# Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club



## Phelan

Welcome to the Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H140X/H240X and Cooler Master Glacer 240L Owners' Club!

*⚠ ATTENTION ⚠
*
If you own an H220X, H140X, or X240X, Swiftech wants to hear your thoughts! Please take the survey in the link below:

*http://www.swiftech.com/survey.aspx*

*Also be sure to post here for a chance to win a brand new H220X!*

It's here!!!

http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx



http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx



http://www.swiftech.com/H320.aspx



http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/glacer/glacer-240l.html



Quote:


> The H220 CPU cooler is an All-In-One (AIO) liquid cooling system focused on low to inaudible operating noise and thermal performance that truly rivals that of custom kits. The product is compatible with most cases supporting dual 120mm or larger radiators. It comes factory pre-filled, completely plug-and-play for installation, and is maintenance-free during its 3 year warranty period.
> 
> The H220 is the result of 3 years of research and development, and it was designed to bridge the gap between entry level All-In-One and custom-built DIY liquid cooling systems. It differentiates itself from other AIO's by its ability to support additional liquid cooled components such as graphics cards, chipset, and/or additional radiator(s) just like a custom-built system.
> 
> Both the pump and the fans are PWM compliant devices, allowing the H220 to be recognized and speed-controlled by the motherboard depending on CPU temperature like any standard CPU cooler. As a bonus, the system includes a PWM splitter allowing connection of up to 8 PWM devices which can then be controlled as one by the motherboard.


Quote:


> Glacer 240L Semi-DIY CPU watercooler, designed in the United States by Swiftech and Cooler Master. Factory filled and sealed to be an All-in-One closed loop cooler or expand the system with standard DIY components. It's your system. Cool it your way.
> 
> High performance expandable system can be upgraded to cool other components.
> Tuned for top performance with a 3500 rpm pump system.
> Performance 240mm radiator is designed for handling high wattage overclocked CPUs.
> Copper waterblock with copper/brass radiator for excellent heat dissipation.
> Factory filled with coolant, then sealed and pressure tested - requires zero maintenance for years.


CPU Platform Compatibility
Intel®Socket LGA 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 and 2011 (will also fit upcoming 1150)
AMD®Socket AM2 (+), AM3 (+), FM1, FM2, 939

___________________________________________________________________________________

Installing LGA 2011 mounting hardware:

Installing AMD mounting Hardware:

Expanding upon the H220 adding a VGA into the loop (Also applicable for the H220X):

EXPANSION NOTE ABOUT THE H220X

The bleed screw had to be made out of a fairly soft material to prevent damage to the acrylic window. This screw should be unscrewed a little to allow for air to bleed out when the kit is being refilled after expansion. Due to the material though users need to be very careful and treat the screw delicately when unscrewing it and screwing it back in. Let me know if there will be any issue to adding this in the OP for the H220-X.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> THIS BLEED SCREW IS TOO FRAGILE FOR THE NEOPHYTE USER (side note: we have already assembled several hundreds at our factory, and I am not getting reports of any breaking screws in assembly...) - WE MADE IT OUT OF POM FOR THE INITIAL LAUNCH BECAUSE THIS AIR BLEEDING FEATURE WAS ADDED LATE AT MY REQUEST - INCIDENTALLY, WE HAVE ALSO OBSERVED THAT SOME KITS (2 OR 3 SO FAR, OUT OF THE FIRST 200) MAY HAVE HAD SOME ACRYLIC SHAVINGS FLOATING IN THE COOLANT THAT WE DIDN'T CATCH AT QC - AGAIN THIS IS FOR THE SAME REASON: ADDING THIS PARTICULAR BLEEDING FEATURE LATE IN THE GAME . THE SHAVING COME FROM TAPING THE BLEED-SCREW HOLE. IF YOU DO SEE ONE, THEN JUST CONTACT US, AND WE'LL EITHER REPLACE YOUR KIT, OR WE WILL SEND YOU COOLANT SO YOU CAN EMPTY IT AND REFILL IT AT YOUR CHOICE - THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN ON THE NEXT PRODUCTION BATCH SINCE WE HAVE ALERTED OUR PRODUCTION CREW.
> 
> BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
> G E N T L E LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY. final note: of course if you break one just let us know, and we'll send you replacement immediately.


__________________________________________________________________________________

NOTICE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you use the included PWM splitter to power your pump, by plugging the pump into channel one and hooking up both the molex/SATA plug and the PWM fan header, EVEN IF the only device you plan to modulate via PWM is the pump itself. More than just an accessory, the splitter is a fail-safe, guaranteeing that the pump always receives the necessary 12v, regardless of fan header settings, as anything less can and will, in an unknown amount of time, damage the pump. Furthermore, it is recommended that you do the same for any other PWM devices you plan to run as well, so that they too receive the necessary 12v constant straight from the PSU. If you cannot modulate the speed of the devices plugged in, in this fashion, then it's either a fan header, motherboard, or BIOS setting issue, or in rare case, the splitter itself.

__________________________________________________________________________________

Known Motherboard incompatibility issues
-Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z AMD 990FX Motherboard - Interference with VR Heatsinks I've been told this can be remedied by sliding the block under the heatsink.
-ASRock Z77E-ITX LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard - Interference with RAM & VGA slots
-ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Dual LGA 2011 Intel C602 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 SSI EEB Intel Motherboard - Interference with Ram slots closest to CPU sockets - Can only use outer RAM slots.

___________________________________________________________________________________

BACKPLATE INSTALLATION HELP

Here's what I found to be the easiest method: BEFORE you remove the plastic cover on the copper and put the TIM on, install the cooler so that the stickies on the backplate seat to the motherboard, then remove the H220 and plastic and install as normal. Alternatively, if you have a backplate that fits your mobo from a previous cooler, test it to see if the H220 screws into it, which 95% of the time it will. If it does, you can use it if you prefer (E.G. Corsair Hxx backplates).

___________________________________________________________________________________

IMPORTANT SERVICE ANOUNCEMENT

"Here at Swiftech what we've been able to determine is that most of the noise that comes from the pump is due to an air bubble getting trapped in it. Here are the steps to remove this air bubble.

First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You'll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You'll also want your pump running while you're doing this.

Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.

If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don't end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.

These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour or more before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water."

_________________________________________________________________________________

Mine:


___________________________________________________________________________________

Form

Members:

link to spreadsheet for easier viewing:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AnYWLa9GjG5tdGNZYnlxMlRjWDBuSzRydjladEp4Q3c&output=html

___________________________________________________________________________________

Add the club in your sig! So we can spread the word and get others involved.

Code:



Code:


[CENTER]♠[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club][B][I]SWIFTECH H220 OWNERS' CLUB[/I][/B][/URL]♠[/CENTER]


----------



## Phelan

temporary supplimental list until above is finalized (please fill out above if you haven't already):
[email protected]
Julsmba
Deeya
SDbolts619
AdamMT
Sikkly
Colforbin
Jchambers2586
Psikeiro
MerkageTurk
justanoldman
msgclb
cashback
byomes
guinner16
witeboy07
TeeBlack
Avonosac
pat102ko
CTM Audi
selk22


----------



## AdamMT

Joined!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Joined!


cool beans! Once you get the unit, just take a pic of it and post it and post it up in this thread and I'll add you







.


----------



## SDBolts619

Add me. Expecting mine tomorrow or Wednesday.


----------



## sikkly

I'll be in on Friday, won't have it in my hands until any earlier.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Sometime this week... I hope


----------



## Avonosac

Whenever my 2 units come in, you'll see one of these babies keeping my titan cool


----------



## oldcompgeek

I apologize as I didn't even know swiftech had clc's yet. Was looking for h2o cooling gen swiftech club.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Snip


No prob







. I may be able to help you troubleshoot. I used to have a Maelstrom as well. Did you buy the unit that's designed to hold a pump? They make a few variations, and thr one I had wasn't designed to hold a pump, and yours from what I can see looks identical to it. Also, the ones that do hold a pump likely only holdthe MCP35X, so you would need a 35X top for your 350. But that last part I'm not 100% sure about.


----------



## CTM Audi

Mine should be here some time this week. Started working on the rest of the coolers in my review.


----------



## Hallengreen

Thinking about buying one and expand it with another radiator. (Later expand to GFX WC) But I could use some help to that, since this will be my "first" actually WB.

I will place the H220 rad in the front with push/pull configuration & the other one should be placed at the top in my FD Arc mini. But the radiator shouldn't be bigger than a Swiftech Rad or H100, because I'm worried that it might interfere with my RAM's.
So i'm thinking about getting a HW-Labs Black Ice - GTS Lite 240 in push/pull also, but would it gain more if I choosed to get a bigger rad and only do pull or push instead of both?

Also I would need some fittings for the new rad? As told I will place it at the top but which fittings to choose? The fittings should turn against the 5,25bay because there's the space to get the tubes routed good.
Also which tubes do I need to get it all working together and with 2 rads I'm gonna need some coolant can you guys recommend something?

Currently I'm having 4x Akasa Apache fans but should I change them to something else?

Hope you guys can help me out a little bit.


----------



## gsk3rd

Ordered mine last night. Should be the last thing for my build.


----------



## Julsmba

I have it since the 25 of february...


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> I have it since the 25 of february...


they finally did it right and the heatsink i lapped from the factory. no thermal paste on it or did you just replace it?!


----------



## Julsmba

no thermal paste on it, they give you a TIM a part.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> they finally did it right and the heatsink i lapped from the factory. no thermal paste on it or did you just replace it?!


If by lapped, you mean a nice shiny reflective surface, then yes. If you mean lapped as in flat, then no. Their coldplate, like many manufactures today, assumes your IHS is concave so the surface of the H220 is slightly convex.


----------



## colforbin

Mine should be here Friday as well. First Time WC! Looking forward to my new money pit.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hallengreen*
> 
> Thinking about buying one and expand it with another radiator. (Later expand to GFX WC) But I could use some help to that, since this will be my "first" actually WB.
> 
> I will place the H220 rad in the front with push/pull configuration & the other one should be placed at the top in my FD Arc mini. But the radiator shouldn't be bigger than a Swiftech Rad or H100, because I'm worried that it might interfere with my RAM's.
> So i'm thinking about getting a HW-Labs Black Ice - GTS Lite 240 in push/pull also, but would it gain more if I choosed to get a bigger rad and only do pull or push instead of both?
> 
> Also I would need some fittings for the new rad? As told I will place it at the top but which fittings to choose? The fittings should turn against the 5,25bay because there's the space to get the tubes routed good.
> Also which tubes do I need to get it all working together and with 2 rads I'm gonna need some coolant can you guys recommend something?
> 
> Currently I'm having 4x Akasa Apache fans but should I change them to something else?
> 
> Hope you guys can help me out a little bit.


I went with another MCR-220-QP for my loop, for the second rad. I got the HydrX coolant concentrate, and I am buying some distilled water locally. For this system you want to get 3/8 ID / 5/8 OD fittings, you can get compression, or barb whichever your preference. I got some of this tubing here.

I'm curious to know if they stealth GT thin rad push pull would be better than the MCR-220-QP, I went with swiftech just to keep things consistent in my prodigy. Let us know how it goes for you.


----------



## byomes

Ordered mine 3/2 and the order status has stayed 'status received' ever since


----------



## Julsmba

Well i really want to add a GPU Block to this loop, but i wonder if it's enough a 120 rad + the H220 rad?
And what do i need to add the gpu to the block?
I am new to Water cooling.


----------



## Avonosac

120 should be enough, but additional 240 should give you much better headroom to overclock the CPU and GPU. The general rule I've read is 120 for every block in your loop, and 120 for additional overhead.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> 120 should be enough, but additional 240 should give you much better headroom to overclock the CPU and GPU. The general rule I've read is 120 for every block in your loop, and 120 for additional overhead.


Thank you, i will do that and then post some pictures here.


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Thank you, i will do that and then post some pictures here.


How are your temps on the 3570k?


----------



## WALSRU

I wanted to join this club but before release I got impatient and bout an H20-220 Elite from Swiftech. I mean, it's almost the same thing right?


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> How are your temps on the 3570k?


Well now i´m with 4.7ghz at 1.25 stable, the hottest core is at 65º


----------



## byomes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Well now i´m with 4.7ghz at 1.25 stable, the hottest core is at 65º


@ 100% load without speedstep?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> @ 100% load without speedstep?


why does without speedstep matter? @ 100%load there won't be any difference between speedstep on or off.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> @ 100% load without speedstep?


yes of course 100% Load...at idle is at 19º the hottest one.


----------



## byomes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> why does without speedstep matter? @ 100%load there won't be any difference between speedstep on or off.


The reason I ask was because I recorded two slightly different temps when i had speedstep on and off.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> The reason I ask was because I recorded two slightly different temps when i had speedstep on and off.


What were your bio's settings? I know some Bio's dont actually allow 100% fan speed. My old MSI z68 board did that, only let me go up to 90% in bios.


----------



## SDBolts619

Oops. Double post. Damn phone.


----------



## SDBolts619

Just got the email that mine shipped today! Looks like I'll have mine by tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do the install tomorrow night.


----------



## Avonosac

-________________________________________________________-

Still hasn't shipped. Ordered mine early on Saturday.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> -________________________________________________________-
> 
> Still hasn't shipped. Ordered mine early on Saturday.


I would send a follow up e-mail to [email protected], just to make sure it didn't fall through the cracks. I order Saturday Night as well, and had a shipped confirmation early yesterday. Good luck.


----------



## Deeya

I'm in.

Mine should be here tomorrow according to tracking information, can't wait.


----------



## justanoldman

Just a suggestion, but since this an owner's thread it will be helpful for people to take pictures once they have it installed. List the case you are using, which motherboard, where you installed it (top, bottom, front), fans (push, pull, push/pull), and did you have to use any brackets or modifications to make it fit.

That way others with your case will know what they will be dealing with if they get it.


----------



## tombom

I'd love to see some pics of this kit set up in all your cases. I'm interested in picking one up eventually.


----------



## witeboy07

My first water cooling also, was shipped today. Should here Friday, video review and install will follow. Should be a good contender against my kraken x60! Proud owner of both. Looking to add my graphics and chipset.


----------



## Avonosac

Anyone who has recently got their shipping order confirmation email, could you PM me your order #? I'm still sitting here confused as to why I don't have mine yet


----------



## witeboy07

I ordered mine on Friday.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> 120 should be enough, but additional 240 should give you much better headroom to overclock the CPU and GPU. The general rule I've read is 120 for every block in your loop, and 120 for additional overhead.


Did someone say...120mm? How about 120mm radiator that's 80mm thick


----------



## justanoldman

Wow, that is thick.

(that's what she said)


----------



## SpykeZ

72 dollars before our promo code is used









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34506


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Did someone say...120mm? How about 120mm radiator that's 80mm thick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha, I wonder how well that thing performs compared to a normal 240 in push pull. I can't imagine using that without push/pull. A decent trade off maybe if you get enough air through it, and you have more cylindrical room and not flat space.

EDIT: Also got an update from Michelle, my order will ship tomorrow... but I think its USPS and my 3 day shipping puts it on Saturday arrival... AAAAARGGG. Probably won't be here until monday, this is killing me.


----------



## SpykeZ

member on here reviewed it

http://www.overclock.net/products/alphacool-nexxxos-monsta-120/reviews/5299


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> 72 dollars before our promo code is used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_1075&products_id=34506


What promo? Only one I know of is 5.1% off FrozenCPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Haha, I wonder how well that thing performs compared to a normal 240 in push pull. I can't imagine using that without push/pull. A decent trade off maybe if you get enough air through it, and you have more cylindrical room and not flat space.
> 
> EDIT: Also got an update from Michelle, my order will ship tomorrow... but I think its USPS and my 3 day shipping puts it on Saturday arrival... AAAAARGGG. Probably won't be here until monday, this is killing me.


If USPS, they only have three methods it could have went. Over night, two day (priority), or 5 day (standard).


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> What promo? Only one I know of is 5.1% off FrozenCPU.
> If USPS, they only have three methods it could have went. Over night, two day (priority), or 5 day (standard).


I looked up the shipping, I picked something from UPS, it was 40$~ so I can't exactly guess what time is on that, it will either be here Saturday for pick up or delivered Monday. Crossing my fingers.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I looked up the shipping, I picked something from UPS, it was 40$~ so I can't exactly guess what time is on that, it will either be here Saturday for pick up or delivered Monday. Crossing my fingers.


I just got my tracking number. Not only was I overcharged on the shipping (I had other stuff in my order removed, so I ended up with only the H220, and on their site said $17 for shipping, but after the partial refund, they charged me $19 something), but its not due to be here until Monday as well. I got a shipment email yesterday, but UPS is saying it didnt go out until today at 7:07 PM.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Anyone who has recently got their shipping order confirmation email, could you PM me your order #? I'm still sitting here confused as to why I don't have mine yet


Looks like they have run out of stock.


----------



## SpykeZ

PM'd you, don't want it pubically displayed on here so non OCN members end up using it.


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Looks like they have run out of stock.


I hope they have enough to fill current orders.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I just got my tracking number. Not only was I overcharged on the shipping (I had other stuff in my order removed, so I ended up with only the H220, and on their site said $17 for shipping, but after the partial refund, they charged me $19 something), but its not due to be here until Monday as well. I got a shipment email yesterday, but UPS is saying it didnt go out until today at 7:07 PM.


Ugh, well looks like I'll be able to focus on more work this weekend instead of playing with my new toys.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Looks like they have run out of stock.


I have already ordered two from early in the weekend


----------



## Emu105

I went to go pull the trigger to finally get it and now there out of stock... wow just my luck greattt..


----------



## AdamMT

Try FrozenCPU or one of the other resellers. They should be getting stock in the next few days.


----------



## WebsterXC

FrozenCPU should be getting stock by the end of this week. If not, then you'll want to check on Monday at the latest


----------



## justanoldman

The where to buy section of the Swiftech site shows the dates that each place is supossed to have them. Several including Frozen are listed as March 11.
http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab6


----------



## Phelan

For anyone that's wondering, I'm planning to make a google spreadsheet to hold the list, but I've never done it before and I've got a lot going on at the moment. But once we have more than 2 people with pictures, I'll move it up in the priority list and get it done







.

Also, I checked and can confirm that the LGA 2011 mounting kit from the Apogee Drive II fits right on this unit no problem. The unit comes with 2011 mounting hardware, but I prefer the look of the hardware for the AD2 because the thumbscrews have much bigger heads







. I used to have an AD2 so I had the hardware sitting here already.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For anyone that's wondering, I'm planning to make a google spreadsheet to hold the list, but I've never done it before and I've got a lot going on at the moment. But once we have more than 2 people with pictures, I'll move it up in the priority list and get it done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also, I checked and can confirm that the LGA 2011 mounting kit from the Apogee Drive II fits right on this unit no problem. The unit comes with 2011 mounting hardware, but I prefer the look of the hardware for the AD2 because the thumbscrews have much bigger heads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I used to have an AD2 so I had the hardware sitting here already.


Good news









As yet they don't make an ITX 2011 board.. But I'm hoping someday they will make one comprised almost entirely of mosfets and sockets, 0 PCB visibile.


----------



## Phelan

For future reference, anybody that likes and prefers the look of the larger thumbscrews on the Apogee Drive II- they will fit on the H220







.


----------



## Phelan

Push/pull!


I still have 4 other Helix fans. Just need 3 more and my other rad







.


----------



## Deeya

Can't seem to figure out these PWM settings :|


----------



## witeboy07

I ordered some noctua's NF-P12-1300 120mm for $65, going to put this on the h220, might leave this on my powercolor 7870, and my kraken ait is on my fx 8320 at 4.4ghz. I dont know, i havent decided!! I get mines next monday!!


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> I ordered some noctua's NF-P12-1300 120mm for $65, going to put this on the h220, might leave this on my powercolor 7870, and my kraken ait is on my fx 8320 at 4.4ghz. I dont know, i havent decided!! I get mines next monday!!


Did you mean P12 or F12?
P12 is a case fan, F12 is for use on a rad.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Did you mean P12 or F12?
> P12 is a case fan, F12 is for use on a rad.


P12's work just fine for radiators. They aren't the best but they're dead silent. I used 2 on my H50 for years and was fine. However, I'd honestly recommend using Cougar Vortex's. They push more air, better static pressure, cheaper and just as quiet


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't seem to figure out these PWM settings :|


I'd recommend fitting the pump to one PWM header and the fans on the splitter on the other header, if you aren't running it that way already. The pump speed never has to be about 60% if you're using it as a CLC







.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> P12's work just fine for radiators. They aren't the best but they're dead silent. I used 2 on my H50 for years and was fine. However, I'd honestly recommend using Cougar Vortex's. They push more air, better static pressure, cheaper and just as quiet


This is a good deal, i couldnt overpass, the f12's would have been more!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> This is a good deal, i couldnt overpass, the f12's would have been more!


well like I said, they aren't bad. I used them and was able to hit 4GHz with my 965 @ 1.5v and this was using an H50. They push enough air if you do push/pull that'll you'll be satisfied, but you could always do better down the road.


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I'd recommend fitting the pump to one PWM header and the fans on the splitter on the other header, if you aren't running it that way already. The pump speed never has to be about 60% if you're using it as a CLC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I can't seem to set percentages for PWM in my BIOS. I do have the pump on CPU_FAN and the splitter connected to SYSFAN_3.

Here's some BIOS pics:


----------



## colforbin

Have you tried to hook it up like Swiftech suggested? Pump on channel 1 of splitter, fans on the other available slots. All into the cpu header.


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Have you tried to hook it up like Swiftech suggested? Pump on channel 1 of splitter, fans on the other available slots. All into the cpu header.


Yeah, the fans get super loud ike this though and constantly speed at just shy of 1800 RPM, even idle with temps in the low 30s.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Yeah, the fans get super loud ike this though and constantly speed at just shy of 1800 RPM, even idle with temps in the low 30s.


From Swiftech website:

"All the devices connected to my splitter work at 100% but I cannot vary their speed"
Check that the splitter mini-4 pin PWM signal cable is correctly connected to the CPU_Fan connector of the motherboard
Enable "Manual Fan Control" in the motherboard BIOS

By the way I am sure you have tried this too.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> If there's a manual option in BIOS, try that. Also, I would download Speedfan and try it. I've used it for my GPU before and like it a lot.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> I ordered some noctua's NF-P12-1300 120mm for $65, going to put this on the h220, might leave this on my powercolor 7870, and my kraken ait is on my fx 8320 at 4.4ghz. I dont know, i havent decided!! I get mines next monday!!


How many did you get? The NF-F12s are down to $19.50 with prime shipping on Amazon.

What's this forum policy about linking to other sites for reviews? I started my review on eocf, can I link it, or do I need to make a thread here too?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> How many did you get? The NF-F12s are down to $19.50 with prime shipping on Amazon.
> 
> What's this forum policy about linking to other sites for reviews? I started my review on eocf, can I link it, or do I need to make a thread here too?


It's a no-no...


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> I can't seem to set percentages for PWM in my BIOS. I do have the pump on CPU_FAN and the splitter connected to SYSFAN_3.


The PWM splitter needs to be plugged into CPU_FAN and plug your pump into Channel 1 on the PWM splitter provided. The Fans should be connected to Channel 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 any of those. You will not be able to see the speed of your fans, but this should enable control of everything connected to the splitter that is 4pin PWM capable.

With your pump plugged directly into your motherboard, only your pump can be controlled AND your pump is drawing power from the motherboard. You need to control the entire splitter including the pump, so the splitter needs to be plugged into CPU_FAN and everthing you want to control plugged into the splitter channels. The other benefit is everything draws power from the PSU molex, so no stressing your motherboard fan headers. The only thing it takes from the Motherboard is the PWM signal and sends one RPM signal back. All power then comes from the PSU which is good.

The way you have it now, the fans are being controller by the "SysFan3" in your bios which probably doesn't allow thermal throttling. Some motherboards may have the ability to control their SYS channels, but pretty much all have the ability to at least control the PWM signal output on CPU_FAN so you should use that as your first place to try.

You will have to play around with the BIOS setting a bit, but use the splitter to run everything first and plug the splitter into the CPU_FAN channel. i would probably try AUTO and set a temperature slightly higher than your idle temp an experiment a little.

One more thing on the PWM splitter. Channel 1 is the only channel that will read RPM back to the motherboard. If you want to see the pump speed, plug the pump into channel 1, If you want to see the fan speeds, plug one of the fans into channel 1. It really doesn't matter what channel something is plugged into except channel 1 is the only one to provide RPM feedback to the motherboard since you can't "SPLIT" RPM signal. You could potentially make a little jumper yellow RPM lead from the fans or pump to another motherboard header to read those RPM signals as well and still retain PWM control, but that would take a mod to do and not possible without building the jumper yourself. In reality, you really don't need to see both pump and RPM signal, so I would suggest just using the kit as is and plug the pump into channel 1 to see pump speed. 3000RPM is full speed and 1200RPM is lowest speed.


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If there's a manual option in BIOS, try that. Also, I would download Speedfan and try it. I've used it for my GPU before and like it a lot.


I have CPU Fan set to PWM and Manual selected. The fans are still loud and hum... maybe I just got some bad fans.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It's a no-no...


So can I make a thread here too, or do they want exclusive rights or something?
Thought I read someone else say that before.


----------



## ez12a

I have mine...




a few notes for installation in my rig and on the P8Z68:

1. Mount the pump like shown in picture, or you'll have to grind down the VRM sinks for a proper mount as the left barb/tube will rest on the sink, and depending on how wide your ram heat spreaders are, the right barb/tube may put pressure on them.

2. the rear back plate is easy to come out of position when mounting. I put a folded cloth behind the mobo when I laid the computer down to keep pressure on the backplate. I would probably think painter's tape would work just as well. I still had problems even with the adhesive keeping the backplate on.

3. the tubes have to come out towards the rear on the P8Z68 and 600T, the block of USB ports on the rear will get in the way unless you mod or do a non-standard mount of the rad.

4. Extremely little clearance in the 600t and mobo with the 8 pin CPU socket/plug.

other than that, it's an absolutely fantastic cooler. Definitely at least 3C better than the h100i i had before.

1hr of prime95:


----------



## AdamMT

I guess you're planning on mounting the fans on top of the case?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I guess you're planning on mounting the fans on top of the case?


Correct, it's absolutely necessary if no modifications are done.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Correct, it's absolutely necessary if no modifications are done.


Sure looks that way.







I think I'm going to have to go that way, too, with my Fractal R4 and Sabertooth X79. Should get my unit tomorrow. I'll post my results when I find out.

Do you have a shroud or bracket to cover the fans, or are they just going au nautrale?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Sure looks that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to have to go that way, too, with my Fractal R4 and Sabertooth X79. Should get my unit tomorrow. I'll post my results when I find out.
> 
> Do you have a shroud or bracket to cover the fans, or are they just going au nautrale?


600t has a removable mesh that hides the fans but it definitely makes them louder. I'm probably going to go the way of painted 120mm finger guards and leave the mesh off.


----------



## WALSRU

Can I join?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 600t has a removable mesh that hides the fans but it definitely makes them louder. I'm probably going to go the way of painted 120mm finger guards and leave the mesh off.


Okay, but as far as the the fan sides, they're just going to be exposed, right? Nothing wrong with that from a functional standpoint. I've been looking for an after-market cover but can't seem to find anything. Thought of having one made (3D printing) that would mount to my case's outter holes, which I guess are 140mm fan holes. Here's the preliminary model/render:


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> Can I join?


I know you know that I know you don't have a H220.









I just received a package that I ordered Monday. Unfortunately this one came from East Rochester, NY. (FrozenCPU)

My H220 will be here tomorrow via UPS.


----------



## TheTingez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> The PWM splitter needs to be plugged into CPU_FAN and plug your pump into Channel 1 on the PWM splitter provided. The Fans should be connected to Channel 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 any of those. You will not be able to see the speed of your fans, but this should enable control of everything connected to the splitter that is 4pin PWM capable.
> 
> With your pump plugged directly into your motherboard, only your pump can be controlled AND your pump is drawing power from the motherboard. You need to control the entire splitter including the pump, so the splitter needs to be plugged into CPU_FAN and everthing you want to control plugged into the splitter channels. The other benefit is everything draws power from the PSU molex, so no stressing your motherboard fan headers. The only thing it takes from the Motherboard is the PWM signal and sends one RPM signal back. All power then comes from the PSU which is good.
> 
> The way you have it now, the fans are being controller by the "SysFan3" in your bios which probably doesn't allow thermal throttling. Some motherboards may have the ability to control their SYS channels, but pretty much all have the ability to at least control the PWM signal output on CPU_FAN so you should use that as your first place to try.
> 
> You will have to play around with the BIOS setting a bit, but use the splitter to run everything first and plug the splitter into the CPU_FAN channel. i would probably try AUTO and set a temperature slightly higher than your idle temp an experiment a little.
> 
> One more thing on the PWM splitter. Channel 1 is the only channel that will read RPM back to the motherboard. If you want to see the pump speed, plug the pump into channel 1, If you want to see the fan speeds, plug one of the fans into channel 1. It really doesn't matter what channel something is plugged into except channel 1 is the only one to provide RPM feedback to the motherboard since you can't "SPLIT" RPM signal. You could potentially make a little jumper yellow RPM lead from the fans or pump to another motherboard header to read those RPM signals as well and still retain PWM control, but that would take a mod to do and not possible without building the jumper yourself. In reality, you really don't need to see both pump and RPM signal, so I would suggest just using the kit as is and plug the pump into channel 1 to see pump speed. 3000RPM is full speed and 1200RPM is lowest speed.


Great post Martin. All the info you need there to set the H220 up correctly ... Thanks


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Okay, but as far as the the fan sides, they're just going to be exposed, right? Nothing wrong with that from a functional standpoint. I've been looking for an after-market cover but can't seem to find anything. Thought of having one made (3D printing) that would mount to my case's outter holes, which I guess are 140mm fan holes. Here's the preliminary model/render:


that is a sweet idea. Keep us updated. I wish I had a 3d printer or an extra mesh, then i'd just cut out holes for the two fans.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> I know you know that I know you don't have a H220.


It's so close though, the pump is of a similar design and the radiator is pretty much identical. I mean really, honorary member status?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> It's so close though, the pump is of a similar design and the radiator is pretty much identical. I mean really, honorary member status?


NO CLUB FOR YOU.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that is a sweet idea. Keep us updated. I wish I had a 3d printer or an extra mesh, then i'd just cut out holes for the two fans.


I don't actually own a 3D printer but there are services where you can upload your models and they'll print it for you ... for a cost, of course. I've never tried it before but I've been waiting for an excuse. I know of at least one place (Shapeways) that allows you to set up a shop where anyone can order a print of your model. Maybe I'll do that if it works out. My real hope is that I can cram the whole thing inside my case.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I don't actually own a 3D printer but there are services where you can upload your models and they'll print it for you ... for a cost, of course. I've never tried it before but I've been waiting for an excuse. I know of at least one place (Shapeways) that allows you to set up a shop where anyone can order a print of your model. Maybe I'll do that if it works out. My real hope is that I can cram the whole thing inside my case.


I was thinking about this for my prodigy. A nice little cage on top so I can have the fans for push/pull on my the H220, and just have push for the front intake MCR-220-QP.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> NO CLUB FOR YOU.


HEART BROKEN


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> HEART BROKEN


It's ok, we will still have nearly identical prodigys to talk about


----------



## sikkly

Tomorrow can't come soon enough. Having my h220 sitting at home where I can't access it is so painful! My new case(also at home) and cooler must be feeling so lonely without the rest of their guts!


----------



## MerkageTurk

I just ordered one,Sending my H100i back for a full refund from Amazon as i faced lots of problems.


----------



## SDBolts619

Yeehaw. Tracking shows my H220 is out for delivery! And sadly, my daughter is home sick today - if she's not better by tomorrow, I have to take a sick day to stay home with her since my wife has a big meeting for work tomorrow. Would it be wrong to hope that she's just a little to sick to go to school tomorrow?


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Yeehaw. Tracking shows my H220 is out for delivery! And sadly, my daughter is home sick today - if she's not better by tomorrow, I have to take a sick day to stay home with her since my wife has a big meeting for work tomorrow. Would it be wrong to hope that she's just a little to sick to go to school tomorrow?


"Think she has a bad case of the H220 Bug teacher"...."Should be fine by Monday!"


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> "Think she has a bad case of the H220 Bug teacher"...."Should be fine by Monday!"


Just a little dehydrated. Need to get some fluids in her.


----------



## Thrasher1016

So I have what potentially may be a stupid question...

Is anyone going the route wherein they plug the pump into CPU_FAN header (as is the prevailing best choice) and then running fans off a 3rd party fan controller?

Just checking.









Thanks - T


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> So I have what potentially may be a stupid question...
> 
> Is anyone going the route wherein they plug the pump into CPU_FAN header (as is the prevailing best choice) and then running fans off a 3rd party fan controller?
> 
> Just checking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I think that would be a monumentally bad idea. Unless the 3rd party controller is true PWM. I guess it could be a good way to hide your wires for the fans, cable management is a pain. Realistically, its just PWM fans, with a PWM splitter, you can configure them like anything else. There is no rule that says radiator fans need to be plugged into x port for power or control.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I think that would be a monumentally bad idea. Unless the 3rd party controller is true PWM. I guess it could be a good way to hide your wires for the fans, cable management is a pain. Realistically, its just PWM fans, with a PWM splitter, you can configure them like anything else. There is no rule that says radiator fans need to be plugged into x port for power or control.


Yeah, prob. not the best idea... I was thinking more along the lines of running fans at higher RPM and letting the pump self-regulate, but that's not advised here? I'm not speaking of PWM fans, FYI... I was talking about something aftermarket, if there were to be a fan swap.

I'm not going to be doing this however, mainly for the reason that I want the management that the PWM offers, but also because I'd probably break it.







Honesty helps....

Thanks - T


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Yeah, prob. not the best idea... I was thinking more along the lines of running fans at higher RPM and letting the pump self-regulate, but that's not advised here? I'm not speaking of PWM fans, FYI... I was talking about something aftermarket, if there were to be a fan swap.
> 
> I'm not going to be doing this however, mainly for the reason that I want the management that the PWM offers, but also because I'd probably break it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honesty helps....
> 
> Thanks - T


Haha, well if you're starting to work with other fans / fan controllers and not using PWM you can be really creative with how you set your system up. It sounded to me like you were going to just take the Helix fans and putting them on a controller which weren't going to be PWM. It has already been shown this is a bad idea.

Also, the pump self regulating, isn't really necessary. If you browse a lot through the water cooling section, you'll see that past a certain point (looked like ~ 65-70% on the test loops I've seen in the news thread), temperatures don't drop by adding more flow. Each loop will of course have its own sweetspot where additional power through the pump, will not result in lower temperatures. Once you hit that point on your loop I don't see a purpose in going much higher, you're using more power and making more noise for no gain. This is the primary reason I will be putting my pump on CPU_1 header, and the fan splitter on the CASE_FAN1 header. I can modulate the fans, while keeping the pump relatively independent.


----------



## ez12a

My unboxing video is up (not that it's anything you havent seen before):


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Haha, well if you're starting to work with other fans / fan controllers and not using PWM you can be really creative with how you set your system up. It sounded to me like you were going to just take the Helix fans and putting them on a controller which weren't going to be PWM. It has already been shown this is a bad idea.
> 
> Also, the pump self regulating, isn't really necessary. If you browse a lot through the water cooling section, you'll see that past a certain point (looked like ~ 65-70% on the test loops I've seen in the news thread), temperatures don't drop by adding more flow. Each loop will of course have its own sweetspot where additional power through the pump, will not result in lower temperatures. Once you hit that point on your loop I don't see a purpose in going much higher, you're using more power and making more noise for no gain. This is the primary reason I will be putting my pump on CPU_1 header, and the fan splitter on the CASE_FAN1 header. I can modulate the fans, while keeping the pump relatively independent.


Yeah, guess if I'd payed any attention to what I typed... I would have noticed I didn't say CPU_1!
I've been following this and the other H220 thread since WAY back, so I've seen all the nightmares about putting fans that didn't belong in the wrong places, etc...















It was just a curiousity, since I have a brand new Lamptron 6-way rheobus at home, and I want to use it, but with what looks like only three case fans going into the new CaseLabs S3 Mercury when I build it, it seems a waste like that...
I think I'll mess with the Helixes on their splitter first, then maybe fiddle with the idea of swaps later...









Thanks - T


----------



## witeboy07

So with this cooler, can we replace the tubing with clear tubing?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> So with this cooler, can we replace the tubing with clear tubing?


Yes. Any tubing color you like. As long as it is the right size. I.D. 3/8" O.D. 5/8"


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> So I have what potentially may be a stupid question...
> 
> Is anyone going the route wherein they plug the pump into CPU_FAN header (as is the prevailing best choice) and then running fans off a 3rd party fan controller?
> 
> Just checking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


It's what I am doing right now. I have the pump set to the CPU_FAN connector then I replaced the fans and all 4 are connected to my fan controller. Temps seem to be great. Hovering around 58 in prime95 and peaking around 62. This is with my 3570k OCed to 4.4 Ghz and vCore at 1.215

Obviously adjusting the fans as needed. I can't set actual PWM percentages in my BIOS and this gives me more control. Still a great product.


----------



## spikexp

Mine should come when ncix get it, and my Helix 120 (2pwm and 2voltage) will be coming next week.


----------



## Dmz96

Has anyone replaced the tubing/know if it is possible? What OD/ID tubing is it?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the tubing/know if it is possible? What OD/ID tubing is it?


It's 3/8" inner 5/8" outer tubing and it's definitely replaceable. The system is designed for expansion.


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> It's 3/8" inner 5/8" outer tubing and it's definitely replaceable. The system is designed for expansion.


SWEEEEEET - Let's get some Orange Mayhems in there


----------



## SDBolts619

Got mine today and skipped dinner to fabricate my adapter for my RV02 case... Sorry, can't find my regular camera right now, so no really good pix and no pix of the adapter itself, but you can see the Lexan in both pics to the left of the H220 radiator. Would be nice to make it on a 3d printer where all the edges could be perfect, but given that I was working with a drill press and jigsaw (with Plexiglass blades in any case) it worked out pretty good. The H220 is screwed into the adapter and the screws are recessed into the adapter so they're pretty much flush. Then the adapter is screwed into the 180mm case fans.





No overclock yet, but an hour of P95 (and 3DMark11 at the same time because I meant to exit P95, but minimized it instead and then rean 3DMark - yeah, I'm an idiot at times) and I haven't seen north of 57 degrees.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Got mine today and skipped dinner to fabricate my adapter for my RV02 case... Sorry, can't find my regular camera right now, so no really good pix and no pix of the adapter itself, but you can see the Lexan in both pics to the left of the H220 radiator. Would be nice to make it on a 3d printer where all the edges could be perfect, but given that I was working with a drill press and jigsaw (with Plexiglass blades in any case) it worked out pretty good. The H220 is screwed into the adapter and the screws are recessed into the adapter so they're pretty much flush. Then the adapter is screwed into the 180mm case fans.
> 
> No overclock yet, but an hour of P95 (and 3DMark11 at the same time because I meant to exit P95, but minimized it instead and then rean 3DMark - yeah, I'm an idiot at times) and I haven't seen north of 57 degrees.


nice! what temps were you getting with your Cooler Master (i see in your sig)?


----------



## SDBolts619

The CM was hitting 69 or so on P95 stock. I'm working to get a stable overclock right now - currently at 4.7ghz, 1.35 Vcore, 1.65 CPU PLL. Ran 3DMark11, max temp of 69. Did a short P95 run and was maxing out at 78.


----------



## MerkageTurk

I ordered my one yester wil probarbly get it tommorow


----------



## ez12a

my experience/install video posted:


----------



## Dmz96

Can anyone tell me the width and the height of the cpu block? I don't see it on swiftech's page :/

Edit: To be a bit more specific, these dimensions:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the width and the height of the cpu block? I don't see it on swiftech's page :/
> 
> Edit: To be a bit more specific, these dimensions:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I asked about the height earlier in the thread, with the removable plate its 56 mm tall. No clue about width, sorry.


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> I asked about the height earlier in the thread, with the removable plate its 56 mm tall. No clue about width, sorry.


That's one dimension, thanks! Now just the width, hmm...


----------



## BramSLI1

Does having one on my work computer count?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> That's one dimension, thanks! Now just the width, hmm...


The width is 62mm.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

So sad. I want to join too. Can a hopeful join?
Have to wait, had to buy a laptop. Old one died badly and no warranty left.
Plus spring break is coming, so 3 week vacation comes first.


----------



## ironhide138

So I know people are just getting these now, but has anyone expanded one yet? added in a GPU or somthing? Changed the (ugly imo) tubes?


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The width is 62mm.


Sweet, thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> So I know people are just getting these now, but has anyone expanded one yet? added in a GPU or somthing? Changed the (ugly imo) tubes?


Gabe and I just finished shooting the expansion video showing how to add a single water cooled GPU into the loop. He's editing it now and it should be up shortly.


----------



## sikkly

I'll be breaking down my computer and putting it in its new home, with the h220, in around in hour. Pretty excited, it's been sitting doing nothing since Wednesday.

Hoping I can find a somewhat cheap 570 block sometime soon so I can expand the loop to include my GPU, I'm just not willing to spend 80 bucks for a new one when that is half the cost of the GPU, and I probably won't have the GPU for more than another 8 months.

Edit:
So got my H220 installed, after some unexpected difficulties with transferring my computer to it's new case(I'll just say the old CPU cooler refused to go down quietly...)

running P/P intake helix fans at full bore, pump at full bore as well, 2600k at 1.4 volts, ambient temps of about 25.5 degrees, Prime got the CPU up to 61 degrees a relatively short test, under half an hour. Idling at 33 degrees or so.

My application of the thermal paste sucked, but I am just to tired to reapply today. I'll reapply properly tomorrow and test with actual proper length tests. Also going to leave Prime running all night, just to see temps with crappily applied paste compared to proper applied paste when I reapply it.

My first experience with the tubing, it wasn't to bad to work with. Flexed any which way I wanted it, and the swivels worked well. The back plate sticky things ended up not sticking to well, but it wasn't too big of an issue. I honestly would have been slightly surprised if they did.

Haven't played around with pump speeds yet. My plan for fan control didn't work out, so my fans are all currently running at full blast, and I can't hear the pump over the sound of all of them. Also can't say much about sound, because of the same issue. With 6 helix fans and 3 fractal fans on the system running at full blast I just can't tell what effect the h220 would have on its own.

Tomorrow or Sunday I'll report back with a little bit better info, just figured I'd share preliminary results. Also, the Arc Midi 2 is insane. A 60mm rad with p/p would go in without a hitch. I have over an inch of space between the rad and the mobo, unless you have some extremely high ram heatsinks pretty much any 240 rad will clear all components a mobo.


----------



## colforbin

Can I put the pump so the in and out tubes are north/south.....having an issue with my first RAM slot east/west?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Can I put the pump so the in and out tubes are north/south.....having an issue with my first RAM slot east/west?


Yes you can. I have mine in the same way, the Inlet is at the top and the Outlet is at the bottom.

I get some minor water trickling noise if the pump's running at full speed, but I think that's because I have the reservoir mounted upside down so the air gets circulated. If you mount the radiator with the fill port up you probably wont have a problem.


----------



## AdamMT

Here's the H220 mounted in my Fractal R4, with the fans mounted on top of the case. Unfortunately I'm having to RMA the H220 as the pump doesn't work, but thought the pics might be of interest. Board is the Sabertooth X79.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Here's the H220 mounted in my Fractal R4, with the fans mounted on top of the case. Unfortunately I'm having to RMA the H220 as the pump doesn't work, but thought the pics might be of interest. Board is the Sabertooth X79.


What you mean the pump is not working? Why not mount it up front instead and move the HDD cage towards the power supply.
You one HDD, so you can mount in in the 5.25" ODD bay or secure to floor of case with the dampening pads.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What you mean the pump is not working? Why not mount it up front instead and move the HDD cage towards the power supply.
> You one HDD, so you can mount in in the 5.25" ODD bay or secure to floor of case with the dampening pads.


Pump is not working, as in, it is completely dead. It happens. Disappointed, of course, but Swiftech kindly agreed to ship out a new unit immediately and provide return shipping -- you can't ask more than that.

I thought about mounting the HD in the 5.25" bay. Bit of a hassle, though, as I'd have to remove the motherboard to install the SSD on the back side, and Fractal doesn't include a 5.25" to 3.5" adapter. And there's no airflow in the 5.25" bays, so not an ideal HDD location. Moving the lower drive cage is an even bigger hassle as you have to disassemble most of the case to get to the lower screws. Even then, the moved bay would block airflow from the lower fan and jam up the PSU cables.

So basically, top mounting the fans is the path of least resistance, and I'm lazy.


----------



## jrccomputer

Will this fit in an NZXT Phantom 410??? If so how can I go about putting it in that case??? If anyone here has done it please let me know.\

Thanks


----------



## sikkly

Won't have a chance to reapply the thermal paste this afternoon, but here's my proof so I can join!

Tomorrow hopefully I'll have time to get the reapply the paste and get proper tests going.


----------



## colforbin




----------



## Phelan

I'm seeing a lot of NICE rigs! Keep 'em coming! I'm on vacation in Colorado at the moment, but I WILL get the list up and running soon and everyone on it







.


----------



## jchambers2586

Add me to the club. This is by far the best damn cooler I have ever used 26c temp drop. was 91c now 65c 3570K 4.5 GHZ,


----------



## [email protected]

May I join







?

Thought I'd also post here the video we released yesterday.






I'd also like to ask club members to post any data you may have with liquid cooled graphics card installed (using only the dual 120mm rad included with the kit).

There are guys out there stubbornly recommending against it, and I'm tired of arguing, so we really need real life user data to show these guys what this kit can actually do 

Thanks in advance!

Note: forgive me in advance for possibly sporadic appearances.. I'm a bz guy. But I'm sure Bryan will pick-up the slack if I can't always personally answer your questions


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> May I join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I'd also like to ask club members to post any data you may have with liquid cooled graphics card installed (using only the dual 120mm rad included with the kit).
> 
> There are guys out there stubbornly recommending against it, and I'm tired of arguing, so we really need real life user data to show these guys what this kit can actually do
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Note: forgive me in advance for possibly sporadic appearances.. I'm a bz guy. But I'm sure Bryan will pick-up the slack if I can't always personally answer your questions


Absolutely! I'll get you on top of the list







. I'll fire up the laptop and see if I can get that spreadsheet done this evening. If not I'll just manually list out all the names for now.

Also, I have a Komodo block as well so once I get my rig going in my test setup I'll test with and without the GPU in the loop and post them here







.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> May I join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Thought I'd also post here the video we released yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also like to ask club members to post any data you may have with liquid cooled graphics card installed (using only the dual 120mm rad included with the kit).
> 
> There are guys out there stubbornly recommending against it, and I'm tired of arguing, so we really need real life user data to show these guys what this kit can actually do
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Note: forgive me in advance for possibly sporadic appearances.. I'm a bz guy. But I'm sure Bryan will pick-up the slack if I can't always personally answer your questions


Any plans for any 680 Lightning blocks????


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Any plans for any 680 Lightning blocks????


Swiftech has an exclusive deal with EVGA to make Nvidia Komodo/Epsilon blocks with EVGA's logo instead of their own for their cards only, and the Lightning 680 doesn't fall in that category. You can however get an MCR82 uniblock and add some VRM heatsinks though







.


----------



## psikeiro

http://imgur.com/qUJsH


----------



## darko84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qUJsH


Beautiful rig


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> May I join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Thought I'd also post here the video we released yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also like to ask club members to post any data you may have with liquid cooled graphics card installed (using only the dual 120mm rad included with the kit).
> 
> There are guys out there stubbornly recommending against it, and I'm tired of arguing, so we really need real life user data to show these guys what this kit can actually do
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Note: forgive me in advance for possibly sporadic appearances.. I'm a bz guy. But I'm sure Bryan will pick-up the slack if I can't always personally answer your questions


I see Bryan doing a lot of work on a system, but do you have one in any of your personal boxes?









As for the GPU, I think I have exactly what you need. I am going to be putting my 955be and 580 HydroGen under water with just the single rad that comes with the H220 unit. I was only planning on putting Push fans as intake into the unit, but if you WANT.. you could send me 2 more PWM helix and I could add Push/pull data for you


----------



## MerkageTurk

my swiftechs h220 Radiator had bent fins,


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> my swiftechs h220 Radiator had bent fins,


Toothpicks work pretty good at taking care of that







.


----------



## MerkageTurk

or could RMA as it came yesterday but weont have a decent pc


----------



## Phelan

BTW guys, I'm in touch with one of the editors so that we can make this club official, since we have 10 members now







. Don't forget to post a pic of your H220 so I can add you to the club! I'm still trying to figure out how to do a Google spreadsheet, so in the meantime all the names are simply listed as normal.


----------



## jrccomputer

Will this fit in an NZXT Phantom 410??? If so how can I go about putting it in that case??? If anyone here has done it please let me know.\

Thanks


----------



## MerkageTurk

here is the bent fins, add me to the club


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I see Bryan doing a lot of work on a system, but do you have one in any of your personal boxes?


I don't have an H220 in my own system, but Gabe is using the one from CES that had triple rads and a CrossFire set up.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Wow Swiftech rep just responded to me; Thank you Bryan however I will not be RMA as a love the unit and temps seem fine with 4.6ghz overclock with a max temp of 42C; and when a 360 rad comes out than i will just swap the rad.

Thank you again


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrccomputer*
> 
> Will this fit in an NZXT Phantom 410??? If so how can I go about putting it in that case??? If anyone here has done it please let me know.\
> 
> Thanks


Judging from the photos on NZXT's site, you should be able to fit the H220 up top. You may have to remove the fans and mount them on top of the case under the plastic panel, with the res facing downward, but that's mainly just dependant on the size of the heatsinks on your motherboard. Smaller heatsinks should be able to fit the H220 in it's recommended position.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> BTW guys, I'm in touch with one of the editors so that we can make this club official, since we have 10 members now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't forget to post a pic of your H220 so I can add you to the club! I'm still trying to figure out how to do a Google spreadsheet, so in the meantime all the names are simply listed as normal.


Have to love the colors of Noctua:


----------



## jrccomputer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Judging from the photos on NZXT's site, you should be able to fit the H220 up top. You may have to remove the fans and mount them on top of the case under the plastic panel, with the res facing downward, but that's mainly just dependant on the size of the heatsinks on your motherboard. Smaller heatsinks should be able to fit the H220 in it's recommended position.


Thank you! I have been looking for an answer to this question.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Wow Swiftech rep just responded to me; Thank you Bryan however I will not be RMA as a love the unit and temps seem fine with 4.6ghz overclock with a max temp of 42C; and when a 360 rad comes out than i will just swap the rad.
> 
> Thank you again


They have an MCR320-QP-RES available now if you want to switch out the rad. Only diff is that you'll have to use G1/4 fittings (barbs or comps) instead of having swivel fittings.


----------



## msgclb

Here's my H220 installed in my C70 case.



I used the larger fan screws and rubbers provided with the C70 or the H220 would have ended up on the floor of the case.


----------



## cashback

Here is my entry into the club H220 installed in a 650D:


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darko84*
> 
> Beautiful rig


thanks, had to switch from intake push to exhaust push, getting about the same temps but my video cards idle at about 6c lower this way.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> They have an MCR320-QP-RES available now if you want to switch out the rad. Only diff is that you'll have to use G1/4 fittings (barbs or comps) instead of having swivel fittings.


They are also thicker. It seems everyone keeps thinking the rad in the h220 is the same as the MCR series, but it is thinner.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> They are also thicker. It seems everyone keeps thinking the rad in the h220 is the same as the MCR series, but it is thinner.


True, the rad is I mentioned is about 3mm thicker due to the extra spacing for the fan screws. Functionally though this isn't a difference except in a few situations with fitment.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> True, the rad is I mentioned is about 3mm thicker due to the extra spacing for the fan screws. Functionally though this isn't a difference except in a few situations with fitment.


Its 5mm, 29vs34. I only mention it because oddly enough for a lot of cases that 5mm is the difference of fitting or not. A lot of cases have from 50mm to 55mm from roof to top of mobo PCB.

On my phone, not trying to sound short or mean.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> True, the rad is I mentioned is about 3mm thicker due to the extra spacing for the fan screws. Functionally though this isn't a difference except in a few situations with fitment.


Its 5mm, 29vs34. I only mention it because oddly enough for a lot of cases that 5mm is the difference of fitting or not. A lot of cases have from 50mm to 55mm from roof to top of mobo PCB.

On my phone, not trying to sound short or mean.


----------



## Avonosac

I though the rad was essentially the MCR-220-QP but slightly larger frame to take care of the res. Are you saying it is not?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I though the rad was essentially the MCR-220-QP but slightly larger frame to take care of the res. Are you saying it is not?


It's core is the same as the MCR220-QP-RES, but with swivel barbs instead of G1/4 ports, and shorter shroud on one side to help with fitment in cases. You can still install fans on that side but you'll likely have to use shorter screws.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I though the rad was essentially the MCR-220-QP but slightly larger frame to take care of the res. Are you saying it is not?


The design of the main part is the same, but the thickness is different by 5mm.
I was just saying don't buy an MCR-220QP-Res and expect it to be "the same" as the size is different. Maybe Gabe can say if there are any other difference aside from the thickness in the other H220 thread.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> The design of the main part is the same, but the thickness is different by 5mm.
> I was just saying don't buy an MCR-220QP-Res and expect it to be "the same" as the size is different. Maybe Gabe can say if there are any other difference aside from the thickness in the other H220 thread.


My comment above came from Bryan and Gabe's comments in the H220 thread. The thickness difference is because the fan shroud on one end was shortened for the same reason you mentioned-fitting it into cases. It was an oversight for me to not mention this in my first response. The very noticeable difference is the swivel barbs rather than G1/4" ports. There is one other difference that I didn't mention, but it is another fine detail. Swiftech moved the water pipes from under the fan screws, so that even if you over-tighten a screw into the rad, the rad will still function as normal and not leak.


----------



## witeboy07

Can't wait to get mines, coming today!!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## McBerto

Anyone know which retailer that has the h220 in stock? Been looking everywhere~


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McBerto*
> 
> Anyone know which retailer that has the h220 in stock? Been looking everywhere~


I ordered mine from Sidewinder last night, they had only 2 in stock before I ordered.. Hurry!!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## byomes

Ordered mine 3/2/13 and look what just came in


----------



## Avonosac

I should have mine tomorrow :| They will be unboxed but likely just AIOs until at least the weekend.


----------



## Klubhead

Mine should be here in a few days.. Any advice where to put the PWM splitter in a HAF 932 case? Can it fit behind the mobo side panel? (looks like that's where they have it on swiftech's site)

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Mine should be here in a few days.. Any advice where to put the PWM splitter in a HAF 932 case? Can it fit behind the mobo side panel? (looks like that's where they have it on swiftech's site)
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


yes


----------



## CTM Audi

Mine came today, but my case wont be here until tomorrow


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Mine came today, but my case wont be here until tomorrow


Slap hands for the shipping tease :| This wait is killing me.


----------



## AdamMT

FYI, after playing around a little more I discovered that I can get the whole unit inside my Fractal R4 w/ Sabertooth X79 with the fans mounted on the bottom of the radiator and the tubes facing the back of the case. It just fits using the offset 120mm fan holes on the top panel.


----------



## pat102ko

I agree with AdamMT.. I just got my unit today, so ill post a photo later but it was a little bit tricky getting it inside the R4. I have an asrock z77 extreme 4 mobo but it really came down to having to use the offset 120mm fan holes.


----------



## witeboy07

Finally got mine like 3 hours ago. Got it all set up. Couldn't fit the fans on the bottom so I put then on top of the case. Haven't tested it yet, review video coming soon!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## guinner16

just got mine in my first ever build. Hope to have everything up and running tomorrow. Did a little customizing before putting it in.


----------



## ez12a

Phelan, I made a quick google docs spreadsheet and form to fill out information. This can either be used as an idea or actually used for the club, doesnt matter to me lol.

Example form:
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/112ZmcCpR0sX8qPf5Bs7sJz-v64DOq6zZah-RG3ljiyY/viewform

Resulting Spreadsheet:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AnYWLa9GjG5tdFotdk40YjZWRV9mamRfNkREc3V0OVE&usp=sharing

it's pretty easy to make. if you have any questions just lmk.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> just got mine in my first ever build. Hope to have everything up and running tomorrow. Did a little customizing before putting it in.


Looks great, but what's that fluid you're using?


----------



## guinner16

Mayhems x1 clear with a custom red and blue dye mixture to make blood red.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> Mayhems x1 clear with a custom red and blue dye mixture to make blood red.


Mmm ... not an expert here, but as I understand it dye is not recommended. Better to used color tubing.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Mmm ... not an expert here, but as I understand it dye is not recommended. Better to used color tubing.


I plan on going to a full custom loop this time next year. I wanted to experiment since this is my first build. It only needs to last a year for me, and I am sure it will last much longer than that.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Phelan, I made a quick google docs spreadsheet and form to fill out information. This can either be used as an idea or actually used for the club, doesnt matter to me lol.
> 
> Example form:
> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/112ZmcCpR0sX8qPf5Bs7sJz-v64DOq6zZah-RG3ljiyY/viewform
> 
> Resulting Spreadsheet:
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AnYWLa9GjG5tdFotdk40YjZWRV9mamRfNkREc3V0OVE&usp=sharing
> 
> it's pretty easy to make. if you have any questions just lmk.


That looks awesome! I like it. Ironically though, if I use as requirements, I won't be able to join yet lol, since my comp is in pieces...


----------



## guinner16

I really hope this thing quiets down from what is sounded like during my leak test


----------



## Favian

Hey guys can you help me out with connecting the h220? I just want to make sure it's not defective because I can't get it to work for some reason. I connected the pump to ch1 on the pwm splitter and the 2 rad fans next to it. Then connected molex to the psu and the pwm splitter to the cpu_fan header on my motherboard. But for some reason I can't get past the post screen, it just gives me "cpu_fan error". I then tried to turn off cpu q-fan control in the bios but then I just get a bsod. I also tried connecting the pump directly to the cpu_fan header then the 2 fans to the chassis fan headers on my motherboard. Still gave me the same results. Any Ideas? Thank you


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Favian*
> 
> Hey guys can you help me out with connecting the h220? I just want to make sure it's not defective because I can't get it to work for some reason. I connected the pump to ch1 on the pwm splitter and the 2 rad fans next to it. Then connected molex to the psu and the pwm splitter to the cpu_fan header on my motherboard. But for some reason I can't get past the post screen, it just gives me "cpu_fan error". I then tried to turn off cpu q-fan control in the bios but then I just get a bsod. I also tried connecting the pump directly to the cpu_fan header then the 2 fans to the chassis fan headers on my motherboard. Still gave me the same results. Any Ideas? Thank you


Uh oh -- that's exactly what happened to me. My new unit should arrive on Friday.









Contact Swiftech directly. They were great about replacing my defective unit.


----------



## byomes

Anyone getting audible liquid noises from the pump? Sounds like it hasnt been topped off correctly


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> I really hope this thing quiets down from what is sounded like during my leak test


You mean the pump noise? Are you sure you filled the system completely? Even so, it'll take some time for all the bubbles to work out of the system.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Anyone getting audible liquid noises from the pump? Sounds like it hasnt been topped off correctly


That is exactly what I am getting. Even after getting the noise I went back to check fluid levels and it is at the top. It seemed worse when I mounted the rad with the fill hole facing down. It almost seems like its not getting enough water but I cant get any more water in there. I am hoping that it was only doing it with my leak test and it will quiet down over time.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> That is exactly what I am getting. Even after getting the noise I went back to check fluid levels and it is at the top. It seemed worse when I mounted the rad with the fill hole facing down. It almost seems like its not getting enough water but I cant get any more water in there. I am hoping that it was only doing it with my leak test and it will quiet down over time.


It should quiet down over time. Even if the unit is full there are still very small bubbles that should eventually work their up to the top.


----------



## justanoldman

If you are getting air bubble noises with your new H220, I think that is normal at first. Both mine did that for a little while. I ran them at 90% for awhile, and restarted several times. It ended up going away.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Anyone getting audible liquid noises from the pump? Sounds like it hasnt been topped off correctly


it's pretty much normal at least in my experience. If you have the radiator mounted with the fill port upside down, you'll get this a lot (the res acts as an air trap when mounted fill port up).

My little sound experiment and noise demo is up:



it goes away after a few minutes. It'll probably come back when you power the PC off and the air moves back.


----------



## Favian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Uh oh -- that's exactly what happened to me. My new unit should arrive on Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Contact Swiftech directly. They were great about replacing my defective unit.


Thank you AdamMT, I will rma right away. I hope you have better luck with your new unit.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> just got mine in my first ever build. Hope to have everything up and running tomorrow. Did a little customizing before putting it in.


Nice, im going to do the same but in different color!! When i get the chance!!


----------



## witeboy07

And here is the video unboxing, not your typical video. Enjoy guys and lets start using the full potential of this little monster!


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Nice, im going to do the same but in different color!! When i get the chance!!


If so, do use colored tubing instead of dye. I've read where dye can significantly increase temperatures -- as much as 4-5 degrees.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> If so, do use colored tubing instead of dye. I've read where dye can significantly increase temperatures -- as much as 4-5 degrees.


Before buying I red severals review and never heard this. You may be thinking of Mayhems Pastel Colors, as they do perform about 5 degress worse than mayhems X1 when under load.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> Before buying I red severals review and never heard this. You may be thinking of Mayhems Pastel Colors, as they do perform about 5 degress worse than mayhems X1 when under load.


What I read was pretty generic. There may well be specific dyes that are fine.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> If so, do use colored tubing instead of dye. I've read where dye can significantly increase temperatures -- as much as 4-5 degrees.


Thanks for the heads up, didnt know that as this is my first custom water cooling set up!


----------



## byomes

good to know the sound will go away. I mounted it up top my phantom 410 with the fans inside and fill port facing up.

And for those with phantom 410, the rad wont fit in the front with both hd trays removed & the rad will not fit up top with fans mounted inside because of the fill port (unless you take out that dremel







). The asus p8z77-v pro will also get in the way if the rad is mounted inside the case. Ah also the p8z77-v pro's heatsinks will block one of the cooling block's swivel elbows will be blocked if the block is mounted upright.


----------



## King4x4

Ordered one for the wifes pc... lets see how it goes!


----------



## witeboy07




----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> just got mine in my first ever build. Hope to have everything up and running tomorrow. Did a little customizing before putting it in.


Are you running a push pull with the sp120s?


----------



## guinner16

Yup. You cant see them but I have 120's on top.Also, I had a 140 on the inside right next to the h220, but it wouldnt fit. I could get it to fit with the red ring taken off the 140, but it was rubbing against the tubing. I just took it out and put it on top next the 120's.


----------



## gsk3rd

nice I will be running the same setup.


----------



## Klubhead

this is the same fan, yes?

Swiftech Helix 120

.. think i'm gonna rock a push/pull..


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> this is the same fan, yes?
> 
> Swiftech Helix 120
> 
> .. think i'm gonna rock a push/pull..


No, that's the 3-pin version. You'd want the 4-pin PWM fans.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> No, that's the 3-pin version. You'd want the 4-pin PWM fans.


Ooo here we go, thanks man!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> this is the same fan, yes?
> 
> Swiftech Helix 120
> 
> .. think i'm gonna rock a push/pull..


Those are the same but different. Those do not have PWM control, whereas the 2 that come with the H220 do. Amazon doesn't have any PWM Helix fans AFAIK.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Those are the same but different. Those do not have PWM control, whereas the 2 that come with the H220 do. Amazon doesn't have any PWM Helix fans AFAIK.


^^Found'em on Frozen^^ ( we must have been replying at the same time )


----------



## Phelan

Yep I guess so lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> this is the same fan, yes?
> 
> Swiftech Helix 120
> 
> .. think i'm gonna rock a push/pull..


Yes, but make sure they're the PWM version so that you can use them with our PWM splitter.


----------



## gsk3rd

To make sure I understand the only benefit to pwm fans is better software control, correct. Maybe better motor life?


----------



## TeeBlack

Look what i just got


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> Look what i just got


Welcome to the club!!


----------



## MerkageTurk

am i not added?>


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Welcome to the club!!


thank you!


----------



## MerkageTurk

add me to the club


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> add me to the club


Im not a mod, im just welcoming him to the club of having the cooler..lol..


----------



## MerkageTurk

i have the cooler too


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> i have the cooler too


Ha, welcome to the club then..lol..


----------



## witeboy07

I was wondering, since we connect all the fans to that pwm splitter, the cpu controls the speed and stuff, so are the fans also running the same speed as the pump?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> am i not added?>


I have this on open tab at my house, but I've just been busy and haven't had a chance to update it until late tonight







.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I have this on open tab at my house, but I've just been busy and haven't had a chance to update it until late tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you are going to update it tonight you may as well add me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> I was wondering, since we connect all the fans to that pwm splitter, the cpu controls the speed and stuff, so are the fans also running the same speed as the pump?


How this works is that they will all run at the same percentage as controlled by the motherboard's BIOS and/or software. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> If you are going to update it tonight you may as well add me.


I will, gonna go through all the pages and see who's not in yet







.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I will, gonna go through all the pages and see who's not in yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Just a suggestion, but you should bug people for some info. For me:
H220 #1:
mobo: Maximus V Formula
case: Switch 810
any issues with install: it fits with zero problems up top, but you will need to mod the case if you want it at the bottom

H220 #2:
mobo: Maximus V Formula
case: Silverstone TJ10
any issues with install: it will fit in the top if you purchase some radiator brackets

I would also suggest people put this info with their pic, then you can give a link in the spreadsheet to their post, so people with the same case or mobo can click it and see the pic as installed.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How this works is that they will all run at the same percentage as controlled by the motherboard's BIOS and/or software. I hope this answers your question.


I was wondering the same, so this _can_ be ran straight off the PWM and not monitored, it will throttle itself according to BIOS?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I was wondering the same, so this _can_ be ran straight off the PWM and not monitored, it will throttle itself according to BIOS?


Using our splitter the way our installation guide suggests will allow you to monitor your pump speed, but not your fan speeds. It will adjust your fan and pump speeds on a percentage from 1 to 100 based on the way you have it set up in your BIOS and/or motherboard software. Let me know if this answers your question.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I was wondering the same, so this _can_ be ran straight off the PWM and not monitored, it will throttle itself according to BIOS?


i'm not using the swiftech splitter at all with my h220 pump and it works fine. If you're worried about too much amp draw, 6w at 12V = .5 amp.

P8Z68's cpu fan headers I think are capable of 1 amp max to account for large 200mm CPU fans. Dont quote me on that though.


----------



## Pure2sin

I was getting some noise from the H220 which I thought was the pump. I tried everything with just the pump running and the pump seemed pretty quiet. I then tried with just the fans on the radiator and found my issue. The fans are producing some terrible noise.

Can one of the Swiftech Reps get into contact with me?

Other than that the install and temps are GREAT!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i'm not using the swiftech splitter at all with my h220 pump and it works fine. If you're worried about too much amp draw, 6w at 12V = .5 amp


How do you have it connected then and how are you monitoring your speeds?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I was getting some noise from the H220 which I thought was the pump. I tried everything with just the pump running and the pump seemed pretty quiet. I then tried with just the fans on the radiator and found my issue. The fans are producing some terrible noise.
> 
> I will have to contact Swiftech and see what they can do. Other than that the install and temps are GREAT!


How do you have the fans connected and are both fans causing the same noise?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How do you have it connected then and how are you monitoring your speeds?


Oh, i just have it connected directly to the 4pin on my motherboard. Since the GTs i have are only 3 pin, i have no current need for the splitter.

I know it will come in handy when the time comes to bleed the loop either way.


----------



## justanoldman

I think we have several choices with setting up the H220. You can choose not use the splitter at all and just plug the pump and fans into pwm capable connectors on your mobo - that way you can control them independently.

You can plug all three into the splitter and control them at the same % setting. Or you can plug any combination of your pump, H220 fans, and case fans into the splitter and mobo. It is up to you and experimentation for what works best for your setup.

You also have the choice of using software like speedfan to control everything, or just use bios. The choice there is personal, and how good your bios pwm controls are.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Using our splitter the way our installation guide suggests will allow you to monitor your pump speed, but not your fan speeds. It will adjust your fan and pump speeds on a percentage from 1 to 100 based on the way you have it set up in your BIOS and/or motherboard software. Let me know if this answers your question.


Pretty sure I follow, the pump being plugged into the main header on the PWM will only allow monitoring of pump speed, though the entire unit,pump and fan speed, can manually be controlled through BIOs/mobo software..







?


----------



## Pure2sin

Delete.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How do you have the fans connected and are both fans causing the same noise?


I have the pump connected to the PWM splitter on the red connector and the two fans connects to the PWM splitter on the next two black connectors.

It does sound like the fan closer to the rear of the case but I didn't test that. I will test either or and report back in a minute.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Pretty sure I follow, the pump being plugged into the main header on the PWM will only allow monitoring of pump speed, though the entire unit,pump and fan speed, can manually be controlled through BIOs/mobo software..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Exactly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I have the pump connected to the PWM splitter on the red connector and the two fans connects to the PWM splitter on the next two black connectors.
> 
> It does sound like the fan closer to the rear of the case but I didn't test that. I can test either or if you would like me to though?


If you could test each separately so we know how many will need to be replaced. Just PM me once you find out and we'll take it from there.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Just a suggestion, but you should bug people for some info. For me:
> H220 #1:
> mobo: Maximus V Formula
> case: Switch 810
> any issues with install: it fits with zero problems up top, but you will need to mod the case if you want it at the bottom
> 
> H220 #2:
> mobo: Maximus V Formula
> case: Silverstone TJ10
> any issues with install: it will fit in the top if you purchase some radiator brackets
> 
> I would also suggest people put this info with their pic, then you can give a link in the spreadsheet to their post, so people with the same case or mobo can click it and see the pic as installed.


Great idea! Temps and clocks on which CPU would be nice too! Just saying.


----------



## Pure2sin

Gotta say.... This company (Swiftech) has some good people working for them. Thanks for the fast response and issue resolution Bryan.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Great idea! Temps and clocks on which CPU would be nice too! Just saying.


I would agree that would be helpful but there are some difficulties. The hard part is everyone's case air flow is different, everyone's ambient is different, they may have set up different pwm controls or a fan curve, plus you would have to designate an exact methodology to follow to achieve and measure those temps.

I find the temps very comparable to the H100i, and there are a lot of reviews on it already, and a number on the H220 so far. Just my 2 cents.

For example: 24 hours of Prime95 torture test, custom, using 90% ram, my max core temp is 77c with 1.41v at 5.0. That however is meaningless to most because I have a delidded chip.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Gotta say.... This company (Swiftech) has some good people working for them. Thanks for the fast response and issue resolution Bryan.


You're welcome. Like I said earlier, we do our best to treat our customers the way that we would want to be treated.


----------



## MerkageTurk

thanks my LORDS


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How this works is that they will all run at the same percentage as controlled by the motherboard's BIOS and/or software. I hope this answers your question.


Thanks, i appreciate the answer, and from a swiftech rep!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would agree that would be helpful but there are some difficulties. The hard part is everyone's case air flow is different, everyone's ambient is different, they may have set up different pwm controls or a fan curve, plus you would have to designate an exact methodology to follow to achieve and measure those temps.
> 
> I find the temps very comparable to the H100i, and there are a lot of reviews on it already, and a number on the H220 so far. Just my 2 cents.
> 
> For example: 24 hours of Prime95 torture test, custom, using 90% ram, my max core temp is 77c with 1.41v at 5.0. That however is meaningless to most because I have a delidded chip.


And don't forget that there's also the dreaded silicon lottery. Not everyone's settings are going to work to achieve the same overclock as somebody else. This is why such information should only be used as an overclocking guideline. I don't think I need to say much more on the subject because this is OCN after all.


----------



## CTM Audi

Retesting the H100i in the Arc Midi R2, then the H220 is going in to be tested. Have the stock fans from each, and NF-F12s, testing all three on each.

For the PWM splitter, my board has CPU and three other PWM controlled headers. However only the CPU header is controllable by speedfan. So Ill be using the CPU header for the splitter to run all the fans, and the pump in one of the others, using the motherboard to set it separate.


----------



## Avonosac

couple teaser shots for you guys











and this stuff made the guys at microcenter drool a little bit.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Retesting the H100i in the Arc Midi R2, then the H220 is going in to be tested. Have the stock fans from each, and NF-F12s, testing all three on each.
> 
> For the PWM splitter, my board has CPU and three other PWM controlled headers. However only the CPU header is controllable by speedfan. So Ill be using the CPU header for the splitter to run all the fans, and the pump in one of the others, using the motherboard to set it separate.


i'm interested to see if your h100i/h220 comparison falls in line with my findings.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Retesting the H100i in the Arc Midi R2, then the H220 is going in to be tested. Have the stock fans from each, and NF-F12s, testing all three on each.
> 
> For the PWM splitter, my board has CPU and three other PWM controlled headers. However only the CPU header is controllable by speedfan. So Ill be using the CPU header for the splitter to run all the fans, and the pump in one of the others, using the motherboard to set it separate.


Make sure when plugging the pump into one of the PWM fan headers that they're either headers sys_fan 2 or 3. Sys_fan 1 is not PWM controlled even though it's got four pins. I just looked over the manual for your board.


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> couple teaser shots for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this stuff made the guys at microcenter drool a little bit.


especially that cx600m, I bet =D


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Make sure when plugging the pump into one of the PWM fan headers that they're either headers sys_fan 2 or 3. Sys_fan 1 is not PWM controlled even though it's got four pins. I just looked over the manual for your board.


Thats kind of odd, because there are 4 Sys fans, 1-3 are controllable via PWM in BIOS, and 4 is not. Its constant. Maybe they made a typo?
Ill use 2 just in case though.

ez12a, in your results, I didnt see anything about ambient temps. Were they being monitored?

I have a thermometer sitting on top of my case, next to the intake fans.

Testing Methods

Cooler mounted to the roof in an intake/push orientation (meaning the fans are intaking air from out side the case, and pushing through the radiator in to the case). Push/pull is used for the CNPS20LQ when using the 2x fans. Fans are 3ft away from my head in normal seating position.

Prime95 AVX small FFTs 15 minute runs are used for load testing. A thermometer is placed right next to the top fans to measure ambient temperature.

Core Temp is used to record temperatures of all cores, idle and load. Idle will be taken at 800RPM fan speed 30 minutes after the Prime95 run was done. Sound readings will also be done at 800RPM.

Thermal Paste

Small line of MX-2 between 3570K die and IHS. The CPU will not be removed from the motherboard, so this will not change at all.

Small dot of MX-2 between IHS and cooler block.

Fans

First testing will be done with included factory fans, limited to 1800RPM.
1800RPM was chosen, as that is the max speed of the Helix fans from the H220. Also, anything over that is just unreasonably loud with the SP120Ls.

I will also test the SP120Ls, Helix, and Zalman fans on a quiet setting. The RPM will be different from each, but will set them so they produce the same DB rating (29Db +/- 1Db) as NF-F12s 7V at 3ft. Idle testing will be 800RPM from all sets of fans.

Then I will test with Noctua NF-F12s. These are highly regarded fans, that are very quiet and smooth sounding, while offering good air flow and high static pressure. These will be tested at 1100RPM, which is the speed they run with the LNA (Low Noise Adapter).

Only other case fan installed is a stock Fractal rear exhaust at 7V. There is no perceivable noise from this fan at sitting distance. The Twin Frozr fans on the MSI GTX-670 is manually set to 30% fan speed (lowest setting). PSU fan will not be spinning.

For sound testing numbers, I will be using the sound meter app on my Nexus 4. This isn't the most accurate way of getting true decibel readings, but since it can be used to tell whether one is louder then the other. It will be placed directly next to my keyboard on my desk, and sitting directly above the fans on top of the case, with no other ambient noise.

Components

Intel I5 3570K IHS repasted with MX-2 running at 1.225V in BIOS, 1.224V load, 4.5Ghz
Gigabyte Z77X-UP4-TH motherboard
4x4GB Crucial Tactical Tracer 1866Mhz 9-9-9-27-2T
MSI GTX-670 PE idle
Seasonic X-650 Gold running in Hybrid mode so fan does not spin
2x Samsung SSDs behind motherboard tray
Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, drive cages removed, stock fans removed aside from rear exhaust position at 7V, all panels installed on case


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> ez12a, in your results, I didnt see anything about ambient temps. Were they being monitored?


They were not, but my small 1br condo on the ground floor stays at a comfortable 72F (thermostat right outside my room) pretty much all day long without HVAC.

Good luck on your testing. I would've done a more 'controlled' experiment but I gave up my h100i a long time ago. when I did that stability run with the h100i, i had the windows open too overnight.

even with a +/- 2F margin of error, it only equates to approx 1C difference. Doesnt account for the 5C higher temperatures with the h100i.


----------



## guinner16

I wanted to give everyone an update who was getting bubble noises from the pump. I just took mine out and turned it over with the fill side facing up. The bubble noise was 99% gone in less than one minute.


----------



## TeeBlack

Not trying start an argument or anything but if you already bought the H220 why do you care so much about the H100i? If you dont like the unit or it dont perform as well as you want i say return it or sell it. I can care less what the H100i can do. I bought the H220 because i wanted it and i plan to expand it later on. I say enjoy your purchase and stop worrying about other coolers. Like i said not trying to start an argrument just my 2 cents.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> Not trying start an argument or anything but if you already bought the H220 why do you care so much about the H100i? If you dont like the unit or it dont perform as well as you want i say return it or sell it. I can care less what the H100i can do. I bought the H220 because i wanted it and i plan to expand it later on. I say enjoy your purchase and stop worrying about other coolers. Like i said not trying to start an argrument just my 2 cents.


If you're referring to me, I compare the two because:
1. H100i is the closest competitor to the H220 in out of the box form and function.
2. My experience with the h100i wasnt good, and i was gladly looking at other solutions. Call it disillusionment with Corsair. And I did return it, only after 2 weeks of having it. CorsairLink was such a sad piece of software.
3. Swiftech must've thought the same as #1, hence why it had one in their live demo at CES.
4. People like TTL have publicly declared the H220 inferior to it, and to this day hasnt retracted his statement. I want people to read this thread and buy it over the h100i.

Simple as that, really.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> Not trying start an argument or anything but if you already bought the H220 why do you care so much about the H100i? If you dont like the unit or it dont perform as well as you want i say return it or sell it. I can care less what the H100i can do. I bought the H220 because i wanted it and i plan to expand it later on. I say enjoy your purchase and stop worrying about other coolers. Like i said not trying to start an argrument just my 2 cents.


Because of the conflicting reviews that have already been done between the 2 coolers. People want the real numbers. I was one of them looking for answers.
My H220 is on the way!


----------



## AdamMT

I wonder why Martin hasn't published his H100i comparison yet. Didn't he get a Corsair unit a week or so ago?


----------



## AdamMT

Edit: double post


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I wonder why Martin hasn't published his H100i comparison yet. Didn't he get a Corsair unit a week or so ago?


Who was it that said the H220 hoses were "too long"..? Turns out the h100i hoses are about 2" too short to bottom mount in my Switch 810, so i am having to retest the H220 in top so i can get a direct apples to apples comparison.

I got noise testing done for at least the two, but still working on thermals. I hate retesting stuff, but mixing mout type isn't an acceptable comparison. I'm anal that way I know. Patience..patience...noise videos and charts are posted for that part. H220 is ahead in noise per RPM by a few dBA, but I would suggest listening to the videos to understand noise quality difference too. Plan to use this so I can compare noise vs dT. Cheers! Martin

Oh yeah, I also moved in the last two weeks so been a little preoccupied carrying boxes up three flights of stairs...


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Who was it that said the H220 hoses were "too long"..? Turns out the h100i hoses are about 2" too short to bottom mount in my Switch 810, so i am having to retest the H220 in top so i can get a direct apples to apples comparison.
> 
> I got noise testing done for at least the two, but still working on thermals. I hate retesting stuff, but mixing mout type isn't an acceptable comparison. I'm anal that way I know. Patience..patience...noise videos and charts are posted for that part. H220 is ahead in noise per RPM by a few dBA, but I would suggest listening to the videos to understand noise quality difference too. Plan to use this so I can compare noise vs dT. Cheers! Martin
> 
> Oh yeah, I also moved in the last two weeks so been a little preoccupied carrying boxes up three flights of stairs...


I know how you feel. I spent last week testing the H100i and Zalman CNPS20LQ in a Phantom 630 while I waited for the H220. Long story short, decided to change to the Fractal Arc Midi R2, so had to start all over again.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Who was it that said the H220 hoses were "too long"..? Turns out the h100i hoses are about 2" too short to bottom mount in my Switch 810, so i am having to retest the H220 in top so i can get a direct apples to apples comparison.
> 
> I got noise testing done for at least the two, but still working on thermals. I hate retesting stuff, but mixing mout type isn't an acceptable comparison. I'm anal that way I know. Patience..patience...noise videos and charts are posted for that part. H220 is ahead in noise per RPM by a few dBA, but I would suggest listening to the videos to understand noise quality difference too. Plan to use this so I can compare noise vs dT. Cheers! Martin
> 
> Oh yeah, I also moved in the last two weeks so been a little preoccupied carrying boxes up three flights of stairs...


Hey, beggars can't be choosers, right?







Looking forward to the full report.

And holy [email protected]!! Those H100i fans are OBNOXIOUS!!


----------



## Avonosac

So, initial reports of H220 with Z77E-ITX.

The odd placement of the CPU socket strikes again. You run into trouble no matter how you orient the CPU block, but it does fit. I have a feeling low profile (read that the samsung wonderram) will fit ok, but the left side (towards the output ports) the chipset block will just barely touch the swivel barb, it doesn't cause any contact issues, and temps are fine as far as I can see, but the metal is definitely contacting the barb.

Now, if you're an idiot like I am, you just sent your 16 gigs of wonderram to your friend when you sold your old full tower case, and now are stuck with vengance 16gb full size. This most definitely does not fit, the barb completely blocks the DIMM slot above the low profile ram. I'm going to steal my GFs samsung ram this weekend, and I will report back with any findings. I anticipate this to work based on the height of block and the location of the swivel barb.

If you want to avoid these said issues... It is the same story as usual, the swivel barb like practically every cooler, will block your PCIe slot. It can't be helped, you have no choice but to go with the horizontal configuration. Buy yourself some low profile ram guys.

Now, this cooler is freaking great. I can't wait to get my EK titan block and this other res I ordered into the loop and see what kinda cooling potential I can get! I'll be doing that this weekend, so stay tuned!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> So, initial reports of H220 with Z77E-ITX.
> 
> The odd placement of the CPU socket strikes again. You run into trouble no matter how you orient the CPU block, but it does fit. I have a feeling low profile (read that the samsung wonderram) will fit ok, but the left side (towards the output ports) the chipset block will just barely touch the swivel barb, it doesn't cause any contact issues, and temps are fine as far as I can see, but the metal is definitely contacting the barb.
> 
> Now, if you're an idiot like I am, you just sent your 16 gigs of wonderram to your friend when you sold your old full tower case, and now are stuck with vengance 16gb full size. This most definitely does not fit, the barb completely blocks the DIMM slot above the low profile ram. I'm going to steal my GFs samsung ram this weekend, and I will report back with any findings. I anticipate this to work based on the height of block and the location of the swivel barb.
> 
> If you want to avoid these said issues... It is the same story as usual, the swivel barb like practically every cooler, will block your PCIe slot. It can't be helped, you have no choice but to go with the horizontal configuration. Buy yourself some low profile ram guys.
> 
> Now, this cooler is freaking great. I can't wait to get my EK titan block and this other res I ordered into the loop and see what kinda cooling potential I can get! I'll be doing that this weekend, so stay tuned!


Vengeance RAM doesn't need heatsinks; pull the black sticker of the top and the 2 sides can be unclipped from eachother easily to remove the heatsinks. I'd say that's the easiest solution.


----------



## TeeBlack

My previous statement wasnt directed at anyone. It was a general opinion by me. I say that because this is the H220 Club but i been hearing so much talking about the H100i in here. So i hope people dont take what i said personal or the wrong way. Btw about the H220 hose being too long the Kraken X60 hose are almost just as long as the H220 but nobody never mentioned that not even TTL.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> So, initial reports of H220 with Z77E-ITX.
> 
> The odd placement of the CPU socket strikes again. You run into trouble no matter how you orient the CPU block, but it does fit. I have a feeling low profile (read that the samsung wonderram) will fit ok, but the left side (towards the output ports) the chipset block will just barely touch the swivel barb, it doesn't cause any contact issues, and temps are fine as far as I can see, but the metal is definitely contacting the barb.
> 
> Now, if you're an idiot like I am, you just sent your 16 gigs of wonderram to your friend when you sold your old full tower case, and now are stuck with vengance 16gb full size. This most definitely does not fit, the barb completely blocks the DIMM slot above the low profile ram. I'm going to steal my GFs samsung ram this weekend, and I will report back with any findings. I anticipate this to work based on the height of block and the location of the swivel barb.
> 
> If you want to avoid these said issues... It is the same story as usual, the swivel barb like practically every cooler, will block your PCIe slot. It can't be helped, you have no choice but to go with the horizontal configuration. Buy yourself some low profile ram guys.
> 
> Now, this cooler is freaking great. I can't wait to get my EK titan block and this other res I ordered into the loop and see what kinda cooling potential I can get! I'll be doing that this weekend, so stay tuned!


Just in case you didnt know, Crucial makes super low profile ram now too.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148655
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148663


----------



## pat102ko

There it is!!


----------



## Phelan

Hmm... relevant.


----------



## Phelan

Owners' list is updated. That list is just temporary as ez12a is making us a new spreadsheet, so once it goes live, you'll have to add yourself







. Requirements will be slightly different, but those of us that don't have a running rig yet will still be able to join in







.


----------



## CTM Audi




----------



## ez12a

H220 Owners Join Form

Current Member List
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AnYWLa9GjG5tdE42dmFpZU9NckZ4RWM0cXYy***VWlE&output=html&widget=true

due to certain limitations of OCN the spreadsheet unfortunately cant be embedded. I will PM some mods to perhaps allow it for this instance.


----------



## Phelan

Guys, please fill out the form above, and put your case and fan/rad orientation in the notes section. I'll add it to the OP in the morning. GN


----------



## psikeiro

Some more pics:



http://imgur.com/MFb6T


----------



## pat102ko

Im jealous you have all your cords behind the plate.. I always tell myself ill just fix it later hahah


----------



## frozenclay

Hi folks, just wanna ask if the h220 will fit the HAF XM. Just wanna make sure before i buy. TIA


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pat102ko*
> 
> Im jealous you have all your cords behind the plate.. I always tell myself ill just fix it later hahah


back of plate


----------



## pat102ko

I'm hoping I'll get myself to deal with the cords for the back plate sometime over this next week. Thanks for the photo btw, I'm going to use it as reference when I get around to it. How was the fit with the H220? Mine was pretty tight with my motherboard.


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pat102ko*
> 
> I'm hoping I'll get myself to deal with the cords for the back plate sometime over this next week. Thanks for the photo btw, I'm going to use it as reference when I get around to it. How was the fit with the H220? Mine was pretty tight with my motherboard.


easy.


----------



## pat102ko

just curious


----------



## JoshME

I must say that this little guy looks like it will be a great addition to my rig and I also want to thank everyone on here that takes time out of the day to help answer questions or showcase builds so that others can learn by example.

Also just curious for anyone out there with a Fractal Design r4 is it better to try and fit the H220 with the fans on top and the rad below in a pull configuration or to have the fans on bottom in a push configuration or something else entirely. I have the Asus Sabertooth Z77 Mobo. Thanks in advance


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> H220.jpg 2053k .jpg file
> 
> 
> I must say that this little guy looks like it will be a great addition to my rig and I also want to thank everyone on here that takes time out of the day to help answer questions or showcase builds so that others can learn by example.
> 
> Also just curious for anyone out there with a Fractal Design r4 is it better to try and fit the H220 with the fans on top and the rad below in a pull configuration or to have the fans on bottom in a push configuration or something else entirely. I have the Asus Sabertooth Z77 Mobo. Thanks in advance


I have the r4 and I tried both the push method intake and push method exhaust in it, my CPU's temps were pretty similar at both idle and load but my top video card was idling about 5-7c hotter when I had the cooler in the push intake config, FYI.


----------



## JoshME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> I have the r4 and I tried both the push method intake and push method exhaust in it, my CPU's temps were pretty similar at both idle and load but my top video card was idling about 5-7c hotter when I had the cooler in the push intake config, FYI.


So you are currently running it with the fans on the bottom in a push exhaust orientation? Did you give any thought to a pull orientation? Thanks for the info will make my trial and error much smoother


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> So you are currently running it with the fans on the bottom in a push exhaust orientation? Did you give any thought to a pull orientation? Thanks for the info will make my trial and error much smoother


I did not try pull, dont feel like switching the fans around.


----------



## JoshME

Yeah I can understand that lol I am changing the stock fans to some bitfenix specter pros so I have to remove them anyways lol will let ya know how it goes though might end up doing it your way cause the way you have the tubing wrapping around the fans looks better than any other orientation I've seen


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> Yeah I can understand that lol I am changing the stock fans to some bitfenix specter pros so I have to remove them anyways lol will let ya know how it goes though might end up doing it your way cause the way you have the tubing wrapping around the fans looks better than any other orientation I've seen


why would you put worse fans on there?


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> why would you put worse fans on there?


At least in my testing, the Helix fans are not that great. The Bitfenix ones arent either when it comes to cooling, but they look really nice and are very quiet. Im using NF-F12s. To each their own.


----------



## MadGoat

in:


----------



## JoshME

Yeah I'm going for silence and looks hence the windowed r4 if noctua had good looking fans I'd have them instead but as it stands I went with what I could find if anyone knows of better pressure fans that look as good or close to the bitfenix ones let me know


----------



## CTM Audi

Pure data of my review, will do some graphs tomorrow or later this week. Or jump to the conclusion for a quick description.

Posting this in the owners thread, and the main thread. I think they should be combined, but oh well. Anyway, here we go...

Testing Methods

Cooler mounted to the roof in an intake/push orientation (meaning the fans are intaking air from out side the case, and pushing through the radiator in to the case). Push/pull is used for the CNPS20LQ when using the 2x fans. Fans are 3ft away from my head in normal seating position.

Prime95 AVX small FFTs 15 minute runs are used for load testing. A thermometer is placed right next to the top fans to measure ambient temperature.

Core Temp is used to record temperatures of all cores, idle and load. Idle will be taken at 800RPM fan speed (as low as the Helix fans can go) 30 minutes after the Prime95 run was done. Sound readings will also be done at 800RPM.

Thermal Paste

Small line of MX-2 between 3570K die and IHS. The CPU will not be removed from the motherboard, so this will not change at all.

Small dot of MX-2 between IHS and cooler block.

Fans

First testing will be done with included factory fans, limited to 1800RPM.
1800RPM was chosen, as that is the max speed of the Helix fans from the H220. Also, anything over that is just unreasonably loud with the SP120Ls.

I will also test the SP120Ls, Helix, and Zalman fans on a quiet setting. The RPM will be different from each, but will set them so they produce the same DB rating (29Db +/- 1Db) as NF-F12s 7V at 3ft. Idle testing will be 800RPM from all sets of fans.

Then I will test with Noctua NF-F12s. These are highly regarded fans, that are very quiet and smooth sounding, while offering good air flow and high static pressure. These will be tested at 1100RPM, which is the speed they run with the LNA (Low Noise Adapter).

Only other case fan installed is a stock Fractal rear exhaust at 7V. There is no perceivable noise from this fan at sitting distance. The Twin Frozr fans on the MSI GTX-670 is manually set to 30% fan speed (lowest setting). PSU fan will not be spinning.

For sound testing numbers, I will be using the sound meter app on my Nexus 4. This isn't the most accurate way of getting true decibel readings, but since it can be used to tell whether one is louder then the other. It will be placed directly next to my keyboard on my desk, and sitting directly above the fans on top of the case, with no other ambient noise.

Components

Intel I5 3570K IHS repasted with MX-2 running at 1.225V in BIOS, 1.224V load, 4.5Ghz
Gigabyte Z77X-UP4-TH motherboard
4x4GB Crucial Tactical Tracer 1866Mhz 9-9-9-27-2T
MSI GTX-670 PE idle
Seasonic X-650 Gold running in Hybrid mode so fan does not spin
2x Samsung SSDs behind motherboard tray
Fractal Arc Midi R2 case, drive cages removed, stock fans removed aside from rear exhaust position at 7V, all panels installed on case

Cooling And Sound Results

Zalman Stock Fan - 23C Ambient

Load 1800RPM - 3ft 38Db - 1" 52Db
68 / 75 / 77 / 76

Idle 800RPM - 3ft 28Db - 1" 39Db
35 / 41 / 38 / 40

Zalman Stock Fan Quiet Setting - 23C Ambient

Load 1000RPM - 3ft 30Db - 1" 41Db
79 / 85 / 87 / 87 (DNF, apps were crashing once 85C was hit)

Zalman NF-F12s 7v - 23C Ambient

Load 1100RPM - 3ft 28Db - 1" 42Db (fans are spaced with push/pull rather then side by side)
65 / 72 / 74 / 73

Idle 800RPM - 21Db - 1" 36Db
33 / 36 / 34 / 35

Corsair H100i SP120L Fans - 23C Ambient

Load 1800RPM - 3ft 40Db - 1" 61Db
57 / 64 / 65 / 65

Idle 800RPM - 3ft 26Db - 1" 42Db
31 / 33 / 32 / 33

Corsair H100i SP120Ls Quiet Setting - 23C Ambient

Load 1100RPM - 3ft 30Db - 1" 50Db
64 / 70 / 70 / 70

Corsair H100i NF-F12s 7v - 23C Ambient

Load 1100RPM - 3ft 29Db - 1" 50Db
63 / 69 / 69 / 69

Idle 800RPM - 3ft 22Db - 1" 41Db
29 / 33 / 30 / 33

Swiftech H220 Helix Fans - 24C Ambient

Load 1800RPM - 3ft 36Db - 1" 65Db
59 / 67 / 66 / 66

Idle 800RPM - 3ft 25Db - 1" 39Db
31 / 33 / 30 / 33

Swiftech H220 Helix Fans Quiet Setting - 23C Ambient

Load 1250RPM - 3ft 30Db - 1" 50Db
62 / 69 / 69 / 68

Swiftech H220 NF-F12s 7v - 24C Ambient

Load 1100RPM - 3ft 25Db - 1" 49Db
61 / 68 / 68 / 67

Idle 800RPM - 3ft 21Db - 1" 39Db
30 / 32 / 28 / 32

Conclusion

So much to talk about with the H220, don't know where to start. Guess we'll start with the cooling performance.

With the same fans on all three coolers (the Noctua NF-F12s), the H220 leads the H100i by 2C over ambient, and 7C over the Zalman. When comparing the three at the same noise level, the H220 is still 1C cooler then the H100i, and vastly cooler then the Zalman (more to discus on this later).

Now, when we look at the performance of them with the included fans, at the same speed (1800RPM), the picture changes. Here the H100i beats the H220 by 1C over ambient, and 12C over the Zalman. I can see a couple of reasons for this.

First, the biggest reason that I can think of, is the fans performance in a restrictive environment. Each fan is designed a different way, and some fans are better then others when they are "blocked" from where they are trying to get the air to pull through. The Arc Midi R2 case has a pretty thick fan filter in the top panel, and not much room between the fan and filter. The Noctua NF-F12s and SP120Ls don't seem to be effected by this as much as the Zalman and Helix fans.

Before I got this case, I had a NZXT Phantom 630, which had practically no restriction behind the fans. In that case, the Zalman with its stock fan turned down had no trouble at all keeping temps under 75C. The difference in performance was also much smaller compared to the H100i.

The second reason, is even though they are spinning at the same speed, the Zalman and SP120L fans are much louder then the Helix fans. They are able to do more at the same speed, but at the expense of more noise.

With an AIO cooler there are three main components to be compared. The block/pump unit, the rad, and the fans. Clearly, the H220 has the best block/pump and rad of all the AIO coolers. The fans that come with it just don't cool as well as some other options out there. They are pretty quiet (though not as quiet or nearly as smooth sounding as the NF-F12s), look nice, and are PWM controlled though.

If you put the H220 up against the H100i with the same set of fans, or where both are making the same amount of noise, the H220 is the better performer. But if you just want straight cooling performance, don't care so much about noise, and don't want to spend more money on other fans, then the H100i is very slightly better.

However, the major point to the H220, is the expandability of it. Ive already ordered an other radiator, new tubing, and have a block ready to cool my GTX 670. This will continue to cut down on noise, and also improve cooling performance.

On to build quality and installation.

There is a very heft weight to this unit that other AIOs don't have. Especially the block/pump. The rad of my unit was spotless with no bent fins, and all the air bubbles escaped from the pump in a matter of seconds.

Negative points. The tubing was very dirty/stained. Its "gunked" in to the outside of the tubing, and effects the look of it. My unit also came with the pin for the blue PWM wire of the pump being bent, and not making good contact. This took me a while to figure out why it was running full speed all the time. After fiddling with the wire a bit, and installing it in a way that puts tension on it, it now works.

The mounting of the block/pump could be much easier. The included back plate has four little foam squares that don't do anything but make it harder to instal. They are sticky, but so small when you try to thread the screws through, it pushes it right off. So you have to either hold the back plate with one hand, and try to hold the block/pump and screw it in with the other, or prop something against the back plate while you mount it.

Also, because the radiator has swivel barbs, and the res built in, its longer then most 240mm radiators. It was a very tight fit in the top of my Arc Midi R2 case. The radiator is 29mm thick instead of 25mm thick like the H100i and most other 240mm AIO coolers. This means that cases with 50mm of space from the top to the motherboard may not fit (depends on your motherboard).

To close this up, overall I'm very happy with this kit. Its a great way to for first timers to get their feet wet with water cooling, and is a great bargain for enthusiasts who don't want to blow a ton of money on a full custom kit all at once. After having many custom kits before, I can tell it would take at least double the money to get a custom kit that would perform noticeably better then this.

Id also trust it to last a very long time, and Swiftech's customer support is top notch. They have been in the water cooling game for a long time, and really know what they are doing.

Expect an H320 to be released soon as well, with a 3x120mm radiator. I believe a white version may be coming as well. You can also check their site for extra fittings, tubing, PWM splitters, rads, and Hydrx 2 coolant for expanding it.

H220 gets a full recommendation from me.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> Yeah I'm going for silence and looks hence the windowed r4 if noctua had good looking fans I'd have them instead but as it stands I went with what I could find if anyone knows of better pressure fans that look as good or close to the bitfenix ones let me know


you do know that Bitfenix have Spectre pwm led fans right? They also have spectre pro pwm fans but cant really find them anywhere. you'll have to email BItfenix about them. Those only come in white or black though (Non LED)


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> I have the r4 and I tried both the push method intake and push method exhaust in it, my CPU's temps were pretty similar at both idle and load but my top video card was idling about 5-7c hotter when I had the cooler in the push intake config, FYI.


My plan is to mount with the fans below in a pull/intake position.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> So, initial reports of H220 with Z77E-ITX.
> 
> The odd placement of the CPU socket strikes again. You run into trouble no matter how you orient the CPU block, but it does fit. I have a feeling low profile (read that the samsung wonderram) will fit ok, but the left side (towards the output ports) the chipset block will just barely touch the swivel barb, it doesn't cause any contact issues, and temps are fine as far as I can see, but the metal is definitely contacting the barb.
> 
> Now, if you're an idiot like I am, you just sent your 16 gigs of wonderram to your friend when you sold your old full tower case, and now are stuck with vengance 16gb full size. This most definitely does not fit, the barb completely blocks the DIMM slot above the low profile ram. I'm going to steal my GFs samsung ram this weekend, and I will report back with any findings. I anticipate this to work based on the height of block and the location of the swivel barb.
> 
> If you want to avoid these said issues... It is the same story as usual, the swivel barb like practically every cooler, will block your PCIe slot. It can't be helped, you have no choice but to go with the horizontal configuration. Buy yourself some low profile ram guys.
> 
> Now, this cooler is freaking great. I can't wait to get my EK titan block and this other res I ordered into the loop and see what kinda cooling potential I can get! I'll be doing that this weekend, so stay tuned!


ARGH.








I AM DISSAPOINT.
I want to run Geil full size sticks, and now you tell me the mobo you have (which I have) will cause me headaches?!
You aren't allowed to let us down like that... FIX IT.








So to hunt for new RAM now...

Thank you VERY much for the heads up, saves me the headache, return, and rush in the long run!








+REP for sure!

Thanks - T


----------



## JoshME

I did look into the spectre pro pwm fans but I decided since I would most likely not go beyond the 1200-1300rpm fan speed due to noise that there was not an overwhelmingly good reason to go with the non led version. If I get bad results with the spectre pros I will probably switch to the helix fans until I can find a suitable upgrade


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> I did look into the spectre pro pwm fans but I decided since I would most likely not go beyond the 1200-1300rpm fan speed due to noise that there was not an overwhelmingly good reason to go with the non led version. If I get bad results with the spectre pros I will probably switch to the helix fans until I can find a suitable upgrade


I got 2 spectre pro voltage regulated in my case and, they aren't great.
At full speed, the spectre pro are as loud (the noise is not comfortable) as the Helix 120 at full speed.
Both at their lowest are quiet, but the helix 120 move more air.


----------



## Scorpion667

Looks like NCIX Canada has them in stock now. Should be receiving mine in 2-3 days.

I plan on just throwing on 4 AP-15's. Has anyone tested AP-15 vs Helix fans?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Looks like NCIX Canada has them in stock now. Should be receiving mine in 2-3 days.
> 
> I plan on just throwing on 4 AP-15's. Has anyone tested AP-15 vs Helix fans?


i can try after work. Mine is currently paired with 2x Ap-15s.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i can try after work. Mine is currently paired with 2x Ap-15s.


Cheers mate. I'm not looking for anything overly scientific or perfect testing methodology, just a quick comparison at max rpm

I hear the Helix fans are pretty quiet anyway, I'll still use them somewhere else in my case, I'm sure.


----------



## WarMacheen

In case any one has an NZXT Switch 810, the fit of the H220 is tricky with the fill port up. For now I have 2 Couger Vortex (only fans I had laying around) and the 2 stock Swiftech fans installed. The Vortex fans are holding the entire assembly as none of the standard mounting holes lined up due to the res/fill port part. I will most likely modify (ie, cutting a bit of metal out) the top of the case to mount everything properly in the near future.

Having to deal with the plastic retaining clips when switching to LGA 2011 was a pain, literally. Overall the entire set up is much quiter than the H100 with standard Corsair fans I had. In the H100's defense the four fans that were on it were abysmal and sounded like a jet taking off. I'll be adding three GPU blocks eventually and another res, radiator etc.

As an added note my tubes were clean, no fins or pins were bent, and all of the hardware was present.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMacheen*
> 
> In case any one has an NZXT Switch 810, the fit of the H220 is tricky with the fill port up. For now I have 2 Couger Vortex (only fans I had laying around) and the 2 stock Swiftech fans installed. The Vortex fans are holding the entire assembly as none of the standard mounting holes lined up due to the res/fill port part. I will most likely modify (ie, cutting a bit of metal out) the top of the case to mount everything properly in the near future.
> 
> Having to deal with the plastic retaining clips when switching to LGA 2011 was a pain, literally. Overall the entire set up is much quiter than the H100 with standard Corsair fans I had. In the H100's defense the four fans that were on it were abysmal and sounded like a jet taking off. I'll be adding three GPU blocks eventually and another res, radiator etc.
> 
> As an added note my tubes were clean, no fins or pins were bent, and all of the hardware was present.


I'm the one that fit the H220 into the top of the Switch 810 for the compatibility pictures. The only issue that I had is that I had to place the radiator toward the front of the case to make room for the reservoir. You can clearly see that in the picture on our website. The holes lined up perfectly with it in this position. Did you try to put it in the same position, or did yo just try to install it toward the back of the case?


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMacheen*
> 
> In case any one has an NZXT Switch 810, the fit of the H220 is tricky with the fill port up. For now I have 2 Couger Vortex (only fans I had laying around) and the 2 stock Swiftech fans installed. The Vortex fans are holding the entire assembly as none of the standard mounting holes lined up due to the res/fill port part. I will most likely modify (ie, cutting a bit of metal out) the top of the case to mount everything properly in the near future.
> 
> Having to deal with the plastic retaining clips when switching to LGA 2011 was a pain, literally. Overall the entire set up is much quiter than the H100 with standard Corsair fans I had. In the H100's defense the four fans that were on it were abysmal and sounded like a jet taking off. I'll be adding three GPU blocks eventually and another res, radiator etc.
> 
> As an added note my tubes were clean, no fins or pins were bent, and all of the hardware was present.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm the one that fit the H220 into the top of the Switch 810 for the compatibility pictures. The only issue that I had is that I had to place the radiator toward the front of the case to make room for the reservoir. You can clearly see that in the picture on our website. The holes lined up perfectly with it in this position. Did you try to put it in the same position, or did yo just try to install it toward the back of the case?


I think he means with the fill port up. Your install picture is with the fill port facing down. I originally installed it in my 810 with the fillport down and it fit fine, except I was getting tons of "bubble/running water noise". Last night I turned it over and it was silent within a couple of minutes. I actually mounted the rad and push/pull fans all inside the case. I bought longer screws to and inserted them on the top of the case where the fans would normally go. This then went into the fan which screwed into the rad. I then used the long screws that came with the h220 to screw the bottom fans into the rad. Even with all the fans and rad inside the case I still had room for it with an ASUS Maximus Formula V. Is it okay to mount they rad like this or am I doing something wrong by have all the fans in the case.

Edit: with this set up I was able to use a screw in every single hole in the rad. I purchased 6mm 1 1/4" screws (I might have to double check the screw sze but I think that is correct.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cheers mate. I'm not looking for anything overly scientific or perfect testing methodology, just a quick comparison at max rpm
> 
> I hear the Helix fans are pretty quiet anyway, I'll still use them somewhere else in my case, I'm sure.


yup, noise wise i believe they're comparable to GTs. I currently have one of the included helix PWM fans as my exhaust fan on the back side of the case.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> I think he means with the fill port up. Your install picture is with the fill port facing down. I originally installed it in my 810 with the fillport down.


No, the pic on Swiftech's site shows the fill port facing up.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> No, the pic on Swiftech's site shows the fill port facing up.


Yeah you are correct. I could have swore I remembered it being face down but I guess I was wrong. My questions is how are the fans mounted. Mine are mounted from inside the case, whereas they were mounted outside the case with the fill port down.


----------



## Neo Zuko

My Swiftech H220 came in the mail.





I haven't hooked it up yet as I need a very thin Phillips Driver to set up my fans right. The short bolts only secure the fan from the lower side of the fan instead of a long bolt going through both sides. Not the coolest design note I've ever come across as my whole PC is basically down because of this. I could install it upside down but I still want to switch out the fans so I will hold off for now. Perhaps an argument for a real set of tools rather than a con for the H220. It does look cleaner hiding the bolt like that.

Overall it feels like a nice kit with the pump waterblock being the best thing about it. The pump is expandable, solid, and full of quality parts. That's the real game changer for this sort of kit. I wish it had a red LED Swiftech logo like the Apogee Drive II and swivel compression fittings. Swiftech still has the best mounting systems I've seen.

The quality swivel clamp fittings it does have are the H220's next best feature but can get you in trouble. After swiveling around the H220 for test fitting in my SM8 case the H220 became very twisted. After playing with it like a Rubix Cube for ten minutes I figured it out. This happens if one of the rad swivel fittings is swiveled around and the other is not. The tubing can't swivel with the unit if swiveled on one side. Just swivel the rad side fittings in unison and it should work out ok. The pump side fittings can't swivel around like the rad side fittings, the mount will block the fitting from doing complete circles.

My H220's rad fins are not the prettiest or straightest fins I've ever seen. My H100i was aesthetically better in this respect, never mind the Swiss Watch build quality of the SR-1 rads. But the H220's rad is not bad by any means and I'm sure it performs better than the H100i too. Defiantly not a reason to avoid the H220, but down the line with money to burn I'd rather switch out the rad for an SR-1 or UT60.

From what I've read the Helix PWM fans are much better on noise than the stock H100i fans. However they don't have the ultimate build quality or performance of GT AP-15s. So I'm moving them off the H220 in favor of push pull GTs... As soon as I get my hands on a thinner Phillips Driver!!


----------



## AdamMT

Yeah, it would have been nice if they included a cheapo philips head screwdriver with a narrow enough shaft to fit through the screw holes. I had to turn my house upside down but eventually found a little screwdriver that would do the job.

Why do you have four PWM splitters?


----------



## WarMacheen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> I think he means with the fill port up. Your install picture is with the fill port facing down. I originally installed it in my 810 with the fillport down and it fit fine, except I was getting tons of "bubble/running water noise". Last night I turned it over and it was silent within a couple of minutes. I actually mounted the rad and push/pull fans all inside the case. I bought longer screws to and inserted them on the top of the case where the fans would normally go. This then went into the fan which screwed into the rad. I then used the long screws that came with the h220 to screw the bottom fans into the rad. Even with all the fans and rad inside the case I still had room for it with an ASUS Maximus Formula V. Is it okay to mount they rad like this or am I doing something wrong by have all the fans in the case.
> 
> Edit: with this set up I was able to use a screw in every single hole in the rad. I purchased 6mm 1 1/4" screws (I might have to double check the screw sze but I think that is correct.


Yes fill port up, with the fill port down it fit perfect. The fill port is now up facing the front of the case, facing back will require cutting. Not a big deal, fans are holding it fine until I get around to modding.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMacheen*
> 
> Yes fill port up, with the fill port down it fit perfect. The fill port is now up facing the front of the case, facing back will require cutting. Not a big deal, fans are holding it fine until I get around to modding.


Here is what I did. I mounted it with the fillport facing up, and at the rear of the case with the tubes on the right. I did not slide it over to the right in the bay area of the 810, and iinstead have it slid over to the left/rear. First I mounted the fans (corsair sp 120's) to the bottom side of the rad. I then put a screw through the top of the case where the outer fans would normally go. I then placed 2 fans on the top of the rad without screwing them in. I then took the whole thing (rad, 2 bottom mounted fans, 2 nonmounted top fans), and lifted them up into the case. I then put the screw through a hole of the unmounted top fan tray, and lined it up with the rad. I did the same thing with another screw and got it so I could let go of everything. From that point I just lined up the rest of the holes and tightened them up. so the top screws are set in from the ouutside of the case and pull up/tighten the whole unit from the inside. I was able to do this using all 8 120mm case mounting holes and no mods. I was able to do while just barely clearing the cpu power cords. The only thing I had to do was go to home depot and buy 8 screws to match the long ones swiftech supplies. the only downfall I can see from is more space taken up inside the case with everything mounted inside, as opposed to have 2 fans and rad inside, and 2 fans mounted outside. If anybody would like a pic of what I am talking about let me know.


----------



## ez12a

some things i'd like to see in future designs if swiftech is going to pursue this market:

1. design a pump with 2 barbs on one side, this will probably improve compatibility with more motherboards.

2. instead of gluing the plate on the top pump, allow it to be removed and re-mountable in 90 degree turns. I removed mine and found that you can only flip it 180. Also broke one of the little pins holding the top plate as I was prying on it to reorient it. I was able to put it back to the original position without any problems.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Why do you have four PWM splitters?


I was going to run a bunch of Helix PWM fans in my SM8 + Pedestal but later changed my mind to GT AP-15 fans on an Aquaero 5.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> ... broke one of the little pins holding the top plate as I was prying on it to reorient it.


I started to pry it off but it felt so tight that I gave up for that exact reason. If I try again in the future I'll just be very careful.


----------



## Dhalmel

What performance difference would I see from the Thermalright Silver Arrow to the H220?

I love my SA, but I've grown tired of it's oversize mass and difficult installation in the case.

Oh, also what difference would I see from the H2O-X20 Elite Series? From what i understand the only difference is the pump/cpu block?


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> some things i'd like to see in future designs if swiftech is going to pursue this market:
> 
> 1. design a pump with 2 barbs on one side, this will probably improve compatibility with more motherboards.


This is the reason I'm not looking forward to installing on my ASRock Z77e-Itx. Probably going to have to turn it sideways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> Oh, also what difference would I see from the H2O-X20 Elite Series? From what i understand the only difference is the pump/cpu block?


This. From what I understand the Apogee II is very over-engineered (for many users) and a stronger pump. It costs $140 to buy separately. I still bought it because I like the looks better.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> This is the reason I'm not looking forward to installing on my ASRock Z77e-Itx. Probably going to have to turn it sideways.


Go back and read my mini review









You need low profile ram, the cooler will likely hit your chipset heatsink near the IO ports if you turn it sideways you block your PCIe. It fits, it just slightly touches the chipset heatsink.

I'll upload the pictures I took of it last night, right now I gotta figure out why my PCIe slot isn't working after my H220 install.. I got 2 freaking titans sitting collecting dust


----------



## WALSRU

My ram is pretty low profile so I shoooould be ok. Seems like the Apogee sits a bit higher too.


----------



## silkzim

Hi guys, someone already tried to put the h220 in a Corsair 600t with a sabertooth z77 without mod's?


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> in:


Looking good MadGoat - nice to see another RV02 / H220 combo. How did you 'fix' your H220 to the top of the case fans?


----------



## Neo Zuko

FYI, I could not fit the H220 at the bottom of my particular CaseLabs SM8 build. I have three 25mm thick FlexBay intakes and a bottom mounted AX1200i PSU. I'd have to remove the lowest FlexBay intake or relocate the PSU to make it work. I'm not doing that. So that leaves H220 mounting in a FlexBay 240 Radiator Mount or in the rad mounts up top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> FYI, I could not fit the H220 at the bottom of my particular CaseLabs SM8 build. I have three 25mm thick FlexBay front intakes and a bottom mounted AX1200i PSU. I'd have to remove the lowest FlexBay front intake or relocate the PSU to make it work. I'm not doing that. So that leaves H220 mounting in a 240 FlexBay front radiator mount or somewhere up top.


Was the difficulty due to the reservoir and the fittings on our kit, or would a standard 2x120mm fan radiator have difficulties as well because of the size of your power supply? I'm just curious in case others have issues with the same case.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMacheen*
> 
> In case any one has an NZXT Switch 810, the fit of the H220 is tricky with the fill port up. For now I have 2 Couger Vortex (only fans I had laying around) and the 2 stock Swiftech fans installed. The Vortex fans are holding the entire assembly as none of the standard mounting holes lined up due to the res/fill port part. I will most likely modify (ie, cutting a bit of metal out) the top of the case to mount everything properly in the near future.


Not quite sure what the issue is with the Switch 810 up top. I just finished retesting in the top location and all the screw holes line up fine up top. The bottom mount location I could only fit two screws, but the top worked for all 8. I actually only used 6, but 8 would have worked fine. See the photos below:


















FWIW, the reservoir should always be pointed "UP" on these. I understand if the unit is completely filled perfectly that you can get away with mounting it inverted, but reservoir up should be the standard practice. As fluid does evaporate or if you have any little pockets of air still in the system, you need the reservoir pointed up to trap the air properly.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Was the difficulty due to the reservoir and the fittings on our kit, or would a standard 2x120mm fan radiator have difficulties as well because of the size of your power supply? I'm just curious in case others have issues with the same case.


The bottom of my SM8 is configured with 4x120mm mounts spaced just right for rads. With 4 fans mounted there is still enough room for a lower mounted FlexBay fan mount. The PSU takes up 1.5 fan mounts plus a bit of room for cables, so you lose two fan mounts but no more than that. When test fitting the H220 both ways, the swivel fittings or the tank blocks the lowest FlexBay fan mount from fitting. However while you just can't have your cake and eat it too, the SM8 has loads of other options. It will fit down below with a AX1200i PSU, just not with a FlexBay item there - or you could move the PSU up top. It will fit in the FlexBays if you have room for a 240mm FlexBay rad mount besides your other planned bay equipment and planned top/bottom rad clearance. And it will fit up top too. It's just all about balance and making the most of the three sides of the case that you can configure.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> The bottom of my SM8 is configured with 4x120mm mounts spaced just right for rads. With 4 fans mounted there is still enough room for a lower mounted FlexBay fan mount. The PSU takes up 1.5 fan mounts plus a bit of room for cables, so you lose two fan mounts but no more than that. When test fitting the H220 both ways, the swivel fittings or the tank blocks the lowest FlexBay fan mount from fitting. However while you just can't have your cake and eat it too, the SM8 has loads of other options. It will fit down below with a AX1200i PSU, just not with a FlexBay item there - or you could move the PSU up top. It will fit in the FlexBays if you have room for a 240mm FlexBay rad mount besides your other planned bay equipment and planned top/bottom rad clearance. And it will fit up top too. It's just all about balance and making the most of the three sides of the case that you can configure.


Thanks for the info and for the picture. Hopefully others will find this information useful as well. + Rep.


----------



## thelude

Hey just got my H220







. Either I missed something, but do the system come pre-configured in push or pull? Thanks. Just wondering because adding some corsair SP120 to make it a push pull config.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey just got my H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Either I missed something, but do the system come pre-configured in push or pull? Thanks. Just wondering because adding some corsair SP120 to make it a push pull config.


The stock config of the H220 is push for the fans.
Are you talking about adding two SP120 to the two Swiftech fans? If so I am not sure it is a good idea to run two different sets of fans since they have different RPMs and static pressure.


----------



## thelude

Thanks. probably will get all 4 fans to be the same then. But for now only bought 2. I read the stronger static fans needs to be pushing..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Thanks. probably will get all 4 fans to be the same then. But for now only bought 2. I read the stronger static fans needs to be pushing..


Some of the H220 some are getting was coming in pull and other sin push. So check the fan mounting.
Higher static pressure is not needed for the H220 due to the low FPI. Even if you run the fans at same speed, both are very different in terms of specs.
Best to run only one set, not both as noise will be increased due to the difference in airflow.

I didnt like the SP120. Loud noise at any speed for the price it has, cue to motor used. Another is the fit on rads, seems there is a little air leakage due to the frame design on rads, unless you use gaskets to help.


----------



## thelude

Ill try with the different setup and see if noise or performance will be any different. Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

I'm ready to be added to the club!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> My ram is pretty low profile so I shoooould be ok. Seems like the Apogee sits a bit higher too.


It doesn't really. I have both. I know you have an ITX mobo, but I believe the DIMM spacing from the CPU is similar to the MVG I used to have. If you check out my Crucial Tracers review I posted earlier you can get an idea on clearance with the AD2.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExpertTrigger*
> 
> I'm ready to be added to the club!


Nice.
If possible, would you mind testing it with stock fans, two NF-F12 and push/pull NF-F12? I think people would be interested in those results.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

Quote:


> Nice.
> If possible, would you mind testing it with stock fans, two NF-F12 and push/pull NF-F12? I think people would be interested in those results.


I would love to but there's a problem. I'm still waiting on my 900D so it may take awhile to get those results! lol


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cheers mate. I'm not looking for anything overly scientific or perfect testing methodology, just a quick comparison at max rpm
> 
> I hear the Helix fans are pretty quiet anyway, I'll still use them somewhere else in my case, I'm sure.


Went ahead and tested my AP-15s again (w/ finger guards):


With the Helix (no finger guards):


at least in my testing the two are comparable, perhaps 1-2C difference all things exactly equal?

perhaps it's the mesh that is in between the fans and the radiator that is the equalizer. Some people might get better results with either fan.


----------



## kevindd992002

How do you install with the radiator "UP" ?


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Nice.
> If possible, would you mind testing it with stock fans, two NF-F12 and push/pull NF-F12? I think people would be interested in those results.


Look back a bit,
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/290#post_19503660

No push/pull yet, but that only helps by 2-3C anyway.

NF-F12s at 49Db (from 1") is 2C cooler over ambient then Helix at 50Db (from 1"). At 3ft, it was 25Db vs 30Db. The Helix fans make a lot of noise in a restrictive environment.

My other rad and a few other things came today. Waiting for my next package from Swiftech with more Hydrx2, and fittings to come. Due Tuesday. Going to make some graphs this weekend, then do expanded testing next week.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do you install with the radiator "UP" ?


what do you mean by "up"?

reservoir up or fill port up, something else?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Went ahead and tested my AP-15s again (w/ finger guards):
> 
> perhaps it's the mesh that is in between the fans and the radiator that is the equalizer. Some people might get better results with either fan.


You need to cut those grills out. First mod I did when I got my 600T. Along with the grill in front of the 200mm fan in the front of the case.








What a difference. Noise and cooling wise.








Also cut my rear grill out, and replaced it with a wire grill. I hate grills!


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Delivered and Installed today









i5 2500k: *4.5Ghz @ 1.3v*
Cooler Master HAFX
"Stock" cooler: Scythe Mugen 2
Ambient Temp: No Idea









Idle Temp *-11c*

Stock: 40c

H220: 29c (@20%)

Load Temp, Fans @ 100% *-15c*

Stock: 73c

H220: 58c

I am SUPER pleased with the results so far. After a couple minutes of gurgling at 100%, the H220 is now very quiet. According to my S3 it idles at around 40dB.
I was not expecting my CPU temps to drop that much, I got the H220 mainly for adding in my GPU. I might add it to the loop tonight... I am eager to see those results (Block installed and ready to go in the pic).


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> You need to cut those grills out. First mod I did when I got my 600T. Along with the grill in front of the 200mm fan in the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a difference. Noise and cooling wise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also cut my rear grill out, and replaced it with a wire grill. I hate grills!


haha i know..i just dont like the idea of taking a dremel to the pretty 600t lol.

but now that i see that the performance is so similar between the GTs and the Helix in an unmodified 600t, i left them in.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> 
> Delivered and Installed today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5 2500k: *4.5Ghz @ 1.3v*
> Cooler Master HAFX
> "Stock" cooler: Scythe Mugen 2
> Ambient Temp: No Idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle Temp *-11c*
> 
> Stock: 40c
> 
> H220: 29c (@20%)
> 
> Load Temp, Fans @ 100% *-15c*
> 
> Stock: 73c
> 
> H220: 58c
> 
> I am SUPER pleased with the results so far. After a couple minutes of gurgling at 100%, the H220 is now very quiet. According to my S3 it idles at around 40dB.
> I was not expecting my CPU temps to drop that much, I got the H220 mainly for adding in my GPU. I might add it to the loop tonight... I am eager to see those results (Block installed and ready to go in the pic).


Nice all you need now is 2 more Helix PWM to run P/P


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what do you mean by "up"?
> 
> reservoir up or fill port up, something else?


Well, here's the post of Martin: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/320#post_19508608 saying that you need to install the rad pointed "up". Any ideas?

Also, what are anti-kink coils used for?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> 
> Delivered and Installed today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5 2500k: *4.5Ghz @ 1.3v*
> Cooler Master HAFX
> "Stock" cooler: Scythe Mugen 2
> Ambient Temp: No Idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle Temp *-11c*
> 
> Stock: 40c
> 
> H220: 29c (@20%)
> 
> Load Temp, Fans @ 100% *-15c*
> 
> Stock: 73c
> 
> H220: 58c
> 
> I am SUPER pleased with the results so far. After a couple minutes of gurgling at 100%, the H220 is now very quiet. According to my S3 it idles at around 40dB.
> I was not expecting my CPU temps to drop that much, I got the H220 mainly for adding in my GPU. I might add it to the loop tonight... I am eager to see those results (Block installed and ready to go in the pic).


Nice!








But man, you need to do some cable management! LOL


----------



## Tom Thumb

Purolator messed up today. Should have been delivered but tracking says there was a Mechanical Delay!







WTH is that. I called, and they said I won't get it until tomorrow. Meanwhile it was scanned in at 8.22 a.m this morning and only about 20 minutes away!








They wouldn't let me pick it up either, because it's at the airport depot.








I hate Purolator!


----------



## ez12a

Retested Helixes in more similar conditions as GTs. Now it makes more sense.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But man, you need to do some cable management! LOL


Yes, yes I do haha







For the most part, I don't care how it looks on the inside. But I will clean it up after adding my GPU. It was neat before I had to remove the mobo and dremel my CPU cutout.
Saving up for a modular PSU








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Purolator messed up today. Should have been delivered but tracking says there was a Mechanical Delay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WTH is that. I called, and they said I won't get it until tomorrow. Meanwhile it was scanned in at 8.22 a.m this morning and only about 20 minutes away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They wouldn't let me pick it up either, because it's at the airport depot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate Purolator!


Sorry to hear that







Super lame!
I always choose Purolator, they leave deliveries on my porch when no one is home







Unlike Canada Post...


----------



## Yolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, here's the post of Martin: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/320#post_19508608 saying that you need to install the rad pointed "up". Any ideas?
> 
> Also, what are anti-kink coils used for?


I believe he means the fill port facing up.

And anti-kink coils are used to prevent kinks in your tubes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yolo*
> 
> I believe he means the fill port facing up.
> 
> And anti-kink coils are used to prevent kinks in your tubes.


Can you even install it with the fill port facing down? Won't the hoses interfere with the case that way?

Yeah, but how can one possibly have kinks in their hoses?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you even install it with the fill port facing down? Won't the hoses interfere with the case that way?
> 
> Yeah, but how can one possibly have kinks in their hoses?


The hoses are on swivel connecters. They spin all the way around.


----------



## Yolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you even install it with the fill port facing down? Won't the hoses interfere with the case that way?
> 
> Yeah, but how can one possibly have kinks in their hoses?


Yes you can install it with the fill port facing down. As seen in this pic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/120#post_19476164

And this should answer your questions about kinks:


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Retested Helixes in more similar conditions as GTs. Now it makes more sense.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cheers brah!
Repped

Edit: you're the guy who made the youtube videos! I recognize by the case haha, stumbled upon it when I was looking for H220 vids. U da man


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yolo*
> 
> Yes you can install it with the fill port facing down. As seen in this pic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/120#post_19476164


I personally wouldn't recommend it. Despite the filling machine efforts, I found both samples I had did have a tiny amount of air in the system. We also have at least one person in this thread that mentioned having bubble noise issues when inverted and that went away after making the reservoir upright. Adding a T line or separate reservoir certainly makes it a non issue, but I wouldn't recommend installing with the fill port pointing down otherwise.

Any air in the loop needs a trap ie reservoir or T line.

I have no personal long term experience, but I also think evaporation loss will eventually lead to air entering the system that also needs that trap. I would suggest keeping the reservoir point up or add a separate res/T line so you retain some sort of bubble trap capacity. My 2c


----------



## psikeiro

if anybody won't be using their swiftech helix fans that are included, let me know and I'll take them off your hands


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> The hoses are on swivel connecters. They spin all the way around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yolo*
> 
> Yes you can install it with the fill port facing down. As seen in this pic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/120#post_19476164
> 
> And this should answer your questions about kinks:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I personally wouldn't recommend it. Despite the filling machine efforts, I found both samples I had did have a tiny amount of air in the system. We also have at least one person in this thread that mentioned having bubble noise issues when inverted and that went away after making the reservoir upright. Adding a T line or separate reservoir certainly makes it a non issue, but I wouldn't recommend installing with the fill port pointing down otherwise.
> 
> Any air in the loop needs a trap ie reservoir or T line.
> 
> I have no personal long term experience, but I also think evaporation loss will eventually lead to air entering the system that also needs that trap. I would suggest keeping the reservoir point up or add a separate res/T line so you retain some sort of bubble trap capacity. My 2c


Got it. Thanks guys!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Looking good MadGoat - nice to see another RV02 / H220 combo. How did you 'fix' your H220 to the top of the case fans?


Use the included rad brackets.

Screwd the PSU side bracket to the 180 fan mount holes...


----------



## jchambers2586

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> if anybody won't be using their swiftech helix fans that are included, let me know and I'll take them off your hands


they are yours I am using noctua nff12 fans in pull.


----------



## witeboy07

So as my first efforts in water cooling with this loop, i went ahead and ordered some PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing - 3/8in. ID x 5/8in. OD. Should go great with my blue led fans. Plus I got some extra for when im ready to add my 7870 to the line, maybe ill upgrade to a 7970 once i sell my 7870 tahiti and my asus m5a99x evo mobo.. Cant wait to expand to another radiator and a bigger full tower case..


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> So as my first efforts in water cooling with this loop, i went ahead and ordered some PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing - 3/8in. ID x 5/8in. OD. Should go great with my blue led fans. Plus I got some extra for when im ready to add my 7870 to the line, maybe ill upgrade to a 7970 once i sell my 7870 tahiti and my asus m5a99x evo mobo.. Cant wait to expand to another radiator and a bigger full tower case..


i'm blinded, can't see anything =S


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Not quite sure what the issue is with the Switch 810 up top. I just finished retesting in the top location and all the screw holes line up fine up top. The bottom mount location I could only fit two screws, but the top worked for all 8. I actually only used 6, but 8 would have worked fine. See the photos below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, the reservoir should always be pointed "UP" on these. I understand if the unit is completely filled perfectly that you can get away with mounting it inverted, but reservoir up should be the standard practice. As fluid does evaporate or if you have any little pockets of air still in the system, you need the reservoir pointed up to trap the air properly.


that is exactly how mine is set up, except for mine it setup for push pull. 2 fans do fit on the bottom (just barely above the cpu plugs) with an Asus Maximus Formula V mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I personally wouldn't recommend it. Despite the filling machine efforts, I found both samples I had did have a tiny amount of air in the system. We also have at least one person in this thread that mentioned having bubble noise issues when inverted and that went away after making the reservoir upright. Adding a T line or separate reservoir certainly makes it a non issue, but I wouldn't recommend installing with the fill port pointing down otherwise.
> 
> Any air in the loop needs a trap ie reservoir or T line.
> 
> I have no personal long term experience, but I also think evaporation loss will eventually lead to air entering the system that also needs that trap. I would suggest keeping the reservoir point up or add a separate res/T line so you retain some sort of bubble trap capacity. My 2c


That was me. Only one persons experience but all noise went away within a couple of minutes when I put the fill port to the top. Previously I had it facing down and the bubble sound did not get any better after a 3 hour leak test. Not only that but it felt like the pump was struggling to move water and at times "bursted" the water through the tubes, instead of a nice steady flow. Again, as soon as I flipped the fill port facing up that problem went away also.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I personally wouldn't recommend it. Despite the filling machine efforts, I found both samples I had did have a tiny amount of air in the system. We also have at least one person in this thread that mentioned having bubble noise issues when inverted and that went away after making the reservoir upright. Adding a T line or separate reservoir certainly makes it a non issue, but I wouldn't recommend installing with the fill port pointing down otherwise.
> 
> Any air in the loop needs a trap ie reservoir or T line.
> 
> I have no personal long term experience, but I also think evaporation loss will eventually lead to air entering the system that also needs that trap. I would suggest keeping the reservoir point up or add a separate res/T line so you retain some sort of bubble trap capacity. My 2c


You are certainly right that having a bubble trap is the ideal solution. That said ... isn't every AIO unit save the H220 a res-less system, and don't they seem to work okay without a bubble trap?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> You are certainly right that having a bubble trap is the ideal solution. That said ... isn't every AIO unit save the H220 a res-less system, and don't they seem to work okay without a bubble trap?


Good point! Wish I knew the answer.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Good point! Wish I knew the answer.


They probably do have bubble traps in the radiator assembly.


----------



## prava

I spell can't believe people buy Noctua fans









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Purolator messed up today. Should have been delivered but tracking says there was a Mechanical Delay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WTH is that. I called, and they said I won't get it until tomorrow. Meanwhile it was scanned in at 8.22 a.m this morning and only about 20 minutes away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They wouldn't let me pick it up either, because it's at the airport depot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate Purolator!


Purolator? lulz, the name doesn't seem serious at all XD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> You are certainly right that having a bubble trap is the ideal solution. That said ... isn't every AIO unit save the H220 a res-less system, and don't they seem to work okay without a bubble trap?


They should, which is weird about Swiftech's production. Maybe being modular makes production different than other design's and thus this flaw.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I spell can't believe people buy Noctua fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purolator? lulz, the name doesn't seem serious at all XD


Yeah... every time I see this, I have to remind myself that he's NOT talking about an oil filter...









Thanks - T


----------



## justanoldman

The problem with buying Noctua fans is....?


----------



## ez12a

if someone's concerned about bubbles, perhaps they can try filling the res to the brim when they get it?

if i'm not mistaken the bit of air in there is for heat expansion room. at least that's the excuse for the Hydro series coolers and their gurgling.


----------



## silkzim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silkzim*
> 
> Hi guys, someone already tried to put the h220 in a Corsair 600t with a sabertooth z77 without mod's?


----------



## muSPK

Anyone know if the Swiftech H220 fits in a Fractal Design R3 case?


----------



## kevindd992002

And in the haf922 case?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muSPK*
> 
> Anyone know if the Swiftech H220 fits in a Fractal Design R3 case?


If it's the same dimensions as the R4, and it has the same offset 120mm fan holes on top, then the answer is yes but. Yes, it will fit, but you may have to mount with the fans below depending upon which motherboard you're using. It will only fit that way in my R4 with Asus Sabertooth X79. Swiftech found the same thing using their test Gigabyte board. But I've seen it mounted with fans on top with an AMD board (Overclockers.com review).


----------



## muSPK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> If it's the same dimensions as the R4, and it has the same offset 120mm fan holes on top, then the answer is yes but. Yes, it will fit, but you may have to mount with the fans below depending upon which motherboard you're using. It will only fit that way in my R4 with Asus Sabertooth X79. Swiftech found the same thing using their test Gigabyte board. But I've seen it mounted with fans on top with an AMD board (Overclockers.com review).


I think it looks aweful tight if I were to place a 240 radiator at top:



I got a M;SI z68A-GD65 (G3) motherboard,


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And in the haf922 case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muSPK*
> 
> Anyone know if the Swiftech H220 fits in a Fractal Design R3 case?


We have yet to get these cases in for compatibility testing. As soon as we do though we'll post pictures on our website. I'll also do my best to let both of you know about your respective cases.


----------



## Caos

hello, where I can buy the h220? amazon is selling not in swiftech.com is out of stock


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, where I can buy the h220? amazon is selling not in swiftech.com is out of stock


http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=79583&vpn=H220&manufacture=Swiftech


----------



## Magnum26

Anyone from the UK got one of these yet? I can't find them anywhere


----------



## navit

Any news on units with white tubing??


----------



## Caos

thanks in amazon is not going to sell?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Anyone from the UK got one of these yet? I can't find them anywhere


only found 3 places selling them in the uk and they are all out of stock now

but keep an eye out for new stock on

overclock.co.uk

specialtech.co.uk

tekheads.co.uk

if any one knows of any other uk sites selling them please pipe up


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Any news on units with white tubing??


Those will be coming...... soon.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> thanks in amazon is not going to sell?


According to Swiftech peeps, they have no deal with Amz for product sales, so no, they won't be a reseller.

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> According to Swiftech peeps, they have no deal with Amz for product sales, so no, they won't be a reseller.
> 
> Thanks - T


That's true, but retailers that sell our products could put the H220 on Amazon. So far this hasn't happened though.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Use the included rad brackets.
> 
> Screwd the PSU side bracket to the 180 fan mount holes...


I want to clarify this a bit as I've been getting a couple questions on the subject,

I used the included rad brackets that are originally intended for use with a 360 rad for the 240 rad of the H220. In doing so, this only allows one bracket to align with fan mounting holes leaving the other bracket to "float" or be used more as a "stand".

I hope these pictures will help:


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's true, but retailers that sell our products could put the H220 on Amazon. So far this hasn't happened though.


Yeah, I've been looking regularly, but no such luck.
I have literally nothing to do at work now, so all I do is sit on my OCN subs page ad hit refresh...









Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Yeah, I've been looking regularly, but no such luck.
> I have literally nothing to do at work now, so all I do is sit on my OCN subs page ad hit refresh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I wish my job was like that more often. Though on slow days I do get off early and still make the same (salary) so it's kinda the same deal







.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I wish my job was like that more often. Though on slow days I do get off early and still make the same (salary) so it's kinda the same deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I think you win that round


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cheers brah!
> Repped
> 
> Edit: you're the guy who made the youtube videos! I recognize by the case haha, stumbled upon it when I was looking for H220 vids. U da man


ty, glad to see they were helpful!


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The problem with buying Noctua fans is....?


They are simply overpriced fans, nothing else... they aren't even the top dog noise/performance.


----------



## Scorpion667

I wanna smack NCIX. They forgot to put my apartment number on the package, just like my last three orders from them. Could of had it today. Those bastards.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I wanna smack NCIX. They forgot to put my apartment number on the package, just like my last three orders from them. Could of had it today. Those bastards.


How could they forget? The address you have on your account is what will be sent too.
So I would check the info first.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> They are simply overpriced fans, nothing else... they aren't even the top dog noise/performance.


What are? In your opinion?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I wanna smack NCIX. They forgot to put my apartment number on the package, just like my last three orders from them. Could of had it today. Those bastards.


Ya well get this. Mine was suppose to be delivered yesterday, but there was a "Mechanical Failure" what ever that is. Then today when the truck came by, I missed him by a 1/2 hour because I went to lunch with the wife! DOH!!! Now I have to pick it up tomorrow after 10:00 a.m at the Purolator store. Man, it's like someone doesn't want me to have this thing!


----------



## Klubhead

Well... my order with Sidewinder fell through, they're inventory didn't update and my order still went through when they were actually out of stock.. (sales rep I talked to was awesome about the whole situation, great customer support)

Sooo anyone know who has stock left??


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Hi hi All

Please anyone can tell me the shipping weight of this glorius AIO H220


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noob_with_Tools*
> 
> Hi hi All
> 
> Please anyone can tell me the shipping weight of this glorius AIO H220


Shipping weight is 8 pounds.


----------



## JoshME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> What are? In your opinion?


Yeah I would really like to know if anyone has any suggestions for top of the line silent radiator fans that don't look as ugly as the noctuas for my sexy h220


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> What are? In your opinion?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> Yeah I would really like to know if anyone has any suggestions for top of the line silent radiator fans that don't look as ugly as the noctuas for my sexy h220


Scythe Gentle Typhoon. You can't beat their performance/noise on radiators.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Well... my order with Sidewinder fell through, they're inventory didn't update and my order still went through when they were actually out of stock.. (sales rep I talked to was awesome about the whole situation, great customer support)
> 
> Sooo anyone know who has stock left??


http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=79583&vpn=H220&manufacture=Swiftech


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Anyone from the UK got one of these yet? I can't find them anywhere


I got my one a week ago just use google shopping; I ordered from Overclock.co.uk last Thursday and received the item last Saturday and so far so good.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> Yeah I would really like to know if anyone has any suggestions for top of the line silent radiator fans that don't look as ugly as the noctuas for my sexy h220


Depends. If you have a restrictive air filter, you will want a directed airflow type fan like the NF-F12 or Silverstone air penetrator series. The Scythe GTs generate low noise with good rad performance, but many complain of a high pitch noise from them, and they are not directed airflow.
If you have a large opening or nothing block the fans, then that doesnt matter.

If you get the Noctuas, you can dye them.
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=35185


----------



## TeeBlack

I wonder how the NoiseBlocker eLoop and Bitfenix Spectre Pro pwm fans compare the Helix fans? The NF-F12 fans are good just hate the color of those things. GT AP15s speak for themselves but me personally i prefer pwm fans.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

(Maybe)
So I got around to adding in my GPU last night. Everything seemed to go well, but something happened to it. Not to sure what, but since I put on the Koolance block it is completely unstable under any kind of load. I can't even plug in two monitors since that loads up the RAM and it will reboot shortly after logging in. It idles at around 35c, cooler than stock. But under even 15% load at stock specs, the temps go up to 55c. If I apply my OC, it reboots. The heat spikes under even the smallest load.

I thought maybe some of Koolance's conductive paste got on the card else where, but I couldn't see anything after taking it apart. I don't recall accidentally jabbing it with anything, I can't find any noticeable damage.
I have spent alot of time bleeding the loop and am doubtful an air bubble in the block is the cause.
I will check out my mobo for any damage later.

All I can think it that the card is FUBAR. I am lost and a bit gutted right now.
Edit: The DVI port has intermittent signal issues now... HDMI is fine. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu--


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Maybe)
> So I got around to adding in my GPU last night. Everything seemed to go well, but something happened to it. Not to sure what, but since I put on the Koolance block it is completely unstable under any kind of load. I can't even plug in two monitors since that loads up the RAM and it will reboot shortly after logging in. It idles at around 35c, cooler than stock. But under even 15% load at stock specs, the temps go up to 55c. If I apply my OC, it reboots. The heat spikes under even the smallest load.
> 
> I thought maybe some of Koolance's conductive paste got on the card else where, but I couldn't see anything after taking it apart. I don't recall accidentally jabbing it with anything, I can't find any noticeable damage.
> I have spent alot of time bleeding the loop and am doubtful an air bubble in the block is the cause.
> I will check out my mobo for any damage later.
> 
> All I can think it that the card is FUBAR. I am lost and a bit gutted right now.
> 
> Anyone wish to impart some wisdom?


Is your version has 6+6 or 6+8 pci connector?
Thinking maybe you not tighten correctly and not getting proper contact.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is your version has 6+6 or 6+8 pci connector?
> Thinking maybe you not tighten correctly and not getting proper contact.


6+8. But there seems to some signal issues that improper contact can't cause. My DVI port has intermittent signal now while HDMI is fine.


----------



## muSPK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We have yet to get these cases in for compatibility testing. As soon as we do though we'll post pictures on our website. I'll also do my best to let both of you know about your respective cases.


Thank you sir, looking forward for the result.


----------



## Skullwipe

Hey guys, on the fence about ordering an H220 and was hoping you could help me make up my mind.

At the moment I have a Haf XM, and my concern is that I won't be able to fit the radiator inside with the reservoir in the proper up position. From what I've measured I should be able to put the radiator on top, then use a gasket and mount the fans inside.

The debate begins here, I can get a Storm Trooper case for a bargain. From what I've seen that would allow me to mount an H220 on either the top or the bottom with no issues. I'm not sure if I'm going to add to the loop, so that's not really a factor at this time. Just wondering what you guys think my best option is.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Installed my H220. Swiftech has the best mounting system I've ever used by far.







Some bent fins, but we are covering them up with fans anyway. I wish they were straighter though. All that matters is the better performance in the end. The H100i has aluminum fins, the H220 is copper!!





I'm going with push pull GT AP-15 fans. I have six of them an they perform nice on rads with good static pressure. I put the Swiftech fans in the bottom of the case for intakes. I set up my H220 as an exhaust. Sure that is not as nice as cold air coming into the rad but it makes more sense to vent the heat up. I have all the other fans blowing in for positive pressure to help fight dust.



I used the 8 silver 30mm bolts that came with the H220 to mount the fans (after I begged a neighbor for a thin Phillips Driver to remove the Swiftech Helix PWM fans). I used two a fan diagonally. For the bolts going through the SM8's top rad drop-in mount I simply used the bolts bare. The additional thickness of the drop-in mount was ideal. For the bolts going through just a fan to the H220's rad, the bolts seemed a hair too long. Since I had removed the H220's non-socket 2011 hardware and installed the socket 2011 spring bolts, I had 4 nylon retention spacers I could repurpose. Worked like a charm.



I use the mounting bar to hide the H220's tubing and my MSI 680 Lightning's cables. I wanted the H220's tubing to not block the view of the pump. I think I did ok but I felt the tubing was a couple of inches too long. It was too short to use down below but too long to be useful up top. You can of course shorten it but I'm certainly not doing that now - and that's no reason to not make it ideal out of the box. And if I rotate the H220 res/fittings up top in that forward position it can't reach the CPU. If I put it in the far back, the case wall blocks it. So really I have only two options up here on the SM8's roof, middle facing either way or forward facing one way.





Drop-in mounts for the SM8 makes things so much easier to install. As you can see, the fill port is ideally located in this position and you could still use all four fan positions. Because the drop in mount is shifted back more than the floor mounts in this case I can also mount a front FlexBay fan up top. You could not do this with the H220 mounted in the same position below.







I had some Noctua TIM laying around. I used that as it is non-curing, non-conductive, performs good, and spreads nice. I personally use a hospital glove, the super stretchy kind. It spreads at first but then the glove will start mopping it back up as it starts to turn tacky. So I kind of start with an ample amount and use that tackiness to paint in reverse. It results in a micro fine layer but if you wait a moment too long it gets too tacky and picks up everything. So I could not photo document the process on the actual CPU.











Look at what my Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitters lets me replace.

This...



... or this.





Having four Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitters is actually very handy. I don't need all those channels (right now) but having four allows all my fans to reach a channel better. This reduces my need for fan extension cables to just about zero. Whenever I go to PWM fans I will be set. In the meantime my non-PWM GT AP-15s are not that bad at full blast on these adapters. When I can afford that Aquaero 5 I'll have to rethink my cable-fu.

If only there was a way to connect the Aquaero's 3-pin fan power cables and voltage control functionality to the Swiftech adapters molex. I found this page at FrozenCPU but I'm not sure if any of those adapters would connect the two products and work the way I'm thinking:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c251/s634/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Cables-3_Pin_Adapters-Page1.html

That way you could take out the middle adapter and leave the Swiftech Adapters in place if you ever upgrade to PWM. I like it when it's modular.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Hey guys, on the fence about ordering an H220 and was hoping you could help me make up my mind.
> 
> At the moment I have a Haf XM, and my concern is that I won't be able to fit the radiator inside with the reservoir in the proper up position. From what I've measured I should be able to put the radiator on top, then use a gasket and mount the fans inside.
> 
> The debate begins here, I can get a Storm Trooper case for a bargain. From what I've seen that would allow me to mount an H220 on either the top or the bottom with no issues. I'm not sure if I'm going to add to the loop, so that's not really a factor at this time. Just wondering what you guys think my best option is.


With the XM you can mount in the front, but the res is facing towards the rear of case. I'm not sure on the top panel, as no proper mounting, just for 200mm fan only.
Lets see what reps have to say about this? Mounting horizontally with res facing rear of case.

What kind of bargain can you get the Trooper for? If less then $100US good, if not look at Fractal Arc Midi R2.


----------



## TechSilver13

NZXT Phantom 820 is my case, it fits.


----------



## Pogi

There is currently one Swiftech H220 available on Amazon (sold by FrozenCPU) for $150.

http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Liquid-Cooling/dp/B00BMMMRKG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1363324961&sr=8-3&keywords=swiftech+helix


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820 is my case, it fits.


Wicked build. Drooling hard atm


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT Phantom 820 is my case, it fits.
> 
> 
> 
> Wicked build. Drooling hard atm
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nomargat

Hello everyone. I'm new to this site.







I was searching about the Swiftech H220 and found this forum. I decided to buy this watercooler in a couple of months to mount in the front section of my Fractal R4. The case has a fan control switch in the front panel that can control up to 3 fans in 3 different speeds. But from what I've read the Helix fans are PWM and don't work correctly by changing the voltage, did I understand that right? If so, I'll just use the PWM header on my motherboard then.
Also, how are the Gelid UV fans, those look pretty nice, are they good for static pressure?
Another question, I notice a Swiftech employee state a white hose variant coming soon? If so, that's great, it'll look great.







Does it also have a white shrouding around the fins, or will it still be black? Thanks!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomargat*
> 
> Hello everyone. I'm new to this site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was searching about the Swiftech H220 and found this forum. I decided to buy this watercooler in a couple of months to mount in the front section of my Fractal R4. The case has a fan control switch in the front panel that can control up to 3 fans in 3 different speeds. But from what I've read the Helix fans are PWM and don't work correctly by changing the voltage, did I understand that right? If so, I'll just use the PWM header on my motherboard then.
> Also, how are the Gelid UV fans, those look pretty nice, are they good for static pressure?
> Another question, I notice a Swiftech employee state a white hose variant coming soon? If so, that's great, it'll look great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it also have a white shrouding around the fins, or will it still be black? Thanks!


I think that they would only go black with white accents judging by past products. You can always put on white tubing yourself, I suggest this one by far:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A9ZDJ40/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1363327355&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

You can voltage control PWM fans but they may or may not be pleasing sound wise that way and may possibly click. They are designed to run at 12 volts all the time and be controlled via PWM signals and work with software or bios to automatically change speeds. Really that's the better way if they are PWM fans. I'm going to tell you to buy the non-PWM GT AP-15 fans cus I'm into them, however there are a few PWM options that are nice, the Swiftech Helix PWM fans are nice, but I don't remember which other good PWM models are out there. Noise Blocker brand possibly. Anything with good static pressure and performance to sound ratio.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the XM you can mount in the front, but the res is facing towards the rear of case. I'm not sure on the top panel, as no proper mounting, just for 200mm fan only.
> Lets see what reps have to say about this? Mounting horizontally with res facing rear of case.
> 
> What kind of bargain can you get the Trooper for? If less then $100US good, if not look at Fractal Arc Midi R2.


I've seen 240mm radiators strapped to the drive cages, but for some reason the 120mm fan mounts are offset, meaning I'd have to use zip ties.

I like the look of that Fractal Arc Midi R2, just wish it was slightly larger. Might have to throw that one into the running. I'm also looking at the Bitfenix Ghost, it looks pretty nice.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the XM you can mount in the front, but the res is facing towards the rear of case. I'm not sure on the top panel, as no proper mounting, just for 200mm fan only.
> Lets see what reps have to say about this? Mounting horizontally with res facing rear of case.
> 
> What kind of bargain can you get the Trooper for? If less then $100US good, if not look at Fractal Arc Midi R2.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen 240mm radiators strapped to the drive cages, but for some reason the 120mm fan mounts are offset, meaning I'd have to use zip ties.
> 
> I like the look of that Fractal Arc Midi R2, just wish it was slightly larger. Might have to throw that one into the running. I'm also looking at the Bitfenix Ghost, it looks pretty nice.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of a different case when you mentioned the HAF XM. Was thinking oh the HAF XB instead. So ignore my layout.
The Midi R2 is small, but gives you plenty of room. Very good layout for dual rads. You can see it in my profile.


----------



## gsk3rd

Here is mine.



I am going to remount with the fill port on the top and hopefully fit another pull set of sp120s inside the case. If not I will have to mount them on top.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Hey guys, on the fence about ordering an H220 and was hoping you could help me make up my mind.
> 
> At the moment I have a Haf XM, and my concern is that I won't be able to fit the radiator inside with the reservoir in the proper up position. From what I've measured I should be able to put the radiator on top, then use a gasket and mount the fans inside.
> 
> The debate begins here, I can get a Storm Trooper case for a bargain. From what I've seen that would allow me to mount an H220 on either the top or the bottom with no issues. I'm not sure if I'm going to add to the loop, so that's not really a factor at this time. Just wondering what you guys think my best option is.


got a storm trooper

very good case

to fit the h220 in the top you wont be able to do push/pull due to the handle

to fit it in the bottom i think you need to remove the ssd cage and possibly the drawer and bottom hard drive cage

could also fit it in the front by removing both hard drive cages


----------



## guinner16

ALMOST DONE. I will be getting my fan extensions and 5 way splitters today to finish the build. This is a pic after i flipped the h220 over so the fill port was facing up. Sorry for the poor pic quality and the lighting. My shop area is lit 10x more than an emergency room.


----------



## Equilibrium

frustrated.
finally found the time to fit the h220 into my rig.
nothing. dead on arrival. great.
did i mention frustration?
back at the boxed cooler.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Equilibrium*
> 
> frustrated.
> finally found the time to fit the h220 into my rig.
> nothing. dead on arrival. great.
> did i mention frustration?
> back at the boxed cooler.


Seems to be some quality control problems at the Chinese factory. I had the same thing and so did another poster. My replacement unit arrives today. Fingers crossed.

This time -- and my advice to anyone getting a new unit -- I will test run the H220 *before* I remove my air cooler and mount the rad/block.


----------



## DMills

So I've got my fx6100 rig back to stock settings after installing the H220 with 2 extra no-name brand fans--18.5º Celsius @ idle!!!!
I've got my rad mounted on the bottom of my case, (which is now lifted 3" with some home depot legs) sucking in air off the cold tile floor, which is probably why its colder than my room is

can't wait to get my second h220 for my other pc :-D
stock back up swiftech!


----------



## Eustia

I'm planing to connet the H220 to my VGA, What's the tube ID OD should I use?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eustia*
> 
> I'm planing to connet the H220 to my VGA, What's the tube ID OD should I use?


3/8 5/8.


----------



## SDBolts619

So...

Got home from work yesterday and got a boot failure on my system. Got into BIOS and... 88 degree CPU, no CPU fan speed being read. Opened up the case, felt the H220 head unit, nada.









Called Swiftech, talked to Stephen, who was very nice and helpful. A couple of quick checks verified my pump died. Stephen quickly set up the RMA and Michelle literally ran out the door to UPS to try to beat the cutoff and get my replacement unit out. Great service! Hopefully my replacement unit will arrive today. Thanks a bunch Stephen and Michelle - you rock!


----------



## shellbunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Seems to be some quality control problems at the Chinese factory. I had the same thing and so did another poster. My replacement unit arrives today. Fingers crossed.
> 
> This time -- and my advice to anyone getting a new unit -- I will test run the H220 *before* I remove my air cooler and mount the rad/block.


My pump is intermittently making odd noises, so I'm starting to wonder if it's going to die.
Anyone know the latest we can RMA this? Last night it was making a loud grinding/buzzing noise, and that was with every fan turned off, so I know it was the pump.
But this morning it's quiet. It seems to be random.
Weird.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shellbunner*
> 
> My pump is intermittently making odd noises, so I'm starting to wonder if it's going to die.
> Anyone know the latest we can RMA this? Last night it was making a loud grinding/buzzing noise, and that was with every fan turned off, so I know it was the pump.
> But this morning it's quiet. It seems to be random.
> Weird.


Give Swiftech a call. There may be QC issues with the product but Swiftech's customer support is fantastic.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> So...
> 
> Got home from work yesterday and got a boot failure on my system. Got into BIOS and... 88 degree CPU, no CPU fan speed being read. Opened up the case, felt the H220 head unit, nada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Called Swiftech, talked to Stephen, who was very nice and helpful. A couple of quick checks verified my pump died. Stephen quickly set up the RMA and Michelle literally ran out the door to UPS to try to beat the cutoff and get my replacement unit out. Great service! Hopefully my replacement unit will arrive today. Thanks a bunch Stephen and Michelle - you rock!


Screenshot or it never happened.

Erm... Youtube or it never happened?


----------



## ez12a

eh i hope this isnt a common problem. *knock on wood*


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> eh i hope this isnt a common problem. *knock on wood*


Mine cropped up as soon as I installed my H220. The slot just, is not on. You seemed to get past that barrier, so good luck!


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Screenshot or it never happened.
> 
> Erm... Youtube or it never happened?


LOL. Yeah, videoing the process never occurred to me...

On the positive side, it gave me some downtime where I could work on a bit of cabling and case cleanup since I couldn't play. I relocated the SATA power push in connectors for my optical drives and resleeved part of that cable, rerouted the cables all the case fans (except the one under the HDD cage, which wouldn't reach) to the Swiftech PWM splitter and sleeved my front panel connectors... And shortened up the hoses for the H220 so there won't be so much extra hose in the case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Screenshot or it never happened.
> 
> Erm... Youtube or it never happened?


I can confirm that it happened, is that good enough?


----------



## SDelong

I can safely say that the H220 will NOT fit in a Thermaltake MS-I case in a push/pull setup. Ends up covering the CPU socket.
Would I see any negative impact from not running the rear top exhaust fan to route the lines through it?


----------



## Klubhead

Still no luck finding a unit in stock









Anyone come across one lately?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm that it happened, is that good enough?


I guess it will have to







lol


----------



## SDBolts619

Got an email from Michelle @ Swiftech this morning with all my info including my UPS tracking. She did make it to UPS before the cutoff and it's out for delivery today here in San Diego!

Thanks again folks @ Swiftech!


----------



## Scorpion667

I'm stoked brahs. I should have mine today.

My 3930k is awkwardly concave (pic below) and it never liked my h100 which has a very flat base (check with razor). I'm quite stoked to see if the slightly bowed design on the copper plate will mate well with my 3930k. On the h100 the ONLY way to get acceptable temps was to use Indigo extreme to fill that awkward gap.. And I hate using Indigo Extreme (it's really good but application is a pain).

Look at this dirty concave, it's not even in the middle!


----------



## iZeeZO

Hi all ^^
i just want to ask if any one try to install the H220 in Aerocool X-predator black ??








I have the case and i want the H220 cooler , but I'm not sure if it will fit in my case


----------



## $ilent

the h220 isnt out yet is it?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> the h220 isnt out yet is it?


.....

Check the unboxing pics, my friend!

Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> the h220 isnt out yet is it?


lol scroll up to the Recent Images on the right side. We all gots one!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> the h220 isnt out yet is it?


The H220 is out and well... A lot of us enjoying it's greatness as we speak !


----------



## $ilent

Maybe in the USA, cant find it in my country


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Maybe in the USA, cant find it in my country


They will carry it
http://www.overclock.co.uk/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iZeeZO*
> 
> Hi all ^^
> i just want to ask if any one try to install the H220 in Aerocool X-predator black ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the case and i want the H220 cooler , but I'm not sure if it will fit in my case


There is different versions of the X-Predator for different regions. You will need the exact model of the one you have.
If you can mount 120mm fans on top, then you measure the mounting spacing if it is 15mm center-to-center mounting hole in between fans.
Also measure the height to your mobo.
There is diagrams on swiftech site for dimensions.


----------



## GioV

Just got the H220 2 days ago! I'm extremely happy with it and its a huge improvement over my CM 212. Unfortunately I had to put the fans on top of my old HAF 922. Anyone have a good mid tower that can fit the H220 with a mobo that has a large heatsink? (MSI Mpower z77)


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Just got the H220 2 days ago! I'm extremely happy with it and its a huge improvement over my CM 212. Unfortunately I had to put the fans on top of my old HAF 922. Anyone have a good mid tower that can fit the H220 with a mobo that has a large heatsink? (MSI Mpower z77)


hey man, grats on the h220. could you take pics of your setup and radiator mounting? a member here PMed me about fitment in the 922 and I only tried it with 2 screws and it seemed to fit.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Maybe in the USA, cant find it in my country


so far have seen 3 retailers in the uk selling it

all out of stock at the moment

but they were

overclock.co.uk

tekheads.co.uk

specialtech.co.uk


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Just got the H220 2 days ago! I'm extremely happy with it and its a huge improvement over my CM 212. Unfortunately I had to put the fans on top of my old HAF 922. Anyone have a good mid tower that can fit the H220 with a mobo that has a large heatsink? (MSI Mpower z77)


Fractal Arc Midi R2. $100 and supports dual 240 rads easily.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> The H220 is out and well... A lot of us enjoying it's greatness as we speak !


Except for the Few who had some Dead pump's. Quality control seems to be a big problem in today's world since everything is made in China







.
Luckily They seem to have good customer support in the States









I hope they work out the kinks with the h320 so i can start a new thread for the h320 club members


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> so far have seen 3 retailers in the uk selling it
> 
> all out of stock at the moment
> 
> but they were
> 
> overclock.co.uk
> 
> tekheads.co.uk
> 
> specialtech.co.uk


Yeah so they dont have it, they have just put it on thier stock list. I doubt they are al OoS at same time.


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> hey man, grats on the h220. could you take pics of your setup and radiator mounting? a member here PMed me about fitment in the 922 and I only tried it with 2 screws and it seemed to fit.




I'm going for a Black/Yellow scheme and its still work in progress (can only afford so much on a college budget). The Mpower mobo didn't let me place the radiator and fans together, luckily I'm in the market for a new case specifically one with black interior and a side window if anyone has any recommendations.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Yeah so they dont have it, they have just put it on thier stock list. I doubt they are al OoS at same time.


no they actually did have them in stock

i was told specialtech sold out very quickly

but overclock.co.uk and tekheads actually took about a week to sell theirs

i watched the stock go down on both those sites but still couldnt decide whether to get one or wait for a few more actual user reviews

i am in no great rush--sometimes its better to wait just in case of teething problems with the 1st consumer units


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Except for the Few who had some Dead pump's. Quality control seems to be a big problem in today's world since everything is made in China
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Luckily They seem to have good customer support in the States
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope they work out the kinks with the h320 so i can start a new thread for the h320 club members


Not sure, there have been like 4-5 reported in this thread / the news thread... how many units sold? There is always a margin for error when you mass manufacture, and we were all excited about this products release, so we're more likely to share our product experience.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> Here is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to remount with the fill port on the top and hopefully fit another pull set of sp120s inside the case. If not I will have to mount them on top.


Nice, how close to the ram is the fitting is? I didn't like the SP120 fans, just not designed for rads. As you can see there is no proper seal to it. There is a gap in between so air can pass through. If you can find gaskets for that shape, will help.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Fractal Arc Midi R2. $100 and supports dual 240 rads easily.


I'd just like to repeat this. If anyone isn't confident about their case, and wants a mid tower to put the h220 in, the Arc Midi R2 is the best for water cooling. I'm willing to say that, no questions. It can easily fit 60mm dual 240 rads up top, and 60 mm 240 rads in front, maybe even 280(although 280 will be tight). If you want to do some minor modding, you can remove the bay at the top and have a 360 rad up top.

I decided to try a different paste, just to compare it to the swiftech stuff. My prolimatech PK-1 got about a degree higher temps. With mounting differences I'd say it's within margin of error. Was just curious, and had some free time. I'll probably put the swiftech stuff back on this weekend, I'm probably going to play around with fan configurations and see what how much intake/exhaust effect temps, and maybe even try to mount the rad in the front just to see what that does. All depends on how much time I have.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for a Black/Yellow scheme and its still work in progress (can only afford so much on a college budget). The Mpower mobo didn't let me place the radiator and fans together, luckily I'm in the market for a new case specifically one with black interior and a side window if anyone has any recommendations.


Fractal Design Arc Midi R2...This case is pretty good! Speed junky and I recommend it! I don't think its out on the market yet but soon will be. Newegg has it in stock! You can mount the swiftech in the front or on the top of the case.









Here is a video


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Not sure, there have been like 4-5 reported in this thread / the news thread... how many units sold? There is always a margin for error when you mass manufacture, and we were all excited about this products release, so we're more likely to share our product experience.


Of course, H220 was designed and marketed towards the enthusiast rather than the general public. So problems will be more likely known since most of you guys share your experiences on the forums etc.. and other forms of communication. I was just talking in general how bad quality control is for companies who outsource to get their products made in Asia. It's defective rates are much higher than your local made items,but your paying more money as well for the homemade products.Its definitely double edge sword.

I am just glad Swiftech has great customer support and take care of their customers which to me is most important!


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Fractal Design Arc Midi R2...This case is pretty good! Speed junky and I recommend it! I don't think its out on the market yet but soon will be. Newegg has it in stock! You can mount the swiftech in the front or on the top of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video


I think I'm in love with the case!


----------



## byomes

Is anyone using arctic silver 5 with their h220? I'm getting pretty bad temps. 30s idle, low 80s on load. To my knowledge as-5 requires cure time but still the temps are pretty bad. Going to reseat with swiftech's TIM this weekend


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Is anyone using arctic silver 5 with their h220? I'm getting pretty bad temps. 30s idle, low 80s on load. To my knowledge as-5 requires cure time but still the temps are pretty bad. Going to reseat with swiftech's TIM this weekend


As5 is not all that great. You need 200hrs cycle to cure. The stock paste that comes with the H220 would be better. Mx4 is another good choice.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Is anyone using arctic silver 5 with their h220? I'm getting pretty bad temps. 30s idle, low 80s on load. To my knowledge as-5 requires cure time but still the temps are pretty bad. Going to reseat with swiftech's TIM this weekend


Yeah AS5 is old and there are better TIMs out there like MX-4, Gelid GC Extreme, Prolimatech Pk-1, PK-2, Pk-3 and other newer ones


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Is anyone using arctic silver 5 with their h220? I'm getting pretty bad temps. 30s idle, low 80s on load. To my knowledge as-5 requires cure time but still the temps are pretty bad. Going to reseat with swiftech's TIM this weekend


Sounds like your 3770k not necessarily the cooler. I get those temps in IBT at 1.3v 4.9ghz. But you need to know if you're intake or exhaust and what are the temps in your room.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> I think I'm in love with the case!


Yeah...It's a sweet case. I have revision 1 but I still love it. You can't go wrong with the R2 though!


----------



## Pogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> It's defective rates are much higher than your local made items,but your paying more money as well for the homemade products.Its definitely double edge sword.


Really? Do you know what you're talking about? Do you have a source? Or are you just repeating the then-truths (now assumptions) from 20+ years ago?


----------



## colforbin

From Swiftech's Annual Report:

http://www.otcmarkets.com/financialReportViewer?id=100979

_As a result of the positive response received for the H220 product, the decision was made to move to a
new production facility and to invest into new assembly lines to boost the production capacity for the
product.
The issuer has been approached by several leading OEM's for manufacturing of the H220 under various
brand names, and is in the process of finalizing agreements in this respect.
 Declinations of the H220 all-in-one liquid cooling kits are also in development and scheduled for
release during the second quarter of 2013:
- H320 (triple 120mm)
- H240 (dual 140mm)
- H140 (single 140mm)
 The standalone versions of the pump deriving from the H220 kits are scheduled for released during
the second quarter of 2013.
 A new generation of quick-connect non spill fittings is scheduled for release on the first quarter of
2013.
 A new generation of high-end CPU waterblocks is also scheduled for release on the second quarter of
2013.
 A new VGA waterblock is in the final stages of development for NVidia's new Titan graphics card.
 Other products derived from the above are in the process of development._

Interesting stuff!


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, how close to the ram is the fitting is? I didn't like the SP120 fans, just not designed for rads. As you can see there is no proper seal to it. There is a gap in between so air can pass through. If you can find gaskets for that shape, will help.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


I am thinking of removing the red sticks and just running the blue.



Besides the gap that is visible is there another? If so at full speed there was no air escaping from that gap. I have thought about replacing them though. I am thinking of replacing them with these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103090


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> From Swiftech's Annual report:
> 
> http://www.otcmarkets.com/financialReportViewer?id=100979
> 
> _As a result of the positive response received for the H220 product, the decision was made to move to a
> new production facility and to invest into new assembly lines to boost the production capacity for the
> product.
> The issuer has been approached by several leading OEM's for manufacturing of the H220 under various
> brand names, and is in the process of finalizing agreements in this respect.
>  Declinations of the H220 all-in-one liquid cooling kits are also in development and scheduled for
> release during the second quarter of 2013:
> - H320 (triple 120mm)
> - H240 (dual 140mm)
> - H140 (single 140mm)
>  The standalone versions of the pump deriving from the H220 kits are scheduled for released during
> the second quarter of 2013.
>  A new generation of quick-connect non spill fittings is scheduled for release on the first quarter of
> 2013.
>  A new generation of high-end CPU waterblocks is also scheduled for release on the second quarter of
> 2013.
>  A new VGA waterblock is in the final stages of development for NVidia's new Titan graphics card.
>  Other products derived from the above are in the process of development._
> 
> Interesting stuff!


This is what comes to well deserving companies that innovate and stand by their product!









(Im looking at you Apple)

I know I am easily a die-hard Swiftech fan now and this is my first in many categories. First Serious entry into WC and to Swiftech products. But having seen how much they care for us customers, are involved in active communities and love their own product... This all makes for the thickest customer loyalty you can create.

Keep it up guys, you rock!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The cm sickleflow is ok, but didn't perform well on my rads. They were louder and specs are not what they are. They did not move air as much they said the are, less than the stock Helix. I which is by far better.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> From Swiftech's Annual report:
> 
> http://www.otcmarkets.com/financialReportViewer?id=100979
> 
> _As a result of the positive response received for the H220 product, the decision was made to move to a
> new production facility and to invest into new assembly lines to boost the production capacity for the
> product.
> The issuer has been approached by several leading OEM's for manufacturing of the H220 under various
> brand names, and is in the process of finalizing agreements in this respect.
>  Declinations of the H220 all-in-one liquid cooling kits are also in development and scheduled for
> release during the second quarter of 2013:
> - H320 (triple 120mm)
> - H240 (dual 140mm)
> - H140 (single 140mm)
>  The standalone versions of the pump deriving from the H220 kits are scheduled for released during
> the second quarter of 2013.
>  A new generation of quick-connect non spill fittings is scheduled for release on the first quarter of
> 2013.
>  A new generation of high-end CPU waterblocks is also scheduled for release on the second quarter of
> 2013.
>  A new VGA waterblock is in the final stages of development for NVidia's new Titan graphics card.
>  Other products derived from the above are in the process of development._
> 
> Interesting stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> This is what comes to well deserving companies that innovate and stand by their product!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Im looking at you Apple)
> 
> I know I am easily a die-hard Swiftech fan now and this is my first in many categories. First Serious entry into WC and to Swiftech products. But having seen how much they care for us customers, are involved in active communities and love their own product... This all makes for the thickest customer loyalty you can create.
> 
> Keep it up guys, you rock!
Click to expand...

I have had sickle flows and they aren't too loud and but they do make noise when mounted on the top of the case which was a deal breaker for me. I have like 6 just sitting in a closet now.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tom Thumb

FINALLY!!!!!!




Installation pics to follow!!!


----------



## Scorpion667

Yea buddy mine's waiting for me at home too =D


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I have had sickle flows and they aren't too loud and but they do make noise when mounted on the top of the case which was a deal breaker for me. I have like 6 just sitting in a closet now.
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


The Sickle Flow's, at least according to this AnandTech article are complete junk on a radiator. We're talking 20c higher temps than then SP 120 fans when using the voltage reducer on an H80.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The Sickle Flow's, at least according to this AnandTech article are complete junk on a radiator. We're talking 20c higher temps than then SP 120 fans when using the voltage reducer on an H80.


At CeS Cooler Master showed their new line up for Radiator fans. I believe they were called Jet Flow's they looked very promising. I tried to look for them on the net but have not really heard anything about them outside of CeS.






skip to about 6:10
They look pretty good i want the blue Led's
PWM Controlled
[email protected]
He mentions high air pressure but did not give numbers..
600-2200rpm
38-40DbA avarage use
160k hours MTBF
q2 2013 Release


----------



## AdamMT

Almost 7 pm and the freakin' UPS man still hasn't been by.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> At CeS Cooler Master showed their new line up for Radiator fans. I believe they were called Jet Flow's they looked very promising. I tried to look for them on the net but have not really heard anything about them outside of CeS.


I just did a little more looking, my fault for going with the first article on google. Apparently the Sickle Flows do well on radiators in other tests, but they're a "get what you pay for" fan when it comes to longevity and bearing quality.


----------



## Klubhead

I'm psyched production will be picking up.. I can't find out ANYWHERE..

About push/pull, will I need special screws or nay?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I just did a little more looking, my fault for going with the first article on google. Apparently the Sickle Flows do well on radiators in other tests, but they're a "get what you pay for" fan when it comes to longevity and bearing quality.


Sickle FLow's and Jet Flow's 2 different fans Look at my updated post i did a little more digging!


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'm psyched production will be picking up.. I can't find out ANYWHERE..
> 
> About push/pull, will I need special screws or nay?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


You can use the included screws for push-pull.


----------



## Skullwipe

Yeah, I immediately went and looked up the CES videos before you edited your post. I can't wait to see some objective testing of those new fans, not to mention the Eisberg coolers. But my last comment stands, that Anandtech article is misleading, other tests show the Sickle Flows performing decently on a radiator.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Yeah, I immediately went and looked up the CES videos before you edited your post. I can't wait to see some objective testing of those new fans, not to mention the Eisberg coolers. But my last comment stands, that Anandtech article is misleading, other tests show the Sickle Flows performing decently on a radiator.


Yea I wouldl love to rock those Blue Led Fans with my Haf x h320 set up! As far as the eiseberg i was initially interested before i knew about Swiftech. H220 has shown to be a great product. On the other hand eiseberg was delayed for Na Release. It's only available in the EU and from what i read about it it had/has lots of pump noise issues.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Yea I wouldl love to rock those Blue Led Fans with my Haf x h320 set up! As far as the eiseberg i was initially interested before i knew about Swiftech. H220 has shown to be a great product. On the other hand eiseberg was delayed for Na Release. It's only available in the EU and from what i read about it it had/has lots of pump noise issues.


Looking into getting a new case for the H220, but knowing that there's a 280mm version in the works I may hold off a bit. But it really seems like cases that work with 280mm rads, without mods, are few and far between. This is compounded by that fact that if like the H220, they are longer than most Rads of the same size, to make room for the reservoir, they'll be even harder to fit.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Well guess what. After the delay I went through waiting for my H220 to arrive, it now appears as thought I won't get to install it. Here's a pic of what was in the box. Can you see what is missing.



That's right. There were only 3 LGA 2011 screws in the little baggie!!!







I can't begin to express my level of disappointment!








Just to note, only one of the LGA 1155 screws were attached, the others were rolling around in the bottom of the box.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Sorry to hear that. Think Gabe needs to look to see what is going on at the manufacturing side, to see why this is going on.
Can you use screws from a different 2011 cooler to see if that would work?
Contact Swiftech, they will help you with this.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. Think Gabe needs to look to see what is going on at the manufacturing side, to see why this is going on.
> Can you use screws from a different 2011 cooler to see if that would work?
> Contact Swiftech, they will help you with this.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


I guess I should check to make sure the pump is operational as well.


----------



## Irythros

My h220 came in yesterday and first foray into a watercooling solution. Ordered from performancepcs on monday night and it got here thursday morning. No damaged packaging at all which was nice. Opened it up and inspected it, everything was there. I did however notice the radiator had what looks like rust on some of the fins? Not a problem, I don't much care as long as it works... Which is when the second problem came up.

I got my PSU, tossed on the ATX shorter to get power, plugged it all up. I got a green light on it to indicate there was power. Pump didnt start, fans didnt start. I disconnected the molex from the splitter to a fan, fan turns on. We got power and its working. Plug it back into the splitter... no go. I disconnect it all except for the splitter and try the stock CPU fan, that doesnt work. I use a 4 pin -> molex (not exactly, a floppy connector) and it works.
After a few hours of trying to figure out why it would only work that way, my brother gets out his voltmeter and tests it. Turns out it had 2 problems:
1) One of the pins in the molex connector (on the switch) was popping out when plugging it in.
2) The wiring on the splitter was backwards. Positive was negative, negative was positive.

Seriously? I would expect that on a $10 fan, not a $150 kit.

Get that hooked up, test for leaks or anything and none are found. Toss it in the case (NZXT switch) at the top, put it on the cpu and off we go! During testing my CPU hits 50c max on core 2 and 3. 42C max on 0 and 1. Idles at ~25 for 0 and 1, ~35 or 2 and 3. Happy so far minus the massive time sink to find out the wiring they had was backwards. Will report more after I do more stress testing on the CPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Well guess what. After the delay I went through waiting for my H220 to arrive, it now appears as thought I won't get to install it. Here's a pic of what was in the box. Can you see what is missing.
> 
> 
> 
> That's right. There were only 3 LGA 2011 screws in the little baggie!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't begin to express my level of disappointment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to note, only one of the LGA 1155 screws were attached, the others were rolling around in the bottom of the box.


Sent you a PM from home.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sent you a PM from home.


This kind of service, which I've seen multiple times just in this thread, is why I plan on buying a Swiftech unit. You guys seem to be doing a fantastic job of supporting what has to be a massive product launch for your company.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> This kind of service, which I've seen multiple times just in this thread, is why I plan on buying a Swiftech unit. You guys seem to be doing a fantastic job of supporting what has to be a massive product launch for your company.


Indeed... I'm just impressed...


----------



## NIK1

I just got my H220 today. I will hook her up tomorrow on my cooler master storm trooper case. Just a thought though. I have 2 Noctua NF-F12 pwm fans and wonder if I should try these, or are the fans that come with the kit better.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Except for the Few who had some Dead pump's. Quality control seems to be a big problem in today's world since everything is made in China
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Luckily They seem to have good customer support in the States
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope they work out the kinks with the h320 so i can start a new thread for the h320 club members


See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Not sure, there have been like 4-5 reported in this thread / the news thread... how many units sold? There is always a margin for error when you mass manufacture, and we were all excited about this products release, so we're more likely to share our product experience.


See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Of course, H220 was designed and marketed towards the enthusiast rather than the general public. So problems will be more likely known since most of you guys share your experiences on the forums etc.. and other forms of communication. I was just talking in general how bad quality control is for companies who outsource to get their products made in Asia. It's defective rates are much higher than your local made items,but your paying more money as well for the homemade products.Its definitely double edge sword.
> 
> I am just glad Swiftech has great customer support and take care of their customers which to me is most important!


I was at the factory during production (right after CES) and personally supervised QC of these units. 100% were tested, and I felt absolutely confident with our QC procedure (extensive testing etc...). But the devil IS truly in the details, and we are learning details in our QC procedures that could use refinements and eliminate all possible issues other than occasional mishaps. Yes we manufacture in China, but this is our own factory and 100% our employees, so we outsource to a minimum. I have been pounding the concept of Quality First to my people for close to 8 years. The one thing I do to improve quality over the long term, is keep a very low employee turnover. The longer the people are with the job, and the more they know what is expected of them, and the more they can be held accountable too.

But as you said, we'll work out all the kinks, and in the meantime will pamper every single one of you. We (I) are (am) scrutinizing this first release like hawks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irythros*
> 
> My h220 came in yesterday and first foray into a watercooling solution. Ordered from performancepcs on monday night and it got here thursday morning. No damaged packaging at all which was nice. Opened it up and inspected it, everything was there. I did however notice the radiator had what looks like rust on some of the fins?


it's not rust, its the copper showing thru. We intentionnally paint the fins very lightly for improved thermal performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irythros*
> 
> 1) One of the pins in the molex connector (on the switch) was popping out when plugging it in.
> 2) The wiring on the splitter was backwards. Positive was negative, negative was positive.
> Seriously? I would expect that on a $10 fan, not a $150 kit.
> Get that hooked up, test for leaks or anything and none are found. Toss it in the case (NZXT switch) at the top, put it on the cpu and off we go! During testing my CPU hits 50c max on core 2 and 3. 42C max on 0 and 1. Idles at ~25 for 0 and 1, ~35 or 2 and 3. Happy so far minus the massive time sink to find out the wiring they had was backwards. Will report more after I do more stress testing on the CPU.


Stupid Molex connectors







I completely concur with you, and am really sorry for your frustration, but I'm also glad you figured it out. The good news is that next generation (probably in another 500 or 1k pieces till we finish off the current stock of PWM splitters) will use SATA connector instead. wires are molded in, so the chances or human error are eliminated. Much, much more reliable solution than Molex! It's already all arranged, I took care of that while in China.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Well guess what. After the delay I went through waiting for my H220 to arrive, it now appears as thought I won't get to install it. Here's a pic of what was in the box. Can you see what is missing.
> 
> That's right. There were only 3 LGA 2011 screws in the little baggie!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't begin to express my level of disappointment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to note, only one of the LGA 1155 screws were attached, the others were rolling around in the bottom of the box.


If you had called us this afternoon, we would have expressed the missing screw today ! That's one of these occasional mishaps that's hard to catch, and we are sorry for the inconvenience (and frustration). Please email me your address at [email protected] and we'll express this Monday.

Now for the good and the bad news:

The good news is we are in the process of moving to a much larger brand new factory (18,000 sqft) and this will help us in performing better QC, higher productivity, and substantially increased production capacity - Site construction Pics

The bad news is there were unexpected delays in construction while our machines had already been torn down for the move, and we are now sitting and waiting with zero production :-(

We plan on resuming full production on or before April 1st, but meanwhile, the product is going to be very scarce worldwide.

There is a batch of units that shipped earlier this month that will go to Micro Centers and Newegg early April. But that's won't be sufficient to cover our current back-orders. Nothing we can do till the factory starts cranking production again.


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Stupid Molex connectors I completely concur with you, and am really sorry for your frustration, but I'm also glad you figured it out. The good news is that next generation (probably in another 500 or 1k pieces till we finish off the current stock of PWM splitters) will use SATA connector instead. wires are molded in, so the chances or human error are eliminated. Much, much more reliable solution than Molex! It's already all arranged, I took care of that while in China.


Will they also be available for sale at around the same price of $9.99?


----------



## Tom Thumb

I'd like to thank both Bram and Gabe for their prompt replies. It is greatly appreciated.


----------



## AdamMT

Thanks for all that insider info., Gabe. Hard not to be impressed by this company even with this product's growing pains.

I wonder if it's possible that the screwy splitters may be responsible for shorting out the pumps that are being reported DOA?

Here's some food for thought:

I got a unit that had a dead pump. Swiftech shipped me a new unit which I received it this evening. First thing I did was plug it in before installing. I used the splitter that came with the first unit, strictly as an extension cord. I didn't plug in the molex connector because I was just testing the pump. The pump did not run. I though, "sh#t, I got another arsed pump!!" Then I plugged the pump directly in to a pwm header and lo and behold it worked. I'm thinking ... if I had plugged in the molex connector, would it have fried the second pump? OTOH, I'm the farthest thing from an electrician, so this could be total nonsense.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> Will they also be available for sale at around the same price of $9.99?


Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Thanks for all that insider info., Gabe. Hard not to be impressed by this company even with this product's growing pains.
> 
> I wonder if it's possible that the screwy splitters may be responsible for shorting out the pumps that are being reported DOA?


No, that defective splitter is the first reported.

The "growing pains" are really not severe, after all we thoroughly tested all these units.. it's the few we missed that require full investigation. Each failed unit is sent to our lead engineer for complete analysis, and from this, we implement revisions in assembly or QC to lock on the zero defect target. We'll get it done!


----------



## Artcomm

:thumb:Wow I'm a star







Swiftech posted my little lame video on installing the H220 in my Corsair 400R case... http://www.swiftech.com/h220.aspx#tab3


----------



## Irythros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I wonder if it's possible that the screwy splitters may be responsible for shorting out the pumps that are being reported DOA?


Unlikely. I had done all kinds of things with the splitter with known working components and none of them fried, including the pump and fans of the h220. Even did manual wire cutting to test them so if the pump dies it's not going to be from the switched cables like I had. Just a time waste trying to find out they were reversed


----------



## Neo Zuko

Now I wish I didn't buy so many PWM splitters









The new ones sound great!!

Question, can you use a 3-pin to molex adapter and power the splitter via one 3-pin with low power fans?


----------



## SDelong

Nothing scientific here but ran an IBT before install for ~25-30 minutes and I was hitting 60C peak with 55-57C being average, 35C at idle.
Now I am idling at ~17C and at load saw 37C average!
Thanks Swiftech for a great product!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDelong*
> 
> Nothing scientific here but ran an IBT before install for ~25-30 minutes and I was hitting 60C peak with 55-57C being average, 35C at idle.
> Now I am idling at ~17C and at load saw 37C average!
> Thanks Swiftech for a great product!


That's great, but it would be nice to know what CPU you are running, and what cooler you were using before the H220.


----------



## Dizz22r

@Gabriel Rouchon
First of all thank you for taking the time to come in here and chime in your thoughts Mr.Rouchon! Also congratulations on the recent success of the h220. You guys sold out immediately.It's good to hear you guys are moving to a bigger area to increase production. My favorite part is that the H320 is ready to go into productions and i saw the q2 2013 release! As long as your guys Customer support is top notch and you work out the kinks which looks like you guys are already aware off and are working on it.You guys will keep selling your units like hot cakes!


----------



## SDelong

Oh sorry. I am running an FX6300 and previously a 212+. I don't recall my voltage but was clocked at 4.7.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey so does anyone have any idea when these will be back in stock i seen the ces vid a little late on the 13 lol and they were all sold out by then.


----------



## AdamMT

So, some trials and tribulations but I've now got my H220 installed and working and it is ... AWESOME!! My i7 9390k is easily running 20-25 degrees cooler than it was with the CM 212 EVO. Running AIDA64 stress test at 4.5GHz, vcore 1.355v, my hottest cores are hitting the low 70s C. Previously, at 4.3 and lower voltage I was hitting the high 80s. Right now I've got the most basic of overclocks -- using AI Suite II to adjust nothing but CPU ratio and vcore. Will do some serious bios tweaking tomorrow.

In terms of sound it's also great. Very quiet for normal operation and not at all unpleasant even at full load. I really can't hear the pump at all aside from a very occasional gurgle, which seems to have gone away altogether. And I have the rad mounted upside down. Fans are below in pull configuration.


----------



## TechSilver13

H320!? WTH! I went from an H60, H100, H100i, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme, to the H220, now I have to get the H320? UNFAIR!


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> H320!? WTH! I went from an H60, H100, H100i, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme, to the H220, now I have to get the H320? UNFAIR!


They said h320 would come out after the h220 A long time ago when the h220 was first announced. That's the one im waiting on. Also they recently confirmed a h240 and a h140.


----------



## muSPK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> They said h320 would come out after the h220 A long time ago when the h220 was first announced. That's the one im waiting on. Also they recently confirmed a h240 and a h140.


You know when the H140 will be out? When was the announcement?


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muSPK*
> 
> You know when the H140 will be out? When was the announcement?


q2 2013 if im not mistaken.

http://www.otcmarkets.com/financialReportViewer?id=100979


----------



## witeboy07

So I should be receiving my blue uv tubing today, I'm just nervous about changing it as I have never done water cooling before. I'll take pics once it's done!!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> So I should be receiving my blue uv tubing today, I'm just nervous about changing it as I have never done water cooling before. I'll take pics once it's done!!
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


Check out the videos on their site. They have a how to of refilling the loop.


----------



## jchambers2586

Mtherboard stopped showing pump speed then I bypassed the PWM splitter it work good for a while then the pump failed. Has anyone experienced this.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> Mtherboard stopped showing pump speed then I bypassed the PWM splitter it work good for a while then the pump failed. Has anyone experienced this.


Yes, check a few pages back.

How long did it run before it went bad?


----------



## jchambers2586

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Yes, check a few pages back.
> 
> How long did it run before it went bad?


6 days. It Died last night a 10PM I said screw it I thought the pump was hot and shut down and I threw my hands up at it and said it time to go to sleep. got up had me a Salomi sandwich and some tea and tried it again dead.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> Mtherboard stopped showing pump speed then I bypassed the PWM splitter it work good for a while then the pump failed. Has anyone experienced this.


Enough of the dying pump posts already. I'm getting freaked out.


----------



## MerkageTurk

so far so good my h220


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Stupid Molex connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I completely concur with you, and am really sorry for your frustration, but I'm also glad you figured it out. The good news is that next generation (probably in another 500 or 1k pieces till we finish off the current stock of PWM splitters) will use SATA connector instead. wires are molded in, so the chances or human error are eliminated. Much, much more reliable solution than Molex! It's already all arranged, I took care of that while in China.*


RAGE!!!!!!

Glad to hear about the new factory though, was checking out the pics on FB and was loving what I saw. I am hugely interested in this sata plug switch, when will it be available? Can we get it before the new units? I have a mITX case and I simply can not deal with extra unnecessary cabling, and I had to add a molex cable to my PSU just to be able to use the PWM switch.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Does anyone have a h110 thay thy can compare the temps of the 2 i know its 12cm vs 14cm but realy that should lean in favor of the h220 as better fans but every single comparsion and reveiw i have seen the h110 wins by quite alot


----------



## silkzim

It will be amazing if they sell the pump separately and put some led on it...


----------



## jchambers2586

your telling me now I have to take it all apart. going back to the stock intel cooler.


----------



## witeboy07

I went ahead and bought the Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block, i hope this will fit nice with my HIS 7970 Radeon reference card. Hope it all plays well with my current h220 and fx overclock..


----------



## AdamMT

Had a chance to do some manual OC'in and my 9390 is now running stable at 4.8GHz. Unfortunately I had to underclock my RAM to 1333MHz, but that's not too surprising given that I'm running 8x8GB modules. Can I go higher? We shall see.









Interesting observation: I've been using this fan filter, which I really like, but it seems to raise my core temps 4-5C when running at full load. I'm thinking I should pull it off when running CPU-intensive applications/tasks, or else replace the stock fans with ones that have a little more grunt. On the plus side, the filter improves the noise profile by eliminating the bit of howling sound that the fans make. Even with the filter my average core temps. are staying in the mid 70s during the stress test. Ambient is about 23C.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> your telling me now I have to take it all apart. going back to the stock intel cooler.


Sorry, sucks for you.









Went through the same thing myself, but my first unit was DOA. Also have a CM 212 which doesn't suck quite as bad as the stock cooler.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Had a chance to do some manual OC'in and my 9390 is now running stable at 4.8GHz. Unfortunately I had to underclock my RAM to 1333MHz, but that's not too surprising given that I'm running 8x8GB modules. Can I go higher? We shall see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting observation: I've been using this fan filter, which I really like, but it seems to raise my core temps 4-5C when running at full load. I'm thinking I should pull it off when running CPU-intensive applications/tasks, or else replace the stock fans with ones that have a little more grunt. On the plus side, the filter improves the noise profile by eliminating the bit of howling sound that the fans make. Even with the filter my average core temps. are staying in the mid 70s during the stress test. Ambient is about 23C.


Load voltage?


----------



## jchambers2586

Thank you so much Gabe you are awesome we need more people in this world like you. got a replacement coming.


----------



## Tonza

Anyone has put extra radiator + GPU to the H220? If so, gief pics :>

EDIT: Oh wait found review where some dude has put GTX 580 to the loop + RX240 radiator, also results with just the H220.



http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/6/


----------



## Scorpion667

Squirt squirt squirt



Don't have much time for full blown testing atm.
Crappy quality pic, I know. Lots of glare in my room atm.

1 hour prime blend gave me a 41c delta (20c ambient, core average temp 61c). This is with CPU at 1.32v 4.5ghz. Colossal improvement over my H100. As my CPU is very concave, the flat h100 base could not mate properly regardless of TIM appilcation method. As the H220 block is bowed, I am getting excellent TIM spread as seen when removing block to check. Thanks Gabe for this nifty feature, it's a day and night difference on awkwardly concave IHS's.
I just have it in the top set as intake, push config with AP-15's

I will inform you guys that it's not possible to mount the rad on the bottom of the switch 810 if you are using a Rampage IV extreme and lightning 680 in the top slot. The video card is wider than refference models and the tubing won't reach the cpu. It's like an inch off.

Great product great company, just one gripe: the paint job on the rad sucks, but not a big deal to me.
Also, I really wanted to run the H220 without the swiftech frontplate on the block (just the bare pump showing) but there are ugly glue marks on the sides that won't come off with 99% isopropic alcohol/microfiber cloth. Of course the decorative plastic front plate covers this, but I prefer the industrial look of just the pump.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Load voltage?


1.41v +/- .02 (offset voltage).


----------



## thelude

About to install my h220. Tim-mate 2 paste or something else. Or does it make a difference? Thanks.


----------



## SDBolts619

Just wanted to drop a quick note that I received my replacement unit Friday and am back up and running. Thanks again to the Swiftech team for getting out the replacement so quickly!


----------



## AdamMT

I used the included paste. Seems like good stuff.


----------



## CTM Audi

Push/pull tested with NF-F12s 7V. 1C difference over ambient.

Push 24C Ambient,


Push/pull, 21C Ambient


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> 1.41v +/- .02 (offset voltage).


Nice. Maybe shot for 5!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Well, just need my 2011 screw to come in next week from the good folks at Swiftech and I'll be up and running.








Ran the pump today. Sounds good to go. Ran quiet at 3000RPM.







My 3930k is sitting naked!
By the way, that's a push/pull intake. A ton of room in the HAF 932, I need a thicker rad!


----------



## CTM Audi

While my kit is performing well, I am thinking the pump is defective. Its got a high pitch rattle tone that I can hear even at 20% (1500rpm), and around 2200rpm it becomes very loud and drowns out my fans.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Nice. Maybe shot for 5!


CPU temps wouldn't be a problem, but vcore would probably be too hot. Anyone make a vcore water block?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> While my kit is performing well, I am thinking the pump is defective. Its got a high pitch rattle tone that I can hear even at 20% (1500rpm), and around 2200rpm it becomes very loud and drowns out my fans.


Is that new or has it always done that?


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Is that new or has it always done that?


Always has. Been testing with higher fan speeds, and spent the day messing around with PWM settings to quiet things down. No matter what I try, the noise is there.


----------



## AdamMT

You should probably RMA that. I can't hear my pump at all over the case fans, which aren't that loud. If your pump is that loud there's something wrong.


----------



## CTM Audi

Im going to try and get a video of it tomorrow some time.

At 1500rpm is low enough that with the panels on its not bothersome, though still audible.

Back to testing, with the fans as exhaust/pull, its only 1C warmer over ambient then intake/push.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Always has. Been testing with higher fan speeds, and spent the day messing around with PWM settings to quiet things down. No matter what I try, the noise is there.


Are you sure it's the pump? I would try unplugging the all the fans and just running the pump then just one fan at a time without the pump and see if it's the pump for sure.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Are you sure it's the pump? I would try unplugging the all the fans and just running the pump then just one fan at a time without the pump and see if it's the pump for sure.


Its the pump. Makes the noise when its the only thing plugged in, goes away when its not, gets louder when pump speed increases.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> You should probably RMA that. I can't hear my pump at all over the case fans, which aren't that loud. If your pump is that loud there's something wrong.


Agreed. I have no pump noise even at 3000+ RPM. All these pump problems are freaking me out.


----------



## JoshME

Good news for anyone worrying about the pump problems just remember you have a 3 year warranty lol so cheer up enjoy the h220 and if it has issues then trust me from the 50+ pages I've read on here swiftech is out to play and they are makin customer satisfaction número UNO.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Its the pump. Makes the noise when its the only thing plugged in, goes away when its not, gets louder when pump speed increases.


I sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get this taken care of. Your pump shouldn't be making that kind of noise.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshME*
> 
> Good news for anyone worrying about the pump problems just remember you have a 3 year warranty lol so cheer up enjoy the h220 and if it has issues then trust me from the 50+ pages I've read on here swiftech is out to play and they are makin customer satisfaction número UNO.


Absolutely right!


----------



## Klubhead

Any word on who will have stock the soonest?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Any word on who will have stock the soonest?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


I don't have that information available to me right now. I can give you my best guess though when I get into work on Monday.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Any word on who will have stock the soonest?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have that information available to me right now. I can give you my best guess though when I get into work on Monday.
Click to expand...

You're the man, I'd really appreciate that info









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## eoniverse

So much talk about failing pumps. Makes me want to back off my overclock. But love the H220 so far. Leaving my i7 920 running at 4.0. Nice idles and temps take 45 minutes on Prime before they touch 60C. Stopped testing when it hit an hour. Amazing cooler.

Looking to go push pull. If anyone is not going to use the stock Helix's I'd love to have them. Shoot me a PM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eoniverse*
> 
> So much talk about failing pumps. Makes me want to back off my overclock. But love the H220 so far. Leaving my i7 920 running at 4.0. Nice idles and temps take 45 minutes on Prime before they touch 60C. Stopped testing when it hit an hour. Amazing cooler.
> 
> Looking to go push pull. If anyone is not going to use the stock Helix's I'd love to have them. Shoot me a PM.


Well you cant have mine when I get my H220. Like i said, they are good fans for what they offer for price/performance/noise ratio.


----------



## witeboy07

Too bad my case won't allow for a push pull config. Maybe I'll upgrade my case down the road.. once I add my gpu to it,I think I'm going to have to added an extra radiator based on reviews. You guys think another 240 rad should be fine? Or can it be a thick 120?

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Too bad my case won't allow for a push pull config. Maybe I'll upgrade my case down the road.. once I add my gpu to it,I think I'm going to have to added an extra radiator based on reviews. You guys think another 240 rad should be fine? Or can it be a thick 120?
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


Most tests show that push/pull only offers a very slight improvement over push, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I am doing just push in both my units because I have never seen any results that seem worth the trouble and expense.

More rads is definitely worth the upgrade from what I have seen. The bigger the better, but it just depends on what you can fit. I will end up with a 240 and 360 in my Switch 810.


----------



## witeboy07

I can fit two single 120 rads, one in the front and one in the back. I will be cooling the fx plus the 7970

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> worth the trouble and expense.


Come on man. Trouble and expense, your kidding right. Look at your avatar!








I'm doing it just because it looks good!!!!








Money and trouble has nothing to do with it, or we wouldn't be in this hobby to begin with. It isn't cheap being a computer enthusiast, and I think the majority of us like to tinker!!


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Come on man. Trouble and expense, your kidding right. Look at your avatar!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing it just because it looks good!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Money and trouble has nothing to do with it, or we wouldn't be in this hobby to begin with. It isn't cheap being a computer enthusiast, and I think the majority of us like to tinker!!


Oh I completely understand the looks part, I am just sort of a value guy. Not concerned so much about the actual price, just price/performance. Another two F12 fans is another $44 and for a 1c improvement and a little more sound, it doesn't seem worth it to me. But I totally understand why other people would do it. I was just trying to point out that if people don't have room for push/pull, they shouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Oh I completely understand the looks part, I am just sort of a value guy. Not concerned so much about the actual price, just price/performance. Another two F12 fans is another $44 and for a 1c improvement and a little more sound, it doesn't seem worth it to me. But I totally understand why other people would do it. I was just trying to point out that if people don't have room for push/pull, they shouldn't worry about it.


Agreed.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Oh I completely understand the looks part, I am just sort of a value guy. Not concerned so much about the actual price, just price/performance. Another two F12 fans is another $44 and for a 1c improvement and a little more sound, it doesn't seem worth it to me. But I totally understand why other people would do it. I was just trying to point out that if people don't have room for push/pull, they shouldn't worry about it.


Personally I'd take the lower noise level over the 1c improvement.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Personally I'd take the lower noise level over the 1c improvement.


I guess that would depend on the fans your using. To each his own!


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Always has. Been testing with higher fan speeds, and spent the day messing around with PWM settings to quiet things down. No matter what I try, the noise is there.


Doesn't really matter what brand fan you use; four fans is louder than two fans. Might not be a huge difference, but it's more noise.


----------



## shanker

Speedfan shows the CPU fan as running at 16xx at idle. is that normal? I have it set up correctly. Splitter to the cpu header then the pump to the splitter in the red connector and the PWM fans in the rest. Its seems a little loud but I have no point of reference for idle.

Temps are 16C-20C better then my EVO at load.


----------



## Ragsters

Any estimate on H320 release date yet?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Any estimate on H320 release date yet?


No word yet, as they are moving factories.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> Speedfan shows the CPU fan as running at 16xx at idle. is that normal? I have it set up correctly. Splitter to the cpu header then the pump to the splitter in the red connector and the PWM fans in the rest. Its seems a little loud but I have no point of reference for idle.
> 
> Temps are 16C-20C better then my EVO at load.


If you're using the splitter the way we suggest then the speed that you're reading isn't the speed of your fans. You're reading the speed of your pump. When using our splitter with your pump in channel one and the fans in the other channels, everything is controlled as a percentage from 0 to 100%. The only speed that you'll be able to read though is the speed of your pump.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Doesn't really matter what brand fan you use; four fans is louder than two fans. Might not be a huge difference, but it's more noise.


So if the 2 fans I add are quieter than the 2 that come with the unit, it's going to be louder?
Helix 120 PWM-33 DBA / Enermax Cluster-14 dBA, at least that's what they claim!
Mind you, I don't know if the Clusters will make any difference in cooling. There mostly for bling!









When the difference between two noise levels is 10 dB(A) or more, the amount to be added to the higher noise level is zero. In such cases, no adjustment factor is needed because adding in the contribution of the lower in the total noise level makes no perceptible difference in what people can hear or measure. For example if your workplace noise level is 95 dB(A) and you add another machine that produces 85 dB(A) noise, the workplace noise level will still be 95dB(A).


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> So if the 2 fans I add are quieter than the 2 that come with the unit, it's going to be louder?
> Helix 120 PWM-33 DBA / Enermax Cluster-14 dBA, at least that's what they claim!
> Mind you, I don't know if the Clusters will make any difference in cooling. There mostly for bling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the difference between two noise levels is 10 dB(A) or more, the amount to be added to the higher noise level is zero. In such cases, no adjustment factor is needed because adding in the contribution of the lower in the total noise level makes no perceptible difference in what people can hear or measure. For example if your workplace noise level is 95 dB(A) and you add another machine that produces 85 dB(A) noise, the workplace noise level will still be 95dB(A).


No, I'm just saying that all else being equal, two fans will be quieter than four of the SAME fans.


----------



## TechSilver13

Just wanted to post my experience I have had with my H220 so far. I have owned the H60/H80/H100/H100i/ Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme and finally the Swiftech H220. At first I wasnt very impressed with my temps. I run FireStrike Extreme at 5.14GHz @ 1.6v as my bench test and I do the same test with the H100i and Water 2.0 Ex. I use SP120s pushing and Notuas NF-F12s pulling (getting 2 more Noctuas or SP120s not sure yet) Anyway I would get 80C on the hottest core with the Water 2.0 no matter how many times I ran the bench so I know this is a solid number. I am not including the H100i as its not in the same class as the Watre 2.0 Ex or H220. The H220 was setup like this:


I was getting 86C-87C on the hottest core running the test multiple times. After two days of just saying screw it I went to put my Water 2.0 back on and discovered what is circled in red on the above picture. The plastic barb was sitting on top on the heatsink not allowing the waterblock to sit flush on the CPU. So I reseated the H220 like this:



I retested and now my temps are 76C on the hottest core. So if you have an ASRock Extreme9 Z77, you know how to install the H220.


----------



## sikkly

I'm surprised the heatsink gets hot enough to increase temps that much, 10C just from the tube touching. For sure will have to double check every time I mount to make sure I'm not touching any heatsinks.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> No, I'm just saying that all else being equal, two fans will be quieter than four of the SAME fans.


Gotch ya. This is true, but even when we're talking about identical fans, it's only going to be about 3db louder.


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> I'm surprised the heatsink gets hot enough to increase temps that much, 10C just from the tube touching. For sure will have to double check every time I mount to make sure I'm not touching any heatsinks.


Well it wasnt from touching, I didnt make myself very clear, The plastic barb was resting on the heatsink making it not sit flush on top of the actual processor. Flipping it allows it to actually be 100% flush. That should make more sense now. Thanks for commenting since I flubbed the original post BTW. I will edit it.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Well it wasnt from touching, I didnt make myself very clear, The plastic barb was resting on the heatsink making it not sit flush on top of the actual processor. Flipping it allows it to actually be 100% flush. That should make more sense now. Thanks for commenting since I flubbed the original post BTW. I will edit it.


Ah, that seems much more reasonable. I was like 10C from a heatsink on your mobo?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Yes
> No, that defective splitter is the first reported.
> 
> The "growing pains" are really not severe, after all we thoroughly tested all these units.. it's the few we missed that require full investigation. Each failed unit is sent to our lead engineer for complete analysis, and from this, we implement revisions in assembly or QC to lock on the zero defect target. We'll get it done!


On the upcoming H320 I presume you will be starting out with the new SATA splitters.


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Yes
> No, that defective splitter is the first reported.
> 
> The "growing pains" are really not severe, after all we thoroughly tested all these units.. it's the few we missed that require full investigation. Each failed unit is sent to our lead engineer for complete analysis, and from this, we implement revisions in assembly or QC to lock on the zero defect target. We'll get it done!
> 
> 
> 
> On the upcoming H320 I presume you will be starting out with the new SATA splitters.
Click to expand...

Speaking of the H320. Do we have an ETA in it? Gotta see how long I have to wait to sell my H220.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're using the splitter the way we suggest then the speed that you're reading isn't the speed of your fans. You're reading the speed of your pump. When using our splitter with your pump in channel one and the fans in the other channels, everything is controlled as a percentage from 0 to 100%. The only speed that you'll be able to read though is the speed of your pump.


Any update as to when Newegg will start carrying the H220?


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Speaking of the H320. Do we have an ETA in it? Gotta see how long I have to wait to sell my H220.
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


Q2-2013 is the estimate release date. Just said it like 3-7 pages back


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Speaking of the H320. Do we have an ETA in it? Gotta see how long I have to wait to sell my H220.
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Q2-2013 is the estimate release date. Just said it like 3-7 pages back
Click to expand...

Next time don't answer...THUMB.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## thelude

Done install my H220 on my Obsidian 800d in push/pull. Take a look guys.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I retested and now my temps are 76C on the hottest core. So if you have an ASRock Extreme9 Z77, you know how to install the H220.


i pretty much had to mount my h220 the same way. With the VRM in the way, I was getting around 76-78C. Reseated and made sure the VRM wasnt blocking and got sub 70C.


----------



## witeboy07

Just got an extra rad for when I add my 7970 to the line!























Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## witeboy07

I might have to flip my pump so I can have all my for ram slots free from touching the tubing..









Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Any update as to when Newegg will start carrying the H220?


I should have that answer for you when I get into work tomorrow.


----------



## MeanBruce

not even worth it.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> not even worth it.


Whats not worth it?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Any update as to when Newegg will start carrying the H220?


Bryan can get you a better answer tomorrow, but my understanding is that there is only one more shipment, in transit now from China, that went through before they tore down all the tooling to start moving it to the new facilities. So unless Newegg gets some from that shipment, it's likely that they won't get any until the first shipment from the new facilities once they're up and running. But I could be wrong.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> I might have to flip my pump so I can have all my for ram slots free from touching the tubing..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


I would like to flip mine as well... but there is an issue when you try and mount the included AMD brackets to the pump head, one side will not mate up because one of the hose fittings is "SLIGHTLY" lower than the other whereby not allowing the bracket to install...

This is a fairly signifigant issue for us AMD users as it means we have to sacrifice a Ram slot for the cooler... A simple bracket rework could solve the issue however...


----------



## Magnum26

For anyone in the UK after one of these: According to the Specialtek website they will have stock on Mar 21, 2013 (This Thursday). I'll be placing my order as soon as possible.









Has anyone used Specialtek before I've never heard of them until last week.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I would like to flip mine as well... but there is an issue when you try and mount the included AMD brackets to the pump head, one side will not mate up because one of the hose fittings is "SLIGHTLY" lower than the other whereby not allowing the bracket to install...
> 
> This is a fairly signifigant issue for us AMD users as it means we have to sacrifice a Ram slot for the cooler... A simple bracket rework could solve the issue however...


Is this only a Gigabyte issue or is it an issue for Asus boards like the Crosshair V as well?


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> For anyone in the UK after one of these: According to the Specialtek website they will have stock on Mar 21, 2013 (This Thursday). I'll be placing my order as soon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone used Specialtek before I've never heard of them until last week.


Great customer service and fast delivery. Can't say anything bad about them and I've bought few things from specialtech. Had to RMA my pump and got a replacement with no problems so there is nothing to worry about


----------



## jprovido

hi.I'm thinking of getting an H220, a waterblock for my gpu and another thin rad xspc RS240

this:


what temps should I expect with this setup? can I get away without installing a reservoir on this loop?


----------



## utnorris

According to Swiftech, you probably do not need another rad for a single GPU setup, but I can't hurt. Temps would be based on various variables, i.e. ambient temp, overclock on the cpu, etc. The swiftech rad has a res built into it, so no need for additional res.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> According to Swiftech, you probably do not need another rad for a single GPU setup, but I can't hurt. Temps would be based on various variables, i.e. ambient temp, overclock on the cpu, etc. The swiftech rad has a res built into it, so no need for additional res.


would that be enough? from where I'm from it's summer atm and it's pretty humid here. I'm not really gonna load both the cpu and gpu at the same time. not gonna do folding etc. just regular usage/gaming


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Done install my H220 on my Obsidian 800d in push/pull. Take a look guys.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Omg dood... backplate.. or brace or something that GPU is bending the crap out of your PCIe slot.


----------



## MerkageTurk

guys check out Linus Tech TIps video of the H220 with GPU cooling


----------



## MerkageTurk

Looks like my 800D


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> guys check out Linus Tech TIps video of the H220 with GPU cooling


no offense to gtx 670 owners but those tiny little cards looks ugly when watercooled


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> no offense to gtx 670 owners but those tiny little cards looks ugly when watercooled


Just remember- looks are subjective, but you'll make more friends not calling their stuff ugly







.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> For anyone in the UK after one of these: According to the Specialtek website they will have stock on Mar 21, 2013 (This Thursday). I'll be placing my order as soon as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone used Specialtek before I've never heard of them until last week.


yeah but they have been constantly changing the date they are due in so dont take the 21st as gospel

never used them but have heard of them

also keep an eye on

tekheads.co.uk

overclockers.co.uk

so far those are the only uk sites i have seen selling them


----------



## navit

Any word on newegg getting stock in the next round?


----------



## DMills

As soon as they stock back up, its time to buy a second.
Then third, fourth until I can decorate my living room wall with radiators lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Just remember- looks are subjective, but you'll make more friends not calling their stuff ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


^ This! And not all 670's are tiny. My 670 is watercooled by the Accelero Hybrid Cooler.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Any word on newegg getting stock in the next round?


Think Gabriel said their last shipment went to newegg and microcenter. ETA arrival late march early April if I am not mistaken


----------



## circeseye

ok guys this is what im thinking about doing with my h220 and hav xb

(yea my paint skills SUCK)











ok will the h220 pump handle this or will i need to add a pump.

h220 to reservoir to amd 8350 to dual 80mm (bottom cases 2 80mm slots) back up to 7950 w/heatkiller x back to 220

plan on another 7950 later but want to when i build it to make sure everything is right the first time so i dont need to add later on









also is the hoses on the h220 5/8??? trying to figure out what to go with hose wise and dont see 5/8 anywhere just 1/4 3/8 and 1/2


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> ok guys this is what im thinking about doing with my h220 and hav xb
> 
> (yea my paint skills SUCK)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok will the h220 pump handle this or will i need to add a pump.
> 
> h220 to reservoir to amd 8350 to dual 80mm (bottom cases 2 80mm slots) back up to 7950 w/heatkiller x back to 220
> 
> plan on another 7950 later but want to when i build it to make sure everything is right the first time so i dont need to add later on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also is the hoses on the h220 5/8??? trying to figure out what to go with hose wise and dont see 5/8 anywhere just 1/4 3/8 and 1/2


The pump will work for that loop no prob. The hoses are 3/8 inner diameter (id) and 5/8 outer (od).


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> ok guys this is what im thinking about doing with my h220 and hav xb
> ok will the h220 pump handle this or will i need to add a pump.
> 
> h220 to reservoir to amd 8350 to dual 80mm (bottom cases 2 80mm slots) back up to 7950 w/heatkiller x back to 220
> 
> plan on another 7950 later but want to when i build it to make sure everything is right the first time so i dont need to add later on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also is the hoses on the h220 5/8??? trying to figure out what to go with hose wise and dont see 5/8 anywhere just 1/4 3/8 and 1/2


Pump will be perfectly fine for this the flow rate is plenty








but if your going to waterblock & crossfire both gpus & oc that 8350, you may want an additional radiator to dissipate extra heat

merely my oen speculation, but someone here prob knows more than I about this

Edit: just deciphered your drawing & saw the extra rads







, you should be good 2 go with 2 80mms & the rad included on the h220


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> As soon as they stock back up, its time to buy a second.
> Then third, fourth until I can decorate my living room wall with radiators lol


The decorating quip aside, this is why I bought 2 off the bat







my 955be is a bit old, but I'm putting a 580 hydrogen in with it to use as a backup gaming rig / folder and some extra cooling doesn't hurt.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Any update as to when Newegg will start carrying the H220?


Sorry, still no word yet on when the Egg will start carrying these. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Is this only a Gigabyte issue or is it an issue for Asus boards like the Crosshair V as well?


From my understanding the Crosshair V also has some issues with regards to ram slots being fowled by the outlet port. It also has some issues with the bracket because of the heat sink directly below the CPU socket.


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> The decorating quip aside, this is why I bought 2 off the bat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 955be is a bit old, but I'm putting a 580 hydrogen in with it to use as a backup gaming rig / folder and some extra cooling doesn't hurt.


My living room rig is an old athlon ii x4 just using a scythe 92mm hsf, but does have a HD 7850
I'm planning to upgrade its mobo & get a 8350 soon -- which will definitely need a wc loop.
then expanded with a second 7850 maybe more rads

just not sure whether I should grab the H220 first or do the mobo & cpu then loop afterwards
so I'm just waiting to see when they will stock back up & buy whatever is out when I get paid friday


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my understanding the Crosshair V also has some issues with regards to ram slots being fowled by the outlet port. It also has some issues with the bracket because of the heat sink directly below the CPU socket.


I think AMD motherboard compatibility could be increased by looking into the "AMD brackets" that mount to the pump itself. If they can allow to be installed on the water fitting side of the pump enabling the pump to be mounted 90 degrees out, this would solve many of the AMD issues.

I know I had planned on mounting mine this way, but was sad to find that the one side of the pump wouldn't allow the bracket to install. As it stands I might have to look into modifying the bracket to allow it to fit under the one water barb so I can get my remaining memory in the computer...


----------



## circeseye

thanks guys









also the dual 80mm is a single radiator
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2148/ex-rad-23/Black_Ice_Micro_Dual_80mm_Radiator_Black.html?tl=g30c95s158



after seeing the dual 80's on the bottom and finding this i thought wow perfect


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ^ This! And not all 670's are tiny. My 670 is watercooled by the Accelero Hybrid Cooler.


reference 670 PCB is really short. Its like 1/2-3/4 shorter than my old 5850, but more than double the power.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my understanding the Crosshair V also has some issues with regards to ram slots being fowled by the outlet port. It also has some issues with the bracket because of the heat sink directly below the CPU socket.


Exactly what issues and are their solutions to this problem. I have the original Crosshair V , not the Crosshair V Formula Z.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my understanding the Crosshair V also has some issues with regards to ram slots being fowled by the outlet port. It also has some issues with the bracket because of the heat sink directly below the CPU socket.


Exactly what issues? And are there solutions to the problem? I have the original Crosshair V , not the Crosshair V Formula Z.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my understanding the Crosshair V also has some issues with regards to ram slots being fowled by the outlet port. It also has some issues with the bracket because of the heat sink directly below the CPU socket.


I don't think it's an issue with my mobo but low profile Crucial Ballistix Sport would probably solve this issue (What I am using). Although most of the people having the issue probably already have their memory.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Exactly what issues and are their solutions to this problem. I have the original Crosshair V , not the Crosshair V Formula Z.


I'm not sure which of the Formula boards that it was, but I had a customer a while back complain that he had to file down one side of the AMD bracket in order to get it to fit on his board. he also couldn't turn the block 90 degrees because the fittings wouldn't clear the heat sinks. You can see in the picture where I marked it for where it fowls the ram slot and the heat sink. The lower left part of the AMD mounting bracket is where he had to file it down.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> 
> I'm not sure which of the Formula boards that it was, but I had a customer a while back complain that he had to file down one side of the AMD bracket in order to get it to fit on his board. he also couldn't turn the block 90 degrees because the fittings wouldn't clear the heat sinks. You can see in the picture where I marked it for where it fowls the ram slot and the heat sink. The lower left part of the AMD mounting bracket is where he had to file it down.


My Corsair H100 has no problem like that with the AMD bracket. Since I am not installing the H320 myself, but am handing it over to a professional < I don't think he'll like having to file down parts. It is time consuming and must be done with a degree of precision. He will be working on the floor of my solarium, where my computer is located. I am losing my interest for this product if I have to resort to such techniques on a well known motherboard. I expect better from Swiftech on this and will not accept that solution. I only have 2 sticks of ram so the ram slot may not be a problem for me. I think my sticks are in the red ram slots which are slots 2 and 3.
I can see no martkings in your picture. The contrast is too high.


----------



## os2wiz

Sorry for duplicate. My mouse click causes this some times.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> My Corsair H100 has no problem like that with the AMD bracket. Since I am not installing the H320 myself, but am handing it over to a professional < I don't think he'll like having to file down parts. It is time consuming and must be done with a degree of precision. He will be working on the floor of my solarium, where my computer is located. I am losing my interest for this product if I have to resort to such techniques on a well known motherboard. I expect better from Swiftech on this and will not accept that solution. I only have 2 sticks of ram so the ram slot may not be a problem for me. I think my sticks are in the red ram slots which are slots 2 and 3.
> I can see no martkings in your picture. The contrast is too high.


In talking with Stephen, he says that this is an issue with AMD and Intel sockets due to the way that we have designed a simple method for adapting the mounting assembly. Stephen is considering designing an adapter that will allow for narrower socket mounting, like that used with certain AMD sockets. It will be harder to adapt and will most likely require that the kit be completely drained prior to installing the narrow adapter. Designing and producing this adapter will of course depend on demand for it.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> 
> I'm not sure which of the Formula boards that it was, but I had a customer a while back complain that he had to file down one side of the AMD bracket in order to get it to fit on his board. he also couldn't turn the block 90 degrees because the fittings wouldn't clear the heat sinks. You can see in the picture where I marked it for where it fowls the ram slot and the heat sink. The lower left part of the AMD mounting bracket is where he had to file it down.


I still think a simple rework of the AMD brackets to allow the pump to be installed 90 degrees with fitting facing top and bottom of the board would solve all these issues. It seems like a small oversight in production of the unit. Intel installation can install in any of the 4 positions where us AMD owns have only 2 positions, both blocking a ram slot and maybe contacting board mounted components.

Would swiftech entertain looking into updating the AMD brackets?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I still think a simple rework of the AMD brackets to allow the pump to be installed 90 degrees with fitting facing top and bottom of the board would solve all these issues. It seems like a small oversight in production of the unit. Intel installation can install in any of the 4 positions where us AMD owns have only 2 positions, both blocking a ram slot and maybe contacting board mounted components.
> 
> Would swiftech entertain looking into updating the AMD brackets?


Unfortunately this isn't going to happen. If anything we will make a special bracket for narrow socket boards that will require the complete removal of the stock Intel bracket and thus require the kit to be drained. I was able to find that it's a Formula Z board that's shown in the picture. It doesn't really matter though because the socket area is the same on both boards.


----------



## pat102ko

I am kinda of a quite freak aka why I got the R4 but I was curious if it would help noise level to have the fans pointing down opposed to have the pointing up and in pull? Or get new fans to put on them? Will it make much of a difference in performance or sound?


----------



## witeboy07

On my sabertooth 990fx I have the ram problem.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately this isn't going to happen. If anything we will make a special bracket for narrow socket boards that will require the complete removal of the stock Intel bracket and thus require the kit to be drained. I was able to find that it's a Formula Z board that's shown in the picture. It doesn't really matter though because the socket area is the same on both boards.


Strike 2. I did not want to expand my kit for the forseeable future and looked forward to 3 years of use without refilling. Now having to drain it means refilling every 6 months and worrying about spills. Not at all what I had looked forward to as an owner. I think Gabe has to get back to the drawing board and come up with a solution that is not bastardized. What troubles me in addition is there was no mention of this in the past 2 months threads as far as I know. I have read almost every post in the past 2 months .


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

its an issue with AMD boards. The ram and mosffets are too close to socket, which makes it a poor design. Standard brackets, with known issues. Yet many attempts to tell them to change and fix layout, yields stupidity with manufactures.
Same issue with many that I have bought and mounted AIO, like my Coolit and Aseteks. No issue with Intel.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Strike 2. I did not want to expand my kit for the forseeable future and looked forward to 3 years of use without refilling. Now having to drain it means refilling every 6 months and worrying about spills. Not at all what I had looked forward to as an owner. I think Gabe has to get back to the drawing board and come up with a solution that is not bastardized. What troubles me in addition is there was no mention of this in the past 2 months threads as far as I know. I have read almost every post in the past 2 months .


From what I can tell, this problem seems to be specific to certain AMD boards. Intel boards that have issues with regards to ram slots have been able to rotate their pump/block in order to make it fit. This is the only board, so far, that it would appear has an issue with the surrounding heat sinks. I had asked this customer to attempt to remount their kit to see if it was possibly just mounted improperly. I never heard back from them. I was told then though that it's possible that a small number of AMD boards might have some issues, but like I said this is the only one that appeared to have issues with the surrounding heat sinks. I was never able to confirm that though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> its an issue with AMD boards. The ram and mosffets are too close to socket, which makes it a poor design. Standard brackets, with known issues. Yet many attempts to tell them to change and fix layout, yields stupidity with manufactures.
> Same issue with many that I have bought and mounted AIO, like my Coolit and Aseteks. No issue with Intel.


Exactly.


----------



## Pogi

How often will I need to drain and refill the loop after the initial loop expansion?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pogi*
> 
> How often will I have to drain and refill the loop after the inital loop expansion?


Under normal conditions you shouldn't have to refill the loop for the life of the product after you've expanded it. You might have to top it off though every one to two years. This is of course as long as you did the expansion correctly.


----------



## Pogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Under normal conditions you shouldn't have to refill the loop for the life of the product after you've expanded it. You might have to top it off though every one to two years. This is of course as long as you did the expansion correctly.


Excellent! Thank you.


----------



## spikexp

Just install my H220,
Bottom mounted (push-pull) in my cm 690 II.

For now, as silent as my D14. The temps are quite lower than with my d14, over 10c at idle.

So to resume for compatibility sake:
CM 690 II bottom mounted in push-pull (you need to put fan at the bottom, the rad can't go at the bottom because the fitting hit the PSU cable on my ax760).
Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 (no problem with heatsink, but might prevent the ram slot closest to the socket from being use).

Will post picture tomorrow.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From what I can tell, this problem seems to be specific to certain AMD boards. Intel boards that have issues with regards to ram slots have been able to rotate their pump/block in order to make it fit. This is the only board, so far, that it would appear has an issue with the surrounding heat sinks. I had asked this customer to attempt to remount their kit to see if it was possibly just mounted improperly. I never heard back from them. I was told then though that it's possible that a small number of AMD boards might have some issues, but like I said this is the only one that appeared to have issues with the surrounding heat sinks. I was never able to confirm that though.


The rotate trick works for everything but mITX boards as far as I have been able to tell. The best fit is the MSI Z77IA-E53. I had the Z77E-ITX but its pcie slot died and I picked the MSI up for now. It fits better than the asrock, regardless you need low profile ram for both boards.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From what I can tell, this problem seems to be specific to certain AMD boards. Intel boards that have issues with regards to ram slots have been able to rotate their pump/block in order to make it fit. This is the only board, so far, that it would appear has an issue with the surrounding heat sinks. I had asked this customer to attempt to remount their kit to see if it was possibly just mounted improperly. I never heard back from them. I was told then though that it's possible that a small number of AMD boards might have some issues, but like I said this is the only one that appeared to have issues with the surrounding heat sinks. I was never able to confirm that though.


Does the fact I had no issue with my Corsair H100 install have any relevance to the H220/H320 installation issues?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Does the fact I had no issue with my Corsair H100 install have any relevance to the H220/H320 installation issues?


Did you install the H100 or did your professional install it? Because I installed my H80 (same bracketry as the H100) It was a PITA compared to installing the Apogee Drive II (same mounting hardware as H220) to my MVG. Although I do understand your concerns about this unit on certain AMD boards, you have to understand as well that a manufacturer can't test their product on every single board, and that without end-user correspondence, there's no way to know of problems on untested boards, and thus no way to fix the problems. On that note though, filing down one side of the bracket isn't a big deal at all, and doesn't require very much precision either. I've done such modifications in seconds with a die grinder


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Does the fact I had no issue with my Corsair H100 install have any relevance to the H220/H320 installation issues?


Don't see how it could, they use completely different mounting hardware and the pump housing and barbs are not in any way the same.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Did you install the H100 or did your professional install it? Because I installed my H80 (same bracketry as the H100) It was a PITA compared to installing the Apogee Drive II (same mounting hardware as H220) to my MVG. Although I do understand your concerns about this unit on certain AMD boards, you have to understand as well that a manufacturer can't test their product on every single board, and that without end-user correspondence, there's no way to know of problems on untested boards, and thus no way to fix the problems. On that note though, filing down one side of the bracket isn't a big deal at all, and doesn't require very much precision either. I've done such modifications in seconds with a die grinder


The Crosshair V is the premium board in the AM3+ lineup. While expensive it is one of the favorite boards for FX 8 Core over clocking. There is no way this board should not have been included in testing. It is the star of the AM3+ boards is extremely well known and acclaimed. This was a serious oversight by Swiftech, you can't explain it away so simply.My professional did it with my assistance. It was installed in the top of my large super tower gaming case.I am not a acronym person I know not what a PITA means. No heat sinks or ram slots were interfered with. Once again does that have any significance for an H220 installation? I need a straight up answer. If I can't get one I'm searching for a custom water loop whose AMD bracket has no issues with the Crosshair V motherboard installation.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The Crosshair V is the premium board in the AM3+ lineup. While expensive it is one of the favorite boards for FX 8 Core over clocking. There is no way this board should not have been included in testing. It is the star of the AM3+ boards is extremely well known and acclaimed. This was a serious oversight by Swiftech, you can't explain it away so simply.My professional did it with my assistance. It was installed in the top of my large super tower gaming case.I am not a acronym person I know not what a PITA means. No heat sinks or ram slots were interfered with. Once again does that have any significance for an H220 installation? I need a straight up answer. If I can't get one I'm searching for a custom water loop whose AMD bracket has no issues with the Crosshair V motherboard installation.


Pita means pain in the a$$. Why are you searching for a custom water loop if you don't plan on refilling? It sounds like this product just isn't for you, so just wait until Corsair releases an H150 or the like. This product is no different than the hundreds of others out there that just don't work for all applications. How many air coolers can't use the closest ram slots or don't work with certain heatsinks? So far there are two solutions listed. If you don't like those, then just find something else and be done.

You also have to remember that this product wasn't designed and r&d'd just for this use. The waterblock/pump combination are both designed as separate parts, and this was the working solution of a combination of them both. Swiftech may have not mentioned it yet, I believe strongly that they designed this pump to be a future DDC replacement, so they can't design it solely for the use of this product.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Did you install the H100 or did your professional install it? Because I installed my H80 (same bracketry as the H100) It was a PITA compared to installing the Apogee Drive II (same mounting hardware as H220) to my MVG. Although I do understand your concerns about this unit on certain AMD boards, you have to understand as well that a manufacturer can't test their product on every single board, and that without end-user correspondence, there's no way to know of problems on untested boards, and thus no way to fix the problems. On that note though, filing down one side of the bracket isn't a big deal at all, and doesn't require very much precision either. I've done such modifications in seconds with a die grinder


I do not own a die grinder, do not have a workshop and am not going to purchase a setup for such a purpose when I have neither space or money to blow through my nose. Any other useful suggestions?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I do not own a die grinder, do not have a workshop and am not going to purchase a setup for such a purpose when I have neither space or money to blow through my nose. Any other useful suggestions?


Low-number grit sandpaper would work fine as well for $3 or less


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Pita means pain in the a$$. Why are you searching for a custom water loop if you don't plan on refilling? It sounds like this product just isn't for you, so just wait until Corsair releases an H150 or the like. This product is no different than the hundreds of others out there that just don't work for all applications. How many air coolers can't use the closest ram slots or don't work with certain heatsinks? So far there are two solutions listed. If you don't like those, then just find something else and be done.
> 
> You also have to remember that this product wasn't designed and r&d'd just for this use. The waterblock/pump combination are both designed as separate parts, and this was the working solution of a combination of them both. Swiftech may have not mentioned it yet, I believe strongly that they designed this pump to be a future DDC replacement, so they can't design it solely for the use of this product.


Who are you to tell me to stick with Corsair? They make garbage and noisy garbage at that. If I can't get a quality AIO loop that fits my setup I will be forced to move to a custom loop. My temps are just too high to accept on my particular FX-8350. That is precisely why I wanted an H 320. I will speak to my installation guy and lay out the bracket issue . Possibly he can get the bracket filed down by a friend.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Low-number grit sandpaper would work fine as well for $3 or less


Thank you. I'll give it a whirl. Hopefully that sanding will be a 5 to 10 minute job. I appreciate you sticking with me on this issue so I can get a solution that is practical for my situation. I used to do all my installations until a year and 9 months ago when I had a massive heart attack. Can chalk that one up to my bosses who are dogs. I had to retire some 10 months ago.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Who are you to tell me to stick with Corsair? They make garbage and noisy garbage at that. If I can't get a quality AIO loop that fits my setup I will be forced to move to a custom loop. My temps are just too high to accept on my particular FX-8350. That is precisely why I wanted an H 320. I will speak to my installation guy and lay out the bracket issue . Possibly he can get the bracket filed down by a friend.


Sorry man, I wasn't seriously stating for you to stick with Corsair. It was a figure of speech. It seems we're both agitated at the moment. I don't know what you are on edge about, but I'm on edge from spending all afternoon unsuccessfully trying to repair a broken 50 yr old truck instead of working on my current project which is what I wanted to do. So I think it'd be best if we continue this conversation another time. On that note though,80 grit sandpaper backed with a hard surface and just couple minutes of sanding should do the trick just fine







.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thank you. I'll give it a whirl. Hopefully that sanding will be a 5 to 10 minute job. I appreciate you sticking with me on this issue so I can get a solution that is practical for my situation. I used to do all my installations until a year and 9 months ago when I had a massive heart attack. Can chalk that one up to my bosses who are dogs. I had to retire some 10 months ago.


Sorry to hear that. Glad we got it worked out







.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sorry man, I wasn't seriously stating for you to stick with Corsair. It was a figure of speech. It seems we're both agitated at the moment. I don't know what you are on edge about, but I'm on edge from spending all afternoon unsuccessfully trying to repair a broken 50 yr old truck instead of working on my current project which is what I wanted to do. So I think it'd be best if we continue this conversation another time. On that note though,80 grit sandpaper backed with a hard surface and just couple minutes of sanding should do the trick just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks. Your a good guy.Hope that truck thing goes smoothly.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thanks. Your a good guy.Hope that truck thing goes smoothly.


Thanks, me too. It's my new daily driver! I just bought it from my dad this week lol. '66 GMC long wide with a 305E V6 and 4 speed floor shift granny gears. All original, wood bed, under 70,000 original miles, but it's trashed pretty bad from sitting for years.


----------



## RemagCP

Hey if anyone is interested "Jab-Tech" has the H220 in stock, $140 plus ~$10 shipping. Also I'm pretty sure they are US only









Oops. Here is the link








http://www.jab-tech.com/water-cooling-full-kits/swiftech-h220-compact-drive-ii-plug-and-play-liquid-cooling-system/


----------



## glakr

Well, I am in the club now, but having issues.

I don't think my pump is running at all. Temp slowly rises constantly until reaching 70c while I am in the bios (New build, don't even have an OS installed yet). Fans are spinning. I have double checked everything and even removed block/pump and reapplied TIM. Same result.

On boot, I get Not CPU Fan detected.

Have splitter going to CPU FAN on MB. power is plugged in. Pump to Channel 1, and both fans also plugged into splitter. Fans spinning. Can't hear pump, which is not unexpected as it is supposed to be pretty quite, but even if I touch it I can't feel it running, which seems weird.

*Anybody have any ideas? I am about to pull this out and put the stock intel HSF on there so I can at least move forward with the build.*

BTW, coming from full custom loop so not new to water cooling. Was trying to simplify things with this build which isn't going so well







.


----------



## witeboy07

Almost done, but my monitor setup is done, just gotta wait on the 7970 water block.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Well, I am in the club now, but having issues.
> 
> I don't think my pump is running at all. Temp slowly rises constantly until reaching 70c while I am in the bios (New build, don't even have an OS installed yet). Fans are spinning. I have double checked everything and even removed block/pump and reapplied TIM. Same result.
> 
> On boot, I get Not CPU Fan detected.
> 
> Have splitter going to CPU FAN on MB. power is plugged in. Pump to Channel 1, and both fans also plugged into splitter. Fans spinning. Can't hear pump, which is not unexpected as it is supposed to be pretty quite, but even if I touch it I can't feel it running, which seems weird.
> 
> *Anybody have any ideas? I am about to pull this out and put the stock intel HSF on there so I can at least move forward with the build.*
> 
> BTW, coming from full custom loop so not new to water cooling. Was trying to simplify things with this build which isn't going so well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


have you tried bypassing the splitter? connect the pump directly to the PWM 4 pin on the motherboard. Leave all of the fans disconnected and see if you can hear it. If it's the first time you're starting it you'll hear a lot of water noise as it starts up.

Here is what mine sounds like:


----------



## nomargat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> have you tried bypassing the splitter? connect the pump directly to the PWM 4 pin on the motherboard. Leave all of the fans disconnected and see if you can hear it. If it's the first time you're starting it you'll hear a lot of water noise as it starts up.
> 
> Here is what mine sounds like:


ez12a, what app are you using?


----------



## xarot

Hi!

First poster here.

Sorry if this has been asked (a million times) before, but this is what I want to do: I want to mount the rad in push-configuration in Corsair 650D.

What I did was flip the rad around, simple as that. But what kind of screws should I use to mount the rad in top of the case? The top layer of the case is very thin, and standard computer screws (M4 I think?) are just too long as they would hit the rad fins. What I did in the mean time, was that I added some rubber spacers between the screw and the case and used only my fingers to tighten the screw.

How should this be done? There were no screws included to do this configuration, only to push fresh air from outside the case but not from inside. Or another option would have been to add another set of fans with the very long screws, but this is not possible in the case due to limited space.

For example how has this been done? http://www.swiftech.org/images/H220/Fractal-Design-R4.jpg

I know that asking this might be just plain dumb, should I just buy some spacers?









Thanks


----------



## AdamMT

Xarot,
Use the included long screws to mount the fans and then use the short screws that were originally used to hold the fans to mount the radiator to the case.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Well, I am in the club now, but having issues.
> 
> I don't think my pump is running at all. Temp slowly rises constantly until reaching 70c while I am in the bios (New build, don't even have an OS installed yet). Fans are spinning. I have double checked everything and even removed block/pump and reapplied TIM. Same result.
> 
> On boot, I get Not CPU Fan detected.
> 
> Have splitter going to CPU FAN on MB. power is plugged in. Pump to Channel 1, and both fans also plugged into splitter. Fans spinning. Can't hear pump, which is not unexpected as it is supposed to be pretty quite, but even if I touch it I can't feel it running, which seems weird.
> 
> *Anybody have any ideas? I am about to pull this out and put the stock intel HSF on there so I can at least move forward with the build.*
> 
> BTW, coming from full custom loop so not new to water cooling. Was trying to simplify things with this build which isn't going so well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sounds like another DOA pump. Contact Swiftech for replacement.


----------



## Magnum26

Having never done a water cooling system other than a H50 (which doesn't really count) I'm interested to know how easy this would be to upgrade tubing, coolant colour and extra rads. I'm thinking of getting a Define R4 but would like to add a waterblock to my GPU in the future (plan to upgrade to maxwell when they come out). I would like to change the tubing to clear and have blue coolant running through it and add the gpu block, maybe adding in a single 120 rad on the back of the case?

Ideas / thoughts welcome.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Having never done a water cooling system other than a H50 (which doesn't really count) I'm interested to know how easy this would be to upgrade tubing, coolant colour and extra rads. I'm thinking of getting a Define R4 but would like to add a waterblock to my GPU in the future (plan to upgrade to maxwell when they come out). I would like to change the tubing to clear and have blue coolant running through it and add the gpu block, maybe adding in a single 120 rad on the back of the case?
> 
> Ideas / thoughts welcome.


Check out Swiftech's Youtube video detailing the process of adding a GPU block. It's not that difficult.

I have the Fractal R4 and while the H220 is doable, it's awfully tight and with some (most?) mobos you will have to mount the fans below the radiator. In that config the reservoir is upside down so not really doing its job. I haven't had a problem, but some people have reported persistent gurgling noises when the rad is mounted upside down. You might consider the Midi R2 instead, as it's designed more with water cooling in mind.


----------



## glakr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> have you tried bypassing the splitter? connect the pump directly to the PWM 4 pin on the motherboard. Leave all of the fans disconnected and see if you can hear it. If it's the first time you're starting it you'll hear a lot of water noise as it starts up.
> 
> Here is what mine sounds like:


Just tried this. Pump to CPU FAN 4 pin directly. Still not hearing/feeling anything. Temps on their way up to 70c again where I will stop it. (at 66c as I type this)

Dangit. Looks like my pump is DOA. Glad this is Swiftech, since I know they will take care of this quickly.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomargat*
> 
> ez12a, what app are you using?


it is called Sound Meter


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Just tried this. Pump to CPU FAN 4 pin directly. Still not hearing/feeling anything. Temps on their way up to 70c again where I will stop it. (at 66c as I type this)
> 
> Dangit. Looks like my pump is DOA. Glad this is Swiftech, since I know they will take care of this quickly.


We're going to RMA this for you. I think I got your email this morning. Hope to hear back from you soon so that we can get you taken care of as quickly as possible. I'm sorry for the issue that this caused you. Please re-install your original heat sink before turning your system back on.


----------



## Fleat

Thanks for the heads up. I ordered the H220 from Jab-tech and used the promo code Facebook to save 7$.


----------



## glakr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're going to RMA this for you. I think I got your email this morning. Hope to hear back from you soon so that we can get you taken care of as quickly as possible. I'm sorry for the issue that this caused you. Please re-install your original heat sink before turning your system back on.


Yep, got your email. As expected, excellent customer service from Swiftech. I just called in with my CC for cross ship and forwarded my invoice so you should have that too now. Can't wait to get my replacement so I can see what this thing can really do. Thanks a TON! It is so rare to have a company engage the consumer like you guys do as well as provide top notch customer service. Stuff happens with products and though it kinda sucks when you are doing a new build like I am, it is no big deal when it is handled like you guys do it.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glakr*
> 
> Yep, got your email. As expected, excellent customer service from Swiftech. I just called in with my CC for cross ship and forwarded my invoice so you should have that too now. Can't wait to get my replacement so I can see what this thing can really do. Thanks a TON! It is so rare to have a company engage the consumer like you guys do as well as provide top notch customer service. Stuff happens with products and though it kinda sucks when you are doing a new build like I am, it is no big deal when it is handled like you guys do it.


Yep, Bryan (BramSLI1) has been helping me pick out the components for expanding the H220 with an extra rad, gpu block, and changing the tubing. I am not sure there is another company on this site that is so active in helping members.


----------



## Scorpion667

On my H220 pump I can hear intermittent gurgling (sounds like a "squirt" once a minute, not very noticeable) when I am stress testing with pump above 2200rpm. At 2200 rpm it is not frequent at all (1x every 5 min) where as at 3k rpm it does it about once every 50 seconds or so. At idle it does not occur, even with pump at 3k rpm (although I have heard it once or twice).
Can not hear it under 2k rpm. It was installed two days ago and system was not moved since. I tilted the system a bit on all sides to try to get all the air to rise up to the res. Getting great temps however, I watched Prim95 temps closely while the gurgling happens and does not seem to impact them, although that's not a very scientific test lol.

The WC kit is running in optimal conditions, 24-26c ambient and CPU is kept under 75c at all times. No heavy tension on the tube.

The rad is set up in the top of my switch 810 with fans as intake (push) and the rad fillport facing up. Prefer using my AP-15's over the Helix fans which have a "roar" to them even at low rpm.

Should I be worried or is this normal?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Xarot,
> Use the included long screws to mount the fans and then use the short screws that were originally used to hold the fans to mount the radiator to the case.


Adan that won't work because the included short screws are fan screws, not M3s.

In this situation, I think what he did with the washers is the ideal solution, unless he finds some shorter M3s.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> On my H220 pump I can hear intermittent gurgling (sounds like a "squirt" once a minute, not very noticeable) when I am stress testing with pump above 2200rpm. At 2200 rpm it is not frequent at all (1x every 5 min) where as at 3k rpm it does it about once every 50 seconds or so. At idle it does not occur, even with pump at 3k rpm (although I have heard it once or twice).
> Can not hear it under 2k rpm. It was installed two days ago and system was not moved since. I tilted the system a bit on all sides to try to get all the air to rise up to the res. Getting great temps however, I watched Prim95 temps closely while the gurgling happens and does not seem to impact them, although that's not a very scientific test lol.
> 
> The WC kit is running in optimal conditions, 24-26c ambient and CPU is kept under 75c at all times. No heavy tension on the tube.
> 
> The rad is set up in the top of my switch 810 with fans as intake (push) and the rad fillport facing up. Prefer using my AP-15's over the Helix fans which have a "roar" to them even at low rpm.
> 
> Should I be worried or is this normal?


That gurgling sound is most likely due to some air still being trapped in the pump. It should go away after another day or two. You can try running the pump at full speed for about an hour. That should get rid of it. Keep me posted though if the sound doesn't go away in the next few days.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Adan that won't work because the included short screws are fan screws, not M3s.
> 
> In this situation, I think what he did with the washers is the ideal solution, unless he finds some shorter M3s.


I'm pretty sure that the kit also comes with short M3 screws as well. If your's didn't then please let me know. Never mind, I'm wrong. Those short screws are short 6-32 screws, not M3 screws.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the kit also comes with short M3 screws as well. If your's didn't then please let me know.


Sorry, M3 is probably the standard screw size used in computer assembly (I was talking about M4 before). Anyway, with my kit, the M3s were used with the preattached fans, and then there were the very long screws and the standard fan screws (whetever these are called, but those you'd use attach a fan into the case).

I think that even the M3 is just too long to directly attach my rad into the top of the case. I am afraid I might damage the rad fins if I am not using washers with the screw?







If I take a look at my radiator, the screw holes are maybe a millimeter or two closer to the rad fins that on the other side. It's hard to explain...







So...if I just dial in some _*_short_*_ M3 screws and actually hit the rad fins, am I in trouble?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the kit also comes with short M3 screws as well. If your's didn't then please let me know.


Oh ok cool. I didn't see any but I didn't really look too much, as the first thing I did was add push/pull







.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Having never done a water cooling system other than a H50 (which doesn't really count) I'm interested to know how easy this would be to upgrade tubing, coolant colour and extra rads. I'm thinking of getting a Define R4 but would like to add a waterblock to my GPU in the future (plan to upgrade to maxwell when they come out). I would like to change the tubing to clear and have blue coolant running through it and add the gpu block, maybe adding in a single 120 rad on the back of the case?
> 
> Ideas / thoughts welcome.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Having never done a water cooling system other than a H50 (which doesn't really count) I'm interested to know how easy this would be to upgrade tubing, coolant colour and extra rads. I'm thinking of getting a Define R4 but would like to add a waterblock to my GPU in the future (plan to upgrade to maxwell when they come out). I would like to change the tubing to clear and have blue coolant running through it and add the gpu block, maybe adding in a single 120 rad on the back of the case?
> 
> Ideas / thoughts welcome.


I've never built a computer before and frankly do not know crap about computers. Here is my Swiftech h220 and the changes I made. It was pretty easy.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> I've never built a computer before and frankly do not know crap about computers. Here is my Swiftech h220 and the changes I made. It was pretty easy.


love it!


----------



## gsk3rd

Anyone want to start making clear tops with LED holes in it.


----------



## byomes

^^ would love to buy some, but make some? not so much


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That gurgling sound is most likely due to some air still being trapped in the pump. It should go away after another day or two. You can try running the pump at full speed for about an hour. That should get rid of it. Keep me posted though if the sound doesn't go away in the next few days.


Strange, mine started this same symptom the other day... only hear it when the pump gets over 2450 rpm...

If it's air in the pump... Will the rad chamber trap the bubble if the rad is mounted below the pump? (My current config in my RV02)

UPDATE:

After posting I went ahead and disabled Auto PWM CPU fan control in my BIOS and start back up... Pump running @ 2960 gurgling sound randomly... I started OCCT and left the room for a bit. Came back and stoped OCCT... Gurgling gone.

I wonder if that bubble is what was causing the temp spike I was getting randomly that would sometimes shut my system down when stress testing...

Now I've got to see if it runs cooler


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Strange, mine started this same symptom the other day... only hear it when the pump gets over 2450 rpm...
> 
> If it's air in the pump... Will the rad chamber trap the bubble if the rad is mounted below the pump? (My current config in my RV02)
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> After posting I went ahead and disabled Auto PWM CPU fan control in my BIOS and start back up... Pump running @ 2960 gurgling sound randomly... I started OCCT and left the room for a bit. Came back and stoped OCCT... Gurgling gone.
> 
> I wonder if that bubble is what was causing the temp spike I was getting randomly that would sometimes shut my system down when stress testing...
> 
> Now I've got to see if it runs cooler


If the rad is mounted below the pump you're going to need to tilt your case so that the bubble will travel up to the rad. When you have it set up like this you will probably need to do this occasionally due to the natural tendency for air to rise and therefore get trapped in the pump.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the rad is mounted below the pump you're going to need to tilt your case so that the bubble will travel up to the rad. When you have it set up like this you will probably need to do this occasionally due to the natural tendency for air to rise and therefore get trapped in the pump.


Solid,

Thanks for lookin' out


----------



## Tom Thumb

Is it save to assume that the 8 longest screws in the kit are for mounting another set of fans on the other side of the rad for a push/pull set up?
Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Is it save to assume that the 8 longest screws in the kit are for mounting another set of fans on the other side of the rad for a push/pull set up?
> Thanks.


Yes, you can use those screws to do a push/pull set up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Just to let everyone here know, I can confirm that Micro-Center and NewEgg will be getting the H220 in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Adan that won't work because the included short screws are fan screws, not M3s.
> 
> In this situation, I think what he did with the washers is the ideal solution, unless he finds some shorter M3s.


If it's a question of mounting the fans below the radiator you can mount them with the long screws and then use the short screws that originally mounted the fans to attach the rad to the case. If it's push pull you would keep those fans attached and then use the long screws to mount the second set of fans. Either way there are enough screws in the kit.


----------



## spikexp

The top of the pump/block doesn't seem like it can't be taking out easily. It seemed like there was some kind of glue and now the top (under the cover) as mark on it...


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> Anyone want to start making clear tops with LED holes in it.


How difficult is it to get that cover off?


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That gurgling sound is most likely due to some air still being trapped in the pump. It should go away after another day or two. You can try running the pump at full speed for about an hour. That should get rid of it. Keep me posted though if the sound doesn't go away in the next few days.


Cool. It's not a big deal noise wise, was JW if this is an early sign of failure. I figured I had a bubble stuck somewhere, should clear itself in a few days hehe =P


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> How difficult is it to get that cover off?


It's pretty easy, except mine had glue near the edges, and one of the plastic pegs that locks it in place broke about halfway (still stays in fine). My initial plan was to take the plastic decorative piece off completely as I love the industrial look but unfortunately there is glue on the pump and it is ugly. 99% isopropic alcohol didn't do anything for removing that glue lol.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cool. It's not a big deal noise wise, was JW if this is an early sign of failure. I figured I had a bubble stuck somewhere, should clear itself in a few days hehe =P


yeah mine gurgles but hasnt failed *knock on wood*







I honestly think it'll be fine and i doubt bubbles are the cause of pump failures in this thread.

I also broke one of the pegs wiggling the top cover off.

anyone try topping off their reservoir to see if that helps with the gurgling?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> I've never built a computer before and frankly do not know crap about computers. Here is my Swiftech h220 and the changes I made. It was pretty easy.


Love that look Guinner. Planning to do UV red or UV blue tubing myself as well as expand. Are you going to expand your H220?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yeah mine gurgles but hasnt failed *knock on wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly think it'll be fine and i doubt bubbles are the cause of pump failures in this thread.
> 
> I also broke one of the pegs wiggling the top cover off.
> 
> anyone try topping off their reservoir to see if that helps with the gurgling?


I believe that I had a customer that I was helping via email that had the issue with gurgling. I told him to try and top off the reservoir and the noise went away. Also be advised that if you have your pump mounted higher than your reservoir this will cause you to have to occasionally tilt your case to raise the reservoir above the pump. This will help to force the bubble up to the reservoir.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I believe that I had a customer that I was helping via email that had the issue with gurgling. I told him to try and top off the reservoir and the noise went away. Also be advised that if you have your pump mounted higher than your reservoir this will cause you to have to occasionally tilt your case to raise the reservoir above the pump. This will help to force the bubble up to the reservoir.


nice. I may have to try this eventually.. i dont mind the trickling noise but at the same time i dont want to break any of the "seals" if you will from the factory.









read through the xbits lab review. Interesting decision to use Corsair AF fans on the radiator even though they're not advertised explicitly for radiator use. Still beats the h100i with SP fans though lol.


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> It's pretty easy, except mine had glue near the edges, and one of the plastic pegs that locks it in place broke about halfway (still stays in fine). My initial plan was to take the plastic decorative piece off completely as I love the industrial look but unfortunately there is glue on the pump and it is ugly. 99% isopropic alcohol didn't do anything for removing that glue lol.


Yea I haven't tried yet. I think it would be awesome to get some clear tops for it though. Anyone listening????? cough cough swiftech cough cough.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I also broke one of the pegs wiggling the top cover off.


So I guess it would be advised not to try and remove the pump cover. Seems these are glued on!
I was thinking of painting it. Oh well!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> Yea I haven't tried yet. I think it would be awesome to get some clear tops for it though. Anyone listening????? cough cough swiftech cough cough.


I wish they would have built the top similar to the Apogee II that would've aided in the aesthetics of the pump/block. Though i imagine if you could get an acrylic top with a embedded LED, you could probably mold some kind of colored plastic to fill the S and give it it's color. Just a random thought. I do love the light on the apogee II though it's epic.


----------



## Marracuda

Does any of u guys know a shop in Europe that still has these in stock? I´m from Germany and they dont even sell it here yet, but as i was just about to order one form overlocked.co.uk it got out of stock :/ Would really appreciate the help, cant wait to get one of them


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just to let everyone here know, I can confirm that Micro-Center and NewEgg will be getting the H220 in the next couple of weeks.


How about any UK sources? I can't get my Define R4 until the H220 is in stock.


----------



## Magnum26

Could someone also tell me if I was to replace the tubing what size tubing I would need? I've never done a proper water cooling kit before but would like to mod this a little and add a GPU block in when I get my new GPU. Also what barbs / fittings etc would I need to fit the tubing etc?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> Does any of u guys know a shop in Europe that still has these in stock? I´m from Germany and they dont even sell it here yet, but as i was just about to order one form overlocked.co.uk it got out of stock :/ Would really appreciate the help, cant wait to get one of them


Well...a Finnish store has those in stock (I have ordered tens of orders from there, but I also live in Finland).

http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/H220

You could ask if they could ship to Germany as well. Just drop them an email and ask: [email protected]


----------



## xarot

Double post...


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> Does any of u guys know a shop in Europe that still has these in stock? I´m from Germany and they dont even sell it here yet, but as i was just about to order one form overlocked.co.uk it got out of stock :/ Would really appreciate the help, cant wait to get one of them


Here in Portugal we have it in at least 2 or 3 online stores, in stock.

http://www.pcdiga.com/2/10014/Kit-Water-Cooling-Swiftech-H220?utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=catalogo&utm_source=kuantokusta

http://www.globaldata.pt/index.aspx?p=ProdDetail&ProdId=381439&utm_source=kuantokusta

http://www.alientech.pt/product_info.php?products_id=20572&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=catalogo&utm_source=kuantokusta

This are 3 of the best online stores we have in Portugal. You can contact them and see if they ship to Germany.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> How about any UK sources? I can't get my Define R4 until the H220 is in stock.


this store reckons they will have some tomorrow

though would take it with a pinch of salt till they actually show as in stock

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-17411.html


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Could someone also tell me if I was to replace the tubing what size tubing I would need? I've never done a proper water cooling kit before but would like to mod this a little and add a GPU block in when I get my new GPU. Also what barbs / fittings etc would I need to fit the tubing etc?


3/8 ID 5/8 OD for your tubing. Any barbs / fittings of your choice with 3/8id 5/8 OD


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Could someone also tell me if I was to replace the tubing what size tubing I would need? I've never done a proper water cooling kit before but would like to mod this a little and add a GPU block in when I get my new GPU. Also what barbs / fittings etc would I need to fit the tubing etc?


G 1/4- Fill Port Thread

5/8" x 3/8" - tubing


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for your tubing. Any barbs / fittings of your choice with 3/8id 5/8 OD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> G 1/4- Fill Port Thread
> 
> 5/8" x 3/8" - tubing


Thanks very much both.









How much tubing in length would I need to have to add a gpu block on if it is sold in meters? 2? And how many barbs / fittings would I need? 2 for each? I take it I wouldn't need any for the rad or pump block as they already have barbs on there?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Thanks very much both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much tubing in length would I need to have to add a gpu block on if it is sold in meters? 2? And how many barbs / fittings would I need? 2 for each? I take it I wouldn't need any for the rad or pump block as they already have barbs on there?


That's not really something someone can answer for you, referring to tubing length... Just get a big, fat loop of whatever color and brand you want, and cut to what your system' fit is, then save the rest. It's not like it's gonna go stale!

Thanks - T


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> That's not really something someone can answer for you, referring to tubing length... Just get a big, fat loop of whatever color and brand you want, and cut to what your system' fit is, then save the rest. It's not like it's gonna go stale!
> 
> Thanks - T


Fair enough 2 meters should be enough


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Fair enough 2 meters should be enough


Yeah, I'm buying 2 10-foot packs because I'm a "measure once cut twice, OH LOOK IT'S STILL WRONG" type of person... So yeah... I'm a bad example.

Thanks - T


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Thanks very much both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much tubing in length would I need to have to add a gpu block on if it is sold in meters? 2? And how many barbs / fittings would I need? 2 for each? I take it I wouldn't need any for the rad or pump block as they already have barbs on there?


I just ordered everything to expand the H220 for a gpu. I like to oc things so I don't think it is reasonable to ask the H220 to cool both by itself. I am adding a 360 size rad to the loop, I will be using the:
Swiftech MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series: MCR320-QP-RES-R2.
This is a rad with a reservoir because the stock H220 rad will be at the bottom of the case, and you want a reservoir above the pump.

In addition to your gpu water block you will need two fitting for it, and another two for any rad you add to the loop. So I ordered 4 of these:
Swiftech ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting: 5-8x3-8-G1-4-CF-BK

You will need to replace the coolant in the loop, and you always want a little extra so I ordered two of these:
Swiftech HydrX PM 2 Coolant: Hydrx-PM2

The tubing is up to you as to color, but you always want extra not less these packs come in 10 foot loops, and as stated you want 3/8-5/8.
Plain, and less expensive:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13727/ex-tub-991/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_38ID_x_58OD_-_UV_Black_.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1756
Little more money:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17887/ex-tub-1620/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-58-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1938

You also want some non-capacitive, and non-conductive TIM to install your block on the GPU.

As shown in the Swiftech video, you need a paper clip or power supply jumper connector to run the pump while filling it. Hope that helps.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I just ordered everything to expand the H220 for a gpu. I like to oc things so I don't think it is reasonable to ask the H220 to cool both by itself. I am adding a 360 size rad to the loop, I will be using the:
> Swiftech MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series: MCR320-QP-RES-R2.
> This is a rad with a reservoir because the stock H220 rad will be at the bottom of the case, and you want a reservoir above the pump.
> 
> In addition to your gpu water block you will need two fitting for it, and another two for any rad you add to the loop. So I ordered 4 of these:
> Swiftech ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting: 5-8x3-8-G1-4-CF-BK
> 
> You will need to replace the coolant in the loop, and you always want a little extra so I ordered two of these:
> Swiftech HydrX PM 2 Coolant: Hydrx-PM2
> 
> The tubing is up to you as to color, but you always want extra not less these packs come in 10 foot loops, and as stated you want 3/8-5/8.
> Plain, and less expensive:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13727/ex-tub-991/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_38ID_x_58OD_-_UV_Black_.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1756
> Little more money:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17887/ex-tub-1620/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-58-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1938
> 
> You also want some non-capacitive, and non-conductive TIM to install your block on the GPU.
> 
> As shown in the Swiftech video, you need a paper clip or power supply jumper connector to run the pump while filling it. Hope that helps.


Don't forget that if the block doesn't come with any G1/4 plugs, you'll need at least 2 (maybe more if using certain blocks) to plug the unneeded G1/4" ports, since all blocks have at least 4.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I just ordered everything to expand the H220 for a gpu. I like to oc things so I don't think it is reasonable to ask the H220 to cool both by itself. I am adding a 360 size rad to the loop, I will be using the:
> Swiftech MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series: MCR320-QP-RES-R2.
> This is a rad with a reservoir because the stock H220 rad will be at the bottom of the case, and you want a reservoir above the pump.
> 
> In addition to your gpu water block you will need two fitting for it, and another two for any rad you add to the loop. So I ordered 4 of these:
> Swiftech ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting: 5-8x3-8-G1-4-CF-BK
> 
> You will need to replace the coolant in the loop, and you always want a little extra so I ordered two of these:
> Swiftech HydrX PM 2 Coolant: Hydrx-PM2
> 
> The tubing is up to you as to color, but you always want extra not less these packs come in 10 foot loops, and as stated you want 3/8-5/8.
> Plain, and less expensive:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13727/ex-tub-991/Danger_Den_DreamFlex_Value_Pack_-_Tubing_Clamps_Tube_Cutter_38ID_x_58OD_-_UV_Black_.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1756
> Little more money:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17887/ex-tub-1620/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA10-58-R_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?id=2QbdpVce&mv_pc=1938
> 
> You also want some non-capacitive, and non-conductive TIM to install your block on the GPU.
> 
> As shown in the Swiftech video, you need a paper clip or power supply jumper connector to run the pump while filling it. Hope that helps.


This is very helpful thanks very much and having the item numbers will help me source the parts over here, so thanks for that. I won't have space for a triple rad but I was thinking maybe the H220 in the top and a 140mm on the back would be sufficient to cool the cpu and gpu together. I hope. I was thinking of clear tubing so then if I decided at some point I want a different colour all I have to do is add in a different colour coolant. (English spelling).


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Don't forget that if the block doesn't come with any G1/4 plugs, you'll need at least 2 (maybe more if using certain blocks) to plug the unneeded G1/4" ports, since all blocks have at least 4.


Good, point, mine comes with plugs so no worries there, but everyone should check.

I have found that Frozen and Swiftech are more than willing to help complete water cooling newbs so people can contact them with questions about what to order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> This is very helpful thanks very much and having the item numbers will help me source the parts over here, so thanks for that. I won't have space for a triple rad but I was thinking maybe the H220 in the top and a 140mm on the back would be sufficient to cool the cpu and gpu together. I hope. I was thinking of clear tubing so then if I decided at some point I want a different colour all I have to do is add in a different colour coolant. (English spelling).


I am new to water cooling, but I have read that you are not supposed to add coloring to your fluid. You should get colored tubing, then just use the coolant or distilled water. Not that you have to do that, you can do clear tubing and colored coolant, it is just that the preferred method is simple coolant and colored tubing.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Good, point, mine comes with plugs so no worries there, but everyone should check.
> 
> I have found that Frozen and Swiftech are more than willing to help complete water cooling newbs so people can contact them with questions about what to order.
> I am new to water cooling, but I have read that you are not supposed to add coloring to your fluid. You should get colored tubing, then just use the coolant or distilled water. Not that you have to do that, you can do clear tubing and colored coolant, it is just that the preferred method is simple coolant and colored tubing.


Do rads have two or 4 ports? I was mainly looking at clear tubing and coloured coolant as it's cheaper and easier (as i'm lazy). I find it hard to find all Swiftech parts in stock in one online outlet over here in the UK.

Maybe a Swiftech Rep could assist me









Thanks for all the info guys it's very much appreciated.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Do rads have two or 4 ports? I was mainly looking at clear tubing and coloured coolant as it's cheaper and easier (as i'm lazy). I find it hard to find all Swiftech parts in stock in one online outlet over here in the UK.
> 
> Maybe a Swiftech Rep could assist me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info guys it's very much appreciated.


Our rads have two ports. The only radiators we have that have four ports are our drive radiators. These have an integrated pump with the radiator. As far as UK resellers go the ones I know of are Chillblast, Overclock.co.uk, PIXmania, Scan Computers, and Special Tech. Try them and see if they can help you. There is also our master distributor Bacata.net for Europe.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Do rads have two or 4 ports? I was mainly looking at clear tubing and coloured coolant as it's cheaper and easier (as i'm lazy). I find it hard to find all Swiftech parts in stock in one online outlet over here in the UK.
> 
> Maybe a Swiftech Rep could assist me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info guys it's very much appreciated.


On the coolant:

From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm not) the reason for distilled water + colored tubing is that IF a leak happens, there's much less of a chance of damage via the fluid.
I know EK states that their fluid is non-conductive UNTIL it comes in contact with other liquids or dust of any kind (read: airborne contamination of any kind), so that means that in a leak-caused spill, the little dust you do have (which is all ionized) will cause the fluid that WAS non-conductive to freely pass a charge.
I was going to go clear tubing + EK green fluid, but I'm swapping for the opposite...
I'm too much of a worry wart for that.









Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> On the coolant:
> 
> From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm not) the reason for distilled water + colored tubing is that IF a leak happens, there's much less of a chance of damage via the fluid.
> I know EK states that their fluid is non-conductive UNTIL it comes in contact with other liquids or dust of any kind (read: airborne contamination of any kind), so that means that in a leak-caused spill, the little dust you do have (which is all ionized) will cause the fluid that WAS non-conductive to freely pass a charge.
> I was going to go clear tubing + EK green fluid, but I'm swapping for the opposite...
> I'm too much of a worry wart for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


The other reason why people suggest not using colored coolant is because some have been known to break down and clog the loop. I have just recently started using a colored additive to distilled water and I'm going to be checking it in a couple of weeks. I'll let you guys know what I find. I'm using Promo Chill's blood red concentrate.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our rads have two ports. The only radiators we have that have four ports are our drive radiators. These have an integrated pump with the radiator. As far as UK resellers go the ones I know of are Chillblast, Overclock.co.uk, PIXmania, Scan Computers, and Special Tech. Try them and see if they can help you. There is also our master distributor Bacata.net for Europe.


Thanks for the info, it's good to know they only have two ports, just means I can work out how much it would cost me once I can find your "lock" fittings in stock somewhere... But I'm in no rush so I'll find them eventually.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The other reason why people suggest not using colored coolant is because some have been known to break down and clog the loop. I have just recently started using a colored additive to distilled water and I'm going to be checking it in a couple of weeks. I'll let you guys know what I find. I'm using Promo Chill's blood red concentrate.


Let me know what you think is the best once you've had a good test of your current setup and I'll go with that instead as it seems coloured coolant is a big no no.









Probably go with Distilled water and a coloured additive with clear tubing if it doesn't clog the system. I'm not a fan of coloured tubing as clear gives me the flexibility to change colours as and when I want to.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Let me know what you think is the best once you've had a good test of your current setup and I'll go with that instead as it seems coloured coolant is a big no no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably go with Distilled water and a coloured additive with clear tubing if it doesn't clog the system. I'm not a fan of coloured tubing as clear gives me the flexibility to change colours as and when I want to.


That's the reason I went with clear tubing and colored coolant. It was also my fiance's suggestion because she didn't like the color of our HydrX green coolant. She said that it made her feel like she'd get radiation poisoning from standing too close to it. I told her that was one of the reasons I liked it.







The blood red look though works well in my black Switch 810. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## leon63

Got the unit shipped in from the states yesterday. Installed and running smoothly so far








No more of that faint H100i hum









Pump @ 1200RPM and fans @ 600RPM it's more quiet than our cat purring.





Bland case I'll admit but it's quiet and gets the job done.

The 5.25in bays were useless so I shoved an acrylic panel for a 120mm fan there with some screws for a magnetic filter to stick to.
I'll post the printable template if anyone wants it.


----------



## Tom Thumb

So what's the consensus on applying TIM for this unit. Is everyone using Swiftechs line method?


----------



## MadGoat

I used the line method with a dot of tim on either side of the line...


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> So what's the consensus on applying TIM for this unit. Is everyone using Swiftechs line method?


Line here as well


----------



## AdamMT

I use five small dots -- like the five on a die.


----------



## eoniverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the rad is mounted below the pump you're going to need to tilt your case so that the bubble will travel up to the rad. When you have it set up like this you will probably need to do this occasionally due to the natural tendency for air to rise and therefore get trapped in the pump.


I have some newb questions about this reply. This is my first WC installation. I do not have any 'gurgling' noises. ( I did for a brief minute when I first installed it about two weeks ago.)

I have a Switch 810. My H220 is mounted to the bottom front of the case. Reservoir is facing up. Air is in push with fans mounted on the bottom (...going to try push/pull in about a week).

I have left the system running full on (Asrock x58 extreme does not have many options in BIOS).

How often would you suggest I (easily) unbolt the reservoir and place it above my cpu to top off or remove trapped air? What should I be paying attention to and listening for?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eoniverse*
> 
> I have some newb questions about this reply. This is my first WC installation. I do not have any 'gurgling' noises. ( I did for a brief minute when I first installed it about two weeks ago.)
> 
> I have a Switch 810. My H220 is mounted to the bottom front of the case. Reservoir is facing up. Air is in push with fans mounted on the bottom (...going to try push/pull in about a week).
> 
> I have left the system running full on (Asrock x58 extreme does not have many options in BIOS).
> 
> How often would you suggest I (easily) unbolt the reservoir and place it above my cpu to top off or remove trapped air? What should I be paying attention to and listening for?


If this kit isn't making any gurgling noises then there is no need for you to do anything. Those noises will tell you when there is a bubble trapped in the pump and this is when you'll need to (easily) unbolt the reservoir and place it above your CPU. You should only have to top it off in about two to three years under normal conditions.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leon63*
> 
> Got the unit shipped in from the states yesterday. Installed and running smoothly so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No more of that faint H100i hum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump @ 1200RPM and fans @ 600RPM it's more quiet than our cat purring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bland case I'll admit but it's quiet and gets the job done.
> 
> The 5.25in bays were useless so I shoved an acrylic panel for a 120mm fan there with some screws for a magnetic filter to stick to.
> I'll post the printable template if anyone wants it.


Nice, later on Antec is releasing a window for the P280, should add a nice look yo your case.


----------



## gjbquist

First time posting here. I've been lurking for a while, in fact Overclock.net introduced me to the H220, which I have just recently installed. I have a bit of a problem with mine however. The pump runs at roughly 3500rpm 100% of the time. I'm using the Asrock Extreme6 MB which actually has two 4 pin fan ports. I've tested both ports with the Swiftech splitter and both properly manage the fan speeds. However, my pump always runs at 3500 rpm no matter what.

I have everything installed and even took a picture to post here (haven't transferred it to my computer yet). The idea of taking it apart again is somewhat depressing. Is that what I'm going to have to do?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> First time posting here. I've been lurking for a while, in fact Overclock.net introduced me to the H220, which I have just recently installed. I have a bit of a problem with mine however. The pump runs at roughly 3500rpm 100% of the time. I'm using the Asrock Extreme6 MB which actually has two 4 pin fan ports. I've tested both ports with the Swiftech splitter and both properly manage the fan speeds. However, my pump always runs at 3500 rpm no matter what.
> 
> I have everything installed and even took a picture to post here (haven't transferred it to my computer yet). The idea of taking it apart again is somewhat depressing. Is that what I'm going to have to do?


Have you checked in the BIOS to see if PWM setting are set to 100% all the time?


----------



## gjbquist

Yep. As I mentioned I tested using the PWM splitter that comes with the H220. I have 4 fans attached to it. I'm able to adjust the speed of the fans in the bios and with fan utilities. Both 4 pin ports on the motherboard work just fine. Except when I plug the H220 pump into them. In either port, the pump runs at 100%, regardless of bios or software settings. (I'm using 4 Helix Swiftech PWM fans.)


----------



## CTM Audi

Assuming its not a software thing, look in the 4pin connector of the pump. Mine had the blue PWM signal wire installed upside down, so it wouldnt make contact with the pin to adjust the speed. Just had to pull it out, turn it around, bend the bracket back, and put it back in.


----------



## vlamnire

A single H220 cooling processor and 2 GTX 680s under load is like 80C.


----------



## gjbquist

It doesn't look like it is in backwards. The wires are ordered Black, Yellow, Green, Blue. Is it possible that the plug was wired wrong? The wires don't look cracked.


----------



## ez12a

check to see if the 4th wire on the pump connector is loose or not making contact. I'm guessing there's some communication problem for the PWM signal.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> It doesn't look like it is in backwards. The wires are ordered Black, Yellow, Green, Blue. Is it possible that the plug was wired wrong? The wires don't look cracked.


The order of the wires was right on mine, but the blue one was pushed in upside down. So the wire would come out when installed. Look inside it to see if it looks the same for all of the holes. And look at the top holes where the clips hold the pins in place.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> It doesn't look like it is in backwards. The wires are ordered Black, Yellow, Green, Blue. Is it possible that the plug was wired wrong? The wires don't look cracked.


If you're using our splitter, do you have the pump plugged into channel one? This could be the cause of the problem you're having. Also make sure that the PWM connector is seated properly on the PWM header. This is a common problem particularly if you're trying to get to it at a difficult angle. I've actually done this myself. I found that the pump wasn't running properly and this was due to not having the connector plugged into the header properly on our splitter.


----------



## CTM Audi

Extra parts for expanding my unit.



Instead of the usual compression fittings, I decided to match the stock look of the pump and rad's fittings. So I got some metal clamps and painted them black.





Sadly, I cant start work on it until the new H220 from RMA comes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Extra parts for expanding my unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of the usual compression fittings, I decided to match the stock look of the pump and rad's fittings. So I got some metal clamps and painted them black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, I cant start work on it until the new H220 from RMA comes.


That's going to look really nice!


----------



## ez12a

i wonder when Swiftech will come out with some white tubing. might be tempted to mod my h220 a little early when they make it available.







going for that stormtrooper theme


----------



## CTM Audi

I have an RMA question. The only thing I really need to RMA is the pump/block, but a whole new kit was sent.
I already used a foam gasket on my current rad (and it cant be reused), which also doesnt have any bent fins. Id like to keep that rad, and just swap the pump/block when I do the expansion. Can I do that for the RMA, just swap that part (and refill it obviously), or do I have to replace all of it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I have an RMA question. The only thing I really need to RMA is the pump/block, but a whole new kit was sent.
> I already used a foam gasket on my current rad (and it cant be reused), which also doesnt have any bent fins. Id like to keep that rad, and just swap the pump/block when I do the expansion. Can I do that for the RMA, just swap that part (and refill it obviously), or do I have to replace all of it?


I'm going to have Gabe or Stephen answer this. I'm really not in a position to answer that question. You'll get a response shortly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I have an RMA question. The only thing I really need to RMA is the pump/block, but a whole new kit was sent.
> I already used a foam gasket on my current rad (and it cant be reused), which also doesnt have any bent fins. Id like to keep that rad, and just swap the pump/block when I do the expansion. Can I do that for the RMA, just swap that part (and refill it obviously), or do I have to replace all of it?


Gabe says that's fine. Just send us back the pump/block unit with the new radiator attached.


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're using our splitter, do you have the pump plugged into channel one? This could be the cause of the problem you're having. Also make sure that the PWM connector is seated properly on the PWM header. This is a common problem particularly if you're trying to get to it at a difficult angle. I've actually done this myself. I found that the pump wasn't running properly and this was due to not having the connector plugged into the header properly on our splitter.


I tried using the pump with the splitter in channel one and got some interesting results. The RPM readout showed a steady 3500rpm and the tone given off by the pump remained the same, regardless of the fan speed settings. However, the fan's speeds did change. So that is a bit weird. Any ideas? I also tried using the pump without any fans running. When changing the speed of the fan port, there was no audible change coming from the pump. I'm assuming it just isn't responding and is running at full. It actually isn't that loud, but it is annoying that I can't get it to slow down.

When the PWM fans are plugged into the 1st port on the splitter, it does show their correct RPM.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> I tried using the pump with the splitter in channel one and got some interesting results. The RPM readout showed a steady 3500rpm and the tone given off by the pump remained the same, regardless of the fan speed settings. However, the fan's speeds did change. So that is a bit weird. Any ideas? I also tried using the pump without any fans running. When changing the speed of the fan port, there was no audible change coming from the pump. I'm assuming it just isn't responding and is running at full. It actually isn't that loud, but it is annoying that I can't get it to slow down.
> 
> When the PWM fans are plugged into the 1st port on the splitter, it does show their correct RPM.


If you've tried plugging the pump into the motherboard headers directly and you're getting the same problem, this sounds like there might be an issue with the connection or the electronics. I'll look into this and keep you posted.


----------



## BramSLI1

gjbquist,

In talking with Stephen, if you can't adjust the speed of the pump, even if you have it plugged directly into the motherboard, then there is something wrong with it and we'll have to RMA it. Let me know if this is the case.


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> gjbquist,
> 
> In talking with Stephen, if you can't adjust the speed of the pump, even if you have it plugged directly into the motherboard, then there is something wrong with it and we'll have to RMA it. Let me know if this is the case.


I was hoping you would have some magical solution, other than that. LOL

I tried plugging it directly into the motherboard first. It is pretty clear that it is not responding to the PWM signal.

So I guess I need an RMA. Can you guys ship a replacement that I can swap it with?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> Yep. As I mentioned I tested using the PWM splitter that comes with the H220. I have 4 fans attached to it. I'm able to adjust the speed of the fans in the bios and with fan utilities. Both 4 pin ports on the motherboard work just fine. Except when I plug the H220 pump into them. In either port, the pump runs at 100%, regardless of bios or software settings. (I'm using 4 Helix Swiftech PWM fans.)


Check the PWM connector wire (blue). Sounds like it is not getting contact or something with the pump. I purposely pulled out the blue wire from the connector to test full speed all the time. Seems odd that you are seeing "3500" rpm, so perhaps the green and blue wires are reversed? maybe not but easy enough to accidentally happen. The outer most wire should be the blue one coming from the pump. Green is the same as yellow on the fans and for reading rpm.

Could just be the pump, but 3500 seems high. Max speed I could get was just under 3000.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> On the coolant:
> 
> From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm not) the reason for distilled water + colored tubing is that IF a leak happens, there's much less of a chance of damage via the fluid.
> I know EK states that their fluid is non-conductive UNTIL it comes in contact with other liquids or dust of any kind (read: airborne contamination of any kind), so that means that in a leak-caused spill, the little dust you do have (which is all ionized) will cause the fluid that WAS non-conductive to freely pass a charge.
> I was going to go clear tubing + EK green fluid, but I'm swapping for the opposite...
> I'm too much of a worry wart for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


No fluid is non-conductive once it comes in contact with the metals in a loop. If you leak regardless of the fluid it can cause damage.
Basically don't worry about the conductive vs non, none are safer than others. Best you can do is use good barbs and clamps and do thorough leak testing.

The benefits to distilled + biocide is low maintence. i have personally run distilled loops for two+ years without any need to change tubing or fluids. UV tubing will hold it's color for a very long time and still look new with water. UV dyes and coolants will loose their vibrance fairly shortly. Anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months is about as long as they look fresh. They also dye tubing and blocks etc so it usually requires replacing the tubing when you flush. Dye blockage is more a scapegoat than real, tubing plasticizer and radiator flux is much more likely to cause blockage, but naturally when dyed a color of the color of the fluid, the fluid gets the blame. Depends on the dye and coolant too, some better than others. I would suggest UV colored tubing myselfband avoid the high maintence of dyes, but either can work fine.


----------



## AdamMT

Are you certain that you're plugging into a PWM header? As I discovered, not all four pin headers are PWM enabled. It may be that the fans are being voltage regulated and maybe that doesn't work for the pump?


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Check the PWM connector wire (blue). Sounds like it is not getting contact or something with the pump. I purposely pulled out the blue wire from the connector to test full speed all the time. Seems odd that you are seeing "3500" rpm, so perhaps the green and blue wires are reversed? maybe not but easy enough to accidentally happen. The outer most wire should be the blue one coming from the pump. Green is the same as yellow on the fans and for reading rpm.
> 
> Could just be the pump, but 3500 seems high. Max speed I could get was just under 3000.


Thank you chiming in. The 3500 is a round number. It seems to change slightly plus or minus 10rpm. But yes it is in that range. (At least that is what is being displayed.) It seems like it should be louder, but I can at least tell that its speed is not changing. CPU temp is around 27c at idle.

I thought the blue and green wires might be reversed as well, but I didn't want to tear anything apart without Swiftechs' ok. I'm going to take another close look at it though.

Edit: It looks like the wires are correctly positioned and making contact. I suspect there is a crack in the blue wire somewhere. I looked at the reported speeds in bios and it ranges from 3440-3490 or so. If it weren't under warranty I'd tear more into it, but I'd rather just get it replaced.

(AdamMT - thanks, yes I am using a PWM header. I verified the header works with PWM fans. It is just the pump that isn't responding properly.)


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> No fluid is non-conductive once it comes in contact with the metals in a loop. If you leak regardless of the fluid it can cause damage.
> Basically don't worry about the conductive vs non, none are safer than others. Best you can do is use good barbs and clamps and do thorough leak testing.
> 
> The benefits to distilled + biocide is low maintence. i have personally run distilled loops for two+ years without any need to change tubing or fluids. UV tubing will hold it's color for a very long time and still look new with water. UV dyes and coolants will loose their vibrance fairly shortly. Anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months is about as long as they look fresh. They also dye tubing and blocks etc so it usually requires replacing the tubing when you flush. Dye blockage is more a scapegoat than real, tubing plasticizer and radiator flux is much more likely to cause blockage, but naturally when dyed a color of the color of the fluid, the fluid gets the blame. Depends on the dye and coolant too, some better than others. I would suggest UV colored tubing myselfband avoid the high maintence of dyes, but either can work fine.


Martin, would you suggest distilled/PTnuke or just go with Swiftech's HydrX PM 2?


----------



## Martinm210

PM2 for warranty coverage and extra security, but no mixed metals so options are pretty open.


----------



## CTM Audi

I went ahead and bought Hydrx2 since I have a blue theme (and blue tubing). I always either used Hydrx 1 + distilled, or distilled + PTnuke + Pentosin for color. Never had any issues with any of them.


----------



## Pure2sin

If you are using the ASrock Extreme6 I would connect the pump or the splitter to the "CPU Fan 1" which is number (7) on the Mobo diagram (4 pin PWM). Then go into the BIOS and set all the fans to "FULL ON". Start Windows and install SpeedFan. After it's installed you should be able to see (Sys, CPU and Aux) Try to decrease the CPU percentage to 0 and see if the pump and or the fans turn off.

It should go (CPU Fan 1)->(PWM splitter)->(Pump to *Red* first connector)->(Helix fans to next black connectors)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> Thank you chiming in. The 3500 is a round number. It seems to change slightly plus or minus 10rpm. But yes it is in that range. (At least that is what is being displayed.) It seems like it should be louder, but I can at least tell that its speed is not changing. CPU temp is around 27c at idle.
> 
> I thought the blue and green wires might be reversed as well, but I didn't want to tear anything apart without Swiftechs' ok. I'm going to take another close look at it though.
> 
> Edit: It looks like the wires are correctly positioned and making contact. I suspect there is a crack in the blue wire somewhere. I looked at the reported speeds in bios and it ranges from 3440-3490 or so. If it weren't under warranty I'd tear more into it, but I'd rather just get it replaced.
> 
> (AdamMT - thanks, yes I am using a PWM header. I verified the header works with PWM fans. It is just the pump that isn't responding properly.)


Sent you a PM. I'll personally take care of your RMA request when I get in tomorrow morning. We open at 8:00am PST, but I'm usually there about 15 minutes early. I look forward to talking with you in the morning and I'm sorry that you've had a problem with this kit.


----------



## CTM Audi

Anyone know of a mATX case that could fit this, with 6 3.5" HDDs, and a longer then normal disc drive (LG BR/HD-DVD combo)?


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sent you a PM. I'll personally take care of your RMA request when I get in tomorrow morning. We open at 8:00am PST, but I'm usually there about 15 minutes early. I look forward to talking with you in the morning and I'm sorry that you've had a problem with this kit.


Funny thing. The system was just sitting on for a few hours. And a moment ago I came in to check on it. It was doing some weird 0 rpm to 1700. Back and forth. So I adjusted the speeds up and down a bit .... And now it is steady at 3000 on high and roughly 1600-1700 or so on low. It is quieter as well. No idea what happened. I didn't change anything. I may still RMA it, simply because the behavior is bizarre. Will see how it is working tomorrow. (The 0 RPM reading kind of freaked me out.)


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> Funny thing. The system was just sitting on for a few hours. And a moment ago I came in to check on it. It was doing some weird 0 rpm to 1700. Back and forth. So I adjusted the speeds up and down a bit .... And now it is steady at 3000 on high and roughly 1600-1700 or so on low. It is quieter as well. No idea what happened. I didn't change anything. I may still RMA it, simply because the behavior is bizarre. Will see how it is working tomorrow. (The 0 RPM reading kind of freaked me out.)


Definitely sounds like poor contact of the blue PWM wire. Same mine was doing until I popped it out, and fixed it.


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> If you are using the ASrock Extreme6 I would connect the pump or the splitter to the "CPU Fan 1" which is number (7) on the Mobo diagram (4 pin PWM). Then go into the BIOS and set all the fans to "FULL ON". Start Windows and install SpeedFan. After it's installed you should be able to see (Sys, CPU and Aux) Try to decrease the CPU percentage to 0 and see if the pump and or the fans turn off.
> 
> It should go (CPU Fan 1)->(PWM splitter)->(Pump to *Red* first connector)->(Helix fans to next black connectors)


Thanks for the Tip. I did test with Speed Fan, but the pump would not respond. It kept spinning at 3400+rpm, which now, seems clearly too high, as the max it is running at now is 3000 and it is responsive to adjustment. This matches Martin's experience as well.


----------



## leon63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, later on Antec is releasing a window for the P280, should add a nice look yo your case.


Was hard pressed not to grab that case, pinch the panel and sell it as a brand new standard one. Anyone interested?








Might just get around to DIYing a panel with some acrylic that's lying around somewhere.

Adding the 680 to the loop with another rad is tempting, shame this case isn't rad-friendly; only got room for another 120x120 at the back.
what's a good place in Aus to get some rads and fittings?


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Definitely sounds like poor contact of the blue PWM wire. Same mine was doing until I popped it out, and fixed it.


You may be right. I did eventually pull out and check the wire, but it looked fine and was installed correctly. There may be a short somewhere else. Will be interesting to see how things are working tomorrow. The 3400rpm+ it was running at was strange, and the rpm bouncing between 0 and 1700 or so is disturbing.


----------



## RemagCP

So this might be a newbie question, but will there be any issues using an XSPC (EX280) in an expanded loop with the H220? It seems like I read somewhere that as long as the insides are made of the same thing there won't be any issues.

Also will adding to this loop put more stress on the little pump and cause it to go out faster?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leon63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, later on Antec is releasing a window for the P280, should add a nice look yo your case.
> 
> 
> 
> Was hard pressed not to grab that case, pinch the panel and sell it as a brand new standard one. Anyone interested?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might just get around to DIYing a panel with some acrylic that's lying around somewhere.
> 
> Adding the 680 to the loop with another rad is tempting, shame this case isn't rad-friendly; only got room for another 120x120 at the back.
> what's a good place in Aus to get some rads and fittings?
Click to expand...

Maybe a different case will help.
The Fractal Arc Midi R2 is a very choice. Supports 240 on top and 240/280 up front. With no modifications. 280 can fit on top, but that depends on mobo clearance.


----------



## Yolo

I am looking to add a gpu block and another 240mm radiator to my loop. Is 1 bottle of HydrX PM2 enough? Or will I need 2? And will I need to use a kill coil or PTnuke with the HydrX PM2? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Magnum26

Hang on a sec, if the H220 comes with HydrX PM2 already in it, why are people recommending distilled water and a coloured additive and not just replacing the HydrX PM2?









Does anyone have any sources of HydrX PM2 that ins't green in the uk? I can only find green from Speicaltech.







(I want blue).


----------



## xarot

Seems that switching from H100 with two 1850 GTs to H220 with Helix fans gained me +100 MHz overclock and -5c on the hottest core.

It's just that my 3960X really is a dog. 4.5 GHz at 1.39 V







Hottest core 85 degrees Celcius in a 10-hour Prime95 run. 4.6 is impossible as I would hit the throttling temp even with H220.


----------



## guinner16

Not sure what is going on, but my pump went from silent to really noisy overnight. It is almost like its running at full blast, but no settings have been changed. Any suggestions.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> Not sure what is going on, but my pump went from silent to really noisy overnight. It is almost like its running at full blast, but no settings have been changed. Any suggestions.


What is the reported pump speed yesterday vs today?
You using bios 1604? When was the last time you flashed it?


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> What is the reported pump speed yesterday vs today?
> You using bios 1604? When was the last time you flashed it?


You know what. I might have to check. I ran into a ton of problems with the newest nvidia drivers, and basically had to start over. I actually had to reinstall windows and reset the motherboard. It was the only way I could get anything to boot. I will have to see about updated the bios when I get home. I was so aggrevated and tired I didn't even think of that. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## leon63

Out of curiosity if one were to set and forget about the unit what sort of life expectancy should they expect until algae forms or it needs maintenance?

The only thing putting me off adding more to the loop is the maintenance I assume I should do every year or so after I break the seal in a non-sterile environment.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leon63*
> 
> Out of curiosity if one were to set and forget about the unit what sort of life expectancy should they expect until algae forms or it needs maintenance?
> 
> The only thing putting me off adding more to the loop is the maintenance I assume I should do every year or so after I break the seal in a non-sterile environment.


they said it shouldnt need maintenance if unopened for the duration of the warranty (3 years). If it gurgles and bothers you, you might need to do that in 2.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> So this might be a newbie question, but will there be any issues using an XSPC (EX280) in an expanded loop with the H220? It seems like I read somewhere that as long as the insides are made of the same thing there won't be any issues.
> 
> Also will adding to this loop put more stress on the little pump and cause it to go out faster?
> 
> Thanks in advance


These pumps are able to handle extra components added to the loop. Your EX280 radiator certainly won't be a problem.


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sent you a PM. I'll personally take care of your RMA request when I get in tomorrow morning. We open at 8:00am PST, but I'm usually there about 15 minutes early. I look forward to talking with you in the morning and I'm sorry that you've had a problem with this kit.


I just wanted to give a positive shout out to BramSLI1 and Swiftech's customer service. I am impressed and will be using Swiftech parts whenever I can in the future. BramSLI1's follow up was outstanding. Thankfully everything seems to be working for me now, but the easy access to support is outstanding.

Also, I'll try to post a couple pictures later today. I'm running a Corsair 500r, Asrock z77 Extreme6, i7-3770k, Samsung memory, Sapphire 7970, SeaSonic X750, and of course a Swiftech H220.


----------



## gsk3rd

Users with the Corsair C70 case and Sabertooth Z77 board will not be able to run push pull in the case. Hits the thermal armor and ram clips. Found out the hard way last night. Back to just a push set up.

@swiftech, Do we have any update on the tubing colors? Also I saw the question asked but haven't found an answer, How many bottles of PM2 is needed to refill the loop?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> Users with the Corsair C70 case and Sabertooth Z77 board will not be able to run push pull in the case. Hits the thermal armor and ram clips. Found out the hard way last night. Back to just a push set up.
> 
> @swiftech, Do we have any update on the tubing colors? Also I saw the question asked but haven't found an answer, How many bottles of PM2 is needed to refill the loop?


One is plenty for just the H220, but you may need a second one depending on how many blocks and rads you add. Just get 2 and call it good.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Seems that switching from H100 with two 1850 GTs to H220 with Helix fans gained me +100 MHz overclock and -5c on the hottest core.
> 
> It's just that my 3960X really is a dog. 4.5 GHz at 1.39 V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hottest core 85 degrees Celcius in a 10-hour Prime95 run. 4.6 is impossible as I would hit the throttling temp even with H220.


I know the feeling of having a poor processor. My 2600k maxes 4.4 GHz at 1.4 V. Granted, it's smaller size keeps my temperature way lower. I max at like 71 in a 12 hour prime95 run. It just refuses to go higher, and I'm not willing to go way over 1.4V just to get to 4.6.

If I can ever find a cheap 570 block I'll buy another rad and add my it into my h220, but I'm just not willing to spend 90 bucks on a block for a GPU that is only worth 175 bucks. I'll probably just wait for next gen cards to come out and buy a block for whichever team ends up having the better card.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> I know the feeling of having a poor processor. My 2600k maxes 4.4 GHz at 1.4 V. Granted, it's smaller size keeps my temperature way lower. I max at like 71 in a 12 hour prime95 run. It just refuses to go higher, and I'm not willing to go way over 1.4V just to get to 4.6.
> 
> If I can ever find a cheap 570 block I'll buy another rad and add my it into my h220, but I'm just not willing to spend 90 bucks on a block for a GPU that is only worth 175 bucks. I'll probably just wait for next gen cards to come out and buy a block for whichever team ends up having the better card.


Lol must be your motherboard, my 2600k is happily sitting at 4.9Ghz with stock voltage and even on air only maxes out at 65.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> @swiftech, Do we have any update on the tubing colors? Also I saw the question asked but haven't found an answer, How many bottles of PM2 is needed to refill the loop?


I'll try to get answer on that shortly. So far the color that will be available first will be white.


----------



## F4lkon

What about temps after OC ?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Lol must be your motherboard, my 2600k is happily sitting at 4.9Ghz with stock voltage and even on air only maxes out at 65.


thought i had a good 2600k

5.1ghz at 1.4v

what actual voltage do you see in cpuz under load?


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Lol must be your motherboard, my 2600k is happily sitting at 4.9Ghz with stock voltage and even on air only maxes out at 65.


I call bs on stock voltage


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> I know the feeling of having a poor processor. My 2600k maxes 4.4 GHz at 1.4 V. Granted, it's smaller size keeps my temperature way lower. I max at like 71 in a 12 hour prime95 run. It just refuses to go higher, and I'm not willing to go way over 1.4V just to get to 4.6.
> 
> If I can ever find a cheap 570 block I'll buy another rad and add my it into my h220, but I'm just not willing to spend 90 bucks on a block for a GPU that is only worth 175 bucks. I'll probably just wait for next gen cards to come out and buy a block for whichever team ends up having the better card.


What do you mean when you say it won't go higher? You mean it won't boot into Windows, or it won't run Prime95 for 10 hours?

I used to insist on long P95 runs before I deemed a setup stable, but I'm over that. If I can run the AIDA64 stress test for 10+ minutes at good temps and If the system is stable in my normal operation then AFAIC it's stable. I mean hell, when you buy a new car you don't redline the tach for 10 hours straight before you consider it driveable, do you?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> I call bs on stock voltage


Me too.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thought i had a good 2600k
> 
> 5.1ghz at 1.4v
> 
> what actual voltage do you see in cpuz under load?


Very nice!


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Very nice!


thanks









and i was too polite to say BS on stock voltage thats why i asked about cpuz


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> What do you mean when you say it won't go higher? You mean it won't boot into Windows, or it won't run Prime95 for 10 hours?
> 
> I used to insist on long P95 runs before I deemed a setup stable, but I'm over that. If I can run the AIDA64 stress test for 10+ minutes at good temps and If the system is stable in my normal operation then AFAIC it's stable. I mean hell, when you buy a new car you don't redline the tach for 10 hours straight before you consider it driveable, do you?


I mean it won't boot at 4.5, no matter what settings I use. I've had a MSI z68 board before my current one, and it was the same thing. I just drew the super unlucky lottery with my processor. I'm really not that upset over it, 4.4 on a 2600k is good for 99% of my needs. I got it so I could stream 720p video's while playing games, and I have yet to encounter a game that I couldn't stream and play with acceptable framerates and quality on both. That's also the reason I got the h220, so it could quiet my system down while the GPU and CPU are both being pushed.

Also, lol at Magnum. Every processor is made differently. Why do you think guys will buy 10 processors and bin them to find the best one? If you want to trade 2600k's because you think it's the same I'm fine with that.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I used to insist on long P95 runs before I deemed a setup stable, but I'm over that. If I can run the AIDA64 stress test for 10+ minutes at good temps and If the system is stable in my normal operation then AFAIC it's stable. I mean hell, when you buy a new car you don't redline the tach for 10 hours straight before you consider it driveable, do you?


I approve of this analogy


----------



## ez12a

lol people that fold or do distributed computing 24/7 would disagree. It has to be stable. I've had p95 crash 12 hours in. That said, i'm not saying everyone has to do it. To each his own. Just dont blame anyone or any company for corrupt data if it occurs.

but anyways, dont forget to post pics and fill the form to join the club!


----------



## Scorpion667

Are we comparing overclocks on H220 thread now?

Mine's over 9000 son.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> lol people that fold or do distributed computing 24/7 would disagree. It has to be stable. I've had p95 crash 12 hours in. That said, i'm not saying everyone has to do it. To each his own. Just dont blame anyone or any company for corrupt data if it occurs.
> 
> but anyways, dont forget to post pics and fill the form to join the club!


I've always done 24-48hrs of prime and 15 rounds of IBT.

Wanting to see H220 results with a pair of OCed 7970s and an i5-3570k with a couple of extra radiators.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I've always done 24-48hrs of prime and 15 rounds of IBT.
> 
> Wanting to see H220 results with a pair of OCed 7970s and an i5-3570k with a couple of extra radiators.


I may have some results for you in a week or so if everything gets delivered as expected. I am adding on an extra 240 and a 140 radiator to cool a 5.0Ghz 2600k and two overclocked Sapphire 7970's using Swiftech MCW82-7900 universal blocks. Everything I have read (and the demo system) says the pump should handle this without any issues. We will find out!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I may have some results for you in a week or so if everything gets delivered as expected. I am adding on an extra 240 and a 140 radiator to cool a 5.0Ghz 2600k and two overclocked Sapphire 7970's using Swiftech MCW82-7900 universal blocks. Everything I have read (and the demo system) says the pump should handle this without any issues. We will find out!


Good to here







keep us posted.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> lol people that fold or do distributed computing 24/7 would disagree. It has to be stable. I've had p95 crash 12 hours in. That said, i'm not saying everyone has to do it. To each his own. Just dont blame anyone or any company for corrupt data if it occurs.
> 
> but anyways, dont forget to post pics and fill the form to join the club!


I'm a 3D artist (animation, modeling, rendering) by trade so my machines get a heavy workout by most measures. It's not that unusual that my machine will run overnight rendering animations with full global illumination, ambient occlusion, multipasses, etc. It's quite taxing, but I've found that it's still much less taxing than Prime95. So basically, if it's stable for my work I couldn't care less if it can run Prime95 for a week on end.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I'm a 3D artist (animation, modeling, rendering) by trade so my machines get a heavy workout by most measures. It's not that unusual that my machine will run overnight rendering animations with full global illumination, ambient occlusion, multipasses, etc. It's quite taxing, but I've found that it's still much less taxing than Prime95. So basically, if it's stable for my work I couldn't care less if it can run Prime95 for a week on end.


This is how I see it now.








Before I sold my 2600k, I did a 12 hour run of P95 @ 5ghz. Voltage was 1.496. The Silver Arrow kept the highest temp at 80c. I won't be doing any 12hr runs with my 3930k!


----------



## Pure2sin

Tell me if this makes sense:

I had already bought the Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller before I bought the H220 and was thinking about ways to use it.

I connect the pump on the H220 to the splitter and the PWM Helix fans on the splitter as normal. Then connect the PWM signal cable from the Rheosmart to the splitter and the 3pin case fans to the Rheosmart controller.

I should be able to have the best of both worlds. The pump and the helix fans would be connected to the splitter as normal and the fan controller would be getting a PWM signal from the CPU-Fan connector enabling me to control the fans by using the BIOS along with the pump and helix fans or by using the manual control knobs.

So in essence it would enable me to connect 3pin fans to the H220 splitter (although not directly) without having them run full speed all the time and allow me to manually control them if I choose to do so.


----------



## hotwheels1997

Anybody having luck installing the H220 in a HAF 912 case? I have the HAF 912 Advanced and really want this cooling unit.


----------



## frozenclay

We have the same issue. I have the haf xm instead.


----------



## hotwheels1997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozenclay*
> 
> We have the same issue. I have the haf xm instead.


You'll probably be able to install it without a problem.I think i found sort of a fix for installing it in my case too.Look:

Just to not use the holes intended for it but some of the holes in the grill.I won't be able to screw all the screws but i think it'll be enough.What do you think?


----------



## Fleat

I don't think it will strip the threads and drop or anything, but you might get some noticeable vibration with it mounted that way.

Edit: Looking at it again, I still wouldn't completely trust it. You may want to use some zip ties to hold it up as well just to be sure.


----------



## AdamMT

Drill a couple extra holes -- no big deal. At minimum you could get two more screws just by snipping out a little of the octagonal mesh.


----------



## xarot

So did my pump just go boom....









I had left P95 running for a few hours, and suddendly the computer had just shut itself down. Tried again and almost immediate shutdown. Now the rad and tubes are cool but block is burning hot. Have to investigate more if the computer cools down and boots again but seems that the pump died. That or my 3960X.


----------



## SDBolts619

Did you load into BIOS and check both the CPU temps and fan speed reading?


----------



## mikuli040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Seems to be some quality control problems at the Chinese factory. I had the same thing and so did another poster. My replacement unit arrives today. Fingers crossed.
> 
> This time -- and my advice to anyone getting a new unit -- I will test run the H220 *before* I remove my air cooler and mount the rad/block.


Hi

I have dead pump too, some quality control problems at the Chinese factory in deed.Also, one fan was broken. The new package is already coming now.


----------



## Scorpion667

Please remove. I had made a mistake.
I had this topic confused for one made by someone using Thermaltake Water 2.0 with a defective pump here http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1371448

Apologies to the Swiftech team, you guys have an outstanding track record and I didn't mean to take away from that, I just thought I was posting in another topic!


----------



## AdamMT

Hopefully these pump failures have something in common that Swiftech will be able to remedy in the near future.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> So did my pump just go boom....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had left P95 running for a few hours, and suddendly the computer had just shut itself down. Tried again and almost immediate shutdown. Now the rad and tubes are cool but block is burning hot. Have to investigate more if the computer cools down and boots again but seems that the pump died. That or my 3960X.


Ok. Now I'm really getting worried. I haven't even tested mine yet, and I'm not sure I want to.








I can't afford to replace my 3930k! The pump issues seem to be running a little rampant!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Hopefully these pump failures have something in common that Swiftech will be able to remedy in the near future.


Rest assured, we're on top of it.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Ok. Now I'm really getting worried. I haven't even tested mine yet, and I'm not sure I want to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't afford to replace my 3930k! The pump issues seem to be running a little rampant!


The mobo/cpu should shut down before it can melt down. But I'm not buying you a new one if it doesn't.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> Can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should join here..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> NO CLUB FOR YOU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow, How cruel! you have a HEARTLESS!
Click to expand...

WALSRU, My suggest, You can create own thread: Apogee II Owners Club..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> This is the reason I'm not looking forward to installing on my ASRock Z77e-Itx. Probably going to have to turn it sideways.
> This*. From what I understand the Apogee II is very over-engineered (for many users) and a stronger pump. It costs $140 to buy separately. I still bought it because I like the looks better.*


That!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> So did my pump just go boom....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had left P95 running for a few hours, and suddendly the computer had just shut itself down. Tried again and almost immediate shutdown. Now the rad and tubes are cool but block is burning hot. Have to investigate more if the computer cools down and boots again but seems that the pump died. That or my 3960X.


Let us know how you make out.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Let us know how you make out.


I'm not sure what it is at this point either. From the PM he sent me it sounds like his pump is working, but maybe not very well. I'm awaiting some further information from him so that I can try and trouble shoot it.


----------



## hotwheels1997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I don't think it will strip the threads and drop or anything, but you might get some noticeable vibration with it mounted that way.
> 
> Edit: Looking at it again, I still wouldn't completely trust it. You may want to use some zip ties to hold it up as well just to be sure.


But all in all,do you think i'll be able to mount it like that? I should have enough clearance if I mount it like that and it'll all work perfectly.If it's not holding tight,i can always make some extra holes with the drilling machine.


----------



## hotwheels1997

@BramSLI1,do you think it will be possible to install the H220 in my HAF 912 Advanced if i install it like that:

Meaning i'll install the radiator more toward the other side of the case,rather than in the holes that are intended for 2x120mm.My motherboard heatsink is small(Extreme4) ,but my 8pin is right on the top of the motherboard.That's why i'm asking,because i won't be able to install it in the pre-made holes for 2x120mm because of the 8pin and not enough clearance.Would this setup work?


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> WALSRU, My suggest, You can create own thread: Apogee II Owners Club..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That!


It would be pretty empty, I'm going to just troll here


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotwheels1997*
> 
> But all in all,do you think i'll be able to mount it like that? I should have enough clearance if I mount it like that and it'll all work perfectly.If it's not holding tight,i can always make some extra holes with the drilling machine.


Bryan from Swiftech is definitely better person to answer that question. I will take another look at this if it isn't answered tonight after I install my H220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotwheels1997*
> 
> @BramSLI1,do you think it will be possible to install the H220 in my HAF 912 Advanced if i install it like that:
> 
> Meaning i'll install the radiator more toward the other side of the case,rather than in the holes that are intended for 2x120mm.My motherboard heatsink is small(Extreme4) ,but my 8pin is right on the top of the motherboard.That's why i'm asking,because i won't be able to install it in the pre-made holes for 2x120mm because of the 8pin and not enough clearance.Would this setup work?


That should work. It will be a little more restrictive of your airflow than if you were to mount it using the holes that were meant for a radiator, but it shouldn't hinder the performance noticeably.


----------



## Tom Thumb

The screw arrived today Bryan. Thanks. Now I have to wait untill Monday for my white tubing to arrive.








I'll get this thing running yet.


----------



## hotwheels1997

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That should work. It will be a little more restrictive of your airflow than if you were to mount it using the holes that were meant for a radiator, but it shouldn't hinder the performance noticeably.


Is it possible for you to try this setup with the HAF 912? If you have the case available over at Swiftech because a relative will buy me this cooler from the USA and then bring it to me in Bulgaria and i really don't want to waste money on something that i won't be able to install in my case.I got the idea from this video : 



Another question: Is there warranty coverage in Europe?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotwheels1997*
> 
> Is it possible for you to try this setup with the HAF 912? If you have the case available over at Swiftech because a relative will buy me this cooler from the USA and then bring it to me in Bulgaria and i really don't want to waste money on something that i won't be able to install in my case.I got the idea from this video :
> 
> 
> 
> Another question: Is there warranty coverage in Europe?


We don't have that case here or we would have tested it already. I'll let you know if we do get it in though.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> You know what. I might have to check. I ran into a ton of problems with the newest nvidia drivers, and basically had to start over. I actually had to reinstall windows and reset the motherboard. It was the only way I could get anything to boot. I will have to see about updated the bios when I get home. I was so aggrevated and tired I didn't even think of that. Thanks for the advice.


So how did you make out with the pump noise?


----------



## CTM Audi

My RMA kit got here. The rad on that one is flawless as well.

One thing Ive now noticed with the Helix fans, is that when they are in a vertical position, they rub. When horizontal or flat, they are ok, but when standing up or at any other angle, you can hear something grinding. Ive noticed this on both of the ones with my original kit, and again on both from the RMA kit. Though, one from the RMA kit isnt as bad.

Anyway, about to test my old one to the RMA one to see if there is any variance between samples, or if my pump may have hindered my last results. Then Im going to expand on it.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> My RMA kit got here. The rad on that one is flawless as well.
> 
> One thing Ive now noticed with the Helix fans, is that when they are in a vertical position, they rub. When horizontal or flat, they are ok, but when standing up or at any other angle, you can hear something grinding. Ive noticed this on both of the ones with my original kit, and again on both from the RMA kit. Though, one from the RMA kit isnt as bad.
> 
> Anyway, about to test my old one to the RMA one to see if there is any variance between samples, or if my pump may have hindered my last results. Then Im going to expand on it.


Awaiting your results. Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> It would be pretty empty, I'm going to just troll here


I'd be there







. I just bought back my previous Apogee Drive II, so now I have both.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotwheels1997*
> 
> Another question: Is there warranty coverage in Europe?


There is warranty coverage in Europe through our master distributor there, Bacata.


----------



## CTM Audi

I cant tell a difference between the old one and the RMA one. I did notice the pump is much quieter when not attached to the motherboard. I tested the new one first laying outside the case, and it was quiet up to 3k RPM, while the old one was attached, and making more noise at 1500RPM. Swapped them, and its the same thing. The one attached makes a bit of a high pitch rattle tone that is noticeable with the side panel off, while with the one not attached you can only hear it with it to your ear.

When tightening the screws, I do two rotations of top right, two for bottom left, two for top left, two for bottom right until all are tight and no longer screw in. TIM spread is pretty much perfect every time.

EDIT: There is no cooling difference between them. Going to get started on draining and expanding.


----------



## frozenclay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotwheels1997*
> 
> You'll probably be able to install it without a problem.I think i found sort of a fix for installing it in my case too.Look:
> 
> Just to not use the holes intended for it but some of the holes in the grill.I won't be able to screw all the screws but i think it'll be enough.What do you think?


hi. Can you show me the insides please?


----------



## tbone8ty

When will these be available at newegg?

Any word on a 140/280mm model?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> When will these be available at newegg?
> 
> Any word on a 140/280mm model?


Newegg will have them around the first of the month. The other models will follow after the release of the H320.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozenclay*
> 
> We have the same issue. I have the haf xm instead.


While I don't have an H220 yet, but I've done some measuring in my HAF XM, it looks like the only way to do it is to place the Rad inside with the reservoir pointed down, with the fans on top where the stock 200mm fan is located. Due to the way the top of the case is framed I don't see a way you mount the rad with the reservoir facing up, but it will absolutely fit.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Are there still any possible plans for a 120 unit or a pump alone in the future(would make my job moding this very air centric case and not water cooling friendly case of mines a bit easier)

on an unrelated subject: Grats on the profits and good luck with the new factory when its up


----------



## CTM Audi

After 3+ hours of hell breaking my back, shaking my PC like a mad man, its still got air in it. Took over 2 hours to get the pump to start pushing the water even though the tubes before and after it were full, and the whole kit had about 18oz of fluid in it. Finally I got it somewhat working, but its terribly loud trying to get the air out of it.

Ive done dozens of custom loops before, and never had any trouble like this. Not something Id ever want to do again.


----------



## farlopa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Newegg will have them around the first of the month. The other models will follow after the release of the H320.


BramSLI1.
What is the release date for the H320? in early April?


----------



## CTM Audi

Im off to bed, but quick update. The expansion (adding MCW-80 on GTX-670, and XSPC EX240) CPU load temps are around 5C cooler (didnt monitor ambient and have panels off the case) and the 670 at 1200 core got to 37C running Heaven maxed out 2560x1440.


----------



## Magnum26

For all those calling BS on my CPU here's my proof. http://valid.canardpc.com/2741664

Back on topic still no stock appearing over here in the UK.


----------



## xarot

Hi, maybe it's best to report here since many people seem to have been wondering what happened.

I troubleshooted this a bit with BramSLI1 and appreciate his kind help on this. Rare to see this kind of private customer service these days.







I always like to troubleshoot the best I can myself before taking any final conclusions, I've worked in RMA dept myself for nearly 4 years in the past.









Now I have tried to connect the pump directly into the MB and also through the bundled panel with and without the cpu fan header connection but the situation seems to be always the same: the pump works from a cold start for a while and then it goes to 0 rpm, goes back on for a while and then nothing, my computer shuts down due to thermal shutdown. I believe I have now ruled out the fan headers, and I don't see much left to do. I will do an RMA through my retailer in Finland, that's just how things work around here, unless they tell me otherwise.

Here's a screenshot, taken just before a shutdown when I had the pump directly connected to MB. Check CPUFANIN.



And hey, my CPU is still alive. Hopefully not degraded...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> After 3+ hours of hell breaking my back, shaking my PC like a mad man, its still got air in it. Took over 2 hours to get the pump to start pushing the water even though the tubes before and after it were full, and the whole kit had about 18oz of fluid in it. Finally I got it somewhat working, but its terribly loud trying to get the air out of it.
> 
> Ive done dozens of custom loops before, and never had any trouble like this. Not something Id ever want to do again.


you know I wonder if the "vacuum filling" process helps with this.

Bryan, how exactly is this done in the factory? could we just attach a hand pump (like those found for brake bleeding) to the end of the loop or tube after the pump and apply a vacuum?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> After 3+ hours of hell breaking my back, shaking my PC like a mad man, its still got air in it. Took over 2 hours to get the pump to start pushing the water even though the tubes before and after it were full, and the whole kit had about 18oz of fluid in it. Finally I got it somewhat working, but its terribly loud trying to get the air out of it.
> 
> Ive done dozens of custom loops before, and never had any trouble like this. Not something Id ever want to do again.


You know ... it's a lot easier if you do the fill *before* you mount the system in your case!


----------



## Scorpion667

Would this Tim-Mate 2 stuff be better than MX2? Looking to maximize cooling for some upcoming stress testing (and I have a strained shoulder so I'm trying to avoid lifting my pc too many times)


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Would this Tim-Mate 2 stuff be better than MX2? Looking to maximize cooling for some upcoming stress testing (and I have a strained shoulder so I'm trying to avoid lifting my pc too many times)


IMHO, I like this Tim Mate 2 better. I have been a MX-4 fan for a very long time and this product has me sold. Its more "spreadable" than MX but not runny.

I would say use it. Be aware that I saw a 2c drop after ~ 4hrs of heat from the proc. It has a small cure time.


----------



## Phelan

Anybody taken the swivel barbs off the H220 yet? I don't have any more coolant yet so I don't want to do it right now, but it looks like the arms on the Apogee Drive 2 will bolt in place to replace them for the few of us that have both.



They are extremely similar of course










BTW I have Apogee Drive 2 hardware on my H220, for those that don't know. I reused the plastic clips instead of the metal ones because they seemed the easier option at the time.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi, maybe it's best to report here since many people seem to have been wondering what happened.
> 
> I troubleshooted this a bit with BramSLI1 and appreciate his kind help on this. Rare to see this kind of private customer service these days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always like to troubleshoot the best I can myself before taking any final conclusions, I've worked in RMA dept myself for nearly 4 years in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have tried to connect the pump directly into the MB and also through the bundled panel with and without the cpu fan header connection but the situation seems to be always the same: the pump works from a cold start for a while and then it goes to 0 rpm, goes back on for a while and then nothing, my computer shuts down due to thermal shutdown. I believe I have now ruled out the fan headers, and I don't see much left to do. I will do an RMA through my retailer in Finland, that's just how things work around here, unless they tell me otherwise.


Hi There, please directly contact [email protected] , (please cc to [email protected] so we can stay in the loop) - bacata in France is our support center for Europe, and they are dedicated to provide European customers the same superior quality support as we are in the US


----------



## xarot

Thanks for the advice Gabe.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> You know ... it's a lot easier if you do the fill *before* you mount the system in your case!


Maybe a small loop if you dont care how long the tubing is. With GPU and another rad added, no way that was going to happen with short tubing lengths.

Im wondering if the MCW-80 caused it to be hard to bleed. Since its such a restrictive block, and its right after the pump/block. I can feel the out tube from the pump vibrate, but feel nothing from the out tube of the MCW-80.

Some pics, still working on it though.

GTX-670


Lots of flakes in the liquid after draining. Used a paper towel to filter it.


Disassembled


Tubed up



Top


Cut for filling


Tube for filling, with a funnel


From the front bays


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> IMHO, I like this Tim Mate 2 better. I have been a MX-4 fan for a very long time and this product has me sold. Its more "spreadable" than MX but not runny.
> 
> I would say use it. Be aware that I saw a 2c drop after ~ 4hrs of heat from the proc. It has a small cure time.


Thanks for the reply, I will try it out. Also been using Mx2 and MX4 for ages.
+1


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Maybe a small loop if you dont care how long the tubing is. With GPU and another rad added, no way that was going to happen with short tubing lengths.
> 
> Im wondering if the MCW-80 caused it to be hard to bleed. Since its such a restrictive block, and its right after the pump/block. I can feel the out tube from the pump vibrate, but feel nothing from the out tube of the MCW-80.
> 
> Some pics, still working on it though.
> 
> GTX-670
> 
> Tubed up


The reason why you had SO MUCH difficulty filling and bleeding the system is very simple: you are going from radiator to OUTLET of the waterblock instead of INLET :-(

So you had to fill everything else before the pump could actually be able to start priming. Watch our video again here:





 starting at 2mn20.

Bryan clearly explains what and what NOT to do.

Had you connected the line from the radiator to the inlet of the pump as we recommend, and you would have been able to use the pump to fill-up the loop. Don't feel too bad though it happens. It works, but its an absolute pain to bleed that way. Let it be a lesson for readers: always link up the rad directly to the CPU block inlet to facilitate fill and bleed!

COMMENTS REMOVED - SEE BELOW


----------



## CTM Audi

All done,


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The reason why you had SO MUCH difficulty filling and bleeding the system is very simple: you are going from radiator to OUTLET of the waterblock instead of INLET :-(
> 
> So you had to fill everything else before the pump could actually be able to start priming. Watch our video again here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> starting at 2mn20.
> 
> Bryan clearly explains what and what NOT to do.
> 
> Had you connected the line from the radiator to the inlet of the pump as we recommend, and you would have been able to use the pump to fill-up the loop. Don't feel too bad though it happens. It works, but its an absolute pain to bleed that way. Let it be a lesson for readers: always link up the rad directly to the CPU block inlet to facilitate fill and bleed!


Actually, it is going to the inlet. I flipped the pump and the top cover, and its definitely going to the in port.
You can see the wire from the pump is coming out of the bottom now, putting the IN on the right hand side.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Actually, it is going to the inlet. I flipped the pump and the top cover, and its definitely going to the in port.
> You can see the wire from the pump is coming out of the bottom now, putting the IN on the right hand side.


I see, trying to trick me heh ?









Comments removed then 

So if I understand well, you had no issue filling-up the system turning the pump on and off to push the coolant thru the loop, but then you had difficulties actually bleeding from whatever air was inside, right ?


----------



## RemagCP

Hey, if you don't mind, would you care to share some VRM temps? I wanted to do the same thing with a MSI TF3 7950 and wondered if that stock black heat spreader plate would be enough to keep them cool


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I see, trying to trick me heh ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comments removed then
> 
> So if I understand well, you had no issue filling-up the system turning the pump on and off to push the coolant thru the loop, but then you had difficulties actually bleeding from whatever air was inside, right ?


The problem I was having, is the pump was spinning, and water was in the pump and tubes before and after it. But the giant air bubbles would get stuck in those tubes and not move.

I later found laying it down somewhat helped. And flipping the case upside down and all around fallowing the tubing worked, but took forever (keeping the next path of tubing in a vertical position so the air would just "rise" up to the res). I started around midnight tubing up the whole kit, and around 1:30 started filling. By 5AM, I was just really tired and annoyed.

Im pretty sure its the MCW-80. As I sit here, there is a little bubble bouncing around right before the inlet of the MCW-80. The pump is trying to push it through, but the flow coming out of the MCW-80 is much slower. So I have to keep flicking the tube where the bubble is to get it to go through. Plus the fact air likes to rise, and its going downward isnt helping. Once it is through the MCW-80, it has no trouble going down to the front rad, then up to the top one.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Hey, if you don't mind, would you care to share some VRM temps? I wanted to do the same thing with a MSI TF3 7950 and wondered if that stock black heat spreader plate would be enough to keep them cool


I would, but the GTX-670 doesnt have temp sensors for it. I got the Akust magnetic fan holder, and placed a AP122 directed airflow fan right below the card so its still getting air. The heatsink over the VRM part gets a little warm to touch, but that just means its doing its job. And its not so hot that it burns, so Im sure they are fine.


----------



## Klubhead

What will the differences between the 220 and 320 be?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## eXXon

Hey all, not a big fan of AIO kits but have been hearing so many good things about the H220, I just got one from the local store.

CNPS12X has been good to me but I miss seeing my board. Any tips before/after I install the H220?

Haven't seen many SB-E members using it......

Newbie here so any help would be appreciated the OCN way


----------



## CTM Audi

As I thought, expanding it doesnt really help with load temps. Its just helps by allowing you to cool more, and make it take longer to get to your max temp. Hit 64C @ 21C ambient, vs 66C @ 21C ambient before expanding.
Going to run the pump a little faster and see if it helps at all. At the current PWM setting it idles ~1500RPM, and got up to ~1950RPM under load.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> The problem I was having, is the pump was spinning, and water was in the pump and tubes before and after it. But the giant air bubbles would get stuck in those tubes and not move.
> 
> I later found laying it down somewhat helped. And flipping the case upside down and all around fallowing the tubing worked, but took forever (keeping the next path of tubing in a vertical position so the air would just "rise" up to the res). I started around midnight tubing up the whole kit, and around 1:30 started filling. By 5AM, I was just really tired and annoyed.
> 
> Im pretty sure its the MCW-80. As I sit here, there is a little bubble bouncing around right before the inlet of the MCW-80. The pump is trying to push it through, but the flow coming out of the MCW-80 is much slower. So I have to keep flicking the tube where the bubble is to get it to go through. Plus the fact air likes to rise, and its going downward isnt helping. Once it is through the MCW-80, it has no trouble going down to the front rad, then up to the top one.


Will discuss this with the guys and let you know..


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> What will the differences between the 220 and 320 be?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


For CPU temps, not much. See my results directly above after adding another 240mm rad. It'll give you more headroom for adding other things though.

A 240mm rad is really more then just a CPU needs. The bottleneck will be the rate at which the CPU's die transfers heat to the IHS, and from the IHS to the water block.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> For CPU temps, not much. See my results directly above after adding another 240mm rad. It'll give you more headroom for adding other things though.
> 
> A 240mm rad is really more then just a CPU needs. The bottleneck will be the rate at which the CPU's die transfers heat to the IHS, and from the IHS to the water block.


The biggest difference is fan speed. More rad allows you to run slower fans and get the same performance, quieting your system down. At a certain point though, the block is only transferring a certain amount of heat to the water of your loop. If that water is almost at room temperature after going through the rad, adding more rads will have almost no effect.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> The biggest difference is fan speed. More rad allows you to run slower fans and get the same performance, quieting your system down. At a certain point though, the block is only transferring a certain amount of heat to the water of your loop. If that water is almost at room temperature after going through the rad, adding more rads will have almost no effect.


This is true too, but I believe the stock H220 rad is already past that point. Running only two NF-F12s on the kit stock at 1100RPM, then four of them at 1100RPM on two rads only took 2C off.

Tested higher pump speed at 2500RPM, didnt help the temps any.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> This is true too, but I believe the stock H220 rad is already past that point. Running only two NF-F12s on the kit stock at 1100RPM, then four of them at 1100RPM on two rads only took 2C off.
> 
> Tested higher pump speed at 2500RPM, didnt help the temps any.


Great info! Thanks.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Im pretty sure its the MCW-80. As I sit here, there is a little bubble bouncing around right before the inlet of the MCW-80. The pump is trying to push it through, but the flow coming out of the MCW-80 is much slower. So I have to keep flicking the tube where the bubble is to get it to go through. Plus the fact air likes to rise, and its going downward isnt helping. Once it is through the MCW-80, it has no trouble going down to the front rad, then up to the top one.


BINGO!

The older MCW-80 is VERY restrictive (almost 6-7X more than the 82)









You are probably lucky to be pushing .5GPM with that block as a guess, but I'm not sure what the H220 pump curve is producing. 4lpm is pretty close to 1gpm.

Hearing H220 pump head should be similar (per RPM) as the 35x at the same rpm. Gussing that is 1-2m max which would put you under the 2LPM or less than .5GPM mark which is bleeding trouble flow rates. Performance should still be good, but I'm not surprised you had bleeding problems. The older 80 is like stinging a dozen normal gpu blocks in there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farlopa*
> 
> BramSLI1.
> What is the release date for the H320? in early April?


With us moving into the new production facility, I really can't say when those will be released. I'll keep you posted though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you know I wonder if the "vacuum filling" process helps with this.
> 
> Bryan, how exactly is this done in the factory? could we just attach a hand pump (like those found for brake bleeding) to the end of the loop or tube after the pump and apply a vacuum?


No, you really can't do it that way because these radiators have a specific pressure tolerance. I can't remember what it is off of the top of my head right now, but I'll find out when I get in on Monday. If you exceed that tolerance then you risk damaging the radiator.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi, maybe it's best to report here since many people seem to have been wondering what happened.
> 
> I troubleshooted this a bit with BramSLI1 and appreciate his kind help on this. Rare to see this kind of private customer service these days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always like to troubleshoot the best I can myself before taking any final conclusions, I've worked in RMA dept myself for nearly 4 years in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have tried to connect the pump directly into the MB and also through the bundled panel with and without the cpu fan header connection but the situation seems to be always the same: the pump works from a cold start for a while and then it goes to 0 rpm, goes back on for a while and then nothing, my computer shuts down due to thermal shutdown. I believe I have now ruled out the fan headers, and I don't see much left to do. I will do an RMA through my retailer in Finland, that's just how things work around here, unless they tell me otherwise.
> 
> Here's a screenshot, taken just before a shutdown when I had the pump directly connected to MB. Check CPUFANIN.
> 
> 
> 
> And hey, my CPU is still alive. Hopefully not degraded...


How about inadequate power supply?


----------



## MadGoat

I think if the PSU couldnt handle 6w of 12v power, there would be much larger concerns here...


----------



## RemagCP

So I read on FrozenCPU and it says the H220 is 29mm thick, is this true even with the fans?


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> BINGO!
> 
> The older MCW-80 is VERY restrictive (almost 6-7X more than the 82)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably lucky to be pushing .5GPM with that block as a guess, but I'm not sure what the H220 pump curve is producing. 4lpm is pretty close to 1gpm.
> 
> Hearing H220 pump head should be similar (per RPM) as the 35x at the same rpm. Gussing that is 1-2m max which would put you under the 2LPM or less than .5GPM mark which is bleeding trouble flow rates. Performance should still be good, but I'm not surprised you had bleeding problems. The older 80 is like stinging a dozen normal gpu blocks in there.


I get no temp difference between pump at 20% 1500RPM and max speed. I have the PWM set to 20% @ 40C on the CPU fan header, so during game use, it probably gets to 30-35% at most.

See any issues with running it daily like that, or should I look in to getting the MCW-82 housing? Id really rather not have to disassemble and refill again. Now that the bleeding is done, if there isn't any negative point to a lower flow rate, then Ill keep it as is.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I get no temp difference between pump at 20% 1500RPM and max speed. I have the PWM set to 20% @ 40C on the CPU fan header, so during game use, it probably gets to 30-35% at most.
> 
> See any issues with running it daily like that, or should I look in to getting the MCW-82 housing? Id really rather not have to disassemble and refill again. Now that the bleeding is done, if there isn't any negative point to a lower flow rate, then Ill keep it as is.


No, should work well as long as you got it bled out. MCW80s dense micro pins is probably a very good low flow rate performer as most high restriction blocks are (your results seem to confirm that too). Just makes bleeding difficult is all. As long as you got the big pockets removed and the pump is quiet, I'd call it good..


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I get no temp difference between pump at 20% 1500RPM and max speed. I have the PWM set to 20% @ 40C on the CPU fan header, so during game use, it probably gets to 30-35% at most.
> 
> See any issues with running it daily like that, or should I look in to getting the MCW-82 housing? Id really rather not have to disassemble and refill again. Now that the bleeding is done, if there isn't any negative point to a lower flow rate, then Ill keep it as is.


Your temps look very good so I wouldn't mess with it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> So I read on FrozenCPU and it says the H220 is 29mm thick, is this true even with the fans?


With the fans attached it's 53.7mm thick. That's with the fans on the same side of the radiator as the fill port.


----------



## Quatreo

Anyone knows if this will fit a Corsair 600T with Sabertooth Z77 board?


----------



## witeboy07

Just installed custom tubing and added a second 120mm thick rad xspc, plus added my hd 7970. Under load I get a max of about 40c°..

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Scorpion667

I changed my config a little bit. Don't have screenshots for everything, this is just my personal testing that I am sharing.

The radiator is top mounted in my Switch 810. Switched from AP-15 Push - Intake to AP-15 Push/Pull - Exhaust.
Also changed the TIM from MX2 to TM2.

Testing conditions:
-3930k @ 4.5Ghz 1.312-1.32v
-Switch 810 case (closed) with stock NZXT 140mm intake(2x, front) and exhaust (1x, rear) fans
-AP-15's @ 1790 RPM (maxed on Scythe fan controller)
-Prime95 v27.7 build 2 custom Blend test (14.336GB memory used), 15 minute tests (would have done 1 hour tests but I am very busy)

Setup A)
-Top mounted rad
-*AP-15's as Push, intake*
-MX2 paste
-Ambient temp at radiator fan intake 25.5C
-Average core temp after 15 mins 71.83C
-Delta Core temp (Load Core temp minus Ambient temp): *46.33C*

Setup B)
-Top mounted rad
-A*P-15's as Push/Pull, exhaust*
-TIM-Mate 2 paste
-Ambient temp at front case fan intake 26C
-Average core temp after 15 mins 72C
-Delta Core temp (Load Core temp minus Ambient temp): *46C*

I am very happy with these results as my main purpose was to lower GPU temp, which went down 6-8c during heaven and 3dmark11 loops. I didn't like that my case got warm with rad fans as intake and the mosfets beneath the backplate of my 680 lightning (thermal tape in between) got a little toasty with the warm air blowing directly on it. My 680 Lightning is back to getting amazing load temperatures, as it was when my previous CPU cooler (H100) set as exhaust. 47c GPU temp in Heaven at stock clocks FTW.

Conclusion: In this particular scenario, Push - Intake setup is nearly identical to Push/Pull exhaust. The only flaw to this conclusion is that I changed thermal pastes so _it's not a perfect review style compariso_n. It is nearly my experience.

A note on the sound pattern: The Switch 810 has some cross members on the top panel. These cross members actually block the fan intake a little bit on the sides. My AP-15's hate having that restriction in front of them... it gives them an inconsistent sound pattern even when I keep them on 25% on the fan controller, which gets worse as speed goes up. It makes their sound have a pulsating pattern, alternating every 3-4 seconds or so. This drives me nuts. With Push/Pull as exhaust, the intake side is clear of restriction and the cross members do not cause that sound problem on the exhaust side. All my rad fans are mounted beneath the top panel. Overall the sound pattern is much much more consistent and pleasant. Sure, push/pull is a tiny, tiny bit louder, but a more consistent sound in my case.

Screenshot + Pic of Push/Pull
(I forgot to remove the blue tape, used it to keep the exhaust fans in place while I was mounting the rad lol)


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Just installed custom tubing and added a second 120mm thick rad xspc, plus added my hd 7970. Under load I get a max of about 40c°..
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


Specs? Pics? do tell


----------



## Anusha

Just wondering...will this fit in the front drive bays of Silverstone Raven RV03 case?


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Just installed custom tubing and added a second 120mm thick rad xspc, plus added my hd 7970. Under load I get a max of about 40c°..
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD
> 
> 
> 
> Specs? Pics? do tell
Click to expand...

I'll be posting some pics today, my sites should be on my rig list thingy. But everything seems to be running cooker than before. I'm not really a nerd on ambient minus delta, but those temps are what my sensors are showing.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Avonosac

edit: wow i'm dumb, looked at the block instead of documentation, says in right on the side.


----------



## witeboy07

Once sitting on the cpu, the inlet it's the left side.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> edit: wow i'm dumb, looked at the block instead of documentation, says in right on the side.


Like this?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Anybody taken the swivel barbs off the H220 yet? I don't have any more coolant yet so I don't want to do it right now, but it looks like the arms on the Apogee Drive 2 will bolt in place to replace them for the few of us that have both.
> 
> 
> 
> They are extremely similar of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I have Apogee Drive 2 hardware on my H220, for those that don't know. I reused the plastic clips instead of the metal ones because they seemed the easier option at the time.


----------



## Martinm210

Not sure on the APD2 fitting compatibility but it's possible. Looks about the same size and it makes sense considering most everything else except for the pump shaft support looks very much like an APD2. Only difference is the shaft support, pump motor, and heatsink from what I could tell at a glance.


----------



## Caos

please when is back in stock? Thank you.


----------



## Sanlitun

So I am a new H220 owner, the other day I walked into the NCIX Vancouver store and there was one sitting on the shelf so I picked it up. Pretty lucky.

I've been running it for almost two days now and it cools very well, certainly better than the Kuhler 920 I had tried before. And much quieter.

A couple of concerns tho: I noticed a slight anti freeze smell upon opening the box and that seems to be persisting. I cannot detect any leaks or condensation any where so I am wondering if this is normal or not.

The other thing is as the hoses are longer than most other AIO units they tend to rest on the top of the video card unless they are tied up somehow. I've seen more than a few pics in this thread with the hoses resting on video cards. Is this generally regarded as ok?

Thanks!


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanlitun*
> 
> A couple of concerns tho: I noticed a slight anti freeze smell upon opening the box and that seems to be persisting. I cannot detect any leaks or condensation any where so I am wondering if this is normal or not.


i dont think it's so much antifreeze odor but some kind of machine oil or lubricant. I had the same smell but it goes away after a few days.


----------



## witeboy07

Not the pros set-up, but my best. Plus its my second own built. First time custom water cooling!!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the pros set-up, but my best. Plus its my second own built. First time custom water cooling!!
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


Nice job.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Should get my white tubing in tomorrow. Then I can finally get this thing up and running.


----------



## witeboy07

Here is part 1 of my setup on video.






Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## justanoldman

Is there a reason the Swiftech fan splitter will not control a NF-P12 fan? The bios PWM settings affect the NF-P12 if the splitter is plugged into the CPU fan connector on the mobo, but it will not affect the fan at all if the splitter is plugged into any other mobo fan connector - they just run at full speed.

If you have the splitter plugged into a pwm fan connector set to 60%, the NF-P12 will run at 100%. Then unplug the fan from the splitter and plug it into the mobo where the splitter was plugged in and it runs at 60%. So the splitter isn't working as I would expect. Am I missing something?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Is there a reason the Swiftech fan splitter will not control a NF-P12 fan? The bios PWM settings affect the NF-P12 if the splitter is plugged into the CPU fan connector on the mobo, but it will not affect the fan at all if the splitter is plugged into any other mobo fan connector - they just run at full speed.
> 
> If you have the splitter plugged into a pwm fan connector set to 60%, the NF-P12 will run at 100%. Then unplug the fan from the splitter and plug it into the mobo where the splitter was plugged in and it runs at 60%. So the splitter isn't working as I would expect. Am I missing something?


I take it that you're running the pump on your motherboard header and not channel 1 on the splitter. The splitter works by allowing control of channel 1 and all of the other units plugged into the splitter will be adjusted by the same percentage as channel 1. If you don't have anything plugged into channel 1 then I believe everything just works at 100%. I'm not certain about this, but I'll verify it tomorrow when I get into work.


----------



## Polarity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Here is part 1 of my setup on video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


you dont have a res? is it just the h220 + another rad ?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I take it that you're running the pump on your motherboard header and not channel 1 on the splitter. The splitter works by allowing control of channel 1 and all of the other units plugged into the splitter will be adjusted by the same percentage as channel 1. If you don't have anything plugged into channel 1 then I believe everything just works at 100%. I'm not certain about this, but I'll verify it tomorrow when I get into work.


What I don't like is losing the ability to control fan speeds as well as pump speed if you have the splitter in channel 1 with all fans connected to the splitter as well as pump. Your recommended setting doesn't' allow for total control of all speeds.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> you dont have a res? is it just the h220 + another rad ?


You dont need to add a res, the H220 rad has one. As long as its higher then the pump, at least during filling.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I take it that you're running the pump on your motherboard header and not channel 1 on the splitter. The splitter works by allowing control of channel 1 and all of the other units plugged into the splitter will be adjusted by the same percentage as channel 1. If you don't have anything plugged into channel 1 then I believe everything just works at 100%. I'm not certain about this, but I'll verify it tomorrow when I get into work.


Thanks for the reply.
The problem is, I wanted to use some NF-F12 fans with the unit, but you can't use them with the splitter and the pump together. At 35% setting the pump is fine, and your fans are fine at about 1300rpm, but the F12 fans run at about 500rpm with that setting.

So I plugged the pump directly into the CPU fan header at 35% so that is fine. Then I tried putting the F12 fans (with one of them in the main channel 1 slot) into the splitter and plugged the splitter into another PWM fan header on the mobo. The F12 fans run at 100% no matter what. To test it, I left bios alone, and just unplugged the fan from the splitter and plugged it directly into that mobo header - then the bios PWM settings work.

So F12 into mobo = PWM % settings work, but F12 into splitter then splitter into mobo = PWM % does not work.


----------



## CTM Audi

I tried NF-F12s with the splitter, and couldnt get them to run fast enough. Even with 100% setting, when in the splitter, they wouldnt reach 1100RPM. I just use the 2 way splitters they come with. One less molex cable needed.

Fans at 800RPM, playing Crysis 3 for about 2 hours very high FXAA 2560x1440 with the 670 at 1200Mhz, the card topped at 45C, CPU 4.5Ghz 1.225V topped at 62C.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I tried NF-F12s with the splitter, and couldnt get them to run fast enough. Even with 100% setting, when in the splitter, they wouldnt reach 1100RPM. I just use the 2 way splitters they come with. One less molex cable needed.
> 
> Fans at 800RPM, playing Crysis 3 for about 2 hours very high FXAA 2560x1440 with the 670 at 1200Mhz, the card topped at 45C, CPU 4.5Ghz 1.225V topped at 62C.


Yep, I used the two way splitter they come with on my one machine, I am just trying to figure out how to do five F12 fans when I add my 320 rad to the loop. I can go full speed and get about 1450rpm which is a little high, or use the noise adapter to go down to 1150rpm or so which is a little slow.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Here is part 1 of my setup on video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD
> 
> 
> 
> you dont have a res? is it just the h220 + another rad ?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have the xspc phat 120mm, behind the Noctua fan in the front were the DVD bays are at.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Tom Thumb

Are you guys sure those other fan headers are PWM controlled fans headers. They may be voltage controlled fan headers. I don't know if the splitter will work properly with a voltage controlled header. Just a thought.


----------



## witeboy07

Here's part 2 guys. Enjoy!






Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Are you guys sure those other fan headers are PWM controlled fans headers. They may be voltage controlled fan headers. I don't know if the splitter will work with properly with a voltage controlled header. Just a thought.


The splitter won't work at all with voltage headers, the fans will just run at 100%. They are getting power from the molex, so if they aren't getting a PWM signal(which the voltage ones won't), they just go at 100%.

The Noctua fans seem to be a common issue, but I haven't seen any other complaints from people using other fans. Wonder what's different about noctua's that they dislike the splitter.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> The splitter won't work at all with voltage headers, the fans will just run at 100%. They are getting power from the molex, so if they aren't getting a PWM signal(which the voltage ones won't), they just go at 100%.
> 
> The Noctua fans seem to be a common issue, but I haven't seen any other complaints from people using other fans. Wonder what's different about noctua's that they dislike the splitter.


So that's probably the issue then. The other fan header that the splitter is plugged into is voltage controlled, not PWM controlled. That's why the fans run at 100% though the splitter, but work correctly when attached to the boards header and not the splitter.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Maybe you could try plugging the pump into a voltage controlled header. Not sure if this is a good idea or not. Then plug the splitter back into the CPU fan header with the fans plugged into the splitter. Then you maybe able to control the pump and fans separately.
Just not sure if running the pump on a voltage regulated header is a good idea or not.
Maybe Swiftech could chime in on this one!


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> So that's probably the issue then. The other fan header that the splitter is plugged into is voltage controlled, not PWM controlled. That's why the fans run at 100% though the splitter, but work correctly when attached to the boards header and not the splitter.


Tried it on both types of headers, no difference.

I think the only way to do it is plug all 5 fans into the basic fan splitter that came with my case. If I use the noise adapter they are a little slow, but at full speed I think they are too loud, so a little slow isn't too bad since it is quiet.


----------



## Tom Thumb

I know my board has 2 PWM controlled headers for sure. The CPU fan header, and the optional CPU fan header. The rest I believe are voltage controlled headers. I think I will run the pump off of the CPU fan header, and the splitter off of the opt CPU fan header.


----------



## Pure2sin

I will be trying this Tuesday when I get all the fans and stuff I ordered:
Quote:


> I had already bought the Sunbeam PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller before I bought the H220 and was thinking about ways to use it.
> 
> I connect the pump on the H220 to the splitter and the PWM Helix fans on the splitter as normal. Then connect the PWM signal cable from the Rheosmart to the splitter and the 3pin case fans to the Rheosmart controller.
> 
> I should be able to have the best of both worlds. The pump and the helix fans would be connected to the splitter as normal and the fan controller would be getting a PWM signal from the CPU-Fan connector (through the splitter) enabling me to control the fans by using the BIOS along with the pump and helix fans or by using the manual control knobs on the fan controller.
> 
> So in essence it would enable me to connect 3pin fans to the H220 splitter (although not directly) without having them run full speed all the time and allow me to run them in auto or manually control them if I choose to do so.


Although it doesn't help for people who are running all PWM fans.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Yep, I used the two way splitter they come with on my one machine, I am just trying to figure out how to do five F12 fans when I add my 320 rad to the loop. I can go full speed and get about 1450rpm which is a little high, or use the noise adapter to go down to 1150rpm or so which is a little slow.


At 1100RPM, they are plenty fine. I run mine at 800RPM. Having that much rad space only makes sense if you are going to use quiet fan speeds. The difference between 1100RPM and 1500RPM isnt noticable, maybe 1-2C at most. Running at 800RPM only increased my temps by 2C over 1100RPM.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> At 1100RPM, they are plenty fine. I run mine at 800RPM. Having that much rad space only makes sense if you are going to use quiet fan speeds. The difference between 1100RPM and 1500RPM isnt noticable, maybe 1-2C at most. Running at 800RPM only increased my temps by 2C over 1100RPM.


Thanks for the feedback.
With the fans that slow they have to be very quiet, do you hear the H220 pump the most then?


----------



## AdamMT

Why don't you use the Swiftech splitter with the pump in Channel 1 and just set the minimum speed to 50-60%? The pump will still be plenty quiet and it should get the F12 speeds up to a reasonable rpm. The pump can't even run at 35% of max. Minimum pump speed is 40% of max.


----------



## RemagCP

I'm curious when the 280mm AIO kit comes out, how does the naming work with that?


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Maybe you could try plugging the pump into a voltage controlled header. Not sure if this is a good idea or not. Then plug the splitter back into the CPU fan header with the fans plugged into the splitter. Then you maybe able to control the pump and fans separately.
> Just not sure if running the pump on a voltage regulated header is a good idea or not.
> Maybe Swiftech could chime in on this one!


Just to clarify, Swiftech reps have said NOT to run the pump on voltage control. The pump is designed to run at 12v only, and going up or down is a bad thing. I repeat, do not mess with the pumps voltage!

Personally, if I was buying 30-60 bucks in Noctua fans I would probably pony up for a fan controller that does proper PWM control(a lot don't), but that's just me. I can understand people's frustration if it isn't working like they thought it would.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> I'm curious when the 280mm AIO kit comes out, how does the naming work with that?


It will probably be named the h240. The first number dictates the number of fan's being used, so 120/220/320 are X number of 120 fans, the second number is the size of the fan, so either a 2 or a 4.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Why don't you use the Swiftech splitter with the pump in Channel 1 and just set the minimum speed to 50-60%? The pump will still be plenty quiet and it should get the F12 speeds up to a reasonable rpm. The pump can't even run at 35% of max. Minimum pump speed is 40% of max.


I run my pump at 20%.

That puts the pump at 1500rpm which is very slightly more noticeable then four nf-f12s at 800rpm. Not sure if its louder, but the tone is more noticeable then the noctuas.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Tried it on both types of headers, no difference.
> 
> I think the only way to do it is plug all 5 fans into the basic fan splitter that came with my case. If I use the noise adapter they are a little slow, but at full speed I think they are too loud, so a little slow isn't too bad since it is quiet.


I'm a little confused. What happens if you plug the splitter into the CPU fan header with all the fans plugged into it, and the splitter powered by molex?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> I'm a little confused. What happens if you plug the splitter into the CPU fan header with all the fans plugged into it, and the splitter powered by molex?


If I plug the stock fans and pump into the CPU fan header it works fine, Martin's lab has a great graph of the % and rpm. I can use 35% and that puts the stock fans at 1300+ rpm. The NF-F12 react on a straight curve, not like the stock fans. To get the F12 to be 1300 rpm you would need a setting of 85% and that is way too much pump speed for me.

The issue is that the stock fans have a very modified %/rpm curve so they match the pump. Throwing in different fans messes that all up. You have to control the fans and pump separately, that is why I wanted to see if I could use the splitter on the F12, but I can't get it to work on anything other than the cpu header.

No big deal, I will just use the adapters for the fans to slow them down or get a controller.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> I run my pump at 20%.
> 
> That puts the pump at 1500rpm which is very slightly more noticeable then four nf-f12s at 800rpm. Not sure if its louder, but the tone is more noticeable then the noctuas.


You may be setting the PWM to 20% but if the pump is at 1500rpm that's actually 50% of it's max rpm of 3000.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> You may be setting the PWM to 20% but if the pump is at 1500rpm that's actually 50% of it's max rpm of 3000.


Actually it's not, because it doesn't run any lower than 1200rpm. 50% would be 2100rpm. I think?
An operating spectrum of 1800rpm from lowest to highest rpm.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> If I plug the stock fans and pump into the CPU fan header it works fine, Martin's lab has a great graph of the % and rpm. I can use 35% and that puts the stock fans at 1300+ rpm. The NF-F12 react on a straight curve, not like the stock fans. To get the F12 to be 1300 rpm you would need a setting of 85% and that is way too much pump speed for me.
> 
> The issue is that the stock fans have a very modified %/rpm curve so they match the pump. Throwing in different fans messes that all up. You have to control the fans and pump separately, that is why I wanted to see if I could use the splitter on the F12, but I can't get it to work on anything other than the cpu header.
> 
> No big deal, I will just use the adapters for the fans to slow them down or get a controller.


Got it.


----------



## Sarah M

Hi everyone, I am new here today. Overclocking has been something that I have thought of but have been to scared to do incase I destroyed my hardware. Since I saw the reviews of the Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler I feel confident enogh to give it all a try. Can anyone please help me to find one? I seem to have looked everywhere but cant find any.
Thank you SO much in advance.


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am new here today. Overclocking has been something that I have thought of but have been to scared to do incase I destroyed my hardware. Since I saw the reviews of the Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler I feel confident enough to give it all a try. Can anyone please help me to find one? I seem to have looked everywhere but cant find any.
> Thank you SO much in advance.


Right now they are only on limited stock, they are currently moving to a new area and are estimating for restock sometime in April I believe. Just keep looking on sites and maybe they might have some in stock. But don't count on it as many people are doing the same as you. Good Luck!


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> If I plug the stock fans and pump into the CPU fan header it works fine, Martin's lab has a great graph of the % and rpm. I can use 35% and that puts the stock fans at 1300+ rpm. The NF-F12 react on a straight curve, not like the stock fans. To get the F12 to be 1300 rpm you would need a setting of 85% and that is way too much pump speed for me.
> 
> The issue is that the stock fans have a very modified %/rpm curve so they match the pump. Throwing in different fans messes that all up. You have to control the fans and pump separately, that is why I wanted to see if I could use the splitter on the F12, but I can't get it to work on anything other than the cpu header.
> 
> No big deal, I will just use the adapters for the fans to slow them down or get a controller.


Cant you use the splitter with fans on CPU header, and pump on another header?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Cant you use the splitter with fans on CPU header, and pump on another header?


The range for the others is 60% to 100%, so I can't set it to 35%, and 60% is too high for me.


----------



## Avonosac

Just finished my loop with my titan and the extra 220 QP, got the thing leak testing over night. I'll run some scores tomorrow and see what kind of temps I'm getting.

Quick preview ...











and


----------



## AlDyer

Hello, are you H220 owners happy with the performance? Anyone using it for AM3+? Also are the stock fans good enough or should I buy something like the Corsair pressure optimized fans?


----------



## BrotherJoseph

So I eventually figured out my waterblock issue on my 7950. It was obviously shorting something because I added more thermal padding around certain components and it became stable again. I also added more Helix fans for Push/Pull.

MSI 7950 (8+6) with Koolance AR797
Voltage: 1224mV
Core: 1220MHz
Memory: 1625MHz

PWM : Temps
*Idle* _(Memory @ 100%)_
20% : 34°C
100% : 33°C

*Load* _(Furmark 15mins)_
20% : 60°C
100% : 58°C

I will be testing the Komodo block soon...


----------



## Magnum26

Any news on when anyone in the UK will actually have stock of the H220? According to websites like Specialtech they were due in stock on the 21st March.

Also I saw in another thread there is the possibility of a H240, does anyone know when these would be out as I would prefer this for when I get my Define R4.







:thumb:


----------



## ez12a

Managed to get push/pull sorta in the 600t. Just used the 'ol use zip ties as screws method.













Might add a second one later. Couldnt see a huge improvement (no improvement at all really...) but it might be due to using mismatched fans for push and pull.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Managed to get push/pull sorta in the 600t. Just used the 'ol use zip ties as screws method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might add a second one later. Couldnt see a huge improvement (no improvement at all really...) but it might be due to using mismatched fans for push and pull.


The improvement with push / pull seems to be fairly minor from what I have read. Myself, I am debating whether to even waste the two extra Gentle Typhoons with my H220. I think the modest improvements with a push / pull setup may be due to the "silence focused" design and thickness of the H220 radiator.


----------



## AlDyer

I have an AM3+ board and I am quite worried that the 8 pin cpu power will block the placement of the rad in my 600T? Is there a reason to worry or am I safe?


----------



## Tom Thumb

My tubing is in!!!







Too bad I'm at work right now.








Will get to it when I get home tonight. Pics to follow.


----------



## twitchyzero

my case's top mesh grille has dust filters and is more suited for top intake
I should position the 2 included Helix fans as intake to pull cool ambient air through the rad right?
I have 2x120mm intake front filtered, 1x200mm side filtered and rear exhaust unfiltered...case is 500R


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> my case's top mesh grille has dust filters and is more suited for top intake
> I should position the 2 included Helix fans as intake to pull cool ambient air through the rad right?
> I have 2x120mm intake front filtered, 1x200mm side filtered and rear exhaust unfiltered...case is 500R


Personally Id do pull exhaust.

With SLI, having the warm rad air blow towards the cards is going to heat them up. There is only a 1-2C load CPU difference doing exhaust pull vs intake push. Plus you dont have to worry about dust caking on the rad when you do pull.


----------



## Shwingdom

Just got everything buttoned up with the new H220!


----------



## Yosarian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Just finished my loop with my titan and the extra 220 QP, got the thing leak testing over night. I'll run some scores tomorrow and see what kind of temps I'm getting.
> 
> Quick preview ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and


I am interested in the same kind of build as yours! Possibly using a Prodigy, although the Caselabs S3 is looking good.
I look forward to seeing more pictures on your build log.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yosarian*
> 
> I am interested in the same kind of build as yours! Possibly using a Prodigy, although the Caselabs S3 is looking good.
> I look forward to seeing more pictures on your build log.


Thanks!

I got a ton of pictures, I need to get them together and start updating the build log


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shwingdom*
> 
> Just got everything buttoned up with the new H220!


Looks great


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Personally Id do pull exhaust.
> 
> With SLI, having the warm rad air blow towards the cards is going to heat them up. There is only a 1-2C load CPU difference doing exhaust pull vs intake push. Plus you dont have to worry about dust caking on the rad when you do pull.


but top intake allows CPU to run cooler right?
I should mention my SLI are blower-styled so internal temps aren't too shabby.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> but top intake allows CPU to run cooler right?
> I should mention my SLI are blower-styled so internal temps aren't too shabby.


As I said, its only 1-2C cooler, and thats at max load. During normal use or gaming, there is essentially no difference.

Having a stock blower style cooler means it pulls the air thats in the case over the GPU. Warmer air in the case from having the rad an intake, means warmer air going to your GPUs, causing an increase in GPU temps. How much so is system specific.


----------



## Pure2sin

Does anyone know where I can find a 4 pin Female to Female extension? Trying to hook my fan controller to the H220 splitter but both of them are male.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shwingdom*
> 
> Just got everything buttoned up with the new H220!


Nice! What kind of chipset blocks are you using?


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shwingdom*
> 
> Just got everything buttoned up with the new H220!


Very nice build! Grats!


----------



## witeboy07

I wonder how the temps will change once I add my second 7970, best pc build i have ever done!!


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Very nice build! Grats!


Looks nice, you could do with another strip of leds in there near the bottom to light it up a bit more, bit dark for my liking.







:thumb:


----------



## bundymania

Hi Guys,

I´m new to this thread. Are there some user vids where the pump noise with open case is hearable ?


----------



## Shwingdom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Looks great


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Very nice build! Grats!


Much appreciated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Looks nice, you could do with another strip of leds in there near the bottom to light it up a bit more, bit dark for my liking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Yeah, now that I have everything in there I do agree that I need some more LEDs. Was going to try 2x 12" inverter-less cathodes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Nice! What kind of chipset blocks are you using?


It's a: 2600k on an ASUS P8Z68-V pro gen3, ASUS gtx670 DCII top, an EK dominatorx4 ram block, and an extra swiftech 120mm rad.

edit: If you mean mobo VRM and z68 chipset coolers, they're just stock.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shwingdom*
> 
> Yeah, now that I have everything in there I do agree that I need some more LEDs. Was going to try 2x 12" inverter-less cathodes.


That would work just as well


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shwingdom*
> 
> It's a: 2600k on an ASUS P8Z68-V pro gen3, ASUS gtx670 DCII top, an EK dominatorx4 ram block, and an extra swiftech 120mm rad.
> 
> edit: If you mean mobo VRM and z68 chipset coolers, they're just stock.


Ah, okay, I was looking at the RAM block. I've been thinking about adding an EK VRM block to my system (3930K).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I´m new to this thread. Are there some user vids where the pump noise with open case is hearable ?


bundymania, welcome to this thread and if you do a YouTube search for H220 pump noise you'll find what you're looking for. It looks like those videos were just posted yesterday. I had a feeling that you'd join in sooner or later.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I´m new to this thread. Are there some user vids where the pump noise with open case is hearable ?


specifically an open case:


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> I know my board has 2 PWM controlled headers for sure. The CPU fan header, and the optional CPU fan header. The rest I believe are voltage controlled headers. I think I will run the pump off of the CPU fan header, and the splitter off of the opt CPU fan header.


This won't work the way I planned. The bios PWM settings control both the CPU fan header, and the CPU-OPT fan header. You can not set one different from the other. They are one and the same.








My Enermax Clusters are running to slow as well when connected to the splitter coming of the CPU fan header, or the CPU-OPT fan header. Have to find a different way to hook up the Clusters!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> This won't work the way I planned. The bios PWM settings control both the CPU fan header, and the CPU-OPT fan header. You can not set one different from the other. They are one and the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Enermax Clusters are running to slow as well when connected to the splitter coming of the CPU fan header, or the CPU-OPT fan header. Have to find a different way to hook up the Clusters!


I'm having similar issues, the z77e-itx and the z77ia-e53 both have 4 pin headers for case fans, but voltage vary it only. It is really annoying when you expect the pump / fans to run at the right range, and only get 500 RPM of control through PWM









I have all 6 of my plugs on the splitter now controlled by the CPU header based on temps on the CPU, slightly annoying since I can't just put a profile in now to turn the fans up, I have to also increase pump speed to max which makes the system much louder.


----------



## CTM Audi

PWM just isnt really there yet. I prefer to set it at one speed and leave it. 800RPM on most good fans is really quiet, and not really much warmer then what I would consider a loud 1100-1200RPM.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> PWM just isnt really there yet. I prefer to set it at one speed and leave it. 800RPM on most good fans is really quiet, and not really much warmer then what I would consider a loud 1100-1200RPM.


Yea, this is essentially what I want to do with PWM. There really is no good reason for not supporting this, its only slightly more difficult than voltage modulation to add to the motherboard... if it is more difficult at all. I don't understand why they add 4 pin headers that aren't PWM for real, it just seems like lazy designs. I want to put my pump on one header, and the fans on the CPU header, so I can just set a % and let them go, as it is now the pump varies with the same range as the fans, and hearing the pump at full blast is annoying, and unnecessary.

I'm looking for a mPCIe or mSATA pwm fan controller that I could use for true PWM from software.. as it stands I still haven't found anything yet to really get the job done.


----------



## AdamMT

Best solution might be to ditch the PWM fans and just plug them into regular fan ports and control them via bios or software.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Best solution might be to ditch the PWM fans and just plug them into regular fan ports and control them via bios or software.


http://www.msi.com/product/mb/Z77IA-E53.html

There is no such thing, and no such control. I tried SpeedFan and I didn't get any additional control over the pump than I had in ControlCenter. I need a mPCIe / PCIe / mSATA / SATA solution + adapter if necessary that can fit in the small space of the slot, and also doesn't sit outside the case, as I am preparing this system as a stepping stone to a very small, very compact SFF watercooled system.


----------



## Sanlitun

So my pump failed after about 15 hours of use. I think my CPU is ok, still testing it all out.

The only thing odd was a very strong unpleasant smell that persisted ever since I took the H220 out of the box. Strong enough to make me dizzy.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanlitun*
> 
> So my pump failed after about 15 hours of use. I think my CPU is ok, still testing it all out.
> 
> The only thing odd was a very strong unpleasant smell that persisted ever since I took the H220 out of the box. Strong enough to make me dizzy.


I think you emailed us and we can certainly help you with this. Don't worry, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## justanoldman

With any computer product there is a percentage of problem units. I have had to replace a number of things while building these two rigs, so some H220 units having issues is normal especially since it is a brand new item.

No one should be worried about getting an H220 because of some problem units, myself and others on this thread can confirm Bryan and others at Swiftech will take care of you.


----------



## BigMorgan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> http://www.msi.com/product/mb/Z77IA-E53.html
> 
> There is no such thing, and no such control. I tried SpeedFan and I didn't get any additional control over the pump than I had in ControlCenter. I need a mPCIe / PCIe / mSATA / SATA solution + adapter if necessary that can fit in the small space of the slot, and also doesn't sit outside the case, as I am preparing this system as a stepping stone to a very small, very compact SFF watercooled system.


I'm planning on using Corsair Link to manage my new build's cooling. Anyone else using it in combination with the H220?

Probably close to a month out from having it assembled, as I just ordered a Fractal Arc Midi R2, Akasa Vipers, and Corsair link this evening. I plan on buying an H220 the day they hit MicroCenter. Will advise how it all works out.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigMorgan*
> 
> I'm planning on using Corsair Link to manage my new build's cooling. Anyone else using it in combination with the H220?
> 
> Probably close to a month out from having it assembled, as I just ordered a Fractal Arc Midi R2, Akasa Vipers, and Corsair link this evening. I plan on buying an H220 the day they hit MicroCenter. Will advise how it all works out.


does CorsairLink work without a CorsairLink controller (to actually control speeds not just monitor)? It doesnt seem like it can, but then again i only had 2 weeks with it.


----------



## gsk3rd

Knock on wood, I have not had any problems with my H220. Running smooth. I will be cutting the tubes to get it to fit a bit better and might even add a second set of fans for push/pull.


----------



## dsmwookie

Has anyone put this in a 550D by chance? Or a Corsair 300R?


----------



## Scorpion667

Loving the H220 phenomenon =)

[edit2] 2000th post woo!


----------



## NIK1

How do you change the pump speed on a Asus Sabertooth board. My pump is going around 3000 rpm,and the 2 Helix fans are around 1800.My Idle cpu temps is around 28 to 32 cel.Are these speeds and temps good for a I5 3570k 3.4 oc to 4.2 ghz.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> How do you change the pump speed on a Asus Sabertooth board. My pump is going around 3000 rpm,and the 2 Helix fans are around 1800.My Idle cpu temps is around 28 to 32 cel.Are these speeds and temps good for a I5 3570k 3.4 oc to 4.2 ghz.


If you have the pump/fans attached to the splitter, and the splitter to the cpu header, you can control speed either via the bios or AI Suite's thermal radar.

Can't tell if your temps are good without knowing your ambient temperature and temperature under load. Also, what cpu voltage are you using?


----------



## Fleat

Did the initial install of just the H220 last night, and I wasn't a huge fan of the backplate mounting setup. I also wasn't able to use the short screws for my Gentle Typhoon's due to the plastic ridges in the fan screw hole (not Swiftech's issue), and didn't have a dremel handy. So that was quite interesting attempting to get it mounted with the long screws threw the case / fan / radiator.

All in all, it is mounted and performing quite nicely so far. I will be keeping a close eye on the pump after reading a lot of the feedback here though.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody taken the swivel barbs off the H220 yet? I don't have any more coolant yet so I don't want to do it right now, but it looks like the arms on the Apogee Drive 2 will bolt in place to replace them for the few of us that have both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are extremely similar of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I have Apogee Drive 2 hardware on my H220, for those that don't know. I reused the plastic clips instead of the metal ones because they seemed the easier option at the time
> 
> 
> .


Absolutely Yes I see that..! I would put Apogee Drive 2 on the H220 for experiment to see how it works if I were you.


----------



## colforbin

Are there any batch numbers, or lot numbers that Swiftech has identified for the pump issues or do they seem to be random? This for anyone on the Swiftech Team.


----------



## mojojj31

Help!! Is there something wrong with my H220? It's making a horrific noise, like it's grinding. Sounds like a tiny lawnmower. You'll probably need headphones on to hear it.




The loop runs *H220 Pump > Top RAD > Mid Rad > Bottom Rad > GPU > H220 Pump*. There is a bleed line attached to the gpu block that feeds into the pump inlet. It took *hours* to bleed the loop. Cycling the pump didn't really help too much, I had to do a lot of lifting, tilting, and turning. Let's just say that I don't need to hit the gym for the next day or two. I'm fairly confident that I've gotten the air out of the system, so I'm not sure what's causing the noise.

Is it air still? Nothing I'm doing seems to be getting it out. I even let it run for a few minutes at one point, both inlet and outlet were filled with water so I thought it should be ok. The pump would automatically shut itself off!

I bought the H220 specifically for the pump+block as the core of my new loop. I initially wanted the the Drive II, but that isn't available in Canada. I tested it briefly in it's stock configuration and I thought it was working fine. I did notice that it was making a vibrating sound that was slightly annoying, but thought it was how the pump should sound. I drained the H220 and de-tubed the pump for use with my loop.


----------



## CTM Audi

Sounds like you had as much trouble as I did with bleeding. Ive noticed they do make a bit of noise when mounted to the mobo that they dont make when not mounted. Id say un-mount it and see if it still makes the noise.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Hard to hear, but it sounds like air.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Help!! Is there something wrong with my H220? It's making a horrific noise, like it's grinding. Sounds like a tiny lawnmower. You'll probably need headphones on to hear it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The loop runs *H220 Pump > Top RAD > Mid Rad > Bottom Rad > GPU > H220 Pump*. There is a bleed line attached to the gpu block that feeds into the pump inlet. It took *hours* to bleed the loop. Cycling the pump didn't really help too much, I had to do a lot of lifting, tilting, and turning. Let's just say that I don't need to hit the gym for the next day or two. I'm fairly confident that I've gotten the air out of the system, so I'm not sure what's causing the noise.
> 
> Is it air still? Nothing I'm doing seems to be getting it out. I even let it run for a few minutes at one point, both inlet and outlet were filled with water so I thought it should be ok. The pump would automatically shut itself off!
> 
> I bought the H220 specifically for the pump+block as the core of my new loop. I initially wanted the the Drive II, but that isn't available in Canada. I tested it briefly in it's stock configuration and I thought it was working fine. I did notice that it was making a vibrating sound that was slightly annoying, but thought it was how the pump should sound. I drained the H220 and de-tubed the pump for use with my loop.


That noise definitely sounds like there is still air trapped in your pump. With your kit set up like this it's going to be difficult to bleed it. You may still have to tilt it and turn it with the pump running to get all of the air out of it. Keep me posted.


----------



## mojojj31

Yea, youtube doesn't really convey the sound that well. I recommend headphones and turning the volumn up =). The grinding sound is what worries me.

if it's air in the pump, then any tips on getting it out? I've literally twisted the case upside down and every other orientation =(.


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That noise definitely sounds like there is still air trapped in your pump. With your kit set up like this it's going to be difficult to bleed it. You may still have to tilt it and turn it with the pump running to get all of the air out of it. Keep me posted.


Do I leave the pump on while I'm doing all the tilting and turning? Is it ok if the pump shuts itself off - I'm afraid that this has damaged it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Yea, youtube doesn't really convey the sound that well. I recommend headphones and turning the volumn up =). The grinding sound is what worries me.
> 
> if it's air in the pump, then any tips on getting it out? I've literally twisted the case upside down and every other orientation =(.


Another issue is that you said you have the inlet being fed by the GPU. This isn't recommended because of exactly this reason. The inlet should be fed directly by the reservoir, just like the way I show how to do it in our video. Having it set up like this is creating an issue with being able to bleed the system and it sounds like the pump is sucking air. That's why it's making that noise that you're hearing. I listened to it with headphones and that's definitely the sound of a pump sucking air.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Another issue is that you said you have the inlet being fed by the GPU. This isn't recommended because of exactly this reason. The inlet should be fed directly by the reservoir, just like the way I show how to do it in our video. Having it set up like this is creating an issue with being able to bleed the system and it sounds like the pump is sucking air. That's why it's making that noise that you're hearing. I listened to it with headphones and that's definitely the sound of a pump sucking air.


I didn't get to hear it yet, but I can say from my experience, I needed to have the pump connect through the GPU to the inlet, and I had a hell of a time bleeding the air. You need to have the pump running while tilting the case and moving the air bubble around. The way I did it was think of playing that ball in a maze game.. work the air bubble through the GPU into the pump and then prime the pump slowly, repeat as necessary. You will need to leave the pump running in different orientations to completely bleed the air out, but you will get it eventually.


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I didn't get to hear it yet, but I can say from my experience, I needed to have the pump connect through the GPU to the inlet, and I had a hell of a time bleeding the air. You need to have the pump running while tilting the case and moving the air bubble around. The way I did it was think of playing that ball in a maze game.. work the air bubble through the GPU into the pump and then prime the pump slowly, repeat as necessary. You will need to leave the pump running in different orientations to completely bleed the air out, but you will get it eventually.


Yea, was trying that last night, but had my pump turned off while doing it. I'll give it a try today with the pump on, hopefully that works.


----------



## iceman0C

I've still to post a pic and officially join this club, but I had to come on here to commend Swiftech's support, esp. *BramSLI1* aka Bryan.

Long story short my pump died and I was getting a 'cpu fan error' (trust me I did a lot of troubleshooting). Called up Swiftech, no crap IVR, spoke to Bryan and had them RMA and cross-ship my H220! That is great service!

Kudos


----------



## AlDyer

Ok I have a massive problem. My H220 leaked a lot of its liquid out.. Is it still usable and how do I tighten it so I can get the liquid stay in properly? This is just horrible, since I just got a broken H100. What is wrong with liquid coolers?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Ok I have a massive problem. My H220 leaked a lot of its liquid out.. Is it still usable and how do I tighten it so I can get the liquid stay in properly? This is just horrible, since I just got a broken H100. What is wrong with liquid coolers?


What exactly do you mean. Leaked out from where? While running? In the box? Did you disassemble it and add parts?


----------



## AlDyer

I was gonna put it on when it leaked. also the fins were bent and a fan was partially broken, but I cant prove anything )= What do I do? Im terrified :S Im ok with the other problems, but is it still usable and can I tighten it somehow?


----------



## AlDyer

Also where can I get distilled water from quickly? I could just refill, but I NEED it to be TIGHT...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I was gonna put it on when it leaked. also the fins were bent and a fan was partially broken, but I cant prove anything )= What do I do? Im terrified :S Im ok with the other problems, but is it still usable and can I tighten it somehow?


Where did it leak from? Is it leaking from the radiator or the water block? Having a few bent fins on a radiator is actually normal. That is as long as there isn't an excessive amount of them and the water channels aren't damaged. We can replace your fan for you as well. Send me a PM so I can help you get the fan replaced.


----------



## AlDyer

I dont need a replace fan thanks for the response. Its loose from the block and it still has a lot of liquid in so I think I can still use the cooler or am I wrong? If I really need an RMA just tell me, but I would like to avoid it if possible... I just want it tight for tonight and I can add more liquid later


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I dont need a replace fan thanks for the response. Its loose from the block and it still has a lot of liquid in so I think I can still use the cooler or am I wrong? If I really need an RMA just tell me, but I would like to avoid it if possible... I just want it tight for tonight and I can add more liquid later


I know its nice to have it, but I would throw a stock cooler on your CPU if the liquid didn't leak on your components and let Bryan assist you for peace of mind that you have a solid cooling product on your expensive hardware. None of what you mention is normal besides some light bent fins, if the fan was partially broken, I would say it sounds like an issue with shipping and something broke, because you are the first case I have read about where someone had a leak with this unit.

Granted I am not a swiftech employee but I have been a bit of a fan of this unit since I learned about it.


----------



## AdamMT

Not sure if I would RMA the whole unit, but I'd definitely run it outside the system before installing. You can buy distilled water at any drugstore.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I dont need a replace fan thanks for the response. Its loose from the block and it still has a lot of liquid in so I think I can still use the cooler or am I wrong? If I really need an RMA just tell me, but I would like to avoid it if possible... I just want it tight for tonight and I can add more liquid later


If it's leaking from the block my advice to you would be to take off the removable face plate with our logo on it and try to tighten the screws that hold down the pump. It does sound like something happened during shipping. This is the first instance where we've heard of these units leaking upon first installation. Once you tighten it down then try testing it by running it outside of your case. If you're satisfied that it doesn't leak after several hours of testing then it should be alright to install in your case. If it leaks during this testing phase then something has been damaged during shipping and we'll be able to take care of it from there. My thinking though is that if this is leaking upon your initial installation then there is a good chance that the block has been damaged. Keep me posted.


----------



## AlDyer

Im not going to rma the fan was just slightly broken and only a few of those pins where bent, although I did bend one or two more myself by accident ^^. I just want to get it tight, but dont know how :S. I will get distilled water tomorrow, are there differences and how can I changethe liquid. I emptied the whole thing now. Sorry that im so horrible with water cooling, but im very inexperienced with it...

EDIT: I will do as you said and keep all of you up to date after I get the liquid tomorrow


----------



## AlDyer

Also another thing is that the reason why it leaked is that the hose just came out of the block, which I forgot to mention. (Crucial information and i forget) -.-


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Yea, was trying that last night, but had my pump turned off while doing it. I'll give it a try today with the pump on, hopefully that works.


I'm all paranoid now. I just drained my loop and disconnected the pump. Gonna try running the pump with the stock radiator and see if the sound is still there. Hopefully it's not damaged.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Also another thing is that the reason why it leaked is that the hose just came out of the block, which I forgot to mention. (Crucial information and i forget) -.-


Which hose came out of the block? Are you talking about the tubing itself that came off of the swivel barb fitting, or did the barb fitting come out of the block? If the hose just came off of the barb you should be able to use the clamp and screw to tighten it back down once you get it put back in place. If the barb actually came out of the block I'm not sure there is anything that you'll be able to do and we may need to RMA it for you. Let me know what actually came apart.


----------



## AlDyer

It was the whole thing that came out of the block. So that means RMA, right? I don't want to send this abroad or anything so that is a problem... Cant I glue it or what can I do?


----------



## Nanolab

Hello to all !

First, sorry for my english...

I've received my H220 yesterday, mounted it in my old (but beloved) HAF 932 with 2 Noctua NF-P12 PWM in push/pull config.
H220 Pump and stock fans are currently hooked to the splitter (on CPU_Fan header), while the Noctuas are on another PWM mobo header.

Here's a picture of it (sorry for the quality and the mess.. currently in testing phase, will do cleaning and cables management when sure all is working as intended...)



I had to flip orientation of the pump because it was in contact with the left heat spreader and first ram stick of the P8Z77V-LK :


My first watercooling ! I was on air before (Noctua NH-U12P). My rig was running at 4.4 Ghz, 1.200V, with temps averaging 80°C.

With H220, testing 4.5Ghz at 1.220V, without side case door :


So I'm just beginning to test that kit but impressed with results so far with the H220.

Any advices appreciated !


----------



## AdamMT

I hear it's not such a good idea to have different fans in push/pull because they can fight each other with different speeds and patterns. I'd mount both noctuas on one side and both helix fans on the other. But this is just from reading what others have said -- not personal experience.


----------



## Nanolab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I hear it's not such a good idea to have different fans in push/pull because they can fight each other with different speeds and patterns. I'd mount both noctuas on one side and both helix fans on the other. But this is just from reading what others have said -- not personal experience.


Yes, I read that while browsing this thread, will do more tests as I can control each of 2 kits separately, thanks to the 2 PWM headers connected (one for the whole H220, one for the 2 Noctuas).


----------



## Brannigans Law

Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.

Here's a pic when its on idle


And here on full load


In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet







Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.
> 
> Here's a pic when its on idle
> 
> 
> And here on full load
> 
> 
> In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible


If you can remove the block and post a picture of both the block and the processor without cleaning off the thermal paste this will give all of us an idea of what might be going on here. It simply sounds like your'e not getting a proper contact between your processor and the water block.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.
> 
> In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible


You don't have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don't generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You don't have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don't generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.


Good catch! I didn't notice the voltage settings. That is most likely the main reason for his unusually high temps at stock speeds.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You don't have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don't generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.


Just added my sig







, thank you lol. Ok I'm pretty sure i read that my motherboard has a clear CMOS button on the back I/O. Would that be the best way of doing it?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Just added my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , thank you lol. Ok I'm pretty sure i read that my motherboard has a clear CMOS button on the back I/O. Would that be the best way of doing it?


Yes, hold the clear CMOS button for 10 seconds or so, then let go. Load up into bios, then hit f5 to load optimized defaults, then f10 to save and exit. If that doesn't work you have the Asus bios bug, and need to reflash bios.

Read, follow, and copy all the settings (except for your specific ram timings and voltages) from the guide here when you are ready to oc your chip:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## Avonosac

lol, with those voltages you should be at 4.5 at least, lol.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Yes, hold the clear CMOS button for 10 seconds or so, then let go. Load up into bios, then hit f5 to load optimized defaults, then f10 to save and exit. If that doesn't work you have the Asus bios bug, and need to reflash bios.
> 
> Read, follow, and copy all the settings (except for your specific ram timings and voltages) from the guide here when you are ready to oc your chip:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


Ok so my voltage went back down to 0.9v. Looks like it worked. Gonna run prime for another 30 minutes to see if there is any difference.


----------



## ez12a

I would also check to see whether your VRM heatsinks are getting in the way. Looking at the stock photos of the motherboard, they seem to be pretty tall.

its kind of hard to tell with the pump installed, but the barbs may be touching the heatsink and preventing a proper seat. That is a problem with my motherboard so I had to rotate the pump so the inlet is at the top.

A surefire sign is when you remove the block to reseat, look to see if the barb elbows are scuffed.

it made a 8C difference reseating the cooler properly. At first i was seeing temps equal if not worse than the h100i.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> lol, with those voltages you should be at 4.5 at least, lol.


Lol yea it looked really bad. I tried the asus CPU level up to automatically overclock my CPU to 4.6 But I got a little nervous and when... well tried to go back to stock speeds. Is it better to overclock the CPU yourself instead of trying to do it it the lazy way? lol


----------



## twitchyzero

Can I control the Helix fans with this controller?

http://www.amazon.com/SENTRY-Touch-Screen-Fan-Controller/dp/B002L16OMO


----------



## Tom Thumb

Hey Bryan. Is it safe to connect the pump power line directly to the motherboard CPU fan header?
Thanks.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Hey Bryan. Is it safe to connect the pump power line directly to the motherboard CPU fan header?
> Thanks.


yes. At max power the pump pulls about .5A. most pwm headers for CPU fans go up to 1A. Mine is set up that way without any problems. Look at your mobo manual for specifics.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Lol yea it looked really bad. I tried the asus CPU level up to automatically overclock my CPU to 4.6 But I got a little nervous and when... well tried to go back to stock speeds. Is it better to overclock the CPU yourself instead of trying to do it it the lazy way? lol


Oh yes.

Stock voltage with no offset on that board, you should be hitting 4.2 / 4.3 just by upping the turbo multiplier for all cores.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yes. At max power the pump pulls about .5A. most pwm headers for CPU fans go up to 1A. Mine is set up that way without any problems. Look at your mobo manual for specifics.


Thanks.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.
> 
> In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible


Aside from the other suggestions, check that you put the backplate on right. It has a cutout on the backplate that is supposed to go around the two screws that are part of the latching mechanism for the CPU. If you dont, it can effect the pressure of the mount.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Hey Bryan. Is it safe to connect the pump power line directly to the motherboard CPU fan header?
> Thanks.


Yes it is, that shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Can I control the Helix fans with this controller?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/SENTRY-Touch-Screen-Fan-Controller/dp/B002L16OMO


In looking into it I don't think that controller has true PWM functionality. It will therefore control our PWM fans through voltage regulation which isn't good for them. This controller doesn't even have four pin connectors for PWM fans. It will work fine though if you use it with our non-PWM fans.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Now that i reset my CMOS and got rid of that high voltage everything is looking really good! Now the 3770k looks normal at stock speeds. Well ill let you guys tell me if it looks normal lol.

Here's on full load.


And here's on idle after the test.


So you guys think its safe now to start my great adventure of overclocking my 3770k? I'm aiming at 4.6 or 4.7. What should be the normal temps for those clocks? I'll be running an H220 with 2x nf-12 fans in push configuration. And thanks again everybody.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Now that i reset my CMOS and got rid of that high voltage everything is looking really good! Now the 3770k looks normal at stock speeds. Well ill let you guys tell me if it looks normal lol.
> 
> Here's on full load.
> 
> 
> And here's on idle after the test.
> 
> 
> So you guys think its safe now to start my great adventure of overclocking my 3770k? I'm aiming at 4.6 or 4.7. What should be the normal temps for those clocks? I'll be running an H220 with 2x nf-12 fans in push configuration. And thanks again everybody.


Even 60s seem really high to me. You should be in lower 50s. Check the backplate.

What is your ambient temp?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Now that i reset my CMOS and got rid of that high voltage everything is looking really good! Now the 3770k looks normal at stock speeds. Well ill let you guys tell me if it looks normal lol.
> 
> So you guys think its safe now to start my great adventure of overclocking my 3770k? I'm aiming at 4.6 or 4.7. What should be the normal temps for those clocks? I'll be running an H220 with 2x nf-12 fans in push configuration. And thanks again everybody.


Much better now. Can't say normal temps for a multiplier alone, it depends on what voltage you need. Depending on your luck with your particular chip you may be able to do 4.8 easily, or not at all. No one knows until you test it. Start with 4.5 at most, and follow the guide I linked before and you will be ok. As an example one chip did 4.7 at 1.35 and had max temps in the 88c range, those are pre delid temps. I would flash the bios in the first post linked below before starting your oc adventure, it should address the current bios bug.
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?31183-M5-1707-bioses


----------



## Dizz22r

Hey anyone know if the 2011 back plate of the apogee DII is the same as the 1155/1156? I might consider buying a AP2 but it comes with a 2011 socket my cpu is 1155. Someone is offering me one brand new fairly cheap. I looked at the pictures and 2011 looks the same as 1155 on swiftech website.









http://www.swiftech.com/apogeedrive2.aspx

Worried with so many h220 failing pumps i might just cough up the extra cash and go full Custom.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Aside from the other suggestions, check that you put the backplate on right. It has a cutout on the backplate that is supposed to go around the two screws that are part of the latching mechanism for the CPU. If you dont, it can effect the pressure of the mount.


Yea my backplate is correct. An temperature umm I dont have anything to tell me that. checking the weather though it's 18C outside and sunny. My room always gets hit by the sun in the afternoon and it gets really warm even though is cool outside. So I would estimate to be around 23C inside?


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Much better now. Can't say normal temps for a multiplier alone, it depends on what voltage you need. Depending on your luck with your particular chip you may be able to do 4.8 easily, or not at all. No one knows until you test it. Start with 4.5 at most, and follow the guide I linked before and you will be ok. As an example one chip did 4.7 at 1.35 and had max temps in the 88c range, those are pre delid temps. I would flash the bios in the first post linked below before starting your oc adventure, it should address the current bios bug.
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?31183-M5-1707-bioses


Thanks for everything dude! I'll follow the links you showed me and make sure I'm completely ready to start over clocking.


----------



## Tom Thumb

OK guys. I'm fully functional!!!







Finally got some pics.






Last shot through the window.



Gonna do some temp tests next. Idling at 29/30C right now. 3930k


----------



## Tom Thumb

IBT results on the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro @ 4.7ghz - 1.392v
Standard Test
74 70 73 72 72 74

IBT results on Swiftech h220 @ 4.7ghz - 1.392v
Standard Test
65 63 64 61 64 67


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> IBT results on the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro @ 4.7ghz - 1.392v
> Standard Test
> 74 70 73 72 72 74
> 
> IBT results on Swiftech h220 @ 4.7ghz - 1.392v
> Standard Test
> 65 63 64 61 64 67


an average 8.5 degrees Celcius is srs business between the two, how were the fan profiles set up on both tests.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> an average 8.5 degrees Celcius is srs business between the two, how were the fan profiles set up on both tests.


Profiles were both set on standard.


----------



## Rabid1

count me in


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Hey anyone know if the 2011 back plate of the apogee DII is the same as the 1155/1156? I might consider buying a AP2 but it comes with a 2011 socket my cpu is 1155. Someone is offering me one brand new fairly cheap. I looked at the pictures and 2011 looks the same as 1155 on swiftech website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/apogeedrive2.aspx
> 
> Worried with so many h220 failing pumps i might just cough up the extra cash and go full Custom.


LGA 2011 does not come with a backplate since it is built into the motherboard. Also the screws are different between LGA 2011 and LGA 1155. You can still buy the 1155 hardware and backplate from Swiftech's site if you need, or I can make a deal with you on the 1155 hardware and backplate I'm not using


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> I'm all paranoid now. I just drained my loop and disconnected the pump. Gonna try running the pump with the stock radiator and see if the sound is still there. Hopefully it's not damaged.


Success! Spent the last few hours putting the pump back on the stock radiator and bleeding. It's sounding like how it is when I tried it before draining. Is it safe to say that the pump is fine, and not damaged?

edit: tried, not fried.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Success! Spent the last few hours putting the pump back on the stock radiator and bleeding. It's sounding like how it is when I fried it before draining. Is it safe to say that the pump is fine, and not damaged?


Did you mean to type fried, or tried?


----------



## Rabid1

sorry but fried is way funny


----------



## Rabid1

Very nice job Tom Thumb


----------



## Nanolab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> OK guys. I'm fully functional!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got some pics.
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna do some temp tests next. Idling at 29/30C right now. 3930k


Looks great, very nice job Tom !

Having the same case, where did you put the PWM splitter ? I thought I can't put it on the backplate side of the case, would be great if you can upload an image of the back of your install...


----------



## BigMorgan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> does CorsairLink work without a CorsairLink controller (to actually control speeds not just monitor)? It doesnt seem like it can, but then again i only had 2 weeks with it.


Well Corsair's product page promises it can, don't want to get this offtopic though.

To bring it back to the H220, my motherboard only has a single PWM-control fan header. Rather than daisy-chaining all my case fans and the H220's pump to the same header and using SpeedFan to adjust noise/cooling, I'll use CorsairLink to control each.

Going to take some experimentation to see if it makes the most sense to leave the pump on the CPU_Fan header, the rad fans on it, or just shut off the alarm and run it all through CorsairLink. That's why I asked if anyone else had done it, yet.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigMorgan*
> 
> Well Corsair's product page promises it can, don't want to get this offtopic though.
> 
> To bring it back to the H220, my motherboard only has a single PWM-control fan header. Rather than daisy-chaining all my case fans and the H220's pump to the same header and using SpeedFan to adjust noise/cooling, I'll use CorsairLink to control each.
> 
> Going to take some experimentation to see if it makes the most sense to leave the pump on the CPU_Fan header, the rad fans on it, or just shut off the alarm and run it all through CorsairLink. That's why I asked if anyone else had done it, yet.


While I can get it to come up and run without, it can only monitor cpu,gpu,hdd temps. I don't get any control over motherboard fan headers. I may have control over the GPU fan speed manually, but that is it. In the end, not really any good for controlling anything but the corsair H100i pump fan controller. It probably work with one of those Corsair Link controllers as well for controller lighting and fan speeds through it, but I'm not seeing any means to control motherboard fan outputs on my ASRock MB.

Speedfan is the better tool for what you are thinking. Many of the motherboard headers do show up on speedfan.


----------



## witeboy07

Just ordered my 2nd 7970, By diamond, you guys think my H220 plus the extra 120mm frad be able to handle the temps? Or should I just keep the second one on air?I culd add an extra 120mm rad, but not a 220rad...case size lmit!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Just ordered my 2nd 7970, By diamond, you guys think my H220 plus the extra 120mm frad be able to handle the temps? Or should I just keep the second one on air?I culd add an extra 120mm rad, but not a 220rad...case size lmit!


That's going to depend on what your current load temps are and your ambient temperature. If your load temps are already near borderline then adding the second card will put too much heat into the loop for it to handle. On the other hand, if your load temps are currently really good, and you have good ambient temperature then you might be able to get another 7970 in there without much of an issue. Keep in mind though that summer is coming up, so if your ambient temperature is good now it might not be in a couple of weeks or so.


----------



## justanoldman

I know it depends on the setup, but if we have a 220 and 320 rad, or maybe two 220 rads, will it help to add a single 120mm or 140mm rad to the loop? This is assuming an oced chip and oced gpu in the loop.

I know another 220 or 320 rad will definitely help, I am just wondering if it makes any difference to throw in another small rad like a single 120 or 140, if you already have two bigger rads in the loop.


----------



## AdamMT

I would imagine that it's proportional, so a 240mm and a 120mm would be more or less equivalent to one 360mm, etc. That's assuming the different sizes are of comparable quality.


----------



## AdamMT

ack ... double post


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Did you mean to type fried, or tried?


Oops. I meant tried.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I would imagine that it's proportional, so a 240mm and a 120mm would be more or less equivalent to one 360mm, etc. That's assuming the different sizes are of comparable quality.


That's pretty much right. What you're doing is adding more surface area so there will be an improvement. That improvement though will be proportionate to the amount of surface area so long as the radiators are of the same quality.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rabid1*
> 
> Very nice job Tom Thumb


Thanks. Yours is looking good as well I must say!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nanolab*
> 
> Looks great, very nice job Tom !
> 
> Having the same case, where did you put the PWM splitter ? I thought I can't put it on the backplate side of the case, would be great if you can upload an image of the back of your install...


Splitter is on the back of the optical drive cage. There is more room back there.
Thank-You.


----------



## Strife21

Quick question I have a CM 690 II advanced. Trying decide to put this either at the bottom of the case pushing air through the radiator as in intake or putting at the top pushing air out the radiator as an exhaust. Not sure if I have enough room on the bottom yet so it might have to go on the top.

Do any of your vreg temps go up high after installing this cooler and not having a air cooler there? What do you think would provide the lower vreg temps having the h220 on top exhausting (push) or the h220 on top with the fans acting as an intake (push).

Trying to decide what would provide the best air flow.

Currently have 3 x AP-15 as my exhausts, one on back and 2 up top. Then I have 2 AP-15's as my intake, one on bottom and one on front.

So if I take the 2 AP-15's off the top to install the h220 trying to figure out if exhaust or intake would be the best course of action, while also keeping the vreg and gpu in check.


----------



## AdamMT

Swiftech recommends that in a top mount the fans should be set to intake to feed cooler air to the radiator. That also blows air across the VRM heatsinks. Even if it's warm air it's still better than the alternative. Also seems like you have negative case pressure which is bad for dust ingestion. Using the fans as intake would also help in that respect.


----------



## Klubhead

I have a half 932, should I set up my airflow:

Front - intake
Side - intake
Top (h220) - intake
Back - exhast

Or is that too many intakes?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BigMorgan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> While I can get it to come up and run without, it can only monitor cpu,gpu,hdd temps. I don't get any control over motherboard fan headers. I may have control over the GPU fan speed manually, but that is it. In the end, not really any good for controlling anything but the corsair H100i pump fan controller. It probably work with one of those Corsair Link controllers as well for controller lighting and fan speeds through it, but I'm not seeing any means to control motherboard fan outputs on my ASRock MB.
> 
> Speedfan is the better tool for what you are thinking. Many of the motherboard headers do show up on speedfan.


The kit I purchased includes a controller for 5 PWM devices. I passed on the LED kit.

I'm currently using SpeedFan to control a ghetto-rigged Xigmatek Gaia in push-pull with a 3rd fan in a behind-the-motherboard intake all daisy chained to the CPU fan header.

I will experiment when I get the rebuild done, (please please please let me get a H220 the day they hit MicroCenter and Newegg. PLEASE!







) but right now I imagine the best bet will be putting the rad fans on the CPU fan header as most everything else will be relative fixed to balance noise / case temps.

Can one of the Swiftech reps comment as to whether the other resellers (FrozenCPU, Sidewinder, etc.) will have new stock on April 1 too? It would be a cruel April Fool's Day trick if I can't find one anywhere in the next week! lol


----------



## BigMorgan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Swiftech recommends that in a top mount the fans should be set to intake to feed cooler air to the radiator. That also blows air across the VRM heatsinks. Even if it's warm air it's still better than the alternative. Also seems like you have negative case pressure which is bad for dust ingestion. Using the fans as intake would also help in that respect.


Even if you keep your case temps near ambient with sufficient intake in a positive-pressure thermal design?

Planning on running 3x 140mm intake 1x 140mm exhaust H220 exhaust in top mount all in a Fractal Arc Midi R2.

Most of the video reviews I've seen have put the H220 in an exhaust orientation in the top - to my understanding at least.


----------



## Deeya

How do these temps look for the voltage I need to hit 4.7Ghz on my 3570k?


----------



## ez12a

i put mine as intake for best temperatures in my setup. My reference 670 leaks a fair amount of warm air into the case via the SLI connector cutout so I'd rather get fresh cool air to the radiator immediately.

i believe in pushing cold air through radiators be it at the top or at the front, or the bottom of the computer. Why? Because that's one of the benefits of having a radiator. You can position rad closest to cold air, something you cant do with big air. A lot of big air proponents will say that's cheating--but how exactly? because they cant do it? lol









People always ask but why do that and increase in case temps and blow "hot" air over other components?

my answer: you're not blowing that much hot air into the case. (My 670 does more so), I have a rear exhaust fan pulling the air immediately as it comes through the radiator. Isnt this what big air is essentially? it's not like big air blows cold air towards your VRM anyway.


----------



## CTM Audi

Vid cards do run hotter when rad is an intake. Mine was around 7C warmer. Under load, there is a 1C CPU difference under full load between intake and exhaust with no other fans going aside from one 140mm rear exhaust at 650rpm.

Not worth it to me.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I was gonna put it on when it leaked. also the fins were bent and a fan was partially broken, but I cant prove anything )= What do I do? Im terrified :S Im ok with the other problems, but is it still usable and can I tighten it somehow?


All I can say: *OUCH!*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK guys. I'm fully functional!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got some pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last shot through the window.
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna do some temp tests next. Idling at 29/30C right now. 3930k


Congrats! The sexy wc loop you got there!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> All I can say: *OUCH!*
> Congrats! The sexy wc loop you got there!


Thanks. Much appreciated!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i put mine as intake for best temperatures in my setup. My reference 670 leaks a fair amount of warm air into the case via the SLI connector cutout so I'd rather get fresh cool air to the radiator immediately.
> 
> i believe in pushing cold air through radiators be it at the top or at the front, or the bottom of the computer. Why? Because that's one of the benefits of having a radiator. You can position rad closest to cold air, something you cant do with big air. A lot of big air proponents will say that's cheating--but how exactly? because they cant do it? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People always ask but why do that and increase in case temps and blow "hot" air over other components?
> 
> my answer: you're not blowing that much hot air into the case. (My 670 does more so), I have a rear exhaust fan pulling the air immediately as it comes through the radiator. Isnt this what big air is essentially? it's not like big air blows cold air towards your VRM anyway.


Yes I am a bit confused too








Putting a radiator as intake would mean it's intaking "cold air" while pulling dust&dirt into the case while blowing warm exhausted air from the radiator onto the rest of the components


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Vid cards do run hotter when rad is an intake. Mine was around 7C warmer. Under load, there is a 1C CPU difference under full load between intake and exhaust with no other fans going aside from one 140mm rear exhaust at 650rpm.
> 
> Not worth it to me.


All depends on your case/GPU. Intake on mine has less than a 1 degree difference on my GPU, which is getting air from two fans up front and a fan directly below it and it's a blower style.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Yes I am a bit confused too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Putting a radiator as intake would mean it's intaking "cold air" while pulling dust&dirt into the case while blowing warm exhausted air from the radiator onto the rest of the components


Again, depends on your case. I have dust filters on every intake fan on my case, and have almost no dust issues(and I live in Arizona, dust is a huge problem). The warm exhausted air probably isn't more than 2-3 degree's warmer than normal air, as far as I can tell. I can see why some people(especially those who don't have dust filters) would use the rad as exhaust, but my personal set up seems better off with intake.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I have a half 932, should I set up my airflow:
> 
> Front - intake
> Side - intake
> Top (h220) - intake
> Back - exhast
> 
> Or is that too many intakes?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


*Shameless bump* sorry, my post definitely got buried lol

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> *Shameless bump* sorry, my post definitely got buried lol
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Sounds right to me!
That's how I would set it up.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Ok guys. I did another run of IBT at very high settings. Things got a little warmer this time around. Ambient is 20C.
3930k @ 4.7ghz @ 1.392v ********** I'm not really sure if I need that much voltage for 4.7ghz, but that's what I'm using until I fine tune it.
By the way, my pump never got much higher than 2300rpm during this test. I thought it should have reached 3000rpm?
With the standard profile it is set to, I'm pretty sure it should have.......100% @ 70C..... Hmmmm, what's up with that?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Well. I don't know, but I just did a fan test with ASUS Fan Expert, and this is what I got on the Pump. So it looks good!



When I ran the IBT , I was using AIDA64 for monitoring fan speeds. Maybe it was reading the pump speed wrong. Will test again with IBT using ASUS Fan Expert.
I'm done for now though. Good night.


----------



## BigMorgan

Thanks for sharing the testing Tom. Your results are making me extremely impatient to get my hands on one.


----------



## ez12a

waiting for tax return and i'll probably be picking up white tubing, alphacool nexxxos st30 120mm, ek 670 copper waterblock, and swiftech comp fittings. I hope microcenter can get hydrx pm2 in store so I dont have to pay for shipping of just coolant...or maybe i'll use a different coolant.


----------



## saeteurnkl

Was so happy to finally get mine today after waiting on wait list from NCIX. Finally got mine today and installed it and was in middle of setting my pc up with drivers etc, since i just clean installed windows last night, after 5 minutes or so my pc shuts down unexpectedly. Turns out my pc was overheating and i didnt even get chance to test it. I really think my pump is dead as I don't hear any water. After watching other peoples installs it seems you hear a lot of water during first boot after install. I looked at my cpu and it now has a burn mark on the socket side and very worried the damage is more severe then i realize. Very discouraging day as I am just getting my video card back tomorrow that went bad a few weeks ago.









Swiched back to my h6o and pc is up and running. So something is definitely not working with the h220.


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> waiting for tax return and i'll probably be picking up white tubing, alphacool nexxxos st30 120mm, ek 670 copper waterblock, and swiftech comp fittings. I hope microcenter can get hydrx pm2 in store so I dont have to pay for shipping of just coolant...or maybe i'll use a different coolant.


Distilled Water will work, though you should add copper sulfate or a silver coil if you have either lying around I guess.


----------



## nagle3092

Your turn swiftech http://www.techpowerup.com/182088/EK-Water-Blocks-Announces-De-Lidded-Ivy-Bridge-CPU-Cooling-Solutions.html


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Well. I don't know, but I just did a fan test with ASUS Fan Expert, and this is what I got on the Pump. So it looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> When I ran the IBT , I was using AIDA64 for monitoring fan speeds. Maybe it was reading the pump speed wrong. Will test again with IBT using ASUS Fan Expert.
> I'm done for now though. Good night.


Your temps look about right to me. I think you weren't getting full pump/fan speed because the cpu temp that Fan Xpert is using is not the cpu core temperature(s) but rather the temperature sensor on (or around) the cpu. So in my case, if the core temps are hitting the low 70s, the cpu sensor generally doesn't get above the low 60s.

What I did was set up a user curve for cpu with the pump/fans set to hit maximum power when the cpu temp hits 45C. So it's a pretty quick ramp up from a quiet setting at idle/normal operation to full power at full load.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Your temps look about right to me. I think you weren't getting full pump/fan speed because the cpu temp that Fan Xpert is using is not the cpu core temperature(s) but rather the temperature sensor on (or around) the cpu. So in my case, if the core temps are hitting the low 70s, the cpu sensor generally doesn't get above the low 60s.
> 
> What I did was set up a user curve for cpu with the pump/fans set to hit maximum power when the cpu temp hits 45C. So it's a pretty quick ramp up from a quiet setting at idle/normal operation to full power at full load.


Thanks. I'll look into it.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Your turn swiftech http://www.techpowerup.com/182088/EK-Water-Blocks-Announces-De-Lidded-Ivy-Bridge-CPU-Cooling-Solutions.html


lol I see what you did there









I would love to see something like this from swiftech, but to be honest, I'm not sure I would want to put the h220 direct to die.. with the IHS there is definitely some leeway for slight vibrations to be absorbed by something, direct to die, I'm not sure I would like putting a variable speed pump directly on very brittle silicon. If I was using a MCP655 or something.. that would be a different story entirely though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Well. I don't know, but I just did a fan test with ASUS Fan Expert, and this is what I got on the Pump. So it looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> When I ran the IBT , I was using AIDA64 for monitoring fan speeds. Maybe it was reading the pump speed wrong. Will test again with IBT using ASUS Fan Expert.
> I'm done for now though. Good night.


I wouldn't worry about it.. to be honest I would find a quiet just fast enough pump speed and leave it there. Flow rate doesn't really effect temperatures from all that I have read on water cooling. I mean, maybe 1C difference from sufficient flow to max flow in the charts, so why bother? The real thing to have controlled by PWM and temps is the fans on the radiators if you aren't going the "silent one speed" approach. Those spinning up faster will definitely decrease your temps.


----------



## Tom Thumb

So after playing with Fan Expert a bit, it appears there is about a 20c difference between the core temp, and the cpu temp. According to Fan Expert.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> So after playing with Fan Expert a bit, it appears there is about a 20c difference between the core temp, and the cpu temp. According to Fan Expert.


That's probably correct, as I think the cpu temp is reported by a sensor mounted under the cpu which isn't going to get as hot as the processor's internals.


----------



## justanoldman

When expanding the H220, we need to empty it obviously, and people have noted that some residue comes out. Should we go to the trouble of trying to run distilled water through the system to flush out anything, before hooking it back up and filling with coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saeteurnkl*
> 
> Was so happy to finally get mine today after waiting on wait list from NCIX. Finally got mine today and installed it and was in middle of setting my pc up with drivers etc, since i just clean installed windows last night, after 5 minutes or so my pc shuts down unexpectedly. Turns out my pc was overheating and i didnt even get chance to test it. I really think my pump is dead as I don't hear any water. After watching other peoples installs it seems you hear a lot of water during first boot after install. I looked at my cpu and it now has a burn mark on the socket side and very worried the damage is more severe then i realize. Very discouraging day as I am just getting my video card back tomorrow that went bad a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiched back to my h6o and pc is up and running. So something is definitely not working with the h220.


Sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> When expanding the H220, we need to empty it obviously, and people have noted that some residue comes out. Should we go to the trouble of trying to run distilled water through the system to flush out anything, before hooking it back up and filling with coolant?


I emptied mine out and noticed no residue, so I just put the loop back together with the new tubing and off I went.

It can't hurt to clean it, but I'm not entirely sure its necessary.


----------



## mojojj31

Finished my loop in the FT03


^ Here's the loop setup that _didn't_ work, the one I used when I posted about the pump noise problems earlier.


^ Here's how it looks now, redesigned so that the top rad goes into the pump's inlet. All seems good now.

*CPU: 60 deg*
*GPU: 49 deg*
*Pump speed: 1600 RPM*

3570K @ 3.8Ghz, 7950 @ stock. Running Prime95 and Heaven 4.0 for 1 hour. No overclocks yet.

The pump is almost inaudible at 1600 RPM. At 3000 RPM (max speed), it produces a pretty loud buzz from the motor and there's definitely heavy vibration from the block being hard mounted. Overall I'm pretty impressed with the pump. Definitely use the PWM. It's been running for the last day and a bit.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Finished my loop in the FT03
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Here's the loop setup that _didn't_ work, the one I used when I posted about the pump noise problems earlier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Here's how it looks now, redesigned so that the top rad goes into the pump's inlet. All seems good now.
> 
> *CPU: 60 deg*
> *GPU: 49 deg*
> *Pump speed: 1600 RPM*
> 
> 3570K @ 3.8Ghz, 7950 @ stock. Running Prime95 and Heaven 4.0 for 1 hour. No overclocks yet.
> 
> The pump is almost inaudible at 1600 RPM. At 3000 RPM (max speed), it produces a pretty loud buzz from the motor and there's definitely heavy vibration from the block being hard mounted. Overall I'm pretty impressed with the pump. Definitely use the PWM. It's been running for the last day and a bit.


My pump makes that loud buzzing noise at all RPM's. Quite annoying! Nice build.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Finished my loop in the FT03
> 
> 
> ^ Here's the loop setup that _didn't_ work, the one I used when I posted about the pump noise problems earlier.
> 
> 
> ^ Here's how it looks now, redesigned so that the top rad goes into the pump's inlet. All seems good now.
> 
> *CPU: 60 deg*
> *GPU: 49 deg*
> *Pump speed: 1600 RPM*
> 
> 3570K @ 3.8Ghz, 7950 @ stock. Running Prime95 and Heaven 4.0 for 1 hour. No overclocks yet.
> 
> The pump is almost inaudible at 1600 RPM. At 3000 RPM (max speed), it produces a pretty loud buzz from the motor and there's definitely heavy vibration from the block being hard mounted. Overall I'm pretty impressed with the pump. Definitely use the PWM. It's been running for the last day and a bit.


That is one wild looking build! Great job! You really stuffed that case though. Your temps look good too.


----------



## AdamMT

Wow, that is one teeny tiny case. Great job cramming it all in there!


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is one wild looking build! Great job! You really stuffed that case though. Your temps look good too.


Thanks! And I really appreciated your help with my pump troubles.

I do like my original plan better though (the first pic), it looks cleaner and the tube runs were smarter. I think I will go back to it eventually. After talking to a bunch of people I realized that there probably wasn't enough water pressure into the pump inlet to prime properly. I'll have to go buy more tubing, a quick disconnect, and a big bucket I can use as a fill reservoir.

For now though I'm letting my arms take a break, and I'm going to enjoy a little gaming.


----------



## TechSilver13

Had my h220 for about 3 weeks, the pump died in the middle of the night...bummed. RMA time. Just thought I'd share.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Had my h220 for about 3 weeks, the pump died in the middle of the night...bummed. RMA time. Just thought I'd share.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Sent you a PM. I'm sorry to hear about your pump dying and we'll do what we can to make it right.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> When expanding the H220, we need to empty it obviously, and people have noted that some residue comes out. Should we go to the trouble of trying to run distilled water through the system to flush out anything, before hooking it back up and filling with coolant?


That's the problem we are finding in over 70% of the returns we've received to date. We've addressed the issue for the upcoming and all future productions batches, adding filters everywhere, flushing, extra precautions preparing coolant, etc etc...What happens is that when a debris gets stuck in the impeller cavity (in the bearing or in between magnet and impeller cavity walls), the impeller can't spin freely, and we have an electronic protection that tells the motor to shut down when impeller doesn't run freely. So you get a seemingly dead pump.. When we clean it up, it goes back to work. We don't think that this is a wide spread issue, and this is covered by our warranty anyways. But if you are expanding the loop, I'd say go ahead and flush it for 20 minutes with distilled, it's a safe procedure anyways.


----------



## Klubhead

Quick test, installation tomorrow morning


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Had my h220 for about 3 weeks, the pump died in the middle of the night...bummed. RMA time. Just thought I'd share.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Very sorry to hear that. I wonder what the numbers are for returned units out of all units sold to date?
Swiftech will take care of you, but it still sucks.
Now I'm wondering if I should take mine apart and flush it out.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Some new numbers for you. 4.8ghz @ max V-core of 1.424 @ max temp. of 78C running IBT on very high. Ambient of 20C.








By the way. Enabling CPU spread spectrum made a world of difference.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That's the problem we are finding in over 70% of the returns we've received to date. We've addressed the issue for the upcoming and all future productions batches, adding filters everywhere, flushing, extra precautions preparing coolant, etc etc...What happens is that when a debris gets stuck in the impeller cavity (in the bearing or in between magnet and impeller cavity walls), the impeller can't spin freely, and we have an electronic protection that tells the motor to shut down when impeller doesn't run freely. So you get a seemingly dead pump.. When we clean it up, it goes back to work. We don't think that this is a wide spread issue, and this is covered by our warranty anyways. But if you are expanding the loop, I'd say go ahead and flush it for 20 minutes with distilled, it's a safe procedure anyways.


Thanks a lot for the info.
Never done this before. Watched Bryan's video, but could you guys give me some tips/instructions on how best to "flush it for 20 minutes"?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the info.
> Never done this before. Watched Bryan's video, but could you guys give me some tips/instructions on how best to "flush it for 20 minutes"?


To flush it all you would need to do is follow our instructions for filling and priming the kit. You'll just use distilled water instead of the HydrX PM2 coolant. Let it run for about 20 minutes and then dump it out. Make sure you dump it into a container so that you can check it for debris. Once you think that you've gotten everything out of it then just fill with coolant again and re-install it. If you find some debris then re-fill the unit with more distilled water and start the 20 minute process again. Do this until you no longer see anything in your fluid when you drain it.


----------



## ez12a

so i just splurged on the extra gear I mentioned earlier: EK 670 copper block, kill coil, xspc white tubing, swiftech comp fittings, and a the alphacool st30 120mm radiator.

Did a "test fit" with my old h50 to see if i had enough room..looks like I do. Plan on doing a 120mm radiator in push exhaust config. I'll let you guys know how it goes. *crosses fingers*

i will probably flush the h220 rad out while i have everything apart too.

this would be my first "custom" loop ever. Should be interesting lol


----------



## Pure2sin

Should the hoses be the same length with every kit?

For some reason the 2nd kit I got, one of the hoses is shorter?

Also just wondering if when someone RMAs a kit do you send out a brand new kit or are you sending out refurbs already?


----------



## witeboy07

Currently my load temps on my temp monitors max out at normal use 40c on both sensors, gpu and cpu, my ambient temp here in my room is about 35c maybe. So i think im good, since my hard tile floor is always cold and thats where my tower is at.


----------



## AdamMT

Your room is 95F? Where do you live, Death Valley?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Your room is 95F? Where do you live, Death Valley?


95F is moderately common in places far from a large body of water like an ocean. People really underestimate how much water can affect weather. Its one of the reasons why nearly every large city is near the water(and in the U.S, the most populous states are near water). Its just a great temperature controller. 95F is any inland area on a pretty hot day.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witeboy07*
> 
> Currently my load temps on my temp monitors max out at normal use 40c on both sensors, gpu and cpu, my ambient temp here in my room is about 35c maybe. So i think im good, since my hard tile floor is always cold and thats where my tower is at.


Turn the furnace down man!!!!!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Should the hoses be the same length with every kit?
> 
> For some reason the 2nd kit I got, one of the hoses is shorter?
> 
> Also just wondering if when someone RMAs a kit do you send out a brand new kit or are you sending out refurbs already?


We're sending out brand new kits that have been tested by myself and Stephen before they're shipped.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're sending out brand new kits that have been tested by myself and Stephen before they're shipped.


Mind sending one my way??


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Turn the furnace down man!!!!!!!


Sorry guys, lol, I meant to say 35F not C...lol


----------



## witeboy07

Maybe more like between 15c to 20c..


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're sending out brand new kits that have been tested by myself and Stephen before they're shipped.


Good to hear. It really has no performance effect on anything but it's odd that one hose is shorter than the kit I had before. O well!


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 95F is moderately common in places far from a large body of water like an ocean. People really underestimate how much water can affect weather. Its one of the reasons why nearly every large city is near the water(and in the U.S, the most populous states are near water). Its just a great temperature controller. 95F is any inland area on a pretty hot day.


Well yeah ... in the summer ... outside ... and not that common, at least in North America and Europe. But I'm thinking, if you're computer room is 95F, you'd probably get more bang for your buck buying a window AC unit than spending it on a water cooling rig. And you'd be a lot more comfortable in the bargain.


----------



## justanoldman

I just figured out that Swiftech fittings are not compatible with Primochill tubing. What Primochill calls 3/8-5/8 is not what Swiftech calls it. Anyone know what tubing does work with Swiftech fittings or what fittings work with Primochill tubing?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I just figured out that Swiftech fittings are not compatible with Primochill tubing. What Primochill calls 3/8-5/8 is not what Swiftech calls it. Anyone know what tubing does work with Swiftech fittings or what fittings work with Primochill tubing?


i ordered some XSPC tubing and swiftech fittings. hopefully they'll come this week and i'll let you know.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I just figured out that Swiftech fittings are not compatible with Primochill tubing. What Primochill calls 3/8-5/8 is not what Swiftech calls it. Anyone know what tubing does work with Swiftech fittings or what fittings work with Primochill tubing?


I grabbed that danger den kit on FCPU the black.. ish tubing. It was a bit of a pain, but what I did was dropped the end of the tub into some hot water before I tried to use the tubing. It wasn't easy to screw on the fitting either, but I used a wrench and all was good.

You could try the hot water on your tubing first before you buy something else...


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i ordered some XSPC tubing and swiftech fittings. hopefully they'll come this week and i'll let you know.


This is what I used. Fits good!


----------



## justanoldman

I am trying to use the Swiftech Lok-seal compression fittings like the one used in their expansion video on the graphics card. The problem is not getting the tubing on the barb, the problem is that Primochill tubing has a larger outside diameter than the Swiftech tubing. You can't get the collet on, at least no without really forcing it. It is easy to see the size difference in tubing, you just take a loose collet and slide it along the Swiftech tubing and the Primochill tubing, there is an obvious difference in size.

Seems strange that one company's 5/8 of an inch is not the same 5/8 as another company.

The threads of the Lok-seal fittings are fragile, so if you end up accidentally tightening them while trying to get the collet on, you end up with a ripped apart fitting. You can see that the collet isn't even that far on the fitting:


----------



## witeboy07

I went ahead and retested all my temps again. I did a cpu and gpu stress test at the same time running. The cpu topped out at 51°c and my 7970 @ 46°c. Seems like good numbers to me. Currently my house temp is about 74°f.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## witeboy07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I am trying to use the Swiftech Lok-seal compression fittings like the one used in their expansion video on the graphics card. The problem is not getting the tubing on the barb, the problem is that Primochill tubing has a larger outside diameter than the Swiftech tubing. You can't get the collet on, at least no without really forcing it. It is easy to see the size difference in tubing, you just take a loose collet and slide it along the Swiftech tubing and the Primochill tubing, there is an obvious difference in size.
> 
> Seems strange that one company's 5/8 of an inch is not the same 5/8 as another company.
> 
> The threads of the Lok-seal fittings are fragile, so if you end up accidentally tightening them while trying to get the collet on, you end up with a ripped apart fitting. You can see that the collet isn't even that far on the fitting:


I had that same problem so I went with barbs, sends like that tubing is much thicker.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Shwingdom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I just figured out that Swiftech fittings are not compatible with Primochill tubing.


I had the SAME problem, I ended up getting XPSC and it works perfect with swiftech fittings and the barbs on the pump/rad.


----------



## MiwaPi

Damnit, I just bought the same lok-seal compression fittings and my primochill tubing just arrived. I guess i'll have to see about returning it.


----------



## ElMagoFrank

Looks like I'm one of the unlucky ones; The pump stopped working on my kit earlier today. Came home to a blue screen and was at first suspecting memory, but when I managed to get windows to load (a few more blue screens later), I turned on RealTemp to see the idle temperatures at 65C. While the computer finished booting I saw the temperatures climb to 89C during just normal startup load. I opened up the case and did not hear any water noises. Unfortunately for now I am back to my Zalman air cooler while I get this sorted out with Swiftech's customer service.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElMagoFrank*
> 
> Looks like I'm one of the unlucky ones; The pump stopped working on my kit earlier today. Came home to a blue screen and was at first suspecting memory, but when I managed to get windows to load (a few more blue screens later), I turned on RealTemp to see the idle temperatures at 65C. While the computer finished booting I saw the temperatures climb to 89C during just normal startup load. I opened up the case and did not hear any water noises. Unfortunately for now I am back to my Zalman air cooler while I get this sorted out with Swiftech's customer service.


NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Avonosac

Fret not, tis nothing but a slight inconvenience because Bryan, stephen and the rest have been on the ball for any issues with these first released units.


----------



## justanoldman

^^Agree completely, they mailed out something to me the same day I talked to them. So far I am impressed with their service, and I hate to say it but I am already starting to think about a custom (and unfortunately more expensive) setup next time. They have done their job with the H220 in getting me a lot more interested in water cooling my rig.

Got the video card ready for the H220 expansion, just waiting for another piece and should be ready to do it next week:


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> ^^Agree completely, they mailed out something to me the same day I talked to them. So far I am impressed with their service, and I hate to say it but I am already starting to think about a custom (and unfortunately more expensive) setup next time. They have done their job with the H220 in getting me a lot more interested in water cooling my rig.
> 
> Got the video card ready for the H220 expansion, just waiting for another piece and should be ready to do it next week:


One thing i noticed regarding the EK blocks until it was a little too late, is that they dont have multiple ports. I ended up buying swiftech 90 degree swivel elbows to bring the tubing "up" to above the card (going to use the EK Link block) so I dont have to run excessively long tubing.

That is unless you plan on having tubing go around and under or to the side with the EK link block.

imo an inconvenience, but i like the minimalist looks of ek blocks (maybe cause i'm a Mac owner lawl). I dont care too much for the heatkiller.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> One thing i noticed regarding the EK blocks until it was a little too late, is that they dont have multiple ports. I ended up buying swiftech 90 degree swivel elbows to bring the tubing "up" to above the card (going to use the EK Link block) so I dont have to run excessively long tubing.
> 
> That is unless you plan on having tubing go around and under or to the side with the EK link block.
> 
> imo an inconvenience, but i like the minimalist looks of ek blocks (maybe cause i'm a Mac owner lawl). I dont care too much for the heatkiller.


Not sure how I will have it in the end. If I use the included EK link block the fittings stick straight out, if you don't they point down which is good for continuing the loop to the bottom rad, but not good for going from the cpu to the video card.

So use the link, both fittings stick out which means your tubing will be pushed toward your side panel, or like you said the cpu to gpu tube has to go around and under the card. What do most people do?


----------



## BradleyW

I cannot seem to find this h220 in the uk. Can anyone help? Or at least, are there any custom cooling kits that outperform the h220 which are under the 140 mark?
Cheers.


----------



## Kelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I cannot seem to find this h220 in the uk. Can anyone help? Or at least, are there any custom cooling kits that outperform the h220 which are under the 140 mark?
> Cheers.


The XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 WaterCooling Kit V4 is probably the closest to what you're looking for. Can be had for around £140 but doesn't come with any fluids.

Good review here, seems to be around the same performance as the \h220.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/16/xspc-raystorm-750-rs240-extreme-universal-cpu-water-cooling-kit/


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelt*
> 
> The XSPC RayStorm 750 RS240 WaterCooling Kit V4 is probably the closest to what you're looking for. Can be had for around £140 but doesn't come with any fluids.
> 
> Good review here, seems to be around the same performance as the \h220.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/16/xspc-raystorm-750-rs240-extreme-universal-cpu-water-cooling-kit/


Thank you. I also noticed swiftech have a h200 edge edition which is also a h220 but more custom. Also, what fluid do I need with the xpsc? I'm new to custom WC.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Not sure how I will have it in the end. If I use the included EK link block the fittings stick straight out, if you don't they point down which is good for continuing the loop to the bottom rad, but not good for going from the cpu to the video card.
> 
> So use the link, both fittings stick out which means your tubing will be pushed toward your side panel, or like you said the cpu to gpu tube has to go around and under the card. What do most people do?


Ah i see you're going with a bottom mounted rad. I would think to get that proper angle they would use 90 deg swivels to get the tubing pointed in the right direction. Not sure though, this is my first "custom" loop.

Question for swiftech: Can the tubes on the radiator be reversed (i.e. reversing the factory flow through the rad) without problems? I'll probably figure this out eventually when i have the kit disassembled to flush the rad, but just for the official word. I will probably want to reverse the flow when flushing to dislodge any bits inside that might've gotten stuck.


----------



## Kelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thank you. I also noticed swiftech have a h200 edge edition which is also a h220 but more custom. Also, what fluid do I need with the xpsc? I'm new to custom WC.


I'd be looking at Mayhems personally, probably pastel.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelt*
> 
> I'd be looking at Mayhems personally, probably pastel.


Right, sounds good thanks.
Also, off chance, do you know if 40c is too hot the corsair h100i's water temperature?


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thank you. I also noticed swiftech have a h200 edge edition which is also a h220 but more custom. Also, what fluid do I need with the xpsc? I'm new to custom WC.


The edge series is a totally different pump.Edge Elite series comes with Apogee drive 2 pump(MCP35x). The h220 is swiftech's in house pump.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> The edge series is a totally different pump.Elite series comes with Apogee drive 2 pump. The h220 is swiftech's in house pump.


What do you mean by In house pump?
Cheers.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What do you mean by In house pump?
> Cheers.


pump is designed by themselves.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> pump is designed by themselves.


I see.
I've been looking at several reviews and they all seem to conflict. Some have the h100i and H220 with 1c difference on medium fan speeds and others have them at 10c apart. What's your view on this?
Thank you.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I see.
> I've been looking at several reviews and they all seem to conflict. Some have the h100i and H220 with 1c difference on medium fan speeds and others have them at 10c apart. What's your view on this?
> Thank you.


When I tested both they were very close in cpu cooling performance, with the H220 being quieter since the stock Corsair fans are not known for being quiet. If someone has them 10c apart they did not test them very well.
If you never plan to change anything, tubing, coolant, add a rad, cool a gpu, etc. then the H100i is a viable alternative. If, however, you want to make any changes or cool your gpu then the H220 is the way to go.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> When I tested both they were very close in cpu cooling performance, with the H220 being quieter since the stock Corsair fans are not known for being quiet. If someone has them 10c apart they did not test them very well.
> If you never plan to change anything, tubing, coolant, add a rad, cool a gpu, etc. then the H100i is a viable alternative. If, however, you want to make any changes or cool your gpu then the H220 is the way to go.


Thank you very much for your help so far.
Could I ask you one last thing? I am wondering whether or not to get my H100i replaced for another, or to replace it for a H220.
Here are my temps during a test.
H100i Temp = 45c
Pump = 2130 RPM
i7 3930K 3.8GHz HT Turbo
V-core 1.3v (To increase heat)
Ambient 20c
Fan speed medium (Push/Pull)
Rad outside of case
Highest core temp 72c
Average CPU temp 67c

Time to RMA or are these temps normal?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thank you very much for your help so far.
> Could I ask you one last thing? I am wondering whether or not to get my H100i replaced for another, or to replace it for a H220.
> Here are my temps during a test.
> H100i Temp = 45c
> Pump = 2130 RPM
> i7 3930K 3.8GHz HT Turbo
> V-core 1.3v (To increase heat)
> Ambient 20c
> Fan speed medium (Push/Pull)
> Rad outside of case
> Highest core temp 72c
> Average CPU temp 67c
> 
> Time to RMA or are these temps normal?


If you had an Ivy chip I could tell you pretty much exactly what your temps should be, but I don't know what temps a 3930k should be.

Before delidding with a 4.7 oc using 1.35v I hit 88c max core temp on a 12 hour Prime95 run in a 23c or so room with my H100i.

If you want to expand the unit at all, then switching to a H220 is what I would do. Someone in the Hydro series club with your chip and the H100i could tell you better about your temps:
http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I see.
> I've been looking at several reviews and they all seem to conflict. Some have the h100i and H220 with 1c difference on medium fan speeds and others have them at 10c apart. What's your view on this?
> Thank you.


I think you saw the TTL review and possibly Linus since that is were most of the people go look at reviews on youtube!TTL seemed very biaseds against the product. Linus incorrectly tested the h220 and he later said he will retest the h220. I personally don't have a h220. I am waiting for the h320 with sata cables.


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> I am waiting for the h320 with sata cables.


+1


----------



## Martinm210

FYI,
Here is my little quick pump noise testing on my test bench using my iphone. I only got about 2-3dBA over ambient noise levels which is pretty good so I can only assume it probably has a lot to do with the case being used as well as the motherboard. I'll have to do a better test when mounted to the motherboard, but here is a quicky I did when testing pumping power.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> I think you saw the TTL review and possibly Linus since that is were most of the people go look at reviews on youtube!TTL seemed very biaseds against the product. Linus incorrectly tested the h220 and he later said he will retest the h220. I personally don't have a h220. I am waiting for the h320 with sata cables.


How much better could the H320 possibly be I wonder?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How much better could the H320 possibly be I wonder?


About 120mm in additional rad space better.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> About 120mm in additional rad space better.


360 Rad?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 360 Rad?


Yes, the difference between the H220 and H320 is the 320-QP base radiator, and the 4 pin connector will be sata powered, not molex which is awesome.

Actually, I don't want to put words in Swiftechs mouth, but I'm fairly certain I read that going forward even the H220 will be packaged with the new SATA powered PWM splitter when they run out of their current MOLEX stock.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Yes, the difference between the H220 and H320 is the 320-QP base radiator, and the 4 pin connector will be sata powered, not molex which is awesome.
> 
> Actually, I don't want to put words in Swiftechs mouth, but I'm fairly certain I read that going forward even the H220 will be packaged with the new SATA powered PWM splitter when they run out of their current MOLEX stock.


Sounds good, but it will be limited to certain users only as many cases can't support the size.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElMagoFrank*
> 
> Looks like I'm one of the unlucky ones; The pump stopped working on my kit earlier today. Came home to a blue screen and was at first suspecting memory, but when I managed to get windows to load (a few more blue screens later), I turned on RealTemp to see the idle temperatures at 65C. While the computer finished booting I saw the temperatures climb to 89C during just normal startup load. I opened up the case and did not hear any water noises. Unfortunately for now I am back to my Zalman air cooler while I get this sorted out with Swiftech's customer service.


I'm sorry to hear about this and I think you've already emailed us. Just answer the question that I sent you in my email response and note that I've already approved your RMA request. Please call us soon so that we can finalize your RMA and get your replacement sent to you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Ah i see you're going with a bottom mounted rad. I would think to get that proper angle they would use 90 deg swivels to get the tubing pointed in the right direction. Not sure though, this is my first "custom" loop.
> 
> Question for swiftech: Can the tubes on the radiator be reversed (i.e. reversing the factory flow through the rad) without problems? I'll probably figure this out eventually when i have the kit disassembled to flush the rad, but just for the official word. I will probably want to reverse the flow when flushing to dislodge any bits inside that might've gotten stuck.


I'll pass this along to Stephen this morning, but I don't see there being any issue with reversing the flow in the radiator. Let me know if you need any advice on how to flush it.


----------



## justanoldman

Bryan,
In your expansion video on the website you mention having the pump at the lowest point when trying to bleed it. I will have your 320 rad with res at the top of the case, and the stock H220 rad with res at the bottom of the case when installed.

When I am trying to bleed the loop outside the case, with the two rads, gpu, and pump, should I still have the pump below all the other parts when I try to get the air out? Also it is better or worse to leave the fill port open when letting the pump run for while in the bleeding process?

Any tips you can give us water newbs as to flushing, filling, and bleeding are always appreciated.


----------



## Klubhead

I'm in!




Rather than shortening the tubing, I flipped the pump, is that bad or doesn't matter?


----------



## SDBolts619

Interesting to hear from Bryan about the cause for most of the pump failures.

When I received my replacement unit, I shortened up the tubing and as part of the process, drained the system. Before I put the coolant back in, I ran it through a simple chef's strainer and came away with some debris as well. However, I didn't fully flush the system. I guess I can either take the system out and do a full flush again or hope that I got the majority of debris out when I drained it... Hmmm, how lazy do I want to be?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'm in!
> Rather than shortening the tubing, I flipped the pump, is that bad or doesn't matter?


That shouldn't matter.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Bryan,
> In your expansion video on the website you mention having the pump at the lowest point when trying to bleed it. I will have your 320 rad with res at the top of the case, and the stock H220 rad with res at the bottom of the case when installed.
> 
> When I am trying to bleed the loop outside the case, with the two rads, gpu, and pump, should I still have the pump below all the other parts when I try to get the air out? Also it is better or worse to leave the fill port open when letting the pump run for while in the bleeding process?
> 
> Any tips you can give us water newbs as to flushing, filling, and bleeding are always appreciated.


If your upper radiator has a reservoir then I would just keep that one above the pump and leave its fill port open while bleeding. It helps to leave this fill port open while bleeding so that it will allow the trapped air to escape.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That shouldn't matter.


Awesome, thanks for the quick reply


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Interesting to hear from Bryan about the cause for most of the pump failures.
> 
> When I received my replacement unit, I shortened up the tubing and as part of the process, drained the system. Before I put the coolant back in, I ran it through a simple chef's strainer and came away with some debris as well. However, I didn't fully flush the system. I guess I can either take the system out and do a full flush again or hope that I got the majority of debris out when I drained it... Hmmm, how lazy do I want to be?


As Gabe mentioned previously, we're finding that about 70% of the defective units appear to be failing due to debris getting trapped in the pump and thus preventing it from operating.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As Gabe mentioned previously, we're finding that about 70% of the defective units appear to be failing due to debris getting trapped in the pump and thus preventing it from operating.


Hmm, what about the other 30%?


----------



## justanoldman

Any of you guys with an H220 who have ever used water cooling tubing before: is there any tubing out there that is as flexible as the H220 stock tubing?

I posted before my problems with PrimoChill and fittings, but I found it is also a lot stiffer and harder to work with than the stock H220 black tubing. Just wondering if any of you with experience can tell me if there is other more flexible tubing like the H220 out there.

Also does more flexible mean any less flow, as in it is tradeoff some kind, easier to bend and work with but slightly less performance?


----------



## BradleyW

Where have all the H220's gone?
Not a single one in stock in the UK at all.


----------



## ElMagoFrank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about this and I think you've already emailed us. Just answer the question that I sent you in my email response and note that I've already approved your RMA request. Please call us soon so that we can finalize your RMA and get your replacement sent to you.


Thanks Bryan for the quick handling of my issue.


----------



## Strife21

Id rather use my gentle typhoons as the fans for the radiator and control them with my fan controller. If I did that do I still need to use the splitter to power the pump or can I connect the pump directly to my cpu pwm motherboard header and not use the splitter?

Not sure if this would draw more power then the header could provide


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strife21*
> 
> Id rather use my gentle typhoons as the fans for the radiator and control them with my fan controller. If I did that do I still need to use the splitter to power the pump or can I connect the pump directly to my cpu pwm motherboard header and not use the splitter?
> 
> Not sure if this would draw more power then the header could provide


you dont have to use the splitter at all if you dont plan on using their fans. Connecting it to your mobo header directly is fine as long as it can support at least 0.5A and is not voltage controlled (some PWM headers can be switched to modulation by voltage or PWM, like my old gigabyte board). You will need to look at your motherboard manual for specifics.

I have my pump running directly off the PWM header on my motherboard. My P8Z68 is capable of up to 1A.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Where have all the H220's gone?
> Not a single one in stock in the UK at all.


Probably due to the interruption in production from moving to a larger manufacturing facility in China.


----------



## Strife21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you dont have to use the splitter at all if you dont plan on using their fans. Connecting it to your mobo header directly is fine as long as it can support at least 0.5A and is not voltage controlled (some PWM headers can be switched to modulation by voltage or PWM, like my old gigabyte board). You will need to look at your motherboard manual for specifics.
> 
> I have my pump running directly off the PWM header on my motherboard. My P8Z68 is capable of up to 1A.[/quote
> 
> My motherboard fan headers support 1A so I should be ok in that respect. I believe the CPU header I have is PWM only, currently I have a a 3 pin fan plugged into it and it will only run at max speed even if I try and adjust it. The only way to adjust it is to plug in a 4 pin PWM fan then it will let me change speeds.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

It seems that my pump is failing as well. I thought it was a power issue since I had the pump powered by my mobo, so I swapped back to the splitter a couple days ago and it seemed good. But now it failed during gaming again and I can't get it to spin while my psu is jumped.

I'll see about flushing it to move any debris that may be clogging the pump...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> It seems that my pump is failing as well. I thought it was a power issue since I had the pump powered by my mobo, so I swapped back to the splitter a couple days ago and it seemed good. But now it failed during gaming again and I can't get it to spin while my psu is jumped.
> 
> I'll see about flushing it to move any debris that may be clogging the pump...


Please let us know how that goes. I have been wondering if people with pump issues could resolve them by flushing the system of any possible debris.

Just be careful when taking the tube off the swivel fittings like Bryan shows in the video. They can be damaged if you put pressure on them. I think you just need to make sure to support the fitting so it is not stressed when you take the tubing off or put it on.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

I'm thinking it may not be debris. Every time it has failed I have let it cool down and then the pump works again. Also, this ONLY happens when I am playing Battlefield 3. I think there is a correlation between pump speeds and load/heat (GPU is in the loop). Maybe I have to adjust my fan curve in SpeedFan. I will try gaming with the pump at full speed and see if it fails.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Please let us know how that goes. I have been wondering if people with pump issues could resolve them by flushing the system of any possible debris.
> 
> Just be careful when taking the tube off the swivel fittings like Bryan shows in the video. They can be damaged if you put pressure on them. I think you just need to make sure to support the fitting so it is not stressed when you take the tubing off or put it on.


Yeah I noticed the swivel fittings need some care after I opened my loop, I'll be careful If I choose to flush it. I'm not so stoked on doing it since I have not opened the loop since I have added my GPU. I might wait until my Komodo block arrives so I can kill multiple birds with a single stone...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> I'm thinking it may not be debris. Every time it has failed I have let it cool down and then the pump works again. Also, this ONLY happens when I am playing Battlefield 3. I think there is a correlation between pump speeds and load/heat (GPU is in the loop). Maybe I have to adjust my fan curve in SpeedFan. I will try gaming with the pump at full speed and see if it fails.
> Yeah I noticed the swivel fittings need some care after I opened my loop, I'll be careful If I choose to flush it. I'm not so stoked on doing it since I have not opened the loop since I have added my GPU. I might wait until my Komodo block arrives so I can kill multiple birds with a single stone...


Keep me posted on how it goes and let me know if you need any assistance from us.


----------



## navit

Been checking the egg and micro, still no sign of them on 4-1-13,


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Been checking the egg and micro, still no sign of them on 4-1-13,


Xoxide had them for 140


----------



## navit

Yep that would be had..........


----------



## Phelan

Just a follow up on one of my previous posts, the g1/4" arms on the Apogee Drive II will NOT fit on the H220 :/. They are so close to fitting, but the O ring groove on the H220 is deeper than the AD2, and the screws on the AD2 arms are longer and larger diameter..


----------



## Avonosac

This is a decent enough place to ask, since I need to control my H220...

Does anyone know of a mPCIe / mSATA card which can add PWM control to software? I don't have room for anything like an aquero and I don't want to add a regular fan controller to my box, because it will screw up the ascetics. What I really want is a card I can make use of the extra mSATA / mPCIe slot on my Z77IA-E53 and really get pwm control of my pump and fans separately.


----------



## TheReciever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yep that would be had..........


Oh wow that was just a few hours ago when they had stock, guess these suckers are flying


----------



## Pure2sin

I am having a hard time finding a female to female 4pin fan cable to connect my fan controller to the H220 splitter!

Does anyone have a place I could buy one?

OR

Does anyone have the materials to make me one and I will pay you for it? I would buy the stuff myself but to make just one cable it doesn't seem worth it for the shipping.


----------



## BigMorgan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> This is a decent enough place to ask, since I need to control my H220...
> 
> Does anyone know of a mPCIe / mSATA card which can add PWM control to software? I don't have room for anything like an aquero and I don't want to add a regular fan controller to my box, because it will screw up the ascetics. What I really want is a card I can make use of the extra mSATA / mPCIe slot on my Z77IA-E53 and really get pwm control of my pump and fans separately.


I'm taking a roll of the dice and going to use a Corsair Link Controller. $62 (shipped from Corsair.com) is getting near the expensive end for a fan controller but I too wanted to maintain a clean, boring aesthetic outside my case. Fits into a 3.5" HDD bay.

Any updates on availability at the major resellers? Dying from impatience!


----------



## BrotherJoseph

I have been playing BF3 with no issues for the last couple hours after making no changes. But watching my RPMs when my GPU was hovering between 55c and 56c I noticed the pump would jump between 30% and 43% pretty rapidly. So I will change my curve and sensitivity and I will report back in a couple days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Keep me posted on how it goes and let me know if you need any assistance from us.


Glad to hear that


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Any of you guys with an H220 who have ever used water cooling tubing before: is there any tubing out there that is as flexible as the H220 stock tubing?
> 
> I posted before my problems with PrimoChill and fittings, but I found it is also a lot stiffer and harder to work with than the stock H220 black tubing. Just wondering if any of you with experience can tell me if there is other more flexible tubing like the H220 out there.
> 
> Also does more flexible mean any less flow, as in it is tradeoff some kind, easier to bend and work with but slightly less performance?


I used this stuff. Works perfectly. XSPC 3/8 ID 5/8 OD High Flex Tube

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413_1074


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigMorgan*
> 
> I'm taking a roll of the dice and going to use a Corsair Link Controller. $62 (shipped from Corsair.com) is getting near the expensive end for a fan controller but I too wanted to maintain a clean, boring aesthetic outside my case. Fits into a 3.5" HDD bay.
> 
> Any updates on availability at the major resellers? Dying from impatience!


Since the documentation is absolute crap on their site, by the looks of it you'll need the commander + the cooling node in order to control your fans through software. It is a different version of the same Aquero stuff I don't want to get into, and hopelessly more expensive then necessary for my purposes.

At least that is what it looks like to me, regardless







for the info!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cug-*
> 
> How long is the tubing? I don't see it mentioned anywhere on the product page and it's starting to infuriate me. I'm guessing it's 2 meters from the product images but some verification would be very helpful.
> 
> And thank you for the link, the XSPC tubing (and shipping) is much cheaper on Performance PC than it is on Frozen CPU.


you buy tubing by the foot


----------



## Nanolab

Well well well, time to count me with the unlucky ones too...
I was just going back home from work, powered on my PC just to be welcomed by the dreaded "CPU fan error" Post message...

So, I checked everything I can think of : wires in my case (plug unplug), plugging H220 pump alone on CPU fan header, without success...
Logging on Windows, I checked CPU temps to see them rocketting to +60°c withins seconds ...

I can't fell any vibrations putting my hand on the pump...

I own the H220 for just a week today, it was working like a charm till now, time to get in contact with my reseller in France for RMA I think...


----------



## Tom Thumb

WOW!!!! I can't help but think it's just a matter of time before mine goes for a crap. I'm on my lappy a lot more than my desktop, so it might take a little longer.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nanolab*
> 
> Well well well, time to count me with the unlucky ones too...
> I was just going back home from work, powered on my PC just to be welcomed by the dreaded "CPU fan error" Post message...
> 
> So, I checked everything I can think of : wires in my case (plug unplug), plugging H220 pump alone on CPU fan header, without success...
> Logging on Windows, I checked CPU temps to see them rocketting to +60°c withins seconds ...
> 
> I can't fell any vibrations putting my hand on the pump...
> 
> I own the H220 for just a week today, it was working like a charm till now, time to get in contact with my reseller in France for RMA I think...


Let me know if you need any assistance with the RMA process and I'm sorry to hear about the issue that you're having with this kit. To satisfy my curiosity though, did you happen to update your BIOS recently? We've had a few customers now saying that their pump died shortly after or during a BIOS update.


----------



## Nanolab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me know if you need any assistance with the RMA process and I'm sorry to hear about the issue that you're having with this kit. To satisfy my curiosity though, did you happen to update your BIOS recently? We've had a few customers now saying that their pump died shortly after or during a BIOS update.


Thanks for your assistance, but no, my asus p8z77V-LK was already updated to latest Bios before I get the H220.
I didn't make any mods to it apart putting on the radiator 2 fans for push pull config. You can check pictures of my install here http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/960_20#post_19615641


----------



## justanoldman

I would have thought that adding another radiator to the H220 would lower your cpu temps. But this review shows it didn't, and adding a rad and gpu upped the cpu temps a couple:
http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/4/

It is because of the pump, or something else? Have any of you guys added a rad and a gpu? What happened to your cpu stress testing temps?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would have thought that adding another radiator to the H220 would lower your cpu temps. But this review shows it didn't, and adding a rad and gpu upped the cpu temps a couple:
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/4/
> 
> It is because of the pump, or something else? Have any of you guys added a rad and a gpu? What happened to your cpu stress testing temps?


I would guess that, with the unit just cooling the cpu, with the double-thick rad and push/pull fans, the water was already pretty close to ambient and thus couldn't be cooled much more by the addition of the H220 radiator. Probably would have made more of a difference if he had tested the combination with the gpu in the loop.

Thus I think his conclusion that the H220 pump wasn't sufficient for a custom-type loop is flawed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would have thought that adding another radiator to the H220 would lower your cpu temps. But this review shows it didn't, and adding a rad and gpu upped the cpu temps a couple:
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/4/
> 
> It is because of the pump, or something else? Have any of you guys added a rad and a gpu? What happened to your cpu stress testing temps?


Most likely the temperature increase is due to the fact that the second radiator couldn't quite handle the added heat load from the GPU.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most likely the temperature increase is due to the fact that the second radiator couldn't quite handle the added heat load from the GPU.


I just reread the review and obviously missed something before. He found that temperatures were good with the cpu + gpu + both radiators, but too high with just the H200 radiator. I don't think he tested the cpu + gpu with JUST the bigger radiator. He's also got the RX 240 with push/pull fans while the H220 rad has just the stock push fans, so that's not exactly a fair comparison, either.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most likely the temperature increase is due to the fact that the second radiator couldn't quite handle the added heat load from the GPU.


Thanks for the reply.
Do you think that is the case with the gpu at idle? If you stress test your cpu with just the H220, then stress test it with a gpu and rad added to the loop, but with the gpu at idle, what should the cpu temps do?

I guess I am trying to figure out how much heat another 220 or 320 rad with quiet fans can take away, vs. how much heat a gpu not doing much and sitting at idle adds.


----------



## Fleat

How much noise should this pump make at lower rpms? Mine seems to make a loud buzzing / grinding sound that I can hear from 3 feet away with a closed case at idle temps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> How much noise should this pump make at lower rpms? Mine seems to make a loud buzzing / grinding sound that I can hear from 3 feet away with a closed case at idle temps.


I think Martin posted a video demonstrating what the noise level should be at different pump speeds a few pages back. Yours should be similar to that. If it isn't then please let me know.


----------



## Fleat

Thanks, I will compare to those videos when I get home today.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> Do you think that is the case with the gpu at idle? If you stress test your cpu with just the H220, then stress test it with a gpu and rad added to the loop, but with the gpu at idle, what should the cpu temps do?
> 
> I guess I am trying to figure out how much heat another 220 or 320 rad with quiet fans can take away, vs. how much heat a gpu not doing much and sitting at idle adds.


There are a lot of different variables to be able to answer this question properly. The quality of the radiators themselves is one of them. I suggest you take a look at Martin's site to get an idea of the type of radiator you're looking to add. Thickness isn't always an indicator of better performance. It's also going to depend on your ambient temperatures and the airflow of your case. Adding another radiator can improve your performance, but if you add an extra component to your loop then that performance increase will be reduced, or negated entirely depending on the added heat dumped into the loop. Having the pump set above the CPU block isn't going to make a difference because you'll have to have a pump added to the loop somewhere. Where the pump is placed has almost no impact on temperatures. I hope this has helped your understanding of how an extra radiator can benefit your loop.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are a lot of different variables to be able to answer this question properly. The quality of the radiators themselves is one of them. I suggest you take a look at Martin's site to get an idea of the type of radiator you're looking to add. Thickness isn't always an indicator of better performance. It's also going to depend on your ambient temperatures and the airflow of your case. Adding another radiator can improve your performance, but if you add an extra component to your loop then that performance increase will be reduced, or negated entirely depending on the added heat dumped into the loop. Having the pump set above the CPU block isn't going to make a difference because you'll have to have a pump added to the loop somewhere. Where the pump is placed has almost no impact on temperatures. I hope this has helped your understanding of how an extra radiator can benefit your loop.


Sorry I guess I just don't understand, also I wasn't asking about pump position, I was wondering about pump strength.

In the review he added a rad to the H220 and a gpu, then he tested his CPU temps with the GPU at idle. A GPU at idle should be close to room temp and therefore add very little heat to the loop.

When he tested the CPU before and after adding the rad and gpu, his CPU temps increased. This tells me that the H220 does not benefit from adding additional rads in regard to CPU temps.

I have just added your 320 and a GPU to the H220 and my CPU temps remained the same. I can see the GPU under load adding a lot of heat and raise your CPU temps, but I don't understand why adding rads to the loop does not benefit the CPU temps at least in some small degree with the gpu at idle.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Sorry I guess I just don't understand, also I wasn't asking about pump position, I was wondering about pump strength.
> 
> In the review he added a rad to the H220 and a gpu, then he tested his CPU temps with the GPU at idle. A GPU at idle should be close to room temp and therefore add very little heat to the loop.
> 
> When he tested the CPU before and after adding the rad and gpu, his CPU temps increased. This tells me that the H220 does not benefit from adding additional rads in regard to CPU temps.
> 
> I have just added your 320 and a GPU to the H220 and my CPU temps remained the same. I can see the GPU under load adding a lot of heat and raise your CPU temps, but I don't understand why adding rads to the loop does not benefit the CPU temps at least in some small degree with the gpu at idle.


Now I understand your question a little better. Even though the GPU may be at idle there is still some heat that it's dumping into the loop. Think of it this way. When you air cooled your GPU the idle temp was higher, wasn't it? This is because even though it's at idle it's still working and therefore putting some heat into the loop. GPUs tend to dump quite a bit of heat into a loop because of their design. Look at my loop for example. I have three radiators and my CPU temps aren't really much better than if I was using a high end air cooler. This is because of the heat being dumped into my loop by my dual GTX 560s. Even with my GPUs at idle my CPU temps aren't much better than they'd be with a high end air cooler. Let me know if this helps answer your question.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Now I understand your question a little better. Even though the GPU may be at idle there is still some heat that it's dumping into the loop. Think of it this way. When you air cooled your GPU the idle temp was higher, wasn't it? This is because even though it's at idle it's still working and therefore putting some heat into the loop. GPUs tend to dump quite a bit of heat into a loop because of their design. Look at my loop for example. I have three radiators and my CPU temps aren't really much better than if I was using a high end air cooler. This is because of the heat being dumped into my loop by my dual GTX 560s. Even with my GPUs at idle my CPU temps aren't much better than they'd be with a high end air cooler. Let me know if this helps answer your question.


Thanks, that definitely helps, +rep. I guess a gpu at idle adds enough heat to offset the extra rad. Now I think I understand why some go to the trouble of two loops. What GPU temps do you get in your loop when you really stress them?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Thanks, that definitely helps, +rep. I guess a gpu at idle adds enough heat to offset the extra rad. Now I think I understand why some go to the trouble of two loops. What GPU temps do you get in your loop when you really stress them?


Keep in mind that I also have them overclocked from the stock 822 to 900MHz. They reach a temperature of about 46 degrees maximum with Furmark and an ambient temperature of about 23 degrees Celsius. My CPU though will hit a temperature of about 48 degrees Celsius when the GPUs are at idle and when everything is stressed it will hit a maximum of about 53. Like I said, for a 1090T overclocked to 4GHz that's about what you'll get with a high performance air cooler under the same ambient temperature conditions.


----------



## cam51037

Where in the world can one buy one of these? They're really interesting, but Newegg, Amazon, Performance PC's, and even the Swiftech site are out of stock.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Where in the world can one buy one of these? They're really interesting, but Newegg, Amazon, Performance PC's, and even the Swiftech site are out of stock.


The next retailers that will get them will be Newegg and Microcenter. They should have them in stock sometime this week or early next week.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The next retailers that will get them will be Newegg and Microcenter. They should have them in stock sometime this week or early next week.


Yipee! I hope Newegg Canada gets some in. Seems it's harder to find some of these new/unique parts in Canada...


----------



## AdamMT

Just got an e-mail alert that Xoxide received stock. Act fast -- I'm sure it won't last long.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Just got an e-mail alert that Xoxide received stock. Act fast -- I'm sure it won't last long.


Out of stock already.


----------



## SDBolts619

Just thought I'd share....









These will serve as a good frame of reference, as after reading about the De Lidding the Ivy Bridge without a razor blade method, I ordered myself some CL Ultra and when that comes in, the lid comes off. We'll see how much of a drop in temps I get delidded...

One major thing to note, the max temps you see here were inside the first 2 hours or so, when my 180mm fans were running at 700rpm. At that point I bumped them up to 1200rpm and I don't think the temps ever got much north of 72 afterwards. You can see the trend on the CoreTemp Graphing plugin...


----------



## MerkageTurk

My one has been perfect so far


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Out of stock already.


Dayum, that was fast.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> My one has been perfect so far


Good to hear. Mine has been as well.








When I changed out the tubing, the coolant appeared to be clean to me.


----------



## ez12a

same here! but i will be flushing it out this weekend when my parts come in!

bryan, got any tips on how to perform this? I was thinking about using a bucket with distilled > pump > rad > back into bucket and running it like that for a few minutes to see if anything comes out.


----------



## Marracuda

Hey,

I finally got my H220 today, since I´m planning on expanding it, I just need to make sure, that the pump is powerful enough for the components.

*GPU 680 Block*, Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 'Hole Edition'
*360mm Rad in the top*, Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm
*Bayres above the Pump*, Phobya 5,25" Bay Reservoir Black/Alphacool Repack Single Bayres 5,25" - Rev. 2
*240mm Rad at the bottom*, the one that comes with the H220

*I´ll be using 3/8 ID tubing*, PrimoFlex Pro 13/10 (3/8'ID) UV-active Blue

Thanks for answers


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I finally got my H220 today, since I´m planning on expanding it, I just need to make sure, that the pump is powerful enough for the components.
> 
> *GPU 680 Block*, Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 'Hole Edition'
> *360mm Rad in the top*, Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm
> *Bayres above the Pump*, Phobya 5,25" Bay Reservoir Black/Alphacool Repack Single Bayres 5,25" - Rev. 2
> *240mm Rad at the bottom*, the one that comes with the H220
> 
> *I´ll be using 3/8 ID tubing*, PrimoFlex Pro 13/10 (3/8'ID) UV-active Blue
> 
> Thanks for answers


It'll run all that stuff fine but that tubing may not work with the included clamps. If they don't fit you'd have to run your own clamps. They ID will fit though.


----------



## Homewares

Anyone else struggling to find a H220 in stock anywhere? I've searched all over the Globe and every online retailer is out of stock.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homewares*
> 
> Anyone else struggling to find a H220 in stock anywhere? I've searched all over the Globe and every online retailer is out of stock.


It's expected at the moment. The next shipment is going to newegg and another American retailer (I forget which), afterwards there will be a delay of another couple weeks I believe before shipments start going out to retailers, sinve Swiftech is in the process of moving to a larger production facility in China.


----------



## Marracuda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homewares*
> 
> Anyone else struggling to find a H220 in stock anywhere? I've searched all over the Globe and every online retailer is out of stock.


I just bought mine here (Europe) http://highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220-all-in-one-cpu-cooler.html

Hope you can order it to your place


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> same here! but i will be flushing it out this weekend when my parts come in!
> 
> bryan, got any tips on how to perform this? I was thinking about using a bucket with distilled > pump > rad > back into bucket and running it like that for a few minutes to see if anything comes out.


That should work fine. Let me know if you need any other assistance.


----------



## Sarah M

My b/f finally tracked a h220 down for me and it is coming here to Australia from Finland. It was a bit of a performance arranging it because of language and currency etc. I am really looking forward to getting it but looking back over the last few pages about pump failures etc, im worried now


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> My b/f finally tracked a h220 down for me and it is coming here to Australia from Finland. It was a bit of a performance arranging it because of language and currency etc. I am really looking forward to getting it but looking back over the last few pages about pump failures etc, im worried now


If I could get a do-over, I probably would not have ordered the H220. With that said, it seems like the support is truly first class so that might make up for the issues.


----------



## Zam88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> If I could get a do-over, I probably would not have ordered the H220. With that said, it seems like the support is truly first class so that might make up for the issues.


What would you have gone with? I'm having a tough time trying to find one.


----------



## Fleat

Hard to say really. It would be a tough decision between air cooling where I know I can achieve total silence, and a proper water cooling setup where I have more control over the pump (and therefore pump / loop noise).

If noise isn't a huge concern of yours, and you have a backup cooler just in case, the H220 should be fine. My issues are purely noise related, and the performance has been great. I may attempt to empty, refill, and bleed my H220 before I give up on it and reinstall my Silver Arrow until I figure out a full watercooling build.


----------



## Nightz2k

The pump issues do worry me a bit as well. Got an H100i incoming since I like the warranty Corsair has.

Of course I'm not hating on the Swiftech H220. I _still_ want one and the customer support is top notch from what I've been seeing. I just got _impatient_ and didn't want to wait any longer. _(Overclocking on this stock cooler is terrible)_

I do plan on getting one if I can catch one in stock. I eventually want to goto full Watercooling with it too as to possibly add on with my GPU's in the near future.


----------



## witeboy07

Finally received my next item to include in my crossfire. 2 7970s and my setup is complete. I'll show some reviews on temperature impact.


----------



## edge500

Has anyone used an H220 with an Asus Rampage IV Formula? I'm concerned the tubes will block two memory slots if it's oriented east/west and have difficulties clearing the motherboard heatsinks if it's oriented north/south. Anyone have an idea if there are clearance issues with this motherboard?


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Has anyone used an H220 with an Asus Rampage IV Formula? I'm concerned the tubes will block two memory slots if it's oriented east/west and have difficulties clearing the motherboard heatsinks if it's oriented north/south. Anyone have an idea if there are clearance issues with this motherboard?


I can't say with 100% certainty, but it certainly looks like it should fit with the tubing oriented towards the memory slots. Here is a picture of my install where it looks like the heatsinks are closer than those memory slots are, and it works just fine.



This is on a Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Has anyone used an H220 with an Asus Rampage IV Formula? I'm concerned the tubes will block two memory slots if it's oriented east/west and have difficulties clearing the motherboard heatsinks if it's oriented north/south. Anyone have an idea if there are clearance issues with this motherboard?


The H220 will fit a RIVF fine. I put an Apogee Drive II (big brother of the H220) on my RIVG with no issues.


----------



## Pure2sin

I don't know if this will help people and you will have to do this at your own risk and take the proper precautions for fluid spills.

I was having some noise from my pump and was trying to do a few troubleshooting measures to see if it would help at all.

I was/am pretty positive that the cause of the loud pump was an air bubble(s) stuck.

The thing the seemed to help the most was:

**Do this at your own risk **

1. Un-mounting the radiator from the case.

2. Taking the fill cap off the radiator. (I would use a towel on the top of your case)

3. Tipping the radiator back and forth as well and raising and lowering it. (Be sure to watch the level of the fluid)

4. Alternating the pump speed from 0 to 100% while doing the steps above.

You will see the air bubbles come up to the top and pop. Just be sure to watch the fluid level and not spill.

5. Put the cap back on.

Now it seems like my pump is SUPER quiet. I had my pump at 100% and had to go back and double check that it was that high and still as quiet as it is.

I am not saying this will work for everyone I am just saying it worked for me.


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The H220 will fit a RIVF fine. I put an Apogee Drive II (big brother of the H220) on my RIVG with no issues.


Ok, good. I will be using all of the memory slots and wasn't sure if the tubes blocked any of them.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I don't know if this will help people and you will have to do this at your own risk and take the proper precautions for fluid spills.
> 
> I was having some noise from my pump and was trying to do a few troubleshooting measures to see if it would help at all.
> 
> I was/am pretty positive that the cause of the loud pump was an air bubble(s) stuck.
> 
> The thing the seemed to help the most was:
> 
> **Do this at your own risk **
> 
> 1. Un-mounting the radiator from the case.
> 
> 2. Taking the fill cap off the radiator. (I would use a towel on the top of your case)
> 
> 3. Tipping the radiator back and forth as well and raising and lowering it. (Be sure to watch the level of the fluid)
> 
> 4. Alternating the pump speed from 0 to 100% while doing the steps above.
> 
> You will see the air bubbles come up to the top and pop. Just be sure to watch the fluid level and not spill.
> 
> 5. Put the cap back on.
> 
> Now it seems like my pump is SUPER quiet. I had my pump at 100% and had to go back and double check that it was that high and still as quiet as it is.
> 
> I am not saying this will work for everyone I am just saying it worked for me.


Good tips!

One additional thing I did that helped bleed every last air bubble out was to use a spare barb and a short piece of tubing with a plug. Then you can overfill with the clear piece of tubing and watch the little bubbles run up the tube. If you cap the end of the tube, you also don't have to worry about spilling and you can rock the reservoir side to side to draw every last little air bubble out. Works pretty well.

When you think you have every last bit out, wrap a towel around the barb and unscrew it. The towel should soak up any excess that was still in the tube, cap it...and you're good to go..


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Guys..

Just a heads up.. I just released the black tubing for sale here: http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing.aspx

Note: We have a very small quantity for now (50 sets of 2m length). More to arrive soon. This is just for you guys for emergency.

White is production with ETA 10 to 15 days.

G-


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> oops duplicate-


----------



## SDBolts619

Just wanted to note that I received an email from Bryan on my RMA'ed unit - the problem was debris clogging the pump. Cleared it out and apparently it ran fine. For sure if I have any sort of issue with my replacement unit, I'll drain and flush it first before anything else...


----------



## edge500

Hi Gabe. Can you confirm for me that the H220 won't block any memory slots on a Asus Rampage IV Formula? I plan to get one whenever they are in stock on newegg!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Hey guys. I added a stop sensor, and a couple of led temp. displays.



The display on the left is the coolant stop sensor, and the right is a temp probe on top of the pump where the wire goes in to the pump, so I believe it is catching radiator exhaust from the rad. H220 is set up as intake push/pull. I'm surprised how close the temps actually are. These where taken during a IBT run on high. I think I may move the probe on the pump to a more neutral area in the case to get a better idea of internal case temps. Room ambient is 20C.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Hi Gabe. Can you confirm for me that the H220 won't block any memory slots on a Asus Rampage IV Formula? I plan to get one whenever they are in stock on newegg!


Gene has the same RAM spacing as the formula. If there was ever a clearance issue, it would be here. I have the larger Apogee Drive 2 thumbscrews on my H220 and 4x4 GSkill Trident X 2400 MHz.



No clearance issues at all as long as you keep the screws on the clamps turned out of the way.

My previous RIVG with my Apogee Drive II


----------



## Sarah M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> If I could get a do-over, I probably would not have ordered the H220. With that said, it seems like the support is truly first class so that might make up for the issues.


Thanks, well that is good to hear! As I said, this unit is coming from Finland. The Australia distributor for Swiftech has no plans to stock the H220 and so I am imaging warranty with them couldn't happen. I think that we are out on a limb here if anything goes wrong. Looks like we would have to send it back to U.S.
Anyway, no point worrying about that for now.

In Finland, they had 9 units left (all sold now) but we did notice that they were desparately out of CPU heaters! LOL


----------



## Sarah M

I hope the clearance is also ok for Asus Rampage 1V Extreme. Does anyone know?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> I hope the clearance is also ok for Asus Rampage 1V Extreme. Does anyone know?


The Apogee Drive II fits the RIVE, so the H220 will fit as well. I have both the AD2 and the H220 and the bases are identical but the AD2 requires slightly more clearance on the RAM side.


----------



## Sanlitun

My RMA unit came yesterday and I got it installed this afternoon.

This one seems better than my first H220 in that the fans are quieter and the pump is so quiet as to be inaudible. It is also cooling maybe 1 or 2 degrees better, although this may be due to a better mount this time as I did a slightly different method when applying the thermal paste.

And to the person wondering if it fits a Rampage IV Extreme yes it is no problem.


----------



## RemagCP

Any word on the 280mm AIO? I believe it will be called the H240?


----------



## reliKBORG

I finally finished my install!






lol only took 4 orders from the supplier to get all the correct stuff, but overall I am very happy with how it all looks and works.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reliKBORG*
> 
> I finally finished my install!
> 
> lol only took 4 orders from the supplier to get all the correct stuff, but overall I am very happy with how it all looks and works.


Very nice, welcome to OCN.
You have temp data before and after the H220 expansion?


----------



## reliKBORG

Sadly no from before, but I was just using the stock intel cooler, so be sure it is a lot cooler now than it was. Running a core temp read right now and under load I am at about 40c, and idle about 35c.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reliKBORG*
> 
> Sadly no from before, but I was just using the stock intel cooler, so be sure it is a lot cooler now than it was. Running a core temp read right now and under load I am at about 40c, and idle about 35c.


Ivy chip on an Asus mobo right? You gotta oc that, follow this guide if you are interested::
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## edge500

Thanks to the users that posted pics of their Asus boards!


----------



## reliKBORG

Sounds like fun, I will do so this weekend!


----------



## Caos

good, when put back into the h220 stock? not find it anywhere .. or are no longer sold?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> good, when put back into the h220 stock? not find it anywhere .. or are no longer sold?


Here in the US both Newegg and Microcenter will get them again soon. We are still in the process of moving to a new production facility, but these will be available again everywhere in the next several weeks.


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here in the US both Newegg and Microcenter will get them again soon. We are still in the process of moving to a new production facility, but these will be available again everywhere in the next several weeks.


Can you say approximately how many they will have in stock? A few hundred? A few thousand?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Thanks to the users that posted pics of their Asus boards!


No prob


----------



## Pure2sin

Anyone have some extra HydrX PM 2 Coolant they want to send to me? lol

I would buy some but $16.54 for a $4.95 bottle seems a little steep.

I just need it to top off my radiator seems like it's not totally full.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone have some extra HydrX PM 2 Coolant they want to send to me? lol
> 
> I would buy some but $16.54 for a $4.95 bottle seems a little steep.
> 
> I just need it to top off my radiator seems like it's not totally full.


I know what you mean. When Gabe posted about the tubing last night, I asked him about paying $7.99 for it, but then another $11 or so for shipping. He basically said it is what it is, pay it or don't.

I honestly don't get it though. They sell their stuff to Newegg or Frozen at less than retail so those companies can make a profit. Selling it to us a retail from their website means they get 100% of the sale not a smaller amount they split with a retailer. It would seem they could eat some shipping expense to sell more stuff directly and still come out ahead. Maybe their deals with the retailers don't let them.

As to your question, email them, or maybe Bryan can confirm, but I think you could just add a few drops of distilled water if you only need to top it off.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I know what you mean. When Gabe posted about the tubing last night, I asked him about paying $7.99 for it, but then another $11 or so for shipping. He basically said it is what it is, pay it or don't.
> 
> I honestly don't get it though. They sell their stuff to Newegg or Frozen at less than retail so those companies can make a profit. Selling it to us a retail from their website means they get 100% of the sale not a smaller amount they split with a retailer. It would seem they could eat some shipping expense to sell more stuff directly and still come out ahead. Maybe their deals with the retailers don't let them.
> 
> As to your question, email them, or maybe Bryan can confirm, but I think you could just add a few drops of distilled water if you only need to top it off.


i could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure tax codes are different between a distributor and a reseller. So they would essentially be paying more to sell the product themselves than selling it to a reseller.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I know what you mean. When Gabe posted about the tubing last night, I asked him about paying $7.99 for it, but then another $11 or so for shipping. He basically said it is what it is, pay it or don't.
> 
> I honestly don't get it though. They sell their stuff to Newegg or Frozen at less than retail so those companies can make a profit. Selling it to us a retail from their website means they get 100% of the sale not a smaller amount they split with a retailer. It would seem they could eat some shipping expense to sell more stuff directly and still come out ahead. Maybe their deals with the retailers don't let them.
> 
> As to your question, email them, or maybe Bryan can confirm, but I think you could just add a few drops of distilled water if you only need to top it off.


It would be quite normal in a distribution deal to have a clause that basically states that you won't sell it for less than you're asking a third party retailer to sell if for. That could well include the shipping costs.


----------



## justanoldman

Don't disagree with you guys, but when someone needs some tubing or coolant that is not sold anywhere else an exception could be made.

Doesn't matter for the coolant though right now, they don't have any in stock. They said maybe next week.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone have some extra HydrX PM 2 Coolant they want to send to me? lol
> 
> I would buy some but $16.54 for a $4.95 bottle seems a little steep.
> 
> I just need it to top off my radiator seems like it's not totally full.


If you just need to top it off you can just add some distilled water. That won't hurt anything.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you just need to top it off you can just add some distilled water. That won't hurt anything.


Good stuff! Thanks!


----------



## Marracuda

Hmm my fans rattle alot even at slow rmp, is that normal? it is very annoying...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I know what you mean. When Gabe posted about the tubing last night, I asked him about paying $7.99 for it, but then another $11 or so for shipping. He basically said it is what it is, pay it or don't.
> 
> I honestly don't get it though. They sell their stuff to Newegg or Frozen at less than retail so those companies can make a profit. Selling it to us a retail from their website means they get 100% of the sale not a smaller amount they split with a retailer. It would seem they could eat some shipping expense to sell more stuff directly and still come out ahead. Maybe their deals with the retailers don't let them.
> 
> As to your question, email them, or maybe Bryan can confirm, but I think you could just add a few drops of distilled water if you only need to top it off.


Here is my complete response:

"Checked UPS from 90250 to [removed for privacy] 1 lb ground service = $13.19
Our price is $10.54 so I'd say nothing wrong with our system.

Use the USPS option instead of UPS."

Note: USPS option is $7


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> Hmm my fans rattle alot even at slow rmp, is that normal? it is very annoying...


Can you confirm that they aren't hitting anything in your case? If they aren't then they shouldn't be making a rattling noise. Let me know what you find.


----------



## Klubhead

Are the gaps I'm getting in temps normal? or should I reseat?

Ambient


10 min. Prime95


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Are the gaps I'm getting in temps normal? or should I reseat?


Those are low temps to begin with, what are you doing to get the max temps? You can try IBT at max, or Prime95 8k-8k test for about 10 minutes.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Those are low temps to begin with, what are you doing to get the max temps? You can try IBT at max, or Prime95 8k-8k test for about 10 minutes.


Added Prime95 after 10 min., the biggest gap is 10c but they're still pretty low all around which is why I'm not too worried.. just want to make sure it's ok..

(ran it at defaults though.. 8k-4096k)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Added Prime95 after 10 min., the biggest gap is 10c but they're still pretty low all around which is why I'm not too worried.. just want to make sure it's ok..
> 
> (ran it at defaults though.. 8k-4096k)


Rotate the block 90c left or right and reseat. The gap should be around 7c or lower on the hot and cold core on an i5, unless you got a bit unlucky. It is more of an issue with the 3930k's. My gap is 12c at times.


----------



## Marracuda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you confirm that they aren't hitting anything in your case? If they aren't then they shouldn't be making a rattling noise. Let me know what you find.


Yes I can confirm that they aren´t hitting anything in my case, just unscrewed them and took them out, and turned them on... they vibrate like crazy...








Hope you can help me out


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Are the gaps I'm getting in temps normal? or should I reseat?
> -snip]


Just curious, what kind of OCing did you do, or do you just have a bad OCing chip? I see the sensors are reading over 1.4V for 4.3 GHz, which is insanely high for most chips.


----------



## Pure2sin

What size is the fill port on the radiator?


----------



## reliKBORG

g 1/4


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just curious, what kind of OCing did you do, or do you just have a bad OCing chip? I see the sensors are reading over 1.4V for 4.3 GHz, which is insanely high for most chips.


I'm just using the boost software that came with my mobo.. Easy Tune


----------



## TeeBlack

so finally got around to installing this thing and i must say installing the back plate is a real pain in the ass with the mb still in the case but got through it.




Here are my temps running Prime95 Small FFTs for about 10min. Im running a 2500k @4.5ghz 1.3v. Btw i have the H220 setup as exhaust pushing the air out of the top of the case.

]


----------



## Robbieladd

I've had an H220 installed in my Cosmos 2 case for nearly a month now. I've got my 3930K running at 3.811 ghz at idle to max load as this works well when cad modeling and even better at cad rendering. Stock, the processor will wind down pretty low on speed slowing down my cad modeling.

Anyway, the point is that I wanted to install the H220 with push/pull at the top of the case. Motherboard issues blocked the installation when using the two of three top fan locations near the back. I tried moving the radiator forward to use the forward two fan positions and nearly got it all to fit. However, the radiator was blocked by a mere fraction of an inch by two "L" shaped punch outs in the top pan. I flattened these punch outs easily and carefully and voila, the fit is perfect. I have two noiseblocker E-Loop PWM fans mounted under the top grill and directly to the radiator through the top pan, and the two Swiftech PWM fans in pull mode on the bottom of the radiator. My temps do not exceed 61 deg. C at extended full load and idle comfortably in a near noiseless scenario at 30 Deg C.

I've included some photos; please excuse the poor cable management, but all works quite well. Intel Core I7 3930, 32 gb DDR3 1600 ram, AMD Firepro W7000 card, Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD Two 1 TB 7200 RPM HDD; one for back up, one for storage. Also note that the P9X79 Pro mobo allows all dim slots to be filled with the cooling block/pump in place. My C1 dim slot is dead, thus the arrangement for mem that you see.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'm just using the boost software that came with my mobo.. Easy Tune


Bad idea. Motherboard software will always apply more voltage than is necessary for the given clock speed, causing excess heat. Clock it manually in the bios, you'll get a lower voltage-meaning less heat and wear on the CPU.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'm just using the boost software that came with my mobo.. Easy Tune


As Tom mentioned, software overclocking is usually a bad idea. Here is a thread that will help with your mobo. Read the guide in the first post, then you can ask you questions in the thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> so finally got around to installing this thing and i must say installing the back plate is a real pain in the ass with the mb still in the case but got through it.
> 
> Here are my temps running Prime95 Small FFTs for about 10min. Im running a 2500k @4.5ghz 1.3v. Btw i have the H220 setup as exhaust pushing the air out of the top of the case.


You can install it the way you did, but it is not optimized that way. The preferred method is to push cold outside air through the rad into the case. You also have your fill port upside down that way which can lead to some air bubble issues. But as I said, you can do it the way you are doing it, but you might get better results pushing air in, and fill port up.


----------



## Inacoma79

I'm in:

Modded my 300R to get it to fit.





This cooler is terrific!!! Check out my case mod log. Currently running @ 4.7, during my latest Prime run, temps leveled off at around 58Cs. I'm also delided so that helped w/temps immensely, this chip want's 1.4v to stay stable. You all think I should try to push it to 5.0?


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I'm in:
> -snip
> This cooler is terrific!!! Check out my case mod log. Currently running @ 4.7, during my latest Prime run, temps leveled off at around 58Cs. I'm also delided so that helped w/temps immensely, this chip want's 1.4v to stay stable. You all think I should try to push it to 5.0?


Nah, I'd be happy with 4.7 GHz with that amount of voltage, that's just me though.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I'm in:
> 
> Modded my 300R to get it to fit.
> 
> This cooler is terrific!!! Check out my case mod log. Currently running @ 4.7, during my latest Prime run, temps leveled off at around 58Cs. I'm also delided so that helped w/temps immensely, this chip want's 1.4v to stay stable. You all think I should try to push it to 5.0?


Up to 1.35v there shouldn't be an issue, but everything over 1.4v starts to get a little high. No one knows for sure what will degrade an Ivy chip, we are all just guessing. If 1.4v completely stabilizes 4.7 then I would estimate you will need 1.52v for 4.9 which is too high for me.

I would stick with 4.7, or maybe 4.8 if you are ok running 1.46 or 1.47v to get it. Part depends on your temps. If you run Prime95 for 30 minutes with 90% available ram usages, what is the max temps of your hottest core?


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Up to 1.35v there shouldn't be an issue, but everything over 1.4v starts to get a little high. No one knows for sure what will degrade an Ivy chip, we are all just guessing. If 1.4v completely stabilizes 4.7 then I would estimate you will need 1.52v for 4.9 which is too high for me.
> 
> I would stick with 4.7, or maybe 4.8 if you are ok running 1.46 or 1.47v to get it. Part depends on your temps. If you run Prime95 for 30 minutes with 90% available ram usages, what is the max temps of your hottest core?


Yes, I recall you saying that in past posts. Thinking back to Swag's OC guide with the chart of Intel's recommended voltages---would it be naive to assume I'm still in the safe "Air/H2O" OC rage, i.e., 1.3-1.45v?

Was that chart based on the fact that Ivy's get so hot? I like the idea of pushing 4.8, since this isn't a 24/7 rig.

Edit: last night when I was writing my guide my max temp on hottest core was 68C. When I passed the 12 hour mark yesterday morning max temp was 71C.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> Yes I can confirm that they aren´t hitting anything in my case, just unscrewed them and took them out, and turned them on... they vibrate like crazy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you can help me out


Send me a PM with your shipping info and we can send you out a pair of replacement fans. I'm sorry you had an issue with them, but we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Yes, I recall you saying that in past posts. Thinking back to Swag's OC guide with the chart of Intel's recommended voltages---would it be naive to assume I'm still in the safe "Air/H2O" OC rage, i.e., 1.3-1.45v?
> 
> Was that chart based on the fact that Ivy's get so hot? I like the idea of pushing 4.8, since this isn't a 24/7 rig.


I run 1.41v in both my machines all day, so I "hope" I am safe but can't guarantee it. We may find that 1.5v is no big deal or it might be bad. I have seen no factual evidence of Ivy degrading from normal use at low temps but voltage in the 1.40s.

This is ocn also, so I don't think many will keep a chip much past 3 or 4 years. I think anything up to 1.35v is no big deal, 1.35 to 1.45 I think is safe with good temps, and up to 1.5v with really good temps and not folding 24/7 or something like that should be fine.

Again a lot depends on temps, I wouldn't go much over 80c on your max temp on the hottest core with a long Prime95 run. Ivy get less stable with more heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM with your shipping info and we can send you out a pair of replacement fans. I'm sorry you had an issue with them, but we'll get you taken care of.


Swiftech service is great.
Having dealt with Bryan, Stephen, and Michelle I have nothing but good things to say about them.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Having dealt with Bryan, Stephen, and Michelle I have nothing but good things to say about them.


^^^^ Agreed^^^^







Gabe too!!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Thanks for all of your support! We're just doing our jobs though. This just happens to be a job that I really enjoy and I get to deal with some really great people.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM with your shipping info and we can send you out a pair of replacement fans. I'm sorry you had an issue with them, but we'll get you taken care of.


What is your RMA policy in the U.K.?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is your RMA policy in the U.K.?


For our European customers you will have to go through our European distributor Bacata. They are just as good at taking care of customers though and they always keep us in the loop here with regards to RMAs.


----------



## ez12a

received the parts from performance pcs! but they gave me the wrong swivel barbs (single swivel vs, the new dual swivel). darn it, i was really hoping to get this done this weekend.

aaand the white tubing i ordered has about at least a foot that's stained with some kind of pink marker.









Tip: if you want clean tubing, buy the retail pack vs. by the foot. besides the marker there's some dirt that i can at least rub off.

not a good first experience with performance.



edit: performance has stepped up and will be shipping the right fittings and a replacement 1.5' length of tubing to me. Hope it comes through!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For our European customers you will have to go through our European distributor Bacata. They are just as good at taking care of customers though and they always keep us in the loop here with regards to RMAs.


Does the swiftech h220 220 edge edition outperform the regular h220?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Does the swiftech h220 220 edge edition outperform the regular h220?


I would think the major difference between the two units is that the Apodgee Drive II is a stronger pump and is probably the major factor of the price difference between the units(the ADII w/ pump alone is worth almost as much as a h220)


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I run 1.41v in both my machines all day, so I "hope" I am safe but can't guarantee it. We may find that 1.5v is no big deal or it might be bad. I have seen no factual evidence of Ivy degrading from normal use at low temps but voltage in the 1.40s.
> 
> This is ocn also, so I don't think many will keep a chip much past 3 or 4 years. I think anything up to 1.35v is no big deal, 1.35 to 1.45 I think is safe with good temps, and up to 1.5v with really good temps and not folding 24/7 or something like that should be fine.
> 
> Again a lot depends on temps, I wouldn't go much over 80c on your max temp on the hottest core with a long Prime95 run. Ivy get less stable with more heat.


I figured as much, thanks for the gut check! 4.8 this weekend, lest I hit the "wall"


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I would think the major difference between the two units is that the Apodgee Drive II is a stronger pump and is probably the major factor of the price difference between the units(the ADII w/ pump alone is worth almost as much as a h220)


That's true, but the edge has the MCP35X built into the radiator and not onto the CPU water block. The pump is the major difference between the edge kit and the H220.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I would think the major difference between the two units is that the Apodgee Drive II is a stronger pump and is probably the major factor of the price difference between the units(the ADII w/ pump alone is worth almost as much as a h220)


The other factor is the G1/4 ports on the Apogee Drive 2 as compared to swivel barbs on the H220. Owning both, I can tell you that both are fine units and only cosmetics would sway me one way or the other, as both units will perform identical for 90% of users. Very few people actually need the stronger MCP35X on the AD2. On a separate note, as Bryan mentioned, the edge kit has an Apogee HD waterblock with the MCP35X mounted on the radiator. The elite kit is the closest to the H220, which has an AD2 and a QP-RES radiator, both similar to the H220 counterparts.


----------



## Scorpion667

Hey guys. I plan on flushing my h220 with distilled water then filling it back up with PM2. How should I go about this? I wanna get out all possible manufacturing residue inside. I don't have any other water cooling related parts to help me with this unfortunately.

I'm gonna hotwire my PSU, obviously, have the pump running off a molex outside the PC. I just don't know how I can feed the pump from the bottle of distilled water, through the pump, rad then into a bucket. Because I don't want my pump running dry at any point whatsoever.


----------



## TeeBlack

hey what size are the short screws that connect the fans to the rad?


----------



## ez12a

a large sigh of relief to see that i can squeeze a radiator on the back lol. Waiting for the replacement swivels to come in.

Add a GPU and white tubing and there you have it. Now to flush the original and alphacool rads while I wait.

and my flushing bench:


----------



## TechSilver13

After a week waiting for my new H220 I still don't have it. I really hoped i would be here today but looks like I will be waiting until next week to get it back. I gave my CC info on Friday so I assume they shipped it out on Monday, maybe they don't have any to send out? I am running another cooler right now that is broken but is functional enough to run my CPU, it also needs RMAd :-(


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> a large sigh of relief to see that i can squeeze a radiator on the back lol. Waiting for the replacement swivels to come in.
> 
> Add a GPU and white tubing and there you have it. Now to flush the original and alphacool rads while I wait.


Looking good!!! Sorry to hear about your tubing. The white is beautiful!









 

I must say, everything has been great with my H220 so far. Knock on wood!







Lov'in it!!!!!


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Looking good!!! Sorry to hear about your tubing. The white is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say, everything has been great with my H220 so far. Knock on wood!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lov'in it!!!!!


what white tubing are you using? It looks great!


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> what white tubing are you using? It looks great!


XSPC tubing.









@Tom: Thanks! can't wait for it to come in to finish my build.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> XSPC tubing.


i was looking at primochill white tubes but yours look just as good and probably cheaper.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> i was looking at primochill white tubes but yours look just as good and probably cheaper.


Thanks. Your right by the way. Look just as good, and are cheaper.


----------



## Crax

all of you with the h220 and posting them are making me so jealous that i don't have them in my hands yet







i have everything i need for my first phase towards my next build except the h220....your pictures can only keep me pleasured for so long


----------



## NIK1

I just got a Cosmos 2 case and wonder can I add a extra rad in push-pull to the loop. I was going to order a Alpha cool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator - 80mm thick and install it at the bottom of the case. If I add this rad to the loop with push pull fans do you think it will help in keeping the temps down on my H220.With my Sabertooth mb I can use only put one set of fans on the h220 rad due to clearance on the board.What do ya think of the my idea. Is it worth to do...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I just got a Cosmos 2 case and wonder can I add a extra rad in push-pull to the loop. I was going to order a Alpha cool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator - 80mm thick and install it at the bottom of the case. If I add this rad to the loop with push pull fans do you think it will help in keeping the temps down on my H220.With my Sabertooth mb I can use only put one set of fans on the h220 rad due to clearance on the board.What do ya think of the my idea. Is it worth to do...


I am not familiar with your case, so I can't say what will or will not fit. That said, adding a rad just the for the cpu I don't think is necessary and maybe not worth the work. Adding a rad so you can add your gpu to the loop on the other hand is more than worth the work imo.

The rad on the H220 is their quiet series designed for fans below 1500rpm, and tests by people here have shown that push/pull does not add much so I would not worry if you can't do push/pull on the stock rad.

Two of the best upgrades I have ever made are going to a fast SSD, and water cooling my gpu. Being able to add it to the H220 loop and not listen to the fan is great.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info. My H220 has been working great since I hooked it up. Is it normal to hear gurgling sounds coming from the pump. The H100i I had before never made this sound. Just curious...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info. My H220 has been working great since I hooked it up. Is it normal to hear gurgling sounds coming from the pump. The H100i I had before never made this sound. Just curious...


A low buzzing sound when you get next to the pump I think is normal, but gurgling sound should be air trapped in it. I had those with both my units when I first got them. Moving the rad around, then running it at 100% while tilting your case different ways got rid of it for me. It should go away, if not then let us know.


----------



## NIK1

Ok Thanks.....


----------



## TheGovernment

So was there any time frame on the H320?? I like my H220 but want a 320 for my other rig.


----------



## ez12a

what do y'all think about putting a quick disconnect on the fill port for those who have to mount the radiator/res upside down? been considering it lol.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Hello. I would like to share my Swiftech conversion experience.

I built my computer into the drawer of my TV stand and have limited room inside the case so I made a bracket to hold the radiator and mounted it on the back. Got the H220 and used it unmodified for 72 hrs and the pump died. So I RMA'd it, they paid the shipping and sent me a new pump 2 or 3 day shipping. They called, told me they flushed the system and found debris in the pump, but they cleared it and the pump started right up..... so I put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.



I got my replacement unit several days later and thought that I would go ahead and add a video card to the mix, so I spent hours making the modifications and putting everything back in the case.



I primed the system and jumped the power supply but the pump never started.

-Checked the power port with a fan
-Jiggled the cables
-Tapped on the pump
-Shook it - really well
-Contemplated opening it - passed on that (warranty)
-Considered blowing it to pieces with tanerite - God I wanted to

-Stared at it in *utter disbelief* while I lamented over the fact that I had to put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.

So now I am waiting till they open Monday so I can report another RMA... This happened Friday night - so much for a weekend of overclocking.


----------



## reliKBORG

Man I am sorry to hear about your experience, I noticed when I took the tubing off my unit the interior if the tubing had a white coating to it, thankfully my pump didn't choke up like yours. For mine when I had my loop put together I ran primochill cleaning solution through it for 4 days and at the end all the junk came out with the fluid, along with lots of little black pieces of what I assume was paint. Perchance this is what is gumming yours up?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Hello. I would like to share my Swiftech conversion experience.
> 
> I built my computer into the drawer of my TV stand and have limited room inside the case so I made a bracket to hold the radiator and mounted it on the back. Got the H220 and used it unmodified for 72 hrs and the pump died. So I RMA'd it, they paid the shipping and sent me a new pump 2 or 3 day shipping. They called, told me they flushed the system and found debris in the pump, but they cleared it and the pump started right up..... so I put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I got my replacement unit several days later and thought that I would go ahead and add a video card to the mix, so I spent hours making the modifications and putting everything back in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I primed the system and jumped the power supply but the pump never started.
> 
> -Checked the power port with a fan
> -Jiggled the cables
> -Tapped on the pump
> -Shook it - really well
> -Contemplated opening it - passed on that (warranty)
> -Considered blowing it to pieces with tanerite - God I wanted to
> 
> -Stared at it in *utter disbelief* while I lamented over the fact that I had to put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.
> 
> So now I am waiting till they open Monday so I can report another RMA... This happened Friday night - so much for a weekend of overclocking.


WOW! That is just horrible. I hope things work out for you in the end. Swiftech is a good company to deal with, but they seem to be having a lot of issues with these in house pumps. I can't believe you received a replacement that didn't work!!!!!!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reliKBORG*
> 
> Man I am sorry to hear about your experience, I noticed when I took the tubing off my unit the interior if the tubing had a white coating to it, thankfully my pump didn't choke up like yours. For mine when I had my loop put together I ran primochill cleaning solution through it for 4 days and at the end all the junk came out with the fluid, along with lots of little black pieces of what I assume was paint. Perchance this is what is gumming yours up?


Good question. We need to get to the bottom of this.


----------



## ez12a

I too noticed a white powdery residue on the inside of the hoses and in the fluid when i drained it (along with some black specks). I have one of the first H220s available in the states lol.

after running distilled through it, it went away. I'm assuming this is some kind of coolant residue.


----------



## reliKBORG

I also ordered mine the day it was released. Maybe this had to do with the first production run.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reliKBORG*
> 
> I also ordered mine the day it was released. Maybe this had to do with the first production run.


If this is so, what's the point of having QA?


----------



## AdamMT

I also had a DOA pump and was told it was due to foreign matter jamming the impeller. I would guess that it would have to be a fairly sizable paint or metal chip, as opposed to a powdery residue.


----------



## italstal

Looks like my pump may be on the way out. Randomly during gaming sessions it will drop down to 0 rpm (turn off) and then it will try to boot back up. I have noticed it when playing Starcraft 2 by having Hardware Monitor open. When it happens, i have to alt tab out of sc2 so temps don't get out of control and then watch the rpm for the pump change from around 2300 rpm to 0 then back to 2100 a couple times until it keeps running. I think the pump is still getting power because the stock swiftech fans on the radiator (all connected to the included pwm splitter) still spin at normal speed when the pump is turning off randomly.

Also, I have been using this for 2 weeks now, and it only happens when I play much more demanding games (with high AA and SS) that push my cpu and gpu temps up (both on the same h220 loop). My motherboard is then set to increase the rpm of the pump (as cpu temperatures approach 65 degrees C) , it gets to around 2300rpm and then the pump will shut off and try to start up a couple times.

So the question is, is my pump getting clogged by debris and failing, or is it somehow failing due to having to dynamically switch to a higher rpm based on temperature?


----------



## Martinm210

FYI, If you pop out the blue wire from the pump 4 pin fan header (use a sharp knife to depress the connector tab and slide it out), it will disconnect the PWM signal and should run at full speed all the time. I did this for testing, but it's one way you could test to see if you have a PWM issue or if it's the pump.


----------



## italstal

Well i just bypassed the included pwm splitter by plugging the pump directly into the motherboard and the two fans into chasis fan spots and I am still having the same problem. It always seems to trigger when the motherboard starts telling the pump to increase its rpm. I think I will now try setting my pwm setting to manual in the motherboard bios and see if it still acts up. If that doesn't work, I will try the method you suggested.


----------



## ez12a

does your motherboard have a PWM/Voltage mode? If it does, check your BIOS settings to make sure the board isnt regulating that PWM header via Voltage. My gigabyte board had 2 modes for the CPU header, voltage and PWM.


----------



## italstal

I just checked, I do not have an option to change it from voltage to pwn. I believe the only option is pwm, Well, I just set the pump and radiator fans to full on (was really trying to avoid this much noise), so they wont change due to temperature. I will test it right now.

Also, I had the Hyper evo 212+ with both corsair fans hooked up to pwm before installing this water loop and i never had this problem. It would always trigger to higher fan rpm when my temperature setting was reached without any issue.

Well, the pump did not shut off at all this time, when i set it at "full on" in the motherboard bios. I just wish there was another way to make this work without having the pump so loud.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I too noticed a white powdery residue on the inside of the hoses and in the fluid when i drained it (along with some black specks). I have one of the first H220s available in the states lol.
> 
> after running distilled through it, it went away. I'm assuming this is some kind of coolant residue.


That Looks terrible! I am wondering if maybe the coolant swiftech is using is not compatible with the rubber on those hoses. I see that type of residue on vehicles who use the wrong type of coolant because people don't know which to put in their cars. Some coolant does not work with certain rubbers and it creates that type of residue. Worst case scenario it starts to deteriorate the hoses and junk clogs up the radiator and ultimately pump.


----------



## jchambers2586

I flushed out mine for a few dayas with distilled water anf filled it with prestone 50/50 antifreeze


----------



## italstal

So, i tried connecting the pump to the chassis fan1 spot (allows pwm control) and the two stock swiftech fans to the cpu fan1 and cpu fan2 spots on my motherboard. Weirdly enough, it is working this way. Now all of them will increase in rpm when the set temperature is reached and the pump is no longer shutting off. One last question, would there be any problem or issue with the way I have it connected now (especially the pump connected up to a chassis fan1) ?


----------



## italstal

I finally took some pictures of my installed H220 loop with an added GTX Ttian. My case is a Phantom 410, so I had to do some very minor modding to fit the radiator rightside up on the top of the case. All it took was a dremel, measuring the radiator and cutting about a half inch into both sides. The result is not elegant in any way but it is functional.


----------



## witeboy07

Hope mine doesnt brake down, I was running mine for about a few weeks before I added my 7970, and changed the tubing to the primochill, im going to flush it once I add my second 7970. Its going to be a big task as I have 2 radiators to empty it out..


----------



## MiwaPi

I'll be adding a GPU to my loop as soon as my tubing arrives. What's the best practice for flushing out any left over debris? Should I be using hot distilled?


----------



## gsk3rd

I ordered some new tubing and some more coolant for my H220. So I followed the video and everything came out perfect. I ended up shortening the tubing pretty good. The inlet side is about 6 inches and the outlet about 9. Noticed some increased flow(nothing measured just visual from the fill cap off). I did however have one problem. when powering the pump with the PWM splitter it did not turn on. I noticed that the molex connector had the black and yellow wires backward on the connector so I reversed them and it powered on fine.

I did flush the system for a few minutes and did notice a few black pieces. My tubes had no residue on the inside.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> I ordered some new tubing and some more coolant for my H220. So I followed the video and everything came out perfect. I ended up shortening the tubing pretty good. The inlet side is about 6 inches and the outlet about 9. Noticed some increased flow(nothing measured just visual from the fill cap off). I did however have one problem. when powering the pump with the PWM splitter it did not turn on. I noticed that the molex connector had the black and yellow wires backward on the connector so I reversed them and it powered on fine.
> 
> I did flush the system for a few minutes and did notice a few black pieces. My tubes had no residue on the inside.


Can you post link to the video? Good job btw, looks great.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> So, i tried connecting the pump to the chassis fan1 spot (allows pwm control) and the two stock swiftech fans to the cpu fan1 and cpu fan2 spots on my motherboard. Weirdly enough, it is working this way. Now all of them will increase in rpm when the set temperature is reached and the pump is no longer shutting off. One last question, would there be any problem or issue with the way I have it connected now (especially the pump connected up to a chassis fan1) ?


Good to hear, but are you sure that fan header is PWM controlled, and not voltage controlled?
I heard you should not run the pump on a voltage controlled header.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> So, i tried connecting the pump to the chassis fan1 spot (allows pwm control) and the two stock swiftech fans to the cpu fan1 and cpu fan2 spots on my motherboard. Weirdly enough, it is working this way. Now all of them will increase in rpm when the set temperature is reached and the pump is no longer shutting off. One last question, would there be any problem or issue with the way I have it connected now (especially the pump connected up to a chassis fan1) ?


That shouldn't be a problem. Could you tell me what motherboard that is that you're using?


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Good to hear, but are you sure that fan header is PWM controlled, and not voltage controlled?
> I heard you should not run the pump on a voltage controlled header.


Well it has 4 pins, so I assume it is pwm controlled and not voltage controlled. I am not sure how else to check this, because I do not see it described as either in the motherboard bios or manual.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That shouldn't be a problem. Could you tell me what motherboard that is that you're using?


I am using an ASRock P67 Pro3 SE


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Hello. I would like to share my Swiftech conversion experience.
> 
> I built my computer into the drawer of my TV stand and have limited room inside the case so I made a bracket to hold the radiator and mounted it on the back. Got the H220 and used it unmodified for 72 hrs and the pump died. So I RMA'd it, they paid the shipping and sent me a new pump 2 or 3 day shipping. They called, told me they flushed the system and found debris in the pump, but they cleared it and the pump started right up..... so I put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.
> 
> I got my replacement unit several days later and thought that I would go ahead and add a video card to the mix, so I spent hours making the modifications and putting everything back in the case.
> 
> I primed the system and jumped the power supply but the pump never started.
> 
> -Checked the power port with a fan
> -Jiggled the cables
> -Tapped on the pump
> -Shook it - really well
> -Contemplated opening it - passed on that (warranty)
> -Considered blowing it to pieces with tanerite - God I wanted to
> 
> -Stared at it in *utter disbelief* while I lamented over the fact that I had to put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.
> 
> So now I am waiting till they open Monday so I can report another RMA... This happened Friday night - so much for a weekend of overclocking.


That loop that you have looks like it would be extremely difficult to prime in the first place. What method did you use to attempt to prime your pump and did you attempt to start the pump when the unit was stock out of the box?


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> That loop that you have looks like it would be extremely difficult to prime in the first place. What method did you use to attempt to prime your pump and did you attempt to start the pump when the unit was stock out of the box?


The loop was not difficult to fill. I did work at it for about 10 minutes rotating the loop, getting as many air bubbles out as possible (the new tubing allowed me to see all the air leaving). Since this was my second pump, I wasn't taking any chances. All I was able to do (following your video on adding a graphics card to the loop) was fill it and let the fluid drain to the bottom of the loop, then add more fluid and repeat till I was certain it was full. At this point, I attempted to start the pump by using the pwm splitter hooked to my power supply which I jumped with a paperclip.

When I noticed that the pump was not running, I tried one of the fans on the rad to make sure the pwm was getting power and it worked.

Unfortunately I did not test the pump right out of the box... which would have saved me a lot of trouble.

Anyway, I got to speak personally with Gabe the CEO who seems very interested in getting to the bottom of the issue and has offered to overnight a new unit to me. 3rd time's the charm??? Hopefully! I really want to OC my machine. Nice guy BTW.

He also mentioned that the replacement units they send out are tested for a couple of days and flushed before they are sent... Should I then again flush the system when I get it (after an initial test of course)?

Oh and if you feel like putting some nonconductive TIM in the box to replace the stuff I used on my video card the first time (had to put the ol air cooler back on), I wouldn't have a problem with that!









EDIT: You mentioned that my loop looked like it would be difficult to prime... Do you have a different loop configuratoin in mind that I should use? Honestly, I Didnt think was another way to go about it. Pump to card to rad to pump.


----------



## Sanlitun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I too noticed a white powdery residue on the inside of the hoses and in the fluid when i drained it (along with some black specks). I have one of the first H220s available in the states lol.
> 
> after running distilled through it, it went away. I'm assuming this is some kind of coolant residue.


Both of the H220's that I have used have had a pretty bad smell to them, the first one more than the second. I was actually getting headaches from it.

It's almost as if a chemical reaction was going on, and I have to have the window open here to use the computer.

Curious if this could be related.


----------



## ez12a

i think the bad smell is some kind of machine oil or lube, perhaps for the orings on the rotating barbs. went away after the first day or i got used to it lol. It was a new rubber/chemcial kind of smell--hard to describe.

or we could be talking of two different smells.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> The loop was not difficult to fill. I did work at it for about 10 minutes rotating the loop, getting as many air bubbles out as possible (the new tubing allowed me to see all the air leaving). Since this was my second pump, I wasn't taking any chances. All I was able to do (following your video on adding a graphics card to the loop) was fill it and let the fluid drain to the bottom of the loop, then add more fluid and repeat till I was certain it was full. At this point, I attempted to start the pump by using the pwm splitter hooked to my power supply which I jumped with a paperclip.
> 
> When I noticed that the pump was not running, I tried one of the fans on the rad to make sure the pwm was getting power and it worked.
> 
> Unfortunately I did not test the pump right out of the box... which would have saved me a lot of trouble.
> 
> Anyway, I got to speak personally with Gabe the CEO who seems very interested in getting to the bottom of the issue and has offered to overnight a new unit to me. 3rd time's the charm??? Hopefully! I really want to OC my machine. Nice guy BTW.
> 
> He also mentioned that the replacement units they send out are tested for a couple of days and flushed before they are sent... Should I then again flush the system when I get it (after an initial test of course)?
> 
> Oh and if you feel like putting some nonconductive TIM in the box to replace the stuff I used on my video card the first time (had to put the ol air cooler back on), I wouldn't have a problem with that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: You mentioned that my loop looked like it would be difficult to prime... Do you have a different loop configuratoin in mind that I should use? Honestly, I Didnt think was another way to go about it. Pump to card to rad to pump.


We can certainly add some additional TIM for you when we send your replacement. I'll make a note of it. Once you get it you shouldn't need to purge it. I was saying it would be difficult to prime simply because of where your radiator was placed and by the length of your tubing. If you turned your case so that the radiator was on top while priming, this should definitely make priming easier for you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i think the bad smell is some kind of machine oil or lube, perhaps for the orings on the rotating barbs. went away after the first day or i got used to it lol. It was a new rubber/chemcial kind of smell--hard to describe.
> 
> or we could be talking of two different smells.


I find this to be pretty strange since I've been working with these kits for a while now. I have yet to notice the smell that you guys are describing. I usually have a pretty sensitive nose, so I find it rather strange that I've never noticed this. Maybe it's coming from something that was shipped with it? The only smell I've ever noticed came from the tubing and only when I put my nose right to it.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I find this to be pretty strange since I've been working with these kits for a while now. I have yet to notice the smell that you guys are describing. I usually have a pretty sensitive nose, so I find it rather strange that I've never noticed this. Maybe it's coming from something that was shipped with it? The only smell I've ever noticed came from the tubing and only when I put my nose right to it.


i've only smelled it right out of unpacking it. A day or two being in the open and it's not there. It might be the new hose smell. It smells like lube for my airsoft gun--greasy/rubbery.

I didnt see any coolant spill so it wasn't a leak (and the coolant smells different too). I didnt smell anything out of the ordinary when i was disassembling the h220 this weekend.


----------



## Sanlitun

With the new unit I have I only get the smell once it warms up. I've been running it for about 5 days now and I think the smell has subsided a bit. But I still have to keep the window open when I am using my machine or it can be bad enough to make me dizzy.

The first unit had a very strong smell right out of the box and it persisted at all times. That unit had a pump fail after only about 20 hours of use.

My first thought was that it smelled like anti-freeze, but it could be oil or a combination of things. I really have no idea. I do know that in cars the anti-freeze can break down and precipitate salts and after seeing the pics of the white film in the tubes I was curious if it was something similar. Maybe there is something that is unanticipated happening in the factory or with materials that is causing some sort of reaction.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I find this to be pretty strange since I've been working with these kits for a while now. I have yet to notice the smell that you guys are describing. I usually have a pretty sensitive nose, so I find it rather strange that I've never noticed this. Maybe it's coming from something that was shipped with it? The only smell I've ever noticed came from the tubing and only when I put my nose right to it.


Both my H220's unpacked had an oily chemical smell to the box. It went away within a day, but out of the box it was definitely pungent and not pleasant. I was too excited to have the thing to be upset about a bit of oil or smell from the unit though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i've only smelled it right out of unpacking it. A day or two being in the open and it's not there. It might be the new hose smell. It smells like lube for my airsoft gun--greasy/rubbery.
> 
> I didnt see any coolant spill so it wasn't a leak (and the coolant smells different too). I didnt smell anything out of the ordinary when i was disassembling the h220 this weekend.


Yea, very similar to the lube from a paintball gun to me.

Also, as far as the tubing goes, I most definitely had some of that white residue in the tubing of the unit when shipped to me. I wasn't sure what it was, and at first I thought it was some kind of liner on the inside of the tube to prevent corrosion. I am now leaning towards it being a sign of some type of corrosion itself. I have changed my tubing for the loop in my prodigy, and will be changing out the tubing for my server when I put my HydroGen 580 into the loop. I'll chime in about the deposits when I cut open the second unit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Just FYI of the members here that use dyed coolant, I'm going to be draining the fluid from my system this week and I'll let you all know what I find. I'm using distilled water with a Primo Chill blood red dye bomb. What I'm mainly going to be looking for is how badly my blocks are gunked up. I used only HydrX with distilled water previously and when I looked at my blocks after several months of use everything was pristine. We'll see if things are any different with dyed fluid.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Alright, this will be my first attempt at WC after building PC's for 20 years, so I sincerely apologize for any ignorant questions! lol

CASE: Antec 302
CPU: i5 3570K
GPU: 2x Powercolor 7870 Myst Edition (XT) in Crossfire
MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4

What Swiftech H220 parts do I need to purchase to cool my specific CPU and *both* GPU's?


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Can you post link to the video? Good job btw, looks great.







Straight from ST site. Good video.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, this will be my first attempt at WC after building PC's for 20 years, so I sincerely apologize for any ignorant questions! lol
> 
> CASE: Antec 302
> CPU: i5 3570K
> GPU: 2x Powercolor 7870 Myst Edition (XT) in Crossfire
> MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> 
> What Swiftech H220 parts do I need to purchase to cool my specific CPU and *both* GPU's?


1x swiftech h220
1x additional radiator (check your case for compatibility)
2x GPU water blocks (if your cards arent reference design, you may have difficulty finding these in full cover form or will have to go universal block).
N# of fittings, 2 for each radiator and GPU block. Does not include any extra angle adapters, etc.
N feet of tubing in 5/8 x 3/8

try this site to find waterblocks from EK for your video cards: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

good luck. This is also my first time going custom and it's not too bad of an experience so far.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, this will be my first attempt at WC after building PC's for 20 years, so I sincerely apologize for any ignorant questions! lol
> 
> CASE: Antec 302
> CPU: i5 3570K
> GPU: 2x Powercolor 7870 Myst Edition (XT) in Crossfire
> MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> 
> What Swiftech H220 parts do I need to purchase to cool my specific CPU and *both* GPU's?
> 
> 
> 
> 1x swiftech h220
> 1x additional radiator (check your case for compatibility)
> 2x GPU water blocks (if your cards arent reference design, you may have difficulty finding these in full cover form or will have to go universal block).
> N# of fittings, 2 for each radiator and GPU block. Does not include any extra angle adapters, etc.
> N feet of tubing in 5/8 x 3/8
> 
> try this site to find waterblocks from EK for your video cards: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/
> 
> good luck. This is also my first time going custom and it's not too bad of an experience so far.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

The problem I'm having is that the more I read, the more confused I get on compatibility. I'm really hoping someone from Swiftech can come in and tell me what specific parts to order based on my specific build.

I THINK I need at least the following:
(1) H220
(1) Extra 5/8 by 3/8 tubing
(1) Swiftech SLI/Crossfire Bridge
(1) Additional Radiator (type!?)
(2) Swiftech Universal GPU Block (type!?)
(??) Other adaptors and brackets?

It's those last three items where I'm clueless...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straight from ST site. Good video.


Glad you found it useful. It was fun to make and Gabe is a pretty good director.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Thanks for the info!
> 
> The problem I'm having is that the more I read, the more confused I get on compatibility. I'm really hoping someone from Swiftech can come in and tell me what specific parts to order based on my specific build.
> 
> I THINK I need at least the following:
> (1) H220
> (1) Extra 5/8 by 3/8 tubing
> (1) Swiftech SLI/Crossfire Bridge
> (1) Additional Radiator (type!?)
> (2) Swiftech Universal GPU Block (type!?)
> (??) Other adaptors and brackets?
> 
> It's those last three items where I'm clueless...


looking briefly at the Antec 302, you wont be able to fit the H220 in its stock form anyway unless you squeeze it somewhere and devise your own mount for it. Then you have to figure out how to mount an additional radiator (120mm or 140mm, as the 302 supports those two types of fans)since 3 devices (CPU, 2x GPU) is probably too much for a single 240mm radiator.

To start you'll need a different case.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> looking briefly at the Antec 302, you wont be able to fit the H220 in its stock form anyway unless you squeeze it somewhere and devise your own mount for it. Then you have to figure out how to mount an additional radiator (120mm or 140mm, as the 302 supports those two types of fans)since 3 devices (CPU, 2x GPU) is probably too much for a single 240mm radiator.
> 
> To start you'll need a different case.


The 302 has two holes in the top of the case that are meant for routing WC tubes through from outside. My plan was to install the H220 externally... is that a bad idea? Couldn't I then install the second radiator somewhere inside?


----------



## xarot

Heh sometimes it feels that everything is failing when I do something with my builds. Everything. I shouldn't have even started after a bad and long day at work.









So I got a new kit from RMA and put it together. Had to get some help from the wife to hold the flashlight etc. So after like 1 - 1½ hours of cabling, attaching a custom VRM fan onto motherboard etc, my rig is finally up and I could fire up the PC. Well, the pump is working fine this time. But the temps are high...and then while taking a shower and thinking a bit I remember that maybe I didn't remember to remove the plastic cover from the block. Just...DAMN...maybe my 1000th PC installation and this is the first time this happens.

It's the wife who always get the attention away at the crucial moment...









Not just that but my another PC with 3-way SLI has started to show some graphics corruption after 30 minutes of gaming. It's really annoying to troubleshoot that problem. Sometimes I feel I'll never have a working computer anymore and I just should get a brand stock PC hehe.

Enough off topic, hopefully tomorrow I will have the energy to remove the plastic cover and hopefully everything works after that. Maybe I'll leave the 3960X at stock clocks for now and do some gaming.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

My pump was dying pretty regularly during Battlefield 3 so I am flushing my system right now. Good excuse to put in my Komodo block. There was some small debris that came out of the pump but not a whole lot. All of my tubing was coated in that fine white powder as well...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> The 302 has two holes in the top of the case that are meant for routing WC tubes through from outside. My plan was to install the H220 externally... is that a bad idea? Couldn't I then install the second radiator somewhere inside?


ah right, yes you can do it this way too.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Heh sometimes it feels that everything is failing when I do something with my builds. Everything. I shouldn't have even started after a bad and long day at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I got a new kit from RMA and put it together. Had to get some help from the wife to hold the flashlight etc. So after like 1 - 1½ hours of cabling, attaching a custom VRM fan onto motherboard etc, my rig is finally up and I could fire up the PC. Well, the pump is working fine this time. But the temps are high...and then while taking a shower and thinking a bit I remember that maybe I didn't remember to remove the plastic cover from the block. Just...DAMN...maybe my 1000th PC installation and this is the first time this happens.
> 
> It's the wife who always get the attention away at the crucial moment...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not just that but my another PC with 3-way SLI has started to show some graphics corruption after 30 minutes of gaming. It's really annoying to troubleshoot that problem. Sometimes I feel I'll never have a working computer anymore and I just should get a brand stock PC hehe.
> 
> Enough off topic, hopefully tomorrow I will have the energy to remove the plastic cover and hopefully everything works after that. Maybe I'll leave the 3960X at stock clocks for now and do some gaming.


Don't feel too bad. I forgot to remove the plastic film from the water block when I first installed my Apogee HD. I was just so excited to install it that I completely forgot to remove the plastic film. I realized it immediately though when I noticed that my idle temp on my 1090T was 40+ degrees







Oh well, we all make mistakes.


----------



## navit

I must ask again.... any update on when Newegg will be getting theirs?
The last update has come and gone.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I must ask again.... any update on when Newegg will be getting theirs?
> The last update has come and gone.


Unfortunately I don't have any further information on when the Egg will get these. Hopefully it will be some time this week.


----------



## Diablo85

Any update on when any retailers will be receiving the unit? If newegg gets it, that'll be great to go along with shoprunner but for whatever reason, newegg shows all swiftech parts out of stock or discontinued.


----------



## Homewares

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Has anyone used an H220 with an Asus Rampage IV Formula? I'm concerned the tubes will block two memory slots if it's oriented east/west and have difficulties clearing the motherboard heatsinks if it's oriented north/south. Anyone have an idea if there are clearance issues with this motherboard?


The beauty of the H220 is that you can trim the tubing quite easily.


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homewares*
> 
> The beauty of the H220 is that you can trim the tubing quite easily.


That's a good point. I did notice the tubes are quite thick.


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have any further information on when the Egg will get these. Hopefully it will be some time this week.


Can you give us an idea of the quantity of units in this batch? I've been watching Newegg hourly because I don't want to miss my chance. I have a feeling these will sellout quick. Also, are these units using the molex connector on the PWM splitter or do they have the updated version which uses SATA power?

And any update on the new facility? When can we expect the units be in regular supply?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I too noticed a white powdery residue on the inside of the hoses and in the fluid when i drained it (along with some black specks). I have one of the first H220s available in the states lol.
> 
> after running distilled through it, it went away. I'm assuming this is some kind of coolant residue.


Hey guys and gals,

This is plasticizer (a natural occurrence with PVC tubing). Being that our tubing is black it's just more noticeable than on clear tubing, that's all.
We have observed similar phenomenon using both HydrX and Hydrx 2.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Hey Bram, did you happen to see my question a few posts up regarding the parts I need?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanlitun*
> 
> Both of the H220's that I have used have had a pretty bad smell to them, the first one more than the second. I was actually getting headaches from it.
> 
> It's almost as if a chemical reaction was going on, and I have to have the window open here to use the computer.
> 
> Curious if this could be related.


I think that's the fresh paint on the rad. Let it air out of the box for a few hours sitting in the sun will take care of that.


----------



## Snuckie7

Has anyone put this in a 550D yet?

Does it fit, and how worse are the temps with the top cover on?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, this will be my first attempt at WC after building PC's for 20 years, so I sincerely apologize for any ignorant questions! lol
> 
> CASE: Antec 302
> CPU: i5 3570K
> GPU: 2x Powercolor 7870 Myst Edition (XT) in Crossfire
> MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> 
> What Swiftech H220 parts do I need to purchase to cool my specific CPU and *both* GPU's?


OK, if you install the H220 rad outside and then install the other radiator in the front of the case, that could work. There really isn't any room at the top to install one, so the only place to add an additional 220 radiator would be in the front. That case isn't very water cooling friendly. I'd have the two fans in the front intaking air and passing it through the front radiator in a push configuration. Then you'll need a couple of our MCW82 water blocks. You'll also need our MC800 SMC ram and MOSFET/VRM heat sinks for both cards. You can also use our 2.4 inch SLI adapter because it fits the spacing of your PCI express x16 slots. Given your tubing routing you'll need about 6 barb fittings in size 3/8 x 5/8 to connect the cards in parallel, and two more either barb or compression fittings of the same size to connect to your front radiator. I hope this helps to answer your question.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> Can you give us an idea of the quantity of units in this batch? I've been watching Newegg hourly because I don't want to miss my chance. I have a feeling these will sellout quick. Also, are these units using the molex connector on the PWM splitter or do they have the updated version which uses SATA power?
> 
> And any update on the new facility? When can we expect the units be in regular supply?


Unfortunately I'm at home right now, but I'll see if I can get you that information in the morning when I get in.


----------



## sikkly

I have a slight question for those of you that ran the pump a little while before draining it for whatever reason. If you had debris come out of the loop, did you notice a difference at all in performance? Whether it be pump vibration, noise, actual temperature, etc.

Just curious if the debris is enough out of the box to actually effect anything.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, if you install the H220 rad outside and then install the other radiator in the front of the case, that could work. There really isn't any room at the top to install one, so the only place to add an additional 220 radiator would be in the front. That case isn't very water cooling friendly. I'd have the two fans in the front intaking air and passing it through the front radiator in a push configuration. Then you'll need a couple of our MCW82 water blocks. You'll also need our MC800 SMC ram and MOSFET/VRM heat sinks for both cards. You can also use our 2.4 inch SLI adapter because it fits the spacing of your PCI express x16 slots. Given your tubing routing you'll need about 6 barb fittings in size 3/8 x 5/8 to connect the cards in parallel, and two more either barb or compression fittings of the same size to connect to your front radiator. I hope this helps to answer your question.


It does, thank you!


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> I have a slight question for those of you that ran the pump a little while before draining it for whatever reason. If you had debris come out of the loop, did you notice a difference at all in performance? Whether it be pump vibration, noise, actual temperature, etc.
> 
> Just curious if the debris is enough out of the box to actually effect anything.


Well in my experience the debris is what clogged up my first pump and caused an RMA. After it ran for a little more than a day in my PC, I went to turn it on the next morning and the pump did not start. After that I tested it a few times. Maybe it would start, maybe it wouldnt. When Swiftech got my pump back, they said they removed the debris and the pump fired right up.

When it failed, all I had was the CPU hooked up. Thankfully it shut down before doing any damage. Anyway, why risk it. Flush it out.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Has anyone put this in a 550D yet?
> 
> Does it fit, and how worse are the temps with the top cover on?


Here's how I got mine to fit in my 300R.

With my setup there was no way the unit was going to mount on the top.


----------



## Klubhead

How does this look for adding a 7970 HD to the loop?


And would I see a major difference putting an additional rad between the CPU/GPU?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> How does this look for adding a 7970 HD to the loop?
> 
> 
> And would I see a major difference putting an additional rad between the CPU/GPU?


The position of your second radiator in your loop isn't going to make any noticeable difference. The coolant doesn't heat up as it passes from one component to the next, it heats up after several revolutions of running through the loop. This is why placement of blocks or radiators in the loop isn't nearly as important as just keeping the loop neat by taking the quickest route between components. The only rule that you really should follow is that the pump needs to be sitting beneath the reservoir, particularly during priming.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Any update on when any retailers will be receiving the unit? If newegg gets it, that'll be great to go along with shoprunner but for whatever reason, newegg shows all swiftech parts out of stock or discontinued.


The Egg and Micro Center will be getting these in the next couple of weeks. I'm sorry for the delay. It looks like they will be shipping with the standard Molex connector for the PWM splitter though. It won't be too much longer, and again, I'm sorry for the delay.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The Egg and Micro Center will be getting these in the next couple of weeks. I'm sorry for the delay. It looks like they will be shipping with the standard Molex connector for the PWM splitter though. It won't be too much longer, and again, I'm sorry for the delay.


Bryan got his customer service on.

Though seriously, do let us know when you guys get a shipment of the SATA powered splitters in... I really need one for my prodigy.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Bryan got his customer service on.
> 
> Though seriously, do let us know when you guys get a shipment of the SATA powered splitters in... I really need one for my prodigy.


I bought a sata to molex connecter for the splitter. Cost me a whole $5. But now I'm not even using the splitter.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Any update on when any retailers will be receiving the unit? If newegg gets it, that'll be great to go along with shoprunner but for whatever reason, newegg shows all swiftech parts out of stock or discontinued.
> 
> 
> 
> The Egg and Micro Center will be getting these in the next couple of weeks. I'm sorry for the delay. It looks like they will be shipping with the standard Molex connector for the PWM splitter though. It won't be too much longer, and again, I'm sorry for the delay.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update. I'll keep checking the sites to see who gets the 220's in first.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The position of your second radiator in your loop isn't going to make any noticeable difference. The coolant doesn't heat up as it passes from one component to the next, it heats up after several revolutions of running through the loop. This is why placement of blocks or radiators in the loop isn't nearly as important as just keeping the loop neat by taking the quickest route between components. The only rule that you really should follow is that the pump needs to be sitting beneath the reservoir, particularly during priming.


Being that it's only 2 components being cooled, would I see a difference adding another 240 rad? Or would the temp drop not be worth the additional price?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Being that it's only 2 components being cooled, would I see a difference adding another 240 rad? Or would the temp drop not be worth the additional price?


Adding an additional 240 radiator should net you about 3 or 4 degrees in temperature drop. This will of course depend on which radiator you get and how you have the fans configured on it. Whether or not this drop in temperature is worth it is up to you. If those extra couple of degrees help your overclock to become more stable or help you to achieve a slightly higher overclock than it might be worth it. It will depend on your circumstances. I can tell you that when I added a 240 radiator to my loop I saw about a 6 or 7 degree drop, but that was due to the fact that it was an XP radiator that was placed in the bottom of my case, it was pulling air in from outside, and I put it in push/pull. Let me know if this answers your question.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> I bought a sata to molex connecter for the splitter. Cost me a whole $5. But now I'm not even using the splitter.


I am worried about space, not about the cost.

I am purchasing these components for the next major step of my SFF build and getting everything into a much smaller case. I don't intend to buy 5 splitters and add to the already difficult cable management of SFF systems.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Being that it's only 2 components being cooled, would I see a difference adding another 240 rad? Or would the temp drop not be worth the additional price?
> 
> 
> 
> Adding an additional 240 radiator should net you about 3 or 4 degrees in temperature drop. This will of course depend on which radiator you get and how you have the fans configured on it. Whether or not this drop in temperature is worth it is up to you. If those extra couple of degrees help your overclock to become more stable or help you to achieve a slightly higher overclock than it might be worth it. It will depend on your circumstances. I can tell you that when I added a 240 radiator to my loop I saw about a 6 or 7 degree drop, but that was due to the fact that it was an XP radiator that was placed in the bottom of my case, it was pulling air in from outside, and I put it in push/pull. Let me know if this answers your question.
Click to expand...

That answers it very well.. I think I'll add just a 120 rad in push/pull at the bottom (h220 in push/pull at top), both rads as intake.. Thanks for the info!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## xarot

Hmm my second kit, it was fine until say after 20 minutes the temps skyrocketed again and upon a reboot I see the CPU Fan error at POST. I'll have to put my H100 back now.







The first kit worked properly for a few days.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hmm my second kit, it was fine until say after 20 minutes the temps skyrocketed again and upon a reboot I see the CPU Fan error at POST. I'll have to put my H100 back now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first kit worked properly for a few days.


Are you saying that your replacement kit worked for 20mins. before it died?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I am worried about space, not about the cost.
> 
> I am purchasing these components for the next major step of my SFF build and getting everything into a much smaller case. I don't intend to buy 5 splitters and add to the already difficult cable management of SFF systems.


Sorry if I offended you in some way. I was only making a suggestion, and I never said anything about 5 splitters. I merely mentioned that a sata to molex connecter can be bought for $5 to power the Swiftech splitter. I purchased it so I didn't have to plug a molex feeder into my modular power supply just to power the splitter. In the end I decided not to use the switch at all. It doesn't play nice with my other fans!!!


----------



## Marracuda

After using the H220 for 2 days as a closed stock loop, I decided to expand it (adding a GPU + add rad). Starting by taking off the hoseclamps, I noticed that one of the threats on the radiator was loose... so I gently pulled the tubing off the pump and the rad... THE DAMN THREAT JUST POPPED OUT... What can I do now? I srsly dont wanna wait a dozens of week for a RMA unit (I´m from Europe...) Any idea how I can fix it?




Marracuda


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> After using the H220 for 2 days as a closed stock loop, I decided to expand it (adding a GPU + add rad). Starting by taking off the hoseclamps, I noticed that one of the threats on the radiator was loose... so I gently pulled the tubing off the pump and the rad... THE DAMN THREAT JUST POPPED OUT... What can I do now? I srsly dont wanna wait a dozens of week for a RMA unit (I´m from Europe...) Any idea how I can fix it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marracuda


You must have missed the part in Swiftech's expansion guide where it tells you to hold on to the swivel barb while pulling off the tube lol... I guess this is why


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> After using the H220 for 2 days as a closed stock loop, I decided to expand it (adding a GPU + add rad). Starting by taking off the hoseclamps, I noticed that one of the threats on the radiator was loose... so I gently pulled the tubing off the pump and the rad... THE DAMN THREAT JUST POPPED OUT... What can I do now? I srsly dont wanna wait a dozens of week for a RMA unit (I´m from Europe...) Any idea how I can fix it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marracuda


Hard to tell if anything's been damaged with you pulling it out. It looks like the seal on the inside of rad is still good. Personally I'd pop it back in, fill the loop outside the case and leak test it by hotwiring the pump. but that's just me.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

A little update after my flush session yesterday.

Some itty bitty black chunks came out but nothing too crazy. I have been able to play many hours of games without the pump dying like before. Also, the pump is alot quieter now. When I first installed the H220 it was all in my rig when I refilled it, so I am guessing the pump had some stubborn bubbles making a ruckus. I had to have the pump at at least 21% to avoid it making a clicking sound. I filled it all independently yesterday, and gave the pump a gentle shaking. I can now run it under 20% with no issues.

I also swapped out my Koolance AR797 for a Komodo 7970 block. I switched mainly for looks, longevity, and a better fit. Koolance doesn't seem to have a good rep for long term durability, and the clearance was very tight on my MSI 7950 w/ ref 7970 PCB. I had to add thermal padding to areas that were touching but shouldn't have been, it was actually making the card unstable. GPU temps are 2-5c higher, but I was expecting that.

Overall, I am really happy with the performance and aesthetics of these Swiftech products. As long as my pump keeps working








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> After using the H220 for 2 days as a closed stock loop, I decided to expand it (adding a GPU + add rad). Starting by taking off the hoseclamps, I noticed that one of the threats on the radiator was loose... so I gently pulled the tubing off the pump and the rad... THE DAMN THREAT JUST POPPED OUT... What can I do now? I srsly dont wanna wait a dozens of week for a RMA unit (I´m from Europe...) Any idea how I can fix it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marracuda


Sorry to see that








I was really scared of that happening to me yesterday...


----------



## TeeBlack

im thinking about adding a Monta 240 and a komoto 7950 to mine when i get around to it.


----------



## TeeBlack

im thinking about adding a Monta 240 and a komoto 7950 to mine when i get around to it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quick Update:

We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).

Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.

These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.

G-


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Here's how I got mine to fit in my 300R.
> 
> With my setup there was no way the unit was going to mount on the top.


I hope I won't have to mod my case because the 500R is listed as compatible on the Swiftech website.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marracuda*
> 
> After using the H220 for 2 days as a closed stock loop, I decided to expand it (adding a GPU + add rad). Starting by taking off the hoseclamps, I noticed that one of the threats on the radiator was loose... so I gently pulled the tubing off the pump and the rad... THE DAMN THREAT JUST POPPED OUT... What can I do now? I srsly dont wanna wait a dozens of week for a RMA unit (I´m from Europe...) Any idea how I can fix it?
> 
> Marracuda


You won't have to wait. Our support in Europe is very good too. Drop me an email at [email protected] with your name and address and copy of your invoice, and I will personally see to it that our support center ([email protected]) takes care of you.


----------



## nagle3092

I've been watching this thread pretty closely since it started and I have to say the customer service from swiftech is down right amazing. You guys are really setting the standard that I wish all companies would live up to.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quick Update:
> 
> We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).
> 
> Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.
> 
> These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.
> 
> G-


Great to hear that Gabe, hoping I can get one








You guys do rock in the service area, Top notch









On a side note...." Talk about a slow boat from China"






















(sorry, someone had to say it)


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Great to hear that Gabe, hoping I can get one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys do rock in the service area, Top notch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note...." Talk about a slow boat from China"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry, someone had to say it)


when it comes to shipments from china, its all luck. I got 2 packages from china once, one of which shipped faster than a U.S based purchase, both on the same day.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quick Update:
> 
> We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).
> 
> Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.
> 
> These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.
> 
> G-


Hats off to you guys for taking such measures. I'm guessing we may not be hearing as much from Brian for the next week or so.


----------



## Nightz2k

Good to hear Gabe. That just might make up my mind on purchasing one. I'm sure they'll sell out fast so I gotta hope to catch one on sale by then.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quick update...

My CLU arrived today, so the lid came off my 3770k. I'm out of Swiftech TIM-Mate, so I used AS5 for now. Temps have dropped between 14-19 degrees with the new setup. Maxed out at 64 in P95 on the hottest core - 4.5ghz, 1.270 VCore (1.260 under load), 1.550 CPU PLL. Down from 81 before.

I'm thinking I'll order some different TIM for between the IHS and block. The question is which one to go for. Indigo Xtreme is an interesting idea, but not sure about the application process, since it's supposed to be a pain. Phobya HeGrease is on my short list too. I guess I'll do some more research tomorrow and try to make a decision...

Still, pretty damn happy with the way things are running now...


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Are you saying that your replacement kit worked for 20mins. before it died?


Can't say for sure. Either it's something I have done from my side or I got another bad kit. But I will have to do some further testing (trying with another PSU) and swapping connectors etc.

The error for now I can think of is that I am having the rad with the fill hole facing downwards, I am using push out of the case configuration. But could this cause issues?

The PSU is Corsair AX1200 and it's been running fine. What happened after a quick test, when the temps skyrocketed, I think the hoses were really cool again but the block and the hose connectors were a bit hot to touch. Which makes me to believe this would be another pump issue after all. After a reboot I got the "CPU Fan Error". HWMonitor reported that the pump worked, then went to 0 rpm, then went suddendly to ~400-500 rpm and back to 0. And this keeps repeating.

I tried a fresh start this morning and the pump was working again, but after a while, the computer had rebooted and I could see the CPU Fan Error again..

Should I post pictures about my setup and connectors?


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> The error for now I can think of is that I am having the rad with the fill hole facing downwards, I am using push out of the case configuration. But could this cause issues?


im using my h220 in the same config and have no problems. there was some bubbles in the beginning but let it run for a little while on full speed and they were gone. pump is nice a quiet now.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Can't say for sure. Either it's something I have done from my side or I got another bad kit. But I will have to do some further testing (trying with another PSU) and swapping connectors etc.
> 
> The error for now I can think of is that I am having the rad with the fill hole facing downwards, I am using push out of the case configuration. But could this cause issues?
> 
> The PSU is Corsair AX1200 and it's been running fine. What happened after a quick test, when the temps skyrocketed, I think the hoses were really cool again but the block and the hose connectors were a bit hot to touch. Which makes me to believe this would be another pump issue after all. After a reboot I got the "CPU Fan Error". HWMonitor reported that the pump worked, then went to 0 rpm, then went suddendly to ~400-500 rpm and back to 0. And this keeps repeating.
> 
> I tried a fresh start this morning and the pump was working again, but after a while, the computer had rebooted and I could see the CPU Fan Error again..
> 
> Should I post pictures about my setup and connectors?


May be a air pocket problem.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> May be a air pocket problem.


If warranty allows, refill the whole thing and leave it running for a day outside the system. Check all the internals before refilling. If it still fails, just go with something else like a corsair H110 or a Tt 2.0 extreme. I hear as of late, these H220's are not doing too well for people.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If warranty allows, refill the whole thing and leave it running for a day outside the system. Check all the internals before refilling. If it still fails, just go with something else like a corsair H110 or a Tt 2.0 extreme. I hear as of late, these H220's are not doing too well for people.


You heard on a forum where people might come to express concern or seek help that the first pumps are having issues with debris clogging the pumps and lining the PVC tubing. This is a forum where you would hear every issue because people are looking for help. I somehow don't think this item should all the sudden be recommended against because Rev1 has some slight issues that _some_ users are experiencing.

Personally, I have 2 H220s that are doing just fine, and I have a few friends I convinced to get the units who are also having great results.


----------



## ez12a

My h220 has lasted longer than the h100i I had, so that's what matters to me.


----------



## AdamMT

My first unit had the debris clog issue. Second unit has been flawless for about a month of continuous use (c. 17 hrs/day).


----------



## nagle3092

So I caved last night and bought a H20-220 Elite kit with some noprene tubing. I couldnt hold out anymore so this should do me for now...


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> My first unit had the debris clog issue. Second unit has been flawless for about a month of continuous use (c. 17 hrs/day).


I wonder if you would have the same results shutting down and starting back up every day.









My first pump didnt have any problems till it sat off overnight. Turned my PC on in the morning and the pump never started. Ended up being debris in the impeller.

EDIT: Nevermind, I should learn to read.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I hope I won't have to mod my case because the 500R is listed as compatible on the Swiftech website.


Case modding is a last resort, really. You may want to start taking measurements on your clearances just to be sure. The site will say its compatible but, my biggest limitations were my 140MM fans up top and my mobo has the thermal armor which pretty much eats up all the space up top. But this being OCN, modding the HDD cage was the obvious solution in my situation.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Hey guys does this look normal for a 12 hour long test?


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys does this look normal for a 12 hour long test?


Seems about right to me - it's a little hard to tell with the way pictures resize here, but it looks like you're at 4.4 or 4.5ghz with 1.240 VCore and max temp was 76 on core 2? Pretty much inline with what I'd expect given that my system was at 4.5ghz, 1.260 VCore and max was 81 in an 18 hour run.

You can go lower on the temps if you feel up to delidding your 3770k - check out how to HERE. I did mine yesterday and temps dropped between 14 and 19 degrees under full load.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys does this look normal for a 12 hour long test?


Looks good, I don't see anything wrong there.


----------



## Autonomy

So is the h220 unavailable do to demand only ?? Or are they ironing out rev 1 issues before re-releasing ?? Also can you switch the fan orientation to achieve an exhaust set up without having the fill port in the wrong position .... And finally does anyone know when it will be made available again ?


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> So is the h220 unavailable do to demand only ?? Or are they ironing out rev 1 issues before re-releasing ?? Also can you switch the fan orientation to achieve an exhaust set up without having the fill port in the wrong position .... And finally does anyone know when it will be made available again ?


See Gabe's post a few pages back:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/1350#post_19718068

They have a few hundreds units that will be available at Newegg and MicroCenter hopefully next week. The supply is low due to them moving to a new production facility. Until that facility is fully up and running the supply will be low. They were supposed to move in on April 1 but it sounds like they had some delays.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> So is the h220 unavailable do to demand only ?? Or are they ironing out rev 1 issues before re-releasing ?? Also can you switch the fan orientation to achieve an exhaust set up without having the fill port in the wrong position .... And finally does anyone know when it will be made available again ?


Demand.

Mine came packaged in to exhaust config. I flipped them to intake when I mounted the unit in my 300R.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quick Update:
> 
> We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).
> 
> Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.
> 
> These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.
> 
> G-


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Can't say for sure. Either it's something I have done from my side or I got another bad kit. But I will have to do some further testing (trying with another PSU) and swapping connectors etc.
> 
> The error for now I can think of is that I am having the rad with the fill hole facing downwards, I am using push out of the case configuration. But could this cause issues?
> 
> The PSU is Corsair AX1200 and it's been running fine. What happened after a quick test, when the temps skyrocketed, I think the hoses were really cool again but the block and the hose connectors were a bit hot to touch. Which makes me to believe this would be another pump issue after all. After a reboot I got the "CPU Fan Error". HWMonitor reported that the pump worked, then went to 0 rpm, then went suddendly to ~400-500 rpm and back to 0. And this keeps repeating.
> 
> I tried a fresh start this morning and the pump was working again, but after a while, the computer had rebooted and I could see the CPU Fan Error again..
> 
> Should I post pictures about my setup and connectors?


Sent you a PM. We'll do everything we can to get this resolved for you.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I wonder if you would have the same results shutting down and starting back up every day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pump didnt have any problems till it sat off overnight. Turned my PC on in the morning and the pump never started. Ended up being debris in the impeller.
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I should learn to read.


I bought one the first weekend available and have been running it from 8am until 11pm and shutting down each night.. I have had no issues with pump, fans, temps....Really hoping I didn't just jinx myself


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Hey guys does this look normal for a 12 hour long test?


Forgot to mention that I'm running it in push configuration with to nf-f12 fans. Pump and fans at full speed. Is the performance about right?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Demand.
> 
> Mine came packaged in to exhaust config. I flipped them to intake when I mounted the unit in my 300R.


You got a unit configured as exhaust? Very strange considering Swiftech recommends mounting the unit as intake. I was under the impression all these units where configured as intake from the factory?







Which is as follows-the reservoir points up, and the fans push down.


----------



## circeseye

i really hope in the week or 2 (when refund comes in) i will be able to get 2 of them for me and my sons comp. (crosses fingers)


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> You got a unit configured as exhaust? Very strange considering Swiftech recommends mounting the unit as intake. I was under the impression all these units where configured as intake from the factory?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is as follows-the reservoir points up, and the fans push down.


Yep. Here's a shot of the unit after unboxing. Look a my rig pic you'll see that I flipped them to serve as intake.



EDIT: I guess I have the unit facing the wrong way in the pic. I did't think it mattered whether the res point up or down or in my case front or back.

So far no issues wse, but I'm not running my RIG 24/7 like other's here. But I use my system everyday b/t 3-4 hours so don't know if that will have an impact in the long run.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brannigans Law*
> 
> Forgot to mention that I'm running it in push configuration with to nf-f12 fans. Pump and fans at full speed. Is the performance about right?


Can't really compare one lidded Ivy chip to another directly because the glue used varies from chip to chip. You can only directly compare one cooler to another for your chip and your setup.

That said, all your numbers look good, it appears your chip and your cooler are in line with what I would expect.

You can run the pump and F12s much slower and you will only have a small temp increase. That is what I do and it is worth the sound decrease in my opinion.


----------



## Brannigans Law

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Can't really compare one lidded Ivy chip to another directly because the glue used varies from chip to chip. You can only directly compare one cooler to another for your chip and your setup.
> 
> That said, all your numbers look good, it appears your chip and your cooler are in line with what I would expect.
> 
> You can run the pump and F12s much slower and you will only have a small temp increase. That is what I do and it is worth the sound decrease in my opinion.


Cool cool. Just wanted to know if anything appeared out of the ordinary. And yea these fans can get crazy quiet. Thanks for the advise.


----------



## ez12a

finished my modified loop today! pictures to come soon... tips when priming, the radiator pretty much needs to be as far above the pump as possible (so the tubing going to it is straight). I had my rad resting on top of the case (upright) and water couldnt get to the pump.

but as i was touching up the fittings with black sharpie i accidentally touched the white tubing...will the dry erase marker/alcohol trick work to remove the mark? ugh its bugging me now lol. if anything i can photoshop the smudge away since i can get over it in person.









i left it running to bleed the air while i'm at work and to leak test. Will report back.


----------



## eoniverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If warranty allows, refill the whole thing and leave it running for a day outside the system. Check all the internals before refilling. If it still fails, just go with something else like a corsair H110 or a Tt 2.0 extreme. I hear as of late, these H220's are not doing too well for people.


Got mine week one of availability. Been running it with no issues whatsoever. Started off gently shifting the rad and ran it full speed for two weeks. Been using SpeedFan 4.47 at 25% if below 41C after that. Keeping up with this thread. I am sold on Swiftech from here on out based on incredible customer service alone.


----------



## TeeBlack

i too use speedfan as the Asrock pwm controls suck! i leave mine running at 25%. Nice and quiet to me.


----------



## Dhalmel

Where are you guys getting your orders from?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> Where are you guys getting your orders from?


Right now no one has the H220 kits in stock. The next US resellers to get them will be NewEgg and Micro Center in the next couple of weeks. Not too much longer after that production should be able to keep up with demand. Well, that is if demand doesn't completely out strip our ability to produce them







.


----------



## Thaid

Any idea if anyone besides NCIX will have the H220 in stock in Canada? There is NewEgg Canada... but I'm not sure if they'll carry them.


----------



## Homewares

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quick Update:
> 
> We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).
> 
> Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.
> 
> These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.
> 
> G-


Great hearing from you mate, good to see that your support with this product is this exceptional. Any update when us Australian's might be receiving the unit here? I'm extremely keen to get my hands on one and will fork out for the shipping from the US in a heartbeat.


----------



## catalan

i plan on ordering this with a komodo for my 7950 besides extra tubing is there anything else im going to need?


----------



## NomNomNom

I plan on ordering this and connecting it to two 240 rads, and two gpu blocks. Will the pump suffice?


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I hope I won't have to mod my case because the 500R is listed as compatible on the Swiftech website.


I have the 500R and an Asrock extreme 6 z77. If you dont want to mod the case slightly you have to install the radiator with the fill port down and on the drive bay side. The fans need to be removed and attached on the top of the case in the fan bay.

I set mine up in a push pull configuration with the radiator on top of the case and the extra fans inside the case, but this required the removal of the fan cover on top of the case. I will probably modify the fan cover to make everything fit cleanly.

I'll try to post some pictures soon.


----------



## BradleyW

There is pretty much no h220's in the UK and hardly no stock in the EU from what I can see. What is taking so long? Are they hand made to an extent?


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I am seriously thinking about buying one of these when Newegg gets them in stock


----------



## MiwaPi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catalan*
> 
> i plan on ordering this with a komodo for my 7950 besides extra tubing is there anything else im going to need?


The Komodo does not come with barbs/fittings so make sure to grab a pair.

I'm using the Lok-seal compression fittings from Swiftech:
http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx


----------



## Bazinga11

Do these fit fine in the Bitfenix Prodigy?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There is pretty much no h220's in the UK and hardly no stock in the EU from what I can see. What is taking so long? Are they hand made to an extent?


The first batch of a few hundred pcs shipped just before Chinese New Year (Feb 15 to 30th), at same time as the US batch. They arrived 3rd week of Feb and sold out within days. During Chinese New Year everything is closed for 2 weeks. A second batch of a few hundred was shipped to the US early March (and just arrived), and then we started tearing down equipment to move to our new factory which set us back close to 6 weeks. We resumed production early this month and plan on shipping a new batch to Europe within a week or so. Production is still somewhat limited, as we are still waiting for two more production lines to be installed, but I expect full production effective next month.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homewares*
> 
> Great hearing from you mate, good to see that your support with this product is this exceptional. Any update when us Australian's might be receiving the unit here? I'm extremely keen to get my hands on one and will fork out for the shipping from the US in a heartbeat.


That, to be honest is a thorn in my side :-( I don't know, and I'm working on the issue right now.


----------



## catalan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiwaPi*
> 
> The Komodo does not come with barbs/fittings so make sure to grab a pair.
> 
> I'm using the Lok-seal compression fittings from Swiftech:
> http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx


thanks +rep, anyone know if i have to contact swiftech if i wanted to order some extra tubing from them kinda ocd so i want em to match :x


----------



## edge500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The first batch of a few hundred pcs shipped just before Chinese New Year (Feb 15 to 30th), at same time as the US batch. They arrived 3rd week of Feb and sold out within days. During Chinese New Year everything is closed for 2 weeks. A second batch of a few hundred was shipped to the US early March (and just arrived), and then we started tearing down equipment to move to our new factory which set us back close to 6 weeks. We resumed production early this month and plan on shipping a new batch to Europe within a week or so. Production is still somewhat limited, as we are still waiting for two more production lines to be installed, but I expect full production effective next month..


What about the other models (3x120mm and 2x140mm). Will those begin regular production soon as well or are those still far off?


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catalan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiwaPi*
> 
> The Komodo does not come with barbs/fittings so make sure to grab a pair.
> 
> I'm using the Lok-seal compression fittings from Swiftech:
> http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> thanks +rep, anyone know if i have to contact swiftech if i wanted to order some extra tubing from them kinda ocd so i want em to match :x
Click to expand...

http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing.aspx from their website


----------



## justanoldman

^Haven’t installed it yet but I just got my black TruFlex tubing from Swiftech. Looks good, clean and shiny black, and it is flexible.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edge500*
> 
> What about the other models (3x120mm and 2x140mm). Will those begin regular production soon as well or are those still far off?


Based on current production level, I'd say that we'll start shipping the H320 next month. I'll have a better idea next week since I'm flying to the factory Monday.
140mm series are still in prototyping stage.


----------



## Pure2sin

For anyone looking to get all the air bubbles out this is what you will need (credit to Martin):

-G1/4 barb fitting with 1/2 tubing to connect to the H220 radiator

-Barb fiting with a fill port that can be removed for filling


----------



## Diablo85

Does anyone have any pictures with the truflex tubing but using mayhem dyes (red preferably)? Trying to decide if i want to order new tubing with the H220 or not.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Based on current production level, I'd say that we'll start shipping the H320 next month. I'll have a better idea next week since I'm flying to the factory Monday.
> 140mm series are still in prototyping stage.


Good to hear that you guys are getting back on track. Demand seems very high still. Hopefully you can avoid the debris problem that seemed to cause issues in the few shipments.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> Good to hear that you guys are getting back on track. Demand seems very high still. Hopefully you can avoid the debris problem that seemed to cause issues in the few shipments.


CORRECTION : "Hopefully you can avoid the debris problem that seemed to cause issues in the few shipments"

should read

"Hopefully you can avoid the debris problem that seemed to cause issues in the FIRST shipment"









Glad to confirm that debris issue has been eliminated


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Does anyone have any pictures with the truflex tubing but using mayhem dyes (red preferably)? Trying to decide if i want to order new tubing with the H220 or not.


truflex only comes in black (and recently white, as i see on the site now) so far, so the dye cant really be seen unless going through a clear block.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Based on current production level, I'd say that we'll start shipping the H320 next month. I'll have a better idea next week since I'm flying to the factory Monday.
> 140mm series are still in prototyping stage.


Gabe since you became aware of the debris issue for the H220 , is it correct to presume the H320 should be shipping with all known problems resolved out of the gate?


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gjbquist*
> 
> I have the 500R and an Asrock extreme 6 z77. If you dont want to mod the case slightly you have to install the radiator with the fill port down and on the drive bay side. The fans need to be removed and attached on the top of the case in the fan bay.
> 
> I set mine up in a push pull configuration with the radiator on top of the case and the extra fans inside the case, but this required the removal of the fan cover on top of the case. I will probably modify the fan cover to make everything fit cleanly.
> 
> I'll try to post some pictures soon.


Dang so the fans don't fit inside the case with the rad? That sucks, I guess I'll just wait for a 120/140mm version.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Gabe since you became aware of the debris issue for the H220 , is it correct to presume the H320 should be shipping with all known problems resolved out of the gate?


All shipments current and upcoming haven't this issue. They intercepted the second shipment due for Newegg/Microcenter and flushed all the units to make sure there wasn't any debris in them, and Gabriel is flying to the facility in China as well to inspect the new factory and kick thingsd into high gear, as well as sweep up







.


----------



## sikkly

Awesome to hear the debris issue has been fixed. Not all that surprised, you guys at Swiftech don't mess around.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Does anyone have any pictures with the truflex tubing but using mayhem dyes (red preferably)? Trying to decide if i want to order new tubing with the H220 or not.
> 
> 
> 
> truflex only comes in black (and recently white, as i see on the site now) so far, so the dye cant really be seen unless going through a clear block.
Click to expand...

figured i'd ask as i wasn't sure if the black was a solid, dark black tube or if it was black, but not dark enough to where you couldn't see the color of the coolant.

new tubing it is







thanks!


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Based on current production level, I'd say that we'll start shipping the H320 next month. I'll have a better idea next week since I'm flying to the factory Monday.
> 140mm series are still in prototyping stage.


Let me know if you are looking for any reviews of either one.







My test case could do a 320 or a 240.


----------



## TechSilver13

After waiting over two weeks to get my h220 back I have lost interest in putting it back in my case. When I get it back I will be selling it. I will wait a couple months after the h320 is released to ensure there aren't the same problems as the h220.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## italstal

Man, looks like my problem is occurring again. The pump is shutting off when the pwm kicks in at the set temperature in my bios (even though I have the pump connected to the pwm sysfan spot instead of cpufan).

It may not be a pwm problem with the pump, because I set it to manual around 1950rpm and the problem still happened. I am thinking of testing it at a higher manual rpm setting to see what happens.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

I just wanted to chime in. I've had my H220 for almost one month now and it's been working great! Keeps my CPU cool at idle and when stress testing. It was my way of baby stepping into water cooling.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> After waiting over two weeks to get my h220 back I have lost interest in putting it back in my case. When I get it back I will be selling it. I will wait a couple months after the h320 is released to ensure there aren't the same problems as the h220.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


2 weeks seems too long to wait. Who are you dealing with for the replacement? It shouldn't take long for Swiftech to send one out.


----------



## italstal

So for some reason my pump will shutoff under high cpu and gpu load when set at ~1950 rpm, How ever my test at manual ~2100 rpm did not cause this issue. The only problem is that this difference between rpm makes the pump noise go from inaudible to very much noticeable.

Upon further trial and error troubleshooting, it seems that when I set my target temperature of 65 deg. C in the bios the pump will shutoff when the motherboard attempts to tell it to increase rpm (the stock swiftech fans will still properly increase in rpm however). The strange thing is with everything else the same, a temperature target of 60 deg C doesn't cause this issue.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> So for some reason my pump will shutoff under high cpu and gpu load when set at ~1950 rpm, How ever my test at manual ~2100 rpm did not cause this issue. The only problem is that this difference between rpm makes the pump noise go from inaudible to very much noticeable.
> 
> Upon further trial and error troubleshooting, it seems that when I set my target temperature of 65 deg. C in the bios the pump will shutoff when the motherboard attempts to tell it to increase rpm (the stock swiftech fans will still properly increase in rpm however). The strange thing is with everything else the same, a temperature target of 60 deg C doesn't cause this issue.


My guess is that your sysfan header is voltage conrtolled and not PWM. Try connecting to the cpufan header instead.


----------



## Martinm210

Grab a multi meter and measure voltage out of the header. They are only $3 at Harbor freight. Why guess... You cant measure pwm, but if it remains 12v on the power/ground yet speeds reduce, then you know pwm is working. Perhaps the 6w is too much for the motherboard to handle or something else weird happening with the MB.


----------



## Julsmba

Hi guys, i'm adding my HD7950 to tje loop of the H220, i have a Black Ice SR1 120 Rad and 6 Bequiet SilentWings 2 ( i buy them for 5€ each







).
That's my first watercooling project, i had to driil the top of the Zalman Z11 Plus to fit the Radiator of the H220.
But my question is: am i doing this right with the tubing?
Please Help.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Hi guys, i'm adding my HD7950 to tje loop of the H220, i have a Black Ice SR1 120 Rad and 6 Bequiet SilentWings 2 ( i buy them for 5€ each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> That's my first watercooling project, i had to driil the top of the Zalman Z11 Plus to fit the Radiator of the H220.
> But my question is: am i doing this right with the tubing?
> Please Help.


You can do I that way. It doesn't really matter what order the components are in for your loop. If you have the rad of the H220 above the pump (which you do) then you are ok. Just make sure that your tube from the top H220 rad connects the "In" side of the pump. Then the "out" side of the pump (which doesn't have anything printed on it like the "in" side) can either connect to the bottom rad (as you have it) or to the video card.

I might go from the gpu to the left side of the bottom rad instead of the right though.

The guys in the water cooling club thread are the experts though. If you want more experienced opinions I would post your pic in the thread below and wait for a couple responses.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery


----------



## Julsmba

thank you for your help


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga11*
> 
> Do these fit fine in the Bitfenix Prodigy?


It fits just fine in the Prodigy









I have one in my prodigy with an additional 220 - QP radiator in the case for my Titan as well. You'll be fine for front or top mounts.



You can see the 2nd rad fans need to be on the top side of the case, but you can easily fit a single radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> Man, looks like my problem is occurring again. The pump is shutting off when the pwm kicks in at the set temperature in my bios (even though I have the pump connected to the pwm sysfan spot instead of cpufan).
> 
> It may not be a pwm problem with the pump, because I set it to manual around 1950rpm and the problem still happened. I am thinking of testing it at a higher manual rpm setting to see what happens.


Could you tell me what motherboard you have? This will help me to trouble shoot your issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 2 weeks seems too long to wait. Who are you dealing with for the replacement? It shouldn't take long for Swiftech to send one out.


We've had an issue since we only had a very limited number of units that we had on hand for replacements. This has since been corrected though and I'm pretty sure that the longest anyone has had to wait has only been at the most a little over a week.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> After waiting over two weeks to get my h220 back I have lost interest in putting it back in my case. When I get it back I will be selling it. I will wait a couple months after the h320 is released to ensure there aren't the same problems as the h220.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Can you send me a PM with your RMA number so I can find out what happened here. The delay shouldn't have been more than week or so. It certainly shouldn't have been more than two.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> My guess is that your sysfan header is voltage conrtolled and not PWM. Try connecting to the cpufan header instead.


I tried the exact same procedure first with the pump connected to the pwm cpufan header (initial setup and got this issue).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Grab a multi meter and measure voltage out of the header. They are only $3 at Harbor freight. Why guess... You cant measure pwm, but if it remains 12v on the power/ground yet speeds reduce, then you know pwm is working. Perhaps the 6w is too much for the motherboard to handle or something else weird happening with the MB.


I have a multi meter but I am not sure what points of the header to connect the probes to. Also, I am not sure that it would help anything. I think it may only be a problem with my motherboard due to my further troubleshooting.

The stock swiftech fans are connected to both pwm cpufan headers and the pump is connected to the pwm chasisfan header. In the motherboard bios I have the cpufans set on a target temperature (so when it reaches it the rpm should be increased through pwm), and the chasisfan header (pump set to manual "level 2" = ~ 1950 rpm).

With keeping everything else the same, I changed the temperature target for the cpufans between 60 and 65 deg C (on different pc bootups). The result is that only when the temperature target is set at 65 deg. C the problem would happen..

With any other target temperature besides 65 set, the swiftechfans (connected to cpufan headers) would increase rpm as they should while the pump would stay at a constant ~1950rpm. However, when the target temperature is set to 65, the swiftech fans still increase as normal, but the pump tries to increase rpm and results in turning off. The pump then keeps trying to boot back up (I see rpm increasing on it then drops to 0 and so on) until I alt tab out of the game to lower temperatures (I have to anyways so I don't hit the thermal safety temperature and shuts off my pc) below the target temperature, and then the pump will successfully stay on at the preset rpm until the target temperature gets reached again.

At the end of the day, if it keeps working as it should with my target temperature set at 64 deg. C, then I am perfectly fine with it. I am just uneasy now thinking it may start happening at other settings down the road, and I don't like the idea of risking damage to my cpu and gpu (even though I know if working properly they should shutoff before damage is done).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Could you tell me what motherboard you have? This will help me to trouble shoot your issue.


My motherboard is ASRock P67 Pro3 SE


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> I tried the exact same procedure first with the pump connected to the pwm cpufan header (initial setup and got this issue).
> I have a multi meter but I am not sure what points of the header to connect the probes to. Also, I am not sure that it would help anything. I think it may only be a problem with my motherboard due to my further troubleshooting.
> 
> The stock swiftech fans are connected to both pwm cpufan headers and the pump is connected to the pwm chasisfan header. In the motherboard bios I have the cpufans set on a target temperature (so when it reaches it the rpm should be increased through pwm), and the chasisfan header (pump set to manual "level 2" = ~ 1950 rpm).
> 
> With keeping everything else the same, I changed the temperature target for the cpufans between 60 and 65 deg C (on different pc bootups). The result is that only when the temperature target is set at 65 deg. C the problem would happen..
> 
> With any other target temperature besides 65 set, the swiftechfans (connected to cpufan headers) would increase rpm as they should while the pump would stay at a constant ~1950rpm. However, when the target temperature is set to 65, the swiftech fans still increase as normal, but the pump tries to increase rpm and results in turning off. The pump then keeps trying to boot back up (I see rpm increasing on it then drops to 0 and so on) until I alt tab out of the game to lower temperatures (I have to anyways so I don't hit the thermal safety temperature and shuts off my pc) below the target temperature, and then the pump will successfully stay on at the preset rpm until the target temperature gets reached again.
> 
> At the end of the day, if it keeps working as it should with my target temperature set at 64 deg. C, then I am perfectly fine with it. I am just uneasy now thinking it may start happening at other settings down the road, and I don't like the idea of risking damage to my cpu and gpu (even though I know if working properly they should shutoff before damage is done).
> My motherboard is ASRock P67 Pro3 SE


OK, this does sound like your chassis fan header isn't actually using PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the speed of the pump, but it's actually using a type of voltage regulation. This will cause issues with this pump because of the way it responds to a varying voltage and amperage when under voltage control. I highly recommend using one of the CPU fan headers for the pump instead of the chassis fan header. Let me know if this solves your issue.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, this does sound like your chassis fan header isn't actually using PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the speed of the pump, but it's actually using a type of voltage regulation. This will cause issues with this pump because of the way it responds to a varying voltage and amperage when under voltage control. I highly recommend using one of the CPU fan headers for the pump instead of the chassis fan header. Let me know if this solves your issue.


When I first setup the h220, I connected it how u now suggest to and I got the same problem I have now. That is what led me to switch it to chasisfan header in the first place. So if I am understanding correctly, then both must be voltage regulated even though both headers are 4 pin.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> When I first setup the h220, I connected it how u now suggest to and I got the same problem I have now. That is what led me to switch it to chasisfan header in the first place. So if I am understanding correctly, then both must be voltage regulated even though both headers are 4 pin.


Let me look into this and I'll get back with you shortly. It is possible though that there may be a setting in your BIOS that will let you choose between PWM and voltage control for these headers. Please consult your manual and see if there is something that you might need to change.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me look into this and I'll get back with you shortly. It is possible though that there may be a setting in your BIOS that will let you choose between PWM and voltage control for these headers. Please consult your manual and see if there is something that you might need to change.


I already consulted both my bios and motherboard manual [searched the PDF for the pwm term] and I didn't find any appropriate option.

Thank you for the help. I am very happy with your h220 product (the how to expand the loop tutorial video really helped me as someone new to watercooling) even though i am having this minor problem due to your quick and help full customer service.

Just another update for other current and prospective H220 users, the Swiftech representative BramSLI1 has contacted me about resolving my issue through a replacement.


----------



## ez12a

Thanks to the amazing folks at Swiftech (Gabe, Bryan, and everyone else) my modified h220 loop is up and running!

















all swiftech compression fittings and 90 adapters.


----------



## gjbquist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Dang so the fans don't fit inside the case with the rad? That sucks, I guess I'll just wait for a 120/140mm version.


It isn't that big of a deal. The fans just have to be installed in the fan bay on the top of the case and the radiator needs to be positioned inside the case similarly to the pictures above. Different case, but same issue. It looks clean and tight.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Thanks to the amazing folks at Swiftech (Gabe, Bryan, and everyone else) my modified h220 loop is up and running!


Looks great! How are your temps with the gpu block and extra rad compared to the stock H220 setup?


----------



## paleh0rse14

ok, I think I'm returning my Antec 302 case to Microcenter this weekend since it's not WC friendly. Anyone know of a similarly-priced case at MC that's better for water-cooling? I'm hoping to fit the H220 and a separate 120 rad internal -- to cool my CPU and two GPU's in Crossfire.

Here's their selection:
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=4294964318+4294959278&cat=Corsair-%3a-Computer-Cases-%3a-Computer-Parts-%3a-Micro-Center


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Looks great! How are your temps with the gpu block and extra rad compared to the stock H220 setup?


thanks. It looks like it peaks at 56C on the 670 and 77C on two of the cores with prime95 and Furmark going at the same time.

I'm running the case closed with all the mesh/grilles in place (600t top grille is pretty restrictive), so i'm sure that's causing a lot of restriction. If i remove the grille and switch to using finger guards over the GTs it'll net me probably a few degrees on the CPU. Right now i think not enough heat is being dissipated from the 240mm.

Prime95 on the CPU itself wasnt too big of an improvement as far as I could tell. More testing needed.

I changed up the fan setup as well now that heat from inside the case is nearly non existent with the GPU under water. two GT Ap-15s in pull config and the 120mm in rear has a shrouded push/pull with helix. It's definitely nice feeling the heat coming from the rads while in case temps are near ambient.


----------



## gjbquist

Ok, here's my pictures of my Corsair 500R with the h220. Motherboard is the Asrock Extreme 6 z77.

Pretty straight forward install. You can install the radiator inside with the fans on top of the case and everything fits together without modifications. (Reservoir needs to be pointed down and the fans need to be moved because they hit the motherboard.) I chose to put the entire setup on top and I will cut a hole through the top fan cover to accommodate the radiator and fans on top of the case. Gives it a sort of hot rod look. Also gives easy access to refill etc. I may add my video card to the loop at some point. Will probably switch to white tubing if I do that. The build above looks awesome with the white tubing.


----------



## Julsmba

I just finished my loop with H220, HD7950, Black Ice SR-1 and 6 Bequiet SilentWings 2 in push/pull.


----------



## TeeBlack

you gonna need more than just and extra 120 rad to cool 2 gpus in crossfire and the cpu especially if everything is overclocked.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> you gonna need more than just and extra 120 rad to cool 2 gpus in crossfire and the cpu especially if everything is overclocked.


I assume you're talking to me? What would l need? Another 240?

Are there any inexpensive/decent cases that would fit that? What about two additional 120's that could be mounted in other 120mm fan locations? Or maybe a H220 for the cpu and then two separate "red mods" on the cards?

I'm now lost... lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I assume you're talking to me? What would l need? Another 240?
> 
> Are there any inexpensive/decent cases that would fit that? What about two additional 120's that could be mounted in other 120mm fan locations? Or maybe a H220 for the cpu and then two separate "red mods" on the cards?
> 
> I'm now lost... lol


It's going to be nearly impossible to find a case with the ability to mount dual 220 radiators in that price range. That case goes for about 70 bucks and I just don't see how you'll be able to find one in that price range that's water cooling friendly. Good luck though and let us know what you find.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's going to be nearly impossible to find a case with the ability to mount dual 220 radiators in that price range. That case goes for about 70 bucks and I just don't see how you'll be able to find one in that price range that's water cooling friendly. Good luck though and let us know what you find.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031&Tpk=fractal%20arc%20midi&IsVirtualParent=1

$90 shipped, and has watercooling capability galore.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031&Tpk=fractal%20arc%20midi&IsVirtualParent=1
> 
> $90 shipped, and has watercooling capability galore.


That's a great choice, but I'm not quite sure if it's in his price range though. It will certainly do two 220 radiators without a problem.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's a great choice, but I'm not quite sure if it's in his price range though. It will certainly do two 220 radiators without a problem.


Yea, hopefully he can swing the extra money. I have the earlier Fractal Arc Midi (non-R2), and it has been great to work with.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Yea, hopefully he can swing the extra money. I have the earlier Fractal Arc Midi (non-R2), and it has been great to work with.


Actually, anything $100 or less, in a mid-tower size, would work. I'll check out the one at Newegg. Any others under $100?


----------



## WizardontheJob

Hey everyone. I wanted to provide an update for you all to let you know how things are proceeding with my newest h220. I put the water block back on my video card and connected my custom tubes to the loop. Right now I am flushing all of the air out of the system. This pump seems to be running like a champ and hopefully will continue to do so after I put it in my system.

I would like to send out props to the folks at Swiftech, especially Brian and Gabe. Thank you for your Swift responses to my issues . Brian, you are a wealth of information and I am glad that you are here for us all. Gabe, thank you for the personal call showing interest in my situation. It's not everyday that you get a call from the CEO of a company that you are a customer of.

I'll be sure to keep everyone apprised of how things are going after I put everything in!


----------



## WizardontheJob

Oops, double posted.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Actually, anything $100 or less, in a mid-tower size, would work. I'll check out the one at Newegg. Any others under $100?


Check out your local craigslist.

I got my like new 600T for $120 (i know, not under $100, but you get the idea.). Some decent cases can be found there.


----------



## Klubhead

I'd like to add my 7970 to my H220 (push/pull) loop but I'm not sure how to go about the setup. I want to add 1 120mm rad (push) as back exhaust.

(H220 Specs)
These are extra parts I'll be ordering:
120mm Rad
Fan (Push only)
GPU Waterblock (is Acetal + Nickel ok?)
Tubing
Extra Coolant
4xCompression Fittings

I've heard multiple times the H220 Rad/Res should lead directly to the pump first, then go elsewhere, so this is the setup I'm thinking:


Will the 120mm rad as exhaust be noticeably less efficient than in intake?
Will the H220 rad + 120mm rad be enough cooling for this setup?

(Made a new thread asking this, but no one's responding .. Since it's H220 related I figured I'd post here.)


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'd like to add my 7970 to my H220 (push/pull) loop but I'm not sure how to go about the setup. I want to add 1 120mm rad (push) as back exhaust.
> 
> (H220 Specs)
> 
> I've heard multiple times the H220 Rad/Res should lead directly to the pump first, then go elsewhere, so this is the setup I'm thinking:
> 
> 
> Will the 120mm rad as exhaust be noticeably less efficient than in intake?
> Will the H220 rad + 120mm rad be enough cooling for this setup?
> 
> (Made a new thread asking this, but no one's responding .. Since it's H220 related I figured I'd post here.)


lol i check this thread a lot









yes, the res/rad should be above the pump for best performance, but this isnt a requirement. You just need to make sure you get all of the air out of the system. Configuring it other ways makes it significantly more difficult to get air out.

Looking at your picture, I would recommend pushing or pulling air out the top. If you're pushing air through the top rad, and have a rear exhausting the air, you're going to be pulling warmish air through the rear rad, and limiting cooling potential of the rear rad. Compensate the two exhaust rads with more intake. Since your GPU will be under water, your internal case temps will be nearly ambient with proper intake.

I have a 120mm rear rad as well, but i set my loop like this: 240mm rad/res > H220 pump (CPU) > 120mm rear rad (exhaust) > 670 > 240 mm red/res.

Though eventually all the water will reach an equilibrium apparently, I like the concept of having a radiator between the CPU and GPU block to bleed off some of the CPU heat before cycling into the GPU block.

An additional 120mm rad should be good enough to cool both devices.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> I'd like to add my 7970 to my H220 (push/pull) loop but I'm not sure how to go about the setup. I want to add 1 120mm rad (push) as back exhaust.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (H220 Specs)
> These are extra parts I'll be ordering:
> 120mm Rad
> Fan (Push only)
> GPU Waterblock (is Acetal + Nickel ok?)
> Tubing
> Extra Coolant
> 4xCompression Fittings
> 
> I've heard multiple times the H220 Rad/Res should lead directly to the pump first, then go elsewhere, so this is the setup I'm thinking:
> 
> 
> Will the 120mm rad as exhaust be noticeably less efficient than in intake?
> Will the H220 rad + 120mm rad be enough cooling for this setup?
> 
> (Made a new thread asking this, but no one's responding .. Since it's H220 related I figured I'd post here.)


With a reasonable oc on a Sandy chip and one gpu I would think one extra 120 rad would be ok. If you can't fit a rad in the bottom or front then pushing air out the back through it is probably your only choice. How you have it pictured looks right. You have a choice of going from the pump to either the gpu or rad first, that is up to you.

It is a good idea to install everything and do a dry run so you can see how everything fits and get the right tube length.

I would recommend against a nickel gpu block, get an all copper one, it is listed as the Acrylic one I believe. Also note that the opening of that EK block only point down, so you will need to loop the tubes under, buy an EK 90 extension block or use additional fittings. Call Frozen tomorrow and ask for Joe. He can tell you more about which block would be good since your gpu is below everything else so fittings that point up would be easier.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would recommend against a nickel gpu block, get an all copper one, it is listed as the Acrylic one I believe. Also note that the opening of that EK block only point down, so you will need to loop the tubes under, buy an EK 90 extension block or use additional fittings. Call Frozen tomorrow and ask for Joe. He can tell you more about which block would be good since your gpu is below everything else so fittings that point up would be easier.


the EK full cover blocks come with the 90 degree add on block for the EK link or something system. All you need is 90 degree fittings/adapters from there on out unless you want to have tubing coming out in the same plane as the card..

I will second the recommendation for a copper block, though their nickel problems were apparently solved and the coating doesnt affect the cooling performance too much.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> the EK full cover blocks come with the 90 degree add on block for the EK link or something system. All you need is 90 degree fittings/adapters from there on out unless you want to have tubing coming out in the same plane as the card..
> 
> I will second the recommendation for a copper block, though their nickel problems were apparently solved and the coating doesnt affect the cooling performance too much.


I can tell you that EK has not solved all their nickel problems, I sent mine back for a copper one. The EK comes with a 90 degree block, then he will need to buy another one. That is four 90 degrees turns slowing down flow rate a little plus the cost of the extra 90 degree block, or he could look to get a block that has top openings and not have do any of that. Either way it will work.

Also with nickel you are not supposed to use silver so you shouldn't use a kill coil if you go that way. With the coolant you don't have worry about that now, but there may come a time when you want or need to just use distilled.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Actually, anything $100 or less, in a mid-tower size, would work. I'll check out the one at Newegg. Any others under $100?


I don't know how much they are currently, but I bought my third NZXT Phantom Full Tower for $90, and could've gotten a $20 MIR had I bothered. I love these cases; and they are the same height as a mid tower, just longer. With a little work you can fit quite a bit of cooling in them. I did a lot of work to Phantom #2 and fit 2 480mm rads, and could have added a 240 or 360 if I wanted. Even the mini Phantom I'm building will hold the H220's 240 rad/res and a 360.


----------



## eoniverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I don't know how much they are currently, but I bought my third NZXT Phantom Full Tower for $90, and could've gotten a $20 MIR had I bothered. I love these cases; and they are the same height as a mid tower, just longer. With a little work you can fit quite a bit of cooling in them. I did a lot of work to Phantom #2 and fit 2 480mm rads, and could have added a 240 or 360 if I wanted. Even the mini Phantom I'm building will hold the H220's 240 rad/res and a 360.


Lot's of good cases out there if you have time and patience. I picked up my Switch 810 for 100.00 shipped off eBay.


----------



## TeeBlack

You can get the Arc Midi 2 at newegg for $90


----------



## Aestylis

My h220's pump stopped working tonight.







was playing some games and bluescreened. rebooted into bios and saw CPU temps at 99 degrees. Quickly powered it off to let it cool. Now I'm not sure if I should attempt to flush it, or just RMA it. I couldn't feel any pressure or vibrations, nor did I hear anything from the pump.

EDIT: It came back to life, seems like some debris was stuck in there. I hooked it back up after removing it from my system and it seems the movement dislodged the debris. All good, just going to flush it when I expand.









Thanks Swiftech for the quick response!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I don't know how much they are currently, but I bought my third NZXT Phantom Full Tower for $90, and could've gotten a $20 MIR had I bothered. I love these cases; and they are the same height as a mid tower, just longer. With a little work you can fit quite a bit of cooling in them. I did a lot of work to Phantom #2 and fit 2 480mm rads, and could have added a 240 or 360 if I wanted. Even the mini Phantom I'm building will hold the H220's 240 rad/res and a 360.


I really like the 410 Phantom cases! Do you happen to have any photographs or diagrams of your setup(s)? I'd really like to see how you fit all that cooling in there! Is it all internal?


----------



## mojojj31

So I have an opportunity to pick up an Apogee Drive II. I'm wondering if I should switch out my H220 for that instead. I know they're basically the same.

Considering that I'd run my H220 at max of 1600RPM even while gaming, I would think there'd be no difference in performance between the two, right?

Since I'm running the H220 through 3 rads and a GPU block, I'm wondering if the ADII wouldn't be better at the job at lower RPMs.


----------



## Klubhead

Thanks for all the replies for my WC loop!

I'd like to go with this waterblock if I can find it...

Also, I think I''m going to go ahead and try the setup the same as the pic.. my ambient temps are never warm, either AC or windows open all the time.. If I'm not seeing the temps I like I'll swap things around..

But thanks again fellas


----------



## MadeinUganda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Actually, anything $100 or less, in a mid-tower size, would work. I'll check out the one at Newegg. Any others under $100?


Here's the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 that the others posted but for $20 less. Shipping might make it the same price as the one listed on newegg which has free shipping. There's also the Define R4 if you can find it on sale.
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=Arc%20Midi%20R2&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1371


----------



## paleh0rse14

What do you guys think of the *Cooler Master 690 II Advanced* case with 2 x 240mm H220 rads, and the blocks for two GPUs and CPU? (1 rad up top, and 1 on bottom with lower 4-HDD cage removed).

This case here:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-690-Advanced-RC-692A-KKN5/dp/B007ZOB9MM

Review here:
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_cm_690_ii_advanced_review,1.html

Example build:
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4885/img1633l.jpg

It's between this and the *Arc Midi R2*... which is better, and why?


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> What do you guys think of the *Cooler Master 690 II Advanced* case with 2 x 240mm H220 rads, and the blocks for two GPUs and CPU? (1 rad up top, and 1 on bottom with lower 4-HDD cage removed).
> 
> This case here:
> http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-690-Advanced-RC-692A-KKN5/dp/B007ZOB9MM
> 
> Review here:
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_cm_690_ii_advanced_review,1.html
> 
> Example build:
> http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4885/img1633l.jpg
> 
> It's between this and the *Arc Midi R2*... which is better, and why?


id go with the Arc Midi 2. you will barely be able to fit the h220 in the cm 690 in the top (i use to have one) but you can easily fit it in the bottom.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aestylis*
> 
> My h220's pump stopped working tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was playing some games and bluescreened. rebooted into bios and saw CPU temps at 99 degrees. Quickly powered it off to let it cool. Now I'm not sure if I should attempt to flush it, or just RMA it. I couldn't feel any pressure or vibrations, nor did I hear anything from the pump.


Very sorry to hear that. I would flush it out and give it another try before RMAing it.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> What do you guys think of the *Cooler Master 690 II Advanced* case with 2 x 240mm H220 rads, and the blocks for two GPUs and CPU? (1 rad up top, and 1 on bottom with lower 4-HDD cage removed).
> 
> This case here:
> http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-690-Advanced-RC-692A-KKN5/dp/B007ZOB9MM
> 
> Review here:
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_cm_690_ii_advanced_review,1.html
> 
> Example build:
> http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4885/img1633l.jpg
> 
> It's between this and the *Arc Midi R2*... which is better, and why?


As someone with an Arc Midi R2, I firmly believe it is the BEST mid tower for water cooling hands down. The 690 is a good case with a lot of options, but the versatility of the Midi is insane. You can fit 240 rads that are 60mm deep both top and front. You probably can do P/P with the top, and can with the front. The front can fit 280 rads as well, and depending on your ram/mobo might be able to fit deep 280's up top as well, but it starts getting tight. Unless you need more than 2 drive bays, I think the Midi is pretty damn good.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> So I have an opportunity to pick up an Apogee Drive II. I'm wondering if I should switch out my H220 for that instead. I know they're basically the same.
> 
> Considering that I'd run my H220 at max of 1600RPM even while gaming, I would think there'd be no difference in performance between the two, right?
> 
> Since I'm running the H220 through 3 rads and a GPU block, I'm wondering if the ADII wouldn't be better at the job at lower RPMs.


The reason to get an apogee drive ii in your situation would be for aesthetics, such as to use G1/4 fittings or different size tubing. There will be no performance difference. I have both the AD2 and the H220 and I'll be running the H220 in my mini-Phantom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I really like the 410 Phantom cases! Do you happen to have any photographs or diagrams of your setup(s)? I'd really like to see how you fit all that cooling in there! Is it all internal?


Yes it's all internal. Here's the build log.
www.overclock.net/t/1299901/completed-red-rover-nzxt-phantom-build-log


----------



## BradleyW

Hey, what are your views on fan/rad shrouds? Cheers.


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The reason to get an apogee drive ii in your situation would be for aesthetics, such as to use G1/4 fittings or different size tubing. There will be no performance difference. I have both the AD2 and the H220 and I'll be running the H220 in my mini-Phantom.


So in what situations would you say that the AD2 is needed over the H220. More specifically regarding performance than aesthetics.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> So in what situations would you say that the AD2 is needed over the H220. More specifically regarding performance than aesthetics.


For example, if you have 3 GPUs, CPU, RAM, and chipsets all under water with 2 or 3 rads you'd likely need an Apogee Drive 2 over the H220, though you'd be better off with a D5 and Apogee HD for noise. For 3 blocks plus 3 rads or anything under you usually don't need any more power than the H220 can dish out.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey, what are your views on fan/rad shrouds? Cheers.


I like cleaning out my comp weekly, so I say f' em lol. Seriously though filters can be a good thing but I only use them if they are much larger than the fans breathing through them and not sitting directly on the fans. I say this because they work the same way an air filter on your car intake. The less restrictive they are, the more air will flow through them. Dust filters are extremely restrictive you want the much larger and sitting away from the fan enough that the fan breath through the whole filter and not just the portion in front of it.


----------



## paleh0rse14

alright, you guys have sold me on the Arc Midi R2! I just returned the Antec 302 to Microcenter. Unfortunately, all they carry at MC is the original Arc Midi, so I'm ordering the R2 online now. Until then, my setup is sitting out on a make-shift workbench breathing the open air!









As soon as the Swiftech kits start shipping, I'll be sure to snag the parts I need and start a quick/dirty build thread. (I'm probably going to have a ton of questions about fittings and such)

Thanks for all the help so far, I appreciate it!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I like cleaning out my comp weekly, so I say f' em lol. Seriously though filters can be a good thing but I only use them if they are much larger than the fans breathing through them and not sitting directly on the fans. I say this because they work the same way an air filter on your car intake. The less restrictive they are, the more air will flow through them. Dust filters are extremely restrictive you want the much larger and sitting away from the fan enough that the fan breath through the whole filter and not just the portion in front of it.


Thanks for your views.


----------



## Phelan

No prob


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For example, if you have 3 GPUs, CPU, RAM, and chipsets all under water with 2 or 3 rads you'd likely need an Apogee Drive 2 over the H220, though you'd be better off with a D5 and Apogee HD for noise. For 3 blocks plus 3 rads or anything under you usually don't need any more power than the H220 can dish out.


Repped. This is exactly what I wanted to know. I can't really see myself going past that many components, so the H220 should stay with me for a while. If it comes to a point where I'll have that many components, then I'll switch to a D5 or MCP-35X.


----------



## amtbr

So you guys that have the H220, I take it you are happy? I am going to either get a H220 or the Corsair H110.

Any idea where the hell to buy a h220? No one seems to have them in stock....


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> So you guys that have the H220, I take it you are happy? I am going to either get a H220 or the Corsair H110.
> 
> Any idea where the hell to buy a h220? No one seems to have them in stock....


New shipments are set yo arrive at Newegg and MicroCenter in the next week or two. Jeep checking this thread and you'll see several of us say something when they show up in stock...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> So you guys that have the H220, I take it you are happy? I am going to either get a H220 or the Corsair H110.
> 
> Any idea where the hell to buy a h220? No one seems to have them in stock....


If you are never ever going to expand it, then a Corsair unit is fine for cooling your cpu. H220 is a no brainer if want to cool your gpu(s) or customize it. As posted already, should have stock available pretty soon.


----------



## Robbieladd

I've got my H220 mounted at the top of a Cosmos II case with the helix fans pulling and two Noiseblocker E-loop fans pushing through the top pan. This arrangement makes for a very short distance from the radiator barbs to the pump barbs so I decided to retrofit the tubing with shorter lengths of clear vinyl tubing. This worked out just great as I am able to see any air moving in the system. At first I had some gurgling sounds and could easily see small air bubbles moving through the tubing occasionally. The sights and sounds were intermittent and did not last long. I ran the system at full speed for a couple of hours then removed the radiator, removed the fill cap, tilted the radiator and filled a few CC's into the radiator plenum. After assembly there has been no noise, no sign of air in the tubing and great temps on my 3930K. At full load my six cores average 54 deg C. I couldn't ask for more nor do I need more. A great AIO cooler and easy to modify if needed.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> If you are never ever going to expand it, then a Corsair unit is fine for cooling your cpu. H220 is a no brainer if want to cool your gpu(s) or customize it. As posted already, should have stock available pretty soon.


Except the Corsair is much louder isn't it?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Except the Corsair is much louder isn't it?


I don't think any AIO coolers come with really quiet fans, so assuming you replace them the H100i pump is quieter than the H220 because it is a lot less powerful. However most don't hear either pump over their fans. Stock fans unchanged, then yes the H100i fans are not as quiet as the stock H220 fans.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> So you guys that have the H220, I take it you are happy? I am going to either get a H220 or the Corsair H110.
> 
> Any idea where the hell to buy a h220? No one seems to have them in stock....


I have 2, and I am very happy with them. I have expanded both to add a GPU, additionally one loop has an additional radiator in it, and it is working great.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I have 2, and I am very happy with them. I have expanded both to add a GPU, additionally one loop has an additional radiator in it, and it is working great.


Is your second rad a matching rad, or did you go with another brand?

Does the second rad need it's own reservoir?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Does the second rad need it's own reservoir?


no, you only need one res in a loop like that. i have a 120mm Alphacool ST30 in addition to the h220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aestylis*
> 
> My h220's pump stopped working tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was playing some games and bluescreened. rebooted into bios and saw CPU temps at 99 degrees. Quickly powered it off to let it cool. Now I'm not sure if I should attempt to flush it, or just RMA it. I couldn't feel any pressure or vibrations, nor did I hear anything from the pump.


I'm really sorry to hear about the issue with your pump not working. Sent you a PM so that we can look at either fixing the issue or starting the process for issuing you an RMA.


----------



## BramSLI1

I have something that all of those that are using coolant dyes would be interested in knowing. I recently drained and inspected my loop and found that even though I'm using a blood red dye bomb from Primo Chill I didn't see any residue or build up in my loop. In fact the only thing that is stained is the tubing. I am running a dual pump configuration though so the increased flow rate might have something to do with the dye not settling and thus not clogging anything up. Just a piece of information that some of you might be interested in.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Is your second rad a matching rad, or did you go with another brand?
> 
> Does the second rad need it's own reservoir?


You want the second rad to have a res if that rad will be the one above the pump. I added a 320 rad at the top of my case so I got one with a res. The stock rad went in the bottom of my case. You want the res above the pump in the loop, so if you are adding a rad and end up putting the stock rad below the pump, then you would want the new rad to have a res.


----------



## TeeBlack

they say Newegg and Microcenter suppose to be getting them in a week or two if im not mistaken.


----------



## Phishy714

I think I might have a faulty pump









First time water-cooling here,

I am running an Asus Maximus V Formula motherboard on the latest bios. I decided to do a semi-custom loop, so I uninstalled everything and started from scratch. Basically, I hava reservoir -> pump/cpu block -> gpu block -> 2nd 240 rad -> H220 rad -> res.

Everything ran fine for the first few days, but I have started seeing a weird anomaly. I am using push/pull on both rads, with 6 of the fans being controlled via PMW along with the pump. The pump is connected to CHA-1 on the little 8-way splitter that came with the H220 and that is connected to the motherboard's CPU fan slot (which is PMW).

Anyways, the pump sometimes stops working and turns on and stops and turns on. I get an error that you see in the pic below that says fan is at 0 rpm and the temps start going weird. Thing to note: The fans themselves that are connected to the splitter never turn off, nor do they seem to slow down at any given point.



Then out of nowhere, it will "fix" itself, except the temps never go down to the 20's where it normally is under idle. They will just sit iddle in the mid 30's.



Any idea what may be causing this or a possible fix? I would like to avoid having to redo my loop since it took a while for me to get just right hehe. Here's a bad pic of it:


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I think I might have a faulty pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything ran fine for the first few days, but I have started seeing a weird anomaly.
> 
> Anyways, the pump sometimes stops working and turns on and stops and turns on. I get an error that you see in the pic below that says fan is at 0 rpm and the temps start going weird. Thing to note: The fans themselves that are connected to the splitter never turn off, nor do they seem to slow down at any given point.
> 
> Then out of nowhere, it will "fix" itself, except the temps never go down to the 20's where it normally is under idle. They will just sit iddle in the mid 30's.


My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*







I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.

Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


Wow. That doesn't sound like Swiftech!!!! Hope you get things worked out.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


Sorry to hear about your bad experience, but I'm sure it was just lost in the mail or something. Bryan has been very proactive about getting these things taken care of, and there's no reason he wouldn't do the same for you. Just give it a day (or usually a few hours) and I'm sure he'll see your post and contact you via PM







.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I think I might have a faulty pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time water-cooling here,
> 
> I am running an Asus Maximus V Formula motherboard on the latest bios. I decided to do a semi-custom loop, so I uninstalled everything and started from scratch. Basically, I hava reservoir -> pump/cpu block -> gpu block -> 2nd 240 rad -> H220 rad -> res.
> 
> Everything ran fine for the first few days, but I have started seeing a weird anomaly. I am using push/pull on both rads, with 6 of the fans being controlled via PMW along with the pump. The pump is connected to CHA-1 on the little 8-way splitter that came with the H220 and that is connected to the motherboard's CPU fan slot (which is PMW).
> 
> Anyways, the pump sometimes stops working and turns on and stops and turns on. I get an error that you see in the pic below that says fan is at 0 rpm and the temps start going weird. Thing to note: The fans themselves that are connected to the splitter never turn off, nor do they seem to slow down at any given point....


The AI Suite that you are using and which is giving you warnings is not reliable. It will give impossible numbers both high and low for rpms, voltages, and temps. Other software suffers from this occasionally also.

Have up multiple monitoring programs like Hardware Monitor, Speed Fan, and HWiNFO64 (with this one you can graph the CPU fan and temps) to monitor your temps and the rpms. It doesn't sound like you are seeing temps spike, so you need to find out if the pump is really stopping or it is just the standard software anomalies that report crazy high and low numbers for a second.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


I am not sure if you have an agenda, but no one else here has experienced anything like that with Swiftech customer service. No one just sends one email, never hears back then come on a board to complain weeks later. Does your telephone not work? Could you not send another email a couple days after the first or PM him here?

I am not saying any product is perfect and you can have some specific complaints about the H220, but based on everyone else's experience your rant sound a little over the top. Also, pretty much every manufacturer makes you send back the original unit when doing an RMA. Mobos have be sent back even when one attachment is bad, gpus need to be restored to original configuration when sent back even after you have put them under water, etc.

I am sorry you are having problems, but you could have had a new unit within a week or so if you had followed up.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


This sounds highly unlikely given the many reports we've seen of Swiftech's excellent support, and Brian's in particular. He certainly took care of my problem in short order and with absolute professionalism.


----------



## ez12a

I n++ the level of support i've gotten from both Gabe and Bryan at Swiftech. Very easy to work with.

For those building a custom loop out of their H220, I think the problem lies with trapped air in the pump itself. If your pump makes some noise I can only explain as a warbling or a "put-put" noise there is air trapped in it. This seems to happen even with the res as far above the pump as possible.

I think for best results you need to bleed air from the complete loop outside the case as shown in Swiftech's VGA extension video.

I spent a good part of saturday morning shaking my case and bleeding air from the res (CPU block was mounted) All is well and the pump is much quieter than even stock form. I would suggest everyone to top off their res. This is most important for those like me who have the fill port upside down. As soon as you start to hear the warbling noise, either shake or tilt your case (fill port needs the be pointed upwards), or shut the computer down and re-bleed your loop.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The AI Suite that you are using and which is giving you warnings is not reliable. It will give impossible numbers both high and low for rpms, voltages, and temps. Other software suffers from this occasionally also.
> 
> Have up multiple monitoring programs like Hardware Monitor, Speed Fan, and HWiNFO64 (with this one you can graph the CPU fan and temps) to monitor your temps and the rpms. *It doesn't sound like you are seeing temps spike, so you need to find out if the pump is really stopping or it is just the standard software anomalies that report crazy high and low numbers for a second.*


You might want to take a look at the pics I posted.

Tremendous temp spikes reported on MSI Afterburner. I can also hear the pump rev back up whenever it comes off of the "zero rpm' state. While I can't judge if it ever went to zero, I can judge when its spinning back up really high, so there is an anomaly there for sure. Also the temp spikes are in line with when I get the error messages. Sure enough when I see the 0rpm reading warning, my temps start to go up quite a bit, and then go back down and back up again. Best bet to look at the pics I posted.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> You might want to take a look at the pics I posted.
> 
> Tremendous temp spikes reported on MSI Afterburner. I can also hear the pump rev back up whenever it comes off of the "zero rpm' state. While I can't judge if it ever went to zero, I can judge when its spinning back up really high, so there is an anomaly there for sure. Also the temp spikes are in line with when I get the error messages. Sure enough when I see the 0rpm reading warning, my temps start to go up quite a bit, and then go back down and back up again. Best bet to look at the pics I posted.


OK, if it ran well for the first couple of days I don't think it's air trapped in your loop. I t may very well be that your pump has started to go out on you. I sent you a PM, but I'm not sure if it went through. Please send me a copy of your invoice for this kit to [email protected] so I can start processing your RMA request when I get into work tomorrow morning.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> My pump has this same problem *but I have to tap my finger on the pump to get it to start up again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend building your own loop then buying this AIO. I asked for a RMA and the guy acted like it was not my pump that was faulty. Then told me I had to stripe down my computer and send back the whole kit not just the pump/heatsink if the pump was indeed bad. I have tons of time invested in my loop and wire management. The only positive I have with the Swiftech H220 is the PWM splitter definitely not customer service or the Swiftech H220 unit itself.
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


Sent you a PM. I really don't know how I might have missed your email. We can make an exception though in your case and just have you send back the pump.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> You might want to take a look at the pics I posted.
> 
> Tremendous temp spikes reported on MSI Afterburner. I can also hear the pump rev back up whenever it comes off of the "zero rpm' state. While I can't judge if it ever went to zero, I can judge when its spinning back up really high, so there is an anomaly there for sure. Also the temp spikes are in line with when I get the error messages. Sure enough when I see the 0rpm reading warning, my temps start to go up quite a bit, and then go back down and back up again. Best bet to look at the pics I posted.


Sounds like you have a very similar issue that I had with my pump. Mine is currently in the process of being rma'ed, and the likely cause for my pump is faulty electronics (duty cycle adjustment) within the pump itself.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Were any design changes/fixes made to the new kits that are going out to MC and Newegg this week?

I realize that this is a forum, and therefore more problems than successes will always be posted, so what is the real failure rate for these kits? Are the vast majority of them problem-free?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Were any design changes/fixes made to the new kits that are going out to MC and Newegg this week?
> 
> I realize that this is a forum, and therefore more problems than successes will always be posted, so what is the real failure rate for these kits? Are the vast majority of them problem-free?


There are couple main issues they had in the initial production run but both are remedied moving forward. Gabe and the guys at Swiftech intercepted, flushed, and refilled ALL THE UNITS DUE FOR NEWEGG AND MICROCENTER (btw not shouting just emphasizing) and Gabe either left or is about to leave to Shen Zen to make sure the issue of contaminents in the fluid doesn't happen again (among other things), and in future shipments (but not the one for Newegg and Microcenter), the included PWM splitter will have a SATA connection rather than a Molex.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Were any design changes/fixes made to the new kits that are going out to MC and Newegg this week?
> 
> I realize that this is a forum, and therefore more problems than successes will always be posted, so what is the real failure rate for these kits? Are the vast majority of them problem-free?


Only Swiftech can answer that, unfortunately. Judging by the number of problems reported here by people who started posting before they ever received their units, I would guess that the problem rate was pretty high. Gabe said that 70% of the units they received back were disabled due to contaminants jamming the pump impellers. Seems that at least some of the remaining 30% are down to PCB and/or wiring issues.


----------



## ez12a

It is unfortunate. Hopefully they can improve upon the design as time goes on. This _is_ their first in house designed and manufactured pump. Early adopters always get it the hardest.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Only Swiftech can answer that, unfortunately. Judging by the number of problems reported here by people who started posting before they ever received their units, I would guess that the problem rate was pretty high. Gabe said that 70% of the units they received back were disabled due to contaminants jamming the pump impellers. Seems that at least some of the remaining 30% are down to PCB and/or wiring issues.


30% of what's probably a 6-7% failure rate is only about 2% of the units, which is pretty fair and can be accounted to normal manufacturing discrepencies.


----------



## circeseye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 30% of what's probably a 6-7% failure rate is only about 2% of the units, which is pretty fair and can be accounted to normal manufacturing discrepencies.


noooo the pump is horrable no one buy them you never know what your going to get. everyone do a return. (sarcasm)









seriously i hate when people start saying this crap. really!!! you out of 100's of units is bad so that makes the product unbuyable. i mean come on. its that way with every electronic devise you buy. and to boot this is brand new so yes there are going to be a few bad apples to which they learn from and make it a better product.
have patience people. these guys have an awesome customer service and are bending over backwards for everyone.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> noooo the pump is horrable no one buy them you never know what your going to get. everyone do a return. (sarcasm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously i hate when people start saying this crap. really!!! you out of 100's of units is bad so that makes the product unbuyable. i mean come on. its that way with every electronic devise you buy. and to boot this is brand new so yes there are going to be a few bad apples to which they learn from and make it a better product.
> have patience people. these guys have an awesome customer service and are bending over backwards for everyone.


I agree with everything you said there -- especially the part about their awesome service and good intentions. I'm just trying to get a feel for the quality control s compared to DIY options.

I'm also glad to hear that they're personally testing/flushing every unit before forwarding them on to the retailers. That bodes very well for the new batch!

If you can't tell, I suffer from a touch of engineering OCD when I do anything. You should see the research and spreadsheets I've created for all my other rigs, my mountain bike, and my customized Jeep Wrangler... lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 30% of what's probably a 6-7% failure rate is only about 2% of the units, which is pretty fair and can be accounted to normal manufacturing discrepencies.


Actually our data shows that it's about 4%. We have implemented the necessary changes to prevent the issues with debris and the electronics that have caused nearly all of the pump issues.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually our data shows that it's about 4%. We have implemented the necessary changes to prevent the issues with debris and the electronics that have caused nearly all of the pump issues.


Even better







. I was mainly throwing a number out there to give more context to the situation. With a 4% failure rate, that equates to barely over 1% for electrical issues







.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually our data shows that it's about 4%. We have implemented the necessary changes to prevent the issues with debris and the electronics that have caused nearly all of the pump issues.


Wow, ok, that's great to hear. I appreciate both the info and your honesty! I'll definitely grab one next week to begin my setup, along with all the necessary additional parts I'll need for my two gpu's.

Should I order all the additional parts (res, barbs, clamps, tubing, etc) from Newegg, as well, or directly from Swiftech?


----------



## TeeBlack

oops nevermind


----------



## Dhalmel

Just wondering if this will be on amazon? Recently got a Gift Card with Amazon.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The AI Suite that you are using and which is giving you warnings is not reliable. It will give impossible numbers both high and low for rpms, voltages, and temps. Other software suffers from this occasionally also.
> 
> Have up multiple monitoring programs like Hardware Monitor, Speed Fan, and HWiNFO64 (with this one you can graph the CPU fan and temps) to monitor your temps and the rpms. It doesn't sound like you are seeing temps spike, so you need to find out if the pump is really stopping or it is just the standard software anomalies that report crazy high and low numbers for a second.


When I do a cold boot or restart and my bios tells me that my CPU fan is not connected please hit F1 to enter bios. Then I proceed to my bios and my CPU header is showing 0 RPMs. I then tap on the pump a few times with my finger and wale-la I see the RPMs posted from my pump in the bios again and I can boot into Windows! I have not had the pump stop while my computer was running, just on restarts and or cold boots.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I am not sure if you have an agenda, but no one else here has experienced anything like that with Swiftech customer service. No one just sends one email, never hears back then come on a board to complain weeks later. Does your telephone not work? Could you not send another email a couple days after the first or PM him here?


One email? Where did I say I only sent one email? I sent one stating my problem. They emailed me back asking me a few questions about my problem. I then responded to that email and answered all questions that they had askedme. Where do you think I got the name "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" from? Thin air?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I am not saying any product is perfect and you can have some specific complaints about the H220, but based on everyone else's experience your rant sound a little over the top.


Nor am I. But I do not see my post as a rant but info for the next person weighting out the options between Corsair and Swiftech AIO. I know I had a Corsair PSU go bad and it was +4yrs old and they sent me a brand new reversion version two.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Also, pretty much every manufacturer makes you send back the original unit when doing an RMA. Mobos have be sent back even when one attachment is bad, gpus need to be restored to original configuration when sent back even after you have put them under water, etc.


Ever RMA a Asus motherboard, EVGA video card, Abit motherboard, Samsung TV or computer monitor, Logitech mouse or a Creative sound card? Do any of these companies ask for the manuals, CDs, IO shields, mounting hardware and cables back for an RMA? I know I have been building my own computers for many many years now. My 1st watercooling loop had 2x 80mm radiators with 2x 80mmx38mm Tornado fans, it sounded like a vacuum was running none stop at my house







I have done a few RMAs in the past I did not have to include all the extras just the defective part itself. Heck Asus will even cross ship when you use there RMA process. Like I said just letting people know what happened to me. I probably should have listened to my gut and stuck w/ Corsair H100i since I have had excellent experience in the past with there Customer Service and using there RMA process with memory and PSU's.

Ty for not helping in my matter at all Oldman. Until you have 1st hand experience with Swiftechs RMA service instead of what you have read on the forums. Maybe you do have experience with there RMA process and it all went well. In which case I am very happy for you. This is my experience. So please just hold onto your 2cents next time and worry less about your post count if you cannot help with solving the problem. After all this is a help forum where people take time out of there day to help others not just to hang out.








Quote:


> AdamMT
> 
> This sounds highly unlikely given the many reports we've seen of Swiftech's excellent support, and Brian's in particular. He certainly took care of my problem in short order and with absolute professionalism.


I hear you Adam. Before I bought the H220 I actually called Swiftech to ask a few questions about the H220 AIO. I talked to a person named Gabe and he was very friendly, straight forward and took the time to answered all my questions and concerns about the product they sell. This is way I took a shot in the dark and bought the H220. Just like before I open up any account now days. I want to make sure I call customer service to see how well they handle a situation before I proceed with any further actions. If I do not like what I hear from a business on the phone or I cannot understand them over the phone I will look else where.

Either way it looks like posting here helped cause I now have a PM from a Swiftech rep I believe. I will update with my 1st hand experience using Swiftechs RMA process. *crosses fingers*

Thank you all for your help and sorry if I offended anyone, that was definitely not my intent







I am here to learn and share my experience like everyone else.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Edit: I should add why I said customer service also. This is because I sent a email to "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" on 3/25 and still have not heard anything back from Swiftech.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> One email? Where did I say I only sent one email? I sent one stating my problem. They emailed me back asking me a few questions about my problem. I then responded to that email and answered all questions that they had askedme. Where do you think I got the name "Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team" from? Thin air?


You seem to be a very confused person. Those are your quotes and they directly contradict each other.

I have experience with Switchtech, its employees, and its RMA process. I have also read every post in this thread. Your childish rant is contrary to pretty much everyone else's experience with them. I am sure they will address your situation. Don't worry I will not reply to you again, any continued exchange is not helpful to this thread.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sent you a PM. I really don't know how I might have missed your email. We can make an exception though in your case and just have you send back the pump.


No problem. I am not looking for special treatment. In the 1st email I receive from customer support made it sound like they wanted all the hardware, manuals, PWM controller and the fans. I am worried that if I do an RMA that I may get it back and I will be missing some hardware or a fan will not work. Then my computer will be down even longer. I know when I did my 1st Abit motherboard RMA I put the IO shield in with the motherboard and when I received my refurbished motherboard I was missing the IO shield when I got it back. That is why I asked in my emails if I could just send in the pump, heat sink and radiator.

Thank you for your time and I will post back in a PM Bram.


----------



## Pure2sin

I personally can say the Swiftech has been GREAT to me so far even with the RMA process and customer service.

Looks like it's being taken care of so I think it is pointless to muddy this thread anymore.

Lets move on.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> I hear you Adam. Before I bought the H220 I actually called Swiftech to ask a few questions about the H220 AIO. I talked to a person named Gabe and he was very friendly, straight forward and took the time to answered all my questions and concerns about the product they sell. This is way I took a shot in the dark and bought the H220.


I don't want to beat a dead horse, but FYI, the person named Gabe you spoke to is the founder and CEO of Swiftech and I think it speaks volumes that he's still taking customer phone calls and personally answering questions. I'm sure they'll get your problem squared away ASAP.


----------



## AlDyer

For the defence of Swiftech im having a great experience with my RMA. Mr. Ramirez or BramSLI here @ OCN has been incredibly helpful (Thank you!). They promised to test my unit personally too. They shipped a new unit before I even sent mine, which clearly indicates that they trust their customers and care about us but ofcourse I still understand your frustration.


----------



## Electroneng

Thread Cleaned!

Please focus on the thread topic without personal attacks.

Thanks


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> Just wondering if this will be on amazon? Recently got a Gift Card with Amazon.


From what I understand, Swiftech does not have a direct relationship with Amazon, so the only way you would see them on there is within a 3rd party's merchandise listings, which is still a distinct possibility in the future.
If that's changed since pre-launch, someone correct me!

Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

Ran Small FFTs and Furmark for 7 hours overnight and here are the temps with an overclocked 670 in the loop running Furmark with an extra 120mm rad







:

I believe the GPU has gone up to approx 50-51C during the hottest parts. Not bad when it was 70C before water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> From what I understand, Swiftech does not have a direct relationship with Amazon, so the only way you would see them on there is within a 3rd party's merchandise listings, which is still a distinct possibility in the future.
> If that's changed since pre-launch, someone correct me!
> 
> Thanks - T


You are correct sir.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You are correct sir.


FIRST TIME TODAY!!! It's already nearly 11, and I've talked to my wife a half a dozen times, but I'm _finally_ right!

Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> FIRST TIME TODAY!!! It's already nearly 11, and I've talked to my wife a half a dozen times, but I'm _finally_ right!
> 
> Thanks - T


Hahahahahahahahahaha

I know THAT feeling!


----------



## Diablo85

Anyone else watching newegg and microcenter's websites like a hawk waiting for the 220 to show up in stock?


----------



## BramSLI1

Here's an update on WiSH2oo0's RMA request. We were waiting for him to send us a copy of his invoice and he never did. I checked my emails this morning and that's what I found. That's why he wasn't issued an RMA for his kit. He did provide me with a copy of the invoice this morning and we'll be sending out a replacement pump to him this afternoon. I'm guessing that he assumed that we would be completely inflexible with regards to getting everything back that was included with his original kit. We can make exceptions in certain cases, but we would prefer to get everything back that way we can just send an entirely new unit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Anyone else watching newegg and microcenter's websites like a hawk waiting for the 220 to show up in stock?


I'll let you guys know as soon as we send out their kits. This is going to take a few more days or so because we're still in the process of flushing and 100% testing them. I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll let you guys know as soon as we send out their kits. This is going to take a few more days or so because we're still in the process of flushing and 100% testing them. I'll keep you all posted.


I think I can speak for all of us when I say that we appreciate the 100% testing, and it far outweighs any issues anyone should/would have with the small delay. :thumbup:


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quick question: where can/should I order all the extra parts I need to add my two gpu's to the loop? Directly from Swiftech? Are those parts available now?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Quick question: where can/should I order all the extra parts I need to add my two gpu's to the loop? Directly from Swiftech? Are those parts available now?


Do you have room for more rads? Those you can get from Swiftech to match the H220. You can also get more black tubing if that is what you want, and the fittings you need also. First though you should decide on the water blocks, they have universal ones, or you can go for a full cover block. It just depends on your budget and what you want your loop to look like. Which gpus do you have?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Quick question: where can/should I order all the extra parts I need to add my two gpu's to the loop? Directly from Swiftech? Are those parts available now?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Do you have room for more rads? Those you can get from Swiftech to match the H220. You can also get more black tubing if that is what you want, and the fittings you need also. First though you should decide on the water blocks, they have universal ones, or you can go for a full cover block. It just depends on your budget and what you want your loop to look like. Which gpus do you have?


Bear in mind that they are OOS on a lot of things... I'm checking their 7900 series Komodo full cover blocks every day because I'm gonna snatch one ASAP, but because of the factory transition, they're still down for a bit.

Thanks - T


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's an update on WiSH2oo0's RMA request. We were waiting for him to send us a copy of his invoice and he never did. I checked my emails this morning and that's what I found. That's why he wasn't issued an RMA for his kit. He did provide me with a copy of the invoice this morning and we'll be sending out a replacement pump to him this afternoon. I'm guessing that he assumed that we would be completely inflexible with regards to getting everything back that was included with his original kit. We can make exceptions in certain cases, but we would prefer to get everything back that way we can just send an entirely new unit.


Nicely done.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Do you have room for more rads? Those you can get from Swiftech to match the H220. You can also get more black tubing if that is what you want, and the fittings you need also. First though you should decide on the water blocks, they have universal ones, or you can go for a full cover block. It just depends on your budget and what you want your loop to look like. Which gpus do you have?


My setup:
GPU: 2 x Powercolor AX7870 Myst Edition in Crossfire
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CASE: Fractal Designs Arc Midi R2

Well, this is what I'm looking at so far...
(1) Swiftech H220 Kit
(2) Swiftech MCW82 Universal GPU waterblock
(1) Swiftech MCR220-QP-K 240mm Radiator
(1) Swiftech MC800 SMC Cooling Kit
(1) Swiftech HW-MNFD-2X-3P-BK-R1 Crossfire Bridge, 2.4" spacing
(1) MC14 BGA Memory Heatsink Kit
(1) Tubing, Clear (TBD)
(6) 120mm Fans (TBD -- internals will be blue LED)
(?) Barbs (TBD)
(?) Compression fittings (TBD)
(?) Clamps (TBD)
(?) Coolant (TBD -- I want it to be blue or green in color)

As you can see, I have a lot of "TBD" in that list; and, since I'm a WC noob, I could probably use some professional advice!

The price is also creeping up way higher than I had hoped -- probably totaling well over $400 at this point -- so, I'm also seriously considering three separate loops using a dedicated Zalman lq-320 (aka "Red Mod") on each GPU and the Swiftech H220 for the CPU (total price: $230)


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> My setup:
> GPU: 2 x Powercolor AX7870 Myst Edition in Crossfire
> CPU: Intel i5 3570K
> MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> CASE: Fractal Designs Arc Midi R2
> 
> Well, this is what I'm looking at so far...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (1) Swiftech H220 Kit
> (2) Swiftech MCW82 Universal GPU waterblock
> (1) Swiftech MCR220-QP-K 240mm Radiator
> (1) Swiftech MC800 SMC Cooling Kit
> (1) Swiftech HW-MNFD-2X-3P-BK-R1 Crossfire Bridge, 2.4" spacing
> (1) MC14 BGA Memory Heatsink Kit
> (1) Tubing, Clear (TBD)
> (6) 120mm Fans (TBD -- internals will be blue LED)
> (?) Barbs (TBD)
> (?) Compression fittings (TBD)
> (?) Clamps (TBD)
> (?) Coolant (TBD -- I want it to be blue or green in color)
> 
> As you can see, I have a lot of "TBD" in that list; and, since I'm a WC noob, I could probably use some professional advice!
> 
> The price is also creeping up way higher than I had hoped -- probably totaling well over $400 at this point -- so, I'm also seriously considering three separate loops using a dedicated Zalman lq-315 (aka "Red Mod") on each GPU and the Swiftech H220 for the CPU (total price: $220)


Someone with more experience can chime in, but I have read that you are better off getting colored tubing than getting clear tubing and worrying about the coolant color. I have heard that clear tubing can get stained and cloudy. You can use the new blue H220 coolant and then get blue or green tubing

I have a full cover block, so I can't tell you much about the universal one and heatsinks you have listed. Bryan at Swiftech can definitely help you to make sure you order exactly what you need for that.

I bought their QP rads also to match with the H220. If you end up putting one rad at the top and one at the bottom like I did you can consider getting your second rad with a res built in. It is an option on those rads and only a few dollars more. That way you have a res at the top and bottom, but the real point is to have a fill point at the top and drain point at the bottom of the loop.

Fittings seem to be a matter of choice. It seems to me that the compressions fittings are the most secure, so that is what I chose to use. As I posted previously there is a little trouble with PrimoChill tubing and Swiftech compressions fittings, so if you use compression I would probably go with XSPC tubing since a few members here say they had good luck with it.

As far as price goes, you are right that water cooling is not cheap, and you have two gpus which only adds to the cost. I honestly don't know the performance difference between three loops and one, but for me I like things more straightforward so I would definitely go with one loop. I am also not sure how you could fit two LQ 315 in there with both gpus. I would think the one loop would be measurably quieter also.


----------



## nagle3092

Swiftech H2O-X20 Elite Series Dual 120mm Liquid Cooling Kit

Price = $239.95

Fedex 2 Day delivery so it arrives on my day off to be setup

Price = $43.99

The moment you open the package and


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Realize there is only 2 compression fittings out of the 4.


Well no loop for me today.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Swiftech H2O-X20 Elite Series Dual 120mm Liquid Cooling Kit
> 
> Price = $239.95
> 
> Fedex 2 Day delivery so it arrives on my day off to be setup
> 
> Price = $43.99
> 
> The moment you open the package and
> 
> Well no loop for me today.


Hey nagle3092, just send us a copy of your invoice for the kit and we'll send out two more black, compression fittings today. Just send it to [email protected] I'm sorry, but sometimes things like this happen. We'll get you taken care of though.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Hey nagle3092, just send us a copy of your invoice for the kit and we'll send out two more black, compression fittings today. Just send it to [email protected] I'm sorry, but sometimes things like this happen. We'll get you taken care of though.


Yeah I already called and talk to Michelle and sent her my invoice. No worries, I know it happens sometimes. I wasn't very happy after I realized that I was missing 2 but what can I do. At least Ill have some time to figure out where Im going to mount the rad now.


----------



## SDBolts619

Should I win the Win Your Ultimate Rig contest, here's what I'm thinking:

Replace my GTX 660 Ti cards with GTX 680 Ti FTW cards.
Add EK FC680 GTX Acetal/Nickel waterblocks and an EK Dual SLI Bridge.
Add a Black Ice Stealth GT 120mm radiator at the top of my case.
Swiftech compression fittings and XSPC Blue tubing.
Loop would go 220 radiator --> CPU --> 120 radiator --> video cards --> 220 radiator. Should work with no issues, right?

Of course, I have to win first, because that shopping list is already at about $1,500. Then I have to get my hands on 3 2560x1440 monitors...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Should I win the Win Your Ultimate Rig contest, here's what I'm thinking:
> 
> Replace my GTX 660 Ti cards with GTX 680 Ti FTW cards.
> Add EK FC680 GTX Acetal/Nickel waterblocks and an EK Dual SLI Bridge.
> Add a Black Ice Stealth GT 120mm radiator at the top of my case.
> Swiftech compression fittings and XSPC Blue tubing.
> Loop would go 220 radiator --> CPU --> 120 radiator --> video cards --> 220 radiator. Should work with no issues, right?
> 
> Of course, I have to win first, because that shopping list is already at about $1,500. Then I have to get my hands on 3 2560x1440 monitors...


My answer would be no, because there are not enough Swiftech products in your loop.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Should I win the Win Your Ultimate Rig contest, here's what I'm thinking:
> 
> Replace my GTX 660 Ti cards with GTX 680 Ti FTW cards.
> Add EK FC680 GTX Acetal/Nickel waterblocks and an EK Dual SLI Bridge.
> Add a Black Ice Stealth GT 120mm radiator at the top of my case.
> Swiftech compression fittings and XSPC Blue tubing.
> Loop would go 220 radiator --> CPU --> 120 radiator --> video cards --> 220 radiator. Should work with no issues, right?
> 
> Of course, I have to win first, because that shopping list is already at about $1,500. Then I have to get my hands on 3 2560x1440 monitors...


The extra 120mm rad might not be enough with two vid cards + cpu under water.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> My answer would be no, because there are not enough Swiftech products in your loop.


Hmm, I see. And what is the model number for a Swiftech full coverage GTX 680 block? If you want to 'sponsor' my build, I'd accept a Swiftech MCRx20-XP radiator and those compression fittings.









Of course, it's all a moot point if I don't happen to win the contest since I don't have $2,500 more to blow on my rig...


----------



## WizardontheJob

I finally finished my build and wanted to post some pics. Hope you enjoy staring at them as much as I do









After a rough start with 2 bad pumps, I finally found a winner!

My goal in this project was to create a quiet yet powerful media center PC capable of doing much more than your grandmothers media PC. After replacing most of the fan cooling solutions with liquid, I realized that most of the leftover noise was coming from the 2 1TB hdds that I had in a RAID 1, so I removed them. They were getting really hot anyway (in the 70's!







). Well they got moved to a computer in another room. Also, I found a couple of black lights that I had sitting in a drawer for about 10 years. They really brought to life the semi translucent blue tubing that I put in.









I'm not ultra-excited about my final load temps, but the system _is_ 600mhz overclocked and my video card too, and the temps _are_ within acceptable limits (and thats with both furmark and prime95 running simultaneously)... perhaps a triple rad is what I need?

This has been and will continue to be a fun build. I am constantly making improvements when I find another way to make it cooler (literally and figuratively). For instance, after overclocking and poking around with a thermal gun, I realized that there are plenty of 'hot spots' like mosfets out in the open on my board that could use some little coolers. So I'm now waiting on some little 6mm x 6mm heatsinks and some little 20mm fans to place strategically around my board.

Would love to hear your comments and/or suggestions!


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> The extra 120mm rad might not be enough with two vid cards + cpu under water.


I would be inclined to agree under normal circumstances. However, with the case I have and being delidded, my CPU is maxing right now at 64 degrees running P95 at 4.5ghz, 1.270 VCore, so I think I have some thermal headroom available and wouldn't want to go outside the case for another radiator.

I could conceivably change out the 220 radiator for dual 140mm or maybe even a triple 120mm, but then I'd be giving up my integrated reservoir and would need to add one to the system, so more money involved.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I finally finished my build and wanted to post some pics. Hope you enjoy staring at them as much as I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a rough start with 2 bad pumps, I finally found a winner!
> 
> My goal in this project was to create a quiet yet powerful media center PC capable of doing much more than your grandmothers media PC. After replacing most of the fan cooling solutions with liquid, I realized that most of the leftover noise was coming from the 2 1TB hdds that I had in a RAID 1, so I removed them. They were getting really hot anyway (in the 70's!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Well they got moved to a computer in another room. Also, I found a couple of black lights that I had sitting in a drawer for about 10 years. They really brought to life the semi translucent blue tubing that I put in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not ultra-excited about my final load temps, but the system _is_ 600mhz overclocked and my video card too, and the temps _are_ within acceptable limits (and thats with both furmark and prime95 running simultaneously)... perhaps a triple rad is what I need?
> 
> This has been and will continue to be a fun build. I am constantly making improvements when I find another way to make it cooler (literally and figuratively). For instance, after overclocking and poking around with a thermal gun, I realized that there are plenty of 'hot spots' like mosfets out in the open on my board that could use some little coolers. So I'm now waiting on some little 6mm x 6mm heatsinks and some little 20mm fans to place strategically around my board.
> 
> Would love to hear your comments and/or suggestions!


That's a pretty sweet setup. Very impressive for what it's doing. But, if you don't mind me asking - what's the point in overclocking the system for a media server? Isn't it simply supplying content to various devices on the network? If so, the CPU speed and GPU are pretty much irrelevant - the only real question is read/write speeds for the data and transfer speeds, right?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Hmm, I see. And what is the model number for a Swiftech full coverage GTX 680 block? If you want to 'sponsor' my build, I'd accept a Swiftech MCRx20-XP radiator and those compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, it's all a moot point if I don't happen to win the contest since I don't have $2,500 more to blow on my rig...


The only way to get a Swiftech Nvidia full block is to buy the EVGA Hydrocopper 680, 690, or Titan (the later is what I want







). Swiftech makes Nvidia full cover blocks exclusively for EVGA with the EVGA logo instead of Swiftech's.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Isn't it simply supplying content to various devices on the network?


Not at all as a matter of fact! This is my main gamer/netflixer/whatever you need it for PC. I wanted to be able to play all my games in the big screen. What you cant see in the picture is a game chair/coffee table that I made. It gives me a place to sit closer to the tv than the couch and has a mouse platform built into the arm rest.

I first had the idea when I tried to play WoW from my couch. I could see everything for the most part, but the txt was really hard to make out. But the couch is great for sitting back with the GF and playing games that have xbox style game controller support like Rayman and Trine2.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> we're still in the process of flushing and 100% testing them. I'll keep you all posted.


Curious to what kind of conditions you test them under. My pump only seems to fail when the GPU or CPU are under heavy load, I am assuming it has to do with either the higher temperatures or RPM.
Last night I was running my card under load with a certain overclock for a quite sometime, leveling off at 60c. I then changed to my highest stable overclock, in about a minute the temperatures got to about 66c, then the pump failed, at 85% speed. It always runs again after cooling down.

I will test later if setting a fixed pump speed, as opposed to a temp curve, has any effect. I have been running the fans and pump on the same PWM, so I will also try having the pump on a low PWM setting and the fans just running off the splitter at 100%.


----------



## ez12a

seems like suddenly these heat correlated pump shut off issues are coming out of the woodwork.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> Curious to what kind of conditions you test them under. My pump only seems to fail when the GPU or CPU are under heavy load, I am assuming it has to do with either the higher temperatures or RPM.
> Last night I was running my card under load with a certain overclock for a quite sometime, leveling off at 60c. I then changed to my highest stable overclock, in about a minute the temperatures got to about 66c, then the pump failed, at 85% speed. It always runs again after cooling down.
> 
> I will test later if setting a fixed pump speed, as opposed to a temp curve, has any effect. I have been running the fans and pump on the same PWM, so I will also try having the pump on a low PWM setting and the fans just running off the splitter at 100%.


Ya this sounds alot like the issue I had. I tried many different connection combinations with the pwm splitter and my motherboard, but it ending up being the electronics in the pump that was bad.

I did not discover the issue with my pump either until I played a game that stressed both my gpu (using higher AA and supersample) and cpu causing the temperature to go over 65.

Just contact Swiftech, explain your problem and they will take care of you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> Curious to what kind of conditions you test them under. My pump only seems to fail when the GPU or CPU are under heavy load, I am assuming it has to do with either the higher temperatures or RPM.
> Last night I was running my card under load with a certain overclock for a quite sometime, leveling off at 60c. I then changed to my highest stable overclock, in about a minute the temperatures got to about 66c, then the pump failed, at 85% speed. It always runs again after cooling down.
> 
> I will test later if setting a fixed pump speed, as opposed to a temp curve, has any effect. I have been running the fans and pump on the same PWM, so I will also try having the pump on a low PWM setting and the fans just running off the splitter at 100%.


Sent you a PM so that I can try and trouble shoot this from our end. Let me know if this would be possible for you.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Right now it seems the conditions for a pump failure is when it is running above 80% and my GPU is above 60c.
I can't get my CPU running Prime95 to cause it, seemingly because it doesn't go over 60c,


----------



## Sarah M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quick Update:
> 
> We received a few hundred kits last Friday (that shipped by Ocean from our factory over a month ago).
> 
> Just so you know, we are emptying every single one of these units, flushing and replacing the coolant to eliminate any contamination issues.
> 
> These units are next in line for shipping to MicroCenters and NewEgg next week.
> 
> G-


HI all, my H220 arrived here in Oz all the way from Finland and it is working great!! It is cooling on average a whole 10 degrees over the Intel water cooler that it has replaced. I am concerned however, that it might be one of the first batch. Is there any way to tell? and do I need to flush it out in view of the above?


----------



## Sarah M

I meant to add that I am using four Swiftech fans in push pull to achieve this in a Thermaltake Chaser Mk1 case with the H220 on top. The case is excellent for this kind of thing in my opinion.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> seems like suddenly these heat correlated pump shut off issues are coming out of the woodwork.


I can't make sense of the temp notes. I put the H220 way up there in temps dialing fan speed to 800. I managed to throttle my 3930k in this test, then bumped fan speed to 890 which passed. Never noticed any pump stop related things happening, so not sure.










Never tried a gpu in the loop though. Almost bought an mcw82 to test on my old 570gtx but I don't have the $ to burn on an old gpu.

I figured my 3930 would have been enough to max out heat levels.

Wish I could have tested a CPU + GPU based loop for you guys, but no luck..sorry. Still running my 570gtx on air and don't want to spend $100 putting an old card under water just for testing purposes.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> seems like suddenly these heat correlated pump shut off issues are coming out of the woodwork.


I think this issue isn't really related to heat, but rather to the pump speed that the mobo dictates as a result of reaching a certain cpu heat, so more likely something to do with the pump electronics at x speed.


----------



## ez12a

the problem i had was very similar but still occurred when the pump was powered by the splitter with an entirely different PSU and not PWM controlled. it would shut off when the computer was booting windows and then it would try turning on every few seconds. After shutting the computer off, give it a few minutes and the pump will resume working. I'm not going to say that it's 100% heat related because I dismounted the pump while it was doing its power off/on thing and the cold plate wasnt hot at all. Strange. Could just be the PWM electronics maybe.

Either way Bryan has my old pump now and when he has the time will let me know what he finds. Service from Swiftech has been excellent in that regard. Gabe actually responded to my email after working hours the same day. New pump I received 2 days later is working perfectly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> HI all, my H220 arrived here in Oz all the way from Finland and it is working great!! It is cooling on average a whole 10 degrees over the Intel water cooler that it has replaced. I am concerned however, that it might be one of the first batch. Is there any way to tell? and do I need to flush it out in view of the above?


If it's working properly then you shouldn't need to flush it. I believe the ones that we sent to Europe were flushed before we shipped them anyway. If you have any concerns or need any assistance, just send me a PM. I'm on here a lot, even when I'm not working, so this site is a good place to reach me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I finally finished my build and wanted to post some pics. Hope you enjoy staring at them as much as I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a rough start with 2 bad pumps, I finally found a winner!
> 
> My goal in this project was to create a quiet yet powerful media center PC capable of doing much more than your grandmothers media PC. After replacing most of the fan cooling solutions with liquid, I realized that most of the leftover noise was coming from the 2 1TB hdds that I had in a RAID 1, so I removed them. They were getting really hot anyway (in the 70's!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Well they got moved to a computer in another room. Also, I found a couple of black lights that I had sitting in a drawer for about 10 years. They really brought to life the semi translucent blue tubing that I put in.
> 
> I'm not ultra-excited about my final load temps, but the system _is_ 600mhz overclocked and my video card too, and the temps _are_ within acceptable limits (and thats with both furmark and prime95 running simultaneously)... perhaps a triple rad is what I need?
> 
> This has been and will continue to be a fun build. I am constantly making improvements when I find another way to make it cooler (literally and figuratively). For instance, after overclocking and poking around with a thermal gun, I realized that there are plenty of 'hot spots' like mosfets out in the open on my board that could use some little coolers. So I'm now waiting on some little 6mm x 6mm heatsinks and some little 20mm fans to place strategically around my board.
> 
> Would love to hear your comments and/or suggestions!


That's a gorgeous looking rig, particularly with the lights out! Really good job and I'm glad it's working well for you.


----------



## mikuli040

My second pump is dying CPU fan connector, the same thing


----------



## Diablo85

edit: nvm.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> My second pump is dying CPU fan connector, the same thing


Sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get this resolved one way or another.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> My second pump is dying CPU fan connector, the same thing


I see you have something plugged into the CPU header. is the pump or pump splitter plugged into another 4 pin? You have to be careful, becaues the CHA_FAN_1 4 pin on my P8Z68 is voltage controlled despite being a 4 pin header. I tested it last night and am running a 3 pin gentle typhoon on it. (this wasnt the cause of my particular problem though)

Plug your pump into the CPU header where it technically should be and see if the problem goes away. Swiftech has stated that you shouldnt be controlling the pump via 3 pin/voltage.

link to my mobo manual:

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z68-V_PRO_GEN3/E6850_P8Z68-V_PRO_GEN3.pdf

its on page 2-2.

plug in a 3 pin fan and if it changes speeds on that header, its voltage controlled.


----------



## mikuli040

I had a cord attached to the CPU FAN connector in the past but the result is always the same, I tried out just how it will react in a different terminal, and in this case it was the CHA FAN connector 3. The pump is indeed something strange noises all the time.It is now switched back to the CPU FAN connector, see what happens.


----------



## ez12a

let us know how it goes. From my experience, Asus board fan headers are grouped by the following:

CPU FAN (4pin) and CPU OPT (4pin) are controlled with the same % despite being separate headers. Maybe even on the same circuit. Probably designed for push/pull on the CPU heatsink. Both controlled by a single adjustment. These are true PWM headers. My h220 is plugged into CPU FAN, splitter into CPU OPT.

CHA_FAN (3 pin) and CHA_FAN_1 (4pin) are both voltage controlled despite being physically different in type. Both controlled by a single adjustment.

PWR_FAN (3 pin) and all of the other PWR labeled headers are always on and not adjustable.

TL;DR, there are only 2 fan adjustments to be made. 2 headers for each.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> I had a cord attached to the CPU FAN connector in the past but the result is always the same, I tried out just how it will react in a different terminal, and in this case it was the CHA FAN connector 3. The pump is indeed something strange noises all the time.It is now switched back to the CPU FAN connector, see what happens.


If it's also making some strange noises it could simply be that your coolant has some debris in it. Do you think you could flush and refill your kit if I walked you through it? I can send you another bottle of PM2 coolant if you're located here in the US or Canada. Let me know if this is possible for you and we'll go from there.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> let us know how it goes. From my experience, Asus board fan headers are grouped by the following:
> 
> CPU FAN (4pin) and CPU OPT (4pin) are controlled with the same % despite being separate headers. Maybe even on the same circuit. Probably designed for push/pull on the CPU heatsink. Both controlled by a single adjustment. These are true PWM headers. My h220 is plugged into CPU FAN, splitter into CPU OPT.
> 
> CHA_FAN (3 pin) and CHA_FAN_1 (4pin) are both voltage controlled despite being physically different in type. Both controlled by a single adjustment.
> 
> PWR_FAN (3 pin) and all of the other PWR labeled headers are always on and not adjustable.
> 
> TL;DR, there are only 2 fan adjustments to be made. 2 headers for each.


My Asus board (Sabertooth X79) has all four-pin fan headers, but only the two cpu fan headers are PWM. The rest are voltage controlled.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> My Asus board (Sabertooth X79) has all four-pin fan headers, but only the two cpu fan headers are PWM. The rest are voltage controlled.


good to know. Dang shame that its not really specified in the manual and has to be determined manually.


----------



## kingduqc

So i'm gearing up for updating my old phenom 2 (waiting haswell) and after looking around to get a better cooling solution i though the h220 would be the best. Never really watercooled but want to get a nice cool and quiet pc so it seem to be the way to go. Is it worth the money over an h100i? (Might change the fans for Noctuas one, heard they are the best for quiet performance.)


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> So i'm gearing up for updating my old phenom 2 (waiting haswell) and after looking around to get a better cooling solution i though the h220 would be the best. Never really watercooled but want to get a nice cool and quiet pc so it seem to be the way to go. Is it worth the money over an h100i? (Might change the fans for Noctuas one, heard they are the best for quiet performance.)


if you have no plans on expanding your loop to include a GPU or something rather in the future, h100i will work fine.

if you have the slightest inclination that you'll want to tinker around with it and add more things like a GPU or radiator, then yes, h220.

if you end up buying Noctuas for the h100i, you might as well just buy the h220 since that'll bring them both to the same cost. The h220 then offers many more benefits. And yeah, i had the h100i and the fans are as loud as they say. Well over 50db at max.

Martin's test:


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> So i'm gearing up for updating my old phenom 2 (waiting haswell) and after looking around to get a better cooling solution i though the h220 would be the best. Never really watercooled but want to get a nice cool and quiet pc so it seem to be the way to go. Is it worth the money over an h100i? (Might change the fans for Noctuas one, heard they are the best for quiet performance.)


the h220 is more quiet than the H100i. the H100i fans are loud. since you said you'd probably switch to noctua fans id go with the h220. the helix fans that come with the h220 are not bad at all.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> So i'm gearing up for updating my old phenom 2 (waiting haswell) and after looking around to get a better cooling solution i though the h220 would be the best. Never really watercooled but want to get a nice cool and quiet pc so it seem to be the way to go. Is it worth the money over an h100i? (Might change the fans for Noctuas one, heard they are the best for quiet performance.)


the h220 is more quiet than the H100i. the H100i fans are loud. since you said you'd probably switch to noctua fans id go with the h220. the helix fans that come with the h220 are not bad at all.


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> the h220 is more quiet than the H100i. the H100i fans are loud. since you said you'd probably switch to noctua fans id go with the h220. the helix fans that come with the h220 are not bad at all.


Fans on the h220 are close to dead silent? My pc is in my room and I want to sleep while it's on but I'm really sensitive with noise so it has to be close to no noise. The plan was to buy the h220 and then replace the fans with noctua's. Are the basic fan good enough?

Performance wise the h220 should be better right? because of the better pump and a thicker rad.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> good to know. Dang shame that its not really specified in the manual and has to be determined manually.


Yea, fan connectors descriptions and definitions are seriously neglected in manuals. I bought a z77IA-e53 thinking it would be a good replacement for my z77e-itx and found out later that the PWM functionality doesn't exist on the second 4 pin header.. they just added another pin that has no functionality. Granted I bought it in a hurry because my z77e-itx lost a PCIe lane, but it is still _really_ annoying to not have expected performance out of something as trivial as fan headers. I mean, WHY make a header that has an additional lead to exactly nowhere?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Anyone else watching newegg and microcenter's websites like a hawk waiting for the 220 to show up in stock?


Just to update those that are waiting for these to get to Micro Center and Newegg, it won't be too much longer. They should be available around the middle of next week or so at the latest. I'll post an update if or when that changes. I'm sorry for this delay, but the wait is almost over.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> if you have no plans on expanding your loop to include a GPU or something rather in the future, h100i will work fine.
> 
> if you have the slightest inclination that you'll want to tinker around with it and add more things like a GPU or radiator, then yes, h220.
> 
> if you end up buying Noctuas for the h100i, you might as well just buy the h220 since that'll bring them both to the same cost. The h220 then offers many more benefits. And yeah, i had the h100i and the fans are as loud as they say. Well over 50db at max.
> 
> Martin's test:


Holy crap!!!!! That's crazy!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just to update those that are waiting for these to get to Micro Center and Newegg, it won't be too much longer. They should be available around the middle of next week or so at the latest. I'll post an update if or when that changes. I'm sorry for this delay, but the wait is almost over.


Cool


----------



## Juraat

Just tried installing my H220, but it seems the pump is dead.







I tried it with and without the PWM-splitter, but it doesn't turn on. Temps when booting start at about 50 degrees and will steadily clime after that. Had to put on the stock cooler for now.

Is there any way you could help me out here, BramSLI?


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Fans on the h220 are close to dead silent? My pc is in my room and I want to sleep while it's on but I'm really sensitive with noise so it has to be close to no noise. The plan was to buy the h220 and then replace the fans with noctua's. Are the basic fan good enough?
> 
> Performance wise the h220 should be better right? because of the better pump and a thicker rad.


i wouldnt say they are dead slient but they are quiet at least in my opinion. plus when the unit is running in a lower state or idle its pretty quiet. i think the h220 and h100i load temps would be couple degrees apart but the h220 will be more quiet. my idle temps are much lower though idle temps dont really mean much. i say try it out 1st with helix fans and if its too noisey for you get the noctua fans.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juraat*
> 
> Just tried installing my H220, but it seems the pump is dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried it with and without the PWM-splitter, but it doesn't turn on. Temps when booting start at about 50 degrees and will steadily clime after that. Had to put on the stock cooler for now.
> 
> Is there any way you could help me out here, BramSLI?


I certainly can. I'm at home right now, but if you send a copy of your invoice to [email protected] I'm sure I can help you out with this issue. I can't tell you how many dead pumps that have been reported to us and then when we get them back they work fine. It could simply be that you've got one with some debris in it and therefore it just needs to be flushed. If you're willing to do that I can walk you through the process. If not then we'll just have to RMA it. Either way we'll get you taken care of. I get in to work tomorrow at about 8:00am PST.


----------



## Juraat

Thank alot! I realy appreciate it. I'll send you an email first thing in the morning.

What email-adres can I use? EDIT: nvm, totally overlooked it!


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's an update on WiSH2oo0's RMA request. We were waiting for him to send us a copy of his invoice and he never did. I checked my emails this morning and that's what I found. That's why he wasn't issued an RMA for his kit. He did provide me with a copy of the invoice this morning and we'll be sending out a replacement pump to him this afternoon. I'm guessing that he assumed that we would be completely inflexible with regards to getting everything back that was included with his original kit. We can make exceptions in certain cases, but we would prefer to get everything back that way we can just send an entirely new unit.


Just an update on my end. I still have not received an address where to mail my H220 or what items they would like me to include in the box. In there last email they stated that they wanted to reuse my H220 instead of issuing a "entirely new unit" like he/she has stated here. They also mentioned shipping my H220 UPS and I will bet that is UPS ground. We all know UPS ground is 5-7 business days. So best case scenario is 10 business days involved for shipping, probably 5 business days to rebuild and test my H220. That would put turn around time at about 19 days best case? But I am sure I will receive an email tomorrow on where to send my H220 and we will get things handled in a timely fashion. I will also keep everyone posted on my end like I promised.

First contact was made here on the forums in the form of a PM on Apr 14, 2013 at 8:41 am.

Ty Bram for all your time and help thus far.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Just an update on my end. I still have not received an address where to mail my H220 or what items they want me to include in the box. In there last email they stated that they want to reuse my H220 instead of issuing a "entirely new unit" like he/she stated here.


I did respond to you and explained that we currently don't have any radiators to replace yours with. Therefore we'll need you to either send yours back, and we'll cover the shipping. Once we get it we'll install a new pump on it, or you can wait a few days for us to get some new radiators in, and then we can cross ship you a full kit once you provide us with your credit card information. Let me know how you wish to proceed.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I did respond to you and explained that we currently don't have any radiators to replace yours with. Therefore we'll need you to either send yours back, and we'll cover the shipping. Once we get it we'll install a new pump on it, or you can wait a few days for us to get some new radiators in, and then we can cross ship you a full kit once you provide us with your credit card information. Let me know how you wish to proceed.


I thought you where sending him a new pump? Wouldn't this be the easiest way to handle it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> I thought you where sending him a new pump? Wouldn't this be the easiest way to handle it?


Yeah, I thought so too. Go figure.


----------



## Scorpion667

Just want to give a BIG shout out to Swiftech for helping me fix my pump issue.
The interactions I had with Gabe and Bryan especially have been stellar. Bryan walked me through the whole process of purging the debris from my H220 unit and Gabe gave me the great idea of using a coffee filter in order to filter and reuse the OEM fluid. I had zero water cooling experience before this and let's just say I have a new obsession now









Also filling and working with the stock H220 has been very easy and quite an enjoyable experience (I am new at this). Getting all the bubbles out is extremely easy. My pump is also quieter now for some reason.

I work in an industry where I deal with hardware vendors like Lenovo, HP, Panasonic, Toshiba, Lexmark, Infoprint, Cisco and many others, day in and day out. I also have RMA experience with Asus, EVGA, Gigabyte, Biostar and several others. I will say that my customer service experience with Swiftech has been the best I have had yet, with EVGA coming in at a close second.

In this day and age where customer service is going down the drain with many vendors, it's really a godsend. I will choose customer service over bleeding edge any day (learnt this the hard way), fortunately with Swiftech you get both! These folks are passionate and very knowledgeable. Really what sold me on the H220 was seeing Bryan post here on OCN and answer questions etc, outside of his shift, it was like 11PM, around the time H220 came out. These products are really made by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts.

Thanks a ton Bryan.

Side note: I have the first batch of H220, there was a small piece of debris (acetal shaving left behind by CNC machine) that was not playing nice with the pump when cold booting the machine. I can confirm the issue has been fixed by flushing the AIO unit with distilled a few times, then refilling with Swiftech Hydrx PM2. This issue was isolated to the first batch, the units sold now are free of debris according to their internal testing.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> No problem. I am not looking for special treatment.


Just to quote myself from the forums here and my 1st email(or PM I do not recall) I sent to [email protected]


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Just an update on my end. I still have not received an address where to mail my H220 or what items they would like me to include in the box. In there last email they stated that they wanted to reuse my H220 instead of issuing a "entirely new unit" like he/she has stated here. They also mentioned shipping my H220 UPS and I will bet that is UPS ground. We all know UPS ground is 5-7 business days. So best case scenario is 10 business days involved for shipping, probably 5 business days to rebuild and test my H220. That would put turn around time at about 19 days best case? But I am sure I will receive an email tomorrow on where to send my H220 and we will get things handled in a timely fashion. I will also keep everyone posted on my end like I promised.
> 
> First contact was made here on the forums in the form of a PM on Apr 14, 2013 at 8:41 am.
> 
> Ty Bram for all your time and help thus far.


It took 17 days for me to get my replacement unit, just a heads up. Good service but that is the longest I have ever waited for an RMA and that was an advanced RMA. Me shipping my parts to the vendor and getting a return item has always taken less time. But with the extreme demand of this product, it is honestly expected. Great company and I appreciate them being part of this board and this community on OCN, it is rare for this level of support.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Just to quote myself from the forums here and my 1st email(or PM I do not recall) I sent to [email protected]


As I stated previously, just let me know how you want to proceed with the RMA.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> It took 17 days for me to get my replacement unit, just a heads up. Good service but that is the longest I have ever waited for an RMA and that was an advanced RMA. Me shipping my parts to the vendor and getting a return item has always taken less time. But with the extreme demand of this product, it is honestly expected. Great company and I appreciate them being part of this board and this community on OCN, it is rare for this level of support.


I am very sorry that it took so long. This was simply due to the fact that we didn't have any more replacement kits on hand when you requested an RMA for yours. We're kind of in the same situation now, but we do have new pumps that have been fully tested, for replacements. Once the new facility is operating at 100% we shouldn't have these issues anymore. It should only take another week before it's running at full steam. Thank you for your understanding, it really is appreciated.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> But I am sure I will receive an email tomorrow on where to send my H220 and we will get things handled in a timely fashion.
> 
> Ty Bram for all your time and help thus far.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As I stated previously, just let me know how you want to proceed with the RMA.


I sent an email to [email protected] tonight right when I finished work at 6:58PM CST.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> I sent an email to [email protected] tonight right when I finished work at 6:58PM CST.


OK, that's me, so I'll look at it when I get in tomorrow morning.


----------



## Thaid

Will there be Haswell support with these h220s? I know some companies will give their existing customers brackets at not extra cost.. any chance it'll be the same with Swiftech?

Also, any update on NCIX's stock for these H220's?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> Will there be Haswell support with these h220s? I know some companies will give their existing customers brackets at not extra cost.. any chance it'll be the same with Swiftech?
> 
> Also, any update on NCIX's stock for these H220's?


haswell's cooler mounting is no different than the current 1155.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> Will there be Haswell support with these h220s? I know some companies will give their existing customers brackets at not extra cost.. any chance it'll be the same with Swiftech?
> 
> Also, any update on NCIX's stock for these H220's?


Swiftech will release update mounting for Haswell if there is any change. Currently its the same as 1155.
NCIX is end of April to mid May. best to place an order with NCIX. That way you will be on waiting list.


----------



## Shnoob

Hey BramSLI1
Could you post the correct method to go about flushing the H220?
When I get mine I will be adding a GPU block so might as well do it seeing as the loop needs to be refilled anyway.
Thanks


----------



## mikuli040

Video tutorial flushing H220


----------



## MerkageTurk

DO i need a backplate for H220 Socket 2011, I am really confused.


----------



## dsmwookie

Is their an idea to the quantity that Newegg and Microcenter are receiving? Wasn't sure if it was a trickle or a very large shipment.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shnoob*
> 
> Hey BramSLI1
> Could you post the correct method to go about flushing the H220?
> When I get mine I will be adding a GPU block so might as well do it seeing as the loop needs to be refilled anyway.
> Thanks


Just follow the steps in our video that shows how to add a graphics card to the loop. The part that shows how to drain and fill the kit, combined with how to use a jumped power supply is how you'll flush the loop. You can use distilled water to do this and you'll want to run the pump for about 10 to 15 minutes. Repeat this process about 3 or 4 times or until you no longer see any debris coming out of the radiator when you drain it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> DO i need a backplate for H220 Socket 2011, I am really confused.


No, you don't need a backplate for socket 2011. The water block and pump will mount directly onto the motherboard with the included socket 2011 screws.


----------



## BramSLI1

Here is the update on the RMA request from WiSH2oo0. I sent him an email this morning confirming that we have some more radiators in and thus I'll be putting together a full replacement kit for him. I informed him that we'll need him to call us with his credit card information to secure cross shipment of the replacement and that his card won't be charged unless he fails to return the defective unit. I told him to just leave the parts in the box that he doesn't need and just ship it back with the included call tag so that he can just drop it off at his local UPS store. I think this should be the end of this situation.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here is the update on the RMA request from WiSH2oo0. I sent him an email this morning confirming that we have some more radiators in and thus I'll be putting together a full replacement kit for him. I informed him that we'll need him to call us with his credit card information to secure cross shipment of the replacement and that his card won't be charged unless he fails to return the defective unit. I told him to just leave the parts in the box that he doesn't need and just ship it back with the included call tag so that he can just drop it off at his local UPS store. I think this should be the end of this situation.


One would hope, I just don't understand why the whole process for him has been hard at all. I've had nothing but great direct support for periphery on my H220, how would an RMA be treated worse when financials are involved?

I dunno, whole thing is just strange to me, and I don't think it was at the fault of Swiftech.


----------



## ez12a

Agreed. Process was very painless for me and straight forward. The next day after my pump died, Bryan had one in the mail to me. The next day after that it was at my work (i'm also in socal).

maybe just never RMA-ed something before. I never had any troubles with any company, really.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> One would hope, I just don't understand why the whole process for him has been hard at all. I've had nothing but great direct support for periphery on my H220, how would an RMA be treated worse when financials are involved?
> 
> I dunno, whole thing is just strange to me, and I don't think it was at the fault of Swiftech.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Agreed. Process was very painless for me and straight forward. The next day after my pump died, Bryan had one in the mail to me. The next day after that it was at my work (i'm also in socal).
> 
> maybe just never RMA-ed something before. I never had any troubles with any company, really.


+2


----------



## BramSLI1

I do have another update on WiSH2oo0's RMA request. Due to his request for just a straight RMA I gave him instructions to just send the kit back to us and when we get we'll ship out his replacement. I did inform him though that we'll only send him what he sends us. I'll include an extra tube of thermal paste, but other than that we'll just send him what he sends us. I think this will do it and be the end of this entire ordeal.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> +2


+3


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Is their an idea to the quantity that Newegg and Microcenter are receiving? Wasn't sure if it was a trickle or a very large shipment.


It's going to be a fairly large shipment to both resellers. I don't have the exact numbers, but I think it's over a 100 for each. That's just an estimate though.


----------



## MuGGz

Im new to watercooling and want to buy Swiftech H220 because it will be a LAN rig and i like the close loop

The case I will be buying supports 360 rad in the top and 240 rad in the front

My question is, is it ok to put the Swiftech H220 in the front and expand it with the 360 in the roof ?

It will cool both cpu and 1 gpu card


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> Im new to watercooling and want to buy Swiftech H220 because it will be a LAN rig and i like the close loop
> 
> The case I will be buying supports 360 rad in the top and 240 rad in the front
> 
> My question is, is it ok to put the Swiftech H220 in the front and expand it with the 360 in the roof ?
> 
> It will cool both cpu and 1 gpu card


Yes, you can put the H220 radiator in the front so long as it will fit. This isn't a standard sized 2x120mm fan radiator because of the swivel fittings that come out on one end and the reservoir on the other. If it does fit I would recommend installing it with the reservoir positioned at the top so that it will trap any air bubbles. That configuration sounds like it should work though so long as the radiator for the H220 fits.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> Im new to watercooling and want to buy Swiftech H220 because it will be a LAN rig and i like the close loop
> 
> The case I will be buying supports 360 rad in the top and 240 rad in the front
> 
> My question is, is it ok to put the Swiftech H220 in the front and expand it with the 360 in the roof ?
> 
> It will cool both cpu and 1 gpu card


Oo that is one hell of a beefy lan rig.

Are you sure you don't want something more compact for traveling? Anyway once you talk about expanding the H220 loop, you will be adding or using different tubing, in which case any configuration will be possible within your case, provided you have enough tubing to accommodate.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> Im new to watercooling and want to buy Swiftech H220 because it will be a LAN rig and i like the close loop
> 
> The case I will be buying supports 360 rad in the top and 240 rad in the front
> 
> My question is, is it ok to put the Swiftech H220 in the front and expand it with the 360 in the roof ?
> 
> It will cool both cpu and 1 gpu card


Lan rig that big? Which case will you be using?


----------



## MuGGz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can put the H220 radiator in the front so long as it will fit. This isn't a standard sized 2x120mm fan radiator because of the swivel fittings that come out on one end and the reservoir on the other. If it does fit I would recommend installing it with the reservoir positioned at the top so that it will trap any air bubbles. That configuration sounds like it should work though so long as the radiator for the H220 fits.


I live in Iceland so i was thinking of ordering from http://highflow.nl/, they have H220 in stock

Do they have an old shipment or ?

And how does RMA for international buyers work if i run into problems with the pump like some users have ..?


----------



## MuGGz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Lan rig that big? Which case will you be using?


hehe

ok not totally LAN rig, but maby once a month or so









Im waiting to see the final production of Caselabs S5, mATX case

But i've been taking a closer look at the Fractal Arc Midi R2, that supports 2x 240/280 rads in push/pull so maby i'll just get that and put 60mm 280rad in the front and H220 in the top


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> I live in Iceland so i was thinking of ordering from http://highflow.nl/, they have H220 in stock
> 
> Do they have an old shipment or ?
> 
> And how does RMA for international buyers work if i run into problems with the pump like some users have ..?


These should be good units that have been flushed and tested. If you do run into issues though our European distributor Bacata is handling the RMAs and they've provided customer support that is on par with our own here in the US.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> DO i need a backplate for H220 Socket 2011, I am really confused.


you dont need a backplate for 2011.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shnoob*
> 
> Hey BramSLI1
> Could you post the correct method to go about flushing the H220?
> When I get mine I will be adding a GPU block so might as well do it seeing as the loop needs to be refilled anyway.
> Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*


In this video just follow the steps that show how to drain it and fill it. You can use distilled water for this. You'll also need to power your pump externally and this video demonstrates how to do that as well. You'll need to run the pump for about 10 to 15 minutes and then drain it to look for debris. Repeat this process several times until you no longer see any debris coming out of the radiator when you drain it. Then just follow the procedure for filling the kit with our HydrX PM2 coolant and once it's topped off you can install it. Let me know if this answers your question well enough or if you need additional information.


----------



## BramSLI1

Update on WiSH2oo0's RMA request. We're cross shipping him a brand new and fully tested unit today.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As I stated previously, just let me know how you want to proceed with the RMA.


Good Afternoon Bram,

I just wanted to fill you in that I had spoke with Michelle over at Swiftech about my RMA request. Like Byran and Gabe that I had spoke prior, Michelle was very friendly and gave me a few options on how we can proceed with the RMA process. I also did receive an email from Byran first thing this morning stating that Swiftech had just received a few new radiators to build me a new H220 kit. I did end up going with the cross-ship method that Bryan had suggested previously. Michelle also let me know on the phone that Swiftech was currently testing out a few H220 kits and that my replacement kit would be shipping out soon.

Thank you to everyone over at Swiftech for making the RMA an easy process and long with answering all my questions I had in a timely fashion.

Thank you again Bram


----------



## mikuli040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In this video just follow the steps that show how to drain it and fill it. You can use distilled water for this. You'll also need to power your pump externally and this video demonstrates how to do that as well. You'll need to run the pump for about 10 to 15 minutes and then drain it to look for debris. Repeat this process several times until you no longer see any debris coming out of the radiator when you drain it. Then just follow the procedure for filling the kit with our HydrX PM2 coolant and once it's topped off you can install it. Let me know if this answers your question well enough or if you need additional information.


I live in Finland and here is not for sale in the HydrX PM2 coolant, okay one of these other coolant?

http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/591/443

http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/971


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Good Afternoon Bram,
> 
> I just wanted to fill you in that I had spoke with Michelle over at Swiftech about my RMA request. Like Byran and Gabe that I had spoke prior, Michelle was very friendly and gave me a few options on how we can proceed with the RMA process. I also did receive an email from Byran first thing this morning stating that Swiftech had just received a few new radiators to build me a new H220 kit. I did end up going with the cross-ship method that Bryan had suggested previously. Michelle also let me know on the phone that Swiftech was currently testing out a few H220 kits and that my replacement kit would be shipping out soon.
> 
> Thank you to everyone over at Swiftech for making the RMA an easy process and long with answering all my questions I had in a timely fashion.
> 
> Thank you again Bram


Does not know that Bram = Bryan.

I'm calling it.

In other news the sky is blue, and there are 4 seasons in a year.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> I live in Finland and here is not for sale in the HydrX PM2 coolant, okay one of these other coolant?
> 
> http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/591/443
> 
> http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/971


Our green colored HydrX coolant will also work just fine.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> and there are 4 seasons in a year.


That depends on where you live







For you and I yes but places like Honolulu not so much.


----------



## Pure2sin

Delete


----------



## mikuli040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our green colored HydrX coolant will also work just fine.


Should i use itself or mixed it to Water? there is only one dl and it very expensive...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> Should i use itself or mixed it to Water? there is only one dl and it very expensive...


If it's our pre-mixed coolant you don't need to mix it with distilled water. If it's our concentrated coolant then you will need to mix it with distilled water. The ratio is to simply mix one bottle of concentrate with 32 ounces of distilled water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> Should i use itself or mixed it to Water? there is only one dl and it very expensive...


I took a closer look at the links that you sent me and that's our concentrated coolant. You will need to mix it with 32 ounces of distilled water.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

I there any disadvantage to running strait distilled water in the H220?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExpertTrigger*
> 
> I there any disadvantage to running strait distilled water in the H220?


Yes there is. Not so much in terms of bacteria or organism growth because the tubing is black, but in terms of maintaining the seals, o-rings, and the pump there is a disadvantage. Our coolant has properties that help to maintain these parts and thus extend the life of the product.


----------



## Chris-on-E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just to update those that are waiting for these to get to Micro Center and Newegg, it won't be too much longer. They should be available around the middle of next week or so at the latest. I'll post an update if or when that changes. I'm sorry for this delay, but the wait is almost over.


Thanks for the update! Cant wait!


----------



## justanoldman

Bryan (Bram),
If your motherboard allows, you can place the H220 pump in four different orientations by rotating it in 90 degree increments. Does it make any difference at all which way the pump is oriented, or will we get the exact same performance no matter what?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Bryan (Bram),
> If your motherboard allows, you can place the H220 pump in four different orientations by rotating it in 90 degree increments. Does it make any difference at all which way the pump is oriented, or will we get the exact same performance no matter what?


This is a good question. I have wondered if the pump orientation would have anything to do with some of the pump problems.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> This is a good question. I have wondered if the pump orientation would have anything to do with some of the pump problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Bryan (Bram),
> If your motherboard allows, you can place the H220 pump in four different orientations by rotating it in 90 degree increments. Does it make any difference at all which way the pump is oriented, or will we get the exact same performance no matter what?


I don't believe it does; I mounted my AD2 upside down in my last build and never had a problem.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Bryan (Bram),
> If your motherboard allows, you can place the H220 pump in four different orientations by rotating it in 90 degree increments. Does it make any difference at all which way the pump is oriented, or will we get the exact same performance no matter what?


The way the pump is oriented will have no impact at all on performance or how it operates.


----------



## alasam

I'm quote intrigued with this all in one. I'm in the blueprints of putting my system into water cooling and I was wondering how does the H220 waterblock fair against the more popular custom loop waterblocks out there?


----------



## Phishy714

Well, I posted a few pages back of the problems I have been encountering with this pump. During gaming sessions, I would get an rpm at 0 error from Asus suit fan controller. I have an rma coming my way already due to awesome customer service (thanks Bram!!), but I decided to do some testing of my own.

Basically, I kept hw monitor up ran a windowed gpu stress test to be able to monitor temps. Every time the cpu reached around 61C-65C, the pump would stop which would make temps skyrocket. Shortly after, the pump would kick back on and temps would go down, followed by another turn off. Once again, this can be better seen in my previous post.

Anyways, I was able to replicate this a couple of times until about ten min ago when the pump stopped and never started again. Plugging it into different fan headers, along with plugging it into the splitter provided nothing new. Sucks to boot into the desktop at 89C and opening up a browser brings it up to 95C..

Pump is officially dead :-(

Now I have to wait till the replacement comes in on Friday abd only hope that this one doesn't have the same issue.... can anyone with similar problems verify?

Anyways.. /rant :-(


----------



## Brandonandon

Thinking about using this in a CPU (3570K @4.4, 1.328V) and GPU (670 @ 1241, 6502) loop. Do you guys think this would be sufficient to keep my temps low? My goal is to keep my 670 below 70 degrees so I don't have any throttling. Noise is also a huge concern of mine. I don't have the option to add another radiator, as I'm putting this in an SG08. Should I just go full custom like this guy?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonandon*
> 
> Thinking about using this in a CPU (3570K @4.4, 1.328V) and GPU (670 @ 1241, 6502) loop. Do you guys think this would be sufficient to keep my temps low? My goal is to keep my 670 below 70 degrees so I don't have any throttling. Noise is also a huge concern of mine. I don't have the option to add another radiator, as I'm putting this in an SG08. Should I just go full custom like this guy?


You will have to do custom work to get it to fit. The H220 is different than a standard rad in terms of design and size. So lots of pre-planning, mock-up design, before you can do anything.
Have to run the H220 in push/pull in a case that small to help with heat.


----------



## Brandonandon

Yeah, I know it will take a lot of work and customization. I talked to Dwood about creating a custom mounting bracket and a custom shell so that there is a large enough vent on the top. I was planning on doing a push/pull. I just don't know if, after all that, the temperatures will be good enough. Especially if I ever upgrade to a hotter GPU like a 7970.


----------



## Julsmba

Hi Brandonandon, I have myself a loop with the i5 3570k @ 4.7 and a HD7950 @ 1300/1600 with 1250mv and the gpu never goes up to 40ºC playing BF3 for like 3h and CPU never goes up to 50ºC.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just to update those that are waiting for these to get to Micro Center and Newegg, it won't be too much longer. They should be available around the middle of next week or so at the latest. I'll post an update if or when that changes. I'm sorry for this delay, but the wait is almost over.


Awesome!!!!!!!


----------



## Brandonandon

This is with only the included radiator? No other added parts? Are you using a universal GPU block? Those temperatures just seem too good to be true.


----------



## colforbin

Adding a GPU block and Rad. Is it OK to put the extra rad (120) on the bottom deck? How should the layout be H220 > Cpu > 120 > GPU> back to the H220??


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Adding a GPU block and Rad. Is it OK to put the extra rad (120) on the bottom deck? How should the layout be H220 > Cpu > 120 > GPU> back to the H220??


The only order that really matters is res -> pump inlet. The rest of the loop will equalize the temperature throughout and you should do the best orientation for the shortest loop. That order only really matters to ease the pump priming when you start filling the loop, you can do it in a different way it will just be more difficult.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> The only order that really matters is res -> pump inlet. The rest of the loop will equalize the temperature throughout and you should do the best orientation for the shortest loop. That order only really matters to ease the pump priming when you start filling the loop, you can do it in a different way it will just be more difficult.


That's a great answer. The reason for this is that the coolant doesn't heat up from one component to the next, but from several revolutions through the loop. Therefore the order of your components doesn't matter except for the pump and reservoir orientation. Having the pump sit lower than the reservoir, and with the pump intake being fed directly by the reservoir, helps it to prime when you're filling your loop for the first time.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonandon*
> 
> Thinking about using this in a CPU (3570K @4.4, 1.328V) and GPU (670 @ 1241, 6502) loop. Do you guys think this would be sufficient to keep my temps low? My goal is to keep my 670 below 70 degrees so I don't have any throttling. Noise is also a huge concern of mine. I don't have the option to add another radiator, as I'm putting this in an SG08. Should I just go full custom like this guy?


Your vcore seems high for a 4.4 OC. I have a particularly bad OC;ing chip which needs 1.39 for 4.7 so I'm wondering if you need to tweak your OC a bit. Also if your willing to delid that will help with temps. I say this all in the context of keeping temps down as you've stated. Most of us using this cooler along with delided IVB's are getting great results performance wise out of our chips as well as temps. And the helix fans are the most silent fans I have on my rig and


----------



## MiwaPi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Hi Brandonandon, I have myself a loop with the i5 3570k @ 4.7 and a HD7950 @ 1300/1600 with 1250mv and the gpu never goes up to 40ºC playing BF3 for like 3h and CPU never goes up to 50ºC.


I'm curious, is this just with the H220 Rad? I'm just using the H220 rad (my loop includes a 3570k (4.5) and a HD7950 (1200/1600 - 1225mv)) and my CPU gets to around 55-60ºC while my 7950 gets up to around 65ºC with a few hours of Bioshock Infinite.

I'm wondering how better my temps would be if I fit in a 120 rad in my Arc Mini somehow.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiwaPi*
> 
> I'm curious, is this just with the H220 Rad? I'm just using the H220 rad (my loop includes a 3570k (4.5) and a HD7950 (1200/1600 - 1225mv)) and my CPU gets to around 55-60ºC while my 7950 gets up to around 65ºC with a few hours of Bioshock Infinite.
> 
> I'm wondering how better my temps would be if I fit in a 120 rad in my Arc Mini somehow.


If the 120 rad that you're looking to add is the same quality as the H220 then you'll see about a 2 to 3 degree drop in temperature.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the 120 rad that you're looking to add is the same quality as the H220 then you'll see about a 2 to 3 degree drop in temperature.


Speaking of single 120 or 140 rad, since they are usually used in a vertical orientation, does it make any difference to flow rate or cooling performance if you use the rad with the fittings above the rad or below it?


----------



## mikuli040

Flushing been done and what was found there









http://aijaa.com/AlFMJc


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Speaking of single 120 or 140 rad, since they are usually used in a vertical orientation, does it make any difference to flow rate or cooling performance if you use the rad with the fittings above the rad or below it?


No, having the fittings above or below the rad will make virtually no difference in performance.


----------



## justanoldman

Thanks for all the help Bryan.









On a completely different note:
Just curious, is anyone here using (or thinking about using) the H220 on a delidded Ivy chip?

EK has a new mounting mechanism to allow their cpu block to go direct to the die, and I am curious if anyone is going to do something (like add some washers) to the H220 and try to use it without the IHS.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> Flushing been done and what was found there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://aijaa.com/AlFMJc


Good thing you flushed it first, that is a large chunk of crap to come out of the loop.


----------



## Brandonandon

I'm using an ASRock Z77 mini-ITX, and used the mobo defaults to OC to 4.4. It was stable at a lower voltage running Prime for a couples hours, but it would crash on Valley of BF3 for some reason, so I just offset it a bit. Hasn't crashed since. Is there anything else I should do to get it stable besides simply increasing the voltage? I haven't delidded mine yet, I may end up doing that if I get the H220 (or H240).

@MiwiPi,

That seems more like what I would expect temp-wise. I'm just always fearful of reaching that 70 C barrier that the Kepler cards have before they start to underclock.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonandon*
> 
> I'm using an ASRock Z77 mini-ITX, and used the mobo defaults to OC to 4.4. It was stable at a lower voltage running Prime for a couples hours, but it would crash on Valley of BF3 for some reason, so I just offset it a bit. Hasn't crashed since. Is there anything else I should do to get it stable besides simply increasing the voltage? I haven't delidded mine yet, I may end up doing that if I get the H220 (or H240).


More likely your GPU is the culprit for crashing rather than our CPU. Your mobo has good specs so you should def OC through the BIOs/UEFI. Go here for ASRock

http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition/0_100

Go here for GTX 600 series OC guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1265110/the-gtx-670-overclocking-master-guide/0_100

EDIT: one more important thread - IVB Delidded Club:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_100

Also just so that we don't muddy this thread, post your comments on the one's I've referenced above. A lot of us here also lurk these threads.


----------



## Silvaire

Hi, I'm new to water-cooling but am an experienced system builder.

I'm about to revamp my existing computer's cooling by purchasing a Fractal Designs Define R4. I was wondering if the H220 would work fine as a front intake there instead of in the common spot on top as either an exhaust or intake? Is the hose long enough to connect to the CPU comfortably from the front instead of the top? Is this a wise cooling scheme?

I will be removing both HD cages as I only use one SSD drive in my desktops (I have a server).

My goal eventually is to put the H220 in the front as intakes in a push or pull, rear exhaust, and then figure out if I need extra fans: exhaust top, intake side, or intake bottom. Right now I have a reference 6870 that is not OC'ed that is the normal blower type, but I am planning for the future and will upgrade to the next-gen GFX line, probably an aftermarket design that dumps heat into the case because they are quieter.

Thanks!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiwaPi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Hi Brandonandon, I have myself a loop with the i5 3570k @ 4.7 and a HD7950 @ 1300/1600 with 1250mv and the gpu never goes up to 40ºC playing BF3 for like 3h and CPU never goes up to 50ºC.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious, is this just with the H220 Rad? I'm just using the H220 rad (my loop includes a 3570k (4.5) and a HD7950 (1200/1600 - 1225mv)) and my CPU gets to around 55-60ºC while my 7950 gets up to around 65ºC with a few hours of Bioshock Infinite.
> 
> I'm wondering how better my temps would be if I fit in a 120 rad in my Arc Mini somehow.
Click to expand...

What is your ambient temps like?
What speed are the fans and pump running at?
Are you using stock fans or other fans?
You using push/pull or just pull or push?


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to water-cooling but am an experienced system builder.
> 
> I'm about to revamp my existing computer's cooling by purchasing a Fractal Designs Define R4. I was wondering if the H220 would work fine as a front intake there instead of in the common spot on top as either an exhaust or intake? Is the hose long enough to connect to the CPU comfortably from the front instead of the top? Is this a wise cooling scheme?
> 
> I will be removing both HD cages as I only use one SSD drive in my desktops (I have a server).
> 
> My goal eventually is to put the H220 in the front as intakes in a push or pull, rear exhaust, and then figure out if I need extra fans: exhaust top, intake side, or intake bottom. Right now I have a reference 6870 that is not OC'ed that is the normal blower type, but I am planning for the future and will upgrade to the next-gen GFX line, probably an aftermarket design that dumps heat into the case because they are quieter.
> 
> Thanks!


That's how I have my kit configured in my 300R (see my profile below). ZERO issues thus far. But I only run my machine about 4-5 hours a day vs 24/7 like some guys here.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What is your ambient temps like?
> What speed are the fans and pump running at?
> Are you using stock fans or other fans?
> You using push/pull or just pull or push?


Here in Portugal now is Spring so the ambient temps are around 25º.
My fans are Bequiet! SilentWings 2 in push/pull on both radiators and they ar running at 1540RPM (MAX).
The Pump is actually running at 2500RPM.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to water-cooling but am an experienced system builder.
> 
> I'm about to revamp my existing computer's cooling by purchasing a Fractal Designs Define R4. I was wondering if the H220 would work fine as a front intake there instead of in the common spot on top as either an exhaust or intake? Is the hose long enough to connect to the CPU comfortably from the front instead of the top? Is this a wise cooling scheme?
> 
> I will be removing both HD cages as I only use one SSD drive in my desktops (I have a server).
> 
> My goal eventually is to put the H220 in the front as intakes in a push or pull, rear exhaust, and then figure out if I need extra fans: exhaust top, intake side, or intake bottom. Right now I have a reference 6870 that is not OC'ed that is the normal blower type, but I am planning for the future and will upgrade to the next-gen GFX line, probably an aftermarket design that dumps heat into the case because they are quieter.
> 
> Thanks!


if the tubes are not long enough you can always install longer tubing to make it long enough.


----------



## Scorpion667

Question:

I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...

The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.

I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.


----------



## Silvaire

I would prefer knowing ahead of time so that I'm not stuck with a partially complete build. Furthermore, I have no experience with actual water cooling, so if adding longer tubes ventures into that territory (like, say for example, having to drain the fluid--I have no idea what is involved), that would be a definite negative for me.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What is your ambient temps like?
> What speed are the fans and pump running at?
> Are you using stock fans or other fans?
> You using push/pull or just pull or push?
> 
> 
> 
> Here in Portugal now is Spring so the ambient temps are around 25º.
> My fans are Bequiet! SilentWings 2 in push/pull on both radiators and they ar running at 1540RPM (MAX).
> The Pump is actually running at 2500RPM.
Click to expand...

Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.

The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
> What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.
> 
> The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
> But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.


Well I like my temps actually, I don't think that their hot.
I buy 6 SilentWings2 for about 7€ each. here there are about 20€ to 25€ each. I think they are making the job...
oh and the other rad is placed at the bottom push/pull as intake and it's a Black Ice SR-1 120.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for temps. However This heats up my video card backplate, case, memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhaust hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...
> 
> The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.
> 
> I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.


I would say your best bet would be get another rad and put your GPU in the loop as well. Unless you have the front cages fully populated with disks. Short of that, unless you're having lots of issues you could add an additional fan on the inside of the case to move the hot air back towards the exhaust. The best solution would still be to use the h220 as intake, imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I would prefer knowing ahead of time so that I'm not stuck with a partially complete build. Furthermore, I have no experience with actual water cooling, so if adding longer tubes ventures into that territory (like, say for example, having to drain the fluid--I have no idea what is involved), that would be a definite negative for me.


We have a bunch of videos put together by Bram (Bryan @ swiftech) which walks you through the entire process of expanding the loop. This would show you everything you need to know, and everything you need to get in order to change the length of your tubing.

I'll see about getting a list of the links together and then having phelan put it in the first post.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...
> 
> The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.
> 
> I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I would say your best bet would be get another rad and put your GPU in the loop as well. Unless you have the front cages fully populated with disks. Short of that, unless you're having lots of issues you could add an additional fan on the inside of the case to move the hot air back towards the exhaust. The best solution would still be to use the h220 as intake, imo.


I have to agree with Avonosac here. If you have room the optimal place to put another fan would be at the bottom, and have it pulling air into the case and onto your graphics card. This should bring your graphic card's temperature down and allow you to keep your H220 rad set up as an intake. The Switch 810 has lots of options, so if that one doesn't work for you there is likely one that will.


----------



## Diablo85

Alright....so...now that I'm finally getting into really wanting to watercool my pc, I have a HAF-X case, an i7-2700k @ 4.7 (most days), and (currently) 2 gigabyte 7970's that are probably going to be sold off for 7950's on 7970 reference pcb...should i go full custom or expand the H220?


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...
> 
> The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.
> 
> I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.


I'm finding my configuration with the RAD mounted in the front of my case is pretty efficient in keeping my system cool at idle and under load. My SLI GPUs also idle around 28C and stay way below 70C under load. Now that the weather here is warming up, at idle my delidded 3570K's hottest core sits at 27C (coolest temp I ever recorded was 14C). Under load hottest core hit's 71C then levels off at 58-60C. I documented the whole install process on my 300R case mod thread. Part 4 shows my idle and load temps on that day.

I favor 140mm fans over 120s bc they're much quieter because of lower RPMs and in most cases move more air than most 120mm that run at higher RPMs. But the Swiftech helix fans are dead quite. The one SP120 I have is by far the nosiest fan in my case even with a resistor.

Find out if your cases' front panel can accommodate a rad and buy some fans and set up for exhaust up top. My 300R had to be modded, but your case has modular HDD cages so should be a bit more simple to judge.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Alright....so...now that I'm finally getting into really wanting to watercool my pc, I have a HAF-X case, an i7-2700k @ 4.7 (most days), and (currently) 2 gigabyte 7970's that are probably going to be sold off for 7950's on 7970 reference pcb...should i go full custom or expand the H220?


This is a great question. Here's what it comes down to. It's essentially about looks and cost at this point. It's also about the time frame that you're looking at for adding your cards into your loop. If you want to get your feet wet by just cooling your CPU for now and then add your cards into the loop later, then I would suggest going with the H220 because it will give the easiest way to do this. It's also the most cost effective. If you're planning to do it all at once, and price isn't an issue, then going with a full-custom loop right from the start might be the better way to go. In terms of looks you might prefer the look of the H220 over other CPU water blocks, then basically you've already made your choice. In terms of performance, there is very little difference between having a custom loop with an H220 kit, and a custom loop with separate blocks, pumps, radiators, and a reservoir. The cost does favor the H220 in this case as well. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have to agree with Avonosac here. If you have room the optimal place to put another fan would be at the bottom, and have it pulling air into the case and onto your graphics card. This should bring your graphic card's temperature down and allow you to keep your H220 rad set up as an intake. The Switch 810 has lots of options, so if that one doesn't work for you there is likely one that will.


I have a side panel 140mm fan blowing directly on my GPUs and for me the jury is still out on whether bottom or side mounted fans help with GPU temps to any noticeable degree.







granted it's the stock 140mm fan. But I'm not convinced yet.







feel free to beat me up about this


----------



## ez12a

put the video cards under water and the problem is solved









my 670 reference cooler spouted hot air into the case through the gap in the shroud for the SLI bridge. But now that i have that under water in case temps have never been cooler. literally the only heat generating things are CPU VRM and hard drives. I have a 200mm feeding air through the front and exhausting the still cool air from inside out through the rads.

my 670 dropped 20C going water as well.

lol The h220 is such an enabling device...i swore to keep it stock for at least a while but less than 2 months later i already modded it.







Definitely something you want to get if you have _any_ inclination of going custom.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> put the video cards under water and the problem is solved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 670 reference cooler spouted hot air into the case through the gap in the shroud for the SLI bridge. But now that i have that under water in case temps have never been cooler. literally the only hot things are CPU VRM and hard drives. I have a 200mm feeding air through the front and exhausting the still cool air from inside out through the rads.
> 
> my 670 dropped 20C going water as well.
> 
> lol The h220 is such an enabling device...i swore to keep it stock for at least a while but less than 2 months later i already modded it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely something you want to get if you have _any_ inclination of going custom.


Yea, I have great case temps in my prodigy as well, and it is basically all intake with 2 MCR-220-QP rads. 1 being the rad coming as part of the H220. Nothing in the case is cool, the highest temp after 7 days of folding I've seen is 95C cpu and 51C gpu. This is in a room with effectively no fresh air eventually warming everything up.

Normal gaming / or decent airflow in the room temps put my CPU at 75C~ and GPU at 40/41C.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
> What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.
> 
> The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
> But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I like my temps actually, I don't think that their hot.
> I buy 6 SilentWings2 for about 7€ each. here there are about 20€ to 25€ each. I think they are making the job...
> oh and the other rad is placed at the bottom push/pull as intake and it's a Black Ice SR-1 120.
Click to expand...

Not say dont use the fans you have. Myself wont use on a rad unless a good seal is in place.
The only part coming in contact is the round frame, which will lower the airflow through. As either coming from around the fan.
Your temps will get higher as ambient goes up. I would make the H220 intake and Black ice bottom exhaust or intake.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Not say dont use the fans you have. Myself wont use on a rad unless a good seal is in place.
> The only part coming in contact is the round frame, which will lower the airflow through. As either coming from around the fan.
> Your temps will get higher as ambient goes up. I would make the H220 intake and Black ice bottom exhaust or intake.


Yes i can put the H220 as an intake but will it do big difference?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Well you have to try and test. If you can try to use different fans like the ones that come with the H220 or different ones with a square frame or similar.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Well you have to try and test. If you can try to use different fans like the ones that come with the H220 or different ones with a square frame or similar.


Well for the fans i do like this ones and for now they will do the job because if i want to change them i will need to buy 6 new fans or 4 helix pwm fans.
I will test to put the H220 as an intake to see the diference and post it here.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is a great question. Here's what it comes down to. It's essentially about looks and cost at this point. It's also about the time frame that you're looking at for adding your cards into your loop. If you want to get your feet wet by just cooling your CPU for now and then add your cards into the loop later, then I would suggest going with the H220 because it will give the easiest way to do this. It's also the most cost effective. If you're planning to do it all at once, and price isn't an issue, then going with a full-custom loop right from the start might be the better way to go. In terms of looks you might prefer the look of the H220 over other CPU water blocks, then basically you've already made your choice. In terms of performance, there is very little difference between having a custom loop with an H220 kit, and a custom loop with separate blocks, pumps, radiators, and a reservoir. The cost does favor the H220 in this case as well. I hope this answers your question.


The issue with getting my feet wet with the H220 on the cpu though, is that when i do decide on a full custom (or expand the loop), ill have to mod the HAF-X to accommodate the 220 rad + a 360mm rad or sell off the 220 as 240mm of rad. wouldn't be enough to adequately cool the cpu + 2 gpu's would it?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Yes i can put the H220 as an intake but will it do big difference?


All things in the case being equal, if you have enough exhaust and the airflow is not incredibly restricted in the case, you generally want every radiator to be intake. The way they cool is by heating up the air passing through them, if you have hotter air passing through the radiator, it has less cooling potential. In some cases, if you're passing hot enough air through the radiator, it can actually act as a heating agent to the rest of the loop.

Remember in thermodynamics the heat will just try to dissipate, it doesn't care what your intentions are for the loop. If the air is hot enough, it will raise the water temperature, not lower it.


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> All things in the case being equal, if you have enough exhaust and the airflow is not incredibly restricted in the case, you generally want every radiator to be intake. The way they cool is by heating up the air passing through them, if you have hotter air passing through the radiator, it has less cooling potential. In some cases, if you're passing hot enough air through the radiator, it can actually act as a heating agent to the rest of the loop.
> 
> Remember in thermodynamics the heat will just try to dissipate, it doesn't care what your intentions are for the loop. If the air is hot enough, it will raise the water temperature, not lower it.


Ok i understand that, tomorrow i will try to put them as intake and report here








Thank you


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> The issue with getting my feet wet with the H220 on the cpu though, is that when i do decide on a full custom (or expand the loop), ill have to mod the HAF-X to accommodate the 220 rad + a 360mm rad or sell off the 220 as 240mm of rad. wouldn't be enough to adequately cool the cpu + 2 gpu's would it?


I think I've seen people install a radiator on the HDD bays. This might not be feasible for you because of the length of your cards. If this isn't possible then you will need to either mod your case or sell off the 240mm rad to purchase a single 140mm or 120mm to fit on the back. A single 360mm and a 120 or 140mm should be enough for a CPU and dual graphics. The issue that you're running into is the same one that prompted me to sell my HAF X and purchase my Switch 810.


----------



## italstal

My replacement came in, I got it installed and leak tested. Everything works great. Both the fans and pump properly increase in rpm when needed.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think I've seen people install a radiator on the HDD bays. This might not be feasible for you because of the length of your cards. If this isn't possible then you will need to either mod your case or sell off the 240mm rad to purchase a single 140mm or 120mm to fit on the back. A single 360mm and a 120 or 140mm should be enough for a CPU and dual graphics. The issue that you're running into is the same one that prompted me to sell my HAF X and purchase my Switch 810.


yeah...it would seem that way. i think i'm just going to have to fight the urge to WC everything otherwise these parts will have been in 3 cases in just over 16 months.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> yeah...it would seem that way. i think i'm just going to have to fight the urge to WC everything otherwise these parts will have been in 3 cases in just over 16 months.


I know what you mean. I've been there myself. I started with an Antec 900 in less than two years I went through a HAF 932 to a HAF X and now to my Switch 810.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Well I have now added and removed 3 faulty h220 pumps from my system. Each time having to put my air cooling system back in. I am at my wits end.

The first h220 worked great for a couple of days, then just didnt come on one morning. The second pump didnt come on right out of the box. The third pump worked for a week until I got home one evening from work, turned on my computer and it sounded like a band of crickets dying inside my case.

Ive been working on computers since the commodor 64. Ive built dozens of computers for dozens of clients. I am the lead tech for a major oil and gas company and have been working on computers for 20 years and am confident in my skills as a technician. I spent days studying up on water cooling before taking the plunge into this. I feel it necessary to mention all of this to alleviate any question to if im just some fool that doesnt know what they are doing.

I know there are probably many people who have been lucky enough not to receive pumps that either quit working or didn't work at all. Unfortunately, I am not one of those people.

I am done with the h220. And unless Swiftech sees fit to completely refund my money or sell me a more proven pump at a discounted price, I am done with them too. Ive spent countless hours and hundreds of dollars, modifying and preparing my system to accept the h220 and am now left further behind the line than when I started. Even a complete refund on this product will not make up for all of the time and extra cost involved in not only having to add and remove the h220 from my computer, but having to add my cpu and video card coolers back to it. The last time I took apart my video card, one of the wires for the fan came out of the plug. So I cant even put my video card back together until I get a new plug (4 pin mini connector) if I can even find one.

I cannot express my sheer and utter dissapointment in the h220. I wish you all well with yours and can only hope you dont encounter the same misfortune that has befallen me.

EDIT: im not going to change what I have said here. But I do want to add that I was a bit harsh. I wrote this post while my blood was boiling.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Well I have now added and removed 3 faulty h220 pumps from my system. Each time having to put my air cooling system back in. I am at my wits end.
> 
> The first h220 worked great for a couple of days, then just didnt come on one morning. The second pump didnt come on right out of the box. The third pump worked for a week until I got home one evening from work, turned on my computer and it sounded like a band of crickets dying inside my case.
> 
> Ive been working on computers since the commodor 64. Ive built dozens of computers for dozens of clients. I am the lead tech for a major oil and gas company and have been working on computers for 20 years and am confident in my skills as a technician. I spent days studying up on water cooling before taking the plunge into this. I feel it necessary to mention all of this to alleviate any question to if im just some fool that doesnt know what they are doing.
> 
> I know there are probably many people who have been lucky enough not to receive pumps that either quit working or didn't work at all. Unfortunately, I am not one of those people.
> 
> I am done with the h220. And unless Swiftech sees fit to completely refund my money or sell me a more proven pump at a discounted price, I am done with them too. Ive spent countless hours and hundreds of dollars, modifying and preparing my system to accept the h220 and am now left further behind the line than when I started. Even a complete refund on this product will not make up for all of the time and extra cost involved in not only having to add and remove the h220 from my computer, but having to add my cpu and video card coolers back to it. The last time I took apart my video card, one of the wires for the fan came out of the plug. So I cant even put my video card back together until I get a new plug (4 pin mini connector) if I can even find one.
> 
> I cannot express my sheer and utter dissapointment in the h220. I wish you all well with yours and can only hope you dont encounter the same misfortune that has befallen me.


This doesn't add up. Where are you powering your pump from? Splitter or PWM on your motherboard. I can't believe you got 3 defective pumps, did you flush your last one? I have 2 units with absolutely 0 issues with them. The statistical level of you getting 3 bad units right in a row is astronomical.

Something in your system is killing the pumps. It is the only logical conclusion I can come up with. Dirty power or a bad lead on your motherboard giving too much power.

I'm not saying this as an attack on you, I just can't believe the bad luck you need to have with a product which has had such low RMA rates, to get 3 bad units in a row.


----------



## ez12a

maybe running off a 4 pin that's really voltage regulated and damaging the pumps? Asus boards are apparently notorious for having pseudo 4 pins.

2nd h220 pump still going strong *knock on wood*


----------



## TechSilver13

I wasnt going to reinstall my H220, my new unit has been sitting on the counter since Monday, but tonight I decided to give it a go. I forgot how great the temps are on this for overclocking. Here is a pic on how I installed it. Extremely happy with my Swiftech H220!!


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> This doesn't add up. Where are you powering your pump from? Splitter or PWM on your motherboard. I can't believe you got 3 defective pumps, did you flush your last one? I have 2 units with absolutely 0 issues with them. The statistical level of you getting 3 bad units right in a row is astronomical.
> 
> Something in your system is killing the pumps. It is the only logical conclusion I can come up with. Dirty power or a bad lead on your motherboard giving too much power.
> 
> I'm not saying this as an attack on you, I just can't believe the bad luck you need to have with a product which has had such low RMA rates, to get 3 bad units in a row.


The pump is being powered straight off the motherboard CPU header and I am not using the onboard throttling. When Windows loads up, SpeedFan takes over and lowers the RPS to 40%. Then spins backup when temps reach 47c on the CPU and progresses to 100% by 55c. This has been working without a single issue for about a week now. Now when I turn on my computer the pump spins up like it's either off balance, full of crap or just plain running dry. It's a horrid racket, but it still spins. Since this was my 3rd pump, and my first pump was clogged by debris, even though Bryan told me I didn't need to, I flushed the system when I got it anyway. I then spent an entire hour bleeding air out of the system, then let it run over night and all day and repeated the process. It may as well have become a closed loop.

As for my luck, let me fill you in on just how my luck is.

I have a sick pyrocantha shrub in my front yard. It's very large and about 53 years old. I contacted 4 different licensed arborists over a few weeks and made 4 appointments for them to come out and take a look at my pyrocantha. All of these arborists were listed in the Better Business Bureau (BBB). Not only did ALL of them miss the appointments, but ALL of them failed to even call. FOUR... FOUR arborists... all BBB members.

I asked my mechanic 4 times to just QUOTE me a price to change out the AC unit in my girlfriends car. He tells me "oh yea, I'll look that up and call you right back." FOUR TIMES he never called me back.

I took my truck into another shop because the power steering pump was noisy. She's got 100k miles on her and I thought "well the pump could be robbing my gas mileage, plus it's really annoying". So I had the pump changed out. The new pump is noisier than the last and my gas mileage actually went down by about 2-3 mpg. The mechanic says that's kindof how it is with ford ranger pumps. Sometimes they are just noisy. So says the internet too.

As I said earlier, I work for IT in a major oil and gas company. We have THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of dollars' worth of old IT equipment, 17-19 in flat panel monitors, dell OptiPlex 745 and above computers, hp printers, cables, Dell servers etc. We have retired this equipment but it all still works and we need a company to come pick it all up... FOR FREE just get it out of our site (I'm not allowed to take it







). I have called 3 companies so far. ALL THREE companies have said they aren't sure when they can come out. One company actually told me she couldn't tell me until MONDAY (this was yesterday) even if they were interested in taking it!

I could go on but I won't.

I am Murphy's sick joke.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I wasnt going to reinstall my H220, my new unit has been sitting on the counter since Monday, but tonight I decided to give it a go. I forgot how great the temps are on this for overclocking. Here is a pic on how I installed it. Extremely happy with my Swiftech H220!!


Nice titans, you should put them in the loop with some of those EK full cover blocks







probably could fit at least another 220 rad down on the bottom of the case


----------



## dsmwookie

Wizard, I think you're overlooking something. Three failures is reason to turn the finger around and start troubleshooting your hardware and looking for other options/answers. It is possible one pump was bad, and committed or had faulty hardware on your end the other two times and overlooked it due the assumption it was just another bad H220 pump.

P.S. Power steering pumps wine usually due to a lack of fluid, they leak fluid if the bearings/seals are bad. More than likely the first was leaking and the mechanic put a new pump on but did not bleed the pump properly and that is why it still wines. As far as gas mileage goes, well that is in your head. A locked pump is the only thing that would create any real drag on the motor and even then it would just snap the belt. To many factors could cause bad gas mileage, I.E. weather, change in driving, route, traffic, different gas, other faulty parts.

As far as the mechanic goes, a quick quote is one thing, but the guy probably is covered up in work and would rather turn out the guaranteed pay check in front of him rather than phone back a maybe. Not necessarily professional, but I ve been on both sides and when you are holding up a transmission, axle, or whatever and people are calling for nit picky thing it doesn't help you get the job in front of you done and people get more pissy when they have nothing to drive.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Wizard, I think you're overlooking something. Three failures is reason to turn the finger around and start troubleshooting your hardware and looking for other options/answers. It is possible one pump was bad, and committed or had faulty hardware on your end the other two times and overlooked it due the assumption it was just another bad H220 pump.
> 
> P.S. Power steering pumps wine usually due to a lack of fluid, they leak fluid if the bearings/seals are bad. More than likely the first was leaking and the mechanic put a new pump on but did not bleed the pump properly and that is why it still wines. As far as gas mileage goes, well that is in your head. A locked pump is the only thing that would create any real drag on the motor and even then it would just snap the belt. To many factors could cause bad gas mileage, I.E. weather, change in driving, route, traffic, different gas, other faulty parts.
> 
> As far as the mechanic goes, a quick quote is one thing, but the guy probably is covered up in work and would rather turn out the guaranteed pay check in front of him rather than phone back a maybe. Not necessarily professional, but I ve been on both sides and when you are holding up a transmission, axle, or whatever and people are calling for nit picky thing it doesn't help you get the job in front of you done and people get more pissy when they have nothing to drive.


Pump 1 - installed stock out of the box, no modifications. Plugged directly into the CPU fan headder. Died after about 72 hours.
Pump 2 - Never powered on straight out of the box. I tested it with 2 power supplies and made sure that the ports were good by plugging in fans. Shook it, tapped it, screamed at it.
Pump 3 - Modified to add my videocard, plugged straight into the motherboard CPU headder. Flushed/tested twice (at Swiftech and my home, I left the loop running on my desk for 2 days and nights. Installed in my system and ran quiet as a mouse for a week until screaming like a banshee one evening from the moment I powered up my computer.

You tell me what have I over looked? The only thing I can think of is possible faulty power from the headder, but when I plug in a fan and watch it, the RPMs never fluxuiate. Even if there are minor fluxuations, all of the other fans that I have had plugged into have never had problems. Why should the h220 pump be any different? Even then, why would fluxuiating power cause the pump to start screaming even at different speeds, after it had remained completely silent for a week?

Oh, and my power steering pump? I ran it for 500 miles at the direction of my mechanic to work all of the bubbles out. It not only go louder but we flushed new fluid into it for an hour and it didnt make any difference. Thats when I decided to research the internet for ford ranger pumps (I actually have a mazda b3000 - ford clone) and found that it's a crap shoot on a replacement pump, maybe it's noisy, maybe it's not.

My mechanic? Ive been taking both of my vehicles to him for over a year now. He has made lots of money from me. He is just turning down an opportunity to make a guaranteed pay check from me.

EDIT: I'm really not trying to be combative. I welcome anyone that has ANY idea of what the problem could be, my fault or not.


----------



## Martinm210

I can understand wizard's frustration (3 is enough to drive anyone over the edge). I wonder if it isn't something with the CPU header feeding the pump though? The unit is setup to run off the 8 way pwm splitter which draws power directly from the PSU through the molex connector and this likely help retain closer to 12v. Running off a motherboar header at 6w could introduce some voltage drop due to resistance in the motherboard traces leaving lower voltage being fed to the pump.

I wouldn't think this would matter but I had my milling machine motor in my garage fry due to resistance in an extension cord that was too small. I ended up frying the running capacitor in the motor because of that small extension cord. I replaced my cheap extension cord with a larger heavy gauge cord and bypassed the smaller wire circuit I was plugging into and have no longer had issues with it. Lesson learned for me was to pay attention to power feeds, just because something works does NOT mean it's good power.

Anyhow, not sure the same thing applies to DC motor (I know very little about electrical motors) but it makes me wonder if plugging direct to the motherboard header is not a good idea. Kit is meant to power the pump through the PWM splitter. Seems like the issues I've heard in this thread seem to correlate to people plugging the pump directly into the MB rather than using the PWM splitter which draws power from the PSU.

6w is a pretty large load for a motherboard fan header. Most typical cpu fans are probably drawing no more than 2W so drawing 6w is higher than typical.

I would suggest using the kit PWM splitter to pull power from the power supply. This way you don't stress the motherboard and you can't accidentally feed the pump lower voltage or current limited voltage or ? If you use the provided 8 way splitter, you guarantee feeding the pump straight quality PSU regulated 12V power. Then the ONLY thing coming from the MB is the PWM signal.

Speculation, but I would NOT advise running the pump plugged directly to the MB, I would use the splitter every time. It might work, but why risk it?


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> The unit is setup to run off the 8 way pwm splitter which draws power directly from the PSU through the molex connector and this likely help retain closer to 12v.
> 
> I would suggest using the kit PWM splitter to pull power from the power supply.


Gabe stated in his video, demoing the h220 to Linus tech tips that the pump could be plugged either into the pwm splitter OR the motherboard header and the onboard throttling could be used. Bryan also said that people have been reporting that Speedfan has been working fine to control the pump, as it did for me for a week.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I can understand wizard's frustration (3 is enough to drive anyone over the edge). I wonder if it isn't something with the CPU header feeding the pump though? The unit is setup to run off the 8 way pwm splitter which draws power directly from the PSU through the molex connector and this likely help retain closer to 12v. Running off a motherboar header at 6w could introduce some voltage drop due to resistance in the motherboard traces leaving lower voltage being fed to the pump.
> 
> I wouldn't think this would matter but I had my milling machine motor in my garage fry due to resistance in an extension cord that was too small. I ended up frying the running capacitor in the motor because of that small extension cord. I replaced my cheap extension cord with a larger heavy gauge cord and bypassed the smaller wire circuit I was plugging into and have no longer had issues with it. Lesson learned for me was to pay attention to power feeds, just because something works does mean it's good.
> 
> Anyhow, not sure the same thing applies to DC motor (I know very little about electrical motors) but it makes me wonder if plugging direct to the motherboard header is not a good idea. Kit is meant to power the pump through the PWM splitter. Seems like the issues I've heard in this thread seem to correlate to people plugging the pump directly into the MB rather than using the PWM splitter which draws power from the PSU.
> 
> 6w is a pretty large load for a motherboard fan header. Most typical cpu fans are probably drawing no more than 2W so drawing 6w is higher than typical.
> 
> I would suggest using the kit PWM splitter to pull power from the power supply.


Adding to this, if the ASUS board is as much of a PITA as I have found them, it is possible your 4pin header isn't actually PWM either, and if that is screwing with the voltage than this could explain the pumps dying on you. It wouldn't even be the first time a board is documented as saying it has PWM headers, and in actuality the 4th pin does nothing and the header just voltage regulates.

As I said before, It just doesn't fit that you get 3 in a row that go bad. I really do sympathize with your issue, but there is something else wrong here.. that is my gut feeling. Take a look at the documentation of your board, contact asus (ugh, i know i'm sorry but bug them long enough and you might get a worthwhile answer... maybe) find out if the header has a max wattage draw through it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Gabe stated in his video, demoing the h220 to Linus tech tips that the pump could be plugged either into the pwm splitter OR the motherboard header and the onboard throttling could be used. Bryan also said that people have been reporting that Speedfan has been working fine to control the pump, as it did for me for a week.


Yes, it can be. That does not mean YOUR current hardware can work with it. It doesn't guarantee you wont be creating a problem by drawing too much power through a circuit which is supposed to be very light. Putting computer systems together has become much easier than it used to be, but the old principles still remain once you get passed the basics. Your electronics need to be pulling the right amount of power at the right voltages for the circuits or behavior and life expectancy become variable.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Im not sure where the idea that I have an Asus motherboard came around. I have an MSI NF980-G65. The manual states (voice dictated to my phone)

_The fan power connectors support system cooling fan with 12 volt. When connecting the wire to the connectors always know that the red wire is the positive and should be connected to the 12 Volt; the black wire is ground and should be connected to ground if the mainboard has a system Hardware Monitor chipset on board you must use a specially designed fan with speed sensor to take advantage of the CPU fan control._

Regardless,it should not matter what type of throttIing my mobo uses. The pump was marked as a widely universal device. To overlook something so basic in the design phase would be ludicrous.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Pump 1 - installed stock out of the box, no modifications. Plugged directly into the CPU fan headder. Died after about 72 hours.
> Pump 2 - Never powered on straight out of the box. I tested it with 2 power supplies and made sure that the ports were good by plugging in fans. Shook it, tapped it, screamed at it.
> Pump 3 - Modified to add my videocard, plugged straight into the motherboard CPU headder. Flushed/tested twice (at Swiftech and my home, I left the loop running on my desk for 2 days and nights. Installed in my system and ran quiet as a mouse for a week until screaming like a banshee one evening from the moment I powered up my computer.
> 
> You tell me what have I over looked? The only thing I can think of is possible faulty power from the headder, but when I plug in a fan and watch it, the RPMs never fluxuiate. Even if there are minor fluxuations, all of the other fans that I have had plugged into have never had problems. Why should the h220 pump be any different? Even then, why would fluxuiating power cause the pump to start screaming even at different speeds, after it had remained completely silent for a week?
> 
> Oh, and my power steering pump? I ran it for 500 miles at the direction of my mechanic to work all of the bubbles out. It not only go louder but we flushed new fluid into it for an hour and it didnt make any difference. Thats when I decided to research the internet for ford ranger pumps (I actually have a mazda b3000 - ford clone) and found that it's a crap shoot on a replacement pump, maybe it's noisy, maybe it's not.
> 
> My mechanic? Ive been taking both of my vehicles to him for over a year now. He has made lots of money from me. He is just turning down an opportunity to make a guaranteed pay check from me.
> 
> EDIT: I'm really not trying to be combative. I welcome anyone that has ANY idea of what the problem could be, my fault or not.


As soon as Stephen gets in I'm going to see what we can do about your issue. This third kit of yours was thoroughly tested before it was sent to you. I know this because I personally tested it. I ran it at various PWM settings and flushed it twice before sending it to you. To me this just doesn't make any sense. I'm not an engineer though.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Im not sure where the idea that I have an Asus motherboard came around. I have an MSI NF980-G65. The manual states
> 
> Regardless,it should not matter what type of *throttIing my mobo uses*. The pump was marked as a widely universal device. To overlook something so basic in the design phase would be ludicrous.


Someone said it, I figured it was verified.

But, sorry there you are 100% incorrect. Swiftech explicitly stated many times there would be adverse effects to using voltage regulation on the motor. They were very emphatic about it, I understand your frustration but, no in this case you are wrong. They did not over look it, they made a true PWM device, and it is, what you are talking about is other companies incorrectly marketing voltage regulation as PWM. That is _*not*_ Swiftechs fault, if that happens to be the case.

Best I have seen in the manual for your motherboard is a statement saying the CPU header supports fan control. It doesn't suggest or state PWM, and there aren't too many other sources I've been able to find quickly. I'd lean towards voltage regulation on the header, which is bad for the H220.


----------



## TeeBlack

my H220 been working perfect for a couple weeks now. I am using the splitter for the pump and fans and use speedfan to control the temps. everything been working great so far.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Swiftech explicitly stated many times there would be adverse effects to using voltage regulation on the motor..


I guess I missed that part. Can you please reference it for me?

On another note, does the apogee drive 2 use pwm or voltage control?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I guess I missed that part. Can you please reference it for me?
> 
> On another note, does the apogee drive 2 use pwm or voltage control?


The Apogee Drive II also uses PWM to control the speed of the pump.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> I guess I missed that part. Can you please reference it for me?
> 
> On another note, does the apogee drive 2 use pwm or voltage control?


No, I can't. I am working and a quick response is one thing, looking for multiple posts in a combination of 850 pages of forum threads is something entirely different.

Search this and the news thread of the H220 for posts by BramSLI1, Stephenmn, and [email protected] I read multiple posts from those 3 reps we have from the company many times, on top of other users stating the same that the pump is to be used with PWM only, and it needs a constant 12v.

Here on the official specs page, you can see it explicitly stating PWM as the speed control.

http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> No, I can't. I am working and a quick response is one thing, looking for multiple posts in a combination of 850 pages of forum threads is something entirely different.
> 
> Search this and the news thread of the H220 for posts by BramSLI1, Stephenmn, and [email protected] I read multiple posts from those 3 reps we have from the company many times, on top of other users stating the same that the pump is to be used with PWM only, and it needs a constant 12v.
> 
> Here on the official specs page, you can see it explicitly stating PWM as the speed control.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2


Oh yeah, I can back that up from memory if nothing else... I've been following this thread since this project's announcement (back on the news thread too), and it was stated many times that a PWM signal with a full 12v is mandatory, and without it, *shrug*...

Thanks - T


----------



## WizardontheJob

Fair enough. I wasnt able to tell from my manual wether my board uses PWM or voltage. Not that I wascalling anyone a liar . I just like to gett the facts straight.

EDIT: I found this white paper at the bottom of the support page for the h220

http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx

whether or not it pertains to my motherboard is yet to be seen.
I do however, have a 4-pin connector for all the fans on my board.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Fair enough. I wasnt able to tell from my manual wether my board uses PWM or voltage. Not that I wascalling anyone a liar . I just like to gett the facts straight.


And that's fair too, but that's a significant difference, since for someone who might not know, it seems to have developed a string of unfortunate incidents.
Hell, I won't even run a _fan_ on voltage that belongs on PWM.









Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Fair enough. I wasnt able to tell from my manual wether my board uses PWM or voltage. Not that I wascalling anyone a liar . I just like to gett the facts straight.
> 
> EDIT: I found this white paper at the bottom of the support page for the h220
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> 
> whether or not it pertains to my motherboard is yet to be seen.
> I do however, have a 4-pin connector for all the fans on my board.


even though you have 4 pins for everything, it has been proven that not all 4 pins are made equal, let alone actually controlled via PWM. This isnt your fault but the manufacturers. My board has a fake 4 pin that's actually voltage controlled. Someone else had all 4 pins and only the CPU ones where actually PWM. My old gigabyte board had a option to switch from PWM to voltage on the CPU header buried in the BIOS settings. Could be a lot of things.

Here's something you can try: connect a 3 pin fan to the same header to where the H220 was. If the speed of the fan changes at all, you know it's voltage.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> even though you have 4 pins for everything, it has been proven that not all 4 pins are made equal, let alone actually controlled via PWM. This isnt your fault but the manufacturers. My board has a fake 4 pin that's actually voltage controlled. Someone else had all 4 pins and only the CPU ones where actually PWM. My old gigabyte board had a option to switch from PWM to voltage on the CPU header buried in the BIOS settings. Could be a lot of things.
> 
> Here's something you can try: connect a 3 pin fan to the same header to where the H220 was. If the speed of the fan changes at all, you know it's voltage.


I'm the guy with 1 header PWM (cpu) and 1 header nothing, despite it being a 4 pin header. my Z77IA-E53 does not change the speed _at all_ on the case fan header 3 voltage changes in the bios was the only thing found, and ControlCenter and SpeedFan couldn't change that value at all.


----------



## Martinm210

IMHO, I generally don't trust any MB fan header to directly power much more than a single slow speed fan. Take a look at how small the traces are in your motherboard leading up to the header (wimpy to say the least). Most are really not meant for powering heavy duty items. An 1800rpm GT only draws 1 watt, so connecting the h220 pump directly to the MB is like stringing 6 1800rpm fans onto your one cpu fan header..I just wouldn't do that when the kits comes with a splitter designed to pull power direct from the PSU.

Why risk running a high powered device through the MB when the kit provides a PWM splitter that draws heavy duty regulated quality 12v direct from the PSU? If you use the splitter, you can be sure to feed the pump 12v and there is no risk of exceeding fan header specs. You also give your motherboard a break and only pull PWM signal from the motherboard which is easy work.

Running direct off the MB is an unnecessary risk, use the provided splitter and feed the pump good quality regulated direct 12v power from the PSU.









You can also connect an 18w DDC (pmp400 comes with a 3pin fan header) off a motherboard fan header. Just because something mechanically works doesn't mean it's a good idea. Too many varied motherboards out there, powering pumps off of motherboards is not something I would suggest to anyone for any pump..too many unknowns and completely unnecessary with the h220 with the provided splitter which draws from the molex PSU. It may work for some high end board, but why bother with a PWM device that can draw directly from the PSU.

There is good reason your VGA card has a power supply direct feed. It's like a freeway of power where the MB is like a maze of downtown congested streets with poorly timed signals. Don't make your pump fight that congestion, give her the same benefit you give your VGA card..PSU power via the provided splitter..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Fair enough. I wasnt able to tell from my manual wether my board uses PWM or voltage. Not that I wascalling anyone a liar . I just like to gett the facts straight.
> 
> EDIT: I found this white paper at the bottom of the support page for the h220
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> 
> whether or not it pertains to my motherboard is yet to be seen.
> I do however, have a 4-pin connector for all the fans on my board.


I just downloaded and took a good look through your mobo manual and it's pretty ambiguous as to whether it uses voltage or PWM control. It does state though on page 2-13 that you can use either a 3-pin or 4-pin powered fan on the CPUFAN1 header. I really don't know what to make of that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Just an update on wizardonthejob's status. It appears that there are some trapped air bubbles or an air pocket that is causing his issue. I've been on the phone with him to try and help him resolve it, but for those that have experience using this kit in a custom loop your help would be much appreciated. It does sound like he is still having an issue bleeding the air out of his loop.


----------



## Julsmba

Hi, today I put my H220 fans as intake and i gain about 3-4ºC, so I'm happy and i want to thank the users that say me to do that









Now I'm going to play some BF3 and see the temps


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> IMHO, I generally don't trust any MB fan header to directly power much more than a single slow speed fan. Take a look at how small the traces are in your motherboard leading up to the header (wimpy to say the least). Most are really not meant for powering heavy duty items. An 1800rpm GT only draws 1 watt, so connecting the h220 pump directly to the MB is like stringing 6 1800rpm fans onto your one cpu fan header..I just wouldn't do that when the kits comes with a splitter designed to pull power direct from the PSU.
> 
> Why risk running a high powered device through the MB when the kit provides a PWM splitter that draws heavy duty regulated quality 12v direct from the PSU? If you use the splitter, you can be sure to feed the pump 12v and there is no risk of exceeding fan header specs. You also give your motherboard a break and only pull PWM signal from the motherboard which is easy work.
> 
> Running direct off the MB is an unnecessary risk, use the provided splitter and feed the pump good quality regulated direct 12v power from the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also connect an 18w DDC (pmp400 comes with a 3pin fan header) off a motherboard fan header. Just because something mechanically works doesn't mean it's a good idea. Too many varied motherboards out there, powering pumps off of motherboards is not something I would suggest to anyone for any pump..too many unknowns and completely unnecessary with the h220 with the provided splitter which draws from the molex PSU. It may work for some high end board, but why bother with a PWM device that can draw directly from the PSU.
> 
> There is good reason your VGA card has a power supply direct feed. It's like a freeway of power where the MB is like a maze of downtown congested streets with poorly timed signals. Don't make your pump fight that congestion, give her the same benefit you give your VGA card..PSU power via the provided splitter..


I get it, the whole reason I was trying to remove the splitter is the need for a 2nd splitter. I have 2 MCR-220-QPs essentially and the 4 helix on them is more than enough to handle the cooling, problem is when the fans spin down to where I want them to idel, the pump is very audible, and its moving the coolant much faster than is necessary in my very small loop. H220->h220 rad -> 220-QP -> ek titan block -> h220. I only have 1 true PWM header so I'm kinda screwed until I get my z77e-itx back in working order. So the issue is looking for a way to power and control the pump and the fans without having to add 2 very large (in SFF terms) splitters into the mix.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Hi, today I put my H220 fans as intake and i gain about 3-4ºC, so I'm happy and i want to thank the users that say me to do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to play some BF3 and see the temps


Cheers mate! Enjoy!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just an update on wizardonthejob's status. It appears that there are some trapped air bubbles or an air pocket that is causing his issue. I've been on the phone with him to try and help him resolve it, but for those that have experience using this kit in a custom loop your help would be much appreciated. It does sound like he is still having an issue bleeding the air out of his loop.


If the loop is non standard in ANY way, I had trouble completely bleeding the pump. I was throwing my prodigy around for about an hour, while the pump was on shaking it and tapping everywhere an air bubble might be caught. After I did that, while the pump was running I tilted the air the case "up" following the directions of my loop. The internal flow of my GPU was nearly a full flip, I continued to work that entire direction twice through, until I got all the air out of the pump. Sealed everything up and I haven't had an issue since.

What really seemed to help for me was when I had the pump on and upside down. For some reason I think there might be a capture point in the pump near the top of the cap which can hold air, despite being at the full 3000 rpms. Good luck, and I sincerely hope it helps you and you resolve your issues.


----------



## ez12a

same. bleeding my second pump was a task and a half. it seems like its very easy to get air trapped in the pump that requires shaking the pump itself to get it loose. I had my pump mounted and even with the radiator as high as it could go with a straight path to the inlet, the air was still stuck making a warbling noise, though fluid was flowing.

it would make sense to have the pump upside down in order to get all of the bubbles out of the unit. If I understand the design of the pump, it seems like air can get trapped in the cylindrical housing where the magnet/impeller sits.


----------



## justanoldman

While time consuming, bleeding my loop with the H220 pump, stock rad, additional 320 rad, and a full cover gpu block was not that hard for me. I did the whole thing outside the case. I had it setup with the top rad positioned above the pump while doing this.

Fill up the loop, turn on the pump for a second, and just keep doing that until you can't get any more coolant in the res of the top rad. Then start picking up and moving/slightly shaking each component to help to move the air bubbles.

Then it is just a matter of time with turning off the pump, wait for air to settle for a minute, then turn the pump back on. Turning the pump off, waiting a minute, then turning it back on gave me better results than just leaving the pump running for an extended time. While doing that you can pick up and move around all the components to help it along. All this was possible because the whole loop was outside the case.

Installing the entire filled loop as one unit was a little tricky but once I figured out how to do it, it was not that big of a deal. I laid my case down and carefully laid each component down where it would go or as close as possible, then just started installing one component at a time.

I used the long screws that go through the fans into the rad, and holding a fan and rad with one hand while screwing in the long screws doesn't really work. To make it easier, I took one short fan screw to hold each fan in place with the case. With the fans in place I could put the rad on top of them then screw in the long screws where I didn't have the short fan screws, then took out the short fan screws and put a long screw in.


----------



## Shnoob

What's the correct size tubing to match the original, 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD?


----------



## Phelan

3/8"x5/8"


----------



## navit

For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE









http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.

ORDERED


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.
> 
> ORDERED


Better hurry. These won't last long!


----------



## Martinm210

Bleeding just the kit wasn't too bad, but no experience trying to bleed a more complex loop. I did hook up the pump and block to my pump rig though and came up with this:










With just the kit rad you are probably seeing around .6-.7GPM. With a typical GPU plus extra rad, you probably will see around .5-.6GPM as an estimate. DIY guys typically shoot for 1GPM for super easy bleeding, but I think bleeding is still doable down to about .4GPM. Not 1GPM easy, but .5GPM doable with some work.


----------



## Dudewitbow

ima wait for my unit gonna wait until they ship out with the sata powered pin box and not the molex one.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.
> 
> ORDERED


Yes I ordered one as well. bramsli1 told me they are only getting about 100 of them so hurry if you want one.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.
> 
> ORDERED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better hurry. These won't last long!
Click to expand...

in for one!


----------



## Chris-on-E

I guess ill be part of the club soon too!


----------



## WizardontheJob

First I want to thank everyone that commented for the tips. I do indeed seem to have air trapped in my pump. As I did the first time I put this loop together, I took the entire loop out of my computer and have it sitting in optimal positions (just like in bryans video - save my slightly longer hoses). Rad up high with the nozzles pointed down to the pump and the card positioned mid-way between them.

I cant seem to get this bubble out of my pump. No matter what I do I don't seem to be making any headway. I have tried shaking, rotating, tapping the pump. I even added a single drop of dish soap to the loop (as I have read on these forums and cleared with Bryan as a technique to try) but all that seemed to do was fiz up the coolant. Now I have micro bubbles covering the walls of the inlet tube to the pump and there is foam on the surface in the res.

Not only can I hear the gurgling in the pump from the air bubble, but that bubble is making the pump very loud; like a chorus of crickets on crack. It's louder now than it was when I initially built and primed the loop.

I think my problem might be clusters of micro bubbles in the pump, or I'm optimistically hoping so. Do I need to wait overnight for the micro bubbles to coalesce? Will they even do that? I'm grasping for straws here.


----------



## ez12a

bubbles/soap are probably being churned up inside. Best to wait for the bubbles to subside before turning the pump on again.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> First I want to thank everyone that commented for the tips. I do indeed seem to have air trapped in my pump. As I did the first time I put this loop together, I took the entire loop out of my computer and have it sitting in optimal positions (just like in bryans video - save my slightly longer hoses). Rad up high with the nozzles pointed down to the pump and the card positioned mid-way between them.
> 
> I cant seem to get this bubble out of my pump. No matter what I do I don't seem to be making any headway. I have tried shaking, rotating, tapping the pump. I even added a single drop of dish soap to the loop (as I have read on these forums and cleared with Bryan as a technique to try) but all that seemed to do was fiz up the coolant. Now I have micro bubbles covering the walls of the inlet tube to the pump and there is foam on the surface in the res.
> 
> Not only can I hear the gurgling in the pump from the air bubble, but that bubble is making the pump very loud; like a chorus of crickets on crack. It's louder now than it was when I initially built and primed the loop.
> 
> I think my problem might be clusters of micro bubbles in the pump, or I'm optimistically hoping so. Do I need to wait overnight for the micro bubbles to coalesce? Will they even do that? I'm grasping for straws here.


Long shot here, but try this. Wrap a piece of bubble gum or electrical tape around the pump inlet swivel joint. If there is a tiny leak there it is possible it could be sucking air in at that location. I had one time when testing that seemed to take forever to bleed and when I played around with the inlet swivel, It finally cleared out the air and all was well again. Not sure exactly why as it worked fine later, but I suppose too much lateral force on the swivel could shift the seal just enough to allow air to draw in. Worth a shot if it just doesn't want to bleed. If you have extra restriction, the negative pressure on the inlet side could be a bit higher than with the kit alone.


----------



## mastahg

Ordered one from the egg


----------



## customx

Same, ordered from Newegg. still in stock!


----------



## Yosarian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> *Do I need to wait overnight for the micro bubbles to coalesce?* Will they even do that? I'm grasping for straws here.


It wouldn't be a bad idea. Sometimes this process can take more than a couple of hours.


----------



## Shnoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Better hurry. These won't last long!


Few hours since the first post and already out of stock lol
Don't know how many they had to begin with but just shows the popularity of the H220


----------



## Dudewitbow

was posted on reddit. I warned them in advance that this club + /r/buildapcsales will consume the 100 units sent moderately quick.


----------



## twitchyzero

okay just installed mine

In order to get it fit in my 500R case the rad & L shaped resevoir is upside down.

This is my first time with a watercooling unit...the sound of water trickling is normal? or is it supposed to be 100% inaudiable? not a dealbreaker at all because it's not audiable over case fan and once case doors are on.

Anyways my gripe right now is the 2 included fans are both making a light buzzing noise. Once I stopped both fans the noise is gone. Is this a defect? It's currently plugged into the PWM splitter.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> okay just installed mine
> 
> In order to get it fit in my 500R case the rad & L shaped resevoir is upside down.
> 
> This is my first time with a watercooling unit...the sound of water trickling is normal? or is it supposed to be 100% inaudiable? not a dealbreaker at all because it's not audiable over case fan and once case doors are on.
> 
> Anyways my gripe right now is the 2 included fans are both making a light buzzing noise. Once I stopped both fans the noise is gone. Is this a defect? It's currently plugged into the PWM splitter.


trickling noise is normal and should go away after a few minutes of use. Even then it will make some noise from time to time.

cant say about your fans though. Mine seem quiet.


----------



## twitchyzero

No one else gets buzzing noise with fans when plugged into PWM splitter?

Any idea if having rad/res upside down will affect performance/longevity?


----------



## Avant Garde

Hello all!

Just would like to hear some thoughts will this great cooler fit in my Thermaltake Commander MS-III case?

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001850


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Just would like to hear some thoughts will this great cooler fit in my Thermaltake Commander MS-III case?
> 
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001850


judging by this picture alone

there isnt enough room to fit a ~27mm radiator as it looks like itll interfere with ram at a chance.


----------



## Avant Garde

Oh thats so sad... I would like to buy this great cooler but I must buy new case...and not an expensive one


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Oh thats so sad... I would like to buy this great cooler but I must buy new case...and not an expensive one


Corsair 200R $59.99 with a $10 MIR, so $49.99, and free shipping. I ordered it with a H220.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Sold out already? Well ****... there goes that idea.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> but for those that have experience using this kit in a custom loop your help would be much appreciated. It does sound like he is still having an issue bleeding the air out of his loop.


I have always pulled all my cooling loop out of my case. That way you can turn each component in the loop in every direction and tap on hoses. I have found it best to have an extra hand also from someone to help hold the components so I can cycle power, rotate, tap, shake the hoses and other components. That will also make it a little easier to help keep the reservoir as high as possible and the H220 pump low as possible. I usually do this for 10-15mins and let the system run for 5-10mins(how ever long it takes me to have a smoke) and repeat three or four more times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> No one else gets buzzing noise with fans when plugged into PWM splitter?


I have all my fans with the Noctua L.N.A.(Low-Noise Adaptor) plugged into my PWM splitter with no ill effects thus far. I really like that splitter cause now I do not have to worry about having a fan controller inside my bay.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> I have always pulled all my cooling loop out of my case. That way you can turn each component in the loop in every direction and tap on hoses. I have found it best to have an extra hand also from someone to help hold the components so I can cycle power, rotate, tap, shake the hoses and other components. That will also make it a little easier to help keep the reservoir as high as possible and the H220 pump low as possible. I usually do this for 10-15mins and let the system run for 5-10mins(how ever long it takes me to have a smoke) and repeat three or four more times.
> I have all my fans with the Noctua L.N.A.(Low-Noise Adaptor) plugged into my PWM splitter with no ill effects thus far. I really like that splitter cause now I do not have to worry about having a fan controller inside my bay.


In regards to last portion, the Noctua LNAs are fine for voltage-regulated fans, but if you use them on the Swiftech Helix PWM fans, those fans will only spin about 600 rpm or less since they'll only be supplied 9v. They are not designed to take less than 12v. This is NOT the case with non PWM voltage-regulated Helix fans however.


----------



## ez12a

Testing:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AnYWLa9GjG5tdGNZYnlxMlRjWDBuSzRydjladEp4Q3c&output=html

Form Link


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Good point Phelan. I did forget to mention that I do not have the 2-wire PWM cable on the splitter plugged into my motherboard.

Edit: Lol ez12a . I like your sig "i like to edit my posts, cause i keep thinking of other things to type" I do that all the time.

ez12a, are you posting that spread sheet cause you want me to fill it out or are you just updating it?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Good point Phelan. I did forget to mention that I do not have the 2-wire PWM cable on the splitter plugged into my motherboard.
> 
> Edit: Lol ez12a . I like your sig "i like to edit my posts, cause i keep thinking of other things to type" I do that all the time.
> 
> ez12a, are you posting that spread sheet cause you want me to fill it out or are you just updating it?


He was updating it and testing because I'm going to replace the current form in the OP to this one.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Edit: Lol ez12a . I like your sig "i like to edit my posts, cause i keep thinking of other things to type" I do that all the time.
> 
> ez12a, are you posting that spread sheet cause you want me to fill it out or are you just updating it?


when phelan updates the OP, please do! I had a problem with the embed code of the original form that automatically caused it to be censored. Most bizarre but I just came to a revelation on how to fix the problem this morning.














(Such a simple solution...)


----------



## paleh0rse14

So when will production and availability be back to normal? I never have any luck grabbing items that are only in stock for a few hours...


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> please do!


I can and I will. Just let me know when you guys are good to go.

Do you want just the stock H220 or my loop with the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 in the mix?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> So when will production and availability be back to normal? I never have any luck grabbing items that are only in stock for a few hours...


These should be available again in about three weeks, and shortly after that they'll be available regularly. This has been due to moving our production facility and then getting it running again.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> I can and I will. Just let me know when you guys are good to go.
> 
> Do you want just the stock H220 or my loop with the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 in the mix?


Please add whatever info you can about your current setup by filling out the new form live now in the OP







.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These should be available again in about three weeks, and shortly after that they'll be available regularly. This has been due to moving our production facility and then getting it running again.


I know about the move and understand. Will the shipments in three weeks include the SATA power? Are there any other major changes coming up?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> okay just installed mine
> 
> In order to get it fit in my 500R case the rad & L shaped resevoir is upside down.
> 
> This is my first time with a watercooling unit...the sound of water trickling is normal? or is it supposed to be 100% inaudiable? not a dealbreaker at all because it's not audiable over case fan and once case doors are on.
> 
> Anyways my gripe right now is the 2 included fans are both making a light buzzing noise. Once I stopped both fans the noise is gone. Is this a defect? It's currently plugged into the PWM splitter.


No, you need to point the reservoir UP or add a T line or separate reservoir to catch the air bubbles. The trickling noise is air caught in the pump and it won't go away if there is no reservoir or T line to trap it. A T ine is the cheapes solution, just need a 3/8" T fitting somewhere in the loop with the T branch pointing UP so air can be trapped and run up that brached tube line. You can then use this to fill from. Or you could buy a reservoir like th MCres which is compact, these work a little faster.

But NO it's not good to run the reservoir upside down unless you like the sound of trickling and air bubbles circulating in you loop all the time. Evaporation will continue over time and the air noise will only get worse.

I would add an Mcres to the loop if I were you. You can run it like it is for a while, but the separate res will make a nice addition.


----------



## witeboy07

Im going to sell my hd 7970's any idea what a good price it will be, I will be adding a Hd 7990 to the H220... when it comes out!


----------



## ohyouknow

Hey everybody. Just pounced on the H220 literally right before it was out of stock. Now I have some questions in regards as to how I should place it.

I currently run a Coolermaster HAF XB and due to the compact nature of the mobo layout I have some questions. If I run the radiator with push pull intake. I fear I will be jabbing hot air directly at my 670 which will increase temperatures. So would it be advisable to create an exhaust out of the front of the case, and switch the rear exhaust as an intake?

Maybe throw in a 200mm fan out the top as an exhaust as well?

Thanks everyone.

For reference.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119265


----------



## ElementR

You can spend $2.99 and get a female molex to male SATA adapter. LINK


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Just would like to hear some thoughts will this great cooler fit in my Thermaltake Commander MS-III case?
> 
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001850
> 
> 
> 
> judging by this picture alone
> 
> there isnt enough room to fit a ~27mm radiator as it looks like itll interfere with ram at a chance.
Click to expand...

First off, if you are not 100% sure, please do not answer. Guessing will cause issue.
As for the 200R, it's ok, but would be better to spend an extra $30 for a case that can properly fit watercooling.
.
Avant Garde the Thermaltake Commander MS-III uses off set 120mm fans on top. Similar to the Fractal Arc Midi R2, which will clear the ram.
Not sure if the rear fan or I/O shield will be in the way.

Please head over to Switech site and look at the measurements diagram and do some measurements.
http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> First off, if you are not 100% sure, please do not answer. Guessing will cause issue.
> As for the 200R, it's ok, but would be better to spend an extra $30 for a case that can properly fit watercooling.












The 200R can fit the H220 on the top and with a bit of modding you can put a 360 rad in the front of it. It can "properly fit" water cooling.


----------



## TheGovernment

I got one from the egg an hour after it was posted they were in stock! Few!!! I'm tired of waiting for NCIX to get them in.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 200R can fit the H220 on the top and with a bit of modding you can put a 360 rad in the front of it. It can "properly fit" water cooling.


That is all good. Some modding the top and front to get it to fit. Just want a case to fit, mobo clearance varies.

Just want a case to fit 100% with not knowing 100% if clearance will be an issue. Then this would be the better value.
Arc Midi R2 $30 more and no issues.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> No, you need to point the reservoir UP or add a T line or separate reservoir to catch the air bubbles. The trickling noise is air caught in the pump and it won't go away if there is no reservoir or T line to trap it. A T ine is the cheapes solution, just need a 3/8" T fitting somewhere in the loop with the T branch pointing UP so air can be trapped and run up that brached tube line. You can then use this to fill from. Or you could buy a reservoir like th MCres which is compact, these work a little faster.
> 
> But NO it's not good to run the reservoir upside down unless you like the sound of trickling and air bubbles circulating in you loop all the time. Evaporation will continue over time and the air noise will only get worse.
> 
> I would add an Mcres to the loop if I were you. You can run it like it is for a while, but the separate res will make a nice addition.


I always read your posts, and always find them informative. Just curious what you think is the reason that I can run it with the fill port pointed down without problems.

In one of my setups I have the H220 rad upside down at the top of my case, so the fans are below the rad. When I first got it I had it the standard way, and did the normal things to get any air out, then turned it over. I have zero trapped air noises or any issues.

I had to do this because it is an old TJ10 case that needs brackets to hold the res and fans. When installed with fans on top of the rad pushing in (which is the best way to go) I got a strange air crosscurrent sound that was annoying. If I placed my hand or piece of paper near the rad it would go away but normally it would produce an annoying whum, whum, whum sound. Switching the fans underneath for pull eliminated the sound. I didn't have that problem with the Switch 810 so it was something specific with my old case.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is all good. Some modding the top and front to get it to fit. Just want a case to fit, mobo clearance varies.
> 
> Just want a case to fit 100% with not knowing 100% if clearance will be an issue. Then this would be the better value.
> Arc Midi R2 $30 more and no issues.


I never said there was modding required to fit the h220 on the top. Ill post picture to prove I'm correct after I get my case and H220.


----------



## mb6079

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These should be available again in about three weeks, and shortly after that they'll be available regularly. This has been due to moving our production facility and then getting it running again.


hi there, i was just wondering, does this apply to europe too or are we due a sooner shipment by any chance?

thanks!


----------



## Avant Garde

Does someone know about Raidmax cases compatibility with H220? They are fairly cheap, good airflow and good looking cases...


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I always read your posts, and always find them informative. Just curious what you think is the reason that I can run it with the fill port pointed down without problems.
> 
> In one of my setups I have the H220 rad upside down at the top of my case, so the fans are below the rad. When I first got it I had it the standard way, and did the normal things to get any air out, then turned it over. I have zero trapped air noises or any issues.
> 
> I had to do this because it is an old TJ10 case that needs brackets to hold the res and fans. When installed with fans on top of the rad pushing in (which is the best way to go) I got a strange air crosscurrent sound that was annoying. If I placed my hand or piece of paper near the rad it would go away but normally it would produce an annoying whum, whum, whum sound. Switching the fans underneath for pull eliminated the sound. I didn't have that problem with the Switch 810 so it was something specific with my old case.


I don't believe you'll have problems per say. It's just that once some liquid evaporates, the level will drop below the tube openings in the rad. This is when you may begin to hear the trickling noise. The lower the level gets, the more you'll hear it. With the res pointed up, it will take much longer for that level to drop down to the tube level.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Does someone know about Raidmax cases compatibility with H220? They are fairly cheap, good airflow and good looking cases...


Raidmax cases are not good to get. They are cheap and more problems to use and airflow not so good.
If you want to fit the H220 without issues get the Fractal Arc Midi R2. Spend a little more over a cheap cases and you wont have problems asking if it will fit.


----------



## dbrisc

Sold out in a few hours. Have to keep my eyes open again!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is all good. Some modding the top and front to get it to fit. Just want a case to fit, mobo clearance varies.
> 
> Just want a case to fit 100% with not knowing 100% if clearance will be an issue. Then this would be the better value.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031
> 
> 
> 
> I never said there was modding required to fit the h220 on the top. Ill post picture to prove I'm correct after I get my case and H220.
Click to expand...

You can barely at times fit the H100/H100i. This is due to height clearance in the 200R and varies on mobo, ram and mosfets. No proof needed.
Take a look here, unless you mount he fans outside the case should be ok.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/07/corsair_carbide_series_200r_compact_atx_case_review/5#.UXLUHMq0csI


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> I don't believe you'll have problems per say. It's just that once some liquid evaporates, the level will drop below the tube openings in the rad. This is when you may begin to hear the trickling noise. The lower the level gets, the more you'll hear it. With the res pointed up, it will take much longer for that level to drop down to the tube level.


Good thing it only take a minute to take the res out, open the fill port, and top it off. It will be interesting to see how long it goes before I hear anything.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> First off, if you are not 100% sure, please do not answer. Guessing will cause issue.
> As for the 200R, it's ok, but would be better to spend an extra $30 for a case that can properly fit watercooling.
> .
> Avant Garde the Thermaltake Commander MS-III uses off set 120mm fans on top. Similar to the Fractal Arc Midi R2, which will clear the ram.
> Not sure if the rear fan or I/O shield will be in the way.
> 
> Please head over to Switech site and look at the measurements diagram and do some measurements.
> http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2


the problem is the major difference between the Midi R2 and the Thermaltake Commander MS-3 is width(looking from the front) specs wise, the Commander is rated 7.7" in width compared to the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 which is 9.06"(which is a significant difference)

here's an image i used as a ratio test for the top, where red is approx 120mm(4.7") by hand and green is the size from red -> motherboard backplate to some extent


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Its already a given that the MS-III specs wise is shorter height wise compared to the midi r2(MS-3 lacks even the top left cpu header hole) and will at the least hover over a portion of the top of the motherboard. It's whether the tallest part of the motherboard at the top(if you haev high profile heat spreaders, the pumps height if the cpu socket is father up north, the north bridge heatsinks height that will decide if the unit can fit in the green line(green line only accounted for backplate to some extent. it did not include the height of the motherboard standoffs) is the real question.


----------



## WizardontheJob

So I have a permanent bubble in my pump. No matter what I do, No matter how I prime the system, no matter how long I let the pump sit and spin, The bubble is not going *ANYWHERE*. The pump just sits there and gurgles furiously. No amount of shaking, rattling, tapping, rotating anything is helping.



Any more ideas?

Do I just let it sit overnight and hope the bubble comes out?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> First off, if you are not 100% sure, please do not answer. Guessing will cause issue.
> As for the 200R, it's ok, but would be better to spend an extra $30 for a case that can properly fit watercooling.
> .
> Avant Garde the Thermaltake Commander MS-III uses off set 120mm fans on top. Similar to the Fractal Arc Midi R2, which will clear the ram.
> Not sure if the rear fan or I/O shield will be in the way.
> 
> Please head over to Switech site and look at the measurements diagram and do some measurements.
> http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2
> 
> 
> 
> the problem is the major difference between the Midi R2 and the Thermaltake Commander MS-3 is width(looking from the front) specs wise, the Commander is rated 7.7" in width compared to the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 which is 9.06"(which is a significant difference)
> 
> here's an image i used as a ratio test for the top, where red is approx 120mm(4.7") by hand and green is the size from red -> motherboard backplate to some extent
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its already a given that the MS-III specs wise is shorter height wise compared to the midi r2(MS-3 lacks even the top left cpu header hole) and will at the least hover over a portion of the top of the motherboard. It's whether the tallest part of the motherboard at the top(if you haev high profile heat spreaders, the pumps height if the cpu socket is father up north, the north bridge heatsinks height that will decide if the unit can fit in the green line(green line only accounted for backplate to some extent. it did not include the height of the motherboard standoffs) is the real question.
Click to expand...

Your whole measurement is flawed, you should delete your post. The width varies on how much space behind mobo, will make width of case different. You didnt measure to the back of mobo tray.
The red line on the Arc is 140mm fan, not 120mm.
Going just by image wont help.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> No, you need to point the reservoir UP or add a T line or separate reservoir to catch the air bubbles. The trickling noise is air caught in the pump and it won't go away if there is no reservoir or T line to trap it. A T ine is the cheapes solution, just need a 3/8" T fitting somewhere in the loop with the T branch pointing UP so air can be trapped and run up that brached tube line. You can then use this to fill from. Or you could buy a reservoir like th MCres which is compact, these work a little faster.
> 
> But NO it's not good to run the reservoir upside down unless you like the sound of trickling and air bubbles circulating in you loop all the time. Evaporation will continue over time and the air noise will only get worse.
> 
> I would add an Mcres to the loop if I were you. You can run it like it is for a while, but the separate res will make a nice addition.


i think im gonna do that. i run mine upside down also but no noise only once in a while if the pump is at full speed.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Your whole measurement is flawed, you should delete your post. The width varies on how much space behind mobo, will make width of case different. You didnt measure to the back of mobo tray.
> The red line on the Arc is 140mm fan, not 120mm.
> Going just by image wont help.


you know saying that its 140mm proves my point even more. if i shortened the red line, it means the green lines size would increase, therefore the green line is longer which proves that there is much more room to fit a rad in a fractal midi r2 compared to the commander ms-3...

making the assumption that those larger holes are for the 120mm fans this blue/yellow comparison would be the NEW ratio


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







even if the measurements are slightly off. Its hands down not debatable that the ratio size between the fan and the other side of the case is favoring in the r2's favor


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Your whole measurement is flawed, you should delete your post. The width varies on how much space behind mobo, will make width of case different. You didnt measure to the back of mobo tray.
> The red line on the Arc is 140mm fan, not 120mm.
> Going just by image wont help.
> 
> 
> 
> you know saying that its 140mm proves my point even more. if i shortened the red line, it means the green lines size would increase, therefore the green line is longer which proves that there is much more room to fit a rad in a fractal midi r2 compared to the commander ms-3...
> 
> making the assumption that those larger holes are for the 120mm fans this blue/yellow comparison would be the NEW ratio
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> even if the measurements are slightly off. Its hands down not debatable that the ratio size between the fan and the other side of the case is favoring in the r2's favor
Click to expand...

Enough you're not help anyone. Unless you have 100% physical proof. Dont bother. Your point is not proven, so please stop posting about this. You have no clue as to how much clearance the case has where the mobo tray sits on.
So if you want to prove your point, then please buy the Thermaltake Commander MS-III and test it.
Show you this as its only one I found so far.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Enough you're not help anyone. Unless you have 100% physical proof. Dont bother. Your point is not proven, so please stop posting about this. You have no clue as to how much clearance the case has where the mobo tray sits on.
> So if you want to prove your point, then please buy the Thermaltake Commander MS-III and test it.
> Show you this as its only one I found so far.


which is why you have to measure out the space of the motherboard standoff to where the 120mm fan starts. then you have to subtract the tallest object on the motherboard *which is motherboard specific*, the thickness of the motherboard as well. Swiftech most likely does NOT have the unit, as its not a mainstream case being sold. There are also a limited amount of h220's out in existence. Not even a single user with a corsair h100 has an image of it with the unit in their case. The question would have forever been left unanswered because of that, which is where you go into speculation. of course, the user can buy the unit and try to fit it, but its better to know beforehand if the chance of fitting it is low before being disappointed when the unit arrives and cant fit it. what kind of measurements have you made. Your post was just unhelpful to the user at all. Mines at least tries to estimate how much room there is from the motherboard to the side of the radiator.

forside reference as well. I used to own a rosewill future gaming case, about .2 inches thinner in width compared to the commander and its top fans oriented to the left. That case could not fit a 240mmwith fans


----------



## TeeBlack

i would say the best midtower case for radiators is the Arc Midi 2


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> No, you need to point the reservoir UP or add a T line or separate reservoir to catch the air bubbles. The trickling noise is air caught in the pump and it won't go away if there is no reservoir or T line to trap it. A T ine is the cheapes solution, just need a 3/8" T fitting somewhere in the loop with the T branch pointing UP so air can be trapped and run up that brached tube line. You can then use this to fill from. Or you could buy a reservoir like th MCres which is compact, these work a little faster.
> 
> But NO it's not good to run the reservoir upside down unless you like the sound of trickling and air bubbles circulating in you loop all the time. Evaporation will continue over time and the air noise will only get worse.
> 
> I would add an Mcres to the loop if I were you. You can run it like it is for a while, but the separate res will make a nice addition.


I just checked again and the trickling is 100% gone. Will evaporation occur more quickly if it's upside down or should it still be good for refill until 3 more years as suggested by manufacturer?

Any idea if it affects performance having rad upside down?

Swiftech says the product is compatible with 500R so I shouldn't have to/want buy more additional parts to get it working 100% as it should. The 500R pic isn't clear but for 600R on their product page they have it installed upside down too.


I just don't see how the resesvoir L-shaped' nudge pointing up can fit the 500R when you have the fans installed in the case's top cut-out (the bottom of the cut-out is perfectly flat and doesn't accomodate the res)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

This is due to the Corsair case are tailored for there own products. The clearance form your mobo will determine how you will fit the H220.
You need to first measure if you have enough space.

To have the res pointed up you need to have the fan mounted on the rad. Reason ad is down is to allow the rad to mount directly to the case and the fans is above outside the case on top.
Having the res down, will leave no room for air bubbles. From time to time you will have to shake or flip the rad to remove the air bubbles. Also you will want to check fluid levels.


----------



## Klubhead

Finshed product.. GPU temps dropped 10c idle and 45c under full load.. much better than I expected.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> Finshed product.. GPU temps dropped 10c idle and 45c under full load.. much better than I expected.


what are your cpu temps since adding the gpu to the loop?


----------



## Crax

It seems that newegg.com had another restock of some sort. I was able to complete an order. Excited!!!!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> i would say the best midtower case for radiators is the Arc Midi 2


After switching to one myself, I'd have to agree. It's an absolute pleasure to work with! You can stick large radiators all over the damn thing, and everything else about it is top notch, as well. The only flaw I can list is the lack of a side fan where the window is. Otherwise, it seems flawless.


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> what are your cpu temps since adding the gpu to the loop?


I added a 120mm rad too, CPU temps went up 4c hitting 57c.. before adding to the loop max CPU was 53c..

this is P95 for 10 min, 8k-8k.. Haven't tested gaming temps yet..


----------



## ez12a

Really load it up with fur mark too to get everything toasty!

I saw a 20 c drop on my 670 and a 1c rise with everything loaded up


----------



## Klubhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Really load it up with fur mark too to get everything toasty!
> 
> I saw a 20 c drop on my 670 and a 1c rise with everything loaded up


lol.. this is the "1080p preset" .. what settings do you run when testing? (also, it's showing my stock cpu clock, it's actually clocked at 4.3ghz)



1 hour Crysis 3 (CPU only)


1 hour Crysis 3 (CPU+GPU+120mm Rad)


----------



## Yosarian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Do I just let it sit overnight and hope the bubble comes out?


It wouldn't be a bad idea. Now if that doesn't fix it, then perhaps adding a small drop of soap would be a good approach.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klubhead*
> 
> lol.. this is the "1080p preset" .. what settings do you run when testing? (also, it's showing my stock cpu clock, it's actually clocked at 4.3ghz)


when i ran it at default settings my 670 wouldnt boost to max clocks, so i run it at 2560x1440p on my 27" and was able to get it maxed out. a lot of warm air coming from the rads lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yosarian*
> 
> It wouldn't be a bad idea. Now if that doesn't fix it, then perhaps adding a small drop of soap would be a good approach.


I believe he has already added soap (and might be causing the problem he has now), so more probably would be a bad idea. unlike traditional loops we dont have a large reservoir of fluid for the soap to dissolve in.


----------



## wingclip

The darn thing is a fantasy! It doesn't exist anywhere and hasn't since the first week of March:devil:! Seriously, I am NOT exaggerating; I have hit every single store that Swiftech listed as a carrier of the H220 and in addition, thoroughly googled the H220 until I wore out the letter 'H' on my keyboard. Results = Nothing.

I placed a "Notify me" in every store that even thought they may carry it sometime soon and emailed the CS department of those stores that didn't have the option "Notify Me" available, asking them to send me an email if they get one... Nothing.

I really wanted one of these and my build is just sitting there waiting with all the hardware ready to go EXCEPT the H220. It's really bumming me out and after all this waiting, I'm afraid I'm going to have to buy a Thermaltake, or NZXT. But if anyone reads this and knows where I can get an H220 now, PLEASE tell me! I'll even consider an Open Box unit if it's out there and works.
Thanks, Rich
PS Even Swiftech doesn't know when or where! I spoke with them at least 4 times, the last being April 5th.


----------



## ez12a

I wonder what swiftech does with the debris jammed pumps or the pumps that turned out OK from RMA...refurb discounted pumps?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> I just checked again and the trickling is 100% gone. Will evaporation occur more quickly if it's upside down or should it still be good for refill until 3 more years as suggested by manufacturer?
> 
> Any idea if it affects performance having rad upside down?
> 
> Swiftech says the product is compatible with 500R so I shouldn't have to/want buy more additional parts to get it working 100% as it should. The 500R pic isn't clear but for 600R on their product page they have it installed upside down too.
> 
> 
> I just don't see how the resesvoir L-shaped' nudge pointing up can fit the 500R when you have the fans installed in the case's top cut-out (the bottom of the cut-out is perfectly flat and doesn't accomodate the res)


I've seen the pictures and think it was in error. Reservoir can't work pointing down. Theoretically you can bleed every last bubble out using a barb and tube extension outside of the case which will allow that for a while, but eventually there will be evaporation loss and the air needs a trap. I seriously doubt you can run inverted through the 3year warranty period.

Not my pictures, but I personally wouldn't show any inverted case pictures unless you added a note that an external reservoir or T is needed. Tubing is porous and will eventually evaporate some fluid. Both systems I tested had air in the system when starting and they needed the reservoir properly positioned upward to bleed right.


----------



## ez12a

I would have to say anyone running the reservoir fill port down should top off their reservoir if they want a more quieter system. My loop is filled to the brim as best as I could get it and it's quieter than stock form.

If i shake my h220 radiator, you cant hear anything (no air and water sloshing about).


----------



## twitchyzero

I'm not getting water trickling noises but rather find the fan noisy and the pump slightly buzzing
I'm more concerned about possible performance hinderance and/or the need to refill it much more often.

I'll wait to see what Swiftech's response to upside down reservoir.

Looks like I have a few options even they dont put it favourably:

1. return it and buy H100i
2. run both rad&fans in top cut-out without top mesh cover (increased dust into chassis)
3. dremel time


----------



## TeeBlack

i plan to expand mine sooner or later so when i do ill switch it.


----------



## Diablo85

This a good start?







H220 was ordered last night


----------



## Azefore

Looking at getting one of these to start my first "custom" wc loop. Not looking for ultimate performance cooling but rather just quiet since blower design coolers are bleh but would the pump in the H220 be too restricted by the addition of a 200mm radiator and then 2 x gpu blocks for my 670s?

If not Ill jump on one when available since it's got a perfect value point with what's included.


----------



## mastahg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> I'm not getting water trickling noises but rather find the fan noisy and the pump slightly buzzing
> I'm more concerned about possible performance hinderance and/or the need to refill it much more often.
> 
> I'll wait to see what Swiftech's response to upside down reservoir.
> 
> Looks like I have a few options even they dont put it favourably:
> 
> 1. return it and buy H100i
> 2. run both rad&fans in top cut-out without top mesh cover (increased dust into chassis)
> 3. dremel time


I ordered the h100i cause I was sick of waiting for the 220. It is the biggest POS ever! I was getting higher idle and load temps then my h60 with push pull. The software was buggy and I had to connect the two fans to separate headers on the pump unit otherwise i wasn't able to control both of the fans with a custom curve. I reseated it multiple times and tried multiple configurations of the pump and rad and was unable to get anywhere near as good temps as I was getting with the h60.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Looking at getting one of these to start my first "custom" wc loop. Not looking for ultimate performance cooling but rather just quiet since blower design coolers are bleh but would the pump in the H220 be too restricted by the addition of a 200mm radiator and then 2 x gpu blocks for my 670s?
> 
> If not Ill jump on one when available since it's got a perfect value point with what's included.


If the H220 could talk, it'd sound like George Lopez and say, "I got this!"


----------



## mugenkid

to all the SWIFTECH team i know this is new AIO setup and problems surfaced... (debris and air bubbles)
will i get this problems for the upcoming products? or all of these problems been fixed?
do i have to bleed my setup? if i buy one?
i remember seeing on the internet that the system was going to ship bleeded and 0 air bubbles? something like proffesional vaccumed, dont quite remember the exact words they used

im just concerned because im new on water cooling and taking it apart, also the other problem i dont want to be facing RMA if something happens cause i dont live in the USA or EUROPE where you guys have good RMA service

hope this questions can be answered cause i am deciding between the H220 and the H100i, i just want good cooling so im more inclined with the H220, but hearing so many problems i want to know if these problems are all been addressed?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mugenkid*
> 
> to all the SWIFTECH team i know this is new AIO setup and problems surfaced... (debris and air bubbles)
> will i get this problems for the upcoming products? or all of these problems been fixed?
> do i have to bleed my setup? if i buy one?
> i remember seeing on the internet that the system was going to ship bleeded and 0 air bubbles? something like proffesional vaccumed, dont quite remember the exact words they used
> 
> im just concerned because im new on water cooling and taking it apart, also the other problem i dont want to be facing RMA if something happens cause i dont live in the USA or EUROPE where you guys have good RMA service
> 
> hope this questions can be answered cause i am deciding between the H220 and the H100i, i just want good cooling so im more inclined with the H220, but hearing so many problems i want to know if these problems are all been addressed?


I can confirm that all of these units have been flushed and bled before shipment to resellers. We also vacuum filled them so that they won't require any additional bleeding once you get this kit. All of these units will be shipped this way from here on out and the pumps will be fully tested for defects.


----------



## Inacoma79

I've go my rad mounted vertically with the res at the bottom of my case. So far this kit is crazy quiet, once evap has run its course I'll let you all know how things are holding up. I must have ended up with one of the units with little issues. The pump makes whirring sound for 1-2 seconds on power up then dead silent from there.


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> I ordered the h100i cause I was sick of waiting for the 220. It is the biggest POS ever! I was getting higher idle and load temps then my h60 with push pull. The software was buggy and I had to connect the two fans to separate headers on the pump unit otherwise i wasn't able to control both of the fans with a custom curve. I reseated it multiple times and tried multiple configurations of the pump and rad and was unable to get anywhere near as good temps as I was getting with the h60.


My H100i was beast, well until the Water Extreme 2.0 and H220 came out. It is really outclassed by other coolers now (H110 is decent to). My replacement H220 makes a water trickling noise but as long as it works I really don't care all that much.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If the H220 could talk, it'd sound like George Lopez and say, "I got this!"


Well thats good then lol

I think I'll like the more clean look the combo will give off rather than a 655 pump/5.25" res would have


----------



## TeeBlack

i want to add an extra rad for my 7950 later. i was looking at the Xspc RX240, Alphacool UT60 240 or Monsta 240. do you guys think?


----------



## karupt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> My H100i was beast, well until the Water Extreme 2.0 and H220 came out. It is really outclassed by other coolers now (H110 is decent to). My replacement H220 makes a water trickling noise but as long as it works I really don't care all that much.


Is it a pleasant noise, like a water fountain? (srs question)


----------



## Sarah M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Just would like to hear some thoughts will this great cooler fit in my Thermaltake Commander MS-III case?
> 
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001850


Have you already bought the case? I have fitted the H220 to a Thermaltake Chaser Mk1 with four fans (push pull, two either side of rad) with great ease. The case is $150 AUD.
Hope this helps.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> I was looking at the Xspc RX240, Alphacool UT60 240 or Monsta 240. do you guys think?


I went with the Alphacool UT60 for a couple of reasons. It is all copper and cools well with low RPM fans. I could not find a review for the 240 radiators so I went off the reviews for the 360 radiators that I found here. I know it is probably not ideal but that is what I did. From my finding there all the top performers were all very close so I figured the 240 radiators would most likely have very similar results.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/


----------



## DrizzlePistol

I'm pretty pissed atm, pump worked for about 30 minutes and then right before I was about install windows, I got greeted with the "CPU fan error" message. I unplugged and plugged in again, nothing. Tapped the pump head and turned my case on its head, nothing. The pump is directly plugged in to the cpu motherboard header.

Now I'm guessing I have to pay a **** ton of money to ship it back for an RMA since I live in EU.
Already spent 250 dollars on this AiO and now this.... Swiftech I am disappointed...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> I'm pretty pissed atm, pump worked for about 30 minutes and then right before I was about install windows, I got greeted with the "CPU fan error" message. I unplugged and plugged in again, nothing. Tapped the pump head and turned my case on its head, nothing. The pump is directly plugged in to the cpu motherboard header.
> 
> Now I'm guessing I have to pay a **** ton of money to ship it back for an RMA since I live in EU.
> Already spent 250 dollars on this AiO and now this.... Swiftech I am disappointed...
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


You shouldn't plug the pump directly into the header. The 6w it can pull usually more than a fan header can handle. Even if you're only hooking the pump to PWM, use the splitter because it feeds the solid 12v through the molex plug and only pulls the PWM signal from the fan header. That way it can't overload the header.

Try it again but how I mentioned and report back.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> I went with the Alphacool UT60 for a couple of reasons. It is all copper and cools well with low RPM fans. I could not find a review for the 240 radiators so I went off the reviews for the 360 radiators that I found here. I know it is probably not ideal but that is what I did. From my finding there all the top performers were all very close so I figured the 240 radiators would most likely have very similar results.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/


I have the alphacool ST30 and it's great. great price for a quality rad.

Tip for those who are using speedfan: you can set alarms for certain fan RPMs (in this case lets go with the pump). I've set mine to beep and shutdown the computer if the rpms are <= 10 for the pump (shutdown.exe is a built in application in Windows. the actual command in cmd is "shutdown /s [ /t ]"). For those worried about leaving your computer on while you're away.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You shouldn't plug the pump directly into the header. The 6w it can pull usually more than a fan header can handle.


I would check your motherboard manual cause I believe most motherboard headers now days will handle upto 1amp.

Amps = Watts / Volts

Amps = 6 / 12

0.5 amps

If the pump draw is indeed 6 watts. I did not look it up.

Like Phelan said. So Using the PWM splitter may not be a bad idea. Since we do not know what the pumps actual current draw is at start up. I have always used a fan controlling device of some sort myself, so you will have a dedicated 12v source for all your cooling needs.

To be fair. The How To: installation videos linked on the Swiftech website does show the person from Martin's Liquid Labs using the PWM splitter in one video and in the other video by HiTechLegion.com using the Asus Sabertooth Z77 motherboard header for pump installation. So using either the PWM splitter or motherboard header should be acceptable.

http://www.swiftech.com/h220.aspx#tab4


----------



## DrizzlePistol

I'll try and report back when I get home, however it shouldn't matter since it worked for about 30 minutes when it was plugged directly

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> I'll try and report back when I get home, however it shouldn't matter since it worked for about 30 minutes when it was plugged directly
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


It may or may not be the problem, but it is an absolute possibility. If the header isn't beefy enough to support the pump, it'll still run it until the pump pulls too much power. Thepump doesn't always pull 6w. By comparison, most mobos except high-end, like ROG, will only support about 1.2w through the CPU fan header as it's only designed to run one fan.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It may or may not be the problem, but it is an absolute possibility. If the header isn't beefy enough to support the pump, it'll still run it until the pump pulls too much power. Thepump doesn't always pull 6w. By comparison, most mobos except high-end, like ROG, will only support about 1.2w through the CPU fan header as it's only designed to run one fan.


not sure about that, the P8Z68's manual states 1A, which is more than enough to power a 12v pump with 6 watts.


----------



## Avant Garde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> Have you already bought the case? I have fitted the H220 to a Thermaltake Chaser Mk1 with four fans (push pull, two either side of rad) with great ease. The case is $150 AUD.
> Hope this helps.


Nope. Still looking...


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It may or may not be the problem, but it is an absolute possibility. If the header isn't beefy enough to support the pump, it'll still run it until the pump pulls too much power. Thepump doesn't always pull 6w. By comparison, most mobos except high-end, like ROG, will only support about 1.2w through the CPU fan header as it's only designed to run one fan.


Just tried it, the freaking molex pin got loose so had to take both pins out of the white plastic (connector itself) and put them directly into the molex connector from the PSU. Still doesn`t work.

Wish I hadn`t bought this piece of crap (excuse my language), now to wait 5 weeks to get a new one









EDIT: Btw, my motherboard ASUS P8Z77-i ITX supports up to 1A on the CPU Connector


----------



## ez12a

Also for those using speedfan, if you're familiar with Rainmeter (which is awesome) you can download and customize a widget to look like this. Now I can have "heads up" monitoring of the RPMs and not actually have speedfan's window open and in the way.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Just tried it, the freaking molex pin got loose so had to take both pins out of the white plastic (connector itself) and put them directly into the molex connector from the PSU. Still doesn`t work.
> 
> Wish I hadn`t bought this piece of crap (excuse my language), now to wait 5 weeks to get a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Btw, my motherboard ASUS P8Z77-i ITX supports up to 1A on the CPU Connector


Gotchya. I didn't know which mobo you use and was basing my info mainly off of Martin's findings. Anyway, Bacata handles Swiftech's RMAs in the EU, so it _shouldn't_ take 5 weeks for an RMA. Sorry about your troubles; maybe you got one that has debris stuck in an impeller? If that's the case you could flush it and have it running afterward. That's well within the acceptances for the warrantee if you want to try that.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> To be fair. The How To: installation videos linked on the Swiftech website does show the person from Martin's Liquid Labs using the PWM splitter in one video and in the other video by HiTechLegion.com using the Asus Sabertooth Z77 motherboard header for pump installation. So using either the PWM splitter or motherboard header should be acceptable.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/h220.aspx#tab4


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> not sure about that, the P8Z68's manual states 1A, which is more than enough to power a 12v pump with 6 watts.


Indeed ez12a.

I have since edit my original post like 20 times(ez12a knows how that goes







) and here is what I ended with in case anyone missed it. Neither video gives any kind of disclaimer on not to use the H220 pump on a motherboard header.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Gotchya. I didn't know which mobo you use and was basing my info mainly off of Martin's findings. Anyway, Bacata handles Swiftech's RMAs in the EU, so it _shouldn't_ take 5 weeks for an RMA. Sorry about your troubles; maybe you got one that has debris stuck in an impeller? If that's the case you could flush it and have it running afterward. That's well within the acceptances for the warrantee if you want to try that.


Thanks for the help though! If I were to flush it, would distilled water (battery water as it`s called over here) be sufficient? Or do I need something else to replace the liquid that`s already inside.
Btw, do you by any chance how Bacata deals with RMA`s? Like do I have to send in the unit before I get a new one?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Thanks for the help though! If I were to flush it, would distilled water (battery water as it`s called over here) be sufficient? Or do I need something else to replace the liquid that`s already inside.
> Btw, do you by any chance how Bacata deals with RMA`s? Like do I have to send in the unit before I get a new one?


No prob! Contact Bryan (BramSLI). He'sthe most active Swiftech rep and can get you all the info you'll need to RMA through Bacata. Distilled water is the best option for flushing the system. A couple pages back there are how-to videos; now that I think about it when I have time I'll add them to the OP.


----------



## mikuli040

The pump problem is back again even if I flushed, H220 cable is put in the PWM splitter CH1. Here you have the video


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> A couple pages back there are how-to videos; now that I think about it when I have time I'll add them to the OP.


that is a good idea along with some FAQs.


----------



## justanoldman

If you have a working unit that is new and has air trapped or gurgling sounds then you should move the unit around, tilt the case in different directions, run the pump at 100%, and turn it off and on several times. Doing those things eliminated any sounds of that sort from both my units when I first got them. You should only be left with a light buzzing from the pump which is normal, and the sound of the fans.

If anyone continues to have pump issues, and flushing it doesn't help then I would contact Swiftech about an RMA no matter where you live. If they don't handle your area then they can at least help with following up with the company that does to make sure you get a new unit in a reasonable amount of time.

Distilled water is perfect for flushing the unit, but you don't want to run it with just that after. The best thing to do is order more blue Swiftech coolant to fill it back up. If you want to filter the coolant in there and reuse it, or add something to distilled water and use that as coolant, you should contact Swiftech first to see if they approve of whatever you are doing so you won't end up with problems down the line.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Also for those using speedfan, if you're familiar with Rainmeter (which is awesome) you can download and customize a widget to look like this. Now I can have "heads up" monitoring of the RPMs and not actually have speedfan's window open and in the way.


how you get the fan speeds and everything? are your fans hooked up to the splitter?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> how you get the fan speeds and everything? are your fans hooked up to the splitter?


i have 2 CPU fan headers on my mobo. Main CPU header has the splitter + pump + fan and reports pump speed. Secondary CPU header has the other PWM fan that reports its speed. Since the two headers operate on the same control/circuit I can hopefully assume the fan speed of the splitter connected fan is the same as the fan connected to the second CPU header. The 2 headers though controlled as one, report speeds individually.

The "H220" Fans are actually my 2 gentle typhoons controlled via voltage on the other motherboard headers.

Rainmeter's speedfan widget takes some configuring out of the box to work exactly how you want it.


----------



## TeeBlack

im too lazy to for all that lol. but the alarm thing for speedfan is good idea. ill try that instead


----------



## ExpertTrigger

Hey guys, for protecting my computer in case of pump failure. I've been using CoreTemp. It has a setting called Overheat Protection which monitors your temps and when a threshold is reached shuts down the computer. It's take about 10 secs to set up.

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp


----------



## TeeBlack

RealTemp has an alarm also but i dont think it shuts down the computer.


----------



## Phishy714

Hey guys, I got my replacement pump on Friday. Currently pulling my hair out trying to get it to work. Currently have it hooked up to the splitter directly. Have a gpu block and second 240 rad and seperate 5.25" bay res.

It simply isn't moving any water.. question is, do I need to completely drain the loop to do this, or am I able to just unplug the old pump, drain the res, and plug the new one in while of course filling the res up again and getting water into the pump inlet? Idon't see why I wouldn't be able to just plug it in, but I defer to those more experienced..

Here's a quick vid:






While you can't really hear it in the vid, the pump does turn on and it hums ever so silently - can also feel it turn on when you grab the body. This happens no matter what outlet I have hooked it up to on the splitter.


----------



## paleh0rse14

The number of failures being reported this week is rather alarming... what the heck is going on?!


----------



## mikuli040

The pumps is something terribly wrong, but what ?? it would be nice to know


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikuli040*
> 
> The pumps is something terribly wrong, but what ?? it would be nice to know


A bit alarmist and off the mark. We have had what.. 10 bad pumps reported in the last week? Most of these "bad pumps" have been because of debris or bad priming, or user error when setting up. Out of all the units sold, I would HARDLY say this is "terribly" wrong.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my replacement pump on Friday. Currently pulling my hair out trying to get it to work. Currently have it hooked up to the splitter directly. Have a gpu block and second 240 rad and seperate 5.25" bay res.
> 
> It simply isn't moving any water.. question is, do I need to completely drain the loop to do this, or am I able to just unplug the old pump, drain the res, and plug the new one in while of course filling the res up again and getting water into the pump inlet? Idon't see why I wouldn't be able to just plug it in, but I defer to those more experienced..
> 
> Here's a quick vid:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While you can't really hear it in the vid, the pump does turn on and it hums ever so silently - can also feel it turn on when you grab the body. This happens no matter what outlet I have hooked it up to on the splitter.


So you definitely tried in CH. 1? I noticed in the vid it appeared not to be plugged into CH. 1.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> So you definitely tried in CH. 1? I noticed in the vid it appeared not to be plugged into CH. 1.


Yup, tried in every single slot actually..

In my desperation, I noticed that the front panel with the logo on the new pump was upside down.. I decided to switch the pump around in sight hopes that it was assembled backwards.

The pump turned on and I actually heard gurgling from it. It brought water out of the gpu block but didn't do anything else.. almost like the outlet was blocked, but at this point, I'm not sure what else to do..


----------



## Phishy714

I decided to plug in the old pump - the one that has the random shut downs and start ups when connected directly to the psu and everything else really.. Everything else stayed the same - this is the difference:

RMA pump plugged in: 




Old Pump: 




The old one is definitly pumping water - the new one seems dead on the spot..

sigh.. I am quickly starting to regret my H220 purchase and wish I had just spent a little more on a pump/cpu block.


----------



## TechSilver13

I want a custom loop to. But the one I want is around 500 for quality parts. That doesn't even include GPU blocks which are 130 a piece and another 2x 120 60mm rad. So its close to a grand. :-/ it makes me sad.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## paleh0rse14

I'm actually considering the H20-220 Elite kit instead of the H220, but there aren't many people using it. At $240, with an Apogee D2 block and a MCP35X pump, it seems like a fair price; but, I'm just not sure how much better it performs than the more basic H220. Is the extra $100 truly worth it?

There aren't any shootouts that compare the Elite kit to DIY kits in the same price range, nor are there any direct comparisons with the H220 -- so, I'm basically at a loss for data while trying to make this decision...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Yup, tried in every single slot actually..
> 
> In my desperation, I noticed that the front panel with the logo on the new pump was upside down.. I decided to switch the pump around in sight hopes that it was assembled backwards.
> 
> The pump turned on and I actually heard gurgling from it. It brought water out of the gpu block but didn't do anything else.. almost like the outlet was blocked, but at this point, I'm not sure what else to do..


it sounds like something maybe is lodged in it. I would hook the outlet of the intermittently working pump to the out let on the new one, plug in only the old one, and try to backflush the new one by pumping water through the old one myself.


----------



## rickymartin06

I think ill just go with the h110 corsair they will send more in 3weeks! And everyone is having problems with their pumps I think ill just go save with h110


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I'm actually considering the H20-220 Elite kit instead of the H220, but there aren't many people using it. At $240, with an Apogee D2 block and a MCP35X pump, it seems like a fair price; but, I'm just not sure how much better it performs than the more basic H220. Is the extra $100 truly worth it?
> 
> There aren't any shootouts that compare the Elite kit to DIY kits in the same price range, nor are there any direct comparisons with the H220 -- so, I'm basically at a loss for data while trying to make this decision...


The H20-220 Elite will perform identical to the H220 on it's own up to 3K RPM. The only time you'd need higher RPM is if you have a ton of stuff in the loop. If you add 7 or 8 other pieces to the loop (rads, blocks, reses), the Elite will pull ahead. The Elite does have the advantage of using G1/4" ports however.


----------



## ez12a

yeah isnt the Apogee D2 like 4 GPM vs. the H220's ~1GPM? its a lot more powerful, but that's also why the lone Apogee costs as much as the whole H220 kit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yeah isnt the Apogee D2 like 4 GPM vs. the H220's ~1GPM? its a lot more powerful, but that's also why the lone Apogee costs as much as the whole H220 kit.


THe H220 is made by Swiftech, while Apogee D2 is made by a Lang and has Swiftech name on it.
The Apogee D2 4GPM is at 4500rpm, the H220 performs similar so the difference is very small.


----------



## witeboy07

I finished modifying my crossfire set-up as the bridge wouldn't reach from slot 1 to slot 4. Went ahead and put them on x16 mode. My temps are still awesome. Thinking about adding another 240mm radiator. I currently have the h220 & @ phat 120.

Sent from my HUAWEI MT1-U06


----------



## witeboy07

Sent from my HUAWEI MT1-U06


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> THe H220 is made by Swiftech, while Apogee D2 is made by a Lang and has Swiftech name on it.
> The Apogee D2 4GPM is at 4500rpm, the H220 performs similar so the difference is very small.


The pump on the AD2 is Laing, but the ad2 is still made by Swiftech. Also the flow rate @3K rpm on the AD2 is 1 gpm. It goes up exponentially as the rpms increase, hence the 4 gpm max. The new in-house pump from Swiftech can actually flow more than the Laing pump at 4500 rpm, but for silence and economics it was hard set to max at 3K rpm for the H220.


----------



## MerkageTurk

how comes i have no issues from first day (knock on wood); is it because my one is UK edition


----------



## Julsmba

Mine is rock solid, working day and night, i have it since 22nd february.








Hope it will continue like that


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> how comes i have no issues from first day (knock on wood); is it because my one is UK edition


No, it is because the very few people who have had problems have been exceedingly vocal about it. And you have people who have not purchased chiming in that the bad reports they have seen have convinced them to not purchase the H220. I have 2 myself and couldn't be happier, the same is true for about 97% of the people who purchased one from the very first production run batch.

I would say the product is doing just fine.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Didn't Bryan say that MicroCenter is also getting a shipment? Did theirs already sell out as well?


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> No, it is because the very few people who have had problems have been exceedingly vocal about it. And you have people who have not purchased chiming in that the bad reports they have seen have convinced them to not purchase the H220. I have 2 myself and couldn't be happier, the same is true for about 97% of the people who purchased one from the very first production run batch.
> 
> I would say the product is doing just fine.


Just want to chime in on this, mine was one of the earliest ones ordered directly from Swiftech, and it has had 0 issues. The vast majority of people using the h220 are not having issues. Every product will have issues to some extent. Swiftech's customer service is on par with the best in the business(if not outright the best).


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> No, it is because the very few people who have had problems have been exceedingly vocal about it. And you have people who have not purchased chiming in that the bad reports they have seen have convinced them to not purchase the H220. I have 2 myself and couldn't be happier, the same is true for about 97% of the people who purchased one from the very first production run batch.
> 
> I would say the product is doing just fine.


Yes, but some of us have had two failing pumps in a row, which is a bit frustrating and the RMA process + installation/de-installation always takes some time. I haven't seen anyone overreacting about their problems yet. Swiftech already said that there were problems with their first batch, so after two pump failures I would like to see how their next batch works before going for it. Flip a coin and get lucky with the first batch, seems like you were the winner twice in a row.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> This a good start?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H220 was ordered last night


Bumping this as now i have a question regarding the coolant I ordered http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14368/ex-liq-193/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_32_oz_-_Clear_PC-Base32.html?id=ATXs32CJ&mv_pc=2160 . is that safe to use in a cooling loop on its own? if not, can you recommend a CLEAR or WHITE coolant that can be used on its own?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Yes, but some of us have had two failing pumps in a row, which is a bit frustrating and the RMA process + installation/de-installation always takes some time. I haven't seen anyone overreacting about their problems yet. Swiftech already said that there were problems with their first batch, so after two pump failures I would like to see how their next batch works before going for it. Flip a coin and get lucky with the first batch, seems like you were the winner twice in a row.


One guy almost did overreact.

I wasn't saying people haven't been having issues or they haven't been frustrating for those who have been having them. My point was this product was released and has been generally VERY successful, and met the owners requirements completely. I have my doubts having come from a technical support experience, and working as a software developer that those who are having multiple issues in a row aren't in fact doing something wrong, but I have been giving people the benefit of the doubt and have been helping them to troubleshoot their issue to get it solved.

The numbers don't lie, this has been a very successful new product launch by any metrics, and the QC was actually quite good for the initial launch. Your coin flip analogy belies the likelihood of the two "bad flips" in a row. With over 97% of the units not being returned which were sold, there is no way you have a 25% chance of receiving 2 bad units consecutively.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I want a custom loop to. But the one I want is around 500 for quality parts. That doesn't even include GPU blocks which are 130 a piece and another 2x 120 60mm rad. So its close to a grand. :-/ it makes me sad.
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


Yeah, I was originally going for an H220, but I knew I wanted more, so I just bombed $1200 USD on all my custom parts...
Straight truth though? If I didn't have all that to waste, I'd be mounting an H220 for _sure_!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickymartin06*
> 
> I think ill just go with the h110 corsair they will send more in 3weeks! And everyone is having problems with their pumps I think ill just go save with h110


*everyone*






















Oh, I wish we could neg. rep people...








AND drown the Corsair fanbois in their own drool too.
Listen here fella, this is a first-stage product, meaning all these fine people are the first adopters, and if the ones that are here are any indication, then I'd say we have what? ...A 500:1 failure rate? Even that? Anyone got numbers? Gabe? Bryan?
Even then, I'd take a failed pump once from Swiftech just to see a CSR or _company president and founder_ answer my questions on an enthusiast's forum any day over Corsair's pitiful excuse for C.S.
These







may look biased, but only because I wear Swiftech products like war trophies, and they work!

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Bumping this as now i have a question regarding the coolant I ordered http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14368/ex-liq-193/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_32_oz_-_Clear_PC-Base32.html?id=ATXs32CJ&mv_pc=2160 . is that safe to use in a cooling loop on its own? if not, can you recommend a CLEAR or WHITE coolant that can be used on its own?


We don't have any data on these other coolants and therefore I can't give you any indication of how well they will work in your loop.


----------



## SDBolts619

Just to chime in, after I RMA'ed my first unit due to the pump stopping (which turned out to be debris in the pump) my second unit has had zero issues. And to be honest, even though I modified the tubing length, I didn't do the standard bleeding process - I 'bled' the system by having the pump lower than the reservoir and using a funnel to fill the system - fill it, shake the system, tap on it, twist the pump around, etc, then fill it again until it wouldn't take any more fluid. Then I sealed it all up and installed it. What's more, my radiator/reservoir are mounted below the block. Despite all this, I've not even had any of the gurgling or bubbling noises from it at all - it's as silent as can be unless I'm benchmarking, then when the fans and pump spin up to maximum, they're slightly audible.

Right now, my entire system is apart, as I'm doing custom cables and sleeving for it. I figured while it was out, I'd go ahead and tidy up my radiator adapter plate - sanded it up so it's a little smoother and am spray painting it satin black to match the rest of the system. I think I'm also going to flip my pump around so I can hide the pump PWM lead better - but it looks like the cable may not be long enough, so I might have to solder in some extensions to it...

Pics of the update once it's done. But just to reiterate, even with my RMA'ed unit, I've been very happy with both the H220 and Swiftech's service.


----------



## mb6079

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't have any data on these other coolants and therefore I can't give you any indication of how well they will work in your loop.


alright mate? sorry for bugging you by asking again but do you have any eta on when we might expect some more h220s in europe? forgive my impatience but its the last part of the puzzle in my first new build in years

thanks either way


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Bumping this as now i have a question regarding the coolant I ordered http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14368/ex-liq-193/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_32_oz_-_Clear_PC-Base32.html?id=ATXs32CJ&mv_pc=2160 . is that safe to use in a cooling loop on its own? if not, can you recommend a CLEAR or WHITE coolant that can be used on its own?


You do not want to use that product by itself, it says so in the description. I don't see the point of buying that particular product. Just regular distilled water, and a good additive is fine. Since you have the H220 I think the Swiftech blue coolant is the way to go.

If you really need clear you can call Frozen and ask what they recommend. Frozen recommended distilled water with Liquid Utopia to me:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13066/ex-liq-164/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_Bomb_Bottle_-_15mL_-_Clear_PCLUBT-CLR.html


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Didn't Bryan say that MicroCenter is also getting a shipment? Did theirs already sell out as well?


I think my post above got lost in the shuffle about QC... anyone know the answer?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mb6079*
> 
> alright mate? sorry for bugging you by asking again but do you have any eta on when we might expect some more h220s in europe? forgive my impatience but its the last part of the puzzle in my first new build in years
> 
> thanks either way


Due to the fact that we've moved our production facility, and just restarted production, it's going to be another couple of weeks or so before these are available in Europe again. I'll try to keep everyone here posted as to updates on this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I think my post above got lost in the shuffle about QC... anyone know the answer?


Micro Center should have these available in the next couple of days. Maybe even later today. It all depends on when they decide to update their product catalog because they do have them.


----------



## mb6079

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the fact that we've moved our production facility, and just restarted production, it's going to be another couple of weeks or so before these are available in Europe again. I'll try to keep everyone here posted as to updates on this.


okay thanks, specialtech had them listed to be in stock on may 2nd but that info is now gone from the page, and the product page has been removed entirely from overclock.co.uk so it had me a bit confused, thanks again


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mb6079*
> 
> okay thanks, specialtech had them listed to be in stock on may 2nd but that info is now gone from the page, and the product page has been removed entirely from overclock.co.uk so it had me a bit confused, thanks again


I don't think overclock.co.uk will be carrying these anymore at all. I would check Specialtech once these become available in Europe again.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Micro Center should have these available in the next couple of days. Maybe even later today. It all depends on when they decide to update their product catalog because they do have them.


I'm assuming you mean MicroCenter's online store, correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I'm assuming you mean MicroCenter's online store, correct?


That's correct. I don't see it listed on their online store at all yet, but it should be listed shortly.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. I don't see it listed on their online store at all yet, but it should be listed shortly.


ok, great... time to wear out my refresh button.

uhg...


----------



## twitchyzero

Total noob question
I'm unsure how to control pump speed
right now I have an annoying whine and I'm trying to run it at a lower RPM

I have pump plugged into CH1 of the PWM splitter and the 2 helix on the adjacent 2 slots. The splitter is connected to mobo CPU fan header (this is all as instructed in the h220 manual)

I'm folowing Martin's guide but mine's a bit different



His Controlled Speed drop down menu has CPU but mine just has PWM1/PWM2/PWM3. And under temperature again he has CPU but mine has specific cores (I've simply added Core0)

I've selected PWM1 and set the curve to have 20% RPM @ 20 degrees and 100%RPM @ 65 degrees.

Pump noise has not changed though.

I went to BIOS and my fan speed has preset Normal/Silent/Disabled/Manual. It's kept at Normal because at Manual it has 'slope PWM' ie 0.75PWM value per degree Celsius.

Even if it's set at normal I was able to adjust fan speed under EasyTune6....so my question still goes back to adjusting the pump speed. Right now at 10% speed fan shows 1200RPM that's the fan speed...I cant tell where to read the pump speed.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Total noob question
> I'm unsure how to control pump speed
> right now I have an annoying whine and I'm trying to run it at a lower RPM
> 
> I went to BIOS and my fan speed has preset Normal/Silent/Disabled/Manual. It's kept at Normal because at Manual it has 'slope PWM' ie 0.75PWM value per degree Celsius.
> 
> Even if it's set at normal I was able to adjust fan speed under EasyTune6....so my question still goes back to adjusting the pump speed. Right now at 10% speed fan shows 1200RPM that's the fan speed...I cant tell where to read the pump speed.


You are controlling the pump speed through the splitter if i'm understanding you correctly. The minimum pump speed is 1200 RPM, no matter how low you go in SpeedFan or any control utility. If you have the splitter plugged into a fan header and the pump plugged into the #1 position, it will read the pump's speed.


----------



## twitchyzero

yeah the connection is exactly as recommended in the H220 Manual...so I'm assuming if I run the speed at 20% @ 20 degrees that means 20% fan AND 20% pump speed? That seems to make sense as when I turn the speed to 90% I can hear water rushing through the unit.

Unfortunately, pump whine is still audible over case door + fans @ pump speed 1200rpm














Looks like RMA time.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> yeah the connection is exactly as recommended in the H220 Manual...so I'm assuming if I run the speed at 20% @ 20 degrees that means 20% fan AND 20% pump speed? That seems to make sense as when I turn the speed to 90% I can hear water rushing through the unit.
> 
> Unfortunately, pump whine is quite audible over case door + fans at 1200rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Imma RMA my unit once the new batch is out.


yup, everything connected to the splitter will be controlled by the same ratio. Though the actual speed in terms of RPM may be different (fans only go up to 1800 or something, pump 3000).


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> yeah the connection is exactly as recommended in the H220 Manual...so I'm assuming if I run the speed at 20% @ 20 degrees that means 20% fan AND 20% pump speed? That seems to make sense as when I turn the speed to 90% I can hear water rushing through the unit.
> 
> Unfortunately, pump whine is quite audible over case door + fans at 1200rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Imma RMA my unit once the new batch is out.


One point, I hope things go well for your RMA if the pump whine is something broken. The PWM percentage range, which you will adjust is simply the full range the motor will fluctuate its RPMs to match.

For example, if you set 50% you would likely be setting your pump for 2100 RPM, while 0% would be not off, but only 1200 RPM as this is the lowest speed the pump will run. I am not sure if you understand this, as I am not trying to restate this if you know, but this could be an important distinction for other people to read.


----------



## nich666

Hi, I found them on Amazon France (of all places) for €155 inc. delivery. Ordered 9/4/13 arrived a few days later. Regards, Brian. PS. Just checked, they have them on there now.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yup, everything connected to the splitter will be controlled by the same ratio. Though the actual speed in terms of RPM may be different (fans only go up to 1800 or something, pump 3000).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> For example, if you set 50% you would likely be setting your pump for 2100 RPM, while 0% would be not off, but only 1200 RPM as this is the lowest speed the pump will run. I am not sure if you understand this, as I am not trying to restate this if you know, but this could be an important distinction for other people to read.


Yeap it's as I understood it.

Can anyone comment on recent RMAs? Turnaround time, pre-paid shipping? latest batch that's been vaccum-sealed/tested/debris-free?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Yeap it's as I understood it.
> 
> Can anyone comment on recent RMAs? Turnaround time, pre-paid shipping? latest batch that's been vaccum-sealed/tested/debris-free?


I live in the same state as Swiftech HQ, so it took 2 days for me to get a pump in my hands (cross shipped, so I dont have to send the pump in first and wait for them to receive it.). Shipping was paid for by Swiftech entirely. Nothing out of pocket for me. Better than an experience with Corsair.

Bryan personally tested the replacement pump before sending and it's quietly humming away in my computer at this very moment.







Might mention that since my loop was custom, only a pump was needed and I didnt send back my entire kit.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Bumping this as now i have a question regarding the coolant I ordered http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14368/ex-liq-193/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_32_oz_-_Clear_PC-Base32.html?id=ATXs32CJ&mv_pc=2160 . is that safe to use in a cooling loop on its own? if not, can you recommend a CLEAR or WHITE coolant that can be used on its own?
> 
> 
> 
> You do not want to use that product by itself, it says so in the description. I don't see the point of buying that particular product. Just regular distilled water, and a good additive is fine. Since you have the H220 I think the Swiftech blue coolant is the way to go.
> 
> If you really need clear you can call Frozen and ask what they recommend. Frozen recommended distilled water with Liquid Utopia to me:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13066/ex-liq-164/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_Bomb_Bottle_-_15mL_-_Clear_PCLUBT-CLR.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out, i must have missed where it said that it couldn't be used on its own when i ordered it. I wanted clear or white coolant because I also ordered one of the Mayhem Red dye's and clear tubing. Luckily, i was able to contact frozen cpu and have them switch out the coolant to this before it had been picked up for shipping


----------



## paleh0rse14

Speaking of third-party coolants, how many ounces of coolant are required for the stock H220 loop?


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I live in the same state as Swiftech HQ, so it took 2 days for me to get a pump in my hands (cross shipped, so I dont have to send the pump in first and wait for them to receive it.). Shipping was paid for by Swiftech entirely. Nothing out of pocket for me. Better than an experience with Corsair.


So they do advanced replacement RMA and both ways is paid for? Awesome if true like the Dell monitor replacements. Since it's still within return policy I may try and exchange at retail store unless they wanna charge me shipping...although they are all OOS for a few more weeks. Was your replacement pump new or a refurb'd? Doesn't really matter if it's working


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> So they do advanced replacement RMA and both ways is paid for? Awesome if true like the Dell monitor replacements. Since it's still within return policy I may try and exchange at retail store unless they wanna charge me shipping...although they are all OOS for a few more weeks. Was your replacement pump new or a refurb'd? Doesn't really matter if it's working


My refurb isn't working









http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/1830#post_19807041


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> My refurb isn't working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/1830#post_19807041


I've got an idea that might just fix the issue. I'm sending you a PM right now to see if you're willing to try it.


----------



## Azefore

Well reconsidered my loop, going to sell one of my 670s and keep the other and then just buy the top next gen card when it comes out. As to avoid card value drops as much as possible.

Just need some of the vendors to get a H220 in stock and I shall begin *rubs hands together*


----------



## mb6079

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nich666*
> 
> Hi, I found them on Amazon France (of all places) for €155 inc. delivery. Ordered 9/4/13 arrived a few days later. Regards, Brian. PS. Just checked, they have them on there now.


wow that was a good find, they wont ship to where i live though


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Was your replacement pump new or a refurb'd? Doesn't really matter if it's working


yep, nothing out of pocket. new as far as i could tell, and stated by Bryan. Copper cold plate had no markings from the CPU IHS of a previous mount and came with a new back plate which I returned with the bad pump.

A more detailed timeline of my return experience with Swiftech:

-Wednesday: after leak testing for several hours, the pump started shutting off with the computer powered on. Contacted Swiftech after work, Gabe responded that evening requesting the unit be returned.

-Thursday: I get in contact with Bryan, arranged the return, and he ships the pump out with a return label that day.

-Friday: received pump, I install it and complete my rig which i brought to work. I return the pump to the UPS guy the same day who makes deliveries all over my workplace.

I'd rather not say 2 days because it's technically overnight for me







I can only hope that they are able to continue the level of service as more H220 products and its variants are sold.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> My H100i was beast, well until the Water Extreme 2.0 and H220 came out. It is really outclassed by other coolers now (H110 is decent to). My replacement H220 makes a water trickling noise but as long as it works I really don't care all that much.


How in the heck did you even get a second one?! I can't even find my first! No one, and I mean NO ONE, has it for sale anywhere, not even Swiftech for crying out loud!

I've been on every "Notify Me" list in every PC Parts store since the end of the third week in February 2013 and regularly email CS departments of these Internet dealers but still no luck. Does anyone have a lead as to where I can get a Swiftech H220 now?
Thanks, Rich


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> How in the heck did you even get a second one?! I can't even find my first! No one, and I mean NO ONE, has it for sale anywhere, not even Swiftech for crying out loud!
> 
> I've been on every "Notify Me" list in every PC Parts store since the end of the third week in February 2013 and regularly email CS departments of these Internet dealers but still no luck. Does anyone have a lead as to where I can get a Swiftech H220 now?
> Thanks, Rich


production is just getting restarted in swiftechs side. itll be a bit before more units come in. How people find their units usually will be posted in this thread or posted on sites which advertise sales(e.g slickdeals, /r/buildapcsales). Following this thread, so far, every moment on which the h220 was up for sale notified this thead, be it initially during preorders when frozencpu/ncix put it up. up until the recent ~100 stock sent to newegg, which sold out in the time frame of a few hours due to it being posted on the web. Sort of have to check back on this thread constantly to get the news update on possible units. Once swiftech starts shipping out the next batch, units should regularly hit the shelves at a more constant rate, especially if the units become even more popular and the demand gets created. The emails are simply just to slow with the amount of units being delivered right now.


----------



## twitchyzero

just curious for future expandibility
is the current loop strong enough to add another GPU block with the GPU OC'd? Or will it require at least another 120mm rad?


----------



## wingclip

Thanks Dudewitbow! I'm glad I just posted this because I've had all the parts and case for a new build and I was about to give up and buy the ThermalTake 240mm.

But I'll throw in another 3 or 4 weeks and see what happens. Thanks for the tip.
Rich


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> just curious for future expandibility
> is the current loop strong enough to add another GPU block with the GPU OC'd? Or will it require at least another 120mm rad?


The stock unit can handle an added OC'd GPU so long as both the GPU and CPU aren't stressed at the same time. This will also depend on your ambient temperature, your case airflow, and how you have the fans on your radiator configured.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> just curious for future expandibility
> is the current loop strong enough to add another GPU block with the GPU OC'd? Or will it require at least another 120mm rad?


A single 120 rad is not going to make much of a difference with dual GPU OC+CPU.
My suggestion is to upgrade your case or mod current one to add a front 240 rad.
Case upgrade would be the Arc Midi R2, 60mm 240 rads in push/pull support on top/front.
Might be able to do 280 up front.


----------



## ez12a

depends on what GPU you use. Both my OCed 670 and 2700k are fine with an additional 120mm. With both fully loaded with prime95 and furmark, I still get great temps. Virtually no change at the CPU (from stock loop), and the GPU is 20C cooler than with the reference cooler.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> just curious for future expandibility
> is the current loop strong enough to add another GPU block with the GPU OC'd? Or will it require at least another 120mm rad?


In my case, I have ambient temperature of around 25, a i7 2700k overclocked to 4600 at 1.38v, an overclocked gtx titan to 1150 clock and 1.185v, H220 pump set at ~2250 rpm, and the two included fans at 1540rpm. I get a cpu idle temp of 30 and gpu of 30. With starcraft 2 hots at 1080p, fully maxed with 16x anisotropic filtering, 8x supersampling, and 16x AA, I get max load temperatues for the cpu at around 64, and gpu at 50.


----------



## mouacyk

I also ordered directly from Swiftech a few days after release, and haven't had any issues whatsoever. And I'm a first time water cooler. My case is the Lian-Li PC-7HX, so I had to mount my fans on the outside, and the fans vibrate a bit but it's tolerable. My Q66000 load temps have dropped 7-9c, and has allowed me to oc from 3.33GHz to 3.52GHz. Pretty happy here.

They also gave me the discount when I asked for it too!


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> In my case, I have ambient temperature of around 25, a i7 2700k overclocked to 4600 at 1.38v, an overclocked gtx titan to 1150 clock and 1.185v, H220 pump set at ~2250 rpm, and the two included fans at 1540rpm. I get a cpu idle temp of 30 and gpu of 30. With starcraft 2 hots at 1080p, fully maxed with 16x anisotropic filtering, 8x supersampling, and 16x AA, I get max load temperatues for the cpu at around 64, and gpu at 50.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The stock unit can handle an added OC'd GPU so long as both the GPU and CPU aren't stressed at the same time. This will also depend on your ambient temperature, your case airflow, and how you have the fans on your radiator configured.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> depends on what GPU you use. Both my OCed 670 and 2700k are fine with an additional 120mm. With both fully loaded with prime95 and furmark, I still get great temps. Virtually no change at the CPU (from stock loop), and the GPU is 20C cooler than with the reference cooler.


Thanks for the info. So to be safe an extra 120mm rad is needed. Sorry for all these noob WC question but would a 7990 block require more 'power' to cool the 2 GPUs compared to a 7970 block? If so, it wouldn't need as much 'power' to cool 2x7970 (2 blocks) because it still has less surface area, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> A single 120 rad is not going to make much of a difference with dual GPU OC+CPU.


No I'm not ever thinking of cooling 2 GPU blocks...this is just for consideration down the road.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Thanks for the info. So to be safe an extra 120mm rad is needed. Sorry for all these noob WC question but would a 7990 block require more 'power' to cool the 2 GPUs compared to a 7970 block? If so, it wouldn't need as much 'power' to cool 2x7970 (2 blocks) because it still has less surface area, right?
> No I'm not ever thinking of cooling 2 GPU blocks...this is just for consideration down the road.


If you want what some people say, you should have around one 120mm radiator for each cpu/gpu being cooled, + an extra 120mm for any overclocking purposes. so a single cpu + gpu should have at least 360mm in total of radiator space, of course this is entirely dependent on alot of factors like radiator thickness and ambient temperatures. some people like to go far and have +~240mm up for overclocking purposes.


----------



## ez12a

oh yeah for a 7990, you'd probably want a spare 240 (or double size rad) at least. I use the rule of thumb of at least one 120mm radiator for each device. The more you can fit the better.


----------



## twitchyzero

my question is regarding Dual GPU cards like 690/7990...it's effectively 2 GPUs on one waterblock...so would one add a 120mm or 240mm onto of their h220 loop? and the h220 pump is strong enough to handle 2x240mm of rad because it's essential the AD2 up to 3krpm?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> my question is regarding Dual GPU cards like 690/7990...it's effectively 2 GPUs on one waterblock...so would one add a 120mm or 240mm onto of their h220 loop? and the h220 pump is strong enough to handle 2x240mm of rad because it's essential the AD2 up to 3krpm?


It is 2xgpu on one PCB. Its the same as SLI/Xfire just takes up less space. Easier for cooling effectiveness 690/7990 is slightly better than 2xGPU.
We didnt see much of a difference, more preference of style.

The H220 pump is strong enough to handle 2x240 rads + cpu
As I see on your system, you have higher OC+overvolt done on your GPU.








Dont know what you did on your CPU.


----------



## witeboy07

I currently have a crossfire 7970 under the h220 & keeps it cool. Highest temp reading on one is 50°c

Sent from my GT-N7105


----------



## nich666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've got an idea that might just fix the issue. I'm sending you a PM right now to see if you're willing to try it.


Hi, Can I jump in with maybe the same issue? I have a massively high CPU tempreture with an H220 installed. I am wondering if the pump is working but meanwhile am stripping the system to replace the TIM this time using a sensible amount on the chip.

The trials and tribulations are laid out here. >

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384769/im-hot#post_19817422

Regards, Brian.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Someone needs to call the MicroCenter HQ and tell those slackers to hurry up!


----------



## Azefore

Ordered all parts except the H220 and Ez12a I'm copying your loop configuration









Edit:

Newegg has the H220 *in-stock* here, just ordered mine ^^ get em while they're hot.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ordered all parts except the H220 and Ez12a I'm copying your loop configuration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Newegg has the H220 *in-stock* here, just ordered mine ^^ get em while they're hot.


Sweet..just ordered. I hope their stock is updated as I purchased.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ordered all parts except the H220 and Ez12a I'm copying your loop configuration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Newegg has the H220 *in-stock* here, just ordered mine ^^ get em while they're hot.












i've been seeing it come in and out of stock on newegg. I wonder if they're receiving more or selling them in batches.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've been seeing it come in and out of stock on newegg. I wonder if they're receiving more or selling them in batches.


I think they must have developed some mechanism for adding stock in small batches. I've noticed with the last 3/4 times I've seen products with high demand go up, newegg gets stock at some really odd times. Titan was the most recent, if you believe their availability they apparently would get shipments in and posted at 1-2am pst.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've been seeing it come in and out of stock on newegg. I wonder if they're receiving more or selling them in batches.


I GOT IT!!!

It blew my mind! I just happened to come back to this thread for no particular reason, and read something about someone ordering something just now that had to do with the H220. I'm not even sure they were talking about the H220 as the part they ordered but I read "Newegg", "Swifttech H220", and immediately switched over to the Newegg site without reading anything else. lol

I typed in "Swiftech H220" and Bam!!, there it was in my cart and it didn't say "out of stock"







I was so excited and afraid that I might not get it to the checkout that I forgot to sign in to the website and into Shoprunner! Then just before I allowed PayPal to go through with the deal, I took a deep breath and told myself to go back there and do this right.









So after waiting almost 3 months, the Swiftech H220 should be here on Thursday under free shipping terms for a total of $139 flat.








Thanks, Rich


----------



## dsmwookie

Just snagged two myself.


----------



## wingclip

They'll be sold out by Thursday at that rate!


----------



## TeeBlack

Congrats Wingclip and Dsmwookie. Hope you enjoy them.


----------



## douglatins

These are amazingly impossible to find


----------



## TeeBlack

last time i looked at Newegg (earlier today) they were still in stock. Could have changed by now.


----------



## Azefore

^ Still in stock, just checked to make sure the 4 purchases here didnt wipe em out


----------



## wingclip

I know that it won't take long to knock sell them out. As I said earlier, I was waiting for three months and I was just about to give up and go for a Thermaltake when one of the folks on this website convince me that it shouldn't be too much longer before they start hitting the stores.

I believe that was sometime yesterday or the day before and if it wasn't for that, right now I'd be working on trying to return the Thermaltake so I can then by the Swiftech. Talk about a near miss!








Rich


----------



## mojojj31

Been running my second pump for the last week and all has been good so far. My first pump had problems with the intermittent shutdowns. It took almost three weeks for the RMA to come in, understandably as the unit is in such high demand. Props to Bryan and their CS team though, great service.



^ Here it is running in a slightly updated configuration.



^ Temps after about 1 hour of Prime95 Small FFTs and Kombustor Stress Test. CPU @ 3.8Ghz (will overclock later). 7950 @ 1000/1575.

I'm concerned that the temps are a little high, the rads get pretty hot to the touch. I think it has more to do with the fans and their orientations. The M160 rad at the bottom concerns me, it's using two Fractal 80mm in a pull config.


----------



## ez12a

Your setup would prove to be pretty warm, since you're cooling a GPU and a CPU with a minor increase in overall radiator surface area from stock (2x 120s, one being slightly more thick, and the small one). Not to mention with a panel on, you have at least 2 radiators pulling already warmed air.

clean looking setup though.

the air from my 240mm + 120mm is pretty warm with everything loaded up. Best if fresh/cool air is fed to them.


----------



## mojojj31

Yea. Contemplating moving to a new case. Waiting to see what the 350D could potentially offer.


----------



## dsmwookie

Mojo, what fans are you using? You could possibly get some more cooling by push/pulling that 180/120s. Could you show an overhead shot of the top? I was curious if you could fit anymore RAD in there.

What direction are the fans blowing as well?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Mojo, what fans are you using? You could possibly get some more cooling by push/pulling that 180/120s. Could you show an overhead shot of the top? I was curious if you could fit anymore RAD in there.
> 
> What direction are the fans blowing as well?


Push/pull not possible too much. The bottom 160 has not enough clearance just for the rad and fans.
The top 120rad only way to do P/P is to go thinner. Even then P/P is not always a big drop in temps.

Bottom/Top is Pull and Middle is Push towards the top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Yea. Contemplating moving to a new case. Waiting to see what the 350D could potentially offer.


The 350D top is a thin 30mm rad with push or pull. Designed to use Corsair H100/H100i. The front is iffy, there looks to be restrictive panels blocking partial rad/fan, which is part of the frame. 240 should be ok, but not knows if the HDD cage is removable yet.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Just received my H220 back from RMA tonight. I just got everything hooked up and it is running great. I had the normal air in the system sound but after tapping the hoses, rotating the unit and letting it run for awhile that all cleared up. I definitely received a refurbished pump. As you can see in the picture that the cover looks like someone either dropped it or tried to epoxy the top back on. No biggie though since it is running smooth as silk thus far.

Thank Bryan. I will try to get my unit sent back to you on Wednesday or Thursday.


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Mojo, what fans are you using? You could possibly get some more cooling by push/pulling that 180/120s. Could you show an overhead shot of the top? I was curious if you could fit anymore RAD in there.
> 
> What direction are the fans blowing as well?




Bottom fans are Fractal 80mms, running pull as intake. Side fan is a Scythe Slim pushing as intake. Top fan is a Cougar Vortex pulling as exhaust.
I'm currently running with the side panel off so that I can admire my handiwork, so exhaust/intake isn't mattering so much at the moment. Not much room for any more rads really.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Push/pull not possible too much. The bottom 160 has not enough clearance just for the rad and fans.
> The top 120rad only way to do P/P is to go thinner. Even then P/P is not always a big drop in temps.
> 
> Bottom/Top is Pull and Middle is Push towards the top.
> The 350D top is a thin 30mm rad with push or pull. Designed to use Corsair H100/H100i. The front is iffy, there looks to be restrictive panels blocking partial rad/fan, which is part of the frame. 240 should be ok, but not knows if the HDD cage is removable yet.


Pretty spot on with the rad analysis. The top rad (EK XTX) has got a fairly low FPI, the Cougar is handling it pretty well. I doubt an extra fan in P/P would do much to temps.

I'm also considering the Arc Mini and TJ08E as alternatives. We'll see how things turn out with the 350D though.


----------



## Diablo85

H220 arrived ~ 9 A.M. this morning at my work! [email protected]#$ why do i have to be stuck at work right now. I wanna go home and install it!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> H220 arrived ~ 9 A.M. this morning at my work! [email protected]#$ why do i have to be stuck at work right now. I wanna go home and install it!


I definitely know that feeling! Just try not to stare at the clock all day...


----------



## Lil-Diabo

Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/

Still need to decide what fans
Noctua's are great but way too costly
The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's

Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lil-Diabo*
> 
> Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
> No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/
> 
> Still need to decide what fans
> Noctua's are great but way too costly
> The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's
> 
> Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
> Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper


Dont go with SPs, since they'll increase the noise of the overall unit. I would go with GTs if you can (but they're not PWM controlled).

Helix fans are decent if it doesnt have too much obstruction other than the radiator, but if you can afford to look at something better go with the better fan.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lil-Diabo*
> 
> Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
> No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/
> 
> Still need to decide what fans
> Noctua's are great but way too costly
> The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's
> 
> Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
> Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper


I don't have push pull, but I picked up an additional MCR-220-QP and use helix on that radiator as well. The static pressure is slightly lower than some fans with higher fin density at lower RPMs but the performance is pretty good and the fans are fairly quiet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've been seeing it come in and out of stock on newegg. I wonder if they're receiving more or selling them in batches.


No, they split them up between their warehouses. They have their main one in California and another in Tennessee.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Just received my H220 back from RMA tonight. I just got everything hooked up and it is running great. I had the normal air in the system sound but after tapping the hoses, rotating the unit and letting it run for awhile that all cleared up. I definitely received a refurbished pump. As you can see in the picture that the cover looks like someone either dropped it or tried to epoxy the top back on. No biggie though since it is running smooth as silk thus far.
> 
> Thank Bryan. I will try to get my unit sent back to you on Wednesday or Thursday.


No, this isn't a refurbished pump. These had to be taken apart when they came into us so that they could be completely cleaned out. We then had to reattach the top and that's why there's new epoxy on it. We wanted to make sure that there would be no further issue and that's why we took these measures.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nich666*
> 
> Hi, Can I jump in with maybe the same issue? I have a massively high CPU tempreture with an H220 installed. I am wondering if the pump is working but meanwhile am stripping the system to replace the TIM this time using a sensible amount on the chip.
> 
> The trials and tribulations are laid out here. >
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384769/im-hot#post_19817422
> 
> Regards, Brian.


Send me a PM if you're still having this issue. I can walk you through the steps to take to make sure that either the pump has failed or there's some debris in your loop that's causing it to not function properly.


----------



## Nightz2k

Yup, kind of sucks I thought I'd get my H220 shipped out of CA so it'd be here quicker, but it's from TN. It won't get here _(Vegas)_ until next Tuesday.









I knew I should have just paid extra for 3-day. lol Everything else I order is usually shipped from their CA location so this is rare for me.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> H220 arrived ~ 9 A.M. this morning at my work! [email protected]#$ why do i have to be stuck at work right now. I wanna go home and install it!
> 
> 
> 
> I definitely know that feeling! Just try not to stare at the clock all day...
Click to expand...

eh. the only way it would get installed tonight anyways is if my 7970 komodo block magically appeared today. its not scheduled to be here until friday so i'm waiting until saturday to install the H220 and video card block. i do, however, get to go home and take out my crossfire 7970's and install a single 7950 and test the crap out of that to make sure its good before putting the water block on it and then posting my 7970's for sale next week if everything turns out well with the 7950 and the water blocks.


----------



## wingclip

Just trying to help, but please read the entire post before getting out your sharpest pens (yes, it's a few paragraphs but the point comes out in the first few sentences):

The following isn't my "idea" it's just the laws of physics and thermal hydraulics:

It's very simple; your goal should be to cool the liquid that is going through the radiator of whatever system you are using, to a temperature as low as possible. That will in turn get your CPU to a temperature as cool as possible which is an 'incidental reaction'. If the temperature you're pushing or pulling through the radiator is 74°F, (about 23°C), you can be sure that the liquid circulating in the radiator will never be lower than that at best, (and can be actually, quite higher depending on how many ounces of water go through the radiator per minute).

So if you're in an air-conditioned room that is about 74°F as mine is you can expect the liquid to get cooled down to about 80° to 85°F, (26 to 29°C). This would translate to your processor getting down to about 90° F at best, (about 32°C). That's about what my processor temp is when at rest, (I have an O/C'd CPU at 4.2 GHz for everyday use and when not 'flight simming' and it never gets higher than 68/69C when running at 5GHz for hours).

So it goes that if you pull the air from an already hot case that may be 39 or 40°C, (104°F), through the radiator, you cannot expect the liquid to be any cooler than that. In fact, if you did that your processor is going to be much warmer than 40°C obviously.

The radiator in the H220, (or any other water cool system of this kind), works just like the radiator in your car. Most new cars these days have a thermostatically controlled engine radiator fan. When the engine starts getting above whatever the engine thermostat is rated at, the engine fan kicks on and "sucks" the cooler air from outside the vehicle through the radiator cooling the liquid inside the radiator. The engine block gets cooler as a result and that's an 'incidental reaction'. NO cars 'push' the hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator and then out to the outside air, none.

But your engine block will never get down to the same temperature as the liquid, (antifreeze in this case), but will certainly get cooler than your engine compartment temp. That's why you should always push or pull cool air through the radiator from the outside of the case environment be it car or computer, (assuming the outside temp is cooler than inside the compartment).

If anyone is certain that they are getting cooler temps when they push the air within their case through the radiator then they have another variable that is affecting their temps and are simply misunderstanding/misinterpreting what those variables are.

Maybe their other fans are fighting each other and causing a very disruptive air flow or maybe your computer is near a window in the room, (as mine is), in which case the heat of the day increases the air temps in that area and you're not running cool enough AC or circulation. But even in that scenario, the temp in the case is likely to be warmer than the air outside of it.

There can be many reasons that are causing that effect but it's impossible for me to know without being there with the computer and checking it myself. There are many places for the air to wind up 'circling' in corners where various components get close to each other. Other places of concern are where you wind up with "dead air", or 'ebbs', (places where the air is just circling or isn't being a moved at all and the temp just starts to build up in those points).

Move your case fans or flip them around to push instead of pull or pull instead of push. I have nine fans in only one 120 mm fan is set up to pull air from the case. I believe I don't have a 'dead air' problem because I have 1 200mm fan mounted on the side pulling air into the case. There's plenty of other places that the warm air in the case can seep out of, (the seams and gaps), and the intake of cool air will create enough pressure to push that warm air out.

But I can guarantee that you will never get cooler temps by pulling the hot air in your case through the radiator if the air outside the case is cooler. It's a physical impossibility, (if the system doesn't have its own, self-contained refrigeration source), no matter how anyone wants to argue it.

I've seen manufacturers who make these radiators actually instruct the buyer to pull the hot air from the case through the radiator! The Corsair H100 I presently have had instructions that correctly stated the way the airflow should go when assembling their product. But I've also seen companies that supposedly "specialize" in hardware cooling state just the opposite, but hey, it's their company. Honestly, I can't imagine what some of these other manufacturers are thinking and if you have any doubts just look at the radiator system in your automobile.

Do you really think that the automobile industry would choose to pull the cool air from outside the engine compartment and then through the radiator when that wasn't the best way to do it? Of course not, because they're not trying to cool the engine block. They're trying to cool the liquid.

I hope that I got through to somebody out there and helped them understand this. I've gone into this before in other websites, (a year ago), and all it did was to bring out the 'keyboard boxers' lol. So I swore I wouldn't post this attempt to help folks realize what they already know but failed to understand. It's really a very simple and basic concept, law, theory and to some, a solution:thumb:.

This is different than trying to cool your components in the case. The fans for the radiator are not meant to be thought of in the same way you use the fans in your cases. Just focus on the temperature of the liquid and everything else will happen the way you wanted.
Rich


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> Just trying to help, but please read the entire post before getting out your sharpest pens (yes, it's a few paragraphs but the point comes out in the first few sentences):
> 
> The following isn't my "idea" it's just the laws of physics and thermal hydraulics:
> 
> It's very simple; your goal should be to cool the liquid that is going through the radiator of whatever system you are using, to a temperature as low as possible. That will in turn get your CPU to a temperature as cool as possible which is an 'incidental reaction'. If the temperature you're pushing or pulling through the radiator is 74°F, (about 23°C), you can be sure that the liquid circulating in the radiator will never be lower than that at best, (and can be actually, quite higher depending on how many ounces of water go through the radiator per minute).
> 
> So if you're in an air-conditioned room that is about 74°F as mine is you can expect the liquid to get cooled down to about 80° to 85°F, (26 to 29°C). This would translate to your processor getting down to about 90° F at best, (about 32°C). That's about what my processor temp is when at rest, (I have an O/C'd CPU at 4.2 GHz for everyday use and when not 'flight simming' and it never gets higher than 68/69C when running at 5GHz for hours).
> 
> So it goes that if you pull the air from an already hot case that may be 39 or 40°C, (104°F), through the radiator, you cannot expect the liquid to be any cooler than that. In fact, if you did that your processor is going to be much warmer than 40°C obviously.
> 
> The radiator in the H220, (or any other water cool system of this kind), works just like the radiator in your car. Most new cars these days have a thermostatically controlled engine radiator fan. When the engine starts getting above whatever the engine thermostat is rated at, the engine fan kicks on and "sucks" the cooler air from outside the vehicle through the radiator cooling the liquid inside the radiator. The engine block gets cooler as a result and that's an 'incidental reaction'. NO cars 'push' the hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator and then out to the outside air, none.
> Rich


I agree with just about everything that you said. I just have one issue though and this is in regards to those, like myself, that have multiple radiators. If I were to set all of my radiators as intakes it would cause the temperature to build up in my case. This has caused me issues with hard drive failures due to overheating. This is why my back and top radiators are set up as exhaust. When I had them as intakes the temperatures were a few degrees cooler on my main components, but my case and hard drive temperatures were terrible. So much so that I experienced hard drive failures. Just my two cents.


----------



## TeeBlack

my h220 is set as exhaust and still get good temps


----------



## ez12a

it really depends on how hot your in case temps are to make any difference between intake/exhaust.

If most or all components inside are water cooled, all of the heat is displaced into the radiator instead of hanging out in the case and being pulled through the radiator. I've since switched from intaking through the rad to exhaust, because with my GPU under water, there's literally nothing inside the case that contributes to a significant increase especially with a 200mm intake pushing fresh cool air in from the front.

Also, I would disagree in regards to Corsair. early when the h50 was released they actually did instruct people to mount them as intakes (on the rear 120mm). People were so up in arms they probably now said to put it as an exhaust.

Original H50 installation manual: http://www.corsair.com/en/media/cms/manual/h50_qsg.pdf

I did a little opinion video on my youtube channel explaining why intaking isnt so bad. As long as the actual component is cooled, it doesnt matter what the in case temps are unless it's ridiculously hot inside (talking ten fold increase over ambient). In case temps matter more for big air coolers than water cooling.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, they split them up between their warehouses. They have their main one in California and another in Tennessee.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Yup, kind of sucks I thought I'd get my H220 shipped out of CA so it'd be here quicker, but it's from TN. It won't get here _(Vegas)_ until next Tuesday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I should have just paid extra for 3-day. lol Everything else I order is usually shipped from their CA location so this is rare for me.


The batch that was sold on Friday was from CA, that is where mine shipped from. You should sign up for a trial of shoprunner on newegg. I signed up almost 2 years ago and canceled my subscription before the trial was up. They gave me my first year free after I canceled and I just got another free year because I declined to pay again, woot for free 2 day shipping. My H220 arrived today but it is in my apartments office and they are closed but should be back soon. I can't wait to see the temps on my i5, hope they are low enough to push 4.8GHz @ 1.5v.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> my h220 is set as exhaust and still get good temps


Yes, I'm certainly not saying that you wouldn't get temps that you're not happy with if you set it up that way.

But the coldest temps possible when it comes to radiators of this kind, is when you focus on cooling the liquid. That, I would argue, is going to result in the cpu/gpu being cooled to the coldest temperature that the radiator by itself, can achieve.

BramSLI; I haven't had any hands on experience with multiple liquid cool systems and I can only say that you would likely know better what to do in a case as yours. I'm assuming that you've run your tests and it is obvious that there are additional variables taking place in your kind of rig.

I saw a screen shot of someone's system, (not too many posts back), that had a very neat looking rig and said there were at least two radiators in it but I wasn't able to tell where they were exactly. Was that yours?
Rich


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> This is different than trying to cool your components in the case. The fans for the radiator are not meant to be thought of in the same way you use the fans in your cases. Just focus on the temperature of the liquid and everything else will happen the way you wanted.
> Rich


Awesome summary, and that's exactly what I've been struggling with while planning my WC build.

*My parts:*
-- Arc Midi R2 Case (**NOTE: there's no opening on the side panel for a fan!**)
-- 2 x 240mm Radiators
-- 4 x 120mm fans as push/pull intakes on each radiator
-- 1 x 120mm fan on each GPU (low RPM, meant to cool VRM and memory heatsinks, but they do stick up above cards a little)
-- 2 x 120mm exhaust fans (Rear-Upper and Bottom)

Given what you explained so eloquently (and what I've been trying to reconcile myself), here's how I'm planning to set it up and move air:

*RED* = Radiators
*BLUE* = 120mm fans
*GREEN ARROWS* = Fan Direction

*My Question/Concern:* Will I have enough exhaust with just the single 120mm Rear-Upper and 120mm Bottom fans? Is there a better (read: "cooler") way to set this up?


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it really depends on how hot your in case temps are to make any difference between intake/exhaust.
> 
> If most or all components inside are water cooled, all of the heat is displaced into the radiator instead of hanging out in the case and being pulled through the radiator. I've since switched from intaking through the rad to exhaust, because with my GPU under water, there's literally nothing inside the case that contributes to a significant increase especially with a 200mm intake pushing fresh cool air in from the front.
> 
> Also, I would disagree in regards to Corsair. early when the h50 was released they actually did instruct people to mount them as intakes (on the rear 120mm). People were so up in arms they probably now said to put it as an exhaust.
> 
> Original H50 installation manual: http://www.corsair.com/en/media/cms/manual/h50_qsg.pdf
> 
> I did a little opinion video on my youtube channel explaining why intaking isnt so bad. As long as the actual component is cooled, it doesn't matter what the in case temps are unless it's ridiculously hot inside (talking ten fold increase over ambient). In case temps matter more for big air coolers than water cooling.


I also had/have the H50 and saw that too. But the H100's paperwork stated just the opposite. Either way, my point still stands. With no doubt whatsoever in regards to a standard, dingle radiator system, you can argue until the cows come home but you're not going to change the laws of physics or thermal hydraulic engineering.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> BramSLI; I haven't had any hands on experience with multiple liquid cool systems and I can only say that you would likely know better what to do in a case as yours. I'm assuming that you've run your tests and it is obvious that there are additional variables taking place in your kind of rig.
> 
> I saw a screen shot of someone's system, (not too many posts back), that had a very neat looking rig and said there were at least two radiators in it but I wasn't able to tell where they were exactly. Was that yours?
> Rich


No, that wasn't mine. You can see mine in my sig at the bottom.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Awesome summary, and that's exactly what I've been struggling with while planning my WC build.
> 
> My parts:
> -- Arc Midi R2 Case (**NOTE: there's no opening on the side panel for a fan!**)
> -- 2 x 240mm Radiators
> -- 4 x 120mm fans in push/pull on both radiators
> -- 1 x 120mm fan on each GPU (low RPM, meant to cool VRM and memory heatsinks)
> 
> Given what you explained so eloquently (and what I've been trying to reconcile myself), here's how I'm planning to set it up and move air:
> 
> *RED* = Radiators
> *BLUE* = 120mm fans
> *GREEN ARROWS* = Fan Direction
> 
> *My Question/Concern:* Will I have enough exhaust with just the single 120mm Rear-Upper and 120mm Bottom fans?


That's almost identical to mine. You should get very good results. I also have a 200mm pulling in from the left side:thumb:.
Rich


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Awesome summary, and that's exactly what I've been struggling with while planning my WC build.
> 
> *My parts:*
> -- Arc Midi R2 Case (**NOTE: there's no opening on the side panel for a fan!**)
> -- 2 x 240mm Radiators
> -- 4 x 120mm fans as push/pull intakes on each radiator
> -- 1 x 120mm fan on each GPU (low RPM, meant to cool VRM and memory heatsinks, but they do stick up above cards a little)
> -- 2 x 120mm exhaust fans (Rear-Upper and Bottom)
> 
> Given what you explained so eloquently (and what I've been trying to reconcile myself), here's how I'm planning to set it up and move air:
> 
> *RED* = Radiators
> *BLUE* = 120mm fans
> *GREEN ARROWS* = Fan Direction
> 
> *My Question/Concern:* Will I have enough exhaust with just the single 120mm Rear-Upper and 120mm Bottom fans? Is there a better (read: "cooler") way to set this up?


Seems like you'd end up with a bunch of hotspots in the case, particularly in the top front area. Hot air naturally rises, so you want to use that to your advantage. Switch the 120mm bottom fan to intake, and switch the top rad fans to exhaust. I think you'd end up with a much cooler case, and thus lower RAM, Mobo, and HDD temps.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Seems like you'd end up with a bunch of hotspots in the case, particularly in the top front area. Hot air naturally rises, so you want to use that to your advantage. Switch the 120mm bottom fan to intake, and switch the top rad fans to exhaust. I think you'd end up with a much cooler case, and thus lower RAM, Mobo, and HDD temps.


But he will have warmer liquid temps if he follows your suggestion.
Also, you can't take thermodynamics into account when using lots of fans. Hot air does not have time to raise.

And to help with the debate of intake vs outtake, I dropped by 8c on average with intake. But GPU increased by 3c which shows warmer in case temps, but no hot spots as all the air was moving around.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just trying to help, but please read the entire post before getting out your sharpest pens (yes, it's a few paragraphs but the point comes out in the first few sentences):
> 
> The following isn't my "idea" it's just the laws of physics and thermal hydraulics:
> 
> It's very simple; your goal should be to cool the liquid that is going through the radiator of whatever system you are using, to a temperature as low as possible. That will in turn get your CPU to a temperature as cool as possible which is an 'incidental reaction'. If the temperature you're pushing or pulling through the radiator is 74°F, (about 23°C), you can be sure that the liquid circulating in the radiator will never be lower than that at best, (and can be actually, quite higher depending on how many ounces of water go through the radiator per minute).
> 
> So if you're in an air-conditioned room that is about 74°F as mine is you can expect the liquid to get cooled down to about 80° to 85°F, (26 to 29°C). This would translate to your processor getting down to about 90° F at best, (about 32°C). That's about what my processor temp is when at rest, (I have an O/C'd CPU at 4.2 GHz for everyday use and when not 'flight simming' and it never gets higher than 68/69C when running at 5GHz for hours).
> 
> So it goes that if you pull the air from an already hot case that may be 39 or 40°C, (104°F), through the radiator, you cannot expect the liquid to be any cooler than that. In fact, if you did that your processor is going to be much warmer than 40°C obviously.
> 
> The radiator in the H220, (or any other water cool system of this kind), works just like the radiator in your car. Most new cars these days have a thermostatically controlled engine radiator fan. When the engine starts getting above whatever the engine thermostat is rated at, the engine fan kicks on and "sucks" the cooler air from outside the vehicle through the radiator cooling the liquid inside the radiator. The engine block gets cooler as a result and that's an 'incidental reaction'. NO cars 'push' the hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator and then out to the outside air, none.
> 
> But your engine block will never get down to the same temperature as the liquid, (antifreeze in this case), but will certainly get cooler than your engine compartment temp. That's why you should always push or pull cool air through the radiator from the outside of the case environment be it car or computer, (assuming the outside temp is cooler than inside the compartment).
> 
> If anyone is certain that they are getting cooler temps when they push the air within their case through the radiator then they have another variable that is affecting their temps and are simply misunderstanding/misinterpreting what those variables are.
> 
> Maybe their other fans are fighting each other and causing a very disruptive air flow or maybe your computer is near a window in the room, (as mine is), in which case the heat of the day increases the air temps in that area and you're not running cool enough AC or circulation. But even in that scenario, the temp in the case is likely to be warmer than the air outside of it.
> 
> There can be many reasons that are causing that effect but it's impossible for me to know without being there with the computer and checking it myself. There are many places for the air to wind up 'circling' in corners where various components get close to each other. Other places of concern are where you wind up with "dead air", or 'ebbs', (places where the air is just circling or isn't being a moved at all and the temp just starts to build up in those points).
> 
> Move your case fans or flip them around to push instead of pull or pull instead of push. I have nine fans in only one 120 mm fan is set up to pull air from the case. I believe I don't have a 'dead air' problem because I have 1 200mm fan mounted on the side pulling air into the case. There's plenty of other places that the warm air in the case can seep out of, (the seams and gaps), and the intake of cool air will create enough pressure to push that warm air out.
> 
> But I can guarantee that you will never get cooler temps by pulling the hot air in your case through the radiator if the air outside the case is cooler. It's a physical impossibility, (if the system doesn't have its own, self-contained refrigeration source), no matter how anyone wants to argue it.
> 
> I've seen manufacturers who make these radiators actually instruct the buyer to pull the hot air from the case through the radiator! The Corsair H100 I presently have had instructions that correctly stated the way the airflow should go when assembling their product. But I've also seen companies that supposedly "specialize" in hardware cooling state just the opposite, but hey, it's their company. Honestly, I can't imagine what some of these other manufacturers are thinking and if you have any doubts just look at the radiator system in your automobile.
> 
> Do you really think that the automobile industry would choose to pull the cool air from outside the engine compartment and then through the radiator when that wasn't the best way to do it? Of course not, because they're not trying to cool the engine block. They're trying to cool the liquid.
> 
> I hope that I got through to somebody out there and helped them understand this. I've gone into this before in other websites, (a year ago), and all it did was to bring out the 'keyboard boxers' lol. So I swore I wouldn't post this attempt to help folks realize what they already know but failed to understand. It's really a very simple and basic concept, law, theory and to some, a solution:thumb:.
> 
> This is different than trying to cool your components in the case. The fans for the radiator are not meant to be thought of in the same way you use the fans in your cases. Just focus on the temperature of the liquid and everything else will happen the way you wanted.
> Rich


a _*few*_ words? Mostly you are correct, people who care about case temps are often people who are still thinking air cooling before switching over to water cooling. Cooling the loop is the most important thing, after that, decent airflow in the case with at least 1 good exhaust, and you won't have any problems with heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Seems like you'd end up with a bunch of hotspots in the case, particularly in the top front area. Hot air naturally rises, so you want to use that to your advantage. Switch the 120mm bottom fan to intake, and switch the top rad fans to exhaust. I think you'd end up with a much cooler case, and thus lower RAM, Mobo, and HDD temps.


It honestly doesn't matter, if you're putting everything on the loop, the small amounts of heat that will stick in the case should be within operating temps of any device you include in your case.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Seems like you'd end up with a bunch of hotspots in the case, particularly in the top front area. Hot air naturally rises, so you want to use that to your advantage. Switch the 120mm bottom fan to intake, and switch the top rad fans to exhaust. I think you'd end up with a much cooler case, and thus lower RAM, Mobo, and HDD temps.


There again is where many people forget or misunderstand the design goal of the radiator. The radiator's goal is to cool the liquid. If you try to give the radiator two jobs; i.e. cool the liquid and remove hot air from the case, you'll only get less effectiveness in both applications rather than applying 100% of the effectiveness to cooling the liquid in the first place.

Just try it, (the cool air IN through the radiator from outside the radiator), but make sure that your other fans don't lock the airflow up in an important corner somewhere, (adjust as needed). You'll see what the difference is and that'll be based on your outside ambient temp which will almost undoubtedly be cooler than the inside of that case.

Remember, just like "darkness is the absence of light", "cold is the absence of heat". You're not trying to cool off the CPU with the radiator fans, you're trying to cool off the liquid, the CPU temp will follow as an incidental result.

I've got to get back to work, I'm not even supposed to be here
Rich


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> a _*few*_ words? Mostly you are correct, people who care about case temps are often people who are still thinking air cooling before switching over to water cooling. Cooling the loop is the most important thing, after that, decent airflow in the case with at least 1 good exhaust, and you won't have any problems with heat.
> It honestly doesn't matter, if you're putting everything on the loop, the small amounts of heat that will stick in the case should be within operating temps of any device you include in your case.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> The batch that was sold on Friday was from CA, that is where mine shipped from. You should sign up for a trial of shoprunner on newegg. I signed up almost 2 years ago and canceled my subscription before the trial was up. They gave me my first year free after I canceled and I just got another free year because I declined to pay again, woot for free 2 day shipping. My H220 arrived today but it is in my apartments office and they are closed but should be back soon. I can't wait to see the temps on my i5, hope they are low enough to push 4.8GHz @ 1.5v.


I'll look into that, thanks for the info. Bit late for my incoming H220 though, but I'll keep that in mind for next time.


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> The batch that was sold on Friday was from CA, that is where mine shipped from. You should sign up for a trial of shoprunner on newegg. I signed up almost 2 years ago and canceled my subscription before the trial was up. They gave me my first year free after I canceled and I just got another free year because I declined to pay again, woot for free 2 day shipping. My H220 arrived today but it is in my apartments office and they are closed but should be back soon. I can't wait to see the temps on my i5, hope they are low enough to push 4.8GHz @ 1.5v.


SO True!
I had/have Shoprunner and because they aren't accepted in the places I buy from most of the time, I've decided not to renew. Unlike Amazon Prime, Shoprunner just doesn't cover enough stores or departments. But my subscription is still not ended, (not sure when it does), and I took advantage of the free shipping for that H220 that should be here tomorrow!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Seems like you'd end up with a bunch of hotspots in the case, particularly in the top front area. Hot air naturally rises, so you want to use that to your advantage. Switch the 120mm bottom fan to intake, and switch the top rad fans to exhaust. I think you'd end up with a much cooler case, and thus lower RAM, Mobo, and HDD temps.


Thanks for the feedback! My guess is that I'll have to try it with both setups. The hardest part will be moving the fans around on the rad, so it shouldn't be overly difficult.

I'll be kind enough to post the results here once I'm done. If I can ever find an H220 in stock, that is. (and yes, I missed yesterday's inventory, as well... DOH!)


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! My guess is that I'll have to try it with both setups. The hardest part will be moving the fans around on the rad, so it shouldn't be overly difficult.
> 
> I'll be kind enough to post the results here once I'm done. If I can ever find an H220 in stock, that is. (and yes, I missed yesterday's inventory, as well... DOH!)


Looks like its your lucky second wind man









*In-Stock* here at Newegg again today, I'll keep checking for everyone


----------



## TeeBlack

i say just do what makes you happy


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! My guess is that I'll have to try it with both setups. The hardest part will be moving the fans around on the rad, so it shouldn't be overly difficult.
> 
> I'll be kind enough to post the results here once I'm done. If I can ever find an H220 in stock, that is. (and yes, I missed yesterday's inventory, as well... DOH!)
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like its your lucky second wind man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *In-Stock* here at Newegg again today, I'll keep checking for everyone
Click to expand...

Got it, THANK YOU!









2-day shoprunner shipping for the w1n!


----------



## Rabid1

inside the case temps wont effect mounting with a radbox and I really like the radiator outside the case. room temp is 72 f and my cpu temp is 24c or 75f


----------



## Skullwipe

Just picked up one on Newegg, so they're still available as of right now.


----------



## TeeBlack

im wondering if i should add a mcr320 qp and a mcres micro rev 2. then i can throw the mcr320 up top h220 at the bottom or front.


----------



## mastahg

Just gone done installing my h220. The one I got included a missing screw receiver on the backplate so I used my h60 backplate instead. Still, this installation was harder then any of the corsair units I have used since they make it much easier by screwing MM screws into the backplate and let you tighten down thumb screws onto them so you don't have to hold the backplate in place.


----------



## mastahg

Also I purchased one of these, cut the cables for the case fans and hooked it up to the pump so that I could control the pump seperate from the fans while insuring that pump would get the full 12V that it needs for proper operation.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248


----------



## wingclip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rabid1*
> 
> inside the case temps wont effect mounting with a radbox and I really like the radiator outside the case. room temp is 72 f and my cpu temp is 24c or 75f


Not sure what your point is there. Placing the radiator outside the case will only help the liquid get cooled.

So if I didn't mind having my radiator on the outside of the case, I'd probably do that too... Like I said, I'm not sure of the point of your statement but, glad it's working for you.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

First off I would like to apologize. I have never done anything like this before and I made the mistake of forgetting to add screenshots with Prime95 running in the background. If your anything like me all you want to see is a pictures and some graphs.

The tested hardware using Prime95 Small FFT's for 30mins. I am using RealTemp for CPU readings before and after test. Idle temp readings will be taken 5mins before Prime95 Small FFT's is started.

Fractal Design Arc Midi 2
Case Fans Noctua NF-F12 5x(Two Intake, Three Exhaust)
All fans controlled in bios by Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter unless other wise stated (CPU - Standard Setting In Bios)

I used Swiftechs HydrX PM 2 Coolant for all my tests found here,

http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM2coolant.aspx

Thermal Compound AS5 using the "Tiny Dot" method also known as " Grain of Rice" for my application found here at Hardware Secrets

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease/1303

Asus P8P67 Bios 3602
i5-2500K (Lapped) @ 4,700GHz (Offset Voltage v0.030)
Corsair Vengeance 1600C7R v5.11 Hynix BFR @ 1866 9,10,8,27 1T v1.6
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB
Gigabyte GTX 670 2GB (Stock)
SeaSonic X750 Gold 750W PSU
Windows 8 Pro

Test 1: Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 Rev. B (Lapped)(Push)
All 5x Noctua NF-F12 case fans using the Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter plugged into CPU Header controlled by the bios using CPU Standard Setting.
Room Temp: 64.2°F
Idle Temp: 28°C, 23°C, 27°C, 24°C
Load Temp: 69°C, 73°C, 76°C, 74°C

Test 2: Swiftech H220 (Pull, Exhaust out the top of the case)
All 5x Noctua NF-F12 case fans using the Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. Swiftech H220 pump plugged into channel one on the splitter controlled by the bios using CPU Standard Setting.
Room Temp: 63.1°F
Idle Temp: 18°C, 15°C, 21°C, 17°C
Load Temp: 68°C, 70°C, 73°C, 72°C

Test 3: Swiftech H220 (Pull, Exhaust out the top of the case)
All 5x Noctua NF-F12 case fans using the Noctua L.N.A. and Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. Swiftech H220 pump plugged into CPU Header controlled by the bios using CPU Standard Setting.
Room Temp: 62.8°F
Idle Temp: 21°C, 17°C, 21°C, 18°C
Load Temp: 63°C, 65°C, 67°C, 67°C

Now for the only results most people care about. How much will my temps drop by adding an extra radiator to my loop? For my results keep on reading.

Test 4: Swiftech H220 (Pull, Exhaust out the top of the case) and Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm (Pull, Intake front of the case)
All 5x Noctua NF-F12 case fans using the Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. Swiftech H220 pump plugged into channel one on the splitter controlled by the bios using CPU Standard Setting.
Room Temp: 64.4°F
Idle Temp: 21°C, 17°C, 22°C, 18°C
Load Temp: 67°C, 70°C, 71°C, 69°C

Test 5: Swiftech H220 (Pull, Exhaust out the top of the case) and Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm (Pull, Intake front of the case)
All 5x Noctua NF-F12 case fans using the Noctua L.N.A. and Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. Swiftech H220 pump plugged into CPU Header controlled by the bios using CPU Standard Setting.
Room Temp: 63.9°F
Idle Temp: 20°C, 16°C, 21°C, 17°C
Load Temp: 63°C, 65°C, 65°C, 65°C

Using options one, two and four you can not even tell the computer is even on, it is that quiet. Then with test results three and five you can see there is little to no gain adding the extra radiator for cooling just your CPU. Looks like I better order that Heatkiller GPU block or I just through a bunch of money away. These are my results from the average Joe whose St overclock was done using the #2 pencil mod on a AMD T-Bird. I did this just to see what I would gain from each method tested. Your results may vary and I hope this will answer some questions for someone else in the future. I am sure that I made some mistakes and will learn from them in the future.


----------



## MrLinky

Just wanted to poke my head in to say that H220s are still in stock at the Egg. Because I ordered with ShopRunner it should arrive the same day as my new FX 8350, yay!


----------



## Diablo85

alright, i gotta ask. is there some trick to fitting correct sized tubing over the swiftech lok-seal compression fittings?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> alright, i gotta ask. is there some trick to fitting correct sized tubing over the swiftech lok-seal compression fittings?


If you have the 3/8 5/8 tubing, what I did to help get it on a little easier was dip the tubing in hot water for about 30 seconds. Then it is just a matter of putting direct pressure onto the tubing and it will give


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> alright, i gotta ask. is there some trick to fitting correct sized tubing over the swiftech lok-seal compression fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the 3/8 5/8 tubing, what I did to help get it on a little easier was dip the tubing in hot water for about 30 seconds. Then it is just a matter of putting direct pressure onto the tubing and it will give
Click to expand...

like boiling hot or just "hot" tap water? and yes, i do have 3/8" 5/8" primochill advanced LRT clear tubing and 3/8" 5/8" lok-seal compression fittings.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

I should have added this to my original post but here it is.

No I did not let the AS5 cure for 200 hrs cause that would take almost year of normal use to get the test results. Look at it this way. Take your AS5 and do not factor in the cure time and you have a average thermal compound. The important thing is the prep and steps taken in my testing. I could have use any TIM for the test but all have ATM is AS5. But if you do not have to reset your heat sink for over a year your temps will just get better over time. It is a win. I do not see why I would have to redo all the tests though. Since I did clean and prep the CPU/heat sink with a fresh application of AS5 before each test. If all it is going to save is 2°C - 5°C over a years time. Which is really nice if you have already waited a year for the AS5 cure time.

As you can see here at Benchmark Reviews "So by my estimation of this statement it would take almost a year of normal use to properly cure the AS5 compound, or almost nine days of continuous power cycles to meet their recommendation."

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> like boiling hot or just "hot" tap water? and yes, i do have 3/8" 5/8" primochill advanced LRT clear tubing and 3/8" 5/8" lok-seal compression fittings.


I posted a few times about that in here. The Swiftech Lok-seal fittings are not really compatible with that Primochill tubing, I found out the hard way. It is not that hard to get the tubing on the barb, but being able to screw down the collet was another story.

You can make it work if you really want to, but you will have to force it. I wouldn't do it while the fitting is in the block though because it can strip the fitting. I switched to the matching black tubing from Swiftech, others here switched to some XSPC tubing.


----------



## Phishy714

my RMA'ed pump stopped working.. sigh..

I am seriously beginning to lose hope in this system..


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> like boiling hot or just "hot" tap water? and yes, i do have 3/8" 5/8" primochill advanced LRT clear tubing and 3/8" 5/8" lok-seal compression fittings.


XSPC tubing works great if you want some that fits without any tricks. 'tis what I and a few others have.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> like boiling hot or just "hot" tap water? and yes, i do have 3/8" 5/8" primochill advanced LRT clear tubing and 3/8" 5/8" lok-seal compression fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> I posted a few times about that in here. The Swiftech Lok-seal fittings are not really compatible with that Primochill tubing, I found out the hard way. It is not that hard to get the tubing on the barb, but being able to screw down the collet was another story.
> 
> You can make it work if you really want to, but you will have to force it. I wouldn't do it while the fitting is in the block though because it can strip the fitting. I switched to the matching black tubing from Swiftech, others here switched to some XSPC tubing.
Click to expand...

well thats just freakin peachy. in other words, i'll have to wait until next week to watercool the video card then unless i pay for overnight shipping. -______-

edit: is there ANY other type of compression fitting that is known to not work with this primochill tubing?


----------



## mojojj31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wingclip*
> 
> There again is where many people forget or misunderstand the design goal of the radiator. The radiator's goal is to cool the liquid. If you try to give the radiator two jobs; i.e. cool the liquid and remove hot air from the case, you'll only get less effectiveness in both applications rather than applying 100% of the effectiveness to cooling the liquid in the first place.
> 
> Just try it, (the cool air IN through the radiator from outside the radiator), but make sure that your other fans don't lock the airflow up in an important corner somewhere, (adjust as needed). You'll see what the difference is and that'll be based on your outside ambient temp which will almost undoubtedly be cooler than the inside of that case.
> 
> Remember, just like "darkness is the absence of light", "cold is the absence of heat". You're not trying to cool off the CPU with the radiator fans, you're trying to cool off the liquid, the CPU temp will follow as an incidental result.
> 
> I've got to get back to work, I'm not even supposed to be here
> Rich


Look, no one is disputing that all intake will result in cooler temps. I'm stating that there may not be enough fans in exhaust to expunge hot air from the case adequately enough. Especially so if your ambient room temperature is high enough. Alas, it's personal preference, I would rather my case internal temperature remain low as well and would be willing to sacrifice a few degrees to achieve that.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I posted a few times about that in here. The Swiftech Lok-seal fittings are not really compatible with that Primochill tubing, I found out the hard way. It is not that hard to get the tubing on the barb, but being able to screw down the collet was another story.
> 
> You can make it work if you really want to, but you will have to force it. I wouldn't do it while the fitting is in the block though because it can strip the fitting. I switched to the matching black tubing from Swiftech, others here switched to some XSPC tubing.


Still kills me that the 5/8 OD tubing is actually closer to 3/4". How do they fail that, I mean really.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojojj31*
> 
> Look, no one is disputing that all intake will result in cooler temps. I'm stating that there may not be enough fans in exhaust to expunge hot air from the case adequately enough. Especially so if your ambient room temperature is high enough. Alas, it's personal preference, I would rather my case internal temperature remain low as well and would be willing to sacrifice a few degrees to achieve that.


One is usually sufficient, unless you have very bad airflow, with physical barriers creating dead air zones. All fans essentially point airflow into the center, and one fan pulls air from the center and pushes it out of the case.


----------



## Chris-on-E

Noob questions. When reading core temps, which ones do you guys particularly pay attention to, 0, 1, 2, 3 or package? I see people here posting temps but not sure which cpu temp they refer too. Also, how long after water cooler installation do you see maximum results of decrease temps? I've heard in some places you have to run it for 24hrs first.
30 min after installing h220 i have average temps of (i5 3570k):

core 0 =28
core 1 =19
core 2 =21
core 3 =29
package =28

Thanks guys!


----------



## Diablo85

well now that i've got tubing (xspc) and more compression fittings (bitspower ultimate) on order to be overnighted from frozencpu, my installation should of the H220 should be able to commence on saturday. had to order new fittings because i nicked the edge of the lok-seal fitting i attempted to fit the tubing onto earlier.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris-on-E*
> 
> Noob questions. When reading core temps, which ones do you guys particularly pay attention to, 0, 1, 2, 3 or package? I see people here posting temps but not sure which cpu temp they refer too. Also, how long after water cooler installation do you see maximum results of decrease temps? I've heard in some places you have to run it for 24hrs first.
> 30 min after installing h220 i have average temps of (i5 3570k):
> 
> core 0 =28
> core 1 =19
> core 2 =21
> core 3 =29
> package =28
> 
> Thanks guys!


Idle temps on a lot of chips are not very accurate. When people talk about a single temp they should be talking about the max temp of their hottest core under load. People should refer to what load the cpu is under though since gaming temps will be one thing, Prime95 can be about 20c hotter than that, and IBT temps tend to be even a little hotter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> well now that i've got tubing (xspc) and more compression fittings (bitspower ultimate) on order to be overnighted from frozencpu, my installation should of the H220 should be able to commence on saturday. had to order new fittings because i nicked the edge of the lok-seal fitting i attempted to fit the tubing onto earlier.


Yeah, I had to force the Swiftech fittings on the Primochill tubing and it definitely scratched them up. I got new fittings and the Swiftech tubing so it will be much easier when I put it together this time. Let us know what you think of the new fittings, I would be interested in your comparison of the two.


----------



## Diablo85

i suppose i could try the primochill tubing on the new fittings to see how well it fits if at all. if its as large a hassle as it was tonight, im not going to risk nicking the fittings again.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus


----------



## Thaid

By nicking you mean you scratched the paint right? The only fittings and tubing available for me are the lok-seals and the primochill tubing.. go Canada!..

On a different note, I ordered an H220 from Newegg Canada! Didn't expect them to carry it. Very excited now!


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> By nicking you mean you scratched the paint right? The only fittings and tubing available for me are the lok-seals and the primochill tubing.. go Canada!..


No, i mean that there is a small gash in the tip of the fitting now because the tubing was a pita to get on, and even worse to try and get off of the lok seal fitting. i had to cut down the tubing length-wise to remove it and it left the gash on the fitting.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus


----------



## paleh0rse14

*OPTION 1 vs. OPTION 2*

OK, I'm trying to decide between two setups. Which of these do you think will provide me with the best (coolest) results?

(NOTE: I already have all the parts for OPTION 1; however, they're unopened, so I still have time to sell or return them).
(NOTE 2: I don't really care about appearance)

*OPTION 1*
1 x H220 Kit for CPU
2 x Zalman LQ-320 (each with 120mm rad) = Red Mods for 2 x GPU
2 x Dwood Fan Bracket (120mm Fans)

*OPTION 2*
1 x H220 Kit
2 x MCW82 Universal GPU Waterblock
1 x Swiftech SLI/CrossFire Bridge
1 x MCRx20-QP Radiator (Dual 120mm)
1 x XSPC Tubing
? x Fittings, clamps, barbs (No clue what I'd need)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> *OPTION 1 vs. OPTION 2*
> 
> OK, I'm trying to decide between two setups. Which of these do you think will provide me with the best (coolest) results?
> 
> (NOTE: I already have all the parts for OPTION 1; however, they're unopened, so I still have time to sell or return them).
> (NOTE 2: I don't really care about appearance)
> 
> *OPTION 1*
> 1 x H220 Kit for CPU
> 2 x Zalman LQ-320 (each with 120mm rad) = Red Mods for 2 x GPU
> 2 x Dwood Fan Bracket (120mm Fans)
> 
> *OPTION 2*
> 1 x H220 Kit
> 2 x MCW82 Universal GPU Waterblock
> 1 x Swiftech SLI/CrossFire Bridge
> 1 x MCRx20-QP Radiator (Dual 120mm)
> 1 x XSPC Tubing
> ? x Fittings, clamps, barbs (No clue what I'd need)


For option 2 you'll need 6 additional fittings for the SLI/CrossFire Bridge and you'll need 2 more fittings for the second radiator. I would recommend barb fittings for the Bridge and compression for the radiator, but it's up to you. Just make sure that two of them are 3/8 x 5/8 size and the other four need to be 1/2 x 3/4 and you should be good to go. Our MCW82 Universal water blocks come with 1/2 x 3/4 barbs and that's why four of the barbs being put on the bridge need to also be 1/2 x 3/4. This will also mean that you'll need to purchase some 1/2 x 3/4 tubing to connect the cards to the blocks. I'm just saying this in order to save you from having to purchase replacement 3/8 x 5/8 barbs for the MCW82s. If you'd prefer to go that route you're more than welcome to do so.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For option 2 you'll need 6 additional fittings for the SLI/CrossFire Bridge and you'll need 2 more fittings for the second radiator. I would recommend barb fittings for the Bridge and compression for the radiator, but it's up to you. Just make sure that two of them are 3/8 x 5/8 size and the other four need to be 1/2 x 3/4 and you should be good to go. Our MCW82 Universal water blocks come with 1/2 x 3/4 barbs and that's why four of the barbs being put on the bridge need to also be 1/2 x 3/4. This will also mean that you'll need to purchase some 1/2 x 3/4 tubing to connect the cards to the blocks. I'm just saying this in order to save you from having to purchase replacement 3/8 x 5/8 barbs for the MCW82s. If you'd prefer to go that route you're more than welcome to do so.


I think I understand you. If I wish to go with all 3/8 ID tubing, I would need:

*(2) MCW82 waterblock
(1) MCRx20-QP Dual-120mm Radiator
(1) SLI/CrossFire Bridge*
*(8) 3/8 x 5/8 Barbs* = (4) for SLI Bridge, (4) for Waterblocks
*(4) 3/8 x 5/8 Lok-Seal Compression Fittings* = (2) for Front Rad, (2) for top and bottom ends of SLI Bridge
*(2) 45° Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapter* = (1) for Front Rad, (1) for bottom of SLI Bridge
*(2) HydrX PM Coolant*
*(1) 3/8 ID XSPC Clear Tubing*

*Questions:*
*1.* Are there any other clamps or parts needed?

*2.* Could I use your adjustable G¼ Male-Male Lok-Seal™ SLI & CrossFireX connectors -- instead of 1/2 ID tubing and 1/2 ID barbs -- to connect SLI Bridge to the Waterblocks? If so, what length connector is required between the blocks and bridge?

*3.* Regarding the additional Dual-120mm Rad: should I get it with, or without, an integrated reservoir?


----------



## witeboy07

I think this product has become very popular to the fact that it makes us newbs, welcomed to water-cooling and getting familiar for future projects! Great job Swiftech, great business and great customer service!


----------



## dsmwookie

Palehorse,

Have you considered this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36176:25547e281ffd0272639dd79c54c9ae0f

and

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36179:8a8b1e8ea58f596234c15fd7c85f876e

Universal GPU block while able to actively cool your VRMs.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Palehorse,
> 
> Have you considered this:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36176:25547e281ffd0272639dd79c54c9ae0f
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36179:8a8b1e8ea58f596234c15fd7c85f876e
> 
> Universal GPU block while able to actively cool your VRMs.


I have, but that's how the budget ends up doubling... maybe someday.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I think I understand you. If I wish to go with all 3/8 ID tubing, I would need:
> 
> *(2) MCW82 waterblock
> (1) MCRx20-QP Dual-120mm Radiator
> (1) SLI/CrossFire Bridge*
> *(8) 3/8 x 5/8 Barbs* = (4) for SLI Bridge, (4) for Waterblocks
> *(4) 3/8 x 5/8 Lok-Seal Compression Fittings* = (2) for Front Rad, (2) for top and bottom ends of SLI Bridge
> *(2) 45° Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapter* = (1) for Front Rad, (1) for bottom of SLI Bridge
> *(2) HydrX PM Coolant*
> *(1) 3/8 ID XSPC UV Green Tubing*
> 
> *Questions:*
> *1.* Are there any other clamps or parts needed?
> 
> *2.* Could I use your adjustable G¼ Male-Male Lok-Seal™ SLI & CrossFireX connectors -- instead of 1/2 ID tubing and 1/2 ID barbs -- to connect SLI Bridge to the Waterblocks? If so, what length connector is required between the blocks and bridge?
> 
> *3.* Regarding the additional Dual-120mm Rad: should I get it with, or without, an integrated reservoir?


You should use clamps for all of your barb fittings. Our adjustable G1/4 connectors can't be used in conjunction with these MCW82 water blocks. This is due to the way the ports aren't coming out of the top and bottom, but from the side of the card. I think you'll realize what I mean when you look at a full-cover water block. You won't need another integrated reservoir because the radiator that comes with the H220 already has one. Adding a micro res though isn't a bad idea because this will give you a visual means of checking your coolant level.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our adjustable G1/4 connectors can't be used in conjunction with these MCW82 water blocks. This is due to the way the ports aren't coming out of the top and bottom, but from the side of the card. I think you'll realize what I mean when you look at a full-cover water block.


Your own website shows that it can be used as I was asking: (I just found this)


Taken from this page here:
http://www.swiftech.com/G1-4-MM-LONG-connector.aspx

Along with this description:
*"Connecting the SLI/CrossFire bridge to the MCW82 waterblock"*

So now I'm confused... it looks to me like using (4) of these would eliminate the need for 8 barbs, 8 clamps, and extra hose. These adjustable connectors seem like a much more elegant, secure, and simple solution than all those other parts.

Perhaps you just misunderstood my question?


----------



## Scorpion667

Can I use an RX360 and an RX240 in my Switch 810 provided I use a bay res which is higher than the H220 pump? I have so much room in this 810, wanna start using some thick rads and grab a GPU block also.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Your own website shows that it can be used as I was asking: (I just found this)
> 
> 
> Taken from this page here:
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1-4-MM-LONG-connector.aspx
> 
> Along with this description:
> *"Connecting the SLI/CrossFire bridge to the MCW82 waterblock"*
> 
> So now I'm confused...


Sorry about that. What I meant was that you couldn't use these adjustable fittings to connect the cards the same way that you can with the Bridge. I'm sorry for confusing you, and yes, you can use these adjustable fittings instead of using barbs.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Can I use an RX360 and an RX240 in my Switch 810 provided I use a bay res which is higher than the H220 pump? I have so much room in this 810, wanna start using some thick rads and grab a GPU block also.


Yes, you can do this provided that you have enough clearance for the RX360 radiator. You probably won't be able to have the ports for that radiator coming out of the front because there is a shelf in the way that will block the use of those ports. Having that radiator in push/pull will also be difficult if you have tall heat sinks at the top of your motherboard.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sorry about that. What I meant was that you couldn't use these adjustable fittings to connect the cards the same way that you can with the Bridge. I'm sorry for confusing you, and yes, you can use these adjustable fittings instead of using barbs.


It's allll good! LOL. Thanks for the clarification!

Is the longest one (41 to 65mm) the best choice for most new video cards?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> It's allll good! LOL. Thanks for the clarification!
> 
> Is the longest one (41 to 65mm) the best choice for most new video cards?


Actually the size of the Bridge will depend on your motherboard. Just measure the distance between the two PCI Express X16 lanes that you're using for your cards and this will give you the size of the Bridge that you'll need.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can do this provided that you have enough clearance for the RX360 radiator. You probably won't be able to have the ports for that radiator coming out of the front because there is a shelf in the way that will block the use of those ports. Having that radiator in push/pull will also be difficult if you have tall heat sinks at the top of your motherboard.


Gotcha. Thank you

I will only be running push, with the fans on the top of the case. If needed I can dremel out that top shelf.

I have to do some measuring but I think my setup will be RX360 up top, Aquatuning Single bay res, Aquatuning 680 lightning block, RX240 and Monsta 140 at the bottom.

My 3930k runs much hotter than others I've seen so I'm gonna throw money at it. Bout 45c delta load (prime95) @ 1.32v with my best H220 TIM application (push/pull) intake with AP-15's.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Gotcha. Thank you
> 
> I will only be running push, with the fans on the top of the case. If needed I can dremel out that top shelf.
> 
> I have to do some measuring but I think my setup will be RX360 up top, Aquatuning Single bay res, Aquatuning 680 lightning block, RX240 and Monsta 140 at the bottom.
> 
> My 3930k runs much hotter than others I've seen so I'm gonna throw money at it. Bout 45c delta load (prime95) @ 1.32v with my best H220 TIM application (push/pull) intake with AP-15's.


Just make sure you don't start seeing frost form around your CPU socket


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just make sure you don't start seeing frost form around your CPU socket


Sir but I live in an igloo, we are always prepared for frost.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Sir but I live in an igloo, we are always prepared for frost.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Sir but I live in an igloo, we are always prepared for frost.


Play-doh!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> It's allll good! LOL. Thanks for the clarification!
> 
> Is the longest one (41 to 65mm) the best choice for most new video cards?
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the size of the Bridge will depend on your motherboard. Just measure the distance between the two PCI Express X16 lanes that you're using for your cards and this will give you the size of the Bridge that you'll need.
Click to expand...

I believe you stated a few weeks ago that my ASrock Z77 Extreme4 has the 2.4 spacing. However, in the above post, I was asking about the length of the M-to-M connector that connects the waterblock to the bridge, not the length of the Bridge.

Is your longest connector (41 to 65mm) more appropriate than the medium-sized (20-33mm) connector for newer GPUs, or will either one clear the top of the card without a problem?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I believe you stated a few weeks ago that my ASrock Z77 Extreme4 has the 2.4 spacing. However, in the above post, I was asking about the length of the M-to-M connector that connects the waterblock to the bridge, not the length of the Bridge.
> 
> Is your longest connector (41 to 65mm) more appropriate than the medium-sized (20-33mm) connector for newer GPUs, or will either one clear the top of the card without a problem?


I really don't have any data on that and I would suggest that you're best bet would simply be to measure your card. This will be the most accurate way of determining which size to get for your connectors.


----------



## dsmwookie

BramSLI1 or any H220 owners.

I just got my H220 in and mounted up. I put it in my wife's HAF-XB on the front panel. Everything went smoothly according to the instructions. My only concern is the pump does seem to be making a trickling waterfall sound. I ve moved the case around to try and shift any air bubbles out. Should I be concerned or will they work their way out? I m keeping it turned off until I hear back.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> BramSLI1 or any H220 owners.
> 
> I just got my H220 in and mounted up. I put it in my wife's HAF-XB on the front panel. Everything went smoothly according to the instructions. My only concern is the pump does seem to be making a trickling waterfall sound. I ve moved the case around to try and shift any air bubbles out. Should I be concerned or will they work their way out? I m keeping it turned off until I hear back.


Mine did the same thing when I first hooked it up. After about a day the sound went away. Question, did you mount the reservoir above the pump and is the reservoir pointing up?


----------



## TechSilver13

I have had my replacement unit for a week now, it does the same thing, I have tried working the bubbles out but it hasnt helped. My other pump was absolutely silent, this one is way loud.


----------



## ez12a

try topping it off with some distilled.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExpertTrigger*
> 
> Mine did the same thing when I first hooked it up. After about a day the sound went away. Question, did you mount the reservoir above the pump and is the reservoir pointing up?


It is mounted in a HAF XB so it is sideways but above the pump.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Linus finally re-uploaded a new video to fix the problems from previous tests.
Very good results as it should be expected.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Linus finally re-uploaded a new video to fix the problems from previous tests.
> Very good results as it should be expected.


Awesome!


----------



## ez12a

Sooo now for TTL...


----------



## ez12a

double post.


----------



## navit

I like super eggsaver for being free buttttttt, I hate it for being sooooooooo slow from cali for me.









I now am waiting for my H220 till sat. instead of friday like it said all week TILL friday


----------



## GioV

Anyone know what barbs or connectors are needed to connect H220 tubing with a Swiftech Komodo 7900?


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Anyone know what barbs or connectors are needed to connect H220 tubing with a Swiftech Komodo 7900?


You're going to need more tubing, more coolant, an additional radiator that's at least 120mm, and (4) 3/8" ID barbs or compression fittings.

4 total = 2 for new radiator + 2 for Komodo:
(G1-4X3-8-BARB-BK) -- http://www.swiftech.com/G1-4Barbs.aspx
OR these:
(5-8x3-8-G1-4-CF-BK) -- http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx

Radiator:
(MCR120-QP-K) -- http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx

coolant::
(Hydrx-PM) -- http://www.swiftech.com/hydrx-pm-coolant.aspx

And, of course, additional 120mm fan(s) for the new radiator...


----------



## BradleyW

The H100i result does not look right to me.....


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> The H100i result does not look right to me.....


I'm not agreeing with his findings, but keep in mind the h100i has a higher density fin count, which might be terrible for the noctuas at low speed, who knows. The h220 radiator is optimized for low-med speed fans.

In Linus' actual review of the h100i, it was getting 68C with the original Sp120s operating at full speed, but at near 60db, it's a huge tradeoff.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I'm not agreeing with his findings, but keep in mind the h100i has a higher density fin count, which might be terrible for the noctuas at low speed, who knows. The h220 radiator is optimized for low-med speed fans.
> 
> In Linus' actual review of the h100i, it was getting 68C with the original Sp120s operating at full speed, but at near 60db, it's a huge tradeoff.


Well, I tested stock fans vs NF F12's and the NF F12's at low speed performed the same as the stock speeds at a massive 2700rpm. I also tested the water 2.0 extreme from Tt and the H100i beat it easy.
His testing looks massivly off. This might be because his H100i could be slightly faulty.


----------



## AgentSquirrel

I picked one up from newegg, put it on a three day and thought it would be here for the weekend. but it took them an extra day to get it shipped plus they didnt send a gift card they owed me in time to use it on the order







So... should get it on Monday. This is the final piece before I start my build.

Is flushing the H22o still being recommended?


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> The H100i result does not look right to me.....


When I get the H220 on Tuesday _(4/30)_, I plan on testing both the H100i and H220 with the same fans.

I don't care which is better personally. I got the H220 for future upgrading into full watercooling.


----------



## ez12a

dont forget to fill out the owners form to join the club! It will also help create a repository of how people made their particular kit fit on their mobo with their case config.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> dont forget to fill out the owners form to join the club! It will also help create a repository of how people made their particular kit fit on their mobo with their case config.


yeah yeah, ill get to it after i install it tomorrow. stuck at work all day, received the last of my watercooling parts this morning, CAN'T WAIT TO GO HOME and do a leak test after extending the loop to the gpu.


----------



## SDBolts619

As part of my sleeving, cabling and tweaking project I'm on now, I've replaced the fans on my H220 with Lepa Casino 1C fans. Hopefully by Saturday, I'll be up and running (gotta finish making PCI-E cables) and we'll test out to see if there's any performance difference, but given these stats, I think they'll be very similar:

RPM Range:

Helix - 800-1800
Casino - 600-1600
Airflow:

Helix - 22-55 CFM
Casino - 25-64 CFM
Static Pressure:

Helix - 0.53-2.29
Casino - 0.66-2.18
dBA:

Helix - 16-33
Casino - 15-25
Very similar specs - the Casino may actually perform better at low speeds, moving more air at a better static pressure, while at high speeds, the Helix remains behind on airflow but moves slightly ahead on static pressure...

Thoughts?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> I picked one up from newegg, put it on a three day and thought it would be here for the weekend. but it took them an extra day to get it shipped plus they didnt send a gift card they owed me in time to use it on the order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... should get it on Monday. This is the final piece before I start my build.
> 
> Is flushing the H22o still being recommended?


No, all of these units were fully tested, flushed, and refilled before being sent out to Newegg.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Ordered 4/24/13, 2-day shipping, shipped 4/25/13... ... ... ETA 4/29/13. Stupid weekend! grrrr...









My initial install will involve the H220 and 2 x Zalman LQ320's (2 x 120mm rads) = three separate loops with three separate rads. The H220 240mm rad will be at the top of the case, while both Zalman rads will be at the lower front of the case. I have 4 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons (1850 RPM). I'm planning to do push/pull on all rads.

*Question:* Given the awesome performance of the GT fans, which rad(s) should I put the GT's on for best results? The H220 rad, or the two Zalman rads?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Ordered 4/24/13, 2-day shipping, shipped 4/25/13... ... ... ETA 4/29/13. Stupid weekend! grrrr...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My initial install will involve the H220 and 2 x Zalman LQ320's (2 x 120mm rads) = three separate loops with three separate rads. The H220 240mm rad will be at the top of the case, while both Zalman rads will be at the lower front of the case. I have 4 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons (1850 RPM). I'm planning to do push/pull on all rads.
> 
> *Question:* Given the awesome performance of the GT fans, which rad(s) should I put the GT's on for best results? The H220 rad, or the two Zalman rads?


h220, because as long as the GPUS are under water it doesnt really matter too much.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Ordered 4/24/13, 2-day shipping, shipped 4/25/13... ... ... ETA 4/29/13. Stupid weekend! grrrr...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My initial install will involve the H220 and 2 x Zalman LQ320's (2 x 120mm rads) = three separate loops with three separate rads. The H220 240mm rad will be at the top of the case, while both Zalman rads will be at the lower front of the case. I have 4 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons (1850 RPM). I'm planning to do push/pull on all rads.
> 
> *Question:* Given the awesome performance of the GT fans, which rad(s) should I put the GT's on for best results? The H220 rad, or the two Zalman rads?
> 
> 
> 
> h220, because as long as the GPUS are under water it doesnt really matter too much.
Click to expand...

Ok, great, that makes sense. Thanks for the response! I'll move the H220's stock fans down to the Zalman rads for the push/pull setups down there.

Maybe I'll get lucky and the H220 will show up today instead of Monday...


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Maybe I'll get lucky and the H220 will show up today instead of Monday...


Dont use Newegg's tracking system, track shipment via UPS. Thought mine would be Monday as per Newegg but checked UPS' site and it was scheduled for early delivery today and original delivery Monday. Also helps if you have a friend that's the one doing your deliveries









Time to get to work (Not pictured: Clear UV blue tubing, beer, and distilled water with silver)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Dont use Newegg's tracking system, track shipment via UPS. Thought mine would be Monday as per Newegg but checked UPS' site and it was scheduled for early delivery today and original delivery Monday. Also helps if you have a friend that's the one doing your deliveries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to get to work (Not pictured: Clear UV blue tubing, beer, and distilled water with silver)


Uh, I highly recommend that you don't use beer in your loop. This will most certainly cause issues related to organism growth


----------



## Ragsters

So is the H320 close to reality yet?


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Uh, I highly recommend that you don't use beer in your loop. This will most certainly cause issues related to organism growth


I imagine it's a very bad idea to drink the distilled water with silver, and then use the beer in the loop...


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Dont use Newegg's tracking system, track shipment via UPS. Thought mine would be Monday as per Newegg but checked UPS' site and it was scheduled for early delivery today and original delivery Monday. Also helps if you have a friend that's the one doing your deliveries


I just tried that, but the UPS system actually matches the Egg's system -- both say ETA is Monday. It left NJ at noon today and I live in VA...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Dont use Newegg's tracking system, track shipment via UPS. Thought mine would be Monday as per Newegg but checked UPS' site and it was scheduled for early delivery today and original delivery Monday. Also helps if you have a friend that's the one doing your deliveries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to get to work (Not pictured: Clear UV blue tubing, beer, and distilled water with silver)


looking forward to your build!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Uh, I highly recommend that you don't use beer in your loop. This will most certainly cause issues related to organism growth


Oh its fine







Going to put in the Utopias, alcohol content should help lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I just tried that, but the UPS system actually matches the Egg's system -- both say ETA is Monday. It left NJ at noon today and I live in VA...


I remember my 8800gts 512mb making it to CT in 16 hours using their free 3 day back when seems to have slumped here and there
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> looking forward to your build!


I hope its as clean as yours, I'm in a 650D instead of my cosmos ii so we'll see.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So is the H320 close to reality yet?


It's still going to be a little while because of the move that we just finished. I'll keep everyone here posted and let all of you know when we have a confirmed ETA on the H320.


----------



## TeeBlack

My guess would be July or August


----------



## ez12a

in any case i hope the demand for the H220 and its variants is sufficient lol, way early in the news thread it all hinged upon how popular the h220 was.

the fact that it's so hotly debated on the newest Linus video shows it's a serious contender.









the eisberg and other similar "expandable" AIOs have not been nearly as successful.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> in any case i hope the demand for the H220 and its variants is sufficient lol, way early in the news thread it all hinged upon how popular the h220 was.
> 
> the fact that it's so hotly debated on the newest Linus video shows it's a serious contender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the eisberg and other similar "expandable" AIOs have not been nearly as successful.


Whatever happened to Cooler Master's Eisberg? I thought it was supposed to come out a while ago and I haven't heard anything about it for a few months now. They still have it on their website, but there's no information on when it's set to hit the market.


----------



## dbrisc

Man, all these pics just make it even worse being poor haha. Wanting to do a new build and get a h220 and I keep looking in here and it just makes it worse!









Everyone's rigs are looking great though with the h220's!


----------



## ep45-ds3l

Any news on Microcenter getting them in?? Waiting patiently in Ohio..


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Whatever happened to Cooler Master's Eisberg? I thought it was supposed to come out a while ago and I haven't heard anything about it for a few months now. They still have it on their website, but there's no information on when it's set to hit the market.


They are on sale now, but the price they are going for is getting into the custom kit region, I think your h220 is priced right and looks better


----------



## savagepagan

By the time this cooler is widely available, ST will be ready to release the 360mm version.


----------



## TeeBlack

the Eisberg looks ugly and the pump i heard is very noisey.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> the Eisberg looks ugly and the pump i heard is very noisey.


i've heard the same.

combined with the cost of manufacturing it in Germany and then importing it, i dont think they're in a rush to make them widely available in the US.






edit2:
@7:55 CM rep says they'll release the full unit


----------



## TeeBlack

so the H220 for us in the US and the Eisberg for EU.


----------



## Azefore

Just got the old gal up and running, jumped in for 10 minutes of Tomb Raider maxed out on the single 670, all I can say is I'm impressed. 99% usage and not a smidge over 33c on GPU and 39c on CPU. I'd say there's good headroom for some proper OCing now









I'll get pictures of the loop tomorrow, changed it ever so slightly from originally intended, going to let it sit for tonight and do another leak test after work tomorrow.

The H220 worked without a hitch, only side notes from me was that mounting it could've been easier even having the case laid flat and there's a minor blemish on the top plastic of the cpu block.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Question: does anyone happen to have photos of how you modded (drilled) the top of your case to install the rad with the refill cap pointed up for easy external access?

Bonus points if you can show me how you did it on an Arc Midi R2 case!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Question: does anyone happen to have photos of how you modded (drilled) the top of your case to install the rad with the refill cap pointed up for easy external access?
> 
> Bonus points if you can show me how you did it on an Arc Midi R2 case!


With the Arc Midi R2 it would be as simple as installing the H220, making a template and doing a little cutting to the top grill. The fan are slightly above the fill cap, so there's no modding other than an access hole for filling. You're lucky to have a case where you can just install the unit, doesn't seem like anyone has posted about a HAF XM install yet, so I guess I'll post pictures after I do mine.

Edit: Here's an image with the unit mounted in the Arc Midi R2 and the fill cap visible.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Just got the old gal up and running, jumped in for 10 minutes of Tomb Raider maxed out on the single 670, all I can say is I'm impressed. 99% usage and not a smidge over 33c on GPU and 39c on CPU. I'd say there's good headroom for some proper OCing now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll get pictures of the loop tomorrow, changed it ever so slightly from originally intended, going to let it sit for tonight and do another leak test after work tomorrow.
> 
> The H220 worked without a hitch, only side notes from me was that mounting it could've been easier even having the case laid flat and there's a minor blemish on the top plastic of the cpu block.


are you using an extra rad or just the h220 for the cpu and gpu?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> are you using an extra rad or just the h220 for the cpu and gpu?


The standard 240mm and then a magicool 120mm slim.


----------



## GioV

I asked about the Komodo Barbs earlier.

Today I found a great deal and got a 7970 in a Swiftech Komodo water block for $250. I spent the whole evening setting it up, I did have to cut some corners but for my first step into real water cooling I think I did well. I'm a little paranoid about leaks, especially since I shaved off layers on the H220 tube to be able to fit it in the barbs that came with my 7970. The temps are really good, my 6950 with a custom cooler usually idled around 40C but the 7970 and i5 3570k both stay just under 30C.

I'll buy an extra radiator and real coolant rather than distilled water some time next month.

The case is an Arc Midi R2, it fits the H220 well but you won't be able to put in all the screws.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The standard 240mm and then a magicool 120mm slim.


oh ok. cant wait to add my gpu. i need a komodo 7950! any donations Swiftech??


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Question: does anyone happen to have photos of how you modded (drilled) the top of your case to install the rad with the refill cap pointed up for easy external access?
> 
> Bonus points if you can show me how you did it on an Arc Midi R2 case!
> 
> 
> 
> With the Arc Midi R2 it would be as simple as installing the H220, making a template and doing a little cutting to the top grill. The fan are slightly above the fill cap, so there's no modding other than an access hole for filling. You're lucky to have a case where you can just install the unit, doesn't seem like anyone has posted about a HAF XM install yet, so I guess I'll post pictures after I do mine.
> 
> Edit: Here's an image with the unit mounted in the Arc Midi R2 and the fill cap visible.
Click to expand...

That.was.perfect! Seriously, perfect visual, thank you. I just need to figure out how to make the new hole there look clean.

Consider the whole jar of bonus points yours!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Today I found a great deal and got a 7970 in a Swiftech Komodo water block for $250.


Score!!
Quote:


> The case is an Arc Midi R2, it fits the H220 well but you won't be able to put in all the screws.


Wait... what? Doh! Can you explain that a bit? What's in the way?


----------



## Maiky

last one available..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-H220-CPU-Cooler-BRAND-NEW-IN-BOX-/221219095029?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item3381af81f5


----------



## ez12a

lol people actually trying to scalp the h220...


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maiky*
> 
> last one available..
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-H220-CPU-Cooler-BRAND-NEW-IN-BOX-/221219095029?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item3381af81f5


$200 ?! Ha! You just gotta love supply and demand... no way in hell I'd ever pay that, though.


----------



## Skullwipe

In the image I linked all 8 screws appear to be in the proper locations with the H220 offset to the outside edge. Here's the full article, they don't mention having any mounting issues.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=1082&Itemid=23&limit=1&limitstart=5


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Wait... what? Doh! Can you explain that a bit? What's in the way?


I have an MSI Mpower, much like a saberthooth for example it has a rather large heat spreader (big thing just above the CPU). Due to that the mobo impeded me from putting the H220 in what otherwise would be the regular screw holes, I basically had to put the radiator farther away from the CPU on the roof of the Arc Midi and use the mesh as the screw holes. Its not really a big deal, its better than putting the fans on top of my old HAF 922.


----------



## Maiky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> $200 ?! Ha! You just gotta love supply and demand... no way in hell I'd ever pay that, though.


I hear ya, I wouldn't pay that much either. Would have been nice to buy a few when they came out though


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> I have an MSI Mpower, much like a saberthooth for example it has a rather large heat spreader (big thing just above the CPU). Due to that the mobo impeded me from putting the H220 in what otherwise would be the regular screw holes, I basically had to put the radiator farther away from the CPU on the roof of the Arc Midi and use the mesh as the screw holes. Its not really a big deal, its better than putting the fans on top of my old HAF 922.


Is yours an Arc Midi R2? Here's an image of the h220 in a Midi R2 along with a motherboard featuring a heat sink on the top VRM's.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Ahh, ok, damn. Sorry to hear about that, but glad it worked out!


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Is yours an Arc Midi R2? Here's an image of the h220 in a Midi R2 along with a motherboard featuring a heat sink on the top VRM's.


Yep, bought it since it was recommended by a user here. Perhaps the Mpower heat spreaders are larger, I also moved one of the 140mm fans and placed it on the roof where the Optical Drives would go, that also impedes the hoses by just a bit. Nothing a little modding can't solve.


----------



## paleh0rse14

It's beginning to look like I may have to put my top fans outside the case if I hope to fit a push/pull setup...


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> It's beginning to look like I may have to put my top fans outside the case if I hope to fit a push/pull setup...


Yes sadly







As awesome as the Arc Midi is it is only a Mid Tower case.


----------



## paleh0rse14

True... maybe it will inspire me to craft some sort of crazy transparent shroud.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

People suggested I post here regarding some issues I was having with my new H220.

I made a thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1386158/swiftech-h220-noise-and-mediocre-performance for the details but basically in summary the thermals seem pretty bad compared to what I have seen other getting, and I had some concerns about some noises that seem strange as well as coolant levels.


----------



## ez12a

I would double check your mounting. Do you have the pump oriented so the tubes are coming out the sides? I found on my P8Z68 that the VRM heatsinks got in the way of the barbs. I had to mount my pump so the inlet was at the top. This seems to be *the only* orientation where the VRM did not touch the barbs. You will get bad temps if your heatsinks are anything like the P8Z68. Trust me, I know. I had a h100i and the h220 was doing 3 degrees worse with the bad mount. Now it's doing 3 degrees better.

Check it:


as far as the coolant noise, top it off with some distilled so there's no more air. Do this when you remove the pump to reseat it. You'll need to probably shake and rotate the kit with the pump running to work all the air into the reservoir. Bryan from Swiftech has said adding some distilled to the factory coolant to top it off will not harm the system (in stock form).


----------



## Azefore

Ok here's some snaps of the new loop, credit to ez12a for his loop design, used same in mine but flipped the top 240mm the other way around (first time custom water cooler paranoid over tube and fitting stress







)

I think it turned out pretty well for first time at it, still need to clean up some of the front cabling and manage my back wiring with the swifech's pwm controller, might go for a fan controller for the noctuas instead of software.

Temp wise I haven't pushed it yet, but in Bioshock (my most demanding game I'm playing around in) the gpu has hit 38c with all fans and the pump on lowest settings. Anyways so far so good, thanks Swiftech for an awesome product.









Edit: The UV blue is much more rich and a darker hue in person, PS and LR didn't like my RAW files today so I just uploaded jpegs.


----------



## Dudewitbow

May I ask if thats UV tubing, if it is, which tubing is it? and which cathode did you use to get the effect. A slightly future build of mines is on the works at a later date, though starting off by getting some UV gelid fans.


----------



## mastahg

Looks like the p8z68 is a popular board. That's what I am using as well. I think I am going to try reseating the h220 pump using the corsair method where it is tightened down by thumb screws onto M-M screws. I've had nothing but problems getting it to sit right when using ST's screws with springs.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ok here's some snaps of the new loop, credit to ez12a for his loop design, used same in mine but flipped the top 240mm the other way around (first time custom water cooler paranoid over tube and fitting stress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I think it turned out pretty well for first time at it, still need to clean up some of the front cabling and manage my back wiring with the swifech's pwm controller, might go for a fan controller for the noctuas instead of software.
> 
> Temp wise I haven't pushed it yet, but in Bioshock (my most demanding game I'm playing around in) the gpu has hit 38c with all fans and the pump on lowest settings. Anyways so far so good, thanks Swiftech for an awesome product.










looks great! What case are you running? It looks like you got plenty of space up top to mount the reservoir pointing up.

If I could I would run it just like you as well, but the the ceiling is short on the 600t and the uppermost block of USB ports on the mobo gets in the way of the res lol. I scratched my radiator just test fitting it.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ok here's some snaps of the new loop, credit to ez12a for his loop design, used same in mine but flipped the top 240mm the other way around (first time custom water cooler paranoid over tube and fitting stress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I think it turned out pretty well for first time at it, still need to clean up some of the front cabling and manage my back wiring with the swifech's pwm controller, might go for a fan controller for the noctuas instead of software.
> 
> Temp wise I haven't pushed it yet, but in Bioshock (my most demanding game I'm playing around in) the gpu has hit 38c with all fans and the pump on lowest settings. Anyways so far so good, thanks Swiftech for an awesome product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The UV blue is much more rich and a darker hue in person, PS and LR didn't like my RAW files today so I just uploaded jpegs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks great!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> May I ask if thats UV tubing, if it is, which tubing is it? and which cathode did you use to get the effect. A slightly future build of mines is on the works at a later date, though starting off by getting some UV gelid fans.


Indeed it is, it's XSPC's clear/blue UV tubing and I'm using Logisys' UV cathodes, $9 at Amazon I think(?). I'm not knowledgeable in the tubing department but I know people have reported issues on varying brands so I just jumped at what looked ok to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great! What case are you running? It looks like you got plenty of space up top to mount the reservoir pointing up.
> 
> If I could I would run it just like you as well, but the the ceiling is short on the 600t and the uppermost block of USB ports on the mobo gets in the way of the res lol. I scratched my radiator just test fitting it.


Thank you sir, and it's the 650D. Also yah plenty of space with it pointed up but then again the noctuas are a good spacer, I was able to undo the top radiator and bring it out to bleed and top off without disturbing the other components because of the switch around I did in the configuration. Also ouch I feel you on that, I thought the 600T used the 650D's interior steel by quick glances Ive seen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Looks great!


Thanks


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I would double check your mounting. Do you have the pump oriented so the tubes are coming out the sides? I found on my P8Z68 that the VRM heatsinks got in the way of the barbs. I had to mount my pump so the inlet was at the top. This seems to be *the only* orientation where the VRM did not touch the barbs. You will get bad temps if your heatsinks are anything like the P8Z68. Trust me, I know. I had a h100i and the h220 was doing 3 degrees worse with the bad mount. Now it's doing 3 degrees better.
> 
> as far as the coolant noise, top it off with some distilled so there's no more air. Do this when you remove the pump to reseat it. You'll need to probably shake and rotate the kit with the pump running to work all the air into the reservoir. Bryan from Swiftech has said adding some distilled to the factory coolant to top it off will not harm the system (in stock form).


Mine is mounted like this:


The case is just really bad all around for trying to fit this thing. The holes at the top arent the proper spacing, there isn't enough clearance between the top of the case and the board, and also because its so short I can only orient the block 1 way or else I put stress on parts of the tubing.


----------



## navit

Got my h220 today and what A pain to put in a 600t with a z77 sabertooth. the 8 pin is right in the way and I really had to wedge it in there.
Little curious about the cure time of this tim from swiftech. I fired it up and ran ibt to see right off the bat and max temp on any core running 4.5
was 75 so I am cool with that. I do love how silent this thing is


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> I would double check your mounting. Do you have the pump oriented so the tubes are coming out the sides? I found on my P8Z68 that the VRM heatsinks got in the way of the barbs. I had to mount my pump so the inlet was at the top. This seems to be *the only* orientation where the VRM did not touch the barbs. You will get bad temps if your heatsinks are anything like the P8Z68. Trust me, I know. I had a h100i and the h220 was doing 3 degrees worse with the bad mount. Now it's doing 3 degrees better.
> 
> as far as the coolant noise, top it off with some distilled so there's no more air. Do this when you remove the pump to reseat it. You'll need to probably shake and rotate the kit with the pump running to work all the air into the reservoir. Bryan from Swiftech has said adding some distilled to the factory coolant to top it off will not harm the system (in stock form).
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is mounted like this:
> 
> 
> The case is just really bad all around for trying to fit this thing. The holes at the top arent the proper spacing, there isn't enough clearance between the top of the case and the board, and also because its so short I can only orient the block 1 way or else I put stress on parts of the tubing.
Click to expand...

I would invest in a better case.
Take a look at the Arc Midi R2. Under $100 and no issue with H220 mounting correctly in push/pull
Plus need to work on cable management.


----------



## navit

Here is a pic of mine


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would invest in a better case.
> Take a look at the Arc Midi R2. Under $100 and no issue with H220 mounting correctly in push/pull
> Plus need to work on cable management.


Yeah I am looking at a few right now but most of the ones I want are out of my price range. I am pretty much done with mid towers they are just really annoying to work in. My next case would probably be a big full tower like a HAF-X or Switch 810. The best option right now is the Fractal Define XL R2 which is on Newegg for like $90 shipped until tomorrow. If nothing else comes up before then I will probably just go for that since it is such a good price.

As far as cable management it is just messy right now because everything is temporary. I have no panels on the case including the front and top bezels, and the Swiftech radiator fans are just sitting loose on the top of the case because I couldn't screw them in anywhere.

My system usually looks like this if I know that I won't be touching anything for a while:


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Mine is mounted like this:
> 
> The case is just really bad all around for trying to fit this thing. The holes at the top arent the proper spacing, there isn't enough clearance between the top of the case and the board, and also because its so short I can only orient the block 1 way or else I put stress on parts of the tubing.


I would retry mounting it. There shouldnt be a problem with stressing out the fittings as long as you dont twist the tubes too much. the 600t i have actually has less room up top than you do.

From the picture you posted I cant see the left barb, which is the one that really matters. If it's even resting on the VRM heat sink it isnt a good mount.

This is how my kit was installed prior to modification. There's much less spacing than what you have pictured.



a better case would help you install it easier too.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Yeah I just checked and it is really close to the heatsink but they aren't touching. So in that picture is that the way you have it mounted when you said you got 3 degrees better? Or is that how you had it before when it was 3 degrees worse?


----------



## ez12a

it was better the way i have it pictured in both of my pics. Mounting it with the tubes coming out the sides with the swiftech logo at the bottom had bad temps. I took off the h220 and sure enough there was a solid layer of TIM that wasnt spread by the mounting pressure on the left side of the CPU heat spreader.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Yeah I will probably just wait until I get a new case then. I don't have a backplate cutout so for me to remount it I would need to take everything back out of the case again. If I am getting a new case anyway I may as well save all that work to do when I transfer everything.


----------



## colforbin

Finally added my GPU to my loop. Thanks to Swiftech and most of you as I didn't know jack squat about WC three months ago.


----------



## nostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Finally added my GPU to my loop. Thanks to Swiftech and most of you as I didn't know jack squat about WC three months ago.


Wow gotta say it looks pretty clean, i like there no res in there. good work:thumb:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Yeah I will probably just wait until I get a new case then. I don't have a backplate cutout so for me to remount it I would need to take everything back out of the case again. If I am getting a new case anyway I may as well save all that work to do when I transfer everything.


I just finished reading the thread that you made about noise and mediocre performance. To me it would seem that there are a few things that are causing this. I would say that with your ambient temperature and the way the kit is mounted, these are combining to cause your issue. If there is some air still left in the radiator you can use distilled water to top it off. We did our best to vacuum fill these kits before they were shipped, but it's possible that some may not have been fully filled. It's always best to have the fans pushing air through the radiator then to have them pulling air through it. Please let me know if you have any other questions or issues. You can reach me at my work email at [email protected] or just send me a PM. I'm on here a lot just as the other members of this club have stated.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of mine


Looks really clean especially with the matching mobo armor, I'm guessing temps are pretty nice with the pull in and exhaust 120mms under the radiator?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would invest in a better case.
> Take a look at the Arc Midi R2. Under $100 and no issue with H220 mounting correctly in push/pull
> Plus need to work on cable management.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am looking at a few right now but most of the ones I want are out of my price range. I am pretty much done with mid towers they are just really annoying to work in. My next case would probably be a big full tower like a HAF-X or Switch 810. The best option right now is the Fractal Define XL R2 which is on Newegg for like $90 shipped until tomorrow. If nothing else comes up before then I will probably just go for that since it is such a good price.
> 
> As far as cable management it is just messy right now because everything is temporary. I have no panels on the case including the front and top bezels, and the Swiftech radiator fans are just sitting loose on the top of the case because I couldn't screw them in anywhere.
> 
> My system usually looks like this if I know that I won't be touching anything for a while:
Click to expand...

Not all mid towers are like that. Reason I mention the Arc Midi R2. There is plenty of room to install 2x 240 rads 60mm thick in push/pull. I own the case, that is why I recommend it highly.
I only buy cases that support proper watercooling.
The HAF X is ok, but not worth the price anymore. Switch 810 is very good, with plenty of room. I got tired of full towers and the 810 with all that plastic gets to you after awhile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Finally added my GPU to my loop. Thanks to Swiftech and most of you as I didn't know jack squat about WC three months ago.


Very nice. You can remove the slider under the ODD bay. You can add another fan for P/P for the front.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I just finished reading the thread that you made about noise and mediocre performance. To me it would seem that there are a few things that are causing this. I would say that with your ambient temperature and the way the kit is mounted, these are combining to cause your issue. If there is some air still left in the radiator you can use distilled water to top it off. We did our best to vacuum fill these kits before they were shipped, but it's possible that some may not have been fully filled. It's always best to have the fans pushing air through the radiator then to have them pulling air through it. Please let me know if you have any other questions or issues. You can reach me at my work email at [email protected] or just send me a PM. I'm on here a lot just as the other members of this club have stated.


Cool thanks for the help. I managed to record the sound with my phone and I am uploading the clip to Youtube so people can get a better idea of what I am talking about. I don't really have the option to mount it in push because of my case, but from the results in the 



 he was saying that he got the same temperatures in push and in pull configurations.

As far as the ambient temperatures go they are a little high but there isn't really much I can do about that other than moving to a different state lol. However, in the past I have had idle temperatures as low as 29C which doesn't really explain why the H220 is idling almost 10C hotter than my old Hyper 212+ (super budget air cooler).


----------



## ez12a

idle temps arent really indicative on how well the system is working, especially when the fans/pump speeds are throttled. Load is where it's at.

at idle and everything slowed my h220 doesnt idle much lower than my old h50.

plus, i think a remount is still in order to get best performance. Until then..


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Looks really clean especially with the matching mobo armor, I'm guessing temps are pretty nice with the pull in and exhaust 120mms under the radiator?


So far yes I am very happy, but it hasn't 12 hours yet, lol.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> So far yes I am very happy, but it hasn't 12 hours yet, lol.


You mean for leak testing etc? If so I'm glad your airing on the side of caution though lol, cancels out me because I just started using like normal after a 2 hour run and seeing how it does, so far so good.


----------



## ez12a

^same lol i couldnt wait, plus with the lok seal fittings i wasnt too worried. just make sure everything is tightened down and the tubes are seated properly on the barbs and you should be okay..


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> ^same lol i couldnt wait, plus with the lok seal fittings i wasnt too worried. just make sure everything is tightened down and the tubes are seated properly on the barbs and you should be okay..


Lol yah, those barb clamps are just so trusting feeling when I did them up again and I made sure my compressions were tightened with kung fu grip, I figured if it didnt leak with me shaking it around outside the case for 2 hours with a lot more pressure on the joints than now it would A-Ok lols








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.


Watched the video and read the thread, I had the same thing when I was building my loop. I spent a good 50-70 minutes with it on full blast (didn't have PWM control when building) with that sound. I shaked it all around, flicked tubing with my fingers, tilted and shook it about and (almost) laid the loop completely flat in the case to jog out some of the last bubbles. It persisted so I took out radiator tilted the fill end up and let it bleed whatever air bubbles were let, put another few bits of water in and then remounted the rad. Let it sit for an hour and it worked it way out.

I'd add in some distilled water like what was said on the last page(?) and really work out the bubbles.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.


air trapped in the pump makes a warbling noise that becomes apparent with high CPU temperatures and the pump at full speed. You should try topping it off. eliminated the warble for me and reduced the trickle noise.

what I actually did (not that I recommend everyone do it) is bleeding the system of air while the computer is on. With my computer on the side and the radiator unmounted and open, i prime95ed the CPU and let all the expanding air from heat rise up and out into the reservoir. I attached an extra barb that I had to the fill port so i could let it "overflow" and see the air come out. I can see the water level in the res rising with heat applied to the system, similar to bleeding air from an automobile cooling system. In the same respect, during this process I didnt have any fans running to cool the radiator or the water. Only the pump was running.

If I shake my radiator/res, i dont hear anything with it topped off (minimal to no air).


----------



## Azefore

I have a question about the pump itself, I'm manually controlling my 3 Noctua F12s and the H220 pump with speedfan right now, it's set at 35% and the pump is at ~1850rpm. At 20% or less the fans won't get enough power to keep up their rotations.
So is the 1850rpm ok for the pump or should it be higher? It doesn't seem to be chugging or anything but normal rpm on the motor before manual control was 3000rpm, just don't want to burn it out or anything.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> I have a question about the pump itself, I'm manually controlling my 3 Noctua F12s and the H220 pump with speedfan right now, it's set at 35% and the pump is at ~1850rpm. At 20% or less the fans won't get enough power to keep up their rotations.
> So is the 1850rpm ok for the pump or should it be higher? It doesn't seem to be chugging or anything but normal rpm on the motor before manual control was 3000rpm, just don't want to burn it out or anything.


should be fine. The pump is limited to 1200 minimum, no matter how low you go with the pwm signal.







Mine runs at approx 1400 rpm at idle. benefit of pwm over voltage control is that a minimum operating duty cycle(?) can be set.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> should be fine. The pump is limited to 1200 minimum, no matter how low you go with the pwm signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine runs at approx 1400 rpm at idle. benefit of pwm over voltage control is that a minimum operating duty cycle(?) can be set.


Oh ok well that's good info to have then, are you using BIOS settings for automatic control?


----------



## SkullTrail

Is $170 for a H220 a good price considering its scarcity in stock across vendors?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Oh ok well that's good info to have then, are you using BIOS settings for automatic control?


Nope, speedfan it is. Mobo has control during POST and boot (otherwise fans and pump would run full speed when i power it on lol) but once speedfan loads in Windows it's fully speedfan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkullTrail*
> 
> Is $170 for a H220 a good price considering its scarcity in stock across vendors?


I dislike scalpers, I would wait. They should be readily available in a few weeks. If it's from a private seller, you'll need the original invoice for any RMAs should it be needed.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkullTrail*
> 
> Is $170 for a H220 a good price considering its scarcity in stock across vendors?


It's a $30 upcharge, less if you factor in shipping if you don't have Newegg's 2 day program. It's not totally unreasonable if you want it this following week since the next shipment for Newegg, Xoxide, and Frozencpu are in the air, but ehh, give and take on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Nope, speedfan it is. Mobo has control during POST and boot (otherwise fans and pump would run full speed when i power it on lol) but once speedfan loads in Windows it's fully speedfan.


Gotcha, just I'll run a crash course in speedfan tomorrow, I've had a love-hate relationship with it since 07 but can't avoid it now lol.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkullTrail*
> 
> Is $170 for a H220 a good price considering its scarcity in stock across vendors?


Where you see that price? I would say no way to pay for it.
I would wait.


----------



## gdubc

Heads up to all that the h220 is in stock at the microcenter web store for 139.99


----------



## circeseye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Heads up to all that the h220 is in stock at the microcenter web store for 139.99


woohoo i got 1 i got 1. thanks for the heads up


----------



## TeeBlack

So i was at the mall today and figure id stop at Micro Center while i was there. wanted to see if they had a 900D on display yet and while looking around i noticed they still dont have the H220 in stock yet just to let some of you know who are waiting on Micro Center stock. I hate going to Micro Center because i always wanna buy something when i go in there. I really wanted to grab a Bitfenix Prodigy case but held off.


----------



## gdubc

Microcenter has them, but only the online store I think, not actually in the physical stores and I think they limit you to one per customer.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Microcenter has them, but only the online store I think, not actually in the physical stores and I think they limit you to one per customer.


you are correct thank you.


----------



## navit

I am running my from the bios and the pump is running @ 1750 rpm. That is on standard setting. I must say its very quiet all in all. I got it up to 3000rpm and could hear the water running through it.


----------



## Diablo85

H220 installed, running push/pull with the stock fans on one side and cougar fans on the other (I'll be ordering two more cougar fans shortly), dyed and looking beautiful. Temperatures are amazing (went from ~75C w/ my D14 @ 4.5ghz to 65C max so far, running IBT to find max temperature atm.) video card is idling ~35C haven't seen it go above 60C yet after reaching ~80C with the reference fan cooler.

my next project will be sleeving the cables and moving the 4 hard drives into the drive bay to make room for the H220 on the bottom and a 360mm rad up top with video cards in crossfire and adding a drain/fill port into the loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H220 installed, running push/pull with the stock fans on one side and cougar fans on the other (I'll be ordering two more cougar fans shortly), dyed and looking beautiful. Temperatures are amazing (went from ~75C w/ my D14 @ 4.5ghz to 65C max so far, running IBT to find max temperature atm.) video card is idling ~35C haven't seen it go above 60C yet after reaching ~80C with the reference fan cooler.
> 
> my next project will be sleeving the cables and moving the 4 hard drives into the drive bay to make room for the H220 on the bottom and a 360mm rad up top with video cards in crossfire and adding a drain/fill port into the loop.


That looks simply gorgeous! Great job.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So is the H320 close to reality yet?


Well, picture this: 1000 triple radiators sitting on shelves, ready for assembly into kits....it's killing me to see that, but we can't assemble them right now. Why?
We've accumulated so much backlog on H220's because of the time it took to setup the new factory that I have no choice but to focus the entire month of May building 220's to catch-up.
The good news is our new factory is getting ready to really kick ass.

I have the 320's scheduled for assembly into Kits early June. We'll ship a limited quantity by air, and the rest by Ocean. So grab yours as soon as it arrives, because they will most likely go very fast.

G-


----------



## Dudewitbow

will the 320 kits era come with the sata version of the splitter, or is that some future date?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The sata version are coming with the assembly from the new factory.

Thank you Gabe, hope I can get one in May.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Also did anyone have trouble with the long screws that came with the kit? They protrude out of the fan much further than the 8 short screws that are used on the pre-installed fans. I would be worried using them and risk puncturing anything inside.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Also did anyone have trouble with the long screws that came with the kit? They protrude out of the fan much further than the 8 short screws that are used on the pre-installed fans. I would be worried using them and risk puncturing anything inside.


I used all 8 long screws that came with the 220. they come close, but there is about 2-3mm gap between the end of the screw and the start of the fins.


----------



## paleh0rse14

What size screws do I need if I plan to run push/pull on my two 240mm rads with 25mm fans? I'd like to pick them up before my h220 arrives tomorrow.

Is #6-32 1 1/4" the standard size for any standard 25mm fan connected to a rad?


----------



## sleepy916

Quick question: I am using the included PWM fan splitter with non-PWM fans, and the fans are always on full blast. Is there anyway to get around it? I've tried adjusting in the bios but that did not work.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleepy916*
> 
> Quick question: I am using the included PWM fan splitter with non-PWM fans, and the fans are always on full blast. Is there anyway to get around it? I've tried adjusting in the bios but that did not work.


non-PWM fans will always run 100% on the splitter


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Well, picture this: 1000 triple radiators sitting on shelves, ready for assembly into kits....it's killing me to see that, but we can't assemble them right now. Why?
> We've accumulated so much backlog on H220's because of the time it took to setup the new factory that I have no choice but to focus the entire month of May building 220's to catch-up.
> The good news is our new factory is getting ready to really kick ass.
> 
> I have the 320's scheduled for assembly into Kits early June. We'll ship a limited quantity by air, and the rest by Ocean. So grab yours as soon as it arrives, because they will most likely go very fast.
> 
> G-


Thanks for the response Gabe! So does it make sense to just go on to your website late May and keep on refreshing through June until I see it up for sale? I mean what do I need to do to give myself the best chances to get a H320?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleepy916*
> 
> Quick question: I am using the included PWM fan splitter with non-PWM fans, and the fans are always on full blast. Is there anyway to get around it? I've tried adjusting in the bios but that did not work.


Only way is to use a fan controller for the 3pin fans.
Other is to get new fans that are PWM for your case. Use SpeedFan to control H220 and there fans.


----------



## GioV

For the ARC Midi pros out there,

I have a chance of getting a cheap XSPC RX360 that would go with a H220 and GPU waterblock . The case is an ARC midi R2, it seems like it would fit at the loss of my hard drive bays.

My questions are...

Is the H220 pump strong enough to move water on a vertically placed 360mm radiator?

What would be the best way to orient it?


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only way is to use a fan controller for the 3pin fans.
> Other is to get new fans that are PWM for your case. Use SpeedFan to control H220 and there fans.


Since you connect the PWM to your CPU fan control you would have to change the settings for your CPU fan speed to change all of them, the drawback is that your pump speed goes down as well.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only way is to use a fan controller for the 3pin fans.
> Other is to get new fans that are PWM for your case. Use SpeedFan to control H220 and there fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Since you connect the PWM to your CPU fan control you would have to change the settings for your CPU fan speed to change all of them, the drawback is that your pump speed goes down as well.
Click to expand...

That is fine, the pump is not need to run at full speed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> For the ARC Midi pros out there,
> 
> I have a chance of getting a cheap XSPC RX360 that would go with a H220 and GPU waterblock . The case is an ARC midi R2, it seems like it would fit at the loss of my hard drive bays.
> 
> My questions are...
> 
> Is the H220 pump strong enough to move water on a vertically placed 360mm radiator?
> 
> What would be the best way to orient it?


A 360 wont fit in the Arc Midi R2. You will need to remove the ODD bay. Top will need to be slightly modified, but will depend on mobo mosfets.Also you will need to make mounting holes to fit the 360
To place it in front is not possible, you need 400mm of clearance. Plus you will need to modify the metal frame to hold it.
You can 2x 240 rad 60mm thick in push/pull.


----------



## amtbr

Any updates on how it fits in the Corsair 500R? I saw some posts a while back that the only way to mount it was with the pump upside down, which isn't good.

I noticed on the Swiftech website, the H220 is shown mounted with the pump in the proper place. I suppose the location of VRMs / MB side will impact what direction the H220 can be mounted in?


----------



## SDBolts619

Updated my build - redid all my cables and installed Lepa Casino 1C fans on both my H220 and exhaust...

No significant temperature changes - gaming is upper 40's to low 50's. I did do an extended P95 run overnight - 4.8ghz, 1.400Vcore, 1.55CPUPLL. Temps never hit 80, although I was just a tad short on the voltage to be fully stable - had a few WHEA errors and one worker crashed after about 4 hours, so I didn't do any screenshots . 1.405-1.410 VCore would probably do the trick, but not sure I want to run that as a 24/7 OC.

The Lepa fans are a touch quieter - I'm at about 33 dBA where I sit and 45 dBA directly above the exhaust fan...

Here's a couple of crappy phone pics of the new setup - going borrow a friend's DSLR and take some quality pictures this week...

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/2013-04-27204234_zpsc39bc742.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/2013-04-27211143_zpsfa4e793e.jpg.html


----------



## dsmwookie

Any FX8320/8350 owners here? Trying to see what temps you are getting on O.C. with the 240 RAD on this thing. I m hitting thermal limit it seems but I m not sure why.

Would any harm come from running Coolermaster fans on the front and the Swiftech Helix fans on the back?


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> Any updates on how it fits in the Corsair 500R? I saw some posts a while back that the only way to mount it was with the pump upside down, which isn't good.
> 
> I noticed on the Swiftech website, the H220 is shown mounted with the pump in the proper place. I suppose the location of VRMs / MB side will impact what direction the H220 can be mounted in?


pump is fine..it's the res that has to be upside down (unless for some reason the CPU power connector is somewhere else on your mobo or you have mATX/ITX)

The pic on their website isn't clear enough to show the whether the res is upside down or not but for the 600T they clearly have it pointed down.

The rep said they cannot promise the 3-year maintence-free guarantee as it may need refill more frequently. For me it was quite disappointing as they never mentioned anything like that on the product page...so much for a hassle-free AIO

If I get a quiet replacement I plan on modding my case so the L shaped res and the fillport is in the actual top cut-out pointing up.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Any FX8320/8350 owners here? Trying to see what temps you are getting on O.C. with the 240 RAD on this thing. I m hitting thermal limit it seems but I m not sure why.
> 
> Would any harm come from running Coolermaster fans on the front and the Swiftech Helix fans on the back?


Other than having possibly faster spinning fans feeding into slower spinning fans, which is typically bad due to causing the slower spinning fans spinning faster than designed and wearing out the bearing faster. You could do what i did since i didn't have enough cougar fans on hand for a push/pull config and use the helix fans on the right half of the radiator (fill port up perspective) and cougars on the left half in push/pull as seen here


----------



## amtbr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> pump is fine..it's the res that has to be upside down (unless for some reason the CPU power connector is somewhere else on your mobo or you have mATX/ITX)
> 
> The pic on their website isn't clear enough to show the whether the res is upside down or not but for the 600T they clearly have it pointed down.
> 
> The rep said they cannot promise the 3-year maintence-free guarantee as it may need refill more frequently. For me it was quite disappointing as they never mentioned anything like that on the product page...so much for a hassle-free AIO
> 
> If I get a quiet replacement I plan on modding my case so the L shaped res and the fillport is in the actual top cut-out pointing up.


Huh...That is actually pretty dishonest of them. Since they list it as "Compatible" on their website with no mention that, while it can be installed in the case, it requires more maintenance than as advertised. Looks like I'll be going with another company's AIO. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The others are not so good. H220 is a watercooling kit. Ones you build. Not like the AIO you see now, that are sealed.
Problem with Corsair cases, is they design them to use there products only. Been that way for a long time now.

With the res down, you will need to top it off. its like any watercooling system now.
The 3-year maintenance free is as stated if you do not open it.

Which rep told you this?


----------



## NeoDestiny

So I've ordered two of the h220's, one for someone else, one for myself. Here's a picture of the current set-up I have with an h220 installed (3770k, NZXT Phantom case): http://i.imgur.com/SHm4zDM.jpg

The temps and everything while benching were fine, but the noise that comes from the cooler is...soothing? I'm not sure if it's supposed to sound like a fountain or not. Here's a recording of the noise it makes -






I don't really mind having to top it off, but I wish I knew I'd have had to before I'd installed everything, because I'm pretty sure I'll have to remove the entire unit now in order to safely add more to the reservoir. I checked the h220 that I have ordered for myself and shook it around a bit and I can definitely hear plenty of liquid sloshing around inside as well.

Is this normal? Will it go away? Should I top it off with distilled water? If these were all vacuum filled from the factory etc...how are so many going out that are less than full?


----------



## navit

Some have reported that it goes awa. I only hear it when it ramps. I just installed mine yesterday.


----------



## dsmwookie

Mine went away after a day or two of use.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> I used all 8 long screws that came with the 220. they come close, but there is about 2-3mm gap between the end of the screw and the start of the fins.


Hmm that is strange. I put the screws through the fan, and then through washers, and then through the panel of my case into the radiator and it still bent the fins a little bit. The washer and case probably gave it an extra 3-4mm of space compared to just mounting them on the radiator itself.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> Huh...That is actually pretty dishonest of them. Since they list it as "Compatible" on their website with no mention that, while it can be installed in the case, it requires more maintenance than as advertised. Looks like I'll be going with another company's AIO. Thanks for the heads up.


All it means is that you may have to top it off with distilled once or twice over the course of three years. This unit is designed to be expanded and user serviceable, it sounds like you're in the market for a CLC and not an AIO.


----------



## amtbr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> All it means is that you may have to top it off with distilled once or twice over the course of three years. This unit is designed to be expanded and user serviceable, it sounds like you're in the market for a CLC and not an AIO.


Yep, not interested in the maintenance, if I had to maintain it, I'd spend the extra and learn how to make my own loop. One of the best things about my air cooler is I haven't had to touch it in 4 years, other than to dust it and it works great.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> Yep, not interested in the maintenance, if I had to maintain it, I'd spend the extra and learn how to make my own loop. One of the best things about my air cooler is I haven't had to touch it in 4 years, other than to dust it and it works great.


Sounds like you made up your mind before commenting, to each their own, I'll take the H220's performance over the size of higher end air coolers or weaker powered AIOs but that's me.


----------



## Obi Wan

Wow. I should have waited... I was impatient and ordered the H100i because I could never find the H220 in stock anywhere. I have recently decided to expand (didn't think I was going to at 1st) to cooling my GPU's and wish I would have waited. Bummer.

Oh well, I suppose I could always put the H100i in my wife's rig and still order the H220 for mine. I plan to upgrade to Haswell soon anyway, so that'll give me an excuse. It's settled then.








I feel better already...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi Wan*
> 
> Wow. I should have waited... I was impatient and ordered the H100i because I could never find the H220 in stock anywhere. I have recently decided to expand (didn't think I was going to at 1st) to cooling my GPU's and wish I would have waited. Bummer.
> 
> Oh well, I suppose I could always put the H100i in my wife's rig and still order the H220 for mine. I plan to upgrade to Haswell soon anyway, so that'll give me an excuse. It's settled then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better already...


lol that was easy.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi Wan*
> 
> Wow. I should have waited... I was impatient and ordered the H100i because I could never find the H220 in stock anywhere. I have recently decided to expand (didn't think I was going to at 1st) to cooling my GPU's and wish I would have waited. Bummer.
> 
> Oh well, I suppose I could always put the H100i in my wife's rig and still order the H220 for mine. I plan to upgrade to Haswell soon anyway, so that'll give me an excuse. It's settled then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better already...


When one wants to spend, if you have money, it is always an excuse.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> All it means is that you may have to top it off with distilled once or twice over the course of three years. This unit is designed to be expanded and user serviceable, it sounds like you're in the market for a CLC and not an AIO.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, not interested in the maintenance, if I had to maintain it, I'd spend the extra and learn how to make my own loop. One of the best things about my air cooler is I haven't had to touch it in 4 years, other than to dust it and it works great.
Click to expand...

Thing is that you dont have to do anything to the H220 if you do not open it.
If you mount it correctly with the fill port up, you shouldnt need to fill it. Thats what the 3 year maintenance free warranty does.

The H220 is a custom kit, just per-built for you.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi Wan*
> 
> Wow. I should have waited... I was impatient and ordered the H100i because I could never find the H220 in stock anywhere. I have recently decided to expand (didn't think I was going to at 1st) to cooling my GPU's and wish I would have waited. Bummer.
> 
> Oh well, I suppose I could always put the H100i in my wife's rig and still order the H220 for mine. I plan to upgrade to Haswell soon anyway, so that'll give me an excuse. It's settled then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better already...


I love a good one man conversation, especially when it leads to such a logical conclusion. Don't forget to buy yourself a shiny new case to house your new rig!


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> So I've ordered two of the h220's, one for someone else, one for myself. Here's a picture of the current set-up I have with an h220 installed (3770k, NZXT Phantom case): http://i.imgur.com/SHm4zDM.jpg
> 
> The temps and everything while benching were fine, but the noise that comes from the cooler is...soothing? I'm not sure if it's supposed to sound like a fountain or not. Here's a recording of the noise it makes -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really mind having to top it off, but I wish I knew I'd have had to before I'd installed everything, because I'm pretty sure I'll have to remove the entire unit now in order to safely add more to the reservoir. I checked the h220 that I have ordered for myself and shook it around a bit and I can definitely hear plenty of liquid sloshing around inside as well.
> 
> Is this normal? Will it go away? Should I top it off with distilled water? If these were all vacuum filled from the factory etc...how are so many going out that are less than full?


Hey this is noremac13 from your stream. I posted on here a few days ago about the issues I was having with mine and it should be applicable to you as well. When I would tilt my radiator around there was also a ton of empty space which isn't normal. The trickle sound is an indicator of air in the system. Part of the problem is mounting the radiator with the fill port facing downward, which is how I have mine mounted and I am getting the same kind of sound. The way that the radiator is designed with the reservoir attached means that the optimal way to mount it is with the fill port facing up. This causes an air trap near the fill port so that any air bubbles passing through the reservoir get trapped instead of constantly circulating through the loop. From what I have been told you can mount it fill port down, but to do so you have to make sure the fluid is absolutly topped off where there is no empty space in the system and also you are going to have to spend a lot more time bleeding the system of air. Overall it is just more effective to mount it with the fill port facing up. Ideally the only noise the system should be making is from the pump motor and the fans. The liquid inside should be silent.


----------



## TeeBlack

hey if he dont want it that's another H220 available for someone else who does


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obi Wan*
> 
> Wow. I should have waited... I was impatient and ordered the H100i because I could never find the H220 in stock anywhere. I have recently decided to expand (didn't think I was going to at 1st) to cooling my GPU's and wish I would have waited. Bummer.
> 
> Oh well, I suppose I could always put the H100i in my wife's rig and still order the H220 for mine. I plan to upgrade to Haswell soon anyway, so that'll give me an excuse. It's settled then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel better already...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> lol that was easy.


lol. That's pretty much my situation. I'll be upgrading my CPU/Mobo when I can and wife get my past build(s).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> hey if he dont want it that's another H220 available for someone else who does


Exactly.


----------



## Philly27

Has anyone put the H220 up front in an R4 like thishttp://www.sotechdesign.com.au/?attachment_id=588 ? I'm thinking of mounting it this way, would there be a problem with air getting into the pump? I want to go stock till I'm confident enough to add on. Thanks


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly27*
> 
> Has anyone put the H220 up front in an R4 like thishttp://www.sotechdesign.com.au/?attachment_id=588 ? I'm thinking of mounting it this way, would there be a problem with air getting into the pump? I want to go stock till I'm confident enough to add on. Thanks


probably the worst way to mount it, but it's probably doable if you top the thing off and check it every few months. Honestly I would probably modify it and put a T in the intake line as Martin suggested previously to make your own air catch. or an in line reservoir.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly27*
> 
> Has anyone put the H220 up front in an R4 like thishttp://www.sotechdesign.com.au/?attachment_id=588 ? I'm thinking of mounting it this way, would there be a problem with air getting into the pump? I want to go stock till I'm confident enough to add on. Thanks


just be sure to check it every one in awhile since you probably dont want the pump being the highest point in the loop, as air will tend to stay there after evaporation. of course, if you have something higher than the pump, thats a different story.


----------



## Scorpion667

Bryan you guys should design a pump top for the H220 so we can use other blocks further down the upgrade path =D


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220 is a watercooling kit. Ones you build. Not like the AIO you see now, that are sealed.
> 
> With the res down, you will need to top it off. its like any watercooling system now.
> The 3-year maintenance free is as stated if you do not open it.
> 
> Which rep told you this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Thing is that you dont have to do anything to the H220 if you do not open it.
> If you mount it correctly with the fill port up, you shouldnt need to fill it. Thats what the 3 year maintenance free warranty does.
> 
> The H220 is a custom kit, just per-built for you.


Bram said you may need to top it off regularly, implying that the 3-year maintence-free claim is bogus (sorry I couldn't think of a better word...it may sound harsh)

I disagree with you, H220 is marketed as a AIO maintence-free for a few years backed by the pioneers of the WC industry.

I do feel it is misleading 500R/600T owners that their case is compatible without noting some fine print of said exception (T-line/external res needed or 3-year maintence free does not apply)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220 is a watercooling kit. Ones you build. Not like the AIO you see now, that are sealed.
> 
> With the res down, you will need to top it off. its like any watercooling system now.
> The 3-year maintenance free is as stated if you do not open it.
> 
> Which rep told you this?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Thing is that you dont have to do anything to the H220 if you do not open it.
> If you mount it correctly with the fill port up, you shouldnt need to fill it. Thats what the 3 year maintenance free warranty does.
> 
> The H220 is a custom kit, just per-built for you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bram said you may need to top it off regularly, implying that the 3-year maintence-free claim is bogus (sorry I couldn't think of a better word...it may sound harsh)
> 
> I disagree with you, H220 is marketed as a AIO maintence-free for a few years backed by the pioneers of the WC industry.
> 
> I do feel it is misleading 500R/600T owners that their case is compatible without noting some fine print of said exception (T-line/external res needed or 3-year maintence free does not apply)
Click to expand...

Yes it is AIO with expandability. It is still a custom kit. Its not a bogus claim. You dont really need to fill it, not unless you open the system up.
There is no misleading from the 500R/600T. Blame Corsair for that, they are the ones to make the case specifically to use there H100/H100i and no one else.
Swiftech cant make a unit that works with every case. That is your job to find the correct one that will suit your needs.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> *There is no misleading from the 500R/600T*. Swiftech cant make a unit that works with every case. *That is your job to find the correct one that will suit your needs.*


Oh? Then why would Swiftech under their Product page under the tab *compatibility* list the 500R/600T as compatible?



Yeah it fits alright, but it won't run to specification, aka no refills during the 1st 3 years.

Like I said, they need to put in a fine print for those 2 cases.

I'm not trying to play the scumbag lawyer here or create tension against an otherwise superb team that stand behind their product, but one can clearly see why this issue is misleading.

I agree Corsair is lame for making their case proprietary.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

As it would fit in that case with the port down. Not the best way of doing it. All this came at a rush for everyone once H220 was released. There is even some mobo that might make the 500R/600T will prevent the H220 from even fitting.

I'm not trying to be a bad guy here, its just not all Swiftech responsibility to make sure everything works with everything. I know that myself if I need to make sure what i got fits, I have to measure and understand what I'm getting.

Cant expect to be spoon fed everything. Which i see many people need now.

I understand. Why not just get a better case, so you do not have to worry about this.
$100 or less you can get the Arc Midi R2. You can P/P your H220 on the top with no clearance issues.
Sell your 500R to help pay for the difference.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

So I guess I am the only one that is having problems with the screws being too long?


----------



## Magnum26

@swiftech

Is there any news when us Brits can get our hands on the H220, seems like I've been waiting forever for it to come out. The only place I can find it online to the UK just keeps updating their Pre-order dates later and later and later.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> @swiftech
> 
> Is there any news when us Brits can get our hands on the H220, seems like I've been waiting forever for it to come out. The only place I can find it online to the UK just keeps updating their Pre-order dates later and later and later.


By the time they show up in the UK, the H320 will probably be out, or something better than the H220. I gave up after waiting for months and got a H100i.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> So I guess I am the only one that is having problems with the screws being too long?


Mine were too short to mount from top of my 650D through its own anti vibration pads, down the noctuas with their set of two anti vibration pads on every corner and down into the radiator lol. I went to hardware store and got some black replacements for correct length.


----------



## amtbr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> As it would fit in that case with the port down. Not the best way of doing it. All this came at a rush for everyone once H220 was released. There is even some mobo that might make the 500R/600T will prevent the H220 from even fitting.
> 
> I'm not trying to be a bad guy here, its just not all Swiftech responsibility to make sure everything works with everything. I know that myself if I need to make sure what i got fits, I have to measure and understand what I'm getting.
> 
> Cant expect to be spoon fed everything. Which i see many people need now.
> 
> I understand. Why not just get a better case, so you do not have to worry about this.
> $100 or less you can get the Arc Midi R2. You can P/P your H220 on the top with no clearance issues.
> Sell your 500R to help pay for the difference.


When a consumer looks at a list of cases deemed "Compatible" by the manufacturer, they are under the impression that the H220 is just that, compatible with their case, without additional modification or "what ifs." Its not even a matter of being spoon fed, its a matter of a representation being made by the manufacturer of the product, that we put this in X case and we deem the case to be compatible. Now Swiftech is backpeddaling on its claims of maintenance free for users of the 500R and possibly other cases in the future they have deemed "Compatible." If Swiftech was smart and/or cared about what its customers will do with the H220, it would alert uses of specific cases while it is compatible, you wont get the trouble free solution we advertise.

Your suggestion for a better case is a great solution and helpful, given that its very practical to get an entirely new case for the H220 and that the 500R is an excellent case in its on right.


----------



## Greenback

Gabe or Bram any idea how much the H320 is going to cost in the UK ?


----------



## italstal

Just yesterday night, I noticed a constant low pitch load buzzing sound coming from my pump. I took a quick video to try to show what it sounds like. It seems to be there no matter what speed I set the pump at. I know that the typical pump sound is more high pitch but this new louder lower pitch buzzing just started separately. Does anyone know what is wrong and how to possibly fix it, thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> Gabe or Bram any idea how much the H320 is going to cost in the UK ?


Until the backorders for the H220 is done, they will start to work on the H320. Cost they mentioned is $20 more over the H220.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> By the time they show up in the UK, the H320 will probably be out, or something better than the H220. I gave up after waiting for months and got a H100i.


Sorry you didnt wait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> @swiftech
> 
> Is there any news when us Brits can get our hands on the H220, seems like I've been waiting forever for it to come out. The only place I can find it online to the UK just keeps updating their Pre-order dates later and later and later.


They were selling it, just a small stock.

Swiftech did move to a new factory this month and will restart production again. There is many back orders all over to fill.
Just wait longer, as I sit here without one when we get more from mid to end of May.


----------



## italstal

Here are some better videos (taken with the side panel off and all other fans set as low as possible) of the weird buzzing sound I am now getting. Also, note that I think my phone starts to lower the background noise after the first second or two of the video. So, the first second of each video is a better representation of the actual noise level.

Here is the pump noise at ~2200 rpm




Here is the pump at ~3000 rpm




The pump ran fine without this problem from April 18th (when I installed a new pump from a RMA) through the morning of April 28th.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Your video are private so no one can watch them.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Your video are private so no one can watch them.


Haha oops, I could have sworn I set them to unlisted...anyways thanks for the heads up. They should now be viewable.


----------



## circeseye

it sounds like there crud stuck in the pump. maybe flush it??


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> it sounds like there crud stuck in the pump. maybe flush it??


When I replaced the first pump (was due to bad electronics on pump, not debris clogging), I ran all the pm2 liquid in the loop through a coffee filter (and actually didn't see any debris captured) before refilling my loop with the new pump. Would it need to be flushed more than that?


----------



## circeseye

no but just in case something in the loop caused the debris i defiantly would just go and flush the system out again just to be safe. just my 2cents
oh and make sure you really clean the impeller on the pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amtbr*
> 
> When a consumer looks at a list of cases deemed "Compatible" by the manufacturer, they are under the impression that the H220 is just that, compatible with their case, without additional modification or "what ifs." Its not even a matter of being spoon fed, its a matter of a representation being made by the manufacturer of the product, that we put this in X case and we deem the case to be compatible. Now Swiftech is backpeddaling on its claims of maintenance free for users of the 500R and possibly other cases in the future they have deemed "Compatible." If Swiftech was smart and/or cared about what its customers will do with the H220, it would alert uses of specific cases while it is compatible, you wont get the trouble free solution we advertise.
> 
> Your suggestion for a better case is a great solution and helpful, given that its very practical to get an entirely new case for the H220 and that the 500R is an excellent case in its on right.


I understand your frustration. I'm the one that took those pictures and compiled the compatibility list. Therefore this is my fault for not fully explaining this. When our kit is used in its stock form there shouldn't be any need to perform maintenance on it for a period of three (3) years. This is with it installed with the fill port facing up or down. The issue that we had though is that some of these kits weren't fully filled like they should have been. This just requires a very quick topping off with distilled water. Once this is done the three year maintenance free guarantee still stands. What I was trying to say is that if the loop is upgraded, and the fill port is left facing down, it may be necessary to top it off more than once every three years because of the extra heat load in the loop. This could cause the liquid to evaporate more rapidly. In its stock form this really shouldn't be an issue so long as the unit is completely full to begin with. I'm sorry for any confusion that I may have caused, and please understand that this kit was designed to be used in the widest variety of cases possible. Even with this being the case, there may be some issues that we were unable to foresee. I hope this helps to resolve this question and again, I'm sorry for any confusion that any previous statement that I made may have caused.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes it is AIO with expandability. It is still a custom kit. Its not a bogus claim. You dont really need to fill it, not unless you open the system up.
> There is no misleading from the 500R/600T. Blame Corsair for that, they are the ones to make the case specifically to use there H100/H100i and no one else.
> Swiftech cant make a unit that works with every case. That is your job to find the correct one that will suit your needs.


Many people confuse AIO and CLC, the NZXT, Thermaltake, Corsair and Zalman coolers are all CLC's, the H220 and future Swiftech units are all AIO's. These are not sealed units, and as with all water cooling solutions do not perform or behave equally in every possible mounting orientation. Mine will arrive today, and I have no idea if I'll be able to mount it with the reservoir facing up in my HAF XM, if I have to mount it facing downwards I'll deal with it and post pictures so others with my case will know what to expect.

What it comes down to is doing research before you purchase a CLC or AIO solution, because they are not created equal in either performance, level of maintenance, or compatibility. Even with a CLC you have to take fan spacing into consideration, the NZXT and Corsair units differ in this regard, and in some cases one will mount and the other will not.

TL;DR Research and due diligence are important!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> When I replaced the first pump (was due to bad electronics on pump, not debris clogging), I ran all the pm2 liquid in the loop through a coffee filter (and actually didn't see any debris captured) before refilling my loop with the new pump. Would it need to be flushed more than that?


Send me a PM if you need detailed instructions on how to clean the loop and the pump. It sounds to me like there may have been some debris left behind that's gotten stuck in your pump.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I understand your frustration. I'm the one that took those pictures and compiled the compatibility list. Therefore this is my fault for not fully explaining this. When our kit is used in its stock form there shouldn't be any need to perform maintenance on it for a period of three (3) years. This is with it installed with the fill port facing up or down. The issue that we had though is that some of these kits weren't fully filled like they should have been. This just requires a very quick topping off with distilled water. Once this is done the three year maintenance free guarantee still stands. What I was trying to say is that if the loop is upgraded, and the fill port is left facing down, it may be necessary to top it off more than once every three years because of the extra heat load in the loop. This could cause the liquid to evaporate more rapidly. In its stock form this really shouldn't be an issue so long as the unit is completely full to begin with. I'm sorry for any confusion that I may have caused, and please understand that this kit was designed to be used in the widest variety of cases possible. Even with this being the case, there may be some issues that we were unable to foresee. I hope this helps to resolve this question and again, I'm sorry for any confusion that any previous statement that I made may have caused.


Hello Bram,

Thank you for clarifying this with an honest response.









Edit: I wonder if it's still worthwhile to mod my case to allow the fillport up (in the cutout). Is there an easy way to remove coolant and put in new one without taking the rad out? Like perhaps use a pump system to remove old coolant out...is that effective enough to get it all out or would one really have to take the rad out and invert to drain?

Speed junkie, I am sticking with the 500R because my 2 blower-styled cards need the 200mm side intake which the Arc Midi doiesn't offer.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly27*
> 
> Has anyone put the H220 up front in an R4 like thishttp://www.sotechdesign.com.au/?attachment_id=588 ? I'm thinking of mounting it this way, would there be a problem with air getting into the pump? I want to go stock till I'm confident enough to add on. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> probably the worst way to mount it, but it's probably doable if you top the thing off and check it every few months. Honestly I would probably modify it and put a T in the intake line as Martin suggested previously to make your own air catch. or an in line reservoir.


Got my kit mounted in the front, absolutely no issues after 5-weeks, but I only run my system about 4-6 hours a day. Perhaps I'm on borrowed time, but have had a phenomenal unit and still getting awesome temps and no sounds at all. Just a whirring from the pump 1-2 seconds on start up.

I'll post as soon a something noticeable happens...which I hope won't be anytime soon









and all this chatter about GPU loops makes my wallet itch... LOL


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Hello Bram,
> 
> Thank you for clarifying this with an honest response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I wonder if it's still worthwhile to mod my case to allow the fillport up (in the cutout). Is there an easy way to remove coolant and put in new one without taking the rad out? Like perhaps use a pump system to remove old coolant out...is that effective enough to get it all out or would one really have to take the rad out and invert to drain?


The easiest and quickest way to drain it would be to remove the radiator. I really can't recommend using an external pump to drain it because we have no data on what issues this might cause to either the pump and/or radiator.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Hello Bram,
> 
> Thank you for clarifying this with an honest response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I wonder if it's still worthwhile to mod my case to allow the fillport up (in the cutout). Is there an easy way to remove coolant and put in new one without taking the rad out? Like perhaps use a pump system to remove old coolant out...is that effective enough to get it all out or would one really have to take the rad out and invert to drain?
> 
> Speed junkie, I am sticking with the 500R because my 2 blower-styled cards need the 200mm side intake which the Arc Midi doiesn't offer.


I will tell you that having a side fan is not going to reduce temps that much, with a blower style cards. I did the same thing on my HAF X case. Once I changed to front to rear, temps was lower on GPU and overall case.
With the Arc Midi, the top HDD cage removed have 140mm front fans will be enough to have direct airflow into case. Dual 140mm front and 140mm bottom will help with airflow.


----------



## jincuteguy

So is this H220 better than Corsair H100i and NZXT Kraken X60? Cause Im trying to decide which one to get. I have a 2600k on Asus Z77 Sabertooth


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So is this H220 better than Corsair H100i and NZXT Kraken X60? Cause Im trying to decide which one to get. I have a 2600k on Asus Z77 Sabertooth


Yes, the H220 is definitely better than any of the Asetek or CoolIT rebranded kits.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So is this H220 better than Corsair H100i and NZXT Kraken X60? Cause Im trying to decide which one to get. I have a 2600k on Asus Z77 Sabertooth


Much better. Which case you currently own?

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jincuteguy

I have the NZXT 810 Switch


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Much better. Which case you currently own?
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


What do you mean by much better? I thought most reviews of the H220 are a bit less than the NZXT Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i. Like the review from TimeToLive from Overclocker3D.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I have the NZXT 810 Switch


Great case. You won't have any problem with mounting it at the top. At the bottom won't be so easy. Being that the radiator is longer than a normal radiator you could run into issues with installing it at the bottom of the case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What do you mean by much better? I thought most reviews of the H220 are a bit less than the NZXT Kraken X60 and Corsair H100i. Like the review from TimeToLive from Overclocker3D.


I usually like TTL's reviews, but his review of our H220 was clearly biased toward favoring the H100. He's sponsored by Corsair so you can't really blame him though.


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Great to hear the rads for the H320 are ready to be thrown together at the very least. I am itching to get this damn H100 out of my system and be done with corsair parts aside from my case.


----------



## savagepagan

So, newegg is sold out of their batch of h220. Maybe I should just wait for the 360mm version.


----------



## TeeBlack

it wiill fit in your case with ease.


----------



## Skullwipe

My H220 arrived about an hour ago, any tips for installation prep? Also wondering if I should use the included TIM or the AS5 I have.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> My H220 arrived about an hour ago, any tips for installation prep? Also wondering if I should use the included TIM or the AS5 I have.


The TIM Mate II that we include with this kit is superior to AS5. It also has a much shorter cure time. It cures in only a few hours. It's also non-conductive. Installation prep should only consist of test fitting it inside of your case and then installing it. If you have any questions about this please watch the installation videos on our website.


----------



## Silvaire

I noticed that people were mentioning potential issues with having the radiator front-mounted because of it being below the pump in terms of some kind of air issue. I had planned to purchase the H220 for a Define R4 with both HDD cages removed and mounted in the front. Is this still feasible or not recommended? I have no experience with water cooling and am leery about jumping in without clear guidance that front-mounting to this case will work without too much detective work on my part.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The TIM Mate II that we include with this kit is superior to AS5. It also has a much shorter cure time. It cures in only a few hours. It's also non-conductive. Installation prep should only consist of test fitting it inside of your case and then installing it. If you have any questions about this please watch the installation videos on our website.


Thanks for the quick response. I can't find any information about mounting in a HAF XM, but I do know I'll have to remove the fans regardless of if I mount the radiator below or above the frame of the case. Really hoping I can mount it inside with the fill hole facing up.


----------



## justanoldman

In two separate H220 stock rads one of the swivel fitting developed a slow, small leak. I know these are fragile and you have to very careful when taking tubing off or putting it on so I was extra careful when handling them.

Anyone else come across this issue?


----------



## Philly27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Got my kit mounted in the front, absolutely no issues after 5-weeks, but I only run my system about 4-6 hours a day. Perhaps I'm on borrowed time, but have had a phenomenal unit and still getting awesome temps and no sounds at all. Just a whirring from the pump 1-2 seconds on start up.
> 
> I'll post as soon a something noticeable happens...which I hope won't be anytime soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and all this chatter about GPU loops makes my wallet itch... LOL


Thanks! great help! Nice build btw, I can't wait.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I noticed that people were mentioning potential issues with having the radiator front-mounted because of it being below the pump in terms of some kind of air issue. I had planned to purchase the H220 for a Define R4 with both HDD cages removed and mounted in the front. Is this still feasible or not recommended? I have no experience with water cooling and am leery about jumping in without clear guidance that front-mounting to this case will work without too much detective work on my part.


This is how I have mine installed no issues thus far.


----------



## jincuteguy

There will be a 360 Rad version that coming soon? hm... maybe i should just wait for that.


----------



## navit

Question for the Swiftech crew....I have my pump and fans on the splitter and running off my mobo, a Z77 Saberthooth, and its running @1700-1800 no matter what settings I use in the Bios. It will get up to about 2300 when running IBT and if I disable the settings in the bios it runs at full speed and that I understand. Thing is I cant seem to get it to run any lower, like say 1000-1200 or so.
Does this sound normal for this splitter? Please advise


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> There will be a 360 Rad version that coming soon? hm... maybe i should just wait for that.


It's the H320 if I'm not mistaken that everyone's been mentioning and that BramSLI1 has addressed previously.

I'm thinking it would be pretty nice for Swiftech to sell the block/pump combo by itself for under $100, they'll have plenty of buyers I reckon.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Question for the Swiftech crew....I have my pump and fans on the splitter and running off my mobo, a Z77 Saberthooth, and its running @1700-1800 no matter what settings I use in the Bios. It will get up to about 2300 when running IBT and if I disable the settings in the bios it runs at full speed and that I understand. Thing is I cant seem to get it to run any lower, like say 1000-1200 or so.
> Does this sound normal for this splitter? Please advise


Pump min is 1300 I believe, and what are your temps when running IBT? It maybe that it is just not getting hot enough to increase the full 3000 rpms.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> In two separate H220 stock rads one of the swivel fitting developed a slow, small leak. I know these are fragile and you have to very careful when taking tubing off or putting it on so I was extra careful when handling them.
> 
> Anyone else come across this issue?


You gotta be kidding me!!!!!!


----------



## jincuteguy

Dang I didn't know Swiftech located in Long beach, CA. Im in San diego about 1h drive away.


----------



## Skullwipe

Not able to upload the pictures atm, but it looks like the HAF XM is a no go for the H220. Mounting the radiator inside is not possible due to the 8 pin power connector on my UD5H, regardless of which way the radiator faces. The rear 140mm fan is also an issue if the hoses are towards the back, but replacing it with a 120mm would solve that small issue. Due to the design of the case you can only mount the radiator with the hoses facing towards the back of the case, if you want the fill port facing upwards.



The fill caps on this radiator are where the H220 fill cap comes up, and as you can see, there's no matching opening on the other end of the case. So even if I mount it outside facing downwards, there's no place for the hoses to go. If I mount it outside facing up, the extra height from the fill cap itself prevents the top from being able to be put back on.

Was wanting a new case anyway, but had really hoped this would work.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Pump min is 1300 I believe, and what are your temps when running IBT? It maybe that it is just not getting hot enough to increase the full 3000 rpms.


Oh I thought it was 1200, ok. My temps are just fine on IBT, hottest core today has been 74c with the pump getting up to 2300 or so.
I am just cant seem to get it below 1700 atm.


----------



## ez12a

1200 is the minimum. It's probably due to the fan speed curve built into your BIOS. Try using speedfan to change your fan speeds. You may need to go into Options and switch the individual headers to PWM control if the software doesnt work right away.

To do this > Speed fan > Configure > Advanced Tab > In drop down menu, select your on board Fan Controller (ex: some asus boards use Nuvoton) > change the value for your fan headers (the Property name varies between manufacturers) to Manual.

Ex: my 3 adjustable PWM/Voltage headers are labeled PWM 1, PWM 2, and PWM 3 in SpeedFan . Changing all their values to Manual gives me full control.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 1200 is the minimum. It's probably due to the fan speed curve built into your BIOS. Try using speedfan to change your fan speeds. You may need to go into Options and switch the individual headers to PWM control if the software doesnt work right away.
> 
> To do this > Speed fan > Configure > Advanced Tab > In drop down menu, select your on board Fan Controller (ex: some asus boards use Nuvoton) > change the value for your fan headers (the Property name varies between manufacturers) to Manual.
> 
> Ex: my 3 adjustable PWM/Voltage headers are labeled PWM 1, PWM 2, and PWM 3 in SpeedFan . Changing all their values to Manual gives me full control.


Cool that got it to 1200 but it stayed there, lol, I am a little new to speed fan. How do I set a curve?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Not able to upload the pictures atm, but it looks like the HAF XM is a no go for the H220. Mounting the radiator inside is not possible due to the 8 pin power connector on my UD5H, regardless of which way the radiator faces. The rear 140mm fan is also an issue if the hoses are towards the back, but replacing it with a 120mm would solve that small issue. Due to the design of the case you can only mount the radiator with the hoses facing towards the back of the case, if you want the fill port facing upwards.
> 
> The fill caps on this radiator are where the H220 fill cap comes up, and as you can see, there's no matching opening on the other end of the case. So even if I mount it outside facing downwards, there's no place for the hoses to go. If I mount it outside facing up, the extra height from the fill cap itself prevents the top from being able to be put back on.
> 
> Was wanting a new case anyway, but had really hoped this would work.


A rear fan is really not needed.
Can you mount direct under and fans on top. The space in there, cant you for the res through there?
If you cant, slide it closer to the front of the case.


If you want a new case, Fractal Arc Midi R2.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> A rear fan is really not needed.
> Can you mount direct under and fans on top. The space in there, cant you for the res through there?
> If you cant, slide it closer to the front of the case.
> 
> 
> If you want a new case, Fractal Arc Midi R2.


That spot is exactly where the res fits, it's like a glove. BUT, my 8pin power cable is the real issue with that orientation. Going to look at it again in a couple of minutes, just ran to Microcenter and picked up an NZXT sleeved 8 pin extension, should be able to contort it a bit more.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Cool that got it to 1200 but it stayed there, lol, I am a little new to speed fan. How do I set a curve?


sweet, so it works.

Now you need to set desired and "max" temperatures. Desired should really be your max, as your fans will be at full speed by the time it reaches that temperature.

Set these in the Temperatures Tab. You can set the same temps for all of your cores and GPU separately if you have that in the loop as well.

If you expand the device (ex; GPU) you will see that you can associate it with a fan. That fan will then scale with temps according to that device. Play around with it to see which fans you want changing with which device. My GPU and Cores are all linked to the same fans so they all go change according to temp changes since they all share the same water.

In the Speeds tab, you can set max and minimum speeds. Play around with these to see what the percentage in speedfan equates to in terms of actual RPM. My percentages are set so that all my fans spin at a minimum of 1k RPM. It rests at 1k at idle as well. PWM fans may have a minimum speed, but voltage fans can actually be shut off if you really want that silence (watch out for water temps). Voltage fans need to be connected to a 3 pin header.

When you're all done, hit OK and check the box for Automatic fan control in the main Speedfan window.

If Speedfna's built in curves dont work for you, you can also adjust that in SpeedFan's options under Fan Control tab. I personally havent bothered with this since it seems fine for me.

My speedfan screenshot:


----------



## navit

Cool thanks


----------



## Skullwipe

Alright! So glad I have a Microcenter nearby, that 8pin extension got the job done. All I have to do now is mount the block, and figure out how to fit my GPU in with those hoses in the way.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Alright! So glad I have a Microcenter nearby, that 8pin extension got the job done. All I have to do now is mount the block, and figure out how to fit my GPU in with those hoses in the way.


Sweet!









I wish I had a microcenter nearby. Then again I'd never have any monies if that were the case lol.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I noticed that people were mentioning potential issues with having the radiator front-mounted because of it being below the pump in terms of some kind of air issue. I had planned to purchase the H220 for a Define R4 with both HDD cages removed and mounted in the front. Is this still feasible or not recommended? I have no experience with water cooling and am leery about jumping in without clear guidance that front-mounting to this case will work without too much detective work on my part.


i say if you just using as is go ahead and mount it in the front. shouldnt be a problem. if you adding on to it just bleed it outside of the case to get the bubbles out and then install it. someone correct me if im wrong.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Ok, I can't for the life of me line up any of the holes in my Arc Midi R2 with the holes in the H220's fans. I just spent 30 minutes turning the H220 in every direction.

I sincerely hope I don't need to give up my rear fan... anyone have a photo showing which holes I'm supposed to use in this damn case to ensure the reservoir points upward and that allows for more than two screws to line up?


----------



## TeeBlack

if it should fit no prob but if you having trouble why not try the front of the case?


----------



## TeeBlack

sorry damn phone keep double posting.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> if it should fit no prob but if you having trouble why not try the front of the case?


The top is my only option, as the front is already being used by two 120mm rads for the gpu's that won't fit up top.

I have seen the h220 mounted in the top of this case a bunch of times, so the holes have to line up somehow... uhg


----------



## paleh0rse14

Nevermind, got it... had to put a little extra pressure on one of the tubes to squeeze it into the optical drive bay area. All eight screws line up now.

Game on!


----------



## Sickened1

Welp, my pump just failed. Glad i kept my H70 around incase this happened. Very disappointed that it didn't even last a whole month.


----------



## TheGovernment

I just got my second unit from New Egg today, installed the H220 with AX-4 in my switch 810 case. 3930K - 1.32v @ 4.45 ghz and prime 95 hottest is 70c. Man that sucks! my D14's highest temp was 59c with the exact same everything.








Also when the pump rev's up, the gurgling water noise is pretty loud, my first unit is very quite and has good temp's. My room temp is 19c.
I think I'm gonna pop off the block and re-do the TIM just in case, although I really know thats not the issue.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had a microcenter nearby. Then again I'd never have any monies if that were the case lol.


I hear ya! My plan was to go buy a Phantom 630 tomorrow if I couldn't make this fit...I still might.

I'll post some build pics tomorrow so others with the HAF XM know what to expect, there's really only one way it can be mounted and it fits like a glove...all be it a half size too small.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sickened1*
> 
> Welp, my pump just failed. Glad i kept my H70 around incase this happened. Very disappointed that it didn't even last a whole month.


Sending you a PM. I'm at home right now, but I'll tackle this as soon as I get into work in the morning. Don't worry, we'll take care of you.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

paleh0rse14, How are you enjoying the Midi Arc R2 case? Better than you expected?
Good that all is going good for you and working well.
Show us some pics.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I just got my second unit from New Egg today, installed the H220 with AX-4 in my switch 810 case. 3930K - 1.32v @ 4.45 ghz and prime 95 hottest is 70c. Man that sucks! my D14's highest temp was 59c with the exact same everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also when the pump rev's up, the gurgling water noise is pretty loud, my first unit is very quite and has good temp's. My room temp is 19c.
> I think I'm gonna pop off the block and re-do the TIM just in case, although I really know thats not the issue.


Did you order yours when they were in stock around the 19th? I ordered mine the 19th and some other people I know also ordered theirs from that same shipment. Out of those units all of them had the gurgling noise you are speaking of. It seems a lot of the units (possibly the whole batch) have pretty low coolant in them and you should top it off with distilled water so it functions better.


----------



## TheGovernment

ya it shipped out on the 22. I'll take a look tomorrow after work. Thanks for the info.


----------



## TeeBlack

i still have my old coolers just in case of anything as well.


----------



## Skullwipe

Up and running, ran the loop for about 20 minutes using P95 and only needed to add about 3 CC's of distilled to top it off. Seeing temps about 10c cooler than my Hyper 612 under load, 3570k @ 4.3 GHZ Vcore of 1.18v topping out around 64c, around 20c ambient temp.

Noticing an intermittent "chirp" like sound, trying to narrow down its source. It's either the pump, or the 200mm fan I moved to the side panel.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Up and running, ran the loop for about 20 minutes using P95 and only needed to add about 3 CC's of distilled to top it off. Seeing temps about 10c cooler than my Hyper 612 under load, 3570k @ 4.3 GHZ Vcore of 1.18v topping out around 64c, around 20c ambient temp.
> 
> Noticing an intermittent "chirp" like sound, trying to narrow down its source. It's either the pump, or the 200mm fan I moved to the side panel.


Hey since you have the HAF XM do you think it would be possible to mount the radiator inside the top cover where the 200mm fans come pre-installed, and then put 2x200m fans mounted on the inside of the case exhausting air through the radiator and out the top?


----------



## paleh0rse14

ok, I am going to let Prime95 Small FFT run overnight, but I can't say that I'm real happy with the max temps I'm seeing right now.

*3570k @ 4.3, 1.29V, Ambient: 21.5C*: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 78, 73, 71.

What are you guys seeing for temps? Are mine higher than average when using the stock H220? I may need to re-apply the thermal paste, or something... hmm


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> paleh0rse14, How are you enjoying the Midi Arc R2 case? Better than you expected?
> Good that all is going good for you and working well.
> Show us some pics.


I love the case, it's awesome! The install was cake and the cable management is easy as hell. The amount of room in this little case is simply amazing.

That said, I still have some work to do to nail down the cooling (see my last post above).

I'll be sure to post some pics tomorrow after I get some sleep...


----------



## Semper Fidelis

I managed to get a picture with my phone of what I was talking about with the screws. Quality is pretty bad but hopefully it shows what I was talking about with the screw length issue. The long screws already start to bend the fins without even being screwed in all the way. Which makes me curious how some people said they used these included screws to mount a second set of fans on the radiator for push/pull.


----------



## ez12a

long screws are designed to go through a case panel and then go through to the rad? I actually found the long screws too short with anti vibration pads in place (built into the 600t). How thick is that flange for the fan? the short screws look like it's barely getting through to the other side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> ok, I am going to let Prime95 Small FFT run overnight, but I can't say that I'm real happy with the max temps I'm seeing right now.
> 
> *3570k @ 4.3, 1.29V, Ambient: 21.5C*: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 78, 73, 71.
> 
> What are you guys seeing for temps? Are mine higher than average when using the stock H220? I may need to re-apply the thermal paste, or something... hmm


My 2700k 4.5GHz at 1.38V doesnt get past 70C with the pump and GTs maxed out. Not a direct comparison since the TIM under the IHS will always result in higher temps than SB chips. What were you getting before with your old cooler?


----------



## ez12a

double psot.


----------



## paleh0rse14

I was getting roughly the same core temps with my CM212 and two fans doing push/pull -- so I'm basically seeing zero improvement after switching to the h220.









I might try to reapply the paste tonight. I'm not looking forward to that, though, since mounting this thing on that POS plastic rear bracket took me FOREVER! lol


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> long screws are designed to go through a case panel and then go through to the rad? I actually found the long screws too short with anti vibration pads in place (built into the 600t). How thick is that flange for the fan? the short screws look like it's barely getting through to the other side.
> My 2700k 4.5GHz at 1.38V doesnt get past 70C with the pump and GTs maxed out. Not a direct comparison since the TIM under the IHS will always result in higher temps than SB chips. What were you getting before with your old cooler?


Yeah I had to use the little plastic washers that came with the 2011 screws and I still managed to slightly bend the fins on the radiator.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Yeah I had to use the little plastic washers that came with the 2011 screws and I still managed to slightly bend the fins on the radiator.


I can confirm I had to use rather thick washers to prevent screw to fin contact. I'm used to this discrepancy from the H100, the screws were even longer!


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I can confirm I had to use rather thick washers to prevent screw to fin contact. I'm used to this discrepancy from the H100, the screws were even longer!


haha probably because they have their own cases in mind. I had to use my Corsair H50 screws to mount the h220 rad









that said, nothing washers or a dremel cant fix.


----------



## cravinmild

Just checking Ncix site for Canada and the H220 is been moved back to the end of may. I was really hoping to place an order today because my h100 crapped out the week ago. I don't know how much longer I can wait


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone, when it comes to installing a water block such as one seen on the h220 and the h100i, is it ok if the blocks slides a little bit before you screw it on, as long as you don't lift the block up?

Thank you everyone.


----------



## kevindd992002

Is it already confirmed if the H220 fits the HAF922 case with my board?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is it already confirmed if the H220 fits the HAF922 case with my board?


\

Unfortunately we have yet to receive this case from Cooler Master for testing. Hopefully someone here on this forum can answer that for you.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> \
> 
> Unfortunately we have yet to receive this case from Cooler Master for testing. Hopefully someone here on this forum can answer that for you.


But that was months ago when CM sent you the case, right?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone, when it comes to installing a water block such as one seen on the h220 and the h100i, is it ok if the blocks slides a little bit before you screw it on, as long as you don't lift the block up?
> 
> Thank you everyone.


If I were you I would just reapply my thermal paste. There is a possibility that it may have slid off to one particular side and therefore you won't get the proper contact that you need to cool your chip.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> long screws are designed to go through a case panel and then go through to the rad? I actually found the long screws too short with anti vibration pads in place (built into the 600t).


the long screws were just BARELY long enough for the 500R (which also had anti-vibrating washers)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But that was months ago when CM sent you the case, right?


They were supposed to send us one, but they never did and I haven't heard anything back from them about it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If I were you I would just reapply my thermal paste. There is a possibility that it may have slid off to one particular side and therefore you won't get the proper contact that you need to cool your chip.


I find it near impossible to keep the block still as the tubes are always pulling on the block.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Hey since you have the HAF XM do you think it would be possible to mount the radiator inside the top cover where the 200mm fans come pre-installed, and then put 2x200m fans mounted on the inside of the case exhausting air through the radiator and out the top?


The thickness of the fill cap prevents the fan cover from sitting level, could mod the cover with very little effort though, would only need to shave a MM or so off the plastic honeycomb.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I find it near impossible to keep the block still as the tubes are always pulling on the block.


If you can keep the block pretty much centered during this process you should be OK. A little smearing isn't going to hurt anything as long as the paste doesn't all end up on one side. It's going smear a little when it spreads anyway.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone, when it comes to installing a water block such as one seen on the h220 and the h100i, is it ok if the blocks slides a little bit before you screw it on, as long as you don't lift the block up?
> 
> Thank you everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> If I were you I would just reapply my thermal paste. There is a possibility that it may have slid off to one particular side and therefore you won't get the proper contact that you need to cool your chip.
Click to expand...

Have you guys considered designing and including a more secure rear bracket? I honestly don't think it's possible to install the H220 block WITHOUT it sliding all over the damn place -- since you essentially have to install it with one hand while doing some contortionist magic to reach around the back of the motherboard with the other hand to hold the bracket in place. Those tiny little stickers on the plastic bracket don't hold it in place AT ALL when you push down with the mounting screws from the front side.

Honestly, besides my seemingly poor thermal performance -- which I think is a result of the mounting issues -- that's my only complaint so far. I have no idea how I'm going to re-install this thing without seriously messing up the TIM every time...


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Have you guys considered designing and including a more secure rear bracket? I honestly don't think it's possible to install the H220 block WITHOUT it sliding all over the damn place -- since you essentially have to install it with one hand while doing some contortionist magic to reach around the back of the motherboard with the other hand to hold the bracket in place. Those tiny little stickers on the plastic bracket don't hold it in place AT ALL when you push down on the mounting screws from the front side.
> 
> Honestly, besides my seemingly poor thermal performance, that's my only complaint so far. I have no idea how I'm going to re-install this thing without messing up the TIM every time...


The retaining bracket is really my only complaint as well. Once I realized how it mounted I gave up on the idea of using the adhesive pads, it pretty much requires three hands to keep pressure on the block, line up the back plate and engage the screws. It might be less of an issue in cases with more room between the radiator and the CPU socket.


----------



## ez12a

what i do is have a folded cloth or something soft under the mobo to hold the bracket in place. Painters tape would probably work even better.

or slide the case off the table enough to get a hand on the underside. It's easier if you lay the case down instead of doing it upright.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Yeah I had to use the little plastic washers that came with the 2011 screws and I still managed to slightly bend the fins on the radiator.


Bending the fins under those screws will have no effect on the cooling performance, and it will not cause the radiator to leak. I have been in the radiator business for 25 years!


----------



## AlDyer

I have pretty poor thermal performance. Im on AM3+. Any ideas? I don't know what is wrong honestly. Is there some weird rules with this? I just installed it. Should I wait for paste to cure or whats wrong?

EDIT: Not air bubbles btw


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you can keep the block pretty much centered during this process you should be OK. A little smearing isn't going to hurt anything as long as the paste doesn't all end up on one side. It's going smear a little when it spreads anyway.


Well, it only moved around a little bit here and there, but only slightly. I never moved the block around by sliding it everywhere and I never lifted the block up. Even when it comes to installing a heat sink, they tend to slide a bit in every direction before you latch it down.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what i do is have a folded cloth or something soft under the mobo to hold the bracket in place. Painters tape would probably work even better.
> 
> or slide the case off the table enough to get a hand on the underside. It's easier if you lay the case down instead of doing it upright.


When I re-do mine tonight, I'm going to try that method... with one twist: I'm going to ask my wife to sit under the table and press up on the bracket.

For the record, any install that requires me to ask my wife for help is a fail... Bryan, please re-design the bracket! lol


----------



## cravinmild

^^^^ Send it to me I'll figure it out for you ^^^


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what i do is have a folded cloth or something soft under the mobo to hold the bracket in place. Painters tape would probably work even better.
> 
> or slide the case off the table enough to get a hand on the underside. It's easier if you lay the case down instead of doing it upright.


Agreed. It gets easier the more times you do it as well. The last time I actually lined it up best I could and them thumb screwed one side until I could feel it catch. Definitively a learning curve to it.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> ^^^^ Send it to me I'll figure it out for you ^^^


I'd rather just send you my wife and find a new helper... will that work too?


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what i do is have a folded cloth or something soft under the mobo to hold the bracket in place. Painters tape would probably work even better.
> 
> or slide the case off the table enough to get a hand on the underside. It's easier if you lay the case down instead of doing it upright.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. It gets easier the more times you do it as well. The last time I actually lined it up best I could and them thumb screwed one side until I could feel it catch. Definitively a learning curve to it.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't be that way, though. My $25 CM212 had an amazing metal mounting system, so why does my $140 WC kit have a lousy piece of plastic that won't stay in place?

It's a valid complaint, and something that they could easily address in Rev2.


----------



## AlDyer

So my core temp goes up to 53 C @ 1.375v 4.5 GHz and socket goes up to 68 C with my FX 8150 cooled by a H220? Is this good or bad? It was only ONE run on normal IBT


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> So my core temp goes up to 53 C @ 1.375v 4.5 GHz and socket goes up to 68 C with my FX 8150 cooled by a H220? Is this good or bad? It was only ONE run on normal IBT


I would say those temps look very good!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Agreed. It gets easier the more times you do it as well. The last time I actually lined it up best I could and them thumb screwed one side until I could feel it catch. Definitively a learning curve to it.


It's also easier because the back plate nuts have been locked into their proper position from the first mounting. I'm only seeing a 4-5c difference from my old Hyper 612 PWM, so I may do a fresh mount and see if that helps.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I would say those temps look very good!


I am not so sure about that, because you should remember that this is AMD, but im not sure what this thing is capable of.. Im just a bit worried, because many people go up to 1.6 volts and 5 GHz on water, stable. And their temps don't go over 61 C


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what i do is have a folded cloth or something soft under the mobo to hold the bracket in place. Painters tape would probably work even better.
> 
> or slide the case off the table enough to get a hand on the underside. It's easier if you lay the case down instead of doing it upright.


I use painters tape when I install a new CPU water block as well. It works wonders for this kind of application.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I use painters tape when I install a new CPU water block as well. It works wonders for this kind of application.


Care to assist me once again? Im getting high temps now *sigh*

I followed every single bit of instruction, but I still get high temps. I don't really think its the TIM either, because it was exactly the same amount as on my 212 EVO, and the EVO performed quite decently...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> So my core temp goes up to 53 C @ 1.375v 4.5 GHz and socket goes up to 68 C with my FX 8150 cooled by a H220? Is this good or bad? It was only ONE run on normal IBT


The 8150 does tend to be a rather hot running chip. Those temperatures look really good based on others that I've seen.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> It's also easier because the back plate nuts have been locked into their proper position from the first mounting. I'm only seeing a 4-5c difference from my old Hyper 612 PWM, so I may do a fresh mount and see if that helps.


after looking up the 612, it's a pretty good cooler, trailing the d14 by only 3 deg in Overclocker's club review. 240mm AIOs (h220, h100i, etc.) are only marginally better than the D14. Maybe 5C improvement isnt necessarily bad, but do see what a remount would do.

TomsHardware review puts the H100i 5C better than the D14.

but like the D14, air coolers seem to be reaching their maximum size.


----------



## AlDyer

Alright, thanks for relieving info...







'

EDIT: So the FX x3xx (PD) runs cooler then? I smell upgrade time (hehe) Either I will get 8320 or Steamroller


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Care to assist me once again? Im getting high temps now *sigh*
> 
> I followed every single bit of instruction, but I still get high temps. I don't really think its the TIM either, because it was exactly the same amount as on my 212 EVO, and the EVO performed quite decently...


What were your temps like when you were using your air cooler? If your performance is worse with our H220 then there is an issue. It could also be that you just lost out on the silicone lottery. Not all processors are the same and it could be that yours just runs a bit hotter than others. Like I said though, your temperatures don't look that bad from what I've seen. I also don't know what your ambient temperature though is either.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Care to assist me once again? Im getting high temps now *sigh*
> 
> I followed every single bit of instruction, but I still get high temps. I don't really think its the TIM either, because it was exactly the same amount as on my 212 EVO, and the EVO performed quite decently...
> 
> 
> 
> What were your temps like when you were using your air cooler? If your performance is worse with our H220 then there is an issue. It could also be that you just lost out on the silicone lottery. Not all processors are the same and it could be that yours just runs a bit hotter than others. Like I said though, your temperatures don't look that bad from what I've seen. I also don't know what your ambient temperature though is either.
Click to expand...

Did you see my temps and questions a page or so back?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Have you guys considered designing and including a more secure rear bracket? I honestly don't think it's possible to install the H220 block WITHOUT it sliding all over the damn place -- since you essentially have to install it with one hand while doing some contortionist magic to reach around the back of the motherboard with the other hand to hold the bracket in place. Those tiny little stickers on the plastic bracket don't hold it in place AT ALL when you push down with the mounting screws from the front side.
> 
> Honestly, besides my seemingly poor thermal performance -- which I think is a result of the mounting issues -- that's my only complaint so far. I have no idea how I'm going to re-install this thing without seriously messing up the TIM every time...


Redesigning the back plate will be up to Gabe and Stephen. They're the engineers. I'm just a Customer Support Rep. I'll let you know if this is something that they'll consider.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Redesigning the back plate will be up to Gabe and Stephen. They're the engineers. I'm just a Customer Support Rep. I'll let you know if this is something that they'll consider.


Fair enough! I'm seeing some poor core temps on my 3570k @ 4.3 GHz -- as high as 78C at load -- so I'm going to try to reapply the paste tonight. Since my temps were essentially the exact same with just my CM212 EVO HSF, I really need to figure out how to get these lower.

Do you happen to have any temperature stats for this CPU using only your stock H220 kit (2 Helix fans)?


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Fair enough! I'm seeing some poor core temps on my 3570k @ 4.3 GHz -- as high as 78C at load -- so I'm going to try to reapply the paste tonight. Since my temps were essentially the exact same with just my CM212 EVO HSF, I really need to figure out how to get these lower.
> 
> Do you happen to have any temperature stats for this CPU using only your stock H220 kit (2 Helix fans)?


1st page has what you are looking for.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Fair enough! I'm seeing some poor core temps on my 3570k @ 4.3 GHz -- as high as 78C at load -- so I'm going to try to reapply the paste tonight. Since my temps were essentially the exact same with just my CM212 EVO HSF, I really need to figure out how to get these lower.
> 
> Do you happen to have any temperature stats for this CPU using only your stock H220 kit (2 Helix fans)?


No, I don't have any data on that processor being used with our stock kit. From my understanding though that particular chip is notoriously difficult to cool. I think it has something to do with the thermal paste between the IHS and chip itself. I'm running an AMD processor in my home rig so I really don't know that much about Intel's chips. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.


----------



## AlDyer

Temps are lower so I guess this chip is not as good as the x8xx series...

EDIT: Ambients vary quite a bit, but maybe 24 C at max. Now it is colder tho, because I have my window open








Also I am in no way dissappointed, I was just checking. Now I need to start overclocking some more 4.7 GHz atm


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Fair enough! I'm seeing some poor core temps on my 3570k @ 4.3 GHz -- as high as 78C at load -- so I'm going to try to reapply the paste tonight. Since my temps were essentially the exact same with just my CM212 EVO HSF, I really need to figure out how to get these lower.
> 
> Do you happen to have any temperature stats for this CPU using only your stock H220 kit (2 Helix fans)?


What's your Vcore at? I just happen to be running a 3570k @ 4.3 Ghz as well. I'm using a 1.188 Vcore droop can go as low as 1.176, and after 5 hours of P95 blend my hottest core hit 73c with a 20c-23c ambient.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, I don't have any data on that processor being used with our stock kit. From my understanding though that particular chip is notoriously difficult to cool. I think it has something to do with the thermal paste between the IHS and chip itself. I'm running an AMD processor in my home rig so I really don't know that much about Intel's chips. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.


Intel used a traditional TIM to interface the IHS and the Die in the 3570k. Many people report up to a 10c all the way up to a 20c drop in temps after delidding and applying Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.


----------



## AlDyer

There is a pic of my rig. I know I don't have any fancy sleevings, (yet) but not too bad


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> What's your Vcore at? I just happen to be running a 3570k @ 4.3 Ghz as well. I'm using a 1.188 Vcore droop can go as low as 1.176, and after 5 hours of P95 blend my hottest core hit 73c with a 20c-23c ambient.


My ambient temps are about the same, with 1.29V at load. My hottest core hit 79C overnight. Again, this is identical to my highest core temps using the CM212 EVO, which is why I'm concerned. It's tough to justify the additional $110 if I end up with the same results and no additional headroom for OC'ing to 4.4 and beyond.
Quote:


> Intel used a traditional TIM to interface the IHS and the Die in the 3570k. Many people report up to a 10c all the way up to a 20c drop in temps after delidding and applying Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.


That entire de-lidding process freaks me out in a similar way that removing the AG coating on a monitor freaks me out. LOLI

That said, I may still do it someday, but only as a last resort if/when I can't get acceptable temps with just water...


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> My ambient temps are about the same, with 1.29V at load. My hottest core hit 79C overnight. Again, this is identical to my highest core temps using the CM212 EVO, which is why I'm concerned. It's tough to justify the additional $110 if I end up with the same results and no additional headroom for OC'ing to 4.4 and beyond.
> That entire de-lidding process freaks me out in a similar way that removing the AG coating on a monitor freaks me out. LOLI
> 
> That said, I may still do it someday, but only as a last resort if/when I can't get acceptable temps with just water...


I de-lidded (hammer and vice method) my 3570k about two weeks ago with CL Ultra and saw around 15-23c improvement. Pretty simple process and I was very nervous when I started.


----------



## justanoldman

There is only one way to get really good temps with a 3570k or 3770k. You need to delid to reduce the space between the IHS and die which Intel messed up with excessive use of glue. It is not about replacing the TIM, but more about getting the IHS to make good contact with the die.

Once you delid and use a liquid metal TIM on the die you should get a 15 to 25c temp drop.

If you guys are wondering about your temps then you if you look at a lot of reviews you should get a better idea. The H100i has been around long enough to be included in the graphs of most reviews, and the H220 will cool your cpu within a few c of an H100i.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> My ambient temps are about the same, with 1.29V at load. My hottest core hit 79C overnight. Again, this is identical to my highest core temps using the CM212 EVO, which is why I'm concerned. It's tough to justify the additional $110 if I end up with the same results and no additional headroom for OC'ing to 4.4 and beyond.


My Vcore at 1.188 is already higher than most need to hit 4.3 Ghz, lower your Vcore by 0.05v and run P95 or IBT for 15 minutes to check short term stability. Continue until it fails, then raise your Vcore by 0.01v until you're stable for 15 minutes, from there shoot for 1 hour stability, still increasing by 0.01v if it fails. After that it's time to stability test it over night.

Ninja Edit: My CPU has a messed up memory controller, so even at stock speeds I have to run at 1.160v core just to be stable. Just can't afford to RMA atm.


----------



## justanoldman

My H220 temp data listed below:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back

5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans

Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690

2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing

With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room

Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Redesigning the back plate will be up to Gabe and Stephen. They're the engineers. I'm just a Customer Support Rep. I'll let you know if this is something that they'll consider.


Be sure and share with them you have to use painters tape! I'll second the recommendation on the CM 212 backplate design - they should take a look at it. It went together trivially.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> My H220 temp data listed below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
> Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back
> 
> 5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans
> 
> Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690
> 
> 2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing
> 
> With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
> 68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room
> 
> Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


And this is why I'm so tempted to Delid.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> And this is why I'm so tempted to Delid.


You and me both...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> Be sure and share with them you have to use painters tape! I'll second the recommendation on the CM 212 backplate design - they should take a look at it. It went together trivially.


I don't have an H220. I'm using an Apogee HD and with just about every air cooler or water block that I've had I've had to use painters tape to hold the back plate in place.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> I am not so sure about that, because you should remember that this is AMD, but im not sure what this thing is capable of.. Im just a bit worried, because many people go up to 1.6 volts and 5 GHz on water, stable. And their temps don't go over 61 C


Hate to say it, but everyone telling you to delid are 100% correct. It simply doesn't matter how good your on IHS cooling is when you have bad contact between die and IHS. This plagues all IB chips and if you have a particularly bad gap, you won't see good temperatures until you take the top off. I have a 1.328v 4.8ghz 3770k, and that chip will hit 96C when folding, and it has nothing to do with my H220 and MCR-220 and everything to do with a bad connection to the top.

When I have time the top will be coming off my chip, probably when my z77e-ITX RMA replacement comes back. You just need to do it, or except high temperatures.... since you bought the H220 to get better temps.. the bad news is simply that you'll need a 2500k or to delid your 3570k.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Are you saying that it could be completely possible to see no improvement AT ALL when switching from a CM212 to the H220? Interesting...


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't have an H220. I'm using an Apogee HD and with just about every air cooler or water block that I've had I've had to use painters tape to hold the back plate in place.


The problem arises from the pre assembly of the H220, you have to fight the force of the hoses in order to center and mount the block.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Hate to say it, but everyone telling you to delid are 100% correct. It simply doesn't matter how good your on IHS cooling is when you have bad contact between die and IHS. This plagues all IB chips and if you have a particularly bad gap, you won't see good temperatures until you take the top off. I have a 1.328v 4.8ghz 3770k, and that chip will hit 96C when folding, and it has nothing to do with my H220 and MCR-220 and everything to do with a bad connection to the top.
> 
> When I have time the top will be coming off my chip, probably when my z77e-ITX RMA replacement comes back. You just need to do it, or except high temperatures.... since you bought the H220 to get better temps.. the bad news is simply that you'll need a 2500k or to delid your 3570k.


Going to be RMAing my 3570k, if the new one has better contact I may not delid, if it doesn't I'm about 75% certain I'll go for it.


----------



## Skullwipe

Here's my HAF XM - Z77X-UD5H Installation


http://imgur.com/9t3Wo

.


----------



## mastahg

When my new tim comes in, gonna see if the mounting system from corsair works http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Here's my HAF XM - Z77X-UD5H Installation
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/9t3Wo
> 
> .


That slot for the res fits perfect.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> When my new tim comes in, gonna see if the mounting system from corsair works http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html


It's pretty much identical. The issue may be the thread pitch and screw size.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't have an H220. I'm using an Apogee HD and with just about every air cooler or water block that I've had I've had to use painters tape to hold the back plate in place.


As I said, take a look at the back plates for a CM 212, or a TRUE. They basically bolt the back plate on the board, and then the top screw for the plate becomes the bolt for the CPU cooler.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> As I said, take a look at the back plates for a CM 212, or a TRUE. They basically bolt the back plate on the board, and then the top screw for the plate becomes the bolt for the CPU cooler.


I don't have any experience with those coolers, but it would appear that they might be easier to install. Like I said though, using painters tape works just fine for me and I've been using it without issue for some time now. I'll pass this on to Gabe and Stephen, but I would think that the added cost of those mounting systems just won't be justifiable. That's just my opinion though.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I use painters tape when I install a new CPU water block as well. It works wonders for this kind of application.


I was gonna suggest this... I use painters tape for everything... take apart waterblock, cover the polished base with painters tape... installing H220 with the case sideways, tape the fans to the case until you can thread a few screws... leaves no residue it's the modders version of ductape =D


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Are you saying that it could be completely possible to see no improvement AT ALL when switching from a CM212 to the H220? Interesting...


No one is saying that! If your not seeing an improvement, there is something wrong. It's as simple as that. What the problem is, I'm not sure. A bad mount, air in the system, not enough coolant in the system, fans not spinning at right speed. I don't know, but the H220 definitely outperforms the CM212!


----------



## Skullwipe

Trying to get speedfan configured, but when I select the proper Chip in the advanced tab, there's no options in the drop down menu. Using a Z77X-UD5H.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't have any experience with those coolers, but it would appear that they might be easier to install. Like I said though, using painters tape works just fine for me and I've been using it without issue for some time now. I'll pass this on to Gabe and Stephen, but I would think that the added cost of those mounting systems just won't be justifiable. That's just my opinion though.


Just a reminder that the CM Hyper 212+ retails for $29.99 with the bracket, so I suspect the cost of goods isn't that high (although recognizing that CM's volume is certainly a lot higher.)

Of course, another equally fine solution would be to ditch those little adhesive blocks, and in the documentation just tell people to use painter tape to hold it in place!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> Just a reminder that the CM Hyper 212+ retails for $29.99 with the bracket, so I suspect the cost of goods isn't that high (although recognizing that CM's volume is certainly a lot higher.)
> 
> Of course, another equally fine solution would be to ditch those little adhesive blocks, and in the documentation just tell people to use painter tape to hold it in place!


The real issue with those blocks is that you can't reuse them, I didn't bother removing the paper knowing that I'll be doing a second mount, or migrating cases soon.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> If Speedfan's built in curves dont work for you, you can also adjust that in SpeedFan's options under Fan Control tab. I personally havent bothered with this since it seems fine for me.


One big advantage of the fan control tab, is that those curves have a hysteresis setting. On the default, non-curve, settings, speedfan has an annoying habit of cycling back and forth as the measured temperature goes back and forth a degree.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> One big advantage of the fan control tab, is that those curves have a hysteresis setting. On the default, non-curve, settings, speedfan has an annoying habit of cycling back and forth as the measured temperature goes back and forth a degree.


Any tips on configuring the curve?


----------



## paleh0rse14

Hysteresis prevents that? Good to know, thank you!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Going to be RMAing my 3570k, if the new one has better contact I may not delid, if it doesn't I'm about 75% certain I'll go for it.


Does it do 3.8 with turbo? If yes you won't be able to RMA it. You also don't want to get rid of good silicon if the only issue you have is a bad IHS application. Before you try to sell / RMA I would suggest doing suicide runs to see where you can get your chip to post at relatively low volts (1.45ish or less). This can let you know if your chip has potential to make delidding worth it, or if you should settle for ~4.5ghz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> *No one is saying that!* If your not seeing an improvement, there is something wrong. It's as simple as that. What the problem is, I'm not sure. A bad mount, air in the system, not enough coolant in the system, fans not spinning at right speed. I don't know, but the H220 definitely outperforms the CM212!


Actually that is exactly what I am saying. I had a bad 3570k as far as temperature went when overclocked, I could get 4.5ghz easy with low volts but the temps were way to high (98C in Prime95). H220 and 212+ were virtually identical when I p/p'd 2 fans. It isn't an issue of getting heat away from the IHS at that point, it is a complete issue with getting heat off of the die onto the IHS.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Does it do 3.8 with turbo? If yes you won't be able to RMA it. You also don't want to get rid of good silicon if the only issue you have is a bad IHS application. Before you try to sell / RMA I would suggest doing suicide runs to see where you can get your chip to post at relatively low volts (1.45ish or less). This can let you know if your chip has potential to make delidding worth it, or if you should settle for ~4.5ghz..


The RMA is already approved, the reason is because of a suspected faulty memory controller. At stock speeds and voltage I average 2 blue screens a day, tried 4 different sticks of ram in each slot and the BSOD's continue to happen. As soon as I over volt the chip, 1.170v or higher at stock speeds, it stops happening...of course I didn't tell them that.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The RMA is already approved, the reason is because of a suspected faulty memory controller. At stock speeds and voltage I average 2 blue screens a day, tried 4 different sticks of ram in each slot and the BSOD's continue to happen. As soon as I over volt the chip, 1.170v or higher at stock speeds, it stops happening...of course I didn't tell them that.


Oh, if there are other issues then good luck with your second roll on the lottery.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Any tips on configuring the curve?


Trial and error?









Speedfan isn't known for its friendly interface, and trying to move the curves up/down is a point by point deal. So ultimately I ended up setting minimum speed settings for the fans (if the curve says go lower, it will stick with the minimum), and then stretching/compressing the ends of the curves so that the fans would start speeding up about the temperature I thought they should, reaching 100% when I thought they should.

For the H220, I just used the 4 cores. But for the case fans, started with just system, but then ended up adding in the cores and GPU as well, to keep heat from building up in the case.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> Trial and error?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speedfan isn't known for its friendly interface, and trying to move the curves up/down is a point by point deal. So ultimately I ended up setting minimum speed settings for the fans (if the curve says go lower, it will stick with the minimum), and then stretching/compressing the ends of the curves so that the fans would start speeding up about the temperature I thought they should, reaching 100% when I thought they should.
> 
> For the H220, I just used the 4 cores. But for the case fans, started with just system, but then ended up adding in the cores and GPU as well, to keep heat from building up in the case.


I just did some reading and learned that Gigabyte is a little weird about fan control. I'd like to run the pump at a set speed while allowing the fan speed to be curve controlled. From what I've read it seems there's no benefit to running the pump over 50%.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I just did some reading and learned that Gigabyte is a little weird about fan control. I'd like to run the pump at a set speed while allowing the fan speed to be curve controlled. From what I've read it seems there's no benefit to running the pump over 50%.


Easy solution: Connect the pump directly to a 3-pin header that allows manual control in bios for a fixed speed, and then attach the 4-pin PWN fans to a header (such as CPUFAN) that allows Speedfan to vary the speed based on temps.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Does it do 3.8 with turbo? If yes you won't be able to RMA it. You also don't want to get rid of good silicon if the only issue you have is a bad IHS application. Before you try to sell / RMA I would suggest doing suicide runs to see where you can get your chip to post at relatively low volts (1.45ish or less). This can let you know if your chip has potential to make delidding worth it, or if you should settle for ~4.5ghz.
> Actually that is exactly what I am saying. I had a bad 3570k as far as temperature went when overclocked, I could get 4.5ghz easy with low volts but the temps were way to high (98C in Prime95). H220 and 212+ were virtually identical when I p/p'd 2 fans. It isn't an issue of getting heat away from the IHS at that point, it is a complete issue with getting heat off of the die onto the IHS.


OK. Makes sense.







I've seen my 3610QM in my laptop hit 100C during encoding according to CoreTemp. That's just crazy!!!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Easy solution: Connect the pump directly to a 3-pin header that allows manual control in bios for a fixed speed, and then attach the 4-pin PWN fans to a header (such as CPUFAN) that allows Speedfan to vary the speed based on temps.


Pump is designed for 12v, not voltage control...last thing i want to do it reduce the MTBF of the pump. I just need to figure out which headers have PWM control, set one with a flat curve, and the other to ramp up with the CPU temps.

Edit:



So it looks like only the CPU and Sys Fan 1 support PWM control, just trying to determine what the difference is between VCC and Speed Control on pin 4.


----------



## Nightz2k

Got it today and installed. Bit of a hassle installing the pump, but I'm sure I could do it better if I need to next time. Corsair's were definitely a lot easier to install IMO.

Anyways, not a big deal. I'm going to have to control the fan speeds but for now I just wanted it running and it seems to be working well so far. I do hear the trickling (water) type sound, but it doesn't bother me. I had to also mount it with the fill port facing down, unless I mod my case on top, it will do for now. I will say the NZXT 210 Elite isn't really compatible without modding/drilling holes to align it right _(Which I did expect since I did it for the H100i)_. Other than that, it seems to fit, just barely.















I will show my results in temps when it's been running for a couple days first. So far, not bad. And yes I'm using Corsair H100i stock fans, it's for my own personal comparison. Most likely putting the Swiftech fans back on soon.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> One big advantage of the fan control tab, is that those curves have a hysteresis setting. On the default, non-curve, settings, speedfan has an annoying habit of cycling back and forth as the measured temperature goes back and forth a degree.


Interesting, good to know. my speeds increment by 5% rather than 10% (which slows the responsiveness) and overall nothing is fluctuating like crazy enough to make noticeable noise. I would imagine if you had fans that had a higher RPM and had a higher change in RPM per % it may be useful, like for the 2700 rpm SP120Ls.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Alright, I took the time to reapply the thermal paste tonight...

*Before:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 78, 73, 71.

*After:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 76, 72, 68

*Verdict:* Tiny improvement over the CM212 EVO -- roughly 2-3C on each core... not overly impressed.

The worse news is that it looks like my 3570k is a dud... it requires about 1.35 for 4.4, and the temps to do so are 80C+. Oh well...


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, I took the time to reapply the thermal paste tonight...
> 
> *Before:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 78, 73, 71.
> 
> *After:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 76, 72, 68
> 
> *Verdict:* Tiny improvement over the CM212 EVO -- roughly 2-3C on each core... not overly impressed.
> 
> The worse news is that it looks like my 3570k is a dud... it requires about 1.35 for 4.4, and the temps to do so are 80C+. Oh well...


Looks like your gonna have to delid that sucker!








As Avonosac said "It isn't an issue of getting heat away from the IHS at that point, it is a complete issue with getting heat off of the die onto the IHS."
The problem lies with the chip.


----------



## Skullwipe

Seems like no matter how I set the curve in speedfan it jumps to 89%. Looks like UEFI is going to have to be good enough.


----------



## TheGovernment

I re-did my tim, filled up the rad a bit more and temps are = to my D14...... Oh yuckers!! Not sure what I'm gonna do with it....


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Seems like no matter how I set the curve in speedfan it jumps to 89%. Looks like UEFI is going to have to be good enough.


I couldn't even get Speedfan to work on mine.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> I couldn't even get Speedfan to work on mine.


Found out it's a Gigabyte issue for me, Speedfan can do voltage control fine, but for some reason PWM control doesn't work. Had to use the crappy Easytune software, which only has a minimum and maximum speed setting.


----------



## Thaid

Received my H220 in the mail yesterday. Went straight to it until 5AM in the morning to get it done. Very satisfying!


----------



## nostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> 
> 
> Received my H220 in the mail yesterday. Went straight to it until 5AM in the morning to get it done. Very satisfying!


Great work! one thing i would have done diffrently is to switch the tubes at the CPU block around so you avoid the cross


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Found out it's a Gigabyte issue for me, Speedfan can do voltage control fine, but for some reason PWM control doesn't work. Had to use the crappy Easytune software, which only has a minimum and maximum speed setting.


Yeah I had to install the ASUS AI Suite to control my fans in the OS as well. It doesn't seem to work perfectly though because it seems like every time I change the setting it just ramps everyting up to 100% speed and I can't turn it back down until I reboot the system.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, I took the time to reapply the thermal paste tonight...
> 
> *Before:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 78, 73, 71.
> 
> *After:* 3570k @ 4.3, 1.3V, Ambient: 21.5C: After one hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 70, 76, 72, 68
> 
> *Verdict:* Tiny improvement over the CM212 EVO -- roughly 2-3C on each core... not overly impressed.
> 
> The worse news is that it looks like my 3570k is a dud... it requires about 1.35 for 4.4, and the temps to do so are 80C+. Oh well...


Did a quick run to compare:

3570K 4.5 @ 1.284 (delid), Ambient 21.5: After one 1/2 hour of P95 Small FFT, my four cores are maxing @ 58, 60, 61, 60 .


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Well I was watching some videos on Youtube when I noticed stuttering so I closed the browser and I see an alert on mu desktop that my CPU hit 77c. I thought that was pretty odd so I open CoreTemp and see the CPU is at 97c. I immediately powered off the system to check what was wrong. It seems the pump is dead after about 50 hours of use. I am on my phone right now so I don't know if anything else is damaged yet. This is extremely disappointing.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Double post.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Well I was watching some videos on Youtube when I noticed stuttering so I closed the browser and I see an alert on mu desktop that my CPU hit 77c. I thought that was pretty odd so I open CoreTemp and see the CPU is at 97c. I immediately powered off the system to check what was wrong. It seems the pump is dead after about 50 hours of use. I am on my phone right now so I don't know if anything else is damaged yet. This is extremely disappointing.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## NIK1

Has anyone tried Noctua NF-F12 fans on the rad to see if they cool any better than the Helix ones.Just curious, I have 2 on my old H100i and might switch them if they cool any better.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone tried Noctua NF-F12 fans on the rad to see if they cool any better than the Helix ones.Just curious, I have 2 on my old H100i and might switch them if they cool any better.


I believe that is how Linus tested them and they did improve. I would personally just add (2) more helix fans to get more performance and they are far cheaper.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> 
> 
> Received my H220 in the mail yesterday. Went straight to it until 5AM in the morning to get it done. Very satisfying!


Nice. Temps? Your experience with building and bleeding it?
As Nostra mentioned you can avoid the cross of the pump tubing, you just have to turn the pump upside down. That is why I turned mine upside down, so the "in" side of the pump was on the right side. Then I snaked the pump cable under my ram and up to the bay to the Swiftech splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone tried Noctua NF-F12 fans on the rad to see if they cool any better than the Helix ones.Just curious, I have 2 on my old H100i and might switch them if they cool any better.


I am using NF-F12 fans on both my H220 units. It is not so much about better performance for me, it was just that I like the sound (or lack thereof) of the Noctua fans at low speed. The Noctua are nice and I like them, but I can definitely see many people not seeing it worthwhile to spend that much when the stock H220 fans are not bad at all.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Nice. Temps? Your experience with building and bleeding it?
> As Nostra mentioned you can avoid the cross of the pump tubing, you just have to turn the pump upside down. That is why I turned mine upside down, so the "in" side of the pump was on the right side. Then I snaked the pump cable under my ram and up to the bay to the Swiftech splitter.
> I am using NF-F12 fans on both my H220 units. It is not so much about better performance for me, it was just that I like the sound (or lack thereof) of the Noctua fans at low speed. The Noctua are nice and I like them, but I can definitely see many people not seeing it worthwhile to spend that much when the stock H220 fans are not bad at all.


Also, the top of the pump is removable. you can turn the pump upside down and flip the top if you want to have the logo still facing upright.


----------



## Thaid

I completely forgot I could change the face plate. I kind of like the way it looks with the crossed tubing.. from a third person perspective, what do you guys think? Does it look better without crossed tubes?

I get about 49 degrees max running the Heaven Benchmark for 30 minutes.
FPS: 38.6
Score: 972
Min FPS: 15.4
Max FPS: 93.5

Settings:
Render: Direct3D11
Mode: 1920x1080 8xAA fullscreen
Preset: Custom
Quality: Ultra
Tessellation: Extreme

Thats with:
3570k stock
2x 6970 stock
Koolance 360mm rad (30 fpi)
H220 pump and rad

I haven't overclocked anything yet. Still testing for stability, leakage, and whatnot.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaid*
> 
> I completely forgot I could change the face plate. I kind of like the way it looks with the crossed tubing.. from a third person perspective, what do you guys think? Does it look better without crossed tubes?


I agree, I like the crossed look better. It's personal pref on looks anyway.

Nice setup overall.


----------



## TeeBlack

i agree i like the crossed look also.


----------



## Pure2sin

Hard to keep up with this thread. Jeeeze!


----------



## naldo

Anyone know if there is a way to mount this cooler fill port up in the top of an nzxt phantom without removing the top fans? Is there a longer bracket I can buy somewhere?

I installed mine last night and when the pump starts to speed up my PC sounds like a water fountain, which had me worried for a second, I'm assuming this is because I mounted it with the fill port down instead of up like the pictures on the swiftech site shows. Is that normal? This is my first stab a water cooling so I'm not sure what I should be expecting.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Hard to keep up with this thread. Jeeeze!


For real! If you don't read it every 12 hours you get so far behind.


----------



## ez12a

i propose a FAQ be made on the 2nd post lol.


----------



## TeeBlack

hey for the people that were looking at the Arc Midi 2 for their H220 it's on sale at newegg for $79.99


----------



## dquestic

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on where to mount the H220 in a Antec 1200? I am so close to pulling the trigger and bying on but can't find any antec 1200 examples. Thanks


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dquestic*
> 
> Anyone have any experience or thoughts on where to mount the H220 in a Antec 1200? I am so close to pulling the trigger and bying on but can't find any antec 1200 examples. Thanks


edit: actually nevermind. You can see how its jerry rigged with zip ties. 1200 isnt very water cooling friendly despite how large it is. you'll most likely need to cut some metal in order to fit the reservoir on the radiator.

picture of a h100 not even fitting properly:


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I'm planning on buying this cool my CPU and later expand it to another radiator and attach it to my Gigabyte 7970 OC Rev 2.1

I'm planning on using the Swiftech MCW82 universal block: http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx

As for the memory cooling, can I attach this Swiftech 7900 Heatsink on there? http://www.swiftech.com/hd7900-hsf.aspx

On the webpage, it has it listed that this will work on the Gigabyte 7970 OC, but I"m unsure as to whether that is Rev 1.0 or if it also be compatible with 2.1?

Please advise! Thank you.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dquestic*
> 
> Anyone have any experience or thoughts on where to mount the H220 in a Antec 1200? I am so close to pulling the trigger and bying on but can't find any antec 1200 examples. Thanks


You are better off getting a new case that is much better for watercooling, airflow and layout.
Arc Midi R2 $80 on sale at Newegg.com


----------



## navit

So I decided to redo my Tim. Here is how it looked when I took off the pump
My question is this too much? I had a good spread but it looks a little thick on the sides.
This is what was on the pump


----------



## dquestic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You are better off getting a new case that is much better for watercooling, airflow and layout.
> Arc Midi R2 $80 on sale at Newegg.com


I thought about the new case route, but I see no reason to replace the case at this moment, just an added expense I don't ned. Happy I asked, guess I will go with highend air cooler till my next build.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I'm planning on buying this cool my CPU and later expand it to another radiator and attach it to my Gigabyte 7970 OC Rev 2.1
> 
> I'm planning on using the Swiftech MCW82 universal block: http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
> 
> As for the memory cooling, can I attach this Swiftech 7900 Heatsink on there? http://www.swiftech.com/hd7900-hsf.aspx
> 
> On the webpage, it has it listed that this will work on the Gigabyte 7970 OC, but I"m unsure as to whether that is Rev 1.0 or if it also be compatible with 2.1?
> 
> Please advise! Thank you.


I'm fairly certain that our heat sink was also designed for the reference PCB and therefore it won't fit properly on the Rev 2.1 card. I'll look into it in the morning though when I get into work.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I'm planning on buying this cool my CPU and later expand it to another radiator and attach it to my Gigabyte 7970 OC Rev 2.1
> 
> I'm planning on using the Swiftech MCW82 universal block: http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
> 
> As for the memory cooling, can I attach this Swiftech 7900 Heatsink on there? http://www.swiftech.com/hd7900-hsf.aspx
> 
> On the webpage, it has it listed that this will work on the Gigabyte 7970 OC, but I"m unsure as to whether that is Rev 1.0 or if it also be compatible with 2.1?
> 
> Please advise! Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain that our heat sink was also designed for the reference PCB and therefore it won't fit properly on the Rev 2.1 card. I'll look into it in the morning though when I get into work.
Click to expand...

You are correct Bram. The komodo will NOT fit on the revision 2.1 PCB of these gigabyte cards. Which is why I am now selling the two that I have and now have a 7950 under water.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dquestic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You are better off getting a new case that is much better for watercooling, airflow and layout.
> Arc Midi R2 $80 on sale at Newegg.com
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about the new case route, but I see no reason to replace the case at this moment, just an added expense I don't ned. Happy I asked, guess I will go with highend air cooler till my next build.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

The expense you pay now, will get you a case you can expand into now and later. At that price, it destroys the Antec 1200 in every way.
What high end cooler?
What cooler do you have now?

The Antec 1200 is one case I would gladly spend money on to replace.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The expense you pay now, will get you a case you can expand into now and later. At that price, it destroys the Antec 1200 in every way.
> What high end cooler?
> What cooler do you have now?
> 
> The Antec 1200 is one case I would gladly spend money on to replace.


Ya. That's a nice case! Great price!


----------



## dquestic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The expense you pay now, will get you a case you can expand into now and later. At that price, it destroys the Antec 1200 in every way.
> What high end cooler?
> What cooler do you have now?
> 
> The Antec 1200 is one case I would gladly spend money on to replace.


I just upgraded my build to use the AMD FX-8350 and am running stock cooler till I got the H220 or some other replacement. I will probably get the Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL and call it a day. Then come end of the year when I do a new build I will think about replacing the case. But the cost of a case + H220 won't work for me sadly. I was looking forward to getting it, the reason I haven't yet is because it is sold out everywhere.

Thanks


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> So I decided to redo my Tim. Here is how it looked when I took off the pump
> My question is this too much? I had a good spread but it looks a little thick on the sides.
> This is what was on the pump


looks fine to me.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dquestic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The expense you pay now, will get you a case you can expand into now and later. At that price, it destroys the Antec 1200 in every way.
> What high end cooler?
> What cooler do you have now?
> 
> The Antec 1200 is one case I would gladly spend money on to replace.
> 
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my build to use the AMD FX-8350 and am running stock cooler till I got the H220 or some other replacement. I will probably get the Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL and call it a day. Then come end of the year when I do a new build I will think about replacing the case. But the cost of a case + H220 won't work for me sadly. I was looking forward to getting it, the reason I haven't yet is because it is sold out everywhere.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Spending money on Phanteks PH-TC14PE which almost $100 is not worth it if you plan on the H220.
Get like the CM Hyper 212+ and the Arc Midi R2 case. Which is a better deal to get.
That way you wont be wasting money.


----------



## dquestic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Spending money on Phanteks PH-TC14PE which almost $100 is not worth it if you plan on the H220.
> Get like the CM Hyper 212+ and the Arc Midi R2 case. Which is a better deal to get.
> That way you wont be wasting money.


Picking it up for 76.49, still less than the case and I can still overclock with the PH-TC14PE. I was just really hoping to fit the H220 into my antec twelve hundred.

Thanks


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> looks fine to me.


Yea it looked fine to me as well, just hoping for better load temps. Right now this is really no better than the h80 it replaced except for the noise.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dquestic*
> 
> Picking it up for 76.49, still less than the case and I can still overclock with the PH-TC14PE. I was just really hoping to fit the H220 into my antec twelve hundred.
> 
> Thanks


From what little googling I've done, you can fit a dual 120mm radiator like the H220 into the Antec 1200 quite easily if you mount it against the drive cages. You would have to order a second internal fan mount though, as the case only come with one.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yea it looked fine to me as well, just hoping for better load temps. Right now this is really no better than the h80 it replaced except for the noise.


yeah, it's kind of hard to judge IB temps if they're still lidded. I guess diminishing returns with better coolers unless you go sub ambient.

My SB and h220 is cooler than the h100i it replaced.


----------



## TheGovernment

So I re-did my TIM, no change in temps. I really wonder why there isn't any kind of LED or anything to indicate the pump is on and running. It's an easy reference to look into the case and see it even if for just piece of mind to make sure it's running. My second H220 just doesn't seem to be up to par with my first one. I checked it for fluid but it didn't need any. i can't say I'd want to add a GPU to the loop if it can't beat my D14 in temps..... Ahh well, I'm gonna put the D-14 back on and put this up for sale locally.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yeah, it's kind of hard to judge IB temps if they're still lidded. I guess diminishing returns with better coolers unless you go sub ambient.
> 
> My SB and h220 is cooler than the h100i it replaced.


True... at least my noise level dropped, lol


----------



## circeseye

muhahahahah it starts


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> So I re-did my TIM, no change in temps. I really wonder why there isn't any kind of LED or anything to indicate the pump is on and running. It's an easy reference to look into the case and see it even if for just piece of mind to make sure it's running. My second H220 just doesn't seem to be up to par with my first one. I checked it for fluid but it didn't need any. i can't say I'd want to add a GPU to the loop if it can't beat my D14 in temps..... Ahh well, I'm gonna put the D-14 back on and put this up for sale locally.


There is an issue missing here.
Very little info on how all in installed?
Pump/fan speeds?
Ambient temps?
Intake/Exhaust?
Have you tried different fans?
Your setup (your specs are not listed)


----------



## Nightz2k

Is it OK to run the pump at 50% _(in Speedfan)_ or is that bad for it ? Seems to be much quieter when I do.

I tried a search on it, but didn't find an answer. _(From what I tried to search anyway)_


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Is it OK to run the pump at 50% _(in Speedfan)_ or is that bad for it ? Seems to be much quieter when I do.
> 
> I tried a search on it, but didn't find an answer. _(From what I tried to search anyway)_


The pump PWM speed is 1200-3000 rpm


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The pump PWM speed is 1200-3000 rpm


Ok, I understand that much, just wondering if it's fine to run at ½ the speed or not. I'm assuming yes, since it's within that margin of speed. Trying to avoid any issues with the pump since many had problems with them stopping or dying and whatnot. _(I know most were debris issues though)_


----------



## Juraat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Ok, I understand that much, just wondering if it's fine to run at ½ the speed or not. I'm assuming yes, since it's within that margin of speed. Trying to avoid any issues with the pump since many had problems with them stopping or dying and whatnot. _(I know most were debris issues though)_


This won't be a problem. You should even be able to run it at 0% in speedfan, since that will give you the lowest rpm the pump supports which is 1200.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juraat*
> 
> This won't be a problem. You should even be able to run it at 0% in speedfan, since that will give you the lowest rpm the pump supports which is 1200.


I see, thanks for the confirmation. That's what I was looking for.









I'm OK at keeping it at 50% in Speedfan then, plenty quiet for me.


----------



## ez12a

as long as its not being voltage controlled, should be fine. Mine's at "15%" and sits at ~1400 rpm.


----------



## Davron

Awesome! My Microcenter has them listed in stock now. I know they didn't have them up last Friday since I was there. Time to start my new Prodigy build for my tide-me-over computer while I pull my main machine apart. Depending on how loud my 7950 is, I might end up putting that under water as well. So to match all the tubing, I need 5/8" 3/8" tubing and fittings? This time next week I'll be burning in my 3570k/7950.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davron*
> 
> So to match all the tubing, I need 5/8" 3/8" tubing and fittings?


Indeed


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> as long as its not being voltage controlled, should be fine. Mine's at "15%" and sits at ~1400 rpm.


i run mine at 20% and it's nice and quiet.


----------



## justanoldman

If I run my pump at 30% and NF-F12 at 60% vs. both at 100% the noise difference is huge. It goes from really quiet, to rather loud. The difference in temps is only a few c, so hardly worth it from my perspective.


----------



## MrStick89

Just ordered mine from Microcenter hopefully they still have some in stock.


----------



## TeeBlack

Microcenter is starting to have stock in store finally. my local MC has about 4 of them now.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Seeing as my H220 pump died and my CPU almost cooked does anyone know a good program that I can use to tell my computer to auto shutdown when the CPU fan (pump) RPM hits 0? I don't expect my replacement kit to have any problems but just so I can be more safe in the future. This is the first time I have had a watercooling kit in my system so I don't have the proper settings to shut down in case of pump failure.

Also I also couldn't manage to find a thermal protection setting in my ASUS UEFI so I am guessing they removed it, but apparently the CPU has a built in temperature killswitch. However when my H220 pump failed my CPU was almost 100c when I had to go and pull the plug myself. It seems that it should have shut off earlier than that right? Seeing as the Tj-Max is 98c I was over that by 2 degrees and it was still on.


----------



## ez12a

speedfan can be set to do this. I have mine set to start beeping through speakers @ < 10 rpm on the pump, along with a shutdown force command with a 30s delay. I posted the commands to do this earlier in the thread.

the delay can be changed or eliminated, i just dont want to be working on something important and then lose it. I'm not prime95ing all day everyday so 30 secs at normal usage wouldnt heat up the CPU much. By the time I hear the beeping I should already be saving/shutting down anyway.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Seeing as my H220 pump died and my CPU almost cooked does anyone know a good program that I can use to tell my computer to auto shutdown when the CPU fan (pump) RPM hits 0? I don't expect my replacement kit to have any problems but just so I can be more safe in the future. This is the first time I have had a watercooling kit in my system so I don't have the proper settings to shut down in case of pump failure.
> 
> Also I also couldn't manage to find a thermal protection setting in my ASUS UEFI so I am guessing they removed it, but apparently the CPU has a built in temperature killswitch. However when my H220 pump failed my CPU was almost 100c when I had to go and pull the plug myself. It seems that it should have shut off earlier than that right? Seeing as the Tj-Max is 98c I was over that by 2 degrees and it was still on.


Sandy Bridge throttles @ 100c you are fine.


----------



## dsmwookie

It will shut down around 100C. I think yours has a higher thermal limit than my 920, but it does around 92-95 I believe.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> speedfan can be set to do this. I have mine set to start beeping through speakers @ < 10 rpm on the pump, along with a shutdown force command with a 30s delay. I posted the commands to do this earlier in the thread.
> 
> the delay can be changed or eliminated, i just dont want to be working on something important and then lose it. I'm not prime95ing all day everyday so 30 secs at normal usage wouldnt heat up the CPU much. By the time I hear the beeping I should already be saving/shutting down anyway.


One thing I noticed about SpeedFan is that it wouldn't change the RPM of the fans whenever I tried to do so. Would that effect its ability to work like you are saying?

Also, would that mean I would need to leave SpeedFan open all the time? I remember using programs like RivaTuner for overclocking my GPU and setting fan profiles, and it afterwards those settings would be permanent and you didn't have to run the program for those settings to work.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> One thing I noticed about SpeedFan is that it wouldn't change the RPM of the fans whenever I tried to do so. Would that effect its ability to work like you are saying?
> 
> Also, would that mean I would need to leave SpeedFan open all the time? I remember using programs like RivaTuner for overclocking my GPU and setting fan profiles, and it afterwards those settings would be permanent and you didn't have to run the program for those settings to work.


I dont believe it needs fan control to determine when to run a certain command. At that point it's just reading the speed values given to it, so as long as Speedfan can see speeds/temps, you can run commands at a given condition. Speedfan can run an app, and that app can be windows' built in shutdown.exe application. It's included in the environment variables so you dont need to worry about the full path (i.e. C:\Windows\System32\...)

It does need to be on but you can also set it to open minimized and in the taskbar so you dont have the main window pop up every time you turn your computer on. It's not too heavy either in terms of footprint.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Here's how I have my Speedfan setup. Remember to set the temperature-based events using one of your *CORE* temperatures, and *not* the "CPU" temperature.

Note: Core1 is always the hottest of my four cores, and both shutdown commands use 20 second delays.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Seeing as my H220 pump died and my CPU almost cooked does anyone know a good program that I can use to tell my computer to auto shutdown when the CPU fan (pump) RPM hits 0? I don't expect my replacement kit to have any problems but just so I can be more safe in the future. This is the first time I have had a watercooling kit in my system so I don't have the proper settings to shut down in case of pump failure.
> 
> Also I also couldn't manage to find a thermal protection setting in my ASUS UEFI so I am guessing they removed it, but apparently the CPU has a built in temperature killswitch. However when my H220 pump failed my CPU was almost 100c when I had to go and pull the plug myself. It seems that it should have shut off earlier than that right? Seeing as the Tj-Max is 98c I was over that by 2 degrees and it was still on.


Core Temp


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Here's how I have my Speedfan setup. Remember to base the temperature-based events on one of your *CORE* temperatures, and *not* the "CPU" temperature.
> 
> Note: Core1 is always the hottest of my four cores.


Are the 100/99/1 numbers the actual RPM of the pump or the % RPM? It seems kind of confusing if it was a percent since it will always be less or equal to 100% thus constantly beeping.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Here's how I have my Speedfan setup. Remember to base the temperature-based events on one of your *CORE* temperatures, and *not* the "CPU" temperature.
> 
> Note: Core1 is always the hottest of my four cores.
> 
> 
> 
> Are the 100/99/1 numbers the actual RPM of the pump or the % RPM? It seems kind of confusing if it was a percent since it will always be less or equal to 100% thus constantly beeping.
Click to expand...

I have to assume they're the actual RPM values since it's never actually executed any of them? LOL


----------



## ExpertTrigger

For protecting my computer in case of pump failure. I've been using *CoreTemp*. It has a setting called Overheat Protection which monitors your temps and when a threshold is reached shuts down the computer. Really easy to set up.

For Speedfan I could never get my fans to be controlled until I found this:


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Are the 100/99/1 numbers the actual RPM of the pump or the % RPM? It seems kind of confusing if it was a percent since it will always be less or equal to 100% thus constantly beeping.


it's the actual RPM readout, hence why the % control doesnt matter.

% is for use with fan control only.

play with the values and test for yourself if you're not sure. Set the condition to something that would trigger your set event like beeping. i.e. h220 "fan" > 1400 to beep. Obviously you're not working with percentages here.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I have to assume they're the actual RPM values since it's never actually executed any of them? LOL


yeah I would think that if it was set to beep when the RPM was less or equal to 100% then it would be constantly beeping.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Here's how I have my Speedfan setup. Remember to set the temperature-based events using one of your *CORE* temperatures, and *not* the "CPU" temperature.
> 
> Note: Core1 is always the hottest of my four cores, and both shutdown commands use 20 second delays.


thanks for the pic. just set mine up like yours. one question those speedfan actually shutdown the computer or i gotta do it myself?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> thanks for the pic. just set mine up like yours. one question those speedfan actually shutdown the computer or i gotta do it myself?


the to EXEC shutdown /s /f is the shutdown command. You dont need to do anything.

see: http://myitforum.com/cs2/blogs/rtrent/archive/2009/08/28/shutdown-exe-switches.aspx

for all the switches. the past few posts describe this behavior..


----------



## AlDyer

Gonna get an FX 8350 in a bit over a week and see what results I get with it... Atleast then I can compare with someone, since no-one here seems to have bulldozers. Can't wait ^^


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> the to EXEC shutdown /s /f is the shutdown command. You dont need to do anything.
> 
> see: http://myitforum.com/cs2/blogs/rtrent/archive/2009/08/28/shutdown-exe-switches.aspx
> 
> for all the switches. the past few posts describe this behavior..


thanks. i tested the popup messages and beeps (works fine) didnt have a chance to test the shutdown command before i left. will try iy out when i get back home.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> yeah I would think that if it was set to beep when the RPM was less or equal to 100% then it would be constantly beeping.


You could try Asus Fan Xpert, extremely easy to set up. I checked though the setting and I cannot find a way to get an audible tone for temps, I do get a notification though.


----------



## Skullwipe

The issue I had getting Speedfan to work properly was that the "Warning" temperatures default to an insanely low 40c, once a temp hits the warning level Speedfan runs anything attached to it at 100%. It's working great now, but for some reason no matter what I do with the curve, my pump won't go below 35% if I let Speedfan control it.

It really is a shame Gigabytes utilities suck so much, Easy Tune 6 is bloated and worthless.


----------



## Nightz2k

Just showing my own personal tests using PRIME95 Blend _(default test)_ for at least 1 hour each time. Fans at 100% speeds, no less.

*i5 2500k @4.5GHz with 1.3v*

*H100i* with stock fans
AVG Temps: *54, 58, 56, 54*

*H220* With stock fans
AVG Temps: *56, 59, 55, 55*

*H220* with Corsair H100i fans
AVG Temps: *53, 57, 52, 53*

All pretty much the same ambient temps and used PK-1 TIM each time.

I'm satisfied considering the noise level is a good trade off. The Corsair fans are much louder for minimal gain.

Screenshots:

*
EDIT*: Was meant to say average (AVG) temps, not MAX. I changed it out to average.


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Just showing my own personal tests using PRIME95 Blend _(default test)_ for at least 1 hour each time. Fans at 100% speeds, no less.
> 
> *i5 2500k @4.5GHz with 1.3v*
> 
> *H100i* with stock fans
> MAX Temps: *54, 58, 56, 54*
> 
> *H220* With stock fans
> MAX Temps: *56, 59, 55, 55*
> 
> *H220* with Corsair H100i fans
> MAX Temps: *53, 57, 52, 53*
> 
> All pretty much the same ambient temps and used PK-1 TIM each time.
> 
> I'm satisfied considering the noise level is a good trade off. The Corsair fans are much louder for minimal gain.
> 
> Screenshots:


At higher voltage and OC the H220 stretches its legs against the H100i. Push that chip further


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> At higher voltage and OC the H220 stretches its legs against the H100i. Push that chip further


Oh I know that and of course I will.







I was just doing a personal test at an even level, comparing with an average OC of most 2500k's._(IMO)_ Higher overclocks are impractical since some will not overclock as high as others. I was up to 5GHz stable on the H100i. I'm pretty sure I can go a little higher on this.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> At higher voltage and OC the H220 stretches its legs against the H100i. Push that chip further


This point need reinforcing. At stock voltages and speed you don't see much of a cooling impact from moving to the H220, but pushy an Ivybridge to 1.3v and the differences become clear.

The results below are from a 3770k at 1.3V and the clock speed is dialed up to 4500MHz



From: http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=784&pagenumber=7


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Just showing my own personal tests using PRIME95 Blend _(default test)_ for at least 1 hour each time. Fans at 100% speeds, no less.
> 
> *i5 2500k @4.5GHz with 1.3v*
> 
> *H100i* with stock fans
> MAX Temps: *54, 58, 56, 54*
> 
> *H220* With stock fans
> MAX Temps: *56, 59, 55, 55*
> 
> *H220* with Corsair H100i fans
> MAX Temps: *53, 57, 52, 53*
> 
> All pretty much the same ambient temps and used PK-1 TIM each time.
> 
> I'm satisfied considering the noise level is a good trade off. The Corsair fans are much louder for minimal gain.
> 
> Screenshots:


With helix fans the h100i comes pretty close. Add better fans and you can see it'll get better. If you can pick up some F12s or GTs to get the better performance w/o the noise.


----------



## jbmayes2000

I asked this in the corsair hydro forum and they said "not really" for their products but do shrouds help any on the h220?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> I asked this in the corsair hydro forum and they said "not really" for their products but do shrouds help any on the h220?


Not sure about that, but I do know a 240mm radiator gasket can help if you don't have the fans attached directly to the radiator.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> This point need reinforcing. At stock voltages and speed you don't see much of a cooling impact from moving to the H220, but pushy an Ivybridge to 1.3v and the differences become clear.
> 
> The results below are from a 3770k at 1.3V and the clock speed is dialed up to 4500MHz
> 
> 
> 
> From: http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=784&pagenumber=7


Martin has the H100i performing better than H220 on a 3930k @ 1.44v. Of course at the cost of being very loud.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/


----------



## Nightz2k

I got the H220 for expandability with no real performance loss. Everyone's results will vary with so many different setups anyway. It's all good, I'm more than happy with it!


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> I got the H220 for expandability with no real performance loss. Everyone's results will vary with so many different setups anyway. It's all good, I'm more than happy with it!


As am I, and I won't be expanding it.


----------



## Skullwipe

Only had it running since late Monday night, but my 2 Helix fans are making a slight buzzing noise. I've adjusted the screw tension with no change, so I've eliminated over or under tightening as a possibility, this is at a whopping 1150 RPM. Not sure what else to try.


----------



## yoi

if the pump/waterblock ever going to be sold separately ? ... i got a haswell build itx coming up for a client , and i wanna use it

( and save as much money as i want lol )

and off topic , a Monsta 240 can cool off a Titan and a Haswell CPU ( Haswell CPU is less W than the current ones)


----------



## Phelan

wow, I didn't visit this thread for three days - 200 posts behind!


----------



## Skullwipe

Can anyone recommend a good 240mm radiator gasket? I think the noise I'm getting is caused by the metal between the fans and the radiator.


----------



## Phelan

Xspc makes a good one


----------



## TeeBlack

was having some issues with the shutdown command in speedfan but finally got it to work now. here's my setup:


----------



## navit

Well Third time is the charm for me and remounting with fresh tim. My second attempt was not my best as I was playing with different amounts of tim and as my temps were showing me I clearly didnt put enough on. When I pulled the pump off I could see some of the chip wasnt getting any tim at all. I will also say that the third time was the easiest remount yet as the back plate is still a PITA. So when I fired it up after the fun and games I was pleased to see my lowest idle temps yet, lowest @ 22c and highest at 34c (always has one thats hotter than the rest).
I decided to just let it run for a bit, about an hour or so and I played a couple of missions in starcraft leaving real temp open. I was pleased to see no core over 60c ( 60c was the hottest one core got). I felt pretty good about all this so the wife , kid and i went to dinner. Came Home and saw my Idle temps had dropped another 2-3c across the cores so I shut her down and got some sleep.
This morning I wanted to see Temps on a IBT run so I fired her up and to my delight only one core even hit the 70's (71c to be honest ) with the rest in the mid to high 60's. All this amounts to about 5-10c better load temps, running @ 4.5/1.22v on my 3770k, than my H80 it replaced and better idle temps as well.
Take all that along with the much reduced noise and Nav is a happy camper.......... Thank you for your time


----------



## ez12a

glad it worked out!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad it worked out!


Me too !!!!


----------



## circeseye

so far sooooooo good. overclocked to 4334.9 with the software and still have turbo boost on temps at 38c and so far with stress only gets to mid 40s. damn tax return needs to show up so i can add my video card its idling at 49c. (it hot in here) and gaming puts it at 59c to 63c

installing it was pretty easy, turned it on and heard gurgling so tipped it around a few times turned it to full speed and tipped it some more and it was good to go


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Is it possible to replace the rubber tubing with a metal pipe/tubing? Is there any downside for having it like this, other than needing exact measurements?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Is it possible to replace the rubber tubing with a metal pipe/tubing? Is there any downside for having it like this, other than needing exact measurements?


if you are using metal tubing, if it isnt copper, then you will eventually take on galvanic corrosion


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Is it possible to replace the rubber tubing with a metal pipe/tubing? Is there any downside for having it like this, other than needing exact measurements?


you'll have to devise a way to get tubing connected to the barbs, either though a intermediary piece of rubber tubing with a fitting one end or something else.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Is it possible to replace the rubber tubing with a metal pipe/tubing? Is there any downside for having it like this, other than needing exact measurements?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1290477/build-log-800d-revision-3-copper-piping-completed


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if you are using metal tubing, if it isnt copper, then you will eventually take on galvanic corrosion


Got it! I will buy copper tubing for this project. Any specific diameter? I'm assuming I'll have to go with the diameter of the the Swiftech tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you'll have to devise a way to get tubing connected to the barbs, either though a intermediary piece of rubber tubing with a fitting one end or something else.


Thank you. I will look into some rubber for piping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1290477/build-log-800d-revision-3-copper-piping-completed


Thanks! This is just what I needed!!


----------



## TheGovernment

So I sold my 2nd h220 but I'm going to change the tubing and coolant on my first one. So I'll need 3/8 ID to 5/8 OD tubing and 4 x 3/8 to 5/8 compression fittings and thats it right?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> So I sold my 2nd h220 but I'm going to change the tubing and coolant on my first one. So I'll need 3/8 ID to 5/8 OD tubing and 4 x 3/8 to 5/8 compression fittings and thats it right?


3/8-5/8 yes, but any fittings you need depends on what you are doing. If just changing the tubing and not adding any rads or blocks you don't need any fittings. Each rad and/or block you add will most likely need two fittings each.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Alright, after adding two more Helix fans for push/pull and giving the IC Diamond TIM I used on the CPU some more time to cure, my hottest core at full load dropped a full 7C since Monday!

It's now maxing out at 71C instead of 78C. Needless to say, I'm now more than satisfied with the performance of my H220... good stuff!


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> 3/8-5/8 yes, but any fittings you need depends on what you are doing. If just changing the tubing and not adding any rads or blocks you don't need any fittings. Each rad and/or block you add will most likely need two fittings each.


RGR that.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Alright, after adding two more Helix fans for push/pull and giving the IC Diamond TIM I used on the CPU some more time to cure, my hottest core at full load dropped a full 7C since Monday!
> 
> It's now maxing out at 71C instead of 78C. Needless to say, I'm now more than satisfied with the performance of my H220... good stuff!


----------



## Diablo85

finally replaced the two swiftech fans i had on the radiator with 2 more of the COUGAR CF-V12HP fans. before i added the two fans i decided to see if they were more effective as intake or exhaust fans so i set them to exhaust the heat out of the case...gpu temps got up to 88C while playing sleeping dogs. I was not content with that so i set the 4 fans back to intake and the gpu has not gone over 76C with a mix of sleeping dogs and blood dragon.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> finally replaced the two swiftech fans i had on the radiator with 2 more of the COUGAR CF-V12HP fans. before i added the two fans i decided to see if they were more effective as intake or exhaust fans so i set them to exhaust the heat out of the case...gpu temps got up to 88C while playing sleeping dogs. I was not content with that so i set the 4 fans back to intake and the gpu has not gone over 76C with a mix of sleeping dogs and blood dragon.


Shame I can't find water blocks for my GTX 480...on the bright side it's happy as a clam running at 100c. lol


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> finally replaced the two swiftech fans i had on the radiator with 2 more of the COUGAR CF-V12HP fans. before i added the two fans i decided to see if they were more effective as intake or exhaust fans so i set them to exhaust the heat out of the case...gpu temps got up to 88C while playing sleeping dogs. I was not content with that so i set the 4 fans back to intake and the gpu has not gone over 76C with a mix of sleeping dogs and blood dragon.


Been looking for a Komodo cooler but don't seem to find any in stock. Where did you get yours?


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Been looking for a Komodo cooler but don't seem to find any in stock. Where did you get yours?


In Stock here

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=34383


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Been looking for a Komodo cooler but don't seem to find any in stock. Where did you get yours?


I ordered my komodo block directly from Swiftech the morning after I ordered my H220.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Shame I can't find water blocks for my GTX 480...on the bright side it's happy as a clam running at 100c. lol


assuming you want one that cools vram as well, you have the option of importing some from china if no US retailer sells them. these arent 100% full, but they cover the vram/gpu core

Reference 480/570/580 102$ + shipping
680/670/580/570/480/470/465 70$ + shipping
480/570/580 68$ + shipping note that this is aluminum
260/280/285/270/465/470/480/580 36 + shipping not sure if copper
480/470/465/580/570/680 36 + shipping

are some that you can import for a 480. Of course, that is if you trust a chinese vendor(for more of people who bought into it, go to WC section, read the 250$ Chinese WC loop thread

Alternatively, you can buy a Swiftech 480-HS (crazypc seems like the only ones who still have them atm) and go buy a Swiftech Universal Gpu block to make it look sorta that you have a full cover gpu block to some extent


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Been about 2 weeks now since my RMA was registered with Bacata (EU RMA) and I still don`t have my new unit. They were "kind enough" to pay to ship my faulty unit, however they are VERY slow responding to e-mails. I still don`t have any information when, how or if I will get a new unit. Overall poor experience with Bacata.

Just wanted to let you guys know my experience with Bacata *sigh*. Wish Swiftech dealt with RMAs directly in EU instead of Bacata.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> finally replaced the two swiftech fans i had on the radiator with 2 more of the COUGAR CF-V12HP fans. before i added the two fans i decided to see if they were more effective as intake or exhaust fans so i set them to exhaust the heat out of the case...gpu temps got up to 88C while playing sleeping dogs. I was not content with that so i set the 4 fans back to intake and the gpu has not gone over 76C with a mix of sleeping dogs and blood dragon.


So, its somewhat effective to use the stock rad for both GPU and CPU loop?


----------



## Skullwipe

Seems like the Swiftech unit would be the way to go, these 480's run so hot it seems like it'd be more efficient to just cool the DIE.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> In Stock here
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=34383


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> I ordered my komodo block directly from Swiftech the morning after I ordered my H220.


Its the 7970 version I'm looking for









Edit: NVM they do have it!
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=33923


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> So, its somewhat effective to use the stock rad for both GPU and CPU loop?


Seems to work pretty well. Before that 88C on the GPU yesterday, i haven't seen GPU temps over 76C (down from 87C on the stock cooler) and cpu temps are down from the mid 70's on a D14 to high 50's/low 60's C. I do eventually plan on adding another rad and another GPU to the mix down the road, not quite yet though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> In Stock here
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=34383
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> I ordered my komodo block directly from Swiftech the morning after I ordered my H220.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its the 7970 version I'm looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: NVM they do have it!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think its been about 2 weeks since swiftech had the 7970 version of the block in stock as I needed the 7970 block as well due to this 7950 using the 7970 reference pcb.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Beautiful screenshot of my IDLE temps...



http://imgur.com/GjvCSrY



...and what is, in my opinion, an equally beautiful screenshot of my LOAD temps:



http://imgur.com/HxLKdjQ



*Thank you Swiftech!*


----------



## Crax

Quick question. Would the H220 fit onto the new 1150 socket coming out soon? Been wanting a new overhaul of my current build.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Beautiful screenshot of my IDLE temps...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GjvCSrY
> 
> 
> 
> ...and what is, in my opinion, an equally beautiful screenshot of my LOAD temps:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HxLKdjQ
> 
> 
> 
> *Thank you Swiftech!*


Looking good there


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Its the 7970 version I'm looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: NVM they do have it!
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=33923


my bad i linked the wrong one.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crax*
> 
> Quick question. Would the H220 fit onto the new 1150 socket coming out soon? Been wanting a new overhaul of my current build.


cooler mounting has been the same for 1156, 1155, and 1150.


----------



## Crax

^awesomeness, Thanks. Now planning if I should expand to Dual GPU cooling as well


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crax*
> 
> ^awesomeness, Thanks. Now planning if I should expand to Dual GPU cooling as well


GPU cooling is great, I highly recommend it.
No matter what I did, I could not keep my 690 under the 70c throttle point when it was oced and trying to do benchmark runs. This was with the case open and a floor fan blowing on the card.

Now with my H220 expanded and a Heatkiller block (which I definitely recommend) my max temps are in the low 40s no matter how hard I push it. That has allowed me a little higher oc and complete quiet rather than listening to a GPU fan at max rpm.


----------



## Hawxie

I'm kind of lost here, I don't know if I should pick up a H220, or a Eisberg Prestige 240L, I will be changing/ adding a radiator down the road. So I have no idea which one to get D:.
And It won't be until september before I order either one.
[EDIT]
I will also pick up some new fittings and tube, I dont really trust the clamp fittings on the H220 for some reason...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> I'm kind of lost here, I don't know if I should pick up a H220, or a Eisberg Prestige 240L, I will be changing/ adding a radiator down the road. So I have no idea which one to get D:.
> And It won't be until september before I order either one.
> [EDIT]
> I will also pick up some new fittings and tube, I dont really trust the clamp fittings on the H220 for some reason...


you wont be able to change the clamp fittings on the pump or the h220 radiator since they're integrated. The prestige is nice in that regard, but based off of the pricing form the prestige thread it's quite a bit more expensive at least in terms of US dollars.

but for the price of the prestige (based off of initial pricing), you could go for the Apogee Drive II and then buy whatever you want for it. With the going price of £130 for the Eisberg that is about ~200 USD compared to $140 for the H220, and about $145 for the Apogee Drive 2 by itself.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> I'm kind of lost here, I don't know if I should pick up a H220, or a Eisberg Prestige 240L, I will be changing/ adding a radiator down the road. So I have no idea which one to get D:.
> And It won't be until september before I order either one.
> [EDIT]
> I will also pick up some new fittings and tube, I dont really trust the clamp fittings on the H220 for some reason...


you can't change the fittings on the h220


----------



## kingduqc

How quiet the basic fans are? I kinda want my pc to be dead silent once I go to sleep and it stay at idle. What kind of fans you would recommend? Can you actually expand 1 gpu+ the cpu on a single 240 rad or is it too much?


----------



## paleh0rse14

I have four of the stock Helix fans on mine, and it's almost dead silent when idling.

That said, why not just use the Windows "hibernate" option while you're asleep?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> How quiet the basic fans are? I kinda want my pc to be dead silent once I go to sleep and it stay at idle. What kind of fans you would recommend? Can you actually expand 1 gpu+ the cpu on a single 240 rad or is it too much?


You can have the H220 cool a cpu and single gpu, but your results can be anything from just fine to somewhat inadequate. It all depends on what you are cooling and the oc of each. If neither are oced or a low oc then you will most likely be ok. However if you have a non delidded 3770k with a high oc and a gpu known to run hot with a high oc, then you will need more rad space.

Sound is so subjective I don't think anyone can answer that but you. I can hear any computer component no matter how "silent" people claim they are, and there is not just the decibel level but the quality of the sound as well. I would rather listen to a Metallica song at high decibels than a baby crying at low decibels if you know what I mean. With that said, I switched my stock H220 fans for NF-F12 fans that are turned down rather low, but the stock fans are better than any other stock fans I have come across with AIO coolers including Corsair and Antec.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> How quiet the basic fans are? I kinda want my pc to be dead silent once I go to sleep and it stay at idle. What kind of fans you would recommend? Can you actually expand 1 gpu+ the cpu on a single 240 rad or is it too much?


You can definitely expand the 220 to the cpu + gpu. temps on mine are fine and i have an overclocked 2700k and overclocked 7950. you can check my temps a page or 2 back.


----------



## Scorpion667

Has anyone figured out how to remove the glue from the pump that holds the little black decorative plate? I successfully removed it but the glue marks didn't come off with 99% alcohol, goo-gone, nothing worked. I'm guessing acetone would melt through the material...

Pretty sure this is superglue or krazy glue


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Been about 2 weeks now since my RMA was registered with Bacata (EU RMA) and I still don`t have my new unit. They were "kind enough" to pay to ship my faulty unit, however they are VERY slow responding to e-mails. I still don`t have any information when, how or if I will get a new unit. Overall poor experience with Bacata.
> 
> Just wanted to let you guys know my experience with Bacata *sigh*. Wish Swiftech dealt with RMAs directly in EU instead of Bacata.


Sent you a PM. I'm sorry that you're having difficulties with them, but there is someone there that can help to speed things up. Let me know how it goes.


----------



## Fleat

So today was the day that my pump finally bit it. Was playing some Battlefield, and started lagging hard. Noticed that the CPU was at 87C, and killed power. Tried running the pump stand alone, plugged into a PWM header, plugged into a fan controller, and plugged into the included splitter. Nada.

I drained out the fluids, and filtered the coolant using coffee filters and a funnel. I had a black metal piece that almost looked like half of a very skinny ring, and a lot of metal shavings. I flushed it out a few times with some distilled, and filled the system with distilled for a test run. This time around it fired up when plugged in, and the pump ran just fine. After letting this run for several minutes, I drained out the distilled and refilled with the filtered coolant. I topped off with distilled as needed as I tried to work the air bubbles out.

It seems to be running okay now, and I guess I am "satisfied". Still somewhat frustrated at losing my evening due to some poor quality control though. My pump is only slightly less noisy than before, which is somewhat of a nuisance since I would consider it quite loud.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You can have the H220 cool a cpu and single gpu, but your results can be anything from just fine to somewhat inadequate. It all depends on what you are cooling and the oc of each. If neither are oced or a low oc then you will most likely be ok. However if you have a non delidded 3770k with a high oc and a gpu known to run hot with a high oc, then you will need more rad space.


I have a GTX 480, about the hottest running GPU ever devised by man. I'm doubtful that an additional 120mm or 140mm radiator would be enough to handle both it and my 3570k.


----------



## clspdhax1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> So today was the day that my pump finally bit it...
> ...It seems to be running okay now, and I guess I am "satisfied". Still somewhat frustrated at losing my evening due to some poor quality control though. My pump is only slightly less noisy than before, which is somewhat of a nuisance since I would consider it quite loud.


I just got mines replaced this weekend, since they are local. From what I found out-- if any-- it would be the early batch of H220 that might have this problem. It was recommended to do what you did to solve it--a flush and refill. I'm glad you figured it out, and it worked out.

I also grabbed a pair of their universal GPU blocks, and will be posting temps before and after installation for those who might be interested in an H220 dual GPUs setup soon.


----------



## Hawxie

Lets say, I want to cool something that has the same TDP as a 660 ti/670, would the stock radiator + 2 F12's and 2 SP120 Quiet editions, the CPU is a non overclocked 3770. I "might" get it to 4ghz, since its already hovering at 3,8-3,9ghz.
The rad will be mounted in the front of my Define R4.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Its the 7970 version I'm looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: NVM they do have it!
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=33923


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Seems to work pretty well. Before that 88C on the GPU yesterday, i haven't seen GPU temps over 76C (down from 87C on the stock cooler) and cpu temps are down from the mid 70's on a D14 to high 50's/low 60's C. I do eventually plan on adding another rad and another GPU to the mix down the road, not quite yet though.
> Yeah, I think its been about 2 weeks since swiftech had the 7970 version of the block in stock as I needed the 7970 block as well due to this 7950 using the 7970 reference pcb.


You mean this one, for the 7970 series?



...That fits this card, that's a 7970 wearing a murdered 7950's skin?



Creamy "7950" insides....



Sorry, didn't mean to derail the thought train, but that's a VERY slick setup once it's all together!
I love mine!

Thanks - T


----------



## ElementR

Just got an email from FrozenCPU, they are apparently expecting to get the H220 in stock (1-5 days) and they are now order able on the site.
LINK!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> So today was the day that my pump finally bit it. Was playing some Battlefield, and started lagging hard. Noticed that the CPU was at 87C, and killed power. Tried running the pump stand alone, plugged into a PWM header, plugged into a fan controller, and plugged into the included splitter. Nada.
> 
> I drained out the fluids, and filtered the coolant using coffee filters and a funnel. I had a black metal piece that almost looked like half of a very skinny ring, and a lot of metal shavings. I flushed it out a few times with some distilled, and filled the system with distilled for a test run. This time around it fired up when plugged in, and the pump ran just fine. After letting this run for several minutes, I drained out the distilled and refilled with the filtered coolant. I topped off with distilled as needed as I tried to work the air bubbles out.
> 
> It seems to be running okay now, and I guess I am "satisfied". Still somewhat frustrated at losing my evening due to some poor quality control though. My pump is only slightly less noisy than before, which is somewhat of a nuisance since I would consider it quite loud.


I'm sorry for the inconvenience that this caused you and please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry for the inconvenience that this caused you and please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns.


Thanks for the kind words. I am glad it is back up and running without needing an rma. Hopefully I won't have any problems in the future. I do understand the risks of being an early adopter, but it still sucks when you get burned lol.


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> Just got an email from FrozenCPU, they are apparently expecting to get the H220 in stock (1-5 days) and they are now order able on the site.
> LINK!


Thanks for the heads up. I have been looking for this cooler to come back in stock. Don't forget to use the promo code "xtreme" to save another $7. It was $145 shipped to CA.


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I have been looking for this cooler to come back in stock. Don't forget to use the *promo code "xtreme"* to save another $7. It was $145 shipped to CA.


There is a new *FrozenCPU promo code* for 2013 that is "*xtrm*".


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Can someone help me figure out how to mount my H220 in this Arc Midi R2? It doesn't fit in the top in any orientation because either the reservoir or swivel fittings hit the side of the 5.25" bays. It also doesn't work in the front because the tubes aren't long enough to reach the CPU.

I got this case specifically because my old one couldn't fit the H220 and now this one doesn't either...


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Can someone help me figure out how to mount my H220 in this Arc Midi R2? It doesn't fit in the top in any orientation because either the reservoir or swivel fittings hit the side of the 5.25" bays. It also doesn't work in the front because the tubes aren't long enough to reach the CPU.
> 
> I got this case specifically because my old one couldn't fit the H220 and now this one doesn't either...


It definitely fits up top with the tube end toward the 5.25" bays. I just did it last week. The tubes themselves will be slightly inside the bays, but they won't rub the cage if you orient them properly.

Make sure you're lining it up with the proper 120mm fan holes.


----------



## Skullwipe

I was at the Microcenter in Westmont IL today, they had four H220's on the shelf, may have more in the back.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Can someone help me figure out how to mount my H220 in this Arc Midi R2? It doesn't fit in the top in any orientation because either the reservoir or swivel fittings hit the side of the 5.25" bays.


You need to put the 90 degree fittings towards the 5.25" bays. But first you need to ditch the Blu Ray/DVD or CD rom drive and get a external drive. Then grab two pairs of channel locks and bend the bottom of the 5.25" bay bracket down ever so slightly. Then the 90 degree elbows should not hit the 5.25" bay any more or just remove it like I did. You can also make a bracket like mine and mount your fans in a push configuration.



Or you can pick up some new tubing and lengthen the hoses to reach from the front bezel. That would allow you to keep your drive bays.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> Can someone help me figure out how to mount my H220 in this Arc Midi R2? It doesn't fit in the top in any orientation because either the reservoir or swivel fittings hit the side of the 5.25" bays.
> 
> 
> 
> You need to put the 90 degree fittings towards the 5.25" bays. But first you need to ditch the Blu Ray/DVD or CD rom drive. Then grab two pairs of channel locks and bend the bottom of the 5.25" bay bracket down ever so slightly. Then the 90 degree elbows should not hit the 5.25" bay any more.
Click to expand...

Mine fit perfectly in the top of the R2 without having to bend anything and with a standard DVD burner in the top 5.25" bay. The tubes aren't touching or rubbing either. I hate to say it, but something's not right with your setup.

Perhaps you used the wrong screw holes?


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> You need to put the 90 degree fittings towards the 5.25" bays. But first you need to ditch the Blu Ray/DVD or CD rom drive and get a external drive. Then grab two pairs of channel locks and bend the bottom of the 5.25" bay bracket down ever so slightly. Then the 90 degree elbows should not hit the 5.25" bay any more or just remove it like I did. You can also make a bracket like mine and mount your fans in a push configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can pick up some new tubing and lengthen the hoses to reach from the front bezel. That would allow you to keep your drive bays.


Yeah the whole point of me choosing this case was to fit internal watercooling without modding... Almost any case can fit radiators if you mod it. If I was interested in modding to begin with I would have just modded my old case.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I've never done liquid cooling, but looking to start with this. I have a question. though. Can you change the fittings on the block/pump and the res/rad? If I wanted to put something in from Bitspower, would I be able to do that?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I've never done liquid cooling, but looking to start with this. I have a question. though. Can you change the fittings on the block/pump and the res/rad? If I wanted to put something in from Bitspower, would I be able to do that?


nope. you have to use the built in barbs.


----------



## paleh0rse14

You do NOT need to mod the Arc Midi R2 case, at all, to properly fit the h220 radiator in the top. I just installed one in the same case last week. While it did take me a little while to figure out which mounting holes to use and how to line up the tubing, it eventually went in without a single problem.

I did not need to give up the DVD drive or bend anything out of the way, and the tubes don't touch the cage at all once everything is lined up properly -- it fits like a glove!


----------



## savagepagan

Has anyone used the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition PWM fans or Cooljag Everflow PWM (R121225BU)?
Can the this aio cooler handle fans with higher amps like a .40 amp fan?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19642/fan-1239/Corsair_Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_High_Static_Pressure_120mm_PWM_Fan_-_2_Pack_CO-9050014-WW.html?tl=g36c365s936

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c365s936


----------



## Apolladan

how do i buy this in america when its always out of stock


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> nope. you have to use the built in barbs.


So it won't be possible to use a different sized tubing or a different type of material (copper) tubes?


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apolladan*
> 
> how do i buy this in america when its always out of stock


You read the thread that you are complaining in and see that you can order it HERE currently. You would also know that Swiftech moved their production facility and will be getting back to normal production.


----------



## Silvaire

Sorry for the repeat question guys but it seems the more research I do the more hesitation I have. I have a Define R4 that I'd like to front-mount the H220 in (with all hdd cages removed) as an intake. However, I keep reading in this forum something about it being bad to place the reservoir below the pump. I think the H220's radiator is a combo reservoir too right? And so in my setup preference, the reservoir would indeed be below the pump? Is this a no go?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> So it won't be possible to use a different sized tubing or a different type of material (copper) tubes?


someone else posted a similar question of whether or not they could use tubing.

You'll probably have to come up with an adapter of some kind. You can probably make one yourself with a small length of tubing and some fittings to go over the barbs and convert it to the type you need.


----------



## ZombieJon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone used the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition PWM fans or Cooljag Everflow PWM (R121225BU)?


LinusTechTips did a trial w/ Corsair SP series. I'm assuming high performance.
Their final table: http://bit.ly/11fST5e


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone used the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition PWM fans or Cooljag Everflow PWM (R121225BU)?
> Can the this aio cooler handle fans with higher amps like a .40 amp fan?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19642/fan-1239/Corsair_Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_High_Static_Pressure_120mm_PWM_Fan_-_2_Pack_CO-9050014-WW.html?tl=g36c365s936
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c365s936


Either one of those will work fine - you can connect them directly to the PWM splitter and they'll be controlled at the same percentage as the pump - presuming you have the pump hooked up to port 1 and have the splitter plugged into a PWM enabled CPU FAN header on your motherboard.

If you go with either, I'd be interested to see results of before and after testing on temps - the Helix fans versus either of these. I changed to the Lepa Casino 1C Fans largely because of appearance and the LED lighting, although they move slightly more air than the Helix fans at a slightly lower maximum static pressure. I noted no change in temps on the CPU during stress testing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Sorry for the repeat question guys but it seems the more research I do the more hesitation I have. I have a Define R4 that I'd like to front-mount the H220 in (with all hdd cages removed) as an intake. However, I keep reading in this forum something about it being bad to place the reservoir below the pump. I think the H220's radiator is a combo reservoir too right? And so in my setup preference, the reservoir would indeed be below the pump? Is this a no go?


You can mount your radiator in the front of that case, so long as it fits that is. I'm not sure if I've seen anyone attempt to install it in the front of this particular case. Just make sure that when you do install it in the front that you have the reservoir on the radiator sitting up. This way the reservoir will still be able to function as an air trap. As long as you have the reservoir sitting above the radiator you should be good to go. If after you start the kit you find some small air bubbles have moved into the pump you can simply rotate your case so that the bubbles will travel into the reservoir. After this is done you shouldn't have to worry about it again for a few years.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> someone else posted a similar question of whether or not they could use tubing.
> 
> You'll probably have to come up with an adapter of some kind. You can probably make one yourself with a small length of tubing and some fittings to go over the barbs and convert it to the type you need.


Oh, I see!

So leave like an inch of the tubing on the motor's barb, and secure a fitting onto that. Then, attach the copper tube to it?


----------



## ez12a

You got it









Just an example of what you could do:

get your typical barb fitting with 1/4 thread on one end, get something like this (threaded 1/4 female to female):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31011

put your desired G1/4 fitting on that.

it's not "clean", but probably one of the ways you can achieve that.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Anyone know if it's possible to install UV Smartcoils without opening, draining, and disconnecting the H220 loop?

Like these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6621/tsl-27/PrimoChill_Anti-Kink_Coils_-_58_OD_Tubing_-_UV_Brite_Green.html


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone used the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition PWM fans or Cooljag Everflow PWM (R121225BU)?
> Can the this aio cooler handle fans with higher amps like a .40 amp fan?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19642/fan-1239/Corsair_Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_High_Static_Pressure_120mm_PWM_Fan_-_2_Pack_CO-9050014-WW.html?tl=g36c365s936
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c365s936


i use to use those cooljag on an Asetek 570LX (same as the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme) in push/pull they worked well but loud at full speed!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Would this cooler fit in the top of a Corsair Graphite 600t with a Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard. I would really like to get this cooler but if the thermal armour gets in the way... I guess I would have to try something else.


----------



## navit

It fits but the 8pin is tight and the res needs to face down. I have it in my 600 and have no issues or had to make any mods.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> While it did take me a little while to figure out which mounting holes to use!


So you are saying that you did not use the holes that are indented and evenally spaced for the radiator? Cause I sure would like to see a picture of you making it work using these holes in the case that was designed for the radiator with no moding and using a 5.25" rom drive.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> While it did take me a little while to figure out which mounting holes to use!
> 
> 
> 
> So you are saying that you did not use the holes that are indented and evenally spaced for the radiator? Cause I sure would like to see a picture of you making it work using these holes in the case that was designed for the radiator with no moding and using a 5.25" rom drive.
Click to expand...

Yep, those are the holes I used. I'll try to take some close-up photos tonight for ya, but here it is from a distance... no mods required... but, maybe my DVD burner is shorter than others?


----------



## Silvaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can mount your radiator in the front of that case, so long as it fits that is. I'm not sure if I've seen anyone attempt to install it in the front of this particular case. Just make sure that when you do install it in the front that you have the reservoir on the radiator sitting up. This way the reservoir will still be able to function as an air trap. As long as you have the reservoir sitting above the radiator you should be good to go. If after you start the kit you find some small air bubbles have moved into the pump you can simply rotate your case so that the bubbles will travel into the reservoir. After this is done you shouldn't have to worry about it again for a few years.


Thanks for the reply. Think I'm ready to get my feet wet..... (get it?).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Think I'm ready to get my feet wet..... (get it?).


Congratulations and welcome to the club


----------



## Zealon

I ordered my H220 earlier today from Newegg and I expect to see it here by Thursday. I can't wait to finally put this to use on my P9X79 WS board with the 3930K i just got.


----------



## WiSH2oo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Yep, those are the holes I used.


I stand corrected. I thought it was tighter then that when I had first mounted the H220 in the case before I added my second radiator. I could have swore that my hoses were rubbing on the 5.25" bay and adding pressure on my 90 degree fittings. Your case looks nice and clean no doubt.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSH2oo0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Yep, those are the holes I used.
> 
> 
> 
> I stand corrected. I thought it was tighter then that when I had first mounted the H220 in the case before I added my second radiator. I could have swore that my hoses were rubbing on the 5.25" bay and adding pressure on my 90 degree fittings. Your case looks nice and clean no doubt.
Click to expand...

This case really has been awesome to work with. Since that photo was taken, I've upgraded the h220 rad to push/pull, and I'm also about to install two additional closed loops (Zalman LQ320's) up front -- one for each GPU. Those will be push/pull as well, and I've already tested them to ensure they fit without any required mods to the case. Good stuff!


----------



## AlDyer

Ok so I was playing Crysis 3 happily until I saw very high temps and turned off my computer. Now it refuses to reboot and I suspect a pump failure. This would be the 2nd time I have to RMA a H220. Any ideas? I don't really have much patience, since last time I RMA'd I had to wait for a month..

EDIT: CPU is fine, since I got into the BIOS VERY BRIEFLY


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Ok so I was playing Crysis 3 happily until I saw very high temps and turned off my computer. Now it refuses to reboot and I suspect a pump failure. This would be the 2nd time I have to RMA a H220. Any ideas? I don't really have much patience, since last time I RMA'd I had to wait for a month..
> 
> EDIT: CPU is fine, since I got into the BIOS VERY BRIEFLY


Are you plugging the Pump into the motherboard CPU fan header or the included pwm splitter? If you plug it into the CPU fan header, you should get a CPU Fan error in the Bios if it is dead.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Are you plugging the Pump into the motherboard CPU fan header or the included pwm splitter? If you plug it into the CPU fan header, you should get a CPU Fan error in the Bios if it is dead.


Tried both, but I have the error thing turned off and it IS the pump, but can I fix it myself? I don't really want to wait for half a year to get a new one. It is their responsibility. It is in no way my fault that the H220 seems to have high failure rates. I am gonna have to return to my goddamn HYPER 212 EVO again. :S


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Are you plugging the Pump into the motherboard CPU fan header or the included pwm splitter? If you plug it into the CPU fan header, you should get a CPU Fan error in the Bios if it is dead.


Tried both, but I have the error thing turned off and it IS the pump, but can I fix it myself? I don't really want to wait for half a year to get a new one. It is their responsibility. It is in no way my fault that the H220 seems to have high failure rates. I am gonna have to return to my goddamn HYPER 212 EVO again. :S

Oh great quad post FFS...


----------



## Aestylis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Sorry for the repeat question guys but it seems the more research I do the more hesitation I have. I have a Define R4 that I'd like to front-mount the H220 in (with all hdd cages removed) as an intake. However, I keep reading in this forum something about it being bad to place the reservoir below the pump. I think the H220's radiator is a combo reservoir too right? And so in my setup preference, the reservoir would indeed be below the pump? Is this a no go?


It can be done. Your radiator will be upside down, so the reservoir will be at the bottom. I had to leave my rad outside my case on top and slowly work out all air bubbles and top it off. Definitely not a recommended install, but it can and does work.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Tried both, but I have the error thing turned off and it IS the pump, but can I fix it myself? I don't really want to wait for half a year to get a new one. It is their responsibility. It is in no way my fault that the H220 seems to have high failure rates. I am gonna have to return to my...


You can open it up, drain the coolant through a coffee filter to catch any junk in it. Then get some distilled water to flush it for a while to make sure no bits or pieces of anything are stuck in the rads/tubing/pump. Then fill it back up with the coolant, top off with distilled and try it again.


----------



## Silvaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aestylis*
> 
> It can be done. Your radiator will be upside down, so the reservoir will be at the bottom. I had to leave my rad outside my case on top and slowly work out all air bubbles and top it off. Definitely not a recommended install, but it can and does work.


Why wouldn't I be able to install it with the reservoir at the top position? Tubes not reach or something?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Ok so I was playing Crysis 3 happily until I saw very high temps and turned off my computer. Now it refuses to reboot and I suspect a pump failure. This would be the 2nd time I have to RMA a H220. Any ideas? I don't really have much patience, since last time I RMA'd I had to wait for a month..
> 
> EDIT: CPU is fine, since I got into the BIOS VERY BRIEFLY


Sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get this taken care of.


----------



## capitaltpt

The H220 is now showing as discontinued on Newegg's site after briefly coming back into stock yesterday. Are they really discontinued? New model coming out?


----------



## Avonosac

Na, the egg shows discontinued when they are out of stock.

You're good!

Try to see if you can order from microcenter or NCIX (Don't know if they have any in stock).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> The H220 is now showing as discontinued on Newegg's site after briefly coming back into stock yesterday. Are they really discontinued? New model coming out?


Avonosac's right, these aren't discontinued, just out of stock.


----------



## mastahg

Had a clicking noise when I woke up this morning with the one I got from newegg. Contacted email and got a response very quickly. Doing a replacement via crossshipment.


----------



## Aestylis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Why wouldn't I be able to install it with the reservoir at the top position? Tubes not reach or something?


1. Tubes aren't long enough
2. There is a piece of plastic on the bottom of the 5.25' cage that acts as a mount for the HDD cages that interferes with the reservoir portion of the radiator when flipped this way.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> The H220 is now showing as discontinued on Newegg's site after briefly coming back into stock yesterday. Are they really discontinued? New model coming out?


Newegg might be out but you can still get it here: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html. Hope this helps!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aestylis*
> 
> 1. Tubes aren't long enough
> 2. There is a piece of plastic on the bottom of the 5.25' cage that acts as a mount for the HDD cages that interferes with the reservoir portion of the radiator when flipped this way.


You can take the plastic piece out easily enough. You can get longer tubes also. Just sayin.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> Had a clicking noise when I woke up this morning with the one I got from newegg. Contacted email and got a response very quickly. Doing a replacement via crossshipment.


We already shipped it out. If you haven't received a tracking number for it yet, you will shortly.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We already shipped it out. If you haven't received a tracking number for it yet, you will shortly.


I thought the ones that went to new egg and microcenter were intercepted by you guys. I remember reading you guys personally flushed them, why are people still having pump failures?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> I thought the ones that went to new egg and microcenter were intercepted by you guys. I remember reading you guys personally flushed them, why are people still having pump failures?


Just a few ideas on this: New pump design, new manufacturing facility and workers. Those with problems are always more vocal than those not having them, same reason you see more one star reviews than two or three stars.

You'll notice the failures are almost exclusively related to the pump or the filling process, both of which are new processes for the folks at Swiftech, never the radiators. If you look through this thread you'll also notice no attempts to downplay the issues people are having, but a constant willingness to get them fixed. You can flush and test the product all you want, but failures can't be completely avoided.


----------



## rickymartin06

Why the h220 is showing in newegg as discontinued?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickymartin06*
> 
> Why the h220 is showing in newegg as discontinued?


Newegg sometimes marks things as discontinued when they're out of stock. They will get them in again.


----------



## gdubc

They are still in stock here if you really want one: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html


----------



## rickymartin06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Newegg sometimes marks things as discontinued when they're out of stock. They will get them in again.


I have mine already from newegg but I dont get why they have it like that because the evga titan with waterblock is out of stock but not discontinued... it's sad because that affects the product since it doesn appear beyond water cooling with the competitors ( kraken x60 )...


----------



## clspdhax1

Got my H220 cooling my CPU, 2x7870XT GPUs. With just an additional 120mm XP Rad in the loop right after the CPU.
The highest temp on both GPU were less than 40C running uniHeaven or 3DMark loops. CPU remained about the same temp. w/ this setup. So, thanks you guys at ST (Bry & M-elle) for the quick services.

On another note, when my pump first failed, it was running with the fan speed control (in BIOS on) auto, so with that setting, BIOS was controlling the RPM speed which means it could be running lower than spec. (below 1200RPM).
I don't remember exactly about motors/generators (from class) much now, but maybe when it runs too low, the motor would start stuttering/or vibrating. This is just a theory.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clspdhax1*
> 
> On another note, when my pump first failed, it was running with the fan speed control (in BIOS on) auto, so with that setting, BIOS was controlling the RPM speed which means it could be running lower than spec. (below 1200RPM).
> I don't remember exactly about motors/generators (from class) much now, but maybe when it runs too low, the motor would start stuttering/or vibrating. This is just a theory.


as long as its getting a constant 12v it's improbable that it was running below 1200rpm.

If it was, the pump was under 1200 it was probably not controlled by PWM and instead was controlled by voltage which could cause pump failure. That is of course assuming the PWM circuitry was working properly.

if you plug in a 3 pin fan on your CPU header and it changes speed, then your header is voltage controlled.


----------



## MrStick89

My H220 should be here tonight. After reading the last few pages I am wondering if I should flush the radiator? If so what are the steps to doing this ? If I strain the coolant in a coffee filter or something can I reuse it?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> My H220 should be here tonight. After reading the last few pages I am wondering if I should flush the radiator? If so what are the steps to doing this ? If I strain the coolant in a coffee filter or something can I reuse it?


see this video:



except for adding and modifying the GPU block and tubing, the filling process is exactly the same.

as far as reusing the fluid, i dont see why not if its filtered. Supplement it with distilled water as well since you may lose some fluid.


----------



## clspdhax1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> as long as its getting a constant 12v it's improbable that it was running below 1200rpm.
> 
> If it was, the pump was under 1200 it was probably not controlled by PWM and instead was controlled by voltage which could cause pump failure. That is of course assuming the PWM circuitry was working properly.


The motherboard uses 4pins, so it was PWM. But, this doesn't mean it cant put the output RPM lower than 1200. It will constantly get about 12V--as PWM does not adjust the voltage but the "ON/High" of the square-wave. From what I remember, but this can be diff. type of motors, if the pulse-width is too short (the ON/High), some motors will stutter, cease, or vibrate. If this was true for this the H220 pump, it simple means the that there was still a flow, but not a constant one.

ST PWM 8-ways splitter should be fine, more than an likely parallel outputs design, with a constant 12V (from the molex), and just passes on the pulse-width from the "CPU fan1" output.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> My H220 should be here tonight. After reading the last few pages I am wondering if I should flush the radiator? If so what are the steps to doing this ? If I strain the coolant in a coffee filter or something can I reuse it?


Ez12a posted what you can do, but I don't see any reason to do it yet. There is no reason to assume you will have a problem. Just install and test it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> My H220 should be here tonight. After reading the last few pages I am wondering if I should flush the radiator? If so what are the steps to doing this ? If I strain the coolant in a coffee filter or something can I reuse it?


These were all flushed and tested here prior to being shipped. You shouldn't have to do any maintenance to it prior to installing it.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clspdhax1*
> 
> The motherboard uses 4pins, so it was PWM. But, this doesn't mean it cant put the output RPM lower than 1200. It will constantly get about 12V--as PWM does not adjust the voltage but the "ON/High" of the square-wave. From what I remember, but this can be diff. type of motors, if the pulse-width is too short (the ON/High), some motors will stutter, cease, or vibrate. If this was true for this the H220 pump, it simple means the that there was still a flow, but not a constant one.
> 
> ST PWM 8-ways splitter should be fine, more than an likely parallel outputs design, with a constant 12V (from the molex), and just passes on the pulse-width from the "CPU fan1" output.


yes but i believe the built in circuitry on the pump itself allows the PWM signal to go down to a minimum of 1200 and not any lower. If I go 0% in speedfan on my PWM header, the pump still runs at 1200 rpm. The pump is hardwired to run at 1200 rpm minimum given 12v. Unless the PWM circuitry was faulty, it's impossible to run it below 1200 rpm if fed 12v.

and as mentioned before in the thread, not all manufacturers implement 4 pin headers the same. The only way to know for sure is to test it with a 3 pin fan. Asus has been known to have at least one pseudo 4 pin.

of course all of this is negated if used with the splitter. To avoid potential accidental voltage modulation of the pump, use the splitter.


----------



## clspdhax1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yes but i believe the built in circuitry on the pump itself allows the PWM signal to go down to a minimum of 1200 and not any lower. If I go 0% in speedfan on my PWM header, the pump still runs at 1200 rpm. The pump is hardwired to run at 1200 rpm minimum given 12v. Unless the PWM circuitry was faulty, it's impossible to run it below 1200 rpm if fed 12v.
> ..


I see your point. Hopefully that is correct, about the pump. Only the engineers at ST would know what their supplier have provided.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> yes but i believe the built in circuitry on the pump itself allows the PWM signal to go down to a minimum of 1200 and not any lower. If I go 0% in speedfan on my PWM header, the pump still runs at 1200 rpm. The pump is hardwired to run at 1200 rpm minimum given 12v. Unless the PWM circuitry was faulty, it's impossible to run it below 1200 rpm if fed 12v.


I was able to run my pump below 1200 rpm, could be part of the reason of why it failed. I always ran it above 12% on pwm which was roughly 1200 rpm.

New pump should be here tomorrow


----------



## Martinm210

I still think there is something to pump failures and folks plugging the pump directly to motherboards. Using the splitter ensures good 12v power.

Two things I continue to see. People running the reservior up side down without a sepate reservoir or T line to properly trap air and people plugging the pump directly into the motherboard which could stress the pump due to poor power or low voltage. Neither is a good idea IMO.

Just because you can drive on the left side of the road doesn't mean you should..


----------



## Nightz2k

In my case, I can only mount it upside down. Barely fits as it is, but I expected that. Until I get a new case, it's going to have to do. I'm pretty sure even Swiftech says it's OK like that. I'm also using the Splitter it came with, I don't see why not use it, it's convenient IMO.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I still think there is something to pump failures and folks plugging the pump directly to motherboards. Using the splitter ensures good 12v power.
> 
> Two things I continue to see. People running the reservior up side down without a sepate reservoir or T line to properly trap air and people plugging the pump directly into the motherboard which could stress the pump due to poor power or low voltage. Neither is a good idea IMO.
> 
> Just because you can drive on the left side of the road doesn't mean you should..


I've talked with Gabe and Stephen about powering the pump directly off of the motherboard and neither of them see an issue with this. They've informed me that as long as the board is able to provide the necessary 6 Watts and about a half an amp (most boards are able to provide about twice that to their fan headers) then there shouldn't be any issues. Given that information I really don't see why the motherboard couldn't handle powering this pump.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> In my case, I can only mount it upside down. Barely fits as it is, but I expected that. Until I get a new case, it's going to have to do. I'm pretty sure even Swiftech says it's OK like that. I'm also using the Splitter it came with, I don't see why not use it, it's convenient IMO.


The splitter is one of the best aspects of this setup! Running four fans AND the pump off of one PWM header without having to wrestle with several adapters? YES, PLEASE!

I honestly can't think of a good reason not to use it...


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've talked with Gabe and Stephen about powering the pump directly off of the motherboard and neither of them see an issue with this. They've informed me that as long as the board is able to provide the necessary 6 Volts and about a half an amp (most boards are able to provide about twice that to their fan headers) then there shouldn't be any issues. Given that information I really don't see why the motherboard couldn't handle powering this pump.


Having read all of this (but not being an owner) and also having kept track of the technical issues, I get that the engineers say that it's possible - and far be it for me or anyone else on the Interblag to say they're wrong - but if there's a consistent connection between motherboard header installs and deaths, then maybe it's _possible_ to plug in there with no issues, but just something that everyone should avoid.









I mean, maybe there's a deeper cause, maybe the users cause some of this, maybe the dirty first-runs were the big deal....

I know a lot of the newer ones have no problems, and that's very good!









Thanks - T


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> The splitter is one of the best aspects of this setup! Running four fans AND the pump off of one PWM header without having to wrestle with several adapters? YES, PLEASE!
> 
> I honestly can't think of a good reason not to use it...


Exactly! Same here.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've talked with Gabe and Stephen about powering the pump directly off of the motherboard and neither of them see an issue with this. They've informed me that as long as the board is able to provide the necessary 6 Volts and about a half an amp (most boards are able to provide about twice that to their fan headers) then there shouldn't be any issues. Given that information I really don't see why the motherboard couldn't handle powering this pump.


I'm glad to hear this, being able to regulate fan and pump speeds separately is something I couldn't live without. I use the splitter plugged into a system fan header to regulate the fans, and have the pump plugged directly into the CPU fan header.

I will say this though, my pump runs as low as 1060 RPM, can this lead to mechanical failure? If so I can increase the minimum PWM signal in Speedfan until it normalizes at 1200 RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> The splitter is one of the best aspects of this setup! Running four fans AND the pump off of one PWM header without having to wrestle with several adapters? YES, PLEASE!
> 
> I honestly can't think of a good reason not to use it...


Fans and pump independently speed controlled, I've seen no temperature benefit from running the pump at over 50%.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've talked with Gabe and Stephen about powering the pump directly off of the motherboard and neither of them see an issue with this. They've informed me that as long as the board is able to provide the necessary *6 Volts* and about a half an amp (most boards are able to provide about twice that to their fan headers) then there shouldn't be any issues. Given that information I really don't see why the motherboard couldn't handle powering this pump.


Six volts?


----------



## SDBolts619

Final installation pic:

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09468_zpsdbb4de77.jpg.html

System is running like a dream. Unless I happen to receive a couple grand to blow on computer stuff so I can go with Titans under water, I'm done with this build. Now it's time to enjoy it







I am exceptionally happy with my H220 in terms of performance, functionality, quality ans service


----------



## ez12a

i think he meant 6w?


----------



## Ardi

Is there a manufacturing date for the new (supposedly trouble free) batch of h220's?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'm glad to hear this, being able to regulate fan and pump speeds separately is something I couldn't live without. I use the splitter plugged into a system fan header to regulate the fans, and have the pump plugged directly into the CPU fan header.
> 
> I will say this though, my pump runs as low as 1060 RPM, can this lead to mechanical failure? If so I can increase the minimum PWM signal in Speedfan until it normalizes at 1200 RPM.
> Fans and pump independently speed controlled, I've seen no temperature benefit from running the pump at over 50%.


looking at your motherboard manual, by default your CPU fan header is "Automatic" (vs. PWM, or Voltage). Try explicitly setting it to PWM and see if that resolves your minimum RPM issues. If you set speedfan to 0% does your pump shut off?

in my experience Automatic is really Voltage since it "covers" both and Gigabyte says it's compatible with both voltage and pwm fans.








Quote:


> CPU Fan Control Mode
> Auto Lets the BIOS automatically detect the type of CPU fan installed and sets the optimal CPU
> fan control mode. (Default)
> 
> Voltage Sets Voltage mode for a 3-pin CPU fan.
> 
> PWM Sets PWM mode for a 4-pin CPU fan.
> 
> Note: The Voltage mode can be set for a 3-pin CPU fan or a 4-pin CPU fan. However, for a 4-pin CPU
> fan that is not designed following Intel PWMfan specifications, selecting PWMmodemay not effectively
> reduce the fan speed.


i've had problems with gigabyte BIOS in my 790x motherboard where it wouldnt spin up my xigmatek pwm fan right at POST and it would cause the fan failure beep until it spun up by itself. it was probably being voltage controlled.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> looking at your motherboard manual, by default your CPU fan header is "Automatic" (vs. PWM, or Voltage). Try explicitly setting it to PWM and see if that resolves your minimum RPM issues.
> 
> in my experience Automatic is really Voltage since it "covers" both and Gigabyte says it's compatible with both voltage and pwm fans.


Yeah, I've done the UEFI changes, the CPU header can be switched between PWM and Voltage, the other controllable headers are PWM only, and one is always at 12v. It's all currently being controlled through Speedfan, I reconfigured it so that the pump bottoms out at 1200 RPM.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i think he meant 6w?


Oh, yea that makes more sense...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Six volts?


I'm sorry, that's a typo. I meant 6 watts. I'll amend my previous post and thanks for catching that.


----------



## circeseye

i cannot get my pump to run slower then 2100 rpm. im using speedfan and tryed everything. im using the splitter on the cpu header. it not loud by no means actually its very silent. i just dont see the need to run it that fast all the time when it doesnt need to. what am i missing??


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> i cannot get my pump to run slower then 2100 rpm. im using speedfan and tryed everything. im using the splitter on the cpu header. it not loud by no means actually its very silent. i just dont see the need to run it that fast all the time when it doesnt need to. what am i missing??


a few questions:
1. can speedfan control the pump at all? or does it change by itself?

2. Fan control enabled for CPU header in BIOS/UEFI? And is it set to PWM control if possible?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> a few questions:
> 1. can speedfan control the pump at all? or does it change by itself?
> 
> 2. Fan control enabled for CPU header in BIOS/UEFI? And is it set to PWM control if possible?


No to both. You need specific hardware to control the pump speed.
Edit: Actually, i think it is PWM so you might be able to use BIOS or manual fan speed controllor.


----------



## mastahg

Speedfan can control the pump. It depends on the motherboard as some motherboard supply a 4 pin header but don't actually use a PWM signal over the 4th pin. You must not use the pump on these as they use voltage control to control the speed. The pump needs a constant 12Volt to operate properly.

If you cannot control the pump via speedfan make sure of the following:

1)All bios fan control is turned off
2)Inside speedfan make sure PWM mode is set to Manual (http://screencast.com/t/NCm8ttctDW)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> i cannot get my pump to run slower then 2100 rpm. im using speedfan and tryed everything. im using the splitter on the cpu header. it not loud by no means actually its very silent. i just dont see the need to run it that fast all the time when it doesnt need to. what am i missing??


I've just read through the fan settings for your motherboard by downloading the manual. It says that you need to set the CPU Q-Fan Control setting to Manual in order to set the parameters for your pump speeds. This will allow you to adjust the speed of the pump based on the temperature of your CPU. There are four different settings here that can be set for controlling how the speed of the pump will increase based on CPU temperature. You have to have CPU Q-Fan control enabled first in order to select these options and you need to set it to Manual under the CPU Fan Profile. Let me know if this helps solve your issue.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> i cannot get my pump to run slower then 2100 rpm. im using speedfan and tryed everything. im using the splitter on the cpu header. it not loud by no means actually its very silent. i just dont see the need to run it that fast all the time when it doesnt need to. what am i missing??


I think Speedfan defaults to 20% or 30% for the lowest allowable speed. You need to go deeper into the Speedfan settings and change that allowable range to start somewhere lower (0% = 1200rpm). I had to make the same change, but I can't remember where the exact setting was...


----------



## Isewake

i hope the ones from FrozenCPU is ok. Getting mine early next week


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isewake*
> 
> i hope the ones from FrozenCPU is ok. Getting mine early next week


The ones that have been shipped out to resellers most recently have all had the necessary changes implemented to remove the issues with debris and issues related to pump failures. This is evidenced from the sharp reduction in RMA requests that we've received recently. As Gabe has stated previously, we're working to reduce our defect rates to zero.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The ones that have been shipped out to resellers most recently have all had the necessary changes implemented to remove the issues with debris and issues related to pump failures. This is evidenced from the sharp reduction in RMA requests that we've received recently. As Gabe has stated previously, we're working to reduce our defect rates to zero.


When will the H220 make it's way into Westurn Europe?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> I think Speedfan defaults to 20% or 30% for the lowest allowable speed. You need to go deeper into the Speedfan settings and change that allowable range to start somewhere lower (0% = 1200rpm). I had to make the same change, but I can't remember where the exact setting was...


Configure > Speeds tab > pick the one controlling your pump and adjust the minimum.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've talked with Gabe and Stephen about powering the pump directly off of the motherboard and neither of them see an issue with this. They've informed me that as long as the board is able to provide the necessary 6 Watts and about a half an amp (most boards are able to provide about twice that to their fan headers) then there shouldn't be any issues. Given that information I really don't see why the motherboard couldn't handle powering this pump.


The problem is, not all 4 pin motherboard headers are PWM capable, so plugging it in direct runs the risk of feeding the pump lower voltage rather than lower PWM.

Also if the power source is current limited (small PCB traces), it can put extra stress on capacitors. I have personally seen motor run capacitors fry myself on AC motors from using improper extension cords (current and voltage limiting). I smoked the run capacitor on my milling machine because I used an extension cord that was too small. I'm not an electrical guy, but if it matters on AC motors, why couldn't the same thing happen with DC motors. Even if a motherboard CAN handle the 6 watts, it may not be a good healthy power source for a pump.

IMO, bad practice to run pumps off a motherboard header. Call me overly cautious, but I wouldn't do it. As other have said, why do that when the kit comes with the splitter that ensure good solid regulated PSU power direct from the molex. Running 6W of power through hundreds of tiny motherboard traces is not a good idea..IMO People need to use the splitter.

ALSO regarding the inverted reservoir.

BOTH samples I tested had air in them. Despite the new filling system they both had air I could hear very clearly. If you run the reservoir upside down, that means air will be stuck in the system somewhere. If running a pump "Dry" is bad, how can running a pump "Partially Dry" do? I have also withnessed the pump running part full when an air pocket got stuck...very strong trickle noise means the pump cavity is part "dry". If that dryness extends to the bearing surfaces for long periods of time, you have now lost all lubrication and cooling.

IMHO, that reservoir need to be pointed up or a separate reservoir needs to be installed. A simple T-fitting bubble catch will do, but I wouldn't feel good at all without a reservoir or bubble catch working properly. Even if the loop is filled to the brim perfectly, I would think evaporation loss will eventually make that a problem. Tubing is porous and air will eventually enter the system and can cause accelerated oxidation and other problems.

My 2c


----------



## customx

Just wanted to pop in and say I have the H220 hooked up for a little over a week now, at first it was a loud ticking noise coming from the pump, the sound was similar to a fan blade coming into contact with a wire, the pump sorted itself out and is now quiet, after about 48 hrs or so constantly running. I am very satisfied with my purchase and have not had any issues with the unit itself or installing it in a Corsair C70 case.


----------



## ez12a

i have a slight ticking noise only at startup and if i run at minimum 1200 rpm. 1400 rpm and its quiet. temperatures are still great.









(yes i'm using the splitter)


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i have a slight ticking noise only at startup and if i run at minimum 1200 rpm. 1400 rpm and its quiet. temperatures are still great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (yes i'm using the splitter)


I had the trickling noise for about 4 hour of run time, once it stopped I was able to add about 1cc of distilled water. So there really wasn't much air in mine at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Configure > Speeds tab > pick the one controlling your pump and adjust the minimum.


The other thing you want to do is adjust the Warning temperature on the sensor you're using to adjust your speeds, it defaults to 40c. If you don't adjust it, your fans and pump will jump to 100% as soon as it hits that temperature.


----------



## [email protected]

Being an H220 club member has its privileges.. Here is a world premiere of the Komodo HD 7990 being tested in an H220 based system. Just to be clear, the block is connected to an external MCR 220 drive cooler to facilitate its installation/removal for testing/validation purposes..

Notice the stainless steel trimming on the edge of the Komodo block, and Swiftech back-plate.

We can also see the new white tubing (in stock), and the new LokSeal QC-NS non spill fittings (in stock - release over the week-end) .


----------



## circeseye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've just read through the fan settings for your motherboard by downloading the manual. It says that you need to set the CPU Q-Fan Control setting to Manual in order to set the parameters for your pump speeds. This will allow you to adjust the speed of the pump based on the temperature of your CPU. There are four different settings here that can be set for controlling how the speed of the pump will increase based on CPU temperature. You have to have CPU Q-Fan control enabled first in order to select these options and you need to set it to Manual under the CPU Fan Profile. Let me know if this helps solve your issue.


thank you much. see i did miss it the damn setting to manual


----------



## Caos

h220 there will be in amazon.com? Please stock


----------



## Zealon

I finally got my system all ready to go today so here is my H220 push pull setup. I have it connected to the splitter provided and running smoothly.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Got my new pump today, it seems to completely FUBARed.
It is stuck at 3400+ RPM and it is impossible to control it. I have it on the splitter with the rad fans and when I control the PWM in SpeedFan the fans will change RPM but not the pump.
Initially, say the first minute of operation, the pump did run normally but it suddenly stopped then it got stuck full throttle.

I was looking forward to having my PC back, but at this rate I will be buying a different brand of pump on the weekend


----------



## clspdhax1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> Got my new pump today, it seems to completely FUBARed.
> It is stuck at 3400+ RPM and it is impossible to control it. I have it on the splitter with the rad fans and when I control the PWM in SpeedFan the fans will change RPM but not the pump.
> Initially, say the first minute of operation, the pump did run normally but it suddenly stopped then it got stuck full throttle.
> 
> I was looking forward to having my PC back, but at this rate I will be buying a different brand of pump on the weekend


Can you try another 4-pin or 3-pin plug on the motherboard? Some BIOS run the CPU Fan 1 too high, even on auto mode. But, don't allow the BIOS to have any sort of "auto" control on the fan speeds-it should be max. Nothing wrong with the rated speed on the pump--it shouldnt increase failure or anything.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Being an H220 club member has its privileges.. Here is a world premiere of the Komodo HD 7990 being tested in an H220 based system. Just to be clear, the block is connected to an external MCR 220 drive cooler to facilitate its installation/removal for testing/validation purposes..
> 
> Notice the stainless steel trimming on the edge of the Komodo block, and Swiftech back-plate.
> 
> We can also see the new white tubing (in stock), and the new LokSeal QC-NS non spill fittings (in stock - release over the week-end) .


Will the LokSeal fittings introduce air into the loop when you restore the connection?


----------



## TeeBlack

H220 back in stock at Newegg but they up the price to $149.99


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clspdhax1*
> 
> Can you try another 4-pin or 3-pin plug on the motherboard? Some BIOS run the CPU Fan 1 too high, even on auto mode. But, don't allow the BIOS to have any sort of "auto" control on the fan speeds-it should be max. Nothing wrong with the rated speed on the pump--it shouldnt increase failure or anything.


Only have two CPU PWM headers which are linked together, but I could control my previous pump on this setup and it never went over 3000RPM.
Again, when I change the PWM my fans will slow down, but not the pump, even though they are using the same PWM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Just placed my order for the H220 at NCIX Canada H220 $149.99 reg, Price match $132
Newegg.ca has it for $132, but NCIX does price match, so that is a bonus.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> Only have two CPU PWM headers which are linked together, but I could control my previous pump on this setup and it never went over 3000RPM.
> Again, when I change the PWM my fans will slow down, but not the pump, even though they are using the same PWM.


I heard someone earlier say they got one with the wire colors switched around. Worth checking, does the blue and green colors match the fans? If I remeber right I think blue is supposed to be on pin four.?

Should go black-yellow-green-blue = ground-12v-rpm-pwm. If rpm and pwm were reversed some funny things like that could happen I think.


----------



## BradleyW

Has anyone got a H220 that is longer than 5 months old?


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Has anyone got a H220 that is longer than 5 months old?


I have


----------



## Ha-Nocri

If I buy this will it be able to cool my CPU and GPU properly? My GPU temp goes to 88c when OC'ed. I am not that much worried about CPU, it hardly goes above 60c


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I have


Have you made any changes such as refill?


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ha-Nocri*
> 
> If I buy this will it be able to cool my CPU and GPU properly? My GPU temp goes to 88c when OC'ed. I am not that much worried about CPU, it hardly goes above 60c


Are you talking about trying to mount the h220 pump directly on your GPU? (aka "The Red Mod" or "The Blue Mod")

I wouldn't recommend it because the h220 pump and block are much heavier than the cheaper closed loop systems normally used for those mods.

It's also overkill in that situation -- a $40 Zalman, Corsair, or Antec closed loop would make much more sense.

If you're actually talking about adding an additional radiator and GPU waterblock to the loop, then yes, the h220 is a decent foundation for a custom loop.


----------



## Ha-Nocri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Are you talking about trying to mount the h220 pump directly on your GPU? (aka "The Red Mod" or "The Blue Mod")
> 
> I wouldn't recommend it because the h220 pump and block are much heavier than the chehe Blue Mod")
> 
> I wouldn't recommend it because the h220 pump and block are much heavier than the cheaper closed loop systems normally used for those mods.


No, I would mount it on my CPU and mod it for GPU block also.

*EDIT: Does WB even exist for my graphics card?


----------



## paleh0rse14

What card?


----------



## Ha-Nocri

in my sig rig. MSI GTX 580 Lightning XE 3GB

*EDIT: WB exists


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ha-Nocri*
> 
> in my sig rig. MSI GTX 580 Lightning XE 3GB
> 
> *EDIT: WB exists


Here you go:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1209258/unboxing-the-waterblocks-for-my-msi-580gtx-lightnings-56k-warning/0_50

Available here (matte black):
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_20&products_id=2513
and here (stainless steel):
http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_20&products_id=2562


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Have you made any changes such as refill?


Nope left it as it is

overclocked 2500k 4.6 temps - 42-55

Overclocked 3820 4.6 - temps - 50 -60

I did not change anything all stock bought it first day it came out..


----------



## ez12a

you had the h220 in january?


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I heard someone earlier say they got one with the wire colors switched around. Worth checking, does the blue and green colors match the fans? If I remeber right I think blue is supposed to be on pin four.?
> 
> Should go black-yellow-green-blue = ground-12v-rpm-pwm. If rpm and pwm were reversed some funny things like that could happen I think.


The plug seems to be in order, compared it to my old pump.

I bled the system again and occasionally, when I was moving the pump around to get out air bubbles, it would quit working and then start up again, it seemed to be related to my movements. Feels like a wiring issue to me.


----------



## MerkageTurk

I am not sure but when it was released I was one of the first to purchase it


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I am not sure but when it was released I was one of the first to purchase it


Do you control the pump speed?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> h220 there will be in amazon.com? Please stock


No, Swiftech does not have a direct-to-sale contract with Amazon, so if you are going to see it on that site, it will be through a 3rd party that sells with an Amazon storefront.

Thanks - T


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Do you control the pump speed?


Nope i did not do nothing just installed, and installed ai suite and i dont know how to control the pump fans etc


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> Got my new pump today, it seems to completely FUBARed.
> It is stuck at 3400+ RPM and it is impossible to control it. I have it on the splitter with the rad fans and when I control the PWM in SpeedFan the fans will change RPM but not the pump.
> Initially, say the first minute of operation, the pump did run normally but it suddenly stopped then it got stuck full throttle.
> 
> I was looking forward to having my PC back, but at this rate I will be buying a different brand of pump on the weekend


I don't know about the P8Z68, but on the P8Z77 only the CPU headers are true PWM - the fan headers are all a strange hybrid for 3 and 4 pin fans and plugging the splitter into them will cause everything on the splitter to run full speed. This was not mentioned in the P8Z77 manual, but there was an errata on the Asus web site.


----------



## mastahg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> I don't know about the P8Z68, but on the P8Z77 only the CPU headers are true PWM - the fan headers are all a strange hybrid for 3 and 4 pin fans and plugging the splitter into them will cause everything on the splitter to run full speed. This was not mentioned in the P8Z77 manual, but there was an errata on the Asus web site.


It's the same with the p68, if you read them manual for the 68 it lists the pinouts for each of the fan headers, only the cpu fan is true pwm, the chassis fan gets +6v on the 4th pin.


----------



## BradleyW

How do you drain, flush and fill a H220 for long term use without reduced performance, damage or algie?
Cheers.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> I don't know about the P8Z68, but on the P8Z77 only the CPU headers are true PWM - the fan headers are all a strange hybrid for 3 and 4 pin fans and plugging the splitter into them will cause everything on the splitter to run full speed. This was not mentioned in the P8Z77 manual, but there was an errata on the Asus web site.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> It's the same with the p68, if you read them manual for the 68 it lists the pinouts for each of the fan headers, only the cpu fan is true pwm, the chassis fan gets +6v on the 4th pin.


Yep, I'm only using the CPU headers.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How do you drain, flush and fill a H220 for long term use without reduced performance, damage or algie?
> Cheers.


No need too. Unless you plan to expand it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No need too. Unless you plan to expand it.


I'm worried of buying a H220 and having it fail due to small pockets of waste from the Rad, such as small filings and such like.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No need too. Unless you plan to expand it.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm worried of buying a H220 and having it fail due to small pockets of waste from the Rad, such as small filings and such like.
Click to expand...

There is that risk with any watercooling out there.
The new ones right now from Swiftech is being done to prevent that, but it can happen.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is that risk with any watercooling out there.
> The new ones right now from Swiftech is being done to prevent that, but it can happen.


I wonder if any sealed water cooling loops have suffered from particles in the system?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is that risk with any watercooling out there.
> The new ones right now from Swiftech is being done to prevent that, but it can happen.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if any sealed water cooling loops have suffered from particles in the system?
Click to expand...

I've had it on a few of them in the past. only thing is have to RMA it.
Good thing for H220, is you can take apart and drain it and clean it.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Just ordered my Swiftech H220 from newegg today!







Should be getting it Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Just ordered my Swiftech H220 from newegg today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be getting it Monday or Tuesday.


congrats!


----------



## Mattb2e

I just picked one up today, as a replacement for my XSPC 750 Raystorm kit. The pump in the XSPC bay res. failed on me in less than a months time. Im hoping that the Swiftech will hold out much longer than that







.

Ive been using an Antec 620 in the meantime until I got a replacement, now that I have the replacement, I just need to install it







.


----------



## gdubc

I took my kid down to Denver to Elitchs amusement park today and stopped by the microcenter and this is what I saw:


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I took my kid down to Denver to Elitchs amusement park today and stopped by the microcenter and this is what I saw:


I wanted to go to Elitchs when i was out in Ft. Collins but of course the day i was suppose to go it rained


----------



## gdubc

Ha! It was raining today too but we live right by ft. Collins so its a short drive and we took our chances. It cleared up and turned out to be a great day! Plus i got a wd black tb drive for 80 bucks...cant beat that! Gotta love microcenter!


----------



## BradleyW

I'm going to be ordering my H220 today from Holland. It will only take 2 working days to reach my home in the U.K. In England, you can't buy good computer hardware from a store. In our largest retailer, PC world, the best they have is dual core CPU's, very basic air coolers (low profile), plain black small chassis's, cheap PSU's with almost no Amps on the 12V and the best GPU they had, the last time I looked, was a PNY 9800GTX+. I wish I could just go to s shop and pick up a H220 like you guy's can. I was actually in Microcentre (i think) when I was in NY and they had all the latest tech in store! Anyway, what's the best way to drain, flush and fill the H220 and what coolant should I use? Also, what tubing ssize do I need? I am wanting clear tubing.


----------



## mpetroul

Finally~ I got my H220. It has been really great so far. I have dropped about 5-10 C going from my Antec 920 (which is a great cool BTW) The only thing I miss is the little software proggy that comes with the Antec unit, it is small and works really well.

I am trying a few different fan and pump control programs. Does anyone have any preference on what is best for these units?

Thanks!

I will post photos as soon as I can.

I was looking at maybe getting a Koolance TMU unit for control and feedback, but for now speed fan or asus suite and my ADIA LCD monitor is working pretty well.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Anyway, what's the best way to drain, flush and fill the H220 and what coolant should I use? Also, what tubing ssize do I need? I am wanting clear tubing.


check out the first post for videos on disassembling and filling the loop. It's recommended to use Swiftech's Hydrx PM (blue), but distilled should work as well. the GPU expansion video has the method of assembling, filling, and priming.

tubing is 5/8 x 3/8. use anything but Primochill's tubing because it's not to spec.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpetroul*
> 
> I am trying a few different fan and pump control programs. Does anyone have any preference on what is best for these units?
> 
> I was looking at maybe getting a Koolance TMU unit for control and feedback, but for now speed fan or asus suite and my ADIA LCD monitor is working pretty well.


It's not really recommended to control the pump speed through a separate fan controller. Use the motherboard's onboard PWM CPU header for the splitter and pump at the very least. You can use the koolance device for all other fans. Read this article: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx

Speedfan has been very good so far but requires some configuration to work best.


----------



## mpetroul

could you add me please?


----------



## mpetroul

The last one was sideways, sorry. Here is a pic of my H220, It is running great so far.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> check out the first post for videos on disassembling and filling the loop. It's recommended to use Swiftech's Hydrx PM (blue), but distilled should work as well. the GPU expansion video has the method of assembling, filling, and priming.
> 
> tubing is 5/8 x 3/8. use anything but Primochill's tubing because it's not to spec.
> It's not really recommended to control the pump speed through a separate fan controller. Use the motherboard's onboard PWM CPU header for the splitter and pump at the very least. You can use the koolance device for all other fans. Read this article: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> 
> Speedfan has been very good so far but requires some configuration to work best.


You can't buy HydrX in the UK and I can't see it in any EU based stores so could I use Feser one clear rather than distilled water? The only concern I have it that Feser One does not have any librication properties like the HydrX. Is this a concern?

I would use distilled water but It has no lubrication for the pump and it is prone to microbology based growths.

Thank you.


----------



## mpetroul

I want to post a quick pic of my running a burn in test and showing CPU temps. Does what I have look in line with what everyone else sees?

My CPU is a 2600K running with a 43 multi. I usually run at 45, but have been bringing it back up since installing this new cooler,

Thanks,
Mike


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> You can't buy HydrX in the UK and I can't see it in any EU based stores so could I use Feser one clear rather than distilled water? The only concern I have it that Feser One does not have any librication properties like the HydrX. Is this a concern?
> 
> I would use distilled water but It has no lubrication for the pump and it is prone to microbology based growths.
> 
> Thank you.


imo distilled water will be fine if paired with a kill coil and solid colored tubing which will provide you with all of the anti-microbial protection you need. hydrx pm 2 coolant is at least 90% distilled anyway. Only a max of 1.5% of it is something closest to lubrication (Petroleum sodium sulfonate, looking at its ingredients), but is probably used to emulsify the antimicrobial ingredients with water.. not saying that hydrx is snake oil, but for those who dont want to spend money to ship the product might as well just go distilled. the common aquarium pump goes through much dirtier and untreated water without issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpetroul*
> 
> 
> 
> I want to post a quick pic of my running a burn in test and showing CPU temps. Does what I have look in line with what everyone else sees?
> 
> My CPU is a 2600K running with a 43 multi. I usually run at 45, but have been bringing it back up since installing this new cooler,
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


looks fine.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> imo distilled water will be fine if paired with a kill coil and solid colored tubing which will provide you with all of the anti-microbial protection you need. hydrx pm 2 coolant is at least 90% distilled anyway. Only a max of 1.5% of it is something closest to lubrication (Petroleum sodium sulfonate, looking at its ingredients), but is probably used to emulsify the antimicrobial ingredients with water.. not saying that hydrx is snake oil, but for those who dont want to spend money to ship the product might as well just go distilled. the common aquarium pump goes through much dirtier and untreated water without issues.
> looks fine.


What is the best location to house the silver coil without degrading performance or causing some sort of failure?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the best location to house the silver coil without degrading performance or causing some sort of failure?


i have mine in the output line of the pump, so in case it somehow moves it'll just stop at the barb going to the radiator. I wouldnt avise putting it in the lines flowing directly into the pump.

since my kit is modified, i have it in the return line going from the GPU block exit to the radiator/res intake. You can twist or shape the coil so it fits snugly inside the tubing.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i have mine in the output line of the pump, so in case it somehow moves it'll just stop at the barb going to the radiator. I wouldnt avise putting it in the lines flowing directly into the pump.
> 
> since my kit is modified, i have it in the return line going from the GPU block exit to the radiator/res intake. You can twist or shape the coil so it fits snugly inside the tubing.


Will a silver coil affect performance?
Also, I can't seem to find that sized tubing in the UK? I was hoping to use clear tubing or tubing with a slight colour tint.

Thank you.


----------



## Pocky4Th3Win

Just installed mine today and im a bit worried, my pump is really loud...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Will a silver coil affect performance?
> Also, I can't seem to find that sized tubing in the UK? I was hoping to use clear tubing or tubing with a slight colour tint.
> 
> Thank you.


nope. temps have been as good as they were with the kit in stock form. Plus i'm far from the only one who is using a kill coil in water cooling in general.

someone in the UK can probably help you recommend a reseller for tubing. I'm from the US.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> nope. temps have been as good as they were with the kit in stock form. Plus i'm far from the only one who is using a kill coil in water cooling in general.
> 
> someone in the UK can probably help you recommend a reseller for tubing. I'm from the US.


Thanks for the help so far. What should I do to prevent corrosion? How do I replace the rad for a larger one. By this, do I need barbs and fittings? I was thinking of getting the alpha cool 360mm full copper white coated special edition.

Sorry for all the questions and thank you for the help.


----------



## MerkageTurk

how do i use speed fan etc to control the fans through bios etc

edit: I have all my fans attached to the 8 way splitter how do i control the speed of the fans + pump ?


----------



## BradleyW

Would all this work together?
Thanks!

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-360mm-Triple-Radiator-Full-Copper--White-Special-Edition-pid-17395.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-10-16mm-Tubing--Silver-pid-15786.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-17411.html

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-38-ID---58-OD-10-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Clear-pid-6743.html


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> how do i use speed fan etc to control the fans through bios etc
> 
> edit: I have all my fans attached to the 8 way splitter how do i control the speed of the fans + pump ?


I can do a video of this since this comes up a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would all this work together?
> Thanks!


Looks like it'll work. Pretty much the things you keep in mind when expanding the kit are tube size (5/8 x 3/8), barb/fitting size (5/8 x 3/8), and thread size G1/4. Everything is up to you at that point as the user (radiator/case compatibility, etc.). This is my first time going custom and it was straight forward. Reading threads months ago I was confused with all the fittings and tube sizes and what to use. This kit makes it easy.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pocky4Th3Win*
> 
> Just installed mine today and im a bit worried, my pump is really loud...


Probably an air bubble in the cpu block/pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpetroul*
> 
> could you add me please?


All you have to do is fill out the form in the original post







.


----------



## BradleyW

I have noticed some fittings and tubes are listed as 5/8 3/8 and 3/8 5/8. Are these different measurements? How do you know the size of the h220 tubing? Also, how much of an improvement will I see by swapping the rad with the one I linked?

Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have noticed some fittings and tubes are listed as 5/8 3/8 and 3/8 5/8. Are these different measurements? How do you know the size of the h220 tubing? Also, how much of an improvement will I see by swapping the rad with the one I linked?
> 
> Thanks.


They are the same. The smallest fraction is the inner diameter, aka the the diameter of the opening in the center. The larger fraction is the outer diameter, aka the overall diameter of the tubing. For compression fittings, it's listed for the tubing it fits, not the size of the fitting itself, so all you have to is match the compression sizes to the tubing sizes. As mentioned before though, Primochill tubing does not fit Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings. It does fit a number of other fittings, such as Monsoons, which is what I used in my previous build with Primoichill LRT tubing. I also believe the clamps onm the H220 will fit the Primo 3/8x5/8 tubing but that's just a guess.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> They are the same. The smallest fraction is the inner diameter, aka the the diameter of the opening in the center. The larger fraction is the outer diameter, aka the overall diameter of the tubing. For compression fittings, it's listed for the tubing it fits, not the size of the fitting itself, so all you have to is match the compression sizes to the tubing sizes. As mentioned before though, Primochill tubing does not fit Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings. It does fit a number of other fittings, such as Monsoons, which is what I used in my previous build with Primoichill LRT tubing. I also believe the *clamps on the H220 will fit the Primo 3/8x5/8 tubing* but that's just a guess.


I can confirm that the clamps do fit on Primo 3/8x5/8 tubing


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would all this work together?
> Thanks!
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-360mm-Triple-Radiator-Full-Copper--White-Special-Edition-pid-17395.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-10-16mm-Tubing--Silver-pid-15786.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-17411.html
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-38-ID---58-OD-10-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Clear-pid-6743.html


I dont see an issue with those. As you know with the case you have, only 4 screws can be used to mount the rad on top.

As you see here, depending on the direction of the barbs. Toward front only Red will be screwed. Towards rear facing, will be green mounting.
The rest is only screwed into the fans. So a 360 rad in the HAF X will have 4 screws used to mount the rad.
If you doing push/pull you need to make sure you get the correct screw length.


----------



## BradleyW

Rep+ to all.
How much of a temp difference would I see by moving up to this bigger Rad?


----------



## Mattb2e

Has anyone played around with fans on the H220? I haven't installed it yet, and would like to know if some of the fans I have would show any improvement over the included PWM fans. I have 2 Yate Loon D12SH fans (88CFM, not sure about static pressure, very loud), and 2 Aerocool Shark fans (82CFM 1.273mm-H2O, much quieter).

Would either of these two fans provide better performance compared to the included fans, or would either of these two fans offer better performance through a mismatched push pull configuration?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Rep+ to all.
> How much of a temp difference would I see by moving up to this bigger Rad?


If you can't get the Swiftech coolant, then I would go with distilled and a good additive. I am using Primochill Liquid Utopia:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13066/ex-liq-164/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_Bomb_Bottle_-_15mL_-_Clear_PCLUBT-CLR.html?tl=g30c103s186&id=hsqTX2F9

From everything I have read, and been told, I would recommend against a silver kill coil. I know many people use them without issue, but that can conflict with anything nickel in your loop and it doesn't help with anti-corrosion. 10 different knowledgeable people will give you 10 different answers for water cooling coolant, just look at some threads here, so I just took what I read and was told and ended up with distilled and Utopia. So far the results are very good, but only time will tell. Probably depends on how lazy I am in a good flushing and replacement schedule.

Going from a 220 rad to a 360 rad will give you a few degrees, but it depends on a ton of variables. A guess would be in the 3c range, but it depends a lot on your fans, and your exact loop. More rad is better, but with diminishing returns.

I have a 220, 320, and 140 rads with a really hot cpu, and two really hot gpus (on one card) and I have very nice temps. I don't think the 140 rad helped all that much though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Has anyone played around with fans on the H220? I haven't installed it yet, and would like to know if some of the fans I have would show any improvement over the included PWM fans. I have 2 Yate Loon D12SH fans (88CFM, not sure about static pressure, very loud), and 2 Aerocool Shark fans (82CFM 1.273mm-H2O, much quieter).
> 
> Would either of these two fans provide better performance compared to the included fans, or would either of these two fans offer better performance through a mismatched push pull configuration?


I can't comment specifically on those fans, but I can say the stock H220 rad is designed for slower rpm fans which is perfect for those that like quiet. If you don't care about sound then a rad designed for high speed fans would perform a little better.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I can't comment specifically on those fans, but I can say the stock H220 rad is designed for slower rpm fans which is perfect for those that like quiet. If you don't care about sound then a rad designed for high speed fans would perform a little better.


Im not concerned with noise as much as I am with heat dissipation. If faster fans offer better heat dissipation, and therefore lower temps, than I can live with a little noise. However if the difference between the PWM fans that come included and what I have that I could replace the fans with (or run push pull) offer no tangible improvement, I will just stick with the stock fans.

I have no intentions of adding another radiator, or a larger one for that matter, only because the cost would not justify the results. I am fairly certain that adding an additional radiator, or a thicker one would hit the point of diminishing returns.The cost would not justify the results, especially since I have not delidded and I will run into a thermal wall before the cooler could offer any additional benefit. This is mainly because I plan on keeping the setup strictly limited to the CPU.

If I were to go with a GPU block, I would add another 240mm radiator, but I don't see that happening anytime soon.


----------



## gdubc

I have a quick question for Gabe or Bramsli1; I am wondering if you guys are going to make a 140mm version of the h220 anytime soon, or at least maybe a 4 pin helix 140mm with some decent static pressure? I have a define r4 and would love to find some decent 4pin 140mm fans for it and a bunch of big helix fans would look sweet in there!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have a quick question for Gabe or Bramsli1; I am wondering if you guys are going to make a 140mm version of the h220 anytime soon, or at least maybe a 4 pin helix 140mm with some decent static pressure? I have a define r4 and would love to find some decent 4pin 140mm fans for it and a bunch of big helix fans would look sweet in there!


I heard they were down the road for 140mm PWM.
There is quiet a few good fans for 140mm PWM. Gelid has the Silent 12 & 14 PWM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Im not concerned with noise as much as I am with heat dissipation. If faster fans offer better heat dissipation, and therefore lower temps, than I can live with a little noise. However if the difference between the PWM fans that come included and what I have that I could replace the fans with (or run push pull) offer no tangible improvement, I will just stick with the stock fans.
> 
> I have no intentions of adding another radiator, or a larger one for that matter, only because the cost would not justify the results. I am fairly certain that adding an additional radiator, or a thicker one would hit the point of diminishing returns.The cost would not justify the results, especially since I have not delidded and I will run into a thermal wall before the cooler could offer any additional benefit. This is mainly because I plan on keeping the setup strictly limited to the CPU.
> 
> If I were to go with a GPU block, I would add another 240mm radiator, but I don't see that happening anytime soon.


The difference you see in changing fans is little. 1-2c is the average difference.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Im not concerned with noise as much as I am with heat dissipation. If faster fans offer better heat dissipation, and therefore lower temps, than I can live with a little noise. However if the difference between the PWM fans that come included and what I have that I could replace the fans with (or run push pull) offer no tangible improvement, I will just stick with the stock fans.
> I have no intentions of adding another radiator, or a larger one for that matter, only because the cost would not justify the results. I am fairly certain that adding an additional radiator, or a thicker one would hit the point of diminishing returns.The cost would not justify the results, especially since I have not delidded and I will run into a thermal wall before the cooler could offer any additional benefit. This is mainly because I plan on keeping the setup strictly limited to the CPU.
> If I were to go with a GPU block, I would add another 240mm radiator, but I don't see that happening anytime soon.


Stock fans are fine, and they can be ramped up to a high rpm if you want. With the stock rad made for slower fans you will only get a slight improvement with others fans or a push/pull setup. It depends on what you want. If another 2 or 3c is a big deal, then go push pull with the fans and run them at a higher rpm. If money is an issue, then just the stock H220 as is does a fine job with nothing extra.

You are right that the only real way to lower Ivy temps is delidding, but I understand that is not for everyone.


----------



## gdubc

Those Gelid fans arent very high static pressure are they? I have bgears bblasters,which are great on a rad, however, being 3 pin they cant be controlled off my cpu header like i would like. They just run full blast...ers.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The difference you see in changing fans is little. 1-2c is the average difference.


The only reason I ask is because I recall seeing a review in which the reviewer showed a marked improvement between the stock fans and a set of other fans ( I don't recall which ones). In that particular review, the H100I or H110, not sure which one, was performing better than the H220 stock. With the fans swapped out, the H220 pulled ahead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Stock fans are fine, and they can be ramped up to a high rpm if you want. With the stock rad made for slower fans you will only get a slight improvement with others fans or a push/pull setup. It depends on what you want. If another 2 or 3c is a big deal, then go push pull with the fans and run them at a higher rpm. If money is an issue, then just the stock H220 as is does a fine job with nothing extra.
> 
> You are right that the only real way to lower Ivy temps is delidding, but I understand that is not for everyone.


Ok, this seems to be the answer I was looking for, you and Sp33d Junki3 seem to have the same answer, and it seems like a realistic one at that. Rather than waste time with uninstalling and reinstalling different fans and such, ill just stick with the stock compliment. Unless someone has some information that will offer results contrary to this 2c-3c figure.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Ok, this seems to be the answer I was looking for, you and Sp33d Junki3 seem to have the same answer, and it seems like a realistic one at that. Rather than waste time with uninstalling and reinstalling different fans and such, ill just stick with the stock compliment. Unless someone has some information that will offer results contrary to this 2c-3c figure.


There is many variables, internal airflow, ambient temps, push/pull setup... too many to mention and explain.
The only way to get big temp difference is too use high powered fans at full 12v.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Those Gelid fans arent very high static pressure are they? I have bgears bblasters,which are great on a rad, however, being 3 pin they cant be controlled off my cpu header like i would like. They just run full blast...ers.


The bgears bblasters are not good, there stats are not what they say, hey are way off . Plus terrible build quality.


----------



## Robbieladd

That should read 6 watts, not 6 volts.


----------



## ez12a

Those wanting to know how to configure SpeedFan, i made a "quick" video here:



sorry for the quality in the 2nd portion. Xsplit wont record in a higher quality and I dont want to pay for fraps


----------



## gdubc

[/quote]
The bgears bblasters are not good, there stats are not what they say, hey are way off . Plus terrible build quality.[/quote]
I know the stats aren't what they say I don't know of many fans that are. But I do know running full blast they seem to pushe as much air through my radiator that the Corsair sp120s do and they run more quietly than the single 140 millimeter NZXT fan that came with the Kraken and that's at full blast. Other than the bearings they don't seem anymore cheaply made than the Corsairs but I've only had them a little while. I don't know if they will last. Did you have some and did they die on you?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> The only reason I ask is because I recall seeing a review in which the reviewer showed a marked improvement between the stock fans and a set of other fans ( I don't recall which ones). In that particular review, the H100I or H110, not sure which one, was performing better than the H220 stock. With the fans swapped out, the H220 pulled ahead.
> Ok, this seems to be the answer I was looking for, you and Sp33d Junki3 seem to have the same answer, and it seems like a realistic one at that. Rather than waste time with uninstalling and reinstalling different fans and such, ill just stick with the stock compliment. Unless someone has some information that will offer results contrary to this 2c-3c figure.


The only reason I would change the fans out is if a different fan had a preferable noise profile, or I happened to have some NF-F12's just laying around, as they seem to be the only fan with more than a 2c improvement.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Double post error.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know the stats aren't what they say I don't know of many fans that are. But I do know running full blast they seem to pushe as much air through my radiator that the Corsair sp120s do and they run more quietly than the single 140 millimeter NZXT fan that came with the Kraken and that's at full blast. Other than the bearings they don't seem anymore cheaply made than the Corsairs but I've only had them a little while. I don't know if they will last. Did you have some and did they die on you?


From Corsair and Bgears are different. Motor on Corsair is of higher quality. The price going for the Bgears blaster is too high. Should be no more than $9 for the fans.
I did have a bunch, just after a few problems no longer stock them. That was all within a 5 month period.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The only reason I would change the fans out is if a different fan had a preferable noise profile, or I happened to have some NF-F12's just laying around, as they seem to be the only fan with more than a 2c improvement.


NF-F12 is more designed to be used as push only. Pull is not so good, and will have a weird noise profile. With the Helix from H220 I like the sound it makes against a rad, heatsink and case. Has a deeper tone compared to others I have here.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> From Corsair and Bgears are different. Motor on Corsair is of higher quality. The price going for the Bgears blaster is too high. Should be no more than $9 for the fans.
> I did have a bunch, just after a few problems no longer stock them. That was all within a 5 month period.


Thanks for the info. I paid $10 apiece for them I'm glad I paid no more but all I read at the time were people singing the praises of how good they were. And I figured for $10 a fan they're worth a shot compared to the price of said Corsair. I knew the motor and bearings of course would be different but I figured for the price difference it was worth a shot.


----------



## Mattb2e

I wound up mounting 2 Yate loons in pull, in conjunction with the 2 stock fans. My reasoning is because I was not keen on bringing hot air into the case, as I prefer to exhaust it. Unfortunately, the H220 does not come with screws that will allow you to mount the radiator in an exhaust position, and I did not have a screw driver with a shaft thin enough to remove the stock fans to switch them. So with this discovery, I decided to just use the Yate loons for now, even if its just temporary.

The sad part is that the H220 is performing almost identically to the Antec Kuhler 620 I had installed prior. I am only noticing a 2c drop at load, stock clocks on the CPU. I fear that the TIM installed on the CPU die is to blame for this. The XSPC kit I was originally running (before the pump failed prematurely) performed slightly better, but not by much.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> NF-F12 is more designed to be used as push only. Pull is not so good, and will have a weird noise profile. With the Helix from H220 I like the sound it makes against a rad, heatsink and case. Has a deeper tone compared to others I have here.


I picked up a pair of 120mm fan gaskets at Microcenter, but they won't fit. Not sure why the insist on putting a lip on the damn things...may just trim them. Really a shame neither Newegg, Amazon or Microcenter have 2x120mm radiator gaskets.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I picked up a pair of 120mm fan gaskets at Microcenter, but they won't fit. Not sure why the insist on putting a lip on the damn things...may just trim them. Really a shame neither Newegg, Amazon or Microcenter have 2x120mm radiator gaskets.


is this what you looking for?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=36363


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> is this what you looking for?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=36363


Yeah, a few places have them, just nowhere I already have an account. I think I'd need longer screws as well, I only get one turn out of the included screws if I use one of the silicon gaskets I have.

Edit: It would also create an air gap, as I want to use it for the fans. Tried to find some 1/32 thick adhesive foam, but it's all double sided.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

XSPC
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=RJVsfwZg&searchspec=XSPC+120+gasket&go.x=0&go.y=0

Phobya
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=RJVsfwZg&searchspec=Phobya+120mm+Gasket&go.x=0&go.y=0

I have the 120mm Phobya gasket 5mm thick. I got 4 of them waiting to be used on the H220.
Here is a list of screws selection.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I have the 120mm Phobya gasket 5mm thick. I got 4 of them waiting to be used on the H220.
> Here is a list of screws selection.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html


What thread pitch should I be looking for?

I got a pair of these cheap Coolerguys gaskets, not sure if I can cut this lip off without ruining them, but worth a shot.


----------



## dsmwookie

Are you running the yates/helix fans in push pull together or separate? I was running som cheap CM fans and Helix's and they actually made the temp worse. I switched to all Helix fans and dropped 10C.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Are you running the yates/helix fans in push pull together or separate? I was running som cheap CM fans and Helix's and they actually made the temp worse. I switched to all Helix fans and dropped 10C.


Miss matched fans can do weird things to your air flow.

Edit: Silicon gasket cutting has failed. lol


----------



## Syfi

I have 2 scenarios I can use to mount my H220 into an Azza Genesis 9000W Full Tower Case (White) and was wondering which would be the best route to take!

Scenario 1: The board (ASRock Z77 OC Formula) can be mounted "upside down" or rather facing the right side of the case w/ the CPU at the bottom and the GPU toward the top. The H220 would get mounted at the bottom replacing the 2ea 140mm bottom intake fans that came with the case, and would draw cooler outside air into the case from the bottom through the rad. It will be cooling only the CPU for now and the board's integrated water coolable power rail later on. I have 4 ea. Helix -or- 4 ea. Gentle Typhoons to use in a push/pull on the rad. This would also place the GPU (a single MSI R7850 Twin Frozr OC AMD Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5) up top next to the twin 230mm top exhaust fans that also comes with the case. I can then mount the twin 140s on the side panel to add a little more positive pressure intake.

Scenario 2: I can rotate the MB tray to the conventional position (facing the left side) w/ the CPU toward the top of the case and mount the H220 up top, replacing the twin 230mm fans, and use one of the 230s on the side panel as an intake with the case air getting exhausted through the rad on top of the case and leaving the twin bottom 140s as intakes on the bottom.

I'm leaning toward the bottom mount as it would bring cooler air in through the rad as opposed to exhausting hotter case air though the top mounted rad.
Was wondering if there's any preference between the top and bottom mount placement as far as the rad/pump performance goes.

Decisions, decisions! Would greatly appreciate every ones thoughts!


----------



## Semper Fidelis

I got an extra set of Corsair SP120's to do a push/pull setup but none of the screws work with these fans because of the rubber material on the corners.

So my question is what are the specifications of the screws used to mount the fans and is it something that I can find at a local hardware store? Or will I have to order it online? Also how specific of a length can I get?


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Hi guys, I am new to this thread but I would love to know what's going on with stock around the world as places like the UK still after two months don't have them in stock and Its making me so twitchy I have been waiting for it so long now some info on this would be nice thanks


----------



## Ardi

I bought mine from Microcenter on Friday. The pump was very loud because of trapped air bubbles.
After flushing and bleeding the system, the pump started making a clicking sound. I just got disgusted and returned the thing to Microcenter the next day.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I wound up mounting 2 Yate loons in pull, in conjunction with the 2 stock fans. My reasoning is because I was not keen on bringing hot air into the case, as I prefer to exhaust it. Unfortunately, the H220 does not come with screws that will allow you to mount the radiator in an exhaust position, and I did not have a screw driver with a shaft thin enough to remove the stock fans to switch them. So with this discovery, I decided to just use the Yate loons for now, even if its just temporary.
> 
> The sad part is that the H220 is performing almost identically to the Antec Kuhler 620 I had installed prior. I am only noticing a 2c drop at load, stock clocks on the CPU. I fear that the TIM installed on the CPU die is to blame for this. The XSPC kit I was originally running (before the pump failed prematurely) performed slightly better, but not by much.


Unfortunately you are trying to fight physics on this one.

You want to pull cool air through the radiator and push the hot air out of it, the best way to do this is to have your radiator as an intake. As long as you have a decent exhaust in the case you will see far better temps as an intake.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Unfortunately you are trying to fight physics on this one.
> 
> You want to pull cool air through the radiator and push the hot air out of it, the best way to do this is to have your radiator as an intake. As long as you have a decent exhaust in the case you will see far better temps as an intake.


I'm not sure what you mean by fighting physics, but I can understand where you are going with your statement. the major issue is that if I run the radiator in the opposite direction it will allow a great deal of dust to accumulate in the radiator relatively quickly. this is why I would prefer to exhaust the hot air from the top of the case rather than into the case. being that there seems to be no difference between having the two yate loons on or off, I will just keep them off for the time being and use them as placeholders until I can either get another set of fans, or switch the direction of the existing ones and eliminating the yates.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by fighting physics, but I can understand where you are going with your statement. the major issue is that if I run the radiator in the opposite direction it will allow a great deal of dust to accumulate in the radiator relatively quickly. this is why I would prefer to exhaust the hot air from the top of the case rather than into the case. being that there seems to be no difference between having the two yate loons on or off, I will just keep them off for the time being and use them as placeholders until I can either get another set of fans, or switch the direction of the existing ones and eliminating the yates.


Thermodynamics, to be more specific.

The cooling capacity of a heat transfer system is not a linear equation. You are able to transfer more heat out of the water of the loop when there is a larger difference between the temperature of your water and the temperature of the air you pass through the radiator. Your case will have warmer air in it, and therefor the H220, and your Khuler, or any other radiator based system will cool less efficiently, than if you had used it as an intake.

If dust is your issue, I would advise getting a dust filter, and using fans in push / pull to increase the airflow to cover the filter. Always match the fans you use in push pull to avoid bad airflow situations, or damage to the fans.

Your case temperatures will be higher, but that doesn't matter you aren't air cooling, you're water cooling. Your primary goal is to cool the water in the loop, after that just exhaust the warmer air with 1 fan somewhere, and you will have great results.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I bought mine from Microcenter on Friday. The pump was very loud because of trapped air bubbles.
> After flushing and bleeding the system, the pump started making a clicking sound. I just got disgusted and returned the thing to Microcenter the next day.


The trapped air goes away after a day.
The clicking noise is different? How and what did you do to flush the system out with?


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Thermodynamics, to be more specific.
> 
> The cooling capacity of a heat transfer system is not a linear equation. You are able to transfer more heat out of the water of the loop when there is a larger difference between the temperature of your water and the temperature of the air you pass through the radiator. Your case will have warmer air in it, and therefor the H220, and your Khuler, or any other radiator based system will cool less efficiently, than if you had used it as an intake.
> 
> If dust is your issue, I would advise getting a dust filter, and using fans in push / pull to increase the airflow to cover the filter. Always match the fans you use in push pull to avoid bad airflow situations, or damage to the fans.
> 
> Your case temperatures will be higher, but that doesn't matter you aren't air cooling, you're water cooling. Your primary goal is to cool the water in the loop, after that just exhaust the warmer air with 1 fan somewhere, and you will have great results.


How would having the third fan position in the ceiling of my case effect this principle? right now there is a vacant hole where a third 120mm fan would go, and the spaces between the fan mounts and the 200m fan opening (2 200mm fans that have fan mounts that make 3 120mm fan mounting possible).

Filtration, while it will definitely help with the dust, it will also be very cumbersome to maintain. I believe there may be a clearance issue with the top grill and the fan mounts that would require me to install filters between the fans and the mount, which would require dis-assembly of the radiator and fans every couple of weeks in order to keep the filters clean, and prevent dust buildup and restriction as a result of the dust.

The only way around this would be to find a very low profile fan filter that can be installed in-between the top of the fan mount and the grille assembly.

I would think that the rear 120mm fan should take care of the hot air from the radiator, however there may be dead spots in my case due to its size, would this affect my GPU temps as well? My GPU tends to run a little on the hot side generally, even with the addition of an Antec spot cool to direct the intake airflow to the GPU intake.

Sorry for the amount of questions I am asking haha.


----------



## AdamMT

I highly recommend this fan filter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11723/ffi-51/DEMCiflex_Dual_120mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Dual_Radiator_or_Fans_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s548

It's extremely easy to deal with since it just sticks to the top of the case via flexible magnetic frame. Temperatures are about 3-4 warmer with it in place (stock fans), but I just pull it off if I'm going to be running at 100%. In my case that's probably less than 10% of the time, so I'm not too worried about dust.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> How would having the third fan position in the ceiling of my case effect this principle? right now there is a vacant hole where a third 120mm fan would go, and the spaces between the fan mounts and the 200m fan opening (2 200mm fans that have fan mounts that make 3 120mm fan mounting possible).
> 
> Filtration, while it will definitely help with the dust, it will also be very cumbersome to maintain. I believe there may be a clearance issue with the top grill and the fan mounts that would require me to install filters between the fans and the mount, which would require dis-assembly of the radiator and fans every couple of weeks in order to keep the filters clean, and prevent dust buildup and restriction as a result of the dust.
> 
> The only way around this would be to find a very low profile fan filter that can be installed in-between the top of the fan mount and the grille assembly.
> 
> I would think that the rear 120mm fan should take care of the hot air from the radiator, however there may be dead spots in my case due to its size, would this affect my GPU temps as well? My GPU tends to run a little on the hot side generally, even with the addition of an Antec spot cool to direct the intake airflow to the GPU intake.
> 
> Sorry for the amount of questions I am asking haha.


The idea is to add all fans as intake, and then a single exhaust to vent the heat. You want to create good airflow and positive pressure. If you have pockets of dead air, it wouldn't hurt to add a fan to move the air, the best would be to add intakes.

As for the top fan, you would probably be best to use that as an intake as well, and use the rear for the exhaust because you don't want to create a cross stream just sitting above your CPU. I take it your GPU is not in a WC loop, you are just using the H220 as an AIO. If so, you need to worry a little about the case temps, and a little about the water temps. I would advise making sure you clear the air towards the back of the case from any dead spots, while still maintaining intake on the radiator. Cleaning a filter off should be nothing more than removing it and blowing the dust off with a can of air or air compressor. If you need to do much more, I would advise placing the filter somewhere it would be easily accessible to prevent the cleaning from being much of a chore.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I highly recommend this fan filter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11723/ffi-51/DEMCiflex_Dual_120mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Dual_Radiator_or_Fans_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s548
> 
> It's extremely easy to deal with since it just sticks to the top of the case via flexible magnetic frame. Temperatures are about 3-4 warmer with it in place (stock fans), but I just pull it off if I'm going to be running at 100%. In my case that's probably less than 10% of the time, so I'm not too worried about dust.


The issue with that is that the fan openings at the top of my case are designed for 2 200mm fans (or 230mm, cant remember). So with this said, I would have a gap between the 120mm fan mounts, as well as the vacant space where a third fan would go if I were to use 120mm fan filters. If I just stuck them on top of the mesh at the top, it would just go around the filter and still bring dust into the case. Additionally im fairly certain that if I installed that between the fans and the mesh grille, I would not be able to install the mesh grille. There is very little space in between the mesh grill and the top of the fan mount.

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/2.jpg
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/8.jpg


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> The issue with that is that the fan openings at the top of my case are designed for 2 200mm fans (or 230mm, cant remember). So with this said, I would have a gap between the 120mm fan mounts, as well as the vacant space where a third fan would go if I were to use 120mm fan filters. If I just stuck them on top of the mesh at the top, it would just go around the filter and still bring dust into the case. Additionally im fairly certain that if I installed that between the fans and the mesh grille, I would not be able to install the mesh grille. There is very little space in between the mesh grill and the top of the fan mount.
> 
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/2.jpg
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/8.jpg


Didnt like the Demiflex, very restrictive and very little difference in dust.
What you can do in your case, is get a bracket that would screw the length of the existing 230mm mounting holes.
Then you would mount the H220 onto the bracket.
Contact Coolermaster and see if they can send you one.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Stupid UPS. Checked my tracking number this morning, was excited to find out it suppose to come today. So I waited and waited for the UPS man. So 3 o'clock rolls by and he's still not here. Checked my tracking number again, and they changed it to tomorrow.


----------



## Ardi

I followed the youtube video, posted somewhere here on this thread, on how to flush the system to the tee using HydrX PM 2 Coolant. I think the loud whooshing sound caused by the trapped air was masking out the clicking sound of the pump that was there already.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> I followed the youtube video, posted somewhere here on this thread, on how to flush the system to the tee using HydrX PM 2 Coolant. I think the loud whooshing sound caused by the trapped air was masking out the clicking sound of the pump that was there already.


Something happened during the flushing and cleaning.
If left as is when you bought it, that sound would be gone over time.


----------



## $ilent

Still cant buy this in the UK...cmon swiftech?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Something happened during the flushing and cleaning.
> If left as is when you bought it, that sound would be gone over time.


I had a trickle sound for a couple of hours, gave the hoses a few flicks with my index finger and that was that. Added about 1cc of distilled to top it off and it's been running flawlessly since then.

Flushing the system should be a last resort, but I don't think everyone moving from air or CLC's are prepared for the initial noise as the system works the air out. Had I not been keeping up with this forum for a month prior to getting mine, I'd have thought there was a problem with my unit.

Another issue that needs to be highlighted is BIOS/UEFI configuration, to ensure the unit it operating under PWM and not voltage control. Those used to the "Plug and Play" nature of air coolers may not realize that the pump can be damaged by not ensuring it's PWM controlled.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I had a trickle sound for a couple of hours, gave the hoses a few flicks with my index finger and that was that. Added about 1cc of distilled to top it off and it's been running flawlessly since then.
> 
> Flushing the system should be a last resort, but I don't think everyone moving from air or CLC's are prepared for the initial noise as the system works the air out. Had I not been keeping up with this forum for a month prior to getting mine, I'd have thought there was a problem with my unit.
> 
> *Another issue that needs to be highlighted is BIOS/UEFI configuration, to ensure the unit it operating under PWM and not voltage control. Those used to the "Plug and Play" nature of air coolers may not realize that the pump can be damaged by not ensuring it's PWM controlled.*


Correct, forgot too add that info. If you dont have it set correctly in the bios, then that ticking noise can happen.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Still cant buy this in the UK...cmon swiftech?


tell me about it been waiting ages now


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Didnt like the Demiflex, very restrictive and very little difference in dust.
> What you can do in your case, is get a bracket that would screw the length of the existing 230mm mounting holes.
> Then you would mount the H220 onto the bracket.
> Contact Coolermaster and see if they can send you one.


I have those brackets, and thats what the H220 is installed to, the problem is there are gaps

If you mount the brackets like the picture you show, you cannot install the mesh screen that goes over the fans.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I have those brackets, and thats what the H220 is installed to, the problem is there are gaps
> 
> If you mount the brackets like the picture you show, you cannot install the mesh screen that goes over the fans.


Electrical tape


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I have those brackets, and thats what the H220 is installed to, the problem is there are gaps
> If you mount the brackets like the picture you show, you cannot install the mesh screen that goes over the fans.


That gap wont affect the amount of dust as you have pushing towards top.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That gap wont affect the amount of dust as you have pushing towards top.


I am now (pushing towards the top), but I have been advised by a couple of folks to switch the flow of air from exhaust to intake. Either way I will have dust with those gaps and the third fan mount vacant, however I will have more dust with the fans oriented so they intake air and exhaust into the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That gap wont affect the amount of dust as you have pushing towards top.
> 
> 
> 
> I am now (pushing towards the top), but I have been advised by a couple of folks to switch the flow of air from exhaust to intake. Either way I will have dust with those gaps and the third fan mount vacant, however I will have more dust with the fans oriented so they intake air and exhaust into the case.
Click to expand...

The difference from exhaust vs intake is personal preference. The temps varies from your internal and ambient.
The gap if you go intake is not going to increase dust by bounds. It is small and will barely do anything.

I had that case and 360rad as intake and exhaust. Dust from those gaps didnt do nothing.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The difference from exhaust vs intake is personal preference. The temps varies from your internal and ambient.
> The gap if you go intake is not going to increase dust by bounds. It is small and will barely do anything.
> 
> I had that case and 360rad as intake and exhaust. Dust from those gaps didnt do nothing.


When you switch from exhaust to intake don't just focus on your CPU temperatures, look at your GPU and Chipset as well. If either of those increases significantly you have an exhaust deficiency in your case.


----------



## teabubblez

Hey guys. Is it possible to install this on a nzxt phantom 410? It doesn't seem like I can seperate the fans and thee radiator between the metal plate on the top because of that extended notch on the radiator unlike the h100i, etc which is like a "block" in shape.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> When you switch from exhaust to intake don't just focus on your CPU temperatures, look at your GPU and Chipset as well. If either of those increases significantly you have an exhaust deficiency in your case.


This is another one of my concerns because my GPU is not under water and runs a bit on the warm side compared to other GPU's of the same type.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teabubblez*
> 
> Hey guys. Is it possible to install this on a nzxt phantom 410? It doesn't seem like I can seperate the fans and thee radiator between the metal plate on the top because of that extended notch on the radiator unlike the h100i, etc which is like a "block" in shape.


I was not able to install it with the radiator right side up without some minor dremel mod.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> This is another one of my concerns because my GPU is not under water and runs a bit on the warm side compared to other GPU's of the same type.


How warm is it? Are you using the HD cage fans to bring the air from the front, as the front 200m fan lacks enough airflow to push through the HDD cage.


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Here's mine!







My temps aren't as good as I thought they would be, is that normal?


----------



## ez12a

you have a p8z68, chances are your pump barb is resting on the heatsink on the left. Swap it around to what I have (See my sig rig). I found that the VRM sinks interfere with the pump barbs if oriented with the barbs coming out the sides like that.

i was getting the same lack luster results until i remounted it with the inlet at the top. My old h100i was beating the h220 with the way you have it mounted. Expect a 5C decrease remounting it (but you have IB, so i dont know, you might see different results).

it might not look like it touches but it does. Trust. If you wiggle that barb back and forth you'll find that the vrm is digging into the elbow (you can only see the scuffs with the pump removed).


----------



## kingduqc

I have two question, I'm dead on buying this but how long I have to wait for it in Canada? I'm planning to upgrade with haswell and get a h220 so... Also, if it ever leak, will sifteck replace what got fried? Do I need to refill it like a cosum loop? The only reason I don't go full WC is because I don't really want to do maintenance all the time.


----------



## TechSilver13

My H220 went out again...sad sad sad


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How warm is it? Are you using the HD cage fans to bring the air from the front, as the front 200m fan lacks enough airflow to push through the HDD cage.


I am not using the cage fans, as the bearings on all my Coolermaster sickleflows failed, so I need to replace them. I have an Antec spotcool blowing air in the direction of my GPU however.

My GPU idles around 40c and at load is around 70c which is a little high for my GPU, not to the point where its going to cause issues, but certainly I don't want to exacerbate the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> My H220 went out again...sad sad sad


Again? Have there been some quality issues with pumps on these units also?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> I have two question, I'm dead on buying this but how long I have to wait for it in Canada? I'm planning to upgrade with haswell and get a h220 so... Also, if it ever leak, will sifteck replace what got fried? Do I need to refill it like a cosum loop? The only reason I don't go full WC is because I don't really want to do maintenance all the time.


Newegg.ca should have some left.
NCIX had stock in last week, but is currently sold out. If you want one, better to order it and wait for the next stock.
If you never open H220, it is sealed. Has always been case by case. There is always a risk to have watercooling in any system. Closed or custom.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> This is another one of my concerns because my GPU is not under water and runs a bit on the warm side compared to other GPU's of the same type.


All I can say is that I run a GTX 480, which I think still holds the much maligned title of hottest GPU. I have a 200mm front fan, a 200mm side intake and a single 140mm exhaust, it stays within spec if I I have the H220 on intake. BUT, it does run hotter, and the 2c temp difference on my CPU didn't make up for lowering my GPU overclock.


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you have a p8z68, chances are your pump barb is resting on the heatsink on the left. Swap it around to what I have (See my sig rig). I found that the VRM sinks interfere with the pump barbs if oriented with the barbs coming out the sides like that.
> 
> i was getting the same lack luster results until i remounted it with the inlet at the top. My old h100i was beating the h220 with the way you have it mounted. Expect a 5C decrease remounting it (but you have IB, so i dont know, you might see different results).
> 
> it might not look like it touches but it does. Trust. If you wiggle that barb back and forth you'll find that the vrm is digging into the elbow (you can only see the scuffs with the pump removed).


I did notice that the VRM heatsink was very close to the barb when I installed it. I will remount it like you described and post updated temps when done, thanks!


----------



## Semper Fidelis

So can someone help me out with the screw specifications? I don't know anything about screws haha. I hear people referring to M3 and M4 when talking about radiator screws but is that the kind of screws this radiator uses? Also if I go to somewhere like Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot and ask for an "M3" screw will they know what I'm talking about? (that is if I can even buy them there)


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> So can someone help me out with the screw specifications? I don't know anything about screws haha. I hear people referring to M3 and M4 when talking about radiator screws but is that the kind of screws this radiator uses? Also if I go to somewhere like Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot and ask for an "M3" screw will they know what I'm talking about? (that is if I can even buy them there)


6-32 is the screw type (SAE) it is not a metric m4.

"Alternate: (8) 6-32 x 1 3/16 (30mm) philips screws"

Just watch the length too. Should be easy to find at most hardware stores.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> 6-32 is the screw type (SAE) it is not a metric m4.
> 
> "Alternate: (8) 6-32 x 1 3/16 (30mm) philips screws"
> 
> Just watch the length too. Should be easy to find at most hardware stores.


Cool thanks for the info. How specific of a length can I get? I'm guessing I would need to just get whatever is close and cut the excess off.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps aren't as good as I thought they would be, is that normal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> you have a p8z68, chances are your pump barb is resting on the heatsink on the left. Swap it around to what I have (See my sig rig). I found that the VRM sinks interfere with the pump barbs if oriented with the barbs coming out the sides like that.
> 
> i was getting the same lack luster results until i remounted it with the inlet at the top. My old h100i was beating the h220 with the way you have it mounted. Expect a 5C decrease remounting it (but you have IB, so i dont know, you might see different results).
> 
> it might not look like it touches but it does. Trust. If you wiggle that barb back and forth you'll find that the vrm is digging into the elbow (you can only see the scuffs with the pump removed).


He also has a 3570k, Ivy bridge has load temps floors because of the bad glue application leading to more TIM between the IHS and the die. Those temps look pretty ok for that chip with 4.4ghz and that voltage. If you want them to really drop lower you will have to delid the chip, but I don't think yours would benefit all that much from delidding as your voltage for 4.4 is somewhat high.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> My H220 went out again...sad sad sad


What number is this for you?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> What number is this for you?


Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?


That is what I'm thinking, the numbers just don't make sense with serial failures of pumps where a vast majority of other users have no issues except line blockage causing the motor in the pump to trip.

There has to be either dirty power from the PSU, or the mobo killing the electronics on his pumps. Maybe bad power from the wall could cause this, but I have a hard time believing it wouldn't kill the power supply first with brown outs or spikes.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?


I'm really starting to wonder what percentage of these people are unknowingly using voltage control. That's the one caveat with the H220, it's designed to be a simple kit, and that may attract those who don't often venture into the BIOS/UEFI.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'm really starting to wonder what percentage of these people are unknowingly using voltage control. That's the one caveat with the H220, it's designed to be a simple kit, and that may attract those who don't often venture into the BIOS/UEFI.


this. and the fact that a lot of people interested in the device posting here dont know that plugging it in to a 3 pin fan controller will cause problems. (No offense to potential users, but just know what you're buying and how to use it







)


----------



## Fleat

I think you guys are oversimplifying the issue quite a bit. Most people who are even interested in this type of product are more technical than you are giving them credit for. I think Swiftech has some issues they need to work out as they refine the process. No need to make excuses for them.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I think you guys are oversimplifying the issue quite a bit. Most people who are even interested in this type of product are more technical than you are giving them credit for. I think Swiftech has some issues they need to work out as they refine the process. No need to make excuses for them.


It is possible, but my initial reaction is "Really????".

You don't seem to see a statistical anomaly from users having multiple pumps fail in the same manner in a row but ONLY specific users? Swiftech has already reported lower RMA rates than most normal production runs, even including the issues with pump blockage and this being the first run of the H220.

Could they do something to improve this product? Certainly, but I wouldn't go all doom and gloom on them just yet because of a few vocal and unfortunate customers.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I think you guys are oversimplifying the issue quite a bit. Most people who are even interested in this type of product are more technical than you are giving them credit for. I think Swiftech has some issues they need to work out as they refine the process. No need to make excuses for them.


Not making excuses. I only bring it up due to posts I've seen in this thread, a number of people have confused the H220 as being a CLC like the Corsair and NZXT products. There are most certainly issues, especially with the early units having debris of some kind in the loop. But the chances of the same people having multiple quality control related pump failures are very small. I've not seen anyone who's gotten an H220 from the "intercepted" batch who's flushed the unit and found debris, not to say that debris can be only cause of pump noise and/or failure.

I know my Gigabyte Z77 board defaulted to "Automatic" CPU Fan control, I had to manually set it to PWM. Now I have no clue what leaving it in automatic would do, but there's a chance it would apply voltage control of some kind.

Others highlighting potential issues, some of which could be easily over looked, is one of the reasons I personally come to these forums, and I hope myself and other in this thread doing the same may help some users.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I think you guys are oversimplifying the issue quite a bit. Most people who are even interested in this type of product are more technical than you are giving them credit for. I think Swiftech has some issues they need to work out as they refine the process. No need to make excuses for them.


people might know how to build a computer and water cooling loop but dont know the nuances between things like PWM and voltage control on a 4 pin header (the simple fact is i bet a lot of people see 4 pin and assume it's PWM). It's why we get the occasional person in this thread still asking if its ok to connect it to a external fan controller (that most likely isnt PWM).

i think there's also probably some QA adjustments also that need to be done, but nothing crazy. My 2nd pump is still good *knock on wood*


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> It is possible, but my initial reaction is "Really????".
> 
> You don't seem to see a statistical anomaly from users having multiple pumps fail in the same manner in a row but ONLY specific users? Swiftech has already reported lower RMA rates than most normal production runs, even including the issues with pump blockage and this being the first run of the H220.
> 
> Could they do something to improve this product? Certainly, but I wouldn't go all doom and gloom on them just yet because of a few vocal and unfortunate customers.


I think it would be nice to get some testing information from Swiftech (or a brave soul) on the effects of running the pump on voltage regulation. I really wouldn't consider my post doom and gloom. As I said, they need to continue to refine the manufacturing process.

It does seem that most of the issues can be solved by a flush and refill which is great. I am sure many people (including myself) have solved the pump issues by doing this. However, this doesn't help provide an accurate picture for Swiftech on what percentage of the units are actually having issues as these won't come in on RMA's. The fundamental problem is that the unit is being sold as a "closed loop" cooling system that shouldn't need maintenance for 3 years.

With how active Swiftech has been with all of this, I would imagine the actual defective numbers should soon fall in line with other closed loop cooling systems. Overall, I think this is a good product that just needs some time to mature.

Edit: I do know that Swiftech has specifically said that this pump is not meant to run on voltage control, but it would be interesting to see how detrimental the effects are. I would agree that it does seem suspicious that someone could have three bad units in a row, but I wouldn't completely rule it out. The possibility of user error is there in every situation though.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I think it would be nice to get some testing information from Swiftech (or a brave soul) on the effects of running the pump on voltage regulation.


http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
Quote:


> Pulse-width modulation of DC operating voltage to modify fan speed [edit: in PWM devices] is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan.


nidec servo (manufacturer of Gentle Typhoons, and many other fans) even says voltage modulation of pwm devices isnt recommended. more complex electronics are sensitive to voltage, and a PWM fan isnt simply a motor. It's why cars with a lot electronics will often go crazy when their battery or alternator fails to provide proper voltage. it makes sense.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> nidec servo (manufacturer of Gentle Typhoons, and many other fans) even says voltage modulation of pwm devices isnt recommended. more complex electronics are sensitive to voltage, and a PWM fan isnt simply a motor. It's why cars with a lot electronics will often go crazy when their battery or alternator fails to provide proper voltage. it makes sense.


Yes, I understand the differences quite well and that information is certainly useful. Like I said in my edit above, I know that Swiftech advises against this, but stress testing it on voltage regulation doesn't seem like a terrible idea as this is likely to happen from time to time. This would help verify the symptoms that may occur in this situation and inevitably help diagnose problems.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I think it would be nice to get some testing information from Swiftech (or a brave soul) on the effects of running the pump on voltage regulation. I really wouldn't consider my post doom and gloom. As I said, they need to continue to refine the manufacturing process.
> 
> It does seem that most of the issues can be solved by a flush and refill which is great. I am sure many people (including myself) have solved the pump issues by doing this. However, this doesn't help provide an accurate picture for Swiftech on what percentage of the units are actually having issues as these won't come in on RMA's. The fundamental problem is that the unit is being sold as a "closed loop" cooling system that shouldn't need maintenance for 3 years.
> 
> With how active Swiftech has been with all of this, I would imagine the actual defective numbers should soon fall in line with other closed loop cooling systems. Overall, I think this is a good product that just needs some time to mature.
> 
> Edit: I do know that Swiftech has specifically said that this pump is not meant to run on voltage control, but it would be interesting to see how detrimental the effects are. I would agree that it does seem suspicious that someone could have three bad units in a row, but I wouldn't completely rule it out. The possibility of user error is there in every situation though.


Bram and gabe have both posted numbers of their RMA / Defect numbers and it was strikingly low, as in already in line or below other CLC. To me the biggest issue is it looks like this pump's electronics might be VERY sensitivy to voltage modulation. If a users board is able to kill a pump within hours, and a couple weeks this could be the reason.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Bram and gabe have both posted numbers of their RMA / Defect numbers and it was strikingly low, as in already in line or below other CLC. To me the biggest issue is it looks like this pump's electronics might be VERY sensitivy to voltage modulation. If a users board is able to kill a pump within hours, and a couple weeks this could be the reason.


As I mentioned in my post, I think those RMA numbers are a bit skewed by people actually "fixing" it with a flush / refill which shouldn't be necessary for a CLC. I don't really intend to repeat my previous post, but I really think it would be essential to test how sensitive the pump is to voltage modulation.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> As I mentioned in my post, I think those RMA numbers are a bit skewed by people actually "fixing" it with a flush / refill which shouldn't be necessary for a CLC. I don't really intend to repeat my previous post, but I really think it would be essential to test how sensitive the pump is to voltage modulation.


It's been tested, and shown that it can kill a pump in hours. That's the whole point of them saying specifically and importantly not to do it.

As for the number of people "fixing" their own RMA, this happens with more products than just Swiftech's. And there have only been a handful in this thread that have said that they've done it. The fact that most people that have this unit don't even know this club exists should throw the idea [that a good percentage of RMAs were avoided by flushing] out the window. They have already mentioned that something like 70% of their RMAs were cured with a flush in their facilities. So it's not like rhey aren't getting RMAs from units that weren't flushed.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> As I mentioned in my post, I think those RMA numbers are a bit skewed by people actually "fixing" it with a flush / refill which shouldn't be necessary for a CLC. I don't really intend to repeat my previous post, but I really think it would be essential to test how sensitive the pump is to voltage modulation.


Other than biting my tongue, I'll say one thing; This isn't a CLC. This is an AIO with expandability features.

Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

that would be a good way of putting it. A pre-assembled, filled, All in One Kit. Like the XSPC kits but actually usable out of the box.


----------



## SDBolts619

With the addition of a QNIX 2560*1440 monitor running at 96hz to my system, my GPU temps have really gone up. As such, I'm looking at putting my GPU's under water. I ran a separate thread, but no responses, so maybe the H220 community can offer up some opinions.

My current temps (during gaming, not stress testing):

CPU - 48-55
GPU's - 75-81

I'm looking at EK full cover waterblocks for the GPU's. (Sorry Swiftech - I don't see any full cover 670 reference design blocks that you make, so I gotta go with someone else...) I've got a three basic ideas on how to set up the loop:

1) The simple version is to run from my H220 radiator/reservoir to the CPU. From there to a single 120mm radiator at the top of the case where the exhaust fan is, then to the GPU's and back to the H220 radiator. Shortest loop, but only adds a single 120mm radiator to the loop.

2) Add a 2x120, 3x120, 2x140 or 3x140 radiator outside the back of the case. This radiator would feed directly to the CPU. CPU to the H220 radiator/reservoir, then to the GPU's, then back outside the case to the new radiator. Longer loop, but quite a bit more in the way of radiator space. However, I believe that Swiftech recommends that the H220 radiator reservoir always go directly into the CPU block, so not sure how much this could cause problems.

3) Add the same external radiator, but the loop runs H220 radiator - CPU, outside the case to the new radiator, back in to the GPU's, GPU's to the H220 radiator. This ends up being the longest loop - but does add a large amount of radiator surface and maintains the proper loop order per Swiftech.

Opinions on these three options? My guess is that this could actually result in a temperature rise on the CPU, but given where I'm at now, I have some temp headroom to work with. I'd like to get those GPU temps down to the mid 60's at peak though...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> With the addition of a QNIX 2560*1440 monitor running at 96hz to my system, my GPU temps have really gone up. As such, I'm looking at putting my GPU's under water. I ran a separate thread, but no responses, so maybe the H220 community can offer up some opinions.
> 
> My current temps (during gaming, not stress testing):
> 
> CPU - 48-55
> GPU's - 75-81
> 
> I'm looking at EK full cover waterblocks for the GPU's. (Sorry Swiftech - I don't see any full cover 670 reference design blocks that you make, so I gotta go with someone else...) I've got a three basic ideas on how to set up the loop:
> 
> 1) The simple version is to run from my H220 radiator/reservoir to the CPU. From there to a single 120mm radiator at the top of the case where the exhaust fan is, then to the GPU's and back to the H220 radiator. Shortest loop, but only adds a single 120mm radiator to the loop.
> 
> 2) Add a 2x120, 3x120, 2x140 or 3x140 radiator outside the back of the case. This radiator would feed directly to the CPU. CPU to the H220 radiator/reservoir, then to the GPU's, then back outside the case to the new radiator. Longer loop, but quite a bit more in the way of radiator space. However, I believe that Swiftech recommends that the H220 radiator reservoir always go directly into the CPU block, so not sure how much this could cause problems.
> 
> 3) Add the same external radiator, but the loop runs H220 radiator - CPU, outside the case to the new radiator, back in to the GPU's, GPU's to the H220 radiator. This ends up being the longest loop - but does add a large amount of radiator surface and maintains the proper loop order per Swiftech.
> 
> Opinions on these three options? My guess is that this could actually result in a temperature rise on the CPU, but given where I'm at now, I have some temp headroom to work with. I'd like to get those GPU temps down to the mid 60's at peak though
> 
> 
> ...


If you use a 3x120 rad added to the loop your cpu temps should not go up. Depending on how much heat everything puts out and the oc of each, your temps could drop a bit. Obviously your gpu temps will drop dramatically, any you won't have to listen to the fans anymore.

It makes life much easier if have the res feed the pump, and have that res pointed up. Based on that choice number 3 would be the way to go. I think you would not be all that impressed with the temps just adding one 120mm rad with the two gpus. Not that it wouldn't work, but if you want nice temps you want more rad space.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> With the addition of a QNIX 2560*1440 monitor running at 96hz to my system, my GPU temps have really gone up. As such, I'm looking at putting my GPU's under water. I ran a separate thread, but no responses, so maybe the H220 community can offer up some opinions.
> 
> My current temps (during gaming, not stress testing):
> 
> CPU - 48-55
> GPU's - 75-81
> 
> I'm looking at EK full cover waterblocks for the GPU's. (Sorry Swiftech - I don't see any full cover 670 reference design blocks that you make, so I gotta go with someone else...) I've got a three basic ideas on how to set up the loop:
> 
> 1) The simple version is to run from my H220 radiator/reservoir to the CPU. From there to a single 120mm radiator at the top of the case where the exhaust fan is, then to the GPU's and back to the H220 radiator. Shortest loop, but only adds a single 120mm radiator to the loop.
> 
> 2) Add a 2x120, 3x120, 2x140 or 3x140 radiator outside the back of the case. This radiator would feed directly to the CPU. CPU to the H220 radiator/reservoir, then to the GPU's, then back outside the case to the new radiator. Longer loop, but quite a bit more in the way of radiator space. However, I believe that Swiftech recommends that the H220 radiator reservoir always go directly into the CPU block, so not sure how much this could cause problems.
> 
> 3) Add the same external radiator, but the loop runs H220 radiator - CPU, outside the case to the new radiator, back in to the GPU's, GPU's to the H220 radiator. This ends up being the longest loop - but does add a large amount of radiator surface and maintains the proper loop order per Swiftech.
> 
> Opinions on these three options? My guess is that this could actually result in a temperature rise on the CPU, but given where I'm at now, I have some temp headroom to work with. I'd like to get those GPU temps down to the mid 60's at peak though...


Swiftech will soon be releasing NV Komodo blocks for reference design 670s, 680s, Titans, and 690s. They actually look even better than the AMD Komodos because they have stainless accents on the sides and brushed aluminum backplate if I understand correctly. They can be seen on thei facebook page (which everyone here should go "like" btw).


----------



## SDBolts619

Thanks for the feedback. I decided to call EVGA support since I couldn't find a definitive answer on the safe temps for my cards. Per their support staff, throttling or slowdown occurs at 97 degrees and anything below 90 is considered just fine. Plus, since going watercooled doesn't affect the warranty, neither does popping off the heatsink to install CLU or similar TIM. Since it was posted over on the GTX 660 Ti Owner's Club thread that CLU was worth about 6-8 degrees, I think I'll keep the $400-$500 it was going to cost to watercool my GPU's in my pocket and use some of the extra CLU I have sitting around on my GPU's. If I can keep temps in the low 70's, I think I'll be happy with that since noise isn't much of an issue when I use a G35 headset while gaming...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I decided to call EVGA support since I couldn't find a definitive answer on the safe temps for my cards. Per their support staff, throttling or slowdown occurs at 97 degrees and anything below 90 is considered just fine. Plus, since going watercooled doesn't affect the warranty, neither does popping off the heatsink to install CLU or similar TIM. Since it was posted over on the GTX 660 Ti Owner's Club thread that CLU was worth about 6-8 degrees, I think I'll keep the $400-$500 it was going to cost to watercool my GPU's in my pocket and use some of the extra CLU I have sitting around on my GPU's. If I can keep temps in the low 70's, I think I'll be happy with that since noise isn't much of an issue when I use a G35 headset while gaming...


Those temps seem high, but I have a 670 not 660. You can see for sure where they throttle with Precision X monitoring graphs. I know both my 670 and 690 drop one speed level when I go over 70c. But if you can change the TIM and get your cards where you want them then that is an easy solution.

Most people will tell you not to use CLU on a gpu because it is conductive and capacitive. That said, if you do use it (like I did) just be very, very careful. One tiny drop on the wrong place on the card and you are in trouble.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that would be a good way of putting it. A pre-assembled, filled, All in One Kit. Like the XSPC kits but actually usable out of the box.


If you look at the way these kits are marketed, they aren't marketed as CLCs they're marketed as AIOs. CLC are different because they aren't expandable and the pumps that these kits use aren't powerful enough to handle cooling more than one component through a single radiator. We are in competition with these kits though because ours can be used in a similar fashion, right out of the box. I hope this clarifies things a little.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Swiftech will soon be releasing NV Komodo blocks for reference design 670s, 680s, Titans, and 690s. They actually look even better than the AMD Komodos because they have stainless accents on the sides and brushed aluminum backplate if I understand correctly. They can be seen on thei facebook page (which everyone here should go "like" btw).


Thanks for mentioning that Phelan, I appreciate it. I was about to when I noticed your post.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for mentioning that Phelan, I appreciate it. I was about to when I noticed your post.


Well, if you need anyone to test out a couple of 670 reference blocks with an H220, I'd be happy to volunteer!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Well, if you need anyone to test out a couple of 670 reference blocks with an H220, I'd be happy to volunteer!


Actually I think we're doing that here in our lab as part of our validation process. Thanks anyway though.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Swiftech will soon be releasing NV Komodo blocks for reference design 670s, 680s, Titans, and 690s. They actually look even better than the AMD Komodos because they have stainless accents on the sides and brushed aluminum backplate if I understand correctly. They can be seen on thei facebook page (which everyone here should go "like" btw).


Yea, they are gorgeous.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for mentioning that Phelan, I appreciate it. I was about to when I noticed your post.


Haha, yea I think I was first to troll the album and call you and Stephen out for kicks on Saturday. I just happened to look at my phone at the perfect time. Those blocks look amazing, too bad I already have an EK titan block and backplate... Anyone WTB EK titan block and Backplate or trade for the ST ones? My cooling would be 100% Swiftech if I had that block xD


----------



## circeseye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually I think we're doing that here in our lab as part of our evaluation process. Thanks anyway though.


aww come on some of us 670 guys would loooove to try out the new blocks for ya.


----------



## Thrasher1016

I have a 7970 HD Komodo on my card (untested yet), and it's beautiful just sitting there!
The AMDs do have chrome accents around the edges, on the inside facing area of the block. Looks really good!









Thanks - T


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually I think we're doing that here in our lab as part of our evaluation process. Thanks anyway though.


I would recommend that Swiftech provide some "expansion guidance" data bad. There are a ton of people asking questions like:

Can it handle and overclocked 3930K and overclocked 680i in the same loop without an extra rad?
What would be the difference if you added a single mcr120qp to that?
What sort of temp drop would you see with an overclocked 3930k plus mcr120?
What about a 2600k + 670 in the same loop. Is an extra radiator necessary?
What about expanding with a motherboard block, 680, ram, mcr120? What sort of radiator add on is needed?

Based on the forum conversations, I would say there is a strong need for "how to design an expanded h220" loop. There are hydraulics and heat load limitations, but no where is there a means for usrs to understand what those are. The expansion filling video is a great start, but how about some configuaration heat load and restriction guidance?

I would suggest a table developed showing various expansion configurations and resulting CPU/GPU temps.

Any chance you can help the users out with something like that?

I would also suggest a recommendation for those that must run the rad inverted. A simple Tline install video or something would do.

Martin


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I would recommend that Swiftech provide some "expansion guidance" data bad. There are a ton of people asking questions like:
> 
> Can it handle and overclocked 3930K and overclocked 680i in the same loop without an extra rad?
> What would be the difference if you added a single mcr120qp to that?
> What sort of temp drop would you see with an overclocked 3930k plus mcr120?
> What about a 2600k + 670 in the same loop. Is an extra radiator necessary?
> What about expanding with a motherboard block, 680, ram, mcr120? What sort of radiator add on is needed?
> 
> Based on the forum conversations, I would say there is a strong need for "how to design an expanded h220" loop. There are hydraulics and heat load limitations, but no where is there a means for usrs to understand what those are. The expansion filling video is a great start, but how about some configuaration heat load and restriction guidance?
> 
> I would suggest a table developed showing various expansion configurations and resulting CPU/GPU temps.
> 
> Any chance you can help the users out with something like that?
> 
> I would also suggest a recommendation for those that must run the rad inverted. A simple Tline install video or something would do.
> 
> Martin


Thank you very much for your suggestion Martin, and I'll take this up with Stephen to see about putting something like that together. I'm sure Phelan would be able to post it on the first page of this forum too, once it's finished.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thank you very much for your suggestion Martin, and I'll take this up with Stephen to see about putting something like that together. I'm sure Phelan would be able to post it on the first page of this forum too, once it's finished.


For sure! Just say when


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For sure! Just say when


It's going to be when we have time







and when we're able to finalize and compile the data. I'll keep you posted, but it's going to be a little while.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I got my Swiftech H220 in today. Very easy and straight forward installation. Idle temps are great so far, haven't ran and stress test so I'll post on load temp a little later.

Here's some pics


----------



## TechSilver13

Ok I dont think my house power is bad power, nothing else in my house has ever broken blown up or became faulty like both of my h220s. I have a Corsair HX1050, one of the best PSU made. None of my other pumps...H100\H100i\water 2.0 extreme have gone bad in this SAME system so I have a hard time believing its a voltage regulation issue. My first H220 was probably juat full of grime and stopped pumping after a month or so. This one sounded like a dang waterfall and made some serious whining sounds that worried me (24 7 noise) This is an H220 problem not mine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Ok I dont think my house power is bad power, nothing else in my house has ever broken blown up or became faulty like both of my h220s. I have a Corsair HX1050, one of the best PSU made. None of my other pumps...H100\H100i\water 2.0 extreme have gone bad in this SAME system so I have a hard time believing its a voltage regulation issue. My first H220 was probably juat full of grime and stopped pumping after a month or so. This one sounded like a dang waterfall and made some serious whining sounds that worried me (24 7 noise) This is an H220 problem not mine.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


Sent you a PM. I'm really sorry about this, but we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Ok I dont think my house power is bad power, nothing else in my house has ever broken blown up or became faulty like both of my h220s. I have a Corsair HX1050, one of the best PSU made. None of my other pumps...H100\H100i\water 2.0 extreme have gone bad in this SAME system so I have a hard time believing its a voltage regulation issue. My first H220 was probably juat full of grime and stopped pumping after a month or so. This one sounded like a dang waterfall and made some serious whining sounds that worried me (24 7 noise) This is an H220 problem not mine.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


Sounds like you had an air pocket in the pump. That could have possibly damaged the pump over that amount of time, which is my theory.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

H220 is here. I know I will have to reset it and adjust position, as its too close to my ram.
For now it all works and temps is normal.

I'm going to try a front mount too see how it fits in the Midi R2.


----------



## MrStick89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> This one sounded like a dang waterfall and made some serious whining sounds that worried me (24 7 noise) This is an H220 problem not mine.


So its not suppose to sound like a waterfall? I hear trickling water 24/7, fill port is located on the top is this normal?


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> So its not suppose to sound like a waterfall? I hear trickling water 24/7, fill port is located on the top is this normal?


No, not normal. The gurgling sound should go away within a few hours if you have the reservoir pointed up. I'd try tilting the case at various angles while running and if it doesn't stop check to make sure the reservoir is topped off.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> So its not suppose to sound like a waterfall? I hear trickling water 24/7, fill port is located on the top is this normal?


I just installed mine today with the fill port facing up. Couldn't even hear the sound of water when I started it up.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I can hear the water when I'm close to my case. Over the case fans, i do not hear it.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> No, not normal. The gurgling sound should go away within a few hours if you have the reservoir pointed up. I'd try tilting the case at various angles while running and if it doesn't stop check to make sure the reservoir is topped off.


I'd also give the tubes a few flicks with your finger while the pump is running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I can hear the water when I'm close to my case. Over the case fans, i do not hear it.


I can't hear the water at all, only pump noise.


----------



## bond32

Is there an easier way to view that sheet in the OP? The ads cut off part of it


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Went through I do not hear the pump at all. What I hear is the 2x pwm Helix grinding.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there an easier way to view that sheet in the OP? The ads cut off part of it


Right-click in the listings _(Frame)_ and look for - *This Frame > Open Frame in New Tab*. You'll see everything in full, if that's what you were referring to.

BTW, that's what I do in Firefox, not sure on other browsers, but you get the idea.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there an easier way to view that sheet in the OP? The ads cut off part of it


The site has a hard frame width that I can't force the sheet to view past.

However, I added a direct link to the datasheet on it's own for easier viewing, right underneath the chart







.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The site has a hard frame width that I can't force the sheet to view past.
> 
> However, I added a direct link to the datasheet on it's own for easier viewing, right underneath the chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Much easier for everyone, thanks!


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220 is here. I know I will have to reset it and adjust position, as its too close to my ram.
> For now it all works and temps is normal.
> 
> I'm going to try a front mount too see how it fits in the Midi R2.


I thought about doing front mount in my Arc Midi R2, but it is probably the worst possible way you could mount it. Not only would the pump be the highest point in the loop which is already dangerous, but the tubes aren't long enough to reach the CPU if you mount the radiator with the reservoir at the top. So you would have to mount it with the res at the bottom and the pump as the highest point... basically you're feeding all the air in the loop directly into the pump. Unless you want to be checking fluid levels very often and topping it off to 100% when it gets a tiny bit low it will really be a hassle doing it that way.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thank you very much for your suggestion Martin, and I'll take this up with Stephen to see about putting something like that together. I'm sure Phelan would be able to post it on the first page of this forum too, once it's finished.


Thanks for looking into it. Right now eveyone has to guess, it would be nice to have some guidance. There is really nothing to help design radiator capacity nor pumping power. I have some PQ data on the pump and restriction on the rad, but I don't have the VGA hardware to go further. My old 570gtx is still on air and I couldn't justify buying a waterblock for it so CPU heat was all I could do.

It seems like 100w per 120mm rad section yields decent results at Prime95 levels but very little is out there to help folks understand actual usage heat loads and how actual heat varies with different CPUs GPUs and overclocks. The H220 is very popular largely due to the Expansion feature so it only makes sense to me that there would be "expansion guidance". Your filling and priming video is a great start, but we don't have anything to help provide heat load or restriction guidance. A simple table showing kit vs a range of expanded parts and their respective CPU and GPU temps would convey the message very clearly and be a great help.

Result could even be calculated if c/w vs flow and PQ and pressure drop data bits were developed for each item.

Anyhow, just a suggestion. Seems like a data hole that would be greatly appreciated by the users.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis*
> 
> I thought about doing front mount in my Arc Midi R2, but it is probably the worst possible way you could mount it. Not only would the pump be the highest point in the loop which is already dangerous, but the tubes aren't long enough to reach the CPU if you mount the radiator with the reservoir at the top. So you would have to mount it with the res at the bottom and the pump as the highest point... basically you're feeding all the air in the loop directly into the pump. Unless you want to be checking fluid levels very often and topping it off to 100% when it gets a tiny bit low it will really be a hassle doing it that way.


If you want it in front you could simply put in a micro res. up top or a simple T somewhere as an air trap. Cheap and easy. If the res is the highest point it shouldnt matter if the rad is pointed up, down or whatever. Easy to see if you need a top off as well.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

This has probably been discussed already. Since the fans are PWM fans. Is it ok to plug them into a fan controller.


----------



## gdubc

You can but if you control pwm fans by voltage and not a pwm signal then you are going to shorten the life of said fan. Best to use the pwm splitter that came with the h220 if you dont have enough pwm headers on your mb (at least for the cpu cooling fans). Of course if your controller uses pwm then no harm done.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> This has probably been discussed already. Since the fans are PWM fans. Is it ok to plug them into a fan controller.


Short answer is no, because 95% of fan controllers modulate voltage, and the PWM Helix fans do not respond well to voltage control.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> Ok I dont think my house power is bad power, nothing else in my house has ever broken blown up or became faulty like both of my h220s. I have a Corsair HX1050, one of the best PSU made. None of my other pumps...H100\H100i\water 2.0 extreme have gone bad in this SAME system so I have a hard time believing its a voltage regulation issue. My first H220 was probably juat full of grime and stopped pumping after a month or so. This one sounded like a dang waterfall and made some serious whining sounds that worried me (24 7 noise) This is an H220 problem not mine.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2


I just took a cursory look at the h100i, and it looks like the headers have 3 pins. It also looks like the Water 2.0 Extreme pump would also be voltage controlled based on the 3 pin connector. I'm sorry for your difficulties but it does some entirely plausible that you were using voltage modulation this whole time, previous hardware supported it and the H220 is a TRUE PWM device, it does not support voltage modulation. Go through your bios, read up on your motherboard, contact support with a ticket to see if there is a true PWM signal coming from your board or if it is using voltage modulation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> This has probably been discussed already. Since the fans are PWM fans. Is it ok to plug them into a fan controller.


Only if it is a true PWM controller. If it mentions anything about 3pin to 4pin, or works with 3 pin and 4 pin fans, then no it would not be a good idea.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I'm not hooking them into a PWM controller. Just a regular fan controller. They sound like they're running at full speed when I crank them all the way up. My temps are really good to so.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'm not hooking them into a PWM controller. Just a regular fan controller. They sound like they're running at full speed when I crank them all the way up. My temps are really good to so.


You are voltage regulating those fans. This is a bad idea, you will burn them out. It is better for you to sell those fans, and get some regular voltage controlled fans and run them off of the fan controller.


----------



## justanoldman

When not stressing your chip, the H220 can run for a little while without any fans. Therefore, you can unplug all your fans and just listing to the H220 for a minute to see what noises it makes.

There is a buzzing sound that I can hear on my two H220 units with the case open, but there is zero water/air/trickling noise. Any trapped air, gurgling, or trickling sound should go away after a day or two. As posted already, titling the case every which way, restarting several times, and changing the pump speed from low to high and back again tend to help get rid of the trapped air noise.

Also, from testing my loop I think we can come up with a general rule of thumb before Swiftech gives us actual data. The H220 by itself can handle pretty much any CPU. You can add one gpu with no extra rads if the oc on both cpu and gpu are reasonably low, and you don't mind less than great temps. If you have high overclocks and want good temps, then add 120 worth of rad per gpu plus an extra 120.

So a single gpu added would do well with an extra 220 rad, and two gpus would do well with a 320 rad added. You can do it with less, but I think this rule of thumb gets you good temps with reasonably slow fans.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> When not stressing your chip, the H220 can run for a little while without any fans. Therefore, you can unplug all your fans and just listing to the H220 for a minute to see what noises it makes.


I actually did some testing this way, turned out one of my fans had a noisy bearing, which Gabe and Bram quickly replaced for me. My Idle temps went from 29c up to a whopping 32c with no fans.

As for fan controllers, it seems like the Sunbeam Rheosmart fans advertise themselves as PWM controllers, but reading the descriptions it looks like they simply use the PWM signal to do voltage regulation. It seems like Speedfan and Swiftechs PWM hub are going to be the most reliable combination, not to mention the cheapest.


----------



## bond32

Man I am so excited to get this thing in. I didn't have any interest at first when I saw performance wasn't much better to the h100i... Then I saw some more and more reviews come out. Finally went for it and I can't wait. Should be here today or tomorrow. Any of you had the h100i then went to the h220?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Everybody,
First let me thank you all for the info here which I found quite useful. I purchase my unit back in the end of February while was "orderable" in FrozenCpu and was shipped during March. Took a while to get it down here in Brazil and reclaim it from customs. Install on March 27th and was quite pleased. Temps were great and noise too within my Nanoxia DS1 was almost a whisper (tapping my fingers on the desk would do a lot more noise that the system itself). Got a pair of Noctuas NF-F12 and all was well until start to get a zero rpm warning while gaming. Then started to read this forum and trying to nail down the problem and after much ado nothing seems to fix it and the intermittent zero rpm was always there specially while stressing the system (prime95 or gaming). After almost 3 weeks I decided to RMA it. Bryan has been very helpful and along with FrozenCPU coordinated the RMA which again took a while. Finally got the second unit yesterday and after mounting (following all instructions and advices from this forum - pmw splitter, molex, pump on ch 1, radiator on top with fill port up and so on) and turning on the PC again the pump seems to behave erratically right from start (monitoring it in BIOS). I also don't believe in such bad luck (two times common&#8230 but I am at the end of my resources here since I cannot think of anything else causing this problem. My MB is ASUS p9x79 pro which have a PMW cpufan header rated at 1 A and 12 w. In any case I am not using it to power the pump. About the power source I believe is quite stable. Is a corsair ax860i PSU and I can monitor the 12 v line and is quite stable and unrelated to pump failures. Then I realized that molex (sigh&#8230;to molex or not to molex&#8230; that's is the question) wires might be loose causing the powering the pump to behave erratically and still no good since they are pretty well fitted now. No weird noises nothing indicating pump to be failing or with debris and bubbles.
So, that is it, my sad story with the H220 so far&#8230; I would appreciate any additional insights.
Best wishes
Gabriel


----------



## Avonosac

I am not familiar with your specific bios, but is there any settings you can ensure the 4pin header is actually in PWM mode, and not voltage regulation?

You can also use speedfan or other software to try to monitor the performance of the unit, to see what conditions cause the erratic behavior.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, it is in PMW mode and I can regulate the pump and fans speed (on the splitter) just fine. In fact the cpufan header is a native PWM one. I am using coretemp and hwmonitor to monitor everything and there is no apparent cause to it. While stressing the pump would go to zero RPM and temps would spike....

BTW the wires on the pump are in the correct order but I notice the green and blue in the pwm coming from the splitter to the cpu fan header are switched (just like the pictures in Martin lab review of the unit). I don't think that is a problem since the PWM is active and I can regulate the pump/fans rpms.


----------



## skywalkr

Just got my H220 yesterday. Wanted to ask, I have the noise problem that was in the youtube video a few pages back. I tried shaking it around, squeezing the tubes, and it's still quite noisy (even more so on load). Could this be because I have the res upside down? I'm using a 500r case and it's the only way I can mount it unfortunately.

What are my options to try getting rid of the noise? Thanks for any info.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalkr*
> 
> Just got my H220 yesterday. Wanted to ask, I have the noise problem that was in the youtube video a few pages back. I tried shaking it around, squeezing the tubes, and it's still quite noisy (even more so on load). Could this be because I have the res upside down? I'm using a 500r case and it's the only way I can mount it unfortunately.
> 
> What are my options to try getting rid of the noise? Thanks for any info.


Dismount the radiator and place it above the pump with the reservoir facing upwards, let it run for awhile and see if the noise lessens or disappears. If that doesn't help, open the fill port and add some distilled water to top it off, run the unit again and see if there's any change.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You are voltage regulating those fans. This is a bad idea, you will burn them out. It is better for you to sell those fans, and get some regular voltage controlled fans and run them off of the fan controller.


Alright, temporarily I hooked up the fans and h220 cpu cooler using the provided PWM controller until I get my fan situation straightened out. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, it is in PMW mode and I can regulate the pump and fans speed (on the splitter) just fine. In fact the cpufan header is a native PWM one. I am using coretemp and hwmonitor to monitor everything and there is no apparent cause to it. While stressing the pump would go to zero RPM and temps would spike....
> 
> BTW *The wires on the pump are in the correct order but I notice the green and blue in the pwm coming from the splitter to the cpu fan header are switched* (just like the pictures in Martin lab review of the unit). I don't think that is a problem since the PWM is active and I can regulate the pump/fans rpms.


That sounds like the problem to me, but wait until Gabe Stphen or Bryan can verify.


----------



## Gabrielzm

It might be if they are inverted on the route. They look just like this picture:

http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/swiftech-h220-12.jpg?w=614&h=529

and notice that the green wire on the far side (which should be the PWM signal). The question is if at the other end of the cable (the one going in the splitter) the two wires are reversed (blue and green) or not (I can not verify that right now since I am at work). Otherwise is just a problem of the color scheme not being followed consistently.

Thank you all for helping out.

Gabriel


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I actually did some testing this way, turned out one of my fans had a noisy bearing, which Gabe and Bram quickly replaced for me. My Idle temps went from 29c up to a whopping 32c with no fans.
> 
> As for fan controllers, it seems like the Sunbeam Rheosmart fans advertise themselves as PWM controllers, but reading the descriptions it looks like they simply use the PWM signal to do voltage regulation. It seems like Speedfan and Swiftechs PWM hub are going to be the most reliable combination, not to mention the cheapest.


Yeah, I have that Sunbeam that you're talking about, and while a good budget fan controller, even seating a 4-pin PWM fan on it and letting it control them is a sure way to premature death for the fans.
Cute little deal, but I had to get something with real software control, real PWM _and_ voltage control, and also, just smaller. That Sunbeam's got a lot of junk in the trunk!

Thanks - T


----------



## Isewake

OK. I got my H220 but didn't install it yet. I was reading about the PVM splitter and fans. I emailed MSI (my motherboard manufacturer) and this is what I got back regarding my CPU fan header
Quote:


> The boards cpu fan header is 4pin, the 4th pin allows for fan control, we recommend installing a fan which has this connection.


So I am assuming it doesn't support PVM fans. What do I need to install the H220? Thanks


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isewake*
> 
> OK. I got my H220 but didn't install it yet. I was reading about the PVM splitter and fans. I emailed MSI (my motherboard manufacturer) and this is what I got back regarding my CPU fan header
> So I am assuming it doesn't support PVM fans. What do I need to install the H220? Thanks


I think you mean PWM. What model motherboard do you have? Check your manual, it should have a section on fan headers.

It looks like the Z77 boards only have PWM control on the CPU fan header. The image below is from the Mpower board.


----------



## Isewake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I think you mean PWM. What model motherboard do you have? Check your manual, it should have a section on fan headers.
> 
> It looks like the Z77 boards only have PWM control on the CPU fan header. The image below is from the Mpower board.


Yes, meant PWM. I have a P67 board.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isewake*
> 
> Yes, meant PWM. I have a P67 board.


Alright, according to the manual for the P67A series boards, only the CPU header has PWM control. Check your BIOS and see if you can force it to operate on PWM.

Edit: People are saying to use the MSI Control Center software to set fan speeds.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I think you mean PWM. What model motherboard do you have? Check your manual, it should have a section on fan headers.
> 
> It looks like the Z77 boards only have PWM control on the CPU fan header. The image below is from the Mpower board.


Isn't this the reason the swiftech h220 comes with a PWM controller?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I think you mean PWM. What model motherboard do you have? Check your manual, it should have a section on fan headers.
> 
> It looks like the Z77 boards only have PWM control on the CPU fan header. The image below is from the Mpower board.


They actually say Fan Control on their documentation. A nicely ambiguous term that doesn't let you know what really is going on. I assumed it mean PWM signal since it functions correctly on my Z77IA-E53.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Isn't this the reason the swiftech h220 comes with a PWM controller?


The main reason it comes with a PWM splitter is to ensure the fans and pump receive enough wattage and amperage. The fan headers can only supply so much, the splitter allows you to use a molex connector for power.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The main reason it comes with a PWM splitter is to ensure the fans and pump receive enough wattage and amperage. The fan headers can only supply so much, the splitter allows you to use a molex connector for power.


Yes, I know this. From my understanding, Isewake is concerned his mobo doesn't support PWM. Isn't this the reason for why the PWM controller is included? Or does the PWM splitter just act as a expansion for more fan inputs?


----------



## Isewake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Yes, I know this. From my understanding, Isewake is concerned his mobo doesn't support PWM. Isn't this the reason for why the PWM controller is included? Or does the PWM splitter just act as a expansion for more fan inputs?


I thought it was just a splitter. If it's a controller, it should be no problem, right? So instead of connecting to my CPU fan header, I connect it to a four pin molex?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The main reason it comes with a PWM splitter is to ensure the fans and pump receive enough wattage and amperage. The fan headers can only supply so much, the splitter allows you to use a molex connector for power.


The main reason this splitter was included is because most motherboards don't have very many PWM headers. So with our splitter you're getting extra headers to control your PWM devices. We recommend using this splitter with a PWM motherboard header because voltage control can quickly degrade PWM devices if you try to regulate them with voltage. PWM devices typically require a steady supply of 12 volts and then use a pulse width modulated signal to regulate the speed of the device.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The main reason this splitter was included is because most motherboards don't have very many PWM headers. So with our splitter you're getting extra headers to control your PWM devices. We recommend using this splitter with a PWM motherboard header because voltage control can quickly degrade PWM devices if you try to regulate them with voltage. PWM devices typically require a steady supply of 12 volts and then use a pulse width modulated signal to regulate the speed of the device.


Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## Isewake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The main reason this splitter was included is because most motherboards don't have very many PWM headers. So with our splitter you're getting extra headers to control your PWM devices. We recommend using this splitter with a PWM motherboard header because voltage control can quickly degrade PWM devices if you try to regulate them with voltage. PWM devices typically require a steady supply of 12 volts and then use a pulse width modulated signal to regulate the speed of the device.


So basically, I shouldn't use this cooler with my motherboard since it doesn't seem to have a PWM header. Is that correct?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Correct. Or you could run it full speed all the time.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Isewake*
> 
> So basically, I shouldn't use this cooler with my motherboard since it doesn't seem to have a PWM header. Is that correct?


Ok, someone else gets to officially answer this, but it's got to have one..... Has someone actually heard of a modern 1156 / 1155 / 2011 board without that capability?

I'm not cracking wise, it's a legitimate question, and if not, would this fella not just plug it in like suggested into the primary CPU header and run as directed?

[If it is there and labelled badly, or something equally stupid, is what I mean...]

Thanks - T


----------



## Isewake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Correct. Or you could run it full speed all the time.


Well maybe now I'll get a Haswell CPU. Been looking for an excuse to get one.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

It should be ok to run the cpu block/pump off the cpu header.

The fans should be hooked up to PWM 4 pin connector though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You are voltage regulating those fans. This is a bad idea, you will burn them out. It is better for you to sell those fans, and get some regular voltage controlled fans and run them off of the fan controller.


My older EVGA FTW3 x58 mobo has PWM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Ok, someone else gets to officially answer this, but it's got to have one..... Has someone actually heard of a modern 1156 / 1155 / 2011 board without that capability?
> 
> I'm not cracking wise, it's a legitimate question, and if not, would this fella not just plug it in like suggested into the primary CPU header and run as directed?
> 
> [If it is there and labelled badly, or something equally stupid, is what I mean...]
> 
> Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Ok, someone else gets to officially answer this, but it's got to have one..... Has someone actually heard of a modern 1156 / 1155 / 2011 board without that capability?
> 
> I'm not cracking wise, it's a legitimate question, and if not, would this fella not just plug it in like suggested into the primary CPU header and run as directed?
> 
> [If it is there and labelled badly, or something equally stupid, is what I mean...]
> 
> Thanks - T


my 790x AM2+ board has PWM, it just needs to be forced so i would assume halfway decent motherboards of the same vintage and newer support PWM.

I suggest people who are unsure to check BIOS settings to confirm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> It should be ok to run the cpu block/pump off the cpu header.


it _should_ be OK, but i think until its known, run everything h220 related from the splitter including the pump to be on the safe side. My first pump seemed to run ok from the CPU header and then failed for reasons unknown (not debris, being PWM modulated). I didnt want to take chances so the new one is splitter powered. This will prevent accidental voltage changes to the pump.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> my 790x AM2+ board has PWM, it just needs to be forced so i would assume halfway decent motherboards of the same vintage and newer support PWM.
> 
> I suggest people who are unsure to check BIOS settings to confirm.


See, that's my thing; I'm no software guy (I like hardware, hence this building hobby), but always checking BIOS before assuming things is a good way to start....
And with all the UEFI BIOSes (BIOSi?) these days, it's got to be easier than ever!!!

Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

My recommendation is to always always always hook the pump into the red socket on the splitter, the splitter to the CPU fan header, and the molex to your power supply. This way, regardless of if the header is PWM or not, your pump will receive the full 12v undetoured. If the header is voltage, the pump won't change from 100%. But if the header is PWM, you can adjust it accordingly. This way you cannot damage the pump from undervolting. It may be undesireable to hear your pump at 3000 rpm if pwm is not supported, but I guarantee it is even less desireable to kill your pump by forgoing the splitter.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I ordered 2 helix 120mm non PWM fans yesterday. I think I'm gonna return them and order the PWM versions. I wasn't using the PWM splitter until I was told it's bad to use PWM fans on a fan controller.

In my bios under "PC Health Status", it gives me the option to use PWM power or DC power.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> See, that's my thing; I'm no software guy (I like hardware, hence this building hobby), but always checking BIOS before assuming things is a good way to start....
> And with all the UEFI BIOSes (BIOSi?) these days, it's got to be easier than ever!!!
> 
> Thanks - T


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> In my bios under "Power management setup", it gives me the option to use PWM power or DC power.


good to know. What was it set to by default? DC power would mean voltage control, and _could_ factor into maybe a few failures in the thread.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> good to know. What was it set to by default? DC power would mean voltage control, and _could_ factor into maybe a few failures in the thread.


I'm pretty sure PWM was set by default.

EDIT: I got that wrong. It's not power management setup, it's under PC Health Status then Smartfan Function


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> My recommendation is to always always always hook the pump into the red socket on the splitter, the splitter to the CPU fan header, and the molex to your power supply. This way, regardless of if the header is PWM or not, your pump will receive the full 12v undetoured. If the header is voltage, the pump won't change from 100%. But if the header is PWM, you can adjust it accordingly. This way you cannot damage the pump from undervolting. It may be undesireable to hear your pump at 3000 rpm if pwm is not supported, but I guarantee it is even less desireable to kill your pump by forgoing the splitter.


Phelan is exactly right. To prevent any issues it's best to use the splitter the way it was designed. Having it connected to the CPU fan header and then connecting the pump to Channel 1 on the splitter is the best way to ensure that the pump is getting the voltage that it requires.


----------



## Martinm210

Not sure others have been following, but Stren just posted up some GPU flow rate sensitivity data on a Titan roundup.

What catches my attention is the very good performance at lower flow rates. I measured the h220 maxing out in flow rate at about 0.6GPM so running two GPU block in parallel could mean the gpu loops would only see 0.3 GPM. I wondered if that is enough.

This seems to indicate yes for actual thermal performance especially with the aquacomputers block:


----------



## mastahg

Got my replacement kit yesterday. Installed using the corsair standoffs + thumbscrews made the install go much much easier.



http://imgur.com/L3Am29g


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> Got my replacement kit yesterday. Installed using the corsair standoffs + thumbscrews made the install go much much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/L3Am29g


You're one of the first people that I've heard of that actually liked their mounting system better than ours. I'm glad it worked for you and don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions or concerns with your replacement.


----------



## Regorian

Finally part of the club! Love the performance of this thing.


----------



## bond32

Perhaps a silly question, and I intend to use SpeedFan when I get mine installed, but suppose I connect the splitter to the CPU fan header (PWM) and connect the pump and two stock helix fans to the splitter. How is everything controlled, if at all? The signal from speedfan changes both the pump and fans at the same rate? Also I have 2 corsair sp120's coming in which are pwm as well. Would it be better to control them separately? The helix fans will perform around a certain RPM and the corsair at a different RPM. So I just wonder if the PWM splitter being controlled by speedfan/board would set the fans to the same or different rpm.


----------



## bond32

Perhaps a silly question, and I intend to use SpeedFan when I get mine installed, but suppose I connect the splitter to the CPU fan header (PWM) and connect the pump and two stock helix fans to the splitter. How is everything controlled, if at all? The signal from speedfan changes both the pump and fans at the same rate? Also I have 2 corsair sp120's coming in which are pwm as well. Would it be better to control them separately? The helix fans will perform around a certain RPM and the corsair at a different RPM. So I just wonder if the PWM splitter being controlled by speedfan/board would set the fans to the same or different rpm.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Perhaps a silly question, and I intend to use SpeedFan when I get mine installed, but suppose I connect the splitter to the CPU fan header (PWM) and connect the pump and two stock helix fans to the splitter. How is everything controlled, if at all? The signal from speedfan changes both the pump and fans at the same rate? Also I have 2 corsair sp120's coming in which are pwm as well. Would it be better to control them separately? The helix fans will perform around a certain RPM and the corsair at a different RPM. So I just wonder if the PWM splitter being controlled by speedfan/board would set the fans to the same or different rpm.


The PWM signal would regulate the fans to a % of their variable range. If the max RPM is greater than the helix, the fans would spin faster, if its less than the helix they would spin slower. If you are going to use both fan types on the same radiator, pair the helix in push / pull and the SP120s in push / pull so you do not damage the fans.


----------



## Hyp0xia

I posted a thread about this earlier and was directed here. I picked up a Swiftech H220 this morning, came home, and installed it in my rig. This is my first liquid cooler, but I'm guessing something is not quite right. While it is keeping the temperatures down on my CPU, I can hear the coolant flowing constantly. It sounds like someone left the sink on in the other room. I've been told I may have some air bubbles or an inadequate amount of coolant. Does that sound about right and, if so, do you think I should just return it for a different one, given that I have thirty days to bring it back to the store?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyp0xia*
> 
> I posted a thread about this earlier and was directed here. I picked up a Swiftech H220 this morning, came home, and installed it in my rig. This is my first liquid cooler, but I'm guessing something is not quite right. While it is keeping the temperatures down on my CPU, I can hear the coolant flowing constantly. It sounds like someone left the sink on in the other room. I've been told I may have some air bubbles or an inadequate amount of coolant. Does that sound about right and, if so, do you think I should just return it for a different one, given that I have thirty days to bring it back to the store?


You can do that if you so wish, or you can just remove the radiator and top it off with a little distilled water. After that the noise will go away in a day or two.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyp0xia*
> 
> I posted a thread about this earlier and was directed here. I picked up a Swiftech H220 this morning, came home, and installed it in my rig. This is my first liquid cooler, but I'm guessing something is not quite right. While it is keeping the temperatures down on my CPU, I can hear the coolant flowing constantly. It sounds like someone left the sink on in the other room. I've been told I may have some air bubbles or an inadequate amount of coolant. Does that sound about right and, if so, do you think I should just return it for a different one, given that I have thirty days to bring it back to the store?


What case is it in? how/where is it installed (top, front, etc)? Is the reservoir cap pointing up, down, or sideways?


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're one of the first people that I've heard of that actually liked their mounting system better than ours. I'm glad it worked for you and don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions or concerns with your replacement.


I had a similar feeling in my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/950#post_19612269

The backplate setup for this mounting kit is not as easy to work with as Corsairs. I didn't think of using the standoffs and screws from the corsair kit. That will make my life a LOT easier the next time I have to pull this apart. Thanks for the tip on that!


----------



## Hyp0xia

It's in a Fractal Design Define R4. I first had it with the reservoir cap facing downward and then I tried upward. Both has the same issue.


----------



## TheGovernment

I like to see some evidence that using pwm fans on voltage cuts their life span. My very good friend has a server farm with over 500 servers. I was talking to him last night as he just got a 220 for his personal pc and laughed at that. He's got almost 4000 fans in his servers and they are all pwm fans and he runs them with voltage controllers and has never had a fan fail yet. Running 24/7 for years. I think they are Delta pwm fans.
Although it may be true to some extent, it gets overblown just like everything else on the net. I've got 8 cougar pwm and 4 nzxt pwm fans in my case, runs 24/7 on the synthe voltage controller and have also not had a failure of any kind on any system on any fan I've ever had that was pwm.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I like to see some evidence that using pwm fans on voltage cuts their life span. My very good friend has a server farm with over 500 servers. I was talking to him last night as he just got a 220 for his personal pc and laughed at that. He's got almost 4000 fans in his servers and they are all pwm fans and he runs them with voltage controllers and has never had a fan fail yet. Running 24/7 for years. I think they are Delta pwm fans.
> Although it may be true to some extent, it gets overblown just like everything else on the net. I've got 8 cougar pwm and 4 nzxt pwm fans in my case, runs 24/7 on the synthe voltage controller and have also not had a failure of any kind on any system on any fan I've ever had that was pwm.


To each their own...I definitely wouldn't run the pump that way though.


----------



## ez12a

he is more than free to do voltage modulation on his h220 and report back.


----------



## Hyp0xia

So I exchanged my Swiftech H220 for another one and guess what? More waterfall noise!


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyp0xia*
> 
> So I exchanged my Swiftech H220 for another one and guess what? More waterfall noise!


it's pretty typical and h220s shouldnt be exhcanged or returned for a waterfall noise









top her off with some distilled or mount it so the fill cap is pointed up and you should be good. Topped mine off and even with the fill port facing down i dont get any water fall noise. I do get a slight rushing water noise at full speed but no pee-pee trickle.


----------



## Hyp0xia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it's pretty typical and h220s shouldnt be exhcanged or returned for a waterfall noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> top her off with some distilled or mount it so the fill cap is pointed up and you should be good. Topped mine off and even with the fill port facing down i dont get any water fall noise. I do get a slight rushing water noise at full speed but no pee-pee trickle.


Thank you. I will give it a shot.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I like to see some evidence that using pwm fans on voltage cuts their life span. My very good friend has a server farm with over 500 servers. I was talking to him last night as he just got a 220 for his personal pc and laughed at that. He's got almost 4000 fans in his servers and they are all pwm fans and he runs them with voltage controllers and has never had a fan fail yet. Running 24/7 for years.


What it comes down to is that the fans are designed and tested to run at 12v, and while they may run fine with undervolting there's no guarantee that it won't have an adverse effect on their MTBF. It could also introduce motor noise that isn't present when operating at 12v.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyp0xia*
> 
> So I exchanged my Swiftech H220 for another one and guess what? More waterfall noise!


That noise should last 1-2 days at full speed. If you have the fill port down, the sound would last longer to lessen the sound.
If you want to run the speed of the pump lower, make sure it is plugged into a PWM header.
Not all mobo have correct cpu headers (if you do not know, check your manual) and check bios to see if set to voltage or PWM.


----------



## TheGovernment

I never said anything about the pump, just fans


----------



## TheGovernment

delete


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> What it comes down to is that the fans are designed and tested to run at 12v, and while they may run fine with undervolting there's no guarantee that it won't have an adverse effect on their MTBF. It could also introduce motor noise that isn't present when operating at 12v.


"could" "no guarantee" is exactly my point, we don't really know. It's more or less assumed. Theres no guarantee that they won't be perfectly fine either.


----------



## Nightz2k

Ok, I was happy with mine until now. It's got a sound, like a fluttering ? Pretty loud and annoying, not sure how to explain the sound, it's definitely the pump cause I checked all the fans. I ran it full speed for a full day, half speed and the only time I really can't hear it is when I have SpeedFan setting down to 20%, that seems too low IMO, especially on high overclocks. Still not acceptable.

I did top it off with distilled, no change at all, it was actually pretty full as it was. I got the units from Neweggs 2nd batch. I'm pretty sure I did what I can on my side.









*EDIT*: Just adding that I've had it for 2 weeks now and it was working fine up until the last 2-3 days.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I like to see some evidence that using pwm fans on voltage cuts their life span. My very good friend has a server farm with over 500 servers. I was talking to him last night as he just got a 220 for his personal pc and laughed at that. He's got almost 4000 fans in his servers and they are all pwm fans and he runs them with voltage controllers and has never had a fan fail yet. Running 24/7 for years. I think they are Delta pwm fans.
> Although it may be true to some extent, it gets overblown just like everything else on the net. I've got 8 cougar pwm and 4 nzxt pwm fans in my case, runs 24/7 on the synthe voltage controller and have also not had a failure of any kind on any system on any fan I've ever had that was pwm.


Laugh all you want but a 3000 rpm case fan is a very different animal than an 1800 rpm radiator fan. Plus I never personally said that voltage modulation would kill a fan, but it HAS been proven to kill the pump. It has also been proven by Linus that modulating the voltage on PWM Helix fans will give less than desirable results, because the RPMs will plummet way too rapidly with less than 12v. Linus ran 9v converting low noise adapters on the PWM Helix fans and the RPMs dropped to 600. Most fan controllers will use 9v as their first or second notch down, so the speed reduction is way too drastic to use on them. Non-PWM Helix fans don't have this problem.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Ok, I was happy with mine until now. It's got a sound, like a fluttering ? Pretty loud and annoying, not sure how to explain the sound, it's definitely the pump cause I checked all the fans. I ran it full speed for a full day, half speed and the only time I really can't hear it is when I have SpeedFan setting down to 20%, that seems too low IMO, especially on high overclocks. Still not acceptable.
> 
> I did top it off with distilled, no change at all, it was actually pretty full as it was. I got the units from Neweggs 2nd batch. I'm pretty sure I did what I can on my side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*: Just adding that I've had it for 2 weeks now and it was working fine up until the last 2-3 days.


At 20% the pump will run about 1600-1700 rpm IIRC, which is more than enough flow when cooling just the CPU. Only the fans may need to be set higher.

BTW it sounds to me like an air bubble stuck in the pump. If you can, try setting your rig on its side and pulling the radiator out, elevating it as high as you can and flick the pump with your fingers a few times.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> At 20% the pump will run about 1600-1700 rpm IIRC, which is more than enough flow when cooling just the CPU. Only the fans may need to be set higher.
> 
> BTW it sounds to me like an air bubble stuck in the pump. If you can, try setting your rig on its side and pulling the radiator out, elevating it as high as you can and flick the pump with your fingers a few times.


I've moved it plenty of times, had the rad out, on top and moved it around, side to side, upside down, and so on, nothing changed. I can try again, but I doubt it will change anything.

I'm pretty active on OCN _(reading anyway)_, so I keep up with what's going on here. I've done the troubleshooting most have said before and everything is setup like it's supposed to be other than the fillport being upside down, which from what I'm aware of, it should be fine after being topped off, which I did.


----------



## Nightz2k

Here's a quick video I just uploaded with my camera. Picks up the sound just as I hear it and I moved it away a bit to prove it's definitely the pump. _(Unfortunately)_






That's at 100% speed.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Here's a quick video I just uploaded with my camera. Picks up the sound just as I hear it and I moved it away a bit to prove it's definitely the pump. _(Unfortunately)_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's at 100% speed.


That's not right. Better plan on an RMA. They will take care of you though, no worries.

Mine is pretty silent and only makes a slight whine at full speed a few dbA. I did have some air pockets and some trickle noise initially, but after some bleeding and topping off, it was smooth. Yours sounds very different, perhaps having a debris issue or something.


----------



## ez12a

almost sounds like the impeller inside is tapping on something.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> That's not right. Better plan on an RMA. They will take care of you though, no worries.
> 
> Mine is pretty silent and only makes a slight whine at full speed a few dbA. I did have some air pockets and some trickle noise initially, but after some bleeding and topping off, it was smooth. Yours sounds very different, perhaps having a debris issue or something.


If it's debris, I'll have to buy some coolant as I only have distilled water at the moment. But I would try that if that's a possibility. I've yet to ever have to RMA any hardware.

Should I even be running it anymore ? I still have the H100i as a backup, just hate to go through the taking apart, reinstalling and whatnot. It's not that hard, just wasn't expecting to.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> If it's debris, I'll have to buy some coolant as I only have distilled water at the moment. But I would try that if that's a possibility. I've yet to ever have to RMA any hardware.
> 
> Should I even be running it anymore ? I still have the H100i as a backup, just hate to go through the taking apart, reinstalling and whatnot. It's not that hard, just wasn't expecting to.


I had a very similar problem with the pump i got back from my initial rma (your video sounds very much like mine did). I even ran all the liquid in my loop through a coffee filter and it did not solve it (the debris were trapped inside the pump). I was told by Bryan at swiftech to flush the pump and loop with distilled water 3-5 times. Send Bryan (BramSLI1 on this site) a pm, and I am sure he can tell you the steps to properly flush it all if you do not know how.

Also, just filter the coolant currently in the loop when you empty, then flush everything with distilled, refill the loop with the filtered coolant and top it off with distilled.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *italstal*
> 
> I had a very similar problem with the pump i got back from my initial rma (your video sounds very much like mine did). I even ran all the liquid in my loop through a coffee filter and it did not solve it (the debris were trapped inside the pump). I was told by Bryan at swiftech to flush the pump and loop with distilled water 3-5 times. Send Bryan (BramSLI1 on this site) a pm, and I am sure he can tell you the steps to properly flush it all if you do not know how.
> 
> Also, just filter the coolant currently in the loop when you empty, then flush everything with distilled, refill the loop with the filtered coolant and top it off with distilled.


Thanks, got your PM on it. I might give it a shot doing it that way if I have to.


----------



## dsmwookie

Pic of the HAF-XB in action.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsm... Modding/20130515_222112_zpsf7268a8b.jpg.html

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsm... Modding/20130515_222137_zps5df434a4.jpg.html

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsm... Modding/20130511_021000_zps8e8ae895.jpg.html


----------



## bond32

Nice. I'll be putting mine in my haf xb too. But why do you have your fans set up that way? Wouldn't it be better to switch the direction of airflow on either the h220 fans or your back radiator? Seems like they would be fighting for cool air...


----------



## Ardi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Here's a quick video I just uploaded with my camera. Picks up the sound just as I hear it and I moved it away a bit to prove it's definitely the pump. _(Unfortunately)_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's at 100% speed.


This is the same exact noise I was hearing from the pump even after a SUCCESSFUL flush of the system.


----------



## dsmwookie

All the fans are setup to intake. I have both radiators in push pull. At least I m pretty sure they are set to intake. I figured the 90mm fans underneath the HAF-XB can exhaust and Ill put some 120/140s on the top to intake as well.

I appreciate the compliments. I m excited about the the little copper plate for the VRMs. I d like to get a second one and X-fire the 7950s, but I m kind of waiting on news about the 8000 series first.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> This is the same exact noise I was hearing from the pump even after a SUCCESSFUL flush of the system.


Sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get this resolved for you one way or another.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> All the fans are setup to intake. I have both radiators in push pull. At least I m pretty sure they are set to intake. I figured the 90mm fans underneath the HAF-XB can exhaust and Ill put some 120/140s on the top to intake as well.
> 
> I appreciate the compliments. I m excited about the the little copper plate for the VRMs. I d like to get a second one and X-fire the 7950s, but I m kind of waiting on news about the 8000 series first.


The fans on your radiators are set up as exhaust because they're pushing air out of your case. You'll get better temperature results on your water cooled components by setting them up as intakes instead.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The fans on your radiators are set up as exhaust because they're pushing air out of your case. You'll get better temperature results on your water cooled components by setting them up as intakes instead.


it looks like everything is setup as exhaust in the pictures and as described. this is a massively negative pressure system lol.









I would have either all intake and the HAF's case fans as exhaust, or have the case fans as intake and the 2 radiators exhausting air.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it looks like everything is setup as exhaust in the pictures and as described. this is a massively negative pressure system lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have either all intake and the HAF's case fans as exhaust, or have the case fans as intake and the 2 radiators exhausting air.


Do you think a single 140mm fan is enough to exhaust a case?


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The fans on your radiators are set up as exhaust because they're pushing air out of your case. You'll get better temperature results on your water cooled components by setting them up as intakes instead.


Well SOB. I m sure they would since my house stays at 68F or lower year round :<

Guess I got some work to do. Pass it onto whoever makes your fans to put a little arrow on it for us idiots :


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Do you think a single 140mm fan is enough to exhaust a case?


by sheer virtue of one fan, probably not. but, since you have essentially 8 fans pushing air in (2x push/pull rad), air will be pushed out of the case through other vents and openings. the 140mm is aiding that process.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it looks like everything is setup as exhaust in the pictures and as described. this is a massively negative pressure system lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have either all intake and the HAF's case fans as exhaust, or have the case fans as intake and the 2 radiators exhausting air.


The 2x 90mm fans hes talking about are actually 80mm fans and they are pointless in the haf xb case in my opinion. Honestly I would take them out as they do nothing unless you have the drive bay near them full of ssd's. If I were him, I would have the h220 as intake and the back 120mm as exhaust but some say more positive pressure is better, so perhaps all rad fans as intake. There is also a 200mm fan in this case that is on top, could run that as the only exhaust fan.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> by sheer virtue of one fan, probably not. but, since you have essentially 8 fans pushing air in (2x push/pull rad), air will be pushed out of the case through other vents and openings. the 140mm is aiding that process.


Here's the current layout: 200mm front intake, 200mm side intake, 140mm exhaust and the H220 fans on exhaust.


----------



## bond32

Assuming your h220 is horizontal mounted up top, some say that should always be exhaust due to the added dust problem. If it were intake up top of the case, dust would be accumulating much quicker.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Here's the current layout: 200mm front intake, 200mm side intake, 140mm exhaust and the H220 fans on exhaust.


should be fine. those 2x200mm fans should keep the in case temps hopefully near ambient. depends how hard your 480 is working at the time.

Before I added a 2nd radiator, i had a single 120mm exhaust on the rear, and everything else intaking. My 670 always ran hot with its reference cooler so it didnt appear to make a difference to me whether the h220 was exhaust or intake. I preferred intake at the time.

Ever since adding a 2nd radiator where the 120mm was I didnt want one radiator to be pushing air into another so both are now exhaust and i have a single 200mm intake in the front.

edit: you might want to try flipping the 140mm to intake too, to feed cold air into the h220 (exhaust).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Well SOB. I m sure they would since my house stays at 68F or lower year round :<
> 
> Guess I got some work to do. Pass it onto whoever makes your fans to put a little arrow on it for us idiots :


The rule of thumb for fans is that the air moves in the direction of the curvature of the blades. In other words as you're looking at the fan if the tips of the blades are pointing away from you then that's the direction of the air being pushed by the fans. I hope this helps to clarify this a little and yes, I'll see if we can also have a directional arrow put on our fans.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Wow, I'm impressed by this cooler. I have a i7 930 @ 4.2ghz and running a stress test right now. Hasn't broke 57c. Been running for 30 mins so far.


----------



## dsmwookie

Sorry on the fan size on bottom, it is (2) 80mm fans. Case will be modded with a radiator there and a 360 put on the bottom and all drive cages removed. Glad to learn about the fans. I m sure that will make a big difference.


----------



## skywalkr

delete. received PM to solve the issue.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Wow, I'm impressed by this cooler. I have a i7 930 @ 4.2ghz and running a stress test right now. Hasn't broke 57c. Been running for 30 mins so far.


nice. my friend with a death claw grip on his h50 cooling his 920 would be happy to know this.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> nice. my friend with a death claw grip on his h50 cooling his 920 would be happy to know this.


What a coincidence, I came from a H50. With my h50 it would get up in the 80's. Very glad I upgraded.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalkr*
> 
> Is the pump supposed to get progressively louder? Like it's revving up and down on idle and load? It's annoyingly loud on idle... and when loading up a game/putting it under any load it gets considerably louder. It's louder than all the fans in my case put together (7), and I can hear it with my headphones on while gaming... It's simply too distracting and I have a pretty good tolerance when it comes to noise. Sort of have a stale taste in my mouth with my AIO experience lately (the H100i was completely silent, even the pump, but the LED burnt out so I decided to try something "higher" in quality). Spent some time with it yesterday getting the air bubbles out and then after making it completely silent (which wasn't too big of a problem, but was sort of an annoyance after seeing Swiftech parading how this kit is "plug and play", no maintenance required and that they were all tested before leaving, I watched the CEO's video and read here how they were all exclusively tested), and then the pump started to get noisy. It was silent for a good 5-6 hours... Perfect actually. I was really happy and left a nice review on NewEgg for it and maybe should have gave it a day or two first. It also came with paint chipped off on the corners... Again, minor annoyances... Not even going to bother RMAing it because of the hassle. I'll stick my burnt out LED H100i back on... use the H220 pump as a hood ornament, and keep the rest of the pieces until I get proper water cooling gear. I know it's not good to judge a company by one product, but it's hard to trust Swiftech again. I read about how their first batch had fragments/shavings in the loop and that their next batches were supposed to be better. Seems rushed or as if Swiftech wasn't ready to release an AIO product just yet. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. I'm done with AIOs. In my experience, they all suck and you get what you pay for.


Sent you a PM. I'm very sorry to hear about your experience with this kit and I hope you're open to resolving it.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Assuming your h220 is horizontal mounted up top, some say that should always be exhaust due to the added dust problem. If it were intake up top of the case, dust would be accumulating much quicker.


Ehhhh, no not really... That's where the myriad of fan filters available come in. I'm a firm believer in the "All radiators = Intake" philosophy, regardless of direction of flow in comparison to gravity (and it's dusty travelers)!










Thanks - T


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok guys just a little update. The green and blue wires on the splitter are in reversed order of the common color scheme with green being the pwm signal. So, another factor ruled out since the green goes in the splitter as the pwm signal and also goes to cpufan header cable as the PWM signal. I don't think this is a problem since is just a matter of which color was used. In fact from a quick search over the web I can tell is very common on the splitter to have the green wire in the position of the blue and vice versa. You guys might check to confirm this. So, right now I am thinking the problem of intermittent zero rpm pump failure (particularly while stressing) might be related to the PSU. I am waiting for another psu from a friend to test this hypothesis.

Anyone else experiencing this same problem? If so are you using a corsair PSU (particularly a ax860i)?

Gabriel


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok guys just a little update. The green and blue wires on the splitter are in reversed order of the common color scheme with green being the pwm signal. So, another factor ruled out since the green goes in the splitter as the pwm signal and also goes to cpufan header cable as the PWM signal. I don't think this is a problem since is just a matter of which color was used. In fact from a quick search over the web I can tell is very common on the splitter to have the green wire in the position of the blue and vice versa. You guys might check to confirm this. So, right now I am thinking the problem of intermittent zero rpm pump failure (particularly while stressing) might be related to the PSU. I am waiting for another psu from a friend to test this hypothesis.
> 
> Anyone else experiencing this same problem? If so are you using a corsair PSU (particularly a ax860i)?
> 
> Gabriel


Thanks for the update Gabriel. I'm looking into the wires now to see if this is in fact an issue. Let me know what you find regarding the PSU replacement because as of right now we've been unable to find any issues with the kit that you returned to us. Here is the update: The blue and green wires that connect to the PWM splitter or connect to your motherboard's CPU fan header shouldn't be reversed. The blue wire needs to be on the far right of splitter connector. If it isn't then there are going to be issues with being able to control the speed of this pump. As far as we can tell this won't damage it, but connecting it improperly can damage the circuits. What I mean by this is if you connect the splitter with it being either too far to the left or the right of the connector then this will cause damage to the circuits of this pump. Just make sure when you connect it that all four pins are properly connected to all four slots on the connector.


----------



## bond32

Just got mine installed. Very pleased! Much better quality over the h100i and kraken x60 I have had before. I have speedfan installed, adjusting the PWM % doesn't seem to change anything. Perhaps I need to play with it some more. Pump is running at full RPM I believe. Still don't hear it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Dear Bryan

here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.

cheers

Gabriel


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Dear Bryan
> 
> here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Gabriel


The pictures you posted show the splitter wires are in their correct orientation. That isn't going to cause the problem that you're experiencing.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Bryan
> 
> here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Gabriel


The cable going from the splitter to the CPU header looks fine, but what about between the pump and CH1 on the splitter? Do you have a photo of the pump-end of that cable? THAT is where I suspect it may be twisted...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> The cable going from the splitter to the CPU header looks fine, but what about between the pump and CH1 on the splitter? Do you have a photo of the pump-end of that cable? THAT is where I suspect it may be twisted...


His picture in the middle shows that the pump is plugged in correctly and that the wires are in the correct positions.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> The cable going from the splitter to the CPU header looks fine, but what about between the pump and CH1 on the splitter? Do you have a photo of the pump-end of that cable? THAT is where I suspect it may be twisted...
> 
> 
> 
> His picture in the middle shows that the pump is plugged in correctly and that the wires are in the correct positions.
Click to expand...

All I see in that middle picture is the splitter end of the cable, not the end that's at the pump. My concern is that the cable between the pump and splitter may be twisted. Is it even possible to see the wires at the pump?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just got mine installed. Very pleased! Much better quality over the h100i and kraken x60 I have had before. I have speedfan installed, adjusting the PWM % doesn't seem to change anything. Perhaps I need to play with it some more. Pump is running at full RPM I believe. Still don't hear it.


Check out the video I posted in my YouTube channel on configuring speedfan. I'm on my cell otherwise I would post a link. Channel name in my SIG.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Not the best picture but yes, all good with the wire coming from the pump too. Blue outside and green by its side just like the other end going to the splitter...


----------



## BlackSupra

So I picked up an H220 a week ago and the pump noise was really loud. I tried tilting the case on every angle and changing the pump speed to try and get rid of any bubbles and the noise did eventually go away and I was really happy with how it was performing both in terms of cooling and acoustic performance. However, this morning when I woke up and turned my PC on I could hear an annoying ticking sound even when the pump was at 20%.. I turned it up to 100% and this is a video of what I found (linked below). Honestly this is really disappointing for such a "premium" product. I really hope one of you have had a similar problem and can tell me what to do to fix it? In the video I tried to film different areas of my case to prove that it really is the H220 pump.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Not the best picture but yes, all good with the wire coming from the pump too. Blue outside and green by its side just like the other end going to the splitter...


Damn, oh well. I wish you luck tracking down the issue!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Guys, another update. Is not the PSU either since I change it to another one and the same problem happen. At this point I can only think of a problem in the MB cpu fanheader or that lightning can strike two times in the same place (or I am a lightning rod of sorts







)... Bryan, I known you have not being able to reproduce the error I found so far but the conditions are not the same. In my case it always happen while stressing the system (prime95 or gaming) and running the pump at full speed would not trigger it....

One last shot would be to take the h220 and put it on a complete different system, something I will try soon. Another shot would be to drain the h220, flush it and refill it.

Cheers

Gabriel


----------



## Hyp0xia

It seems like there are way too many people having issues with this cooler and many are experiencing the same ticking/grinding that I'm noticing from the pump. While I'm beyond satisfied with its cooling performance, I'm thinking about returning it at this point because I'd much rather have the money in my pocket and a slightly warmer CPU.


----------



## TeeBlack

what size are the short fan screws on the H220?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Guys, another update. Is not the PSU either since I change it to another one and the same problem happen. At this point I can only think of a problem in the MB cpu fanheader or that lightning can strike two times in the same place (or I am a lightning rod of sorts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )... Bryan, I known you have not being able to reproduce the error I found so far but the conditions are not the same. In my case it always happen while stressing the system (prime95 or gaming) and running the pump at full speed would not trigger it....
> 
> One last shot would be to take the h220 and put it on a complete different system, something I will try soon. Another shot would be to drain the h220, flush it and refill it.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Gabriel


Gabriel, your kit was flushed and filled prior to being shipped to you, so you shouldn't need to do it again. The other issue is that Stephen has informed me that the stress that the CPU is under won't have an affect on the way the pump performs. He should know because he's the one that engineered it. The only way this could affect the performance of the pump is if there is bad power being fed to it during times when the system is being stressed. I would have to say that if it isn't the PSU at this point then it is likely an issue with the motherboard. Please let me know what you find though when you test it on a different system. The unit that you sent back to us has thus far performed flawlessly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> what size are the short fan screws on the H220?


The screws used on this radiator are M3.5 screws. You can alternatively use 6-32 though as well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, agree that flushing is not necessary. I hear no noises, no bubbles or weird things coming from it. I will test on a complete different system and keep you posted. However, I have to say that the unit down here is performing flawless with the pump at maximum speed for a while now (just monitoring but the system is idle)... It is just when I stress the system (10 minutes prime95 would trigger it) that the pump goes to zero RPM and temps spike. I would agree at this point that the most likely cause is the cpufan header in my MB. I just want you to understand that the test you guys are doing (if is something in the two units of the H220) will not trigger the problem I am observing. Don't get me wrong Bryan, I can only praise so far the customer service provided by Swiftech and you in particular and also praise the h220 design. It is by far the best cooler I ever had with a combination of thermals and noise unsurpassed. But the fact remains that under the conditions I have been mentioning to you the pump does failure. At this point I am wishing it is caused by something bad in the cpu fanheader because that would be easy to fix (just replace the MB).

All the best wishes

Gabriel


----------



## skywalkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sent you a PM. I'm very sorry to hear about your experience with this kit and I hope you're open to resolving it.


Just wanted to follow up on this post. Bram PMed me shortly after, and happy to say that the issue is now solved. These guys really go the extra mile to help you out, and that's worth everything in my book. Not only did he offer to review the unit himself if I decided to send it in, he walked me through troubleshooting it and eventually solving the problem I had. Took a little bit of work but was worth it and I can now dissemble/reassemble the pump, filter/refill the coolant, and have no more problems getting rid of ANY air bubbles (this is extremely easy to do actually). And about half a day ago I knew nothing when it came to this stuff, and any of that would have freaked me out, so







.

Already anxious to order some more stuff from Swiftech and looking at the options I have to expanding my loop. I don't think there's any other company that offers what they do and have the support to go along with it. Very pleased.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyp0xia*
> 
> It seems like there are way too many people having issues with this cooler and many are experiencing the same ticking/grinding that I'm noticing from the pump. While I'm beyond satisfied with its cooling performance, I'm thinking about returning it at this point because I'd much rather have the money in my pocket and a slightly warmer CPU.


One of the number one reasons for these clubs is for troubleshooting, so you'll hear a lot more people talking about their problems than praise. No different than any other clubs on this board for 100% new products. Corsair H series AIOs had just as many complaints in their club thread about noisy pumps with the early units and even for several months. There are hundreds, thousands of people with these brand new units (initial shipment was 3000 units IIRC) that aren't having problems. You are hearing the voices of a small fraction of H220 owners.


----------



## Agoniizing

Just installed my H220! These temps are amazing! Delided 3770k 4.7GHz 1.34V.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalkr*
> 
> Just wanted to follow up on this post. Bram PMed me shortly after, and happy to say that the issue is now solved. These guys really go the extra mile to help you out, and that's worth everything in my book. Not only did he offer to review the unit himself if I decided to send it in, he walked me through troubleshooting it and eventually solving the problem I had. Took a little bit of work but was worth it and I can now dissemble/reassemble the pump, filter/refill the coolant, and have no more problems getting rid of ANY air bubbles (this is extremely easy to do actually). And about half a day ago I knew nothing when it came to this stuff, and any of that would have freaked me out, so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Already anxious to order some more stuff from Swiftech and looking at the options I have to expanding my loop. I don't think there's any other company that offers what they do and have the support to go along with it. Very pleased.


The Force is strong with this one. (Sorry I just had to







)


----------



## Nightz2k

I want to know what skywalkr did differently, because when I did everything that was advised, _(took pump apart, cleaned, flushed, refilled rad, etc)_ I still have the same exact noise issue after running it again.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Just installed my H220! These temps are amazing! Delided 3770k 4.7GHz 1.34V.


Can I ask what your room temp was when running that test?
I have a delidded 3770k also, so just curious.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Can I ask what your room temp was when running that test?
> I have a delidded 3770k also, so just curious.


23C


----------



## dramabeats

ok my pump is kinda loud... it's spinning at 3100 rpm, is this normal?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> ok my pump is kinda loud... it's spinning at 3100 rpm, is this normal?


Full speed is too loud for me, I run it at 30%, and I lose very little in cooling ability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> 23C


Thanks, those are good temps and a good chip you have there.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Full speed is too loud for me, I run it at 30%, and I lose very little in cooling ability.
> Thanks, those are good temps and a good chip you have there.


No problem man


----------



## dramabeats

what do you control it with? I tried from the bios on my ud3h and I can't figure out which setting to use, speedfan can only control it with the pump plugged into the cpu fan header by it self. I don't like having to start speedfan up everytime


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> what do you control it with? I tried from the bios on my ud3h and I can't figure out which setting to use, speedfan can only control it with the pump plugged into the cpu fan header by it self. I don't like having to start speedfan up everytime


Check out post #2822 here, he has a YouTube video for configuring speed fan, and you can have start it automatically. I don't use software though, I do it from bios. Mine is easy to set, but I am not familiar with yours, sorry.


----------



## dramabeats

thanks, how are these temps with nf-f12? prime95 blend


----------



## Mattb2e

I want to verify that I am understanding PWM fan/pump control, as it applies to my motherboard, correctly. With my motherboard I am given two values that are adjustable. I am given a fan target speed (range of 1-10), and a target CPU temperature. Now, the way I understand this is that the target fan speed is the minimum fan speed (or pump speed) provided the target temperature is met. The target temperature setting allows you to set a threshold at which the duty cycle is ramped up or down dependent on CPU load.

I am assuming that being there is a value from 1-10 for target fan speed that perhaps this is the percentage duty cycle 10%-100%. However assuming this, running at level 3 should equal 30%, however if that were true I would be running at 2100rpm.

I have set my CPU target to 50C and I have noticed that my pump speed is reporting 2319rpm (with level 3) at idle (below target temp) and about 2960rpm at load (above target temp). Do these figures seem appropriate?

Are there any risks of running at the minimum RPM for pump speed, and is my motherboard properly applying PWM?

Edit:
A setting of level 1 yields a pump RPM reading of ~2100RPM


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> thanks, how are these temps with nf-f12? prime95 blend


For a lidded Ivy, those temps are just fine, don't see anything wrong there. You have above average voltage requirements for 4.4, but nothing too bad.


----------



## Nightz2k

Ediited out since it wasn't the problem.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> For a lidded Ivy, those temps are just fine, don't see anything wrong there. You have above average voltage requirements for 4.4, but nothing too bad.


1.48v stable for 4.4ghz, I forgot to raise the clock im going further.
although I screenshoted a bit too early so it jumped to 75c, I'm doing some different settings now so i'll post results


----------



## Agoniizing

Case is dusty lol


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> 1.48v stable for 4.4ghz, I forgot to raise the clock im going further.
> although I screenshoted a bit too early so it jumped to 75c, I'm doing some different settings now so i'll post results


That voltage is pretty huge, my 3570k is at 4.4Ghz at only 1.20v. Can I assume those are default Blend temps?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> That voltage is pretty huge, my 3570k is at 4.4Ghz at only 1.20v. Can I assume those are default Blend temps?


oops, 1.24. Yes those are stock. Right now i'm running prime (1.45ghz 1.32V) and my temps are maxing out at 86c


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> oops, 1.24. Yes those are stock. Right now i'm running prime (1.45ghz 1.32V) and my temps are maxing out at 86c


I've not made the push to 4.5Ghz, I've heard it can take a pretty large jump in voltage. I have some stability issues at stock speeds and voltages, think I'm one of the few who has better stability when overclocked.


----------



## dramabeats

yep, I've tried 4.7 at 1.4v but I still got whea errors and a blue screen


----------



## Phelan

OP is updated with code to add the club to your sig!


----------



## Watagump

I am a H220 owner.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/imag0178hq.jpg/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am a H220 owner.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/imag0178hq.jpg/


That looks great! I like the way you have all of your cables neatly tied and secured and the color scheme looks really nice too. Welcome to the club.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The screws used on this radiator are M3.5 screws. You can alternatively use 6-32 though as well.


thanks


----------



## TeeBlack

double post


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am a H220 owner.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/imag0178hq.jpg/


congrats on your H220. is that a Phantom 630 case?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks great! I like the way you have all of your cables neatly tied and secured and the color scheme looks really nice too. Welcome to the club.


Thanks.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> congrats on your H220. is that a Phantom 630 case?


Yup.


----------



## circeseye

ok just thought i would add this since we all see more bad then good in this thread of users with the h220.

its been almost 4 weeks and my h220 has been flawless. (after figuring out why i couldnt lower the rpm, which was my fault)
its running at 1500 rpm with temps at 36c idle and just 48c load with an overclock of 4.4 with speedboost on, 3.8volt idle 4.084 boost.
the pump is silent and the fans are too actually. the only noise i ever hear is the gpu ramping up.
i cant wait to add my gpu to the loop this thing is amazing for my first time water cooled.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> ok just thought i would add this since we all see more bad then good in this thread of users with the h220.
> 
> its been almost 4 weeks and my h220 has been flawless. (after figuring out why i couldnt lower the rpm, which was my fault)
> its running at 1500 rpm with temps at 36c idle and just 48c load with an overclock of 4.4 with speedboost on, 3.8volt idle 4.084 boost.
> the pump is silent and the fans are too actually. the only noise i ever hear is the gpu ramping up.
> i cant wait to add my gpu to the loop this thing is amazing for my first time water cooled.












grats on your build! Get that gpu under water, i was happy when I did! Now i'm on a quest to make my PC quieter. 3x 7200 rpmspindle drives and a older 750TX power supply are my other main sources of noise now at least at idle.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Just installed my H220! These temps are amazing! Delided 3770k 4.7GHz 1.34V.


that's some really good temps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Guys, another update and hopefully the end of my ordeal. Got my other computer from work and install the h220 in it. The MB is a p9x79 deluxe (instead of the PRO I had it at home and giving me trouble). 30 minutes of prime95 and no problem so far. It looks promising since in the other MB about 10 minutes of prime95 was enough to bring the pump to fail. Looks like it was indeed a faulty cpu fan header causing all this problem. I will keep you posted after some hours of stressing but for the first time in months it looks like the problem is finally troubleshooted and was not a problem in the h220 (both units) I had in my hands. I think also my experience might help others which were having similar problems (I remember at least one other case in the h220 club reported) to troubleshoot this. Bryan, thanks a lot for all the help and I apologize for any inconvenience the RMA might have caused since it definitely looks like it was not a problem in my original h220 unit (if I recall it it was one of the first produced with serial number 85).
Thank you all for the help and for the great tips here in OC club.
Best wishes
Gabriel


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Guys, another update and hopefully the end of my ordeal. Got my other computer from work and install the h220 in it. The MB is a p9x79 deluxe (instead of the PRO I had it at home and giving me trouble). 30 minutes so far prime95 and no problem so far. It looks promising since in the other MB about 10 minutes of prime95 was enough to bring the pump to fail. Looks like it was indeed a faulty cpu fan header causing all this problem. I will keep you posted after some hours of stressing but for the first time in months it looks like the problem is finally troubleshooted and was not a problem in the h220 (both units) I had in my hands. I think also my experience might help others which were having similar problems (I remember at least one other case in the h220 club reported) to troubleshoot this. Bryan, thanks a lot for all the help and I apologize for any inconvenience the RMA might have caused since it definitely looks like it was not a problem in my original h220 unit (if I recall it it was one of the first produced with serial number 85).
> Thank you all for the help and for the great tips here in OC club.
> Best wishes
> Gabriel


Thank you so very much for the update Gabriel and I'm glad the issue appears to be resolved. Please let me know if you require any further assistance. You have my email address and I'm on this site quite frequently. Even after hours as many of you know.


----------



## witeboy07

I just want to say, that I have one of the first release sets and to this day, it hasnt failed me at all. Best first watercooling set for me. Good job swiftech!


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Only had mine since Tuesday but so far so good. Stress tested my cpu for about an hour. Honestly I can't hear the pump even at full speed. People need to realize that forums generally consist of people having trouble with their products.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, I fully agree. For those uncertain to pull the trigger on the h220 due to reports here in the forum rest assured that if by a minimum chance you happen to have a faulty unit this company will take care of you. The level of support I experienced the last two months to me speak volumes of Swiftech and I can only praise that







By the way, which other company you known that the chairman will contact you in person (not making any public fuss about it) to help you solve your problem? Furthermore, from the data presented previously in this forum the fail rates are very low. Mind you all that in my case was not their problem at all but we only come to realize that a defective cpu fan header was the problem after a while. By the way, after almost 3 hours now running prime95 all smooth like silk.










Gabriel


----------



## clspdhax1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> yep, I've tried 4.7 at 1.4v but I still got whea errors and a blue screen


I have the same CPU on an ASRock OC Formula, 4.7 everyday so far at 1.2V, idle around ~20C and around 55C at full load. It's probably your board components physical limit. If you are very determined to OC even further, find your favoritie manufacture flagship MB.

You can also try delidding your CPU, and replacing the TIM in there--that lowered my temps from 10-15C.


----------



## BradleyW

What is the rated noise level on the H220 at full speed? I've been waiting a full week for my unit to arrive and still no sign.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the rated noise level on the H220 at full speed? I've been waiting a full week for my unit to arrive and still no sign.


Not sure what the DB is suppose to be, but I had the Corsair H110 before this. The H220 is quieter, but neither of those pumps are loud in any way shape or form.


----------



## dramabeats

still having trouble controlling my pump through speedfan, anyone else using a UD3H? It'll control it if I plug the pump directly into the motherboard but not if its in the swiftech hub on channel 1, I've asked the guy who posted the speedfan setup video and he says it seems like it's being controlled by voltage when its plugged into the board but i have the cpu header set to 'pwm' in the bios. Also can I take the filler cap off to bleed the system while the computer is running? I can undo the fill port from the top of the case


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> still having trouble controlling my pump through speedfan, anyone else using a UD3H? It'll control it if I plug the pump directly into the motherboard but not if its in the swiftech hub on channel 1, I've asked the guy who posted the speedfan setup video and he says it seems like it's being controlled by voltage when its plugged into the board but i have the cpu header set to 'pwm' in the bios. Also can I take the filler cap off to bleed the system while the computer is running? I can undo the fill port from the top of the case


that would be me. sorry i couldnt help you but hopefully other people will chime in.

my reasonings:
-The splitter responds to only PWM signals, it's either broken or not receiving anything from the motherboard (due to the header being in voltage modulation).
-the pump changes speed when connected directly to the header, which when in voltage mode would still happen, and it even stops at 0 RPM in some situations (at POST, etc.), and plugging the pump into the splitter will run at full speed.
-The pump should never drop to 0 when powered by 12v w/ PWM modulation. I can literally set mine to 0% in speedfan and it will run at 1200 rpm. Conversely 100% = 3000 rpm. whereas my GTs powered by voltage shut off (Sys control). Rear 120mm is a pwm helix fan.

have you plugged in a 3 pin fan into that header instead of the pump to see if it changes speed?

hope you get it sorted.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Not sure others have been following, but Stren just posted up some GPU flow rate sensitivity data on a Titan roundup.
> 
> What catches my attention is the very good performance at lower flow rates. I measured the h220 maxing out in flow rate at about 0.6GPM so running two GPU block in parallel could mean the gpu loops would only see 0.3 GPM. I wondered if that is enough.
> 
> This seems to indicate yes for actual thermal performance especially with the aquacomputers block:


Actually I can confirm this from a user experience prospective.. I took the "extreme" system we built for CES home (shown in this 



 at 27:13); it is a 3930K based system running at 4.5 Ghz, with 2x HD7970's in XFire (blocks in parallel), and I use 3 x 24" monitors. Cooling is H220 kit + 2 x Komodo's + 1 MCR240 + 1 MCR220 - So there are plenty of devices pushing the pump to the limit. I like quiet, so running this in silent mode with all fans at min, and the pump at 2k. Me and the kids play Crysis 3 on this all day long on Sundays, and the cards never break 50.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that would be me. sorry i couldnt help you but hopefully other people will chime in.
> 
> my reasonings:
> -The splitter responds to only PWM signals, it's either broken or not receiving anything from the motherboard (due to the header being in voltage modulation).
> -the pump changes speed when connected directly to the header, which when in voltage mode would still happen, and it even stops at 0 RPM in some situations (at POST, etc.), and plugging the pump into the splitter will run at full speed.
> -The pump should never drop to 0 when powered by 12v w/ PWM modulation. I can literally set mine to 0% in speedfan and it will run at 1200 rpm. Conversely 100% = 3000 rpm. whereas my GTs powered by voltage shut off (Sys control). Rear 120mm is a pwm helix fan.
> 
> have you plugged in a 3 pin fan into that header instead of the pump to see if it changes speed?
> 
> hope you get it sorted.


I have my noctuas plugged into their own pwm header on the board and I can shut them off completely as well, pretty puzzled

right now I just have the pump plugged into the swiftech thing running at full speed cause I don't want to damage it, kind of annoying


----------



## Watagump

I run my pump full speed off of my CPU header, I see no reason not to. Its virtually silent, all my fans including the Noctua's are running off the controller my case came with. I am VERY picky about noise, anything over 20DB for a fan to me is loud.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I run my pump full speed off of my CPU header, I see no reason not to. Its virtually silent, all my fans including the Noctua's are running off the controller my case came with. I am VERY picky about noise, anything over 20DB for a fan to me is loud.


We think my header is controlling the pump via voltage instead of pwm, that's the issue. My pump is louder than my noctuas at 70%, may have air in the system but no one has told me whether or not I can take the fill cap off while the system is running to see if theres air bubbles.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> still having trouble controlling my pump through speedfan, anyone else using a UD3H? It'll control it if I plug the pump directly into the motherboard but not if its in the swiftech hub on channel 1, I've asked the guy who posted the speedfan setup video and he says it seems like it's being controlled by voltage when its plugged into the board but i have the cpu header set to 'pwm' in the bios. Also can I take the filler cap off to bleed the system while the computer is running? I can undo the fill port from the top of the case


I run a UD5H, did you set the header to manual control?


----------



## sleepy916

I just wanted to say the RMA process at Swiftech is amazing, two day cross shipped and free shipping back to them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> We think my header is controlling the pump via voltage instead of pwm, that's the issue. My pump is louder than my noctuas at 70%, may have air in the system but no one has told me whether or not I can take the fill cap off while the system is running to see if theres air bubbles.


Yes, you can leave the fill port cap off while the pump is running. This will help the trapped air to escape. Just make sure that your fill port is facing up of course and be careful when opening it so that it doesn't spill out onto any of your hardware when you take it off. Once the fluid level drops from the air escaping you can top it off with distilled water.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> We think my header is controlling the pump via voltage instead of pwm, that's the issue. My pump is louder than my noctuas at 70%, may have air in the system but no one has told me whether or not I can take the fill cap off while the system is running to see if theres air bubbles.


Tough call on whether checking while running would be wise. If the fluid level wasn't so high as to splash out while running, it would possibly be ok. You could always pull the rad out and look at it while running, or if you feel daring just put a whole bunch of towels and check it in place. My pump did make more noise at first, but was never loud.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can leave the fill port cap off while the pump is running. This will help the trapped air to escape. Just make sure that your fill port is facing up of course and be careful when opening it so that it doesn't spill out onto any of your hardware when you take it off. Once the fluid level drops from the air escaping you can top it off with distilled water.


Just curious on the whole distilled water thing. I do auto detailing, so I have a 100 gallon water tank with reverse osmosis water in it. I also have soft water at home, would either of those work. I know distilled isn't expensive, but just curious.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can leave the fill port cap off while the pump is running. This will help the trapped air to escape. Just make sure that your fill port is facing up of course and be careful when opening it so that it doesn't spill out onto any of your hardware when you take it off. Once the fluid level drops from the air escaping you can top it off with distilled water.


never opened the loop before, I figured me flipping it all around installing it would maybe make some air bubbles

EDIT: pulled the cap off and the fluid is at the very top, don't want to tilt the system cause it'll spill, is this normal?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I run a UD5H, did you set the header to manual control?


it's set to 'pwm' I dont think the manual control changed anything when I tried it but I didn't play with that setting underneath much


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> never opened the loop before, I figured me flipping it all around installing it would maybe make some air bubbles
> 
> EDIT: pulled the cap off and the fluid is at the very top, don't want to tilt the system cause it'll spill, is this normal?


This is normal and if there is some air in the loop it will work it's way up to the reservoir. What you can try doing is put the fill cap back on and try tilting your case gently from side to side and back to front while the pump is running. After that take the fill cap back off and see if you can top it off. This should remove the air bubbles from your pump and quiet it down. You might need to do this a couple of times to remove a particularly stubborn bubble.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is normal and if there is some air in the loop it will work it's way up to the reservoir. What you can try doing is put the fill cap back on and try tilting your case gently from side to side and back to front while the pump is running. After that take the fill cap back off and see if you can top it off. This should remove the air bubbles from your pump and quiet it down. You might need to do this a couple of times to remove a particularly stubborn bubble.


tryed that, didn't tilt it extremely but there was no change in fluid level, maybe a little higher


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> it's set to 'pwm' I dont think the manual control changed anything when I tried it but I didn't play with that setting underneath much


If you don't set it to manual control, all you're doing is forcing PWM control using the default motherboard settings. There's no need to adjust the slope if you're going to use Speedfan. Also verify that you changed the Alert temperature for the sensors you plan to use, it defaults to an absurdly low temperature, if you don't it will operate at 100% once that temperature is reached.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> If you don't set it to manual control, all you're doing is forcing PWM control using the default motherboard settings. There's no need to adjust the slope if you're going to use Speedfan. Also verify that you changed the Alert temperature for the sensors you plan to use, it defaults to an absurdly low temperature, if you don't it will operate at 100% once that temperature is reached.


set the fan speed to manual and the slope at .75

also changed all the warning temps to 95 and no change


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> set the fan speed to manual and the slope at .75
> 
> also changed all the warning temps to 95 and no change


Can you upload a screen shot of your Speedfan window? Also, keep in mind that the PWM number won't match the fan number, with my board PWM2 is controlling Fan3, and PWM3 is controlling Fan1. PWM3 being the CPU fan header.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Can you upload a screen shot of your Speedfan window? Also, keep in mind that the PWM number won't match the fan number, with my board PWM2 is controlling Fan3, and PWM3 is controlling Fan1. PWM3 being the CPU fan header.


main window or advanced settings?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> main window or advanced settings?


Main window, get rid of all the fans not reporting an rpm.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Main window, get rid of all the fans not reporting an rpm.


----------



## Skullwipe

The fans should be reporting RPM, do you have anything under the fans menu reporting?


----------



## GioV

Maybe you guys can diagnose a problem for me, I just finish installing extra radiators on my H220, it looks great but my temps leave much to be desired. Max temps are around 60C and idle temps hover between 35-40C, maybe 1-2C difference with fans and pump at full speed.

I have bled the system as much as I can, fluid is always topped off every time I open the rad. For reference, I am using a mix of Swiftech HydrX PM Coolant and some distilled water.

All my hardware is at stock, nothing is overclocked. I am using a Swiftech Komodo 7900 water block, a Koolance 120mm rad and a Alphacool 280mm rad. Currently the 280mm rad is set to push air inside the case and the other 2 rads and the back fan are pushing air out. Any tips on how I can improve my system would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time making a custom loop



*edit* Prior to expanding my H220 I would get CPU idle temps from 24-30C


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The fans should be reporting RPM, do you have anything under the fans menu reporting?


nope, I can control them but no readings. they're on a header by them selves


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Maybe you guys can diagnose a problem for me, I just finish installing extra radiators on my H220, it looks great but my temps leave much to be desired. Max temps are around 60C and idle temps hover between 35-40C, maybe 1-2C difference with fans and pump at full speed.
> 
> I have bled the system as much as I can, fluid is always topped off every time I open the rad. For reference, I am using a mix of Swiftech HydrX PM Coolant and some distilled water.
> 
> All my hardware is at stock, nothing is overclocked. I am using a Swiftech Komodo 7900 water block, a Koolance 120mm rad and a Alphacool 280mm rad. Currently the 280mm rad is set to push air inside the case and the other 2 rads and the back fan are pushing air out. Any tips on how I can improve my system would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time making a custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* Prior to expanding my H220 I would get CPU idle temps from 24-30C


Need more info on which rads are used and what fans?
Ambient temps?
Bottom I would go intake. Also adding more rads do not always mean lower temps.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> nope, I can control them but no readings. they're on a header by them selves


So if you turn off automatic control you can't adjust the pump? Have you tried swapping headers to the one that allows you to control the fans?


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Need more info on which rads are used and what fans?
> Ambient temps?
> Bottom I would go intake. Also adding more rads do not always mean lower temps.


- Bottom rad- using a Silenix Effizio fan. Not the best for a rad but its more for the look.

http://koolance.com/radiator-1-fan-120mm-30-fpi-copper

-Side rad- Using 2 140mm fans that came with the Arc Midi R2.

http://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-240mm-Radiator/dp/B007P05XUU

-Top rad - Just the Swiftech rad with the stock fans pulling air out.

Tubing is H220 standard tubing 3/8 by 5/8.

Ambient is 23C.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So if you turn off automatic control you can't adjust the pump? Have you tried swapping headers to the one that allows you to control the fans?


put the swiftech hub on the other header?


----------



## Skullwipe

Yeah, see if that will allow you to adjust the speed. On my board Sysfan_1 and the CPU fan are PWM controlled, can you tell me what control chip Speedfan is seeing? On mine it's the IT8728F.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Maybe you guys can diagnose a problem for me, I just finish installing extra radiators on my H220, it looks great but my temps leave much to be desired. Max temps are around 60C and idle temps hover between 35-40C, maybe 1-2C difference with fans and pump at full speed.
> 
> I have bled the system as much as I can, fluid is always topped off every time I open the rad. For reference, I am using a mix of Swiftech HydrX PM Coolant and some distilled water.
> 
> All my hardware is at stock, nothing is overclocked. I am using a Swiftech Komodo 7900 water block, a Koolance 120mm rad and a Alphacool 280mm rad. Currently the 280mm rad is set to push air inside the case and the other 2 rads and the back fan are pushing air out. Any tips on how I can improve my system would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time making a custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* Prior to expanding my H220 I would get CPU idle temps from 24-30C


First, setup ALL of the rad fans as intakes, and use the case fan in the rear of the case as the only exhaust.

Also, what is the ambient air temperature of the air around the case? (Get yourself a thermometer)


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> - Bottom rad- using a Silenix Effizio fan. Not the best for a rad but its more for the look.
> 
> http://koolance.com/radiator-1-fan-120mm-30-fpi-copper
> 
> -Side rad- Using 2 140mm fans that came with the Arc Midi R2.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-240mm-Radiator/dp/B007P05XUU
> 
> -Top rad - Just the Swiftech rad with the stock fans pulling air out.
> 
> Tubing is H220 standard tubing 3/8 by 5/8.
> 
> Ambient is 23C.


30fpi you need a good high speed fan for the Koolance rad. the ut60 dont really need high speed fans and it scales well at all speeds. so i say i think you just need better fans with good static pressure. the fans you are using are case fans not good for rads.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Yeah, see if that will allow you to adjust the speed. On my board Sysfan_1 and the CPU fan are PWM controlled, can you tell me what control chip Speedfan is seeing? On mine it's the IT8728F.


same chip, tried a different header and no change.
going from 100% to 0% only drops it 25 rpm

I bet it'd work without the hub, but I'm not sure if it'll actually use PWM to control it


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> same chip, tried a different header and no change.
> going from 100% to 0% only drops it 25 rpm
> 
> I bet it'd work without the hub, but I'm not sure if it'll actually use PWM to control it


The hub isn't going to force it to use PWM. I have my pump plugged directly into Sysfan_2 and the Hub and fans plugged into the CPU fan header.

Here's the fan header page of my manual. the ones that have pin 4 labeled speed control support PWM. Looked at the UD3H manual and it has the exact same configuration, the header near the RAM slots and the CPU header are the ones I can verify work for me. I know if you followed the guide you've already done it, but in the Advanced tab of Speedfan, make sure you set the PWM modes on the IT8728F to Software Controlled.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Need more info on which rads are used and what fans?
> Ambient temps?
> Bottom I would go intake. Also adding more rads do not always mean lower temps.
> 
> 
> 
> - Bottom rad- using a Silenix Effizio fan. Not the best for a rad but its more for the look.
> 
> http://koolance.com/radiator-1-fan-120mm-30-fpi-copper
> 
> -Side rad- Using 2 140mm fans that came with the Arc Midi R2.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-240mm-Radiator/dp/B007P05XUU
> 
> -Top rad - Just the Swiftech rad with the stock fans pulling air out.
> 
> Tubing is H220 standard tubing 3/8 by 5/8.
> 
> Ambient is 23C.
Click to expand...

You need for the koolance is push/pull with high static pressure. Single fan lacks the ability to properly cool. Suggest to remove it from the loop. The fan you have wont do nothing to cool the rad.
The stock fans from Arc R2, is not good for cooling rads. Lacks any airflow to flow through. To use low speeds fans, P/P is better and you have room to do that.


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You need for the koolance is push/pull with high static pressure. Single fan lacks the ability to properly cool. Suggest to remove it from the loop. The fan you have wont do nothing to cool the rad.
> The stock fans from Arc R2, is not good for cooling rads. Lacks any airflow to flow through. To use low speeds fans, P/P is better and you have room to do that.


Thanks for the great info, revising my fans now.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Maybe you guys can diagnose a problem for me, I just finish installing extra radiators on my H220, it looks great but my temps leave much to be desired. Max temps are around 60C and idle temps hover between 35-40C, maybe 1-2C difference with fans and pump at full speed.
> 
> I have bled the system as much as I can, fluid is always topped off every time I open the rad. For reference, I am using a mix of Swiftech HydrX PM Coolant and some distilled water.
> 
> All my hardware is at stock, nothing is overclocked. I am using a Swiftech Komodo 7900 water block, a Koolance 120mm rad and a Alphacool 280mm rad. Currently the 280mm rad is set to push air inside the case and the other 2 rads and the back fan are pushing air out. Any tips on how I can improve my system would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time making a custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* Prior to expanding my H220 I would get CPU idle temps from 24-30C


Getting very similar temps with my 680 Lightning on LN2 bios. It is maxing my GPU around 58-60 after playing Metro LL for about an hour. Idle temps are around 35-38C, and full load around 58C



Should note that I have put the 120 in push pull with NF-12 netting me 3-5C which surprised me.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> same chip, tried a different header and no change.
> going from 100% to 0% only drops it 25 rpm
> 
> I bet it'd work without the hub, but I'm not sure if it'll actually use PWM to control it


Been following this exchange between you and skullwipe. Maybe its simple misunderstanding.. let me recap my understanding:

post 2885, referring to the UDH3 bios setting: you say that your cpu_fan header is set to pwm. ok, but that's the operating mode (as opposed to voltage control).
There should also be a setting for allowing manual speed control - do you have it setup to manual mode in the bios ?

post 2889 referring to speedfan: you say you set it to manual, good.. but in 2890 you upload a screen shot, and the auto fan control is checked.

I just want to make sure that you have both the bios and speedfan in manual (uncheck the auto fan control in speedfan)

I would't try any other header than cpu_fan for now. let's first see if that works, then you can experiment with other headers.

The PWM splitter is a mere extension cord so to speak. If you can fully control your pump by pwm when it is connected to cpu_fan, then there is no reason for it not to work with the splitter, unless said splitter is defective. In which case, we just need to give you another one


----------



## Rube

What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.

Thanks


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rube*
> 
> What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.
> 
> Thanks


Depends on how much OC you apply. At CES Swiftech had a 3770K @4.5 GHz and 2 680s in the loop with just the 240 rad, and the CPU was at 81*C under whichever test they were running (I can't remember which). For general gaming 1 CPU moderately overclocked and one GPU should be fine as long as you have a decent ambient temp.


----------



## Mattb2e

Here is my rig:



Just bought 2 more Helix fans today for push/pull. I know its not necessary per say, however, these are much quieter than the 2 Yate Loons I had on there previously.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Maybe you guys can diagnose a problem for me, I just finish installing extra radiators on my H220, it looks great but my temps leave much to be desired. Max temps are around 60C and idle temps hover between 35-40C, maybe 1-2C difference with fans and pump at full speed.
> 
> *edit* Prior to expanding my H220 I would get CPU idle temps from 24-30C


Your edit is unclear.. what are you comparing to? Air or liquid cooling ?

You have two devices in your loop. Iddle temps will naturally be higher than if you are comparing to a cooling solution with only one device, It's normal, nothing to worry about. Load temps are what count.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Depends on how much OC you apply. At CES Swiftech had a 3770K @4.5 GHz and 2 680s in the loop with just the 240 rad, and the CPU was at 81*C under whichever test they were running (I can't remember which). For general gaming 1 CPU moderately overclocked and one GPU should be fine as long as you have a decent ambient temp.


We were running burnk6 for cpu load.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rube*
> 
> What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.
> 
> Thanks


This question in near impossible to answer accurately. There are variables, one shouldn't compare their temps to another. 2 people with the same chip can have different temps, purely based on the CPU. If you have a CPU that isn't making good contact with the IHS, you will run hotter. If you have one that needs more voltage, you will run hotter.


----------



## Rube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Depends on how much OC you apply. At CES Swiftech had a 3770K @4.5 GHz and 2 680s in the loop with just the 240 rad, and the CPU was at 81*C under whichever test they were running (I can't remember which). For general gaming 1 CPU moderately overclocked and one GPU should be fine as long as you have a decent ambient temp.


Well let's say I achieve 4.5 on CPU and I know my GPU does 1.3. Just looking for a safe presumption in temps.


----------



## BradleyW

Good news, my H220 comes late next week!


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Your edit is unclear.. what are you comparing to? Air or liquid cooling ?
> 
> You have two devices in your loop. Iddle temps will naturally be higher than if you are comparing to a cooling solution with only one device, It's normal, nothing to worry about. Load temps are what count.


The edit was my idle temps for an unmodified H220 cooling an i5 3570k with a 4.2ghz overclock. Loads for this was in the mid to high 50s C.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Thanks for the great info, revising my fans now.


Which fans are you getting and for which rad?
Are you keeping the Koolance in loop?
Gelid Silent 12 is PWM and works with the splitter.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rube*
> 
> What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.
> 
> Thanks


It depends on your overclocks, but that's probably too much power for the rad to handle on it's own. I have a 3570k and GTX670 w/ heatkiller full cover block in my loop. At stock, the H220 loop can handle these components with out issue. I've been able to run Prime 95 + MSI Kombuster for 30+ minutes and keep temps below 60C on my GPU and cpu cores. However, with a moderate overclock on my 3507k (4.4 GHz on 1.24v) and my GTX 670(121% power target, +122/350 clock/mem), I'm seeing temps over 85C on my hottest core after 15 minutes of that same combo, and that's running the fans at full speed.

EDIT: Ambient temps are probably around 25C currently.

It's just too much power for the rad to handle, I think. CoreTemp puts my cpu power consumption at about 70 watts, and with my with power % usually at about 110% running kombuster, that's nearly 200 watts from the gpu. The GTX 680 starts at 195 watts TDP on a stock reference card, and can go up from there with increased power targets and non-reference pcbs.

So, I think your set up maybe pushing too much power for the H220's radiator to dissipate on it's own. Prime95 or MSI Kombustor are pretty demanding stress test applications, significantly more demanding than most gaming scenarios I'd wager. I'm not sure where to go get a "real world" stress test environment - maybe planetside 2, as that can be taxing on both cpu and gpu. In any case, based on my limited actual hands on testing - I'd recommend an additional radiator to your loop if you can find the space for it. I know the guys at Swiftech are doing some testing in house for GPU expanded loops, so perhaps they can chime in and shed some light on the situation.

I'm going to continue with this set up for a little bit, and continue to gather a bit more data for those who are curious, but I plan on adding another dual 120mm rad + PWM helix fans for push pull on both rads in the near future.


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rube*
> 
> What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.
> 
> Thanks


I ran a setup like this for about a week but decided to just get new rads to help dissipate heat. With an overclocked 3570k and an overclocked 7970 I was getting OK load temps (High 60s). Again, as other people mentioned when it comes to water cooling there are too many factors that varies between people.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> The edit was my idle temps for an unmodified H220 cooling an i5 3570k with a 4.2ghz overclock. Loads for this was in the mid to high 50s C.


Including the Komodo shouldn't add more than about 5C at iddle.

Double check your CPU block mount.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesasone*
> 
> It depends on your overclocks, but that's probably too much power for the rad to handle on it's own. I have a 3570k and GTX670 w/ heatkiller full cover block in my loop. At stock, the H220 loop can handle these components with out issue. I've been able to run Prime 95 + MSI Kombuster for 30+ minutes and keep temps below 60C on my GPU and cpu cores. However, with a moderate overclock on my 3507k (4.4 GHz on 1.24v) and my GTX 670(121% power target, +122/350 clock/mem), I'm seeing temps over 85C on my hottest core after 15 minutes of that same combo, and that's running the fans at full speed.
> 
> EDIT: Ambient temps are probably around 25C currently.
> 
> It's just too much power for the rad to handle, I think. CoreTemp puts my cpu power consumption at about 70 watts, and with my with power % usually at about 110% running kombuster, that's nearly 200 watts from the gpu. The GTX 680 starts at 195 watts TDP on a stock reference card, and can go up from there with increased power targets and non-reference pcbs.
> 
> So, I think your set up maybe pushing too much power for the H220's radiator to dissipate on it's own. Prime95 or MSI Kombustor are pretty demanding stress test applications, significantly more demanding than most gaming scenarios I'd wager. I'm not sure where to go get a "real world" stress test environment - maybe planetside 2, as that can be taxing on both cpu and gpu. In any case, based on my limited actual hands on testing - I'd recommend an additional radiator to your loop if you can find the space for it. I know the guys at Swiftech are doing some testing in house for GPU expanded loops, so perhaps they can chime in and shed some light on the situation.
> 
> I'm going to continue with this set up for a little bit, and continue to gather a bit more data for those who are curious, but I plan on adding another dual 120mm rad + PWM helix fans for push pull on both rads in the near future.


I agree.. There are no standard applications nor games in real life that put the combined CPU load of Prime + GPU load of Kombustor on the loop. So even with a high overclock on a CPU + 1 GPU, running real life apps is just fine. Things start changing when you add chipset and/or a second VGA block. Only then(in our tests) did we have to tune down the CPU overclock a little, say from 4.6 to 4.5 in one of our particular setup. My personal philosophy is this: If it works at the overclock that I want, and at the noise level that I want, then high temps are acceptable as long as they remain on specs (stable system). Now, if you are into absolute max o/c for benchmark purposes (3D Marks scores, etc..), then of course you have to max out the cooling to get these few extra points and make your claim to fame ;-)


----------



## TeeBlack

im adding an extra rad when i expand mine just for headroom


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You need for the koolance is push/pull with high static pressure. Single fan lacks the ability to properly cool. Suggest to remove it from the loop. The fan you have wont do nothing to cool the rad.
> The stock fans from Arc R2, is not good for cooling rads. Lacks any airflow to flow through. To use low speeds fans, P/P is better and you have room to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great info, revising my fans now.
Click to expand...

In case you missed my reply before -- you never responded -- here it is again:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Setup ALL of your rad fans as intakes -- NOT as exhausts -- and then use the case fan in the upper-rear of your case as the system's only exhaust.
> 
> Also, what is the ambient air temperature of the air around the case? (Get yourself a thermometer)


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> post 2889 referring to speedfan: you say you set it to manual, good.. but in 2890 you upload a screen shot, and the auto fan control is checked.
> 
> I just want to make sure that you have both the bios and speedfan in manual (uncheck the auto fan control in speedfan)


My other concern is that he may not have switched the PWM headers to "Software Controlled" in the Advanced tab in Speefans configuration menu. Since you have the same fan I/O chip as I do, it should look exactly like the screen shot below, be sure you click the "remember it" box in the lower right.



Once this is set restart your machine, then you should be able to adjust the speeds manually in Speedfans main window. Until you can manually control the fans don't bother with Automatic fan speed.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Been following this exchange between you and skullwipe. Maybe its simple misunderstanding.. let me recap my understanding:
> 
> post 2885, referring to the UDH3 bios setting: you say that your cpu_fan header is set to pwm. ok, but that's the operating mode (as opposed to voltage control).
> There should also be a setting for allowing manual speed control - do you have it setup to manual mode in the bios ?
> 
> post 2889 referring to speedfan: you say you set it to manual, good.. but in 2890 you upload a screen shot, and the auto fan control is checked.
> 
> I just want to make sure that you have both the bios and speedfan in manual (uncheck the auto fan control in speedfan)
> 
> I would't try any other header than cpu_fan for now. let's first see if that works, then you can experiment with other headers.
> 
> The PWM splitter is a mere extension cord so to speak. If you can fully control your pump by pwm when it is connected to cpu_fan, then there is no reason for it not to work with the splitter, unless said splitter is defective. In which case, we just need to give you another one


It is set to manual control in the bios, that checkbox doesn't make a difference


----------



## Mattb2e

What is the minimum suggested pump speed for the H220? I have it set to 15% in speedfan which yields about 1300rpm, is that too low?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> What is the minimum suggested pump speed for the H220? I have it set to 15% in speedfan which yields about 1300rpm, is that too low?


No, the minimum speed that the pump will run at is about 1200rpm. You can play around with the settings to determine what gets you the best performance.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, the minimum speed that the pump will run at is about 1200rpm. You can play around with the settings to determine what gets you the best performance.


oh ok, so is it safe to assume the minimum is coded into the hardware? thank you for your response


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> oh ok, so is it safe to assume the minimum is coded into the hardware? thank you for your response


yes, unless you're me and the minimum is 0 LOL


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> yes, unless you're me and the minimum is 0 LOL


Check your PM's.


----------



## dsmwookie

Just installed my second H220 into my buddies HAF 932 with a 3770K and 7970 all at stock clocks. She idles really low and while playing Bioshock @ 1440p with max settings she reached 41 on the GPU and I think the CPU somewhat lower. All in all this has worked out to be a great kit. I m sure we can go ahead and do some overclocking, but he is quite happy with how quiet it is and the temperature performance.


----------



## remedy

anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?

I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.

The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.


----------



## Davron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I took my kid down to Denver to Elitchs amusement park today and stopped by the microcenter and this is what I saw:


I just want to say that there were 6 prior to me first getting there and 5 when I left... and then I returned and left a week later there were 4. Hmmm... Coincidence or do I have two simultaneous BitFenix Prodigy builds going on... The world can only tell with time.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remedy*
> 
> anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?
> 
> I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.
> 
> The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.


Can take time, tapping the hoses, shaking/rocking etc. You could also run it with the fill port cap off.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remedy*
> 
> anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?
> 
> I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.
> 
> The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.


The best/easiest way to do this is with the whole loop outside the case. Then you can raise and lower different components and manipulate the loop to get all the air out.

If it is installed, then tilting the case every which way is pretty much your only choice. I found it much easier to take several inches of tubing and attach it to the fill port of the res with a fitting. Then you can slightly overfill the loop and you can watch as air bubbles come out, which tells you if you are making progress. This has been mentioned by Martin a few times here.

Trying to do it with the fill port closed is hard, and doing it will the fill port open but without any tubing can be tricky. It can take much, much longer than 10 minutes. I think any person who water cools will tell you that bleeding the loop of air takes time. Depending on the loop it can take a few days for all of it to go away.

Turn the pump on, tilt the case, turn the pump off, tilt the case, over and over. Here is a pic of my fill port with extra tubing which made it much easier. I have tried it with and without extra tubing in the fill port and there is no question which is a better way to do it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






When you are done you just tape or close off the top of the tubing to create a small vacuum so most of the extra coolant in the tubing doesn't spill when you unscrew the fitting. Putting paper towels around the base of the fitting and being careful, you can get it off without any spilling anywhere.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I agree.. There are no standard applications nor games in real life that put the combined CPU load of Prime + GPU load of Kombustor on the loop. So even with a high overclock on a CPU + 1 GPU, running real life apps is just fine. Things start changing when you add chipset and/or a second VGA block. Only then(in our tests) did we have to tune down the CPU overclock a little, say from 4.6 to 4.5 in one of our particular setup. My personal philosophy is this: If it works at the overclock that I want, and at the noise level that I want, then high temps are acceptable as long as they remain on specs (stable system). Now, if you are into absolute max o/c for benchmark purposes (3D Marks scores, etc..), then of course you have to max out the cooling to get these few extra points and make your claim to fame ;-)


Hi Gabe,

Are you planning any testing to help these guys out with all these expansion questions?

I completely agree with the real life load scenario being different, but their is a huge hole in "expansion guidance" right now. No or very little good data to suggest or support if and when the expanded heat load begins to need expanded radiator capacity or what the temperature benefits would be expanding the radiator with more. Everyone has to guess based on a scramble of uncontrolled user based data scattered throughout which leads to confusion and guesswork.

It would be a huge posotive supporting contribution for the users planning expansion if there was a table of various configurations showing CPU & GPU temps.

As you suggested it would be nice to consider real world heat loads and to help users understand what those are.. Maybe a looping high heat game demo or something proven to be a healthy common real world test could be used to keep heat levels more in line with actual real world heat loads. Perhaps 3-4 load scenarios just to show that, one synthetic CPU stress, one synthetic GPU stress, and one real world gaming benchmark, and one HD video rendering to show the range of real world loads?

Thanks for considering it.

I would have attempted to test this myself, but lack the resources to do this.

If I buy a 680 or 690 or some other high end card, what temperatures can I expect added to my [email protected] 4.5.?

What if i added two 680s in SLI, what temps in real world use would I see? What if i added a single mcr120 to that mix?

Those are the many examples of questions I have myself and unable to answer and many users out there have similar "what if I expand with X or Y or Z or X+Z" type questions.

I'm thinking a simple "expansion configuration" cpu & gpu table would work just fine. Leave the CPU and GPU blocks permanently mounted to eliminate mounting variables and simply run some chosen gaming demo loop (or perhaps more than one load scenario) with a variety of hardware and radiator expansion configurations and log the data corrected to a constant ambient. Should be easy testing really..a day or two of testing maybe. You could even show off how great the new quick disconnects work..









Thanks for considering it. I asked Bryan too but haven't heard any further discussion. Wanted to do it myself too but can't.

I just hate seeing everyone stuggle with the expansion planning. They need some sort of table/tool to help them plan their expansion needs a little. Figured you guys might consider it if suggested?

Thanks!
Martin


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> In case you missed my reply before -- you never responded -- here it is again:


Haha I did take it into consideration, I already switched the helix fans around and the bottom rad all for intake. I'm buying new fans, Alasa Viper S flow to pull on the 240mm rad and a crazy finger slicing 4000 rpm for my 30fpi rad. I'm looking for a thermostat at the moment but I will try this setup first.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which fans are you getting and for which rad?
> Are you keeping the Koolance in loop?
> Gelid Silent 12 is PWM and works with the splitter.


Yes, I am keeping all my rad, I can't return it so i'll make the best out of it. For the thick 280mm rad I am getting 2 140mm Akasa S Flow to ass for p/p with the arc midi fans.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32169

For the koolance rad I decided to go all out and get a koolance performamce fan to put as an intake, i'm not too concerned about the noise it'll make if the end performance is good.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=30175

Thank you and palehorse for the great advice!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Yes, I am keeping all my rad, I can't return it so i'll make the best out of it. For the thick 280mm rad I am getting 2 140mm Akasa S Flow to ass for p/p with the arc midi fans.


For a P/P configuration you want to match the fans on each side. In other words you'd want the Akasa fans working together, placing one in push and the other in pull. If you are going to use mismatched fan, place the fans with greater CFM in the push configuration in order to avoid added noise and potential risks.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1252076/what-problems-can-be-expected-or-not-when-using-highly-mismatched-fans-with-a-water-cooling-radiator


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which fans are you getting and for which rad?
> Are you keeping the Koolance in loop?
> Gelid Silent 12 is PWM and works with the splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am keeping all my rad, I can't return it so i'll make the best out of it. For the thick 280mm rad I am getting 2 140mm Akasa S Flow to ass for p/p with the arc midi fans.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32169
> 
> For the koolance rad I decided to go all out and get a koolance performamce fan to put as an intake, i'm not too concerned about the noise it'll make if the end performance is good.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=30175
> 
> Thank you and palehorse for the great advice!
Click to expand...

Make sure that Push/Pull fans are the same. The Akasa Viper is good choice.
That koolance one is freaking loud and be sure to use a grill for it. Also it is a 2A fan, and mobo headers are 1A max. you need to go directly from PSU
My choice would to remove the Koolance rad from the loop. In my experience it wasnt a good rad from the start.


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Make sure that Push/Pull fans are the same. The Akasa Viper is good choice.
> That koolance one is freaking loud and be sure to use a grill for it. Also it is a 2A fan, and mobo headers are 1A max. you need to go directly from PSU
> My choice would to remove the Koolance rad from the loop. In my experience it wasnt a good rad from the start.


Taking what you and what Skullwipe's said into consideration, I will remove the Koolance rad and use the extra budget on more Akasa fans for a better p/p config. Back to the drawing board on how I want my tubes to look!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Make sure that Push/Pull fans are the same. The Akasa Viper is good choice.
> That koolance one is freaking loud and be sure to use a grill for it. Also it is a 2A fan, and mobo headers are 1A max. you need to go directly from PSU
> My choice would to remove the Koolance rad from the loop. In my experience it wasnt a good rad from the start.
> 
> 
> 
> Taking what you and what Skullwipe's said into consideration, I will remove the Koolance rad and use the extra budget on more Akasa fans for a better p/p config. Back to the drawing board on how I want my tubes to look!
Click to expand...

I dont think you want to run that Koolance fan at max speed from the molex. With all fans being PWM, you can just run off the splitter from Swiftech.
What I'm doing is Pump on CPU fan header and 8 fans on the splitter connected to 2nd CPU header. That way control would be better.
Just have to wait for 280 rad + gpu block. Which wont be till June/July.








Was never a fan of dense rads, 30fpi is too much. The H110i is about 17fpi and H220 is 12fpi. Lower fpi has more room to use different fans. Low speed to be quiet.


----------



## Watagump

I am in the process of trying to convince someone on another forum to get the H220 over the Kraken X60. He is convinced the X60 performs better. I came from the Corsair H110, which is almost the same unit as the X60. The H220 is the better unit, but nothing I say to this guy seems to matter.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am in the process of trying to convince someone on another forum to get the H220 over the Kraken X60. He is convinced the X60 performs better. I came from the Corsair H110, which is almost the same unit as the X60. The H220 is the better unit, but nothing I say to this guy seems to matter.


Surface area is only king when all other factors are equal, and they most certainly aren't equal. The H220 is all copper, the NZXT and Corsair units use aluminum fins, as for restriction and the higher GPM...I don't know enough to properly explain the advantages.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Surface area is only king when all other factors are equal, and they most certainly aren't equal. The H220 is all copper, the NZXT and Corsair units use aluminum fins, as for restriction and the higher GPM...I don't know enough to properly explain the advantages.


I have tried to explain everything to him from better rad, pump, etc. Even telling him I have owned both, he just isn't having it. He has even watched youtube videos that prove the H220 is better, but since the X60 isn't on the list he doesn't get it. The H110 is on the list and its pretty much the same as the X60.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am in the process of trying to convince someone on another forum to get the H220 over the Kraken X60. He is convinced the X60 performs better. I came from the Corsair H110, which is almost the same unit as the X60. The H220 is the better unit, but nothing I say to this guy seems to matter.


H110 is exactly the as X60. Only difference lights and 20mm vs 15mm spacing mounting.
There is no difference in pump or rad.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

i think i have a defective unit. I have re mounded with arctic silver TIM a few times and temps are the same. I'm running 3570k at 4.5GHz 1.255V and im idling at ~38-40 with load high 60s. is this normal? it performs the same as my damn CM 212 evo i had on before this, not to mention louder also.


----------



## TheGovernment

I swapped the tubing on my h220 for some promochill primoflex uv green. Fit perfectly, though I've been reading that it didn't.
I do have to say when I emptied the unit, there was a bunch of black debris. I had one of the newegg units that were drained and filled again. I'm glad I needed to make the hoses shorter as I bet it would have led to a problem down the road. Draining and filling were easy as pie. I filled it up, attached the block and had the rad in my hands and rocked it back and forth, flicking the hoses and tapping the unit. there were a ton of air bubbles in there but it only took 2-3 minutes to get it all out. I left the fill cap open while i ran it to let any other air bubbles and 15 minutes later, sealed it back up and even at full rpm, not a gurgle to be heard. I'vce been running prime 95 for the last 2 hours, looks like the max temp so far is 69c on my 3930K @ 4.45 ghz, 1.34V.

Here is a pic : I choose green because It's what I had paying around. it doesn't really go with anything but I don't care, it fits and I'll be updating it all in a few months anyways.


----------



## bond32

I am wanting to order a single 120mm rad to expand my h220. What would you guys recommend? Looking to go the cheapest route here, will need coolant, tubing, and the fittings (likely barb).


----------



## $ilent

Still no UK release yet?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have tried to explain everything to him from better rad, pump, etc. Even telling him I have owned both, he just isn't having it. He has even watched youtube videos that prove the H220 is better, but since the X60 isn't on the list he doesn't get it. The H110 is on the list and its pretty much the same as the X60.


some people arent worth persuading, he sounds like one. Persuade him with pictures of your soon to be custom h220 loop.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> i think i have a defective unit. I have re mounded with arctic silver TIM a few times and temps are the same. I'm running 3570k at 4.5GHz 1.255V and im idling at ~38-40 with load high 60s. is this normal? it performs the same as my damn CM 212 evo i had on before this, not to mention louder also.


AS5 is ok, does take 200hrs to cure. Use the TIM from Swiftech.
How have you set up and plugged in the H220.
As for temps, it varies on ambient and internal airflow with either Push or Pull setup.

Need more info on your system setup.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

stock h220 fans in pull config plugged into the splitter that came with the unit. the pump is also plugged into this thing with that then plugging into my cpu header. in a fractal define r4 mounted on top.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> stock h220 fans in pull config plugged into the splitter that came with the unit. the pump is also plugged into this thing with that then plugging into my cpu header. in a fractal define r4 mounted on top.


How is your bios set up?
What settings is done?
What is your ambient temps?
What is internal temps and airflow?
Please leave more details on setup?


----------



## Brennan Hodges

21 ambient, im a noob so i will assume you mean what kind of bios so MSI UEFI click bios 2. i have xmp on and vcore to 1.255 with 45 multi. thats all i have touched in bios. system temp is ~30 2 intake 1 exsaust out back with the 2 h220 fan exsaust. 660ti PE, msi gd-55 mobo, corsair 140mm af in back


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> i think i have a defective unit. I have re mounded with arctic silver TIM a few times and temps are the same. I'm running 3570k at 4.5GHz 1.255V and im idling at ~38-40 with load high 60s. is this normal? it performs the same as my damn CM 212 evo i had on before this, not to mention louder also.


I remounted the 212 in my girlfriends case using the Swiftech TIM, temps dropped 2c from what I was seeing with the AS5 that I had originally mounted it with...and it's had over a year of cure time with daily on/off cycles. Anecdotal, but IMO the Swiftech TIM Mate is better than the AS5.

At 4.4 GHz 1.210V my 3570k idle temps are between 38-40c with an ambient temp of almost 29c (third floor is a ***** to keep cool.) This is with the pump running at 1200 RPM (minimum) and the fans at 1130 RPM. My load temps on a P95 blend test are in the high 60's as well.


----------



## Mattb2e

It could just be the TIM between the die and IHS that is limiting your performance. Im not seeing any better temps than I was getting with an Antec Kuhler 620, however, I am able to run the pump and fans at 15% in speedfan which makes them barely audible and still cools my CPU at load without ramping.

The 620 was much louder than the H220 at low RPM's. You are better off using the TIM that came with the H220 also, it should perform better than AS5.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Still no UK release yet?


yeah we already had a uk release

but they have all sold out

saw it on tekheads.co.uk and specialtech and overclock.co.uk


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> 21 ambient, im a noob so i will assume you mean what kind of bios so MSI UEFI click bios 2. i have xmp on and vcore to 1.255 with 45 multi. thats all i have touched in bios. system temp is ~30 2 intake 1 exsaust out back with the 2 h220 fan exsaust. 660ti PE, msi gd-55 mobo, corsair 140mm af in back


In your bios you need to look at what speed the pump is running at and make sure the cpu fan header is set to PWM.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> some people arent worth persuading, he sounds like one. Persuade him with pictures of your soon to be custom h220 loop.


I was thinking of changing the tubes to white, painting the rad either white or blue, but that's about it. Most likely not even those are going to happen. If he really wants to spend about the same money on the X60 for an inferior unit, then so be it. I am one of these people that believes you don't really have to have the lowest temps. Safe temps well within the limits Intel or AMD has is more than fine.


----------



## dramabeats

How does this look? I saw it hit 88 once but it seems to be cooler now. Prime 95 small FFT


----------



## jincuteguy

Why is the H220 sold out every where? Is it really that good?


----------



## Brennan Hodges

pump is at ~3000 rpm


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why is the H220 sold out every where? Is it really that good?


Seems to be.







Try Microcenter if you have one near you.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why is the H220 sold out every where? Is it really that good?


yes it's best to set notifications for these sellers http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab6


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> How does this look? I saw it hit 88 once but it seems to be cooler now. Prime 95 small FFT


Seems about right, CPUZ voltage is about the same as mine under load. Of course room temps also play a factor.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

random question but i have my voltage set to 1.255 in bios but in cpu z it shows up as 1.240 and jumps to 1.248 but never more. what does this mean?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> random question but i have my voltage set to 1.255 in bios but in cpu z it shows up as 1.240 and jumps to 1.248 but never more. what does this mean?


Its normal, its called vdroop, voltage jumps around under loads, idle etc.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> yeah we already had a uk release
> 
> but they have all sold out
> 
> saw it on tekheads.co.uk and specialtech and overclock.co.uk


Ive seen it on specialtech but never actually said in stock. So your telling me this h220 has been out of stock in the UK for months and they cant restock it? Did they only make 100 h220s or something?

Infact on specialtech I dont think its ever been in stock, its always said preorder item.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ive seen it on specialtech but never actually said in stock. So your telling me this h220 has been out of stock in the UK for months and they cant restock it? Did they only make 100 h220s or something?
> 
> Infact on specialtech I dont think its ever been in stock, its always said preorder item.


Swiftech was moving their manufacturing to a bigger building, this cause a delay in the release and the amount being built.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ive seen it on specialtech but never actually said in stock. So your telling me this h220 has been out of stock in the UK for months and they cant restock it? Did they only make 100 h220s or something?


i saw it actually in stock on all 3 sites i listed--specialtech sold out really fast

overclock.co.uk sold out pretty fast

but the ones on tekheads lasted all week

i sat watching them for the week and still couldnt decide if it was a worthwhile upgrade from my h80

and because i hadnt seen any reviews from actual users i decided to hold off

didnt realise it would take so long for uk sellers to get more stock


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I was thinking of changing the tubes to white, painting the rad either white or blue, but that's about it. Most likely not even those are going to happen. If he really wants to spend about the same money on the X60 for an inferior unit, then so be it. I am one of these people that believes you don't really have to have the lowest temps. Safe temps well within the limits Intel or AMD has is more than fine.


As far are the bezel and reservoir are concerned I can't imagine it being an issue, but I'd think painting the fins would change their thermal properties...not to mention being extremely difficult to paint evenly.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> As far are the bezel and reservoir are concerned I can't imagine it being an issue, but I'd think painting the fins would change their thermal properties...not to mention being extremely difficult to paint evenly.


I wouldn't paint the fins, they don't even show anyhow, unless you look at the rad from below. Chances of me doing anything to it are very low.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I wouldn't paint the fins, they don't even show anyhow, unless you look at the rad from below. Chances of me doing anything to it are very low.


I'd wet sand it with some automotive sandpaper...1500 grit should be all the prep you need, just remember to use engine enamel or another paint designed to adhere to metal without primer.


----------



## Nilsom

Swiftech H220 can handle the two titans with good temps
I want to block the titans but I am very fear,
never done this before
I already have Swiftech H220

thanks to all


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Swiftech H220 can handle the two titans with good temps
> I want to block the titans but I am very fear,
> never done this before
> I already have Swiftech H220
> 
> thanks to all


If you 2x titan, then you will want to add another rad to the loop.


----------



## Phishy714

I have been hearing everywhere that the push/pull fans should be the exact same for the rads?

I take it this is because the fans will push/pull the same amount of air at the same speeds - however is it really that bad to mix/match them? I am not talking 4 different fans, but I have 2 x AP-15's in push with 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Would something like this honestly make a big difference compared to having 4 x AP-15's?

On my other rad, I have 2 X Cougar 120mm fans in push and 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Vid never goes above 48C and gpu never above 42C. What do you guys think?


----------



## bond32

Just ordered a single 120mm rad to add to my h220. Pretty excited, never really thought I would get this much into the watercooling.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Swiftech H220 can handle the two titans with good temps
> I want to block the titans but I am very fear,
> never done this before
> I already have Swiftech H220
> 
> thanks to all


Nilsom, by now there should be some good videos on YouTube that can show you step by step how to block your Titans. As Sp33d Junki3 mentioned though, you're going to need to add a second radiator to cool those cards. I would suggest getting an MCR220 QP or XP for them.


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just ordered a single 120mm rad to add to my h220. Pretty excited, never really thought I would get this much into the watercooling.


yes I will add another rad,
but will have good temps


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I have been hearing everywhere that the push/pull fans should be the exact same for the rads?
> 
> I take it this is because the fans will push/pull the same amount of air at the same speeds - however is it really that bad to mix/match them? I am not talking 4 different fans, but I have 2 x AP-15's in push with 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Would something like this honestly make a big difference compared to having 4 x AP-15's?
> 
> On my other rad, I have 2 X Cougar 120mm fans in push and 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Vid never goes above 48C and gpu never above 42C. What do you guys think?


What happens is the SP and airflow is different. The stronger fans in push will affect the speed at which the pull fans react and cause abnormal sound profiles.
The fans you have are all different in terms of SP, CFM and RPM. Some fans work better in push than pull others no difference.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I have been hearing everywhere that the push/pull fans should be the exact same for the rads?
> 
> I take it this is because the fans will push/pull the same amount of air at the same speeds - however is it really that bad to mix/match them? I am not talking 4 different fans, but I have 2 x AP-15's in push with 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Would something like this honestly make a big difference compared to having 4 x AP-15's?
> 
> On my other rad, I have 2 X Cougar 120mm fans in push and 2 x EnerMax Vegas fans in pull. Vid never goes above 48C and gpu never above 42C. What do you guys think?


It's not about the effects on temperature, it's about turbulence (noise) and MTBF. With thin, low FPI rads like the H220 there's minimal reduction of airspeed as it passes through the radiator, if the CFM rating of the pull fan is lower than that of the push fan it could be accelerated past it's normal RPM range. In the opposite situation the low CFM push fan may introduce more resistance causing the pull fan to work harder.

What it really comes down to is that it MAY reduce the life of the fans by an indeterminable amount, and certain combination will lead to more noise, or a frequency/pitch that bothers you. The noise (turbulence), frequency, or lord help you constructive interference due to the difference in RPM (think vibration) are the real reason I'd avoid it.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> How does this look? I saw it hit 88 once but it seems to be cooler now. Prime 95 small FFT


Looks like we have similar chips. I had a little better temps before I went the delid route with CLU on the IHS and die. After......running 4.5 @ 1.284 with it maxing around 58C (that is a full hour run on OCCT).


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just ordered a single 120mm rad to add to my h220. Pretty excited, never really thought I would get this much into the watercooling.


WC is like drugs, Once you start, you want some more over time


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Hi Gabe,
> 
> Are you planning any testing to help these guys out with all these expansion questions?
> 
> I completely agree with the real life load scenario being different, but their is a huge hole in "expansion guidance" right now. No or very little good data to suggest or support if and when the expanded heat load begins to need expanded radiator capacity or what the temperature benefits would be expanding the radiator with more. Everyone has to guess based on a scramble of uncontrolled user based data scattered throughout which leads to confusion and guesswork.
> 
> It would be a huge posotive supporting contribution for the users planning expansion if there was a table of various configurations showing CPU & GPU temps.
> 
> As you suggested it would be nice to consider real world heat loads and to help users understand what those are.. Maybe a looping high heat game demo or something proven to be a healthy common real world test could be used to keep heat levels more in line with actual real world heat loads. Perhaps 3-4 load scenarios just to show that, one synthetic CPU stress, one synthetic GPU stress, and one real world gaming benchmark, and one HD video rendering to show the range of real world loads?
> 
> Thanks for considering it.
> 
> I would have attempted to test this myself, but lack the resources to do this.
> 
> If I buy a 680 or 690 or some other high end card, what temperatures can I expect added to my [email protected] 4.5.?
> 
> What if i added two 680s in SLI, what temps in real world use would I see? What if i added a single mcr120 to that mix?
> 
> Those are the many examples of questions I have myself and unable to answer and many users out there have similar "what if I expand with X or Y or Z or X+Z" type questions.
> 
> I'm thinking a simple "expansion configuration" cpu & gpu table would work just fine. Leave the CPU and GPU blocks permanently mounted to eliminate mounting variables and simply run some chosen gaming demo loop (or perhaps more than one load scenario) with a variety of hardware and radiator expansion configurations and log the data corrected to a constant ambient. Should be easy testing really..a day or two of testing maybe. You could even show off how great the new quick disconnects work..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for considering it. I asked Bryan too but haven't heard any further discussion. Wanted to do it myself too but can't.
> 
> I just hate seeing everyone stuggle with the expansion planning. They need some sort of table/tool to help them plan their expansion needs a little. Figured you guys might consider it if suggested?
> 
> Thanks!
> Martin


Martin, this sounds like a very good idea. I did take it up with Stephen and he said that when we have the time to do something like this we'll try to put it together. As of right now though I really don't see this happening anytime soon. I'll keep everyone here posted though if that changes.


----------



## Skullwipe

Bram, and chance of the new Lok-Seal QDC's being released in black?


----------



## El Media Vida

Someone have a temps test with a gpu? or not is recommendable add a gpu?
I want add a 670 (MSI OC).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Someone have a temps test with a gpu? or not is recommendable add a gpu?
> I want add a 670 (MSI OC).


They have a video of the H220 cooling 2 7970 and the CPU, from CES this year. Of course in the video they also added radiators, but the pump can handle that loop.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They have a video of the H220 cooling 2 7970 and the CPU, from CES this year. Of course in the video they also added radiators, but the pump can handle that loop.


Then, the pump has enough pressure for cooling a CPU + GPU with extra rad?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Then, the pump has enough pressure for cooling a CPU + GPU with extra rad?


They added more than just 1 rad. Its near the end where they show the expanded setup.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Then, the pump has enough pressure for cooling a CPU + GPU with extra rad?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesasone*
> 
> I have a 3570k and GTX670 w/ heatkiller full cover block in my loop. At stock, the H220 loop can handle these components with out issue. I've been able to run Prime 95 + MSI Kombuster for 30+ minutes and keep temps below 60C on my GPU and cpu cores. However, with a moderate overclock on my 3507k (4.4 GHz on 1.24v) and my GTX 670(121% power target, +122/350 clock/mem), I'm seeing temps over 85C on my hottest core after 15 minutes of that same combo, and that's running the fans at full speed.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Then, the pump has enough pressure for cooling a CPU + GPU with extra rad?


absolutely. I would run at least an additional 120mm rad if not larger when adding a GPU. My 670 and an additional 120mm radiator allows me to maintain the low CPU temps I was getting with the unit in stock form.


----------



## Brandonandon

BramSLI1,

Just wanted to say that Martin's suggestion on doing testing on expanding the loop is fantastic. I know you guys have plenty to keep you busy, but this would really help out those of us who are looking to buy your products. Also, any word on that rumored H240?


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> absolutely. I would run at least an additional 120mm rad if not larger when adding a GPU. My 670 and an additional 120mm radiator allows me to maintain the low CPU temps I was getting with the unit in stock form.


I saw your rig and it looks great, what temps have at gaming?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> I saw your rig and it looks great, what temps have at gaming?


Thanks, If I choose to run the h220 loop at maximum, both never break 50C during gaming.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> *I do have to say when I emptied the unit, there was a bunch of black debris. I had one of the newegg units that were drained and filled again*. I'm glad I needed to make the hoses shorter as I bet it would have led to a problem down the road.


OK, that's a bit disconcerting. I wasn't planning to expand my loop, but now I think I'm going to open and drain it anyway...


----------



## Davron

As a warning to those considering making a mini-ITX computer with this, the ASRock Z77E-ITX motherboard is completely incompatible. In the natural direction the swivel arms interfere with the PCIe port and if you turn it 90 degrees the small heatsink at the back of the motherboard for the VRMs interfere with the swivel arms. I guess its time to plead my case to microcenter to see if they will take it back and replace it with a different motherboard.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davron*
> 
> As a warning to those considering making a mini-ITX computer with this, the ASRock Z77E-ITX motherboard is completely incompatible. In the natural direction the swivel arms interfere with the PCIe port and if you turn it 90 degrees the small heatsink at the back of the motherboard for the VRMs interfere with the swivel arms. I guess its time to plead my case to microcenter to see if they will take it back and replace it with a different motherboard.


We actually have this on the compatibility tab on the H220 so that others won't make this mistake.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys this is my H220











Another thing, i dislike the stock rad, what do you think about EK-CoolStream XTX 360? can i fill the loop for the port in the top?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We actually have this on the compatibility tab on the H220 so that others won't make this mistake.


How funny, out of all the research I did on the unit, I NEVER even looked or thought about the compatibility tab.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys this is my H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing, i dislike the stock rad, what do you think about EK-CoolStream XTX 360? can i fill the loop for the port in the top?


those EK rads are not that great. i would suggest Alphacool UT60.


----------



## Nomad692000

EX rads are very nice also I have 2 of them, a multi port 360 and a 240


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> EX rads are very nice also I have 2 of them, a multi port 360 and a 240


xspc are in the process of making some white rads right now. i wish swiftech would also consider doing some white rads too.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> xspc are in the process of making some white rads right now. i wish swiftech would also consider doing so white rads too.


Seen a few pics of there white painted ones they look very good.. Was looking at them for a white/charcoal grey built that i've had running through my head for a while.


----------



## Watagump

White rads are very sexy.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18298/ex-rad-477/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_120mm_Radiator_-_Custom_Painted_White.html?tl=g30c95s160


----------



## ez12a

alphacool has some nice features. Be aware that the threaded holes in alphacool are not typical, as in different than the threads found on the h220 rad and h50 rad. Alphacool has a much finer thread (that's the other standard computer spec i dont know off the top of my head). I especially like the idea of the anti puncture plate.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> alphacool has some nice features. Be aware that the threaded holes in alphacool are not typical, as in different than the threads found on the h220 rad and h50 rad. Alphacool has a much finer thread (that's the other standard computer spec i dont know off the top of my head). I especially like the idea of the anti puncture plate.


What do you think of the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Radiator? Going to require higher fan speeds with 20 FPI, but it looks pretty slick. The more I look, the more confused I get with radiator pricing.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

can i just add a rad to the h220 unit? do i need a res or anything else?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> can i just add a rad to the h220 unit? do i need a res or anything else?


The stock rad has the res built in, so just adding another is fine.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> What do you think of the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Radiator? Going to require higher fan speeds with 20 FPI, but it looks pretty slick. The more I look, the more confused I get with radiator pricing.


i wish i could tell you but i dont have any experience with any other watercooling stuff beyond swiftech and my alphacool rad








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> can i just add a rad to the h220 unit? do i need a res or anything else?


you can add any rad you want as long as the h220 rad/res is still in the loop and ideally located above the pump.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

will i see any improvement if i replace AS5 tim to the TIM mate from swift tech? im running 3570k @ 4.5GHz on 1.255V and getting ~38 idle and high 60s load (prime 95 10 min)


----------



## Davron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> How funny, out of all the research I did on the unit, I NEVER even looked or thought about the compatibility tab.


Same here at least for motherboards. I bought the motherboard and cpu a week before Microcenter had the H220 in stock.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> will i see any improvement if i replace AS5 tim to the TIM mate from swift tech? im running 3570k @ 4.5GHz on 1.255V and getting ~38 idle and high 60s load (prime 95 10 min)


You will see better results if you delid than use CLU on die and IHS.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> will i see any improvement if i replace AS5 tim to the TIM mate from swift tech? im running 3570k @ 4.5GHz on 1.255V and getting ~38 idle and high 60s load (prime 95 10 min)


Maybe, and I do mean maybe, most good tims are within 1-2 degrees of each other.


----------



## Watagump

I had to bring this here, xbit saying the X60 is better. What I find hard to believe, is the X40 hanging with the H220 using 2 fans.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html


----------



## Davron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We actually have this on the compatibility tab on the H220 so that others won't make this mistake.


I just took a look. The PCIe slot yes. But using the low profile ram from crucial, the ram wasn't the limiting factor it was the strangely shaped heatsink in the back that was the ultimate impediment. If microcenter doesn't let me exchange the motherboard for the Asus, I'll come up with something that cools those VRMs but likely voids the motherboard warranty. It does delay my mobile Oculus Rift development/demo platform. I didn't realize that MC had changed their motherboard exchange policy down to 15 days, which means I'm a few days outside (stupid flu taking me down for nearly 10 days).

How long has the motherboard been on the compatibility page?

Edit:
Microcenter rocks! Let me exchange for the Asus without even calling in a manager. OR dev/demo station back on track.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> those EK rads are not that great. i would suggest Alphacool UT60.


Yes i know, but i like that because it has port and do not want to buy a res. And the only rads with res than i nkow are the swiftech (i dont like) and this EKs


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I had to bring this here, xbit saying the X60 is better. What I find hard to believe, is the X40 hanging with the H220 using 2 fans.
> 
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html


Junk review IMO. They don't list ambient temps, TIM used (since they did mount the cooler on two different CPUs mind you) ,or mounting methods, all of which could account for most if not all temperature differences.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Junk review IMO. They don't list ambient temps, TIM used (since they did mount the cooler on two different CPUs mind you) ,or mounting methods, all of which could account for most if not all temperature differences.


I'm with you, not buying that review either.


----------



## Maiky

Anyone know of a website that sells the H220 for under $149.99?


----------



## Brennan Hodges

just replaced the TIM under my h220 to swiftechs stuff. Works better than AS5. im getting mid 30s idle and low 60s load compared to high 30s idle and high 60s load


----------



## jderbs

I see a lot of you guys top mount the H220 as intake... mine right now is setup as exhaust in push/pull. If I switched it to intake I'm afraid my case won't have enough exhaust (only 1- 140mm fan on the rear) with 6 intake fans at that point. Any thoughts?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maiky*
> 
> Anyone know of a website that sells the H220 for under $149.99?


Mine came from Microcenter. Frozen CPU was under the $149..99 when they had them. Sidewinder says in stock.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> just replaced the TIM under my h220 to swiftechs stuff. Works better than AS5. im getting mid 30s idle and low 60s load compared to high 30s idle and high 60s load


No way there was a difference that great between AS5 and Tim mate. Flame on.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Martin, this sounds like a very good idea. I did take it up with Stephen and he said that when we have the time to do something like this we'll try to put it together. As of right now though I really don't see this happening anytime soon. I'll keep everyone here posted though if that changes.


Can you at least provide some guestimated rules of thumb for people then or should we just assume if you expand to a CPU + GPU that you need an extra radiator?

Perhaps a ballpark wattage number like 100W per 120mm radiator section or something like that?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I see a lot of you guys top mount the H220 as intake... mine right now is setup as exhaust in push/pull. If I switched it to intake I'm afraid my case won't have enough exhaust (only 1- 140mm fan on the rear) with 6 intake fans at that point. Any thoughts?


I have tried mine with both intake and exhaust. I saw zero difference. Right now my case runs 1 200mm intake on the front, one 140mm exhaust on the back, then I have the 2 Noctuas in a pull setup, so I guess you call those exhaust also.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Can you at least provide some guestimated rules of thumb for people then or should we just assume if you expand to a CPU + GPU that you need an extra radiator?
> 
> Perhaps a ballpark wattage number like 100W per 120mm radiator section or something like that?


I'll talk with Stephen and get back with you tomorrow. I'm at home right now and I've got some homework that I still need to finish.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I see a lot of you guys top mount the H220 as intake... mine right now is setup as exhaust in push/pull. If I switched it to intake I'm afraid my case won't have enough exhaust (only 1- 140mm fan on the rear) with 6 intake fans at that point. Any thoughts?


having not enough exhaust isnt too much of a concern. The excess pressure will find other ways out of your case.


----------



## RemagCP

Anyone know if someone has managed to make a really clean looking expanded H220 loop? All the ones I see are missing something...I don't know what. I really don't want to drop $400 bucks on a ''real'' custom loop when I could save $150 and just add a second rad to the H220 and have the same temp.

So basically, anyone have a really clean looking H220 loop with two radiators and a GPU block to help convince me?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Anyone know if someone has managed to make a really clean looking expanded H220 loop? *All the ones I see are missing something...I don't know what.* I really don't want to drop $400 bucks on a ''real'' custom loop when I could save $150 and just add a second rad to the H220 and have the same temp.
> 
> So basically, anyone have a really clean looking H220 loop with two radiators and a GPU block to help convince me?


you must be talking about a res full of colorful fluid.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> What do you think of the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Radiator? Going to require higher fan speeds with 20 FPI, but it looks pretty slick. The more I look, the more confused I get with radiator pricing.


its a good rad but like you said you gonna need some high speed fans with good static pressure.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Anyone know if someone has managed to make a really clean looking expanded H220 loop? All the ones I see are missing something...I don't know what. I really don't want to drop $400 bucks on a ''real'' custom loop when I could save $150 and just add a second rad to the H220 and have the same temp.
> 
> So basically, anyone have a really clean looking H220 loop with two radiators and a GPU block to help convince me?


Not sure what exactly you mean by clean, but this is what I could do with the H220, with gpu block, and two extra rads.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maiky*
> 
> Anyone know of a website that sells the H220 for under $149.99?


Performance-pcs has them for $139.99


----------



## Maiky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Mine came from Microcenter. Frozen CPU was under the $149..99 when they had them. Sidewinder says in stock.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html


sweet thx ..


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll talk with Stephen and get back with you tomorrow. I'm at home right now and I've got some homework that I still need to finish.


Thanks, I hope you count some of your recreational support on the clock now and then.









This is what I gathered from testing on the 3930K and prime which is an extremely high heat load.

I was able to make the H220 fail running 0% PWM (800RPM fans), but when I bumped it up to 10% it just barely passed (~900RPM). Coretemp was registering about 180W worth of heat at that point.










But that's pretty extreme in running ultra low (0%) PWM settings where I feel normal use would be perfectly happy about running the 3930 where you allow speeds to ramp up. 1800 is pretty loud for my tastes, but 1300-1500 is ok for short periods.

Using that data I subjectively think 90W-100W per 120mm radiator section can give you pretty good results with medium speeds, but much more heat than that probably requires more radiator. I have been looking at upgrading my video card, and figured I probably need an extra radiator added to the H220 to make it work well. Of coarse there is also very little help in the area of determining wattage for regular use, but it's at least a start and coretemp is available for those that want a quick CPU wattage.

I see a lot of people here asking similar expansion questions and figured there has got to be some sort of rule of thumb guidance we can give them.









Maybe something like:

*CPU(any) only - Kit fine

CPU(oc hexacore) + high end GPU = Kit +120 rad

CPU(oc quad core) + med end GPU = Kit ok

CPU + GPU x2 = Kit + 2x120(220 or 240) rad* or should it be a 3x120??

........................?

Obviously there are some pretty large heat differences between chips out there, but something very ballpark like would be very helpful.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Anyone know if someone has managed to make a really clean looking expanded H220 loop? All the ones I see are missing something...I don't know what. I really don't want to drop $400 bucks on a ''real'' custom loop when I could save $150 and just add a second rad to the H220 and have the same temp.
> 
> So basically, anyone have a really clean looking H220 loop with two radiators and a GPU block to help convince me?


Not sure if this is clean but here you go...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Maiky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Not sure if this is clean but here you go...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yea that's clean, now all you need to do is hide those sata cables and it supa-clean


----------



## Fleat

It seems that flushing the loop prolonged the life of my pump for around 2 weeks. While playing a game of Starcraft 2 today with some friends, the pump bit the dust a second time and my CPU temp spiked to 88C. I went through a large list of troubleshooting (including three different motherboards), and landed on flushing the pump again as a last ditch effort. Flushing it several times revealed no excess debris, but I was able to get the pump going again. After around 15 minutes of OCCT the pump died a third time. I am not going to bother with the flush and waste even more of my time. If I was billing my hourly rate for all the time spent troubleshooting this, I could buy an assortment of different watercooling units.

I ended up pulling everything apart, and swapping back to my Silver Arrow. The temps are very close to the performance of the H220 with none of the pump noise. I guess I will RMA the H220, and decide what to do with its replacement.


----------



## Sazerac81

This is a link to my semi-build thread.







This thread definitely inspired me!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1392968/corsair-600t-and-h220-expansion-watercooling-loop#post_20009230

Added a 200mm Phobya rad to the loop and an EK GPU block to the GTX 670. Excellent cooling of the whole unit even with the stock fans. Will be adding some Noctua NF-F12s and then NF-P12 for exhaust for case.

It's not close to its final form, but in the middle of the process. I have been happy with my unit. The pump is solid and quiet. I'm sorry to hear of those that have had issues with the unit, although the CS that I have received from Swiftech has been outstanding!

Cheers,
John


----------



## Sazerac81

By the way Martin, you are the man!!! Awesome reviews, thorough and well thought-out. Your extremely thorough (and lengthy) review of the H220 was a huge reason why I decided to buy this kit to begin my water-cooling adventure.

Thanks for all the hard work and dedication to the hobby!

Cheers,
John


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> It seems that flushing the loop prolonged the life of my pump for around 2 weeks. While playing a game of Starcraft 2 today with some friends, the pump bit the dust a second time and my CPU temp spiked to 88C. I went through a large list of troubleshooting (including three different motherboards), and landed on flushing the pump again as a last ditch effort. Flushing it several times revealed no excess debris, but I was able to get the pump going again. After around 15 minutes of OCCT the pump died a third time. I am not going to bother with the flush and waste even more of my time. If I was billing my hourly rate for all the time spent troubleshooting this, I could buy an assortment of different watercooling units.
> 
> I ended up pulling everything apart, and swapping back to my Silver Arrow. The temps are very close to the performance of the H220 with none of the pump noise. I guess I will RMA the H220, and decide what to do with its replacement.


I'm really sorry to hear about this Fleat. Please send me a PM and I'll start working on your RMA request when I get in tomorrow.


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> having not enough exhaust isnt too much of a concern. The excess pressure will find other ways out of your case.


if this is the case I might just switch it around so the damn hot air stops blowing on my legs... lol


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> if this is the case I might just switch it around so the damn hot air stops blowing on my legs... lol


i have mine as exhaust and have no problems.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Maybe something like:
> 
> *CPU(any) only - Kit fine
> 
> CPU(oc hexacore) + high end GPU = Kit +120 rad
> 
> CPU(oc quad core) + med end GPU = Kit ok
> 
> CPU + GPU x2 = Kit + 2x120(220 or 240) rad* or should it be a 3x120??
> 
> ........................?
> 
> Obviously there are some pretty large heat differences between chips out there, but something very ballpark like would be very helpful.


GTX 480 = Kit + 120mm








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> having not enough exhaust isnt too much of a concern. The excess pressure will find other ways out of your case.


Ah, the old positive vs negative pressure debate. It's a bit old, but this video is how I like to respond to that question. I think with a radiator positive pressure is more beneficial than with an air cooler.






Edit: Science!

All energy systems naturally move toward a state of equilibrium, therefore, the heated air molecules will move toward the cooler air and disperse their energy until equilibrium is reached.

This is further aided by the air pressure imparted by the fans.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Hey guys,

Doing a build for someone, just wondering if a the H220 will fit in the CM Storm Trooper?
Also just questioning if it will cool a 3570k + 7970 with mild overclocks. I.E 4.4GHz and say 1100MHz ish on the 7970, depends how "good" it is though.

Also wondering what size tubing the H220 uses at stock AND if I pull out the "factory liquid" could I re-use it? I honestly don't see why not


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Doing a build for someone, just wondering if a the H220 will fit in the CM Storm Trooper?
> Also just questioning if it will cool a 3570k + 7970 with mild overclocks. I.E 4.4GHz and say 1100MHz ish on the 7970, depends how "good" it is though.
> 
> Also wondering what size tubing the H220 uses at stock AND if I pull out the "factory liquid" could I re-use it? I honestly don't see why not


Swiftechs compatibility page shows it top mounted, and if the hoses are long enough you should be able to do a bottom mount as well.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Swiftechs compatibility page shows it top mounted, and if the hoses are long enough you should be able to do a bottom mount as well.


Cheers,
It's just that the Storm Trooper only has the space for 1x 200mm fan in the top, it doesn't say that it can fit 2x 120mm's. I guess it can,

With the liquid, could I use car coolant? Seeing as it will never be seen.. Just get a 5L bottle of the stuff that goes for the longest amount of kilometers









EDIT: +Rep


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Anyone know if someone has managed to make a really clean looking expanded H220 loop? All the ones I see are missing something...I don't know what. I really don't want to drop $400 bucks on a ''real'' custom loop when I could save $150 and just add a second rad to the H220 and have the same temp.
> 
> So basically, anyone have a really clean looking H220 loop with two radiators and a GPU block to help convince me?


Hi RemagCP,
I made my loop into the Zalman Z11 Plus (mid case, not watercooling prepared) and it looked like this:


I know, with more time on it i would made it looking better but at the time I made it I was injury in my knee but I like it anyway


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> Hi RemagCP,
> I made my loop into the Zalman Z11 Plus (mid case, not watercooling prepared) and it looked like this:


What temps do you have?


----------



## Magnum26

@swiftech

Can someone please confirm when if at all the UK will get any stock of the H220 or am I going to be forced to get a Corsair 100i instead?

If the H220's are available in the US could Swiftech ship me one??


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Doing a build for someone, just wondering if a the H220 will fit in the CM Storm Trooper?
> Also just questioning if it will cool a 3570k + 7970 with mild overclocks. I.E 4.4GHz and say 1100MHz ish on the 7970, depends how "good" it is though.
> 
> Also wondering what size tubing the H220 uses at stock AND if I pull out the "factory liquid" could I re-use it? I honestly don't see why not


The H220 can handle that chip and card with mild ocs, but if you want really good temps you will need more rad space. The tubing is 3/8-5/8 and you can buy more of the same stock tubing from them or replace it all with something else that size. The Swiftech coolant can be reused right after you get it and are expanding it, but you will need more since you are adding another gpu block.

I wouldn't top off that much with distilled, I would order another bottle of the HydX PM coolant. You should probably strain the coolant from the H220 through a coffee filter to make sure there are not bits of anything in it, and flush the rad and pump with distilled before filling it back up. That way you make sure there is nothing floating around in there.

To add the gpu you will need two more 3/8-5/8 fittings as well. Definitely do not use any car coolant, you will need to confirm with Swiftech before using anything other than their coolant in the unit. Besides the stock coolant I believe you are safe with distilled and a good additive.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> @swiftech
> 
> Can someone please confirm when if at all the UK will get any stock of the H220 or am I going to be forced to get a Corsair 100i instead?
> 
> If the H220's are available in the US could Swiftech ship me one??


Ordered mine from Newegg. I believe performance pcs have it too.


----------



## neXen

If i was interested in cooling my 3570k/7950

Both OCed.

Would the following be appropriate?

Swiftech H220 x1
MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series x 1
Switech Universal GPU Block x 1
Fittings x 4
Tubing
Additional Coolant.

Would the h220 pump be able to handle moderate overclocks on both the CPU/GPU?

I ask because with this route, it seems much cheaper and more cost effective than a custom loop @ 250 USD.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> @swiftech
> 
> Can someone please confirm when if at all the UK will get any stock of the H220 or am I going to be forced to get a Corsair 100i instead?
> 
> If the H220's are available in the US could Swiftech ship me one??


You can get it here: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html and they do ship to uk. Shipping to your area is like 60 us dollars though i think.


----------



## bond32

Ok fellas, scratching my head on trying to figure out how to control my h220. Have the 2 helix fans connected to the splitter, pump to channel 1 on the splitter, and the splitter to cpu fan header on my board which is a gigabyte 990fxa-ud5. Have the bios setting for the cpu fan to PWM. In speedfan, changing the "PWM 1" % up or down doesn't change anything. What am I missing?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> If i was interested in cooling my 3570k/7950
> Both OCed.
> Would the following be appropriate?
> Swiftech H220 x1
> MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series x 1
> Switech Universal GPU Block x 1
> Fittings x 4
> Tubing
> Additional Coolant.
> Would the h220 pump be able to handle moderate overclocks on both the CPU/GPU?
> I ask because with this route, it seems much cheaper and more cost effective than a custom loop @ 250 USD.


That all looks fine, but you left out the size of your extra rad, 120, 220, 320?
The pump will have no trouble with two gpus and two extra rads, so it will handle yours easily. As far as temps go, that depends on the size of your extra rad and how much you oc both things.

I like full cover blocks so I can't comment on the universal one, I think you need some heatsinks for the mem though. Email Swiftech with your specific video card and they can confirm what else you need.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ok fellas, scratching my head on trying to figure out how to control my h220. Have the 2 helix fans connected to the splitter, pump to channel 1 on the splitter, and the splitter to cpu fan header on my board which is a gigabyte 990fxa-ud5. Have the bios setting for the cpu fan to PWM. In speedfan, changing the "PWM 1" % up or down doesn't change anything. What am I missing?


have you gone to the Advanced tab in Speedfan, selected your chipset, and switched the control for the headers to manual? I go over how to do this in a video:


----------



## Julsmba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> What temps do you have?


At load i have around mid 60's CPU and never above 45º GPU. OCCT, Prime95, Intel Burn Test, Furmark and Battlefield 3.
Ambients temps are around 23º.

i5 3570k @ 4.7ghz 1.25V and HD7950 @ 1250/1500 1250mV.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The H220 can handle that chip and card with mild ocs, but if you want really good temps you will need more rad space. The tubing is 3/8-5/8 and you can buy more of the same stock tubing from them or replace it all with something else that size. The Swiftech coolant can be reused right after you get it and are expanding it, but you will need more since you are adding another gpu block.
> 
> I wouldn't top off that much with distilled, I would order another bottle of the HydX PM coolant. You should probably strain the coolant from the H220 through a coffee filter to make sure there are not bits of anything in it, and flush the rad and pump with distilled before filling it back up. That way you make sure there is nothing floating around in there.
> 
> To add the gpu you will need two more 3/8-5/8 fittings as well. Definitely do not use any car coolant, you will need to confirm with Swiftech before using anything other than their coolant in the unit. Besides the stock coolant I believe you are safe with distilled and a good additive.


Cheers! Couldn't I run distilled water + an additive for 24/7?

We don't really want extreme overclocks, as it's not going to be for me. But for someone else, so a mild overclock with *moderate* temperatures is what I am aiming for, whilst being at a low cost.
If temps are bad I have a RX120 Radiator sitting here that I planned for my own build but I don't *need* it, so If temps are bad I'll use that.

Again, only aiming for say 4.4GHz (or maybe a tad less) on the 3570k, running 1100MHz on the GPU as that matters more for gaming.

I like the idea of the coffee filter, may have to put that to plan!








I will probably just get a new concentrate though, seeing as I'll need to add more anyway. (I can't get that stuff easily here). I'd prefer to run distilled, but I'll run some cheap computer coolant if distilled is a no-go. I'll obviously flush it out with distilled before putting the new coolant in seeing as the old coolant will be left in there, as for tubing I'm looking at getting a kit of either black or red primochill (I have red and it's great quality). Obviously in the correct size.

Not sure if anything else needs to be added, considering getting a watercooling RAM kit just to be cool, but I think it's overkill and the heatspreaders look nice too.

EDIT: +rep


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> have you gone to the Advanced tab in Speedfan, selected your chipset, and switched the control for the headers to manual? I go over how to do this in a video:


Played around with the settings, but the only options are "on/off", or "smartguardian" both of which don't change when I adjust the PWM percentage.

Edit: NVM was able to change the PWM percentage, however the pump speed doesn't seem to change.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> That all looks fine, but you left out the size of your extra rad, 120, 220, 320?
> The pump will have no trouble with two gpus and two extra rads, so it will handle yours easily. As far as temps go, that depends on the size of your extra rad and how much you oc both things.
> 
> I like full cover blocks so I can't comment on the universal one, I think you need some heatsinks for the mem though. Email Swiftech with your specific video card and they can confirm what else you need.


Awesome.

i was thinking of at least 120 rad

The 3570k is 4.6 @ 1.20v

the 7950 is at 1180/1585 @ 1.26v

i realize that full cover blocks would be optimal but i don't have a reference card.

http://www.swiftech.com/HD7900-HSF.aspx

i forgot that in my originial list, but i had intended to include it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Awesome.
> 
> i was thinking of at least 120 rad
> 
> The 3570k is 4.6 @ 1.20v
> 
> the 7950 is at 1180/1585 @ 1.26v
> 
> i realize that full cover blocks would be optimal but i don't have a reference card.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/HD7900-HSF.aspx
> 
> i forgot that in my originial list, but i had intended to include it


Those heat sinks are also made mainly for the reference PCBs. You'll need to get our MC800 SMC Cooling Kit to properly cool your ram chips and VRM/MOSFETs.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Cheers! Couldn't I run distilled water + an additive for 24/7?
> We don't really want extreme overclocks, as it's not going to be for me. But for someone else, so a mild overclock with *moderate* temperatures is what I am aiming for, whilst being at a low cost.
> If temps are bad I have a RX120 Radiator sitting here that I planned for my own build but I don't *need* it, so If temps are bad I'll use that.
> Again, only aiming for say 4.4GHz (or maybe a tad less) on the 3570k, running 1100MHz on the GPU as that matters more for gaming.
> I like the idea of the coffee filter, may have to put that to plan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably just get a new concentrate though, seeing as I'll need to add more anyway. (I can't get that stuff easily here). I'd prefer to run distilled, but I'll run some cheap computer coolant if distilled is a no-go. I'll obviously flush it out with distilled before putting the new coolant in seeing as the old coolant will be left in there, as for tubing I'm looking at getting a kit of either black or red primochill (I have red and it's great quality). Obviously in the correct size.
> Not sure if anything else needs to be added, considering getting a watercooling RAM kit just to be cool, but I think it's overkill and the heatspreaders look nice too.
> EDIT: +rep


Best choice is more of the stock HydrX PM 2 coolant, but if you can't do that then I recommend just distilled water with a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - one bottle treats one gallon of distilled.

Just an FYI, a few of us have had trouble with PrimoChill 3/8-5/8 tubing and Swiftech's Lok-Seal compression fittings, so you will want to avoid that particular combination. XSPC and Swiftech tubing works fine though with their compressions fittings. I think ram cooling is not worth the trouble, but that is just me.

The temps you will get depend on a lot of things, ambient, what vCore is needed for the chip, how hot/cool that chip is with Intel's poor glue placement, case air flow, etc. It will work with no extra rads but good temps require more rad space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Awesome.
> i was thinking of at least 120 rad
> The 3570k is 4.6 @ 1.20v
> the 7950 is at 1180/1585 @ 1.26v
> i realize that full cover blocks would be optimal but i don't have a reference card.
> http://www.swiftech.com/HD7900-HSF.aspx
> i forgot that in my originial list, but i had intended to include it


1.20v for 4.6? That is a nice chip. That low vCore will help with keeping everything cool also.

More rad is always better, just depends on what you can fit in your case. With that combo I think an extra 120 will give decent temps, nothing to worry about. I would just double check with Swiftech that the gpu stuff you are planning to get is compatible with your particular card.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Played around with the settings, but the only options are "on/off", or "smartguardian" both of which don't change when I adjust the PWM percentage.
> 
> Edit: NVM was able to change the PWM percentage, however the pump speed doesn't seem to change.


hmm, check to see if under the speeds tab you have "automatically variated" checked.


----------



## gdubc

4.6 @ 1.2? Daaaang...getting mine above 4.2 @ 1.2 is like pulling my own teeth! :'(


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Played around with the settings, but the only options are "on/off", or "smartguardian" both of which don't change when I adjust the PWM percentage.
> 
> Edit: NVM was able to change the PWM percentage, however the pump speed doesn't seem to change.


The pump has a much smaller RPM range, my pump increases 100 RPM between 0% and 10% in Speedfan, increasing it to 20% takes it from 1300 up to 1500 RPM.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> hmm, check to see if under the speeds tab you have "automatically variated" checked.


derp I realized that this won't work.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Doing a build for someone, just wondering if a the H220 will fit in the CM Storm Trooper?
> Also just questioning if it will cool a 3570k + 7970 with mild overclocks. I.E 4.4GHz and say 1100MHz ish on the 7970, depends how "good" it is though.
> 
> Also wondering what size tubing the H220 uses at stock AND if I pull out the "factory liquid" could I re-use it? I honestly don't see why not


it will fit im using it in mine. personally i would add an extra rad for some headroom. the h220 uses 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing. if you filter it i dont see why not.


----------



## jderbs

Haven't switched tried going from exhaust push/pull to intake, but I just reseated and applied IC7 TIM and here's the results.

Before:



After:



One issue though... my pump doesn't show the RPM in bios or with any other utilities. It's plugged into the CPU fan header on the mobo without the splitter. Any ideas?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Haven't switched tried going from exhaust push/pull to intake, but I just reseated and applied IC7 TIM and here's the results.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> One issue though... my pump doesn't show the RPM in bios or with any other utilities. It's plugged into the CPU fan header on the mobo without the splitter. Any ideas?


That's pretty strange because according to your temperatures and your overclock it's obviously working. What motherboard are you using and do you have an optional CPU fan header that it might be plugged into?


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's pretty strange because according to your temperatures and your overclock it's obviously working. What motherboard are you using and do you have an optional CPU fan header that it might be plugged into?


I've got the asrock extreme 6 and there's a cpu2 fan but its only 3 pin.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I've got the asrock extreme 6 and there's a cpu2 fan but its only 3 pin.


Can you check the PWM connector on the pump to be sure that all of the pins are seated properly in the connector? This is about the only thing I can think it would be. If the pin that is supposed to report the speed of the pump isn't seated properly then it's not going to give a signal.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Played around with the settings, but the only options are "on/off", or "smartguardian" both of which don't change when I adjust the PWM percentage.
> 
> Edit: NVM was able to change the PWM percentage, however the pump speed doesn't seem to change.


PM me a screenshot or post one of the Advanced tab with the controller chipset selected.


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you check the PWM connector on the pump to be sure that all of the pins are seated properly in the connector? This is about the only thing I can think it would be. If the pin that is supposed to report the speed of the pump isn't seated properly then it's not going to give a signal.


I'll check that and see if it's out of place. I see you have a switch 810... have you tried mounting the h220 as intake?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Best choice is more of the stock HydrX PM 2 coolant, but if you can't do that then I recommend just distilled water with a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - one bottle treats one gallon of distilled.
> 
> Just an FYI, a few of us have had trouble with PrimoChill 3/8-5/8 tubing and Swiftech's Lok-Seal compression fittings, so you will want to avoid that particular combination. XSPC and Swiftech tubing works fine though with their compressions fittings. I think ram cooling is not worth the trouble, but that is just me.
> 
> The temps you will get depend on a lot of things, ambient, what vCore is needed for the chip, how hot/cool that chip is with Intel's poor glue placement, case air flow, etc. It will work with no extra rads but good temps require more rad space.
> 1.20v for 4.6? That is a nice chip. That low vCore will help with keeping everything cool also.
> 
> *More rad is always better, just depends on what you can fit in your case. With that combo I think an extra 120 will give decent temps, nothing to worry about. I would just double check with Swiftech that the gpu stuff you are planning to get is compatible with your particular card.*


Yeah, I know all of that.

I can only get the Primochill in that size, the XSPC stuff here is only avaliable in 1/2 ID.
I can't get the HydrX PM 2, so I'll run with distilled


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Haven't switched tried going from exhaust push/pull to intake, but I just reseated and applied IC7 TIM and here's the results.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> One issue though... my pump doesn't show the RPM in bios or with any other utilities. It's plugged into the CPU fan header on the mobo without the splitter. Any ideas?


I also have the Extreme 6. I just used the splitter. I figured that way I know for a fact that the pump is getting enough voltage because I eliminated the motherboards power system from the equation. My board controls the pump perfectly in this configuration.


----------



## TeeBlack

i have an Extreme 4 and i use the splitter pump speeds shows up on mine.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> I also have the Extreme 6. I just used the splitter. I figured that way I know for a fact that the pump is getting enough voltage because I eliminated the motherboards power system from the equation. My board controls the pump perfectly in this configuration.


What kind of Extreme 6 though? AsRock make a couple of Extreme 6's, There's a P67 Extreme 6, a Z77 Extreme 6, and a Z68 Extreme 6? (Not sure on the last)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> i have an Extreme 4 and i use the splitter pump speeds shows up on mine.


See above


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What kind of Extreme 6 though? AsRock make a couple of Extreme 6's, There's a P67 Extreme 6, a Z77 Extreme 6, and a Z68 Extreme 6? (Not sure on the last)
> See above


mine is the P67 Extreme 4


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 4.6 @ 1.2? Daaaang...getting mine above 4.2 @ 1.2 is like pulling my own teeth! :'(


I've got my 3570k to 4.3 at 1.2v, and that wasn't too hard... I may even try and see if I can get the Vcore down lower.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> I've got my 3570k to 4.3 at 1.2v, and that wasn't too hard... I may even try and see if I can get the Vcore down lower.


My 3570k is doing 4.4 at 1.21, not tweaked a single thing other than Vcore and turbo multipliers.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those heat sinks are also made mainly for the reference PCBs. You'll need to get our MC800 SMC Cooling Kit to properly cool your ram chips and VRM/MOSFETs.


Will do.

I do have a question about the pump now actually

I am able to procure an Apogee HD + Dual 120 Quiet Power radiator for cheaper than an H220

http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx

http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx

How would the pumps/radiators compare to the H220 in terms of noise and thermic preformance?


----------



## Sazerac81

Thought I'd post a picture of the the H220 pump plate cover, I didn't like the all black look and thought a little bit of white on the cover plate might look a bit better. I think it accentuates the honeycomb pattern much more impressively. I have way too many dark colors in my Corsair 600T case.













Cheers,
John


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> Thought I'd post a picture of the the H220 pump plate cover, I didn't like the all black look and thought a little bit of white on the cover plate might look a bit better. I think it accentuates the honeycomb pattern much more impressively. I have way too many dark colors in my Corsair 600T case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> John[/quote
> 
> That's a sweet mod, gives me a few ideas about what to do when I get mine. I have that same case, though I am waiting for a couple more items before I build in it, the H220 and the Gen2 Individually Sleeved Cables in blue for my AX860i.


----------



## Sazerac81

test


----------



## Sazerac81

"That's a sweet mod, gives me a few ideas about what to do when I get mine. I have that same case, though I am waiting for a couple more items before I build in it, the H220 and the Gen2 Individually Sleeved Cables in blue for my AX860i."

Thanks for the compliments! Your build sounds awesome! I have thought long and hard about purchasing the AX860i myself just so I could purchase the sleeved modular cables in white. I think it would look really, really nice! Plus the AX i series are some of the nicest and most efficient PSUs out there. I definitely need to purchase a modular PSU unit just so I can de-clutter the mess of cables in the back. Let me tell you, it ain't pretty!

I bet it will be a sweet build, please do share!

Cheers,
John


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Will do.
> 
> I do have a question about the pump now actually
> 
> I am able to procure an Apogee HD + Dual 120 Quiet Power radiator for cheaper than an H220
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx
> 
> How would the pumps/radiators compare to the H220 in terms of noise and thermic preformance?


You're missing a pump and a reservoir in that setup. Let me know what pump you're planning to add to those components and I can tell you how it compares to the H220 pump. Our MCR-220 QP radiator is very similar to the radiator included with the H220 kit and therefore the thermal performance is also similar.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I'll check that and see if it's out of place. I see you have a switch 810... have you tried mounting the h220 as intake?


I do have a Switch 810, but I don't have an H220 in it. The liquid cooling system I have in it is completely custom and almost entirely comprised of Swiftech parts.


----------



## Skullwipe

I hate having a mediocre chip. 3570k 4.5GHz 1.28Vcore...seeing mid 70's on a P95 blend run. Though ambient is close to 29c in here atm so for a stock chip the temps aren't horrible, that Vcore just seems excessively high to me.

Edit: After 30 minutes my temps hit 85c...on blend. At 4.4 Ghz using 1.21v I topped out at 78c on In Place Large FFT's.


----------



## NeoDestiny

So after a month, the pump in my h220 has died.









Since the h220's are out of stock, will RMAing this mean I'd have to wait until they're in stock again to get another one?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I hate having a mediocre chip. 3570k 4.5GHz 1.28Vcore...seeing mid 70's on a P95 blend run. Though ambient is close to 29c in here atm so for a stock chip the temps aren't horrible, that Vcore just seems excessively high to me.
> 
> Edit: After 30 minutes my temps hit 85c...on blend. At 4.4 Ghz using 1.21v I topped out at 78c on In Place Large FFT's.


That is definitely not excessive. My first chip needed 1.33v for 4.5 and there are people here than need over 1.35v for it. The average voltage for Ivy and 4.5 is in the mid 1.20s so yours is a little worse than average but nothing excessive.


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> So after a month, the pump in my h220 has died.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the h220's are out of stock, will RMAing this mean I'd have to wait until they're in stock again to get another one?


Any warning signs before it died?

All this talk of dying pumps has me worried. I wonder what the total failure rate has been on this pump. The thing feels sturdy as hell and when Martin did a review of it, it looked like a really solid pump with good fit and finish.

Cheers,
John


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Since the h220's are out of stock, will RMAing this mean I'd have to wait until they're in stock again to get another one?


swiftech keeps a stock of new pumps for this reason.


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> Any warning signs before it died?
> 
> All this talk of dying pumps has me worried. I wonder what the total failure rate has been on this pump. The thing feels sturdy as hell and when Martin did a review of it, it looked like a really solid pump with good fit and finish.
> 
> Cheers,
> John


Yeah, actually. I'm a complete idiot, too. This is my first experience with both Sandybridge-e and a water cooler, so I made some mistakes in my initial assessment.

The pump had a problem where it would continuously power on and off and on and off, and my temps would rise and fall and rise and fall as a result. At first I assumed maybe 6-core processors had more fluctuating temperatures due to additional cores. Then when I peeked into the fan speeds and saw the pump shutting on and off and on and off, I assumed I had a bad motherboard setting somewhere. After tweaking it for hours and swapping fans in and out to test motherboard ports, I realized the pump was shutting on and off all by itself. Even when hooked into the fan controller it came with, it would turn on and off while everything else on that same fan controller remained steady.

Then finally, this morning, it stopped working altogether. Computer shut down automagically, I reached down and felt the rad block and it was VERY hot at the base. Waited 5 minutes, turned on computer, saw 0 feedback from the channel that I had it plugged into, watched temps eventually rise up to 90C again, then shut down computer. Dead pump.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Yeah, actually. I'm a complete idiot, too. This is my first experience with both Sandybridge-e and a water cooler, so I made some mistakes in my initial assessment.
> 
> The pump had a problem where it would continuously power on and off and on and off, and my temps would rise and fall and rise and fall as a result. At first I assumed maybe 6-core processors had more fluctuating temperatures due to additional cores. Then when I peeked into the fan speeds and saw the pump shutting on and off and on and off, I assumed I had a bad motherboard setting somewhere. After tweaking it for hours and swapping fans in and out to test motherboard ports, I realized the pump was shutting on and off all by itself. Even when hooked into the fan controller it came with, it would turn on and off while everything else on that same fan controller remained steady.
> 
> Then finally, this morning, it stopped working altogether. Computer shut down automagically, I reached down and felt the rad block and it was VERY hot at the base. Waited 5 minutes, turned on computer, saw 0 feedback from the channel that I had it plugged into, watched temps eventually rise up to 90C again, then shut down computer. Dead pump.


were you using the splitter?


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> were you using the splitter?


Originally, yes. But I tested it later on different mobo slots where other fans were working perfectly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Originally, yes. But I tested it later on different mobo slots where other fans were working perfectly.


I've sent you instructions on how to go about getting this kit RMA'd. I'm sorry for the inconvenience that this has caused you and we'll do our best to make it right.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

what is a good rpm to run pump at where it wont effect performance? i have it down to ~2000 and temps havnt changed from 100%. just wanted to know if i could run it lower wit good temps


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> what is a good rpm to run pump at where it wont effect performance? i have it down to ~2000 and temps havnt changed from 100%. just wanted to know if i could run it lower wit good temps


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/8/

This should have the information you need. I believe you get pretty solid cooling at about 30% PWM settings which puts the RPMs on the pump in the neighborhood of 1750-1900. I think there is like only a 1-2C difference at full fan rpms. So 30% PWM on pump vs. 100% PWM on pump with full rpms on fans will net you only 1C difference and it is much louder at higher rpms. Better performance can of course be achieved with push/pull config or adding some gentle typhoons or Noctua NF-F12 fans onto the radiator.

Cheers,
John


----------



## ExpertTrigger

I have a question for you guys. I want to use the provided PWM Splitter for controlling the pump. But I just received my Corsair 900D which has all 3-pin non-pwm fans. Would it hurt anything to hook those fans up to the splitter? I realize they would have to run at 12 volts. Anybody know the answer to this?

Thanks!


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> what is a good rpm to run pump at where it wont effect performance? i have it down to ~2000 and temps havnt changed from 100%. just wanted to know if i could run it lower wit good temps


I allow mine to drop to 1300 or 1400 rpm without issues. Hell, you'd probably be perfectly fine to set the lower limit in Speedfan to 0% or 1% (which equals 1200 rpm).


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExpertTrigger*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. I want to use the provided PWM Splitter for controlling the pump. But I just received my Corsair 900D which has all 3-pin non-pwm fans. Would it hurt anything to hook those fans up to the splitter? I realize they would have to run at 12 volts. Anybody know the answer to this?
> 
> Thanks!


it is fine to run 3 pins off the splitter. you already know that they will not be controlled.


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

@BramSLI1:

One of the fans on my H220 is making a really annoying clicking sound. It's actually making more noise than the pump itself.
Everything is connected properly using the PWM splitter provided, the pump is on CH1 and the fans on the other ports.

I bought my unit from NCIX.com, should I ask for a RMA from them or can this be resolved with Swiftech directly?

Thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> what is a good rpm to run pump at where it wont effect performance? i have it down to ~2000 and temps havnt changed from 100%. just wanted to know if i could run it lower wit good temps


I have mine set at 20% min @ 1500rpm roughly. As temps rise it goes up. I prefer quiet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> @BramSLI1:
> 
> One of the fans on my H220 is making a really annoying clicking sound. It's actually making more noise than the pump itself.
> Everything is connected properly using the PWM splitter provided, the pump is on CH1 and the fans on the other ports.
> 
> I bought my unit from NCIX.com, should I ask for a RMA from them or can this be resolved with Swiftech directly?
> 
> Thanks.


Contact Swiftech directly for RMA. NCIX has no stock right now.


----------



## ExpertTrigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExpertTrigger*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. I want to use the provided PWM Splitter for controlling the pump. But I just received my Corsair 900D which has all 3-pin non-pwm fans. Would it hurt anything to hook those fans up to the splitter? I realize they would have to run at 12 volts. Anybody know the answer to this?
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it is fine to run 3 pins off the splitter. you already know that they will not be controlled.


Thank you for the quick response! +REP


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> @BramSLI1:
> 
> One of the fans on my H220 is making a really annoying clicking sound. It's actually making more noise than the pump itself.
> Everything is connected properly using the PWM splitter provided, the pump is on CH1 and the fans on the other ports.
> 
> I bought my unit from NCIX.com, should I ask for a RMA from them or can this be resolved with Swiftech directly?
> 
> Thanks.


You can contact me directly about this by sending me an email with your invoice to [email protected] We'll just replace your defective fan.


----------



## Robbieladd

Those temps are pretty high. My 3930K running at 4.1 ghz, 100% load and 155 watts cools at an average of 56 *C with the hottest core at 64*C. My idle temps are a little high for whatever reason; around 35*C. Motherboard idles at 32*C. I have the H220 controlled by Asus FanExpert to idle at 30% and includes a push/pull scenario with Noiseblocker PWM fans pushing and Noctua NF-F12's pulling. Effective and quieter than the Helix fans which I now use to cool my HDD's (four of them) at about 60% speed rating. The system emits a very quiet "woosh" that is barely noticeable at idle and a comfortable low level "roar" at load. Much quieter than my former mildly overclocked QX6700 (3.0ghz) under a Noctua DH-14 twin fan cooler.

In any case, your temps look high for the wattage reported.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys, what universal GPU block do you recommend?

- XSPC Raystorm
- Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X3 LC
- EK Supremacy
- EK Supremacy bridge edition
- Swiftech MCW82

The card it's a reference 670, maybe in a future in SLI.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys, what universal GPU block do you recommend?
> 
> - XSPC Raystorm
> - Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X3 LC
> - EK Supremacy
> - EK Supremacy bridge edition
> - Swiftech MCW82
> 
> The card it's a reference 670, maybe in a future in SLI.


I would wait. Swiftech is coming out with GTX 670 Komodo. It is a full block and it looks nice.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> what is a good rpm to run pump at where it wont effect performance? i have it down to ~2000 and temps havnt changed from 100%. just wanted to know if i could run it lower wit good temps


i run mine at 1500rpm


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can contact me directly about this by sending me an email with your invoice to [email protected] We'll just replace your defective fan.


Just sent you my invoice, thanks a lot!


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would wait. Swiftech is coming out with GTX 670 Komodo. It is a full block and it looks nice.


Really i looking for a universal block, for futures upgrades.


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would wait. Swiftech is coming out with GTX 670 Komodo. It is a full block and it looks nice.


Is it known whether or not this will fit the EVGA 4 Gb models? or just the stock models? I've been looking at the alphacool copper blocks that work with the 4 Gb model to add to the loop when the H320 is released.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> Is it known whether or not this will fit the EVGA 4 Gb models? or just the stock models? I've been looking at the alphacool copper blocks that work with the 4 Gb model to add to the loop when the H320 is released.


The only difference is the amount of ram on the 4GB. Rest is exactly the same. The block will cover all the ram spacing either if it is 2gb or 4gb
It is just not a good design to do other wise.

Where you see #1 it is either 1 or 2 ram slots used. #2 is same for both 2gb & 4gb models.


This is the XSPC that was used on 4GB model.


----------



## Nilsom

hello,
I need your help
which block rad hose fittings,
who can advise me for my ring
I really want to move to water
but do not know anything about it,

thank you all

my ring

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/p5050010q.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/p5050012s.jpg/


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> hello,
> I need your help
> which block rad hose fittings,
> who can advise me for my ring
> I really want to move to water
> but do not know anything about it,
> 
> thank you all
> 
> my ring
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/p5050010q.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/p5050012s.jpg/


If you want to cool those graphics cards, you'll most likely need at least another 240mm rad if you don't plan on OC'ing. XSPC 3/8 x 5/8" tubing fits fine on the swivel fittings of the H220.

Just look around the forums to see how people set up their loops for some neat ideas. I actually purchased a bay reservoir and placed the reservoir at the highest bay slot so that the drainage would flow into the pump/CPU block intake of the H220. That way you can just fill and bleed the whole loop while you have everything completely installed in the system.

Cheers,
John


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> If you want to cool those graphics cards, you'll most likely need at least another 240mm rad if you don't plan on OC'ing. XSPC 3/8 x 5/8" tubing fits fine on the swivel fittings of the H220.
> 
> Just look around the forums to see how people set up their loops for some neat ideas. I actually purchased a bay reservoir and placed the reservoir at the highest bay slot so that the drainage would flow into the pump/CPU block intake of the H220. That way you can just fill and bleed the whole loop while you have everything completely installed in the system.
> 
> Cheers,
> John


thanks for the help friend,
but still do not quite understand


----------



## Brennan Hodges

why does cpu-z and HWmonitor report my MAX cpu voltage at 1.248 but i have it set to 1.255 in BIOS. even with cpu at 100% load the voltage wont pass 1.248, i never see 1.255 (what i set it to)

Note: this doesn't really have to do with h220 but figured id ask for a fast response


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> why does cpu-z and HWmonitor report my MAX cpu voltage at 1.248 but i have it set to 1.255 in BIOS. even with cpu at 100% load the voltage wont pass 1.248, i never see 1.255 (what i set it to)
> 
> Note: this doesn't really have to do with h220 but figured id ask for a fast response


Vdroop, under load mine reports 1.28 when its 1.30 in the bios.


----------



## MrStick89

Experiencing ridiculous temp spikes in HWmonitor is this just a bug from crazy low idle temps or what? This never happened with my 212+ beginning to get worried my pump intermittent.. Has happened multiple times, 90c+. Temps are fine stress testing etc. Just totally random.. FX8350,990fxa-ud3


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Experiencing ridiculous temp spikes in HWmonitor is this just a bug from crazy low idle temps or what? This never happened with my 212+ beginning to get worried my pump intermittent.. Has happened multiple times, 90c+. Temps are fine stress testing etc. Just totally random.. FX8350,990fxa-ud3


i have read that FX temperatures at idle could be way off (some report below ambient temps). If at load it's fine, then I wouldnt worry too much about it.

Are you monitoring pump speed at all? How is your pump connected to your computer? I would use some kind of monitoring tool like speedfan to alert you if the pump ever slows down below 1200 rpm.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can contact me directly about this by sending me an email with your invoice to [email protected] We'll just replace your defective fan.


Can't say enough about this, I had the same issue and they got me taken care of after a few emails. Fans are both running nice and quiet now.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> thanks for the help friend,
> but still do not quite understand


Can you explain exactly what you want to do? A friend of mine speaks portuguese, so I may be able to get you an answer you can more easily understand..


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you check the PWM connector on the pump to be sure that all of the pins are seated properly in the connector? This is about the only thing I can think it would be. If the pin that is supposed to report the speed of the pump isn't seated properly then it's not going to give a signal.


Looked at the connector and everything seemed fine to me. Also tried using the splitter rather than directly plugging into the CPU header and that was the same result. 0 RPM in bios and in software.


----------



## MrStick89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i have read that FX temperatures at idle could be way off (some report below ambient temps). If at load it's fine, then I wouldnt worry too much about it.
> 
> Are you monitoring pump speed at all? How is your pump connected to your computer? I would use some kind of monitoring tool like speedfan to alert you if the pump ever slows down below 1200 rpm.


How should I have this setup? Recently got it and I'm using the supplied splitter running off the CPU_fan plug. the pump and fans plugged in to that using auto spd in bios on my 990fxa-ud3.


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> thanks for the help friend,
> but still do not quite understand


No problem... so you are trying to expand the cooling loop to your GPUs, am I correct in that assumption?

Well, based on the two Graphics cards, you need at least another radiator that can handle the heat load. I guess the rule of thumb is a 120mm radiator for each large heat source (ie. cpu, gpu, etc.). So, you will need to take into consideration the extra heat load added to the cooling system when incorporating two graphics cards to the water-cooling system. You will of course need either universal GPU blocks (which will not cool your memory or the VRM unit) or a full GPU block which will cover those other elements I mentioned in parentheses.

I mentioned the 3/8 x 5/8" XSPC tubing because that is what has been found to fit the H220 fittings. I have used them myself and they seem to work very well. Why don't you give the folks here a little bit more information about what you want for your system? Your original request was a bit vague... There are plenty of very knowledgeable folks on this site who are more than happy to help.

Cheers,
John


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> How should I have this setup? Recently got it and I'm using the supplied splitter running off the CPU_fan plug. the pump and fans plugged in to that using auto spd in bios on my 990fxa-ud3.


With the Pump plugged into the #1 slot in the splitter, your CPU FAN header should be reading the pump's speed.

It looks like you can monitor the speeds using the utilities you already have. Just keep an eye and make sure the CPU fan _minimum_ never goes below 1200 rpm.

Your motherboard fan control utility or speedfan can probably be configured to alert you.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> With the Pump plugged into the #1 slot in the splitter, your CPU FAN header should be reading the pump's speed.
> 
> It looks like you can monitor the speeds using the utilities you already have. Just keep an eye and make sure the CPU fan _minimum_ never goes below 1200 rpm.
> 
> Your motherboard fan control utility or speedfan can probably be configured to alert you.


Mine drops to 1185 at times, at 0% in speed fan it hovers between that and 2000.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Mine drops to 1185 at times, at 0% in speed fan it hovers between that and 2000.


ah close enough i guess. I personally have my speedfan alerting me at < 10 rpm


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> ah close enough i guess. I personally have my speedfan alerting me at < 10 rpm


I've not set up any alerts at this point...my current dilemma is if I'm going to de-lid my 3570k or not. I guess it depends on if I can afford a Haswell chip and new UD5H or G1.Sniper M5...just in case I screw it up.


----------



## Allygash

Hi guys any of you witnessed weird stuff happening to your H220 pump?

See this thread here http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2165&p=9862&sid=e356cb6a0cf9e0bc1c301345fc85fd67#p9862

Basically when i stress my cpu using prime or bf3 for example the H220 pump dies/goes to zero flow, when i stop the stressing it revives and start up again. The pc hard locks under stress because of the temp spike(90c+) caused by the pump stopping.

I monitor the pump speed using asus ai suite II and can see the pump die and revive, all very strange and this has only just started after 3+ months of perfection. I had it running with 2 sanyo denki 120x35mm fans with fantastic temps and super quiet. Don't want, read cant be bothered, to swap it all out for Kraken x60 i have.

I've tried all sorts of things, to be clear i connected the pump directly to the CPU fan header on the board and ran it at full, 3000rpm(no PWM/Q-fan), to eliminate the fan splitter as an issue. Tried all the different fan headers on my board plus direct connect to PSU. It cant be a blocked pump issue due to the fact it runs at 3000+ rpm all day when the cpu is not stressed.

Anyone else seen witnessed this? There is one other guy over on the linked swiftech forums who has the very same problem.

Cheers


----------



## ez12a

my first pump had that problem. I even posted a video for swiftech to take a look at. I dont think i've ever really explained what the problem was with my first pump.

I had just expanded my loop, and leak tested it with the computer off while i was at work for a few hours. Pump was connected to the splitter and an external PSU i have lying around (ETASIS 750w, a quality PSU).

Came back, made the finishing touches on the computer and powered it up and immediately ran prime95 to stress test the system (with the GPU added). I hear the pump whir to a halt and my temps instantly shot up.

I figured that was weird, and powered the pump off of the splitter/external PSU just in case (splitter control was not hooked up to CPU header, so it should run at full speed). Every time some load or heat was applied to the h220, it would stop working. I could power off the computer, wait a few minutes while the pump cycled on and off before eventually it would spin up and stay on. Power the computer on again, and the pump goes into a on/off cycle while connected to an external power supply.

My second H220 pump has not exhibited the same issue. I am not sure to this day what caused the problem.


----------



## Watagump

Mine is plugged direct into CPU 1, it also runs right around 1170-1180rpm.


----------



## italstal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Hi guys any of you witnessed weird stuff happening to your H220 pump?
> 
> See this thread here http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2165&p=9862&sid=e356cb6a0cf9e0bc1c301345fc85fd67#p9862
> 
> Basically when i stress my cpu using prime or bf3 for example the H220 pump dies/goes to zero flow, when i stop the stressing it revives and start up again. The pc hard locks under stress because of the temp spike(90c+) caused by the pump stopping.
> 
> I monitor the pump speed using asus ai suite II and can see the pump die and revive, all very strange and this has only just started after 3+ months of perfection. I had it running with 2 sanyo denki 120x35mm fans with fantastic temps and super quiet. Don't want, read cant be bothered, to swap it all out for Kraken x60 i have.
> 
> I've tried all sorts of things, to be clear i connected the pump directly to the CPU fan header on the board and ran it at full, 3000rpm(no PWM/Q-fan), to eliminate the fan splitter as an issue. Tried all the different fan headers on my board plus direct connect to PSU. It cant be a blocked pump issue due to the fact it runs at 3000+ rpm all day when the cpu is not stressed.
> 
> Anyone else seen witnessed this? There is one other guy over on the linked swiftech forums who has the very same problem.
> 
> Cheers


I had this same problem. The pump worked fine for a couple weeks, then when ever it was stressed during a demanding game, it would shutoff like you describe. I was told it was a problem with the electronics or more specifically the pump's duty cycle adjustment when I sent it in for rma.


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Hi guys any of you witnessed weird stuff happening to your H220 pump?
> 
> See this thread here http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2165&p=9862&sid=e356cb6a0cf9e0bc1c301345fc85fd67#p9862
> 
> Basically when i stress my cpu using prime or bf3 for example the H220 pump dies/goes to zero flow, when i stop the stressing it revives and start up again. The pc hard locks under stress because of the temp spike(90c+) caused by the pump stopping.
> 
> I monitor the pump speed using asus ai suite II and can see the pump die and revive, all very strange and this has only just started after 3+ months of perfection. I had it running with 2 sanyo denki 120x35mm fans with fantastic temps and super quiet. Don't want, read cant be bothered, to swap it all out for Kraken x60 i have.
> 
> I've tried all sorts of things, to be clear i connected the pump directly to the CPU fan header on the board and ran it at full, 3000rpm(no PWM/Q-fan), to eliminate the fan splitter as an issue. Tried all the different fan headers on my board plus direct connect to PSU. It cant be a blocked pump issue due to the fact it runs at 3000+ rpm all day when the cpu is not stressed.
> 
> Anyone else seen witnessed this? There is one other guy over on the linked swiftech forums who has the very same problem.
> 
> Cheers


Your pump is probably dying. This exact same thing just happened to me, and ended with my pump dying, heh.






You can't see the fanspeed of the pump because I have it connected all its own to like chassis 2 or some ****, but I'm pretty sure it's the same problem you describe. Fan starts spinning, temps come down to normal areas, then pump stops, temps go up to 60-70-80-even 90, then pump turns on, repeats. Does it for the EXACT same cycle of time, regardless of load or temps, just shuts off/turns on/shuts off/turns on. Even when connected to the splitter, it will be the only device on said splitter that behaves that way.

Probably go down the RMA route, the Bram guy seems nice enough in helping people out.


----------



## Allygash

Great guys exactly the feedback i was hoping for thank you, thought i was alone with this n had some weird **** goin on. I was hoping for some 'magic' fix so i dont have to completely disassemble my pc but i guess I'll just take it out & install the kraken x60 i have, cant afford to cook my 3930k. Again thx for the feedback...


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Your pump is probably dying. This exact same thing just happened to me, and ended with my pump dying, heh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't see the fanspeed of the pump because I have it connected all its own to like chassis 2 or some ****, but I'm pretty sure it's the same problem you describe. Fan starts spinning, temps come down to normal areas, then pump stops, temps go up to 60-70-80-even 90, then pump turns on, repeats. Does it for the EXACT same cycle of time, regardless of load or temps, just shuts off/turns on/shuts off/turns on. Even when connected to the splitter, it will be the only device on said splitter that behaves that way.
> 
> Probably go down the RMA route, the Bram guy seems nice enough in helping people out.


Way too many people still having pump problems and this on/off/on/off seems like some sort of internal circuit protection tripping.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I do have a Switch 810, but I don't have an H220 in it. The liquid cooling system I have in it is completely custom and almost entirely comprised of Swiftech parts.


My system is entirely swiftech besides the titan block. You guys wouldn't want to exchange one of your titan blocks for my EK and backplate would ya? xD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Way too many people still having pump problems and this on/off/on/off seems like some sort of internal circuit protection tripping.


Yea, I'm thinking that too.

We already know the circuit protection will trip the pump on potential flow blockage being stuck in the pump. It seems there might be a temperature threshold somewhere on the pump itself, which when exceeded will shut the pump down.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Way too many people still having pump problems and this on/off/on/off seems like some sort of internal circuit protection tripping.


To me it sounds like the pump is not connected to a pwm header on your mainboard. If this is not the case and as has been suggested the internal protective circuitry is being tripped, why is this not happening on all the pumps? It seems very odd.

By the way has there been an announcement of when the H320 will be shipping?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> To me it sounds like the pump is not connected to a pwm header on your mainboard. If this is not the case and as has been suggested the internal protective circuitry is being tripped, why is this not happening on all the pumps? It seems very odd.


inconsistencies in QA unfortunately.

Gabe and Bryan are working hard to rectify any issues, however.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I got exactly the same problem in two H220 units that Allygash is describing. Couple of pages back I post it blaming my cpu fan header. It is not in fact since on several motherboards (3 different ones) and 3 different PSU's I got exactly the same problem. I am in the process of RMA the pump/block second time now....

Gabriel


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> inconsistencies in QA unfortunately.
> 
> Gabe and Bryan are working hard to rectify any issues, however.


I am sure they are. I am going to ask a question out of pure curiosity, so I do NOT want a bunch of angry Swiftech afficionados jumping down my throat. Wouldn't it have been better to get the production and quality assurance issues worked out before the the shipping of the product? I realize that may take a little more time and money, but it spares the reputation of the company. I know Gabe is committed to correcting these issues and the customer service is superb. But nonetheless it would greatly reduce his and our anxiety if all major issues were resolved in the pre-market production process. This well may be how it is handled throughout the industry, but it then raises questions about industry practices. I guess that all goes into the equation of maximization of profits.
It would be ironic if the problem was caused by somebody scratching their crotch occasionally on the production line and some sweat getting on the pump components during assembly.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I am sure they are. _am going to ask a question out of pure curiosity so I do NOT want a bunch of angry Swiftech afficionados jumping down my throat. Wouldn't it have been better to get the production and quality assurance issues worked out before the the shipping of the product? I realize that may take a little more time and money, but it spares the reputation of the company. I know Gabe is committed to correcting these issues and the customer service is superb. But nontheless it would greatly reduce his and our anxiety if all major issues were resolved in the pre-market production process. This well may be how it is handled throughout the industry, but it raises questions about industry practices. I guess that all goes into the equation of maximization of profits._


Here's my take on it, there are several factors that play out in QC/QA and on top of those the methodology used.


Were the initial QA samples provided by the same production line as the retail product?
How large was the sample size used in QA testing before going forward with the design?
What was the duration of the initial QA and secondary QC testing of the retail units?
What if any changes were made on the supply side after the initial QA engineering sample?
How tight are the manufacturing tolerances compared to the initial engineering sample?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Here's my take on it, there are several factors that play out in QC/QA and on top of those the methodology used.
> 
> 
> Were the initial QA samples provided by the same production line as the retail product?
> How large was the sample size used in QA testing before going forward with the design?
> What was the duration of the initial QA and secondary QC testing of the retail units?
> What if any changes were made on the supply side after the initial QA engineering sample?
> How tight are the manufacturing tolerances compared to the initial engineering sample?


You did an excellent analysis of the issues to be resolved in improving the quality. I would think one out of every five should come off the line initially. Then after discovered issues are resolved one out of every 50. The issue of difference in tolerances from engineering and production samples is an interesting question. The testing on samples taken may NOT have been long enough in duration to discover the problem initially.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I got exactly the same problem in two H220 units that Allygash is describing. Couple of pages back I post it blaming my cpu fan header. It is not in fact since on several motherboards (3 different ones) and 3 different PSU's I got exactly the same problem. I am in the process of RMA the pump/block second time now....
> 
> Gabriel


We're sending out your replacement pump today Gabriel. In looking into this the issue can't be related to the stress that the CPU is under. This pump wouldn't shut off simply because of heat load. These pumps can run at a much higher heat load than what a processor is able to generate. The issue has to be related to the pump periodically shutting off. The reason it's only being noticed during load is because this is when it gets hot enough to cause the system to shut down. During idle the processor isn't under stress and therefore is less likely to generate the amount of heat necessary to trigger a shut down. Being also that it starts right up again, by the time it starts back up the processor doesn't have a chance to reach the critical thermal threshold while at idle. I hope this clears up the questions concerning this issue.


----------



## BradleyW

Do Swiftech have a HQ in the EU to handle RMA's?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> You can't see the fanspeed of the pump because I have it connected all its own to like chassis 2 or some ****,


If you have your pump connected to the Chassis 2 header then this is could be the cause of your issue with our pump. The Chassis 2 header is most likely voltage regulated and therefore it's not giving the pump the PWM signal that it requires for proper functioning. Please try using your CPU fan header to see if that corrects your issue with our pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Do Swiftech have a HQ in the EU to handle RMA's?


Yes we do. You'll need to go through Bacata to get RMA support for our products in the EU.


----------



## bond32

Where can I get some additional hose clamps like the ones in the video in the OP? I am adding a 120mm rad. Would just regular worm drive clamps work?

Same size tubing as what comes stock to the h220, 3/8 ID 5/8 OD.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Where can I get some additional hose clamps like the ones in the video in the OP? I am adding a 120mm rad. Would just regular worm drive clamps work?
> 
> Same size tubing as what comes stock to the h220, 3/8 ID 5/8 OD.


If the worm drive clamps are small enough they should work fine. We currently don't sell the same clamps for the H220 kit separately.


----------



## jderbs

Check out my temps... any reason for such inconsistency? Core 1 and 2 are 16-17 degrees cooler than core 4. Does this mean I don't have a good TIM spread or is this just expected with a 6 core CPU? My temps are overall down about 10 degrees since reseating the heatsink the last time, but this just seems odd.


----------



## savagepagan

What fans would be better for this radiator. A higher static pressure fan or a higher air flow fan Such as the corsair sp120 or the af120?


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> What fans would be better for this radiator. A higher static pressure fan of a higher air flow fan Such as the corsair sp120 or the af120?


static pressure.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> To me it sounds like the pump is not connected to a pwm header on your mainboard. If this is not the case and as has been suggested the internal protective circuitry is being tripped, why is this not happening on all the pumps? It seems very odd.
> 
> By the way has there been an announcement of when the H320 will be shipping?


I was watching Neo's video last night and I'm not sure. If PWM is not connected at all then it should revert to full speed. I ran several tests when reviewing with the PWM purposely disconnected. The pump retains full 3,000rpm speeds. What Neo was showing is a very sharp pump on...pump off...pump on type behavior. That to me seems more like a circuit protection feature kicking on and off and then trying again. I heard the debris issue could cause this but not sure why they continue for some folks on second and even third pump samples. I had no pump shutting off issues at all in the limited time (2weeks) I had one running continuously.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I was watching Neo's video last night and I'm not sure. If PWM is not connected at all then it should revert to full speed. I ran several tests when reviewing with the PWM purposely disconnected. The pump retains full 3,000rpm speeds. What Neo was showing is a very sharp pump on...pump off...pump on type behavior. That to me seems more like a circuit protection feature kicking on and off and then trying again. I heard the debris issue could cause this but not sure why they continue for some folks on second and even third pump samples. I had no pump shutting off issues at all in the limited time (2weeks) I had one running continuously.


Yep I agree. But one funny thing I have been noticing is that most folks experiencing this on off on off behavior of the pump have an ASUS board. It is anecdotal at this point but strikes me odd since I tested in 3 different ASUS x79 boards too with problem showing up. I know a lot of folks out there are using Asus boards and the h220 without problems but alas...Perhaps would be useful to check on this data if they are available Bryan.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Check out my temps... any reason for such inconsistency? Core 1 and 2 are 16-17 degrees cooler than core 4. Does this mean I don't have a good TIM spread or is this just expected with a 6 core CPU? My temps are overall down about 10 degrees since reseating the heatsink the last time, but this just seems odd.


It is normal to have 1-2 cores lower. My 3770k has same issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> What fans would be better for this radiator. A higher static pressure fan or a higher air flow fan Such as the corsair sp120 or the af120?


neither. The stock fan works perfect on them. The H220 dont need high static pressure, due to the low fpi rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> What fans would be better for this radiator. A higher static pressure fan of a higher air flow fan Such as the corsair sp120 or the af120?
> 
> 
> 
> static pressure.
Click to expand...

Not needed for the H220. Tested with stock and NF-P12 temps were 1-2c difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep I agree. But one funny thing I have been noticing is that most folks experiencing this on off on off behavior of the pump have an ASUS board. It is anecdotal at this point but strikes me odd since I tested in 3 different ASUS x79 boards too with problem showing up. I know a lot of folks out there are using Asus boards and the h220 without problems but alas...Perhaps would be useful to check on this data if they are available Bryan.


I have mine on Asus mobo, no issues seeing this. Using the splitter ch1, is read only while getting power from PSU. Another way is to bypass all together the cpu header and go directly to the PSU.
Watch your temps closely for a bit too see any changes.


----------



## os2wiz

Brian is there any further word of when H320 product will ship? Right now I am on fan cooling as my Corsair H100 leaked all over my motherboard, had to replace the board.
Also when I get the H320 , it is going to be installed in the top of my case. Is it possible to get the fill port facing up in an installation in the top of the case?


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is normal to have 1-2 cores lower. My 3770k has same issues.
> 
> Not needed for the H220. Tested with stock and NF-P12 temps were 1-2c difference..


Okay, thanks. Are you saying my GT AP-15s are a waste and I should use something quieter like the Corsair SP120?


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep I agree. But one funny thing I have been noticing is that most folks experiencing this on off on off behavior of the pump have an ASUS board. It is anecdotal at this point but strikes me odd since I tested in 3 different ASUS x79 boards too with problem showing up. I know a lot of folks out there are using Asus boards and the h220 without problems but alas...Perhaps would be useful to check on this data if they are available Bryan.


Just chiming in. I did a customer build on a UD3H with an h220 and he hasn't had any problems with his. My board was an x79 asrock board. Just for clarification.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is normal to have 1-2 cores lower. My 3770k has same issues.
> neither. The stock fan works perfect on them. The H220 dont need high static pressure, due to the low fpi rad.
> Not needed for the H220. Tested with stock and NF-P12 temps were 1-2c difference.
> I have mine on Asus mobo, no issues seeing this. Using the splitter ch1, is read only while getting power from PSU. Another way is to bypass all together the cpu header and go directly to the PSU.
> Watch your temps closely for a bit too see any changes.


I have seen opposite info, Noctua NF F12 beat the stock fans by quite a bit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Okay, thanks. Are you saying my GT AP-15s are a waste and I should use something quieter like the Corsair SP120?


SP120 is not quiet compared to AP15, the noise at full speed is loud and the hum from all speeds is annoying. You can use the AP15 if you have it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have seen opposite info, Noctua NF F12 beat the stock fans by quite a bit.


That is varied with ambient temps. I was talking about the P12. The F12 is only really good for push, pull lacks what the fan can do. F12 is deigned in a way to be used that way. adding pull makes a bad sound when doing P/P.
Even the F12 the temps is still small. But the sound difference with the stock and F12 is better on stock, and even the P12 over the F12.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> SP120 is not quiet compared to AP15, the noise at full speed is loud and the hum from all speeds is annoying. You can use the AP15 if you have it.
> That is varied with ambient temps. I was talking about the P12. The F12 is only really good for push, pull lacks what the fan can do. F12 is deigned in a way to be used that way. adding pull makes a bad sound when doing P/P.
> Even the F12 the temps is still small. But the sound difference with the stock and F12 is better on stock, and even the P12 over the F12.


Ambient temps are factored in and all tests are done in a pull config.


----------



## bond32

Just got the new 120 rad put in. Install was actually more difficult than I anticipated. Still hear just a few air bubbles but I am hoping they will go away soon. Still need to figure out how to use speedfan to control the pump/fans.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## witeboy07

Here is a little update to my current setup!


----------



## BramSLI1

Just to inform those that are still looking for the H220 kits, Sidewinder computers still has them in stock.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Just chiming in. I did a customer build on a UD3H with an h220 and he hasn't had any problems with his. My board was an x79 asrock board. Just for clarification.


I'm thinking that the issue isn't so much a matter of Asus motherboards as it is a matter of their popularity. Being that Asus is still the most popular motherboard company the majority of issues are going to be reported on Asus motherboards just as a matter of statistics. If we find otherwise though we will inform our customers.


----------



## Kryshek

Sorry if these questions are dumb, or have been asked before, but I don't have the energy to read through 317 pages, lol.

H220 should work with Haswell (4770k) right?

I know that h220 is expandable, but can it cool 2x GPUs along with the cpu effectively, and does adding gpu's mess with the 3 year maintenance free thing?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm thinking that the issue isn't so much a matter of Asus motherboards as it a matter of their popularity. Being that Asus is still the most popular motherboard company the majority of issues are going to be reported on Asus motherboards just as a matter of statistics. If we find otherwise though we will inform our customers.


Any further word on the availability of the H320?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryshek*
> 
> Sorry if these questions are dumb, or have been asked before, but I don't have the energy to read through 317 pages, lol.
> 
> H220 should work with Haswell (4770k) right?
> 
> I know that h220 is expandable, but can it cool 2x GPUs along with the cpu effectively, and does adding gpu's mess with the 3 year maintenance free thing?


lga 1150 uses the same mounting mechanisms as 1155/1156


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryshek*
> 
> Sorry if these questions are dumb, or have been asked before, but I don't have the energy to read through 317 pages, lol.
> 
> H220 should work with Haswell (4770k) right?
> 
> I know that h220 is expandable, but can it cool 2x GPUs along with the cpu effectively, and does adding gpu's mess with the 3 year maintenance free thing?


The H220 *pump* can certainly handle the CPU and two GPUs, but you're going to want to add at least another 240mm of radiator to the loop in order to effectively cool all three components.


----------



## Kryshek

Thanks for the replies guys, both were helpful








+rep


----------



## dsmwookie

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsm... Modding/20130523_210815_zps0a2279fb.jpg.html

Does anything look wrong with this loop set up for the H220? I can hear the pump kicking on, but it is like it doesn't want to build pressure.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Does anything look wrong with this loop set up for the H220? I can hear the pump kicking on, but it is like it doesn't want to build pressure.


probably air in the system still. Try removing the entire loop (rads, GPU, all) and bleeding it outside the case.

I unmounted everything but the CPU block and shook/rotated everything to get air out of the rads and gpu blocks.

once the pump hits a pocket of air from the inlet it pretty much stops pulling fluid.


----------



## dsmwookie

Thanks ez12a. I was just contemplating that but it now gives me a task for the evening


----------



## bond32

Finally got control of my pump. Appears its either compatibility with my board or I have a defective PWM splitter. Plugged the pump only into the cpu header and disabled bios control, now I am able to control the pump speeds with speedfan. Still can't control the fans, my board has another pwm header for a separate channel. Connecting the two helix fans to the splitter, then the splitter to the other channel still causes the fans to run at full speed. Fans by themselves are able to be controlled without the splitter except both helix fans are pwm and I only have one pwm header free.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> http://s14.photobucket.com/user/dsm... Modding/20130523_210815_zps0a2279fb.jpg.html
> 
> Does anything look wrong with this loop set up for the H220? I can hear the pump kicking on, but it is like it doesn't want to build pressure.


+1

I see you are running your radiator with the plenum chamber upside down. Purging air with that sort of setup installed requires higher flow rates than what the H220 can dish out.

You really need to pull the loop out of the case to bleed. Even with just the H220 rad, you are at most pushing about 0.6GPM of flow where a DIY watercooling loop is typically pushing 1.0+. You need all the parts out on a table where you can turn and raise and help the air pockets walk out of the loop manually. Once you completely bleed, then you can put it all back in there.


----------



## dsmwookie

I've got it out on a table now and hooked up to a spare PSU. The outlet line has pressure, but the rest of the loop seems void of any flow/pressure. Should I be doing anything specific to help bleed off the air from the other parts of the system? I am moving the individual parts around while keeping the reservoir/240 radiator at the highest point. It honestly feels like the inlet line has no fluid in it at all, but the radiator is slap full of coolant.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Check out my temps... any reason for such inconsistency? Core 1 and 2 are 16-17 degrees cooler than core 4. Does this mean I don't have a good TIM spread or is this just expected with a 6 core CPU? My temps are overall down about 10 degrees since reseating the heatsink the last time, but this just seems odd.


Yeah same here on my 3570k before I de-lidded. Temps are less of a gap now


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I've got it out on a table now and hooked up to a spare PSU. The outlet line has pressure, but the rest of the loop seems void of any flow/pressure. Should I be doing anything specific to help bleed off the air from the other parts of the system? I am moving the individual parts around while keeping the reservoir/240 radiator at the highest point. It honestly feels like the inlet line has no fluid in it at all, but the radiator is slap full of coolant.


You might try opening up the little phillips screw bleed screw on the pump to help prime it for a second. Sounds like it's having trouble getting fluid into the pump and that may help air escape and fill the volute. It is right next to the outlet port. When I filled, I just held the block/pump down low and held the radiator reservoir up high and let the air work it's way up to the reservoir, but a more complex loop may be more difficult to do that.


----------



## Ricey20

Annnnnnd my pump failed. Went away for a week for vacation, come back home and cpu fan not detected. I have one of the first batches so it lasted awhile at least. Going to set up an RMA.


----------



## BradleyW

What is the best way to control the pump speed?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the best way to control the pump speed?


There is one one way you should connect it. Use the PWM splitter which draws 12v from the PSU and plug the splitter into you motherboard PWM capable 4 pin fan header.

As far as PWM control, that varies depending on the motherboard. Asus and some other have pretty good fan control software. Some motherboard bios can do it too. My ASrock MB sucked though so Speedfan was really the only usable option. Takes a little learning and tinkering in speedfan, but it does have some precise control where you can setup PWM vs CPU temp curves to slowly ramp up speeds as heat increases.


----------



## mb6079

im having some problems with my build, there is no video output and the gpu fans arent spinning up. took it into a hardware place and they told me it is most likely the cpu but they didnt have a spare socket 2011 cpu to test it against and didnt bother trying another cooler. so im wondering could the h220 cause that to happen, if it were faulty?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mb6079*
> 
> im having some problems with my build, there is no video output and the gpu fans arent spinning up. took it into a hardware place and they told me it is most likely the cpu but they didnt have a spare socket 2011 cpu to test it against and didnt bother trying another cooler. so im wondering could the h220 cause that to happen, if it were faulty?


usually no. Unless the backplate was somehow shorting against something on the motherboard. There's nothing other than the mounting mechanism and waterblock that touches the motherboard/cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Finally got control of my pump. Appears its either compatibility with my board or I have a defective PWM splitter. Plugged the pump only into the cpu header and disabled bios control, now I am able to control the pump speeds with speedfan. Still can't control the fans, my board has another pwm header for a separate channel. Connecting the two helix fans to the splitter, then the splitter to the other channel still causes the fans to run at full speed. Fans by themselves are able to be controlled without the splitter except both helix fans are pwm and I only have one pwm header free.


This really sounds like it's being voltage controlled, but it seems like you've tried several methods to get PWM/splitter to work. If you plug in a 3 pin fan into the CPU header does it change speed? if so then it's voltage.


----------



## GioV

I followed the advice on this forum and modified my system to achieve the best temps, I cannot post any updated pictures pictures now since I am at work.


*This picture is prior to my modifications (Changes include- New Akasa fans in P/P, New Tim, REMOVAL of bottom 120mm Koolance 30fpi radiator)

Setup:
i5 3570k
7970 on a Swiftech Komodo Water block
MSI Mpower Mobo
Cooling:
H220 pump
Alpha Cool 280mm UT60 (Updated w/ Akasa Viper S flow Push/Pull in intake)
H220 Radiator with stock helix fans in intake
Thermal Paste:
I ran out of Swiftech Tim that came with the H220. Since I was hoping this would be my last modification of my watercooling set up I went ahead and bought a single use Indigo Xtreme (http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/)

Old temps on Idle for both CPU and GPU
38-41C
on Load
60-63

New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
34-36C
on load
58-61C

Ambient Temps 24C

Do these temps seem right to anyone? I've seen various watercooling setups from firends and online and they all outright destroy the temperatures I am receiving. My XFX 7970 gets about the same temps as the stock fan and my 3570k is on par with my old Hyper 212+. Prior to expanding the loop my stock H220 on idle was getting 24-29C, load has remained the same. I do not know what I'm doing wrong anymore, I've spent a lot of money on my computer and am close to scrapping it.

A few grievances I'd like to share about my experience with Swiftech products
1. Swiftech Komodo waterblock with an XFX 7970 Black Edition (reference model)
When the Komodo waterblock was installed my computer would not boot at all, I thought my 7970 was a dud. To confirm it, I took it to work and tested all the surface mounts, ram, and PCB myself and found nothing wrong with the card. To my surprise, my computer even booted up with no waterblock installed on the 7970. Upon further investigation I found that the top screw on the Komodo waterblock when tightened hard enough would cause a short causing my pc to not boot with the 7970 installed. My card is listed as a compatible card on the Swiftech website.

2. Swiftech H220 Pump
When I first received my H220 I noticed one of the elbows on the pump a little looser than the other one, I ignored it and installed it anyway. Everything worked fine until I decided to expand the loop. After bleeding the loop outside the case I carefully began placing all the components inside the case. I laid the case down on a flat surface and began first putting in the radiator and then the pump, at this point the outlet elbow popped off spilling fluid all over my mobo and running down to the GPU. I drip dried my system and called Swiftech to RMA my pump, Brian did a great job at taking my request and understanding my problem and the RMA process went smoothly. When I received my new pump I began installing the system all over again paying extra attention to never stress the elbows, it turns out the new pump had a very loud motor even after completely removing any air in the system (The noise was the same as a YouTube video displaying an H220 pump that was about to die). Needless to say, the noise was louder than any of my fans and sign of a bad pump, I instead just removed the 2 screws that hold the elbow and installed it on my old pump that was working fine. I sent back the *refurbished* replacement pump back to Swiftech.

Overall,
Although Swiftech's customer service is some of the best I've seen, I cannot say the same about their quality control and engineering design process due to what I have experienced.


----------



## Scorpion667

Would the H220 pump handle being hooked up to a Nova 1080 60mm copper Radiator? 9x 120mm fans


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
> 34-36C
> on load
> 58-61C
> 
> Ambient Temps 24C


Those CPU temps are exactly what I'm seeing with the H220. I can't speak to the GPU temps, though, since I chose to install dedicated closed loop coolers (Zalman LQ320's) on each of my GPUs instead of expanding the H220 loop. As a result, my max GPU temps idle at about 28C and max out at about 45C! My solution was also MUCH cheaper than expanding the H220 loop -- it just doesn't look as cool...

Red Mod FTW!


----------



## MrStick89

Well my pump is dropping to 0rpm during load. Starting to regret buying this thing... considering that my 212+ would do [email protected] and my H220 does [email protected] My friend with identical setup running an H80i is getting same temps as well on identical overclock. Am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?

Fx8350
990fxa-ud3
Corsair 400r

Edit: got it to not drop to 0rpm by changing to voltage in the bios. But now it runs a constant 3k rpm.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Well my pump is dropping to 0rpm during load. Starting to regret buying this thing... considering that my 212+ would do [email protected] and my H220 does [email protected] My friend with identical setup running an H80i is getting same temps as well on identical overclock. Am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?
> 
> Fx8350
> 990fxa-ud3
> Corsair 400r


Your friend's H80i closed-loop is not expandable -- the H220 is. Maybe you didn't realize exactly what you were buying and what the benefits are?

As for the pump dropping, that's a legitimate issue that I'm sure Bryan and the others at Swiftech will be glad to help you out with.


----------



## IronForge

Has anyone had a newer H220 that was not part of the first batch, that has had pump problems?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Finally got control of my pump. Appears its either compatibility with my board or I have a defective PWM splitter. Plugged the pump only into the cpu header and disabled bios control, now I am able to control the pump speeds with speedfan. Still can't control the fans, my board has another pwm header for a separate channel. Connecting the two helix fans to the splitter, then the splitter to the other channel still causes the fans to run at full speed. Fans by themselves are able to be controlled without the splitter except both helix fans are pwm and I only have one pwm header free.


Send an email to [email protected] with your invoice for this kit and I'll send you out a replacement PWM splitter.


----------



## MrStick89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Your friend's H80i closed-loop is not expandable -- the H220 is. Maybe you didn't realize exactly what you were buying and what the benefits are?
> 
> As for the pump dropping, that's a legitimate issue that I'm sure Bryan and the others at Swiftech will be glad to help you out with.


I knew exactly what I was buying and that is why I waited patiently for an H220 to come in stock. I had just hoped for some better performance is all.

I was under the impression I can control the fans and pump separately using the splitter. Should I plug the pump into CPU_Fan and my splitter into sys_fan?


----------



## mb6079

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> usually no. Unless the backplate was somehow shorting against something on the motherboard. There's nothing other than the mounting mechanism and waterblock that touches the motherboard/cpu.


sorry i should have been clearer, what i mean is, if the pump were faulty, perhaps my mobo would prevent the system from booting in order to protect the cpu

there does seem to be more noise than i expected coming from the pump though, it is the constant sound of water either flowing or trying to flow. i opened the cap on the rad/res and it didnt seem at a low level at all


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Your friend's H80i closed-loop is not expandable -- the H220 is. Maybe you didn't realize exactly what you were buying and what the benefits are?
> 
> As for the pump dropping, that's a legitimate issue that I'm sure Bryan and the others at Swiftech will be glad to help you out with.
> 
> 
> 
> I knew exactly what I was buying and that is why I waited patiently for an H220 to come in stock. I had just hoped for some better performance is all.
> 
> I was under the impression I can control the fans and pump separately using the splitter. Should I plug the pump into CPU_Fan and my splitter into sys_fan?
Click to expand...

All of these coolers will come within 5C of each other and results only differ as a result of many other variables -- TIM, ambient temps, case temps, air flow in the case, types of fans used, etc.

This kit differentiates itself by having high performance results AND by being the cheapest "all-in-one expandable kit" on the market. IMO, it's the combination of those two things that make the price and hype reasonable. You apparently know that, though, so your question _"am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?"_ didn't make much sense to me...

EDIT: What fans do you have on the H220 radiator? How many? Are they set up as exhausts, or intakes? Where is the rad located in your case?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Well my pump is dropping to 0rpm during load. Starting to regret buying this thing... considering that my 212+ would do [email protected] and my H220 does [email protected] My friend with identical setup running an H80i is getting same temps as well on identical overclock. Am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?
> 
> Fx8350
> 990fxa-ud3
> Corsair 400r
> 
> Edit: got it to not drop to 0rpm by changing to voltage in the bios. But now it runs a constant 3k rpm.


Can you confirm that your CPU temps spike during the episodes when your RPMs drop to 0? I've recently had an issue with a customer complaining of the same issue and it turned out his motherboard was falsely reporting his RPMs because at no time did his CPU temps spike.


----------



## MrStick89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> All of these coolers will come within 5C of each other and results only differ as a result of many other variables -- TIM, ambient temps, case temps, air flow in the case, types of fans used, etc.
> 
> This kit differentiates itself by having high performance results AND by being the cheapest "all-in-one expandable kit" on the market. IMO, it's the combination of those two things that make the price and hype reasonable. You apparently know that, though, so your question _"am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?"_ didn't make much sense to me...
> 
> EDIT: What fans do you have on the H220 radiator? How many? Are they set up as exhausts, or intakes? Where is the rad located in your case?


Yes I understand this, I wasn't trying to bash the cooler. Maybe I was just the one "overhyped" after reading so much about these.

I am using the stock helix fans as exhaust on top of the radiator(pulling) which is fastened to the top of my 400R I also have an 80mm fan blowing on my VRMs since I wasn't getting enough air flow in that area without a CPU fan blowing. Would these be better pushing through the radiator? I'm not sure if I have room for push/pull without modifying my case unfortunately.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Yes I understand this, I wasn't trying to bash the cooler. Maybe I was just the one "overhyped" after reading so much about these.
> 
> I am using the stock helix fans as exhaust on top of the radiator(pulling) which is fastened to the top of my 400R I also have an 80mm fan blowing on my VRMs since I wasn't getting enough air flow in that area without a CPU fan blowing. Would these be better pushing through the radiator? I'm not sure if I have room for push/pull without modifying my case unfortunately.


You will get better performance with the fans pushing rather than pulling.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> I am using the stock helix fans as exhaust on top of the radiator(pulling) which is fastened to the top of my 400R I also have an 80mm fan blowing on my VRMs since I wasn't getting enough air flow in that area without a CPU fan blowing. Would these be better pushing through the radiator? I'm not sure if I have room for push/pull without modifying my case unfortunately.


First and foremost, YES, switch them to act as intakes to PUSH the outside air through the radiator! Remember, your goal is to cool the water in the loop, not the air inside the case.







In your current config, you're pulling hot air from inside the case through the radiator! Not good!

My setup involves 13 fans and 3 radiators. Of those, all of the rads are setup as intakes, and only ONE of the fans in the entire system is set up as an exhaust at the upper-rear of the case...


----------



## Ragsters

I know everyone is sick of me and others asking but any signs of H320?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You will get better performance with the fans pushing rather than pulling.


I just changed mine to push a few hours ago, saw no difference.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I know everyone is sick of me and others asking but any signs of H320?


It's probably going to be a few more months before it's released. Don't quote me on that though.


----------



## Zealon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's probably going to be a few more months before it's released. Don't quote me on that though.


Quoted. I hope to see more stuff from you guys because the H220 really holds itself quite well against other units out there plus this mounting system is so much less of a hassle than the other AIOs


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's probably going to be a few more months before it's released. Don't quote me on that though.


Didn,t you say mid June to the end of June just 2-3 weeks ago?? I asked the same question twice in the last 3 days and you never responded to me. Is the delay due to the preoccupation with pump issues??? If it is 3-4 months I will have to consider going to a custom loop. I can't possibly wait that much longer.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Didn,t you say mid June to the end of June just 2-3 weeks ago?? I asked the same question twice in the last 3 days and you never responded to me. Is the delay due to the preoccupation with pump issues??? If it is 3-4 months I will have to consider going to a custom loop. I can't possibly wait that much longer.


Yeah. "A few months is way too long"


----------



## justanoldman

You guys asking about the H320, are you planning to expand it at all? I ask because I am wondering why you wouldn’t just get the H220 and add a 320 to the loop like I did. You have room for a 320 rad but not another 220 somewhere?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You guys asking about the H320, are you planning to expand it at all? I ask because I am wondering why you wouldn't just get the H220 and add a 320 to the loop like I did. You have room for a 320 rad but not another 220 somewhere?


Maybe because I don't want to screw around with coolant and spills. I am interested in cooling only my cpu which is an AMD FX-8350. I plan on overclocking to 5.0 GHZ and a 240mm radiator is NOT going to be good enough to lower my temps enough to get there. I don't have room for both a 240mm radiator and a 360mm (not 320mm as you misstated) in my case it is one or the other. I think I have justified my needs now can you stop running resistance for Swiftech?
I find it rather annoying.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Maybe because I don't want to screw around with coolant and spills. I am interested in cooling only my cpu which is an AMD FX-8350. I plan on overclocking to 5.0 GHZ and a 240mm radiator is NOT going to be good enough to lower my temps enough to get there. I don't have room for both a 240mm radiator and a 360mm (not 320mm as you misstated) in my case it is one or the other. I think I have justified my needs now can you stop running resistance for Swiftech?
> I find it rather annoying.


It was a simple question. If someone buys the H220 it is usually to expand it or modify it some point. If someone has room for a 320 I figured they might have room for the 220 stock rad as well. You seem to be an angry person, most of your posts seem combative. Life is short, definitely not worth getting mad over anything computer related. Sorry if I upset you.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Maybe because I don't want to screw around with coolant and spills. I am interested in cooling only my cpu which is an AMD FX-8350. I plan on overclocking to 5.0 GHZ and a 240mm radiator is NOT going to be good enough to lower my temps enough to get there. I don't have room for both a 240mm radiator and a 360mm (not 320mm as you misstated) in my case it is one or the other. I think I have justified my needs now can you stop running resistance for Swiftech?
> I find it rather annoying.


Swiftech already has other kits with bigger rads, of course they are more money.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> It was a simple question. If someone buys the H220 it is usually to expand it or modify it some point. If someone has room for a 320 I figured they might have room for the 220 stock rad as well. You seem to be an angry person, most of your posts seem combative. Life is short, definitely not worth getting mad over anything computer related. Sorry if I upset you.


I had decided to edit those remarks out of the post but you responded before I had a chance.You have my apology. I have had a lot of adversity with my computer recently. My Corsair H100 leaked all over my $229 motherboard and destroyed it. Fortunately my cpu and video card were not destroyed as well. I am stuck on a lousy fan now because I don't have money to squander on temporary solutions until the H320 is released. I really do NOT relish all the maintenance and risks involved with custom loops. Spills are not uncommon and can be disastrous. leaks are not unknown either. I really wish Swiftech can get these qc/qa issues resolved quickly . I have been waiting on this forum since the end of February for the H320 even before the H220 release. So my patience is a little worn now. If it comes out soon and I have good experiences with it, I may someday expand it to my HD Radeon 7950 gpu but that is only a possibility.

Have a good day and a wonderful life . I have no enmity for you.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You guys asking about the H320, are you planning to expand it at all? I ask because I am wondering why you wouldn't just get the H220 and add a 320 to the loop like I did. You have room for a 320 rad but not another 220 somewhere?


I want to buy a 480 or 360 rad to add to the H320. I don't want to spend money on a 240 rad.


----------



## justanoldman

^No problem. I would not be happy with a leak either, that is for sure.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Swiftech already has other kits with bigger rads, of course they are more money.


The problem is they are NOT pre-filled, sealed units. I have nightmares abut spilling coolant or leaks. I have nightmares about barbs breaking and tubing not fitting properly. The more variables with my luck I will destroy another computer. I am retired and live off my pension and SS. No room for thousand dollar unexpected investments in computers anymore.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Setup:
> i5 3570k
> 7970 on a Swiftech Komodo Water block
> MSI Mpower Mobo
> Cooling:
> H220 pump
> Alpha Cool 280mm UT60 (Updated w/ Akasa Viper S flow Push/Pull in intake)
> H220 Radiator with stock helix fans in intake
> Thermal Paste:
> I ran out of Swiftech Tim that came with the H220. Since I was hoping this would be my last modification of my watercooling set up I went ahead and bought a single use Indigo Xtreme (http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/)
> 
> Old temps on Idle for both CPU and GPU
> 38-41C
> on Load
> 60-63
> 
> New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
> 34-36C
> on load
> 58-61C
> 
> Ambient Temps 24C
> 
> Do these temps seem right to anyone? I've seen various watercooling setups from firends and online and they all outright destroy the temperatures I am receiving. My XFX 7970 gets about the same temps as the stock fan and my 3570k is on par with my old Hyper 212+. Prior to expanding the loop my stock H220 on idle was getting 24-29C, load has remained the same. I do not know what I'm doing wrong anymore, I've spent a lot of money on my computer and am close to scrapping it.
> 
> A few grievances I'd like to share about my experience with Swiftech products
> 1. Swiftech Komodo waterblock with an XFX 7970 Black Edition (reference model)
> When the Komodo waterblock was installed my computer would not boot at all, I thought my 7970 was a dud. To confirm it, I took it to work and tested all the surface mounts, ram, and PCB myself and found nothing wrong with the card. To my surprise, my computer even booted up with no waterblock installed on the 7970. Upon further investigation I found that the top screw on the Komodo waterblock when tightened hard enough would cause a short causing my pc to not boot with the 7970 installed. My card is listed as a compatible card on the Swiftech website.


Your temps are very off to me. We just put a Diamond 7970 and I7 3770K in a HAF with just the H220 and even with the GPU @ 1125mhz it is much cooler than your current setup. I would question your fan setup and check to make sure the pump is even running. He idles in the mid to low 20s with 23C ambient and his high while in Unique Heaven was 46-48C. The radiator is mounted to the top of a HAF 932 with the fans set to intake. He does have (7) 120mm fans in the case, but his temps changed little with the (4) door fans turned off. We used Real Temp, GPU-Z, and Afterburner to monitor at different times.

I m curious what your VRM temperatures look like?

As far as the GPU block and XFX having issues, I d question XFX. They are known for doing small revisions and their track record has just made me steer away all together.


----------



## justanoldman

Thanks guys, those answers make a lot of sense for the H320.
Speaking of the 480 + 360 (I tend to write 220 and 320 since that is how Swiftech labels their rads) I wonder how much rad space the pump can handle efficiently. I have a Swiftech 220+320+140 without issues, but I wonder where the max is.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> ^No problem. I would not be happy with a leak either, that is for sure.


From my own experience, if you test everything for leaks prior to putting power to everything, there is very little chance that you'll develop a leak after that. I've been water cooling my personal system and have built several water cooled systems for others with only one incident of a leak. It turned to be entirely my fault for not tightening down a fitting properly. I foolishly neglected to leak test everything prior to powering everything on and despite the amount of fluid that ran down my motherboard, video card and into my power supply, nothing was damaged. I eventually had to replace the power supply because I would get random shut downs about once or twice a week. After replacing the power supply everything worked fine. There is very little risks of leaks or the resulting damage from leaks so long as you take the necessary precautions.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Your temps are very off to me. We just put a Diamond 7970 and I7 3770K in a HAF with just the H220 and even with the GPU @ 1125mhz it is much cooler than your current setup. I would question your fan setup and check to make sure the pump is even running. He idles in the mid to low 20s with 23C ambient and his high while in Unique Heaven was 46-48C. The radiator is mounted to the top of a HAF 932 with the fans set to intake. He does have (7) 120mm fans in the case, but his temps changed little with the (4) door fans turned off. We used Real Temp, GPU-Z, and Afterburner to monitor at different times.
> 
> I m curious what your VRM temperatures look like?
> 
> As far as the GPU block and XFX having issues, I d question XFX. They are known for doing small revisions and their track record has just made me steer away all together.


If his pump wasn't running he would see his load temps skyrocket into the 90s or above. I'm guessing it has something to do with the way his fans are configured and the air flow in his case. His ambient temperatures should allow this kit to function at pretty optimal levels, so long as everything is configured properly to take full advantage of it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The problem is they are NOT pre-filled, sealed units. I have nightmares abut spilling coolant or leaks. I have nightmares about barbs breaking and tubing not fitting properly. The more variables with my luck I will destroy another computer. I am retired and live off my pension and SS. No room for thousand dollar unexpected investments in computers anymore.


I had a feeling you were going to say that. Yes they are not pre-filled, but then again, they have the advantage of being available now. They are most likely better units, so something to consider since you are adamant about needing better temps to reach 5.0.


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Your temps are very off to me. We just put a Diamond 7970 and I7 3770K in a HAF with just the H220 and even with the GPU @ 1125mhz it is much cooler than your current setup. I would question your fan setup and check to make sure the pump is even running. He idles in the mid to low 20s with 23C ambient and his high while in Unique Heaven was 46-48C. The radiator is mounted to the top of a HAF 932 with the fans set to intake. He does have (7) 120mm fans in the case, but his temps changed little with the (4) door fans turned off. We used Real Temp, GPU-Z, and Afterburner to monitor at different times.
> 
> I m curious what your VRM temperatures look like?
> 
> As far as the GPU block and XFX having issues, I d question XFX. They are known for doing small revisions and their track record has just made me steer away all together.


Just ran Uningine Valley Benchmark and VRM temps peaked at 52C and core temps actually went all the way to 65C









in terms of fans I have (7). My 280mm radiator has (4) 140mm Akasa S flow and the Swiftech radiator has the 2 Helix fans it came with. All fans are in intake, Swiftech rad fans are in push.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Just ran Uningine Valley Benchmark and VRM temps peaked at 52C and core temps actually went all the way to 65C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in terms of fans I have (7). My 280mm radiator has (4) 140mm Akasa S flow and the Swiftech radiator has the 2 Helix fans it came with. All fans are in intake, Swiftech rad fans are in push.


You don't have any exhaust fans?


----------



## GioV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> I followed the advice on this forum and modified my system to achieve the best temps, I cannot post any updated pictures pictures now since I am at work.
> 
> *This picture is prior to my modifications (Changes include- New Akasa fans in P/P, New Tim, REMOVAL of bottom 120mm Koolance 30fpi radiator)
> 
> Setup:
> i5 3570k
> 7970 on a Swiftech Komodo Water block
> MSI Mpower Mobo
> Cooling:
> H220 pump
> Alpha Cool 280mm UT60 (Updated w/ Akasa Viper S flow Push/Pull in intake)
> H220 Radiator with stock helix fans in intake
> Thermal Paste:
> I ran out of Swiftech Tim that came with the H220. Since I was hoping this would be my last modification of my watercooling set up I went ahead and bought a single use Indigo Xtreme (http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/)
> 
> Old temps on Idle for both CPU and GPU
> 38-41C
> on Load
> 60-63
> 
> New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
> 34-36C
> on load
> 58-61C
> 
> Ambient Temps 24C
> 
> Do these temps seem right to anyone? I've seen various watercooling setups from firends and online and they all outright destroy the temperatures I am receiving. My XFX 7970 gets about the same temps as the stock fan and my 3570k is on par with my old Hyper 212+. Prior to expanding the loop my stock H220 on idle was getting 24-29C, load has remained the same. I do not know what I'm doing wrong anymore, I've spent a lot of money on my computer and am close to scrapping it.
> 
> A few grievances I'd like to share about my experience with Swiftech products
> 1. Swiftech Komodo waterblock with an XFX 7970 Black Edition (reference model)
> When the Komodo waterblock was installed my computer would not boot at all, I thought my 7970 was a dud. To confirm it, I took it to work and tested all the surface mounts, ram, and PCB myself and found nothing wrong with the card. To my surprise, my computer even booted up with no waterblock installed on the 7970. Upon further investigation I found that the top screw on the Komodo waterblock when tightened hard enough would cause a short causing my pc to not boot with the 7970 installed. My card is listed as a compatible card on the Swiftech website.
> 
> 2. Swiftech H220 Pump
> When I first received my H220 I noticed one of the elbows on the pump a little looser than the other one, I ignored it and installed it anyway. Everything worked fine until I decided to expand the loop. After bleeding the loop outside the case I carefully began placing all the components inside the case. I laid the case down on a flat surface and began first putting in the radiator and then the pump, at this point the outlet elbow popped off spilling fluid all over my mobo and running down to the GPU. I drip dried my system and called Swiftech to RMA my pump, Brian did a great job at taking my request and understanding my problem and the RMA process went smoothly. When I received my new pump I began installing the system all over again paying extra attention to never stress the elbows, it turns out the new pump had a very loud motor even after completely removing any air in the system (The noise was the same as a YouTube video displaying an H220 pump that was about to die). Needless to say, the noise was louder than any of my fans and sign of a bad pump, I instead just removed the 2 screws that hold the elbow and installed it on my old pump that was working fine. I sent back the *refurbished* replacement pump back to Swiftech.
> 
> Overall,
> Although Swiftech's customer service is some of the best I've seen, I cannot say the same about their quality control and engineering design process due to what I have experienced.


Here is my updated rig


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> It was a simple question. If someone buys the H220 it is usually to expand it or modify it some point. If someone has room for a 320 I figured they might have room for the 220 stock rad as well. You seem to be an angry person, most of your posts seem combative. Life is short, definitely not worth getting mad over anything computer related. Sorry if I upset you.


agreed....this guy should move on.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Here is my updated rig


Good looking rig. Which part was shorting out and where? If it was along the backplate, keep in mind that the card manufacturer could have accidentally left a longer capacitor lead or other somewhere, which could cause problems with an aluminum backplate. Either way, an over-torqued screw is often a troublemaker with any piece, and has a lot less to do with QC. Sorry to hear about the pump though.

If you're getting bad temps conpared to preciously, amd you know that you know that you know the loop is air-free, I would say there's probably a bad mount on either the cpu gpu or both.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config

Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this

i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo


----------



## Mattb2e

If one were to install the H220 radiator at the top of a case with the reservoir cap facing down, would this create any issues vs. having the reservoir cap facing up? Also, how much pump noise is normal at 100% pump speed?


----------



## IronForge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my own experience, if you test everything for leaks prior to putting power to everything, there is very little chance that you'll develop a leak after that. I've been water cooling my personal system and have built several water cooled systems for others with only one incident of a leak. It turned to be entirely my fault for not tightening down a fitting properly. I foolishly neglected to leak test everything prior to powering everything on and despite the amount of fluid that ran down my motherboard, video card and into my power supply, nothing was damaged. I eventually had to replace the power supply because I would get random shut downs about once or twice a week. After replacing the power supply everything worked fine. There is very little risks of leaks or the resulting damage from leaks so long as you take the necessary precautions.


Is there leak testing instructions included with the H220? Is that a normal step we should expect? I have one ordered but have not received it yet. Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> If one were to install the H220 radiator at the top of a case with the reservoir cap facing down, would this create any issues vs. having the reservoir cap facing up? Also, how much pump noise is normal at 100% pump speed?


Ideally you want the resercoir pointing upward. If it doesn't you will have no reservoir in the loop, and even if it's 100% filled, over time evaporation through the tubes will take place and you'll end up with air bubbles causing excess heat in your loop, and could create a pump failure if the bubble is in the pump long enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config
> 
> Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this
> 
> i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GioV*
> 
> Here is my updated rig


Looks nice and clean. I see in other post you had, the temps was lower. Which is still better.

What you can try is to have a bit more exhaust. Take the H220 go with exhaust and add a bottom fan for intake.
You can try to do Push/Pull on H220, as you have room to do so.

Experiment is the best way. Constant tinkering is what happens.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config
> 
> Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this
> 
> i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo


Delidding is the only way to get measurably good temps with Ivy. With using CLU on the die most people get 15 to 20c better. I did both mine and recommend it to anyone who can afford a new chip should an accident happen.

You have a decent, average chip with 4.5 and 1.25v, so I would say it is worth delidding. Those with above average voltage requirements may not want to bother, but I don't see why you wouldn't do yours based on those numbers.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronForge*
> 
> Is there leak testing instructions included with the H220? Is that a normal step we should expect? I have one ordered but have not received it yet. Thanks.


I was referring to custom water cooling. Sorry for any confusion. No, the H220s are all checked for leaks at the factory prior to being shipped. Trust me, if there were an issue with these kits leaking, this forum would have posts containing such issues.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Ideally you want the reservoir pointing upward. If it doesn't you will have no reservoir in the loop, and even if it's 100% filled, over time evaporation through the tubes will take place and you'll end up with air bubbles causing excess heat in your loop, and could create a pump failure if the bubble is in the pump long enough.


Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?


well, if you let it evaporate to a point where there is a good amount of air in the system. That could take months if not years to happen.


----------



## MrStick89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Maybe because I don't want to screw around with coolant and spills. I am interested in cooling only my cpu which is an AMD FX-8350. I plan on overclocking to 5.0 GHZ and a 240mm radiator is NOT going to be good enough to lower my temps enough to get there. I don't have room for both a 240mm radiator and a 360mm (not 320mm as you misstated) in my case it is one or the other. I think I have justified my needs now can you stop running resistance for Swiftech?
> I find it rather annoying.


You can hit 5ghz on an H220. My specific chip is nothing special in terms of OC ability and my mobo uses offset voltage so its tough to keep volts low. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?


I tried flipping my radiator so the fill port was facing down and could not get it the air bubbles out. Pump constantly made a wooshing/waterfall sound even after shaking it tilting it etc.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Delidding is the only way to get measurably good temps with Ivy. With using CLU on the die most people get 15 to 20c better. I did both mine and recommend it to anyone who can afford a new chip should an accident happen.
> 
> You have a decent, average chip with 4.5 and 1.25v, so I would say it is worth delidding. Those with above average voltage requirements may not want to bother, but I don't see why you wouldn't do yours based on those numbers.


This,
I think 90% of people have their chips working with the razor method, that is what I did and I feel that it is a lot safer then the hammer method, it just doesn't look safe. If you take your time and have a stead hand de-lidding is easy, 1.25v is pretty good for 4.5GHz, but at any rate it is worth de-lidding an Ivy Bridge just because it will last longer and clock a lot higher. Well anyone with something like a H200, H100i. etc.

I had the exact same problem going from a Hyper 212+ in P/P, I spent $100 on a ThermalRight SB-E and the temps were like 3c lower at most. I then de-lidded to see an instant 25c drop in temps! I can now run 4.6 @ 1.46v or so (75c tops, 60-65c on water), before I could run 4.4 max at 1.420v and get 90c easily on a cooler day. It is just amazing what de-lidding can do.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I could run 4.4 max at 1.420v and get 90c easily on a cooler day. It is just amazing what de-lidding can do.


What chip is this? Makes me feel better about my 3570k 4.4 at 1.21v...


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> What chip is this? Makes me feel better about my 3570k 4.4 at 1.21v...


3570k, one of the first batches. 1.21v is amazing!


----------



## Tikiman

Martinm210 - I sent an email to Swiftech about the bleed screw that you spoke of & this is what Bryan sent back to me:

"That screw is for factory filling purposes and isn't supposed to be used by the customer at all. I hope this answers your question and thank you for your interest in our products."

Might want to find out if messing with that screw voids the warranty before telling people to start disassembling the pump. Not trying to be a dick. Just sayin'.


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> 3570k, one of the first batches. 1.21v is amazing!


My 3570K would run 4.4 @ 1.16 volts. To go to 4.5 required a push into the mid 1.2 volt range. I'm at 4.8 with 1.36 volts now.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> My 3570K would run 4.4 @ 1.16 volts. To go to 4.5 required a push into the mid 1.2 volt range. I'm at 4.8 with 1.36 volts now.


Golden 3570k? :/
I spent heaps on my water loop, the orignal idea was to watercool the two 7950's and throw the CPU in there while I was at it.. Next minute the 7950 blocks don't fit properly and I just wasted $400-$500 on watercooling my CPU with a massive amount of RAD space and an insane pump..


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Golden 3570k? :/
> I spent heaps on my water loop, the orignal idea was to watercool the two 7950's and throw the CPU in there while I was at it.. Next minute the 7950 blocks don't fit properly and I just wasted $400-$500 on watercooling my CPU with a massive amount of RAD space and an insane pump..


Ouch.... What did you do with the 7950s?


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Just picked up a H220 for a revamp of my current set-up (new PSU, GPU's, Case and cooling). I am excite.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> Martinm210 - I sent an email to Swiftech about the bleed screw that you spoke of & this is what Bryan sent back to me:
> 
> "That screw is for factory filling purposes and isn't supposed to be used by the customer at all. I hope this answers your question and thank you for your interest in our products."
> 
> Might want to find out if messing with that screw voids the warranty before telling people to start disassembling the pump. Not trying to be a dick. Just sayin'.


The warranty is not void if you take apart. You still get the 3 years. That is the whole point of the H220.
Only part thats going is the maintenance free, its been opened.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> Martinm210 - I sent an email to Swiftech about the bleed screw that you spoke of & this is what Bryan sent back to me:
> 
> "That screw is for factory filling purposes and isn't supposed to be used by the customer at all. I hope this answers your question and thank you for your interest in our products."
> 
> Might want to find out if messing with that screw voids the warranty before telling people to start disassembling the pump. Not trying to be a dick. Just sayin'.


Okey Dokey. Not sure what else to suggest when it isn't capable of self bleeding an expanded loop. My recommendation in DIY watercooling is to design a loop to maintain at least 1.0 GPM. This ensures there is more than adequate pumping power and flow rate to flush air out on it's own. The H220 is at best going to push 0.6GPM so with complex loops you will be required to get a little creative and help things along. This means doing the twister and doing wahatever you can to physically help prime and get air out of the loop.

I guess if you can't get an expanded loop to prime and fill you should submit an RMA?

Take any advice and use common sense, it's not rocket science. It's a pump than needs to have water in the volute to work. Just sayin..


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> My 3570K would run 4.4 @ 1.16 volts. To go to 4.5 required a push into the mid 1.2 volt range. I'm at 4.8 with 1.36 volts now.


My 3570k is at 4.8 at 1.30, I tried 5.0, it took 1.45, temps got too high for my liking.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> My 3570k is at 4.8 at 1.30, I tried 5.0, it took 1.45, temps got too high for my liking.


I have to push mine to 1.28v or so for 4.5 it crashes hard at 1.25v, but the temps were too high for me, 85c on a p95 blend; though my ambient was near 30c at the time. I think I'll delid my chip once Haswell drops, it's not a big enough improvement that it will kill the market for Z77 hardware so I should be able to unload my Z77X-UD5H.


----------



## mesasone

Not enough hardware porn in here lately, maybe I should add a little:



Excuse the poor quality, my Nexus 4 is all I have available at the moment, and it's a cold, rainy day outside so not much light available








. Also, forgive that disaster that is my kitchen table









I intend on adding another 240mm rad in the front, and some custom lighting + cabling in the near future.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The warranty is not void if you take apart. You still get the 3 years. That is the whole point of the H220.
> Only part thats going is the maintenance free, its been opened.


Incorrect. If you take it apart, warranty goes down to 1 year.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Incorrect. If you take it apart, warranty goes down to 1 year.


Who told you that?
Defeats the purpose of the H220 if a year or two down the road you want to expand it.
It is still 3 years, sealed or taken apart.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys, is normal this?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys, is normal this?


Is the pump plugged into the red slot on the PWM splitter, or directly to the fan header? If it's not it won't report RPM to the motherboard.


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys, is normal this?


No, not if you're plugged into a 4 pin header. I have the same issue and I'm going to contact swiftech to see if it warrants replacement. Kind of annoying to have the pump at 100% all the time.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> No, not if you're plugged into a 4 pin header. I have the same issue and I'm going to contact swiftech to see if it warrants replacement. Kind of annoying to have the pump at 100% all the time.


Make sure that in the bios you have it set to monitor the CPU header and to disable the min fan speed.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Who told you that?
> Defeats the purpose of the H220 if a year or two down the road you want to expand it.
> It is still 3 years, sealed or taken apart.


Most certainly would not defeat the purpose of the H220.. show me another AIO cooler that would still warranty the parts if you took it all apart and made it your own.

I'm pretty sure it's a 3 year warranty for the cooler if left at stock, 1 year if you take if apart and make your own loop (much like the rest of their standalone water cooling products)


----------



## dsmwookie

Just wanted to say thank you to all those that helped with the problem. I got the wife's rig up and going with the H220, 7950, and a Heatkiller Universal block. Temps look good right now and Ill be monitoring and VRMs.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Most certainly would not defeat the purpose of the H220.. show me another AIO cooler that would still warranty the parts if you took it all apart and made it your own.
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's a 3 year warranty for the cooler if left at stock, 1 year if you take if apart and make your own loop (much like the rest of their standalone water cooling products)


You still didnt say who told you that its not 3 years after taking it apart.
Warranty does not change once taken apart. There is not other AIO to compare too, this is different than custom offering.
Dont guess, it's full 3 years complete or taken apart. That is the warranty.

Its covered, and done. Topic over. Thank you.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's a 3 year warranty for the cooler if left at stock, 1 year if you take if apart and make your own loop (much like the rest of their standalone water cooling products)


I can't find any mention of a reduced warranty on Swiftechs website or in any of the documentation included with my H220. Obviously once you take the unit apart the warranty applies only to the included parts, but it would make little sense to reduce the warranty period on the radiator and pump/block. Any defect in the radiator caused by the user would be easily identifiable, and I would assume the same goes for the pump/block.


----------



## TheGovernment

It's not, it's 3 years no matter what you do to it,


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesasone*
> 
> Not enough hardware porn in here lately, maybe I should add a little:
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the poor quality, my Nexus 4 is all I have available at the moment, and it's a cold, rainy day outside so not much light available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also, forgive that disaster that is my kitchen table
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I intend on adding another 240mm rad in the front, and some custom lighting + cabling in the near future.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Just wanted to say thank you to all those that helped with the problem. I got the wife's rig up and going with the H220, 7950, and a Heatkiller Universal block. Temps look good right now and Ill be monitoring and VRMs.


What temps are you both getting with this setup?


----------



## dsmwookie

I ve done two H220s one with a 3770K/7970 and one with a 8320/7950

3770K machine idled at 21-23C on the CPU and stayed around 44-46C under load with a slight oveclock on the GPU.

8320 - 25C idle and I haven't had a chance to load it up yet.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> Ouch.... What did you do with the 7950s?


Still got them, one has a broken fan atm so I've gotta fix that (they won't replace it because it still works technically)
I returned the blocks and I'm getting 1.5x cash back.. Kind of annoyed but oh well. It's not so bad.

Going to run 2x 120mm fans on the broken card and see how that goes, if it's decent I'll probably get some decent fans for both cards


----------



## michael-ocn

Any opinions here about how the Coolermaster Eisberg 240L stacks up against Swiftech's H220? It looks similar in spirit... higher capacity pump, a cooper rad, and expandable.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Any opinions here about how the Coolermaster Eisberg 240L stacks up against Swiftech's H220? It looks similar in spirit... higher capacity pump, a cooper rad, and expandable.


seem to perform about the same but the eisberg carries something like a $30 premium. Maybe more reliable?

Eisberg also uses non standard tubing and fittings. Replacing them with standard fittings and tubing of your choosing also only adds to the cost.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Got my h220 today and what A pain to put in a 600t with a z77 sabertooth. the 8 pin is right in the way and I really had to wedge it in there.
> Little curious about the cure time of this tim from swiftech. I fired it up and ran ibt to see right off the bat and max temp on any core running 4.5
> was 75 so I am cool with that. I do love how silent this thing is


Hey Navit,
I just ordered my h220 today and I have the same setup as you. Are you able to do Push/Pull with the h220? Are the rams in the way? Please let me know.
Thanks.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> Hey Navit,
> I just ordered my h220 today and I have the same setup as you. Are you able to do Push/Pull with the h220? Are the rams in the way? Please let me know.
> Thanks.


unless you zip tie fans or mod the case, it's pretty much impossible to do push pull in a 600t with any dual 120mm cooler.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> Hey Navit,
> I just ordered my h220 today and I have the same setup as you. Are you able to do Push/Pull with the h220? Are the rams in the way? Please let me know.
> Thanks.


You won't be able to do a p/p with the 600t. Also be careful with the 8pin on the sabertooth, its going to feel in the way but it will fit. I have 4 sticks of ram in mine and while its very close to them it fits just fine.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Any opinions here about how the Coolermaster Eisberg 240L stacks up against Swiftech's H220? It looks similar in spirit... higher capacity pump, a cooper rad, and expandable.


Interesting, I submitted a product review request. If they bite, I will do a full comparison..









Price tag is a little higher but if the pump is more reliable and it performs well, it might be a really good alternative. The guru3D review looks promising although they did not compare directly to the H220. I like the idea of a copper rad vs brass and the pump mounted reservior may be a little easier to prime than the rad mounted res. Also no issue with inverting the radiator. Pump is not PWM though so hopefully it is silent enough for low speed. I don't care for the smaller coil wrapped tubing but if those fittings are G1/4 compatible you could replace with any tubing size and fittings. I also like the cold plate design. Generally looks really good but it is a little higher priced. My question is how is performance/noise and pump reliability? Warranty is 2 years which isn't bad. Not as good as the H220 3 year warranty, but the pump is rated for 50K hour MTBF which is really good. Guru3d noted some concern with noise but they didn't compare noise/performance ratios so it's hard to tell much by that.

Looks promising. I hope I get a chance to review and report back..


----------



## justanoldman

Noise would be my biggest problem with the 240L. I setup my rigs with the main purpose of being able to oc everything, but keep them very quiet. Someone would have to do a test with the H220 and 240L using the same fans at <1000rpm and see how the cooling and noise compares.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Interesting, I submitted a product review request. If they bite, I will do a full comparison..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Price tag is a little higher but if the pump is more reliable and it performs well, it might be a really good alternative. The guru3D review looks promising although they did not compare directly to the H220. I like the idea of a copper rad vs brass and the pump mounted reservior may be a little easier to prime than the rad mounted res. Also no issue with inverting the radiator. Pump is not PWM though so hopefully it is silent enough for low speed. I don't care for the smaller coil wrapped tubing but if those fittings are G1/4 compatible you could replace with any tubing size and fittings. I also like the cold plate design. Generally looks really good but it is a little higher priced. My question is how is performance/noise and pump reliability? Warranty is 2 years which isn't bad. Not as good as the H220 3 year warranty, but the pump is rated for 50K hour MTBF which is really good. Guru3d noted some concern with noise but they didn't compare noise/performance ratios so it's hard to tell much by that.
> 
> Looks promising. I hope I get a chance to review and report back..


That would be most excellent! I hope they send a unit your way, because your reviews are fantastic!

Since the pump is not a PWM device, I guess the intent is to run it at a constant speed or maybe control it via voltage regulation.


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> This,
> I think 90% of people have their chips working with the razor method, that is what I did and I feel that it is a lot safer then the hammer method, it just doesn't look safe. If you take your time and have a stead hand de-lidding is easy, 1.25v is pretty good for 4.5GHz, but at any rate it is worth de-lidding an Ivy Bridge just because it will last longer and clock a lot higher. Well anyone with something like a H200, H100i. etc.
> 
> I had the exact same problem going from a Hyper 212+ in P/P, I spent $100 on a ThermalRight SB-E and the temps were like 3c lower at most. I then de-lidded to see an instant 25c drop in temps! I can now run 4.6 @ 1.46v or so (75c tops, 60-65c on water), before I could run 4.4 max at 1.420v and get 90c easily on a cooler day. It is just amazing what de-lidding can do.


The hammer method looks scary, but it is 100 times easier and safer than the razor method. I can delid an IB chip in less than 15 seconds using the hammer method and I have yet to destroy or damage a chip.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Interesting, I submitted a product review request. If they bite, I will do a full comparison..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Price tag is a little higher but if the pump is more reliable and it performs well, it might be a really good alternative. The guru3D review looks promising although they did not compare directly to the H220. I like the idea of a copper rad vs brass and the pump mounted reservior may be a little easier to prime than the rad mounted res. Also no issue with inverting the radiator. Pump is not PWM though so hopefully it is silent enough for low speed. I don't care for the smaller coil wrapped tubing but if those fittings are G1/4 compatible you could replace with any tubing size and fittings. I also like the cold plate design. Generally looks really good but it is a little higher priced. My question is how is performance/noise and pump reliability? Warranty is 2 years which isn't bad. Not as good as the H220 3 year warranty, but the pump is rated for 50K hour MTBF which is really good. Guru3d noted some concern with noise but they didn't compare noise/performance ratios so it's hard to tell much by that.
> 
> Looks promising. I hope I get a chance to review and report back..


I hope you do get to review it! My concern currently with the h220 is the reliability. After reading people comments who are on their 3rd pump it becomes more a of a hassle.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> The hammer method looks scary, but it is 100 times easier and safer than the razor method. I can delid an IB chip in less than 15 seconds using the hammer method and I have yet to destroy or damage a chip.


The only risks with the hammer method are in the preparation, clamping force applied or not aligning it properly. With the razor method you have a number of concerns, blade alignment, static, maintaining a steady hand, and depth of blade insertion. I can go to Harbor Fright and get a cheap drill press vice for under $20. In my opinion, after watching videos of both methods, 4 hits with a hammer beats 10+ minutes with a razor blade and the risk of damaging the PCB, the DIE, or yourself with the blade.

The real question for me is direct die, or replace the IHS. But I can't imagine there's much of a difference in temperatures.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The only risks with the hammer method are in the preparation, clamping force applied or not aligning it properly. With the razor method you have a number of concerns, blade alignment, static, maintaining a steady hand, and depth of blade insertion. I can go to Harbor Fright and get a cheap drill press vice for under $20. In my opinion, after watching videos of both methods, 4 hits with a hammer beats 10+ minutes with a razor blade and the risk of damaging the PCB, the DIE, or yourself with the blade.
> 
> The real question for me is direct die, or replace the IHS. But I can't imagine there's much of a difference in temperatures.


Not properly preparing, being impatient, and using the wrong tools are why people have failed at both methods. Hammer/vise/block of wood seems less prone to errors though.

Direct die is being done by a few people around here. Completely depends on your setup but you would get 3 to 7c better I think. The key is getting just the right amount of pressure. Too little and it will not boot, too much and it won't boot as well as possibly damaging the chip.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I know everyone is sick of me and others asking but any signs of H320?


Sorry man.. I have the 320 rads in stock, we just have to build them as kits.. We dedicated the entire Month of May catching up with the back-orders that we accumulated while the factory was being setup.. This move cost us 6 weeks of production (ouch)... and I had to bring April & May shipments by air..

I have released instruction to team to start building the 320's up next. But by the time they ship (Ocean), you won't see them in volume on the streets until July. I'm going to go ahead and bring a few by air to satisfy the most urgent though. It'll be limited quantity since air freight cost a crazy 25%!


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Sorry man.. I have the 320 rads in stock, we just have to build them as kits.. We dedicated the entire Month of May catching up with the back-orders that we accumulated while the factory was being setup.. This move cost us 6 weeks of production (ouch)... and I had to bring April & May shipments by air..
> 
> I have released instruction to team to start building the 320's up next. But by the time they ship (Ocean), you won't see them in volume on the streets until July. I'm going to go ahead and bring a few by air to satisfy the most urgent though. It'll be limited quantity since air freight cost a crazy 25%!


Sounds good. I just want your reassurance that the current pump issues will be resolved before the H320 ships. I have been very patient, but I really don't want the RMA issues. Thank you Gabe for keeping us in the loop. Also let me know about the air freighted H320 also. I would appreciate that. .


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Sorry man.. I have the 320 rads in stock, we just have to build them as kits.. We dedicated the entire Month of May catching up with the back-orders that we accumulated while the factory was being setup.. This move cost us 6 weeks of production (ouch)... and I had to bring April & May shipments by air..
> 
> I have released instruction to team to start building the 320's up next. But by the time they ship (Ocean), you won't see them in volume on the streets until July. I'm going to go ahead and bring a few by air to satisfy the most urgent though. It'll be limited quantity since air freight cost a crazy 25%!


Thanks Gabe for responding to my post. July is not too bad. I just hope its in the beginning of July








Anyway how can we know if and when you have them available. If you ship some by air will you inform us (me specifically







)?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Sounds good. I just want your reassurance that the current pump issues will be resolved before the H320 ships. I have been very patient, but I really don't want the RMA issues. Thank you Gabe for keeping us in the loop. Also let me know about the air freighted H320 also. I would appreciate that. .


I can assure you that the issues that caused some problems with our pumps have been resolved. The coolant is now filtered and our filling process has also been improved. The few issues that may have been the result of electrical problems are being removed via our strict QC controls. The units that shipped to resellers recently have already demonstrated a drastic reduction in issues and resulting RMAs.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Sounds good. I just want your reassurance that the current pump issues will be resolved before the H320 ships. I have been very patient, but I really don't want the RMA issues. Thank you Gabe for keeping us in the loop.


I take the opportunity of your post to answer the "pump issues" question.

In order to accurately assess a situation, it was important for me to have sufficient time elapsed.

Everybody knows we've had an issue with debris and coolant pollution in the first batch that hit the streets in March; 9 out of 10 of the kits that came back exhibited this issue.

We obviously took drastic steps after that to correct the problem.

The Results?

We are now at end of May and the return rate for the second batch of shipments that hit the streets in April has dropped a whopping 85% from March: we are now in the triple digits total units shipped, and I counted a dozen RMA's from the April shipments.. Not good, but not too bad either.. This is clear evidence to me that our process is substantially improving. Being as it may, we do continue to watch every single RMA like hawks and I feel comfortable saying that our zero defect policy is starting to pay off.

Have a a good Memorial Day you guys, and happy barbecuing 

Gabe


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The key is getting just the right amount of pressure. Too little and it will not boot, too much and it won't boot as well as possibly damaging the chip.


The H220 is designed to prevent over torquing, so it may be best to keep the IHS on. Either way it looks like the worst case with a delid is a 10c drop, best case being around a 30c drop...well worth it.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> The H220 is designed to prevent over torquing, so it may be best to keep the IHS on. Either way it looks like the worst case with a delid is a 10c drop, best case being around a 30c drop...well worth it.


Much easier to keep the IHS on, that is for sure. Some people want to try though. I am not aware of anyone doing it with an H220 yet. You have to remove the clamping mechanism from your mobo, then you would have to figure exactly how to alter/adjust the H220 mounting screws so they would go down far enough.

Just my opinion for Gabe and co., but since Haswell may need delidding too, maybe Swiftech could look into something like EK where they came out with a naked Ivy mounting kit.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I take the opportunity of your post to answer the "pump issues" question.
> 
> In order to accurately assess a situation, it was important for me to have sufficient time elapsed.
> 
> Everybody knows we've had an issue with debris and coolant pollution in the first batch that hit the streets in March; 9 out of 10 of the kits that came back exhibited this issue.
> 
> We obviously took drastic steps after that to correct the problem.
> 
> The Results?
> 
> We are now at end of May and the return rate for the second batch of shipments that hit the streets in April has dropped a whopping 85% from March: we are now in the triple digits total units shipped, and I counted a dozen RMA's from the April shipments.. Not good, but not too bad either.. This is clear evidence to me that our process is substantially improving. Being as it may, we do continue to watch every single RMA like hawks and I feel comfortable saying that our zero defect policy is starting to pay off.
> 
> Have a a good Memorial Day you guys, and happy barbecuing
> 
> Gabe


Thank you. I was specifically referring to the issue that has been mentioned in the past week. I thought that was something different than debris. I am also happy to hear that the qc is improving the situation drastically. Honestly today I was checking the web about the Cooler Master 240L Prestige.There seem to be pump issues with that product also. I'll stick with you guys because of your commitment to the customer ,as well as they don't have a product that ships with a 360mm radiator.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I ve done two H220s one with a 3770K/7970 and one with a 8320/7950
> 
> 3770K machine idled at 21-23C on the CPU and stayed around 44-46C under load with a slight oveclock on the GPU.
> 
> 8320 - 25C idle and I haven't had a chance to load it up yet.


Is the 3770K machine have the 7970 under load too or just the CPU?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I take the opportunity of your post to answer the "pump issues" question.
> 
> In order to accurately assess a situation, it was important for me to have sufficient time elapsed.
> 
> Everybody knows we've had an issue with debris and coolant pollution in the first batch that hit the streets in March; 9 out of 10 of the kits that came back exhibited this issue.
> 
> We obviously took drastic steps after that to correct the problem.
> 
> The Results?
> 
> We are now at end of May and the return rate for the second batch of shipments that hit the streets in April has dropped a whopping 85% from March: we are now in the triple digits total units shipped, and I counted a dozen RMA's from the April shipments.. Not good, but not too bad either.. This is clear evidence to me that our process is substantially improving. Being as it may, we do continue to watch every single RMA like hawks and I feel comfortable saying that our zero defect policy is starting to pay off.
> 
> Have a a good Memorial Day you guys, and happy barbecuing
> 
> Gabe


Great to hear that. I'm not quite in the market for a new cooler just yet, but sooner or later I will be and the composition of the H220 is just pitch perfect for my tastes.


----------



## dramabeats

anyone try using a Lamptron FC5V2 to control the pump? Kinda tired of listening to that thing whir and gurgle


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> anyone try using a Lamptron FC5V2 to control the pump? Kinda tired of listening to that thing whir and gurgle


that fan controller is not pwm, so it would not work properly with the pump.


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Golden 3570k? :/
> I spent heaps on my water loop, the orignal idea was to watercool the two 7950's and throw the CPU in there while I was at it.. Next minute the 7950 blocks don't fit properly and I just wasted $400-$500 on watercooling my CPU with a massive amount of RAD space and an insane pump..


I wouldn't say Golden. 5Ghz ran @ 1.52 volts but would have funky errors every now & then. It would pass hours of Intel Burn Test & then the next boot would have a random crash on a random program. I'm just gonna stick with 4.8 Ghz & call it good. When I got the chip it had the Tim problem. Now it has Coollab's Ultra between the core & IHS & H220. It idles @ 29c & loads into the low 60's.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> that fan controller is not pwm, so it would not work properly with the pump.


Man I really can't catch a break


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Golden 3570k? :/
> I spent heaps on my water loop, the orignal idea was to watercool the two 7950's and throw the CPU in there while I was at it.. Next minute the 7950 blocks don't fit properly and I just wasted $400-$500 on watercooling my CPU with a massive amount of RAD space and an insane pump..


I used a universal gpu block. I want to be able to use it again down the road.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> Man I really can't catch a break


You should try using speedfan, it works nicely when its setup properly







.

I have mine set so the pump runs at a little under 1400rpm, it runs pretty quiet, the fans are louder than the pump at this setting.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> You should try using speedfan, it works nicely when its setup properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I have mine set so the pump runs at a little under 1400rpm, it runs pretty quiet, the fans are louder than the pump at this setting.


I don't have time to mess with that program anymore


----------



## JAM3S121

Big thanks to swiftech for making the video about expanding the loop, I've tried watching watercooling tutorials before and it just didn't make as much as sense. Now on to my questions..is just the h220 suitable for 1 graphics card (most likely gtx 770 or gtx 780) and a haswell i7 chip overclocked? I know the haswell isn't out but lets say for speculation purposes the current ivy bridge (not delided) to 4.4ghz ish.? Is all the tubing needed for expanding the loop basically already there and just needs to be cut?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Big thanks to swiftech for making the video about expanding the loop, I've tried watching watercooling tutorials before and it just didn't make as much as sense. Now on to my questions..is just the h220 suitable for 1 graphics card (most likely gtx 770 or gtx 780) and a haswell i7 chip overclocked? I know the haswell isn't out but lets say for speculation purposes the current ivy bridge (not delided) to 4.4ghz ish.? Is all the tubing needed for expanding the loop basically already there and just needs to be cut?


If you want to expand the H220 to cool a gpu, you will need a water block for your card (either universal or full cover made specifically for your card), two 3/8-5/8 fittings, extra coolant and tubing. You can buy more coolant and 3/8-5/8 tubing from Swiftech or get other tubing of your choice of that size.

With a moderate oc on the chip and single gpu you can get reasonable temps, and it will handle it without trouble. If you are looking for a higher oc and/or really good temps then you need to add another rad to the loop.


----------



## yamaharacer19

What radiator size would you recommend (along with the 240 rad in this kit) for a 400 watt heat load?


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> If you want to expand the H220 to cool a gpu, you will need a water block for your card (either universal or full cover made specifically for your card), two 3/8-5/8 fittings, extra coolant and tubing. You can buy more coolant and 3/8-5/8 tubing from Swiftech or get other tubing of your choice of that size.
> 
> With a moderate oc on the chip and single gpu you can get reasonable temps, and it will handle it without trouble. If you are looking for a higher oc and/or really good temps then you need to add another rad to the loop.


'

thanks, does swiftech sell that specific black tubing used on the h220?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> '
> 
> thanks, does swiftech sell that specific black tubing used on the h220?


Yes we do. If you go to PC liquid cooling and then scroll down to the accessories tab, it's under tubing & coolant at the bottom of the page.


----------



## JAM3S121

awesome, thanks for the video again I'm def ordering a h220 with my next build this summer


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What radiator size would you recommend (along with the 240 rad in this kit) for a 400 watt heat load?


Martin would be the expert on that. My simple advice is another 240 rad for one gpu, and 360 for two gpus. You can get by with 120 less on each of those but it all depends on your chip, your gpus, and the oc. Some chips run much hotter than others, and there is a big range of how much people oc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> '
> 
> thanks, does swiftech sell that specific black tubing used on the h220?


Yes, same exact tubing as the stock H220, I am using that myself in my expanded loop.
TruFlex tubing and HydrX PM 2 Coolant on this page:
http://www.swiftech.com/tubingandcoolant.aspx


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> You should try using speedfan, it works nicely when its setup properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I have mine set so the pump runs at a little under 1400rpm, it runs pretty quiet, the fans are louder than the pump at this setting.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have time to mess with that program anymore
Click to expand...

Most mobo, like Asus has there own. Which takes like minutes. Once you set it, its done.
Even in the bios you should be able to set the min and max.
Mine is set tot 20% @ 30c and 60c is 100%


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> Is the 3770K machine have the 7970 under load too or just the CPU?


I was running Unique Heaven while benching the GPU with an 1125mhz OC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What temps are you both getting with this setup?


Btw while running U.H. on my wife's rig I found the max VRMs to be 56C and 48C with the Heatkiller DIY 60.


----------



## xarot

My third H220 on the way from RMA, should arrive today. It should be debris-free batch now. Hopefully, I am too tired of this issue.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> You won't be able to do a p/p with the 600t. Also be careful with the 8pin on the sabertooth, its going to feel in the way but it will fit. I have 4 sticks of ram in mine and while its very close to them it fits just fine.
> 
> thanks for the heads up about the 8pin, so the rams are close to the radiator then?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> unless you zip tie fans or mod the case, it's pretty much impossible to do push pull in a 600t with any dual 120mm cooler.


dang, what kind of modding would i have to do?


----------



## Duke976

Hi everyone,

Just sharing my experience with H220. I have this AIO for about 2 weeks now, it was a great unit at the beginning until late last week. There is all of a sudden loud grinding noise on the pump. I followed every single solution to remove the trap air inside the pump but all those did not work. From shaking the tubing, pump, letting it bleed for the air to escape to tilting the rad.

When I removed the coolant from the unit, to my shock their are some speckle of white debris came from the unit. I even flushed the H220 with distilled water to make sure that no debris was left. Unfortunately after all those solution the unit is still noisy reaching as high as 68db at full speed. Right now I have removed the H220 from my machine because I cant stand the loud noise coming from the pump

I am awaiting from swiftech for their response and hoping to get my replacement soon.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> dang, what kind of modding would i have to do?


The ram will be fine. Your saber , as the 600t wouldn't , wont let you do a p/p the armor gets in the way even if the 600t didn't. Really don't need to with this cooler, intake works just fine.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> The ram will be fine. Your saber , as the 600t wouldn't , wont let you do a p/p the armor gets in the way even if the 600t didn't. Really don't need to with this cooler, intake works just fine.


Yeah, from what I can see your RAM will always be in the way. Losing the Thermal Armor and a top VRM heat sink would only allow you to put 1 fan on the inside. Don't feel bad though my HAF XM is the same way.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just sharing my experience with H220. I have this AIO for about 2 weeks now, it was a great unit at the beginning until late last week. There is all of a sudden loud grinding noise on the pump. I followed every single solution to remove the trap air inside the pump but all those did not work. From shaking the tubing, pump, letting it bleed for the air to escape to tilting the rad.
> 
> When I removed the coolant from the unit, to my shock their are some speckle of white debris came from the unit. I even flushed the H220 with distilled water to make sure that no debris was left. Unfortunately after all those solution the unit is still noisy reaching as high as 68db at full speed. Right now I have removed the H220 from my machine because I cant stand the loud noise coming from the pump
> 
> I am awaiting from swiftech for their response and hoping to get my replacement soon.


You can PM BramSLI ([email protected]) and he'll get you taking care of in a jiff. Alternatively, if you wait a few hours for him to get on, I'm sure he'll contact you first as soon as he sees your post







.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You can PM BramSLI ([email protected]) and he'll get you taking care of in a jiff. Alternatively, if you wait a few hours for him to get on, I'm sure he'll contact you first as soon as he sees your post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Holiday, will most likely have to wait until Tuesday! But rest assured he will get you taken care of.


----------



## Phelan

Ah good point. Bryan will still make quick contact though


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> The ram will be fine. Your saber , as the 600t wouldn't , wont let you do a p/p the armor gets in the way even if the 600t didn't. Really don't need to with this cooler, intake works just fine.


this. the h220 radiator is designed for low-med speed fans, push pull will net minimal gains on the h220. I tried with 3 fans and saw no gains (zip tied, 4th fan just wouldnt fit)


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Make sure that in the bios you have it set to monitor the CPU header and to disable the min fan speed.


Can you elaborate on this? My Bios only has the option of automatic and then 9 different levels and a temperature goal I can set. There's no way to disable it a min. fan speed as far as I can tell.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Make sure that in the bios you have it set to monitor the CPU header and to disable the min fan speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on this? My Bios only has the option of automatic and then 9 different levels and a temperature goal I can set. There's no way to disable it a min. fan speed as far as I can tell.
Click to expand...

Which mobo you have?


----------



## Jodo

Well, got my H220 Friday, installed Sunday into a Fractal XL R2. Installation went well. I mounted the radiator to the front keeping the fans intact(so there are two on the pull side, and 1x140 in push at the top(I may just remove this fan but meh). It replaced my loud Thermaltake 120 on my i5-750 that even at 50% power was running my CPU at around 30-33 degrees while not allowing me to play games at 50% without getting way too close to 75-80 degrees. Now the H220 was idling at 17 degrees at 100% or 22-23 at 50% and never even hit 50 degrees while gaming.

I reverted to stock clocks though and with variable clocking so those numbers are without pushing the CPU too much. Tonight I'm going to go to my normal 3.8Ghz overclock @ 1.225 volts and see what I get. On my old setup, I was idling around 45 degrees and hitting 85 degrees in one game, and mid 70's in other games. I'm hoping for mid 60's at 50% speed at 3.8Ghz and pushing my


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just sharing my experience with H220. I have this AIO for about 2 weeks now, it was a great unit at the beginning until late last week. There is all of a sudden loud grinding noise on the pump. I followed every single solution to remove the trap air inside the pump but all those did not work. From shaking the tubing, pump, letting it bleed for the air to escape to tilting the rad.
> 
> When I removed the coolant from the unit, to my shock their are some speckle of white debris came from the unit. I even flushed the H220 with distilled water to make sure that no debris was left. Unfortunately after all those solution the unit is still noisy reaching as high as 68db at full speed. Right now I have removed the H220 from my machine because I cant stand the loud noise coming from the pump
> 
> I am awaiting from swiftech for their response and hoping to get my replacement soon.


Sending you a PM. Just follow the instructions and we can have a replacement sent out to you on Tuesday when we're open again. I'm sorry about the issue you're having with your kit, but we will get you taken care of.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> ... but we will get you taken care of.


Swiftech's commitment to getting this completely right on a per customer basis is highly commendable. I'm a fan and almost certainly a future customer.


----------



## Lysrin

Hello all! I'm new liquid cooling and to the forum and joined at Bryan's suggestion. I had some issues with my H220s, and I wanted to just chime in here and say, as others have, how absolutely stellar the customer and technical support has been from Swiftech! Walked me through options and solutions and they have been completely committed to my satisfaction as their customer. I even received follow up emails and messages from Gabe and Bryan over the long weekend! Truly above and beyond in my opinion. We all know that issues can exist in new tech, tis the way of things. But to have this level of support has made me a Swiftech customer from now on! Thanks again!


----------



## TheGovernment

Are there any 320 rads with the fill port like whats on the H220's? I'm planning on expanding my loop with my 2 titans and 3930k and want to put a 320 rad in my switch 810 on the top and the 220 that is came with on the bottom. It would just save some hassle having a 320 with a res. I'm sure I could get away with 2 x 220's but the 320 fits perfect on the top of the 810, so I want to go that route.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Are there any 320 rads with the fill port like whats on the H220's? I'm planning on expanding my loop with my 2 titans and 3930k and want to put a 320 rad in my switch 810 on the top and the 220 that is came with on the bottom. It would just save some hassle having a 320 with a res. I'm sure I could get away with 2 x 220's but the 320 fits perfect on the top of the 810, so I want to go that route.


That is exactly what I did with my H220 and Switch 810. The rad you see at the top in the pic below in the spoiler is a Swiftech MCR320-QP-RES-R2 which has a built is res. Here is a link:
http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx

To get the tubing on the right I had to make some mods to the case though.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> That is exactly what I did with my H220 and Switch 810. The rad you see at the top in the pic below in the spoiler is a Swiftech MCR320-QP-RES-R2 which has a built is res. Here is a link:
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx
> 
> To get the tubing on the right I had to make some mods to the case though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is the purpose of having two res in one system? Why not just get any 360 rad?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What is the purpose of having two res in one system? Why not just get any 360 rad?


Because you want the res above the pump to feed it directly. A 360 fits nicely at the top, so getting one with a res makes everything easy. Not to mention with the res in the stock 240 rad you have an easy drain point at the bottom.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Because you want the res above the pump to feed it directly. A 360 fits nicely at the top, so getting one with a res makes everything easy. Not to mention with the res in the stock 240 rad you have an easy drain point at the bottom.


That makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> The ram will be fine. Your saber , as the 600t wouldn't , wont let you do a p/p the armor gets in the way even if the 600t didn't. Really don't need to with this cooler, intake works just fine.


Dang, I actually wanted to do outake. Kinda makes me wish i didn't get the sabertooth. lol


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> Dang, I actually wanted to do outake. Kinda makes me wish i didn't get the sabertooth. lol


Don't fret, the sabertooth is a great mobo. The thing is with this cooler, if you read back through the pages, doesn't need a p/p fan setup, it will work great with the way it was designed to be run, intake.
You and I have the same setup , I love mine the way it is, listen to what people are saying on here and you will too.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Don't fret, the sabertooth is a great mobo. The thing is with this cooler, if you read back through the pages, doesn't need a p/p fan setup, it will work great with the way it was designed to be run, intake.
> You and I have the same setup , I love mine the way it is, listen to what people are saying on here and you will too.


doesnt need p/p! thats great news! cant wait til it arrives this week. so excited!


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which mobo you have?


Asrock x79 extreme6


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> That is exactly what I did with my H220 and Switch 810. The rad you see at the top in the pic below in the spoiler is a Swiftech MCR320-QP-RES-R2 which has a built is res. Here is a link:
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx
> 
> To get the tubing on the right I had to make some mods to the case though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My favorite H220 expansion yet, looks brilliant! I might be biased for having the same case though


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> My favorite H220 expansion yet, looks brilliant! I might be biased for having the same case though


And here I am trying to figure out how to add a single 140mm radiator to mine! I guess that's what I get for buying a case optimized for air cooling.


----------



## McBerto

Anyone know how it compares to the H100i? I currently have a H100i in my system and an unopened H220 I order to replace it.

I might just keep the H100i in but was hoping for some feedback.

Too late to get a refund also...


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What temps are you both getting with this setup?


What temps under what scenario? As I posted earlier, with a 3570k and GTX 670 at stock speeds, temps remain under 60C under stress test conditions (Prime95 Blend + MSI Kombustor). With both overclocked, the 3570k running 4.4 GHz @ 1.225v and the 670 set to 121% power target, temps on my hottest core rise to over 85C after 15 minutes of the same stress testing with the fans and pump running at 100%.

In actual usage, my 3570k seems to hit 68C or so on the hottest core, and the 670 gets to maybe 55C or so. Delidding my chip would probably bring those down, as my coolest core is only 62C. It's a lot of power to expect a 240mm rad to dissipate, so don't expect amazing temps. Still, it keeps the temps in an acceptable range and is reasonably quiet. I have a custom fan profile set up in Speedfan, and the fans generally stay below 40-50%.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Still no stock for the UK its starting to piss me off waiting now


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McBerto*
> 
> Anyone know how it compares to the H100i? I currently have a H100i in my system and an unopened H220 I order to replace it.
> 
> I might just keep the H100i in but was hoping for some feedback.
> 
> Too late to get a refund also...


A number of people have compared the two.
There are a ton of variables to take into account, especially how you choose to run them in the comparison. In my testing, with the same fans at slow rpm for quiet, I could not show a statistical difference between the two in just cpu cooling.

So for me it was a no brainer because I can expand the H220. If you have no plans to ever expand the H220 or modify it in any way then the H100i is a viable alternative. The other advantage most people see is the H220 with stock fans is quieter than the H100i with its stock fans even if they don't expand or change it.


----------



## Ardi

Does anyone know what brand of tubing is used in the H220?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ardi*
> 
> Does anyone know what brand of tubing is used in the H220?


It is their own 3/8-5/8 TruFlex tubing. You can buy more of the same if you want:
http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing.aspx


----------



## Ardi

Thanks


----------



## Skullwipe

Well, I've sadly come to the conclusion that there's not a way to expand my loop in the HAF XM. There's just not enough room on the back of the case to add a 120 or 140mm radiator, the hose leading from the H220 radiator would kink hard.



This is the only orientation I can mount the H220 in.


----------



## justanoldman

^I am not familiar with your case, but you can’t have it with the H220 tubes on the right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Well, I've sadly come to the conclusion that there's not a way to expand my loop in the HAF XM. There's just not enough room on the back of the case to add a 120 or 140mm radiator, the hose leading from the H220 radiator would kink hard.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the only orientation I can mount the H220 in.


Besides trying with the tubes on the other side (on the right) perhaps you can place the 140 mm outside the case and pass the tubes through the rubber grommets?


----------



## AdamMT

I don't see why it would be a problem; just mount the 120/140 with the barbs on the bottom.


----------



## ez12a

i had the same problem with the 600t. The issue is the 120mm rad + a fan would pretty much close off that gap where the tubes go so you'd have to route the tubes like in my 600t. However my case is wider and would allow the tubes to run towards the side panel. For space considerations he'd probably have to mount the rad outside. Or maybe put the fan on the outside of the case and have no fans attached directly to the rad.

if only he could test fit with something. I had a h50 lying around so i was able to test fit it to see if it would work.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> I don't see why it would be a problem; just mount the 120/140 with the barbs on the bottom.


The barbs won't fit with the rad upside down because they will try to overlap the top PCIE slot. the original Phantom has a similar issue in this spot with a full rad up top, which is why I added the slinding fan mounts from the Phantom 820 into the back of my mini-Phantom when I built it, so I can adjust the fan height to accommodate an additional 120mm rad if I so desire.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Besides trying with the tubes on the other side (on the right) perhaps you can place the 140 mm outside the case and pass the tubes through the rubber grommets?


Here's the issue, this is just the exhaust fan.



And as for flipping the radiator around....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Here's the issue, this is just the exhaust fan.
> 
> Wouldn't work if you take out the exhaust fan completely and place it (along with the 140 mm rad) outside the case? Then you would have clearance enough. The question is whether or not the tubing will pass on the case rubber grommets....


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Besides trying with the tubes on the other side (on the right) perhaps you can place the 140 mm outside the case and pass the tubes through the rubber grommets?
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the issue, this is just the exhaust fan.
> 
> 
> 
> And as for flipping the radiator around....
Click to expand...

Can you sit the rad on top of the frame.


----------



## SDBolts619

Holy crapoly. Miss a week of the thread and there's no way I'm reading all those posts to catch up. Cliffnotes anyone on the past week?


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Holy crapoly. Miss a week of the thread and there's no way I'm reading all those posts to catch up. Cliffnotes anyone on the past week?


Some more people with broken pumps needing RMA. Swiftech may air ship a small batch of H320 kits over for early adopters.

Edit: Figured I would add some links of interest
Here are some relevant posts regarding H320 and RMA/failure rate.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3270#post_20050925
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3270#post_20052005
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3270#post_20052096

It sounds like any current a future batches should be much more reliable.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Some more people with broken pumps needing RMA. Swiftech may air ship a small batch of H320 kits over for early adopters.


+REP!


----------



## BradleyW

Hey, what is the sound levels for the H220 pump at full speed? My rig is silent with my H100i and I expect the H220 to be just as silent.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey, what is the sound levels for the H220 pump at full speed? My rig is silent with my H100i and I expect the H220 to be just as silent.


WAY too loud at full speed for a silent rig. I run mine at just under 1200rpm directly off the CPU header.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey, what is the sound levels for the H220 pump at full speed? My rig is silent with my H100i and I expect the H220 to be just as silent.


The sound level is truly going to be all over the place depending on your specific pump, and whether or not you have any air trapped in the loop. Some people have reported that they are unable to hear the pump at all at low PWM levels while others have stated it is quite loud. My pump was extremely loud even after the air bubbles were worked out, but it eventually failed. I am still waiting to hear the noise level on the replacement.

If your goal is truly silence, you should look into a separate pump with a silence box such as: (this) or (this)


----------



## TeeBlack

mine is quiet even at full speed its not that loud. sound levels are very subjective to each person.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> The sound level is truly going to be all over the place depending on your specific pump, and whether or not you have any air trapped in the loop. Some people have reported that they are unable to hear the pump at all at low PWM levels while others have stated it is quite loud. My pump was extremely loud even after the air bubbles were worked out, but it eventually failed. I am still waiting to hear the noise level on the replacement.
> 
> If your goal is truly silence, you should look into a separate pump with a silence box such as: (this) or (this)


I am one of those folks who can't hear the pump at all, unless it is a full RPM, and even then it is more fan than pump. I guess I am one of the lucky ones.


----------



## mastahg

My first pump was very quiet until some debris got caught inside of it. Second pump started quiet but has been getting louder and louder. I've flushed it twice and still very loud no matter the rpm.


----------



## Phishy714

Sound is VERY subjective - so no one can tell you how loud the pump is truthfully without you hearing it in your setup. Someone that says it's loud might have an open case in front of them with super quiet fans. Those that say it's quiet might have a very insulated case that sits under their desk.

Only way to know is to try it out yourself.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> That is exactly what I did with my H220 and Switch 810. The rad you see at the top in the pic below in the spoiler is a Swiftech MCR320-QP-RES-R2 which has a built is res. Here is a link:
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp-radiator-series.aspx
> 
> To get the tubing on the right I had to make some mods to the case though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beauty, thanks man. like you said also, it will make draining the loop super easy as well. +rep for you.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Beauty, thanks man. like you said also, it will make draining the loop super easy as well. +rep for you.


No problem, and thanks.
Just so you know, since it looks like you have the AX1200, there is a space issue at the bottom. I had to use some big pliers to bend back the lip of the bottom 140 fan grill on the front panel. Even when you do that there is a not a lot of space to work with the H220 rad down there and your power cables. It all works, but just wanted to give you a heads up.

Here are pics of my angry mod - as in not taking the time to make it pretty, I just wanted it to fit.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jderbs

My H220 is now making sounds like a toilet where the water won't stop running... is it on it's way out? Annoying to say the least considering I could almost live with having NO RPM reading for the pump to begin with.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Besides trying with the tubes on the other side (on the right) perhaps you can place the 140 mm outside the case and pass the tubes through the rubber grommets?


If I'm going to go all ghetto with it I might as well do an external 3x120mm rad.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> My H220 is now making sounds like a toilet where the water won't stop running... is it on it's way out? Annoying to say the least considering I could almost live with having NO RPM reading for the pump to begin with.


you probably have air bubbles trapped in there. try tilting your case around a bit and it should go away after while.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> No problem, and thanks.
> Just so you know, since it looks like you have the AX1200, there is a space issue at the bottom. I had to use some big pliers to bend back the lip of the bottom 140 fan grill on the front panel. Even when you do that there is a not a lot of space to work with the H220 rad down there and your power cables. It all works, but just wanted to give you a heads up.
> 
> Here are pics of my angry mod - as in not taking the time to make it pretty, I just wanted it to fit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ya I knew about the fitment. Modding is no problem, I already knew I was going to have to lol. I just have to decide what blocks I'm going to use with my titans now! I love buying new stuff!!


----------



## justanoldman

I know a lot of people use EK, but I had a problem with their gpu block, then they sent me a used and beat up replacement. Maybe it was just a one off case, but I switched to a Heatkiller block and it is awesome. Measurably better temps and both gpus on the card are very close instead of being several c off with the EK. Just my two cents on gpu blocks.


----------



## Dhalmel

awww damnit, newegg had some h220s in stock and they quickly sold out before I had the chance to buy.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Buy from either performance-pcs or jab-tech. They still have them in stock.


----------



## Watagump

Newegg is also charging $10 more for them.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> awww damnit, newegg had some h220s in stock and they quickly sold out before I had the chance to buy.


here you go

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37174


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I know a lot of people use EK, but I had a problem with their gpu block, then they sent me a used and beat up replacement. Maybe it was just a one off case, but I switched to a Heatkiller block and it is awesome. Measurably better temps and both gpus on the card are very close instead of being several c off with the EK. Just my two cents on gpu blocks.


I also have a Heatkiller block for my 670. Really impressed with it. This is my first water cooled set up, so I don't have anything else to compare it to, but I wouldn't even consider anybody's blocks unless it was impossible to get a Heatkiller. Not knocking anybody else, just a big thumbs up from me...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> awww damnit, newegg had some h220s in stock and they quickly sold out before I had the chance to buy.


Sidewinder Computers has them in stock too.


----------



## thebto

So I am hoping someone here can help me, I keep looking for pictures, and trying to figure out if the H220 would fit on a planned build I have:

Case: Define R4
MoBo: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
RAM: Low-profile (Still deicing which brand and model)

I've been searching for pictures (of similar-sized setups) and quite decide if the H220 will fit without any modifications. The main concern I have are the heatsinks MSI has placed next to the EPS plug at the very top, they seem rather tall, and like the might be an issue.

As a bonus question would be if I can fit a Bluray burner in the top 5.25" bay.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Skullwipe

The Microcenter in Westmont still has them on the shelf...


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So I am hoping someone here can help me, I keep looking for pictures, and trying to figure out if the H220 would fit on a planned build I have:
> 
> Case: Define R4
> MoBo: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
> RAM: Low-profile (Still deicing which brand and model)
> 
> I've been searching for pictures (of similar-sized setups) and quite decide if the H220 will fit without any modifications. The main concern I have are the heatsinks MSI has placed next to the EPS plug at the very top, they seem rather tall, and like the might be an issue.
> 
> As a bonus question would be if I can fit a Bluray burner in the top 5.25" bay.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


It will fit in the R4 with the offset 120 holes, not sure about that mobo. The dragon heatsink would be my only concern.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So I am hoping someone here can help me, I keep looking for pictures, and trying to figure out if the H220 would fit on a planned build I have:
> 
> Case: Define R4
> MoBo: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
> RAM: Low-profile (Still deicing which brand and model)
> 
> I've been searching for pictures (of similar-sized setups) and quite decide if the H220 will fit without any modifications. The main concern I have are the heatsinks MSI has placed next to the EPS plug at the very top, they seem rather tall, and like the might be an issue.
> 
> As a bonus question would be if I can fit a Bluray burner in the top 5.25" bay.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


You can front mount or top mount the H220 in the Define R4 with no modifications, with a top mount you'd have to put the optical drive in the lower bay. You can see in the image below that it JUST clears the top of the motherboard, so the VRM sinks shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So I am hoping someone here can help me, I keep looking for pictures, and trying to figure out if the H220 would fit on a planned build I have:
> 
> Case: Define R4
> MoBo: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming
> RAM: Low-profile (Still deicing which brand and model)
> 
> I've been searching for pictures (of similar-sized setups) and quite decide if the H220 will fit without any modifications. The main concern I have are the heatsinks MSI has placed next to the EPS plug at the very top, they seem rather tall, and like the might be an issue.
> 
> As a bonus question would be if I can fit a Bluray burner in the top 5.25" bay.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


I have the non gaming version of the board. Its a tight fit around the 8 pin power plug on the top left of the board, but that's it.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/imag0178hq.jpg/


----------



## gdubc

I can't say for sure but I think if you mount it in the front the hoses would not be long enough to keep the reservoir at the top. So if you want to keep the reservoir at the top you would need to get longer tube to reach to the bottom of the case. You could put the reservoir at the bottom but you might run into issues with noise and you might need to top off the reservoir more often to avoid it.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Ok guys! After 5 weeks of waiting for my RMA unit it has finally arrived! Woohoo!


----------



## IronForge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Ok guys! After 5 weeks of waiting for my RMA unit it has finally arrived! Woohoo!


Let us know how it runs!


----------



## thebto

@colforbin

Thanks a bunch. I looked through your rig's specs and noticed a TZ77XE4 MoBo with an H220 and an R4. I looked through pictures on Newegg for your MoBo, and the VRM heatsinks seem as tall, or maybe almost, as the ones on the GD65 Gaming. How do you find the fit in your setup? Also, do you happen to have a picture of that particular area? (if no, no biggie).

Thanks again!

@Skullwipe

Thanks for the info. I had come across that picture along with this one:

But was still unsure, due to that board being X79 chipset, and the VRM heatsink beink not as far out on the board, and seemingly not as tall either.

Also, I noticed he put he H200 upside down. Which I keep reading on the Owner club thread is not recommended, and you'd have to tilt the case every now and then to help with the flow of the h220.

@Watagump

Thanks for the great info and picture. I noticed you have an NZXT case and you mentioned the EPS connector being the only issue, I'll have to look through the specs of the Phantom 630 and compare them to the R4's. Just want to make an informed decision, and not purchase the h220 and GD65 Gaming MoBo and not being able to fit them in the R4.

@gdubc

Thanks, and I did take mounting it in the front out of the equation due to hose lengths, and also the position of the reservoir. Just want to play it safe and mount it up top.

So, in general, I am just unsure about pulling the trigger on the parts I've mostly decided on (I only have the R4 at this point, with the CPU being purchased most likely today, as I have yet to decide if I feel comfortable spending a bit more and getting a 2011 chip or just stick with the 3770k). And again, the only issue I have is the fit, at this point I kind am considering going back to the early stages of my build plans: air cooling for the CPU. But at the same time I really want to get an h220, because I plan on upgrading my video card in a few months and I want to get an EVGA Hydro Copper card, as I noticed they are designed by Swiftech. For now I'll just keep researching dimension of the components I guess, and might just have to change the MoBo of choice if I go 1155 route.

Again, thanks for the great info, everybody.

Edit: so, as an addendum to this post, I guess the decision is now to either go with a 2011 chip (as the way I was going to purchase my 1055 chip is out, which narrows the choice) or wait a few more months to get a Haswell.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Ok guys! After 5 weeks of waiting for my RMA unit it has finally arrived! Woohoo!


wow seriously? it took 5 weeks? i hope the batch im getting this week doesn't fail.


----------



## moowarcow

can someone tell me the difference between:
Swiftech H220 Liquid CPU Cooling Kit
and
Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler?


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> can someone tell me the difference between:
> Swiftech H220 Liquid CPU Cooling Kit
> and
> Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler?


Besides the tubing, fluid, and the pump/cpu block??? Nope, I can't think of any differences.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> can someone tell me the difference between:
> Swiftech H220 Liquid CPU Cooling Kit
> and
> Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler?


The H220 kit is essentially that, an all-in-one liquid cooling kit for your processor. This kit though can be expanded to include other components into the loop. The Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler is the same thing. They're calling it the Compact Drive II because we use to have an H220 Compact Drive that is now discontinued. Interestingly enough the H220 Compact Drive was my introduction into water cooling.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220 kit is essentially that, an all-in-one liquid cooling kit for your processor. This kit though can be expanded to include other components into the loop. The Swiftech H220 Compact Drive II CPU Water Cooler is the same thing. They're calling it the Compact Drive II because we use to have an H220 Compact Drive that is now discontinued. Interestingly enough the H220 Compact Drive was my introduction into water cooling.


thanks for the quick response. i was worried i ordered something different. hehe


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> Besides the tubing, fluid, and the pump/cpu block??? Nope, I can't think of any differences.


They are the same product. Some resellers like Frozen CPU are calling our new H220 kit the H220 Compact Drive II because we used to sell a kit called the H220 Compact Drive that is now discontinued.


----------



## fmydog

So I am a noob to water cooling and I just ordered the h220 for my 3930k and I have it oc to 4.5ghz at 1.306v on load. Now that I found people adding gpus to the loop I am interested. What would I need to add 2 Gigabyte 7970 wind force cards to the loop? I found a dual 140mm radiator on amazon for 63$ from koolance are those any good. Oh I have an antec df-85 case. I plan to replace my tc14pe because it is to big and blocks first pcie slot. And I also have my dual 7970 oc to 1100mhz


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fmydog*
> 
> So I am a noob to water cooling and I just ordered the h220 for my 3930k and I have it oc to 4.5ghz at 1.306v on load. Now that I found people adding gpus to the loop I am interested. What would I need to add 2 Gigabyte 7970 wind force cards to the loop? I found a dual 140mm radiator on amazon for 63$ from koolance are those any good. Oh I have an antec df-85 case. I plan to replace my tc14pe because it is to big and blocks first pcie slot. And I also have my dual 7970 oc to 1100mhz


With an oced 3930k and two oced cards you will want to add more rad space. To get good temps you would want another 240 of radiator, but I would recommend another 360. I am not familiar with the DF-85 so I don't know if you can mod the front to fit a rad and fans.

In general to expand the loop you need additional coolant, 3/8-5/8 tubing, two 3/8-5/8 fittings per extra rad and gpu block, and two gpu blocks - either universal or full cover for your particular cards.

Not the best advice I can give, but acquiring a case that makes water cooling easy and fits extra rads will make your life a lot easier when expanding the H220.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> @colforbin
> 
> Thanks a bunch. I looked through your rig's specs and noticed a TZ77XE4 MoBo with an H220 and an R4. I looked through pictures on Newegg for your MoBo, and the VRM heatsinks seem as tall, or maybe almost, as the ones on the GD65 Gaming. How do you find the fit in your setup? Also, do you happen to have a picture of that particular area? (if no, no biggie).
> 
> Thanks again!


It is pretty tight. Can't see it that well, but there is black heatsink above the orange paint.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fmydog*
> 
> So I am a noob to water cooling and I just ordered the h220 for my 3930k and I have it oc to 4.5ghz at 1.306v on load. Now that I found people adding gpus to the loop I am interested. What would I need to add 2 Gigabyte 7970 wind force cards to the loop? I found a dual 140mm radiator on amazon for 63$ from koolance are those any good. Oh I have an antec df-85 case. I plan to replace my tc14pe because it is to big and blocks first pcie slot. And I also have my dual 7970 oc to 1100mhz


Typical Antec case with a solid full length drive cage. Does the H220 fit inside the cage? If so you should be able to fit any 240mm radiator inside of it, and you could add an additional 120mm radiator on the top or back...where ever the H220 isn't mounted.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

guys..... I seriosly want to cry right now. After waiting 5 weeks for my RMA unit, it finally arrived. I can't for the life of me unscrew the thumbscrews that secure the bracket under shipping!!! I tried using a screwdriver but still the screws won't move one bit. I'm afraid that If I screw harder with my screwdriver I will mess the screws up. What am I supposed to do now? I refuse to wait another 5 weeks or even a few days for a new unit again. This is just to ridiculous!!


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> guys..... I seriosly want to cry right now. After waiting 5 weeks for my RMA unit, it finally arrived. I can't for the life of me unscrew the thumbscrews that secure the bracket under shipping!!! I tried using a screwdriver but still the screws won't move one bit. I'm afraid that If I screw harder with my screwdriver I will mess the screws up. What am I supposed to do now? I refuse to wait another 5 weeks or even a few days for a new unit again. This is just to ridiculous!!


Forgive this question, as I mean no offense by it, are you turning the screws counter-clockwise?


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Forgive this question, as I mean no offense by it, are you turning the screws counter-clockwise?


Of course I am turning the screws counter clockwise







Believe me, I have unscrewed quite a bit of screws before


----------



## benben84

Quick question, I am planning a future WC build and would only like to WC the CPU and would probably never add to that loop. If I ever decided to WC the GPU's it would probably be a different loop, pump, radiator.

My question: Would the H220 pump support a 480mm radiator without having a reservoir?

Or would I be better to just order the Apogee Drive II?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benben84*
> 
> Quick question, I am planning a future WC build and would only like to WC the CPU and would probably never add to that loop. If I ever decided to WC the GPU's it would probably be a different loop, pump, radiator.
> 
> My question: Would the H220 pump support a 480mm radiator without having a reservoir?
> 
> Or would I be better to just order the Apogee Drive II?


You need a reservoir either way.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fmydog*
> 
> So I am a noob to water cooling and I just ordered the h220 for my 3930k and I have it oc to 4.5ghz at 1.306v on load. Now that I found people adding gpus to the loop I am interested. What would I need to add 2 Gigabyte 7970 wind force cards to the loop? I found a dual 140mm radiator on amazon for 63$ from koolance are those any good. Oh I have an antec df-85 case. I plan to replace my tc14pe because it is to big and blocks first pcie slot. And I also have my dual 7970 oc to 1100mhz


You need a new case. df-85 only spot to mount a rad is top 240.


You will need to add at least another 240 rad and higher to cool effectively.
As for koolance, most of the rads are very dense about 30fpi. Which requires fans with extreme SP to even fully cool. Low FPI rads in the 8-13fpi is what I prefer, as low speed fans with little SP will do good and keep noise down.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by DrizzlePistol
> 
> guys..... I seriosly want to cry right now. After waiting 5 weeks for my RMA unit, it finally arrived. I can't for the life of me unscrew the thumbscrews that secure the bracket under shipping!!! I tried using a screwdriver but still the screws won't move one bit. I'm afraid that If I screw harder with my screwdriver I will mess the screws up. What am I supposed to do now? I refuse to wait another 5 weeks or even a few days for a new unit again. This is just to ridiculous!!


Are you talking about the Intel back plate that comes attached to the water block? I've experienced that those screws can be very tight, but you should still be able to remove them. Let me know if you're still having difficulty removing it and I'll see if there is something we can do to assist you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Multi-post. Sorry.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Of course I am turning the screws counter clockwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe me, I have unscrewed quite a bit of screws before


Just go by the old saying. Dont force it, get a bigger hammer, if it breaks, it needed replacing anyhow.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you talking about the Intel back plate that comes attached to the water block? I've experienced that those screws can be very tight, but you should still be able to remove them. Let me know if you're still having difficulty removing it and I'll see if there is something we can do to assist you.


Hey again. It's physcially impossible to unscew those darn screws!! Two people have tried now, and we are close to damaging the screws. And by the way, I refuse to send it in again after the horrible long wait for this unit.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Try using a cordless drill with the screw driver bit. That'll loosen it up for you. Just make sure to have someone hold the unit while you apply pressure to the drill.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> Try using a cordless drill with the screw driver bit. That'll loosen it up for you. Just make sure to have someone hold the unit while you apply pressure to the drill.


Already tried this. It just ended up damaging the screwhead. It's unbelievable that Swiftech can make these kinds of products.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Hey again. It's physcially impossible to unscew those darn screws!! Two people have tried now, and we are close to damaging the screws. And by the way, I refuse to send it in again after the horrible long wait for this unit.


Can you try using a pair of pliers on the screws while holding the back plate in a vice or up against an edge so that it doesn't move? If this doesn't work the only thing left for us to do would be to send you a replacement.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you try using a pair of pliers on the screws while holding the back plate in a vice or up against an edge so that it doesn't move? If this doesn't work the only thing left for us to do would be to send you a replacement.


Didn't work. It's like the screws are welded together.

I'll only accept a replacement if you send it to me FIRST this time, otherwise just forget about it, I will request a FULL REFUND instead.


----------



## Watagump

Did you try some WD40 etc?


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> Didn't work. It's like the screws are welded together.
> 
> I'll only accept a replacement if you send it to me FIRST this time, otherwise just forget about it, I will request a FULL REFUND instead.


I m confused. You over tightened the bracket and want to get pissed off at Swiftech? If that is the case you'd be lucky to get any refund at all. If I m misunderstanding, well, my apologies. I do sympathize with the 5 week wait sucking. It is not an excuse, but it is a new product, and it seems demand outstripped supply followed by a screw up on production change. As long as Swiftech is willing to work with ya keep a level head. No other options really exist at this price point and in this simple of a manner. Worst case you can move to the Cooler Master Eisberg.


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> It is pretty tight. Can't see it that well, but there is black heatsink above the orange paint.


I appreciate the picture, that's a really good angle that gives me the info I wanted.

From what I can see I would have trouble fitting the GD65 gaming. The VRM heatsinks on your MoBo are aligned with the end of the RAM slots. the GD65's go a bit closer to the edge. Bummer. Time to re-think the build since it's delayed now anyways.

Thanks again.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I m confused. You over tightened the bracket and want to get pissed off at Swiftech? If that is the case you'd be lucky to get any refund at all. If I m misunderstanding, well, my apologies. I do sympathize with the 5 week wait sucking. It is not an excuse, but it is a new product, and it seems demand outstripped supply followed by a screw up on production change. As long as Swiftech is willing to work with ya keep a level head. No other options really exist at this price point and in this simple of a manner. Worst case you can move to the Cooler Master Eisberg.


He is saying its too tight as it was shipped to him, he cant get it apart to install the unit.


----------



## DrizzlePistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> He is saying its too tight as it was shipped to him, he cant get it apart to install the unit.


This is correct ^


----------



## BradleyW

What is the dba rate when the H220 pump is a full speed? Is it louder than the H110i pump?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the dba rate when the H220 pump is a full speed? Is it louder than the H110i pump?


it varies on your case and everything around it.With the H220 you can adjust the pump speed to your liking.
I do not hear mine at 50% or lower. 60% I can slightly hear. 100% I can hear it, but the fans also are at 100%, as it scales with pump/temps.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the dba rate when the H220 pump is a full speed? Is it louder than the H110i pump?


Why in the world would you want the pump at full speed, uness you have multi gpu's as well as cpu?? You still should not need it at full speed with 2 gpus and 2nd 240mm radiator.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What is the dba rate when the H220 pump is a full speed? Is it louder than the H110i pump?


it will be louder than the h110 because the h110's pump is significantly weaker.

h220 produces an audible whir at full speed, and potentially water noise depending on installation.

@DrizzlePistol: Do you have the old pump handy or did you ship that in already. I was going to suggest worst case scenario if you had both units in hand to cut the screws off the new pump and use the old pump's mounting hardware. If it was that much of a hassle I'm sure swiftech can oblige.


----------



## $ilent

Folks in the UK, I have been speaking to a rep from specialtech and the H220 is expected in thier shop in the next week or so!


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You need a reservoir either way.


A reservoir is not necessary. They make filling, bleeding, and monitoring the coolant level loop easier, but are in no way required.

The H220 pump has been shown to be able to handle several rads and components in the same loop, so you should be fine. But if you're not going to use the 240mm rad that comes with the H220, The Apogee Drive II might be the better buy. In either case, a 480mm rad seems a tad bit excessive to cool a single CPU, but if that's how you want to go more power to you!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesasone*
> 
> A reservoir is not necessary. They make filling, bleeding, and monitoring the coolant level loop easier, but are in no way required.
> 
> The H220 pump has been shown to be able to handle several rads and components in the same loop, so you should be fine. But if you're not going to use the 240mm rad that comes with the H220, The Apogee Drive II might be the better buy. In either case, a 480mm rad seems a tad bit excessive to cool a single CPU, but if that's how you want to go more power to you!


You are planning to not have an air catch at the very least? Even a simple T-fitting with extra tubing and a cap is essentially a reservoir.


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol*
> 
> This is correct ^


Use some vice-grips or channel locks and actually remove the bracket from the pump block. Ask Swiftech to send you those pieces individually and swap them out once they show up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Use some vice-grips or channel locks and actually remove the bracket from the pump block. Ask Swiftech to send you those pieces individually and swap them out once they show up.


Let me check on this course of action before you try to attempt it. This doesn't sound like good idea to me. I'll have an answer for you soon. Update: In speaking with Stephen removing the bracket from the pump is going to be impossible with the back plate still attached. He suggests using a pair of needle-nosed pliers like these . Make sure they have the teeth on them because this will give you the grip you'll need to turn the screws. Let me know if this helps to remove these screws.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me check on this course of action before you try to attempt it. This doesn't sound like good idea to me. I'll have an answer for you soon. Update: In speaking with Stephen removing the bracket from the pump is going to be impossible with the back plate still attached. He suggests using a pair of needle-nosed pliers like these . Make sure they have the teeth on them because this will give you the grip you'll need to turn the screws. Let me know if this helps to remove these screws.


i would suggest mole grips will be much better than needle nose pliers

edit--just in case they arent called mole grips in the usa

http://www.stanleytools.co.uk/category/147531


----------



## benben84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesasone*
> 
> A reservoir is not necessary. They make filling, bleeding, and monitoring the coolant level loop easier, but are in no way required.
> 
> The H220 pump has been shown to be able to handle several rads and components in the same loop, so you should be fine. But if you're not going to use the 240mm rad that comes with the H220, The Apogee Drive II might be the better buy. In either case, a 480mm rad seems a tad bit excessive to cool a single CPU, but if that's how you want to go more power to you!


Thanks for answering. The reasoning behind the 480 is it will be in a caselabs SM8 and I want a 480 both on top and bottom simply for aesthetics. After reading all day today though I've ditched the H220 and Apogee setups and probably go with the Swiftech MCP35X2 Pump along with a large reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You are planning to not have an air catch at the very least? Even a simple T-fitting with extra tubing and a cap is essentially a reservoir.


I was going to have a fill port on top with a T but I've changed my mind as I'm learning.


----------



## kingduqc

Ordered it on NCIX.CA may the 25, no sigh of it yet.

How long will I wait? It's been out of stock at newegg.ca/com,ncix.ca/com, swiftech.com. SSD is here, ram is here... waiting for haswell tog et released and I'll be all set.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Ordered it on NCIX.CA may the 25, no sigh of it yet.
> 
> How long will I wait? It's been out of stock at newegg.ca/com,ncix.ca/com, swiftech.com. SSD is here, ram is here... waiting for haswell tog et released and I'll be all set.


They had stock come in May 6th and sold out May 13th. They only had 10-15 on hand.
Currently a back log of orders, stock is for June 20 (Estimated)
Best to contact NCIX directly too see where you are on the list.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> i would suggest mole grips will be much better than needle nose pliers
> 
> edit--just in case they arent called mole grips in the usa
> 
> http://www.stanleytools.co.uk/category/147531


vise grips in the US









just know that these will more than likely mar the painted finish on anything. Sounds like the screws are already in poor condition though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> vise grips in the US
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just know that these will more than likely mar the painted finish on anything. Sounds like the screws are already in poor condition though.


Just a little tool info, Vice Grips is a brand name, the actual tool are known as locking pliers. I am here to teach the world a little bit about everything.


----------



## navit

Oh yay!


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, does anyone know if my Zalman Z9 can fit a Swiftech H220? I might get it when I upgrade motherboard to something I can overclock on. If not I'll consider adding a second fan to my Hyper 212 EVO. I've seen other cases with the same dimensions as mine but I'm not sure if I could get the H220 to fit in my case with the motherboard in without interferign with the RAM placement and 8-pin connector.

http://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=422


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey, does anyone know if my Zalman Z9 can fit a Swiftech H220? I might get it when I upgrade motherboard to something I can overclock on. If not I'll consider adding a second fan to my Hyper 212 EVO. I've seen other cases with the same dimensions as mine but I'm not sure if I could get the H220 to fit in my case with the motherboard in without interferign with the RAM placement and 8-pin connector.
> 
> http://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=422


not without modification. This guy had to cut the z9 to fit a h100 which is smaller.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1375769/fitting-the-corsair-h100-on-zalman-z9-series-guide


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> not without modification. This guy had to cut the z9 to fit a h100 which is smaller.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1375769/fitting-the-corsair-h100-on-zalman-z9-series-guide


What about a Corsair H80? Or is there a Corsair club I should ask or should I make another thread?


----------



## target39

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What about a Corsair H80? Or is there a Corsair club I should ask or should I make another thread?


Yes, you should be fine with any single 120mm radiator AIO liquid cooler.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> not without modification. This guy had to cut the z9 to fit a h100 which is smaller.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1375769/fitting-the-corsair-h100-on-zalman-z9-series-guide
> 
> 
> 
> What about a Corsair H80? Or is there a Corsair club I should ask or should I make another thread?
Click to expand...

I would scrap the case and get a new one. That way you have the ability to watercool, instead of locking you in to a AIO.


----------



## $ilent

How would the h220 an extra rad compare to say a 360 xspc kit? For cooling a 3770k and a GPU?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> How would the h220 an extra rad compare to say a 360 xspc kit? For cooling a 3770k and a GPU?


it would be very close if not perform the same since the 240mm XSPC kit performs just about equal to the h220. You'd have to match the extra radiator to the 360mm xspc's 120mm advantage.


----------



## $ilent

How much is an extra swiftech rad? I'm assuming its the one with the rad built in, so you would in effect have two rads?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> How much is an extra swiftech rad? I'm assuming its the one with the rad built in, so you would in effect have two rads?


You mean built in res? They vary in price depending on size and other factors.


----------



## $ilent

i think the h220 comes with a lad that has a pump built in doesnt it? i would buy another of these.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> WAY too loud at full speed for a silent rig. I run mine at just under 1200rpm directly off the CPU header.


How much degrees worse can temperatures become if you run the speed at 1200RPM compared to full speed.


----------



## Phelan

[quote name="BradleyW"

url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3420#post_20084374"]
How much degrees worse can temperatures become if you run the speed at 1200RPM compared to full speed.[/quote]

If you're just cooling the CPU, 0-2* C, generally 1*


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you're just cooling the CPU, 0-2* C, generally 1*


Sounds good. I was expecting a prediction of 5c








I have no idea how to use the PWM feature on my motherboard however.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> i think the h220 comes with a lad that has a pump built in doesnt it? i would buy another of these.


The H220 Res is built into the Rad, the pump and CPU block are 1 unit.


----------



## xarot

It's me again









After having a long discussion with our retailer, I have done RMA with them twice, both times I have received a new kit from them. The first two had the debris issue and the pumps failed (first after 5 days or so, the second lasted 20 minutes). So I waited for a new batch of these to arrive in Finland.

The Swiftech coolant was not available in Finland and since this kit was AIO, it should have been working out of the box. I have no experience from WC, but lots of experience with PCs. I didn't get any coolant from Bryan either. Our retailer also suggested that I send the kit to them, it's also much easier to send to a local shop rather than UK or somewhere else.

So recently I received this new kit and I installed into my PC yesterday, it worked fine with major 'gurgling' sounds though from the beginning.

But today, I was going to sell my GTX 680 to a forum member and found this.



Then I investigated and seems that the radiator is leaking from where the hose clamp whatever that is is connected to the radiator. Damage already done. I am yet to investigate the MB and RAMs etc. Could be an issue from the retailer but they really sent a new kit to me, the backplate etc was preinstalled and fans were zip-tied like every time before.





Oh the last image is inverted but I'm too tired to rotate it.

Oh my I have to say that I am FORCED to get rid of this kit from my computer, call it bad luck or whatever but I don't think I simply have done anything wrong to cause these issues? I have tried my best to install everything as carefully as possible. I don't think I should need to do a leak test on AIO kit which is pre-filled and pre-tested.

I did my best not to write about my feelings right now. Fortunately I didn't put my GTX 780 SLI into this build.









The card it leaked onto is a GTX 680 DCII OC.

It'd be nice to see what could be done to this, if anything. If it's an user issue, then blame me.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The H220 Res is built into the Rad, the pump and CPU block are 1 unit.


Ahh my bad I thought the pump was built into the rad?

If you add another rad to the h220 do you need another pump or can you buy one thats built into the rad?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ahh my bad I thought the pump was built into the rad?
> 
> If you add another rad to the h220 do you need another pump or can you buy one thats built into the rad?


Rad short for radiator, res short for reservoir. Getting a little confused on some of these posts.

The stock H220 comes with a pump that is built into the cold plate that goes onto the chip. The radiator that comes with it has an attached reservoir.

If you add another radiator to the loop and place that new radiator above the pump (as in above your chip) then it is highly recommended to get that additional radiator with an attached reservoir. Your water cooling life is much easier with a reservoir above the pump.

If you keep the stock H220 radiator (that has an attached reservoir) above the pump, then any additional radiators you add do not need a reservoir.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ahh my bad I thought the pump was built into the rad?
> 
> If you add another rad to the h220 do you need another pump or can you buy one thats built into the rad?


The pump on the H220's CPU block is sufficient for ~3 blocks and 3 rads, so no need to get a second pump for 2 rads.


----------



## kingduqc

"Hi Jason,
Unfortunately we're currently experiencing a stock shortage for your item SKU# 79583 in all of our warehouses. I've checked with our product manager who takes care of this product line and it looks like our supplier is back ordered and awaiting stock from the manufacturer itself also. I cannot give an accurate ETA on when we will be getting our next shipment although we are doing everything we can to get this item. If you do not wish to wait we can either change your order for a similar item in stock providing the SKU# or we can cancel this item for a refund. Please reply to this ticket with confirmation and that we can charge you the applicable difference. I apologize for any inconvenience this has caused. We look forward in hearing back from you on how you would like to proceed.
Have a great day,"

I really don't know what to do now, I don't want to wait a full month for it but they have no clue when it will be back, could be Monday, could be in June or in 5 weeks.I could cancel it and find another retailer but I like NCIX. I've lurked this forum for a while and it also seems like the H220 have many problems: leaking, noise, pumps failing and it doesn't seem to be special that it fail. If it happens I could ask to RMA it and I'm sure they will take care of it but that's also more waiting and hassle. Decisions decisions... It's the only closed water loop that can be expended so that's neet and also the best one out there but w/e.

Could go with the H100i and get good fans, about same temperature right?Price is lower but can't expand with it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> It's me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After having a long discussion with our retailer, I have done RMA with them twice, both times I have received a new kit from them. The first two had the debris issue and the pumps failed (first after 5 days or so, the second lasted 20 minutes). So I waited for a new batch of these to arrive in Finland.
> 
> The Swiftech coolant was not available in Finland and since this kit was AIO, it should have been working out of the box. I have no experience from WC, but lots of experience with PCs. I didn't get any coolant from Bryan either. Our retailer also suggested that I send the kit to them, it's also much easier to send to a local shop rather than UK or somewhere else.
> 
> So recently I received this new kit and I installed into my PC yesterday, it worked fine with major 'gurgling' sounds though from the beginning.
> 
> But today, I was going to sell my GTX 680 to a forum member and found this.
> 
> Then I investigated and seems that the radiator is leaking from where the hose clamp whatever that is is connected to the radiator. Damage already done. I am yet to investigate the MB and RAMs etc. Could be an issue from the retailer but they really sent a new kit to me, the backplate etc was preinstalled and fans were zip-tied like every time before.
> 
> Oh the last image is inverted but I'm too tired to rotate it.
> 
> Oh my I have to say that I am FORCED to get rid of this kit from my computer, call it bad luck or whatever but I don't think I simply have done anything wrong to cause these issues? I have tried my best to install everything as carefully as possible. I don't think I should need to do a leak test on AIO kit which is pre-filled and pre-tested.
> 
> I did my best not to write about my feelings right now. Fortunately I didn't put my GTX 780 SLI into this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The card it leaked onto is a GTX 680 DCII OC.
> 
> It'd be nice to see what could be done to this, if anything. If it's an user issue, then blame me.


Unfortunately, being that you didn't purchase this kit directly from us we are unable to issue you a refund. That would have to be up to the reseller that sold you this kit. I'm very sorry though that you experienced this issue. Please PM me and I'll see if there is anything we can do for you on our end.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> "Hi Jason,
> Unfortunately we're currently experiencing a stock shortage for your item SKU# 79583 in all of our warehouses. I've checked with our product manager who takes care of this product line and it looks like our supplier is back ordered and awaiting stock from the manufacturer itself also. I cannot give an accurate ETA on when we will be getting our next shipment although we are doing everything we can to get this item. If you do not wish to wait we can either change your order for a similar item in stock providing the SKU# or we can cancel this item for a refund. Please reply to this ticket with confirmation and that we can charge you the applicable difference. I apologize for any inconvenience this has caused. We look forward in hearing back from you on how you would like to proceed.
> Have a great day,"
> 
> I really don't know what to do now, I don't want to wait a full month for it but they have no clue when it will be back, could be Monday, could be in June or in 5 weeks.I could cancel it and find another retailer but I like NCIX. I've lurked this forum for a while and it also seems like the H220 have many problems: leaking, noise, pumps failing and it doesn't seem to be special that it fail. If it happens I could ask to RMA it and I'm sure they will take care of it but that's also more waiting and hassle. Decisions decisions... It's the only closed water loop that can be expended so that's neet and also the best one out there but w/e.
> 
> Could go with the H100i and get good fans, about same temperature right?Price is lower but can't expand with it.


NCIX should have these kits again shortly. I would check this weekend and early next week because we just sent them a shipment of them last Friday. They probably haven't received them yet, but they should have them shortly.

As far as the issues that customers are experiencing:

This is a forum where customers can come to give feedback and that's why there seems to be so many issues. I can assure you that the vast majority of users have not had issues with these kits. We have also witnessed about an 85% drop in RMAs for the most recent batch of these kits. This has been stated by Gabe himself. I hope you find this information useful and I hope you enjoy your H220 kit if that's what you decide to purchase.


----------



## BramSLI1

Mod, please delete multi-posts. Sorry about that. We're having some issues here with our Internet connection.


----------



## Phelan

Holy octa-posting Batman!


----------



## justanoldman

When you really, really, really want to make sure you are heard. lol


----------



## $ilent

Ah so one pump and 2 rads is enough in the h220 for a 3770k and gtx 570?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ah so one pump and 2 rads is enough in the h220 for a 3770k and gtx 570?


Yes. I have the H220 with two extra radiators cooling a 690 and 3770k. Works perfectly. Depends on what temps you want, but one extra rad is enough - depending on the size of the rad obviously.


----------



## marc0053

In stock at newegg.ca
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108183&Tpk=Swiftech%20h220&IsVirtualParent=1


----------



## Avonosac

Bryan really means bizness.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> In stock at newegg.ca
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108183&Tpk=Swiftech%20h220&IsVirtualParent=1


Just checked and found out that NCIX received theirs this morning so they should be available from them shortly.


----------



## TheGovernment

I'm having a hard time deciding on the Aquacomputer Kryographics nickel/plexi or the XSPC razor for my titans and H220 kit with another 320 rad....... I like the look better of the AC K but I like the full sized card length block of the razor.......... You've gotta love first world problems hahaha


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Yes. I have the H220 with two extra radiators cooling a 690 and 3770k. Works perfectly. Depends on what temps you want, but one extra rad is enough - depending on the size of the rad obviously.


What temps do you get? Im assuming your delidded.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> What temps do you get? Im assuming your delidded.


Yes, delidded. Prime95 is in the 70s at 5.0 with 1.41v, doing a benchmark Valley 1.0 run gpus are in the low 40s.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Yes, delidded. Prime95 is in the 70s at 5.0 with 1.41v, doing a benchmark Valley 1.0 run gpus are in the low 40s.


Hmm not that great then.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hmm not that great then.


Seriously? Who has better temps than that? I haven't seen anyone with better temps that didn't have an expensive custom setup.


----------



## Watagump

I run in the 70's also with Prime. But my voltage is lower at 1.28 under load. I am not delidded, GPU runs in the 70's also on the stock cooler with fixed fan speed of 37%. I am running at 4.8 on my 3570k, it took 1.45 to hit 5.0. So you have a comparison to use.


----------



## bond32

Just got the new heatkiller 7970 block installed. Man this thing is nice... Only slight issue is I have the backplate coming in next week so that may be a slight challenge.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Seriously? Who has better temps than that? I haven't seen anyone with better temps that didn't have an expensive custom setup.


I get mid 70s on my 3770k thats running at 4.9ghz at 1.43v on my air cooler.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hmm not that great then.


I'm running a full-custom loop and those are essentially the same temps that I'm getting. Those are great temps!


----------



## Watagump

Lets not forget, ambient temps play a factor.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hmm not that great then.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously? Who has better temps than that? I haven't seen anyone with better temps that didn't have an expensive custom setup.
Click to expand...

I get the same core temps (low 40's on Valley runs) using cheap Zalman LQ320 closed loops on each of my GPUs (Red modded), and my 3570k does P95 in the high 60's with the H220 (with much lower OC than yours, though! [email protected] crappy chip, but NOT de-lidded... yet). Ambient temps were roughly 22C when I last ran the tests...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Lets not forget, ambient temps play a factor.


I was just about to mention that. If we don't know what each other's ambient temperatures are then we essentially know nothing about the performance of their cooling system.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just got the new heatkiller 7970 block installed. Man this thing is nice... Only slight issue is I have the backplate coming in next week so that may be a slight challenge.[/QUOTE]
> Don't know if your block is like mine, but on my Heatkiller the screws go all the way through the card for the backplate. If yours is like that you will need to redo everything, but that will give you a chance to a 90 degree for that kink going into the card.
> Quote:
> [QUOTE]Originally Posted by [B]$ilent[/B] [URL=https://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3450#post_20087536][IMG alt="View Post"]https://www.overclock.net/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/URL]
> 
> I get mid 70s on my 3770k thats running at 4.9ghz at 1.43v on my air cooler.


The H220 and H100i are comparable to high end air coolers for cpu cooling. The difference is you can add a gpu to the loop and not increase the temps to the chip.


----------



## bond32

I was afraid of that. What tubing would you recommend for that bend? Tubing is stock size, 3/8 ID 5/8 OD


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Don't know if your block is like mine, but on my Heatkiller the screws go all the way through the card for the backplate. If yours is like that you will need to redo everything, but that will give you a chance to a 90 degree for that kink going into the card.
> The H220 and H100i are comparable to high end air coolers for cpu cooling. The difference is you can add a gpu to the loop and not increase the temps to the chip.


Eh I thought the H220 was supposed to be as good as custom loops?











Quote:


> The difference is you can add a gpu to the loop and not increase the temps to the chip.


So why not just keep an air cooler and buy a cheap $50 Corsair closed kit and put that on the gpu and have better temps? Jus sayin...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I was just about to mention that. If we don't know what each other's ambient temperatures are then we essentially know nothing about the performance of their cooling system.


If I turn the AC on in my room, I can drop temps quite a few degrees. I don't know what my exact room temps are, but running the AC for a while I can see my temps go from low 30's at idle to mid 20's or less. Everyone has a different situation of course.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I was afraid of that. What tubing would you recommend for that bend? Tubing is stock size, 3/8 ID 5/8 OD


You can use the tubing you have, it is just that you need a 90 degree fitting going into the card to avoid that one kink. Also tape over the Swiftech fittings will keep them from getting scratched.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Eh I thought the H220 was supposed to be as good as custom loops?
> 
> So why not just keep an air cooler and buy a cheap $50 Corsair closed kit and put that on the gpu and have better temps? Jus sayin...


Having an air cooler would give me slightly worse temps with more sound. I get my temps with silent settings, I don't use fans over 950rpm.

I have a 690, that has two 680s and a plx bridge to cool as well as a lot of memory chips. I wouldn't have the most powerful 690 on OCN right now without a full coverage block and water. I can drop the gpu oc slightly and use vsync for gaming and my temps drop measurably.

What were your room temps with that run? And do you have your air cooler set at half speed?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Having an air cooler would give me slightly worse temps with more sound. I get my temps with silent settings, I don't use fans over 950rpm.
> 
> I have a 690, that has two 680s and a plx bridge to cool as well as a lot of memory chips. I wouldn't have the most powerful 690 on OCN right now without a full coverage block and water. I can drop the gpu oc slightly and use vsync for gaming and my temps drop measurably.
> 
> What were your room temps with that run? And do you have your air cooler set at half speed?


Very well put. This is what many people miss when they consider water cooling. They usually think that it's just about performance. It's about performance, but at tolerable noise levels. That's why I run three radiators. I don't do it so that I can crank my fans up and get the best performance. I do it so that I can get great performance with minimal noise levels. This is where water cooling has a significant advantage over air cooling. In order to get similar performance with an air cooler you'll need to run it at full speed. That's just something I can't tolerate in terms of noise levels.


----------



## $ilent

Not sure on room temps dont have a thermo, but im guessing 20-25c. I only have one fan on the air cooler its a Corsair Sp120 fan, plugged into mobo.


----------



## Watagump

Silence is golden. I love my NZXT Phantom 630 case. With my current fan setup using the Noctua NF F12 on the H220, I run all my fans off the controller that came with the case. It has 3 settings, I am on the middle of the three and I can hear the TV in my other room over my PC. If I turn it to high speed, then I hear the Noctua's, but not the 200mm intake and 140mm exhaust that are stock case fans. On low speed, the PC is on and unless you look at the LED lights, you cant even tell its on. The pump is also silent at just under 1200RPM using the CPU1 header.


----------



## $ilent

With case fans and 4 fans on a h220 rad it can't be that quiet surely...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> With case fans and 4 fans on a h220 rad it can't be that quiet surely...


It can be if you run them at minimal speeds. You'd be surprised. I have an H220 on my work system sitting right here next to me and I can hear the router over the sound of the computer.


----------



## Watagump

I am just glad I didn't spend the money on a full custom loop. I will admit though, they look amazing. Heck even looking at a kit for around $270 or so, would be nothing more than a waste of money. I have always been about safe temps over the BEST temps.


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> NCIX should have these kits again shortly. I would check this weekend and early next week because we just sent them a shipment of them last Friday. They probably haven't received them yet, but they should have them shortly.
> 
> As far as the issues that customers are experiencing:
> 
> This is a forum where customers can come to give feedback and that's why there seems to be so many issues. I can assure you that the vast majority of users have not had issues with these kits. We have also witnessed about an 85% drop in RMAs for the most recent batch of these kits. This has been stated by Gabe himself. I hope you find this information useful and I hope you enjoy your H220 kit if that's what you decide to purchase.


Thanks for the info, Actually this is what I've been thinking about. Usually you hear more about consumers with problem (specially on a forum about the product) then the one without. Kinda like in the OCZ days where everyone was claiming their ssd was **** because most complain on ssd was about OCZ's one. The thing is they shipped the majority of ssds so that's why there was more complain on internet about it. I've canceled my order on NCIX with a refund and ordered on frozencpu, they had ONE in stock and I was lucky to get it. Also had my Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans and some pk3 witch wasn't available on ncix. Kinda feel bad about it cause their consumer support is A1. Guess they'll get my money for haswell and a mobo so no biggie.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> With case fans and 4 fans on a h220 rad it can't be that quiet surely...


Why would I have 4 fans on the H220? I just have push or pull on my rads, not push/pull. Most people say NF-F12 is a quiet fan, but I think they are loud at full speed, that is why I slow them down to under 1000rpm, then they are very quiet. I also put the H220 pump at 30%.

Ok, there is a very big difference between 20 and 25c, but I can say I did 69, 72, 70, 68 in a 24.4c room with the case closed up and everything set to minimum settings for max quiet. That is with Prime95 8k test which is pretty much the hottest and using 90% ram.

Not trying to say you can't keep the air cooler and mod something for a gpu at all. I was just trying to say why I did it. And with one of the highest chip and gpu overclocks on OCN I get really good temps for my hardware considering the silence of the rig. Not to mention my loop looks good too, since I know some people care about that.

You can save a ton of money with an air cooler and a simple gpu mod where you don't care about a good vram oc. The H220 with adding a rad or two plus fittings, tubing, and coolant is not cheap. But it is a fraction of what most full custom water guys spend, without that much loss in performance.


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It can be if you run them at minimal speeds. You'd be surprised. I have an H220 on my work system sitting right here next to me and I can hear the router over the sound of the computer.


would you say 4 fans real low speed> 2 fans running faster is better for cooling and sound?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> would you say 4 fans real low speed> 2 fans running faster is better for cooling and sound?


It will completely depend on your situation and what fans are being used. Every situation is going to be a little different.


----------



## justanoldman

Just so somebody does say "pics or it didn't happen" here is my Real Temp and Valley run. You can see the gpu temps in the upper right.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> It's me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After having a long discussion with our retailer, I have done RMA with them twice, both times I have received a new kit from them. The first two had the debris issue and the pumps failed (first after 5 days or so, the second lasted 20 minutes). So I waited for a new batch of these to arrive in Finland.
> 
> The Swiftech coolant was not available in Finland and since this kit was AIO, it should have been working out of the box. I have no experience from WC, but lots of experience with PCs. I didn't get any coolant from Bryan either. Our retailer also suggested that I send the kit to them, it's also much easier to send to a local shop rather than UK or somewhere else.
> 
> So recently I received this new kit and I installed into my PC yesterday, it worked fine with major 'gurgling' sounds though from the beginning.
> 
> But today, I was going to sell my GTX 680 to a forum member and found this.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I investigated and seems that the radiator is leaking from where the hose clamp whatever that is is connected to the radiator. Damage already done.


So sorry to see that...you can take your card to a electronics repair and have it cleaned up I would think. Shouldnt be too expensive for such a small thing.


----------



## justanoldman

^I have seen benchers wash mobos in sinks and even run them through the dishwasher. You can get most things in your rig wet, and as long as you completely dry them out before turning them on, they are usually fine.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately, being that you didn't purchase this kit directly from us we are unable to issue you a refund. That would have to be up to the reseller that sold you this kit. I'm very sorry though that you experienced this issue. Please PM me and I'll see if there is anything we can do for you on our end.


Thanks for the reply. I am not worried of the 139 € kit at all if that is what you meant, I am worried of the GTX 680 which costed me 565,90 €. I will contact the reseller and see what they will say. Probably they will contact Swiftech from there, but it's going to be a very long and futile process I'm afraid. I am not going to install this or any other H220 kit in any of my computers anymore. Neither will I buy the new H320 kit which I was planning to do. I don't have the time, patience or willpower to do it. Due to the pump issues, it could very well be that my 3960X has as well already degraded a bit from shutdown temperatures it was experiencing when overclocked.

I am not convinced of the quality of these kits. I have a few years of PC hardware RMA dept background myself, and I simply can't recommend this kit to anyone I know. I know that majority of the members here have a working kit, but now I've seen myself three failed kits and with two kinds of issues. Swiftech has admitted that there really have been some quality issues. Leaks can of course happen in any AIO system as well, but these issues have now gone beyond my patience. I installed my old issue-free H100 back today and I'm happy with it. I visually investigated my motherboard, RAMs and PSU and hope the coolant didn't ruin any of them.

These are my thoughts, hopefully the other members here have a better experience with the H220, especially in the long run.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> ^I have seen benchers wash mobos in sinks and even run them through the dishwasher. You can get most things in your rig wet, and as long as you completely dry them out before turning them on, they are usually fine.


It usually corrodes over time eventually shorting somewhere. Just my experience with phones and ipods though, not pc parts! :-!


----------



## remedy

after 3 weeks my pump just randomly turns off, and only comes back on after being off for about 30 minutes.

i flushed the whole loop and then bled it really well to see if it would fix it, but nope, still dies randomly.

pretty disappointed.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Just installed it with a new case, etc. Fingers crossed.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It usually corrodes over time eventually shorting somewhere. Just my experience with phones and ipods though, not pc parts! :-!


Corrosion will not cause shorting, but if traces or components in the circuit are damaged by corrosion then the circuit would malfunction.

In any case, it looks like he should be fine... it looks like the water only got on the backplate, so the electronics should be fine. The white residue is probably the additives Swiftech adds to the water to inhibit corrosion and bacterial growth, or possibly the dye used to color it. I suspect it will wipe off with a damp paper towel. Still, it's good that he caught it before any damage was done! Hopefully the rest of the system will check out OK.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You can use the tubing you have, it is just that you need a 90 degree fitting going into the card to avoid that one kink. Also tape over the Swiftech fittings will keep them from getting scratched.


Thanks for the tip, sucks I already boogered them up. I think when the backplate comes in I am going to try to install it without fully draining/disassembling the loop. It was pretty difficult to get it all in there with just one person. I think it can be done, just need to remove all the screws carefully. Also I have one spare plastic washer, was that intentional?


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Just installed it with a new case, etc. Fingers crossed.


Runs about 48c max (22c room temp) at default 3570k settings.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thanks for the tip, sucks I already boogered them up. I think when the backplate comes in I am going to try to install it without fully draining/disassembling the loop. It was pretty difficult to get it all in there with just one person. I think it can be done, just need to remove all the screws carefully. Also I have one spare plastic washer, was that intentional?


I honestly don't know how yours it setup, but I know putting my Heatkiller backplate on without taking it out of the loop would be impossible. You have to unscrew everything, then screw in longer ones that hold the whole thing together. I would check with the people where you bought it. When I asked the watercooling guy at FrozenCpu he made it clear that I could not add the backplate later without taking everything apart. As far as another washer, I think I may have had an extra one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Runs about 48c max (22c room temp) at default 3570k settings.


Nice. Now get to ocing that thing.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I honestly don't know how yours it setup, but I know putting my Heatkiller backplate on without taking it out of the loop would be impossible. You have to unscrew everything, then screw in longer ones that hold the whole thing together. I would check with the people where you bought it. When I asked the watercooling guy at FrozenCpu he made it clear that I could not add the backplate later without taking everything apart. As far as another washer, I think I may have had an extra one.
> Nice. Now get to ocing that thing.


At my 4.5ghz default it was in the mid 70's after 15 minutes. Not too much different from the Zalman. May have to expand a bit.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I honestly don't know how yours it setup, but I know putting my Heatkiller backplate on without taking it out of the loop would be impossible. You have to unscrew everything, then screw in longer ones that hold the whole thing together. I would check with the people where you bought it. When I asked the watercooling guy at FrozenCpu he made it clear that I could not add the backplate later without taking everything apart. As far as another washer, I think I may have had an extra one.
> Nice. Now get to ocing that thing.


Thanks, may just wait and put it in when I change something else. I'll figure it out later, man I am stoked at how cool this thing is running. Load temps on stock ref cooler were low to mid 80's. Now at load it hasn't gone over 40 C.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Well, *BUMMER*!!









I am yet another victim of hoping for the best closed loop CPU cooler on the market. After about 3 days, and an otherwise perfect, brand new Intel 2011-based build, the fan speed errors started. I can hear the pump spinning up and then completely off while sticking my head in the case a bit... this happens in about 4-5 second intervals.

Tools for testing:

Asus in-BIOS tools
Intel's ETU
Asus Probe II
AIDA64 CPU/FPU Stress test
All tools reporting temps rising 10 degrees in 4 second span of time until the pump is back to max for 4-5 seconds. While under light use, like me typing a frustrating forum post, CPU idles at around 29C, CPU "fan" running at 1830'ish RPM reported by AIDA and Probe II. While under max load, pump is more erratic, temps start at 55C, then jump to appox 70C after 10 minutes, then pump kicks up again as stated previously. "Fan" speed under load goes from 2250 max to 0 every second.

Bypassed motherboard fan headers, using Swiftech supplied PDU with ONLY the Swiftech pump on the PDU powered via molex then connected to CPU fan header on the motherboard for readings only... same result across the board.

My systems specs for the record:

Intel Core i7-3820 - @Stock
Swiftech H220 Water Cooler - w/Corsair Air Series SP120
ASUS Rampage IV Formula
Corsair Dominator GT 16GB
Corsair Force GT SSD - RAID 0
WD Green 3TB HDD
ASUS GeForce GTX 670 4GB - SLI
OCZ Fatal1ty 1000W PSU
Corsair Obsidian 650D

Thankfully they are fairly easy to remove/install. Not sure if I will keep this RMA item whenever it comes. This is happening in WAY too many systems this last batch, and I can't afford to replace $650 worth of CPU and motherboard if the pump fails in the middle of the night.

This is frustrating because of the hopes dashed, as well as having to go through the process of replacement. Then having to do the research to decide if I should move on to something more reliable. The Corsair H100 was noisy and not nearly as high performance... but it worked without fail.

Sorry Swiftech team, I love your custom WC gear, but this China junk is BUNK!!

In the meantime please make it right... Thanks all!


----------



## paleh0rse14

For those of you worried about fan noise, it all comes down to fan selection and properly setting the curves for all of your fans.

My system, with three WC loops and push/pull all around, has 13 total fans, is completely silent at idle, and you can barely hear it when it's loaded while benching or gaming... and my temps are fantastic!

The 6 P's: Proper Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Thankfully they are fairly easy to remove/install. Not sure if I will keep this RMA item whenever it comes. This is happening in WAY too many systems this last batch, and I can't afford to replace $650 worth of CPU and motherboard if the pump fails in the middle of the night.
> 
> This is frustrating because of the hopes dashed, as well as having to go through the process of replacement. Then having to do the research to decide if I should move on to something more reliable. The Corsair H100 was noisy and not nearly as high performance... but it worked without fail.
> 
> Sorry Swiftech team, I love your custom WC gear, but this China junk is BUNK!!
> 
> In the meantime please make it right... Thanks all!


Completely anecdotal, but I've had zero functionality issues with my unit after over a month of 24/7 operation. A few speed bumps with my initial Speedfan configuration and one of my fans had some bearing noise (which was quickly replaced by Swiftech) have been my only issues.

I truly feel for the people who are having problems with the unit, I'm hopeful that Swiftech will be able narrow down the source of the problems. I'd like imagine we'll see a rev. 2 of the pump/block combo if they find an issue with the engineering. As for the manufacturing, I'm hopeful that the new facility will address any issues in this regard. I do cut them a little slack, only because they're actually making these units themselves and not using re-branded Coolit or Asetek units like Corsair or NZXT. That said I hope they can get past the growing pains and get these units as close to perfect as possible.


----------



## B3L13V3R

They are at the mercy of whatever manufacturer in China these are being put together in and that locations quality testing process (or lack thereof). These are not made in US like some of the stuff we all know and love from them, but it could very well be a design flaw.

Hopefully they are up front about that someday...

I just want it to work... got 3K into this rig so far and this was a stop gap until the real water-cooling project later this year.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I am not worried of the 139 € kit at all if that is what you meant, I am worried of the GTX 680 which costed me 565,90 €. I will contact the reseller and see what they will say. Probably they will contact Swiftech from there, but it's going to be a very long and futile process I'm afraid. I am not going to install this or any other H220 kit in any of my computers anymore. Neither will I buy the new H320 kit which I was planning to do. I don't have the time, patience or willpower to do it. Due to the pump issues, it could very well be that my 3960X has as well already degraded a bit from shutdown temperatures it was experiencing when overclocked.
> 
> I am not convinced of the quality of these kits. I have a few years of PC hardware RMA dept background myself, and I simply can't recommend this kit to anyone I know. I know that majority of the members here have a working kit, but now I've seen myself three failed kits and with two kinds of issues. Swiftech has admitted that there really have been some quality issues. Leaks can of course happen in any AIO system as well, but these issues have now gone beyond my patience. I installed my old issue-free H100 back today and I'm happy with it. I visually investigated my motherboard, RAMs and PSU and hope the coolant didn't ruin any of them.
> 
> These are my thoughts, hopefully the other members here have a better experience with the H220, especially in the long run.


Wow! I am very sorry to hear everything that has happened to you. I feel your frustration and its understandable. Even though swiftech sold you the kit through their distributor they should back up their product 100%. I hope nothing did get damaged in your computer, especially your 680.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Well, *BUMMER*!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet another victim of hoping for the best closed loop CPU cooler on the market. After about 3 days, and an otherwise perfect, brand new Intel 2011-based build, the fan speed errors started. I can hear the pump spinning up and then completely off while sticking my head in the case a bit... this happens in about 4-5 second intervals.
> 
> Tools for testing:
> 
> Asus in-BIOS tools
> Intel's ETU
> Asus Probe II
> AIDA64 CPU/FPU Stress test
> All tools reporting temps rising 10 degrees in 4 second span of time until the pump is back to max for 4-5 seconds. While under light use, like me typing a frustrating forum post, CPU idles at around 29C, CPU "fan" running at 1830'ish RPM reported by AIDA and Probe II. While under max load, pump is more erratic, temps start at 55C, then jump to appox 70C after 10 minutes, then pump kicks up again as stated previously. "Fan" speed under load goes from 2250 max to 0 every second.
> 
> Bypassed motherboard fan headers, using Swiftech supplied PDU with ONLY the Swiftech pump on the PDU powered via molex then connected to CPU fan header on the motherboard for readings only... same result across the board.
> 
> My systems specs for the record:
> 
> Intel Core i7-3820 - @Stock
> Swiftech H220 Water Cooler - w/Corsair Air Series SP120
> ASUS Rampage IV Formula
> Corsair Dominator GT 16GB
> Corsair Force GT SSD - RAID 0
> WD Green 3TB HDD
> ASUS GeForce GTX 670 4GB - SLI
> OCZ Fatal1ty 1000W PSU
> Corsair Obsidian 650D
> 
> Thankfully they are fairly easy to remove/install. Not sure if I will keep this RMA item whenever it comes. This is happening in WAY too many systems this last batch, and I can't afford to replace $650 worth of CPU and motherboard if the pump fails in the middle of the night.
> 
> This is frustrating because of the hopes dashed, as well as having to go through the process of replacement. Then having to do the research to decide if I should move on to something more reliable. The Corsair H100 was noisy and not nearly as high performance... but it worked without fail.
> 
> Sorry Swiftech team, I love your custom WC gear, but this China junk is BUNK!!
> 
> In the meantime please make it right... Thanks all!


WoW another dead pump.....I am starting to get worried about the quality control on this units. I might be considering that eiseberg after all or just go full custom. Sorry to hear what happend, another h220 pump in the R.I.P dump


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> They are at the mercy of whatever manufacturer in China these are being put together in and that locations quality testing process (or lack thereof). These are not made in US like some of the stuff we all know and love from them, but it could very well be a design flaw.
> 
> Hopefully they are up front about that someday...
> 
> I just want it to work... got 3K into this rig so far and this was a stop gap until the real water-cooling project later this year.


All H220 is manufactured by Swiftech, no one else. Its done in there own factory.
What do you mean real watercooling? H220 is watercooling.


----------



## OneGun

Should i buy one of these for my 3570k and my two 7950s?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Should i buy one of these for my 3570k and my two 7950s?


If you looking into watercooling CPU+2xGPU, sure. But you will need another rad.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you looking into watercooling CPU+2xGPU, sure. But you will need another rad.


Looks like you are just using yours for your 3770k?Is it overkill if i only used it on my 3570k?Or would a H100i be better?I know where they have the H220 in stock so i should buy quick if i am going to cause they sell out fast..


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Well, *BUMMER*!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet another victim of hoping for the best closed loop CPU cooler on the market. After about 3 days, and an otherwise perfect, brand new Intel 2011-based build, the fan speed errors started. I can hear the pump spinning up and then completely off while sticking my head in the case a bit... this happens in about 4-5 second intervals.
> 
> Tools for testing:
> 
> Asus in-BIOS tools
> Intel's ETU
> Asus Probe II
> AIDA64 CPU/FPU Stress test
> All tools reporting temps rising 10 degrees in 4 second span of time until the pump is back to max for 4-5 seconds. While under light use, like me typing a frustrating forum post, CPU idles at around 29C, CPU "fan" running at 1830'ish RPM reported by AIDA and Probe II. While under max load, pump is more erratic, temps start at 55C, then jump to appox 70C after 10 minutes, then pump kicks up again as stated previously. "Fan" speed under load goes from 2250 max to 0 every second.
> 
> Bypassed motherboard fan headers, using Swiftech supplied PDU with ONLY the Swiftech pump on the PDU powered via molex then connected to CPU fan header on the motherboard for readings only... same result across the board.
> 
> My systems specs for the record:
> 
> Intel Core i7-3820 - @Stock
> Swiftech H220 Water Cooler - w/Corsair Air Series SP120
> ASUS Rampage IV Formula
> Corsair Dominator GT 16GB
> Corsair Force GT SSD - RAID 0
> WD Green 3TB HDD
> ASUS GeForce GTX 670 4GB - SLI
> OCZ Fatal1ty 1000W PSU
> Corsair Obsidian 650D
> 
> Thankfully they are fairly easy to remove/install. Not sure if I will keep this RMA item whenever it comes. This is happening in WAY too many systems this last batch, and I can't afford to replace $650 worth of CPU and motherboard if the pump fails in the middle of the night.
> 
> This is frustrating because of the hopes dashed, as well as having to go through the process of replacement. Then having to do the research to decide if I should move on to something more reliable. The Corsair H100 was noisy and not nearly as high performance... but it worked without fail.
> 
> Sorry Swiftech team, I love your custom WC gear, but this China junk is BUNK!!
> 
> In the meantime please make it right... Thanks all!


Have you tried it with just hooking the pump to the splitter and the splitter just to the molex, not hooking it to the mobo? It should run full speed this way but you should try it for testing to make sure you don't have either a faulty splitter or maybe bad PWM signal from your mobo.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Looks like you are just using yours for your 3770k?Is it overkill if i only used it on my 3570k?Or would a H100i be better?I know where they have the H220 in stock so i should buy quick if i am going to cause they sell out fast..


If you are just going to cool your cpu, and never want to water cool your gpus, or modify the unit with custom tubing or anything then the H100i is a logical alternative. You can read through the Hydro thread here to see it has its own issues all well - no product is perfect. Most would agree the H220 stock fans are quieter than the H100i stock fans.

If you want to cool your chip and your gpus then the H220 is a good choice, otherwise you have to go with a full custom unit for more money. Depending on how much you oc you would want another 240 or 360 or rad space.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you looking into watercooling CPU+2xGPU, sure. But you will need another rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you are just using yours for your 3770k?Is it overkill if i only used it on my 3570k?Or would a H100i be better?I know where they have the H220 in stock so i should buy quick if i am going to cause they sell out fast..
Click to expand...

Even if you cool your CPU only, H220 is still better than H110i. Quieter, performs better, adjustable, expandable and the service level of Swiftech is beyond what Corsair can do.
I will be adding a GPU to my loop later on.


----------



## Diablo85

Hey guys, I've got this near atrocious noise coming from my H220 that just started a couple of days ago. It sounds like a whirring/grinding noise and the noise is NOT coming from any of the 4 fans I have in a push/pull setup on the H220. I made a video about it. Help! Pardon the quality/darkness. I just woke up a few minutes ago and didn't turn any lights on in my room.




edit: fixed the video link


----------



## Sozin

Potential buyer here with question that I need answered before I pull the trigger on ordering one. I currently have a H80 cooling a 3570k (stock, always stock) in a Prodigy. My room is a little warm, resulting in higher than average temps: idles at 35-40, loads at 55-60.

My question is, can I expect the H220 to give me better temps? I'm also considering possibly expanding to adding a GPU as well, so I need to consider if that's a good decision based on how well this performs. What do you guys think, can I expect better performance than an H80?


----------



## gdubc

No overclock? I am on OCN, right? For no o.c. I dont think you would need a change. When you overclock or add to the loop is when the benefits of the h220 come thru, otherwise at stock they should perform fairly similar.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> No overclock? I am on OCN, right? For no o.c. I dont think you would need a change. When you overclock or add to the loop is when the benefits of the h220 come thru, otherwise at stock they should perform fairly similar.


Just you dont OC, dont mean nothing here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> Potential buyer here with question that I need answered before I pull the trigger on ordering one. I currently have a H80 cooling a 3570k (stock, always stock) in a Prodigy. My room is a little warm, resulting in higher than average temps: idles at 35-40, loads at 55-60.
> 
> My question is, can I expect the H220 to give me better temps? I'm also considering possibly expanding to adding a GPU as well, so I need to consider if that's a good decision based on how well this performs. What do you guys think, can I expect better performance than an H80?


You have the older H80 is what you have, not the H80i.
Idle temps would same, under load you should see a difference. As your ambient is warmer, temps will be higher.
As you want to add a gpu to the loop, H220 is ideal.
Here is a build with the H220.
Doing it right: Bitfenix Prodigy


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> No overclock? I am on OCN, right? For no o.c. I dont think you would need a change. When you overclock or add to the loop is when the benefits of the h220 come thru, otherwise at stock they should perform fairly similar.


I've never seen the benefit of it on a CPU, but what I wanted to see about was how it performs after adding a GPU to the loop. My 7950 runs too hot for me when overclocked, and being in a Prodigy limits exactly how I could build a custom loop, so this is where the H220 becomes very interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Just you dont OC, dont mean nothing here.
> You have the older H80 is what you have, not the H80i.
> Idle temps would same, under load you should see a difference. As your ambient is warmer, temps will be higher.
> As you want to add a gpu to the loop, H220 is ideal.
> Here is a build with the H220.
> Doing it right: Bitfenix Prodigy


I just don't like having high load temps (who does) and like I said, adding a GPU is what I'm looking for. Thanks for the link,I'll check it out.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

I posted above you. I can run the 3570k at default clock speed with temps staying around 50c max in Prime95.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> No overclock? I am on OCN, right? For no o.c. I dont think you would need a change. When you overclock or add to the loop is when the benefits of the h220 come thru, otherwise at stock they should perform fairly similar.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen the benefit of it on a CPU, but what I wanted to see about was how it performs after adding a GPU to the loop. My 7950 runs too hot for me when overclocked, and being in a Prodigy limits exactly how I could build a custom loop, so this is where the H220 becomes very interesting.
Click to expand...

Reason is to get more out of the cpu, to increase performance.
hence why you bought 3570k?

As for temps, is your H80 intake or exhaust?
What your airflow like with fans in your case?


----------



## $ilent

If this H220 costs around £110, would it be worth spending extra to buy a XSPC kit to cool my rig cpu n gpu?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Reason is to get more out of the cpu, to increase performance.
> hence why you bought 3570k?
> 
> As for temps, is your H80 intake or exhaust?
> What your airflow like with fans in your case?


H80 has two AF120s set to exhaust out the top of the case, I have another AF120 as an exhaust out to the back, and a Cooler Master 200mm fan as an intake in the front of the case.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> If this H220 costs around £110, would it be worth spending extra to buy a XSPC kit to cool my rig cpu n gpu?


Starting with an xspc kit is most likely going to cost more money in the end. Both kits are going to need you to buy extra parts to cool a GPU, extra rad, GPU block, fittings and tubing. The xspc kit should have enough tubing of course, but you are paying more up front depending on what kit you start with.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Starting with an xspc kit is most likely going to cost more money in the end. Both kits are going to need you to buy extra parts to cool a GPU, extra rad, GPU block, fittings and tubing. The xspc kit should have enough tubing of course, but you are paying more up front depending on what kit you start with.


Problem is for the decent D5 pump with XSPC it costs well over £200.

Also for a H220 would you guys recommend scythe typhoons 5400rpm, 1850rpm or 1450 rpm? The 5400rpm is obviously loudest and most expensive but im thinking you could plug em all into fan controller and set it really low most of the time and crank it right up when needed?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Problem is for the decent D5 pump with XSPC it costs well over £200.
> 
> Also for a H220 would you guys recommend scythe typhoons 5400rpm, 1850rpm or 1450 rpm? The 5400rpm is obviously loudest and most expensive but im thinking you could plug em all into fan controller and set it really low most of the time and crank it right up when needed?


No need to spend money on the most expensive fans if all you are going to do is slow them down. Get the AP15 and be done with them.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

I ran push/pull on my old Zalman with scythe ultra kaze's....after redoing the rig....it really is amazing how loud they are. I couldn't take the noise any more.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Starting with an xspc kit is most likely going to cost more money in the end. Both kits are going to need you to buy extra parts to cool a GPU, extra rad, GPU block, fittings and tubing. The xspc kit should have enough tubing of course, but you are paying more up front depending on what kit you start with.
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is for the decent D5 pump with XSPC it costs well over £200.
> 
> Also for a H220 would you guys recommend scythe typhoons 5400rpm, 1850rpm or 1450 rpm? The 5400rpm is obviously loudest and most expensive but im thinking you could plug em all into fan controller and set it really low most of the time and crank it right up when needed?
Click to expand...

The H220 is a low FPI rad. 12-13, which is more used for slower speed. 5400rpm is overkill, and since you are going to run lower speed, then the stock fans would be fine.
H220 comes with a 8way PWM splitter, depending on mobo some has 1 cpu header, while others have 2.
My mobo has 2, so H220 inCPU header, and PWM splitter with 8 PWM fans in Cpu_Opt header. All controlled software at lowest 30% speed. Dead silent.
When I need more speed, it will auto adjust to my temps.


----------



## $ilent

ok so 1850rpm typhoons to be used on the h220.

What is the name of the radiator used on the h220? Im guessing id would be wise and cost effective to buy a second rad if im to cool my cpu and gpu using the h220?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> ok so 1850rpm typhoons to be used on the h220.
> 
> What is the name of the radiator used on the h220? Im guessing id would be wise and cost effective to buy a second rad if im to cool my cpu and gpu using the h220?


The deign is like the MCRx20-QP which is 12fpi. The H220 rad is designed for low speed fans around 1200 rpm. Its more for quiet, but be effective too cool and expand.
If you want more constant cooling a 2nd rad is good with gpu.
1850rpm is fine. Try out the stock fans first before you decide to get new fans.
The fans I use is the Noctua NF-P12 PWM, fan speed is at 500rpm during idle, max speed is 1300rpm.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The deign is like the MCRx20-QP which is 12fpi. The H220 rad is designed for low speed fans around 1200 rpm. Its more for quiet, but be effective too cool and expand.
> If you want more constant cooling a 2nd rad is good with gpu.
> 1850rpm is fine. Try out the stock fans first before you decide to get new fans.
> The fans I use is the Noctua NF-P12 PWM, fan speed is at 500rpm during idle, max speed is 1300rpm.


Websites say if you gonna go with the QP you need fans to be at or less than 1200rpm, so the 1850rpm fans not too fast?

What would the difference be with the XP320?


----------



## flaubert

Hello!
Finally, i have mounted the new H220 water cooling on my pc.
I need any help for set the fan speed using SPEEDFAN program or other fan speed control program.

At this moment...my i3770k is overclocked to 4600 MHz.





I do not know anything for SpeedFan...please help me.

Screen from my Bios( Mobo=Z77X-UD5H)





I have a total of 4 Fans: two in the case a two from H220. Fan of H220 are: fan number two amd fan number three in the attached screen.

Thank You!


----------



## IronForge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Wow! I am very sorry to hear everything that has happened to you. I feel your frustration and its understandable. Even though swiftech sold you the kit through their distributor they should back up their product 100%. I hope nothing did get damaged in your computer, especially your 680.


I agree the products should be 100% supported, with the exception of heavy modification or abuse.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaubert*


you need to change the CPU control mode from Voltage to PWM.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you need to change the CPU control mode from Voltage to PWM.


Thanks ez12a, I posted your youtube link in a thread he opened but he had some trouble understanding the settings. I told him you are our resident expert, hopefully you can help him get it straighten out.


----------



## $ilent

Another way to control fans in gigabyte bios is to enter 3D bios and then at the bottom its got picture of fan, click on that and then change settings. I changed mine to disabled so that my fans run 100%.


----------



## Diablo85

bump: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3500#post_20092638


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The deign is like the MCRx20-QP which is 12fpi. The H220 rad is designed for low speed fans around 1200 rpm. Its more for quiet, but be effective too cool and expand.
> If you want more constant cooling a 2nd rad is good with gpu.
> 1850rpm is fine. Try out the stock fans first before you decide to get new fans.
> The fans I use is the Noctua NF-P12 PWM, fan speed is at 500rpm during idle, max speed is 1300rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> Websites say if you gonna go with the QP you need fans to be at or less than 1200rpm, so the 1850rpm fans not too fast?
> 
> What would the difference be with the XP320?
Click to expand...

The stock fans of the H220 is 1800rpm. The 1200rpm is a guideline to keep noise down. If you want to run 5k rpm fans, do it. it will be loud, and wont see significant gains.

The XP320 is 20fpi, and needs higher static pressure fans to move air though. Not in the case of faster rpm fans or higher CFM.
9-15fpi = low speed fans/lower SP (Push or pull is fine for 35mm under, 45mm+ P/P)
16-29 fpi = Faster fans with higher SP (Better in push/pull)
30fpi+ (Your system will start flying around)
This is my experience on this and how I see it works on my end.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> bump: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3500#post_20092638


i would try unplugging the fans and leaving the pump plugged in to test. If you change the pump speed does the sound change? Is your pump plugged into the splitter or directly into the CPU fan header?

my h220 pump makes a ticking noise at the lowest RPM (approx 1200) and for a split second during power on. I use mine at 1600 rpm and higher without any abnormal noise and performance. i have a feeling it might just stop working one day but i'll just RMA it at that point. It's being controlled through the splitter.

my guess is that it has to do with the balancing of the impeller/magnet assy from the factory.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> bump: http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/3500#post_20092638
> 
> 
> 
> i would try unplugging the fans and leaving the pump plugged in to test. If you change the pump speed does the sound change? Is your pump plugged into the splitter or directly into the CPU fan header?
> 
> my h220 pump makes a ticking noise at the lowest RPM and for a split second during power on. I use mine at 1600 rpm and higher without any abnormal noise and performance.
Click to expand...

my pump usually runs around 15 to 1600 rpm at idle, 2k + at load. I used the Asus fan xpert tool to put the pump to full speed and it was definitely ticking louder and could distinctly tell over the sound of the fans. My pump is plugged in directly to the splitter with my 4 cougar pwm fans plugged into the splitter as well.


----------



## ez12a

i think some QA audit is probably in order then.

Reach out to Bram for a replacement.


----------



## bond32

Noticed something interesting, anytime I set the pwm percentage below 40% which causes the pump to hover around 2000 RPM it shuts off. I am going to try disabling the smart fan control, see if that helps. Not that 2000 RPM is bad for me though.


----------



## flaubert

Ok thanks for suggestion *ez12a*....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Another way to control fans in gigabyte bios is to enter 3D bios and then at the bottom its got picture of fan, click on that and then change settings. I changed mine to disabled so that my fans run 100%.


But...if you changed to DISABLED as do the fans to spin at maximum?

Should I put the setting to DISABLED?


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i think some QA audit is probably in order then.
> 
> Reach out to Bram for a replacement.


i'm trying to avoid doing that. right now, after running the pump at full speed for 5 minutes or so, the ticking noise has died off and sounds like normal now.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Did a little testing today with the H220 on my still lidded 3570k. Results from running prime for only 30 minutes with a room temp of 22c. Pump on full blast for all tests.

Default (3.4/3.6 turbo boost): Max temp 51c
4.3ghz at 1.23v: Max temp 67c
4.5ghz at 1.27v: Max temp 77c
4.8ghz at 1.35v: Max temp 90c

Definitely, even with the lid on, warmer than I had been hoping.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Did a little testing today with the H220 on my still lidded 3570k. Results from running prime for only 30 minutes with a room temp of 22c. Pump on full blast for all tests.
> 
> Default (3.4/3.6 turbo boost): Max temp 51c
> 4.3ghz at 1.23v: Max temp 67c
> 4.5ghz at 1.27v: Max temp 77c
> 4.8ghz at 1.35v: Max temp 90c
> 
> Definitely, even with the lid on, warmer than I had been hoping.


Missing a few info?
What you use for de-lidded?
Thermal paste used?
Setup of H220?
Speed and type of fans for H220?
Case fan setup and speed?
Any restriction or obstacles blocking airflow?


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Missing a few info?
> What you use for de-lidded?
> Thermal paste used?
> Setup of H220?
> Speed and type of fans for H220?
> Case fan setup and speed?
> Any restriction or obstacles blocking airflow?


Not delidded.
MX4
Standard push with stock fans (blowing outside air in)
2 140mm fans and a 120mm case fans on full tilt
No airflow obstructions.


----------



## MadGoat

Pump ended up getting so noisy I had to do something...

I drained the system through a coffee filter and flushed with distilled water... Ran the system through about a gallon of distilled off and on while pausing to tilt and shake the rad around to dislodge whatever might have been in there. Then refilled with the OG fluid and topped off with distilled water after having let it run while tilting for over an hour to rid the air from the system.

This is what I found:



whatever it is its metal... No more "grinding" or "gurgling"... My temps are much better now as well, about 4-5c full load lower (Didn't expect this... but amazed non the less).

ADDED: the dime was place for size reference next to the foreign black objects that came out of the loop.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Pump ended up getting so noisy I had to do something...
> 
> I drained the system through a coffee filter and flushed with distilled water... Ran the system through about a gallon of distilled off and on while pausing to tilt and shake the rad around to dislodge whatever might have been in there. Then refilled with the OG fluid and topped off with distilled water after having let it run while tilting for over an hour to rid the air from the system.
> 
> This is what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> whatever it is its metal... No more "grinding" or "gurgling"... My temps are much better now as well, about 4-5c full load lower (Didn't expect this... but amazed non the less).
> 
> ADDED: the dime was place for size reference next to the foreign black objects that came out of the loop.


I would have to guess that came out of the radiator.

Koolance makes a couple of different filters that look cool and use a larger metal screen that is probably lower in restriction. Never tried one myself but it would have probably prevented your debris issue and perhaps many others if installed between rad and pump.



















Might be something to consider..

I think the pump is just less debris tolerant than spherical bearing pumps. Not that you would expect to find that sort of debris, but it is a folded fin soldering constructed raditor where flux amd metal scaling is bound to happen. I have had my own share of debris finding in custom cooling parts. As much as we think parts are perfectly clean, it is mass production and crap does end up breaking loose over time even with really good cleaning up front. More rigorous cleaning at the factory may help, but I doubt it will prevent all. An inline filter "might" just be the simple protective solution to consider. Would be interesting as a test if nothing else.


----------



## NewHighScore

Hey folks. I'm considering purchasing this AIO as I have had a bad experience with the Corsair H100 in the past.

I am wondering if anyone knows if this unit will fit nicely on a MSI Z77 Mpower Motherboard and also if it fits in the Corsair 200r?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I would have to guess that came out of the radiator.
> 
> Koolance makes a couple of different filters that look cool and use a larger metal screen that is probably lower in restriction. Never tried one myself but it would have probably prevented your debris issue and perhaps many others if installed between rad and pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be something to consider..
> 
> I think the pump is just less debris tolerant than spherical bearing pumps. Not that you would expect to find that sort of debris, but it is a folded fin soldering constructed raditor where flux amd metal scaling is bound to happen. I have had my own share of debris finding in custom cooling parts. As much as we think parts are perfectly clean, it is mass production and crap does end up breaking loose over time even with really good cleaning up front. More rigorous cleaning at the factory may help, but I doubt it will prevent all. An inline filter "might" just be the simple protective solution to consider. Would be interesting as a test if nothing else.


its a great idea... and maybe should be included with a AIO like this. I am however very understanding of it... it happens, I work in the field and see it all the time. Im just glad I was lucky to be able to flush it out. ;-)

Thought I'd post my findings, and thanks for the filter heads up!


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Did a little testing today with the H220 on my still lidded 3570k. Results from running prime for only 30 minutes with a room temp of 22c. Pump on full blast for all tests.
> 
> Default (3.4/3.6 turbo boost): Max temp 51c
> 4.3ghz at 1.23v: Max temp 67c
> 4.5ghz at 1.27v: Max temp 77c
> 4.8ghz at 1.35v: Max temp 90c
> 
> Definitely, even with the lid on, warmer than I had been hoping.


That's about or a little better what I'm seeing, my temps hit 85c at 4.5 GHz on 1.28v with an ambient of 28c. This is using the Swiftech TIM.


----------



## mastahg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got this near atrocious noise coming from my H220 that just started a couple of days ago. It sounds like a whirring/grinding noise and the noise is NOT coming from any of the 4 fans I have in a push/pull setup on the H220. I made a video about it. Help! Pardon the quality/darkness. I just woke up a few minutes ago and didn't turn any lights on in my room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: fixed the video link


Got the same sound coming from my unit. RMA should be here monday.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I would have to guess that came out of the radiator.
> 
> Koolance makes a couple of different filters that look cool and use a larger metal screen that is probably lower in restriction. Never tried one myself but it would have probably prevented your debris issue and perhaps many others if installed between rad and pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might be something to consider..
> 
> I think the pump is just less debris tolerant than spherical bearing pumps. Not that you would expect to find that sort of debris, but it is a folded fin soldering constructed raditor where flux amd metal scaling is bound to happen. I have had my own share of debris finding in custom cooling parts. As much as we think parts are perfectly clean, it is mass production and crap does end up breaking loose over time even with really good cleaning up front. More rigorous cleaning at the factory may help, but I doubt it will prevent all. An inline filter "might" just be the simple protective solution to consider. Would be interesting as a test if nothing else.


The problem with your solution is that if one doesn't want to expand their system they will be having one problem after another. I am buying it as a closed loop with only future consideration tom expand. I should not have to install a filter to get 3 years of reliability from the pump. It is obligatory for Swiftech to fix the manufacturing technique on the radiator or redesign the pump to eliminate this potential problem.


----------



## IronForge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> i'm trying to avoid doing that. right now, after running the pump at full speed for 5 minutes or so, the ticking noise has died off and sounds like normal now.


Any downside to running the pump 100% all the time? (other than noise)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> *Not delidded*.
> MX4
> Standard push with stock fans (blowing outside air in)
> 2 140mm fans and a 120mm case fans on full tilt
> No airflow obstructions.


Well there you go.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronForge*
> 
> Any downside to running the pump 100% all the time? (other than noise)


Minimal temperature gains over 50%, 1-2c. The noise just isn't worth it unless you're going for a maximum stable OC.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Minimal temperature gains over 50%, 1-2c. The noise just isn't worth it unless you're going for a maximum stable OC.


How would I go about controlling a H220 pump with my motherboard? I don't understand my fan control options in my BIOS. I have the X79 UP4 with latest Beta BIOS and I plan to use the CPU fan header.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Minimal temperature gains over 50%, 1-2c. The noise just isn't worth it unless you're going for a maximum stable OC.
> 
> 
> 
> How would I go about controlling a H220 pump with my motherboard? I don't understand my fan control options in my BIOS. I have the X79 UP4 with latest Beta BIOS and I plan to use the CPU fan header.
Click to expand...

You would use Speedfan or mobo own fan control software.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You would use Speedfan or mobo own fan control software.


Not used the X79 boards, but on my Gigabyte UD5H the motherboard control and fan speed software is...poor. Speedfan is the way to go.


----------



## Sozin

I've been trying to research how well the H220 can cool a CPU+GPU combo on its own, but just about everything I see always has an extra 120mm rad. Having a Prodigy, I'm not going to try figure out getting another rad involved for a combo loop.

I don't overclock my CPU, but I do my GPU. I currently hit load at 60C and 85C respectively. Running a stock H220 with some nice fans to cool these things a worthy endeavor?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> I've been trying to research how well the H220 can cool a CPU+GPU combo on its own, but just about everything I see always has an extra 120mm rad. Having a Prodigy, I'm not going to try figure out getting another rad involved for a combo loop.
> 
> I don't overclock my CPU, but I do my GPU. I currently hit load at 60C and 85C respectively. Running a stock H220 with some nice fans to cool these things a worthy endeavor?


Sure it will







. An OC'd CPU dumps more heat usually than the GPU. The GPU has a much larger die so it can be cooled more effectively.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sure it will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . An OC'd CPU dumps more heat usually than the GPU. The GPU has a much larger die so it can be cooled more effectively.


As long as you don't have a GTX 480...might as well be a space heater.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You would use Speedfan or mobo own fan control software.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Not used the X79 boards, but on my Gigabyte UD5H the motherboard control and fan speed software is...poor. Speedfan is the way to go.


OK I will just use speed fan if I can't figure anything out in the BIOS. Cheers.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sure it will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . An OC'd CPU dumps more heat usually than the GPU. The GPU has a much larger die so it can be cooled more effectively.


What fans do you think I should use? Should I roll four of them?

I have a non-reference XFX 7950, which I know works against me, would you suggest keeping it and using a universal block or dumping it and finding a reference card and a full cover block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> As long as you don't have a GTX 480...might as well be a space heater.


You can fry an egg with one of those bad boys...


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> OK I will just use speed fan if I can't figure anything out in the BIOS. Cheers.


So it looks like the fan control is about the same as my board. You'll want to go into the BIOS and set the CPU fan to PWM control, you'll only have slope control in the BIOS itself. If you wan to use Speedfan you'll need to make sure you set it to Manual control, from there it's pretty easy to get set up.

ez12a is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to Speedfan, and I can help you as well if you need help setting it up on your system.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> OK I will just use speed fan if I can't figure anything out in the BIOS. Cheers.


Bradley have you got the h220 in the UK??

Ive found an amazon.co.uk link for the h220, says they only have 7 left in stock. It claims to be sold by Swiftech but the listing just doesnt look legit, virtually no details about the cooler and the pictures look random.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H220-Casing-Power-Supply/dp/B00BMMMRKG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_computers_2


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Bradley have you got the h220 in the UK??
> 
> Ive found an amazon.co.uk link for the h220, says they only have 7 left in stock. It claims to be sold by Swiftech but the listing just doesnt look legit, virtually no details about the cooler and the pictures look random.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H220-Casing-Power-Supply/dp/B00BMMMRKG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_computers_2


Hello!
This is being sold by WEBdanes, whoever he is.
You might be best buying from EU stores or North American stores. I should have my H220 on Monday! It landed in the UK on Friday. I checked on my tracking number for my parcel. I purchased from Netherlands shop called highflow.nl


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello!
> This is being sold by WEBdanes, whoever he is.
> You might be best buying from EU stores or North American stores. I should have my H220 on Monday! It landed in the UK on Friday. I checked on my tracking number for my parcel. I purchased from Netherlands shop called highflow.nl


Ahh thought you were gonna say you bought from specialtech, they emailed me other day after I enquired about the H220, they said they will have it in stock this week.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ahh thought you were gonna say you bought from specialtech, they emailed me other day after I enquired about the H220, they said they will have it in stock this week.


They told me the exact same thing 3 months ago. Swiftech are doing a rubbish job for us EU members. It is hard to get a H220 and support is crap due to the low stock.


----------



## $ilent

How much was the total cost for you to get your h220 here Bradley IYDMMA? Do we need to pay customs or is that only when buying from USA?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> How much was the total cost for you to get your h220 here Bradley IYDMMA? Do we need to pay customs or is that only when buying from USA?


You only pay customs for USA usually. EU organisation see the EU as one big country so customs charges are rare. I paid 170 Euros all in with shipping.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> You only pay customs for USA usually. EU organisation see the EU as one big country so customs charges are rare. I paid 170 Euros all in with shipping.


oof 30 euros shipping, ok cheers.

I think im gonna wait and see if any UK shop gets stock in, try get it for £110 mark


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> oof 30 euros shipping, ok cheers.
> 
> I think im gonna wait and see if any UK shop gets stock in, try get it for £110 mark


Well, here is the item and shipping is 26 Euro.
http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220-all-in-one-cpu-cooler.html
Hope this helps.


----------



## $ilent

Cheers, I'm not in a rush too much to get one so hopefully special tech or others will get it in stock in week or two.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Cheers, I'm not in a rush too much to get one so hopefully special tech or others will get it in stock in week or two.


I hope so, but I don't see it. Not yet.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronForge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> i'm trying to avoid doing that. right now, after running the pump at full speed for 5 minutes or so, the ticking noise has died off and sounds like normal now.
> 
> 
> 
> Any downside to running the pump 100% all the time? (other than noise)
Click to expand...

Yes. If it doesn't die down again, I have to wait and listen to its obnoxious noise until it does die down again.

edit: after about 20 minutes of running the pump and fans at full speed, the noise continues. just restarted the computer at the pump is running between 16-1800RPM and the tick is still there.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> What fans do you think I should use? Should I roll four of them?
> 
> I have a non-reference XFX 7950, which I know works against me, would you suggest keeping it and using a universal block or dumping it and finding a reference card and a full cover block?


The rad of the H220 is designed for quiet, and lower speed fans, so it doesn't benefit much from push/pull. As others have said, if you have your chip at stock the H220 should be fine cooling it and a gpu with no extra rads.

As far as the universal block goes, that would be up to you, it is really a personal choice. Swiftech can confirm which universal block and heatsinks you would need. A full cover block is the best solution for cooling, imo, but if you have to get a new card that seems like a lot of trouble/expense.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> I've been trying to research how well the H220 can cool a CPU+GPU combo on its own, but just about everything I see always has an extra 120mm rad. Having a Prodigy, I'm not going to try figure out getting another rad involved for a combo loop.
> 
> I don't overclock my CPU, but I do my GPU. I currently hit load at 60C and 85C respectively. Running a stock H220 with some nice fans to cool these things a worthy endeavor?


I think you might be ok with a stock clock CPU, but it really depends on the total heat produced and your tolerance to fan speed/noise. My 3930K puts out a massive 180W when hot and I was able to throttle the chip using prime 95 on the H220 when using the slowest fan speed of 800. 900 RPM barely passed. But 12 threads of prime at 100% is very much an artificial load. In regular use or when allowing the fans to ramp up the kit was more than adequate.

With that I think in general use about 100w per fan section is about max you would be really happy with using medium speeds. If you run a stock CPU at 100W and GPU at 100W it would probably be just fine. But a highly overclocked CPU and GPU I think lends itself to needing an extra 120 added. using the kit fans.

Alternatively you could probably use just the H220 rad if you upgraded the fans to something stronger with an overclocked CPU & GPU.

Fan speed and heat load are the keys. Anything is possible..







Put some 3000rpm deltas on there and you could probaly cool Hot overclcoked CPU + Hot SLI GPUs. I cant stand much more than about 1300rpm so count me out, but high speed fans make a huge difference. Get some gentle Typhoon AP-29s and PWM mod them..would make a nice high speed package.

Pretty typical to see upwards of 3-4x rad performance simply by increasing fan speeds from 800-3000 RPM.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The rad of the H220 is designed for quiet, and lower speed fans, so it doesn't benefit much from push/pull. As others have said, if you have your chip at stock the H220 should be fine cooling it and a gpu with no extra rads.
> 
> As far as the universal block goes, that would be up to you, it is really a personal choice. Swiftech can confirm which universal block and heatsinks you would need. A full cover block is the best solution for cooling, imo, but if you have to get a new card that seems like a lot of trouble/expense.


Yeah, it just depends on the total cost at the end of the day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I think you might be ok with a stock clock CPU, but it really depends on the total heat produced and your tolerance to fan speed/noise. My 3930K puts out a massive 180W when hot and I was able to throttle the chip using prime 95 on the H220 when using the slowest fan speed of 800. 900 RPM barely passed. But 12 threads of prime at 100% is very much an artificial load. In regular use or when allowing the fans to ramp up the kit was more than adequate.
> 
> With that I think in general use about 100w per fan section is about max you would be really happy with using medium speeds. If you run a stock CPU at 100W and GPU at 100W it would probably be just fine. But a highly overclocked CPU and GPU I think lends itself to needing an extra 120 added. using the kit fans.
> 
> Alternatively you could probably use just the H220 rad if you upgraded the fans to something stronger with an overclocked CPU & GPU.
> 
> Fan speed and heat load are the keys. Anything is possible..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put some 3000rpm deltas on there and you could probaly cool Hot overclcoked CPU + Hot SLI GPUs. I cant stand much more than about 1300rpm so count me out, but high speed fans make a huge difference. Get some gentle Typhoon AP-29s and PWM mod them..would make a nice high speed package.
> 
> Pretty typical to see upwards of 3-4x rad performance simply by increasing fan speeds from 800-3000 RPM.


I suppose I should have specified, I have a 3570k. I keep it at stock, and my 7950 is voltage locked, so my clocks on that top out at 1050/5600 anyway, so it's nothing crazy.

As far as fans go, there's no way I could stand some 3000rpm fans all day long, I want this thing as quiet as I can. On my H80 on the medium speed profile (1300-2200rpm I think) I have some AF120 Quiets which do the job fairly well I'd say. If I have to swap out the fans, I'm perfectly fine with that; I'll get whatever I have to to get a quiet sound system.


----------



## marc0053

Anyone know if the swiftech h220 would be much better at cooling a i7 3960x past 4.7ghz over the noctua d14?
Thanks in advance


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Anyone know if the swiftech h220 would be much better at cooling a i7 3960x past 4.7ghz over the noctua d14?
> Thanks in advance


Better yes, but much better - well everyone will define that differently. I would say you need extra rad space to get "much" better temps.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Anyone know if the swiftech h220 would be much better at cooling a i7 3960x past 4.7ghz over the noctua d14?
> Thanks in advance


No, it will probably be the same or within 5c of it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> No, it will probably be the same or within 5c of it.


5c is quite a bit better, in temps those are nice gains.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> No, it will probably be the same or within 5c of it.


That's interesting. I would have thought it would easily beat a D14 because a H110i wins them easy, and a H220 with better fans is about 10c better than the H100i. (Based on linus tech tips video)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It varies om ambient temps, which is key for watercooling, compare to air cooling.
Heatsink is limited as they can only dissipate so much heat on such a small frame. Over time temps will rise slowly under high stress for a long period of time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

You can have an idea of Noctua x corsair and h220 here:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6916/cooler-master-seidon-240m-and-12-more-coolers-the-retest-and-megaroundup/8


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can have an idea of Noctua x corsair and h220 here:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6916/cooler-master-seidon-240m-and-12-more-coolers-the-retest-and-megaroundup/8


Thanks for that link


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> That's interesting. I would have thought it would easily beat a D14 because a H110i wins them easy, and a H220 with better fans is about 10c better than the H100i. (Based on linus tech tips video)


Maybe its just aimbient temps related but I was talking to justanoldman and my temps were near enough same as his with my megahalems air cooler. The d14 is on pa with mega.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> 5c is quite a bit better, in temps those are nice gains.


I would disagree considering the H220 is meant to tempt people away from air cooling, 5c isnt very tempting, least not to me when it costs over a hundred quid.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Maybe its just aimbient temps related but I was talking to justanoldman and my temps were near enough same as his with my megahalems air cooler. The d14 is on pa with mega.
> I would disagree considering the H220 is meant to tempt people away from air cooling, 5c isnt very tempting, least not to me when it costs over a hundred quid.


Water cooling has never been a good return on its cost. Look how much people spend on custom loops.


----------



## King4x4

Water cooling = Maximum Performance at Maximum Silence.


----------



## justanoldman

I tested the H100i vs the H220, and so did some others here. I used the same NF-F12 fans on both of them, and they were within a margin of error of each other. One is not a lot better than the other. Based on stock fans though, the H220 can perform the same as the H100i at much better sound levels.

High end air units, cranked up, can perform almost as well as AIO or closed loop coolers. The review below has the H100i and H220 about the same, and both beating the NH-D14 by a few degrees. Every review is different, but anyone that thinks reasonably priced water will way outperform high end air is mistaken. High end water with extra rads, of course, is much better but much more expensive. As mentioned already, the H220 achieves it performance at lower sound levels than competing air or closed loop coolers.
http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220-lcs-all-in-one-water-cooler-review

I really like the H220, and recommend it to anyone who wants to expand it, customize it, or get a better sound profile, but I don't think people should be expecting a huge difference between it and high end air or other closed loop coolers as far as basic cooling goes.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Water cooling has never been a good return on its cost. Look how much people spend on custom loops.


I know that but do you really consider 5c temp difference good return on a £110+ watercooling unit vs a £40 air cooler?


----------



## Gabrielzm

It all depends on your goals in terms of CPU OC...Water usually have more legs to stretch in moderate to heavy OC. But if you are interested in just stock cooling and are ok with GPU noise then buy a Noctua one (or hell even a cm 212) and be done with it. But if you want to keep both cpu and gpu with very minimum noise and besides that want to OC the CPU then water is the way to go. It all depends on your goals...

BTW let me give you one example. I have a Noctua (NH-U12P SE2) as well as a H220. With the same OC and voltage the difference between the two coolers in prime 95 is about 8 C.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> I know that but do you really consider 5c temp difference good return on a £110+ watercooling unit vs a £40 air cooler?


I am not going to assume 5c is THE number for everyone. But lets says it is 5c, for the difference between the top air cooler price and the H220, its a fair price ratio IMHO. For a full custom loop, hell no, hence why I am glad I didn't build a custom loop.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am not going to assume 5c is THE number for everyone. But lets says it is 5c, for the difference between the top air cooler price and the H220, its a fair price ratio IMHO. For a full custom loop, hell no, hence why I am glad I didn't build a custom loop.


Hmm I guess we just have different views on what we consider value for money


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hmm I guess we just have different views on what we consider value for money


You have to remember though that he's comparing high-end air, which is NOT in the £/$40 category. High end air will cost about $80-120, not not far from the price of the H220. In the $40 category you have the CM 212 Evo, NZXT Respire, etc, which won't be nearly as up to snuff on significant overclocks.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You have to remember though that he's comparing high-end air, which is NOT in the £/$40 category. High end air will cost about $80-120, not not far from the price of the H220. In the $40 category you have the CM 212 Evo, NZXT Respire, etc, which won't be nearly as up to snuff on significant overclocks.


A lot of people don't realize that at mild overclocks units like the H100, X60 and H220 don't show their true value. A Hyper 212 is more than enough for someone who only plans to run at 4.3Ghz and use it for gaming and general computing. The H220 and other coolers like it will allow you to push your chip to 4.5Ghz+ and use it for folding or other CPU intense tasks for extended periods.


----------



## Gerbacio

where could i purchase one of these?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> where could i purchase one of these?


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2codriipl.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37174


----------



## Reptar

Does the H220 have pre applied thermal paste? Or do I need to buy some, and if so, which is the best?


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Comes with TIM, but it is not pre-applied.


----------



## Reptar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Comes with TIM, but it is not pre-applied.


Awesome, thanks


----------



## BradleyW

Which is better, Swiftech TIM or thermalright CFIII?


----------



## UnknownXV

I want to get the H220 pretty bad, but everytime I try to get it it seems to be out of stock. I'm in Canada looking at newegg, NCIX, tigerdirect doesn't even have it listed, nor does amazon. Is there anywhere I can buy this in Canada? Shipping from the US apparently would cost me a fortune in customs, duty taxes and bs like that.


----------



## marc0053

NCIX has a few in stock
http://www.ncix.com/search/?categoryid=0&q=Swiftech+h220


----------



## UnknownXV

Oh, they have the ETA early June, pre order now at the top for NCIX's listing, I didn't realize it was in stock. Excellent.


----------



## Gerbacio

this will be my first ever water cooler experiment!

should the h220 be my first??

i have a 770 lightning otw ...so it will be cpu and 1 video card...maybe 2 down the line


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Which is better, Swiftech TIM or thermalright CFIII?


I didnt really see a difference between the Swiftech TIM and my IC Diamond, so don't hesitate to try it.


----------



## bond32

Well, woke up and turned my pc on to hear some awful noise coming from the pump. Makes me very nervous. Pump is running fine and temps are fine. Noise seems to be mostly gone at this point. I normally run the pump around 2600 RPM.


----------



## Nightz2k

Reporting on the RMA I had recently, new unit came in last week, so far it's working fine. That clicking noise _(that some others have had as well)_ was actually just an air bubble of all things. It's like trapped air in the pump, you have to open the fillport, let it run a bit, if the noise persists, move the rad around a little and also squeeze the tubing a little, not too hard obviously. It seems to push the air bubble_(s)_ out eventually. I also have it installed with the fillport facing up so I will have less chance of any air bubbles now.









Bryan (BramSLI1) helped me through it once he figured out what was wrong with the last unit I had.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Reporting on the RMA I had recently, new unit came in last week, so far it's working fine. That clicking noise _(that some others have had as well)_ was actually just an air bubble of all things. It's like trapped air in the pump, you have to open the fillport, let it run a bit, if the noise persists, move the rad around a little and also squeeze the tubing a little, not too hard obviously. It seems to push the air bubble_(s)_ out eventually. I also have it installed with the fillport facing up so I will have less chance of any air bubbles now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bryan (BramSLI1) helped me through it once he figured out what was wrong with the last unit I had.


Glad to hear the new unit is running well for you, also glad to hear that your issue was fixable...just hard to diagnose. Hopefully it will help others with the same noise.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I didnt really see a difference between the Swiftech TIM and my IC Diamond, so don't hesitate to try it.


Cheers for the input.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Reporting on the RMA I had recently, new unit came in last week, so far it's working fine. That clicking noise _(that some others have had as well)_ was actually just an air bubble of all things. It's like trapped air in the pump, you have to open the fillport, let it run a bit, if the noise persists, move the rad around a little and also squeeze the tubing a little, not too hard obviously. It seems to push the air bubble_(s)_ out eventually. I also have it installed with the fillport facing up so I will have less chance of any air bubbles now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bryan (BramSLI1) helped me through it once he figured out what was wrong with the last unit I had.


Glad to hear it. Let me know if you have any other issues or concerns.


----------



## Skullwipe

Well, first result I've seen. 20c drop in temps on a Haswell after a delid and MX2 application...with the stock cooler.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club/18730#post_20106947

Looks like Intel is using the same low quality TIM and application method.


----------



## Hawxie

Hi, I'm considering the H220, although I will be changing out the tubing for Primohill crystal clear tubing, and XSPC Clear/UV blue coolant, but would it be bad, if I put the radiator in the front of my Define R4? But before that, I would fill the loop, and then let it run for a good 12-24 hours with the reservoir above the pump, untill I can't spot any air.

Would it then be safe to put it in the front?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Hi, I'm considering the H220, although I will be changing out the tubing for Primohill crystal clear tubing, and XSPC Clear/UV blue coolant, but would it be bad, if I put the radiator in the front of my Define R4? But before that, I would fill the loop, and then let it run for a good 12-24 hours with the reservoir above the pump, untill I can't spot any air.
> 
> Would it then be safe to put it in the front?


Yes, that should be fine as long as you've gotten all of the air out first before finally installing it. Just make sure that the reservoir is sitting at the top of the radiator when you install it in the front of your case so that the reservoir can still act as an air trap. This will become necessary when the coolant starts to evaporate after several months of use.


----------



## Diablo85

Good news is that my ticking noise seems to have subsided for now after running the pump with the fill port off at full speed for over an hour. Some of that was while playing BF3. Thanks Bryan for the help.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> Good news is that my ticking noise seems to have subsided for now after running the pump with the fill port off at full speed for over an hour. Some of that was while playing BF3. Thanks Bryan for the help.


No problem. Let me know if you have any further concerns or issues. Just to let everyone here know that most of the time the noises that come from the pump are just air bubbles that have gotten pulled into it.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that should be fine as long as you've gotten all of the air out first before finally installing it. Just make sure that the reservoir is sitting at the top of the radiator when you install it in the front of your case so that the reservoir can still act as an air trap. This will become necessary when the coolant starts to evaporate after several months of use.


Fantastic c:


----------



## bond32

Is there any way to install an air trap in the loop? Would a regular tee work fine? My rads are both horizontally mounted so occasionally I hear water noise, but I want it to perform the best it can.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there any way to install an air trap in the loop? Would a regular tee work fine? My rads are both horizontally mounted so occasionally I hear water noise, but I want it to perform the best it can.


Yes, a tee with a bit of tubing on it and a cap will work fine as an air trap/ reservoir. Martin of Martinsliquidlabs has already confirmed this as a solution for those that have to run their kits with the fill port facing down.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there any way to install an air trap in the loop? Would a regular tee work fine? My rads are both horizontally mounted so occasionally I hear water noise, but I want it to perform the best it can.


Shameless plug









(1) of the these:



plus (1) of these:



plus either (1) of these:



Plus 3x fittings of your choice, for example these:



and finally some tubing of your choice, preferably transparent to see the size of the bubble, and you are done


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> They told me the exact same thing 3 months ago. Swiftech are doing a rubbish job for us EU members. It is hard to get a H220 and support is crap due to the low stock.


I am sorry that you feel that way, but we are just as committed to the EU as we are to the US. If you have a problem with an RMA, you can always email me ([email protected]) or bryan ([email protected]) and we will do everything we can to speed things up. We can miss things sometimes, as we are only people, but all it takes is a gentle reminder, and we get things done


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> Yeah, it just depends on the total cost at the end of the day.
> I suppose I should have specified, I have a 3570k. I keep it at stock, and my 7950 is voltage locked, so my clocks on that top out at 1050/5600 anyway, so it's nothing crazy.
> 
> As far as fans go, there's no way I could stand some 3000rpm fans all day long, I want this thing as quiet as I can. On my H80 on the medium speed profile (1300-2200rpm I think) I have some AF120 Quiets which do the job fairly well I'd say. If I have to swap out the fans, I'm perfectly fine with that; I'll get whatever I have to to get a quiet sound system.


My personal opinion experience: non overclocked or medium overclocked CPU + any current single GPU card and you are fine with the kit as shipped, with our fans at low speed (1300 for example).


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> My personal opinion experience: non overclocked or medium overclocked CPU + any current single GPU card and you are fine with the kit as shipped, with our fans at low speed (1300 for example).


Have you tried a stock CPU with an overclocked GPU? I'm mulling around the idea of getting a 7970 or a 670 and I would aim for one that I could overclock and slap a block onto it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Pump ended up getting so noisy I had to do something...
> 
> I drained the system through a coffee filter and flushed with distilled water... Ran the system through about a gallon of distilled off and on while pausing to tilt and shake the rad around to dislodge whatever might have been in there. Then refilled with the OG fluid and topped off with distilled water after having let it run while tilting for over an hour to rid the air from the system.
> 
> This is what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> whatever it is its metal... No more "grinding" or "gurgling"... My temps are much better now as well, about 4-5c full load lower (Didn't expect this... but amazed non the less).
> 
> ADDED: the dime was place for size reference next to the foreign black objects that came out of the loop.


When and where did you purchase this kit..

It is absolutely essential for us to know about this. We have implemented all kind of measures to prevent this from happening in the April & May shipments, and if we still find debris, we need to understand where it's coming from..

FYI, we do implement systematic flushing (with 60 PSI & distilled water) of the radiators prior to filling the kits.


----------



## savagepagan

Has anyone replaced the stock fans on this unit and have your temps improved any and what fans you used. I hear that static pressure fans are not really needed for this radiator as it has 13fpi according to martinsliquidlab.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/2/


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the stock fans on this unit and have your temps improved any and what fans you used. I hear that static pressure fans are not really needed for this radiator as it has 13fpi according to martinsliquidlab.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/2/


I did not actually test the stock fans, I did replace mine with Noctua NF F12 fans based on what Linus showed in his redux video review.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the stock fans on this unit and have your temps improved any and what fans you used. I hear that static pressure fans are not really needed for this radiator as it has 13fpi according to martinsliquidlab.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/2/


GT Ap-15s squeezed a few more degrees out of the h220 for me. I'd est. around 2C improvement.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> Have you tried a stock CPU with an overclocked GPU? I'm mulling around the idea of getting a 7970 or a 670 and I would aim for one that I could overclock and slap a block onto it.


Yes I have, and in my experience, it's no problem.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I did not actually test the stock fans, I did replace mine with Noctua NF F12 fans based on what Linus showed in his redux video review.


Linus is not a reviewer I would trust at all. His methods are in question. The NF-F12 is designed to be used as push. Pull can be done, but pointless as other fans will do better.
I use the stock, P12/F12 and in push. P12/F12 is 1-2c better than stock at 1200rpm. At its max speed there was no difference.
Tried the F12 in pull, and got worse temps and terrible noise profile.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Linus is not a reviewer I would trust at all. His methods are in question. The NF-F12 is designed to be used as push. Pull can be done, but pointless as other fans will do better.
> I use the stock, P12/F12 and in push. P12/F12 is 1-2c better than stock at 1200rpm. At its max speed there was no difference.
> Tried the F12 in pull, and got worse temps and terrible noise profile.


If he is not a reviewer then what is he? He was side by side with Gabe at CES with the H220. I also tried the NF F12 in both push and pull, temps didn't change.


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Well crap....4 days of use and the pump has already gotten noticeable louder. No pump drop outs or anything, but disconcerting none the less.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Well crap....4 days of use and the pump has already gotten noticeable louder No pump drop outs or anything, but disconcerting none the less.


Jeez...I feel like these posts keep coming up recently.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

I just installed my H220! However, I am having a hard time controlling my fan and pump speeds. They both appear to be running at 100% all the time, as I was able to hook it up a certain way and determined that the Fans were running at 1800 +-20 and the pump at 3250 +-50. I thought the pump's max was 3,000 though? And no matter what I do in the bios I can't seem to manage to get any control over it.

Mobo: MSI Z77-G41


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> I just installed my H220! However, I am having a hard time controlling my fan and pump speeds. They both appear to be running at 100% all the time, as I was able to hook it up a certain way and determined that the Fans were running at 1800 +-20 and the pump at 3250 +-50. I thought the pump's max was 3,000 though? And no matter what I do in the bios I can't seem to manage to get any control over it.
> 
> Mobo: MSI Z77-G41


I found you a guide on how to get Speedfan working with your MSI board.

http://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=109858.0

Edit: This doesn't appear to be for Z77 boards, and none are listed on Speedfans site. Check page 2-8 of your manual for PWM settings in the BIOS.


----------



## michael-ocn

3000 rpm +/- 10%, I'd say the pump in in the right range for fully powered operation and the fans too.

Looks like your mobo has 1x PWM enabled fan header labeled CPUFAN, and 4x regular fan headers labeled SYSFAN1 thru 4. The "Hardware Monitor" section in the BIOS should let you fiddle with things... in particular this setting...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU Smart Fan Target
Controls CPU fan speed automatically depending on the current temperature and
to keep it with a specific range. If the current CPU temperature reaches the target
value, the smart fan function will be activated.



I would think you want all three devices (pump + 2x fans) controlled by your mobo's CPUFAN PWM signal. So you'd use the splitter plugged into that that header, and put all 3 devices on the spitter.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> 3000 rpm +/- 10%, I'd say the pump in in the right range for fully powered operation and the fans too.
> 
> Looks like your mobo has 1x PWM enabled fan header labeled CPUFAN, and 4x regular fan headers labeled SYSFAN1 thru 4. The "Hardware Monitor" section in the BIOS should let you fiddle with things... in particular this setting...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Smart Fan Target
> Controls CPU fan speed automatically depending on the current temperature and
> to keep it with a specific range. If the current CPU temperature reaches the target
> value, the smart fan function will be activated.
> 
> 
> 
> I would think you want all three devices (pump + 2x fans) controlled by your mobo's CPUFAN PWM signal. So you'd use the splitter plugged into that that header, and put all 3 devices on the spitter.


I have it setup this way and have tried multiple settings. I can now hear the fans speed up and down, but the pump appears to stay at 100%


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> I have it setup this way and have tried multiple settings. I can now hear the fans speed up and down, but the pump appears to stay at 100%


Hmmm... so since the fans ramp up/down, mobos PWM signal must be doing something. Some rough ideas about isolating the problem to the lead or the device?

The pwm signal on the lead off the splitter that's plugged into the pump, that might be busted. If you swap leads such that a lead currently on a fan that changes speed is put on the pump instead. Does the problem follow the lead or stay with he device?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> All H220 is manufactured by Swiftech, no one else. Its done in there own factory.
> What do you mean real watercooling? H220 is watercooling.


Do I really need to take a picture of the side of the box for you...? Go look at yours. Bottom of a side panel. "designed by Swiftech in the USA, Made in China"


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Have you tried it with just hooking the pump to the splitter and the splitter just to the molex, not hooking it to the mobo? It should run full speed this way but you should try it for testing to make sure you don't have either a faulty splitter or maybe bad PWM signal from your mobo.


Yeah, read post again...

_"Bypassed motherboard fan headers, using Swiftech supplied PDU with ONLY the Swiftech pump on the PDU powered via molex then connected to CPU fan header on the motherboard for readings only..."_


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hmmm... so since the fans ramp up/down, mobos PWM signal must be doing something. Some rough ideas about isolating the problem to the lead or the device?
> 
> The pwm signal on the lead off the splitter that's plugged into the pump, that might be busted. If you swap leads such that a lead currently on a fan that changes speed is put on the pump instead. Does the problem follow the lead or stay with he device?


I do not have time tonight and will be out of town for a few days, but I will attempt to narrow it down when I am back!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> All H220 is manufactured by Swiftech, no one else. Its done in there own factory.
> What do you mean real watercooling? H220 is watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Do I really need to take a picture of the side of the box for you...? Go look at yours. Bottom of a side panel. "designed by Swiftech in the USA, Made in China"
Click to expand...

The manufacturing is done by Swiftech own factory. Which is in China.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Submitted RMA... Fairly annoying...

I will say that the Corsair H100 still doesn't touch the H220 (even broken) now that I have to use the H100 until the replacement arrives.

Makes this even more painful...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The manufacturing is done by Swiftech own factory. Which is in China.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Submitted RMA... Fairly annoying...
> 
> I will say that the Corsair H100 still doesn't touch the H220 (even broken) now that I have to use the H100 until the replacement arrives.
> 
> Makes this even more painful...


dang... sorry to hear about that...
how long is the process? and did you have to pay for shipping?


----------



## savagepagan

Has anyone replaced the stock radiator with one of higher fan density?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Has anyone replaced the stock radiator with one of higher fan density?


Problem with higher FPI is that you need stronger static pressure and faster speeds to push/pull air through.
H220 rad is 12 or 13fpi, Which is a good ratio for rads.
They cool effective as a high fpi rads, without the need to increase noise.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> unless you zip tie fans or mod the case, it's pretty much impossible to do push pull in a 600t with any dual 120mm cooler.


In a 600T, you can do push pull if you use Scythe "Slipstream" slim profile fans; perhaps not the best solution but I've seen a 2C drop using them in my own 600T (not a Swiftech kit, though, so be aware) ... not sure if the same would work with the Swiftech kit or not...

...



...

That said, I'll be upgrading to a Swiftech kit soon, just need to research the installation in a 600T case a bit more before pulling the trigger.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*


Check out Swiftech's facebook page. They have all kinds of photos of the new facilities they purchased and set up shop in ShenZen. Gabe flies there regularly to oversee productions. That's why he's very adamant about finding out all the details of these RMAs. Not because he's trying to be rude or point fingers, but because he candidly and ferverously wants to make these issues a things of the past and do everything in his power to make sure his customers, his fellow enthusiasts, are taken care of and happy. This passion and determination is inherent n his hand picked staff as well. In my opinion you won't find another company more committed to their end customer than Swiftech.


----------



## Silvaire

I'm sure that's all true, but it's also bad for business and I'm sure they know that, especially considering that this is an enthusiast product. And what do enthusiasts do more often? Read forums. This still remains a considerable problem based on the amount of people registering here to get RMA's and I myself am holding off on purchasing because the risks are too high.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I'm sure that's all true, but it's also bad for business and I'm sure they know that, especially considering that this is an enthusiast product. And what do enthusiasts do more often? Read forums. This still remains a considerable problem based on the amount of people registering here to get RMA's and I myself am holding off on purchasing because the risks are too high.


That doesn't really make any sense. Multiple swiftech reps have been very active on these said forums to help identify problem areas and get them resolved. Because of this fantastic customer service, that would sway me to purchase more swiftech products. They have fantastic communication, and I haven't had any real problems yet I just read what they post for others.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I'm sure that's all true, but it's also bad for business and I'm sure they know that, especially considering that this is an enthusiast product. And what do enthusiasts do more often? Read forums. This still remains a considerable problem based on the amount of people registering here to get RMA's and I myself am holding off on purchasing because the risks are too high.


Like it has been stated before you always here more about the bad units than you do about the ones working perfectly.

I bought my unit day one directly from Swiftech, and have had no issues at all. I have also added a GPU to the loop, and in doing so inspected the liquid coming out when I expanded it. I found no particles whatsoever in my liquid, and have had no pump or noise issues. I think more of us with great units need to speak up more.


----------



## Phelan

Agreed. Keep in mind too that this is a brand new product as well. It's been three years in development, but not everything can be found at that level. Sometimes you just get a bad apple working at the facility as well, or even just a person having a bad day, and mistakes will come from it.

But the vast majority of people, such as myself and colforbin, haven't spoken up about their flawless units (until just now).


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I'm sure that's all true, but it's also bad for business and I'm sure they know that, especially considering that this is an enthusiast product. And what do enthusiasts do more often? Read forums. This still remains a considerable problem based on the amount of people registering here to get RMA's and I myself am holding off on purchasing because the risks are too high.


High risk? It is only a handful off people with issues. I myself have yet to have any issues, I had two problems out of the 12 so far that i dealt with. I would say that is good.
Most people who post here has been members before they even bought the H220. Not everyone has issues.
Support level of Swiftech is beyond anyone can do.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> In a 600T, you can do push pull if you use Scythe "Slipstream" slim profile fans; perhaps not the best solution but I've seen a 2C drop using them in my own 600T (not a Swiftech kit, though, so be aware) ... not sure if the same would work with the Swiftech kit or not...
> 
> ...


The p8z68 8 pin CPU connector touches the underside of the radiator and prevents a fan from being installed. I couldn't do push pull with the fans mounted normally, thin or not.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That doesn't really make any sense. Multiple swiftech reps have been very active on these said forums to help identify problem areas and get them resolved. Because of this fantastic customer service, that would sway me to purchase more swiftech products. They have fantastic communication, and I haven't had any real problems yet I just read what they post for others.


Hopefully they get their problems resolved. Sometimes a good customer service is not enough if the products are not at the same level. H220 already damaged my 680 due to a leak, which I don't see I could have produced myself. I just plugged the unit in. They already said they don't anything about it because I didn't buy the "Swiftech"-labeled kit they are supporting here directly from their own shop. I feel it's like a slap in the face because they have admitted that there have been problems in the manufacturing process or quality and I feel like I am the one they are blaming now for the problems in their own product. I live in a small country outside the USA so maybe this could have something to do with it, I don't know. I am a member on a hardware enthusiast forum in our country and the discussion is that there are a handful of people owning the H220 and there's only one, yes only one member who has not had any problems. Yet. It's not only me with multiple RMAs already. Probably their issues get sorted now when the new working batch is already available, who knows.

It's very nice to see the reps around here but the real quality of the customer support would be measured in the worst cases.


----------



## Silvaire

I never said anything about their communication. I also agree that they seem very responsive. I'm merely trying to bring some of the perceptions back down to earth. This is a business and what they are doing makes good business sense because they are literally and figuratively doing damage control to their reputation right now. Whether or not you believe that manufacturing problems have been resolved in the factory they contract with in China, the fact is the Internet is rife with not only people registering on forums to access direct support from Swiftech, but also you have many people with repeated failures with different devices. Now, we can look at any number of aggravating factors that might account for one person having such bad luck, but I don't think that's fair to the consumer that is purchasing a product that is supposed to work if you follow the instructions. I'd be curious to know what percentage of customers of the H220 have experience with water cooling, and what percentage are people like me with absolutely none and looking for an easy transition into it. Obviously these kinds of problems have a big impact with the latter camp, whereas the former camp can just say "oh, it's really easy, I spoke to them and they told me how to disassemble it, flush the system through a coffee filter, refill, top it off, and good to go," but that isn't realistic for a mass market product with a warranty to work as-is.

That said, I think Swiftech is doing the right thing, and they seem like a nice small business. This is the double-edged sword of being a small business. I can only tell you that as a person that does a lot of research on every product I buy, for good or bad, and with extensive knowledge of the practices of Internet forums, I have been dissuaded from purchasing one because the risks (putting air cooler back in if have to RMA or clean it out myself) outweigh the benefits (lower C numbers and higher overclock). I bought a new case and case fans just for transitioning to an AIO. I'm waiting til I see more evidence that the flaws have been worked out in the majority of products that are actually on retailer shelves (Newegg).

You can dismiss my decisions, but I don't think they are illogical, and I'm sure there are many more people on the fence like me and Swiftech knows this and that is why it is a serious problem. I hope they can resolve it.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> The p8z68 8 pin CPU connector touches the underside of the radiator and prevents a fan from being installed. I couldn't do push pull with the fans mounted normally, thin or not.


Me either


----------



## Jiiks

Anyone have it installed on a Fractal Define R2/will it fit without any modifications?


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Mine is in an R4...no fitment problems, though it is a bit tight with the cpu power plug.


----------



## Jiiks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Mine is in an R4...no fitment problems, though it is a bit tight with the cpu power plug.


Only problem i could see is that the R2 mobo is mounted so high:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Is it that high on the R4?

Depth is almost identical tho
R2:521.2m
R4:523mm


----------



## IronForge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I never said anything about their communication. I also agree that they seem very responsive. I'm merely trying to bring some of the perceptions back down to earth. This is a business and what they are doing makes good business sense because they are literally and figuratively doing damage control to their reputation right now. Whether or not you believe that manufacturing problems have been resolved in the factory they contract with in China, the fact is the Internet is rife with not only people registering on forums to access direct support from Swiftech, but also you have many people with repeated failures with different devices. Now, we can look at any number of aggravating factors that might account for one person having such bad luck, but I don't think that's fair to the consumer that is purchasing a product that is supposed to work if you follow the instructions. I'd be curious to know what percentage of customers of the H220 have experience with water cooling, and what percentage are people like me with absolutely none and looking for an easy transition into it. Obviously these kinds of problems have a big impact with the latter camp, whereas the former camp can just say "oh, it's really easy, I spoke to them and they told me how to disassemble it, flush the system through a coffee filter, refill, top it off, and good to go," but that isn't realistic for a mass market product with a warranty to work as-is.
> 
> That said, I think Swiftech is doing the right thing, and they seem like a nice small business. This is the double-edged sword of being a small business. I can only tell you that as a person that does a lot of research on every product I buy, for good or bad, and with extensive knowledge of the practices of Internet forums, I have been dissuaded from purchasing one because the risks (putting air cooler back in if have to RMA or clean it out myself) outweigh the benefits (lower C numbers and higher overclock). I bought a new case and case fans just for transitioning to an AIO. I'm waiting til I see more evidence that the flaws have been worked out in the majority of products that are actually on retailer shelves (Newegg).
> 
> You can dismiss my decisions, but I don't think they are illogical, and I'm sure there are many more people on the fence like me and Swiftech knows this and that is why it is a serious problem. I hope they can resolve it.


Well said.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys, i have a problem with my H200.
I install the h220 the last week and work fine but the problems started yesterday, the pump don't work and the fans yes. I try connect directly and nothing, same case setting the bios and the profile in fan expert.

With stock fan



With H220



What can i do? should i send it to warranty?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a problem with my H200.
> I install the h220 the last week and work fine but the problems started yesterday, the pump don't work and the fans yes. I try connect directly and nothing, same case setting the bios and the profile in fan expert.
> 
> With stock fan
> 
> 
> 
> With H220
> 
> 
> 
> What can i do? should i send it to warranty?


Can you try connecting the pump directly to the CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue? Let me know what you find.


----------



## michael-ocn

^^^ looks like the monitoring function (rpm readout) isn't working but the pump itself probably is, otherwise, wouldn't the temps be higher? or maybe the pump is alternating between being on and off, some folks have reported a problem like that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> ^^^ looks like the monitoring function (rpm readout) isn't working but the pump itself probably is, otherwise, wouldn't the temps be higher? or maybe the pump is alternating between being on and off, some folks have reported a problem like that.


Good call. I didn't notice that at first. El Media, your CPU temps would be a lot higher if the pump had actually failed. It looks like your monitoring function isn't working properly, just as Michael-OCN stated. It could be an issue with splitter so try connecting the pump directly to your CPU fan header to see if that gives you the ability to monitor the pump speed.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you try connecting the pump directly to the CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue? Let me know what you find.


Same happens, the pump don't work and 0 rpms.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Same happens, the pump don't work and 0 rpms.


Based on your CPU temperature though the pump does appear to be working. If it wasn't your CPU temps would be in the 50s or 60s. Even at idle. I'm sending you a PM though to help you with this.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Based on your CPU temperature though the pump does appear to be working. If it wasn't your CPU temps would be in the 50s or 60s. Even at idle. I'm sending you a PM though to help you with this.


After ~15 minutes the temps increase and the pc turn off
Ok. I'll be on the lookout.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> After ~15 minutes the temps increase and the pc turn off
> Ok. I'll be on the lookout.


OK, then it's probably an issue with the pump. Once I have the information that I requested in my PM to you I'll know how to proceed.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you try connecting the pump directly to the CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue? Let me know what you find.
> 
> 
> 
> Same happens, the pump don't work and 0 rpms.
Click to expand...

In the bios how is the settings done for fan setup?
Can you take a photo of it.


----------



## bond32

To Bram and other reps, my pump noise hasn't seemed to improve. Performance hasn't decreased at all but I woke up a few days ago, turned my pc on to hear a terrible clicking from the pump. In a few days I will be redoing my loop completely, is there anything I can do to make sure all is well? Also on my power supply, for some reason grounding the +12v or "ps on" causes the power supply to pulse on and off. Doesn't supply enough to run the loop fully outside the case which makes it very hard for install ation. Any tips?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> To Bram and other reps, my pump noise hasn't seemed to improve. Performance hasn't decreased at all but I woke up a few days ago, turned my pc on to hear a terrible clicking from the pump. In a few days I will be redoing my loop completely, is there anything I can do to make sure all is well? Also on my power supply, for some reason grounding the +12v or "ps on" causes the power supply to pulse on and off. Doesn't supply enough to run the loop fully outside the case which makes it very hard for install ation. Any tips?


If your 12+ v rail is not enough to power, then the PSU might be going. I suggest you look at another one if you got one for testing.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> To Bram and other reps, my pump noise hasn't seemed to improve. Performance hasn't decreased at all but I woke up a few days ago, turned my pc on to hear a terrible clicking from the pump. In a few days I will be redoing my loop completely, is there anything I can do to make sure all is well? Also on my power supply, for some reason grounding the +12v or "ps on" causes the power supply to pulse on and off. Doesn't supply enough to run the loop fully outside the case which makes it very hard for install ation. Any tips?


sounds like its failing a simple test of powering on. The paper clip "test" aka the green wire to ground is one of the ways to test for a working psu.


----------



## eoniverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Like it has been stated before you always here more about the bad units than you do about the ones working perfectly.
> 
> I bought my unit day one directly from Swiftech, and have had no issues at all. I have also added a GPU to the loop, and in doing so inspected the liquid coming out when I expanded it. I found no particles whatsoever in my liquid, and have had no pump or noise issues. I think more of us with great units need to speak up more.


I also purchased one on day one and have no issues at all. Installed in the bottom on my NZXT 810 with res facing up. Using speedfan. Very happy with setup.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> I never said anything about their communication. I also agree that they seem very responsive. I'm merely trying to bring some of the perceptions back down to earth. This is a business and what they are doing makes good business sense because they are literally and figuratively doing damage control to their reputation right now. Whether or not you believe that manufacturing problems have been resolved in the factory they contract with in China, the fact is the Internet is rife with not only people registering on forums to access direct support from Swiftech, but also you have many people with repeated failures with different devices. Now, we can look at any number of aggravating factors that might account for one person having such bad luck, but I don't think that's fair to the consumer that is purchasing a product that is supposed to work if you follow the instructions. I'd be curious to know what percentage of customers of the H220 have experience with water cooling, and what percentage are people like me with absolutely none and looking for an easy transition into it. Obviously these kinds of problems have a big impact with the latter camp, whereas the former camp can just say "oh, it's really easy, I spoke to them and they told me how to disassemble it, flush the system through a coffee filter, refill, top it off, and good to go," but that isn't realistic for a mass market product with a warranty to work as-is.
> 
> That said, I think Swiftech is doing the right thing, and they seem like a nice small business. This is the double-edged sword of being a small business. I can only tell you that as a person that does a lot of research on every product I buy, for good or bad, and with extensive knowledge of the practices of Internet forums, I have been dissuaded from purchasing one because the risks (putting air cooler back in if have to RMA or clean it out myself) outweigh the benefits (lower C numbers and higher overclock). I bought a new case and case fans just for transitioning to an AIO. I'm waiting til I see more evidence that the flaws have been worked out in the majority of products that are actually on retailer shelves (Newegg).
> 
> You can dismiss my decisions, but I don't think they are illogical, and I'm sure there are many more people on the fence like me and Swiftech knows this and that is why it is a serious problem. I hope they can resolve it.


I don't think your decision is illogical; It's a judgement call as anything else. But I will yet again correct you that the manufacturing plant is owned and operated by Swiftech. All of the people there have Gabriel Rouchon at the top of their command chain. It not a "contracted" shop like Foxconn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hopefully they get their problems resolved. Sometimes a good customer service is not enough if the products are not at the same level. H220 already damaged my 680 due to a leak, which I don't see I could have produced myself. I just plugged the unit in. They already said they don't anything about it because I didn't buy the "Swiftech"-labeled kit they are supporting here directly from their own shop. I feel it's like a slap in the face because they have admitted that there have been problems in the manufacturing process or quality and I feel like I am the one they are blaming now for the problems in their own product. I live in a small country outside the USA so maybe this could have something to do with it, I don't know. I am a member on a hardware enthusiast forum in our country and the discussion is that there are a handful of people owning the H220 and there's only one, yes only one member who has not had any problems. Yet. It's not only me with multiple RMAs already. Probably their issues get sorted now when the new working batch is already available, who knows.
> 
> It's very nice to see the reps around here but the real quality of the customer support would be measured in the worst cases.


The fact that you live outside the USA has everything to do with it. Bacata handles the European RMAs. Returns for 99% of companies are always handled by the retail outlet an object is bought from. If I want a refund on bad pack of Energizer batteries I bought at Walmart or a broken vacuum cleaner, I'm not gonna ask energizer for a refund. I'm gonna ask WalMart, because that's where I bought it.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sozin*
> 
> Have you tried a stock CPU with an overclocked GPU? I'm mulling around the idea of getting a 7970 or a 670 and I would aim for one that I could overclock and slap a block onto it.


I ran mine with a 3750k and a 670 on the stock kit (+ gpu block) for a few weeks, and it was just fine. I ran into some issues with the CPU and GPU overclocked when STRESS TESTING (Prime95 blend + Kombustor at the same time), but in actual usage it was never an issue. Mostly I played some Neverwinter with all the settings cranked up, and a bit of Metro 2033 as well. The 7970 does use a good bit more power than the 670, so keep that in mind.

I redid my loop last weekend and switched out the stock radiator for a pair of 240mm UT60s, so that's about all the test I'm going to be doing with that set up. But overall, I'd say it performed satisifactory.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Ok folks... so just as expected, the Swiftech team is coming through on the brand promise... and standing for their reputation. They are TOTALLY taking care of the issue with my cooler and (at least for my issue) it's a new kit. This is not the case for all of them though, so be sure to contact them and keep everything you can to send back to them just in case. This is why I keep the boxes and everything inside for a while with new gear.

Anyway, *HUGE* thumbs up anf thank to the Swiftech support team. And as soon as I test everything at home, I'll be updating my Newegg post as well.

Can't wait for the new pump!!


----------



## Sazerac81

I'm really happy with my expanded loop using the H220. Also, got some really nice Phobya RGB lights that can color shift to suit the mood. Knock on wood, but so far, my pump is quiet and not causing any issues.

Here are some pics of the expanded loop and the phobya lights. I am really happy with the setup. I think there are only a few things left to do to my rig, purchase a fully modular PSU, individually sleeve cables, add another GTX 670 down the line to the loop and hopefully I will be done with spending money on my rig for awhile.







But, I'll be da*ned, if those new haswell processors and GTX700 series cards don't look nice...



Blistering Red



Bright White



UV glow



Corsair Cover On



The Hulk



5.25" Double Bay Reservoir

Just wanted to share and show that you can really expand the loop on this baby. Great cooling performance and is more than powerful enough to run through a CPU and GPU block, 240mm Rad, 200mm Rad, a bunch of 45 and 90 degree fittings and a bay reservoir.

I will say that, adding the bay reservoir really, really helped me prime and fill the loop. Otherwise, it would have been a cluster to try to actually fill the whole loop up through the Swiftech Res/Rad fill port... especially since it is upside down in my case. So, if you plan on expanding, I would highly suggest figuring out how you are going to actually fill the loop before proceeding.

Cheers,
John


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> I'm really happy with my expanded loop using the H220. Also, got some really nice Phobya RGB lights that can color shift to suit the mood. Knock on wood, but so far, my pump is quiet and not causing any issues.
> 
> Here are some pics of the expanded loop and the phobya lights. I am really happy with the setup. I think there are only a few things left to do to my rig, purchase a fully modular PSU, individually sleeve cables, add another GTX 670 down the line to the loop and hopefully I will be done with spending money on my rig for awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I'll be da*ned, if those new haswell processors and GTX700 series cards don't look nice...
> 
> 
> 
> Blistering Red
> 
> 
> 
> Bright White
> 
> 
> 
> UV glow
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair Cover On
> 
> 
> 
> The Hulk
> 
> 
> 
> 5.25" Double Bay Reservoir
> 
> Just wanted to share and show that you can really expand the loop on this baby. Great cooling performance and is more than powerful enough to run through a CPU and GPU block, 240mm Rad, 200mm Rad, a bunch of 45 and 90 degree fittings and a bay reservoir.
> 
> I will say that, adding the bay reservoir really, really helped me prime and fill the loop. Otherwise, it would have been a cluster to try to actually fill the whole loop up through the Swiftech Res/Rad fill port... especially since it is upside down in my case. So, if you plan on expanding, I would highly suggest figuring out how you are going to actually fill the loop before proceeding.
> 
> Cheers,
> John


That looks awesome! Well done.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> When and where did you purchase this kit..
> 
> It is absolutely essential for us to know about this. We have implemented all kind of measures to prevent this from happening in the April & May shipments, and if we still find debris, we need to understand where it's coming from..
> 
> FYI, we do implement systematic flushing (with 60 PSI & distilled water) of the radiators prior to filling the kits.


my unit was bought directly from the swiftech site when they first came available. I believe it is one of first batch of units.

now that the "grinding" noise is gone, the gurgling is back and pretty bad again. I'm thinking about finding a way to add a top mounted resivior to aid in air relief from the loop as my only mounting option has the rad below the pump...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> my unit was bought directly from the swiftech site when they first came available. I believe it is one of first batch of units.
> 
> now that the "grinding" noise is gone, the gurgling is back and pretty bad again. I'm thinking about finding a way to add a top mounted resivior to aid in air relief from the loop as my only mounting option has the rad below the pump...


Thanks for feed-back. Is your radiator installed with reservoir right side up or upside down ?


----------



## bond32

Solved my power supply issue, just was using the wrong pins. Rebuilt my loop, still getting all the air out but my pump is now sounding like it should. Only thing, I filtered out some coolant (swiftech brand) and I can'trremember if it is what came with my unit, but I took a picture of what I found.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Solved my power supply issue, just was using the wrong pins. Rebuilt my loop, still getting all the air out but my pump is now sounding like it should. Only thing, I filtered out some coolant (swiftech brand) and I can'trremember if it is what came with my unit, but I took a picture of what I found.


Is it just me, or is that image just gross looking?


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Is it just me, or is that image just gross looking?


GF was looking over my shoulder and said the same thing.


----------



## bond32

Yeah its gross, that stuff was floating around in the swiftech bottle. No idea what it is or if it came out of the loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah its gross, that stuff was floating around in the swiftech bottle. No idea what it is or if it came out of the loop.


When did you purchase this kit and from where did you purchase it?


----------



## bond32

Purchased on 5/15 from Newegg.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Is it just me, or is that image just gross looking?










Looks like baby poop from Mars or something...


----------



## bond32

Got my loop installed, pump is actually still making that noise. I can take a video but I may need an RMA. Going to keep an eye on it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Purchased on 5/15 from Newegg.


In taking a closer look at your picture, these appear to be very tiny, thin particles that you would normally see after running a loop for a period of time. As you may or may not know, all of the radiators and pumps are flushed with filtered water and then filled with filtered coolant prior to being shipped. As Martin of Martinsliquidlab has even stated, that there will always be some small particles in your coolant after a period of time. Those in your picture don't look troubling because they're not of the size that would cause issues with our pump. They also appear to be quite thin and therefore would also not pose much of issue for our pump for the way it was designed. Let me know though if you have any questions or issues with this and I'll do my best to answer them for you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got my loop installed, pump is actually still making that noise. I can take a video but I may need an RMA. Going to keep an eye on it.


It's normal for the pump to make a little noise after flushing and filling it. This is called the bleeding process and it might take a few hours to a few days before the noise subsides and goes away.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's normal for the pump to make a little noise after flushing and filling it. This is called the bleeding process and it might take a few hours to a few days before the noise subsides and goes away.


Good lol, I am just nervous I guess. Actually it seems to be getting better. Also I fit this just fine in the asus 990fx formula Z. Ill post some pictures soon. Just need to figure out how to use the fan controller, doesn't seem to change fan speeds when I select a manual profile.


----------



## Lil-Diabo

Received mine yesterday.
Can't wait to install it over the weekend!


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The fact that you live outside the USA has everything to do with it. Bacata handles the European RMAs. Returns for 99% of companies are always handled by the retail outlet an object is bought from. If I want a refund on bad pack of Energizer batteries I bought at Walmart or a broken vacuum cleaner, I'm not gonna ask energizer for a refund. I'm gonna ask WalMart, because that's where I bought it.


I think it's a little different if a product has quality issues and induces damage, like a phone battery suddendly catching fire or blowing up. It's probably the phone manufacturer at least partially responsible (or at least would be willing to compensate and/or investigate the issue).

A similar issue and see how it was handled by the manufacturer.

Where I live it's possible to handle the warranty directly to the company (if possible), or send it to the retailer without any expenses. I have just received an email that the shop I purchased my H220 from will do a refund of the H220 but they will not cover the damaged GTX 680. I will try home insurance now, but they will cover only products that cost 150 € and upwards. So I will lose the 150 € that they will deduct from the street price. The 680 I own still sells for around 450 €.

Sorry and enough off topic, this is probably my last entry in this thread.


----------



## Sazerac81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's normal for the pump to make a little noise after flushing and filling it. This is called the bleeding process and it might take a few hours to a few days before the noise subsides and goes away.


yeah, it takes a while to have the bleeding noise go away as the pump slowly extricates more bubbles from the loop. If you the rad/res hanging above the pump, it seems to be better since air floats upwards. Before I redesigned my loop so that I wouldn't entrain any air, occasionally when the pump sped up, I would get a stray bubble or two into the pump and this would cause some pump noise.

Without any bubbles in the loop getting entrained into your pump, the pump should be nearly silent at less than 40% (roughly 1700-1900rpm) by speedfan settings.

Just wanted to give another shout out to Brian and Gabe at Swiftech, great company with great CS. Will definitely do business with again and again as long as they keep delivering with their CS.


----------



## Sazerac81

When I used the blue Hydr-x coolant, I did notice a few small fine particles/floaters in the solution and bottle. I just filtered these out... not really sure what they were exactly.

Either way, I didn't purchase enough Hydr-X coolant to fully fill loop so supplemented with RO/DI water from the unit I have for my Reef tank. Dropped a little copper sulfate in the solution and used some dye to add a little blue to the water loop. No real issues, there are a few rare and very small pieces of debris gently resting in my bay res. They do look somewhat like those specs you showed pictured in that towel.

I'm sure that small debris from the manufacturing process of the radiators is what is to blame for these small particles... Honestly, I doubt they truly cause any real issues unless they are huge and actually jam up the impeller of pump.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Thanks for feed-back. Is your radiator installed with reservoir right side up or upside down ?


rad res is face up...


----------



## bond32

Should edit the OP, the asus 990fx crosshair V formula Z will be ok to use but the bracket does touch the VRM heatsink. Here's a picture:


----------



## asdfdemi

I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.

After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.





I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.

I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?

Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.
> 
> After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.
> 
> I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?
> 
> Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.


I don't have your exact board, but the MSI Z77A GD65. Using the pump just on the CPU1 header, it runs just under 1200 rpm according to the hardware monitor in the bios. Maybe try that, then worry about the fans. I control my fans off my case controller. I do not have the control center installed.


----------



## Badness

Hey guys, I was looking into either getting an Eisberg 240 or the H220. However I saw this on Xbit:

Is the fan controller and better pump the reason for Swiftech's higher pricing, or is this review bogus and the performance is on H220's side as well. I could not find too many results against 280mm rads.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html#sect1


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I don't have your exact board, but the MSI Z77A GD65. Using the pump just on the CPU1 header, it runs just under 1200 rpm according to the hardware monitor in the bios. Maybe try that, then worry about the fans. I control my fans off my case controller. I do not have the control center installed.


In hardware monitor, I still see the same 3000 rpm on the pump. Even in the BIOS, I can't seem to get it to change the pump speed to anything else but max.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> In hardware monitor, I still see the same 3000 rpm on the pump. Even in the BIOS, I can't seem to get it to change the pump speed to anything else but max.


Is it possible the control center is keeping it maxed. Maybe try removing that, just a shot in the dark. Also my board allows me to control speed off of different headers via bios settings in the hardware monitor. Maybe use a sys fan header and try 50% or something.


----------



## paleh0rse14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.
> 
> After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.
> 
> I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?
> 
> Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.


Two things to check:
1. Are you sure the PWM cpu fan header is set to "manual" under the Advanced settings in Speedfan?
2. If that doesn't work, try uninstalling all of the MSI Control Center stuff. It may be conflicting with Speedfan.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Hey guys, I was looking into either getting an Eisberg 240 or the H220. However I saw this on Xbit:
> 
> Is the fan controller and better pump the reason for Swiftech's higher pricing, or is this review bogus and the performance is on H220's side as well. I could not find too many results against 280mm rads.
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html#sect1


This review mentions nothing about ambient temps, block seating methods, which TIM was used, etc. An expansive review without controlled variables is useless. Junk review IMHO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.
> 
> After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.
> 
> I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?
> 
> Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.


Make sure your CPU fan header is set in the BIOS to run PWM and not voltage. Having it set to voltage while the pump and fans are plugged into the splitter, even with the splitter connected to the fan header, will result in them receiving the full 12v through the molex connection on the splitter and run 100%.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> Two things to check:
> 1. Are you sure the PWM cpu fan header is set to "manual" under the Advanced settings in Speedfan?
> 2. If that doesn't work, try uninstalling all of the MSI Control Center stuff. It may be conflicting with Speedfan.


It is indeed set to manual.
I also just uninstalled the Control Center, and no go. It doesn't change anything. I also tried on a completely separate boot drive, and still no difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Make sure your CPU fan header is set in the BIOS to run PWM and not voltage. Having it set to voltage while the pump and fans are plugged into the splitter, even with the splitter connected to the fan header, will result in them receiving the full 12v through the molex connection on the splitter and run 100%.


Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, there is no option for "PWM" or "voltage" in this motherboard's BIOS in terms of fan control. MSI's BIOS is very, very limited in options for its fan control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Is it possible the control center is keeping it maxed. Maybe try removing that, just a shot in the dark. Also my board allows me to control speed off of different headers via bios settings in the hardware monitor. Maybe use a sys fan header and try 50% or something.


This part is interesting. Plugging in just the pump or just the fan into one of the sys fan headers at 50%, and they have reduced rpm's. The pump runs at 1800 rpm and a Helix fan runs at 900 rpm. But, this part makes me worry. When i use SpeedFan to reduce the %'s on sys fan 1 and 2, the pump hits 0 rpm at around 40%, and the fan hits 0 rpm at around 20% (roughly estimating this one). Plugging the PWM splitter into one of the sys fan headers, and I'm getting max speeds on either the fan or the pump. This is making me believe that the sys fan headers aren't PWM regulated, but rather voltage regulated. I believe that the H220's pump should not be undervolted, but should be controlled by PWM to reduce any strain. Again as a note, plugging either a fan or pump directly into the CPU fan header yields it running at max rpm's, and SpeedFan still has no effect on the rpm of whatever is on the CPU fan header, despite SpeedFan being able to read rpm's for it.

If there are any ways to set in the MSI's BIOS to specifically use "PWM" or "voltage", that would be great, but as far as I can tell there is none. Turning Smart Fan target on or off in the BIOS changes nothing. Does anyone know if there is some cheap PWM fan controller that I can use until I'm ready to make an upgrade to a new motherboard?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> If there are any ways to set in the MSI's BIOS to specifically use "PWM" or "voltage", that would be great, but as far as I can tell there is none. Turning Smart Fan target on or off in the BIOS changes nothing. Does anyone know if there is some cheap PWM fan controller that I can use until I'm ready to make an upgrade to a new motherboard?


Can't find much information on MSI's Z77 fan control options, but a few other have reported fans dropping to 0 RPM at or below 40%. There are also a number of compatibility bugs on Almico's website (makers of Speedfan) related to MSI Z77 boards. It really seems like MSI dropped the ball on fan control, I was wondering why they made such a huge deal about it on their "Gaming" series boards.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> It is indeed set to manual.
> I also just uninstalled the Control Center, and no go. It doesn't change anything. I also tried on a completely separate boot drive, and still no difference.
> Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, there is no option for "PWM" or "voltage" in this motherboard's BIOS in terms of fan control. MSI's BIOS is very, very limited in options for its fan control.
> This part is interesting. Plugging in just the pump or just the fan into one of the sys fan headers at 50%, and they have reduced rpm's. The pump runs at 1800 rpm and a Helix fan runs at 900 rpm. But, this part makes me worry. When i use SpeedFan to reduce the %'s on sys fan 1 and 2, the pump hits 0 rpm at around 40%, and the fan hits 0 rpm at around 20% (roughly estimating this one). Plugging the PWM splitter into one of the sys fan headers, and I'm getting max speeds on either the fan or the pump. This is making me believe that the sys fan headers aren't PWM regulated, but rather voltage regulated. I believe that the H220's pump should not be undervolted, but should be controlled by PWM to reduce any strain. Again as a note, plugging either a fan or pump directly into the CPU fan header yields it running at max rpm's, and SpeedFan still has no effect on the rpm of whatever is on the CPU fan header, despite SpeedFan being able to read rpm's for it.
> 
> If there are any ways to set in the MSI's BIOS to specifically use "PWM" or "voltage", that would be great, but as far as I can tell there is none. Turning Smart Fan target on or off in the BIOS changes nothing. Does anyone know if there is some cheap PWM fan controller that I can use until I'm ready to make an upgrade to a new motherboard?


I am not 100% sure why my pump runs at around 1200rpm off CPU header 1. I have nothing being done except it being plugged right in. I think when I tried using a sys fan header for the pump it ran at full speed. I don't even use the PWM splitter that came with the unit, since like I said, I run all my fans from both the case and the H220 off my case controller.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Can't find much information on MSI's Z77 fan control options, but a few other have reported fans dropping to 0 RPM at or below 40%. There are also a number of compatibility bugs on Almico's website (makers of Speedfan) related to MSI Z77 boards. It really seems like MSI dropped the ball on fan control, I was wondering why they made such a huge deal about it on their "Gaming" series boards.


The weirdest thing is that all was fine up until yesterday when I unplugged and replugged in everything to diagnose some noise problem. I had PWM working just fine on the CPU fan header, both in the BIOS and in SpeedFan. I have no idea what's going on now, which is why I'm looking into some PWM fan controllers for the time being.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> The weirdest thing is that all was fine up until yesterday when I unplugged and replugged in everything to diagnose some noise problem. I had PWM working just fine on the CPU fan header, both in the BIOS and in SpeedFan. I have no idea what's going on now, which is why I'm looking into some PWM fan controllers for the time being.


Has to be something you did wrong, it wouldn't just change on its own. The problem can be if you do a few things at once is trying to catch what you might of changed. I had an issue where all of a sudden my system would hard lock coming out of sleep sometimes. I am like ***, then I thought about what I did recently. I installed the Supercharger software that is suppose to charge things faster via USB. I removed that and it cured the issue.


----------



## Watagump

I would try plugging the fans into the sys headers that you can control in the hardware monitor in the bios. Then just try CPU 1 header and PWN for the pump. Just a thought, I have never used Speedfan. I cant see why voltage control on the pump would be bad, but this is my first time water cooling.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Has to be something you did wrong, it wouldn't just change on its own. The problem can be if you do a few things at once is trying to catch what you might of changed. I had an issue where all of a sudden my system would hard lock coming out of sleep sometimes. I am like ***, then I thought about what I did recently. I installed the Supercharger software that is suppose to charge things faster via USB. I removed that and it cured the issue.


On the software side, nothing was changed. The only thing I did was unplug all the case fans (which were plugged straight into the PSU), unplug the GPU, and see just how loud the pump and fan were. I then unplugged the Helix fans from the PWM splitter to see how loud just the pump was, and then unplugged the pump from the splitter too, to see if there were any noise running fanless. After that, I plugged everything back into their respective ports, and the problem arose. Note that this was all done outside of Windows, just sitting in the BIOS. Also, I ran a Win8 boot drive, in contrast to my normal Win7 boot, to see if anything would change. Unfortunately, it made no difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I would try plugging the fans into the sys headers that you can control in the hardware monitor in the bios. Then just try CPU 1 header and PWN for the pump. Just a thought, I have never used Speedfan. I cant see why voltage control on the pump would be bad, but this is my first time water cooling.


This was the article that led me to believe voltage regulating the PWM pump would cause undue strain. I actually am not sure if it really will cause adverse effects, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## Watagump

About the only other thing I can think of, is on my board, the CPU header and sys fan 3 are both at the top not far from each other and I have accidentally plugged into the sys fan header.


----------



## ez12a

check to see if you accidentally pulled the pwm wire out of its connector or something when moving things around.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> About the only other thing I can think of, is on my board, the CPU header and sys fan 3 are both at the top not far from each other and I have accidentally plugged into the sys fan header.


I wish it were that, but I've actually already tried every fan header on my mobo, and that PWM splitter will not modulate speeds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> check to see if you accidentally pulled the pwm wire out of its connector or something when moving things around.


The PWM wire is unfortunately still connected. Also, I've tried the PWM splitter on a different motherboard, and it works perfectly fine. The problem is only with my MSI motherboard.


----------



## BradleyW

Hello,
Is it possible to control the pump of a H220 by using hardware such as a fan control dial?


----------



## mpetroul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I wish it were that, but I've actually already tried every fan header on my mobo, and that PWM splitter will not modulate speeds.
> The PWM wire is unfortunately still connected. Also, I've tried the PWM splitter on a different motherboard, and it works perfectly fine. The problem is only with my MSI motherboard.


I am not sure if this will help, but if you are okay with making up small circuits you might try this...

If your PWM circuit doesnt work, but the voltage control circuit will work off the tach. signal then you could use a 555 timer circuit and NPN or equivalent transistor to use the MB header to control the input to the circuit and the fan could be on the PWM circuit output.

There are a lot of tutorials on the net to make one up.

thanks,
mike


----------



## bond32

Just a head's up, I was pulling my hair out too when I saw my board wasn't controlling anything. Then I removed the splitter all together just plugging straight into the board and it was fine. I know others have said this just sharing my experience.


----------



## bond32

Here is a quick video of the noise my pump is making. So far it has come and gone for the past 3 days of running the pump full speed.
http://db.tt/8jFoQs4G


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Hey guys, I was looking into either getting an Eisberg 240 or the H220. However I saw this on Xbit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the fan controller and better pump the reason for Swiftech's higher pricing, or is this review bogus and the performance is on H220's side as well. I could not find too many results against 280mm rads.
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html#sect1


Is it me or are most of the units comparing to the H220 in that one 240 radiators? On top of the things Phelan already mentioned, why would you compare something that has 400 additional mm^2 of rad space and be surprised when dissipates heat better?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello,
> Is it possible to control the pump of a H220 by using hardware such as a fan control dial?


If you can find a fan controller which produces a true PWM signal. Lamptron or Aquaero (sp?) come to mind. Otherwise, no you don't want to control the pump that way, because those are voltage regulated controllers.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Here is a quick video of the noise my pump is making. So far it has come and gone for the past 3 days of running the pump full speed.
> http://db.tt/8jFoQs4G


I've gotten that exact noise before, it's _usually_ an air bubble trapped in the pump.

My solution was to open the fill port while running, let it sit open for 10-20 mins _(give or take)_ and also move the radiator around a bit while opened, of course being careful not to spill. You can also gently squeeze the tubing a bit and try to push the trapped air from the pump. Let it run open for a bit longer and see how it goes.


----------



## ez12a

what is the controller chipset in the MSI boards?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> I've gotten that exact noise before, it's _usually_ an air bubble trapped in the pump.
> 
> My solution was to open the fill port while running, let it sit open for 10-20 mins _(give or take)_ and also move the radiator around a bit while opened, of course being careful not to spill. You can also gently squeeze the tubing a bit and try to push the trapped air from the pump. Let it run open for a bit longer and see how it goes.


Thank you, I'll give that a try. Need to figure this out, noise is annoying.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thank you, I'll give that a try. Need to figure this out, noise is annoying.


I've listened to the noise on your video as well and I'm fairly certain that it's just an air bubble. What confirms this is that you said that the noise comes and goes. If was something actually mechanically wrong with the pump then the noise wouldn't come and go. It would just continue to get worse as the issue progressed. Please PM me if you need detailed instructions on how to remove the air bubble from your pump. Anyone here with similar issues can also PM me for these instructions.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've listened to the noise on your video as well and I'm fairly certain that it's just an air bubble. What confirms this is that you said that the noise comes and goes. If was something actually mechanically wrong with the pump then the noise wouldn't come and go. It would just continue to get worse as the issue progressed. Please PM me if you need detailed instructions on how to remove the air bubble from your pump. Anyone here with similar issues can also PM me for these instructions.


Thanks, I have the loop outside the case right now. Running the pump for a while to try to bleed it out. I may take a picture and you can tell me any tips. Pump needs to be lowest point correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thanks, I have the loop outside the case right now. Running the pump for a while to try to bleed it out. I may take a picture and you can tell me any tips. Pump needs to be lowest point correct?


It doesn't have to be at the lowest point, but it certainly helps. You do need it sitting at the lowest point though when you're filling and bleeding your loop. Once you install it you definitely want the reservoir though with the fill port cap facing up or sitting above the radiator if you have the radiator mounted in the front of the case.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpetroul*
> 
> I am not sure if this will help, but if you are okay with making up small circuits you might try this...
> 
> If your PWM circuit doesnt work, but the voltage control circuit will work off the tach. signal then you could use a 555 timer circuit and NPN or equivalent transistor to use the MB header to control the input to the circuit and the fan could be on the PWM circuit output.
> 
> There are a lot of tutorials on the net to make one up.
> 
> thanks,
> mike


I've never made my own circuit before, so I don't think I'm ready to do that.







I'm pretty sure if I were more technical, I would try that, but I think I might just stick to the pre-done solutions for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what is the controller chipset in the MSI boards?


I'm not sure what you mean by the controller chipset. Is that what chipset I select in SpeedFan? If so, that's "F71869AD at $290 on ISA". I'm not sure if that's what you're asking for, though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I've never made my own circuit before, so I don't think I'm ready to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure if I were more technical, I would try that, but I think I might just stick to the pre-done solutions for now.
> I'm not sure what you mean by the controller chipset. Is that what chipset I select in SpeedFan? If so, that's "F71869AD at $290 on ISA". I'm not sure if that's what you're asking for, though.


With the particular issue that you're experiencing with your board I really think it's time to contact MSI directly to see about an RMA. This kind of issue really needs to be addressed by the manufacturer of your board and they need to stand behind their products. It isn't right that you should have to jump through the hoops of having to fabricate your own PWM circuit just to get the functionality that your motherboard should provide.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I've never made my own circuit before, so I don't think I'm ready to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure if I were more technical, I would try that, but I think I might just stick to the pre-done solutions for now.
> I'm not sure what you mean by the controller chipset. Is that what chipset I select in SpeedFan? If so, that's "F71869AD at $290 on ISA". I'm not sure if that's what you're asking for, though.


that's what i wanted to know, thanks.

If you go into Speedfan's Configure > Advanced tab > select the F71869AD chipset under the "Chip" dropdown menu" can you post a screenshot of what it lists?


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that's what i wanted to know, thanks.
> 
> If you go into Speedfan's Configure > Advanced tab > select the F71869AD chipset under the "Chip" dropdown menu" can you post a screenshot of what it lists?


Here's a screenshot of that tab. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With the particular issue that you're experiencing with your board I really think it's time to contact MSI directly to see about an RMA. This kind of issue really needs to be addressed by the manufacturer of your board and they need to stand behind their products. It isn't right that you should have to jump through the hoops of having to fabricate your own PWM circuit just to get the functionality that your motherboard should provide.


I'll see if I can contact MSI about an RMA. Crossing my fingers in hopes that they'll take it in.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

This has been an ongoing issue with MSI and there lower end boards. The bios functionality is just lacking for fan control. It is similar with AsRock, not as bad.
Most Asus/Gigabyte boards have correct PWM function for the CPU.
Not sure an RMA will fix the problem. Is there another settings for PWM mode in SpeedFan. Also try in the bios disable all fan settings, could be a conflict with bios and software.


----------



## ez12a

Thanks for the screenshot.

I would uninstall all other fan control software besides speedfan, then start playing around with BIOS settings and speedfan settings. From first glance they look OK assuming the PWM1 is associated with the CPU header.

This will take several restarts and switching settings in BIOS. Unfortunately setting up speedfan is part luck and trial/error and rarely does it work by simply installing the software. Asus boards with the Nuvoton, and the I believe ITE based Gigabyte AM2+ board I had are pretty easy.

edit: read this article http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1275-page1.html

there's actually a feature in speedfan that allows people to upload working configs for specific motherboards. Maybe yours is there. The rest of the guide is very similar to my youtube guide, lol i just realized.


----------



## El-Fuego

Anyone here using h220 on 500R
I'm planning on getting one and wondering what's your layout is ?
all inside the case ? fan on top or rad on top ? mounting options ?
push or pull ?
I think the rad+fans is bigger than the space I have on top so there is not way to keep them both on top without removing the mesh (not an option), so something will be inside and something will go on top below the mesh, the images on the compatibility page is not that clear on what's what!

thanks in advance


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Anyone here using h220 on 500R
> I'm planning on getting one and wondering what's your layout is ?
> all inside the case ? fan on top or rad on top ? mounting options ?
> push or pull ?
> I think the rad+fans is bigger than the space I have on top so there is not way to keep them both on top without removing the mesh (not an option), so something will be inside and something will go on top below the mesh, the images on the compatibility page is not that clear on what's what!
> 
> thanks in advance


the corsair 500r is on swiftechs compatibility section directly


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the corsair 500r is on swiftechs compatibility section directly


thanks, please Re-read my last sentience








I cant tell anything from picture.


----------



## Dudewitbow

because the fans are oriented at the top, it means thje fillport is facing upwards on the drive-bay side (which is more preferred as it traps air in the reservoir rather than in the main cycle of the radiator altogether. prevents any accidental leaks from badly screwed in fillports as well) meaning fans on top should be better pulling air into the unit. a push pull method would only see marginal gains since the radiator has low fpi which is designed for low rpm fans.

tl;dr fans pulling air in on the top so that fillport is facing up for optimum temperatures.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> what is the controller chipset in the MSI boards?


I THINK I tracked it down. A few bug entries on Almicos website about it.

Winbond W83667HG


----------



## El-Fuego

@ dude, thanks that was half of my question the other half is this : I know it fits, and it's better to keep the rad oriented in such way but this is the layout i have in my case :





so as you can see there is no space at the top just for the fans, any one managed to do what dude kindly suggested here by mounting the fans on top and the Rad inside the case? or there is some other way to do it, i can mount the whole thing up there but i want the case to look stock, I saw pictures of a system with fans on top, it looked kinda cool, like muscle car hood, thou his fans were aftermarket not the one comes with the unit.

thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> @ dude, thanks that was half of my question the other half is this : I know it fits, and it's better to keep the rad oriented in such way but this is the layout i have in my case :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so as you can see there is no space at the top just for the fans, any one managed to do what dude kindly suggested here by mounting the fans on top and the Rad inside the case? or there is some other way to do it, i can mount the whole thing up there but i want the case to look stock, I saw pictures of a system with fans on top, it looked kinda cool, like muscle car hood, thou his fans were aftermarket not the one comes with the unit.
> 
> thanks


I'm the person that installed the H220 in the case on our website and the fans will fit just under the mesh. Let me know if this answers your question.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm the person that installed the H220 in the case on our website and the fans will fit just under the mesh. Let me know if this answers your question.


Yeah, thanks, so it's rad on bottom (inside) fan on top (outside under the mesh), that what i was asking about.








thanks BramSLI1, now i need you guys to get this unit to my local micro center


----------



## TheGovernment

Well, I just bought all the stuff to upgrade my loop for my titans. 2 x XSPC razor blocks (and backplates), some swiftech compression fittings, xspc super bend tubing, sli bridge and a swiftech 320 rad for the top of my switch 810 and the 220 for the bottom. I'm still deciding if I should add one of those neat looking internal res's even though both rads have one lol. I just like the look


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Well, I just bought all the stuff to upgrade my loop for my titans. 2 x XSPC razor blocks (and backplates), some swiftech compression fittings, xspc super bend tubing, sli bridge and a swiftech 320 rad for the top of my switch 810 and the 220 for the bottom. I'm still deciding if I should add one of those neat looking internal res's even though both rads have one lol. I just like the look


Go big or go home, round res, maybe even one with LED lighting inside.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Go big or go home, round res, maybe even one with LED lighting inside.


Ya your right, way not do exactly what I want. I'm bought a fusion big round one with the helix inside and the blue uv light


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Ya your right, way not do exactly what I want. I'm bought a fusion big round one with the helix inside and the blue uv light


Nice man, make sure we get some pics when its done.


----------



## fasterhoads

Anyone using Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP29's on the Swiftech H220? I'm not getting good performance out of the stock fans.

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> Anyone using Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP29's on the Swiftech H220? I'm not getting good performance out of the stock fans.
> 
> Thanks


How do you know you not getting good performance?
What are you comparing them too?


----------



## fasterhoads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How do you know you not getting good performance?
> What are you comparing them too?


I have the 2 fans on the Swiftech cranked up to 100% on load vs some Sythe Slipstreams @ 100%. For the Sythe's temp wise I am reading better temps vs the stock Swiftech fans.
So I'm looking @ the Gentle Typhoon AP29's for replacements.


----------



## ez12a

you dont really need the super fast GTs, since the h220 radiator fins are low density. AP-15s will work, but its up to you.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you dont really need the super fast GTs, since the h220 radiator fins are low density. AP-15s will work, but its up to you.


This. Helix fans are pretty good for that rad, you should add a single rad. Makes for great performance:


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> I wish it were that, but I've actually already tried every fan header on my mobo, and that PWM splitter will not modulate speeds.
> The PWM wire is unfortunately still connected. Also, I've tried the PWM splitter on a different motherboard, and it works perfectly fine. The problem is only with my MSI motherboard.


So you have the answer. this MSI bpoard is defective. Somebody else showed documentation of this MSI model having problem with fan speeds. Next step is replace the motherboard. Complain to MSI of selling an inferior product. Their AMD motherboards stink also.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the corsair 500r is on swiftechs compatibility section directly


Somewhat unrelated reply. I am getting the H320 as soon as it comes out in a few weeks. I have to top mount the kit. Does that mean my fill port will be upside down? If that is the case won't I have problems with refilling or noise down the line?
I ask because I am NOT expanding the loop anytime soon. So I would like it to be maintenance free for 3 years, as it should be as a closed loop system.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Somewhat unrelated reply. I am getting the H320 as soon as it comes out in a few weeks. I have to top mount the kit. Does that mean my fill port will be upside down? If that is the case won't I have problems with refilling or noise down the line?
> I ask because I am NOT expanding the loop anytime soon. So I would like it to be maintenance free for 3 years, as it should be as a closed loop system.


It seems your case have enough room for the 320. You can just take out of the box and put on top with the radiator fill port up too. In the h220 the fill port is somewhat lower that the fans which are in turn used to fix the radiator on the case. So you should be fine as far as I can tell.

Best wishes

Gabriel


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> This has been an ongoing issue with MSI and there lower end boards. The bios functionality is just lacking for fan control. It is similar with AsRock, not as bad.
> Most Asus/Gigabyte boards have correct PWM function for the CPU.
> Not sure an RMA will fix the problem. Is there another settings for PWM mode in SpeedFan. Also try in the bios disable all fan settings, could be a conflict with bios and software.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> So you have the answer. this MSI bpoard is defective. Somebody else showed documentation of this MSI model having problem with fan speeds. Next step is replace the motherboard. Complain to MSI of selling an inferior product. Their AMD motherboards stink also.


My biggest fear here is that an RMA may not fix the problem, and that I'll be stuck with boards that are perfectly functional in every other aspect. I still am interested in getting a separate fan controller, but the constraint there is finding a PWM fan controller that isn't going to break the bank for the sole purpose of controlling the pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Thanks for the screenshot.
> 
> I would uninstall all other fan control software besides speedfan, then start playing around with BIOS settings and speedfan settings. From first glance they look OK assuming the PWM1 is associated with the CPU header.
> 
> This will take several restarts and switching settings in BIOS. Unfortunately setting up speedfan is part luck and trial/error and rarely does it work by simply installing the software. Asus boards with the Nuvoton, and the I believe ITE based Gigabyte AM2+ board I had are pretty easy.
> 
> edit: read this article http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1275-page1.html
> 
> there's actually a feature in speedfan that allows people to upload working configs for specific motherboards. Maybe yours is there. The rest of the guide is very similar to my youtube guide, lol i just realized.


I tried looking for my board there, but looks like no one has updated the list with any Z77 motherboards from MSI. Also, as of right now, SpeedFan is the only fan control software I have installed. I'll keep fiddling around and see if I get any luck, but things aren't looking very positive right now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> My biggest fear here is that an RMA may not fix the problem, and that I'll be stuck with boards that are perfectly functional in every other aspect. I still am interested in getting a separate fan controller, but the constraint there is finding a PWM fan controller that isn't going to break the bank for the sole purpose of controlling the pump.
> I tried looking for my board there, but looks like no one has updated the list with any Z77 motherboards from MSI. Also, as of right now, SpeedFan is the only fan control software I have installed. I'll keep fiddling around and see if I get any luck, but things aren't looking very positive right now.


You did mention you made a BIOS update. Isn't possible that after the update the PWM functionality was lost in your board? Is possible to revert to the older version of BIOS in your board?

Good luck


----------



## michael-ocn

To eliminate variables, I'd ditch speedfan (uninstall entirely) and try to get the bios to pwm control the CPUFAN header with one of its presets. It certainly should function. And if that function doesn't work on your mobo, speedfan probably isn't going to be able to do anything anyway.


----------



## Ragsters

When are you guys going to make an H220/H320 variant with a Kamodo block for graphics cards? Would love to see that.


----------



## asdfdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You did mention you made a BIOS update. Isn't possible that after the update the PWM functionality was lost in your board? Is possible to revert to the older version of BIOS in your board?
> 
> Good luck


I'll try downgrading my BIOS later, but I upgraded my BIOS a couple months ago. I'll try downgrading nonetheless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> To eliminate variables, I'd ditch speedfan (uninstall entirely) and try to get the bios to pwm control the CPUFAN header with one of its presets. It certainly should function. And if that function doesn't work on your mobo, speedfan probably isn't going to be able to do anything anyway.


Yea, I've already tried on a fresh Windows 8 drive and also uninstalled SpeedFan on my Windows 7 drive. No change.


----------



## selk22

Well I was very excited to build my x79 system and I finally got my last few parts one of which was the h220. After getting everything together for a test I was getting CPU FAN ERROR, CPU OVER TEMPERATURE on booting no matter how i configured the fans and pump. It seems I had shiet luck and got a DOA pump. At least the customer support was friendly and responsive the RMA seems to be going smoothly.

If it helps anybody I ordered this from coolerguys.com. Not sure if it was Swiftech or cooler guys but everything was very dusty when I unboxed. Has anyone else had a similar experience?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfdemi*
> 
> My biggest fear here is that an RMA may not fix the problem, and that I'll be stuck with boards that are perfectly functional in every other aspect. I still am interested in getting a separate fan controller, but the constraint there is finding a PWM fan controller that isn't going to break the bank for the sole purpose of controlling the pump


You could make your own...

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/12/03/pwm_fan_controller/1

The LOGISYS Computer FP600BK is only $22 on Newegg, it's a 6 channel PWM controller that allows control between 30% and 100%.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well I was very excited to build my x79 system and I finally got my last few parts one of which was the h220. After getting everything together for a test I was getting CPU FAN ERROR, CPU OVER TEMPERATURE on booting no matter how i configured the fans and pump. It seems I had shiet luck and got a DOA pump. At least the customer support was friendly and responsive the RMA seems to be going smoothly.
> 
> If it helps anybody I ordered this from coolerguys.com. Not sure if it was Swiftech or cooler guys but everything was very dusty when I unboxed. Has anyone else had a similar experience?


Hmm that's not supposed to happen. The unit should be clean if it's bought as new. I've never had a lot of dust, if any, on stuff I bought from Swiftech. I can't comment about the H220 though because I got my H220 second-hand (I believe the first-ever second hand H220, as I got it from a reviewer before they went on sale in the US).


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> You could make your own...
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/12/03/pwm_fan_controller/1
> 
> The LOGISYS Computer FP600BK is only $22 on Newegg, it's a 6 channel PWM controller that allows control between 30% and 100%.


I don't think you want to attach the H220 pump to the circuit described in the bit-tech article. That circuit works by rapidly switching the supply to the "fan" on and off. I believe, the pump wants to see is a steady 12v and a pwm control signal. Logic in the pump assembly will pulse the motor based on the control signal. This article explains things better than i could.
http://www.overclockers.com/pwm-fan-controller


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I don't think you want to attach the H220 pump to the circuit described in the bit-tech article. That circuit works by rapidly switching the supply to the "fan" on and off. I believe, the pump wants to see is a steady 12v and a pwm control signal. Logic in the pump assembly will pulse the motor based on the control signal. This article explains things better than i could.
> http://www.overclockers.com/pwm-fan-controller


Ah, I hadn't seen that excerpt from nidec.


----------



## kingduqc

Can a h220 pump support 2 240 rad without a problem?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Can a h220 pump support 2 240 rad without a problem?


Yes, it shouldn't be a problem to add a second 2x120mm fan radiator. Just make sure that the inlet line to the pump is still being fed directly by the original radiator with the integrated reservoir. You don't want to put anything in between the pump and the radiator on that piece of tubing. If you do it will make bleeding the air out of the loop and priming your pump very difficult.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Can a h220 pump support 2 240 rad without a problem?


If you are saying can it handle the 240 rad it comes with, and another 240 rad then there is no question it can handle that. If you are saying can it handle the stock 240 plus two more 240s for three in all, then I can say I have the equivalent of that now and it works fine.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it shouldn't be a problem to add a second 2x120mm fan radiator. Just make sure that the inlet line to the pump is still being fed directly by the original radiator with the integrated reservoir. You don't want to put anything in between the pump and the radiator on that piece of tubing. If you do it will make bleeding the air out of the loop and priming your pump very difficult.


Mayb a noob question but say I was to move my setup from a define r4 to a new arc midi r2 I just got (yay new stuff!) and added a reservoir as well as a second rad., would i still feed the pump by the original rad., or by the reservoir? By the res. I assume would be okay? Then mayb I could mount the original rad/res however I wish orientation wise? I have had this h220 a month and I am anxious to get it goin!


----------



## Teufelshunde

Soon to be new H220 owner and building my 1st rig, placed order yesterday for H220. I have been in contact with Swiftech support on a couple questions and received fast response to questions, ty. Latest question was regarding using the H220 controller vs the MB CPU header and MB fan connections so as to use the built in FanExpert, Support requested my MB model (Asus Sabertooth Z87). Any concerns hooking directly to MB CPU/fan headers vs H220 controller?


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Soon to be new H220 owner and building my 1st rig, placed order yesterday for H220. I have been in contact with Swiftech support on a couple questions and received fast response to questions, ty. Latest question was regarding using the H220 controller vs the MB CPU header and MB fan connections so as to use the built in FanExpert, Support requested my MB model (Asus Sabertooth Z87). Any concerns hooking directly to MB CPU/fan headers vs H220 controller?


The only concern would be whether or not the motherboard can provide a consistent 12v power supply to the pump, and whether or not it will use PWM or voltage modulation. It is recommended to use the included splitter, that way there is no possibility of varied voltage supply to the pump (unless your PSU is at fault).

Not to say that your 4 pin CPU header will not power the pump properly, because it should, however there is a risk of having voltage fluctuation on the CPU header that would not exist with the splitter. With use of the splitter you will guarantee that your pump has 12v at all times, and you will not risk pump damage due to voltage fluctuations.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Sabertooth Z87 CPU/Fan headers are all PWM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Soon to be new H220 owner and building my 1st rig, placed order yesterday for H220. I have been in contact with Swiftech support on a couple questions and received fast response to questions, ty. Latest question was regarding using the H220 controller vs the MB CPU header and MB fan connections so as to use the built in FanExpert, Support requested my MB model (Asus Sabertooth Z87). Any concerns hooking directly to MB CPU/fan headers vs H220 controller?


There is no H220 controller. It is just a splitter and everything is powered via molex. You plug the pwm cable to the fan header and all connected will be controlled.
Sabertooth dont use FanXpert. It uses it own, Thermal Radar. It is very basic, but prefer SpeedFan as you can have a much better fan curve.

All connections are PWM, except the 2x CPU can be set to go 20% min. The rest only has a min of 40%. Now thats all in the bios.
On software wise with Asus own, CPU 20%, rest is 30%.
Speed fan can do all ranges from 0-100%


----------



## nilapoledo

hello everyone!

i'm new to the forum and ordered mine on friday morning from a shop in rotterdam, nl, since i couldn't find a shop selling them in germany right now...

i'm going to build a 'vintage' i7 system and was going to collect the _budget_ hardware for that over the last months:

corsair c70 case (mg)
noctua nf-f12-pwm (2 for pull on the rad, 2 for the case, front and rear)
x58 sabertooth (new from ebay)
i7 920 D0 -> this one will go over 4ghz with extreme low vcore
swiftech h220
xms3 dominator 6x 2gb
evga gtx770 acx cooler (still to be purchased)
dark power pro p10 650w psu (still to be purchased)

cant wait w/ that particular built! the cool thing about it, is to use the new stuff (gpu, psu, h220) on the next gen built as well, when the next really cool gen is out (post haswell area)...

all the best and looking fwd to the h220!!


----------



## An4rchyZ

Hey guys I got a H220 and tried adding a GPU block and another 120 Rad into the loop, but I cant seem to get the pump working. When I plug the pump into the molex powered adapter and turn on the computer for a few moments the pump has no reaction and in fear that I will burn out the pump I turn off the computer. Currently the barbs are oriented so that one is on the top side and the other is on the bottom side and both fittings are closer to the right Dimms. The top barb is connected directly to the rad/res. Anything I need to know. Or is it dead out of box and in that case thats thoroughly disappointing


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Hey guys I got a H220 and tried adding a GPU block and another 120 Rad into the loop, but I cant seem to get the pump working. When I plug the pump into the molex powered adapter and turn on the computer for a few moments the pump has no reaction and in fear that I will burn out the pump I turn off the computer. Currently the barbs are oriented so that one is on the top side and the other is on the bottom side and both fittings are closer to the right Dimms. The top barb is connected directly to the rad/res. Anything I need to know. Or is it dead out of box and in that case thats thoroughly disappointing


This may sound silly, but did you plug in both the molex and the pwm header from the splitter? Not saying it's dumb; simply an easy oversight. If it still isn't working I would try backflushing and front flushing the pump (i.e. flushing it in both directions).


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nilapoledo*
> 
> hello everyone!
> 
> i'm new to the forum and ordered mine on friday morning from a shop in rotterdam, nl, since i couldn't find a shop selling them in germany right now...
> 
> i'm going to build a 'vintage' i7 system and was going to collect the _budget_ hardware for that over the last months:
> 
> corsair c70 case (mg)
> noctua nf-f12-pwm (2 for pull on the rad, 2 for the case, front and rear)
> x58 sabertooth (new from ebay)
> i7 920 D0 -> this one will go over 4ghz with extreme low vcore
> swiftech h220
> xms3 dominator 6x 2gb
> evga gtx770 acx cooler (still to be purchased)
> dark power pro p10 650w psu (still to be purchased)
> 
> cant wait w/ that particular built! the cool thing about it, is to use the new stuff (gpu, psu, h220) on the next gen built as well, when the next really cool gen is out (post haswell area)...
> 
> all the best and looking fwd to the h220!!


I have that case for my sons pc and love it.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This may sound silly, but did you plug in both the molex and the pwm header from the splitter? Not saying it's dumb; simply an easy oversight. If it still isn't working I would try backflushing and front flushing the pump (i.e. flushing it in both directions).


\

Does it matter? If I jump the PSU on then the motherboard wont even be powered at all so what would the PWM header to the fan splitter do?


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> \
> 
> Does it matter? If I jump the PSU on then the motherboard wont even be powered at all so what would the PWM header to the fan splitter do?


Your original question stated your were turning the computer on, in which case, yes it does matter. If your bypassing the motherboard completely by jumping the PSU to start the pump, than the splitter will not do anything as you suggest in this post.
However, correct me if im wrong, but the 4 pin molex alone should be enough to start the pump. You wont be able to monitor the pump speed or vary the duty cycle,in effect it should run at 100%.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Your original question stated your were turning the computer on, in which case, yes it does matter. If your bypassing the motherboard completely by jumping the PSU to start the pump, than the splitter will not do anything as you suggest in this post.
> However, correct me if im wrong, but the 4 pin molex alone should be enough to start the pump. You wont be able to monitor the pump speed or vary the duty cycle,in effect it should run at 100%.


Strange. I didnt jump the PSU but I did use the 4pin molex and the fans connected powered up, but the pump did not.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Just placed my order for the H220 at NCIX Canada H220 $149.99 reg, Price match $132
> Newegg.ca has it for $132, but NCIX does price match, so that is a bonus.


Did they honour this deal?

I bought it from NCIX US way back in March but they've been practically been on pre-order status for like 3 months now. They seem to get very low stock and always run out less than a day.


----------



## UnknownXV

I have a question, I feel kind of silly and quite confused, I got the H220 and I want to change the fan mounts, using the graphite 600T, I want to mount the fans on the top and the radiator just below the cutout on the top of the case. But I cannot seem to figure out how to remove the pre-mounted fans. The screws are installed in the bottom holes, and a screw driver doesn't fit through the top screw holes to get to the bottom. How are you supposed to remove them?

Must be something obvious since I can't find anyone else who has an issue with this..


----------



## dramabeats

isn't this pump supposed to be quiet??


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnknownXV*
> 
> I have a question, I feel kind of silly and quite confused, I got the H220 and I want to change the fan mounts, using the graphite 600T, I want to mount the fans on the top and the radiator just below the cutout on the top of the case. But I cannot seem to figure out how to remove the pre-mounted fans. The screws are installed in the bottom holes, and a screw driver doesn't fit through the top screw holes to get to the bottom. How are you supposed to remove them?
> 
> Must be something obvious since I can't find anyone else who has an issue with this..


Use a smaller screwdriver... 3mm shaft slotted driver is what I use.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> isn't this pump supposed to be quiet??


that doesnt sound right.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnknownXV*
> 
> I have a question, I feel kind of silly and quite confused, I got the H220 and I want to change the fan mounts, using the graphite 600T, I want to mount the fans on the top and the radiator just below the cutout on the top of the case. But I cannot seem to figure out how to remove the pre-mounted fans. The screws are installed in the bottom holes, and a screw driver doesn't fit through the top screw holes to get to the bottom. How are you supposed to remove them?
> 
> Must be something obvious since I can't find anyone else who has an issue with this..


None of my screwdrivers worked either, but I happened to have one of those computer builder toolkits and it had a really skinny one that did the trick. Someone in the thread early on said he had to make a trip to the hardware store to get one, so you are not alone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> isn't this pump supposed to be quiet??


At full speed I don't think they are all that quiet, but at <50% they are. Doesn't sound good to me but part of it could be trapped air in pump. It took me several hours of working the unit to get all the air out, for some it takes a couple days.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that doesnt sound right.


crazy loud and not any cooler than my DH-14


----------



## Skullwipe

Can't believe I missed the launch, my dreams have been answered! Fractal Design just released an Arc XL case, looks like my HAF XM is ready to be replaced...



Water cooling compatibility:

Front - 240 mm radiators (thick and slim) when HDD cages are repositioned or removed
Top - 240mm radiators (thick) or 280 and 360mm radiators (slim)
Bottom - 120mm radiators
Rear - 120 and 140mm radiators


----------



## v1ral

I may have totally skip/overlooked this info.
I have a couple of questions:
1. I know you can wire up to 8 fans to the fan block thing and control fan speeds but can I daisy chain two of them and control more than 8 fans? Say like a 4 pin fan splitter to one fan header, since it's only reading rpms and not powering fans.
2. With number 1, do these fans need to be PWM fans? I plan to just purchase more High Speed Yate Loons.
I see that they are all 4 pin headers, have users put 3 pin fans on there with proper control*non-PWM**?

Would this config even be advisable?

This is my plans:
Use motherboard headers of new set-up z87 UD4H or GD-65 Gaming to control pump and use the other optional header to control fan speeds using the included fan power "block".

Thanks in advance.

Edit


----------



## nilapoledo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> isn't this pump supposed to be quiet??


yes: 




i guess yrs seems to be damaged.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nilapoledo*
> 
> yes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i guess yrs seems to be damaged.


That's exactly what mine sounds like. I have been trying to troubleshoot it for weeks and it is damaged, no question. I am in talks with swiftech for a replacement, you should do the same


----------



## Face2Face

Any news on the H220 with white tubing?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Hey guys I got a H220 and tried adding a GPU block and another 120 Rad into the loop, but I cant seem to get the pump working. When I plug the pump into the molex powered adapter and turn on the computer for a few moments the pump has no reaction and in fear that I will burn out the pump I turn off the computer. Currently the barbs are oriented so that one is on the top side and the other is on the bottom side and both fittings are closer to the right Dimms. The top barb is connected directly to the rad/res. Anything I need to know. Or is it dead out of box and in that case thats thoroughly disappointing


My Swiftech that I setup this week had a DOA pump as well the fans acted in the same way


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> My Swiftech that I setup this week had a DOA pump as well the fans acted in the same way


If the fans didn't run either then it's probably just the PWM splitter that wasn't working. Please let me know if this is the case by plugging your pump directly into the CPU fan header.


----------



## kingduqc

I need help! So I intalled my h200 on the cpu, intalled 4 fans and trying to dick around in the msi bios the temps keep rising, it hit 85 while being at idle. Fans are spinning full force, is the pump not well plugged or not enable? I can't really hear it with the fans but it can't be possible.

I've got the pump thing plugged in the red ting from the adapter we get and all my other fans are on it too. Pump dead? Im missing something here?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> I need help! So I intalled my h200 on the cpu, intalled 4 fans and trying to dick around in the msi bios the temps keep rising, it hit 85 while being at idle. Fans are spinning full force, is the pump not well plugged or not enable? I can't really hear it with the fans but it can't be possible.
> 
> I've got the pump thing plugged in the red ting from the adapter we get and all my other fans are on it too. Pump dead? Im missing something here?


Can you try and plug your pump directly into your CPU fan header for me? You also need to monitor what your CPU fan speed is because that will be the speed of your pump. If it's spinning then there is something else that is causing your temps to rise.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> I need help! So I intalled my h200 on the cpu, intalled 4 fans and trying to dick around in the msi bios the temps keep rising, it hit 85 while being at idle. Fans are spinning full force, is the pump not well plugged or not enable? I can't really hear it with the fans but it can't be possible.
> 
> I've got the pump thing plugged in the red ting from the adapter we get and all my other fans are on it too. Pump dead? Im missing something here?


Bram beat me to it. If you can verify it's working properly I'd try remounting the pump block.


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you try and plug your pump directly into your CPU fan header for me? You also need to monitor what your CPU fan speed is because that will be the speed of your pump. If it's spinning then there is something else that is causing your temps to rise.


Wow, thanks for the fast reply.

I did so, unplugged the splitter from the motherboard and temps are keep at 39 and now i can hear the pump if i get my ear really close. could it be that 4 fans + pump is too much? It seem designed for all the fan in your case so that's odd.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the fast reply.
> 
> I did so, unplugged the splitter from the motherboard and temps are keep at 39 and now i can hear the pump if i get my ear really close. could it be that 4 fans + pump is too much? It seem designed for all the fan in your case so that's odd.


That splitter should be able to handle that. It could be that your power supply might be having some issues though. It could also be that there is a problem with our splitter. Check your power supply and make sure that it's able to produce enough power for what you're connecting to it. If that isn't the problem then it's most likely an issue with our splitter and we can replace it if that's the case.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the fast reply.
> 
> I did so, unplugged the splitter from the motherboard and temps are keep at 39 and now i can hear the pump if i get my ear really close. could it be that 4 fans + pump is too much? It seem designed for all the fan in your case so that's odd.


Did you also provide power to the splitter directly from the PSU? The devices attached to the splitter can't all be power by a single mobo fan header, so the splitter takes power from a molex connector. W/o plugging that in, the devices on the splitter wouldn't be getting any power.


----------



## Astral Fly

I wanted to use the H220 on a i7-4770k in the Maximus VI Impact, but i doubt it'll fit. Ram slots too close on one side and the vrm-board too close on the other side. The fittings stick out too far, guess I'll look for a different cooler.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Okay, so I posted earlier, but had to leave town so I did not have time to fix my issue. Everything runs great, I get great temps at 4.5 GHz. However, my pump seems to be stuck at 100% (3200 RPM +- 50ish). In speed fan I can change the PWM1 which is my CPU header where the fan expansion is plugged into and can hear changes in my actual rad fans however the pump seems unaffected. I do not mind this as its not loud at all, but I am afraid of shortening the life span of the pump by doing this. Any suggestions? My motherboard is a MSI Z77-G41


----------



## kingduqc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That splitter should be able to handle that. It could be that your power supply might be having some issues though. It could also be that there is a problem with our splitter. Check your power supply and make sure that it's able to produce enough power for what you're connecting to it. If that isn't the problem then it's most likely an issue with our splitter and we can replace it if that's the case.


All 4 fans are running on the splitter and the pump is directly on the mobo and it work, dunno so the splitter work but pump isn't working on it? Couls it be this single fan plug that isn't working?everything works fine except I Have to deal with fanspeed. I have 2 stock fans +2 gt typhoon(they arn't pwm if they got only 3 pins right) So I was wondering if there is a way to control fan speed for em. I need fan speed reducer for like 7 volts right? If so can I just plug the 2 stock fans to my mobo and use pwm control trought there and get some fan speed derucer. At night I'd also want to turn off 2 of the 4 fans, is that even possible? I'll do some more testing once windoes is installed


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That splitter should be able to handle that. It could be that your power supply might be having some issues though. It could also be that there is a problem with our splitter. Check your power supply and make sure that it's able to produce enough power for what you're connecting to it. If that isn't the problem then it's most likely an issue with our splitter and we can replace it if that's the case.


You have a PM ?


----------



## savagepagan

That Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige looks impressive so far but a bit pricey at $180 per Newegg. Gives the 280mm Kraken X60 a run for its money. Beats the Corsair H110. It even has fittings so you can change out the tubing.
Review.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_eisberg_240l_review,1.html


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> That Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige looks impressive so far but a bit pricey at $180 per Newegg. Gives the 280mm Kraken X60 a run for its money. Beats the Corsair H110.


Cost is nothing if a Unit fails and leaks on your hardware....

We know Antec and Corsair will..

But will Cooler Master or Swiftech?

If CoolerMaster does take my extra 40$ piece of mind is priceless.


----------



## bond32

Think that cooler master unit has been out for a while but it's just now available here in the USA. Saw a video where they demo'ed the pump, it was quite strong.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Did you also provide power to the splitter directly from the PSU? The devices attached to the splitter can't all be power by a single mobo fan header, so the splitter takes power from a molex connector. W/o plugging that in, the devices on the splitter wouldn't be getting any power.


Really want to +1 this comment so he sees it, if you don't have the molex from the splitter plugged into your power supply you run the risk of burning out the fan header you're using.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> That Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige looks impressive so far but a bit pricey at $180 per Newegg. Gives the 280mm Kraken X60 a run for its money. Beats the Corsair H110. It even has fittings so you can change out the tubing.
> Review.
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_eisberg_240l_review,1.html


the trade off would be higher initial investment (it's more expensive to start, and then since it uses non standard tubing and barbs, you'll have to spend another +20 bucks for standard fittings and tubing.

On the other hand it might be more reliable.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Cost is nothing if a Unit fails and leaks on your hardware....
> 
> We know Antec and Corsair will..
> 
> But will Cooler Master or Swiftech?
> 
> If CoolerMaster does take my extra 40$ piece of mind is priceless.


I like the fittings and radiator Cooler Master is using, but the pump/res/block combo is worrisome to me. It just feels like too many points of failure crammed into the most important piece of the cooler. I'm more interested in the Nanoxia unit that's being shown at Computex, though they will only say it's under development. Antec is also showing off a new unit with pumps integrated into the fans, really weird looking.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I like the fittings and radiator Cooler Master is using, but the pump/res/block combo is worrisome to me. It just feels like too many points of failure crammed into the most important piece of the cooler. I'm more interested in the Nanoxia unit that's being shown at Computex, though they will only say it's under development. Antec is also showing off a new unit with pumps integrated into the fans, really weird looking.


After having one Fail on me im trying to get away from Block/pump combos it is the worst place a leak could ever happen.

Even Swiftechs premiere unit leaked on me.. And there reps will not reply to my Pm's





I like Swiftechs Kit where the Pump is on the rad.. seems much more safe and much harder to fail.


----------



## Astral Fly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I like the fittings and radiator Cooler Master is using, but the pump/res/block combo is worrisome to me. It just feels like too many points of failure crammed into the most important piece of the cooler.


The Eisberg pump is made by Alphacool, who have a lot of experience in the custom watercooling space. I'll rather use their products than some no-name in the watercooling buisness. But, of course the Eisberg is still new on the market, and till a lot of people try it out we don't know if it's reliable in the long run.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astral Fly*
> 
> The Eisberg pump is made by Alphacool, who have a lot of experience in the custom watercooling space. I'll rather use their products than some no-name in the watercooling buisness. But, of course the Eisberg is still new on the market, and till a lot of people try it out we don't know if it's reliable in the long run.


Well now that ive had a failure of a Product like these pump/block combos...

It kind of make sme think about it alittle..

These are ...

1. A water block

2. a pump

Smashed into one.. With just a rubber O ring between the two.. built by some guy in China making 30 cents a day....

With these types of Units pressure forces it's self against all Areas of the O-Ring which is a Huge Area that can fail.

A real water block is a Sealed piece of Metal HeatKiller 3.0 Etc With 2 Fittings with a Small Area of failure and low Restrictions.

On these All in ones getting hot / cold and pressure forcing on all sides at all times causes a Large area of failure in the worst place a leak can happen in your system...

The cpu ... it drips on your Mother board your gpus.. and if u have a smaller case your Psu to.

A thing to factor in also is QC and how good of a product there putting out.... Is Swictechs Product cheaper then Cooler Masters because..

1. it is made in China VS Germany

2. the seals / products used are not on par with the products Cooler Master is using?

When two Items made to compete with Eachother are not the same price and one company knows this " Cooler Master " it must mean said company has went the extra mile on there product.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well now that ive had a failure of a Product like these pump/block combos...
> 
> It kind of make sme think about it alittle..
> 
> These are ...
> 
> 1. A water block
> 
> 2. a pump
> 
> Smashed into one.. With just a rubber O ring between the two.. built by some guy in China making 30 cents a day....
> 
> With these types of Units pressure forces it's self against all Areas of the O-Ring which is a Huge Area that can fail.
> 
> A real water block is a Sealed piece of Metal HeatKiller 3.0 Etc With 2 Fittings with a Small Area of failure and low Restrictions.
> 
> On these All in ones getting hot / cold and pressure forcing on all sides at all times causes a Large area of failure in the worst place a leak can happen in your system...
> 
> The cpu ... it drips on your Mother board your gpus.. and if u have a smaller case your Psu to.
> 
> A thing to factor in also is QC and how good of a product there putting out.... Is Swictechs Product cheaper then Cooler Masters because..
> 
> 1. it is made in China VS Germany
> 
> 2. the seals / products used are not on par with the products Cooler Master is using?
> 
> When two Items made to compete with Eachother are not the same price and one company knows this " Cooler Master " it must mean said company has went the extra mile on there product.


I understand your frustration, but like I told you in my PM to you, this is the first time that this has occurred with our Apogee Drive II water block/ pump assembly. Our only issues with leaks with our H220 kit has been with a couple of units that had fittings that leaked. We've since implemented the necessary changes to prevent this issue. Since you didn't purchase the Drive II directly from us, the best we can do is replace it with another Apogee Drive II assembly. For refund or exchange support, you'll need to go through the reseller. This is pretty standard throughout the industry. Either way we would like to get this Drive II unit back from you so that we can determine what went wrong with it. Again, I do understand your frustration and we'll do what we can within the confines of our warranty policy.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I understand your frustration, but like I told you in my PM to you, this is the first time that this has occurred with our Apogee Drive II water block/ pump assembly. Our only issues with leaks with our H220 kit has been with a couple of units that had fittings that leaked. We've since implemented the necessary changes to prevent this issue. Since you didn't purchase the Drive II directly from us, the best we can do is replace it with another Apogee Drive II assembly. For refund or exchange support, you'll need to go through the reseller. This is pretty standard throughout the industry. Either way we would like to get this Drive II unit back from you so that we can determine what went wrong with it. Again, I do understand your frustration and we'll do what we can within the confines of our warranty policy.


Well there are some Extreme cases where it is ok to go outside of the Warranty Policy to go above and beyond The call of Customer service to make a catastrophic failure such as this right.

I in no Way hate the APD II units there great products that is why i loved it.. it is so great to have the pump pressure right above your Gpu blocks.

I would want your personal promise that you yourself will check thru my replacement test it / etc open it up make sure all is good before sending it to me at the very least.

I do not mind it being used.. all i care about is safety and this never happening to me again









Thx Again for the reply!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well there are some Extreme cases where it is ok to go outside of the Warranty Policy to go above and beyond The call of Customer service to make a catastrophic failure such as this right.
> 
> I in no Way hate the APD II units there great products that is why i loved it.. it is so great to have the pump pressure right above your Gpu blocks.
> 
> I would want your personal promise that you yourself will check thru my replacement test it / etc open it up make sure all is good before sending it to me at the very least.
> 
> I do not mind it being used.. all i care about is safety and this never happening to me again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx Again for the reply!


I can do that for you myself. That won't be a problem. I test all of the H220 kits before they go out for replacements as well. My email address is [email protected] Send me your invoice for your Drive II unit and I'll get to work on your RMA request when I get back in tomorrow morning. Let me know if this is satisfactory.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can do that for you myself. That won't be a problem. I test all of the H220 kits before they go out for replacements as well. My email address is [email protected] Send me your invoice for your Drive II unit and I'll get to work on your RMA request when I get back in tomorrow morning. Let me know if this is satisfactory.


Forwarded the Invoice Email to that address.


----------



## [email protected]

Interesting video showing flow rate of a H220 with graphics..


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Interesting video showing flow rate of a H220 with graphics..


Need to get more cards and see what it does with parallel config like this



Having the pumps above the Gpu blocks is a Huge Advantage.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Interesting video showing flow rate of a H220 with graphics..


Does that air bubble in the top left bother anyone else? Once I saw it I just fixated on the damned thing.


----------



## Mega Man

wow he is still going on about that. you do know all a cpu block is is 2 pieces of metal, or a plastic and a metal
Quote:


> Smashed into one.. With just a rubber O ring between the two.


does not matter if it is a pump, or block. it is not solid. to my knowledge there is not one made today by main water cooling companies that isnt. let me know if i am wrong.

if it bothers you so much feel free to make your own block out of a solid peice of copper.

dude. leaks happen, when you water cool. it sucks. but yet it is NOT swiftechs fault, stuff fails. even new products. sometimes your the bug. sometimes your the windshield.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow he is still going on about that. you do know all a cpu block is is 2 pieces of metal, or a plastic and a metal
> does not matter if it is a pump, or block. it is not solid. to my knowledge there is not one made today by main water cooling companies that isnt. let me know if i am wrong.
> 
> if it bothers you so much feel free to make your own block out of a solid peice of copper.
> 
> dude. leaks happen, when you water cool. it sucks. but yet it is NOT swiftechs fault, stuff fails. even new products. sometimes your the bug. sometimes your the windshield.


His issue is being resolved so all is well







.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow he is still going on about that. you do know all a cpu block is is 2 pieces of metal, or a plastic and a metal
> does not matter if it is a pump, or block. it is not solid. to my knowledge there is not one made today by main water cooling companies that isnt. let me know if i am wrong.
> 
> if it bothers you so much feel free to make your own block out of a solid peice of copper.
> 
> dude. leaks happen, when you water cool. it sucks. but yet it is NOT swiftechs fault, stuff fails. even new products. sometimes your the bug. sometimes your the windshield.


Dude your wrong...

There product failed it is swiftechs fault it is resolved im sorry if i hurt ur feelings about your water cooling heros and yes the heat killer block is one piece...

And somebody like me does not need wc advice from you ...

Im the guy people come to and ask about water cooling my 8 years of wc exp is known to many.

And please do not make me reply on my ipad again i hate typing on this thing.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dude your wrong...
> 
> There product failed it is swiftechs fault it is resolved im sorry if i hurt ur feelings about your water cooling heros and yes the heat killer block is one piece


It's not one piece, if it was they'd be in possession of some pretty insane not yet invented machining technology.



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14214/ex-blc-977/Heatkiller_Rev_30_11551156_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Black_14014.html


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dude your wrong...
> 
> There product failed it is swiftechs fault it is resolved im sorry if i hurt ur feelings about your water cooling heros and yes the heat killer block is one piece...
> 
> And somebody like me does not need wc advice from you ...
> 
> Im the guy people come to and ask about water cooling my 8 years of wc exp is known to many.
> 
> And please do not make me reply on my ipad again i hate typing on this thing.


BTW...I have never heard of you so you're not that well known.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> BTW...I have never heard of you so you're not that well known.


You have 16 posts lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> It's not one piece, if it was they'd be in possession of some pretty insane not yet invented machining technology.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14214/ex-blc-977/Heatkiller_Rev_30_11551156_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Black_14014.html


Touche i stand corrected


----------



## Hokies83

dbl post


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dude your wrong...
> 
> There product failed it is swiftechs fault it is resolved im sorry if i hurt ur feelings about your water cooling heros and *yes the heat killer block is one piece*...
> 
> And somebody like me does not need wc advice from you ...
> 
> Im the guy people come to and ask about water cooling my 8 years of wc exp is known to many.
> 
> And please do not make me reply on my ipad again i hate typing on this thing.


hmmm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> It's not one piece, if it was they'd be in possession of some pretty insane not yet invented machining technology.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14214/ex-blc-977/Heatkiller_Rev_30_11551156_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Black_14014.html


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hmmm


Why did you quote what i already gave him credit for ? I do not know it all i just know quite a bit. Do you own a H 220? Or did you just follow me here?

I did plumbing for a Multi Million dollar swimming pool company for 10 years .. Until i destroyed my Shoulder.. Built million dollar pools with 2 = 3 inch fittings and from 1 1/2 HP pumps to 3 HP pumps Deck jets vanishing edges i know quite abit about Water cooling and plumbing

PC water cooling is the same thing Just far scaled down version.

I do Own 4 Swiftech Pumps 3 swiftech rads 2 Swiftech blocks and a Swiftech H20 220 EDGE HD <-- i love this and suggest it to everyone...

I was able to test all my WC hardware with it... it is like a Mobile WC kit i love it lol.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the fans didn't run either then it's probably just the PWM splitter that wasn't working. Please let me know if this is the case by plugging your pump directly into the CPU fan header.


No all my fans were working I apologize I was trying to respond to his second post, But using my phone is a complete pain in the ass!! When I spoke to the customer support about my issue we determined it was the pump, I'm simply without a pc and waiting for my RMA so I'm posting in the forums a bit


----------



## dramabeats

looking to RMA my setup now.... too loud


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> looking to RMA my setup now.... too loud


How so it is like a 50% power mcp 35x should not be to loud?

What sound is it makingg?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> How so it is like a 50% power mcp 35x should not be to loud?
> 
> What sound is it makingg?


posted a video a few pages back, similar to that just not as intense at 45%


----------



## psinet

I have been trying to get my hands on this cooler in Australia for almost two months - and just got an email from pccasegear that their supplier has delayed shipment of these until the 1st July!!!!!!!

WHY Australia? WHY?









"somebody like me does not need wc advice from you ...

Im the guy people come to and ask about water cooling my 8 years of wc exp is known to many."









ROFL. ***s much. AND he was wrong about the subject matter. Priceless.


----------



## BradleyW

I just received my H220 in the UK. It is damaged so it looks like I will be waiting for another month! Plus, it cost by about 175 Euro!


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Why did you quote what i already gave him credit for ? I do not know it all i just know quite a bit. Do you own a H 220? Or did you just follow me here?
> 
> I did plumbing for a Multi Million dollar swimming pool company for 10 years .. Until i destroyed my Shoulder.. Built million dollar pools with 2 = 3 inch fittings and from 1 1/2 HP pumps to 3 HP pumps Deck jets vanishing edges i know quite abit about Water cooling and plumbing
> 
> PC water cooling is the same thing Just far scaled down version.
> 
> I do Own 4 Swiftech Pumps 3 swiftech rads 2 Swiftech blocks and a Swiftech H20 220 EDGE HD <-- i love this and suggest it to everyone...
> 
> I was able to test all my WC hardware with it... it is like a Mobile WC kit i love it lol.


I feel your pain. How old was the cpu block that failed?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I just received my H220 in the UK. It is damaged so it looks like I will be waiting for another month! Plus, it cost by about 175 Euro!


Could you explain those pics a bit? The first one is a bit hard to see from the flash. In the second one is the damage in the rad or the fan?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I just received my H220 in the UK. It is damaged so it looks like I will be waiting for another month! Plus, it cost by about 175 Euro!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that sucks man ~ should hit up bram or gabe both will get you fixed !~
bram is on every day and really quick about answering
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Could you explain those pics a bit? The first one is a bit hard to see from the flash. In the second one is the damage in the rad or the fan?


+1
in the bottome i see an extra piece under the fan


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I feel your pain. How old was the cpu block that failed?


Invoice says i got it in Dec 2012

I did not start using it till maybe march tho In Feb is was leak tested.

Ive Got 3 Water cooled systems so trying to bounce parts between the 3 to test stuff is a pita lol.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Could you explain those pics a bit? The first one is a bit hard to see from the flash. In the second one is the damage in the rad or the fan?


First pic shows bad kink on the tube. It is very obvious when looking at the unit in person.
Second pic, the fan is broken in 3 places and the fan blades are almost fully detached from the shroud. I have highlighted 1 of the 3 broken areas. Cheers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that sucks man ~ should hit up bram or gabe both will get you fixed !~
> bram is on every day and really quick about answering
> +1
> in the bottome i see an extra piece under the fan


I will contact them later if they don't see my post on this thread. Thanks buddy.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Invoice says i got it in Dec 2012
> 
> I did not start using it till maybe march tho In Feb is was leak tested.
> 
> Ive Got 3 Water cooled systems so trying to bounce parts between the 3 to test stuff is a pita lol.


I think the industry has to start rethinking its warranty for defective product. On something that NEW a purchase, if the leak is strictly due to manufacturing defect they should be responsible for damage to all computer components. But the custom loop manufacturers do NOT see it that way. Swiftech probably has the same warranty as the other competitors have. But in this particular instance where the head fails and leaks.,they should be responsible for motherboard and if graphics card and cpu fail also for them. Even if it meant an extra $5 in price per unit to cover damages, it would give a sigh of relief to the customer. If there is an industry association for custom loop manufacturers, it would be nice if we could contact them and also if Gabe would advocate for us so that they could change the industry warranty standards. One company is going to be fearful to change it on their own and face higher costs in a competitive market. Of course that company could use their warranty as a SELLING POINT in their advertising and product demos. That puts a lot of heat on the competition as far as warranty coverage.

The other commentators here who say it just happens are being subjective. This was not an act of God. It was caused by a scientifically determinable reason. The fly and the windshield is Not an apt analogy.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I think the industry has to start rethinking its warranty for defective product. On something that NEW a purchase, if the leak is strictly due to manufacturing defect they should be responsible for damage to all computer components. But the custom loop manufacturers do NOT see it that way. Swiftech probably has the same warranty as the other competitors have. But in this particular instance where the head fails and leaks.,they should be responsible for motherboard and if graphics card and cpu fail also for them. Even if it meant an extra $5 in price per unit to cover damages, it would give a sigh of relief to the customer. If there is an industry association for custom loop manufacturers, it would be nice if we could contact them and also if Gabe would advocate for us so that they could change the industry warranty standards. One company is going to be fearful to change it on their own and face higher costs in a competitive market. Of course that company could use their warranty as a SELLING POINT in their advertising and product demos. That puts a lot of heat on the competition as far as warranty coverage.
> 
> The other commentators here who say it just happens are being subjective. This was not an act of God. It was caused by a scientifically determinable reason. The fly and the windshield is Not an apt analogy.


They are responsible for the damages a defect of there product caused.

But under there policy's they will not cover it you have to take a Legal action.. Just like you would if you bought something Like a car... and it caught fire and burned your garage down...

Your insurance company Pays you .. in return the insurance company sues the maker of the car... and the maker of the car goes to the maker of the item that caused the damages.

There are afew other options

You can buy insurance for your computer

Or you can clean the damaged parts up and RMA them.. which is not fair to said company cause it is not there fault.

The Best option to me is this..

Water cooling Company's offer a optional insurance fee to cover damaged parts due to a Manufacturing Defect...

There increased sales and the Fee would more then cover the losses and they would profit from it much more then lose...
A company has to be willing to give that level of customer service tho...

They would have to have it where u have to send your hardware in for testing to.


----------



## Lil-Diabo

Installed mine over the weekend but having some difficulty with the PWM settings.
What's even stranger is that if I set it to a custom level in the BIOS, changing the speeds on speedfan makes no difference at all.
I had it kinda working earlier by setting a target temp and level, but even then it used to shoot up to about 2000 RPM, since the fans are all controlled via the same PWM, this makes the whole system a little noisier than I'd hoped.
Will have to tweak it a little more I guess, DAMN you Asrock!!

Installed it in my Arc Mini at the top but as an intake with the side panel fan as an exhaust, must say I'm really happy with the temps overall
CPU Cores idle between about 24 - 28 (Each of them varies) - This is with roughly 21 Ambient.

Planning on pushing the CPU (which has no overclock now) a little when I get time

Now all I need is for the Komodo block to be on promotion somewhere


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> They are responsible for the damages a defect of there product caused.
> 
> But under there policy's they will not cover it you have to take a Legal action.. Just like you would if you bought something Like a car... and it caught fire and burned your garage down...
> 
> Your insurance company Pays you .. in return the insurance company sues the maker of the car... and the maker of the car goes to the maker of the item that caused the damages.
> 
> There are afew other options
> 
> You can buy insurance for your computer
> 
> Or you can clean the damaged parts up and RMA them.. which is not fair to said company cause it is not there fault.
> 
> The Best option to me is this..
> 
> Water cooling Company's offer a optional insurance fee to cover damaged parts due to a Manufacturing Defect...
> 
> There increased sales and the Fee would more then cover the losses and they would profit from it much more then lose...
> A company has to be willing to give that level of customer service tho...
> 
> They would have to have it where u have to send your hardware in for testing to.


Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that Corsair covers damage from leaks to any other components in the computer. I do understand that this product isn't exactly in the same category, but it would be nice if it carried a similar warranty for those who wish to utilize this without any modifications at all.

Edit: Here is a post from someone that contacted Corsair by phone.


----------



## ez12a

the problem is that there is a lot of shady people out there who will claim damage from swiftech's product. Loosen this screw here, leak, oh look damage! Swiftech shouldnt be obligated to replace hardware for a system that can be opened by the user.

not saying anyone in particular is like this, but there are people out there that do crap like this. Go to any Fry's electronics store.


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone know if it will fit in the Silverstone Temjin TJ-04EW mid-tower?????????


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psinet*
> 
> I have been trying to get my hands on this cooler in Australia for almost two months - and just got an email from pccasegear that their supplier has delayed shipment of these until the 1st July!!!!!!!


I don't think so. Merchandise was shipped last week. whoever sent you that email was misinformed.

G-


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I just received my H220 in the UK. It is damaged so it looks like I will be waiting for another month! Plus, it cost by about 175 Euro!


I think the kink will disappear over time. But no problem if you want it changed.
But I do see the broken fan. This has got to be shipping, but we'll replace it anyways. Your service center is bacata in France. [email protected]
I am forwarding copy of your post to them. You must follow-up with them by sending them copy of invoice and serial number of the unit.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I think the kink will disappear over time. But no problem if you want it changed.
> But I do see the broken fan. This has got to be shipping, but we'll replace it anyways. Your service center is bacata in France. [email protected]
> I am forwarding copy of your post to them. You must follow-up with them by sending them copy of invoice and serial number of the unit.


I think he's referring to the black arm underneath the fan.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I think he's referring to the black arm underneath the fan.


That's part of the fan. One of 4 arms that hold the fan motor to the shroud just like any other fan.

@BradleyW as Gabe said, that kink will come out. You can heat it a little bit with a blowdryer if you want to speed the process but only about 10 seconds at a time and then push the kink out. Don't RMA the unit over the fan, follow up with bacata as Gabe mentioned and they will send you a new one to replace it. It's just 4 screws...


----------



## Hokies83

Yah i think I'd leak test the unit and replace the fan myself.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You have 16 posts lol.
> Touche i stand corrected


But I've been here a long time lurking in the shadows reading posts for the past 10 years. So...that sums up my point.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> But I've been here a long time lurking in the shadows reading posts for the past 10 years. So...that sums up my point.


Then your not reading enough.


----------



## TheEnergy

Just to give you guys an update as of 6/11/2013:

They are IN STOCK again at newegg.com

Just ordered mine today, Tuesday 6/11/2013 and really crossing my fingers that the 240mm radiator fits in my Silverstone Temjin TJ-04EW case!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just to give you guys an update as of 6/11/2013:
> 
> They are IN STOCK again at newegg.com
> 
> Just ordered mine today, Tuesday 6/11/2013 and really crossing my fingers that the 240mm radiator fits in my Silverstone Temjin TJ-04EW case!


Sure it will fit a 240mm rad will fit in any Mid power with a little mod work


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Sure it will fit a 240mm rad will fit in any Mid power with a little mod work


NO, that's the point, I don't want to "mod" the case or cut it up *****.

I would rather just get a case that fits the rad I am desiring.

I emailed Silverstone and it should fit with NO MOD work.

I'm not one to cut/chop up a pretty new case that I purchased, so if it doesn't work it's getting RETURNED.


----------



## marc0053

Is there a better 120mm fan than Noctua's NF F12 to replace the H220 stock fans while being somewhat quiet?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Is there a better 120mm fan than Noctua's NF F12 to replace the H220 stock fans while being somewhat quiet?


Gentle Typhoon Ap-15s would be an alternative. On paper the GTs have a higher static pressure if i remember correctly. It does have a different noise profile though, typical of ball bearing fans apparently.

edit: I forgot, the GTs are voltage controlled and wont work with the included h220 PWM splitter. I control mine through my motherboard.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Is there a better 120mm fan than Noctua's NF F12 to replace the H220 stock fans while being somewhat quiet?


Akasa Apache's are solid fans, as are their Viper fans and they're PWM controlled.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> NO, that's the point, I don't want to "mod" the case or cut it up *****.
> 
> I would rather just get a case that fits the rad I am desiring.
> 
> I emailed Silverstone and it should fit with NO MOD work.
> 
> I'm not one to cut/chop up a pretty new case that I purchased, so if it doesn't work it's getting RETURNED.


May I kindly suggest that you look at the radiator schematics before buying the product, trying it an returning it if it doesn't work? We document our products extensively to avoid this. disappointment, frustration, costs, etc...

Here it is below. Then take a tape measure, and start looking at your case


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that Corsair covers damage from leaks to any other components in the computer. I do understand that this product isn't exactly in the same category, but it would be nice if it carried a similar warranty for those who wish to utilize this without any modifications at all.
> 
> Edit: Here is a post from someone that contacted Corsair by phone.


This was not an H220 but another head made by Swiftech , an Apogee . Nonetheless The leak was not caused by customer error. It is strictly a manufacturing defect within the warranty period for the head.
Apparently you have to go to small claims court to fight this. I believe they allow claims up to $1000 in most states. I do not think this is fair to the customer. But it is not uncommon. Which is a statement in itself about consumer protection these days. In court the onus is on the plaintiff to show a preponderance of evidence to win. That means the weight of evidence must be in the plaintiff's favor to win. Time lost, aggravation, there has to be a better way.

I recently sent my H100 to Corsair. Apparently when I rearranged the corsair fans to be set to intake one or more screws punctured the radiatoir, even though they went into the proper screw holes. The screws are longer so you can put in an optional rubber washer. Well if you don't use the optional rubber washer apparently you can puncture the radiator. Of course no mention of this in the Corsair literature. This is a case of manufacturing error. They could have eginneered a cheap and effective fix to prevent this puncture. A metal tab could be fixed to the radiator where the screw tip aligns with the radiator when tightened. Corsair george who frequents this site is helping me with my claim. Not only is the H100 kaput, so was my $229 Asus Crosshair V motherboard. I am hoping to get prorated rembursement for both. The h100 was only 5 months old. The motherboard was a little less than 2 years old. I provided my receipts. Hope to get about $175 back in total. That is of course if I get anything. I think Corsair George will put in a good word to keep things nice on the site here. He does want happy customers. Fingers crossed. By the way there was no way by feel to know if the screws were going in too far.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> May I kindly suggest that you look at the radiator schematics before buying the product, trying it an returning it if it doesn't work? We document our products extensively to avoid this. disappointment, frustration, costs, etc...
> 
> Here it is below. Then take a tape measure, and start looking at your case


But...but... that would require some common sense....... God forbid someone could take 3 minutes and actually measure something instead of sending it back because they made the mistake and are just lazy....


----------



## ez12a

for people wondering about fitment, you can probably find someone who installed a h100 or any other 240mm CLC in your case along with pictures. Add another 1" in depth and an extra .5" in length for the reservoir on one end and you should have a good idea if it fits or not.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> for people wondering about fitment, you can probably find someone who installed a h100 or any other 240mm CLC in your case along with pictures. Add another 1" in depth and an extra .5" in length for the reservoir on one end and you should have a good idea if it fits or not.


The reservoir is what can cause problems for some people, I got lucky and my case fit it like a glove. There's no measurement from the screw holes to the reservoir which left some guess work for me, that's the only dimension I feel needs to be added.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I think the industry has to start rethinking its warranty for defective product. On something that NEW a purchase, if the leak is strictly due to manufacturing defect they should be responsible for damage to all computer components. But the custom loop manufacturers do NOT see it that way. Swiftech probably has the same warranty as the other competitors have. But in this particular instance where the head fails and leaks.,they should be responsible for motherboard and if graphics card and cpu fail also for them. Even if it meant an extra $5 in price per unit to cover damages, it would give a sigh of relief to the customer. If there is an industry association for custom loop manufacturers, it would be nice if we could contact them and also if Gabe would advocate for us so that they could change the industry warranty standards. One company is going to be fearful to change it on their own and face higher costs in a competitive market. Of course that company could use their warranty as a SELLING POINT in their advertising and product demos. That puts a lot of heat on the competition as far as warranty coverage.
> 
> The other commentators here who say it just happens are being subjective. This was not an act of God. It was caused by a scientifically determinable reason. The fly and the windshield is Not an apt analogy.


sorry but i have to disagree. time for people to stop trying to have everyone else deal with life for them. leaks is an issure that can happen. period. if you dont feel fomfortable with that dont cool with water. really sick of hearing people act like they didnt know water + electronics are bad. and thinking there is no risk. there is a risk for everything. either take the risk ( and with that the consequences. whether good or bad.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lil-Diabo*
> 
> Installed mine over the weekend but having some difficulty with the PWM settings.
> What's even stranger is that if I set it to a custom level in the BIOS, changing the speeds on speedfan makes no difference at all.
> I had it kinda working earlier by setting a target temp and level, but even then it used to shoot up to about 2000 RPM, since the fans are all controlled via the same PWM, this makes the whole system a little noisier than I'd hoped.
> Will have to tweak it a little more I guess, DAMN you Asrock!!
> 
> Installed it in my Arc Mini at the top but as an intake with the side panel fan as an exhaust, must say I'm really happy with the temps overall
> CPU Cores idle between about 24 - 28 (Each of them varies) - This is with roughly 21 Ambient.
> 
> Planning on pushing the CPU (which has no overclock now) a little when I get time
> 
> Now all I need is for the Komodo block to be on promotion somewhere


frozen cpu promo code OCN =5% off. or you can use your 10% off one time coupon from them for writing a review
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> But I've been here a long time lurking in the shadows reading posts for the past 10 years. So...that sums up my point.


glad that you joined. just ignore the nay sayers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> This was not an H220 but another head made by Swiftech , an Apogee . Nonetheless The leak was not caused by customer error. It is strictly a manufacturing defect within the warranty period for the head.
> Apparently you have to go to small claims court to fight this. I believe they allow claims up to $1000 in most states. I do not think this is fair to the customer. But it is not uncommon. Which is a statement in itself about consumer protection these days. In court the onus is on the plaintiff to show a preponderance of evidence to win. That means the weight of evidence must be in the plaintiff's favor to win. Time lost, aggravation, there has to be a better way.
> 
> I recently sent my H100 to Corsair. Apparently when I rearranged the corsair fans to be set to intake one or more screws punctured the radiatoir, even though they went into the proper screw holes. The screws are longer so you can put in an optional rubber washer. Well if you don't use the optional rubber washer apparently you can puncture the radiator. Of course no mention of this in the Corsair literature. This is a case of manufacturing error. They could have eginneered a cheap and effective fix to prevent this puncture. A metal tab could be fixed to the radiator where the screw tip aligns with the radiator when tightened. Corsair george who frequents this site is helping me with my claim. Not only is the H100 kaput, so was my $229 Asus Crosshair V motherboard. I am hoping to get prorated rembursement for both. The h100 was only 5 months old. The motherboard was a little less than 2 years old. I provided my receipts. Hope to get about $175 back in total. That is of course if I get anything. I think Corsair George will put in a good word to keep things nice on the site here. He does want happy customers. Fingers crossed. By the way there was no way by feel to know if the screws were going in too far.


and i have replied several times to you. pretty sure alphacool has a patent that makes any other company doing this .... well open to a lawsuit. it is well documented everywhere i have looked. "make sure your screws dont puncture the rad" sorry imo user error.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Pump ended up getting so noisy I had to do something...
> 
> I drained the system through a coffee filter and flushed with distilled water... Ran the system through about a gallon of distilled off and on while pausing to tilt and shake the rad around to dislodge whatever might have been in there. Then refilled with the OG fluid and topped off with distilled water after having let it run while tilting for over an hour to rid the air from the system.
> 
> This is what I found:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whatever it is its metal... No more "grinding" or "gurgling"... My temps are much better now as well, about 4-5c full load lower (Didn't expect this... but amazed non the less).
> 
> ADDED: the dime was place for size reference next to the foreign black objects that came out of the loop.


Interesting, I had a lot of stuff in my system, nothing as large as that though. Mostly small black chips of metal and plastic, and some white stuff (paint?). My pump had grinding noises right away, and it stopped turning after a little while. Before it stopped, I tried bleeding air out of the system and tried topping it up with distilled water. In the end I took it apart, way too curious, and no energy for a RMA processes. Maybe not the smartest thing to do, but I find kind of weird pleasure in taking things apart, finding out how they work and hopefully fix them and put them back together. I was worse at the latter part as a kid









Anyway, on the pump impeller there was a thick splash of paint? Tried to scrape it off with a plastic scraper, no go, had to dissolve it in isopropyl alcohol. Here's a picture (crappy phone camera, unskilled operator):


That white stuff was everywhere, visible on the inside of the tubes, etc. A couple more pictures of the copper plate, the finns were full of stuff, had to brush and gently pry them off

and housing (the white stuff is much more visible, but there were a lot of little black splinters/chips too):


I flushed the system though a coffee filter, it looked like this afterwards (kinda gross, yeah):


Distilled water wasn't enough to get the rad clean, I could still see residue of the white stuff (paint, paste, whatever it was it was sticky) inside the rad looking through the fill-port, so I flushed it out with alcohol. That fixed it.

But the pump still wouldn't turn. And when I lifted up the impeller out of the motor casing, I found out why. The magnet fell of the impeller axle. The adhesive had just let go, and the magnet had slid off the axle until it hit the top of the motor housing. Some grinding marks there, but not enough by far to account for all the little plastic bits in the coolant. So I glued it back on with some good stuff I had laying around. I do some miniature modelling as well as automotive stuff, good adhesive kinda becomes a household staple







(I know I have some Loctite 14486 *somewhere* here).

And now it works like a charm, have had it running for about a week now, no problems. Only audible on high rpm:s. Performance is impressive, I have an Apogee Drive 2 and it is not very far behind that. My old dual core Phenom 2 can't really challenge the cooling performance even when overclocked to 4 GHz, stays well under 40 degrees C. The pump probably can't power through as many restrictive blocks as the MCP35x, but not bad at all for a low wattage pump.

I bought my kit as soon as it was available here the beginning of march (10th IIRC), swedish shop that I think really is a danish retailer originally: http://www.coolerkit.se/
I was originally planning on using the kit right away, but alas, silly real life problems came between me and my fun stuff. The kit sat on a shelf of over a month, forlorn...








But now it is back in action, as i should be!









EDIT: Oh, forgot the back-in-action-shot I made, here the H220 runs in my test system:

Some older stuff in a HAF-XB, good for testing and general tinkering. Some clear flex tubing on it for now.


----------



## michael-ocn

I wonder, is the paint on the pump blade there to assist in the optical measurement of rpm at some point in the manufacturing process?


----------



## Dudewitbow

the tiny white particles are most likely plasticizer, which comes off of tubing. its used to make tubing more bendable.


----------



## dramabeats

If swiftech doesn't respond to my email I'm going to drain mine as well, not very happy with this product right now despite the awesome reviews


----------



## Gabrielzm

Another update and (knock on wood) the end of almost 2 months of problems. Two RMA's latter I got yesterday my third pump. The first two behave in on-off mode under stress and with temps spikes. Bryan and Swiftech sent me directly to Brazil just the replacement pump. Drained the second unit (first RMA) and exchange the pump/block, mount it up again, leak tested, then into the case and bingo, so far so good with no failures of the pump under stress (prime95 for about an hour so far with other 3 or 4 quick tests of 20 minutes before this long run - I will leave overnight with coretemp protection just in case). The first two units usually after 10 or 15 minutes of prime95 would fail...

Bryan I got the second pump ready and we should talk about sending back to you.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but i have to disagree. time for people to stop trying to have everyone else deal with life for them. leaks is an issure that can happen. period. if you dont feel fomfortable with that dont cool with water. really sick of hearing people act like they didnt know water + electronics are bad. and thinking there is no risk. there is a risk for everything. either take the risk ( and with that the consequences. whether good or bad.)
> frozen cpu promo code OCN =5% off. or you can use your 10% off one time coupon from them for writing a review
> glad that you joined. just ignore the nay sayers.
> and i have replied several times to you. pretty sure alphacool has a patent that makes any other company doing this .... well open to a lawsuit. it is well documented everywhere i have looked. "make sure your screws dont puncture the rad" sorry imo user error.


That proviso "make sure you don't puncture the radiator" is supposed to take them off the hook? There is no way to be sure that you don't puncture the radiator unless you have the radiator loose. if they suggest rubber grommets they should supply rubber grommets. They in fact don't suggest rubber grommets in the installation guide. You have a very Neanderthal concept regarding product liability.Design the product properly with safety engineering and things like this don't happen. With your thinking cars would not have airbags nor brakes in all likelihood. Masses of people fought for these changes, that is why they happened.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone find the best setting for the pump speed when not running a loop. I am just cooling the cpu for now.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> That proviso "make sure you don't puncture the radiator" is supposed to take them off the hook? There is no way to be sure that you don't puncture the radiator unless you have the radiator loose. if they suggest rubber grommets they should supply rubber grommets. They in fact don't suggest rubber grommets in the installation guide. You have a very Neanderthal concept regarding product liability.Design the product properly with safety engineering and things like this don't happen. With your thinking cars would not have airbags nor brakes in all likelihood. Masses of people fought for these changes, that is why they happened.


I'm with Mega Man in thought. I hate paying extra for insurance/RMA/etc whatever. The main point though I believe was in regard to water cooling risks. Laing DDC pumps are a pretty good example, they are a pump where user error is a real high risk when changing out pump tops. I myself have flooded out a pump at least once by not tightening the top correctly. When that happens water flows down into the PCB and usually shorts out the pump. "Innocent Users" often would assume manufacturing defect and submit for RMA. This was happening so often that the "warranty VoId if removed" stickers were added as a means to help ensure it wasn't user error. I have also had dozens and dozens of little leaks here and there throughout my time in water cooling. I have managed to kill a power supply and a few other bits. We make mistakes, it happens...

The H220 is like any custom water cooling and there are risks involved mostly due to user error. I accept that risk and responsibility if I leak on my hardware and expect everyone else to do the same. I don't agree with having to pay a premium for the next new user that makes the same mistakes I did. In home ownership you have licensed plumbers and building inspectors for a very good reason, not everyone should be DIY plumbing without being qualified or inspected. In DIY water-cooling, you don't have to get a certification (training) nor do you have to pay $100 for a building permit and inspection(QA). That's the sort of costs and processes you would need to make certain it is not user error that caused a leak. I would leave it be.. Air cooling or sealed CLCs are for those that want full coverage.

My 2c


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone find the best setting for the pump speed when not running a loop. I am just cooling the cpu for now.


20-30% works for me. Whatever is silent and still giving you plenty good temps. At most I could only measure about a 2c loss from full speed to minimum.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I wonder, is the paint on the pump blade there to assist in the optical measurement of rpm at some point in the manufacturing process?


Interesting idea, I can't really say though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the tiny white particles are most likely plasticizer, which comes off of tubing. its used to make tubing more bendable.


You think so? Interesting. I have mostly used clearflex tubing that is quite soft, but I have never seen anything quite like it. Many of the white particles were sticky and smeared all over when I tried to wipe it off. I haven't used the black tubing since I flushed them clean, but they feel very similar to the clearflex I'm familiar with. Not that I'm an expert or anything, far from it. I just like to tinker with tech, make it tick to my own tune. I greatly appreciate your input!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> The H220 is like any custom water cooling and there are risks involved mostly due to user error. I accept that risk and responsibility if I leak on my hardware and expect everyone else to do the same. I don't agree with having to pay a premium for the next new user that makes the same mistakes I did. In home ownership you have licensed plumbers and building inspectors for a very good reason, not everyone should be DIY plumbing without being qualified or inspected. In DIY water-cooling, you don't have to get a certification (training) nor do you have to pay $100 for a building permit and inspection(QA). That's the sort of costs and processes you would need to make certain it is not user error that caused a leak. I would leave it be.. Air cooling or sealed CLCs are for those that want full coverage.


I must say that I agree wholeheartedly. Sure it sucks when you make mistakes and waste money/time etc. But people have their own responsibility to make their own mistakes, and hopefully learn a thing or two in the process. Can't have it both ways. Reviewers like you Martin do us all a great service, showing us stuff so we don't have to make so many ill advised decisions. Thanks!


----------



## Philly27

Mine arrives Thursday!


----------



## gdubc

Congrats!


----------



## Teufelshunde

My H220 is in route and arrives this week. Is it recommended to do an external leak test using the PSU jump start method and if so how long should I run it and how long can it be ran (min/max)? This will be a 1st build as well so I am going to be skeptically cautious after reading all the 300 plus posts here and other sites but am crossing fingers as the H220 does have some of the higher reviews. My intent is to break my new rig in on the stock cooler and then swap to the H220. Any and all advice is appreciated.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> My H220 is in route and arrives this week. Is it recommended to do an external leak test using the PSU jump start method and if so how long should I run it and how long can it be ran (min/max)? This will be a 1st build as well so I am going to be skeptically cautious after reading all the 300 plus posts here and other sites but am crossing fingers as the H220 does have some of the higher reviews. My intent is to break my new rig in on the stock cooler and then swap to the H220. Any and all advice is appreciated.


Leak testing i always do a Min of 24 hrs with highest pump setting " so unit / loop is under max pressure "


----------



## Watagump

I didn't leak test my H220, just put it in and tried 182367545238204854 different fan combos.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I didn't leak test my H220, just put it in and tried 182367545238204854 different fan combos.


Bad Mr Gump!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Bad Mr Gump!


That's how I roll, Mr Hokie.


----------



## Face2Face

Watagump - Seeing a big difference going from H110 to the H220? Also how hot does your 4.8Ghz 3570K get with the H220?
I am looking @ the H100i, H220 and CM Eisberg 240L


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> That's how I roll, Mr Hokie.


Not leak testing kind of = this to me lol.

However i leak tested and still got owned


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Watagump - Seeing a big difference going from H110 to the H220? Also how hot does your 4.8Ghz 3570K get with the H220?
> I am looking @ the H100i, H220 and CM Eisberg 240L


I saw a temp difference of about 4-5 degrees from the H110 to the H220. I get around the low to mid 70's with Prime. Of course its going to vary with my ambient and whether or not
the AC is going.


----------



## Face2Face

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I saw a temp difference of about 4-5 degrees from the H110 to the H220. I get around the low to mid 70's with Prime. Of course its going to vary with my ambient and whether or not
> the AC is going.


Sweet, I may be getting one soon. Thanks!


----------



## Teufelshunde

Leak test it will be


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I wonder, is the paint on the pump blade there to assist in the optical measurement of rpm at some point in the manufacturing process?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the tiny white particles are most likely plasticizer, which comes off of tubing. its used to make tubing more bendable.


The paint on the impeller signifies to us that it was balanced before being put into the pump and used in our H220 kit. The tiny white particles are also most likely plasticizer, just like Dudewitbow mentioned. This plasticizer shouldn't pose any harm to the pump or the performance of this kit.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I'm with Mega Man in thought. I hate paying extra for insurance/RMA/etc whatever. The main point though I believe was in regard to water cooling risks. Laing DDC pumps are a pretty good example, they are a pump where user error is a real high risk when changing out pump tops. I myself have flooded out a pump at least once by not tightening the top correctly. When that happens water flows down into the PCB and usually shorts out the pump. "Innocent Users" often would assume manufacturing defect and submit for RMA. This was happening so often that the "warranty VoId if removed" stickers were added as a means to help ensure it wasn't user error. I have also had dozens and dozens of little leaks here and there throughout my time in water cooling. I have managed to kill a power supply and a few other bits. We make mistakes, it happens...
> 
> The H220 is like any custom water cooling and there are risks involved mostly due to user error. I accept that risk and responsibility if I leak on my hardware and expect everyone else to do the same. I don't agree with having to pay a premium for the next new user that makes the same mistakes I did. In home ownership you have licensed plumbers and building inspectors for a very good reason, not everyone should be DIY plumbing without being qualified or inspected. In DIY water-cooling, you don't have to get a certification (training) nor do you have to pay $100 for a building permit and inspection(QA). That's the sort of costs and processes you would need to make certain it is not user error that caused a leak. I would leave it be.. Air cooling or sealed CLCs are for those that want full coverage.
> 
> My 2c


I was never talking about leaks caused by anything but mechanical failure when it came to Swiftech. My own issue with Corsair is just due to a non-chalante attitude regarding the way their fan screws fit into their receptacles. That is an engineering issue that should be addressed by the manufacturer. Screwing in a fan should not pierce a radiator if the screw or the radiator receptacle are designed properly. This is a laissez faire and cavalier attitude by some manufacturers not to minimize the risk of damage. One should not have to have mechanical skills or clairvoyance to install fan screws into the radiator of especially an AIO product. It is incumbent on the manufacturer to minimize risks by good design. WE are not living in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when there was no concept of product safety and preventive engineering techniques to reduce risks of damage to products. JUST because you specialize in water cooling and obviously have developed skills to minimize damage from your own experience, does NOT mean EVERY one else should be held to that standard. I am not a custom loop person and I probably will never be. I just expect things to work and install simply and without risk.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Since no one answered me earlier, does anyone have any idea as to why I can't control my pump speed? I can change the fan speeds, but pump stays at 3200ish rpm. I have them all hooked through the splitter plugged into my cpu fan header.
Motherboard is a MSI-Z77A-G41


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Since no one answered me earlier, does anyone have any idea as to why I can't control my pump speed? I can change the fan speeds, but pump stays at 3200ish rpm. I have them all hooked through the splitter plugged into my cpu fan header.
> Motherboard is a MSI-Z77A-G41


Can you try running the pump directly off of your CPU fan header? This will help me to know if it's an issue with our splitter or a problem with the pump.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you try running the pump directly off of your CPU fan header? This will help me to know if it's an issue with our splitter or a problem with the pump.


I have done this and it was still the same issue. No matter what I changed in my bios or how hot/cool the cpu was the pump speed stayed the same.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> I have done this and it was still the same issue. No matter what I changed in my bios or how hot/cool the cpu was the pump speed stayed the same.


Has it always been this way, or is this something that has started to occur recently?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Has it always been this way, or is this something that has started to occur recently?


Yes, since the first day I plugged it in its been this way (About a week ago). I have tried different tihngs myself, but now I am at a loss.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Yes, since the first day I plugged it in its been this way (About a week ago). I have tried different tihngs myself, but now I am at a loss.


OK. Send me an email at [email protected] with a copy of your invoice for this kit and the serial number from the radiator. This serial number will be on the reservoir side of the radiator and it will start with the number 2013. Once I have this information I can issue you an RMA number for a replacement.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK. Send me an email at [email protected] with a copy of your invoice for this kit and the serial number from the radiator. This serial number will be on the reservoir side of the radiator and it will start with the number 2013. Once I have this information I can issue you an RMA number for a replacement.


Why not put a Speed control on the MCP 35X like the MCP 655 has. Or atleast make it an Option.

And do away with the Extra PWN wire it is extra wires to try and hide lol

See my try at hiding it... One wire is not so hard to hide but 2 is kinda tough... I ran it at 100% because it was above 3 WBs so i have enough restriction there to do so....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Why not put a Speed control on the MCP 35X like the MCP 655 has. Or atleast make it an Option.
> 
> And do away with the Extra PWN wire it is extra wires to try and hide lol
> 
> See my try at hiding it... One wire is not so hard to hide but 2 is kinda tough... I ran it at 100% because it was above 3 WBs so i have enough restriction there to do so....


As far as the MCP 35X goes that's manufactured by Laing, so that will be up to them to implement. Our in-house pump on the H220 though is designed to be used with PWM control for the easiest way to change and monitor pump speeds. I don't think there are too many people that want to open their case each time they have to change their pump speed. I know that's one of the reasons I like the PWM control of my MCP35X2 pump system.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As far as the MCP 35X goes that's manufactured by Laing, so that will be up to them to implement. Our in-house pump on the H220 though is designed to be used with PWM control for the easiest way to change and monitor pump speeds. I don't think there are too many people that want to open their case each time they have to change their pump speed. I know that's one of the reasons I like the PWM control of my MCP35X2 pump system.


Yeah you have some people that perfer that im more of a looks guy lol.
If u check my MB in the picture there is nothing plugged into it that does not need to be there...

I power it on with the on board power button..

But i almost never turned it off ran 24/7 but i have the top of the case un screwed it is a Mountain mods Ascension so it is a fully modular case so i just do not screw the top down.. i can slide the top reach in and hit the power button at will lol.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah you have some people that perfer that im more of a looks guy lol.
> If u check my MB in the picture there is nothing plugged into it that does not need to be there...
> 
> I power it on with the on board power button..
> 
> But i almost never turned it off ran 24/7 but i have the top of the case un screwed it is a Mountain mods Ascension so it is a fully modular case so i just do not screw the top down.. i can slide the top reach in and hit the power button at will lol.


I understand where you're coming from, but you certainly aren't the norm. From my experience most users would prefer to have the controls on their desktop rather than having to open their case just to change something. They are also likely not to mind having a couple of extra wires in order to facilitate this. It's a matter of preference, but most people would prefer the easiest method available and that's myself included.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I understand where you're coming from, but you certainly aren't the norm. From my experience most users would prefer to have the controls on their desktop rather than having to open their case just to change something. They are also likely not to mind having a couple of extra wires in order to facilitate this. It's a matter of preference, but most people would prefer the easiest method available and that's myself included.


Yeah im a bit different like this build / case lol



Who need 5.25 bays / 2.5 bays?

HDDs work with Zip Ties! so do SSDs! And if you need to use a rom Plug in a power cable and a sata connector and run it on your desk lol why take up space in your case!

That one is under constrction atm it is getting a full WC loop the H2O-X20 Edge HD Series... + Heat killer blocks on the Gpu.s


----------



## dramabeats

funny how my hyper 212 in push/pull is 5c cooler than the h220 I just pulled off of it, maybe the next unit will be better.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> funny how my hyper 212 in push/pull is 5c cooler than the h220 I just pulled off of it, maybe the next unit will be better.


Keep me posted on how things go with your new unit and PM me if you have any questions or issues with it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> funny how my hyper 212 in push/pull is 5c cooler than the h220 I just pulled off of it, maybe the next unit will be better.


What motherboard do you have? Were the sqivel barbs touching anything or really close? It sounds like you could have a bad mount, but I don't remember which issue was yours or where your post is.


----------



## Face2Face

Think I am going with the H220. I have looked at some many AIO's and now the CM Eisberg 120L. I think the H220 looks the best from all of the research I have done. Does anyone know if they are coming out with a model that has white tubing? If not can anyone recommend some tubing that I can buy @ FrozenCPU?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Think I am going with the H220. I have looked at some many AIO's and now the CM Eisberg 120L. I think the H220 looks the best from all of the research I have done. Does anyone know if they are coming out with a model that has white tubing? If not can anyone recommend some tubing that I can buy @ FrozenCPU?


A version with white tubing is coming, but not sure about ETA. I have white tubing on mine and I used XSPC tubing. works and looks great. You can also buy additional white tubing from Swiftech store.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What motherboard do you have? Were the sqivel barbs touching anything or really close? It sounds like you could have a bad mount, but I don't remember which issue was yours or where your post is.


UD3H, pump noise


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Think I am going with the H220. I have looked at some many AIO's and now the CM Eisberg 120L. I think the H220 looks the best from all of the research I have done. Does anyone know if they are coming out with a model that has white tubing? If not can anyone recommend some tubing that I can buy @ FrozenCPU?


Swiftech will soon have white TrueFlex tubing available, and I believe they are still considering an H220 with white tubing. Alternatively XSPC white tubing is your best bet for right now IMO.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> UD3H, pump noise


AMD or Intel?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> AMD or Intel?


intel


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philly27*
> 
> Mine arrives Thursday!


congrats to everyone who is getting one. you will never go back to air !~~~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> My H220 is in route and arrives this week. Is it recommended to do an external leak test using the PSU jump start method and if so how long should I run it and how long can it be ran (min/max)? This will be a 1st build as well so I am going to be skeptically cautious after reading all the 300 plus posts here and other sites but am crossing fingers as the H220 does have some of the higher reviews. My intent is to break my new rig in on the stock cooler and then swap to the H220. Any and all advice is appreciated.


yes. yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
should i say more?

at least24 hours. although some like it much longer; it is all personal preference. put 1 fan on the rad to help keep heat down.
also to Os and you
the H220 CAN BE PUNCTURED if you dont pay attention when you are screwing in your screws !~~~~~~~~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Since no one answered me earlier, does anyone have any idea as to why I can't control my pump speed? I can change the fan speeds, but pump stays at 3200ish rpm. I have them all hooked through the splitter plugged into my cpu fan header.
> Motherboard is a MSI-Z77A-G41


are you sure your mobo works ok? not the first time i have seen a fan controller go bad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Think I am going with the H220. I have looked at some many AIO's and now the CM Eisberg 120L. I think the H220 looks the best from all of the research I have done. Does anyone know if they are coming out with a model that has white tubing? If not can anyone recommend some tubing that I can buy @ FrozenCPU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> A version with white tubing is coming, but not sure about ETA. I have white tubing on mine and I used XSPC tubing. works and looks great. You can also buy additional white tubing from Swiftech store.


+1


----------



## selk22

My h220 came in today and im rather impressed with the noise level with just the stock helix fans! I added some corsair SP120's to the bottom and have them in push/pull blowing air out of the case. My question is about my temps. Im on the x79 platform and for now running 3930k at stock on the sabertooth x79 my idle temps are around 30-38c varying between the cores, the ambient temps are not ideal as the room is smaller and as the PC heats so does the room. Under load im hitting around 50-60c running OCCT for around 45min, is this normal for the 3930k on the h220? Does anyone else also have a similar system setup and experience? I plan to take the CPU to a mild 4.2-4.4ghz and as someone who is newer to overclocking am wondering about the temperature headroom. Im very pleased with the h220 so far but do not know enough about my new x79 chipset to know if things are in the norm, thanks for the help!









To anyone who is also considering adding sp120's by corsair in push/pull... They are a loud radiator fan, I feel like I had better options at the same price range after more research. Just an afterthought!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> My h220 came in today and im rather impressed with the noise level with just the stock helix fans! I added some corsair SP120's to the bottom and have them in push/pull blowing air out of the case. My question is about my temps. Im on the x79 platform and for now running 3930k at stock on the sabertooth x79 my idle temps are around 30-38c varying between the cores, the ambient temps are not ideal as the room is smaller and as the PC heats so does the room. Under load im hitting around 50-60c running OCCT for around 45min, is this normal for the 3930k on the h220? Does anyone else also have a similar system setup and experience? I plan to take the CPU to a mild 4.2-4.4ghz and as someone who is newer to overclocking am wondering about the temperature headroom. Im very pleased with the h220 so far but do not know enough about my new x79 chipset to know if things are in the norm, thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anyone who is also considering adding sp120's by corsair in push/pull... They are a loud radiator fan, I feel like I had better options at the same price range after more research. Just an afterthought!


Having different fans in P/P is not good. As the flow rate is faster on the SP120 than Helix. Will cause the helix to spin faster than what is done.
Due to the low 13 FPI on H220, SP120 is more overkill than useful.
I did 4x Helix vs 4x NF-P12 PWM and the temps difference at max speed is 1c difference for the Noctua.

As for temps, for a 3930k at 50-60c is very good. 3930k is a beast when it comes to temps.
Ambient temps plays a big factor in your overall cooling.

Which case are you using and fan setup?


----------



## amorello

H220 Custom Loop

Hey, I am helping my friend build a custom H220 build and just wanted to be sure I am suggesting him all the right parts because I am kinda new to wc too.
He has two EVGA GTX 670 FTW.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8521/ex-rad-144/XSPC_RX120_120mm_Radiator.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=147 or the AX120 which is better? or any other higher performance single 120mm rad.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15719/ex-blc-1098/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_Hole_Edition_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_15520.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14226/ex-tub-1018/XSPC_High_Flex_PVC_Tubing_-_38_ID_58OD_-_White.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=150#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6242/ex-tub-149/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_14_Walled_Tubing_BP-CPF-CC3.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=145

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17559/ex-blc-1369/Heatkiller_GPU-X_Series_Dual_Link_Bridge_Block_10196.html#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19304/ex-liq-360/Swiftech_Blue_HydrX-PM2_Coolant_-_Premix_16_fl_oz.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=151

Is everything compatible are the fitting correct? how many of them does he need? How much tubing would he need? and will a res be necessary, if so which model and how big?
If there is any better part from a competitor or something feel free to share
The board is a Z77 Extreme4
Thank you very much, trusting you knowledge


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Having different fans in P/P is not good. As the flow rate is faster on the SP120 than Helix. Will cause the helix to spin faster than what is done.
> Due to the low 13 FPI on H220, SP120 is more overkill than useful.
> I did 4x Helix vs 4x NF-P12 PWM and the temps difference at max speed is 1c difference for the Noctua.
> 
> As for temps, for a 3930k at 50-60c is very good. 3930k is a beast when it comes to temps.
> Ambient temps plays a big factor in your overall cooling.
> 
> Which case are you using and fan setup?


Well im glad to hear this as I was really contemplating going with 2 more helix fans instead of these super loud corsairs. As for my case im using a haf 932 and here is basically the same airflow I have going on but with 1 gpu and one addition front intake fan above my optical drive to cool the vram


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats to everyone who is getting one. you will never go back to air !~~~
> yes. yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
> should i say more?
> 
> at least24 hours. although some like it much longer; it is all personal preference. put 1 fan on the rad to help keep heat down.
> also to Os and you
> the H220 CAN BE PUNCTURED if you dont pay attention when you are screwing in your screws !~~~~~~~~
> are you sure your mobo works ok? not the first time i have seen a fan controller go bad
> 
> +1


Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.


I don't know if it 's in the included literature or not (I presume it is though), but you have to use shorter screws on the backside of the rad if you add extra fans for p/porswitch to mount the fans on the back. The shroud is shorter, to fit in more cases,and the standard screws will not fit. I believe they are included but I could be wrong. Swiftech has well documented this on their website and they have very detailed and informative instructions in general included with their parts, I would bet that it's in there as well.

THAT BEING SAID, Swiftech DID tweak the design on the rad so that even if a screw in the screw holes punctures the rad, it won't leak and will function normally







.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I don't know if it 's in the included literature or not (I presume it is though), but you have to use shorter screws on the backside of the rad if you add extra fans for p/porswitch to mount the fans on the back. The shroud is shorter, to fit in more cases,and the standard screws will not fit. I believe they are included but I could be wrong. Swiftech has well documented this on their website and they have very detailed and informative instructions in general included with their parts, I would bet that it's in there as well.
> 
> THAT BEING SAID, Swiftech DID tweak the design on the rad so that even if a screw in the screw holes punctures the rad, it won't leak and will function normally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> H220 Custom Loop
> 
> Hey, I am helping my friend build a custom H220 build and just wanted to be sure I am suggesting him all the right parts because I am kinda new to wc too.
> He has two EVGA GTX 670 FTW.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8521/ex-rad-144/XSPC_RX120_120mm_Radiator.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=147 or the AX120 which is better? or any other higher performance single 120mm rad.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15719/ex-blc-1098/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_Hole_Edition_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_15520.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14226/ex-tub-1018/XSPC_High_Flex_PVC_Tubing_-_38_ID_58OD_-_White.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=150#blank
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6242/ex-tub-149/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_14_Walled_Tubing_BP-CPF-CC3.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=145
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17559/ex-blc-1369/Heatkiller_GPU-X_Series_Dual_Link_Bridge_Block_10196.html#blank
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19304/ex-liq-360/Swiftech_Blue_HydrX-PM2_Coolant_-_Premix_16_fl_oz.html?id=y8w3Dokr&mv_pc=151
> 
> 
> 
> Is everything compatible are the fitting correct? how many of them does he need? How much tubing would he need? and will a res be necessary, if so which model and how big?
> If there is any better part from a competitor or something feel free to share
> The board is a Z77 Extreme4
> Thank you very much, trusting you knowledge


10f should be enough for most builds. i would look at swiftech fittings as they tend to be cheaper and imo better. this says why.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.


another user did mention you wont puncture the chambers this may be true i dont know. but it is safe to presume that yes you have to worry about it with any rad, any screw
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
> My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.


fans have 1 side that is connected to the housing ( usually looks like a "x" with the circle in the middle, usually has a sicker on it ) 99% of all fans if you look at that ( like in the pic ) the fan will be blowing towards you. make sure that you mount it accordingly


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
> My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.


The fans are pre-mounted so that they will be intake fans when the rad is mounted horizontally with the res facing up. This is the ideal position.

Bryan sent me some great info on how to bleed the loop pre-installation; I will add it to the OP when I can get to a computer. Currently on my phone.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well im glad to hear this as I was really contemplating going with 2 more helix fans instead of these super loud corsairs. As for my case im using a haf 932 and here is basically the same airflow I have going on but with 1 gpu and one addition front intake fan above my optical drive to cool the vram


I've found that the single rear exhaust is all that's needed in the vast majority of cases. Air from front intake fans located at or below the GPU level is almost completely exhausted by the GPU, this is more of an issue for air coolers though.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The paint on the impeller signifies to us that it was balanced before being put into the pump and used in our H220 kit.


You know, One of my first thoughts was that it was some kind of balancing weight. As it was kind of thick and all. But then again, it was sticky, smeared on my thumb when I touched it, so I wiped it off. Maybe it was just sticky on the surface? Anyway, I was a bit worried, but then I forgot about it when I lifted the out the impeller and the magnet fell off. A bit surprised, and at the same time happy that the magnet didn't break, I picked it up and looked at it closer. Then I realized that the magnet was keyed to the axle and that I'd turned it so that I lost the orientation. 50/50 chance to put it back the right way! Gnnngh. Cursed aloud then, but it seem that either I was lucky, or that it didn't matter much. Now when I run the pump at max RPM I can balance a coin on it. So I think it is alright. Time will tell no doubt. I plan to test the H220 on my FX-8350, that CPU puts out a lot of heat when overclocked.
Quote:


> The tiny white particles are also most likely plasticizer, just like Dudewitbow mentioned. This plasticizer shouldn't pose any harm to the pump or the performance of this kit.


Thanks, good to know. May I ask if this plasticizer particles normally are sticky? For a lot of them that were in my system smeared when I tried to wipe them off. I was more successful with running water.

And I must say I like the AMD brackets in this kit, better than the ones that were included in my Apogee Drive 2 kit.


----------



## Hokies83

Here we go just water cooled my 3rd rig.... " ghetto rig" i5 3570k 7950s etc it is an x fire system but one card is off for rma.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I've found that the single rear exhaust is all that's needed in the vast majority of cases. Air from front intake fans located at or below the GPU level is almost completely exhausted by the GPU, this is more of an issue for air coolers though.


Well my problem is that I have to often clean my fans and case probably once a month. That being said I find it much easier to clean when I have the top exhausting as opposed to intake because the room the computer sits in for now is a dusty one, there is no other place to keep it for now. The difference in temperature is actually extremely minimal, once I expand the 220 with an additional 120mm Rad and a GPU water block I will most likely have the 220 mounted on top as intake to cool the Vrm and also will have moved the computer. At that point also I plan to get a window instead of 4 900rpm 120mm Fans pointed as intake. Im new to WC so im hoping that this will all be sufficient for some decent OC's and low noise


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well my problem is that I have to often clean my fans and case probably once a month. That being said I find it much easier to clean when I have the top exhausting as opposed to intake because the room the computer sits in for now is a dusty one, there is no other place to keep it for now.


Silverstone magnetic dust filters are a life saver. You may get lucky like I did as well, got three struck together when I only ordered one...magnets FTW.


----------



## Hokies83

Lol dust filters lol just get a data vac and never worry about dust ever again.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Lol dust filters lol just get a data vac and never worry about dust ever again.


Those are great if you're fully water cooled, but the GPU's in my house are still air cooled, and I have pets. The filters mean I only have to take the shrouds off once every 3 month to get the hair out, once I move to the Arc XL it won't matter as the case has filters over every fan mount but the rear exhaust.


----------



## Hokies83

Hmm i have 3 dogs and 4 systems... One system has like 24 intake fans lol.

The Data vac makes there no need for dust filters.. once every 2 weeks to a month open case turn it on... the air is super high CFM gets everything out... Like having an Air compressor on hand and ready to go at all times.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Hmm i have 3 dogs and 4 systems... One system has like 24 intake fans lol.
> 
> The Data vac makes there no need for dust filters.. once every 2 weeks to a month open case turn it on... the air is super high CFM gets everything out... Like having an Air compressor on hand and ready to go at all times.


How well does it get hair out of Nvidia reference coolers? As it stands, even if I use a compressor I can't get it all out without removing the shroud.

I find large clumps up against the fan facing edge of the heat sink on my 480.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> How well does it get hair out of Nvidia reference coolers? As it stands, even if I use a compressor I can't get it all out without removing the shroud.
> 
> I find large clumps up against the fan facing edge of the heat sink on my 480.


There is no way toAvoid having to go thru that with those types of coolers.

I try to avoid those.


----------



## El-Fuego

quick question, why newegg state H220 comes with only 1 year warranty not 3 ?

Edit : never mind they updated it, yesterday it was 1


----------



## Teufelshunde

H220 arrived, leak test started (spare PSU yanked out of old computer)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> H220 arrived, leak test started (spare PSU yanked out of old computer)


Grats


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> How well does it get hair out of Nvidia reference coolers? As it stands, even if I use a compressor I can't get it all out without removing the shroud.
> 
> I find large clumps up against the fan facing edge of the heat sink on my 480.


get rid of the dog and blow from the vent in the rear towards the blower









in all seriousness i never really had any issues with my old 5850 and the data vac. It's pretty dang strong.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> magnets FTW.


LOL


----------



## Tikiman

It's with great sadness that I have to report that my H220 is dying. I returned yesterday to find the pump grinding away. I'm just glad that I caught it before the pump failed completely. I guess it was a good thing that I picked up one of those Corsair H55 Quiets when they were on sale at Best Buy. Ironically the Corsair does pretty good cooling my 3570K @ 4.6 with the Cougar fans but it heat soaks really quickly though.

Add another one to the list of bad pumps.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The fans are pre-mounted so that they will be intake fans when the rad is mounted horizontally with the res facing up. This is the ideal position.
> 
> Bryan sent me some great info on how to bleed the loop pre-installation; I will add it to the OP when I can get to a computer. Currently on my phone.


You should Not need to bleed the loop pre-installation, unless you are expanding it. Once you bleed it you are not going to have maintenance free care for 3 years as a closed loop.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Hmm i have 3 dogs and 4 systems... One system has like 24 intake fans lol.
> 
> The Data vac makes there no need for dust filters.. once every 2 weeks to a month open case turn it on... the air is super high CFM gets everything out... Like having an Air compressor on hand and ready to go at all times.


Data vac is expensive. Doesn't it cost almost $300 ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> You should Not need to bleed the loop pre-installation, unless you are expanding it. Once you bleed it you are not going to have maintenance free care for 3 years as a closed loop.


You will still want to make sure you get all the air out of the pump and into the reservoir. You shouldn't have to open it to do this unless you have an unusually large air bubble. By bleeding I mean you will need to have the pump lower than the radiator when doing so, and move the pump around until most of the noise has subsided. I have the info in an email from Bryan and I'm adding it to the OP now. If you do have to top it off for whatever reason you can just use a quarter to unscrew the res cap and top it off when the pump is bled. Im a perfect situation, this wouldn't be necessary. But as with any mass production, some things are just near impossible to prevent, such as units that aren't. 100% filled. Asetek and Cool-it purposely leave a small air bubble in their units anyway, in all the variants they make for other companies. This isn't a defect and will happen over time anyway with evaporation.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> False, you will still want to make sure you get all the air out of the pump and into the reservoir. You shouldn't have to open it to do this unless you have an unusually large air bubble. By bleeding I mean you will need to have the pump lower than the radiator when doing so, and move the pump around until most of the noise has subsided. I have the info in an email from Bryan and I'm adding it to the OP now.


So It is Not false. Bleeding is when you remove fluid and air. Watch those loose semantics. By the way where is the OP link?
Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> So It is Not false. Bleeding is when you remove fluid and air. Watch those loose semantics. By the way where is the OP link?
> Thanks for the heads up.


I just now updated it. By bleeding I mean removing air from the pump... possibly have to top off the fluid with distilled water to remove the air.. How is that not bleeding? But wording not important anyway.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I just now updated it. By bleeding I mean removing air from the pump... possibly have to top off the fluid with distilled water to remove the air.. How is that not bleeding? But wording not important anyway.


Where is the OP link my helpful colleague? Sorry I see it is the first post in the forum. Ok now I have to ask you one more thing. I have the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z which you list as having a fit problem because of VRM heatsinks. How do I deal with this? Is it safe to filed down the heatsink a bit. Do I remove the heatsink to file it down to prevent damaging the VRM? Is it removable in your knowledge??? This is crucial. Thanks.


----------



## Julsmba

Hi H220 owners,
a little update on my rig, some cool sleeving from Arkangel (Portuguese Modder):



The H220 is doing good since February







, hope it keep going like this.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Should edit the OP, the asus 990fx crosshair V formula Z will be ok to use but the bracket does touch the VRM heatsink. Here's a picture:


So no need to file down heatsink on vrm? Good I will just put a spot fan to blow in that area.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Where is the OP link my helpful colleague? Sorry I see it is the first post in the forum. Ok now I have to ask you one more thing. I have the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z which you list as having a fit problem because of VRM heatsinks. How do I deal with this? Is it safe to filed down the heatsink a bit. Do I remove the heatsink to file it down to prevent damaging the VRM? Is it removable in your knowledge??? This is crucial. Thanks.


I posted a picture some pages back, it fits fine without any modification. When installing you just need to slide the mounting piece under the heatsink and it fits.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Data vac is expensive. Doesn't it cost almost $300 ?


50$ = 70$

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW


----------



## Watagump

I have a 215mph electric blower I use at work. When its dust bunny time, giddy-up.


----------



## AlDyer

My h220 arrived from 2nd RMA a while ago and it has been working wonderfully. Even ran the new 3DMark at 5.2 GHz no problem


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> It's with great sadness that I have to report that my H220 is dying. I returned yesterday to find the pump grinding away. I'm just glad that I caught it before the pump failed completely. I guess it was a good thing that I picked up one of those Corsair H55 Quiets when they were on sale at Best Buy. Ironically the Corsair does pretty good cooling my 3570K @ 4.6 with the Cougar fans but it heat soaks really quickly though.
> 
> Add another one to the list of bad pumps.


The noise you're hearing could be due to an air bubble trapped in the pump. It may sound like a grinding noise, but we've been able to determine that an air bubble can sound that way too when it's in just the right spot. Please try the procedures listed on the first page of this thread. Let me know if this works to quiet down your pump.


----------



## El-Fuego

hi again, another stupid question, I just noticed that in the first page, is the sabertooth 990fx 2.0 really incompatible ? as it wont fit there . or it fits but may hit the VR heatsinks? or the elbow must be facing a specific direction ?
really sad about this, was going to order mine today, good i noticed this









thanks


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> hi again, another stupid question, I just noticed that in the first page, is the sabertooth 990fx 2.0 really incompatible ? as it wont fit there . or it fits but may hit the VR heatsinks? or the elbow must be facing a specific direction ?
> really sad about this, was going to order mine today, good i noticed this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


I don't remember on the sabertooth but I think it is very similar to the formula z board vrm. Like I said earlier, it fits however the very tip corner of the mounting hardware closes to the video card will need to go under one nub on the heatsink when installing. Otherwise there is no modification needed.


----------



## BradleyW

After following this thread for a while, the H220 seems like the most problematic component you could possibly buy. I ignored this and got myself a unit. Looks like I should have just kept away from the H220. Nothing but problems and disappointment. For those with working H220's, I'm happy for you. I'm hoping the H320 is a lot better.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> After following this thread for a while, the H220 seems like the most problematic component you could possibly buy. I ignored this and got myself a unit. Looks like I should have just kept away from the H220. Nothing but problems and disappointment. For those with working H220's, I'm happy for you. I'm hoping the H320 is a lot better.


Oo it is the same unit with a little larger radiator... lol. I'm not sure about problematic as a major majority of the owners of the H220 have flawless operation configured both as CLC and as an AIO kit for a small custom loop. There have been some unfortunate people with bad units, as with every product, but this is a pretty nice pump with a good block and a decent radiator. Did you expect this unit to break the laws of thermodynamics or something?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Oo it is the same unit with a little larger reservoir... lol. I'm not sure about problematic as a major majority of the owners of the H220 have flawless operation configured both as CLC and as an AIO kit for a small custom loop. There have been some unfortunate people with bad units, as with every product, but this is a pretty nice pump with a good block and a decent radiator. Did you expect this unit to break the laws of thermodynamics or something?


320, wont the RAD also be bigger?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> 320, wont the RAD also be bigger?


I think that's what he meant by saying that it would have a larger reservoir, since the reservoir is integrated into the radiator.


----------



## skycake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> After following this thread for a while, the H220 seems like the most problematic component you could possibly buy. I ignored this and got myself a unit. Looks like I should have just kept away from the H220. Nothing but problems and disappointment. For those with working H220's, I'm happy for you. I'm hoping the H320 is a lot better.


You seem to be forgetting the first rule of product feedback on the internet: people who are having problems are a lot more likely to express their disappointment than people who are having no problems are to express their satisfaction.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> After following this thread for a while, the H220 seems like the most problematic component you could possibly buy. I ignored this and got myself a unit. Looks like I should have just kept away from the H220. Nothing but problems and disappointment. For those with working H220's, I'm happy for you. I'm hoping the H320 is a lot better.


I'm very sorry for the issues that you've had with this kit BradleyW. Could you please let me know what the current status of your issue is and what's being done to resolve it, since you're in the EU? Just PM me and let me know what's going on and I'll do what I can to help you out.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think that's what he meant by saying that it would have a larger reservoir, since the reservoir is integrated into the radiator.


Now I am confused, wouldn't a 320 also use bigger fans? Or is it just the H220 with JUST a bigger res?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> 320, wont the RAD also be bigger?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think that's what he meant by saying that it would have a larger reservoir, since the reservoir is integrated into the radiator.


Derp









Radiator*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Now I am confused, wouldn't a 320 also use bigger fans? Or is it just the H220 with JUST a bigger res?


The 320 in Swiftech naming is 3 (number of fans) with the last 2 places of the fan size (120mm) = 320.

The fan size is the same, the radiator will just have 1 more fan.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Now I am confused, wouldn't a 320 also use bigger fans? Or is it just the H220 with JUST a bigger res?


I think he means it will be a 320 rad that would use 3 x 120 fans.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Derp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator*
> The 320 in Swiftech naming is 3 (number of fans) with the last 2 places of the fan size (120mm) = 320.
> 
> The fan size is the same, the radiator will just have 1 more fan.


HA, I knew you derped.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> I think he means it will be a 320 rad that would use 3 x 120 fans.


But in water cooling that makes it a 360 RAD. Oh God, confusion running ramped.


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> But in water cooling that makes it a 360 RAD. Oh God, confusion running ramped.


Product Naming?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> But in water cooling that makes it a 360 RAD. Oh God, confusion running ramped.


Our naming scheme makes more sense because you don't have to think about what size the fans are. It's right in the name. A Swiftech 320 radiator means, just like Avonosac said, 3= the number of fans and the 20= 120mm fan. I hope this makes sense to those of you that aren't familiar with our simplistic naming scheme.


----------



## flaubert

From official *swiftech forums*

Quote:


> The only differences between H220 and H320 will be that the 320 will have a triple fan radiator and therefore will come with an extra fan. It will also have longer tubing so that the radiator will be able to fit into larger cases with room for a 320 radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaubert*
> 
> From official *swiftech forums*


Yeah, that was me.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yeah, that was me.


Any plans to be more innovating with Rad designs? Thicker 1080s etc?

On the kit rads putting a fill line in the res part?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Any plans to be more innovating with Rad designs? Thicker 1080s etc?
> 
> On the kit rads putting a fill line in the res part?


Think like a company having to package, and ship these to resellers.. how many of those prepackaged units do you think would sell?

Nothing is stopping you from putting together a loop using those radiators.. but that sounds incredibly niche to me.

As for the fill line, you're just a G1/4 fitting away from adding your own fill line to the radiator cap.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Think like a company having to package, and ship these to resellers.. how many of those prepackaged units do you think would sell?
> 
> Nothing is stopping you from putting together a loop using those radiators.. but that sounds incredibly niche to me.
> 
> As for the fill line, you're just a G1/4 fitting away from adding your own fill line to the radiator cap.


Very well put and thank your for answering that for me.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Think like a company having to package, and ship these to resellers.. how many of those prepackaged units do you think would sell?
> 
> Nothing is stopping you from putting together a loop using those radiators.. but that sounds incredibly niche to me.
> 
> As for the fill line, you're just a G1/4 fitting away from adding your own fill line to the radiator cap.


Hmm this company is my rad of choice...

Infront of them is the V2 Of the Rad that comes with the h220 kit and the other kits.


----------



## justanoldman

Hopefully he can chime in if he has time, but didn’t Martin show that thicker rads don’t really give you much better performance? I would think that is especially the case with people who want quiet fan profiles.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Hopefully he can chime in if he has time, but didn't Martin show that thicker rads don't really give you much better performance? I would think that is especially the case with people who want quiet fan profiles.


That he most definitely did, and thank you for mentioning that.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Hopefully he can chime in if he has time, but didn't Martin show that thicker rads don't really give you much better performance? I would think that is especially the case with people who want quiet fan profiles.


The Alphacool Monsta are the best perfoarming rads on the market right now with High pressure fans the UT60 and the 86mm monsta are at the top of the list.

It is only 4-5 c but when you look at cost afew c looks nice.

That system with the monstas runs about 7 C cooler then another system i have with thin rads in it.

There is a much bigger difference with more cooling Area then Rad thickness but thickness does help afew c.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The Alphacool Monsta are the best perfoarming rads on the market right now with *High pressure* fans the UT60 and the 86mm monsta are at the top of the list.


High pressure = high noise and for most people that defeats a major purpose of water cooling. I prefer not to have to listen to my rig as it sits next to me shredding the pixels of the latest shooter. That's just me though.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skycake*
> 
> You seem to be forgetting the first rule of product feedback on the internet: people who are having problems are a lot more likely to express their disappointment than people who are having no problems are to express their satisfaction.


I had this view prior to buying the unit, but I hoped I would be lucky enough to get a good unit from the latest flushed batch.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> High pressure = high noise and for most people that defeats a major purpose of water cooling. I prefer not to have to listen to my rig as it sits next to me shredding the pixels of the latest shooter. That's just me though.


The Monstas are low fpi and are dead silent...

There main design i do think it's goal was to be able to use low Cfm fans and get a lil better results then a thin rad with high cfm fans.

They also have much higher flow rates because of bigger chambers.


----------



## Philly27

So I said I was getting it Thursday but got it today...missed the UPS guy and had to sign









Have it running 24 starting now for a leak test( first venture so I want to be careful)









I must say it's pretty darn quiet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The Monstas are low fpi and are dead silent...
> 
> There main design i do think it's goal was to be able to use low Cfm fans and get a lil better results then a thin rad with high cfm fans.


Look, I understand what you're saying, it's just that the additional cost for just a couple of degrees really can't be justified for most people. The other issue is that as Martin has stated and shown through his own testing, these thicker radiators really don't outperform the thinner radiators with lower speed fans. They just don't.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Look, I understand what you're saying, it's just that the additional cost for just a couple of degrees really can't be justified for most people. The other issue is that as Martin has stated and shown through his own testing, these thicker radiators really don't outperform the thinner radiators with lower speed fans. They just don't.




http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/


Yeah, in terms of cost versus performance, just like I stated.


----------



## Hokies83

Yeah they cost more but i sure do like them lol.

Swiftech makes a good rad id just like to see more options is all


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah they cost more but i sure do like them lol.
> 
> Swiftech makes a good rad id just like to see more options is all


In some cases they cost nearly twice as much as our MCR320 XP, but offer no more than maybe a 3 to 5% increase in performance. I don't know about you, but I'll feel a bit ripped off. I'll be honest with you though. I was a big fan of the thicker radiators before I started working here. Once I saw that the performance wasn't really there, I felt kind of betrayed by all of the reviews that said they were so much better. I'm glad that Martin did his testing to set the record straight.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I posted a picture some pages back, it fits fine without any modification. When installing you just need to slide the mounting piece under the heatsink and it fits.


That is great news.Have they removed the board from the incompatibility list???


----------



## Avonosac

Hokies, lets just say you like larger and more radiators than most of the market Swiftech is targeting with the H220. The pump in this loop would not have the flow to be able to handle 3 of your monsters, a chipset, memory, and a couple GPU blocks. The loops you seem to be into are much more complex than what this product is aimed for. If the loop you imagine would generally use multiple MCP35 pumps in order to keep flow high enough while noise is low, you aren't likely to use the H220 for your pump.

I'm all for choice, and I think this product did a great job of filling a niche in the market which most companies were ignoring. Most pumps which were overkill for simple water loops, but they still charge you the premium cost. The H220 essentially gives you the AD2 minus the large premium for the overpowered pump in a small loop scenario. Lets not advise swiftech to venture out of this niche, when the success of this product is that very niche market they targetted.


----------



## marc0053

Just received my unit








Going to install it tomorrow


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Just received my unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to install it tomorrow












Real men build computers on fluffy comforters!


----------



## Martinm210

Regarding slim vs thick rads.

What I noticed is that thicker rads are a little easier to tune for all around performance where slim thickness rads tend to tune for either slow or high speed performance but with some loss in the opposite area. Slim is definitely your best bet for cost/benefit, but a lot of people buy for looks as much as performance and I must agree that a thicker rad does look better even though it may not perform any better:










ALSO

Thicker rads tend to have about half as much restriction, you have double the rows of tubes typically, so it's like running two slim rads in parallel.









The H220 rad is also a bit more restrictive than your typical MCR series which I suspect is due to the swivel elbows, but I'm not completely sure. It is about 6-7X more restrictive than the normal MCR320:









So besides thermal performance, there are some other things to think about..
Hope this helps...
Martin


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Regarding slim vs thick rads.
> 
> What I noticed is that thicker rads are a little easier to tune for all around performance where slim thickness rads tend to tune for either slow or high speed performance but with some loss in the opposite area. Slim is definitely your best bet for cost/benefit, but a lot of people buy for looks as much as performance and I must agree that a thicker rad does look better even though it may not perform any better:
> 
> ALSO
> 
> Thicker rads tend to have about half as much restriction, you have double the rows of tubes typically, so it's like running two slim rads in parallel.
> 
> The H220 rad is also a bit more restrictive than your typical MCR series which I suspect is due to the swivel elbows, but I'm not completely sure. It is about 6-7X more restrictive than the normal MCR320:
> 
> So besides thermal performance, there are some other things to think about..
> Hope this helps...
> Martin


Thanks for your input into this discussion Martin. It's much appreciated as always.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Could you note the fans used for each of those 10C runs, Martin? I remember you saying you couldn't get any donations as far as 38mm fans go, which REALLY would skew the results of the thicker stuff (especially the Black Ice GTX) so it'd be great to know what you're using.


----------



## Hokies83

Yeah i seen a review somewhere the reviewer used High static pressure 38mm fans on the thick rads in P/P and they ran away with the show.

Martin does show the Thick rads performing at the top of every Fan RPM range.

But that review with the 38mm fans in p/p really had them running away from the pack with the Black ice in 2nd place.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Which corsair fans should I get for 800d +H220

I was thinking sp120 high performance ed however I have seen pwm edition and quiet edition. So I'm not sure


----------



## Dudewitbow

if you plan on plugging it into the swiftech splitter, then get the pwm version.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Thanks


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> After following this thread for a while, the H220 seems like the most problematic component you could possibly buy. I ignored this and got myself a unit. Looks like I should have just kept away from the H220. Nothing but problems and disappointment. For those with working H220's, I'm happy for you. I'm hoping the H320 is a lot better.


I think they mostly had a bad first production run. After I fixed my problems, I looked around a bit, and I my conclusion was that there was a problematic first run, sure that's not good, but it happens. I really recommend a visit to Swiftech's official forum if you have a problem and want help. I have had very good response there, as I very much like how active they are on various forums around the net.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skycake*
> 
> You seem to be forgetting the first rule of product feedback on the internet: people who are having problems are a lot more likely to express their disappointment than people who are having no problems are to express their satisfaction.


Heh, right you are sir








I'm actually not disappointed though. I think Swiftech made a well designed product. Mine was damaged due to what seems to be temporary production problems, but I managed to fix it thanks to the good design. I've seen enough people around the net that got a flawless product to be pretty sure it was the first batch that had most of the problems. As swiftech reps really care about their customers, I do think they already have solved the problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In some cases they cost nearly twice as much as our MCR320 XP, but offer no more than maybe a 3 to 5% increase in performance. I don't know about you, but I'll feel a bit ripped off. I'll be honest with you though. I was a big fan of the thicker radiators before I started working here. Once I saw that the performance wasn't really there, I felt kind of betrayed by all of the reviews that said they were so much better. I'm glad that Martin did his testing to set the record straight.


I'm glad too. I have thin rads from this and that manufacturer, and also thick rads from this and that company. There isn't a world of a difference, the thick rads really need an expensive pump with high flow rates to perform, and/or loud fans. I sure think the thick Alphacool rads look nice, but they're not cheap. And I did kinda feel ripped off when I compared a very expensive, cool looking, thick rad to a much cheaper thinner one. Like I bought stuff based on looks, something tha kinda makes me feel stupid.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Could you note the fans used for each of those 10C runs, Martin? I remember you saying you couldn't get any donations as far as 38mm fans go, which REALLY would skew the results of the thicker stuff (especially the Black Ice GTX) so it'd be great to know what you're using.


Titan Kukuri 800-2200rpm fans. Similar to the Swiftech Helix except higher top speed which has good static pressure but the PQ curve is a little flat, still a good RPM scale for most 25mm fans.

GTs or 38mm fans might read 1800 and produce similar results as the Titan 2200rpm result etc.

Of coarse there are other factors such as the fan PQ shape that might tailor to a rad restriction level also. I chose the Titan specifically because it had a good rpm range that covered the most common speeds with an average to better pressure capability.

I bought Delta AFB1212HE Rev3s as well, but cut out the second test phase after 17 radiators worth of work. Got boring pretty fast..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Titan Kukuri 800-2200rpm fans. Similar to the Swiftech Helix except higher top speed which has good static pressure but the PQ curve is a little flat, still a good RPM scale for most 25mm fans.
> 
> GTs or 38mm fans might read 1800 and produce similar results as the Titan 2200rpm result etc.
> 
> Of coarse there are other factors such as the fan PQ shape that might tailor to a rad restriction level also. I chose the Titan specifically because it had a good rpm range that covered the most common speeds with an average to better pressure capability.
> 
> I bought Delta AFB1212HE Rev3s as well, but cut out the second test phase after 17 radiators worth of work. Got boring pretty fast..


I can just imagine how boring it must have been. We all really appreciate the effort and work that you put into your testing and reviews though.


----------



## Fleat

I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.

Here is a video of what is going on...





This is quite disappointing


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.
> 
> Here is a video of what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is quite disappointing


Woah that sound makes me want to hit with a base ball bat.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Woah that sound makes me want to hit with a base ball bat.


Oddly enough, I was just at the gun range earlier today sending some rounds down the lane. Part of me wanted to use this as target practice. Just kidding of course... sort of...


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our naming scheme makes more sense because you don't have to think about what size the fans are. It's right in the name. A Swiftech 320 radiator means, just like Avonosac said, 3= the number of fans and the 20= 120mm fan. I hope this makes sense to those of you that aren't familiar with our simplistic naming scheme.


So can I assume a 200mm model would be the H100?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.
> 
> Here is a video of what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is quite disappointing


You must be really picky about noise, I turned my volume down to ZERO and couldn't hear the pump in your video.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So can I assume a 200mm model would be the H100?


Also would it start with a C?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.
> 
> Here is a video of what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is quite disappointing


I had an air bubble that made a similar sound, just not quite as loud. Have you tried moving the pump around while it's running?


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.
> 
> Here is a video of what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is quite disappointing


i just got mines alittle over a week ago. its been running since then. total of 219hours so far. i hope mines dont go bad.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I had an air bubble that made a similar sound, just not quite as loud. Have you tried moving the pump around while it's running?


I spent around twenty minutes trying all the tricks mentioned in this thread for removing air bubbles, and it didn't make a difference. If I have time today I am going to try again. The video really doesn't do the noise justice though as this thing is LOUD. This happened while I was gone and my wife thought my computer was having a melt down. When I told her to just leave it she actually stuck a couple of towels under the door to try and lower the noise level and she was three rooms over!


----------



## drnilly007

frozencpu.com has free fathers day shipping this weekend for orders over $50, so you can snag a H220 for $139.99 shipped!


----------



## bond32

Just got my RMA pump installed and bled the air out. Took me all of about 5 minutes to get it fully working as it should. No more pump noise. I'm happy!

Edit: Final picture


----------



## ez12a

grats man, looks great. My 2nd pump is still working too







:thumb:


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> I returned from my business trip a few days ago, and my replacement H220 had arrived. It ran amazingly well and extremely quietly for the past three days at 100%, and now it is making a terrible noise. Luckily, I had not actually installed it as I was slightly leery after the first H220 had problems.
> 
> Here is a video of what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is quite disappointing


I totally understand.

Since it was a replacement, I suspect that our tech might have missed something during rebuild...









I PM'd you and will take immediate action Monday.

G-


----------



## MadGoat

Went ahead and placed my order for a decent res setup for mah rig. Since my rad is bottom mounted and I'd like to be able to get and keep all the air out of the loop!


----------



## geogga

Is it common to get a faulty pump...? this makes me annoyed to buy this as i will have to wait even more days after it comes to get the second one. Hopefully ill get a fine one.


----------



## Ragsters

Where are the H320s?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Is it common to get a faulty pump...? this makes me annoyed to buy this as i will have to wait even more days after it comes to get the second one. Hopefully ill get a fine one.


A couple of us have received some noisy ones


----------



## Hokies83

These Noisey Units....

Put the pump lower and hold the rad up in the air with a fitting off.

Could the cause be a pump not with air in it?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> These Noisey Units....
> 
> Put the pump lower and hold the rad up in the air with a fitting off.
> 
> Could the cause be a pump not with air in it?


The procedure to workout an air bubble is Not to loosen a fitting. Maybe for large air bubbles. If I am not expanding my kit no way am I playing with those fittings. After swaying it back and forth with the pump lower than the rad the bubble is supposed to be released in thereservoir. If that does not work you RMA it.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The procedure to workout an air bubble is Not to loosen a fitting. Maybe for large air bubbles. If I am not expanding my kit no way am I playing with those fittings. After swaying it back and forth with the pump lower than the rad the bubble is supposed to be released in thereservoir. If that does not work you RMA it.


I donno but my main loop has more air bubbles in it then id think 1000 of these units could have it after u can get them.

And to get Air bubbles out i take the fitting off the highest point and shake it...

Cause if u dont the Air bubble will just recycle thru the loop .

I keep it almost full till there all out... Takes about 3 days or so to get the larger ones out.. But i was still get air bubbles a month after running it.. loop is massive.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The procedure to workout an air bubble is Not to loosen a fitting. Maybe for large air bubbles. If I am not expanding my kit no way am I playing with those fittings. After swaying it back and forth with the pump lower than the rad the bubble is supposed to be released in thereservoir. If that does not work you RMA it.


I would agree with you, in that anyone who is not going to expand it should not have to open up anything. However, for those that might want to try a few things before going through the RMA process it is not a bad idea to try.

You just have to unscrew the fill port on the rad while the rad is above the pump. Then run the unit (hopefully you are doing this outside the rig) and move the pump around a little to try to work out any air bubbles. Then you can top off the res with distilled if necessary. Bryan's video is very helpful in showing some of these procedures.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The procedure to workout an air bubble is Not to loosen a fitting. Maybe for large air bubbles. If I am not expanding my kit no way am I playing with those fittings. After swaying it back and forth with the pump lower than the rad the bubble is supposed to be released in thereservoir. If that does not work you RMA it.


No need to undo the fittings, just possibly the fillcap. It's not some mystical creature. Just a threaded cap with an O ring. Somebody took it off at some point and put it back on, so you're not breaking some magical air-tight seal. It's just a cap. If there's a larger air bubble, just take it off with a flathead or a quarter and top it off with distilled water, then tighten it back on. Literally takes like 30 seconds.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> No need to undo the fittings, just possibly the fillcap. It's not some mystical creature. Just a threaded cap with an O ring. Somebody took it off at some point and put it back on, so you're not breaking some magical air-tight seal. It's just a cap. If there's a larger air bubble, just take it off with a flathead or a quarter and top it off with distilled water, then tighten it back on. Literally takes like 30 seconds.


That made me laugh!


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I totally understand.
> 
> Since it was a replacement, I suspect that our tech might have missed something during rebuild...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I PM'd you and will take immediate action Monday.
> 
> G-


It seems that flushing the system a couple of times has reduced the noise somewhat. I can only hear the pump from one room away instead of across the house. It is still basically making the same awful "oil rig mining" noise that is was, just at a lower volume. Maybe the third time is the charm?


----------



## Face2Face

Seeing these issues is now making me Leary of buying this kit. Not sure what to do a this point. The h220 seems to be top dog, just a lot rma's it seems.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Seeing these issues is now making me Leary of buying this kit. Not sure what to do a this point. The h220 seems to be top dog, just a lot rma's it seems.


Are you familiar with the phrase, the noisy wheel gets the grease? There are thousands of these kits sold, and maybe 50 or so people in the last few months that have posted their issues in this thread. While there are a few people that have had issues with more than one kit, which is certainly odd amd unfortunate in itself, the vast, vast majority of people have had no issues whatsoever. And the ones that have had issues thusfar have been treated with the utmost care and timely manner for service and/or RMAs. I myself have one of the very first units and have had no issues whatsoever.

On a side note, this is to all the people who have posted continuous doubt and worry about the H220 before they even have it- relax. I've seen so many people in this thread post their worry and uncertainty, then buy the unit expecting a problem. There is no need for this. It doesn't help and if you believe the way I do, you believe your words breath life and death, so there's no need to make a mountain out of a mole hill and/or speak destruction of something before you get it. If the biggest worry we have in life is if our watercooler on our computer is going to fail or not, we have it pretty good anyway.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Seeing these issues is now making me Leary of buying this kit. Not sure what to do a this point. The h220 seems to be top dog, just a lot rma's it seems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you familiar with the phrase, the noisy wheel gets the grease? There are thousands of these kits sold, and maybe 50 or so people in the last few months that have posted their issues in this thread. While there are a few people that have had issues with more than one kit, which is certainly odd amd unfortunate in itself, the vast, vast majority of people have had no issues whatsoever. And the ones that have had issues thusfar have been treated with the utmost care and timely manner for service and/or RMAs. I myself have one of the very first units and have had no issues whatsoever.
> 
> On a side note, this is to all the people who have posted continuous doubt and worry about the H220 before they even have it- relax. I've seen so many people in this thread post their worry and uncertainty, then buy the unit expecting a problem. There is no need for this. It doesn't help and if you believe the way I do, you believe your words breath life and death, so there's no need to make a mountain out of a mole hill and/or speak destruction of something before you get it. If the biggest worry we have in life is if our watercooler on our computer is going to fail or not, we have it pretty good anyway.


this mostly.

however i would like to add a few things.

few people will ever review a product that meets there needs. a few will if it exceeds it but still not a lot. everyone will whine about it when it fails however.

i could say more... but i think that sums it up


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> No need to undo the fittings, just possibly the fillcap. It's not some mystical creature. Just a threaded cap with an O ring. Somebody took it off at some point and put it back on, so you're not breaking some magical air-tight seal. It's just a cap. If there's a larger air bubble, just take it off with a flathead or a quarter and top it off with distilled water, then tighten it back on. Literally takes like 30 seconds.


That is doable and useful.Loosening fittings can lead to mishap like a leak. It would be nice if Swiftech QC gets better and those radiators and pumps leave the factory fully flushed of significant debris. Thanks for clarifying the previous suggestion, which I knew not to be Swiftech's recommendation. Is the distilled water as good a coolant as what Swiftech puts in the loop?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> That is doable and useful.Loosening fittings can lead to mishap like a leak. It would be nice if Swiftech QC gets better and those radiators and pumps leave the factory fully flushed of significant debris. Thanks for clarifying the previous suggestion, which I knew not to be Swiftech's recommendation. Is the distilled water as good a coolant as what Swiftech puts in the loop?


The Swiftech Coolant is a pre-mixed solution in which distilled water is the main ingredient, so the little bit of distilled added to the loop with a top-off won't be a significant change to percentages in the levels.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The Swiftech Coolant is a pre-mixed solution in which distilled water is the main ingredient, so the little bit of distilled added to the loop with a top-off won't be a significant change to percentages in the levels.


OK. I fully understand the procedure. So I will do it prior to installation in the case to avoid the same issues.. I rectify my last post. I misstated debris when it is obviously an issue with proper bleeding of the radiator prior to ship.


----------



## Phelan

No prob. The bleeding is something they are working on, but sometimes a little air bubble still happens. Even if it were in the reservoir, being moved around in the shipping process will move it around and could land it in the pump.


----------



## Hokies83

If i had one of these id drain it and put distilled in it anyways with a lil PT Nuke And a Silver bullet fitting.

If u do that and know u have got the air bubbles out then u kno something is wrong with the Unit.


----------



## NeoDestiny

I RMA'd my first h220 because the pump was doing the start/stop thing.

My second pump is completely dead, now, I think. I've tried connecting the pump directly to different slots on the motherboard but nothing is getting the pump to turn on. It's reporting nothing back to the motherboard (in terms of RPM) and the pump itself is not making any noise (indication that it's turned on). I've had this connected to my system for two days. Last night it made some really strange watery noises, but I (maybe foolishly) assumed that it was just because it was new and it was getting rid of a bubble (?) or something.

Kind of bummed out, as this was my second one and I've had it connected for only two days before this happened. I've tried connecting other fans into the same motherboard slots and those power on without failure. No matter what I connect the h220 to, though, the pump will not start.


----------



## NeoDestiny

Wait what the ****, it just randomly turned back on. I have no idea what's going on, but it's making very weird, watery noises at the moment.

I was sitting here doing nothing. The temps weren't rising or anything, just sitting at a steady 60C (turned off OC and everything) and then just randomly kicked back on. I've double/triple checked all of my mobo settings to make sure that nothing was turned off.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> I RMA'd my first h220 because the pump was doing the start/stop thing.
> 
> My second pump is completely dead, now, I think. I've tried connecting the pump directly to different slots on the motherboard but nothing is getting the pump to turn on. It's reporting nothing back to the motherboard (in terms of RPM) and the pump itself is not making any noise (indication that it's turned on). I've had this connected to my system for two days. Last night it made some really strange watery noises, but I (maybe foolishly) assumed that it was just because it was new and it was getting rid of a bubble (?) or something.
> 
> Kind of bummed out, as this was my second one and I've had it connected for only two days before this happened. I've tried connecting other fans into the same motherboard slots and those power on without failure. No matter what I connect the h220 to, though, the pump will not start.


Are you using the splitter? On a side note, are you opposed to flushing and refilling the loop?


----------



## NeoDestiny

Originally I was using the splitter, yeah. Then I tried to plug it into different slots (CPU_1/CPU_2) to get it to work with no avail. Except now, as I was sitting here browsing the web with it plugged into CPU_1, it just completely randomly turned back on again and seems to be functioning normally.

I guess I could try flushing it. I've never done it before, though.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Wait what the ****, it just randomly turned back on. I have no idea what's going on, but it's making very weird, watery noises at the moment.
> 
> I was sitting here doing nothing. The temps weren't rising or anything, just sitting at a steady 60C (turned off OC and everything) and then just randomly kicked back on. I've double/triple checked all of my mobo settings to make sure that nothing was turned off.


Steady 60 C seems like the pump wasn't on at all. Sounds like it could be a loose connection within the housing itself. You tried the splitter with just connecting the pump and molex, nothing else? Also if you remove it to flush it, take one intake tube and try to prime the pump and just try to get the pump working with no reservoir.


----------



## NeoDestiny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Steady 60 C seems like the pump wasn't on at all. Sounds like it could be a loose connection within the housing itself. You tried the splitter with just connecting the pump and molex, nothing else? Also if you remove it to flush it, take one intake tube and try to prime the pump and just try to get the pump working with no reservoir.


It was a steady 60C because I was booted into the OS with the CPU clocked super low and running absolutely no programs. It was 60C "idle" at ramped down clock speeds. It was showing 90-91C in the BIOS.

There are no loose connections. I tried the splitter connecting only the pump and molex. Everything else on the splitter (the two helix fans) work fine).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Originally I was using the splitter, yeah. Then I tried to plug it into different slots (CPU_1/CPU_2) to get it to work with no avail. Except now, as I was sitting here browsing the web with it plugged into CPU_1, it just completely randomly turned back on again and seems to be functioning normally.
> 
> I guess I could try flushing it. I've never done it before, though.


It really is not hard at all. There's a video in the OP for expansion; it's the same begining and ending procedure as that but without adding a gpu to the loop. There is an extra step in the middle though, which people have different methods. I personally flush my systems with the kitchen faucet, opening the loop at one connection, and one by one holding the tubing and cupping it ti the faucet as tightly as I can trying to to get water all over the place, and flush it in both directions several times that way :thumbs:


----------



## Face2Face

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you familiar with the phrase, the noisy wheel gets the grease? There are thousands of these kits sold, and maybe 50 or so people in the last few months that have posted their issues in this thread. While there are a few people that have had issues with more than one kit, which is certainly odd amd unfortunate in itself, the vast, vast majority of people have had no issues whatsoever. And the ones that have had issues thusfar have been treated with the utmost care and timely manner for service and/or RMAs. I myself have one of the very first units and have had no issues whatsoever.
> 
> On a side note, this is to all the people who have posted continuous doubt and worry about the H220 before they even have it- relax. I've seen so many people in this thread post their worry and uncertainty, then buy the unit expecting a problem. There is no need for this. It doesn't help and if you believe the way I do, you believe your words breath life and death, so there's no need to make a mountain out of a mole hill and/or speak destruction of something before you get it. If the biggest worry we have in life is if our watercooler on our computer is going to fail or not, we have it pretty good anyway.


You bring up some valid points. I needed someone slap me in the face







I have been keeping track of this thread for awhile and it just seems that with all of the "Owners" threads I have been looking at, this seems to be one where people share defective unit stories the most. Not sure if this is because expectations are so high or what? I know the first batch of H220's were having some issues and were never in-stock. I am just hoping these newer ones have most of the kinks worked out. I have been looking at the CM Eisberg 240L as well - Trying to compare the two, but not seeing any comparisons as of yet.


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The noise you're hearing could be due to an air bubble trapped in the pump. It may sound like a grinding noise, but we've been able to determine that an air bubble can sound that way too when it's in just the right spot. Please try the procedures listed on the first page of this thread. Let me know if this works to quiet down your pump.


I'll give it another shot when I have time Bryan. To many house projects right now.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I personally flush my systems with the kitchen faucet, opening the loop at one connection, and one by one holding the tubing and cupping it ti the faucet as tightly as I can trying to to get water all over the place, and flush it in both directions several times that way :thumbs:


If you have a sink with a pull out handle or the little sprayer on the side, the supply line should be almost identical in diameter to the fill hole on the radiator.


----------



## Lil-Diabo

It's only being held in with 4 screws as I couldn't use proper 120mm mounts cos of the rear fan, during the weekend I'm gonna have to drill a few more holes at the top.
Definitely going to have to trim the tubes as they a bit too long, especially considering I'm planning to use some shrouds.

Still very happy with it. Got some sleeving and some extensions on the way to tidy things up.


----------



## El-Fuego

Just went ahead and got myself a corsair h110, not too happy about it but with all the mixed issues i heard about and mixed answered i got about h220 compatibility with sabertooth motherboards, i just decided to get a AIO unit and go full custom later since I need something better NOW (still using the stock amd cooler).


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Just went ahead and got myself a corsair h110, not too happy about it but with all the mixed issues i heard about and mixed answered i got about h220 compatibility with sabertooth motherboards, i just decided to get a AIO unit and go full custom later since I need something better NOW (still using the stock amd cooler).


What compatibility issues are you referring too? Just installed my H220 on a new Z87 Sabertooth/I7 4770K this morning. Leak tested off and on through out the weekend. Only issue I really had was the splitter molex pins pushed completely out the back when trying to attach to the PSU molex







already contacted tech support) I just ended up connecting to the MB as normal, pump to cpu header, fan 1 to opt cpu header, fan 2 to case fan header 3 at top left. Sabertooth Z87 is pwm so all seem's to be running fine atm. Specific details regarding actual speeds sent to tech support as well. Temps 29-32 at idle.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Just went ahead and got myself a corsair h110, not too happy about it but with all the mixed issues i heard about and mixed answered i got about h220 compatibility with sabertooth motherboards, i just decided to get a AIO unit and go full custom later since I need something better NOW (still using the stock amd cooler).


Too bad. I have a Z77 Sabertooth, fits without issues. only is the first ram slots, kinda blocks it, by like 1-2mm
990FX Sabertooth shouldn't have an issue with mounting. Might block ram slot, that is all.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Had similar issue w/ 1st Dimm, removed it to get pump in and was a little hard to get back in but seems ok.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This is the Swiftech H220 Owners' Club!
> Known Motherboard incompatibility issues
> Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z AMD 990FX Motherboard - Interference with VR Heatsinks
> ASRock Z77E-ITX LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard - Interference with RAM & VGA slots
> ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Dual LGA 2011 Intel C602 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 SSI EEB Intel Motherboard - Interference with Ram slots closest to CPU sockets - Can only use outer RAM slots.


This should be removed from the first page then,

witeboy07 told me about the ram slots issue, I'm planning on using all 4 slots of my MB, and frankly I just want my cpu to be cooler, i don't think i'll expand the loop anytime sooner.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This is the Swiftech H220 Owners' Club!
> Known Motherboard incompatibility issues
> Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z AMD 990FX Motherboard - Interference with VR Heatsinks
> ASRock Z77E-ITX LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard - Interference with RAM & VGA slots
> ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Dual LGA 2011 Intel C602 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 SSI EEB Intel Motherboard - Interference with Ram slots closest to CPU sockets - Can only use outer RAM slots.
> 
> 
> 
> This should be removed from the first page then,
> 
> witeboy07 told me about the ram slots issue, I'm planning on using all 4 slots of my MB, and frankly I just want my cpu to be cooler, i don't think i'll expand the loop anytime sooner.
Click to expand...

Those are different boards from what you mentioned. You asked for Sabertooth.
As for ram slots, most will have that issue. You can use only 2 slots, just larger ram size. 2x8GB or 2x16gb, or low profile ram should work.
The way H220 is designed makes it wider.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> What compatibility issues are you referring too? Just installed my H220 on a new Z87 Sabertooth/I7 4770K this morning. Leak tested off and on through out the weekend. Only issue I really had was the splitter molex pins pushed completely out the back when trying to attach to the PSU molex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> already contacted tech support) I just ended up connecting to the MB as normal, pump to cpu header, fan 1 to opt cpu header, fan 2 to case fan header 3 at top left. Sabertooth Z87 is pwm so all seem's to be running fine atm. Specific details regarding actual speeds sent to tech support as well. Temps 29-32 at idle.


Getting you taken care of and we'll mail it out to you tomorrow morning.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Getting you taken care of and we'll mail it out to you tomorrow morning.


Thank you







Fast, courteous response. Just what us customer's want. I haven't been nearly as lucky with other computer oriented retailers.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast, courteous response. Just what us customer's want. I haven't been nearly as lucky with other computer oriented retailers.


Buy Galaxy gpus And Gigabyte Mbs if u want that lvl of CS.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> This should be removed from the first page then,
> 
> witeboy07 told me about the ram slots issue, I'm planning on using all 4 slots of my MB, and frankly I just want my cpu to be cooler, i don't think i'll expand the loop anytime sooner.


As someone else mentioned, the Sabertooth isn't on the incompatibility list. And you can mount the cooler rotated 90* and the RAM slots will be clear..


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Those are different boards from what you mentioned. You asked for Sabertooth.
> As for ram slots, most will have that issue. You can use only 2 slots, just larger ram size. 2x8GB or 2x16gb, or low profile ram should work.
> The way H220 is designed makes it wider.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Those are different boards from what you mentioned. You asked for Sabertooth.
> As for ram slots, most will have that issue. You can use only 2 slots, just larger ram size. 2x8GB or 2x16gb, or low profile ram should work.
> The way H220 is designed makes it wider.


The incompatibility list should REMOVE Asus Crosshair V Formula Z. We already have one H220 owner, Bond32, with that board who successfully installed it without a hack saw. or file.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Buy Galaxy gpus And Gigabyte Mbs if u want that lvl of CS.


I used to swear by BFG before they went under, my current card is an EVGA and I've been underwhelmed by their support. Was debating between Gigabyte and Galaxy for a GTX 770. Those white PCB cards they showed off recently are slick looking, not for my build, but it lets you know they're listening to what the enthusiast crowd is looking for.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The incompatibility list should REMOVE Asus Crosshair V Formula Z. We already have one H220 owner, Bond32, with that board who successfully installed it without a hack saw. or file.


Yep, not a thing needed modification. I mean it doesn't just bolt right in as most all other applications are but if you slip the corner under one lip on the VRM heatsink it will fit.


----------



## kikibgd

is there a list of motherboards that support h220 without problems with spacing???
i am interested in z87 chipset


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> is there a list of motherboards that support h220 without problems with spacing???
> i am interested in z87 chipset


There is not, Z87 is new.
This shouldnt be that big of an issue.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I used to swear by BFG before they went under, my current card is an EVGA and I've been underwhelmed by their support. Was debating between Gigabyte and Galaxy for a GTX 770. Those white PCB cards they showed off recently are slick looking, not for my build, but it lets you know they're listening to what the enthusiast crowd is looking for.


Im friends with the galaxy product manager he goes above the call of duty for ppl.

Also galaxy's cards are made very well better then most you will find nothing cheap on there pcbs..

I have been begging them to become an amd board partner but no go .... I'd love to be able to buy a galaxy amd Gpu....

As far as this h220 fitting on a board ..... It should fit on all of them if u have mounting hardware for that socket... Nothing should be close enough to the socket to restrict access for the block... If that was the case the stock intell heat sink wouldent fit same with amd....

And if u do not have the mounting hardware something can always be figured out with 4 screws washers and some nuts it is not rocket science.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> is there a list of motherboards that support h220 without problems with spacing???
> i am interested in z87 chipset


Well, at least with Gigabyte boards the VRM sinks are wider than they were on the Z77 boards and noticeably reduces clearance around the socket, the clearance on the RAM side is the same. On the z87 board there's no space at all between the sink and the cooler mounting holes.

The images below are of the Z77X-UD5H and the Z87X-UD5H.

 

Edit:

Looked at my build log, the H220 doesn't look like it would fit on the Z87x-UD5h because of these wider sinks.


----------



## drnilly007

Okay a question on fans for expanding the H220 (should be here in a few days).

If using the pwm splitter and the stock fans if I hook up another rad with lets say 800 rpm fans and the pump is set to 50% will the 800 rpm fans run at 400rpm/50% or since the stock fans are 1850 rpm, and 50% being 925rpm, cause the 800 rpm fan to run at max?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Okay a question on fans for expanding the H220 (should be here in a few days).
> 
> If using the pwm splitter and the stock fans if I hook up another rad with lets say 800 rpm fans and the pump is set to 50% will the 800 rpm fans run at 400rpm/50% or since the stock fans are 1850 rpm, and 50% being 925rpm, cause the 800 rpm fan to run at max?


Each fan is regulated by an internal PWM circuit which receives a control signal through the 4th wire, so if you set a 50% duty cycle the fan will run at what ever the internal controller specifies for that. 50% duty cycle doesn't always mean 50% rotational speed as each device/fan will have a minimum and maximum RPM.

For instance the H220 pump runs at around 1200 RPM at 0% duty cycle.


----------



## drnilly007

What rpm on the pump are most people needing for good temps with an extra 240mm rad and gpu full cover block?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> What rpm on the pump are most people needing for good temps with an extra 240mm rad and gpu full cover block?


Going to depend on the restriction of the added parts, but Martin has mentioned that stock, he only saw a 2-3c difference between 0% and 100% on the pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> If you have a sink with a pull out handle or the little sprayer on the side, the supply line should be almost identical in diameter to the fill hole on the radiator.


almost only counts in hand grenades and horseshoes.
best advice a boss gave me ever. if you are forcing it your doing it wrong !~ dont break it !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Just went ahead and got myself a corsair h110, not too happy about it but with all the mixed issues i heard about and mixed answered i got about h220 compatibility with sabertooth motherboards, i just decided to get a AIO unit and go full custom later since I need something better NOW (still using the stock amd cooler).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> As someone else mentioned, the Sabertooth isn't on the incompatibility list. And you can mount the cooler rotated 90* and the RAM slots will be clear..


i tried to tell him this but he didnt understand or wouldnt listen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Okay a question on fans for expanding the H220 (should be here in a few days).
> 
> If using the pwm splitter and the stock fans if I hook up another rad with lets say 800 rpm fans and the pump is set to 50% will the 800 rpm fans run at 400rpm/50% or since the stock fans are 1850 rpm, and 50% being 925rpm, cause the 800 rpm fan to run at max?


no
but you need to but similar fans together IE the 800rpm fan in push pull with another 800rpm fan and the other fans in push-pull with the other fan


----------



## kikibgd

i am interested in msi mpower z87 board or gigabyte Z87-oc

so swiftech dont have like compatibility list with new motherboards?


----------



## xarot

My third H220 is finally going back for refund today and replace with something else. It seems that my 680 that got leaked on is still working, but lost the warranty of course. Opened it and cleaned it. So far so good, all outputs of the card work where the leak was actually taking place.

If I am ever going to get a H320, I will leak-test it for a week in a bucket on some low-end core 2 gear.








But will lurk around here to see if it still has similar issues as the H220.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> My third H220 is finally going back for refund today and replace with something else. It seems that my 680 that got leaked on is still working, but lost the warranty of course. Opened it and cleaned it. So far so good, all outputs of the card work where the leak was actually taking place.
> 
> If I am ever going to get a H320, I will leak-test it for a week in a bucket on some low-end core 2 gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But will lurk around here to see if it still has similar issues as the H220.


Its that bad ??


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Its that bad ??


For me it was, but it happens. I don't want to add anything more into this discussion, it just didn't work out well for me.


----------



## Jahocowi

Thinking about getting this or the H100i. Going to get the Corsair 650D along with it.

Good idea?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Thinking about getting this or the H100i. Going to get the Corsair 650D along with it.
> 
> Good idea?


NO. If you can wait a couple more weeks all these problematic production units and quality control problems will have been snuffed out. The changes are being applied as we speak. I believe by the time the H320 ships in early July all will be well with the Swiftech H220 product line.
Gabe made a trip to China to get the problems corrected. He is a capable leader of his organization, both technically and as far as his human relations skills are concerned. So his managers and workers will be be by osmosis. He knows his business . An h100i is just not in the same quality class regarding radiator and pump quality and performance. The Swiftech is far quieter as well.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Thinking about getting this or the H100i. Going to get the Corsair 650D along with it.
> 
> Good idea?


H220, but not the 650D. Not a good case for air or watercooling.
There are better options out there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> My third H220 is finally going back for refund today and replace with something else. It seems that my 680 that got leaked on is still working, but lost the warranty of course. Opened it and cleaned it. So far so good, all outputs of the card work where the leak was actually taking place.
> 
> If I am ever going to get a H320, I will leak-test it for a week in a bucket on some low-end core 2 gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But will lurk around here to see if it still has similar issues as the H220.


Why would you lose warranty if still works? I removed heatsinks from my GPU all the time, warranty all there.


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why would you lose warranty if still works? I removed heatsinks from my GPU all the time, warranty all there.


Asus doesn't allow removal of the heatsink. Only EVGA.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Asus doesn't allow removal of the heatsink. Only EVGA.


as does xfx msi and a few others.


----------



## marc0053

Just finished my build with the H220. It works great so far


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220, but not the 650D. Not a good case for air or watercooling.
> There are better options out there.


Like? Cause, I asked about cases in another board here. They said the same thing, and recommended the 650D over what I had. Which was a Chaser MK-I.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Like? Cause, I asked about cases in another board here. They said the same thing, and recommended the 650D over what I had. Which was a Chaser MK-I.


several of the NZXT case work better with water cooling parts. The 650D will only be marginally better at water cooling than the MK-1. I have the 600T which shares a good portion of the 650D's interior (the 650D having a tiny bit more room in the top). If you want to see what I was able to manage with the 600T, check out my sig.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Asus doesn't allow removal of the heatsink. Only EVGA.


Many others you can remove. I removed from Asus cards many times, and warranty is fine. Its not the strict. its fine if the damage is not physical that is noticeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Like? Cause, I asked about cases in another board here. They said the same thing, and recommended the 650D over what I had. Which was a Chaser MK-I.


Chaser MK-I is even worse and looks bad. 650D is ok. For the price, there is better offers, that gives more options for watercooling and better airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> several of the NZXT case work better with water cooling parts. The 650D will only be marginally better at water cooling than the MK-1. I have the 600T which shares a good portion of the 650D's interior (the 650D having a tiny bit more room in the top). If you want to see what I was able to manage with the 600T, check out my sig.


600T and 650D have the exact same interior size. They are both the same case, just different shell.
NZXT and Fractal Design are the better choices. Corsair is coming out with the 540D, which is fantastic airflow and watercooling.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 600T and 650D have the exact same interior size. They are both the same case, just different shell.


not quite. The 650D is able to fit the radiator + fans on the inside of the case, whereas the 600T requires fans to be separated and mounted on top of the case. It's why I have to mount the reservoir fill port pointing down.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> not quite. The 650D is able to fit the radiator + fans on the inside of the case, whereas the 600T requires fans to be separated and mounted on top of the case. It's why I have to mount the reservoir fill port pointing down.


I had both cases. That is the only real difference.
No longer can justify the cost of the 650D, $160-200.


----------



## flaubert

Hello!

I have one question.

Swiftech H220 is compatible with intel 7 4770K?

Anyone has tested H220 with 4770k?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaubert*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have one question.
> 
> Swiftech H220 is compatible with intel 7 4770K?
> 
> Anyone has tested H220 with 4770k?


Don't see why it wouldn't be compatible.

Also wow, so new rma pump seems to be working with asus fan control. Old pump I would have to use speed fan and asus fan xpert didn't control it at all no matter what I tried. Using it now, pump is finally able to run under 2000 RPM. Nice!


----------



## flaubert

Thanks Bond32.....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaubert*
> 
> Thanks Bond32.....


While I don't have an Intel board, my asus 990fx crosshair v formula z board is listed as incompatible due to the large vrm heatsink. I was able to fit mine without any modification at all. What board do you have?


----------



## flaubert

I purchased, and I get in a few days, the Gigabyte Z87X-OC.


----------



## navit

I read this thread daily, I purpose the op put up a poll to see you does, has, or has not had problems with their units. Maybe this will give people who are on the fence a better way of looking at it. Just my two cents.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaubert*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have one question.
> 
> Swiftech H220 is compatible with intel 7 4770K?
> 
> Anyone has tested H220 with 4770k?


Installed on a I7 4770k/Z87 Sabertooth 2 days ago, running fine at 29c atm.


----------



## Face2Face

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I read this thread daily, I purpose the op put up a poll to see you does, has, or has not had problems with their units. Maybe this will give people who are on the fence a better way of looking at it. Just my two cents.


+1


----------



## flaubert

Thank you Teufelshunde......


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I read this thread daily, I purpose the op put up a poll to see you does, has, or has not had problems with their units. Maybe this will give people who are on the fence a better way of looking at it. Just my two cents.


I guess you mean "propose" not purpose.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> several of the NZXT case work better with water cooling parts. The 650D will only be marginally better at water cooling than the MK-1. I have the 600T which shares a good portion of the 650D's interior (the 650D having a tiny bit more room in the top). If you want to see what I was able to manage with the 600T, check out my sig.


a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra Supertower gaming case is the best for the money. Can fit a 360mm radiator top mounted without any problem very spacious, great air flow. Sold at Newegg regular price is $179.00 but when on sasle every 6 weeks or so you can get it for as low as $149 with free shipping


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> a Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra Supertower gaming case is the best for the money. Can fit a 360mm radiator top mounted without any problem very spacious, great air flow. Sold at Newegg regular price is $179.00 but when on sasle every 6 weeks or so you can get it for as low as $149 with free shipping


I wouldnt say it is the best for the money, while there is others, that can fit more for there size.
Even smaller cases can fit better, without need to such a large case.
Switch 810 can fit a triple 360/420 on top + 240/280 front or 240/280 bottom for under $170 with a side window.
Even Corsair new 540D can fir a 360+240/280 for $140, and its half the size.


----------



## Lil-Diabo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as does xfx msi and a few others.


I contacted MSI last week and they said they don't allow heatsink removal.
I wanted to change the TIM, not even put a waterblock.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I wouldnt say it is the best for the money, while there is others, that can fit more for there size.
> Even smaller cases can fit better, without need to such a large case.
> Switch 810 can fit a triple 360/420 on top + 240/280 front or 240/280 bottom for under $170 with a side window.
> Even Corsair new 540D can fir a 360+240/280 for $140, and its half the size.


That may be true, but there are other considerations. The case has better airflow by fans than most others that certainly is a consideration for overclocking and normal stock cpu usage.


----------



## dramabeats

This is the worst mounting solution I've ever used, I'm about to throw this backplate out the window. My replacement unit came with a kinked hose and stiff fittings, no pump noise but I'm pretty frustrated at this point


----------



## Phelan

For those with kinked hoses, wrap tightly a twisty tie around the kink to return its shape. Leave it there a few days use and it should return to normal.

I guess I don't understand the mounting issues. I have this on an LGA 2011 mobo, which doesn't use a backplate, but the APD2 uses the same backplate and I put that on a Maximus V Gene easily. But I also test mounted it before I put on thermal paste, so I was able to easily make the backplate stay before I mounted the cooler.


----------



## dramabeats

ziptie? Overall I'm satisfied with the replacement, makes a few noises when the pump turns on but it's relatively quiet


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Just wanted to give an update on my H220. I've had it since May 11th and it's been running great. Keeps my i7 930 @ 4.2ghz quite cool maxing out 57c.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> This is the worst mounting solution I've ever used, I'm about to throw this backplate out the window. My replacement unit came with a kinked hose and stiff fittings, no pump noise but I'm pretty frustrated at this point


Based on your posts, you have a 3570K -> socket 1155.

When we designed this bracket, we needed it to be universal for 775, 1155, 1366. Inside of the slot, the position of 1155 is in between 775 and 1366 (which are the two extremes) which makes it harder to locate. If we didn't have 775, then all you'd need to do is to push the standoff all the way inside and you'd be set. But as it stands, you need to locate each standoff in front of motherboard holes.

Next generation, we have decided to discontinue universal support for 775, which will make things much easier. We'll still support 775 but with a spare optional bracket.

Kink in tubing comes from packaging. I'v instructed staff to look into supporting that curve in the box to eliminate this.

Stiff fittings is normal - we now have implemented a dual o-ring solution instead of previous single o-ring - it is much safer.


----------



## dramabeats

Thanks for the explanation, its difficult to keep the backplate in place even with the adhesive


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lil-Diabo*
> 
> I contacted MSI last week and they said they don't allow heatsink removal.
> I wanted to change the TIM, not even put a waterblock.


yea that is their low level flunkies that read from a script 99% of the time. if you go higher and acctually talk to teck support they do allow for removal AS LONG AS you dont damage the card. i have emails stating so, that said xfx is the best to stating it as they just come out and say it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For those with kinked hoses, wrap tightly a twisty tie around the kink to return its shape. Leave it there a few days use and it should return to normal.
> 
> I guess I don't understand the mounting issues. I have this on an LGA 2011 mobo, which doesn't use a backplate, but the APD2 uses the same backplate and I put that on a Maximus V Gene easily. But I also test mounted it before I put on thermal paste, so I was able to easily make the backplate stay before I mounted the cooler.


or heat up the tubing.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Next generation, we have decided to discontinue universal support for 775, which will make things much easier. We'll still support 775 but with a spare optional bracket.


Will the new bracket be compatible with the current H220? If so will it be sold separately?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Like? Cause, I asked about cases in another board here. They said the same thing, and recommended the 650D over what I had. Which was a Chaser MK-I.


The Chaser MK-1 is not really designed for water cooling, same goes for my HAF XM, but at least with the XM the top of the case doesn't block airflow. They can handle a 240mm radiator just fine, but the lack of removable or repositional drive cages prevents you from doing much more than that. The image below shows a Swiftech H20-220 top mounted in the Chaser...you can see why it's a bad case choice.



I'm going to pick up a Fractal Arc XL when it's released next month.

Front - 240 mm radiators (thick and slim) when HDD cages are repositioned or removed
Top - 240mm radiators (thick) or 280 and 360mm radiators (slim)
Bottom - 120mm radiators
Rear - 120 and 140mm radiators


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Will the new bracket be compatible with the current H220? If so will it be sold separately?


The 775 bracket already exists, is compatible, and already sold separately.

The new bracket when it becomes available will also be compatible


----------



## dramabeats

temps dropped 10c with the new unit, thanks for the great support swiftech!


----------



## TheGovernment

Well, I think my h220 will be hitting the local sale block. After buying all the stuff for my loop (titan blocks, rads etc) I'd decided that I may as well go full custom. I bought a koolance 830i cpu block, ddc 3.25 pump with pwm support, a few 240 rads tonight. The h220 worked fine and I never had any problems but I'm going in balls deep now! lol
(and I'm secretly a bit worried about the pump failing as I got mine in the batches that seem to have the problems)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Well, I think my h220 will be hitting the local sale block. After buying all the stuff for my loop (titan blocks, rads etc) I'd decided that I may as well go full custom. I bought a koolance 830i cpu block, ddc 3.25 pump with pwm support, a few 240 rads tonight. The h220 worked fine and I never had any problems but I'm going in balls deep now! lol
> (and I'm secretly a bit worried about the pump failing as I got mine in the batches that seem to have the problems)


We are sorry to see you leave :-(

I am curious which DDC 3.25 with PWM support?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> The 775 bracket already exists, is compatible, and already sold separately.
> 
> The new bracket when it becomes available will also be compatible


.
Was referring to the bracket that isn't compatible with 775, the back plate was the only pain in putting the H220 on my Z77 board.


----------



## TheGovernment

It's this one : http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_ddc_3_2_pwm_18w_pump/ Though I guess it's a 3.2 as the original version was a 3.25.. No idea what that means but it's a well recommended pump and for my in Canada, it's a good deal ( I didn't buy it from directly from Dazmode though, I only paid $50 threw a friend who does high volume parts)

Oh, I also am not going to sell the h220, My brother in law is a teacher and I'll stick it on his pc in his classroom for his kids to monkey around with. He teaches computer science so he wants to expand it to show different ways to build. I don't really need the money so why not.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> It's this one : http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_ddc_3_2_pwm_18w_pump/ Though I guess it's a 3.2 as the original version was a 3.25.. No idea what that means but it's a well recommended pump and for my in Canada, it's a good deal ( I didn't buy it from directly from Dazmode though, I only paid $50 threw a friend who does high volume parts)
> 
> Oh, I also am not going to sell the h220, My brother in law is a teacher and I'll stick it on his pc in his classroom for his kids to monkey around with. He teaches computer science so he wants to expand it to show different ways to build. I don't really need the money so why not.


it is a very good pump. only difference from 3.2 to 3.25 is the Maximum pressure. 3.2 = 16ft, 3.25 22ft
Which is like Swiftech MCP35X (same as the 3.25)
MartinLabs did a quick info on the 3.25. Which is back from 2009.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220936-Perusing-Laing-s-website-and-found-this...DDC-3.25


----------



## dramabeats

Guess I spoke too soon.. the pump on the new unit decided to quit, never thought I'd surpass tj Max on facebook.


----------



## Nuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> This is the worst mounting solution I've ever used, I'm about to throw this backplate out the window. My replacement unit came with a kinked hose and stiff fittings, no pump noise but I'm pretty frustrated at this point


I have to agree with this. There really really needs to be a separate backplate for LGA 1155/1150. It took me ages to install the backplate, and the adhesive is way too inadequate.


----------



## IronAge

Where it may be bought ? its available nowhere ?!

I want to join the owners club.









there will be a new bracket ? will early adopters get it for free on demand ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> Guess I spoke too soon.. the pump on the new unit decided to quit, never thought I'd surpass tj Max on facebook.


Are you using the splitter or is the pump plugged directly into the mobo?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I guess you mean "propose" not purpose.


yes I did, stupid iPhone.


----------



## dallas1990

I got my swiftech h220 last week. One of the tubes is blocking a ram slot







though I never thought about moving the brackets to see if I can have all 4 slots back. My mono is a sabertooth fx990 r2.0. But so far I'm very pleased with it. I'll post pics of it later when I rotate the mounting brackets.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuck*
> 
> I have to agree with this. There really really needs to be a separate backplate for LGA 1155/1150. It took me ages to install the backplate, and the adhesive is way too inadequate.


As I posted a while back, I fully agree that this mounting kit is horrible. Someone posted a tip about using the Corsair Hydro series mounting screws to mount this with, and that makes it a LOT easier. The Corsair kit holds the backplate in place with four screws that you screw into with the H220 pump / block. I am not sure if there is a way to acquire the Corsair mounting hardware separately though.


----------



## jderbs

I want to take the plunge and expand my h220 to cover my SLI 780s as well... would I have to use the same size tubings and fittings as the kit? And what about an additional radiator? Any suggestions on blocks?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I want to take the plunge and expand my h220 to cover my SLI 780s as well... would I have to use the same size tubings and fittings as the kit? And what about an additional radiator? Any suggestions on blocks?


you would have to use the original size tubing between anything that interfaces with either the h220 radiator or the pump/block. You could change tubing size between an aftermarket radiator and gpu blocks by utilizing different sized fittings, but i think it wont be of any benefit and it'll look a little strange. I would keep the original tubing spec to keep things simple.

you could also fashion a "converter" of sorts by using short pieces of tubing that lead to an open G1/4 port. But again, not very clean. There are fittings available that do this.


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you would have to use the original size tubing between anything that interfaces with either the h220 radiator or the pump/block. You could change tubing size between an aftermarket radiator and gpu blocks by utilizing different sized fittings, but i think it wont be of any benefit and it'll look a little strange. I would keep the original tubing spec to keep things simple.
> 
> you could also fashion a "converter" of sorts by using short pieces of tubing that lead to an open G1/4 port. But again, not very clean. There are fittings available that do this.


Okay, I'll just keep everything the same in that case. Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I want to take the plunge and expand my h220 to cover my SLI 780s as well... would I have to use the same size tubings and fittings as the kit? And what about an additional radiator? Any suggestions on blocks?


Swiftech Komodo 780 blocks for the GPUs







. I would recommend you run them parallel and not series though, to lessen the pressure drop.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you using the splitter or is the pump plugged directly into the mobo?


I tried both, I jumped it straight off the power supply and nothing


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> I tried both, I jumped it straight off the power supply and nothing


How were you running it when it was running fine?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> How were you running it when it was running fine?


straight off the CPU header, in contact with swiftech now


----------



## Skullwipe

Really starting to think that the small gap caused by the thin piece of sheet metal between the fans and radiator (radiator inside, fans on top) is causing me to get 2-3c temp difference, I'll know for sure when I get my new case next month. I just can't help but feel that a 3570k shouldn't peak 78c (hottest core) at 4.4 Ghz on 1.21v after 20 minutes of p95 blend.

Edit: I also just heard the sound of what I only describe as trickling water for the first time. I opened up the reservoir and it's still topped off, checked all the hose clamps and everything is tight and dry. A bit scary since I've not heard anything but the pump hum and fans after the first 2 hours of running the unit.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Really starting to think that the small gap caused by the thin piece of sheet metal between the fans and radiator (radiator inside, fans on top) is causing me to get 2-3c temp difference, I'll know for sure when I get my new case next month. I just can't help but feel that a 3570k shouldn't peak 78c (hottest core) at 4.4 Ghz on 1.21v after 20 minutes of p95 blend.


If you didn't lid it, then that is good temps for Ivy.


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Swiftech Komodo 780 blocks for the GPUs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would recommend you run them parallel and not series though, to lessen the pressure drop.


So that would mean I need a splitter off the pump? What would the loop look like?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Really starting to think that the small gap caused by the thin piece of sheet metal between the fans and radiator (radiator inside, fans on top) is causing me to get 2-3c temp difference, I'll know for sure when I get my new case next month. I just can't help but feel that a 3570k shouldn't peak 78c (hottest core) at 4.4 Ghz on 1.21v after 20 minutes of p95 blend.
> 
> Edit: I also just heard the sound of what I only describe as trickling water for the first time. I opened up the reservoir and it's still topped off, checked all the hose clamps and everything is tight and dry. A bit scary since I've not heard anything but the pump hum and fans after the first 2 hours of running the unit.


that's about what I get on mine, you need to delid to see a good drop


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> straight off the CPU header, in contact with swiftech now


Just sent you an email regarding a replacement. Let me know if that will be satisfactory for you.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> that's about what I get on mine, you need to delid to see a good drop


I'm waffling a bit, my voltages are pretty bad, so I may try and sell my chip and pick up a newer 3770k.


----------



## yamaharacer19

When will the new H320 and H120 become available in the USA?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> straight off the CPU header, in contact with swiftech now


Are you sure the mobo wasn't adjusting the pump with voltage instead of pwm? This could easily be the cause of failure, and it's happened several times already.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I got my new H220 rma. Last one lasted 35 days. Noise and dead pump. Which is fine.
Other unit at 30% was 1558 rpm. New one is now at 1773 rpm.
Mine does a a kink in tube, I think it's from the edge of the rad while it was packaged.
Not noticeable, unless you look closely.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you sure the mobo wasn't adjusting the pump with voltage instead of pwm? This could easily be the cause of failure, and it's happened several times already.


I already ruled that out. He had the motherboard set to PWM because that's the only way he could use Speedfan to adjust and monitor his pump speeds. Thanks for trying though.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> it is a very good pump. only difference from 3.2 to 3.25 is the Maximum pressure. 3.2 = 16ft, 3.25 22ft
> Which is like Swiftech MCP35X (same as the 3.25)
> MartinLabs did a quick info on the 3.25. Which is back from 2009.
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220936-Perusing-Laing-s-website-and-found-this...DDC-3.25


I got the xspc top for it as well, so it should be almost equal to a stock 3.25. I was going to get the 3.25 but wanted the pwm control like the H220 and for $50 I can't be too choosy hahaha.


----------



## Skullwipe

Idle temps have gone up 4-6c since I heard that trickling sound this afternoon, used to idle between 32-34c now I sit at 37-40c...rather irritating.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Idle temps have gone up 4-6c since I heard that trickling sound this afternoon, used to idle between 32-34c now I sit at 37-40c...rather irritating.


probably have some air stuck near or in the pump.

Another tip I found to get hopefully most of the air out is filling the radiator to the brim that it nearly overflows, but the surface tension keeps it from overflowing (kind of like a bubble). Then angle the radiator whichever way to work what little air is left in the res out. It'll bubble and then return down into the res (little to no water actually spilling). Repeat by filling the rad again up to the brim so that it creates a bubble of sorts, then tilt again. Rinse and repeat. That seemed to work every last bit of air out of the res. However if you have air pockets elsewhere in the loop you will probably need to repeat this process again.

i can max out the pump now with no hint of water noise.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> probably have some air stuck near or in the pump.
> 
> Another tip I found to get hopefully most of the air out is filling the radiator to the brim that it nearly overflows, but the surface tension keeps it from overflowing (kind of like a bubble). Then angle the radiator whichever way to work what little air is left in the res out. It'll bubble and then return down into the res (little to no water actually spilling). Repeat by filling the rad again up to the brim so that it creates a bubble of sorts, then tilt again. Rinse and repeat. That seemed to work every last bit of air out of the res. However if you have air pockets elsewhere in the loop you will probably need to repeat this process again.
> 
> i can max out the pump now with no hint of water noise.


Been running it for a month+ with no noise, I followed a very similar procedure to what you described when I first got it. I just find it a bit odd that after a month I'd suddenly develop an air pocket, the reservoir is still filled to the brim.

Edit: I want to point out that I only heard the noise for about 45 seconds to a minute, been running the pump speed between 0%-100% PWM just kind of randomly switching it every few minutes and I've not heard it again. Right now I'm testing to see if it's only idle temps, or if load temps increased as well.

Yet Another Edit: Idle temps are staying high, but load temps are exactly the same as they were before. No idea *** is going on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> I want to take the plunge and expand my h220 to cover my SLI 780s as well... would I have to use the same size tubings and fittings as the kit? And what about an additional radiator? Any suggestions on blocks?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> So that would mean I need a splitter off the pump? What would the loop look like?


see the pm i sent you to get your attention.
Quote:


> you can use the same size tubing.
> as far as extra rads. what is reccomended at MINIMUM is 1 120mm one fan rad PER peice of equip.
> ( 1 for cpu one for each gpu )
> 
> again that is minimum . i like 1x120 daul fan rads ( 240 ) minimum.
> that is a personal choice. easy way to look at it is a high end heat sink is a 1 fan 120mm rad. same with vga coolers.


if you want you can use different size tubing but from the way i understand you are limited at the pump due to the fittings on the pump itself. i could be wrong.
as for parallel vs series swiftech actually has a great writeup on it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Been running it for a month+ with no noise, I followed a very similar procedure to what you described when I first got it. I just find it a bit odd that after a month I'd suddenly develop an air pocket, the reservoir is still filled to the brim.
> 
> Edit: I want to point out that I only heard the noise for about 45 seconds to a minute, been running the pump speed between 0%-100% PWM just kind of randomly switching it every few minutes and I've not heard it again. Right now I'm testing to see if it's only idle temps, or if load temps increased as well.
> 
> Yet Another Edit: Idle temps are staying high, but load temps are exactly the same as they were before. No idea *** is going on.


again did you delid it? are you sure your made good contact? have you tried reseating the block?


----------



## drnilly007

Well just got my H220 today. I let it run outside the case for a few hours all was good. Unfortunately before I was going to install it I got the crazy idea to de-lid my cpu and ended up destroying it in the process so all I have is this Sandy celeron G540.

On stock cooler running prime was hitting 57c and now with pump on low (1200rpm) 47c, pump at 1800 42c, so overall pretty good so far cant wait though til I can get my hands on another ivy k chip.

Installed in a Cooler Master 690 II advanced case.


Tubing is really long and once I get my gpu into the loop gonna trim the tubing, as in the current case (medium atx) its about 2x too much tubing.

And of course R.I.P. my beloved 3570k which loved to run 4.6 @1.32v






















































Well at least I got my H220 today and my 1st ever SSD and fresh windows install today.


----------



## Nomad692000

I wanted to delid my 3570k but was afraid of cutting my hand or worse yet friggin up my cpu. I tried the vise and wood block method and worked out fine. Sorry to hear about the processor, at least you got a backup. I've heard good thinks about the H220


----------



## Mega Man

that sucks man sorry.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again did you delid it? are you sure your made good contact? have you tried reseating the block?


Chip is not delidded, and I haven't taken the H220 off since I first mounted it. As I said, I heard the sound of running water for maybe 45 seconds to a minute at which point I gave the hoses a good flick at every bend and rocked the case on every axis a few times. The sound hasn't come back and there as no air at the fill hole, but my idle temps have increased 4-6c, load temps are the same as always.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Chip is not delidded, and I haven't taken the H220 off since I first mounted it. As I said, I heard the sound of running water for maybe 45 seconds to a minute at which point I gave the hoses a good flick at every bend and rocked the case on every axis a few times. The sound hasn't come back and there as no air at the fill hole, but my idle temps have increased 4-6c, load temps are the same as always.


Did the temp increase happened after you moved the case around or before? You could have induced a bubble into your pump even though your rad/res was full. I would put a small drop of dish soap into your res and let that run through your system for a bit. I'll loosen up trapped bubbles that my be in your loop.


----------



## drnilly007

What dish soap? That'll make more bubbles.


----------



## yamaharacer19

No it won't (if you put a small single drop in). I have proof over at overclockers.com. I told someone to use dish soap to remove bubbles in their res and they did it. The dish soap removed the bubbles and didn't cause new bubbles to form from the dish soap. If you don't believe me then don't do it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Well just got my H220 today. I let it run outside the case for a few hours all was good. Unfortunately before I was going to install it I got the crazy idea to de-lid my cpu and ended up destroying it in the process so all I have is this Sandy celeron G540.
> 
> On stock cooler running prime was hitting 57c and now with pump on low (1200rpm) 47c, pump at 1800 42c, so overall pretty good so far cant wait though til I can get my hands on another ivy k chip.
> 
> Installed in a Cooler Master 690 II advanced case.
> 
> 
> Tubing is really long and once I get my gpu into the loop gonna trim the tubing, as in the current case (medium atx) its about 2x too much tubing.
> 
> And of course R.I.P. my beloved 3570k which loved to run 4.6 @1.32v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well at least I got my H220 today and my 1st ever SSD and fresh windows install today.


Is the waferboard cracked all the way through? If it's just bent I'd try bending it back and seeing if it works..


----------



## selk22

Just wanted to thank the h220 for my mild 4.4 OC on my 3930k! Its giving me really even temps and very low noise.. Here is a celebratory Screenshot lol


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Well just got my H220 today. I let it run outside the case for a few hours all was good. Unfortunately before I was going to install it I got the crazy idea to de-lid my cpu and ended up destroying it in the process so all I have is this Sandy celeron G540.
> 
> On stock cooler running prime was hitting 57c and now with pump on low (1200rpm) 47c, pump at 1800 42c, so overall pretty good so far cant wait though til I can get my hands on another ivy k chip.
> 
> Installed in a Cooler Master 690 II advanced case.
> 
> 
> Tubing is really long and once I get my gpu into the loop gonna trim the tubing, as in the current case (medium atx) its about 2x too much tubing.
> 
> And of course R.I.P. my beloved 3570k which loved to run 4.6 @1.32v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well at least I got my H220 today and my 1st ever SSD and fresh windows install today.


which method did you use to delid?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Chip is not delidded, and I haven't taken the H220 off since I first mounted it. As I said, I heard the sound of running water for maybe 45 seconds to a minute at which point I gave the hoses a good flick at every bend and rocked the case on every axis a few times. The sound hasn't come back and there as no air at the fill hole, but my idle temps have increased 4-6c, load temps are the same as always.


is your pump noisier? mine did the same thing before I got too annoyed with it and RMA'd, you could only hear the new one with your ear right next to it


----------



## NeoDestiny

Ahh, just figured out (I think) what the problem is with this pump that I got back for my last dead one.

I think that there is some sort of internal safety mechanism on this pump that is causing it to shut off when it reaches some temperature.

If I OC my 3930 and start benching it using ITB, everything is fine...for a bit. But once it's been 75C for a while, the pump will shut off, the CPU will start to throttle itself, and the pump will remain off until I power down the computer and leave it off for a couple hours.

I have tried attaching the pump directly to a molex-powered fan controller; I've swapped other fans in and out of different motherboard headers to make sure everything was working correctly.

Is there any way to access that internal mechanism? Does one even exist, or am I crazy and there's some other problem going on?


----------



## xarot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Ahh, just figured out (I think) what the problem is with this pump that I got back for my last dead one.
> 
> I think that there is some sort of internal safety mechanism on this pump that is causing it to shut off when it reaches some temperature.
> 
> If I OC my 3930 and start benching it using ITB, everything is fine...for a bit. But once it's been 75C for a while, the pump will shut off, the CPU will start to throttle itself, and the pump will remain off until I power down the computer and leave it off for a couple hours.
> 
> I have tried attaching the pump directly to a molex-powered fan controller; I've swapped other fans in and out of different motherboard headers to make sure everything was working correctly.
> 
> Is there any way to access that internal mechanism? Does one even exist, or am I crazy and there's some other problem going on?


I don't think there's any safety mechanism. It's dead..


----------



## ez12a

Yeah, sorry to say Destiny, I had the same behavior with my first pump. I think the PWM circuitry is faulty.

My first pump would shut off during prime95, then gradually become worse and shut down after booting into windows. This was all powered off a splitter connected to a separate good PSU w/ the PWM cable not connected. I still have a video of it on my cell phone lol.

it'll run it seems for hours with the computer off. Luckily I have not had the problem with my 2nd pump.


----------



## dsmwookie

It took me 3-4 hours to remove the bubbles in my wife's HAF XB with a 120 rad. It made an obnoxious noise as well.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> It took me 3-4 hours to remove the bubbles in my wife's HAF XB with a 120 rad. It made an obnoxious noise as well.


Me too, same case and I have an additional 120 rad too.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Ahh, just figured out (I think) what the problem is with this pump that I got back for my last dead one.
> 
> I think that there is some sort of internal safety mechanism on this pump that is causing it to shut off when it reaches some temperature.
> 
> If I OC my 3930 and start benching it using ITB, everything is fine...for a bit. But once it's been 75C for a while, the pump will shut off, the CPU will start to throttle itself, and the pump will remain off until I power down the computer and leave it off for a couple hours.
> 
> I have tried attaching the pump directly to a molex-powered fan controller; I've swapped other fans in and out of different motherboard headers to make sure everything was working correctly.
> 
> Is there any way to access that internal mechanism? Does one even exist, or am I crazy and there's some other problem going on?


I'm very sorry to hear about this. I sent you a PM. Let me know how you would like to proceed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoDestiny*
> 
> Ahh, just figured out (I think) what the problem is with this pump that I got back for my last dead one.
> 
> I think that there is some sort of internal safety mechanism on this pump that is causing it to shut off when it reaches some temperature.
> 
> If I OC my 3930 and start benching it using ITB, everything is fine...for a bit. But once it's been 75C for a while, the pump will shut off, the CPU will start to throttle itself, and the pump will remain off until I power down the computer and leave it off for a couple hours.
> 
> I have tried attaching the pump directly to a molex-powered fan controller; I've swapped other fans in and out of different motherboard headers to make sure everything was working correctly.
> 
> Is there any way to access that internal mechanism? Does one even exist, or am I crazy and there's some other problem going on?


Neo I got the same problem with my two first units...RMA both and on my third nothing similar happen. So I regret to say most likely is something bad on the pump circuitry. The third unit is fine on that side but is making a hell of a noise.... I will have to take it apart and flush it to make sure is clean but not my priority right now since I decide to go full custom. I guess h220 (and the problems I got with it) were the incentive I needed it to get wet. In fact despite all the problems with the h220 I think is an awesome product in many ways (including being a "barrier breaker" of sorts for people wanting to take the first plunge). So in a couple of days I will have both gpus and cpu in a custom loop with d5 pwm swiftech pump at the core of it and two komodos. Leak testing in a fractal xl r2 case as we speak and dead silent. BTW the swiftech qp 220 radiator I got was very clean while the EK xt 240 was really dirty.... I will post pictures of the h220 system before I take it apart so that I can officially become a club member since I will most likely move the h220 to the work PC. Good luck Neo.


----------



## Lil-Diabo

Tried the search function but to no avail

I know the tubing is 3/8 5/8
Any specification as to what the wall thickness is.
I remember a while ago reading that people had issues with XSPC tubing, wanna make sure before i buy some extra clear tubing


----------



## Gabrielzm

My recall was primochill lrt tubing with problems...But even this one is just a matter of heating up a little bit in warm water and you are good to go. 3/8 is the inner diameter and 5/8 the external so any tubing within that specs should do the trick.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lil-Diabo*
> 
> Tried the search function but to no avail
> 
> I know the tubing is 3/8 5/8
> Any specification as to what the wall thickness is.
> I remember a while ago reading that people had issues with XSPC tubing, wanna make sure before i buy some extra clear tubing


The issue was with Primochill LRT tubing and Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings. If you use barbs on everything or possibly another brand of fittings, you won't have a problem with the LRT stuff. If you are just replacing the tubing with LRT in the H220, the block and rad in the H220 have swivel barbs and clamps, which the LRT tubing fits fine in.


----------



## Robbieladd

do the math: 5/8-3/8 = 1/4 /2 = 1/8


----------



## TheEnergy

Just installed the Swiftech h220 in my arc midi r2.

"CPU fan error"

OH WHY OH WHY OH WHY?

someone please tell me.....!!!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just installed the Swiftech h220 in my arc midi r2.
> 
> "CPU fan error"
> 
> OH WHY OH WHY OH WHY?
> 
> someone please tell me.....!!!


Are You using the splitter? If so maybe it's faulty.


----------



## Gabrielzm

or it might me just an automatic alarm if rpm is below some threshold. Can you get in BIOS or the pump is not working at all? If you hear it and touching the pump you feel its working then try get in BIOS and check fan and pc health options.


----------



## TheEnergy

Can the swiftech h220 tubes touch the graphics card and possibly static shock or melt?

please let me know!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## yamaharacer19

I wonder if anyone has tried to mount the H220 pump/block onto a gpu. That would be awesome if someone did that and posted here.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can the swiftech h220 tubes touch the graphics card and possibly static shock or melt?
> 
> please let me know!!!!!!!!!!!!


I have the same case and mine mounts similar to that, I have tiny a bit of space between graphics card and tube, shouldn't hurt if they touch


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can the swiftech h220 tubes touch the graphics card and possibly static shock or melt?
> 
> please let me know!!!!!!!!!!!!


I am going to say no. You could always put some zip ties to keep them off if you want to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can the swiftech h220 tubes touch the graphics card and possibly static shock or melt?
> 
> please let me know!!!!!!!!!!!!


you should not have any problems with melting. however i would not let it touch it due to rubbing over time can create a hole.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just installed the Swiftech h220 in my arc midi r2.
> 
> "CPU fan error"
> 
> OH WHY OH WHY OH WHY?
> 
> someone please tell me.....!!!


From the image you are using the Z87 Sabertooth.
You need to plug the fan to CPU header, not CPU_OPT and check bios to disable and CPU_OPT monitoring.
Remove the top cage, to allow airflow through.


----------



## Deeya

Finally expanding my H220 to include my 7970 and trying to plan out my loop and trying to avoid long sections of tubing but everything I am coming up with will look awful when I visualize it? Anyone have any ideas on which routes I used, here's the crude template i've been working with.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Finally expanding my H220 to include my 7970 and trying to plan out my loop and trying to avoid long sections of tubing but everything I am coming up with will look awful when I visualize it? Anyone have any ideas on which routes I used, here's the crude template i've been working with.


Run the lines straight down from the top rad to the cpu, cpu-gpu, gpu-bottom rad, and run the return line from the bottom rad to the top and hide it behind the mobo tray







.

You may even want to rotate the pump 90* so that your lines don't zig zag much.


----------



## Deeya

Was thinking something like this if I remove both HDD trays and put my drives in the optical bay



Also running tubing behind mobo way seems like it'd be a hassle when leak testing outside of the case.


----------



## Phelan

That looks good too







.


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone know how many times the included TIM-Mate thermal paste with the Swiftech H220 can be used?

I already used it to mount the cpu block 1 time, but wanted to try re-mounting 1 more time - would I have enough thermalpaste or was it simply intended for 1 use??

Please let me know


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know how many times the included TIM-Mate thermal paste with the Swiftech H220 can be used?
> 
> I already used it to mount the cpu block 1 time, but wanted to try re-mounting 1 more time - would I have enough thermalpaste or was it simply intended for 1 use??
> 
> Please let me know


You should have at least enough in the tube to do two or three cooler to IHS mounts. It is not advisable to reuse TIM ever. Best practices dictates that you completely clean used TIM off both surfaces with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and then use fresh TIM.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know how many times the included TIM-Mate thermal paste with the Swiftech H220 can be used?
> 
> I already used it to mount the cpu block 1 time, but wanted to try re-mounting 1 more time - would I have enough thermalpaste or was it simply intended for 1 use??
> 
> Please let me know


I got 2 applications out of mine.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Just got my h220 today, replaced H100 from a year 1/2 ago. Just looked really tacky lol. Decided to get my feet wet no pun intended







. Heres a pic of it installed



http://imgur.com/i5pNjNd



The ram heat sincs "were" originally blue







, But i removed them rough sanded them and spray painted them black


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Finally expanding my H220 to include my 7970 and trying to plan out my loop and trying to avoid long sections of tubing but everything I am coming up with will look awful when I visualize it? Anyone have any ideas on which routes I used, here's the crude template i've been working with.


This is what I would do.
Why? I like to have a rad in between components. It doesnt make sense to me to send the hot water from the cpu block into the gpu block without cooling first.
In the picture you can draw lines wherever you want but wether or not you will be able to run the long line from cpu to bottom rad alongside the return line to gpu to "slim line " the look or not will depend on gpu block and the placement of the fittings.

In theory I think this would look good and function best overall.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> This is what I would do.
> Why? I like to have a rad in between components. It doesnt make sense to me to send the hot water from the cpu block into the gpu block without cooling first.
> In the picture you can draw lines wherever you want but wether or not you will be able to run the long line from cpu to bottom rad alongside the return line to gpu to "slim line " the look or not will depend on gpu block and the placement of the fittings.
> 
> In theory I think this would look good and function best overall.


The order of which your components are in a loop has been proven to make almost no difference at all (<1*C). Temps will equalize after a couple minutes.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I shouldn't see that big of a temp drop/difference if any from an H100 on an ivy bridge unless i delid right? Just making sure i wont see worse temps than that. Rather it be the same or better .I spent about 5 hours yesterday cleaning every inch of my case and re-doing some of the cables in the back (no effect on airflow).

I have the 220 pulling air into the case. 140 inside as exhaust. have a 140 on the bottom sucking air in. and a 140 on the HD bay blowing air across. My GTX 670's don't have backplates so they heat up pretty good. I was wondering if i should mod a fan to blow air directly across my gpu's for now to lower the rising heat that hits the tubing of the h220.

Idle temps nothing running is low 30's, haven't ran a stress test


----------



## justanoldman

^Delidding is the only way to get a large drop in temps from an Ivy chip. However Ivy chips vary quite widely in their oc ability and their pre-delid temps. One of my 3770k was 10c hotter than the other with the same oc and cooler. This is due to Intel using varying amounts of glue holding down the IHS, and thus preventing it from making good contact with the die.

Most people who delid, use a liquid metal TIM on the die, and take the time to do everything right get a 10 to 20c drop. Some get more than that but is usually because they started with hotter than average chip.


----------



## Caos

hello. I just got my h220 and I want to know how long I have to try out the case to check for leaks? I do not like my h80i







.. I'm from Paraguay - Latin America.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> ^Delidding is the only way to get a large drop in temps from an Ivy chip. However Ivy chips vary quite widely in their oc ability and their pre-delid temps. One of my 3770k was 10c hotter than the other with the same oc and cooler. This is due to Intel using varying amounts of glue holding down the IHS, and thus preventing it from making good contact with the die.
> 
> Most people who delid, use a liquid metal TIM on the die, and take the time to do everything right get a 10 to 20c drop. Some get more than that but is usually because they started with hotter than average chip.


I'm really considering doing it right now, just kinda scared. I know the chip itself is right in the middle so as long as i'm gentle with the blade going along the edges i should be ok.

Does it HAVE to be the liquid metal TIM?, or can anything be used vs the crap Intel put on there?. example i have some tubes of AS5 laying around and a good chunk of the TIM that came with the 220. I'm read some places not to use AS5 because its grainy (the silver particles).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello. I just got my h220 and I want to know how long I have to try out the case to check for leaks? I do not like my h80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I'm from Paraguay - Latin America.


I didn't test mine at all.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I'm really considering doing it right now, just kinda scared. I know the chip itself is right in the middle so as long as i'm gentle with the blade going along the edges i should be ok.
> 
> Does it HAVE to be the liquid metal TIM?, or can anything be used vs the crap Intel put on there?. example i have some tubes of AS5 laying around and a good chunk of the TIM that came with the 220. I'm read some places not to use AS5 because its grainy (the silver particles).


Not using CLU etc is just not worth it. The liquid metal ones are ideal for this usage.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello. I just got my h220 and I want to know how long I have to try out the case to check for leaks? I do not like my h80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I'm from Paraguay - Latin America.


I would test it for a few hours at the absolute minimum just to be safe. That way you can make sure you don't have any pump issues and no leaks. To be really safe many people do 24 hour leak tests.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I'm really considering doing it right now, just kinda scared. I know the chip itself is right in the middle so as long as i'm gentle with the blade going along the edges i should be ok.
> 
> Does it HAVE to be the liquid metal TIM?, or can anything be used vs the crap Intel put on there?. example i have some tubes of AS5 laying around and a good chunk of the TIM that came with the 220. I'm read some places not to use AS5 because its grainy (the silver particles).


Yes you have to use a liquid metal TIM on the die. There is nothing wrong with the TIM that Intel uses, the problem is the glue application keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die. Many a delidder has commented that they wouldn't have bothered to delid unless they could use a liquid metal TIM on the die. I used AS5 at first too because I was waiting for Ultra in the mail. The AS5 results were not exciting, but the Ultra results (once you get the right amount and application down) were great.

By the way, if you have the right vise, that is probably the safer method vs. the razor.


----------



## Caos

ok thank you very much for the answers. I'll try 24 hours.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Would this fit the 900D


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Would this fit the 900D


I detect a bit of sarcasm here? I think you can fit an elephant inside the 900d....


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I shouldn't see that big of a temp drop/difference if any from an H100 on an ivy bridge unless i delid right? Just making sure i wont see worse temps than that. Rather it be the same or better .I spent about 5 hours yesterday cleaning every inch of my case and re-doing some of the cables in the back (no effect on airflow).I have the 220 pulling air into the case. 140 inside as exhaust. have a 140 on the bottom sucking air in. and a 140 on the HD bay blowing air across. My GTX 670's don't have backplates so they heat up pretty good. I was wondering if i should mod a fan to blow air directly across my gpu's for now to lower the rising heat that hits the tubing of the h220.Idle temps nothing running is low 30's, haven't ran a stress test


May be as simple as re-applying TIM to CPU/H220, wouldn't be the 1st time that there wasn't enuff or too little or didn't spread evenly.
built my rig a week ago (Sabertooth Z87/4770k, idle temps surfing web (thermal radar 25-27c) CpuidHW (25-29)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello. I just got my h220 and I want to know how long I have to try out the case to check for leaks? I do not like my h80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I'm from Paraguay - Latin America.


min recommended is 24 hours.. however it is personal choice i know several people who dont leak test.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I'm really considering doing it right now, just kinda scared. I know the chip itself is right in the middle so as long as i'm gentle with the blade going along the edges i should be ok.
> 
> Does it HAVE to be the liquid metal TIM?, or can anything be used vs the crap Intel put on there?. example i have some tubes of AS5 laying around and a good chunk of the TIM that came with the 220. I'm read some places not to use AS5 because its grainy (the silver particles).


hammer vice method is better from what i have heard. much less dangerous. but i did see 1 chip damaged from it. looks like he hit the corner vs the flat side....


----------



## TheGovernment

Is the splitter that comes with the h220 the same on all connections? curious if the red slot for the pump is only red for show ? Looking at it looks like it's just for show but I'd like to know for sure. I just put it it the schools pc and they have another pwm pump they want to hook up, it seems to work but they want to know for sure.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Is the splitter that comes with the h220 the same on all connections? curious if the red slot for the pump is only red for show ? Looking at it looks like it's just for show but I'd like to know for sure. I just put it it the schools pc and they have another pwm pump they want to hook up, it seems to work but they want to know for sure.


The red is the only port to show RPM speed. Thats it.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would test it for a few hours at the absolute minimum just to be safe. That way you can make sure you don't have any pump issues and no leaks. To be really safe many people do 24 hour leak tests.
> Yes you have to use a liquid metal TIM on the die. There is nothing wrong with the TIM that Intel uses, the problem is the glue application keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die. Many a delidder has commented that they wouldn't have bothered to delid unless they could use a liquid metal TIM on the die. I used AS5 at first too because I was waiting for Ultra in the mail. The AS5 results were not exciting, but the Ultra results (once you get the right amount and application down) were great.
> 
> By the way, if you have the right vise, that is probably the safer method vs. the razor.


I successfully delidded my 3770k, and cleaned everything up. Just for kicks i applied AS5 to the die and re-seated the IHS on top of it. it seemed like it moves around a little bit, is that normal? Held it with 1 finger i secured it to the MB. I then applied a vertical line of AS5 on the IHS and re-seated my H220 on it. I'm assuming because AS5 has a 200+ hr cure time and isn't recommend for doing delidding is why i'm not seeing a temp drop really at all. But shouldn't i have seen it come down at least a little bit?

What would be the best alternative to the coollabs stuff


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The red is the only port to show RPM speed. Thats it.


beauty, thanks!


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> 
> 
> Won't have a chance to reapply the thermal paste this afternoon, but here's my proof so I can join!
> 
> Tomorrow hopefully I'll have time to get the reapply the paste and get proper tests going.


Do you get better temps having 4 fans mounted in the h220 radiator in that push/pull configuration?

does anyone know how to unscrew the stock fans? the screw is hidden under the fan and all the shafts of my screws drivers are too fat to fit!


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> 
> 
> here is the bent fins, add me to the club


Are the fins able to be bent by simply handling/touching the radiator? are they that weak on the h220 radiator???


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Do you get better temps having 4 fans mounted in the h220 radiator in that push/pull configuration?
> 
> does anyone know how to unscrew the stock fans? the screw is hidden under the fan and all the shafts of my screws drivers are too fat to fit!


PS striker is a noob


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I successfully delidded my 3770k, and cleaned everything up. Just for kicks i applied AS5 to the die and re-seated the IHS on top of it. it seemed like it moves around a little bit, is that normal? Held it with 1 finger i secured it to the MB. I then applied a vertical line of AS5 on the IHS and re-seated my H220 on it. I'm assuming because AS5 has a 200+ hr cure time and isn't recommend for doing delidding is why i'm not seeing a temp drop really at all. But shouldn't i have seen it come down at least a little bit?
> 
> What would be the best alternative to the coollabs stuff


Congrats on the successful delid.









You probably used too much on the die, but even if you get it perfect you will not see much of a temp drop with it. Every single person, except one, who has delidded has only gotten a good temp drop by using a liquid metal TIM on the die like Pro or Ultra.

It is tricky to get the IHS to stay just where you want it when clamping it into the mobo. It took me several times before I got the hang of it, and I do way you did, hold in down firmly with one finger.

Many of us have tried other TIMs and they always seem to give either not very good results, like you are seeing, or just a little bit of a temp drop. This has been going on for about a year now, and I am not just giving my advice. I am stating what virtually every single delidder here has found: you need to use a liquid metal TIM on the die.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Congrats on the successful delid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You probably used too much on the die, but even if you get it perfect you will not see much of a temp drop with it. Every single person, except one, who has delidded has only gotten a good temp drop by using a liquid metal TIM on the die like Pro or Ultra.
> 
> It is tricky to get the IHS to stay just where you want it when clamping it into the mobo. It took me several times before I got the hang of it, and I do way you did, hold in down firmly with one finger.
> 
> Many of us have tried other TIMs and they always seem to give either not very good results, like you are seeing, or just a little bit of a temp drop. This has been going on for about a year now, and I am not just giving my advice. I am stating what virtually every single delidder here has found: you need to use a liquid metal TIM on the die.


Thanks, was a little scary at first because i really wasn't looking forward to dropping another $380.00 on a processor if i messed it up, but once the cap came off and i saw a perfectly undamaged die, i knew i was all good. But now that the cap is off







The fun can begin and the temps will gradually drop experimenting

I'm gonna try some MX4 before i order liquid metal online. Stuff i have been reading in the last 15-20 mins indicates that its the best alternative to it. I'm seeing almost identical temps right now with AS5 vs before i delidded etc. But i'm pretty sure that's cause of the cure time, so if i factor that in, i'm still only gonna see a 5C drop at best.

Now with that being said, anything is better than nothing when it comes to the ivy bridge it seems. So if i only see a 5-15c drop at best. I'll still be happy. Running IBT and seeing 90's instantly is lame.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Are the fins able to be bent by simply handling/touching the radiator? are they that weak on the h220 radiator???


hate to break it to you. all rads have fins that thin. even my alphacool makes for great heat transfer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Congrats on the successful delid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You probably used too much on the die, but even if you get it perfect you will not see much of a temp drop with it. Every single person, except one, who has delidded has only gotten a good temp drop by using a liquid metal TIM on the die like Pro or Ultra.
> 
> It is tricky to get the IHS to stay just where you want it when clamping it into the mobo. It took me several times before I got the hang of it, and I do way you did, hold in down firmly with one finger.
> 
> Many of us have tried other TIMs and they always seem to give either not very good results, like you are seeing, or just a little bit of a temp drop. This has been going on for about a year now, and I am not just giving my advice. I am stating what virtually every single delidder here has found: you need to use a liquid metal TIM on the die.


OR. and i do mean OR intel could just solder them.... like they should of.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hate to break it to you. all rads have fins that thin. even my alphacool makes for great heat transfer.
> OR. and i do mean OR intel could just solder them.... like they should of.


That's probably why liquid metal works so well, because its as close to flux soldering as humanly possible. Which is what the sandy bridges have


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Sounds like another DOA pump. Contact Swiftech for replacement.


NO.

Can anyone who is having the "CPU fan error" or the pump not running PLEASE BY PASS THE PWM SPLITTER!

I had the "CPU fan error" with my Swiftech h220 and thought the pump was dead from reading these forums.

Truth be told, I went back to check my connections and noticed the pins for the CPU FAN on the PWM splitter were "loose" and slipped out the white casing that lets them make contact with the motherboard.

I quickly unplugged and BYPASSED the pwm splitter and like magic, the COOLER BOOTED UP.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Are the fins able to be bent by simply handling/touching the radiator? are they that weak on the h220 radiator???


I guess so as I did handle it with caution


----------



## ez12a

fins are pretty easy to bend, but then again, a radiator is a delicate piece. Automotive radiator fins are just as delicate.


----------



## Autonomy

I'm installing my h220 tonight .. can I flip the fans upsidedown from the factory orientation so that its in exhaust mode through the top of my case ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> I'm installing my h220 tonight .. can I flip the fans upsidedown from the factory orientation so that its in exhaust mode through the top of my case ?


Yes.


----------



## Robbieladd

The largest Jeweler's screw driver from a typical 6 tool set will fit inside of the fan fastener holes. You might need a pair of pliers to apply enough torsion to the screwdriver to get the desired screw tension; I did so and all is well and good. cheers, Rob


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Thanks, was a little scary at first because i really wasn't looking forward to dropping another $380.00 on a processor if i messed it up, but once the cap came off and i saw a perfectly undamaged die, i knew i was all good. But now that the cap is off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fun can begin and the temps will gradually drop experimenting
> 
> I'm gonna try some MX4 before i order liquid metal online. Stuff i have been reading in the last 15-20 mins indicates that its the best alternative to it. I'm seeing almost identical temps right now with AS5 vs before i delidded etc. But i'm pretty sure that's cause of the cure time, so if i factor that in, i'm still only gonna see a 5C drop at best.
> 
> Now with that being said, anything is better than nothing when it comes to the ivy bridge it seems. So if i only see a 5-15c drop at best. I'll still be happy. Running IBT and seeing 90's instantly is lame.


Why don't you just use whats proven to work much better that what you want to use? It's like $15. Take peoples advice and do it properly right from the start.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> NO.
> 
> Can anyone who is having the "CPU fan error" or the pump not running PLEASE BY PASS THE PWM SPLITTER!
> 
> I had the "CPU fan error" with my Swiftech h220 and thought the pump was dead from reading these forums.
> 
> Truth be told, I went back to check my connections and noticed the pins for the CPU FAN on the PWM splitter were "loose" and slipped out the white casing that lets them make contact with the motherboard.
> 
> I quickly unplugged and BYPASSED the pwm splitter and like magic, the COOLER BOOTED UP.


+1, Didnt run into this myself but I highly doubt all these "DOAs" are the result of faulty pumps.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Are the fins able to be bent by simply handling/touching the radiator? are they that weak on the h220 radiator???


Yup very easily bent and just as easily fix with delicate pressure.


----------



## Tomasu82

I recently got a H220, and installed it a couple days ago. I've been having a similar issue others have been, the pump just shuts down and my FX-8320 reaches its HYST mark and the computer switches off. It tends to be ok when the cpu is idle, but if I load it up to 100% across all 4 modules, or all 8 threads/cores, the temps level out near 50c but after a few minutes the pump shuts down.

I just tried hooking the pump up to the cpu fan header directly, and checked for bent pins, as well as hooked up through the splitter. Everything looks fine, but it doesn't seem to want to start back up. I've noticed I have to wait a while before it wants to start working again. I assume its because it needs to cool down. The pump/block gets rather hot after it shuts down.

Are there any things I can try that I haven't?


----------



## TheEnergy

So I have some Noctua NF-F12 fans sitting around collecting dust. I really want to throw them on my H220 radiator, but this is the way the stock fans are installed on the H220:



The only way to get to the screw is to use a shaft small enough to get through the fan housing.

Can I please to those of you who have the h220 and successfully removed the stock fans what screw driver head you used? i.e. #0 or #1 etc..?

I don't want to use a small enough screw driver to get through, but then end up stripping that screw since it looks like a #2 to me.


----------



## Tomasu82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> So I have some Noctua NF-F12 fans sitting around collecting dust. I really want to throw them on my H220 radiator, but this is the way the stock fans are installed on the H220:
> 
> 
> 
> The only way to get to the screw is to use a shaft small enough to get through the fan housing.
> 
> Can I please to those of you who have the h220 and successfully removed the stock fans what screw driver head you used? i.e. #0 or #1 etc..?
> 
> I don't want to use a small enough screw driver to get through, but then end up stripping that screw since it looks like a #2 to me.


I couldn't find a skinny enough phillips head screwdriver, so I went with a 3mm flat head screwdriver. Just barely worked.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomasu82*
> 
> I couldn't find a skinny enough phillips head screwdriver, so I went with a 3mm flat head screwdriver. Just barely worked.


how the hell did they screw it In there and what screw driver did they use?

I wish the size was listed, I really don't feel like using something too small and stripping that screw and then have it be stuck.....


----------



## Tomasu82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> how the hell did they screw it In there and what screw driver did they use?
> 
> I wish the size was listed, I really don't feel like using something too small and stripping that screw and then have it be stuck.....


They are phillips (cross/star/x/whateveryouwanttocallit) head screws, a fairly large one, but I couldn't find the right size with a skinny enough shaft, so I found a flat head screwdriver that was wide enough to fit the short slot in the screws. As to how they got them in there, just a thin shafted phillips head screw bit.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yup very easily bent and just as easily fix with delicate pressure.


wouldn't it get weaker by bending it back & forth, like a piece of metal then eventually just break off?

AND are all the units supposed to ship with 100% perfect radiator fins?

I''m paranoid now and just looked at my radiator and noticed 1 bent fin- and I'm very delicate so now I don't know if there are always imperfections with the fins or it was me.

Now that I remember, even my corsair h80i had bent fins all over the place.


----------



## Autonomy

just got mine installed and sad to say 1st dimm slot looks almost unuseable from the hose crowding it out !!


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> just got mine installed and sad to say 1st dimm slot looks almost unuseable from the hose crowding it out !!


Then mount the H220 pump/block differently if you want to use the 1st DIMM slot.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> just got mine installed and sad to say 1st dimm slot looks almost unuseable from the hose crowding it out !!


you can rotate the hoses, there is no way it would block it, unless you have a very ****ty case with the fan mounts for the radiator very close toward the back of the case (motherboard tray)

good cases have the fan mounts toward front side window side panel, so it doesn't hit the mother board heatsinks or RAM heatsinks, i.e. fractal arc midi r2


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> So I have some Noctua NF-F12 fans sitting around collecting dust. I really want to throw them on my H220 radiator, but this is the way the stock fans are installed on the H220:
> 
> 
> 
> The only way to get to the screw is to use a shaft small enough to get through the fan housing.
> 
> Can I please to those of you who have the h220 and successfully removed the stock fans what screw driver head you used? i.e. #0 or #1 etc..?
> 
> I don't want to use a small enough screw driver to get through, but then end up stripping that screw since it looks like a #2 to me.


those work great !~

they make them with reversable heads ( one side flat one phillips )

pretty sure they are standard #2 phillips

you can google pocket screwdrivers. pretty sure ace hardware sells them.

and as to bending the fins back. no they wont break unless you keep doing it.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> those work great !~
> 
> they make them with reversable heads ( one side flat one phillips )
> 
> pretty sure they are standard #2 phillips
> 
> you can google pocket screwdrivers. pretty sure ace hardware sells them.
> 
> and as to bending the fins back. no they wont break unless you keep doing it.


Yeah I wouldn't bend the fins..... I'm OCD and that idea of bending the fins is just gross to me


----------



## TheGovernment

Just get these : 
They are $5 from any hardware store, wal-mart or any place like that and work perfectly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't bend the fins..... I'm OCD and that idea of bending the fins is just gross to me


umm why? they are just copper not like they hold millions of germs


----------



## Autonomy

I have the pump mounted as shown in the directions with the hoses at 9 oclock and 3 oclock . My mobo is a MSI MPower . So I can rotate the block so that the hoses are at 12 oclock and 6 oclock with no related performance issues ?


----------



## MerkageTurk

The government is right that is what I used to remove the fans


----------



## dansi

Interested to get this cooler. How will it perform against the TR Silverarrow on 3930k at 4.3ghz? Noise and temps?
My current SA keeps the chip cool linx -avx load at 75 degree on 26-28 degrees ambient with the 2x1200rpm stock fans. Silent and inconspicuous, about 30-32dba i guesstimate from 1m distance

But of course the SA is dull-ing due to age and dusty. I know it could just wash it but thinking of a re-haul.

How does one wash the H220 from the dust and lint btw?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Interested to get this cooler. How will it perform against the TR Silverarrow on 3930k at 4.3ghz? Noise and temps?
> My current SA keeps the chip cool linx -avx load at 75 degree on 26-28 degrees ambient with the 2x1200rpm stock fans. Silent and inconspicuous, about 30-32dba i guesstimate from 1m distance
> 
> But of course the SA is dull-ing due to age and dusty. I know it could just wash it but thinking of a re-haul.
> 
> How does one wash the H220 from the dust and lint btw?


Dust and lint shouldn't be any different than cleaning a PC your normal way, assuming you do it. When I clean mine, I use an electric blower since I have one for work. It blasts the dust right out of it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autonomy*
> 
> I have the pump mounted as shown in the directions with the hoses at 9 oclock and 3 oclock . My mobo is a MSI MPower . So I can rotate the block so that the hoses are at 12 oclock and 6 oclock with no related performance issues ?


Of course, hose direction means nothing.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Interested to get this cooler. How will it perform against the TR Silverarrow on 3930k at 4.3ghz? Noise and temps?
> My current SA keeps the chip cool linx -avx load at 75 degree on 26-28 degrees ambient with the 2x1200rpm stock fans. Silent and inconspicuous, about 30-32dba i guesstimate from 1m distance
> 
> But of course the SA is dull-ing due to age and dusty. I know it could just wash it but thinking of a re-haul.
> 
> How does one wash the H220 from the dust and lint btw?


My Silver Arrow is within 1-2C of the H220 (2 GT AP-15's) with a 5.0ghz overclock on my 2600k and is quite a bit quieter. You can't expand the Silver Arrow though which is where the draw of the H220 comes from.


----------



## Autonomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Of course, hose direction means nothing.


Turns out with my mobo two sticks of 4Gb memory populate the 2nd and 4th dimm slot so its not an issue , but , I may switch the orientation anyways so thanx for the input


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Final installation pic:
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09468_zpsdbb4de77.jpg.html
> 
> System is running like a dream. Unless I happen to receive a couple grand to blow on computer stuff so I can go with Titans under water, I'm done with this build. Now it's time to enjoy it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am exceptionally happy with my H220 in terms of performance, functionality, quality ans service


That is beautiful. What case is that?


----------



## savagepagan

I am seriously considering that Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige. Very nice cooler with fittings. It beats out Corsairs h110, the 140mm aio cooler.



http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/cooler-master-eisberg-prestige-240l-review/6/


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> That is beautiful. What case is that?


Silverstone Raven RV02.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I am seriously considering that Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige. Very nice cooler with fittings. It beats out Corsairs h110, the 140mm aio cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/cooler-master-eisberg-prestige-240l-review/6/


problem with the esiberg is that the fittings and tubing it comes with are not standard. You'll have to spend money to change all of that if you wanted to add anything to the system, adding to an already premium price. But i am interested to see eisberg custom loops.


----------



## ChrisB17

Question. Can you change out the tubing on this? To say clear tubing?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Question. Can you change out the tubing on this? To say clear tubing?


Yessir easily







.


----------



## Phelan

Question: anybody have any spare Helix fans they aren't planning on using?


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yessir easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Do you have one of these? If so do you like it? Is it reliable?


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Do you have one of these? If so do you like it? Is it reliable?


Yes its a pretty good cooler and has been running strong 24/7 with no problems for a week for me.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Do you have one of these? If so do you like it? Is it reliable?


Yes, yes, and yes







. You probably didn't notice that I'm the OP







.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know if I can continue using my 4 sticks of ram with this block/pump?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can continue using my 4 sticks of ram with this block/pump?


Sure, just rotate it 90* so the hoses are running North and South.


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> My Silver Arrow is within 1-2C of the H220 (2 GT AP-15's) with a 5.0ghz overclock on my 2600k and is quite a bit quieter. You can't expand the Silver Arrow though which is where the draw of the H220 comes from.


That is kind of disappointing if so....was expecting a 5-10C improvement on the same noise level.
Not too sure about expansion seeing as i will need to cut things up and drain/refill before leak test...even so adding a gpu may bring the cooling worse off than SA?

Still thinking of buying just because i read the build quality is solid.....how is the quality control though? They are now made in China? I guess all the available stock are the latest batch with improvement on the pump problem and air bubble issues?

tia!


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> That is kind of disappointing if so....was expecting a 5-10C improvement on the same noise level.
> Not too sure about expansion seeing as i will need to cut things up and drain/refill before leak test...even so adding a gpu may bring the cooling worse off than SA?
> 
> Still thinking of buying just because i read the build quality is solid.....how is the quality control though? They are now made in China? I guess all the available stock are the latest batch with improvement on the pump problem and air bubble issues?
> 
> tia!


It should be noted that my first two H220 pumps died which may or may not affect the performance. I can't really be certain about that until I get my third kit. Between the two kits, I probably did 7 or 8 mounts (due to pump troubleshooting) and the margin between the SA and the H220 was always fairly consistent in my case / environment.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Why don't you just use whats proven to work much better that what you want to use? It's like $15. Take peoples advice and do it properly right from the start.


That's what i'm choosing to do atm. I'm on my secondary pc right now waiting for it to come in :|, Makes me appreciate my primary rig a whole lot more lol


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sure, just rotate it 90* so the hoses are running North and South.


SO my omniscient O.P. when are the H320's to be had. It is just about that time. I have high ambients during summer since my pc is in the solarium. It is 2:15 pm and the 12K btu ac is running on high and it is still 89 Farenheit. With this situation my thinking is with a top mount of the H320 in my Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra super tower, I should run it on exhaust because of my high ambient. Does this make sense to you in my very special situation?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> SO my omniscient O.P. when are the H320's to be had. It is just about that time. I have high ambients during summer since my pc is in the solarium. It is 2:15 pm and the 12K btu ac is running on high and it is still 89 Farenheit. With this situation my thinking is with a top mount of the H320 in my Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra super tower, I should run it on exhaust because of my high ambient. Does this make sense to you in my very special situation?


Our H320 kits will be available shortly. I can't be any more precise than that at the moment. Sorry about that. With your GPU it might be best to have the radiator set as exhaust so that your GPU doesn't overheat. If you have anywhere to mount a bottom fan as an intake, I would consider doing that as well.


----------



## marc0053

Do you guys think these temps are normal on a H220. ASUS rampage extreme 4 and 3930k @ 4.8GHz (1.344V)?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Do you guys think these temps are normal on a H220. ASUS rampage extreme 4 and 3930k @ 4.8GHz (1.344V)?


Normal depends quite a bit on ambient.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our H320 kits will be available shortly. I can't be any more precise than that at the moment. Sorry about that. With your GPU it might be best to have the radiator set as exhaust so that your GPU doesn't overheat. If you have anywhere to mount a bottom fan as an intake, I would consider doing that as well.


Thanks Brian. I had already installed a Noctua 120mm on intake just below my motherboard tray right where
the cpu lies. I just purchased a second HD 7950 gpu that I will be crossfiring. It is coming in about 2-3 days. yes that exhaust seems tro be the best way to go.. Do you think it would be wise to buy a second set of 3 Helios fans to put on the other side of the radiator as well for push/pull?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thanks Brian. I had already installed a Noctua 120mm on intake just below my motherboard tray right where
> the cpu lies. I just purchased a second HD 7950 gpu that I will be crossfiring. It is coming in about 2-3 days. yes that exhaust seems tro be the best way to go.. Do you think it would be wise to buy a second set of 3 Helios fans to put on the other side of the radiator as well for push/pull?


With a triple fan radiator you should get a little bit of a performance increase by going to a push/pull configuration.


----------



## TheEnergy

I noticed the PWM splitter has 2 screw slots and came with 2 screws.

Where can these be mounted on a case? Anywhere on the case or???


----------



## marc0053

Any suggestions on the fan configuration inside my case to lower cpu temps?


----------



## Snyderman34

Got my H220 ordered and on the way! Probably will expand it with another rad and bring the 7970 into it later on


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I noticed the PWM splitter has 2 screw slots and came with 2 screws.
> 
> Where can these be mounted on a case? Anywhere on the case or???


You can mount it anywhere that your case has compatible holes, or you can drill a couple yourself to install it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Any suggestions on the fan configuration inside my case to lower cpu temps?


Your configuration is pretty much optimal as it is. The only thing that I might suggest would be going to a push/pull configuration on your radiator.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I noticed the PWM splitter has 2 screw slots and came with 2 screws.
> 
> Where can these be mounted on a case? Anywhere on the case or???


Best place I found was the side of the 5.25" ODD bay. push screw in and used the nut inside the drive bay to secure it.
Due to the drive bay position, there is more clearance from the side panel.


----------



## Deeya

Little update, got my package from Frozen CPU to add my 7970 to my H220 loop.



I told them to write a their best dirty joke on the inside flap of the box and this happed.


----------



## drnilly007

^ Wow that is super funny, maybe you can donate those gummi bears to [email protected] competition...or eat them!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Any suggestions on the fan configuration inside my case to lower cpu temps?


Not sure what that is in the bottom of your case but looks like you have fan mounts for the bottom, I suggest trying using that as another intake, might help temps a bit.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> ^ Wow that is super funny, maybe you can donate those gummi bears to [email protected] competition...or eat them!
> Not sure what that is in the bottom of your case but looks like you have fan mounts for the bottom, I suggest trying using that as another intake, might help temps a bit.


It is a removable 2.5in bay cage. But yes i will try placing a fan there.
Thanks


----------



## drnilly007

No not that I know what a HDD cage is, lol, but right next to it covering the bottom grill looks like some sort of black box.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> That is kind of disappointing if so....was expecting a 5-10C improvement on the same noise level.
> Not too sure about expansion seeing as i will need to cut things up and drain/refill before leak test...even so adding a gpu may bring the cooling worse off than SA?
> 
> Still thinking of buying just because i read the build quality is solid.....how is the quality control though? They are now made in China? I guess all the available stock are the latest batch with improvement on the pump problem and air bubble issues?
> 
> tia!





i woudl say you are hard pressed to find anything in watercooling not made in asia although i think AC is made in germany


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Any suggestions on the fan configuration inside my case to lower cpu temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> It is a removable 2.5in bay cage. But yes i will try placing a fan there.
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> No not that I know what a HDD cage is, lol, but right next to it covering the bottom grill looks like some sort of black box.





he is right you can put 2x120mm fans there you can ask for helps in the stryker/trooper club in my sig too if oyu have any more qs sometimes having the top fans / rads as exhausts helps too though

too many intakes and not enough exhausts is not good, although there is a lot of mesh on the stryker i have found a balanced approach works best

also static pressure helps the most on rads guys not cfm.
lastly to those looking to go push pull make sure to put like fans with like fans ( same fan in push pull ) or you will be fighting yourself


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> No not that I know what a HDD cage is, lol, but right next to it covering the bottom grill looks like some sort of black box.


I think you mean the 2.5in ssd tray?


----------



## Mega Man

ah yes 4 screw on the bottom but it is removable


----------



## Gabrielzm

As promised here is the picture of the h220 (third unit) within the nanoxia DS 1. Now I can become an official member of the club. Cables are already a mess since I took all the hard drives already for the new system. Notice the titan still with the blower on it which was soon to be replaced by the beautiful komodo I just got it. radiator was already outside the case but was install up top.



Since it took a while to replace and troubleshoot my previous two units of the h220 (both of them with the sporadic zero rpm during stress problem) I decided after the second rma that I would go full custom loop. So the h220 is going to my work PC (after I figure why the hell is making so much noise... probably bubbles still trapped there).

and here we go with the new build including a mcp655 pmw with ek x-res top at its core. The system is almost ready just waiting for the second vga to add to it.

Quite happy so far. About 12 degrees lower that the h220 on the cpu and vga droped to 40 degrees C under load. Dead silent pump and system with the pump barely audible at up to 50% rpm. Flow rate around 115 l/h in silent mode and about 250 l/h in full rpm (about 1 GPM).

here are some pictures during the build:







it is my first system incursion in custom liquid cooling (besides the h220 and a corsair h80 in the work PC)









While I have been building PCs for more than 15 years now I never got my feet wet before. Part of reason to it was the "fear factor" one that the h220 break it in my case since I had to troubleshoot two units before RMA them. So in way this entry product (h220) might also have this side effect in many folks out there due to its expand-ability. I would like to express my gratitude to many of you around this thread for very sound advice and particularly to Martin (







) whom the service to the community in its reviews I rate as outstanding. The pump guide and reviews of several blocks and radiators there were instrumental to me to get a grasp of the parts I need it.

Cheers


----------



## TheEnergy

For anyone that used noctua NF-f12 fans in place of the stock Helix fans, can you please tell me what screws you used?

I tried using the stock helix fans screwed that were used, but they are almost seemingly too small in length and I get get them to go through the noctua fan and make contact with the radiator?

PLEASE TELL ME


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For anyone that used noctua NF-f12 fans in place of the stock Helix fans, can you please tell me what screws you used?
> 
> I tried using the stock helix fans screwed that were used, but they are almost seemingly too small in length and I get get them to go through the noctua fan and make contact with the radiator?
> 
> PLEASE TELL ME


I used the same small screws that came with the H220, with no issues on the NF-P12.
In your case you Most likely have to remove the rubber corners, as it takes up some thickness.


----------



## Mega Man

my swiftech rad is either m3 or 3.5 idr but if you have an ace hardware close you can pick up both. may have to cut them to size so grab 1 or 2 nuts as well to rethread them.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For anyone that used noctua NF-f12 fans in place of the stock Helix fans, can you please tell me what screws you used?
> 
> I tried using the stock helix fans screwed that were used, but they are almost seemingly too small in length and I get get them to go through the noctua fan and make contact with the radiator?
> 
> PLEASE TELL ME


I use long screws since I go through the fans and use the rad to tighten it to the top of my case. They are 6-32 x 1 1/4


----------



## Mega Man

be careful dont puncture the chambers !~


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I used the same small screws that came with the H220, with no issues on the NF-P12.
> In your case you Most likely have to remove the rubber corners, as it takes up some thickness.


Right on the money.

I am bit pissed that all the videos show the noctua NF-F12 fans on the swiftech and they never explain they are actually kind of a pain to install.

YES, you have to remove the rubber corners or the screw will NOT make contact with the radiator.

Furthermore, the Noctua NF-F12 fans, for some ungodly reason, were F***ing impossible to align!

I literally had to screw them in with a star pattern and unscrew them about 8 times to get the aligned! I would screw 2 screws in and get them aligned, but the 3rd would NOT align!

Not sure what was about with that!

And obviously, you guys are going to need to use one of those "precision screwdriver" sets and use a pliers/wire cutter grip to torque it or it won't turn....



To get the last screw in the fan aligning, I had to really kind push down on the screw with elbow grease and torque it so it could catch the thread....

...the fans simply did NOT align PERFECTLY and that was annoying.... oh well... just a heads up to anyone who plans to install these FANS ...

I guess this is just part of the life of modding....

How easy it is to mess up the threading off the Swiftech radiator?

I had thought I messed it up at one point, because the screw I was using to screw in the 1 side of the Noctua NF-F12 would screw it a little bit then pop out if I turned it more.

I finally gave it a little elbow grease and pushed down a bit harder THEN Torqued it and I guess it caught the threading because it went in deeper and seems solid.

Sheesh, what a pain...


----------



## Mega Man

advice my boss gave me... best advice i ever have received "if your forcing it your doing it wrong"


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I use long screws since I go through the fans and use the rad to tighten it to the top of my case. They are 6-32 x 1 1/4


the only problem is if you plan to use push/pull you will need those screws for the bottom fans


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> advice my boss gave me... best advice i ever have received "if your forcing it your doing it wrong"


I beg to differ. I'm OCD and one of the most meticulous and anal people.

Go and try to install the Noctua NF-F12 right now and see what happens.

First all all ,you will have to take the rubber corners off to even get it to fit.

and it's not going to align completey perfectly.

I didn't FORCE anything, I definitely had to put a little elbow grease and push in a bit to get it to thread.

It wasn't completely effortless but I definitely was NOT shoving a screw in there in torqueing.


----------



## Mega Man

1 i dont own noctura
2 i dont have a h220
3 i still bet i could do it without forcing it


----------



## AlDyer

Hello!

I'm back and I'm hungry for more. I want to watercool my 7950 and I already have the H220. What do you suggest I get, since I don't want to compromise too much on GPU temps. My case is of course the 600T. So what I am looking for is a waterblock (maybe this one? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/EK-FC7950-ACETAL) for the 7950 and an extra rad (but which one???) will be needed too. Some more tubing as well. I can either go with the tubing that comes with the H220 or use something more awesome looking (too expensive imo). Also need fittings(again which ones?). And finally do I need a res and if I do, which one? This would be my first expansion, but I think I will be good with your guidance, thanks!

EDIT: I will wait for later, considering the whole thing would cost over the price of another H220... But still I would love the advice..

EDIT2: What about just the waterblock and getting a rad later? How bad would it be to temps??


----------



## Mega Man

i think you would be limiting you self too much temp wise you could do it but i recommend adding at least another 2x120 rad your choice on the brand ( i would go alphacool, but that is personal preference )


----------



## AlDyer

Ok, well a 240 mm rad is not that expensive and I don't wanna compromise. I will be doing this probably some time next month. Oh and any advice on fitting and tubing since I am clueless about those. I can find a rad and a nice block and I know that the coolant being used is Hydrx PM 2, but if someone could help with these?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> the only problem is if you plan to use push/pull you will need those screws for the bottom fans


You can use the little screws for one set and long for the other. Or just go buy more long like I did.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Ok, well a 240 mm rad is not that expensive and I don't wanna compromise. I will be doing this probably some time next month. Oh and any advice on fitting and tubing since I am clueless about those. I can find a rad and a nice block and I know that the coolant being used is Hydrx PM 2, but if someone could help with these?


The tubing is 3/8 by 5/8 and you can use either compression or barb fittings of the same dimensions.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'm back and I'm hungry for more. I want to watercool my 7950 and I already have the H220. What do you suggest I get, since I don't want to compromise too much on GPU temps. My case is of course the 600T. So what I am looking for is a waterblock (maybe this one? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/EK-FC7950-ACETAL) for the 7950 and an extra rad (but which one???) will be needed too. Some more tubing as well. I can either go with the tubing that comes with the H220 or use something more awesome looking (too expensive imo). Also need fittings(again which ones?). And finally do I need a res and if I do, which one? This would be my first expansion, but I think I will be good with your guidance, thanks!
> 
> EDIT: I will wait for later, considering the whole thing would cost over the price of another H220... But still I would love the advice..
> 
> EDIT2: What about just the waterblock and getting a rad later? How bad would it be to temps??


Avoid EK blocks. Heatkillers, Swiftech. Make sure your 7950 is a reference model.
Also you will now need a new case. 600T lacks support for dual 240, unless you do some modding to the front and lose the HDD cage.


----------



## justanoldman

I have two NF-F12 fans on one of my H220 units, and on my other rig I have the H220 plus a Swiftech 360 and 140. So on that one I have 5 NF-F12 fans and one NF-A14. I will not say they are easy to install with the rubber corners but I did it without too much trouble and I did not remove any of the rubber corners. However, I used the long included screws, not the short one.


----------



## AlDyer

It is already modded but link to a better block in Finland please. Also compression or barb fittings? Also what tube color is that or is there a name for it? I would the tubing to have a unified color.

EDIT: And yes it is a reference PCB. I am 95% sure, but can anyone verify (just google this: HD 7950 11196-19-20G)

Also I was able to install a MK-26 on that if that matters. Why don't waterblocks fit non reference PCB's?


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Avoid EK blocks. Heatkillers, Swiftech. Make sure your 7950 is a reference model.
> Also you will now need a new case. 600T lacks support for dual 240, unless you do some modding to the front and lose the HDD cage.


Care to share what is wrong with EK blocks?


----------



## justanoldman

I am not going to talk down EK because I know there are people here who like them, but I had two bad experiences with their gpu blocks in row. Then I switched to Heatkiller and couldn’t be happier with them.


----------



## AlDyer

Ok I just made sure and the EK one is compatible at least with my card, since it is listed in the compatibility thingy on this website: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856246

It is called Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 (11196-00) on that website.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I am not going to talk down EK because I know there are people here who like them, but I had two bad experiences with their gpu blocks in row. Then I switched to Heatkiller and couldn't be happier with them.


Ok well aren't Heatkiller blocks a bit more expensive? I can try to look for them, but Finland is limited with these kind of things. Might have to wait to get one from abroad and that is really not preferable..

EDIT: No Heatkiller blocks in Finland so that is a no-go... Any suggestions

This for the tubing? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/LETKU-14

I am still clueless about what fittings to use other than the size but I guess this is fine: http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/LIITIN-PUNI-177

Do I need to buy clamps?


----------



## jderbs

Is this all I'll need to add two 780s in SLI to my loop? I'm getting the tubing and coolant directly from swiftech.


----------



## AlDyer

Actaully can someone put together all I need? I would appreciate it +REP for the one the best one









Also try to make it one shop only. Best possible would be from Finland, this shop for example: jimms.fi
If not Finland then EU. The Swiftech Komodo block would be nice too, but only if it is sold in EU, since it would cost ridiculous amounts of money otherwise.

Maybe I can get everything at Bacata since that is Swiftech's RMA site for EU


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Is this all I'll need to add two 780s in SLI to my loop? I'm getting the tubing and coolant directly from swiftech.


That looks like everything that you should need, except for the fans for the radiator and maybe some elbow fittings. Elbow fittings help to tidy up the loop so that you don't have any long or excessive curves. It will also depend on how you want your loop to look.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Avoid EK blocks. Heatkillers, Swiftech. Make sure your 7950 is a reference model.
> Also you will now need a new case. 600T lacks support for dual 240, unless you do some modding to the front and lose the HDD cage.
> 
> 
> 
> Care to share what is wrong with EK blocks?
Click to expand...

With the ones I had, some started to form some kind of rust within, others after long use the channels started to erode.
After we went with heatkillers, everything was fine.

Just the quality from EK is just not upto par. Compared to Heatkiller, XSPC, Swiftech.
Same reason I wont touch EK Rads and CPU block. Had similar issues with them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Actaully can someone put together all I need? I would appreciate it +REP for the one the best one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also try to make it one shop only. Best possible would be from Finland, this shop for example: jimms.fi
> If not Finland then EU. The Swiftech Komodo block would be nice too, but only if it is sold in EU, since it would cost ridiculous amounts of money otherwise.
> 
> Maybe I can get everything at Bacata since that is Swiftech's RMA site for EU


Have you tried highflow.nl in the Netherlands? They usually have a pretty good stock of water cooling gear. It looks like they have Komodos in stock too.


----------



## AlDyer

I think I will order from highflow then, but is there any special type of fitting I should be looking for?

Also I need 4 fittings, right?

How many clamps?

Aaaaanndd Where exactly can I get HydrX PM 2 coolant?

Any good rad suggestions? This maybe? http://highflow.nl/radiatoren/2-x-120mm-240/swiftech-mcr220-qp-k-240-radiator.html

FFS this is what happens when I start to watercool...

Shopping in Europe sucks balls. Everything is more expensive and nothing can be acquired.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Ok I will check them and maybe amazon would work too?
> 
> I think I will order from highflow then, but is there any special type of fitting I should be looking for?
> 
> Also I need 4 fittings, right?


Right, just make sure that they're 3/8 by 5/8. You can use either compression fittings or barb fittings. I think compression will look nicer and be a bit more secure. That's especially true of our Lok-Seal fittings because you can use a wrench to tighten them. You might also need elbow fittings as I had suggested to jderbs. It's a matter of looks more than anything. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hey, where's my +Rep?


----------



## AlDyer

You got your rep, now answer the rest of my questions







Actually, please someone else choose the fittings. This is overwhelming me. Just get me compression fittings and whatever clamps I need I have my pump and radiator figured out


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the ones I had, some started to form some kind of rust within, others after long use the channels started to erode.
> After we went with heatkillers, everything was fine.
> 
> Just the quality from EK is just not upto par. Compared to Heatkiller, XSPC, Swiftech.
> Same reason I wont touch EK Rads and CPU block. Had similar issues with them.


This sounds like you had issues with multiple metals and or you had some of their bad nickle plated blocks. How long ago was this problems you have had, and what kind of blocks did you and "others" have issues with? Blanket EK is bad statements are not helpful, as they are purely slanderous. I'm not trying act like an EK fanboi, I only have 2 products of theirs, but you can't say all of their stuff is bad if one product or process was flawed, at one point in time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> You got your rep, now answer the rest of my questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, please someone else choose the fittings. This is overwhelming me. Just get me compression fittings and whatever clamps I need I have my pump and radiator figured out


Just get four of these from HighFlow.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Sorry not be slanderous towards EK. I used there accetel and nickel blocks. All had the same problems. Can't give you models, don't have listed on me. I had to fight tooth and nail to even get replacement, to go as far to blame me for the corrosion. While it was there full kits that was used. I'm sorry, but I will stand by my decision to avoid EK. Sorry you do not like it.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## AlDyer

Thanks again BramSLI1

Do I need a res? What about the coolant? And finally do I also need 4x clamps? Someone else than BramSLI1 are allowed to answer too, just saying









Remember Hydrx PM 2 is not available at least at this shop.

I chose this tubing, opinions? http://highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-10mm-id/feser-tube-uv-highflow-3-8-id-1-2-od-black.html


----------



## AlDyer

This is what I have gathered now what should I improve? This is very very expensive











EDIT: Just click on original to see it properly


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Thanks again BramSLI1
> 
> Do I need a res? What about the coolant? And finally do I also need 4x clamps? Someone else than BramSLI1 are allowed to answer too, just saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember Hydrx PM 2 is not available at least at this shop.
> 
> I chose this tubing, opinions? http://highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-10mm-id/feser-tube-uv-highflow-3-8-id-1-2-od-black.html


Compression fittings don't need clamps and as far as a reservoir goes, your H220 already has one so you won't need to add another. Being that HydrX PM 2 is pretty much unavailable everywhere at the moment, you can just use distilled water in the meantime until some comes back into stock.


----------



## AlDyer

Ok thanks









You are definitely the best answerer

Oh now I landed at a "mere" 254 €


----------



## AlDyer

Any experiences from people who have expanded? Is it worth it? Should I just get this or is it a waste of money. My HD 7950 is cooled by a Prolimatech MK-26 atm.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Sorry not be slanderous towards EK. I used there accetel and nickel blocks. All had the same problems. Can't give you models, don't have listed on me. I had to fight tooth and nail to even get replacement, to go as far to blame me for the corrosion. While it was there full kits that was used. I'm sorry, but I will stand by my decision to avoid EK. Sorry you do not like it.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


That is a much more helpful post, and I heard horror stories from those with EK's nickel plated blocks, and trying to get replacements / warranty coverage for them. Not all EK products were bad though, but mentioning the issue and difficulty of warranty replacement would probably be better than saying "drugs are bad, mmmkay."

I don't dislike your decision to purchase elsewhere, your money your choice. What I dislike is spreading sentiments with incomplete information, which will be parotted later by less educated members because someone said something about this somewhere that I think I read one time.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I understand what you're saying. Took a big lose with EK. When compared with Swiftech, you can't compare. The scale difference is staggering. Same goes with XSPC, they helped me without issues. Everyone has different experience with any company.
After EK issues, I stop doing Watercooling, was too frustrating.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Robbieladd

I've got Noctua Nf-F12's on my H220 that aligned perfectly and installed without problems using 6-32 x 1 1/4" machine screws. In an application such as this you really should place screws alternately from corner to corner, allowing but a few threads of contact until all four screws are in place, then tighten alternatively. Same sort of procedure as used for tightening down the pump/block. This will allow for some play making alignment nearly automatic.

Keep the wind at your back....


----------



## TheGovernment

Be careful what kind of tubing you buy with the swiftech 3/8-5/8 loc-seal fittings. I've got 10 of them sitting here that are useless since they won't fit the 4 different types of tubing I have here. I though they were supposed to fit xspc tubing so I bought 2 different kinds of high flex stuff. The tubing is to fat and you can just barely get the fittings to catch the thread and within a half turn they will start cutting into the tubing and are extremely hard to turn. Same goes for my promochill advanced lrt. it's a no go as well. They are super cheap feeling compared to the bitspower or koolance onces I have here that fit all the tubing.
If you compare the swiftech ones to the koolance or bitspower ones, the gap between the barb and the outer casing is quite a bit smaller. At the time, I never wanted to smash anything with a hammer more i my life as I'm still waiting for my new fittings to arrive hahaha


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Be careful what kind of tubing you buy with the swiftech 3/8-5/8 loc-seal fittings. I've got 10 of them sitting here that are useless since they won't fit the 4 different types of tubing I have here. I though they were supposed to fit xspc tubing so I bought 2 different kinds of high flex stuff. The tubing is to fat and you can just barely get the fittings to catch the thread and within a half turn they will start cutting into the tubing and are extremely hard to turn. Same goes for my promochill advanced lrt. it's a no go as well. They are super cheap feeling compared to the bitspower or koolance onces I have here that fit all the tubing.
> If you compare the swiftech ones to the koolance or bitspower ones, the gap between the barb and the outer casing is quite a bit smaller. At the time, I never wanted to smash anything with a hammer more i my life as I'm still waiting for my new fittings to arrive hahaha


I'm sorry that you had so much trouble with these fittings. I use our Lok-Seal fittings myself and I wouldn't use another brand if you paid me to. I've used the others and they just don't feel as secure as the Lok-Seal do. Have you tried heating up the ends of the tubing before installing the fittings on it? This usually helps to get it on and stretch the tubing out a bit.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Be careful what kind of tubing you buy with the swiftech 3/8-5/8 loc-seal fittings. I've got 10 of them sitting here that are useless since they won't fit the 4 different types of tubing I have here. I though they were supposed to fit xspc tubing so I bought 2 different kinds of high flex stuff. The tubing is to fat and you can just barely get the fittings to catch the thread and within a half turn they will start cutting into the tubing and are extremely hard to turn. Same goes for my promochill advanced lrt. it's a no go as well. They are super cheap feeling compared to the bitspower or koolance onces I have here that fit all the tubing.
> If you compare the swiftech ones to the koolance or bitspower ones, the gap between the barb and the outer casing is quite a bit smaller. At the time, I never wanted to smash anything with a hammer more i my life as I'm still waiting for my new fittings to arrive hahaha


Mmm, I'm afraid it's not that.. I just measure a LokSeal 5/8 compression fitting against a 5/8 BP I had laying around..

LokSeal 5/8 Collet ID: 16.7mm
BP Collet ID: 16.5mm - So the BP collet is actually smaller than ours.

LokSeal 5/8 Barb OD: 12.65mm
BP Barb OD: 12.55mm

LokSeal barb body OD: 12.00mm
BP: 12.2mm

So:

LokSeal Gap between Collet and Barb OD: (16.7 - 12.65) / 2 = 2mm
BP Gap between Collet and Barb OD: (16.5 - 12.55) / 2= 1.98mm

Let me know if ours measurements concur.. You do need a caliper


----------



## TheGovernment

It's not the front gap, it's the back lip on the collet that is tight to the tubing. The lip is so tight against the tubing because the tubing is now stretched onto the barb. I'm not saying they don't work with any tubing but the xspc flex, promochill flex and feser active uv are so tight, if you ever got the tubing on there and the collet properly tightened,, it's would start to cut the tubing on the back. You can tighten it with wrenches if you have it out of the case with all those tubing's but how the heck are you gonna get the barbs attached to your gear with the tubing already on?


----------



## TheGovernment

What ever the reason the tubing doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. It's not like I wanted to spend another $70 on fittings ( yes I know I could have tried some other tubing but the stuff I have is the exact color I wanted).... It also could be the barb on the loc-seals pushes the tubing up farther because the barb is slightly bigger, making it prematurely tight on the back? I dunno. I mean it's not as if I'm the first guy that's had problems getting sometubing to fit on these..... I got these fittings from frozen cpu and shipping them back is not worth it as the shipping it's half of what I paid, since I'm in Canada lol.

Also the koolance fittings I have are .5mm bigger on the front and back of the collet, I just measured with a tapemeasure. My bitspower ones are on my res in my pc so I can't measure it but I'll take your word for it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> It's not the front gap, it's the back lip on the collet that is tight to the tubing. The lip is so tight against the tubing because the tubing is now stretched onto the barb. I'm not saying they don't work with any tubing but the xspc flex, promochill flex and feser active uv are so tight, if you ever got the tubing on there and the collet properly tightened,, it's would start to cut the tubing on the back. You can tighten it with wrenches if you have it out of the case with all those tubing's but how the heck are you gonna get the barbs attached to your gear with the tubing already on?


What you call the lip is what I am calling Collet ID.. so we are talking about the exact same thing..
I measured, and measurements can't be argued.. unless you have different measurements of course ;-)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> What ever the reason the tubing doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. It's not like I wanted to spend another $70 on fittings ( yes I know I could have tried some other tubing but the stuff I have is the exact color I wanted).... It also could be the barb on the loc-seals pushes the tubing up farther because the barb is slightly bigger, making it prematurely tight on the back? I dunno. I mean it's not as if I'm the first guy that's had problems getting sometubing to fit on these..... I got these fittings from frozen cpu and shipping them back is not worth it as the shipping it's half of what I paid, since I'm in Canada lol.
> 
> Also the koolance fittings I have are .5mm bigger on the front and back of the collet, I just measured with a tapemeasure. My bitspower ones are on my res in my pc so I can't measure it but I'll take your word for it.


I haven't measured the Koolance.. so IDK.

If you purchased the fittings from us direct, and they are apparently unused, you are welcome to send back. [EDIT] sorry just saw you bought from FCPU

One more detail: you really need a caliper to measure these things.. tape measure not precise enough..particularly for OD's and ID's (round bodies)


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I haven't measured the Koolance.. so IDK.
> 
> If you purchased the fittings from us direct, and they are apparently unused, you are welcome to send back. [EDIT] sorry just saw you bought from FCPU
> 
> One more detail: you really need a caliper to measure these things.. tape measure not precise enough..particularly for OD's and ID's (round bodies)


I used a drafting compass and opened it up inside the circle then measured on a drafting tape measure. It's accurate to .1mm but the caliper would be ideal.
One fitting is used as I was wrenching on it but all the the others are new in their plastic cases. I'd keep 2 as I can still use them for my drain plugs but I'd have 8 to deal if anyone is interested.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I think you mean the 2.5in ssd tray?


Oh ok thats what that is...


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For anyone that used noctua NF-f12 fans in place of the stock Helix fans, can you please tell me what screws you used?
> 
> I tried using the stock helix fans screwed that were used, but they are almost seemingly too small in length and I get get them to go through the noctua fan and make contact with the radiator?
> 
> PLEASE TELL ME


Didnt you get the long screws that come with the h220 for screwing in more fans?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Didnt you get the long screws that come with the h220 for screwing in more fans?


Yeah but I wanted to save the long screws for when I add 2 more fans on the bottom of the radatior for push/pull.

Logically, then, the only screws I have that I could use would be the ones on the helix.

I ended up figuring it out and managed to get the Noctua Fans installed, if you read in the past you can see my posts.

I had to remove the brown rubber on the corners however, and aligning them was a bit of a pain in the ass but everything is screwed in a good to go.


----------



## TheEnergy

So I was bypassing the PWM splitter because mine was dead from swiftech.

Everything was going fine.

They finally sent me a replacement PWM splitter and I plugged everything into it (CPU on CHA 1 and 2 radiator fans on the other 2 pins slots).

The only weird thing is my CPU temps are fluctuating pretty rapidly and I KEEP hearing the Noctua NF-F12 fans rev'ving up, almost like the RPM is slowing down then increasing in a cyclic matter....

It's really ANNOYING!

Should the fans be getting 100% power and going at 100% via the PWM splitter? or is it cycling the RPM based on temperature?

Should the settings be changed via BIOS or is their software to control this from swiftech ?


----------



## TheEnergy

goddamit. something is messed up with my CPU now. I know it.

The temps are idle are fluctuating for no reason from 30's to 50's to 30's then to even 60's without even touching anything or moving my mouse.

I noticed some type of scratch on the swiftech cooler and even the CPU , which I have no idea how it got there since I use a lint -free cloth and am very gentle and I didn't even slide the CPU block on top.

All I did was put the noctua fans and then re-did the TIMM and re-seated.

Oh, and I put the PWM splitter.

Is there any chance this could be the PWM splitter not giving power, thus the temp spikes? I'm freaked about by the scratch on teh CPU I saw, and not sure what it is..

I guess I'll remove this PWM splitter first, since the first one I had was garbage and I bet this was is corrupted too


----------



## TheEnergy

OK, someone needs to explain to me how I ran without the PWM splitter @ 1.262 voltage for 4.6GHz with AIDA64 for 2 hours and no errors.

temps were around 70's C with occasional spikes to lower 80's on 1 or 2 cores.

NOW, I just installed the replacement PWM splitter and I crashed 5 times running at the same voltage/speed and cores were spiking to 90's!

I thought it was so weird that I could hear the fans revving down and up ,so I figured it may be a faulty PWM splitter AGAIN....

removed it, now running aida64 in 70's C range with occasion spikes to lower 80'S C!

How? Could the PWM splitter be the cause of all these problems? Is it not giving enough energy to my CPU or something and thus the high temperatures?

something is up here... hmmm...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> OK, someone needs to explain to me how I ran without the PWM splitter @ 1.262 voltage for 4.6GHz with AIDA64 for 2 hours and no errors.
> 
> temps were around 70's C with occasional spikes to lower 80's on 1 or 2 cores.
> 
> NOW, I just installed the replacement PWM splitter and I crashed 5 times running at the same voltage/speed and cores were spiking to 90's!
> 
> I thought it was so weird that I could hear the fans revving down and up ,so I figured it may be a faulty PWM splitter AGAIN....
> 
> removed it, now running aida64 in 70's C range with occasion spikes to lower 80'S C!
> 
> How? Could the PWM splitter be the cause of all these problems? Is it not giving enough energy to my CPU or something and thus the high temperatures?
> 
> something is up here... hmmm...


I tested your splitter before I sent it, as I do all of these before shipping them out. I would suggest that you look at the pins in the connector to see if they are all seated properly. If they are then I really don't know what could be causing your issue. Also check your Molex connection. That's the one with the black and yellow wire. Let me know what you find.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> So I was bypassing the PWM splitter because mine was dead from swiftech.
> 
> Everything was going fine.
> 
> They finally sent me a replacement PWM splitter and I plugged everything into it (CPU on CHA 1 and 2 radiator fans on the other 2 pins slots).
> 
> The only weird thing is my CPU temps are fluctuating pretty rapidly and I KEEP hearing the Noctua NF-F12 fans rev'ving up, almost like the RPM is slowing down then increasing in a cyclic matter....
> 
> It's really ANNOYING!
> 
> Should the fans be getting 100% power and going at 100% via the PWM splitter? or is it cycling the RPM based on temperature?
> 
> Should the settings be changed via BIOS or is their software to control this from swiftech ?


You should be able to control your pump and fans via your BIOS. Are you sure that you're fans are PWM controlled? This could be the reason for them acting funny.


----------



## ucantescape1992

I have one of these coming in the mail, just had a few questions.

What are you not allowed to do/ what would void the warranty?

I plan on shortening the lines to make it more manageable and cleaner in my R4. If I save the liquid in a sterile container, is it safe to re-use it? Should I filter it before I re-use it?

Big thanks to anyone who can help me with these questions.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I have one of these coming in the mail, just had a few questions.
> 
> What are you not allowed to do/ what would void the warranty?
> 
> I plan on shortening the lines to make it more manageable and cleaner in my R4. If I save the liquid in a sterile container, is it safe to re-use it? Should I filter it before I re-use it?
> 
> Big thanks to anyone who can help me with these questions.


You're allowed to do what ever you want, thats what makes it a great unit! I'm not sure swiftechs stance on what happens if it leaks on your gear, so do a leak test before you put it back in your case when you shorten the tubes.
It's perfectly fine to use the liquid again. I strained mine with a coffee filter and reused it. I also topped it up with some distilled water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I have one of these coming in the mail, just had a few questions.
> 
> What are you not allowed to do/ what would void the warranty?
> 
> I plan on shortening the lines to make it more manageable and cleaner in my R4. If I save the liquid in a sterile container, is it safe to re-use it? Should I filter it before I re-use it?
> 
> Big thanks to anyone who can help me with these questions.


As far as the warranty goes, I'll have to get back to you on that. I need to get some clarification on it tomorrow when I get into work.

You can re-use the fluid. We don't recommend it because we can't guarantee the condition of the container that it's put into. If you have a sterile container though then there shouldn't be an issue. You shouldn't have to filter it either. Remind me tomorrow to find out what would void the warranty on this kit.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Thanks for the replies, I'll be sure to remind you.

One last question: does Swiftech sell the hose clamps used on the H220? Or is there any way to get more?

Edit: It would be nice to know what happens if another component is damaged due to a leak.


----------



## gdubc

Heads up that the h220 is 129.99 on sale at sidewinder.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Avoid EK blocks. Heatkillers, Swiftech. Make sure your 7950 is a reference model.
> Also you will now need a new case. 600T lacks support for dual 240, unless you do some modding to the front and lose the HDD cage.


he can also get 2x 120mm rads. i dunno that case though sorry . fitment is on you guys lol but i dont reccomend less then 2 x120 per peice. you can do it. but temps wont really drop that much .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry that you had so much trouble with these fittings. *I use our Lok-Seal fittings myself and I wouldn't use another brand if you paid me to*. I've used the others and they just don't feel as secure as the Lok-Seal do. Have you tried heating up the ends of the tubing before installing the fittings on it? This usually helps to get it on and stretch the tubing out a bit.


ill +1 that


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, I'll be sure to remind you.
> 
> One last question: does Swiftech sell the hose clamps used on the H220? Or is there any way to get more?
> 
> Edit: It would be nice to know what happens if another component is damaged due to a leak.


OK, basically any kind of customer miss-use or negligence. For example, running the kit without fluid. This will damage the pump and therefore void the warranty.

Being that this isn't a sealed kit we don't cover damage due to leaks. This kit can be expanded and that's what sets it apart from the other AIO kits. Let me clarify this by saying that just like all other manufacturers, damage to 3rd party components, are handled on a case by case basis. I hope this helps to clarify our warranty policy and coverage of this product.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, basically any kind of customer miss-use or negligence. For example, running the kit without fluid. This will damage the pump and therefore void the warranty.
> 
> Being that this isn't a sealed kit we don't cover damage due to leaks. This kit can be expanded and that's what sets it apart from the other AIO kits. I hope this helps to clarify our warranty policy and coverage of this product.


What if the leak is caused by a manufacturing defect in your product?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> What if the leak is caused by a manufacturing defect in your product?


Here's our full warranty policy and you'll find that this is the same as all manufacturers of custom water cooling products.

DISCLAIMER:

Swiftech® assumes no liability expressed or implied for any tort or damage(s) occurring as a result of using Swiftech cooling products, either due to mistake or omission on Swiftech's part, or due to failure or defect in the Swiftech cooling products. In addition, Swiftech assumes no liability, expressed or implied for the use of its products, and more specifically for any and all damages caused by the use of such products to any other device in a personal computer, whether due to product defect, failure, leak, electrical short, and or electro-magnetic emissions.

REPRESENTATIONS:

All representations made with respect to product technical specifications, performance, upgradability, compatibility, system integration, pricing, delivery time, warranty, any and all information related but not limited to products, Company, service, and policies are subject to change without notice. Swiftech assumes no liability expressed or implied for any tort or damage(s) occurring as a result of such changes.
WARRANTY:

Except as noted below, all Swiftech products are guaranteed for 12 months from the date of delivery to the final user against defects in materials or workmanship. During this period, they will be repaired or have parts replaced provided that: (I) the product is returned to the agent from which it was purchased; (II) the product has been purchased by the end user and not used for hire purposes; (III) the product has not been misused, handled carelessly, or other than in accordance with any instructions provided with respect to its use. This guarantee does not confer rights other than those expressly set out above and does not cover any claims for consequential loss or damage. This guarantee is offered as an extra benefit and does not affect your statutory rights as a consumer.
ADDITIONAL WARRANTY INFORMATION:

Pumps are covered by a 2 year limited warranty; all other terms above do apply.
H220 kits are covered by a 3 year (parts & labor) limited warranty; all other terms above do apply.


----------



## mercs213

I know Corsair will reimburse you if one of their closed loop liquid coolers fails and damages your components. A guy over at eVGA forums had his malfunction and it ruined some components and said he contacted Corsair and they were going to reimburse him.

Forum post: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1961042


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercs213*
> 
> I know Corsair will reimburse you if one of their closed loop liquid coolers fails and damages your components. A guy over at eVGA forums had his malfunction and it ruined some components and said he contacted Corsair and they were going to reimburse him.
> 
> Forum post: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1961042


Most damages are usually caused by customer negligence like pouring fluid beyond the capacity of the reservoir or doing it in an unsafe manner. But I have said on this forum before if the mishap is solely the result of manufacturing defect it should be the full responsibility of the company to make good on all damages. I believe this is upheld by legal precedent. The problem is if you go to small claim court , you'll need an expert witness or hope that the company won't contest your case. I would think it would be cheaper for the company to pay for most damages rather than have to pay a lawyer or have somebody taker the time to answer a court case. But they know most customers won't fight them because it is aggravating,,time consuming, and potentially costly if an expert witness is required. So as with all legal fights under capitalism, the corporation has the big edge over the consumer plaintiff.


----------



## asus3571

i got a question if you dont mind? i just got a h220 and want to perform a test on it before i install. my question is how do i test it outside the case. i realize oyou can jump the 24pin on a psu but im not wanting to remove my psu from my mobo to do it. can i just plug the pump into a 3 pin fan header to make sure the pump and all is working correctly before installing. thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> i got a question if you dont mind? i just got a h220 and want to perform a test on it before i install. my question is how do i test it outside the case. i realize oyou can jump the 24pin on a psu but im not wanting to remove my psu from my mobo to do it. can i just plug the pump into a 3 pin fan header to make sure the pump and all is working correctly before installing. thanks.


What I would do instead is plug it into a Molex connector via the PWM splitter. This way you can check to make sure everything is working and ensure that it's getting a stable power supply via the Molex connector.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercs213*
> 
> I know Corsair will reimburse you if one of their closed loop liquid coolers fails and damages your components. A guy over at eVGA forums had his malfunction and it ruined some components and said he contacted Corsair and they were going to reimburse him.
> 
> Forum post: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1961042


corsair's coolers and swiftech's h220 are not the same, until Corsair releases a cooler that is able to be opened up by the user. I can almost guarantee you if Corsair had a "h220" like product, they would not cover leak damage.

If swiftech offered corsair's "level" of warranty, what is preventing someone with the h220 to experience a leak while tampering with the system, and then assembling it and claiming they never took it apart?

with the h220, the onus is on the user to test the system prior to installation.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> corsair's coolers and swiftech's h220 are not the same, until Corsair releases a cooler that is able to be opened up by the user. I can almost guarantee you if Corsair had a "h220" like product, they would not cover leak damage.
> 
> what is preventing someone with the h220 to experience a leak while tampering with the system, and then assembling it and claiming they never took it apart?
> 
> with the h220, the onus is on the user to test the system prior to installation.


As I stated in my amended post though we will look at 3rd party hardware damage on a case by case basis, if the damage is in fact due to manufacturer defect. This is no different than what Corsair are currently doing.


----------



## asus3571

i just got a h220 at mc next to it was an h100i for 89 doolars i though for a minute and said i really want the h220 so i got 2 of them i read your waurantee and i gotta say im a little disaapointed that swiftech is so strict its a little scary. should i even install it?


----------



## asus3571

thankyou very much im vert impressed with how you guys are answering these so many questions. as this is such a highly wanted product . so hard to find. i applaud swiftechs dedication to improve their products and make sure we know they are there to help us if all goes well with this cooler i promise you will dominate the aio market like the nh-d14 did for the air market putting two in this weekend. one in a haf x and 2700k and the other in a 600t with a 4770k cant wait thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> corsair's coolers and swiftech's h220 are not the same, until Corsair releases a cooler that is able to be opened up by the user. I can almost guarantee you if Corsair had a "h220" like product, they would not cover leak damage.
> 
> If swiftech offered corsair's "level" of warranty, what is preventing someone with the h220 to experience a leak while tampering with the system, and then assembling it and claiming they never took it apart?
> 
> with the h220, the onus is on the user to test the system prior to installation.


To the best of my knowledge, other companies consider these issues on a case by case basis, and so do we. The fact that one (or even a few) customers got their gear replaced does not mean that the warranty includes damage to other components.


----------



## asus3571

completly understand i just tested mine and let it run for a few no leaks couldnt even hear the thing tubes were full of fluid so im 100%confident that i made the right choice i do understand swiftechs position on warranting this cooler. makes sense i take it apart and bork it why should you pay for my goof i'll post pics and temp results when the builds are done YEAH


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> completly understand i just tested mine and let it run for a few no leaks couldnt even hear the thing tubes were full of fluid so im 100%confident that i made the right choice i do understand swiftechs position on warranting this cooler. makes sense i take it apart and bork it why should you pay for my goof i'll post pics and temp results when the builds are done YEAH


I'm glad to hear that you're pleased with this kit. Please let me know if you have any issues or questions. We're here to help.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> So I was bypassing the PWM splitter because mine was dead from swiftech.
> 
> Everything was going fine.
> 
> They finally sent me a replacement PWM splitter and I plugged everything into it (CPU on CHA 1 and 2 radiator fans on the other 2 pins slots).
> 
> The only weird thing is my CPU temps are fluctuating pretty rapidly and I KEEP hearing the Noctua NF-F12 fans rev'ving up, almost like the RPM is slowing down then increasing in a cyclic matter....
> 
> It's really ANNOYING!
> 
> Should the fans be getting 100% power and going at 100% via the PWM splitter? or is it cycling the RPM based on temperature?
> 
> Should the settings be changed via BIOS or is their software to control this from swiftech ?


You have an ASUS board so go to the ASUS website for your motherboard and download the AI Suite, it has an app called Fan Expert which will help you to control all of your fan headers within windows. You can also check the rpm speed at the same time, 1600-2200 rpm is the sweet spot the H220 as any higher and the fans are loud and temps dont really change much.
I use it with my H220 and is cooling my IVY processor very easily. 3770k 4.7 1.37v 86c max while folding during this heatwave in CT with no AC and in a closed room all day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercs213*
> 
> I know Corsair will reimburse you if one of their closed loop liquid coolers fails and damages your components. A guy over at eVGA forums had his malfunction and it ruined some components and said he contacted Corsair and they were going to reimburse him.
> 
> Forum post: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1961042


They have changed the way they reimburse people and they have set limits on each and any component that is damaged. ie $100 for motherboard or $150 for video card, not sure of exact limits but I remember thinking that it wouldn't really cover many people components fully.

Saying that they are going to reimburse him really isnt true.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> You have an ASUS board so go to the ASUS website for your motherboard and download the AI Suite, it has an app called Fan Expert which will help you to control all of your fan headers within windows. You can also check the rpm speed at the same time, 1600-2200 rpm is the sweet spot the H220 as any higher and the fans are loud and temps dont really change much.
> I use it with my H220 and is cooling my IVY processor very easily. 3770k 4.7 1.37v 86c max while folding during this heatwave in CT with no AC and in a closed room all day.
> They have changed the way they reimburse people and they have set limits on each and any component that is damaged. ie $100 for motherboard or $150 for video card, not sure of exact limits but I remember thinking that it wouldn't really cover many people components fully.
> 
> Saying that they are going to reimburse him really isnt true.


fyi aisuite is extremely buggy for alot of people. i would recommend speedfan or one of the many other softwares out that can control your fans, for temps and volts i recommend hwinfo64


----------



## mylifeforiron

Hey guys
This is my first post on this website, as I recently became interested in watercooling my build. I am interested in the H220 because of the ability to expand the loop.
I have a 3570K and 7870, and am wondering if the H220 is the best performing CLC on the market right now (and how it would compare to a budget open loop system). I want to go all out on an open loop, but I feel it would be a waste of money at this point with my hardware.
I've been reading comments on this thread about how hard it is to fit noctua fans (which I've read are the best performing for the H220). Has this been a major issue?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ucantescape1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mylifeforiron*
> 
> Hey guys
> This is my first post on this website, as I recently became interested in watercooling my build. I am interested in the H220 because of the ability to expand the loop.
> I have a 3570K and 7870, and am wondering if the H220 is the best performing CLC on the market right now (and how it would compare to a budget open loop system). I want to go all out on an open loop, but I feel it would be a waste of money at this point with my hardware.
> I've been reading comments on this thread about how hard it is to fit noctua fans (which I've read are the best performing for the H220). Has this been a major issue?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


It out performs all other closed loop coolers. I'd estimate a custom loop with a 240 radiator, pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, ect. to cost close to double what the H220 does. For fans, I would recommend either the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or AP-14 over the NF-F12's.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> corsair's coolers and swiftech's h220 are not the same, until Corsair releases a cooler that is able to be opened up by the user. I can almost guarantee you if Corsair had a "h220" like product, they would not cover leak damage.
> 
> If swiftech offered corsair's "level" of warranty, what is preventing someone with the h220 to experience a leak while tampering with the system, and then assembling it and claiming they never took it apart?
> 
> with the h220, the onus is on the user to test the system prior to installation.


Put tamper proof tube lockers on there, include the special tool to take them off and have the warranty read that once they have been removed, the warranty for leakage is gone. There are lots of different ways you could implement something to that effect.


----------



## xarot

Swiftech should add instructions into the user manual to leak test the kit for some amount of time before installing it even if you don't modify it at all. Since leaks from manufacturing defects are not covered up by anyone but the user.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi aisuite is extremely buggy for alot of people. i would recommend speedfan or one of the many other softwares out that can control your fans, for temps and volts i recommend hwinfo64


Not at all buggy for me, perhaps they fixed those bugs. Only thing lately is the mobo temp is reading 0 which doesnt really matter to me and the fact that it tells you the socket temp and not cpu temp other than that it has worked out great.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mylifeforiron*
> 
> Hey guys
> This is my first post on this website, as I recently became interested in watercooling my build. I am interested in the H220 because of the ability to expand the loop.
> I have a 3570K and 7870, and am wondering if the H220 is the best performing CLC on the market right now (and how it would compare to a budget open loop system). I want to go all out on an open loop, but I feel it would be a waste of money at this point with my hardware.
> I've been reading comments on this thread about how hard it is to fit noctua fans (which I've read are the best performing for the H220). Has this been a major issue?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


noctuas are awesome fans but most ppl say gentle typhoons are the best for rads
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> It out performs all other closed loop coolers. I'd estimate a custom loop with a 240 radiator, pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, ect. to cost close to double what the H220 does. For fans, I would recommend either the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or AP-14 over the NF-F12's.


----------



## Exolaris

Just installed my new H220 yesterday. Temps don't seem to be anything special compared to my old Noctua NH-D14, maybe a few degrees difference (although I'm only in a push intake config with stock fans at the moment). The pump makes a whining noise once I hit 1600 RPMs or so... Should I assume that that's just trapped air, or is the pump meant to be a bit noisy at higher RPMs?


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi aisuite is extremely buggy for alot of people. i would recommend speedfan or one of the many other softwares out that can control your fans, for temps and volts i recommend hwinfo64


+1 for not buggy, new Z87 Sabertooth, 4770K, Thermal Radar fan control in AI suite 3 running things good atm.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Not at all buggy for me, perhaps they fixed those bugs. Only thing lately is the mobo temp is reading 0 which doesnt really matter to me and the fact that it tells you the socket temp and not cpu temp other than that it has worked out great.


Mine does the same. A maximus v formula and often ai suite tells me my mobo is -34°. Restart and it works right again.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> It out performs all other closed loop coolers. I'd estimate a custom loop with a 240 radiator, pump, reservoir, tubing, fittings, ect. to cost close to double what the H220 does. For fans, I would recommend either the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or AP-14 over the NF-F12's.


This isn't really true. The Kraken X60 and Corsair H110 have both outperformed the H220 in a handful of the reviews I read, but those are 280 rads. They are in fact closed loop coolers though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> This isn't really true. The Kraken X60 and Corsair H110 have both outperformed the H220 in a handful of the reviews I read, but those are 280 rads. They are in fact closed loop coolers though.


I had the H110, temps are better with the H220.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I had the H110, temps are better with the H220.


I had the kraken, not only are temps better with the h220 but the kraken fans are some of the loudest fans I've had (at all rpm).


----------



## gdubc

I have the smaller kraken on 3770k and really can't complain....except for the fan which I got rid of. Finding good pwm 140mm fans with good pressure isnt easy though. I plan on switching to the h220 thats sitting in the box staring at me right now, I just want to run some tests so I can compare better (for fun mostly) before I switch and I never seem to have the time!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the smaller kraken on 3770k and really can't complain....except for the fan which I got rid of. Finding good pwm 140mm fans with good pressure isnt easy though. I plan on switching to the h220 thats sitting in the box staring at me right now, I just want to run some tests so I can compare better (for fun mostly) before I switch and I never seem to have the time!


I ran the BGears B-Blaster 140mm on my H110, nice fans.


----------



## Caos

amazon buy my h220 .. I arrived here on Saturday to Paraguay - Latin America, I've been trying for 4 days out of the case, today install process. I did this because I read the leakage issue as I am far not if the warranty would cover me. I hope everything continues to work well. h80i who died had a LED and therefore switch to h220. I love the look


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> Just installed my new H220 yesterday. Temps don't seem to be anything special compared to my old Noctua NH-D14, maybe a few degrees difference (although I'm only in a push intake config with stock fans at the moment). The pump makes a whining noise once I hit 1600 RPMs or so... Should I assume that that's just trapped air, or is the pump meant to be a bit noisy at higher RPMs?


Temps are based on ambient for watercooling. There could be trapped air in there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Mine does the same. A maximus v formula and often ai suite tells me my mobo is -34°. Restart and it works right again.


AISuite do not tell you core temps, just socket temps for the CPU, which most times is not accurate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi aisuite is extremely buggy for alot of people. i would recommend speedfan or one of the many other softwares out that can control your fans, for temps and volts i recommend hwinfo64


Not buggy at all when I used it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Swiftech should add instructions into the user manual to leak test the kit for some amount of time before installing it even if you don't modify it at all. Since leaks from manufacturing defects are not covered up by anyone but the user.


Instructions are not needed. You dont see that in watercooling you buy. H220 is just the same. Leaks from defects are covered, and already stated from a case by case situation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mylifeforiron*
> 
> Hey guys
> This is my first post on this website, as I recently became interested in watercooling my build. I am interested in the H220 because of the ability to expand the loop.
> I have a 3570K and 7870, and am wondering if the H220 is the best performing CLC on the market right now (and how it would compare to a budget open loop system). I want to go all out on an open loop, but I feel it would be a waste of money at this point with my hardware.
> I've been reading comments on this thread about how hard it is to fit noctua fans (which I've read are the best performing for the H220). Has this been a major issue?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


H220 is not a CLC. CLC is the cooling Corsair, Antec, Zalman, Thermaltake (Which is made by Coolit and Asetek)
H220 is AIO, pre-built watercooling kit.
As for fans, the stock is more that capable to handle the rad. The difference from Noctua is small for the higher cost. Same goes for the AP-15/AP-14.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> This isn't really true. The Kraken X60 and Corsair H110 have both outperformed the H220 in a handful of the reviews I read, but those are 280 rads. They are in fact closed loop coolers though.


The stock fans on those are much faster than H220 fans. Its needed due to the higher FPI. Handful reviews are ok, but most lack proper testing. I tend to ignore them, as most is missing ambient, intake or exhaust settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the smaller kraken on 3770k and really can't complain....except for the fan which I got rid of. Finding good pwm 140mm fans with good pressure isnt easy though. I plan on switching to the h220 thats sitting in the box staring at me right now, I just want to run some tests so I can compare better (for fun mostly) before I switch and I never seem to have the time!


H220 will outperform the single 140mm Kraken.


----------



## Fleat

Here are a couple of reviews I was referencing:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6716/closing-the-loop-ii-new-liquid-coolers-from-corsair-and-swiftech/4

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html

I would consider them fairly reliable sources and they both include ambients, but results can vary wildly based on your particular setup. With that said, the H220 has a slightly different target market than those products.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I ran the BGears B-Blaster 140mm on my H110, nice fans.


Bgears are what I have now but they're not PWM so they run at full speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> AISuite do not tell you core temps, just socket temps for the CPU, which most times is not accurate.
> Not buggy at all when I used it.
> 
> H220 will outperform the single 140mm Kraken.


Ai suite gives you a mb temp reading and that negative 34 degrees seems kind of buggy to me. And obviously the H220 is going to outperform the single Kraken, that's not the question, the question is to see by how much. And how much higher I can overclock. Like I said its just for fun playing around.


----------



## Snyderman34

Got my H220 in and installed today. I think I'm gonna shorten the tubes a bit at some point:



The tubes aren't as close to the fan as they look, but still. It's a pretty decent improvement over my old H60. Prime blend was sitting mid 70s or so. H220:



I'm pretty happy with it. No leaks, cooler, and a ton quieter


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Got my H220 in and installed today. I think I'm gonna shorten the tubes a bit at some point:
> 
> 
> 
> The tubes aren't as close to the fan as they look, but still. It's a pretty decent improvement over my old H60. Prime blend was sitting mid 70s or so. H220:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty happy with it. No leaks, cooler, and a ton quieter


You should consider flipping the H220 so you can make use of the reservoir to trap air.


----------



## pcfoo

Got my H220 installed last night on my 3930K rig...managed to fit it push-pull with a couple of corsair SP120 silent on the top of my CM 690 II Adv.
Took some time to figure out, but fits without mods, with lower fans touching the VRM heatsink on the top of my P9X79 Pro. Lower fans had to be the SP120s that are slightly smaller in diameter/width and have a different shape than the included fans.Upper fans went into the top shroud just fine.

I wasn't that impressed to be honnest as I was running a Silver Arrow cooler before it, so I got 4-5oC drop while folding, being in the 75ish region now and 4.6GHz @ 1.38V (CPU-Z reading).
Run a quick 4.8GHz test for an hour or so @ 1.4V and I would hit 83oC within seconds. Did not run any prime95 or w/e went straight to folding, then reversed to 4.6 to let it run overnight.

The power draw diference between 1.38 & 1.4V is in the region of 45-50W out of the wall, probably pushing the H220 out of its limits with the thin rad, even with push-pull fans. Disabling Qfan completely and running fans and pump all-out got me the same result, maybe it went there a few seconds later, but it was much noisier.

I don't know if I should just return/sell it and get an open loop, or practice with adding another rad which I can probably fit @ bottom of my 690 II...


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> Just installed my new H220 yesterday. Temps don't seem to be anything special compared to my old Noctua NH-D14, maybe a few degrees difference (although I'm only in a push intake config with stock fans at the moment). The pump makes a whining noise once I hit 1600 RPMs or so... Should I assume that that's just trapped air, or is the pump meant to be a bit noisy at higher RPMs?


I was thinking about getting the h220 i have a nh D14 i guess I'll just stick with this bad boy...


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> This isn't really true. The Kraken X60 and Corsair H110 have both outperformed the H220 in a handful of the reviews I read, but those are 280 rads. They are in fact closed loop coolers though.


The reviews that use the same setups on each test machine and have a history of reliability give the Swiftech a thumbs up for performance better than Kraken and better than H100i and H100i. You have a larger radiator with an H110i , it isn't even a fair comparison, but still the H220 triumphs. So my friend what you said is NOT really true. I pays to investigate before you speak. One persons experience is not a global view and knowing the reviewers methodology is important. Some reviewers have anything but a scientific approach to testing. Some are simply shills for a particular manufacturer that gives them a lot of freebies and may even advertise heavily on their web site. Be careful before you rush to judgement.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Got my H220 installed last night on my 3930K rig...managed to fit it push-pull with a couple of corsair SP120 silent on the top of my CM 690 II Adv.
> Took some time to figure out, but fits without mods, with lower fans touching the VRM heatsink on the top of my P9X79 Pro. Lower fans had to be the SP120s that are slightly smaller in diameter/width and have a different shape than the included fans.Upper fans went into the top shroud just fine.
> 
> I wasn't that impressed to be honnest as I was running a Silver Arrow cooler before it, so I got 4-5oC drop while folding, being in the 75ish region now and 4.6GHz @ 1.38V (CPU-Z reading).
> Run a quick 4.8GHz test for an hour or so @ 1.4V and I would hit 83oC within seconds. Did not run any prime95 or w/e went straight to folding, then reversed to 4.6 to let it run overnight.
> 
> The power draw diference between 1.38 & 1.4V is in the region of 45-50W out of the wall, probably pushing the H220 out of its limits with the thin rad, even with push-pull fans. Disabling Qfan completely and running fans and pump all-out got me the same result, maybe it went there a few seconds later, but it was much noisier.
> 
> I don't know if I should just return/sell it and get an open loop, or practice with adding another rad which I can probably fit @ bottom of my 690 II...


Sounds like with your needs you needed an H320 with a 360mm radiator. A 240-mm radiator for such intensive constant use is borderline inadequate. I don't think you will do any better on a Kraken, a Corsair or anything else in its size class.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The reviews that use the same setups on each test machine and have a history of reliability give the Swiftech a thumbs up for performance better than Kraken and better than H100i and H100i. You have a larger radiator with an H110i , it isn't even a fair comparison, but still the H220 triumphs. So my friend what you said is NOT really true. I pays to investigate before you speak. One persons experience is not a global view and knowing the reviewers methodology is important. Some reviewers have anything but a scientific approach to testing. Some are simply shills for a particular manufacturer that gives them a lot of freebies and may even advertise heavily on their web site. Be careful before you rush to judgement.


Wow, way to jump to conclusions. I said a handful of reviews showed that, not all. I also posted after that with links to two hardware websites that many people consider great resources. Again, I also did state that the competitors I mentioned are in fact 280 which gives them a slight competitive advantage.

I did extensive research before and after my purchase and usage of multiple H220's. The H220 performs quite well especially if you consider noise level (assuming you have a quiet pump), but it isn't the end all be all of water-cooling. Other options exist that are worthy of consideration if you don't plan to expand the loop. Please try to be slightly more impartial in your responses. It helps to promote a beneficial discussion that makes forums like this a great resource for research.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the smaller kraken on 3770k and really can't complain....except for the fan which I got rid of. Finding good pwm 140mm fans with good pressure isnt easy though. I plan on switching to the h220 thats sitting in the box staring at me right now, I just want to run some tests so I can compare better (for fun mostly) before I switch and I never seem to have the time!


Definitely post your results


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Wow, way to jump to conclusions. I said a handful of reviews showed that, not all. I also posted after that with links to two hardware websites that many people consider great resources. Again, I also did state that the competitors I mentioned are in fact 280 which gives them a slight competitive advantage.
> 
> I did extensive research before and after my purchase and usage of multiple H220's. The H220 performs quite well especially if you consider noise level (assuming you have a quiet pump), but it isn't the end all be all of water-cooling. Other options exist that are worthy of consideration if you don't plan to expand the loop. Please try to be slightly more impartial in your responses. It helps to promote a beneficial discussion that makes forums like this a great resource for research.


Martins labs did exhaustive reviews on all these systems. His technique is scientific. He concluded the H220 was heads above the rest. He is one of the most professional experts in water cooling, that's what his website is all about. Not some generalist, he is a specialist. I am anything but subjective about this. Your implication was the H220 was not the best of the AIO coolers. You are wrong , and not objective. It's like the kettle calling the pot black. Now you backtrack on your original claims and say I am prejudiced. My interest are three. Getting the best performance in a liquid cooler for under $200. Getting the best quality build for that money. Getting the best customer service when I have issues. In all three areas Swiftech is numero uno. I have inverstigated and have nothing to fetter my judgement other than what is objectively correct. I remember a song from the early 60's called the Great Pretender. I am staying the course.


----------



## Fleat

Martins lab is a truly great resource, and I follow his work closely but you need to broaden your research. One persons result is not as valuable as twenty different results where you can draw your own conclusions. It doesn't matter how scientific that process the one person follows is. This is why large companies R&D is done in house and often validated by several other sources. A collection of testing is always more useful.


----------



## pcfoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Sounds like with your needs you needed an H320 with a 360mm radiator. A 240-mm radiator for such intensive constant use is borderline inadequate. I don't think you will do any better on a Kraken, a Corsair or anything else in its size class.


Well, I knew I was "pushing" it, but I was trying to avoid having to go through case changes (you can do 2x 240 in CM 690 II but not a 360) and a hefty open loop expense.

A quick calculation gave me almost 2x the price of a H220 for a decent XSPC Raystorm with 2x 240 Rads (an RS 240 and an RX 240), plus I would be having issues mounting the whole deal tiddly etc.
The H220 got in pretty fast, and looks clean and the such, but I really don't see the benefits from switching my hi-end air cooler.

I knew I would not be "sub-zero" with a 320+ W heat load (factoring in PSU efficiency, that's what the CPU alone is pulling), but I did not expect it to be that close to the Silver Arrow, especially with push pull (haven tried just with the stock fans).
Today is a pretty hot day in CA, and @ 100% load & 4.6GHz the CPU peaked @ 82oC (hottest core, 77oC coolest core), or around 49oC DT. Clearly out of what the poor H220 is designed for.

Question is:
* sell it straight out and stick with my SA which more or less is the same - at least for s2011 @ those voltages
* get an open loop with a 360 rad (+ new case, 540D anyone? perhaps die in the process when the better half sees the new tower) or 2x 240mm rads to stick in the 690 II
* add a 240mm rad to expand the H220...

ohh choices choices


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, I knew I was "pushing" it, but I was trying to avoid having to go through case changes (you can do 2x 240 in CM 690 II but not a 360) and a hefty open loop expense.
> 
> A quick calculation gave me almost 2x the price of a H220 for a decent XSPC Raystorm with 2x 240 Rads (an RS 240 and an RX 240), plus I would be having issues mounting the whole deal tiddly etc.
> The H220 got in pretty fast, and looks clean and the such, but I really don't see the benefits from switching my hi-end air cooler.
> 
> I knew I would not be "sub-zero" with a 320+ W heat load (factoring in PSU efficiency, that's what the CPU alone is pulling), but I did not expect it to be that close to the Silver Arrow, especially with push pull (haven tried just with the stock fans).
> Today is a pretty hot day in CA, and @ 100% load & 4.6GHz the CPU peaked @ 82oC (hottest core, 77oC coolest core), or around 49oC DT. Clearly out of what the poor H220 is designed for.
> 
> Question is:
> * sell it straight out and stick with my SA which more or less is the same - at least for s2011 @ those voltages
> * get an open loop with a 360 rad (+ new case, 540D anyone? perhaps die in the process when the better half sees the new tower) or 2x 240mm rads to stick in the 690 II
> * add a 240mm rad to expand the H220...
> 
> ohh choices choices


If you do decide to sell, I may be interested in purchasing it from you.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Does anyone know if there have been any revisions to the H220 yet?

Microcenter got them in (finally) and Ive been thinking about picking one up and paying the $10 or whatever for their replacement plan. If I have any issues I can just go to the store and get a new one and not have to mess with shipping, RMA, lengthy waits, and swapping back to a different cooler. Im wondering about the revisions because I would imagine that Microcenter would have some of the early batch that was not revised, if there were revisions of course.


----------



## pcfoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> If you do decide to sell, I may be interested in purchasing it from you.


Well, I'm sure it won't stick that long if I do, but being a quite large and heavy ( 8lb ) package will make it more suitable for local pickup / meeting.
Unfortunately FrozenCPU won't accept returns for refunds on WC items


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, I knew I was "pushing" it, but I was trying to avoid having to go through case changes (you can do 2x 240 in CM 690 II but not a 360) and a hefty open loop expense.
> 
> A quick calculation gave me almost 2x the price of a H220 for a decent XSPC Raystorm with 2x 240 Rads (an RS 240 and an RX 240), plus I would be having issues mounting the whole deal tiddly etc.
> The H220 got in pretty fast, and looks clean and the such, but I really don't see the benefits from switching my hi-end air cooler.
> 
> I knew I would not be "sub-zero" with a 320+ W heat load (factoring in PSU efficiency, that's what the CPU alone is pulling), but I did not expect it to be that close to the Silver Arrow, especially with push pull (haven tried just with the stock fans).
> Today is a pretty hot day in CA, and @ 100% load & 4.6GHz the CPU peaked @ 82oC (hottest core, 77oC coolest core), or around 49oC DT. Clearly out of what the poor H220 is designed for.
> 
> Question is:
> * sell it straight out and stick with my SA which more or less is the same - at least for s2011 @ those voltages
> * get an open loop with a 360 rad (+ new case, 540D anyone? perhaps die in the process when the better half sees the new tower) or 2x 240mm rads to stick in the 690 II
> * add a 240mm rad to expand the H220...
> 
> ohh choices choices


I have the exact same case and have a 2nd 240mm rad shipping in on Friday, but am waiting until I find a nice 770 4gb card so I can buy a waterblock for it and oc the crap out of it. My galaxy 680 4gb is a custom pcb so I am looking to get rid of it.

But anyways you can also add a 120mm rad to the rear fan spot which I was thinking of doing too to keep the loop real small but found a used 240 for cheap and went with it.


----------



## Skullwipe

Back after a bit of a break, 300 messaged to read through...not sure I'm going to!

Does anyone know if the AP-15's can be modded for PWM control like the AP-31's? Side note: Finding reviews on PWM controlled radiator fans is like pulling your hair out.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Does anyone know if there have been any revisions to the H220 yet?
> 
> Microcenter got them in (finally) and Ive been thinking about picking one up and paying the $10 or whatever for their replacement plan. If I have any issues I can just go to the store and get a new one and not have to mess with shipping, RMA, lengthy waits, and swapping back to a different cooler. Im wondering about the revisions because I would imagine that Microcenter would have some of the early batch that was not revised, if there were revisions of course.


I don't think there were any physical revisions to the unit. the main 2 categories are the original first batch that wasnt checked as much as the later ones. and well, the later ones that were checked. The only unit revision that comes off the top of my head that may or may not happen is changing the pwn splitter from molex to sata, which was talked about on the early stages of the unit but hasn't went anywhere as of yet.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Back after a bit of a break, 300 messaged to read through...not sure I'm going to!
> 
> Does anyone know if the AP-15's can be modded for PWM control like the AP-31's? Side note: Finding reviews on PWM controlled radiator fans is like pulling your hair out.


the original AP15 dont have a 4th connector on it. There is this post here of the PWM Ap15.
D1225C12B5ZP-40 http://www.overclock.net/t/1364863/scythe-gentle-typhoon-ap-15-with-native-pwm-capability-d1225c12b5zp-40/0_50
I'm using the NF-P12 on my H220. I like the fans, due to no PWM tick noise at any speeds.


----------



## TheEnergy

Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:





They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.

How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.

Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.

Please refer to this thread by me:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Does anyone know if there have been any revisions to the H220 yet?
> 
> Microcenter got them in (finally) and Ive been thinking about picking one up and paying the $10 or whatever for their replacement plan. If I have any issues I can just go to the store and get a new one and not have to mess with shipping, RMA, lengthy waits, and swapping back to a different cooler. Im wondering about the revisions because I would imagine that Microcenter would have some of the early batch that was not revised, if there were revisions of course.


I got mine from MC in April, no issues what so ever.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:


I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?


STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.

from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.

but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),

so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.
> 
> from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.
> 
> but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),
> 
> so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.


the only odd thing is, if you fliipped the cpu block over, the mark shouldnt be on the right* side if the mark on the cpu is on the left. it should be on the right, so it technically should not be in the same location, but supposed to be mirrored logically.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> You should consider flipping the H220 so you can make use of the reservoir to trap air.


That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, I knew I was "pushing" it, but I was trying to avoid having to go through case changes (you can do 2x 240 in CM 690 II but not a 360) and a hefty open loop expense.
> 
> A quick calculation gave me almost 2x the price of a H220 for a decent XSPC Raystorm with 2x 240 Rads (an RS 240 and an RX 240), plus I would be having issues mounting the whole deal tiddly etc.
> The H220 got in pretty fast, and looks clean and the such, but I really don't see the benefits from switching my hi-end air cooler.
> 
> I knew I would not be "sub-zero" with a 320+ W heat load (factoring in PSU efficiency, that's what the CPU alone is pulling), but I did not expect it to be that close to the Silver Arrow, *especially with push pull* (haven tried just with the stock fans).
> Today is a pretty hot day in CA, and @ 100% load & 4.6GHz the CPU peaked @ 82oC (hottest core, 77oC coolest core), or around 49oC DT. Clearly out of what the poor H220 is designed for.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Question is:
> * sell it straight out and stick with my SA which more or less is the same - at least for s2011 @ those voltages
> * get an open loop with a 360 rad (+ new case, 540D anyone? perhaps die in the process when the better half sees the new tower) or 2x 240mm rads to stick in the 690 II
> * add a 240mm rad to expand the H220...
> 
> ohh choices choices


to everyone expecting push pull to move mountains. hate to break it to you. with the exception of the 60+mm thick rads ( and even with them ) push pull does not make a world of difference, with a good set of rad fans ( high static pressure ) i think people think more is better. i am here to tell you it is incorrect. you may.... and i do mean may see a 1-2c difference in push pull.... but i doubt it. i would recommend just getting a few extra rads though .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.
> 
> How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.
> 
> Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.
> 
> Please refer to this thread by me:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)


it is designed to have the fans mounted on the rad then you can mount it to your case.


----------



## Turt1e

Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleat*
> 
> Martins lab is a truly great resource, and I follow his work closely but you need to broaden your research. One persons result is not as valuable as twenty different results where you can draw your own conclusions. It doesn't matter how scientific that process the one person follows is. This is why large companies R&D is done in house and often validated by several other sources. A collection of testing is always more useful.


Idid not solely rely on Martins Lab. . And 20 different sources mean absolutely nothing if they are amateurish and do not set parameters to be exact for all test machines, so you can flail your arms , but it is all banter without substance. It would be far easier to just admit that you were subjective when you made your remarks about performance against other all in ones. Since you backtracked once already, bite the bullet and concede.'If that is too much for a dainty ego I understand. The matter is closed as far as I am concerned.


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.
> 
> How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.
> 
> Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.
> 
> Please refer to this thread by me:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor


this can happen if there was something inside tim or something fall just before you mounted the heatsink


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.
> 
> from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.
> 
> but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),
> 
> so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.


I had this happen during a mount with the H220 as well, but it shouldn't really affect performance that much.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)


It should sit flat in the case if the fans are mounted top side.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


I would recommend trying to exchange it in the store. Swiftech is out of new H220's, and will replace your kit with a refurbished unit. Atlhough they make the RMA process fairly painless, I still think the store would be the less cumbersome option.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Idid not solely rely on Martins Lab. . And 20 different sources mean absolutely nothing if they are amateurish and do not set parameters to be exact for all test machines, so you can flail your arms , but it is all banter without substance. It would be far easier to just admit that you were subjective when you made your remarks about performance against other all in ones. Since you backtracked once already, bite the bullet and concede.'If that is too much for a dainty ego I understand. The matter is closed as far as I am concerned.


I prefer to follow the scientific process approach, and evaluate all of my options through an assortment of research. This discussion became pointless when you resorted to personal attacks though. I have witnessed you do that in other posts / forums as well, and don't care to partake in it. It doesn't promote a healthy discussion and has no place in forums.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> the original AP15 dont have a 4th connector on it. There is this post here of the PWM Ap15.
> D1225C12B5ZP-40 http://www.overclock.net/t/1364863/scythe-gentle-typhoon-ap-15-with-native-pwm-capability-d1225c12b5zp-40/0_50
> I'm using the NF-P12 on my H220. I like the fans, due to no PWM tick noise at any speeds.


Those PWM AP-15's haven't been in stock on Amazon for a couple of months, and I've never seen them anywhere else. As for the Noctua fans, I can't stand their tone...


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.
> 
> from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.
> 
> but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),
> 
> so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.


I recently pulled my H220 to see about turning it N/S vs W/E and also noticed similar markings on the H220







( didn't see any
markings on my cpu though). Used provided Tim as well.
Reason I was trying to re-orient the pump was while facing W/E tubing is very tight up against the 1st dimm ( actually best to pull dimm
to ease the install). Unfortunately N/S orientation is not possible on the Z87 Sabertooth because the heatsink.








I had pulled the 1st dimm (safety concerns/paranoid ??) soon after initial install and am looking into other water cooling solutions. Its
unfortunate that the H220 is not as compatible with the Z87 Sabertooth as I would like because it seems to be a good cooling unit .
Any recommendations other than removing the 1st dimm appreciated for this H220 or recommendations for other AIO for the Sabertooth.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Will take pictures and provide so the Z87 Sabertooth can be added to the Known Motherboard incompatibility issues for both Dimm and heat sink concerns.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


Sent you a PM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


Try to remount it again.
Also how is the H220 connected? Explain what settings used in bios for fan control.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> I recently pulled my H220 to see about turning it N/S vs W/E and also noticed similar markings on the H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( didn't see any
> markings on my cpu though). Used provided Tim as well.
> Reason I was trying to re-orient the pump was while facing W/E tubing is very tight up against the 1st dimm ( actually best to pull dimm
> to ease the install). Unfortunately N/S orientation is not possible on the Z87 Sabertooth because the heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had pulled the 1st dimm (safety concerns/paranoid ??) soon after initial install and am looking into other water cooling solutions. Its
> unfortunate that the H220 is not as compatible with the Z87 Sabertooth as I would like because it seems to be a good cooling unit .
> Any recommendations other than removing the 1st dimm appreciated for this H220 or recommendations for other AIO for the Sabertooth.


I have the Z77, which is the same layout as the Z87. You can use the first dimm slot, as the H220 slightly pushes on the ram. Which really wasnt noticeable or affect performance. I since then got very low profile ram and only 2 sticks, of 2x8gb move over to dimm 2/4.
Havent tries N/E, dont like the look of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Those PWM AP-15's haven't been in stock on Amazon for a couple of months, and I've never seen them anywhere else. As for the Noctua fans, I can't stand their tone...


Those you see in video are the NF-F12, not the NF-P12, which is what I use. Very different fans.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I have the Z77, which is the same layout as the Z87. You can use the first dimm slot, as the H220 slightly pushes on the ram. Which really wasnt noticeable or affect performance. I since then got very low profile ram and only 2 sticks, of 2x8gb move over to dimm 2/4.
> Havent tries N/E, dont like the look of it.
> Those you see in video are the NF-F12, not the NF-P12, which is what I use. Very different fans.


My understanding is that the P12's have slightly lower pressure and air flow, but seeing as the H220 uses a low FPI radiator I guess that really won't matter. Sadly martin doesn't have a video up for the P12's, and it's hard to compare sounds if the testing isn't standardized, know what I mean?

Edit: I run my fans on a separate header than the Pump, so I guess I don't need to stick with PWM control. I don't think running two AP-15's off a single header should be an issue.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


Try connecting the pump via the splitter in the red port. If that doesn't work try connecting the pump directly to the CPU header. If that doesn't work... try connecting to BramSLI1









On another note.. I hate how people keep quoting os2wiz... Still having to see his useless ramblings of the "man" trying to get him to waste money on the wrong water cooling gear, or how his opinion of the way something should work, somehow should negate the physics of a situation hurts my head. Is there any way to voteban someone from a thread? xD


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> My understanding is that the P12's have slightly lower pressure and air flow, but seeing as the H220 uses a low FPI radiator I guess that really won't matter. Sadly martin doesn't have a video up for the P12's, and it's hard to compare sounds if the testing isn't standardized, know what I mean?
> 
> Edit: I run my fans on a separate header than the Pump, so I guess I don't need to stick with PWM control. I don't think running two AP-15's off a single header should be an issue.


The P12 and F12 are both great fans. Like you said, the F12 is geared towards static pressure. The F12 also has a higher rpm limit (1500 vs 1300) as well which could make a bit of a difference. Some people have also reported a slightly different noise profile when both fans are used on radiators.


----------



## Fleat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> On another note.. I hate how people keep quoting os2wiz... Still having to see his useless ramblings of the "man" trying to get him to waste money on the wrong water cooling gear, or how his opinion of the way something should work, somehow should negate the physics of a situation hurts my head. Is there any way to voteban someone from a thread? xD


You are absolutely right. He is blocked now.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?


Try bypassing the PWM splitter and plugging directly into the motherboard! I had the same problem!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> My understanding is that the P12's have slightly lower pressure and air flow, but seeing as the H220 uses a low FPI radiator I guess that really won't matter. Sadly martin doesn't have a video up for the P12's, and it's hard to compare sounds if the testing isn't standardized, know what I mean?
> 
> Edit: I run my fans on a separate header than the Pump, so I guess I don't need to stick with PWM control. I don't think running two AP-15's off a single header should be an issue.


Here is the NF-P12 sound. I had the NF-F12, and the difference in sound is big. Its from the channel flow. I didnt like the sound profile of the NF-F12.
High SP fans is not needed for a thin rad with low FPI.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Try connecting the pump via the splitter in the red port. If that doesn't work try connecting the pump directly to the CPU header. If that doesn't work... try connecting to BramSLI1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note.. I hate how people keep quoting os2wiz... Still having to see his useless ramblings of the "man" trying to get him to waste money on the wrong water cooling gear, or how his opinion of the way something should work, somehow should negate the physics of a situation hurts my head. Is there any way to voteban someone from a thread? xD


The funny thing is os2wiz quoting Martin as having a scientific approach to measure things (which I agree btw) only to a few posts back to attack him very personally calling him a Neanderthal....

You should revise your way to talk about things and to people dude...Very angry and have no place in forums like this.

I hope for the sake of Gabe and Bryan Health that his h320 never give any trouble....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The funny thing is os2wiz quoting Martin as having a scientific approach to measure things (which I agree btw) only to a few posts back to attack him very personally calling him a Neanderthal....
> 
> You should revise your way to talk about things and to people dude...Very angry and have no place in forums like this.


I have to agree with Gabrielzm here. Martin is one of the few reviewers that actually takes a very scientific approach to his reviews and he is very meticulous in his methodology. oz2wiz doesn't always use very good tact, but some of his arguments are quite good. That's just my 2 cents.


----------



## dansi

Took a leap of faith and ordered one from sidewinder. Hey there Bram, do you know whether existing stocks are the latest batch with the earlier issues fixed? It seems there have been rather high no. of defective units. Thats worrying for me if it start dripping..

Still conflicted to hear users here saying that SA is minimally +/- against the H220 in terms of noise and temps. Though a few sites have reviewed H220 to be 5-10 dC cooler. Dont quite understand the variance here and even within site reviews?? Anyone could explain?

Since im kinda bored with the PC industry at the moment, just wanted to dip my feet in water cooling, If things dont work out, i could sell the H220 since the unit seems pretty in demand.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Took a leap of faith and ordered one from sidewinder. Hey there Bram, do you know whether existing stocks are the latest batch with the earlier issues fixed? It seems there have been rather high no. of defective units. Thats worrying for me if it start dripping..
> 
> Still conflicted to hear users here saying that SA is minimally +/- against the H220 in terms of noise and temps. Though a few sites have reviewed H220 to be 5-10 dC cooler. Dont quite understand the variance here and even within site reviews?? Anyone could explain?
> 
> Since im kinda bored with the PC industry at the moment, just wanted to dip my feet in water cooling, If things dont work out, i could sell the H220 since the unit seems pretty in demand.


All existing stock of these kits should have the necessary QC changes to ensure that the coolant is free from debris and that the pump will be quiet. With that being said, as I'm sure you're aware this is a forum where people will come to discuss issues that they're having with the product. Being that this is the case and that it's human nature to discuss problems with a product more often than to issue praise when it works; this gives the false impression that there have been quite a few issues and complaints with this product. I can assure you that the vast majority of those that own this kit have experienced no issues with it.

The variations in review results is most likely due to the variance in the methodology used during testing. As I've previously stated, Martin of MartinsLiquidLab is one of the most scientific reviewers out there and his methodology is quite meticulous. I value his reviews more than say 20 others that show varying degrees of performance and don't really tend to discuss the particulars of their testing methods. I'm not saying that Martin is perfect, but I trust his reviews more than most others simply because of his scientific and meticulous methodology. His tests can also be duplicated by others, if they follow his methodology, and that's what truly sets him apart in my opinion.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.
> 
> from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.
> 
> but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),
> 
> so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.


it's normal to have scuff marks whenever you mount/dismount a cooler. You're putting quite a bit of pressure on two metal surfaces. Thermal paste doesnt really shield either since it should only be a very, very thin film if any between the two. Dont worry about it, because you will get more.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Try connecting the pump via the splitter in the red port. If that doesn't work try connecting the pump directly to the CPU header. If that doesn't work... try connecting to BramSLI1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note.. I hate how people keep quoting os2wiz... Still having to see his useless ramblings of the "man" trying to get him to waste money on the wrong water cooling gear, or how his opinion of the way something should work, somehow should negate the physics of a situation hurts my head. Is there any way to voteban someone from a thread? xD


Your dislike for me is purely ideological. You showed your anti-communism when you disagreed with me on an issue and made negative reference to my signature. I have no problem with anybody disagreeing with me, but if I see somebody being purely subjective about an issue of import I will speak my mind. Immediately after Fleat made his post that was negative about the H220, a new user decided not to purchase an H220. But the post, no matter how he couches i,t was inaccurate. Most of the reviews that were negative on the H220 were done with poor testing methodology, some of the negative reviews were from sites that advertise Corsair products. Nobody can be taken seriously with a review if they are taking money from a company that is a competitor to the the product you are reviewing. It is a conflict of interest pure and simple. Being a reviewer takes a great deal pf responsibility and commitment to doing a very scientific testing methodology.. Most of the reviewers out here on different tech websites just don't have the training to do the job right.. My pointing that out should not be considered being a pain in the .....


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is designed to have the fans mounted on the rad then you can mount it to your case.


Not a lot of room at the top of a 600T. I'll measure it again, but I think my RAM is in the way


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Not a lot of room at the top of a 600T. I'll measure it again, but I think my RAM is in the way


it wont work unless you mod your case or ziptie fans, or use ultra slim fans. - 600T owner.


----------



## Dudewitbow

its not always about the training when it comes to methodology, generally most review sites are under a strict timeline to test the units and write up the whole thing and publish all of the results as a whole. because testing methodology is rushed, inaccuracies may occur. Ideally, I wish reviewers would take say 3 remounts and test and publish the average(to minimize inconsistencies), but that requires using more TIM, and some units have the TIM already on the block itself, and switching to a new TIM isn't indicative of the actual performance of the unit at stock.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its not always about the training when it comes to methodology, generally most review sites are under a strict timeline to test the units and write up the whole thing and publish all of the results as a whole. because testing methodology is rushed, inaccuracies may occur. Ideally, I wish reviewers would take say 3 remounts and test and publish the average(to minimize inconsistencies), but that requires using more TIM, and some units have the TIM already on the block itself, and switching to a new TIM isn't indicative of the actual performance of the unit at stock.


Well said and I totally agree.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its not always about the training when it comes to methodology, generally most review sites are under a strict timeline to test the units and write up the whole thing and publish all of the results as a whole. because testing methodology is rushed, inaccuracies may occur. Ideally, I wish reviewers would take say 3 remounts and test and publish the average(to minimize inconsistencies), but that requires using more TIM, and some units have the TIM already on the block itself, and switching to a new TIM isn't indicative of the actual performance of the unit at stock.


Your point is well taken.But it is equally true that many of these reviews were not done correctly. I would stick with reviewers whose findings correspond with the findings of the users of those products. It would be great if a database of temperatures on different rigs with specified coolers could be kept on a grand scale. We would then have a database large enough to eliminate the inaccuracies of human error.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it wont work unless you mod your case or ziptie fans, or use ultra slim fans. - 600T owner.


Yeah. Looked like it was going to, but the fans are just a touch too thick. Thinking about moving to a Corsair 540 soon though, so it may not matter.

Also: saw your video. That's a nice looking 600T you have there


----------



## dansi

Thanks mate waiting for it to arrive.
One more thing i noted is while the box warranty states 3 years, the pump is only covered for 2 years...thats kind of sneaky..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Thanks mate waiting for it to arrive.
> One more thing i noted is while the box warranty states 3 years, the pump is only covered for 2 years...thats kind of sneaky..


No sneaky stuff here.
Its 3 years for the H220 for all parts.
Pumps alone, not part of the kit is 2 years.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Got my H220 today, and after a test fit in my R4 I decided to shorten the lines to make it work with my system better. Everything is fine and back together now, but I noticed an insane amount of plasticiser buildup inside the tubing. There's a lot of it, it was even gunked up on some of the barbs. Is this going to cause problems down the line? It was a BRAND NEW kit, and it having that much crap inside the lines is startling.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Got my H220 today, and after a test fit in my R4 I decided to shorten the lines to make it work with my system better. Everything is fine and back together now, but I noticed an insane amount of plasticiser buildup inside the tubing. There's a lot of it, it was even gunked up on some of the barbs. Is this going to cause problems down the line? It was a BRAND NEW kit, and it having that much crap inside the lines is startling.


I wonder if that is the root cause of many of the reported pump problems, too much of that white stuff mucking up the works?


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No sneaky stuff here.
> Its 3 years for the H220 for all parts.
> Pumps alone, not part of the kit is 2 years.


Well it can be said the pump is the most likely source of malfunction

Granted H220 built quality is leaps above Astek from reviews, it is still a pump and it moves, it may breaks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Well it can be said the pump is the most likely source of malfunction
> 
> Granted H220 built quality is leaps above Astek from reviews, it is still a pump and it moves, it may breaks.


2 year pump warrantee claim is a generalization of all the Swiftech pumps, like the D5, mcp355, mcp35x, etc. All those pumps have a 2 year warrantee. The H220 on the other hand, is considered differently and when sealed has a full 3 yr warrantee on all the parts including the pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> All existing stock of these kits should have the necessary QC changes to ensure that the coolant is free from debris and that the pump will be quiet. With that being said, as I'm sure you're aware this is a forum where people will come to discuss issues that they're having with the product. Being that this is the case and that it's human nature to discuss problems with a product more often than to issue praise when it works; this gives the false impression that there have been quite a few issues and complaints with this product. I can assure you that the vast majority of those that own this kit have experienced no issues with it.
> 
> The variations in review results is most likely due to the variance in the methodology used during testing. As I've previously stated, Martin of MartinsLiquidLab is one of the most scientific reviewers out there and his methodology is quite meticulous. I value his reviews more than say 20 others that show varying degrees of performance and don't really tend to discuss the particulars of their testing methods. I'm not saying that Martin is perfect, but I trust his reviews more than most others simply because of his scientific and meticulous methodology. His tests can also be duplicated by others, if they follow his methodology, and that's what truly sets him apart in my opinion.


really could not of said it better.
a great example is the apogee hd .... now that i think of it i have not seen 1 review use it as it is designed which is in parallel . and i think i gets me somes awesome temps ( and i am not even in parallel yet...... and now i have to buy new SLI fittings. gonna ge tmy wife some 7950s or 7970s and cfx them and ill use th eones i have on hers....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> it's normal to have scuff marks whenever you mount/dismount a cooler. You're putting quite a bit of pressure on two metal surfaces. Thermal paste doesnt really shield either since it should only be a very, very thin film if any between the two. Dont worry about it, because you will get more.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Your dislike for me is purely ideological. You showed your anti-communism when you disagreed with me on an issue and made negative reference to my signature. I have no problem with anybody disagreeing with me, but if I see somebody being purely subjective about an issue of import I will speak my mind. Immediately after Fleat made his post that was negative about the H220, a new user decided not to purchase an H220. But the post, no matter how he couches i,t was inaccurate. Most of the reviews that were negative on the H220 were done with poor testing methodology, some of the negative reviews were from sites that advertise Corsair products. Nobody can be taken seriously with a review if they are taking money from a company that is a competitor to the the product you are reviewing. It is a conflict of interest pure and simple. Being a reviewer takes a great deal pf responsibility and commitment to doing a very scientific testing methodology.. Most of the reviewers out here on different tech websites just don't have the training to do the job right.. My pointing that out should not be considered being a pain in the .....


hate to tell you oz, but i am 100% capitalist that said you have a right to be what ever you want and to have your own opinions . ill fight to the dieing breath for you to have that right, but ill also fight to the death to avoid socialism.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Thanks mate waiting for it to arrive.
> One more thing i noted is while the box warranty states 3 years, the pump is only covered for 2 years...thats kind of sneaky..


that is if you buy the pump alone, as a stand alone unit ( at some point they will be selling ) not as a AIO kit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Got my H220 today, and after a test fit in my R4 I decided to shorten the lines to make it work with my system better. Everything is fine and back together now, but I noticed an insane amount of plasticiser buildup inside the tubing. There's a lot of it, it was even gunked up on some of the barbs. Is this going to cause problems down the line? It was a BRAND NEW kit, and it having that much crap inside the lines is startling.


pretty normal.... all soft tubing will get it


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 2 year pump warrantee claim is a generalization of all the Swiftech pumps, like the D5, mcp355, mcp35x, etc. All those pumps have a 2 year warrantee. The H220 on the other hand, is considered differently and when sealed has a full 3 yr warrantee on all the parts including the pump.


ok now i get it.









Does the 3 years still stand if it has been dismantle either to drain or expand the AIO setup?


----------



## MadGoat

Finally got some time to get this installed...




While it was bench bleeding... Its running great now...


----------



## tmsmith

Hello!
First time water cooler here. I have gotten some good info reading the few pages I could manage until the arguing started. I appologize if this was mentioned.
When getting ready to install, what should I avoid doing? Is there a preferred way to mount the rad?
Thanks! Looking forward to joining you all with the H220.


----------



## Toe-Nail-Ted

hi this link may help http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/H220-INSTALLATION_GUIDE.pdf easier to see then the booklet


----------



## MerkageTurk

Managed to install it on my 900D


----------



## os2wiz

I owe you an apology for my last reply to you. While my criticism of your negative conclusions on the H220 are correct, I was too harsh in my criticism. I made the error taking it to a personal level. The goal should be an exhange of ideas, not trying to humiliate anyone. I did not intend to humiliate. I am blunt , I admit it. But I should have avoided one line that was included in my last reply to you. I wish you well and will endeavor to take the high road.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Your dislike for me is purely ideological. You showed your anti-communism when you disagreed with me on an issue and made negative reference to my signature. I have no problem with anybody disagreeing with me, but if I see somebody being purely subjective about an issue of import I will speak my mind. Immediately after Fleat made his post that was negative about the H220, a new user decided not to purchase an H220. But the post, no matter how he couches i,t was inaccurate. Most of the reviews that were negative on the H220 were done with poor testing methodology, some of the negative reviews were from sites that advertise Corsair products. Nobody can be taken seriously with a review if they are taking money from a company that is a competitor to the the product you are reviewing. It is a conflict of interest pure and simple. Being a reviewer takes a great deal pf responsibility and commitment to doing a very scientific testing methodology.. Most of the reviewers out here on different tech websites just don't have the training to do the job right.. My pointing that out should not be considered being a pain in the ..... In the medical arena the same problem exists. There are many researchers that publish inthe medical journals like New England Journal of Medicine or the Lancet that are unscientific in their methodology. We often hear of studies that find something is bad for you and a few months later another study says the opposite. Their findings are mutually exclusive. Some of these studies did not have a proper control group. Some did not eliminate enough variables in their study. Some did not have a large enough sampling to account for anomalies. And of course some research is funded by drug companies. Those are often the ones with the worst science. They want to make sure their drug is effective so it reaches the market. Often they have excluded data from patients that had bad outcomes after using the drug.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Hello!
> First time water cooler here. I have gotten some good info reading the few pages I could manage until the arguing started. I appologize if this was mentioned.
> When getting ready to install, what should I avoid doing? Is there a preferred way to mount the rad?
> Thanks! Looking forward to joining you all with the H220.


Welcome, several people have recommended the fill port face up to assist in trapping any air that does form as well as ease of future maintenance, case design dictates a lot what you can and cant do. (didnt see your case listed) Some people recommend a leak test from 3-24hrs prior to installation. Swiftech site has several videos that may help for installation and leak test. http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab4


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> ok now i get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 3 years still stand if it has been dismantle either to drain or expand the AIO setup?


Yes it is still 3 years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Hello!
> First time water cooler here. I have gotten some good info reading the few pages I could manage until the arguing started. I appologize if this was mentioned.
> When getting ready to install, what should I avoid doing? Is there a preferred way to mount the rad?
> Thanks! Looking forward to joining you all with the H220.


Unfortunately your case dont support H220.
Unless you do come series modding to make it work. By that point, you are better off with a new case.


----------



## pcfoo

Well, another nail @ my H220 decision









Got home after a long day and my H220's pump has started being noisy @ full speeds. No bubbles should/appear to be locked in. The unit went through some juggling and primming working for 24+ H out of the box the day before installation.

Pump is "ok" (still louder than the 1st 2 days) when the PC is idling, but even @ 50% load as the temps pick up and the QFan starts revving the pump up, the noise becomes unsettling.
@ Full speed the unit sounds definitely loud (i.e. you would not sleep with that in the next room n doors open). Temps hold in similar levels still, I just stopped folding cause I can't stand the noise!

Time to contact FrozenCPU support, and getting another ding on ze Wallet for shipping the thing back.









I hold them responsible for "forcing me" into daydreaming upgrading to 540D, open loop and 2-3 rads...Bday a month from now


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, another nail @ my H220 decision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got home after a long day and my H220's pump has started being noisy @ full speeds. No bubbles should/appear to be locked in. The unit went through some juggling and primming working for 24+ H out of the box the day before installation.
> 
> Pump is "ok" (still louder than the 1st 2 days) when the PC is idling, but even @ 50% load as the temps pick up and the QFan starts revving the pump up, the noise becomes unsettling.
> @ Full speed the unit sounds definitely loud (i.e. you would not sleep with that in the next room n doors open). Temps hold in similar levels still, I just stopped folding cause I can't stand the noise!
> 
> Time to contact FrozenCPU support, and getting another ding on ze Wallet for shipping the thing back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hold them responsible for "forcing me" into daydreaming upgrading to 540D, open loop and 2-3 rads...Bday a month from now


No need to contact frozenCPU. Deal directly with Swiftech.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, another nail @ my H220 decision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got home after a long day and my H220's pump has started being noisy @ full speeds. No bubbles should/appear to be locked in. The unit went through some juggling and primming working for 24+ H out of the box the day before installation.
> 
> Pump is "ok" (still louder than the 1st 2 days) when the PC is idling, but even @ 50% load as the temps pick up and the QFan starts revving the pump up, the noise becomes unsettling.
> @ Full speed the unit sounds definitely loud (i.e. you would not sleep with that in the next room n doors open). Temps hold in similar levels still, I just stopped folding cause I can't stand the noise!
> 
> Time to contact FrozenCPU support, and getting another ding on ze Wallet for shipping the thing back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hold them responsible for "forcing me" into daydreaming upgrading to 540D, open loop and 2-3 rads...Bday a month from now


I once had an issue with my Apogee Drive II (big brother of the H220), where it became deathly loud out of the blue. Culprit? Air bubble. Sometimes they just happen at random. Several cases of loud H220s have been documented as such as well. Not saying that is definitely the case in your situation, but it's worth another look.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I once had an issue with my Apogee Drive II (big brother of the H220), where it became deathly loud out of the blue. Culprit? Air bubble. Sometimes they just happen at random. Several cases of loud H220s have been documented as such as well. Not saying that is definitely the case in your situation, but it's worth another look.


What if it turns out to be Aliens?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtolios*
> 
> Well, another nail @ my H220 decision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got home after a long day and my H220's pump has started being noisy @ full speeds. No bubbles should/appear to be locked in. The unit went through some juggling and primming working for 24+ H out of the box the day before installation.
> 
> Pump is "ok" (still louder than the 1st 2 days) when the PC is idling, but even @ 50% load as the temps pick up and the QFan starts revving the pump up, the noise becomes unsettling.
> @ Full speed the unit sounds definitely loud (i.e. you would not sleep with that in the next room n doors open). Temps hold in similar levels still, I just stopped folding cause I can't stand the noise!
> 
> Time to contact FrozenCPU support, and getting another ding on ze Wallet for shipping the thing back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hold them responsible for "forcing me" into daydreaming upgrading to 540D, open loop and 2-3 rads...Bday a month from now


Please follow the instructions on the first page of this thread. If your pump is still noisy after this then please PM me and I'll get to work on setting you up with an RMA for a replacement. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## ucantescape1992

I know air bubbles make the pump really loud, and can limit cooling efficiency as well, but does it cause damage to the pump? I don't mean that the pump is starved of water, just a small pocket trapped.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I know air bubbles make the pump really loud, and can limit cooling efficiency as well, but does it cause damage to the pump? I don't mean that the pump is starved of water, just a small pocket trapped.


Bubbles shouldn't damage the pump.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

So how does the H220 Compare to say, and apogee Drive ii and a 45mm thick 240mm rad (+ res obviously). Assuming the same fans and all that.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> So how does the H220 Compare to say, and apogee Drive ii and a 45mm thick 240mm rad (+ res obviously). Assuming the same fans and all that.


Price would be most obvious difference and the Drive II gets the lighting on the block. Performance wise I wouldn't suspect anything other than margin of error ~4c or less (at least in my ideas) between the two. Between the two I'd go for H220 for the warranty on the stock configuration of 3 years.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> So how does the H220 Compare to say, and apogee Drive ii and a 45mm thick 240mm rad (+ res obviously). Assuming the same fans and all that.


Martin reviewed the h220 rad pretty thouroughly. Apparently, like all the AIO coolers, it's more restrictive than lots of 240mm rads used for open loops and would probably make for lower flow rates. Depending on what you want to cool with the loop, might not make any difference in cooling, but could make it more difficult to push air thru so it gets trapped in the res. I'd suggest you go read his review, Martin liquid labs.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Bryan can you confirm that trapped air in the h220 pump won't lead to premature failure.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Bryan can you confirm that trapped air in the h220 pump won't lead to premature failure.


Air bubbles is common in pump for watercooling. At times you might need to give a little shake or tilt to try to move the air bubble back upto reservoir.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Bryan can you confirm that trapped air in the h220 pump won't lead to premature failure.


I can confirm that bubbles won't lead to premature pump failure.


----------



## ghostrider85

thinking about getting one of these, how is swiftech's customer service compared to corsair? what if this thing leaks and destroyed my mobo? is it covered?


----------



## goddog

just thought i would chime in fits nicely in an corsair d550. using it on a 3770K with an GA-Z77X-UDH5. My first unit was installed so to pull air in from the top into the case. In this set up idle was between 12c and 18c and top end was 54c with and OC on the CPU of 4.2 no voltage change. this unit the pump failed after about 2 months of use). At the time i thought it was my gpu as i just updated drivers when computer kept rebooting no matter what i did, then i checked the temps and noticed cpu at 98c. checked everything, swapped cables/psu and moved the header around to different ports sadly the pump was dead. no leak though. talked with swiftech support (they were great) got a new unit to replace mine. this time i set it up to draw air from inside the case to help keep the gpu cooler (in the other config the gpus temp went up by 8c) this new config the idle is about 18c-24c load is about 55-61c (gpu only suffers about a 3c increase). this change also made the whole system seem much more quite.

however under load the gpu was still to noise so in the next two weeks i am taking the next step and moving into adding my gpu to the loop (first real building of a loop for me). adding a 120mm rad to the loop and a reservoir. the block will be an EK-7970 lightning edition. I looked for the fluid used in the h220 but seems to be sold out everywhere so was thinking of using distilled water and kill coil. or maybe the old swiftech fluid from what i read on martins liquid lab the test h220s shipped with that.... would rather use the stuff thats in it but oh well.

will post pics when i am done with the setup! and new temps....

my only thoughts on real changes to the h220 would be the initial mount to the mobo, i would like the first stage to me more like the prolimatech megahalems which it replaced. the megahalems had to be the easiest mount i ever carried out. not saying the h220 is hard, just saying it could be easier.

one other question as i am a newbie... i am moderately worried about pump failure again, would it harm the loop to add a second pump? sort of a back up/redundancy. what would you guys recommend if its okay to do? right now i just have a trigger set to temps that begins shut down of the cpu if temps get too high. (dont ever want to se the cpu at 98 again)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> thinking about getting one of these, how is swiftech's customer service compared to corsair? what if this thing leaks and destroyed my mobo? is it covered?


Items damaged by a leaking H220 is not part of their warranty. Customer service is another story, they post here regularly and seem to have top notch service.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Items damaged by a leaking H220 is not part of their warranty. Customer service is another story, they post here regularly and seem to have top notch service.


doesn't matter if they always post here, if they are not gonna cover damages due to failure then that is not good.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> thinking about getting one of these, how is swiftech's customer service compared to corsair? what if this thing leaks and destroyed my mobo? is it covered?


Customer service is absolutely top notch.

As for the warantee, it's the same situation as Corsair. They will handle damaged goods from leaks on a case-by-case basis. So far I've only seen 3 people complain about leaks, and considering that this club is the squeaky wheel of H220 owners, I'd say a leak from the factory is very rare.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> doesn't matter if they always post here, if they are not gonna cover damages due to failure then that is not good.


BRam has said they will evaluate each like corsair on a case by case basis. Basically if the pump itself somehow leaks, damage as a result could be covered (i.e. from between the pump and the block, etc. that is sealed). Manufacturer defect.

but that will probably not cover leaks resulting from loosening the hose clamps, etc. or disassembling the system.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> thinking about getting one of these, how is swiftech's customer service compared to corsair? what if this thing leaks and destroyed my mobo? is it covered?


that is on a case buy case basis, however every company wishes they had customer service like swiftech. top in class bar NONE !~ and i do mean NONE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> just thought i would chime in fits nicely in an corsair d550. using it on a 3770K with an GA-Z77X-UDH5. My first unit was installed so to pull air in from the top into the case. In this set up idle was between 12c and 18c and top end was 54c with and OC on the CPU of 4.2 no voltage change. this unit the pump failed after about 2 months of use). At the time i thought it was my gpu as i just updated drivers when computer kept rebooting no matter what i did, then i checked the temps and noticed cpu at 98c. checked everything, swapped cables/psu and moved the header around to different ports sadly the pump was dead. no leak though. talked with swiftech support (they were great) got a new unit to replace mine. this time i set it up to draw air from inside the case to help keep the gpu cooler (in the other config the gpus temp went up by 8c) this new config the idle is about 18c-24c load is about 55-61c (gpu only suffers about a 3c increase). this change also made the whole system seem much more quite.
> 
> however under load the gpu was still to noise so in the next two weeks i am taking the next step and moving into adding my gpu to the loop (first real building of a loop for me). adding a 120mm rad to the loop and a reservoir. the block will be an EK-7970 lightning edition. I looked for the fluid used in the h220 but seems to be sold out everywhere so was thinking of using distilled water and kill coil. or maybe the old swiftech fluid from what i read on martins liquid lab the test h220s shipped with that.... would rather use the stuff thats in it but oh well.
> 
> will post pics when i am done with the setup! and new temps....
> 
> my only thoughts on real changes to the h220 would be the initial mount to the mobo, i would like the first stage to me more like the prolimatech megahalems which it replaced. the megahalems had to be the easiest mount i ever carried out. not saying the h220 is hard, just saying it could be easier.
> 
> one other question as i am a newbie... i am moderately worried about pump failure again, would it harm the loop to add a second pump? sort of a back up/redundancy. what would you guys recommend if its okay to do? right now i just have a trigger set to temps that begins shut down of the cpu if temps get too high. (dont ever want to se the cpu at 98 again)


not at all there is reasons to in parallel and seriesbut most conman is series.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> BRam has said they will evaluate each like corsair on a case by case basis. Basically if the pump itself somehow leaks, damage as a result could be covered (i.e. from between the pump and the block, etc. that is sealed). Manufacturer defect.
> 
> but that will probably not cover leaks resulting from loosening the hose clamps, etc. or disassembling the system.


yup, i perfectly understand that, and you gave a good example about my concerns. if i disassemble the clamps and hoses then leaks through those connections should not be covered anymore because it is my fault, but if it leaks on the block itself then it is a manufacturing defect and all the damaged parts should be covered.

if they will not cover any damaged parts due to manufacturing defect then that is not a good CS.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, basically any kind of customer miss-use or negligence. For example, running the kit without fluid. This will damage the pump and therefore void the warranty.
> 
> *Being that this isn't a sealed kit we don't cover damage due to leaks.* This kit can be expanded and that's what sets it apart from the other AIO kits. Let me clarify this by saying that just like all other manufacturers, damage to 3rd party components, are handled on a case by case basis. I hope this helps to clarify our warranty policy and coverage of this product.


what if it leaks on the block itself? not on the hose connections? is it still "we don't cover damages because it is not sealed? isn't that a defect and it's swiftech's responsibility to cover any damage due to that?

i understand that if we disassemble the hoses and if it leaks through there it should not be covered anymore, but what if we did not? what if we just left it alone and just installed it on our PC? would leaks through hose connections covered? isn't it not supposed to leak if we left it untouched and should be covered under warranty?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> what if it leaks on the block itself? not on the hose connections? is it still "we don't cover damages because it is not sealed? isn't that a defect and it's swiftech's responsibility to cover any damage due to that?
> 
> i understand that if we disassemble the hoses and if it leaks through there it should not be covered anymore, but what if we did not? what if we just left it alone and just installed it on our PC? would leaks through hose connections covered? isn't it not supposed to leak if we left it untouched and should be covered under warranty?


The whole they should cover damages thing has been discussed many times. Part of me wants to say I know the risk putting water inside of my PC, so its me taking the risk. As for the law, I guess we would know if someone actually sued a company for this very reason to see what the outcome would be. Then again you could have 5 different judges and get a variety of outcomes.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The whole they should cover damages thing has been discussed many times. Part of me wants to say I know the risk putting water inside of my PC, so its me taking the risk. As for the law, I guess we would know if someone actually sued a company for this very reason to see what the outcome would be. Then again you could have 5 different judges and get a variety of outcomes.


I just want to know how would they deal about these kind of situations, i they will firmly say "no, we don't cover damages at all" then there is no way i'm gonna buy this cooler.

I don't care what we have been discussed many times here, i want to hear it swiftech, assumptions are not enough for me.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I just want to know how would they deal about these kind of situations, i they will firmly say "no, we don't cover damages at all" then there is no way i'm gonna buy this cooler.
> 
> I don't care what we have been discussed many times here, i want to hear it swiftech, i don't want to hear assumptions.


Bram will most likely reply, he has before about this very topic.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Bram will most likely reply, he has before about this very topic.


Not exactly the same questions that i have, i won't gonna ask the same questions that has already been answered.
I have very specific questions.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Not exactly the same questions that i have. I have very specific questions.


Send him a PM, no doubt he will help as much as possible.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Send him a PM, no doubt he will help as much as possible.


I prefer to do it publicly, everyone should know, not just me.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I prefer to do it publicly, everyone should know, not just me.


Bryan has already publicly said the will handle damage due to leaks on a case by case basis, just like Corsair. Corsair has been known to cover a few peoples' parts but they've also been known to not cover others. It is at their discretion. Without a case arising, there's really no way to be more specific than that.


----------



## AlDyer

Good luck finding a company with better customer support ghostrider... The problem is that they can't cover damages every time someone's kit leaks WITHOUT proof that it indeed was a manufacturing defect. I am sure they will if you can prove it.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I prefer to do it publicly, everyone should know, not just me.


A simple answer and what I have done b4 putting any thing with water in my system, is to run it for a few hour on the kitchen counter to check it has no leaks


----------



## AlDyer

Yeah I agree that you should leak test before putting any watercooling in...


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> doesn't matter if they always post here, if they are not gonna cover damages due to failure then that is not good.


The Corsair warranty is over-rated. I had a leak from my H100 that destroyed my $240 motherboard. I got $60 back from Corsair and a replacement H100i.I think that is piss-poor, and that is the best in the industry. So if you think Corsair is going to cover the replacement cost on damages your living in another world.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I prefer to do it publicly, everyone should know, not just me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As I stated in my amended post though we will look at 3rd party hardware damage on a case by case basis, if the damage is in fact due to manufacturer defect. This is no different than what Corsair are currently doing.


As i said earlier, they have already mentioned their policy for manufacturer defect.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As I stated in my amended post though we will look at 3rd party hardware damage on a case by case basis, if the damage is in fact due to manufacturer defect. This is no different than what (some other companies) are currently doing.


That's what I posted previously and I hope it helps to clarify things for those that are concerned about leaks due to manufacturing defects.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I just want to know how would they deal about these kind of situations, i they will firmly say "no, we don't cover damages at all" then there is no way i'm gonna buy this cooler.
> 
> I don't care what we have been discussed many times here, i want to hear it swiftech, assumptions are not enough for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Bryan has already publicly said the will handle damage due to leaks on a case by case basis, just like Corsair. Corsair has been known to cover a few peoples' parts but they've also been known to not cover others. It is at their discretion. Without a case arising, there's really no way to be more specific than that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Good luck finding a company with better customer support ghostrider... The problem is that they can't cover damages every time someone's kit leaks WITHOUT proof that it indeed was a manufacturing defect. I am sure they will if you can prove it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The Corsair warranty is over-rated. I had a leak from my H100 that destroyed my $240 motherboard. I got $60 back from Corsair and a replacement H100i.I think that is piss-poor, and that is the best in the industry. So if you think Corsair is going to cover the replacement cost on damages your living in another world.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's what I posted previously and I hope it helps to clarify things for those that are concerned about leaks due to manufacturing defects.


enough said wont add anything else


----------



## jezzer

got a new MB so had to replace cool paste to, replaced the switftec paste with MX-4 and went 10 degrees in celcius up... Does this kit suck with mx-4 or should i repaste? i think i now my answer already but maybe anyone is using mx-4 and can tell me if temps are the same as the standard paste or better or worse?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> got a new MB so had to replace cool paste to, replaced the switftec paste with MX-4 and went 10 degrees in celcius up... Does this kit suck with mx-4 or should i repaste? i think i now my answer already but maybe anyone is using mx-4 and can tell me if temps are the same as the standard paste or better or worse?


It is impossible to get 10c difference from thermal paste. With MX-4 and Swiftech own.
Likely you did not correctly seat the H220 onto CPU.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> got a new MB so had to replace cool paste to, replaced the switftec paste with MX-4 and went 10 degrees in celcius up... Does this kit suck with mx-4 or should i repaste? i think i now my answer already but maybe anyone is using mx-4 and can tell me if temps are the same as the standard paste or better or worse?


MX-4 isn't as good as the TimMate but it shouldn't be 10*C difference- not even mayonaise should be that much difference. I think a remount is in order


----------



## jezzer

I dunno it was tightly in place. I am repasting right now. Unfortunatly no more timmate that tube is empty


----------



## jezzer

It's fixed now


----------



## Phelan




----------



## michael-ocn

MX-4 should be pretty good stuff, maybe not the absolute best temp wise, but top notch all the same. What looks most nice about it is how long lasting an application is, 6 to 8 years.


----------



## Molokou

Hello guys!

3 days ago I got my H220 plus 2 more helix fans for a P/P config, and this is my proof picture











I forgot to tag it with my nickname but it isn't like I'm going to open the case just for that right now









Hope with this I can join the club









Greets from México!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molokou*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> 3 days ago I got my H220 plus 2 more helix fans for a P/P config, and this is my proof picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to tag it with my nickname but it isn't like I'm going to open the case just for that right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope with this I can join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greets from México!


Feel free to remove the plastic off the pump. You cant be in the club until you do that.


----------



## Molokou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Feel free to remove the plastic off the pump. You cant be in the club until you do that.


I did it as soon as I got the graphics card in









Here's the proof hahaha


----------



## Reptar

I've had my Swiftech H220 for about 2 weeks now and it has been working fine. I left my PC on overnight running AIDA64 and when I woke up the screen was frozen but there was no buzzing noise. When I came back and restarted the PC I heard a loud buzzing noise, and unplugged everything and figured out it was the H220. Usually in the BIOS it runs at 1000 RPM, but now it was running at over 2000. I don't know what to do to fix it. Here's a video of the noise.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> I've had my Swiftech H220 for about 2 weeks now and it has been working fine. I left my PC on overnight running AIDA64 and when I woke up the screen was frozen but there was no buzzing noise. When I came back and restarted the PC I heard a loud buzzing noise, and unplugged everything and figured out it was the H220. Usually in the BIOS it runs at 1000 RPM, but now it was running at over 2000. I don't know what to do to fix it. Here's a video of the noise.


It may or may not be the problem in your case,but in my case (pun intended) I got that noise from an air bubble. Check out the OP and you'll find detailed instructions on how to get rid of them







.


----------



## ucantescape1992

So I have my H220 mounted in the top of my R4 in stock configuration (intake). The harmonic that the fans produced against the honeycomb grill was horrid, so I tried to space fans a couple mm away from the grill to eliminate the problem. The harmonic still slightly exists, however I can't space the rad and fans any further down (away from the honeycomb mesh) because I'm already physically touching my motherboard heatsinks. I also noticed that I'll never be able to do push pull in the top because I'll hit the ram (even though I'm using Corsair Vengeance LP).

For the record when mounted right up against the grill (stock) there are no clearance issues with the R4 and UD5H Mobo.

Is there any way to offset my configuration just a few more mm away from the mobo side? Does anyone manufacture offset fan shrouds or something of the sort?

A simple solution would be to just use a honeycomb hole to the left the furthest offset hole, and drill a hole to correspond with it. I'd rather not do this if there are other ways.

Ultimately I'd like to have the fans spaced 5-10mm from the honeycomb mesh so I don't have to deal with the horrid harmonic it produces.

Pics to show how it's mounted currently:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## drnilly007

I think that type of spacing is going to be chronic with this cooler as I also have a mid tower case and cannot put fans in push pull because the rad nearly touching one of the the i/o ports. You however wil be able to mount the fans on the top of the case and rad inside to give you much more space inside and get the fans away from the honeycomb.

You'll just have to rotate the rad the other way to get it to mount flush

You could also paint the fan housing white to match the rest of your case.

I would probably put a fan grill on them though if you have kids running around.


----------



## jezzer

Hey guys, got a question. I am currently using a push config. Have two noctua nff12's on top of the rad pushing air through it.

Now i am thinking of adding two fans in pull mode under the rad. Is it important that those fans are exactly the same as the pushers or can it be other fans with different static pressure, rpm and air movement?

If i for example place two fans in pull mode under it which move less air than the nff12's will it be worse or better?


----------



## drnilly007

Most people say you have to use the exact same fans. Not sure though never tried. It would make sense to me to use the same rpm range fans at least.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hey guys, got a question. I am currently using a push config. Have two noctua nff12's on top of the rad pushing air through it.
> 
> Now i am thinking of adding two fans in pull mode under the rad. Is it important that those fans are exactly the same as the pushers or can it be other fans with different static pressure, rpm and air movement?
> 
> If i for example place two fans in pull mode under it which move less air than the nff12's will it be worse or better?


It is always best to use the exact same fans for push/pull. There are those that don't but you can have issues with not getting the best performance and it could be louder than it should be.

However, a few people here have tried push/pull with the H220 and because the rad is designed for quiet operation you only get a couple c better. Some people want every c they can get no matter what, and others really like the look of push/pull. So there are reasons to do it, but I just wanted to let you know that the performance increase will be minimal.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> So I have my H220 mounted in the top of my R4 in stock configuration (intake). The harmonic that the fans produced against the honeycomb grill was horrid, so I tried to space fans a couple mm away from the grill to eliminate the problem. The harmonic still slightly exists, however I can't space the rad and fans any further down (away from the honeycomb mesh) because I'm already physically touching my motherboard heatsinks. I also noticed that I'll never be able to do push pull in the top because I'll hit the ram (even though I'm using Corsair Vengeance LP).
> 
> For the record when mounted right up against the grill (stock) there are no clearance issues with the R4 and UD5H Mobo.
> 
> Is there any way to offset my configuration just a few more mm away from the mobo side? Does anyone manufacture offset fan shrouds or something of the sort?
> 
> A simple solution would be to just use a honeycomb hole to the left the furthest offset hole, and drill a hole to correspond with it. I'd rather not do this if there are other ways.
> 
> Ultimately I'd like to have the fans spaced 5-10mm from the honeycomb mesh so I don't have to deal with the horrid harmonic it produces.
> 
> Pics to show how it's mounted currently:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





rubber gaskets maybe? sounds like the honey comb is concave and not convex? maybe it got pushed it ( would happen with my 900. ) maybe try pulling it out? otherwise how would any fan mount to it with out making noise?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hey guys, got a question. I am currently using a push config. Have two noctua nff12's on top of the rad pushing air through it.
> 
> Now i am thinking of adding two fans in pull mode under the rad. Is it important that those fans are exactly the same as the pushers or can it be other fans with different static pressure, rpm and air movement?
> 
> If i for example place two fans in pull mode under it which move less air than the nff12's will it be worse or better?






always use same type of fans.worst case you can do this
Fan1 rad Fan1
fan2 rad fan2
ps push pull makes almost no difference in thin rads 60+mm thick rads on the other hand it does help.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Most people say you have to use the exact same fans. Not sure though never tried. It would make sense to me to use the same rpm range fans at least.





see above


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> It is always best to use the exact same fans for push/pull. There are those that don't but you can have issues with not getting the best performance and it could be louder than it should be.
> 
> However, a few people here have tried push/pull with the H220 and because the rad is designed for quiet operation you only get a couple c better. Some people want every c they can get no matter what, and others really like the look of push/pull. So there are reasons to do it, but I just wanted to let you know that the performance increase will be minimal.






again. everyone thinks more is better
you are lucky on thin rads to get 1c difference. with push pull

best option is pull... ( makes it easy to clean rather then having a mat of dirt/dust/hair under a fan also dispersion is a LITTLE better )


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hey guys, got a question. I am currently using a push config. Have two noctua nff12's on top of the rad pushing air through it.
> 
> Now i am thinking of adding two fans in pull mode under the rad. Is it important that those fans are exactly the same as the pushers or can it be other fans with different static pressure, rpm and air movement?
> 
> If i for example place two fans in pull mode under it which move less air than the nff12's will it be worse or better?


Is the goal to lower cpu temps or to increase air intake into the case for the benefit of your dual gpus? Since the rad is not too thick and has a low fin densitiy, adding fans probably won't help temps much, but probably would pull more air into the case... if i had to guess.


----------



## ghostrider85

does anyone know if swiftech's HQ in Long Beach, CA. have a physical store? can i just drive there and buy some of their stuffs?


----------



## Reptar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It may or may not be the problem in your case,but in my case (pun intended) I got that noise from an air bubble. Check out the OP and you'll find detailed instructions on how to get rid of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I followed everything in the instructions and the noise became more quiet, but it is still noticeable. I've been doing for over an hour now but the noise won't go away, and sometimes it will get louder. Sometimes I even get a noise that sounds like water flowing loudly for a prolonged period of time.


----------



## higgsboozin

Hi guys,
New to ocn, and was really happy with my h220 until the pump just stopped working. I am using the pwm splitter, and the computer is no longer reading a cpu fan rpm. The pump cable is plugged into the first channel, and the 2 fans on the next to channels. All the cables are secure, and the pwm splitter is plugged directly into my ud3h cpu_fan header. It is weird, I think the splitter is working because the 2 fans on channel 1 and 2 are still working.
Any suggestions?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *higgsboozin*
> 
> Hi guys,
> New to ocn, and was really happy with my h220 until the pump just stopped working. I am using the pwm splitter, and the computer is no longer reading a cpu fan rpm. The pump cable is plugged into the first channel, and the 2 fans on the next to channels. All the cables are secure, and the pwm splitter is plugged directly into my ud3h cpu_fan header. It is weird, I think the splitter is working because the 2 fans on channel 1 and 2 are still working.
> Any suggestions?


Try going directly from pump to cpu header without splitter.
In bios all is set to PWM mode? How are you controlling the speeds?


----------



## dramabeats

Just wanted to follow up on my pump issues, my new unit is completely silent and I've forgotten its there. Thanks to Bryan and the team at swiftech for the excellent support


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Try going directly from pump to cpu header without splitter.
> In bios all is set to PWM mode? How are you controlling the speeds?


I Have the same mobo and my pump died too, swiftech will help


----------



## Sazz

can you switch the fittings that this use? or no?


----------



## ghostrider85

Anyone tried this with z77e-itx yet? I'm ready to buy this cooler and my local microcenter have 6 of this in stock. I just want to make sure that this will going to fit in my mobo before i buy one. I have a samsung wonder ram.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> can you switch the fittings that this use? or no?


Nope, only time you can use different fittings is if you expand it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Anyone tried this with z77e-itx yet? I'm ready to buy this cooler and my local microcenter have 6 of this in stock. I just want to make sure that this will going to fit in my mobo before i buy one. I have a samsung wonder ram.


I believe it will fit the Z77e-itx but you may have to mount the hoses north/south to clear the RAM. Depending on which case you use, you may have to make or enlarge the cpu cutout on the mobo tray, namely in the Prodigy, because this uses the same backplate as the Apogee Drive II, and people have reported problems fitting the backplate in a prodigy. Alternatively, if you have another backplate that you know fits, you can probably just use it with the H220.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> can you switch the fittings that this use? or no?


The H220 has swiveling barbs that are not changeable for other fittings, sorry.


----------



## dansi

Do you guys recommend topping up the rad and bleeding the air before you first install it? The last few posts have pump noise problems.

I heard i can use distilled water, do i need to add some other ingredients like mould and kill coil etc?

Thanks! Cant wait for my shipment.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Do you guys recommend topping up the rad and bleeding the air before you first install it? The last few posts have pump noise problems.
> 
> I heard i can use distilled water, do i need to add some other ingredients like mould and kill coil etc?
> 
> Thanks! Cant wait for my shipment.


It's supposed to be all prefilled and ready to go, but checking the fill level and topping off can't hurt. Topping off with a small amount of distilled water is ok. If you drain it and refill, gotta get other additives to do that.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I believe it will fit the Z77e-itx but you may have to *mount the hoses north/south to clear the RAM.* Depending on which case you use, you may have to make or enlarge the cpu cutout on the mobo tray, namely in the Prodigy, because this uses the same backplate as the Apogee Drive II, and people have reported problems fitting the backplate in a prodigy. Alternatively, if you have another backplate that you know fits, you can probably just use it with the H220.


if i do that then i won't gonna be able to install a GPU. i have an SG08 case and the "mobo tray" is also the bottom of the case


----------



## Exolaris

I'm about a week in with my H220 and the pump is still so obnoxiously loud that I set a maximum PWM percentage in speedfan of 20% so that the pump RPMs won't go above 1400 or so (which is when the noise starts). I've spent a good deal of time running the pump at higher RPMs while tilting the case around, and giving the tubing some decent taps near the connecting points to try to get any air bubbles out. What would be my next step?


----------



## higgsboozin

Well I took everything apart, tried pump connector directly to CPU_FAN header and then hooked up the pwm splitter to the CPU_OPT fan header on my mb.
Now everything is working again, thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> does anyone know if swiftech's HQ in Long Beach, CA. have a physical store? can i just drive there and buy some of their stuffs?


We do have a physical business front here in Long Beach. However, we don't currently allow direct sales. We just aren't set up here for that kind of business and you'd be better off just purchasing from us online.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> I'm about a week in with my H220 and the pump is still so obnoxiously loud that I set a maximum PWM percentage in speedfan of 20% so that the pump RPMs won't go above 1400 or so (which is when the noise starts). I've spent a good deal of time running the pump at higher RPMs while tilting the case around, and giving the tubing some decent taps near the connecting points to try to get any air bubbles out. What would be my next step?


Have you tried the techniques that are given in the OP? If not, please give those a try. If they still don't work for you then please PM me and we'll see about getting your kit replaced. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## Hawxie

Would the stock H220, although with NF-F12's on, be able to cool a reference GTX 760, and a completely stock i7 3770 non k.

The clocks on the i7 range from 3.1-3.98 ghz.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Would the stock H220, although with NF-F12's on, be able to cool a reference GTX 760, and a completely stock i7 3770 non k.
> 
> The clocks on the i7 range from 3.1-3.98 ghz.


Yep, it would be fine. Specially at stock. If you try a heavy OC on both GPU and CPU then perhaps you would need to expand another 120, 140, or 240/280 mm radiator but in your case you should be fine.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, it would be fine. Specially at stock. If you try a heavy OC on both GPU and CPU then perhaps you would need to expand another 120, 140, or 240/280 mm radiator but in your case you should be fine.


Awesome!

Might be a while before I get whole thing bought and set up :/


----------



## Exolaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried the techniques that are given in the OP? If not, please give those a try. If they still don't work for you then please PM me and we'll see about getting your kit replaced. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of.


Upon further examination, it doesn't seem to be my pump. I pulled the fan connectors from the rad fans and the noise pretty much stopped. I could hear a slight motor sound from the pump at very high RPMs, but nothing like what I was hearing before. I did all the methods in the OP to free up air bubbles. At this point I believe it may just be the fans running at high RPMs causing vibrations in the somewhat flimsy mesh top of my case (HAF932). I tried to plug the pump straight into the CPU header and use the PWM splitter just for the 2 rad fans in a system fan port to decouple the fan RPMs from the pump RPMs, but the fans defaulted to full speed when I did that and I couldn't figure out a fix in speedfan.


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Do you guys recommend topping up the rad and bleeding the air before you first install it? The last few posts have pump noise problems.
> 
> I heard i can use distilled water, do i need to add some other ingredients like mould and kill coil etc?
> 
> Thanks! Cant wait for my shipment.


I have had two units, neither was noisy. the first ran two months, the second still running. they are/have been so quite I was unaware the first pump died when it went and probably spent a bit of time on there dead to my horror. no damage done though, and switch support was great in working with.

have not opened or drained my unit, though some time in the next two weeks i will be to add a gpu block. right now almost all the noise i hear out of my tower is the gpu.


----------



## Orlean

I have been following this thread closely for awhile even before my H220 purchase. I made a account so I could contribute my positive experience with it so far to offset the negative things with the premature pump noise/failures some people have been experiencing.

Installed in a Arc Midi R2 in a defualt configuration drawing cold air in from the top , it's been running about a month now with no abnormal noise from the pump or fans(knock on wood).

3570k running at 4.5ghz @ 1.258v temps reach 75c running a Prime95 Blend for a few hours.


The plan is to put the 7870 under water too if I ever decide to actually pull the trigger on actually doing it, as of now it's the loudest component in my rig.


----------



## tmsmith

Roughly how long should you test run the H220 out of the box? I can hear the pump purring away, which I assume means that liquid is making it to the pump. Would it make an awful, loud noise if it wasn't?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orlean*
> 
> I have been following this thread closely for awhile even before my H220 purchase. I made a account so I could contribute my positive experience with it so far to offset the negative things with the premature pump noise/failures some people have been experiencing.
> 
> Installed in a Arc Midi R2 in a defualt configuration drawing cold air in from the top , it's been running about a month now with no abnormal noise from the pump or fans(knock on wood).
> 
> 3570k running at 4.5ghz @ 1.258v temps reach 75c running a Prime95 Blend for a few hours.
> 
> The plan is to put the 7870 under water too if I ever decide to actually pull the trigger on actually doing it, as of now it's the loudest component in my rig.


The Arc Midi R2 filter is restrictive. I have mine set to exhaust.
with OC cpu, you will need to add another rad. best place is up front, so a 240 would be good.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Roughly how long should you test run the H220 out of the box? I can hear the pump purring away, which I assume means that liquid is making it to the pump. Would it make an awful, loud noise if it wasn't?


People's comments avg from no test to 3-24hrs of testing before install. I ran mine off and on thru a weekend in 3-8hr increments before feeling comfortable about the unit. Just looking for the obvious, leaks, loud noises, grinding, Low purring sounds right to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orlean*
> 
> I have been following this thread closely for awhile even before my H220 purchase. I made a account so I could contribute my positive experience with it so far to offset the negative things with the premature pump noise/failures some people have been experiencing.
> Installed in a Arc Midi R2 in a defualt configuration drawing cold air in from the top , it's been running about a month now with no abnormal noise from the pump or fans(knock on wood)..


Congrats and welcome, looks like another Sabertooth owner, You running 2 or 4 dimm on yours?


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> Upon further examination, it doesn't seem to be my pump. I pulled the fan connectors from the rad fans and the noise pretty much stopped. I could hear a slight motor sound from the pump at very high RPMs, but nothing like what I was hearing before. I did all the methods in the OP to free up air bubbles. At this point I believe it may just be the fans running at high RPMs causing vibrations in the somewhat flimsy mesh top of my case (HAF932). I tried to plug the pump straight into the CPU header and use the PWM splitter just for the 2 rad fans in a system fan port to decouple the fan RPMs from the pump RPMs, but the fans defaulted to full speed when I did that and I couldn't figure out a fix in speedfan.


Is one of the fans hooked to the red port of the splitter? That red port is the only port that will be able to control anything hooked up to it, not too sure but if nothing is hooked up there then its like hooking a fan directly to a molex.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The Arc Midi R2 filter is restrictive. I have mine set to exhaust.
> with OC cpu, you will need to add another rad. best place is up front, so a 240 would be good.


Umm not really, even with an OC the H220 is great for cooling as is.

Stay tuned peeps, in about a week I should have a 780 and 240mm rad added to the H200, also my 3770k is @4.7 1.368 vcore. temps max about 85-84 avg during this day in an enclosed room.


----------



## Watagump

I didn't test mine at all, its up to the manufacturer to do that. Never tested my H110 either, that's just how I roll.


----------



## TheGovernment

Me either, I took it out of the box, shook it around and installed it. No testing at all.


----------



## Caos

good, now start to have a noise in the pump. what would be the steps to remove the air bubble?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> good, now start to have a noise in the pump. what would be the steps to remove the air bubble?


The steps to remove it are posted in the OP. Please let me know if this helps you to get rid of the air in your pump and quiet it down.


----------



## Exolaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Is one of the fans hooked to the red port of the splitter? That red port is the only port that will be able to control anything hooked up to it, not too sure but if nothing is hooked up there then its like hooking a fan directly to a molex.
> Umm not really, even with an OC the H220 is great for cooling as is.
> 
> Stay tuned peeps, in about a week I should have a 780 and 240mm rad added to the H200, also my 3770k is @4.7 1.368 vcore. temps max about 85-84 avg during this day in an enclosed room.


Fairly certain. I pulled the pump connector from the splitter and moved one of the fan connectors to it.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> good, now start to have a noise in the pump. what would be the steps to remove the air bubble?


I'm sorry, but where is the OP? link?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I'm sorry, but where is the OP? link?


The first post in this thread.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I'm sorry, but where is the OP? link?


By OP he means original post. Just click on the page one icon at the top or bottom of the thread


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The first post in this thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> By OP he means original post. Just click on the page one icon at the top or bottom of the thread


ok thanks..


----------



## goddog

as I am about to expand beyond just the h220 and the Siftech Blue HydrX-PM2 is out of stock everywhere. what do you guys recommend using I was planning on using distilled water and a kill coil till i can find some Blue. however if you guys know something better or where to get some blue i am all ears


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> as I am about to expand beyond just the h220 and the Siftech Blue HydrX-PM2 is out of stock everywhere. what do you guys recommend using I was planning on using distilled water and a kill coil till i can find some Blue. however if you guys know something better or where to get some blue i am all ears


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swhypm2coh.html


----------



## goddog

hey thanks will be placing my order in the in just a bit


----------



## justanoldman

I would recommend everyone use the HydrX PM 2 since that is what the H220 was designed to use. However, if you end up not being able to get it, I would not recommend a kill coil. They can cause issues with nickel, and are limited in their scope. I would recommend distilled plus a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia.

While a kill coil can help with microorganisms it doesn't help with corrosion.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working


----------



## Orlean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The Arc Midi R2 filter is restrictive. I have mine set to exhaust.
> with OC cpu, you will need to add another rad. best place is up front, so a 240 would be good.


I noticed this too but the dust filter also restricts the hot air from escaping easily plus I would rather have cold air being drawn over the radiator. I haven't tested how restrictive it is but I can always take the top cover off only takes a few seconds when benching for best temperatures. As far as radiator space the 240mm is plenty for a overclocked 3570k, I'll only need to add another radiator when the GPU is added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Congrats and welcome, looks like another Sabertooth owner, You running 2 or 4 dimm on yours?


Thanks







Running 2 DIMM's of Gskill Sniper low Voltage 1600, the other two have the dust defender memory inserts in them.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I would recommend everyone use the HydrX PM 2 since that is what the H220 was designed to use. However, if you end up not being able to get it, I would not recommend a kill coil. They can cause issues with nickel, and are limited in their scope. I would recommend distilled plus a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia.
> 
> While a kill coil can help with microorganisms it doesn't help with corrosion.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working


Thats why if you only use copper you wont have problems with corrosion.


----------



## drnilly007

Anyone know what size the fill port is on the rad? Is it G1/4? Want to add a fill/drain port there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Anyone know what size the fill port is on the rad? Is it G1/4? Want to add a fill/drain port there.


Yes it is G 1/4. You should be able to use any standard fitting you want for your fill/ drain port.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes it is G 1/4. You should be able to use any standard fitting you want for your fill/ drain port.


Ok cool.
Does the stock stop plug have an o-ring on it?


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Ok cool.
> Does the stock stop plug have an o-ring on it?


Didn't see one on mine


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> Didn't see one on mine


all swiftech caps do ...... all of their fittings do....


----------



## mechwarrior

hi from down-under country (AUS) .
The h220 has finally arrived, hoping to get one tomorrow, I want to add my gtx 670 into the loop all i need is 3/8 barbs and 3/8 tubing? does wall thickness effect connections? i have a heat-killer waterblock.
will get distilled water for top up.
do i need any thing else?
hoping the temps are reasonable have an I7 [email protected] 4gig (1.32v) and a gtx 670 windforce 2 card.
been following this thread form the start read martin's review a few times.
really excited to get my feet wet.

thanking Swiftech for a great product and exceptional customer service in this thread.
WELL wish me luck for tomorrow.

ps: enjoyed reading everyone's comments and experience thus i decided to get into water cooling.


----------



## SteveHatcher

Hi Guys,

This H220 is a great product, temps on a CLP'd 4770K are remarkable around 70 with 1.25V prime 95. I didnt check pre de lid temps but I can assume it would be pushing 85-95... I have decided to mount my H220 properly, but this is my first watercooling part and I am a bit unsure as to how to do it. I want to thread the 2 pipes through the holes in the case so the radiator sits on the outside and the waterblock on the cpu. How do I go about disconnecting the tube without all the fluid spraying out eveywhere? I just want to disconnect each tube, thread it through the hole then reconnect it...

Thanks


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechwarrior*
> 
> hi from down-under country (AUS) .
> The h220 has finally arrived, hoping to get one tomorrow, I want to add my gtx 670 into the loop all i need is 3/8 barbs and 3/8 tubing? does wall thickness effect connections? i have a heat-killer waterblock.
> will get distilled water for top up.
> do i need any thing else?
> hoping the temps are reasonable have an I7 [email protected] 4gig (1.32v) and a gtx 670 windforce 2 card.
> been following this thread form the start read martin's review a few times.
> really excited to get my feet wet.
> 
> thanking Swiftech for a great product and exceptional customer service in this thread.
> WELL wish me luck for tomorrow.
> 
> ps: enjoyed reading everyone's comments and experience thus i decided to get into water cooling.


Look for 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD for compression fittings and tubing. If you are going to use barbs then you just look for any 3/8 tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteveHatcher*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> This H220 is a great product, temps on a CLP'd 4770K are remarkable around 70 with 1.25V prime 95. I didnt check pre de lid temps but I can assume it would be pushing 85-95... I have decided to mount my H220 properly, but this is my first watercooling part and I am a bit unsure as to how to do it. I want to thread the 2 pipes through the holes in the case so the radiator sits on the outside and the waterblock on the cpu. How do I go about disconnecting the tube without all the fluid spraying out eveywhere? I just want to disconnect each tube, thread it through the hole then reconnect it...
> 
> Thanks


To do that you'd have to drain it outside the case, reinstall the block and rad (make sure you keep the inlet to the block and rad set up the same), then set up a drain/fill port which you can access outside of your case, run your tubing and fill.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechwarrior*
> 
> hi from down-under country (AUS) .
> The h220 has finally arrived, hoping to get one tomorrow, I want to add my gtx 670 into the loop all i need is 3/8 barbs and 3/8 tubing? does wall thickness effect connections? i have a heat-killer waterblock.
> will get distilled water for top up.hoping the temps are reasonable have an I7 [email protected] 4gig (1.32v) and a gtx 670 windforce 2 card.


welcome and good luck with expansion, interesting reading and results for expansion here http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/ , its the 1st expansion test I have seen but looking for more info regarding expansion myself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> Didn't see one on mine


No, these particular plugs don't require an o-ring.


----------



## dansi

Thinking of getting a pair of these silverstone magnetic filters

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Filter-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372866116&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+filter

What do you guys think? Will it help with reducing the intake dust?

Just how does one clean the rad from dust after six months or so?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Thinking of getting a pair of these silverstone magnetic filters
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Filter-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372866116&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+filter
> 
> What do you guys think? Will it help with reducing the intake dust?
> 
> Just how does one clean the rad from dust after six months or so?


i wouldnt personally unless you were using more powerful fans like Gentle Typhoons. The helix fans work best with the least amount of restrictions.

I use this to clean my computer and radiators:
http://www.amazon.com/ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric-120-Volt/dp/B001J4ZOAW


----------



## bobsaget

Hello everyone,

i'm planning to purchase the h220 and install it in a bitfenix prodigy. I guess i won't have any issue regarding this case.
I was wondering though if i could install fans on the front of the case with the h220 on top of it?
My other remark deals with the compatibility with the P8Z77-i deluxe mobo from Asus. Will I have enough clearance with ram slots for instance?

thanks.

PS: i hope i made myself clear, i'm not a native speaker.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> i'm planning to purchase the h220 and install it in a bitfenix prodigy. I guess i won't have any issue regarding this case.
> I was wondering though if i could install fans on the front of the case with the h220 on top of it?
> My other remark deals with the compatibility with the P8Z77-i deluxe mobo from Asus. Will I have enough clearance with ram slots for instance?
> 
> thanks.
> 
> PS: i hope i made myself clear, i'm not a native speaker.


You might be able to install smaller 120 or 140mm fan, not a 200mm.


----------



## bobsaget

ok thanks.
I should build the system this we. If not, next week.
I keep you posted and will take some pictures









btw, is there a difference running the fans in a pull configuration instead of a push one?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> ok thanks.
> I should build the system this we. If not, next week.
> I keep you posted and will take some pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, is there a difference running the fans in a pull configuration instead of a push one?


You may have a fitment problem with the H220 backplate and the motherboard tray in the Prodigy. People said the Apogee Drive 2 backplate is too tall to fit standard in the prodigy, and I believe it is the same piece as the H220. That being said, the easiest solution is to cut a big hole in the mobo tray where the backplate would contact, thus making it an easy fit.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You may have a fitment problem with the H220 backplate and the motherboard tray in the Prodigy. People said the Apogee Drive 2 backplate is too tall to fit standard in the prodigy, and I believe it is the same piece as the H220. That being said, the easiest solution is to cut a big hole in the mobo tray where the backplate would contact, thus making it an easy fit.


Looks like this guy had no issue to fit the backplate:
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/14391-doing-it-right-bitfenix-prodigy/

i'll give it a try and see what happens


----------



## HCore

I finally make a decision to get this cooler & it is OOS everywhere with no ETA.


----------



## drnilly007

Hey Bram whats up with this part being made of aluminum really not great for copper based blocks due to erosion in a loop, but in effect would be awesome for the H220 fill/drain port I'm adding though.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8338/ex-tub-439/Swiftech_12_Aluminum_Remote_Fill-Port_Fitting_-_Black_12FPF-AL.html?tl=g30c101s460&id=wI9xpBk4&mv_pc=5850

Maybe you have some pull to get them to make it out of something else, I would avoid nickel as to keep the differing amounts of metal to a minimum. As I see an added drain fill port being a must have add-on for anyone expanding their H220 due to having to remove at least the stock rad, or worst case entire loop, to drain/fill.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Hey Bram whats up with this part being made of aluminum really not great for copper based blocks due to erosion in a loop, but in effect would be awesome for the H220 fill/drain port I'm adding though.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8338/ex-tub-439/Swiftech_12_Aluminum_Remote_Fill-Port_Fitting_-_Black_12FPF-AL.html?tl=g30c101s460&id=wI9xpBk4&mv_pc=5850
> 
> Maybe you have some pull to get them to make it out of something else, I would avoid nickel as to keep the differing amounts of metal to a minimum. As I see an added drain fill port being a must have add-on for anyone expanding their H220 due to having to remove at least the stock rad, or worst case entire loop, to drain/fill.


What makes you think I have any pull?







I'll look into it for you on Friday when I get back to work. We're closed tomorrow. Happy Fourth everyone!


----------



## drnilly007

Ok sweet man and Happy 4th to you to.

Plus... we all know you got pull


----------



## marc0053

I would like to reduce cpu temps further from the H220. Should i add another radiator?


----------



## drnilly007

One test I saw did not reduce temps by adding another radiator.

http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/2/


----------



## TheEnergy

For those of you guys that own a H220 and are using the PWM splitter:

Where did you guys mount the PWM splitter on the back of the motherboard tray? Did you mount it towards the optical drive bays on the back side or more towards the mobo tray behind the motherboard cut out?

I'm trying to find a space to route the fan 4 pin cables from my 4 helix fans (in push-pull) and CPU fan to get the BEST CABLE MANAGEMENT!

Let me know!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> One test I saw did not reduce temps by adding another radiator.
> 
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/2/


that does not make any since ~ more rad= more ability to dissipate heat. it may not do anything till it is under load however


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I would like to reduce cpu temps further from the H220. Should i add another radiator?


gains will be minimal, we're talking only a 1-2C improvement. You'll see the biggest benefit if you add something like your GPU in with the extra radiator.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> One test I saw did not reduce temps by adding another radiator.
> 
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/2/


If the cpu is overclocked like a AMD Vishera a 360mm radiator instead of the 240 would lead to a greater decline
Than 1-2 degrees Celsius. That is why general responses are not apropo always.
Of course high ambients or inadequate intake in the case could limit the benefit as well as a poorly mounted or poorly timmed water block could limit the benefit as well.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I would like to reduce cpu temps further from the H220. Should i add another radiator?


Granted this is only one review. http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/3/ What I did get from it was that swapping to a thicker radiator gave more benefit than adding too it. Stating that there are 100's too the contrary w/o linking even a few of those 100's adds no benefit to the conversation. I would much rather have half a dozen independent reviews vs 100's of 'he said-she said' comments from a forum regarding the subject. I linked that test review a couple days ago and got no response as I also was interested in expanding the loop but wanted more independent data if anyone had it. Until more independent reviewers actually expand the loop on the H220 people will just need to glean thru these and other forums and make a conscious decision for themselves.


----------



## gdubc

I believe justanoldman added a swiftech triple rad to his. Not positive though.


----------



## SteveHatcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> To do that you'd have to drain it outside the case, reinstall the block and rad (make sure you keep the inlet to the block and rad set up the same), then set up a drain/fill port which you can access outside of your case, run your tubing and fill.


Thanks for the response mate. Just so I dont stuff this up, you mean drain it like they do here: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/ ?

I am just not quite sure how I would refill it if once installed as that plug will be at the bottom and , well.. gravity..?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Granted this is only one review. http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/3/ What I did get from it was that *swapping to a thicker radiator gave more benefit than adding too it*. Stating that there are 100's too the contrary w/o linking even a few of those 100's adds no benefit to the conversation. I would much rather have half a dozen independent reviews vs 100's of 'he said-she said' comments from a forum regarding the subject. I linked that test review a couple days ago and got no response as I also was interested in expanding the loop but wanted more independent data if anyone had it. Until more independent reviewers actually expand the loop on the H220 people will just need to glean thru these and other forums and make a conscious decision for themselves.


your right there is not alot of good reviews out there. however let me put it this way
under short low level loads more rads will not help.

however under stress intensive programs ( say like video editing, blueray conversions, stress testing ect ) more rads will help

think about it this way. more rads = more surface area , more surface area = more area to transfer heat out of water and into the air, OR an ability to run your system with lower speed fans and gain silence.

so ( and this is where i assumed you were using cpu intensive programs, as this is OCN, however i could of been 100% wrong to do this ) if you are just browsing the webs it simply will not help your temps, newish games.... it may depending on the game, and of course your overclock, and it probably will help under load.

best source for reviews on water cooling is martins, period. none better on the webs.

read up on martins for the bold statement.
thicker rads are USUALLY not more helpful. that is a case of bigger is better mentality.
key word helpful.
you will usually get MUCH more benefit adding another thin rad then more thick rads esp for the cost ( i am assuming you are using a reasonable brand rad ) because the cost of a thicker rad is much more then a thin one AND the cost of the higher performance, and relatively high static pressure fans you need greatly out weigh the cost of a thin rad and decent fans.

a thicker rad takes much more static pressure to push air through it. also gennerally need to run your fans at higher speeds to get gains
Quote:


> The Monsta radiators, with a thickness of 80mm, are the first of their size on the market. Hence we were just as keen on finding out how they perform as the independent reviewers!
> The tests show that it has significantly increased flow rates than thinner radiators. The cooling performance increased greatly with increased fan speed. Sounds normal, but this radiator shows a different performance profile than standard radiators: At 500rpm the Monsta is slightly better than its 60mm brother, but with increasing fan speed the difference increases: At 800rpm the Monsta already performs much better, and at 1200rpm a Monsta radiator is performing almost as well as a 60mm thick radiator with one fan more, at the same fan speed!
> This is truly amazing, and all that at this affordable price!


source

the cost of this "extra performance" is loss of silence, which in the end is a personal choice.

most people dont stress their pcs like most on OCN. most only need air coolers. for most people, adding additional rads IS pointless.

however if you do cpu intensive programs adding rads most definitely helps.


----------



## Hawxie

Can I combine Distilled water along with the HydrX coolant?

I can't find any HydrX coolant here in DK :C


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Granted this is only one review. http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/3/ What I did get from it was that swapping to a thicker radiator gave more benefit than adding too it. Stating that there are 100's too the contrary w/o linking even a few of those 100's adds no benefit to the conversation. I would much rather have half a dozen independent reviews vs 100's of 'he said-she said' comments from a forum regarding the subject. I linked that test review a couple days ago and got no response as I also was interested in expanding the loop but wanted more independent data if anyone had it. Until more independent reviewers actually expand the loop on the H220 people will just need to glean thru these and other forums and make a conscious decision for themselves.


That was my point. starting with a 360mm radiator instead of the 240mm would have a better effect than say adding an extra 120mm radiator to a 240mm. Thickness of radiator has little effect on temps as surface area with fans is a more decisive factor. So getting the H320 would be a better stating point if you have the room in your case. That is what I am waiting to purchase.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Can I combine Distilled water along with the HydrX coolant?
> 
> I can't find any HydrX coolant here in DK :C


water is the #1 ingredient in any major brand coolant so... yes. make sure you use distilled though. dont buy into "ultra pure water" it does not work ( there are other coolants IE mineral oil )


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Can I combine Distilled water along with the HydrX coolant?
> 
> I can't find any HydrX coolant here in DK :C


Methinks something is rotten in the state of Denmark. Willie Shakespeare.


----------



## bobsaget

I took some time to read this thread. I got worried regarding all the various problems that users seem to encounter with the h220.
The h220 is impossible to buy online where i live, but i know a local store where i should be able to buy it, at the cost of a probably less effective customer support. To that extent, if my unit doesn't work properly, will i have to send it back to the US? Or is there a Swiftech RMA center in Europe?


----------



## Mega Man

pretty sure there is an rma center locally, ill let bramsli pop in there. but you have to remember most people given the chance will complain. next to none will praise


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pretty sure there is an rma center locally, ill let bramsli pop in there. but you have to remember *most people given the chance will complain. next to none will praise*


right. i'm planning to go get it tomorrow, i'll try to negotiate with the salesman a local rma, just in case..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I took some time to read this thread. I got worried regarding all the various problems that users seem to encounter with the h220.
> The h220 is impossible to buy online where i live, but i know a local store where i should be able to buy it, at the cost of a probably less effective customer support. To that extent, if my unit doesn't work properly, will i have to send it back to the US? Or is there a Swiftech RMA center in Europe?


For RMA support in Europe, Bacata deals with our customers. So yes, you do have local RMA support in Europe.


----------



## os2wiz

[quote name="Teufelshunde" url=" Duplicate sorry


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> water is the #1 ingredient in any major brand coolant so... yes. make sure you use distilled though. dont buy into "ultra pure water" it does not work ( there are other coolants IE mineral oil )


By that did you mean I shouldn't even consider it?

Because its the only distilled water they have, I'm trying to order everything from 1 site :/


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your right there is not alot of good reviews out there. however let me put it this way
> under short low level loads more rads will not help.
> 
> however under stress intensive programs ( say like video editing, blueray conversions, stress testing ect ) more rads will help
> 
> think about it this way. more rads = more surface area , more surface area = more area to transfer heat out of water and into the air, OR an ability to run your system with lower speed fans and gain silence.
> 
> so ( and this is where i assumed you were using cpu intensive programs, as this is OCN, however i could of been 100% wrong to do this ) if you are just browsing the webs it simply will not help your temps, newish games.... it may depending on the game, and of course your overclock, and it probably will help under load.
> 
> best source for reviews on water cooling is martins, period. none better on the webs.
> 
> read up on martins for the bold statement.
> thicker rads are USUALLY not more helpful. that is a case of bigger is better mentality.
> key word helpful.
> you will usually get MUCH more benefit adding another thin rad then more thick rads esp for the cost ( i am assuming you are using a reasonable brand rad ) because the cost of a thicker rad is much more then a thin one AND the cost of the higher performance, and relatively high static pressure fans you need greatly out weigh the cost of a thin rad and decent fans.
> 
> a thicker rad takes much more static pressure to push air through it. also gennerally need to run your fans at higher speeds to get gains
> source
> 
> the cost of this "extra performance" is loss of silence, which in the end is a personal choice.
> 
> most people dont stress their pcs like most on OCN. most only need air coolers. for most people, adding additional rads IS pointless.
> 
> So if you want your temps lower with an ultra thick radiator you can do so. The proviso is you must enoy jet takeoff noise at JFK. LOL:rolleyes


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> By that did you mean I shouldn't even consider it?
> 
> Because its the only distilled water they have, I'm trying to order everything from 1 site :/


He was saying that adding distilled is fine. There are other waters out there that claim to be cleaner and more "pure" than distilled, which would be a waste in this case. Distilled is all you need to add to the existing Hydrx PM.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> He was saying that adding distilled is fine. There are other waters out there that claim to be cleaner and more "pure" than distilled, which would be a waste in this case. Distilled is all you need to add to the existing Hydrx PM.


Ok thanks







, I'm in need of more coolant, because I will be ordering the H220 and a 670 waterblock, for a upcoming 760 4gb







.


----------



## CM Aztec

i just bought the h220, is there a way i can watercool my sapphire 7970 vapor x ghz edition? it uses custom pcb so does anyone know?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I believe justanoldman added a swiftech triple rad to his. Not positive though.


I added a Swiftech 360 and 140 rad to the H220, along with my GTX 690. See pic below:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Adding the 140 was mostly because I wanted to see if I could do it, and I can't say whether it helped cpu temps much since I didn't test it enough. Adding the 360 rad obviously helped though.

How much additional rads will help depends on a ton of variables. For another 360, in one rig it could help just a couple c, and in another rig it could be 5 or 6c. What fans were used, what speed, how much restriction did you add, how exactly did you change the air flow of the whole rig, etc.?

Regarding problems with units, right now I have one unexpanded H220 in a rig, and the expanded one in another. I have been using them since they became available from Swiftech, and no major issues so far.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> i just bought the h220, is there a way i can watercool my sapphire 7970 vapor x ghz edition? it uses custom pcb so does anyone know?


\

I'd like to know the same, except for a Boost. Best I can tell is having to use a universal block then heatsinks on the VRMs, though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> i just bought the h220, is there a way i can watercool my sapphire 7970 vapor x ghz edition? it uses custom pcb so does anyone know?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> \
> 
> I'd like to know the same, except for a Boost. Best I can tell is having to use a universal block then heatsinks on the VRMs, though


I think there are komodos (gorgeous) blocks from Swifttech to the standard 7970 pcb. I am using two of nvidia versions and not only are they simply beautiful but do work amazingly good and with very low restriction. Flow rate after adding a second gpu (both with komodos) and a 140 mm rad to the loop (that already have two 240 mm rads and it is pump by a Swiftech 655 pmw) went down from 1 GPM to 0.9 GPM. Temps on the titans are around 31-33 and 33-35 C idle - barely 1-3 degrees higher than water temp on the loop) to barely 40 C under stress.

very happy with the blocks and system

hope that helps

Gabriel

http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-hd7900.aspx


----------



## mechwarrior

hi guys well tried installing my graphics card into the h220 waterloop, and screwed up removed my cooler from my card and applied thermal pads and paste then tried mounting the water block and none of
the holes matched?
I have a gigabyte Gtx 670 windforce 2 bought a heatkiller gtx 670 water block, i checked on the net not much info on the windforce 2 card, i believed it was on a reference pcb. the windforce 3 uses a gtx 680 pcb.
SO now i have emptied the h220 and have a heatkiller paperweight.
Does any one know what water block would fit a gigabyte gtx 670 wind force 2 card?

Thanking anyone who can help.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechwarrior*
> 
> hi guys well tried installing my graphics card into the h220 waterloop, and screwed up removed my cooler from my card and applied thermal pads and paste then tried mounting the water block and none of
> the holes matched?
> I have a gigabyte Gtx 670 windforce 2 bought a heatkiller gtx 670 water block, i checked on the net not much info on the windforce 2 card, i believed it was on a reference pcb. the windforce 3 uses a gtx 680 pcb.
> SO now i have emptied the h220 and have a heatkiller paperweight.
> Does any one know what water block would fit a gigabyte gtx 670 wind force 2 card?
> 
> Thanking anyone who can help.


This:
http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx
with these:
http://www.swiftech.com/mc800smccoolingkit.aspx

AFAIK there isn't a full cover block solution for the windforce 2 670. The latter link mentions an 8800GTX but they will fit and are needed on the current models as well.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I added a Swiftech 360 and 140 rad to the H220, along with my GTX 690. See pic below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the 140 was mostly because I wanted to see if I could do it, and I can't say whether it helped cpu temps much since I didn't test it enough. Adding the 360 rad obviously helped though.


Ty for the info, did you replace the original H220 rad in your picture with an MCR-X (QP or XP), yours has ports coming out the top vs H220 rad coming out the end. If you did was it to fine tune your utilization of Noctua fans ??


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteveHatcher*
> 
> Thanks for the response mate. Just so I dont stuff this up, you mean drain it like they do here: http://www.thinkcomputers.org/swiftech-h220-adding-to-the-loop/ ?
> 
> I am just not quite sure how I would refill it if once installed as that plug will be at the bottom and , well.. gravity..?


Yup, gravity. Just install a large barb 1/2" ID into where the fill port hole is, then run tubing as long as you think it will be safe from components in case you spill some. If you can turn you case so that fill port is the highest spot in your case, you could try removing the barb and putting the original fitting back.

My plan is to do as I told you but leave the hose and fitting in the fill port and close off the end with one of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14601/ex-tub-1040/Enzotech_G14_Barb_Stop_Fitting_w_Cap_-_12_ID_-_Matte_Black_BNPH-ID12-G14.html?id=mLnhsdmw&mv_pc=1990
It would make future servicing very easy.

I'll post pics ASAP when I install another 240 rad, new tubing (blue to match mobo),distilled, gpu block, and fill/drain port as stated above. I'll post temps too.
Current temps 4.7 1.37v= avg 82c but its really hot right now (92f outside), no AC, fans set to silent, gpu @73c, and [email protected] running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Can I combine Distilled water along with the HydrX coolant?
> 
> I can't find any HydrX coolant here in DK :C


The H220 actually uses HydrX *2* which is sold out in the US too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> i just bought the h220, is there a way i can watercool my sapphire 7970 vapor x ghz edition? it uses custom pcb so does anyone know?


Nope, your gonna need to use a universal block and heatsinks.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Ty for the info, did you replace the original H220 rad in your picture with an MCR-X (QP or XP), yours has ports coming out the top vs H220 rad coming out the end. If you did was it to fine tune your utilization of Noctua fans ??


The rads I use are all the QP ones, like the H220 stock one. My PSU is quite long so I felt better with a rad that had the ports on top so I switched the stock 240 with the one you see in the pic, they are basically the same thing. The QP series are made for quiet, slower fans which is perfect for me since I run the fans at under 1000 rpm.


----------



## bobsaget

Are there any temp differences running the fans in a pull configuration instead of a push one? (as an exhaust, from inside to the outside of the rig)? thx


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The rads I use are all the QP ones, like the H220 stock one. My PSU is quite long so I felt better with a rad that had the ports on top so I switched the stock 240 with the one you see in the pic, they are basically the same thing. The QP series are made for quiet, slower fans which is perfect for me since I run the fans at under 1000 rpm.


thanks again, I have the NZXT 630 and same psu and like the idea of top ports, something I will be looking into as I venture into gpu cooling in the future.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> By that did you mean I shouldn't even consider it?
> 
> Because its the only distilled water they have, I'm trying to order everything from 1 site :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> He was saying that adding distilled is fine. There are other waters out there that claim to be cleaner and more "pure" than distilled, which would be a waste in this case. Distilled is all you need to add to the existing Hydrx PM.






what he said. i was stating this is useless, or this... i could go on.
SOURCE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> \
> 
> I'd like to know the same, except for a Boost. Best I can tell is having to use a universal block then heatsinks on the VRMs, though


that is it
although some companies have started making blocks for specific cards ( IE the DD XFX ones )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Nope, your gonna need to use a universal block and heatsinks.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Are there any temp differences running the fans in a pull configuration instead of a push one? (as an exhaust, from inside to the outside of the rig)? thx


can be. depends on lots of things.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Are there any temp differences running the fans in a pull configuration instead of a push one? (as an exhaust, from inside to the outside of the rig)? thx


I didn't get any temp difference between the 2. Same with trying intake or exhaust.


----------



## bobsaget

ok ty


----------



## Ragsters

Any news yet on the H320?


----------



## Caos

good day, which is the normal sound h220 pump? some video?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Any news yet on the H320?


Unfortunately I have no news on when these will be available that I'm able to give out.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately I have no news on when these will be available that I'm able to give out.












Thanks for replying!


----------



## bobsaget

Got the h220 today, everything is ready to start the build tomorrow








Here is a pic of the new components i will use (bitfenix prodigy, p8z77-i deluxe, sandisk ultra plus ssd 256 gb, h220).
I also will take some components of my current rig, including i5 2500k, 2*8gb of crucial elite 1866mhz RAM, gigabyte gtx 660ti winforce 2x)











*Add me*


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Got the h220 today, everything is ready to start the build tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of the new components i will use (bitfenix prodigy, p8z77-i deluxe, sandisk ultra plus ssd 256 gb, h220).
> I also will take some components of my current rig, including i5 2500k, 2*8gb of crucial elite 1866mhz RAM, gigabyte gtx 660ti winforce 2x)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Add me*


Looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished build. I'm considering doing an SFF build of my own and the Prodigy will likely be my case of choice too. Let me know if you have any issues or concerns.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> good day, which is the normal sound h220 pump? some video?


Depends on the speed. Mine at 1200 rpm or so is pretty much silent. Full speed, to me its pretty annoying, its like a high speed buzzing sound.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished build. I'm considering doing an SFF build of my own and the Prodigy will likely be my case of choice too. Let me know if you have any issues or concerns.


i'm currently thinking over the integration of the h220.
Because i want to run two 120mm front intake fans, i will to have to put the helix fans outside the case, and the radiator inside. But there are some metal pieces of the case between the rad and the fans, which is why i wil also have to put the reservoir upside down. Is it a problem?
ty


----------



## Molokou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> i'm currently thinking over the integration of the h220.
> Because i want to run two 120mm front intake fans, i will to have to put the helix fans outside the case, and the radiator inside. But there are some metal pieces of the case between the rad and the fans, which is why i wil also have to put the reservoir upside down. Is it a problem?
> ty


I had a situation like that with my unit and the CM HAF-X









Because of the rad holder, the fans are a little bit out of alignment:



And I had to put the reservoir through a hole from the rad holder and the rest of the chassis. It works like a charm!





All of that to keep my P/P config without having to flip the rad


----------



## APhamX

I'm thinking of purchasing this. I recently purchased a 650d. Think this will be hassle free and good to go with my case?

EDIT: Other forums said it will take a bit of modding for it to fit? But on this forum apparently some people have it setup, but was it mod free?

I was also reading that the 650d was bad for air cooling and watercooling. Since I already bought it, can anyone tell me how much better this is compared to my aging antec 900?


----------



## kikibgd

i dont know about them but i was able too keep my gtx590 on 85c during summer and room temps of 30-34c


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i dont know about them but i was able too keep my gtx590 on 85c during summer and room temps of 30-34c


Well that is high for a 590 with those ambient.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> I'm thinking of purchasing this. I recently purchased a 650d. Think this will be hassle free and good to go with my case?
> 
> EDIT: Other forums said it will take a bit of modding for it to fit? But on this forum apparently some people have it setup, but was it mod free?
> 
> I was also reading that the 650d was bad for air cooling and watercooling. Since I already bought it, can anyone tell me how much better this is compared to my aging antec 900?


Antec 900 is just bad from the start. 650D looks good, but lacks ability for good cooling. As the 650D is currently overpriced for what it offers, compared to other case for much less.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Well that is high for a 590 with those ambient.
> Antec 900 is just bad from the start. 650D looks good, but lacks ability for good cooling. As the 650D is currently overpriced for what it offers, compared to other case for much less.


But, but.. It looks so nice. I was able to blow 125 on one on corsair's website. It was either the 600t or the 650d at that price range. Would it be worth the return to get something else at that price range?


----------



## justanoldman

I got my Switch 810 on sale for $150, it works well for water cooling. You can do a triple rad up top and put the stock H220 rad in the bottom with a little modding if you want.


----------



## Phelan

+1 for the switch. Shop around and you can find it now for about $120-130 on sale. Or the new Phantom 530 if you like the looks (I do).


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Depends on the speed. Mine at 1200 rpm or so is pretty much silent. Full speed, to me its pretty annoying, its like a high speed buzzing sound.


the same for me, at 3000 rpm is heard quite the pump, I had to go down to 2350 rpm. much attempt to remove the air bubble, it would be good to try removing all the liquid in the pump and reloading? I'm pretty far away to send back my h220, or I'll have to live with it.


----------



## dansi

finally it arrived!

spent last 2 hr checking and testing it outside the casing. here are my thoughts for those interested.

-build quality feels very solid, however QC seems rough. the packing was damaged on the edges, the recycled cardboard has sorta melted and flaked, leaving tiny brown paper pieces and residual on the h220, especially the tubing. had to work to wipe them off. lga2011 ziplock was torn and the screws fell out, lucky none missing. the screws and springs themselves has those cheap rough textures. there are also some scuffed paint on the pump. but lucky the rad fins are fine not bent. the bubble bag is just too thin. the styrofoam is also too thin and dont really prevent the tubing at the pump bards from pressing against the pump, caused 2 small bent marks on my tubing. I think the packaging could do with some work for better protection.

-overall it feels like a shot back to the old days when PC diy was new and growing for the masses, a lot of ideas but generally rough in quality. Swiftech is a small specialised company and no Corsair's riches. I hope Gabe and gang continue to grow and make it big! Maybe you can sell the H220 idea to oems as what Asetek has done.









-the helix fans have surprisingly powerful pressure yet quiet. coolermaster fans these are not. the build quality is on the cheap and light side. one of them when tilted, made an interval ticking sound.

-pump made some noise at full speed. not sure how it should sound. but i expect when put it into my casing, it should not be audible or cause nuisance. just in case, i spent 20mins to shake and tilted the rad and also pressed the tubing to get air bubbles out. however do i need to top up distilled water?

-have ran the pump at full speed outside the casing for 40+ mins, no leaks, is it safe to go now?

I am excited to replace my TR SA, hopefully it pays off. Swiftech box mention H220 beating the NHD14.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I got my Switch 810 on sale for $150, it works well for water cooling. You can do a triple rad up top and put the stock H220 rad in the bottom with a little modding if you want.


Just curious about what you might be planning on to replace that switch?


----------



## TheGovernment

I had a switch 810. It was a great case but if you want more than 2 rads, look elsewhere. I ended up with a 900D as it was much to cramped for 3 rads in the switch. For 2 rads though, it's a perfect size. /i had no complaints with the switch.


----------



## Phelan

Or, you know...
just mod the case to fit stuff, like twin 480 rads







.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## bobsaget

Just finished the build, i'm installing the system. Everything seems to be working fine, but the pump is quite noisy (continuous buzzing sound)









i'll post some pics later.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Just finished the build, i'm installing the system. Everything seems to be working fine, but the pump is quite noisy (continuous buzzing sound)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll post some pics later.


Is your res pointed up? Buzzing sound is usually air bubbles. IF you don't mind, try the instructions in the first post of this thread (the OP) for moving the air out of the pump.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just curious about what you might be planning on to replace that switch?


?
I wasn't aware that I was replacing it. I have thought about what I want to do for an over the top build some day, but that would probably take a Caselabs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I had a switch 810. It was a great case but if you want more than 2 rads, look elsewhere. I ended up with a 900D as it was much to cramped for 3 rads in the switch. For 2 rads though, it's a perfect size. /i had no complaints with the switch.


I would agree, the 810 is perfect for a 360+240, or two 240s. You can also fit a single rad in the back if you want. I did a 140 back there, but it didn't fit too well, so I would have gone with a 120 if I did it again.

The rad in back is not really necessary though, I think people will get good results with a 360+240 with their chip and a couple gpus.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

After operating my H220 for a few days 24/7 i have to say this. After owning an H100 (shortly after they were released), this thing blows it out of the water. I'm talking a grand slam over the green monster for a world series win.

Now i did have my H100 as exhaust, where as my H220 is intake


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Is your res pointed up? Buzzing sound is usually air bubbles. IF you don't mind, try the instructions in the first post of this thread (the OP) for moving the air out of the pump.


I installed the res pointed up. I'm going to follow the instructions on the OP and keep you posted.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I installed the res pointed up. I'm going to follow the instructions on the OP and keep you posted.


Let me know if you have any questions or concerns about the process and let me know if it resolves your issue.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> ?
> I wasn't aware that I was replacing it. I have thought about what I want to do for an over the top build some day, but that would probably take a Caselabs.


Whoa... caselabs merlin sm8 looks like a killer case!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> But, but.. It looks so nice. I was able to blow 125 on one on corsair's website. It was either the 600t or the 650d at that price range. Would it be worth the return to get something else at that price range?


You'll have to pay return shipping mostly. That alone makes not worth it. 240rad on top and 180 or 200mm in front. Thats your expansion.
$100 gets you Fractal Arc Midi R2.


----------



## tmsmith

Hi all,
Just joined the H220 club! Installed in a Corsair 900D. The only issue I'm having is an annoying hum (almost a rattling sound). It seems to be coming from the pump (80% sure its here) or the fans. It's not LOUD but it's certainly there. Should I be cautious or is this just the sound of water cooling? I admit that I'm more used to the sound of rushing air since I came from an Antec 1200 full of case fans. Is there a way I can isolate the issue and figure out what exactly is making the noise?

Any info would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Whoa... caselabs merlin sm8 looks like a killer case!


I would also keep an eye on this Enthoo primo:

http://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1

Looks like a hell of a case for WC.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Hi all,
> Just joined the H220 club! Installed in a Corsair 900D. The only issue I'm having is an annoying hum (almost a rattling sound). It seems to be coming from the pump (80% sure its here) or the fans. It's not LOUD but it's certainly there. Should I be cautious or is this just the sound of water cooling? I admit that I'm more used to the sound of rushing air since I came from an Antec 1200 full of case fans. Is there a way I can isolate the issue and figure out what exactly is making the noise?
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated!


i've installed my h220 today and just reported the exact same issue (i hesitated between pump and fans, but having stopped them for 30 secs, i'm sure it's the pump).
I was advised to follow the instructions on the first page.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Hi all,
> Just joined the H220 club! Installed in a Corsair 900D. The only issue I'm having is an annoying hum (almost a rattling sound). It seems to be coming from the pump (80% sure its here) or the fans. It's not LOUD but it's certainly there. Should I be cautious or is this just the sound of water cooling? I admit that I'm more used to the sound of rushing air since I came from an Antec 1200 full of case fans. Is there a way I can isolate the issue and figure out what exactly is making the noise?
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated!


You can try running the pump at maximum speed (around 3000 rmp) to bleed the bubbles out of the system. In the OP you will find further instructions about noise in the h220.


----------



## bobsaget

I'll try to fix the pump noise tomorrow, quite tired right now








Here are a few pics of the build

















i5 2500k
crucial ballistix elite 1866mhz
gigabyte gtx 660ti windforce 2x
asus p8z77-i deluxe
sandisk ultra plus 256gb
seasonic x-series 760w

bitfenix prodigy white + Phobya g-Silent 180mm 700 rpm + NB e-Loop 120mm 800rpm + Swiftech H220


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would also keep an eye on this Enthoo primo:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1
> 
> Looks like a hell of a case for WC.


Looks like a real nice case but you can fit more rads in the 900D... and quite a few more!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Looks like a real nice case but you can fit more rads in the 900D... and quite a few more!


Really? This thing can place 480 mm top and bottom with still room in front and rear for two additional 140 mm and another at the hd bay (240 mm). The Corsair will also fit 2x 480 mm and 1x 140mm rear and 240 mm in front. But it doesn't look like the 900D will fit that much more rad space (might even fit less...). Am I missing something here?


----------



## tmsmith

Thanks all for the post. I just disconnected both fans and ran the pump only at full speed. It sounds like a very low stead hum at 3000RPMs. I'm assuming this is what it's suppose to sound like.

After unplugging the pump and running only the rad fans it sounds like the racket is coming from the fan themselves. The screws to the case seem to be tight. Could it be a bad fan? I mounted like such with a pull configuration.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would also keep an eye on this Enthoo primo:
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1
> 
> Looks like a hell of a case for WC.


Wow, that is a beast of a case! Larger than i like really but impressive options for extreme WC.


----------



## confed

Just finished installing my H220 in my case. It was not a fun task considering my motherboard. Could not mount it in the correct spot so I had to move it away from the motherboard. Didnt really line up correctly. Looks good and is definitely a lot more quiet compared to my old Thermaltake Frio. Eventually I am looking to expand to include my current gpu or a new gpu later on down the road.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Thanks all for the post. I just disconnected both fans and ran the pump only at full speed. It sounds like a very low stead hum at 3000RPMs. I'm assuming this is what it's suppose to sound like.
> 
> After unplugging the pump and running only the rad fans it sounds like the racket is coming from the fan themselves. The screws to the case seem to be tight. Could it be a bad fan? I mounted like such with a pull configuration.


Looks great! By the way, it's probably a bad fan and we can replace it for you. Just send an email to [email protected], along with your invoice for the purchase of your kit. I'll take care of getting you a replacement fan on Monday when I get in.


----------



## Dizz22r

Gabe any word on the h320? It's july! Want my h320 with sata connector!


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Gabe any word on the h320? It's july! Want my h320 with sata connector!


Please confirm Mr. Switftech, I am extremely interested in this version.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Really? This thing can place 480 mm top and bottom with still room in front and rear for two additional 140 mm and another at the hd bay (240 mm). The Corsair will also fit 2x 480 mm and 1x 140mm rear and 240 mm in front. But it doesn't look like the 900D will fit that much more rad space (might even fit less...). Am I missing something here?


480 top and bottom, 220 front, 220 bottom on the back by the PS and a 140 exhaust, as well there is a spot you could fit a 220 on the back if you take out all the drive trays right next to the front 220. You "could" have all that in at once if you could plumb it right. You could easily fit the 2 x 480's, 2x 220 and 1 x 140 in the same case with not many problems. I know because I checked myself and had them all in there


----------



## bobsaget

So i followed the instructions to reduce the noise of the pump.
I think it's more silent now, though i can still hear a constant noise when the system is running. It's my first wc setup so it may be normal.

With the cpu fan set at "normal" setting in the bios, the pump runs at 2000rpm when the system is idling. In this situation, the pump make a noise that i can barely hear over the noise of my front 700rpm 180mm fan. And the two helix fans even seem louder than the pump.
So the pump is not dead silent but slighty audible.

What do you guys think?


----------



## dansi

finally installed!
i report good news.

load linX temps with all 6 cores at 4.5ghz improved over TR SA. H220 is about 4-5 degree Celsius better and with a slightly more pleasant sound profile! granted my TR SA was re-mounted half a year back, the older TIM and dust may hinder its cooling.

Overall i feel good with this buy. I can even smell the smell of new electronics filtering through.









Hopefully it will not develop pump noise or the Helix fans dying.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> So i followed the instructions to reduce the noise of the pump.
> I think it's more silent now, though i can still hear a constant noise when the system is running. It's my first wc setup so it may be normal.
> 
> With the cpu fan set at "normal" setting in the bios, the pump runs at 2000rpm when the system is idling. In this situation, the pump make a noise that i can barely hear over the noise of my front 700rpm 180mm fan. And the two helix fans even seem louder than the pump.
> So the pump is not dead silent but slighty audible.
> 
> What do you guys think?


That's about the way it should be. Stephen and Gabe designed the pump so that the noise from our fans would be louder than the pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> 480 top and bottom, 220 front, 220 bottom on the back by the PS and a 140 exhaust, as well there is a spot you could fit a 220 on the back if you take out all the drive trays right next to the front 220. You "could" have all that in at once if you could plumb it right. You could easily fit the 2 x 480's, 2x 220 and 1 x 140 in the same case with not many problems. I know because I checked myself and had them all in there


Cool! Good to know.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's about the way it should be. Stephen and Gabe designed the pump so that the noise from our fans would be louder than the pump.


ok thanks +rep.
The fans are too loud for me, i think i'm going to change them next week.

apart from the fans, everything's running great, i'm going to do some benchmarks on my 2500k tonight.


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's about the way it should be. Stephen and Gabe designed the pump so that the noise from our fans would be louder than the pump.


If this is ture, then you've got something great. The pump was always making noise in my old loops. I'm about to buy an H220 for my newest rig here in a few weeks and I'm getting really excited.


----------



## TheEnergy

HEY GUYS, can I get some extra input?

I just put two-extra Swiftech helix fans on my radiator for my h220.

As I was screwing down one of the helix fans the black fan housing kind of cracked on one side....

I didn't think I torqued it that hard but anyway,....

would you guys be anal about this?

The fans are both screwed in but the fact that the black housing on one of the helix fans is cracked is kind of bugging me...

....should I order a new fan or just keep it the way it is?

What do you guys think?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> HEY GUYS, can I get some extra input?
> 
> I just put two-extra Swiftech helix fans on my radiator for my h220.
> 
> As I was screwing down one of the helix fans the black fan housing kind of cracked on one side....
> 
> I didn't think I torqued it that hard but anyway,....
> 
> would you guys be anal about this?
> 
> The fans are both screwed in but the fact that the black housing on one of the helix fans is cracked is kind of bugging me...
> 
> ....should I order a new fan or just keep it the way it is?
> 
> What do you guys think?


I would take it off, glue the crack, let it dry, and run that baby. The crack could cause extra vibration and noise later so glue it, but otherwise it's likely fine.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I would take it off, glue the crack, let it dry, and run that baby. The crack could cause extra vibration and noise later so glue it, but otherwise it's likely fine.


Superglue to the rescue


----------



## tmsmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Thanks all for the post. I just disconnected both fans and ran the pump only at full speed. It sounds like a very low stead hum at 3000RPMs. I'm assuming this is what it's suppose to sound like.
> 
> After unplugging the pump and running only the rad fans it sounds like the racket is coming from the fan themselves. The screws to the case seem to be tight. Could it be a bad fan? I mounted like such with a pull configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! By the way, it's probably a bad fan and we can replace it for you. Just send an email to [email protected], along with your invoice for the purchase of your kit. I'll take care of getting you a replacement fan on Monday when I get in.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bryan! I'll see if I can narrow down if its just one or both. In my early testing it seems to be both but I find it unlikely. I'll shoot you email as soon as I can. Thanks!


----------



## bobsaget

I did some oc on my 2500k this afternoon.

I didn't push the cpu to its limits yet, but i'm quite satisfied for the moment.

- 4,3ghz @ 1,29v
- load line calibration set to medium (vdrop @ 1.25v with full load on occt)
- temps get stabilized around 60°c (more like 57 58) with the cpu fan header set to "standard" in bios. The system is audible but not loud.

Does it seem ok to you?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I did some oc on my 2500k this afternoon.
> 
> I didn't push the cpu to its limits yet, but i'm quite satisfied for the moment.
> 
> - 4,3ghz @ 1,29v
> - load line calibration set to medium (vdrop @ 1.25v with full load on occt)
> - temps get stabilized around 60°c (more like 57 58) with the cpu fan header set to "standard" in bios. The system is audible but not loud.
> 
> Does it seem ok to you?


Temps seem excellent, i don't know sandy too well but i wonder if voltage sounds a little high?


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone have any advice for installing the CPU block of the H220 without hassle?

My lga 1150 backplate keeps falling off the back of the motherboard (the sticky tape is NOT good enough) when I try to re-apply the thermal paste & re-mount the h220 CPU block.

Could one use electrical tape to tape the backplate securely to the motherboard temporarily or is there another method or some other tape that is better?

I had to literally flip my computer upward with 1 hand because the backplate fell off when I was installing my CPU block last night. then I had to maneuver the backplate with one hand and had one hand on the CPU block applying pressure so the seal wouldn't "break"


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone have any advice for installing the CPU block of the H220 without hassle?
> 
> My lga 1150 backplate keeps falling off the back of the motherboard (the sticky tape is NOT good enough) when I try to re-apply the thermal paste & re-mount the h220 CPU block.
> 
> Could one use electrical tape to tape the backplate securely to the motherboard temporarily or is there another method or some other tape that is better?
> 
> I had to literally flip my computer upward with 1 hand because the backplate fell off when I was installing my CPU block last night. then I had to maneuver the backplate with one hand and had one hand on the CPU block applying pressure so the seal wouldn't "break"


I thought about taping mine too, it wouldn't be so bad if the alignment of the holes would stay put and it wouldn't fall off as soon as you try to screw it down


----------



## drnilly007

I just held the backplate in place then got 2 screws attached on 2 opposite corner then went from there.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone have any advice for installing the CPU block of the H220 without hassle?My lga 1150 backplate keeps falling off the back of the motherboard (the sticky tape is NOT good enough) when I try to re-apply the thermal paste & re-mount the h220 CPU block.Could one use electrical tape to tape the backplate securely to the motherboard temporarily or is there another method or some other tape that is better?I had to literally flip my computer upward with 1 hand because the backplate fell off when I was installing my CPU block last night. then I had to maneuver the backplate with one hand and had one hand on the CPU block applying pressure so the seal wouldn't "break"


I have the same board/cpu.. I used pencils across the back taped to the sabertooth back plate/H220 plate, you can also build up a strip of tape were needed to offset depth differences. (am sure popsicle sticks would work also)







(I stayed away from any electrical contact spots)


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> HEY GUYS, can I get some extra input?
> 
> I just put two-extra Swiftech helix fans on my radiator for my h220.
> 
> As I was screwing down one of the helix fans the black fan housing kind of cracked on one side....
> 
> I didn't think I torqued it that hard but anyway,....
> 
> would you guys be anal about this?
> 
> The fans are both screwed in but the fact that the black housing on one of the helix fans is cracked is kind of bugging me...
> 
> ....should I order a new fan or just keep it the way it is?
> 
> What do you guys think?





you could also use a smaller screw and put it through only the side of the fan that is in contact with the rad ! ~


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone have any advice for installing the CPU block of the H220 without hassle?
> 
> My lga 1150 backplate keeps falling off the back of the motherboard (the sticky tape is NOT good enough) when I try to re-apply the thermal paste & re-mount the h220 CPU block.
> 
> Could one use electrical tape to tape the backplate securely to the motherboard temporarily or is there another method or some other tape that is better?
> 
> I had to literally flip my computer upward with 1 hand because the backplate fell off when I was installing my CPU block last night. then I had to maneuver the backplate with one hand and had one hand on the CPU block applying pressure so the seal wouldn't "break"





i tried tape didnt work great but worked. best method i have found is ( granted mine is a apogee hd a little different ) the wife method ( with no tubing in the way ) . in this method wife holds it on while you screw, my other best method is ( with lots of tubing in the way ) putting a small bag full of air ( IE a sealed bag of beef jerky ) under it laying the mobo in the case on top of the bag and then screwing. { these are the best methods i have found while the mobo is in the case, imo out of the case is a pita !~}


----------



## mastahg

If you have a corsair system mounting kit, you can use the standoffs that come with it.

Edit:
http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html

This should be what you need. I swear I would have lost my mind having to deal with the standard mounting system, with the corsair setup you just slip it onto the standoffs and tighten down.


----------



## dramabeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> If you have a corsair system mounting kit, you can use the standoffs that come with it.
> 
> Edit:
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html
> 
> This should be what you need. I swear I would have lost my mind having to deal with the standard mounting system, with the corsair setup you just slip it onto the standoffs and tighten down.


this should be in the OP, I'm buying one just so I don't have to deal with it everytime I take my unit off


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> this should be in the OP, I'm buying one just so I don't have to deal with it everytime I take my unit off


Yep, I had the corsair h80i, and although I really do like this swiftech, the backplate of the corsair seems far superior.

It is so much easier to screw on, and the backplate never falls off and there are no misalignments.

With the swiftech, I literally had my thermal paste jobs ruined because I went to screw the CPU block down and the backplate fell off and I had my computer laying on its side.

So I had to try to maintain pressure on the CPU block with one hand so I didn't break the thermal seal and lift up my PC with my one other hand and my chest.

Needless to say my hand slipped and it came off the CPU block so I had a botched install of that CPU block all thanks to that damn backplate that likes to fall off and slide around....


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dramabeats*
> 
> this should be in the OP, I'm buying one just so I don't have to deal with it everytime I take my unit off


I updated the OP to include such info







. BTW, it's funny that in the link they say the bracket is compatible with LGA 2011, when in fact there is no backplate needed with 2011 because it's built in.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> If you have a corsair system mounting kit, you can use the standoffs that come with it.
> 
> Edit:
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html
> 
> This should be what you need. I swear I would have lost my mind having to deal with the standard mounting system, with the corsair setup you just slip it onto the standoffs and tighten down.


So the H60 bracket I have should work? Wish I had known that. Thing was a PITA to keep in place


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone know if putting the 240mm H220 radiator in the front of the PC cases, like in the Fractal Arc cases would actually make temperatures better than the top?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if putting the 240mm H220 radiator in the front of the PC cases, like in the Fractal Arc cases would actually make temperatures better than the top?


It should not matter where its located, it all comes down to moving air through the rad and ambient temps.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if putting the 240mm H220 radiator in the front of the PC cases, like in the Fractal Arc cases would actually make temperatures better than the top?


I don't think there would be any difference for the cpu, but the gpu may get hotter with the rad in the front


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It should not matter where its located, it all comes down to moving air through the rad and ambient temps.


Cpu temps wouldn't be affected either way, but assuming it's setup as intake on the front, looks like gpu(s) will be sucking on the warmer air that way.


----------



## Philly27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if putting the 240mm H220 radiator in the front of the PC cases, like in the Fractal Arc cases would actually make temperatures better than the top?


I have this setup( to retain a clean look and top sound proofing). The temp on gpu are higher, the bottom and exhaust fans help to mitigated this. If you are asking top exhaust vs front intake temps will be different but otherwise I agree with others.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if putting the 240mm H220 radiator in the front of the PC cases, like in the Fractal Arc cases would actually make temperatures better than the top?


Too many ways to look at it. Better because then you can exhaust heat out the top better with 2 fans, or bad because heat going towards gpu/mobo/ram. I think it all comes down to how you want it setup. I like the top with res toward drive bays, because I'm going to add my gpu to the loop. So I want to add a fill/drain port, so I dont have to remove the whole thing for maintenance, by hooking tubing up to the existing fill port and keeping it routed in the drive bays for future use.


----------



## Exolaris

I think my pump just bit the dust after two weeks of running at sub-1400 rpms. I heard it revving up and then quieting down repeatedly. I looked at speed fan and the rpms were at zero and my cpu temps were burning up.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I'll try to fix the pump noise tomorrow, quite tired right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few pics of the build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5 2500k
> crucial ballistix elite 1866mhz
> gigabyte gtx 660ti windforce 2x
> asus p8z77-i deluxe
> sandisk ultra plus 256gb
> seasonic x-series 760w
> 
> bitfenix prodigy white + Phobya g-Silent 180mm 700 rpm + NB e-Loop 120mm 800rpm + Swiftech H220


Man after my own heart, nice looking build ya got there


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exolaris*
> 
> I think my pump just bit the dust after two weeks of running at sub-1400 rpms. I heard it revving up and then quieting down repeatedly. I looked at speed fan and the rpms were at zero and my cpu temps were burning up.


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please send an email to [email protected] along with your invoice for this kit and the serial number from your radiator. This serial number will be located on the reservoir side of your radiator and it will start with the numbers 2013. Once I have this information I'll issue you an RMA number and give you instructions to receive a cross-shipped unit. Please be advised that if you aren't located in the US or Canada you may have to go through the master distributor in your area. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It should not matter where its located, it all comes down to moving air through the rad and ambient temps.


Considering heat rises, one would assume the closer the case is to the floor, and fans pulling that air from the floor to the radiator, you would see a temp difference


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Considering heat rises, one would assume the closer the case is to the floor, and fans pulling that air from the floor to the radiator, you would see a temp difference


Not really. There isn't really enough of a distance to make a noticeable difference in temperature. If you had a case that was several feet high, then there might be a noticeable difference.


----------



## Mega Man

if you have so little airflow in your case that heat can actually rise..... then i submit you need more fans......
if your case has time to see such a dramatic temp difference inside vs out.... i submit you need more powerful fans.....
even with all my oc
max temp output for air under normal use is less the 5deg of ambient .

stressing is a little different


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I don't know much about expanding the loop on the H220 to gpus. But can someone point me in the right direction to fit

XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design - Frozencpu.com

into my loop?


----------



## Mega Man

you will need tubing, fittings and i recommend an extra 2 fan rad !~ ( 240, 280)


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Man after my own heart, nice looking build ya got there


thanks!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I don't know much about expanding the loop on the H220 to gpus. But can someone point me in the right direction to fit
> 
> XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design - Frozencpu.com
> 
> into my loop?


You will need another rad. Just a single 120/140mm in the rear not going to help much. Might need to find space to add another single somewhere or 240.
Once you figure out where to place rads, then look at buying the blocks.
Not a fan of the XSPC GPU block, too flashy and the styling is not to my liking.
Swiftech is coming with there own for the GTX 670, just not sure when?


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi there, I don't know if this is the correct thread to post. Im the owner of a Swiftech H2O-220 CPU WC Kit bought 1 year ago. Is there any official thread for this one?, because the one kit on the picture doesn't look like the one I have XD. Sorry and thx in advance.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> Hi there, I don't know if this is the correct thread to post. Im the owner of a Swiftech H2O-220 CPU WC Kit bought 1 year ago. Is there any official thread for this one?, because the one kit on the picture doesn't look like the one I have XD. Sorry and thx in advance.


No, I don't believe that there is an official owners' thread for the Edge kit. If you have any questions regarding it though, I can certainly answer them for you.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I don't know much about expanding the loop on the H220 to gpus. But can someone point me in the right direction to fit
> 
> XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design - Frozencpu.com
> 
> into my loop?


Everything mentioned, but you can get away with a single 120 mm rad if only one gpu. My cpu temps remained the same at load with the GPU maxed out.


----------



## chemicalbuz

hi guys, i was collecting infos about this AIO system, i read on the official website that the cpu waterblock is incompatible with asrock z77e itx MOBO, cant find any info about mine, it is the z87e itx, i guess there shoudn't be anymore problems concerning VGA socket cause they move it higher, but i think ram sockets are still a problem, anyone can confirm that? thanks mates


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemicalbuz*
> 
> hi guys, i was collecting infos about this AIO system, i read on the official website that the cpu waterblock is incompatible with asrock z77e itx MOBO, cant find any info about mine, it is the z87e itx, i guess there shoudn't be anymore problems concerning VGA socket cause they move it higher, but i think ram sockets are still a problem, anyone can confirm that? thanks mates


You might be the first, low profile ram, the samsung green, or the LP crucial sports shouldn't be an issue regardless.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I don't know much about expanding the loop on the H220 to gpus. But can someone point me in the right direction to fit
> 
> XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 670 Full Coverage VGA Block - Reference Design - Frozencpu.com
> 
> into my loop?


For expanding I suggest making a diagram on paper on how you want to create the loop and marking everything your gonna need, as shipping all the parts you need at once will save money. Especially since most watercooling store dont have the greatest shipping prices.

The tubing for the H220 is 3/8"ID (inner diameter)x 5/8"OD (outer diameter) or for metric 10mmx16mm.

So when looking for barbs (fittings) you need 3/8" barbs and most likely 5/8" clamps to hold the tubing securely.

If you want to use compression fittings then you need to look for 3/8"ID x 5/8"OD. Also make sure either are G1/4 threads as that is most likely,99.9%, going to fit your block.

Order 3/8"ID x 5/8"OD tubing, amount all depends on your case, how you route it, if your gonna replace stock tubing, and if you want extra.

You may also want to add a drain fill port to the H220 res. I'm making mine out of 1/2"ID tubing to help fill better as its the biggest tubing you can buy.

Do some research it will help you out a lot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemicalbuz*
> 
> hi guys, i was collecting infos about this AIO system, i read on the official website that the cpu waterblock is incompatible with asrock z77e itx MOBO, cant find any info about mine, it is the z87e itx, i guess there shoudn't be anymore problems concerning VGA socket cause they move it higher, but i think ram sockets are still a problem, anyone can confirm that? thanks mates


From the newegg pics it looks like it will mount no problem with tubing going north to south.


----------



## Tomasu82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomasu82*
> 
> I recently got a H220, and installed it a couple days ago. I've been having a similar issue others have been, the pump just shuts down and my FX-8320 reaches its HYST mark and the computer switches off. It tends to be ok when the cpu is idle, but if I load it up to 100% across all 4 modules, or all 8 threads/cores, the temps level out near 50c but after a few minutes the pump shuts down.
> 
> I just tried hooking the pump up to the cpu fan header directly, and checked for bent pins, as well as hooked up through the splitter. Everything looks fine, but it doesn't seem to want to start back up. I've noticed I have to wait a while before it wants to start working again. I assume its because it needs to cool down. The pump/block gets rather hot after it shuts down.
> 
> Are there any things I can try that I haven't?


Recently got my RMA unit. Thing is purring like a cat. Can't hear my system at all anymore, and under full load I'm getting about 40c temps. When I fire up a couple older Radeon 5850s as well at full load, temps rise to about 54c. Idle temps are 30c. Better than I expected for my setup. (air flow is lacking, and only have the rad setup in pull config, rather than push pull). I don't overclock much at all these days, so this is going to do me for quite some time. I imagine if I tried, I could get fully loaded temps down 5-10c.

Swiftech was very helpful and very very quick to help. If anyone has thought of holding off buying a swiftech because of any of the previous issues with this unit, don't. If, in the off chance something is wrong, they will step up and make it right, with a minimum of fuss. (no I am not a shill







just really impressed with swiftech)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomasu82*
> 
> Recently got my RMA unit. Thing is purring like a cat. Can't hear my system at all anymore, and under full load I'm getting about 40c temps. When I fire up a couple older Radeon 5850s as well at full load, temps rise to about 54c. Idle temps are 30c. Better than I expected for my setup. (air flow is lacking, and only have the rad setup in pull config, rather than push pull). I don't overclock much at all these days, so this is going to do me for quite some time. I imagine if I tried, I could get fully loaded temps down 5-10c.
> 
> Swiftech was very helpful and very very quick to help. If anyone has thought of holding off buying a swiftech because of any of the previous issues with this unit, don't. If, in the off chance something is wrong, they will step up and make it right, with a minimum of fuss. (no I am not a shill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just really impressed with swiftech)


Thank you so much for posting your experience with us. We try to treat our customers the way we would want to be treated. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions or require further assistance.


----------



## TheEnergy

I'm getting the "CPU fan Error" on my system.

My system was RUNNING FINE all day, from 10am until 6pm, playing Battlefield 3 and browsing the web.

I went to the gym and came back, booted the PC up and boom "CPU fan error"

I literally did not TOUCH ANYTHING.

What the fudge?

I am infuriated right now. The first day I got the cooler, the PWM splitter was damaged but I received a new one. Now, the unit was working fine and just merely stopped; without me touching anything.

I just double checked all the connections and everything is plugged in properly, and it was running fine earlier today anyway...

Help? I'm just going to go to best buy and pick up a Corsair cooler now, ugh...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm getting the "CPU fan Error" on my system.
> 
> My system was RUNNING FINE all day, from 10am until 6pm, playing Battlefield 3 and browsing the web.
> 
> I went to the gym and came back, booted the PC up and boom "CPU fan error"
> 
> I literally did not TOUCH ANYTHING.
> 
> What the fudge?
> 
> I am infuriated right now. The first day I got the cooler, the PWM splitter was damaged but I received a new one. Now, the unit was working fine and just merely stopped; without me touching anything.
> 
> I just double checked all the connections and everything is plugged in properly, and it was running fine earlier today anyway...
> 
> Help? I'm just going to go to best buy and pick up a Corsair cooler now, ugh...


Calm down first. No need to buy Corsair and waste money, and be worse off.

First how are you connected on the pump?
Try a different header with the pump only, no splitter.
What is the bios settings used?
Are you using any software to control fan or bios only?

If there is still a problem, contact Swiftech they will take good care of you.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm getting the "CPU fan Error" on my system.
> 
> My system was RUNNING FINE all day, from 10am until 6pm, playing Battlefield 3 and browsing the web.
> 
> I went to the gym and came back, booted the PC up and boom "CPU fan error"
> 
> I literally did not TOUCH ANYTHING.
> 
> What the fudge?
> 
> I am infuriated right now. The first day I got the cooler, the PWM splitter was damaged but I received a new one. Now, the unit was working fine and just merely stopped; without me touching anything.
> 
> I just double checked all the connections and everything is plugged in properly, and it was running fine earlier today anyway...
> 
> Help? I'm just going to go to best buy and pick up a Corsair cooler now, ugh...


Umm your being a bit impatient and being someone who builds their own computers, troubleshooting never ends... 1st gen stuff always has kinks everyone knows that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm getting the "CPU fan Error" on my system.
> 
> My system was RUNNING FINE all day, from 10am until 6pm, playing Battlefield 3 and browsing the web.
> 
> I went to the gym and came back, booted the PC up and boom "CPU fan error"
> 
> I literally did not TOUCH ANYTHING.
> 
> What the fudge?
> 
> I am infuriated right now. The first day I got the cooler, the PWM splitter was damaged but I received a new one. Now, the unit was working fine and just merely stopped; without me touching anything.
> 
> I just double checked all the connections and everything is plugged in properly, and it was running fine earlier today anyway...
> 
> Help? I'm just going to go to best buy and pick up a Corsair cooler now, ugh...


Some of the other members have given you the same suggestions that I would have. Please let me know if they help to resolve your issue. If they don't then please PM me and we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm getting the "CPU fan Error" on my system.
> 
> My system was RUNNING FINE all day, from 10am until 6pm, playing Battlefield 3 and browsing the web.
> 
> I went to the gym and came back, booted the PC up and boom "CPU fan error"
> 
> I literally did not TOUCH ANYTHING.
> 
> What the fudge?
> 
> I am infuriated right now. The first day I got the cooler, the PWM splitter was damaged but I received a new one. Now, the unit was working fine and just merely stopped; without me touching anything.
> 
> I just double checked all the connections and everything is plugged in properly, and it was running fine earlier today anyway...
> 
> Help? I'm just going to go to best buy and pick up a Corsair cooler now, ugh...


Chillax, the h220 isn't going to be perfect especially in r1. Get a cheap corsair one to tie you over until your RMA'd 220 comes back to you. I'm never going back to corsair again and i had the r1 h100


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Calm down first. No need to buy Corsair and waste money, and be worse off.
> 
> First how are you connected on the pump?
> Try a different header with the pump only, no splitter.
> What is the bios settings used?
> Are you using any software to control fan or bios only?
> 
> If there is still a problem, contact Swiftech they will take good care of you.


I'm using the PWM splitter. I have almost all the slots on it filled, would this matter? (I have all my chassis fans and radiator fans in push/pull, hooked up to it)

I"ll bypass it I suppose, THOUGH, everything was working PERFECT earlier today and I didn't touch anything, so that doesn't make any sense.....

I'm just using "optimal" in the z87 sabertooth bios with the CPU fan on "turbo setting' but low RPM at 600.

I'm not using any software to control ANYTHING.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm using the PWM splitter. I have almost all the slots on it filled, would this matter? (I have all my chassis fans and radiator fans in push/pull, hooked up to it)
> 
> I"ll bypass it I suppose, THOUGH, everything was working PERFECT earlier today and I didn't touch anything, so that doesn't make any sense.....
> 
> I'm just using "optimal" in the z87 sabertooth bios with the CPU fan on "turbo setting' but low RPM at 600.
> 
> I'm not using any software to control ANYTHING.


wait are you telling me a *cheap* pwm splitter failed? I mean look at it, its not supposed to be anything amazing or guaranteed to last forever. That's not even an h220 issue that's just a bonus component and quite frankly its a piece imo. Go straight to the board and run any "Non essential fans" off 3pin > 4pin molex connectors from best buy or wherever to free up pwm headers on your sabertooth.

I very highly doubt you need to pwm every single fan in your case. I have the exhaust fan on my 800D hooked up via molex connector. And all my essential fans hooked up to the board itself (using sabertooth z77). If and when i get more fans. I'll be buying a pretty decent fan controller. But don't ever put your trust in a $3.00 piece of plastic and pcb with a 3M adhesive tape lol

Imagine if you had gone off and dumped $120.00 on a corsair cooler at best buy, only to find out that it was a cheap pwm splitter that was stopping you from using it. Just invest $40.00 or whatever into a really nice fan controller and you will be golden


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> wait are you telling me a *cheap* pwm splitter failed? I mean look at it, its not supposed to be anything amazing or guaranteed to last forever. That's not even an h220 issue that's just a bonus component and quite frankly its a piece imo. Go straight to the board and run any "Non essential fans" off 3pin > 4pin molex connectors from best buy or wherever to free up pwm headers on your sabertooth.
> 
> I very highly doubt you need to pwm every single fan in your case. I have the exhaust fan on my 800D hooked up via molex connector. And all my essential fans hooked up to the board itself (using sabertooth z77). If and when i get more fans. I'll be buying a pretty decent fan controller. But don't ever put your trust in a $3.00 piece of plastic and pcb with a 3M adhesive tape lol
> 
> Imagine if you had gone off and dumped $120.00 on a corsair cooler at best buy, only to find out that it was a cheap pwm splitter that was stopping you from using it. Just invest $40.00 or whatever into a really nice fan controller and you will be golden


Mr. Enthusiast gamer, you're *wrong*

Pump is _dead_. I'm 100% sure now; by-passed the PWM splitter and plugged into BOTH CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT fan headers on my motherboard and same "CPU Fan Error" message.

Thing is, I KNEW something was messed up 110% sure because the computer ran all morning and I didn't touch *ANYTHING* then now it doesn't work.

Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know it's not the PWM splitter.

So, yeah. I'll definitely RMA it, but to be honest, I'm selling it on ebay as soon as I get it, and getting a Kraken x60 or H110i from BestBuy tomorrow.

No offense, and I really don't want to be mean, but the amount of "CPU fan errors" or dead pumps is just unbelievable.

It might be a great product, but the the engineering or something is heavily skewed.

My fellow gamer friend just purchased one 3 days ago, and he had a DoA dead pump.

Anyway, just my honest 2 cents. Good game, well played.

thanks for the help.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> wait are you telling me a *cheap* pwm splitter failed? I mean look at it, its not supposed to be anything amazing or guaranteed to last forever. That's not even an h220 issue that's just a bonus component and quite frankly its a piece imo. Go straight to the board and run any "Non essential fans" off 3pin > 4pin molex connectors from best buy or wherever to free up pwm headers on your sabertooth.
> 
> I very highly doubt you need to pwm every single fan in your case. I have the exhaust fan on my 800D hooked up via molex connector. And all my essential fans hooked up to the board itself (using sabertooth z77). If and when i get more fans. I'll be buying a pretty decent fan controller. But don't ever put your trust in a $3.00 piece of plastic and pcb with a 3M adhesive tape lol
> 
> Imagine if you had gone off and dumped $120.00 on a corsair cooler at best buy, only to find out that it was a cheap pwm splitter that was stopping you from using it. Just invest $40.00 or whatever into a really nice fan controller and you will be golden


For one the PWM splitter is very good design. I have 2 of them currently and its great for PWM fans and pumps.
Fan controllers are not so great at times, as its voltage control and can be troublesome is most situations. You dont control PWM fans with voltage, as the effect on them is not good, and you lose the actual potential of the fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Mr. Enthusiast gamer, you're *wrong*
> 
> Pump is _dead_. I'm 100% sure now; by-passed the PWM splitter and plugged into BOTH CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT fan headers on my motherboard and same "CPU Fan Error" message.
> 
> Thing is, I KNEW something was messed up 110% sure because the computer ran all morning and I didn't touch *ANYTHING* then now it doesn't work.
> 
> Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know it's not the PWM splitter.
> 
> So, yeah. I'll definitely RMA it, but to be honest, I'm selling it on ebay as soon as I get it, and getting a Kraken x60 or H110i from BestBuy tomorrow.
> 
> No offense, and I really don't want to be mean, but the amount of "CPU fan errors" or dead pumps is just unbelievable.
> 
> It might be a great product, but the the engineering or something is heavily skewed.
> 
> My fellow gamer friend just purchased one 3 days ago, and he had a DoA dead pump.
> 
> Anyway, just my honest 2 cents. Good game, well played.
> 
> thanks for the help.


Dont bother to buy anything else. Swiftech will fix your problem, without issues. Just use the stock cooling or what ever you have.
If you think the X60 or H100i is any better, you're mistaken. What do you think will happen if those fail. Same thing to RMA, but a little harder to deal with.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Mr. Enthusiast gamer, you're *wrong*
> 
> Pump is _dead_. I'm 100% sure now; by-passed the PWM splitter and plugged into BOTH CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT fan headers on my motherboard and same "CPU Fan Error" message.
> 
> Thing is, I KNEW something was messed up 110% sure because the computer ran all morning and I didn't touch *ANYTHING* then now it doesn't work.
> 
> Doesn't take a rocket scientist to know it's not the PWM splitter.
> 
> So, yeah. I'll definitely RMA it, but to be honest, I'm selling it on ebay as soon as I get it, and getting a Kraken x60 or H110i from BestBuy tomorrow.
> 
> No offense, and I really don't want to be mean, but the amount of "CPU fan errors" or dead pumps is just unbelievable.
> 
> It might be a great product, but the the engineering or something is heavily skewed.
> 
> My fellow gamer friend just purchased one 3 days ago, and he had a DoA dead pump.
> 
> Anyway, just my honest 2 cents. Good game, well played.
> 
> thanks for the help.


That's pretty odd. I still wouldn't throw in the towel on them just because of problems. I'm sure the corsair line of products had many problems at first. I know you want reliability and quite honestly id lean towards swiftech a lot more than i would Corsair. Seeing as Corsair entered the market with ram, and is now into AIO's. Where as Swiftech unless i am mistaken has 100% been involved in WC since day one.

You cant constantly be replacing or worrying about your systems cooling i get that. Hopefully your H100i gets the job done for you.

Also have you rulled out the possibility of it being your Z87 Sabertooth? Didn't that just come out?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> That's pretty odd. I still wouldn't throw in the towel on them just because of problems. I'm sure the corsair line of products had many problems at first. I know you want reliability and quite honestly id lean towards swiftech a lot more than i would Corsair. Seeing as Corsair entered the market with ram, and is now into AIO's. Where as Swiftech unless i am mistaken has 100% been involved in WC since day one.
> 
> You cant constantly be replacing or worrying about your systems cooling i get that. Hopefully your H100i gets the job done for you.
> 
> Also have you rulled out the possibility of it being your Z87 Sabertooth? Didn't that just come out?


Well, the odds of it being the sabertoth are slim to none.

all the other fan headers work perfectly fine - so it's either assuming that BOTH asus CPU fan headers are "dead"

or

the water cooler that has about 50-100 posts about a dead pump is faulty.....

choose wisely


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> For one the PWM splitter is very good design. I have 2 of them currently and its great for PWM fans and pumps.
> Fan controllers are not so great at times, as its voltage control and can be troublesome is most situations. You dont control PWM fans with voltage, as the effect on them is not good, and you lose the actual potential of the fans.
> Dont bother to buy anything else. Swiftech will fix your problem, without issues. Just use the stock cooling or what ever you have.
> If you think the X60 or H100i is any better, you're mistaken. What do you think will happen if those fail. Same thing to RMA, but a little harder to deal with.


touche


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The posts here are just a small amount compared to how many sold.
I'm on my 2nd H220, first one started having issues about 35 days after I got mine.
In 5 days I had another one sent to me, and Swiftech paid for shipping both ways. New one is working great, and actually better for the last month.
The few we had only mine had issues, which is good.

Let Swiftech fix your problem, before you buy anything else.


----------



## Dudewitbow

You know, just about any wc loop is prone to problems(e.g corsair trickling water problem that was fixed with batches, had its own thread in OCN talking about it). normal WC problems on top of the fact that this is a first group in a way of a newish WC loop doesnt help much. when going into ANY form of watercooling, its not rare to see that there is problems no matter who manufactures it. The reason why it sounds like so many pumps die is the fact that when reviewing something, nearly everyone reviews it if something bad happens to their unit. probably less than 5% actually review it if their unit is working perfectly fine. Swiftech even openly gave a statement that their RMA % is alot lower and is over exaggerated by complaints through the forum, as not everyone walks in with a good unit and says that swiftech is doing a good job, they just use the unit and more or less back off discussing about it.


----------



## drnilly007

Guys I'd hate to add to this little hate fest we have going on here, but I am just doing a little benching on my gpu and realize this noise coming from my computer. Its one of the cooler nights we've had on the east coast so I dont have my house fans blowin making noise.
Thinking its one of my fans, since I run cheapo blade master fans, I lower them all to off or inaudible but still hear this noise. My H220 is going downhill. It sounds like a mechanical hdd x10 looking for the same data over and over, not too happy atm,

I'm thinking I just haven't heard it this last week because of house fans running all the time. Kinda glad I didn't order the parts to expand my loop yet.

Hope I get some help here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> That's pretty odd. I still wouldn't throw in the towel on them just because of problems. I'm sure the corsair line of products had many problems at first. I know you want reliability and quite honestly id lean towards swiftech a lot more than i would Corsair. Seeing as Corsair entered the market with ram, and is now into AIO's. Where as Swiftech unless i am mistaken has 100% been involved in WC since day one.
> 
> You cant constantly be replacing or worrying about your systems cooling i get that. Hopefully your H100i gets the job done for you.
> 
> Also have you rulled out the possibility of it being your Z87 Sabertooth? Didn't that just come out?


water and air ( that is what their logo is water +air +"S" )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> You know, just about any wc loop is prone to problems(e.g corsair trickling water problem that was fixed with batches, had its own thread in OCN talking about it). normal WC problems on top of the fact that this is a first group in a way of a newish WC loop doesnt help much. when going into ANY form of watercooling, its not rare to see that there is problems no matter who manufactures it. The reason why it sounds like so many pumps die is the fact that when reviewing something, nearly everyone reviews it if something bad happens to their unit. probably less than 5% actually review it if their unit is working perfectly fine. Swiftech even openly gave a statement that their RMA % is alot lower and is over exaggerated by complaints through the forum, as not everyone walks in with a good unit and says that swiftech is doing a good job, they just use the unit and more or less back off discussing about it.


more like less then 1% will give good reviews

i would like to throw in that
1 any number of things can kill pwm on pump let alone the whole pcb...... a surge in your system for example. but wait you will tell me that didnt happen.... and there is NO WAY it could of...
2 there have been way way more issues in all in ones then in h220
3 arguing with people like him is like yelling at a wall. ( or beating your head against one ) you get no where and you are just more annoyed then when you started " you cant fill a glass that is overflowing" he has made up his mind.....


----------



## TheEnergy

Just removed the swiftech.

Anyone know how to move the HDD bay to the left, closer to the PSU?

As you can see in the photos, if I mount it closer to the PSU, there seems NO WAY that the PSU cables will be able to fit, even if I put the cables in first etc...

what do you guys think?

like this is what I want to do, but is their pSU smaller? I have the AX850 from Corsair!


----------



## Mega Man

mount your cables first then push them outta the way. had to do it to mount my rad in the bottom of my case. just barely fits


----------



## drnilly007

I'm really tempted to take it apart. After following the OP instructions on what to do in case pump acts up. When you squeeze the tubing the sound kinda intensifies from the added restriction. I wonder if its plasticizer or those little white pieces someone posted like 50 pages back, blocking up the pump causing more restriction?

Fortunately temps do seem about the same.


----------



## Watagump

I never really expected to go with any kind of liquid cooling, but man, I am glad I chose a nice big case. Even without liquid cooling, they just make installing things so much easier.


----------



## ez12a

second pump i have is still behaving normally *knock on wood*


----------



## bobsaget

hey guys,

I have a few questions since I installed my h220 last week end, mostly about pump and fans noise.
First of all, my pump and fans are plugged into the swiftech pwm splitter (which is amazing btw, just wished the power cable was sata, not molex) and are regulated by the bios (fan regulation set to "standard").

With that setup, the pump runs at about 1900/2000 rpm and makes a little noise ( nothing too much noticeable though). But i want to make sure it's normal. Does your pump make the same noise at that speed?

My other remark deals with the swiftech fans (set as pull). They do the job but are definitely loud, both of them have very distinctive motor noise. Again, is it normal? I'm used to fans whose airflow makes more noise than the rotor itself...

thanks


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Anyone know how to move the HDD bay to the left, closer to the PSU?
> As you can see in the photos, if I mount it closer to the PSU, there seems NO WAY that the PSU cables will be able to fit, even if I put the cables in first etc...


See this video... 




You can mount the cage using the fan mounts (as in the picture you posted), but there is also a half step between the usual front mount and the over the fan mount. And given a drill, there are lots of other options about where to put it


----------



## kt6999

What size tubing does the h220 use


----------



## AlDyer

10/16 mm if you use the metric system, can't remember the OD and ID inches. Also to they guy who is going to buy Corsair, I advice you to rethink your strategy since I had 2 dead units and was really starting to get pissed, even thought about going back to air, but now that the H220 works I couldn't be happier. Have ran a 8350 5GHz stable and my i5 4670K at 4.8 GHz stable. Just give Swiftech a chance to fix this...


----------



## nilapoledo

so my h220 + most of the other stuff for my 'vintage i7' project finally arrived.
is there a 'how to' test the h220 unit / splitter before the final assembly around?

is there a way to test the pump speed as well?

thanks!


----------



## chemicalbuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You might be the first, low profile ram, the samsung green, or the LP crucial sports shouldn't be an issue regardless.


what about this one? http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-low-profile-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cml8gx3m2a1866c9r.html
it is 26.55mm tall
i also checked crucial ballistic sports that you suggested
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=BLS2K4G3D1609ES2LX0
they say they are 30mm tall, so corsair ones should fit even better. Am i right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> From the newegg pics it looks like it will mount no problem with tubing going north to south.


do you mean i can choose how to rotate the waterblock? so am i free to set it with tubing on sides or on top and bottom?
BTW can you show me the pic you are talking about please cause i tried to find it but i didn't, thanks


----------



## jbduck

Has anyone tried if the H220 fits with Sabertooth Z87 and the Fractal Design R4 case? I am thinking about buying the R4 but i want to be sure that it fits before i buy it. I have planned to put it on the top.


----------



## junzo

Does any one know if the h220 will fit in a bitfenix Shinobi (non XL version)


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbduck*
> 
> Has anyone tried if the H220 fits with Sabertooth Z87 and the Fractal Design R4 case? I am thinking about buying the R4 but i want to be sure that it fits before i buy it. I have planned to put it on the top.


the R4 can fit the corsair h100 in the top. I guess the h220 fits but i'm not sure.
It looks pretty tight with sabertooth mobos:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1356585/fractal-design-define-r4-asus-sabertooth-z77-corsair-h100i-compatibility-inquiry/0_30
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junzo*
> 
> Does any one know if the h220 will fit in a bitfenix Shinobi (non XL version)


I had the shinobi for a few months. I don' t think the case can fit the H220. The mobo is too close of the case top (there's just room to fit fans). And the front doesn't have matching holes for dual 120 rad (although you can fit 2 120 mm fans) and the drive cage is also too close.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kt6999*
> 
> What size tubing does the h220 use


3/8 x 5/8


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Guys I'd hate to add to this little hate fest we have going on here, but I am just doing a little benching on my gpu and realize this noise coming from my computer. Its one of the cooler nights we've had on the east coast so I dont have my house fans blowin making noise.
> Thinking its one of my fans, since I run cheapo blade master fans, I lower them all to off or inaudible but still hear this noise. My H220 is going downhill. It sounds like a mechanical hdd x10 looking for the same data over and over, not too happy atm,
> 
> I'm thinking I just haven't heard it this last week because of house fans running all the time. Kinda glad I didn't order the parts to expand my loop yet.
> 
> Hope I get some help here.


Possible its an air bubble trapped in the pump, follow the OP instructions on how to remove it to see if helps


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I was wondering, will swiftech honor a waranty on a H220 unit that has been paired with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or Pro? Reason I ask is because it eats away at the copper CPU block and to reapply you need to use either metal polish or a scour pad to remove the left over, in turn scratching or defacing the block


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I was wondering, will swiftech honor a waranty on a H220 unit that has been paired with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or Pro? Reason I ask is because it eats away at the copper CPU block and to reapply you need to use either metal polish or a scour pad to remove the left over, in turn scratching or defacing the block


CLU or CLP do not do anything to copper, they will destroy aluminum though. With time, elbow grease, and metal polish you can remove all the CLU from the H220 cold plate without do any damage to anything. There is no need to use anything abrasive. If you do, for whatever reason, lap the cold plate that will void your warranty though.

I use CLU, but I don't recommend using it with your cooler unless people really know what they are getting into when it is time to clean it up. You will only get 2-4 c better than a good standard TIM like MX-4, so most just use that. CLU or CLP on the die of a delidded chip is necessary to get the best temps though.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemicalbuz*
> 
> what about this one? http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-low-profile-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cml8gx3m2a1866c9r.html
> it is 26.55mm tall
> i also checked crucial ballistic sports that you suggested
> http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=BLS2K4G3D1609ES2LX0
> they say they are 30mm tall, so corsair ones should fit even better. Am i right?
> do you mean i can choose how to rotate the waterblock? so am i free to set it with tubing on sides or on top and bottom?
> BTW can you show me the pic you are talking about please cause i tried to find it but i didn't, thanks


That ram based on their pictures looks much taller than the crucial or samsung green ram. In the case of both sticks I suggested, the tallest part is no higher than the top of the DIMM slot itself, the upper stopper for the slot sits on the top corners of the ram when it is fully inserted. The vengeance ram looks like it sits above the DIMM slot.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> CLU or CLP do not do anything to copper, they will destroy aluminum though. With time, elbow grease, and metal polish you can remove all the CLU from the H220 cold plate without do any damage to anything. There is no need to use anything abrasive. If you do, for whatever reason, lap the cold plate that will void your warranty though.
> 
> I use CLU, but I don't recommend using it with your cooler unless people really know what they are getting into when it is time to clean it up. You will only get 2-4 c better than a good standard TIM like MX-4, so most just use that. CLU or CLP on the die of a delidded chip is necessary to get the best temps though.


Only reason I can see using mx4 on the IHS vs CLU is you would probably have to delid again and reapp on the die, if anything down the road happened, I might regret using CLU on the IHS I might not. Seeing lots of faulty H220 posts so I'm hoping I'm in that margin that doesn't have a faulty unit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbduck*
> 
> Has anyone tried if the H220 fits with Sabertooth Z87 and the Fractal Design R4 case? I am thinking about buying the R4 but i want to be sure that it fits before i buy it. I have planned to put it on the top.


You fit in the Arc Midi R2, which you avoid clearance issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junzo*
> 
> Does any one know if the h220 will fit in a bitfenix Shinobi (non XL version)


Shinobi do not have support for 240 rad. You will need to mod the case to support it.


----------



## TheEnergy

Can someone guide me through the RMA process for my swiftech h220 which appears to have a dead pump?

I have bypassed the PWM splitter and even tried (2) seperate headers ( CPU_FAN and CPU_OP)on my Asus z87 sabertooth motherboard and I still get the CPU fan error.

I already removed the unit so if someone can guide me...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Can someone guide me through the RMA process for my swiftech h220 which appears to have a dead pump?
> 
> I have bypassed the PWM splitter and even tried (2) seperate headers ( CPU_FAN and CPU_OP)on my Asus z87 sabertooth motherboard and I still get the CPU fan error.
> 
> I already removed the unit so if someone can guide me...


Please send me a PM and I'll guide you through our RMA process. You can also email me directly at [email protected]


----------



## jderbs

So I RMA'd my original unit and now after having this new one for a few weeks it just started making a very loud buzzing noise... is this a sign for an incoming failure?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> So I RMA'd my original unit and now after having this new one for a few weeks it just started making a very loud buzzing noise... is this a sign for an incoming failure?


Probably not. Most likely it's just an air bubble that's gotten pulled into the pump. Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## bond32

I have found, these pumps aren't easy to prime. Once you get it primed fully though it works great. I rated my first unit a few weeks ago and it's been running fantastic. Also much quieter. Would have been curious to see what was up with my old one...

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jderbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Probably not. Most likely it's just an air bubble that's gotten pulled into the pump. Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that resolves your issue.


Any chance it will go away on it's own? Can't really mess around with it until this weekend.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Any chance it will go away on it's own? Can't really mess around with it until this weekend.


It could go away on it's own, but it most likely will require a little attention to push it out. Please let me know though if the instructions in the OP are unable to resolve your issue.


----------



## bobsaget

So i decided to replace my fans on the h220 and got a pair of Noiseblocker eLoop pwm fans (300-1500). I had already put a 800rpm dc eLoop on the back of my case which is very silent. Their color also match nicely the white prodigy.

The difference is day and night. The original fans were quite loud, but these new ones are really silent. I also ran a quick occt bench and lost a few degrees on load. I'm very satisfied


----------



## bond32

Those fans come highly rated... Very nice. How much did you pay? They are expensive I thought....


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Those fans come highly rated... Very nice. How much did you pay? They are expensive I thought....


I paid 40€.. Yeah they are expensive fans.


----------



## mylifeforiron

I ran out of the TIM thermal paste for my H220, and I need to switch it out to another PC. I was wondering if it is fine to use another thermal paste? The swiftech manual specifically says to use the TIM because it was the most effective. Anybody switched thermal paste and got similar temps?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mylifeforiron*
> 
> I ran out of the TIM thermal paste for my H220, and I need to switch it out to another PC. I was wondering if it is fine to use another thermal paste? The swiftech manual specifically says to use the TIM because it was the most effective. Anybody switched thermal paste and got similar temps?


Its fine to use other. I used MX-4.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jderbs*
> 
> Any chance it will go away on it's own? Can't really mess around with it until this weekend.


You can try running the pump for a while at 3000 rpm to see if go away. You can also try to move the case a bit at different angles which might help getting rid of the bubbles.


----------



## ghostrider85

question: why is this thing OOS everywhere? did they stopped production or something?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> So i decided to replace my fans on the h220 and got a pair of Noiseblocker eLoop pwm fans (300-1500). I had already put a 800rpm dc eLoop on the back of my case which is very silent. Their color also match nicely the white prodigy.
> 
> The difference is day and night. The original fans were quite loud, but these new ones are really silent. I also ran a quick occt bench and lost a few degrees on load. I'm very satisfied


Thnx for posting. I like the one NB Multiframe fan that i've got quite a lot. Its good to know that the eLoop works well on the swiftech rad... both quieter and cooler... slam dunk







I'll keep this in mind for if/when i get an h220.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> question: why is this thing OOS everywhere? did they stopped production or something?


Its not out of stock here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37174

It is the easiest way to go watercooling with the possibility to expand, people like that idea.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I was wondering, will swiftech honor a waranty on a H220 unit that has been paired with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra or Pro? Reason I ask is because it eats away at the copper CPU block and to reapply you need to use either metal polish or a scour pad to remove the left over, in turn scratching or defacing the block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> CLU or CLP do not do anything to copper, they will destroy aluminum though. With time, elbow grease, and metal polish you can remove all the CLU from the H220 cold plate without do any damage to anything. There is no need to use anything abrasive. If you do, for whatever reason, lap the cold plate that will void your warranty though.
> 
> I use CLU, but I don't recommend using it with your cooler unless people really know what they are getting into when it is time to clean it up. You will only get 2-4 c better than a good standard TIM like MX-4, so most just use that. CLU or CLP on the die of a delidded chip is necessary to get the best temps though.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> question: why is this thing OOS everywhere? did they stopped production or something?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Its not out of stock here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37174
> 
> It is the easiest way to go watercooling with the possibility to expand, people like that idea.


+ it is an amazing unit at an amazing price. an entry lv kit for full custom is like 60-200 more depending. and this pump kicks the xspc pump outta the water.


----------



## Thorgasm

Am i in?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Anyone know what's the smallest case I can fit this in that will hold an ATX board as well?
Without modding that is. I want to use it in a HTPC build.
Thanks...


----------



## xNovax

I wish these would get in stock on NCIX.


----------



## abbb

I just got my replacement H220 in from Swiftech because my last one's pump was making a loud noise, and while this one's quieter, it's still loud compared to what I thought my first one sounded like when it was new.
I recorded it at full speed. Is this what it's supposed to sound like? It starts to get loud enough to be annoying around 35-40%
http://audiour.com/Playlist/drjfy342


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNovax*
> 
> I wish these would get in stock on NCIX.


I must of got mine just as they started becoming super popular. I picked mine up at the Vancouver 1887 W Broadway NCIX, 5+ were in stock at the time.

The funny thing is, I didn't "need" it, I was using a first gen h100, with the crappy hard pcb tubing, I had it ghetto rigged too. The pumps fan controller died (the piece where you plug in the 2+ corsair fans + corsair link if you have it), Anyway it died, so I took the cover off the top of the pump, and discovered that the pump is just a 3 pin that was connected to a PWM splitter. So i removed the pumps PWM, and ran the 3 pin to a 3pin > 4 pin molex converter and had it running another 3-4 months like that with the fans connected to PWM headers on my MB.

Back to the point. I don't regret getting the h220 at all. Guy at NCIX said the h100i does the same thing. (Funny right? A salesman that advises you against spending MORE money). But the h220 is much quieter and does a much better job cooling than a first gen h100. the tubing alone provides more liquid to the cpu block


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I just got my replacement H220 in from Swiftech because my last one's pump was making a loud noise, and while this one's quieter, it's still loud compared to what I thought my first one sounded like when it was new.I recorded it at full speed. Is this what it's supposed to sound like? It starts to get loud enough to be annoying around 35-40%
> http://audiour.com/Playlist/drjfy342


Is that recording with case cover on or the recording device stuck up next to the pump. I had to turn my speaker volume all the way down to 4/100 to get it to be as quiet as my rig with fans/pump going. Recordings are subjective w/o the knowledge of all details so its your call. if it really sounded like that in front of me it wouldn't be running in my rig long.


----------



## xNovax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I must of got mine just as they started becoming super popular. I picked mine up at the Vancouver 1887 W Broadway NCIX, 5+ were in stock at the time.
> 
> The funny thing is, I didn't "need" it, I was using a first gen h100, with the crappy hard pcb tubing, I had it ghetto rigged too. The pumps fan controller died (the piece where you plug in the 2+ corsair fans + corsair link if you have it), Anyway it died, so I took the cover off the top of the pump, and discovered that the pump is just a 3 pin that was connected to a PWM splitter. So i removed the pumps PWM, and ran the 3 pin to a 3pin > 4 pin molex converter and had it running another 3-4 months like that with the fans connected to PWM headers on my MB.
> 
> Back to the point. I don't regret getting the h220 at all. Guy at NCIX said the h100i does the same thing. (Funny right? A salesman that advises you against spending MORE money). But the h220 is much quieter and does a much better job cooling than a first gen h100. the tubing alone provides more liquid to the cpu block


Online it still says pre order. :/


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Is that recording with case cover on or the recording device stuck up next to the pump. I had to turn my speaker volume all the way down to 4/100 to get it to be as quiet as my rig with fans/pump going. Recordings are subjective w/o the knowledge of all details so its your call. if it really sounded like that in front of me it wouldn't be running in my rig long.


That recording was taken from a few feet away. i just saw in this thread that the pump should be quieter than the fans, and that's not the case.
Well, I just took it out of the case to top off the reservoir, and the pump sounds just fine when it's not touching anything. For some reason when I mount it to my motherboard its vibrations get amplified.

Edit: I'm also getting temps in the mid 70s on my 4770K @ stock when doing small FFTs in Prime95 on both my H220s after several remounts. Is this normal? For comparison, I was hovering just below 100 when using the stock cooler.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> That recording was taken from a few feet away. i just saw in this thread that the pump should be quieter than the fans, and that's not the case.
> Well, I just took it out of the case to top off the reservoir, and the pump sounds just fine when it's not touching anything. For some reason when I mount it to my motherboard its vibrations get amplified.
> 
> Edit: I'm also getting temps in the mid 70s on my 4770K @ stock when doing small FFTs in Prime95 on both my H220s after several remounts. Is this normal? For comparison, I was hovering just below 100 when using the stock cooler.


Sounds like it is not correctly seated to the CPU. which orientation have you mounted the pump?
Are you using the stock fans, intake or exhaust?
Which case setup and what is your ambient temps outside?


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Sounds like it is not correctly seated to the CPU. which orientation have you mounted the pump?
> Are you using the stock fans, intake or exhaust?
> Which case setup and what is your ambient temps outside?


I'm using stock fans ATM as intake on my Corsair 650D. Ambient temps are about 27 C. The pump is mounted so the top of the Swiftech logo is facing to the left.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I'm using stock fans ATM as intake on my Corsair 650D. Ambient temps are about 27 C. The pump is mounted so the top of the Swiftech logo is facing to the left.


What motherboard do you have? Also does your case have a CPU cutout on the motherboard tray? It sounds like somewhere something is not seated tightly. Maybe the cpu block, the motherboard in general even perhaps.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What motherboard do you have? Also does your case have a CPU cutout on the motherboard tray? It sounds like somewhere something is not seated tightly. Maybe the cpu block, the motherboard in general even perhaps.


I have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H. Yes, the 650D has a giant cutout in the motherboard tray. I don't know how I could be seating it wrong. The screws are screwed all the way in to the mounting plate on the back. Does the waterblock's orientation matter?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H. Yes, the 650D has a giant cutout in the motherboard tray. I don't know how I could be seating it wrong. The screws are screwed all the way in to the mounting plate on the back. Does the waterblock's orientation matter?


I personally test all of these kits for noise and functionality prior to shipping them out. I guarantee you that it was operating normally and within designed parameters before I shipped it. I wasn't able to listen to the noise because I'm unable to access the link you posted. Could you please forward me a different link so that I can compare the noise you're hearing to what these kits normally sound like?


----------



## abbb

Noise.zip 56k .zip file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I personally test all of these kits for noise and functionality prior to shipping them out. I guarantee you that it was operating normally and within designed parameters before I shipped it. I wasn't able to listen to the noise because I'm unable to access the link you posted. Could you please forward me a different link so that I can compare the noise you're hearing to what these kits normally sound like?


I ran the pump out of the case and realized that the sound was normal. When I mount it to the motherboard, however, it vibrates against something and gets somewhat loud, especially at full speed. The mounting screws are screwed completely in, so I don't know what the problem might be. I've remounted it twice and gotten the same 75C at stock temperatures, and the same noise. I attached an mp3 of the noise.

Does anybody know what a standard temperature for a stock 4770K with an H220 cooler might be?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Where you looking at temps?
How is the system connected?
What settings in bios are used for fan control?
Can you go into your profile and put your system in there so that way we can help you better.

As those temps are not good for stock, which means something is wrong.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Noise.zip 56k .zip file
> 
> I ran the pump out of the case and realized that the sound was normal. When I mount it to the motherboard, however, it vibrates against something and gets somewhat loud, especially at full speed. The mounting screws are screwed completely in, so I don't know what the problem might be. I've remounted it twice and gotten the same 75C at stock temperatures, and the same noise. I attached an mp3 of the noise.
> 
> Does anybody know what a standard temperature for a stock 4770K with an H220 cooler might be?


Are you getting 75 C under prime95? What are the idle temps? What voltage the CPU are running? Any idea of room temp?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Noise.zip 56k .zip file
> 
> I ran the pump out of the case and realized that the sound was normal. When I mount it to the motherboard, however, it vibrates against something and gets somewhat loud, especially at full speed. The mounting screws are screwed completely in, so I don't know what the problem might be. I've remounted it twice and gotten the same 75C at stock temperatures, and the same noise. I attached an mp3 of the noise.
> 
> Does anybody know what a standard temperature for a stock 4770K with an H220 cooler might be?


I don't know very much about the temperature that you're getting, but I sent you a PM to try and figure out what's vibrating in your case and causing the noise that you're hearing.


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNovax*
> 
> I wish these would get in stock on NCIX.


I found one on ebay and no one seem interested in it so i placed one bid and i won







125


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you getting 75 C under prime95? What are the idle temps? What voltage the CPU are running? Any idea of room temp?


Yes, I'm getting 75 C under a small FFT prime95 torture test with the pump and fans at full speed. Idle temps are around 35 C when fans and pump are at full. Room temperature is about 27 C.
The voltage is running at auto, everything's at stock settings. I'll get you a number in a minute.
In the BIOS, I get a voltage of 1.14, and a temperature of 45 C. I get this same voltage when running Prime95
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Where you looking at temps?
> How is the system connected?
> What settings in bios are used for fan control?
> Can you go into your profile and put your system in there so that way we can help you better.
> 
> As those temps are not good for stock, which means something is wrong.


The fans and pump are all connected directly to the motherboard.
The normal fan control settings are used.
I don't know how to put my hardware directly into my profile, but here's what I've got: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/5268649/version/5268651


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The pump and fans are PWM. So the fans are not being controlled correctly.
You need to go into the bios and correctly see how the fans are being controlled.

Also use the splitter than comes with the H220 and be sure the pump is plugged into port one and the fans on the rest. Plug the splitter to the CPU header only.
Use the CPU_Fan only, it most likely the other fan headers are not correctly working with PWM fans.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The pump and fans are PWM. So the fans are not being controlled correctly.
> You need to go into the bios and correctly see how the fans are being controlled.
> 
> Also use the splitter than comes with the H220 and be sure the pump is plugged into port one and the fans on the rest. Plug the splitter to the CPU header only.
> Use the CPU_Fan only, it most likely the other fan headers are not correctly working with PWM fans.


I just tried powering the pump using only the PWM splitter, and it's the same as it was when using the motherboard.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I just tried powering the pump using only the PWM splitter, and it's the same as it was when using the motherboard.


You need to correctly set to bios to work with the pump and fans. this is the problem you are having.
Ambient temps will affect your overall temps. Higher ambient will result in higher temps. 27c is warm.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You need to correctly set to bios to work with the pump and fans. this is the problem you are having.
> Ambient temps will affect your overall temps. Higher ambient will result in higher temps. 27c is warm.


Wait, are you saying the BIOS settings are a cause of the temperature or the noise? The fan/pump speeds are being controlled just fine as the temperature rises. I'm getting 75 C when everything's at 100%. Or am I not getting what you're going after?

Pump.zip 209k .zip file

Here's an audio clip of the pump starting up and going to full speed.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Wait, are you saying the BIOS settings are a cause of the temperature or the noise? The fan/pump speeds are being controlled just fine as the temperature rises. I'm getting 75 C when everything's at 100%. Or am I not getting what you're going after?
> 
> Pump.zip 209k .zip file
> 
> Here's an audio clip of the pump starting up and going to full speed.


That noise is normal at full speed, i only hear it when I stick my ear close enough. being 3 ft away, I do not hear it.
I do not hear mine over the fans in my case.

Ambient temps will affect your total temps. 650D does lack airflow internally with the weak front end case.
Have you tried setting the H220 as exhaust to see if there is a difference.
Also make sure you remove the HDD cage in the 650D is you are not using them all.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That noise is normal at full speed, i only hear it when I stick my ear close enough. being 3 ft away, I do not hear it.
> I do not hear mine over the fans in my case.
> 
> Ambient temps will affect your total temps. 650D does lack airflow internally with the weak front end case.
> Have you tried setting the H220 as exhaust to see if there is a difference.
> Also make sure you remove the HDD cage in the 650D is you are not using them all.


The problem is I can hear it from anywhere in the room, and very clearly from 3 feet away. Even at 50% it's very audible. Compared to my first H220, this one makes more noise.

I had my first H220 as exhaust with 2 AP-15s. The temps were similar. I'm waiting on some screws to come in so I can mount the fans to the radiator with the fill port facing up. I guess I can test flipping the helix fans in the meantime.
And there aren't any HDD cages directly in front of the front fan in my case. They can't fit anyway because I have a Cooler Master Megaflow in front.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I personally test all of these kits for noise and functionality prior to shipping them out. I guarantee you that it was operating normally and within designed parameters before I shipped it. I wasn't able to listen to the noise because I'm unable to access the link you posted. Could you please forward me a different link so that I can compare the noise you're hearing to what these kits normally sound like?


Wait you? Personally? check every single h220 kit before it gets shipped out? Now that's some quality!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Wait you? Personally? check every single h220 kit before it gets shipped out? Now that's some quality!


No, just the ones that I put together for RMA replacements. Thanks though.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNovax*
> 
> Online it still says pre order. :/


Hmmm, what part of Canada do you live in? Cause all i did at the time was check store stock saw they had some, went and bought it


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> The problem is I can hear it from anywhere in the room, and very clearly from 3 feet away. Even at 50% it's very audible. Compared to my first H220, this one makes more noise.
> 
> I had my first H220 as exhaust with 2 AP-15s. The temps were similar. I'm waiting on some screws to come in so I can mount the fans to the radiator with the fill port facing up. I guess I can test flipping the helix fans in the meantime.
> And there aren't any HDD cages directly in front of the front fan in my case. They can't fit anyway because I have a Cooler Master Megaflow in front.


Save yourself some time, don't bother flipping fans trying intake, exhaust etc etc. I have done all that stuff and temps really stayed the same no matter what.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> The problem is I can hear it from anywhere in the room, and very clearly from 3 feet away. Even at 50% it's very audible. Compared to my first H220, this one makes more noise.
> 
> I had my first H220 as exhaust with 2 AP-15s. The temps were similar. I'm waiting on some screws to come in so I can mount the fans to the radiator with the fill port facing up. I guess I can test flipping the helix fans in the meantime.
> And there aren't any HDD cages directly in front of the front fan in my case. They can't fit anyway because I have a Cooler Master Megaflow in front.


Fill port down can cause extra noise as air bubbles has no where to go.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> The problem is I can hear it from anywhere in the room, and very clearly from 3 feet away. Even at 50% it's very audible. Compared to my first H220, this one makes more noise.
> 
> I had my first H220 as exhaust with 2 AP-15s. The temps were similar. *I'm waiting on some screws to come in so I can mount the fans to the radiator with the fill port facing up*. I guess I can test flipping the helix fans in the meantime.
> And there aren't any HDD cages directly in front of the front fan in my case. They can't fit anyway because I have a Cooler Master Megaflow in front.


This is most likely your noise problem. You won't be able to bleed the air out of the pump, as recommended in the OP, with the res pointing down. As soon as you can flip it, follow the directions in the OP and compare. Also 27*C ambient is quite high. Before I moved my ambient was always around 20-23*C. Which means your temps are 4-7* hotter than your rig would be in my ambients.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This is most likely your noise problem. You won't be able to bleed the air out of the pump, as recommended in the OP, with the res pointing down. As soon as you can flip it, follow the directions in the OP and compare. Also 27*C ambient is quite high. Before I moved my ambient was always around 20-23*C. Which means your temps are 4-7* hotter than your rig would be in my ambients.


I meant I have it in stock configuration now, and will put my AP-15 fans on when the screws come in. The fill port is facing up right now.


----------



## mastahg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> That recording was taken from a few feet away. i just saw in this thread that the pump should be quieter than the fans, and that's not the case.
> Well, I just took it out of the case to top off the reservoir, and the pump sounds just fine when it's not touching anything. For some reason when I mount it to my motherboard its vibrations get amplified.
> 
> Edit: I'm also getting temps in the mid 70s on my 4770K @ stock when doing small FFTs in Prime95 on both my H220s after several remounts. Is this normal? For comparison, I was hovering just below 100 when using the stock cooler.


Not surprising. The 4770k has same problems as ivy bridge Need to delid if you wanna get better performance. Also, watch your voltage when using prime95 as the AVX instruction set will drastically increase the voltage


----------



## tmsmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Thanks all for the post. I just disconnected both fans and ran the pump only at full speed. It sounds like a very low stead hum at 3000RPMs. I'm assuming this is what it's suppose to sound like.
> 
> After unplugging the pump and running only the rad fans it sounds like the racket is coming from the fan themselves. The screws to the case seem to be tight. Could it be a bad fan? I mounted like such with a pull configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! By the way, it's probably a bad fan and we can replace it for you. Just send an email to [email protected], along with your invoice for the purchase of your kit. I'll take care of getting you a replacement fan on Monday when I get in.
Click to expand...

Hey Bryan,
Any update to this? I sent you the email this week. Thanks again!


----------



## TheEnergy

I emailed bram for an RMA and have this swiftech lying in my room ready to return. How long to RMAs usually take?

I made the SEVERE mistake of ordering the new Coolermaster 240L Eisberger and it has plastic stand offs.

This and my temps hit 100C and thermal throttled and PC shut down.

sigh. it cost me 180$ and I only bought it because my pump died on my h220 but how long does the RMA process take?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I emailed bram for an RMA and have this swiftech lying in my room ready to return. How long to RMAs usually take?
> 
> I made the SEVERE mistake of ordering the new Coolermaster 240L Eisberger and it has plastic stand offs.
> 
> This and my temps hit 100C and thermal throttled and PC shut down.
> 
> sigh. it cost me 180$ and I only bought it because my pump died on my h220 but how long does the RMA process take?


Usually it doesn't take that long. Unfortunately we're currently out of stock on new kits and I'm also awaiting replacement parts to build kits with. Replacement parts should come in next week so I can start building replacement kits again. I'm sorry about this, and that's the reason for the current delay.


----------



## xNovax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Hmmm, what part of Canada do you live in? Cause all i did at the time was check store stock saw they had some, went and bought it


Kingston, Only NCIX store is 3 hours away.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNovax*
> 
> Kingston, Only NCIX store is 3 hours away.


Odd. I have noticed that their website hasn't been properly reflecting their store stock lately. I have the NCIX app on my phone and it seems to have a more updated inventory than the website. But yeah that would suck big balls 6hr combined trip to get a cooler. I'm assuming you've already tried calling them to check stock / possibly secure an H220. Here in the Greater Vancouver area there's something like 5-6 NCIX, And they're all really great about holding an item for you to pick it up.

Also if you order online before noon, there's a 95% chance that your order will be processed and then shipped the following day to your doorstep. I ordered my replacement Sabertooth Z77 from them (granted i could of just went to the store and picked it up, but didn't have time). Just before Canada Day long weekend at like 3pm, thinking there would be a massive bog down considering online ordering would be offline for about 72hrs. The order was processed that afternoon. And Tuesday when NCIX reopened it was on my doorstep at 9am, and i only paid for the xpress canada post shipping. Was nothing fancy


----------



## NIK1

Everything was running fine with my h220 and now today I am getting a Asus cpu fan error 0 %.My temps are a cool 31 degrees at idle. Anyone ever have this pop up with a asus board. My board is a Sabertooth z77.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Everything was running fine with my h220 and now today I am getting a Asus cpu fan error 0 %.My temps are a cool 31 degrees at idle. Anyone ever have this pop up with a asus board. My board is a Sabertooth z77.[/quote
> 
> Yeah, bro. Does it say "CPU_Fan Error" on the POST screen dude?
> 
> That means your pump isn't working. Either bypass the PWM splitter (if you using it) or try a different CPU fan header on your motherboard.
> 
> I have an ASUS z87 Sabertooth, had the same error message -PUMP was DEAD.
> 
> Hope you have better luck bro.


----------



## NIK1

If the pump was dead would I not have high temps,,at idle the temp is 30 cel.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Everything was running fine with my h220 and now today I am getting a Asus cpu fan error 0 %.My temps are a cool 31 degrees at idle. Anyone ever have this pop up with a asus board. My board is a Sabertooth z77.


If your CPU temp is staying low then it's a reporting error from the board. I've had this happen on my Maximus V Formula that I'm currently using on my work computer here. I'm still doing some random tests to see if I can determine what's causing it. It usually happens though when I'm testing fans. After putting the fan speed setting at Full Speed or Turbo I shortly thereafter get a CPU fan error of 0%. I've had HWMonitor running and my CPU temps have stayed within norms for idle and maximum load. I'm thinking that it's just a temporary reporting error because it usually goes away after a couple of minutes.


----------



## NIK1

I think the cpu fan error is fixed. I uninstalled the asus ai suite, reinstalled it and now it shows the cpu fan speed. Must be buggy asus software.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I think the cpu fan error is fixed. I uninstalled the asus ai suite, reinstalled it and now it shows the cpu fan speed. Must be buggy asus software.


I stop using it on my Z77 Sabertooth. It installs thermal radar and others, even after you uninstall other software is left.
Speedfan works much better, and less buggy.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I stop using it on my Z77 Sabertooth. It installs thermal radar and others, even after you uninstall other software is left.
> Speedfan works much better, and less buggy.


I hate using software to control anything inside of windows that has to do with whats going on inside my case. Which is why i modded my GTX 670's bios vs overclocking through a program


----------



## Watagump

We need more people that haven't had any issues to start posting. All the bad posts make it seem like the norm. I have not had an issue.


----------



## bobsaget

Me neither, mine works like a charm for the moment


----------



## Phoebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> We need more people that haven't had any issues to start posting. All the bad posts make it seem like the norm. I have not had an issue.


I've had my H220 for about a month now, and it has worked perfectly. I've been meaning to join the club but I'm waiting until I get my new sleeved psu cables installed so that I can post some nice pics.

I've got my H220 set up in a Corsair 500R case, with the fans mounted on top under the grill and the rad / res inside the case, with the fans pushing air into the case over the rad. Temps on my i7 3820 have been great: upper 20s/ lower 30s idle, upper 60s during Prime small FFTs.

The only thing I've worried about is having my res mounted fill port down (the 500R doesn't allow it to mount right-side up inside the case), but so far I've had no issues with pump noise -- it's been as quiet as a mouse.

Thus far I've been amazed at the quality of this unit. My old i7 950 / Hyper 212+ build idled in the 50s, and my Antec 1200 case, beastly as it was for air cooling, was WAY too loud. I decided to prioritize cool and quiet in this new build, and the H220 has exceeded my expectations in this regard.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> I've had my H220 for about a month now, and it has worked perfectly. I've been meaning to join the club but I'm waiting until I get my new sleeved psu cables installed so that I can post some nice pics.
> 
> I've got my H220 set up in a Corsair 500R case, with the fans mounted on top under the grill and the rad / res inside the case, with the fans pushing air into the case over the rad. Temps on my i7 3820 have been great: upper 20s/ lower 30s idle, upper 60s during Prime small FFTs.
> 
> The only thing I've worried about is having my res mounted fill port down (the 500R doesn't allow it to mount right-side up inside the case), but so far I've had no issues with pump noise -- it's been as quiet as a mouse.
> 
> Thus far I've been amazed at the quality of this unit. My old i7 950 / Hyper 212+ build idled in the 50s, and my Antec 1200 case, beastly as it was for air cooling, was WAY too loud. I decided to prioritize cool and quiet in this new build, and the H220 has exceeded my expectations in this regard.


you can tell the speed of the pump?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> you can tell the speed of the pump?


I can, mine is running off the CPU1 header which my bios reports at around 1200RPM.


----------



## Phoebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I can, mine is running off the CPU1 header which my bios reports at around 1200RPM.


Yep, most of the time mine is around 1200-1300. When I push it hard, it will spin up to almost 3k (during a Prime 95 run, for example).


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Everything was running fine with my h220 and now today I am getting a Asus cpu fan error 0 %.My temps are a cool 31 degrees at idle. Anyone ever have this pop up with a asus board. My board is a Sabertooth z77.


Yup AI Suite isnt so sweet at times but is a neat little package and works well 90% of the time. Controlling most useful oc'ing features from desktop is useful but doesn't save the setting but gives you a good idea of what you may need to change to get OC better or to work at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> you can tell the speed of the pump?
> 
> 
> 
> I can, mine is running off the CPU1 header which my bios reports at around 1200RPM.
Click to expand...

I suggest ramping it up over 2000 rpm every once in a while to make sure it isnt have the same problem as others. Mine gained the noise problem after about 3-4 weeks of 24/7 use. It actually got worse after trying OP fix techniques. One thing left to try is to do the techniques with the fill port off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I can, mine is running off the CPU1 header which my bios reports at around 1200RPM.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, most of the time mine is around 1200-1300. When I push it hard, it will spin up to almost 3k (during a Prime 95 run, for example).
Click to expand...

Make note of the sound now just so you can be sure if something is going wrong or not in the future.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Mine is at 30% speed 1760rpm from speed fan


----------



## hrana

I've had the H220 for two days. I have mounted the pump sideways because the right-hose leans on the first module in the first memory slot of the Asus Z87-WS motherboard. So far the temperature readings are much lower and I'm pleased with that aspect of the cooler but I keep pulling my hair out due to a clickity-klak noise that I can hear from across the room. I've made a few videos of the noise but I've been assured this is normal behavior by Swiftech tech support. To be honest, I'm not completely convinced as I've seen quite a few H220 kits that don't have this noise.

Anyway, I attempted to follow the "air bubble removal" instructions again and noticed that when the case is titled away from me the noise disappears (pump RPM is below 1350) at about a 45 degree angle. When the case is tilted towards me, the noise gets louder. The noise disappears above 1400-1500RPM and the pump is quiet to about 2200RPM. Above 2200RPM I can (faintly) hear the noise in addition to the (expected) louder noise of the pump itself. Is this indicative of an air bubble, faulty pump, or is it normal behavior?

I have made a video of the tilting behavior and sent it over to Swiftech tech support but I probably won't hear back until Monday so I figured I'd post a question here and see if someone can help out. I really want to get this figured out as soon as possible so I can finish this build for my dad's upcoming birthday.


----------



## eiji-gravion

Is it really necessary to use the coolant or would distilled water and possibly a silver killcoil be sufficient?

Thanks


----------



## jbduck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You fit in the Arc Midi R2, which you avoid clearance issues.


Sorry man, but what do you mean? It fits in an Arc Midi R2? So it should fit in the R4? I have heard about problems with the Sabertooth Z87 in a R4 when installing the H220. Hope someone could confirm whether it works or not.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion*
> 
> Is it really necessary to use the coolant or would distilled water and possibly a silver killcoil be sufficient?
> 
> Thanks


Killcoil not good to use, and can cause problems later on. There HydrX PM 2 Coolant is very good and should be used.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbduck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You fit in the Arc Midi R2, which you avoid clearance issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry man, but what do you mean? It fits in an Arc Midi R2? So it should fit in the R4? I have heard about problems with the Sabertooth Z87 in a R4 when installing the H220. Hope someone could confirm whether it works or not.
Click to expand...

R2 and R4 is different. The R2 top mounting is offset towards the side panel. The R4 is not, and can have clearance issues from ram, 8pin and mosffets.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eiji-gravion*
> 
> Is it really necessary to use the coolant or would distilled water and possibly a silver killcoil be sufficient?
> 
> Thanks


Stick with coolant for the H220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrana*
> 
> I've had the H220 for two days. I have mounted the pump sideways because the right-hose leans on the first module in the first memory slot of the Asus Z87-WS motherboard. So far the temperature readings are much lower and I'm pleased with that aspect of the cooler but I keep pulling my hair out due to a clickity-klak noise that I can hear from across the room. I've made a few videos of the noise but I've been assured this is normal behavior by Swiftech tech support. To be honest, I'm not completely convinced as I've seen quite a few H220 kits that don't have this noise.
> 
> Anyway, I attempted to follow the "air bubble removal" instructions again and noticed that when the case is titled away from me the noise disappears (pump RPM is below 1350) at about a 45 degree angle. When the case is tilted towards me, the noise gets louder. The noise disappears above 1400-1500RPM and the pump is quiet to about 2200RPM. Above 2200RPM I can (faintly) hear the noise in addition to the (expected) louder noise of the pump itself. Is this indicative of an air bubble, faulty pump, or is it normal behavior?
> 
> I have made a video of the tilting behavior and sent it over to Swiftech tech support but I probably won't hear back until Monday so I figured I'd post a question here and see if someone can help out. I really want to get this figured out as soon as possible so I can finish this build for my dad's upcoming birthday.


From my experience with these kits if the noise changes at all then it's most likely an air bubble. It's either that there is something that's vibrating in your case and when you tilt it the contact that's creating the vibration is reduced or removed. I would check to make sure everything is properly seated and tightened down and then proceed with the instructions to remove the air bubble from your pump. Let me know if you have any issues or need further assistance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I think the cpu fan error is fixed. I uninstalled the asus ai suite, reinstalled it and now it shows the cpu fan speed. Must be buggy asus software.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I stop using it on my Z77 Sabertooth. It installs thermal radar and others, even after you uninstall other software is left.
> Speedfan works much better, and less buggy.


yes asus software constantly gave me bad readings.

i use hwinfo64 to monitor all my temps. works great, its free and very very very customizable.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes asus software constantly gave me bad readings.
> 
> i use hwinfo64 to monitor all my temps. works great, its free and very very very customizable.


Does anyone with the sabertooth from ASus mobo know how to use the temperature sensors that plug into the motherboard?

I have them plugged in but don't know where to see the temperature reading they are acquiring...,


----------



## Mega Man

i do

there are no inputs for temp sensors on the board ( assuming you are talking about a 990fx )

nvm i see you are talking about the x87 on the CHVz

they show up as "opt 1-3" under my gpus, but you can move them up to where ever you want in the list


----------



## dansi

Been playing for a week and still very pleased. sure it cost almost twice the SA but the temps and quietness is good. i came in with low expectations and it delivered.









I also noted something, in the first few days i heard ticking coming from one of the fans. So i decided to remove it and put some oil. But it seems the bearing is sealed, so i just sprayed some through the gap in the fan hub. Ticking still persist, so i flipped the fans over, still ticking and then i noticed the "Swiftech" fan sticker was not fully stuck on. I went to press it down and bam! no more ticking noise.

I think the glue has dried and the loose ends of the sticker is flipping when the fan is spinning causing the parasitic noise


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone with the sabertooth from ASus mobo know how to use the temperature sensors that plug into the motherboard?
> I have them plugged in but don't know where to see the temperature reading they are acquiring...,


data is linked to your AI suite III Thermal Radar 2 on the Z87, you can name them what you want, default is Tsensor 1,2,3.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> data is linked to your AI suite III Thermal Radar 2 on the Z87, you can name them what you want, default is Tsensor 1,2,3.


i think he ment in hwinfo64 but i could very well be wrong.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> We need more people that haven't had any issues to start posting. All the bad posts make it seem like the norm. I have not had an issue.


I take the good w/ the bad and make up my own mind







Agree, more positive or status quo feedback would be good to see.
Have had mine running w/o any major issues for a month now, knock on wood..no overclocking just breaking the rig in slow and easy. idle temps 27-30 (ambient norm 21) game loads (Swtor) 50.


----------



## Mega Man

all my swiftech stuff runs great ( albeit i dont have a 220 )


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> R2 and R4 is different. The R2 top mounting is offset towards the side panel. The R4 is not, and can have clearance issues from ram, 8pin and mosffets.


The mount on an r2 is naturally offset, however, as the top fan mounts are for 140mm fans you can mount the 240mm rads uptop using the fan grill holes that are further from the mb. Basically gets you the same clearance either case, one was just naturally made that way. Fractal has a youtube video showing how to mount the 240mm rads in a define r4 just google.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The mount on an r2 is naturally offset, however, as the top fan mounts are for 140mm fans you can mount the 240mm rads uptop using the fan grill holes that are further from the mb. Basically gets you the same clearance either case, one was just naturally made that way. Fractal has a youtube video showing how to mount the 240mm rads in a define r4 just google.


The clearance is not the same the difference is about 10mm or so from the side panel. There is still issues with some mobo and taller ram. Issues are still the 8pin being hard to but on and remove, varies on placement.


----------



## hrana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From my experience with these kits if the noise changes at all then it's most likely an air bubble. It's either that there is something that's vibrating in your case and when you tilt it the contact that's creating the vibration is reduced or removed. I would check to make sure everything is properly seated and tightened down and then proceed with the instructions to remove the air bubble from your pump. Let me know if you have any issues or need further assistance.


Everything is snugly fitted in the case but I rechecked every screw (and item) just in case. I've been trying for hours to get the "air bubble" out to resolve the noise but have been unsuccessful. I come from the world of R/C glow-powered helicopters where we're always balancing rotating objects to minimize vibrations so I'm hoping this is just an air bubble and nothing else. I'm going to try again and see if I can fix the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The clearance is not the same the difference is about 10mm or so from the side panel. There is still issues with some mobo and taller ram. Issues are still the 8pin being hard to but on and remove, varies on placement.


Agreed... I have an Asus Z87-WS inside a Fractal Design Define R4. The radiator mount is fairly difficult because...

1. The Asus has two 8-pin connectors on the top left.
2. The Seasonic-provided 8-pin power cables are very stiff so they can't be bent out of the way to accommodate a radiator.
3. The Define R4 just doesn't have a lot of room to clear he motherboard when mounting the radiator on top with a single set of fans. I cringe at the thought of a push/pull set up because it would be difficult-to-impossible with some motherboards in this case. Tall RAM or tall motherboard heatsinks can be a problem in a push/pull set up just the same.

Fitting a 2x120mm (140mm) radiator such as the Corsair H100i or H220 can be done in this case but, as other builds on the interwebs have shown, it has to be offset from the normal (and aesthetically pleasing) mounting holes such as what I had to do...



http://imgur.com/7YtTNM6



You can see the two 8-pin connectors in this picture behind the Noctua NH-U12S I was using on the 4770K prior to the H100i and H220.



http://imgur.com/CrJ3Ogx



I have ordered a set of individually sleeved 8-pin extensions that should be more flexible. With those, I'm sure I can get a slightly prettier fit without damaging something. Either way, this case and this cooler have been more of adventure than I had thought when I began this project but that's also why I enjoy doing this stuff.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> We need more people that haven't had any issues to start posting. All the bad posts make it seem like the norm. I have not had an issue.


Checkin in! Been running mine for 2-3 weeks now at a constant 1800-2000 RPM. Nice and quiet, stays very cool. No issues here


----------



## SteveHatcher

Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice before about disconnecting the H220 so I can thread it through the cases water cooling holes. One last thing holding me back is I hear when you drain and refill you can get air stuck in the pump.

How do you know if this is the case since all the tubes are black and nothing is see through... is it a noise or something? Are there any tricks when draining or refilling to avoid this?

edit - and just how detrimental is air in the pump going to be...? Does it reduce cooling performance and / or damage the pump

Thanks


----------



## jbduck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrana*
> 
> I have an Asus Z87-WS inside a Fractal Design Define R4. The radiator mount is fairly difficult


Thanks for the pics! I wonder if the heatsinks on the Asus Z87-WS is smaller than the ones on the Sabertooth Z87...


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrana*
> 
> Everything is snugly fitted in the case but I rechecked every screw (and item) just in case. I've been trying for hours to get the "air bubble" out to resolve the noise but have been unsuccessful. I come from the world of R/C glow-powered helicopters where we're always balancing rotating objects to minimize vibrations so I'm hoping this is just an air bubble and nothing else. I'm going to try again and see if I can fix the issue.
> Agreed... I have an Asus Z87-WS inside a Fractal Design Define R4. The radiator mount is fairly difficult because...
> 
> 1. The Asus has two 8-pin connectors on the top left.
> 2. The Seasonic-provided 8-pin power cables are very stiff so they can't be bent out of the way to accommodate a radiator.
> 3. The Define R4 just doesn't have a lot of room to clear he motherboard when mounting the radiator on top with a single set of fans. I cringe at the thought of a push/pull set up because it would be difficult-to-impossible with some motherboards in this case. Tall RAM or tall motherboard heatsinks can be a problem in a push/pull set up just the same.
> 
> Fitting a 2x120mm (140mm) radiator such as the Corsair H100i or H220 can be done in this case but, as other builds on the interwebs have shown, it has to be offset from the normal (and aesthetically pleasing) mounting holes such as what I had to do...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/7YtTNM6
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the two 8-pin connectors in this picture behind the Noctua NH-U12S I was using on the 4770K prior to the H100i and H220.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CrJ3Ogx
> 
> 
> 
> I have ordered a set of individually sleeved 8-pin extensions that should be more flexible. With those, I'm sure I can get a slightly prettier fit without damaging something. Either way, this case and this cooler have been more of adventure than I had thought when I began this project but that's also why I enjoy doing this stuff.






fyi i have used this set up with a x750 and a xfx 1250w ( also a seasonic )
i have a rad smashed against the psu modular cables ( literally touching them ) and same on my top 8 pin. you can do it but it takes some time and minor elbow grease, personally i would highly recommend against extensions, every extension i have seen is aluminum wiring, not to mention even if it were copper adds length and resistance. when looking for max oc these can do more harm then it helps


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> fyi i have used this set up with a x750 and a xfx 1250w ( also a seasonic )
> i have a rad smashed against the psu modular cables ( literally touching them ) and same on my top 8 pin. you can do it but it takes some time and minor elbow grease, personally i would highly recommend against extensions, every extension i have seen is aluminum wiring, not to mention even if it were copper adds length and resistance. when looking for max oc these can do more harm then it helps


One of my PSUs definitely doesn't have a problem with resistance







.



OK, so I did run custom extensions, but they were hand made, very short, and copper









That's the old PSU though, now going in Pandora's Box.

My rig has an XFX Gold 850w modular PSU with sleeved stock cables.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It is coming. Announced on there FB page.
https://www.facebook.com/SwiftechUSA?hc_location=stream


----------



## APhamX

Microcenter said they will not be restocking on these anymore. Apparently there is going to be a new one out?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Microcenter said they will not be restocking on these anymore. Apparently there is going to be a new one out?


There is not a new one to replace the H220. The H320 is the large size coming.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is not a new one to replace the H220. The H320 is the large size coming.


But.. But.. I can't fit the H320 in my 650d D: ... Ugh. I have to find a H220


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> But.. But.. I can't fit the H320 in my 650d D: ... Ugh. I have to find a H220


Buy the H320 when it comes out, I will trade you for my H220. You can even pay the shipping for me to send and for you to send, that's how cool I am.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Microcenter said they will not be restocking on these anymore. Apparently there is going to be a new one out?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is not a new one to replace the H220. The H320 is the large size coming.


ppl who work at microcenter are 99% of the time morons in nice clothes trying to over sell you to make profit and no nothing about what corporate wants.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is coming. Announced on there FB page.
> https://www.facebook.com/SwiftechUSA?hc_location=stream


HOORAY! I bee waiting for this for a very long time! I wonder if it will come with the sata connectors like promised!


----------



## ghostrider85

i think they should restock the h220 first before releasing another one, this thing is OOS almost everywhere.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> One of my PSUs definitely doesn't have a problem with resistance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> OK, so I did run custom extensions, but they were hand made, very short, and copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the old PSU though, now going in Pandora's Box.
> 
> My rig has an XFX Gold 850w modular PSU with sleeved stock cables.


just saw this post

copper vs aluminum very different
but again in most cases ( i have a full tower, bottom mount psu ) and i dont need extentions on my 8 pin. ( soon will do 100% custom cables though so meh, fully sleaved. thinking red and white sleeves and...... cable sewed.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ppl who work at microcenter are 99% of the time morons in nice clothes trying to over sell you to make profit and no nothing about what corporate wants.


^this. It is like pulling teeth to get something you actually want out of a microcenter employee.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> ^this. It is like pulling teeth to get something you actually want out of a microcenter employee.


I had trouble asking them if they had any Tahiti GPU's so I can crossfire with my current one. They didn't know that the 7870's had two different architectures. And it took another guy awhile to find out whether or not my motherboard I was looking at had usb 3.0 headers or not. Oh well, still point being. I want a h220 D:


----------



## gdubc

You are best left on your own when it comes to microcenter. The guy looked at me like I was crazy when I wanted to check the motherboard (mvf, not a cheapo) I was getting for bent pins before I bought it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You are best left on your own when it comes to microcenter. The guy looked at me like I was crazy when I wanted to check the motherboard (mvf, not a cheapo) I was getting for bent pins before I bought it.


The one guy that I talked to was fine with me checking for bent pins, he just said be careful with it.


----------



## drnilly007

Here's my video of my pump noise that started within the last week.





I had my H220 for about a month and was estatic about the temps, noise and price. I was looking to expand my H220 to include a 240mm rad, and gpu. Then one day I noticed it was much noisier than previously. I run my computer 24/7 for [email protected] so it is at 100% load nearly all the time. The H220 was run at about 1600-2000 rpm, as temps dont seem to change all that much at full speed. 3770k @4.6 with 85-95f ambient is about 82c avg temp.


----------



## michael-ocn

Ouch... that is a super annoying sound! Odd that it goes away so completely at 1500rpm instead of just getting less noisy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Here's my video of my pump noise that started within the last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my H220 for about a month and was estatic about the temps, noise and price. I was looking to expand my H220 to include a 240mm rad, and gpu. Then one day I noticed it was much noisier than previously. I run my computer 24/7 for [email protected] so it is at 100% load nearly all the time. The H220 was run at about 1600-2000 rpm, as temps dont seem to change all that much at full speed. 3770k @4.6 with 85-95f ambient is about 82c avg temp.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ouch... that is a super annoying sound! Odd that it goes away so completely at 1500rpm instead of just getting less noisy.


That has me puzzled as well because from what I've seen so far. If the noise goes away then it's either an air bubble or it's something that's vibrating against the pump. That's been my experience thus far and I really don't know what else it could be. Drnilly007 also told me that the noise pretty much goes away when he's testing it outside of the case. Due to that I highly doubt that it's something wrong with the pump. I'm going to talk with our engineer tomorrow morning and try to figure out what his problem could be.


----------



## drnilly007

Here's 2nd video with it out of the case.






A little bit quieter, but not great either.

I sure am getting good at installing this bad boy, lol.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Here's 2nd video with it out of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit quieter, but not great either.
> 
> I sure am getting good at installing this bad boy, lol.


I have the same sound, I had to put 1800 rpm to not make much noise .. it is unfortunate that many have the same problem.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I have the same sound, I had to put 1800 rpm to not make much noise .. it is unfortunate that many have the same problem.


1 i wouldnt say many do (many more units ship without problems then with, they just dont post )
2 problems dont just make random things happen, usually any product has the same issues with the same symptoms, you dont think your repair guys know that much more then you do you? they just know what to look for and what to do to fix it, i am in ac and a trained monkey could do my job. yes there are things you need to know. but really all problem solving is this

what is it supposed to do
what is it doing
why is it doing that. ( what is the difference )


----------



## Hayness

Anyone using a Swiftech H220 in a Nanoxia deep silence 1 case? I thought I could top mount it without much issue but my local pc store has already warned me the h220 won't fit with a Maxims VI Hero as it hits the motherboard heatsinks. Not sure what to do, could front mount it but seems more trouble than a simple top mount. Have not bought any parts yet.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> Anyone using a Swiftech H220 in a Nanoxia deep silence 1 case? I thought I could top mount it without much issue but my local pc store has already warned me the h220 won't fit with a Maxims VI Hero as it hits the motherboard heatsinks. Not sure what to do, could front mount it but seems more trouble than a simple top mount. Have not bought any parts yet.


Maybe a different case is in mind?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> Anyone using a Swiftech H220 in a Nanoxia deep silence 1 case? I thought I could top mount it without much issue but my local pc store has already warned me the h220 won't fit with a Maxims VI Hero as it hits the motherboard heatsinks. Not sure what to do, could front mount it but seems more trouble than a simple top mount. Have not bought any parts yet.


I'm using a Nanoxia deep silence 1 at work and it fits the H220 just fine. The issue though is that your particular motherboard has a very tall heat sink at the top of it. That's what is preventing the H220 from fitting in that case. You're going to need to chose another case with more room at the top to accommodate your motherboard and the H220.


----------



## Hayness

I would like to keep the Nanoxia case since it has just about everything I want (silent, minimalist, fan controllers) and I would rather change some parts to fit it all in accordingly.

Maybe the Gigabyte UD4H can fit instead or are all the heatsinks on the high end motherboards too tall? Also hoping the new Corsair Vengeance Pro ram isn't too high or should I go low profile?

The help is much appreciated, if all else fails then I guess I need to consider another case. Local store recommended the Corsair C70 case instead.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Does anyone have any idea when the H320 comes out? I've been holding off from buying the H220 and now I just need to hold on some more...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea when the H320 comes out? I've been holding off from buying the H220 and now I just need to hold on some more...


VERY soon according to their FB page.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> I would like to keep the Nanoxia case since it has just about everything I want (silent, minimalist, fan controllers) and I would rather change some parts to fit it all in accordingly.
> 
> Maybe the Gigabyte UD4H can fit instead or are all the heatsinks on the high end motherboards too tall? Also hoping the new Corsair Vengeance Pro ram isn't too high or should I go low profile?
> 
> The help is much appreciated, if all else fails then I guess I need to consider another case. Local store recommended the Corsair C70 case instead.


C70 is worse with problems of clearance also.
The UD4H will have the same issues. its the heatsink on top is the problem.

Lower profile ram if you can get it, would be sure not to have issues.
Fractal Arc MIdi R2 would be the best choice.


----------



## MadeinUganda

Anyone here know if I can fit a h220 in a Define R4 and Msi Z77 Mpower? I'm kinda of hesitant on buying the h220 due to how tall the heat sinks are on the mpower and how the define r4 doesn't offset the mounts for a 240mm rad like the arc midi r2. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadeinUganda*
> 
> Anyone here know if I can fit a h220 in a Define R4 and Msi Z77 Mpower? I'm kinda of hesitant on buying the h220 due to how tall the heat sinks are on the mpower and how the define r4 doesn't offset the mounts for a 240mm rad like the arc midi r2. Thanks in advance!


You will have to make your own, hopefully its not blocked by anything.
Why didnt you get the Arc Midi R2?


----------



## gdubc

I cant remember of it was mentioned earlier or not, but does anyone know if the h320 will be the same pump as the h220?


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Anyone know what's the smallest case I can fit this in that will hold an ATX board as well?
> Without modding that is. I want to use it in a HTPC build.
> Thanks...


Anyone?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I cant remember of it was mentioned earlier or not, but does anyone know if the h320 will be the same pump as the h220?


Pump same as H220
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> Anyone know what's the smallest case I can fit this in that will hold an ATX board as well?
> Without modding that is. I want to use it in a HTPC build.
> Thanks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

Not going to find smaller with ATX. If you want small MATX or ITX.
Only other option is HTPC case, but finding on that supports 240rad is not easy, as it will be on its side.


----------



## bond32

I'm planning ahead here, but the pump is very strong right? I want to upgrade to the new corsair 540 case soon, I'm also considering getting the xspc ax360 rad to go with my h220. It's cooling an fx 6300 and one 7970 with a heatkiller nickel block.

Also the swiftech coolant, I know it's been discussed before but does it cause issues between metal types? If so is the h220 block, can I simply disassemble it to clean it from time to time?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I'm planning ahead here, but the pump is very strong right? I want to upgrade to the new corsair 540 case soon, I'm also considering getting the xspc ax360 rad to go with my h220. It's cooling an fx 6300 and one 7970 with a heatkiller nickel block.
> 
> Also the swiftech coolant, I know it's been discussed before but does it cause issues between metal types? If so is the h220 block, can I simply disassemble it to clean it from time to time?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


The H220 pump will be able to handle those components. Our coolant doesn't have any known issues with different metals. Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns before starting your build.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I'm planning ahead here, but the pump is very strong right? I want to upgrade to the new corsair 540 case soon, I'm also considering getting the xspc ax360 rad to go with my h220. It's cooling an fx 6300 and one 7970 with a heatkiller nickel block.
> 
> Also the swiftech coolant, I know it's been discussed before but does it cause issues between metal types? If so is the h220 block, can I simply disassemble it to clean it from time to time?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


Issue is the clearance from the 360 and 240 rad on top. It will vary on thickness and if you plan to go Push/pull.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Hi guys I have now got an H220 images will be up soon I have fitted it and its running now but I can smell either burning or a new part smell I dont really know its coming from the pump but the temps are not high at all they are really low is this normal? if it helps i am running fans on top as the case makes it a tight fit
thanks hope someone can help


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Hi guys I have now got an H220 images will be up soon I have fitted it and its running now but I can smell either burning or a new part smell I dont really know its coming from the pump but the temps are not high at all they are really low is this normal? if it helps i am running fans on top as the case makes it a tight fit
> thanks hope someone can help


Did you take the plastic off the block before you seated it?


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Hi guys I have now got an H220 images will be up soon I have fitted it and its running now but I can smell either burning or a new part smell I dont really know its coming from the pump but the temps are not high at all they are really low is this normal? if it helps i am running fans on top as the case makes it a tight fit
> thanks hope someone can help


My h220 rad had a distinctive smell during the first days of use. Not a smell of burning parts though, but the smell of "new components" that disappeared afterwards.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Issue is the clearance from the 360 and 240 rad on top. It will vary on thickness and if you plan to go Push/pull.


Not doing push pull. In the Corsaid 540 case, I would like to have the stock h220 rad as pull in the top, with the AX360 as push in the front. I believe this will fit without any problems, as well as I will not need a reservoir. Also the Corsair 540, when the rad is mounted up top the fill port will also be facing up and with the entire loop installed, I should be able to fill the unit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Hi guys I have now got an H220 images will be up soon I have fitted it and its running now but I can smell either burning or a new part smell I dont really know its coming from the pump but the temps are not high at all they are really low is this normal? if it helps i am running fans on top as the case makes it a tight fit
> thanks hope someone can help


I believe that's just the smell of the paint on the radiator. It will go away in a day or two.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Not doing push pull. In the Corsaid 540 case, I would like to have the stock h220 rad as pull in the top, with the AX360 as push in the front. I believe this will fit without any problems, as well as I will not need a reservoir. Also the Corsair 540, when the rad is mounted up top the fill port will also be facing up and with the entire loop installed, I should be able to fill the unit.


The issue is the clearance on the top right corner. option is to remove the front dust filter (the cover can still fit) and mount the fan on the front and the rad inside. That should avoid clearance issues.
As the AX360 is not a slim rad, at 40mm.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The issue is the clearance on the top right corner. option is to remove the front dust filter (the cover can still fit) and mount the fan on the front and the rad inside. That should avoid clearance issues.
> As the AX360 is not a slim rad, at 40mm.


That was what I was planning on doing. Without the case here yet I won't know for sure, but worst case I will ditch the h220 rad and just get a reservoir.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That was what I was planning on doing. Without the case here yet I won't know for sure, but worst case I will ditch the h220 rad and just get a reservoir.


You could also go with a 240 top and 280 in front. Once you get it, lots of measurements.
As for the AX360, higher static fans are needed to cool the rad. With its denser FPI.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

The answers to all the questions/answers to my question
1. Yes i have removed the plastic under the heat sink
2.also I believe it not to be burning smell but it deffo smells new when its running Its not broken at least I don't think so all temps are good been running prime 95 for over and hour now and never gone over 40C
3.Well I believe the smell is coming from the pump and not the rad or fans But if the smell does not go away then I shall report it on here for more help.
Also do i need image proof to become part of the group?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> The answers to all the questions/answers to my question
> 1. Yes i have removed the plastic under the heat sink
> 2.also I believe it not to be burning smell but it deffo smells new when its running Its not broken at least I don't think so all temps are good been running prime 95 for over and hour now and never gone over 40C
> 3.Well I believe the smell is coming from the pump and not the rad or fans But if the smell does not go away then I shall report it on here for more help.
> Also do i need image proof to become part of the group?


They are right, I installed mine so long ago I had forgotten about the paint curing smell. It will go away quickly, and there is nothing to worry about.

As for the images, I'm not sure.. It couldn't hurt as we're all fans xD


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> They are right, I installed mine so long ago I had forgotten about the paint curing smell. It will go away quickly, and there is nothing to worry about.
> 
> As for the images, I'm not sure.. It couldn't hurt as we're all fans xD


I will add some images now with this post then
and also ye I guess so











It was a supper close fit with this case and motherboard


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> I will add some images now with this post then
> and also ye I guess so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a supper close fit with this case and motherboard


Nicely done!

That really does look like it was a close fit, it looks like 1 MM or less clearance xD


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> That really does look like it was a close fit, it looks like 1 MM or less clearance xD


It touches the ram if the pipe moves from that place and makes it bend a very little amount


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> I will add some images now with this post then
> and also ye I guess so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a supper close fit with this case and motherboard


Have you tried to rotate the rad so the tubing is towards the front, so the hoses are not so jumbled.
Also you can try to rotate the pump so the hoses are top/down.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

As i am using the AMD socket it only allows me to have it two ways up or down i tried both and it was still touching or super close also I can not have the RAD facing the other way as it does not fit because the 8pin CPU power cable is in the way if it was not in the way i would have had it that way though. looking at my images are my fans blowing or sucking in AIR by the way ??


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> As i am using the AMD socket it only allows me to have it two ways up or down i tried both and it was still touching or super close also I can not have the RAD facing the other way as it does not fit because the 8pin CPU power cable is in the way if it was not in the way i would have had it that way though. looking at my images are my fans blowing or sucking in AIR by the way ??


The mount is one way, you should be able to rotate the pump only. Hoses up and down.
So how do you have the fill port? It is facing up or down?

The hoses towards the front should not affect the 8pin as the height is exactly the same. best to take a picture too see placement.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> I will add some images now with this post then
> and also ye I guess so


That looks like a pretty nice midsize case for air cooling gpus. Does the top cover fit with the h220 fans mounted up there?


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That looks like a pretty nice midsize case for air cooling gpus. Does the top cover fit with the h220 fans mounted up there?


Ye it will only fit the fans up there as the res sticks out to much and ye its good for air cooling but its a bit more hard for water cooling with this case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The mount is one way, you should be able to rotate the pump only. Hoses up and down.
> So how do you have the fill port? It is facing up or down?
> 
> The hoses towards the front should not affect the 8pin as the height is exactly the same. best to take a picture too see placement.






them are the images that might help you work this out


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*


Bummer the res + fill port is aiming down instead of up. I see it would it would take some cutting to be able to flip it around.
http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5c/5ce348d7_2013-07-15-546.jpeg

Every now and then you may need to pull it out to get air out the loop since it won't get trapped in the res so easily.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> I would like to keep the Nanoxia case since it has just about everything I want (silent, minimalist, fan controllers) and I would rather change some parts to fit it all in accordingly.
> 
> Maybe the Gigabyte UD4H can fit instead or are all the heatsinks on the high end motherboards too tall? Also hoping the new Corsair Vengeance Pro ram isn't too high or should I go low profile?
> 
> The help is much appreciated, if all else fails then I guess I need to consider another case. Local store recommended the Corsair C70 case instead.


I did have a PC with nanoxia and h220 top (and at some point front) mount. Use x79 boards here (Asus Px79 pro e deluxe) and x79 rampage IV extreme and no problem whatsoever to mount the h220 rad. The top mount of the DS1 can accept 280 rads which means that 240 rad is dislocated to the left. What can happen is that the 8 cpu pin will be kind of behind the end of the rad on top and you should plug 8 pin cable and fans before fixing the rad on the case. Other than that it worked just fine. Check the height of the x79 boards heatsinks and ram position against the MB you want.

As for the corsair c70 I personally would stay away from that since is a different case altogether in regard to the features you like in the DS1.

Hope that helps


----------



## bond32

Does anyone run the h220 pump with thick rads? Just curious what kinds of performance they get. I am looking into either the XSPC RX240, RX360, and/or the AX360.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Here's my video of my pump noise that started within the last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had my H220 for about a month and was estatic about the temps, noise and price. I was looking to expand my H220 to include a 240mm rad, and gpu. Then one day I noticed it was much noisier than previously. I run my computer 24/7 for [email protected] so it is at 100% load nearly all the time. The H220 was run at about 1600-2000 rpm, as temps dont seem to change all that much at full speed. 3770k @4.6 with 85-95f ambient is about 82c avg temp.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ouch... that is a super annoying sound! Odd that it goes away so completely at 1500rpm instead of just getting less noisy.


I appear to be having the same issue now







Very quiet from 1500-1700 RPMs, but then starts making that exact noise full tilt. Tried the air bubble remove method, but haven't gotten anywhere. Gonna try again later. Cooling an i5-2500k @ 4.4 GHz (1.36v)


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I appear to be having the same issue now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very quiet from 1500-1700 RPMs, but then starts making that exact noise full tilt. Tried the air bubble remove method, but haven't gotten anywhere. Gonna try again later. Cooling an i5-2500k @ 4.4 GHz (1.36v)


I recently added a reservoir to my h220 to allow the ability to "bleed" the system correctly as I had to mount my rad below the pump. I found that getting the air out of the loop was insanely time consuming.

During initial start-up of the loop after having installed the reservoir, i found that laying the computer on its side and tilting (with pump running) it from one side to the other side helped the most.

Thing is, while tilting the computer i noticed that once a bubble was dislodged with the pump running... it would (this might seem obvious) blast the bubble apart creating a "bubble cloud" that would ultimately get sucked back down to the rad by the current.

After having got most of the "big" air pockets I was simply tiered of tilting my case around (fully loaded rv02 is a bit bulky) and just put the unit into its rightful home and started using it.

Now that 2 weeks of use has gone by (sleep, on, sleep, on, heavy load, sleep...) the reservoir now has a decent sized bubble that I can feel more comfortable with saying the system is properly bled.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I recently added a reservoir to my h220 to allow the ability to "bleed" the system correctly as I had to mount my rad below the pump. I found that getting the air out of the loop was insanely time consuming.
> 
> During initial start-up of the loop after having installed the reservoir, i found that laying the computer on its side and tilting (with pump running) it from one side to the other side helped the most.
> 
> Thing is, while tilting the computer i noticed that once a bubble was dislodged with the pump running... it would (this might seem obvious) blast the bubble apart creating a "bubble cloud" that would ultimately get sucked back down to the rad by the current.
> 
> After having got most of the "big" air pockets I was simply tiered of tilting my case around (fully loaded rv02 is a bit bulky) and just put the unit into its rightful home and started using it.
> 
> Now that 2 weeks of use has gone by (sleep, on, sleep, on, heavy load, sleep...) the reservoir now has a decent sized bubble that I can feel more comfortable with saying the system is properly bled.


So you think it's just a bubble? That'd be a relief. I'm thinking about getting a micro res or something to pair with it to make it easier (I have to have the rad upside down because there's not enough room at the top of my 600T for the rad and the fans). Thanks for the response


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> So you think it's just a bubble? That'd be a relief. I'm thinking about getting a micro res or something to pair with it to make it easier (I have to have the rad upside down because there's not enough room at the top of my 600T for the rad and the fans). Thanks for the response


Getting a Micro Res should definitely help your situation and keep air bubbles from getting pulled into your pump when evaporation eventually occurs. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns about this and let me know if MadGoat's instructions are able to help you as well. + Rep to you MadGoat. Thanks for your help.


----------



## MadeinUganda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You will have to make your own, hopefully its not blocked by anything.
> Why didnt you get the Arc Midi R2?


I bought the Define R4 before the Arc Midi 2 was announced







. If I'd known the arc midi 2 was coming out at the time, I would have bought it instead.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> Anyone using a Swiftech H220 in a Nanoxia deep silence 1 case? I thought I could top mount it without much issue but my local pc store has already warned me the h220 won't fit with a Maxims VI Hero as it hits the motherboard heatsinks. Not sure what to do, could front mount it but seems more trouble than a simple top mount. Have not bought any parts yet.


Front mount in Nanoxia is actually quite easy. Remove the lower HD cages, and bolt it in place. Not much to it.


----------



## Turt1e

I'm getting a replacement motherboard since it got fried, do I need to reuse the adhesive on the backplate?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I'm getting a replacement motherboard since it got fried, do I need to reuse the adhesive on the backplate?


Yes, if you can you should reuse the backplate.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I'm getting a replacement motherboard since it got fried, do I need to reuse the adhesive on the backplate?


In your other thread. Before you get a new mobo, you need to find out what caused the issue.


----------



## Turt1e

It might have just been a bad psu or I plugged the molex cable into the pcie port on the psu. I can't find a reason why it would do that otherwise


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I appear to be having the same issue now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very quiet from 1500-1700 RPMs, but then starts making that exact noise full tilt. Tried the air bubble remove method, but haven't gotten anywhere. Gonna try again later. Cooling an i5-2500k @ 4.4 GHz (1.36v)
> 
> 
> 
> I recently added a reservoir to my h220 to allow the ability to "bleed" the system correctly as I had to mount my rad below the pump. I found that getting the air out of the loop was insanely time consuming.
> 
> During initial start-up of the loop after having installed the reservoir, i found that laying the computer on its side and tilting (with pump running) it from one side to the other side helped the most.
> 
> Thing is, while tilting the computer i noticed that once a bubble was dislodged with the pump running... it would (this might seem obvious) blast the bubble apart creating a "bubble cloud" that would ultimately get sucked back down to the rad by the current.
> 
> After having got most of the "big" air pockets I was simply tiered of tilting my case around (fully loaded rv02 is a bit bulky) and just put the unit into its rightful home and started using it.
> 
> Now that 2 weeks of use has gone by (sleep, on, sleep, on, heavy load, sleep...) the reservoir now has a decent sized bubble that I can feel more comfortable with saying the system is properly bled.
Click to expand...

Dude, we totally need some pics, please,







. I am looking to expand the loop but had no intentions of doing once I had a horrible time with noise. Bryan helped me to fix most of the noise issue though, but would like to avoid it too maybe a res is a good idea.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I'm getting a replacement motherboard since it got fried, do I need to reuse the adhesive on the backplate?


I installed mine and didn't use the adhesive, it still has the plastic on it. When installing just get one screw lined up and in about 1-2 turns. Line up the opposite corner diagonally and screw those 2 in halfway alternating after 4-5 turns, then the other 2.

The only thing, as you screw it in, before you get about half way move the back bracket pieces in place so they fit into the motherboard and screw in just to hold and go on as above.

In the last 3 days I uninstalled and re-installed the cooler a good 4-5 times, and noticed good even spread installing this way and it doesn't seem so hard anymore.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I recently added a reservoir to my h220 to allow the ability to "bleed" the system correctly as I had to mount my rad below the pump. I found that getting the air out of the loop was insanely time consuming.
> 
> During initial start-up of the loop after having installed the reservoir, i found that laying the computer on its side and tilting (with pump running) it from one side to the other side helped the most.
> 
> Thing is, while tilting the computer i noticed that once a bubble was dislodged with the pump running... it would (this might seem obvious) blast the bubble apart creating a "bubble cloud" that would ultimately get sucked back down to the rad by the current.
> 
> After having got most of the "big" air pockets I was simply tiered of tilting my case around (fully loaded rv02 is a bit bulky) and just put the unit into its rightful home and started using it.
> 
> Now that 2 weeks of use has gone by (sleep, on, sleep, on, heavy load, sleep...) the reservoir now has a decent sized bubble that I can feel more comfortable with saying the system is properly bled.


I just took the thing out of the case. Gonna try to shake it loose this way, then top it off and reinstall it. Seems easier than shaking an entire case


----------



## Turt1e

If I plugged 3 pin fans into the PWM splitter, would they run at full speed or run like the fan in channel 1?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> If I plugged 3 pin fans into the PWM splitter, would they run at full speed or run like the fan in channel 1?


Full speed.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Dude, we totally need some pics, please,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am looking to expand the loop but had no intentions of doing once I had a horrible time with noise. Bryan helped me to fix most of the noise issue though, but would like to avoid it too maybe a res is a good idea.
> I installed mine and didn't use the adhesive, it still has the plastic on it. When installing just get one screw lined up and in about 1-2 turns. Line up the opposite corner diagonally and screw those 2 in halfway alternating after 4-5 turns, then the other 2.
> 
> The only thing, as you screw it in, before you get about half way move the back bracket pieces in place so they fit into the motherboard and screw in just to hold and go on as above.
> 
> In the last 3 days I uninstalled and re-installed the cooler a good 4-5 times, and noticed good even spread installing this way and it doesn't seem so hard anymore.


it made all the difference for me:


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> it made all the difference for me:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done with the extra res.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nicely done with the extra res.


ty


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Does anyone run the h220 pump with thick rads? Just curious what kinds of performance they get. I am looking into either the XSPC RX240, RX360, and/or the AX360.


You can wait for the h320 to be released that's what i am doing!


----------



## TheGovernment

For the guys having the air bubbles, just demount the h220 block and shake the crap out of it or better yet, hotwire your PS and shake it while running. If an air bubble is in there, either of those will take care of it if thats the problem to start with. I had the same issue when I drained mine and when I first go it. Both times is was good to go in 5 seconds worth of shaking.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> it made all the difference for me:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very neat looking vertical SLI setup, the hanging res mount on the exhaust fan is cool beans









Did those heatsinks come on the backside of your 660's or did you add them? I'm wondering if thats something i should do to for my 670. What are those things helping to cool exactly?


----------



## Hayness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> C70 is worse with problems of also.
> The UD4H will have the same issues. its the heatsink on top is the problem.
> 
> Lower profile ram if you can get it, would be sure not to have issues.
> Fractal Arc MIdi R2 would be the best choice.


So you're saying a fractal arc midi r2 can fit the Asus Maximum VI Hero, Vengeance Pro ram and H220 top mount with no issues?

The Nanoxia case also has offset top mounts so I would have thought both cases would run into the same issue?

Cheers


----------



## zila

I just installed an H220 in my rig. I opened the fill port and I noticed little white flakes floating around in there. Is this something to be concerned with? Could that be flux floating around in there?


----------



## Shirazir

Hey guys! Not a full blown member of the club yet but I'm definitely considering it. I do have a couple of question first though.

1. Is expanding the loop difficult in the sense that it requires a res to be mounted above the pump which, being integrated into the block is pretty high up in the case already.

2. Would a single GPU, Mosfet coolers and a second (120mm) rad be pushing it too far considering the pump?

Thanks in advance lads!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayness*
> 
> So you're saying a fractal arc midi r2 can fit the Asus Maximum VI Hero, Vengeance Pro ram and H220 top mount with no issues?
> 
> The Nanoxia case also has offset top mounts so I would have thought both cases would run into the same issue?
> 
> Cheers


It will clear the mobo, shouldnt have issue with that ram. It is roughly 55mm of clearance for the ram. Vengeance Pro is 44mm
The H220 is a little tight against the optical bay, the hoses have to face the front.

Nanoxia case not familiar with it, or how the clearance will work.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shirazir*
> 
> Hey guys! Not a full blown member of the club yet but I'm definitely considering it. I do have a couple of question first though.
> 
> 1. Is expanding the loop difficult in the sense that it requires a res to be mounted above the pump which, being integrated into the block is pretty high up in the case already.
> 
> 2. Would a single GPU, Mosfet coolers and a second (120mm) rad be pushing it too far considering the pump?
> 
> Thanks in advance lads!


Res would be better mount with fill port facing up on the H220.
Depend on the CPU/GPU used. If OC is done and case used?
The pump can handle what you have with another rad.


----------



## Thorgasm

how much tubing in feet would i need for this. i have the same motherboard but in my case the radiator will be much closer to the motherboard.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I've had my 220 for almost 2 weeks running on max pump speed. It's been pretty warm here in Vancouver lately so the AC has been running on and off, I also play with a headset on 24/7.

It might be my OCD it might not, but the pump sounds slightly louder than before (It's more than likely just me being dumb). But i'm going to be monitoring it. If it lasts at least a month without any problems i'll feel a lot better.

I think i might know why NCIX changed the H220 from being in stock to pre-order.I'm assuming it has something to do with the faulty units, or it was just that popular and they sold out everywhere in Canada (highly doubt it, but maybe).Someone mentioned a few pages back they couldn't get one cause it said it was pre-order. I bought mine from NCIX and i never said that before.


----------



## Thorgasm

will 2 feet be enough


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I've had my 220 for almost 2 weeks running on max pump speed. It's been pretty warm here in Vancouver lately so the AC has been running on and off, I also play with a headset on 24/7.
> 
> It might be my OCD it might not, but the pump sounds slightly louder than before (It's more than likely just me being dumb). But i'm going to be monitoring it. If it lasts at least a month without any problems i'll feel a lot better.
> 
> I think i might know why NCIX changed the H220 from being in stock to pre-order.I'm assuming it has something to do with the faulty units, or it was just that popular and they sold out everywhere in Canada (highly doubt it, but maybe).Someone mentioned a few pages back they couldn't get one cause it said it was pre-order. I bought mine from NCIX and i never said that before.


They have been sold out everywhere... word is spreading about these units and how powerful they are. Being the child between AIO and a full loop makse the h220 (and soon to be h320) the "go to water cooling" solution for the majority of enthusiasts.

Coming from the competitors AIO solutions, I can honestly say this was (has been) the best computer upgrade I've ever invested in.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> will 2 feet be enough


I was going to say 3 feet to play it safe. I bought 5 feet of tube with my mod just to play it safe and also to have more on hand if I ever decide to add to the loop...


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> 
> 
> how much tubing in feet would i need for this. i have the same motherboard but in my case the radiator will be much closer to the motherboard.


Will 2 feet be enough


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> will 2 feet be enough


Stock length is a little over 15 inches, so 24 should be plenty.


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> They have been sold out everywhere... word is spreading about these units and how powerful they are. Being the child between AIO and a full loop makse the h220 (and soon to be h320) the "go to water cooling" solution for the majority of enthusiasts.
> 
> Coming from the competitors AIO solutions, I can honestly say this was (has been) the best computer upgrade I've ever invested in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to say 3 feet to play it safe. I bought 5 feet of tube with my mod just to play it safe and also to have more on hand if I ever decide to add to the loop...


I had already bought 2 feet and now i wanted a second opinion. lol.lools like we will have to see. does anyone know how long the stock tubing is for either side.


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Stock length is a little over 15 inches, so 24 should be plenty.


ok thank you. The stock tubing does seem too long so i am hoping 12 inches each tube or 8 inch/14 inch will suffice.


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Stock length is a little over 15 inches, so 24 should be plenty.


thank you. the stock tubong does seem too long so i am hoping 2 feet will fit perfectly. Maybe 14 one one tube and 8 on the other or 12/12. i will figure it out


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have issues with the rad/res mounted vertically? I want to put the H320, when released, in front of my case. Also, the motherboard will be inverted so technically if I install the rad/res vertically with the res on top, the water table should be slightly higher than the block.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shirazir*
> 
> Hey guys! Not a full blown member of the club yet but I'm definitely considering it. I do have a couple of question first though.
> 1. Is expanding the loop difficult in the sense that it requires a res to be mounted above the pump which, being integrated into the block is pretty high up in the case already.
> 2. Would a single GPU, Mosfet coolers and a second (120mm) rad be pushing it too far considering the pump?
> Thanks in advance lads!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I added a Swiftech 360 and 140 rad to the H220, along with my GTX 690. See pic below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the 140 was mostly because I wanted to see if I could do it, and I can't say whether it helped cpu temps much since I didn't test it enough. Adding the 360 rad obviously helped though.
> How much additional rads will help depends on a ton of variables. For another 360, in one rig it could help just a couple c, and in another rig it could be 5 or 6c. What fans were used, what speed, how much restriction did you add, how exactly did you change the air flow of the whole rig, etc.?
> Regarding problems with units, right now I have one unexpanded H220 in a rig, and the expanded one in another. I have been using them since they became available from Swiftech, and no major issues so far.


Had asked similar question before, seems Justanoldman added a 360,240 and 140 w/o res to the original pump.


----------



## gdubc

He didnt need a res with the 360 uptop having one built in.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone have issues with the rad/res mounted vertically? I want to put the H320, when released, in front of my case. Also, the motherboard will be inverted so technically if I install the rad/res vertically with the res on top, the water table should be slightly higher than the block.


That configuration shouldn't be an issue. With the reservoir situated higher than the pump it will be able to act as an air-trap as it was designed to.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone have issues with the rad/res mounted vertically? I want to put the H320, when released, in front of my case. Also, the motherboard will be inverted so technically if I install the rad/res vertically with the res on top, the water table should be slightly higher than the block.


I mounted the H220 vertically, in the front of my arc midi r2 when I had it.

Temps were actually lower this way, than using it on the top. Both times I used it as intake with the same fans.


----------



## michael-ocn

Anyone know if the h220 fits well in the Coolermaster N600 case?

That case has two places to mount a 240 rad, up top and in the right hand side, although looks like it only allows a single fan to be mounted on the RHS position (?). I'm more interested in the top mounting position and wondering if it offers better clearance than the R4 or ArcMidi.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Anyone know if the h220 fits well in the Coolermaster N600 case?
> 
> That case has two places to mount a 240 rad, up top and in the right hand side, although looks like it only allows a single fan to be mounted on the RHS position (?). I'm more interested in the top mounting position and wondering if it offers better clearance than the R4 or ArcMidi.


That case was designed around there own seidon 240.

Arc Midi R2 offers way better clearance. I can do push/pull on mine.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That case was designed around there own seidon 240.
> 
> Arc Midi R2 offers way better clearance. I can do push/pull on mine.


The only midsize cases that aren't not compromised in some way seems to be the caselabs cases, but thats only because their "midsize" case is huge in size and midsize only in that it can't fit an EATX board









With the arc midi, no side door fan. It can potentially use the r4 side door with a fan mount, but that fan mount is pushed too far back (and i'd have to get one somehow), or cut a hole in the window. With the r4, difficult top mounting clearance and same issue with the side fan mount being not in the best place.

Curious compromises.

I'm looking for a midsize case that will work well for air cooled dual gpus and an h220 cooling the cpu and not look like it was manufactured on planetX. The N600 looks interesting for that provided the h220 fits up top w/o running into mobo heat sinks and mem sticks. No doubt the asetek based siedon will fit well.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The only midsize cases that aren't not compromised in some way seems to be the caselabs cases, but thats only because their "midsize" case is huge in size and midsize only in that it can't fit an EATX board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the arc midi, no side door fan. It can potentially use the r4 side door with a fan mount, but that fan mount is pushed too far back (and i'd have to get one somehow), or cut a hole in the window. With the r4, difficult top mounting clearance and same issue with the side fan mount being not in the best place.
> 
> Curious compromises.
> 
> I'm looking for a midsize case that will work well for air cooled dual gpus and an h220 cooling the cpu and not look like it was manufactured on planetX. The N600 looks interesting for that provided the h220 fits up top w/o running into mobo heat sinks and mem sticks. No doubt the asetek based siedon will fit well.


Side fan is never need and dont help much. As long you have good airflow from the front, you'll be fine.
You can add a bottom 140mm fan in the R2, and with room for 2x 140mm in front and remove the top HDD cage you will have clear room.

Also you can look at the Corsair 540 case, that also has room for the H220, with lots of airflow.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Side fan is never need and dont help much. As long you have good airflow from the front, you'll be fine.
> You can add a bottom 140mm fan in the R2, and with room for 2x 140mm in front and remove the top HDD cage you will have clear room.
> 
> Also you can look at the Corsair 540 case, that also has room for the H220, with lots of airflow.


Thnx for the ptr to the 540 cube case, that looks like it could be pretty easy to work with!

About side fans, I've seen lots of posts about how the top card gets too hot (nvidia throttling at 70c kicks in) and the addition of a side fan helps by like 5 or 10c, fresh air being blown directly into the gap between the cards seems like it helps more than it not based on what i've read at least.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Thnx for the ptr to the 540 cube case, that looks like it could be pretty easy to work with!
> 
> About side fans, I've seen lots of posts about how the top card gets too hot (nvidia throttling at 70c kicks in) and the addition of a side fan helps by like 5 or 10c, fresh air being blown directly into the gap between the cards seems like it helps more than it not based on what i've read at least.


I had dual cards, tried side fans and did not see a difference to really have one. The placement where it is, is too far back toward the PCI slots, all you're doing blowing it out.
Front mount from behind the GPU did a much better job. So direct from front (nothing blocking it) or mounting from the HDD cage. The switch 810 is the best example on how HDD cage fans should be.


----------



## Snyderman34

I almost had this thing mounted in the top of my 600T. Almost. Had to offset it, and only 3 screws would go into it. Thinking I'm gonna cut out a slot for the res tomorrow so it can sit up right. Should make bleeding and filling a bit easier


----------



## Veenershlidn

Gday, so i have a h220, Can i add a 2nd ( very thick) 240 mm rad and 2 gtx 780 waterblocks ? Will it work, is it ok to try it out and maybe swap to a reservoir pump set up if its no good ? i have a c70 vengeance case. Could i add another 120 mm rad at the rear ? Has any one expanded the loop to a similar setup. can u give me an idea of temps etc
Also wondering if i do this, can i run all fans of the included fan adapter hub they give with the h220?

Sorry I'm new to the whole forum thing.


----------



## holiday121

Can you replace the tubing to clear and run colored liquids ?

Also can you add a bay reservoir or tube reservoir to this as well?

I just ordered a i7 haswell with a gigabyte motherboard. Plan on cooling the CPU and maybe 1 gpu in the future but never watercooler before.

I have a nzxt 810 case. Not sure in what all to order


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> Can you replace the tubing to clear and run colored liquids ?
> 
> Also can you add a bay reservoir or tube reservoir to this as well?
> 
> I just ordered a i7 haswell with a gigabyte motherboard. Plan on cooling the CPU and maybe 1 gpu in the future but never watercooler before.
> 
> I have a nzxt 810 case. Not sure in what all to order


Yes to all, its not any different than doing a custom loop. You are just starting with different stuff.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> Can you replace the tubing to clear and run colored liquids ?
> 
> Also can you add a bay reservoir or tube reservoir to this as well?
> 
> I just ordered a i7 haswell with a gigabyte motherboard. Plan on cooling the CPU and maybe 1 gpu in the future but never watercooler before.
> 
> I have a nzxt 810 case. Not sure in what all to order


Using dyed coolant is always risky due to the fact that they can break down and clog your pump or water blocks. Adding a bay reservoir or tube reservoir can be done though. It will mainly depend on the case and how you configure your loop. You'll basically need the reservoir that you plan to add and fittings to attach your tubing. I sent you a PM as well that should explain all of this. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> Can you replace the tubing to clear and run colored liquids ?
> 
> Also can you add a bay reservoir or tube reservoir to this as well?
> 
> I just ordered a i7 haswell with a gigabyte motherboard. Plan on cooling the CPU and maybe 1 gpu in the future but never watercooler before.
> 
> I have a nzxt 810 case. Not sure in what all to order


If your going to do all that you may as well get a proper custom loop


----------



## bond32

I did it! I ordered the MCRx20-XP 320mm. So excited!


----------



## holiday121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> If your going to do all that you may as well get a proper custom loop


What would you suggest I order then


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> What would you suggest I order then


If you want it simple either 1 of the xspc 360 kits or equivalent EK kits, xspc use bay res, EK use tube res


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I did it! I ordered the MCRx20-XP 320mm. So excited!


Let me know how you like it and please post some pics of your build once you get it installed. Congrats!


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> If you want it simple either 1 of the xspc 360 kits or equivalent EK kits, xspc use bay res, EK use tube res


The ES waterblocks are suspect in quality, they have had corrosion problems in the not too distant past.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The ES waterblocks are suspect in quality, they have had corrosion problems in the not too distant past.


It's EK and that was ages ago and their nickel plating which don't come with the kits as far as I know. Maybe you should go dig up something new to troll on


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me know how you like it and please post some pics of your build once you get it installed. Congrats!


Been reading a lot of reviews. Was very surprised to see that the swiftech 360 extreme still performed very close to the thick rads. For a while it will just be sitting on my desk (my case is the HAF XB). I will be getting the corsair 540 soon though, it will fit nicely in there with the stock h220 rad and possibly my other single 120mm extreme rad.


----------



## Avonosac

Please don't quote that idiot his technical ignorance is only marginally bested by his political and social ignorance.


----------



## Snyderman34

Got tired of having my res upside down, so I make a quick cut (case is a 600T)




Should be easier to bleed and refill now


----------



## Phelan

Nice!


----------



## Avonosac

Hehe, I caved and bought an Arc Midi R2 Mid tower for my AMD rig, looks like I'll be throwing my 580 gtx HydroGen in there with my H220 tonight xD


----------



## TheSkeleton

Man, I really want an H220. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it in stock right now. Anyone know when it will become available again?


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I just installed an H220 in my rig. I opened the fill port and I noticed little white flakes floating around in there. Is this something to be concerned with? Could that be flux floating around in there?


Nope, just something that comes off the tubing. It looks white until you drain your H220 and filter it with a coffee filter, you'll see the particles are actually black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> 
> 
> how much tubing in feet would i need for this. i have the same motherboard but in my case the radiator will be much closer to the motherboard.


Do a soft measurement with measuring tape and account for bends and add 25% to what you come up with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Got tired of having my res upside down, so I make a quick cut (case is a 600T)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be easier to bleed and refill now


Dude! I just did the same thing to my CM 690, will post pics soon. I wanted the rad res to be higher to catch more air. Also have an EK single bay res coming, Swiftech Komodo 780 block, Black Ice 240 rad and 2 more helix fans. Most parts will be here tomorrow so stay tuned with pics and performance info...!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSkeleton*
> 
> Man, I really want an H220. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it in stock right now. Anyone know when it will become available again?


Just keep looking.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Nope, just something that comes off the tubing. It looks white until you drain your H220 and filter it with a coffee filter, you'll see the particles are actually black.
> Do a soft measurement with measuring tape and account for bends and add 25% to what you come up with.
> Dude! I just did the same thing to my CM 690, will post pics soon. I wanted the rad res to be higher to catch more air. Also have an EK single bay res coming, Swiftech Komodo 780 block, Black Ice 240 rad and 2 more helix fans. Most parts will be here tomorrow so stay tuned with pics and performance info...!
> Just keep looking.


I'm gonna give it a good try to bleed some air out of it tomorrow. The top is pretty much the only place this thing is gonna go with this rad, so it had to be flipped. Didn't take very long, just a pain to get all the metal flakes out of the case


----------



## Magnum26

Add me just ordered mine will come in a few days!


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSkeleton*
> 
> Man, I really want an H220. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it in stock right now. Anyone know when it will become available again?


We have one, and we sent you of us a PM regarding the subject of youcells getting one for your computer.


----------



## dansi

these just arrived and they are a perfect fit for the h220.
very easy to put on and remove thanks to the magnetic edges on the metalic rad!








as you can see it uses very fine mesh. my temps dont seem to be affected.
they can be found as cheap as $5.

perhaps swiftech may consider to put out their own branded rad washable filter?


----------



## gdubc

Hey dansi, where did you find those?


----------



## dansi

got a pair from amazon at 5 bucks each.
prices seem to have gone up to....7 bucks each.


----------



## Magnum26

Funny I just picked up two of the 140mm versions of those filters to sit on my R4 so wouldn't have any gaps for dust to sneak in


----------



## os2wiz

It is already in the second half of July. Is there any indication when the H320 will be coming to market? 1 week, 2 weeks, a month, or is it more ????


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these just arrived and they are a perfect fit for the h220.
> very easy to put on and remove thanks to the magnetic edges on the metalic rad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see it uses very fine mesh. my temps dont seem to be affected.
> they can be found as cheap as $5.
> 
> perhaps swiftech may consider to put out their own branded rad washable filter?


I have 3 of those in 140mm for my top radiator of my WC Loop and they're the best filters I've seen as of today, they're great.


----------



## mcnumpty23

silverstone fan filters also come in white now

http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=silverstone+filter


----------



## We of Us

There are retangular magnetic Swiftech radiator filters too: http://www.demcifilter.com/c105/SWIFTECH.aspx


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these just arrived and they are a perfect fit for the h220.
> very easy to put on and remove thanks to the magnetic edges on the metalic rad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see it uses very fine mesh. my temps dont seem to be affected.
> they can be found as cheap as $5.
> 
> perhaps swiftech may consider to put out their own branded rad washable filter?


I have like 9 of those in my Case.


----------



## marc0053

For those interested, you can pre-order the H320 on NCIX:
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=86340&vpn=H320&manufacture=Swiftech


----------



## mcnumpty23

for those in the uk

the h220 is showing in stock here

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-17411.html


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> For those interested, you can pre-order the H320 on NCIX:
> http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=86340&vpn=H320&manufacture=Swiftech


This is great! Can someone tell us the updates on the new H320 vs. the H220? For instance, I heard something about putting a power sata connector instead of molex.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

H220 and H320 is the same in terms of build. Only is the extra 120mm space. As for the PWM splitter to have molex or sata do not know.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## bond32

My 360 extreme performance comes in tomorrow. I'm excited to see the temperatures after its installed. I have 3 radiators now in the loop, the stock h220, single 120mm extreme, and now 360 extreme.


----------



## tmsmith

Bryan,
Thank you so much for the help in solving my issue. I am in need of your assistance once again. I have emailed you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Bryan,
> Thank you so much for the help in solving my issue. I am in need of your assistance once again. I have emailed you.


I'm sorry that I couldn't be of further assistance. Let me know if you have any further issues or concerns with your kit though.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My 360 extreme performance comes in tomorrow. I'm excited to see the temperatures after its installed. I have 3 radiators now in the loop, the stock h220, single 120mm extreme, and now 360 extreme.


Cmon man we need pics !


----------



## Jacoblab

Is it hard to change the tubing for this? I was thinking of getting this tubing: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=78757&vpn=PFLEXA10-58-R&manufacture=Primochill&promoid=1198


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Is it hard to change the tubing for this? I was thinking of getting this tubing: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=78757&vpn=PFLEXA10-58-R&manufacture=Primochill&promoid=1198


Unscrew the clamps remove the tubing, its not rocket science.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220 and H320 is the same in terms of build. Only is the extra 120mm space. As for the PWM splitter to have molex or sata do not know.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


I actually remember reading something about an updated mounting system as well.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Is it hard to change the tubing for this? I was thinking of getting this tubing: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=78757&vpn=PFLEXA10-58-R&manufacture=Primochill&promoid=1198


I had the same tubing but in green. Fit great and looks even better! it's super easy to change.


----------



## Jacoblab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I had the same tubing but in green. Fit great and looks even better! it's super easy to change.


Sounds great thanks man!


----------



## yarly

did you guys rma your h220 with the pump noise? cause mine is doing it now to







i can still hear it a little at 2500 rpm but at full speed its getting kinda loud now, i have it running full speed from the time i got it which was about 2 weeks ago without no problem or noise, just notice the noise like 20 min ago


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> for those in the uk
> 
> the h220 is showing in stock here
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H220-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-17411.html


If you get it from amazon its only £109









http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00BMMMRKG/ref=ox_ya_os_product


----------



## Zeara

I got mine H220 this week









Installing it was a bit tricky in mine 500R. I wanted it to be an exhaust, so I had to put the fans in pull. Only to find out the screws were to short to attach the radiator to the fans again with the case in the middle. On the top.
So in the end I just have it on top of the case, unattached. But it is pretty solid so it isnt vibrating or anything. Not to happy with it, but this way it is atleast easier to bleed air out if I need to.

It is my first watercooling setup. I plan to add my GPU and an extra rad later on, or just do that with a complete new build













I will most likely change the fans to push again when I got some time









Im pretty happy with it so far. Temps dropped by about 10-15 degrees from my old cooler, and it seems more silent.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> If you get it from amazon its only £109
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00BMMMRKG/ref=ox_ya_os_product


have they got this as well?

first place i have seen an h320

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-18387.html


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> have they got this as well?
> 
> first place i have seen an h320
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-18387.html


Doesn't appear to have the 320 only the 220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> did you guys rma your h220 with the pump noise? cause mine is doing it now to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can still hear it a little at 2500 rpm but at full speed its getting kinda loud now, i have it running full speed from the time i got it which was about 2 weeks ago without no problem or noise, just notice the noise like 20 min ago


Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that helps to quiet down your pump. It's most likely just an air bubble. The thing is too that these pumps can actually be a little noisy at full speed. Keep me posted though and PM me if you need any further assistance.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Doesn't appear to have the 320 only the 220.


the h320 is on amazon as well but £10 more than in their shop

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-Cooling/dp/B00E0N0CTM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374241562&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=swiftech+h320


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that helps to quiet down your pump. It's most likely just an air bubble. The thing is too that these pumps can actually be a little noisy at full speed. Keep me posted though and PM me if you need any further assistance.


bryan, doesn't amazon U.S. carry swiftech's products?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> bryan, doesn't amazon U.S. carry swiftech's products?


That depends on the reseller. We don't have a contract with Amazon to sell our products, but many of our resellers do. Putting our products on Amazon will therefore be up to the individual reseller.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That depends on the reseller. We don't have a contract with Amazon to sell our products, but many of our resellers do. Putting our products on Amazon will therefore be up to the individual reseller.


i mean amazon , won't it gonna boost sales if swiftech have partnered with amazon?


----------



## [email protected]

Press Release, for Immediate Release

Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.

On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.

On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.

On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.

Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.

Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.

Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "_I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future_".


----------



## moksh4u2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Press Release, for Immediate Release
> 
> Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.
> 
> On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.
> 
> On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.
> 
> On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.
> 
> Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.
> 
> Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.
> 
> Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "_I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future_".


This is very sad to hear. Im sure you can contest this on basis of "PRIOR ART" since the apogee drive was basically the same thing without the kit (radiator fans tubing etc.)


----------



## bond32

Oh man... Don't know what to make of that... Does this mean I have a collector's item? lol. But seriously, got the 360 rad in and installed, Pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I know it doesn't look pretty, but it's only temporary. Load temps have dropped about 10 degrees. FX6300 @ 5ghz, 1.524 vcore, during IBT max core temp average is about 52 degrees C, socket is 55.

What is a good way to touch up my other two rads? I know theres the sharpy trick but is there some good paint just to touch up scratches?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Press Release, for Immediate Release
> 
> Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.
> 
> On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.
> 
> On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.
> 
> On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.
> 
> Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.
> 
> Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.
> 
> Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "_I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future_".


I guess that explains the shortage.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Press Release, for Immediate Release
> 
> Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.
> 
> On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.
> 
> On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.
> 
> On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.
> 
> Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.
> 
> Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.
> 
> Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "_I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future_".


I dont see how is this the same to Aseteks. Apogee Drive been around for a long time. it is the same with the H2O-X20 (that kit is you build yourself), thats the difference with H220 (pre-built). Why not go after Coolermaster with there Eisberg, which is the same as H220.
This is load of crap from Asetek to protect there investment.


----------



## Avonosac

I got a fresh boxed contraband I'm considering throwing up on the marketplace now ^_^

This is bad, what about their patents do they actually claim you was infringed.. the AD2 already did this, you just shipped it with a radiator included..

I hate patent trolling, and I'm assuming it was too expensive to litigate, and Asetek is not interested in a settlement.


----------



## pcfoo

Woot...that's sad...H220 was unique in the "CLC" scene.
And they've been outing larger rads etc too with the H220...









Wonder if the patent in question is about the pump being housed over the waterblock or not...otherwise maybe they can keep selling the H220 parts, just not as a pre-filled system. Seems to be enough momentum around it (I know I got one







)


----------



## Avonosac

It is purely a litigatory push out of the market, its not like Asetek really innovated at all with what they have in their patents.. you just have some asshat at the patent office granting their application, likely because he doesn't care at all.

Their patents are so vague, its absolutely ridiculous that they were ever granted. If you get your pump close to the water block on the CPU, you're infringing if it comes in a closed, filled loop state.

Absolutely, the definition of patent trolling and abuse.


----------



## Stablerage

Hi Everyone,
I am a newbie to this forum and just posting to show my face so to speak. I ordered the H220 today so will post picture when it arrives.
Hope to chat soon.


----------



## ghostrider85

if they sell this h220 disassembled, will that avoid asetek's patents? i would love to get one of those pump/block combo. is the h320 affected too?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Press Release, for Immediate Release
> 
> Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.
> 
> On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.
> 
> On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.
> 
> On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.
> 
> Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.
> 
> Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.
> 
> Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "_I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future_".


any plan of selling the pump/block combo as standalone? like the apogee drive ii.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> if they sell this h220 disassembled, will that avoid asetek's patents? i would love to get one of those pump/block combo. is the h320 affected too?


That is the problem, they have the H2O-X20. Which is the same as H220, just not assembled and cost 2x more.
The H320 should not be affect, as its the only one in the market.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is the problem, they have the H2O-X20. Which is the same as H220, just not assembled and cost 2x more.
> The H320 should not be affect, as its the only one in the market.


the h320 is basically the same thing, just have a bigger rad.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

[quote name="ghostrider85" url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/4950#post_20440311"
the h320 is basically the same thing, just have a bigger rad.[/quote]
Yes I know that. There is no 360 rad from Asetek.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> [quote name="ghostrider85" url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/4950#post_20440311"
> the h320 is basically the same thing, just have a bigger rad.


Yes I know that. There is no 360 rad from Asetek.[/quote]

so, the patent only covers 240 rad? i doubt it. they make patents as broad as possible.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> so, the patent only covers 240 rad? i doubt it. they make patents as broad as possible.


H320 is also affected in the US.
Which sucks, maybe have to buy outside of US, like in Canada.


----------



## Phelan

This has got to be the stupidest patent trolling I've seen since Apple went after Samsung's Galaxy S3 (S1 and 2 for that matter, though those actually looked a lot more like an iPhone). Asetek can suck it. They are really reaching with this. Like others said, the Apogee Drive I long predates these patents and does the same dang thing. They are just whining because their butts hurt from being kicked so bad with such an awesome product and service as Swiftech. You heard it from me first - Swiftech will WIN this dispute and if they wanted, could possibly turn the same lawsuit on Asetek, since I'm in belief that the Apogee Drive had patents of its own...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This has got to be the stupidest patent trolling I've seen since Apple went after Samsung's Galaxy S3 (S1 and 2 for that matter, though those actually looked a lot more like an iPhone). Asetek can suck it. They are really reaching with this. Like others said, the Apogee Drive I long predates these patents and does the same dang thing. They are just whining because their butts hurt from being kicked so bad with such an awesome product and service as Swiftech. You heard it from me first - Swiftech will WIN this dispute and if they wanted, could possibly turn the same lawsuit on Asetek, since I'm in belief that the Apogee Drive had patents of its own...


Its about money, always will be.


----------



## TheGovernment

Well, suck for the guys in the US. I'm assuming its still fine for us Canucks?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Its about money, always will be.


Oh I absolutely know that. Asetek knew their marketshare was in danger big time, so they're lashing out trying to do all they can to keep it. How is the H220 though infringing on these "patents" and the Cool-it units not? Like you said, it's only about money. Cool-It isn't a game changer the way Swiftech is, and Asetek doesn't want the game to change.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Well, that kind of throws a wrench in my plan. chinese watercooling it is then


----------



## MerkageTurk

Love Great Britain!!!!!

on the other hand i feel sad for Americans, ow well i guess you guys buy cheaper products anyways than us Brits so therefore you may need to import and this will bring the costs a bit more fair.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Well, suck for the guys in the US. I'm assuming its still fine for us Canucks?


You can still buy in Canada. Come on over.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This has got to be the stupidest patent trolling I've seen since Apple went after Samsung's Galaxy S3 (S1 and 2 for that matter, though those actually looked a lot more like an iPhone). Asetek can suck it. They are really reaching with this. Like others said, the Apogee Drive I long predates these patents and does the same dang thing. They are just whining because their butts hurt from being kicked so bad with such an awesome product and service as Swiftech. You heard it from me first - Swiftech will WIN this dispute and if they wanted, could possibly turn the same lawsuit on Asetek, since I'm in belief that the Apogee Drive had patents of its own...


Eh.. go through the patents.. AD / AD2 are kinda different because the pump is a separate part which is incorporated, the patents show the pump and the block being integral parts of each other, which the H220 is as well, the problem is besides very minute generalities in common, like the pump and block assembly being coupled and water flowing over fins to increase surface area, the physics of the scenario determine design.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Oh I absolutely know that. Asetek knew their marketshare was in danger big time, so they're lashing out trying to do all they can to keep it. How is the H220 though infringing on these "patents" and the Cool-it units not? Like you said, it's only about money. Cool-It isn't a game changer the way Swiftech is, and Asetek doesn't want the game to change.


Asetek would have no problem if they were the ones making the units for Swiftech.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Asetek would have no problem if they were the ones making the units for Swiftech.


And they would be just another terrible, unexpandable, re-brand of Asetek coolers.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Asetek sued Coolit also for patent infringement too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Phaedrus*
> 
> Asetek claims their patent applies to any device with a "reservoir" in the pump module, and their definition of reservoir includes even necessary internal channels in the pump. Thus, under Asetek's legal theory, virtually every water pump on the market intended for PC cooling violates their patent.
> 
> They know they have no case, they just want to restrict competitors' sales (like they did to Swiftek) as long as possible to maintain their shrinking marketshare and relevance.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Swiftech is playing it smart. They are going to let Coolermaster fight it out in court with Asetek.
> 
> I guess I will boycott Asetek products/rebrands now as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Phaedrus*
> 
> Asetek claims their patent applies to any device with a "reservoir" in the pump module, and their definition of reservoir includes even necessary internal channels in the pump. Thus, under Asetek's legal theory, virtually every water pump on the market intended for PC cooling violates their patent.
> 
> They know they have no case, they just want to restrict competitors' sales (like they did to Swiftek) as long as possible to maintain their shrinking marketshare and relevance.


Both these comments make good sense. (Pulled from the news thread)

TBH as Gabe mentioned on FB, this can be a blessing in disguise. My theory is this will give their new facilities a little breathing room keep up with demand (since US demand is extremely high), give them time to learn how to expedite production (any time you move to a new facility, things take a little more time to become fluid), and, once the dust is settled and Asetek's patents stripped, Swiftech will be in full force, much stronger than ever before, to sweep in and meet demand and continue steadfast.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Well. Hope for a Swift win for Swiftech and I for one will not buy ever any coolers from Asetek and will make sure that no friend of mine (which usually consult us, the more tech nerd guys, on their purchases) ever buy Asetek coolers again.

Gabriel


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Both these comments make good sense. (Pulled from the news thread)
> 
> TBH as Gabe mentioned on FB, this can be a blessing in disguise. My theory is this will give their new facilities a little breathing room keep up with demand (since US demand is extremely high), give them time to learn how to expedite production (any time you move to a new facility, things take a little more time to become fluid), and, once the dust is settled and Asetek's patents stripped, Swiftech will be in full force, much stronger than ever before, to sweep in and meet demand and continue steadfast.


I can't make any further comments ATM other than saying that every word in my press release has been carefully chosen to reflect 1/ facts, 2/ how we feel about the alleged infringement, 3/ why we decided to do what we did, 4/ how we feel about the situation in regards to our US customers, 5/ what we plan on doing, and 6/ when we will execute.

So read my statement carefully please 

One more comment: THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR UNWAVERING SUPPORT!


----------



## drnilly007

Hey not a problem its what we can give back to you for your A+ customer support. Good luck in court/litigation!

BTW update on H220 expansion all parts are here except I need the res I ordered from ebay to come in and I need some free time... working 7 days a week is tough.

Swiftech Komodo block is heavy!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future".


Very much looking forward to that.

Shame on asetek.


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Well, that kind of throws a wrench in my plan.


Same here. I had to return my H220 cause of a bad water pump. Got a refund and decided just to wait for Newegg, FrozenCPU, or Performance PCs to get more in-stock. Now that throws my plan out the window, at least, for its US price. Gah.


----------



## spikezone2004

I am extremely disappointed to hear about this news as I was just bout to purchase one but now I dont know what to get cause I definitely dont want to buy an Asetek product after hearing this


----------



## michael-ocn

Patent litigation is beyond f'ed up. I wish common sense judges would aggressively throw these cases straight out of court. The patent office just hands these things out like candy to corp lawyers.
Quote:


> The cooling system of claim 1, wherein a speed of the fan is configured to be varied independent of a speed of the impeller of the pump.


So if your cooling system can independently control the pump and fan speeds, well it might infringe an asetek claim.
Quote:


> The cooling system of claim 1, wherein a surface of the heat exchanging interface exposed to the lower chamber includes features to enhance heat dissipation.


You gotta be kidding me. They claimed any and all 'features to enhance heat dissipation'. Not a particular channel design or feature, just any feature that does the rather obvious thing of increasing the surface area between the block and the coolant. Idk, is being made of cooper a feature that enhances head dissipation?

Patent should never have been issued. Case closed


----------



## El Media Vida

The H220 pump have the necessary pressure to work with a GPU block and 200mm rad (phobya)?
I want use it in a silverstone TJ08, and i sell the 240mm original rad to someone of my friends.
The loop may be this: H220 pump+200mm rad+reservoir+GPU block


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> The H220 pump have the necessary pressure to work with a GPU block and 200mm rad (phobya)?
> I want use it in a silverstone TJ08, and i sell the 240mm original rad to someone of my friends.
> The loop may be this: H220 pump+200mm rad+reservoir+GPU block


Yes, the H220 pump can handle that.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> The H220 pump have the necessary pressure to work with a GPU block and 200mm rad (phobya)?
> I want use it in a silverstone TJ08, and i sell the 240mm original rad to someone of my friends.
> The loop may be this: H220 pump+200mm rad+reservoir+GPU block


gory details about pump capacity here...

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/4/


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I am extremely disappointed to hear about this news as I was just bout to purchase one but now I dont know what to get cause I definitely dont want to buy an Asetek product after hearing this


Could always look into an XSPC kit, they are more money though.


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that helps to quiet down your pump. It's most likely just an air bubble. The thing is too that these pumps can actually be a little noisy at full speed. Keep me posted though and PM me if you need any further assistance.


i'd try everything on the instructions listed except for refilling it and the pump still making noise so i will try the refill when i have time and see if that helps


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> i'd try everything on the instructions listed except for refilling it and the pump still making noise so i will try the refill when i have time and see if that helps


OK, keep me posted. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of one way or another.


----------



## zila

I got my H220 just after the July 4th holiday and haven't even used it yet.. It's the nicest cooler I own. I guess those of us that have them are now in a special club.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I can't make any further comments ATM other than saying that every word in my press release has been carefully chosen to reflect 1/ facts, 2/ how we feel about the alleged infringement, 3/ why we decided to do what we did, 4/ how we feel about the situation in regards to our US customers, 5/ what we plan on doing, and 6/ when we will execute.
> 
> So read my statement carefully please
> 
> One more comment: THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR UNWAVERING SUPPORT!


My educated guess from the last paragraph of your carefully worded press release is that you are already executing a redesign to do an end run around any possible infringement claim and that it will show up very soon on the market. I really hope that is the implication of your statement and that the redesign will not have major new concerns for quality control holding up its execution.


----------



## APhamX

Looks like they pulled the h220 out of the market in the US only due to a lawsuit. I guess I'll never be a member of this club, sniff.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Looks like they pulled the h220 out of the market in the US only due to a lawsuit. I guess I'll never be a member of this club, sniff.


Is this true?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Is this true?


nah, it's not.


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Is this true?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> nah, it's not.


http://www.techpowerup.com/187493/swiftech-withdraws-h220-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-from-us-market.html


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehpik*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/187493/swiftech-withdraws-h220-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-from-us-market.html


lol, check my earlier posts,


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehpik*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/187493/swiftech-withdraws-h220-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-from-us-market.html


Yeah sorry, went back immediately after posting and read all about it. Was being sleepy :0


----------



## dansi

gabe and bram seems pretty cool dudes.

i give my support to swiftech. impressed with the h220 being a class above any asetek loops but you guys sells the h220 for reasonable prices and good support!

i will do my part to spread the asetek hate messages.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H320 is also affected in the US.
> Which sucks, maybe have to buy outside of US, like in Canada.


I doubt if a Canadian company can under international Patent laws ship the product into the US. That means Canadian on-line sales will not be an option for US customers. This is really pissing me off. I had waited months for the H320. Is the Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige the next one to fall to Asetek????


----------



## Forumh3ro

Would Swiftech h220 fit on Bitfenix Prodigy case without any modding?

Thanks!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forumh3ro*
> 
> Would Swiftech h220 fit on Bitfenix Prodigy case without any modding?
> 
> Thanks!


Easily, in the top you would need to put the fillport down thought. In the front, you need to remove the OOD and HDD bays so the unit will fit.

Back on the lawsuit topic, Asetek will lose this, and badly. I think Coolermasters is actually going to litigate, but for any US buyers... buy from NICX.CA and ship to US.. only adds like $10 cost for additional shipping.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forumh3ro*
> 
> Would Swiftech h220 fit on Bitfenix Prodigy case without any modding?
> Thanks!


Fill port do not need to face down. It will fit in the case.
Here is the post to what you want to know with images.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/4600_50#post_20350788


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Easily, in the top you would need to put the fillport down thought. In the front, you need to remove the OOD and HDD bays so the unit will fit.
> 
> Back on the lawsuit topic, Asetek will lose this, and badly. I think Coolermasters is actually going to litigate, but for any US buyers... buy from NICX.CA and ship to US.. only adds like $10 cost for additional shipping.


About the lawsuit anyone have from the top of his/her head dates and figures about this claim? I mean, Asetek claim any combo pump/block will be breaking their patent. The patent was filled when? When the apooge I appeared? People are also mentioning an intel cooler as something which pre-dates Asetek patent. Which cooler and when? Just trying to get the facts and dates correctly here.

BTW Asetek will also had to fight Coolit since Corsair recent AIO are made by Coolit....


----------



## Avonosac

Gabe posted his press release which has the patents and the communication for the allegations. Its on page 494/495.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Gabe posted his press release which has the patents and the communication for the allegations. Its on page 494/495.


Yes, I saw that. The patent is from August 2012. But what about the other questions I asked? Intel cooler? apogee I and II does not have the same design (pum+block combo) and were made prior to that patent?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes, I saw that. The patent is from August 2012. But what about the other questions I asked? Intel cooler? apogee I and II does not have the same design (pum+block combo) and were made prior to that patent?


I believe the intel CLC are also Asetek made. the only ones that are mainly under discussion are Swiftech, Coolit(which sparked farther back I believe) and Coolermaster


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, keep me posted. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of one way or another.


ok so i havent try to refilling it but im thinking its not air bubbles cause now the pump is even louder then the other day should i still try and do a refill?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes, I saw that. The patent is from August 2012. But what about the other questions I asked? Intel cooler? apogee I and II does not have the same design (pum+block combo) and were made prior to that patent?


That is kind of the point, we are all not concerned because Swiftech had products better than Asetek, and well before them.


----------



## marc0053

I currently use the h220 to cool an i7 3930k @4.8GHz and max temps get up to 90C. I'm going to add two heavily overclocked GTX Titans with EK full waterblocks to the loop and was advise to purchase an additional 480mm rad. Did anyone add a 360mm or bigger rad to their H220 loop and does it perform well? I'm hoping my cpu temps will lower as well. I will also be purchasing a corsair 900d if i get the 480mm rad. I will be using noctua nf f12 to cool the rads.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Skullwipe

Well, I just had my first issue with my unit. Pump jumped to 100% with no warning, then began to fluctuate between 100% and 0 RPM (not 0% PWM.) I got it to stabilize by lowering the PWM curve in Speedfan to 0% then brining it back up to 40%. Going to wait and see if it happens again, hopefully it was a Speedfan issue and not the pump.

As it stands my pump is staying at 2400 RPM, and Speedfan isn't adjusting, reinstall time.


----------



## Turt1e

My pump is making an annoying clicking noise, I've tried shaking the unit but that hasn't done anything. Any ideas?


----------



## Skullwipe

Update: Makes a very loud noise until Speedfan loads, but no clicking or grinding noises. Not sure what's going on, hopefully it's stable in its current condition.


----------



## Turt1e

can i join?
sorry used my phone to take this


----------



## kikibgd

ok one question i am about to order h220 and main reseller for Portugal (globaldata) is giving 2years warranty, should it be 3 yeras?


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, keep me posted. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of one way or another.


ok so refilled it 2 times and pump still making noise just that this time its loud like all the other videos on youtube but when i was refilling it with no water in it the pump stop making the noise then i add water and let it run for like maybe 5 min or so still no noise so i turn it off and turn back on and the noise is back so i dont know whats wrong with it, its still cooling my cpu the same as before just that the pump is making that loud noise, also its the same noise as in the video that drnilly007 have posted
forgot to note that the water that i drain out first time was kinda dark black and the 2nd time i drain it with the clear water i refilled it with came out the same color


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Update: Makes a very loud noise until Speedfan loads, but no clicking or grinding noises. Not sure what's going on, hopefully it's stable in its current condition.


What type of fan profile do you have set in the bios? Try changing that around.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, keep me posted. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of one way or another.
> 
> 
> 
> ok so refilled it 2 times and pump still making noise just that this time its loud like all the other videos on youtube but when i was *refilling it with no water in it the pump* stop making the noise then i add water and let it run for like maybe 5 min or so still no noise so i turn it off and turn back on and the noise is back so i dont know whats wrong with it, its still cooling my cpu the same as before just that the pump is making that loud noise, also its the same noise as in the video that drnilly007 have posted
> forgot to note that the water that i drain out first time was kinda dark black and the 2nd time i drain it with the clear water i refilled it with came out the same color
Click to expand...

When you drain it you need to use a filter to catch the stuff that comes off the tubing little black pieces. You can re-use the coolant.

DO NOT RUN it with no water, if thats what you meant in bold.

I had to take the pump apart when I drained it, but I would contact Bryan first before doing so as he can give you better instruction, and whether he thinks its necessary for you to do so.

I also noticed that I have to keep the rad above the pump the entire time during and after filling or the noise comes back. I also cut a hole in my case so the res of the radiator will be upwards instead of downwards.

After refilling I'd run it for awhile and open the fill port to get air bubbles out, then fill a little bit a couple of times. Now I only have a noise over 2400 rpm instead of 1650rpm.


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> What type of fan profile do you have set in the bios? Try changing that around.
> When you drain it you need to use a filter to catch the stuff that comes off the tubing little black pieces. You can re-use the coolant.
> 
> DO NOT RUN it with no water, if thats what you meant in bold.
> 
> I had to take the pump apart when I drained it, but I would contact Bryan first before doing so as he can give you better instruction, and whether he thinks its necessary for you to do so.
> 
> I also noticed that I have to keep the rad above the pump the entire time during and after filling or the noise comes back. I also cut a hole in my case so the res of the radiator will be upwards instead of downwards.
> 
> After refilling I'd run it for awhile and open the fill port to get air bubbles out, then fill a little bit a couple of times. Now I only have a noise over 2400 rpm instead of 1650rpm.


opps i said that wrong lol it was when i was draining the water out not refilling lol i have it run to get the rest of the water out but as for the water there was no black stuff or anything the water just came out dark like its been water color or something also i cant run it lower then 45% with speed fan (its around 2400 rpm) any lower and it just stop, motherboard is a z77 mpower
i also have the rad higher then the pump when i refilled it


----------



## sgs2008

I cant seem to control the fan speeds. The fan's are really quiet which make sme think they arent running at 100% which is what I've been trying to do. Usually when i boot into windows they will get much louder and then go quiet. I've tried using the bios, speedfan and msi command center without success. Any suggestions ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> opps i said that wrong lol it was when i was draining the water out not refilling lol i have it run to get the rest of the water out but as for the water there was no black stuff or anything the water just came out dark like its been water color or something also i cant run it lower then 45% with speed fan (its around 2400 rpm) any lower and it just stop, motherboard is a z77 mpower
> i also have the rad higher then the pump when i refilled it


Don't run it when draining it. That will damage the pump. Running the pump without water in it will damage it.


----------



## Mega Man

+1


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> ok one question i am about to order h220 and main reseller for Portugal (globaldata) is giving 2years warranty, should it be 3 yeras?


It is 3 years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgs2008*
> 
> I cant seem to control the fan speeds. The fan's are really quiet which make sme think they arent running at 100% which is what I've been trying to do. Usually when i boot into windows they will get much louder and then go quiet. I've tried using the bios, speedfan and msi command center without success. Any suggestions ?


Cant help without knowing how it is all plugged in to which fan header?
Which mobo and what bios settings?


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> What type of fan profile do you have set in the bios? Try changing that around.


No profile, it's set to PWM and manual control, been using Speedfan to control it since day 1.


----------



## Dizz22r

Wow i just read gabe's post. I waited so long for the h320 and now i cant even purchase it.... What a bummer and i hope asetek loses. It's bs that they think they can monopolize the market with their crappy water coolers. They should try to sue cooler master as they have 2 aio on the market. The seidon series and now the eiseberg.

P.S i found a link to the patent that asetek claims swiftech lawfully breaking...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/104212756/Cooling-system-for-a-computer-system-US-patent-8240362


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Wow i just read gabe's post. I waited so long for the h320 and now i cant even purchase it.... What a bummer and i hope asetek loses. It's bs that they think they can monopolize the market with their crappy water coolers. They should try to sue cooler master as they have 2 aio on the market. The seidon series and now the eiseberg.
> 
> P.S i found a link to the patent that asetek claims swiftech lawfully breaking...
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/104212756/Cooling-system-for-a-computer-system-US-patent-8240362


Asetek already has with coolermaster for both. Eisberg is the same as H220, as it expandable. Seidon is like Aseteks CLC.
Canada still sell the H220/H320


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Asetek already has with coolermaster for both. Eisberg is the same as H220, as it expandable. Seidon is like Aseteks CLC.
> Canada still sell the H220/H320


Yes i knew that the eisberg is expandable and seidon is a closed system. That's why i said that asetek should sue them too.
I am not going to spend extra $ and on shipping just so i can have swiftech(located in longbeach 30 minutes from were i live). Send it to canada ncix and have them ship it back to me.

If i am going to spend the extra money i might as well spend it on the rs360 kit. Just saying.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Asetek already has with coolermaster for both. Eisberg is the same as H220, as it expandable. Seidon is like Aseteks CLC.
> Canada still sell the H220/H320


I would guess silverstone is on aseteks hit list too, for the tundra line of coolers.

Marrying the pump to the block in one component is a good idea, but does it really rise to the level of patentable? It's a rehash of prior art with some nice integration, nothing fundamentally new.


----------



## pcfoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> ok one question i am about to order h220 and main reseller for Portugal (globaldata) is giving 2years warranty, should it be 3 yeras?


If I remember correctly, EU re-sellers are obligated by law to give you 2 years warranty on all products. Even if those have 1 year factory warranty (most do).
Within those2 years, they are required to handle returns etc themselves, without asking the client to go through the manufacturer's support.
After those 2 years come to pass, and if the factory warranty is longer than that, then you are supposed to directly contact the official support of the manufacturer.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Wow i just read gabe's post. I waited so long for the h320 and now i cant even purchase it.... What a bummer and i hope asetek loses. It's bs that they think they can monopolize the market with their crappy water coolers. They should try to sue cooler master as they have 2 aio on the market. The seidon series and now the eiseberg.
> 
> P.S i found a link to the patent that asetek claims swiftech lawfully breaking...
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/104212756/Cooling-system-for-a-computer-system-US-patent-8240362


I'm finding it hard to see where Swiftech stole their patent, I just looked at every diagram and none of them even come close to what the pump looks like

With that being said, can someone link me a video of what a normal 3000rpm 220 pump should sound like after awhile, that isn't dying. I want to compare it with my noise. Better yet, would it be easier to compare my noise to the confirmed noise of all the loud/dead pumps that have been seen so far, posted on youtube and suck. And if it doesn't sound like that to not be worried?

Also is it possible for an air bubble to form, after the fact? My case has been sitting in the same spot since i put it back together. Was just wondering if it was possible over time like weeks for an air bubble to rear its ugly head


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Also is it possible for an air bubble to form, after the fact? My case has been sitting in the same spot since i put it back together. Was just wondering if it was possible over time like weeks for an air bubble to rear its ugly head


Yes, evaporation, not sure how long it takes for enough air to typically creep in. Do you have the reservoir/fillport on the radiator pointing up? That nook is there to help trap air that does creep in.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yes, evaporation, not sure how long it takes for enough air to typically creep in. Do you have the reservoir/fillport on the radiator pointing up? That nook is there to help trap air that does creep in.


Yes its pointing up, to remove the cap on the fillport would require me to remove the rad from the top of my 800D

Without worrying about it to much, will the bubble eventually just go away?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Yes its pointing up, to remove the cap on the fillport would require me to remove the rad from the top of my 800D
> 
> Without worrying about it to much, will the bubble eventually just go away?


Assuming it is air trapped in the pump (not a given), I don't think there is a definitive answer to that question. From the sounds of posts here, best advice seems to be to take action to get any air in there out... squeeze lines around the pump to push it thru, rock the system back and forth, run the pump speed up, maybe even remove the loop and shake things up.

I've had a CLC for coming up on 3 years now, fortunately never had any problems with air gurgling or pump sounds to wrestle with personally.


----------



## Skullwipe

So once every 30 minutes or so my pump shuts off for about 3 seconds, then jump to 3000 RPMs for 3 seconds, and then it goes back to what Speedfan is set to. Already reinstalled Speedfan, no idea what to do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So once every 30 minutes or so my pump shuts off for about 3 seconds, then jump to 3000 RPMs for 3 seconds, and then it goes back to what Speedfan is set to. Already reinstalled Speedfan, no idea what to do.


Have you monitored your temperatures at the times that your pump is shown to shut down and does it show your temperatures climbing?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Yes its pointing up, to remove the cap on the fillport would require me to remove the rad from the top of my 800D
> 
> Without worrying about it to much, will the bubble eventually just go away?


If the noise doesn't go away after trying the instructions in the OP then let me know. I have some other things that you can try if those don't work. Keep me posted.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you monitored your temperatures at the times that your pump is shown to shut down and does it show your temperatures climbing?


Yes, the temps jump by 3c at idle and I can hear the pump speed changes. It jumped to 3000 RPM's last night and and stayed there until I restarted my machine, Speedfan and BIOS settings don't seem to matter. I'm going to try switching fan headers.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I'm finding it hard to see where Swiftech stole their patent, I just looked at every diagram and none of them even come close to what the pump looks like
> 
> With that being said, can someone link me a video of what a normal 3000rpm 220 pump should sound like after awhile, that isn't dying. I want to compare it with my noise. Better yet, would it be easier to compare my noise to the confirmed noise of all the loud/dead pumps that have been seen so far, posted on youtube and suck. And if it doesn't sound like that to not be worried?
> 
> Also is it possible for an air bubble to form, after the fact? My case has been sitting in the same spot since i put it back together. Was just wondering if it was possible over time like weeks for an air bubble to rear its ugly head


Yea i find it pretty ridiculous right now that asetek is doing this. I waited so damn long for that h320 since december when they announced a triple rad version.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the noise doesn't go away after trying the instructions in the OP then let me know. I have some other things that you can try if those don't work. Keep me posted.


hello. which would be other ways to move the air bubble? if the instructions do not work OP.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> So once every 30 minutes or so my pump shuts off for about 3 seconds, then jump to 3000 RPMs for 3 seconds, and then it goes back to what Speedfan is set to. Already reinstalled Speedfan, no idea what to do.


My guess is that Speedfan is buggy.


----------



## sgs2008

Hi I have it plugged in as per the instruction manual with the pump on the first fan header on the provided fan splitter. Im using a msi z87 mpower max.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> My guess is that Speedfan is buggy.


That was my first thought, been using the same version since I installed the H220, new version does the same thing. Going to try BIOS control and see if it stops, if not I have to assume it's the pump.

Update: Uninstalled Speedfan, running on a different fan header and if anything the problem is worse.


----------



## Skullwipe

Pulling it out of of my case, something in the PWM circuit has gone bad. Back to the trusty Hyper 612 until I can get this RMA'd.


----------



## tongerks

Hi im new here and i want to join H220 users club, im from philippines







im currently building my rig.


----------



## sgs2008

My temps seem a bit high with a 4770k at 4.4ghz and 1.28 vcore i hit mid 90s after about 3 min on prime 95


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgs2008*
> 
> My temps seem a bit high with a 4770k at 4.4ghz and 1.28 vcore i hit mid 90s after about 3 min on prime 95


Might need to reapply the TIM or just double check the mount.


----------



## sgs2008

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Might need to reapply the TIM or just double check the mount.


Yea ill try that also forgot to say that my room temps is about 22 degrees case temps in bios are about 30 degrees celsius.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Soo,

Got a mate to get a H220, hyped him all up about it with reviews etc..

Worked fine, great temps on a 2500k @ 4.7 @ 1.42v or so.

Within two days I believe the pump has stopped working, the computer turns on (after being left) and then throttles the second is reaches Windows and then eventually thermal shuts down.
Tubing is hot to the touch after this.. Anyone else had any problems or is there anything I may have missed to cause this?

Don't really speak to him anymore because we had an argument.. But I feel bad.


----------



## kikibgd

just made my order i hope i wont run into problems....


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> the h320 is on amazon as well but £10 more than in their shop
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-Cooling/dp/B00E0N0CTM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374241562&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=swiftech+h320


So it is


----------



## Clexzor

correct


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> You guys see this? they pulled the 220 from US market someone didn't like the way the 220 is seeling lolsss
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/swiftech_withdraws_h220_cpu_liquid_cooling_kit_from_us_market.html


Try reading a few pages back in the thread, it's all been covered there.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I think the sound im hearing is just the pump at 3000 rpm. Since ive had the 220 ive had AC on or my headset on 99% of the time. So i think i was just hearing the pump at full speed for the first time.

It's not that bad. I have to stick my ear to the top of my 800D to even hear it. I'm assuming if it was an air bubble or a dying pump it would be much louder


----------



## uaedroid

Mates, which PC Cases are compatible with the long H320? Will it fit like those Corsair 600T or the Carbide Air 540? Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaedroid*
> 
> Mates, which PC Cases are compatible with the long H320? Will it fit like those Corsair 600T or the Carbide Air 540? Thanks.


It probably won't fit in the 600T, but it should fit fine in the front of the Air 540. I can't confirm that though since we haven't actually been able to test fit one in that particular case.


----------



## uaedroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It probably won't fit in the 600T, but it should fit fine in the front of the Air 540. I can't confirm that though since we haven't actually been able to test fit one in that particular case.


Thanks BramSLi1, I hope it will fit the Air 540. I am planning to get this one.


----------



## Diablo85

cpu/motherboard upgraded:
http://s286.photobucket.com/user/diablo8567/media/IMG_20130722_115805.jpg.html


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It probably won't fit in the 600T, but it should fit fine in the front of the Air 540. I can't confirm that though since we haven't actually been able to test fit one in that particular case.


My Corsair 540 should be in this week. I bought swiftech's 360mm rad just for this case. I will post pics once its all installed. Pretty excited!


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaedroid*
> 
> Mates, which PC Cases are compatible with the long H320? Will it fit like those Corsair 600T or the Carbide Air 540? Thanks.


You can put it in the top of the 600T only if you have the res pointed down. I cut a hole in the top of my case so I could flip it and have the res the right way


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> You can put it in the top of the 600T only if you have the res pointed down. I cut a hole in the top of my case so I could flip it and have the res the right way


I disagree. I don't think there's enough room in that case for a 3 x 120mm fan radiator.


----------



## bond32

On the topic again of the Asus 990fx Crosshair V formula Z, I feel like the h220 is best mounted only where the intake is on the VRM side. Otherwise the tubing will be touching the VRM heatsink (outlet). Fitment is still questionable but it seems to be fine.


----------



## Ehpik

I know I had to mount my h220 (when I had it) on my MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming sideways. Had my in-port north and my out-port south, cause if I mounted it like "normal", it would press hard against my memory.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I disagree. I don't think there's enough room in that case for a 3 x 120mm fan radiator.


:facepalm: I read that as H220. The H320 will fit if you cut the case a bit. Not natively though. That's my mistake


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> On the topic again of the Asus 990fx Crosshair V formula Z, I feel like the h220 is best mounted only where the intake is on the VRM side. Otherwise the tubing will be touching the VRM heatsink (outlet). Fitment is still questionable but it seems to be fine.


I am not understanding your description on how to mount it. I suppose you mean the water block. I will have a top mount radiator for the H320 in my case as soon as it is available. I am totally unsure if I can install it with the reservoir fill-port up, as is recommended.


----------



## bond32

Some pictures of the Asus 990fx crosshair v formula z :


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> :facepalm: I read that as H220. The H320 will fit if you cut the case a bit. Not natively though. That's my mistake


But, I think in the air540, a 320 rad would fit either up top or in front







Looks like a neat case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> :facepalm: I read that as H220. The H320 will fit if you cut the case a bit. Not natively though. That's my mistake


No problem. I had a feeling that you just misread it.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaedroid*
> 
> Mates, which PC Cases are compatible with the long H320?


The forthcoming Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 can handle 360mm radiator on top, and also 280mm radiator on front / probaply 2 x140mm radiators on floor and backpanel.

That should be enough of radiators for everyone?

Check it out. We're getting one! ;o)

Without window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/55/Deep+Silence+6+

With window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/63/Deep+Silence+6+Window


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I disagree. I don't think there's enough room in that case for a 3 x 120mm fan radiator.


You are correct sir


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> The forthcoming Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 can handle 360mm radiator on top, and also 280mm radiator on front / probaply 2 x140mm radiators on floor and backpanel.
> 
> That should be enough of radiators for everyone?
> 
> Check it out. We're getting one! ;o)
> 
> Without window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/55/Deep+Silence+6+
> 
> With window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/63/Deep+Silence+6+Window


not bad

but think i would prefer the new phanteks primo

http://www.phanteks.com/#&panel1-1&panel2-1


----------



## bond32

I asked in the corsair 540 owners forum but I'll ask here, is my single 120mm radiator even worth installing? I'll have the swiftech 360mm radiator up front with 3 corsair sp120 in pull and the h220 radiator will be in the top with the helix fans in pull. I was planning on having the single 120mm rad where the exhaust fan is on the case, so my plan would be fluid entering the inlet from the top rad to the cpu or to that single 120mm.

My only concern would be getting the loop filled/primed/bled. Thoughts?


----------



## AlDyer

Can I use the original HydrX coolant when I expand my loop after 3 weeks or so (hopefully)? Or any better suggestions?

My current list of items. And I decided to get the items locally instead of highflow.nl
Any reason why I should order from highflow instead?

This is all I need, right?

EDIT: Forgot the fans D


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Can I use the original HydrX coolant when I expand my loop after 3 weeks or so (hopefully)? Or any better suggestions?
> 
> My current list of items. And I decided to get the items locally instead of highflow.nl
> Any reason why I should order from highflow instead?
> 
> This is all I need, right?
> 
> EDIT: Forgot the fans D


You can use the original liquid as long as you don't contaminate it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Can I use the original HydrX coolant when I expand my loop after 3 weeks or so (hopefully)? Or any better suggestions?
> 
> My current list of items. And I decided to get the items locally instead of highflow.nl
> Any reason why I should order from highflow instead?
> 
> This is all I need, right?
> EDIT: Forgot the fans D


You will need more coolant after you expand. Adding to is fine with original coolant.
Make sure the 7950 you have is of reference model PCB. Also look at the Swiftech GPU block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I asked in the corsair 540 owners forum but I'll ask here, is my single 120mm radiator even worth installing? I'll have the swiftech 360mm radiator up front with 3 corsair sp120 in pull and the h220 radiator will be in the top with the helix fans in pull. I was planning on having the single 120mm rad where the exhaust fan is on the case, so my plan would be fluid entering the inlet from the top rad to the cpu or to that single 120mm.
> 
> My only concern would be getting the loop filled/primed/bled. Thoughts?


360+240 is more than enough. Dont need the extra 120mm rad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I asked in the corsair 540 owners forum but I'll ask here, is my single 120mm radiator even worth installing? I'll have the swiftech 360mm radiator up front with 3 corsair sp120 in pull and the h220 radiator will be in the top with the helix fans in pull. I was planning on having the single 120mm rad where the exhaust fan is on the case, so my plan would be fluid entering the inlet from the top rad to the cpu or to that single 120mm.
> 
> My only concern would be getting the loop filled/primed/bled. Thoughts?


Agree with Sp33d Junki3. No need for the extra 120mm. While rads does not count as a high restriction device in the loop they still add some...You would have plenty of cooling power with the other rads no need to include the 120 mm in the loop.

mine


----------



## Skullwipe

Still waiting patiently for the Fractal Arc XL, they need to hurry up and release that bad boy...the H320 would drop right in.


----------



## goddog

so here is my expanded h220 in a corsair 550D added a qp 120 rad and swiftech rad, the block is an EK 7970 LTG edition. ... as my first h220 pump failed, leaving me a bit paranoid i am looking to add Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump - PWM Enabled from frozen cpu to my loop this fall sometime, and at the same time maybe a 360 rad external


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Some pictures of the Asus 990fx crosshair v formula z :


Thanks for the images.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> cpu/motherboard upgraded:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s286.photobucket.com/user/diablo8567/media/IMG_20130722_115805.jpg.html


nice gpu block i love my komodos.... now to find 2 more of my cards for quad fire.


----------



## uaedroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> The forthcoming Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 can handle 360mm radiator on top, and also 280mm radiator on front / probaply 2 x140mm radiators on floor and backpanel.
> 
> That should be enough of radiators for everyone?
> 
> Check it out. We're getting one! ;o)
> 
> Without window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/55/Deep+Silence+6+
> 
> With window: http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/63/Deep+Silence+6+Window


Thanks for sharing this one.


----------



## jchambers2586

how much heat will a stock gtx 570 dump into a h220? Prime 95 temps are 71on the highest core on a 3570K I am stuck with a singe rad because I have a small case and suck at modding.


----------



## kalidae

Hey guys! I'm really considering getting this cooler to cool my fx 8350. I don't want to add a gpu block or anything for a while. If I was to add a new rad say a Black Ice sr1 120 and use all scythe gentle typhoon fans on both rads in push/pull, would it be much better than just the h220 stock performance? Or would I only be looking at say a 1 or 2 degree decrease in temps?


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You will need more coolant after you expand. Adding to is fine with original coolant.
> Make sure the 7950 you have is of reference model PCB. Also look at the Swiftech GPU block.
> 360+240 is more than enough. Dont need the extra 120mm rad.


Yeah I would look at the Komodo, but it costs almost twice as much so I don't know about that. I know there is a reason, but yeah. Maybe you can talk me into it. The 7950 is a ref pcb.
So I add the older HydrX in? Or only older HydrX?


----------



## kikibgd

i just recieved the h220 looks good small marks on the tubes from shipping nothing serouse(no cuts)

how long should i test it for leaks?

also i noticed fittings on the pump and radiator (oposite side from swiftech logo on the pump) are more loose then other side, is that normal?


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i just recieved the h220 looks good small marks on the tubes from shipping nothing serouse(no cuts)
> how long should i test it for leaks?
> also i noticed fittings on the pump and radiator (oposite side from swiftech logo on the pump) are more loose then other side, is that normal?


welcome, testing runs the gambit from a few hours, to a couple days, to no testing, its a matter of how comfortable you are with it. I ran mine thru a weekend off and on. fittings loose meaning the actual screws and fitting are loose or the ease of swiveling? didn't notice a difference on mine.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> Hey guys! I'm really considering getting this cooler to cool my fx 8350. I don't want to add a gpu block or anything for a while. If I was to add a new rad say a Black Ice sr1 120 and use all scythe gentle typhoon fans on both rads in push/pull, would it be much better than just the h220 stock performance? Or would I only be looking at say a 1 or 2 degree decrease in temps?


Yeah typically no temp difference at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i just recieved the h220 looks good small marks on the tubes from shipping nothing serouse(no cuts)
> 
> how long should i test it for leaks?
> 
> also i noticed fittings on the pump and radiator (oposite side from swiftech logo on the pump) are more loose then other side, is that normal?


Some do no leak testing at all, as it should be ready out of the box. Others say 30 mins to 12 hours. Up to you what you feel safe with.

It the fittings seem loose then tighten them they can only tighten so far so be careful.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yeah typically no temp difference at all.


So even with another rad and the fans upgraded I probably wouldn't be able to hit a safe 5ghz or close to on fx8350?


----------



## kikibgd

yep the pump arrived dead, i tryed with fan splitter and without just pluged it into the motherboard, tryed other connectors on the board all say 0rpm, i tryed to put some random fan on the board in the same connector its working so the board is good.

when i touch the pump i dont feel anything...

and i tought i would be lucky one with no problems....
oh i hate when this happends.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> So even with another rad and the fans upgraded I probably wouldn't be able to hit a safe 5ghz or close to on fx8350?


I did something similar except I also cool my 7970. I found the CPU temperatures to be slightly better, but the gpu temperatures were a good bit better with the extra single 120mm rad. With a 360mm rad added temps were much better.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I did something similar except I also cool my 7970. I found the CPU temperatures to be slightly better, but the gpu temperatures were a good bit better with the extra single 120mm rad. With a 360mm rad added temps were much better.


I can only fit a 120 and a 240 rad in my case. It's a CM HAF XB. I'm just really tossing up whether to get a custom loop or buy a h220 and customise that a little but my goal is to hit 4.8-5ghz with my system being quite quiet.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> I can only fit a 120 and a 240 rad in my case. It's a CM HAF XB. I'm just really tossing up whether to get a custom loop or buy a h220 and customise that a little but my goal is to hit 4.8-5ghz with my system being quite quiet.


I have that case too. I got the swiftech single 120 high performance,was able to do 5 ghz stable eith my 6300 on the 2 rads.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i just recieved the h220 looks good small marks on the tubes from shipping nothing serouse(no cuts)
> 
> how long should i test it for leaks?
> 
> also i noticed fittings on the pump and radiator (oposite side from swiftech logo on the pump) are more loose then other side, is that normal?


ZERO testing, come join me on the dark side, show these people who the real men are.


----------



## kikibgd

I would but pump was dead out of the box tomorrow new unit is arriving i hope no problems.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## Stablerage

Is this all needed for membership?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> yep the pump arrived dead, i tryed with fan splitter and without just pluged it into the motherboard, tryed other connectors on the board all say 0rpm, i tryed to put some random fan on the board in the same connector its working so the board is good.
> 
> when i touch the pump i dont feel anything...
> 
> and i tought i would be lucky one with no problems....
> oh i hate when this happends.


I sent you a PM. Don't worry, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> I would but pump was dead out of the box tomorrow new unit is arriving i hope no problems.
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 4 Beta


I take it the reseller took care of you? Please confirm this so that I'll know how to proceed.


----------



## kikibgd

everything is taken care of, reseller sent already new unit tomorrow its arriving, i will keep you posted,
cant wait to install it


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> 
> Is this all needed for membership?


Good lookin rig! Fill out the form in the original post on page 1 of this thread and you be automatically added to the group


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Nope, just something that comes off the tubing. It looks white until you drain your H220 and filter it with a coffee filter, you'll see the particles are actually black.


Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.


----------



## elricm

Looks like I am the latest to be bit by a pump going bad. Received my H220 back in April, it's been running flawlessly up until today. Was in the middle of a project when the system died. On restart, got a CPU fan error. BIOS reports N/A on the CPU fan RPM. Had the pump on CPU Fan, and the radiator fans on the PWM splitter, which was connected to the CPU Opt Fan. Tried various wiring reconfigurations, with no change. (BTW, I know the CPU Fan and CPU Opt Fan connections are the only "true" PWM connectors on my board.)

With the project hanging over me, decided to pull out the H220 and put back in my CM 212+, wired to the CPU Fan. System works fine, albeit a couple C warmer.

I'm not sure if the pump is not working, or simply not reporting RPM - is there any easy way to tell? I'm guessing in either case I need to RMA? Looked for an RMA form on the Swiftech site but didn't quickly find one - what's the process? Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elricm*
> 
> Looks like I am the latest to be bit by a pump going bad. Received my H220 back in April, it's been running flawlessly up until today. Was in the middle of a project when the system died. On restart, got a CPU fan error. BIOS reports N/A on the CPU fan RPM. Had the pump on CPU Fan, and the radiator fans on the PWM splitter, which was connected to the CPU Opt Fan. Tried various wiring reconfigurations, with no change. (BTW, I know the CPU Fan and CPU Opt Fan connections are the only "true" PWM connectors on my board.)
> 
> With the project hanging over me, decided to pull out the H220 and put back in my CM 212+, wired to the CPU Fan. System works fine, albeit a couple C warmer.
> 
> I'm not sure if the pump is not working, or simply not reporting RPM - is there any easy way to tell? I'm guessing in either case I need to RMA? Looked for an RMA form on the Swiftech site but didn't quickly find one - what's the process? Thanks.


Please PM me and I'll assist you with getting your kit replaced.


----------



## SirGeod

My H220 has temps that run at 40c at idle and around 60-80 under load with P95 and IBT at stock turbo is this typical for this CLC? I've seen reports of much much cooler temps at higher OC's... ([email protected] to be stable and not crash) because my chip is not stable at any oc without insane voltage on vcore but that's a different thing all together (4.2ghz needs 1.35v to be stable)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> My H220 has temps that run at 40c at idle and around 60-80 under load with P95 and IBT at stock turbo is this typical for this CLC? I've seen reports of much much cooler temps at higher OC's... ([email protected] to be stable and not crash) because my chip is not stable at any oc without insane voltage on vcore but that's a different thing all together (4.2ghz needs 1.35v to be stable)


What mobo and CPU?
How is the H220 setup?
What case and airflow?


----------



## Sarah M

Hi everyone, I think that maybe I have a problem with a pump also







My H220 has also worked well for a couple of months but has not had to do any real work really. Yesterday, the i7 3960x was at full throttle when the system alerted a warning that cpu fan was at zero rpm then a temp warning of 90 C followed by a system shutdown. I was shocked and worried and let the system cool down. It started again normally so I have now investigated. I am usung a Rampage 4 extreme and related diag software. I used OCCT to load the CPU and watched the temps. They rose ( cant remember temp but not over 90) and the pump shutdown and appeared to cycle in this manner, starting and shutting down. Later, when it had cooled down, I could hear a slight gurgling from the unit and bios reports cpu fan speed of approx 2200 rpm (pump connected to cpu header) Im a bit worried to use this now, can anyone advise please?


----------



## SirGeod

Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Hero
Case: Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced
Fans are set with 230mm front intake 230mm side intake and the H220 intake with the 140mm fan in the back doing exhaust. The H220 Rad fans are running at max with the pump at max rpm as well.

EDIT: <---Idiot forgot to mention CPU, its a 4770k.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> 
> Is this all needed for membership?


I'd move the tubes so they arent touching the gpu, no need for extra heat for the rad to cool down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Hero
> Case: Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced
> Fans are set with 230mm front intake 230mm side intake and the H220 intake with the 140mm fan in the back doing exhaust. The H220 Rad fans are running at max with the pump at max rpm as well.
> 
> EDIT: <---Idiot forgot to mention CPU, its a 4770k.


Those temps may be normal due to Haswell running so hot.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VI Hero
> Case: Cooler Master HAF-932 Advanced
> Fans are set with 230mm front intake 230mm side intake and the H220 intake with the 140mm fan in the back doing exhaust. The H220 Rad fans are running at max with the pump at max rpm as well.
> 
> EDIT: <---Idiot forgot to mention CPU, its a 4770k.


Ok good so far.
What is your ram and settings used?
Power supply (using 4pin or 8pin) to mobo
What is the ambient temps?

How is the H220 plugged in and what speeds are the fans and pump?

If the CPU is not stable at 3.9ghz then you have other issues causing it. Could be Ram, PSU and H220 not correctly mount/seated.


----------



## SirGeod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Ok good so far.
> What is your ram and settings used?
> Power supply (using 4pin or 8pin) to mobo
> What is the ambient temps?
> 
> How is the H220 plugged in and what speeds are the fans and pump?
> 
> If the CPU is not stable at 3.9ghz then you have other issues causing it. Could be Ram, PSU and H220 not correctly mount/seated.


Ram is Corsair Vengeance [email protected]
PSU is 8 pin
Ambient temps are 26c
I redid the thermal paste perfectly on the H220 about 3 times after getting these temps and I still get them repeatedly. All case fans and H220 fans are running at max rpm settings, I really don't care about noise I just want raw cooling performance. The fans on the H220 rad are plugged into the adaptor thing that comes with it and that's plugged into CPU Fan header while pump is in the CPU Opt fan header running at max speeds for both.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Ram is Corsair Vengeance [email protected]
> PSU is 8 pin
> Ambient temps are 26c
> I redid the thermal paste perfectly on the H220 about 3 times after getting these temps and I still get them repeatedly. All case fans and H220 fans are running at max rpm settings, I really don't care about noise I just want raw cooling performance. The fans on the H220 rad are plugged into the adaptor thing that comes with it and that's plugged into CPU Fan header while pump is in the CPU Opt fan header running at max speeds for both.


Is all 4 ram slots filled?
Which PSU?
What are the speeds of the fans and Pump?
Which direction is the hoses placed on the pump? Left/Right or Top/Down


----------



## SirGeod

Only 2 dims are filled.
Corsair HX1050
Speed of pump is 2934rpm and rad fans are 1767rpm
Hoses are pointed down with the hoses facing down and to the right of my case when looking in from the little plexiglass window on my CM Haf-932 advanced


----------



## asus3571

the opt fan header is not the one to hook it up to. that could be the problem molex to the red cap on the pwm slpitter then back to cpu fan header then both fans hooked up to chan 1 and 2


----------



## Turt1e

wow, Haswell really heats up a lot, 1.36v with throttling on LinX


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Only 2 dims are filled.
> Corsair HX1050
> Speed of pump is 2934rpm and rad fans are 1767rpm
> Hoses are pointed down with the hoses facing down and to the right of my case when looking in from the little plexiglass window on my CM Haf-932 advanced


Try rotating the pump so the logo is on the bottom right. Would be more simpler to say where the logo is.
Ambient is a little warm, which will affect your temps. But big issue is the unstable OC.
From what i see, your H220 is fine. The problem lies is ambient temps and OC settings.

Have you tested the ram to make sure there are no errors? Did you manually set ram or use XMP profile?
Check to see if a bios update will fix the issues?
Are you using software to OC or through the Bios? I do not know what settings you used to OC.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarah M*
> 
> Hi everyone, I think that maybe I have a problem with a pump also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My H220 has also worked well for a couple of months but has not had to do any real work really. Yesterday, the i7 3960x was at full throttle when the system alerted a warning that cpu fan was at zero rpm then a temp warning of 90 C followed by a system shutdown. I was shocked and worried and let the system cool down. It started again normally so I have now investigated. I am usung a Rampage 4 extreme and related diag software. I used OCCT to load the CPU and watched the temps. They rose ( cant remember temp but not over 90) and the pump shutdown and appeared to cycle in this manner, starting and shutting down. Later, when it had cooled down, I could hear a slight gurgling from the unit and bios reports cpu fan speed of approx 2200 rpm (pump connected to cpu header) Im a bit worried to use this now, can anyone advise please?


Please send me a PM so that I can help you resolve your issue. It could simply be an air bubble that was pulled into the pump.


----------



## SirGeod

Memtest said ram was fine. I was doing an OC via BIOS but I couldn't get 4.2ghz stable at 1.3v even to boot screen. And my BIOS is up to date


----------



## marc0053

Watercooling parts checklist

This is what I am thinking for a H220 kit expansion


I plan on adding to the H220:

2 x 240mm swiftech MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series
3 x 45° Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapter
2 x 90° Swivel Elbow Lok-Seal™ adapter
6 x ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting
1 x 2m TruFlex tubing black
3 x 16 fl oz HydrX PM Coolant
2 x EK-FC Titan SE - Acetal Nickel gpu waterblocks with backplates
2 x G¼ Male-Male SLI & CrossFireX connector fitting adjustable from 41 to 65mm
2 x G1/4 (1/4" BSPP) plugs
4 x Noctua nf f12 - 120mm fans

I plan on using the H220 pump and reservoir to feed this loop.

I will be using this loop for a 4.8 GHz i7 3930k and dual GTX titans at 1.21V (1.16 to 2.0 GHz)


----------



## bond32

I think you would be ok with just one additional 240, but if you can afford 2 go for it. Also careful with those compression fittings. I bought 2 of those swiftech lok seal and tried putting them with my primochill primoflex tubing... Did not work. In fact both compression fittings cracked.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I think you would be ok with just one additional 240, but if you can afford 2 go for it. Also careful with those compression fittings. I bought 2 of those swiftech lok seal and tried putting them with my primochill primoflex tubing... Did not work. In fact both compression fittings cracked.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Oh wow, thanks for the update. I'll check to see what Frozen cpu offers for compression fitting.


----------



## kalidae

What sort of clock could I get with the h220 and a fx 8350? I have my 8350 @4.4ghz 1.26v but my current cooler (antec 920 kuhler) won't let me get any higher. I'm sure this chip is good for 5ghz just wondering if the h220 could get me closer than 4.4?


----------



## Stablerage

The pipes are approximately one inch away. It is the angle of the pic that makes it look like they are touching GPU.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> What sort of clock could I get with the h220 and a fx 8350? I have my 8350 @4.4ghz 1.26v but my current cooler (antec 920 kuhler) won't let me get any higher. I'm sure this chip is good for 5ghz just wondering if the h220 could get me closer than 4.4?


Depends on many other factors such as motherboard, psu,and overclocking ability.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I think you would be ok with just one additional 240, but if you can afford 2 go for it. Also careful with those compression fittings. I bought 2 of those swiftech lok seal and tried putting them with my primochill primoflex tubing... Did not work. In fact both compression fittings cracked.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Primochill tubing is slightly larger diameter than others, hence why it doesn't fit Lok-Seal fittings. It's been mentioned before. It will fit in the clamps of the H220 fine though. Personally unless I was wanting red or another color than black white or clear, I'd just use Swiftech's True-Flex tubing, which will work fine with Lok-Seals.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Depends on many other factors such as motherboard, psu,and overclocking ability.


The motherboard is a sabertooth and the psu I'm getting will be an 800w probably a corsair (im replacing my current psu)But what I want to know is will this cool my CPU much better than my antec 920? 8530, 4.4ghz @ 1.26v. The 920 kuhler hits 59 degrees under load on p95. I'm sure my system can hit 5ghz, I just want to know if the h220 will allow me to or at least get close because the 920 will not.


----------



## Phelan

Now that I got my 7970 working again, I ordered the fittings to put my loop together complete today! My rig should hopefull be running in a few days!


----------



## SirGeod

What would normal load temps be for an H220 on a 4770k O.C to about 4.2ghz at 23c ambient temps? Because mine is high 30s and mid 40s which seems quite high but it could just be Haswell..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> What would normal load temps be for an H220 on a 4770k O.C to about 4.2ghz at 23c ambient temps? Because mine is high 30s and mid 40s which seems quite high but it could just be Haswell..


If you're hitting high 30s to mid 40s at load with an overclocked 4770k that's amazing from what I've seen. Those are great temperatures and you should be able to push it even further.


----------



## Phelan

Load or idle? If load, how are you loading it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Load or idle? If load, how are you loading it?


Good question. I didn't think to ask because for most it's either Prime 95 or OCCT.


----------



## mcnumpty23

just wondering

been seeing the h320 on sale for a few days now in the uk

how soon till we see a review of it from linus or ttl or martin?

ie have you sent any h320 out to reviewers?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> just wondering
> 
> been seeing the h320 on sale for a few days now in the uk
> 
> how soon till we see a review of it from linus or ttl or martin?
> 
> ie have you sent any h320 out to reviewers?


I'm not aware of any being sent to reviewers and I would be very surprised if we send one to ttl.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm not aware of any being sent to reviewers and I would be very surprised if we send one to ttl.


hehe--fair enough with the ttl

any idea how much better the h320 would be over the h220 on an overclocked 2600k?

got an empty storm trooper case here that i am pretty sure the h320 can be made to fit in the roof or front with the use of a dremel

and the h320 seems to just be sitting in stock in the uk so its just proving so tempting to grab one--thought they would have flown off the shelf

would just be nice to have seen a review first


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> hehe--fair enough with the ttl
> 
> any idea how much better the h320 would be over the h220 on an overclocked 2600k?
> 
> got an empty storm trooper case here that i am pretty sure the h320 can be made to fit in the roof or front with the use of a dremel
> 
> and the h320 seems to just be sitting in stock in the uk so its just proving so tempting to grab one--thought they would have flown off the shelf
> 
> would just be nice to have seen a review first


That varies on many factors. You have more surface area+cooling. You will see a slight temp drop.


----------



## SirGeod

Those temperatures 34-43 are idling, on load they're anywhere from 65-80 under load at 4.2ghz while the OC isn't stable at all







I got a crappy chip. Are those temps normal? I downclocked to the stock turbo speeds on my 4770k cause I just gave up on OC with Haswell to 3.9ghz and the temps are constantly 34-43 idling and around 55-67 load..those seem quite high from what I've seen on reviewer sites at higher OC's...is my pump just not seated correctly or something regardless my temps are too hot for me to OC because my chip sucks :\

EDIT: Those idle temps are no stress test and the load ones are with Prime95 and they go into the 90's capping at like 93c using Intel Burn Test and AIDA64 seems to just destroy my H220 as it makes it throttle instantly :\


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Those temperatures 34-43 are idling, on load they're anywhere from 65-80 under load at 4.2ghz while the OC isn't stable at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a crappy chip. Are those temps normal? I downclocked to the stock turbo speeds on my 4770k cause I just gave up on OC with Haswell to 3.9ghz and the temps are constantly 34-43 idling and around 55-67 load..those seem quite high from what I've seen on reviewer sites at higher OC's...is my pump just not seated correctly or something regardless my temps are too hot for me to OC because my chip sucks :\


What are your ambient temps? Between Hasweel running naturally hot and summertime heating things up, that sounds pretty normal to me.


----------



## Avonosac

Trying to explain the difference between potential and temperatures for heat exchange is usually tough. Depends on how much heat is being dumped into the loop, how much air flow, how much constant pressure, dust, humidity, ambient temperatures. Point is it generally helps, but how much it will help in your case is impossible to answer. If the 220 is sufficient to get good temperatures in your loop, I wouldn't expect a tremendous drop in temps if you add the 320.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What are your ambient temps? Between Hasweel running naturally hot and summertime heating things up, that sounds pretty normal to me.


Haswell isn't that hot... its just about SB in terms of wattage, you just have bad IHS application with uneven glue just like IB, which causes higher core temperatures.


----------



## SirGeod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What are your ambient temps? Between Hasweel running naturally hot and summertime heating things up, that sounds pretty normal to me.


My ambient temperatures are about 23-24c
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Trying to explain the difference between potential and temperatures for heat exchange is usually tough. Depends on how much heat is being dumped into the loop, how much air flow, how much constant pressure, dust, humidity, ambient temperatures. Point is it generally helps, but how much it will help in your case is impossible to answer. If the 220 is sufficient to get good temperatures in your loop, I wouldn't expect a tremendous drop in temps if you add the 320.
> Haswell isn't that hot... its just about SB in terms of wattage, you just have bad IHS application with uneven glue just like IB, which causes higher core temperatures.


So should I try cleaning the CPU and the copper block on the H220 and try mounting it again?

EDIT: The 33-40 idle is the same when I was trying to OC to 4.2ghz and failed the load @4.2ghz was those higher number I mentioned earlier but the load at stock turbo is like 50-68c which is still pretty bad in my eyes >_>


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Trying to explain the difference between potential and temperatures for heat exchange is usually tough. Depends on how much heat is being dumped into the loop, how much air flow, how much constant pressure, dust, humidity, ambient temperatures. Point is it generally helps, but how much it will help in your case is impossible to answer. If the 220 is sufficient to get good temperatures in your loop, I wouldn't expect a tremendous drop in temps if you add the 320.
> Haswell isn't that hot... its just about SB in terms of wattage, you just have bad IHS application with uneven glue just like IB, which causes higher core temperatures.


That's what I was talking about. By naturally hot I meant hotter cores because of the cheap TIM in the chip, like Ivy.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> My ambient temperatures are about 23-24c
> So should I try cleaning the CPU and the copper block on the H220 and try mounting it again?


Sounds normal to me..


----------



## SirGeod

Would delidding help my temps at all? Or possibly adding swiftech 140mm rad on my exahust fan? Or a more entertaining idea for me would be if the 230mm fan slot on the side of the case could take a 240mm swiftech rad since it says on the website that it can use 120mmx4 2 on top 2 on bottom, can anyone tell me if it would be better to add another 240mm rad or a 120/140 rad and if the 240mm would fit on the side intake panel?


----------



## Brennan Hodges

I'm looking for a second opinion on my H220. The picture is of my new system and I want to change the tubing out for some white ones. Should I go through the trouble with it or just leave it stock? There also a little too long for the R4 if anyone was wondering about the fit


----------



## SirGeod

Makes me quite sad seeing people that OC their 4770k's at voltages below 1.3 to be stable at even 4.2ghz or even higher clocks...4.2 for me requires 1.3v+







and 4.6 I'm guessing would need 1.5v+!


----------



## kikibgd

new unit arrived leak testing for few hours and then installation
Thanks to BramSLI1 once again for fast support.

cant wait to see what this baby can do


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> new unit arrived leak testing for few hours and then installation
> Thanks to BramSLI1 once again for fast support.
> 
> cant wait to see what this baby can do


Just so you know, leak testing really shouldn't be necessary since these are all leak tested at the factory before they're shipped.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> My ambient temperatures are about 23-24c
> So should I try cleaning the CPU and the copper block on the H220 and try mounting it again?
> 
> EDIT: The 33-40 idle is the same when I was trying to OC to 4.2ghz and failed the load @4.2ghz was those higher number I mentioned earlier but the load at stock turbo is like 50-68c which is still pretty bad in my eyes >_>


Did you remove the plastic? There is no reason with those ambient you should have such high idles as that.. unless you're pumping some serious voltage into the chip.

EDIT: 1.3v+ yea that isn't that bad.. welcome to IVB / Haswell ****ty IHS applications screw you over.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> That's what I was talking about. By naturally hot I meant hotter cores because of the cheap TIM in the chip, like Ivy.




It isn't really even the TIM, its not that bad. The issue is the glue between IHS and PCB being unevenly applied to the IHS lip, and the pressure used is either inconsistent, or insufficient to make a uniform connection to the die on the pcb. Sure people get another 8c or so by delidding and adding CLU or some other crazy good liquid metal TIM, but the majority of the gains are purely from making better contact DIE -> IHS.

PS.. gotta love the paint drawings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> Would delidding help my temps at all? Or possibly adding swiftech 140mm rad on my exahust fan? Or a more entertaining idea for me would be if the 230mm fan slot on the side of the case could take a 240mm swiftech rad since it says on the website that it can use 120mmx4 2 on top 2 on bottom, can anyone tell me if it would be better to add another 240mm rad or a 120/140 rad and if the 240mm would fit on the side intake panel?


Missed this one. Yes, delidding would almost certainly help your temps. How much depends on the TIM you replace it with, and how bad your current chip is set. I am not sure I would go through that process, as you already have a weak chip.. you wouldn't want to weaken it any further. Delidding voids the warranty, so your stuck with whatever you get out of your delidded chip when you pull the top off.

Again, unless I missed a configuration post somewhere, the H220 is more than sufficient to radiate the heat generated by your chip. The issue is the heat is getting stuck in the TIM between the DIE and the IHS, because of extra thickness / non-uniform distances, and the heat transference is not working quite as well as it is designed to do.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That varies on many factors. You have more surface area+cooling. You will see a slight temp drop.


if you have more surface area+cooling

presumably 1 third more surface area? as its 240 to 360 and the rads the same thickness--plus one extra fan

does that mean its going to be x% cooler or does it mean it will take x amount longer to stabilise at the same temperature?

assuming all other factors are the same--ie cpu,voltage etc

if you understand what i mean


----------



## SirGeod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Did you remove the plastic? There is no reason with those ambient you should have such high idles as that.. unless you're pumping some serious voltage into the chip.
> 
> EDIT: 1.3v+ yea that isn't that bad.. welcome to IVB / Haswell ****ty IHS applications screw you over.
> 
> 
> It isn't really even the TIM, its not that bad. The issue is the glue between IHS and PCB being unevenly applied to the IHS lip, and the pressure used is either inconsistent, or insufficient to make a uniform connection to the die on the pcb. Sure people get another 8c or so by delidding and adding CLU or some other crazy good liquid metal TIM, but the majority of the gains are purely from making better contact DIE -> IHS.
> 
> PS.. gotta love the paint drawings.
> Missed this one. Yes, delidding would almost certainly help your temps. How much depends on the TIM you replace it with, and how bad your current chip is set. I am not sure I would go through that process, as you already have a weak chip.. you wouldn't want to weaken it any further. Delidding voids the warranty, so your stuck with whatever you get out of your delidded chip when you pull the top off.
> 
> Again, unless I missed a configuration post somewhere, the H220 is more than sufficient to radiate the heat generated by your chip. The issue is the heat is getting stuck in the TIM between the DIE and the IHS, because of extra thickness / non-uniform distances, and the heat transference is not working quite as well as it is designed to do.


So you're basically saying I got mildly shafted by intel for my 4770k?

EDIT: What plastic are you talking about? Pics please?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> if you have more surface area+cooling
> 
> presumably 1 third more surface area? as its 240 to 360 and the rads the same thickness--plus one extra fan
> 
> does that mean its going to be x% cooler or does it mean it will take x amount longer to stabilise at the same temperature?
> 
> assuming all other factors are the same--ie cpu,voltage etc
> 
> if you understand what i mean


It is not a linear equation, and the law of diminishing returns gets you. The closer your temps get to ambient, the more surface area you need to dissipate the same amount of heat. There are places on this forum to help you figure out the math of the thermodynamics, but rule of thumb is 120mm of rad space per block + 120mm of rad space and you should be set.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirGeod*
> 
> So you're basically saying I got mildly shafted by intel for my 4770k?
> 
> EDIT: What plastic are you talking about? Pics please?


They don't call it the silicon lottery for nothing.

The plastic on the CPU block is what I was speaking about, no I don't have pics I'm at work, lol.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> It is not a linear equation, and the law of diminishing returns gets you. The closer your temps get to ambient, the more surface area you need to dissipate the same amount of heat. There are places on this forum to help you figure out the math of the thermodynamics, but rule of thumb is 120mm of rad space per block + 120mm of rad space and you should be set
> 
> .


thanks

dont think i will bother with the math of the thermodynamics









but your rule of thumb gives a rough guide that says if my h80 can run it at 5ghz then the h320 should definitely improve it

wasnt sure the h220 would be enough of an improvement to justify the cost

but those h320s are just sitting there begging me to buy one and dont think i can hold out much longer


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just so you know, leak testing really shouldn't be necessary since these are all leak tested at the factory before they're shipped.


1h till i came from the gym








just to be 100% sure


----------



## kikibgd

ok i just mounted it and its not correct since heatspreder on this board is to big so pump is moved to the left.... i will see maybe tomorrow i cut little bit


----------



## Avonosac

What about spinning the block 90 degrees?


----------



## tw33k

Just pre-ordered a H320. Will arrive next month.


----------



## Phelan

Grrr..... FCPU's 3/8x5/8 Lok-Seal fitting are a bit more than Swiftech's price ($6.99 vs.$4.99). I guess that's why they're the only ones with them in stock huh? LOL.

I got an email from Michelle saying ETA2-3 weeks for these from Swiftech, so I guess I'll shell out the extra $12 (after shipping difference added) to get them ASAP..


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> What about spinning the block 90 degrees?


i tried even worse...


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Grrr..... FCPU's 3/8x5/8 Lok-Seal fitting are a bit more than Swiftech's price ($6.99 vs.$4.99). I guess that's why they're the only ones with them in stock huh? LOL.
> 
> I got an email from Michelle saying ETA2-3 weeks for these from Swiftech, so I guess I'll shell out the extra $12 (after shipping difference added) to get them ASAP..


You do know about the OCN discount at frozencpu?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> You do know about the OCN discount at frozencpu?


Wow, theres a discount???!?


----------



## Phelan

5%; saved me $1.50..

Anywho, check out this beauty!



Looks way better without the sticker lol.


----------



## TeeBlack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> You do know about the OCN discount at frozencpu?


i dont remember but "xtreme" will give you 5.1% off and "pcapex" will give you 5% off. it aint much but its something.


----------



## kikibgd

here is how its standing not correct since my temps are not down



dont know what to do to bring it back or cut small piece in heat spreder... ?

EDIT: screws came in this condition as shown on the photo.


----------



## Agoniizing

I was told to come to this thread because I think my H220 pump isn't working correctly. I randomly checked my temps and they were around 40C idle. Then I ran prime95 just to see, and my temps reached high 90s. So I swapped out my H220 for my H100, and my temps were low again. Could my pump be clogged? If so, is there a way to unclog it?


----------



## kikibgd

i got the same problem i think its not seated property in my case..

push pull 100% fans and pump


----------



## blackend

I just got the swiftech h320


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> I just got the swiftech h320


Ballin!

Love to see some temps or a review if you could spare the time


----------



## blackend




----------



## Emu105

I have the nh 14d how much better will a h220 be ??


----------



## sgs2008

Hey kiki do you rly think the pump int hat position is bad. I have the exact same motherboard and my pump is in the same position and i thought my temps were relatively normal. with a 4770k at 4.4 ghz 1.285 vcore i was getting around 85 degrees max on prime and right now im running 1.330 vore for 4.5ghz didnt run prime for more than a few minutes cause the temps hit like 95+ but playing games and just using it normally I havent had a BSOD so im leaving it for now. If you get much better temps by moving your pump around i might try it myself.


----------



## Avonosac

The question I have for the 2 guys with the MPower z87 board... does anything look like it touches the block or any of the extensions in a way which might hold up that section of the block? If you're getting exceptionally high idle temps, the pump is either dead or not seated correctly / well on the chip.

Also, from my experience with mITX boards, any time a cpu slot looks like its close to memory channels, it might be a better idea to use low profile / heat spreaderless memory DIMMs because they could cause seating issues for the cooler.


----------



## sgs2008

Only the tubing is against the VRM heatsink nothing seems to be obstructing the pump itself. I don't think its affecting my temps my idles around 37-39 degrees celsius.


----------



## kikibgd

no clearly it can not be oriented the way i done it, i will try in 1h to rebuild my rig and organize it better.
but its not sitting correct thats for sure since swivel fitting is pushing block to the right and then i cant screw the block correctly and its all tight, i will see maybe i cut some piece of heat spreader


----------



## sgs2008

It doesnt seem to be doing that to mine maybe im not looking that carefully. Let me know what happens if you do cut the spreader id be interested to know if you get much better temps.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> I have the nh 14d how much better will a h220 be ??


subjective to average ambient temperature


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> no clearly it can not be oriented the way i done it, i will try in 1h to rebuild my rig and organize it better.
> but its not sitting correct thats for sure since swivel fitting is pushing block to the right and then i cant screw the block correctly and its all tight, i will see maybe i cut some piece of heat spreader


I looked at the pictures of the screws that you have and they look perfectly good to me. Why do you think that they were used?


----------



## Watagump

Hurry, someone start the H320 club. I want this to be like high school, where I cant get in.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> You do know about the OCN discount at frozencpu?
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, theres a discount???!?
Click to expand...

Yea its OCN for 5.1% off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> here is how its standing not correct since my temps are not down
> 
> 
> 
> dont know what to do to bring it back or cut small piece in heat spreder... ?
> 
> EDIT: screws came in this condition as shown on the photo.


What about right side is it touching ram slot? If so I would turn it to the left 90degrees. That way if you have to mod the heatsink it would only be one side and not the heatsink and ram slot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> I was told to come to this thread because I think my H220 pump isn't working correctly. I randomly checked my temps and they were around 40C idle. Then I ran prime95 just to see, and my temps reached high 90s. So I swapped out my H220 for my H100, and my temps were low again. Could my pump be clogged? If so, is there a way to unclog it?


What overclock are you at? I have same board are you using the AI Suite?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i got the same problem i think its not seated property in my case..
> 
> push pull 100% fans and pump


Check the backplate and make sure that the screws all are out of the nuts the same distance, and that the back plate pieces are in the mounting holes and not caught on the lip.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> I have the nh 14d how much better will a h220 be ??


Roughly 10 degrees, depending on your ambient, overclock, how you set it up, and case air flow.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yea its OCN for 5.1% off.
> What about right side is it touching ram slot? If so I would turn it to the left 90degrees. That way if you have to mod the heatsink it would only be one side and not the heatsink and ram slot.
> What overclock are you at? I have same board are you using the AI Suite?
> Check the backplate and make sure that the screws all are out of the nuts the same distance, and that the back plate pieces are in the mounting holes and not caught on the lip.
> Roughly 10 degrees, depending on your ambient, overclock, how you set it up, and case air flow.


10 degrees? That's a pretty bold estimate.


----------



## Emu105

OK well in my room around 21c to 20°c HW monitor tells me inside my case air flow is 24°c so at 4.2 GHz of at 1.216 v core idle I get avg 35 c


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yea its OCN for 5.1% off.
> What about right side is it touching ram slot? If so I would turn it to the left 90degrees. That way if you have to mod the heatsink it would only be one side and not the heatsink and ram slot.
> What overclock are you at? I have same board are you using the AI Suite?
> Check the backplate and make sure that the screws all are out of the nuts the same distance, and that the back plate pieces are in the mounting holes and not caught on the lip.
> Roughly 10 degrees, depending on your ambient, overclock, how you set it up, and case air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 10 degrees? That's a pretty bold estimate.
Click to expand...

said roughly...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> OK well in my room around 21c to 20°c HW monitor tells me inside my case air flow is 24°c so at 4.2 GHz of at 1.216 v core idle I get avg 35 c


more important is load temps my guess 75 avg


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yea its OCN for 5.1% off.
> What about right side is it touching ram slot? If so I would turn it to the left 90degrees. That way if you have to mod the heatsink it would only be one side and not the heatsink and ram slot.
> What overclock are you at? I have same board are you using the AI Suite?
> Check the backplate and make sure that the screws all are out of the nuts the same distance, and that the back plate pieces are in the mounting holes and not caught on the lip.
> Roughly 10 degrees, depending on your ambient, overclock, how you set it up, and case air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 10 degrees? That's a pretty bold estimate.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> said roughly...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> OK well in my room around 21c to 20°c HW monitor tells me inside my case air flow is 24°c so at 4.2 GHz of at 1.216 v core idle I get avg 35 c
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> more important is load temps my guess 75 avg
Click to expand...

Ok load avg is 65c now i have a question core 0 and 1 are always 6c higher than core 2 and 3 why is that? My guess is maybe the thermal paste is having better contact with that part of the cpu?? if so i could even have lower temps? What you guys think?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Ok load avg is 65c now i have a question core 0 and 1 are always 6c higher than core 2 and 3 why is that? My guess is maybe the thermal paste is having better contact with that part of the cpu?? if so i could even have lower temps? What you guys think?


The best way to lower temps is delidding, its also a good way to equalize temps across the cores.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Yea its OCN for 5.1% off.
> 
> What about right side is it touching ram slot? If so I would turn it to the left 90degrees. That way if you have to mod the heatsink it would only be one side and not the heatsink and ram slot.
> 
> What overclock are you at? I have same board are you using the AI Suite?
> 
> Check the backplate and make sure that the screws all are out of the nuts the same distance, and that the back plate pieces are in the mounting holes and not caught on the lip.
> 
> Roughly 10 degrees, depending on your ambient, overclock, how you set it up, and case air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 10 degrees? That's a pretty bold estimate.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> said roughly...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> OK well in my room around 21c to 20°c HW monitor tells me inside my case air flow is 24°c so at 4.2 GHz of at 1.216 v core idle I get avg 35 c
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> more important is load temps my guess 75 avg
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok load avg is 65c now i have a question core 0 and 1 are always 6c higher than core 2 and 3 why is that? My guess is maybe the thermal paste is having better contact with that part of the cpu?? if so i could even have lower temps? What you guys think?
Click to expand...

Thats normal. I once had a 3570k with 10c difference on max core. This 3770k is only 7-8c on max core.

At 65c you may want to overclock to about 75c. I however overclock to 85c


----------



## Emu105

> Thats normal. I once had a 3570k with 10c difference on max core. This 3770k is only 7-8c on max core.
> 
> At 65c you may want to overclock to about 75c. I however overclock to 85c


Yeah i should try to push it but my only thing is one time i try doing the OC and played with offset and stuff i couldn't get a stable overclock at 4.2 so i tried auto v core and everything works fine at 1.216 i'll try to push it to 4.5ghz and see what my max vcore is and what my temps are around. Thanks!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Hurry, someone start the H320 club. I want this to be like high school, where I cant get in.


This is it, I just couldn't change the title for some reason last time I edited the OP. This club is for the H220, H320, and any other subsequent models with this particular pump/block combo.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Should be able to change title, if not ask a moderator?
Guess tags need changes too.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

should I switch out the tubes for white ones?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> should I switch out the tubes for white ones?


aesthetically, yes, I think the case needs a pinch of white for the more monochrome look


----------



## magicase

Should be tubes be vertical or horizontal in a normal case to get max cooling performance from the H220?


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> Should be tubes be vertical or horizontal in a normal case to get max cooling performance from the H220?


Either way, but I highly suggest putting the res of the rad as the highest point in the loop. Had to mod my case to do it.


----------



## Agoniizing

Does anyone know how to unclog a h220? I heard the OP knows how.


----------



## drnilly007

Dont think you can clog a h220 unless you put something weird in it...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Does anyone know how to unclog a h220? I heard the OP knows how.


How did mine was I drained it, disconnected the hoses at the radiator, then held each end one at a time to the kitchen faucet and ran water through it with the other end draining in the sink. By doing this you are essentially backflushing it, which should get out the debris. You can afterward disconnect the hoses from the pump and connect them to the rad and do the same thing just in case. Each time I ran water, I did so for about 30 sec.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Does anyone know how to unclog a h220? I heard the OP knows how.
> 
> 
> 
> How did mine was I drained it, disconnected the hoses at the radiator, then held each end one at a time to the kitchen faucet and ran water through it with the other end draining in the sink. By doing this you are essentially backflushing it, which should get out the debris. You can afterward disconnect the hoses from the pump and connect them to the rad and do the same thing just in case. Each time I ran water, I did so for about 30 sec.
Click to expand...

If you gonna tell him how to drain it, please give details...

You can re-use the same coolant just use a coffee filter to catch debris which at most is little small black pieces from the tubing.
Follow above instructions.
Fill with coolant. Top off with some distilled.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> I just got the swiftech h320


Since it is not available until August 23, tell me how you accomplished that?


----------



## drnilly007

It got released in other countries due to overstock from not being able to be sold in the US, educated guess.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> i dont remember but "xtreme" will give you 5.1% off and "pcapex" will give you 5% off. it aint much but its something.


except that supports those sites and ocn supports this one .....


----------



## Avonosac

Finally got around to opening up my second H220 (one of the original shipment, lol) got my 580 block cleaned of all the corrosion crap. Leak testing the block to make sure everything is ok.. then I'll put the loop together on my 955be and throw it all in my brand new Arc Midi R2 Mid tower.. which is so much overkill for a server.. its great


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> It got released in other countries due to overstock from not being able to be sold in the US, educated guess.


So if that were the case why would Canada, NCIX, have to wait untilAugust 23 for availability? Something seems strange here. can Brian explain please? I would like my product now also.


----------



## Mega Man

dude what dont you understand they ARE NOT selling it in the us.... period.

and expect it to be out of stock.... for a while.. this has been much waited for.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dude what dont you understand they ARE NOT selling it in the us.... period.
> 
> and expect it to be out of stock.... for a while.. this has been much waited for.


You completely misunderstand. I will order through NCIX Canada. They on their website are only taking preorders. They estimate availability August 23. Now tell me I don't know what I am talking about. I have been waiting since February for this.
I am not the new kid on the block.


----------



## Mega Man

ok i am sorry

either way how many preorders are in front of you ?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok i am sorry
> 
> either way how many preorders are in front of you ?


I do not know I have no intention of getting on a line to preorder this. I never liked that method. I think Iphone users are idiots to do it. I was willing to wait. I wonder what country thst fellow who got it is from. I am hoping the H320 will not have the same level of demand as the H220 as not as many people have the room in their cases for a 360mm radiator. It surprises me that Gabe would have the product shipped to Europe first over Canada, as all the pent up demand from US customers who could order through Canada.


----------



## BenchAndGames

The Swiftech H220 / H320 not sold more in the U.S.A., a patent infringement.

In Europe the H320 is already available in some countries, I already I have commissioned, and next week has to come to my house.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> The Swiftech H220 / H320 not sold more in the U.S.A., a patent infringement *claim has been filed*.
> 
> In Europe the H320 is already available in some countries, I already I have commissioned, and next week has to come to my house.


FYP. They don't want to fight it in court, because A) they can't make enough to sell elsewhere.. and B) CM is already going to beat the patent, so they won't have to.


----------



## Duke976

Using H220 is getting scarier and scarier for me, the 1st problem that i had was back in May were the pump was emitting to much noise. Now as i was using my computer, it shut down on its own. So i opened up my computer and to my dismayed, the pump was leaking from all sides. You can see from the pictures that i have taken.





Never experienced this such of a hassle before with my previous water cooling set up.


----------



## Xemption

I've just been setting up my h220 in my bitfenix and it has been the most frustrating experience.

My idle temps are at 55... I thought it might be because the tube was too curved so i held it out of the case so they were straight but no difference. I've remounted the thing twice and I'm still getting 55degrees.

I have a corsair 650 watt psu, could that be the reason why? I have a single card 7970 gfx.

Is there a chance I have to drain it?

Please help, this has really turned me off on water cooling and i was so excited T_T


----------



## Duke976

Here's the last one that i took when i removed it completely from my pc.


----------



## magicase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Either way, but I highly suggest putting the res of the rad as the highest point in the loop. Had to mod my case to do it.


I'm planning to put it at the bottom of my case as that's the only spot I can put it. Why exactly do you put the rad as the highest point in the loop?


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> You completely misunderstand. I will order through NCIX Canada. They on their website are only taking preorders. They estimate availability August 23. Now tell me I don't know what I am talking about. I have been waiting since February for this.
> I am not the new kid on the block.


Maybe not, but the US is not the centre of the earth, other countries can have stock before the US once in awhile. If it's that much of an issue get one from the UK or another country that has stock.

UK sites
Amazon
Specialtek
ebay

All have stock of the H220 and H320.


----------



## tw33k

Just got an email saying my H320 will ship on 21/8. Awesome.


----------



## Emu105

any website where they ship to the us?? and in stock?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> any website where they ship to the us?? and in stock?


both the h220 and h320 in stock here in the uk

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/home.php

says they ship world wide

though dont know how much shipping will be and if any import tax will be due


----------



## AlDyer

Really sucks for Swiftech. These patents are often like this, unfortunately


----------



## magicase

How common is this leaking issue? I'm thinking of moving from my custom loop to the H220 because of space issues and the only thing I'm worried is all the people talking about their H220 leaking.


----------



## AlDyer

Mine doesn't leak wanna change?


----------



## Phelan

So far I've only heard about 5 or so that were leaking, and their initial shipment alone was 3,000 units, so I don't think leakage should be a major concern







.


----------



## Ragsters

I'm in the same boat as a lot of us OCN members here in the US. I too want an H320 and am willing to pay the shipping from out of country. Please post here when someone finds something with a shipping estimate.


----------



## WarpedMonkey

Might have been answered but didn't find anything definitive. Does anyone with any Z87 motherboard has installed the H220 in a W/E position? I want to know if it touches the ram slot or not. I was planning on buying normal ram (not low profile) but fear it will be blocked by the huge tubing. Thanks in advance.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'm in the same boat as a lot of us OCN members here in the US. I too want an H320 and am willing to pay the shipping from out of country. Please post here when someone finds something with a shipping estimate.


I can get it shipped to Colorado from specialtech for about $245.00. I would go custom loop at that cost.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> Might have been answered but didn't find anything definitive. Does anyone with any Z87 motherboard has installed the H220 in a W/E position? I want to know if it touches the ram slot or not. I was planning on buying normal ram (not low profile) but fear it will be blocked by the huge tubing. Thanks in advance.


really depends on your motherboard and ram profile, I have the H220 on a Z87 Sabertooth W/E direction and yes it slightly touches the 1st dim w/ corsair vengeance pro ram.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I'm planning to put it at the bottom of my case as that's the only spot I can put it. Why exactly do you put the rad as the highest point in the loop?


The rule is for the res. to be higher than the pump with fillcap up to bleed air properly. If you keep the cap up and mount it in the bottom with fillport up it will be able to bleed the air still so it should work. You could also add a small res. above the pump somewhere, if you can fit it in your case. Then feed the pump from this res.


----------



## WarpedMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> really depends on your motherboard and ram profile, I have the H220 on a Z87 Sabertooth W/E direction and yes it slightly touches the 1st dim w/ corsair vengeance pro ram.


I'm waiting for the Maximus VI Formula, so I asked the ASUS rep about clearance and he said: Same as any Z87 mobo. I'm fine with it pushing a bit the ram, just not blocking me from placing normal profile ram. Thanks btw for your answer.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I'm planning to put it at the bottom of my case as that's the only spot I can put it. Why exactly do you put the rad as the highest point in the loop?


You want a res above pump, to prevent bubbles into pump.
Check out this post to show you to add a 2nd res above pump.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club/4850_50#post_20414680
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> How common is this leaking issue? I'm thinking of moving from my custom loop to the H220 because of space issues and the only thing I'm worried is all the people talking about their H220 leaking.


I havent seem many that leaks. Any watercooling has risk of leaking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> Might have been answered but didn't find anything definitive. Does anyone with any Z87 motherboard has installed the H220 in a W/E position? I want to know if it touches the ram slot or not. I was planning on buying normal ram (not low profile) but fear it will be blocked by the huge tubing. Thanks in advance.


You get most that will slightly touch ram. What can be done is low profile or use only 2 sticks of larger ram. on Sabertooth it touches slightly on ran, maybe about 1-2mm.
The MSI M power has issues with the mosffets covers, as its too big and is closer to the cpu socket.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Using H220 is getting scarier and scarier for me, the 1st problem that i had was back in May were the pump was emitting to much noise. Now as i was using my computer, it shut down on its own. So i opened up my computer and to my dismayed, the pump was leaking from all sides. You can see from the pictures that i have taken.
> 
> Never experienced this such of a hassle before with my previous water cooling set up.


Hi Duke, I'm very surprised and quite shocked by this. This is the first instance that I've seen this type of a leak from these kits. The only thing that I can think of is that the o-ring must have failed. Like I said in my email to you. These kinds of leaks will usually occur in the first 24 hours of use and not after a month or more. This is extremely strange and we will definitely be replacing this for you.


----------



## AlDyer

Leaked from all sides, that is pretty hilarious and sad at the same time


----------



## Ryld Baenre

If the h320 is already available at euro retailers will it be available on the swiftech site soon or not until later in August?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> If the h320 is already available at euro retailers will it be available on the swiftech site soon or not until later in August?


Due to the patent infringement claim by Asetek, we won't be carrying these at all on our site.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the patent infringement claim by Asetek, we won't be carrying these at all on our site.


They are available for people outside the US tho, right?

EDIT: I just checked and both the H220 and H320 are listed but cannot be purchased. Why can't people outside the US still purchase from your site?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> They are available for people outside the US tho, right?
> 
> EDIT: I just checked and both the H220 and H320 are listed but cannot be purchased. Why can't people outside the US still purchase from your site?


Most likely cause the site is in the U.S where they can no longer sell them due to the current issues.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Most likely cause the site is in the U.S where they can no longer sell them due to the current issues.


Yeah but they could easily remove the US from the options so others could buy it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Yeah but they could easily remove the US from the options so others could buy it


We don't normally sell any of our products outside of the U.S., so I don't think we're about to start with these particular products.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't normally sell any of our products outside of the U.S., so I don't think we're about to start with these particular products.


If that's the case why are there options for different countries in the checkout?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> If the h320 is already available at euro retailers will it be available on the swiftech site soon or not until later in August?


Get it from ncix.ca the Canadian website of NCIX. It will be available in Canada 8/23/13. They are taking preorders right now. I paid up front and I am the only one in the que right now. I live in New York and they are charging $13 for shipping, which is not bad.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> They are available for people outside the US tho, right?
> 
> EDIT: I just checked and both the H220 and H320 are listed but cannot be purchased. Why can't people outside the US still purchase from your site?


Like I just posted get it from ncix.ca . They are a major Canadian computer retailer . It will be available by 8/23/13 and they are taking preorders now. I am the only one who has purchased right now so there is not a long line.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> If that's the case why are there options for different countries in the checkout?


This is so that we can direct them to our resellers in their region.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Like I just posted get it from ncix.ca . They are a major Canadadian computer retailer . It will be available by 8/23/13 adn they are taking preorders now. I am the only one who has purchased right now so there is not a long line.


I already have mine ordered (I'm in Australia)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is so that we can direct them to our resellers in their region.


That clears that up then. Thanks


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemption*
> 
> I've just been setting up my h220 in my bitfenix and it has been the most frustrating experience.
> 
> My idle temps are at 55... I thought it might be because the tube was too curved so i held it out of the case so they were straight but no difference. I've remounted the thing twice and I'm still getting 55degrees.
> 
> I have a corsair 650 watt psu, could that be the reason why? I have a single card 7970 gfx.
> 
> Is there a chance I have to drain it?
> 
> Please help, this has really turned me off on water cooling and i was so excited T_T


You do know you have to mod under the motherboard where the back bracket is for the H220 to mount properly in prodigy case...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Either way, but I highly suggest putting the res of the rad as the highest point in the loop. Had to mod my case to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to put it at the bottom of my case as that's the only spot I can put it. Why exactly do you put the rad as the highest point in the loop?
Click to expand...

As other have said so any air bubbles can be trapped away from the flow of water and not pulled into the pump which is the cause of noisy units.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I'm planning to put it at the bottom of my case as that's the only spot I can put it. Why exactly do you put the rad as the highest point in the loop?
> 
> 
> 
> The rule is for the res. to be higher than the pump with fillcap up to bleed air properly. If you keep the cap up and mount it in the bottom with fillport up it will be able to bleed the air still so it should work. You could also add a small res. above the pump somewhere, if you can fit it in your case. *Then feed the pump from this res*.
Click to expand...

Bad! Slap your hand. In the expansion video for in the OP it says to keep the inlet for the pump the same on the radiator as you received it.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> You do know you have to mod under the motherboard where the back bracket is for the H220 to mount properly in prodigy case...
> As other have said so any air bubbles can be trapped away from the flow of water and not pulled into the pump which is the cause of noisy units.
> Bad! Slap your hand. In the expansion video for in the OP it says to keep the inlet for the pump the same on the radiator as you received it.


I didn't mod mine :O


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

So i've had the pump running at 3k rpm. and decided to drop it down to 1800 rpm last night, but seeing no temp difference. Is having at 3k rpm more for when you add on gpu blocks and stuff?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> So i've had the pump running at 3k rpm. and decided to drop it down to 1800 rpm last night, but seeing no temp difference. Is having at 3k rpm more for when you add on gpu blocks and stuff?


I think its for someone who is deaf.


----------



## Avonosac

Flow increase doesn't decrease temps all that much, if at all. Once you have sufficient flow, you pretty much only increase noise. As you suggested, the only reason to need to raise the pump speed is to add more to the loop. The included PWM header is great, but has the unfortunate side effect of making your pump run at full as well, when you really just want your fans to run at full.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Here's the last one that i took when i removed it completely from my pc.


Every single one of these units is powered on and leak tested for 24 hours straight .. no exceptions.. Was this a new unit?


----------



## Avonosac

I'm wondering why that plastic looks so discolored..


----------



## Brennan Hodges

I like how he took the picture of a defective h220 on top of a h100 box. and yea that plastic looks messed up


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Every single one of these units is powered on and leak tested for 24 hours straight .. no exceptions.. Was this a new unit?


That was the replacement unit that i recieved from your company last month, it was tested and hand picked by bryan. Original date of purchased of my unit was May 2013 at frozencpu.com


----------



## [email protected]

Just released


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Bad! Slap your hand. In the expansion video for in the OP it says to keep the inlet for the pump the same on the radiator as you received it.


That just means do not put the pump
directly after another component in your loop like the graphics block if you have one. The main point is to always feed the pump from a res. because of the airtrap in the res. It's not as if they fill the original with fairy dust before shipping it, you can use something else if you'd like.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> That was the replacement unit that i recieved from your company last month, it was tested and hand picked by bryan. Original date of purchased of my unit was May 2013 at frozencpu.com


We'll be sending out your replacement today. Can you please email me and confirm your shipping address?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We'll be sending out your replacement today. Can you please email me and confirm your shipping address?


I will send you an email right now. The address is still the same like last time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> I will send you an email right now. The address is still the same like last time.


Got it and already packed it up. Just waiting for UPS to pick it up.


----------



## Watagump

Bram, since you are not allowed to SELL the H320 here in the states. I have decided to let you GIVE me one.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Bram, since you are not allowed to SELL the H320 here in the states. I have decided to let you GIVE me one.


That's funny!


----------



## Phelan

In the meantime, could you offer an option on your site to buy the MCR320-QP-RES rev 2 in H320 form, with the swivel barbs, in case some of your US H220 owners need the versatility of the barb fittings? I realize only a handful of people likely would want/need this, but it could be a viable option.


----------



## Phelan

For the record, I do not need one, just thought it might help.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Bram, since you are not allowed to SELL the H320 here in the states. I have decided to let you GIVE me one.


I propose a giveaway of couple units per retailer . That should further stimulate demand and give Swiftech very good PR.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

so swiftech's fluid is sold out everywhere. what is the next best thing to run into the h220? (coolant)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> so swiftech's fluid is sold out everywhere. what is the next best thing to run into the h220? (coolant)


You can use our green HydrX PM coolant. It pretty much has the same properties, it's just a different color and a little thinner of a coolant. It will work just fine in these kits though.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can use our green HydrX PM coolant. It pretty much has the same properties, it's just a different color and a little thinner of a coolant. It will work just fine in these kits though.


i just bought some alphacool water. clear is my preference


----------



## sgs2008

Can anyone running an oced 4770k with more than 1.25 vcore post their temps please?


----------



## asus3571

Well got both H220's installed. One on a z87 Pro and 4770k the other on a z77xud5h and 2700k I gotta say I love this thing and temps are far better than exscpected. but now for the gripes. I hopw swiftech listens. On both coolers the damn retaineing washers that keeps the screws on kept falling off. Install was very frustrateing. Mounting system imo is not very good as far as quality. Like noctuas backplate was a real pain to align as the nuts keps moveing. Xplate should have clear markings for scocket backplate sticky tape wouldnt hold on either kept popping out mis aligned. I used mx4 on the 2700k got much better temps then timmate, but I wouldnt trade this thing for anything my temps on the [email protected] 4.7 are 29cidle in BIOS. Right now Realtemp say my cores are fluctuating between 31c to 34 loaded up with ibt it obly hits bout 59c on the hottest core this thing is badass but for mounting thats it. Oh and its dead silent.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> Well got both H220's installed. One on a z87 Pro and 4770k the other on a z77xud5h and 2700k I gotta say I love this thing and temps are far better than exscpected. but now for the gripes. I hopw swiftech listens. On both coolers the damn retaineing washers that keeps the screws on kept falling off. Install was very frustrateing. Mounting system imo is not very good as far as quality. Like noctuas backplate was a real pain to align as the nuts keps moveing. Xplate should have clear markings for scocket backplate sticky tape wouldnt hold on either kept popping out mis aligned. I used mx4 on the 2700k got much better temps then timmate, but I wouldnt trade this thing for anything my temps on the [email protected] 4.7 are 29cidle in BIOS. Right now Realtemp say my cores are fluctuating between 31c to 34 loaded up with ibt it obly hits bout 59c on the hottest core this thing is badass but for mounting thats it. Oh and its dead silent.


If you want to retype that without caps then more people will read it, but as of now it just hurts my eyes


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> Well got both H220's installed. One on a z87 Pro and 4770k the other on a z77xud5h and 2700k I gotta say I love this thing and temps are far better than exscpected. but now for the gripes. I hopw swiftech listens. On both coolers the damn retaineing washers that keeps the screws on kept falling off. Install was very frustrateing. Mounting system imo is not very good as far as quality. Like noctuas backplate was a real pain to align as the nuts keps moveing. Xplate should have clear markings for scocket backplate sticky tape wouldnt hold on either kept popping out mis aligned. I used mx4 on the 2700k got much better temps then timmate, but I wouldnt trade this thing for anything my temps on the [email protected] 4.7 are 29cidle in BIOS. Right now Realtemp say my cores are fluctuating between 31c to 34 loaded up with ibt it obly hits bout 59c on the hottest core this thing is badass but for mounting thats it. Oh and its dead silent.


Actually mounting it is quite easy, done it about 10 times. You have to first get one screw started then the one opposite of that get those two about halfway with the sliding things on the back into the holes on the mobo then do the other 2 and it's easy as pie from there. Just gotta make sure those sliding things on the back get into the mobo holes to avoid _possible_ damage to mobo.


----------



## Wasupwitdat1

Everyone wanting to support Swiftech is all well and good but I'd stay away from their 90* Rotary fittings. I recently bought four of these and they all drip at the rotation point. I ended up with stains from the die in my case where the leak happened.


----------



## dansi

http://www.techpowerup.com/187878/asus-introduces-maximus-vi-formula-z87-gaming-motherboard.html

Asus Z87 with hybrid water cooling on the mosfets...do you think H220 is good for this expansion?


----------



## savagepagan

Cooler Master Eisberg Solo Prestige Water Block w/ Intergrated Pump is actually sold separately for $90. Could be a alternative if your Swiftech h220 pump has failed and you can not get it replaced?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18955/ex-wat-246/Cooler_Master_Eisberg_Solo_Prestige_Water_Block_w_Intergrated_Pump_RL-EBSL-FLNN-R1.html


----------



## sch010

Anybody have a suggestion about where outside the US I could easily order an H220? Predictably I only became interested in it the day after they halted US sales.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

anyone know why they stopped selling the h220 in US?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> anyone know why they stopped selling the h220 in US?


Patent issues with Asetek.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> *CLAIMED* Patent issues with Asetek.


Fixed that for ya


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Cooler Master Eisberg Solo Prestige Water Block w/ Intergrated Pump is actually sold separately for $90. Could be a alternative if your Swiftech h220 pump has failed and you can not get it replaced?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18955/ex-wat-246/Cooler_Master_Eisberg_Solo_Prestige_Water_Block_w_Intergrated_Pump_RL-EBSL-FLNN-R1.html


Possibly, except that anyone who buys an h220 direct from from one of Swiftech's authorized retailers will have a warrantee with Swiftech and a replacement available. Even if not, I would be surprised if Swiftech didn't offer help in some fashion, such step by step advice on what to check and how to fix it, cleaning services, or something.


----------



## gdubc

Man that Eisberg is ugly tho.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Cooler Master Eisberg Solo Prestige Water Block w/ Intergrated Pump is actually sold separately for $90. Could be a alternative if your Swiftech h220 pump has failed and you can not get it replaced?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18955/ex-wat-246/Cooler_Master_Eisberg_Solo_Prestige_Water_Block_w_Intergrated_Pump_RL-EBSL-FLNN-R1.html


How could it be an alternative for an existing system when the tubing is of a different caliber?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> How could it be an alternative for an existing system when the tubing is of a different caliber?


This is a good point also, although you could change the fittings on the eisberg to some 3/8" barbs or 3/8x5/8" compression fittings to fit.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Cooler Master Eisberg Solo Prestige Water Block w/ Intergrated Pump is actually sold separately for $90. Could be a alternative if your Swiftech h220 pump has failed and you can not get it replaced?


What about an Apogee Drive II?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> What about an Apogee Drive II?


The APD2 would be my first choice. I'mn actually thinking of swithcing from my H220 back to one so I can use compression fittings all around.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The APD2 would be my first choice. I'mn actually thinking of swithcing from my H220 back to one so I can use compression fittings all around.


Minus the fittings on the stock H220 rad.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Minus the fittings on the stock H220 rad.


If I go Xfire or SLI in my custom case I'll have to ditch the 240 anyway, as it sits just under the top GPU, with my PSU in front.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If I go Xfire or SLI in my custom case I'll have to ditch the 240 anyway, as it sits just under the top GPU, with my PSU in front.


Then you would no longer even have the H220.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Then you would no longer even have the H220.


True, but I could still vouch for its epic-ness







. I used to have an Apogee Drive 2 and originally planned on using it for this build, until the H220 came out. I wanted it because I knew it was awesome, sufficient for my build, and would look sweet in it. For now I'm still using the H220. Just thinking of going back to the APD2 in the future so I can hardpipe all the lines in acrylic












Interesting note- The mobo the H220 is on is new; I returned the mobo that the APD2 is on there.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> True, but I could still vouch for its epic-ness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I used to have an Apogee Drive 2 and originally planned on using it for this build, until the H220 came out. I wanted it because I knew it was awesome, sufficient for my build, and would look sweet in it. For now I'm still using the H220. Just thinking of going back to the APD2 in the future so I can hardpipe all the lines in acrylic


Get rid of that hideous case, no one buys WHITE.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Get rid of that hideous case, no one buys WHITE.


Gonna paint it when I'm done modding it







. I DID CUT 5.125" in height and 3" in length out of it...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> True, but I could still vouch for its epic-ness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I used to have an Apogee Drive 2 and originally planned on using it for this build, until the H220 came out. I wanted it because I knew it was awesome, sufficient for my build, and would look sweet in it. For now I'm still using the H220. Just thinking of going back to the APD2 in the future so I can hardpipe all the lines in acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting note- The mobo the H220 is on is new; I returned the mobo that the APD2 is on there.


Interesting image, I see a couple of sylus, a walmart receipt and even a clothes pin.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Gonna paint it when I'm done modding it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I DID CUT 5.125" in height and 3" in length out of it...


What color? My Phantom is my 1st white case and I love it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Interesting image, I see a couple of sylus, a walmart receipt and even a clothes pin.


Thank my wife for that


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What color? My Phantom is my 1st white case and I love it.


That's classified...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Thank my wife for that


Okay, tell her a total stranger on these forums says thank you.


----------



## Phelan

LMAO


----------



## Watagump

I will go with you painting it red, its already white. You have a red mobo, and black cases are a dime a dozen.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Patent issues with Asetek.


What affect will this have on US sales of the H320?
Never mind. I did a search and there will not by any sales of the H320 in the US.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> What affect will this have on US sales of the H320?


The H320 is also affected, and will not be available for purchase in the states at this time. You can still purchase it from an overseas vendor, like NCIX Canada, and have them ship it to you.


----------



## Turt1e

Remounting the backplate is a pain, especially since the adhesive doesn't stick well after you take it off and the standoffs are hard to put in place for 115X sockets.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The H320 is also affected, and will not be available for purchase in the states at this time. You can still purchase it from an overseas vendor, like NCIX Canada, and have them ship it to you.


Bah you stole my thunder/answer, just for that, you get rep.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Get rid of that hideous case, no one buys WHITE.


nah your wrong, only cool people buy white cases .......


----------



## blaze0079

if you import a h320 how would the warranty work? would i have to ship it back to where i import it from and what about if it leaks?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nah your wrong, only cool people buy white cases .......


Dont go saying that, you want other people to start buying them just to PRETEND to be cool like us?


----------



## Mega Man

LOL


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze0079*
> 
> if you import a h320 how would the warranty work? would i have to ship it back to where i import it from and what about if it leaks?


I would say no, Bram seems to handle the RMA's, but he would better answer this than me, so I could end up being wrong.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I would say no, Bram seems to handle the RMA's, but he would better answer this than me, so I could end up being wrong.


To my understanding, and having dealt with Swiftech's RMA process before, you will be RMA'ing directly to Swiftech in LA.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> To my understanding, and having dealt with Swiftech's RMA process before, you will be RMA'ing directly to Swiftech in LA.


Thats the feeling I get from Bram posting here.


----------



## byomes

So I think my block is done for... My h220 was one of the first batches made and ran flawlessly since its first release. I don't hear or feel the motor running and I'm pretty sure all connections are correct because I haven't made my changes since the first install. What to do...


----------



## TheEnergy

Just an update from myself regarding the "CPU Fan Error" and RMA process for the H220 via Swiftech:

Well, first of all the RMA process is smooth. The reps here are great.

Regarding the CPU Fan Error or "dead pumps" on these forums, I just want to STRONGLY advise anyone recieving this message, especially if you are on an ASUS motherboard, to please, go into your BIOS and check the CPU RPM Lowest state.

On the asus boards, it defaults to 600RPM. But for some reason, sometimes the fan/pump may not hit this required RPM and that is what seems to trigger the "CPU Fan Error" message that may have you thinking your pump is dead.

I ended up ordering a NZXT Kraken x60 and had the same message I had on my swiftech h220 and thought "there's no way!" so I went into the BIOS and lowered the RPM to 200 (or you can even disable this feature!), and presto, the computer booted up fine with no "CPU fan error".

Temperatures were in the 30C's and the NZXT software showed the fans/pump were in fact working.

So just want to give a heads up, because the amount of dead pumps may just be a result of faulty BIOS settings/configurations per different motherboards. Maybe Swiftech will read this and can modify so they don't get so many RMA's.

And if I knew this before hand, I would have just kept my H220 and never got the kraken x60







though the kraken x60 performs very close


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The H320 is also affected, and will not be available for purchase in the states at this time. You can still purchase it from an overseas vendor, like NCIX Canada, and have them ship it to you.


Canada is hardly overseas. Bone up on your geography.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Canada is hardly overseas. Bone up on your geography.


What if someone lives in Hawaii?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What if someone lives in Hawaii?


Touche!


----------



## byomes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just an update from myself regarding the "CPU Fan Error" and RMA process for the H220 via Swiftech:
> 
> Well, first of all the RMA process is smooth. The reps here are great.
> 
> Regarding the CPU Fan Error or "dead pumps" on these forums, I just want to STRONGLY advise anyone recieving this message, especially if you are on an ASUS motherboard, to please, go into your BIOS and check the CPU RPM Lowest state.
> 
> On the asus boards, it defaults to 600RPM. But for some reason, sometimes the fan/pump may not hit this required RPM and that is what seems to trigger the "CPU Fan Error" message that may have you thinking your pump is dead.
> 
> I ended up ordering a NZXT Kraken x60 and had the same message I had on my swiftech h220 and thought "there's no way!" so I went into the BIOS and lowered the RPM to 200 (or you can even disable this feature!), and presto, the computer booted up fine with no "CPU fan error".
> 
> Temperatures were in the 30C's and the NZXT software showed the fans/pump were in fact working.
> 
> So just want to give a heads up, because the amount of dead pumps may just be a result of faulty BIOS settings/configurations per different motherboards. Maybe Swiftech will read this and can modify so they don't get so many RMA's.
> 
> And if I knew this before hand, I would have just kept my H220 and never got the kraken x60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though the kraken x60 performs very close


Just tried changing the CPU RPM LOWEST STATE to 200 and ignore but block still fails to run. Also tried relocating the plug from CPU_FAN to CPU_OPT & as a chassis fan but no luck. Shook the desktop around a couple times but it seems its not a debris issue too. I guess it's time for an RMA. I thought I was really lucky with mine because there were a lot of pump issues with the first released batch.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What if someone lives in Hawaii?


The guy asking was from North Carolina? Braincheck? LOL:thumb:


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Canada is hardly overseas. Bone up on your geography.


Touché; just bad wording on my part, hardly a big deal, since people get the idea. But I should have said other countries. I do know where Canada is at







. In my defense, I was using Canada as an example of a few countries one could order from, and any of the other countries ARE overseas..


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Remounting the backplate is a pain, especially since the adhesive doesn't stick well after you take it off and the standoffs are hard to put in place for 115X sockets.


i cannot agree more, but on the other hand its not so sticky like corsair one witch will take some pulling to take off.
i believe they can improve mounting kit much much more


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Remounting the backplate is a pain, especially since the adhesive doesn't stick well after you take it off and the standoffs are hard to put in place for 115X sockets.
> 
> 
> 
> i cannot agree more, but on the other hand its not so sticky like corsair one witch will take some pulling to take off.
> i believe they can improve mounting kit much much more
Click to expand...

Mounting kit is easy.


----------



## extreme-oc

Hello!...









I found available for purchase the new H320 here:

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-18387.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just an update from myself regarding the "CPU Fan Error" and RMA process for the H220 via Swiftech:
> 
> Well, first of all the RMA process is smooth. The reps here are great.
> 
> Regarding the CPU Fan Error or "dead pumps" on these forums, I just want to STRONGLY advise anyone recieving this message, especially if you are on an ASUS motherboard, to please, go into your BIOS and check the CPU RPM Lowest state.
> 
> On the asus boards, it defaults to 600RPM. But for some reason, sometimes the fan/pump may not hit this required RPM and that is what seems to trigger the "CPU Fan Error" message that may have you thinking your pump is dead.
> 
> I ended up ordering a NZXT Kraken x60 and had the same message I had on my swiftech h220 and thought "there's no way!" so I went into the BIOS and lowered the RPM to 200 (or you can even disable this feature!), and presto, the computer booted up fine with no "CPU fan error".
> 
> Temperatures were in the 30C's and the NZXT software showed the fans/pump were in fact working.
> 
> So just want to give a heads up, because the amount of dead pumps may just be a result of faulty BIOS settings/configurations per different motherboards. Maybe Swiftech will read this and can modify so they don't get so many RMA's.
> 
> And if I knew this before hand, I would have just kept my H220 and never got the kraken x60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though the kraken x60 performs very close


Thank you for posting this and this should also go in the OP. I've had several of these issues and many of them do appear to be related to a BIOS issue. +Rep.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> Hello!...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found available for purchase the new H320 here:
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-18387.html


If that had fit into my haf xm I would have got that, but more than happy with the H220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> So I think my block is done for... My h220 was one of the first batches made and ran flawlessly since its first release. I don't hear or feel the motor running and I'm pretty sure all connections are correct because I haven't made my changes since the first install. What to do...


PM me and I'll help you get this kit replaced. Don't worry though, we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze0079*
> 
> if you import a h320 how would the warranty work? would i have to ship it back to where i import it from and what about if it leaks?


If you're in the US (this includes Hawaii and Alaska) or Canada, we'll handle the RMA process at our Long Beach HQ.


----------



## extreme-oc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> If that had fit into my haf xm I would have got that, but more than happy with the H220.


I think can be mounted on a HAF 932.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

h320 can be mounted in the haf 932 if you remove the power lid/accessory storage shroud on the top of the case, and expose the 4 mounting holes. It looks really ugly though because the airflow from that 1 120m mount is basically useless when you put the shroud back on

It was my old case at one point.

I make love to my 800D now though


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> I think can be mounted on a HAF 932.


Yeah but preferred the look of the XM and never intended to go down the AIO line.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byomes*
> 
> Just tried changing the CPU RPM LOWEST STATE to 200 and ignore but block still fails to run. Also tried relocating the plug from CPU_FAN to CPU_OPT & as a chassis fan but no luck. Shook the desktop around a couple times but it seems its not a debris issue too. I guess it's time for an RMA. I thought I was really lucky with mine because there were a lot of pump issues with the first released batch.


Ah I see.

But atleast you troubleshooted to make sure it wasn't anything else.

Did you by any chance have the CPU fan/pump running at "standard" or "turbo"?

Mine was running at turbo and I was informed by the swiftech rep taht a few other people who had Asus boards ran at this setting and their pumps died.

BTW, Try disabling the Minimum RPM all together just make sure it says "disabled" please, I'm curiosu to know if that will change anything.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> i cannot agree more, but on the other hand its not so sticky like corsair one witch will take some pulling to take off.
> i believe they can improve mounting kit much much more


The corsair mounting kits/NZXT (rebranded Asatek?) are the best IMHO.

What makes them the best, is the fact that the backplate sticks on the back, then a thumb screw, screws down into it, before placing the block on.

Thus, the backplate is secure 100% and all you have to worry about is positioning and angling the CPU block on top of the CPU.

The worst I ever used was the Eisberg 240L from coolermaster, which was a disaster. It used plastic moutning pieces.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Ah I see.
> 
> But atleast you troubleshooted to make sure it wasn't anything else.
> 
> Did you by any chance have the CPU fan/pump running at "standard" or "turbo"?
> 
> Mine was running at turbo and I was informed by the swiftech rep taht a few other people who had Asus boards ran at this setting and their pumps died.
> 
> BTW, Try disabling the Minimum RPM all together just make sure it says "disabled" please, I'm curiosu to know if that will change anything.


all that setting does is WARN you that your cpu fan ( or w.e. fan you are changing ) is running below your specified RPM turbo is a fan profile the only way i can see that hurting the pump is if it is changing the rpms to quickly, but even that would be far fetched.


----------



## elricm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Just an update from myself regarding the "CPU Fan Error" and RMA process for the H220 via Swiftech:
> 
> Well, first of all the RMA process is smooth. The reps here are great.
> 
> Regarding the CPU Fan Error or "dead pumps" on these forums, I just want to STRONGLY advise anyone recieving this message, especially if you are on an ASUS motherboard, to please, go into your BIOS and check the CPU RPM Lowest state.
> 
> On the asus boards, it defaults to 600RPM. But for some reason, sometimes the fan/pump may not hit this required RPM and that is what seems to trigger the "CPU Fan Error" message that may have you thinking your pump is dead.
> 
> I ended up ordering a NZXT Kraken x60 and had the same message I had on my swiftech h220 and thought "there's no way!" so I went into the BIOS and lowered the RPM to 200 (or you can even disable this feature!), and presto, the computer booted up fine with no "CPU fan error".
> 
> Temperatures were in the 30C's and the NZXT software showed the fans/pump were in fact working.
> 
> So just want to give a heads up, because the amount of dead pumps may just be a result of faulty BIOS settings/configurations per different motherboards. Maybe Swiftech will read this and can modify so they don't get so many RMA's.


But not all. Once I got the CPU Fan Error, my CPU temps jumped to 60+ C at idle. My replacement should arrive tomorrow and the failed unit will go back so I'm curious what Swiftech finds.

I agree, the RMA process and reps have been great!


----------



## extreme-oc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> h320 can be mounted in the haf 932 if you remove the power lid/accessory storage shroud on the top of the case, and expose the 4 mounting holes. It looks really ugly though because the airflow from that 1 120m mount is basically useless when you put the shroud back on
> 
> It was my old case at one point.
> 
> I make love to my 800D now though


I remove 240 fan on the top for mount H220. So everything is already ok to mount H320. No problem.


----------



## Brennan Hodges

I received my H220 and my block (the part making contact with cpu) is all "scratched" looking. most blocks i see have almost mirror finish where as no matter how much i clean this it has a non perfect looking finish. Just wondering if this is normal or even matters


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> I received my H220 and my block (the part making contact with cpu) is all "scratched" looking. most blocks i see have almost mirror finish where as no matter how much i clean this it has a non perfect looking finish. Just wondering if this is normal or even matters


Pics would help. I have yet to get a perfect block on any AIO I have used.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> I received my H220 and my block (the part making contact with cpu) is all "scratched" looking. most blocks i see have almost mirror finish where as no matter how much i clean this it has a non perfect looking finish. Just wondering if this is normal or even matters


Don't know about performance difference after thermal paste but mine was like a mirror.


----------



## gdubc

I have had four all in ones and they were mirror finish.


----------



## Watagump

Maybe I have a higher standard of what a mirror finish is. Neither one of my H110 had one. I even took metal polish to the one I was returning to see how much better I could get it. The H220, did have a better finish than the H110's did, but I could still improve it.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Maybe I have a higher standard of what a mirror finish is. Neither one of my H110 had one. I even took metal polish to the one I was returning to see how much better I could get it. The H220, did have a better finish than the H110's did, but I could still improve it.


Mirror finish to me is like a mirror lol. No scratches or blemishes of any kind and no need to clean.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> Mirror finish to me is like a mirror lol. No scratches or blemishes of any kind and no need to clean.


Me too, so I have yet to own one.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Me too, so I have yet to own one.


I'm not going to argue over something so trivial so maybe I was lucky.............................


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> I'm not going to argue over something so trivial so maybe I was lucky.............................


Argue? I was agreeing with you.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Argue? I was agreeing with you.


Sorry misread what you typed. My mistake.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all that setting does is WARN you that your cpu fan ( or w.e. fan you are changing ) is running below your specified RPM turbo is a fan profile the only way i can see that hurting the pump is if it is changing the rpms to quickly, but even that would be far fetched.


Actually you're wrong.

If you have the CPU fan/pump booting up, and it does not HIT or MEET the specified minimum RPM set via the BIOS (in most ASUS boards case, 600RPM), the fan will fail to detect and the computer will not boot into windows.

That's why its imperative to lower the RPM or even disable it all together, and the fan will mostly likely be running perfectly.

Though, obviously in some cases, there will be legitmate dead pumps.

My NZXT Kraken x60 had the error message and so did my H220.

I never returned my h220, because I would have loved to test it out, because I never had the opporutunity at the time, only with my kraken x60.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all that setting does is WARN you that your cpu fan ( or w.e. fan you are changing ) is running below your specified RPM turbo is a fan profile the only way i can see that hurting the pump is if it is changing the rpms to quickly, but even that would be far fetched.


Actually you're wrong.

If you have the CPU fan/pump booting up, and it does not HIT or MEET the specified minimum RPM set via the BIOS (in most ASUS boards case, 600RPM), the fan will fail to detect and the computer will not boot into windows.

That's why its imperative to lower the RPM or even disable it all together, and the fan will mostly likely be running perfectly.

Though, obviously in some cases, there will be legitmate dead pumps.

My NZXT Kraken x60 had the error message and so did my H220.

I never returned my h220, because I would have loved to test it out, because I never had the opporutunity at the time, only with my kraken x60.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Actually you're wrong.
> 
> If you have the CPU fan/pump booting up, and it does not HIT or MEET the specified minimum RPM set via the BIOS (in most ASUS boards case, 600RPM), the fan will fail to detect and the computer will not boot into windows.
> 
> That's why its imperative to lower the RPM or even disable it all together, and the fan will mostly likely be running perfectly.
> 
> Though, obviously in some cases, there will be legitmate dead pumps.
> 
> My NZXT Kraken x60 had the error message and so did my H220.
> 
> I never returned my h220, because I would have loved to test it out, because I never had the opporutunity at the time, only with my kraken x60.


actually your wrong.

because i just said exactly what you said .

it WARNS you your cpu fan is not functioning. disable it at your own risk. the pump should never go below 600 rpm .... ever

i dunno about you but i want to be told if that dies....

if you want to disable it do so, but know you are playing with fire.

edit .PROOF
h220 pump speed range
Quote:


> Speed range 1200 ~ 3000 RPM


Source


----------



## Stablerage

If I set it to disable in bios on my asus board it would run at max.


----------



## John Freeman

What % performance increase could I see when swapping stock h220 fans with Noctua NF-F12's? Is the performance justifiable for the cost?


----------



## michael-ocn

So i started looking into what I could do to assemble an h220 like kit with individual components, along the lines of the H20-X20 kits.

The apogeedriveII looks like viable option (and its a step up from the h220 pump with a price reflects that). But I'm stymied on the radiator/res combo. The swiftech mcr20 line of radiators look close, but they're actually a bit longer then the rad that comes with the h220. I don't think any of them will fit in the midsize case I'd like to put things in (fractal arcmidi).

Kinda hoping swiftech will add the h220 rad/res to the product list as a standalone item. I think i'd be able to piece together the 2 piece cpu cooler that i'd like if that were the case. Having it be prefilled and come with fans already mounted is not important to me. The simpilicity of only 2 things being connected with tubes is what I'm looking for. That and a greater level of cooling performance at lower noise compared to the aluminum rad kits.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> What % performance increase could I see when swapping stock h220 fans with Noctua NF-F12's? Is the performance justifiable for the cost?


It depends on what you expect out of them. If you got a few degrees lower would that be worth it to you? Do you have to have the lowest temps? I spent the money on them myself, but in all honesty, I probably wouldn't do it again. For me, I don't need the lowest temps possible. Linus, swears by the Noctua's, yet other people swear by fans like the GT AP-15.


----------



## Mega Man

another great rad fan are these they are cheap too. loudish at 100% but that is why they have fan controllers/ mobos right ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> another great rad fan are these they are cheap too. loudish at 100% but that is why they have fan controllers/ mobos right ?


I cant express enough how happy I was getting my case knowing it had a built in fan controller.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> What % performance increase could I see when swapping stock h220 fans with Noctua NF-F12's? Is the performance justifiable for the cost?


I switched the stock h220 fans with nf f12 and have not seen any improvement. The hottest core still reaches 90C on my 3930k @ 4.8GHz. I have the rad on top of my cm storm trooper with fans above the rad pulling cooler outside air down inside my case.


----------



## Watagump

Here is what Linus got with his testing.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> What % performance increase could I see when swapping stock h220 fans with Noctua NF-F12's? Is the performance justifiable for the cost?


Not worth it by far.

Stick with the STOCK fans and get 2 more for push pull.

temps will be far better and you will pay less.

I made the mistake of paying 50$ for those NF-f12's and temps were very simliar to the stock helix fans, but for 50$.

completely not worth it.


----------



## John Freeman

ok well than my next question is is it even worth doing push pull? iv heard it is no different in any config from p/p just push or just pull temp wise, not to mention my mobo wont allow me to slap on 2 more fans (no clearance)


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> ok well than my next question is is it even worth doing push pull? iv heard it is no different in any config from p/p just push or just pull temp wise, not to mention my mobo wont allow me to slap on 2 more fans (no clearance)


I was in the same as you two weeks ago and after reading many opinions from OCN'ers I decided to ditch the idea of push/pull the current h220 rad and expand the h220 loop with two more 240mm rads ( alphacool nexxxos ut 60) with pull configuration only instead. I have all the parts to do it but havent had a chance to install it yet. I will post results in the next few days.


----------



## Mega Man

with thin rads you will see very little improvement using push pull then just push or pull.
with thick rads ( 60mm+) it is definitely worth looking in to

this is assuming you are using decent fans for rads of course .


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> ok well than my next question is is it even worth doing push pull? iv heard it is no different in any config from p/p just push or just pull temp wise, not to mention my mobo wont allow me to slap on 2 more fans (no clearance)


I didn't gain anything trying push/pull on my H220.


----------



## svburton

Hello everyone, I have a quick question. I am about to purchase an H220 HD Edge and I was wondering how one goes about getting the AMD hardware for the installation. I haven't been able to ferret that bit of info out and I wanted to know how before I make the purchase. I appreciate everything and have enjoyed reading through the thread.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> Hello everyone, I have a quick question. I am about to purchase an H220 HD Edge and I was wondering how one goes about getting the AMD hardware for the installation. I haven't been able to ferret that bit of info out and I wanted to know how before I make the purchase. I appreciate everything and have enjoyed reading through the thread.


http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1849/1/
Down the list You will see free upon request. Hope this helps.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> Hello everyone, I have a quick question. I am about to purchase an H220 HD Edge and I was wondering how one goes about getting the AMD hardware for the installation. I haven't been able to ferret that bit of info out and I wanted to know how before I make the purchase. I appreciate everything and have enjoyed reading through the thread.


Separate AMD hold-down plate & mounting hardware not included in the kit and supplied for free upon request - Compatible with: sockets 754, 939, 940, AM2, AM3, 770, F, FM1


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> Hello everyone, I have a quick question. I am about to purchase an H220 HD Edge and I was wondering how one goes about getting the AMD hardware for the installation. I haven't been able to ferret that bit of info out and I wanted to know how before I make the purchase. I appreciate everything and have enjoyed reading through the thread.


The H2O-X20 Edge you have to make sure you have the room to fit in your case. It is due to the extra length of the added pump.


----------



## svburton

So how does one request the AMD mounting hardware?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> So how does one request the AMD mounting hardware?


Contact Swiftech, or wherever you are buying it from.


----------



## svburton

I think I gotch ya. Place the order then email the vendor with the order number so they can add the hardware in. Thanks.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> I think I gotch ya. Place the order then email the vendor with the order number so they can add the hardware in. Thanks.


I would contact them before ordering, make sure they have it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> So how does one request the AMD mounting hardware?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svburton*
> 
> I think I gotch ya. Place the order then email the vendor with the order number so they can add the hardware in. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I would contact them before ordering, make sure they have it.


to my knowledge venders do not stock it you have to ask [email protected] (iirc) or you can email the support email from Their web site to save time I would tell them you need the and mounting bracket and you will need to send them a copy of the invoice and where you bought it from


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to my knowledge venders do not stock it you have to ask [email protected] (iirc) or you can email the support email from Their web site to save time I would tell them you need the and mounting bracket and you will need to send them a copy of the invoice and where you bought it from


This is correct.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> If I set it to disable in bios on my asus board it would run at max.


Yup same here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> What % performance increase could I see when swapping stock h220 fans with Noctua NF-F12's? Is the performance justifiable for the cost?
> 
> 
> 
> I switched the stock h220 fans with nf f12 and have not seen any improvement. The hottest core still reaches 90C on my 3930k @ 4.8GHz. I have the rad on top of my cm storm trooper with fans above the rad pulling cooler outside air down inside my case.
Click to expand...

Yeah realistically the helix fans perform well and are not loud, so I ordered 2 more for second rad.


----------



## mcnumpty23

just ordered the h320

any one know if i can leave my h80 back plate in place and mount it to that?

or do i need to remove it and use the swiftech back plate


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> just ordered the h320
> 
> any one know if i can leave my h80 back plate in place and mount it to that?
> 
> or do i need to remove it and use the swiftech back plate


Well most likely remove it, but depends on the chipset. My x79 just screws right into the onboard cpu bracket


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well most likely remove it, but depends on the chipset. My x79 just screws right into the onboard cpu bracket


z68 chipset

just thought if the corsair backplate would work it might be easier to leave it there

last time i tried to take an h50 backplate off it was severely stuck on there with the sticky pads and i had to use a lot of force to get it off


----------



## Phelan

The corsair backplate will work fine; it's been done before.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> z68 chipset
> 
> just thought if the corsair backplate would work it might be easier to leave it there
> 
> last time i tried to take an h50 backplate off it was severely stuck on there with the sticky pads and i had to use a lot of force to get it off


The only real problem that I see is is the height of the 4 female thread points, as, if there is any difference to the h320 back plate then the tension wouldn't be right.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> z68 chipset
> 
> just thought if the corsair backplate would work it might be easier to leave it there
> 
> last time i tried to take an h50 backplate off it was severely stuck on there with the sticky pads and i had to use a lot of force to get it off


The only real problem that I see is is the height of the 4 female thread points, as, if there is any difference to the h320 back plate then the tension wouldn't be right.


----------



## Stablerage

Sorry Internet playing up.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The corsair backplate will work fine; it's been done before.


thanks


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> The only real problem that I see is is the height of the 4 female thread points, as, if there is any difference to the h320 back plate then the tension wouldn't be right.


thats why i was asking if any one knew for sure


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> The only real problem that I see is is the height of the 4 female thread points, as, if there is any difference to the h320 back plate then the tension wouldn't be right.


The screws are designed to stop at the motherboard when there is enough tension, as best I can tell.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The screws are designed to stop at the motherboard when there is enough tension, as best I can tell.


Ahh ok Thanks.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> How common is this leaking issue? I'm thinking of moving from my custom loop to the H220 because of space issues and the only thing I'm worried is all the people talking about their H220 leaking.


I would say that it is not common at all. I took apart my unit (see my earlier post) due to other problems and noticed how well put together the pump block is. I stand by my statement that the quality of the block played a big part in my success in (unprofessionally) repairing it. I have disassembled a couple of Corsair (Asetek) pump-blocks and they don't really compare quality wise. The new Corsair H100i is probably close, at least it looks like it in Martin's review.

I'm happy to report that my fixed unit still hums along nicely now a month later. The machine is in a closet, usually the ambient temp run a little higher. The "outdoor" reading on that cheap thermometer is the floor intake in the closet.


----------



## WarpedMonkey

I've already bought the H220 before the rather stupid patent thing and would like to know what would be the best computer case to mount it on the top. I was going for the Define XL r2, but found that the clearance on top was pretty tight and some mobo VRM might interfere. I'm getting a Maximus VI Formula and fear it's going in that category. I looked around and found the Switch 810 which has some ridiculous space all around for WC, but many reviews feel the case is cheap because it's pretty much all plastic.

Will the Define XL r2 fit everything without a problem? Should I get over the plastic and get the Switch 810? Any other case recommandation would be really appreciated.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> I've already bought the H220 before the rather stupid patent thing and would like to know what would be the best computer case to mount it on the top. I was going for the Define XL r2, but found that the clearance on top was pretty tight and some mobo VRM might interfere. I'm getting a Maximus VI Formula and fear it's going in that category. I looked around and found the Switch 810 which has some ridiculous space all around for WC, but many reviews feel the case is cheap because it's pretty much all plastic.
> 
> Will the Define XL r2 fit everything without a problem? Should I get over the plastic and get the Switch 810? Any other case recommandation would be really appreciated.


I don't have the 810, but my NZXT Phantom 630 has enough metal where is counts.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> I've already bought the H220 before the rather stupid patent thing and would like to know what would be the best computer case to mount it on the top. I was going for the Define XL r2, but found that the clearance on top was pretty tight and some mobo VRM might interfere. I'm getting a Maximus VI Formula and fear it's going in that category. I looked around and found the Switch 810 which has some ridiculous space all around for WC, but many reviews feel the case is cheap because it's pretty much all plastic.
> 
> Will the Define XL r2 fit everything without a problem? Should I get over the plastic and get the Switch 810? Any other case recommandation would be really appreciated.


Arc Midi R2 will fit on top.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> I've already bought the H220 before the rather stupid patent thing and would like to know what would be the best computer case to mount it on the top. I was going for the Define XL r2, but found that the clearance on top was pretty tight and some mobo VRM might interfere. I'm getting a Maximus VI Formula and fear it's going in that category. I looked around and found the Switch 810 which has some ridiculous space all around for WC, but many reviews feel the case is cheap because it's pretty much all plastic.
> 
> Will the Define XL r2 fit everything without a problem? Should I get over the plastic and get the Switch 810? Any other case recommandation would be really appreciated.


It fits just fine in the Define XL r2. You can take a look here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1407863/wc-in-fractal-design-xl-r2

It is not the h220 but is essentially the same radiator (quiet power from Swiftech). The mobo is the ASUS RIVE. It will fit too in a Nanoxia DS1 which is also a great case.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thank you for posting this and this should also go in the OP. I've had several of these issues and many of them do appear to be related to a BIOS issue. +Rep.


Yep that´s a simple and important advice that can save people trouble. However, it should be complemented with a simple tip. When you get cpu fan error or software monitoring in OS telling you the pump went to zero did or not your core temperature spike? If pump goes to zero (software info) and temps keeps stable then it is not pump failure.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep that´s a simple and important advice that can save people trouble. However, it should be complemented with a simple tip. When you get cpu fan error or software monitoring in OS telling you the pump went to zero did or not your core temperature spike? If pump goes to zero (software info) and temps keeps stable then it is not pump failure.


Good point. This is exactly right. If you have a CPU fan error warning and your temps don't spike, then you've had a false warning.


----------



## WarpedMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Arc Midi R2 will fit on top.


Thanks everyone, I've checked your cases and the Arc Midi R2 seems pretty nice with the clean looks. As I understand, the mounting hole are offset which ensures that the motherboard has enough space. From your build I see that you have Low Profile RAM and the tubing goes in the 5.25" bay. Do I absolutely need LP RAM or normal will fit? And can you still put a Blu-ray drive in either bay (I think I see something in the second bay, so I guess it's fine) ?

Edit: I see that you have removed the thermal armor on your Sabertooth, is it just aesthetic or needed to fit the rad?


----------



## bond32

What's the optimal rpm range for this pump for pushing flow through an additional 360mm radiator?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> Thanks everyone, I've checked your cases and the Arc Midi R2 seems pretty nice with the clean looks. As I understand, the mounting hole are offset which ensures that the motherboard has enough space. From your build I see that you have Low Profile RAM and the tubing goes in the 5.25" bay. Do I absolutely need LP RAM or normal will fit? And can you still put a Blu-ray drive in either bay (I think I see something in the second bay, so I guess it's fine) ?
> 
> Edit: I see that you have removed the thermal armor on your Sabertooth, is it just aesthetic or needed to fit the rad?


Side of the ODD bay is a bit longer than the actually drive bay. That is why it looks that way.
Lower bay has the bluray top was a fan controller.
Ram in the pic is the GSkill Sniper. You can use standard and still have room.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What's the optimal rpm range for this pump for pushing flow through an additional 360mm radiator?


That's entirely up to you. I suggest adjusting the speed of the pump until you get the optimal noise to performance ratio that you want.


----------



## Magnum26

I have a H220 in my Define R4, it's a tight fit but does fit. Have about 4-5mm of clearance towards the motherboard, however if like me you have a 140mm fan on the back of the case (Enermax cluster) the rad will sit on the frame of the fan (tubes on right side), only time will tell if this causes an issue...


----------



## WarpedMonkey

Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to with Sp33d Junki3's case (Arc Midi R2) as it's the only one with offset mounting points.


----------



## Avonosac

Good choice, I just got finished rebuilding my server in an Arc Midi R2 Mid Tower last night


----------



## Thorgasm

Hi, i purchased an h220 on ebay, brand new in box, Do i still get warranty support in the future.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> Hi, i purchased an h220 on ebay, brand new in box, Do i still get warranty support in the future.


Yes, or at least Bram said they would still support current h220's. Swiftech support is top notch.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes, or at least Bram said they would still support current h220's. Swiftech support is top notch.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


I just want to make sure me purchasing from ebay wasn't a problem.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> I just want to make sure me purchasing from ebay wasn't a problem.


Bram will read your concerns and most likely answer them for you.


----------



## asus3571

well I got both h220's installed. one on a [email protected] 4.6 and one [email protected] stock and asus z87pro the z77xud5h in housed in a haf x and the asus is housed in a 600t . temps are out of this world on the 2700k cpu temp in bios is 25c in windows using realtemp the [email protected] idles around 33c all the way across the cores. load temps are in the high 50's. idle temps on the4770k is 20c haven't loaded it yet but this thing rocks. so silent. now for the gripes mounting system is really bad in my op. on a side note I used a pea sized blob using mx4 on the 2700k and included tim mate on the 4770k using the line method. install is perfect on haf x have it pushing air in the case on both builds. I hope it never breaks cuz it isn't breaking a sweat


----------



## Thorgasm

Off topic but the rog screensaver that came with my motheboard gave my cousin an epileptic seizure, is there any legal action i can take due to no warnings.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> Off topic but the rog screensaver that came with my motheboard gave my cousin an epileptic seizure, is there any legal action i can take do to no warnings.


And if there were warnings, it would be ok?

WARNING: If you read this message you may not like it. "Legal action" like that does not make the world a better place.


----------



## asus3571

yeah way off topic of coarse you can take legal action. if you do it the right way. but your not serious are you?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> I just want to make sure me purchasing from ebay wasn't a problem.


Ebay shouldn't be a problem, so long as you're purchasing it from a reseller and not from a second hand source. Our warranty doesn't transfer between owners. I hope this clears things up for you.


----------



## BenchAndGames

I have a new H320 version, is awesome, but I have a one question.

The pump cable, I have to plug in the device (splitter), and then the splitter cable to the motherboard CPU_FAN ?

Or is there another way more extreme, I really want the pump to run at the maximum speed, do not mind the sound, I just want to get the maximum performance.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> I have a new H320 version, is awesome, but I have a one question.
> 
> The pump cable, I have to plug in the device (splitter), and then the splitter cable to the motherboard CPU_FAN ?
> 
> Or is there another way more extreme, I really want the pump to run at the maximum speed, do not mind the sound, I just want to get the maximum performance.


You could just plug everything into the PWM splitter, and not plug the splitter into any port on the motherboard









As long as your motherboard doesn't freak out with no CPU fan or whatever, this will cause you to get full 12v and 100% RPM from all pumps / fans connected.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> I have a new H320 version, is awesome, but I have a one question.
> 
> The pump cable, I have to plug in the device (splitter), and then the splitter cable to the motherboard CPU_FAN ?
> 
> Or is there another way more extreme, I really want the pump to run at the maximum speed, do not mind the sound, I just want to get the maximum performance.


Having the pump run at full speed as opposed to 60% or so will have virtually no impact on performance. I suggest you run it from the splitter and have the splitter plugged into your CPU fan header. You definitely don't want to run this pump off of anything other than a PWM header, so that it isn't voltage regulated instead. Voltage regulation isn't good for PWM devices and can kill them over time.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Ok, I found another solution for controling the RPM pump, directly from my bios, but I see no difference about 75 PWM and 100 PWM, so I think 75 PWM its good.

I cand join in the club !!!


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> And if there were warnings, it would be ok?
> 
> WARNING: If you read this message you may not like it. "Legal action" like that does not make the world a better place.


See your profile pic, that is how my cousin looked. not even kidding. And a warning would of been nice like the ones they put on video games.


----------



## Thorgasm

ok, thanks.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Having the pump run at full speed as opposed to 60% or so will have virtually no impact on performance. I suggest you run it from the splitter and have the splitter plugged into your CPU fan header. You definitely don't want to run this pump off of anything other than a PWM header, so that it isn't voltage regulated instead. Voltage regulation isn't good for PWM devices and can kill them over time.


Where did you get your H320 from?


----------



## BenchAndGames

From Master Distribuitor BACATA ( France )


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Well sad news. My replacement month old H220 has decided to start a hissy fit.
it is not like air bubbles. It more of a ticking noise like you hear on PWM fans.
30% you can hear it over the fans. 40% dear lord, it is so bad, but once you go 50-70% is not so bad, but annoying. 80-100% not possible to use.
Did the steps stated, but it did not work. Whats weird is when when you hold the pump horizontal is bad, flip it so you see the base, and all the noise is gone and dead silent. Normal vertical placement is just as bad?

Thats all i can do, the time frame I have is little and taking apart is unlikely atm. Might have to wait a month to have free time and space to do it in.


----------



## Avonosac

It almost sounds like the magnet inside your pump is failing...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes, or at least Bram said they would still support current h220's. Swiftech support is top notch.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


from an official reseller
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> I just want to make sure me purchasing from ebay wasn't a problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Ebay shouldn't be a problem, so long as you're purchasing it from a reseller and not from a second hand source. Our warranty doesn't transfer between owners. I hope this clears things up for you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> Off topic but the rog screensaver that came with my motheboard gave my cousin an epileptic seizure, is there any legal action i can take due to no warnings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> And if there were warnings, it would be ok?
> 
> WARNING: If you read this message you may not like it. "Legal action" like that does not make the world a better place.


seriously if he is epileptic... he should of known better.
more over. any tv, computer. or police car can cause it...


----------



## Turt1e

My pump is really loud over 15% so, would running at only 15% have a huge impact on performance?


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Well sad news. My replacement month old H220 has decided to start a hissy fit.
> it is not like air bubbles. It more of a ticking noise like you hear on PWM fans.
> 30% you can hear it over the fans. 40% dear lord, it is so bad, but once you go 50-70% is not so bad, but annoying. 80-100% not possible to use.
> Did the steps stated, but it did not work. Whats weird is when when you hold the pump horizontal is bad, flip it so you see the base, and all the noise is gone and dead silent. Normal vertical placement is just as bad?
> 
> Thats all i can do, the time frame I have is little and taking apart is unlikely atm. Might have to wait a month to have free time and space to do it in.


Sounds mostly like an air bubble but the clicking noise not too sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> My pump is really loud over 15% so, would running at only 15% have a huge impact on performance?


Nope none really.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Did the steps stated, but it did not work. Whats weird is when when you hold the pump horizontal is bad, flip it so you see the base, and all the noise is gone and dead silent.


I had a similar experience with my pump, eventually it stopped completely right side up. And when I took it apart (probably voids your warranty) the magnet fell off the impeller shaft, and there was grind marks in the housing etc. Maybe your pump have some similar problem.


----------



## Avonosac

I feel like this thread needs some more good news..

Without further adieu... Devbox Workhoe.





System specs are:

Phenom 2 x4 955be - C2 stepping








ECS GXM790-AD3 rev 1.0A
16 GB Vengeance 1600 something..
HydroGen GTX 580 - barbs







can't fit lokseals on and tighten down the fittings.
Corsair CX600M - Crappy... I know.
1 TB WD Black
2x 2TB Seagates
H220 with stock Helix 120s in push (top)
MCR-220-QP with 2 SP120s in push (front) - on sale at Microcenter for only $30








Fittings used where applicable - Swiftech 3/8 5/8 LokSeal in Black.

All of this in the freaking *amazing* case Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 - mid tower with window.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I feel like this thread needs some more good news..
> 
> Without further adieu... Devbox Workhoe.
> 
> 
> 
> System specs are:
> 
> Phenom 2 x4 955be - C2 stepping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ECS GXM790-AD3 rev 1.0A
> 16 GB Vengeance 1600 something..
> HydroGen GTX 580 - barbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't fit lokseals on and tighten down the fittings.
> Corsair CX600M - Crappy... I know.
> 1 TB WD Black
> 2x 2TB Seagates
> H220 with stock Helix 120s in push (top)
> MCR-220-QP with 2 SP120s in push (front) - on sale at Microcenter for only $30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fittings used where applicable - Swiftech 3/8 5/8 LokSeal in Black.
> 
> All of this in the freaking *amazing* case Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 - mid tower with window.


Awesome build and very clean.


----------



## bond32

You're right, heres some good news. My corsair 540 is almost complete. Water loop is all bled and running great.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You're right, heres some good news. My corsair 540 is almost complete. Water loop is all bled and running great.


That looks great! We just got one of those cases in here yesterday for test fitting. I really like the design and cooling options. I just wish there were mounts on the PSU side for fans and radiators. That would make it a perfect case.


----------



## Avonosac

Nice looking case, clean build.. the slightly OCD side of me screams at how uneven the Left / Right looks from in front.. but nicely done


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks great! We just got one of those cases in here yesterday for test fitting. I really like the design and cooling options. I just wish there were mounts on the PSU side for fans and radiators. That would make it a perfect case.


I agree. I would have like to have had my single 120mm rad mounted somewhere but oh well.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You're right, heres some good news. My corsair 540 is almost complete. Water loop is all bled and running great.
> 
> 
> 
> That looks great! We just got one of those cases in here yesterday for test fitting. I really like the design and cooling options. I just wish there were mounts on the PSU side for fans and radiators. That would make it a perfect case.
Click to expand...

Well there is kinda. The mesh behind above the PSU might fit a 160mm rad


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You're right, heres some good news. My corsair 540 is almost complete. Water loop is all bled and running great.


Did you fill the loop completely or leave air in res?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Did you fill the loop completely or leave air in res?


Pretty full. I believe the air is almost all bled out, should I not fill it all the way to the cap?


----------



## drnilly007

Trying to figure it out. I just added gpu res and 240mm rad to loop and was hoping that it would eliminate the noise issue I'm having but thinking now that the pump is gone bad. Also hear water swishing around so not sure what to make of it.

I tried all the bleeding techniques and even flushed the loop again. A good 8 hours later and still same result.

I can run the pump at lowest setting and then no noise which would be fine except when I put the rpms upto 2000 temps dropped a good 4-6 degrees which is worth having to help increase overclocks.

Honestly though my gpu is maxxing out at 50-55c with max 1.212v high overclock so temps are good, cpu still putting out same as when it was by itsself. Knowing that it can be better but the horrible noise is really a let down.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Trying to figure it out. I just added gpu res and 240mm rad to loop and was hoping that it would eliminate the noise issue I'm having but thinking now that the pump is gone bad. Also hear water swishing around so not sure what to make of it.
> 
> I tried all the bleeding techniques and even flushed the loop again. A good 8 hours later and still same result.


Ive ran into this problem too. Best I can say is keep trying. Squeeze the lines a little too. Turning the entire case from side to side helped mine. Also I actually took some fluid out and it seems to have improved the water noise.


----------



## os2wiz

NCIX.CA notified me today the H320's are coming in 2 weeks earlier than the August 23rd date they had posted earlier. So I am hopefully looking forward to a great experience. I still wonder how all these noise problems even if air bubble related are going to impact sales to people who have no intention of expanding the loop and will expect it to be hassle free. I have not heard of these air bubble problems with the Corsair products.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> NCIX.CA notified me today the H320's are coming in 2 weeks earlier than the August 23rd date they had posted earlier. So I am hopefully looking forward to a great experience. I still wonder how all these noise problems even if air bubble related are going to impact sales to people who have no intention of expanding the loop and will expect it to be hassle free. I have not heard of these air bubble problems with the Corsair products.


I had a Corsair H110 pump die after 2 weeks, so none of them are perfect.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I had a Corsair H110 pump die after 2 weeks, so none of them are perfect.


Never said Corsair is perfect. If that was my thought I wouldn't have just purchased an H320. Your response begs the question. The pump noise issue is most often air bubbles. Why is it the numero uno issue with the H220 and not with Corsair? This really should not be an issue on a closed loop system if it is properly filled and sealed before leaving the factory. I have had 3 different Corsair model aios for 3 different builds I have made. I can assure you pump noise was never an issue. I know many other people including my professional computer technician who have not encountered the problem with many multiple installations. So there is a qc issue here and I should and everybody should have a right to know its origin. That way it can be fixed from the point of production. This should not be so prevslent on product where the loop has not been expanded. Why???? An honest answer please. Not excuses. My guess is there is something unique to the design of the H320 that makes this more common than it should be. Since this being targeted to people who have never had a custom loop and want better quality , those people are going to be leary of having to go through the usual contortions required by the OP to deal with this issue. You really want to get to the point with such a targeted market that the product doesn't have hiccups like this. It is a potential turn off.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Never said Corsair is perfect. If that was my thought I wouldn't have just purchased an H320. Your response begs the question. The pump noise issue is most often air bubbles. Why is it the numero uno issue with the H220 and not with Corsair? This really should not be an issue on a closed loop system if it is properly filled and sealed before leaving the factory. I have had 3 different Corsair model aios for 3 different builds I have made. I can assure you pump noise was never an issue. I know many other people including my professional computer technician who have not encountered the problem with many multiple installations. So there is a qc issue here and I should and everybody should have a right to know its origin. That way it can be fixed from the point of production. This should not be so prevslent on product where the loop has not been expanded. Why???? An honest answer please. Not excuses. My guess is there is something unique to the design of the H320 that makes this more common than it should be. Since this being targeted to people who have never had a custom loop and want better quality , those people are going to be leary of having to go through the usual contortions required by the OP to deal with this issue. You really want to get to the point with such a targeted market that the product doesn't have hiccups like this. It is a potential turn off.


1 probable cause people are not used to pumps

2 how do you stop air from migrating in a system that box gets turned in every direction possible?

3 why probably due to a much more aggressive pump impeller design which is also why they are better pumps ( one of many reasons )

4 what makes you think you can stop an air bubble @ manufacturing plant ?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 probable cause people are not used to pumps
> 
> 2 how do you stop air from migrating in a system that box gets turned in every direction possible?
> 
> 3 why probably due to a much more aggressive pump impeller design which is also why they are better pumps ( one of many reasons )
> 
> 4 what makes you think you can stop an air bubble @ manufacturing plant ?


I like your answer it makes sense. Especially point 3 about the aggressive impeller design. At least it offers a valid technical reason why it is prevalent as opposedto the Corsair. Thanks.


----------



## Magnum26

Here's mine


----------



## passinos

avonosac. Do you think pump on h220 can handle another 580 I'd you were to SLI?
Would you add a Res to your rig?

Thanks. Look great


----------



## Avonosac

I don't think it would have any trouble at all. Both my rigs have H220 and MCR-220-QP rads already in them. That should be enough for 2 GPUs and the CPU. Rule of thumb being 120mm + (120mm * blockCount) so my 4x120 would work.

I do see in your sig you have the R4, and I have been told by many, and an RL friend who is getting rid of his H220 that it doesn't fit well in the case. He loved the performance but he doesn't like how it looks in the case.

My Arc Midi R2.. well you can see in the pictures, it works fine


----------



## BenchAndGames

My new H320 !!!


----------



## Avonosac

Have you played with the temps with intake? That would generally perform better than the exhaust you have it set up for currently


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> My new H320 !!!


That looks amazing! Great job and let me know what you think once you start stress testing it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> My new H320 !!!


Does the tubing hit the rear fan.
Have you tried having the tube coming from the front.
Oh my, red ram with green mobo, cant look at that. Green or Black.


----------



## TechSilver13

I really liis that red ram. It catches the eye. Good thing about the trident line is you can remove the red heatsink and it will be black. Cheers!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 probable cause people are not used to pumps
> 
> 2 how do you stop air from migrating in a system that box gets turned in every direction possible?
> 
> 3 why probably due to a much more aggressive pump impeller design which is also why they are better pumps ( one of many reasons )
> 
> 4 what makes you think you can stop an air bubble @ manufacturing plant ?


one other thing Mega. When I do my install, it is being top mounted in my case. Is it ever possible with a top mount to have the fill port facing up without modding the case?


----------



## bobsaget

Hey guys,

I am a little worried about my H220. About 1 hour ago, the pump started to make strange noise (somewhat between gurgling and metallic noise). I guess it was air bubble, because i set the pump @ 100% in the bios and started to tip the case left/right front/back and tap the tubing. Sounds much better now, the noise almost disappeared.

Is it normal that this issue appears after 1 month of use?

ty!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am a little worried about my H220. About 1 hour ago, the pump started to make strange noise (somewhat between gurgling and metallic noise). I guess it was air bubble, because i set the pump @ 100% in the bios and started to tip the case left/right front/back and tap the tubing. Sounds much better now, the noise almost disappeared.
> 
> Is it normal that this issue appears after 1 month of use?
> 
> ty!


This is a good question and it's one that I've received quite frequently. Due to the fact that these kits are all filled via the fill port, there is virtually no way to close that fill port after filling it without introducing a small amount of air. Being that these are rather strong pumps they do have a tendency to pull bubbles into them. Due to this they can pull these bubbles into them from time to time. You followed the correct procedures for helping the pump to push the bubble back out. I hope this answers your question, and please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks amazing! Great job and let me know what you think once you start stress testing it.


There is a fail in the H320 package, comes with instruction manual H220. I talked to reseller "Bacata" and acknowledged that all H320, brings the old manual H220.

Swiftech could improve this fail...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Does the tubing hit the rear fan.
> Have you tried having the tube coming from the front.
> Oh my, red ram with green mobo, cant look at that. Green or Black.


No, the tube does not hit the fan, is close, but no hits.

I can not turn the radiator, and put the tubes on the right side, because it will not let me, the drawer of the optical drives. (The roof)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I really liis that red ram. It catches the eye. Good thing about the trident line is you can remove the red heatsink and it will be black. Cheers!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


does not really matter, the color red. What I look for is performance.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> There is a fail in the H320 package, comes with instruction manual H220. I talked to reseller "Bacata" and acknowledged that all H320, brings the old manual H220.
> 
> Swiftech could improve this fail...
> No, the tube does not hit the fan, is close, but no hits.
> 
> I can not turn the radiator, and put the tubes on the right side, because it will not let me, the drawer of the optical drives. (The roof)
> does not really matter, the color red. What I look for is performance.


MEN , don't need instructions, that's why we are MEN.


----------



## marc0053

Finished expanding the H220 unit with 2x240mm UT60 rads + 2 EKWB GTX titan waterblocks









GPUs in the low 50s under benchmarking with unigine valley @ 1215MHz/1.121V and CPU in the low 80s with an I7 [email protected]



I know it could be prettier but my budget is maxed out already...


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is a good question and it's one that I've received quite frequently. Due to the fact that these kits are all filled via the fill port, there is virtually no way to close that fill port after filling it without introducing a small amount of air. Being that these are rather strong pumps they do have a tendency to pull bubbles into them. Due to this they can pull these bubbles into them from time to time. You followed the correct procedures for helping the pump to push the bubble back out. I hope this answers your question, and please let me know if you have any other issues or concerns.


well the noise appeared again. Should i open the fill port once the pump gets silent to let the air go?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Finished expanding the H220 unit with 2x240mm UT60 rads + 2 EKWB GTX titan waterblocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPUs in the low 50s under benchmarking with unigine valley @ 1215MHz/1.121V and CPU in the low 80s with an I7 [email protected]
> 
> I know it could be prettier but my budget is maxed out already...


Looks nice and clean to me







I wonder if putting a small reservoir like Swiftech MCRES would not solve many of these noise " problems" reported in the h220. Bryan any test or data in that regard?

On a side note what core v did you use on your 3930k?


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looks nice and clean to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if putting a small reservoir like Swiftech MCRES would not solve many of these noise " problems" reported in the h220. Bryan any test or data in that regard?
> 
> On a side note what core v did you use on your 3930k?


I used an offset of +0.26V and the total vcore hovered around 1.45V


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> MEN , don't need instructions, that's why we are MEN.


Are you telling me there are no women water cooling enthusiasts? I see a lot with women's avatars. perhaps they are cross dressers, but they are MEN????


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> well the noise appeared again. Should i open the fill port once the pump gets silent to let the air go?


Yes, once the bubble goes out and your pump quiets down, you should be able to top off your radiator with distilled water.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Are you telling me there are no women water cooling enthusiasts? I see a lot with women's avatars. perhaps they are cross dressers, but they are MEN????


You should know by now, when it comes to tech forums, THERE ARE NO WOMEN.


----------



## bobsaget

ok ty but what does "top off" mean? Filling in the rad with distilled water to avoid empty spaces that could be filled by air instead?


----------



## Phelan

Here's mine expanded,can I join?







. Mine is expanded with an MCR320-QP and a 7970 Komodo. Not filled yet as I have a bunch left to do still on the custom case. I at least need to make my grommet holes and PSU mount (which will be slightly further forward BTW for cable clearance) before I can fill the loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> ok ty but what does "top off" mean? Filling in the rad with distilled water to avoid empty spaces that could be filled by air instead?


Yes, just pour a little distilled water into the fill port until the radiator is completely full. This will help to prevent the pump from pulling air into it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Here's mine expanded,can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine is expanded with an MCR320-QP and a 7970 Komodo. Not filled yet as I have a bunch left to do still on the custom case. I at least need to make my grommet holes and PSU mount (which will be slightly further forward BTW for cable clearance) before I can fill the loop.


I thought you were painting that thing slacker.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, just pour a little distilled water into the fill port until the radiator is completely full. This will help to prevent the pump from pulling air into it.


ok thanks, whish i were a native speaker









I guess i'll do this when i have time and patience. The noise disappeared again anyway.

+rep


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Here's mine expanded,can I join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine is expanded with an MCR320-QP and a 7970 Komodo. Not filled yet as I have a bunch left to do still on the custom case. I at least need to make my grommet holes and PSU mount (which will be slightly further forward BTW for cable clearance) before I can fill the loop.
> 
> Nah....Not sure you can join in....I think you should ask the OP about this.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I had a Corsair H110 pump die after 2 weeks, so none of them are perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Never said Corsair is perfect. If that was my thought I wouldn't have just purchased an H320. Your response begs the question. The pump noise issue is most often air bubbles. Why is it the numero uno issue with the H220 and not with Corsair? This really should not be an issue on a closed loop system if it is properly filled and sealed before leaving the factory. I have had 3 different Corsair model aios for 3 different builds I have made. I can assure you pump noise was never an issue. I know many other people including my professional computer technician who have not encountered the problem with many multiple installations. So there is a qc issue here and I should and everybody should have a right to know its origin. That way it can be fixed from the point of production. This should not be so prevslent on product where the loop has not been expanded. Why???? An honest answer please. Not excuses. My guess is there is something unique to the design of the H320 that makes this more common than it should be. Since this being targeted to people who have never had a custom loop and want better quality , those people are going to be leary of having to go through the usual contortions required by the OP to deal with this issue. You really want to get to the point with such a targeted market that the product doesn't have hiccups like this. It is a potential turn off.
Click to expand...

Swiftech has new pump parts coming in to lengthen life of pumps/avoid faulty pump rates within next month or so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSilver13*
> 
> I really liis that red ram. It catches the eye. Good thing about the trident line is you can remove the red heatsink and it will be black. Cheers!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Yup thats what I did with my blue theme see below as I have same ram and only purchased them because the red can be taken off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 probable cause people are not used to pumps
> 
> 2 how do you stop air from migrating in a system that box gets turned in every direction possible?
> 
> 3 why probably due to a much more aggressive pump impeller design which is also why they are better pumps ( one of many reasons )
> 
> 4 what makes you think you can stop an air bubble @ manufacturing plant ?
> 
> 
> 
> one other thing Mega. When I do my install, it is being top mounted in my case. Is it ever possible with a top mount to have the fill port facing up without modding the case?
Click to expand...

Yes mount it with the fans directly on the rad on the side with the res and use the large screws that come with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Finished expanding the H220 unit with 2x240mm UT60 rads + 2 EKWB GTX titan waterblocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPUs in the low 50s under benchmarking with unigine valley @ 1215MHz/1.121V and CPU in the low 80s with an I7 [email protected]
> 
> I know it could be prettier but my budget is maxed out already...
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice and clean to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if putting a small reservoir like Swiftech MCRES would not solve many of these noise " problems" reported in the h220. Bryan any test or data in that regard?
> 
> On a side note what core v did you use on your 3930k?
Click to expand...

I have an EK single bay res and helps somewhat as it gives you another fill port to work with so as your filling the loop you can tip the case to try and fill the h220 rad (if top mounted) to the brim to help eliminate air in it.

This is my *first* watercooling besides Antec 620. There was quite a learning curve but the temps are definitely worth it.

H220, EK CSQ Single Bay res, Black Ice Extreme Alpha 240mm.



780 with 80+ fan speed, which is rather loud would hit temps of low 60's 100% load. With fan at lowest possible noise/performance setting would hit around 80c. With same overclock in H220 loop as pictured below it is in low 50's, 90% steady @ 51c, and that is at lowest possible pump speed! Right now while folding and with 2000 rpm pump speed holding a steady 49c! As soon as I lower the pump to lowest setting temp jumps to 52c and toys with 53c, which is still great.









With pump at max it holds a steady 47c. So with my setup I think 2000 rpm is the sweet spot for noise/performance, especially as the max rpm is just too loud.

Cpu results on 3770k 4.7 1.368v, 2400 ram (stressing IMC), are exactly the same temps while folding as I had before but with 46 multi and 1.35v, 82c avg temp on all cores, not bad definitely ok with me.







This is with 2000rpm. With max rpm 80c avg, not really worth the noise.



I love the looks of the res in this case, from where I sit I dont see the memory fan and led's which makes it look kinda off. Would have put on memory but because of usb 3.0 harness it doesnt sit right.

What I learned.
Need to fill H220 res to the very very top and try to keep all air out of it. This is with it top mounted not sure on below pump mounting.

Air is the enemy. Read that people who do custom loops will give it about a week for all the air bubbles to work out. Day 2 of full loop and there is less noise but still not as serene as day 1.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I thought you were painting that thing slacker.


Oh I have sdomething special in plans for paint







. I still need to decide what I'm going to make the doors out of first though.


----------



## TheGovernment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Finished expanding the H220 unit with 2x240mm UT60 rads + 2 EKWB GTX titan waterblocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPUs in the low 50s under benchmarking with unigine valley @ 1215MHz/1.121V and CPU in the low 80s with an I7 [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> I know it could be prettier but my budget is maxed out already...


Nice build but those temps are kinda high. Your cpu shouldn't be in the 80's. I'm guessing your using 1.46V-1.49V or generally close to that to hit your OC. I wonder if the pump is not powerful enough for all your gear. If you look at my sig rig, my cpu is at 4.8 - 1.45v @ 53C on prime for 6 hours and the titans have never been over 28C even stressed 100% for 6 hours using 1 a custom bios at 1.21. Just seems pretty high.


----------



## John Freeman

would adding a 120mm rad to the loop affect cpu temp enough to justify the price?


----------



## Avonosac

Phelan, you crackhead... why are they all exhaust??


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> would adding a 120mm rad to the loop affect cpu temp enough to justify the price?


For just a CPU? Nope.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Phelan, you crackhead... why are they all exhaust??


Because in mockups they are just thrown on









Notice the top rad fans are NZXT stock fans. I have all Helixes for this build.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Because in mockups they are just thrown on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the top rad fans are NZXT stock fans. I have all Helixes for this build.


Touche. I did notice they weren't the Helices, but they were definitely all exhaust









You see my server?


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Nice build but those temps are kinda high. Your cpu shouldn't be in the 80's. I'm guessing your using 1.46V-1.49V or generally close to that to hit your OC. I wonder if the pump is not powerful enough for all your gear. If you look at my sig rig, my cpu is at 4.8 - 1.45v @ 53C on prime for 6 hours and the titans have never been over 28C even stressed 100% for 6 hours using 1 a custom bios at 1.21. Just seems pretty high.


Thanks for the heads up about the pump. Yeah i may need to upgrade the pump and buy a cpu block. I was expecting better temps especially for 3x 240mm rads. Yes my i7 3960k @ 5.0GHz used about 1.45V


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Have you played with the temps with intake? That would generally perform better than the exhaust you have it set up for currently


well that depends on the system. difference between my intake and exhaust is equal or less then 1c ....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> There is a fail in the H320 package, comes with instruction manual H220. I talked to reseller "Bacata" and acknowledged that all H320, brings the old manual H220.
> 
> Swiftech could improve this fail...
> No, the tube does not hit the fan, is close, but no hits.
> 
> I can not turn the radiator, and put the tubes on the right side, because it will not let me, the drawer of the optical drives. (The roof)
> does not really matter, the color red. What I look for is performance.





and how exactly is that a fail? it is the same unit with a bigger rad ?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Looks nice and clean to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if putting a small reservoir like Swiftech MCRES would not solve many of these noise " problems" reported in the h220. Bryan any test or data in that regard?
> 
> On a side note what core v did you use on your 3930k?





probably, it would give the air another place to escape to... make sure it is higher then the pump though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You should know by now, when it comes to tech forums, THERE ARE NO WOMEN.


rules of the internets.
1 everyone on the internet is a man
2 if you meet a girl on the internet refer to rule 1
3 






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> would adding a 120mm rad to the loop affect cpu temp enough to justify the price?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> For just a CPU? Nope.






sorry my friend i will call incorrect. that would depend on how high your OC is and how hot your cpu is.... granted there really is a wall. but to just come out and just say no... i must disagree.

so answer his question. it is your choice. you can pick up rads on ocn for 120x1 for ~ 35 i think it is worth it, but that is personal choice. make sure you use quality fans though ( static pressure > CFM ) the ones that come with the kit are fine.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Swiftech has new pump parts coming in to lengthen life of pumps/avoid faulty pump rates within next month or so.


I might replace my X60 with the H220, how do we identify that we are getting the new revision ?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I might replace my X60 with the H220, how do we identify that we are getting the new revision ?


I am currently in the RMA process for a new H220 because of some pump issues. The estimate for the new product that I got was a few weeks. I am not sure if this is official but I for one am very excited for the fixes.. Hopefully this will be the last RMA and I can start to expand this bad boy!


----------



## BenchAndGames

@ Mega Man

Yeah its same, but you could add on the cover of the manual, H220 / H320 for example.

_respect for customers_


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well that depends on the system. difference between my intake and exhaust is equal or less then 1c ....
> and how exactly is that a fail? it is the same unit with a bigger rad ?
> probably, it would give the air another place to escape to... make sure it is higher then the pump though
> rules of the internets.
> 1 everyone on the internet is a man
> 2 if you meet a girl on the internet refer to rule 1
> 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry my friend i will call incorrect. that would depend on how high your OC is and how hot your cpu is.... granted there really is a wall. but to just come out and just say no... i must disagree.
> 
> so answer his question. it is your choice. you can pick up rads on ocn for 120x1 for ~ 35 i think it is worth it, but that is personal choice. make sure you use quality fans though ( static pressure > CFM ) the ones that come with the kit are fine.


Well I guess its a matter of opinion. How many degrees you think he is going to get by just adding a 120mm RAD. IMHO, I don't feel its worth it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well I guess its a matter of opinion. How many degrees you think he is going to get by just adding a 120mm RAD. IMHO, I don't feel its worth it.


well a few cs can be the difference between 1200/1800 stable on a 7970 or 1150/1800... so again it is something you have to ask yourself.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well a few cs can be the difference between 1200/1800 stable on a 7970 or 1150/1800... so again it is something you have to ask yourself.


But he only asked about CPU cooling. I still say its not worth it based on spending more money for a RAD, fittings, tubing, then you have the time involved. He just isn't going to get a big enough drop in temps to justify all that IMHO. He also might have to buy a fan, I forgot to add that.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Swiftech has new pump parts coming in to lengthen life of pumps/avoid faulty pump rates within next month or so.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I am currently in the RMA process for a new H220 because of some pump issues. The estimate for the new product that I got was a few weeks. I am not sure if this is official but I for one am very excited for the fixes.. Hopefully this will be the last RMA and I can start to expand this bad boy!
> 
> Question from Teufelshunde:
> 
> Didn't realize Swiftech had identified an existing problem with currently owned H220's and were in process of updating/modifying the pumps to make them better. Would be nice to here something official and are current owners effected. Adding longevity and correcting potential failure rate is substantial.
Click to expand...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> But he only asked about CPU cooling. I still say its not worth it based on spending more money for a RAD, fittings, tubing, then you have the time involved. He just isn't going to get a big enough drop in temps to justify all that IMHO. He also might have to buy a fan, I forgot to add that.


again that is just an EXAMPLE> and the reason why it is a personal choice. not something that someone can just come in and say no to without more info

ie
what chip
what speed oc does HE want
what mobo you running on
current temps and speeds
what does he want to oc.. IE on amd FX to up cpu/nb takes more volts which makes more heat then ANYTHING else

maybe after that you could give a more solid answer but to just blatantly come out and say no..... well is wrong


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again that is just an EXAMPLE> and the reason why it is a personal choice. not something that someone can just come in and say no to without more info
> 
> ie
> what chip
> what speed oc does HE want
> what mobo you running on
> current temps and speeds
> what does he want to oc.. IE on amd FX to up cpu/nb takes more volts which makes more heat then ANYTHING else
> 
> maybe after that you could give a more solid answer but to just blatantly come out and say no..... well is wrong


I stand by my short to the point answer, so moving on.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I might replace my X60 with the H220, how do we identify that we are getting the new revision ?
> 
> 
> 
> I am currently in the RMA process for a new H220 because of some pump issues. The estimate for the new product that I got was a few weeks. I am not sure if this is official but I for one am very excited for the fixes.. Hopefully this will be the last RMA and I can start to expand this bad boy!
Click to expand...

Does the product have a very high failure rate?


----------



## drnilly007

No not failure... just high noise rate which the new parts are aiming to eliminate that.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Swiftech has new pump parts coming in to lengthen life of pumps/avoid faulty pump rates within next month or so.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> No not failure... just high noise rate which the new parts are aiming to eliminate that.
> 
> 
> 
> Which is it, lengthen life of pumps/avoid faulty pump rates or aiming to eliminate high noise rate. As far as I know all noise concerns have been pointed toward air bubbles and people directed to the OP for correction. Several people now have made indications of new pumps parts or a pump revision in the near future with your post leading the way. What we need is maybe a confirmation from Swiftech regarding possible redesign/new parts being introduced on the H220 and were that leaves its original customers.
Click to expand...


----------



## mcnumpty23

my h320 just arrived

and the pwm splitter has a sata connector


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> my h320 just arrived
> 
> and the pwm splitter has a sata connector


Dang, I wouldn't mind having one of those. Constantly fighting to keep the pins in the plastic molex housing... Likely my fault for plugging and unplugging so many times but sata is much better.


----------



## mcnumpty23

yeah i was happy to see it was a sata connector

only quickly opened the box as i had to go out--but that caught my eye immediately

going to fully unbox it later tonight and take a drill and a hacksaw blade to my storm trooper and make it fit in there one way or another


----------



## Snyderman34

I cannot for the life of me get this dang thing to let loose of this air bubble. I've got some distilled water so I can top off, but it won't bring it to the top. Can't run over 30% without excessive noise


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get this dang thing to let loose of this air bubble. I've got some distilled water so I can top off, but it won't bring it to the top. Can't run over 30% without excessive noise


Have you tried running it with the fill-port cap removed? This will sometimes help to alleviate the pressure that's holding the bubble in place and let it escape through the reservoir. Let me know if this works.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried running it with the fill-port cap removed? This will sometimes help to alleviate the pressure that's holding the bubble in place and let it escape through the reservoir. Let me know if this works.


Ok I'll try that. It does look like there is a bubble at the fill cap. I tip the case and it just slides to the side. Looks like it's gonna go away, but then slides back to the opening.

EDIT: There's definitely some bubbles coming out now. Think I'm getting somewhere


----------



## tmsmith

Bryan
Just wanted to chime in again on two things. After using the fans for two weeks, it started to make a lot of racket again. I took a look and could see one of the fans wobble. I went ahead and ordered two Noctua fans for silence. These are working excellent, which I hate to say about the rebranded fans. Either way, thanks for trying with the replacements. I guess just bad luck

After ordering the replacement backplate for the 1150, either I got a warped one or it was a very tight fit. Either way, I had to take some pliers and bend two of the pegs so that it would fit through the mother board. Even then it was a tight fit. It was probably just more bad luck.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Bryan
> Just wanted to chime in again on two things. After using the fans for two weeks, it started to make a lot of racket again. I took a look and could see one of the fans wobble. I went ahead and ordered two Noctua fans for silence. These are working excellent, which I hate to say about the rebranded fans. Either way, thanks for trying with the replacements. I guess just bad luck
> 
> After ordering the replacement backplate for the 1150, either I got a warped one or it was a very tight fit. Either way, I had to take some pliers and bend two of the pegs so that it would fit through the mother board. Even then it was a tight fit. It was probably just more bad luck.
> 
> Thanks for your help.


I'm sorry to hear about your fans and back plate. Are you sure though that you had the back plate oriented correctly? What I mean by this is that there are two screws on the back of the motherboard that need to fit into the notch on one side of our back plate. If the back plate isn't oriented correctly then you're going to have issues with fitting it and this might also give you problems with achieving a proper contact on your processor.


----------



## WarpedMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Bryan
> Just wanted to chime in again on two things. After using the fans for two weeks, it started to make a lot of racket again. I took a look and could see one of the fans wobble. I went ahead and ordered two Noctua fans for silence. These are working excellent, which I hate to say about the rebranded fans. Either way, thanks for trying with the replacements. I guess just bad luck
> 
> After ordering the replacement backplate for the 1150, either I got a warped one or it was a very tight fit. Either way, I had to take some pliers and bend two of the pegs so that it would fit through the mother board. Even then it was a tight fit. It was probably just more bad luck.
> 
> Thanks for your help.


Not really related to your problem, but you talked about a different plate for 1150. I thought it came with the cooler/is the same backplate as the 1155 socket. Do I have to order the 1150 backplate or I'll be fine?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarpedMonkey*
> 
> Not really related to your problem, but you talked about a different plate for 1150. I thought it came with the cooler/is the same backplate as the 1155 socket. Do I have to order the 1150 backplate or I'll be fine?


The 1155/1156/1366 back plate that comes attached to this cooler is also compatible with the new socket 1150.


----------



## bond32

What are some good ideas for things to add to the top of the cpu block housing? My pump is a replacement, turns out the plastic cap wouldn't stay on.



Perhaps something like the drive 2 setup with a heatsink?


----------



## tmsmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about your fans and back plate. Are you sure though that you had the back plate oriented correctly? What I mean by this is that there are two screws on the back of the motherboard that need to fit into the notch on one side of our back plate. If the back plate isn't oriented correctly then you're going to have issues with fitting it and this might also give you problems with achieving a proper contact on your processor.


I tried orientating serveral different ways but decided on the way I think it was meant to. There was a screw one the back of the motherboard, holding what I assume is part of the processor mount. I lined up the notche on the replacement back plate with this screw. To be clear, when I say bend the pegs it was more like force them over enough to get it in. It was more frustrating than anything.

Once I got the backplate on, the fans replaced everything has been peachy. 25c on idle and 65c on load. Pump has been purring away nicely.


----------



## kikibgd

hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
i installed it like this so i will have less space issue

at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.

i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.

one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
both fans set of fans are working.

any ideas?

i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside

maybe the paste is not so good?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> I tried orientating serveral different ways but decided on the way I think it was meant to. There was a screw one the back of the motherboard, holding what I assume is part of the processor mount. I lined up the notche on the replacement back plate with this screw. To be clear, when I say bend the pegs it was more like force them over enough to get it in. It was more frustrating than anything.
> 
> Once I got the backplate on, the fans replaced everything has been peachy. 25c on idle and 65c on load. Pump has been purring away nicely.


OK, then it sounds like you have everything installed properly.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
> i installed it like this so i will have less space issue
> at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.
> i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.
> 
> one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
> both fans set of fans are working.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside
> 
> maybe the paste is not so good?


Try re-seating the cooler. Something is not right. And no, it is not the quality of the paste. Pump is running normally? Can you enter BIOS and check pump speed? Did you use the PWM splitter to install the h220?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
> i installed it like this so i will have less space issue
> at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.
> i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.
> 
> one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
> both fans set of fans are working.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside
> 
> maybe the paste is not so good?


Dont spread the thermal paste, as you will mostly be removed when you put pressure from the block. Just a drop (rice or pea size) in the center and let the block do the spreading. Screw down in a cross pattern and make sure you have a good tight feel with your fingers.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
> i installed it like this so i will have less space issue
> 
> at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.
> 
> i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.
> 
> one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
> both fans set of fans are working.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside
> 
> maybe the paste is not so good?


How tight is the contact between the VRMs heatsink on the mobo and the barb/tubing of the H220? Another user couldn't mount the H220 on the same board because the heatsink obstructed the mounting.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> How tight is the contact between the VRMs heatsink on the mobo and the barb/tubing of the H220? Another user couldn't mount the H220 on the same board because the heatsink obstructed the mounting.


He appears to have it working again. It was most likely just a temporary obstruction in the pump due to an air bubble. He'll let me know if he has any further issues.


----------



## mcnumpty23

only just finally got round to opening my h320 fully

took it out the box and something was rattling

turned it upside down and 2 of the little silver screws that hold the fans fell out

no biggie just screwed them in

just got to attack my storm trooper to make it fit

is it better to mount this vertically or horizontally?

or doesn't it matter?

and heres the pics--shows that nice sata connector


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> only just finally got round to opening my h320 fully
> 
> took it out the box and something was rattling
> 
> turned it upside down and 2 of the little silver screws that hold the fans fell out
> 
> no biggie just screwed them in
> 
> just got to attack my storm trooper to make it fit
> 
> is it better to mount this vertically or horizontally?
> 
> or doesn't it matter?
> 
> and heres the pics--shows that nice sata connector


I would think it would depend on how the case is oriented, but the thing to watch for for the least maintenance is having the reservoir opening pointed upwards so it can catch bubbles. which is slightly harder to do vertically since, it means the tubing is generally coming from the bottom of the case all the way to the cpu.


----------



## bond32

Posted this in the Corsair 540 forum too, but here are a few pics of mine. H220 pump is running like a champ, first time since I got it that I think all the air is out or in the res. Pump pushes flow to the heatkiller block, additional 360 radiator, and the h220 rad perfectly fine. Just need to figure out some cool looking cover for the pump/block.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I would think it would depend on how the case is oriented, but the thing to watch for for the least maintenance is having the reservoir opening pointed upwards so it can catch bubbles. which is slightly harder to do vertically since, it means the tubing is generally coming from the bottom of the case all the way to the cpu.


sounds logical

though putting it horizontally on top of this case would mean a lot more cutting and losing the use of the handle and hot swap bay

i assume i could stick the h320 in the empty case with just a spare psu and no components to test?

ie no motherboard etc

this would just make the pump and fans run at full speed as no pwm control would be available?


----------



## John Freeman

i just replaced the tubes and coolant in the h220 and now im getting a gurgling noise from the pump area. I could have sworn i got all air out. any ideas?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> i just replaced the tubes and coolant in the h220 and now im getting a gurgling noise from the pump area. I could have sworn i got all air out. any ideas?


It takes a little while and effort to get it all out. If you hear that sound you didn't get all the air out of the pump. Keep the res at the highest point, and the pump at the lowest point. Just tilt/shake stuff and the air will eventually come out.


----------



## mcnumpty23

just tested my h320 outside the case

not connected to motherboard so i assume fans and pump were at full speed

quite impressive

no gurgling noises and if thats the fans at full speed they certainly werent what i would call loud

just a whooshing of air sort of noise--just a little louder than my h80 and the fans on the h80 arent at full speed probably about 1100-1200rpm


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> only just finally got round to opening my h320 fully
> 
> took it out the box and something was rattling
> 
> turned it upside down and 2 of the little silver screws that hold the fans fell out
> 
> no biggie just screwed them in
> 
> just got to attack my storm trooper to make it fit
> 
> is it better to mount this vertically or horizontally?
> 
> or doesn't it matter?
> 
> and heres the pics--shows that nice sata connector


What manual instruction do you have with the H320 ? Because in my package I have the H220 version manual.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> What manual instruction do you have with the H320 ? Because in my package I have the H220 version manual.


yeah mine also says h220

but cant see it mattering its the same thing with a bigger rad and one more fan


----------



## kikibgd

ok fixed the problem bryan was lightning fast with help again thanks

its tight but this is the best position upper tube i cant move.
working great now


----------



## Stablerage

Hi People. Just a question about fan configuration ideas for my Haf xm.
My h220 is top mounted pulling air in. 200mm front intake and 140mm exhaust.
I have the side panel ready for a "200mm fan. Which would be the redundant top fan
The Gtx 690 can get hot. so with the fans I have, does anyone have any recommendations or ideas for best fan layout? Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
> i installed it like this so i will have less space issue
> 
> at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.
> 
> i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.
> 
> one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
> both fans set of fans are working.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside
> 
> maybe the paste is not so good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> sounds logical
> 
> though putting it horizontally on top of this case would mean a lot more cutting and losing the use of the handle and hot swap bay
> 
> i assume i could stick the h320 in the empty case with just a spare psu and no components to test?
> 
> ie no motherboard etc
> 
> this would just make the pump and fans run at full speed as no pwm control would be available?


you can easily put it in the top without
1 loosing handle ( with modding )
2 you can even do it with no mods


----------



## John Freeman

What do yall think of the tubing?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> What do yall think of the tubing?


I thought about doing white for mine, then decided not to since my cables are blue. But in your case with the white cables, I think it looks very nice.


----------



## Mega Man

+1


----------



## Entei

1st post







. Can i join the club?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can easily put it in the top without
> 1 loosing handle ( with modding )
> 2 you can even do it with no mods


this is an h320 not an h220

i cant see how it would go in the top with no mods--theres only outlets for 2 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm fans

i can see how i could keep the handle--but it would only be for show as it would no longer be riveted to the case frame so wouldnt be lifting the case with it


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Entei*
> 
> 1st post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can i join the club?


nice radiator surface area to chip in need of cooling ratio you got there


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> this is an h320 not an h220
> 
> i cant see how it would go in the top with no mods--theres only outlets for 2 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm fans
> 
> i can see how i could keep the handle--but it would only be for show as it would no longer be riveted to the case frame so wouldnt be lifting the case with it


depends on how you would cut out the metal the mounts would probably need reinforced, with bar metal it has been done in the storm tooper/styker club in my sig

without modding 2 ways
1~ only bolts in the first 2 fans
2 fan 1 and 2 pull fan 3 push

HEY i never said they were perfect options.


----------



## Entei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> nice radiator surface area to chip in need of cooling ratio you got there


Thanks dude. The 280 rad looks a lot better there than at the bottom of the case


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Entei*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can i join the club?


I am doing a very similar loop this week when the rest of the stuff gets here. I will be cooling two cards though as Bryan @ Swiftech and others say it will work great.

What are your temps for CPU and GPU, if you don't mind?

I'm wondering if this little pump will push water through one of those Phobya Xtreme 400mm rads

Going to do one of those in the front-side of the case when I do a full custom loop:



Would LOVE to buy that 400mm rad earlier than that and toss it in the loop now...


----------



## Entei

2600k at 4.8ghz around 65°

gtx 690 gpu 1 40° gpu 2 43°


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Entei nice build. The 280 on the HDD is that intake or exhaust?
Intake you want to make sure that you have both front 140mm front fans going, without too much restrictions. As is, all you get is heat from the HDD.

Also the pump itself, the clearance on the tubes to the top, seems tight. Rotating it to give a better clearance without pressure. (Logo lower right)


----------



## Entei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Entei nice build. The 280 on the HDD is that intake or exhaust?
> Intake you want to make sure that you have both front 140mm front fans going, without too much restrictions. As is, all you get is heat from the HDD.
> 
> Also the pump itself, the clearance on the tubes to the top, seems tight. Rotating it to give a better clearance without pressure. (Logo lower right)


thanks. i have the front fans running and theres only an ssd and 1 hdd


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Entei*
> 
> thanks. i have the front fans running and theres only an ssd and 1 hdd


So Intake from the front. I would place the HDD + SSD elsewhere and remove all the HDD mounting to leave open space in the cage.
You could mount the HDD+SSD in the ODD bay.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Did you guys see Paul's hardware compare h220, h110, eisberg and TT

And the winner is swiftech h220


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Did you guys see Paul's hardware compare h220, h110, eisberg and TT
> 
> And the winner is swiftech h220


Here is the link


----------



## MerkageTurk

yep sorry i was on mobile, i was unable to link


----------



## Ragsters

Any release date on different color swiftech tubing?


----------



## zila

This is the finest cooler I have ever owned.
I also like having the rad mounted externally as it's easier to maintain and draws cold air into the rad much easier. Looks tough I think. (Please excuse the messy house in the background. I'm painting and remodeling the old house)

I am so glad that I bought this kit when I did, well actually it was a gift but you know what I mean.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Not bad.
If you got the Arc Midi R2 you can do a P/P inside with no clearance issues.


----------



## TheEnergy

The Eisberg 240L is complete garbage


----------



## mcnumpty23

the h320 does fit in the front of the storm trooper









had to remove the hidden drawer

and hard drive cages--but only using ssds anyway

and have one 5.25 bay usable

also had to put the reservoir at the bottom as dont think the tubes would have reached with the reservoir at the top

but tested it and no gurgling or sounds of air bubbles with the reservoir below the pump

terrible photo from my phone

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/20130804_205643_zps22671982.jpg.html


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> The Eisberg 240L is complete garbage


How so? I heard the pump in it was somewhat strong... Not h220 strong but yeah...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> The Eisberg 240L is complete garbage


How so? Your post has no bearings.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> The Eisberg 240L is complete garbage


Idk, looks pretty ok to me? I hope they improve upon the mounting system also wonder about where in the loop is a trap for air. H220 looks better to me but the eisberg looks like the real deal too.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys help me out, my 4770k died due my mistake, I got new one running all at stock nothing touched
> i installed it like this so i will have less space issue
> 
> at idle (downloading surfing etc) my temps around 70c witch is not normal.
> 
> i screwed everything till the end, used swiftech paste on the ihs(cpu is not delidded) metod for spreading used with credit card equal thin layer.
> 
> one of the tubes on the photo(upper one) is really worm other one(down) is cold so i guess pump is working
> both fans set of fans are working.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> i checked the backplate and all the screws are equally outside
> 
> maybe the paste is not so good?


Reseat your cpu cooler 90 degrees so that the tubes run east/west not north/south as they are in the pic


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> Hi People. Just a question about fan configuration ideas for my Haf xm.
> My h220 is top mounted pulling air in. 200mm front intake and 140mm exhaust.
> I have the side panel ready for a "200mm fan. Which would be the redundant top fan
> The Gtx 690 can get hot. so with the fans I have, does anyone have any recommendations or ideas for best fan layout? Thanks.


Not ever one reply. Gutted.


----------



## passinos

Forgive me is this has been discussed.

Will a H220 handle an additional 280mm radiator with 3770k at 4.4 and Two 7970's full water?

I am mostly concerned about pump and built in Res.

My other idea was a MCR-X20 (integrated pump and Res) instead of standard 280mm Rad.

Thanks all


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Forgive me is this has been discussed.
> 
> Will a H220 handle an additional 280mm radiator with 3770k at 4.4 and Two 7970's full water?
> 
> I am mostly concerned about pump and built in Res.
> 
> My other idea was a MCR-X20 (integrated pump and Res) instead of standard 280mm Rad.
> 
> Thanks all


You only really need another res if the stock one is lower than the pump.
Adding 280 rad with 2 gpu+cpu is enough.


----------



## Dizz22r

Seeing some of you guys with a h320 makes me very jealous! I waited so long for it to be released only to hear that we are not going to be able to buy them here in the (US). I might just be forced to buy a full custom loop.

P.S before speedjunkie comes in here and says to order it from ncix. I am not paying 60$ shipping from canada to my home. If i am doing that might as well buy the apogee drive 2 kit.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Seeing some of you guys with a h320 makes me very jealous! I waited so long for it to be released only to hear that we are not going to be able to buy them here in the (US). I might just be forced to buy a full custom loop.
> 
> P.S before speedjunkie comes in here and says to order it from ncix. I am not paying 60$ shipping from canada to my home. If i am doing that might as well buy the apogee drive 2 kit.


What makes you think shipping from Canada is $60? I went through the ordering process last night but stopped right before checkout to check finances first. The total cost shipped to SoCal came to about $179 US.


----------



## TeeBlack

i checked the shipping the other day and shipping was about $42 from canada to NY


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What makes you think shipping from Canada is $60? I went through the ordering process last night but stopped right before checkout to check finances first. The total cost shipped to SoCal came to about $179 US.


I got a shipping quote from ncix and the shipping estimate to my location was roughly 60$ if you payed 179 that is not bad were did you purchase yours?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeeBlack*
> 
> i checked the shipping the other day and shipping was about $42 from canada to NY


Just purchased the thing two minutes ago. I paid a total of around $185 US. I even used the Canada Express mail (4-7 days) instead of the UPS (5-8 days).


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just purchased the thing two minutes ago. I paid a total of around $185 US. I even used the Canada Express mail (4-7 days) instead of the UPS (5-8 days).


From NCIX?

I get a shipping estimate of 58$ USD.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> From NCIX?


No. It was from NCIX.CA


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> No. It was from NCIX.CA


Dont know how you got such an amazing deal on shipping lol. I get some ridiculous quotes.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> Dont know how you got such an amazing deal on shipping lol. I get some ridiculous quotes.


Another OCN member (os2wiz) payed around $15 to get it shipped to NY. The quote that you are getting is a generic estimate. Just go through the process, without clicking confirm, and you will see.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Another OCN member (os2wiz) payed around $15 to get it shipped to NY. The quote that you are getting is a generic estimate. Just go through the process, without clicking confirm, and you will see.


THANKS!!++REP

I did what you stated, got the whole deal for about 178 USD! So it looks like the h320 will still happen. Thanks for the heads up! Funny thing is the eiseberg 240l is 179.99 so still getting a killer deal. How about that!

I cant wait to get it!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> THANKS!!++REP
> 
> I did what you stated, got the whole deal for about 178 USD! So it looks like the h320 will still happen. Thanks for the heads up! Funny thing is the eiseberg 240l is 179.99 so still getting a killer deal. How about that!
> 
> I cant wait to get it!


Thanks for the rep! Oh and don't forget the $4-$5 for insurance. Your cost should come out very similar to mine.


----------



## Dizz22r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for the rep! Oh and don't forget the $4-$5 for insurance. Your cost should come out very similar to mine.


I shouldn't be to worried, after all Swiftech takes very good care of its customers right Bryan?








Let's see how far my sandy will go!


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How so? Your post has no bearings.


Here you go buddy:


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*


The mounting is not so good. That isnt new.
The gaskets is common design. I have the same style that you can buy at frozencpu. Its not needed to use. its an option.
Just those dont make the kit bad. So with that logic, I still stand by my original comment.
As a whole kit, it is very good. Pump is strong and not too loud, unless at 12v. The rad is a very good Alphacool.


----------



## kikibgd

guys my pump just started making grinding noise its annoying i tried from the first post to tilt the case squeeze the pipes, helped for like 5min and then back to normal.

any more tricks ?


----------



## michael-ocn

That was a piss poor review, imho. There is a real deficiency in the mounting system which should be improved, its significant but i don't think a fatal flaw. The reviewer failed to make the most of the kit by failing to adequately mount the block on the cpu (maybe the mounting hardware was flawed). Being unable to properly mount the block, he trashed the product in his review out of frustration. His complaints about the fan gaskets and the aesthetics amount to whining. Maybe he fouled the mounting holes on the mobo with so many installations of difference coolers (sounds like he tinkers with his system quite a lot for whatever reason).

Probably a spare mounting pin was all he needed (assuming the mobo wasn't damaged). Instead of recognizing the essence of the problem, he just trashed the whole thing from top to bottom. Pretty lame review if you ask me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*


edit: i'm just realizing the reviewer was you. fwiw as a consumer of reviews, there's my review of your review.


----------



## bobsaget

Hey everyone,

I hope you had a nice week end.

I'm currently considering an expansion of my h220 in order to properly watercool the gpu in the bitfenix prodigy.

I'm using a custom gtx660ti at the moment, therefore i plan to buy a reference 670 or 770.

Here are my preliminary thoughts
- the h220 rad will remain at the top of the case, single pull from my Noiseblocker eLoop PWM
- i've already mounted a 180mm phobya fan at the front as an intake, I think I could easily add the 200 rad from phobya there (gotta check the cleareance with top rad though)
- i could turn my back 120mm fan as an intake to bring some fresh air. Maybe, maybe not. What do you think?

My questions:
- what do i need to buy? GPU block, compression fittings, tubbing, liquid.. that's it? Should i also buy another res?
- are 240+200mm rad surface area enough to properly cool the GPU and CPU (oced 2500k)?
- if I fill the loop another coolant, will it matter with the swiftech coolant that ran through the h220 rad, pump and cpu block?

thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I hope you had a nice week end.
> 
> I'm currently considering an expansion of my h220 in order to properly watercool the gpu in the bitfenix prodigy.
> 
> I'm using a custom gtx660ti at the moment, therefore i plan to buy a reference 670 or 770.
> 
> Here are my preliminary thoughts
> - the h220 rad will remain at the top of the case, single pull from my Noiseblocker eLoop PWM
> - i've already mounted a 180mm phobya fan at the front as an intake, I think I could easily add the 200 rad from phobya there (gotta check the cleareance with top rad though)
> - i could turn my back 120mm fan as an intake to bring some fresh air. Maybe, maybe not. What do you think?
> 
> My questions:
> - what do i need to buy? GPU block, compression fittings, tubbing, liquid.. that's it? Should i also buy another res?
> - are 240+200mm rad surface area enough to properly cool the GPU and CPU (oced 2500k)?
> - if I fill the loop another coolant, will it matter with the swiftech coolant that ran through the h220 rad, pump and cpu block?
> 
> thanks!


there are few if any good 200mm rad fans if it were me i would stick to 120s, or 140s


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are few if any good 200mm rad fans if it were me i would stick to 120s, or 140s


I know but i won't be able to fit 2*240mm rad in the prodigy without modding. I don't plan modding the case.
I think 200+240 is the maximum dissipation area i can get with the case.

Plus i've already bought the phobya fan at the beginning of this rig. I don't plan heavy oc either, so even though static pressure and therefore temps potential won't be great, do you think that's gonna be enough?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizz22r*
> 
> From NCIX?
> 
> I get a shipping estimate of 58$ USD.


From UPS??? Impossible.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Forgive me is this has been discussed.
> 
> Will a H220 handle an additional 280mm radiator with 3770k at 4.4 and Two 7970's full water?
> 
> I am mostly concerned about pump and built in Res.
> 
> My other idea was a MCR-X20 (integrated pump and Res) instead of standard 280mm Rad.
> 
> Thanks all


Check out the thread i have started about expanding a h220 to add 2 gpus.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1414991/do-i-need-a-better-pump/0_20#post_20528773
I hope this helps


----------



## FatBoyTyler

So I have come to the conclusion that the gargling sound I hear in my pump is due to a lack of liquid in the radiator. So my question is what kind of liquid is safe to use? The Hrydx coolants are always sold out everywhere I look. So could I use like a EK oe XPSC or some other coolant as well? Or do I need to wait for it to come in stock? Its not a pressing matter. It doesn't occur until 65%+ with pump speed.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So I have come to the conclusion that the gargling sound I hear in my pump is due to a lack of liquid in the radiator. So my question is what kind of liquid is safe to use? The Hrydx coolants are always sold out everywhere I look. So could I use like a EK oe XPSC or some other coolant as well? Or do I need to wait for it to come in stock? Its not a pressing matter. It doesn't occur until 65%+ with pump speed.


Just add distilled water.


----------



## John Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just add distilled water.


i second this


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just add distilled water.


Is that completely okay? I really don't wanna shorten the life span of a $150 component


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Is that completely okay? I really don't wanna shorten the life span of a $150 component


Yes, its fine.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yes, its fine.


any kind of distilled water? Even cheap one?

i've got the same issue, once the pump runs over 2000rpm, rattling noise starts and won't stop until i stop and restart the computer


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> any kind of distilled water? Even cheap one?
> 
> i've got the same issue, once the pump runs over 2000rpm, rattling noise starts and won't stop until i stop and restart the computer


Distilled is distilled.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Distilled is distilled.


I topped my system off with distilled water when I added the res to the loop. I just used some of the distilled water I keep in the house for the iron.


----------



## bobsaget

ok thanks +rep both of you


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> ok thanks +rep both of you


Yay, I got my first flame.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yay, I got my first flame.


----------



## bond32

Is there any way to make a fitting or change out the swivel barb fittings on the pump and rad so I could use the Primochill rigid tubing? That stuff looks insane. They just require their own compression fittings. It is 3/8 ID 1/2 OD, but the OD shouldn't matter.

Edit: Answered my own question. Would need to have a g1/4 female to female adapter. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30435


----------



## dallas1990

My pump on my h220 has been making a whirring sound. I shook the rad pretty well and moved it around seeing if air was trapped. But it won't go away. I haven't opened the loop at all so I'm assuming its something else. I'm tempted to remove my cooler and run warm water through it to get debris out. And top it off so I know it full. But I never done something like that.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? Its a h220 on a and CPU with the pump barbs going left and right.


----------



## michael-ocn

I wouldn't run tap water through it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> My pump on my h220 has been making a whirring sound. I shook the rad pretty well and moved it around seeing if air was trapped. But it won't go away. I haven't opened the loop at all so I'm assuming its something else. I'm tempted to remove my cooler and run warm water through it to get debris out. And top it off so I know it full. But I never done something like that.
> 
> Any ideas on what could be wrong? Its a h220 on a and CPU with the pump barbs going left and right.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I wouldn't run tap water through it.


Personally I don´t think that is a problem. You can run tap water as long as after you flush all your parts with dist. water prior to fill up with coolant.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there any way to make a fitting or change out the swivel barb fittings on the pump and rad so I could use the Primochill rigid tubing? That stuff looks insane. They just require their own compression fittings. It is 3/8 ID 1/2 OD, but the OD shouldn't matter.
> 
> Edit: Answered my own question. Would need to have a g1/4 female to female adapter. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30435


You would need that, a barb or 3/8x5/8" compression fitting, and a short piece of tubing to run at each of the barbs, in order to properly adapt them to rigid tubing.


----------



## dallas1990

i thought about heating distilled water in the microwave and just put enough in it to fill the rad about a third or so


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> i thought about heating distilled water in the microwave and just put enough in it to fill the rad about a third or so


I personally use Martin method for flushing and cleaning parts:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/

You can use warm water from the tap to flush and backflush both blocks and rads and latter just flush them again with distilled.

But, yep, you can just warm the distil and then put it in the rad and gently shake things a bit for cleaning too.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Finally started assembling this H220 loop with two 670 DCUII's. I ordered the wrong size EK link for the GPU's, but that will be here tomorrow. Bummer because that's the only thing left to do here.

These pics are before I cinched everything up on the barbs. I'll get the compression fittings for everything once I go away from the AIO. I think the loop is really clean and the short runs along with the parallel water configuration for the GPU's should help the pump do it's job with a bit less restriction.

This pic with a mock up with the smaller block. I used it to align the fittings for the GPU's. It worked out good and allowed me to move forward enough on the planning.



Just zoomed out snap without the link as I need to keep that nice so I can sell it. I hate when people don't pull back on the pics so you can see that whole system.



Coming along! Sadly, I won't have time to finish it until the weekend as I have a project to start tomorrow. I'll post more if I can...


----------



## goddog

so I have a question for you guys. I have expanded my loop h220 and have been happy with performance. I have no issues when the tower is running (almost always 24/7) or if i have to restart. however, as of late if i leave my tower off for more than say about 45 min the pump does not start back up. have tested with multiple psu, and checked the pump cabling and all psu cabling for damage. none seen. i have had to tear down the loop twice. not really sure what got it to work again. i had torn down the loop to check for gunk, grim but none showed up in the filter

any ideas on whats causing this?

I am using the new blue hydrox for the loop, the loop has an EK 7970 lightning block, a swiftech mcr120-qp, and a mcres micro rev2 reservoir


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> so I have a question for you guys. I have expanded my loop h220 and have been happy with performance. I have no issues when the tower is running (almost always 24/7) or if i have to restart. however, as of late if i leave my tower off for more than say about 45 min the pump does not start back up. have tested with multiple psu, and checked the pump cabling and all psu cabling for damage. none seen. i have had to tear down the loop twice. not really sure what got it to work again. i had torn down the loop to check for gunk, grim but none showed up in the filter
> 
> any ideas on whats causing this?
> 
> I am using the new blue hydrox for the loop, the loop has an EK 7970 lightning block, a swiftech mcr120-qp, and a mcres micro rev2 reservoir


How is the pump connected, is it straight to the mobo?


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> How is the pump connected, is it straight to the mobo?


normally it is on a pwm splitter supplied by swiftech with the h220. however i set straight on the mobo as well. i tried removing the pin for speed from the mobo which sent the fans all to 100% on the splitter did not change status of pump from not pumping. swapped pwm splitter as i owned a second one, used in a non water cooled case. and tried it plugged into another mobo directly same issue. in each case it will still start back up unless left off longer than about 45 min. as mentioned above swapped psu and on the modular psu swapped molex cable

main mobo is a gigabyte - ga-z77x-ud5h, alternat mobo was a MSI Z77MA-g45.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> normally it is on a pwm splitter supplied by swiftech with the h220. however i set straight on the mobo as well. i tried removing the pin for speed from the mobo which sent the fans all to 100% on the splitter did not change status of pump from not pumping. swapped pwm splitter as i owned a second one, used in a non water cooled case. and tried it plugged into another mobo directly same issue. in each case it will still start back up unless left off longer than about 45 min. as mentioned above swapped psu and on the modular psu swapped molex cable
> 
> main mobo is a gigabyte - ga-z77x-ud5h, alternat mobo was a MSI Z77MA-g45.


Sounds to me like a BIOS issue, in which the CPU fan is only activated at a certain temperature. So after 45 min. everything would be cold, so the pump wouldn't be activated until it warms up. Possibility?


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sounds to me like a BIOS issue, in which the CPU fan is only activated at a certain temperature. So after 45 min. everything would be cold, so the pump wouldn't be activated until it warms up. Possibility?


I def thought that as well. so i tested with another mobo and then sensor wire for the pwm splitter being plugged in so it should have run at full speed but no dice. the run with no sensor was repeated outside the case with another psu same thing... at the time i thought it was dead until after teardown drain refill and it started back up. tested out of case for 48 seemed fine. installed and tested without power 48 seemed fine. tested with benchmarks worked great. then after a few weeks had to leave the tower without power for a bit and bam no start back up. i remembered the first time i had issue i was moving SSDs on my setup and had left it shut down while working on the other tower before moving back to my main one. . further testing replicated the issue and brings me to where i am now... i can use it fine unless i have to leave my tower powered off for a bit.

I have not really figured out what gets it going .... heat does not seem to do it, as I found out the pump was not working by an alarm i have set for temps hitting 85c on the cpu, (under full load of gpu and cpu never gets close when pump is running).


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just purchased the thing two minutes ago. I paid a total of around $185 US. I even used the Canada Express mail (4-7 days) instead of the UPS (5-8 days).


How did you pay in $CAD when you live in the states?
Also on NCIX it says Pre-order, how did you get yours? I thought it's not out yet.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How did you pay in $CAD when you live in the states?
> Also on NCIX it says Pre-order, how did you get yours? I thought it's not out yet.


Paypal does the conversion. Also, yes you are right, I only per-ordered it.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Paypal does the conversion. Also, yes you are right, I only per-ordered it.


Oh I see so you paid with Paypal? What is the conversion ? Is it almost 1:1 ratio? How much is $159CAD in $US?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> I def thought that as well. so i tested with another mobo and then sensor wire for the pwm splitter being plugged in so it should have run at full speed but no dice. the run with no sensor was repeated outside the case with another psu same thing... at the time i thought it was dead until after teardown drain refill and it started back up. tested out of case for 48 seemed fine. installed and tested without power 48 seemed fine. tested with benchmarks worked great. then after a few weeks had to leave the tower without power for a bit and bam no start back up. i remembered the first time i had issue i was moving SSDs on my setup and had left it shut down while working on the other tower before moving back to my main one. . further testing replicated the issue and brings me to where i am now... i can use it fine unless i have to leave my tower powered off for a bit.
> 
> I have not really figured out what gets it going .... heat does not seem to do it, as I found out the pump was not working by an alarm i have set for temps hitting 85c on the cpu, (under full load of gpu and cpu never gets close when pump is running).


it is possible your mobos are still using volts to control it. and the voltage being sent is not enough to start it, which mobo are you using? are you using the cpu header? did you set the header to pwm control ?


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is possible your mobos are still using volts to control it. and the voltage being sent is not enough to start it, which mobo are you using? are you using the cpu header? did you set the header to pwm control ?


main mobo is a gigabyte - ga-z77x-ud5h, alternat mobo was a MSI Z77MA-g45. also tried with splitter included in the h220 powered by molex and alternate splitter from swiftech. with control line in and out, two psus

i made sure to set the UDH5 to pwm i left it set to normal the other option is quite and manual. I had tried manual with the most volt per degree on the slope .... i cannot remember if the setting was offered on the g45, but on that mobo set the minimum speed to 75%


----------



## Mega Man

i can tell you that controlling pwm with volts can damage the pwm board... rest ill have to defer to bram


----------



## dallas1990

I have just fans on the pwm splitter. The pump is on the CPU header. Though 9 fans total lol 3 intake to 1 exhaust


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> so I have a question for you guys. I have expanded my loop h220 and have been happy with performance. I have no issues when the tower is running (almost always 24/7) or if i have to restart. however, as of late if i leave my tower off for more than say about 45 min the pump does not start back up. have tested with multiple psu, and checked the pump cabling and all psu cabling for damage. none seen. i have had to tear down the loop twice. not really sure what got it to work again. i had torn down the loop to check for gunk, grim but none showed up in the filter
> 
> any ideas on whats causing this?
> 
> I am using the new blue hydrox for the loop, the loop has an EK 7970 lightning block, a swiftech mcr120-qp, and a mcres micro rev2 reservoir


The pump wont start if there is too much air in the block causing too much friction. This is gonna sound crazy but if pump doesnt start you gotta give it a nice slap.

When you were installing and uninstalling it you helped loosen that air and thats what got it running again. The new pump parts should help keep air out so we'll see.

Bram is on vacation so he may not chime in for about a week or two but I had same problem and that was his explanation and the slap worked.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> The pump wont start if there is too much air in the block causing too much friction. This is gonna sound crazy but if pump doesnt start you gotta give it a nice slap.
> 
> When you were installing and uninstalling it you helped loosen that air and thats what got it running again. The new pump parts should help keep air out so we'll see.
> 
> Bram is on vacation so he may not chime in for about a week or two but I had same problem and that was his explanation and the slap worked.


I am getting an H320 delivered in less than a week. Is it likely to have the new pump parts???


----------



## gdubc

I haven't seen anything official about there being any new parts. The only thing I have ever seen about that is one persons post a while back, but nothing official about any upgrades as far as I know.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I am getting an H320 delivered in less than a week. Is it likely to have the new pump parts???


How are you getting it delivered within a week when it's not out yet?


----------



## bobsaget

I'm going to start the expansion of my H220 soon. Is it important to add another res though? It will probably be located under the pump.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I've had my H220 for almost 2 months now, And it's still working without any problems (knock on wood). Only thing i have changed up, is the pump isn't running at max speed anymore. I have it fluctuate now depending on temp.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I'm going to start the expansion of my H220 soon. Is it important to add another res though? It will probably be located under the pump.


res really isn't helpful unless it's the top of the loop...


----------



## Zillerella

Hello H220 onwers.

I got a question. Does the on fitting on the pump block a ram slot if I want to turn the pump the "original" way?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Hello H220 onwers.
> 
> I got a question. Does the on fitting on the pump block a ram slot if I want to turn the pump the "original" way?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


That would depend on your MB and ram...


----------



## Sasame87

I have received my H220 in and have installed another 240mm rad and a 120mm rad. will be adding in a larger resivoir soon and my gpu blocks. hopefully the pump will handle it all or i will add an extra pump. if temps hold well or if i want better i will also install a water chiller onto the loop


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How are you getting it delivered within a week when it's not out yet?


There are people that already have them.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> The new pump parts should help keep air out so we'll see.


This is the second time you have posted new pump parts coming soon. Did you receive official correspondence or just insider info regarding this information?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> There are people that already have them.


But where are these p eople buy them from? NCIX still say Pre-order on their website. Even the H220 still say Pre-order on NCIX.

So I'm wondering where are you guys ordering the H200 and the new H320 from? I can't buy cause im in the states.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But where are these p eople buy them from? NCIX still say Pre-order on their website. Even the H220 still say Pre-order on NCIX.
> 
> So I'm wondering where are you guys ordering the H200 and the new H320 from? I can't buy cause im in the states.


I have seen people talk about getting them from Canada and talking about shipping prices, so, NCIX comes to mind. You could always go check back pages and PM someone, find out the juicy details.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> The new pump parts should help keep air out so we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the second time you have posted new pump parts coming soon. Did you receive official correspondence or just insider info regarding this information?
Click to expand...

Insider info.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But where are these p eople buy them from? NCIX still say Pre-order on their website. Even the H220 still say Pre-order on NCIX.
> 
> So I'm wondering where are you guys ordering the H200 and the new H320 from? I can't buy cause im in the states.


Ncix.ca The expected arrival date at ncix.ca is August 9.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Ncix.ca The expected arrival date at ncix.ca is August 9.


Aug 9 for the H320? or the H220? Cause even the H220 says pre-order on NCIX.ca


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Aug 9 for the H320? or the H220? Cause even the H220 says pre-order on NCIX.ca


For both.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> For both.


Do you think this H320 will be sold out as soon as they have them in stock? Like if I don't pre order right now, I'll prob not gonna be able to get it. Not sure how many ppl really want this cooler.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> For both.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think this H320 will be sold out as soon as they have them in stock? Like if I don't pre order right now, I'll prob not gonna be able to get it. Not sure how many ppl really want this cooler.
Click to expand...

If you do not pre-order, a good chance they wont see extra. As it will be sold out very fast.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you do not pre-order, a good chance they wont see extra. As it will be sold out very fast.


Do you think it's too late now to Pre - order if it comes out in 2 more days?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you think it's too late now to Pre - order if it comes out in 2 more days?


Just go try, it cant hurt.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just go try, it cant hurt.


Yea, NCIX loves to hold your money for months with stuff on back order


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Yea, NCIX loves to hold your money for months with stuff on back order


Do they really do that, or are you joking?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you think this H320 will be sold out as soon as they have them in stock? Like if I don't pre order right now, I'll prob not gonna be able to get it. Not sure how many ppl really want this cooler.


Not sure. When I placed my order 2 weeks ago, I was first in the que.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Do they really do that, or are you joking?


Yes, they are more than happy to take your money in preorder and have a non specific ETA.


----------



## jincuteguy

Ok so how do you guys get them to ship to the states? Cause if I order anything from NCIX.CA when I go to checkout, it doesn't give me the options to ship to the 50 states, only the states in Canada. So how did you guys get the shipping options to ship to the states?

Ok nvm I found it.

So do you guys think this H320 really worth the $160 ($180 with shipping for ppl in the states)? I wonder what would be the performance difference when compare to the Corsair H100i or the NZXT X60.


----------



## Tomasu82

After getting my RMA unit a while back, it was running awesomely for quite a while under full cpu (AMD FX-8320 125W+) and gpu load (2-4 gpus at a time), and the h220 wasn't having any issues what so ever. Sadly, one of the gpu's failed and I was too busy to do any diagnosing (turns out it's a siezed fan) at the time, so I just shut the computer down and left it off for a few weeks now.

The unit seems to be making gurgling noises now. A quick look shows no signs of leaking, and I haven't modded it at all. I suspect its air in the tubes, but how did it get in there? and what should I do to get rid of the noise? I half suspect that since it was kind of sudden, it will just go away after running for a while, but I'm not an expert on these things.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How are you getting it delivered within a week when it's not out yet?






it has been out a while now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> res really isn't helpful unless it's the top of the loop...






why does everyone think this? this is not always true you can block air pretty easily, however it does work better at the top. other wise it is better to have it above the pump


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Hello H220 onwers.
> 
> I got a question. Does the on fitting on the pump block a ram slot if I want to turn the pump the "original" way?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That would depend on your MB and ram...





+1


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomasu82*
> 
> After getting my RMA unit a while back, it was running awesomely for quite a while under full cpu (AMD FX-8320 125W+) and gpu load (2-4 gpus at a time), and the h220 wasn't having any issues what so ever. Sadly, one of the gpu's failed and I was too busy to do any diagnosing (turns out it's a siezed fan) at the time, so I just shut the computer down and left it off for a few weeks now.
> 
> The unit seems to be making gurgling noises now. A quick look shows no signs of leaking, and I haven't modded it at all. I suspect its air in the tubes, but how did it get in there? and what should I do to get rid of the noise? I half suspect that since it was kind of sudden, it will just go away after running for a while, but I'm not an expert on these things.






water evaporates through walls of plastic tubing. among several other things...


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Ok so how do you guys get them to ship to the states? Cause if I order anything from NCIX.CA when I go to checkout, it doesn't give me the options to ship to the 50 states, only the states in Canada. So how did you guys get the shipping options to ship to the states?
> 
> Ok nvm I found it.
> 
> So do you guys think this H320 really worth the $160 ($180 with shipping for ppl in the states)? I wonder what would be the performance difference when compare to the Corsair H100i or the NZXT X60.


No more hand holding. Man up and work it out in your own mind. You are definitely OCD.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Entei*
> 
> 
> 
> 1st post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can i join the club?


Nice loop








What temps do you have?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Nice loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temps do you have?


In this picture, how did you fill up the loop without an actual reservoir? I know the reservoir is attached to the original Rad that comes with the H220, but when you add extra Rad and gpu block, how do you fill it up inside the case?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> In this picture, how did you fill up the loop without an actual reservoir? I know the reservoir is attached to the original Rad that comes with the H220, but when you add extra Rad and gpu block, how do you fill it up inside the case?


If he can reach the fill port on the H220 res, then thats how. I could pop the top of my case off and the port is right there.


----------



## bobsaget

I gave up on the full watercooling project in the bitfenix prodigy. It isn't cheap, and it's going to be very hard to fit everything in such a tight enclosure. Plus I'm leaving France next January for 6 months, and i have to start saving money. I will probably do a full loop in my next ATX build when i come back.

But I'm planning to make some changes. The tubing of the H220 is way too long for the Prodigy, and I'm still having air bubbles issues. That is why I would like to shorten the tubing and only leave whats necessary. Plus it will look cleaner.

I wonder though if I can use the same coolant? Or should i buy a new one? Is it a good idea to filter the cooland and reuse it (by using coffee filter for instance)?

And if I use the same coolant, should i "wash" the rad and waterblock before reinstalling everything?

thanks


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I gave up on the full watercooling project in the bitfenix prodigy. It isn't cheap, and it's going to be very hard to fit everything in such a tight enclosure. Plus I'm leaving France next January for 6 months, and i have to start saving money. I will probably do a full loop in my next ATX build when i come back.
> 
> But I'm planning to make some changes. The tubing of the H220 is way too long for the Prodigy, and I'm still having air bubbles issues. That is why I would like to shorten the tubing and only leave whats necessary. Plus it will look cleaner.
> 
> I wonder though if I can use the same coolant? Or should i buy a new one? Is it a good idea to filter the cooland and reuse it (by using coffee filter for instance)?
> 
> And if I use the same coolant, should i "wash" the rad and waterblock before reinstalling everything?
> 
> thanks


I would not reuse the coolant. There was quite a bit of plasticizer in my H220 loop from the factory after only a month and a half. This was an RMA unit too, tested by Bryan who is on these forums.

Coolant is cheap and you will need more anyway to refill it fully.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> In this picture, how did you fill up the loop without an actual reservoir? I know the reservoir is attached to the original Rad that comes with the H220, but when you add extra Rad and gpu block, how do you fill it up inside the case?


I filled from the top. Poked a hole in the case and filled from there. But I will say that once the rad/res was "full" getting air from the loop was a nightmare.



My loop is clean but the pump started failing (again). I thought it was good after some air got caught in the pump before doing this (making any changes) and reporting it to Bryan. But it seems the pump is just flaky, like the last one. So frustrating.

My temps are pretty lame in this case, which I loath... This 650D is not for modders and has little room for cables.

Temps for the GPU's are:

Min 36C - Max 65C (using Kompressor stress test)

Gaming in BF3 takes the cards to 59C and they never break that.

I keep the case open now because the temps just get too high. I guess I need more exhaust, but this case is just lame in general.

]


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> ]


I want build some like that (CPU+2xGPUs), but i don't choose yet. What temps do you have?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I gave up on the full watercooling project in the bitfenix prodigy. It isn't cheap, and it's going to be very hard to fit everything in such a tight enclosure. Plus I'm leaving France next January for 6 months, and i have to start saving money. I will probably do a full loop in my next ATX build when i come back.
> 
> But I'm planning to make some changes. The tubing of the H220 is way too long for the Prodigy, and I'm still having air bubbles issues. That is why I would like to shorten the tubing and only leave whats necessary. Plus it will look cleaner.
> 
> I wonder though if I can use the same coolant? Or should i buy a new one? Is it a good idea to filter the cooland and reuse it (by using coffee filter for instance)?
> 
> And if I use the same coolant, should i "wash" the rad and waterblock before reinstalling everything?
> 
> thanks


It's been done, not a a problem. Just strain it through a coffe filter first.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> I want build some like that (CPU+2xGPUs), but i don't choose yet. What temps do you have?


Not great... but they sit at 34C - 64C under stress test. Normal load for gaming is 55C max. Still better than the screaming fans and 70C.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It's been done, not a a problem. Just strain it through a coffe filter first.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I would not reuse the coolant. There was quite a bit of plasticizer in my H220 loop from the factory after only a month and a half. This was an RMA unit too, tested by Bryan who is on these forums.
> 
> Coolant is cheap and you will need more anyway to refill it fully.


Ok well i guess i'll reuse the coolant depending on the presence of debris/plasticizer.

Btw, is it ok to use this adapter to power the PWM splitter? It would be great to get rid of a massive useless molex cable..
http://www.startech.com/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/6inch-SATA-to-LP4-Power-Cable-Adapter-Female-to-Male~LP4SATAFM6IN


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

That is fine to use, molex to sata.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I filled from the top. Poked a hole in the case and filled from there. But I will say that once the rad/res was "full" getting air from the loop was a nightmare.
> 
> 
> 
> My loop is clean but the pump started failing (again). I thought it was good after some air got caught in the pump before doing this (making any changes) and reporting it to Bryan. But it seems the pump is just flaky, like the last one. So frustrating.
> 
> My temps are pretty lame in this case, which I loath... This 650D is not for modders and has little room for cables.
> 
> Temps for the GPU's are:
> 
> Min 36C - Max 65C (using Kompressor stress test)
> 
> Gaming in BF3 takes the cards to 59C and they never break that.
> 
> I keep the case open now because the temps just get too high. I guess I need more exhaust, but this case is just lame in general.
> 
> ]


You have like 3 Radiators in your system, how can your temps be that high? Maybe the Swiftech H220 Pump isn't live up to the hype?


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is fine to use, molex to sata.


ok ty


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Ok well i guess i'll reuse the coolant depending on the presence of debris/plasticizer./quote]
> 
> Yup... makes sense.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You have like 3 Radiators in your system, how can your temps be that high? Maybe the Swiftech H220 Pump isn't live up to the hype?


No... just a 120 add for the back, and the rad that comes with the H220 up top. The pump is running on the CPU PWM connector.

This is where it sits as I type this:


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> No... just a 120 add for the back, and the rad that comes with the H220 up top. The pump is running on the CPU PWM connector.
> 
> This is where it sits as I type this:


Yea i see you're idling at 40C, same for me here, not sure how ppl can have idling at like 30-33C. What is your overclock? cpu voltage/


----------



## k-ocn

hi these are also usable http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RA-MOLEX-SATA-Female-15-Pin-Adapter/dp/B00558ON64/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375983413&sr=8-2&keywords=SATA+15pin+%28male%29+to+Molex+4pin+%28female%29+Adaptor

uk

http://www.maplin.co.uk/sata-15pin-male-to-molex-4pin-female-adaptor-346523

been using one for a while matches in well


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You have like 3 Radiators in your system, how can your temps be that high? Maybe the Swiftech H220 Pump isn't live up to the hype?


That's what im thinking. I added 2 additional ut60 240mm rads with the h220 cooling a i7 [email protected] + 2 gtx titan and my intelburn test heaters the cpu to 90C and gpus go up to 55C. I'm using 4x noctua nf f12 + 2 H220 stock swiftech fans
everything is setup in pull only (bringing fresh outside air into the pc).
Ambient at 24-26C


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> That's what im thinking. I added 2 additional ut60 240mm rads with the h220 cooling a i7 [email protected] + 2 gtx titan and my intelburn test heaters the cpu to 90C and gpus go up to 55C. I'm using 4x noctua nf f12 + 2 H220 stock swiftech fans
> everything is setup in pull only (bringing fresh outside air into the pc).
> Ambient at 24-26C


Yea i think we still need a D5 pump if we want to go the custom route. Also aren't pulling cold air from outside get more dust into your system?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> That's what im thinking. I added 2 additional ut60 240mm rads with the h220 cooling a i7 [email protected] + 2 gtx titan and my intelburn test heaters the cpu to 90C and gpus go up to 55C. I'm using 4x noctua nf f12 + 2 H220 stock swiftech fans
> everything is setup in pull only (bringing fresh outside air into the pc).
> Ambient at 24-26C


Link your graphics cards into the loop in parallel instead of series (what you have now) and you'll cut your flow resistance down substantially and likely see better temps as well.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea i think we still need a D5 pump if we want to go the custom route. Also aren't pulling cold air from outside get more dust into your system?


The pump is plenty strong for his setup as long as it is set up properly. 3 rads + 3 blocks is near the limits of its performance, but can easily be done. Cooling the gpus in parallel instead of series will cut down resistance drastically. The the gpu blocks and the pump were the only things in a loop, flow would increase 50% in parallel over series.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea i see you're idling at 40C, same for me here, not sure how ppl can have idling at like 30-33C. What is your overclock? cpu voltage/




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The pump is plenty strong for his setup as long as it is set up properly. 3 rads + 3 blocks is near the limits of its performance, but can easily be done. Cooling the gpus in parallel instead of series will cut down resistance drastically. The the gpu blocks and the pump were the only things in a loop, flow would increase 50% in parallel over series.


Agreed... I did a little research on this based on the pumps specs and I can see I get some real nice flow with what I have in the loop now using a parallel loop. I think just adding a decent res and switching out that stock rad would do the trick. Probably lower temps a notch too if the res was the right size. I'm thinking of using a 200mm res for this and a higher quality, slightly deeper rad.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Link your graphics cards into the loop in parallel instead of series (what you have now) and you'll cut your flow resistance down substantially and likely see better temps as well.


I actually had them in parallel prior to series and the temps were identical.
I had a problem where the parallel connectors leaked so i switched to my current configuration.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I actually had them in parallel prior to series and the temps were identical.
> I had a problem where the parallel connectors leaked so i switched to my current configuration.


You can just get a couple more fittings, and switch the bottom 2, and be running parallel. Like I said, even if the temps are the same, flow will be much better. But if the temps are the same, it means there is plenty of flow anyway.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You can just get a couple more fittings, and switch the bottom 2, and be running parallel. Like I said, even if the temps are the same, flow will be much better. But if the temps are the same, it means there is plenty of flow anyway.


Good point, thx


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Good point, thx












You may also even try reseating the CPU, though the contact point on the H220 is particularly designed for the smaller 1155/1150 die, so it is not quite as optimal for 2011.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The pump is plenty strong for his setup as long as it is set up properly. 3 rads + 3 blocks is near the limits of its performance, but can easily be done. Cooling the gpus in parallel instead of series will cut down resistance drastically. The the gpu blocks and the pump were the only things in a loop, flow would increase 50% in parallel over series.


I thought parallel GPUs are more restrictive than in series.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea i think we still need a D5 pump if we want to go the custom route. Also aren't pulling cold air from outside get more dust into your system?


I understand that the pump works better if you have another blocks or rads.


----------



## El Media Vida

For True, someone has some loop with 2x240rad or H320+240rad with CPU+2 xGPUs? I want know what temps have, i want build some like that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> I thought parallel GPUs are more restrictive than in series.
> I understand that the pump works better if you have another blocks or rads.


That is because apparently the h220 rad is very high in restriction if I recall correctly. These were the results I saw in Martin's test. So, putting a different rad and reservoir and the flow should be plenty. However, on the other side, if you are buying all these parts separately then perhaps you shouldn't consider the h220 in the first place...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> I thought parallel GPUs are more restrictive than in series....


no. Series has all the water run through both blocks, one after the other. Parallel has half of the water run through each block and rejoin after each, improving flow dramatically.


----------



## drnilly007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> I want build some like that (CPU+2xGPUs), but i don't choose yet. What temps do you have?
> 
> 
> 
> Not great... but they sit at 34C - 64C under stress test. Normal load for gaming is 55C max. Still better than the screaming fans and 70C.
Click to expand...

Add another rad for better temps 64 is high.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I filled from the top. Poked a hole in the case and filled from there. But I will say that once the rad/res was "full" getting air from the loop was a nightmare.
> 
> 
> 
> My loop is clean but the pump started failing (again). I thought it was good after some air got caught in the pump before doing this (making any changes) and reporting it to Bryan. But it seems the pump is just flaky, like the last one. So frustrating.
> 
> My temps are pretty lame in this case, which I loath... This 650D is not for modders and has little room for cables.
> 
> Temps for the GPU's are:
> 
> Min 36C - Max 65C (using Kompressor stress test)
> 
> Gaming in BF3 takes the cards to 59C and they never break that.
> 
> I keep the case open now because the temps just get too high. I guess I need more exhaust, but this case is just lame in general.
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> You have like 3 Radiators in your system, how can your temps be that high? Maybe the Swiftech H220 Pump isn't live up to the hype?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You have like 3 Radiators in your system, how can your temps be that high? Maybe the Swiftech H220 Pump isn't live up to the hype?
> 
> 
> 
> No... just a 120 add for the back, and the rad that comes with the H220 up top. The pump is running on the CPU PWM connector.
> 
> This is where it sits as I type this:
Click to expand...

DO NOT run pump off of mobo you'll kill the pump.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> Add another rad for better temps 64 is high.
> 
> DO NOT run pump off of mobo you'll kill the pump.


I don't have a choice ATM. The PWM adapter / hub / splitter they sent to use with it died yesterday... not really liking Swiftech's quality so far. I don't usually name my rigs, but if I do... this one will be called *Cursed*!!


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> DO NOT run pump off of mobo you'll kill the pump.


Why would you tell him you'll kill the pump, a lot of people run from the MB CPU pwm fan controller. It was designed for either.

Swiftech's own advertisement "Both the pump and the fans are PWM compliant devices, allowing the H220 to be recognized and speed-controlled by the motherboard depending on CPU temperature like any standard CPU cooler. As a bonus, the system includes a PWM splitter allowing connection of up to 8 PWM devices which can then be controlled as one by the motherboard."


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Why would you tell him you'll kill the pump, a lot of people run from the MB CPU pwm fan controller. It was designed for either.
> 
> Swiftech's own advertisement "Both the pump and the fans are PWM compliant devices, allowing the H220 to be recognized and speed-controlled by the motherboard depending on CPU temperature like any standard CPU cooler. As a bonus, the system includes a PWM splitter allowing connection of up to 8 PWM devices which can then be controlled as one by the motherboard."


He was probably saying it that way since it's easier than saying, "make absolutely sure your motherboard is modulating the pump with PWM signal and not voltage because voltage modulation will damage the pump, and many motherboard manufacturers are not clear online or in their manuals whether the 4 pin cpu header is pwm or if it's actually voltage controled.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Why would you tell him you'll kill the pump, a lot of people run from the MB CPU pwm fan controller. It was designed for either.
> 
> Swiftech's own advertisement "Both the pump and the fans are PWM compliant devices, allowing the H220 to be recognized and speed-controlled by the motherboard depending on CPU temperature like any standard CPU cooler. As a bonus, the system includes a PWM splitter allowing connection of up to 8 PWM devices which can then be controlled as one by the motherboard."


^ This ^


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm pretty sure the ASUS Rampage IV Formula has at least one pwm cpu fan header


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the ASUS Rampage IV Formula has at least one pwm cpu fan header


I wish I knew if my Maximus V formula had one.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I wish I knew if my Maximus V formula had one.


All the headers on the maximum v formula that are not labeled as chassis fans are pwm. The chassis fans are voltage controlled.


----------



## jincuteguy

Aren't all those 4pin headers on motherboard are PWM? And the 3pin headers are voltage control? I have the Sabertooth Z77 board, is the CPU Header the only PWM? Cause pretty much all of the other headers are called Chassis fan 1-4 and they all have 4pin.


----------



## gdubc

Not always. The manual will usually tell. The sabretooth headers are all pwm according to the manual. The chassis fan headers of the formula are four pin but they are at up as ground-power-signal-5v and the true pwm headers are ground-power-signal-pwm.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not always. The manual will usually tell. The sabretooth headers are all pwm according to the manual. The chassis fan headers of the formula are four pin but they are at up as ground-power-signal-5v and the true pwm headers are ground-power-signal-pwm.


Oh ok yea I have the Sabertooth Z77 board, glad all of the 4pin headers are PWM, I just checked the manual too, thx for clarifying them









I forgot to ask you one more thing. Are all the pumps from these Asetek / CoolIT based like the corsair H100i, H80i, H110, NZXT X40 / X60, Thermaltake Water 3.0, etc...like are all the pumps from these AIO coolers adjustable? Like can you run the pump speed according to the temperature? Or does it have to run at the max speed at always? Because I checked the spec of all the pumps from these AIO coolers, they're all pretty much like 2500rpm +/- 200rpm.


----------



## gdubc

I can't say for sure about all of them but all the ones i have had have been adjustable by voltage, h220 excepted. I have a couple different zalmans and a kraken and they all use voltage. The zalmans that light up, the light gets brighter when the pump is running faster.


----------



## michael-ocn

I've been running an asetek550 for 3yrs. Pump is powered via a 3pin plug, its runs at 100% all the time on the SYSFAN header of the mobo. It's adjustable by voltage regulation, but its really more designed to run at constant speed (afaict).


----------



## Thorgasm

ff


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> Hello, i need help. I used the 8 long silver screws to mount my radiator to my case with the fans on the bottom. Was i supposed to use the long screws to mount the radiator to the case or did i damage the fins underneath.


if you put the screws through the radiator (Case=>rad=>fans) then you damaged the unit


----------



## Thorgasm

'


----------



## Thorgasm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> if you put the screws through the radiator (Case=>rad=>fans) then you damaged the unit


It is performing well and it is mounted the way i wanted it. Should i be worried?


----------



## Phelan

Most AIOs are voltage controlled, buy they are of a different design. It all has to do with the design of the PCB in the pump/fan. The H220 (and Apogee Drive II, MCP655-PWM, and Helix PWM fans, for that matter) are designed exclusively for PWM control will be damaged when run on voltage control. How long it takes is somewhat random, but it is a matter of when, not if. The MCP655 and Helix fans have voltage-controlled variants that will not be damaged with voltage control. I believe the MCP35X is PWM-only as well, but I don't remember.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Oh ok yea I have the Sabertooth Z77 board, glad all of the 4pin headers are PWM, I just checked the manual too, thx for clarifying them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to ask you one more thing. Are all the pumps from these Asetek / CoolIT based like the corsair H100i, H80i, H110, NZXT X40 / X60, Thermaltake Water 3.0, etc...like are all the pumps from these AIO coolers adjustable? Like can you run the pump speed according to the temperature? Or does it have to run at the max speed at always? Because I checked the spec of all the pumps from these AIO coolers, they're all pretty much like 2500rpm +/- 200rpm.


This is the Swiftech H220-H320 owners club. Go to the general watercooling forum for your answers since you don't intend to buy the Swiftech product. I knew you were OCD and would wind up shooting yourself in your foot. Get a life.


----------



## os2wiz

Phelan, do you remember some earlier post mentioning that Swiftech was going to make the radiator slightly thicker to relieve the flow restriction issue in the radiator?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Phelan, do you remember some earlier post mentioing that Swiftech was going to make the radiator slightly thicker to relieve the flow restriction issue in the radiator?


I haven't seen a post of such. The main reason for the flow restriction in the swivel barbs anyway, not the rad itself. The core is similar to the mcr220-qp-res, but with a couple moved water channels so that over-tightened screws that push through don't create leaks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> It is performing well and it is mounted the way i wanted it. Should i be worried?


See my above post. The unit is damaged aesthetically from this but because the fins behind the screws don't see air flow really anyway, you won't see a performance difference. The H220 rad is unique in the regard that it won't leak if screws are over-tightened, unlike all other AIOs.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> It is performing well and it is mounted the way i wanted it. Should i be worried?


If temps are fine and you have no leaks, don't worry one bit.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> This is the Swiftech H220-H320 owners club. Go to the general watercooling forum for your answers since you don't intend to buy the Swiftech product. I knew you were OCD and would wind up shooting yourself in your foot. Get a life.


Getting mad over someone needed infos on the internet? Calm down man.

It's the 9th, NCIX still doesn't have H320 in stock.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorgasm*
> 
> It is performing well and it is mounted the way i wanted it. Should i be worried?


Kinda, if you used all 8 screws. That is not small damage. The long screws are to mount extra fans on the bottom. You use normal fan screws to mount the rad as it was.
If you need to flip the rad, with fans on bottom use the short screws that was used to mount the fans to mount the rad to case. Use long screws to secure the fans.

What case you have?
Do you have the fill port up or down?
Take pictures showing the fins.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Getting mad over someone needed infos on the internet? Calm down man.
> 
> It's the 9th, NCIX still doesn't have H320 in stock.


No sir. I am not mad that you need information. But you are way over the top. Once you decided because of your O.C.D. not to deal with Swiftech, there is no reason for you to be here, The title of the forum is quite clear. You can go to the Corsair forum or any other water cooling forum here and get the information you need now. I answered 2 private messages from you and at least 3 public messages. Most of which were unnecessary if you bothered to do a minimum of research. You can hire a therapist if you need hand holding or just use what god gave you and do a few Google searches.


----------



## michael-ocn

os2wiz, to be fair, this post of yours doesn't really belong in this thread either and is less relevant then general water cooling talk... /ducks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> No sir. I am not mad that you need information. But you are way over the top. Once you decided because of your O.C.D. not to deal with Swiftech, there is no reason for you to be here, The title of the forum is quite clear. You can go to the Corsair forum or any other water cooling forum here and get the information you need now. I answered 2 private messages from you and at least 3 public messages. Most of which were unnecessary if you bothered to do a minimum of research. You can hire a therapist if you need hand holding or just use what god gave you and do a few Google searches.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Oh ok yea I have the Sabertooth Z77 board, glad all of the 4pin headers are PWM, I just checked the manual too, thx for clarifying them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to ask you one more thing. Are all the pumps from these Asetek / CoolIT based like the corsair H100i, H80i, H110, NZXT X40 / X60, Thermaltake Water 3.0, etc...like are all the pumps from these AIO coolers adjustable? Like can you run the pump speed according to the temperature? Or does it have to run at the max speed at always? Because I checked the spec of all the pumps from these AIO coolers, they're all pretty much like 2500rpm +/- 200rpm.


All AIOs except the Coolermaster Eisenburg and the Swiftech H220/320 use eithrr an Asetek or Cool-It pump, rated at about .25gpm, and all run about 2200-2500rpm. They are 1.2w pumps and have a molex or sata plug that powers the pump with 12v regardless of the mobo's voltage output. Any less than 12v won't let the pump flow enough coolant to perform as expected. The H220/320 pump, OTOH, is 6w, rated at 1gpm, so it is essentially 4x as powerful as the asetek/cool-it units, which is why rpm fluctuation via pwm is available, to keep noise down.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> All AIOs except the Coolermaster Eisenburg and the Swiftech H220/320 use eithrr an Asetek or Cool-It pump, rated at about .25gpm, and all run about 2200-2500rpm. They are 1.2w pumps and have a molex or sata plug that powers the pump with 12v regardless of the mobo's voltage output. Any less than 12v won't let the pump flow enough coolant to perform as expected. The H220/320 pump, OTOH, is 6w, rated at 1gpm, so it is essentially 4x as powerful as the asetek/cool-it units, which is why rpm fluctuation via pwm is available, to keep noise down.


Thank you Phelan for the information







really appreciated, not like some other people. I am planning to buy the Swiftech H320 when NCIX have it in stock. Right now I'm using the Silverstone TD-02, the H320 should be a bit better in term of performance.


----------



## Imprezzion

Bought a H220 as well. I didn't really want to wait for the H320 to become available and I got plans to upgrade the rad to something like a Alphacool NexXxos UT-60 360mm rad later on.

But, one serious question.. I usually use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM and I just want to check and be sure that I can use it safely with the H220.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Bought a H220 as well. I didn't really want to wait for the H320 to become available and I got plans to upgrade the rad to something like a Alphacool NexXxos UT-60 360mm rad later on.
> 
> But, one serious question.. I usually use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM and I just want to check and be sure that I can use it safely with the H220.


Using CLU for a delidded CPU underneath the IHS, or between the IHS and the CPU water block? Cause CLU is not really for using other than on the die.


----------



## Imprezzion

Why wouldn't it be for using on IHS to block? That's what it's made for in the first place..

People use it for Die to IHS as it performs the best and resembles soldering the most.

I've used numerous units of CLU in total. Even my Lightning is done with CLU.

Only problem with it is aluminum. It can't go with that but I assume the block has a copper base?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Why wouldn't it be for using on IHS to block? That's what it's made for in the first place..
> 
> People use it for Die to IHS as it performs the best and resembles soldering the most.
> 
> I've used numerous units of CLU in total. Even my Lightning is done with CLU.
> 
> Only problem with it is aluminum. It can't go with that but I assume the block has a copper base?


The people that use it almost all of them use CLU in the delidding process, then use anything else on the outside. Arctic silver etc.


----------



## Beatwolf

I found somewhere that still sells the 220. Does anyone know if it will fit the Corsair 550D case. I found one or two places claiming the will probably fit. If anyone knows with more certainty that would be much appreciated. Or is there a new version released in the next couple of months?


----------



## Dudewitbow

a user on this page barely got it to fit. he included pictures and how he did it.


----------



## bond32

Well after shorting out my 7970, I have decided to downsize and just cool my cpu with the good ole h220, stock with the stock rad, stock fans. On the plus side it was much easier to bleed air out and I actually have all the air out now. Will need to replace the fans as they seem to be noisy now (were not before).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Well after shorting out my 7970, I have decided to downsize and just cool my cpu with the good ole h220, stock with the stock rad, stock fans. On the plus side it was much easier to bleed air out and I actually have all the air out now. Will need to replace the fans as they seem to be noisy now (were not before).


What happened with the 7970?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What happened with the 7970?


NZXT sleeved extension cables, they were poorly crimped in the connector which caused it to short.


----------



## Imprezzion

Have you tried getting it replaced by NZXT? If you have proof the extensions we're faulty..

But still guys, is it safe to use CLU (Liquid Ultra) on the block? Still have some left and it worked wonders on my H100i's temps..


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Have you tried getting it replaced by NZXT? If you have proof the extensions we're faulty..
> 
> But still guys, is it safe to use CLU (Liquid Ultra) on the block? Still have some left and it worked wonders on my H100i's temps..


So far as I known the block is copper. But if you are worried and want to be 100% sure PM Bryan (BRAMSLI), the swiftech representative which usually is around.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So far as I known the block is copper. But if you are worried and want to be 100% sure PM Bryan (BRAMSLI), the swiftech representative which usually is around.


He's on vaca for a week or so... FYI


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I found somewhere that still sells the 220. Does anyone know if it will fit the Corsair 550D case. I found one or two places claiming the will probably fit. If anyone knows with more certainty that would be much appreciated. Or is there a new version released in the next couple of months?


I was able to fit it in mine just barely, covers a little bit of the top of the board.. hoses will be tight ... I moved from stock to a custom setup


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007*
> 
> The pump wont start if there is too much air in the block causing too much friction. This is gonna sound crazy but if pump doesnt start you gotta give it a nice slap.
> 
> When you were installing and uninstalling it you helped loosen that air and thats what got it running again. The new pump parts should help keep air out so we'll see.
> 
> Bram is on vacation so he may not chime in for about a week or two but I had same problem and that was his explanation and the slap worked.


sorry for not replying more quickly I got side tracked with work. So this poses another question would another pump in the loop help this by forcing air out. or would the other pumps work be stalled by the h220 pump in a state of stuck.


----------



## k-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I found somewhere that still sells the 220. Does anyone know if it will fit the Corsair 550D case. I found one or two places claiming the will probably fit. If anyone knows with more certainty that would be much appreciated. Or is there a new version released in the next couple of months?


it will fit 100% go to page 441 find post 4408 tnt & click on the default gallery if you are using an asus p8z68 be sure to plug in all needed cables before
mounting the radiator hope this helps


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Have you tried getting it replaced by NZXT? If you have proof the extensions we're faulty..
> 
> But still guys, is it safe to use CLU (Liquid Ultra) on the block? Still have some left and it worked wonders on my H100i's temps..


Liquid ultra is conductive. A tiny spill from the loop can destroy your cpu. Not a good idea unless your technique is completely flawless.


----------



## Imprezzion

Well, since I even applied it to several (naked die) GPU's and it has gone flawlessly every time I think I have the knowledge of how to apply it for a CPU now









Usually the best way to do it is to apply it to the block, not the CPU. Apply it with the brush in a pattern slightly smaller then the IHS of the CPU. that way it won't overflow as you only need a VERY little bit of it.

My second paste is my 30gr syringe of PK-1 and I also have Gelid GC Extreme, Noctua NT-H1, AS5 and Phanteks paste but the PK-1 consistently performs the best.


----------



## xarot

Hi, having not been reading this thread for 200 pages or so...please excuse me for asking. How is the H320 working out for people? Are there issues like with H220? I got a refund for H220 and installed something else finally tonight - I have to say that the H220 issues made me tired of opening my PC case which was a daily routine for me for years before that.









I was initially going to replace the H220 with a H320, but the issues, a stock unit leak and no coverage by Swiftech with the H220 kept me angry - or more than that - for a good time.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarot*
> 
> Hi, having not been reading this thread for 200 pages or so...please excuse me for asking. How is the H320 working out for people? Are there issues like with H220? I got a refund for H220 and installed something else finally tonight - I have to say that the H220 issues made me tired of opening my PC case which was a daily routine for me for years before that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was initially going to replace the H220 with a H320, but the issues, a stock unit leak and no coverage by Swiftech with the H220 kept me angry - or more than that - for a good time.


Not enough of them sold yet to get an idea. Bottom line is, the only difference is a bigger rad and extra fan I believe.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Not enough of them sold yet to get an idea. Bottom line is, the only difference is a bigger rad and extra fan I believe.


Not true. I think they changed the power connector to sata instead of molex. There are also some other minor differences.


----------



## kikibgd

that was done on h220


----------



## jincuteguy

I don't think anyone on here got a H320 yet. NCIX Canada still doesn't have them and it passed the 9th already.


----------



## tw33k

They are not available on NCIX.CA until after 23 August. My H320 is on order here in Australia and I will get it 21 August. The H220 has been available for a while now here.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I don't think anyone on here got a H320 yet. NCIX Canada still doesn't have them and it passed the 9th already.


I have a H320, 2 weeks ago


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> I have a H320, 2 weeks ago


Did your cpu temp get any improvement over your old one? Also do you know how much is it better compare to the H220 or the H100i?
Also where did you get yours from? Are you in Australia?


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Did your cpu temp get any improvement over your old one? Also do you know how much is it better compare to the H220 or the H100i?
> Also where did you get yours from? Are you in Australia?


I got the H320 from France.

I updated the Corsair H100, for H320 by Swiftech.

Improved temperatures around 10°C with Liguid Pro.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> I got the H320 from France.
> 
> I updated the Corsair H100, for H320 by Swiftech.
> 
> Improved temperatures around 10°C with Liguid Pro.


Did you use the Liquid Pro with the H100 before? Maybe the 10C is from the Liquid Pro.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Did you use the Liquid Pro with the H100 before? Maybe the 10C is from the Liquid Pro.


Yeps, I using only Liquid Pro !! now and before with H100


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> Yeps, I using only Liquid Pro !! now and before with H100


Dang if you get 10C cooler with the H320 over your H100, that is a pretty significant jump in performance. Cause I know the H220 is about the same performance as the H100, maybe 2-3C cooler. I thought it was gonna be like 3-5C difference but I guess i was wrong. Just want to make sure, you had the Corsair H100, not the new H100i right?


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dang if you get 10C cooler with the H320 over your H100, that is a pretty significant jump in performance. Cause I know the H220 is about the same performance as the H100, maybe 2-3C cooler. I thought it was gonna be like 3-5C difference but I guess i was wrong. Just want to make sure, you had the Corsair H100, not the new H100i right?






The pictures is talk for me !!!

And yeah man, around the 10ºC difference. But the H100i is better than H100, from all reviews:

H100 < H100i=H220 < H320
0ºC < 5ºC < 10ºC


----------



## Imprezzion

We shall see.. I used to use a H100i but as it's RMA I ordered a H220 which I plan to add a 360 60mm thick rad to later on.

I know exactly what temps my H100i pulled at specific clocks and voltages and I will re-test them with the H220. All tests will be done using Liquid Ultra TIM between the IHS and the block.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> Yeps, I using only Liquid Pro !! now and before with H100


What is Liquid Pro, a coolant or tim? I know the best non-conductive tim on the market is Icy Diamond. I got that from the best overclockers on the AMD FX Vishera Owner's Club, Red1776 and KyadCK.


----------



## Imprezzion

Liquid Pro and Liquid Ultra is a conductive, 100% metal TIM.

Has up to 8x the thermal conductivity of regular TIM.


----------



## bond32

H220 does perform better than the h100i.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> H220 does perform better than the h100i.


I can confirm this as my friend owns the h100i we have similar systems and I have better temps at higher clocks and voltages.. If only this pump noise would stop.

EDIT: We both also use Mx-4 as I find this to be the easiest to work with and provide 1-2c difference from IC Diamond


----------



## bond32

Martin's testing showed that the h220 performs better. Not really a huge increase over the h100i but it does perform better.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I can confirm this as my friend owns the h100i we have similar systems and I have better temps at higher clocks and voltages.. If only this pump noise would stop.
> 
> EDIT: We both also use Mx-4 as I find this to be the easiest to work with and provide 1-2c difference from IC Diamond


The IC Diamond is a little thicker but no more difficulto work with. You apply it in exactly the same nanner as other tim. A peas sized drop in the middle of the cpu and then mount the block.
The difference in temps is more like 4 degrees Celsius not 1-2. MX-4 is not even close.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> sorry for not replying more quickly I got side tracked with work. So this poses another question would another pump in the loop help this by forcing air out. or would the other pumps work be stalled by the h220 pump in a state of stuck.


Adding a second pump to your loop will only improve performance. Even though they're different pumps, that operate at different speeds, they will only enhance your flow rate and improve your head pressure. Adding a second pump to the loop will also improve this kit's ability to bleed air out of it.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> What is Liquid Pro, a coolant or tim? I know the best non-conductive tim on the market is Icy Diamond. I got that from the best overclockers on the AMD FX Vishera Owner's Club, Red1776 and KyadCK.


And what you mean by this? I did not say that the Liquid Pro is the best, do not understand why you give me this answer ...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> We shall see.. I used to use a H100i but as it's RMA I ordered a H220 which I plan to add a 360 60mm thick rad to later on.
> 
> I know exactly what temps my H100i pulled at specific clocks and voltages and I will re-test them with the H220. All tests will be done using Liquid Ultra TIM between the IHS and the block.


Yea let me know when u ge the H220.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The IC Diamond is a little thicker but no more difficulto work with. You apply it in exactly the same nanner as other tim. A peas sized drop in the middle of the cpu and then mount the block.
> The difference in temps is more like 4 degrees Celsius not 1-2. MX-4 is not even close.


I was using MX-2 that I bought 3-5years ago. Then I just got the IC Diamond 3 days ago, so far it gives me better temp. Not sure how it compare to MX-4, I supposed it's better too. A lot of ppl are recommending this IC Diamond stuff, so I think it's def live up to the hype.


----------



## Phelan

I like IC Diamond, and have used it quite a while, but now I just use Swiftech Tim-mate 2 since I have a lot of it, and it's easier to apply on thermal pads and whatnot.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I can confirm this as my friend owns the h100i we have similar systems and I have better temps at higher clocks and voltages.. If only this pump noise would stop.
> 
> EDIT: We both also use Mx-4 as I find this to be the easiest to work with and provide 1-2c difference from IC Diamond


How much better is your H220 compare to your friend H100i ? Is it like 2-3C better? or 5C+?

Also I thought the H220 supposed to be silent? and you got p ump noise? hm...


----------



## Phelan

My H220 is silent







.


----------



## Avonosac

As is both of mine. If it isn't quite, maybe you should look at making sure you aren't getting vibrations anywhere... I have no issues with noise.


----------



## MadGoat

so how good is this liquid ultra? Been thinking about lapping this CPU and maybe a more "extreme" tim...

any experience?


----------



## John Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> so how good is this liquid ultra? Been thinking about lapping this CPU and maybe a more "extreme" tim...
> 
> any experience?


great product. it may stain the block/ihs and is conductive so be very careful and don't use too much. its 100% metal TIM


----------



## Avonosac

I would say its only really useful if you're going to use it on the die after delidding, otherwise its not worth its price tag, and certainly not worth the bother of cleaning up your block / IHS.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I would say its only really useful if you're going to use it on the die after delidding, otherwise its not worth its price tag, and certainly not worth the bother of cleaning up your block / IHS.


Wait.. it's only $10 on Amazon... Here


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> great product. it may stain the block/ihs and is conductive so be very careful and don't use too much. its 100% metal TIM


So if it stained the IHS and the block, is there anyways to clean it? or can't? Also do u guy sknow if the IC diamond can stain the IHS / Block too? or nah?

Also Phelan, if your H220 is silent, then isn't the other guy that said the pump is noisy got a defective unit?


----------



## Imprezzion

They give you a small patch of scotchbright like stuff.. It's the only way to clean it (sand it lightly). This voids warranty on the CPU as it sands off the serial and model numbers.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if it stained the IHS and the block, is there anyways to clean it? or can't? Also do u guy sknow if the IC diamond can stain the IHS / Block too? or nah?
> 
> Also Phelan, if your H220 is silent, then isn't the other guy that said the pump is noisy got a defective unit?[/quote
> 
> The Ultra tim comes in a kit with the remover and application brush.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if it stained the IHS and the block, is there anyways to clean it? or can't? Also do u guy sknow if the IC diamond can stain the IHS / Block too? or nah?
> 
> Also Phelan, if your H220 is silent, then isn't the other guy that said the pump is noisy got a defective unit?


Not necessarily. As also mentioned, he may have vibration issues in the case, or a stubborn air bubble..


----------



## John Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if it stained the IHS and the block, is there anyways to clean it? or can't? Also do u guy sknow if the IC diamond can stain the IHS / Block too? or nah?
> 
> Also Phelan, if your H220 is silent, then isn't the other guy that said the pump is noisy got a defective unit?


IC diamond is known to create micro scratches but not stain like CLU/CLP


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Not necessarily. As also mentioned, he may have vibration issues in the case, or a stubborn air bubble..


Yea it could be that he has air bubble and vibration. Do you think the H320 / H220 pump is stronger than the XSPC 750 V4 pump?


----------



## tw33k

A quick clean with some metal polish easily removes the stain that Liquid Ultra leaves. see here


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> IC diamond is known to create micro scratches but not stain like CLU/CLP


there is no actual proof.

there was one user ( possibly a group ) who tried to slander the company who makes it who posted pics on several forums. but imo with how long it has been out if it were true there would bar many more cases by now.

i 100% DO NOT believe the story that user had + red1776 can show pics, as can kyack ( spelling ) and several others in the 83xx club in my sig


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no actual proof.
> 
> there was one user ( possibly a group ) who tried to slander the company who makes it who posted pics on several forums. but imo with how long it has been out if it were true there would bar many more cases by now.
> 
> i 100% DO NOT believe the story that user had + red1776 can show pics, as can kyack ( spelling ) and several others in the 83xx club in my sig


All I use is IC diamond and not once has it scratched my cpu's or gpu's.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> IC diamond is known to create micro scratches but not stain like CLU/CLP


IC Diamond does stain. I stop using it due to that and the temps was not a noticeable difference, from AS5 or MX-4.


----------



## mcnumpty23

ok --finally got round to fitting my h320 into a storm trooper









but cant seem to find a pwm option in the bios of my P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ?

any one know where it is? was sure this board had one or 2 pwm headers

idle temps are similar to my h80

but load temps with only a quick test are much lower









though to be fair its not a pure test as i re-arranged the fan set up a bit as well

but basically tested both by converting a large file through winavi with 100% cpu load--hyperthreading on

h80 hottest core 75c

h320 hottest core 60c

so at the same cpu speed and voltage its far lower and even with the reservoir below the pump its very very quiet


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> ok --finally got round to fitting my h320 into a storm trooper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but cant seem to find a pwm option in the bios of my P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ?
> 
> any one know where it is? was sure this board had one or 2 pwm headers
> 
> idle temps are similar to my h80
> 
> but load temps with only a quick test are much lower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though to be fair its not a pure test as i re-arranged the fan set up a bit as well
> 
> but basically tested both by converting a large file through winavi with 100% cpu load--hyperthreading on
> 
> h80 hottest core 75c
> 
> h320 hottest core 60c
> 
> so at the same cpu speed and voltage its far lower and even with the reservoir below the pump its very very quiet


It should be in the Bios under MOnitor tab, i think that's where Asus put it in most of the boards.

You put the 360 Rad at the bottom of your case?
Damn another person got the H320







u dont live in France do u?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> It should be in the Bios under MOnitor tab, i think that's where Asus put it in most of the boards.
> 
> Damn another person got the H320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> u dont live in France do u?


nope in the uk

sat for a whole week watching them and they had only sold 5 out of the 8 they had

so decided just to go for it


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> It should be in the Bios under MOnitor tab, i think that's where Asus put it in most of the boards.
> 
> You put the 360 Rad at the bottom of your case?
> 
> no in the front of the case
> 
> cant find any option in the bios under monitor that shows pwm or voltage control
> 
> wouldnt do it automatically if it detects a pwm connected fan would it?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> It should be in the Bios under MOnitor tab, i think that's where Asus put it in most of the boards.
> 
> You put the 360 Rad at the bottom of your case?
> 
> no in the front of the case
> 
> cant find any option in the bios under monitor that shows pwm or voltage control
> 
> wouldnt do it automatically if it detects a pwm connected fan would it?
> 
> 
> 
> You have to scroll down in the MOnitor tab
> You should see the CPU Fan Q control or whatever
Click to expand...


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You have to scroll down in the MOnitor tab
> You should see the CPU Fan Q control or whatever


yeah got the fan control section ok

but it just gives something like silent, standard , turbo or manual

even manual doesnt give a pwm or voltage option

set it at turbo at the moment and even when i loaded up the cpu it wasnt excessively loud


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> ok --finally got round to fitting my h320 into a storm trooper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but cant seem to find a pwm option in the bios of my P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 ?
> 
> any one know where it is? was sure this board had one or 2 pwm headers
> 
> idle temps are similar to my h80
> 
> but load temps with only a quick test are much lower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though to be fair its not a pure test as i re-arranged the fan set up a bit as well
> 
> but basically tested both by converting a large file through winavi with 100% cpu load--hyperthreading on
> 
> h80 hottest core 75c
> 
> h320 hottest core 60c
> 
> so at the same cpu speed and voltage its far lower and even with the reservoir below the pump its very very quiet


I've just taken a look at the downloadable version of your manual and it looks like the only header that might actually be PWM is the CPU fan header. Make sure to enable Q-Fan control and set it to Standard mode. I know of at least two or three customers that have had issues with using the Turbo mode. I've got a feeling that the Turbo mode might use voltage regulation, but I haven't been able to confirm that.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> yeah got the fan control section ok
> 
> but it just gives something like silent, standard , turbo or manual
> 
> even manual doesnt give a pwm or voltage option
> 
> set it at turbo at the moment and even when i loaded up the cpu it wasnt excessively loud


If you're using the included splitter, and the pump changes speeds, it's running pwm. If the pump runs full speed when plugged into the splitter regardless of the setting, then the pump is running voltage. This is the ONLY safe way IMO on how to test and make sure the pump is running on pwm.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've just taken a look at the downloadable version of your manual and it looks like the only header that might actually be PWM is the CPU fan header. Make sure to enable Q-Fan control and set it to Standard mode. I know of at least a two or three customers that have had issues with using the Turbo mode. I've got a feeling that the Turbo mode might use voltage regulation, but I haven't been able to confirm that.


thank you--+1 more rep for you

i thought the cpu optional header was pwm as well--but wasnt sure

i used the cpu header any way just to be safe

and will set qfan to standard

havent got time to fully test it as its midnight here and got to start moving house in the morning

but seriously impresed so far with it after a quick 100% cpu load of 10 minutes

though have to say my h80 was easier to mount --but in all other ways your product is far superior

and was worried that having to fit it in a case not meant for a 360 rad which made me put the reservoir at the bottom of the case lower than the

pump would cause issues with trapped air--but no noise or gurgling


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you're using the included splitter, and the pump changes speeds, it's running pwm. If the pump runs full speed when plugged into the splitter regardless of the setting, then the pump is running voltage. This is the ONLY safe way IMO on how to test and make sure the pump is running on pwm.


This is correct and is the best way to ensure that your pump is running on a PWM signal. Thanks for that Phelan.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> IC diamond is known to create micro scratches but not stain like CLU/CLP[/quote
> 
> IC Diamond does NOT create micro-scratches that is a false accusation by some viral idiots on youtube. All the high-end overclockers are using it and do you think they would continue to use it and recommend it to others if it messed up their cpu?? These guys have reputations for professionalism and accomplishment on overclock.net There is no way they would recommend a shoddy product. The same bunch who falsely claim micr-scratches also accused the CEO of IC Diamond of misconduct on the web. I read the transcript of his statement and in no way did he act with impropriety. My take is that the young guys attacking IC Diamond either suffer from roid rage or are trying to shake down the company.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> IC diamond is known to create micro scratches but not stain like CLU/CLP[/quote
> 
> IC Diamond does NOT create micro-scratches that is a false accusation by some viral idiots on youtube. All the high-end overclockers are using it and do you think they would continue to use it and recommend it to others if it messed up their cpu?? These guys have reputations for professionalism and accomplishment on overclock.net There is no way they would recommend a shoddy product. The same bunch who falsely claim micr-scratches also accused the CEO of IC Diamond of misconduct on the web. I read the transcript of his statement and in no way did he act with impropriety. My take is that the young guys attacking IC Diamond either suffer from roid rage or are trying to shake down the company.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you're using the included splitter, and the pump changes speeds, it's running pwm. If the pump runs full speed when plugged into the splitter regardless of the setting, then the pump is running voltage. This is the ONLY safe way IMO on how to test and make sure the pump is running on pwm.


yes using the splitter

how do i tell what is the pump speed and which is the fan speed?

on idle asus fan expert is showing 1560 rpm

on full load its showing 2200 rpm

edit---the fans probably cant do 2200rpm?

so thats probably my pump reading its showing?


----------



## John Freeman

my bad just from what i heard.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thank you--+1 more rep for you
> 
> i thought the cpu optional header was pwm as well--but wasnt sure
> 
> i used the cpu header any way just to be safe
> 
> and will set qfan to standard
> 
> havent got time to fully test it as its midnight here and got to start moving house in the morning
> 
> but seriously impresed so far with it after a quick 100% cpu load of 10 minutes
> 
> though have to say my h80 was easier to mount --but in all other ways your product is far superior
> 
> and was worried that having to fit it in a case not meant for a 360 rad which made me put the reservoir at the bottom of the case lower than the
> 
> pump would cause issues with trapped air--but no noise or gurgling


If you set the Fan profile to Manual, you should be able to set the fan speed depend ont he Temperature curve, just like in MSI AFterburner Fan settings for the GPU.
The CPU OPtional header doesnt allow you to change the settings at all, it will just run at max. I have my Silverstone TD-02 pump connected to the CPU Optional header , did that with my H100i too .

My CPU Opt header is PWM btw, i'm using the Sabertoth Z77 board.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> yes using the splitter
> 
> how do i tell what is the pump speed and which is the fan speed?
> 
> on idle asus fan expert is showing 1560 rpm
> 
> on full load its showing 2200 rpm
> 
> edit---the fans probably cant do 2200rpm?
> 
> so thats probably my pump reading its showing?


Whichever device is plugged into the red slot will report rpm.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> If you set the Fan profile to Manual, you should be able to set the fan speed depend ont he Temperature curve, just like in MSI AFterburner Fan settings for the GPU.
> The CPU OPtional header doesnt allow you to change the settings at all, it will just run at max. I have my Silverstone TD-02 pump connected to the CPU Optional header , did that with my H100i too .
> 
> My CPU Opt header is PWM btw, i'm using the Sabertoth Z77 board.


Not entirely true. I have the pump in the CPU header, and the fans in the CPU OPT header on my crosshair V formula z, in speedfan you can drop down the PWM percentage on PWM1, then you can drop PWM2 which will drop the fan speed without changing the pump.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> If you set the Fan profile to Manual, you should be able to set the fan speed depend ont he Temperature curve, just like in MSI AFterburner Fan settings for the GPU.
> The CPU OPtional header doesnt allow you to change the settings at all, it will just run at max. I have my Silverstone TD-02 pump connected to the CPU Optional header , did that with my H100i too .
> 
> My CPU Opt header is PWM btw, i'm using the Sabertoth Z77 board.


yeah i realise i could set a manual profile

it was just the lack of a pwm or voltage option i was having problems with

the motherboard makers dont seem to make it easy to find out about pwm headers

i just set it to standard profile and ran prime95

needed to hit 65c to move it up to 70% pump speed but max it got to was 63c

the noise was audible but not severely loud but running prime95 i expected it to be

at the moment on idle in a totally silent room i can barely hear anything from 3 feet away

my external hard drive is actually louder than the h320


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Whichever device is plugged into the red slot will report rpm.


thank you--couldnt be clearer or simpler

the pumps on the red header

+1 rep for you


----------



## Phelan




----------



## Sp33d Junki3

CPU_Opt is tied to the CPU_Fan. So you can have 2 PWM together. How I had mine is one splitter powered the Pump+4 fans (CPU_Fan) for H220 and other splitter powered the 4 case fans (CPU_Opt) So all adjust the same speed.
If you want the bios to control the pump and fans set to manual or use the preset selections.
Using software like Speed Fan, be sure to set bios fan disable, so it do not conflict. As Speed fan will do all the speed.
Using Asus own software is not good, as it does not give the correct temps for the CPU. It monitors the socket temps, not the cores.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> CPU_Opt is tied to the CPU_Fan. So you can have 2 PWM together. How I had mine is one splitter powered the Pump+4 fans (CPU_Fan) for H220 and other splitter powered the 4 case fans (CPU_Opt) So all adjust the same speed.
> If you want the bios to control the pump and fans set to manual or use the preset selections.
> Using software like Speed Fan, be sure to set bios fan disable, so it do not conflict. As Speed fan will do all the speed.
> Using Asus own software is not good, as it does not give the correct temps for the CPU. It monitors the socket temps, not the cores. *is absolutely horrible, it gives incorrect readings constantly, is very poorly coded. and really fails at almost everything, if you are using it you should stop uninstall it. and be happy from there. then download HWinfo60, adia64 ( have both still prefer hwinfo64 {Mega Man}) and speed fan or any of the other myriad of programs out there. {as for me i will just be getting an aquaero and be done with it ~Mega Man}*


i edited it for you

side ntoe i do have aisuite installed. however i have a very stripped down version installed. basically i have the usb boosts installed. and well that is it

after that i go and completely disable all the monitoring portions of it as it is made of so much fail i have no interest in seeing it


----------



## jincuteguy

I hope more ppl will get more H320 and more pictures posted


----------



## mcnumpty23

will post pics later

though didnt bother with cable management as just wanted it in there before starting to move house

so its messy--but cool and quiet


----------



## bobsaget

Hi all,

i'm trying to optimize my performance/noise ratio. Just got a pwm splitter to plug my two rad fans on the chassis pwm fan header. The cpu pwm fan header controls the pump via the swiftech splitter on the other hand.

Is it ok to let the pump only fluctuate (is it an english word?) between 5% and 15% only?

And the two fans won't be affected by such low percentage because they will run on another pwm header. So i'll reduce the pump noise (currently running between 1900/2200rpm) without killing performance.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The IC Diamond is a little thicker but no more difficulto work with. You apply it in exactly the same nanner as other tim. A peas sized drop in the middle of the cpu and then mount the block.
> The difference in temps is more like 4 degrees Celsius not 1-2. MX-4 is not even close.


For the standard users purposes Mx-4 is an excellent paste to achieve a stable OC at mild temps, from what iv seen IC Diamond is at most a 3c difference over the Mx-4. If your trying to achieve an extreme OC on TIM then I don't disagree the IC Diamond is great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How much better is your H220 compare to your friend H100i ? Is it like 2-3C better? or 5C+?
> 
> Also I thought the H220 supposed to be silent? and you got p ump noise? hm...


Its about 3-6c better depending on the room temp and time of day. The h220 is far superior in noise levels but my pump has air bubbles trapped which cause noise and I cannot relieve them. From what I understand this is common and new parts are being implemented in new models to prevent this.

EDIT: I also am currently in the RMA process and have to say if you do have a problem Bryan at Swiftech is an excellent person to talk to and seems very prompt to to respond! I called on Saturday not knowing the hours prior and ended up getting the CEO on the phone and speaking to him, so far excellent customer support and I couldn't be happier. The pump noise is simply the price I paid for buying a piece of technology pioneering the industry!


----------



## MuGGz

Is it possible to cool evga 780 hydro + CPU without seccond rad with h220?

I know i would get better temps with seccond rad, just wondering if i could get simular temps like with air


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> Is it possible to cool evga 780 hydro + CPU without seccond rad with h220?
> 
> I know i would get better temps with seccond rad, just wondering if i could get simular temps like with air


You can, but the big part is good airflow and ambient temps.
If it too high outside temps, then you will see not so good performance H220 intake.
Little airflow internal will see not so good results if H220 is exhaust. Which also comes down too ambient.


----------



## MuGGz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can, but the big part is good airflow and ambient temps.
> If it too high outside temps, then you will see not so good performance H220 intake.
> Little airflow internal will see not so good results if H220 is exhaust. Which also comes down too ambient.


I was thinking of using this setup in a bitfenix prodigy case

Would it be better to add like 200mm rad in the front?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> I was thinking of using this setup in a bitfenix prodigy case
> 
> Would it be better to add like 200mm rad in the front?


I have 2 220 rads in my prodigy, the H220 and an MCR-220-QP. The only way I was able to fit it was to have the res of the H220 radiator pointing through the OD slot on the front of the case. I had to use some of the mesh slots and line it up vertically, but I haven't had any issues with this set up









Here ya go..



Cheers!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> i'm trying to optimize my performance/noise ratio. Just got a pwm splitter to plug my two rad fans on the chassis pwm fan header. The cpu pwm fan header controls the pump via the swiftech splitter on the other hand.
> 
> Is it ok to let the pump only fluctuate (is it an english word?) between 5% and 15% only?
> 
> And the two fans won't be affected by such low percentage because they will run on another pwm header. So i'll reduce the pump noise (currently running between 1900/2200rpm) without killing performance.


Yes, that would be ok. But notice that the minimum rpm in the pump should be around 1200 rpm. So, between 10% to 20% PWM you shouldn't see much difference in the actual rpm of the pump. But at this rpm the pump should be very very quite. If not either the pump/barbs is touching something in the case/MB or you have bubbles in it...


----------



## thelude

Can the H220 pump handle 3 blocks and 3 rads?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I have 2 220 rads in my prodigy, the H220 and an MCR-220-QP. The only way I was able to fit it was to have the res of the H220 radiator pointing through the OD slot on the front of the case. I had to use some of the mesh slots and line it up vertically, but I haven't had any issues with this set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here ya go..
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


The H220 do not go past the ODD bay if use on the top. You have the H220 vertical.
You could use a 120/140 maybe a 180 or 200mm rad in front.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Can the H220 pump handle 3 blocks and 3 rads?


Yep, no prob. But if 2 of those blocks are GPUs, be sure to set them up in parallel, not serial, so you have much better flow.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yep, no prob. But if 2 of those blocks are GPUs, be sure to set them up in parallel, not serial, so you have much better flow.


On a side note, 3 blocks +rads will most likely make the system difficult to bleed. Just something to be aware of.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes, that would be ok. But notice that the minimum rpm in the pump should be around 1200 rpm. So, between 10% to 20% PWM you shouldn't see much difference in the actual rpm of the pump. But at this rpm the pump should be very very quite. If not either the pump/barbs is touching something in the case/MB or you have bubbles in it...


ok thanks.

I'm going to solve my bubbles issue by installing new much shorter tubing this week (the original tubing is way too long for the bitfenix prodigy and doesn't look great but too loose).

I keep you posted.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The H220 do not go past the ODD bay if use on the top. You have the H220 vertical.
> You could use a 120/140 maybe a 180 or 200mm rad in front.


I think you aren't noticing the second rad that is up top, with the H220 rad up front.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I think you aren't noticing the second rad that is up top, with the H220 rad up front.


I did notice. You can mount the H220 on top and a different rad at front.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I did notice. You can mount the H220 on top and a different rad at front.


Won't fit, unless you are talking a single fan rad. As it is, the only way to get both in the box was to have the top fans out of the case with fan shrouds blowing in from the top. Either the swivel barbs, or the res or the other radiator's ports got in the way of having both rads fit with everything inside and having a back exhaust fan.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I did notice. You can mount the H220 on top and a different rad at front.


By the way you were the guy who let me know I could fit the h320 in the top of my case. I do NOT know if I will be able to mount it so the fill port is up. Can you determine if I can do that. That will make my setup much more efficient if I can do that. It will be shipping from ncix.ca in another12 days if all goes well. I really want to be on top of this installation, without any big surprises. Since my case has tons of intake fans (two double sets for the hard drive cage, and I only have SSD drives, not those heavy , hot oldies,a huge 230mm side case fan a 120 mm Noctua fan on the other side, all on intake, I plan on setting this unit for exhaust at the top.Will I have to move my fans to have the fill port up?? Thanks for all help you can provide.


----------



## paleh0rse14

ok, so here we are four months later, and my H220 has finally decided to start making whirring/clicking noises... kinda like the sound a cricket makes. It's real loud and high-pitched during boot-up when the pump is at full speed, but then quiets down to just a subtle clicking noise once the speedfan profile loads after login. It then fluctuates in volume based on the demand being placed on the pump.

The pump was almost completely silent for the last four months, regardless of pump speed... and then this.









Please tell me I don't have to take the whole darn thing apart to fix this... lol.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> By the way you were the guy who let me know I could fit the h320 in the top of my case. I do NOT know if I will be able to mount it so the fill port is up. Can you determine if I can do that. That will make my setup much more efficient if I can do that. It will be shipping from ncix.ca in another12 days if all goes well. I really want to be on top of this installation, without any big surprises. Since my case has tons of intake fans (two double sets for the hard drive cage, and I only have SSD drives, not those heavy , hot oldies,a huge 230mm side case fan a 120 mm Noctua fan on the other side, all on intake, I plan on setting this unit for exhaust at the top.Will I have to move my fans to have the fill port up?? Thanks for all help you can provide.


If you're still using the BlackHawk Ultra, you shouldn't have any problems fitting the H320 at the top of your case with the fill port facing up. It even looks like you should be able to do push/ pull in that configuration. If you're doing push/ pull though make sure to make all of your top motherboard connections first, so that you won't have to strain to get them plugged in after the kit is installed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> ok, so here we are four months later, and my H220 has finally decided to start making whirring/clicking noises... kinda like the sound a cricket makes. It's real loud and high-pitched during boot-up when the pump is at full speed, but then quiets down to just a subtle clicking noise once the speedfan profile loads after login. It then fluctuates in volume based on the demand being placed on the pump.
> 
> The pump was almost completely silent for the last four months, regardless of pump speed... and then this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me I don't have to take the whole darn thing apart to fix this... lol.


Please try following the guide in the OP for removing air from the kit. If that doesn't work you can also try running the pump with the fill-port cap removed. Just make sure that you have some paper towels handy if it drips when you first remove the cap and while running it. If that doesn't work then please PM me and we'll go from there.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please try following the guide in the OP for removing air from the kit. If that doesn't work you can also try running the pump with the fill-port cap removed. Just make sure that you have some paper towels handy if it drips when you first remove the cap and while running it. If that doesn't work then please PM me and we'll go from there.


Why is it doing that after 4 months of usage? Is it because of the liquid evaporated over time?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Won't fit, unless you are talking a single fan rad. As it is, the only way to get both in the box was to have the top fans out of the case with fan shrouds blowing in from the top. Either the swivel barbs, or the res or the other radiator's ports got in the way of having both rads fit with everything inside and having a back exhaust fan.


There is other rads that can be used in the front, instead of a 240. If you have the smaller PCB like a GTX670, you should be able to fit a 180/200 rad in front.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is other rads that can be used in the front, instead of a 240. If you have the smaller PCB like a GTX670, you should be able to fit a 180/200 rad in front.


I already acknowledged that when I said single fan rad.. and no, titan would say no to any really long and wide radiators.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're still using the BlackHawk Ultra, you shouldn't have any problems fitting the H320 at the top of your case with the fill port facing up. It even looks like you should be able to do push/ pull in that configuration. If you're doing push/ pull though make sure to make all of your top motherboard connections first, so that you won't have to strain to get them plugged in after the kit is installed.


Thanks so much Brian. One other question . Do these new H320's have the latest parts for improving the pump problems?


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Adding a second pump to your loop will only improve performance. Even though they're different pumps, that operate at different speeds, they will only enhance your flow rate and improve your head pressure. Adding a second pump to the loop will also improve this kit's ability to bleed air out of it.


regarding the issue i have with the pump not starting up when tower is left off about 45 min, if air is the issue could changing loop order fix it, or perhaps letting the loop run at full speed all the time?

recap so dont have to go through all prior posts, works fine on reboot, and if left running never have issue. however if shutdown for about 45min pump does come back up. am using pwm splitter, tried using another swiftech splitter, and direct from mobo/and alt mobo. swapped psus. see issue outside of case as well.

the loop goes h220 rad then h220 pump, then ek-7970 lightning wb - then MCR12-QP - then MCRES micro Rev2 Reservoir - back to h220 radiator. the h220 rad is in the top of my 550d. the mcr12-qp is on the bottom 120/140 slot with reservoir above the hdd, below the optical bay where another hdd tray would be.pump is powered of swiftech splitter pic below of setup



edit ill note my pump has never been audibly noisy &#8230; though i guess fan noise may cover it up, but there is not much of that


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why is it doing that after 4 months of usage? Is it because of the liquid evaporated over time?


Yes, it could simply be that with a little evaporation there is now an air pocket in the loop. That would be my guess at this time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thanks so much Brian. One other question . Do these new H320's have the latest parts for improving the pump problems?


Yes, this new batch of kits has all of the latest revisions to reduce or eliminate issues that these pumps have previously had.


----------



## michael-ocn

Sounds like it may not be getting past its "start voltage" on a cold start. Does your system run the "fans" up to 100% on boot and then throttle back as the bios kicks in? If so, during that brief 100% period does the pump run and then cutoff afterwards? But then again, i guess if that were the case, temps would rise soon enough and the system would power in excess of that startup voltage and things would be ok from there on?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> regarding the issue i have with the pump not starting up when tower is left off about 45 min, if air is the issue could changing loop order fix it, or perhaps letting the loop run at full speed all the time?
> 
> recap so dont have to go through all prior posts, works fine on reboot, and if left running never have issue. however if shutdown for about 45min pump does come back up. am using pwm splitter, tried using another swiftech splitter, and direct from mobo/and alt mobo. swapped psus. see issue outside of case as well.
> 
> the loop goes h220 rad then h220 pump, then ek-7970 lightning wb - then MCR12-QP - then MCRES micro Rev2 Reservoir - back to h220 radiator. the h220 rad is in the top of my 550d. the mcr12-qp is on the bottom 120/140 slot with reservoir above the hdd, below the optical bay where another hdd tray would be.pump is powered of swiftech splitter pic below of setup
> 
> edit ill note my pump has never been audibly noisy &#8230; though i guess fan noise may cover it up, but there is not much of that


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Sounds like it may not be getting past its "start voltage" on a cold start. Does your system run the "fans" up to 100% on boot and then throttle back as the bios kicks in? If so, during that brief 100% period does the pump run and then cutoff afterwards? But then again, i guess if that were the case, temps would rise soon enough and the system would power in excess of that startup voltage and things would be ok from there on?


the fans spin up for about 3-4 sec... and i do not think the pump starts up/ shuts down, but not sure ... i will check as soon as i can. normally if the pump has not started after the throttle back it will start building again as the cpu heats, which is normally to full blast by the time windows loads 15 sec or so. i thought leaving the pwm splitter control line unplugged would give it full voltage as well, last time i tried this it did not start. i will test that again as well with only the pump and one fan in the splitter... will be thursday when i have time to test (long days at work right now)


----------



## EarlZ

Did anyone here come from a NZXT Kraken X60? Im considering the switch and will be using a GT-AP15 so that would mean an additional cost, I am wondering though if the H220 with the GT-AP15 can out perform the X60 at a lower noise level?


----------



## bond32

Yes. I had the kraken at one point. I would consider it to be one of the noisiest coolers out. Even at slower rpm the stock nzxt fans are horrible.

Stock swiftech fans are pretty good. They have a low drone at full speed... Nothing like the noise of the kraken.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes. I had the kraken at one point. I would consider it to be one of the noisiest coolers out. Even at slower rpm the stock nzxt fans are horrible.
> 
> Stock swiftech fans are pretty good. They have a low drone at full speed... Nothing like the noise of the kraken.


Based on reviews, the X60 seems to perform better than the H220 even silent mode which has an ok noise for me since I am running an AC anyway, I am more concerned though about the performance, I am wondering if used with a GT-AP15, can it beat the X60?


----------



## Mega Man

ummmm no
the x60 is another aio made by 1 of 2 oems... very weak pumps.... very very poor performer...

if you only care about performance... go with full custom loop.... if you want a nice middle go h220 if you want anything else phanteks, noctura...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goddog*
> 
> regarding the issue i have with the pump not starting up when tower is left off about 45 min, if air is the issue could changing loop order fix it, or perhaps letting the loop run at full speed all the time?
> 
> recap so dont have to go through all prior posts, works fine on reboot, and if left running never have issue. however if shutdown for about 45min pump does come back up. am using pwm splitter, tried using another swiftech splitter, and direct from mobo/and alt mobo. swapped psus. see issue outside of case as well.
> 
> the loop goes h220 rad then h220 pump, then ek-7970 lightning wb - then MCR12-QP - then MCRES micro Rev2 Reservoir - back to h220 radiator. the h220 rad is in the top of my 550d. the mcr12-qp is on the bottom 120/140 slot with reservoir above the hdd, below the optical bay where another hdd tray would be.pump is powered of swiftech splitter pic below of setup
> 
> 
> 
> edit ill note my pump has never been audibly noisy &#8230; though i guess fan noise may cover it up, but there is not much of that


What is that blue fan in this picture?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ummmm no
> the x60 is another aio made by 1 of 2 oems... very weak pumps.... very very poor performer...
> 
> if you only care about performance... go with full custom loop.... if you want a nice middle go h220 if you want anything else phanteks, noctura...


But if kraken pump is powerful enough for the small loop (which it is) and the 280 rad is generous in size and good at dumping heat (which it is), then it can give the h220 a run for its money at single cpu cooling. The expandability and comparable performace at smaller rad size at lower noise is how the h220 looks better to me. The asetek products aren't bad at what they do, but don't expect it to cool a cpu and 2x gpus on a loop with 3 rads. My aseteks still going strong at 2 yrs and 10 months of pretty much daily use.


----------



## Stablerage

My pump has begun to make extra noise. It isn't a ticking like I have seen others state more of a whirling Noise. I have it set to silent with the asus AI suite II. It only started yesterday. could this be air? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> But if kraken pump is powerful enough for the small loop (which it is) and the 280 rad is generous in size and good at dumping heat (which it is), then it can give the h220 a run for its money at single cpu cooling. The expandability and comparable performace at smaller rad size at lower noise is how the h220 looks better to me. The asetek products aren't bad at what they do, but don't expect it to cool a cpu and 2x gpus on a loop with 3 rads. My aseteks still going strong at 2 yrs and 10 months of pretty much daily use.


Absolutely inadequate to handle high overclocks on the AMD 8350 cpu. Swiftech H220 and H320 blow Kraken 60 out of the water . nothing more to be said on this issue .


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> But if kraken pump is powerful enough for the small loop (which it is) and the 280 rad is generous in size and good at dumping heat (which it is), then it can give the h220 a run for its money at single cpu cooling. The expandability and comparable performace at smaller rad size at lower noise is how the h220 looks better to me. The asetek products aren't bad at what they do, but don't expect it to cool a cpu and 2x gpus on a loop with 3 rads. My aseteks still going strong at 2 yrs and 10 months of pretty much daily use.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely inadequate to handle high overclocks on the AMD 8350 cpu. Swiftech H220 and H320 blow Kraken 60 out of the water . nothing more to be said on this issue .
Click to expand...

If thats the case why do reviews say otherwise?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case why do reviews say otherwise?


Because some reviewers are not scientific in how they test the units and are even amateurish in installing the units. When you test different units the machines must be identical. The application of tim must be identical. The ambient temperature must be measured accurately and must be identical. Linus and Martins liguid coolong lab are the among the best of the reviewers and they found the Swiftech to be shoulders above the kraken 60 and even H100i and H110i.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case why do reviews say otherwise?
> 
> 
> 
> Because some reviewers are not scientific in how they test the units and are even amateurish in installing the units. When you test different units the machines must be identical. The application of tim must be identical. The ambient temperature must be measured accurately and must be identical. Linus and Martins liguid coolong lab are the among the best of the reviewers and they found the Swiftech to be shoulders above the kraken 60 and even H100i and H110i.
Click to expand...

I must dig up Linus's result then I vaguely remember his result, thanks for the heads up!


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I must dig up Linus's result then I vaguely remember his result, thanks for the heads up!


Even more authoritative and exhaustive than Linus is martinsliquidlab.org. I strongly recommend you visit that site. You will be impressed by the rigorous science behind his testing.
he is not looking for glory just the truth.


----------



## EarlZ

I've seen martins site and I've been there a couple of times, I cant seem to find his specific article if he has compared the X60 with the H220 directly.

Linus shows a difference of about 12c


Consider my self sold, though I still need to dig how the Helix fans compare to the Gentle Typhoon AP15 though I have 3 of them here to test..


----------



## fortunesolace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> I have a H320, 2 weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did your H320 packaging arrived like this?
> 
> 
> 
> It's from a review. http://www.erodov.com/forums/swiftech-h320-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-review-360mm-aio-open-loop-cooler/66231.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Opening the box, it seems package is not very secure and there were quite a few dents on the radiator fins because of the packaging. This is certainly one concern which Swiftech must look into.
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to order the H320 from NCIX.ca. If BramSLI1 could chime in on this.
Click to expand...


----------



## EarlZ

Is anyone here using Cool Laboratory Liquid Pro on their H220 ?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I've seen martins site and I've been there a couple of times, I cant seem to find his specific article if he has compared the X60 with the H220 directly.
> 
> Linus shows a difference of about 12c
> 
> 
> Consider my self sold, though I still need to dig how the Helix fans compare to the Gentle Typhoon AP15 though I have 3 of them here to test..


The Swiftech fans are quiet and a good bang for the buck.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is anyone here using Cool Laboratory Liquid Pro on their H220 ?


If that is all metallic like their Liquid Ultra it is not a good idea. It is conductive andany micro leak could destroy the cpu and water block. The best non-conductive tim is IC Diamond. Far better than both AS5 and the MX stuff.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I must dig up Linus's result then I vaguely remember his result, thanks for the heads up!


Linus is good but remember I think he made a mistake on his initial review of the h220, so make sure you check out his revisit videos. Also, I don't remember what he said about noise, but it still stands the kraken x60 fans are absolute junk. There are only 2 140mm high static pressure fans that are viable in my opinion, bgears b-blaster 140 and noctua. The kraken fans are absurdly loud at even low rpm.

Edit: I am about to order some nf-f12's, let us know how your ap-14's do.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I must dig up Linus's result then I vaguely remember his result, thanks for the heads up!
> 
> 
> 
> Linus is good but remember I think he made a mistake on his initial review of the h220, so make sure you check out his revisit videos. Also, I don't remember what he said about noise, but it still stands the kraken x60 fans are absolute junk. There are only 2 140mm high static pressure fans that are viable in my opinion, bgears b-blaster 140 and noctua. The kraken fans are absurdly loud at even low rpm.
> 
> Edit: I am about to order some nf-f12's, let us know how your ap-14's do.
Click to expand...

The screenshot I posted above is the result from his redid video and he also explained the mistake he made.


----------



## BenchAndGames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace*
> 
> I plan to order the H320 from NCIX.ca. If BramSLI1 could chime in on this.


The instruction manual, I get very bent, inside the box, where is the block and pump, also the packaging was broken, as in the photo review.

The radiator has a small crack, a scratch, but its OK, the performance its good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace*
> 
> I plan to order the H320 from NCIX.ca. If BramSLI1 could chime in on this.


Thank you for your input on our packaging and I'll make sure to pass it on to our production crew.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I've seen martins site and I've been there a couple of times, I cant seem to find his specific article if he has compared the X60 with the H220 directly.
> 
> Consider my self sold, though I still need to dig how the Helix fans compare to the Gentle Typhoon AP15 though I have 3 of them here to test..


You can also compare AP15 to helix, corsair and other fans in Martinsliquidlab.


----------



## thebanik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace*
> 
> http://www.erodov.com/forums/swiftech-h320-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-review-360mm-aio-open-loop-cooler/66231.html
> I plan to order the H320 from NCIX.ca. If BramSLI1 could chime in on this.










, Its my review, Actually it can be a local distri issue as well, since the box was open even though it was a retail unit. However I know for a fact Corsair Packing is much more robust. So whosoever fault it was, the packaging seems to be not upto the mark IMO.


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yep, no prob. But if 2 of those blocks are GPUs, be sure to set them up in parallel, not serial, so you have much better flow.


Will do. Thanks.


----------



## bond32

I have 2 7950's being delivered tomorrow, already have one heatkiller block and will order the second one soon. Using this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36182 to connect them... A parallel config would simply mean inlet on the top left and outlet on the top right correct?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have 2 7950's being delivered tomorrow, already have one heatkiller block and will order the second one soon. Using this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36182 to connect them... A parallel config would simply mean inlet on the top left and outlet on the top right correct?


with two connections between the two cards. The bridge you linked apparently allows both types of operation, parallel and serial.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> with two connections between the two cards. The bridge you linked apparently allows both types of operation, parallel and serial.


Right on, thanks. That's what I thought.


----------



## jincuteguy

So let say you got a H320 or H220, then you add an extra cylinder Reservoir. Then isn't the only spot that you can put that extra Reservoir is at the top of the case? Since you want the Res to be always above the pump (in this case the pump is the cpu block itself)? Or is it ok to put that extra Reservoir below the H220 / H320 pump in the case and it won't damage the pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So let say you got a H320 or H220, then you add an extra cylinder Reservoir. Then isn't the only spot that you can put that extra Reservoir is at the top of the case? Since you want the Res to be always above the pump (in this case the pump is the cpu block itself)? Or is it ok to put that extra Reservoir below the H220 / H320 pump in the case and it won't damage the pump?


Being that the H220/ H320 radiator has a built-in reservoir, you can put the extra reservoir pretty much wherever you want. Just remember that if you're going to fill or drain your loop from this extra reservoir that you'll want to rotate your case to have it at the highest position, or it will spill out due to the pressure.


----------



## Stablerage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> My pump has begun to make extra noise. It isn't a ticking like I have seen others state more of a whirling Noise. I have it set to silent with the asus AI suite II. It only started yesterday. could this be air? Any help would be appreciated.


...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stablerage*
> 
> ...


It could very well just be an air bubble in your pump. Please try the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump and let me know if they work to quiet it down for you.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Being that the H220/ H320 radiator has a built-in reservoir, you can put the extra reservoir pretty much wherever you want. Just remember that if you're going to fill or drain your loop from this extra reservoir that you'll want to rotate your case to have it at the highest position, or it will spill out due to the pressure.


So if I fill / drain my loop from the built in Reservoir for the H220 / H320, then I shouldn't have to do that right?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if I fill / drain my loop from the built in Reservoir for the H220 / H320, then I shouldn't have to do that right?


Yes, that's right. The additional reservoir will then act as an additional air trap and give you a visual means to monitor your coolant level.


----------



## abbb

My pump has suddenly stopped reporting its RPM. Controlling it via PWM still works though. Is this a known problem, and is this fixable?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> My pump has suddenly stopped reporting its RPM. Controlling it via PWM still works though. Is this a known problem, and is this fixable?


What program are you measuring the RPM with? Afew have been known to falsely report RPM.


----------



## B3L13V3R

So an update on the temps. Although I am still having the occasional pump stop issue, especially when shutting the system down for any longer than an hour or so.

But here's what it's doing with two 4GB GTX 670's in a parallel loop, stock rad / res in push, and Swiftech 120 rad in pull:

Idle



Load



These EK GPU blocks are SO nice!! Those load temps are what I am seeing with almost every game. SO nyou gotta hand it to that little pump in the H220 for doing it's job (when it's working)









Here's a snap of the current config for reference.



I'll be going off of the AIO though in a month or so turning this into an EK CSQ and acrylic loop over time. But it certainly does the job for now.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> So an update on the temps. Although I am still having the occasional pump stop issue, especially when shutting the system down for any longer than an hour or so.
> 
> But here's what it's doing with two 4GB GTX 670's in a parallel loop, stock rad / res in push, and Swiftech 120 rad in pull:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a snap of the current config for reference.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be going off of the AIO though in a month or so turning this into an EK CSQ and acrylic loop over time. But it certainly does the job for now.


Dude I have that same paracord for some of my sleeving. But I mixed it with white







.


----------



## Avonosac

Almost looks like that bottom port on the side radiator is about to kink... The one right over top the CSQ block...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Almost looks like that bottom port on the side radiator is about to kink... The one right over top the CSQ block...


It IS _about_ to kink... it's certainly NOT ideal, and it was perfect prior to filling and testing. In fact I even left the tubing connected without water for 24 hours to make sure that a few things were dialed in and this was one of them. This angle is the worst view of it though, there really is not a restriction at all there. Probably because of the shortness of the run.

If you look at it from the top you can't tell much at all. It's all temporary anyway...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Dude I have that same paracord for some of my sleeving. But I mixed it with white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Which one...? The red and black mixed stuff?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Which one...? The red and black mixed stuff?


yeah. MrParacord.com calls it "thin red line". Imaginative, I know..


----------



## EarlZ

I might be ordering the H220 pretty soon, is the thermal paste included with it as good as a TX4 since the only thermal paste I have is the cool laboratory pro


----------



## michael-ocn

Very nice results!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> So an update on the temps. Although I am still having the occasional pump stop issue, especially when shutting the system down for any longer than an hour or so.
> 
> But here's what it's doing with two 4GB GTX 670's in a parallel loop, stock rad / res in push, and Swiftech 120 rad in pull:
> 
> Idle
> 
> 
> 
> Load
> 
> 
> 
> These EK GPU blocks are SO nice!! Those load temps are what I am seeing with almost every game. SO nyou gotta hand it to that little pump in the H220 for doing it's job (when it's working)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a snap of the current config for reference.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be going off of the AIO though in a month or so turning this into an EK CSQ and acrylic loop over time. But it certainly does the job for now.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I might be ordering the H220 pretty soon, is the thermal paste included with it as good as a TX4 since the only thermal paste I have is the cool laboratory pro


I don't see why you wouldn't just use your Cool Labs TIM... I just ordered some CL Pro and will be using that on the EK CPU block once I change to that. You already know to be really careful with that I assume since it IS conductive.









I will say that the TIM provided by Swiftech in the H220 box is pretty decent. Just apply it like they say to in the instructions. It seems to have the best results so far for me. I have not used any other TIM with the H220, however.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> But if kraken pump is powerful enough for the small loop (which it is) and the 280 rad is generous in size and good at dumping heat (which it is), then it can give the h220 a run for its money at single cpu cooling. The expandability and comparable performace at smaller rad size at lower noise is how the h220 looks better to me. The asetek products aren't bad at what they do, but don't expect it to cool a cpu and 2x gpus on a loop with 3 rads. My aseteks still going strong at 2 yrs and 10 months of pretty much daily use.


well.... no. asetek is just another sue happy junk company that has no intent to improve, just wants to sue people to make monies.... + their pump is beyond weak. patent troll failure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Absolutely inadequate to handle high overclocks on the AMD 8350 cpu. Swiftech H220 and H320 blow Kraken 60 out of the water . nothing more to be said on this issue .


correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case why do reviews say otherwise?


because 99% of reviews are junk. esp when it comes to cooling.... for watercooling only person i have found to trust is martin @ martinsliquidlab.org
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Because some reviewers are not scientific in how they test the units and are even amateurish in installing the units. When you test different units the machines must be identical. The application of tim must be identical. The ambient temperature must be measured accurately and must be identical. Linus and Martins liguid coolong lab are the among the best of the reviewers and they found the Swiftech to be shoulders above the kraken 60 and even H100i and H110i.


h220 absolutely destroys it. sorry . linus is one person i dont trust with cooling reviews. he does some cool/good reviews... but no not cooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> If that is all metallic like their Liquid Ultra it is not a good idea. It is conductive andany micro leak could destroy the cpu and water block. The best non-conductive tim is IC Diamond. Far better than both AS5 and the MX stuff.


nope. if the liquid leaks your screwed anyway, does not matter what tim you use...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I have 2 7950's being delivered tomorrow, already have one heatkiller block and will order the second one soon. Using this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36182 to connect them... A parallel config would simply mean inlet on the top left and outlet on the top right correct?


see below read your manual to find correct orientation.
but with parallel you can have 1 tube on top and bottom ( opposite sides{left right } ) or both on top or bottom.
all parallel means is it goes into both GPUs and leaves both gpus without having to go through one then the other, it goes through both at the same time
here is a great write up from swiftech scroll down to see the diagrams
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> with two connections between the two cards. The bridge you linked apparently allows both types of operation, parallel and serial.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if I fill / drain my loop from the built in Reservoir for the H220 / H320, then I shouldn't have to do that right?


fill it from the highest point in your case. ( quick answer )


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Very nice results!


Thanks! I wish I would have paid more attention to details on "designing" this layout though. The case airflow is crap. It's just not designed for this. Corsair is pushing the AIO deal too with thier line of products and other than us CRYING out to them to build the 900D in which I was too late to the party, all of their cases are designed for their stuff to be in it. So there is almost always some level of modding involved with Corsair cases.

Can't wait to move to a Case Labs or LD someday this year. I really should have done more research on everything...









I am actually considering selling everything in about 6-8 months anyway and take the losses to bolster a new build in the Spring.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well.... no. asetek is just another sue happy junk company that has no intent to improve, just wants to sue people to make monies.... + their pump is beyond weak. patent troll failure.
> correct.
> because 99% of reviews are junk. esp when it comes to cooling.... for watercooling only person i have found to trust is martin @ martinsliquidlab.org
> h220 absolutely destroys it. sorry . linus is one person i dont trust with cooling reviews. he does some cool/good reviews... but no not cooling
> nope. if the liquid leaks your screwed anyway, does not matter what tim you use...
> see below read your manual to find correct orientation.
> but with parallel you can have 1 tube on top and bottom ( opposite sides{left right } ) or both on top or bottom.
> all parallel means is it goes into both GPUs and leaves both gpus without having to go through one then the other, it goes through both at the same time
> here is a great write up from swiftech scroll down to see the diagrams
> +1
> fill it from the highest point in your case. ( quick answer )


So what is the issue with conductivity? Why is it considered a risk factor?
Of course when you said it matters not what tim is used you were saying that in reference to a small leak. As far as thermal properties it can be quite important.


----------



## Mega Man

correct about thermal properties.

they key to ANY conductive tim ( CLU CLP AS5 ) is not to get it on anything that conducts electricity ( pins, caps traces ect ......) IE dont get it on your mobo, if doing your NB dont get it on resistors BESIDES the die . and please guys... dont get in to the as5 is not conductive it is capacitive ( spelling getting tired atm .... and really dont care about meh spelling....

so long story shot keep it on your IHS and not on your board. dont put too much on, but the recommended amount on it ....

fyi oz the other thing about CLU and i think CLP is also not to use it on aluminum as it eats it. however this is not a problem in the case of the h220/h320


----------



## EarlZ

Has martin compared the H220 vs the H110 or X60?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I might be ordering the H220 pretty soon, is the thermal paste included with it as good as a TX4 since the only thermal paste I have is the cool laboratory pro


I didn't find any temp difference between the Swiftech TIM and my IC Diamond.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correct about thermal properties.
> 
> they key to ANY conductive tim ( CLU CLP AS5 ) is not to get it on anything that conducts electricity ( pins, caps traces ect ......) IE dont get it on your mobo, if doing your NB dont get it on resistors BESIDES the die . and please guys... dont get in to the as5 is not conductive it is capacitive ( spelling getting tired atm .... and really dont care about meh spelling....
> 
> so long story shot keep it on your IHS and not on your board. dont put too much on, but the recommended amount on it ....
> 
> fyi oz the other thing about CLU and i think CLP is also not to use it on aluminum as it eats it. however this is not a problem in the case of the h220/h320


Putting aside the risks, has anyone compared the Stock paste that came with the H220 vs TX4 vs CLP.


----------



## Mega Man

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/10/


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I might be ordering the H220 pretty soon, is the thermal paste included with it as good as a TX4 since the only thermal paste I have is the cool laboratory pro
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find any temp difference between the Swiftech TIM and my IC Diamond.
Click to expand...

If thats the case then I will not order the TX4 to save some $


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case then I will not order the TX4 to save some $


I only got 2 applications out of the Swiftech tube, so that's the only downside.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I didn't find any temp difference between the Swiftech TIM and my IC Diamond.


I know... I'm new to WC but NOT at all new to building. I found that it's almost always about application as long as the quality is there with the TIM.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/10/


What that graph translates to me is that the H220 performs 1-2c better at a lower noise level, what it does not tell me is how it performs against a 140x2 radiator.. I would speculate that they are going to be pretty equal mainly due to the radiator size.

I want to get the proper expectations when I decide to order the kit, if its gonna "destroy" the X60 then I should be expecting something like a 5-10c reduction in temps at the same or lower noise level, If I have that expectation and when I get the kit and it either equals out or loses to the X60 then it would be a disappointment but if the expectation is properly set then I would be impressed.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I know... I'm new to WC but NOT at all new to building. I found that it's almost always about application as long as the quality is there with the TIM.


Even with people saying they see a difference in TIM's, its not like the difference is so great that its going to make any difference in the CPU being overclocked or the life of the chip.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> What that graph translates to me is that the H220 performs 1-2c better at a lower noise level, what it does not tell me is how it performs against a 140x2 radiator.. I would speculate that they are going to be pretty equal mainly due to the radiator size.
> 
> I want to get the proper expectations when I decide to order the kit, if its gonna "destroy" the X60 then I should be expecting something like a 5-10c reduction in temps at the same or lower noise level, If I have that expectation and when I get the kit and it either equals out or loses to the X60 then it would be a disappointment but if the expectation is properly set then I would be impressed.


Size isn't all its cracked up to be when a bigger rad out of aluminum doesn't dissipate heat as well as a copper one.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> What that graph translates to me is that the H220 performs 1-2c better at a lower noise level, what it does not tell me is how it performs against a 140x2 radiator.. I would speculate that they are going to be pretty equal mainly due to the radiator size.
> 
> I want to get the proper expectations when I decide to order the kit, if its gonna "destroy" the X60 then I should be expecting something like a 5-10c reduction in temps at the same or lower noise level, If I have that expectation and when I get the kit and it either equals out or loses to the X60 then it would be a disappointment but if the expectation is properly set then I would be impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> Size isn't all its cracked up to be when a bigger rad out of aluminum doesn't dissipate heat as well as a copper one.
Click to expand...

Point taken but the H100i is also aluminum. I just want to have the proper expectations set. Even if the H220 will end up equal or worse its gonna be a lot easier to sell compared to the X60.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case then I will not order the TX4 to save some $
> 
> 
> 
> I only got 2 applications out of the Swiftech tube, so that's the only downside.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, I found my old TIM that came with the D14 if I do need to remount the H220 at least I will have a spare tube.


----------



## Mega Man

if you can not tell which is more silent or cooler with all those graphs.... well i really cant help you. he breaks down EVERYTHING you just asked for. if it were all on one graph you probably would not be able to read it....

side note it took me all of 5 mins to find that review and that page... did you even look at or read it ? cause it seems to me you did not. if you had ALL of your questions would of been answered.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you can not tell which is more silent or cooler with all those graphs.... well i really cant help you. he breaks down EVERYTHING you just asked for. if it were all on one graph you probably would not be able to read it....
> 
> side note it took me all of 5 mins to find that review and that page... did you even look at or read it ? cause it seems to me you did not. if you had ALL of your questions would of been answered.


There is no need for you to come out that strong, I understand your commitment to the H220. I already said that from what I can see the H220 is more silent and cools more. The question that I am asking is how does it compare to the 140MM radiator? I am currently reading the review but I am unable to find the answers that I need as of the moment.

If they have a direct comparison to a to the H110 or X60 then please point me to it, irregardless of the result I will be buying the H220, so please relax.
I also need to free up my optical drive since the X60 is taking up that space.


----------



## Ricey20

I think I have terrible luck. The pump on the replacement kit I got in June has died now just like my first kit.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Point taken but the H100i is also aluminum. I just want to have the proper expectations set. Even if the H220 will end up equal or worse its gonna be a lot easier to sell compared to the X60.
> Thanks for the heads up, I found my old TIM that came with the D14 if I do need to remount the H220 at least I will have a spare tube.


I went from the H110, to the H220, got better temps with the H220. The H110 is a 280mm RAD.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Point taken but the H100i is also aluminum. I just want to have the proper expectations set. Even if the H220 will end up equal or worse its gonna be a lot easier to sell compared to the X60.
> Thanks for the heads up, I found my old TIM that came with the D14 if I do need to remount the H220 at least I will have a spare tube.
> 
> 
> 
> I went from the H110, to the H220, got better temps with the H220. The H110 is a 280mm RAD.
Click to expand...

There we go, the right person to ask with a level headed response.. Around how much of an improvement did you get?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If thats the case then I will not order the TX4 to save some $
> 
> 
> 
> I only got 2 applications out of the Swiftech tube, so that's the only downside.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that, did they replace the entire kit or just sent you the pump ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There we go, the right person to ask with a level headed response.. Around how much of an improvement did you get?
> Sorry to hear that, did they replace the entire kit or just sent you the pump ?


Small gains, few degrees.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There is no need for you to come out that strong, I understand your commitment to the H220. I already said that from what I can see the H220 is more silent and cools more. The question that I am asking is how does it compare to the 140MM radiator? I am currently reading the review but I am unable to find the answers that I need as of the moment.
> 
> If they have a direct comparison to a to the H110 or X60 then please point me to it, irregardless of the result I will be buying the H220, so please relax.
> I also need to free up my optical drive since the X60 is taking up that space.


i have no commitment granted i like swiftech but i would much more recommend a custom loop

140 rads are not a very big improvement at ALL over 120mm rads. biggest reason is 140mm fans.... frankly suck in comparison to 120mm fans. 99% of the time the 120mm fans ( assuming same value/price ) will have more static pressure period .... again check martins if you dont believe me. again if you look most of the answers you are asking for are all there on martins web site.

people always think bigger numbers = better .... and usually wrong...
PCIE 3.0 ===== next to no improvement @ current gen over pcie 2.0, 140mm rad has to be better then a 120mm rad..... again no. 140mm fan has to be better then a 120 .... no not usually but it depends on use.... push +pull on a thin rad ( IE any aio cooler ) is gonna mek my temps drop. assuming you are using good rad fans.... again no you will be lucky to get 1c difference.

please note this is not directed toward you. this is a general statement. you want proof check martins... he has all these answers.


----------



## EarlZ

You keep telling me that all the info I need is at martins site but I am unable to find most of it there so its quite obvious that i have either missed it or havent seen that part yet. You would have done me a favor by putting up a link to what I needed aside from the H100i comparison. Sure martin has all the answers, finding it on his site is proving a bit difficult on my end as non frequent/first time visitor.

But I appreciate you trying to push me to dig deeper on his site/review.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> What that graph translates to me is that the H220 performs 1-2c better at a lower noise level, what it does not tell me is how it performs against a 140x2 radiator.. I would speculate that they are going to be pretty equal mainly due to the radiator size.
> 
> I want to get the proper expectations when I decide to order the kit, if its gonna "destroy" the X60 then I should be expecting something like a 5-10c reduction in temps at the same or lower noise level, If I have that expectation and when I get the kit and it either equals out or loses to the X60 then it would be a disappointment but if the expectation is properly set then I would be impressed.


That is unrealistic, but under full load like when you are stress testing or doing some cpu intensive task, the H220 will usually otperform the H110i even with its larger radiator. The reasons: more powerful pump, better heat dispersing radiator (all copper fins), and thicker tubing which increases flow rates.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> What that graph translates to me is that the H220 performs 1-2c better at a lower noise level, what it does not tell me is how it performs against a 140x2 radiator.. I would speculate that they are going to be pretty equal mainly due to the radiator size.
> 
> I want to get the proper expectations when I decide to order the kit, if its gonna "destroy" the X60 then I should be expecting something like a 5-10c reduction in temps at the same or lower noise level, If I have that expectation and when I get the kit and it either equals out or loses to the X60 then it would be a disappointment but if the expectation is properly set then I would be impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> That is unrealistic, but under full load like when you are stress testing or doing some cpu intensive task, the H220 will usually otperform the H110i even with its larger radiator. The reasons: more powerful pump, better heat dispersing radiator (all copper fins), and thicker tubing which increases flow rates.
Click to expand...

I know its unrealistic right? But the way it was presented to me seems very real enough thats why I wanted to clarify and get the right expectation. Anyway I ordered the kit.

Has anyone here reported leaking even with out expanding the kit?


----------



## identitycrisis

Quick question for you guys, I noticed that the H220s are withdrawn from the US Market. How do you guys get them now? used only? ebay? order them over seas?

Edit*** I didnt realize they just got pulled in the past month, that's pretty bad.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> I think I have terrible luck. The pump on the replacement kit I got in June has died now just like my first kit.


Makes me wonder how you're connecting this to the motherboard, are you using the included PWM splitter with the pump in position 1 (the red one)?

If you aren't, your motherboard is likely voltage modulating the header, even if it has 4 pins, and this has been shown to kill the H220 pump electronics pretty fast.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*
> 
> Quick question for you guys, I noticed that the H220s are withdrawn from the US Market. How do you guys get them now? used only? ebay? order them over seas?
> 
> Edit*** I didnt realize they just got pulled in the past month, that's pretty bad.


NICX.ca









It's a patent troll by Asetek, and we are just waiting to see what happens. Swiftech aren't infringing but its easier and cheaper to drop sales in the US, when they can't meet their global demands anyway.


----------



## identitycrisis

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately NCIX wants $150 for the H220 as a pre order (which is fine) but wants $40 shipping to the US. For that kind of cash Ill just buy a XSPC Raystorm kit or save some money and get a kraken x60, water 2.0 or a H110 or something.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What program are you measuring the RPM with? Afew have been known to falsely report RPM.


Doesn't matter. The pump's just not reporting RPM, or something spontaneously went bad with my motherboard's CPU fan headers.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Doesn't matter. The pump's just not reporting RPM, or something spontaneously went bad with my motherboard's CPU fan headers.


I don't think you understand what I'm saying. People is thr past had a problem with either Asus Suite or speedfan (can't remember which), that the program would stop reporting rpms sometimes. Usually switching to the opposite program usually proved the program faulty rather than the kit. If neither work, I would check in the BIOS to see if it's reported there.


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering what's the best speed to keep the H220 pump at for lowest temps.Low,med,or higher. Just curious on what everybody's running..


----------



## Phelan

Hey guys, just a heads up, I love my H220, but I will be selling it soon in favor of the Apogee Drive II. The H220 can easily handle my loop, but seeing as that my total build is approaching $4000 invested, I decided I should get the big brother to match the overall aesthetics, since I also have 2 Komodo blocks, and the g1/4 ports and light-up logo will match nicely. I'm still very passionate about the H220, can help answer most any questions, and will still be managing the owner's thread. I will also soon be starting an Apogee Drive 2/ H20 Elite kit owners club soon.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just wondering what's the best speed to keep the H220 pump at for lowest temps.Low,med,or higher. Just curious on what everybody's running..


If just the CPU in the loop, 1200-1500 should be fine. Temp difference there from max rpm is about 1*C or less.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately NCIX wants $150 for the H220 as a pre order (which is fine) but wants $40 shipping to the US. For that kind of cash Ill just buy a XSPC Raystorm kit or save some money and get a kraken x60, water 2.0 or a H110 or something.


Its not $40 to ship to US. Make sure you go through the checkout to see exactly the shipping cost.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There is no need for you to come out that strong, I understand your commitment to the H220. I already said that from what I can see the H220 is more silent and cools more. The question that I am asking is how does it compare to the 140MM radiator? I am currently reading the review but I am unable to find the answers that I need as of the moment.
> 
> If they have a direct comparison to a to the H110 or X60 then please point me to it, irregardless of the result I will be buying the H220, so please relax.
> I also need to free up my optical drive since the X60 is taking up that space.


You can also have a direct comparison between h110, x60 and h220 here:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6716/closing-the-loop-ii-new-liquid-coolers-from-corsair-and-swiftech/4

h220 is smaller (rad size) but comes with better fans and pump, possible expand ability, and perform equally or better at same or lower noise rates that the Asetek units (e.g h110 and x60) besides being able to install much easier in terms of case compatibility. I can't stand my computer turned into a jet in terms of noise and I have owned several corsair and one x60 recently and I can say that they do not compare in performance (noise x temperature delta over ambient) with the h220. It does not blow out of the water in temperature but it gives you similar or better delta for temps at much lower noise so that's a win in my book.


----------



## identitycrisis

Thanks for the tip, $175 is still a bit steep for an all in one. might as well buy a XSPC Raystorm kit.

bummer.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I don't think you understand what I'm saying. People is thr past had a problem with either Asus Suite or speedfan (can't remember which), that the program would stop reporting rpms sometimes. Usually switching to the opposite program usually proved the program faulty rather than the kit. If neither work, I would check in the BIOS to see if it's reported there.


I do understand. It doesn't matter where you read it from. Nothing, including the BIOS reports the RPM.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*
> 
> Thanks for the tip, $175 is still a bit steep for an all in one. might as well buy a XSPC Raystorm kit.
> 
> bummer.


So how much is the shipping from NCIX.ca to the states? By looking at the price which is $149 for the H220, so the shipping has to be $25? Yea compare to the X60 or the H100i, it's like $75 more expensive and the performance is only a few degrees better. Might as well as getting a custom kit.


----------



## Ricey20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Makes me wonder how you're connecting this to the motherboard, are you using the included PWM splitter with the pump in position 1 (the red one)?
> 
> If you aren't, your motherboard is likely voltage modulating the header, even if it has 4 pins, and this has been shown to kill the H220 pump electronics pretty fast.
> NICX.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a patent troll by Asetek, and we are just waiting to see what happens. Swiftech aren't infringing but its easier and cheaper to drop sales in the US, when they can't meet their global demands anyway.


My first kit was connected via mobo. The replacement was connected via PWM Splitter.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I do understand. It doesn't matter where you read it from. Nothing, including the BIOS reports the RPM.


Gotchya. It sounds like you have a faulty splitter. If you contact BramSLI he can get you setup for a replacement splitter.


----------



## michael-ocn

That's a nice roundup review of a bunch of coolers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can also have a direct comparison between h110, x60 and h220 here:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6716/closing-the-loop-ii-new-liquid-coolers-from-corsair-and-swiftech/4
> 
> h220 is smaller (rad size) but comes with better fans and pump, possible expand ability, and perform equally or better at same or lower noise rates that the Asetek units (e.g h110 and x60) besides being able to install much easier in terms of case compatibility. I can't stand my computer turned into a jet in terms of noise and I have owned several corsair and one x60 recently and I can say that they do not compare in performance (noise x temperature delta over ambient) with the h220. It does not blow out of the water in temperature but it gives you similar or better delta for temps at much lower noise so that's a win in my book.


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So how much is the shipping from NCIX.ca to the states? By looking at the price which is $149 for the H220, so the shipping has to be $25? Yea compare to the X60 or the H100i, it's like $75 more expensive and the performance is only a few degrees better. Might as well as getting a custom kit.


Actually I think it was $19 so it would be around $168 or $170 shipped

These patent things really ruin it for the consumer.


----------



## selk22

Threw in a cold cathode to give a little light to the h220 and I really like the way it came out. I will be replacing the corsair sp-120's with swiftech helix's because these sp-120's are the loudest and worst fans iv ever used. I know there is a lot of hype surrounding them but I am not a fan. Anyway its been a few pages since a h220 pic and we have to keep prospective buyers interested







lol


----------



## Phelan

Nice!


----------



## bond32

Corsair sp120's have some of the best airflow/pressure/sound just take a look at martin liquid labs. However for this rad, slower fans are slightly better. Also you have 2 different kinds of fans in push pull which is sometimes considered not good.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Corsair sp120's have some of the best airflow/pressure/sound just take a look at martin liquid labs. However for this rad, slower fans are slightly better. Also you have 2 different kinds of fans in push pull which is sometimes considered not good.


Yeah I never said temps were not great. I understand that about differing fans which is one of the main reasons im ordering the helix's. In regards to the Sp-120's like I said they have alot of hype and people tend to really enjoy them. I have been building pc's my whole life and had yet to have a fan die on me until I started using Sp-120s.. One died within 2 months the replacement I bought the engine inside randomly makes a terrible grinding noise. So many people can keep using the Corsair's and I will continue to use the af-140's(One of the best fans iv had) but my luck with sp-120's is bad and I dont plan to continue supporting them.

EDIT: Not looking for approval from the h220 thread posters, I just want to post some pics for people excited for the h220 who scan this thread waiting for the package to arrive! (Like I did







)


----------



## higgsboozin

Ah I really loved my H220 for the first month I had it! Now the pump stops working randomly and it is driving me insane. Any ideas why it would just stop working randomly? I will be playing a game, or just sitting at desktop with a browser and get an alert saying my cpu is at 100c.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*
> 
> Quick question for you guys, I noticed that the H220s are withdrawn from the US Market. How do you guys get them now? used only? ebay? order them over seas?
> 
> Edit*** I didnt realize they just got pulled in the past month, that's pretty bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Makes me wonder how you're connecting this to the motherboard, are you using the included PWM splitter with the pump in position 1 (the red one)?
> 
> If you aren't, your motherboard is likely voltage modulating the header, even if it has 4 pins, and this has been shown to kill the H220 pump electronics pretty fast.
> NICX.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a patent troll by Asetek, and we are just waiting to see what happens. Swiftech aren't infringing but its easier and cheaper to drop sales in the US, when they can't meet their global demands anyway.


this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Corsair sp120's *Deltas* have some of the best airflow/pressure/sound just take a look at martin liquid labs. However for this rad, slower fans are slightly better. Also you have 2 different kinds of fans in push pull which is sometimes considered not good.


i fixed it for you !~


----------



## Imprezzion

Highflow in Holland has the H320 in stock now!

I ordered mine right away.

Now I just hope and pray to god it'll fit inside my case







It has the room for a 360 rad easily but i'm never all too sure


----------



## GingertronMk1

Peeps with Arc Midi R2s (I know you're there), how much of a pain in the butt was it to fit an H220 into your case? Was rear fan clearance an issue?


----------



## EarlZ

Kit now in transit


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Threw in a cold cathode to give a little light to the h220 and I really like the way it came out. I will be replacing the corsair sp-120's with swiftech helix's because these sp-120's are the loudest and worst fans iv ever used. I know there is a lot of hype surrounding them but I am not a fan. Anyway its been a few pages since a h220 pic and we have to keep prospective buyers interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Your source of noise is not the SP120, its the vibrations from using 2 different types of fans, you starve the one and cause all kinds of bad sound profile. If you insist on using 2 types of fans on a radiator, put the helix with the helix in P/P, and the SP120 with the other SP120 in P/P. In short, you're doing it wrong. My SP120s are much quieter than the helices in my Arc Midi R2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Peeps with Arc Midi R2s (I know you're there), how much of a pain in the butt was it to fit an H220 into your case? Was rear fan clearance an issue?


Was a breeze, I did have an issue when trying to put the swivel barbs backwards, and you might have an issue if you use the lower OD bay, but other than that, dropped right in.


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Just ordered my H320 from NCIX. Hopefully I don't have to wait ~3 weeks like when I ordered the gtx 670 :/


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Gotchya. It sounds like you have a faulty splitter. If you contact BramSLI he can get you setup for a replacement splitter.


I'm not using the splinter because the helix fans aren't attached to the radiator. I'm using voltage controlled fans. All the PWM headers on the motherboard stopped reading the RPM of the pump at the same time, so I'm assuming it's the pump.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I'm not using the splinter because the helix fans aren't attached to the radiator. I'm using voltage controlled fans. All the PWM headers on the motherboard stopped reading the RPM of the pump at the same time, so I'm assuming it's the pump.


Possibly related, you should be using the splitter even if only using the pump, to make sure the pump gets 12v all the time. If the pcb on the pump isn't reporting rpm anymore, it could be due to a voltage flux damaging it (under 12v to the pump will damage it). In other words, if the motherboard EVER modulated the pump speed with voltage instead of PWM (most PWM headers have a voltage option in the BIOS), it coulfd have set the damage in that you are now seeing the fruits of.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Possibly related, you should be using the splitter even if only using the pump, to make sure the pump gets 12v all the time. If the pcb on the pump isn't reporting rpm anymore, it could be due to a voltage flux damaging it (under 12v to the pump will damage it). In other words, if the motherboard EVER modulated the pump speed with voltage instead of PWM (most PWM headers have a voltage option in the BIOS), it coulfd have set the damage in that you are now seeing the fruits of.


also just because it is a 4 pin header does not mean it is pwm control


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Possibly related, you should be using the splitter even if only using the pump, to make sure the pump gets 12v all the time. If the pcb on the pump isn't reporting rpm anymore, it could be due to a voltage flux damaging it (under 12v to the pump will damage it). In other words, if the motherboard EVER modulated the pump speed with voltage instead of PWM (most PWM headers have a voltage option in the BIOS), it coulfd have set the damage in that you are now seeing the fruits of.


Thanks for that Phelan, and I can confirm that we've seen this type of behavior also when the pump plug isn't connected properly to the header. If you miss align the plug and have it missing a pin to the right or the left this will damage the pump's ability to send an RPM signal.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Highflow in Holland has the H320 in stock now!
> 
> I ordered mine right away.
> 
> Now I just hope and pray to god it'll fit inside my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has the room for a 360 rad easily but i'm never all too sure


There are any discount for OCN members like in FZCPU? Any discount code to High Flow?

Thanks


----------



## bond32

Just got 2 sp120 PE pwm in to replace the 2 helix fans. All I can say is wow, what a difference. The helix fans are good, but these sp120's are better I think. Its possible I knocked the helix fans off balance at some point as they were the loudest thing in my case, but it's much better now. Going to test load temps...


----------



## Phelan

Anybody have some Helix PWMs they don't want anymore? PM me if so. Or if you would rather some voltage-regulated Helix fans, I have 6 of those. I'm looking to switch all the Helix fans in my build to PWM.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Anybody have some Helix PWMs they don't want anymore? PM me if so. Or if you would rather some voltage-regulated Helix fans, I have 6 of those. I'm looking to switch all the Helix fans in my build to PWM.


Phelan, I have 3 Helix pwm fans. I was going to do push-pull, but all the dara says the radiator thickness does not justify it. I used a couple of screws from one fan. They are virgin , I never used the fans, as my H320 is still in transit, I can give them to you for $30 plus shipping. Say $7 . I'll send them USPS priority mail. Send me PM with details. Use paypal.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Your source of noise is not the SP120, its the vibrations from using 2 different types of fans, you starve the one and cause all kinds of bad sound profile. If you insist on using 2 types of fans on a radiator, put the helix with the helix in P/P, and the SP120 with the other SP120 in P/P. In short, you're doing it wrong. My SP120s are much quieter than the helices in my Arc Midi R2.
> Was a breeze, I did have an issue when trying to put the swivel barbs backwards, and you might have an issue if you use the lower OD bay, but other than that, dropped right in.


You really have no idea my situation and are assuming much from a picture.. the sp-120's I have had been tested on multiple rads and also just as case fans like I said in a post slightly down the page and also in my original post.. I am replacing these for Helix PWM's because having differing fans is not recommended. That being said for the couple weeks im waiting I dont mind using these sp-120's which for me are loud in any situation and the helix's seem to blow them away in terms of noise levels. Its a matter of preference and I am really not asking any questions or needing help here, I wanted to post a picture for people who just like to scan the h220 forums and look at the rigs. Thanks for trying to help me out


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Phelan, I have 3 Helix pwm fans. I was going to do push-pull, but all the dara says the radiator thickness does not justify it. I used a couple of screws from one fan. They are virgin , I never used the fans, as my H320 is still in transit, I can give them to you for $30 plus shipping. Say $7 . I'll send them USPS priority mail. Send me PM with details. Use paypal.


Your H320 already shipped? I thought NCIX doesn't have them yet until the 23th?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> You really have no idea my situation and are assuming much from a picture.. the sp-120's I have had been tested on multiple rads and also just as case fans like I said in a post slightly down the page and also in my original post.. I am replacing these for Helix PWM's because having differing fans is not recommended. That being said for the couple weeks im waiting I dont mind using these sp-120's which for me are loud in any situation and the helix's seem to blow them away in terms of noise levels. Its a matter of preference and I am really not asking any questions or needing help here, I wanted to post a picture for people who just like to scan the h220 forums and look at the rigs. Thanks for trying to help me out


So did you have those SP120s configured with other fans in P/P on your other rads? Because to me that picture looks like Helix's with SP120, which will cause a lot of noise.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> So did you have those SP120s configured with other fans in P/P on your other rads? Because to me that picture looks like Helix's with SP120, which will cause a lot of noise.


Yeah Iv used only sp-120's in the past these exact ones and others on different Rad's in push pull like the h70 rad and rs120 Iv used it with single fan and in P/P. Im sorry I just don't like the noise to performance they offer they have always been a to loud for my taste. I have a friend with h100i that has sp-120's on it in push pull and it is a loud ass setup, he plans to replace the fans asap and is not happy. In this picture you are correct about the fan setup, and really I have no idea why this is even in discussion.. I wasn't asking any questions or asking for any help. Like I stated previously.. I know that differing fans in p/p config is not ideal for noise but I have them on until my new helix fans arrive because it yielded better temps.

EDIT: Also every sp-120 I have bought has been from Fry's and I think this may have something to do with it because I believe they sell refurbished fans because in multiple purchases of the sp-120 at Frys I have had differing colored screws. Some black and some silver.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Yeah Iv used only sp-120's in the past these exact ones and others on different Rad's in push pull like the h70 rad and rs120 Iv used it with single fan and in P/P. Im sorry I just don't like the noise to performance they offer they have always been a to loud for my taste. I have a friend with h100i that has sp-120's on it in push pull and it is a loud ass setup, he plans to replace the fans asap and is not happy. In this picture you are correct about the fan setup, and really I have no idea why this is even in discussion.. I wasn't asking any questions or asking for any help. Like I stated previously.. I know that differing fans in p/p config is not ideal for noise but I have them on until my new helix fans arrive because it yielded better temps.
> 
> EDIT: Also every sp-120 I have bought has been from Fry's and I think this may have something to do with it because I believe they sell refurbished fans because in multiple purchases of the sp-120 at Frys I have had differing colored screws. Some black and some silver.


It's in discussion because you said they are noisy and you have them in a configuration which will cause lots of noise for any fan combination. That sucks if you are getting refurb fans you thought were new, but the point of the SP120s isn't to run at max, its to run at lower RPMs because they have higher static pressure when running slower, and being very very quiet. Noticably better than the helix for instance.

Either way, to each their own.. If you have tried it in other combinations keeping like fans with each other and you are simply unhappy with the SP120, then good luck with your fan search


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Possibly related, you should be using the splitter even if only using the pump, to make sure the pump gets 12v all the time. If the pcb on the pump isn't reporting rpm anymore, it could be due to a voltage flux damaging it (under 12v to the pump will damage it). In other words, if the motherboard EVER modulated the pump speed with voltage instead of PWM (most PWM headers have a voltage option in the BIOS), it coulfd have set the damage in that you are now seeing the fruits of.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> also just because it is a 4 pin header does not mean it is pwm control


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for that Phelan, and I can confirm that we've seen this type of behavior also when the pump plug isn't connected properly to the header. If you miss align the plug and have it missing a pin to the right or the left this will damage the pump's ability to send an RPM signal.


Well, since I've installed the pump, I haven't removed the cable from the CPU header, and it was in properly. Could it possibly have been the motherboard's fault?

Edit: I have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Well, since I've installed the pump, I haven't removed the cable from the CPU header, and it was in properly. Could it possibly have been the motherboard's fault?
> 
> Edit: I have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H


From time to time BIOS settings can be reversed automatically to default. Could be due to OC or even a power failure (electricity). If so would be wise to check what is the default option in your motherboard for the cpu 4 pin header. Is it in PWM mode or volt regulated mod? Make absolutely sure it is (and was) in PWM mode since as already stated volt regulation can cause the pump to fail.

good luck


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> From time to time BIOS settings can be reversed automatically to default. Could be due to OC or even a power failure (electricity). If so would be wise to check what is the default option in your motherboard for the cpu 4 pin header. Is it in PWM mode or volt regulated mod? Make absolutely sure it is (and was) in PWM mode since as already stated volt regulation can *will*cause the pump to fail.
> 
> good luck


fixed it for you


----------



## tw33k

About the Corsair SP-120 fans. I have 2 on my H100 and I can't hear them at all. I think they are great fans and will be adding 3 to the front of my Corsair 900D when I get around to building it next week.


----------



## BenchAndGames

*Why not change the form for join in the club, but with my H320 .....

Please, make this posible !!!!*


----------



## Sleepyluke

Oops quoted the wrong person ... Edited out and reposted below

Sorry


----------



## Sleepyluke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenchAndGames*
> 
> *Why not change the form for join in the club, but with my H320 .....
> 
> Please, make this posible !!!!*


Hey buddy ,, please tell us more about your new h320 .. I'm thinking of getting one as a upgrade from my h110

What did u upgrade from to it ?
What increase in cooling did u see ?
Are u using push pull on it ?
If so what fans are u using ?
And what is noise like on it ?
And any other info you got lol ?

Thx In advance


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> Hey buddy ,, please tell us more about your new h320 .. I'm thinking of getting one as a upgrade from my h110
> 
> What did u upgrade from to it ?
> What increase in cooling did u see ?
> Are u using push pull on it ?
> If so what fans are u using ?
> And what is noise like on it ?
> And any other info you got lol ?
> 
> Thx In advance


i went from h80 push / pull to h320 with stock fans on intake only

about 15c cooler on full load--though i did also rearrange the case fans a bit

and on idle from 3 feet away i cannot hear the h320-- on full stress i can hear it but its not unbearable

havent had the chance to try gaming or any other tests yet that are less severe than prime95 but still put a heavy load on it

but so far from me its


----------



## BenchAndGames

Upgrate from Corsair H100 + 4x Nidec 1850 RPM

Now I have 3x Nidec 1850 RPM + 3x Swiftech cooler

Difference:
2ºC - 5ºC IDLE
8ºC - 12ºC LOAD

No pump noise, I like this pump, its very silence, and 6x powerfull that pump to Corsair KIT.


----------



## Imprezzion

My H320 is mounted and running.

What a HUUUUUGE difference compared to my H100i.

Both mounted with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.
H100i had push-pull, so 4 fans, Enermax Apollish Vegas 120MM 2000RPM's @ full power.
H320 has the stock 3 Swiftech Helix fans in push @ PWM (100% @ 65c), and 3 Enermax Apollish Vegas 120mm 2000RPM's pull locked at 1200RPM.
Temp tests with 10 minutes of Large FFT Prime95 27.7 AVX and ambient of roughly 25c.

*4.8Ghz 1.312v:*
*H100i:* 58-63-64-62.
*H320:* 49-52-54-53.

*5.3Ghz 1.480v:*
*H100i:* 87-93-92-93 aka not safe to use.
*H320:* 73-81-81-77 aka perfectly fine.

Man am I stunned by the difference as the H320 does it with 1/4th of the noise and looks 10x better


----------



## Sleepyluke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> My H320 is mounted and running.
> 
> What a HUUUUUGE difference compared to my H100i.
> 
> Both mounted with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.
> H100i had push-pull, so 4 fans, Enermax Apollish Vegas 120MM 2000RPM's @ full power.
> H320 has the stock 3 Swiftech Helix fans in push @ PWM (100% @ 65c), and 3 Enermax Apollish Vegas 120mm 2000RPM's pull locked at 1200RPM.
> Temp tests with 10 minutes of Large FFT Prime95 27.7 AVX and ambient of roughly 25c.
> 
> *4.8Ghz 1.312v:*
> *H100i:* 58-63-64-62.
> *H320:* 49-52-54-53.
> 
> *5.3Ghz 1.480v:*
> *H100i:* 87-93-92-93 aka not safe to use.
> *H320:* 73-81-81-77 aka perfectly fine.
> 
> Man am I stunned by the difference as the H320 does it with 1/4th of the noise and looks 10x better


Wow that is a epic difference 

I so want one .. Every where I look in the uk are out of stock right now :-(

Is their anybody out their that has upgraded from the h110 ?


----------



## NIK1

Anyone test the H220 vs. the H320 for temps at idle and full load under prime. Just curious on how much better the H320 would be.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> My H320 is mounted and running.
> 
> What a HUUUUUGE difference compared to my H100i.
> 
> Both mounted with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.
> H100i had push-pull, so 4 fans, Enermax Apollish Vegas 120MM 2000RPM's @ full power.
> H320 has the stock 3 Swiftech Helix fans in push @ PWM (100% @ 65c), and 3 Enermax Apollish Vegas 120mm 2000RPM's pull locked at 1200RPM.
> Temp tests with 10 minutes of Large FFT Prime95 27.7 AVX and ambient of roughly 25c.
> 
> *4.8Ghz 1.312v:*
> *H100i:* 58-63-64-62.
> *H320:* 49-52-54-53.
> 
> *5.3Ghz 1.480v:*
> *H100i:* 87-93-92-93 aka not safe to use.
> *H320:* 73-81-81-77 aka perfectly fine.
> 
> Man am I stunned by the difference as the H320 does it with 1/4th of the noise and looks 10x better


I would hesitate to combine types of fans in push pull. I would advise you use your 4 vegas fans in P/P together, and 2 Helix together in P/P rather than 3/3 of each, this is because the two types of fans could likely result in strange or warbling sound profiles at differing RPMs, and could potentially damage your fans.


----------



## Imprezzion

I agree with the noise.. It doesn't sound quite silent when the Helix's decide to ramp up









I need to buy another few Vegas's but they are not for sale anymore...

I could ofcourse just buy 6 of their follow-ups. 6 Enermax Everest Advance's..

That way they are all the same. Just a shame I can't control them through PWM... Like pretty much every fan in existence these days.

Why don't the cool looking fans come with PWM a bit more often..

P.S. Still backing down to 5.1Ghz for now. Ambients are at 26c now which is rather high for Holland and it hit 68c in BF3. But then again, i'm pumping 1.488v through the poor thing


----------



## Sleepyluke

I currently use vipers on my h110 , what type of fan for push pull would you guys say is best to use ... Go with stock and add someone of the stock fans .. Or is their a better make for the h320 when I get it ?

I was told at the time of buying my rig that vipers would be best of a push pull set up .. What do you all think ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> I currently use vipers on my h110 , what type of fan for push pull would you guys say is best to use ... Go with stock and add someone of the stock fans .. Or is their a better make for the h320 when I get it ?
> 
> I was told at the time of buying my rig that vipers would be best of a push pull set up .. What do you all think ?


Push pull is overrated. Look at the tests... It provides maybe 1-2 degree difference. But if you insist on going push pull make sure you get the same fans all around.


----------



## Sleepyluke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Push pull is overrated. Look at the tests... It provides maybe 1-2 degree difference. But if you insist on going push pull make sure you get the same fans all around.


I got that bit buddy ;-)

But what type or make of fan will be the best , ie give you the coolest temps with the least amount of noise for the job ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> I got that bit buddy ;-)
> 
> But what type or make of fan will be the best , ie give you the coolest temps with the least amount of noise for the job ?


Likely any of the highly rated static pressure fans, sp120's, noctua nf-f12 are prolly best, scythe ap15's... as long as you have 4 of the same fan (or 6 in a 360). Like the other poster said, if you have fans of different kinds you can damage them potentially with air turbulence plus there will be added noise.

If you are looking for a solid fan for the included rads with the swiftech kits I would recommend the corsair SP-120, mainly for the price. It performs high, almost to the level of the noctua nf-f12 but the price of 2 runs around $26 where as the noctua is $24 for 1. Here are a few links:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C249QNE/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the corsair, also make sure you get the PWM version unless you have a way to control the voltage as they are loud at full speed.

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00632FL8A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376675837&sr=1-1&keywords=noctua+nf-f12 for the Noctua, if you can afford it. These are likely the best. However they do perform best in push so if you have solely a pull application the corsair fans might be better. These are pwm as well however they can be voltage controlled without any issues.

Edit: just a little info, the swiftech QP series radiators which are included in these kits work best with slower rpm fans. That's not to say they won't work well with high rpm fans but they work best with slower ones. I was using the included helix fans with my system with no real issues on temps other than noise until I just purchased an additional 2 sp-120 PE pwm fans and they are performing much better over the helix fans. They are also very quiet, so if anyone wants to replace the helix fans I would highly recommend them. Simply plugged them into the splitter, and on my Asus board have the cpu fan set to "standard" which at idle, the pump runs around 2100 rpm. The fans are running at a speed where I can't hear them.


----------



## Sleepyluke

I was just reading up .. And I see that my h110 has 140mm fans x4 and the new h320 has 120mm fans on it ? I know it would have 6x 120mm but , would give better cooling I'm wondering ?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> I was just reading up .. And I see that my h110 has 140mm fans x4 and the new h320 has 120mm fans on it ? I know it would have 6x 120mm but , would give better cooling I'm wondering ?


6 as opposed to 3 would give better cooling, but to me it is negligible. Honestly if you want some fans better than the helix I would recommend just getting 3 noctua nf-f12's and put them in push.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I have been using noctuas fans for years now and I could say I am a fan of it (pun intended). I do have a pair of nf-12 and while they work good they do produce noise while attached to radiators, especially above 800 or 900 rpm. I would say they are not the best option in terms of performance (thermal x noise) and cost out there. I would rather go with gentle typhoons ap-15 and drop speed to 1000-1200 rpm. You will get much better cooling with less noise and less cost too. In fact that was the route I took it for my two 240 mm rads.


----------



## Sleepyluke

So which do you think will perform better h320 or the h110 ?

H320 6x 120mm fans

H110 4x 140mm fans

???


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> So which do you think will perform better h320 or the h110 ?
> 
> H320 6x 120mm fans
> 
> H110 4x 140mm fans
> 
> ???


Well, if the H220 already beats the H110 then I would think that the H320 should also beat it.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Assuming equally-performing fans, H320. 6x120>4x140


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> I got that bit buddy ;-)
> 
> But what type or make of fan will be the best , ie give you the coolest temps with the least amount of noise for the job ?


Bond is right the sp-120's are great at lower voltage and have great SP which yields good temps. Like he said though at full speed they can be rather loud. I really don't see to much difference between 2 sp-120's and 2 Helix pwms on my h220. About 1-3c difference, the helix's at the stock rpms vs the stock sp-120 rpms IMO seem to be less loud. Again he is also right about not really needing P/P because the most iv seen is about 2-3c difference in my setup. Thats because of the thickness of the h220/h320 rad.. On my h70 before with sp-120's when I put it in p/p it was about 4-6c difference from just one fan. So I think it depends on the radiator size. Bond is a smart dude, Id listen to him but make sure you lower the rpm's on those bad boys if your a noise freak!


----------



## EarlZ

For a 350D top mounted h220, push or pull? Helix or gt ap15?


----------



## GingertronMk1

I'd say pull, as it's easier to clean, and the general consensus around here seems to be AP-15s.


----------



## Gabrielzm

BTW. Since we start discussing fans I think would be useful for a lot of people the series of fans comparisons in Martinliquidlab:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/04/24/fan-testing-round-11/

there are others too since is a long series of comparisons.

And this simple post here too. It explains why specs listed in fan boxes (like static pressure and air flow) can not give you a good indication of real world applications (like in radiators).

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/

Very good reading if you take 5 minutes...


----------



## michael-ocn

OMG... every which way conceivable, an h320 will absolutely destroy an h110... larger rad, better rad materials, more powerful pump, more fans... just no contest whatsoever. An h220 vs an h110 is at least a somewhat fair fight, but against an h320... fuggetabout it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> So which do you think will perform better h320 or the h110 ?
> 
> H320 6x 120mm fans
> 
> H110 4x 140mm fans
> 
> ???


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Push pull is overrated *on thin rads and a must on thick ones !*. Look at the tests... It provides maybe 1-2 degree difference. But if you insist on going push pull make sure you get the same fans all around.


fixed it for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> I got that bit buddy ;-)
> 
> But what type or make of fan will be the best , ie give you the coolest temps with the least amount of noise for the job ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I have been using noctuas fans for years now and I could say I am a fan of it (pun intended). I do have a pair of nf-12 and while they work good they do produce noise while attached to radiators, especially above 800 or 900 rpm. I would say they are not the best option in terms of performance (thermal x noise) and cost out there. I would rather go with gentle typhoons ap-15 and drop speed to 1000-1200 rpm. You will get much better cooling with less noise and less cost too. In fact that was the route I took it for my two 240 mm rads.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> So which do you think will perform better h320 or the h110 ?
> 
> H320 6x 120mm fans
> 
> H110 4x 140mm fans
> 
> ???


H320 hands down


----------



## OPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Push pull is a *must* on thick ones !


Says who? Have a link to any benchmarks?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> Says who? Have a link to any benchmarks?


fwiw, mega man sees the world in black and white near as i can tell







the way i see it.... if one set of fans results in decent temps... um.... another set isn't really needed


----------



## Watagump

I heard a rumor that everything posted on the interwebz is true.


----------



## OPanda

What was the point of that post?


----------



## Blackops_2

Is there any chance of the H220/H320 coming back to the U.S.? I really want one for this 8320.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Is there any chance of the H220/H320 coming back to the U.S.? I really want one for this 8320.


Yes, maybe, who knows







I think coolermaster is taking asetek to task on the legal BS. Prediction... the inevitable conclusion is... other vendors are going to be able to manufacture these kinds of devices too... gee whiz big surprise! Asetek's response to swiftech's request for a non-exclusive license was to obnoxiously ignore the request (a-hole lawyers).

The real question is "when"... idk?

In the interim, these can be purchased thru retailers in canada and shipped to the US afaik.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Is there any chance of the H220/H320 coming back to the U.S.? I really want one for this 8320.


It has been posted here several times you can obtain it at ncix.ca a Canadian website for just a few dollars more in shipping costs.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sleepyluke*
> 
> So which do you think will perform better h320 or the h110 ?
> 
> H320 6x 120mm fans
> 
> H110 4x 140mm fans
> 
> ???


That is a dumb question a copper 360mm radiator versus an aluminum 280mm radiator. A strong pump vs a weak pump . A superior water block vs a mediocre one. Da.I guess I can't figure out the answer.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> Says who? Have a link to any benchmarks?
> 
> 
> 
> fwiw, mega man sees the world in black and white near as i can tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the way i see it.... if one set of fans results in decent temps... um.... another set isn't really needed
Click to expand...

And he also points that the answer is somewhere out there


----------



## Imprezzion

Now that we have this whole fan discussion, here's another question for ya guys.

I want to run Enermax Apollish 120mms on my H320 cause of the looks yeah? However, the higher RPM ones are no longer available and I only have 4 properly working ones left.

Point is, the 120mm 900RPM versions are widely available and very cheap. Will those 900RPM ones in push-pull generate enough flow / pressure for the H320? I mean, those fans on their own have dismal static pressure and like 40CFM flow max? But push-pull should fix that static pressure issue right?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Those 900rpm ones are not so good. 6 of those will equal 3 of the helix.
Mostly they are for looks, performance is below.


----------



## Imprezzion

I got 3 1700RPM Enermaxes.. Might be better off running those in pull only lol.

Or I can for the same cash as 6 900RPMs buy 6 AP15s and be done with it haha.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yes, maybe, who knows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think coolermaster is taking asetek to task on the legal BS. Prediction... the inevitable conclusion is... other vendors are going to be able to manufacture these kinds of devices too... gee whiz big surprise! Asetek's response to swiftech's request for a non-exclusive license was to obnoxiously ignore the request (a-hole lawyers).
> 
> The real question is "when"... idk?
> 
> In the interim, these can be purchased thru retailers in canada and shipped to the US afaik.


Glad to hear it, i'll be getting one then







gotta have something to reliably cool this heater.


----------



## sdmf74

check out the gentle typhoon AP-29PWM, and AP-30PWM's. from p. pc's they are a little pricey but they do the mod for ya and a really good job too. Braided wires and shrink.
However if you like the look of the white helix fans then you should check out the Noiseblocker NB-eloop fans for your rad. They look nicer(white & black) are built nicer,Quieter and perform much better than the stock fans!
They are a little pricey too but are available in 2 (3) pin and 2 pwm models. I use 4 of these as intake fans and they rock.


----------



## EarlZ

I just got the kit and now testing it, pump is definitely more audible than the X60.. by a significant margin but its not something that I would consider 'noisy' because I need to stick my ear beside the pump to hear it.
I cant hear any water moving around or any sign of air bubbles (which is good)
One of the fans is a dud.. it makes a audible noise like something is brushing against it, the other one is perfectly silent


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Installed a H220 kit today, on my sons 3770K system. great temps. Both fans are duds, VERY AUDIBLE. Again sounds like it is brushing against something.

Pump is also VERY AUDIBLE. I hope it is not a DOA and it settles over a few days. Laying the system on its side helped a little.

So far not overly impressed...........


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Installed a H220 kit today, on my sons 3770K system. great temps. Both fans are duds, VERY AUDIBLE. Again sounds like it is brushing against something.
> 
> Pump is also VERY AUDIBLE. I hope it is not a DOA and it settles over a few days. Laying the system on its side helped a little.
> 
> So far not overly impressed...........


tough luck on the fans for both of us..

Keep up posted about the pump though..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> Says who? Have a link to any benchmarks?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> fwiw, mega man sees the world in black and white near as i can tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the way i see it.... if one set of fans results in decent temps... um.... another set isn't really needed


LOL no i have experience. there is a difference.
as for proof you asked.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
shows push and push pull if you take a look at low rpm there is a ~2c difference. at high... it is even worse about the same on a thin rad

please also note this is dependent on rad design but any good rad now produced ( by any decent company ) are all designed for low speed operation.

60+mm need help simply due to the size of the rad ( i wouldnt worry to much if you were running a delta at full speed, but esp @ low speed you do need more oommph )

going old school with a cars heatercore... well of course push pull will help. but that would be due to fin density
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Installed a H220 kit today, on my sons 3770K system. great temps. Both fans are duds, VERY AUDIBLE. Again sounds like it is brushing against something.
> 
> Pump is also VERY AUDIBLE. I hope it is not a DOA and it settles over a few days. Laying the system on its side helped a little.
> 
> So far not overly impressed...........


odds are you have air in the impeller


----------



## EarlZ

How do we get that air out of the impeller?


----------



## Mega Man

see the opening post there is good instructions for that


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> see the opening post there is good instructions for that


Oh wait I thought you were pointing to the fan noise and not the pump noise. My pump sounds ok to be but the fan is VERY loud.


----------



## waterfirst

My H320 is on its way. I currently own a Coolermaster Cosmos 1000 which has everything I'm looking for in a case, except I'd have to saw a third hole into the top and even then I'm not sure if the H320 will fit. So I'm looking for a case that can fit the H320 inside the top, fans pushing out. (Without modding)

I'd also like the case to have:
- NO window
- front door
- air filters
- noise dampening set (available)
- cable management
- hdd on rubber suspension or similar dampening


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waterfirst*
> 
> My H320 is on its way. I currently own a Coolermaster Cosmos 1000 which has everything I'm looking for in a case, except I'd have to saw a third hole into the top and even then I'm not sure if the H320 will fit. So I'm looking for a case that can fit the H320 inside the top, fans pushing out. (Without modding)
> 
> I'd also like the case to have:
> - NO window
> - front door
> - air filters
> - noise dampening set (available)
> - cable management
> - hdd on rubber suspension or similar dampening


You wont fit the H320 on top. There is no proper mounting holes. You will need to cut the whole top, and mod it to secure.
The top spacing is incorrect, as it needs to be side by side, without any gaps.

Plus with the lack of proper vents on top, setting it as intake wont happen, unless you cut the plastic on top, if you want to set it as intake.
With the already limited internal airflow, setting as exhaust pull will have a performance impact.

As to what you ask for a case is stretching it, since most of what you want dont support a 360 rad.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Closest thing you'll get to that is the Corsair 800D, and fit a 700D side panel and some of that acoustic sticky foam (acoustipack and silverstone sell it).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> How do we get that air out of the impeller?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Oh wait I thought you were pointing to the fan noise and not the pump noise. My pump sounds ok to be but the fan is VERY loud.


You ask for instructions of how to take the air out of the impeller didn't you? As for the fan check if there is nothing loose in it (sometimes the sticker in the center can be loose and start making noise) then you will need to RMA.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Installed a H220 kit today, on my sons 3770K system. great temps. Both fans are duds, VERY AUDIBLE. Again sounds like it is brushing against something.
> 
> Pump is also VERY AUDIBLE. I hope it is not a DOA and it settles over a few days. Laying the system on its side helped a little.
> 
> So far not overly impressed...........


Please check how you're powering the pump and fans. If they are being powered from a voltage regulated header you're going to get noise and eventually damage these PWM devices. Please try using the PWM splitter to see if this resolves your issue. If you're already using the splitter then please let me know.


----------



## Imprezzion

What PWM fans would you guys recommend for the H320? Or basically any thin 360 rad?

Push-pull preferably just for looks. They can have a bit higher noise and such as they will only go full blast under game load which is when I wear my headset but I want them to be regulated through the PWM splitter that the H320 comes with.

Scythe doesn't make native PWM GT AP-15's or even AP-29's or anything and IDK what PWM fans are good on rads (silence is, again, not a requirement as on 20% any fan is quiet







)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> What PWM fans would you guys recommend for the H320? Or basically any thin 360 rad?
> 
> Push-pull preferably just for looks. They can have a bit higher noise and such as they will only go full blast under game load which is when I wear my headset but I want them to be regulated through the PWM splitter that the H320 comes with.
> 
> Scythe doesn't make native PWM GT AP-15's or even AP-29's or anything and IDK what PWM fans are good on rads (silence is, again, not a requirement as on 20% any fan is quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


You might try this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14646/fan-949/Noctua_NF-P12_120_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_P12_PWM.html?tl=g36c365s936&id=MnTAhckb&mv_pc=1260

They are expensive...Don't confuse with the f12 (newer model with more max static pressure). Those are noisier. I have both and the p12 does a pretty good job while testing in the h220.

You might consider this one too:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11111/fan-709/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Viper_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_AK-FN059.html?tl=g36c365s936&id=MnTAhckb&mv_pc=1849

or one of the noiseblockers...


----------



## Imprezzion

http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/17/Noiseblocker-NB_BlackSilentFan_120mm

That one? The noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XL-P(erformance)? It's 1000-2000RPM PWM and comes in blue which fits my color scheme and costs only €9.66 here.


----------



## GingertronMk1

You can't really go wrong with Noiseblockers.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/17/Noiseblocker-NB_BlackSilentFan_120mm
> 
> That one? The noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XL-P(erformance)? It's 1000-2000RPM PWM and comes in blue which fits my color scheme and costs only €9.66 here.


Sounds ok to me but I never had those to comment or give testimony first hand.


----------



## Imprezzion

I'm just going to take those, and about 3 meters of 12v LED strip so I can build myself some LED lighting for my cases top.

NZXT LED strips cost like, €25 while a simple 12v LED strip costs €2,50... All I needa do is solder a Molex to it and hook it up haha.


----------



## ez12a

noticed at 100% there was some slight trickling noise. Unmounted the rad (fill port down in my 600T) and laid it on top of my case with the fill port up. played a few games etc while it was in that orientation, opened it up and topped it back up and reinstalled the rad. No noise now. Seems like i have to top it off every 4 mo or so in my expanded h220 with the fill port down).

So far so good on the 2nd pump.


----------



## dajez

my h320 is inc next week^^


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> How do we get that air out of the impeller?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Oh wait I thought you were pointing to the fan noise and not the pump noise. My pump sounds ok to be but the fan is VERY loud.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You ask for instructions of how to take the air out of the impeller didn't you? As for the fan check if there is nothing loose in it (sometimes the sticker in the center can be loose and start making noise) then you will need to RMA.
Click to expand...

Like what I said I thought he was referring to the fans, they also have impellers


----------



## waterfirst

It seems you don't recommend putting a H320 in the top of a case to move out all the air. It also seems I'll have to rip apart half my Cosmos 1000 to fit the H320 in.
So setting my design and look preferences aside, which case (that doesn't require modding) do you recommend to get with the H320 and where should I install the H320 in it?
I'm looking for a "this will work without a problem and provide optimal results"-case now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Like what I said I thought he was referring to the fans, they also have impellers


Actually they don't. They have blades. And besides the question does not even make sense if you was thinking in terms of fans since the air is not trapped in the Fan in any way. Not trying to give you a hard time but...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waterfirst*
> 
> It seems you don't recommend putting a H320 in the top of a case to move out all the air. It also seems I'll have to rip apart half my Cosmos 1000 to fit the H320 in.
> So setting my design and look preferences aside, which case (that doesn't require modding) do you recommend to get with the H320 and where should I install the H320 in it?
> I'm looking for a "this will work without a problem and provide optimal results"-case now.


NZXT Switch, Phantom 820, Phantom 630.


----------



## EarlZ

Is there like an optimal orientation for the pump ?
As for the fan connector hub, how is the PWM controlled, over that same RPM monitor cable?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is there like an optimal orientation for the pump ?
> As for the fan connector hub, how is the PWM controlled, over that same RPM monitor cable?


The PWM signal generated by the CPU_Fan header on the mobo is fed to the devices connected to the hub.
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx


----------



## CoolProject

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> NZXT Switch, Phantom 820, Phantom 630.


cooler master haf x okay for the Swiftech h320?


----------



## michael-ocn

caselabs makes some cases that are h320 ready


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> caselabs makes some cases that are h320 ready


CL cases are everything ready.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> cooler master haf x okay for the Swiftech h320?


The HAF X is also a good case for the H320.


----------



## Blackops_2

I don't imagine i'll be able to fit the h220 in my thermaltake Armor Extreme. Hopefully i can mount it on top.


----------



## bond32

Just curious, did you guys at Swiftech test the h320 in the corsair 540? Cause my 320 XP rad fits with less than an inch on top and below, that h320 may not fit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just curious, did you guys at Swiftech test the h320 in the corsair 540? Cause my 320 XP rad fits with less than an inch on top and below, that h320 may not fit.


I did test this kit in the 540 and it is a very tight fit. I was able to fit it in the front though. There's no way it will fit in the top.


----------



## bond32

Cool. This is a fantastic case, would be a shame if it didn't fit.

I am strongly considering making the switch to a full loop with the apogee HD block, mcr35x pump/res combo, the works. Would have to get all new fittings is one problem... I am cooling 2 7950's, one 320, and one 240 rad.


----------



## goddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What is that blue fan in this picture?


Logisys sf120 extreme quite ... used to be/ some will still be branded deepcool. pwm very quite mine run most of the time at the bottom end about 450m rpm but can spin up to about 1500. have never had an issue with sound even at full speed not very loud. have about 20 of them in various cases. I will note outside of the one at the bottom of the case in the pic you quoted I never use them on rads or heat sinks... this instance was more i did not have the normal fans i use for heat sinks/rads in yet... but these repalce all normal 120 case fans for me.

another note when i bought most of them they were 12.99 each now they are 23.99 each ... i would look else where or wait for a sale

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835999007


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> What PWM fans would you guys recommend for the H320? Or basically any thin 360 rad?
> 
> Push-pull preferably just for looks. They can have a bit higher noise and such as they will only go full blast under game load which is when I wear my headset but I want them to be regulated through the PWM splitter that the H320 comes with.
> 
> Scythe doesn't make native PWM GT AP-15's or even AP-29's or anything and IDK what PWM fans are good on rads (silence is, again, not a requirement as on 20% any fan is quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I highly recommend NB-ELOOP B12-P http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16920/fan-1050/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-P_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_PWM_Fan_-_800_-_2000_RPM_Hot_Item.html?id=kbiT6SUf&mv_pc=278
or if you want something slower rpm like the Noctua but much better, the B12-PS http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16921/fan-1051/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-PS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_PWM_Fan_-_400_-_1500_RPM_Hot_Item.html?id=kbiT6SUf&mv_pc=280
There isnt a whole lot of reviews out there on 'em but these fans are performing much better than I thought they would.

Also here are the native PWM scythe Ap-29's you mentioned
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36550

IMG_0963 (1000 x 750).jpg 223k .jpg file


----------



## Imprezzion

Ah lol so there are PWN AP-xx fans.. Shame I can't get them at a reasonable price in Holland..

Those ELOOPs look nice in terms of looks and specs but they cost double that what the NB XLP costs which looks better in my build..

I'll just go for the XLPs and 4x 50cm 12v SMD LED strips. That oughtta do it.


----------



## sdmf74

Anyone here hooked up a swiftech unit in a Corsair carbide 540 case yet? I think the h320 would be perfect for it.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Anyone here hooked up a swiftech unit in a Corsair carbide 540 case yet? I think the h320 would be perfect for it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I did test this kit in the 540 and it is a very tight fit. I was able to fit it in the front though. There's no way it will fit in the top.


Fitting confirmation in the 540 is literally a few post above yours


----------



## EarlZ

I havent installed the H220 yet but currently using the Intel Stock fan ( already sold the X60 ) I have the stock cooler connected to the CPU_FAN and I tried to control it via SpeedFan and it does not seem to work or is it not possible to control the intel stock fan ?


----------



## Imprezzion

BIOS PWM settings mate.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> BIOS PWM settings mate.


I have it at full speed under bios, would that matter? How is everyone controlling the pump/fan PWM real time ?

On my bios it also has a entry for "0.5 PWM / C" and goes upto "2.5 PWM / C" I am not sure what that means. But I would to understand how to control the pump via PWM, for the fans I am using a GT-A15 at 12v


----------



## Imprezzion

Well, in my ASUS BIOS I can set a min - max CPU TEMP range and a min - max % of speed for the PWM. That's what I use to cntrol it.

The pump is hooked up to CHA_FAN1 which is always @ 100%. Pump isn't noisy at all so I always run it full speed. Fans are set to CPU temps <40c = 20% PWM. CPU temps above 60c = 100% PWM. And in between it's a straight line from 20% to 100%.

Works fine. In idle / light usage it's super silent and under max load like BF3 it's hovering around 60% PWM @ 50c. (That's at 5.1Ghz 1.400v). When I ramp up my OC all the way to the max of 5.3Ghz @ 1.472v it hits 60-62c in BF3 and about 80c in prime95 / LinX.

Temps could go lower but my pull fans are completely different ones running much lower RPM's so they work against eachother.. I'm ordering new ones this afternoon (6 Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XLP PWM fans - 1000-2000RPM - PWM - transparant blue tinted blades - look super)


----------



## gdubc

If you are running at full speed it should be fine off a cha_fan header, but do be aware that it would be on a voltage controlled non pwm header. The *only* pwm header on Asus boards is the cpu/cpu_opt.


----------



## Imprezzion

Even when cha_fan1 is a 4 pin ''PWM'' header?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you are running at full speed it should be fine off a cha_fan header, but do be aware that it would be on a voltage controlled non pwm header. The *only* pwm header on Asus boards is the cpu/cpu_opt.


No.... Chassis fan headers are also pwm controlled depending on what's connected. If you have one pwm and one voltage control, they are pwm controlled. If you have 2 voltage controlled connected to two pwm chassis headers, they are voltage controlled. If you have 2 pwm fans connected to 2 pwm headers on chassis fans they are pwm controlled.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I did test this kit in the 540 and it is a very tight fit. I was able to fit it in the front though. There's no way it will fit in the top.


So the H320 Rad fits perfectly in the front of the Corsair 540 without any drilled holes? I know a lot of Radiators can fit in most cases that support it, but sometimes the holes don't line up with the Radiator holes even though it fit.


----------



## gdubc

Not according to Raja at Asus. I have a z77deluxe that is supposed to be all pwm headers as well as a max v formula which has, according to the manual, cha_1,2,3 voltage controlled and cpu, cpu_opt, and opt_1,2,3 pwm controlled. However, others have found that only cpu/cpu_opt are pwm and I pmd Raja, the Asus rep for North America and he confirmed *all* Asus motherboards use voltage control for *all* headers other than cpu/cpu_opt. Very disappointing, I know. I was pissed to say the least to be told by Asus themselves that the manuals are wrong.

If you have other information though I am always up to hear more, as it just doesn't make sense that they market them as having pwm and it just doesn't seem right that they don't.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not according to Raja at Asus. I have a z77deluxe that is supposed to be all pwm headers as well as a max v formula which has, according to the manual, cha_1,2,3 voltage controlled and cpu, cpu_opt, and opt_1,2,3 pwm controlled. However, others have found that only cpu/cpu_opt are pwm and I pmd Raja, the Asus rep for North America and he confirmed *all* Asus motherboards use voltage control for *all* headers other than cpu/cpu_opt. Very disappointing, I know. I was pissed to say the least to be told by Asus themselves that the manuals are wrong.
> 
> If you have other information though I am always up to hear more, as it just doesn't make sense that they market them as having pwm and it just doesn't seem right that they don't.


Im pretty sure that guy at Asus that you talked to is wrong. They can't just say the wrong information in every manual for every Asus boards. That is like the biggest marketing false information.

If you can ask JJ from Asus, then he might tell you the truth.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not according to Raja at Asus. I have a z77deluxe that is supposed to be all pwm headers as well as a max v formula which has, according to the manual, cha_1,2,3 voltage controlled and cpu, cpu_opt, and opt_1,2,3 pwm controlled. However, others have found that only cpu/cpu_opt are pwm and I pmd Raja, the Asus rep for North America and he confirmed *all* Asus motherboards use voltage control for *all* headers other than cpu/cpu_opt. Very disappointing, I know. I was pissed to say the least to be told by Asus themselves that the manuals are wrong.
> 
> If you have other information though I am always up to hear more, as it just doesn't make sense that they market them as having pwm and it just doesn't seem right that they don't.


If that information is correct I am pissed too. From the manual of the RIVE looks like not only cpu and cpu_opt but several other headers have the pwm signal....KInd of make sense since the own asus fanxpert does not allow control of all the headers in the RIVE, only 2 (since cpu_opt just follows the cpu header).


----------



## bond32

That information is not correct. Maybe for some other asus boards, but on my crosshair V formula Z it isnt correct. All fan headers have the capability of being pwm controlled, even the "optional". With that said, if you have a voltage controlled fan connected to a chassis fan header, as well as a PWM fan connected to the chassis fan header, both fans will be PWM controlled. You can't control the voltage fan via pwm, so it controls it by voltage. I have tested this.


----------



## ez12a

In my own testing, I can confirm that the 4 pin header that is between the IO ports and the PCIE slots is NOT PWM controlled despite it being a 4 pin.

You guys should try it for yourself. Connect the PWM splitter to that header and see if the PWM fans connected to the splitter change speed.

In my testing, PWM fans connected to the PWM splitter that is connected to the 4 pin in that area do not respond to speed changes. But if I plug in a 3 pin fan on that header, it changes speed. I would not be surprised if other Asus boards are the same way. You cant necessarily go by the physical appearance. There is also no setting in the BIOS for that particular header to switch between PWM and Voltage. You can only designate a desired fan speed IIRC.

You wont be able to tell that a PWM fan on a "4 pin" voltage enabled header is controlled via PWM because, well you're still modulating the actual power going to it. One cannot simply make a determination by plugging in a Voltage fan and a PWM fan directly to the 4 pin header to determine its modes of operation. Both types of fans will appear to respond to Voltage. Use the splitter to determine that, since it relies on only the PWM signal to change speeds.

that being said, use the splitter and the pump together at least to avoid issues. If your pump shuts down during idle, chances are you have it plugged into a voltage header. It should be always on.

For those that want to know how to adjust speeds, this is one way:


----------



## elricm

At least for my P8Z77 board, there is actually an errata on the ASUS web site, that points out that the 4-pin fan headers are not true PWM, they are a hybrid to support both 3 and 4 pin fans. The errata specifies only the cpu-fan headers are "true" PWM. This is official documentation. As was mentioned above, the splitter definitely highlights this.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> In my own testing, I can confirm that the 4 pin header that is between the IO ports and the PCIE slots is NOT PWM controlled despite it being a 4 pin.
> 
> You guys should try it for yourself. Connect the PWM splitter to that header and see if the PWM fans connected to the splitter change speed.
> 
> In my testing, PWM fans connected to the PWM splitter that is connected to the 4 pin in that area do not respond to speed changes. But if I plug in a 3 pin fan on that header, it changes speed. I would not be surprised if other Asus boards are the same way. You cant necessarily go by the physical appearance. There is also no setting in the BIOS for that particular header to switch between PWM and Voltage. You can only designate a desired fan speed IIRC.
> 
> You wont be able to tell that a PWM fan on a "4 pin" voltage enabled header is controlled via PWM because, well you're still modulating the actual power going to it. One cannot simply make a determination by plugging in a Voltage fan and a PWM fan directly to the 4 pin header to determine its modes of operation. Both types of fans will appear to respond to Voltage. Use the splitter to determine that, since it relies on only the PWM signal to change speeds.
> 
> that being said, use the splitter and the pump together at least to avoid issues.
> 
> For those that want to know how to adjust speeds, this is one way:


It is only PWM controlled if you have a temp probe connected to the corresponding header. Then in the bios you can select the temp range for it to control.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That information is not correct. Maybe for some other asus boards, but on my crosshair V formula Z it isnt correct. All fan headers have the capability of being pwm controlled, even the "optional". With that said, if you have a voltage controlled fan connected to a chassis fan header, as well as a PWM fan connected to the chassis fan header, both fans will be PWM controlled. You can't control the voltage fan via pwm, so it controls it by voltage. I have tested this.


A voltage fan cannot be controlled by pwm, even if it's hooked up with another fan that is pwm as you mention above. A non-pwm fan will always run 100% if there's an attempt to modulate it with pwm, since pwm devices always receive 12v. But a pwm device will still slow down with a voltage drop, but usually much more drastically and it will damage the unit in an unknown amount of time.


----------



## passinos

Sorry if this has been talked about earlier in the Thread.

3770k OC to 4.4, 2x 7970 CF T 1100Mhz in a Fractal R4

trying to decide between H220 | H20-x20 | MCR-x20
In any of the choices I will add a 280.2 or 240.2 radiator to add cooling capacity

Looking for simple...coming from H100 on CPU and a fried 7970 from a Dwood bracket.

Will H220 drive all 3 blocks? (cpu and 2x full 7970 plates)

Thanks all.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It is only PWM controlled if you have a temp probe connected to the corresponding header. Then in the bios you can select the temp range for it to control.



at least according to the manual for my p8z68, the 4 pin header pinout that doesnt work is supplied a 5+v on the 4th pin.

Unlike the CPU and CPU OPT pinout that has a "CPU FAN PWM" on the 4th pin.

Take it for what you will. My point still stands, any fan will respond to a 4 pin voltage controlled header. The only way that different modes can be determined is by using the PWM splitter.

edit: for bond's particular mobo, it does have PWM capability according to the pinout. My mistake. My motherboard is low end


----------



## bond32

That is correct. 

Here you go. Chassis fan 3 has 3 corsaid sp120's all voltage controlled, Chassis fan 1 has one swiftech helix fan connected. This shows that the board still knows the difference between the two and controls them accordingly, unless of course the swiftech is simply being voltage controlled as well.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> 
> at least according to the manual for my p8z68, the 4 pin header pinout that doesnt work is supplied a 5+v on the 4th pin.
> 
> Unlike the CPU and CPU OPT pinout that has a "CPU FAN PWM" on the 4th pin.
> 
> Take it for what you will. My point still stands, any fan will respond to a 4 pin voltage controlled header. The only way that different modes can be determined is by using the PWM splitter.


Mine is different.



Where your board supplies +5 volts, mine is all pwm controlled. So not all Asus boards with PWM headers are the same.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Sorry if this has been talked about earlier in the Thread.
> 
> 3770k OC to 4.4, 2x 7970 CF T 1100Mhz in a Fractal R4
> 
> trying to decide between H220 | H20-x20 | MCR-x20
> In any of the choices I will add a 280.2 or 240.2 radiator to add cooling capacity
> 
> Looking for simple...coming from H100 on CPU and a fried 7970 from a Dwood bracket.
> 
> Will H220 drive all 3 blocks? (cpu and 2x full 7970 plates)
> 
> Thanks all.


It'll handle 3 blacks and 3 rads with ease as long as you setup your GPUs to be cooled in parallel instead rather than serial.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That is correct.
> 
> Here you go. Chassis fan 3 has 3 corsaid sp120's all voltage controlled, Chassis fan 1 has one swiftech helix fan connected. This shows that the board still knows the difference between the two and controls them accordingly, unless of course the swiftech is simply being voltage controlled as well.


And what happens if you adjust the chassis header that has pwm fan connected to it to 0% control using Speedfan ? If the fan stops then it is actually running voltage controlled since pwm fan running on pwm control don't stop at 0% duty cycle


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> And what happens if you adjust the chassis header that has pwm fan connected to it to 0% control using Speedfan ? If the fan stops then it is actually running voltage controlled since pwm fan running on pwm control don't stop at 0% duty cycle


Just tested, all fans stop at 0% however when disconnecting the voltage controlled fans, it still stops at 0%. So at least for the helix fans, 0% pwm means 0 RPM.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just tested, all fans stop at 0% however when disconnecting the voltage controlled fans, it still stops at 0%. So at least for the helix fans, 0% pwm means 0 RPM.


that cant be right. 0 on speedfan for the PWM splitter puts the fans at approx 850-950. pump on the same control is at 1190-1200.

swiftech helix fan pwm min speed is 800 +/- 25%. http://www.swiftech.com/helix120mm-pwm.aspx

my connections are as follows:
CPU OPT= Helix fan
CPU = Splitter with second helix and pump (occupying pos 1)

so the OPT header is reading the helix speed, which when at 0 in speedfan is aprox 800 rpm.


----------



## Ragsters

I should be getting the H320 by the end of this month. All I want to do is control all my fans with my fan controller and my pump with my motherboard. Can I just attach the pump header ro my CPU motherboard fan header and call it good or do I have to use the Swiftech supplied switch?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> that cant be right. 0 on speedfan for the PWM splitter puts the fans at approx 850-950. pump on the same control is at 1190-1200.
> 
> swiftech helix fan pwm min speed is 800 +/- 25%. http://www.swiftech.com/helix120mm-pwm.aspx


May need to restart then for the board to know the difference between voltage and pwm fans.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just tested, all fans stop at 0% however when disconnecting the voltage controlled fans, it still stops at 0%. So at least for the helix fans, 0% pwm means 0 RPM.


Which means that those chassis fan headers are not pwm controlled


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Which means that those chassis fan headers are not pwm controlled


See above. Posted a shot of the manual. They are pwm controlled unless there is a voltage controlled fan connected.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> May need to restart then for the board to know the difference between voltage and pwm fans.


but that still shows that the board is incapable of determining what kind of fan is plugged in where if it defaults all to voltage if it detects one voltage fan.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> See above. Posted a shot of the manual. They are pwm controlled unless there is a voltage controlled fan connected.


I know that manual says they are pwm controlled but the manual is wrong, I've seen this same thing on several Asus boards


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Every CHA_FAN header on my Sabertooth Z77 says they have a pin for PWM control. I have two silverstone FHP-141 connected, an sp120 and af140, All of them are controlled via fan curves in AI suite II. They all respond to the curves set for them. The ASST_FAN headers are the only ones with no PWM pin.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> Every CHA_FAN header on my Sabertooth Z77 says they have a pin for PWM control. I have two silverstone FHP-141 connected, an sp120 and af140, All of them are controlled via fan curves in AI suite II. They all respond to the curves set for them. The ASST_FAN headers are the only ones with no PWM pin.


you're kind of missing the point. There's no way to truly determine PWM/Voltage capability when plugging in any kind of fan. Any fan will appear to respond to voltage control regardless whether it's a 3 pin or 4 pin fan. You need to use the splitter to make that determination.

controlling pwm fans may work fine via voltage. The concern comes up with using Voltage control on the h220 pump. I recommend anyone with the h220 or h320 to use the splitter with the pump at the very least.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I know that manual says they are pwm controlled but the manual is wrong, I've seen this same thing on several Asus boards


LOL....

Seriously? Because ez12a posted his manual, which clearly shows the chassis fans are NOT pwm controlled.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> LOL....
> 
> Seriously? Because ez12a posted his manual, which clearly shows the chassis fans are NOT pwm controlled.


Personally I have used Rampage III Gene and Maximus V Formula that both should have had pwm controlled opt fan headers according to their manuals but in real life both really had voltage controlled opt fan headers. I have also seen several cases like this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem/0_20


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Personally I have used Rampage III Gene and Maximus V Formula that both should have had pwm controlled opt fan headers according to their manuals but in real life both really had voltage controlled opt fan headers. I have also seen several cases like this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem/0_20


The Opt fan headers are different. Like I said earlier, the only way they are PWM controlled is if you have a thermocouple attached to the corresponding fan header. Otherwise there is no way to control the "OPT FAN" headers outside of the bios.


----------



## EarlZ

Finally installed the H220 but it took me a while to do so on my case, first I thought it was easy to install it by just putting the case on its side and trying to position everything... it was a nightmare trying to do that but little did I know that it was impossible to install it that way because something was blocking a part of the radiator that I was not aware (1hr) so I decided to take things apart and removed my mobo out of its case, took me about close 45mins to just align the fan screws to the fan then to the radiator







followed by putting the mobo back again and then I saw it.. the 'screw plate' on the other side is actually like 1.5mm away from the 8pin eps power making it impossible to connect the 8pin back, took out some nail clippers and clipped the locks on the 8pin EPS and clearance is just enough and it also took me a while to decide how I should position my pump, tubes and installing the back plate was quite troublesome compared to the backplate on the D14.

All in all, it was a fun, I am not sure if a leak test is necessary for this but my GPU's are not yet installed. Will add pictures in a bit


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The Opt fan headers are different. Like I said earlier, the only way they are PWM controlled is if you have a thermocouple attached to the corresponding fan header. Otherwise there is no way to control the "OPT FAN" headers outside of the bios.


Did you read the thread I linked, that guys manual also listed chassis fan headers as pwm headers


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Did you read the thread I linked, that guys manual also listed chassis fan headers as pwm headers


Did you read any of my posts? Yes they are PWM controlled... If you have a temp probe connected. Otherwise yes they are voltage controlled. Not sure how much more clear I can make that.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Did you read any of my posts? Yes they are PWM controlled... If you have a temp probe connected. Otherwise yes they are voltage controlled. Not sure how much more clear I can make that.


I wasn't talking about those opt fan headers, Rampage IV Extreme's manual says that all chassis fan headers are PWM controlled but they are not. Your manual has the same error. You can go on and on but that Speedfan test already made it clear that your chassis fan headers are not PWM controlled. Connect that same fan to cpu fan header and adjust it to 0 % duty cycle and see if it still stops, that's a clear difference between voltage and pwm controlled fan headers.


----------



## EarlZ

This is whats on my manual.. so CPU_FAN and the CPU_OPT have a different control method ?


----------



## bond32

That looks like a gigabyte board manual, but in your case it looks like the CPU_OPT is the PWM controlled header where the CPU fan is just voltage even though it's a 4 pin.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> 
> 
> This is whats on my manual.. so CPU_FAN and the CPU_OPT have a different control method ?


Looks like it, if CPU_OPT header can control a 3-pin fan then it is a voltage controlled header like manual says.


----------



## EarlZ

Ok now Im confused.. which of the 2 ports should I plug in the pump? I dont wanna damage it in anyway possible.

Some random pictures


Had to clip off the locks on my 8pin EPS power cable for it to fit


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ok now Im confused.. which of the 2 ports should I plug in the pump? I dont wanna damage it in anyway possible.


If manual is correct only cpu fan header will be able to control the pump, other ones won't damage it, it will just run at full speed all the time


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ok now Im confused.. which of the 2 ports should I plug in the pump? I dont wanna damage it in anyway possible.
> 
> 
> 
> If manual is correct only cpu fan header will be able to control the pump, other ones won't damage it, it will just run at full speed all the time
Click to expand...

Even if I have selected 'silent' for all the other fan headers at the bios it would still run it at max?
Is there a way for me to verify if the manual is correct ?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Even if I have selected 'silent' for all the other fan headers at the bios it would still run it at max?
> Is there a way for me to verify if the manual is correct ?


Like I said pump won't be damaged even if connected to a non pwm header, just try it. If you don't use the splitter pump might not start when connected to a voltage controlled header.


----------



## gdubc

Sorry for causing four pages of conflicting posts, but I do trust Raja for he knows a lot of shiii about the products he represents. Even though my manual shows pin outs for PWM headers he assures me that even if I use the temperature probes they're still being controlled by voltage, no matter what, and on all Asus boards. If any of you think yours is using pwm signals i suggest you do like was suggested and hook up the splitter on that header and then hook up a pwm fan to the splitter and see if you can still change the speed. The fan will get the constant 12v from the splitter so if it changes you know it is using pwm as that is the only thing that could be changing it. And if the speed stays constant you will know that it is trying to use voltage control because of the constant 12v that it is being fed from the splitter which us bypassing the motherboard voltage pin. I haven't had time to do this test yet myself, but I would be interested to hear anyone else's findings if they try it, hint hint, bond32!!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I have the Z77 Sabertooth, only the CPU_Fan & CPU_Opt is PWM, CHA _Fan 1-4 is not.
In the manual it says all PWM, which is not true.
When I use the Swiftech splitter on the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT Speed fan will control it. CHA_FAN 1_4 the fans will spin at 100%, no control from Speedfan.
As I have it all set in the bios to disable, as conflicts will happen between bios and Speedfan.

Noctua NF-P12 PWM on CPU header. Speed Fan I can set CPU to 10% as that is the lowest before it turns off at 5%
CHA_FAN 1-4 with Noctua NF-A14 PWM, lowest I can set 35%, it turns off at 30%.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ok now Im confused.. which of the 2 ports should I plug in the pump? I dont wanna damage it in anyway possible.


The manual is not clear and says kindof conflicting things? This much looks clear
* CPU_FAN header is a pwm regulated header
* SYS_FAN 1 thru 3 are voltage regulated fan headers

But with CPU_OPT, who knows, the text makes it sound like it might be a pwm header (what does fan speed control design mean anyway), but the pin out diagram shows voltage regulation? Idk, a voltage meter might be able to clarify what the heck that one is doing? The technical writing leaves a little to be desired, geez... just say "pwm" or "voltage" regulated. Gigabyte specific forums might have some answers?

If you want to control the pump+fans via the mobo's pwm signal... i think you use CPU_FAN. Plug the splitter into that, and then your pump + fans into the splitter. Give the splitter power too of course with the molex connector.


----------



## Ragsters

Do I still need the splitter if all I want to control via PWM is the pump? Can I control the pump speed using the motherboard and its PWM header?


----------



## jincuteguy

So which board maker on the market right now actualy has all of the fan headers are PWM? MSI? Gigabyte? Asrock? or none of them? if none of these board makers make PWM headers, then there is an obvious reason for doing so.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Even if I have selected 'silent' for all the other fan headers at the bios it would still run it at max?
> Is there a way for me to verify if the manual is correct ?
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said pump won't be damaged even if connected to a non pwm header, just try it. If you don't use the splitter pump might not start when connected to a voltage controlled header.
Click to expand...

Well its been said that If I plug it into a voltage regulated instead of PWM pin it could damage the pump, though I will keep it always at max speed. Would it be also ok if I just plug it into a 3pin header (from a molex. 12V) ?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which board maker on the market right now actualy has all of the fan headers are PWM? MSI? Gigabyte? Asrock? or none of them? if none of these board makers make PWM headers, then there is an obvious reason for doing so.


My Asrock Z68 and Z77 boards both have pwm control on cpu and chassis fan 1 headers, Gigabyte Z77 boards use pwm on cpu and sys fan 2 & 3 headers but those sys fan headers can't be controlled separately. Haven't seen a board with only pwm headers yet.

edit. Actually Z77N-Wifi board in my Hackintosh build only has 2 headers and they might both be PWM controlled, haven't really tested them since that system has an Aquaero 5 LT controller


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Do I still need the splitter if all I want to control via PWM is the pump? Can I control the pump speed using the motherboard and its PWM header?


It's all-around safer to just use the splitter







. If the motherboard header is PWM, you can use it straight, but even thing like power outages can reset the BIOS and even one run of voltage modulation is a risk of damage to the pump, since it's unknown how little or how much voltage modulation it takes to kill a pump. If you use the splitter and the BIOS is reset, you'd just notice the pump is always running 3000 rpm, which won't damage anything.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well its been said that If I plug it into a voltage regulated instead of PWM pin it could damage the pump, though I will keep it always at max speed. Would it be also ok if I just plug it into a 3pin header (from a molex. 12V) ?


Using a molex header is fine, then pump will always just run at full speed. Is there some reason that you can not use the pwm splitter


----------



## Phelan

I appended the following to the OP-

Quote:


> NOTICE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you use the included PWM splitter to power your pump, by plugging the pump into channel one and hooking up both the molex/SATA plug and the PWM fan header, EVEN IF the only device you plan to modulate via PWM is the pump itself. More than just an accessory, the splitter is a fail-safe, guaranteeing that the pump always receives the necessary 12v, regardless of fan header settings, as anything less can and will, in an unknown amount of time, damage the pump. Furthermore, it is recommended that you do the same for any other PWM devices you plan to run as well, so that they too receive the necessary 12v constant straight from the PSU. If you cannot modulate the speed of the devices plugged in, in this fashion, then it's either a fan header, motherboard, or BIOS setting issue, or in rare case, the splitter itself.


----------



## Imprezzion

Well, I feel perfectly fine having it hooked up to my PWM controlled CHA_FAN1 header.

And yes, it IS PWM controlled I just tested it by hooking up the PWM board to it.

The BIOS allows for setting a min and max CPU temp and I can also set a min and max PWM % which regulates CHA_FAN headers in relation with CPU temps via PWM.

Now, CHA_FAN1's controls are set to ''Disabled'' in the BIOS a.k.a. always 100% cause the pump is so quiet I can't understand why people would want to run it on anything less...

My fans are hooked up to the splitter and run off of the CPU_FAN header which is set from temps min 40c to max 65c and with PWM width of 20% to 100%. Works very well.


----------



## jincuteguy

So did anyone else get a H320 on their hands? besides a couple people that already got theirs.


----------



## Nexo

I wonder if I can still get a H220 in the US.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well, I feel perfectly fine having it hooked up to my PWM controlled CHA_FAN1 header.
> 
> And yes, it IS PWM controlled I just tested it by hooking up the PWM board to it.
> 
> The BIOS allows for setting a min and max CPU temp and I can also set a min and max PWM % which regulates CHA_FAN headers in relation with CPU temps via PWM.
> 
> Now, CHA_FAN1's controls are set to ''Disabled'' in the BIOS a.k.a. always 100% cause the pump is so quiet I can't understand why people would want to run it on anything less...
> 
> My fans are hooked up to the splitter and run off of the CPU_FAN header which is set from temps min 40c to max 65c and with PWM width of 20% to 100%. Works very well.


the only reason IMO not to run it 100% is if the loop is small and yoiu don't want to top it off every so often. Eventually a tad bit of fluid will evaporate, leaving air in the loop, and the impeller on the pump is strong enough that it can ( and likely will) eventually pull some of this air into the pump, creating extra noise. With a lower pump speed, this is less likely to happen, and cooling performance in generally barely affected at all with the lower pump speeds.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well, I feel perfectly fine having it hooked up to my PWM controlled CHA_FAN1 header.
> 
> And yes, it IS PWM controlled I just tested it by hooking up the PWM board to it.
> 
> The BIOS allows for setting a min and max CPU temp and I can also set a min and max PWM % which regulates CHA_FAN headers in relation with CPU temps via PWM.
> 
> Now, CHA_FAN1's controls are set to ''Disabled'' in the BIOS a.k.a. always 100% cause the pump is so quiet I can't understand why people would want to run it on anything less...
> 
> My fans are hooked up to the splitter and run off of the CPU_FAN header which is set from temps min 40c to max 65c and with PWM width of 20% to 100%. Works very well.


That's funny if it's true since manual clearly says that chassis fan 1 header of your board is not PWM controlled :


If you set that headers control to disabled then it will run pump at full speed


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Do I still need the splitter if all I want to control via PWM is the pump? Can I control the pump speed using the motherboard and its PWM header?


You wouldn't have to use the splitter if you know its pwm, but as mentioned earlier, some bios may possibly reset the cpu header to voltage instead of pwm on instance of a power outage or something of that nature.

Raja also mentioned Asus boards only use pwm for cpu and cpu_opt and cannot use voltage control on these headers. I know that when I connect 3 pin fans to the cpu or cpu_opt on both of my boards the fans will only run at full speed.

I would think using the splitter would still be best for most people just for the assurance that the pump is getting full power.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well, I feel perfectly fine having it hooked up to my PWM controlled CHA_FAN1 header.
> 
> And yes, it IS PWM controlled I just tested it by hooking up the PWM board to it.
> 
> The BIOS allows for setting a min and max CPU temp and I can also set a min and max PWM % which regulates CHA_FAN headers in relation with CPU temps via PWM.
> 
> Now, CHA_FAN1's controls are set to ''Disabled'' in the BIOS a.k.a. always 100% cause the pump is so quiet I can't understand why people would want to run it on anything less...
> 
> My fans are hooked up to the splitter and run off of the CPU_FAN header which is set from temps min 40c to max 65c and with PWM width of 20% to 100%. Works very well.


CHA_Fan1 is not PWM. It might look like it, but it control is still voltage. As the lowest is set to 5v.
test with just one fan only. But do not use Asus fan control, as it uses voltage to control it.
Use SpeedFan and adjust speed until it turns off. if it does at 30-40%, then it is not PWM.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please check how you're powering the pump and fans. If they are being powered from a voltage regulated header you're going to get noise and eventually damage these PWM devices. Please try using the PWM splitter to see if this resolves your issue. If you're already using the splitter then please let me know.


HI BramSLI1,

I have sent you a PM. THe fans and pump were being run via the PWM splitter. Pump noise is settling down, so hopefully trapped air. Will go through the steps on page one to make sure. Otherwise fantastic temps, better than my $800 custom loop on my system


----------



## Nilsom

hello everyone

a week that my cooler walks make this noise,

Anyone know what can be

help please


----------



## CoolProject

Swiftech H320 will adapt in a case cooler master haf x 942?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> Swiftech H320 will adapt in a case cooler master haf x 942?


I think your asking if it fits in a 942? It will fit in my haf932 by using the screw holes above the drive bays, the fan doesn't have much breathing room but it fits from what I understand.


----------



## selk22

Any suggestions for a while tubing that will fit the barbs on the h220 pump? I see that Swiftech has one in the works but it says ETA to be announced. In the meantime any suggestions?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Finally installed the H220 but it took me a while to do so on my case, first I thought it was easy to install it by just putting the case on its side and trying to position everything... it was a nightmare trying to do that but little did I know that it was impossible to install it that way because something was blocking a part of the radiator that I was not aware (1hr) so I decided to take things apart and removed my mobo out of its case, took me about close 45mins to just align the fan screws to the fan then to the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> followed by putting the mobo back again and then I saw it.. the 'screw plate' on the other side is actually like 1.5mm away from the 8pin eps power making it impossible to connect the 8pin back, took out some nail clippers and clipped the locks on the 8pin EPS and clearance is just enough and it also took me a while to decide how I should position my pump, tubes and installing the back plate was quite troublesome compared to the backplate on the D14.
> 
> All in all, it was a fun, I am not sure if a leak test is necessary for this but my GPU's are not yet installed. Will add pictures in a bit


just be careful if your eps vibrates out you could have a loose connection which causes over amping, and heat which can easily damage your mobo and other components.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ok now Im confused.. which of the 2 ports should I plug in the pump? I dont wanna damage it in anyway possible.
> 
> Some random pictures
> 
> 
> Had to clip off the locks on my 8pin EPS power cable for it to fit


CPU fan header or use the splitter and any header
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> *Like I said pump won't be damaged even if connected to a non pwm header,* just try it. If you don't use the splitter pump might not start when connected to a voltage controlled header.


100% not correct. it WILL damage the pumps circuitry it is a matter of how long .. some can be immediate some takes time how much is the factor as bram has said IT IS BAD to run these on less then 12v !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The manual is not clear and says kindof conflicting things? This much looks clear
> * CPU_FAN header is a pwm regulated header
> * SYS_FAN 1 thru 3 are voltage regulated fan headers
> 
> But with CPU_OPT, who knows, the text makes it sound like it might be a pwm header (what does fan speed control design mean anyway), but the pin out diagram shows voltage regulation? Idk, a voltage meter might be able to clarify what the heck that one is doing? The technical writing leaves a little to be desired, geez... just say "pwm" or "voltage" regulated. Gigabyte specific forums might have some answers?
> 
> If you want to control the pump+fans via the mobo's pwm signal... i think you use CPU_FAN. Plug the splitter into that, and then your pump + fans into the splitter. Give the splitter power too of course with the molex connector.


pwm using mvdc iirc that is all pwm is ( 1-10 but i could be wrong ) to tell it how fast to run that is all pwm is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well its been said that If I plug it into a voltage regulated instead of PWM pin it could *will*damage the pump, though I will keep it always at max speed. Would it be also ok if I just plug it into a 3pin header (from a molex. 12V) ?


fixed it for you. yes your fine if you do that. it just sends a full 12v to the pump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Any suggestions for a while tubing that will fit the barbs on the h220 pump? I see that Swiftech has one in the works but it says ETA to be announced. In the meantime any suggestions?


any tubing with the same size id (3/8 iirc )


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> any tubing with the same size id (3/8 iirc )


Cool I am assuming you mean 3/8 x 1/2 like this tubing here?
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=13


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Cool I am assuming you mean 3/8 x 1/2 like this tubing here?
> http://www.primochill.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=13


You need 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD to fit the existing clamps. If you replace those clamps, you can use any size OD as long as it is 3/8" ID.


----------



## Mega Man

with barbs OD ( the larger number ) does not matter. the smaller number is what matters. i would wait for a confirmation about the size but i am 90% sure it is 3/8

the advantage to thicker tubing is it takes longer for the water to evaporate from the system ( plastic breathes which allows water to evaporate over time )
the only time you have to worry about od is when you get barbs or possibly clamps

( btw id = inner diameter and od = outer diameter just in case )


----------



## selk22

Thanks for the help guys







After a bit more research I also saw that Bryan Ramirez at Swiftech on a Youtube comment said
Quote:


> It's 5/8 OD by 3/8 ID tubing. OD is outer diameter and ID is internal diameter in inches.﻿


So confirmed from him.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well its been said that If I plug it into a voltage regulated instead of PWM pin it could damage the pump, though I will keep it always at max speed. Would it be also ok if I just plug it into a 3pin header (from a molex. 12V) ?
> 
> 
> 
> Using a molex header is fine, then pump will always just run at full speed. Is there some reason that you can not use the pwm splitter
Click to expand...

Im using a pair of GT-AP15 fans since the stock fan I got with my kit is a dud makes a very audible noise, so theres really nothing much for me to connect to the PWM splitter.


----------



## gdubc

^^You won't have anything else to plug in but at least you'll know that the pump is always being supplied the 12 Volts it needs


----------



## B3L13V3R

Just an update on my temps with the full loop with two 670 4GB... looking better every day.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> ^^You won't have anything else to plug in but at least you'll know that the pump is always being supplied the 12 Volts it needs


When I have time to wire manage my system I will probably connect the fans there, I am using the helix fans as intake as noise it makes its far less audible there compared to it on the radiator. I wonder if Swiftech can replace this with out me sending the fan back as I am not from US/Canada.


----------



## bond32

I will likely be selling my h220 kit, thought I would mention it here since some of you have had issues finding one. I'd post in the marketplace but I am not sure if I have the rep for it.

Upgrading to bigger stuff.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What can be bigger to what you have right now?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I will likely be selling my h220 kit, thought I would mention it here since some of you have had issues finding one. I'd post in the marketplace but I am not sure if I have the rep for it.
> 
> Upgrading to bigger stuff.


My h100i just went out, curious what you'd want for it?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What can be bigger to what you have right now?


Stuff with fittings instead of barbs. That's the only reason I moved to an APD2, that and the light-up logo matches my Komodo blocks...


----------



## bond32

No idea on a price yet. It does have scratches but nothing major. Since I cut up the original tubing long ago I will include a 5 ft section I bought (black) that is identical.

I will be running 2 7950's in the loop with heatkiller blocks and have one 320 rad. I wanted for some time now a better 240 rad and a better cpu block but never had the money till now. I will be getting the XSPC raystorm RX240 kit with a D5 pump.


----------



## sWaY20

Hit me up when your ready to sell, I think I might just have to jump on it.


----------



## gdubc

After looking at your mb manual more, EarlZ, it looks like your cpu header is only a pwm header. The cpu_opt on the otherhand looks like it can be either pwm or voltage controlled. There is probably a bios setting that allows you to switch this depending on what type of device you have plugged in there.

I think that the other headers with the vcc pin are voltage controlled. Usually the cc in Vcc would just designate that the voltage on that pin is for something specific. What the cc stands for I am not sure, but I have seen ones like Vusb meaning the pin was for usb power at 5v. My manual lists non pwm header pins as a +12v pin, a ground pin, a speed sense pin, and a +5v pin. I think it is the same with yours as the Vcc would be the same as my +5v pin and therefore voltage controlled.

I also just noticed the part that says the speed control function requires the use of a fan that allows speed control(meaning pwm),and the only header with speed control separate from the +12v pin is the cpu header.

So anyway.....I would say you should be safe running the pump off the cpu header and your other fans will ramp up when needed based off the cpu temp.


----------



## circeseye

arghghhhgh. ok my h220 is doing something weird. its been running flawlessly for oh 5 months now. never at 100% usually around 25% 24 hours a day. today it started stopping. i was watching it in speed fan even and it would be running fine and boop 0% for only a sec or 2. and go back to normal. and its not constant eather. its random. only reason i noticed was asus throws up a warning when it does it. cpu was overclocked to 4.4 so i put it to normal just in case no difference. is the controller bad on the pump?? what u guys think


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> arghghhhgh. ok my h220 is doing something weird. its been running flawlessly for oh 5 months now. never at 100% usually around 25% 24 hours a day. today it started stopping. i was watching it in speed fan even and it would be running fine and boop 0% for only a sec or 2. and go back to normal. and its not constant eather. its random. only reason i noticed was asus throws up a warning when it does it. cpu was overclocked to 4.4 so i put it to normal just in case no difference. is the controller bad on the pump?? what u guys think


Did you try to listen to the pump and check if its actually stopping ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Stuff with fittings instead of barbs. That's the only reason I moved to an APD2, that and the light-up logo matches my Komodo blocks...


But barbs are also fittings.


----------



## Mega Man

i dont care what kind of expandable loop you have i have to say i highly highly recommend these. i dont think i will do another build without them


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> arghghhhgh. ok my h220 is doing something weird. its been running flawlessly for oh 5 months now. never at 100% usually around 25% 24 hours a day. today it started stopping. i was watching it in speed fan even and it would be running fine and boop 0% for only a sec or 2. and go back to normal. and its not constant eather. its random. only reason i noticed was asus throws up a warning when it does it. cpu was overclocked to 4.4 so i put it to normal just in case no difference. is the controller bad on the pump?? what u guys think


did your temp spike? Asus software love to give stupid warning (something like your mb reach -273 degrees while I was just on air). The best way to check if the pump is really stooping is just check your temps if they spike or not


----------



## EarlZ

PWM spitter now connected to the CPU_FAN header, bios is set to "Full speed", pump is connected to CH1 along with the 2 helix fans which what I am using for intake..


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> CHA_Fan1 is not PWM. It might look like it, but it control is still voltage. As the lowest is set to 5v.
> test with just one fan only. But do not use Asus fan control, as it uses voltage to control it.
> Use SpeedFan and adjust speed until it turns off. if it does at 30-40%, then it is not PWM.


So, you guys are tellin' me it's controlling the PWM board with voltage so it looks like PWM but it isn't?

LOL ASUS. But ehm, I have to give you credit as with Speedfan the fans turn off @ 33% or less and they refuse to start under 40% so it's voltage









Well, when I get my nosieblockers in (Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XLP PWM) I have to redo the entire splitter anyways and i'll just hook the pump up to it as well so it will at least idle @ low RPM. (How low can the pump go in PWM %? I run the fans, and thus the splitter as well, @ 20% idle so..)


----------



## EarlZ

So I did my usual encoding test and I got about 2-3c lower temps than compared to the X60, this is with the AC off so I would guess when it is on its an additional 1-2c lesser temps when the AC is running. Over all it does not "destroy" the X60 (1100RPM mode) in anyway in terms of performance but it frees up my optical bay slot to be used for a harddrive holder which is a win-win for me!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *circeseye*
> 
> arghghhhgh. ok my h220 is doing something weird. its been running flawlessly for oh 5 months now. never at 100% usually around 25% 24 hours a day. today it started stopping. i was watching it in speed fan even and it would be running fine and boop 0% for only a sec or 2. and go back to normal. and its not constant eather. its random. only reason i noticed was asus throws up a warning when it does it. cpu was overclocked to 4.4 so i put it to normal just in case no difference. is the controller bad on the pump?? what u guys think


Is yours one of the early units? If so, it could be the same problem I had the other day. Mine is a 0 day unit (early review unit), and as I was reassembling it to ship it out, I had a similar problem, where the pump would run intermittently, stop go stop go stop go,etc. I contacted Bryan and he was quite positive it's the impeller that's going out, and they have a new, more reliable revision impeller now. Since they are backed up and I know how to disassemble the unit, Bryan is sending me a new impeller. That may be an option for you if have faith in your skills. It's pretty easy. Otherwise you can just as well RMA the unit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> So, you guys are tellin' me it's controlling the PWM board with voltage so it looks like PWM but it isn't?
> 
> LOL ASUS. But ehm, I have to give you credit as with Speedfan the fans turn off @ 33% or less and they refuse to start under 40% so it's voltage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, when I get my nosieblockers in (Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XLP PWM) I have to redo the entire splitter anyways and i'll just hook the pump up to it as well so it will at least idle @ low RPM. (How low can the pump go in PWM %? I run the fans, and thus the splitter as well, @ 20% idle so..)


If you above that post I tested on my Z77 Sabertooth, which in the manual shows all PWM.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-owners-club/6000_50#post_20636764

I even tried Asus own software, which only reports socket temps, not core temps, so speed do not get adjusted correctly.
The cpu headers can go to 20%, while the CHA lowest is 40%. So even Asus own software failed to adjust correctly. Around 40% is about 5v.


----------



## EarlZ

Added an hdd to my optical bay so I can add one more at the bottom cages.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

If you have an SSD, just mount that anywhere and the HDD you have in the ODD bay in the bottom cage.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you have an SSD, just mount that anywhere and the HDD you have in the ODD bay in the bottom cage.


I have 1 SSD which is on its own cage and 2 harddrives, I have a 3rd harddrive incoming tomorrow.


----------



## michael-ocn

So a difference of 3 or 4 degrees cooler with the h220? That's a nice difference, a bit more oc headroom







How do they compare on noise levels?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So I did my usual encoding test and I got about 2-3c lower temps than compared to the X60, this is with the AC off so I would guess when it is on its an additional 1-2c lesser temps when the AC is running. Over all it does not "destroy" the X60 (1100RPM mode) in anyway in terms of performance but it frees up my optical bay slot to be used for a harddrive holder which is a win-win for me!


----------



## UnknownVX

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if my H220 temperatures were on the mark? I've had mine for about two months so far, and I'm quite happy with it, but looking around it does seem like my temps are a bit higher than they should be. I've also had some clicking issues in the past, although just tilting the case around fixed them, but they came back recently and it's a bit more audible now. Air bubbles can decrease performance, right?

Anyways, I'm OCed to 5 ghz on a 2500k, (technically 4.988 mhz as the host frequency stops at 99.xx for some reason) at 1.39 volts. Idle temps at 25-26 ambient at the hottest core = 35 celcius. Load temps at hottest core under prime95 blend = 75 (After 1 hour) Load temps in intel burn test at hottest core after 10 mins (at highest program setting) 84 (I stopped it here since that's hotter than I care for).

Is this about right? Again, I feel like it's pretty good to handle a 5 Ghz oc, but if I can improve performance, perhaps by changing fans, trying the thorough bleeding technique to get rid of all air bubbles, or even changing thermal paste.. well, if I can squeeze more performance out of this, why not try?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I have 1 SSD which is on its own cage and 2 harddrives, I have a 3rd harddrive incoming tomorrow.


Forgot the 350D only has 2 HDD spots.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> So a difference of 3 or 4 degrees cooler with the h220? That's a nice difference, a bit more oc headroom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do they compare on noise levels?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So I did my usual encoding test and I got about 2-3c lower temps than compared to the X60, this is with the AC off so I would guess when it is on its an additional 1-2c lesser temps when the AC is running. Over all it does not "destroy" the X60 (1100RPM mode) in anyway in terms of performance but it frees up my optical bay slot to be used for a harddrive holder which is a win-win for me!
Click to expand...

To add, I am not sure if this will affect temps but I used CLP on the X60 and I only used the stock thermal paste that came with the H220. Noise level is slightly lower mainly because its the GT-AP15's now and I like how they sound compared to the stock NZXT fans. I just dont have a method to control the GT-AP15 fans based on the CPU temps yet.. I might grab a 3 pin extension from bitfenix so I can connect it to the other headers that are voltage based. Hopefully all of my headers are linked to the CPU temp.


----------



## michael-ocn

I've got an older asus board with with a pwm cpu header and voltage regulated chassis fan headers. The chassis fans can be controlled based on cpu temp, but the shape of the curve is very different...




Your board is completely different and that CPUFANOPT header might provide a voltage regulated curve that looks more like the CPUFAN header's pwm regulated curve?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> To add, I am not sure if this will affect temps but I used CLP on the X60 and I only used the stock thermal paste that came with the H220. Noise level is slightly lower mainly because its the GT-AP15's now and I like how they sound compared to the stock NZXT fans. I just dont have a method to control the GT-AP15 fans based on the CPU temps yet.. I might grab a 3 pin extension from bitfenix so I can connect it to the other headers that are voltage based. Hopefully all of my headers are linked to the CPU temp.


----------



## EarlZ

I dont know what the fan curves are on my board, I am not aware if gigabyte has a software controller for the headers. I'll take a photo of the bios options in a bit.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So I did my usual encoding test and I got about 2-3c lower temps than compared to the X60, this is with the AC off so I would guess when it is on its an additional 1-2c lesser temps when the AC is running. Over all it does not "destroy" the X60 (1100RPM mode) in anyway in terms of performance but it frees up my optical bay slot to be used for a harddrive holder which is a win-win for me!


nice. the fact that it can compete and (marginally) beat a 280mm cooler is good enough for me. X60 and its h110 brother are overrated.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So I did my usual encoding test and I got about 2-3c lower temps than compared to the X60, this is with the AC off so I would guess when it is on its an additional 1-2c lesser temps when the AC is running. Over all it does not "destroy" the X60 (1100RPM mode) in anyway in terms of performance but it frees up my optical bay slot to be used for a harddrive holder which is a win-win for me!
> 
> 
> 
> nice. the fact that it can compete and (marginally) beat a 280mm cooler is good enough for me. X60 and its h110 brother are overrated.
Click to expand...

Yeah, very pleased with the H220 so far. I just need a way to run my GT-AP15's slower when things are not loaded.


----------



## EarlZ

Well easy tune fails to load :/


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well easy tune fails to load :/


try speedfan. I have a config video on my youtube channel with some pointers on how to get it working. Make sure to uninstall any other speed control utility.

I have 2 GTs on my h220 that are connected to my voltage controlled 3 pin headers that work superbly. I have the gts running at about 1200 rpm at idle which provides just enough air flow to keep things cool under a gaming load as well.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> To add, I am not sure if this will affect temps but I used CLP on the X60 and I only used the stock thermal paste that came with the H220. Noise level is slightly lower mainly because its the GT-AP15's now and I like how they sound compared to the stock NZXT fans. I just dont have a method to control the GT-AP15 fans based on the CPU temps yet.. I might grab a 3 pin extension from bitfenix so I can connect it to the other headers that are voltage based. Hopefully all of my headers are linked to the CPU temp.


Chassis fan headers on Gigabyte Z68 and Z77 boards are linked to system temperature, not cpu. Don't know if they changed that with Z87 boards but I think that the CPU_OPT header will be able to control your AP-15's based on cpu temperature


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well easy tune fails to load :/


I've had a ticket into Gigabyte now for nearly 6 months and they have yet to resolve my issue with Easy Tune. Needless to say it's worthless. I've been using speedfan instead and haven't looked back.


----------



## circeseye

no the temps dont spike. and as for hearing it lol it makes no noise. actually the only thing i ever hear is my 670's fans once in a while. the only way for me to hear anything with the pump is using a mini stethoscope and that is a steady hummmm. im wondering if it is the asus mobo lieing to me
also it was the re-flushed batch that i got


----------



## Gabrielzm

If temps are not spiking then there is no problem. It is annoying I known but it is just a software bug from this awesome, well thought, incredibly performing software that ASUS gave us...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If temps are not spiking then there is no problem. It is annoying I known but it is just a software bug from this awesome, well thought, incredibly performing software that ASUS gave us...


I can confirm this as I've seen this same type of behavior on my Maximus V Formula on my system here at work. Temps don't spike, but the AI Suite software will sometimes randomly show that my CPU RPMs drop to 0.


----------



## NIK1

I changed the fans on my h220 rad to Gentle Typhoons AP15.Rated at 1850 rpm.When I check the speed of the fans with hwmonitor it shows the fans running at 1719 tops. Running very quiet at 1719 rpm .Just wondering why there not going to 1850 rpm like the rating says. Anyone have any ideas..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I changed the fans on my h220 rad to Gentle Typhoons AP15.Rated at 1850 rpm.When I check the speed of the fans with hwmonitor it shows the fans running at 1719 tops. Running very quiet at 1719 rpm .Just wondering why there not going to 1850 rpm like the rating says. Anyone have any ideas..


Most fans have a tolerance of about 10% + or - and that's why you're probably seeing this as your top speed.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Well easy tune fails to load :/
> 
> 
> 
> I've had a ticket into Gigabyte now for nearly 6 months and they have yet to resolve my issue with Easy Tune. Needless to say it's worthless. I've been using speedfan instead and haven't looked back.
Click to expand...

I cant seem get speed fan to control it, I have the pump connected on the PWM splitter along with the fans, Pump is at CH1 and the PWM cable of the splitter connected on my CPU_Header.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I cant seem get speed fan to control it, I have the pump connected on the PWM splitter along with the fans, Pump is at CH1 and the PWM cable of the splitter connected on my CPU_Header.


Are you sure your BIOS is set to PWM on the cpu_fa header? Gigabyte boards usually have the option to use cpu_header both as voltage or PWM.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm this as I've seen this same type of behavior on my Maximus V Formula on my system here at work. Temps don't spike, but the AI Suite software will sometimes randomly show that my CPU RPMs drop to 0.


i can confirm over several boards that this happens.. it is why asus software sucks. it is very buggy, even heard of it stopping controling fans and ruining cpus due to high heat from fans not working. i install it for the usb stuff... but i disable the monitoring stuff ( wish i didnt have to install it. but it does it no matter what. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I changed the fans on my h220 rad to Gentle Typhoons AP15.Rated at 1850 rpm.When I check the speed of the fans with hwmonitor it shows the fans running at 1719 tops. Running very quiet at 1719 rpm .Just wondering why there not going to 1850 rpm like the rating says. Anyone have any ideas..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Most fans have a tolerance of about 10% + or - and that's why you're probably seeing this as your top speed.











+ it is a software program. it does not mean it is accurate. i would be willing to bet it is not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I cant seem get speed fan to control it, I have the pump connected on the PWM splitter along with the fans, Pump is at CH1 and the PWM cable of the splitter connected on my CPU_Header.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Are you sure your BIOS is set to PWM on the cpu_fa header? Gigabyte boards usually have the option to use cpu_header both as voltage or PWM.


----------



## EarlZ

Those are my bios options and by the looks of the the CPU_FAN and OPT are controlled togther, I dont have a clue on what those 2.5 PWN / C means. What should I set it for speedfan to control it?


----------



## Dudewitbow

If i had to guess what the PWM value / C it means how much % fan speed increase depending on change in temperature. e.g 38 celcius would corrolate to 95% pwm speed using the 2.5 multiplier(38 * 2.5)

I would think for the pump, the lower ratio options would be prefered(e.g 60 celcius cpu would have 45% pwm under .75 ratio). Can it go lower than .75 ratio? dont most users use an extremely low pwm rate for their h220 pumps?


----------



## EarlZ

What do i set for speed fan to give me control ?


----------



## EarlZ

I now have control on the PWM by following the video guide, thanks ez12a!

Since the Helix fans are used as my intake and I always prefer to run the pump at max speed anyway I just need to find a way to control the GT-AP15 fans based on CPU temp but since the OPT port is link to the CPU_Header control. I will end up lowering the pump speed and the intake fans.. I guess I need to disconnect the helix fans from the PWM splitter.

Im thinking of using a regular 3 pin splitter and connecting it to the OPT header and see if it can control the GT-AP15

Also I feel that the Helix fans are terrible for intake fans on the 350D compared to the GT-AP15.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I now have control on the PWM by following the video guide, thanks ez12a!
> 
> Since the Helix fans are used as my intake and I always prefer to run the pump at max speed anyway I just need to find a way to control the GT-AP15 fans based on CPU temp but since the OPT port is link to the CPU_Header control. I will end up lowering the pump speed and the intake fans.. I guess I need to disconnect the helix fans from the PWM splitter.
> 
> Im thinking of using a regular 3 pin splitter and connecting it to the OPT header and see if it can control the GT-AP15
> 
> Also I feel that the Helix fans are terrible for intake fans on the 350D compared to the GT-AP15.


Same issue here except I have to power fans off of the pwm splitter cause they will likely damage header (ap30pwm's).
If you are talking about running two AP15's off one header just make sure the sum voltage of the fans doesnt exceed 1A-12watts
Just remember you still wont be able to control the fans independently from the cpu header.

I think the helix fans are junk, just hold one in your hand they weigh next to nothing. Also I have found that if you get a gasket or better yet a 7mm or thicker
shroud to mount in between your fans and the radiator it lessens the dead spot and cools much better. This is especially true with the large motors on
the gentle typhoons.
Two of these.... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_986&products_id=29693


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I now have control on the PWM by following the video guide, thanks ez12a!
> 
> Since the Helix fans are used as my intake and I always prefer to run the pump at max speed anyway I just need to find a way to control the GT-AP15 fans based on CPU temp but since the OPT port is link to the CPU_Header control. I will end up lowering the pump speed and the intake fans.. I guess I need to disconnect the helix fans from the PWM splitter.
> 
> Im thinking of using a regular 3 pin splitter and connecting it to the OPT header and see if it can control the GT-AP15
> 
> Also I feel that the Helix fans are terrible for intake fans on the 350D compared to the GT-AP15.
> 
> 
> 
> Same issue here except I have to power fans off of the pwm splitter cause they will likely damage header (ap30pwm's).
> If you are talking about running two AP15's off one header just make sure the sum voltage of the fans doesnt exceed 1A-12watts
> Just remember you still wont be able to control the fans independently from the cpu header.
> 
> I think the helix fans are junk, just hold one in your hand they weigh next to nothing. Also I have found that if you get a gasket or better yet a 7mm or thicker
> shroud to mount in between your fans and the radiator it lessens the dead spot and cools much better. This is especially true with the large motors on
> the gentle typhoons.
> Two of these.... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_986&products_id=29693
Click to expand...

I am using an mATX casing so space is a premium but i guess there is more enough space for a 7mm spacer, I dont have the necessary length of screws though.

Each GT-AP15 is 0.083A so each fan is like 0.996Watts only so the mobo header should be fine.

I also agree how you feel towards the helix fans.... though on martins testing they are pretty close to the GT-AP15 but I guess for intakes they are terrible. I have 1 more GT-AP15 as an exhaust at 7v, I'll probably get another GT-AP15 and use it as intake and just put the helix fan for exhaust at 12v.


----------



## bobsaget

Hey everyone,

i'm going to change the tubing this week.
I've got a small but annoying issue with the included screws.

There are 2 kinds of screws in the H220 bundle, the short ones and the long ones.
The H220 is at the top of the case, fans on top of the rad, in a pull setup.
RAD=>FANS=>CASE









The most convenient setup is to use the short swiftech screws between fans and rad, and then standard fan screws between case and fans.

The problem is that I also use NB eLoop PWM fans instead of the original Helix fans and it's impossible to use the short Swiftech screws because the fan holes are a little "raised" compared to the Helix fans because of the anti vibration pads. That is why the short screws are too short to attach the rad and fans together.


The only way i was able to mount the whole thing was to use the long screws only, and screw everything together at the same time. It was quite painful to hold the rad and fans with one hand, try not to budge the fans, and align both of them with the case and use the screwdriver.

I don't want to do that again after i replace the tubing.

Any idea? thanks

I hope i made myself clear


----------



## tongerks

Hi is my temp normal?

room temp 24deg


----------



## m0rPhEuZz

HI all,

Can anyone please confirm if the Swiftech H320 will work in a CoolerMaster ATCS 840.
Many Thanks in advance


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0rPhEuZz*
> 
> HI all,
> 
> Can anyone please confirm if the Swiftech H320 will work in a CoolerMaster ATCS 840.
> Many Thanks in advance


Yes it will.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi is my temp normal?
> 
> room temp 24deg


head over to your profile and fill in your system.

Is that load or idle?
Intake or exhaust?
Stock fans or aftermarket?


----------



## bond32

Some photos for jinjat:





Note the vrm heatsink, when it comes down to the northbridge it gets larger which means a tight fit if you mount the pump with the inlet on the DIMM side. The orientation I have is the best as it has no real issues with fitment except the loss of the 2 black dimm slots.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Some photos for jinjat:
> 
> 
> 
> Note the vrm heatsink, when it comes down to the northbridge it gets larger which means a tight fit if you mount the pump with the inlet on the DIMM side. The orientation I have is the best as it has no real issues with fitment except the loss of the 2 black dimm slots.


You really need to add a radiator in the front and put those cards under water.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> i'm going to change the tubing this week.
> I've got a small but annoying issue with the included screws.
> 
> There are 2 kinds of screws in the H220 bundle, the short ones and the long ones.
> The H220 is at the top of the case, fans on top of the rad, in a pull setup.
> RAD=>FANS=>CASE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most convenient setup is to use the short swiftech screws between fans and rad, and then standard fan screws between case and fans.
> 
> The problem is that I also use NB eLoop PWM fans instead of the original Helix fans and it's impossible to use the short Swiftech screws because the fan holes are a little "raised" compared to the Helix fans because of the anti vibration pads. That is why the short screws are too short to attach the rad and fans together.
> 
> 
> The only way i was able to mount the whole thing was to use the long screws only, and screw everything together at the same time. It was quite painful to hold the rad and fans with one hand, try not to budge the fans, and align both of them with the case and use the screwdriver.
> 
> I don't want to do that again after i replace the tubing.
> 
> Any idea? thanks
> 
> I hope i made myself clear


My setup is the same, long screws through the case, fans, then into the RAD. Once you get the hang of it, its not hard. Plus, its not like you are going to be removing everything on a regular basis.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You really need to add a radiator in the front and put those cards under water.


It's in the works, I have the second gpu block on order. Also had the 360 rad in hand... Just installed it for fun.



Edit: here's a bench at 5.1 ghz... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7040708


----------



## EarlZ

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but would anyone know whats the difference between the 2L 12 and 2H06 markings on the back side of the Gentle Typhoon AP15


----------



## SleazyC

Hey all, I just finished installing my H220 (getting that backplate on sure was fun) and I have kicked off a leak test and was curious as to how loud the pump is. Upon hooking up the pump to my power supply I was surprised that I couldn't really hear anything coming from it. Putting my fingers on the tubing running to the radiator it feels like vibration/movement is going on, feels like water is being pushed through the tubes but because I can't really distinctly hear the pump I am kind of worried of whether or not water is being pushed through.

Maybe I should turn off the fans on the radiator as I have them hooked up and running as well?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Hey all, I just finished installing my H220 (getting that backplate on sure was fun) and I have kicked off a leak test and was curious as to how loud the pump is. Upon hooking up the pump to my power supply I was surprised that I couldn't really hear anything coming from it. Putting my fingers on the tubing running to the radiator it feels like vibration/movement is going on, feels like water is being pushed through the tubes but because I can't really distinctly hear the pump I am kind of worried of whether or not water is being pushed through.
> 
> Maybe I should turn off the fans on the radiator as I have them hooked up and running as well?


If the pump is running at full speed, even deaf people can hear it. Mine runs at around 1200 and its whisper quiet.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> If the pump is running at full speed, even deaf people can hear it. Mine runs at around 1200 and its whisper quiet.


It's connected to my power supply via the included PWM splitter, the pump is connected on channel 1. I thought that if any fan or pump is connected to the power supply it runs at 100%? If that's the case something definitely might be up with my pump as it must be running at less than 100%.

I'll likely connect all other components sometime tomorrow to see if the pump is actually working or not but wanted to get some leak testing in tonight and if the pump is having problems not sure how successful that testing will be.


----------



## Mega Man

nah they are pretty silent, in general all pumps are pretty silent , make sure you have it hooked up to a pwm header


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nah they are pretty silent, in general all pumps are pretty silent , make sure you have it hooked up to a pwm header


Even for leak testing? I don't have the motherboard currently plugged in and just am running the pump's power connector directly to the PWM splitter channel 1. The PWM splitter is only connected to my power supply via a molex plug. The other connector is not connected to anything currently.


----------



## ez12a

for leak testing you shoudl be fine, just as long as you're using the splitter (the 4 pin connector coming from the splitter does not have to be hooked to anything)


----------



## EarlZ

I cannot say the pump is pretty silent, infact they are louder than the Helix and GT-AP15 in terms of motor noise. I cannot hear the pump from where I am sitting but If I place my ear close to the top vents on my case the pump is audible, not the air trapped noise but the actual sound of the motor.


----------



## Phelan

I can't hear the pump on mine at 100% over the fans even with my head 2 feet away. The only thing I can hear is the occasional water trickle.


----------



## EarlZ

No water trickles on my end though, so either there is a huge variance between pump noises or mine is defective ( I hope not ) or I am just sensitive to the noise it makes.

A little update on my fan setup, I had the Helix fans as intake on my case and 1 GT-AP15 as an exhaust at 7v, I can really feel the air that is coming out from the exhaust but I can also tell that the Helix fans are pretty terrible as intake fans on my case so I decided to get another GT-AP15 and took out the one on the back and used it as an intake and used one of the Helix (fullspeed) as exhaust and to my surprise it barely pulls out enough air as compared to a 7v GT-AP15.


----------



## ez12a

yep, helix fans dont do too well with obstructions. GTs are much more effective.

i can hear the pump from where I sit with the computer at my feet when it's maxed. It has a noticeable whir at full speed, but it rarely runs at full speed when controlled with speedfan. Since its speed is also tied into my fans speeds, its difficult to distinguish when everything's going.


----------



## EarlZ

Im still waiting for my 3pin extension cables to arrive so that I can hook up the GT-AP15's to the OPT header and probably just control them via the PWM / C values on the bios.


----------



## Mega Man

if the mobo has no power you dont have to worry about anything


----------



## Watagump

What is this leak testing thing I keep hearing about?


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What is this leak testing thing I keep hearing about?


I thought about living on the edge, and just throwing everything together and jumping straight into overclocking but this being my first time using watercooling I thought it'd be best to do everything the proper way.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I am using an mATX casing so space is a premium but i guess there is more enough space for a 7mm spacer, I dont have the necessary length of screws though.
> 
> Each GT-AP15 is 0.083A so each fan is like 0.996Watts only so the mobo header should be fine.
> 
> I also agree how you feel towards the helix fans.... though on martins testing they are pretty close to the GT-AP15 but I guess for intakes they are terrible. I have 1 more GT-AP15 as an exhaust at 7v, I'll probably get another GT-AP15 and use it as intake and just put the helix fan for exhaust at 12v.


These are the screws I ordered with that shroud, they worked great
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_236&products_id=30661
And the gasket so I wouldnt get any vibration with the rad against the metal on my case.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=36363


----------



## passinos

Buying my first H220. Is the only place to get them is Canada ?
I see ncix.ca will have them in 2 days.
Thanks


----------



## Quadricwan

Canada has access to a product that the US doesn't! First time for everything, yay!

Methinks I'll be picking one up for a SFF HTPC build soon. Awesome


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Buying my first H220. Is the only place to get them is Canada ?
> I see ncix.ca will have them in 2 days.
> Thanks


Not sure if the US import ban is still in place, but I managed to pick one up from a Microcenter. If you are in the States and on the East Coast it's an option.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> I thought about living on the edge, and just throwing everything together and jumping straight into overclocking but this being my first time using watercooling I thought it'd be best to do everything the proper way.


Which is fine, I didn't even bother since these units are tested already.


----------



## tw33k

Installed my H320 yesterday. Temps are ~6c lower than with my old H100. It's not an apples to apples comparison though as the H320 is in a Corsair 900D while the H100 was in an 800D but still..

*H100*


*H320*


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> It's in the works, I have the second gpu block on order. Also had the 360 rad in hand... Just installed it for fun.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: here's a bench at 5.1 ghz... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7040708


What about those 60mm 360 Rad? Will they fit in the front in the 540 without drilling holes?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What about those 60mm 360 Rad? Will they fit in the front in the 540 without drilling holes?


Having worked in this case, I think the main issue with using one of the thicker radiators would be room for a long graphics card. I don't think you'll have room for push/ pull on one of these radiators either. Cable management will also be impaired due to the way the radiator will make getting access to the routing grommets difficult. Fitting a top radiator will also be an issue if you're using a 3 x 120mm fan radiator in the front.


----------



## Imprezzion

I am still very pleasantly suprized by the H320's performance.

I have it fitted with 6 PWM Nosieblocker BlackSilentFan XLP (1000-2000RPM PWM - Blue transparant blades - 75CFM - 2.65mm-h2o - 31dB) fans in push/pull.
Great fans btw. Super quiet @ 1000RPM, bit noisy at 2000RPM full blast but not too much and they look super slick. They also have very high static pressure.

But my 2500K is @ 5160Mhz now (103.2x50) with 1.424v and under LinX AVX with the fans full blast it runs 74c hottest core after 60 minutes (20c ambient) and in-game like BF3 or something it hits about 55c hottest core with variable fanspeed. (PWM is set to 100% @ >65c and 20% @ <40c so it'll be at about 70% PWM?) Definatly not quiet, but that wasn't the goal to begin with anyway. I just wnated PWM so that in idle they'd be quiet and load they could make whatever noise they'd want.

But seriously, <60c 24/7 @ 5.16Ghz is epic. Hell, <75c in LinX is even more







Prime95 won't even make it to 70c...

Hell I could even go back to my old clock, 5.3Ghz @ 1.480v and it would be fine 24/7 at about 60-65c in normal usage...


----------



## tw33k

I realised I had the fans turned right down. I turned the Kazes up to 1900rpm and the Cooler Masters to 1500rpm and the results are a lot better. 6c less than the H100 on the hottest core and over 8c less delta temp. Awesome cooler.


----------



## jincuteguy

I wished anyone with a H320 can compare it to the H100i or a high end custom loop


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It will beat the H100i, not tests needed. It is giving, due to the larger surface area.
High end custom would be close if used with similar rad and fan setup.


----------



## Nilsom

Hello to all

a week that my refrigerator is making that noise,

Anyone know what can be?

help please!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Hello to all
> 
> a week that my refrigerator is making that noise,
> 
> Anyone know what can be?
> 
> help please!


Air in the loop. Prop the end of the rad with the reservoir up, run the pump at full speed, make sure the fluid is topped off.

Also run it for a bit with the cap off. Also tilt the radiator from side to side often (cap on).


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It will beat the H100i, not tests needed. It is giving, due to the larger surface area.
> High end custom would be close if used with similar rad and fan setup.


I know it will beat the H100i for sure. But how much? I mean the H320 costs like $180 total to ship from NCIX.ca , $80 over the H100i. If the H320 beat the old H100 about 6c, then it'll prob around 3-2C better thant he H100i. The point im trying to make is that is it worth the $80 for 3c? And I'm just guess right now that's why I'm wondering if anyone could compare it to the H100i.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

H100 in his case was 6c, in others it could be double or less.
Different factors for temps will not be the same as you. Case, air flow, fans, temps and cpu, how much of an OC.

Price is subjective, if the product was in US. As you have to buy outside your area, and pay higher cost.
Do you want a 360 rad? Are you going to expand to include GPU?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I know it will beat the H100i for sure. But how much? I mean the H320 costs like $180 total to ship from NCIX.ca , $80 over the H100i. If the H320 beat the old H100 about 6c, then it'll prob around 3-2C better thant he H100i. The point im trying to make is that is it worth the $80 for 3c? And I'm just guess right now that's why I'm wondering if anyone could compare it to the H100i.


Is not only temps...You are forgetting about noise. To come close to the h220 or h320 the corsair counterparts have to make a lot of more noise to accomplish that....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Hello to all
> 
> a week that my refrigerator is making that noise,
> 
> Anyone know what can be?
> 
> help please!


I responded to your video. I look forward to hearing from you soon.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H100 in his case was 6c, in others it could be double or less.
> Different factors for temps will not be the same as you. Case, air flow, fans, temps and cpu, how much of an OC.
> 
> Price is subjective, if the product was in US. As you have to buy outside your area, and pay higher cost.
> Do you want a 360 rad? Are you going to expand to include GPU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Is not only temps...You are forgetting about noise. To come close to the h220 or h320 the corsair counterparts have to make a lot of more noise to accomplish that....


I know the temps are varied depend on a lot of factor obviously. But the 6c diff is just a number to give you an idea. It doesn't mean that the H320 is like 20c better over the H100i in some other cases. 6c is just a rough idea to give you a rough idea of how the H320 compare to the H100i.
My point is I just want to see a comparision between the two. I'm not trying to argue with you about these little stuff.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I know the temps are varied depend on a lot of factor obviously. But the 6c diff is just a number to give you an idea. It doesn't mean that the H320 is like 20c better over the H100i in some other cases. 6c is just a rough idea to give you a rough idea of how the H320 compare to the H100i.
> My point is I just want to see a comparision between the two. I'm not trying to argue with you about these little stuff.


Not arguing here either. Just pointing to you something that I think is important. Performance = noise x temps. The difference in degrees might or not be greater that some value but the difference in performance....


----------



## SleazyC

Anyone have any idea why I am not getting an RPM reading on my pump? I have it hooked up to CH1 on the PWM splitter, but I don't get a reading in my BIOS or in Speedfan. I have no way to see if it the pump is running at 100% or to even figure out if my fans on the radiator are running at max speed.

EDIT - Seems like my PWM splitter isn't reporting RPM speed. If I plug the pump header into the motherboard directly I get an RPM reading, when I plug the PWM splitter + 4 fans into the CPU_OPT header I get no RPM reading in the BIOS.

EDIT #2 - Anyone have any comments on temperatures with a 4770K overclocked? I was just doing some basic OC'ing and testing, pushing the CPU to 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, and 4.6 (all requiring vcore's of 1.45-1.6) and I was getting some pretty insane temperatures running AIDA64. I was seeing anywhere from mid 90's to high 90's after only about 15 minutes of testing. I'm worried about leaving these tests running for long times with these temperatures so high. I wonder if I maybe put too much TIM on the CPU when I installed the block + pump.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Anyone have any idea why I am not getting an RPM reading on my pump? I have it hooked up to CH1 on the PWM splitter, but I don't get a reading in my BIOS or in Speedfan. I have no way to see if it the pump is running at 100% or to even figure out if my fans on the radiator are running at max speed.
> 
> EDIT - Seems like my PWM splitter isn't reporting RPM speed. If I plug the pump header into the motherboard directly I get an RPM reading, when I plug the PWM splitter + 4 fans into the CPU_OPT header I get no RPM reading in the BIOS.
> 
> EDIT #2 - Anyone have any comments on temperatures with a 4770K overclocked? I was just doing some basic OC'ing and testing, pushing the CPU to 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, and 4.6 (all requiring vcore's of 2.45-2.6) and I was getting some pretty insane temperatures running AIDA64. I was seeing anywhere from mid 90's to high 90's after only about 15 minutes of testing. I'm worried about leaving these tests running for long times with these temperatures so high. I wonder if I maybe put too much TIM on the CPU when I installed the block + pump.


It's also possible that the header is being voltage controlled. The only wire on the splitter that hooks up to the fan header is the PWM wire, so voltage control will get no reading from it. Check in your BIOS to see if the header is controlled with PWM or voltage. If you're not using the splitter when you got those temps, that would also explain the high temps.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It's also possible that the header is being voltage controlled. The only wire on the splitter that hooks up to the fan header is the PWM wire, so voltage control will get no reading from it. Check in your BIOS to see if the header is controlled with PWM or voltage. If you're not using the splitter when you got those temps, that would also explain the high temps.


I switched over to having the radiator fans connected to motherboard headers using Y-splitters and I can see the RPM just fine now.

The temperatures were occurring with all fans + pump controlled via PWM so I am still probing into why they are so high. Maybe I just lost the silicon lottery.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> I switched over to having the radiator fans connected to motherboard headers using Y-splitters and I can see the RPM just fine now.
> 
> The temperatures were occurring with all fans + pump controlled via PWM so I am still probing into why they are so high. Maybe I just lost the silicon lottery.


A fan header can still read rpm off a pwm fan when it's being controlled with voltage. But with the splitter there is no wires from the fan to read rpm from except the pwm wire, which won't show anything if the fans are being voltage controlled. 99% of motherboard headers that are not cpu_fan and cpu_optional are voltage contolled btw. The easy way to tell if they are being voltage controlled is to plug everything into the splitter and plug the splitter into the molex and the fan header you are checking. If you can change the speed of the fans/pump with the mobo (you will see a diffeeence if you watch them), it is pwm control. If they stay at 100%, the header is voltage control. They will stay at 100% because they are receiving the full 12v from the molex and the mobo cannot change the voltage. This is the ONLY way to test this safely, because voltage modulation will damage the pump and the included pwm fans.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> A fan header can still read rpm off a pwm fan when it's being controlled with voltage. But with the splitter there is no wires from the fan to read rpm from except the pwm wire, which won't show anything if the fans are being voltage controlled. 99% of motherboard headers that are not cpu_fan and cpu_optional are voltage contolled btw. The easy way to tell if they are being voltage controlled is to plug everything into the splitter and plug the splitter into the molex and the fan header you are checking. If you can change the speed of the fans/pump with the mobo (you will see a diffeeence if you watch them), it is pwm control. If they stay at 100%, the header is voltage control. They will stay at 100% because they are receiving the full 12v from the molex and the mobo cannot change the voltage. This is the ONLY way to test this safely, because voltage modulation will damage the pump and the included pwm fans.


So if the fans (connected via Y-splitters) are changing RPM and not just running at 100% then I can assume they are being controlled by PWM? Or can voltage control also lower the speed of fans and up it as the voltage increases?

(Sorry if I'm a little dense here, this is the first time I've used PWM fans or worried about PWM control)


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> So if the fans (connected via Y-splitters) are changing RPM and not just running at 100% then I can assume they are being controlled by PWM? Or can voltage control also lower the speed of fans and up it as the voltage increases?
> 
> (Sorry if I'm a little dense here, this is the first time I've used PWM fans or worried about PWM control)


Yes the fans will change speed when voltage controlled, but more drastically than voltage fans.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It's also possible that the header is being voltage controlled. The only wire on the splitter that hooks up to the fan header is the PWM wire, so voltage control will get no reading from it. Check in your BIOS to see if the header is controlled with PWM or voltage. If you're not using the splitter when you got those temps, that would also explain the high temps.


incorrect, the 3rd and fth wire are brought back to the mobo, 3rd is rpm, 4th is pwm (rpm wire is only transferred to the #1 output


----------



## kingd0ng

Hello Guys, I'm looking at possibly buying a Swiftech H220 or H320 but was wondering if anyone has successfully installed an H320 in a Cooler Master HAF X? I would rather buy the bigger radiator but if it won't fit... @Phelan mentioned to me that somebody in the Owner's Club had managed to do this? Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yes the fans will change speed when voltage controlled, but more drastically than voltage fans.


Dumb question, when I have the the PWM splitter plugged into the CPU_FAN header do I also need to plug it into my PSU via molex? My first setups had all 4 fans + pump hooked up to splitter with the splitter connected to the CPU_FAN header and also to my PSU via molex. It seemed like all fans were running at 100%, but the pump was not running at 100%. I also could not get any RPM reading from my pump.


----------



## Mega Man

yes you do


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> incorrect, the 3rd and fth wire are brought back to the mobo, 3rd is rpm, 4th is pwm (rpm wire is only transferred to the #1 output


Noted thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingd0ng*
> 
> Hello Guys, I'm looking at possibly buying a Swiftech H220 or H320 but was wondering if anyone has successfully installed an H320 in a Cooler Master HAF X? I would rather buy the bigger radiator but if it won't fit... @Phelan mentioned to me that somebody in the Owner's Club had managed to do this? Thanks in advance for any help.


Yes you can mount it. You lose 2 ODD bays slots.
Mounting on has 4 screw spots. Which it caused some vibration for my 360 rad.


----------



## MrStick89

Is my pump failing?? Pump plugged in to CH1 of splitter. My pump rpm dropped to 0 suddenly and CPU temps jumped to 76 never been that high.. pretty pissed actually because I've never let it go above 60.


----------



## SleazyC

Still having issues setting my fans as PWM. I moved over the H220 pump to the CPU_FAN header and the PWM splitter to CPU_OPT and set the CPU_OPT fans to manual. It seems like all my radiator fans are running at 100% regardless. Popping open SpeedFan I still am only seeing the RPM's on the pump but I believe that is being voltage controlled.

Kind of stumped here.


----------



## michael-ocn

You have a GA-Z87X-UD4H, is that right? And your radiator fans are PWM fans, is that right?

According to your mobo's manual, looks like the only fan header that produces a PWM signal on pin4 of the connector is the CPU_FAN header.
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z87x-ud4h_e.pdf

There's no point to plugging the splitter into CPU_OPT. It makes perfect sense that your fans are running at full speed given how you have it hooked up. Plugging the splitter in that CPU_OPT accomplishes nothing since it does not produce a PWM signal. The fans are being powered at 12v via the the molex power connector and they are not getting any PWM signal to tell them to run at less than 100%.

If your goal is to control the pump and fan speeds based on the CPU temp...plug the splitter into CPU_FAN and give it power with the molex connector, plug your pump and all of you pwm rad fans into the splitter, set the CPU fan control to 'normal' in the BIOS. Once you observe that pump and fan speeds go up and down with cpu temps, edit the BIOS setting to taste.

Several pages back, did you mention having vcore at 1.6v??? I think that is insanely high.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Still having issues setting my fans as PWM. I moved over the H220 pump to the CPU_FAN header and the PWM splitter to CPU_OPT and set the CPU_OPT fans to manual. It seems like all my radiator fans are running at 100% regardless. Popping open SpeedFan I still am only seeing the RPM's on the pump but I believe that is being voltage controlled.
> 
> Kind of stumped here.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> You have a GA-Z87X-UD4H, is that right? And your radiator fans are PWM fans, is that right?
> 
> According to your mobo's manual, looks like the only fan header that produces a PWM signal on pin4 of the connector is the CPU_FAN header.
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z87x-ud4h_e.pdf
> 
> There's no point to plugging the splitter into CPU_OPT. It makes perfect sense that your fans are running at full speed given how you have it hooked up. Plugging the splitter in that CPU_OPT accomplishes nothing since it does not produce a PWM signal. The fans are being powered at 12v via the the molex power connector and they are not getting any PWM signal to tell them to run at less than 100%.
> 
> If your goal is to control the pump and fan speeds based on the CPU temp...plug the splitter into CPU_FAN and give it power with the molex connector, plug your pump and all of you pwm rad fans into the splitter, set the CPU fan control to 'normal' in the BIOS. Once you observe that pump and fan speeds go up and down with cpu temps, edit the BIOS setting to taste.
> 
> Several pages back, did you mention having vcore at 1.6v??? I think that is insanely high.


Thanks for looking into this for me. I have never used PWM fans before and was having a heck of a time getting them to function properly.

Also the 1.6v vcore was a mistake on my part, I mean that I had pushed my vcore up to 1.26 in trying to get a stable overclock. I've since had some help in the Gigabyte Z87X OC thread and am doing stablity tests at 1.25 with much more manageable temperatures than I was getting before.


----------



## michael-ocn

Good luck getting things setup to you're liking. The one bummer about the 8-way splitter is that you lose the ability to monitor rpms of the individual devices plugged into it, you only get to see the speed of the device plugged into CH1 of the splitter. Whew... 1.25... yea... that sounds more like it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Thanks for looking into this for me. I have never used PWM fans before and was having a heck of a time getting them to function properly.
> 
> Also the 1.6v vcore was a mistake on my part, I mean that I had pushed my vcore up to 1.26 in trying to get a stable overclock. I've since had some help in the Gigabyte Z87X OC thread and am doing stablity tests at 1.25 with much more manageable temperatures than I was getting before.


----------



## kingd0ng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes you can mount it. You lose 2 ODD bays slots.
> Mounting on has 4 screw spots. Which it caused some vibration for my 360 rad.


Thanks for that, I really wanted the H320 for the extra cooling performance, I didn't think of extending it through to my 5.1/4" bays. Now I just need to find somewhere that actually has them in stock.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Highflow.nl's all out of H220s, so mine's backordered.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingd0ng*
> 
> Thanks for that, I really wanted the H320 for the extra cooling performance, I didn't think of extending it through to my 5.1/4" bays. Now I just need to find somewhere that actually has them in stock.


They should be in stock by Monday or Tuesday at ncix.ca . That is a Canadian website that I pre-ordered from. Their estimated arrival date of H320 shipment is today, but I would say realistically Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## bond32

Alright guys, placed the order for my new stuff. Going to be taking pics of my H220 today. PM me if you're interested... Going to be including quite a bit of tubing as I am going with a different tubing size. Also including all my 3/8 ID fittings. Asking price will be $150 shipped.


----------



## bobsaget

I read through all your interesting posts about 4 pin PWM or voltage regulated header and am wondering if it's ok to block the pump @ 10% or less (based on the fact it is running on a "true" pwm fan header).
Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I read through all your interesting posts about 4 pin PWM or voltage regulated header and am wondering if it's ok to block the pump @ 10% or less (based on the fact it is running on a "true" pwm fan header).
> Thanks.


The pump runs 1200 rpm at "0%" so 10% shouldn't be a problem as long as it's pwm controlled.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The pump runs 1200 rpm at "0%" so 10% shouldn't be a problem as long as it's pwm controlled.


Ok i didn't know 0% was 1200rpm, i thought it would turn it off.
Is 0% fine for the original 240 rad and much shorter tubing? (10 to 15 centimeters)?


----------



## Phelan

Yeah no prob


----------



## bobsaget

Great. Thanks


----------



## kikibgd

ok i finally changed the tubing on h220 flushed the system with destiled water from the pump came black particles a lot of them, will post photo of filter later on.

i filtered the liquid put back in toped with destiled water, same noise, witch is really unbarable, i will make video if that.

any ideas? i followed the instructions in OP. how long do i need to tilt it from side to side?


----------



## MojoW

Can anybody tell me what the airflow direction is on the h320 ? (Out of the box)
I don't see any arrows on the side of the fans ?
Wanna install this so help is much appreciated.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> Can anybody tell me what the airflow direction is on the h320 ? (Out of the box)
> I don't see any arrows on the side of the fans ?
> Wanna install this so help is much appreciated.


I might be wrong here, but if its anything like the H220 it will be setup in push.


----------



## MojoW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> I might be wrong here, but if its anything like the H220 it will be setup in push.


Thnx for the fast response








I'm getting my hands dirty


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> Is my pump failing?? Pump plugged in to CH1 of splitter. My pump rpm dropped to 0 suddenly and CPU temps jumped to 76 never been that high.. pretty pissed actually because I've never let it go above 60.


Please PM me with the details of your situation. Also include how long you've had the kit and where you purchased it from. I'll get you taken care of.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> Can anybody tell me what the airflow direction is on the h320 ? (Out of the box)
> I don't see any arrows on the side of the fans ?
> Wanna install this so help is much appreciated.


If you see the sticker, then it set to pull. See the hub, it's push.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

So I had the issue where my pump res was apparently low, so I added some distilled water and it solved it. But now 2 weeks later the issue has returned. Is this normal? Or is there something wrong?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So I had the issue where my pump res was apparently low, so I added some distilled water and it solved it. But now 2 weeks later the issue has returned. Is this normal? Or is there something wrong?


When you say low, do you mean low on coolant?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> When you say low, do you mean low on coolant?


Yes, my bad on lack of details.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Yes, my bad on lack of details.


Have you checked for any possible leaks?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you checked for any possible leaks?


That's what I fear, but I have not spotted one. Never heard or seen any drips nor have I seen any wet spots in my PC. If the tubes coming out of the Radiator leak there will be drops next to my bottom fan. If the tubes from the pump are leaking... Well then there goes my $300 GPU which hasn't happened yet, knocking on wood as I type...


----------



## BramSLI1

OK, the only other thing it would be is that there is still some air in the radiator or the loop. This is why you still need to top it off because it wasn't completely filled the first time. It will take several months or so, to a year before you would need to add even a little coolant to it.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, the only other thing it would be is that there is still some air in the radiator or the loop. This is why you still need to top it off because it wasn't completely filled the first time. It will take several months or so, to a year before you would need to add even a little coolant to it.


So just keep adding Distilled water to it? Then around Christmas time just go ahead and add new coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So just keep adding Distilled water to it? Then around Christmas time just go ahead and add new coolant?


Just add distilled water until it's completely full. You may need to top it off after a few days of running so that it can have time to work all of the bubbles out. This is probably why you need to add more distilled water in the first place. You shouldn't need to replace the coolant for another 3 years once it's full and sealed back up. That's if you haven't expanded it and you don't expand it in that time frame.


----------



## dansi

just wondering should we top up the liquid to max? will it improve performance slightly or just a measure to prevent air/noise?

keen to top up myself but im afraid opening the vent will introduce air as my unit is working perfectly quiet at the moment.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> just wondering should we top up the liquid to max? will it improve performance slightly or just a measure to prevent air/noise?
> 
> keen to top up myself but im afraid opening the vent will introduce air as my unit is working perfectly quiet at the moment.


I didn't do a damn thing to mine, just installed it, hooked it up and that's that.


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> just wondering should we top up the liquid to max? will it improve performance slightly or just a measure to prevent air/noise?
> 
> keen to top up myself but im afraid opening the vent will introduce air as my unit is working perfectly quiet at the moment.


golden rule of everything

if its working dont touch it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> golden rule of everything
> 
> if its working dont touch it


+1


----------



## SleazyC

So I've got the included PWM splitter running to the CPU_FAN header, and the pump connected to CH1 and I am still not getting an RPM reading form the pump nor are the fans modulating their speed. They seem to be running at 100%. I'm beginning to feel like either my motherboard is having issues or the PWM splitter is busted.

The weird thing is that it doesn't sound like the pump is running at 100% yet it seems to rev up when I put load on the CPU. I'm about to just move the pump to CPU_FAN and the radiator fans to CPU_OPT since I don't mind them running at 100%.


----------



## gdubc

Maybe the splitter isn't wired correctly?
If you attach a pwm fan to cpu_fan does it function correctly? Or if you attach a 3 pin to it does it run full speed?


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Maybe the splitter isn't wired correctly?


How could I check that?

EDIT - Also anyone have any suggestions on some good LED lights? My case looks a bit depressing when I look in the window since its all dark.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Maybe the splitter isn't wired correctly?


That's what I'm thinking. PM me and I'll give you instructions on how to get it replaced.


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> How could I check that?
> 
> EDIT - Also anyone have any suggestions on some good LED lights? My case looks a bit depressing when I look in the window since its all dark.


I wanted this as well and I found that all those LED strips for PC usage, like the Bitfenix Alchemy and NZXT LED sleeve are huuuuuuugely overpriced..

I bought 4x 50CM of Blue SMD LED strip (120 LED's per meter, 12v, cuttable every 3 LED's, self-adhesive backside) for €3.95 each and soldered a buncha female Molex's to them from old fan splitters and some speaker wire. Works perfectly fine and it's SO bright my entire room lights up blue









So, if you know how to solder (i'm educated in electronics so..) then i'd suggest building some yourself from some random 12v strips.

EDIT: Have a look here. I'm not from the US but this seems like a proper store with a good assortment.

http://usledsupply.com/shop/led-rope-lights/single-color-flex-strips.html

They sell strips at $6.00 per foot. Little more expensive then I had here but still, MICH cheaper then the $30+ for the Bitfenix / NZXT which has less LED's per foot to begin with.


----------



## gdubc

These are what I recently bought:

You can get them here.
On the vengeance c70 thread on post 4672 Buehlar shows them off pretty good. He recommended them. You might have seen them in his mod of the month entry last month.
I havent gotten it installed yet but it's nice that they don't take up a bay. I have two nzxt hue kits, one installed and one I was going to use until I got the ones Buehlar recommended. They are twice the length of the hue ones also.
Plus they are only like $20.

Here are some pics of my splitter. I sadly havent had time to install my h220 so it is unused but as long as mine is right you can
see if yours matches.


Sorry for the crappy cell pics but hopefully they will help!


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> These are what I recently bought:
> 
> You can get them here.
> On the vengeance c70 thread on post 4672 Buehlar shows them off pretty good. He recommended them. You might have seen them in his mod of the month entry last month.
> I havent gotten it installed yet but it's nice that they don't take up a bay. I have two nzxt hue kits, one installed and one I was going to use until I got the ones Buehlar recommended. They are twice the length of the hue ones also.
> Plus they are only like $20.
> 
> Here are some pics of my splitter. I sadly havent had time to install my h220 so it is unused but as long as mine is right you can
> see if yours matches.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crappy cell pics but hopefully they will help!


Awesome. And yep, it looks like the wiring is off (I think). I think the two wires running into the 4-pin connector are on the far right as opposed to the far left in your picture. I appreciate you taking the time toi snap the pictures and provide a recommendation on LED lights to use.


----------



## MojoW

Build in my H320 last night, and i'm pretty happy with the results after some testing.
Big temp drops coming from a H80.
My 4770k was doing 4.2 on 1.23v with max temps of 82c on the H80
Now it's on 4.5 with 1.275 with max temps of 70c so gotta love it.
No problems installing or strange sounds coming from the pump.
I did find a pack of gummi bears in the box upon opening but it was past it's expiration date


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Awesome. And yep, it looks like the wiring is off (I think). I think the two wires running into the 4-pin connector are on the far right as opposed to the far left in your picture. I appreciate you taking the time toi snap the pictures and provide a recommendation on LED lights to use.


mm connector looks fine (not sure if the wires are switched) but they're filling the proper positions. The two ridges at the top of the white connector indicate the normal "3 pin" position/clip. The current wire position shows that it's farthest from the normal 3 pin position if that makes sense.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> mm connector looks fine (not sure if the wires are switched) but they're filling the proper positions. The two ridges at the top of the white connector indicate the normal "3 pin" position/clip. The current wire position shows that it's farthest from the normal 3 pin position if that makes sense.


I believe SleazyC was saying that his wires are different than the ones the other gdubc posted.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> How could I check that?
> 
> EDIT - Also anyone have any suggestions on some good LED lights? My case looks a bit depressing when I look in the window since its all dark.


Mine are similiar I use the phobya rgb led kit, no cutting neccesary but they pricier. led strips sold seperately. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14108/lit-294/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_RGB_Controller_With_IR-Remote_83156.html?id=HXymoHiL&mv_pc=302
The c70 has a nice little spot in front for the remote sensor in the top row of honeycomb in the grill


----------



## gdubc

+rep on that c70 tip for the sensor as I am sure my kid will want my kit for his c70...he saw the package and was already asking...I always lose my goodies.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I wanted this as well and I found that all those LED strips for PC usage, like the Bitfenix Alchemy and NZXT LED sleeve are huuuuuuugely overpriced..
> 
> I bought 4x 50CM of Blue SMD LED strip (120 LED's per meter, 12v, cuttable every 3 LED's, self-adhesive backside) for €3.95 each and soldered a buncha female Molex's to them from old fan splitters and some speaker wire. Works perfectly fine and it's SO bright my entire room lights up blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if you know how to solder (i'm educated in electronics so..) then i'd suggest building some yourself from some random 12v strips.
> 
> EDIT: Have a look here. I'm not from the US but this seems like a proper store with a good assortment.
> 
> http://usledsupply.com/shop/led-rope-lights/single-color-flex-strips.html
> 
> They sell strips at $6.00 per foot. Little more expensive then I had here but still, MICH cheaper then the $30+ for the Bitfenix / NZXT which has less LED's per foot to begin with.


heres another http://www.modelersbrand.com/


----------



## kikibgd

ok best i could do with pump noise,

drained filtered refilled till the end, used also things in OP not so much help


----------



## SleazyC

How do you guys connect these LED strips to the PSU? Do they have molex connectors or would I need to buy some type of adapter?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> ok best i could do with pump noise,
> 
> drained filtered refilled till the end, used also things in OP not so much help


We have the same issue and it even sounds the same aside from the water trickle

I tried tilting the case side by and front to back and to no avail.. I cannot get the radiator out yet. I also tried lowering the pump speed, lowering the pump speed down to 55% reduces the noise to where it was before I had this issue. Is this trapped air or a sign of a defective pump ?

If I leave it running at 100% with this noise will it damage the pump in a long term?
Sending this back for RMA would cost me quite a lot of money








Quote:


> http://www.mediafire.com/download/gpvta1bsem1i0ll/Pump_Noise.m4a


Uploaded a recording of the pump noise


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> How do you guys connect these LED strips to the PSU? Do they have molex connectors or would I need to buy some type of adapter?


I have LED's in my case, though they are different, they have a molex connector.


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> We have the same issue and it even sounds the same aside from the water trickle
> 
> I tried tilting the case side by and front to back and to no avail.. I cannot get the radiator out yet. I also tried lowering the pump speed, lowering the pump speed down to 55% reduces the noise to where it was before I had this issue. Is this trapped air or a sign of a defective pump ?
> 
> If I leave it running at 100% with this noise will it damage the pump in a long term?
> Sending this back for RMA would cost me quite a lot of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded a recording of the pump noise


i already spent over 50e sending 2x to rma + tubing + water + time...

i drained the water few times filtered and same noise, once it was quiet for 10min and then back again

i believe yes over time it can damage the pump
this is what came out of the pump when i flushed it


----------



## EarlZ

Thats sad to hear... Its gonna cost me about $20 to return this back to the point of purchase and for it to be sent back


----------



## kingduqc

*Sigh*

I knew I would have trouble with the pump...






So my pump started doing this exact same noise, at first it was only in start up and when I used speedfan and changed the speed of the pump the noise stopped, but not it do it all the time. I've found a way to fix it momentarily by forcing the pump to be at 100% for a minute or so and then slow it down to normal speed and everything sound normally for the next hours or so.

What are the RMA procedure exactly?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> *Sigh*
> 
> I knew I would have trouble with the pump...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my pump started doing this exact same noise, at first it was only in start up and when I used speedfan and changed the speed of the pump the noise stopped, but not it do it all the time. I've found a way to fix it momentarily by forcing the pump to be at 100% for a minute or so and then slow it down to normal speed and everything sound normally for the next hours or so.
> 
> What are the RMA procedure exactly?


If you have this noise, and it goes away, then it's definitely air. If it was mechanical the noise wouldn't go away. Please try the instructions in the OP. If those don't work you can also try running the pump with the fill-port cap removed. Just be sure to have some paper towels handy when you remove the cap, in case any fluid drips out. Once the pump quiets down you'll need to top it off with a little distilled water. This is why your noise keeps coming back. The air bubble get pushed out and then sucked back into the pump.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thats sad to hear... Its gonna cost me about $20 to return this back to the point of purchase and for it to be sent back


If you have problem, directly with Swiftech. Are you within US/Canada?


----------



## michael-ocn

Hmmm... so could adding an additional reservoir with a larger air trap help to resolve some of these pump noise issues, at least for those issues due to air getting in there?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you have this noise, and it goes away, then it's definitely air. If it was mechanical the noise wouldn't go away. Please try the instructions in the OP. If those don't work you can also try running the pump with the fill-port cap removed. Just be sure to have some paper towels handy when you remove the cap, in case any fluid drips out. Once the pump quiets down you'll need to top it off with a little distilled water. This is why your noise keeps coming back. The air bubble get pushed out and then sucked back into the pump.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hmmm... so could adding an additional reservoir with a larger air trap help to resolve some of these pump noise issues, at least for those issues due to air getting in there?


Yes it can. And the closer it is to being topped off, the longer the intervals are before topping off is needed again.


----------



## francisco9751

hi everybody,i want to buy a H220..is complicated add a radiator and a wb for vga???if i want to connect 2 vga..is the pump enough??obviusly if i add 2 VGA,i will add another radiator 240 lengh 600 centimetres..i'am buying a corsair 350D


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kingduqc*
> 
> *Sigh*
> 
> I knew I would have trouble with the pump...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my pump started doing this exact same noise, at first it was only in start up and when I used speedfan and changed the speed of the pump the noise stopped, but not it do it all the time. I've found a way to fix it momentarily by forcing the pump to be at 100% for a minute or so and then slow it down to normal speed and everything sound normally for the next hours or so.
> 
> What are the RMA procedure exactly?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have this noise, and it goes away, then it's definitely air. If it was mechanical the noise wouldn't go away. Please try the instructions in the OP. If those don't work you can also try running the pump with the fill-port cap removed. Just be sure to have some paper towels handy when you remove the cap, in case any fluid drips out. Once the pump quiets down you'll need to top it off with a little distilled water. This is why your noise keeps coming back. The air bubble get pushed out and then sucked back into the pump.
Click to expand...

In my case if I lower the pump speed down to 55% its as 'silent' as it used to be but it gets a lot noisier at 100% almost instantly, is that air or mechanical issue?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thats sad to hear... Its gonna cost me about $20 to return this back to the point of purchase and for it to be sent back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have problem, directly with Swiftech. Are you within US/Canada?
Click to expand...

No, Philippines. I bought it form the official product distributor which Bram also gave me his contact #.

I'll try to see what I can do to fix the problem with out sending it back, if I do send it back I probably may need to wait for the revised pump.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> In my case if I lower the pump speed down to 55% its as 'silent' as it used to be but it gets a lot noisier at 100% almost instantly, is that air or mechanical issue?
> No, Philippines. I bought it form the official product distributor which Bram also gave me his contact #.
> 
> I'll try to see what I can do to fix the problem with out sending it back, if I do send it back I probably may need to wait for the revised pump.


sounds to me like it's likely a revision 1 impeller giving you a hard time with the air bubbles. The new impellers have 3 holes, each larger than the 1 on the original impeller, to allow air to escape the pump much easier.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> hi everybody,i want to buy a H220..is complicated add a radiator and a wb for vga???if i want to connect 2 vga..is the pump enough??obviusly if i add 2 VGA,i will add another radiator 240 lengh 600 centimetres..i'am buying a corsair 350D


yes assuming you put the gpu blocks in parallel


----------



## francisco9751

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes assuming you put the gpu blocks in parallel


obviusly..thank you..tomorrow i'll order the H220..i pay it 150€..


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> How do you guys connect these LED strips to the PSU? Do they have molex connectors or would I need to buy some type of adapter?


The one I linked has a control box that is just a
12v input. You can buy it with a wall adapter as well, but Im just going to hook to my psu. It is just two wires, a 12v and a ground.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> obviusly..thank you..tomorrow i'll order the H220..i pay it 150€..


It's a pretty strong pump from what Gabe and others have said. Def the strongest in the AIO coolers...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> In my case if I lower the pump speed down to 55% its as 'silent' as it used to be but it gets a lot noisier at 100% almost instantly, is that air or mechanical issue?


Try running the pump with the fill-port cap on your radiator removed. You'll need to run it this way at full speed for about a half an hour or so. Also make sure to top your radiator off with distilled water once the bubble travels out of your reservoir. This will prevent it from becoming noisy again.

Let me know if this helps.


----------



## michael-ocn

Is the idea here that there's more air in the system than can be trapped in the res... so leave the port open so when the excess air arrives, it can leave thru the open port instead of being sucked down for another trip thru the loop?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Try running the pump with the fill-port cap on your radiator removed. You'll need to run it this way at full speed for about a half an hour or so. Also make sure to top your radiator off with distilled water once the bubble travels out of your reservoir. This will prevent it from becoming noisy again.
> 
> Let me know if this helps.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> In my case if I lower the pump speed down to 55% its as 'silent' as it used to be but it gets a lot noisier at 100% almost instantly, is that air or mechanical issue?
> 
> 
> 
> Try running the pump with the fill-port cap on your radiator removed. You'll need to run it this way at full speed for about a half an hour or so. Also make sure to top your radiator off with distilled water once the bubble travels out of your reservoir. This will prevent it from becoming noisy again.
> 
> Let me know if this helps.
Click to expand...

I'll see when i can do that. So the audio sample i upload clearly sounds that it is air?


----------



## selk22

I am very happy to say after receiving the "new" pump design with my RMA'd unit all my pump issues have been resolved and the h220 is performing extremely silently even at load. Thanks for working hard to resolve the issue Swiftech







The pump is even more silent than the new unit I had previously received. Thanks again for the great customer support, I can now finally expand this bad boy!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I'll see when i can do that. So the audio sample i upload clearly sounds that it is air?


Yes, to me it sounds like air in your pump.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I'll see when i can do that. So the audio sample i upload clearly sounds that it is air?


I've had an identical sound, was definitely air. Just takes time and effort.

I do have one tip, but it only works if using distilled water. With the pump running and res cap off, drop one tiny drop of dishwasher soap in. Almost instantly removes air.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I'll see when i can do that. So the audio sample i upload clearly sounds that it is air?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, to me it sounds like air in your pump.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I'll see when i can do that. So the audio sample i upload clearly sounds that it is air?
> 
> 
> 
> I've had an identical sound, was definitely air. Just takes time and effort.
> 
> I do have one tip, but it only works if using distilled water. With the pump running and res cap off, drop one tiny drop of dishwasher soap in. Almost instantly removes air.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation and tip, I dont have the time ( and probably the knowledge/skill ) to flush the loop and use all distilled water but for removing the cap I might be able to do so on the weekend.

The coolant that comes stock with the H220 is also distilled?


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I've had an identical sound, was definitely air. Just takes time and effort.
> 
> I do have one tip, but it only works if using distilled water. With the pump running and res cap off, drop one tiny drop of dishwasher soap in. Almost instantly removes air.


anyone tried this?


----------



## EarlZ

I now have the fill cap open and placed the radiator on top of my case with lots of towels, I still have the block connected to the CPU while running at full speed.
I noticed that is a lot of black tiny particles floating and even from the bottom of the cap, is this normal ?

The liquid is pretty much at the very tip of it..


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> anyone tried this?


A drop of dishwashing liquid in distilled water? Sure. It destroys the surface tension, makes it much easier to get air bubbles out of your loop. Same effect as those overpriced "water wetter" products. Keep in mind though that a drop of dishwashing liquid even in distilled water probably will contribute a lot to algae buildup in you loop. Diluted dishwashing liquid is food for bacteria et al. So it depends on how often you clean you loop. I haven't kept a loop like that running for longer than a couple of months.

Edit: Also keep in mind that ordinary dish soap foam *a lot*. I've only used it when frustrated and tired. Would not recommend it really.


----------



## EarlZ

Its been an hour or so and no changes, I have the fill port open.. added just a few drops of distilled drinking water and tried to tilt the case / rad around.. do I need to remove it off teh CPU socket?

EDIT:

I have prime95 running small FTT, no fans on the radiator (stock speeds/volts) and I noticed that the water would slowly raise and over flow from the fill port, is that normal when heat is introduced? Its at around 88-90c and the radiator feels very hot but at the same time it also puts the pump noise to where it was for a few mins but becomes noisy again at a later time with an audible water trickle noise.

EDIT2:
After about 5hours of trying to eliminate the pump noise with no results I decided to just close the fill port and tried running prime95 to heat up the radiator/water and in about 3mins of SmallFTT the pump is very silent, RPM is still at 2900-3000 when the radiator cools down the noise returns.. anyone know what is going on ?


----------



## michael-ocn

I don't own an h220 and am not super familiar with water cooling tech, but that doesn't sound like a problem with trapped air to me?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Its been an hour or so and no changes, I have the fill port open.. added just a few drops of distilled drinking water and tried to tilt the case / rad around.. do I need to remove it off teh CPU socket?


bottled drinking water is not distilled water, just want to make sure you're aware of the difference
Quote:


> EDIT:
> 
> I have prime95 running small FTT, no fans on the radiator (stock speeds/volts) and I noticed that the water would slowly raise and over flow from the fill port, is that normal when heat is introduced? Its at around 88-90c and the radiator feels very hot but at the same time it also puts the pump noise to where it was for a few mins but becomes noisy again at a later time with an audible water trickle noise.


water expands slightly as it heats, so a rise in water levels with that much additional heat is not surprising
Quote:


> EDIT2:
> After about 5hours of trying to eliminate the pump noise with no results I decided to just close the fill port and tried running prime95 to heat up the radiator/water and in about 3mins of SmallFTT the pump is very silent, RPM is still at 2900-3000 when the radiator cools down the noise returns.. anyone know what is going on ?


just a guess, but the internal pump components will also react to high heat and the geometry changes enough to provide clearance for a spinning part that is rubbing up against another part without the presence of the heat


----------



## EarlZ

The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.

Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.
> 
> Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.


If it says "distilled water" then it should be good. Let me know if you're able to resolve your issue.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> sounds to me like it's likely a revision 1 impeller giving you a hard time with the air bubbles. The new impellers have 3 holes, each larger than the 1 on the original impeller, to allow air to escape the pump much easier.


Phelan my H320 just arrived at Vancouver port from China, after a 3 week voyage. It should be shipping to me from ncix.ca by Wednesday. Would this have the new impeller design or would it possibly be the older design???


----------



## Snyderman34

Just got my RMA in today and got it reinstalled. SO much better. All the noise is completely gone. Running it at 50% and it's nice and quiet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Phelan my H320 just arrived at Vancouver port from China, after a 3 week voyage. It should be shipping to me from ncix.ca by Wednesday. Would this have the new impeller design or would it possibly be the older design???


These should all have the latest updates to design.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Just got my RMA in today and got it reinstalled. SO much better. All the noise is completely gone. Running it at 50% and it's nice and quiet.


Glad to hear it. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.
> 
> Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.
> 
> 
> 
> If it says "distilled water" then it should be good. Let me know if you're able to resolve your issue.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately its not resolved in over 5 hours if tilting and gently shaking the rad/pc. As what someone has mentioned i might be a defective pump. Ive sent you a PM.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These should all have the latest updates to design.


Thanks for the good news.


----------



## eXXon

Bought the H220 in March, just installed it a few days ago, and it is fantastic. Zero noise cooling a 2500K @ 5GHz with 1.512v.
Temps stayed in the low 70s during Prime.

However, today morning when cold booting, temps went to the 80c just loading Windows.
Using the supplied controller with the pump in CH1, the pump reading was 0 rpm (it was 3000rpm). After several reboots its back on again.

It also happened an hour ago and refused to turn back on until I changed the location of the 4-pin plug from CH1 to the 2nd connector on the controller, then it was fine again. Did a few Cinebench runs with temps staying in the mid-to-high 50s.

Now it just happened again (temps rising fast during idle with 1600MHz speed @ 0.9v), so I just shut it down.

What does it mean? How can I prevent it from happening again?

The pump is perfectly silent when running (no grinding noise or whine) & cools amazingly so I don't think its faulty......

Cheers,


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXXon*
> 
> Bought the H220 in March, just installed it a few days ago, and it is fantastic. Zero noise cooling a 2500K @ 5GHz with 1.512v.
> Temps stayed in the low 70s during Prime.
> 
> However, today morning when cold booting, temps went to the 80c just loading Windows.
> Using the supplied controller with the pump in CH1, the pump reading was 0 rpm (it was 3000rpm). After several reboots its back on again.
> 
> It also happened an hour ago and refused to turn back on until I changed the location of the 4-pin plug from CH1 to the 2nd connector on the controller, then it was fine again. Did a few Cinebench runs with temps staying in the mid-to-high 50s.
> 
> Now it just happened again (temps rising fast during idle with 1600MHz speed @ 0.9v), so I just shut it down.
> 
> What does it mean? How can I prevent it from happening again?
> 
> The pump is perfectly silent when running (no grinding noise or whine) & cools amazingly so I don't think its faulty......
> 
> Cheers,


Please PM me and I'll help you figure this out.


----------



## eXXon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please PM me and I'll help you figure this out.


PM'ed and thanks again. Will be getting the H320 for the 3930K very soon


----------



## B3L13V3R

Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!

But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.



Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.



Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This *HAS* to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!
> 
> But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.
> 
> 
> 
> Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.
> 
> 
> 
> Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This *HAS* to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design.


Are you in the states? Mine had this issue and it was because of the original design impeller. If you have the knowledge and confidence to drain the loop and open the pump with the top 4 screws, Swiftech can send you the new impeller for the RMA to speed the process. It's really easy to replace, and is how I fixed my unit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> anyone tried this?


i dont recommend it, it is an OLD remedy from the stating days of water cooling ( IE back when you had to make your own blocks... and i have seen some cool designs )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I now have the fill cap open and placed the radiator on top of my case with lots of towels, I still have the block connected to the CPU while running at full speed.
> I noticed that is a lot of black tiny particles floating and even from the bottom of the cap, is this normal ?
> 
> The liquid is pretty much at the very tip of it..


yes it is normal for these units you can use a coffee filter to filter it there is a known filtering issue / it could also be manufacturing debris very common with any brand of pc watercooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> A drop of dishwashing liquid in distilled water? Sure. It destroys the surface tension, makes it much easier to get air bubbles out of your loop. Same effect as those overpriced "water wetter" products. Keep in mind though that a drop of dishwashing liquid even in distilled water probably will contribute a lot to algae buildup in you loop. Diluted dishwashing liquid is food for bacteria et al. So it depends on how often you clean you loop. I haven't kept a loop like that running for longer than a couple of months.
> 
> Edit: Also keep in mind that ordinary dish soap foam *a lot*. I've only used it when frustrated and tired. Would not recommend it really.


+1 not reccomended


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Its been an hour or so and no changes, I have the fill port open.. added just a few drops of distilled drinking water and tried to tilt the case / rad around.. do I need to remove it off teh CPU socket?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I have prime95 running small FTT, no fans on the radiator (stock speeds/volts) and I noticed that the water would slowly raise and over flow from the fill port, is that normal when heat is introduced? Its at around 88-90c and the radiator feels very hot but at the same time it also puts the pump noise to where it was for a few mins but becomes noisy again at a later time with an audible water trickle noise.
> 
> EDIT2:
> After about 5hours of trying to eliminate the pump noise with no results I decided to just close the fill port and tried running prime95 to heat up the radiator/water and in about 3mins of SmallFTT the pump is very silent, RPM is still at 2900-3000 when the radiator cools down the noise returns.. anyone know what is going on ?





see below it is normal water like anything expands
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I don't own an h220 and am not super familiar with water cooling tech, but that doesn't sound like a problem with trapped air to me?
> bottled drinking water is not distilled water, just want to make sure you're aware of the difference
> water expands slightly as it heats, so a rise in water levels with that much additional heat is not surprising
> just a guess, but the internal pump components will also react to high heat and the geometry changes enough to provide clearance for a spinning part that is rubbing up against another part without the presence of the heat


see below.
distilled water is made for drinking mainly health nutz lol
water expands more then you would think so yes it is normal
there are materials designed not to expand much under heat and there are ways to prevent impellers from rubbing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.
> 
> Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.


nah it probably is air


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!
> 
> But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.
> 
> 
> 
> Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.
> 
> 
> 
> Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This *HAS* to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design.






and the patent trolling is fixed. i hate patent trolls *cough cough apple *


----------



## ez12a

woah can we get pictures of the new impeller? lol interesting..

my 2nd pump is still working sort of, at minimum speed it makes a ticking noise. I wont RMA unless it gets worse or stops altogether.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you in the states? Mine had this issue and it was because of the original design impeller. If you have the knowledge and confidence to drain the loop and open the pump with the top 4 screws, Swiftech can send you the new impeller for the RMA to speed the process. It's really easy to replace, and is how I fixed my unit.


Yes I'm in the US. I have a dialog going with Brian about it. They want me to send some pics of the rad for visual inspection.

This is the second one.


----------



## EarlZ

Air or not i cant get it out and its been 5hrs of doing all the stuff. Simply not worth the time on my end especially when there is a new pump to help with this issue.


----------



## Phelan

I couldn't get the old one to show up very good in my photos, but the old one has a single hole to bleed through,while the new one has 3, all bigger than the one on the original. Also worth noting that the edges of the blades feel sharper on the new impeller.


----------



## EarlZ

Its currently at this noise level at 100%, dead silent at 50%


----------



## francisco9751

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!
> 
> But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.
> 
> 
> 
> Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.
> 
> 
> 
> Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This *HAS* to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design.


do you obtain these result only with 2 rad??very impressed















these temperature are very






























today i order my H220..i want to add a radiator 240x80mm to a 2500k @4,5GHZ and 2 [email protected]

is you CPU,overclocked??


----------



## NIK1

Who has the H320 in stock in Canada.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Hi all,
I just completed my workstation build using Swiftech's H220 to cool my 3930K. No grinding or strange noises coming from the pump...just the tinkling when it starts to let me know my pump is working. It's in a push/pull configuration using 4 Noctua's NF-F12 PWMs. When I checked the members list, I noticed that 3 members have the i7-3930K [and only 1 with basically the same mobo as me]...what I'm concerned about are the temps. Presently, my idles are in the mid-30s with the a/c on...and in the low 40s with it off. But are those posted load temps normal, or rather high? Seems to me that this cooler should produce lower numbers...correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to think I need to replace my cooler already!!! Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hi all,
> I just completed my workstation build using Swiftech's H220 to cool my 3930K. No grinding or strange noises coming from the pump...just the tinkling when it starts to let me know my pump is working. It's in a push/pull configuration using 4 Noctua's NF-F12 PWMs. When I checked the members list, I noticed that 3 members have the i7-3930K [and only 1 with basically the same mobo as me]...what I'm concerned about are the temps. Presently, my idles are in the mid-30s with the a/c on...and in the low 40s with it off. But are those posted load temps normal, or rather high? Seems to me that this cooler should produce lower numbers...correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to think I need to replace my cooler already!!! Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


What are your load temps and your ambient temperature? And also remember that these chips do vary quite a bit in terms of heat production.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hi all,
> I just completed my workstation build using Swiftech's H220 to cool my 3930K. No grinding or strange noises coming from the pump...just the tinkling when it starts to let me know my pump is working. It's in a push/pull configuration using 4 Noctua's NF-F12 PWMs. When I checked the members list, I noticed that 3 members have the i7-3930K [and only 1 with basically the same mobo as me]...what I'm concerned about are the temps. Presently, my idles are in the mid-30s with the a/c on...and in the low 40s with it off. But are those posted load temps normal, or rather high? Seems to me that this cooler should produce lower numbers...correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to think I need to replace my cooler already!!! Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


The H220 fans you use are not mounted correctly. All 4 fans are in pull?

First image is the NF-F12 the second on is not the NF-F12, those is the NF-P12. Mixing is not good with both those fans.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The H220 fans you use are not mounted correctly. All 4 fans are in pull?
> 
> First image is the NF-F12 the second on is not the NF-F12, those is the NF-P12. Mixing is not good with both those fans.


Good job! I didn't notice that. It does look like they are all set to pull.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The H220 fans you use are not mounted correctly. All 4 fans are in pull?
> 
> First image is the NF-F12 the second on is not the NF-F12, those is the NF-P12. Mixing is not good with both those fans.


Is it bad to mix the NF-F12 on top of the radiator in push with the included helix fans on the bottom of the radiator in pull?

This is currently my setup and I idle at about 30C and have load temps of 60C (when running synthetics) running a 4770k @ 4.3GHz/1.25vcore


----------



## GingertronMk1

One of the sets of fans will restrict the airflow of the other, and the different RPMs and weights of bits of the fans cause weird vibrations. Have you tried taking either set off and seeing what temps result?


----------



## Nilsom

hello

unfortunately my H220 died
Bacata to follow tomorrow in France.

Thank you all for the help


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Whoops...wrong photo....

There are 4 F12s working as intake and 1 P12...which is drawing air onto the mobo and cooling the rear components. Also, haven't done a load test yet...will do that as soon as I close up my case [give me 20mins]. As soon as I have those numbers, I'll post...but isn't 70+ rather high...even with the variances in chips?

~old AMD new 2 Intel


----------



## Gabrielzm

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="oldAMDnew2Intel" url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-owners-club/6240#post_20693828"]Whoops...wrong photo....

There are 4 F12s working as intake and 1 P12...which is drawing air onto the mobo and cooling the rear components. Also, haven't done a load test yet...will do that as soon as I close up my case [give me 20mins]. As soon as I have those numbers, I'll post...but isn't 70+ rather high...even with the variances in chips?

~Kat[/quote]



Depends on several factors...external temperature, chip, voltage / OC and how you are reading your temps. Are you using coretemp or HWinfo? Is your chip OCed? If yes at what clock and voltage? Under stress what are you using? Prime95 blend test?

When I was using the h220 my 3930k at 4.4 ghz and 1.35v was reaching 75 degrees under prime just to give you one example...


----------



## Nilsom

the high temps this bro

I wore with 4.5 1.32Vcore
and the temps do not exceed 69 degrees in prime95


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> the high temps this bro
> 
> I wore with 4.5 1.32Vcore
> and the temps do not exceed 69 degrees in prime95


That's a lower Vcore than Gabriel reported and that's most likely why your temps are also lower. Some chips need a higher voltage to reach the same overclock. The silicone lottery can really be a PITA. Also keep in mind that other factors like your ambient temperature and case airflow can also make a difference.


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's a lower Vcore than Gabriel reported and that's most likely why your temps are also lower. Some chips need a higher voltage to reach the same overclock. The silicone lottery can really be a PITA. Also keep in mind that other factors like your ambient temperature and case airflow can also make a difference.


yes it's true friend


----------



## eXXon

I have to say, In less than 24 hours, Bryan/Swiftech have arranged the new impeller for shipment to my location & also provided detailed instructions on how to replace it.
(Only reason it took that long is because I was asleep half the day & didn't provide the shipping address).

Replying within minutes of receiving an email or PM, there is no bureaucracy drama of a big company.

I hope Swiftech & its team get the credit they deserve in these forums cause they simply are one of the best out there.

Go Swiftech


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Is it bad to mix the NF-F12 on top of the radiator in push with the included helix fans on the bottom of the radiator in pull?
> 
> This is currently my setup and I idle at about 30C and have load temps of 60C (when running synthetics) running a 4770k @ 4.3GHz/1.25vcore


Posted the wrong picture...there are no Helix fans in my case any more. I've gone from an exhaust to an intake configuration [push/pull]...and all 4 fans are indeed noctuas's NF-F12 PWMs.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What are your load temps and your ambient temperature? And also remember that these chips do vary quite a bit in terms of heat production.


After Running Prime95 at stock my temps didn't get any higher than 63c with ambient temp of 22c....OK...now ready to oc


----------



## ivanlabrie

Guys, anyone knows where to get an H320 these days?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

So I just added more distilled water to fix the air bubbles in my loop, but now my pump when at 50%+ is incredibly, incredibly loud and annoying. Sounds like just putting the tip of a piece of paper to a really fast fan. Best way to describe the noise. Should I be concerned? And/or need an RMA? Since this is already my second unit... I love the product performance cooling wise, but I keep having trouble left and right out of them.

EDIT: Make that 40%+ fans now
EDIT2: 25%+ now. RMA Time?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hi all,
> I just completed my workstation build using Swiftech's H220 to cool my 3930K. No grinding or strange noises coming from the pump...just the tinkling when it starts to let me know my pump is working. It's in a push/pull configuration using 4 Noctua's NF-F12 PWMs. When I checked the members list, I noticed that 3 members have the i7-3930K [and only 1 with basically the same mobo as me]...what I'm concerned about are the temps. Presently, my idles are in the mid-30s with the a/c on...and in the low 40s with it off. But are those posted load temps normal, or rather high? Seems to me that this cooler should produce lower numbers...correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to think I need to replace my cooler already!!! Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


I have the h220 and 3930k, I have it OC to 4.6 at 1.32 and C states on. My idle temps are around 30-35c with ambient temp of 25c. At night time my Idle temps drop down to 28c. The 3930k is a beast of a processor, I also use mx-4 TIM which helps with a few degrees. Load temps are around 65-69c depending on how long it runs for. I am not sure how familiar you are with x79 but it is a much hotter chip than most but can also take a fair amount of heat, IMO unsafe temps are once your reaching 82+

Hope this helps


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So I just added more distilled water to fix the air bubbles in my loop, but now my pump when at 50%+ is incredibly, incredibly loud and annoying. Sounds like just putting the tip of a piece of paper to a really fast fan. Best way to describe the noise. Should I be concerned? And/or need an RMA? Since this is already my second unit... I love the product performance cooling wise, but I keep having trouble left and right out of them.
> 
> EDIT: Make that 40%+ fans now
> EDIT2: 25%+ now. RMA Time?


Please PM me and I'll give you some options on how to get this resolved. Don't worry about it though. It will get resolved one way or another.


----------



## bond32

Selling my h220. PM me for details. Comes with everything including the box and 2 meters of new black tubing.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I have the h220 and 3930k, I have it OC to 4.6 at 1.32 and C states on. My idle temps are around 30-35c with ambient temp of 25c. At night time my Idle temps drop down to 28c. The 3930k is a beast of a processor, I also use mx-4 TIM which helps with a few degrees. Load temps are around 65-69c depending on how long it runs for. I am not sure how familiar you are with x79 but it is a much hotter chip than most but can also take a fair amount of heat, IMO unsafe temps are once your reaching 82+
> 
> Hope this helps


Thanks Selk22. In fact, that helped a lot. I used artic's Céramique 2...but I have mx-4 in my trusty supply box, so if I can't oc to at least 4.5 without experiencing excessive heat, I'll keep the Céramique™ 2...but if it starts spiking, I'll change to the mx-4. As to my ambient temp, it's 21c in my study...I really need to warm it up a bit--I'm freezing in there. I'll be doing another stress test later tonight [or maybe tomorrow] without the ac and see what my temps are before I start oc'ing.

Again thanks for the info
~Kat


----------



## IBIubbleTea

Not sure about this but...

I really want to get a H220 but where can I buy it in Canada?

Hugs and Bubbles. <3


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Thanks Selk22. In fact, that helped a lot. I used artic's Céramique 2...but I have mx-4 in my trusty supply box, so if I can't oc to at least 4.5 without experiencing excessive heat, I'll keep the Céramique™ 2...but if it starts spiking, I'll change to the mx-4. As to my ambient temp, it's 21c in my study...I really need to warm it up a bit--I'm freezing in there. I'll be doing another stress test later tonight [or maybe tomorrow] without the ac and see what my temps are before I start oc'ing.
> 
> Again thanks for the info
> ~Kat


I am happy to help anytime







If you have more questions about x79 and the h220 let me know..

Me I am keeping it at 4.6 for summer because my house is actually much hotter then id like, I cant wait for those nice winter temps and big OC's


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IBIubbleTea*
> 
> Not sure about this but...
> 
> I really want to get a H220 but where can I buy it in Canada?
> 
> Hugs and Bubbles. <3


Bond32 posted they were selling theirs, and then Overclock.co.uk and NCIX both report to having them in stock
Hope you find one...they can be elusive


----------



## Phelan

If in Canada, buy one from a retailer, since the shipping cost to buy a used one from the states would negate the savings, and Swiftech's warrantee is non-transferable (for initial purchaser only).


----------



## brendandesouza

hey guys, I'm planning on getting this cooler and I was wondering if it fit in the Fractal R4 (on the top) together with a z87 g45 MSI motherboard.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Bond32 posted they were selling theirs, and then Overclock.co.uk and NCIX both report to having them in stock
> Hope you find one...they can be elusive


Incorrect my friend. ncix.ca has it not ncix.com which is a US website


----------



## EarlZ

Already sent my kit for RMA, hopefully the replacement wont have any issues.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Incorrect my friend. ncix.ca has it not ncix.com which is a US website


incorrect .ca = Canada


----------



## dajez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> Build in my H320 last night, and i'm pretty happy with the results after some testing.
> Big temp drops coming from a H80.
> My 4770k was doing 4.2 on 1.23v with max temps of 82c on the H80
> Now it's on 4.5 with 1.275 with max temps of 70c so gotta love it.
> No problems installing or strange sounds coming from the pump.
> I did find a pack of gummi bears in the box upon opening but it was past it's expiration date


i guess u bought it at highflow.nl?


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Incorrect my friend. ncix.ca has it not ncix.com which is a US website


Not to quibble, but if you clicked on the NCIX link, you'd see it is to NCIX.ca [Canada] site. Just thought that since the post was asking about where to obtain H220s in Canada, it would be obvious NCIX was the Canadian link...but thanks for trying to keep me on my toes...sometimes I do lose my balance.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I couldn't get the old one to show up very good in my photos, but the old one has a single hole to bleed through,while the new one has 3, all bigger than the one on the original. Also worth noting that the edges of the blades feel sharper on the new impeller.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for that... This is good info.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> do you obtain these result only with 2 rad??very impressed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these temperature are very
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> today i order my H220..i want to add a radiator 240x80mm to a 2500k @4,5GHZ and 2 [email protected]
> 
> is you CPU,overclocked??


Yes, 2 rads... H220 rad in top push only (probably not the best setup for this case) + Swiftech High performance 120 in push / pull - I haven't tried different TIM on this H220 block.

And yes, 3820 @ 4.4 and +185 / +295 on ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header. These waterblocks are part of the reason though. They are really nice, but took about a month for the TIM to really settle in it seems. I used the Gelid Extreme that EK now provides with the GPU waterblocks.

Hopefully that helps.


----------



## francisco9751

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Yes, 2 rads... H220 rad in top push only (probably not the best setup for this case) + Swiftech High performance 120 in push / pull - I haven't tried different TIM on this H220 block.
> 
> And yes, 3820 @ 4.4 and +185 / +295 on ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header. These waterblocks are part of the reason though. They are really nice, but took about a month for the TIM to really settle in it seems. I used the Gelid Extreme that EK now provides with the GPU waterblocks.
> 
> Hopefully that helps.


thank you..and the others fan..do you connect where??


----------



## Ragsters

Just got word that that Ncix.ca is now carrying the H320.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> thank you..and the others fan..do you connect where??


Voltage controlled with software based on CPU temp for now. I don't like manually managing fans.


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Just got my tracking info from NCIX for my H320 ^.^ Should be here by ~Tuesday


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Voltage controlled with software based on CPU temp for now. I don't like manually managing fans.


I don't like relying on software to control fan speeds. For that reason, i'm not such a fan of speedfan personally. I like having the BIOS do it w/o the need for any for of system daemon installed and loaded and running in the background. I've got a pwm fan on the radiator that's controlled by the CPU_FAN header on my mobo, and two other 3pin case fans on CHA_FAN1 and 2 headers. My BIOS has presets for each of those headers that work out pretty well.

* CPU_FAN ramps from 20% at 30c to 100% at 60c
* CHA_FANs ramp from 7v at 50c to 12v at 70c

I sometimes peg the CHA_FANs at 12v if i'm playing an intense game or running stressful benches/tests. Also sometimes use a more aggressive CPU_FAN ramp that goes from 20% at 20c to 100% at 50c. I can change the BIOS presets easily from within windows with utility software for my asus mobo (fanxpert), and then just shut the software down with nothing left running in the background.

Also, I have an asetek clc pump on the SYS_FAN header that's always powered at 100%.

If i had more fans or pumps to deal with, i'd have to get more creative with splitters and such... but i like the mobo BIOS based controls for this stuff in general. The RPM sensor reading show up in HWMonitor which is nice (well one of the case fans doesn't cuz its busted for some reason, but its identical siblings spin rate does).

To each his own with fan control and monitoring


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I don't like relying on software to control fan speeds. For that reason, i'm not such a fan of speedfan personally. I like having the BIOS do it w/o the need for any for of system daemon installed and loaded and running in the background. I've got a pwm fan on the radiator that's controlled by the CPU_FAN header on my mobo, and two other 3pin case fans on CHA_FAN1 and 2 headers. My BIOS has presets for each of those headers that work out pretty well.
> 
> * CPU_FAN ramps from 20% at 30c to 100% at 60c
> * CHA_FANs ramp from 7v at 50c to 12v at 70c
> 
> I sometimes peg the CHA_FANs at 12v if i'm playing an intense game or running stressful benches/tests. Also sometimes use a more aggressive CPU_FAN ramp that goes from 20% at 20c to 100% at 50c. I can change the BIOS presets easily from within windows with utility software for my asus mobo (fanxpert), and then just shut the software down with nothing left running in the background.
> 
> Also, I have an asetek clc pump on the SYS_FAN header that's always powered at 100%.
> 
> If i had more fans or pumps to deal with, i'd have to get more creative with splitters and such... but i like the mobo BIOS based controls for this stuff in general. The RPM sensor reading show up in HWMonitor which is nice (well one of the case fans doesn't cuz its busted for some reason, but its identical siblings spin rate does).
> 
> To each his own with fan control and monitoring


Yeah that's all good for sure. I don't have a pile of fans to deal with either, so software works for now and it works really well. I will most certainly move to BIOS control when I need to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I don't like relying on software to control fan speeds. For that reason, i'm not such a fan of speedfan personally. I like having the BIOS do it w/o the need for any for of system daemon installed and loaded and running in the background. I've got a pwm fan on the radiator that's controlled by the CPU_FAN header on my mobo, and two other 3pin case fans on CHA_FAN1 and 2 headers. My BIOS has presets for each of those headers that work out pretty well.
> 
> * CPU_FAN ramps from 20% at 30c to 100% at 60c
> * CHA_FANs ramp from 7v at 50c to 12v at 70c
> 
> I sometimes peg the CHA_FANs at 12v if i'm playing an intense game or running stressful benches/tests. Also sometimes use a more aggressive CPU_FAN ramp that goes from 20% at 20c to 100% at 50c. I can change the BIOS presets easily from within windows with utility software for my asus mobo (fanxpert), and then just shut the software down with nothing left running in the background.
> 
> Also, I have an asetek clc pump on the SYS_FAN header that's always powered at 100%.
> 
> If i had more fans or pumps to deal with, i'd have to get more creative with splitters and such... but i like the mobo BIOS based controls for this stuff in general. The RPM sensor reading show up in HWMonitor which is nice (well one of the case fans doesn't cuz its busted for some reason, but its identical siblings spin rate does).
> 
> To each his own with fan control and monitoring


or buy an aquaero !~ has its own cpu


----------



## michael-ocn

Yea, I guess when enough is never enough, there's always more then enough to be had







You can use the aquasuiteSDK to write your own daemons, using Visual Basic.NET if you like!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or buy an aquaero !~ has its own cpu


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or buy an aquaero !~ has its own cpu


Yeah maybe someday.


----------



## skillzdude

Hi guys!

I am considering a h220 but I am worried about pump issues. Is it really that common?

Thanks in advance!

-skillzdude


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I
> I sometimes peg the CHA_FANs at 12v if i'm playing an intense game or running stressful benches/tests. Also sometimes use a more aggressive CPU_FAN ramp that goes from 20% at 20c to 100% at 50c. I can change the BIOS presets easily from within windows with utility software for my asus mobo (fanxpert), and then just shut the software down with nothing left running in the background.


So you don't have AsusFanControlService running as a system service ?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skillzdude*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I am considering a h220 but I am worried about pump issues. Is it really that common?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -skillzdude


Looks like it until you get the revised impeller..


----------



## selk22

Well I am rather disappointed.. My initial purchase of the h220 was DOA from coolerguys.com, my RMA unit ran smoothly until I ran into the air in the pump problem which on my pump seems incurable by all suggested means. Now I received a 2nd RMA unit from swiftech with the new pump design and it ran extremely quietly for 3-4 days before I moved my PC to another part of the house (I was very gentle by the way.) Then turned on the PC and got CPU fan error. The pump had died. Not sure why or how this happened. I connected by all possible means. I reinstalled the old h220 which I was going to send off tomorrow, and it is working great but still has a terrible pump noise. I don't know what to do about this.. Id really like to support this great product but my luck seems terrible. I hope another RMA will go through and I will one day enjoy the joys of an expanded h220


----------



## speedytech7

Hello Everybody,
My H220 has started to make a lovely clicking/grinding noise when at higher RPMs, it is really aggravating when my system is otherwise silent. I heard this pump is just supposed to hum when running normally so I was hoping I could have caught this early and perhaps it could be fixed. Anyway I made a video of the noise happening... can someone tell me if this is normal or if I have to go through the trouble of RMAing, my unit? Really hoping it is something I can just fix.













That other noise that occurs during the clicking the pump is making is from another case fan I have. Just BTW


----------



## mm67

delete


----------



## skillzdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Looks like it until you get the revised impeller..


Do you have this issue? Thanks for the reply!


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skillzdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Looks like it until you get the revised impeller..
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have this issue? Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...

Yes, I had to send it back to RMA. Hopefully the replacement unit will be perfect else this kit is costing me a lot of money.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hi all,
> I just completed my workstation build using Swiftech's H220 to cool my 3930K. No grinding or strange noises coming from the pump...just the tinkling when it starts to let me know my pump is working. It's in a push/pull configuration using 4 Noctua's NF-F12 PWMs. When I checked the members list, I noticed that 3 members have the i7-3930K [and only 1 with basically the same mobo as me]...what I'm concerned about are the temps. Presently, my idles are in the mid-30s with the a/c on...and in the low 40s with it off. But are those posted load temps normal, or rather high? Seems to me that this cooler should produce lower numbers...correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to think I need to replace my cooler already!!! Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


I also have a 3930k on the h220 unit. Im getting idle temps in the mid 30s and reach 90C on load (4.7GHz @ 1.3V). Ive recently added 2 gpus to the loop + 2 x 240mm rads (ut60) and cpu temps reaches 90C during the first 10 seconds of intel burn test and prime 95

Someone mentionned earlier that the cpu block from h220 doesnt have the best contact compared to 1155 sockets.


----------



## passinos

You seem to have enough RAD surface with the H220 and 2x 240's. What are your GPU temps?

My H220 just shipped from NCIX canada. Started loop on 3770k then adding a 280mm and my 7970's CF. I hope a the 240mm H220 + 280mm will be enough.


----------



## marc0053

gpu temps go up to 55C (2 Titans at 1.2V and 1201MHz)


----------



## michael-ocn

Nope, i sure do not!

I have AI suite installed but mostly disabled since the only thing i wanted was a way to change the fan profile BIOS settings from the desktop.
* AsSysCtrlService is disabled in the windows Services control panel
* QFanHelper.exe is disabled as a startup item in msconifig.exe
* AsRegRunLoader task is disabled the Task Scheduler

I spent an afternoon turning that glopware off. There is still a small wart that is loads in the background when i run QFan3.exe and it does not exit when i exit QFan3.exe, but near as i can tell it's not engaged in active fan speed control. The aaCenter.exe process lurks in the background but takes very little memory and no cpu time outside of when i run QFan3 in the foreground.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> So you don't have AsusFanControlService running as a system service ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedytech7*
> 
> Hello Everybody,
> My H220 has started to make a lovely clicking/grinding noise when at higher RPMs, it is really aggravating when my system is otherwise silent. I heard this pump is just supposed to hum when running normally so I was hoping I could have caught this early and perhaps it could be fixed. Anyway I made a video of the noise happening... can someone tell me if this is normal or if I have to go through the trouble of RMAing, my unit? Really hoping it is something I can just fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That other noise that occurs during the clicking the pump is making is from another case fan I have. Just BTW


Please PM me. I think I've got a solution for this.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Nope, i sure do not!
> 
> I have AI suite installed but mostly disabled since the only thing i wanted was a way to change the fan profile BIOS settings from the desktop.
> * AsSysCtrlService is disabled in the windows Services control panel
> * QFanHelper.exe is disabled as a startup item in msconifig.exe
> * AsRegRunLoader task is disabled the Task Scheduler
> 
> I spent an afternoon turning that glopware off. There is still a small wart that is loads in the background when i run QFan3.exe and it does not exit when i exit QFan3.exe, but near as i can tell it's not engaged in active fan speed control. The aaCenter.exe process lurks in the background but takes very little memory and no cpu time outside of when i run QFan3 in the foreground.


Those names don't sound familiar, you are probably using a different version. I use Fan Xpert2 with Maximus V Gene board.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Looks like it until you get the revised impeller..


Actually it still isn't THAT common. Keep in mind that there are thousands of these units made already, and most of the people having problems have been sent here, hence the large amount of problems posted here.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Those names don't sound familiar, you are probably using a different version. I use Fan Xpert2 with Maximus V Gene board.


Yup, an i've got an older P7P55D-E-PRO. I don't know if it's possible to setup the newer AISuite / FanXpert2 ware in a similar fashion... maybe? I'm happy to have eliminated the background gremlins, less is more and all that.


----------



## selk22

Update one my h220: It seems I am the first person to have any issue with the new pump design and its probably just terrible luck. Swiftech was very eager to get a hold of it again and figure out what the problem must have be. Hope things work out


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yup, an i've got an older P7P55D-E-PRO. I don't know if it's possible to setup the newer AISuite / FanXpert2 ware in a similar fashion... maybe? I'm happy to have eliminated the background gremlins, less is more and all that.


I'll have to check on that but I doubt it


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Can anyone tell me if SpeedFan can control the OP_CPU PWM header on ASUS boards since there is no way to control it from the BIOS at this time? I was informed that ASUS techs may be working on this issue for the next BIOS update...I'm not holding my breath.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if SpeedFan can control the OP_CPU PWM header on ASUS boards since there is no way to control it from the BIOS at this time? I was informed that ASUS techs may be working on this issue for the next BIOS update...I'm not holding my breath.


Most likely if you can't control it through the BIOS then you won't have any way to control it through SpeedFan either. If I remember correctly you need to at least be able to set the header for manual control in order for SpeedFan to control it.


----------



## gdubc

Afaik its just a copy/clone of the cpu header.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if SpeedFan can control the OP_CPU PWM header on ASUS boards since there is no way to control it from the BIOS at this time? I was informed that ASUS techs may be working on this issue for the next BIOS update...I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely if you can't control it through the BIOS then you won't have any way to control it through SpeedFan either. If I remember correctly you need to at least be able to set the header for manual control in order for SpeedFan to control it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply Bram, that's what I thought, but I just assumed someone here had figured out a work-around that I missed. Oh well, it's connected per Swiftech's suggestion [pump on Ch1 and fans on the others]..and working well, so I guess I should just leave well enough alone and work on my OC'ing.


----------



## bond32

Last call before it goes on ebay, selling my h220. PM me for details


----------



## NIK1

Has anyone installed their H220 on top of the case with the fill port facing down. I want to try push pull in a Cosmos 2 case and the only way is to install the flat side of the rad up top the case with the fill port down, and have the 2 fans on the bottom of the rad and 2 fans up top of the fan cut outs at the top of the case. Also is a push pill config worth doing. Right now I have two fans up top, and one on the bottom ,the second bottom fan will not fit because of the motherboard being too close. Any ideas appreciated.....


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone installed their H220 on top of the case with the fill port facing down. I want to try push pull in a Cosmos 2 case and the only way is to install the flat side of the rad up top the case with the fill port down, and have the 2 fans on the bottom of the rad and 2 fans up top of the fan cut outs at the top of the case. Also is a push pill config worth doing. Right now I have two fans up top, and one on the bottom ,the second bottom fan will not fit because of the motherboard being too close. Any ideas appreciated.....


i have it installed with teh fill port down.

I cant say the rate of evaporation for an unmodified kit, but my expanded h220 loop needs topping off every 4 months it would seem, otherwise gurgling/trickling noises will occur.

if i'm not mistaken, evap rates depend also at the water temp. My fan curves are a little slow, so the rad and tubes are warm to the touch. That may have to do with some of the evap i'm seeing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone installed their H220 on top of the case with the fill port facing down. I want to try push pull in a Cosmos 2 case and the only way is to install the flat side of the rad up top the case with the fill port down, and have the 2 fans on the bottom of the rad and 2 fans up top of the fan cut outs at the top of the case. Also is a push pill config worth doing. Right now I have two fans up top, and one on the bottom ,the second bottom fan will not fit because of the motherboard being too close. Any ideas appreciated.....


you can always add in a res. does not have to be big even this one would suffice. recommend doing it above the pump and place before the pump ( so it supplys the pump not "after" the pump ( pump discharge )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i have it installed with teh fill port down.
> 
> I cant say the rate of evaporation for an unmodified kit, but my expanded h220 loop needs topping off every 4 months it would seem, otherwise gurgling/trickling noises will occur.
> 
> if i'm not mistaken, evap rates depend also at the water temp. My fan curves are a little slow, so the rad and tubes are warm to the touch. That may have to do with some of the evap i'm seeing.


tubing plays the biggest effect. thicker tubing will evap less over time


----------



## confed

Woke up this morning and the pump was incredibly loud. I checked and the pump was running at over 3000rpm. I have been running this for about 2 months without issue. I has to turn off the computer as I'm heading to work now. The temps were all equal to what they were when I went to bed. I'm not sure what could have happened overnight. Does this sound like a motherboard or H220 issue? Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot would be appreciated. I won't be back home until 6 or 7pm EST. Sorry for not searching at the moment since in on my way out the door. Thank you all!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Woke up this morning and the pump was incredibly loud. I checked and the pump was running at over 3000rpm. I have been running this for about 2 months without issue. I has to turn off the computer as I'm heading to work now. The temps were all equal to what they were when I went to bed. I'm not sure what could have happened overnight. Does this sound like a motherboard or H220 issue? Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot would be appreciated. I won't be back home until 6 or 7pm EST. Sorry for not searching at the moment since in on my way out the door. Thank you all!


Hmm.. are you using the splitter? It sounds like you are if it's at 3K now.. Maybe the pwm wire on the splitter went out? I dunno.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Hmm.. are you using the splitter? It sounds like you are if it's at 3K now.. Maybe the pwm wire on the splitter went out? I dunno.


Yes I am. When I get home I'm going to try plugging the pump directly into the CPU header and see what happens. I'm really hoping it's something as simple as this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Yes I am. When I get home I'm going to try plugging the pump directly into the CPU header and see what happens. I'm really hoping it's something as simple as this.


Let me know what you find. I'll be around tomorrow, but I'll be out of reach most of Sunday. Just PM me if you need any assistance.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Yes I am. When I get home I'm going to try plugging the pump directly into the CPU header and see what happens. I'm really hoping it's something as simple as this.


Yeah, my splitter crapped out too and it's on the header only now and works really well in PWM.

_(outside of it just stopping randomly no matter what header it's on)_. Different issue though... just can't break the rig apart yet for the pics Brian needs.

Brian is it possible that the pumps could get damaged or flakey after being plugged into faulty splitter boards for such a period of time? I wonder if a bunch of those splitters could be the culprit in some of the pump issue reports.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yeah, my splitter crapped out too and it's on the header only now and works really well in PWM.
> 
> _(outside of it just stopping randomly no matter what header it's on)_. Different issue though... just can't break the rig apart yet for the pics Brian needs.
> 
> Brian is it possible that the pumps could get damaged or flakey after being plugged into faulty splitter boards for such a period of time? I wonder if a bunch of those splitters could be the culprit in some of the pump issue reports.


If the pump is randomly stopping and restarting there is a good chance that it is the impeller. The new impeller has less drag and designed to better protect the center shaft IIRC, among other things. In my experience, there was something that got between the body of the impeller and the housing/magnets (and stuck on the impeller), causing excessive drag and start/stop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Brian is it possible that the pumps could get damaged or flakey after being plugged into faulty splitter boards for such a period of time? I wonder if a bunch of those splitters could be the culprit in some of the pump issue reports.


This is doubtful. As long as it's receiving constant power from the Molex connector then it should be fine.


----------



## confed

I have removed the splitter and plugged directly into the CPU header. The pump still runs at over 3000 RPM. In a little over an hour I'll restart and check to see if something in the bios could be affecting it. I used an old YouTube video to ensure the settings were correct. I'll double check that and then I guess I'll have to wait a bit while I RMA the H220. It was working great up until last night but this noise is unbearable.

The motherboard is 3+ year's old. Could something be wrong there? All specs are filled out. Thank you all for the suggestions and help so far.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> I have removed the splitter and plugged directly into the CPU header. The pump still runs at over 3000 RPM. In a little over an hour I'll restart and check to see if something in the bios could be affecting it. I used an old YouTube video to ensure the settings were correct. I'll double check that and then I guess I'll have to wait a bit while I RMA the H220. It was working great up until last night but this noise is unbearable.
> 
> The motherboard is 3+ year's old. Could something be wrong there? All specs are filled out. Thank you all for the suggestions and help so far.


Have you tried plugging anything else into the CPU fan header to see if it's an issue with the header itself?


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried plugging anything else into the CPU fan header to see if it's an issue with the header itself?


I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.


What board are you working with? You went to bed and PC was turned on or off? Did you have a power failure in your house last night?

I am asking all this questions because it is possible that your BIOS have reverted to default state for some reason. And if that default is a cpu fan header volt regulated that might cause your pump to run at full speed since its not getting the PWM signal from the board. So, try to go to your BIOS and MB manual and see the proper configuration for the cpu fan header be in a PWM state.

Hope that helps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.


You should be able to just use one of the fans that this kit came with. Check to see if you can control the speed of the fan with it plugged into this header. If you can't then you'll know it's an issue with the board. When doing this just let the pump default to full speed off of the splitter.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What board are you working with? You went to bed and PC was turned on or off? Did you have a power failure in your house last night?
> 
> I am asking all this questions because it is possible that your BIOS have reverted to default state for some reason. And if that default is a cpu fan header volt regulated that might cause your pump to run at full speed since its not getting the PWM signal from the board. So, try to go to your BIOS and MB manual and see the proper configuration for the cpu fan header be in a PWM state.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Thanks for the suggestion. That is what I'm doing after work. The computer was on when I went to bed. It remained on through the night. The Overclock remains and there are no other signs that there was an issue. I stayed connected to mumble and other applications throughout the whole evening.

The motherboard is P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. That is what I'm doing after work. The computer was on when I went to bed. It remained on through the night. The Overclock remains and there are no other signs that there was an issue. I stayed connected to mumble and other applications throughout the whole evening.
> 
> The motherboard is P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.


Ok quick inspection of your manual and only cpu_fan have the potential to be PWM controlled. If your BIOS is similar to current Asus boards I guess you will have a option in BIOS to " manually" control the cpu-fan header. That will make sure that the header is actually in PWM mode if I am not mistaken...

good luck


----------



## confed

Man, thanks to all of you for helping me troubleshoot this issue. I have recorded a video of what it sounds like. Please disregard the sound of the fans and the sound of my wife typing away as she works. You can hear how it is no longer at full speed but makes huge jumps in RPM and creates that noise.

Gabriel, I tried your suggestion and the problem persisted. The setup ran perfectly fine for almost 2 months without making changes to BIOS. The only recent changes in my BIOS were to achieve my 5ghz OC which has been stable for about a week. Please let me know if you all have any other suggestions. Since the pump is changing speeds from 1800rpm to 3500 rpm I am guessing that the problem is not the CPU Header.

The current setup has the pump directly into the CPU header and the 2 fans running off of my front fan controller. That and the rear exhaust fan (also running off the controller) is the constant sound you hear in the video.


----------



## Ragsters

What's the problem with connecting the pump straight into the PWM header (CPU_Fan) on my motherboard instead of using the supplied switch? I don't need my fans to be PWM controlled only the pump. I really don't want to figure out a way to bring the switch into the case if I don't have to.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What's the problem with connecting the pump straight into the PWM header (CPU_Fan) on my motherboard instead of using the supplied switch? I don't need my fans to be PWM controlled only the pump. I really don't want to figure out a way to bring the switch into the case if I don't have to.


Have been discussed here many many times before. The pwm splitter makes sure the pump gets 12 v stable coming from PSU. Besides, several boards have dual function cpu fan header and if setting in BIOS are wrong (e.g to volt control the cpu fan) then you will damage your pump. In theory you can run from cpu fan header but due to both points above it is safer to run from the splitter.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Man, thanks to all of you for helping me troubleshoot this issue. I have recorded a video of what it sounds like. Please disregard the sound of the fans and the sound of my wife typing away as she works. You can hear how it is no longer at full speed but makes huge jumps in RPM and creates that noise.
> 
> Gabriel, I tried your suggestion and the problem persisted. The setup ran perfectly fine for almost 2 months without making changes to BIOS. The only recent changes in my BIOS were to achieve my 5ghz OC which has been stable for about a week. Please let me know if you all have any other suggestions. Since the pump is changing speeds from 1800rpm to 3500 rpm I am guessing that the problem is not the CPU Header.
> 
> The current setup has the pump directly into the CPU header and the 2 fans running off of my front fan controller. That and the rear exhaust fan (also running off the controller) is the constant sound you hear in the video.





Confed I got a little confused. Did you change anything after my post in BIOS settings or the pump just start going crazy from 1800 rpm to 3000? Also you can do as Bryan said (BRAMSLI) and keep the pump running from the molex alone and use the helix fan from the h220 kit to hook in the cpu fan header and see if you can control the fan speed. Better yet, if you have a volt controlled fan (3 pin) you can hok it p to the pu fan header and check if your motherboard is changing the rpm of such fan. That would indicate that despite the PWM capable fan header it is running in volt mode...

I will try latter to see your video right now I am off...

Really hope that helps. Sometimes the BIOS can reverse itself to other setting and we can go crazy trying to find the problem. Off to some beers now....


----------



## ez12a

if it's spinning up to 3500 rpm there's probably a fault in the control circuitry. I never get close to that speed at 100%. the pitch when it does those bursts is also in my opinion much higher than what i've heard from my pump at full speed.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> if it's spinning up to 3500 rpm there's probably a fault in the control circuitry. I never get close to that speed at 100%. the pitch when it does those bursts is also in my opinion much higher than what i've heard from my pump at full speed.


That's what I believe since it had never run above 3000rpm previously.

Gabriel, I changed the settings in bios but it has no effect. Either auto or manual has the same results.

Just noticed a glitch for the first time in HWMonitor. The Max Values on all fans spiked to impossible values.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, I saw that impossible rpm sometimes too, something like 49000 rpm in CPUID. I am using HWinfo64 these days BTW I think is more reliable..... I didn't realize the pump rpm went up from 3000 rpm and reaching 3500. My bad. I agree with ez12a never saw that before and either way is not a good sign. Perhaps is time to contact Bryan about a RMA.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Just noticed a glitch for the first time in HWMonitor. The Max Values on all fans spiked to impossible values. ]


I get impossible temp values on my mobo temp sensors in hwmonitor sometimes. I'm not sure if its hwmonitor or the mobo/bios/drvrware but i suspect the problem is in the latter... just a hunch.


----------



## EarlZ

I just got my replacement kit now and a lot of water gargling on the pump gonna leave it running before I install it


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I get impossible temp values on my mobo temp sensors in hwmonitor sometimes. I'm not sure if its hwmonitor or the mobo/bios/drvrware but i suspect the problem is in the latter... just a hunch.


It doesn't happen with hwinfo. I just verified that throughout the night. In going to contact swiftech. Thanks you all for your help


----------



## Mega Man

if it happens in hwmonitor ( very glitchy for some it works for others it doesnt ) but not in hwinfo it sounds like it is due to hwmonitor


----------



## Pholostan

Just wanted to add my 2 cents about plugging your pump into PWM headers and what not on you motherboard. I run my H220 on my Gigabyte X79-UP4 and that board is a mess BIOS/UEFI-wise. 3-bios was a very bad idea and has not worked very well, thankfully it seems to be going away completely in the latest BIOS-revisions (thank the fates!). I've tried plugging my H220 pump directly into the CPU header, using the splitter etc. It just doesn't work on this board. The headers seems to either do voltage reg or do nothing at all really. I tried many setting in BIOS, many beta-bios:es as well. Sometimes I have made it work with only the pump or only one PWM fan plugged in. Then on the next reboot it seems messed up again. So I gave up on this mess of a board a long time go and got a Zalman MFC1 fan controller. It can do PWM on one channel, and with the Swiftech splitter it works perfectly. It has a 4-pin connector back to the motherboard so it can report the pump RPM. I keep the pump at about 2000 RPM (~50% PWM) and it is very quiet with great temps.

On the other hand, my Asus board with my AMD stuff seems to have no problem with PWM regulating my Swiftech Apogee drive 2, fans and whatnot. Damn that 3d-bios...

My DYI repair of the H220 pump seems to hold up still. Thanks for the info about the new revisions of the pump, I would be glad to purchase the pump separately to replace some failing astek-stuff I have. I remember some rumors about the pump being available separately sometime in the future?


----------



## Molokou

Hello guys!

Long time ago since I posted again







(I keep reading through the forum tho







)
I don't like to bring bad news and to be another number in the stats, but yesterday my H220 pump died.
Let me explain how the system went from 110% operational state to 0:

My H220 has also worked like a charm for a couple of months, but last 2 weeks pump started that rattling noise shortly after turning the PC on.
At first, the sound only lasted no more than 5 secs, so I thought it was a trapped air bubble. But exactly yesterday, the sound stayed for several minutes after vanishing.
Yesterday, my 3770K was at full throttle when the system showed up a warning that cpu fan was at zero RPM followed by an immediate system shutdown due to the fast heat build up.
I left the system working for half an hour and when I came back to check, I was shocked and worried when saw the system at full fan speed in the BIOS screen showing the CPU Fan error and high-temperaure warning. It didn't start again even after plugging-in the pump on different PWM fan headers of my M5E, so I had to take it out and use my emergency V6GT







.

*Pump plugged in the CPU OPT header and fans to the PWM Splitter which are connected to the CPU FAN header:*



*Crazy idling temps*











I think it's time to talk to the local Swiftech distributor for the RMA process. Since I'm not from the US, I can't solve the warranty by talking to Bram (I think)
Just a little bit of bad luck, it's not like I was unaware of these issues that could show up









Will keep you updated about whether I'll get a new H220 or a refund (I want another H220 pretty please)

See ya!


----------



## fasterhoads

Seems like my H220 is exhibiting a similar noise to some here. I get a high pitched fast ticking sound coming from the motor. When I start up the pc; the noise is louder and faster and when under load does it get louder. My temps seem to be a little higher than what I believe they should be but maybe it is just my CPU. At a 3.9GHZ clock my temp are 32-38 on the four cores.

Also, for fan software - what is a good one? I have a Lamptron FC5V3 fan controller for the for fans on the rad.

Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks,


----------



## Mega Man

aquaero !~


----------



## Robilar

Is the consensus that the H220 is the best 240 AIO water kit available?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Is the consensus that the H220 is the best 240 AIO water kit available?


Yessir


----------



## Robilar

Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:

Tower supports ATX

Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.

Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.

Budget, not an issue.

Recommendations?

Thanks


----------



## Phelan

Phantom 410


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:
> 
> Tower supports ATX
> 
> Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.
> 
> Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.
> 
> Budget, not an issue.
> 
> Recommendations?
> 
> Thanks


First, I agree with Phelan...the H220 is the best AiO I've found so far. As to case, mine is in a push/pull with NO clearance issues to my X79-E WS in a CM ATCS 840. Amazon has 2 used ones that "sound" OK. I have my fans in an intake config with a 3rd intake cooling the I/O connections...all those fans have filters on them for dust management.



Good Luck


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> the H220 is the best AIO water kit available!


fixed it for you


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:
> 
> Tower supports ATX
> 
> Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.
> 
> Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.
> 
> Budget, not an issue.
> 
> Recommendations?
> 
> Thanks


caselabs merlin sm8
if bugdet is not an issue, see the H2O-X20 Elite Series


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:
> 
> Tower supports ATX
> 
> Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.
> 
> Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.
> 
> Budget, not an issue.
> 
> Recommendations?
> 
> Thanks


Actually, if you like bigger cases (though I know previously you've used M-ATX), you could get something like a Switch 810 and fit the H320 up top. Same thing as the H220 but with a 360 rad and a 3rd included fan.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:
> 
> Tower supports ATX
> 
> Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.
> 
> Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.
> 
> Budget, not an issue.
> 
> Recommendations?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> caselabs merlin sm8
> if bugdet is not an issue, see the H2O-X20 Elite Series
Click to expand...

Is that better than the H220 ?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is that better than the H220 ?


I would expect it to be... better pump + similar but less restrictive rad, same fans i think... costs more though.


----------



## Mega Man

i think it is

this is better 
H20-220 "Ultima HD"


----------



## Phelan

The H20 220-Elite kit is a premium product over the H220, however for a cpu-only loop the performance will be identical between the two because there is more than enough flow in the H220 as an AIO to equalize temps, and the radiator in the Elite kit is the same core as the H220. Same story for the Ultima HD kit. The main difference is the G1/4 ports so you can choose your own fittings, and the stronger pumps work great for larger expanded loops, like 3-4 blocks and 3-4 rads and a res or two, etc.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The H20 220-Elite kit is a premium product over the H220, however for a cpu-only loop the performance will be identical between the two because there is more than enough flow in the H220 as an AIO to equalize temps, and the radiator in the Elite kit is the same core as the H220. Same story for the Ultima HD kit. The main difference is the G1/4 ports so you can choose your own fittings, and the stronger pumps work great for larger expanded loops, like 3-4 blocks and 3-4 rads and a res or two, etc.


IE this


dont mind the tubes, no where near polished yet....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The H20 220-Elite kit is a premium product over the H220, however for a cpu-only loop the performance will be identical between the two because there is more than enough flow in the H220 as an AIO to equalize temps, and the radiator in the Elite kit is the same core as the H220. Same story for the Ultima HD kit. The main difference is the G1/4 ports so you can choose your own fittings, and the stronger pumps work great for larger expanded loops, like 3-4 blocks and 3-4 rads and a res or two, etc.


IE this


dont mind the tubes, no where near polished yet....


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> IE this
> 
> 
> dont mind the tubes, no where near polished yet....


Holy crap! Very nice







.


----------



## SleazyC

My H220's pump was making a ticking noise (sounded like something caught in the fan) this morning when I woke up. I restarted the machine and it went away after a couple minutes. Guessing my H220 was running at 100% when it was making the sound. Could this be an impeller problem? I purchased this fairly recently and was hoping to avoid any issues with it.


----------



## francisco9751

I keep reading about problems at the pump, I think it will take cooler master eisberg 240L


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> My H220's pump was making a ticking noise (sounded like something caught in the fan) this morning when I woke up. I restarted the machine and it went away after a couple minutes. Guessing my H220 was running at 100% when it was making the sound. Could this be an impeller problem? I purchased this fairly recently and was hoping to avoid any issues with it.


If it went away it was likely just a bubble that was caught in the pump.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks. So in that case, I need a case (no pun intended) that has the following characteristics:
> Tower supports ATX
> Can fit the H220 in the roof (this is a must) with push pull fans without clearance issues to the motherboard.
> Has to have some type of door fan(s) to cool gpu's.
> Budget, not an issue.
> Recommendations?
> Thanks


Fractal Arc Midi R2 will support H220 in P/P. Plenty of air cooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> I keep reading about problems at the pump, I think it will take cooler master eisberg 240L


Any watercooling can have issues with the pump. It is how the after service reflects on it customers will be determined. Plus the cost of the Eisberg is way too much, and better off going custom for the price.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Fractal Arc Midi R2 will support H220 in P/P. Plenty of air cooling
> Any watercooling can have issues with the pump. It is how the after service reflects on it customers will be determined. Plus the cost of the Eisberg is way too much, and better off going custom for the price.


True story. At the cost of the Eisberg might as well spend a little more and get an H20-220 Elite kit, which has the BEST pump (MCP35X PWM) and the BEST block (Apogee HD) integrated togther.


----------



## francisco9751

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Fractal Arc Midi R2 will support H220 in P/P. Plenty of air cooling
> Any watercooling can have issues with the pump. It is how the after service reflects on it customers will be determined. Plus the cost of the Eisberg is way too much, and better off going custom for the price.


the problem is that i am in italy and i don't and make an rma with swiftech in usa is a problem.


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> I checked and the pump was running at over 3000rpm.


I had my first h220 pump replaced because it would fail intermittently. The second pump Swiftech sent me, free of charge, constantly runs over 3000RPM with no way to slow it down. The set up is exactly the same as I had it before and I had no problem controlling my first pump (when it worked).
I contacted Swiftech when I received it, and they offered to replace it, but I have yet to request another RMA. My schedule just doesn't line up with their hours too often. To their credit, this pump has been running at an average of 3500RPM for the last 3-4 months and it hasn't failed.
Once I add another GPU, and rad, to my loop I will give Bryan another call to see if they can do anything for me even though its been a while.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisco9751*
> 
> the problem is that i am in italy and i don't and make an rma with swiftech in usa is a problem.


I believe Bacata does the RMAs in your parts


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If it went away it was likely just a bubble that was caught in the pump.


Still hearing it, its very faint though. Doesn't bother me too much just wanted to know if I should be worried about other issues stemming from this in the future.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> True story. At the cost of the Eisberg might as well spend a little more and get an H20-220 Elite kit, which has the BEST pump (MCP35X PWM) and the BEST block (Apogee HD) integrated togther.


I was considering the Swiftech H220 kit. You are indicating that the H20-X20 Elite is the best 240 rad/block kit available for cpu cooling?

I only plan to cool the cpu (as I am switching video cards at some point soon and have no plans to watercool gpu's).

From what I can see, the price is $240 plus a horrific amount of shipping from the US ($80 from California for USPS, are they crazy???). Is it worth double the price of the H220 AIO kit?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I was considering the Swiftech H220 kit. You are indicating that the H20-X20 Elite is the best 240 rad/block kit available for cpu cooling?
> 
> I only plan to cool the cpu (as I am switching video cards at some point soon and have no plans to watercool gpu's).
> 
> From what I can see, the price is $240 plus a horrific amount of shipping from the US ($80 from California for USPS, are they crazy???). Is it worth double the price of the H220 AIO kit?


Not at all. The H20-Elite kit is a premium product over the H220, and when the loop is expanded rather large, the Elite kit will walk away from the H220. But for CPU only, the H220 offers identical performance to the Elite kit at, in your case, half the cost


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SleazyC*
> 
> Still hearing it, its very faint though. Doesn't bother me too much just wanted to know if I should be worried about other issues stemming from this in the future.


Send me a PM and I'll be able to help you out with this.


----------



## Phelan

To clarify, the ONLY significant differences between the H220 and the Elite kit is the swivel barbs instead of g1/4" fittings, and the PUMP.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> To clarify, the ONLY significant differences between the H220 and the Elite kit is the swivel barbs instead of g1/4" fittings, and the PUMP.


The rads are also different, the elite kit rad is 20 or 30 mm longer i think... the difference in dimensions might be significant when it comes to fitting it in a case.


----------



## Azefore

Well thought I was in the clear for a while now since the end of April but it seems my H220's pump has died on me. Tried switching between headers/etc and still getting the same temps and an error when trying to see the cpu fanspeed/pump rpm.

@BramSLI1, should I contact you for more support or refer to newegg (original reseller of my H220)?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The rads are also different, the elite kit rad is 20 or 30 mm longer i think... the difference in dimensions might be significant when it comes to fitting it in a case.


The rads are different but the core is the same. You are right though, with the main difference in length being the larger reservoir on the MCR220-QP-RES-R2 in the Elite kit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Well thought I was in the clear for a while now since the end of April but it seems my H220's pump has died on me. Tried switching between headers/etc and still getting the same temps and an error when trying to see the cpu fanspeed/pump rpm.
> 
> @BramSLI1, should I contact you for more support or refer to newegg (original reseller of my H220)?


I'm guessing that you're probably outside of their 30 day return policy. Just PM me and I'll give you instructions on how to get your kit replaced. I won't be back into work until Tuesday so it will take a little bit to get it replaced. Monday is a holiday.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm guessing that you're probably outside of their 30 day return policy. Just PM me and I'll give you instructions on how to get your kit replaced. I won't be back into work until Tuesday so it will take a little bit to get it replaced. Monday is a holiday.


Yah it's long past expired for me lol and sure thing, I'll send along a PM tonight or tomorrow. I just swapped in my H100 from my second rig and changed out the block for the stock cooler on my gpu so waiting isn't a huge deal here. Thanks for the response


----------



## v1ral

Any word on the non u.s sales ban thing?

Dang, it sucks hearing about pumps dying and stuff.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Any word on the non u.s sales ban thing?
> 
> Dang, it sucks hearing about pumps dying and stuff.


Yeah i was wondering the same thing, i really wish i could get one


----------



## sailorman

It is very easy to get one. Place your order with NCIX in Canada. They will ship to the US. They have both the H220 and H320 in stock. Shipping for me was only $18.00.


----------



## michael-ocn

Kinda off topic... but checkout the 240 rad side mount position on this lian-li case...
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-10n/


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sailorman*
> 
> It is very easy to get one. Place your order with NCIX in Canada. They will ship to the US. They have both the H220 and H320 in stock. Shipping for me was only $18.00.


It's kind of funny that NCIX will ship from Canada to the US for $18 but Swiftech wants $80 to ship from the US to Canada....


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Yeah i was wondering the same thing, i really wish i could get one


If you are near a Microcenter they seem to still sell H220's. I picked mine up about two weeks ago from there.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sailorman*
> 
> It is very easy to get one. Place your order with NCIX in Canada. They will ship to the US. They have both the H220 and H320 in stock. Shipping for me was only $18.00.


Only $18? Where do you live? It was $55 for me, which is a huge deal breaker. I've been wanting a H220 for a while now and there's pretty much no way for me to get one without paying $200+.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Only $18? Where do you live? It was $55 for me, which is a huge deal breaker. I've been wanting a H220 for a while now and there's pretty much no way for me to get one without paying $200+.


Did you actually go through with the purchasing all the way up to the check out or did you just do the estimation at the beginning? I guarantee that it won't cost you more than $25 for shipping. The estimation is well...an estimation. I paid a shipped total of $21.64 for express shipping + $4.80 for insurance for the H320.


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Did you actually go through with the purchasing all the way up to the check out or did you just do the estimation at the beginning? I guarantee that it won't cost you more than $25 for shipping. The estimation is well...an estimation. I paid a shipped total of $21.64 for express shipping + $4.80 for insurance for the H320.


I didn't, but I figured it to be that high because of customs and all that jazz. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Only $18? Where do you live? It was $55 for me, which is a huge deal breaker. I've been wanting a H220 for a while now and there's pretty much no way for me to get one without paying $200+.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Did you actually go through with the purchasing all the way up to the check out or did you just do the estimation at the beginning? I guarantee that it won't cost you more than $25 for shipping. The estimation is well...an estimation. I paid a shipped total of $21.64 for express shipping + $4.80 for insurance for the H320.


this


----------



## EarlZ

The replacement kit seems to be doing better than the one I initially got, the motor noise is significantly lower even before my first kit had issues, this time around it cannot be heard over the GT-AP15's which is a good sign and hopefully this one will last longer. Though bramSLI is sending me the new impeller as well.

I thinking of running the pump at a lower RPM as some have said that running it at 50% wont even affect performance ??


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The replacement kit seems to be doing better than the one I initially got, the motor noise is significantly lower even before my first kit had issues, this time around it cannot be heard over the GT-AP15's which is a good sign and hopefully this one will last longer. Though bramSLI is sending me the new impeller as well.
> 
> I thinking of running the pump at a lower RPM as some have said that running it at 50% wont even affect performance ??


Mine runs between 0-10% of its maximum speed (around 1250 1350 rpm) and i didn't notice any difference in temps on my oced 2500k.
Before lowering the rpm, I shortened the tubing for a better integration in my bitfenix prodigy though. So maybe it explains why nothing changed, apart from noise.


----------



## EarlZ

I now have it at 1.25PWM / C in bios settings.. its around 2,000 RM at idle which is already inaudible even if I have my ears next to the pump and it goes upto 2,700.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I now have it at 1.25PWM / C in bios settings.. its around 2,000 RM at idle which is already inaudible even if I have my ears next to the pump and it goes upto 2,700.


Nice, sounds like you got a keeper this time


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I now have it at 1.25PWM / C in bios settings.. its around 2,000 RM at idle which is already inaudible even if I have my ears next to the pump and it goes upto 2,700.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, sounds like you got a keeper this time
Click to expand...

The first one I got was also a keeper despite having a louder than expected pump noise but then it probably broke down.. I wonder if Bram can track that S/N and examine if its really a broken pump or a forever trapped air bubble..


----------



## Imprezzion

I should shorten my hoses as well but I can't really be bothered to have to go through the whole drain and refill routine. They are hanging in a big loop and are touching my window which looks ugly







First world problems.. Haha.

Performance is seriously awesome on my H320. It keeps my 2500K between 70 and 75c in Prime95 AVX running at 5.3Ghz with ~1.480v. I'm running push-pull Noiseblocker BSF XL-P PWM fans with about 1.25PWM/C as well so they do ramp up to the full 2000RPM which is quite.. Loud but I don't really mind as it only ever happens in-game when i'm wearing my headset anyways and tbh, the Lightning (running a 7970 for a couple of days to test it) is louder at 65% fan and up anyway and with 1.34v on the poor thing it needs like, 80-85% to stay under 75c so.

As far as the pump goes, it's on 100% 24/7 on a voltage controlled header. I know.. But the ''PWM'' chassis fan headers aren't actually PWM..
It's slightly audible on idle but still suprizingly quiet even on 3K RPM.


----------



## magicase

Has anyone used a H220 on a Asrock Z87 Extreme6 MB? I'm concerned about the tubes on the CPU block that it may it the heatsinks around the CPU.


----------



## Imprezzion

Don't know about that specific board but it's a very real ''problem''.
Mine wouldn't fit on my P8Z68-V Pro when the tubes where towards the RAM and the back. It would hit the back VRM sink.

I mounted it 90 degrees turned so the tubes point top and bottom and this fits. But only just. It has like, 1 maybe 2mm of room to the top heatsink.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I should shorten my hoses as well but I can't really be bothered to have to go through the whole drain and refill routine. They are hanging in a big loop and are touching my window which looks ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First world problems.. Haha.


I recently shortened the tubing though I didn't want to be bothered by drain/refill as well. But I'm very happy with the result.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> As far as the pump goes, it's on 100% 24/7 on a voltage controlled header. I know.. But the ''PWM'' chassis fan headers aren't actually PWM..
> It's slightly audible on idle but still suprizingly quiet even on 3K RPM.


The z68 pro should have the cpu header as pwm and the cpu_opt a copy of that and also pwm, just not independently controlled.


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The z68 pro should have the cpu header as pwm and the cpu_opt a copy of that and also pwm, just not independently controlled.


True.. CPU_FAN had the PWM splitter on it which came with the H320 and it's wired with 6 Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XL-P fans which ramp in PWM at 1.25PWM / C. They idle at ~990RPM and go full power at ~1950RPM.

I switched my pump to the empty CPU_OPT header and it and it seems it did actually have a bit of noise after all









Pumpspeed ramps up and down just fine now and it's unhearable at idle now (about 1400RPM) and it ramps up to about 2400RPM for the pump and 1600RPM for the fans under Prime95 as it barely touches 60c in Prime95 (I am using 27.9 AVX).
In LinX / IBT AVX it gets quite a lot hotter at about 74c which ramps it up to 3000RPM for the pump and 1960RPM for the fans.

Pump is hearable with a light clicking noise above 2500RPM but I guess that noise is normal?
It's quiet at idle or anything under ~2500RPM. The noise isn't really high in volume, yet clearly hearable.


----------



## EarlZ

At what distance is it audible?


----------



## Imprezzion

At full power about 2 meters.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> Only $18? Where do you live? It was $55 for me, which is a huge deal breaker. I've been wanting a H220 for a while now and there's pretty much no way for me to get one without paying $200+.


It is not $55 to ship from Canada. I live in Brooklyn, NY. , a great deal further than Missouri is from Vancouver, and my shipping was $18 dollars. You must have chosen the wrong option.


----------



## EarlZ

So my cpu fan fail alarm kicked in and the h220 pump is showing zero rpm.. i was in the middle of browsing the web (sigh)

EDIT:

Well its working again after I took it out of the socket (??) but before that I directly connected it to the mobo CPU_FAN the other header to no avail, even tried connecting it directly to a 12v cable with my 4pin to molex..


----------



## roger3636

Hello Guys
I am thinking of buying one of these to replace my H80i, but whats putting me off is the reliability of these units I live in the UK
Not sure really what to do get one of these or an H100i
I like the H220 because of the copper radiator all the others have aluminum
I currently have my FX8350 at 4.7ghz on my H80i around 65c looking to get the temps down!
What do you guys think.. not sure what to do
Thanks in advance
Roger


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So my cpu fan fail alarm kicked in and the h220 pump is showing zero rpm.. i was in the middle of browsing the web (sigh)
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Well its working again after I took it out of the socket (??) but before that I directly connected it to the mobo CPU_FAN the other header to no avail, even tried connecting it directly to a 12v cable with my 4pin to molex..


May give this another shot before I RMA, so it's working once you uninstall it is what you mean when you say you took it out of the socket? I tried every mobo header but not yet a 4 pin to molex.


----------



## EarlZ

Yes, i took it out and shook it for a bit and it worked.. troll pump is trolling me.


----------



## passinos

Sorry, I know this has been discussed but I can't find a good fan choice for my for MCR240-QP (280mm) which is will be on my H220.

Newegg got a promo going:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&Description=PPSSFBVDIWFSFZ

Thinking about HELIX-140-BW to keep it same as H220 but newegg sale is looking pretty good (maybe a 140mm Cougar)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roger3636*
> 
> Hello Guys
> I am thinking of buying one of these to replace my H80i, but whats putting me off is the reliability of these units I live in the UK
> Not sure really what to do get one of these or an H100i
> I like the H220 because of the copper radiator all the others have aluminum
> I currently have my FX8350 at 4.7ghz on my H80i around 65c looking to get the temps down!
> What do you guys think.. not sure what to do
> Thanks in advance
> Roger


they actually have a high reliability dont forget ppl are directed here to troubleshoot. but there are thousands of units sold for every 1 that dies


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM and I'll be able to help you out with this.


Pretty sure it was a re-occurant bubble as the noise went away and I haven't heard it since.

I'd also like to thank Bryan and Swiftech support for being so responsive to my PWM splitter issues, they sent out another quickly and this one worked. The pump and fans attached to the radiator are now PWM controlled and its scarily silent. I don't think I've ever had a computer runt his silent that I am actually scared that something is wrong. I fired up AIDA64's stability test with Stress FPU checked off and the pump got up to about 2100RPM but the fans on the radiator were still whisper silent. Temperatures were hovering below or at 60C so those look fine but I am interested in how efficiently the radiator is cooled on an H220 when you have modest overclock (4.3GHz at 1.24V)


----------



## Turt1e

Does this fit in the Maximus VI Hero with the Swiftech logo on the pump in the right direction if I fill all four DIMM slots?


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they actually have a high reliability dont forget ppl are directed here to troubleshoot. but there are thousands of units sold for every 1 that dies


How do you know that? Dont get me wrong, i love my H220 but it looks like there are a lot of pump issues. Mine has been working fine for about 90 days, although i had air bubble noise at some point, but everything is running great now. I hope i'll keep knocking on wood









Do you think it is possible to have the RMA %?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> How do you know that? Dont get me wrong, i love my H220 but it looks like there are a lot of pump issues. Mine has been working fine for about 90 days, although i had air bubble noise at some point, but everything is running great now. I hope i'll keep knocking on wood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it is possible to have the RMA %?


Gabriel Rouchon (Swiftech CEO) shared it a while back, 3%.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Gabriel Rouchon (Swiftech CEO) shared it a while back, 3%.


I wouldn't have expected such low figure. It's great


----------



## mongomunken

How well would the H220 alone cool a GTX Titan + a 3570K?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> I wouldn't have expected such low figure. It's great


Just shows how many people went out and got one/had to have one!


----------



## fasterhoads

Ordered the H320 last night from Canada. Shipping to Texas was $21.20 plus $4.80 for insurance. Hopefully no noises.


----------



## bobsaget

What kind of screws does the H220 rad use? It doesn't seem to be M3 and M4 screws either


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> What kind of screws does the H220 rad use? It doesn't seem to be M3 and M4 screws either


These are M3.5 or 6-32 screws. Either should work fine as replacements for the stock screws.


----------



## Caos

good day .. change my h220 for eisberg 240l. my h220 pump died after 2 months.

it is possible to just pump rma? I'm from Paraguay but I can send the pump to U.S. swiftech. but only the pump. Full send me that would come very expensive.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These are M3.5 or 6-32 screws. Either should work fine as replacements for the stock screws.


thanks. Btw, is it ok to let the pump only run between 5% and 15% of its capability? It doesn't look i need more, I haven't noticed any change in temps compared to the previous setting (normal pwm setting in bios, pump used to run @ 2000/24000rpm)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> thanks. Btw, is it ok to let the pump only run between 5% and 15% of its capability? It doesn't look i need more, I haven't noticed any change in temps compared to the previous setting (normal pwm setting in bios, pump used to run @ 2000/24000rpm)


That should be fine. You just need to see that your temperatures aren't affected by the reduced speed. Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> good day .. change my h220 for eisberg 240l. my h220 pump died after 2 months.
> 
> it is possible to just pump rma? I'm from Paraguay but I can send the pump to U.S. swiftech. but only the pump. Full send me that would come very expensive.


PM me and I'm pretty sure we can work something out for you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> thanks. Btw, is it ok to let the pump only run between 5% and 15% of its capability? It doesn't look i need more, I haven't noticed any change in temps compared to the previous setting (normal pwm setting in bios, pump used to run @ 2000/24000rpm)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That should be fine. You just need to see that your temperatures aren't affected by the reduced speed. Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.


yes this
it is the beauty of pwm


----------



## air tree

Wait maybe i'm missing something but how is ncix us selling the h220?


----------



## fasterhoads

My H220 pump speed runs from 1300 to 3000 no load. As the speed increases the noise is ridiculously loud even with the side panel attached.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Wait maybe i'm missing something but how is ncix us selling the h220?


It is not on the US site. You must have had old cache on your browser.
If you go directly and look for H220 or SKU 79583 it is not there.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is not on the US site. You must have had old cache on your browser.
> If you go directly and look for H220 or SKU 79583 it is not there.


I just cleared my cashe and did everything and it still says in stock and i can add it to my cart, i checked the shipping and i got to the point where i have to put in my credit card info.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Wait maybe i'm missing something but how is ncix us selling the h220?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is not on the US site. You must have had old cache on your browser.
> If you go directly and look for H220 or SKU 79583 it is not there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> I just cleared my cashe and did everything and it still says in stock and i can add it to my cart, i checked the shipping and i got to the point where i have to put in my credit card info.


yes it is i can add it to my cart, h320 i can not.

and it is on sale too. 129.99 check the weekly special


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

ok, correct. Just checked. Didnt show up before.
I'd be careful it could be an error on NCIX part to list it. They cannot sell it in the US.
Wonderi if it cause NCIX is a Canadian company as stock gets transfer from BC.


----------



## Mega Man

no swiftech can not sell it i have not seen the patient trolls giving distributors these notices


----------



## bobsaget

Just did some quick oc on my 2500k yesterday. 45 minutes bench on OCCT (i will do longer ones this week end).

- 4.5ghz @ 1.29/1.3v on my p8z77-i deluxe
- H220 pump running @ low speed (1300 1350 rpm) and NoiseBlocker PWM fans as well (1300rpm max on full load) which i already find noisy

Temps seem to get stable @ 65°C, which is reasonnable IMO.

It looks like i have some room at the rear of my Prodigy case to install a slim 120 mm rad (with fan outside the case).
If i do that, how much will I improve my results? Note I'll probably use a low rpm DC fan (800rpm) in pull that i already own (NoiseBlocker as well).

I don't want to use the front of my case to install rads, because i've installed a 180mm phobya fan that brings fresh air to other components, including graphics card.

thanks


----------



## YounGMessiah

Damn I was going to buy the H220, but then I read the whole lawsuit, and I cant justify spending almost $300 for this unit =/. Oh well


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Damn I was going to buy the H220, but then I read the whole lawsuit, and I cant justify spending almost $300 for this unit =/. Oh well


Why would it cost $300? Be sure to actually check out the item in your cart to see the shipping cost. H220 is $150


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> My H220 pump speed runs from 1300 to 3000 no load. As the speed increases the noise is ridiculously loud even with the side panel attached.


Have you tried using the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? If so and you're still having noise issues then please PM me and I'll help you get this issue resolved.


----------



## Evildemon

Hi, i just received my new swiftech h320, but i would like to add it a Black Ice GTX-lite 240.
Do you think the h320 pump is enough for 2 rads (stock and the added one)?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evildemon*
> 
> Hi, i just received my new swiftech h320, but i would like to add it a Black Ice GTX-lite 240.
> Do you think the h320 pump is enough for 2 rads (stock and the added one)?


easily. IT was designed for such purposes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evildemon*
> 
> Hi, i just received my new swiftech h320, but i would like to add it a Black Ice GTX-lite 240.
> Do you think the h320 pump is enough for 2 rads (stock and the added one)?


That shouldn't be any problem. Please follow our guide though for expanding this kit. It can be found on our website by clicking on the H220 kit and going to the support tab. It's the video that's listed under Maintenance and Upgrades. It shows how to expand the kit to include a video card, but you can also use this guide to expand the loop to other components as well.


----------



## EarlZ

I like how the included TIM spreads, anyone know if its a rebrand of something?


----------



## M3TAl

Have a question about the PWM Splitter Box, hopefully some one here can answer. Can the PWM Box be used with multiple PWM Y splitter cables, such as *this*? Or even a 3-way splitter like *this*?

For instance if I had 12 PWM fans, could four Y-splitters (or two 3-way splitters) be used with the PWM Box connected to say CH2, CH3, CH4, and CH5 on the box ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evildemon*
> 
> Hi, i just received my new swiftech h320, but i would like to add it a Black Ice GTX-lite 240.
> Do you think the h320 pump is enough for 2 rads (stock and the added one)?


yes unlink other aios this pump packs a punch
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I like how the included TIM spreads, anyone know if its a rebrand of something?


nope it is the same swiftech stuff swiftech has been selling for a while now

you know you can buy it most places ( newegg microcenter ( i think ) ncix frozencpu )


----------



## YounGMessiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why would it cost $300? Be sure to actually check out the item in your cart to see the shipping cost. H220 is $150


Well only site that I am familiar with is Amazon and thats how much it would be. All aside I ended up ordering the Kraken X60


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

site issues


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Well only site that I am familiar with is Amazon and thats how much it would be. All aside I ended up ordering the Kraken X60


Amazon can not sell it in the US. It is sold by a 3rd party.

NCIX.ca is 149.99 CAD for H220 and $159.99 H320
You can still return or cancel the Kraken.


----------



## marc0053

How many 120mm fans can safely be installed on the 8way splitter included with the H220 kit?
Im using an ASUS rampage 4 extreme motherboard.
I've heard too many fans hooked up to a mobo can cause damage. Is this true?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Have a question about the PWM Splitter Box, hopefully some one here can answer. Can the PWM Box be used with multiple PWM Y splitter cables, such as *this*? Or even a 3-way splitter like *this*?
> 
> For instance if I had 12 PWM fans, could four Y-splitters (or two 3-way splitters) be used with the PWM Box connected to say CH2, CH3, CH4, and CH5 on the box ?


Bump, because marc0053 want to know also.

Too many fans on a mobo header can burn it out, the typical mobo header provides 1 Amp/12 Watts.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

the splitter gets power directly from the PSU, not the header.
CPU header is only to read RPM and adjust speed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> the splitter gets power directly from the PSU, not the header.
> CPU header is only to read RPM and adjust speed.


this
in theory it is how ever much the wires / pcb in the spitter can take and you psu. however i would not try to run 8 deltas off of it.....


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Bump, because marc0053 want to know also.
> 
> Too many fans on a mobo header can burn it out, the typical mobo header provides 1 Amp/12 Watts.


I wouldn't be opposed to this. It should work just fine as long as they aren't deltas lol. Personally though i would just buy a second splitter and run noth off CPU and CPU_OPT.


----------



## M3TAl

This 990FXA-UD3 (also 970A/990XA-UD3) only has one PWM header, the CPU_FAN. The SYS_FAN1 may have 4 pins but it's actually not PWM







.

Unfortunately running two Splitter Boxes is impossible







.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> This 990FXA-UD3 (also 970A/990XA-UD3) only has one PWM header, the CPU_FAN. The SYS_FAN1 may have 4 pins but it's actually not PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Unfortunately running two Splitter Boxes is impossible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You could always daisy chain the splitters. That would actually be ideal, since the pwm signal would be carried to all 15 devices (fans and pump(s)), but each splitter would have its own power plug to ease electric current flow.


----------



## M3TAl

Any body have the length x width for these? My plan is to velcro one (or maybe two if it will fit) to the backside of the case. There's not a whole lot of room, there's a million cables back there







. One should fit no problem but two might be pushing it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You could always daisy chain the splitters. That would actually be ideal, since the pwm signal would be carried to all 15 devices (fans and pump(s)), but each splitter would have its own power plug to ease electric current flow.


There's got to be some constraints on how many pwm devices the signal produced by the mobo can drive? Anybody have a clue as to what that limit might be?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Any body have the length x width for these? My plan is to velcro one (or maybe two if it will fit) to the backside of the case. There's not a whole lot of room, there's a million cables back there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . One should fit no problem but two might be pushing it.


It has 3m tape on the back. Best place to mount it is on the ODD bay. It has more clearance and you can screw into the mounting hole.


----------



## M3TAl

My ODD bay will be occupied by a HDD, an XSPC X2O 750 dual bay res/pump, a Jingway pump behind the res, and a fan controller. Back of the mobo tray is the best bet.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My ODD bay will be occupied by a HDD, an XSPC X2O 750 dual bay res/pump, a Jingway pump behind the res, and a fan controller. Back of the mobo tray is the best bet.


The splitter dont go inside the ODD bay. It goes on the side.
There would be at least some holes there too be able to screw it it in, which is an option. Just for extra secure mounting.


----------



## M3TAl

There won't be any room, back of mobo tray is a much better option.


----------



## tw33k

Expanding my H320 tomorrow. Adding a GTX Gen Two Xtreem 480 rad, a KOMODO 7950 full cover water block and Liquid Fusion 250mm Red res.Very happy


----------



## Imprezzion

Haha nice. Your going all out in the expansion straight away!

Do post pics of the build once it's done.

It would be useless for me to add a waterblock.. I change GPU much to often for that.
Could make it a universal block but how am I gunna cool the VRM/VRAM on all them different cards haha.

I'm switching my golden 2500K today to test a 2600K I bought. Let's see if it handles that as amazingly well as it did my 2500K allowing 5.3Ghz OCs and 1.5v voltages without going over 80c in Prime95.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

These are the spots to mount for your case. The area for ODD Bay, lower right corner behind mobo and the front left where the fan is, pins facing towards rear. Varies on where fan is.


----------



## M3TAl

I have five temp probes coming out of the side of the ODD bay and other wires, no room. It will have to go back of the mobo tray.

So the dimensions are still needed to see if two will fit.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So the dimensions are still needed to see if two will fit.


The Swiftech 8-way splitter connector plate is 6cm x 4,5cm (or 3,5cm without screw brackets) that's 2.362" x 1.772" (or 1.378" without screw brackets) ~ 2 3/8" x 1 3/4" (or 1 3/8" without screw brackets).


----------



## Ryld Baenre

http://s10.photobucket.com/user/SGTTEMPEST/media/PC/DSC01450_zpsdf7cdfc8.jpg.html

http://s10.photobucket.com/user/SGTTEMPEST/media/PC/DSC01449_zps93f18f8e.jpg.html

Rough idle temps with ambient temp of 16-18 C

http://s10.photobucket.com/user/SGTTEMPEST/media/PC/idletemps_zpsc1c1505e.png.html

I delidded my 3570K at the same time as installing this. I found out along the way that with a disc drive in the top most bay in the 800D that the H320 wouldn't fit in the orientation it is in these photos. I had to move the optical drive down one bay. I didn't want to orientate it the other way because there would have been clearance issues with my Silverstone FHP-141.

Thermal radar says that I am running the pump at ~2500 RPM (67%). When I go below 50% (2200 rpm) that the pump gets pretty noisy. It is quietest at 67% so far.

This is my current curve:
http://s10.photobucket.com/user/SGTTEMPEST/media/PC/Currentcurve_zps623c4271.png.html


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Asus software do not give the correct temps for CPU. It only shows socket not the core. Idle is fine, once temps get higher it is incorrect.
Use Core Temp or Real Temp. Also best to use Speed Fan to get correct speeds control which also monitors core temps too.

Looks good.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> The Swiftech 8-way splitter connector plate is 6cm x 4,5cm (or 3,5cm without screw brackets) that's 2.362" x 1.772" (or 1.378" without screw brackets) ~ 2 3/8" x 1 3/4" (or 1 3/8" without screw brackets).


Exactly what I needed! Thanks. +rep.


----------



## kingduqc

Alright, I had problem with the noise the pump made... recently it popped up and I asked what do do, they said it was bubbles trapped inside the pump because it was depending on the rpg of the said pump.

I'M trying to bleed it out but it only made it worst, Maybe the way I handled the rad while moving it out of the case or something caused more bubbles... It's sitting beside me and the noise is now worst then the air cooler I had before. I've tilted the case both side up and down what what not for a good half hour + the time I was eating and it's still noisy as hell. at 20% pump speed it feel like it's about to die, 25 is a bit better but anywhere from 35 to 60 (where i USUALLY SET IT) It's still making tons of noise and it didn't before....

The only way I can set it up is to run the pump at 15% and I'm pretty sure it's not recommended for good cooling (didn't run some prime 95) but my 4770k at 4.5 ghz need some decent cooling.

What's the next step? Endure it? RMA, is the sipping cost included? If I RMA it what could I do cause I don't have any other cooling solution and I need the PC on daily bases for school. Can I get a full refund + the shipping cost?

A bit of help would be really appreciated..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

running the pump at 15% is fine.
Have to make sure you have refilled enough fluid to fill out the air. Can take a few hours to run its course. Have to make sure the res is above the pump and run it at full speed.


----------



## Emu105

NCIX USA has them in stock


----------



## mwsantos88256

Ordered mine from NCIX CA a few days ago.


----------



## fasterhoads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> NCIX USA has them in stock


i tried ordering from the USA side when I ordered mine and had problems. Had to order from the Canadian side and pay shipping.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi, can i use the H220 pump direct to die? Like the EK-Supremacy w/precise mount


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi, can i use the H220 pump direct to die? Like the EK-Supremacy w/precise mount


The pump is on the block.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi, can i use the H220 pump direct to die? Like the EK-Supremacy w/precise mount


The H220 isn't designed to mount directly to the die, but directly to the ihs, so no.


----------



## Molokou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi, can i use the H220 pump direct to die? Like the EK-Supremacy w/precise mount


I don't think an H220 will work well with bare die.
It is designed to fit on the IHS, thereby it might not make good contact with the die itself. Also the IHS is what locks the CPU in the socket, so to run bare die you need something that will put the right amount of force to hold the CPU in there securely (EK-Supremacy PreciseMount Add-on)
Any AIO pump/waterblock is too much vibration directly on the cpu socket and the die itself, and even a heatsink with a fan constantly vibrating over it is something I'd rather avoid.

To cut a long story short, don't bother.


----------



## IBIubbleTea

Just got my H220 from NCIX Canada for 132.99, 
It took a while to install. Im using it with 2 Corsar SP120 High.


----------



## passinos

Got mine today from NCIX.CA also but was 149.99 plus ship. Wish I had room for h320, should have modded my case.
Temps dropped by 10+ from my h100.

Flipped it to exhaust on top of R4.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Can some one please help me get my temps under control? Here are what they are at idle with an ambient temp of 71F. I've cleaned both the CPU and pump several times trying to get the numbers down. Cool air is being drawn in from the top and front while the hot air is expelled from the rear...and my wire management is as neat as I can get it with 9 HDDs, 1 SSD, 10 fans and a host of other components to fill a full tower. Any help would be appreciated.







Thanks


----------



## Phelan

Idle doesn't mean much. The 3550S in my client's SG05 idles at 55*C in a 65*F room, but never gets over 85*C in Prime.

That's barely related, but the point is that idle temps depend greatly on a lot of other factors and are less important.


----------



## EarlZ

Just a random thought, would stacking 2 Helix fans on top of each other increase static pressure or CFM ? Not that I am gonna do it.


----------



## eXXon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Can some one please help me get my temps under control? Here are what they are at idle with an ambient temp of 71F. I've cleaned both the CPU and pump several times trying to get the numbers down. *Cool air is being drawn in from the top* ...........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


The Top fans in the picture show that its exhausting air, not drawing it in as you described. Flip the fans orientation & check.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXXon*
> 
> The Top fans in the picture show that its exhausting air, not drawing it in as you described. Flip the fans orientation & check.


The top fans are intake, they are pulling.


----------



## selk22

I find that this is the best airflow configuration for me.


Like Phelan said idle temps are not really the most important, what are your temps under load?


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Just a random thought, would stacking 2 Helix fans on top of each other increase static pressure or CFM ? Not that I am gonna do it.


Hi EarlZ, it's been well documented that stacking fans does not increase static pressure...the short reason being, they cancel each other out. But the Nocutas F-12s have really good static air pressure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eXXon*
> 
> The Top fans in the picture show that its exhausting air, not drawing it in as you described. Flip the fans orientation & check.
> 
> 
> 
> The top fans are intake, they are pulling.
Click to expand...

You're right Sp33d, the 2 fans above the rad draw air, while the 2 under the radiator pulls that air through...which is why I thought I'd have better temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I find that this is the best airflow configuration for me.
> 
> 
> Like Phelan said idle temps are not really the most important, what are your temps under load?


Hi selk22, I tried exhausting the air out, but the case grill got so hot and the temps weren't great I decided to do intake. Intake also cools my VRM and rear components...seemed like a win-win to me. And you and Phelan made a valid point on idle temps are meaningless...I have no pics of the Aida64 stress test, but those temps didn't peak 62C...which I thought were high. But now that I think about it, I have 9 spinners and a graphic card that generate a lot of heat...so maybe those numbers a good for my configuration...it just leaves me to wonder if I should even think about OC'ing.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Just a random thought, would stacking 2 Helix fans on top of each other increase static pressure or CFM ? Not that I am gonna do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi EarlZ, it's been well documented that stacking fans does not increase static pressure...the short reason being, they cancel each other out. But the Nocutas F-12s have really good static air pressure.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eXXon*
> 
> The Top fans in the picture show that its exhausting air, not drawing it in as you described. Flip the fans orientation
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The top fans are intake, they are pulling.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're right Sp33d, the 2 fans above the rad draw air, while the 2 under the radiator pulls that air through...which is why I thought I'd have better temps.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I find that this is the best airflow configuration for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Like Phelan said idle temps are not really the most important, what are your temps under load?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi selk22, I tried exhausting the air out, but the case grill got so hot and the temps weren't great I decided to do intake. Intake also cools my VRM and rear components...seemed like a win-win to me. And you and Phelan made a valid point on idle temps are meaningless...I have no pics of the Aida64 stress test, but those temps didn't peak 62C...which I thought were high. But now that I think about it, I have 9 spinners and a graphic card that generate a lot of heat...so maybe those numbers a good for my configuration...it just leaves me to wonder if I should even think about OC'ing.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
I actually have no plans to stack 2 of them, I dont even have the space to do so on my 350D. Speaking of the Noctua fans, I am thinking of replacing my intake GT-AP15's to them to give direct airflow to my GPU but I think it wont matter. I would probably need the AP23 to boost my intakes..


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> those temps didn't peak 62C...which I thought were high. But now that I think about it, I have 9 spinners and a graphic card that generate a lot of heat...so maybe those numbers a good for my configuration...it just leaves me to wonder if I should even think about OC'ing.


Yeah for 3930k which I also run on the h220 those temps are normal, the h220 also seems to handle OC temps very well and I seem to level out around 68c. I would say you have plenty of room for OC and I wouldn't worry unless you are over 75-80c. You have a k edition processor specifically the 3930k! To not overclock it while its under water would be crazy! Best of luck









I am running 3930k at 4.6 1.32v if that helps

EDIT: Also take into consideration that most likely you will not be running the CPU at full load 24/7 so temps under normal stress will most likely be lower than peak load, and well within the safe zone.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> those temps didn't peak 62C...which I thought were high. But now that I think about it, I have 9 spinners and a graphic card that generate a lot of heat...so maybe those numbers a good for my configuration...it just leaves me to wonder if I should even think about OC'ing.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah for 3930k which I also run on the h220 those temps are normal, the h220 also seems to handle OC temps very well and I seem to level out around 68c. I would say you have plenty of room for OC and I wouldn't worry unless you are over 75-80c. You have a k edition processor specifically the 3930k! To not overclock it while its under water would be crazy! Best of luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am running 3930k at 4.6 1.32v if that helps
> 
> EDIT: Also take into consideration that most likely you will not be running the CPU at full load 24/7 so temps under normal stress will most likely be lower than peak load, and well within the safe zone.
Click to expand...

OK OK...I'll start OC'ing Monday







...I have to watch some football today, and quite frankly, I'm tired of messing with my system. I just finished cleaning a relative's laptop and prepping it for a new hd, so I need a break from all things electronic...at least for a few days. And yes, your OC'ed 3930K has been my inspiration...just needed to get a firm baseline before I started OC'ing...thanks Selk22, have a good football Sunday.

~Kat


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> OK OK...I'll start OC'ing Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I have to watch some football today, and quite frankly, I'm tired of messing with my system. I just finished cleaning a relative's laptop and prepping it for a new hd, so I need a break from all things electronic...at least for a few days. And yes, your OC'ed 3930K has been my inspiration...just needed to get a firm baseline before I started OC'ing...thanks Selk22, have a good football Sunday.
> ~Kat


Go Cowboys!







take it easy and do things in your own time! Just saying at some point beef things up with an OC even if its a mild one.


----------



## Imprezzion

Here's my H320 doing an amazing job cooling my new 2600K.
The CPU is rather average, and it will not stabilize at 4.9Ghz no matter the voltage, but the temps are great.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thanks!
> I actually have no plans to stack 2 of them, I dont even have the space to do so on my 350D. Speaking of the Noctua fans, I am thinking of replacing my intake GT-AP15's to them to give direct airflow to my GPU but I think it wont matter. I would probably need the AP23 to boost my intakes..


I would keep the scythe over noctua.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> OK OK...I'll start OC'ing Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I have to watch some football today, and quite frankly, I'm tired of messing with my system. I just finished cleaning a relative's laptop and prepping it for a new hd, so I need a break from all things electronic...at least for a few days. And yes, your OC'ed 3930K has been my inspiration...just needed to get a firm baseline before I started OC'ing...thanks Selk22, have a good football Sunday.
> ~Kat


something everyeone is forgetting ot ask. what speed are your fans and pumps running?
if you want cool idles you need to keep the rpms up there on the fans and the pump ~ 50% at least depending on your loop may need to be higher


----------



## tw33k

Expanded my H320 but got the wrong waterblock for my Sapphire 7950 (it actually has a 7970 PCB) I've arranged to swap so I can finish the loop...


----------



## Snyderman34

Well, pump went out. Back to RMA (2nd time). Went out overnight while folding (woke up to my 2500k @ ~95C on all cores). Seriously considering getting rid of it and going back to Corsair or a custom loop


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Well, pump went out. Back to RMA (2nd time). Went out overnight while folding (woke up to my 2500k @ ~95C on all cores). Seriously considering getting rid of it and going back to Corsair or a custom loop


Was the pump connected to the splitter?


----------



## Snyderman34

It was. I just tried it connected to the motherboard and the pump kicked on. Can't believe I didn't think of that


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> It was. I just tried it connected to the motherboard and the pump kicked on. Can't believe I didn't think of that


Would be a defective splitter?


----------



## Snyderman34

I don't know now. Set it back up, reapplied therman paste, and hooked it straight into the motherboard. Things were going fine (idle between 30-34C, like normal). Started folding, shot up to 98C. Killed the folding program, idling in the 60s. Using RealTemp to keep track of temps. Here's a screenshot of RealTemp:


----------



## dallas1990

I never trusted the splitter with the pump it self. I had it connected to CPU header on the mobo its self. I have fans connected to the splitter though.

But I wonder if i switched my fans on the rad from exhaust to intake if I'll get better temps. The rad is on top of my corsair c70.
But would I have to move my rad if I did that?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I don't know now. Set it back up, reapplied therman paste, and hooked it straight into the motherboard. Things were going fine (idle between 30-34C, like normal). Started folding, shot up to 98C. Killed the folding program, idling in the 60s. Using RealTemp to keep track of temps. Here's a screenshot of RealTemp:


Was the pump running when it shot up? Or did it stop? Have you checked your BIOS to make sure the fan setting didn't reset to voltage modulation?


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

really interested in the difference between the Swiftech H320 and a custom loop. Im wondering if its worth the extra work of a custom or just get the Swiftech H320 for an easier life. The plan is to overclock an i7 4930k to its max. The choice is the swiftech or a 480mm rad and custom parts. Would the difference in temps be significant?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> really interested in the difference between the Swiftech H320 and a custom loop. Im wondering if its worth the extra work of a custom or just get the Swiftech H320 for an easier life. The plan is to overclock an i7 4930k to its max. The choice is the swiftech or a 480mm rad and custom parts. Would the difference in temps be significant?


Depeneds on which 480 rad and fans you're looking at. For CPU only, you won't get much better. As far as custom loop goes, the H220 is custom loop made easy basically. Swiftech's products in the custom loop are no joke, and peform at the peak of their targeted performance, I.E. the blocks are top performers, and the rads, since they are designed to be used with low rpm fans for acoustics, perform as well or better than all other low-fpi copper rads, including several much larger than the STs. Since the cores of these parts are used in the H220/320 (MCRx20-QP core and Apogee HD cpu block core), with the only difference being a slower pump than higher end custom loops, these units perform as good as any custom loop designed around the same principles, at least with cpu only, since the pump has more than enough flow to handle the loop. In most cases, the pump has more than enough power to run larger loops with the same performance as custom loops as well. Though this is a 6w 1 gpm pump, that doesn't tell the whole story. Up to 3,000 rpm, this pump performs almost identically to a Swiftech MCP35X, so anyone running an MCP35X at 3K rpms or lower could be running one of these pumps instead and get the same performance.


----------



## chang87

Hi guys, I would like to join this club. Anyway, I just recently installed my H220 about 4 days ago but now its making this weird pump noise. What can I do to fix this? I need help.







BTW, I also attached a link of the video I took so you guys can hear it too! I really appreciate if someone can help me on this one. I love this cooler! I dont wanna RMA if it can be fixed. Thanks!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201832568923707&set=vb.1467110590&type=2&theater


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I would like to join this club. Anyway, I just recently installed my H220 about 4 days ago but now its making this weird pump noise. What can I do to fix this? I need help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I also attached a link of the video I took so you guys can hear it too! I really appreciate if someone can help me on this one. I love this cooler! I dont wanna RMA if it can be fixed. Thanks!
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201832568923707&set=vb.1467110590&type=2&theater


There's a form on the opening post to fill out that will automatically add you to the club. Also in the opening post, there are instructions on how to bleed the air bubbles out of the pump, which happpens from time to time. More often than not, excessive noise is just air bubbles that get sucked into the impeller.


----------



## air tree

How annoying would it be to cut down the length of the tubes on the h220/h320? The tubes are just WAY too long and i was wondering how annoying it would be and what kind of coolant i should fill it back up with?


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> There's a form on the opening post to fill out that will automatically add you to the club. Also in the opening post, there are instructions on how to bleed the air bubbles out of the pump, which happpens from time to time. More often than not, excessive noise is just air bubbles that get sucked into the impeller.


I already followed the instructions on the 1st page but the noise is still there. Took me around an hour or two to do everything. Still no luck


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> There's a form on the opening post to fill out that will automatically add you to the club. Also in the opening post, there are instructions on how to bleed the air bubbles out of the pump, which happpens from time to time. More often than not, excessive noise is just air bubbles that get sucked into the impeller.
> 
> 
> 
> I already followed the instructions on the 1st page but the noise is still there. Took me around an hour or two to do everything. Still no luck
Click to expand...

I know its gonna be costly but just rma it and dont waste too much time about it. Took me 5hrs to do all the tilting and topping up and even with the help of a friend whos good at custom loops and we never fixed it.


----------



## Agoniizing

is it normal for my h220 pump to sound like water is trickling inside of it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> is it normal for my h220 pump to sound like water is trickling inside of it?


it is. Try running the pump for a while at full speed (3000 rpm) and the trickling noise should go away after some hours of use. If not you might need to fill it up with distil (see OP for instructions).


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I know its gonna be costly but just rma it and dont waste too much time about it. Took me 5hrs to do all the tilting and topping up and even with the help of a friend whos good at custom loops and we never fixed it.


mine is so annoying now... it sounds like I have one of those water garden things that make you want to pee in my computer. I've tilted anything and I even have a res added to the loop... I'm about to loose my mind.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is. Try running the pump for a while at full speed (3000 rpm) and the trickling noise should go away after some hours of use. If not you might need to fill it up with distil (see OP for instructions).


My pump is always at 3000rpm, and i already filled it with distilled


----------



## ez12a

i'll do another video on how to top off the h220 in my experience when the time comes. Right now there's zero water noise and i'm on the original impeller design. Eventually evaporation will come to a point where a trickle noise will start occurring, but it will take months.

well, at least its quiet at all but the lowest speed. Then a slight ticking noise starts.


----------



## Agoniizing

ive had so many problem with my h220. ive not had one single problem with my h100.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> I already followed the instructions on the 1st page but the noise is still there. Took me around an hour or two to do everything. Still no luck


If that's the case then please PM me and I should be able to help you resolve your issue.


----------



## Mega Man

i wonder if because the coolit and astech ( spelling ) pumps are so weak that people coming from them are not used to real watercooling sounds and then are unsatisfied ?


----------



## AlDyer

Yup Cooltit and asstech plz don't sensor this too OCN


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wonder if because the coolit and astech ( spelling ) pumps are so weak that people coming from them are not used to real watercooling sounds and then are unsatisfied ?


"water cooling sounds" and "babbling brook sounds" are different.

i look up expecting to see Nemo through my case window...

seriously though, its not terrabad now... but if it continues to get worse I'm going to have to take action.. .


----------



## Mega Man

yea you should hear my 3 mcp35x pumps in my quadfire rig sounds like a raging river and i love it. it is the sound of power. and again..... referring back to your "h100"


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wonder if because the coolit and astech ( spelling ) pumps are so weak that people coming from them are not used to real watercooling sounds and then are unsatisfied ?


So what you are trying to say is that the sound on Chang87's pump is normal ?


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If that's the case then please PM me and I should be able to help you resolve your issue.


Sent you a pm







TIA


----------



## bobsaget

I'm planning to change the rad from my H220. Therefore i need to add a res.

Would the original H220 tubing be compatible with swiftech micro res v2?

Do I also need to buy additionnal stuff, like this:
http://www.docmicro.com/pieces/Cooling-fr-Collier-de-Serrage-a-Vis-pour-Tuyau-16-a-20mm-Externe-Acier-Inoxydable-Chrome_11201.html

sorry its in french, idk the name of this piece in eng ^^

thanks


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Hose/wormdrive clamp









Just use compression fittings where possible.


----------



## thelude

Yes it will. Micro res, v2 comes with 3/8" ID barbs


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> Hose/wormdrive clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just use compression fittings where possible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Yes it will. Micro res, v2 comes with 3/8" ID barbs


Ok thanks. We don't use these measures in France, 3/8" ID is fine with 10/16mm tubing?

Compression fittings don't seem compatible, am i right? So i'll buy a couple of clamps (thanks for the word







)


----------



## Ryld Baenre

It looks like you might be able to swap out the barbs for compression fittings on the Res, that's a question for the swiftech guys. Other than that, the only place you won't be able to use them is on the pump/cpu block from the h220.


----------



## thelude

Yes it is. 3/8"ID 5/8"OD is the same thing as 10mm/16mm


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryld Baenre*
> 
> It looks like you might be able to swap out the barbs for compression fittings on the Res, that's a question for the swiftech guys. Other than that, the only place you won't be able to use them is on the pump/cpu block from the h220.


I own the Micro res. v2. And yes you can put g1/4 compression fittings on it.


----------



## bobsaget

Alright imo they look better and seem more secure. I'll get 4 of them for the res + new rad, thanks for the quick answers and info!

As for the rad, are the alphacool nexxxos ut60 + 4 scythe gt 1150 rpm in p/p a good choice?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Alright imo they look better and seem more secure. I'll get 4 of them for the res + new rad, thanks for the quick answers and info!
> 
> As for the rad, are the alphacool nexxxos ut60 + 4 scythe gt 1150 rpm in p/p a good choice?


In my opinion, and from our own internal testing, the price versus performance for the thicker radiators just isn't a good deal. I think for the extra money you have to shell out for those radiators you might only gain a couple of degrees of cooling performance. To get a real benefit from the thicker radiators you also need to use a p/p configuration and higher speed fans. This adds to noise as well. In my opinion it just isn't worth it, but that's me. Some people also find the thicker radiators to be more aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In my opinion, and from our own internal testing, the price versus performance for the thicker radiators just isn't a good deal. I think for the extra money you have to shell out for those radiators you might only gain a couple of degrees of cooling performance. To get a real benefit from the thicker radiators you also need to use a p/p configuration and higher speed fans. This adds to noise as well. In my opinion it just isn't worth it, but that's me. Some people also find the thicker radiators to be more aesthetically pleasing.


Well thanks for you reply. I hoped to gain dramatic temps but if it's not the case, i'm not going to spend 150€ for 2°C









A simple p/p on my current vanilla H220 might be a better investment lol. What should I expect from pull to push/pull? I'm currently using 2 noiseblocker eloop pwm on the top of my h220.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Well thanks for you reply. I hoped to gain dramatic temps but if it's not the case, i'm not going to spend 150€ for 2°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A simple p/p on my current vanilla H220 might be a better investment lol. What should I expect from pull to push/pull? I'm currently using 2 noiseblocker eloop pwm on the top of my h220.


OK, I think you misinterpreted what I was saying. What I was trying to convey is that the difference between adding a second thinner radiator and a thick one is only going to be a couple of degrees or so, and the price difference just really isn't warranted in my opinion. You will see a difference though by adding a second radiator, but if you're only cooling your processor the temperature difference isn't really going to be that much anyway. I hope this clarifies what I was trying to say.


----------



## bobsaget

Indeed i misinterpreted. My idea was to replace the original rad, not to add a second one







. I simply don't have room for 2*240mm rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Indeed i misinterpreted. My idea was to replace the original rad, not to add a second one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I simply don't have room for 2*240mm rad.


OK, then adding a different radiator to the one that we provide really won't make much of a difference. Not for the amount of money that you'll have to spend on it at least.


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

can anyone confirm whether the h320 will fit with push pull in the top of the phantom 630 and whether even if it does will it block anyone of the 5.25 inch bays? thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> can anyone confirm whether the h320 will fit with push pull in the top of the phantom 630 and whether even if it does will it block anyone of the 5.25 inch bays? thanks.


Depending on the height of your motherboard heat sinks it should fit, but you will most likely lose the top 5.25 drive bay.


----------



## thelude

Hey peeps. Just expanded my H220. Adding 2 GPU blocks, 360rad, and 140mm rad. Leak testing as we speak. Hopefully all goes well. Wish me luck.


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey peeps. Just expanded my H220. Adding 2 GPU blocks, 360rad, and 140mm rad. Leak testing as we speak. Hopefully all goes well. Wish me luck.


WOW! Nice! Good luck!









Post some pix after. BTW, Have you tested for temps already?


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> WOW! Nice! Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post some pix after. BTW, Have you tested for temps already?


Not yet. Just doing a 12 hour leak test first. Just wanna make sure. Will post pics and temps after everything is A.O.K


----------



## Robilar

After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?

Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?
> 
> Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?


Mainly those with issues are posting here so I really wouldn't be concerned, failure rate is relatively low.

As for best fans to use that's user and situation specific, I will say it is safe to use them on the controller though. I put my 3 noctua F12s on it and had been running great


----------



## EarlZ

Honestly the failure rate is too high for my liking, a friend of mine who also posted in this thread is having issues. Im not saying all or most are faulty but its there and it is an issue and hence the new impeller was designed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In my opinion, and from our own internal testing, the price versus performance for the thicker radiators just isn't a good deal. I think for the extra money you have to shell out for those radiators you might only gain a couple of degrees of cooling performance. To get a real benefit from the thicker radiators you also need to use a p/p configuration and higher speed fans. This adds to noise as well. In my opinion it just isn't worth it, but that's me. Some people also find the thicker radiators to be more aesthetically pleasing.


+2 unless you are stupid like me and like to put 1.7v through your chip.... then.... it is worth it, and you usually dont care if it is loud
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Well thanks for you reply. I hoped to gain dramatic temps but if it's not the case, i'm not going to spend 150€ for 2°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A simple p/p on my current vanilla H220 might be a better investment lol. What should I expect from pull to push/pull? I'm currently using 2 noiseblocker eloop pwm on the top of my h220.


push pull WILL NOT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE..... ( assuming you are using good rad fans ) on thin rads. thick rads on the other hand are different
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?
> 
> Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?


yes you can. but.... see my above reply
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Honestly the failure rate is too high for my liking, a friend of mine who also posted in this thread is having issues. Im not saying all or most are faulty but its there and it is an issue and hence the new impeller was designed.


if you think 3% is high..... wow .... i would hate to know what you think low is ....


----------



## EarlZ

Neither you nor I can prove or disprove the 3%, I personally see a high failure rate especially after knowing a friend who also had the very same issue and pump noise. But I understand what you are trying to say it wont change how I or the others will see it.

And speaking of pump noise, mine is acting up again.. an audible clicking sound.. this is how it sounded before it got pretty loud and I had to return the unit. This is such a waste of time and money.


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Neither you nor I can prove or disprove the 3%, I personally see a high failure rate especially after knowing a friend who also had the very same issue and pump noise. But I understand what you are trying to say it wont change how I or the others will see it.
> 
> And speaking of pump noise, mine is acting up again.. an audible clicking sound.. this is how it sounded before it got pretty loud and I had to return the unit. This is such a waste of time and money.


you just got your replacement unit around 2 weeks ago right? and now its acting up again? OMG!









I'm afraid of my replacement unit too! i already returned my 1st unit to the reseller. I'm just waiting for the replacement unit now. :'(


----------



## Imprezzion

My H320 is also slightly clicking when the pump is at full power but on lower PWM values, like anything under ~2400RPM or 70%, it's quiet.

And honestly I can't be all that worried just yet..


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?
> 
> Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?


Push pull is a wate of time on thin radiators. You'll get 1 degree celsius difference with more noise and a smaller wallet.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Neither you nor I can prove or disprove the 3%, I personally see a high failure rate especially after knowing a friend who also had the very same issue and pump noise. But I understand what you are trying to say it wont change how I or the others will see it.
> 
> And speaking of pump noise, mine is acting up again.. an audible clicking sound.. this is how it sounded before it got pretty loud and I had to return the unit. This is such a waste of time and money.
> 
> 
> 
> you just got your replacement unit around 2 weeks ago right? and now its acting up again? OMG!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid of my replacement unit too! i already returned my 1st unit to the reseller. I'm just waiting for the replacement unit now. :'(
Click to expand...

Yes, others also reported that they have sent the unit for RMA twice/thrice already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> My H320 is also slightly clicking when the pump is at full power but on lower PWM values, like anything under ~2400RPM or 70%, it's quiet.
> 
> And honestly I can't be all that worried just yet..


I am not worried that the pump noise will lead to failure, I am annoyed by the noise it makes.


----------



## os2wiz

Mega man did my H320 installationyesterday. In a post to you on the FX owners club I mentioned a memory issue because I couldn't use the 2 black slots. Well I reversed the memory in the 2 red slots and the second dimm was counted. Very finicky .

Now for my installation issues. Aside from the tubing and barb blocking the rear slot, the the AMD bracket puts a lot of pressure against the rear vrms. It is more than merely touching as Bond32 described it in describing his own installation. My temperatures under stress under not good 69 Celcius for Prime95 blend. I think peraps thar corner of the bracket thatpushes against the vrms may not be 100% flush against the cpu. If that is the case the only way to resolve it is by grinding down thatpart of the bracket. Of course I do not have a workshop or tools for that job. I am not overclocking now , even at stock with prime95 running I get 69 under full load and occasionally the pc will just shut off while running it. I have the pump hooked up to channel 1 and the 3 fans on the remaining channels..


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?
> 
> Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?


Been running 2 since Day 1 release. I don't run the pumps at full, I have a correct air capture with the reservoir and I am very satisfied with both of the loops I built.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Honestly the failure rate is too high for my liking, a friend of mine who also posted in this thread is having issues. Im not saying all or most are faulty but its there and it is an issue and hence the new impeller was designed.


The failure rate is VERY low, the impeller would be redesigned if they noticed a trend with that being a point of failure, it doesn't indicate at all that there is a high failure rate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Neither you nor I can prove or disprove the 3%, I personally see a high failure rate especially after knowing a friend who also had the very same issue and pump noise. But I understand what you are trying to say it wont change how I or the others will see it.
> 
> And speaking of pump noise, mine is acting up again.. an audible clicking sound.. this is how it sounded before it got pretty loud and I had to return the unit. This is such a waste of time and money.


Anecdotal evidence at its very worst. There is nothing to prove / disprove Swiftech has been incredibly forward with the results of this product, mostly because its been a huge hit for them and we have a large portion of users who are very happy with it.

Any failure is a waste of time and money, but considering the failures seem to have this odd tendency of happening multiple times to the same people, I am far more inclined to believe user error or configuration error, then the H220 being a faulty design. The product IS sensitive, if there had to be something to pick for swiftech to improve on this product, it would be to make it more robust electronically.


----------



## gdubc

Also, I seem to remember them being so popular no one could ever get ahold of one and they always sold out. To me that would mean there are a large number of h220s out there that people have no problems with.

After all, there are only 650 pages posts in this thread, and the number of posts with complaints is just a fraction of that number. In fact, BramSli has posted a little over 500 times himself and I know not all of those posts were about setting up rmas.

People just need to sit back and think about the bigger picture.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> +2 unless you are stupid like me and like to put 1.7v through your chip.... then.... it is worth it, and you usually dont care if it is loud
> push pull WILL NOT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE..... ( assuming you are using good rad fans ) on thin rads. thick rads on the other hand are different
> yes you can. but.... see my above reply
> if you think 3% is high..... wow .... i would hate to know what you think low is ....


The mounting brackets,especially for AMD, could be greatly improved, they are much more kludgy to deal with than the Corsair brackets. It would behoove Swiftech to do a redesign of them. Other than that I have no other complaint at this early stage of the game


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Been running 2 since Day 1 release. I don't run the pumps at full, I have a correct air capture with the reservoir and I am very satisfied with both of the loops I built.
> The failure rate is VERY low, the impeller would be redesigned if they noticed a trend with that being a point of failure, it doesn't indicate at all that there is a high failure rate.
> Anecdotal evidence at its very worst. There is nothing to prove / disprove Swiftech has been incredibly forward with the results of this product, mostly because its been a huge hit for them and we have a large portion of users who are very happy with it.
> 
> Any failure is a waste of time and money, but considering the failures seem to have this odd tendency of happening multiple times to the same people, I am far more inclined to believe user error or configuration error, then the H220 being a faulty design. The product IS sensitive, if there had to be something to pick for swiftech to improve on this product, it would be to make it more robust electronically.


When you say you have a correct air capture with the reservoir, does that mean you did some modification ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> When you say you have a correct air capture with the reservoir, does that mean you did some modification ?


I think he means he has the reservoir pointed upward, and possibly topped off.
By the way, you can get some 80 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper at Walmart for about $4, use a small piece of it and sand a divit into the VRM heatsink, and then wipe it down good and brush it with some black touch up paint to give you more clearance there and better seat your block.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I think he means he has the reservoir pointed upward, and possibly topped off.
> By the way, you can get some 80 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper at Walmart for about $4, use a small piece of it and sand a divit into the VRM heatsink, and then wipe it down good and brush it with some black touch up paint to give you more clearance there and better seat your block.


lol, would never have seen that post if you had not quoted, thanks I guess for answering


----------



## B3L13V3R

Pushing the H220 rad to the limit for testing temps and new GPU for SLI to Tri-SLI.

I'll report back. Just for fun. >


----------



## Avonosac

Why is there a fan on your CSQ bridge? lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Ha... It's just leaning on it. It's pulling air through the GPU set because I only have that 240 rad doing all the work.

The rad fans are pushing air towards the GPU'S.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Pushing the H220 rad to the limit for testing temps and new GPU for SLI to Tri-SLI.
> 
> I'll report back. Just for fun. >


What fans are you using on the rad?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Reposting as there is an error on one of the pages int he thread. I have tested it on 3 browsersn on the Mac and 2 on the iPhone.


----------



## B3L13V3R

* Duplicate *


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What fans are you using on the rad?


All 4 four are Cougar somthin-er'-other's... Quiet when slow to medium, but loud when too high...


----------



## BramSLI1

Is there any chance of you testing this configuration with our Helix PWM fans? I'd like to see what your results would be and see if there's much of a difference.


----------



## michael-ocn

Should be interesting to see wha happens







I would expect that you'll exceed the limits of what the cooler can deal with given all that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Pushing the H220 rad to the limit for testing temps and new GPU for SLI to Tri-SLI.
> 
> I'll report back. Just for fun. >


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> After perusing this thread, should I be concerned about the H220 I just bought?
> 
> Also, what would be the best 4 fans to pair with it for push pull? And can I hook 4 fans to the included controller that comes with the H220?
> 
> 
> 
> Been running 2 since Day 1 release. I don't run the pumps at full, I have a correct air capture with the reservoir and I am very satisfied with both of the loops I built.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Honestly the failure rate is too high for my liking, a friend of mine who also posted in this thread is having issues. Im not saying all or most are faulty but its there and it is an issue and hence the new impeller was designed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The failure rate is VERY low, the impeller would be redesigned if they noticed a trend with that being a point of failure, it doesn't indicate at all that there is a high failure rate.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Neither you nor I can prove or disprove the 3%, I personally see a high failure rate especially after knowing a friend who also had the very same issue and pump noise. But I understand what you are trying to say it wont change how I or the others will see it.
> 
> And speaking of pump noise, mine is acting up again.. an audible clicking sound.. this is how it sounded before it got pretty loud and I had to return the unit. This is such a waste of time and money.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Anecdotal evidence at its very worst. There is nothing to prove / disprove Swiftech has been incredibly forward with the results of this product, mostly because its been a huge hit for them and we have a large portion of users who are very happy with it.
> 
> Any failure is a waste of time and money, but considering the failures seem to have this odd tendency of happening multiple times to the same people, I am far more inclined to believe user error or configuration error, then the H220 being a faulty design. The product IS sensitive, if there had to be something to pick for swiftech to improve on this product, it would be to make it more robust electronically.
Click to expand...

There IS a new impeller design, i am even waiting for one to arrive which is arranged by bram to be shipped out out to me.

How can it be a user fault when it is installed and running fine for weeks and all if a sudden it fails, if you have a creative explanation for that i am all ears so i can prevent it from happening.

For some who has never sent it back of course you wont feel the same way as those who sent it back twice, i would also be on the low fail rate side of the fence.

Not pointing out to you but instead of defending 3% fail rate why not poat something constructive to help people out.

Heck i am even blaming the pwm splitter as it was the only thing NOT replaced in my kit.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is there any chance of you testing this configuration with our Helix PWM fans? I'd like to see what your results would be and see if there's much of a difference.


Since you requested it, I can do that... however, I can't imagine that without at least a push/pull (since I don't have 4 of them) config, that the rad won't be overwhelmed. I don't mind doing that for good'ol Bry!!









Can't say I'm not a bit curious myself. Just to be clear though, the pump will be a Swiftech MCP655 PWM 12v, and not the AIO.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Since you requested it, I can do that... however, I can't imagine that without at least a push/pull (since I don't have 4 of them) config, that the rad won't be overwhelmed. I don't mind doing that for good'ol Bry!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say I'm not a bit curious myself. Just to be clear though, the pump will be a Swiftech MCP655 PWM 12v, and not the AIO.


The MCP655 is fine. I just want to see how the rad performs when pushed to the limit and possibly beyond. Thanks for offering to test it with our Helix fans. I really appreciate it.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There IS a new impeller design, i am even waiting for one to arrive which is arranged by bram to be shipped out out to me.
> 
> How can it be a user fault when it is installed and running fine for weeks and all if a sudden it fails, if you have a creative explanation for that i am all ears so i can prevent it from happening.
> 
> For some who has never sent it back of course you wont feel the same way as those who sent it back twice, i would also be on the low fail rate side of the fence.
> 
> Not pointing out to you but instead of defending 3% fail rate why not poat something constructive to help people out.
> 
> Heck i am even blaming the pwm splitter as it was the only thing NOT replaced in my kit.


I don't have an explanation for it, but I do have a healthy dose of skepticism when one person continues to break units when the vast majority of users have completely fine units. I am logically looking at the failure rates of this product, the numbers which comes directly from Swiftech, and using them to refute exaggerations. I don't feel like I need to defend my positive contributions to this thread, and I will continue to help other users out, just as I am continuing to help users who read this thread by pointing out the flaws in your reasoning.

I'm not on any side of the any fence, I am just trying to make sure information is accurately presented without emotional bias, or frustrations skewing the results.

Other users who do not know as much as I do about this product might see your rant, and believe the unit has a high failure rate, which it does not. Revisions on a product do not necessarily indicate the product isn't good, it could also imply the company found a better way to do something, or a cheaper way, or both. As far as I am aware, the only difference in the new impeller design is they removed a pocket which in some scenarios was trapping a bubble which some users found very hard to remove from their units.

If you really have received two units with genuine mechanical problems with the impeller, which has nothing to do with the way you have mounted, or plugged the H220 unit in, then I am sorry for your frustrations with this product. As someone who has over 15 years experience building personal computers, I have learned it is far more likely to be user error than faulty products.


----------



## Sanlitun

My second unit just failed. Ran fine for 5 months and then stopped just now.

Had no problems at all through a very hot summer and then poof.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sanlitun*
> 
> My second unit just failed. Ran fine for 5 months and then stopped just now.
> 
> Had no problems at all through a very hot summer and then poof.


I already received and replied to your email. I look forward to hearing back from you soon so that I can help you resolve this issue.


----------



## Pure2sin

Bram

Are you getting my messages an E-mails? It has been over a week and I have not received a response?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Bram
> 
> Are you getting my messages an E-mails? It has been over a week and I have not received a response?


Your message really doesn't pertain to me, but it has been passed upward. The answer to your question is outside of my pay-grade if you know what I mean.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is there any chance of you testing this configuration with our Helix PWM fans? I'd like to see what your results would be and see if there's much of a difference.


I tested a single Helix vs a single Cougar Vortex PWM on a Kuhler 620 rad which of course is quite different from the H220 rad. I believe it's around 25mm thick and around 22 FPI. The Helix was a little quieter at same RPM's but temps were also ~2C behind. Testing *HERE*

You may notice in the tests the Helix going all the way to 2100 RPM when max should be ~1800 RPM. I have two Helix fans, one tops out at 1600-1700 RPM the other goes all the way to 2100 RPM. Not sure why.


----------



## michael-ocn

Comments like "chicken little exaggerations" and "flaws in reasoning" are belittling and rude. Enough folks have issue with the pump noise problem to recognize it's not just a matter of user error. To suggest to Earlz and anybody else that's come here seeking solutions to that problem that it's somehow all their fault is not helpful.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I don't have an explanation for it, but I do have a healthy dose of skepticism when one person continues to break units when the vast majority of users have completely fine units. I am logically looking at the failure rates of this product, the numbers which comes directly from Swiftech, and using them to refute your chicken little exaggerations. I don't feel like I need to defend my positive contributions to this thread, and I will continue to help other users out, just as I am continuing to help users who read this thread by pointing out the flaws in your reasoning.
> 
> I'm not on any side of the any fence, I am just trying to make sure information is accurately presented without emotional bias, or frustrations skewing the results.
> 
> Other users who do not know as much as I do about this product might see your rant, and believe the unit has a high failure rate, which it does not. Revisions on a product does not necessarily indicate the product isn't good, it could also imply the company found a better way to do something, or a cheaper way, or both. As far as I am aware, the only difference in the new impeller design is they removed a pocket which in some scenarios was trapping a bubble which some users found very hard to remove from their units.
> 
> If you really have received two units with genuine mechanical problems with the impeller, which has nothing to do with the way you have mounted, or plugged the H220 unit in, then I am sorry for your frustrations with this product. As someone who has over 15 years experience building personal computers, I have learned it is far more likely to be user error than faulty products.


----------



## selk22

For those of you talking about the failure rate of the product.. I am sure we see a much larger % of failures because this thread is usually the first place people ask questions regarding issues. Avonosac was saying he believes these failure units to be user error and I disagree. I have been building PC's since I was 10, I am 23 now.

I have never done anything to cause an h220 to fail, every step Iv taken to fix the problems has never resulted in a solution. That being said my personal experience thus far has been somewhat rough. First h220 was DOA from coolerguys.com, second h220 ran very smoothly for about a month before getting terrible terrible pump noise, 3rd h220 *WITH* the new impeller design died after moving the PC from one corner of the house to another. BramSLI1 even has stated that moving the PC should not have effected the new pump. Since I seem to be the first person to have issues on the new impeller, Swiftech was very eager to get their hands on the dead pump but I still have not heard any news regarding progress.

SO the 3rd h220 is back in Swiftech's hands and I have been using the 2nd h220 with the terrible noise this whole time. I can say that I am extremely glad for the cross shipping feature and amazing support that Swiftech has but I am not so impressed by the product itself.. When it's working correctly it is AWESOME! When its not it is honestly extremely frustrating... Especially when you live with others and they are constantly telling me to turn off the clicking noise (They dont know what a CPU cooler is)









I will be extremely pleased if this is the last time I have to deal with the Swiftech RMA process... I just want to expand the h220 but with so much bad luck I am scared.


----------



## mcnumpty23

for those of you in the uk specialtech has 8 of the h320 in stock

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-H320-Compact-Drive-II-PWM-Water-Cooling-Kit-pid-18387.html

my h320 has been packed for moving house

hope its all ok once i get it out


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There IS a new impeller design, i am even waiting for one to arrive which is arranged by bram to be shipped out out to me.
> 
> How can it be a user fault when it is installed and running fine for weeks and all if a sudden it fails, if you have a creative explanation for that i am all ears so i can prevent it from happening.
> 
> For some who has never sent it back of course you wont feel the same way as those who sent it back twice, i would also be on the low fail rate side of the fence.
> 
> Not pointing out to you but instead of defending 3% fail rate why not poat something constructive to help people out.
> 
> Heck i am even blaming the pwm splitter as it was the only thing NOT replaced in my kit.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have an explanation for it, but I do have a healthy dose of skepticism when one person continues to break units when the vast majority of users have completely fine units. I am logically looking at the failure rates of this product, the numbers which comes directly from Swiftech, and using them to refute your chicken little exaggerations. I don't feel like I need to defend my positive contributions to this thread, and I will continue to help other users out, just as I am continuing to help users who read this thread by pointing out the flaws in your reasoning.
> 
> I'm not on any side of the any fence, I am just trying to make sure information is accurately presented without emotional bias, or frustrations skewing the results.
> 
> Other users who do not know as much as I do about this product might see your rant, and believe the unit has a high failure rate, which it does not. Revisions on a product does not necessarily indicate the product isn't good, it could also imply the company found a better way to do something, or a cheaper way, or both. As far as I am aware, the only difference in the new impeller design is they removed a pocket which in some scenarios was trapping a bubble which some users found very hard to remove from their units.
> 
> If you really have received two units with genuine mechanical problems with the impeller, which has nothing to do with the way you have mounted, or plugged the H220 unit in, then I am sorry for your frustrations with this product. As someone who has over 15 years experience building personal computers, I have learned it is far more likely to be user error than faulty products.
Click to expand...

If you do not have an explanation for it then why are you accusing ALL of us about user error, I have even posted on how it is installed on my system and how the tubes are placed. If you really had the intention to help out on people who have issues with the unit then for sure you have noticed the pictures I have posted a few pages back, You say there if there is an issue on the impeller and a new redesign would be out and its already out now you back out on your statement and try to water it down. The only help and contribution you have been doing so far is belittle anyone with issues.

I believe other users are smart enough to understand what is posted here and decide if they want to go through with the purchase, persuading them to believe on something else is actually an insult to their intelligence.

Your 15 years of experience translates to nothing after what you have just said, if you cannot help out then avoid any further comments.


----------



## Molokou

Hello guys!

Just as an update about my dead unit: well, week and a half and the store where I bought it from is taking a lot to RMA it (they haven't even answered my messages about when to return it to them)








Seems like I'll be sticking to my ol' and reliable V6GT in the meantime.

Damn store *sigh*
Also I don't think shipping the unit back to ST would be a good idea tho


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Mega man did my H320 installationyesterday. In a post to you on the FX owners club I mentioned a memory issue because I couldn't use the 2 black slots. Well I reversed the memory in the 2 red slots and the second dimm was counted. Very finicky .
> 
> Now for my installation issues. Aside from the tubing and barb blocking the rear slot, the the AMD bracket puts a lot of pressure against the rear vrms. It is more than merely touching as Bond32 described it in describing his own installation. My temperatures under stress under not good 69 Celcius for Prime95 blend. I think peraps thar corner of the bracket thatpushes against the vrms may not be 100% flush against the cpu. If that is the case the only way to resolve it is by grinding down thatpart of the bracket. Of course I do not have a workshop or tools for that job. I am not overclocking now , even at stock with prime95 running I get 69 under full load and occasionally the pc will just shut off while running it. I have the pump hooked up to channel 1 and the 3 fans on the remaining channels..


iirc he said he switched it 180deg to do it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Been running 2 since Day 1 release. I don't run the pumps at full, I have a correct air capture with the reservoir and I am very satisfied with both of the loops I built.
> The failure rate is VERY low, the impeller would be redesigned if they noticed a trend with that being a point of failure, it doesn't indicate at all that there is a high failure rate.
> Anecdotal evidence at its very worst. There is nothing to prove / disprove Swiftech has been incredibly forward with the results of this product, mostly because its been a huge hit for them and we have a large portion of users who are very happy with it.
> 
> Any failure is a waste of time and money, but considering the failures seem to have this odd tendency of happening multiple times to the same people, I am far more inclined to believe user error or configuration error, then the H220 being a faulty design. The product IS sensitive, if there had to be something to pick for swiftech to improve on this product, it would be to make it more robust electronically.


funny i have been thinking the same thing...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The mounting brackets,especially for AMD, could be greatly improved, they are much more kludgy to deal with than the Corsair brackets. It would behoove Swiftech to do a redesign of them. Other than that I have no other complaint at this early stage of the game


meh once you get used to it... it is easy, it has been said many times by professional reviewers swiftech has the BEST mounting method or one of the best.... the reasons being you can not put too much pressure on the cpu unlike with bolts and screws that have no backing.

assuming it is like.... well every other swiftech cpu block out.... the best way imo is to put a small pillow ( i mean thin and small sized ) under the mobo ( i have cpu cut out and just do it in my case ) to support the back bracket and then mount the cpu cooler... i can do mine in a matter of minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> When you say you have a correct air capture with the reservoir, does that mean you did some modification ?


i think he is pointing it up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I tested a single Helix vs a single Cougar Vortex PWM on a Kuhler 620 rad which of course is quite different from the H220 rad. I believe it's around 25mm thick and around 22 FPI. The Helix was a little quieter at same RPM's but temps were also ~2C behind. Testing *HERE*
> 
> You may notice in the tests the Helix going all the way to 2100 RPM when max should be ~1800 RPM. I have two Helix fans, one tops out at 1600-1700 RPM the other goes all the way to 2100 RPM. Not sure why.


it could be the program is not reading accurately, but all components have a range with a + or - number ( usually 10%)

although shipping can also damage units ... ever seen one of these videos ?


----------



## Phelan

Oh man.. I didn't even think about shipping being a problem, though I know from past experience it can easily be. Had lots of iPhone screens show up to my door cracked...

As for the new impeller design, I think there is a lot more behind the redesign than we think, and I honestly think that some of the differences to it are to refute Asetek's patent claims...


----------



## EarlZ

If anyone else thinks I have a configuration error, please let me know with a constructive feedback so everyone else can avoid such errors, I doubt there are any configuration errors but I may have missed something.


----------



## EarlZ

-double post-


----------



## fasterhoads

Installed my new H320 tonight. Super quiet at max load. Got the fans plugged into the splitter. Has anyone seen any noticeable difference in temps running the pull config vs push/pull? I only have Scythe AP15's and 29's nothing else PWM.


----------



## EarlZ

Since you are only cooling the CPU I would recon that you might not benefit that much from P/P config.. if any maybe 1-2c at best?


----------



## ez12a

the rad is so free flowing that push/pull nets neigh nothing. only one set of ap-15s is fine.


----------



## EarlZ

True, I even undervolted my GT-AP15 and there was no increase in temps.

How do we get speed fan to auto start with windows?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> True, I even undervolted my GT-AP15 and there was no increase in temps.
> 
> How do we get speed fan to auto start with windows?


Start (button) - All programs - Startup maybe


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> Installed my new H320 tonight. Super quiet at max load. Got the fans plugged into the splitter. Has anyone seen any noticeable difference in temps running the pull config vs push/pull? I only have Scythe AP15's and 29's nothing else PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE]
> is that a corsair 800d? I'm thinking aboutgetting that or a Silverstone tj11 if I save up the money lol


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Comments like "chicken little exaggerations" and "flaws in reasoning" are belittling and rude. Enough folks have issue with the pump noise problem to recognize it's not just a matter of user error. To suggest to Earlz and anybody else that's come here seeking solutions to that problem that it's somehow all their fault is not helpful.


Did you read through my posts? At no point did I remotely suggest any failure of the unit was caused by user error. I do suggest that when multiple failures happen quickly to the same user, it is now far more likely a user error (configuration, PWM header not working right on the motherboard, bad bios settings even on mobos with PWM) than the user being so unlucky as to get 2, 3 units in a row which do not work. Brian can't say this, after working in software and building hardware as a hobby, it is FAR more likely than Swiftech being to blame for it. I am sorry that true statements of this nature upset you, and you feel are not constructive, but even with the hardware consistencies of today, there is more to building a working computer system than plugging in the header and a lot of people forget that.

He has obvious flaws in his logic, his way of reasoning, and he is jumping to catastrophic conclusions from very little evidence. What you have me say instead? His situation is unfortunate, but he is turning an ant hill into everest as far as the H220 pump is concerned. He is certainly entitled to his opinion, but I am just as entitled to point out the flaws in his posting in the hopes of dissuading others from subscribing to his "logic".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> For those of you talking about the failure rate of the product.. I am sure we see a much larger % of failures because this thread is usually the first place people ask questions regarding issues. Avonosac was saying he believes these failure units to be user error and I disagree. I have been building PC's since I was 10, I am 23 now.
> 
> I have never done anything to cause an h220 to fail, every step Iv taken to fix the problems has never resulted in a solution. That being said my personal experience thus far has been somewhat rough. First h220 was DOA from coolerguys.com, second h220 ran very smoothly for about a month before getting terrible terrible pump noise, 3rd h220 *WITH* the new impeller design died after moving the PC from one corner of the house to another. BramSLI1 even has stated that moving the PC should not have effected the new pump. Since I seem to be the first person to have issues on the new impeller, Swiftech was very eager to get their hands on the dead pump but I still have not heard any news regarding progress.
> 
> SO the 3rd h220 is back in Swiftech's hands and I have been using the 2nd h220 with the terrible noise this whole time. I can say that I am extremely glad for the cross shipping feature and amazing support that Swiftech has but I am not so impressed by the product itself.. When it's working correctly it is AWESOME! When its not it is honestly extremely frustrating... Especially when you live with others and they are constantly telling me to turn off the clicking noise (They dont know what a CPU cooler is)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be extremely pleased if this is the last time I have to deal with the Swiftech RMA process... I just want to expand the h220 but with so much bad luck I am scared.


Selk I have tried to help you before, but as you said there have been issues. I still believe your motherboard or power supply might be doing something funny to your pumps. It isn't necessarily "you're" fault in a finger pointing kind of way, it just is a fault of the hardware you are using the units with, as I stated I believe Swiftech does need to beef up the electronics on this unit a bit, because other than the impeller catching a bubble and not letting it go, the electronics are the other only notable point of failure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If you do not have an explanation for it then why are you accusing ALL of us about user error, I have even posted on how it is installed on my system and how the tubes are placed. If you really had the intention to help out on people who have issues with the unit then for sure you have noticed the pictures I have posted a few pages back, You say there if there is an issue on the impeller and a new redesign would be out and its already out now you back out on your statement and try to water it down. The only help and contribution you have been doing so far is belittle anyone with issues.
> 
> I believe other users are smart enough to understand what is posted here and decide if they want to go through with the purchase, persuading them to believe on something else is actually an insult to their intelligence.
> 
> Your 15 years of experience translates to nothing after what you have just said, if you cannot help out then avoid any further comments.


At no point did I accuse all owners of multiple failed H220 units of user error. I did say it is far more likely it was a user error or configuration error, which would include but not be limited to: user error, motherboard header malfunction, power supply malfunction, shorted pwm splitter, shorted cables, bad pwm fan controllers, brown outs, power surges, etc.

I have no issues making statements that the true root cause of these dead pumps could lie in that category, nor at any point did I conclude your installation of the pump was the cause. That was another bad assumption on your part. I have no issues belittling someone who refuses to use intelligence and gets offended by the first person disagreeing with their catastrophic claims.

I believe many users of these forums, the frequent kind may or may not know what they are talking about in regards to water cooling and electronic pumps. I also believe there exists a magical creature known as a search engine, which can link people who are not knowledgeable, and maybe not immediately inclined towards skepticism without proof. Sure, the internet has people posting wrong stuff on it all the time, and I can't change that, but I sure can correct your false statements on this forum. You have now elevated yourself to moderator status, and you know better than everyone in this thread? A dangerous game to play after already being wrong and caught in bad assumptions 3 times in 5 pages.

tl;dr; it could very well be your fault, or as I had already stated, you might be the unluckiest guy in the world, the antithesis of a lottery winner, in which case I feel sorry for your frustrations with your computer, but it is still far more likely something else is causing the problem.

Sorry guy, it is the truth.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Hey all,

Just a report back from my previous post regarding using the H220 rad with Cougar fans to cool the following:

I7 3820 @4.4 - EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi CSQ
ASUS GTX 670 DCU II 4GB in TRI-SLI - EK Nickle Plexi blocks
Bitspower fittings, and 250mm Res and Pump Top
Tygon E-1000 tubing (meh)
Swiftech 655 PWM Pump



This is on a *Asus RIVF* and *16GB of Corsair Domi @ 2133*. I am using Cool Labs TIM for the 3820. Also using an *EVGA 1000 G2 PSU*. The PSU is supplying extra power to the PCI-E lanes using the 4-pin on the motherboard. I'm still not sure where the threshold is for needing to use the extra PCI-E power, but I figured that it certainly wouldn't hurt. I also do not know if that extra juice effects temps for the GPU's.

So here are the results so far. _I still need to make time to test the stock H220 fans for reference as Bryan asked. I will try and do that today or tonight._

Heaven benchmark all out on a 1920 x 1080. I normally bench with nVidia Surround (5760 x 1080) as that is what I use for 80% of games and hence why I have three 4GB GPU models.



The temps (below) reflect true idle, and one bench session (however long a single run of Heaven is). _However_, last night, the temps never rose above *63C for CPU* and *60C for the 3 GPU's* after many hours of benching with *AIDA* Extreme CPU/FPU test, *Heaven*, *BF3* in Ultra setting across the board including highest AA, *Cyrsis 3* with everything on as well, and a few others. I don't trust Kompressor with tri-SLI because it doesn't natively support it out of the box without some tweaking.











Once I have a chance to use the Swiftech Helix fans I'll post those results as well. I suspect that because most test results I am reading see a slight (~2-3C) decrease in temps with the Cougars as compared the the Helix in apples to apples fan tests, and the fact that I do not have 2 more Helix fans to test in P/P configuration, that the temps will be pretty unacceptable... But you never know. Even the most basic science experiment emit surprises now and then.


----------



## EarlZ

If you could have been that constructive earlier with out attacking anyone and being more detailed and helpful in your post all of this could have been avoided but I guess you needed to sound superior in these forums. You are so quick to say that you are only pointing out the flaws in what I said but you failed to realize the flaws of your own claims and blaming that those who had multiple failures are cause by user error and anyone who reads that before you decided to make a detailed list of what your 'user error' entails to.

You are so detailed to attack and belittle anyone who does not believe that the 3% is a low figure but never gave enough time to even help out or consider even consider saying that it might be a faulty PWM splitter and ect and why are you so affected that the 3% value for me is high, that is my opinion but you dont see my attacking anyone or telling anyone not to get the product. For someone who experienced 2 issues with the unit the failure rate for me is high, thats an automatic 100%. Bram has been in constant communication with me and he believes that the new impeller will fix the issue that I have and it either caused by a trapped air bubble/friction on the old impeller.

Its funny how you come up with a random number on my assumptions when you assumed that there was no Impeller change ( which you also watered down your own claims ) but the worse part is accusing those who had issues as a user error.

But enough of that, helping those with issues might be best thing to do rather then defending the 3% number.

tl;dr; You could have helped us by being more detailed and precise in your post or even say that a trapped air bubble is not mean the product is faulty just a flaw in the impeller design but you decided to take the other route and had other priorities


----------



## EarlZ

-double post-


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> Installed my new H320 tonight. Super quiet at max load. Got the fans plugged into the splitter. Has anyone seen any noticeable difference in temps running the pull config vs push/pull? I only have Scythe AP15's and 29's nothing else PWM.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Hey! Is that the Maximus V Formula? I was worried about how my ram would fit with my recent arrival of the H320 and my Maximus V Formula board. Do you notice any stress on the ram from the tubing? I really dont want to take two of my sticks out to make it fit.


----------



## EarlZ

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just a report back from my previous post regarding using the H220 rad with Cougar fans to cool the following:
> 
> I7 3820 @4.4 - EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi CSQ
> ASUS GTX 670 DCU II 4GB in TRI-SLI - EK Nickle Plexi blocks
> Bitspower fittings, and 250mm Res and Pump Top
> Tygon E-1000 tubing (meh)
> Swiftech 655 PWM Pump
> 
> 
> 
> This is on a *Asus RIVF* and *16GB of Corsair Domi @ 2133*. I am using Cool Labs TIM for the 3820. Also using an *EVGA 1000 G2 PSU*. The PSU is supplying extra power to the PCI-E lanes using the 4-pin on the motherboard. I'm still not sure where the threshold is for needing to use the extra PCI-E power, but I figured that it certainly wouldn't hurt. I also do not know if that extra juice effects temps for the GPU's.
> 
> So here are the results so far. _I still need to make time to test the stock H220 fans for reference as Bryan asked. I will try and do that today or tonight._
> 
> Heaven benchmark all out on a 1920 x 1080. I normally bench with nVidia Surround (5760 x 1080) as that is what I use for 80% of games and hence why I have three 4GB GPU models.
> 
> 
> 
> The temps (below) reflect true idle, and one bench session (however long a single run of Heaven is). _However_, last night, the temps never rose above *63C for CPU* and *60C for the 3 GPU's* after many hours of benching with *AIDA* Extreme CPU/FPU test, *Heaven*, *BF3* in Ultra setting across the board including highest AA, *Cyrsis 3* with everything on as well, and a few others. I don't trust Kompressor with tri-SLI because it doesn't natively support it out of the box without some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I have a chance to use the Swiftech Helix fans I'll post those results as well. I suspect that because most test results I am reading see a slight (~2-3C) decrease in temps with the Cougars as compared the the Helix in apples to apples fan tests, and the fact that I do not have 2 more Helix fans to test in P/P configuration, that the temps will be pretty unacceptable... But you never know. Even the most basic science experiment emit surprises now and then.






Impressive results! I know that the 670's run very cool but even with the 120x2 radiator and you still manage to get that kind of temps.. makes me so tempted to watercool my 780s and even add another 120x2 but I would guess the different pump that you are using compared to the stock H220 is making a huge difference ?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> If you could have been that constructive earlier with out attacking anyone and being more detailed and helpful in your post all of this could have been avoided but I guess you needed to sound superior in these forums. You are so quick to say that you are only pointing out the flaws in what I said but you failed to realize the flaws of your own claims and blaming that those who had multiple failures are cause by user error and anyone who reads that before you decided to make a detailed list of what your 'user error' entails to.
> 
> You are so detailed to attack and belittle anyone who does not believe that the 3% is a low figure but never gave enough time to even help out or consider even consider saying that it might be a faulty PWM splitter and ect and why are you so affected that the 3% value for me is high, that is my opinion but you dont see my attacking anyone or telling anyone not to get the product. For someone who experienced 2 issues with the unit the failure rate for me is high, thats an automatic 100%. Bram has been in constant communication with me and he believes that the new impeller will fix the issue that I have and it either caused by a trapped air bubble/friction on the old impeller.
> 
> Its funny how you come up with a random number on my assumptions when you assumed that there was no Impeller change ( which you also watered down your own claims ) but the worse part is accusing those who had issues as a user error.
> 
> But enough of that, helping those with issues might be best thing to do rather then defending the 3% number.
> 
> tl;dr; You could have helped us by being more detailed and precise in your post or even say that a trapped air bubble is not mean the product is faulty just a flaw in the impeller design but you decided to take the other route and had other priorities


I'm done with this. You continue to put words in my mouth, because you assume I blamed all users with multiple failures for their own problems, go back and read what I said.

I could continue to refute your arguments but it doesn't matter, you got offended because I implied the fault with your units continuing to break might not lie at Swiftech. I am sorry you don't understand that those implications don't necessarily point directly to your ego.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> 
> Impressive results! I know that the 670's run very cool but even with the 120x2 radiator and you still manage to get that kind of temps.. makes me so tempted to watercool my 780s and even add another 120x2 but I would guess the different pump that you are using compared to the stock H220 is making a huge difference ?


Once you have sufficient flow for the loop, the additional power is essentially wasted, it was one of the main selling points of the H220 pump vs the Liang in the AD2. For most small loops where the pump on the block makes sense, the Liang was far too powerful and pricey because you only needed the first 40% of the power for the loop.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I'm done with this. You continue to put words in my mouth, because you assume I blamed all users with multiple failures for their own problems, go back and read what I said.
> 
> I could continue to refute your arguments but it doesn't matter, you got offended because I implied the fault with your units continuing to break might not lie at Swiftech. I am sorry you don't understand that those implications don't necessarily point directly to your ego.


Clearly you are not done with it as you continue to take pot shtos, clearly your post was referred to everyone who had multiple failures with the pump irregardless of how much you deny, that is how you conveyed the message.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Once you have sufficient flow for the loop, the additional power is essentially wasted, it was one of the main selling points of the H220 pump vs the Liang in the AD2. For most small loops where the pump on the block makes sense, the Liang was far too powerful and pricey because you only needed the first 40% of the power for the loop.


So would you say that If i decided to expand the loop on the future with the 780's included the stock H220 pump should still be more than sufficient even after adding say another 120x2 rad ?


----------



## B3L13V3R

It's plenty powerful enough for 2 graphics cards of almost any make as long as the case has ample airflow for the extra heat dissipation / throw-off that the blocks do not capture. GPU's do well underwater but they still toss out more energy than anything else in the case.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> It's plenty powerful enough for 2 graphics cards of almost any make as long as the case has ample airflow for the extra heat dissipation / throw-off that the blocks do not capture. GPU's do well underwater but they still toss out more energy than anything else in the case.


I am also wondering if I can get away with just adding 1x 120mm rad on the rear exhaust and still keep the GPU temps at less than 70c in full load.


----------



## Avonosac

Both of my loops have 2 220 radiators in them, and have a GPU, temps are great with the pump running at less than half PWM, I would not see how you would have an issue adding a second graphics card... After that you might have issues adding the additional blocks into the loop.


----------



## EarlZ

Since I am using an mATX casing/board I will be limited to 2 cards. I'll consider the GPU blocks when they become locally available.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Did you read through my posts?


I did, but i probably won't be reading thru your walls of text anymore, the condescending tone of them rubs me the wrong way. Here's some constructive feedback for you. If you want to help people, if you can get your points across without the politely worded insults, that would help.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> last night, the temps never rose above *63C for CPU* and *60C for the 3 GPU's* after many hours of benching with *AIDA* Extreme CPU/FPU test, *Heaven*, *BF3* in Ultra setting across the board including highest AA, *Cyrsis 3* with everything on as well, and a few others


Wow...impressive that one h220 rad can shed the heat of all those devices!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Yes, really surprised as well... I keep running various tests and can't seem to break the results. All very consistent. Don't forget that the EK blocks are spectacular when installed correctly and the right TIM is used and applied the way this particular system likes it. I don't think this is perfect either. I could potentially be more precise with TIM application.

This was the actual score with 3 cards as well, just to give an idea of what the system was doing under the load described.



Now I need to toss the stock fans on and see what happens.


----------



## Robilar

I just picked up an H220. Question, are the stock fans good enough or would it be better to go with a pair of fans like the Corsair SP120's?

I have a 30w per channel fan controller so fan noise can easily be controlled. From the comments here, there is no benefit to push pull, so I am just going with two intake fans.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I just picked up an H220. Question, are the stock fans good enough or would it be better to go with a pair of fans like the Corsair SP120's?
> 
> I have a 30w per channel fan controller so fan noise can easily be controlled. From the comments here, there is no benefit to push pull, so I am just going with two intake fans.
> 
> Thanks


The stock fans should be fine, but being that they're PWM you shouldn't use them with a voltage regulated fan controller. If you want to use voltage regulated fans then you're going to need to get other ones for use with your fan controller.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I just picked up an H220. Question, are the stock fans good enough or would it be better to go with a pair of fans like the Corsair SP120's?
> 
> I have a 30w per channel fan controller so fan noise can easily be controlled. From the comments here, there is no benefit to push pull, so I am just going with two intake fans.
> 
> Thanks


personally I found the stock helix fans to be lacking. GT Ap-15s were a huge improvement (as far as fans go).


----------



## fifty

hey guys, im on the club (erm will be next monday probably when i'll receive mine), h220 for me, will be adding a wb for my gigabyte 770 gtx, but i can only add an universal gpu due to the card incompatibility.
just some question, is the 240 rad fine for cpu+gpu or shall i add a thin 120/140 rad?
also are enermax cluster a good choice for the rad (any other suggestions are welcome, i checked and might consider wingboost/eloop and perhaps corsair sp but i read those are noisy from this thread?)
Are 19/13 tube (xspc or other brand) compatible with the h220 fittings?
also which liquid do i have to use with the loop as soon as i have expanded it?
thank you all.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> hey guys, im on the club (erm will be next monday probably when i'll receive mine), h220 for me, will be adding a wb for my gigabyte 770 gtx, but i can only add an universal gpu due to the card incompatibility.
> just some question, is the 240 rad fine for cpu+gpu or shall i add a thin 120/140 rad?
> also are enermax cluster a good choice for the rad (any other suggestions are welcome, i checked and might consider wingboost/eloop and perhaps corsair sp but i read those are noisy from this thread?)
> Are 19/13 tube (xspc or other brand) compatible with the h220 fittings?
> also which liquid do i have to use with the loop as soon as i have expanded it?
> thank you all.


1.I added an extra 120mm thin radiator to my 2500k+670 and temps never exceed 45-47c on either during heavy gaming sessions. More rads will always help in a numerous amount of ways but I was taught 360mm worth is fine for a cpu/gpu combo.

2. Gentle Typhoons are one of the more popular picks for rad fans, I enjoy my Noctua F12s personally. Don't touch the Corsairs, I have em for my second rig and they're pretty loud if you have a less insulated case, they have reducers but it kills the performance of the fan. I'll let someone else address the Enermaxs, I've never used them personally.

3. 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD is what I use for the tubing by XSPC

4. Liquid is user preference, I have a silver cap on a 1/4" plug for the resevoir that takes care of the build up and just use plain distilled water. You can use others though but a lot of people stick with distilled unless it's for show or your willing to do the upkeep with the different premade liquids.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Selk I have tried to help you before, but as you said there have been issues. I still believe your motherboard or power supply might be doing something funny to your pumps. It isn't necessarily "you're" fault in a finger pointing kind of way, it just is a fault of the hardware you are using the units with, as I stated I believe Swiftech does need to beef up the electronics on this unit a bit, because other than the impeller catching a bubble and not letting it go, the electronics are the other only notable point of failure.


I have seen people with a similar setup to mine with my motherboard or PSU that use the h220 and have 0 problems. I don't think that my hardware has anything to do with it honestly, the pump RPM's are at a standard level according to others configurations and only 1 of my incidents could have even possibly been caused by hardware. 1st. DOA 2nd. Air Bubble 3rd. Died while the PC was off and being moved gently across the house. The 3rd is the only one that could have been a hardware issue and the PC was off and the PSU not powered. I appreciate you trying to help me in the past and this was no way an attack at you I was just stating that I don't believe that these dead pumps and issues are necessarily hardware or user issues. Some yes, but some people are very unlucky it seems.


----------



## M3TAl

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just a report back from my previous post regarding using the H220 rad with Cougar fans to cool the following:
> 
> I7 3820 @4.4 - EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi CSQ
> ASUS GTX 670 DCU II 4GB in TRI-SLI - EK Nickle Plexi blocks
> Bitspower fittings, and 250mm Res and Pump Top
> Tygon E-1000 tubing (meh)
> Swiftech 655 PWM Pump
> 
> 
> 
> This is on a *Asus RIVF* and *16GB of Corsair Domi @ 2133*. I am using Cool Labs TIM for the 3820. Also using an *EVGA 1000 G2 PSU*. The PSU is supplying extra power to the PCI-E lanes using the 4-pin on the motherboard. I'm still not sure where the threshold is for needing to use the extra PCI-E power, but I figured that it certainly wouldn't hurt. I also do not know if that extra juice effects temps for the GPU's.
> 
> So here are the results so far. _I still need to make time to test the stock H220 fans for reference as Bryan asked. I will try and do that today or tonight._
> 
> Heaven benchmark all out on a 1920 x 1080. I normally bench with nVidia Surround (5760 x 1080) as that is what I use for 80% of games and hence why I have three 4GB GPU models.
> 
> 
> 
> The temps (below) reflect true idle, and one bench session (however long a single run of Heaven is). _However_, last night, the temps never rose above *63C for CPU* and *60C for the 3 GPU's* after many hours of benching with *AIDA* Extreme CPU/FPU test, *Heaven*, *BF3* in Ultra setting across the board including highest AA, *Cyrsis 3* with everything on as well, and a few others. I don't trust Kompressor with tri-SLI because it doesn't natively support it out of the box without some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I have a chance to use the Swiftech Helix fans I'll post those results as well. I suspect that because most test results I am reading see a slight (~2-3C) decrease in temps with the Cougars as compared the the Helix in apples to apples fan tests, and the fact that I do not have 2 more Helix fans to test in P/P configuration, that the temps will be pretty unacceptable... But you never know. Even the most basic science experiment emit surprises now and then.






Did you test with 2 Cougars or 4? Since you only have 2 Helix's wouldn't it be best to compare using only 2 fans for both setups?

Really interested to see how your results will compare to mine on a single Kuhler 620 rad.


----------



## Robilar

Which way do the fans blow preinstalled? Pull or push through the rad?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Which way do the fans blow preinstalled? Pull or push through the rad?


In their stock configuration they are set to push air through the rad.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 
> Did you test with 2 Cougars or 4? Since you only have 2 Helix's wouldn't it be best to compare using only 2 fans for both setups?
> 
> Really interested to see how your results will compare to mine on a single Kuhler 620 rad.


My tests are for very selfish purposes. In fact, I am only doing the Helix fans because Bryan asked. Setting that up right now...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> My tests are for very selfish purposes. In fact, I am only doing the Helix fans because Bryan asked. Setting that up right now...


I really appreciate that by the way.


----------



## B3L13V3R

OK... so... Here are your results for using the default rad / fan configuration from the H220:



I did the same tests as mentioned in my *earlier post*

These are the AIDA only temps CPU / GPU. If I would have let this go to 30 minutes, I don't know where it would have leveled but she was rising steadily as you can see from the graph:



Here are the temps from gaming:



So the CPU temps just simply pegged-out at *62C* no matter what I threw at it. These were almost the same kind of results I was seeing with two of these cards in SLI and the H220 AIO pump / block config in an open Corsair 650D. I could not close the case due the heat output of the cards and the lack of airflow. Very sad.... Of course, I would not close the case with *THIS* config either without amazing, quiet airflow through the case.

This test was not to find out how long I could run Prime 95 or any other synthetic. In fact, these days, I rarely read those articles due to the fact that if I built a system based on synthetic results, I would be sorely disappointed in the results. How do I know?? Just ask me how it went after reading and watching as much as I could consume about building a newer high-end system, and the results after doing that last year...

These tests were simply to show how a stable, real world computer could use the little rad while I wait on a 480 (that I can't yet afford) to arrive in the midst of my working on modding this old Lian Li V2000. So grats to *Swiftech* for making an outstanding performing little radiator (and AIO for that matter!). The numbers don't lie, and the pics back it up.









What do you guys think?


----------



## Robilar

Just finished installing mine, doing some initial test runs with IBT.

CPU at 4.3, RAM at stock 1600mhz, VCore at 1.176

Very impressive temps. I plan to move the cpu up to 4.5 next and continue forward.

The pump makes a faint clicking noise but I can only hear it when the case is open and near it. Otherwise my other fans overpower it.

As you can see from pic #2, I have about 3mm clearance between my 10.5" video cards and the fan. Fits perfectly









http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/temp_zps97a9d27c.jpg.html

http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01307_zps49d5dd2c.jpg.html

http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01313_zps63e88c89.jpg.html


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Just finished installing mine, doing some initial test runs with IBT.
> 
> CPU at 4.3, RAM at stock 1600mhz, VCore at 1.176
> 
> Very impressive temps. I plan to move the cpu up to 4.5 next and continue forward.
> 
> The pump makes a faint clicking noise but I can only hear it when the case is open and near it. Otherwise my other fans overpower it.
> 
> As you can see from pic #2, I have about 3mm clearance between my 10.5" video cards and the fan. Fits perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/temp_zps97a9d27c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01307_zps49d5dd2c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01313_zps63e88c89.jpg.html


Wow... Talk about close quarters!


----------



## fasterhoads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> is that a corsair 800d? I'm thinking aboutgetting that or a Silverstone tj11 if I save up the money lol


It is a 900D and I absolutely love it.


----------



## fasterhoads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Hey! Is that the Maximus V Formula? I was worried about how my ram would fit with my recent arrival of the H320 and my Maximus V Formula board. Do you notice any stress on the ram from the tubing? I really dont want to take two of my sticks out to make it fit.


It is a Maximus Extreme V so it is probably the same layout. One hose is a little snug but I think it's ok. I might go ahead and lengthen the one hose later on but for now it is ok.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Just finished installing mine, doing some initial test runs with IBT.
> 
> CPU at 4.3, RAM at stock 1600mhz, VCore at 1.176
> 
> Very impressive temps. I plan to move the cpu up to 4.5 next and continue forward.
> 
> The pump makes a faint clicking noise but I can only hear it when the case is open and near it. Otherwise my other fans overpower it.
> 
> As you can see from pic #2, I have about 3mm clearance between my 10.5" video cards and the fan. Fits perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/temp_zps97a9d27c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01307_zps49d5dd2c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01313_zps63e88c89.jpg.html


You could mount the fans in the front outside of the case. This way you have clearance. Also the mounting of the pump I would go with tubing north/south position and have it closer to the rear, to give less of bend in the tubing.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> What do you guys think?


I think its nice to see evidence of just how badass the gear in this AIO cooler really is


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You could mount the fans in the front outside of the case. This way you have clearance. Also the mounting of the pump I would go with tubing north/south position and have it closer to the rear, to give less of bend in the tubing.


I tried it that alignment but the Sabertooth has high ridges around the cpu area that banged into one of the hoses.

Also, I have fans on the outside, currently running push pull with air exhausting out the front of the case.

The 200 mm up top is intake pushing down on gpu's, 120mm rear exhaust. Seems to be working pretty well.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think its nice to see evidence of just how badass the gear in this AIO cooler really is


Yeah, true. The only thing I didn't mention was that the 2 Helix fans are *louder* than 4 of the Cougars as well. They don't seem to need to work so hard. Not sure really, but it is evident that the stock H220 fans may not have the same static pressure, even if the flow is more.

Bryan can weigh in on this probably.


----------



## Robilar

Does anyone know offhand, if the stock fans that come with the Corsair H80i would be better than the stock fans on the H220 for intake? I have a spare set and was thinking of giving them a try. I know their specs but not sure what the H220 fans specs look like in comparison.

Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20

What I could find on the Swiftech fans:

1800 RPM
Static Pressure: 0.53 ~ 2.29 mmH20
55 CFM
33 Dba


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> OK... so... Here are your results for using the default rad / fan configuration from the H220:
> 
> 
> 
> I did the same tests as mentioned in my *earlier post*
> 
> These are the AIDA only temps CPU / GPU. If I would have let this go to 30 minutes, I don't know where it would have leveled but she was rising steadily as you can see from the graph:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the temps from gaming:
> 
> 
> 
> So the CPU temps just simply pegged-out at *62C* no matter what I threw at it. These were almost the same kind of results I was seeing with two of these cards in SLI and the H220 AIO pump / block config in an open Corsair 650D. I could not close the case due the heat output of the cards and the lack of airflow. Very sad.... Of course, I would not close the case with *THIS* config either without amazing, quiet airflow through the case.
> 
> This test was not to find out how long I could run Prime 95 or any other synthetic. In fact, these days, I rarely read those articles due to the fact that if I built a system based on synthetic results, I would be sorely disappointed in the results. How do I know?? Just ask me how it went after reading and watching as much as I could consume about building a newer high-end system, and the results after doing that last year...
> 
> These tests were simply to show how a stable, real world computer could use the little rad while I wait on a 480 (that I can't yet afford) to arrive in the midst of my working on modding this old Lian Li V2000. So grats to *Swiftech* for making an outstanding performing little radiator (and AIO for that matter!). The numbers don't lie, and the pics back it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


Hardware Monitor is not a very accurate tool. Hardware Information Monitor is considered more accurate by most seasoned overclockers.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Does anyone know offhand, if the stock fans that come with the Corsair H80i would be better than the stock fans on the H220 for intake? I have a spare set and was thinking of giving them a try. I know their specs but not sure what the H220 fans specs look like in comparison.
> 
> Fan speed: 2700 RPM
> Fan airflow: 77 CFM
> Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20
> 
> What I could find on the Swiftech fans:
> 
> 1800 RPM
> Static Pressure: 0.53 ~ 2.29 mmH20
> 55 CFM
> 33 Dba


With the H220 it has low FPI of 13, H80i is 17-19. H220 dont need much Static Pressure to cool the rad. CFM will do more to help cool. If you run the H80i fans at the same speed as Helix, it would be basically the same, but louder.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the H220 it has low FPI of 13, H80i is 17-19. H220 dont need much Static Pressure to cool the rad. CFM will do more to help cool. If you run the H80i fans at the same speed as Helix, it would be basically the same, but louder.


Thanks, as long as they are equal or better, I can use them. They Helix fans just fit inside my case but I think the Corsair's might have too much depth because of their flared corners.


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> WOW! Nice! Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post some pix after. BTW, Have you tested for temps already?


Here is my fully blown H220 setup (for all the talk about failure, mine been working since mid Feb; original design)
.
H220 is cooling CPU, Motherboard, 2x 7950 EKWB, Swiftech MCR-360rad, 240rad(h220), Swiftech MCR-140rad. Also used a Swiftech Micro Res. V.2. Using Primochill LRT tubing and Compression fittings.


----------



## thelude

Here are the temps after some initial testing.

Running Prime95 and Play Crysis 3 on Max settings 1920x1080 with 4x MSAA for about 30 minutes

*STOCK:*
CPU: 3.9ghz @ 50-55 degree
2xGPU: 900mhz @ 45-50 degree

*Overclock:*
CPU: 4.7ghz @ 80-85 degree
2xGPU: 1050mhz @ 55-60 degree


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yeah, true. The only thing I didn't mention was that the 2 Helix fans are *louder* than 4 of the Cougars as well. They don't seem to need to work so hard. Not sure really, but it is evident that the stock H220 fans may not have the same static pressure, even if the flow is more.
> 
> Bryan can weigh in on this probably.


Really? It was the opposite for me. Although I tested noise in open air and not on a radiator.

In my experience the Cougar fans move more air at the same RPM, thus more air/turbulence noise at equivalent RPM's. Cougars are still quiet, quality fans though. I really like them. Just painted 8 of them white to match my theme.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Hardware Monitor is not a very accurate tool. Hardware Information Monitor is considered more accurate by most seasoned overclockers.


Yeah man, there are at least 7 different tools out there that all read 1C different from each other. If you'll notice, I didn't use ONE tool...









Be sure to read the _*purpose*_ of the test so you understand the whole picture.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Thanks, as long as they are equal or better, I can use them. They Helix fans just fit inside my case but I think the Corsair's might have too much depth because of their flared corners.


As long all 4 fans are the same.


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> 1.I added an extra 120mm thin radiator to my 2500k+670 and temps never exceed 45-47c on either during heavy gaming sessions. More rads will always help in a numerous amount of ways but I was taught 360mm worth is fine for a cpu/gpu combo.
> 
> 2. Gentle Typhoons are one of the more popular picks for rad fans, I enjoy my Noctua F12s personally. Don't touch the Corsairs, I have em for my second rig and they're pretty loud if you have a less insulated case, they have reducers but it kills the performance of the fan. I'll let someone else address the Enermaxs, I've never used them personally.
> 
> 3. 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD is what I use for the tubing by XSPC
> 
> 4. Liquid is user preference, I have a silver cap on a 1/4" plug for the resevoir that takes care of the build up and just use plain distilled water. You can use others though but a lot of people stick with distilled unless it's for show or your willing to do the upkeep with the different premade liquids.


thank you a lot!
just 1 more question, since im probably going to expand, for what i understand, the important thing is the internal diameter for tubing, in this case 3/8 (in mm 13), can i go for 3/8ID and 1/2 OD (19mm)? (nvm figured out the ID isn't 13 mm but 10 mm, so no go, but well, the size is not too thin for the looking own part







)
lso i read about all those failure here, my pc runs 24/7 and most of the time i'm not on my desk, in case of failure will my pc blown up







? if so is there anything i can do to prevent this and make the pc shut down itself?
thanks again


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

id be interested in a fail safe too.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> thank you a lot!
> just 1 more question, since im probably going to expand, for what i understand, the important thing is the internal diameter for tubing, in this case 3/8 (in mm 13), can i go for 3/8ID and 1/2 OD (19mm)? (nvm figured out the ID isn't 13 mm but 10 mm, so no go, but well, the size is not too thin for the looking own part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> lso i read about all those failure here, my pc runs 24/7 and most of the time i'm not on my desk, in case of failure will my pc blown up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? if so is there anything i can do to prevent this and make the pc shut down itself?
> thanks again


Most modern motherboards within 6-7 years have a failsafe that shuts down the system on thermal failure. You shouldn't have to worry about walking away for 12-24 hours. Starting and stopping mechanical devices puts a bit more ware every cycle no matter what it is (certainly with a few exemptions), so I leave my system on 24/7 as well.


----------



## Robilar

I am going to be running all my fans off a controller. Can I just plug the pump into the cpu fan connector on the motherboard for it to manage pump speed via PWM?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Here is my fully blown H220 setup (for all the talk about failure, mine been working since mid Feb; original design)
> .
> H220 is cooling CPU, Motherboard, 2x 7950 EKWB, Swiftech MCR-360rad, 240rad(h220), Swiftech MCR-140rad. Also used a Swiftech Micro Res. V.2. Using Primochill LRT tubing and Compression fittings.


That's about the nicest H220 loop that I've seen yet. Well done!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> It is a Maximus Extreme V so it is probably the same layout. One hose is a little snug but I think it's ok. I might go ahead and lengthen the one hose later on but for now it is ok.


How can it be the extreme if you have hoses going to the mobo block? I thought the formula line were the only boards with buit in barbs.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> thank you a lot!
> just 1 more question, since im probably going to expand, for what i understand, the important thing is the internal diameter for tubing, in this case 3/8 (in mm 13), can i go for 3/8ID and 1/2 OD (19mm)? (nvm figured out the ID isn't 13 mm but 10 mm, so no go, but well, the size is not too thin for the looking own part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> lso i read about all those failure here, my pc runs 24/7 and most of the time i'm not on my desk, in case of failure will my pc blown up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? if so is there anything i can do to prevent this and make the pc shut down itself?
> thanks again


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> id be interested in a fail safe too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Most modern motherboards within 6-7 years have a failsafe that shuts down the system on thermal failure. You shouldn't have to worry about walking away for 12-24 hours. Starting and stopping mechanical devices puts a bit more ware every cycle no matter what it is (certainly with a few exemptions), so I leave my system on 24/7 as well.


This. Besides you can use coretemp (and config it to start up with your OS) and the use the option / setting in it to set a shut down temp to your liking.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How can it be the extreme if you have hoses going to the mobo block? I thought the formula line were the only boards with buit in barbs.


Look closer, its the extreme. There are no barbs on or tube going to the mobo. They do look very similar though.


----------



## gdubc

I am lucky to live on the side of town that isn't flooding.


----------



## Ryld Baenre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's about the nicest H220 loop that I've seen yet. Well done!


this.

Thelude, that is an awesome set up your have there. Hopefully I can get my 800D looking that nice in the next couple months. Just need to add a 2nd 670 and I'll be ready to expand.

Kings to you sir.


----------



## SleazyC

My pump has been noisy or the past week or so. Previously it had done this and cleared itself up but now it seems to just be a consistent noise. At this point I don't really want to go through the hassle of draining it, or replacing the impeller, or even RMA'ing it. I figure I'll see if the thing breaks down, because right now it's making a bit of an annoying noise but I can't really hear it whenever I'm playing games so it's not a big deal.

What do most peoples pump's run at? Since swapping out my broken PWM splitter my pump seems to idle in the high 1700RPMs, keeping my CPU idling at about 30-34C. My load temps are usually right around 60C and I don't recall what the pump's RPM is at that point but I am wondering if my pump is working harder than it should at idle. I have a modest overclock of 4.3GHz at about 1.24V.


----------



## EarlZ

Bram says its either a trapped air bubble or the impeller making contact with the housing and should not damage anything. Since in do not have a spare heatsink i am still using it atm and the noise is louder than my gpu fans at 100% so i decided to keep it at under 2000 rpm.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


I have spent hours sanding down the vrm that interferes with proper seating of my waterblock and it still is not seating properly.
Can you guarantee compatibilty with the Asus 990FX Sabertooth Release 2.0 ? I cant't go through this a second time.


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm curious about the frequency of pump noise problems with the apogee drive II?

That pump is obviously way waaaay overkill for a single rad loop, but still, the reported problems with the h220 pump make me wonder about the apogee as potential solution (albeit a pretty darn expensive one).

I'm really rooting for swiftech to get the h220 pump rock solid. The composition of that kit is just so nice.


----------



## EarlZ

As per Bram, the new impeller resolves the pump noise issue and even makes the trapped bubbles easier to release as compared to the older impeller which makes some bubbles really hard or close to impossible to dislodge.

Though what I am more curios about is how it suddenly gets an air bubble trapped or the impeller making contact with the housing if it was running fine for a couple of weeks with nothing change.. could a defective/problematic PWM splitter cause this ?

Another thing, as the liquid inside the loop gets hotter the noise goes away.. I've posted this before though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Oh man.. I didn't even think about shipping being a problem, though I know from past experience it can easily be. Had lots of iPhone screens show up to my door cracked...
> 
> As for the new impeller design, I think there is a lot more behind the redesign than we think, and I honestly think that some of the differences to it are to refute Asetek's patent claims...


no aseteks claims are about AIO, Air cooling and water loops ( open ) basically they have patients on all types of cooling.... like another company with a fruity logo/company
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> 1.I added an extra 120mm thin radiator to my 2500k+670 and temps never exceed 45-47c on either during heavy gaming sessions. More rads will always help in a numerous amount of ways but I was taught 360mm worth is fine for a cpu/gpu combo.
> 
> 2. Gentle Typhoons are one of the more popular picks for rad fans, I enjoy my Noctua F12s personally. Don't touch the Corsairs, I have em for my second rig and they're pretty loud if you have a less insulated case, they have reducers but it kills the performance of the fan. I'll let someone else address the Enermaxs, I've never used them personally.
> 
> 3. 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD is what I use for the tubing by XSPC
> 
> 4. Liquid is user preference, I have a silver cap on a 1/4" plug for the resevoir that takes care of the build up and just use plain distilled water. You can use others though but a lot of people stick with distilled unless it's for show or your willing to do the upkeep with the different premade liquids.



not to mention 99% of dye are made from solids....


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's about the nicest H220 loop that I've seen yet. Well done!


Thanks for the kind words Bram


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no aseteks claims are about AIO, Air cooling and water loops ( open ) basically they have patients on all types of cooling.... like another company with a fruity logo/company
> 
> not to mention 99% of dye are made from solids....


True, but one of the "patents" that Asetek claims the Swiftech H220 infringes upon is about a reservoir inside the pump, though Asetek's vague description of such reservoir includes internal pieces of the pump necessary for it to run, that are not reservoirs obviously.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Long Beach, CA July 19th, 2013 11:45 PST- Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® today announced the withdrawal from US sales of the H220 CPU cooling kit.
> 
> On June 7 2013, Rouchon Industries Inc., d/b/a/ Swiftech® received a letter from Asetek' s lawyers claiming that the H220 CPU cooler infringes on their US patents 8,240,362 (the '362 patent) and 8,245,764 (the '764 patent) and to cease selling, offering for sale and importing the H220 CPU cooler in the United States. Pending final disposition of this matter, Swiftech® immediately placed a hold on shipments of the H220 CPU cooling kits into the USA.
> 
> On June 27, 2013 Swiftech's counsel responded to Asetek' s attorney by a letter stating that preliminarily, Swiftech® does not believe that the H220 product infringes any valid claim of the '362 and '764 patents. Nonetheless, in an effort to avoid any unnecessary litigation Swiftech® also asked whether Asetek would be willing to offer a nonexclusive license for the asserted patents.
> 
> On July 12, 2013 Swiftech® received a response from Asetek' s law firm stating that the company does not offer licenses.
> 
> Swiftech® continues to firmly assert its position with regards to the alleged infringement as stated in its letter dated June 27, 2013. Nevertheless, in order to avoid litigation the company's management has now made the business decision to withdraw the H220 CPU cooler from the US market.
> Given these circumstances, Swiftech® wants to hereby reassure its US customers that: 1/ it will continue to provide full technical and warranty support for the H220 CPU cooling kits that have been sold in the US, and 2/ the product will continue to be sold in other countries.
> 
> Swiftech® sincerely apologizes to its US customers for this extraordinary situation, the very first in its long history. For the past 15 years, Swiftech® has been at the forefront of technological innovation in this industry, and it will continue to do so. In the words of Gabriel Rouchon, the company's Chairman and CTA: "I want our customers to know and expect with absolute confidence that Swiftech's resourcefulness will once again be brilliantly demonstrated in the immediate future".


links to the patents, etc in following press release: http://www.swiftech.com/pr-7-19-13-h220-removedfromus.aspx


----------



## Ragsters

Are there stoppers on the radiator to keep us from screwing into the rad and causing a leak?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Are there stoppers on the radiator to keep us from screwing into the rad and causing a leak?


None that ive seen/noticed.


----------



## Mega Man

no alphacool only


----------



## EarlZ

Ok to use on the H220 ?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no alphacool only


???


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> ???


only alphacool rads have that stopping feature. I think they have that patented.

But if i remember correctly, the h220 radiator's water channels are not in the way of the screw mounts.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> only alphacool rads have that stopping feature. I think they have that patented.
> 
> But if i remember correctly, the h220 radiator's water channels are not in the way of the screw mounts.


I think I noticed that. Thanks bud!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> only alphacool rads have that stopping feature. I think they have that patented.
> 
> But if i remember correctly, the h220 radiator's water channels are not in the way of the screw mounts.


This. One of the premier unnoticed differences between the mcrx20-qp and the h220/h320 rad is that thewater channels were moved so that overtightened screws cannot puncture the water lines.


----------



## Ragsters

Just tried installing the H320 on my Caselabs Sm8 (Reverse ATX orientation) with no luck. I wanted to install it in the front or top but the included tubing is just not long enough. Dont want to install it at the bottom because of the trap air that could occur. not sure what to do other then buy new tubing.









Edit: Never mind. I think if I rotated 90 degrees it just might work.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Well, the H220 system that I installed about 4 weeks ago has failed! No pump! My son said his system was locking up and freezing then shutting down! Told him to turn it off. Checked it out. No pump RPM or vibration felt! Temp increasing to limit!

It was running via the PWM splitter. It was noisy from the start, so could have been faulty.

I have to buy something ASAP, to get system running again. Might have to get something else, send it back and get a credit, sigh.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Well, the H220 system that I installed about 4 weeks ago has failed! No pump! My son said his system was locking up and freezing then shutting down! Told him to turn it off. Checked it out. No pump RPM or vibration felt! Temp increasing to limit!
> 
> It was running via the PWM splitter. It was noisy from the start, so could have been faulty.
> 
> I have to buy something ASAP, to get system running again. Might have to get something else, send it back and get a credit, sigh.


The opposite happened to me, suddenly got the CPU fan fail alarm and checked the pump... it was reporting zero RPM and the CPU temps gradually increased.. So I directly connected it to my motherboard CPU_FAN header and still nothing, directly connected it with a 3pin to molex converter and still got nothing so I decided to take the block out and tried it again with the splitter and after a couple of retries it was working again.. a few days after the noise started.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Are there stoppers on the radiator to keep us from screwing into the rad and causing a leak?


The radiator is designed so that even if you pierce it, it will not leak. That has been mentioned by Bryan and others here in the past. The fact that no one here has ever reported a leaking radiator seems to back it up.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The radiator is designed so that even if you pierce it, it will not leak. That has been mentioned by Bryan and others here in the past. The fact that no one here has ever reported a leaking radiator seems to back it up.


Thanks bud. I noticed that last night while installing it to my computer. I will post pictures later today.

Quick question for you guys. Should I use the provided Tim2 or MX3?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks bud. I noticed that last night while installing it to my computer. I will post pictures later today.
> 
> Quick question for you guys. Should I use the provided Tim2 or MX3?


The swiftech tim is good stuff.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks bud. I noticed that last night while installing it to my computer. I will post pictures later today.
> 
> Quick question for you guys. Should I use the provided Tim2 or MX3?


I can't properly install the waterblock on my cpu because the Swiftech AMD bracket is poorly designed. I have tried sanding the vrm heatsink but I can't shave enough of it to fit properly. Because of this poor design I will have to spend another $200 on a quality compatible motherboard. I think I made a poor decision going with Swiftech. They had plenty of time to redesign the AMD bracket for greater compatibility.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The radiator is designed so that even if you pierce it, it will not leak. That has been mentioned by Bryan and others here in the past. The fact that no one here has ever reported a leaking radiator seems to back it up.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks bud. I noticed that last night while installing it to my computer. I will post pictures later today.
> 
> Quick question for you guys. Should I use the provided Tim2 or MX3?
Click to expand...

I used Ceramique 2 because it seemed the provided TIM "burned" my water block...and I was running stock speeds. Not saying this is typical, but when I spoke to Swiftech, they left me with the impression: To use what you're comfortable with...it's no biggie.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I can't properly install the waterblock on my cpu because the Swiftech AMD bracket is poorly designed. I have tried sanding the vrm heatsink but I can't shave enough of it to fit properly. Because of this poor design I will have to spend another $200 on a quality compatible motherboard. I think I made a poor decision going with Swiftech. They had plenty of time to redesign the AMD bracket for greater compatibility.


no. have you tryed turning it 180deg there re a few ppl with no issues using this unit. dotn try to reinvent the wheel you can put it at 0 90 180 270 deg .... try each way.

also hate to break it to you it has been said by many reviewers that swiftech has the best mounting system of all coolers

not to mention that all their products are very very well documented with dimensions so that you will be able to know if it will fit


----------



## Ragsters

I just installed the H320. Everything is running good. I just can'r figure out how to turn down the pump speed. I want it at 50%.

PS. Im using the supplied switch and the header to the CPU fan header. I know my board has PWM capability on that header.


----------



## EarlZ

Whats a good case that can fit the H320 on its top, pref ATX size.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I can't properly install the waterblock on my cpu because the Swiftech AMD bracket is poorly designed. I have tried sanding the vrm heatsink but I can't shave enough of it to fit properly. Because of this poor design I will have to spend another $200 on a quality compatible motherboard. I think I made a poor decision going with Swiftech. They had plenty of time to redesign the AMD bracket for greater compatibility.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> 
> I'm not sure which of the Formula boards that it was, but I had a customer a while back complain that he had to file down one side of the AMD bracket in order to get it to fit on his board. he also couldn't turn the block 90 degrees because the fittings wouldn't clear the heat sinks. You can see in the picture where I marked it for where it fowls the ram slot and the heat sink. The lower left part of the AMD mounting bracket is where he had to file it down.


your trying to sand down the HS not the mount, you need to file down the bracket/mount got o brams post then click the image and then click original you will see a big pic of it


----------



## B3L13V3R

This page...


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just installed the H320. Everything is running good. I just can'r figure out how to turn down the pump speed. I want it at 50%.
> 
> PS. Im using the supplied switch and the header to the CPU fan header. I know my board has PWM capability on that header.


your asus board should have settings in the BIOS for fan control.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> your asus board should have settings in the BIOS for fan control.


It does but there is no option for percentage just temperature control.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. have you tryed turning it 180deg there re a few ppl with no issues using this unit. dotn try to reinvent the wheel you can put it at 0 90 180 270 deg .... try each way.
> 
> also hate to break it to you it has been said by many reviewers that swiftech has the best mounting system of all coolers
> 
> not to mention that all their products are very very well documented with dimensions so that you will be able to know if it will fit


The ASUS backplate for the motherboard is rectangular ,not square, so you cant rotate 90° or 270° only 180. 180 rotation is identical with the problems with vrms and rear dimm slot. Like I said the vrms impinges a good 2 to 3 mm. I used emory cloth to sand the vrms coarse grade. I estimate it would take another week of sanding to get the heatsink filed down with a risk of damaging the pcb of the motherboard circuitry just proximal to the vrm. I reallly think if I had a machine shop with a grinder, I could take the bracket put it in a vise and grind off a piece of the bracket that impinges. It would be fast and less risky. I just don't have access to such equipment. Anybody with a Formula Z could never had installed the bracket without some modding to the bracket or some pretty aggressive work on that vrm heatsink. I can see thecorner of the cpu where it is not seating flush that the tim did not spread there. This not some stupidity on my part I paid my very competent local computer tech come in with me for 2 hours. The bracket is completely incmpaible withe Formula Z design. Bond32 and others who installed this on a Formula Z understated the difficulties involved. No one mentioned having to file dowm the vrm heatsink or file down the bracket. If they had I would have opted for a different motherboard when I got the Z in June. My tech doesnot want to remove the vrm heatsink. It is glued on there very firmly. So the sanding process is very cumbersome and slow. I have seen numerous cmounting complaints on this thread and in fact my tech complained about the bracket himself and he is a pro.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The ASUS backplate for the motherboard is rectangular ,not square, so you cant rotate 90° or 270° only 180. 180 rotation is identical with the problems with vrms and rear dimm slot. Like I said the vrms impinges a good 2 to 3 mm. I used emory cloth to sand the vrms coarse grade. I estimate it would take another week of sanding to get the heatsink filed down with a risk of damaging the pcb of the motherboard circuitry just proximal to the vrm. I reallly think if I had a machine shop with a grinder, I could take the bracket put it in a vise and grind off a piece of the bracket that impinges. It would be fast and less risky. I just don't have access to such equipment. Anybody with a Formula Z could never had installed the bracket without some modding to the bracket or some pretty aggressive work on that vrm heatsink. I can see thecorner of the cpu where it is not seating flush that the tim did not spread there. This not some stupidity on my part I paid my very competent local computer tech come in with me for 2 hours. The bracket is completely incmpaible withe Formula Z design. Bond32 and others who installed this on a Formula Z understated the difficulties involved. No one mentioned having to file dowm the vrm heatsink or file down the bracket. If they had I would have opted for a different motherboard when I got the Z in June. My tech doesnot want to remove the vrm heatsink. It is glued on there very firmly. So the sanding process is very cumbersome and slow. I have seen numerous cmounting complaints on this thread and in fact my tech complained about the bracket himself and he is a pro.


your "tech" is the worst tech in the world and needs to be thrown out.

i just got done mounting a water block to it. it was a very easy install that took all of 5 min. it is not glued on there is 6 screws iirc you just have to remove and your done it practically falls off. very easy reinstall toomake sure to clean the NB off. and use some non conductive tim on it . also since you are sanding it i would recommend covering or replacing the thermal pads


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just installed the H320. Everything is running good. I just can'r figure out how to turn down the pump speed. I want it at 50%.
> 
> PS. Im using the supplied switch and the header to the CPU fan header. I know my board has PWM capability on that header.


Use speedfan, you can adjust it accordingly, did it on my H220 when I had it going


----------



## EarlZ

So i got the new impeller and 2 TIMs that Bram sent out for me, will be installing it tomorrow with high hopes it will resolve the issue.






Not sure what that paint is for in one of the blades cant seem to rub it off.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I suspect the paint on the impeller is used by whatever machine balances the impeller at the factory. The paint might let something count RPM's. Impellers on DDC and D5 pumps have similar markings.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I suspect the paint on the impeller is used by whatever machine balances the impeller at the factory. The paint might let something count RPM's. Impellers on DDC and D5 pumps have similar markings.


Good info!


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So i got the new impeller and 2 TIMs that Bram sent out for me, will be installing it tomorrow with high hopes it will resolve the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what that paint is for in one of the blades cant seem to rub it off.


Nice!







I cant wait for your feedback! The store said that they already sent my defective unit back to the supplier. I'm just waiting for my replacement unit now.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So i got the new impeller and 2 TIMs that Bram sent out for me, will be installing it tomorrow with high hopes it will resolve the issue.
> 
> Not sure what that paint is for in one of the blades cant seem to rub it off.


can you post pictures of the inside of the pump and the old impeller? perhaps we can see the point of contact.


----------



## NIK1

My H220 pump just went .The Asus mb just gave a cpu fan error Zero. I checked in the bios and it also showed pump speed cpu fan zero.Dam,everything has been fine and running excellent since I installed it back when the first ones were available at NCIX.CA. in the spring. Can someone please steer me in the right direction on what to do next. To post this here I had to bring out my old Alienware Aroura pc from the closet.Please let me know what you suggest. Thanks...


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So i got the new impeller and 2 TIMs that Bram sent out for me, will be installing it tomorrow with high hopes it will resolve the issue.
> 
> Not sure what that paint is for in one of the blades cant seem to rub it off.
> 
> 
> 
> can you post pictures of the inside of the pump and the old impeller? perhaps we can see the point of contact.
Click to expand...

Will do when I take it apart tomorrow. Im waiting for my biocide to arrive.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So i got the new impeller and 2 TIMs that Bram sent out for me, will be installing it tomorrow with high hopes it will resolve the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what that paint is for in one of the blades cant seem to rub it off.


I sent you a PM response about this, but for others' information as well, the paint is to indicate that the impeller has been properly balanced before being used in a pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H220 pump just went .The Asus mb just gave a cpu fan error Zero. I checked in the bios and it also showed pump speed cpu fan zero.Dam,everything has been fine and running excellent since I installed it back when the first ones were available at NCIX.CA. in the spring. Can someone please steer me in the right direction on what to do next. To post this here I had to bring out my old Alienware Aroura pc from the closet.Please let me know what you suggest. Thanks...


I got your PM and responded with what you'll need to do for RMA support. Let me know if you have any questions or concerns about the process.


----------



## zila

I ordered my H220 on June 28. I received it after the 4th of July holiday. I put it into service on July 25th.

Friday September 13 the pump started ticking when I started the computer. As the day wore on the ticking got progressively worse until the noise was so loud that I had to shut down my computer.
I removed the loop from my rig and disconnected a line with the intention of flushing and bleeding it to see if it was an air bubble causing the problem but that was not to be, much to my surprise I saw a dark oily substance flowing out of the tube and down into the sink. I wasn't expecting this or I would have captured this mess and kept it. There was a burnt smell from it as well. I was very surprised to say the least.

I did flush and bleed the darned thing anyway as I needed to have my computer running but the noise was still there and in fact turned into a constant high pitched whine. You could hear this thing all the way on the other end of the house. The pump was still pumping but you could tell that it was under a strain.

I spent good money on this and expected a much better return for my investment than this. I have since removed this thing and contacted Bram.

This morning I received RMA instructions

High failure rate? I think so. I have a friend that is on his third rma. Now mine is down.

I am very disappointed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I ordered my H220 on June 28. I received it after the 4th of July holiday. I put it into service on July 25th.
> 
> Friday September 13 the pump started ticking when I started the computer. As the day wore on the ticking got progressively worse until the noise was so loud that I had to shut down my computer.
> I removed the loop from my rig and disconnected a line with the intention of flushing and bleeding it to see if it was an air bubble causing the problem but that was not to be, much to my surprise I saw a dark oily substance flowing out of the tube and down into the sink. I wasn't expecting this or I would have captured this mess and kept it. There was a burnt smell from it as well. I was very surprised to say the least.
> 
> I did flush and bleed the darned thing anyway as I needed to have my computer running but the noise was still there and in fact turned into a constant high pitched whine. You could hear this thing all the way on the other end of the house. The pump was still pumping but you could tell that it was under a strain.
> 
> I spent good money on this and expected a much better return for my investment than this. I have since removed this thing and contacted Bram.
> 
> This morning I received RMA instructions
> 
> High failure rate? I think so. I have a friend that is on his third rma. Now mine is down.
> 
> I am very disappointed.


I'm very sorry for the issue that you've had with this kit. We are doing our very best to resolve these issues, and provide the best customer service and support that we can. That being said though, these kinds of issues do happen with all kinds of products. What you'll find though is the difference in the way that companies handle these kinds of issues.

As most of you are aware we have been and continue to be forthcoming with information regarding these issues. We most certainly aren't trying to hide them or run away from them. This is just the way we do business because we're enthusiasts as well. We will continue to treat our customers the way we would want to be treated and appreciate all feedback in regards to this.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm very sorry for the issue that you've had with this kit. We are doing our very best to resolve these issues, and provide the best customer service and support that we can. That being said though, these kinds of issues do happen with all kinds of products. What you'll find though is the difference in the way that companies handle these kinds of issues.
> 
> As most of you are aware we have been and continue to be forthcoming with information regarding these issues. We most certainly aren't trying to hide them or run away from them. This is just the way we do business because we're enthusiasts as well. We will continue to treat our customers the way we would want to be treated and appreciate all feedback in regards to this.


^^ this ^^

Now teach gigabyte some customer service!


----------



## paspasero

Does anyone know if the H220 has long enough tubing that I could mount it on the bottom of a Phantom 530 and still have it reach the CPU?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paspasero*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H220 has long enough tubing that I could mount it on the bottom of a Phantom 530 and still have it reach the CPU?


The issue isn't so much the tubing, but the length of the radiator with the barb fittings at the end of it. This makes the radiator longer than a standard 120x2 fan radiator and therefore you may need to mod your case to get it to fit properly. The tubing should be long enough to reach though so long as you don't have a particularly wide graphics card.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The issue isn't so much the tubing, but the length of the radiator with the barb fittings at the end of it. This makes the radiator longer than a standard 120x2 fan radiator and therefore you may need to mod your case to get it to fit properly. The tubing should be long enough to reach though so long as you don't have a particularly wide graphics card.


even if they are not you can always buy new tubing


----------



## EarlZ

Replacing the Impeller now, pretty tough to open the fill port.. Had to use a coin that would fit occupy most of the space so that I can turn the damned thing.

Finished draining the kit, the amount of dirt inside us just un believable.


----------



## Mega Man

that is why i always use the ones with the allen key not the sloted !~


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Replacing the Impeller now, pretty tough to open the fill port.. Had to use a coin that would fit occupy most of the space so that I can turn the damned thing.
> 
> Finished draining the kit, the amount of dirt inside us just un believable.


Somebody else just posted about how grunged up it was in there too? Flush it out real good. If you can, i'd be interested in pics of the old impeller and the insides of the pump housing.


----------



## EarlZ

Ive taken pictures along the way, will post all of them up when I am done. I have the motor now opened and its extremely surprising to see a lot of solid black particles in there.

I am not entirely sure on how to remove the thing that holds the impeller in place.. pliers perhaps ?


----------



## ez12a

i wonder how much of that is material from either the housing or the impeller from the constant tapping.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i wonder how much of that is material from either the housing or the impeller from the constant tapping.


The housing and impeller looks pretty fine to me with no signs of 'sanding' each other out.. I am currently stuck on how to remove the ceramic washer..


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Received a new unit today (purchased another) to get the system up and running as quick as possible. Sent the broken unit back to dealer.

New one is quiet as a mouse, including the fans, not like the last unit. Hopefully a good sign.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## EarlZ

So I am done with the entire process at the same time my friend who has a long experience with watercooling came by and told me that the black particles are pretty common so he helped me flush out almost everything. We didnt bother opening the pin array anyway.

Its not making the loud noise but it has the watery sound as of now in which I expect it to go away. Will post pictures later on.













I used up a total of 5 filter papers each filter paper getting lesser debris on it. Over all the process was very easy but time consuming. I am just waiting for the watery noise to go away before I close the fill port. Ive been tilting it around and such and added a few drops of distilled water in the process.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> black particles are pretty common so he helped me flush out almost everything


Did you watch under the copper plate, where there are those fine cut copper pins?

When we opened the pump, and changed the impeller, we checked also the copper block plate, and found it almost glogged with that black debris... smaller and larger bits.

Our model was from "early May(?)" production line stuff, and it had still those large debris in it.

After we cleaned the block throughly, it has worked well and quiet...

We are still testing it outside the computer, but so far everything is fine with the pump.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> black particles are pretty common so he helped me flush out almost everything
> 
> 
> 
> Did you watch under the copper plate, where there are those fine cut copper pins?
> 
> When we opened the pump, and changed the impeller, we checked also the copper block plate, and found it almost glogged with that black debris... smaller and larger bits.
> 
> Our model was from "early May(?)" production line stuff, and it had still those large debris in it.
> 
> After we cleaned the block throughly, it has worked well and quiet...
> 
> We are still testing it outside the computer, but so far everything is fine with the pump.
Click to expand...

I did not, i was afraid that I might not be able to return everything correctly in fear of leaking. Maybe in the next few months I might redo everything and even open that part.


----------



## Avonosac

Thanks for the pics, if either of mine goes at all, it will be a good reference.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So I am done with the entire process at the same time my friend who has a long experience with watercooling came by and told me that the black particles are pretty common so he helped me flush out almost everything. We didnt bother opening the pin array anyway.
> 
> Its not making the loud noise but it has the watery sound as of now in which I expect it to go away. Will post pictures later on.
> 
> 
> 
> I used up a total of 5 filter papers each filter paper getting lesser debris on it. Over all the process was very easy but time consuming. I am just waiting for the watery noise to go away before I close the fill port. Ive been tilting it around and such and added a few drops of distilled water in the process.


Glad to see that you were able to get it all put back together and running again. The black particles are most likely from the dye in the coolant. I really don't know where else they would come from. I'll look into this further to see what I can find out. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## EarlZ

You've provided the best assistance bram! even to the point of sending out the items for me. When I had issues with my X60 about the fan making a rattling noise.. the reply I got was that they cannot help me since im non U.S.

Its been like 8hrs since I had the pump running at full speed and I have it wrapped in toilet paper to spot leaks and no issues so far, I'll leave this running overnight just to be sure.


----------



## zila

That black substance is the same stuff that came out of my kit. Only a little more grainy/chunky black pieces in it. I hope this fixes your problem.

I just spoke to Brian and my 1st rma is setup. I hope my next kit will be a good one.

Support is awesome and I have to thank you Brian for being there and taking care of me.


----------



## chang87

2 thumbs up to the swiftech customer support team!


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> That black substance is the same stuff that came out of my kit. Only a little more grainy/chunky black pieces in it. I hope this fixes your problem.
> 
> I just spoke to Brian and my 1st rma is setup. I hope my next kit will be a good one.
> 
> Support is awesome and I have to thank you Brian for being there and taking care of me.


I did have bigger pieces but I was no longer able to photograph them.. that was the time when I was flushing the system with a constant stream of distilled water


----------



## zila

@ EarlZ: Okay, I gotcha. When I flushed mine out with distilled water I too saw it blowing out chunks. That can't be good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> @ EarlZ: Okay, I gotcha. When I flushed mine out with distilled water I too saw it blowing out chunks. That can't be good.


It would really help to figure out what this is if you have any pictures of it. I've seen some of the thinner black particles and have been told that it's just from a break-down of the dye in the coolant. If you can send me a PM with some of the larger debris I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## aphorise

I purchased H220 new, online, from resellers in the Netherlands after the pump on my old CoolIT Vantage ALC died in mid operation last Saturday (GMT 14th September) - BTW 17,520 hours close to constant operation / up time since purchase.

Pleased of receiving the item promptly yesterday (Tuesday 17th September) I opened it and set to work installing it. I even replaced the original fans with NF-12.

Anyway after installing with PWM module included as per instructions with SATA connectors fans worked but - the *pump did not work*.

My BIOS also gives an N/A status regardless of weather it is connected via the included PWM module or directly to either of my motherboards PWM connectors (I have 2x : 1x CPU & 1 CHAS).

Needless to say I am well disappointed - I hope that I dont have to return the motherboard bracket and that a function replacement will be provided quickly.

What are the chances & I wonder how this could have happened on Swiftech's part? - no Q/A - basic testing?

Wheres this stuff made? Foxconn?









Will update my progress / pursuits.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aphorise*
> 
> I purchased H220 new, online, from resellers in the Netherlands after the pump on my old CoolIT Vantage ALC died in mid operation last Saturday (GMT 14th September) - BTW 17,520 hours close to constant operation / up time since purchase.
> 
> Pleased of receiving the item promptly yesterday (Tuesday 17th September) I opened it and set to work installing it. I even replaced the original fans with NF-12.
> 
> Anyway after installing with PWM module included as per instructions with SATA connectors fans worked but - the *pump did not work*.
> 
> My BIOS also gives an N/A status regardless of weather it is connected via the included PWM module or directly to either of my motherboards PWM connectors (I have 2x : 1x CPU & 1 CHAS).
> 
> Needless to say I am well disappointed - I hope that I dont have to return the motherboard bracket and that a function replacement will be provided quickly.
> 
> What are the chances & I wonder how this could have happened on Swiftech's part? - no Q/A - basic testing?
> 
> Wheres this stuff made? Foxconn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update my progress / pursuits.






This is basically what happened to me, and despite all my efforts the original H220 I received had a DOA pump. BUT Bryan from Swiftech took care of me very quickly and cross-shipped a working H220, you could PM him at BramSLI1 and see what he says/thinks









Best of luck


----------



## MightyUnit

Bryan from Swiftech tells me he is not able to Cross Ship me a new H320 because they will not be getting any... I take it the RMA facility is in the US and because Swiftech cannot sell in the US they are not stocking their RMA facility??? Has anyone else heard this coming from Bryan/Swiftech?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> @ EarlZ: Okay, I gotcha. When I flushed mine out with distilled water I too saw it blowing out chunks. That can't be good.
> 
> 
> 
> It would really help to figure out what this is if you have any pictures of it. I've seen some of the thinner black particles and have been told that it's just from a break-down of the dye in the coolant. If you can send me a PM with some of the larger debris I'd really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

It was already flushed out before I could take any pictures, but they looked like curly debris.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your "tech" is the worst tech in the world and needs to be thrown out.
> 
> i just got done mounting a water block to it. it was a very easy install that took all of 5 min. it is not glued on there is 6 screws iirc you just have to remove and your done it practically falls off. very easy reinstall toomake sure to clean the NB off. and use some non conductive tim on it . also since you are sanding it i would recommend covering or replacing the thermal pads[/quote
> 
> I finally achieved success with the water block mount. I was able to use a mini-hacksaw to cut off the the impinging portion of the bracket on the vrms. I thought I had messed up the bracket, but it was only a loose screw which I tightened. I am having a problem with the only working dual channel memory slots available. One dimm is having problems with being recognized by bios though it is seen by hardwareinfo64. I am not sure whether it is the dimm or the fact that the remaining available dual channel dimm slots are not the recommended ones for compatibility. The two dimms were recognized and error free in the proper compatibility slots prior to this adventure of installing the Swiftech. I have had some other minor issues which have consumed time and prevented me from overclocking. AT stock with 100% load with prime 95 blend my cpu core temp was 49 degrees Celcius. I have no idea what that portends for my overclocking.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Bryan from Swiftech tells me he is not able to Cross Ship me a new H320 because they will not be getting any... I take it the RMA facility is in the US and because Swiftech cannot sell in the US they are not stocking their RMA facility??? Has anyone else heard this coming from Bryan/Swiftech?


This is correct at the moment because we don't have any H320 radiators with which to build replacement kits with. Also, since we won't be carrying the H320 in the US we won't be keeping stock of them either. I'm going to look into getting some H320 radiators in for replacements, but I have a feeling that it might take a couple of weeks before they come in. I'll keep you posted, but as of right now if you need an RMA for an H320 you're either going to need to send it in for repair, or we can cross-ship you just a replacement pump/ water block unit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aphorise*
> 
> I purchased H220 new, online, from resellers in the Netherlands after the pump on my old CoolIT Vantage ALC died in mid operation last Saturday (GMT 14th September) - BTW 17,520 hours close to constant operation / up time since purchase.
> 
> Pleased of receiving the item promptly yesterday (Tuesday 17th September) I opened it and set to work installing it. I even replaced the original fans with NF-12.
> 
> Anyway after installing with PWM module included as per instructions with SATA connectors fans worked but - the *pump did not work*.
> 
> My BIOS also gives an N/A status regardless of weather it is connected via the included PWM module or directly to either of my motherboards PWM connectors (I have 2x : 1x CPU & 1 CHAS).
> 
> Needless to say I am well disappointed - I hope that I dont have to return the motherboard bracket and that a function replacement will be provided quickly.
> 
> What are the chances & I wonder how this could have happened on Swiftech's part? - no Q/A - basic testing?
> 
> Wheres this stuff made? Foxconn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update my progress / pursuits.


I"m sorry to hear about this and let me know if you have any problems with your reseller's RMA process.


----------



## EarlZ

I left a finger print mark on the block >.< and it cannot be removed with alcohol.. probably time to use acetone/nail polish remover.


----------



## Ragsters

Well guys..I installed my H320 on Sunday and everything was running ridiculously cool and quiet until 20min ago. All of a sudden my pump died. I don't get a reading at all on the motherboard. I took it off the switch and ran it straight to the CPU fan header on the mobo and nothing. I even connected one of the PWM swiftech fans on the CPU_opt headers while the pump on the CPU header and got a reading from the fan but not the pump. After waiting months and months for this product to have it die on me makes me very sad.







. Maybe we should have a failed H220/H320 pump failed club?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Well guys..I installed my H320 on Sunday and everything was running ridiculously cool and quiet until 20min ago. All of a sudden my pump died. I don't get a reading at all on the motherboard. I took it off the switch and ran it straight to the CPU fan header on the mobo and nothing. I even connected one of the PWM swiftech fans on the CPU_opt headers while the pump on the CPU header and got a reading from the fan but not the pump. After waiting months and months for this product to have it die on me makes me very sad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe we should have a failed H220/H320 pump failed club?


Unscrew it from the CPU socket but dont remove it, happened to me twice already after just unscrewing it the pump was back, not sure what is causing it.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Unscrew it from the CPU socket but dont remove it, happened to me twice already after just unscrewing it the pump was back, not sure what is causing it.


If I unscrew it Im going to have to reapply TIM.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Unscrew it from the CPU socket but dont remove it, happened to me twice already after just unscrewing it the pump was back, not sure what is causing it.
> 
> 
> 
> If I unscrew it Im going to have to reapply TIM.
Click to expand...

No not really just put the PC on its side.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> No not really just put the PC on its side.


So let me get this straight. You want me to unscrew everything to the point of removal then screw everything back? Im not clear.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So let me get this straight. You want me to unscrew everything to the point of removal then screw everything back? Im not clear.


he wants you to loosen the screws but not remove the block, then tighten the screws again


----------



## drew666

hi, can i add an extra 240 rad and a small tube reservoir plus graphics block on an h320? i mean will the pump be enough for the loop? thanks


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I left a finger print mark on the block >.< and it cannot be removed with alcohol.. probably time to use acetone/nail polish remover.


NOOOO!!! Use white vinegar and salt!! Here are the results... Mine was really nasty looking from sitting around and me touching the copper on accident. Good as new... seriously!!


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew666*
> 
> hi, can i add an extra 240 rad and a small tube reservoir plus graphics block on an h320? i mean will the pump be enough for the loop? thanks


Yup!! When I was using it, here's what I had going.


----------



## drew666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Yup!! When I was using it, here's what I had going.


wow! thats awesome! thanks for the info, ill definitely get the h320 now hehehe


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> NOOOO!!! Use white vinegar and salt!! Here are the results... Mine was really nasty looking from sitting around and me touching the copper on accident. Good as new... seriously!!


I am not even joking when I say this.. Use Ketchup. Look it up it works and ends up looking exactly like the Quoted picture. I have done this many times on different copper blocks. If I remember correctly it is the vinegar in the Ketchup? Not sure but it really works lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I am not even joking when I say this.. Use Ketchup. Look it up it works and ends up looking exactly like the Quoted picture. I have done this many times on different copper blocks. If I remember correctly it is the vinegar in the Ketchup? Not sure but it really works lol


Haha.... I saw that once too, but I hate the smell of dried ketchup. LOL


----------



## M3TAl

Lemon juice works nicely too and imo smells great.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I left a finger print mark on the block >.< and it cannot be removed with alcohol.. probably time to use acetone/nail polish remover.
> 
> 
> 
> NOOOO!!! Use white vinegar and salt!! Here are the results... Mine was really nasty looking from sitting around and me touching the copper on accident. Good as new... seriously!!
Click to expand...

Too late I just gave up after cleaning it with alcohol and installed it. I dont think it will hurt temps but I will do that some other time.

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So let me get this straight. You want me to unscrew everything to the point of removal then screw everything back? Im not clear.
> 
> 
> 
> he wants you to loosen the screws but not remove the block, then tighten the screws again
Click to expand...

Exactly, pero you tighten ti again if you can jump start the PSU with out powering the entire system that would be good. That is what I did and it happend to me twice I dont really know whats going on with it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I finally achieved success with the water block mount. I was able to use a mini-hacksaw to cut off the the impinging portion of the bracket on the vrms. I thought I had messed up the bracket, but it was only a loose screw which I tightened. I am having a problem with the only working dual channel memory slots available. One dimm is having problems with being recognized by bios though it is seen by hardwareinfo64. I am not sure whether it is the dimm or the fact that the remaining available dual channel dimm slots are not the recommended ones for compatibility. The two dimms were recognized and error free in the proper compatibility slots prior to this adventure of installing the Swiftech. I have had some other minor issues which have consumed time and prevented me from overclocking. AT stock with 100% load with prime 95 blend my cpu core temp was 49 degrees Celcius. I have no idea what that portends for my overclocking.


i am glad you got it assembled ok hope it works great for you.
you should have no problem accessing the recommended dimms
4 3 2 1 reccomended dims are 1&3 i would recommend taking ram out and blowing out the slots. with compressed air from a can. it is possible some dust got in there, or you had a bad ram seat. i have also had a cpu memory controller die ( on a 6100 ) where it would only read from 1 of the 2 channels let me know if you need to test his and i can walk you through it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I left a finger print mark on the block >.< and it cannot be removed with alcohol.. probably time to use acetone/nail polish remover.


yea if you touch the copper make sure to use alcohol to get the oil off if you dont want it, my ek block for my mobo came from the factory covered with them, i thought it was hilarious, but i guess it means someone actually handled my block before it left... i guess that is good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew666*
> 
> hi, can i add an extra 240 rad and a small tube reservoir plus graphics block on an h320? i mean will the pump be enough for the loop? thanks


yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I am not even joking when I say this.. Use Ketchup. Look it up it works and ends up looking exactly like the Quoted picture. I have done this many times on different copper blocks. If I remember correctly it is the vinegar in the Ketchup? Not sure but it really works lol


no it is the acid, anythign with acid should work citrus, vinegar ect
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Too late I just gave up after cleaning it with alcohol and installed it. I dont think it will hurt temps but I will do that some other time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


it will be 100% fine


----------



## EarlZ

Thanks for the confirmation


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Hi all, its been a very long time sins I have been on to look and see what's going down with the Swiftech H220 lot.
I am upset to say after buying my unit on the 23.06.2013 It has now become so noisy that I have had to start the RMA process......Now hold you're horse's I know all about the air bubble problem and I spent over two days trying to fix the issue but it never worked So I am now having to wait for the Euro distributor to get back to me about the RMA but its not going well.
But on a much lighter note the time I have had with this unit has been amazing even if it was a super tight fit in my case and would not fit the way I wanted it to go.
Fingers crossed my problem gets sorted soon as at the moment it is getting no where


----------



## thelude

After some more testing here are some more results.

System: Asus Maximus V Formula, i7-3770k, 2x AMD7950, 16gb G. Skills Trident @ 2400mhz, Samsung 840pro, Corsair Ax860i PSU
Cooling: H220, 360rad(swiftech), 140rad(swiftech), 2x7950 EKWB

Testing: Prime95 and BF3 Online for 1 hour. Ambient(house) Temp: 24-25 degrees

STOCK:
CPU: 3.9ghz @ 50-55 Degree
2xGPU: 900mhz @ 40-45 Degree

OVERCLOCK #1 (highest I went so far)
CPU: 4.7ghz(1.33vcore) @ 80-85 Degree
2xGPU: 1150mhz(1.25vcore) @ 60-65 Degree

OVERCLOCK #2 (To keep temps under 70)
CPU: 4.5ghz(1.24vcore) @ 65-70 Degree
2xGPU: 1100mhz(1.20vcore) @ 50-55 Degree

Are these temps similar to custom loops with similar configurations?


----------



## michael-ocn

^^^ i'd be pretty happy with those oc1 results, the cpu temps really take off when adding that .2ghz for oc2!


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Has anyone had success with an alternative backplate for the H220?
I had a lot of trouble with the stock one: it doesn't stick to the motherboard, doesn't stay aligned with the mounting holes etc...

I find it ridiculous and frustrating that the mounting system for my 30$ CM Hyper 212 is wayyy better than a 150$ AIO water cooling kit...


----------



## MightyUnit

I had the opposite issue with my H320 back plate. It stuck to the mobo so well I was scared I would hurt the mobo when I pried the back plate loose.


----------



## ez12a

Dont know if this was posted already, but a comparison between the h110, eisberg, water extreme 2.0, and the h220:





Like we know already, the h220 comes out on top when maxed out like the others.


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> I had the opposite issue with my H320 back plate. It stuck to the mobo so well I was scared I would hurt the mobo when I pried the back plate loose.


Well on the H220 it's a real nightmare to install that's why I'm looking for a better alternative...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Well on the H220 it's a real nightmare to install that's why I'm looking for a better alternative...


I'm surprised you say that, from what i've read the mounting system gets pretty good reviews? Nice backplate and tension springs and all.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Brian just wanted to amend my previous post. I did not have a chance to overclock when I had posted that first post of successful installation. The bracket is no longer the issue it is the base of the water block where each of the 2 tubes attach. It is those bases which are blocking the 4th dimm slot and the other one exerts pressure on the vrm. While with the bracket issue eliminated with my trusty mini-hacksaw, the water block seats much better, but not 100% spot on. The result is when I overclock and run prime 95 the system immediately powers down in a fraction of a second. I was able to successfully run prime 95 at 4.0 GHZ stock frequency on my FX-8350. I would appreciate feedback from any of you who are experienced in addition to Brian on this issue.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Well on the H220 it's a real nightmare to install that's why I'm looking for a better alternative...[/quote
> 
> What H320 back plate? It uses the motherboard back plate. Swiftech provides a bracket with screws and washers no back-plate.


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm surprised you say that, from what i've read the mounting system gets pretty good reviews? Nice backplate and tension springs and all.


Yeah no it's really not great at all... you have to put pressure on the backplate and at the same time screw-in the screws by doing some sort of hand-gymnastics.
Then the cold plate slides all over the place .. you get the idea


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Yeah no it's really not great at all... you have to put pressure on the backplate and at the same time screw-in the screws by doing some sort of hand-gymnastics.
> Then the cold plate slides all over the place .. you get the idea


i folded a cloth behind the mobo tray and laid it down. worked out fine


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Yeah no it's really not great at all... you have to put pressure on the backplate and at the same time screw-in the screws by doing some sort of hand-gymnastics.
> Then the cold plate slides all over the place .. you get the idea


My Antec Kuhler backplate does the same thing. Here's how I make install much easier (in fact I just installed again last night).

Take the backplate and make sure it's aligned properly in the holes. Now take some tape that is decently sticky but not so sticky that it will be difficult to remove/leave residue behind and take 4 pieces for each of the four holes. Tape over the 4 holes making sure it makes good contact with the motherboard and backplate at each 4 points.

Now that backplate isn't moving anywhere. Once done with install simply remove the tape or leave it if you're too lazy to remove it







.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Brian just wanted to amend my previous post. I did not have a chance to overclock when I had posted that first post of successful installation. The bracket is no longer the issue it is the base of the water block where each of the 2 tubes attach. It is those bases which are blocking the 4th dimm slot and the other one exerts pressure on the vrm. While with the bracket issue eliminated with my trusty mini-hacksaw, the water block seats much better, but not 100% spot on. The result is when I overclock and run prime 95 the system immediately powers down in a fraction of a second. I was able to successfully run prime 95 at 4.0 GHZ stock frequency on my FX-8350. I would appreciate feedback from any of you who are experienced in addition to Brian on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> This is not an issue that I've seen before. Can you please post a picture so that I can show it to our engineer for analysis? This block should make good contact once the issue with the heat sink has been resolved.
Click to expand...


----------



## os2wiz

121_0130-1.jpg 1351k .jpg file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is not an issue that I've seen before. Can you please post a picture so that I can show it to our engineer for analysis? This block should make good contact once the issue with the heat sink has been resolved.


The issue is around where the elbow joints from the block meet the two tubes. I am enclosing pictures taken at 5:45 pm with as much artificial light I could add to make the pictures clearer. The best picture is attachment 121_0130-1.jpg at the very top of the message screen.

121_0133.JPG 1223k .JPG file


121_0131.JPG 1342k .JPG file


121_0130.JPG 1436k .JPG file


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> 121_0130-1.jpg 1351k .jpg file
> 
> The issue is around where the elbow joints from the block meet the two tubes. I am enclosing pictures taken at 5:45 pm with as much artificial light I could add to make the pictures clearer. The best picture is attachment 121_0130-1.jpg at the very top of the message screen.
> 
> 121_0133.JPG 1223k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 121_0131.JPG 1342k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 121_0130.JPG 1436k .JPG file


I looked at those pictures and they're either too blurry or too dark to really make out what you're talking about. Is there any way that you can take better pictures than that so that I can show them to our engineer?


----------



## os2wiz

121_0130-1.jpg 1617k .jpg file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I looked at those pictures and they're either too blurry or too dark to really make out what you're talking about. Is there any way that you can take better pictures than that so that I can show them to our engineer?


The 121-0130-1.jpg is as good a picture as you could possibly want. Use the brightnness and contrast tool to adjust it to your taste. I am going out of town for 3 days tomorrow morning, so I can't provide better images until Monday during daylight.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Has anyone had success with an alternative backplate for the H220?
> I had a lot of trouble with the stock one: it doesn't stick to the motherboard, doesn't stay aligned with the mounting holes etc...
> 
> I find it ridiculous and frustrating that the mounting system for my 30$ CM Hyper 212 is wayyy better than a 150$ AIO water cooling kit...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm surprised you say that, from what i've read the mounting system gets pretty good reviews? Nice backplate and tension springs and all.


swiftech has one of the best mounts in watercooling as it is impossible to over tighten
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> Yeah no it's really not great at all... you have to put pressure on the backplate and at the same time screw-in the screws by doing some sort of hand-gymnastics.
> Then the cold plate slides all over the place .. you get the idea


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> i folded a cloth behind the mobo tray and laid it down. worked out fine


this, i personally use a very thin pillow


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> swiftech has one of the best mounts in watercooling as it is impossible to over tighten


But its also almost impossible to get it mounted in the first place without 3 hands.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> 121_0130-1.jpg 1617k .jpg file
> 
> The 121-0130-1.jpg is as good a picture as you could possibly want. Use the brightnness and contrast tool to adjust it to your taste. I am going out of town for 3 days tomorrow morning, so I can't provide better images until Monday during daylight.


No it is not as good a picture as you could get...It is blurred and we can't see things properly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> But its also almost impossible to get it mounted in the first place without 3 hands.


no it isnt i can mount my blocks ( apogee hd ) in 5 min with hoses attached, without it is even quicker, towel or thin pillow under board and the amd bracket ( 100% sure same as with intel bracket ) does not move


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No it is not as good a picture as you could get...It is blurred and we can't see things properly.


Seriously... Wow...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no it isnt i can mount my blocks ( apogee hd ) in 5 min with hoses attached, without it is even quicker, towel or thin pillow under board and the amd bracket ( 100% sure same as with intel bracket ) does not move


Yeah... How in the world are you mounting this thing? Lay the system down and slap that puppy on nice and tight.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> 121_0130-1.jpg 1617k .jpg file
> 
> The 121-0130-1.jpg is as good a picture as you could possibly want.










I think i need a new pair of glasses then


----------



## M3TAl

Definitely a very blurry picture







. With contacts according to the doctor my vision is better then 20/20.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> swiftech has one of the best mounts in watercooling as it is impossible to over tighten
> 
> this, i personally use a very thin pillow


Could I borrow the pillow Mega, I really need to catch some Z's now.


----------



## Mega Man

nah it is uncomfortable as .... sitting on a bed of needles it came with a sleeping bag of mine


----------



## Little Big Alex

Hey, I was wandering if I could connect a 240mm raditator in a series loop with the H320, without having to change the pump. I've drawn some crappy blueprints of how it would be:


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Little Big Alex*
> 
> Hey, I was wandering if I could connect a 240mm raditator in a series loop with the H320, without having to change the pump. I've drawn some crappy blueprints of how it would be:


Just make sure you keep the H320 radiator connected to the intake line on the pump, it will just make your life easier as far as priming the pump, and losing any bubbles.


----------



## sailorman

I did not have any problems with the backplate on an Asus Z87 Pro motherboard. I first installed the backplate without the water block using the provided screws. When I removed the screws the double sided tape held the backplate in the perfect position. Then I put the screws into the water block and mounted it to the cpu and backplate. Everything lined up well and went together easily. Maybe it is a lot easier on the Asus motherboard.

My pump is working well and is very quiet. I have not had any air bubble problems. Everything just worked as it should out of the box. I highly recommend the H320.


----------



## passinos

New H220 is doing great. No issues in mounting or performance. Very Quiet and running 38c(1800rpm) Idle and 44c (2400rpm) load in BF3.
waiting for 9970 to go water to the GPUs.


----------



## Little Big Alex

Noob question, what does PWM mean?


----------



## TeeBlack

so i got a new case and gonna use the H220 pump for my new build. gonna swap the rad for a 480 ut60 and add a reservoir. everything should work out fine i hope.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Little Big Alex*
> 
> Noob question, what does PWM mean?


Pulse-width modulation. You can read here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation


----------



## fifty

ok,i give up.
After i placed and paid the order for an h220, the seller said (after 8 days) it is not available anymore....in the meantime i'm reading in here of all those problems, and i already have bought couple wb for my gpu's, an extra 240mm rad, some compression fittings, tubes fans and all for the expansion.
The h220 is not coming anymore so in this thread i read all those realiability problems, dead pumps, noise and so on.
i know that are the person who have the troubles that post more, but meh, i think it is best not take the risk of having a brick that cost 150 euro (not to mention the whole rest of the setup).
...i went ahead and gave a look at the apogee drive 2 1155, which is, imho the better (for who like me looks for a compact solution) one as for realiability, but hell, the only place i can find it in the whole europe it's sold 30/40 euro more than what should be (not to mention the extra 30 euro for the shipping and at the end of the day it cost alone as a full good custom loop), so i give up.
i guess i'm going to cooler master eisberg at this stage, it is a pity because the h220 is quite good eventho it doesn't have g1/4 screw, but all those dead pumps reports scare me also the very light presence of swiftech company in the european ground gave the final touch, i'll just live with the eisberg noise.
too bad.

edit: i have a go with an apogee drive 2 without the pump. Now, all the ddc pumps does fit into this wb? or only the swiftech one? i have a Laing ddc 12v ddc-1t (mpc 350 if im not worng) laying in a desk..anyone know?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Little Big Alex*
> 
> Noob question, what does PWM mean?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Pulse-width modulation. You can read here:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation


^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> ok,i give up.
> After i placed and paid the order for an h220, the seller said (after 8 days) it is not available anymore....in the meantime i'm reading in here of all those problems, and i already have bought couple wb for my gpu's, an extra 240mm rad, some compression fittings, tubes fans and all for the expansion.
> The h220 is not coming anymore so in this thread i read all those realiability problems, dead pumps, noise and so on.
> i know that are the person who have the troubles that post more, but meh, i think it is best not take the risk of having a brick that cost 150 euro (not to mention the whole rest of the setup).
> ...i went ahead and gave a look at the apogee drive 2 1155, which is, imho the better (for who like me looks for a compact solution) one as for realiability, but hell, the only place i can find it in the whole europe it's sold 30/40 euro more than what should be (not to mention the extra 30 euro for the shipping and at the end of the day it cost alone as a full good custom loop), so i give up.
> i guess i'm going to cooler master eisberg at this stage, it is a pity because the h220 is quite good eventho it doesn't have g1/4 screw, but all those dead pumps reports scare me also the very light presence of swiftech company in the european ground gave the final touch, i'll just live with the eisberg noise.
> too bad.
> 
> edit: i have a go with an apogee drive 2 without the pump. Now, all the ddc pumps does fit into this wb? or only the swiftech one? i have a Laing ddc 12v ddc-1t (mpc 350 if im not worng) laying in a desk..anyone know?


i can not confirm but it should fit no prob all the ddcs mount the same to my knowledge


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ^
> i can not confirm but it should fit no prob all the ddcs mount the same to my knowledge


It will fit fine as long as you remove the top off the ddc.


----------



## aphorise

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aphorise*
> 
> I purchased H220 new, online, from resellers in the Netherlands after the pump on my old CoolIT Vantage ALC died in mid operation last Saturday (GMT 14th September) - BTW 17,520 hours close to constant operation / up time since purchase.
> 
> Pleased of receiving the item promptly yesterday (Tuesday 17th September) I opened it and set to work installing it. I even replaced the original fans with NF-12.
> 
> Anyway after installing with PWM module included as per instructions with SATA connectors fans worked but - the *pump did not work*.
> 
> My BIOS also gives an N/A status regardless of weather it is connected via the included PWM module or directly to either of my motherboards PWM connectors (I have 2x : 1x CPU & 1 CHAS).
> 
> Needless to say I am well disappointed - I hope that I dont have to return the motherboard bracket and that a function replacement will be provided quickly.
> 
> What are the chances & I wonder how this could have happened on Swiftech's part? - no Q/A - basic testing?
> 
> Wheres this stuff made? Foxconn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update my progress / pursuits.








Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I"m sorry to hear about this and let me know if you have any problems with your reseller's RMA process.






Began RMA procedures via a French reseller (Friday) - with assistance from Swiftech (thanks Bryan).
Still dont understand why It could not go through local Dutch / authorised dealer from whom I original made the purchase. Anyway would not recommend HighFlow.nl or any of their other webshops.

Fitting the H220 on the P7P55-E Deluxe & Corsair Dominator-GT (CMT8GX3m4A1866C9 - not so buff) has a few considerations.
DIMM-A1 & 2 memory slots are needed and fitting the cold plate in orientations where in/outlet valves are next to the slot make it almost impossible to fit your memory back in as they are pushing against each other.
In my case it seems that only 1 of two ways are possible for fitting the cold plate - guess I'll get to investigate when I receive my unit 

BTW I was wondering which is a better compound Tim Mate or Arctic MX3?


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It will fit fine as long as you remove the top off the ddc.


thank you all , i end up buying an apogee drive 2 with its own pump, the mcp 35x, from amazon france.
with shipping and all i nearly paid 200 us dollars, now i have to get also the rad with integrated res if i can find it, the 2*120mm one.
After all reading of those problems i just hope the mcp 35x is a more durable and realiable pump, also i went for it due to its pwm capabilities.
anyway glad to know all ddc pumps will work eventually.
One more thing, the mcp 35x inside the apd2 can be detahched and used with other tops as well, like the xspc one, right?
cheers


----------



## Mega Man

yes you can use other tops on them you will love the pump i have 3 in my rig atm


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> thank you all , i end up buying an apogee drive 2 with its own pump, the mcp 35x, from amazon france.
> with shipping and all i nearly paid 200 us dollars, now i have to get also the rad with integrated res if i can find it, the 2*120mm one.
> After all reading of those problems i just hope the mcp 35x is a more durable and realiable pump, also i went for it due to its pwm capabilities.
> anyway glad to know all ddc pumps will work eventually.
> One more thing, the mcp 35x inside the apd2 can be detahched and used with other tops as well, like the xspc one, right?
> cheers


The MCP35X pump can be removed and used elsewhere so long as you put a ddc top on it. The APD2 waterblock cannot be used without a pump though. The MCP35X is a very durable pump, but because it's pwm-designed, all the same precautions used to verify pwm modulation with the H220 need to be used with the MCP35X. They are extremely reliable, but caustic sensitivity to voltage modulation is inherent of pwm design. The MCP35X will also outperform the DDC-1T by a fair margin at full speed, though I wouldn't run that high myself because of noise.


----------



## WhiteRice

Anyone experience this before? Appears to be leaking from inside the pump housing.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Anyone experience this before? Appears to be leaking from inside the pump housing.


I personally would take the plastic top off, loosen the 4 screws about a 1/2 turn, and retighten them 1/2 turn or maybe a smidgen more. Looks like a bad seat for the O ring.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I personally would take the plastic top off, loosen the 4 screws about a 1/2 turn, and retighten them 1/2 turn or maybe a smidgen more. Looks like a bad seat for the O ring.












What's wrong with this picture.

I bought rma unit off eBay. Looks like I'm headed to the hardware store.


----------



## Phelan

Whoops....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> What's wrong with this picture.
> I bought rma unit off eBay. Looks like I'm headed to the hardware store.


I don't think I've ever seen this happen before. Where and when did you purchase this kit? I can also have a replacement o-ring sent out to you on Monday, but it would certainly be quicker to pick one up at your local hardware store.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen this happen before. Where and when did you purchase this kit? I can also have a replacement o-ring sent out to you on Monday, but it would certainly be quicker to pick one up at your local hardware store.


I got it off eBay, described by an individual as an rma'd unit. Had it about two weeks. It's really tough to find a 3" oring but I was able to get a smaller one to work.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> I got it off eBay, described by an individual as an rma'd unit. Had it about two weeks. It's really tough to find a 3" oring but I was able to get a smaller one to work.


Let me know if you still want me to send you a replacement o-ring.


----------



## Julsmba

I just changed my case from Zalman Z11 Plus to Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
I added a 240mm radiator and some primochill transparent tubing.
That's the final result:


----------



## B3L13V3R

Well folks, looks like I'm moving on from the H220 club. I just finished my first fully custom loop.

Thanks to Bryan at Swiftech and all the regulars for all the useful tips and help with some minor issues.

I hope I was able to be helpful to a few others on this thread as well.

Here is the new loop!



There is still some work to do with cables and case modding on the doors for ventilation.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Well folks, looks like I'm moving on from the H220 club. I just finished my first fully custom loop.
> 
> Thanks to Bryan at Swiftech and all the regulars for all the useful tips and help with some minor issues.
> 
> I hope I was able to be helpful to a few others on this thread as well.
> 
> Here is the new loop!
> 
> 
> 
> There is still some work to do with cables and case modding on the doors for ventilation.


Lookin sharp there man. Conerats on the new build. Nows time to enjoy it!


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> I just changed my case from Zalman Z11 Plus to Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
> I added a 240mm radiator and some primochill transparent tubing.
> That's the final result:






How are temps?


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Lookin sharp there man. Conerats on the new build. Nows time to enjoy it!


Thanks! And yes... "testing" is always the fun part!!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Well folks, looks like I'm moving on from the H220 club. I just finished my first fully custom loop.
> 
> Thanks to Bryan at Swiftech and all the regulars for all the useful tips and help with some minor issues.
> 
> I hope I was able to be helpful to a few others on this thread as well.
> 
> Here is the new loop!
> 
> 
> 
> There is still some work to do with cables and case modding on the doors for ventilation.


I have that same paracord in my mini Phantom build, as an accent color (white color is the main paracord in mine).

I also have some of it in the ITX build I did for a client.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I have that same paracord in my mini Phantom build, as an accent color (white color is the main paracord in mine).
> 
> I also have some of it in the ITX build I did for a client.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome!! I just thought it would be different than what we are used to seeing. Pic is pretty crappy... doesn't do the stuff justice.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Awesome!! I just thought it would be different than what we are used to seeing. Pic is pretty crappy... doesn't do the stuff justice.


Thanks! Yeah it's pretty sweet IMO. On a side note, I've sleeved 3 PSUs in paracord now and I'm getting pretty fast and efficient at it







. This one for my brother took about 10 hrs total, as compared to about 20 for the partial I've done on my modular XFX 850 and the 20 or so it took on the XFX 750, though I also shortened all the wires and rewired it a couple times.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Thanks! Yeah it's pretty sweet IMO. On a side note, I've sleeved 3 PSUs in paracord now and I'm getting pretty fast and efficient at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This one for my brother took about 10 hrs total, as compared to about 20 for the partial I've done on my modular XFX 850 and the 20 or so it took on the XFX 750, though I also shortened all the wires and rewired it a couple times.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












No CLUE how to do that... I would love to have this EVGA 1000 G2 like that... Only sleeved 4 cables on this build...


----------



## xulos

Hi. I recently bought swiftech h220. But i noticed that something is wrong, when my pump is on max (3000 rpm), it works normaly, but if i lower pump rpm to 2000 (40%) it sounds like this : 



 , what should i do ? its only 3 days old. Its only happening on 40% (2000 rpm). I connected pump directly in mbo, should i conect pump via pwm splitter?


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Let me know if you still want me to send you a replacement o-ring.


I think I'll be alright for now. Thank you anyway.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Hi. I recently bought swiftech h220. But i noticed that something is wrong, when my pump is on max (3000 rpm), it works normaly, but if i lower pump rpm to 2000 (40%) it sounds like this :
> 
> 
> 
> , what should i do ? its only 3 days old. Its only happening on 40% (2000 rpm). I connected pump directly in mbo, should i conect pump via pwm splitter?


Have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Give that a try and see if it resolves your issue. Let me know though if it doesn't.


----------



## xulos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Give that a try and see if it resolves your issue. Let me know though if it doesn't.


of course i removed air, i m messing with this thing since 9 am. .But i noticed that frikin sound only on 2000 rpm or below and when my pc is stanging verticaly, when i lower it horizontaly (pump is in this state,----, instead like this | ) it doesnt tickling.


----------



## Robbieladd

use a flash or flashlight and get those pics right. there is little detail to discern. cheers, Rob


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> of course i removed air, i m messing with this thing since 9 am. .But i noticed that frikin sound only on 2000 rpm or below and when my pc is stanging verticaly, when i lower it horizontaly (pump is in this state,----, instead like this | ) it doesnt tickling.


I'm sorry to hear about this. I'll discuss this issue with our engineer when I get into work in the morning, and see what he thinks it might be, and how to resolve it. I'll have an answer for you in tomorrow. Either way it will get taken care of though.


----------



## EarlZ

How many full cover GPU blocks and radiators can the H220 drive? I am thinking of expanding it to my 780's in the near future or will wait for the next gen of cards and expand from there.


----------



## fleetfeather

any chance the first post could be updated with a FAQ or Guide to what factors affect the devices you can attach for a 220 or 320? EG: what can the pump handle, how to calculate the total TDP for your proposed setup, expected cooling performance for some common graphics cards/TDPs, best way to orientate/mount your h220/320 for different scenarios etc.?

I mean, I'm keen to ask a few Q's about the H220, but I feel I'll probably end up chopping and changing my plans and I don't really want to annoy people with "can I do ____" followed by another "well, what if I changed _____, can I still do _____?" post 2 days later haha


----------



## Pure2sin

I noticed a few posts back about an new impeller design on revision.

Any pictures of this? When was this revision implemented?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I noticed a few posts back about an new impeller design on revision.
> 
> Any pictures of this? When was this revision implemented?


Check a few pages back, I posted some pictures so as another user did.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is not an issue that I've seen before. Can you please post a picture so that I can show it to our engineer for analysis? This block should make good contact once the issue with the heat sink has been resolved.[/quote
> 
> hi Brian, I just returned from a conference in Arlington, Va yesterday afternoon. So I used my high quality Panasonic Lumix zoom digital camera this morning to take several images both of the 4th dimm slot and the are where the vrm is engaged with the elbow joint s of the water block. I used my flash. Hope the pictures are sharp enough for you to see what I see with my naked eye.
> 
> P1000975.JPG 1382k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000976.JPG 1397k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000977.JPG 1428k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000978.JPG 1254k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000980.JPG 982k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Feel free to send me your comments. Thank you. I did not attempt to adjust these pictures with the brightness-contrast controls built into the overclock.net web software. Please use that control as you need to afjust the picture to your comfort level.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is not an issue that I've seen before. Can you please post a picture so that I can show it to our engineer for analysis? This block should make good contact once the issue with the heat sink has been resolved.[/quote
> 
> hi Brian, I just returned from a conference in Arlington, Va yesterday afternoon. So I used my high quality Panasonic Lumix zoom digital camera this morning to take several images both of the 4th dimm slot and the are where the vrm is engaged with the elbow joint s of the water block. I used my flash. Hope the pictures are sharp enough for you to see what I see with my naked eye.
> 
> P1000975.JPG 1382k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000976.JPG 1397k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000977.JPG 1428k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000978.JPG 1254k .JPG file
> 
> 
> P1000980.JPG 982k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Feel free to send me your comments. Thank you. I did not attempt to adjust these pictures with the brightness-contrast controls built into the overclock.net web software. Please use that control as you need to afjust the picture to your comfort level.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried looking at them and adjusting them, but they're either too blurry or out of focus. Is there a way you can take pictures that are parallel with the motherboard? That will help me get a clear idea of the issue that you're having and how to resolve it.
Click to expand...


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've tried looking at them and adjusting them, but they're either too blurry or out of focus. Is there a way you can take pictures that are parallel with the motherboard? That will help me get a clear idea of the issue that you're having and how to resolve it.


I just edited 76 jpeg with photoshop elements for improved brightness. It is as sharp a photo as I have ever seen. I do not see why you could not have done the same. I renamed it swiftech. it will be on the forum in a minute.

swiftechP1000976.jpg 710k .jpg file


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I just edited 76 jpeg with photoshop elements for improved brightness. It is as sharp a photo as I have ever seen. I do not see why you could not have done the same. I renamed it swiftech. it will be on the forum in a minute.
> 
> swiftechP1000976.jpg 710k .jpg file


OK, I see what the issue is here. You will need to turn the pump and block unit around so that the elbow fittings come out closer to to the top. This will give you more room because the heat sink sits a little further away higher up on the motherboard. Let me know if this helps resolve your issue.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, I see what the issue is here. You will need to turn the pump and block unit around so that the elbow fittings come out closer to to the top. This will give you more room because the heat sink sits a little further away higher up on the motherboard. Let me know if this helps resolve your issue.


turn it around?? 180 degrees??? I don't see how rotating it will make any difference. You can't rotate the block 90 degrees because to do so you would have to install the bracket on the other 2 sides of the block and that is a physical impossibility as the the bracket will not engage properly with the water block due to those elbow joints. it can only turn 180 degrees. You will have to clarify what you are asking me to do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> turn it around?? 180 degrees??? I don't see how rotating it will make any difference. You can't rotate the block 90 degrees because to do so you would have to install the bracket on the other 2 sides of the block and that is a physical impossibility as the the bracket will not engage properly with the water block due to those elbow joints. it can only turn 180 degrees. You will have to clarify what you are asking me to do.


Right, turn it 180 degrees. This will put the elbows higher on the block and this should give you the clearance that you need to fit it properly to make a good contact on your processor.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> turn it around?? 180 degrees??? I don't see how rotating it will make any difference. You can't rotate the block 90 degrees because to do so you would have to install the bracket on the other 2 sides of the block and that is a physical impossibility as the the bracket will not engage properly with the water block due to those elbow joints. it can only turn 180 degrees. You will have to clarify what you are asking me to do.


the elbows that come out the sides are off-center, so flipping the pump 180 will change the elbow position slightly.

Bram's response is valid.


----------



## fasterhoads

Does the new impeller design resolve the ticking noise on the H220?
The H320 works perfectly with virtually no sound.
I had to pull the 220 out of my other pc and put an H100 in just to keep the wife from from going ballistic due to the noise.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> the elbows that come out the sides are off-center, so flipping the pump 180 will change the elbow position slightly.
> 
> Bram's response is valid.


Thanks for that. Every now and then I actually know what I'm talking about.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for that. Every now and then I actually know what I'm talking about.


I want to thank you again . The phone conversation clarified my understanding of what you said in your forum response.My tech is arriving in an hour to complete the installation.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I want to thank you again . The phone conversation clarified my understanding of what you said in your forum response.My tech is arriving in an hour to complete the installation.


Sounds good. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## sikkly

So it appears the pump on my release day h220 had its journey cut out a little short, and decided to die this morning while doing some stability testing. I could make several guesses on why it happened, but mechanical parts are prone to failure, it is what it is. Already had a call with Swiftech and sent in my email for RMA, and should be getting it sorted quickly, which is the main reason I went with Swiftech. Best customer I've ever had to deal with.

Thinking about it I wonder if its a mechanical failure at all, as my motherboard wasn't reading that a CPU fan was hooked up at all, and I know the header isn't bad(another fan works just fine). I wonder if it was problems on the electrical side. Meh, this isn't my area of expertise, I'll let the smart ones think about what went wrong.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> So it appears the pump on my release day h220 had its journey cut out a little short, and decided to die this morning while doing some stability testing. I could make several guesses on why it happened, but mechanical parts are prone to failure, it is what it is. Already had a call with Swiftech and sent in my email for RMA, and should be getting it sorted quickly, which is the main reason I went with Swiftech. Best customer I've ever had to deal with.
> 
> Thinking about it I wonder if its a mechanical failure at all, as my motherboard wasn't reading that a CPU fan was hooked up at all, and I know the header isn't bad(another fan works just fine). I wonder if it was problems on the electrical side. Meh, this isn't my area of expertise, I'll let the smart ones think about what went wrong.


I'm very sorry that you had an issue with this pump. I'm the guy you spoke with over the phone and once I get the additional information that I requested from you, I'll issue you an RMA number and give you instructions on how to get the kit replaced.


----------



## Badness

What speed do you guys run your pumps at for idle and load?


----------



## fifty

ok finally i did it, what a mess with swiftech products in europe, BramSLI1 make something!








i know this isnt the right place to post, but im glad i went for the following from h220 :
apogee drive 2 with mcp 35x
and a rad with integrated res (but the older version , Swiftech MCR220Q PRES could't find basically in no place the newer one , at least in the whole european market).
just 1 question, once the loop is done and closed, do i have to keep the rad on top to be sure the pump will never run dry? or shouldn't matter as soon as it is closed?

p.s. i want to tank the support i got from the whole guys in the thread here, really appreciate.
t.h.a.n.k. y.o.u


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> ok finally i did it, what a mess with swiftech products in europe, BramSLI1 make something!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know this isnt the right place to post, but im glad i went for the following from h220 :
> apogee drive 2 with mcp 35x
> and a rad with integrated res (but the older version , Swiftech MCR220Q PRES could't find basically in no place the newer one , at least in the whole european market).
> just 1 question, once the loop is done and closed, do i have to keep the rad on top to be sure the pump will never run dry? or shouldn't matter as soon as it is closed?
> 
> p.s. i want to tank the support i got from the whole guys in the thread here, really appreciate.
> t.h.a.n.k. y.o.u


Once it's closed it really doesn't matter. Just remember thought that when evaporation starts to occur you'll need to top off the radiator to keep bubbles from getting into the pump. The 35X will sometimes have the same issues with bubbles that the H220 does. This is actually common of just about any water cooling pump. With the pump located in the highest part of the loop, this is where air will rise to.


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Once it's closed it really doesn't matter. Just remember thought that when evaporation starts to occur you'll need to top off the radiator to keep bubbles from getting into the pump. The 35X will sometimes have the same issues with bubbles that the H220 does. This is actually common of just about any water cooling pump. With the pump located in the highest part of the loop, this is where air will rise to.


allright thank you. Im probably switching case to accomodate the rads in a better position (i currently have a cm 692 and i'm watching at the fractal arc midi r2).
Btw bram is there any place in europe that you know that sell the newer 240 rad with the integrated reservoir?
ciao


----------



## ucantescape1992

Hey all, recently I added a Heatkiller Universal VGA block and an EX240 to my loop. I'm not really impressed with the temps, although they are acceptable.

The loop cools a de-lidded 4770k @ 1.3V, and a 7970 also @ 1.3V.

IBT gets the CPU up past 70, and Heaven gets the GPU up to 62.

I'm using 4 AP-15's, pushing cool air in from the top and front rad. (Yes...DUST)

Are these temps normal? I expected a much higher temp drop on the cpu after adding the EX240. Temps are about the same even with the added rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> Btw bram is there any place in europe that you know that sell the newer 240 rad with the integrated reservoir?
> ciao


I've just finished checking several sites and it looks like the only one they carry is the original version. I'm going to see if I can get our distributor there to carry the rev. 2, but it will probably take some time before they start stocking it. It might be quicker to order it from the states. Send me a PM regarding this so that I'll have a reminder to stay on top of it.


----------



## sgs2008

Hi my h220 pump has started making a really loud buzzing noise, been going on for a few weeks. Is there a way to fix this ? Thanks


----------



## confed

Just wanted to follow up on my earlier posts. The new H220 has been installed for a few days and running great. All of you were very helpful in trying to resolve the issue and BramSLI was very quick and helpful throughout the entire RMA process. This thread is one of the most important factors into me getting this product. Thanks everyone.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgs2008*
> 
> Hi my h220 pump has started making a really loud buzzing noise, been going on for a few weeks. Is there a way to fix this ? Thanks


Have you tried the instructions in the OP yet?


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aphorise*
> 
> 
> Began RMA procedures via a French reseller (Friday) - with assistance from Swiftech (thanks Bryan).
> Still dont understand why It could not go through local Dutch / authorised dealer from whom I original made the purchase. Anyway would not recommend HighFlow.nl or any of their other webshops.
> 
> Fitting the H220 on the P7P55-E Deluxe & Corsair Dominator-GT (CMT8GX3m4A1866C9 - not so buff) has a few considerations.
> DIMM-A1 & 2 memory slots are needed and fitting the cold plate in orientations where in/outlet valves are next to the slot make it almost impossible to fit your memory back in as they are pushing against each other.
> In my case it seems that only 1 of two ways are possible for fitting the cold plate - guess I'll get to investigate when I receive my unit
> 
> BTW I was wondering which is a better compound Tim Mate or Arctic MX3?


I also Had to go through a French reseller to RMA my unit I am hoping to get my unit back soon did it take long to get it back?
and also thanks to Bryan who also helped me out with this RMA stuff I just hope nothing goes wrong with my pump again fingers crossed


----------



## DOOOLY

Well i am really happy with mine. Although the installation was a pain getting the water block installed was a nightmare, the back plate keep falling off i needed my buddy to hold the back well i aligned the cpu block. I did install the rad backwards, the pump sounded like a water fall until i place the fill port upwards. Now its so quiet i have played battlefield 3 for 1 hr and it did not make a sound. This is definitely the best AIO ive ever own. If i wanted to water cool my video cards what gear would i need ? I know i need water blocks for the gpus.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Well i am really happy with mine. Although the installation was a pain getting the water block installed was a nightmare, the back plate keep falling off i needed my buddy to hold the back well i aligned the cpu block. I did install the rad backwards, the pump sounded like a water fall until i place the fill port upwards. Now its so quiet i have played battlefield 3 for 1 hr and it did not make a sound. This is definitely the best AIO ive ever own.


If I may, is that an Air 540?


----------



## DOOOLY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> If I may, is that an Air 540?


Yes


----------



## sdmf74

I really like that case (540) but now that the 750d is out IDK


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I really like that case (540) but now that the 750d is out IDK


Oh... 750d... lookie there









http://www.anandtech.com/show/7359/corsair-obsidian-750d-case-review


----------



## srgman

Anyone know what it looks like under the plastic cover on the H220? And is it hard to get off?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srgman*
> 
> Anyone know what it looks like under the plastic cover on the H220? And is it hard to get off?


There is a stamp under it with the Swiftech logo. It's just held on by some glue, but the residue can be difficult to remove.


----------



## srgman

Thx! Best way to remove the residue without cutting up the pump? Solvent?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *srgman*
> 
> Thx! Best way to remove the residue without cutting up the pump? Solvent?


I know that one of the best ways to remove glue is to use acetone, but it might mark up or damage the plastic. I would try using a mild soap and see if that helps to remove it.


----------



## mcnumpty23

just took my pc out after 4 weeks in storage while moving house

plugged it in and my h320 came to life just as i left it

cool and quiet--no strange noises or anything

so not everyone on here is here to solve an issue

its still




























from me for swiftech


----------



## zila

You might want to try a little Goo Gone.


----------



## Phelan

+1 on trying goo-gone. Good stuff without the acetone streaking.


----------



## EarlZ

So i had the pump running at 0.75 PWM / C for about a week or so and I decided to make it run again at full speed. I got the same noise with the trapped air but the good thing is that the new impeller is able to purge those bubbles all on its own.. I just left it running for about 3mins and the noise was gone.


----------



## crabula

Hi all,

I have been reading a lot about the Swiftech H220/320, and I am pretty set on a H320. (At first this will just be used to keep my new 4670K cool, but I may add a GPU (or two?) into the mix later.)

Before I purchase (in Australia), I have a couple of conerns I'm hoping you folks will able to help put to rest for me.

Does the H320 have the same chance of failure as the H220? I'm guessing the pump & everything beside the rad is identical?

If it's the same, does the H320 have the newer version of the impeller? Or is it possible to get the old version with the H320 too?

Thank you!

... on a side note, buying case I'm deciding between the NZXT H630, Phantom 630, or Switch 810 (price doesn't matter). Can't decide! Help if you can pls (I've read 7892934 reviews) :>


----------



## EarlZ

I remember Bram saying that the H320s come with the new impeller installed so there should be no pump noise issue on it what so ever.

I just noticed that the pump really vibrates a lot to the point it gets transmitted to my first card.. its not a small vibration but something you can really feel. I guess this is normal due to the pump? My X60 never had this kind of vibration though.


----------



## chang87

I just received my new impeller yesterday. Thanks to BramSLI1.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I remember Bram saying that the H320s come with the new impeller installed so there should be no pump noise issue on it what so ever.
> 
> I just noticed that the pump really vibrates a lot to the point it gets transmitted to my first card.. its not a small vibration but something you can really feel. I guess this is normal due to the pump? My X60 never had this kind of vibration though.


There shouldn't be a lotof vibration, maybe at max rpms. Have you checked to make sure all your motherboard standoffs are tight?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have been reading a lot about the Swiftech H220/320, and I am pretty set on a H320. (At first this will just be used to keep my new 4670K cool, but I may add a GPU (or two?) into the mix later.)
> 
> Before I purchase (in Australia), I have a couple of conerns I'm hoping you folks will able to help put to rest for me.
> 
> Does the H320 have the same chance of failure as the H220? I'm guessing the pump & everything beside the rad is identical?
> 
> If it's the same, does the H320 have the newer version of the impeller? Or is it possible to get the old version with the H320 too?
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> ... on a side note, buying case I'm deciding between the NZXT H630, Phantom 630, or Switch 810 (price doesn't matter). Can't decide! Help if you can pls (I've read 7892934 reviews) :>


H320 are all new revision and awesome. Get the H630 with the optional big window







.


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> What speed do you guys run your pumps at for idle and load?


I would really like to know if you guys run them full speed on just the stock loop. Also, how low the pump will go on idle. I just ordered one $130 and I am not sure if I am going to sell it or keep it.

EDIT: What's this about failure rates on the H220??


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> I would really like to know if you guys run them full speed on just the stock loop. Also, how low the pump will go on idle. I just ordered one $130 and I am not sure if I am going to sell it or keep it.


my bios reports about 1500rpm on idle--dont know if it will go lower

and about 2200rpm on load so not full speed for me

over 2200rpm to me it gets audible--though that may be the fan noise as well as the pump

2600k at 5ghz with the h320


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> my bios reports about 1500rpm on idle--dont know if it will go lower
> 
> and about 2200rpm on load so not full speed for me
> 
> over 2200rpm to me it gets audible--though that may be the fan noise as well as the pump
> 
> 2600k at 5ghz with the h320


Thanks for the quick response. I know that too high RPM with too little radiator can be bad. Has anybody experienced this? Is the H220 actually that unreliable that I should be concerned?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response. I know that too high RPM with too little radiator can be bad. Has anybody experienced this? Is the H220 actually that unreliable that I should be concerned?


The failure rates are actually greatly over exagerated in this thread because this is where people with failures are sent. Actual failure rate was openly shared via Gabe Rouchon (CEO) to be 3%.

Max rpm of this unit is throttled to 3K RPM so that running max 100% shouldn't be an issue. That being said, you don't need the speed to be over 1800 rpm to get 99.% peak performance as an AIO.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I remember Bram saying that the H320s come with the new impeller installed so there should be no pump noise issue on it what so ever.
> 
> I just noticed that the pump really vibrates a lot to the point it gets transmitted to my first card.. its not a small vibration but something you can really feel. I guess this is normal due to the pump? My X60 never had this kind of vibration though.
> 
> 
> 
> There shouldn't be a lotof vibration, maybe at max rpms. Have you checked to make sure all your motherboard standoffs are tight?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have been reading a lot about the Swiftech H220/320, and I am pretty set on a H320. (At first this will just be used to keep my new 4670K cool, but I may add a GPU (or two?) into the mix later.)
> 
> Before I purchase (in Australia), I have a couple of conerns I'm hoping you folks will able to help put to rest for me.
> 
> Does the H320 have the same chance of failure as the H220? I'm guessing the pump & everything beside the rad is identical?
> 
> If it's the same, does the H320 have the newer version of the impeller? Or is it possible to get the old version with the H320 too?
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> ... on a side note, buying case I'm deciding between the NZXT H630, Phantom 630, or Switch 810 (price doesn't matter). Can't decide! Help if you can pls (I've read 7892934 reviews) :>
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> H320 are all new revision and awesome. Get the H630 with the optional big window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Max rpm, my board has fixed stand off. The pump it self is making the vibration. I cannot remember if it used to vibrate that much but i think it didnt. What can cause the pump to vibrate more than normal?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Max rpm, my board has fixed stand off. The pump it self is making the vibration. I cannot remember if it used to vibrate that much but i think it didnt. What can cause the pump to vibrate more than normal?


Is it noisier than before too, or is it just vibrating more than you remember? You have to remember also that these pumps are much stronger than the pumps in most other AIO kits.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Max rpm, my board has fixed stand off. The pump it self is making the vibration. I cannot remember if it used to vibrate that much but i think it didnt. What can cause the pump to vibrate more than normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Is it noisier than before too, or is it just vibrating more than you remember? You have to remember also that these pumps are much stronger than the pumps in most other AIO kits.
Click to expand...

As of posting my earlier reply, I was just using my phone now that I am at my PC its making another kind of noise that I've never heard before and the vibration is quite stronger than what I can remember. I'll be off to work in 5mins so I have to check this our further later on but the noise is very audible. It is audible at any RPM and changes in tone as the RPM lowers. Another trapped air bubble?

uploaded video.. it might still be processing for now


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The failure rates are actually greatly over exagerated in this thread because this is where people with failures are sent. Actual failure rate was openly shared via Gabe Rouchon (CEO) to be 3%.
> 
> Max rpm of this unit is throttled to 3K RPM so that running max 100% shouldn't be an issue. That being said, you don't need the speed to be over 1800 rpm to get 99.% peak performance as an AIO.


Has any benchmark or review shown this fact?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Has any benchmark or review shown this fact?


I think Martin of Martinsliquidlab and Linus of Linus Tech Tips both showed this to be the case. Our own in-house testing was also able to demonstrate this.


----------



## tw33k

Had my H320 for about a month now and today I finished the loop. No issues at all. I'm very happy with it


----------



## crabula

So there's no point running H320/220 at over 1800RPM (both pump and fans?) for just a CPU?

How do you limit it? Can you do it in BIOS (ASUS Z87-Plus)?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> So there's no point running H320/220 at over 1800RPM (both pump and fans?) for just a CPU?
> 
> How do you limit it? Can you do it in BIOS (ASUS Z87-Plus)?


Before you attempt to modulate the RPM, make sure to have the pump plugged into the splitter (in the red plug) and the splitter into the CPU_FAN header. Then you can go into your BIOS and change that fan setting, in your case likely to Manual, and then I would recommend using speedfan to lower the RPM of the CPU FAN channel. If you want to run your fans at MAX RPMs or higher than the percentage of the pump (e.g. the pump at 1800 rpm is roughly 35% on speedfan (guessing), so your fans plugged in the splitter would be running similarly), you'll need to take the fans off the splitter and plug them in elsewhere. Alternatively, you can run the fans on the splitter off the CPU_OPT channel and the pump off the CPU_FAN header, so the RPMs will be controlled separately. However, you need to first have the devices plugged into the splitter and the splitter in the fan port so you can verify that it is running PWM and not voltage. If the splitter is plugged in, and you can adjust the speed in speedfan (after the header is vhanged to manual in the BIOS), then it is running PWM. If you cannot change the RPMs in the same situation, and the devices are all running full speed, the header is not running PWM, but modulating voltage. In this scenario, it's better to leave everything running full speed via the splitter. The splitter is your protection device against voltage modulation, which can kill the pump in an unknown amount of time, so be mindful of this.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> So there's no point running H320/220 at over 1800RPM (both pump and fans?) for just a CPU?
> 
> How do you limit it? Can you do it in BIOS (ASUS Z87-Plus)?


I disagree with that assessment. If you had an AMD 8350 that you are doing an overclock abobe 4.7 -5.0 GHZ you will need to rev that pump well above 2200 when under 100% load. So it really depens what you are doing with your cpu and which cpu you have. I have mine running above 2500 rpm most of the time and my fans at 1800 rpm with very low noise.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> I disagree with that assessment. If you had an AMD 8350 that you are doing an overclock abobe 4.7 -5.0 GHZ you will need to rev that pump well above 2200 when under 100% load. So it really depens what you are doing with your cpu and which cpu you have. I have mine running above 2500 rpm most of the time and my fans at 1800 rpm with very low noise.


Have you tried running the pump at 1800 and the fans at max? Mind you, you can't run the pump at 1800 and the fans max while running all on the same splitter, but my assessment was solely about the pump. The pump doesn't have to be revved higher than that in a CPU-only loop for max performance. The fans do, however.


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think Martin of Martinsliquidlab and Linus of Linus Tech Tips both showed this to be the case. Our own in-house testing was also able to demonstrate this.


thanks


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Have you tried running the pump at 1800 and the fans at max? Mind you, you can't run the pump at 1800 and the fans max while running all on the same splitter, but my assessment was solely about the pump. The pump doesn't have to be revved higher than that in a CPU-only loop for max performance. The fans do, however.


No reason to have the pump on the same splitter as the fans. I have the pump on cpu fan and the splitter on cpu option. They are both pwm . That is on my Crosshair V Formula Z.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> No reason to have the pump on the same splitter as the fans. I have the pump on cpu fan and the splitter on cpu option. They are both pwm . That is on my Crosshair V Formula Z.


Did they test the pump speed required on a 5 GHZ FX-8350 overclock??? The heat is very substantial with such an overclock.


----------



## M3TAl

What he's saying is fan speed has a greater impact on temps than pump speed. Martin's own testing shows this.

It shouldn't matter that an 8350 produces more heat than an Intel chip because this principle holds true for loops with multiple components (GPU's and CPU) or pretty much any loop. Yes there is some increase in temperature at lower pump speeds but not as much as lowering fan speed. Some blocks are optimized for low flow too.
Quote:


> The increase of pump speed from 30% to 100% accounted for almost a 1 degree improvement in performance.


You'll see a lot more than 1 C change going from 100% fan speed to 30%.


----------



## EarlZ

Update on the new noise issue I had:

Flushed the kit twice and purged the bubbles properly and I am still getting strong vibration and loud noise ( different from what I had before ) I also made sure that I cleaned the kit properly including the fin array this time as a lot of black stuff was there. I actually wanted to try the old impeller just to test it out but unfortunately I ran out of distilled water to test with, not sure if running with tap water that has chlorine is a good idea even for a short while.


----------



## Agoniizing

Is it safe to use Mayhems Pastel in my H220 with primochill clear tubing?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Is it safe to use Mayhems Pastel in my H220 with primochill clear tubing?


I am also interested in this


----------



## mpetroul

Ive had one of these units for a few months now. A couple days ago it started making a gurgling noise and I took it out of the PC and ran it moving it around to hopefully get any air out that could have somehow made its way to the pump.

It stopped while I was doing that and will not start again.

I want to send it for an RMA, where can I do that?

Thanks,
Mike


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpetroul*
> 
> Ive had one of these units for a few months now. A couple days ago it started making a gurgling noise and I took it out of the PC and ran it moving it around to hopefully get any air out that could have somehow made its way to the pump.
> 
> It stopped while I was doing that and will not start again.
> 
> I want to send it for an RMA, where can I do that?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


Where are you located and who did you buy it from?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Is it safe to use Mayhems Pastel in my H220 with primochill clear tubing?


I have found that that depends on who you ask.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have found that that depends on who you ask.


simple answer it is a pump and a waterblock, nothing special,

long answer 99.99% of all dyes are made from solids which will settle, and separate back out while in your loop.
i do not recommend running dyes or colored fluid .


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> simple answer it is a pump and a waterblock, nothing special,
> 
> long answer 99.99% of all dyes are made from solids which will settle, and separate back out while in your loop.
> i do not recommend running dyes or colored fluid .


Not only this, but with all Swiftech pumps (and most every other pump manu out there), running dyed fluids through the pump will void the warrantee, unless it is the manufacturer-recommended fluid (In Swiftech's case, HydrX PM 1 or 2).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have found that that depends on who you ask.


Yep agree. Also because the notion of "safe" is also to some degree relative in this case. Your loop will not spill or magically disintegrate due running dye liquid on it. But it will settle at some point, loose the color and increase your maintenance due to cleaning, draining, refilling and so on. It is a personal choice I think. Me, I run black rubber tubing and I am







with it. But if you need color in your system you can always purchase color tubes....

A nice reading about it for anyone interested in forming He/She own opinion about it:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> simple answer it is a pump and a waterblock, nothing special,
> 
> long answer 99.99% of all dyes are made from solids which will settle, and separate back out while in your loop.
> i do not recommend running dyes or colored fluid .


+1


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> I just received my new impeller yesterday. Thanks to BramSLI1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good







Very nice to see the product improved. I've noticed that air seems to accumulate somehow in pump housing? It is a bit strange, I can run the pump at high speed (the fill port is the highest point) with the cap off to get rid of the air in the pump and the noises go away. Then if I turn the pump up to full blast after a while of more or less constant speed at about 2000 rpm, the bubbles and noise is back. Does that make sense? I have a Apogee Drive 2, and that one never has these kinds of air/bubble noises when ramping up speed. It too usually runs a constant, low speed that occasionally ramps up to max RPM (overclocking hoo!







), but almost never emit the same kind of noise.

I'm tempted to modify the impeller in my H220 to observe any improvement, but I'm pretty sure it would ruin it as I'm lacking the tools (and probably the proper knowledge). Anyway, very nice to see this stuff, much obliged


----------



## Imprezzion

I have to admit that my H320's pump is making more and more noise as time goes by.

It's mostly at low RPM's though. At minimal RPM and at max RPM it's quiet but I use CPU_FAN (PWM) header for pump speed control and when the pump has to go to ~1800-2400RPM (idle is 1600RPM) becuase I started a program or something or am loading BF3 or something alike it makes a loud clicking / tapping noise.

I bled out the air already as good as I can but I know next to nothing of WC and i'm not planning to disassemble the kit as the only reason I bought a H320 is so that I don't have to do all that haha.

Should I worry now or?

I thought the H320 shipped with the newer and proper pump?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I have to admit that my H320's pump is making more and more noise as time goes by.
> 
> It's mostly at low RPM's though. At minimal RPM and at max RPM it's quiet but I use CPU_FAN (PWM) header for pump speed control and when the pump has to go to ~1800-2400RPM (idle is 1600RPM) becuase I started a program or something or am loading BF3 or something alike it makes a loud clicking / tapping noise.
> 
> I bled out the air already as good as I can but I know next to nothing of WC and i'm not planning to disassemble the kit as the only reason I bought a H320 is so that I don't have to do all that haha.
> 
> Should I worry now or?
> 
> I thought the H320 shipped with the newer and proper pump?


Are you using the splitter, or at least tested the header with the splitter to verify it's modulating with PWM signal and not voltage? Voltage modulation will cause extra noise and at some point kill the pump.


----------



## Imprezzion

I tested it and CPU_FAN is using PWM as is CPU_OPT.

The splitter is powering the pump and 6 Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM fans which work perfectly fine.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I tested it and CPU_FAN is using PWM as is CPU_OPT.
> 
> The splitter is powering the pump and 6 Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM fans which work perfectly fine.


Send me a PM so that I can try to troubleshoot this for you. If you can post a recording of it that will also help.


----------



## EarlZ

Hey bram. Sent you a PM.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Hey bram. Sent you a PM.


I got it and responded. I'm sorry that I can't resolve this for you any sooner.


----------



## Agoniizing

Is it ok if I use my H100 mounting hardware with my H220?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Is it ok if I use my H100 mounting hardware with my H220?


Yep


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yep


Thanks! Do I have to use the H220 screws? Or can I use the H100 screws?


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Thanks! Do I have to use the H220 screws? Or can I use the H100 screws?


I used my H60 bracket, standoffs, and thumb screws on mine. Worked like a charm


----------



## Skullwipe

I'm lazy and just today mounted the H220 I received from an RMA almost 2 months ago. All is well so far, pump is a bit noisier than the first unit, temps are also much higher, breaking 90c in P95 blend after less than 30 seconds. i5 3570k 4.4 Ghz - 1.190 Vcore


----------



## Phelan

Sounds like an air bubble or mis mount.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sounds like an air bubble or mis mount.


Mount feels solid, but paste may have gotten moved around while adjusting the back plate. I plan to remount it tomorrow, and I hear none of the noises associated with an air bubble.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'm lazy and just today mounted the H220 I received from an RMA almost 2 months ago. All is well so far, pump is a bit noisier than the first unit, temps are also much higher, breaking 90c in P95 blend after less than 30 seconds. i5 3570k 4.4 Ghz - 1.190 Vcore


Sounds like you have the water block not mounted solidly and that you have not applied the tim properly. I suggest you unscrew the block pull it up and see whether the tim is distributed properly. If not clean off all the old tim with solution until the nickel covered cpu is eextremely clean and the water block copper is shiny. Then reapply tim. Makes sure when you install the block again that it is seated properly.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Sounds like you have the water block not mounted solidly and that you have not applied the tim properly. I suggest you unscrew the block pull it up and see whether the tim is distributed properly. If not clean off all the old tim with solution until the nickel covered cpu is eextremely clean and the water block copper is shiny. Then reapply tim. Makes sure when you install the block again that it is seated properly.


Reapplied paste and did 2 more mountings, used the provided TIM and AS5.


----------



## chang87

Hi Guys,

I just received my H220 yesterday and installed it earlier today. Its much better but I definitely hear a waterfall sound effect when the pump is on full speed.














BTW, whats the best pump orientation for the H220? Just wondering


----------



## fifty

hello, i installed the swiftech apogee drive 2 with the packed mcp350x and 2 rads (120 alphacool and swiftech mqpres 220 with integrated rad, swiftech microress and all) it is basically teh h320.
now my question is since im a complete noob, does the apogee drive have to have both the moelx and 4 pin connected respectively to the psu and cpu fan, or just the 4 pin for pwm capability?
i tried both and with cpu fan only, but the temp in the bios were getting 55c so i turned it off and attached the molex as well and all seem fine, except the pump is a bit noisy.
Is there any way or app that i can use to lower the pump speed to the lowest possible setting because now its sitting at 2000 rpm (bios says that). The pump is the only thing i can hear, i made liquid cooling and not it is more noisy than my ald archon...not much, but more. Temps are great tough. 27c on cpu (4770k stock for now) and 27c gpu (gtx 770 with universal core lt block).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> hello, i installed the swiftech apogee drive 2 with the packed mcp350x and 2 rads (120 alphacool and swiftech mqpres 220 with integrated rad, swiftech microress and all) it is basically teh h320.
> now my question is since im a complete noob, does the apogee drive have to have both the moelx and 4 pin connected respectively to the psu and cpu fan, or just the 4 pin for pwm capability?
> i tried both and with cpu fan only, but the temp in the bios were getting 55c so i turned it off and attached the molex as well and all seem fine, except the pump is a bit noisy.
> Is there any way or app that i can use to lower the pump speed to the lowest possible setting because now its sitting at 2000 rpm (bios says that). The pump is the only thing i can hear, i made liquid cooling and not it is more noisy than my ald archon...not much, but more. Temps are great tough. 27c on cpu (4770k stock for now) and 27c gpu (gtx 770 with universal core lt block).


Both the molex and the fan header need to be plugged with the APD2. If you're getting a bit of noose at 2000 RPM, 99% of the time it's a pesky air bubble. In the 1st post on page 1 of this thread, there are instructions on how to remove air bubbles from an H220- these are also applicable in your case.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I just received my H220 yesterday and installed it earlier today. Its much better but I definitely hear a waterfall sound effect when the pump is on full speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, whats the best pump orientation for the H220? Just wondering


probably have air in the pump impeller area. I see in the picture you have the reservoir cap on the radiator pointing down. Flip it so it's pointing up, that might eventually fix your waterfall sound over time.

There is no best orientation for the h220 pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Reapplied paste and did 2 more mountings, used the provided TIM and AS5.


Let me know if topping it off resolves your issue.


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Both the molex and the fan header need to be plugged with the APD2. If you're getting a bit of noose at 2000 RPM, 99% of the time it's a pesky air bubble. In the 1st post on page 1 of this thread, there are instructions on how to remove air bubbles from an H220- these are also applicable in your case.


thank you, ill try to fix this.
also how do i control the pump speed? in bios it says 40% as minimun (i have z87 msi mpower board), and in win can i use speed fan or?


----------



## Queesy

Hello,

I just bought an H220 and the backplate will not screw into my motherboard. Everytime I push one side down the other side raises way up.

I have an AsRock Extreme4 LGA 1155 Z77. The plate that holds down the cpu with the arm lever interferes with the swiftech's backplate.

please help =[.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just bought an H220 and the backplate will not screw into my motherboard. Everytime I push one side down the other side raises way up.
> 
> I have an AsRock Extreme4 LGA 1155 Z77. The plate that holds down the cpu with the arm lever interferes with the swiftech's backplate.
> 
> please help =[.


I think the issue is that you don't have the adjustable back plate lined up properly. You need to have the notched side lined up with the screws on your motherboard's integrated back plate. Let me know if this helps to resolve your issue.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> thank you, ill try to fix this.
> also how do i control the pump speed? in bios it says 40% as minimun (i have z87 msi mpower board), and in win can i use speed fan or?


I dunno about your particular board, but if there is a manual option, you can try that and try adjusting the speed in speedfan. If it gives you the option of pwm or voltage, make sure to choose pwm, though it may not give you the option.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think the issue is that you don't have the adjustable back plate lined up properly. You need to have the notched side lined up with the screws on your motherboard's integrated back plate. Let me know if this helps to resolve your issue.




is this what you are talking about?


----------



## ElementR

Is it safe to top the coolant off with distilled? I have never opened my cooler or drained the fluid. I have to run it @ 100% speed for 10-15 mins every time I turn on my PC to get the bubbles out of the pump. I have owned other AIO coolers and made a few custom loops as well and have never had an issue like this before.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> Is it safe to top the coolant off with distilled? I have never opened my cooler or drained the fluid. I have to run it @ 100% speed for 10-15 mins every time I turn on my PC to get the bubbles out of the pump. I have owned other AIO coolers and made a few custom loops as well and have never had an issue like this before.


Yep, it is safe to top it off with distilled. Bramsli (Bryan) recommend it a number of times before along this thread.

Cheers


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, it is safe to top it off with distilled. Bramsli (Bryan) recommend it a number of times before along this thread.
> 
> Cheers


Thanks! I searched for distilled and It was 8 pages long, I read though the first one completely and none of them had the info I was after. I was about to toss this thing in the trash because its so aggravating. I do not understand why it wasn't filled properly in the first place.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> Thanks! I searched for distilled and It was 8 pages long, I read though the first one completely and none of them had the info I was after. I was about to toss this thing in the trash because its so aggravating. I do not understand why it wasn't filled properly in the first place.


If is not installed already in the case or if you by chance take it out for filling make sure to properly bleeding it outside the case. I found out that some amount of shaking and twisting with the cap off helps getting rid of the last bubbles and making space for some more water/liquid.

Hope that helps and good luck

cheers


----------



## ez12a

im running pure distilled on my 2nd pump with a silver coil. no major issues to report.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> Reapplied paste and did 2 more mountings, used the provided TIM and AS5.


Have you figured out the problem yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> probably have air in the pump impeller area. I see in the picture you have the reservoir cap on the radiator pointing down. Flip it so it's pointing up, that might eventually fix your waterfall sound over time.


To point the res cap up you have to flip the whole rad+fans right? Can't have fans pushing air up through rad and cap facing up?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> I was about to toss this thing in the trash because its so aggravating. I do not understand why it wasn't filled properly in the first place.


So topping it off fixed the noise / air bubbles when you start your computer?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> hello, i installed the swiftech apogee drive 2 with the packed mcp350x and 2 rads (120 alphacool and swiftech mqpres 220 with integrated rad, swiftech microress and all) it is basically teh h320.
> now my question is since im a complete noob, does the apogee drive have to have both the moelx and 4 pin connected respectively to the psu and cpu fan, or just the 4 pin for pwm capability?
> i tried both and with cpu fan only, but the temp in the bios were getting 55c so i turned it off and attached the molex as well and all seem fine, except the pump is a bit noisy.
> Is there any way or app that i can use to lower the pump speed to the lowest possible setting because now its sitting at 2000 rpm (bios says that). The pump is the only thing i can hear, i made liquid cooling and not it is more noisy than my ald archon...not much, but more. Temps are great tough. 27c on cpu (4770k stock for now) and 27c gpu (gtx 770 with universal core lt block).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> thank you, ill try to fix this.
> also how do i control the pump speed? in bios it says 40% as minimun (i have z87 msi mpower board), and in win can i use speed fan or?


yes you can only plug 1 of the cords in

but it has to be the molex plug not the PWM header.
molex provides power PWM provides speed control and rpm signal

make sure your fan is set to pwm or auto in bios .
you can use speed fan or any number of fan speed programs out to control speed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> 
> 
> is this what you are talking about?


i think those are the AMD mounts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR*
> 
> Is it safe to top the coolant off with distilled? I have never opened my cooler or drained the fluid. I have to run it @ 100% speed for 10-15 mins every time I turn on my PC to get the bubbles out of the pump. I have owned other AIO coolers and made a few custom loops as well and have never had an issue like this before.


#1 ing in any coolant is distilled water


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> To point the res cap up you have to flip the whole rad+fans right? Can't have fans pushing air up through rad and cap facing up?


you can flip the fans so they at least pull air through the rad. There is minimal difference between single push or pull. it'll be easier to clean the radiator too.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> im running pure distilled on my 2nd pump with a silver coil. no major issues to report.


Is it recommended to add a silver coil to H320? Do you just drop it in?

Or would using one of these be better? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_301&products_id=24245


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Is it recommended to add a silver coil to H320? Do you just drop it in?
> 
> Or would using one of these be better? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_301&products_id=24245


i stick it into one of the tubes, as my loop is custom. I just make sure to put it on the output side of the pump.

but that plug looks like it would work too.

edit: actually, just get a kill coil. I'm reading on other threads that this plug wears out over time as it's coated and not solid silver. Coils are full silver and will last indefinitely.


----------



## chang87

I'm currently bleeding my swiftech h220. Yesterday it sounded like The Niagara falls was inside my pump. Now it's much better.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Is it recommended to add a silver coil to H320? Do you just drop it in?
> 
> Or would using one of these be better? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_301&products_id=24245


no it is not needed as long as you are using the stock coolant.

if you ever change out the coolant and just use distilled then yes either a silver coil or a biocide either IandH deadwater or ptnuke ( the blue one dont use the other, the other has bleach which eats rubber over time. granted it is a small small amount )


----------



## crabula

Thanks Mega Man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> you can flip the fans so they at least pull air through the rad. There is minimal difference between single push or pull. it'll be easier to clean the radiator too.


Thanks! So you can mount the rad to the top of the case with res cap facing up by the screws that go through the fans and attach to the rad? Sorry for all the newbie questions, just trying to get this right.

I'm ready to buy, but I can't decide if I'm going H320 with either NZXT H630 or Phantom 630, or H220 with either Nanoxia DS1 or Fractal R4. Are the NZXTs really that flimsy? Kinda leaning toward H630.


----------



## delpy8

hi guys,

Anyone know where in the UK/EU I can buy the swiftech H320 cant seem to fine one anywhere

Thanks


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Thanks Mega Man.
> Thanks! So you can mount the rad to the top of the case with res cap facing up by the screws that go through the fans and attach to the rad? Sorry for all the newbie questions, just trying to get this right.
> 
> I'm ready to buy, but I can't decide if I'm going H320 with either NZXT H630 or Phantom 630, or H220 with either Nanoxia DS1 or Fractal R4. Are the NZXTs really that flimsy? Kinda leaning toward H630.


You do it that way or use regular fat self tapping fan screws to Mount the fans (which are connected to the rad) to the case.


----------



## chang87

Hi guys,

My i7-3770k is currently running 4.7ghz, are these temps OK? What do you think? Its being cooled by an H220.

BTW, I'm from the Philippines so the ambient temps here is around 31c-35c and I don't have AC in my room.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> My i7-3770k is currently running 4.7ghz, are these temps OK? What do you think? Its being cooled by an H220.
> 
> BTW, I'm from the Philippines so the ambient temps here is around 31c-35c and I don't have AC in my room.


I would be a little bit worried about temps reaching 96 degrees...However, I suppose that was under intelburntest which puts a load way to heavy compared to normal use. Do some gaming session or do whatever heavy task you do with your computer normally and check temps. They should be well below that 96 degrees maximum you observed. But anything above 85 degrees will force me to down a notch in my OC. So, keep an eye on it because those are dangerous temps you report in the HWinfo maximum.


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would be a little bit worried about temps reaching 96 degrees...However, I suppose that was under intelburntest which puts a load way to heavy compared to normal use. Do some gaming session or do whatever heavy task you do with your computer normally and check temps. They should be well below that 96 degrees maximum you observed. But anything above 85 degrees will force me to down a notch in my OC. So, keep an eye on it because those are dangerous temps you report in the HWinfo maximum.


Well, gaming sessions is definitely below 70c... I always play DOTA 2 and its around 67c on the hottest core...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Well, gaming sessions is definitely below 70c... I always play DOTA 2 and its around 67c on the hottest core...


I'd say your temps are good considering your ambient







. As long as it not getting above the 80's in gaming and your expected tasks I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I'd say your temps are good considering your ambient
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As long as it not getting above the 80's in gaming and your expected tasks I wouldn't worry about it.


I really wanted to try OCing in my mom's room. She has AC there. I wonder what temps I'd be getting.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> I really wanted to try OCing in my mom's room. She has AC there. I wonder what temps I'd be getting.


If there the temps are like 10 degrees below you will be getting ~ 10 C below. The delta (cpu temp - room temp) should be ~the same.

As Phelan said just keep an eye for temps above 80´s.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> Anyone know where in the UK/EU I can buy the swiftech H320 cant seem to fine one anywhere
> 
> Thanks


Hey

I ordered mine from amazon and saw a H320 on there to you should also check all the amazon bigger sites of europe like:

H320 @ amazon.fr for 157.79eur not sure if they post to whereever you are located to check them out =)

Also does anyone have any info on about how much did your temps drop when you added an extra rad into your loop?
I ordered my H220 and plan on adding my GTX 780 to it, so i think i need another rad for 1300+ OC on it.


----------



## sdmf74

Hey guys can someone tell me what swiftech uses for stock coolant?? I found this "Swiftech HydrX PM Premixed UV-Reactive Coolant" at performance pc's it's green, is this what they are shipped with?


----------



## EarlZ

My coolant was lightblue.


----------



## zila

The H220 comes with HydrX-PM2. Yup, it's light blue in color.


----------



## sdmf74

ok Thanx


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> My i7-3770k is currently running 4.7ghz, are these temps OK? What do you think? Its being cooled by an H220.
> 
> BTW, I'm from the Philippines so the ambient temps here is around 31c-35c and I don't have AC in my room.


No such thing as winter in the Philippines i suppose


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> No such thing as winter in the Philippines i suppose


How I wish there's winter here.


----------



## tongerks

H220 user here from philippines. no issue so far, i hear bubbling sound when i flip the rad when running but it will gone after a minute.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> H220 user here from philippines. no issue so far, i hear bubbling sound when i flip the rad when running but it will gone after a minute.


Cool! How many months have you had the H220 ?


----------



## fifty

thank you guys for the help.
im running now the apogee drive 2 with the same rad of the h220 and it is deadly silent and temperatures are freaking great.
1300 rpm for the pump , couple of noiseblocker eloops on the swiftech rad plus 1 more alphacool 120mm with a cougar fan, everything exceed any good prevision.
i strongly recommend, from the short expirience im having with integrated res on the rad, to add a swiftech microres as well so you can clearly see if there are bubbles in your loop and if so remove them quickly.
most of the noise is coming directly from air bubbles.
only thing i can hear is the psu that i already got a seasonic p1000 here as a new replacement, and it should work fanless till 400/450watt.


----------



## chang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> H220 user here from philippines. no issue so far, i hear bubbling sound when i flip the rad when running but it will gone after a minute.


Those long tubes...

I already cut around 4" on one side and 6" on the other. Now my tubings look neater. *i think*


----------



## bobsaget

Yeah i did the same in my Prodigy. It looks way better


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> ok Thanx


You can use the UV green HydrX coolant also if you can't find PM 2.


----------



## Imprezzion

Going to change my 2600K kit for a 3820 kit.

Curious how the H320 will hold up against the 4x8t violence of a 2011 CPU







Probably not much different from my 2600K and I sure hope the 3820 I bought is capable of 5Ghz









Why a 3820? Cause I got one hell of a deal on a G1 Assassin 2 board (new for just €97) and the CPU was also just €160 (tray, used).
I'll go 3930k/4930k once I really need it







At least 2011 has upgrade room, 1155 doesn't anymore.

I am now using a CM HAF 932 Advanced and the H320 fits in it with the biggest ease in push-pull leaving 4CM left to the top of the board heatsinks.

Pump is still slightly noisy when revving up but it's pretty quiet after I bled out air yet again when I was swapping case (hotwired a PSU and let the pump run for a while with the fillcap off and gave it a few proper shakes, topped her off after that and now it's much more quiet)


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Going to change my 2600K kit for a 3820 kit.
> 
> Curious how the H320 will hold up against the 4x8t violence of a 2011 CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not much different from my 2600K and I sure hope the 3820 I bought is capable of 5Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why a 3820? Cause I got one hell of a deal on a G1 Assassin 2 board (new for just €97) and the CPU was also just €160 (tray, used).
> I'll go 3930k/4930k once I really need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least 2011 has upgrade room, 1155 doesn't anymore.
> 
> I am now using a CM HAF 932 Advanced and the H320 fits in it with the biggest ease in push-pull leaving 4CM left to the top of the board heatsinks.
> 
> Pump is still slightly noisy when revving up but it's pretty quiet after I bled out air yet again when I was swapping case (hotwired a PSU and let the pump run for a while with the fillcap off and gave it a few proper shakes, topped her off after that and now it's much more quiet)


Well I have an h220 and a 3930k at 4.6ghz and 1.32v under load from IBT Very High at 21-22c ambient I sit around 64-70c. At idle It sits anywhere from 25c-32c. I am not sure if the 3820's temps are similar to the 3930k but I find the h220 to be extremely capable when it comes to OC LGA2011. I feel like I could take it to 4.7-4.9 but have no need for what I am using the chip for.


----------



## CoolProject

what are the best fans to match with the Swiftech H320 in push pull?
Gentle Typhoon, noctua or corsair?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> what are the best fans to match with the Swiftech H320 in push pull?
> Gentle Typhoon, noctua or corsair?


I think GT's are the best, but the rad on the H220/H320 is so low FPI, you really don't gain very much with p/p, maybe like 1-2C.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Im not sure if I should wait for my H220 to arrive or should I just order a 240mm extra radiator for it early, I know that i want silence and great temps for 4770K 4.5+ and gtx 780 1300/7200
Anyone running anything similar, how are the temps ?


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well I have an h220 and a 3930k at 4.6ghz and 1.32v under load from IBT Very High at 21-22c ambient I sit around 64-70c. At idle It sits anywhere from 25c-32c. I am not sure if the 3820's temps are similar to the 3930k but I find the h220 to be extremely capable when it comes to OC LGA2011. I feel like I could take it to 4.7-4.9 but have no need for what I am using the chip for.


Well fork. The G1 Assassin 2 has bent pins...

Sending it back and getting a GA-X79-UD3 as a replacement... I hope that board can handle a 5Ghz OC and has enough VRM power for it..


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well fork. The G1 Assassin 2 has bent pins...
> 
> Sending it back and getting a GA-X79-UD3 as a replacement... I hope that board can handle a 5Ghz OC and has enough VRM power for it..


I have heard its a pretty decent board but I don't think iv ever seen anyone hit 5ghz on it but you could look around at some reviews. I am sure someone has OC'd on it









Tough luck with the pins.. I wouldn't be to happy.


----------



## Imprezzion

I aint.. Appearantly it was a ex RMA board and they didn't check what was wrong but just put it up for sale again..

They have this action in which refurb/open box / old stock items are sold at a 1% discount extra every 24 hours so I got the G1 Ass. 2 really cheap at 61% discount..

Was really happy I got it so cheap but this is quite a downer.
I can fix the pins as they arent bent sharply or anything but..

I think i'll call their tech support monday to ask if they allow me to try to fix the pins first. If it works I might keep it..


----------



## M00NIE

Im trynig to get hold of a h320 in the UK with no luck. Does anyone know any other UK sites i might be able to get one, tried the offical ones from swiftech aswell as amazon, ebay ect..

Just being reassured that this will fit in a 750d no problem?


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> what are the best fans to match with the Swiftech H320 in push pull?
> Gentle Typhoon, noctua or corsair?


I'm using the Cougar Dual-X in Push/pull and at full tilt they're barely audible and I'm very happy with the temps I get.


----------



## Allygash

Coolproject,

Forget all those puny fans, ive put 3 sanyo denki (9G1212H101 120*38mm) fans on my H320 undervolted. Silent and unreal performance compared with any 120mm fans ive tried. This cooler was 8c-10c better than my previous Kraken x60. Forgot how good these fans are especially when undervolted and silent, love that static pressure with larger rads.

However on my second H320 & H220, both pump issues so think swiftech have q&a issues with these AIO's, but they are far superior to all the others i've used(corsair h100i, h110 & kraken x60)


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Coolproject,
> 
> Forget all those puny fans, ive put 3 sanyo denki (9G1212H101 120*38mm) fans on my H320 undervolted. Silent and unreal performance compared with any 120mm fans ive tried. This cooler was 8c-10c better than my previous Kraken x60. Forgot how good these fans are especially when undervolted and silent, love that static pressure with larger rads.
> 
> However on my second H320 & H220, both pump issues so think swiftech have q&a issues with these AIO's, but they are far superior to all the others i've used(corsair h100i, h110 & kraken x60)


For how long have you had the second set?


----------



## Allygash

Second H220 is sitting in box still(RMA set), same problem as first original batch, pump kept stopping when CPU stressed. Fixed in new batch.

Changed out my H320 in main pc on Friday. Pump was making a racket, swiftech asked me to try "the remove air bubble " trick. Spent ages shaking rad and moving case side to side and back to front. I even took the thing out of the case and gave the pump(powered) and rad a proper shake. Nothing worked so I bgt another. I decided against another brand because the H320 murdered the opposition performance wise(I live in a 30c+ region). Also support by swiftech is excellent despite the constant disassembly of my pcs which is a pain.

Hopefully this is the end of issues.... not holding breath but i feel its worth the effort for the marked increase in performance

PS used Sanyo denkis on both H220 and H320


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Second H220 is sitting in box still(RMA set), same problem as first original batch, pump kept stopping when CPU stressed. Fixed in new batch.
> 
> Changed out my H320 in main pc on Friday. Pump was making a racket, swiftech asked me to try "the remove air bubble " trick. Spent ages shaking rad and moving case side to side and back to front. I even took the thing out of the case and gave the pump(powered) and rad a proper shake. Nothing worked so I bgt another. I decided against another brand because the H320 murdered the opposition performance wise(I live in a 30c+ region). Also support by swiftech is excellent despite the constant disassembly of my pcs which is a pain.
> 
> Hopefully this is the end of issues.... not holding breath but i feel its worth the effort for the marked increase in performance
> 
> PS used Sanyo denkis on both H220 and H320


The pump I have now also randomly stops at time triggering the CPU alarm before it went really noisy even with the new impeller on it.


----------



## Imprezzion

Lol, my pump has never stopped on me yet. Does still make noise on certain RPM's. Mostly between 30-50% PWM power.

As for fans, as far as PWM fans go I really looove my noiseblockers. (BlackSilentFan XL-P 2K RPM).

Noisy at full speed but amazing airflow. Really high CFM and decent statics for a low FPI rad.

They do much better then the 1700RPM Apollish Vegas' i had on it before. They seriously lack static pressure due to the LEDs and the distance the blades have to the casing.


----------



## delpy8

Hi will the Noiseblocker nb-eloop B12-PS1500rpm be okay for my h320 or am I better with the 2000rpm ones be better


----------



## Imprezzion

Depends on your preference. I doubt it will make a big difference in temps but I like to think I got max performance under load









Both will idle @ minmal RPM so only under loud will they be loud.

The 2000RPM's are properly loud when used in push pull though. 6 of those beasts at 2K RPM makes quite a racket but I don't mind as it'll only happen in benching / games and that's when I want max cooling.


----------



## Allygash

Try to remember for rads its about static pressure not RPM.......

Maybe have a read through this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223391


----------



## Imprezzion

The 2K RPM noiseblockers have 2.36mm h2o. That's plenty for a low FPI rad like the H320's.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> The 2K RPM noiseblockers have 2.36mm h2o. That's plenty for a low FPI rad like the H320's.


I think the 1500rpm ones have an sp of 1.475 mm H2O and is that OK for static pressure


----------



## delpy8

hi all
ive got a few questions im needing answered if you guys dont mind
1.do i need to run a leak test on the H320 before installing in pc
2.im using the corsair cooling node with my current h100i, can I connect the 3 stock fans to this and control via corsair software.
3.Im using the asus maximus extreme vi, Can i reduce pump speed via bios and which onboard connector is best for the cpu/pump
4.where is best to locate the radiator in my corsair 900d
thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi all
> ive got a few questions im needing answered if you guys dont mind
> 1.do i need to run a leak test on the H320 before installing in pc
> 2.im using the corsair cooling node with my current h100i, can I connect the 3 stock fans to this and control via corsair software.
> 3.Im using the asus maximus extreme vi, Can i reduce pump speed via bios and which onboard connector is best for the cpu/pump
> 4.where is best to locate the radiator in my corsair 900d
> thanks


1) on the safe side yes, would be ok to run a leak test before. But is not a requirement since this comes factory sealed (well perhaps seal is not the correct word...let's say ready for use). I only heard of two cases so far where a leak did occur in two h220 units.
2) not sure. All fans in the h320 are PWM controlled. So, your Corsair node have 3 or 4 pins headers? Are you sure, if they are 4 pins, that they are PWM?
3) Use the PWM splitter provided with the kit. This will make sure the pump gets 12 v from the molex/sata conector (whichever version you have) while PWM signal comes from the cpu fan header of the MB.
4) I would personally place it in one of the spots below the case and configure it as intake. That will make sure it gets cool air and above the case you can use other fans without rads as exhaust.

Hope that helps


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Try to remember for rads its about static pressure not RPM.......
> 
> Maybe have a read through this http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223391


That is not true for all rads.
Higher FPI does require more SP, low FPI do not.
H220/H320 is considered low FPI of 13. Where CFM will play a larger roll for cooling.


----------



## gdubc

That corsair cooling node uses 4 pin connections but I am almost positive it doesn't use pwm. If it was a pwm enabled controller it would be a steal.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is not true for all rads.
> Higher FPI does require more SP, low FPI do not.
> H220/H320 is considered low FPI of 13. Where CFM will play a larger roll for cooling.


Besides, maximum CFM and SP figures reported in spcs does not warranty real world performance which would be somewhere along the curve for most fans due to rad obstruction....


----------



## Mega Man

ill just drop this here

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1) on the safe side yes, would be ok to run a leak test before. But is not a requirement since this comes factory sealed (well perhaps seal is not the correct word...let's say ready for use). I only heard of two cases so far where a leak did occur in two h220 units.
> 2) not sure. All fans in the h320 are PWM controlled. So, your Corsair node have 3 or 4 pins headers? Are you sure, if they are 4 pins, that they are PWM?
> 3) Use the PWM splitter provided with the kit. This will make sure the pump gets 12 v from the molex/sata conector (whichever version you have) while PWM signal comes from the cpu fan header of the MB.
> 4) I would personally place it in one of the spots below the case and configure it as intake. That will make sure it gets cool air and above the case you can use other fans without rads as exhaust.
> 
> Hope that helps


Thanks very much


----------



## winderic

Anyone know if H220 will fit on top of case CM690 Standard? Thanks


----------



## Proclaim89

Hey guys I have a h320 and just today when I went to turn my computer on the swiftech h320 started to rev up verrrry fast. Went into bios to see I was running at 122ºC!! Id normally be at 73 so I dont know whats going on. But I an definetely not happy, ive only had this for about a month more or less, and I do believe it is something to do with the pump because the lower half of the tubing is warm whilst my radiator is at room temp. If there is anyway that I can confirm that it is the pump please let me know, much appreciated.







oh here is a pic of it also.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proclaim89*
> 
> Hey guys I have a h320 and just today when I went to turn my computer on the swiftech h320 started to rev up verrrry fast. Went into bios to see I was running at 122ºC!! Id normally be at 73 so I dont know whats going on. But I an definetely not happy, ive only had this for about a month more or less, and I do believe it is something to do with the pump because the lower half of the tubing is warm whilst my radiator is at room temp. If there is anyway that I can confirm that it is the pump please let me know, much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh here is a pic of it also.


Can you confirm if the pump is actually running ?


----------



## Proclaim89

Well thats the question I asked if I could find out how I could confirm it,everything else is functioning normally and the only thing I can think of is the pump. Ive tried turning it on and testing if the coolant was flowing but there was no movement and I couldnt hear any thing coming from the pump.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proclaim89*
> 
> Well thats the question I asked if I could find out how I could confirm it,everything else is functioning normally and the only thing I can think of is the pump. Ive tried turning it on and testing if the coolant was flowing but there was no movement and I couldnt hear any thing coming from the pump.


Check your bios to see if it has a read out of RPM on pwm controlled devices, most do. When my pump died, I verified it wasn't running by going into bios and the pump had no reading at all.


----------



## NeoDestiny

3rd H220's pump is starting to sound like a wind turbine...Holy Jesus, I wouldn't believe anyone if they told me they'd gotten two RMAs that went bad...so many reliability issues with this, it seems crazy. .__.

Off to the Thermaltake for me, good luck guys...


----------



## tongerks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Cool! How many months have you had the H220 ?


i bought h220 last july 3 and im using it until now


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Cool! How many months have you had the H220 ?
> 
> 
> 
> i bought h220 last july 3 and im using it until now
Click to expand...

Have you been running it at full speed?


----------



## Proclaim89

Ok so im on x58, went into my pc health status, and well here it is. Was planning on getting a 7990 aswell.


----------



## EarlZ

Well its showing 0RPM on the CPU fan speed provided you have the pump connected to the PWM splitter and and its 4pin to the CPU header. The current pump I have now also stopped working on me twice. I am currently waiting for replacement pump that already has the new impeller as the current one I have is making noise about 2 weeks after the impeller was changed.

I am just glad that Swiftech as superb customer service globally.


----------



## Proclaim89

Yep connected to splitter and 4pin to cpu fan header. If it means anything, im in AUS and bought it from PCCG. Back to stock for now, gonna have to buy thermal paste aswell. Grr


----------



## delpy8

i know im jumping the GUN as my H320 has not been delivered yet, but how does the warranty situation stand for me as I bought this from the Netherlands and Im in Scotland? Does Swiftech pickup the waranty or is it with the etailer ?

Cheers


----------



## zila

Proclaim89, did you try hooking up the pump directly to a fan header? That way you could see if the problem might be with the pwm fan splitter.


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> i know im jumping the GUN as my H320 has not been delivered yet, but how does the warranty situation stand for me as I bought this from the Netherlands and Im in Scotland? Does Swiftech pickup the waranty or is it with the etailer ?
> 
> Cheers


Im trying to get a H320 here in the UK but its sold out all the places i know, can i ask where you got yours from?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> i know im jumping the GUN as my H320 has not been delivered yet, but how does the warranty situation stand for me as I bought this from the Netherlands and Im in Scotland? Does Swiftech pickup the waranty or is it with the etailer ?
> 
> Cheers


In your case the warranty would be serviced by our European distributor Bacata.net. We monitor the communications between our customers and Bacata, during this process to make sure that everything goes as smoothly as possible. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Im trying to get a H320 here in the UK but its sold out all the places i know, can i ask where you got yours from?


I ordered mine from HERE if they ship it to me im sure UK shouldnt be a problem ( its really cheap shipping aswell or you pay a few euro premium to get in in 1-2 days ), but if it turns out they dont ship to UK, you can also try HERE I dont speak either french or spanish but you can just translate the page with google translate under your right click in chrome atleast.
Also a person from the french amazon team called me to verify something, so its all good, if u havent used amazon before you can check out the co.uk site first to see how to order. Enjoy ur unit =)


----------



## sikkly

So got my RMA in today and got it hooked up, and everything appears to be running smoothly. After the customary few seconds of water noises the pump is almost silent. Even at full blast the pump is quieter than the old unit running at 50% ever was, which is awesome. The only bad part was figuring out how the hell to pack the old unit up, should have paid attention to how it came out of the box.

Sadly I botched applying the TIM







Feeling a little under the weather and I wasn't being careful and just did a crappy job. I'll wait till I'm feeling better to take it off and remount it, my temperatures are about 5c warmer than before, getting up to 76c after running a burntest. Granted, I had P/P before and only push now, but from my previous tests that shouldn't effect it by more than 1-2 degrees.

Pretty happy with the whole process, still would recommend the h220/swfit to people on the edge of buying it. Every company is going to have defective products, and Swiftech has some of the best customer service out there when stuff does go wrong.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proclaim89*
> 
> Yep connected to splitter and 4pin to cpu fan header. If it means anything, im in AUS and bought it from PCCG. Back to stock for now, gonna have to buy thermal paste aswell. Grr


Connect it directly to the CPU Fan header on the board and change the CPU Smart Fan mode to PWM in the BIOS. Don't use the splitter and check the BIOS again


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would you guys think the H220 would manage GTX 780 @1.3v & [email protected] 1.3v alone with decent temps, without adding any rads ?


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Im trying to get a H320 here in the UK but its sold out all the places i know, can i ask where you got yours from?


http://highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h320-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html

Not a UK store but shipping shouldn't be too bad from NL.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would you guys think the H220 would manage GTX 780 @1.3v & [email protected] 1.3v alone with decent temps, without adding any rads ?


Depending on your ambient temperature and your case airflow, I would say that it should handle both of those with fairly decent temps.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks BramSLI1 for warranty info
I've received my h320 and it's very nice indeed and looks and feels solid. Is there anyway to test this before I install it in my pc? As I'm running an h100i at the moment


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> Pretty happy with the whole process, still would recommend the h220/swfit to people on the edge of buying it. Every company is going to have defective products, and Swiftech has some of the best customer service out their when stuff does go wrong.


yep, and it's still the leading AIO/CLC cooler on the market in terms of performance, beating out even the Eisberg.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Thanks BramSLI1 for warranty info
> I've received my h320 and it's very nice indeed and looks and feels solid. Is there anyway to test this before I install it in my pc? As I'm running an h100i at the moment


Yes, you can follow the video that we did here 



. About 10 minutes into the video it shows you how to jump start your power supply to test the pump outside of your case.


----------



## Mega Man

jump the green wire on your 24pin mobo cable to ANY black wire


----------



## Proclaim89

Ok tried directly into cpu header, didnt work. Packed it up and will be trying to get a replacement from my retailer. If that doesnt work ill have to rma to swiftech. Just wondering if there were many others that had this problem with the h320, or if I was just unlucky. Anyways thx for the help guys.


----------



## Imprezzion

I still don't trust my H320's pump to be honest but k.

I'll be swapping my board and CPU for a 3820 and a G1 Assassin 2 today so I got the H329 out of the case. I'll try to bleed air again and i'll use a jumped PSU to see where the noise is comin' from and whether I can get it to quiet down again.

Temps are great, don't get me wrong. Performance is amazing but still.. that noise..


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can follow the video that we did here
> 
> 
> 
> . About 10 minutes into the video it shows you how to jump start your power supply to test the pump outside of your case.


Thanks for video but could I not just connect the pump up to the extra cpu optional fan connector 4 pin on my motherboard


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Thanks for video but could I not just connect the pump up to the extra cpu optional fan connector 4 pin on my motherboard


Yes, you could do that too. If you're just using it for testing the pump and leak-checking, that should be fine.


----------



## crabula

I'm ready to buy a H320 (putting it in a Switch 810) but... I really don't want to have to RMA it if I get any of these pump problems... I live in Australia so RMA would probably take a while.

I'm thinking maybe I should just get a H100i with a couple gentle typhoons instead. Am I crazy?









Or maybe I should just bite the bullet, and perhaps get a cheap air cooler at the same time so I'm not left with stock cooling if I have to send the H320 away.

Any advice much appreciated.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> I'm ready to buy a H320 (putting it in a Switch 810) but... I really don't want to have to RMA it if I get any of these pump problems... I live in Australia so RMA would probably take a while.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I should just get a H100i with a couple gentle typhoons instead. Am I crazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe I should just bite the bullet, and perhaps get a cheap air cooler at the same time so I'm not left with stock cooling if I have to send the H320 away.
> 
> Any advice much appreciated.


IMO, the corsair H100i has nothing on the swiftech H220 and you can add your GPU and more rads to the H220 wich makes it even more awesome.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> I'm ready to buy a H320 (putting it in a Switch 810) but... I really don't want to have to RMA it if I get any of these pump problems... I live in Australia so RMA would probably take a while.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I should just get a H100i with a couple gentle typhoons instead. Am I crazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe I should just bite the bullet, and perhaps get a cheap air cooler at the same time so I'm not left with stock cooling if I have to send the H320 away.
> 
> Any advice much appreciated.


do the latter choice.

Corsair has their own problems too (i had an h100i then i returned it after the LEDs died on it less than a month in)
See their support forums: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/forumdisplay.php?f=155


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> I'm ready to buy a H320 (putting it in a Switch 810) but... I really don't want to have to RMA it if I get any of these pump problems... I live in Australia so RMA would probably take a while.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I should just get a H100i with a couple gentle typhoons instead. Am I crazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe I should just bite the bullet, and perhaps get a cheap air cooler at the same time so I'm not left with stock cooling if I have to send the H320 away.
> 
> Any advice much appreciated.


You just RMA it with the retailer, PCCase Gear for example. 9 times out of 10 they'll just send you a new one. Easy.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> You just RMA it with the retailer, PCCase Gear for example. 9 times out of 10 they'll just send you a new one. Easy.


Ah cool thanks peeps, yeah I just ordered H320 from PCCG









New Switch 810 and bunch of gear to go inside should be fun to play with soon!









Edit: I also picked up some "PrimoChill Ice - Clear" liquid in case I need to top up the H320, but it's just occurred to me that mixing different premixed might not be a good idea... should I have just bought some distilled water?


----------



## tmsmith

Well I hate to report back with issues but it seems my pump is dying. I've tried all the things I can think of but still nothing seems to work.

I'm getting a loud clicking sound like others reported (maybe there is air trapped somewhere) but I've tried tilting the computer and haven't had any luck. The pump continues to have a loud rattling sound. Looks like mine is on the fritz. Any ideas Bryan?


----------



## chang87

Changed the tubing and coolant on my Swiftech H220.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> I'm ready to buy a H320 (putting it in a Switch 810) but... I really don't want to have to RMA it if I get any of these pump problems... I live in Australia so RMA would probably take a while.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I should just get a H100i with a couple gentle typhoons instead. Am I crazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe I should just bite the bullet, and perhaps get a cheap air cooler at the same time so I'm not left with stock cooling if I have to send the H320 away.
> 
> Any advice much appreciated.


h220/320 or custom loop imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Ah cool thanks peeps, yeah I just ordered H320 from PCCG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Switch 810 and bunch of gear to go inside should be fun to play with soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I also picked up some "PrimoChill Ice - Clear" liquid in case I need to top up the H320, but it's just occurred to me that mixing different premixed might not be a good idea... should I have just bought some distilled water?


yes


----------



## robertpaulson

Anyone know if/when will us.ncix.com restock the H320?


----------



## Mega Man

when their canada division sends them a new shipment lol ( that is where they got their stock, that is my conspiracy )


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Can someone recommend what cooler liquid I should buy for my h320 on the off chance I need to top it up?
I'm in the UK so loads of etailers


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys
> Can someone recommend what cooler liquid I should buy for my h320 on the off chance I need to top it up?
> I'm in the UK so loads of etailers


Either use the swiftech hydrx pm 2, as that is what is in the cooler already, or distilled water. I'd personally just use distilled water to top it off, cheaper and just as good.


----------



## chang87

Finished Product!









Intel Core i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz
Asus GTX 660 Direct CU II TOP Edition
Asus P8Z77M-Pro
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB @ 2200Mhz (9-11-10-28-1)
120GB SanDisk Extreme
550W Seasonic G-550 (Gold Rating Efficiency)
Swiftech H220 (Modded)
Corsair Obsidian 350D
Cougar Dual-X Fans (1x120mm, 2x140mm)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys
> Can someone recommend what cooler liquid I should buy for my h320 on the off chance I need to top it up?
> I'm in the UK so loads of etailers


distilled !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chang87*
> 
> Finished Product!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz
> Asus GTX 660 Direct CU II TOP Edition
> Asus P8Z77M-Pro
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB @ 2200Mhz (9-11-10-28-1)
> 120GB SanDisk Extreme
> 550W Seasonic G-550 (Gold Rating Efficiency)
> Swiftech H220 (Modded)
> Corsair Obsidian 350D
> Cougar Dual-X Fans (1x120mm, 2x140mm)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks great


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Hi guys got my H220 back now after RMA went fine Bryan was a GREAT help and never failed to answer emails but when I got back my new unit one of the fans had got two crack in the plastic housing and when looking at it in more detail it was so bad the crack that the screw hole part has now come off I have managed to lodge it back and get a screw through JUST about but that's only fans so TBH I am not that bothered. But I noticed that the new unit I got is no where near as silent as my only one and I have been running it for a few days now no settings changed but I guess this is the sort of problems that come with water cooling as I don't really count the h220 as an AIO hens the air bubble problems everyone seems to get but fingers crossed it will get better and silent again


----------



## outofmyheadyo

did you bleed the loop after u got it to make sure no air is in places it shoudnt be ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmsmith*
> 
> Well I hate to report back with issues but it seems my pump is dying. I've tried all the things I can think of but still nothing seems to work.
> 
> I'm getting a loud clicking sound like others reported (maybe there is air trapped somewhere) but I've tried tilting the computer and haven't had any luck. The pump continues to have a loud rattling sound. Looks like mine is on the fritz. Any ideas Bryan?


Please PM me and I should be able to help you resolve this.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Hello everyone, I've developed the sound of sloshing water in my H220. Now it only happens when I have the pump speed above 45%. Anything below it goes away. I might just have to add water to it so my question is. Should I buy some of the liquid that comes in the H220 or is it fine to use some water from my water purifier since I'll probably be adding a very tiny amount?

Also I do have the block mounted sideways because a heatsink on my mobo doesn't allow me to mount it horizontal.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've developed the sound of sloshing water in my H220. Now it only happens when I have the pump speed above 45%. Anything below it goes away. I might just have to add water to it so my question is. Should I buy some of the liquid that comes in the H220 or is it fine to use some water from my water purifier since I'll probably be adding a very tiny amount?
> 
> Also I do have the block mounted sideways because a heatsink on my mobo doesn't allow me to mount it horizontal.


I recommend just using some distilled water to top it off. This is usually pretty easy to find and inexpensive. The orientation of your water block shouldn't matter.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I recommend just using some distilled water to top it off. This is usually pretty easy to find and inexpensive. The orientation of your water block shouldn't matter.


Alright cool, thank you! I'm sure I can find some at my local grocery store. I figured I let you know since I read some people on here saying the orientation can cause this issue. I'll report back if it fixes the sloshing water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Alright cool, thank you! I'm sure I can find some at my local grocery store. I figured I let you know since I read some people on here saying the orientation can cause this issue. I'll report back if it fixes the sloshing water.


Orientation of the radiator is what they were talking about. If you have the fill-port cap for the reservoir pointed down this removes the ability for the reservoir to act as an air trap. This means that any air in the loop has a possibility of ending up in the pump and this will cause it to be noisy.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Orientation of the radiator is what they were talking about. If you have the fill-port cap for the reservoir pointed down this removes the ability for the reservoir to act as an air trap. This means that any air in the loop has a possibility of ending up in the pump and this will cause it to be noisy.


Ooo okay, I have mine pointed up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Hello everyone, I've developed the sound of sloshing water in my H220. Now it only happens when I have the pump speed above 45%. Anything below it goes away. I might just have to add water to it so my question is. Should I buy some of the liquid that comes in the H220 or is it fine to use some water from my water purifier since I'll probably be adding a very tiny amount?
> 
> Also I do have the block mounted sideways because a heatsink on my mobo doesn't allow me to mount it horizontal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I recommend just using some distilled water to top it off. This is usually pretty easy to find and inexpensive. The orientation of your water block shouldn't matter.


this less then a buck and i can fill my loop ( big loop ) 1 time


----------



## abbb

I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions for dealing with the pump vibrating against the CPU. The pump noise is just fine, even at 100%, when it's not mounted to the motherboard, but the instant it touches the CPU, the vibration of the pump gets amplified and becomes loud, even at low percentages. Is there some trick to mounting it so that this noise can be reduced?

Also, when the CPU gets really hot, as in 70-90C (maybe less), some sloshing noises come from the pump, and then go away after the CPU cools back down. What could be causing this? The fill port on the reservoir is pointed up.


----------



## crabula

My H320 arrived, but the NZXT case got lost in shipping lol.

Guess I'll try running it jump started from an old PSU tomorrow to test it out. Is it safe to use a paperclip that doesn't have a plastic covering (I'm guessing touching it while the PSU is on would be a bad idea)?

Just to be sure, I have to use distilled water to top it up and not a coolant that is different from the stock one? (I picked up some PrimoChill stuff with it without thinking...)


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Orientation of the radiator is what they were talking about. If you have the fill-port cap for the reservoir pointed down this removes the ability for the reservoir to act as an air trap. This means that any air in the loop has a possibility of ending up in the pump and this will cause it to be noisy.


I'm looking at getting the H220 but I'm using the HAF XB so the radiator would be placed sideways. Would the problem be the same?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions for dealing with the pump vibrating against the CPU. The pump noise is just fine, even at 100%, when it's not mounted to the motherboard, but the instant it
> touches the CPU, the vibration of the pump gets amplified and becomes loud, even at low percentages. Is there some trick to mounting it so that this noise can be reduced?
> 
> Also, when the CPU gets really hot, as in 70-90C (maybe less), some sloshing noises come from the pump, and then go away after the CPU cools back down. What could be causing this? The fill port on the reservoir is pointed up.


Sounds like its not properly mounted on the CPU. Did you make sure that none of the motherboard heatsinks get in the way? Can you take a picture


----------



## delpy8

I'm a newbie so be gentle with my question.
Can I add a 2nd radiator to the pump?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> I'm a newbie so be gentle with my question.
> Can I add a 2nd radiator to the pump?


You can actually add a few rads and a few blocks the pump should be a beastly little thing on this unit =)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> I'm looking at getting the H220 but I'm using the HAF XB so the radiator would be placed sideways. Would the problem be the same?


That's correct. You'll encounter much the same issue as if you had the radiator mounted with the fill-port cap facing down.


----------



## Topsu

Are the pump problems really common?

Would you guys recommend this aio kit to anyone?


----------



## navit

It's a great aio, I haven't had any problems with mine, it has been flawless.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> You can actually add a few rads and a few blocks the pump should be a beastly little thing on this unit =)


Thanks that great to know so theoretically I can put the exact same radiator on say front of my 900d and one at the bottom Wow that would reduce my temps even more







can anyone tell what I need to connect another radiator to the pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

You'll need to add a couple of 3/8 by 5/8 fittings for the radiator, and you'll need extra tubing and coolant.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> Are the pump problems really common?
> 
> Would you guys recommend this aio kit to anyone?


As someone who just got done going through an RMA, I would heartily recommend this AIO over every AIO on the market. Every mechanical part is going to have failure. Go into the Corsair threads and look at how many issues people report on. Because watercooling is generally enthusiast only, quite a large part of the people who have issues will probably come to this thread and post their issues, making it seem like a lot of problems.

In all reality though, the majority of people are using this kit with no issues.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. You'll encounter much the same issue as if you had the radiator mounted with the fill-port cap facing down.


Thanks for the quick reply. I guess if I want to stick to a hassle free AIO, I'll have to switch cases.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll need to add a couple of 3/8 by 5/8 fittings for the radiator, and you'll need extra tubing and coolant.


Hey, thanks for the help ages ago, I finally expanded the loop a while back I will post pics tomorrow if I remember, but cheers again..


----------



## outofmyheadyo

And when you do have issues, you will be taken care of as a valued customer, swiftechs customer service is awesome.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Sounds like its not properly mounted on the CPU. Did you make sure that none of the motherboard heatsinks get in the way? Can you take a picture


It's not touching anything. I took off the screws and tested it by putting the bottom of the block on the CPU without actually mounting it, and it makes the same sound.
Here are some pictures:


http://imgur.com/b8kfF


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> It's not touching anything. I took off the screws and tested it by putting the bottom of the block on the CPU without actually mounting it, and it makes the same sound.
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/b8kfF


From looking at the picture that you posted it looks like the elbow fitting coming out of the top might be making contact with the top heat sink on your motherboard. Can you confirm that there is no contact being made there that would account for the noise that you're hearing?


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From looking at the picture that you posted it looks like the elbow fitting coming out of the top might be making contact with the top heat sink on your motherboard. Can you confirm that there is no contact being made there that would account for the noise that you're hearing?


There is no contact. The only contact is between the surface of the waterblock and the CPU, and the mounting screws. I did some testing by giving the pump power and pressing it to the CPU. When it's not touching the CPU, I can barely hear it at 100%, but right when I placed it on the CPU, it got alot louder. Tightening the screws doesn't do anything to reduce the noise.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> There is no contact. The only contact is between the surface of the waterblock and the CPU, and the mounting screws. I did some testing by giving the pump power and pressing it to the CPU. When it's not touching the CPU, I can barely hear it at 100%, but right when I placed it on the CPU, it got alot louder. Tightening the screws doesn't do anything to reduce the noise.


Is there a lot of vibration coming from the pump?


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is there a lot of vibration coming from the pump?


If you're talking about the vibrations themselves, When I touch the pump, it feels like it's making the same amount of vibrations as my old HDD does. If you're talking about the noise from the vibrations, the sound sounds like it's coming from the pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> My H320 arrived, but the NZXT case got lost in shipping lol.
> 
> Guess I'll try running it jump started from an old PSU tomorrow to test it out. Is it safe to use a paperclip that doesn't have a plastic covering (I'm guessing touching it while the PSU is on would be a bad idea)?
> 
> Just to be sure, I have to use distilled water to top it up and not a coolant that is different from the stock one? (I picked up some PrimoChill stuff with it without thinking...)


yes you can use a paperclip with no issues about touching it while it is on. it is very very low voltage, extremely tiny amps and DC ( ac is more dangerous, however all voltage can be dangerous )

do it at your own risk and make sure you know what you are doing, if colored wires green wire ( only 1 in the 24 pin ) to black ( any work they are all ground )

if all wires are black i can get you a wiring diagram

yes i would recommend using same coolant or distilled. not using differing coolant, with that said it probably wouldnt hurt to mix coolants...... but is it really worth the risk with distilled being ~$1 at walmart or w.e. store you use...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> I'm a newbie so be gentle with my question.
> Can I add a 2nd radiator to the pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> You can actually add a few rads and a few blocks the pump should be a beastly little thing on this unit =)











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> Are the pump problems really common?
> 
> Would you guys recommend this aio kit to anyone?


everyone i meet that wants an aio i recommend this to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sikkly*
> 
> As someone who just got done going through an RMA, I would heartily recommend this AIO over every AIO on the market. Every mechanical part is going to have failure. Go into the Corsair threads and look at how many issues people report on. Because watercooling is generally enthusiast only, quite a large part of the people who have issues will probably come to this thread and post their issues, making it seem like a lot of problems.
> 
> In all reality though, the majority of people are using this kit with no issues.


3% rma rate from gabe ( CEO of swiftech )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> And when you do have issues, you will be taken care of as a valued customer, swiftechs customer service is awesome.


best in class.... i would argue best company every for customer service....

in other news bought a h220 for my htpc !~ all my rigs are swiftech cooled now !~


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> If you're talking about the vibrations themselves, When I touch the pump, it feels like it's making the same amount of vibrations as my old HDD does. If you're talking about the noise from the vibrations, the sound sounds like it's coming from the pump.


In that case please PM me so that I can help you resolve this issue.


----------



## zila

My new rma'd kit has been running at 100% pump and fans for the last week. Quiet as can be. No clicking, humming or vibrations whatsoever. Reservoir is clean, no signs of plasticizer.......no debris of any kind so far. Looking good for now.

Thanks Bryan.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

When I add a GPU block to my loop, and refill the system with distilled water, will silver coil be enough to make sure i dont get any life in there?
Im not really interested in ordering any special coolant since i have some distilled water and a silver coil somewhere ready to go.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> When I add a GPU block to my loop, and refill the system with distilled water, will silver coil be enough to make sure i dont get any life in there?
> Im not really interested in ordering any special coolant since i have some distilled water and a silver coil somewhere ready to go.


So long as you're not using any mixed metals in your loop, that should be fine. I basically use the same thing in my loop in my home rig.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

All i have is the swiftech H220 and EK FC TITAN SE Acetal thats about it!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> All i have is the swiftech H220 and EK FC TITAN SE Acetal thats about it!


Then you should be fine with just using distilled water and a silver kill coil.


----------



## delpy8

Hi h320 been tested outside the case with no unusual noise except the slight buzz which is expected.
Has anyone fitted the h320 into a corsair 900d?
If so where have you located it? At the moment I'm thinking of just fitting of the top of case


----------



## Mega Man

fyi silver and nickle have been known to interact just so you know


----------



## Playerxl

Can anybody tell me how I can fit the Swiftech H320 into my Antec Sonata III case?

I'm about to buy the H320 with waterblocks and I'm very curious how I can fit this into my case ...

Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## M3TAl

Probably would have to seriously mod the front (removing the HDD cages and 5.25" bays) or mount the rad externally which would require draining the loop so the tubing can be ran back through to the inside of the case (need to cut holes for tubing also).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi silver and nickle have been known to interact just so you know


I've heard that, but I have been running distilled and a silver kill coil for almost 2 years now. I've broken down the system a couple of times during that period and have found no signs of corrosion at all. I think it depends on the quality of the nickle plating.


----------



## Mega Man

yep i would tend to agree.... just as a funny thought.... ever wonder why all all koolance products have this disclaimer?

Quote:


> Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, coolant additives, or corrosion. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. _*Do not use silver with nickel in the same system[/S]*_.


i own 1 koolance product and that is a rad mount ( very very strong and solid ) however i wont put a koolance product in my loop do to this disclaimer...

"unless you use our stuff we wont warranty it, even if it does no damage..... " i mean... really
water is a third party coolant ....

i think they changed it though it used to say they wont warranty if you use silver


----------



## Dudewitbow

to bring back martins list metallurgy index:



its generally fine to use nickel because of the fact that its index is really close to copper, compared to say other AIO's using aluminum where that index is basically double. since silver's index is lower(but not aluminum gap difference) it's effect is probably debatable, especially with the amount of silver actually going into the loop. That would probably be in the discretion of each manufacturer to decide if allowing silver + their products are still under warranty or not.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep i would tend to agree.... just as a funny thought.... ever wonder why all all koolance products have this disclaimer?
> i own 1 koolance product and that is a rad mount ( very very strong and solid ) however i wont put a koolance product in my loop do to this disclaimer...
> 
> "unless you use our stuff we wont warranty it, even if it does no damage..... " i mean... really
> water is a third party coolant ....
> 
> i think they changed it though it used to say they wont warranty if you use silver


I know you were refering to the EK Titan block, but I'll take this moment to plug in the fact that I love that the Swiftech Komodo blocks are Chrome plated instead of nickel, so we don't have this issue







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I know you were refering to the EK Titan block, but I'll take this moment to plug in the fact that I love that the Swiftech Komodo blocks are Chrome plated instead of nickel, so we don't have this issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


believe it or not i really was not.

99% of ek products are good, they did have a bad run for a short time. i still choose to not do it as much as i can. with my 990fxa-ud7 i have no choice because unlike with the CVFz ek never made a copper only variant...... which makes me sad. ( not for the fact it is ek, i just try to avoid it )

i have heard of bitspower having issues with it as well.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Probably would have to seriously mod the front (removing the HDD cages and 5.25" bays) or mount the rad externally which would require draining the loop so the tubing can be ran back through to the inside of the case (need to cut holes for tubing also).


Thanks for your post! What do you mean with "draining the loop" (cutting holes in my case is not that big of an issue) ?

Is there a possible way to mount the rad at the bottom of my case? (maybe a stupid question)


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> What do you mean with "draining the loop" (cutting holes in my case is not that big of an issue) ?


To route the tubes through smallish holes in the case for an external rad, you'd have to detach the tubes from the rad or pump to put them through the holes. Which means the water will come out of the tubes/loop, ie you will have to 'drain the loop' then refill it once everything is reattached. If you're going to cut a big hole that the pump can fit through to reach the CPU, then I guess you wouldn't have to.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> To route the tubes through the holes in the case for an external rad, you're going to have to detach the tubes from the rad or pump to put them through the holes in the case. Which means the water will come out of the tubes/loop, ie you will have to 'drain the loop' then refill it once everything is reattached.


Aha! I see what you mean! but I actually have to detach the tubes because of my extra cool blocks for my GPU







so that wouldn't any issue.. but after all I now think about it.. I have to setup the watercooling system out of my case and fill it up/remove air.. than install it into my case.. so in that point of view you''re right and I have to drain the rad...







but there is no possible way to attach the rad to the bottom of my case (inside of course).??


----------



## M3TAl

That case just doesn't seem water cooling friendly at all







. Your options are external rad (either on some kind of stand or on the top of the case which will require some drilling of the case as well) or get a more water cooling friendly case.

Seems like if you mounted the rad on the bottom it would be right up against the bottom of the motherboard.


----------



## Little Big Alex

Hey, I was thinking of getting the H320. Is there any known issues of them leaking or anything like that?


----------



## Mega Man

not often you have to realize the rma rate on h220/320 is 3%
seems like more in this thread as ppl come here for help /rma


----------



## bukojuice

do you think I should have H220 RMAed? been using it for about 2 weeks now, then suddenly i have this Grinding Noise , I tried to back read and noticed that some of the owner are having the same problem, tried to follow some tips on how to remove the air/bubble but getting the same issue. having my h220 rma'ed would take time and im afraid to have the same problem in the future..any tips or advce?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> do you think I should have H220 RMAed? been using it for about 2 weeks now, then suddenly i have this Grinding Noise , I tried to back read and noticed that some of the owner are having the same problem, tried to follow some tips on how to remove the air/bubble but getting the same issue. having my h220 rma'ed would take time and im afraid to have the same problem in the future..any tips or advce?


Have you tried the instructions in the OP yet? If not, then give them a go and let me know if they resolve your issue.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That case just doesn't seem water cooling friendly at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Your options are external rad (either on some kind of stand or on the top of the case which will require some drilling of the case as well) or get a more water cooling friendly case.
> 
> Seems like if you mounted the rad on the bottom it would be right up against the bottom of the motherboard.


Ok ok... will the swiftech H320 fit into this case ?

after checking the measurements it theoratically will fit (case is 40cm long, H320 38,9 cm long).. But I'm really not sure


----------



## TeeBlack

i guess im one of the lucky ones. had my h220 for a few months with no problems at all so far.


----------



## Scorpion49

Is it possible to buy the pump unit by itself? Looking for a decently powerful AIO pump for a project, I could cut up my H100i but the pump is just pathetic on that one. The CM eisberg pump can be bought by itself but is too tall for what I need by about 5mm.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Is it possible to buy the pump unit by itself? Looking for a decently powerful AIO pump for a project, I could cut up my H100i but the pump is just pathetic on that one. The CM eisberg pump can be bought by itself but is too tall for what I need by about 5mm.


There probably are many people(myself included) who would love to have just the pump, but there were no news on it ever happening, at least as of what has happened so far.


----------



## Mega Man

at some point it may but not now. an apogee drive II may fit the bill though


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> at some point it may but not now. an apogee drive II may fit the bill though


Yeah, unfortunately running it off of a PicoPSU means I have a very limited power budget. 6.4W max and 3-4W for normal operation for the H220 pump is doable, 16-18W for a full DDC is not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> There probably are many people(myself included) who would love to have just the pump, but there were no news on it ever happening, at least as of what has happened so far.


Darn, I can't even get the kit and take it apart anyway, I had forgotten about that. Guess the H100i is getting chopped up after all.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> Ok ok... will the swiftech H320 fit into this case ?
> 
> after checking the measurements it theoratically will fit (case is 40cm long, H320 38,9 cm long).. But I'm really not sure


It will probably fit at the top, but you'll still have to do some modding because that case only has 2 120mm fan mounts at the top of it. You need to find something like the Cooler Master HAF X or HAF 932. The full tower NZXT and Corsair cases are good too. If it has room at the top for 3 120mm fan mounts then it will likely be able to fit the H320.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, unfortunately running it off of a PicoPSU means I have a very limited power budget. 6.4W max and 3-4W for normal operation for the H220 pump is doable, 16-18W for a full DDC is not.
> Darn, I can't even get the kit and take it apart anyway, I had forgotten about that. Guess the H100i is getting chopped up after all.


An APD2 at 2K RPM consumes ~ less than 6w. 18w is at 4500 RPM. If you run it under 3000 rpm, it's power usage is similar to the H220.


----------



## AndehPandeh

Ok so I have been studying this thread for a little while now, and it's now time to put the feelers out on what is the best way to manage my current situation.

I've had the H220 for a few months now. Started off fantastic, I managed to squeeze a lot more out of my cpu... the fans and pump (were) quiet as a mouse. Unfortunately I have now been hit with the dreaded noisy pump issue. I have completely removed the cooler, drained and refilled as per the instructional videos. Seated everything in my case for the second time around, and although it remained quiet for a couple of days. It's now back to square one.

Obviously its quite the pain in the bum having to constantly half rebuild a system. So I want to RMA the product. However, from what I can gather is this thread. There is a newer revision of the h220 with a different impeller. Is this the case? If so has it resolved the pump issues the first gen H220 has? Any feedback is appreciated, but I am more interested in the swiftech reps and what their advice would be. I had sent an email to swiftech and unfortunately did not receive a response. I am hoping that this public forum may gain me more after sales support.

I reside in Australia and have purchased the cooler through pccasegear.com.au. They have fantastic after sales support, however I would like some official advice from someone at swiftech so I can forward that information to pccasegear. If I can backup my need for the newer revision h220 during the RMA with an official response from a swiftech rep, it will make the whole rma process a lot easier. I really don't want to risk picking up an identical cooler only to come across the same problem again.

Cheers
Andy


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndehPandeh*
> 
> Ok so I have been studying this thread for a little while now, and it's now time to put the feelers out on what is the best way to manage my current situation.
> 
> I've had the H220 for a few months now. Started off fantastic, I managed to squeeze a lot more out of my cpu... the fans and pump (were) quiet as a mouse. Unfortunately I have now been hit with the dreaded noisy pump issue. I have completely removed the cooler, drained and refilled as per the instructional videos. Seated everything in my case for the second time around, and although it remained quiet for a couple of days. It's now back to square one.
> 
> Obviously its quite the pain in the bum having to constantly half rebuild a system. So I want to RMA the product. However, from what I can gather is this thread. There is a newer revision of the h220 with a different impeller. Is this the case? If so has it resolved the pump issues the first gen H220 has? Any feedback is appreciated, but I am more interested in the swiftech reps and what their advice would be. I had sent an email to swiftech and unfortunately did not receive a response. I am hoping that this public forum may gain me more after sales support.
> 
> I reside in Australia and have purchased the cooler through pccasegear.com.au. They have fantastic after sales support, however I would like some official advice from someone at swiftech so I can forward that information to pccasegear. If I can backup my need for the newer revision h220 during the RMA with an official response from a swiftech rep, it will make the whole rma process a lot easier. I really don't want to risk picking up an identical cooler only to come across the same problem again.
> 
> Cheers
> Andy


the pump revision hasn't had a100% perfection of problems, BUT it sharply decreased the number of RMA requests since its existence.


----------



## AndehPandeh

I'm imagining that the two different revisions have two different product codes? Also, in terms of what is returned to the supplier and eventually to swiftech. Is the lack of the backplate being returned going to cause any problems? If I can have a quick turn over in my current h220 to a new one, and not have to unbuild completely... is this something that swiftech would be happy with. Pulling out the mobo etc..... really not something I was hoping to have to do with this well recommended AIO water cooler.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> An APD2 at 2K RPM consumes ~ less than 6w. 18w is at 4500 RPM. If you run it under 3000 rpm, it's power usage is similar to the H220.


It is also physically too big. I have one already. The H220 pump is ~56mm (less if you take off the honeycomb cover) while the Drive II is 61.5mm. May not seem like much but I'm working the a case the size of most ITX motherboard boxes. I thought about just getting rid of the heatsink but that would probably do more harm than good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndehPandeh*
> 
> I'm imagining that the two different revisions have two different product codes? Also, in terms of what is returned to the supplier and eventually to swiftech. Is the lack of the backplate being returned going to cause any problems? If I can have a quick turn over in my current h220 to a new one, and not have to unbuild completely... is this something that swiftech would be happy with. Pulling out the mobo etc..... really not something I was hoping to have to do with this well recommended AIO water cooler.


Sending you a PM so that I can help you resolve your issue. Be aware that we don't handle RMA support and warranty support directly when the customer purchased our product outside North America. Being that this is the case you'll have to go through PC Case Gear for RMA and warranty support.


----------



## abgersaurus

I recently got my H220 back from an RMA because my pump died while i was gaming, they tested it for 6 days straight but could not find any faults with it and when I got it back there was a lot of air bubbles which I finally got rid of, but now it just keeps making an even more annoying noise which i can't get rid of except if I turn down the pump to it's minimum RPM.

Can anyone help me? here a link with the noise it makes 



 (it's my own video) thumb.gif


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> I recently got my H220 back from an RMA because my pump died while i was gaming, they tested it for 6 days straight but could not find any faults with it and when I got it back there was a lot of air bubbles which I finally got rid of, but now it just keeps making an even more annoying noise which i can't get rid of except if I turn down the pump to it's minimum RPM.
> 
> Can anyone help me? here a link with the noise it makes
> 
> 
> 
> (it's my own video) thumb.gif


Did you RMA this through your distributor and where are you located? Please send me a PM so that I can help you with this.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> It is also physically too big. I have one already. The H220 pump is ~56mm (less if you take off the honeycomb cover) while the Drive II is 61.5mm. May not seem like much but I'm working the a case the size of most ITX motherboard boxes. I thought about just getting rid of the heatsink but that would probably do more harm than good.


If running under 3K rpm you don't rrally need the heatsink, though the fittings will stand taller than the heatsink.


----------



## Over72

what kind of tubing I need if I want to put a transparent one?

thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Over72*
> 
> what kind of tubing I need if I want to put a transparent one?
> 
> thanks!


You need 3/8 by 5/8 tubing.


----------



## Over72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You need 3/8 by 5/8 tubing.


Thanks!!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Is there a difference between the H220 and H320 pump (power/revisions/etc)? I'm planning on buying one and i need more information about the products. Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Is there a difference between the H220 and H320 pump (power/revisions/etc)? I'm planning on buying one and i need more information about the products. Thanks.


pumps are the same. Some earlier H220s had the original design impeller, but all of the H220s built in the last few months and all H320s have the new revision impeller.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> pumps are the same. Some earlier H220s had the original design impeller, but all of the H220s built in the last few months and all H320s have the new revision impeller.


I can confirm that this is correct. +1 Phelan, thanks for your input.


----------



## selk22

Just received my new h220 from the Swiftech RMA and I am happy to say its running extremely quite and actually 1-2c better temps then my last one







Not sure if this is my application of TIM this time or what but I am very pleased! FINALLY a quite system! Big thanks to the guys at Swiftech for excellent support and communication.

I sure do love the winter time.. 3930k at 4.6 1.32v the other day saw 22c at idle and under load I max out at 70c usually around 65c


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm that this is correct. +1 Phelan, thanks for your input.


Any time







. BTW I'm sending a PM your way in a few.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Just received my new h220 from the Swiftech RMA and I am happy to say its running extremely quite and actually 1-2c better temps then my last one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is my application of TIM this time or what but I am very pleased! FINALLY a quite system! Big thanks to the guys at Swiftech for excellent support and communication.
> 
> I sure do love the winter time.. 3930k at 4.6 1.32v the other day saw 22c at idle and under load I max out at 70c usually around 65c


Glad to hear it. I love the winter time too. I'm finally back to folding again. I don't run it 24/7, but I do like to fold on the weekends. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.


----------



## crabula

Testing my new H320 out of the case right now off an old PSU (Antec EarthWatts 500W) using a paperclip.

Quiet as a mouse compared to the noise coming out of my old PC. Surely this can't be top speed though? It's powered via SATA to the splitter. If this is top speed for both the pump and fans, colour me impressed.









Edit: Oh also in the manual it says only use the TIM provided. I was going to use some IC Diamond, what would you guys do?


----------



## Phelan

IC Diamond is fine, and one of my favs, but the Swiftech TIM is really good too, and a lot easier to apply. Either way you're good IMO.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Swiftech TIM is really good too, and a lot easier to apply.


In the manual it shows an application example where it uses what looks like a *lot* of TIM in a verticle line... should I do that or just use the normal pea size amount in the middle?


----------



## drew666

Would it be easier to prime or let bubbles out if you add a reservoir to the loop? Also is there a way to find if the h220 or h320 is revision 2 (or with the new impeller)?


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew666*
> 
> Also is there a way to find if the h220 or h320 is revision 2 (or with the new impeller)?


Apparently all H320s have the new impeller, and any H220s sent out in the past few months - I'm not sure how to tell the difference between the H220 revisions though.


----------



## dbmsts

Does anyone know where in Brussels can I find the coolant for the h220. My search via the internet revealed that the stores sell the Hyderx pm and not the blue hyderx pm-2 coolant. It doesn't seem to be available anywhere.


----------



## crabula

When installing H320 up the top of a case, which screws do you use... the short thick black ones look like they would damage the holes in the fans, while the long screws would require some effort to hold everything in place... I'm a noob.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbmsts*
> 
> Does anyone know where in Brussels can I find the coolant for the h220. My search via the internet revealed that the stores sell the Hyderx pm and not the blue hyderx pm-2 coolant. It doesn't seem to be available anywhere.


Are you just topping it off? If so just top it off with distilled. If you are expanding it and refilling it, you can use the HydrX PM coolant as well. The only difference is that PM 2 is non-toxic if ingested, and of course the color. If you go with PM, make sure to pay attention to whether or not you got the concentrated version or the pre-mixed. Concentrated is to be mixed with distilled water (not just purified drinking water, make sure it says distilled).

I ran HydrX PM in my H220 no problem.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> In the manual it shows an application example where it uses what looks like a *lot* of TIM in a verticle line... should I do that or just use the normal pea size amount in the middle?


I use the vertical line method myself. I seem to get bettwr coverage that way. Just make sure to keep it thin.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> IC Diamond is fine, and one of my favs, but the Swiftech TIM is really good too, and a lot easier to apply. Either way you're good IMO.


I would agree.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew666*
> 
> Would it be easier to prime or let bubbles out if you add a reservoir to the loop? Also is there a way to find if the h220 or h320 is revision 2 (or with the new impeller)?


It will make it easier to prime and bleed with an additional reservoir added to the loop. All kits that are currently on the market should have the latest pump revisions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> When installing H320 up the top of a case, which screws do you use... the short thick black ones look like they would damage the holes in the fans, while the long screws would require some effort to hold everything in place... I'm a noob.


If you're mounting this in the stock configuration then you'll use the small black screws. These are meant for fans and they will dig into the plastic to secure them properly. This is normal for these types of screws and fans.


----------



## Imprezzion

Hmm my H320 pump is getting absurdly loud now and I hear water slushing inside when pumpspeed is high.

What does this mean? She needs a refill?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Hmm my H320 pump is getting absurdly loud now and I hear water slushing inside when pumpspeed is high.
> 
> What does this mean? She needs a refill?


You should just need to top it off with a little distilled water. I would also try letting the pump run with the fill-port cap on your reservoir removed. This will help allow any air in the pump to escape through the open reservoir. Let me know if that helps to quiet down your kit.


----------



## Imprezzion

I'll remove the rad from my case then.

It's top-mounted with the hoses pointing to the back so it's basically upside down now and the fillport on the rad is on the bottom haha.


----------



## drew666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would agree.
> It will make it easier to prime and bleed with an additional reservoir added to the loop. All kits that are currently on the market should have the latest pump revisions.


Nice.. Because i read a lot of issues about pump noise after maybe a couple of months use so better bleed or add some proper liquid to soothe things out.. Thanks man


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I'll remove the rad from my case then.
> 
> It's top-mounted with the hoses pointing to the back so *it's basically upside down now and the fillport on the rad is on the bottom* haha.


That's also part of your problem. If you must mount it this way maybe consider adding a small res. to act as an air trap.


----------



## Imprezzion

I'll see if there's enough room to spin it around. I think it can fit now. My old board had too big of a VRM heatsink for the block to fit like it should (swiftech logo upright) and 90 degree rotated would run into hose length issues. However, my new board has plenty of room around the socket being 2011 in stead of 1155 and I think i can get away with it now









My mount isn't really good this time anyway so i'll get crackin once she finishes her 1 hour LinX break-in run on 4.875Ghz


----------



## selk22

Well after removing the sp120's and using just the 2 helix fans the temp difference is next to nothing and the noise level is much lower!

Do the Helix fans also make a good quite casefan? or would you guy suggest something else? My corsair standard case fans are just a bit loud


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well after removing the sp120's and using just the 2 helix fans the temp difference is next to nothing and the noise level is much lower!
> 
> Do the Helix fans also make a good quite casefan? or would you guy suggest something else? My corsair standard case fans are just a bit loud


I use them as case fans and they move quite a bit of air.


----------



## Imprezzion

Well Bram, I removed the unit from my case and ran it for a while with a hotwired PSU and fillcap off. It had quite some air in it after a good shake of the pump unit haha.

Only problem is I can't fill it up since I have no distilled water or coolant here lol. Oh well, I went all stupid and just put it back together and it got a lot more quiet. Pump is still audible at full speed but a lot less then before.

Now there's just the slight ''water flowing'' noise coming from the rad as it isn't topped up all the way lol but I have no other cooling so imma have to use it for the time being till I get some coolant for it.

Also flipped it around fillport up and with the hoses in the drivebays in stead of on the backside. Looks better and fits better.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well Bram, I removed the unit from my case and ran it for a while with a hotwired PSU and fillcap off. It had quite some air in it after a good shake of the pump unit haha.
> 
> Only problem is I can't fill it up since I have no distilled water or coolant here lol. Oh well, I went all stupid and just put it back together and it got a lot more quiet. Pump is still audible at full speed but a lot less then before.
> 
> Now there's just the slight ''water flowing'' noise coming from the rad as it isn't topped up all the way lol but I have no other cooling so imma have to use it for the time being till I get some coolant for it.
> 
> Also flipped it around fillport up and with the hoses in the drivebays in stead of on the backside. Looks better and fits better.


Glad to hear it. Please let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Pump is still audible at full speed but a lot less then before.


Was it always audible at full speed or only since you had air bubbles? I wonder why it's still audible when you got the bubbles out... I hope these pumps don't just get more audible over time.


----------



## Imprezzion

Well it used to be perfectly quiet, so quiet I always ran it at full speed.

Now I got it PWM controlled along with the fans all via the PWM splitter wired up to CPU_FAN header.

It is quiet up to about 60% PWM after that you start to hear a slight rattling sound and at full speed the rattling sound becomes quite audible.

Look, I don't know the first thing of watercooling which is why I got a H320 in the first place, but luckily I got a buddy who does know everything about it and i'll just have him look at it and refill it








I wanna swap the hoses with clear ones anyway and I want a tube res added to it (more or less for looks but k).
Might even add a thick 120MM rad to it as well so it can cool my GTX780 once I get a block for that.


----------



## sikkly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well Bram, I removed the unit from my case and ran it for a while with a hotwired PSU and fillcap off. It had quite some air in it after a good shake of the pump unit haha.
> 
> Only problem is I can't fill it up since I have no distilled water or coolant here lol. Oh well, I went all stupid and just put it back together and it got a lot more quiet. Pump is still audible at full speed but a lot less then before.
> 
> Now there's just the slight ''water flowing'' noise coming from the rad as it isn't topped up all the way lol but I have no other cooling so imma have to use it for the time being till I get some coolant for it.
> 
> Also flipped it around fillport up and with the hoses in the drivebays in stead of on the backside. Looks better and fits better.


You can't get distilled water at super markets where you are at? I thought you could get it anywhere in NA/EU









At least you got the bubbles out. Means whenever you get coolant you just have to take the fill cap off and put a little fluid in.


----------



## Imprezzion

Oh we probably have but it was rather late yesterday evening and supermarkets are only open to 20:00-21:00 here. Smaller village eh


----------



## crabula

I'm about to start putting my build together in Switch 810, just wondering which fan setup would be best for the top mounted H320 - intake, pushing air in through the rad, or exhaust, pulling air out through the rad.

Position of other fans:
Front: 2x140 intake
Rear: 1x140 exhaust
???: 1x140 (either internal on the top drive cage, helping air from the front travel toward the rear exhaust, or bottom intake...

Intake on the H320 would mean only one exhaust fan, not sure how good overall flow would be.
Exhaust would mean using air from inside the case to cool the rad, might not be as effective, and negative air pressure (2 in 4 out), which I hear is bad for dust.

... thinking about it, I buy two more fans so I can have 2x140 bottom intake, so I have 4 intake and 4 exhaust including the H320.


----------



## Imprezzion

I myself prefer top intake.

I use top intake, rear 140mm exaust, front 5'25" bay 140mm exaust, bottom intake, lower front intake in my HAF932 Adv.

Top intake has always given me better temps on the CPU and hardly even affects the other temps in the system. Also, it being intake, it's blowing air over my VRM heatsink cooling it about 10c better compared to rad outtake.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I myself prefer top intake.


Thanks. Would still be fine even with only the rear fan exhausting air?

I'm also trying to figure out if I should mount the block/pump to the CPU with the mobo in or out of the case... I'm thinking mobo+rad installed in the case with the case on its back would be easiest to then mount the block, so long as the backplate stays in place. If I do it with the mobo outside the case, managing the rad+tubes might be difficult when trying to install the mobo.

Any help much appreciated.


----------



## irfanrafeeq88

Hello @BramSLI1

I got my Swiftech H320 today but the product was damaged. I am from India and the distributor for Swiftech Products in India is Tirupathi Enterprises (Overclockers Zone). This is the link from where I purchased the cooler: http://www.flipkart.com/swiftech-h320-cooler/p/itmdn4q3uhpckpsf?pid=COLDN4Q2DXDUSRB2

I reported this to the retailer and they rejected my concern citing that the cooler was new and requested me to send the pics. I have sent them the pics and still no response from them about the replacement nor the refund.

The packaging was good but once I opened the packaging, I see the cooler having a large dent near the reservoir. Even the paint was ripped off. Below is what I noticed:

1. The Reservoir has a large dent. What will I do if I have to RMA in the future if something goes wrong. What if you guys reject citing physical damage. ??????
2. The paint is ripped off on the reservoir. They how they tell blindly that the cooler was new
3. Even the thermal paste was not packed properly as the cap of the thermal paste was beneath the foam padding
4. I noticed only 3 screws & 3 springs for the LGA 2011 kit included. Where's the fourth one? I dont remember having any socket with 3 screw mountings????
5. Even the foam padding inside the box is damaged. I dont think they check the product before dispatching it?
6. The fins at the back of the radiator are heavily damaged. Some of the fins are broken as well.

Why will a customer lie about the product if this was what he wanted. This is an expensive product and not some cheap ****. I expected a better response but they send me a template.

Please assist.

IMG_19700102_055006.jpg 413k .jpg file


IMG_19700102_054900.jpg 524k .jpg file


IMG_19700102_055031.jpg 304k .jpg file


----------



## Playerxl

Did you check if this product was used before you opened it (packaging)? It seems like an used product..

You really have to do some trouble to damage the rad like this.. So someone was really taking effort for this..


----------



## irfanrafeeq88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> Did you check if this product was used before you opened it (packaging)? It seems like an used product..
> 
> You really have to do some trouble to damage the rad like this.. So someone was really taking effort for this..


It was not used. I could see this from the block itself but the box was not sealed as well.


----------



## fifty

wow all those troubles with swiftech products...
i have my apogee drive 2 couple week old...suddenly the pump (mcp 35x) stop spinning, i have to reboot, and sometime it doesnt even start, i have to shut down the pc and start it 5, 10 times (when it doesnt start i hear some rattle out of it, probably going to die in a day?) to have the pump on, and there is no air and the loop is very well built with top notch components....
really, now i don't know if i have to send it back to amazon france (very f4k expensive) or just get another pump of another brand (and loose warranty) i start to not trust this company anymore..
im leaning being sad now , spent over 400 euros to put liquid all over cpu/gpu and i have to stop everything...ahhh


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> wow all those troubles with swiftech products...
> i have my apogee drive 2 couple week old...suddenly the pump (mcp 35x) stop spinning, i have to reboot, and sometime it doesnt even start, i have to shut down the pc and start it 5, 10 times (when it doesnt start i hear some rattle out of it, probably going to die in a day?) to have the pump on, and there is no air and the loop is very well built with top notch components....
> really, now i don't know if i have to send it back to amazon france (very f4k expensive) or just get another pump of another brand (and loose warranty) i start to not trust this company anymore..
> im leaning being sad now , spent over 400 euros to put liquid all over cpu/gpu and i have to stop everything...ahhh


That's really bad news! I've ordered the H320 so I hope everything will be fine.. I'll certainly keep y'all posted!


----------



## crabula

Putting pc together now and I had to install the rad with the tubes end at the back of the case. Because of this the tubes are too long to install the pump normally but upside down would work. Can I install the pump upside down with the swiftech logo on the upper left and be fine? Any difference doing it this way?

Cheers. (Sent from phone







)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfanrafeeq88*
> 
> Hello @BramSLI1
> 
> I got my Swiftech H320 today but the product was damaged. I am from India and the distributor for Swiftech Products in India is Tirupathi Enterprises (Overclockers Zone). This is the link from where I purchased the cooler: http://www.flipkart.com/swiftech-h320-cooler/p/itmdn4q3uhpckpsf?pid=COLDN4Q2DXDUSRB2
> 
> I reported this to the retailer and they rejected my concern citing that the cooler was new and requested me to send the pics. I have sent them the pics and still no response from them about the replacement nor the refund.
> 
> The packaging was good but once I opened the packaging, I see the cooler having a large dent near the reservoir. Even the paint was ripped off. Below is what I noticed:
> 
> 1. The Reservoir has a large dent. What will I do if I have to RMA in the future if something goes wrong. What if you guys reject citing physical damage. ??????
> 2. The paint is ripped off on the reservoir. They how they tell blindly that the cooler was new
> 3. Even the thermal paste was not packed properly as the cap of the thermal paste was beneath the foam padding
> 4. I noticed only 3 screws & 3 springs for the LGA 2011 kit included. Where's the fourth one? I dont remember having any socket with 3 screw mountings????
> 5. Even the foam padding inside the box is damaged. I dont think they check the product before dispatching it?
> 6. The fins at the back of the radiator are heavily damaged. Some of the fins are broken as well.
> 
> Why will a customer lie about the product if this was what he wanted. This is an expensive product and not some cheap ****. I expected a better response but they send me a template.
> 
> Please assist.
> 
> IMG_19700102_055006.jpg 413k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_19700102_054900.jpg 524k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_19700102_055031.jpg 304k .jpg file


I'm sorry to hear about this. I have a contact for this reseller and I'll contact them directly for you. Please email me at [email protected] so that I can assist you further with this situation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> wow all those troubles with swiftech products...
> i have my apogee drive 2 couple week old...suddenly the pump (mcp 35x) stop spinning, i have to reboot, and sometime it doesnt even start, i have to shut down the pc and start it 5, 10 times (when it doesnt start i hear some rattle out of it, probably going to die in a day?) to have the pump on, and there is no air and the loop is very well built with top notch components....
> really, now i don't know if i have to send it back to amazon france (very f4k expensive) or just get another pump of another brand (and loose warranty) i start to not trust this company anymore..
> im leaning being sad now , spent over 400 euros to put liquid all over cpu/gpu and i have to stop everything...ahhh


The MCP35X is one of the most reliable pumps on the market. Even so, it still does fail from time to time. If you need any help with the RMA process please contact me through the email listed above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Putting pc together now and I had to install the rad with the tubes end at the back of the case. Because of this the tubes are too long to install the pump normally but upside down would work. Can I install the pump upside down with the swiftech logo on the upper left and be fine? Any difference doing it this way?
> 
> Cheers. (Sent from phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The orientation of the pump has no impact on performance so you should be fine with mounting it upside down.


----------



## irfanrafeeq88

Bryan,

I have sent you 2 emails with the screenshots as well as the products list that I require to build a custom loop. Please review the emails and let me know. I will wait for your response.

Thanks a lot


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irfanrafeeq88*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> I have sent you 2 emails with the screenshots as well as the products list that I require to build a custom loop. Please review the emails and let me know. I will wait for your response.
> 
> Thanks a lot


Please let me know as soon as you hear from the reseller and let me know if I can be of any further assistance.


----------



## Imprezzion

I'll uploae a vid of my unit as I can't seem to be able to get rid of the pumpnoise no matter how I bleed air lol. Got my friend to help me out as he is into WC and i'm not








As it's a early adopted H320 (pre-ordered and bought it the very day the first shipment arrived in Holland) i wonder if it has the bad pump even though people also said all H320s came with the newer one.

I need to edit the length a bit but k i'll have it up soon.

EDIT:

Youtube link. Can't embed from my phone lol.
It's currently running for a while with the rad elevated and no fillcap.

Noise is most obvious in the beginning and the last 10 secs. Pump is hooked up via the PWM board straight to SATA (100% speed I assume) on a jumpstarted PSU.


----------



## MrStick89

So I just got my 2nd H220 installed and I spent a good while trying to work the air bubbles out, my pump is making an annoying ticking sound. Attempted the same methods I did on my old cooler; tilting it, tapping the hoses, pinching near the fittings, tapping the pump, rocking the case back and fourth side to side. I eventually gave up in hopes of just running it for a few hours might help. Whats weird is when I tilt the case to the left(main window side) the ticking stops, if I tilt it to the right it gets even louder. Any ideas?


----------



## Imprezzion

Reminds me of what happens when I shake my pump unit to clear air (read post above







).

It also changes in loudness when shaking it. I'm now forcing it to run on very low speeds with the BIOS PWm and there's like a 1-3c difference in temps max and it's reasonably quiet but it's running at max 40% PWM to keep it quiet. Even then there's a light ticking as can be heard in the video (but much more quiet).

I hope it doesn't have to do with the impeller or any bearings or whatever but I fear in my case (hopefully not yours as well!) it's probably something like ti cause there's no way in hell there's still air in my loop after all i've done to get it out hahah.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I'll uploae a vid of my unit as I can't seem to be able to get rid of the pumpnoise no matter how I bleed air lol. Got my friend to help me out as he is into WC and i'm not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it's a early adopted H320 (pre-ordered and bought it the very day the first shipment arrived in Holland) i wonder if it has the bad pump even though people also said all H320s came with the newer one.
> 
> I need to edit the length a bit but k i'll have it up soon.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Youtube link. Can't embed from my phone lol.
> It's currently running for a while with the rad elevated and no fillcap.
> 
> Noise is most obvious in the beginning and the last 10 secs. Pump is hooked up via the PWM board straight to SATA (100% speed I assume) on a jumpstarted PSU.


Without the fans running it's really hard to tell if the noise that you're hearing is the normal sound that this pump produces. The fans will normally overcome the sound of the pump and you'll barely be able to hear it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> So I just got my 2nd H220 installed and I spent a good while trying to work the air bubbles out, my pump is making an annoying ticking sound. Attempted the same methods I did on my old cooler; tilting it, tapping the hoses, pinching near the fittings, tapping the pump, rocking the case back and fourth side to side. I eventually gave up in hopes of just running it for a few hours might help. Whats weird is when I tilt the case to the left(main window side) the ticking stops, if I tilt it to the right it gets even louder. Any ideas?


If you can do so, I would let it run with the fill-port cap removed for a few hours or so and see if it quiets down. Once it does you should be able to top it off and this will keep it from getting loud again. PM me if this doesn't resolve your issue.


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Without the fans running it's really hard to tell if the noise that you're hearing is the normal sound that this pump produces. The fans will normally overcome the sound of the pump and you'll barely be able to hear it.


And there's the issue. Those are 6 2000RPM Noiseblockers and the pump well and truly overpowers them, even with all 6 on full blast.

Don't get me wrong, the noise itself doesn't bother me all that much, but is it ''safe'' to run the loop like this if the sound is actually too much and what would cause it in the event that this isn't normal sound.

Also, the pump used to be much much much more quiet and it got this loud over time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> And there's the issue. Those are 6 2000RPM Noiseblockers and the pump well and truly overpowers them, even with all 6 on full blast.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the noise itself doesn't bother me all that much, but is it ''safe'' to run the loop like this if the sound is actually too much and what would cause it in the event that this isn't normal sound.
> 
> Also, the pump used to be much much much more quiet and it got this loud over time.


To be honest with you I"m not familiar with noiseblockers. If they run about as quiet as our Helix fans then I would say that your pump is making too much noise. Please send me a PM and I'll help you get this kit replaced.


----------



## Turt1e

After 3 months of being quiet at idle and somewhat loud at load, my H220 clicks at 0% PWM and sometimes goes to 3000 RPM for now reason at idle. The PWM splitter's molex connector gives me problems too since it gets 'unplugged' with a light bump to my case giving me a CPU fan error.


----------



## Carpe_Noctem

I haven't managed to read through all 700+ pages here but has anyone confirmed if the H220 or H320 will fit the Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 without modification? Considering trying to find one of these instead of a Corsair h100i.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carpe_Noctem*
> 
> I haven't managed to read through all 700+ pages here but has anyone confirmed if the H220 or H320 will fit the Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 without modification? Considering trying to find one of these instead of a Corsair h100i.


CPU Platform Compatibility
Intel® Socket LGA 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 and 2011 (will also fit upcoming 1150)
AMD® Socket AM2 (+), AM3 (+), FM1, FM2, 939

so yes!


----------



## Carpe_Noctem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> CPU Platform Compatibility
> Intel® Socket LGA 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 and 2011 (will also fit upcoming 1150)
> AMD® Socket AM2 (+), AM3 (+), FM1, FM2, 939
> 
> so yes!


I realize the socket is compatible, I am wondering about other clearance issues with that specific motherboard. I have seen posts about other motherboards needing things sanded in order to fit.


----------



## Mega Man

no... not sanded... he was supposed to cut the mounting bracket... and he did ...


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no... not sanded... he was supposed to cut the mounting bracket... and he did ...


Wait what?? cut the mounting bracket??


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Just got my unit lets hope it works as it should.


----------



## pe8we8

Hello.
I recently bought the Swiftech H220 and it is running on my pc now. It is plugged right through the PWM Splitter even the fan. But i have two doubts and hope anyone can help me.
what is a good rpm to run pump? at idle and load, i'd like to use fan expert 2 to it.
And my motherboard have CPU_opt, can i remove the fans from the PWM Splitter and plug them both in the CPU_opt? to allow me setting them at different RPM.
Thanks


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well after removing the sp120's and using just the 2 helix fans the temp difference is next to nothing and the noise level is much lower!
> 
> Do the Helix fans also make a good quite casefan? or would you guy suggest something else? My corsair standard case fans are just a bit loud


If you still need some case fans take a look at my sig, I am getting rid of some fans if you are interested PM me?


----------



## goojah

I purchased a Swiftech H320 from Oliospec's online shop in Akihabara yesterday and it arrived this morning. I now have it running outside the case to ensure it isn't leaking. So far so good and other than a very low hum and only the quietest of quiet sounds of tiny air bubbles (only heard with my ear against it) it is running very quiet. I plan to install it tonight or tomorrow morning on my Sabertooth 990FX with a 9370 FX CPU predominantly for high stress video editing. This should be a good test of this coolers performance at the extreme end of things.

Also BramSLI1 I also use Noiseblockers (best fans out there), and will soon let you know how their volume compares to the ones you use on the H320. Generally Noiseblockers are dead silent below 1600RPM, at 2000 they are audible but in a pleasant way.


----------



## patriotaki

Can i fit a swiftech h220 in a Fractal XL Black Pearl (discontinued product) ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patriotaki*
> 
> Can i fit a swiftech h220 in a Fractal XL Black Pearl (discontinued product) ?


You might be able to fit the radiator in the front of the case. The top of the case will be difficult because of the fan shroud at the back. If that shroud can be easily removed, then yes, you can fit this kit at the top of the case as well.


----------



## patriotaki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You might be able to fit the radiator in the front of the case. The top of the case will be difficult because of the fan shroud at the back. If that shroud can be easily removed, then yes, you can fit this kit at the top of the case as well.


hmm thanks for the info . But are you 100% sure it will fit? I mean will it be long enough so i can install it on the cpu?

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/discontinued-products/define-xl-black-pearl


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is the unit supposed to look like it fell down the stairs and someone scratched it ? Or is it like this with all the units ? Just took min out of the box and perhaps its just me being picky but it doesnt look new


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patriotaki*
> 
> hmm thanks for the info . But are you 100% sure it will fit? I mean will it be long enough so i can install it on the cpu?
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/discontinued-products/define-xl-black-pearl


If you are able to fit the radiator at the top there shouldn't be an issue. If you need to put the radiator at the front, then you may need to get some extra tubing and coolant to make the connections longer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is the unit supposed to look like it fell down the stairs and someone scratched it ? Or is it like this with all the units ? Just took min out of the box and perhaps its just me being picky but it doesnt look new


Can you PM me with some pics so I can see what you're talking about? If you purchased this as a new kit then it should look new.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks for the quick reply, but since then i turned it on tried it on high and low, disconnected it and already processed my return for it to amazon and a refund.
It was way to loud for my taste, im sure many will not even notice it but im sort of a nutcase for silence.


----------



## Topsu

Anyone has h220 in coolermaster haf x or know it will fit?


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> Anyone has h220 in coolermaster haf x or know it will fit?


tried google?

https://www.google.nl/search?q=haf+x+h220&oq=haf+x+h220&aqs=chrome..69i57.4540j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=122&espv=210&q=haf+x+swiftech+h220


----------



## bukojuice

Top installation.haf x


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> Anyone has h220 in coolermaster haf x or know it will fit?


I can confirm that the H220 or the H320 will fit in the top of the HAF X. There is plenty of space at the top of that case for radiators. I had a 60mm thick 3 x 120mm fan radiator at the top of that case without any issues.


----------



## Topsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> tried google?
> 
> https://www.google.nl/search?q=haf+x+h220&oq=haf+x+h220&aqs=chrome..69i57.4540j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=122&espv=210&q=haf+x+swiftech+h220


None in the results actually had h220 in haf x
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can confirm that the H220 or the H320 will fit in the top of the HAF X. There is plenty of space at the top of that case for radiators. I had a 60mm thick 3 x 120mm fan radiator at the top of that case without any issues.


Ok thanks, I got fooled becouse their site didn't tell if you can fit 140 or 120mm fans there, but theres a grid under the top fans where you can mount the rad?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> None in the results actually had h220 in haf x
> Ok thanks, I got fooled becouse their site didn't tell if you can fit 140 or 120mm fans there, but theres a grid under the top fans where you can mount the rad?


The fans and radiator will mount under the metal of the actual case. There is enough room for push/ pull in this configuration, but just barely.


----------



## zamx zex

hi guys this is my 400r with swiftech h220


----------



## neurotix

Anyone know where you can buy one of these?

Newegg and Amazon both say they're discontinued.

I'm from the US.


----------



## M3TAl

They're discontinued due to Asetek patent trolling Swiftech in the states.


----------



## Dudewitbow

In the US market, generally the only way is through NCIX


----------



## bukojuice

H220 - HAF X


----------



## crabula

Whew finally got my new rig setup with H320 in the top of a NZXT Switch 810, cooling a 4670K.

I didn't touch anything in the BIOS that would make the CPU auto-OC, but it idles at 4GHz and goes up to 4.2, and voltage up to 1.278 eeeeek.

Edit: weird the BIOS settings seemed to have all changed by themselves :O

Edit2: idling at 30C at stock and 1.060v ... ambient is around 20 or so

Edit3: Pics! As you can see I'm not hugely into looks













The only exhaust fan is the rear (edit - oh actually there's a crappy 700rpm 120mm I had lying around exhausting at the bottom too, reasoning that it will draw out air from the HDDs) haven't overclocked yet, so we'll see how it goes under load hopefully at around 4.5GHz. I think I put 3x the amount of TIM-MATE you're supposed to apply on as it came out of the tube too fast (that's what she said) so might do a reseat if I can be bothered. At idle it's running much quieter than my old system, and I've noticed the 5 tiny fans on my GPU (Gigabyte 680 SOC) make an annoying high pitched sound and are the loudest component - that will probably change at load.


----------



## Conditioned

Swiftech: Thumbs up for being here, seems brian is doing an excellent job.

So a few questions before I pull the trigger on this. My health is quite poor and I dont have a lot of money atm. Aso, since I have an Antec p183 I´m going to have to modify that case, which is a -lot- of energy for me to do in my current condition, so I wanna make sure this is the product for me.

1.) Can you confirm I dont need to use any software in windows to use this?

2.) How futureproof would this be? Will swiftech make new plates for new cpus, if possible?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Swiftech: Thumbs up for being here, seems brian is doing an excellent job.
> 
> So a few questions before I pull the trigger on this. My health is quite poor and I dont have a lot of money atm. Aso, since I have an Antec p183 I´m going to have to modify that case, which is a -lot- of energy for me to do in my current condition, so I wanna make sure this is the product for me.
> 
> 1.) Can you confirm I dont need to use any software in windows to use this?
> 
> 2.) How futureproof would this be? Will swiftech make new plates for new cpus, if possible?


You don't need any software, just a true PWM fan header (usually CPU_FAN and occasionally CPU_OPT as well) and knowledge to change the cpu fan BIOS settings if it's defaulted to voltage modulation.

The mounts fit all current AMD and Intel sockets, from 1150-2011, and are removeable as well. They can be interchanged with newer hardware that will be for sale should some upcoming socket not fit a previous mount, though all of Intel's latest sockets fit old mounting hardware (1150 fits 1155, 2011 fit 1366).


----------



## crabula

4670K @ 4.3GHz so far with H320. Hit 78C (20C ambient) after 1 hour of Prime95 @ 1.25 vcore.

4.4GHz crashes instantly. Was hoping this cooler would get me to 4.5 @ 80C load =[


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> 4670K @ 4.3GHz so far with H320. Hit 78C (20C ambient) after 1 hour of Prime95 @ 1.25 vcore.
> 
> 4.4GHz crashes instantly. Was hoping this cooler would get me to 4.5 @ 80C load =[


FYI, you should do research on the HW / IVB cpus. Most of the time your core temps have more to do with terrible seating of the IHS to the die, because of too much glue. That is why a lot of people have much better results with delidded or relidded CPUs of the mainstream desktop CPUs.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> FYI, you should do research on the HW / IVB cpus. Most of the time your core temps have more to do with terrible seating of the IHS to the die, because of too much glue. That is why a lot of people have much better results with delidded or relidded CPUs of the mainstream desktop CPUs.


I was going to say the same thing









If you delid which is fairly easy and have done a 3770k a few times myself, you will see much better temps.


----------



## crabula

I can hear something in my case, whenever it's idle, decreasing in noise for a second every few seconds then increasing back to where it was. I'm guessing it might be the H320 pump reacting to slight changes in temperature. Could it be bad for it or reduce its life?

If it is the pump/fans (they're all on the splitter plugged into pwm cpu fan header), I'm guessing setting a "cpu temp lower limit" in BIOS fan control that is higher than the temp it idles should make it maintain a steady RPM... guess I'll give it a try.


----------



## Avonosac

You can modify the PWM signal reaction points for your motherboard using Speedfan or other software if you want. Your board might also have some curve settings available in the BIOS, if it does then you can move it around if you don't want everything constantly changing RPMs. Personally I like to set the lowest RPMs possible for the desired level of performance and let the device sit there.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You can modify the PWM signal reaction points for your motherboard using Speedfan


I can't get speedfan to detect any fans for some reason. They don't show up in hwmonitor either. Only in the BIOS (ASUS Z87-Plus, latest BIOS). Not sure if it could be because I used all intel drivers instead of ones from ASUS. The BIOS has a cpu temp lower and upper limit, and a minimum and maximum % RPM to operate at between those temps.

Edit: AIDA 64 shows the pump/fans RPM. I'm happy with how the BIOS handles speeds anyhow.

Also just figured out that one of my voltage settings was too high unnecessarily and dropped 10C off my max load temp







Should be able to do 4.4-4.5 @<80C now.


----------



## Sharazzi

Figured this is the best place to ask this rather then starting a new thread.

When mounting the H220 can you mount it inverted to the recommended way in other words have the res pointing down with the fans blowing out (as an exhaust) rather then an intake?


----------



## Dudewitbow

if one can, its recommended to have the reservoir side pointing up, as for fan orientation, intake if you want absolute temperature performance, exhale if you want minimal dust buildup and a more controlled internal temperature.


----------



## Sharazzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if one can, its recommended to have the reservoir side pointing up, as for fan orientation, intake if you want absolute temperature performance, exhale if you want minimal dust buildup and a more controlled internal temperature.


Thanks for the fast response since intake is preference does anyone know if it can/will fit on the front of the Define R4 Black Pearl in place of the stock intake fans?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharazzi*
> 
> Figured this is the best place to ask this rather then starting a new thread.
> 
> When mounting the H220 can you mount it inverted to the recommended way in other words have the res pointing down with the fans blowing out (as an exhaust) rather then an intake?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharazzi*
> 
> Thanks for the fast response since intake is preference does anyone know if it can/will fit on the front of the Define R4 Black Pearl in place of the stock intake fans?


or you could just unscrew the fans, turn them the other way, and re screw..... then you wouldnt need to use it somewhere else....

side note my h220 came today









my htpc build is almost complete !~

ill post a pic soon !~


----------



## Diablo85

its upgrade time again...i'm crossfiring my 7950's, and dont have the money at the moment to buy a new radiator and case. i have a HAF-X with the H220. Would the H220 be enough for both cards and the cpu? My cpu will be de-lidded shortly, runs @4.5ghz @ 1.25 volts.


----------



## Mega Man

no basic rule of thumb for min cooling is 120mm rad for every component in your loop +120


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no basic rule of thumb for min cooling is 120mm rad for every component in your loop +120


i understand that it's a general rule of thumb for WC'ing, but i just want to know if it is "acceptable" for the time being until i can get another radiator/case to replace my HAF-X.


----------



## Mega Man

you would really be pushing your temps hard..... imo


----------



## Imprezzion

Why replace the HAF X. It'll fit a 360 + 240 quite easily tbh.


----------



## Sharazzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or you could just unscrew the fans, turn them the other way, and re screw..... then you wouldnt need to use it somewhere else....
> 
> side note my h220 came today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my htpc build is almost complete !~
> 
> ill post a pic soon !~


Yes, but from my some what basic understanding using a pull configuration is not as efficient as using them in push configuration.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharazzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or you could just unscrew the fans, turn them the other way, and re screw..... then you wouldnt need to use it somewhere else....
> 
> side note my h220 came today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my htpc build is almost complete !~
> 
> ill post a pic soon !~
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but from my some what basic understanding using a pull configuration is not as efficient as using them in push configuration.
Click to expand...

efficiency is the same between push and pull


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> efficiency is the same between push and pull


No, it isn't.

He is correct, the helix are much better pushers than pullers.

That sounds weird. Oh well, carry on.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> efficiency is the same between push and pull
> 
> 
> 
> No, it isn't.
> 
> He is correct, the helix are much better pushers than pullers.
> 
> That sounds weird. Oh well, carry on.
Click to expand...

if you say so.. no diff on my end though


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> if you say so.. no diff on my end though


nor when NCIX did it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> i understand that it's a general rule of thumb for WC'ing, but i just want to know if it is "acceptable" for the time being until i can get another radiator/case to replace my HAF-X.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you would really be pushing your temps hard..... imo


With the HAF X he should be able to get away with it. He won't be able to much overclocking though.


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Why replace the HAF X. It'll fit a 360 + 240 quite easily tbh.


I thought the HAF-X couldn't fit a 360+240 without modifying the hard drive cages? I have 1 ssd and 3 hard drive cages in use.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> I thought the HAF-X couldn't fit a 360+240 without modifying the hard drive cages? I have 1 ssd and 3 hard drive cages in use.


Right. In order to use a 3x120 and a 2x120 you'll need to mod the hard drive cage to fit the 2x120.


----------



## Diablo85

How many drive cages would I lose to the modification? This is my current setup. I can move the bottom two drive cages up a notch so that would make room there. I'd probably have the H220 on the bottom with a 360 up top. And it doesn't look like there is enough room for push/pull on the bottom radiator without removing most of the hard drive cages.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## bukojuice

have my h220 Rma'ed...cant wait for the replacement...


----------



## neurotix

Ordered a H220 to replace my Corsair H100i from NCIX.

Hope I don't have any problems with pump clicking or damaged radiators like some of the users in this thread.

Really excited to get it and install it and see the difference in temps.


----------



## gderreck

Greetings
I am new to high performance computing. I have just had a machine built with an H320. Maximus Hero motherboard. The motherboard has CPU, CPU_OPT, Chassis 1, Chassis 2, and Chassis 3 fan headers. All headers are PMW I believe. I want to change my fan setup and this is what I plan to do. Comments, criticism, guidance is most appreciated. I realize this is H220/320 owners club. Therefore please feel free to ignore fan comments:

h320 pump - CPU header
h320 fans - attach to 8 way header. attach header to CPU_OPT
noctua nf-a14 top (intake) chassis 1
noctua nf-a14 top (intake) chassis 2
noctua nf - a15 (exhaust) chassis 3

I will setup bios to have motherboard control fan/pump rpms. i do not plan to use fanxpert.

Chassis is a Corsair air 540. H320 is at front set as intake.

The major investment and interest is in the h320. I want to ensure the setup is correct. I must admit I don't understand the CPU_OPT header on the board. Does it operate independently from the CPU header?

Thanks again for reading this...and for any help.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Can someone confirm the best place to put my swiftech h320 into my corsair 900d as I'm going to fit it today


----------



## delpy8

Me again
Sorry one more question







will the below fittings be ok for the h320 as I'm wanting to add red tubing

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-Tubing-Deep-Blood-Red--BP-DBRCPF-CC3-pid-17174.html


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Me again
> Sorry one more question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will the below fittings be ok for the h320 as I'm wanting to add red tubing
> 
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-Tubing-Deep-Blood-Red--BP-DBRCPF-CC3-pid-17174.html


its the right size dimensions(3/8" by 5/8" or 10mm/16mm iirc), but just for forewarning, you cannot change the fittings on the actual pump/block itself, but you can change it on the radiator. Also note that there are rare occasions where 3/8" 5/8" tubing didn't fit well with its correct compression size, but that's a rare phenomena

edit: i could have sworn the fitting on the radiator was changable, i would have to double check now


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its the right size dimensions(3/8" by 5/8" or 10mm/16mm iirc), but just for forewarning, you cannot change the fittings on the actual pump/block itself, but you can change it on the radiator. Also note that there are rare occasions where 3/8" 5/8" tubing didn't fit well with its correct compression size, but that's a rare phenomena


Thanks for that. I'm only wanting to add to radiator so that's good news


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> I'm only wanting to add to radiator


We're sorry, but if youcells are trying to change the fittings to H320 radiator, youcells must be a magician.

The radiator fittings are as solid, or even more solid than in the pump. The pump fittings can be unscrwed, though there are no substitutes for them, but the fittings in the H320 radiator can't, as well as the H220 radiator fittings can't, they are solid structured swivel fittings.

The Swiftech H320 Elite kit comes with another type of radiator, where youcells can change the fittings as you like, but not in the plain H320 kit as it's the big brother of the H220.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We're sorry, but if youcells are trying to change the fittings to H320 radiator, youcells must be a magician.
> 
> The radiator fittings are as solid, or even more solid than in the pump. The pump fittings can be unscrwed, though there are no substitutes for them, but the fittings in the H320 radiator can't, as well as the H220 radiator fittings can't, they are solid structured swivel fittings.
> 
> OK the for for the confirmation saved me a lot of trouble
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Swiftech H320 Elite kit comes with another type of radiator, where youcells can change the fittings as you like, but not in the plain H320 kit as it's the big brother of the H220.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

delete


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gderreck*
> 
> Greetings
> I am new to high performance computing. I have just had a machine built with an H320. Maximus Hero motherboard. The motherboard has CPU, CPU_OPT, Chassis 1, Chassis 2, and Chassis 3 fan headers. All headers are PMW I believe. I want to change my fan setup and this is what I plan to do. Comments, criticism, guidance is most appreciated. I realize this is H220/320 owners club. Therefore please feel free to ignore fan comments:
> 
> h320 pump - CPU header
> h320 fans - attach to 8 way header. attach header to CPU_OPT
> noctua nf-a14 top (intake) chassis 1
> noctua nf-a14 top (intake) chassis 2
> noctua nf - a15 (exhaust) chassis 3
> 
> I will setup bios to have motherboard control fan/pump rpms. i do not plan to use fanxpert.
> 
> Chassis is a Corsair air 540. H320 is at front set as intake.
> 
> The major investment and interest is in the h320. I want to ensure the setup is correct. I must admit I don't understand the CPU_OPT header on the board. Does it operate independently from the CPU header?
> 
> Thanks again for reading this...and for any help.


Nope, it does not act independently. It's primarily used for dual fan tower coolers that don't come with splitters but it's vert handy for this as well as the pump wire is way too short to reach my 8 way splitter which due to thickness i had to put on the backside of the 5,25" bays.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is there a way to make sure if the pump is the new or the old version on the H220 ?
Even on 1150rpm wich seems to be the minimum speed i can set it on my H220 makes this annoying sound wich drives me insane, having great fans and other components seems to be pointless if the pump is *SO noisy*

Perhaps it has something to do with the way my radiator is positioned ? The fillport cap is facing down and thats due to the fact that the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans dont like to rotate if they are between the top of my case and te rad since theres noroom for them to spin up.
Also the pump is connected to the MB CPU FAN header.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Is there a way to make sure if the pump is the new or the old version on the H220 ?
> Even on 1150rpm wich seems to be the minimum speed i can set it on my H220 makes this annoying sound wich drives me insane, having great fans and other components seems to be pointless if the pump is *SO noisy*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps it has something to do with the way my radiator is positioned ? The fillport cap is facing down and thats due to the fact that the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans dont like to rotate if they are between the top of my case and te rad since theres noroom for them to spin up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


More than likely the rad. mount is your issue. If you develop an air bubble then the fillport will act as an airtrap for the bubble to escape...if the fillport is facing up. I would think your fans should be able to work the other way as they are the legendary gts. Can you run push/pull? Another option would be to add a small res. to act as the new airtrap, with added cost of the res., tube, fittings, etc.


----------



## Topsu

I am planning to h220 soon.









If I want to add gpu to the loop later, would adding 120/140mm radiator to the loop improve temps nicely or should sticking with just the h220 rad be enough?


----------



## Avonosac

You will see an improvement with the additional radiator, it might be slight though. There are many variables but it mostly boils down to how much heat you are putting in the loop with your overclocks. You can use the H220 radiator only, and it will be sufficient for light overclocks, but your temperatures will of course be higher, than if you added more radiator space.


----------



## slikk11

Hi all. I'm new here and I have a question. Is it possible to add two more fans to the H220 rad. I want to have two fans under the rad, and two fans on the top of the rad in a push pull position blowing air out the top of my case. I have the Corsair Air 540. Thanks for any info. If possible to do this,is there a video that can show me exactly how to doe this? Thanks again.


----------



## delpy8

Hi all Can someone recommend a good fan controller for the h320
And if possible support 10 fans


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi all Can someone recommend a good fan controller for the h320
> And if possible support 10 fans


aqua computer..


----------



## gderreck

Thanks for the info Imprezzion.

Graham


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slikk11*
> 
> Hi all. I'm new here and I have a question. Is it possible to add two more fans to the H220 rad. I want to have two fans under the rad, and two fans on the top of the rad in a push pull position blowing air out the top of my case. I have the Corsair Air 540. Thanks for any info. If possible to do this,is there a video that can show me exactly how to doe this? Thanks again.


is it possible yes, if you need a video to show you how to put on a fan... i am not trying to be rude but... i dont think you should do it.....

to be honest it wont help much if at all....

this rad is designed for low air flow max results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> aqua computer..


the aquaero 6 just came out if getting a NON lt version i would wait for it as the heat is almost non existent. they already said no plans for a lt version. the lt version would need a heat sink or water block for it. both are sold .


----------



## Imprezzion

I still love my old Lamptron FC-8. Can control 8 fans @ 30w per channel so power enough for like, 40 fans...

VERY good build quality, very nice and linear knob response for the fans, color changable LED's..

I got some sleeved 3 pin extensions with mine but I now use PWM fans with the PWM splitter to run my H320's fans and pump. The rest of my casefans run through the FC-8 still.


----------



## Scotty99

Wow they told they cant sell this in US, thats crazy. Ive been away from hardware stuff for a few months and just found this out.

So what is the general consensus on this unit now that its been out for a while, how is the reliability? Back when i was gonna build a pc i was torn between this and the h100i but irl things popped up and never had the chance.

Also, any updates on the lawsuit and do you think they will ever be for sale in the states again?


----------



## jimi977

^
i think the new cooler master glacer 240l is a re-branded h220 and will sell in the us
http://www.techpowerup.com/192997/cooler-master-announces-the-glacer-240l-cpu-liquid-cooler.html


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> ^
> i think the new cooler master glacer 240l is a re-branded h220 and will sell in the us
> http://www.techpowerup.com/192997/cooler-master-announces-the-glacer-240l-cpu-liquid-cooler.html


Haha, good find. That does look EXACTLY like a h220.

I take it back, that doesn't just look like an H220, it is an h220 with different fans.

Atta boy Gabe!


----------



## Mega Man

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA eat it patent trolls !


----------



## gdubc

That's pretty awesome. Two fillports sounds good too for those that front mount.


----------



## waterfirst

What's the (average) temperature with a H220 and a 4770K @ stock and @ moderate oc?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> ^
> i think the new cooler master glacer 240l is a re-branded h220 and will sell in the us
> http://www.techpowerup.com/192997/cooler-master-announces-the-glacer-240l-cpu-liquid-cooler.html


Nice finding. It brings a smile to my face. Well done Gabe. Eat that up patent trolls...


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> ^
> i think the new cooler master glacer 240l is a re-branded h220 and will sell in the us
> http://www.techpowerup.com/192997/cooler-master-announces-the-glacer-240l-cpu-liquid-cooler.html


Haha. Nice.

I just got my H220 back from RMA (they replaced the impeller on my first one) and man it is so much quieter now. It's 21C in my house and so far folding temps haven't topped 60C. Very happy


----------



## CM MR HAF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Haha, good find. That does look EXACTLY like a h220.
> 
> I take it back, that doesn't just look like an H220, it is an h220 with different fans.
> 
> Atta boy Gabe!


I'd like to compliment Swiftech technology, while providing information on the Glacer 240L. While the fundamentals are the H220, I requested an updated product setting. We took the latest revision H220 that many of you know and love and added some unique abilities.

-Pump speed changed to PWM controlled with a speed of 1200-3500rpm
-CM engineers measured the Glacer 240L pump head at 2.65mH20
-Pump now has a SATA power lead because the pump is more powerful
-Fans are now 2400rpm blademaster industrial fans which can be independently controlled by PWM

So with a Glacer 240L, its different than an H220, but has enough of the familiar to be excellent. The initial availability will be in the Americas with the continental USA ready for first availability. Right now the first shipment is in stock at Newegg here.


----------



## BramSLI1

And there you have it folks. We're back in business! We should probably have this thread include the Glacer 240L in the title. Cough- Phelan -Cough. If anyone needs assistance I'm familiar with both products. As Jon the CM Rep stated, they are quite similar.


----------



## M3TAl

O wow, was not expecting this at all. Bravo Swiftech and Cooler Master!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Thanks - T


----------



## ironhide138

Does anyone have any experience with the coolermaster fans used on the glacier?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with the coolermaster fans used on the glacier?


Yes, I do actually. They are quite good, but just a little noisier than our Helix fans. At least that's been my experience. I think they're also rated for a bit more static pressure.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't know anything about them. Check to see if Martin has tested them, or maybe some one else.

I would love to check myself but no internet or tv for past 3 days(technician is actually here right now as I type, hopefully fixing it lol).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> I'd like to compliment Swiftech technology, while providing information on the Glacer 240L. While the fundamentals are the H220, I requested an updated product setting. We took the latest revision H220 that many of you know and love and added some unique abilities.
> 
> -Pump speed changed to PWM controlled with a speed of 1200-3500rpm
> -CM engineers measured the Glacer 240L pump head at 2.65mH20
> *-Pump now has a SATA power lead because the pump is more powerful*
> -Fans are now 2400rpm blademaster industrial fans which can be independently controlled by PWM
> 
> So with a Glacer 240L, its different than an H220, but has enough of the familiar to be excellent. The initial availability will be in the Americas with the continental USA ready for first availability. Right now the first shipment is in stock at Newegg here.


nice and please dont take this the wrong way.

but i have to point something out. you went with sata power connector because most ppl are trying to phase out molex from their systems from a ascetics standpoint +1 to you, however with that said, although i am sure sata has enough amps to power this pump, molex is the more powerful ( can run more amps, by more then double~ sata 4.5a of 12v vs 11a of molex 12v ) of the 2, the only connector i know of that is more powerful ( disregarding 4&8 pin EPS ) is the 6 pin pcie.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> And there you have it folks. We're back in business! We should probably have this thread include the Glacer 240L in the title. Cough- Phelan -Cough. If anyone needs assistance I'm familiar with both products. As Jon the CM Rep stated, they are quite similar.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA eat it patent trolls !


i stand by my statement.... if only samsung would take a hint from you guys !~ then again i think samsung came out ahead of apple and made it to where the customers didnt pay for the frivolous lawsuit...

side note, i dont understand how this protects from a lawsuit? didnt astec ( spelling ) go after coolit as they are an oen as well ?


----------



## M3TAl

Think Asetek went after CM as well but CM is a much larger company. CM most likely has a much larger more experienced team of lawyers and can better refute Asetek in the courts.

This is all speculation of course. I'm just assuming Swiftech no longer has to worry about going to court (CM does) and CM gets an even better product with the combined efforts of Swiftech and CM.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

dissapointments with my H220 continue 1.35v avx enabled linx @4770K @ delided @ clu between the ihs and the core,temps as high as 84c [ ambient ~22] fans are schyte gentle typhoons @ 5v & pump is running @ 1150 because everything above that is unbearable, hell even 1150 is far from inaudible, pump has this relentless whirr to it, seeme like a custom loop is the only way to go.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> dissapointments with my H220 continue 1.35v avx enabled linx @4770K @ delided @ clu between the ihs and the core,temps as high as 84c [ ambient ~22] fans are schyte gentle typhoons @ 5v & pump is running @ 1150 because everything above that is unbearable, hell even 1150 is far from inaudible, pump has this relentless whirr to it, seeme like a custom loop is the only way to go.


Please send me a PM about this so that I can help you resolve this issue.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> I'd like to compliment Swiftech technology, while providing information on the Glacer 240L. While the fundamentals are the H220, I requested an updated product setting. We took the latest revision H220 that many of you know and love and added some unique abilities.
> 
> -Pump speed changed to PWM controlled with a speed of 1200-3500rpm
> -CM engineers measured the Glacer 240L pump head at 2.65mH20
> -Pump now has a SATA power lead because the pump is more powerful
> -Fans are now 2400rpm blademaster industrial fans which can be independently controlled by PWM
> 
> So with a Glacer 240L, its different than an H220, but has enough of the familiar to be excellent. The initial availability will be in the Americas with the continental USA ready for first availability. Right now the first shipment is in stock at Newegg here.


Well played good sirs, well played.

You took about the only parts of the H220 which could be made better, and made them better. Bit more power, and you made it a SATA connector (well the revision after 320 shipped with SATA also) and then you made it cheaper. I know Swiftech isn't making as much per unit now for this, but I can't say I'm not happy to have these units back on the shelves in the states.

Good for both companies, and good for the consumer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That's pretty awesome. Two fillports sounds good too for those that front mount.


two fill ports? where is the second ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Well played good sirs, well played.
> 
> You took about the only parts of the H220 which could be made better, and made them better. Bit more power, and you made it a SATA connector (well the revision after 320 shipped with SATA also) and then you made it cheaper. I know Swiftech isn't making as much per unit now for this, but I can't say I'm not happy to have these units back on the shelves in the states.
> 
> Good for both companies, and good for the consumer.


how so ? to me they are priced the same regular price h220 140, regular price for CM h220 140, atm newegg has it on sale


----------



## Scotty99

Are these the same fans that come with the glacer?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

These say 2k rpm not 2400 but they look the same. If i bought the unit id want two more fans for push/pull and my OCD needs to have the same fans lol!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Are these the same fans that come with the glacer?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
> 
> These say 2k rpm not 2400 but they look the same. If i bought the unit id want two more fans for push/pull and my OCD needs to have the same fans lol!


Same design, but different speeds.
Going P/P will net small difference for a thin rad with low FPI.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> two fill ports? where is the second ?


I don't see it in the pics but it was stated as such in the techpowerup article. I was going to get another h220 like you but now I think I will give this a try. Now if only my vehicles would quit breaking I would order one!


----------



## ez12a

this is good news. Hopefully Swiftech will reach Asetek popularity in the AIO market with CM behind the marketing and branding.


----------



## drew666

will there be a 360 version?


----------



## selk22

I started this thread yesterday when this was announced.

Probably a good place to discuss it









http://www.overclock.net/t/1436080/tpu-cooler-master-announces-the-glacer-240l-cpu-liquid-cooler


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I don't see it in the pics but it was stated as such in the techpowerup article. I was going to get another h220 like you but now I think I will give this a try. Now if only my vehicles would quit breaking I would order one!


I've read the article and I really don't think this has an extra fill-port. I also don't know where you'd put it. I think they must have misunderstood something.


----------



## Phelan

Honestly I've been anticipating this change ever since Gabe mentioned that Swiftech was in talks with other brands to resell different variants of the H220. This has been in the works almost as long as the H220 is old...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've read the article and I really don't think this has an extra fill-port. I also don't know where you'd put it. I think they must have misunderstood something.


Yeah I didn't see it in the pics at all. Oh well. Still will be good to see the rebirth of the h220.


----------



## TeeBlack

Good move Swiftech teaming up with CM on the Glacier 240L


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice and please dont take this the wrong way.
> 
> but i have to point something out. you went with sata power connector because most ppl are trying to phase out molex from their systems from a ascetics standpoint +1 to you, however with that said, although i am sure sata has enough amps to power this pump, molex is the more powerful ( can run more amps, by more then double~ sata 4.5a of 12v vs 11a of molex 12v ) of the 2, the only connector i know of that is more powerful ( disregarding 4&8 pin EPS ) is the 6 pin pcie...


Actually, Jon is correct on this one. The H220 uses a simple PWM fan header to power itself. The molex/SATA plug was on the splitter. The 240L does not come with a splitter, but like the Apogee Drive II, has a fan header for PWM functions and a separate plug for power (SATA for the 240L pump and Molex for the APD2), since at 3500 rpm it will consume closer to 10 or 12w instead of the 6 the H220 uses. The wattage figure I estimated based on the fact that the in-house pump performs alongside, and better at higher rpms, than an MCP35X, while the latter consumes 18w at full speed.


----------



## Mega Man

huh.... really i must of got mixed up i coulda swore that the h220 used a molex connection my bad ! ( obviously i have not had time to enjoy my h220 )


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

H220/H320 uses a single 4 pin PWM connector to control Pump Speed and power.
The Glacer 240L uses 4pin PWM only for speed control and sata for power only to the pump.

The 8-way splitter was not needed, it was just an extra accessory to allow control of multiple fans.


----------



## michael-ocn

Sweet... Glacier 240L... an h220 for the US... and nicely priced... kudos to both companies for getting this done









CM is growing quite the collection of asetek alternatives: seidon, eisberg, nepton, and now the glacier line.

How different is the glacier pump/block from the h220 pump/block? I see its rated to run at a higher rpm and i see the power inputs are separate from the 4pin pwn inputs (and a new cover too)... but is this a new rev of the pump deep down inside?

A fan controller that takes a PWM signal from the mobo as a master, and then generates different PWM signals for attached devices such that the user has control over the min/max speeds produced by the generated signals but they still vary in response to the master... would be nice. Does anybody know of such a fan controller?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Sweet... Glacier 240L... an h220 for the US... and nicely priced... kudos to both companies for getting this done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CM is growing quite the collection of asetek alternatives: seidon, eisberg, nepton, and now the glacier line.
> 
> How different is the glacier pump/block from the h220 pump/block? I see its rated to run at a higher rpm and i see the power inputs are separate from the 4pin pwn inputs (and a new cover too)... but is this a new rev of the pump deep down inside?
> 
> A fan controller that takes a PWM signal from the mobo as a master, and then generates different PWM signals for attached devices such that the user has control over the min/max speeds produced by the generated signals but they still vary in response to the master... would be nice. Does anybody know of such a fan controller?


The internals of the pump are essentially the same as the H220, just with a higher RPM. A fan controller that can split the master control from the motherboard to vary the speed of different connected devices doesn't exist. I don't even think that would be possible to do because there will only be one output to the motherboard. The Aquaero is the only PWM controller that even comes close to doing what you want. It's a bit pricey though.


----------



## Phelan

I had a chat with Jon at CM yesterday to clarify a few differences. The 240L has the same pump as the H220/320 with the revision 2 impeller, but tuned to 3500 rpm max. Gabe originally designed this pump to run up to 4500 rpm, to compete (and outperform slightly) the MCP35X. So the extra headroom is not a problem. It will consume a bit more power (w) than the H220 at max, hence the new SATA power connector on the pump along with the PWM fan header. The Glacer 240L does not come with a PWM splitter, so you will have to hook up the fans elsewhere, like on your mobo or fan controller. Also, the included fans are more robust than the Helixes (albeit louder), with double the Static Pressure and over 50% more CFM, so running push or pull will be similar to push and pull with the Helixes. Another note is that the radiator has no script stamped, as opposed to the H220. I believe the pump still has the Swiftech logo underneath the CM cover though.


----------



## michael-ocn

^^^ Thnx for the details guys.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> ....A fan controller that can split the master control from the motherboard to vary the speed of different connected devices doesn't exist. I don't even think that would be possible to do because there will only be one output to the motherboard. The Aquaero is the only PWM controller that even comes close to doing what you want. It's a bit pricey though.


I don't see anything fundamentally impossible about it (its cant be a straight splitter). One input from the mobo, multiple outputs, the output signals are computed as a function of the input signal and additional user settings.

I know about the aquero but haven't looked at the details of what it can do, i should do that.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Has there been any updates on the "Patent" case? I am just now finding out about this since I was looking to finally get an H220. I wanted to get one when they came out but was going to wait and get one as a Christmas present to myself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Has there been any updates on the "Patent" case? I am just now finding out about this since I was looking to finally get an H220. I wanted to get one when they came out but was going to wait and get one as a Christmas present to myself.


Yes. Cooler Master is now selling their version of our H220 kit. It's called the Glacer 240L. Read the last couple of pages to find out more.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I saw that in the title change of the thread. I was wondering but wasn't sure. I will have to see if I can find some good reviews on that model.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It is the same as H220, different fans, 500rpm faster pump.
If you put the same fans on the H220 and Glacer 240L performance would be the same.


----------



## jocelyn

Well, just got home from Newegg, here's my new Glacer 240L










I've never seen/used an H220 in person, but from pictures it sure looks 99% identical to me.

Now to keep waiting for a good deal on a 4770k


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jocelyn*
> 
> Well, just got home from Newegg, here's my new Glacer 240L
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen/used an H220 in person, but from pictures it sure looks 99% identical to me.
> 
> Now to keep waiting for a good deal on a 4770k


Awesome. Now you should buy an i7 920, overclock it to 4.2 and post your temps.









Looking forward to reviews on this but those fans are pretty loud IIRC.


----------



## M3TAl

Some people might be interested in a video of the fans themselves.

Also, where can one go to a physical NewEgg?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Some people might be interested in a video of the fans themselves.
> 
> Also, where can one go to a physical NewEgg?


Newegg is online only.
As for the fans the Seidon is 2400 rpm fans. This will give you an idea, as it is the same fan used on Glacer 240l


----------



## jocelyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Some people might be interested in a video of the fans themselves.
> 
> Also, where can one go to a physical NewEgg?


I live ~20 miles from their will-call location in Industry, California, so I almost always just drive down and pick up my orders in person.


----------



## Martinm210

Nice, glad to see the little RPM boost, this might help with bleeding some of the expanded loops.

Any details about what "rev 2 impeller" means? Haven't seen any pictures or details to describe what change happened. Just curious.

Would also be nice to see some eisberg vs 240L performance runs. No doubt the slightly higher pump and fan speeds will translate to higher peak thermal performance over the H220, of coarse that comes with the added noise, but likely similar when dialed down to 1800rpm fan speeds or close anyhow.

Both look like really good kits, nice to have the option.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice, glad to see the little RPM boost, this might help with bleeding some of the expanded loops.
> 
> Any details about what "rev 2 impeller" means? Haven't seen any pictures or details to describe what change happened. Just curious.
> 
> Would also be nice to see some eisberg vs glacier performance runs at like noise levels. Both look like really good kits.


I'll have to dig out the pics, but the revision 2 impeller was implemented with the H320 and all H220s since that time frame. I has 3 large, angled holes in the impeller to bleed out air from behind, as compared to the one small hole in the original design. It also feels a bit sharper along the edges. Bryan sent me one a while back for the H220 I got from you







.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Noise should not be much different from H220/Glacer.
New impeller has been viewed in Phelan post.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/6200_50#post_20690009


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> ^^^ Thnx for the details guys.
> I don't see anything fundamentally impossible about it (its cant be a straight splitter). One input from the mobo, multiple outputs, the output signals are computed as a function of the input signal and additional user settings.
> 
> I know about the aquero but haven't looked at the details of what it can do, i should do that.


you can use these if you really want to, but you wont be able to independantly control the speed,
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx
also if you are going for anything but the lt of the aquaero i would get the aquaero 6 ( there wont be a lt ) as it is much much much more powerful then the 5

however i would just get the splitter imo


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Noise should not be much different from H220/Glacer.
> New impeller has been viewed in Phelan post.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/6200_50#post_20690009


Perfect, looks like a simple few holes to help with bleeding..very good!


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I'll have to dig out the pics, but the revision 2 impeller was implemented with the H320 and all H220s since that time frame. I has 3 large, angled holes in the impeller to bleed out air from behind, as compared to the one small hole in the original design. It also feels a bit sharper along the edges. Bryan sent me one a while back for the H220 I got from you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nice! Thanks for the picture. Always curious how things work..


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice! Thanks for the picture. Always curious how things work..


No prob! thanks for the H220







.


----------



## SergAkaDuHa

Hey Guys,

I am going to get H220 next week to go with my 4770k..

Any advice? Should I consider H320?


----------



## Mega Man

can it fit in your case >>>>no>>>>>> then no
v
v
v
v
y
e
s
v
v
v
can you afford it >>>>>no>>>>>> then no
v
v
v
v
y
e
s
v
v
v
do you want cooler temps >>>>>>no>>>>>>> then no
v
v
v
v
y
e
s
v
v
v
then yes


----------



## Roger23

Hello lucky H220 Owner's









I want to put my new h220 on the front of a Define r4....but:

- The radiator will be slightly under the pump. Is a problem? I will change the position if I have problems, but this will be too late?

- Switech says that orientation of the pump doesn't matter, but if I have to fit the pump rotated 90 degrees better with the liquid intake from top or bottom?

Thanks!

Roger

Ps Like the following build but with a h220
http://cdn.overclock.net/b/be/500x1000px-LL-be9e77ba_2e20ba27a7e45d00664f4043cba12425.png


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roger23*
> 
> Hello lucky H220 Owner's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put my new h220 on the front of a Define r4....but:
> 
> - The radiator will be slightly under the pump. Is a problem? I will change the position if I have problems, but this will be too late?
> 
> - Switech says that orientation of the pump doesn't matter, but if I have to fit the pump rotated 90 degrees better with the liquid intake from top or bottom?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Roger
> 
> Ps Like the following build but with a h220
> http://cdn.overclock.net/b/be/500x1000px-LL-be9e77ba_2e20ba27a7e45d00664f4043cba12425.png


That build is not an H220. The pump do not matter how it is placed.
Problem is the tubing is not long enough correctly with the res on top.
If you go with the tubing up, and res below you will have no where for the air to go and will flow through the loop constantly and be worse.

Your best is to mount it on top.


----------



## Roger23

First Thank your for the super fast reply!!!

If I understand correctly:

- *Pump rotated only if the res is over the pump*
- *Res on front only without rotating the pump*

Tubing is just long enough for a front mount rad and pump with intakes horizontal (standard fit)
Can I try this configuration without permanently ruin the pump?

I wrote "Ps Like the following build but with a h220".

If the H220 on front is a definitive no go I will sacrifice the the sound-absorbing material (does make a difference in overall sound reduction?) on top and mount there the H220.

Thank you!


----------



## michael-ocn

Nope, that's not what he said.

* Pump orientation does not matter.
* If the rad is mounted in the front of the case, the reservoir end of the rad should be up top which would put the tubing side of it on the bottom.

He doesn't think the tubing is long enough to reach from the cpu down to the bottom of the front of the case. Is it? You want the reservoir end of the radiator pointed up to trap air in there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roger23*
> 
> If I understand correctly:
> 
> - *Pump rotated only if the res is over the pump*
> - *Res on front only without rotating the pump*
> 
> Tubing is just long enough for a front mount rad and pump with intakes horizontal (standard fit)
> Can I try this configuration without permanently ruin the pump?
> 
> I wrote "Ps Like the following build but with a h220".
> 
> If the H220 on front is a definitive no go I will sacrifice the the sound-absorbing material (does make a difference in overall sound reduction?) on top and mount there the H220.
> 
> Thank you!


----------



## Roger23

Now is clear, thanks.

No, original tubing are not long enough to go down to the bottom of the case.
I will mount the h220 on top.

Last...question....this H220 mounted on bottom of a Rave r2 is not a problem?
http://www.swiftech.org/images/H220/Silverstone-Raven-02.jpg


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roger23*
> 
> Now is clear, thanks.
> 
> No, original tubing are not long enough to go down to the bottom of the case.
> I will mount the h220 on top.
> 
> Last...question....this H220 mounted on bottom of a Rave r2 is not a problem?
> http://www.swiftech.org/images/H220/Silverstone-Raven-02.jpg


Should be no problem removing the 180mm fans and putting your own 120mm to setup the push/pull, someone said earlier in this thread that he used the rad brackets included to attach it to the 180mm fans.

I'm planning to do this setup as well on my RV03.

Edit: Found it post # 355


----------



## bobsaget

I recently quit the club since I sold my H220.

I saw yesterday that the H220 was coming back to the US thanks to the partnership with CM! This is definitely a nice move, congratulations Swiftech! I hope the product will be successful, you deserve it


----------



## francisw19

Hey guys, I just pulled the trigger on a Swiftech H220! It'll be going into my Corsair Air 540 mounted up top. I'm quite excited for this...hopefully it gets here before the weekend! Will definitely post pictures when everything is completed.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roger23*
> 
> Now is clear, thanks.
> 
> No, original tubing are not long enough to go down to the bottom of the case.
> I will mount the h220 on top.
> 
> Last...question....this H220 mounted on bottom of a Rave r2 is not a problem?
> http://www.swiftech.org/images/H220/Silverstone-Raven-02.jpg


That one is good because the fillport is up.

If you wanted yours in front still, you can also add something like the swiftech micro res. & use that for the air trap.

It is just that when it is upside down without a trap of some type that you will get a problem. It might be quiet at first but fluid loss to evaporation will eventually cause air bubbles to form.


----------



## Roger23

Hello!

Some updates on my plan to fit an H220 in a Define R4.

After the precious help got here i decided to mount the radiator on the top.
Tubes are too short to fit the radiator in the front with the reservoir on top.

I fit it just with 2 screws as proof of concept.

Was not easy i had to move the radiator both lateral and vertical.because of the motherboard,
an Asus Maximus Hero VI.

In the following pictures you can see the H220 on top with tubing routed on the cdrom slot and from the top. I will never install a cdrom.
Also you can see that the distance between the radiator and the ps2 port is like 2mm (0.07 in).

I think this is the only solution without customizing the case.

Between the 2 tubing routing solution which do you prefer and why?
Aesthetic is not important, no window









Thankssssssssssssss!

Saturday the build start! I will log the result!!!!!!!

Edit: i will use 2 Nf-f12 for the radiator in pull.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roger23*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Some updates on my plan to fit an H220 in a Define R4.
> 
> After the precious help got here i decided to mount the radiator on the top.
> Tubes are too short to fit the radiator in the front with the reservoir on top.
> 
> I fit it just with 2 screws as proof of concept.
> 
> Was not easy i had to move the radiator both lateral and vertical.because of the motherboard,
> an Asus Maximus Hero VI.
> 
> In the following pictures you can see the H220 on top with tubing routed on the cdrom slot and from the top. I will never install a cdrom.
> Also you can see that the distance between the radiator and the ps2 port is like 2mm (0.07 in).
> 
> I think this is the only solution without customizing the case.
> 
> Between the 2 tubing routing solution which do you prefer and why?
> Aesthetic is not important, no window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankssssssssssssss!
> 
> Saturday the build start! I will log the result!!!!!!!
> 
> Edit: i will use 2 Nf-f12 for the radiator in pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I say go with the second routing. But when you get all the wiring done it might be better less cluttered to have the tubing positioned like the first pictures.


----------



## outofmyheadyo




----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 
> 
> Hów are you planning to fit the 8 pin there, I might throw my R4 out because theres is just not enough room between the 8 pin and the rad, and i dont feel like drilling new holes ontop + washers.


You should be able to move the rad slightlyfurther from the motherboard tray by using different mesh holes as rad mounts.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> You should be able to move the rad slightlyfurther from the motherboard tray by using different mesh holes as rad mounts.


I thought of that too, but if you look at the picture he posted he'll have to drill holes for the screws because he's already at the edge of the mesh. You can make out his motherboard at the bottom of the picture he posted. I think he's out of space unless he's willing to drill more holes.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That one is good because the fillport is up.
> 
> If you wanted yours in front still, you can also add something like the swiftech micro res. & use that for the air trap.
> 
> It is just that when it is upside down without a trap of some type that you will get a problem. It might be quiet at first but fluid loss to evaporation will eventually cause air bubbles to form.


Do you mean that any extra res should help with the air trap? Because in that case I could probably stick a 100m res in there just for this. How would you recommend a loop to go with this setup?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Do you mean that any extra res should help with the air trap? Because in that case I could probably stick a 100m res in there just for this. How would you recommend a loop to go with this setup?


Yes, adding an extra res can help by providing an air trap. How to put one in your loop though will depend on how your current loop is configured and what case you're using.


----------



## Roger23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Hów are you planning to fit the 8 pin there, I might throw my R4 out because theres is just not enough room between the 8 pin and the rad, and i dont feel like drilling new holes ontop + washers.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Very good question [IMG alt="smile.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Honestly ... i didn't check..the clearance...for sure we will know before the end of the week end.
> 
> Maybe, maybe I can move a little bit radiator, but then i have to fix it in the mesh holes and/or drill holes the top of the case.
> 
> the 8 pin plug is a little bit shorter than the ps2.
> 
> ps: i can't try now all hardware is re-boxed....an here is midnight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps2: last dirty solution is to connect the 8 pin cables direct to the motherboard male connector...without the female plastic connector...but this in very unstable and unsure.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, adding an extra res can help by providing an air trap. How to put one in your loop though will depend on how your current loop is configured and what case you're using.


Since I'm on the Raven RV03, I'm very limited as to where I can put the radiator and I was thinking something like this where the tubing would be on top and the fill port on the bottom, and maybe have the res at the back of the case.

My first assumption for the loop would be RES > CPU > RAD.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Since I'm on the Raven RV03, I'm very limited as to where I can put the radiator and I was thinking something like this where the tubing would be on top and the fill port on the bottom, and maybe have the res at the back of the case.
> 
> My first assumption for the loop would be RES > CPU > RAD.


That should work pretty well. I don't see any issues with it. In that configuration you should be able to use just about any reservoir you want. The only one that you won't be able to use would be a bay res, obviously.


----------



## jedi304

Awesome! That clears up all my doubts about going with the H220, I'll be picking it up soon then! Thanks!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I thought of that too, but if you look at the picture he posted he'll have to drill holes for the screws because he's already at the edge of the mesh. You can make out his motherboard at the bottom of the picture he posted. I think he's out of space unless he's willing to drill more holes.


Ah you're right, I was looking at the pic backwards :/.


----------



## Mega Man

for anyone with case issues looking at a new case.... i have 1 word for you ! CASELABS !


----------



## selk22

Okay so I am planning the expansion of my H220 right now and need some help with the purchase details..

Its going to consist eventually of 1 additional 120mm rad and a 290x GPU block. Once I change cases I will also pick up another 220rad/320.

This is the tubing I figured I would use since its basically the original tubing which I like but I can now order in white
http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing.aspx

I need 3/8 by 5/8 right?

I would also like to use Swiftech rads so they match the h220 unless you guys think I will see a huge performance difference between these two.. Also this will be where the back exhaust fan is so would it be better to use a 140mm rad?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13544/ex-rad-261/Swiftech_MCR120-XP_eXtreme_Performance_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR120-XP.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank

and

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8521/ex-rad-144/XSPC_RX120_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank

I recently did an 800d build and used the Swiftech Lok & Seal fittings and I really like those so I figure why not.. By my estimation right now I only need 4 right?

Any help here is really appreciated as I would not like to mess this up!

Any Coolant suggestions also?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Okay so I am planning the expansion of my H220 right now and need some help with the purchase details..
> 
> Its going to consist eventually of 1 additional 120mm rad and a 290x GPU block. Once I change cases I will also pick up another 220rad/320.
> 
> This is the tubing I figured I would use since its basically the original tubing which I like but I can now order in white
> http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing.aspx
> 
> I need 3/8 by 5/8 right?
> 
> I would also like to use Swiftech rads so they match the h220 unless you guys think I will see a huge performance difference between these two.. Also this will be where the back exhaust fan is so would it be better to use a 140mm rad?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13544/ex-rad-261/Swiftech_MCR120-XP_eXtreme_Performance_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR120-XP.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8521/ex-rad-144/XSPC_RX120_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s159#blank
> 
> I recently did an 800d build and used the Swiftech Lok & Seal fittings and I really like those so I figure why not.. By my estimation right now I only need 4 right?
> 
> Any help here is really appreciated as I would not like to mess this up!
> 
> Any Coolant suggestions also?


Yes you would only need 4 Lok-Seal fittings, and 2 G1/4" plugs if you GPU block doesn't include them (most do). Get 3/8x5/8" fittings and tubing. There will be little no difference between the XSPC and Swiftech 120 rads. If you can fit a 140 rad, it will have better performance if you find a good enough fan, like the Helix 140 or the Akasa Vipers.


----------



## selk22

Yeah I have only heard bad things about the SP of 140mm fans but I would be open to suggestions if anyone has experience?

You said the helix has a 140mm version?


----------



## Mega Man

water+ biocide !


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Yeah I have only heard bad things about the SP of 140mm fans but I would be open to suggestions if anyone has experience?
> 
> You said the helix has a 140mm version?


Yep and they are pretty good, especially for the price. The Vipers are among the best 140mm, but they are yellow (not a big deal if you don't mind painting them like myself).


----------



## selk22

Awesome... Well thanks guys +rep

Most likely I will go with the helix 140 and a swiftech 140mm rad because all the fans right now are helix anyway and I really don't think they are loud at all.

I am hoping that the h220 and a single 140mm rad will be enough for a OC'd 3930k and the heat heavy 290x. It will for sure be best once I am able to switch cases and pick up another 220 or 320..

I will post pics of all this next month

Also Phelan.. I posted a long time ago if I could be added to the club. Any chance of this?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Yeah I have only heard bad things about the SP of 140mm fans but I would be open to suggestions if anyone has experience?
> 
> You said the helix has a 140mm version?


Noctua has a 140mm fan that might work well, has decent static pressure and is not loud.
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Noctua-PWM-NF-A14,22393.html
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286243-Noctua-NF-A14-PWM


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Awesome... Well thanks guys +rep
> 
> Most likely I will go with the helix 140 and a swiftech 140mm rad because all the fans right now are helix anyway and I really don't think they are loud at all.
> 
> I am hoping that the h220 and a single 140mm rad will be enough for a OC'd 3930k and the heat heavy 290x. It will for sure be best once I am able to switch cases and pick up another 220 or 320..
> 
> I will post pics of all this next month
> 
> Also Phelan.. I posted a long time ago if I could be added to the club. Any chance of this?


There's a form in the OP that automatically adds you to the owners' list. Is it not working? I'll add you to the supplemental list in the meantime.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> There's a form in the OP that automatically adds you to the owners' list. Is it not working? I'll add you to the supplemental list in the meantime.


I tried it a long ways back.. I will try again because obviously I have made a mistake









Thanks


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jocelyn*
> 
> Well, just got home from Newegg, here's my new Glacer 240L
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen/used an H220 in person, but from pictures it sure looks 99% identical to me.
> 
> Now to keep waiting for a good deal on a 4770k


Any updates?


----------



## Roger23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Hów are you planning to fit the 8 pin there, I might throw my R4 out because theres is just not enough room between the 8 pin and the rad, and i dont feel like drilling new holes ontop + washers.


No drilling is necessary. It will fit (losing 2 mount screws), but the cables are touching the body of the radiator. This is maybe a problem


----------



## delpy8

hi all,

At the moment I have my h320 on the top of my 900d pushing the air out of the case, Is this the best place for the radiator as by default the fans had been fiited to pull air in?

Not sure where is best for my raditor any suggestions welcome


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi all,
> 
> At the moment I have my h320 on the top of my 900d pushing the air out of the case, Is this the best place for the radiator as by default the fans had been fiited to pull air in?
> 
> Not sure where is best for my raditor any suggestions welcome


900D that is the only place that can fit without adding a 2nd reservoir and long tubes.
Going Push or Pull or P/P is how you want it.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks so push pull out of the top of case? How many degrees off will you get with 6 fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The temps will vary going P/P. Could be no difference or it can be 1,2,3... or more degree difference.

To be clear on how you have it mounted? The fill port is down or up, you want it facing up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Thanks so push pull out of the top of case? How many degrees off will you get with 6 fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The temps will vary going P/P. Could be no difference or it can be 1,2,3... or more degree difference.
> 
> To be clear on how you have it mounted? The fill port is down or up, you want it facing up.


with quality fans a very thin rad like this designed for quiet useage...... very very little, you would be lucky with 2 c

again to note i did say quality fan ( like the helix )


----------



## jimi977

just got my h220 today and have to replace it tom. one the fans makes a clicking sound when speeds go up.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> just got my h220 today and have to replace it tom. one the fans makes a clicking sound when speeds go up.


Well thankfully it sounds like just a single fan then aye.

Got my pump headed in for RMA, can't wait to get it back. Decided to cave in and buy a better complimentary radiator than a single thin 120mm. Planning on using my empty Arc Midi R2 once the pump is returned to rebuild my main rig. Once I see a good price for a 780 or 780Ti I'll drop it in to the loop and sell the 670.



Could I replace the current H220 radiator and go with no reservoir for 2 x 240mm radiators, gpu and a cpu block? or would the temps run a bit high with the non-excess of water?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Well thankfully it sounds like just a single fan then aye.
> 
> Got my pump headed in for RMA, can't wait to get it back. Decided to cave in and buy a better complimentary radiator than a single thin 120mm. Planning on using my empty Arc Midi R2 once the pump is returned to rebuild my main rig. Once I see a good price for a 780 or 780Ti I'll drop it in to the loop and sell the 670.
> 
> 
> 
> Could I replace the current H220 radiator and go with no reservoir for 2 x 240mm radiators, gpu and a cpu block? or would the temps run a bit high with the non-excess of water?


Without a reservoir how will you fill it and bleed it of air?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Without a reservoir how will you fill it and bleed it of air?


The Alphacool radiators have a 7th 1/4" port on the bottom of the other end that could be used for it. Might be tricky to do it but it may be viable if temperatures won't be affected drastically with the lack of the original 240mms radiator.

Edit: Might be only the UT60 and and Monsta that have them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The Alphacool radiators have a 7th 1/4" port on the bottom of the other end that could be used for it. Might be tricky to do it but it may be viable if temperatures won't be affected drastically with the lack of the original 240mms radiator.
> 
> Edit: Might be only the UT60 and and Monsta that have them.


I really don't recommend using a G 1/4 port to fill and bleed your loop. I think you'll find that this is going to be extremely difficult to do and you'll be better off by adding a reservoir.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The Alphacool radiators have a 7th 1/4" port on the bottom of the other end that could be used for it. Might be tricky to do it but it may be viable if temperatures won't be affected drastically with the lack of the original 240mms radiator.
> 
> Edit: Might be only the UT60 and and Monsta that have them.


you are right 60/monsta
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I really don't recommend using a G 1/4 port to fill and bleed your loop. I think you'll find that this is going to be extremely difficult to do and you'll be better off by adding a reservoir.


it is designed as a fill port to assist with filling large loops... still recommend a res though ...


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I really don't recommend using a G 1/4 port to fill and bleed your loop. I think you'll find that this is going to be extremely difficult to do and you'll be better off by adding a reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are right 60/monsta
> it is designed as a fill port to assist with filling large loops... still recommend a res though ...


Kk, I'll stick with the normal H220 radiator, it'll be a tight fit with the barbs almost in the optical bays but should be fine.


----------



## Swaggalot

Do you guys think a H220 alone without any additional radiator would be good enough to cool the AMD 290X and Intel 3570K for moderate overclocking???


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swaggalot*
> 
> Do you guys think a H220 alone without any additional radiator would be good enough to cool the AMD 290X and Intel 3570K for moderate overclocking???


Yep, with ease IMO.


----------



## Swaggalot

I was wondering if the NZXT phantom 630 will fit the 360mm radiator on H320 at the top without any problems.

Because in the Phantom 410, you cant fit the H220 at the top due one of the sides sticking out high.

I decided to go the H320 rather than H220, i think H320 will give me a much better temp with a GPU loop added.

Also i can follow this same GPU loop guide for the H320 right?? even though it's for H220, the only difference is the size of the radiator??


----------



## TheSocialHermit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swaggalot*
> 
> I was wondering if the NZXT phantom 630 will fit the 360mm radiator on H320 at the top without any problems.
> 
> Because in the Phantom 410, you cant fit the H220 at the top due one of the sides sticking out high.
> 
> I decided to go the H320 rather than H220, i think H320 will give me a much better temp with a GPU loop added.
> 
> Also i can follow this same GPU loop guide for the H320 right?? even though it's for H220, the only difference is the size of the radiator??


Yup, should work just the same.


----------



## Mega Man

yes your right


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swaggalot*
> 
> Do you guys think a H220 alone without any additional radiator would be good enough to cool the AMD 290X and Intel 3570K for moderate overclocking???


considering the 290x runs hot I'd recommend getting the h320 rather then the h220 it will give you more headroom to overclock


----------



## ez12a

I have 360mm worth of rad surface and it handles my 670 without raising temps for my CPU with everything at load compared to just a 240 and CPU.

Definitely go with at least 360 for a 290x.


----------



## Turt1e

Well my H220 died again today. The pump's been acting strange for a while now, and today it just stopped working. Took it off to see what happened and it smells like a burned pcb.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Well my H220 died again today. The pump's been acting strange for a while now, and today it just stopped working. Took it off to see what happened and it smells like a burned pcb.


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can help you get this issue resolved.


----------



## Gil80

Hi Guys,

Are you able to tell me if this noise could be due to a trapped air bubble? This is not the typical "sizzling bacon"







sound of air bubble.






It's connected the 8 PWM header form Swiftech and it doesn't matter if the pump is sideways or not.

Thanks


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Are you able to tell me if this noise could be due to a trapped air bubble? This is not the typical "sizzling bacon"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sound of air bubble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's connected the 8 PWM header form Swiftech and it doesn't matter if the pump is sideways or not.
> 
> Thanks


Same issue as mine , have it replaced.


----------



## Sprkd1

Any reviews on the Glacer 240L?


----------



## Avonosac

Bryan, have you guys been compiling an data on the people with repeated pump failures as far as PSU, motherboards, and bios versions are concerned?

I'm really thinking there has to be malfunctions outside of the H220 which are causing these electrical failures to happen repeatedly to the same owners.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Bryan, have you guys been compiling an data on the people with repeated pump failures as far as PSU, motherboards, and bios versions are concerned?
> 
> I'm really thinking there has to be malfunctions outside of the H220 which are causing these electrical failures to happen repeatedly to the same owners.


That may also translate that better electronics might be needed on the pump. On a side note a friend of mine has the same issue but only noticed it when he started running at 3k rpm. I suppose a lot of users are not running at max speed.


----------



## Sprkd1

How much of a difference in temps is there between a H220 and H20-X20 Elite?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> How much of a difference in temps is there between a H220 and H20-X20 Elite?


If it's not expanded and the same fluid is used, none.


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If it's not expanded and the same fluid is used, none.


Thanks. What if I add a single GTX TITAN in the loop?


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can help you get this issue resolved.


Sent you a PM


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Thanks. What if I add a single GTX TITAN in the loop?


Still won't change the results. Once you have "enough" flow, extra pump speed/flow will hardly change temps at all, if any. Maybe with two gpu blocks and an extra rad or so, flow would slow down enough with the H220 for the Elite kit to pull ahead in performance.


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Still won't change the results. Once you have "enough" flow, extra pump speed/flow will hardly change temps at all, if any. Maybe with two gpu blocks and an extra rad or so, flow would slow down enough with the H220 for the Elite kit to pull ahead in performance.


Thanks. This is the first time I'm researching water cooling so excuse my "noobness."

Will I get good temps with the Elite kit for an overclocked 3930K and a single overclocked GTX TITAN?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Thanks. This is the first time I'm researching water cooling so excuse my "noobness."
> 
> Will I get good temps with the Elite kit for an overclocked 3930K and a single overclocked GTX TITAN?


With that, you will want a 360 rad at least to get cooling done.


----------



## Mega Man

they make it in a 360 as well as a 240
http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Elite.aspx
also they make these kits which are great as well and around the same price [email protected]
http://www.swiftech.com/H20-220ultimaHDliquidcoolingkit.aspx
http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Edge-HD.aspx


----------



## bukojuice

Thanks Bryan.. got my replacement today. ^_^ will try to test the new one this evening..^_^


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If it's not expanded and the same fluid is used, none.


Does fluid make a difference with temps? If so what's the best fluid to get better cooling


----------



## Mega Man

yes it does HELP ( key word ) and water is king
basic good old store brand distilled water, i personally reccomend also adding biocide ( iandh deadwater or pt nuke {blue one not phn, as phn contains small amounts of chlorine, which even though small amounts, chlorine eats rubber } )

although some ppl use silver, it can react to nickle

http://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Since I'm on the Raven RV03, I'm very limited as to where I can put the radiator and I was thinking something like this where the tubing would be on top and the fill port on the bottom, and maybe have the res at the back of the case.
> 
> My first assumption for the loop would be RES > CPU > RAD.


Just for some Ideas since the talk of reservoirs has been going around...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Just for some Ideas since the talk of reservoirs has been going around...


What do you think of that norprene tubing and which brand of it are you using?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you think of that norprene tubing and which brand of it are you using?


Be honest, I love the tubing... its very flexible without collapsing. As well as just generally easy to work with, its great stuff. Let alone the fact you never have to worry about plasticizers.

I am using Tygon A-60-G Norprene:


Norprene-ChemicalTubingSpecifications


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys

Can I add a 2nd radiator to my h320 pump?
If so what parts would I need obviously tubing another radiator but not sure about the actual fittings


----------



## outofmyheadyo

yes you can, all you need is fittings, some hose, and a radiator + fans of your choice, fittings should have to be for 10/16mm (3/8" - 5/8") Tubing and you need 2 of them.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks for that anyone got pics or video of this being done


----------



## outofmyheadyo

is not a video of a rad expansion but its about adding a GPU but you should be able to apply the techniques to your rad expansion


----------



## delpy8

Are these the correct fittings?
2x1m tubing and am I right in saying 2 of the red fittings and more fluid

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-023-MO&groupid=962&catid=1529 http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-259-XS http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-104-PM


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Are these the correct fittings?
> 2x1m tubing and am I right in saying 2 of the red fittings and more fluid
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-023-MO&groupid=962&catid=1529 http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-259-XS http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-104-PM


Yes


----------



## delpy8

Cheers Phelan


----------



## Turt1e

Is the coolant used in the H220 non conductive?


----------



## Mega Man

basically even if it was, it would not matter, here is a good read for you !

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/


----------



## EarlZ

I got the replacement pump unit today, cant test it yet as my left arm is still in a cast due to broken bones. Kudos to bram and swiftech for the customer service!!


----------



## Gil80

Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?

I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...







I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?
> 
> I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


DON'T DO IT!!!







seriously though most antifreezes has extra ingredients that are caustic and will eat at the innards.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?
> 
> I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


From Aquacomputer's website

Even with pure copper circuits, the use of an additive is recommended because as other metals are used at the terminals as before. In addition, anti-corrosion additives a germicidal effect, reducing therefore have the risk of contamination of the water cooling by bacteria or algae. Suitable corrosion protection additive which is available in an aqua computer neutral color ACfluid, which must be mixed at a concentration of 2% to the cooling water is recommended ( Thus, for example, about 10ml to 500ml water ACfluid). Alternatively, you can also use car radiator antifreeze for aluminum engines. Aqua Computer has G11 (blue-green color) and G12 (pink) antifreeze to VW standard VW TL-774D-approved for use in their water cooling systems.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> From Aquacomputer's website
> 
> Even with pure copper circuits, the use of an additive is recommended because as other metals are used at the terminals as before. In addition, anti-corrosion additives a germicidal effect, reducing therefore have the risk of contamination of the water cooling by bacteria or algae. Suitable corrosion protection additive which is available in an aqua computer neutral color ACfluid, which must be mixed at a concentration of 2% to the cooling water is recommended ( Thus, for example, about 10ml to 500ml water ACfluid). Alternatively, you can also use car radiator antifreeze for aluminum engines. Aqua Computer has G11 (blue-green color) and G12 (pink) antifreeze to VW standard VW TL-774D-approved for use in their water cooling systems.


These being the exception to my comment above, which you ninja'd behind me







.


----------



## sdmf74

what size screws do i need to mount swiftech h220 radiator and gentle typhoon fans to the top of case (corsair 750d)???


----------



## TheSocialHermit

Just got my Swiftech H220 in from NCIX







Only waiting on the EVGA 750W PSU to put everything back together. This thing is pretty heavy but has that "well-built feel" to it with that weight.


----------



## BroJin

Where can I get one in the US?







Missed out on it


----------



## gdubc

Ncix.ca had them but now it would just be easier to get the coolermaster revision. A little cheaper probably and all the latest improvements like a stronger pump and sata power.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> what size screws do i need to mount swiftech h220 radiator and gentle typhoon fans to the top of case (corsair 750d)???


You'll need #6-32 x 1-1/4 screws. Most hardware stores carry these. That said, you should have everything you need with the H220...I was even able to mount a second set of fans on mine with the included hardware.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSocialHermit*
> 
> Just got my Swiftech H220 in from NCIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only waiting on the EVGA 750W PSU to put everything back together. *This thing is pretty heavy but has that "well-built feel" to it with that weight.*


Yeah I thought the same thing about mine as well...compared to some of the CLC coolers I've had, this certainly has some weight to it.


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ncix.ca had them but now it would just be easier to get the coolermaster revision. A little cheaper probably and all the latest improvements like a stronger pump and sata power.


Where do they sell the CoolMaster version? can't find them.. + rep!!!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Where do they sell the CoolMaster version? can't find them.. + rep!!!


You can use CanadaComputers here if you're in Canada and Newegg here if in the US

Edit: Wrong product, looking around for it, may be a bit, looks like the majority of the stores only carry the Eisberg units in Canada aside from NCIX which is backordered.


----------



## gdubc

*Here* is coolermasters.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yeah I thought the same thing about mine as well...compared to some of the CLC coolers I've had, this certainly has some weight to it.


It's because of the copper and brass construction (copper channels and shell, brass fins), and especially that it holds much more water.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Just for some Ideas since the talk of reservoirs has been going around...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet setup there, the neoprene tube looks good and yes definitely an idea I can use. How did you mount the H220 to the 180 though? How are your temps though? I'm planning to expand to my GPU as well in the future, so I'm thinking another 120mm rad should be enough.


----------



## BroJin

Currently using a Corsair h100 and it really works well cooling my i3570k. Even at 4.5Ghz it keep it low 70's c full load.








Since I'm planning on getting a R290x w/water block, should I get another radiator since R290x get really hot?
Need to retire my CF 6950's because it struggles at 1440p.


----------



## gdubc

I would say you would for sure want to. With two components in a loop you should run at least 3x120 worth of rad.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Currently using a Corsair h100 and it really works well cooling my i3570k. Even at 4.5Ghz it keep it low 70's c full load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm planning on getting a R290x w/water block, should I get another radiator since R290x get really hot?
> Need to retire my CF 6950's because it struggles at 1440p.


70c is not so good.
You will need a 360 rad at least for 3570k+290x


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?
> 
> I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


This is not advisable. These coolants aren't designed for PC water cooling and can actually eat at the metals within the system. I would recommend using distilled water or our HydrX coolant in these kits. I think I responded to your emails this morning. We're closed on the weekends.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?
> 
> I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


Oh no do not use. The H220/H320 already comes with Swiftech Hydrx PM2 coolant. If you want more, they are cheap to get, about $5 a bottle.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> Sweet setup there, the neoprene tube looks good and yes definitely an idea I can use. How did you mount the H220 to the 180 though? How are your temps though? I'm planning to expand to my GPU as well in the future, so I'm thinking another 120mm rad should be enough.


I mounted the rad to the 180's with the included "feet" that cam with the case for rad mounting. My temps are excellent ~52c at full tilit with 4.75ghz @ 1.525v actual voltage. SO the H220 has plenty of room. I added the res as a means to keep the bubbles at bay while the rad is mounted lower than the pump. Having had this H220 since launch and one of the first units... I've not had a problem one with it, (except maybe the extreme patience needed to get the system to bleed proper since I also have the original impeller design).

All is good and can honestly say its been the best cooling purchase I've ever made.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Currently using a Corsair h100 and it really works well cooling my i3570k. Even at 4.5Ghz it keep it low 70's c full load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm planning on getting a R290x w/water block, should I get another radiator since R290x get really hot?
> Need to retire my CF 6950's because it struggles at 1440p.


Depends on what your plans are as far as overclocking, and what you consider acceptable temps. Yes the 290X runs hot, but also has a much larger surface area to dissipate the heat through the copper block, even more so since it's a large die. Contrary to popular belief here in this thread, the supplied rad is plenty to keep both the cpu and a gpu cool in most instances, especially 1155/1150 socket CPUs since the block is convex the fit snug on them. Gabe ran a 3770K @4.5 ghz and TWO 680s in the same loop with JUST the H220 rad and push fans, and kept everything under 81*C when gaming. Another user here had 3 670s and the CPU all in the same loop with just the H220 rad, but used a D5 pump to increase flow, and maxed the GPUs at 67*C in stress testing. So it just depends on what kind of temps you're looking for. As far as "useable", the stock rad is plenty.


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Depends on what your plans are as far as overclocking, and what you consider acceptable temps. Yes the 290X runs hot, but also has a much larger surface area to dissipate the heat through the copper block, even more so since it's a large die. Contrary to popular belief here in this thread, the supplied rad is plenty to keep both the cpu and a gpu cool in most instances, especially 1155/1150 socket CPUs since the block is convex the fit snug on them. Gabe ran a 3770K @4.5 ghz and TWO 680s in the same loop with JUST the H220 rad and push fans, and kept everything under 81*C when gaming. Another user here had 3 670s and the CPU all in the same loop with just the H220 rad, but used a D5 pump to increase flow, and maxed the GPUs at 67*C in stress testing. So it just depends on what kind of temps you're looking for. As far as "useable", the stock rad is plenty.


Thanks for the heads up. Hoping to clock my i3570k at 4.5Ghz and dual r290x mild over clock at under 70's c. So a faster flow pump and a push and pull setup should work.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. Hoping to clock my i3570k at 4.5Ghz and dual r290x mild over clock at under 70's c. So a faster flow pump and a push and pull setup should work.


R9 290x is a much hotter card than GTX 680.
Push/Pull does little to a slim rad with low FPI.
Comparing a GTX 680 to a R9 290x is not the same.
GTX 680 is 195w TDP
R9 290x is 300w TDP

Going with a larger rad is more important. 360 is what you want to look at.
120mm per block is the ideal setup.


----------



## jimi977

i have a problem with my fan pins(z87x-ud4h f7 bios)... i have a swiftech h220 and plugged the pump to the cpu fan header and plugged both fans to the system fan header 1 using the 8 way pwm splitter. my problem is that the pump does not work, but if i plug the pump to with the splitter together with both fans in the cpu fan header, everything works fine. i just wanted to separate the pump and fans so could see the speed of both..


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I mounted the rad to the 180's with the included "feet" that cam with the case for rad mounting. My temps are excellent ~52c at full tilit with 4.75ghz @ 1.525v actual voltage. SO the H220 has plenty of room. I added the res as a means to keep the bubbles at bay while the rad is mounted lower than the pump. Having had this H220 since launch and one of the first units... I've not had a problem one with it, (except maybe the extreme patience needed to get the system to bleed proper since I also have the original impeller design).
> 
> All is good and can honestly say its been the best cooling purchase I've ever made.


Great! Thanks for all the info, I'll have to check around if I can get a set of the feet then.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> R9 290x is a much hotter card than GTX 680.
> Push/Pull does little to a slim rad with low FPI.
> Comparing a GTX 680 to a R9 290x is not the same.
> GTX 680 is 195w TDP
> R9 290x is 300w TDP
> 
> Going with a larger rad is more important. 360 is what you want to look at.
> 120mm per block is the ideal setup.


Yes but I'm comparing a 290X to TWO 680s together... So it is a fair comparison







.

EDIT- I just noticed he said two 290X in that last post, so you're right. I thought he was asking about a single 290X, which the H220 could handle.


----------



## selk22

Well I also am planning to cool a 290x and a 3930k at 4.6 1.32 and am concerned about the h220 pump..

I have heard some reports that it is strong enough to move the water in the loop yes but its not nearly as strong as a stand alone pump? Some people reported a 20c difference when using a different pump, but IDK if I believe that.

Any thoughts? Perhaps they didn't have the pump at full Rpms?

Anyway this is my plan for expansion.. Just sold my GTX 580 so I will be buying the parts soon.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15684/ex-res-359/Aquacomputer_Aquabox_Professional_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Black_Delrin.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank 50$

http://www.swiftech.com/truflextubing.aspx 8$

http://www.swiftech.com/Helix140mmfan.aspx 11$

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16094/ex-rad-403/Swiftech_MCRx40_Quiet_Power_Single_140mm_Radiator_-_Black_MCR140-QP.html?tl=g30c95s929#blank 50$

http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-lokseal-compression-fitting.aspx x6 30$

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21663/ex-blc-1567/EK_Radeon_R9-290X_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC_R9-290X_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c309s2073 120$



Should I instead buy a pump/res combo and add a 2nd pump to the loop?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it ok to use regular car radiator coolant in PC water cooling systems?
> 
> I'm still waiting for someone from Swiftech to reply to my issues with the pump noise...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a great cooler and I just want it to work silently on its high RPM


is it possible, yes, when pc water cooling was diy alot of ppl did it. should you.. no why would you when distilled is just ~$1 in the us.... biocide is ~ 5 for a bottle that will last years.... or you can use a kill coil if you want....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Where can I get one in the US?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missed out on it


ncix / cm counterpart
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> i have a problem with my fan pins(z87x-ud4h f7 bios)... i have a swiftech h220 and plugged the pump to the cpu fan header and plugged both fans to the system fan header 1 using the 8 way pwm splitter. my problem is that the pump does not work, but if i plug the pump to with the splitter together with both fans in the cpu fan header, everything works fine. i just wanted to separate the pump and fans so could see the speed of both..


sounds like your mobo is using voltage to control it and not pwm ??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well I also am planning to cool a 290x and a 3930k at 4.6 1.32 and am concerned about the h220 pump..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have heard some reports that it is strong enough to move the water in the loop yes but its not nearly as strong as a stand alone pump? Some people reported a 20c difference when using a different pump, but IDK if I believe that.
> 
> Any thoughts? Perhaps they didn't have the pump at full Rpms?
> 
> Anyway this is my plan for expansion.. Just sold my GTX 580 so I will be buying the parts soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15684/ex-res-359/Aquacomputer_Aquabox_Professional_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Black_Delrin.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank 50$
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/truflextubing.aspx 8$
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/Helix140mmfan.aspx 11$
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16094/ex-rad-403/Swiftech_MCRx40_Quiet_Power_Single_140mm_Radiator_-_Black_MCR140-QP.html?tl=g30c95s929#blank 50$
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-lokseal-compression-fitting.aspx x6 30$
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21663/ex-blc-1567/EK_Radeon_R9-290X_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_EK-FC_R9-290X_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g30c309s2073 120$
> 
> 
> 
> Should I instead buy a pump/res combo and add a 2nd pump to the loop?


1 afaik dont mix different brands of pumps, i could be wrong,

2 most user a h220 pump is really all you need, there are some exceptions. like my loop where i need a ton of pressure to push through 4 gpu blocks in parallel but for the average user h220 pump is fine, also you need to look into serial vs parallel and mixed loops, best explanation ironically i have found is here

there is a point where a pumps usefulness drops off with more flow, which is one reason gabe stopped it at 3000 rpm. only in special instances will you use the extra power. you can read up more @ martinsliquidlab.org

for anyone wondering about anything water cooling but not knowing anything about it, i highly reccomend that site, very very detailed and really one of the only reviewers i trust when it comes to watercooling. 99% of the misc and some of the fans reviews are really good info for anyone getting into watercooling for the first time


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> i have a problem with my fan pins(z87x-ud4h f7 bios)... i have a swiftech h220 and plugged the pump to the cpu fan header and plugged both fans to the system fan header 1 using the 8 way pwm splitter. my problem is that the pump does not work, but if i plug the pump to with the splitter together with both fans in the cpu fan header, everything works fine. i just wanted to separate the pump and fans so could see the speed of both..


When you have everything running off of the splitter, what channel do you have the pump plugged into and what speed is your motherboard giving you? Check and make sure that you have the pump plugged into channel 1 on the splitter when you have it configured that way. Let me know what you find so that I can help you determine what the issues is.


----------



## jimi977

the pump is running at channel1.I have no problems with the splitter.the problems start when i dont use it... i wanted to plug the fans to the sys fan and leave plug the pump directly to the cpufan to separate the readings... i think the problem is gigabyte fan control


----------



## Snyderman34

Here's a question I haven't seen asked. Is anyone using a bay res for their H220? I'm getting my upgrade list together and would like to expand (one GPU, Phobya 200mm rad), but I'm concerned about refilling the loop. Would using a bay res in my 600T (top 2 bays) work ok?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> the pump is running at channel1.I have no problems with the splitter.the problems start when i dont use it... i wanted to plug the fans to the sys fan and leave plug the pump directly to the cpufan to separate the readings... i think the problem is gigabyte fan control


I would have to agree. It appears that it doesn't use PWM at all and that it also isn't able to supply enough power to the pump. That is very strange. I would contact their tech support and see what they have to say. It could be a defective board.


----------



## EarlZ

I noticed a lot of white small particles on the h220 tubing... i cant really get them of even by flushing with water, anyone know if its a requirement to clean them ??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> the pump is running at channel1.I have no problems with the splitter.the problems start when i dont use it... i wanted to plug the fans to the sys fan and leave plug the pump directly to the cpufan to separate the readings... i think the problem is gigabyte fan control


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would have to agree. It appears that it doesn't use PWM at all and that it also isn't able to supply enough power to the pump. That is very strange. I would contact their tech support and see what they have to say. It could be a defective board.


some bios alow you to chose between auto-pwm or voltage controlled as well


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I noticed a lot of white small particles on the h220 tubing... i cant really get them of even by flushing with water, anyone know if its a requirement to clean them ??


welcome to the world of plasticizer. it only becomes a problem after a really extended period of time dependent on how much plasticizer leeches into the loop and if it clogs up at like a block or bend causing restriction. its generally caused by warm water interacting with the materials in the tubing. tis one of the reasons why acryllic tubing/tygon started to slightly increase in popularity in the past few months I think.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some bios alow you to chose between auto-pwm or voltage controlled as well


The options in the BIOS might be confusing as well. On ASUS Z87 mobo I had to research to find that when "Q-Fan" setting for CPU_FAN is "Auto" = it will be PWM, and "Advanced" = detect if PWM or Voltage plug is on header, but on "Advanced" the minimum PWM speed is 60%.

Unrelated: H320 is going perfect, really quiet (4670K @ 1.264 vcore) even though the top of the case where it's installed is very open and right next to me. Going to get some more intake fans for case (Switch 810) then flip the H320 fans to pull/exhaust - and maybe add waterblock for my GTX 680 if I can build up the courage to mess with WC in a PC I can't afford to replace :>


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I noticed a lot of white small particles on the h220 tubing... i cant really get them of even by flushing with water, anyone know if its a requirement to clean them ??
> 
> 
> 
> welcome to the world of plasticizer. it only becomes a problem after a really extended period of time dependent on how much plasticizer leeches into the loop and if it clogs up at like a block or bend causing restriction. its generally caused by warm water interacting with the materials in the tubing. tis one of the reasons why acryllic tubing/tygon started to slightly increase in popularity in the past few months I think.
Click to expand...

Ah i thought the stock tubes were immune/resistant to them. though wiping off with a cotton swap eaily removes it but i dont have a swap or stick that is longer than the tube.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Here's a question I haven't seen asked. Is anyone using a bay res for their H220? I'm getting my upgrade list together and would like to expand (one GPU, Phobya 200mm rad), but I'm concerned about refilling the loop. Would using a bay res in my 600T (top 2 bays) work ok?


From what I've read and have been told by others is that another reservoir would work with the H220 especially in cases wherein (1) the radiator/reservoir orientation would leave it in an awkward position making it hard to be able to bleed out the air bubbles and (2) to be able to top off the loop if you are unable to reach the fill port.

I recently asked that question here and got great answers as well, if you want, you can check out this post for an image of the setup.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> The options in the BIOS might be confusing as well. On ASUS Z87 mobo I had to research to find that when "Q-Fan" setting for CPU_FAN is "Auto" = it will be PWM, and "Advanced" = detect if PWM or Voltage plug is on header, but on "Advanced" the minimum PWM speed is 60%.


An "advanced" setting that only goes to 60% on pwm doesn't seem to be too advanced to me. My guess is its still using voltage not true pwm. Raja @ Asus has stated that the only pwm headers on Asus boards are cpu and cpu_opt.


----------



## Heddem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jedi304*
> 
> From what I've read and have been told by others is that another reservoir would work with the H220 especially in cases wherein (1) the radiator/reservoir orientation would leave it in an awkward position making it hard to be able to bleed out the air bubbles and (2) to be able to top off the loop if you are unable to reach the fill port.
> 
> I recently asked that question here and got great answers as well, if you want, you can check out this post for an image of the setup.


Actually I'm interested in a bay res as well. Which one do you suggest that can fit in 2x 5,25" bays in a Fractal Design R4?
As my kit is currently being RMA-ed, I was looking for ways to expand. i.e have the GPU cooled as well and add a res and a 280mm rad.

I bought the H220 kit a couple of months after I added a custom AIO Antec 620kit +bracket to the GPU to quiet down my Evga 670 FTW (reference cooler +noise







). So basically running 2 pumps and 2 rads. Ideally I'd like to replace the Antec kit and get a WC block for the 670gtx (680 reference pcb design)
my setup:
case Fractal design R4
cpu Intel 4770k running @ 4.6Ghz 1.26v
gpu Evga 670gtx FTW running OC @ 1306core 1750mem /w Antec 620 push/pull Noctua P12 120mm fans (7v or when gaming 12v-> too noisy)
My gaming rig is in my living room, so rather not bother the mrs too much with noise of the fans while she's watching her favorite show









My thoughts on the setup:
- Top: H220 radiator + stock fans
- Front: 280mm (by modding the front slightly (as described in: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/775-diy-case-mod-guide-280-radiator-in-fractal-design-r4/ )
- bay res in top 2x 5,25inch bay
- I also have my drive cage mounted away from the front it holds some oldskool HDDs' in raid0. Plus mounted a SSD behind the motherboard. So the 280mm radiator plus stock fractal design case fans can be used.

I have seen some bay reservoirs, but they vary in price or have like a section for a pump, which i don't need.

I'd like your thoughts on:
what would be a decent reservoir for my setup?
any suggestions for a 280mm rad in combination with the H220?
decent full WC block for the Evga 670/680?
I think it wouldn't hurt to have enough rad space for any future builds/additional gfx card or is having 240mm and 280mm overkill?

Your input is much appreciated


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heddem*
> 
> my setup:
> case Fractal design R4
> cpu Intel 4770k running @ 4.6Ghz 1.26v
> gpu Evga 670gtx FTW running OC @ 1306core 1750mem /w Antec 620 push/pull Noctua P12 120mm fans:


]

Nice OC on the Haswell!! Which motherboard are you using?

Thanks,
Mike


----------



## Heddem

Thanks








Msi Z87-G45 nothing too fancy. It does the job well.


----------



## jibatron

Just pre-ordered a H320 for a 1100T with a Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z mobo (I REALLY hope it is compatible....) and HAF-X case. Apparently theres modification being done to the pump? is this true? hopefully its for the better







NCIX Canada says it should ship around oct 15


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Just pre-ordered a H320 for a 1100T with a Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z mobo (I REALLY hope it is compatible....) and HAF-X case. Apparently theres modification being done to the pump? is this true? hopefully its for the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NCIX Canada says it should ship around oct 15


Only issue with HAF X case is the mounting. There is only 4 screw spots, which is not very secure and has vibrations with it.
NCIX is Nov 15th and that is not guaranteed.
As seen here on how a 360 rad is mounted.


----------



## EarlZ

so i got my replacement pump the other day and tried it today at first it didnt power up no matter what i did and after opening it up and manually spinning the impeller it started to work properly. finished bleeding the loop in just 15mins but i noticed the motor noise in this new pump is louder than the last 2, not that much of a big deal but its a bit surprising how much each motor varries. currently still running it with the fill port open ang changing speeds from time to time via speed fan.


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heddem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I'm interested in a bay res as well. Which one do you suggest that can fit in 2x 5,25" bays in a Fractal Design R4?
> As my kit is currently being RMA-ed, I was looking for ways to expand. i.e have the GPU cooled as well and add a res and a 280mm rad.
> 
> I bought the H220 kit a couple of months after I added a custom AIO Antec 620kit +bracket to the GPU to quiet down my Evga 670 FTW (reference cooler +noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). So basically running 2 pumps and 2 rads. Ideally I'd like to replace the Antec kit and get a WC block for the 670gtx (680 reference pcb design)
> my setup:
> case Fractal design R4
> cpu Intel 4770k running @ 4.6Ghz 1.26v
> gpu Evga 670gtx FTW running OC @ 1306core 1750mem /w Antec 620 push/pull Noctua P12 120mm fans (7v or when gaming 12v-> too noisy)
> My gaming rig is in my living room, so rather not bother the mrs too much with noise of the fans while she's watching her favorite show
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts on the setup:
> - Top: H220 radiator + stock fans
> - Front: 280mm (by modding the front slightly (as described in: http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/775-diy-case-mod-guide-280-radiator-in-fractal-design-r4/ )
> - bay res in top 2x 5,25inch bay
> - I also have my drive cage mounted away from the front it holds some oldskool HDDs' in raid0. Plus mounted a SSD behind the motherboard. So the 280mm radiator plus stock fractal design case fans can be used.
> 
> I have seen some bay reservoirs, but they vary in price or have like a section for a pump, which i don't need.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like your thoughts on:
> what would be a decent reservoir for my setup?
> 
> There's really many to mention but what would be more common would probably those from Swiftech, they do have bay reservoirs that do not have placements for pumps. Best to check here
> 
> any suggestions for a 280mm rad in combination with the H220?
> 
> Alphacool would be a good choice
> 
> decent full WC block for the Evga 670/680?
> 
> Checkout EK Cooling Configurator
> 
> I think it wouldn't hurt to have enough rad space for any future builds/additional gfx card or is having 240mm and 280mm overkill?
> 
> If you have the space and the budget, it really never hurts to go over a bit.
> 
> Your input is much appreciated


----------



## delpy8

Hi again

Can some one confirm that the h320 pump and water block will have enough power for a 480mm radiator


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi again
> 
> Can some one confirm that the h320 pump and water block will have enough power for a 480mm radiator


Yes, this pump does have enough power to add a 4 x 120mm fan radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only issue with HAF X case is the mounting. There is only 4 screw spots, which is not very secure and has vibrations with it.
> NCIX is Nov 15th and that is not guaranteed.
> As seen here on how a 360 rad is mounted.


What you need to do to make the radiator fit secure is put your fans on the top of it. This will basically sandwich the top of the case between the fans and the radiator. Even though there are only four mounting holes that will actually be holding up the radiator, having the fans mounted on top will give it more security and strength.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Any idea where I can buy the helix 120mm pwm fans in the UK

Thanks


----------



## mongomunken

I just got my H220 and wanted to test how much noise it generates. I was somewhat surprised by the pump noise.

I connected the pump to the PWM splitter, the PWM splitter to my my PSU via sata, and fake started the PSU.
So I'm guessing it's running at 100% speed, and it's a bit loud. I'm new to watercooling. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100%, like my GPU, which runs at 30% mostly?
This is the noise recorded with my mic right by the pump (disregard the white noise):
http://vocaroo.com/i/s055b76mcXZ3
There was also lower a high pitched sound the mic didn't pick up

Should I be worried? Will it go away after I've used it a while, or are they supposed to sound like this?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> I just got my H220 and wanted to test how much noise it generates. I was somewhat surprised by the pump noise.
> 
> I connected the pump to the PWM splitter, the PWM splitter to my my PSU via sata, and fake started the PSU.
> So I'm guessing it's running at 100% speed, and it's a bit loud. I'm new to watercooling. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100%, like my GPU, which runs at 30% mostly?
> This is the noise recorded with my mic right by the pump (disregard the white noise):
> http://vocaroo.com/i/s055b76mcXZ3
> There was also lower a high pitched sound the mic didn't pick up
> 
> Should I be worried? Will it go away after I've used it a while, or are they supposed to sound like this?


You can adjust the pump speed via PWM header of your Mobo with software like SpeedFan.


----------



## mongomunken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can adjust the pump speed via PWM header of your Mobo with software like SpeedFan.


I was guessing that was the case. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100% though?

I'm just worried there is something wrong with it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> I just got my H220 and wanted to test how much noise it generates. I was somewhat surprised by the pump noise.
> 
> I connected the pump to the PWM splitter, the PWM splitter to my my PSU via sata, and fake started the PSU.
> So I'm guessing it's running at 100% speed, and it's a bit loud. I'm new to watercooling. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100%, like my GPU, which runs at 30% mostly?
> This is the noise recorded with my mic right by the pump (disregard the white noise):
> http://vocaroo.com/i/s055b76mcXZ3
> There was also lower a high pitched sound the mic didn't pick up
> 
> Should I be worried? Will it go away after I've used it a while, or are they supposed to sound like this?


Was the pump sitting on the floor or some other surface while testing? Have you tried lifting it up? Did the noise change? If so is a matter of coupling/decoupling. If not might be you need to bleed it a little bit (see instruction in the OP of this thread).

Good luck

EDIT - even the pump running a 100% should be really quiet and yes you can control it via PWM and adjust its rpm.


----------



## ez12a

i like the updated design of the Glacer, eliminates the possibility of voltage modulation the h220 may have suffered from.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can adjust the pump speed via PWM header of your Mobo with software like SpeedFan.
> 
> 
> 
> I was guessing that was the case. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100% though?
> 
> I'm just worried there is something wrong with it.
Click to expand...

The pump is PWM and do not need to run at 100%. You can adjust it to make it run quiet or give higher performance.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> I just got my H220 and wanted to test how much noise it generates. I was somewhat surprised by the pump noise.
> 
> I connected the pump to the PWM splitter, the PWM splitter to my my PSU via sata, and fake started the PSU.
> So I'm guessing it's running at 100% speed, and it's a bit loud. I'm new to watercooling. Is the pump not supposed to run at 100%, like my GPU, which runs at 30% mostly?
> This is the noise recorded with my mic right by the pump (disregard the white noise):
> http://vocaroo.com/i/s055b76mcXZ3
> There was also lower a high pitched sound the mic didn't pick up
> 
> Should I be worried? Will it go away after I've used it a while, or are they supposed to sound like this?


I've been working with these kits for a while now, and at full speed some of these pumps are a little noisier than others. That's to be expected from a mass-produced product of this kind. These pumps also don't need to run at 100%. That's particularly true if you're only cooling your CPU. Please let me know if you have any issues though with this kit.


----------



## mongomunken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Was the pump sitting on the floor or some other surface while testing? Have you tried lifting it up? Did the noise change? If so is a matter of coupling/decoupling. If not might be you need to bleed it a little bit (see instruction in the OP of this thread).
> 
> Good luck
> 
> EDIT - even the pump running a 100% should be really quiet and yes you can control it via PWM and adjust its rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The pump is PWM and do not need to run at 100%. You can adjust it to make it run quiet or give higher performance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've been working with these kits for a while now, and at full speed some of these pumps are a little noisier than others. That's to be expected from a mass-produced product of this kind. These pumps also don't need to run at 100%. That's particularly true if you're only cooling your CPU. Please let me know if you have any issues though with this kit.


First off, thanks for all the quick responses.
I tried lifting the pump, and the sound did not change. I also tried tilting the pump and move it around to try get out air.

That doesn't matter anymore though.
Either the pump died or it went dead quiet. I turned it on and off 3 times, and the third time it was dead silent.
(It's not the PWM splitter or PSU, fans work on the same connector)
It's completely inaudible. I guess it's dead, and I'll have to send a RMA. I'll try connecting it to a motherboard first though and see what speed it reports. (If it reports anything?)

Before it died I made a recording of how it sounds when starting:
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1Yoxhf0FHAm

edit: I want to add, it vibrated a good bit (when it was working). The vibrations were strong enough I could feel them through the table the pump was sitting on. (this might be normal, I don't know)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> First off, thanks for all the quick responses.
> I tried lifting the pump, and the sound did not change. I also tried tilting the pump and move it around to try get out air.
> 
> That doesn't matter anymore though.
> Either the pump died or it went dead quiet. I turned it on and off 3 times, and the third time it was dead silent.
> (It's not the PWM splitter or PSU, fans work on the same connector)
> It's completely inaudible. I guess it's dead, and I'll have to send a RMA. I'll try connecting it to a motherboard first though and see what speed it reports. (If it reports anything?)
> 
> Before it died I made a recording of how it sounds when starting:
> http://vocaroo.com/i/s1Yoxhf0FHAm
> 
> edit: I want to add, it vibrated a good bit (when it was working). The vibrations were strong enough I could feel them through the table the pump was sitting on. (this might be normal, I don't know)


Can you do me a favor and try shaking the pump a little to see if it starts up again. It could be that air in the pump caused it to seize up. That would also account for the vibrations and noise that it was causing.


----------



## mongomunken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you do me a favor and try shaking the pump a little to see if it starts up again. It could be that air in the pump caused it to seize up. That would also account for the vibrations and noise that it was causing.


Woop - that started it! The noise is back. So this means there's most likely air bubbles causing the problems?
I guess I'll try tilting it around for a while again then.

I'm planning on extending the loop (and thus refilling it anyway) when I get the rest of my parts; I just want to be sure this thing isn't broken.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mongomunken*
> 
> Woop - that started it! The noise is back. So this means there's most likely air bubbles causing the problems?
> I guess I'll try tilting it around for a while again then.
> 
> I'm planning on extending the loop (and thus refilling it anyway) when I get the rest of my parts; I just want to be sure this thing isn't broken.


PM me before you refill it and I'll help with a way to do so that prevents the pump from sucking air into it while you're bleeding the loop. I think most likely it's an air bubble in the pump that's causing your problem.


----------



## mongomunken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> PM me before you refill it and I'll help with a way to do so that prevents the pump from sucking air into it while you're bleeding the loop. I think most likely it's an air bubble in the pump that's causing your problem.


Cool, thanks! (pun not intended)


----------



## jibatron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Only issue with HAF X case is the mounting. There is only 4 screw spots, which is not very secure and has vibrations with it.
> NCIX is Nov 15th and that is not guaranteed.
> As seen here on how a 360 rad is mounted.


Yes November 15. Brain fart on my part and I can always drill 2 more holes to make it 6 screws


----------



## outofmyheadyo

If you are having vibrations you can always add some rubber washers, I added some to all my fans in my case and it really helpe


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Yes November 15. Brain fart on my part and I can always drill 2 more holes to make it 6 screws


There is no where to drill any holes.
As Brian mention mount rad and fan in between the metal bars to have a tighter secure mount.
The yellow is the only mounting points. As you can see how 3 fans will fit.
The yellow circles you will want to use the long screws and other spot the short screws.


----------



## Mr Mari0o

is cooler master going to release a version of the H320?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Mari0o*
> 
> is cooler master going to release a version of the H320?


Once the first phase of CM to have the H220 in, you should see the Swiftech H320 version for CM.


----------



## bukojuice

just want to ask your opinion..do i have the right orientation..loop...thanks.











Just a quick question. They are saying that the pump will never last long. or will die overtime if have this kind of orientation..is this correct? are they true?


----------



## selk22

Just ordered

Swiftech Blue HydrX-PM2 Coolant - Premix (16 fl oz.) 2
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Single 140mm Radiator 1
Swiftech Helix 140mm x 25mm Z-Bearing Fan - 1500 RPM 1
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - Elegant White 7feet
Swiftech Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting G1/4 Thread - 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD - Black x4

Pretty excited to expand this h220..

Ordering the GPU block for the 290x next month


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> just want to ask your opinion..do i have the right orientation..loop...thanks.






That is my plan for flow direction.. It seems good to me!

Just ordered

Swiftech Blue HydrX-PM2 Coolant - Premix (16 fl oz.) 2
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Single 140mm Radiator 1
Swiftech Helix 140mm x 25mm Z-Bearing Fan - 1500 RPM 1
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD - Elegant White 7feet
Swiftech Lok-Seal™ Compression Fitting G1/4 Thread - 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD - Black x4

Pretty excited to expand this h220..

Ordering the GPU block for the 290x next month

Double post please delete....


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> just want to ask your opinion..do i have the right orientation..loop...thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks about right, as long as you have a reservoir going directly to the pump, the other parts of the loop don't matter.

Nice name by the way.


----------



## three6

Finally got mine working properly after the 1st pump died and the 2nd was DOA. 3 rd times the charm. Swiftech's customers service is pretty darn good tho.


----------



## Playerxl

Finally received my order!

HAF 932 Advanced
Swiftech H320
EK GTX 670 Waterblock + Backplate

ASUS GTX 670 + waterblock and blackplate will arrive next week (for SLI setup)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How are the temps ?


----------



## Playerxl

10 degrees lower than before!









so around 25 idle... don't had any time to stress test it yet, finished with building the PC around 4:00 in the morning.. and had to leave 7:00 for work..









But I'll keep you posted!


----------



## Furobins

My second H220 seems to have died yesterday. After receiving the RMA, I installed and things were working great. Then yesterday my PC would boot with CPU fan errors, though eventually it seems like the pump would start up. Then it died completely. I've tried tilting the radiator, topping off with DI water, even plugging it in two other motherboards, with no success.

I really want to like this product, but it's beginning to cause more headaches than it should. Went back to my Scythe Mugen for now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furobins*
> 
> My second H220 seems to have died yesterday. After receiving the RMA, I installed and things were working great. Then yesterday my PC would boot with CPU fan errors, though eventually it seems like the pump would start up. Then it died completely. I've tried tilting the radiator, topping off with DI water, even plugging it in two other motherboards, with no success.
> 
> I really want to like this product, but it's beginning to cause more headaches than it should. Went back to my Scythe Mugen for now.


Can you please PM me about this so I can help you get this issue resolved.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Sooooo....

I used to sub to this when I was going to get an H200 back before it even released, then I went full custom, then a bunch of other stuff, now two rigs later I have need for this again, so here I am...

And I ordered my new CM Glacier 240L from Newegg today!!!

Anyone got tips on fans? The stock good, or no? What are they, pinout wise?
I'f I wanna go with my own, and in push / pull, what's going to need to be the connector / power type I go for?

Thanks - T


----------



## gdubc

Not many here have that version yet and I haven't seen anything by way of a review from the person who had one. Maybe you can put something up when able?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Sooooo....
> 
> I used to sub to this when I was going to get an H200 back before it even released, then I went full custom, then a bunch of other stuff, now two rigs later I have need for this again, so here I am...
> 
> And I ordered my new CM Glacier 240L from Newegg today!!!
> 
> Anyone got tips on fans? The stock good, or no? What are they, pinout wise?
> I'f I wanna go with my own, and in push / pull, what's going to need to be the connector / power type I go for?
> 
> Thanks - T


The stock fans are quite good, but they're a little noisier than our Helix. I believe they're also PWM fans so the pinout will be in line with a standard PWM fan. They're Cooler Master's Blade Master fans that run from about 1900 to 2400 RPM.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The stock fans are quite good, but they're a little noisier than our Helix. I believe they're also PWM fans so the pinout will be in line with a standard PWM fan. They're Cooler Master's Blade Master fans that run from about 1900 to 2400 RPM.


Appreciate it Bram!

I'm going to run with what comes onboard for a bit, do some listening, etc, then work from there. It's going to go in the front flex bay of a CaseLabs S3, so I want to have something that I can make look beautiful with my tuxedo paintjob!



Ooooold picture... But that's where it will go!

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Appreciate it Bram!
> 
> I'm going to run with what comes onboard for a bit, do some listening, etc, then work from there. It's going to go in the front flex bay of a CaseLabs S3, so I want to have something that I can make look beautiful with my tuxedo paintjob!
> 
> 
> 
> Ooooold picture... But that's where it will go!
> 
> Thanks - T


That should look awesome.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That should look awesome.


See... I'm doing a Corsair Air 540 in Florida Gators colors based off the Gigabyte Z87 OC motherboard (orange one), and part of me wants SO BADLY to close _that_ build back down and move into this one, use the Sapphire R9 280X TOXIC card (orange highlights) with my MSI mobo (blue highlights), and add a bunch of other of my stuff, and make it all to come together that way!

BRAM: What's the best way to get your Komodo's front stickers off w/o jacking up the acetal / poly? I'm thinking I can get a custom lazer with Swiftech, CaseLabs, Gators, etc on it and stick it on the black, but only because the red of ya'lls graphics don't match...

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> See... I'm doing a Corsair Air 540 in Florida Gators colors based off the Gigabyte Z87 OC motherboard (orange one), and part of me wants SO BADLY to close _that_ build back down and move into this one, use the Sapphire R9 280X TOXIC card (orange highlights) with my MSI mobo (blue highlights), and add a bunch of other of my stuff, and make it all to come together that way!
> 
> BRAM: What's the best way to get your Komodo's front stickers off w/o jacking up the acetal / poly? I'm thinking I can get a custom lazer with Swiftech, CaseLabs, Gators, etc on it and stick it on the black, but only because the red of ya'lls graphics don't match...
> 
> Thanks - T


Unfortunately, being that those stickers weren't meant to be removed the only way to do it would be to use a razor blade. You'll have to be very careful doing so, and the removal of the sticker will obviously void your warranty. There may also be some glue residue left behind that will need to be cleaned off.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately, being that those stickers weren't meant to be removed the only way to do it would be to use a razor blade. You'll have to be very careful doing so, and the removal of the sticker will obviously void your warranty. There may also be some glue residue left behind that will need to be cleaned off.


Yeah, NEVERMIND THEN.









I'll stick to watering only the CPU, and probably go nuts and water the RAM, but leave the future gigantic R9 280X out of the loop.
Oh, nice pun...

Thanks - T


----------



## Avonosac

I'm actually a fan of the SP120s on 7v in my Arc Midi R2. The FPI is just about perfect for that speed on those fans, and they are dead silent.

My prodigy just has 5x helix off of the PWM splitter


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Sooooo....
> 
> I used to sub to this when I was going to get an H200 back before it even released, then I went full custom, then a bunch of other stuff, now two rigs later I have need for this again, so here I am...
> 
> And I ordered my new CM Glacier 240L from Newegg today!!!
> 
> Anyone got tips on fans? The stock good, or no? What are they, pinout wise?
> I'f I wanna go with my own, and in push / pull, what's going to need to be the connector / power type I go for?
> 
> Thanks - T


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> See... I'm doing a Corsair Air 540 in Florida Gators colors based off the Gigabyte Z87 OC motherboard (orange one), and part of me wants SO BADLY to close _that_ build back down and move into this one, use the Sapphire R9 280X TOXIC card (orange highlights) with my MSI mobo (blue highlights), and add a bunch of other of my stuff, and make it all to come together that way!
> 
> BRAM: What's the best way to get your Komodo's front stickers off w/o jacking up the acetal / poly? I'm thinking I can get a custom lazer with Swiftech, CaseLabs, Gators, etc on it and stick it on the black, but only because the red of ya'lls graphics don't match...
> 
> Thanks - T


That tuxedo build needs the custom painted MCR220-QP and Helix fans I have for sale







.

BTW my Komodo stickers always came up super easy with my fingernail. Use goo gone to clean up the little bit of reside.


----------



## Blackops_2

So the Glacer is good to go?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So the Glacer is good to go?


I'm a little biased, but I would say yes.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm a little biased, but I would say yes.


To be fair, most of the regulars in this thread are biased









I have 2 H220's after all


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm a little biased, but I would say yes.


Alright because i'm about to temporarily get my 3770k rig going so i can move my 8320 rig to home and give my Mom my Q9550 rig.

Will look something like this.

Corsair 800D
3770k
Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3
16Gb DDR3 2133
Seasonic 1250W Gold
Diamond 7970 till i can fund 780s/290s
600gb Raptor
Coolermaster Glacier

I could put the Glacier on my 8320 after i move to a custom loop as planned also.

Maybe i'm on edge because it's been a while since i've spent 700$ in one sitting lol

On the other hand i was really close to ordering a 780 Classy.

Newegg has a 25$ off any order over 250$ today as well NAFSAVE25NOV1R

Should i be concerned about the 2 year warranty of coolermaster over the 3 year warranty with Swiftech. From what i understand CS with swiftech is great. I've never dealt with CM.


----------



## Avonosac

580 classy is definitely not worth the money, unless you need FP64 compute. 600/700 series cards are better in every way.


----------



## Blackops_2

Sorry i wrote 580 classy dont' know what i was thinking i meant 780. Fixed sorry about that.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well it's ordered I'll see first hand how the glacier is. Pretty excited.


----------



## mrscott

I was considering buying an H220, can anyone tell me how many water blocks it can safely run if I were to expand the loop?

The thought of reading all 700 pages is disconcerting.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Blackops_2

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/67930-the-cooler-master-glacier-240l-the-h220-successor/

"Anyway, the main things to know about this unit is that it is fundamentally the same thing as the H220. It has the same pump with the revision 2 impeller, but turned up to 3500 rpm for more flow. Gabe originally designed this motor to run at 4500 rpm, and in their testing, outperformed the MCP35X at that speed."

Outperforming the MCP35x i would confidently put a CPU, two GPUs, and maybe some rads on it. Might not beat some higher end setups but it would work well i believe.


----------



## Phelan

Hey, that sounds familiar!









But yes, cpu, two gpus in parallel, and 3 rads is doable with the H220. Gabe did so at CES. If you're in the states, get the Glacer 240L because it has a higher max rpm, so will have a little better flow.


----------



## 66racer

Gez I was concerned about a cpu and 1 gpu loop but not anymore! They ran 2 gpu's all on 3/8 hose?

I was worried the hose would be a bottleneck but if the pump can do good flow through it I guess its ok. My loop has an antec 920 on my cpu and an h70 on the gpu through a 180mm and adding one of the stock 120mm rads didnt really improve temps (think it was 1c). Guess its not the 3/8 line but the blocks or the flow rate. Granted temps are not bad, we are on ocn so always looking to make things better









Been wanting this for a while but need to sort out my next case. Was thinking aerocool ds or 350d but now im thinking of the lian li test bench for something I havent done before. Luckily no kids (yet) and the pc has its own room so a bench would be ok.


----------



## opstar

I received my Glacer 240L from Newegg on Tuesday. Installed it with two Noctua NF-F12s in pull. Temps are great on my 2600k @ 4.8Ghz 1.35v under 65c load. However on Thursday night the pump started making the most annoying noise. Temps are fine but the noise is unbearable. Anything over 2k rpm and it just screams. I thought maybe it was an air bubble but my sound is constant, not intermittent and it appeared suddenly. Any ideas?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opstar*
> 
> I received my Glacer 240L from Newegg on Tuesday. Installed it with two Noctua NF-F12s in pull. Temps are great on my 2600k @ 4.8Ghz 1.35v under 65c load. However on Thursday night the pump started making the most annoying noise. Temps are fine but the noise is unbearable. Anything over 2k rpm and it just screams. I thought maybe it was an air bubble but my sound is constant, not intermittent and it appeared suddenly. Any ideas?


Have you tried the instructions on the first page yet? You'd be surprised at what kind of noise an air pocket can make.


----------



## opstar

Okay, I'll try that then.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you dont need to run the pump at full speed. The performance difference is not that much. Lower the speed via PWM using Speedfan to select the desired silence you like.


----------



## grunion

What kind of temp drop can I expect going to the Glacer from 920 or a 240M?

Glacer is in route, my 920 and my 240 are both overwhelmed by my 4770K.


----------



## opstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> you dont need to run the pump at full speed. The performance difference is not that much. Lower the speed via PWM using Speedfan to select the desired silence you like.


So I won't run into issues running the pump at a lower rpm so as to alleviate the noise?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opstar*
> 
> So I won't run into issues running the pump at a lower rpm so as to alleviate the noise?


No, the pump is design to be that way to use PWM. I ran my pump at 30% about 1800rpm


----------



## IsaaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opstar*
> 
> I received my Glacer 240L from Newegg on Tuesday. Installed it with two Noctua NF-F12s in pull. Temps are great on my 2600k @ 4.8Ghz 1.35v under 65c load. However on Thursday night the pump started making the most annoying noise. Temps are fine but the noise is unbearable. Anything over 2k rpm and it just screams. I thought maybe it was an air bubble but my sound is constant, not intermittent and it appeared suddenly. Any ideas?


Hello, mine does the exact same thing.
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/67930-the-cooler-master-glacier-240l-the-h220-successor/?p=977146
Quote:


> I received my unit a few days ago and I have been playing around with it. I'm currently using it with a pair of Noctua NF-F12 fans. I've had a 7c drop in temp during load using Aida 64 compared to my H100i. I've been running the 240L pump/block between 1600rpm-1900rpm.
> 
> For those who buy this unit, make sure you power it on outside of the case first to check if it needs to be bled. My unit had some air in the pump housing causing it to run loud (ticking noise). After I shook the radiator a little and moved the pump around in different angles, the air pocket was purged and the pump now runs silently throughout the RPM range.
> 
> BUT there's a problem, it's only silent when the block ISN'T mounted onto the CPU. When mounted on top of the CPU, it's only silent below 2000rpm. Above 2000 RPM there's what seems to be a high freq resonance emitting from the block whenever the copper cold plate touches anything solid creating an acoustical fiasco. Above 2000rpm my rig begins to sound like one of those hand held vibrating massage units. Below 2000rpm, it's dead silent.


----------



## sdmf74

Ooooold picture... But that's where it will go!

Hey thrasher that s3 would look sick with a pair (or 2) of these NB eloop B12-P PWM fans


----------



## MadGoat

I've found that more air flow across this rad doesn't really do much for temps... as long as the included helix fans are ~1200rpm ... it seems that's all the air flow this rad really needs...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I've found that more air flow across this rad doesn't really do much for temps... as long as the included helix fans are ~1200rpm ... it seems that's all the air flow this rad really needs...


That's pretty mufh the jist of it







.


----------



## ciarlatano

HTL review of the Glacer 240L is up - http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/37574-cm-glacer240l


----------



## TeeBlack

good review


----------



## Phelan

Good review, although CM Jon told me the kit wouldn't come with a splitter. Maybe they changed that since? Maybe Bryan can elaborate on that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Good review, although CM Jon told me the kit wouldn't come with a splitter. Maybe they changed that since? Maybe Bryan can elaborate on that.


Not to my knowledge, but I can check in on that tomorrow when I get into work.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not to my knowledge, but I can check in on that tomorrow when I get into work.


Cool thanks Bryan. Intioned it because HTL said in the review that it comes with the splitter.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> HTL review of the Glacer 240L is up - http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/37574-cm-glacer240l


Good review, I hope it comes with the PWM fan splitter!

I did notice that the SATA power cable and fan cable from the pump are rather short. I'll wait for some more feedback from OCN members before I order one from newegg.


----------



## jedi304

Hey guys, I'm still getting a grasp of the whole watercooling setup, would there be a difference in flow using the H220 between using distilled water or lets say perhaps Mayhems Pastel coolant?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not to my knowledge, but I can check in on that tomorrow when I get into work.


It's not mentioned on the CM site, either....but it was in the box. Interested to hear the facts so I can change the review if needed.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys

Is there anywhere I can buy the barb fittings and screw clamp that you use on the pump and radiator as I'm wanting to add another radiator and want everything looking the same


----------



## delpy8

Me again

Another wee question what is the flow direction from the pump/block

Eg my radiator is fitted to top of 900d with tubing on top right if looking through clear window, so on the cpu pump is it top barb or bottom barb I'm a total newbie and just trying to figure this out


----------



## jedi304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Is there anywhere I can buy the barb fittings and screw clamp that you use on the pump and radiator as I'm wanting to add another radiator and want everything looking the same


http://www.frozencpu.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Me again
> 
> Another wee question what is the flow direction from the pump/block
> 
> Eg my radiator is fitted to top of 900d with tubing on top right if looking through clear window, so on the cpu pump is it top barb or bottom barb I'm a total newbie and just trying to figure this out


I'm not really sure but from what I've read there should be labels on there.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Me again
> 
> Another wee question what is the flow direction from the pump/block
> 
> Eg my radiator is fitted to top of 900d with tubing on top right if looking through clear window, so on the cpu pump is it top barb or bottom barb I'm a total newbie and just trying to figure this out


If you are modifying the loop, the only thing you need to worry about in that case is making sure the reservior is leading into the inlet on the pump. If you look right next to the barbs, one will have the word IN engraved right next to the swivel barb.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's not mentioned on the CM site, either....but it was in the box. Interested to hear the facts so I can change the review if needed.


CM just confirmed to me that the splitter is NOT included in the retail pack. Too bad, it's a great accessory.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can buy the barb fittings and screw clamp that you use on the pump and radiator as I'm wanting to add another radiator and want everything looking the same


Shortly: No.

Longer answer: The swivel barb fittings of H220/H320/240L pump/radiator are not regular G1/4 threaded fittings, so they are not available on any shop, neither can youcells attach them into any other radiator.

Sorry, but youcells just must mix fittings. There is no other way.









The clamps may be available through Swiftech, but youcells must ask that from "BramSLI1™".

Though their compatibility with other fittings is questionable as well?


----------



## Conditioned

Glacer 240L hows this compared to the hl220 in terms of noise? I was considering getting the h220 but I just see too many people with problems, especially regarding the noise. Also any eta on release in europe?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Glacer 240L hows this compared to the hl220 in terms of noise? I was considering getting the h220 but I just see too many people with problems, especially regarding the noise. Also any eta on release in europe?


They would be the same. 240l is the H220. Different fans and 240L pump is 500rpm faster.


----------



## Conditioned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> They would be the same. 240l is the H220. Different fans and 240L pump is 500rpm faster.


Different fans + different pump=different sound.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Different fans + different pump=different sound.


Pump is the same on both. H220 is 3000 rpm 240L 3500 rpm. Both are PWM.
Helix 1800 rpm Blade master is 2400 rpm.

Run it at 30% and you wont hear either of them. Even with same fans on both, low speed is the same.


----------



## 66racer

Any chance they will sell just the cpu block/pump kinda like the apogee drive 2? Would be great since I already have a rez and radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Any chance they will sell just the cpu block/pump kinda like the apogee drive 2? Would be great since I already have a rez and radiator.


I don't currently know of any plans to do so. Sorry about that.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Any chance they will sell just the cpu block/pump kinda like the apogee drive 2? Would be great since I already have a rez and radiator.


While it would be nice for those of us going semi-custom out of the gate, Swiftech can't seem to satisfy the demand for the full H220 unit just yet, so I don't think its time for them to compete directly against their higher powered product.

I did read somewhere the pump running at 4500rpm was actually better than the Laing pump in the AD2, in which case it could be interesting to see down the road if they tweak the unit a little more for the bubble and electronics issue, and release the AD3 as an all swiftech product.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> While it would be nice for those of us going semi-custom out of the gate, Swiftech can't seem to satisfy the demand for the full H220 unit just yet, so I don't think its time for them to compete directly against their higher powered product.
> 
> I did read somewhere the pump running at 4500rpm was actually better than the Laing pump in the AD2, in which case it could be interesting to see down the road if they tweak the unit a little more for the bubble and electronics issue, and release the AD3 as an all swiftech product.


I have that belief/notion as well, that Swiftech will evwntually replace their laing-running units with in-house pumps. You probably read me saying that, as I've repeated it a couple times. Gabe was the one who originally said so here in the Owners' Club.

Also, the APD2 can be had brand new for as little as $118 from Hellfire-PC, a licensed distributor of Swiftech. Considering the H220 block has an Apogee HD base, which the Apogee HD sells for about $60 alone, I can't see the unit selling for less than $90-100, in which case you could just get the APD2 for a few dollars more and use your own fittings.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I have that belief/notion as well, that Swiftech will evwntually replace their laing-running units with in-house pumps. You probably read me saying that, as I've repeated it a couple times. Gabe was the one who originally said so here in the Owners' Club.
> 
> Also, the APD2 can be had brand new for as little as $118 from Hellfire-PC, a licensed distributor of Swiftech. Considering the H220 block has an Apogee HD base, which the Apogee HD sells for about $60 alone, I can't see the unit selling for less than $90-100, in which case you could just get the APD2 for a few dollars more and use your own fittings.


I'm not saying it won't eventually happen; I'm just saying that there aren't any plans to do so currently that I'm aware of. I think once we have an idea of how well the Cooler Master iteration of the product does, then we might see where else we can take this product in the future. I'm just speculating though.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm not saying it won't eventually happen; I'm just saying that there aren't any plans to do so currently that I'm aware of. I think once we have an idea of how well the Cooler Master iteration of the product does, then we might see where else we can take this product in the future. I'm just speculating though.


Thanks for the disclaimer there Bryan


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Thanks for the disclaimer there Bryan


No problem, I'm always glad to help with a good disclaimer.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I have that belief/notion as well, that Swiftech will evwntually replace their laing-running units with in-house pumps. You probably read me saying that, as I've repeated it a couple times. Gabe was the one who originally said so here in the Owners' Club.
> 
> Also, the APD2 can be had brand new for as little as $118 from Hellfire-PC, a licensed distributor of Swiftech. Considering the H220 block has an Apogee HD base, which the Apogee HD sells for about $60 alone, I can't see the unit selling for less than $90-100, in which case you could just get the APD2 for a few dollars more and use your own fittings.


I for one can actually see the Block/Pump combo potentially less than 90$ due to its more expensive kit version relatives Block is 90$ while a normal eisberg being 165$(which is more than the h220/Glacer). Though I'm also one who would like the block/pump only, the number of us who actually want pump only is a minority(people who want the swiftech pump only) of the minority(people who water cool). It would be nice if CM could possibly give us numbers on how many standalone pumps to kit ratios they have sold so far, but those kind of numbers are probably confidential.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't currently know of any plans to do so. Sorry about that.


Thanks for the fast response!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I have that belief/notion as well, that Swiftech will evwntually replace their laing-running units with in-house pumps. You probably read me saying that, as I've repeated it a couple times. Gabe was the one who originally said so here in the Owners' Club.
> 
> Also, the APD2 can be had brand new for as little as $118 from Hellfire-PC, a licensed distributor of Swiftech. Considering the H220 block has an Apogee HD base, which the Apogee HD sells for about $60 alone, I can't see the unit selling for less than $90-100, in which case you could just get the APD2 for a few dollars more and use your own fittings.


Wow thats the cheapest I have heard of it being...while Im still leaning towards the 240L, I might go that route. On my lunch break I picked up the lian li t60 test bench and would be great for a 240mm radiator, I currently only have the 180mm in my tj08b-e...we'll see what I end up doing, Im just happy this product exist lol


----------



## outofmyheadyo

When will the Glacier 240L be available in europe ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> When will the Glacier 240L be available in europe ?


I'm not aware of when that will be. You will have to contact the CM rep about that. You should still be able to get our H220 and H320 there though.


----------



## Turt1e

Got my tracking info for my 2nd replacement thanks to Bryan! Hope this one doesn't give me problems.


----------



## MrStick89

So I got my 2nd H220 working flawless now. Pretty much maxed out the cooler running burn test on my fx8350 @ 4.9ghz but doesn't go above 40c while playing bf4.

I want to loop my r9 290x in to my system, would I need to add a second radiator? I could put a single 140mm rad in but anything else and I would have to do some case modification, I think I can drill some rivets and fit another 240rad in the HDD bay if I had to. At that point I may just consider a custom loop and new case(and a 4770k). Can I get a good overclock on my CPU and GPU on a single or two 240mm rads?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> So I got my 2nd H220 working flawless now. Pretty much maxed out the cooler running burn test on my fx8350 @ 4.9ghz but doesn't go above 40c while playing bf4.
> 
> I want to loop my r9 290x in to my system, would I need to add a second radiator? I could put a single 140mm rad in but anything else and I would have to do some case modification, I think I can drill some rivets and fit another 240rad in the HDD bay if I had to. At that point I may just consider a custom loop and new case(and a 4770k). Can I get a good overclock on my CPU and GPU on a single or two 240mm rads?


i would recommend adding another rad a 140 should be fine !!

2x240 would do great


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> So I got my 2nd H220 working flawless now. Pretty much maxed out the cooler running burn test on my fx8350 @ 4.9ghz but doesn't go above 40c while playing bf4.
> 
> I want to loop my r9 290x in to my system, would I need to add a second radiator? I could put a single 140mm rad in but anything else and I would have to do some case modification, I think I can drill some rivets and fit another 240rad in the HDD bay if I had to. At that point I may just consider a custom loop and new case(and a 4770k). Can I get a good overclock on my CPU and GPU on a single or two 240mm rads?






I have an Alphacool xt45 single 140mm coming which I am adding to the loop with a 3930k and the 290x.. I think this is going to be plenty to keep it cool and quite.. I am only worried that the CPU temps may rise


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> 
> I have an Alphacool xt45 single 140mm coming which I am adding to the loop with a 3930k and the 290x.. I think this is going to be plenty to keep it cool and quite.. I am only worried that the CPU temps may rise


They will likely rise slightly, but probably not enough to be of concern. I would guess only a couple of degrees.


----------



## Blackops_2

Mine's at home wont be able to get around to using it until i get home and assemble everything in a week.

Just for clarification and i don't mean to sound like a naysayer/stickler the pump issues that we were seeing early on have been resolved?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Mine's at home wont be able to get around to using it until i get home and assemble everything in a week.
> 
> Just for clarification and i don't mean to sound like a naysayer/stickler the pump issues that we were seeing early on have been resolved?


FWIW, I've had my H220 for about 2 weeks and I'm quite pleased with mine. The pump is completely silent and has given me absolutely no trouble.


----------



## Blackops_2

Glad to hear it, looking for some longer term results? Months anyone? I forgot to specify it's the Glacer. So we'll see i'm excited. Hope i don't run into any problems.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Glad to hear it, looking for some longer term results? Months anyone? I forgot to specify it's the Glacer. So we'll see i'm excited. Hope i don't run into any problems.


I had to RMA (awesome process with BramSLI1 by the way, great service) my pump with the old impeller design. It was upgraded to the new impeller design this time around and I'm looking forward to using it again.

With the original design I ran from 4/26 to 9/04 no problem. I got estimated early delivery for it tomorrow instead of Friday so I'll be building my loop again after work. I'm surmising you shouldn't have any issues. Afterall not a lot of units actually fail it's just the thread that brings them to surface here.

Also, will post pictures, get to use my Arc Midi R2 I've had since labor day sale


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> I had to RMA (awesome process with BramSLI1 by the way, great service) my pump with the old impeller design. It was upgraded to the new impeller design this time around and I'm looking forward to using it again.
> 
> With the original design I ran from 4/26 to 9/04 no problem. I got estimated early delivery for it tomorrow instead of Friday so I'll be building my loop again after work. I'm surmising you shouldn't have any issues. Afterall not a lot of units actually fail it's just the thread that brings them to surface here.
> 
> Also, will post pictures, get to use my Arc Midi R2 I've had since labor day sale


Thanks for the info and let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for the info and let me know if you need any further assistance.


Well actually lol, just noticed that Newegg had the H220 as discontinued when I checked my old invoice and on Swiftech's website it's marked as not for sale in the US now.

Sorry if it was covered earlier in the thread, has been a bit since I was on, but is it temporary or a permanent status for the cooler? I know it wasn't available before but went on sale later, I think this is a separate instance?

Edit: Read the press release but I've seen the cooler for sale at least 2 weeks ago if not more recently.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

In the US H220/H320 can not be sold due to patent issues with Asetek. So Swiftech teamed up with Coolermaster to build the Glacier 240L. H220 inside with CM outside. As Coolermaster has already done all legal against Asetek.
So it is win win for CM and Swiftech.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> In the US H220/H320 can not be sold due to patent issues with Asetek. So Swiftech teamed up with Coolermaster to build the Glacier 240L. H220 inside with CM outside. As Coolermaster has already done all legal against Asetek.
> So it is win win for CM and Swiftech.


Gotcha, was thinking the 240L was more of a sister product was all. Well that's good the product is still available. I guess those retailers were just selling the last of their remaining stock then.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Gotcha, was thinking the 240L was more of a sister product was all. Well that's good the product is still available. I guess those retailers were just selling the last of their remaining stock then.


Yeah, that's most likely what you saw. These haven't been available from us in the US since about the first of June.


----------



## grunion

Well bad news...

The fill port extends too far and is obstructed by my 8 pin and mPCIe combo card.
I can always flip it I guess, though it won't be as aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## Pure2sin

Can anyone tell me how to or where to find directions on taking apart the pump?

I probably can figure it out from Martin's pictures but just wondering if someone has more detailed directions?


----------



## grunion

Couple pics of the install...

As you can see, the 8 pin and mPCIe card interfere with a rear mount of the fill port.
High profile memory may present a problem as well.

Top mount, fans top mount, push.
Fans are Spectre Pro white led.


----------



## EarlZ

I had to clip the 8pin locks on my end to make the h220 fit


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to or where to find directions on taking apart the pump?
> 
> I probably can figure it out from Martin's pictures but just wondering if someone has more detailed directions?


PM me and I can send you detailed instructions on how to take the pump apart.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Couple pics of the install...
> 
> As you can see, the 8 pin and mPCIe card interfere with a rear mount of the fill port.
> High profile memory may present a problem as well.
> 
> Top mount, fans top mount, push.
> Fans are Spectre Pro white led.


Move the ram to slot 2/4, that will make sure you have clearance.
Just most cases like Corsair design them to work with there own products, which leaves other people out or just not designed to fit a rad correctly.
Dont know exactly which case you have?


----------



## saintage

HI!

Im torn between choosing from h320 and glacer 240l/h220

Q1: If you guys have the chance to get both, what would you choose? whats the advantage of h320 over the 240l?

Q2: can h320 pump(3000rpm) hold 2 additional blocks(total of 3 blocks-1 cpu 2 gpu) and two or three additional radiators?

needed opinions from others i can't trust my knowledge since im newbie ^^

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Glad to hear it, looking for some longer term results? Months anyone? I forgot to specify it's the Glacer. So we'll see i'm excited. Hope i don't run into any problems.


i dont think it has been out for more then a month has it ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Well actually lol, just noticed that Newegg had the H220 as discontinued when I checked my old invoice and on Swiftech's website it's marked as not for sale in the US now.
> 
> Sorry if it was covered earlier in the thread, has been a bit since I was on, but is it temporary or a permanent status for the cooler? I know it wasn't available before but went on sale later, I think this is a separate instance?
> 
> Edit: Read the press release but I've seen the cooler for sale at least 2 weeks ago if not more recently.


still can not sell to resellers in the us, however i have seen some ( nc.x, you can figure it out )

import them from say canada and sell them here

also to note newegg marks alot of out of stock items as discontinued, and then they bring them back.... not all though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> In the US H220/H320 can not be sold due to patent issues with Asetek. So Swiftech teamed up with Coolermaster to build the Glacier 240L. H220 inside with CM outside. As Coolermaster has already done all legal against Asetek.
> So it is win win for CM and Swiftech.


can not be sold to resellers in the us... the resellers can do what they want however from there.... swiftech has no control over it


----------



## abbb

I just got a replacement H220 for my current one with an off-balance pump. The pump's not supposed like this, is it? 



The pump's also stuck at 100% (3700-3750RPM), and there's no way to change it.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I just got a replacement H220 for my current one with an off-balance pump. The pump's not supposed like this, is it?
> 
> 
> 
> The pump's also stuck at 100% (3700-3750RPM), and there's no way to change it.


That is pretty loud and should not sound like that, also 3750rpm is quite high as the rated spec is only at 3000, my current pump runs at 2900 tops.. my 2 prev pumps were at 3100


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont think it has been out for more then a month has it ?


No it hasn't i was just asking because they're basically the same.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I hope my unit from rma is silent this time, getting tired of my inbox =D

Also has anyone else noticed the pump speed has a very minimal diffrence in temps, I had like a 1 degree temp diffrence compared to the pump on 1150 vs 3000 and that was with a 4770k @1.34v under linx not complaining cause I never planned to run it over the minimum speed


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintage*
> 
> HI!
> 
> Im torn between choosing from h320 and glacer 240l/h220
> 
> Q1: If you guys have the chance to get both, what would you choose? whats the advantage of h320 over the 240l?
> 
> Q2: can h320 pump(3000rpm) hold 2 additional blocks(total of 3 blocks-1 cpu 2 gpu) and two or three additional radiators?
> 
> needed opinions from others i can't trust my knowledge since im newbie ^^
> 
> Thanks a lot!


So you know the H220 is the 240L. H320 is a 360 rad, while the H220/240L is 240 rad. The pump can handle multiple rads and blocks. basic rule is for every block you use 120mm rad as a minimum. Now that is also a factor if the GPU is a high end or mid end
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I just got a replacement H220 for my current one with an off-balance pump. The pump's not supposed like this, is it?
> 
> 
> 
> The pump's also stuck at 100% (3700-3750RPM), and there's no way to change it.


If you can not adjust speeds, then you are not running on a PWM. Only the CPU can be done, and will vary on your mobo. What are you using to try to adjust speed and where you reading it.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you can not adjust speeds, then you are not running on a PWM. Only the CPU can be done, and will vary on your mobo. What are you using to try to adjust speed and where you reading it.


Nothing works. The motherboard can't control it naturally, and neither will SpeedFan. The old pump works just fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I hope my unit from rma is silent this time, getting tired of my inbox =D
> 
> Also has anyone else noticed the pump speed has a very minimal diffrence in temps, I had like a 1 degree temp diffrence compared to the pump on 1150 vs 3000 and that was with a 4770k @1.34v under linx not complaining cause I never planned to run it over the minimum speed


very typical with watercooling really the upper pump rpms will only help with multiple things ( more rads res and blocks )


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm receiving mine this week...can't wait!
I'll run it for cpu only till X-mas then I'll add a gpu wb and another rad to the mix.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Nothing works. The motherboard can't control it naturally, and neither will SpeedFan. The old pump works just fine.


That means your motherboard 4pin header is running on voltage control.

Go into your bios, or read some documents on your motherboard spec and see if you can enable fan control with PWM, this is the only safe way to manage the H220's pump speed, any other method (voltage modulation) will kill your pump very fast.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you can not adjust speeds, then you are not running on a PWM. Only the CPU can be done, and will vary on your mobo. What are you using to try to adjust speed and where you reading it.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing works. The motherboard can't control it naturally, and neither will SpeedFan. The old pump works just fine.
Click to expand...

What mobo do you have? If you can not control the PWM, then you are stuck with running at full speed.
Unless you replace the mobo with one that works.
As for speedfan, you need to correctly have the bios configured and correctly set the options in speedfan to see and control pwm.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> That means your motherboard 4pin header is running on voltage control.
> 
> Go into your bios, or read some documents on your motherboard spec and see if you can enable fan control with PWM, this is the only safe way to manage the H220's pump speed, any other method (voltage modulation) will kill your pump very fast.


No, it's not the motherboard. It's a problem with the pump. The old pump works just fine with PWM. If I plug both into the PWM splitter at the same time, the new replacement just runs at 3700 RPM while the old pump is controlled by PWM.


----------



## Dudewitbow

checking the video again. i noticed

A) you are using a gigabyte z87 ud4h
B) NOTHING is plugged into the cpufan/cpuopt

why are you using a sysfan header




according to the manual, the only header you SHOULD be using is the cpu header, as all the other ones are different










CPU header is PWM as line 4 is the PWM signal. the rest are either 3 pin or speed changes with voltage. do NOT use the h220 pump on varying voltage


----------



## abbb

I was using the PWM splitter in the video. If you look at the video, You'll see that I'm using a paper clip to turn the PSU on. Notice the click as I flip the power switch on the PSU.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Using the paper clip wont help the mobo power on to control the pump.
Only one plug on the splitter will read the rpm CH1.
You need to make sure the splitter is plug into the cpu header, and nothing else.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I was using the PWM splitter in the video. If you look at the video, You'll see that I'm using a paper clip to turn the PSU on. Notice the click as I flip the power switch on the PSU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Using the paper clip wont help the mobo power on to control the pump.
> Only one plug on the splitter will read the rpm CH1.
> You need to make sure the splitter is plug into the cpu header, and nothing else.


What? The paper clip was turning the PSU on so the pump would turn on. The video was only to show the noise.


----------



## Dudewitbow

the splitter doesnt convert different 4 pins to compatable ones. it just duplicates the signal and sends them to all things connected to it. the only workable pin to control the pump must be the CPU fan header. any other you will either:

A) run at full speed
B) eventually lead to a swift pump death


----------



## abbb

Yes, I know. I was never not using the CPU fan header. Using the CPU header, the old pump works, and the new one is stuck at 3700 RPM. Using the PWM splitter with both pumps connected at the same time, the old pump responds to PWM control, but the new one's still stuck at 3700 RPM.


----------



## saintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> So you know the H220 is the 240L. H320 is a 360 rad, while the H220/240L is 240 rad. The pump can handle multiple rads and blocks. basic rule is for every block you use 120mm rad as a minimum. Now that is also a factor if the GPU is a high end or mid end


Thanks bud! so incase i add 2 more 240 rads with 2 high end gpu's the pump of h320 can handle it? Or should i add additional pump to the loop?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Yes, I know. I was never not using the CPU fan header. Using the CPU header, the old pump works, and the new one is stuck at 3700 RPM. Using the PWM splitter with both pumps connected at the same time, the old pump responds to PWM control, but the new one's still stuck at 3700 RPM.


but the video you posted shows that you didnt use the cpu header. I even took the SS showing that nothing was plugged into it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Yes, I know. I was never not using the CPU fan header. Using the CPU header, the old pump works, and the new one is stuck at 3700 RPM. Using the PWM splitter with both pumps connected at the same time, the old pump responds to PWM control, but the new one's still stuck at 3700 RPM.


Sounds like maybe the UPS guy dropped it along the way. Bryan should be on shortly, contact him about another RMA (really sorry bout your luck btw).


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> but the video you posted shows that you didnt use the cpu header. I even took the SS showing that nothing was plugged into it.


good catch, the video clearly shows nothing is plugged into either cpu, opt headers

just thought I would mention I have had my h220 (original impeller) since may 22 and all is well. No issues to report
I hope it stays this way I plan to expand to my 780 classifed


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
I'm changing the radiator on my h320 to a quad radiator so I will flush out the new radiator and add it to the loop can I just then top the new radiator up with some hydrx coolant etc or should I flush out the whole lot first. I'm new to this so any help appreciated


----------



## delpy8

Duplicate sorry


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> good catch, the video clearly shows nothing is plugged into either cpu, opt headers


abbb said they were using the paperclip PSU method in the video... which is why nothing was connected to the CPU header...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> Yes, I know. I was never not using the CPU fan header. Using the CPU header, the old pump works, and the new one is stuck at 3700 RPM. Using the PWM splitter with both pumps connected at the same time, the old pump responds to PWM control, but the new one's still stuck at 3700 RPM.


I've received your emails and I'm going to get you taken care of. I'm just curious as to why I didn't have this issue with your replacement when I tested it here. That's why I need you to give me your results when you had this replacement pump connected to the splitter. Email me when you can and let me know what the pump showed when you had it connected to the PWM splitter.


----------



## sdmf74

That's what's great about swiftech, customer service. +1 to companies like EVGA and swiftech that value their customers after the sale, not too many do anymore. It's nice to know if I do have an issue it will most likely be handled professionally.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would a H220 with no added rads on a 1.4v intel 4770k + 2x GTX 780 @ 1.35v catch fire ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would a H220 on a 1.4v intel 4770k + 2x GTX 780 @ 1.35v catch fire ?


The H220 shouldn't, but your PCBs might.


----------



## sdmf74

Just use coolant not distilled water, it might boil and evaporate


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> That's what's great about swiftech, customer service. +1 to companies like EVGA and swiftech that value their customers after the sale, not too many do anymore. It's nice to know if I do have an issue it will most likely be handled professionally.


+1 had my issues sorted out by bram very quickly


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> +1 had my issues sorted out by bram very quickly


+1 Bram took care of everything very quickly, and im in europe.
Buy from Swiftech with confidence, these guys stand behind their products


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> +1 Bram took care of everything very quickly, and im in europe.
> Buy from Swiftech with confidence, these guys stand behind their products


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> That's what's great about swiftech, customer service. +1 to companies like EVGA and swiftech that value their customers after the sale, not too many do anymore. It's nice to know if I do have an issue it will most likely be handled professionally.


+1. I vouch for the care of this company to their customers. I am in Brazil and Bram handle personally a RMA to me down here.


----------



## RoughneckGeek

Hopefully this is the right place...

I'm considering making my next build my first water cooled build. Instead of the Swiftech H220, I'm looking at the Swiftech H20-X20 Edge as an option for my upcoming build. Would that be enough radiator for an i7 4770k and single 290X? If not, would adding another single 120 or 140 rad do the job? From the research I've done, it seems like the integrated MCP35X should be powerful enough even with the extra radiator... right?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoughneckGeek*
> 
> Hopefully this is the right place...
> 
> I'm considering making my next build my first water cooled build. Instead of the Swiftech H220, I'm looking at the Swiftech H20-X20 Edge as an option for my upcoming build. Would that be enough radiator for an i7 4770k and single 290X? If not, would adding another single 120 or 140 rad do the job? From the research I've done, it seems like the integrated MCP35X should be powerful enough even with the extra radiator... right?


Personally I'd opt dor the Elite kit over the edge kit myself.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220 shouldn't, but your PCBs might.


And what about single 290 non x and a 3820 at 5ghz?









Quick question: I purchased a Glacer from abroad, can I get warranty coverage in Argentina somehow?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoughneckGeek*
> 
> Hopefully this is the right place...
> 
> I'm considering making my next build my first water cooled build. Instead of the Swiftech H220, I'm looking at the Swiftech H20-X20 Edge as an option for my upcoming build. Would that be enough radiator for an i7 4770k and single 290X? If not, would adding another single 120 or 140 rad do the job? From the research I've done, it seems like the integrated MCP35X should be powerful enough even with the extra radiator... right?


The MCP35X can handle that loop without a problem. What sized radiator are you planning to get with the H2O-X20 and what case are you planning to use?


----------



## RoughneckGeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Personally I'd opt dor the Elite kit over the edge kit myself.


Why? The reason I was leaning towards the Edge was to have the rad/res/pump all in one unit then do a parallel run to cool the GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The MCP35X can handle that loop without a problem. What sized radiator are you planning to get with the H2O-X20 and what case are you planning to use?


Sorry, the one I'm looking at is the dual 120. Now here's the part where you all laugh at me. I'm using the Fractal Design Node 304 for this build. I'll be modifying the case a bit to accommodate for the dual 120 rad and if I need it putting another single 120 or 140 on the existing rear vent.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

the R9 290X is a hot card, and consider it as a dual gpu. so you want a 360 or 240+120 to give you the cooling you need. You can use 140 in the rear also.
The H220 pump can handle an extra rad with GPU/CPU block


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> the R9 290X is a hot card, and consider it as a dual gpu. so you want a 360 or 240+120 to give you the cooling you need. You can use 140 in the rear also.
> The H220 pump can handle an extra rad with GPU/CPU block


I can confirm that this is correct.


----------



## RoughneckGeek

That's the info I was looking for. Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> abbb said they were using the paperclip PSU method in the video... which is why nothing was connected to the CPU header...


... how will it modulate speed without a signal telling it to? it wont, it will however run @ 100%


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> the R9 290X is a hot card, and consider it as a dual gpu. so you want a 360 or 240+120 to give you the cooling you need. You can use 140 in the rear also.
> The H220 pump can handle an extra rad with GPU/CPU block


It is honestly not that hot of card as we have started to see with people who have it under water/custom cooler's but the reference cooler is such crap it screams to be WC'd!

I will let you guys know within the next few weeks if a h220+Alphacool xt45 single 140mm can cool a 3930k and 290x! Will be interesting and I am very excited staring at all this water cooling gear







I am interested to hear this 140mm helix fan.. I hope its quiet and performs well!

Just waiting for the block....


----------



## Pedros

I there,

so i just got a H320 to install in the front of a Carbide Air 540.
After thinking, i decided i want to install an extra rad in the top ( 280mm ) and add it to the loop for my CPU and GPU ( maybe, add the mobo, it's a Asus Extreme Formula Z87 ... but that's secondary )

My question is ... do you think there will be no problem with that? I mean, will the pump handle the flow for the 280mm rad and the rest of the blocks? And how about cooling liquid ... is it needed to had a reservoir or can i just leave how it is?

Btw, this will be my first WC build, is there any place where you can "learn" how to had new radiators to a H320 or H220 system?

Thanks
Pedro


----------



## Thrasher1016

Got my Glacier 240L last night, and sadly will not get to install it until next week, Monday at the earliest.
At any rate, the plan now is to violate it's sovereignty (tear it apart), slap two new radiators on there (140.1 and 120.2), use a Swiftech Micro Res V2 and some Primochill Adv. LRT that I have, and cobble together a hybrid fella that can whip my CPU's temps.

....Seeing as it's a barely OC'd 2500k, that shouldn't be too hard....









I want to get a R9 280X TOXIC, then w/c that too, so I guess the arguement could be made that I actually need that rad space later...









Thanks - T


----------



## saintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> I there,
> 
> so i just got a H320 to install in the front of a Carbide Air 540.
> After thinking, i decided i want to install an extra rad in the top ( 280mm ) and add it to the loop for my CPU and GPU ( maybe, add the mobo, it's a Asus Extreme Formula Z87 ... but that's secondary )
> 
> My question is ... do you think there will be no problem with that? I mean, will the pump handle the flow for the 280mm rad and the rest of the blocks? And how about cooling liquid ... is it needed to had a reservoir or can i just leave how it is?
> 
> Btw, this will be my first WC build, is there any place where you can "learn" how to had new radiators to a H320 or H220 system?
> 
> Thanks
> Pedro


h320 pump can handle your additional 280mm rad and you can just leave it how it is. check this vid 



 h220 and h320 have the same pump

and this 



 will also help you learn to expand.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> It is honestly not that hot of card as we have started to see with people who have it under water/custom cooler's but the reference cooler is such crap it screams to be WC'd!
> 
> I will let you guys know within the next few weeks if a h220+Alphacool xt45 single 140mm can cool a 3930k and 290x! Will be interesting and I am very excited staring at all this water cooling gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am interested to hear this 140mm helix fan.. I hope its quiet and performs well!
> 
> Just waiting for the block....


I've got 3 of the Helix 140mm fans in my case and one of them is on my back radiator. They are very quiet and move tons of air. They're the best 140mm fans that I've ever used.


----------



## ivanlabrie

No CM reps in the thread? I asked something a few posts back.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> No CM reps in the thread? I asked something a few posts back.


He's lurking around here somewhere. What was your question, maybe I can help.


----------



## Azefore

Alright so after taking around 4-5 hours to get my loop setup again had a potential leak in the initial 30 minutes. I ran it for two hours after some tightening down on all points of possible failure and gave it another 2 hours today. Seems to doing fine and running the rig 100% now.

Haven't gotten my UV cathodes back in yet so no pictures of the loop (it's half done the way I want it to be) but here's the idle/underclocked temps, will get some load temps from BF4 and Arkham Origins tonight hopefully.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> He's lurking around here somewhere. What was your question, maybe I can help.


Was more warranty/support related. My unit was tested by a friend, who bought it in the US for me since you can't buy it locally AFAIK.
I'd like to know if they plan to sell or support them here in Argentina. Or if I have to ship them to the US.

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Was more warranty/support related. My unit was tested by a friend, who bought it in the US for me since you can't buy it locally AFAIK.
> I'd like to know if they plan to sell or support them here in Argentina. Or if I have to ship them to the US.
> 
> Thanks!


Unfortunately I'm not certain how their support will work. I'd imagine though that since it was purchased in the US it will have to be sent here for servicing. That's normally how warranty support works for most companies. If you go back to when the Glacer was first launched you should be able to find a couple of posts by the CM rep. You can try sending him a PM to inquire about their warranty support directly that way.


----------



## Pedros

One question,

it's ok to connect the spliter 4 pin cable to a fan controller instead of the PWM motherboard header in order for to control the speed, correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> One question,
> 
> it's ok to connect the spliter 3 pin cable to a fan controller instead of the PWM motherboard header in order for to control the speed, correct?


No. The reason why is that most fan controllers use voltage control rather than pulse width modulation to regulate the speeds of the devices that are connected to them. These pumps are designed for pulse width modulation (PWM) only. Connecting it to a voltage regulated fan controller can potentially damage the pump and cause it to fail prematurely. This is why it's recommended that if you don't use the PWM splitter that you connect the pump directly to your CPU fan header only. This is the only fan header on most motherboards that's guaranteed to use pulse width modulation.

Sorry, I think I read your question wrong. Connecting the splitter to a fan controller will not give you any speed control over the devices connected to the splitter. This is because as I stated above, most fan controllers use voltage regulation and this won't work with this PWM splitter. All of the device connected to the splitter in this way will just run at full speed.


----------



## Pedros

Ohh... sorry. Just found the white paper about that









So, if i want to control the fans, basically i connect the pump to the splitter and all the fans to the fan controller. On other hand, can i connect any non-PWM fans to the splitter without problems or ... i should only use the PWM ( sorry, i'm doing my first install, that's why so many doubts







)


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Was more warranty/support related. My unit was tested by a friend, who bought it in the US for me since you can't buy it locally AFAIK.
> I'd like to know if they plan to sell or support them here in Argentina. Or if I have to ship them to the US.
> 
> Thanks!


Hello ivanlabrie,

Cooler Master USA is only able to accept RMA's from the US and Canada. If you have any trouble with your Glacer in the future, then your friend would have to submit the RMA with us.

Please contact me if you have any more questions.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Ohh... sorry. Just found the white paper about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if i want to control the fans, basically i connect the pump to the splitter and all the fans to the fan controller. On other hand, can i connect any non-PWM fans to the splitter without problems or ... i should only use the PWM ( sorry, i'm doing my first install, that's why so many doubts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


What you need to keep in mind though is that the fans that came with this kit are PWM also. This means that trying to control them with voltage control could potentially damage them as well. I hope this helps to explain how you should install the pump and fans to properly control and power them.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Thanks guys! It's leak tested and it works fine it seems. I'll have it next Monday probably.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've got 3 of the Helix 140mm fans in my case and one of them is on my back radiator. They are very quiet and move tons of air. They're the best 140mm fans that I've ever used.


I'm gonna order a couple of those. I've been dying to try them.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've got 3 of the Helix 140mm fans in my case and one of them is on my back radiator. They are very quiet and move tons of air. They're the best 140mm fans that I've ever used.


Yeah I got very impatient while waiting for the GPU block I want to release and decided to add the xt45 140mm to the loop!

Here it is! The tube running from the rad to the h220 will be split and run into the GPU eventually..

It seems everything has been setup correctly and its running amazingly! Very very quiet and you are right Bryan the 140mm helix is really a nice fan







Would you see much difference with these in P/P as they really are silent and I don't think I would notice an audible difference?

Lost about 4-6c at load which is good as I didn't really expect any temp difference. I only expected to be able to add more devices to the loop and cool them effectively.
I really look forward to adding this 290x to the loop and seeing how it all pans out







.

Very impressed with h220 on this day










Side note.. Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings are very nice and do work very well but are extremely hard to completely thread with the Primochill LRT without using tools to tighten it. Mine by the end of it ended up pretty scratched up and will most likely need to be repainted.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Side note.. Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings are very nice and do work very well but are extremely hard to completely thread with the Primochill LRT without using tools to tighten it. Mine by the end of it ended up pretty scratched up and will most likely need to be repainted.
> 
> 
> 
> one of the many reasons i buy the chrome ones !!! i was set on black, ended up with a few pair of the chromeones... and fell in love. they just look gorgeous !
Click to expand...


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one of the many reasons i buy the chrome ones !!! i was set on black, ended up with a few pair of the chromeones... and fell in love. they just look gorgeous !


This is why I chose the Lok-Seal in the first place.. I used them when building this for a friend


I really enjoyed them and they worked great! But on the smaller tubing its an extremely tight fit which is good for fittings







BUT it did cause me to scratch up these black ones.. I didnt think ahead that much obviously


----------



## Mega Man

neither did i lol.... i learned the hard way, if you look really close at my builds you can see i still use the black ones... i just hide them hehe


----------



## RoughneckGeek

Next time use these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF3CCVU/

You can cut off just enough to put on the tool(s) you're using to protect the paint on the Lok-Seal. I've never used that trick for building a computer before, but it's come in handy for other things. I'll have to remember to do this when I finish my case mod and order my water cooling parts.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one of the many reasons i buy the chrome ones !!! i was set on black, ended up with a few pair of the chromeones... and fell in love. they just look gorgeous !


You can put the end of the LRT in hot water for a couple of seconds. That would give you more flexibility in handling it and then would be a breeze to fit in any fittings (including lok-seal from Swiftech).

hope that helps

Cheers


----------



## grunion

So I'm monitoring my Glacer pump with my oc panel.
The pump speed is constantly going from ~2700-3500rpm, any cause for concern?


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> So I'm monitoring my Glacer pump with my oc panel.
> The pump speed is constantly going from ~2700-3500rpm, any cause for concern?


how hot is the cpu running? did you set a custom fan profile in the motherboard? i have the same motherboard and an H220 with the fan profile set to turbo in the bios and it stays between 1800-2500 RPM. higher if i'm stress testing


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> So I'm monitoring my Glacer pump with my oc panel.
> The pump speed is constantly going from ~2700-3500rpm, any cause for concern?


I believe that's the normal mid to high range for that pump.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I fail to see the point in running the pump anything above minimum since its effect on temps was 1 degree on my case. 1150 vs 3000rpm netter me exactly 1 degree of temp drop on a 4770K @ 1.340v under linx.
Ofcourse I didnt have anything else then the default H220 in the loop, perhaps you need to raise the rpm on the pump if u have extra rads or blocks, but as a unit just for your CPU minimum is best IMHO.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sorry, I think I read your question wrong. Connecting the splitter to a fan controller will not give you any speed control over the devices connected to the splitter. This is because as I stated above, most fan controllers use voltage regulation and this won't work with this PWM splitter. All of the device connected to the splitter in this way will just run at full speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Ohh... sorry. Just found the white paper about that


Hi guys, I have a couple of the Zalman MFC1 Combo Fan Controllers, and the PWM output on that works really well with my Swiftech H220 and MCP35x. It also have a pass-through cable that reports back RPM to the motherboard header. I don't know if it is still available, last one I got was old stock at a local retailer.

I also have a Zalman PWM Fan mate, and it works somewhat, it doesn't have the full spectrum so to speak, I can't adjust fans or pumps all the way down with it. Maybe only half "range" at the top end I think.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a couple of the Zalman MFC1 Combo Fan Controllers, and the PWM output on that works really well with my Swiftech H220 and MCP35x. It also have a pass-through cable that reports back RPM to the motherboard header. I don't know if it is still available, last one I got was old stock at a local retailer.
> 
> I also have a Zalman PWM Fan mate, and it works somewhat, it doesn't have the full spectrum so to speak, I can't adjust fans or pumps all the way down with it. Maybe only half "range" at the top end I think.


I've never used either of those products, but so long as they offer true PWM support you should be able to use them with this pump.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

How do people find the pump noise on the H220/320?

I own the original 320 Drive, and the pump on it is rather noisy. Partially due to being attached to the rad i guess, I'm surprised there aren't quieter pumps around as even with AIO sealed units i've read plenty of users mention the noisy pump on them.

I like the idea of having a simple loop setup with just 2 parts and no separate res, but the noise can be annoying. Makes me want to think about getting a large quiet air cooler like the NHD14 next time i upgrade.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> How do people find the pump noise on the H220/320?
> 
> I own the original 320 Drive, and the pump on it is rather noisy. Partially due to being attached to the rad i guess, I'm surprised there aren't quieter pumps around as even with AIO sealed units i've read plenty of users mention the noisy pump on them.
> 
> I like the idea of having a simple loop setup with just 2 parts and no separate res, but the noise can be annoying. Makes me want to think about getting a large quiet air cooler like the NHD14 next time i upgrade.


If using it as an AIO, turn the pump way down. 1500 rpm is sufficient for 99% cooling performance in loops with only one block.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can put the end of the LRT in hot water for a couple of seconds. That would give you more flexibility in handling it and then would be a breeze to fit in any fittings (including lok-seal from Swiftech).


The sad part is that I knew this and was just to excited about it to remember... At least you learn from your experiences lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoughneckGeek*
> 
> Next time use these - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF3CCVU/
> 
> You can cut off just enough to put on the tool(s) you're using to protect the paint on the Lok-Seal. I've never used that trick for building a computer before, but it's come in handy for other things. I'll have to remember to do this when I finish my case mod and order my water cooling parts.


Awesome thanks for the tip! I was wondering about a way to use rubber for this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If using it as an AIO, turn the pump way down. 1500 rpm is sufficient for 99% cooling performance in loops with only one block.


If I expand the loop then would you suggest taking it off the CPU header and use it at full rpms?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> The sad part is that I knew this and was just to excited about it to remember... At least you learn from your experiences lol
> Awesome thanks for the tip! I was wondering about a way to use rubber for this
> If I expand the loop then would you suggest taking it off the CPU header and use it at full rpms?


Even in an expanded loop you shouldn't have to run the pump at full speed. I would only suggest running it at full speed if you are adding more than just a single video card and an extra radiator.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablo85*
> 
> how hot is the cpu running? did you set a custom fan profile in the motherboard? i have the same motherboard and an H220 with the fan profile set to turbo in the bios and it stays between 1800-2500 RPM. higher if i'm stress testing


Just sitting at desktop (idle) watching the readout.
I was using the standard profile, have since switched to manual, min 40%, max 60%.
Now it runs 2600-2800rpm and whisper quiet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I believe that's the normal mid to high range for that pump.


Good to know


----------



## selk22

Thanks Bryan









I had another question also that I posted a page or so back but it was in a wall of text so I don't know if anyone saw it.

Would adding another 140mm Helix in P/P make much of a difference on a single 140mm Rad? Specifically in this case the xt45


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Thanks Bryan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had another question also that I posted a page or so back but it was in a wall of text so I don't know if anyone saw it.
> 
> Would adding another 140mm Helix in P/P make much of a difference on a single 140mm Rad? Specifically in this case the xt45


I really don't know. You would have to try it and see. I would think that if it did make any difference at all, it probably wouldn't be more than a degree or two at best.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I really don't know. You would have to try it and see. I would think that if it did make any difference at all, it probably wouldn't be more than a degree or two at best.






Thats my thinking on this one to.. I don't think it can honestly be justified


----------



## halsoy

So, I'm pretty much set on the H320 at this point, but I've read that there has been some pump issues. Anyone here with experience know if this has been resolved, or was it just the normal % of error that got a bit blown up? Want that unit so bad, and it's the only tripple 120mm AIO I can get a hold of.


----------



## delpy8

i recently got the h320 and its great and have had no issues at all


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halsoy*
> 
> So, I'm pretty much set on the H320 at this point, but I've read that there has been some pump issues. Anyone here with experience know if this has been resolved, or was it just the normal % of error that got a bit blown up? Want that unit so bad, and it's the only tripple 120mm AIO I can get a hold of.


Normal % of error being blown up. Especially here. The H320 also has the latest impeller revision. It's a great unit, highly recommended







.


----------



## halsoy

I'll order it later this week then for sure. Will be a nice addition to my 800D, finally get some water cooling in this thing. So great that it even supports expansion, should I be interested in that down the line.


----------



## Snyderman34

Another question: I have an H220. Is it possible (if one wanted) to simply buy an H320 rad? Right now the options for adding my 290 to my loop is either to add a single 120mm rad or replace the H220 rad. Not sure which I'd rather do (replacing rad means it stays on top of my 600T, which I like the sound of)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Another question: I have an H220. Is it possible (if one wanted) to simply buy an H320 rad? Right now the options for adding my 290 to my loop is either to add a single 120mm rad or replace the H220 rad. Not sure which I'd rather do (replacing rad means it stays on top of my 600T, which I like the sound of)


We don't currently sell the radiators for these kits separately. What you would need to do is purchase an MCR 320 QP radiator with the built in reservoir. You'll also need to purchase some 3\8 by 5\8 fittings to connect everything.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> i recently got the h320 and its great and have had no issues at all


Same here, only had mine for one month but so far the pump+fans have been dead silent at idle ~1700rpm. When stressed at ~2400rpm there is an audible but not too intrusive whir and background hum of the fans - I'm thinking the whir must be the pump. When touching the pump itself during stress there is no vibration, but there is noticeably increased vibration when touching the tubing near the pump. I guess the pump is either making something vibrate to cause the noise, or the whir from within it can somehow be heard but not felt.


----------



## 66racer

Is there a way to tell if an h220 has the rev2 pump without taking it apart? A new one went up for sale locally and am thinking about it.


----------



## MrStick89

I have a corsair 400r and the only other spot I can put a radiator is on the bottom of the case, is that too much strain on the pump? Really itching to get my 290x underwater!


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStick89*
> 
> I have a corsair 400r and the only other spot I can put a radiator is on the bottom of the case, is that too much strain on the pump? Really itching to get my 290x underwater!


I don't think it would be a strain, but with the rad in the bottom of the case you could have an issue with air bubbles (since the res is on the rad). Someone on on here (can't think of their username) added a small res above his pump to stop that issue, so that could be an option.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halsoy*
> 
> So, I'm pretty much set on the H320 at this point, but I've read that there has been some pump issues. Anyone here with experience know if this has been resolved, or was it just the normal % of error that got a bit blown up? Want that unit so bad, and it's the only tripple 120mm AIO I can get a hold of.


From what I know most if not all of those who had issues came from the h220 as the h320 as the revised pump unit. The replacement pump i got came from an h320 I believe. Just take note that each pump has a different noise/tone when its running, I've been through 2 h220 kits and a new pump and all 3 sound totally different.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If using it as an AIO, turn the pump way down. 1500 rpm is sufficient for 99% cooling performance in loops with only one block.


It's not possible to adjust the pump speed on it, it's the first model. One before the 320 Edge.
The 3 Scythe GT 1150RPM fans on it are very quiet, the pump however is pretty noisy in comparison. Pretty much how Tom from oc3d summed up the 320 Edge with the pump noise being diabolical, does not help that it is built into the radiator, but it seems the H320/220 isn't much better for noise at least at full speed. And looking at some performance graphs the H220 is around 2c cooler than the Phantek air cooler. I personally would expect better while being at least as quiet, but just my opinion.

I'm not really sure how pump noise is on those being controllable, whether it's similar to a lone pump. Being attached to the CPU block in the h220/320 i would expect it to be quieter since it's not stuck in a rad this time but again according to oc3d it's not.. So i have no idea really, conflicting opinions & results in reviews.

I liked the XT waterblock though, it was very easy to install.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> It's not possible to adjust the pump speed on it, it's the first model. One before the 320 Edge.
> The 3 Scythe GT 1150RPM fans on it are very quiet, the pump however is pretty noisy in comparison. Pretty much how Tom from oc3d summed up the 320 Edge with the pump noise being diabolical, does not help that it is built into the radiator, but it seems the H320/220 isn't much better for noise at least at full speed. And looking at some performance graphs the H220 is around 2c cooler than the Phantek air cooler. I personally would expect better while being at least as quiet, but just my opinion.
> 
> I'm not really sure how pump noise is on those being controllable, whether it's similar to a lone pump. Being attached to the CPU block in the h220/320 i would expect it to be quieter since it's not stuck in a rad this time but again according to oc3d it's not.. So i have no idea really, conflicting opinions & results in reviews.
> 
> I liked the XT waterblock though, it was very easy to install.


I generally like Tom's reviews, but his review of the H220 was just utter crap. As a former reviewer I can tell when a review is just a biased opinion and has nothing to do with the actual performance of the product. To prove my point all you have to do is watch the review and ask yourself how can it still possibly receive a gold award when he basically trashed it through the whole review? It just doesn't add up. There are many other reviews of these kits that are much more fair than Tom's was. I'll admit that at full speed the pump on these kits can be a little noisy. But if you set it at around 50 to 60% it's going be quieter than most fan noise.


----------



## Pelinox

So just got my new NCASE M1 and a refurbished H220, now the installation can somewhat begin. However, i have been watching the video on how to prep the cooler for the GPU on youtube, i wonder if it's really such a problem to cut both tubes? It would really help - spacewise - to cut both tubes down as they are way too long for the NCASE.

Is it not adviceable to cut the inlet tube, or can/will it cause trouble with air?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pelinox*
> 
> So just got my new NCASE M1 and a refurbished H220, now the installation can somewhat begin. However, i have been watching the video on how to prep the cooler for the GPU on youtube, i wonder if it's really such a problem to cut both tubes? It would really help - spacewise - to cut both tubes down as they are way too long for the NCASE.
> 
> Is it not adviceable to cut the inlet tube, or can/will it cause trouble with air?


PM me and I can help you with this. It will depend on how you set up and prep the pump.


----------



## Gil80

Although the replaced H220 is more slient than the first one, this one still have an annoying buzzing noise:






Why is that? can it be fixed? Honestly, there's no use over 2200RPM for this pump...


----------



## zephcdj

Anyone have an idea when Newegg/NCIX/whoever will have more of these in stock? Trying to get a new build up and running and an H220/240L is all I need.


----------



## Thrasher1016

So I got mine Thursday, and due to a weekend away (most of mine are, unfortunately), I wasn't able to do anything until last night, but I got some work done!





*AAAAAAND I butchered it!*









Finished product when the DiH2O goes in tonight!!!

Thanks - T


----------



## outofmyheadyo

imo theres no use over 1150rpm since all i managed to get was 1c of diffrence between 1150rpm and 3000rpm and that was on a linx 1.340v 4770k


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> So I got mine Thursday, and due to a weekend away (most of mine are, unfortunately), I wasn't able to do anything until last night, but I got some work done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AAAAAAND I butchered it!*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished product when the DiH2O goes in tonight!!!
> 
> Thanks - T


Looks great! Curiou though- if you're just using the pump/block, why not just get an Apogee Drive II?


----------



## ivanlabrie

This is cheaper?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Looks great! Curiou though- if you're just using the pump/block, why not just get an Apogee Drive II?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> This is cheaper?


That, but especially 'cause I had a Newegg coupon in my email!

Another thing to note; I can always go back to stock config. and have an "AIO" instead of separate components like I do now, and since this is made to be modular, I'm not really hurting anything for the work I'm doing.
Oh, and anyway, ALL of the other parts were already in my inventory. I didn't have to buy a single thing to do this "modification", so it works out well!

Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> That, but especially 'cause I had a Newegg coupon in my email!
> 
> Another thing to note; I can always go back to stock config. and have an "AIO" instead of separate components like I do now, and since this is made to be modular, I'm not really hurting anything for the work I'm doing.
> Oh, and anyway, ALL of the other parts were already in my inventory. I didn't have to buy a single thing to do this "modification", so it works out well!
> 
> Thanks - T


The newegg coupon makes sense.

As far as cheaper, the APD2 can be bought at Hellfire PC for $118, so it's actually the cheaper product, although it doesn't have the other components.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The newegg coupon makes sense.
> 
> As far as cheaper, the APD2 can be bought at Hellfire PC for $118, so it's actually the cheaper product, although it doesn't have the other components.


Can you link it I cant find it. Thinking that was a clearance price or im looking at the wrong site.


----------



## Phelan

Oh wow, nvm then. I looked and can't that price any more lol. I bought mine just a couple months ago.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Oh wow, nvm then. I looked and can't that price any more lol. I bought mine just a couple months ago.


No worries, I was hoping I was just missing it lol All good


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> imo theres no use over 1150rpm since all i managed to get was 1c of diffrence between 1150rpm and 3000rpm and that was on a linx 1.340v 4770k


Something is wrong with your measurements, since water temperature should vary A LOT.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Something is wrong with your measurements, since water temperature should vary A LOT.


No they shouldn't. Not under stock usage. In other words the kit hasn't been expanded. What he's saying is that when the system is under the same amount of stress and ambient conditions, it really doesn't make any difference if you run the pump at minimum speed or full speed. Your delta temperature will only be about a degree less when the pump is run at full speed as opposed to minimum speed. Our own testing has shown this to be about right.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> imo theres no use over 1150rpm since all i managed to get was 1c of diffrence between 1150rpm and 3000rpm and that was on a linx 1.340v 4770k


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No they shouldn't. Not under stock usage. In other words the kit hasn't been expanded. What he's saying is that when the system is under the same amount of stress and ambient conditions, it really doesn't make any difference if you run the pump at minimum speed or full speed. Your delta temperature will only be about a degree less when the pump is run at full speed as opposed to minimum speed. Our own testing has shown this to be about right.


Are we talking about pump or fan speed? 'Cause I thought he was referring to fan speed


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> Are we talking about pump or fan speed? 'Cause I thought he was referring to fan speed


The fans max out at 1800 RPM so he has to be talking about the pump. Fan speed would be an entirely different story.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Can you link it I cant find it. Thinking that was a clearance price or im looking at the wrong site.


Here's one: http://www.jab-tech.com/cpu-blocks/swiftech-apogee-drive-ii-2011/


----------



## Phelan

BOOM.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The fans max out at 1800 RPM so he has to be talking about the pump. Fan speed would be an entirely different story.


I didnt use the provided helix fans I had the Gentle typhoon AP-15s on it and 10 min linx run just had 1 degree difference min vs max pump speed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I didnt use the provided helix fans I had the Gentle typhoon AP-15s on it and 10 min linx run just had 1 degree difference min vs max pump speed.


Well I didn't know which fans you were using, but the pump maxes out at three thousand RPM. So I just figured that you had to be talking about the pump speed.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Well I didn't know which fans you were using, but the pump maxes out at three thousand RPM. So I just figured that you had to be talking about the pump speed.


I was


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I generally like Tom's reviews, but his review of the H220 was just utter crap. As a former reviewer I can tell when a review is just a biased opinion and has nothing to do with the actual performance of the product. To prove my point all you have to do is watch the review and ask yourself how can it still possibly receive a gold award when he basically trashed it through the whole review? It just doesn't add up. There are many other reviews of these kits that are much more fair than Tom's was. I'll admit that at full speed the pump on these kits can be a little noisy. But if you set it at around 50 to 60% it's going be quieter than most fan noise.


I had to quote this.

I enjoyed Tom's reviews for a couple years now but I unsubscribed when I saw his H220 review. It was always clear he was a Corsair fanboy. Whatever that's his thing, I get it. But to straight out diss a product that has been proven time and time again to have better thermals and acoustics then his H100i (which he speaks so highly of) is about as shady as a review could possibly get. I will not tolerate biased reviews.

Dunno, he's good at what he does but it's one of those things where if you lie to me once I will take your words with a grain of salt.

Anyway. My h220 still running strong. Gonna expand it a bit with a 680L Aqua block and probably... 240mm/280mm UT45 rad up front. Got about 50mm of space between the fan and hdd tray so it should be good.



And yes ladies and gentlemen, that is a RIVE inside an Arc Midi R2 (newegg $59 sale). LOVE it!


----------



## Mega Man

well finally installed my h220, ironically it is a temp till i get off my bum and have my wifes res custom built.

but looks good, did not get to stress it. i did install it on a CVFz without issue or modification. i did leak test it for several days but i gotta say the install was painless, less then 5 min, i really think swiftech has the best mounting.... period

granted i have learned the tricks from my apogee hds but still. amazing. sounds great and i have to say, i am wowed with the helix fans. i still prefer swiftechs other fans, but i dont care about acoustics lol . i think i am going to buy another 20 my next purchase from them...


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I had to quote this.
> 
> I enjoyed Tom's reviews for a couple years now but I unsubscribed when I saw his H220 review. It was always clear he was a Corsair fanboy. Whatever that's his thing, I get it. But to straight out diss a product that has been proven time and time again to have better thermals and acoustics then his H100i (which he speaks so highly of) is about as shady as a review could possibly get. I will not tolerate biased reviews.
> 
> Dunno, he's good at what he does but it's one of those things where if you lie to me once I will take your words with a grain of salt.
> 
> Anyway. My h220 still running strong. Gonna expand it a bit with a 680L Aqua block and probably... 240mm/280mm UT45 rad up front. Got about 50mm of space between the fan and hdd tray so it should be good.
> 
> 
> 
> And yes ladies and gentlemen, that is a RIVE inside an Arc Midi R2 (newegg $59 sale). LOVE it!


Very nice clean build! Love it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well finally installed my h220, ironically it is a temp till i get off my bum and have my wifes res custom built.
> 
> but looks good, did not get to stress it. i did install it on a CVFz without issue or modification. i did leak test it for several days but i gotta say the install was painless, less then 5 min, i really think swiftech has the best mounting.... period
> 
> granted i have learned the tricks from my apogee hds but still. amazing. sounds great and i have to say, i am wowed with the helix fans. i still prefer swiftechs other fans, but i dont care about acoustics lol . i think i am going to buy another 20 my next purchase from them...


Congrats!

Here's mine, dropped temps from 85c to 56c under load running XTU, at 22c ambients.

I haven't finished with my case mod, that's why my case is so weird and horrific








She'll be pretty soon, but meanwhile it does the job.




Quick question, is my mount ok? I had to revert the spot where the fans mount, and have the part where the tubing meets the rad at the top (it's a front 240 mount in my modded case...used to be the top of my CM 690 II). Will that hurt the res or performance?

Coolermaster did a great job with their implementation, it looks real good and the extra strong fans and pump are a plus in my book.
Then again, Swiftech is the bomb for coming up with these amazing kits


----------



## crabula

Are my temps abnormal for a H320 on a 4670K?

1.25Vcore, high 70's celsius with prime95... I'm seeing people getting these temps at 1.38V :O Ambient is about 20C ..

Edit: I think I put too much TIM-mate on, but I've read that should only affect temps by about 5C.


----------



## Playerxl

I know it's not a fair comparison.. But on my 4770K w/ H320 and 1.25Vcore I get with Prime95 max 65 degrees.. but didn't tested it for long.. only for 30 min or something..


----------



## ivanlabrie

It depends on how good is the tim job between the IHS and the die...I've grown tired of Intel's mainstream platform for that reason, and limited cpu headroom for 3d benching. (saving for a 4930k







)

Anyone knows if the way my rad is mounted is safe?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> It depends on how good is the tim job between the IHS and the die...I've grown tired of Intel's mainstream platform for that reason, and limited cpu headroom for 3d benching. (saving for a 4930k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyone knows if the way my rad is mounted is safe?


If the reservoir is located at the bottom this will cause issues later on when evaporation starts to occur. The reservoir should be placed above the pump so that it can act as a proper air trap to prevent air from getting caught in the pump.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

So I've had my Swiftech H220 since mid March and unfortunately it has developed a slight knocking/clicking sound when running it over 40% pump speed. At 30% it seems to go away. Before I could hear the sound of water over 45% so I just ran it below that. Now I hear it pretty much at any pump speed. The water sound wasn't really a big deal but this knocking is worrying me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> So I've had my Swiftech H220 since mid March and unfortunately it has developed a slight knocking/clicking sound when running it over 40% pump speed. At 30% it seems to go away. Before I could hear the sound of water over 45% so I just ran it below that. Now I hear it pretty much at any pump speed. The water sound wasn't really a big deal but this knocking is worrying me.


Have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? If not, let me know if that works for you. I recently was reminded of an old remedy for removing air that might also work. If you kink the tubing coming off of the outlet barb for a couple of seconds and then release it, this can also help with purging air and make the pump quiet down. It's an old trick that works well for pumps that aren't quite as powerful as the D5 or DC Laing pumps.


----------



## link1393

I have a question for you, Can I mount the H220 in a Zalman Z11 with a Crosshair V Formula ?

I know the motherboard is incompatible, but I see this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/5050#post_20457831

Thanks


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the reservoir is located at the bottom this will cause issues later on when evaporation starts to occur. The reservoir should be placed above the pump so that it can act as a proper air trap to prevent air from getting caught in the pump.


Hmmm, gonna have to figure out how to mount it that way, since it won't fit like that...how long would evaporation take to kick in?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Hmmm, gonna have to figure out how to mount it that way, since it won't fit like that...how long would evaporation take to kick in?


It will vary depending on the temperature of the coolant and the temperature of your ambient surrounds. It could take a few weeks to a few months depending on the aforementioned conditions.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I generally like Tom's reviews, but his review of the H220 was just utter crap. As a former reviewer I can tell when a review is just a biased opinion and has nothing to do with the actual performance of the product. To prove my point all you have to do is watch the review and ask yourself how can it still possibly receive a gold award when he basically trashed it through the whole review? It just doesn't add up. There are many other reviews of these kits that are much more fair than Tom's was. I'll admit that at full speed the pump on these kits can be a little noisy. But if you set it at around 50 to 60% it's going be quieter than most fan noise.


What about his 320 Edge review though? He was spot on with the pump noise being loud, which i sadly found out after i had already got the earlier version, which cannot be adjusted at all. He did claim better temps were to be had with the XSPC kit which was £100 cheaper at the time too. As well as being quieter in regards to pump noise (don't know if true)

Though with the H220 review it is odd that he gave it a gold after bashing it, he did mention again the noisy pump. Do you think he fabricated his results with the H220 then? I wish you guys could make a better and very quiet sounding pump either built on a waterblock or into the radiator, i'm not sure which produces the quietest noise but i suppose it'd be the one on the block. I wonder if it's possible to get it as silent as a lone pump?

If you made an easy to install system like this with a smooth quiet pump sound i would buy it without question, but it seems as it is it tends to be louder than 1000rpm fans and is not a smooth noise which takes away from having a very quiet system overall.

Do you have any plans to make quieter pumps or are they practically as quiet as they're going to get?

I don't see why it wouldn't be possible, in tests having the pump on low compared to full barely makes a 1-2c difference by the seems of it.

Thanks for responding also.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> What about his 320 Edge review though? He was spot on with the pump noise being loud, which i sadly found out after i had already got the earlier version, which cannot be adjusted at all. He did claim better temps were to be had with the XSPC kit which was £100 cheaper at the time too. As well as being quieter in regards to pump noise (don't know if true)
> 
> Though with the H220 review it is odd that he gave it a gold after bashing it, he did mention again the noisy pump. Do you think he fabricated his results with the H220 then? I wish you guys could make a better and very quiet sounding pump either built on a waterblock or into the radiator, i'm not sure which produces the quietest noise but i suppose it'd be the one on the block. I wonder if it's possible to get it as silent as a lone pump?
> 
> If you made an easy to install system like this with a smooth quiet pump sound i would buy it without question, but it seems as it is it tends to be louder than 1000rpm fans and is not a smooth noise which takes away from having a very quiet system overall.
> 
> Do you have any plans to make quieter pumps or are they practically as quiet as they're going to get?
> 
> I don't see why it wouldn't be possible, in tests having the pump on low compared to full barely makes a 1-2c difference by the seems of it.
> 
> Thanks for responding also.


Our pumps on the Drive radiator units, the Apogee Drive II, and the H220/ H320 can be turned down via PWM to silent levels. I've got an H220 kit on my work computer sitting next to me. I can hear the fan noise of the power supply and that's it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I have a question for you, Can I mount the H220 in a Zalman Z11 with a Crosshair V Formula ?
> 
> I know the motherboard is incompatible, but I see this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/5050#post_20457831
> 
> Thanks


Z11 do not have the correct mounting for a rad. The top fans are too far apart to work. Also there is no clearance to fit.
You would need to get a case like the Arc Midi R2 or Corsair 540. That will give you room.

A lesson is if you plan to do watercooling, then make sure you get a case that will correctly support it.


----------



## Scorpion667

I can't hear my H220 pump at all and the PC is a foot away from my chair. It's PWM controlled and during my normal gaming usage it stays between 20-30% PWM, or under 1850 rpm as per my custom speed curve.

My cougar 140mm fan at 600 rpm is louder then the H220 pump... So I don't really understand where you're getting this from Perfect_Chaos. As far as the 320 edge, I could just hear the concept of design and tell you it's going to be loud. Even Tom says in the review, because the pump is bolted on to the radiator which is thin metal, the radiator will resonate the sound. Our discussion was more so pertaining the H220 review he did.

And i'm not sure how it is possible that it's not adjustable.
3 pin = fan controller
pwm = motherboard
molex = make a make molex to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
sata = make a female sata to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller

there's always a way...


----------



## passinos

just got my H220 from NCIX.CA.
Pump is completely quiet.

idle 2000rpm
load 2600rpm (still cant hear pump over GPU fan)

3770k at 4.2 in BF3/4 = CPU always lower than 45c


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I have a question for you, Can I mount the H220 in a Zalman Z11 with a Crosshair V Formula ?
> 
> I know the motherboard is incompatible, but I see this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/5050#post_20457831
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Z11 do not have the correct mounting for a rad. The top fans are too far apart to work. Also there is no clearance to fit.
> You would need to get a case like the Arc Midi R2 or Corsair 540. That will give you room.
> 
> A lesson is if you plan to do watercooling, then make sure you get a case that will correctly support it.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I can't hear my H220 pump at all and the PC is a foot away from my chair. It's PWM controlled and during my normal gaming usage it stays between 20-30% PWM, or under 1850 rpm as per my custom speed curve.
> 
> My cougar 140mm fan at 600 rpm is louder then the H220 pump... So I don't really understand where you're getting this from Perfect_Chaos. As far as the 320 edge, I could just hear the concept of design and tell you it's going to be loud. Even Tom says in the review, because the pump is bolted on to the radiator which is thin metal, the radiator will resonate the sound. Our discussion was more so pertaining the H220 review he did.
> 
> And i'm not sure how it is possible that it's not adjustable.
> 3 pin = fan controller
> pwm = motherboard
> molex = make a make molex to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> sata = make a female sata to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> 
> there's always a way...


320 Drive (rev 1) it is not speed adjustable in any way as it comes. I believe it's using the MCP350 pump, so it's always running full speed @ 3800rpm apparently. Though i'm pretty sure that speed fluctuates at least a little bit because the noise isn't constant on it. But it is a fair bit louder than my 3 Scythe GT's at 1150rpm for sure, those fans are a whisper in comparison. Is the difference with the H220 pump being on the block, over built into the rad that big? Acoustics wise? If it's possible to get the noise of the pump below the sound of quiet fans i would find it acceptable, but left at full speed it is a bit annoying.

I'd be more inclined to believe Linus when he says it's quiet @ low rpm on the h220, and loud left untouched. But what kind of noise do they produce at low rpm's? I hate anything that has whine or high pitched noise to it. This is why i got the Scythe GT fans, they really are quiet and have a nice tone to them. But this pump @ full speed, irritating is the only word i can use to describe it. Watercooling is supposed to be really quiet with nice performance if that's what someone chooses, but it can't be with this pump at full whack at least.

Also i noticed Linus left out pump speeds with the H220 in his final results for some reason.

When i start building a new computer i'll probably get a different cooler to this 320 Drive i have now, it's currently attached to the back of my case, i'll probably look into the H320 or something. Something that is quieter and can be installed inside the case at least.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> 320 Drive (rev 1) it is not speed adjustable in any way as it comes. I believe it's using the MCP350 pump, so it's always running full speed @ 3800rpm apparently. Though i'm pretty sure that speed fluctuates at least a little bit because the noise isn't constant on it. But it is a fair bit louder than my 3 Scythe GT's at 1150rpm for sure, those fans are a whisper in comparison. Is the difference with the H220 pump being on the block, over built into the rad that big? Acoustics wise? If it's possible to get the noise of the pump below the sound of quiet fans i would find it acceptable, but left at full speed it is a bit annoying.
> 
> I'd be more inclined to believe Linus when he says it's quiet @ low rpm on the h220, and loud left untouched. But what kind of noise do they produce at low rpm's? I hate anything that has whine or high pitched noise to it. This is why i got the Scythe GT fans, they really are quiet and have a nice tone to them. But this pump @ full speed, irritating is the only word i can use to describe it. Watercooling is supposed to be really quiet with nice performance if that's what someone chooses, but it can't be with this pump at full whack at least.
> 
> Also i noticed Linus left out pump speeds with the H220 in his final results for some reason.
> 
> When i start building a new computer i'll probably get a different cooler to this 320 Drive i have now, it's currently attached to the back of my case, i'll probably look into the H320 or something. Something that is quieter and can be installed inside the case at least.


How is the pump powered? If molex, I personally would rewire it to a 3 pin and modulate it with a high-amp channeled fan controller, since it's likely voltage-modulated.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I have a question for you, Can I mount the H220 in a Zalman Z11 with a Crosshair V Formula ?
> 
> I know the motherboard is incompatible, but I see this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/5050#post_20457831
> 
> Thanks


fyi i dunno about that case but i did mount my h220 on my CVFz without mods. without issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I generally like Tom's reviews, but his review of the H220 was just utter crap. As a former reviewer I can tell when a review is just a biased opinion and has nothing to do with the actual performance of the product. To prove my point all you have to do is watch the review and ask yourself how can it still possibly receive a gold award when he basically trashed it through the whole review? It just doesn't add up. There are many other reviews of these kits that are much more fair than Tom's was. I'll admit that at full speed the pump on these kits can be a little noisy. But if you set it at around 50 to 60% it's going be quieter than most fan noise.
> 
> 
> 
> What about his 320 Edge review though? He was spot on with the pump noise being loud, which i sadly found out after i had already got the earlier version, which cannot be adjusted at all. He did claim better temps were to be had with the XSPC kit which was £100 cheaper at the time too. As well as being quieter in regards to pump noise (don't know if true)
> 
> Though with the H220 review it is odd that he gave it a gold after bashing it, he did mention again the noisy pump. Do you think he fabricated his results with the H220 then? I wish you guys could make a better and very quiet sounding pump either built on a waterblock or into the radiator, i'm not sure which produces the quietest noise but i suppose it'd be the one on the block. I wonder if it's possible to get it as silent as a lone pump?
> 
> If you made an easy to install system like this with a smooth quiet pump sound i would buy it without question, but it seems as it is it tends to be louder than 1000rpm fans and is not a smooth noise which takes away from having a very quiet system overall.
> 
> Do you have any plans to make quieter pumps or are they practically as quiet as they're going to get?
> 
> I don't see why it wouldn't be possible, in tests having the pump on low compared to full barely makes a 1-2c difference by the seems of it.
> 
> Thanks for responding also.
Click to expand...

i gotta tell you have have a 240 edge and granted i have speed adj on it ( mcp350x ) and i usually run them at full speed due to my setup. i have to tell you i never had an issue with the sound. granted i can hear the water rushing, but i like that. quad fire in full parallel i need a bit of ooommmph in my loop ( i run 3x 350x, may be upgrading to 4 soon though for S&Gs)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I can't hear my H220 pump at all and the PC is a foot away from my chair. It's PWM controlled and during my normal gaming usage it stays between 20-30% PWM, or under 1850 rpm as per my custom speed curve.
> 
> My cougar 140mm fan at 600 rpm is louder then the H220 pump... So I don't really understand where you're getting this from Perfect_Chaos. As far as the 320 edge, I could just hear the concept of design and tell you it's going to be loud. Even Tom says in the review, because the pump is bolted on to the radiator which is thin metal, the radiator will resonate the sound. Our discussion was more so pertaining the H220 review he did.
> 
> And i'm not sure how it is possible that it's not adjustable.
> 3 pin = fan controller
> pwm = motherboard
> molex = make a make molex to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> sata = make a female sata to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> 
> there's always a way...


my h220 i cant hear @ full speed with my ear in the case unless i shut off my fans, and even then it is very very faint , and i have fairly decent hearing


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> 320 Drive (rev 1) it is not speed adjustable in any way as it comes. I believe it's using the MCP350 pump, so it's always running full speed @ 3800rpm apparently. Though i'm pretty sure that speed fluctuates at least a little bit because the noise isn't constant on it. But it is a fair bit louder than my 3 Scythe GT's at 1150rpm for sure, those fans are a whisper in comparison. Is the difference with the H220 pump being on the block, over built into the rad that big? Acoustics wise? If it's possible to get the noise of the pump below the sound of quiet fans i would find it acceptable, but left at full speed it is a bit annoying.
> 
> I'd be more inclined to believe Linus when he says it's quiet @ low rpm on the h220, and loud left untouched. But what kind of noise do they produce at low rpm's? I hate anything that has whine or high pitched noise to it. This is why i got the Scythe GT fans, they really are quiet and have a nice tone to them. But this pump @ full speed, irritating is the only word i can use to describe it. Watercooling is supposed to be really quiet with nice performance if that's what someone chooses, but it can't be with this pump at full whack at least.
> 
> Also i noticed Linus left out pump speeds with the H220 in his final results for some reason.
> 
> When i start building a new computer i'll probably get a different cooler to this 320 Drive i have now, it's currently attached to the back of my case, i'll probably look into the H320 or something. Something that is quieter and can be installed inside the case at least.


Please go back and read my post. I already gave you the solution to quiet down your pump. What part did you not understand, maybe I can help?
"3 pin = fan controller
pwm = motherboard
molex = make a male molex to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
sata = make a male sata to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller

there's always a way..."

You can control the rpm of any watercooling pump using the above solutions

As for the other info you requested,
H220 pump:
min speed: 1500rpm
max speed: 3000rpm
extremely quiet
difference between 20% (1500 rpm) and 100% (3000 rpm) is 2c at max load. At 1500 rpm it's inaudible unless I put my ear physically next to it. At 3000rpm I can hear it, but it's not loud. At 2000 RPM my low speed fans drown out the pump sound


----------



## Thrasher1016

I already did my leak testing on my hybrid 240L / custom loop setup last night, and everything's fine!
Pumps like a dream, and since that's the only component I'm using, I'll report back with a final pic and a report...
...When the bloody thing boots...
I have other problems, obviously!

Thanks - T


----------



## ivanlabrie

I had to rotate my case back to the original position to keep the reservoir over the cpu block.
I can't mount it the way it is advised in my CM 690 II (top spot, only takes the rad with the reservoir pointing to the board and closer to the 5.25 bay and I need it to be closer to the rear exhaust fan port to effectively be higher than the pump when my case is rotated).










Any ideas?



That was my previous orientation and res positioning...


----------



## RoughneckGeek

Is the H20-X20 Elite likely to be more quiet than the H20-X20 Edge?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoughneckGeek*
> 
> Is the H20-X20 Elite likely to be more quiet than the H20-X20 Edge?


They both use the same PWM controlled pump and from my experience produce about the same amount of noise.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Just how far can you expand a H220/G240L? CF5FZ with a pair of 7950's. I'm considering 2 gpu blocks and a chipset block, all from EK Add a single 120.1 rad. Is this feasible? If so, would a reservoir be advisable? thx


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Just how far can you expand a H220/G240L? CF5FZ with a pair of 7950's. I'm considering 2 gpu blocks and a chipset block, all from EK Add a single 120.1 rad. Is this feasible? If so, would a reservoir be advisable? thx


I'll let a Swiftech guy speak to the length of that loop, but those parts, even when adding a 120.1 radiator, will be too much for the radiator space you are speaking of.
I'm assuming you're overclocking, given you're here.









Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Just how far can you expand a H220/G240L? CF5FZ with a pair of 7950's. I'm considering 2 gpu blocks and a chipset block, all from EK Add a single 120.1 rad. Is this feasible? If so, would a reservoir be advisable? thx


I think that would be right around the limits. At that point, I'd say the 240L at max would be fine, the H220/320 may have trouble.


----------



## selk22

Man I love this h220.... Thanks Swiftech for getting it right this time! Reporting back about a week since iv expanded the loop and its still behaving admirably no problems with air bubbles or nasty noises









On the subject of what the h220 can handle or not.. Is it a bad idea to add a pump/res combo to the h220 loop? If i was to say add more components and rads would this help/hurt or be totally useless? Would it need to be the exact same pump or something similar.. Thanks for help here guys.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Just how far can you expand a H220/G240L? CF5FZ with a pair of 7950's. I'm considering 2 gpu blocks and a chipset block, all from EK Add a single 120.1 rad. Is this feasible? If so, would a reservoir be advisable? thx


If you're planning to do any heavy overclocking I would consider adding an additional radiator. An additional 120.2 rad would actually be best if you can fit in your case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Man I love this h220.... Thanks Swiftech for getting it right this time! Reporting back about a week since iv expanded the loop and its still behaving admirably no problems with air bubbles or nasty noises
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the subject of what the h220 can handle or not.. Is it a bad idea to add a pump/res combo to the h220 loop? If i was to say add more components and rads would this help/hurt or be totally useless? Would it need to be the exact same pump or something similar.. Thanks for help here guys.


Adding an additional pump/res wouldn't be an issue. It also doesn't matter if it's a different pump. It will just add to the flow and head pressure of the loop. Redundancy will also be an added benefit because if one pump dies the other will be able to take over and keep the coolant moving.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm gonna have to get a Swiftech micro res sooner than I expected to if I can't mount the rad the way it fits with my rotated case...


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Adding an additional pump/res wouldn't be an issue. It also doesn't matter if it's a different pump. It will just add to the flow and head pressure of the loop. Redundancy will also be an added benefit because if one pump dies the other will be able to take over and keep the coolant moving.






That's what I was thinking.. Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking.. Thanks!


No problem and let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

So the knocking is kinda off and on with my H220 now but the water sound is still there. I've tried shaking it around and squeezing the tubing near the barbs. I think I just need to add some distilled water to it. Hopefully that fixes my problem.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I forget, does the H320 fit the Merlin SM8 up top with the drop in 480 rad mount?

Also I was told the triple rad version of the Glacier 240L is coming "soon".

Also, was the Glacier 240L actually released yet in the USA? I can't find it in stock anywhere.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I forget, does the H320 fit the Merlin SM8 up top with the drop in 480 rad mount?
> 
> Also I was told the triple rad version of the Glacier 240L is coming "soon".
> 
> Also, was the Glacier 240L actually released yet in the USA? I can't find it in stock anywhere.


To your last, yes, many of us have them, so it's here, but people keep buying them!

Thanks - T


----------



## ivanlabrie

A Glacer 320 would rain on my parade


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're planning to do any heavy overclocking I would consider adding an additional radiator. An additional 120.2 rad would actually be best if you can fit in your case.
> Adding an additional pump/res wouldn't be an issue. It also doesn't matter if it's a different pump. It will just add to the flow and head pressure of the loop. Redundancy will also be an added benefit because if one pump dies the other will be able to take over and keep the coolant moving.


Thanks. I well see if I can figure out if I have room for two 120.2 rads. I'm sure I would be good with just the cpu on the loop but I feel like overkill on this. I had not considered a second pump, all kinds of new ideas now.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Which case are you currently using? That will help to know if it will work.


----------



## Playerxl

Just finished my first watercooled pc. I have to say that sandwiching the H320 really brings temps down!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> Just finished my first watercooled pc. I have to say that sandwiching the H320 really brings temps down!


Looks great, but just as an FYI, it's not a good idea to mix fans like that. You will either sacrifice performance, damage the fans, or possibly both. Just thought you should be aware.

Martin of Martinsliquidlab has informed me that so long as the fans are within 500 RPM of each other you're probably going to be fine with mixing fans that run at different speeds. He's pretty much the authority on such matters and his research and testing methods are sound.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks great, but just as an FYI, it's not a good idea to mix fans like that. You will either sacrifice performance, damage the fans, or possibly both. Just thought you should be aware.


How do you mean mix the fans? I removed the stock fans on top of the rad and put it them on the bottom (because the enermax are a bit better), like this I can exchange the 3 stock fans with another 3 enermax fans (ordered - will arrive tomorrow I hope) easily, without removing the rad..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Playerxl*
> 
> How do you mean mix the fans? I removed the stock fans on top of the rad and put it them on the bottom (because the enermax are a bit better), like this I can exchange the 3 stock fans with another 3 enermax fans (ordered - will arrive tomorrow I hope) easily, without removing the rad..


I see. I wasn't aware that you were changing all of them for Enermax fans.


----------



## Playerxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I see. I wasn't aware that you were changing all of them for Enermax fans.


Oh yes... I didn't tell. but thanks for your advise! surely appreciated!


----------



## ivanlabrie

Any ideas regarding my top mounted Glacer 240l? I'm using a CM 690 II...
Might have to come up with a modded case top or get a res and drain the loop and put it somewhere else.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

RMA unit for the H220 arrived, and this one sounds like a tractor aswell


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> RMA unit for the H220 arrived, and this one sounds like a tractor aswell


Really? How long have you been running it for because I tested all of these myself before shipping them out. Aside from these new units producing a slight buzzing at the higher RPM range, which appears to be a result of this new impeller design, they all ran with almost no noise or vibration.

I'm sorry. I forgot that you were in Europe. I didn't test any of the kits that were sent as replacements in Europe. I'm very sorry to hear about this and let me know if you have any issues with getting the kit replaced with one that isn't as noisy.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Ill try to do more of those things reccomended in the first post but around an hour, anything over 2k rpm gives this high pitched whine, but everything under gives this brrrrrrrrr like somethings stuck there, ill try to get it out.


----------



## Kelwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Also, was the Glacier 240L actually released yet in the USA? I can't find it in stock anywhere.


Newegg shows them in stock currently.

I am running the 240L in a CM 690 III case. Keeping my 8350 nice and cool


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Ill try to do more of those things reccomended in the first post but around an hour, anything over 2k rpm gives this high pitched whine, but everything under gives this brrrrrrrrr like somethings stuck there, ill try to get it out.


It could just be an air bubble that got pushed into the pump during shipping. Let me know if the instructions in the OP aren't able to solve your issue.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Really? How long have you been running it for because I tested all of these myself before shipping them out. Aside from these new units producing a slight buzzing at the higher RPM range, which appears to be a result of this new impeller design, they all ran with almost no noise or vibration.
> 
> I'm sorry. I forgot that you were in Europe. I didn't test any of the kits that were sent as replacements in Europe. I'm very sorry to hear about this and let me know if you have any issues with getting the kit replaced with one that isn't as noisy.


You have been very helpful but i think im done with this h220 ordeal, ill just call it my loss, it seems to impossible to get a silent unit, ill just look for something else.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> You have been very helpful but i think im done with this h220 ordeal, ill just call it my loss, it seems to impossible to get a silent unit, ill just look for something else.


I'm very sorry to hear that. Please let me know if there is anything else I can do to assist you.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelwing*
> 
> Newegg shows them in stock currently.
> 
> I am running the 240L in a CM 690 III case. Keeping my 8350 nice and cool




You must have a different newegg than me


----------



## Pure2sin

Ok I am going to ask this here because I have searched and searched and cannot find the answer.

I want to use SpeedFan but every time I start Windows or wake-up windows from sleep mode the settings go back to 100.

Any instructions on how to get the fan settings to come on with start-up and keep them after sleep?

I have a fan controller for all the other fans on my system but use Speedfan for the H220 pump.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks great, but just as an FYI, it's not a good idea to mix fans like that. You will either sacrifice performance, damage the fans, or possibly both. Just thought you should be aware.


FYI, that is not correct. One common forum myth, like going outside..you'll catch a cold..









Show me one test that has statistically significant results to show mixing of similar fans or pumps is somehow detrimental to performance or lifespan. Sorry, but this is total forum myth and makes no scientific sense to me. I understand you may slightly increae RPM (and amperage) over a single fan scenario but the make or type has no real influence. They happily operate at differing rpms as there is no mechanical tie between motors.

I think the myth you reiterate stems from scenarios such as running the same tire sizes on a 4x4 pickup in which there is a mechanical tie between front and rear drive along with the near mechanical tie with the tire and pavement surface. The 4x4 tire size analogy is very different because you have two solid mechanical ties between each axel that conflicts with the pavement tie which is also very solid. Two independent fan motors have no mechanical tie between motors nor is there any mechanical tie in the air. All you have is a change in pressure/resistance and that doesn't matter what brand fan.

Saying you must match fans or pumps is no different than saying father and son can not both paddle a canoe at the same time. We have to stop thinking fans and pumps work like a tire on pavement. They do nothing more than produce a pressure vs flow rate curve and happily do so from 0 CFM at max pressure on down to max CFM at zero pressure.

Adding another fan in a similar RPM range does absolutely nothing more than reduce pressure and slide it's performance further down the PQ curve. This does increase current but running a fan in open air without any resistance is still likely going to result in a higher current draw. Take a multimeter and measure current yourself if you don't believe me.

Carry on but FYI, this is a myth and incorrect. Mixing fans and pumps of like rpm is perfectly fine.

In addition to understanding the science/theory, I have personally tested mixed fans AND pumps and have yet to find anything negative particularly if they are similar +-500 rpm. Sitting the fan on your desk without any restriction is more harmful than mixing two different fans. have to think about PQ curves and how it changes in each scenario. Or measure fan current draw in each condition, you'll see.

My 2c, hope it helps clarify this a bit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Martin, you're probably right. I may very well not be correct about mixing of fans. I guess that I've probably heard it quoted so many times that I just assumed that it was true. I do know that mixing of pumps in a loop isn't an issue. I guess I should have realized that if it isn't an issue for pumps then why would it be an issue for fans? Thank you for clarifying that and I will certainly defer to your knowledge on the subject.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Ok I am going to ask this here because I have searched and searched and cannot find the answer.
> 
> I want to use SpeedFan but every time I start Windows or wake-up windows from sleep mode the settings go back to 100.
> 
> Any instructions on how to get the fan settings to come on with start-up and keep them after sleep?
> 
> I have a fan controller for all the other fans on my system but use Speedfan for the H220 pump.


That could simply be an issue with your particular motherboard. You'll need to research your BIOS settings to find out what setting it needs to be at in order for it to keep your settings. It also may simply be the way your motherboard works. What board do you have and what settings are you using?


----------



## Kelwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> 
> 
> You must have a different newegg than me


My mistake. Was looking at the Eisberg 240L instead of Glacer 240L


----------



## Pure2sin

I have an ASrock Z77 extreme6. I may just run it off BIOS settings but right now I have them set to FULL ON in the BIOS so I can control them via SpeedFan. I will just have to keep researching. For some reasons I can't get the ASrock Fan Tuner program working either.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well gonna get it together tomorrow


----------



## ivanlabrie

You won't be disappointed mate!

My cpu maxed out at 83c with 29c ambients...1.51v and 4.8ghz, so pretty good for an i7 3820. (not my 24/7 clocks and volts, I prefer 4.65ghz with 1.38v)


----------



## Snyderman34

Got my 290 added into my H220



Temps actually seem pretty ok for now. Thinking I'm gonna redo the tubing though, probably add a Phobya 200mm rad later as well.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> You won't be disappointed mate!
> 
> My cpu maxed out at 83c with 29c ambients...1.51v and 4.8ghz, so pretty good for an i7 3820. (not my 24/7 clocks and volts, I prefer 4.65ghz with 1.38v)


Glad to hear it







29C ambient is on the warm side, you should be able to reduce those temps a bit.

I think it will take a good while to setup tomorrow, but i'm excited. Hoping that pin i bent back on my socket has no problems.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Glad to hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 29C ambient is on the warm side, you should be able to reduce those temps a bit.
> 
> I think it will take a good while to setup tomorrow, but i'm excited. Hoping that pin i bent back on my socket has no problems.


If it's straight it shouldn't be a problem...what kind of i7 is that you got there?

I run 4.65ghz with 1.38v for daily usage, since I mine primecoins with it...don't wanna use too much power while at it.


----------



## Blackops_2

3770K i got the board used and didn't notice the bent pin till late. It looks to be in line perfectly but looking over the board i can distinctly notice where it is. Also do i need to leak test my 240L? Just to be thorough?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 3770K i got the board used and didn't notice the bent pin till late. It looks to be in line perfectly but looking over the board i can distinctly notice where it is. Also do i need to leak test my 240L? Just to be thorough?


I leak tested mine for a few hours, to be sure...wouldn't hurt to do it.

Also, you can delid for max performance under water.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Got my 290 added into my H220
> 
> 
> 
> Temps actually seem pretty ok for now. Thinking I'm gonna redo the tubing though, probably add a Phobya 200mm rad later as well.





nice what are your CPU and GPU temps at load? I am planning to do this also with my 290x but I have already added a 140mm xt45


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which case are you currently using? That will help to know if it will work.


I have the HAF 922, I could change that as I have no major budget constraints. I've had some help from forum members and my OC'ing attempts have been much more fruitful. My 80i no longer gets it done. I'm not in a big hurry to order parts and I may even go with a full custom loop, weighing my options.

Six weeks ago I ordered a 100i to replace the over worked 80i, two weeks later I see the 240L released and having a bunch of points at NE to use, I ordered that. After seeing this thread and what some of the members here are doing with expanding these aio's, I have kind of caught the fever.


----------



## Thrasher1016

I know this isn't strictly a thread for questions like this, but it relates to my new Glacier 240L, so here it is...

My Corsair PWM SP120 HP fans are going like a bat out of hell, and I don't think the SYSfan1 header on my MSI Z77 board has PWM control, so those bastards are running full-power like they're trying to cool the core of the earth...
See here:



So I have a Swiftech splitter on it's way, and that's all well and good, but I'm curious as to how to properly hook the Glacier's pump unit (true PWM, obviously), my four PWM fans, and my one solitary rear fan (voltage only) to these two headers without a bigger bird's nest or more undue money spent.

Ideas?

Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I know this isn't strictly a thread for questions like this, but it relates to my new Glacier 240L, so here it is...
> 
> My Corsair PWM SP120 HP fans are going like a bat out of hell, and I don't think the SYSfan1 header on my MSI Z77 board has PWM control, so those bastards are running full-power like they're trying to cool the core of the earth...
> See here:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have a Swiftech splitter on it's way, and that's all well and good, but I'm curious as to how to properly hook the Glacier's pump unit (true PWM, obviously), my four PWM fans, and my one solitary rear fan (voltage only) to these two headers without a bigger bird's nest or more undue money spent.
> 
> Ideas?
> 
> Thanks - T


Why not still plug the pump in the red slot on the Swiftech splitter and plug the splitter to PWM fan? You'd still have to plug in thr SATAs on the pump and the splitter to the PSU, but it would work the same way the H220 does.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Been messing around with getting these air bubbles out of my H220, think I may have made it worse. I've tried the squeezing the tube trick, shaking the rad, angling my pc front to back, side to side. My temps went from idle: 28-30c to 50-54c @ 50% pump speed (increasing the pump speed doesn't seem to make a difference). Must have lots air bubbles in there. I usually get these temps while playing BF4 now it's idling like this. Haven't gotten the chance to add water since that requires removing it which is a hassle. I got to do it soon though. These temps are unacceptable.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Seems to me that while moving the case around the block shifted and is badly seated on the cpu. Try re-seating the block? If that does not change anything then I am afraid you will have to take the radiator out and bleed/fill the reservoir out of the case.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Seems to me that while moving the case around the block shifted and is badly seated on the cpu. Try re-seating the block? If that does not change anything then I am afraid you will have to take the radiator out and bleed/fill the reservoir out of the case.


Don't see that being the case. But who knows, could be. I'll try re-seating a little later. Just an update, I tried power cycling my pc off and on. Seems to have lowered my idle temps down to 38-40c.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Some temp figures, i7 3820 @ 4.65ghz, 1.38v, P95 blend for 40 minutes with 28c ambients:


----------



## Blackops_2

Just checking with everyone does this sound fine?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just checking with everyone does this sound fine?


That sounds about right to me. These run at a slightly higher speed than our H220, so you're going to get a little bit more noise out of them. There is also just the slight sound of running water and this should go away after a few hours to a day of usage.


----------



## Blackops_2

Alright sound good. I wasn't sure what it was supposed to sound like since this is my first AIO or intro into water for that matter. Thanks Bram


----------



## ivanlabrie

Mine did a water moving sound for a few minutes the first time I fired it but it went away rather fast...it was rather soothing and zen-like lol


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> nice what are your CPU and GPU temps at load? I am planning to do this also with my 290x but I have already added a 140mm xt45


Running Heaven 4.0 (settings as per the thread) CPU peaked at 58C. GPU 54C. VRM 58C. Everything stock


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Running Heaven 4.0 (settings as per the thread) CPU peaked at 58C. GPU 54C. VRM 58C






Cool thanks! +rep


----------



## Blackops_2

How the hell do you change the fan orientation? If you want it on exhaust? The smallest screwdriver i have will fit through the holes of the fan to the screws but it's so small i can't get enough force on it to untwist them.

Nvm just mounting it as intake.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> How the hell do you change the fan orientation? If you want it on exhaust? The smallest screwdriver i have will fit through the holes of the fan to the screws but it's so small i can't get enough force on it to untwist them.






Yeah I just used a screw driver that I had that was small enough to fit it unscrewed them perfectly.. But it was a computer screwdriver. You might need a new one honestly IDK how else you can get it off


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> How the hell do you change the fan orientation? If you want it on exhaust? The smallest screwdriver i have will fit through the holes of the fan to the screws but it's so small i can't get enough force on it to untwist them.
> 
> Nvm just mounting it as intake.


I don't know yet about Cooler Master, but we're looking at possibly providing a thin screw drive tool to come along with our H220/ H320 kits. I don't have any definitive word on it as of yet, but we're looking into it.


----------



## ivanlabrie

The provided screws don't fit the fans I got...I don't get it, only the thin long ones and small silver ones that came installed fit.


----------



## Robbieladd

I have used a jeweler's screwdriver with great success. The initial loosening might require using pliers around the ribbed grip of the screwdriver. cheers, Rob


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> The provided screws don't fit the fans I got...I don't get it, only the thin long ones and small silver ones that came installed fit.


The course fan screws fit, but they screw into the plastic on the fan in order to hold it secure to the case properly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which case are you currently using? That will help to know if it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the HAF 922, I could change that as I have no major budget constraints. I've had some help from forum members and my OC'ing attempts have been much more fruitful. My 80i no longer gets it done. I'm not in a big hurry to order parts and I may even go with a full custom loop, weighing my options.
> 
> Six weeks ago I ordered a 100i to replace the over worked 80i, two weeks later I see the 240L released and having a bunch of points at NE to use, I ordered that. After seeing this thread and what some of the members here are doing with expanding these aio's, I have kind of caught the fever.
Click to expand...

if you want a new case. i have to recommend caselabs !
either a full custom loop or this is a great option.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> How the hell do you change the fan orientation? If you want it on exhaust? The smallest screwdriver i have will fit through the holes of the fan to the screws but it's so small i can't get enough force on it to untwist them.
> 
> Nvm just mounting it as intake.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know yet about Cooler Master, but we're looking at possibly providing a thin screw drive tool to come along with our H220/ H320 kits. I don't have any definitive word on it as of yet, but we're looking into it.
Click to expand...

i get mine from supply zstore, they give them free :x i can send you one if you live in the us though


----------



## Blackops_2

Just mounted it with the course fan screws as intake.

Took 6 hours but its up and running. Just got windows installed. My cabling skills suck something awful


----------



## Blackops_2

1st Cinebench run 7.13 Multi-threaded, 1.49 Single. .64 from my 8320 @ 4.52ghz. Topped out at 47C. Noise has gone down considerably from my video. If i put my ear up to it i can hear it faintly. Can't hear it over the system or the harddrive writing.







we'll see the long term results so far i'm stoked. Thanks for all the help guys


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 1st Cinebench run 7.13 Multi-threaded, 1.49 Single. .64 from my 8320 @ 4.52ghz. Topped out at 47C. Noise has gone down considerably from my video. If i put my ear up to it i can hear it faintly. Can't hear it over the system or the harddrive writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we'll see the long term results so far i'm stoked. Thanks for all the help guys


Looking good!







See, I told you the noise would quiet down. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## Blackops_2

Will do Bram thanks for everything


----------



## psikeiro

Pump on my H220 bought back in March just died while playing BF4, rebooted and was getting temps in the 90s on my 4820k when i don't even break 55c usually. I've sent an email to Michelle for an RMA/refund. Anything else I should be looking at doing? Block/Pump was extremely hot, radiating heat even and impossible to touch with bare hands.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just checking with everyone does this sound fine?


My H320 pump made no noise at all when I first tested it outside the case, and if it makes noise when stressed I can't hear it over my GPU / other fans.

I've not had any water, clicking or buzzing noises yet as far as I can tell. I've only ever run it with the built in res as the highest point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> Pump on my H220 bought back in March just died while playing BF4, rebooted and was getting temps in the 90s on my 4820k when i don't even break 55c usually. I've sent an email to Michelle for an RMA/refund. Anything else I should be looking at doing? Block/Pump was extremely hot, radiating heat even and impossible to touch with bare hands.


Really hope this doesn't happen to me... don't want my CPU running at 100C!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> Pump on my H220 bought back in March just died while playing BF4, rebooted and was getting temps in the 90s on my 4820k when i don't even break 55c usually. I've sent an email to Michelle for an RMA/refund. Anything else I should be looking at doing? Block/Pump was extremely hot, radiating heat even and impossible to touch with bare hands.


Make sure you test on how the pump in being plug in either on CPU header or splitter. Without knowing how all is setup, try it outside the case.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you want a new case. i have to recommend caselabs !
> either a full custom loop or this is a great option.
> i get mine from supply zstore, they give them free :x i can send you one if you live in the us though


I'll look at those, thanks.


----------



## Blackops_2

Here's how it sounds now. Like I said you can barely hear it less you put your ear to it. The phone mic picks it up better.


----------



## delpy8

can anyone tell me if this pump/cpu block is a good or better than the one supplied with the h220/320

its the Coolermaster Eisberg Prestige CPU Waterblock with pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> Pump on my H220 bought back in March just died while playing BF4, rebooted and was getting temps in the 90s on my 4820k when i don't even break 55c usually. I've sent an email to Michelle for an RMA/refund. Anything else I should be looking at doing? Block/Pump was extremely hot, radiating heat even and impossible to touch with bare hands.


Being that Michelle moved recently and therefore no longer works with us, it would be better if you sent the email to me instead. PM me and I'll let you know what you need to send in the email to start the RMA process. I'm sorry for the issue you had with this kit, but we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## Blackops_2

IBT run with my 3770k Stock. Topped out at 52C.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> IBT run with my 3770k Stock. Topped out at 52C.


Hot.


----------



## Blackops_2

Meh for Ivy it sounds pretty good to me. Though i'm new to the whole water scene. IBT is probably the most unrealistic stress tool i've encountered. It's great to run a quick stability test and see the max temps you'll probably reach, but P95, benching/gaming, without crashing is a better way of testing IMO. Cinebench topped out at 47C.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Those temps are normal. I'm at 4.2Ghz and I top out at 63c under stress. Gaming tops out at 54c.


----------



## tike71

I purchased a Cooler Master Glacer from Newegg after sending back a Corsair h100i.
Glad that the h100i was out of stock at the time of my RMA so Newegg gave me a refund. It was down to either the Silverstone Tundra and the CM Glacer. Ultimately the Glacer came out on top due to reviews and ability to expand.

I've replace the stock CM fans with Noctua F12s and the pump runs quieter than the fans, added a Bitspower 150 reservoir and clear tubing. The Glacer is fine when stock, but I just love the look of round reservoirs.
I'm pushing a 4960x to 4.5ghz at 1.39v with max temps around 79-80c at load.
This is my first venture into water cooling and I'm loving it so far.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Nice, you added a discrete res and changed tubing...I hear you have to have the res over the pump, so keep that in mind.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Those temps are normal. I'm at 4.2Ghz and I top out at 63c under stress. Gaming tops out at 54c.


It's also to note ambient is 25C/77F. It's in my kitchen lol i don't know where to put the big thing.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

800D is not a good choice for a case. Reason very poor airflow and high cost, compared to similar cases like the 900D/750D


----------



## GingertronMk1

My H220s gone belly up. The pump has died; it's not reading anything, there's no discernible movement of fluid occurring and tempts are way up. I bought it fro highflow.nl (1im in the UK), dropped them an email yesterday about it and haven't heard from them. If anything, this is a log for myself. Any suggestions about what I should do/what others in my situation have done would be awesome.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 800D is not a good choice for a case. Reason very poor airflow and high cost, compared to similar cases like the 900D/750D


I'll be doing a custom loop in a couple of months with some mods so no worries







At the time i got it the 900D wasn't out. Guess i could've returned it for a 900D considering it isn't much more expensive. I'm not sure where i could put it lol, the 800D is already huge.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> My H220s gone belly up. The pump has died; it's not reading anything, there's no discernible movement of fluid occurring and tempts are way up. I bought it fro highflow.nl (1im in the UK), dropped them an email yesterday about it and haven't heard from them. If anything, this is a log for myself. Any suggestions about what I should do/what others in my situation have done would be awesome.


I'm sure Bram will get to you with guidance on it later on but I'd wait to hear back from your dealer as well since it's a Saturday and they aren't open for business on the weekend according to their 'Contact Us' page.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I'll be doing a custom loop in a couple of months with some mods so no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time i got it the 900D wasn't out. Guess i could've returned it for a 900D considering it isn't much more expensive. I'm not sure where i could put it lol, the 800D is already huge.


These are the size, 900D is little bit bigger, but gives so much more in terms of watercooling. 750D has more options to watercool than 800D, for half the price.
750D 22"H x 9"W x 22"D $160
800D 24"H x 9"W x 24"D $300
900D 27"H x 10"W x 26'D $350


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> My H220s gone belly up. The pump has died; it's not reading anything, there's no discernible movement of fluid occurring and tempts are way up. I bought it fro highflow.nl (1im in the UK), dropped them an email yesterday about it and haven't heard from them. If anything, this is a log for myself. Any suggestions about what I should do/what others in my situation have done would be awesome.


UK RMA's are handled through Bacata, Bryan will be on soon and can get you the info on how to contact them, and will also want to be informed on how it goes. Hope this helps!







.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

So my temps on my H220 are still very high, I've tried everything to remove these airbubbles once again (still hearing water). Checked to see if it needed anymore water, it's completely full. Tried re-timming a couple times to see if that was the problem. Made no difference. My cpu is idling in the mid 40's and I can't even play a game (BF4) because my cpu is getting too hot. This cooler has been nothing but good to me until now. My max temp during stressing never exceeding 57c. My problems weird because I didn't do anything to it. Temps just started running hot out of nowhere. I'm beginning to wonder if it's the pump? I know the pump works cause I hear water. I'm all out of ideas, I might just have to RMA.


----------



## tike71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Nice, you added a discrete res and changed tubing...I hear you have to have the res over the pump, so keep that in mind.


I have to deviate from the standard rule of thumb. There's no practical place to mount the res above the pump. I did, however, fill it initially with the res above the pump so water would gravitate towards it. Once the loop was completed and the res filled, I closed it up and installed it how it is now.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> So my temps on my H220 are still very high, I've tried everything to remove these airbubbles once again (still hearing water). Checked to see if it needed anymore water, it's completely full. Tried re-timming a couple times to see if that was the problem. Made no difference. My cpu is idling in the mid 40's and I can't even play a game (BF4) because my cpu is getting too hot. This cooler has been nothing but good to me until now. My max temp during stressing never exceeding 57c. My problems weird because I didn't do anything to it. Temps just started running hot out of nowhere. I'm beginning to wonder if it's the pump? I know the pump works cause I hear water. I'm all out of ideas, I might just have to RMA.


How are you running the fan on the H220?
Do you feel the pump lose on the on the cpu, as can you move it around?
What is your airflow within your case and ambient temps?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How are you running the fan on the H220?
> Do you feel the pump lose on the on the cpu, as can you move it around?
> What is your airflow within your case and ambient temps?


I have the rad at the top of my case push/pull as intake. I tightened the screw on the block until they bottomed out as the instructions say. So no I can't move it around. Airflow and ambient temps isn't the problem as this started happening out of nowhere as stated in my above post. If anything ambient room temp has gone down so technically it should be running cooler than before. For comparison I used to idle around 28-30c. Now I'm low to mid 40's. (btw I'm reading the cpu temp, cpu cores 1-4 are idling at high 50's low 60's.)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> My H220s gone belly up. The pump has died; it's not reading anything, there's no discernible movement of fluid occurring and tempts are way up. I bought it fro highflow.nl (1im in the UK), dropped them an email yesterday about it and haven't heard from them. If anything, this is a log for myself. Any suggestions about what I should do/what others in my situation have done would be awesome.


If you have any issues with HighFlow then send me PM and I'll help you get the kit replaced. Depending on how long you've had it you may have to through us anyway. Either way though you will get a replacement for this kit.


----------



## xulos

I have swiftech H220 and it runs at 100% pump speed, but now that pump sound is annoying me. So i turned on standard cpu fan profile in bios (p8z77-i deluxe) and now pump fluctuate between 1850-2000 rpm(~1900 rpm) and i would like to know is there a big difference in temperatures with pump on full speed and pump on ~1900 rpm ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> My H220s gone belly up. The pump has died; it's not reading anything, there's no discernible movement of fluid occurring and tempts are way up. I bought it fro highflow.nl (1im in the UK), dropped them an email yesterday about it and haven't heard from them. If anything, this is a log for myself. Any suggestions about what I should do/what others in my situation have done would be awesome.


bramsli1 !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I'll be doing a custom loop in a couple of months with some mods so no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time i got it the 900D wasn't out. Guess i could've returned it for a 900D considering it isn't much more expensive. I'm not sure where i could put it lol, the 800D is already huge.
> 
> 
> 
> These are the size, 900D is little bit bigger, but gives so much more in terms of watercooling. 750D has more options to watercool than 800D, for half the price.
> 750D 22"H x 9"W x 22"D $160
> 800D 24"H x 9"W x 24"D $300
> 900D 27"H x 10"W x 26'D $350
Click to expand...

meh get rid of corsair and get caselabs.... you will thank me !


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> I have swiftech H220 and it runs at 100% pump speed, but now that pump sound is annoying me. So i turned on standard cpu fan profile in bios (p8z77-i deluxe) and now pump fluctuate between 1850-2000 rpm(~1900 rpm) and i would like to know is there a big difference in temperatures with pump on full speed and pump on ~1900 rpm ?


If you haven't expanded the loop, there is almost no difference, less than 1*C.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> I have swiftech H220 and it runs at 100% pump speed, but now that pump sound is annoying me. So i turned on standard cpu fan profile in bios (p8z77-i deluxe) and now pump fluctuate between 1850-2000 rpm(~1900 rpm) and i would like to know is there a big difference in temperatures with pump on full speed and pump on ~1900 rpm ?


No, you will not be able to notice any temperature difference from running at full speed and running at about 1900 RPM. This is particularly true if you're only cooling your CPU.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh get rid of corsair and get caselabs.... you will thank me !


If I would've seen that a year ago I would have one. It took about 7 hours to put it together. And I didn't get done finalizing everything for another 5 between it and my AMD rig. Though deep down I've always liked the 800D sure there are better cases for less money but I've always wanted one.


----------



## zephcdj

I finally got my 240L set up and it's working perfectly; temps are great. The one snag, however, is this high-pitched resonance emanating from the pump. It's driving me insane and ruining an otherwise great experience. Any advice?


----------



## Blackops_2

Bram will definitely let you know what to do. But what is the sound like? I'm no expert but here's a video of what mine sounded like when i first tested it. As Bram told me it would quiet down after some hours of use, which it did.



Here it is later that night in the case. I can hear the pump if my ear is near it or i record the sound with the phone mic right up to it. Other than that it isn't audible over the case fans.



And here's a video of an h220 that is pretty loud it seems.


----------



## xulos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you haven't expanded the loop, there is almost no difference, less than 1*C.


No, i haven't, thy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, you will not be able to notice any temperature difference from running at full speed and running at about 1900 RPM. This is particularly true if you're only cooling your CPU.


thy, then i will leave it on that speed.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you have any issues with HighFlow then send me PM and I'll help you get the kit replaced. Depending on how long you've had it you may have to through us anyway. Either way though you will get a replacement for this kit.


I ordered it on the 22nd of August, it arrived September 2nd.


----------



## nyk20z3

Is the H320 available in the US ?

NVM found it in Frozen..


----------



## T9Conflict

I'm having an issue with my Glacier 240L. I can't control the pump speed for some reason and I have no idea why. I have an ASUS P8Z77-V Pro motherboard and the 240L is hooked up via the sata power connector and PWM header on the motherboard. I have been using the ASUS fan control software and I tried a couple different fan headers to no avail.

Was hoping someone could lend some advice b/c at full speed the pump is rather noisy and I want to run it at lower speeds. Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T9Conflict*
> 
> I'm having an issue with my Glacier 240L. I can't control the pump speed for some reason and I have no idea why. I have an ASUS P8Z77-V Pro motherboard and the 240L is hooked up via the sata power connector and PWM header on the motherboard. I have been using the ASUS fan control software and I tried a couple different fan headers to no avail.
> 
> Was hoping someone could lend some advice b/c at full speed the pump is rather noisy and I want to run it at lower speeds. Thanks.


Have you tried the CPU fan header yet because that's probably the only one on the board that's true PWM. If you connect it to a voltage regulated header it's just going to run at full speed.


----------



## Blackops_2

HWinfo64 has my CPU fan header reading 995rpm around there.


----------



## T9Conflict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried the CPU fan header yet because that's probably the only one on the board that's true PWM. If you connect it to a voltage regulated header it's just going to run at full speed.


Wow I'm an idiot. That was indeed the problem ...thank you very much.


----------



## jibatron

Hey swiftech! Have you guys sent out ur orders to the suppliers yet? I pre-ordered a H320 from ncix and the eta for the kit to arrive has already passed. I'm excited for the upgrade! Any kind of time would be great


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Hey swiftech! Have you guys sent out ur orders to the suppliers yet? I pre-ordered a H320 from ncix and the eta for the kit to arrive has already passed. I'm excited for the upgrade! Any kind of time would be great


Was it NCIX canada or US as right now there is no actual date of when they are coming in.


----------



## jibatron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Was it NCIX canada or US as right now there is no actual date of when they are coming in.


It was ncix canada. They had a date for nov 15


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Was it NCIX canada or US as right now there is no actual date of when they are coming in.


It was ncix canada. They had a date for nov 15[/quote]
The date was a estimate which can change for this. Contact NCIX directly about your order.


----------



## zephcdj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Bram will definitely let you know what to do. But what is the sound like? I'm no expert but here's a video of what mine sounded like when i first tested it. As Bram told me it would quiet down after some hours of use, which it did.


It's nothing like that thankfully. It's a "whistling", for lack of a better term. It'll stop very briefly then come back for another 10-20 secs constantly. I've tried pretty much everything, so I'm a bit at a loss. These open-air headphones aren't helping, heh.


----------



## Blackops_2

Hmm maybe try recording it so he can listen to it.

This is completely a new user question but, is it better to leave the PC running i.e. keeping the pump going or can i shut it off? I always shut my PCs down before i go to bed. At least my AMD rig which lights up blue always kept me awake.


----------



## Snyderman34

Pump seems to have quietened down quite a bit since adding the video card to the loop. It was quiet before, but now I can barely hear it at full tilt. Impressed. Got one more rad to add now!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tike71*
> 
> I purchased a Cooler Master Glacer from Newegg after sending back a Corsair h100i.
> Glad that the h100i was out of stock at the time of my RMA so Newegg gave me a refund. It was down to either the Silverstone Tundra and the CM Glacer. Ultimately the Glacer came out on top due to reviews and ability to expand.
> 
> I've replace the stock CM fans with Noctua F12s and the pump runs quieter than the fans, added a Bitspower 150 reservoir and clear tubing. The Glacer is fine when stock, but I just love the look of round reservoirs.
> I'm pushing a 4960x to 4.5ghz at 1.39v with max temps around 79-80c at load.
> This is my first venture into water cooling and I'm loving it so far.






You did sorta the same thing I did!!



Works great, doesn't it?

Thanks - T


----------



## marc0053

Has anyone compared the h220 cpu block with other blocks? Im thinking to modify my h220 and use the pump only and buy another cpu block. I find my temps are still way to hot in my expanded unit. Have h220 + 2 additional ut60 240mm rads. I also purchased an mcp35x pump that i haven't installed yet. One of my cores reach 91C on a 3930k at 4.7ghz while the rest hovers around 75-80C.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Has anyone compared the h220 cpu block with other blocks? Im thinking to modify my h220 and use the pump only and buy another cpu block. I find my temps are still way to hot in my expanded unit. Have h220 + 2 additional ut60 240mm rads. I also purchased an mcp35x pump that i haven't installed yet. One of my cores reach 91C on a 3930k at 4.7ghz while the rest hovers around 75-80C.


Sounds like a little low on the raddage or fan speed department to me...the H220 pump is a bit weaker though. Maybe the 35x will help.


----------



## marc0053

Im using noctua nf 12 in push pull and have to say that that adding the two ut 60 rads barely improved temps.

I was about to purchase an mo-ra3 external radiator or phobya 1080 but now i am not sure if temps will improve much when considering that 2 ut60 did not help


----------



## ivanlabrie

Did you reseat the cpu? Tim application may suck for all we know. Adding rads should definitely help...


----------



## marc0053

I reseated probably 5-6 times since I noticed these high temps. Even tried rotating the cpu block 90 and 180degree with no luck.


----------



## guinner16

Well my H220 bit the dust last night while playing a game. I went from a120FPS to 2 FPS in about 10 seconds. I checked and sure enough the pump wasn't running. I put another cooler I had on and it worked perfectly. I was worried my cpu fan header on my mobo might have went bad, but the other cooler works fine. Looks like I gotta do an RMA.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Has anyone compared the h220 cpu block with other blocks? Im thinking to modify my h220 and use the pump only and buy another cpu block. I find my temps are still way to hot in my expanded unit. Have h220 + 2 additional ut60 240mm rads. I also purchased an mcp35x pump that i haven't installed yet. One of my cores reach 91C on a 3930k at 4.7ghz while the rest hovers around 75-80C.


Edit:
Nevermind what I wrote, didn't realise you were the person whp reseated and had the noctua fans already...guess thats what happens when you browse ocn first thing in the morning while waiting for the coffee to brew lol

11c temp difference makes me wonder about checking your thermal paste. Take the cooler off and see how even it is, but re paste while its off. Be sure to use a high quality paste too. That alone can be worth a few C plus a bad paste job and it sounds like you solve your problem. Look up the linus tech youtube review on the h220 to see the difference fans make as well.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I reseated probably 5-6 times since I noticed these high temps. Even tried rotating the cpu block 90 and 180degree with no luck.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> Well my H220 bit the dust last night while playing a game. I went from a120FPS to 2 FPS in about 10 seconds. I checked and sure enough the pump wasn't running. I put another cooler I had on and it worked perfectly. I was worried my cpu fan header on my mobo might have went bad, but the other cooler works fine. Looks like I gotta do an RMA.


@marc0053 Maybe your pump is dead like his?


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> @marc0053 Maybe your pump is dead like his?


My pump seams to be working as I hear it running and i see the liquid through my mtherboard waterblock circulating.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> My pump seams to be working as I hear it running and i see the liquid through my mtherboard waterblock circulating.


I'm pretty much having the same problem as you. I know the pump is working since I hear water but my temps skyrocketed. Right now I'm idling at 58c with cores 1-4 in the mid 70c. Can't even play games, it gets way too hot. I'm gonna have to put my h50 back on and RMA this H220.


----------



## marc0053

my idle is around 26-34C its just the load temps that concern me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'm pretty much having the same problem as you. I know the pump is working since I hear water but my temps skyrocketed. Right now I'm idling at 58c with cores 1-4 in the mid 70c. Can't even play games, it gets way too hot. I'm gonna have to put my h50 back on and RMA this H220.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> my idle is around 26-34C its just the load temps that concern me


It will help if you can both tell me what your motherboards indicate what speed your pump is running. This will help me to diagnose your issue. It would also help if you could both post some pictures that show how your loops are set up.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It will help if you can both tell me what your motherboards indicate what speed your pump is running. This will help me to diagnose your issue. It would also help if you could both post some pictures that show how your loops are set up.


I have it plugged into the cpu fan header, it's indicating at 100% the pump is running at around 3k rpm. Just to point out as I've done in my previous posts. This started happening out of nowhere. My temps use to be amazing.

Here's a pic of how it's setup. The res pointed upward.


EDIT: Ok I just removed the cooler from my case. Was looking at the rad under the light and I noticed the rad fins have rust on them. Now how is that possible? I'm not mistaking this brownish/orange color right?


----------



## marc0053

Im running a ASUS RIVE motherboard and the rpm of the pump indicates about 1950rpm
Here are a few loop configuration photos + bios snapshots


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I have it plugged into the cpu fan header, it's indicating at 100% the pump is running at around 3k rpm. Just to point out as I've done in my previous posts. This started happening out of nowhere. My temps use to be amazing.
> 
> Here's a pic of how it's setup. The res pointed upward.


If this started out of nowhere then the issue has to be with how the block is mounted. It must be coming loose somehow and thus causing issues with your contact with the CPU. Please check the mounting to see if you've got a stripped screw or if one of the nuts on the back plate has become stripped. It could also be an issue with one of the plastic retaining washers. They will sometimes become worn after a couple mounts and this can create a poor contact between the block and the CPU.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If this started out of nowhere then the issue has to be with how the block is mounted. It must be coming loose somehow and thus causing issues with your contact with the CPU. Please check the mounting to see if you've got a stripped screw or if one of the nuts on the back plate has become stripped. It could also be an issue with one of the plastic retaining washers. They will sometimes become worn after a couple mounts and this can create a poor contact between the block and the CPU.


I've re-set several times with no change. Not sure if you saw but I edited my post. Take a look at the picture of the rad, there's seems to be rust somehow?

EDIT: All screws and nuts seem to be fine.


----------



## marc0053

I just ran intel burn test a few minutes ago and here are my results. Ambient temperature now is 21 degree C.
I would like to add that adding two additional rads, adding a mobo waterblock, going from push to push/pull on additional 2 rads and adding a gpu or removing it from the loop did not reduce or increase cpu temps using the H220 unit. Is it possible that I have abnormal heat generation from my cpu?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Im running a ASUS RIVE motherboard and the rpm of the pump indicates about 1950rpm
> Here are a few loop configuration photos + bios snapshots


First off, that is the most elaborate loop configuration that I've seen yet in this thread. I also have a feeling that this is probably part of your issue. With a loop configuration such as yours I would highly suggest that you leave the pump running at full speed the whole time. This is due to the fact that you have quite a bit of restriction with the added motherboard water block and the added radiators. This should help to improve your temperatures, but I would also suspect that there might be either a blockage in your loop somewhere or you still have some air in the loop that's hindering your performance. With a loop that's that elaborate it's going to take quite a bit of effort to purge all of the air out of it.


----------



## marc0053

I just removed 3 of the 4 ram sticks and my temps have gone from 91C to 78C.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I just ran intel burn test a few minutes ago and here are my results. Ambient temperature now is 21 degree C.
> I would like to add that adding two additional rads, adding a mobo waterblock, going from push to push/pull on additional 2 rads and adding a gpu or removing it from the loop did not reduce or increase cpu temps using the H220 unit. Is it possible that I have abnormal heat generation from my cpu?


OK, this shows more of the picture and shows what the issue likely is. I think you've simply got a bad IHS mounting or the mounting of your block is uneven. There is such a wide range in your load temperatures and to me it just doesn't look right. I don't have enough experience yet with Ivy Bridge to confirm that, but this just doesn't look right to me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I have it plugged into the cpu fan header, it's indicating at 100% the pump is running at around 3k rpm. Just to point out as I've done in my previous posts. This started happening out of nowhere. My temps use to be amazing.
> 
> Here's a pic of how it's setup. The res pointed upward.
> 
> EDIT: Ok I just removed the cooler from my case. Was looking at the rad under the light and I noticed the rad fins have rust on them. Now how is that possible? I'm not mistaking this brownish/orange color right?


The fins are copper so that can't be rust. We don't completely paint the fins because that would hinder the performance of the radiator because it would insulate the copper fins.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The fins are copper so that can't be rust. We don't completely paint the fins because that would hinder the performance of the radiator because it would insulate the copper fins.


Okay, thats good then. So it's not the mounting screws or nuts. They look to be in good shape.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Okay, thats good then. So it's not the mounting screws or nuts. They look to be in good shape.


OK, then the only other things that would cause issues with your performance would be an increase in ambient temperature or some kind of blockage or obstruction in your loop. I'm guessing that your ambient temperatures haven't gone up so that would mean that it's got to be a blockage of some kind. Have you tried to flush the kit yet? If not then I would suggest that this is what you might need to do to resolve your issue.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then the only other things that would cause issues with your performance would be an increase in ambient temperature or some kind of blockage or obstruction in your loop. I'm guessing that your ambient temperatures haven't gone up so that would mean that it's got to be a blockage of some kind. Have you tried to flush the kit yet? If not then I would suggest that this is what you might need to do to resolve your issue.


Ambient room has actually gone down since winter is approaching. I just finished installing my old Corsair H50 and my temps back down again. Idling 26-27c. This is what the idle temps were at before which makes sense since it's close to my ambient room temp. I haven't tried flushing the kit yet. Guess it won't hurt to try. I don't have any coolant laying around. Should I buy some or is distilled water okay to use?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Ambient room has actually gone down since winter is approaching. I just finished installing my old Corsair H50 and my temps back down again. Idling 26-27c. This is what the idle temps were at before which makes sense since it's close to my ambient room temp. I haven't tried flushing the kit yet. Guess it won't hurt to try. I don't have any coolant laying around. Should I buy some or is distilled water okay to use?


Distilled water is OK to use. You can also just reuse the coolant by filtering it with a coffee filter and pouring it into a clean container. Then just use some distilled water to top it off. Let me know if this resolves your issue with this kit.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Distilled water is OK to use. You can also just reuse the coolant by filtering it with a coffee filter and pouring it into a clean container. Then just use some distilled water to top it off. Let me know if this resolves your issue with this kit.


Good idea, I'll do that then. Will report back.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Im running a ASUS RIVE motherboard and the rpm of the pump indicates about 1950rpm
> Here are a few loop configuration photos + bios snapshots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think you have a blockage in the loop and restriction. Are you going too add your GTX780 to the loop? You might want to run the pump at full speed.
See many different fans on Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 , running that many rads wont help decrease temps that much just for CPU only. Are all on intake? How well is your external temps?
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 is a low 10 FPI and push/pull is not needed.

What happens there is a thermal limit, as the adding more rads will scale less in lowering temps sometimes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I think you have a blockage in the loop and restriction. Are you going too add your GTX780 to the loop? You might want to run the pump at full speed.
> See many different fans on Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 , running that many rads wont help decrease temps that much just for CPU only. Are all on intake? How well is your external temps?
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 is a low 10 FPI and push/pull is not needed.
> 
> What happens there is a thermal limit, as the adding more rads will scale less in lowering temps sometimes.


I agree that there are diminishing returns when adding radiators, but to not have any noticeable difference at all just doesn't sound right. That's why I'm thinking that it's got to be some kind of a blockage in the loop that's causing performance issues.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I haven't put water back in the H220 yet but I drained it out. Here what came out of it.

Now I've never opened this until now.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I think you have a blockage in the loop and restriction. Are you going too add your GTX780 to the loop? You might want to run the pump at full speed.
> See many different fans on Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 , running that many rads wont help decrease temps that much just for CPU only. Are all on intake? How well is your external temps?
> Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 is a low 10 FPI and push/pull is not needed.
> 
> What happens there is a thermal limit, as the adding more rads will scale less in lowering temps sometimes.


External temps are about 21 degree C and yes all rads are pulling fresh outside air into the case. I used to have 2 GTX Titans, heavily overclocked, in the same loop and CPU temperatures were identical before and after the video cards were in the loop. I will be adding a PNY GTX 780 to the loop shortly and possibly even 2 more 780 classies in the next few weeks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I agree that there are diminishing returns when adding radiators, but to not have any noticeable difference at all just doesn't sound right. That's why I'm thinking that it's got to be some kind of a blockage in the loop that's causing performance issues.


I will add a MCP35X pump soon and see if there are any improvements.
Initially I had the stock H220 unit (not expanded) on the cpu--only and the temperatures were similar to what I have today. Similar results after adding 2x UT60 240mm rads. Then, adding 2 gpus didn't change cpu temps, neither adding the motherboard block change anything.

The only thing that reduced temperatures until now was to remove 3 sticks of ram and only have 1 in place. These dropped temps by about 13C across the cores.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> External temps are about 21 degree C and yes all rads are pulling fresh outside air into the case. I used to have 2 GTX Titans, heavily overclocked, in the same loop and CPU temperatures were identical before and after the video cards were in the loop. I will be adding a PNY GTX 780 to the loop shortly and possibly even 2 more 780 classies in the next few weeks.
> I will add a MCP35X pump soon and see if there are any improvements.
> Initially I had the stock H220 unit (not expanded) on the cpu--only and the temperatures were similar to what I have today. Similar results after adding 2x UT60 240mm rads. Then, adding 2 gpus didn't change cpu temps, neither adding the motherboard block change anything.
> 
> The only thing that reduced temperatures until now was to remove 3 sticks of ram and only have 1 in place. These dropped temps by about 13C across the cores.


I think the memory issue is completely unrelated. It wouldn't make any sense for the coolant temperature to drop simply because you're running less memory. The issue has to either do with contact between one or more of your blocks, or the issue has be related to your flow rate. It could even be a combination of both. Either way, I really don't think the issue has anything to do with how much memory you're running.


----------



## marc0053

Is it possible the ram is causing local warming of the cpu area without greatly affecting water temperature in the loop?
I never noticed the difference in water temperature when adding additional rads or fans.
I am considering buying another cpu and trying it to see if the problem persists, if not, return it or sell it.

I do tighten the H220 cpu block until I can't turn any of the 4 screws anymore. I also do a slight turn of each screw at a time in a diagonal fashion. Maybe I should try re-orienting the cpu block 90 degree and 180 degrees again.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Is it possible the ram is causing local warming of the cpu area without greatly affecting water temperature in the loop?
> I never noticed the difference in water temperature when adding additional rads or fans.
> I am considering buying another cpu and trying it to see if the problem persists, if not, return it or sell it.
> 
> I do tighten the H220 cpu block until I can't turn any of the 4 screws anymore. I also do a slight turn of each screw at a time in a diagonal fashion. Maybe I should try re-orienting the cpu block 90 degree and 180 degrees again.


It's highly unlikely that the close proximity of your memory would cause your CPU temperatures to increase by that much. I've just never heard of anything like that before. I've also asked our engineer here if he's aware of anything like that, and he said it just isn't possible.

Also check your motherboard blocks for proper contact. If they aren't making proper contact that would increase the temperature of the coolant as well.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Each ram block is super restrictive Bram...isn't that the problem?


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Each ram block is super restrictive Bram...isn't that the problem?


I don't have waterblocks on the ram though. only on the motherboard.
I installed the waterblock on the motherboard last week and cpu temperatures were identical both before and after installing the block.

Thanks again everyone for helping me with this issue. I was about to throw another 400-500$ on rads, fittings, fans, etc to help reduce cpu temps. But I figure I should try and solve this issue first.
I see 2 others using a similar setup as I have and there core temperatures are very consistent across all 6 cores at 4.6 and 4.8GHz, whereas mine vary almost by 16C.
I mostly use this rig for benching GPUs, then gaming, then work stuff.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Sounds like my goals, and my rig, except for the hexa part (still in progress)








How did pump speed affect temps?
Good luck fixing it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I don't have waterblocks on the ram though. only on the motherboard.
> I installed the waterblock on the motherboard last week and cpu temperatures were identical both before and after installing the block.
> 
> Thanks again everyone for helping me with this issue. I was about to throw another 400-500$ on rads, fittings, fans, etc to help reduce cpu temps. But I figure I should try and solve this issue first.
> *I see 2 others using a similar setup as I have and there core temperatures are very consistent across all 6 cores at 4.6 and 4.8GHz, whereas mine vary almost by 16C.*
> I mostly use this rig for benching GPUs, then gaming, then work stuff.


That's what makes me think that you have issues with contact. It's either the contact between your IHS and the block, or your CPU and the IHS. There is definitely some kind of contact issue going on though because if it was an issue related to flow your temperatures would be horrible across all cores, and not just the hottest ones.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Whats the best way to clean the rad and pump out? Before I put some fresh water in it, I want to make sure I got all this stuff out of it.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Sounds like my goals, and my rig, except for the hexa part (still in progress)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did pump speed affect temps?
> Good luck fixing it.


I have the pump plugged in the cpu PWN header so I would assume it goes full speed on load? if so, I would imagine that cpu temperatures would be similar as if I manually set the pump to max speed. I should probably try it to see if there is any changes.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's what makes me think that you have issues with contact. It's either the contact between your IHS and the block, or your CPU and the IHS. There is definitely some kind of contact issue going on though because if it was an issue related to flow your temperatures would be horrible across all cores, and not just the hottest ones.


Good point. I will have a closer look at the mounting bracket to see if there's is a poor contact point somewhere. I'm hoping that is it that simple


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Whats the best way to clean the rad and pump out? Before I put some fresh water in it, I want to make sure I got all this stuff out of it.


The best way is to disconnect them and run distilled water through them separately. I think the particles that you found in the coolant are likely from plasticizer. It's common with any type of flexible tubing of this kind. It also shouldn't have any harmful effects on the pump though. It would have to in a really high concentration to have any adverse effects on this pump.

What you can also do is run hot tap water through the radiator and the pump and then just rinse them out with distilled before using them. This is if you don't have access to enough distilled water to flush the kit with. Let me know if flushing it out helps to resolve your issue.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The best way is to disconnect them and run distilled water through them separately. I think the particles that you found in the coolant are likely from plasticizer. It's common with any type of flexible tubing of this kind. It also shouldn't have any harmful effects on the pump though. It would have to in a really high concentration to have any adverse effects on this pump.
> 
> What you can also do is run hot tap water through the radiator and the pump and then just rinse them out with distilled before using them. This is if you don't have access to enough distilled water to flush the kit with. Let me know if flushing it out helps to resolve your issue.


Alright thanks, I've been running tab water through it. Still some of those particles are coming out so I'm gonna make sure it's all before filling it up. I bought a gallon of distilled water the other day plus it's cheap so if I need more I get some.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

marc0053 my suggestion is to take the loop a part and start over. Come up with an plan to declutter the loop and make it more efficient to run between rads.
Also you may want to run the pump at full speed to push through all these rads.


----------



## Robilar

The pump on my h220 has started making a clicking sound (bought it new 2 months ago).

Is this normal? Or should I be worried.

Thanks


----------



## Blackops_2

I would be worried, but that's just me. Though i would guess it depends on how loud we're talking? I know i haven't had mine but a couple of days but if you look at Martin's video of the h220 pump noise, my second video of the glacer, and then the videos on the messed up 220s there is a pretty big difference.



I assume that mine sounds correct. Also compared it to pumps not on blocks like a full loop and seems pretty spot on.




If it sounds like this i wouldn't fill comfortable i assume that is the dreaded air bubble, but i think you can bleed it.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

So I've flushed my H220. Haven't installed it in my case/on my cpu yet cause I haven't got these air bubbles out. Pretty annoying hearing water. Don't want to take the cooler off I have now until they're gone. Any tips for removing air bubbles? So far I've tried everything in the OP from gently shaking the rad. Angling it front to back, side to side. Squeezing the barbs on both sides of the pump. Letting it run with the fill port open. Been trying for a while now with no success.


----------



## Robilar

It made no discernable sound up until yesterday. I find that when it ramps up, the sound planes out, only at idle do i hear a faint clicking. My case is up on my desk so its pretty close. Performance is not impacted at all. I must wonder why all of a sudden it started.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> It made no discernable sound up until yesterday. I find that when it ramps up, the sound planes out, only at idle do i hear a faint clicking. My case is up on my desk so its pretty close. Performance is not impacted at all. I must wonder why all of a sudden it started.


I had pretty much the same problem. When I got my H220, installed it. Everything went great, couple months go by and I begin to hear water. Didn't seem to change my temps so I just lived with it. Got a little louder a few months later then my temps began to get higher and higher until I couldn't use the cooler anymore. If you look back in this thread a couple pages you'll see the particles I found in my stock H220. So I flushed out the loop and refilled it, now I'm working on getting these air bubbles out. So far no luck.

Bram said it shouldn't affect the pump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think the particles that you found in the coolant are likely from plasticizer. It's common with any type of flexible tubing of this kind. It also shouldn't have any harmful effects on the pump though. It would have to in a really high concentration to have any adverse effects on this pump.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

You know...

The problems with air trapped inside the pump is not something new. I got whole new pump from Swiftech (great service and support) and it solved the problem for now. Old one had problems with air and probably ceramic shaft was broken

According to my experiences with H320, the best way to remove air from the loop is to open whole pump (copper block, get to impeller etc) and wash everything very well. Next put pump upside down and fill by water (before putting the tubes). Whole filling up the loop I was making when pump was upside down so air could get trap above impeller. Few hours later after shaking, moving pump You will remove most of the air. After installing is the best to run pump for many hours in 100% pwm speed. In the clear pipes everyone will be able to see very small air bubbles. After 24 hours of such a run the pump will remove all air.

Actually Swiftech should make something like with MCP35X. It will be great when we will be able to change the copper block for normal housing.

Something like this:


Then we will be able to make more custom loops without changing (not so cheap on the end) pump. It will be great profit.
+Pump will be still in use
+less vibrations which are amplified by socket (on the high speed of the pump)
+better flexibility of design
+saving a lot of money
+and the biggest advantage - better way to fill up the loop, removing air and placing a res.
+people will stay with Swiftech and let company earn more.

Really. Swiftech should make such a option because the biggest advantage of H220/320 is the biggest problem in later use. It's waste to put to "garbage" such a pump when it can work still in different location. Removing the pump every time when we are making any changes in the loop is waste of the time, thermal compound and it's dangerous for socket and GPU card.

It will be great if some one buying on the beginning the H220/320 and next, step by step he want to add new parts to the loop. Now it's quite difficult especially when someone want to put a VRM block. Tube will be short, so removing air form pump It will be extremely difficult.

I don't know how other people but for new housing which will transform a H220/320 in stand alone pump I can pay even 30+$ because I will save, on the end, lots of money if I need to buy new pump (d5 or ddc).

I was even thinking to check the ddc top but I'm quite sure now that I will not be match. Please Swiftech make something like this. Then H220/320 will be really big deal for making true custom loop. Everything what You need to do is redesign a inlet (put on the top) and outlet for G1/4 thread standard, in existing solution.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> if one of the nuts on the back plate has become stripped


Bram I have a question if you will. If two of the nuts on one side of my backplate (no innuendo) don't sit inside the groove (still not any innuendo) of the backplate (the hexagonal edges sit on top of the edges of the backplate), could it create a poor mount and contribute to higher temps? I initially assumed it wouldn't as the screws would still be screwing (NO INNUENDO) in (NONE) as far as they could go (OH DEAR GOD), but I've been experiencing higher temps than expected (nothing crazy though, might just have a bad IHS/chip), and a 10C difference between hottest/coolest core at load, which I'm told can be normal too. I've taken pics of the difference:




But if they did happen to move/lock into place, then the screws would need to turn more to get back to the same pressure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I have the pump plugged in the cpu PWN header so I would assume it goes full speed on load? if so, I would imagine that cpu temperatures would be similar as if I manually set the pump to max speed. I should probably try it to see if there is any changes.


So you've never actually monitored the pump speed (in a program like "hwinfo") while it's under stress? Probably a good idea, to make sure it's ramping up. In my mobo BIOS I had to set a few settings to choose when it ramps up the speed and to what % of max RPM it runs at when at full ball. In mine I set it so that when CPU temps are >70C it runs at 90% pump (and therefore fan speed too, as I'm using the provided splitter for them as well) speed.

Thinking about this, (and how pump RPM doesn't matter over ~1800 with just a CPU in the loop - this is right for H320 too yes?) it would be good if I could leave the pump at ~2000RPM but have the fans ramp up to 100% (1800RPM?) when >70C. Maybe leave the fans on the splitter plugged into CPU_FAN, but somehow control the pump with PWM manually. Just did a google and found this: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx. So there are PWM compatible fan controllers... can't see available at my local AU store though. Ah bugger it. Maybe I'll just let the pump ramp up, it has to be able to work at that speed as well, good for testing it early as I intend to eventually expand the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guinner16*
> 
> Well my H220 bit the dust last night while playing a game. I went from a120FPS to 2 FPS in about 10 seconds. I checked and sure enough the pump wasn't running.


This FPS problem (for me from ~300fps to ~2fps in L4D2, lasting for ~5-10 seconds) has happened to me a few (3?) times when gaming online (it was only affecting me not others, so not server). I've never seen it happen before, only since using the H320. But I didn't think to check pump speeds while it was happening. I will monitor them in the background from now, in case it is stopping/failing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> The pump on my h220 has started making a clicking sound (bought it new 2 months ago).


Mine now seems to have a faint buzz to it... no clicking or water yet fortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Blam said it shouldn't affect the pump


Lol 'blam'.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> You know...
> 
> The problems with air trapped inside the pump is not something new. I got whole new pump from Swiftech (great service and support) and it solved the problem for now. Old one had problems with air and probably ceramic shaft was broken
> 
> According to my experiences with H320, the best way to remove air from the loop is to open whole pump (copper block, get to impeller etc) and wash everything very well. Next put pump upside down and fill by water (before putting the tubes). Whole filling up the loop I was making when pump was upside down so air could get trap above impeller. Few hours later after shaking, moving pump You will remove most of the air. After installing is the best to run pump for many hours in 100% pwm speed. In the clear pipes everyone will be able to see very small air bubbles. After 24 hours of such a run the pump will remove all air.
> 
> Actually Swiftech should make something like with MCP35X. It will be great when we will be able to change the copper block for normal housing.
> 
> Something like this:
> 
> 
> Then we will be able to make more custom loops without changing (not so cheap on the end) pump. It will be great profit.
> +Pump will be still in use
> +less vibrations which are amplified by socket (on the high speed of the pump)
> +better flexibility of design
> +saving a lot of money
> +and the biggest advantage - better way to fill up the loop, removing air and placing a res.
> +people will stay with Swiftech and let company earn more.
> 
> Really. Swiftech should make such a option because the biggest advantage of H220/320 is the biggest problem in later use. It's waste to put to "garbage" such a pump when it can work still in different location. Removing the pump every time when we are making any changes in the loop is waste of the time, thermal compound and it's dangerous for socket and GPU card.
> 
> It will be great if some one buying on the beginning the H220/320 and next, step by step he want to add new parts to the loop. Now it's quite difficult especially when someone want to put a VRM block. Tube will be short, so removing air form pump It will be extremely difficult.
> 
> I don't know how other people but for new housing which will transform a H220/320 in stand alone pump I can pay even 30+$ because I will save, on the end, lots of money if I need to buy new pump (d5 or ddc).
> 
> I was even thinking to check the ddc top but I'm quite sure now that I will not be match. Please Swiftech make something like this. Then H220/320 will be really big deal for making true custom loop. Everything what You need to do is redesign a inlet (put on the top) and outlet for G1/4 thread standard, in existing solution.


Maybe that explains why i hear a gurgling noise every time the pump runs full speed on cpu load


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Maybe that explains why i hear a gurgling noise every time the pump runs full speed on cpu load


It's two places where air can be trapped:

1. On the back of impeller, close to the top of the pump - solution - before connecting to the loop u should put pump upside down change position of the burbs and fill up both of the burbs by water. Next little move the pump to put water on the bottom of impeller. Then still keeping pump upside down connect the tubes and fill up the intake tube by water (try to remove all air form tube). Next when u have a water don't start the pump. Shake it, move in different directions (still keeping upside down) to remove as much air as u can. You will see it - huge air bubbles will go on the both sides of pump (inlet and outlet). Then u will be unable to remove more air start pump for half minute and stop (for 99% you will hear the air trapped inside pump). Again move pump and shake it (still keeping upside down) quite strong and u will see small air bubbles which will go from outlet tube. You must repeat it many times and never put pump on in another position than upside down (swiftech logo on the bottom water block on the top). Better is to have air trapped near water block than on the back of impeller. Trust me - it's the best way.

Next when you will remove most of the air by shaking the pump (quite strong if I need to be honest) leave it, connected to the power supply for few hours (still outside the socket and upside down). In outlet pipe you will be able to see really tiny baubles run very fast and pump will get less noise. Sometimes You can switch off power wait around 15 min and again shake it. Never shake it during the running. Ceramic shaft and slave bearing really don't like such a "actions" during working. In my case removing most of the air in this way took around 8 hours. After this You should to put pump to the socket and run it for next few hours on 100% PWM speed. It will remove all air.

For me it works.

2. Sometimes inside a pump stuck some garbage like a tarnish which works like a glue for air. It's good to buy IPA and clean whole pump very very well.

Honestly I can't agree with Bram (I respect him like hell) that air will not cause damage. Mine first pump was quiet but after rebuild of the loop it got be loudly and after that it stay like this till today. Air for such a device means slow death. We don't know where exactly air stacks if on the top of impeller - no problem but if it will stuck near ceramic shaft it will cause huge problems because this kind of pumps use water as a grease.

In my opinion H220/320 pump isn't bad, it's just need more time for removing air and the can't make it in all positions. That's why I believe that the best position for this pump is upside down orientation during filling up whole loop and that's why I'm planning to use pump outside a socket and change (redesign) a water block section, to make it more looking like a MCP pump. Water flow should be bigger and it should solve permanently problem with air, which can stuck in one (or both) of two chambers (impeller or waterblock). Mine project will be very simple because I don't have access to Switech's blueprints but it should work.


----------



## guinner16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> This FPS problem (for me from ~300fps to ~2fps in L4D2, lasting for ~5-10 seconds) has happened to me a few (3?) times when gaming online (it was only affecting me not others, so not server). I've never seen it happen before, only since using the H320. But I didn't think to check pump speeds while it was happening. I will monitor them in the background from now, in case it is stopping/failing.


Mine never recovered though. It was instant 105 temps, which is why i shut down right away. I then waited for the block to cool and tried to startup. Got a CPU fan header error, and warning that temps were too high to boot. I put in the stock cooler and everything worked perfectly. My pump just went from working to dead in 10 seconds.

I worked with Bryan yesterday for the RMA, and so far customer service has been great. I will put an update on here once I get everything back up and running.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Man I hope my Glacer 240l never has those sort of issues...or at least I can easily fix it by draining and bleeding the loop. It would be a pain to ship my stuff to the US and be without a cooler while waiting for an RMA. (hopefully local CM can give me support)


----------



## rack04

Can anyone confirm if the Glacer 240l will fit in an original Fractal Arc Midi case?


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm pretty sure it will but can't confirm via first hand experience...


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it will but can't confirm via first hand experience...


^This, finding it hard to find a review that removes top dust cover, looks like exact same layout up top as the R2 (tight fit btw, the barbs will be in the optical bay a bit if you use the offset 120mm holes, I took the cage out)

Nevermind found this:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Bram I have a question if you will. If two of the nuts on one side of my backplate (no innuendo) don't sit inside the groove (still not any innuendo) of the backplate (the hexagonal edges sit on top of the edges of the backplate), could it create a poor mount and contribute to higher temps? I initially assumed it wouldn't as the screws would still be screwing (NO INNUENDO) in (NONE) as far as they could go (OH DEAR GOD), but I've been experiencing higher temps than expected (nothing crazy though, might just have a bad IHS/chip), and a 10C difference between hottest/coolest core at load, which I'm told can be normal too. I've taken pics of the difference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if they did happen to move/lock into place, then the screws would need to turn more to get back to the same pressure.


Yes, this could cause the issues you're having with temperatures. This is simply because without having the hexagonal nuts in place this can cause shifting of the block which would in turn cause your TIM joint to unseat. I'm not saying that this is definitely your issue, but it certainly could be.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I really can't get these air bubbles to go away.







Left my H220 running all night hoping they'd go away. Currently running it with the fill port open.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I really can't get these air bubbles to go away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left my H220 running all night hoping they'd go away. Currently running it with the fill port open.


Have you tried kinking the tubing going from the out port barb on the pump? You just need to kink if for a few seconds to a minute and then release it. This helps to put some pressure within the pump and then when you release it the bubbles should come out with it and get your pump to quiet down. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried kinking the tubing going from the out port barb on the pump? You just need to kink if for a few seconds to a minute and then release it. This helps to put some pressure within the pump and then when you release it the bubbles should come out with it and get your pump to quiet down. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


Just tried that, didn't make a difference.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Just tried that, didn't make a difference.


Can you post a recording of what it currently sounds like at full speed? This will help me to determine what the issue might be.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you post a recording of what it currently sounds like at full speed? This will help me to determine what the issue might be.


Here you go, I have the pump at full speed. The PWM splitter is plugged into my cpu fan header and set it in the bios to 100%.
I literally just uploaded so it may take a few minutes for the video to work.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Here you go, I have the pump at full speed. The PWM splitter is plugged into my cpu fan header and set it in the bios to 100%.
> I literally just uploaded so it may take a few minutes for the video to work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I really can't get these air bubbles to go away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left my H220 running all night hoping they'd go away. Currently running it with the fill port open.


That's what i did. I will write points because my English probably sucks -sorry:

1. Remove pump form loop
2. Open it (everything)
3. remove all parts (impeller, copper block etc. don't loose ceramic washer)
4. clean everything inside by IPA alcohol and next wash it by running water
5. put the block of the pump upside down and fill it by water and put to this water impeller. The impeller should be in the water.
6. Still keeping pump upside down put all parts together.
7. Then everything is again together put the water to the burbs (in and out one)
8. Connect the tubes and fill loop by coolant and be careful to not move pump
9. when inlet tube is full move a little bit pump in all directions to remove any air bubbles
10. start the pump for few seconds, switch off, shake/move and again start
11. Removing air You must make always when pump is upside down otherwise the air will stuck somewhere where you will be unable to remove it
12. pump in upside down position should run at least few hours on 100% speed
13. When you will be unable to see the tiny air bubbles running in outtake tube you can rotate the pump and put it in the socket
14. again You should run the pump for at least few hours in 100% speed
15. Problem solved

H220/320 pump is not easy and it's taking a lot of time to remove air from it so patience is highly recommended. I made the same mistake and I was trying to make everything to fast. But pump is not so powerful like D5 or DDC one. H220/320 don't have enough water flow to remove air just like that, especially with water block and in one position. Just You can allow that air will go on the back of impeller. That's why upside down position. Once the impeller "compartment" will be full of water, it will make pressure and prevent air go on the back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Here you go, I have the pump at full speed. The PWM splitter is plugged into my cpu fan header and set it in the bios to 100%.
> I literally just uploaded so it may take a few minutes for the video to work.


Yeap u fill it with copper block directed to the bottom and filling up should be upside down.

Try to use my way and it should solve the problem.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Here you go, I have the pump at full speed. The PWM splitter is plugged into my cpu fan header and set it in the bios to 100%.
> I literally just uploaded so it may take a few minutes for the video to work.


OK, here's what you'll probably have to do in order to get the pump to quiet down. It definitely sounds like you've got some air trapped in the pump though.

Empty the kit into a clean container so that you can reuse the coolant and then take the tubing off of the barbs on the pump. Then drop some coolant into both ports on either side of the pump to make sure that there's coolant in it before you re-attache the tubing. This will prevent the pump from sucking air back into it while filing and bleeding the loop.

Lord Nikkon's suggestion for getting air out of the pump is probably going to be more successful because it's a much more certain way of preventing the pump from sucking air into it when you're filling and bleeding the kit.

Let me know if this resolves your issue.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Thanks Bram,

I really feel lack of my language, but I'm trying.

You know what? I have old pump and I will make video how to fill the pump in the way which we made last time during our loooooong conversation (thanks a lot for Your great help and plenty of the great tips). Actually I have few, new ideas, how to remove the air and where it stacks. I think that impeller is not only one place, but I must check it.

Tomorrow I will buy some tubes and I will test one more way to solve this problem.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, here's what you'll probably have to do in order to get the pump to quiet down. It definitely sounds like you've got some air trapped in the pump though.
> 
> Empty the kit into a clean container so that you can reuse the coolant and then take the tubing off of the barbs on the pump. Then drop some coolant into both ports on either side of the pump to make sure that there's coolant in it before you re-attache the tubing. This will prevent the pump from sucking air back into it while filing and bleeding the loop.
> 
> Lord Nikkon's suggestion for getting air out of the pump is probably going to be more successful because it's a much more certain way of preventing the pump from sucking air into it when you're filling and bleeding the kit.
> 
> Let me know if this resolves your issue.


When I'm filling the pump should I have the copper block side down or up.

If this method doesn't work I'll try Lord Nikkon's method.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> When I'm filling the pump should I have the copper block side down or up.
> 
> If this method doesn't work I'll try Lord Nikkon's method.


Have the copper block facing up when you do this. It will help with keeping air from getting to the pump.


----------



## winderic

Hi All, I am about to order a H220 and this will be my first AIO water kit. Just have couple of questions
1. Does the pump issues still exit?
2. Do i need to run leak test? If so, do i run it while the pump is already install on the motherboard or just run it with pump only? I am guessing to power up the pump will have to use the PSU jump start method? How long leak test?
3. And the air bubbles issues that is causing the noise, can i remove the air bubbles while i was doing the leak test or do i have to install in the case first? Because Page 1 mention have to "tilt your case from side to side and from back to front....". For refilling the coolant, can i mix it with other brand or just use distilled water?
4. Any other things that i should prep before power up the system?

Sorry for all the questions, just quite nervous/worry about water cooling. I don't want it to damage my other components and i dont have spare cash to get it replace. Does Swiftech warranty cover damage on other parts?

Thanks All.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Hello Everyone,

I recently switched to a 3930K, Sabertooth X79, and a Swiftech H220. I'm having some interesting temperature fluctuations that I'd like to address.

I'm currently using Prolimatech PK-3, my rad is mounted to the bottom of the case in pull configuration using the two included fans (cold air is drawn immediately from bottom and then exhausted out of the front fan).

At default turbo boost settings (3.8) I start seeing 70C+ after only 2-3 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs. I am getting some pump noise, but even after trying the 'move pump around to dissipate bubbles' trick I did not see an improvement in temps. I've also checked the radiator inlet and it is filled to the brim with coolant.

I tried running the fans in push configuration (pulling cold air straight from bottom of case and pushing it through rad) and my temps went up 5-10C. It seems that in push config a significant amount of air ends up going AROUND the rad rather than through it, so I stuck with pull.

The pump and both fans are running through the included PWM splitter and then directly to the CPU header.

I'm wondering a few things:

1) Can the pump be ran directly off the CPU fan header on the Sabertooth x79? I'd really like to be able to control pump speeds separately from fan speeds, right now I'm only really controlling pump speed and the fans go along for the ride. I've also heard that running the pump at less than 100% can be more effective in a small loop, and more effective at eliminating air bubbles. Is there any truth to this?

2) Do I just have a really hot 3930K? When initially testing I was able to get to Windows at 4.8 GHz with only ~1.32v, so the chip itself is pretty stable. It's the temps that shoot up fast that worries me.

3) Will buying some NF-F12s and running push/pull (4 fans) offer any significant advantage to cooling performance with the H220?

4) Is there a serious disadvantage to having the pump above the rad (rad inlet facing up)? It's a closed loop system so I assume not, but comparing my thermal performance with others has me wondering. I can't effectively mount it at the top as the giant heat shield around the IO area on the Sabertooth X79 gets in the way of the H220's rad.

5) Any tricks to mounting the H220? I've re-pasted 3 times now using the prolimatech, I'm about ready to try the TIM-MATE2 to see if it's any better. I tried the 2 line method first, then the thin line method, and finally the pea-sized and spread method. I haven't seen any major difference between any of the methods. I did find that the Prolimatech PK-3 gave me a nice 5C drop when I re-pasted my GPUs, but I'm not sure about the performance on the H220.

Based on what I've seen around the intertubes, I should be getting approx 60C temps under load at default clocks. Yet I'm seeing 72-74 with 28C ambient.

My VRMs are hitting 70s under load as well, but those guys are stable up to 105 or so afaik so I'm not that worried. I also have 2 140mm fans in intake configuration mounted on the top of my CM-690 2 to cool the VRMs heatsinks.

I should mention that I'm running 6 4GB modules of Mushkin 1866. With this much RAM density, am I going to be putting out way more heat than most? I know the 3930K is known as a 'hot chip', but I really expected better performance at default clocks from the H220 considering its quality and pump reliability.

Finally, I'm using offset mode, c-states enabled, regular LLC, ASUS optimized power states, 120% current threshold (on CPU and RAM), and set VCCSA / VTT voltages of 1.1, and set RAM voltage of 1.5. System is 100% stable at default clocks.

Thanks!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Hi All, I am about to order a H220 and this will be my first AIO water kit. Just have couple of questions
> 1. Does the pump issues still exit?
> 2. Do i need to run leak test? If so, do i run it while the pump is already install on the motherboard or just run it with pump only? I am guessing to power up the pump will have to use the PSU jump start method? How long leak test?
> 3. And the air bubbles issues that is causing the noise, can i remove the air bubbles while i was doing the leak test or do i have to install in the case first? Because Page 1 mention have to "tilt your case from side to side and from back to front....". For refilling the coolant, can i mix it with other brand or just use distilled water?
> 4. Any other things that i should prep before power up the system?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, just quite nervous/worry about water cooling. I don't want it to damage my other components and i dont have spare cash to get it replace. Does Swiftech warranty cover damage on other parts?
> 
> Thanks All.


1. In my research, it seemed that a lot of the pump issues were affected with earlier batches of the H220 and that the more recently manufactured kits should be OK. Although, the Swiftech reps will be able to elaborate much more than I can. I've had my kit for about a month, and the pump has been absolutely silent from the start - not one bit of trouble with it.

2. Some do, some don't. Personally, I ran it for about a day before I installed because it just made more sense to me to check it ahead of time in case there were issues. I got a SATA to AC power adapter, so I can just plug it into the wall and run it easily. If you got an extra SATA cable on your PSU that can reach, that will work just fine.

3. I didn't have any problems with air bubbles. However, when testing it I did make a point of trying to keep the radiator above the pump (particularly when it was running) to keep the pump primed. I've also been told that it's advisable to keep the fill port be kept pointing up if you mount the radiator on the top panel of the case as this helps trap any extra air in the loop.

4. The only thing I can think of is read up on the installation (granted, it's quite straight forward) and take your time fitting everything together. This is a great kit to start with!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I recently switched to a 3930K, Sabertooth X79, and a Swiftech H220. I'm having some interesting temperature fluctuations that I'd like to address.
> 
> I'm currently using Prolimatech PK-3, my rad is mounted to the bottom of the case in pull configuration using the two included fans (cold air is drawn immediately from bottom and then exhausted out of the front fan).
> 
> At default turbo boost settings (3.8) I start seeing 70C+ after only 2-3 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs. I am getting some pump noise, but even after trying the 'move pump around to dissipate bubbles' trick I did not see an improvement in temps. I've also checked the radiator inlet and it is filled to the brim with coolant.
> 
> I tried running the fans in push configuration (pulling cold air straight from bottom of case and pushing it through rad) and my temps went up 5-10C. It seems that in push config a significant amount of air ends up going AROUND the rad rather than through it, so I stuck with pull.
> 
> The pump and both fans are running through the included PWM splitter and then directly to the CPU header.
> 
> I'm wondering a few things:
> 
> 1) Can the pump be ran directly off the CPU fan header on the Sabertooth x79? I'd really like to be able to control pump speeds separately from fan speeds, right now I'm only really controlling pump speed and the fans go along for the ride. I've also heard that running the pump at less than 100% can be more effective in a small loop, and more effective at eliminating air bubbles. Is there any truth to this?
> 
> 2) Do I just have a really hot 3930K? When initially testing I was able to get to Windows at 4.8 GHz with only ~1.32v, so the chip itself is pretty stable. It's the temps that shoot up fast that worries me.
> 
> 3) Will buying some NF-F12s and running push/pull (4 fans) offer any significant advantage to cooling performance with the H220?
> 
> 4) Is there a serious disadvantage to having the pump above the rad (rad inlet facing up)? It's a closed loop system so I assume not, but comparing my thermal performance with others has me wondering. I can't effectively mount it at the top as the giant heat shield around the IO area on the Sabertooth X79 gets in the way of the H220's rad.
> 
> 5) Any tricks to mounting the H220? I've re-pasted 3 times now using the prolimatech, I'm about ready to try the TIM-MATE2 to see if it's any better. I tried the 2 line method first, then the thin line method, and finally the pea-sized and spread method. I haven't seen any major difference between any of the methods. I did find that the Prolimatech PK-3 gave me a nice 5C drop when I re-pasted my GPUs, but I'm not sure about the performance on the H220.
> 
> Based on what I've seen around the intertubes, I should be getting approx 60C temps under load at default clocks. Yet I'm seeing 72-74 with 28C ambient.
> 
> My VRMs are hitting 70s under load as well, but those guys are stable up to 105 or so afaik so I'm not that worried. I also have 2 140mm fans in intake configuration mounted on the top of my CM-690 2 to cool the VRMs heatsinks.
> 
> *I should mention that I'm running 6 4GB modules of Mushkin 1866. With this much RAM density, am I going to be putting out way more heat than most?* I know the 3930K is known as a 'hot chip', but I really expected better performance at default clocks from the H220 considering its quality and pump reliability.
> 
> Finally, I'm using offset mode, c-states enabled, regular LLC, ASUS optimized power states, 120% current threshold (on CPU and RAM), and set VCCSA / VTT voltages of 1.1, and set RAM voltage of 1.5. System is 100% stable at default clocks.
> 
> Thanks!


RAM does not give off any appreciable heat.

The only problems I had mounting the H220 were getting the bottom screws on the inside fans mounted.


----------



## tike71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> 1) Can the pump be ran directly off the CPU fan header on the Sabertooth x79? I'd really like to be able to control pump speeds separately from fan speeds, right now I'm only really controlling pump speed and the fans go along for the ride. I've also heard that running the pump at less than 100% can be more effective in a small loop, and more effective at eliminating air bubbles. Is there any truth to this?


The pump runs off the sata power cable and connects to a pwm fan header to control its speed. I wouldn't put the pump's pwm connector on any splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> 3) Will buying some NF-F12s and running push/pull (4 fans) offer any significant advantage to cooling performance with the H220?


Check out this video: 



The NF-F12s help tremendously.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I recently switched to a 3930K, Sabertooth X79, and a Swiftech H220. I'm having some interesting temperature fluctuations that I'd like to address.
> 
> I'm currently using Prolimatech PK-3, my rad is mounted to the bottom of the case in pull configuration using the two included fans (cold air is drawn immediately from bottom and then exhausted out of the front fan).
> 
> At default turbo boost settings (3.8) I start seeing 70C+ after only 2-3 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs. I am getting some pump noise, but even after trying the 'move pump around to dissipate bubbles' trick I did not see an improvement in temps. I've also checked the radiator inlet and it is filled to the brim with coolant.
> 
> I tried running the fans in push configuration (pulling cold air straight from bottom of case and pushing it through rad) and my temps went up 5-10C. It seems that in push config a significant amount of air ends up going AROUND the rad rather than through it, so I stuck with pull.
> 
> The pump and both fans are running through the included PWM splitter and then directly to the CPU header.
> 
> I'm wondering a few things:
> 
> 1) Can the pump be ran directly off the CPU fan header on the Sabertooth x79? I'd really like to be able to control pump speeds separately from fan speeds, right now I'm only really controlling pump speed and the fans go along for the ride. I've also heard that running the pump at less than 100% can be more effective in a small loop, and more effective at eliminating air bubbles. Is there any truth to this?
> 
> 2) Do I just have a really hot 3930K? When initially testing I was able to get to Windows at 4.8 GHz with only ~1.32v, so the chip itself is pretty stable. It's the temps that shoot up fast that worries me.
> 
> 3) Will buying some NF-F12s and running push/pull (4 fans) offer any significant advantage to cooling performance with the H220?
> 
> 4) Is there a serious disadvantage to having the pump above the rad (rad inlet facing up)? It's a closed loop system so I assume not, but comparing my thermal performance with others has me wondering. I can't effectively mount it at the top as the giant heat shield around the IO area on the Sabertooth X79 gets in the way of the H220's rad.
> 
> 5) Any tricks to mounting the H220? I've re-pasted 3 times now using the prolimatech, I'm about ready to try the TIM-MATE2 to see if it's any better. I tried the 2 line method first, then the thin line method, and finally the pea-sized and spread method. I haven't seen any major difference between any of the methods. I did find that the Prolimatech PK-3 gave me a nice 5C drop when I re-pasted my GPUs, but I'm not sure about the performance on the H220.
> 
> Based on what I've seen around the intertubes, I should be getting approx 60C temps under load at default clocks. Yet I'm seeing 72-74 with 28C ambient.
> 
> My VRMs are hitting 70s under load as well, but those guys are stable up to 105 or so afaik so I'm not that worried. I also have 2 140mm fans in intake configuration mounted on the top of my CM-690 2 to cool the VRMs heatsinks.
> 
> I should mention that I'm running 6 4GB modules of Mushkin 1866. With this much RAM density, am I going to be putting out way more heat than most? I know the 3930K is known as a 'hot chip', but I really expected better performance at default clocks from the H220 considering its quality and pump reliability.
> 
> Finally, I'm using offset mode, c-states enabled, regular LLC, ASUS optimized power states, 120% current threshold (on CPU and RAM), and set VCCSA / VTT voltages of 1.1, and set RAM voltage of 1.5. System is 100% stable at default clocks.
> 
> Thanks!






I am on a very similar setup to yours and even with the added 140mm rad I still see 70-77c during small fft in prime. Adding rads though is not supposed to drop temps to much but really help in supporting addition devices like GPU blocks. I use mx4 and think that it was about 1-3c better than the Tim-mate supplied but really the tim mate is a good paste. my 3930k is at 4.6 at 1.32-1.336 in prime fft. Its a monster chip in reality and these are in my opinion good temps, for such an unrealistic load on the CPU. During normal load I never break 60c even in IBT very high I don't see above 70c. I at one point had the h220 alone with P/P fans and really only saw about 1-3c difference. I do plan to upgrade to gentle typhoon 1450 at some point.

Hope that helps, I think everything your experiencing is normal


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> RAM does not give off any appreciable heat.
> 
> The only problems I had mounting the H220 were getting the bottom screws on the inside fans mounted.


Thanks for your response.

However, I'm referring to the additional load on the integrated memory controller in the CPU, therefore causing the CPU to (theoretically?) output more heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> 
> I am on a very similar setup to yours and even with the added 140mm rad I still see 70-77c during small fft in prime. Adding rads though is not supposed to drop temps to much but really help in supporting addition devices like GPU blocks. I use mx4 and think that it was about 1-3c better than the Tim-mate supplied but really the tim mate is a good paste. my 3930k is at 4.6 at 1.32-1.336 in prime fft. Its a monster chip in reality and these are in my opinion good temps, for such an unrealistic load on the CPU. During normal load I never break 70c even in IBT very high I don't see above 70c. I at one point had the h220 alone with P/P fans and really only saw about 1-3c difference. I do plan to upgrade to gentle typhoon 1450 at some point.
> 
> Hope that helps, I think everything your experiencing is normal


Appreciate the input. I'm currently trying out Lord Nikkon's thorough priming guide. I've already cleaned the loop with iso, cleaned out the copper block (it was surprisingly dirty), and I'm running the pump right now to try and eliminate the bubbles.

What confuses me is that the impeller seems to be much louder than it was when I first ran it a couple weeks ago. It was very quiet aside from some bubble noises, but now any time it gets near 75%+ load it seems to be very noticeable.

I'm planning on trying to get it 100% air bubble free and then re-configuring how I have it attached to the mobo so I can keep the pump at about 1900 RPM, as others including the Swiftech rep have mentioned, for just a CPU it shouldn't make more than 1C difference. Hopefully that will help.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Thanks for your response.
> 
> However, I'm referring to the additional load on the integrated memory controller in the CPU, therefore causing the CPU to (theoretically?) output more heat.


I've mentioned this to our engineer previously and he's told me that the integrated memory controller on these CPUs is not going to put out enough heat to make any appreciable difference in temperatures. The amount of memory you use will therefore also not make any difference.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've mentioned this to our engineer previously and he's told me that the integrated memory controller on these CPUs is not going to put out enough heat to make any appreciable difference in temperatures. The amount of memory you use will therefore also not make any difference.


Thanks Bram! Any chance you can comment on whether or not I should be running the pump through the splitter, no matter what? The documentation on the H220 doesn't specifically mention this.

I also noticed that when I got my H220, the fans were leaking oil, so perhaps their performance isn't optimal.

I just wish I knew why the impeller is so much louder now (especially once it's 'vertical'). When I disassembled it to clean, I didn't see any issues.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Thanks Bram! Any chance you can comment on whether or not I should be running the pump through the splitter, no matter what? The documentation on the H220 doesn't specifically mention this.
> 
> I also noticed that when I got my H220, the fans were leaking oil, so perhaps their performance isn't optimal.
> 
> I just wish I knew why the impeller is so much louder now (especially once it's 'vertical'). When I disassembled it to clean, I didn't see any issues.


To be on the safe side I would use the splitter to power the pump. The documentation pretty much states that you can connect it either way, but the splitter will ensure that the pump is getting constant power. As for your other questions, can you send me a PM so that I can help you resolve these issues.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tike71*
> 
> The pump runs off the sata power cable and connects to a pwm fan header to control its speed. I wouldn't put the pump's pwm connector on any splitter.
> Check out this video:
> 
> 
> 
> The NF-F12s help tremendously.


Just to avoid anyone else being misinformed, the pump included with the H220 does not have a separate sata power cable.

In addition, the video you linked is also incorrect, as Linus Tech Tips later learned that they were running the fans at a low speed due to using the noctua speed limiting adapter. They posted a revised review showing the performance very close to each other (not nearly the 16-20C difference they experienced in the first review).

I'm specifically looking for information on Push/Pull configs (that is 4 fans vs 2). Thanks for your input, though.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Just to avoid anyone else being misinformed, the pump included with the H220 does not have a separate sata power cable.
> 
> In addition, the video you linked is also incorrect, as Linus Tech Tips later learned that they were running the fans at a low speed due to using the noctua speed limiting adapter. They posted a revised review showing the performance very close to each other (not nearly the 16-20C difference they experienced in the first review).
> 
> I'm specifically looking for information on Push/Pull configs (that is 4 fans vs 2). Thanks for your input, though.


The H220 pump only has a PWM header. The 240L has a PWM fan header but receives its power from a SATA connector, just to clarify.


----------



## tike71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Just to avoid anyone else being misinformed, the pump included with the H220 does not have a separate sata power cable.
> 
> In addition, the video you linked is also incorrect, as Linus Tech Tips later learned that they were running the fans at a low speed due to using the noctua speed limiting adapter. They posted a revised review showing the performance very close to each other (not nearly the 16-20C difference they experienced in the first review).
> 
> I'm specifically looking for information on Push/Pull configs (that is 4 fans vs 2). Thanks for your input, though.


My apologies. I have the glacer which runs off sata so I assumed the h220 did as well.


----------



## Robilar

Pretty sure my H220 runs off SATA as well. I have to think about when I installed it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Pretty sure my H220 runs off SATA as well. I have to think about when I installed it.


Later H220s and all H320s have a SATA powered PWM splitter, which is the recommended power supply of the unit. However, the pumps themselves just have the PWM splitter.

The reason the 240L is different is because the pump uses much more watts at 3500 rpm than 3000, so its even less viable to run the pump solely through the CPU header.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Today I made some kind of troturial - how to remove air from the pump. I hope it can be useful. For me this way works great.




It's quite long but I was making everything step by step. Hope it will be useful.


----------



## winderic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> 1. In my research, it seemed that a lot of the pump issues were affected with earlier batches of the H220 and that the more recently manufactured kits should be OK. Although, the Swiftech reps will be able to elaborate much more than I can. I've had my kit for about a month, and the pump has been absolutely silent from the start - not one bit of trouble with it.
> 
> 2. Some do, some don't. Personally, I ran it for about a day before I installed because it just made more sense to me to check it ahead of time in case there were issues. I got a SATA to AC power adapter, so I can just plug it into the wall and run it easily. If you got an extra SATA cable on your PSU that can reach, that will work just fine.
> 
> 3. I didn't have any problems with air bubbles. However, when testing it I did make a point of trying to keep the radiator above the pump (particularly when it was running) to keep the pump primed. I've also been told that it's advisable to keep the fill port be kept pointing up if you mount the radiator on the top panel of the case as this helps trap any extra air in the loop.
> 
> 4. The only thing I can think of is read up on the installation (granted, it's quite straight forward) and take your time fitting everything together. This is a great kit to start with!


Thanks francisw19 for your reply. Will place the order tonight, hopefully won't be disappointed with it.
Anyone have any more feedback?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Thanks francisw19 for your reply. Will place the order tonight, hopefully won't be disappointed with it.
> Anyone have any more feedback?


Honestly? H220/320 maybe has sometimes some issues but thanks God the support from Swiftech is awesome. I prefer to have such a device and know that always I can count on company support then have other device and fighting with RMA division for months to replace broken stuff. It's a really big deal In present times when all big companies want to screw You during RMA. Swiftech don't.

Take Swiftech. I the case of problems Bram will help You (he is really trying) to who I have great respect. In my opinion Swiftech is the great option on the market.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Today I made some kind of troturial - how to remove air from the pump. I hope it can be useful. For me this way works great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite long but I was making everything step by step. Hope it will be useful.


Amazing video! A bit long, but very easy to follow. Thank you for posting this.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Amazing video! A bit long, but very easy to follow. Thank you for posting this.


Thanks man,
I really didn't feel it's so long when I was recording it. I noticed it when I check a file, but You know how I love to talk







I think that this movie includes most of information and solutions which we discussed during putting my loop together


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Today I made some kind of troturial - how to remove air from the pump. I hope it can be useful. For me this way works great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite long but I was making everything step by step. Hope it will be useful.


This helps a lot. I was little skeptical of taking my pump apart.

Thanks Lord Nikkon









EDIT: I noticed in your video you're talking about the orientation of the pump. Due to heatsink placement on mobo, I have to install the cpu block sideway rather than the way you demonstrate in the video. Hopefully that doesn't cause air bubbles for me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> This helps a lot. I was little skeptical of taking my pump apart.
> 
> Thanks Lord Nikkon


From looking at the video I don't see anything in it that would void the warranty on this pump either. I haven't been able to officially confirm that yet, but I'll try and have an answer on that shortly.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From looking at the video I don't see anything in it that would void the warranty on this pump either. I haven't been able to officially confirm that yet, but I'll try and have an answer on that shortly.


I haven't taken it apart yet, I'll wait for your confirmation on whether it voids it or not.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> This helps a lot. I was little skeptical of taking my pump apart.
> 
> Thanks Lord Nikkon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I noticed in your video you're talking about the orientation of the pump. Due to heatsink placement on mobo, I have to install the cpu block sideway rather than the way you demonstrate in the video. Hopefully that doesn't cause air bubbles for me.


Orientation of the pump in the socket is not so important. Important is how u will put the pump during filling up the loop and removing "primal", big air bubbles. When You will put it in the socket, You must start pump with PC and setup PWM speed on 100%. Small air bubbles will mix with the water in the impeller compartment and go with water outside. If air will stuck in the water block section, than is no chance to remove it when whole pump will be in the socket.

If I can recommend you something.

I showed two ways how to solve problem with air. One (with opening whole pump) is a hard way, but If you worry to open the pump and lose a warranty, you can use second way, by filling up in- and outlet burbs by water. Usually it works, especially if You will keep the pump like I show on vid. Opening the pump is not difficult and if you will not use hammer nothing can be broke.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I haven't taken it apart yet, I'll wait for your confirmation on whether it voids it or not.


Here Bram must say what does he thinking about it and what is policy of Swiftech for such a "operations". In my opinion, taking of the copper block (for cleaning or filling up by water) shouldn't void a warranty. Opening a impeller section .... hmmm Hard to say. It's difficult to broke something, but everything can happen.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Here Bram must say what does he thinking about it and what is policy of Swiftech for such a "operations". In my opinion, taking of the copper block (for cleaning or filling up by water) shouldn't void a warranty. Opening a impeller section .... hmmm Hard to say. It's difficult to broke something, but everything can happen.


I'm just waiting for the engineers to get in so that I can confirm with them that this procedure won't void the warranty. I don't see anything in the video that would, but I just need to confirm that with them before making it official.

OK, here's the official word. If the customer that intends to do this contacts us first, and a technician such as myself is involved in overseeing and supervising the process, then this won't void your warranty.

If you decide to do this on your own and something goes wrong, our warranty for this pump will be void. This is because without supervision we'll have no way of knowing just how closely these procedures were followed and the amount of care involved with carrying them out.

Please PM me if you have any questions concerning this.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Bram,

Hehehe. So soon Swiftech need to buy for You a professional camera and really good and fast internet connection to make such a supervisions, but seriously I'm thinking what can go wrong. On the bright side - Bram is true master so he can advice a lot things and Swiftech must has control under such a operations. I can understand this.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Bram,
> 
> Hehehe. So soon Swiftech need to buy for You a professional camera and really good and fast internet connection to make such a supervisions, but seriously I'm thinking what can go wrong. On the bright side - Bram is true master so he can advice a lot things and Swiftech must has control under such a operations. I can understand this.


lol, might be a tad hard doing that over the internet.


----------



## SouthernStyle

Hey guys, I've been trying to do as much research on the CM Glacer 240L as I can before I buy, but I have a few questions about what to do as far as adding an additional radiator to it. I have a CM 690 II Advanced case and I plan to mount the 240L in the top as exhaust in push configuration. I want to add another 120.2 radiator to the bottom in push/pull configuration as an intake. From what I can find, the Swiftech MCR220-XP radiator is pretty close to the one that comes with the 240L kit, but it is 34mm thick instead of the 29mm of the one with the kit. Is there a model you can buy separately that is identical to the one with the kit minus the reservoir? That isn't exactly a problem as I have measured and will still have room to fit it with the push/pull in the bottom.

Also, I am having trouble finding the fin count of the radiator in the kit, as I plan to just buy 4 more CM Blademaster 120s to use for the push/pull and I wanted to make sure those would still be good with the 20fpi of the Swiftech rad I was planning to get. Unless someone can recommend better fans to use, I'm definitely open, because I've been wracking my brain looking at fans lately. For reference, I have 2x 120mm fans as front intakes, 2x 120mm side intakes, 1x 120mm back exhaust (plus the 2 that will be top exhaust) and 1x 80mm MB side exhaust.

So basically, I'm looking for recommendations on a low profile 120.2 rad and fans to add to the loop, and if anyone can, help point me in the direction of what size/type fittings I will need to do this, as I plan to just order everything at once instead of waiting on the kit to figure out what I need.

Thanks much in advance for anyone who can help me out.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been trying to do as much research on the CM Glacer 240L as I can before I buy, but I have a few questions about what to do as far as adding an additional radiator to it. I have a CM 690 II Advanced case and I plan to mount the 240L in the top as exhaust in push configuration. I want to add another 120.2 radiator to the bottom in push/pull configuration as an intake. From what I can find, the Swiftech MCR220-XP radiator is pretty close to the one that comes with the 240L kit, but it is 34mm thick instead of the 29mm of the one with the kit. Is there a model you can buy separately that is identical to the one with the kit minus the reservoir? That isn't exactly a problem as I have measured and will still have room to fit it with the push/pull in the bottom.
> 
> Also, I am having trouble finding the fin count of the radiator in the kit, as I plan to just buy 4 more CM Blademaster 120s to use for the push/pull and I wanted to make sure those would still be good with the 20fpi of the Swiftech rad I was planning to get. Unless someone can recommend better fans to use, I'm definitely open, because I've been wracking my brain looking at fans lately. For reference, I have 2x 120mm fans as front intakes, 2x 120mm side intakes, 1x 120mm back exhaust (plus the 2 that will be top exhaust) and 1x 80mm MB side exhaust.
> 
> So basically, I'm looking for recommendations on a low profile 120.2 rad and fans to add to the loop, and if anyone can, help point me in the direction of what size/type fittings I will need to do this, as I plan to just order everything at once instead of waiting on the kit to figure out what I need.
> 
> Thanks much in advance for anyone who can help me out.


OK, you'll want our MCR 220 QP. It's essentially the same radiator as that of this kit, but just without the reservoir. You'll be hard pressed to find a decent radiator that's thinner than 34mm though. This is about the closest that you'll find to the one that comes with this kit.

The fin count is approximately 12 fins per inch. This allows for slower speed fans to still be able to circulate air through the radiator without too much restriction.


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm considering a 480 or 360 mcr xp or qp rad...I think it would be enough to cool a quad core at 5ghz and a 290X at 1300mhz core, right? (got a glacer 240l)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I'm considering a 480 or 360 mcr xp or qp rad...I think it would be enough to cool a quad core at 5ghz and a 290X at 1300mhz core, right? (got a glacer 240l)


Yes, that should be enough surface area to cool those components well. There are some other factors involved, but the surface area of that radiator should be sufficient.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been trying to do as much research on the CM Glacer 240L as I can before I buy, but I have a few questions about what to do as far as adding an additional radiator to it. I have a CM 690 II Advanced case and I plan to mount the 240L in the top as exhaust in push configuration. I want to add another 120.2 radiator to the bottom in push/pull configuration as an intake. From what I can find, the Swiftech MCR220-XP radiator is pretty close to the one that comes with the 240L kit, but it is 34mm thick instead of the 29mm of the one with the kit. Is there a model you can buy separately that is identical to the one with the kit minus the reservoir? That isn't exactly a problem as I have measured and will still have room to fit it with the push/pull in the bottom.
> 
> Also, I am having trouble finding the fin count of the radiator in the kit, as I plan to just buy 4 more CM Blademaster 120s to use for the push/pull and I wanted to make sure those would still be good with the 20fpi of the Swiftech rad I was planning to get. Unless someone can recommend better fans to use, I'm definitely open, because I've been wracking my brain looking at fans lately. For reference, I have 2x 120mm fans as front intakes, 2x 120mm side intakes, 1x 120mm back exhaust (plus the 2 that will be top exhaust) and 1x 80mm MB side exhaust.
> 
> So basically, I'm looking for recommendations on a low profile 120.2 rad and fans to add to the loop, and if anyone can, help point me in the direction of what size/type fittings I will need to do this, as I plan to just order everything at once instead of waiting on the kit to figure out what I need.
> 
> Thanks much in advance for anyone who can help me out.


Since I, ivanlabrie also, am very familiar with the 690 II case I'll chime in. I assume the Glacer is also based on the QP series rads which is a low FPI rad. The XP rads are higher FPI. This means they typically perform worse at low fan speeds while at high fan speeds it will outperform the QP rads. Low FPI rads is just my personal preference, I like low fan speeds/low noise. There's nothing wrong with high FPI rads, it's just a matter of taste really.

Two things to note for bottom mounting rads in the 690 II.

First, you need to make sure your psu isn't over ~160mm in length. If say it's 170mm a bottom 240mm rad just won't quite fit. The rad would be right up against the psu cables and probably not align with the fan holes on the bottom.

Second, a 35mm thick rad fits just fine in the bottom. Typically the thicker the rad the better, more surface area = more cooling potential. Even a 60mm fits in the bottom with push/pull fans assuming you don't have a GPU in a very low slot in the mobo.

I believe this here is an RX240(60mm thick) in a 690 II with push/pull:


----------



## ivanlabrie

Nice, thanks...I have rotated my case, so it looks and works like an FT02 and it has no hdd nor optical bays anymore, just free space for rads


----------



## SouthernStyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Since I, ivanlabrie also, am very familiar with the 690 II case I'll chime in. I assume the Glacer is also based on the QP series rads which is a low FPI rad. The XP rads are higher FPI. This means they typically perform worse at low fan speeds while at high fan speeds it will outperform the QP rads. Low FPI rads is just my personal preference, I like low fan speeds/low noise. There's nothing wrong with high FPI rads, it's just a matter of taste really.
> 
> Two things to note for bottom mounting rads in the 690 II.
> 
> First, you need to make sure your psu isn't over ~160mm in length. If say it's 170mm a bottom 240mm rad just won't quite fit. The rad would be right up against the psu cables and probably not align with the fan holes on the bottom.
> 
> Second, a 35mm thick rad fits just fine in the bottom. Typically the thicker the rad the better, more surface area = more cooling potential. Even a 60mm fits in the bottom with push/pull fans assuming you don't have a GPU in a very low slot in the mobo.
> 
> I believe this here is an RX240(60mm thick) in a 690 II with push/pull:


Thanks for the reply. My PSU shouldn't be in the in the way, I measured everything last night, in fact that looks just like my PSU in the pic you posted (I have a Seasonic X850). I did realize the thicker the rad the better but I guess I just never thought about going that large, that's the first pic I've seen of one that size in the 690 II. I only have one graphics card now (R9-280x) but would like to add another soon, so I'll put mine in the bottom slot just so I can measure and see what size I can cram in there. I also like the idea of getting the lower FPI rad, so now I guess I have to go search through fans for another couple hours... any suggestions for that? Or will the CM Blademasters be just fine? Just trying to find the best balance of speed / sound / static pressure and from the specs they seem pretty good.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Blademasters are noisier than my Gelid Silent 12 pwm's but they are definitely strong...price/perf the Gelids are better imho.


----------



## zila

It would be really nice if Swiftech would supply us with rebuild kits for these pumps. I think that would be awesome because when these loops go out of warranty it at least gives us the option to rebuild them if/when they fail.

If mine goes out, I would rather have Bram send me out another pump or a rebuild kit for my current pump. With the appropriate parts, I can rebuild my pump in a matter of minutes if needed. Hint, hint Gabe.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> So basically, I'm looking for recommendations on a low profile 120.2 rad and fans to add to the loop, and if anyone can, help point me in the direction of what size/type fittings I will need to do this, as I plan to just order everything at once instead of waiting on the kit to figure out what I need.
> 
> Thanks much in advance for anyone who can help me out.


When it comes to Rad Thickness, I think the slimmest retail radiator is:

25mm: Black Ice Pro II, I dont think any other retail radiator that's still on sale reaches something this thin
29-30: Magicool Extreme Dual Slim Profile, Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Slim
34-36: XSPC EX240, Swiftech MCR220-QP

are just some typical examples


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. My PSU shouldn't be in the in the way, I measured everything last night, in fact that looks just like my PSU in the pic you posted (I have a Seasonic X850). I did realize the thicker the rad the better but I guess I just never thought about going that large, that's the first pic I've seen of one that size in the 690 II. I only have one graphics card now (R9-280x) but would like to add another soon, so I'll put mine in the bottom slot just so I can measure and see what size I can cram in there. I also like the idea of getting the lower FPI rad, so now I guess I have to go search through fans for another couple hours... any suggestions for that? Or will the CM Blademasters be just fine? Just trying to find the best balance of speed / sound / static pressure and from the specs they seem pretty good.


As you know there are many, many fans out there. Quite a few of them get the job done just fine. So here is just a list of common rad fans in no particular order.

Swiftech Helix, Corsair SP's, Cougar Vortex, Scythe/servo-nidec Gentle Typhoon AP-15, Noctua NF-F12, Noiseblockers, and many more... If you want to go cheap as possible then Yate Loons are an option. Check out Jab-tech.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Please go back and read my post. I already gave you the solution to quiet down your pump. What part did you not understand, maybe I can help?
> "3 pin = fan controller
> pwm = motherboard
> molex = make a male molex to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> sata = make a male sata to male 3 pin and hook it up to a fan controller
> 
> there's always a way..."
> 
> You can control the rpm of any watercooling pump using the above solutions
> 
> As for the other info you requested,
> H220 pump:
> min speed: 1500rpm
> max speed: 3000rpm
> extremely quiet
> difference between 20% (1500 rpm) and 100% (3000 rpm) is 2c at max load. At 1500 rpm it's inaudible unless I put my ear physically next to it. At 3000rpm I can hear it, but it's not loud. At 2000 RPM my low speed fans drown out the pump sound


I have looked that up, and from what i've found it appears it's not really recommended to do any voltage adjustment to the pump. One person's stopped working at a lower voltage and now only starts at full voltage.

Saying that, i think it would be more than quiet enough if i could get it to run at half speed.

There's less noise in the H220 pumps due to being mounted on the waterblock, same with the Apogee Drive II.. plus they're speed adjustable. I see for lowest possible pump noise i'd have to go completely custom and have a pump that's not attached to the case. But i much prefer a 2/3 component simple loop, having the radiator close to the cpu for 2 way and potentially a gpu for 3 way, going fully custom would mean i'd have a reservoir stuck near the drive bays. For me then i think it gets a bit too much with the clutter and access to stuff in the case, i like the simplicity of these (limited) options.

But then replacing my stuff with a H220/320 would bring upgrade issues because the pump is built into the block, so no chance of replacing for a better block. I would run into the same problem with the Apogee Drive II pump as well, and i would have to get swiftech rads since they are the only ones that have built in reservoirs.







If i could hear how quiet the pumps are on low/medium settings i'd know for sure.

Out of curiosity though, does anyone know how close to a complete custom loop the H220/320's are if using same fans etc? I guess the biggest benefit for these would be adding in the GPU to the loop to reduce noise further.

Is a pump @ lowest speed going to affect cpu & gpu temps as little as if just the cpu alone was cooled?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> lol, might be a tad hard doing that over the internet.


Not so. I'm Polish who live in Japan, Bram is in California. We made appointment and let's go. Not so difficult on the end.


----------



## abgersaurus

I might as well join!







oh... and if BranSLI reads this then, I figured it out in the end got got a new H220 by the website I bought it from, but thanks for your help anyway


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abgersaurus*
> 
> I might as well join!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh... and if BranSLI reads this then, I figured it out in the end got got a new H220 by the website I bought it from, but thanks for your help anyway


Glad to hear it and the rig looks great!


----------



## abgersaurus

thanks!


----------



## thebto

I am curious about the general consensus in this thread about TIM usage with the h220/glacer among owners. What did you guys use? The line (as shown in the included instructions)? Or the bb sized (4-5mm) as is generally recommended for many other heatsinks?

Reason I ask is because I was planning on using the bb-sized TIM application when I build my system in a few weeks.

Thanks for any input on this matter, just trying to gauge application method and subsequent temperatures obtained with your CPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> I am curious about the general consensus in this thread about TIM usage with the h220/glacer among owners. What did you guys use? The line (as shown in the included instructions)? Or the bb sized (4-5mm) as is generally recommended for many other heatsinks?
> 
> Reason I ask is because I was planning on using the bb-sized TIM application when I build my system in a few weeks.
> 
> Thanks for any input on this matter, just trying to gauge application method and subsequent temperatures obtained with your CPU.


FYI, our own testing has shown the line method that's demonstrated in the instructions is the best method for achieving optimal spread of thermal paste. The reason the dot in the middle might not achieve the best spread is because unless you put the block on perfectly flat you will likely push the paste to one side or the other on the IHS. Our line method prevents this from occuring and thus results in a nearly perfect spread of thermal past each time you apply it.

This is mainly for Intel processors. AMD CPUs tend to do better with the small dot in the center.


----------



## M3TAl

Line is probably better for most Intel CPU's but for AMD I'd go bb.

Intel Haswell delid:


AMD Bulldozer delid:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Line is probably better for most Intel CPU's but for AMD I'd go bb.
> 
> Intel Haswell delid:
> 
> 
> AMD Bulldozer delid:


For AMD I would have to agree with you. AMD processors aren't under the same pressure that Intel's are when they're sitting in the socket and so therefore the small dot in the middle will usually work better. AMD's also tend to have a mounting system that all but ensures that the block will be installed flat to the surface. At least ours certainly does.


----------



## Dudewitbow

also have to note that AMD cpus are convex, and Intel cpus are concave upwards.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> I am curious about the general consensus in this thread about TIM usage with the h220/glacer among owners. What did you guys use? The line (as shown in the included instructions)? Or the bb sized (4-5mm) as is generally recommended for many other heatsinks?
> 
> Reason I ask is because I was planning on using the bb-sized TIM application when I build my system in a few weeks.
> 
> Thanks for any input on this matter, just trying to gauge application method and subsequent temperatures obtained with your CPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Line is probably better for most Intel CPU's but for AMD I'd go bb.
> 
> Intel Haswell delid:
> 
> 
> AMD Bulldozer delid:


Do you happen to know how it affects ocing headroom for Fx chips?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> also have to note that AMD cpus are convex, and Intel cpus are concave upwards.


I'd like to add that for X79 chips you have to do an X pattern and some extra bb dots for good measure. The IHS is GINORMOUS!


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Can anyone confirm if the H220 fits in a HAF 922 case? I am thinking of buying one while NCIX has it in stock for cheap.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the H220 fits in a HAF 922 case? I am thinking of buying one while NCIX has it in stock for cheap.


From what I've read it takes a little bit of modding to get the H220 to fit inside the case. This is due to the lack of room at the top for the radiator, fans, and integrated reservoir. Unfortunately we never received one of these cases to actually test fit our kit into it.


----------



## thebto

Well you two for the most part just sold me on the line method for Haswell, I had been looking for a nice de-lid picture like that for Haswell, to see the core's shape, and this pretty much confirms the line method would provide excellent coverage for said CPU. I recently put together an i5 haswell system, using a Noctua NH-D14, and used a 5mm application (I measured it just for kicks too) and have been getting anywhere from 17C to 23C idle temps. Max I've gotten with 25 runs of IntelBurnTest is 65C, while typical gaming has been around 49C. So now I'm curious to try the line method with my build using the glacer using the haswell chip.

Out of curiosity, what line thickness, and how far up/down to do it? The instructions from Swiftech make the line look like too thick and too far out.
How does this look?


Would this line and thickness cut it?


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> also have to note that AMD cpus are convex, and Intel cpus are concave upwards.


To add a graphic to what you said.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Do you happen to know how it affects ocing headroom for Fx chips?
> I'd like to add that for X79 chips you have to do an X pattern and some extra bb dots for good measure. The IHS is GINORMOUS!


If you noticed in the H220's instructions, that's a 2011 socket chip, so I'd imagine Brian's recommendation stands, use line method.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> To add a graphic to what you said.
> If you noticed in the H220's instructions, that's a 2011 socket chip, so I'd imagine Brian's recommendation stands, use line method.


The line method is going to be thicker for a socket 2011 than for a socket 1150.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> To add a graphic to what you said.
> If you noticed in the H220's instructions, that's a 2011 socket chip, so I'd imagine Brian's recommendation stands, use line method.


I have one and already tested both, my x works slightly better.









2011 die is HUMONGOUS, a man's chip like we say at the 3820 club lol


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I have one and already tested both, my x works slightly better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2011 die is HUMONGOUS, a man's chip like we say at the 3820 club lol


Sounds good, I shall write this down in my notes. Thanks.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From what I've read it takes a little bit of modding to get the H220 to fit inside the case. This is due to the lack of room at the top for the radiator, fans, and integrated reservoir. Unfortunately we never received one of these cases to actually test fit our kit into it.


I might have to wait or get the coolermaster unit for my next rig then. Modding the 922 is too much of a pain since the interior is cramped and I don't have a dremel.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Do you happen to know how it affects ocing headroom for Fx chips?


How delidding affects OC headroom for BD/PD? Probably hardly at all. The chips are soldered. The only reason that chip was delidded was because it was already dead. The guy just wanted to know if it was soldered or TIM.


----------



## ivanlabrie

What do you think of this guys: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/XSPC-RX-Series-120mm-Single-Radiator-RX120/213637_619951384.html ?

I'm guessing that + the stock 240 Glacer rad would be fine for single gpu and i7 3820 or 3930k at 5ghz...no need to get a res or a better pump, right?
Might do dual gpu eventually...


----------



## Lord Nikkon

For i7 3820 Dual rad is enough, but if You want to put GPU in the loop dual 240 is absolutely needed.

Pump is really strong. I have my i7 3820 on 4,5 Ghz with GTX 680 and 360 Rad is enough but barely. Standard 2011 CPU has 130w TDP so if you will OC it it will have at least 180W TDP.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> What do you think of this guys: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/XSPC-RX-Series-120mm-Single-Radiator-RX120/213637_619951384.html ?
> 
> I'm guessing that + the stock 240 Glacer rad would be fine for single gpu and i7 3820 or 3930k at 5ghz...no need to get a res or a better pump, right?
> Might do dual gpu eventually...


No need for extra pump even if you expand the loop. More rad area if you decide to expand to include GPU´s. A separate reservoir is not required but I have been wondering for a long time now if a separate reservoir will not help the h220 family to get rid of some of the bubbles/noise problems that users report. Something like the Swiftech microres.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No need for extra pump even if you expand the loop. More rad area if you decide to expand to include GPU´s. A separate reservoir is not required but I have been wondering for a long time now if a separate reservoir will not help the h220 family to get rid of some of the bubbles/noise problems that users report. Something like the Swiftech microres.


I need a separate reservoir to keep it above the cpu block/pump, since I want to mount the mcr220qp rad/res in the front of my case (rotated cm 690 II a la FT02)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I need a separate reservoir to keep it above the cpu block/pump, since I want to mount the mcr220qp rad/res in the front of my case (rotated cm 690 II a la FT02)


I think that would be a very good idea and will go a long way to keep the loop bubble free.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well I just turned my PC on after not running it a week. I can hear water running through it? The pump is dead silent. Just wondering if this is normal okay or what?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well I just turned my PC on after not running it a week. I can hear water running through it? The pump is dead silent. Just wondering if this is normal okay or what?


Happens to me every once in a while, been fine as the running sound disappears after a bit, sometimes immediately. I can't say what it is for sure but I know it's been covered here.


----------



## selk22

Well after a few weeks of expansion and running smoothly it seems I get a new clicky noise anywhere below 1800rpm on the pump.. Is this normal for people?

Right now in speedfan I don't have it running below 40% which is about 1920rpm.. Its not much louder than 1700rpm but the clicking noise is gone for now at least. I can upload a recording if you like.

It sounds like it could be air so I will try to remove the air from the loop probably tonight... It just seems odd for air to have built up so quickly after bleeding and refilling the loop. Its only been a week or two.

Please look to see if I have everything flow wise set up correctly..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









EDIT: I have the newest h220 revisions.


----------



## abbb

*sigh* I've just had my 4th H220 pump die on me. The first one had to be sent back because it started making noise like it does when air gets in the loop, but no matter what I did, I couldn't get it to stop.
The second one had abnormal vibrations, so I took a video of it, and Swiftech decided the pump was off-balance.
The third one was bad out of the box. It was running at 3750 RPM, and couldn't be controlled by PWM.
I then got my fourth one 1-2 weeks ago, and everything was fine with it until the pump stopped working earlier today.
This is getting rather ridiculous.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Happens to me every once in a while, been fine as the running sound disappears after a bit, sometimes immediately. I can't say what it is for sure but I know it's been covered here.


Alright i was just making sure.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> *sigh* I've just had my 4th H220 pump die on me. The first one had to be sent back because it started making noise like it does when air gets in the loop, but no matter what I did, I couldn't get it to stop.
> The second one had abnormal vibrations, so I took a video of it, and Swiftech decided the pump was off-balance.
> The third one was bad out of the box. It was running at 3750 RPM, and couldn't be controlled by PWM.
> I then got my fourth one 1-2 weeks ago, and everything was fine with it until the pump stopped working earlier today.
> This is getting rather ridiculous.


Please PM me so that I can help you figure out what's going on and replace this unit if necessary.


----------



## SirRobinII

Hey can someone compare the swiftech pump with the glacer and with the cm eisberg all with the same fans and radiator ?
Is the glacer a rebrand or an update ?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Glacer and H220/H320's pumps are very very similar. Eisenberg I saw week ago any I need to say - damm it's so loudly. Performance is quite similar but Switech pump is more quite. Some pumps has issue with air but Eisenberg is not better.


----------



## MlNDSTORM

I can't buy this item in the US right? or can I buy it elsewhere and have it shipped here? If not what would be a better alternative to the H220?


----------



## Mega Man

h220/h320 ncix.ca

glacer is newegg same thing same pump but with higher rpm

as stated before gabe designed this pump originally for 4500 rpm and i am assuming through the pcb limit it to 3000 for h220/h320 however it is now @ 3500 rpm with the CM unit


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Especially that no one use pump in such a speed. Ok Maybe for filling up the loop but later 30-40% is absolutely enough.


----------



## Mega Man

i do, but i have several blocks and 4 gpus in full parallel, and to boot i have 3x mcp-35x pumps, looking to expand to 4-5 me thinks


----------



## Haudi

Hi there. Ive got a H320 and atm only a 3770k cooled. Now i want to cool my 780ti too. Is it enough radiator or should i install 1 more (240er). My 3770k runs at 4.8 ghz and my Ti will run @ 1300 core @ 1.125V. What do you think?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Glacer and H220/H320's pumps are very very similar. Eisenberg I saw week ago any I need to say - damm it's so loudly. Performance is quite similar but Switech pump is more quite. Some pumps has issue with air but Eisenberg is not better.


Yeah, my Glacier 240L runs _extremely_ quietly, even quiet enough that my fans are far louder. Crap, my cat's purring is louder...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haudi*
> 
> Hi there. Ive got a H320 and atm only a 3770k cooled. Now i want to cool my 780ti too. Is it enough radiator or should i install 1 more (240er). My 3770k runs at 4.8 ghz and my Ti will run @ 1300 core @ 1.125V. What do you think?


You're at the limit right now (120.1 to start, 120.1 for each component), so I'd say add something new and see what you get!








There's no such thing as "too much" in this hobby!

Thanks - T


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haudi*
> 
> Hi there. Ive got a H320 and atm only a 3770k cooled. Now i want to cool my 780ti too. Is it enough radiator or should i install 1 more (240er). My 3770k runs at 4.8 ghz and my Ti will run @ 1300 core @ 1.125V. What do you think?


Bare minimum of 120mm rad space per component, but I'd say 240 for not too loud operation. 2x 360 would be my pick, or 480+240.


----------



## Haudi

I only need a radiator and the gpu cooler + tube. Can i use every radi in combination with the h320? And the tube is 16/10 or?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haudi*
> 
> I only need a radiator and the gpu cooler + tube. Can i use every radi in combination with the h320? And the tube is 16/10 or?


Standard tube for H220/320 is 10/16 (3/8" 5/8") but also you can use a 10/13-14 but You need to change a clamps on radiator and pump. I recommend bigger one because You will be able to make close turns. Also You need a compression fittings depend which tube will you use. The best one are Bitspower, and Swiftech's one


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Standard tube for H220/320 is 10/16 (3/8" 5/8") but also you can use a 10/13-14 but You need to change a clamps on radiator and pump. I recommend bigger one because You will be able to make close turns. Also You need a compression fittings depend which tube will you use. The best one are Bitspower, and Swiftech's one


Can you link the correct items from performance-pcs? For reference, I'll get those for X-mas but am a wc noob really, and that stuff can be confusing. Thanks!


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Can you link the correct items from performance-pcs? For reference, I'll get those for X-mas but am a wc noob really, and that stuff can be confusing. Thanks!


Standard 3/8 5/8 (like in swiftech)
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-102-XS&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=2583

Tube (highly recommended) color You can chose
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-102-PM&groupid=962&catid=1530&subcat=1548


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Standard 3/8 5/8 (like in swiftech)
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-102-XS&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=2583
> 
> Tube (highly recommended) color You can chose
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-102-PM&groupid=962&catid=1530&subcat=1548


Thanks a lot!


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Okay so I've finally gotten around to refilling my H220 again. Tried filling the pump up first by filling the barbs on each side. Still getting air bubbles.







Now when I was emptying the unit again more of that plasticizer stuff came out. Figured I'd clean out the tubes while I'm at it, took a cotton ball push it through the tubes. Good amount of green stuff came out. If all this was in the tubes I can't imagine how much is in the radiator and the pump. It'll be near impossible to get it all out of the rad, the pump would be easy since it can be disassembled.

Haven't disassembled that yet since Bram stated:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm just waiting for the engineers to get in so that I can confirm with them that this procedure won't void the warranty. I don't see anything in the video that would, but I just need to confirm that with them before making it official.
> 
> OK, here's the official word. If the customer that intends to do this contacts us first, and a technician such as myself is involved in overseeing and supervising the process, then this won't void your warranty.
> 
> If you decide to do this on your own and something goes wrong, our warranty for this pump will be void. This is because without supervision we'll have no way of knowing just how closely these procedures were followed and the amount of care involved with carrying them out.
> 
> Please PM me if you have any questions concerning this.


----------



## Gabrielzm

You can clean the rad using this method here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/

works great. Just remember to flush at the end your rad with distil before filling up with the coolant.

On a particular full of debris and gunk ek rad I use a more hard method of mixing a couple of drops of lemon with distil (warm) and leaving to act on the rad for 15 or 20 minutes. Then rinse it fully with Martin method and distil. Worked like a charm on that particular rad.

hope that helps.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can clean the rad using this method here:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> works great. Just remember to flush at the end your rad with distil before filling up with the coolant.
> 
> On a particular full of debris and gunk ek rad I use a more hard method of mixing a couple of drops of lemon with distil (warm) and leaving to act on the rad for 15 or 20 minutes. Then rinse it fully with Martin method and distil. Worked like a charm on that particular rad.
> 
> hope that helps.


Thank you, I'll do that.


----------



## winderic

Hi All, finally receceived and installed my H220. Having trouble to find a good spot for the PWM spilter so just going to leave it "hanging" like this for a while.
Was having problem during first installation as i was using the original screw and spring that come with the block, after trying several times then realise should use another bag of screw/spring for AMD. Just a suggestion, there are total of three different type of screws, would be good if Swiftech can put a tag on the screw bag to state which type CPU? Or maybe I am just too new to this to tell the differences.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Hi All, finally receceived and installed my H220. Having trouble to find a good spot for the PWM spilter so just going to leave it "hanging" like this for a while.
> Was having problem during first installation as i was using the original screw and spring that come with the block, after trying several times then realise should use another bag of screw/spring for AMD. Just a suggestion, there are total of three different type of screws, would be good if Swiftech can put a tag on the screw bag to state which type CPU? Or maybe I am just too new to this to tell the differences.


Usually the AMD screws and springs are already attached to the AMD mounting brackets. If they weren't then I agree that it would probably help to have them in a bag that's labeled. I'll mention it and see if we can get this addressed in the future.


----------



## winderic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Usually the AMD screws and springs are already attached to the AMD mounting brackets. If they weren't then I agree that it would probably help to have them in a bag that's labeled. I'll mention it and see if we can get this addressed in the future.


No, the AMD bracket come in a different bag with no screws with it. Yes, that would be good if Swiftech can label it as i can imagine it will help with user experience.
Overall i am very satisfied with H220, cool my stock CPU at idle @ 32-34C, OC to 3.8GHZ and only raise around 4-5C.








Maybe i should also WC my 6870 because now it make my GPU temp look bad, idle at 46C. Before H220, both CPU and GPU was about 45-50C at idle.

edited - i didnt screw the cpu block until it was tighten, because i can heard some squeezing noise when screw, kinda worry i over tighten it but CPU block is very firm.
during my first installation, some how i scratched the cpu block and now got couple of lines


----------



## rack04

Does the Glacer 240L come with a PWM splitter similar to the H220?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> Does the Glacer 240L come with a PWM splitter similar to the H220?


no, its one of the few changes


----------



## crabula

I've noticed a couple of short water gurgling noises with my H320 lately, is that a sign I might need to top it up? Air getting to the res? Should I do this ASAP or it will be okay for a while more?


----------



## cam51037

I'm pondering buying a H320. I'm wondering if you guys know, does it have pump issues like the H220 has?


----------



## Mega Man

the h220 has a very small pump failure rate, and it is the same pump in the h320, gabe has already said less then 3% failure rate


----------



## eXecuution

Saw that the H320 was available on NCIX US earlier today and jumped on it. Add me to the club! Can't wait to replace my H100!

Also how are the fans compared to, say, AP15s or Cougar Vortexes?


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> Saw that the H320 was available on NCIX US earlier today and jumped on it. Add me to the club! Can't wait to replace my H100!
> 
> Also how are the fans compared to, say, AP15s or Cougar Vortexes?


Performance wise close to AP-15's, but slightly louder, at least on both my samples.


----------



## eXecuution

Alright that's not bad at all. Now I already have a bunch of Cougar Vortex fans because of my H100... I wonder how those would compare to the swiftechs at lower RPMs...


----------



## Dudewitbow

after being in this thread a long time, buying a pre-delidded 3770K in the marketplace for 150$, an incoming swiftech 120mm rad and a heatkiller gpu block

I can officially be part of the club after a timely price drop to offset the tax I would get


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







now, i need to get some thermaltape, some Primochill ALRT Brilliant Blue UV tubing, some heatsinks, an optional reservoir(want to put a UV Primochill Zencoil in it)

modding plans aside, going to need to mod a fan onto my GPU and a special side project that i'm keeping under wraps(probably wont happen till long while).


----------



## Scorpion667

Is it harder to take bubbles out of the pump if I mount the H220 pump upside down? I'm expanding my loop and need the pump inlet to be close to the rad outlet.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Is it harder to take bubbles out of the pump if I mount the H220 pump upside down? I'm expanding my loop and need the pump inlet to be close to the rad outlet.


AFAIK, the orientation of the pump isn't an issue when mounting the H220. So you should be OK doing that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Is it harder to take bubbles out of the pump if I mount the H220 pump upside down? I'm expanding my loop and need the pump inlet to be close to the rad outlet.


If you're expanding your loop and you need the pump inlet to be close to the radiator outlet, just turn the pump around. The orientation of the pump makes no difference in terms of performance. As long as you have the reservoir fill-port cap facing up and you aren't disconnecting the line going from the radiator to the inlet of the pump, you should be fine.

If you do need to shorten the tubing between the pump inlet and the radiator for any reason, I highly suggest that you pour a little coolant into each port on either side of the pump before you reconnect your tubing. This will make priming your pump and bleeding the loop of air much easier.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're expanding your loop and you need the pump inlet to be close to the radiator outlet, just turn the pump around. The orientation of the pump makes no difference in terms of performance. As long as you have the reservoir fill-port cap facing up and you aren't disconnecting the line going from the radiator to the inlet of the pump, you should be fine.
> 
> If you do need to shorten the tubing between the pump inlet and the radiator for any reason, I highly suggest that you pour a little coolant into each port on either side of the pump before you reconnect your tubing. This will make priming your pump and bleeding the loop of air much easier.


Cool, thanks guys.

I'm adding a GPU block as well as:



Tried to stick with Swiftech as much as possible as I trust your products.
Any plans on releasing thicker rads (45mm+) in the near/distant future Bryan? If you can't talk about it I understand


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cool, thanks guys.
> 
> I'm adding a GPU block as well as:
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to stick with Swiftech as much as possible as I trust your products.
> Any plans on releasing thicker rads (45mm+) in the near/distant future Bryan? If you can't talk about it I understand


No, we don't have any plans that I'm aware of to release thicker radiators. Our own testing and Martin's of martinsliquidlab has shown that for the amount of money that they cost, it just isn't very cost effective. We try to provide our customers with the best performance to cost ratio with our products.


----------



## marc0053

Would adding another pump to a H220 loop help remove air bubbles?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, we don't have any plans that I'm aware of to release thicker radiators. Our own testing and Martin's of martinsliquidlab has shown that for the amount of money that they cost, it just isn't very cost effective. We try to provide our customers with the best performance to cost ratio with our products.


I was looking at rad pricing and Martin's tests and I have to +1 that...


----------



## MightyUnit

Is it okay to mount the rad of the H320 with the fill port down? Thank you


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Is it okay to mount the rad of the H320 with the fill port down? Thank you


its okay to have it facing down, you just have to check it more often since there is no mechanism when facing down for air bubble capturing after possible coolant evaporation


----------



## MightyUnit

Also I would like to ask about fans. I have three Noctua NF-F12's and I would like to know:

1.should I replace the swiftech fans with the NF-F12's? YES/No
2.should I add the Noctua fans and go Push Pull? YES/No


----------



## Dudewitbow

if you have the fans laying around, sure the fans are great, if you are going to buy them, its really up to you to decide cost to benefit. as for the second question, the H220/H320 are low fin per inch radiators, so it doesn't take much of a fan to work the radiator. setting up the radiator in push/pull config will only get subtle gains vs push only or pull only. cost to benefit wise, you'd probably see a better temperature adding a new single radiator to the loop vs adding 2 more NF-F12s


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Cool, thanks guys.
> 
> I'm adding a GPU block as well as:
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to stick with Swiftech as much as possible as I trust your products.
> Any plans on releasing thicker rads (45mm+) in the near/distant future Bryan? If you can't talk about it I understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, we don't have any plans that I'm aware of to release thicker radiators. Our own testing and Martin's of martinsliquidlab has shown that for the amount of money that they cost, it just isn't very cost effective. We try to provide our customers with the best performance to cost ratio with our products.
Click to expand...

ill +1 that, but you have to admit, they just look awesome/sexay. only thing i dont like about swiftech rads is the bass chambers and the thing i like about alphacool is the screw stops.

do i need it no.

but i do have a setup i will be going 100% swiftech... probably will be expanding my htpc ( not going for a small build, i like large cases ) with my h220! ( already have all parts swiftech 360 swiftech 220 + h220 )


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Also I would like to ask about fans. I have three Noctua NF-F12's and I would like to know:
> 
> 1.should I replace the swiftech fans with the NF-F12's? YES/No
> 2.should I add the Noctua fans and go Push Pull? YES/No


Personally, I just replaced the two included swiftech fans with 4x Noctua NF-F12s and I saw a relatively dramatic change in performance.

Whereas previously I would hit mid 70s in Prime95 in only 5-6 minutes, now with the four noctua fans running at full 'reduced' speed (using the 1200 RPM adapters), and the pump at 2K RPM, I maintained mid 60s even to 25-30 minutes of prime95 small FFTs. This is with a 6 core 3930K.

So while the performance may not be hugely different, I found that the noise performance of the NF-F12s is supremely better, and offers the advantage of being able to be ran at a lower top speed since the greater static pressure generated by the additional two fans overcomes any losses.

Just my 2cp


----------



## Phelan

I love Swiftech rads and concur that performance isn't really there on thicker rads to justify the price difference. They do look awesome, though. I only have 2 grevences with Swiftech rads- they need a blacker black IMO and an XP variant of the 140 rads, though admittedly 140 hasn't really taken off yet the way we'd expect it to. I've done 2 loops with all Swiftech, but this time I went with a crazy high fpi 280 rad (30 fpi Black Ice Stealth) and Akasa Viper fans for crazy performance, since I'm watercooling 3 hot cores (4770K and 7990) for extra brawn, not noise.


----------



## MightyUnit

Has anyone else noticed that their H320/H220 pump speed is not modulated correctly via PWM when using an ASUS mobo and AI Suite II? For me I am not able to set a "fan curve" for the pump based off of temp (in Smart Mode). The pump always runs at 100% even though my fan curve is saying it should only be running 53%. If I try to use RPM fixed mode and then set 1350RPM the pump reports 0 RPM then a climb to max RPM and then 0 again. It takes anywhere from 12-20 seconds to complete one of these cycles.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Has anyone else noticed that their H320/H220 pump speed is not modulated correctly via PWM when using an ASUS mobo and AI Suite II? For me I am not able to set a "fan curve" for the pump based off of temp (in Smart Mode). The pump always runs at 100% even though my fan curve is saying it should only be running 53%. If I try to use RPM fixed mode and then set 1350RPM the pump reports 0 RPM then a climb to max RPM and then 0 again. It takes anywhere from 12-20 seconds to complete one of these cycles.


What fan header are you using and what temperatures are you getting? This will let me know what your issue might be.


----------



## MightyUnit

I am using the Chassis 3 fan header. AI Suite II reports idle temps of ~32C. I would like my pump to slow down during idle.


----------



## Mega Man

ai suite is extremely buggy fyi


----------



## MightyUnit

I have used AI Suite for a long time and I personally have not found it buggy.


----------



## Dudewitbow

I only stopped using AI suite because it made some sites lag like no tomorrow(I think the traffic shaper or something)


----------



## 66racer

Only thing I think is wrong with AI suite is its very on/off even with a progressive scale. I still use it but for that reason its just for chassis fans. Keep them low for normal use then preset static percentage for gaming. The cpu temps reported in AI suite is just socket temp which is usually lower than actual core temperature from my experience on a few asus motherboards.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> I am using the Chassis 3 fan header. AI Suite II reports idle temps of ~32C. I would like my pump to slow down during idle.


If it's a chassis fan header that's probably your issue right there. It's likely not a PWM controlled header and therefore will only run the pump at full speed. I recommend not leaving it plugged into that header because these pumps weren't designed for voltage regulation. Please connect it to a true PWM header. These will likely only be your CPU_Fan header and your CPU_OPT header. Consult your motherboard manual though to make sure. Even though the chassis fan header might have 4 pins it's still likely only a voltage regulated header.


----------



## MightyUnit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I only stopped using AI suite because it made some sites lag like no tomorrow(I think the traffic shaper or something)


I only install a few of the AI Suite features: Turbo EVO, FanXpert II and a few other applications.


----------



## MightyUnit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If it's a chassis fan header that's probably your issue right there. It's likely not a PWM controlled header and therefore will only run the pump at full speed. I recommend not leaving it plugged into that header because these pumps weren't designed for voltage regulation. Please connect it to a true PWM header. These will likely only be your CPU_Fan header and your CPU_OPT header. Consult your motherboard manual though to make sure. Even though the chassis fan header might have 4 pins it's still likely only a voltage regulated header.


I will try that but as you can see I am using a PWM header and it _should_ work no differently than the fans do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> I will try that but as you can see I am using a PWM header and it _should_ work no differently than the fans do.


I looked that up too and Asus is very bad at actually specifying which headers are true PWM and which aren't. Try using the CPU_Fan header and see if that solves your issue. If it does then we'll know that it's not the pump but the header that's the issue.


----------



## MightyUnit

Ok I am now using the CPU_OPT fan header for the pump and it seems to be working correctly. I cannot control this header through AI Suite but it seems to be modulating the pump speed according to CPU temps anyway. At system idle the pump is running at ~1350 rpm and then speed up to its max as per my CPU fan curve. This is great! Thanks BramSLI1!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Ok I am now using the CPU_OPT fan header for the pump and it seems to be working correctly. I cannot control this header through AI Suite but it seems to be modulating the pump speed according to CPU temps anyway. At system idle the pump is running at ~1350 rpm and then speed up to its max as per my CPU fan curve. This is great! Thanks BramSLI1!


The header is indeed the issue, on all Asus boards (even deluxe and ROGs), the only PWM modulating headers are CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. It doesn't always state that in the manual but JJ @Asus confirmed this to be the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

On Asus boards only the CPU, CPU-OPT are PWM, there rest are voltage control. CPU and CPU_OPT are linked together, it was designed to control heatsinks with dual fans on it.
The Asus software is not very good to use, I would suggest using SpeedFan to get more better control from the PWM header.


----------



## MightyUnit

Thank you all for that info. IMHO it should be included in the ASUS mobo manual!


----------



## Unhooked

Question can the barbs be swapped for 1/2 id


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Question can the barbs be swapped for 1/2 id


Unfortunately they cannot.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unhooked*
> 
> Question can the barbs be swapped for 1/2 id


The barbs on both the radiator and the pump are fixed and therefore can't be changed out for other ones. That goes for Cooler Master's version as well.


----------



## Snyderman34

Here's an updated pic of my expanded H220:



The only problem I have with it, is it was a bit difficult to actually get everything hooked up. Those swivel fittings made it a bit difficult to connect the tubing to the H220 (ended up assembling outside the case then installing. Not fun with 2 rads and a video card hanging off of it). Works well, though. Temps:



Doesn't show it, but VRM temps were 46C and 37C (temps acquired by Fire Strike run). Thinking I will probably move away from the H220 and finish out a custom loop soon (add a 360 rad and whatnot), but for expanding this, I am quite pleased with how it works. Very quiet at full tilt after a flush and refill too.


----------



## passinos

Working fine for me on Z77-Pro on CPU PWM header for splitter (Pump+ 2 x stock fans).
I may break out fans to CPU_OPT for separate fan curves.


----------



## MightyUnit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> I may break out fans to CPU_OPT for separate fan curves.


You do not get a separate curve for the CPU_opt fan header


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If it's a chassis fan header that's probably your issue right there. It's likely not a PWM controlled header and therefore will only run the pump at full speed. I recommend not leaving it plugged into that header because these pumps weren't designed for voltage regulation. Please connect it to a true PWM header. These will likely only be your CPU_Fan header and your CPU_OPT header. Consult your motherboard manual though to make sure. Even though the chassis fan header might have 4 pins it's still likely only a voltage regulated header.
> 
> 
> 
> I will try that but as you can see I am using a PWM header and it _should_ work no differently than the fans do.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> I will try that but as you can see I am using a PWM header and it _should_ work no differently than the fans do.
> 
> 
> 
> I looked that up to and Asus is very bad at actually specifying which headers are true PWM and which aren't. Try using the CPU_Fan header and see if that solves your issue. If it does then we'll know that it's not the pump but the header that's the issue.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Ok I am now using the CPU_OPT fan header for the pump and it seems to be working correctly. I cannot control this header through AI Suite but it seems to be modulating the pump speed according to CPU temps anyway. At system idle the pump is running at ~1350 rpm and then speed up to its max as per my CPU fan curve. This is great! Thanks BramSLI1!





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> On Asus boards only the CPU, CPU-OPT are PWM, there rest are voltage control. CPU and CPU_OPT are linked together, it was designed to control heatsinks with dual fans on it.
> The Asus software is not very good to use, I would suggest using SpeedFan to get more better control from the PWM header.










on all points !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Working fine for me on Z77-Pro on CPU PWM header for splitter (Pump+ 2 x stock fans).
> I may break out fans to CPU_OPT for separate fan curves.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyUnit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> I may break out fans to CPU_OPT for separate fan curves.
> 
> 
> 
> You do not get a separate curve for the CPU_opt fan header
Click to expand...


----------



## M00NIE

Are the stock fans decent? I'm about to buy a H320 and debating getting 3 NF-F12's as well. The H320 should be overkill for my 2500k so i'm only concerned about the noise levels.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Are the stock fans decent? I'm about to buy a H320 and debating getting 3 NF-F12's as well. The H320 should be overkill for my 2500k so i'm only concerned about the noise levels.


When you get the H320, try out the fans and see how you like them.
They do have a much nicer sound profile over the NF-F12 at full speed.


----------



## M00NIE

yeah i guess its best to do that over saving a couple of £ on delivery


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I use the NF-P12 PWM on my H220 in Push/Pull. At 30% it is dead silent, which is the same as the Helix. Once full speed both will be able to be heard.
NF-P12 do slightly beat the Helix in temps, but not by much only 2c.


----------



## M00NIE

that's good info cheers, as long as i can get the stock fans down to inaudible levels i should be happy.


----------



## M00NIE

Just placed my order, cant wait to get it in my system http://i.imgur.com/HqTmyXk.jpg


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Working fine for me on Z77-Pro on CPU PWM header for splitter (Pump+ 2 x stock fans).
> I may break out fans to CPU_OPT for separate fan curves.


I solved this problem by using gentle typhoon ap-29pwm's, same rpm as the pump. I connect splitter to cpu header and fans to cha 1,2,3,4 on the splitter for control through AI suite and then connect the pump
to the cpu opt header. Since flow is less important, When I increase my fan speed the pump speed increases as well since the cpuopt is linked to cpu header. Its not silent but at the same time it's not too loud either. I prefer performance over noise (which will be needed more when I add my overvolted 780 to the loop).
for example when I'm idling my fans and pump are running at just under 1700 rpm, as temps increase(in gaming or benching) so will my rpm's. I find fan expert2 to be a usefull tool and havent had any issues with it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Just placed my order, cant wait to get it in my system http://i.imgur.com/HqTmyXk.jpg


Nice. I see you have a theme of Yellow and Black.
Why not look at the Akasa Viper 120mm and 140mm, Black and Yellow. They are PWM and low speed it is quiet at 600 rpm.


----------



## passinos

How can I control the fans independently from pump on same header?
or you mean it really isn't necessary to split them.


----------



## sdmf74

You can't. Since pump rpm is less important,Unless you have a complex loop, you get full control of your fans but can still increase flow.

edit: you could always run your fans off other headers


----------



## Martinm210

All this talk about replacing kit fans with NF-F12s or P12s makes me wonder.

I wasn't impressed with either one in controlled rad based noise vs air flow testing. Here was my second attempt with the F12, listen to the videos for yourself:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/

The NF-F12 was one of my worst in noise per CFM at higher speeds...not sure why and this was the second time I tried testing the F12. I just can't seem to get a good performance per noise ratio out of them. Perhaps my rad bench specifics, but they tested pretty loud at higher speeds on my test rig.


----------



## Phelan

+1 on the Akasa Vipers. They can be a little noisy at full speed, but move a TON of air, even at lower speeds. Their specs almost double the Helixes.


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice. I see you have a theme of Yellow and Black.
> Why not look at the Akasa Viper 120mm and 140mm, Black and Yellow. They are PWM and low speed it is quiet at 600 rpm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> +1 on the Akasa Vipers. They can be a little noisy at full speed, but move a TON of air, even at lower speeds. Their specs almost double the Helixes.


I planned to have the fans inbetween the case and the rad pulling air so i could use any fans without worrying about the colour scheme. I've just heard good things about the Noctua fans specifically that they have a great sound signature, meaning between 2 fans with the same dba they are normally easier on the ear. Since this cooler should be no problem for the heat my chip puts out i just want something that's super quite, i should be able to run at very low RPM and maintain ok temps. At the moment i'm using a h80 with one fan and its handling my OC no problems.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you can still see the fans on top of the case through the cutouts.
The NF-F12 sound is weird on the rads, which Martin have tested. Add a pull and the sound sounds even worse. That sound has to do with how the fan is designed.
This is the reason I went for the NF-P12 instead.


----------



## M00NIE

The vipers would look rather good, for now anyway I've got the h320 on the way. Will see how things plan out with the stock fans, then if need be look into it more.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Since this cooler should be no problem for the heat my chip puts out i just want something that's super quite, i should be able to run at very low RPM and maintain ok temps.


Wecells did some ear test with 3 different PWM fans according to noise levels.

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 1500rpm
Swiftech Helix 120 PWM 1700rpm
Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoon GT 1850 PWM 1850rpm

Lowering the higher rpm fans with Speedfan to 1500 as it´s the speed of lowest rpm fan Noctua at full speed.

The results are subjective (from 50cm distance), but still very clear.

1.The most quiet is Nidec Servo at 60% 1520rpm, it's almost inaudible and moves air well with that speed.

2.The middle noise is Swiftech Helix at 45% 1520rpm, it has a little more audible bearing noise than the Nidec Servo has, but it's clearly more silent than the Noctua fan.

3.The loudest is Noctua NF-F12 at 100% 1480rpm it's making real loud noise compared the other 2.

The Nidec Servo at full 100% 1854rpm is still more quiet than the Noctua fan is and moves a ton more air than the noctua moves.

So if youcells wan't a real silent fan, we suggest that you order some Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoon GT 1450 fans from Coolerguys.

http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

They should work quite well with youcells future H320 radiator.

There are also the Gentle Typhoon GT 1850 PWM fans available at Taobao China. Maybe also available at Coolerguys later on.

http://world.taobao.com/search/search.htm?_ksTS=1445014091072_35&spm=2015090701&search_type=0&_input_charset=utf-8&navigator=all&json=on&q=gentle%20typhoon%20pwm&cna=GN%20xDKaecWUCAVVMB6%2FPCW01&callback=__jsonp_cb&abtest=_AB-LR854-PV854_2100

Wecells got the GT 1850 PWM fans from China and we made a low noise adapter for them and it lowered their top RPM to ~ 1700rpm, which is really nice sound profile with still great airflow.

But if youcells don't have the money to order new fans from China, then wecells recommend to use the stock Helix fans, as they are not loud by any means.

Hope this helps?


----------



## Martinm210

It's too bad nobody in the states carries the slower speed AP-15s or AP-45s in a PWM flavor. Those would be the cat's meow for most users who want to retain basic PWM throttling of rad fans while also reducing noise levels over kit fans. Lack of PWM has been probably the biggest drawback to the GTs readily available, such a shame considering their noise and pressure performance.

Haven't tried it myself but supposedly the higher speed black blade AP-29s or AP-30s have PWM circuitry, you just have to solder on the fourth wire. Still no bargain, but that's an option for those wanting stateside GTs in PWM. While not quite as good at 1850 as the AP-15 (and more expensive), the AP-29 tested pretty darn close and provides a little more high speed headroom for those wanting that and willing to pay for it. You just have to solder the fourth PWM wire and 4pin header on which could be harvested from some kit donor fans..









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html

Been meaning to try that PWM mod with the AP-29s sometime but never got around to it.


----------



## Phelan

Hey Martin, have you had a chance to test the Cooler Master fans that come with the Glacer 240L or the Akasa Viper fans? The fin design on these are unique and, at least on paper, provide a lot of umph, though they can be noisy.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Hey Martin, have you had a chance to test the Cooler Master fans that come with the Glacer 240L or the Akasa Viper fans? The fin design on these are unique and, at least on paper, provide a lot of umph, though they can be noisy.


I tested some older CM fans which look similar to the glacier kit fans (maybe round 6 or 7) and I have tested the Akasa vipers as well in earlier rounds. Not certain they are the same or similar to current gen, but neither were substantially better than average fans like yate loons. I have yet to find a PWM slower speed fan that really sets itself apart from the pack on noise/flow ratio on those older tests. Those were all old models though, perhaps one of the latest gen fans have stepped things up. We can always hope..


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I tested some older CM fans which look similar to the glacier kit fans (maybe round 6 or 7) and I have tested the Akasa vipers as well in earlier rounds. Not certain they are the same or similar to current gen, but neither were substantially better than average fans like yate loons. I have yet to find a PWM slower speed fan that really sets itself apart from the pack on noise/flow ratio on those older tests. Those were all old models though, perhaps one of the latest gen fans have stepped things up. We can always hope..


I see. while I have you on the subject, what are your opinions on my current setup? I'm planning to cool a delidded 4770K and 7990 with a single rad (ITX build), so I opted for a Black Ice Stealh 280 (~30mm thick, 30 FPI) for size constraints, and Akasa Vipers in p/p. I don't care about the nopise at 100% fan speed because I just want performance, and plan on gaming with ANC headpones anyway. My 3 140mms are rated at 110 cfm, 3.15 mmH20, and the 120 in the PSU is rated at 90 cfm, 2.89mm H20, with the PSU top slotted for better ventilation from the 140 above it on the other side of the rad. I'm hoping I can use this same setup to cool a 290X2 and the 4770K if AMD releases one. BTW I'm also going to add more ventilation for the front-mounted PSU, but hidden.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh Boy...I for one never heard the GT's were made in PWM flavor. I known that some people modify the higher speed GT's to pwm but never heard of the AP14 and AP15 in PWM. Why frozencpu and others never carried such? Oh well..Have 10 AP15 in the boxes just waiting to build in the Enthoo Primo so not a choice anymore.


----------



## thebto

Oh damn, now I need to figure out how to order some of those 1850 PWMs.

BTW, for anybody that'd like to buy an H220. NCIX is going to have it on sale for $100 on cyber Monday.


----------



## Theroty

So, I have been using a Nh-d14 for quite some time now. I have been in the market for something different. The Noctua leaves me with no room to work in my case.

I was looking at h100i deals over the past few days hoping one would pop up on cyber Monday for cheap. I saw the deal for 99.99 for the h220. Will I be satisfied with this product? I like the idea of being able to expand if needed but it would probably be a long time before I could. Thoughts?







Thanks in advance!


----------



## Martinm210

I don't know too much about those chips regarding heat load but generally I would consider a 420 fine for CPU + GPU. It really comes down to heat though as I've seen huge differences between something like my old 2600k and the 3930k with the latter being much harder to keep water temps cool. overclock and utilization and fans also being all key. Ibwould think it will be ok for either running push/pull and the GTS favors stronger fannage which is all good. I would try it with the first and spend some time researching power consumption before you make the latter change. If you know the heat being generated and the resulting water/air delta, you can then make a pretty good estimate at how much temps will increase with more.


----------



## rack04

I still can't decide if I should get the H220 on sale or wait for the 240L to be in stock.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> I still can't decide if I should get the H220 on sale or wait for the 240L to be in stock.


I would choose the h220 based on service(dealing with bram alone speaks quality) but the glacer with its more powerful pump, fans and power connection system makes the scale balance out for me.

But at $100, that is a very good price


----------



## Phelan

Personally, being in the states, and talking with CM Jon aboit the Glacer 240L previously, I wouldn't hesitate on either, but would prefer the Glacer. The higher rpm pump namely has a fail-proof connection for power, like the Apogee Drive II. No need to worry about if you're fan header is modulating voltage or PWM, because worst case scenario is 100% pump speed if the header is voltage modulating, bevause the pump is directly powered with a SATA plug. Sure, the same thing can be done with H220 by using the splitter to power the pump, but as we've seen in this thread, too many people ignore this HIGHLY recommened setup procedure and thus often have issues running the pump off a voltage modulated fan header. With the Glacer, there isn't an option otherwise so it's dummy-proof. The other reason I'd prefer the Glacer os the high-performance fans, which are noisy at full romp, but statistically almost double the performance of the Helixes.


----------



## crabula

Would it be okay to add GPU to H320 with water going straight from CPU to GPU? Or would it be advisable to put in a 120/240 rad between them? CPU goes up to 60C or so in gaming and I don't need great temps on the GPU, just want it quiet.

Edit: Thanks Bram.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Would it be okay to add GPU to H320 with water going straight from CPU to GPU? Or would it be advisable to put in a 120/240 rad between them? CPU goes up to 60C or so in gaming and I don't need great temps on the GPU, just want it quiet.
> 
> Thanks


If you're asking about how to configure your loop, it doesn't matter what order your components are in. The H320 will be enough for both your CPU and GPU. Just have your GPU come after the CPU and run the tubing from your GPU back up to the radiator.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

@BramSLI1
I still haven't been able to get rid of these air bubbles. I'm debating whether I should just RMA or take the pump apart. I know a Swiftech technician such as yourself needs to oversee the dis assembly process so I don't void my warranty. I'm convinced that the plasticizer stuff is stuck in the pump causing the air bubbles.


----------



## Lettuceman

Could I cool CPU + GPU With the CM Glacer 240L?

For example, a i4670k and a R 290?

I'm trying to plan out my mITX build (using a NCASE M1), and was thinking about using the CM Glacer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> Could I cool CPU + GPU With the CM Glacer 240L?
> 
> For example, a i4670k and a R 290?
> 
> I'm trying to plan out my mITX build (using a NCASE M1), and was thinking about using the CM Glacer.


If you are ocing the cpu perhaps you should consider another rad as expansion. But yes, you can cool both components with the CM Glacer. Jusr remember that the R290 is a bit on the hot side of the GPUs. But since you are on the mITX build perhaps you will not have the option to expand the loop to more rads. In any case at stock settings it should be enough for the CPU +290.

hope that helps.


----------



## Magnum26

*HELP!* My pc is currently idling at 98 Degrees Celsius, I think it might be the block. Looking in the motherboard monitor section the CPU fan is showing as N/A, Hardware monitor in Windows and Speed Fan are showing as 98C idle with nothing else running. Could this be a pump issue? I've had a feel of my system and the block (slightly warm near the cpu), tubes and rad all feel cool.







P.S I'm in the UK. P.P.S System has been reset to stock settings makes no difference in temps.


----------



## Haudi

Yeah, thats a pump issue...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> I still haven't been able to get rid of these air bubbles. I'm debating whether I should just RMA or take the pump apart. I know a Swiftech technician such as yourself needs to oversee the dis assembly process so I don't void my warranty. I'm convinced that the plasticizer stuff is stuck in the pump causing the air bubbles.


PM me and I'll set up a time for you to reach me so that I can help you take the pump apart.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> Could I cool CPU + GPU With the CM Glacer 240L?
> 
> For example, a i4670k and a R 290?
> 
> I'm trying to plan out my mITX build (using a NCASE M1), and was thinking about using the CM Glacer.


You could do both on the included rad as long as your OC on the CPU isn't too extreme and you don't mind temps being in the low 80's. They may not get that high, but again they might. They will get higher than that on crazy stress tests but not in gaming. Gabe ran two 680s and a 3770K @4.5GHz all on the stock rad, at CES. His temps were around 81*C flr each.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you are ocing the cpu perhaps you should consider another rad as expansion. But yes, you can cool both components with the CM Glacer. Jusr remember that the R290 is a bit on the hot side of the GPUs. But since you are on the mITX build perhaps you will not have the option to expand the loop to more rads. In any case at stock settings it should be enough for the CPU +290.
> 
> hope that helps.


An Ncase M1 does not have room for a second rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> *HELP!* My pc is currently idling at 98 Degrees Celsius, I think it might be the block. Looking in the motherboard monitor section the CPU fan is showing as N/A, Hardware monitor in Windows and Speed Fan are showing as 98C idle with nothing else running. Could this be a pump issue? I've had a feel of my system and the block (slightly warm near the cpu), tubes and rad all feel cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S I'm in the UK. P.P.S System has been reset to stock settings makes no difference in temps.


Please PM me and I'll help you get this issue resolved. Be advised that you'll need to go through either your reseller or Bacata.net for warranty and RMA support though.


----------



## solar0987

Ok so I see there are a couple reps here







Question, i recently purchased a Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. If i have 4 fans on it it works great, but if i add one more fan or even all 8 they all run at 100% Is there something im missing? And ther fans im using are the corsair pwn 120 sp fans.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Ok so I see there are a couple reps here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question, i recently purchased a Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter. If i have 4 fans on it it works great, but if i add one more fan or even all 8 they all run at 100% Is there something im missing?


I've seen this before and I think I know what your issue might be. What fans are you running on it?

See my current posts on the OCN water cooling club and picture gallery.


----------



## Lettuceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> Could I cool CPU + GPU With the CM Glacer 240L?
> 
> For example, a i4670k and a R 290?
> 
> I'm trying to plan out my mITX build (using a NCASE M1), and was thinking about using the CM Glacer.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are ocing the cpu perhaps you should consider another rad as expansion. But yes, you can cool both components with the CM Glacer. Jusr remember that the R290 is a bit on the hot side of the GPUs. But since you are on the mITX build perhaps you will not have the option to expand the loop to more rads. In any case at stock settings it should be enough for the CPU +290.
> 
> hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Yea, I'm pretty much limited to a 240mm rad.

Glad to know that I can at least run stock settings. A lot of people with my case will be limited to a 240mm rad, so I'll see what overclocks they get.


----------



## Lettuceman

Posted here by mistake


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

My H220 started making this noise:






What should I do? RMA?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> It's too bad nobody in the states carries the slower speed AP-15s or AP-45s in a PWM flavor. Those would be the cat's meow for most users who want to retain basic PWM throttling of rad fans while also reducing noise levels over kit fans. Lack of PWM has been probably the biggest drawback to the GTs readily available, such a shame considering their noise and pressure performance.
> 
> Haven't tried it myself but supposedly the higher speed black blade AP-29s or AP-30s have PWM circuitry, you just have to solder on the fourth wire. Still no bargain, but that's an option for those wanting stateside GTs in PWM. While not quite as good at 1850 as the AP-15 (and more expensive), the AP-29 tested pretty darn close and provides a little more high speed headroom for those wanting that and willing to pay for it. You just have to solder the fourth PWM wire and 4pin header on which could be harvested from some kit donor fans..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12363/fan-809/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_3000_RPM_D1225C12B7AP-29.html
> 
> Been meaning to try that PWM mod with the AP-29s sometime but never got around to it.


Just thought you guys would like to know you dont have to worry about modding the better gt's get them from performance pc's instead they mod and braid them for ya for cheap. $25.95 Total, I have 4 ap29pwm's
and 2 ap30pwm's.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_407_696&products_id=36550


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> My H220 started making this noise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do? RMA?


That sounds like a fan to me. Can you check your fans to be sure that it's your pump that's making that noise? Let me know what you find.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just thought you guys would like to know you dont have to worry about modding the better gt's get them from performance pc's instead they mod and braid them for ya for cheap. $25.95 Total, I have 4 ap29pwm's
> and 2 ap30pwm's.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_407_696&products_id=36550


Are these PWM Gentle Typhoons one 4-pin wire? or are they split into two separate wires?

Thanks!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That sounds like a fan to me. Can you check your fans to be sure that it's your pump that's making that noise? Let me know what you find.


Agreed, that sounds like a fan has found something new to chew on... The Excalibur fan that holds my res liked to nibble on the screws that held the bracket to the fan untill I "tweaked" it a bit away from the blades...


----------



## TiM3SH1FT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That sounds like a fan to me. Can you check your fans to be sure that it's your pump that's making that noise? Let me know what you find.


It's definitely the pump. Here, I've made another video:






Note that I have never opened the loop, it's stock.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> It's definitively the pump. Here, I've made another video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I have never opened the loop, it's stock.


WOW,

Sounds like some Debris made it into the Impeller ...


----------



## zila

That's what my first one sounded like after two months. It was spittin' out some black chunks too.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> Are these PWM Gentle Typhoons one 4-pin wire? or are they split into two separate wires?
> 
> Thanks!


Not sure what you mean exactly but if you are referring to the pic where you can see multiple wires that's just cause I was just transferring my build from my c70 to my 750d
so nothing was connected yet and you are seeing multiple fan wires.
They are a standard 4pin pwm fan just like any other pwm fan you would buy (there is no molex or anything else)
here ya go


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiM3SH1FT*
> 
> It's definitely the pump. Here, I've made another video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I have never opened the loop, it's stock.


It does sound like either debris or air in the pump. These pumps can make some very disturbing noises even if it's just air in them. Please send me a PM and I'll assist you further with this issue.


----------



## dallas1990

Would the h220 pump be strong enough for 2 360 rads and 2 evga 780ti waterblocks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Would the h220 pump be strong enough for 2 360 rads and 2 evga 780ti waterblocks


Yes, it should be strong enough for that. The issue though will be with bleeding the air out of a loop of that configuration. You will likely have to rotate the case several times to get all of the air out of the loop once you fill it.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it should be strong enough for that. The issue though will be with bleeding the air out of a loop of that configuration. You will likely have to rotate the case several times to get all of the air out of the loop once you fill it.


I planned on bleeding/leak testing the loop outside of my case and if I can test it without it on my mobo so its just the loop and not mounted on anything I can bleed it super easy I guess


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I planned on bleeding/leak testing the loop outside of my case and if I can test it without it on my mobo so its just the loop and not mounted on anything I can bleed it super easy I guess


OK, that should work. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## dallas1990

Its an idea I don't have the parts yet. But if the pump struggles a little I'm getting a CPU block and separate pump


----------



## marc0053

Ive just received a koolance 380i cpu block and will install this over the week-end. I plan on having the h220 pump/ block mounted to the side of the case somehow just for the pump. I'll post results soon and i sure hope this fixes my cpu core temps being all over the place. Im also adding an extra mcp35x pump to the loop and hopefully this will help remove air bubbles and loop restrictions.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Not sure what you mean exactly but if you are referring to the pic where you can see multiple wires that's just cause I was just transferring my build from my c70 to my 750d
> so nothing was connected yet and you are seeing multiple fan wires.
> They are a standard 4pin pwm fan just like any other pwm fan you would buy (there is no molex or anything else)
> here ya go


That's exactly what I was wondering, thank you!


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hi all,
New here to the Forum, just sent for the Swiftech H320, to replace my old acetek evo 240 which has served me well for the last 2 years. I still have my Nehalem I7 950 running at 4ghz because it still gets the job done, use my Rig predominantly for Gaming







Currently get temps of around 58-62c whilst gaming so hoping for some improvement there, my first question for the forum is kinda case specific, I have the coolermaster HAF X with the top 2 big 200mm fans installed, does anyone know if I'll be able to keep those fans in place, seem to remember reading somewhere that you have to lose one of them with a 320 Rad, not an issue if that's the case, just saying hello and forward planning whilst I await delivery from Amazon, which could take a while cos I'm too tight to pay for delivery!!!! Thx for any advice you can give


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hi all,
> New here to the Forum, just sent for the Swiftech H320, to replace my old acetek evo 240 which has served me well for the last 2 years. I still have my Nehalem I7 950 running at 4ghz because it still gets the job done, use my Rig predominantly for Gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently get temps of around 58-62c whilst gaming so hoping for some improvement there, my first question for the forum is kinda case specific, I have the coolermaster HAF X with the top 2 big 200mm fans installed, does anyone know if I'll be able to keep those fans in place, seem to remember reading somewhere that you have to lose one of them with a 320 Rad, not an issue if that's the case, just saying hello and forward planning whilst I await delivery from Amazon, which could take a while cos I'm too tight to pay for delivery!!!! Thx for any advice you can give


With the reservoir being integrated into the radiator of this kit, and for the reservoir fill-port to face up, you'll likely have to mount the fans for the kit in between the case and the radiator. This will mean you won't be able to use either of the 200mm case fans. You could also just mount it directly under the top of the case using the included course fan screws. Again though, you won't be able to use either of the 200mm case fans.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Thx, for the reply, it's kinda what I was expecting, I do want the reservoir to the top so yeah those fans will be coming out, suspect that my old cooler is getting past it's sell by date as it doesn't cool as well as it used to, aluminium rad with copper block and fully sealed, not serviceable at all, that's what makes the Swiftechs so good IMO, the ability to maintain them with a coolent change or new parts if needed!


----------



## Scorpion667

H220 master race checking in.


----------



## eXecuution

I also have a HAF X, though I'd prefer not to lose the 200mm fans up top though when I install it. Why does the reservoir fill-port have to face up? If possible, I'd like to have the fans pushing air up through the radiator rather than pulling, like in my current H100.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> I also have a HAF X, though I'd prefer not to lose the 200mm fans up top though when I install it. Why does the reservoir fill-port have to face up? If possible, I'd like to have the fans pushing air up through the radiator rather than pulling, like in my current H100.


The reason the fill-port cap has to face up is so that the integrated reservoir can act as an air trap. Once evaporation starts to set in after a few months, air can get caught in the pump if it doesn't have anywhere to collect. This can cause the pump to become noisy and this will mean you'll have to bleed the air out of it and top it off before you can reuse it.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> I also have a HAF X, though I'd prefer not to lose the 200mm fans up top though when I install it. Why does the reservoir fill-port have to face up? If possible, I'd like to have the fans pushing air up through the radiator rather than pulling, like in my current H100.


gut some old 120mm fans and use them between case and rad, kinda like you would with a push/pull config. This way u can keep your 200mm fans AND have the fillport facing up. I will be doing the same thing once I expand my loop next week.


----------



## eXecuution

Or, even better, I could just buy 2 more Cougar vortexes to add onto the 4 I have on my H100 now and have a full push/pull setup going







From what I've seen, the cougars seem to be about as good as the Helixes.

Thanks for the explanation, bram!


----------



## jumpman

There's so many different models in CM's lineup, it's hard to differentiate it. How is the performance of the Glacer 240L vs the Nepton 280L?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> There's so many different models in CM's lineup, it's hard to differentiate it. How is the performance of the Glacer 240L vs the Nepton 280L?


Looks like your run of the mill AIO made by the same dudes everyone works with (except Swiftech naturally







)
I'd go Glacer 240L or H320 personally.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## SouthernStyle

Haven't seen it posted yet but the Glacer 240L is back in stock at NewEgg, just ordered mine finally.


----------



## M00NIE

I've just got mine installed, and anything below 1800rpm 35% power i hear a very loud ticking. Does the orientation of the pump/block matter. I Installed it sideways since it was gonna block one of my ram slots. I thought when using the included splitter i can lower power as much as i want since the splitter always provides whatever the pump needs. It confusing me that changing the power is making the pump sound differently?

Looking awesome tho:


----------



## Phelan

Great looking rig! Did you plug the pump into the splitter? The ticking at low rpms to me sounds like possible voltage modulation, which is not compatible with the H220 and can ruin the pump.


----------



## rack04

I was just watching the HitTech Legion YouTube video of the Glacer 240L and he states that it comes with the 8-way PWM splitter. Can anyone confirm this is true? I thought this is one of the items missing in the Cooler Master product. Thanks.


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Great looking rig! Did you plug the pump into the splitter? The ticking at low rpms to me sounds like possible voltage modulation, which is not compatible with the H220 and can ruin the pump.


Yes i have the pump plugged into the header labeled cpu fan on the splitter. Might be worth noting i have the pump, 3 stock fans on the rad, as well as 3 be quite 140mm case fans all into the splitter.

I was adjusting the power using the MSI control center which gives me custom fan curves.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> I was just watching the HitTech Legion YouTube video of the Glacer 240L and he states that it comes with the 8-way PWM splitter. Can anyone confirm this is true? I thought this is one of the items missing in the Cooler Master product. Thanks.


The review is INCORRECT, that item is NOT included.

It _is_ very useful, though!









Thanks - T


----------



## rack04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> The review is INCORRECT, that item is NOT included.
> 
> It _is_ very useful, though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


That's what I thought but hoped not true. I guess I'll have to find it somewhere else.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> That's what I thought but hoped not true. I guess I'll have to find it somewhere else.


All over, my man!

I don't want to say I can't remember because I can't, but I got mine at either FCPU or PPCS.
I order so much from both that I have no clue who to contact about returns / RMAs any given day...

It will really work well, and even with the issue they are saying will pop up with that 5th Corsair fan, I've got 4 SP120-HP's on mine and it's purring away, no issues at all!

Thanks - T


----------



## rack04

Good to know. I was planning on using 4 SP120 PWM HP fans if they will fit in my case (Fractal Arc Midi).


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Yes i have the pump plugged into the header labeled cpu fan on the splitter. Might be worth noting i have the pump, 3 stock fans on the rad, as well as 3 be quite 140mm case fans all into the splitter.
> 
> I was adjusting the power using the MSI control center which gives me custom fan curves.


I see. That is odd then.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> All over, my man!
> 
> I don't want to say I can't remember because I can't, but I got mine at either FCPU or PPCS.
> I order so much from both that I have no clue who to contact about returns / RMAs any given day...
> 
> It will really work well, and even with the issue they are saying will pop up with that 5th Corsair fan, I've got 4 SP120-HP's on mine and it's purring away, no issues at all!
> 
> Thanks - T


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> Good to know. I was planning on using 4 SP120 PWM HP fans if they will fit in my case (Fractal Arc Midi).


I've worked with our engineer here to determine the source of the issues with using Corsair fans with our splitter. It turns out that it's due to the way the IC has been designed in Corsair's fans. Their fans require a much stronger pulse current to adjust speed that's set by the motherboard. Due to this, if you use more than 4 of their fans on the splitter they can't read the pulse current and thus run at full speed.

Our fans were designed to run with a much weaker pulse current so that you're able to run 8 of them off of the same motherboard header. This apparently wasn't part of Corsair's design for their fans. The issue therefore isn't our splitter. It's the fans that you intend to use with it. We assumed that other PWM fan manufacturers would follow the same specifications so that up to 8 of their fans would run off of a single header. This obviously isn't the case.

We would actually have to put a signal booster on the PCB to make it compatible with other brands of PWM fans. This wasn't part of our design and so far it isn't something we're planning on doing. I hope this helps to clear up this issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> I've just got mine installed, and anything below 1800rpm 35% power i hear a very loud ticking. Does the orientation of the pump/block matter. I Installed it sideways since it was gonna block one of my ram slots. I thought when using the included splitter i can lower power as much as i want since the splitter always provides whatever the pump needs. It confusing me that changing the power is making the pump sound differently?
> 
> Looking awesome tho:


Have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Air in the pump can make some very unusual noises. The orientation of the pump shouldn't matter either.


----------



## M00NIE

I tried shaking a little but not as throughly as mentioned in the op, will get to that now.


----------



## sdmf74

@THRASHER1016 Knife guru, Have you heard of "benchmade" knives? You prolly have but if not check em out


----------



## Heimsgard

Got my H220 today took me awhile to install it. I have a couple problems with it like one of the fans makes a loud clicking noise as soon as I unplug it stops making the noise other fan works. Next in speedfan if I turn the pump down below 50% makes an odd noise might be a air bubble not too sure going to try the suggestions in the OP.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Got my H220 today took me awhile to install it. I have a couple problems with it like one of the fans makes a loud clicking noise as soon as I unplug it stops making the noise other fan works. Next in speedfan if I turn the pump down below 50% makes an odd noise might be a air bubble not too sure going to try the suggestions in the OP.


Let me know if that helps. I saw your PM and I'll answer you directly in a few moments.


----------



## M00NIE

Lots of shaking, still the same. below 35% loud ticking. I might just cheat my way out and use this other splitter i have for my fans and leave the pump on 35%.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Well, day has come that my pump started making a really loud noise.
It's a glacer 240l, might have to do with the way I mounted the thing initially....Tried opening the fill port and running the pump full bore after tipping the rad and case back and forth and sideways for an hour to no avail.
Noise didn't disappear yet, tried pressing the tube near the pump's fittings and it did help slightly but noise was still rather loud. I don't my pump to die and I got no way to rma or send it to CM support in the US (I'm in Argentina).
Do you think I have to disassemble the whole thing like Lord Nikkon suggested? (sorry if I mispelled your nick bro)
I'm considering buying a reservoir asap but would need some pointers with installing it and the required extra parts I have to get to make it work with my loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Well, day has come that my pump started making a really loud noise.
> It's a glacer 240l, might have to do with the way I mounted the thing initially....Tried opening the fill port and running the pump full bore after tipping the rad and case back and forth and sideways for an hour to no avail.
> Noise didn't disappear yet, tried pressing the tube near the pump's fittings and it did help slightly but noise was still rather loud. I don't my pump to die and I got no way to rma or send it to CM support in the US (I'm in Argentina).
> Do you think I have to disassemble the whole thing like Lord Nikkon suggested? (sorry if I mispelled your nick bro)
> I'm considering buying a reservoir asap but would need some pointers with installing it and the required extra parts I have to get to make it work with my loop.


PM me and I'll see what I can do to assist you.


----------



## Heimsgard

Thanks for the help Bryan! They are sending out a fan Monday to replace my broke one and he gave me some information on why my pump is loud under 50%. Love Swiftech's customer service.


Picture is dark but good enough =P


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Thanks for the help Bryan! They are sending out a fan Monday to replace my broke one and he gave me some information on why my pump is loud under 50%. Love Swiftech's customer service.
> 
> 
> Picture is dark but good enough =P


These new impellers do produce a bit of noise at the lower RPM levels. It's a result of how the new design allows for air to purged from the pump more efficiently. With all pumps though of this type, some produce a different noise than others.


----------



## Heimsgard

On speedfan I have the pump set to 52% it's pretty quiet I can barely hear it I have to really listen. Any lower than that though and it gets really loud.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> On speedfan I have the pump set to 52% it's pretty quiet I can barely hear it I have to really listen. Any lower than that though and it gets really loud.


In the video that you sent me there weren't any fans running. When you have the fans running is it considerably louder than your fans?


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In the video that you sent me there weren't any fans running. When you have the fans running is it considerably louder than your fans?


I had no fans running and the pump is louder than my fans at 100% even slowed down to as low as I can before it makes the clicking noise it's louder than my fans. Of course I keep all my fans on a fan controller and keep them down low trying to keep a silent build now the pump is the loudest part but it isn't too loud it's noticeable though.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like you using voltage rather then pwm?


----------



## Heimsgard

I think I was using the wrong settings on my motherboard never really messed around in the BIOS switched from full one to automatic mode then switched it to run at level 3 settings the pump is alittle quieter but still noticeable.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you using voltage rather then pwm?


That can cause that grinding noise too?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In the video that you sent me there weren't any fans running. When you have the fans running is it considerably louder than your fans?
> 
> 
> 
> I had no fans running and the pump is louder than my fans at 100% _*even slowed down to as low as I can before it makes the clicking noise*_ it's louder than my fans. Of course I keep all my fans on a fan controller and keep them down low trying to keep a silent build now the pump is the loudest part but it isn't too loud it's noticeable though.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you using voltage rather then pwm?
> 
> 
> 
> That can cause that grinding noise too?
Click to expand...

possibly i dunno but i do know that it will kill the pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> I think I was using the wrong settings on my motherboard never really messed around in the BIOS switched from full one to automatic mode then switched it to run at level 3 settings the pump is alittle quieter but still noticeable.


You're using the splitter though right? If you are then even if you were using a voltage regulated header the pump would just run at full speed anyway. If you have it plugged directly into a header though make sure it's either the CPU_FAN header or the OPT_FAN header. Those are the only two that are pretty much guaranteed to be true PWM headers.


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're using the splitter though right? If you are then even if you were using a voltage regulated header the pump would just run at full speed anyway. If you have it plugged directly into a header though make sure it's either the CPU_FAN header or the OPT_FAN header. Those are the only two that are pretty much guaranteed to be true PWM headers.


Yes I'm using the splitter and had it plugged into CPU_fan header 1.Tried directly too its been making a buzzing noise no matter what now. Do you think the pump could have got messed up in shipping the truck it was in must have been really cold the tubing and the pump was kind of icey. Just a thought no idea how well they handle the cold.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Yes I'm using the splitter and had it plugged into CPU_fan header 1.Tried directly too its been making a buzzing noise no matter what now. Do you think the pump could have got messed up in shipping the truck it was in must have been really cold the tubing and the pump was kind of icey. Just a thought no idea how well they handle the xols.


That is possible. We've seen that maybe one other time. We're going to start recommending that if the kit is shipped in the cold that the customer doesn't install it for about 24 hours so that it can warm up prior to using it. We're not open on the weekend, but we can start the RMA process on Monday to get you a replacement kit.


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is possible. We've seen that maybe one other time. We're going to start recommending that if the kit is shipped in the cold that the customer doesn't install it for about 24 hours so that it can warm up prior to using it. We're not open on the weekend, but we can start the RMA process on Monday to get you a replacement kit.


It has been getting in the low 20s lately at night I know that isn't that cold compared to some other places but still enough for everything to get covered in ice lol. So email you on Monday? And thanks for the help.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> It has been getting in the low 20s lately at night I know that isn't that cold compared to some other places but still enough for everything to get covered in ice lol. So email you on Monday? And thanks for the help.


Yes, email me on Monday and I'll help you get the kit replaced.


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, email me on Monday and I'll help you get the kit replaced.


Alright thanks for the help hope you have a nice weekend.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Alright thanks for the help hope you have a nice weekend.


You too. I'm sorry that I'm not able to do anything sooner than Monday for you.


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You too. I'm sorry that I'm not able to do anything sooner than Monday for you.


It's alright I am just glad I got a response so soon =P Most companies you have to wait acouple days.


----------



## rack04

Are the stock fans (blade master) on the glacer 240l any good? I've got a couple Cougar CF-V12HPB fans. Will these be better than the blade masters?


----------



## ivanlabrie

blade masters are more than enough... at low speed they are good too.


----------



## rack04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> blade masters are more than enough... at low speed they are good too.


Thanks. One more question. Does the Glacer 240L come with all the hardware to do push/pull or do I need to buy additional hardware?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rack04*
> 
> Thanks. One more question. Does the Glacer 240L come with all the hardware to do push/pull or do I need to buy additional hardware?


I think it has enough screws but the problem is the integrated reservoir. It's gonna interfere with a lot of cases out there, or motherboard i/o ports. Double check with someone who owns your case.


----------



## rack04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I think it has enough screws but the problem is the integrated reservoir. It's gonna interfere with a lot of cases out there, or motherboard i/o ports. Double check with someone who owns your case.


I have a fractal arc midi (not the R2) so I am limited to the top mount. I have seen some pictures with it installed but none with push/pull. In order to have the full port up I would be limited to a pull configuration.


----------



## SolidStateDave

I have been using the H320 since early September to cool an overclocked 4770k. I recently acquired two R9 290s that I would like to add to the loop. I know the pump in the H320 is sufficient for two GPU blocks and one CPU block, but is the radiator in the H320 up to the task of keeping two 290s and an overclocked 4770k cool?

I have the Corsair 800D case which has lots of room for extra parts. Would I need to maybe add another 120mm radiator to the loop?

Also, I was wondering if it would be beneficial to add a reservoir to the loop to help trap air?

The overclock on my 4770k is at 4.4 GHz. The chip idles at about 32 degrees right now and when stress testing, it can hit mid-60s.

The water blocks I am considering are the Nickel/acetal types from EK. Are these compatible with the H320 without worry of corrosion if I use the same coolant type that came with the H320?

If you need more information to help you answer these questions, please let me know.

Thanks for taking the time to read this post.


----------



## Mega Man

general rule of thumb is 1 120mm +1x each component ( CPU/GPU ) {vrm blocks and such you can generally ignore}

personally with as warm as 290s run i would recommend 3 more but 2 more should do


----------



## SolidStateDave

So, if I am calculating correctly, 1 120mm + 1 per block, I would need 1 + 1(CPU) + 2 (2 GPUs) for a total of 4x120mm to cool the two GPUs and CPU? If this is correct, I would need 1 more 120mm since I have a H320 which is 120mm x 3, right?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidStateDave*
> 
> So, if I am calculating correctly, 1 120mm + 1 per block, I would need 1 + 1(CPU) + 2 (2 GPUs) for a total of 4x120mm to cool the two GPUs and CPU? If this is correct, I would need 1 more 120mm since I have a H320 which is 120mm x 3, right?


I would get a 240/280 add on Rad. Price is not that much more.
Give you more room to OC the CPU and GPU


----------



## jibatron

So i finally recived my H320 to go into my coolermaster haf-x case and ASUS CROSSHAIR V FORMULA-Z mobo. So it fits fine in the haf-x but the mobo....... another story. I had to grind the bracket a bit and when i removed the pump from packaging the was coolant "crustys" on the bottom of it. It also sounds like someone is peeing on full speed, you can hear water realy moving around in there (maybe it needs topping up?) Either way im not hear to complain or talk smack about the cooler. It works quite well and i was pleasantly surprised with the helix fans. i prefer the type of noise they make over my higher pitched motor type noise of the nf-f12's i have. cheers everyone and hopefully this helps any other asus amd users


----------



## ivanlabrie

Fun times, pump seems to be defective, but we'll sort it out soon...meanwhile I'm running with no power to the pump, at 1.2ghz and less than 1v on a single core (i7 3820, idling at 54c max temp so far 67c lol).
I'll try to keep it like this so I can gpu mine and make some $ for a swiftech micro res, clear tubing and an R9 290.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidStateDave*
> 
> So, if I am calculating correctly, 1 120mm + 1 per block, I would need 1 + 1(CPU) + 2 (2 GPUs) for a total of 4x120mm to cool the two GPUs and CPU? If this is correct, I would need 1 more 120mm since I have a H320 which is 120mm x 3, right?


yes you could. but as i said i would add a min of 2x preferably 3x the 290s make alot of heats !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> So i finally recived my H320 to go into my coolermaster haf-x case and ASUS CROSSHAIR V FORMULA-Z mobo. So it fits fine in the haf-x but the mobo....... another story. I had to grind the bracket a bit and when i removed the pump from packaging the was coolant "crustys" on the bottom of it. It also sounds like someone is peeing on full speed, you can hear water realy moving around in there (maybe it needs topping up?) Either way im not hear to complain or talk smack about the cooler. It works quite well and i was pleasantly surprised with the helix fans. i prefer the type of noise they make over my higher pitched motor type noise of the nf-f12's i have. cheers everyone and hopefully this helps any other asus amd users
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i mounted mine witout mods and temps are fine on both VRM and cpu !


----------



## jibatron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes you could. but as i said i would add a min of 2x preferably 3x the 290s make alot of heats !
> i mounted mine witout mods and temps are fine on both VRM and cpu !


HI there. I have a FX-9590, so yes its at HIGH voltage (1.52) does it seem right that the cooler cant keep it anywhere cool when prime 95 smallfft is run? temp goes up to 60 celcius before i shut it down. Room temp is cool, 17c. Tuniq tx-4 thermal paste used, about a BB pelit sized pea was applied


----------



## Scorpion667

Made a video about why I hate my h220


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Made a video about why I hate my h220






Dat h220 life..

Feel you bro


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Made a video about why I hate my h220


$50 you say....









I can hear where you're coming from though


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm gonna rebuild my loop with crystal clear tubing and a dedicated res...gonna do a refill soonish.
Need to save for a 290X lightning or a 290 and wb.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Made a video about why I hate my h220


fyi when you squeeze the tubing you need to hold it for a bit longer however... yea mine is still running perfect


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Made a video about why I hate my h220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fyi when you squeeze the tubing you need to hold it for a bit longer however... yea mine is still running perfect
Click to expand...

I'll try that later

I can only hear it over 50% so I cap my fan curve there. It's not THAT bad but when I expand the loop it may be a problem . I'll find out once my new rad ships.


----------



## SolidStateDave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes you could. but as i said i would add a min of 2x preferably 3x the 290s make alot of heats !


I have ordered a Slim High Density Dual 120mm Radiator XSPC EX240 and two EK Nickel waterblocks for 290s. I found somebody who recently modded their 800D case to use this same radiator in the bottom, so I know it will fit (http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?909-Classic-Obsidian-800D-by-Nozcof).

In total I will have 3x120 and 2x120, hopefully this will keep everything nice and cool!

My questions now are:

Should I go push/pull on my H320, or leave it with the 3 stock fans?

How much HydrX PM 2 Coolant should I order?

Do I need a reservoir?


----------



## criznit

I just ordered the H320 from ncix and I'm excited lol. I was gonna do a full custom loop using the RayStorm Copper Twin D5 AX360 kit, but I'm too nervous for whatever reason to do a custom kit at this time. I want to test the waters out before going overboard


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I'll try that later
> 
> I can only hear it over 50% so I cap my fan curve there. It's not THAT bad but when I expand the loop it may be a problem . I'll find out once my new rad ships.


I've been paying attention to your posts. If the problem you're having with the air bubble in your pump persists after you expand the loop, I should be able to help you obtain either a replacement impeller or a replacement pump/ water block unit. Let me know what you find after you expand the kit.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I'll try that later
> 
> I can only hear it over 50% so I cap my fan curve there. It's not THAT bad but when I expand the loop it may be a problem . I'll find out once my new rad ships.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been paying attention to your posts. If the problem you're having with the air bubble in your pump persists after you expand the loop, I should be able to help you obtain either a replacement impeller or a replacement pump/ water block unit. Let me know what you find after you expand the kit.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bryan. I should be able to fix it once I tear everything down. I'm not really worried about it. The pump has never stopped working so it's all good. The unit performs great regardless. I don't really have a need to run over 50% PWM I'm just being way too OCD about it lol.
Mostly was just frustrated and that's why I made that video. I'm gonna take it down shortly.

I had a great experience dealing with Swiftech before so I didn't mean to knock you guys. Kinda feel like a douche now lol. Sorry Bryan.

On the bright side I must say the mounting system you guys use is by far the best I've ever worked with in 7 years of building. I'm OCD with my mounts and I can honestly say 99% of my mounts are within 1 degree of each other.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Thanks Bryan. I should be able to fix it once I tear everything down. I'm not really worried about it. The pump has never stopped working so it's all good. The unit performs great regardless. I don't really have a need to run over 50% PWM I'm just being way too OCD about it lol.
> Mostly was just frustrated and that's why I made that video. I'm gonna take it down shortly.
> 
> I had a great experience dealing with Swiftech before so I didn't mean to knock you guys. Kinda feel like a douche now lol. Sorry Bryan.
> 
> On the bright side I must say the mounting system you guys use is by far the best I've ever worked with in 7 years of building. I'm OCD with my mounts and I can honestly say 99% of my mounts are within 1 degree of each other.


No problem. I'm an enthusiast too, so I know where you're coming from. Just let me know if you need any further assistance once you expand the kit.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Has anyone noticed high increases in cpu temps from placing 1 vs 2 vs 4 sticks of ram in the RIVE?
> 
> I have a fully watercooled RIVE and my cpu temps increases by almost 13C from 1 stick of ram to 2 or 4 sticks.
> if I place just 1 stick I get a max of 77C ish while placing a second in any of the remaining slots increases temps to 90C ish
> 
> I do have bent and missing pins on the cpu but not sure if this could cause an issue like this?
> 
> 1 stick
> 
> 4sticks


I just replaced my H220 cpu block with a Koolance 380i (mounted horizontally, 90degrees) and added a mcp35x pump to my loop. Temps have lowered about 12-13C across the cores. The h220 block/pump are simply tie-wrapped behing my hdd cage so that I can utilized the pump. I've added a few quick connects to the loop as well. If I remove 3 of my 4 sticks of ram, temps are further reduced by another 10C ish.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> So i finally recived my H320 to go into my coolermaster haf-x case and ASUS CROSSHAIR V FORMULA-Z mobo. So it fits fine in the haf-x but the mobo....... another story. I had to grind the bracket a bit and when i removed the pump from packaging the was coolant "crustys" on the bottom of it. It also sounds like someone is peeing on full speed, you can hear water realy moving around in there (maybe it needs topping up?) Either way im not hear to complain or talk smack about the cooler. It works quite well and i was pleasantly surprised with the helix fans. i prefer the type of noise they make over my higher pitched motor type noise of the nf-f12's i have. cheers everyone and hopefully this helps any other asus amd users


Seems like Swiftech did not think about this when they was making the fittings, as this is not the first motherboard that it will not fit in or is a supper tight fit. I am ordering my Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z today and I just hope I need to do nothing with it as all I want to do is fit the cooler and go


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Hi
> Has any one posted on here yet about running the Swiftech H220 on the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z as I shall be ordering my mobo today and wanted to know if there was problems or it would not fit thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. will show my rig off when I have got the new mobo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 options 1 mod it, ( grind/cut a corner of the mounting bracket ) 2 make it work some have reported poor temps with this way , i did it without modding and i had no issues with temps !


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


I guess I will just have to bite the bullet and go for it as I really want the motherboard and FX 8350 fingers crossed it goes well


----------



## Theroty

My H220 will be here Wednesday. I am excited to get it installed and replace this NH-d14. The Noctua works great but leaves me with no room in my case.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hi,
Posted on here just a few days ago, having ordered my Swiftech H320 to replace my Coolit Eco A.L.C 240, this is just a follow up for anyone interested!
I ordered my H320 from Amazon.co.uk and it was swiftly despatched from Toulouse in France, it cost around £123 delivered in 4 days so very impressed, also the box is pristine, very well packaged and not a mark on it!
I have an I7 950 O/Clocked to 4GHZ and was getting temps of around 63c whilst gaming, my setup is housed in a HAF-X full tower case.
I stripped out my old cooler and cleaned the cpu of old TIM (arctic silver) and proceeded with the install. Having removed the old backplate from my Asus P6X58D-E m/board I came across my first difficulty.
My m/board has what Asus call Stack 3 fanless design and the backplate on the cpu area is quite large, I found that the Swiftech backplate would not go through the 4 holes in the m/board because of this Asus design, I was still able to fit the cooler but it required a 2nd person to hold the backplate to the m/board whilst I lined up the cooler on the other side and got the 4 screws started. No big Drama but I think this would have been a real struggle on my own, maybe impossible!
The 360 Rad is in the top of my case with the fans connected to the underside of the 2 mounts in the top of the case, the reservoir is facing upwards and I can access it easily from the top by simply removing the top section of my case.
I removed the 2 large 200mm fans that I had in the top of my HAF-X however I could have kept them if desired, just figured that 2 lots of fans on top of each other was overkill really, however that's how I had my 240mm ECO A.L.C installed and it worked very well.
I have used the Swiftech TIM that came supplied with the H320, not sure how good this stuff is really as I haven't used it before.
With the Pump set to 60% speed within the bios and the fans running full speed I am now peaking at 60c after an hour of gaming, using Coretemp to record the hottest temperature reached. To be honest I was hoping for better as my CPU is only getting 1.22V to achieve it's Overclock, still 3c cooler is at least in the right direction. Does this seem a reasonable result to you? Any feedback on the supplied TIM that I've used? Hope this helps to give an idea of what to expect moving up a RAD size, albeit a different make!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Posted on here just a few days ago, having ordered my Swiftech H320 to replace my Coolit Eco A.L.C 240, this is just a follow up for anyone interested!
> I ordered my H320 from Amazon.co.uk and it was swiftly despatched from Toulouse in France, it cost around £123 delivered in 4 days so very impressed, also the box is pristine, very well packaged and not a mark on it!
> I have an I7 950 O/Clocked to 4GHZ and was getting temps of around 63c whilst gaming, my setup is housed in a HAF-X full tower case.
> I stripped out my old cooler and cleaned the cpu of old TIM (arctic silver) and proceeded with the install. Having removed the old backplate from my Asus P6X58D-E m/board I came across my first difficulty.
> My m/board has what Asus call Stack 3 fanless design and the backplate on the cpu area is quite large, I found that the Swiftech backplate would not go through the 4 holes in the m/board because of this Asus design, I was still able to fit the cooler but it required a 2nd person to hold the backplate to the m/board whilst I lined up the cooler on the other side and got the 4 screws started. No big Drama but I think this would have been a real struggle on my own, maybe impossible!
> The 360 Rad is in the top of my case with the fans connected to the underside of the 2 mounts in the top of the case, the reservoir is facing upwards and I can access it easily from the top by simply removing the top section of my case.
> I removed the 2 large 200mm fans that I had in the top of my HAF-X however I could have kept them if desired, just figured that 2 lots of fans on top of each other was overkill really, however that's how I had my 240mm ECO A.L.C installed and it worked very well.
> I have used the Swiftech TIM that came supplied with the H320, not sure how good this stuff is really as I haven't used it before.
> With the Pump set to 60% speed within the bios and the fans running full speed I am now peaking at 60c after an hour of gaming, using Coretemp to record the hottest temperature reached. To be honest I was hoping for better as my CPU is only getting 1.22V to achieve it's Overclock, still 3c cooler is at least in the right direction. Does this seem a reasonable result to you? Any feedback on the supplied TIM that I've used? Hope this helps to give an idea of what to expect moving up a RAD size, albeit a different make!


fyi a good way to mount any swiftech product is to use either a pillow or rag ( folded ), dear god please take static elec. precautions.

put it under the mobo/backplate. and then attach block.

i have mounted several times my apogee hd and h220 this way in less then 2 min

if you want performance over silence in my experience if you replace the stock helixs with higher rpm/static pressure fans will drop temps tremendously !


----------



## Cyberpunk71

MegaMan,

Thanks, good to know, will maybe change the fans when the warmer weather is here

As for the Static Precaution, I always touch a radiator (house 1) before doing any work on my PC, never in 18yrs have I fried anything (besides a few eggs)


----------



## Mega Man

I was talking about the pillow/rags


----------



## Blackops_2

CPU fan header on my motherboard for the pump usually reads around 900-1000rpm is this accurate? I assume the glacer is set to run much faster than that? I haven't adjusted PWM slopes so maybe the Mobo just has default settings for it? Though it's not a problem the thing is dead silent and i get great results with it as is.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> CPU fan header on my motherboard for the pump usually reads around 900-1000rpm is this accurate? I assume the glacer is set to run much faster than that? I haven't adjusted PWM slopes so maybe the Mobo just has default settings for it? Though it's not a problem the thing is dead silent and i get great results with it as is.


That seems a little low. I have mine set to 2000 for idle and curves up to 3000 for max.
just could be setting for fan header.
What MB?
are you tuning in bios or in windows with software?


----------



## Mega Man

if you have not changed settings most mobos have their own fan curve set


----------



## eXecuution

Got my H320 in today. Looks great, can't wait to get it set up and running!!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> That seems a little low. I have mine set to 2000 for idle and curves up to 3000 for max.
> just could be setting for fan header.
> What MB?
> are you tuning in bios or in windows with software?


Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3. Highest temp i've seen on my 3770k was 52C in IBT. 47C while running Cinebench and i don't break 43C when playing BF4.


----------



## Mega Man

why does everyone think cinebench is worth a dang as a stability bench or for temps ? ( please note this is not directed at you or anyone, but alot of people have used it for stability test, "i am 5ghz stable, see *posts shots of cinebench*" )


----------



## CM MR HAF

By the way, we just shipped out Glacer to our channels this week so its back in stock.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> By the way, we just shipped out Glacer to our channels this week so its back in stock.


I also suggest that everyone have a look at the unboxing and review that Linus just did on it. Its performance was right in line with expectations.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why does everyone think cinebench is worth a dang as a stability bench or for temps ? ( please note this is not directed at you or anyone, but alot of people have used it for stability test, "i am 5ghz stable, see *posts shots of cinebench*" )


I use it as a medium between gaming temps and stress temps. Just to see what i would get. I'm still on stock. For stability p95 and 24/7 use my testing. I use IBT as well but i've had several runs on IBT stable yet wouldn't stabilize during p95. I haven't OCed my 3770k I need to get on it this week.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why does everyone think cinebench is worth a dang as a stability bench or for temps ? ( please note this is not directed at you or anyone, but alot of people have used it for stability test, "i am 5ghz stable, see *posts shots of cinebench*" )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I use it as a medium between gaming temps and stress temps. Just to see what i would get. I'm still on stock. For stability p95 and 24/7 use my testing. I use IBT as well but i've had several runs on IBT stable yet wouldn't stabilize during p95. I haven't OCed my 3770k I need to get on it this week.


It just works...I use a combination of XTU, Cinebench and primecoin cpu mining. I then proceed to test imc/ram with superpi 32m, IBT max mem and XTU memory test.

It's better than mindless prime95 running imho. I prefer to test stability for the stuff I use and don't take ages at it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why does everyone think cinebench is worth a dang as a stability bench or for temps ? ( please note this is not directed at you or anyone, but alot of people have used it for stability test, "i am 5ghz stable, see *posts shots of cinebench*" )
> 
> 
> 
> I use it as a medium between gaming temps and stress temps. Just to see what i would get. I'm still on stock. For stability p95 and 24/7 use my testing. I use IBT as well but i've had several runs on IBT stable yet wouldn't stabilize during p95. I haven't OCed my 3770k I need to get on it this week.
Click to expand...

but it isnt , cinebench does not give time for the water to peak
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why does everyone think cinebench is worth a dang as a stability bench or for temps ? ( please note this is not directed at you or anyone, but alot of people have used it for stability test, "i am 5ghz stable, see *posts shots of cinebench*" )
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I use it as a medium between gaming temps and stress temps. Just to see what i would get. I'm still on stock. For stability p95 and 24/7 use my testing. I use IBT as well but i've had several runs on IBT stable yet wouldn't stabilize during p95. I haven't OCed my 3770k I need to get on it this week.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It just works...I use a combination of XTU, Cinebench and primecoin cpu mining. I then proceed to test imc/ram with superpi 32m, IBT max mem and XTU memory test.
> 
> It's better than mindless prime95 running imho. I prefer to test stability for the stuff I use and don't take ages at it.
Click to expand...

depends, again i am not telling you your way is wrong, and mostly stability is subjective but this is something to think about


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...





so if you use anything you want to keep, IE family photos, it is something to think about !


----------



## rack04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> By the way, we just shipped out Glacer to our channels this week so its back in stock.


Mine should arrive in the next couple days. Maybe you can answer a question for me. Does the Glacer 240L come with all the necessary hardware to install push and pull fans?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but it isnt , cinebench does not give time for the water to peak
> depends, again i am not telling you your way is wrong, and mostly stability is subjective but this is something to think about
> 
> so if you use anything you want to keep, IE family photos, it is something to think about !


With this I agree...I test for stability to prevent errors as well, no fun in having your os get corrupted. That's why I do an hdd image after installing everything I need update and driver wise in each system. (no gpu drivers though). I normally reflash that image once or twice till I nail the ideal driver setup for any given card/s.


----------



## Blackops_2

I've had 18+ hr p95 rigs lose stability hell i've had 24hr p95 stable rigs lose stability. The only one i never had a problem out of was when i got 48hrs stable p95.

My 8320 rig i can't reliably test for stability because my h212 is inadequate for the CPU so i just went about my regular process of gaming and benching. Never had a crash or anything like that. First rig i've ever considered stable like that. Usually i'm very uptight about getting a rig stable and eliminating errors. Same goes for GPUs i've had my 7970 pas 45 minutes of Furmark only to artifact in some games. Stability is a funny thing.


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> By the way, we just shipped out Glacer to our ch-nnels this week so its back in stock.


Great to hear. I just saw that Amazon now has it listed, out of stock, but it's finally listed.


----------



## Dudewitbow

agg gpu block leaking, gotta disassemble. probably only cool CPU for now(also gotta get the bubbles out of my block)


----------



## Jthorpe

Hello All,

I am new to overclock.net, and I have a question regarding the Cooler Master Glacer 240L (Swiftech H220).

I am looking to purchase the Glacer 240L for my new build, but I am curious on a possible issue I noticed in pictures of different setups.

My MB will be the Asus Maximus VI Hero, and I was wondering if I will loose the first red dimm slot closest to the CPU socket. The ram that I have is the G.Skill Ripsaws X, which has a larger heatsink.

I went through the pictures that were posted on this thread, but I could not find a MB that is really close to the Hero

I know that the Glacer is really similar to the H220.

I don't want to buy the Glacer then have to return it.

Thank you in advance for your help

JThorpe


----------



## n00bular

Hi guys,

I just got my h220 from the NCIX sale. Are the stock fans any good? Installation and all went smooth but when I first booted it up I noticed there's a very loud clicking noise. One of the fans seems to be not turning well. I have 4 Noctua NF-P12s but I'm thinking on picking up some NF-F12s to replace the stuck fan. Clicking is driving me nuts! Any advice?


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hey Guys,

Started my PC today and got a warning of CPU fan failure, switched off immediately and checked the PWM header for connectivity.

Everything looked fine, No Noises from the H320 Pump, The Outlet Hose was Incredibly Hot and all around the CPU socket very warm,

Booted up PC again and the same warning, went straight into Bios, CPU 97c, Powered off quickly!!!!

Left for 10 mins and booted again holding pump to feel for Vibrations, Pump working fine, no noises and PC booted to desktop, CPU

Idling around 34C as usual. I've only had the H320 installed for a few days, could this have been an air bubble?? Lucky not to have Burnt

out my CPU. Has anyone else experienced this at all?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Started my PC today and got a warning of CPU fan failure, switched off immediately and checked the PWM header for connectivity.
> 
> Everything looked fine, No Noises from the H320 Pump, The Outlet Hose was Incredibly Hot and all around the CPU socket very warm,
> 
> Booted up PC again and the same warning, went straight into Bios, CPU 97c, Powered off quickly!!!!
> 
> Left for 10 mins and booted again holding pump to feel for Vibrations, Pump working fine, no noises and PC booted to desktop, CPU
> 
> Idling around 34C as usual. I've only had the H320 installed for a few days, could this have been an air bubble?? Lucky not to have Burnt
> 
> out my CPU. Has anyone else experienced this at all?


I experienced the same thing with my H220 with the original impeller design, I think it could have seized up shortly because of an air bubble like mine had but with the new design it seemed to have worked its way out of the pump on your H320.

My cpu hit 99c and my gpu hit 80+c when it happened, just glad I had precision x monitoring on and cpuz in second monitor while I was playing BF3.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Thanks Azefore,

I'll be keeping an eye on it, hopefully just a teething Problem


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bular*
> 
> I have 4 Noctua NF-P12s but I'm thinking on picking up some NF-F12s to replace the stuck fan. Any advice?


If youcells have the P12s as PWM version, then you should not buy F12s(much louder at full speed), as the H220 is designed for low rpm and static pressure and if you go to push pull, then the P12s slower rpm doesn't mean much in temperatures.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> Great to hear. I just saw that Amazon now has it listed, out of stock, but it's finally listed.


newegg instock, all the others still showing out of stock.


----------



## n00bular

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> If youcells have the P12s as PWM version, then you should not buy F12s(much louder at full speed), as the H220 is designed for low rpm and static pressure and if you go to push pull, then the P12s slower rpm doesn't mean much in temperatures.


Yeah I thought about trying out the P12's, but I'd still probably need another 2 fans. Are F12's that much louder? I don't think my new case allows for push/pull setup (650D)


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bular*
> 
> Yeah I thought about trying out the P12's, but I'd still probably need another 2 fans. Are F12's that much louder? I don't think my new case allows for push/pull setup (650D)


Just get other fans, Gelid Silent 12's work wonders for me.


----------



## rack04

I just received a Glacer 240L and noticed that it comes with 8 long screws that are not listed on the bill of materials. Can you explain what these are used for? I hope they can be used to mount two additional fans in push/pull. Please advice.


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jthorpe*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am new to overclock.net, and I have a question regarding the Cooler Master Glacer 240L (Swiftech H220).
> 
> I am looking to purchase the Glacer 240L for my new build, but I am curious on a possible issue I noticed in pictures of different setups.
> 
> My MB will be the Asus Maximus VI Hero, and I was wondering if I will loose the first red dimm slot closest to the CPU socket. The ram that I have is the G.Skill Ripsaws X, which has a larger heatsink.
> 
> I went through the pictures that were posted on this thread, but I could not find a MB that is really close to the Hero
> 
> I know that the Glacer is really similar to the H220.
> 
> I don't want to buy the Glacer then have to return it.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help
> 
> JThorpe


Did you see this post? It's the Extreme model in the ROG line, I think the dimensions should be quite similar.


----------



## Theroty

I got my h220 today. Let it get room temp from being in UPS truck for 6 days. When I took the bubble wrap off this evening there appeared to be some condensation on the radiator. When I wiped it off with my finger I noticed under it the paint appeared distorted. It had no smell to it so I assume it is water. Below is a pic of the radiator.

Edit:Well snap pic won't upload. Will have to use something besides my phone shortly.


----------



## Theroty

So the bag that has the AMD screws in it along with the 4 washers has no springs in it. They were not attached to the brackets obviously. So I have the springs that were mounted on it, springs with the lga 2011 screws and that's all. The kit came with 8 springs total. So are the 8 Intel springs the same as the AMD?


----------



## Mega Man

i had this as well, bram checked with the engineer and he said you can use the intel spring without issue, DO NOT USE THE 2011 SPRINGS !! use the other one,


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hmmm,

Same again today, pump would not start, got it going on the 5th attempt by tapping the pump cover, Removed the Reservoir fill cap, full

to the brim not a bubble in sight, once running it can run all day, no problems, any ideas Guys??


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hmmm,
> 
> Same again today, pump would not start, got it going on the 5th attempt by tapping the pump cover, Removed the Reservoir fill cap, full
> 
> to the brim not a bubble in sight, once running it can run all day, no problems, any ideas Guys??


Send me a PM and I can help you with this. It would also help if you put the specs of your system in your signature. This way when you ask questions people can see what you're running and have a better idea of what the issue might be.


----------



## Mr Bl0nde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Okay, but as far as the the fan sides, they're just going to be exposed, right? Nothing wrong with that from a functional standpoint. I've been looking for an after-market cover but can't seem to find anything. Thought of having one made (3D printing) that would mount to my case's outter holes, which I guess are 140mm fan holes. Here's the preliminary model/render:


did you ever get this printed?


----------



## DOOOLY

I have a Question i just got my H220 replacement, and i was wondering if the coolant would freeze in the rad..I live in Canada and it was really cold last few days and the H220 was on a ups truck probably all day.


----------



## Dudewitbow

my H220's water trickle finally stopped(2nd day of testing post adding a 120mm radiator to it(own a very unfriendly case for WC)) running at ~1600rpm. Making my post here to register date to see if I end up getting any future problems(I have a 100mm reservoir installed, so air bubbles aren't the greatest concern really) to see how long a random say, test goes without itches. never tested the unit at stock so i'm assuming the original air bubbles came from me draining and refilling it. Tis working great though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> I have a Question i just got my H220 replacement, and i was wondering if the coolant would freeze in the rad..I live in Canada and it was really cold last few days and the H220 was on a ups truck probably all day.


yes it can it depends on how much coolant they use and what kind. ( mixture not amount )


----------



## blaze0079

Is there any plans for a version of the glacier that is similar to the h320?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze0079*
> 
> Is there any plans for a version of the glacier that is similar to the h320?


Yes. But that's all I can really say about it. Ask one of the CM reps. They might have an answer as to when it will be on the market.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes. But that's all I can really say about it. Ask one of the CM reps. They might have an answer as to when it will be on the market.


Might as well grab that if I can't revive my pump...Or maybe it's smarter to just get a rad and a pump.
How hard is it to remove the pump from the cpu block?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Might as well grab that if I can't revive my pump...Or maybe it's smarter to just get a rad and a pump.
> How hard is it to remove the pump from the cpu block?


It's not hard, but the block can't be used without the pump and vice versa. One seals the other.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's not hard, but the block can't be used without the pump and vice versa. One seals the other.


Ah, good to know...then I'll try my luck at fixing it, and if I do alright with my business projects I'll just buy a new mcp35x and a swiftech block (not sure which is the best you guys sell, for 2011 socket







)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Ah, good to know...then I'll try my luck at fixing it, and if I do alright with my business projects I'll just buy a new mcp35x and a swiftech block (not sure which is the best you guys sell, for 2011 socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That would be the Apogee HD 2011. I'm using it right now with an AMD mounting kit and with my current loop it hasn't hit 50C. That's with an overclock of 800MHz and 1.45 on the V Core.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Nice, wish me luck man, I have a few things planned for the coming days...


----------



## PearlJammzz

I am in the US. Anyone know where I can purchase a H320 and an H220? I want 1 of each for a GPU/CPU setup. I am unable to find either in the US.


----------



## M3TAl

Wait you want to run two separate loops? And put the pump/block combo on a GPU? Why not just buy either just the H220 or H320, another radiator, and GPU block (either universal or full cover).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> I am in the US. Anyone know where I can purchase a H320 and an H220? I want 1 of each for a GPU/CPU setup. I am unable to find either in the US.


\

These aren't available for sale in the US. You'd have to buy them from a reseller like NCIX in Canada. Here in the US you'd need to purchase the Cooler Master Glacer 240L if you want an H220.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Mostly two separate loops because it'd cost about the same to get a block and another rad. Only down side I can foresee is if the pumps are really loud. From what I have read, however, is that they aren't.

This also gives me the option of selling the solution as a whole if I decide I don't like it for whatever reason. So flexibility I guess is the answer.


----------



## PearlJammzz

I ordered from NCIX Canada. Hopefully I'll receive it before the Christmas break so I can put it all together







. Thank you for the help in finding a solid dealer!


----------



## M3TAl

How will you attach the H220/320 block to a GPU? I'm still confused how this is all going to work.


----------



## Scorpion667

I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...






Shipping would cost more then the product to get it replaced so I'll call it a loss. I honestly don't want that crap clogging my blocks.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How will you attach the H220/320 block to a GPU? I'm still confused how this is all going to work.


Same here, it'd be more cost efficient to get a small pump by itself and use the rest of the money for a radiator, the gpu block would cost the same either way if you're going with this idea and that way you don't have a bulky cpu/pump block laying around.

I do think, however, if he's going for that idea a Kraken G10 kit with a 240mm AIO would be the cheapest option, that is unless Dwood is still making his adapters (haven't seen/checked in a long while).

Side note: Sorry if this went over my head and PearlJammzz is intending to make a bracket to attach the H220 combo section on to the gpu itself.


----------



## M3TAl

There are at least two other alternatives to the Dwood bracket here on OCN. Sigma_Cool (acrylic, comes with copper shim, and from Austin, TX I believe) and GPU COOL (from UK ships worldwide, metal and comes with copper shims as well).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Ah, good to know...then I'll try my luck at fixing it, and if I do alright with my business projects I'll just buy a new mcp35x and a swiftech block (not sure which is the best you guys sell, for 2011 socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> That would be the Apogee HD 2011. I'm using it right now with an AMD mounting kit and with my current loop it hasn't hit 50C. That's with an overclock of 800MHz and 1.45 on the V Core.
Click to expand...

is there a different version of the apogee hd for 2011 ??????
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> I am in the US. Anyone know where I can purchase a H320 and an H220? I want 1 of each for a GPU/CPU setup. I am unable to find either in the US.


ncix sometimes stocks them ( i think they ship from CAN still ) or ncix.ca does as well


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping would cost more then the product to get it replaced so I'll call it a loss. I honestly don't want that crap clogging my blocks.


Hard to tell what it is. Plus why get it from FrozenCPU when you could of got it from NCIX instead for $5.99 as you are in Toronto.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Mostly two separate loops because it'd cost about the same to get a block and another rad. Only down side I can foresee is if the pumps are really loud. From what I have read, however, is that they aren't.
> 
> This also gives me the option of selling the solution as a whole if I decide I don't like it for whatever reason. So flexibility I guess is the answer.


This is a good idea, but there are no off-the-shelf solutions for fitting an H220 on a GPU. Like previously mentioned, the better option would be to get an Asetek-based AIO (H55, H100 non-I, Kraken) and a Kraken GPU mount. But if you're thinking of all that why not just get a unblock and expand it into the loop for a little more professional look? It would also help quiet the pump since it would slow the flow. If it's a 7970 or below I would just add it into the loop without N extra rad myself.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping would cost more then the product to get it replaced so I'll call it a loss. I honestly don't want that crap clogging my blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to tell what it is. Plus why get it from FrozenCPU when you could of got it from NCIX instead for $5.99 as you are in Toronto.
Click to expand...

afaik h220 and any varient uses hydrax2 which is blue !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Mostly two separate loops because it'd cost about the same to get a block and another rad. Only down side I can foresee is if the pumps are really loud. From what I have read, however, is that they aren't.
> 
> This also gives me the option of selling the solution as a whole if I decide I don't like it for whatever reason. So flexibility I guess is the answer.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a good idea, but there are no off-the-shelf solutions for fitting an H220 on a GPU. Like previously mentioned, the better option would be to get an Asetek-based AIO (H55, H100 non-I, Kraken) and a Kraken GPU mount. But if you're thinking of all that why not just get a unblock and expand it into the loop for a little more professional look? It would also help quiet the pump since it would slow the flow. If it's a 7970 or below I would just add it into the loop without N extra rad myself.
Click to expand...

because like another fruity company logo they are a patent troll, and we dont wanna support them ?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> afaik h220 and any varient uses hydrax2 which is blue !
> because like another fruity company logo they are a patent troll, and we dont wanna support them ?


I never said it was the best idea, just a cheaper and easier one. I gave my best case scenario too, which was best and cheapest IMO.


----------



## Mega Man

was not a direct assault just stating my opinion, i never pass up a chance to insult patent trolls !


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...


I've got the HydrX-PM2 in one of my non H220 rigs and recently I noticed that I had a leak requiring me to drain the coolant.

I noticed there was some crap in the coolant so I used a coffee filter to remove it.

After fixing the leak I reused my filtered HydrX-PM2 and I haven't seen an more "whatever-that-is" floating in the coolant.

PS: BramSLI1, I need approximately 3 bottles for a rig I'm putting together so could you send them post-haste!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...
> 
> Shipping would cost more then the product to get it replaced so I'll call it a loss. I honestly don't want that crap clogging my blocks.


I'm very sorry about this. PM me and I'll see what I can do for you.


----------



## cam51037

I'm having issues installing my h320, the mounting screws (short black ones) don't fit the rad holes. Has this happened to anyone else before?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I'm having issues installing my h320, the mounting screws (short black ones) don't fit the rad holes. Has this happened to anyone else before?


The short black ones are for the fans. The short chrome screws are for the radiator.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I'm having issues installing my h320, the mounting screws (short black ones) don't fit the rad holes. Has this happened to anyone else before?


your case screws should come with the standard threading to mount them on the radiator directly. the screws with the unit are either the 30mm for a fan+ radiator or the short screws which are for attaching the fan


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I got two bottles of HydrX-PM2 (same liquid as in the H220) from Frozen CPU and there's crap floating inside the bottle... surely this can't be normal? Both bottles are this way you can see whatever-that-is floating inside the bottle. They are still sealed with the FrozenCPU tape on the lid...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping would cost more then the product to get it replaced so I'll call it a loss. I honestly don't want that crap clogging my blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to tell what it is. Plus why get it from FrozenCPU when you could of got it from NCIX instead for $5.99 as you are in Toronto.
Click to expand...

Oh I was grabbing a radiator, fittings and tubing that NCIX and Daz don't carry so I figured might as well bundle everything from FCPU. They have an awesome selection.

Guys I need your help:

What could I use to clean the H220 unit?
vinegar?
I have a little bit of algae growing in there, but that's my fault =P


----------



## IF6WAS9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jthorpe*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am new to overclock.net, and I have a question regarding the Cooler Master Glacer 240L (Swiftech H220).
> 
> I am looking to purchase the Glacer 240L for my new build, but I am curious on a possible issue I noticed in pictures of different setups.
> 
> My MB will be the Asus Maximus VI Hero, and I was wondering if I will loose the first red dimm slot closest to the CPU socket. The ram that I have is the G.Skill Ripsaws X, which has a larger heatsink.
> 
> I went through the pictures that were posted on this thread, but I could not find a MB that is really close to the Hero
> 
> I know that the Glacer is really similar to the H220.
> 
> I don't want to buy the Glacer then have to return it.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help
> 
> JThorpe


Not sure if you've gotten an answer yet but I can confirm that the Glacer 240L will fit on the Hero board, as I just finished installing one on that board. It does appear to hit the heat sink around the cpu if mounting it with the logo right side up for instance. Check orientation for clearance before tightening all the way down and you should be all set.


----------



## Jthorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IF6WAS9*
> 
> Not sure if you've gotten an answer yet but I can confirm that the Glacer 240L will fit on the Hero board, as I just finished installing one on that board. It does appear to hit the heat sink around the cpu if mounting it with the logo right side up for instance. Check orientation for clearance before tightening all the way down and you should be all set.


Thank you for the response.

Ok, so it just hits the heatsink. Can you still put ram in that dimm slot? How did you set it up? Would you happen to have picture, just so I can get a visual?


----------



## cam51037

Can I return my H320 directly to Swiftech for a full refund, or would I have to go through the store I purchased it from?

My experience with the H320 is by far the worst experience I have *ever* had with any computer product. Instructions are difficult to understand, the tubing gets tangled if you install it the way it appears to supposed to be installed, and the backplate is the worst design I've ever seen of a backplate, it's impossible to mount the CPU in it because of it's deisgn, it pops off whenever you start putting a screw into it.

Going to take this H320 out and put back in my Hyper 212, I've wasted enough time screwing around with this cooler already.


----------



## Phelan

No manufacturer will allow returns for refund through them if it's bought from a retailer. RMAs can go through Swiftech but a return would have to go through the place you bought it.

I'm sorry you've had the problems you've had, but it shouldn't be as much trouble as it has been for you. If the radiator mounted isn't in the way of the CPU socket when mounting, I'd mount it first. If you're having problems with the backplate, I'd tape it on the back before you start threading the screws of the cooler.


----------



## IF6WAS9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jthorpe*
> 
> Thank you for the response.
> 
> Ok, so it just hits the heatsink. Can you still put ram in that dimm slot? How did you set it up? Would you happen to have picture, just so I can get a visual?


I'm not sure if ram will fit in the slot closest to the cpu or not as I have the other 2 slots populated. My guess is that it might just fit. I installed the pump upside down (the logo upside down) in order clear the 2 heat sinks around the cpu. It may fit in other positions but I installed mine into a fully built system which made it more difficult to see.

I'll try and get some pics later today but I have a lot of snow to shovel


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> No manufacturer will allow returns for refund through them if it's bought from a retailer. RMAs can go through Swiftech but a return would have to go through the place you bought it.
> 
> I'm sorry you've had the problems you've had, but it shouldn't be as much trouble as it has been for you. If the radiator mounted isn't in the way of the CPU socket when mounting, I'd mount it first. If you're having problems with the backplate, I'd tape it on the back before you start threading the screws of the cooler.


or use a pillow or rag behind the mobo


----------



## IF6WAS9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jthorpe*
> 
> Thank you for the response.
> 
> Ok, so it just hits the heatsink. Can you still put ram in that dimm slot? How did you set it up? Would you happen to have picture, just so I can get a visual?


Ok here are 3 pictures that should help. If you look at the 2 heat sinks you'll see a beveled edge at one end and this is where the inlet & outlet have enough clearance. This means the block will fit in 2 positions either upside down or sideways (I think as I did not try sideways). As far as using the first memory slot goes, I'd say it's pretty sketchy.


----------



## ethansdad

Hi,

I'm considering getting the Glacer 240L with the following components for a build

Fractal Design Define R4
Asus z87-PLUS
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory

Anyone using the same type of components?

I'm afraid that the memory will get in the way.

I see videos on youtube that say that I can offset the radiator a bit if installed it at the top of the R4. However, I'm concerned that this would negate the silent feature of the case (as there would be space left over).

Would I have to order sleeves to get the 8 pin connector on the Asus Z87-Plus?

Any other recommendations on a great silent case like the R4 for this build?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thank in advance.


----------



## Jthorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IF6WAS9*
> 
> Ok here are 3 pictures that should help. If you look at the 2 heat sinks you'll see a beveled edge at one end and this is where the inlet & outlet have enough clearance. This means the block will fit in 2 positions either upside down or sideways (I think as I did not try sideways). As far as using the first memory slot goes, I'd say it's pretty sketchy.


Thank you!

Those pictures have helped a lot.

JThorpe


----------



## Jthorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IF6WAS9*
> 
> Ok here are 3 pictures that should help. If you look at the 2 heat sinks you'll see a beveled edge at one end and this is where the inlet & outlet have enough clearance. This means the block will fit in 2 positions either upside down or sideways (I think as I did not try sideways). As far as using the first memory slot goes, I'd say it's pretty sketchy.


Thank You!!

Those pictures have helped a lot.


----------



## degenn

Can we not install these things with the reservoir upside down?

I just picked up an H320 and have been running it for leak test and to bleed air through the fill port. When it's in the upright orientation with the fillport facing up it's quiet but when I turn it upside down in the same way I'll have to install it into my case -- it makes very loud water sloshing sounds which I cannot get to go away no matter what typical methods I use to do so. It's also variable... sometimes I can hear almost what sounds like the pump struggling or changing flow speed....

If we can only install these in one orientation for silence that's pretty weak and I regret buying one. I can't install this thing upright unless I start hacking my case with a dremel. The piece that I would have to cut is a main part of my case and is expensive to replace -- needless to say I don't want to start hacking away at a vital panel that isn't one of the cheap/easily replaceable ones.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Can we not install these things with the reservoir upside down?
> 
> I just picked up an H320 and have been running it for leak test and to bleed air through the fill port. When it's in the upright orientation with the fillport facing up it's quiet but when I turn it upside down in the same way I'll have to install it into my case -- it makes very loud water sloshing sounds which I cannot get to go away no matter what typical methods I use to do so. It's also variable... sometimes I can hear almost what sounds like the pump struggling or changing flow speed....
> 
> If we can only install these in one orientation for silence that's pretty weak and I regret buying one. I can't install this thing upright unless I start hacking my case with a dremel. The piece that I would have to cut is a main part of my case and is expensive to replace -- needless to say I don't want to start hacking away at a vital panel that isn't one of the cheap/easily replaceable ones.


then buy and add in a reservoir


----------



## degenn

That defeats the purpose of being an AIO plug'n'play unit. If I wanted to do something like that I'd build a custom loop to begin with, using much better parts than these.

What I'd like is for BramSLI1 to try and work with myself and NCIX so I can get a refund -- I don't even mind paying a re-stock fee if necessary.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> That defeats the purpose of being an AIO plug'n'play unit. If I wanted to do something like that I'd build a custom loop to begin with, using much better parts than these.
> 
> What I'd like is for BramSLI1 to try and work with myself and NCIX so I can get a refund -- I don't even mind paying a re-stock fee if necessary.


well. all swiftech products are well documented (See?, gabe does this for a good reason,. to make sure this kind of thing does not happen and you can plan your build well, as is ALL swiftech products on their product page ) near the bottom, planning is everything and i dont see why bram SHOULD do anything, with that said swiftech is amazing and he may help, but swiftech is not NCIX and has NOTHING to do with them and has no pull you need to contact the user CHRIS-NCIX

what is clear is you had very UNREAL expectations for a unit and that it fell short of them, that sucks, but i dont think either swiftech OR NCIX should take the hit due to your lack of planning


----------



## Theroty

Just to clarify this, in the instructions it says to tighten till the screws bottom out. That means for AMD the bottom of the screw on the shaft(not the threaded area) will be touching the metal of the backplate correct? Because this is how mine is and since I used those springs that were on the intel bracket I won't lie it was extremely tight. Just made me wonder about it ya know?

And for the res on the rad, I too have sloshing sounds and occasional clicks but that is because mine is mounted in the bottom of my case instead. The res on the rad is in the up position though with the fans intake through the bottom. The physical attributes of the rad did not work with the Storm Scout II and for the CM 690 I am sure it would not fit under the top panel with the fans in the case. The fans would fit under the top panel with the rad inside but that would require to flip the rad with the res on the bottom. Hence why I have it in the bottom of the case. All is well though because I am taking this case back and getting my self a corsair air 540.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well. all swiftech products are well documented (See?, gabe does this for a good reason,. to make sure this kind of thing does not happen and you can plan your build well, as is ALL swiftech products on their product page ) near the bottom, planning is everything


It's got nothing to with a lack of planning. If you are referring to the visual diagrams regarding the radiator dimensions, that's merely an illustration to show how big it is and check for fitment/clearance in cases... not how it should be installed/mounted in the case.

Nowhere in the product documentation or specifications is it said that these can only be mounted one-way and that it has to be with the fill-port facing up. If that was the case -- I can tell you with 100% certainty that I would not have purchased one. Not only that... on the compatibility part of their website you can see it installed upside down multiple times. That being said... I had a good feeling it wouldn't work well upside down & sideways as has been reported many times in this thread, but I tried one anyway. My mistake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and i dont see why bram SHOULD do anything, with that said swiftech is amazing and he may help, but swiftech is not NCIX and has NOTHING to do with them and has no pull you need to contact the user CHRIS-NCIX
> 
> what is clear is you had very UNREAL expectations for a unit and that it fell short of them, that sucks, but i dont think either swiftech OR NCIX should take the hit due to your lack of planning


Bram doesn't have to do anything if he doesn't want to, nor am I making any demands that he do so. Relax.

The reason I mentioned it is due to the return policy at NCIX -- it would be nice if he'd be willing to work with me if necessary to try and get a refund. It's not the end of the world if he can't or doesn't want to. Again... relax.

Oh and I certainly did not have unreal expectations (is expecting it to work relatively silently considered unreal? I mean... it's one of the of marketing bullet-points on the box if you want to go there). In fact it was pretty much the opposite -- I honestly had low expectations after having done a bit of research on these units, had a feeling I'd regret the purchase. I should have listened to my gut. Lesson learned I suppose.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Just to clarify this, in the instructions it says to tighten till the screws bottom out. That means for AMD the bottom of the screw on the shaft(not the threaded area) will be touching the metal of the backplate correct? Because this is how mine is and since I used those springs that were on the intel bracket I won't lie it was extremely tight. Just made me wonder about it ya know?
> 
> And for the res on the rad, I too have sloshing sounds and occasional clicks but that is because mine is mounted in the bottom of my case instead. The res on the rad is in the up position though with the fans intake through the bottom. The physical attributes of the rad did not work with the Storm Scout II and for the CM 690 I am sure it would not fit under the top panel with the fans in the case. The fans would fit under the top panel with the rad inside but that would require to flip the rad with the res on the bottom. Hence why I have it in the bottom of the case. All is well though because I am taking this case back and getting my self a corsair air 540.


yes, it is supposed to be tight as it is the springs that keep contact with the block to the ihs you dont want it to come loose and have gaps ( air bubbles ) in the tim !


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Can we not install these things with the reservoir upside down?
> 
> I just picked up an H320 and have been running it for leak test and to bleed air through the fill port. When it's in the upright orientation with the fillport facing up it's quiet but when I turn it upside down in the same way I'll have to install it into my case -- it makes very loud water sloshing sounds which I cannot get to go away no matter what typical methods I use to do so. It's also variable... sometimes I can hear almost what sounds like the pump struggling or changing flow speed....
> 
> If we can only install these in one orientation for silence that's pretty weak and I regret buying one. I can't install this thing upright unless I start hacking my case with a dremel. The piece that I would have to cut is a main part of my case and is expensive to replace -- needless to say I don't want to start hacking away at a vital panel that isn't one of the cheap/easily replaceable ones.


What is in the way that it doesn't fit right side up?


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What is in the way that it doesn't fit right side up?


In the upright orientation it will fit in push or pull only -- in a push/pull configuration it won't fit unless I have the reservoir upside down but then I'd have to deal with the aforementioned pump noise. Basically what's getting in the way (for a push/pull config) would be the extended lip of the reservoir, the part that sticks up above the rad about 1/4" where the fill port is located.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethansdad*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm considering getting the Glacer 240L with the following components for a build
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4
> Asus z87-PLUS
> G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
> 
> Anyone using the same type of components?
> 
> I'm afraid that the memory will get in the way.


I have H320 on ASUS Z87-PLUS with two tall memory sticks in the default slots, no probs. Might be issue if you use all 4 slots, not sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethansdad*
> 
> Any other recommendations on a great silent case like the R4 for this build?


Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 is similar, or NZXT H630 is another nice quiet option, if you don't mind it being huge. I have mine in an NZXT Switch 810.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What is in the way that it doesn't fit right side up?
> 
> 
> 
> In the upright orientation it will fit in push or pull only -- in a push/pull configuration it won't fit unless I have the reservoir upside down but then I'd have to deal with the aforementioned pump noise. Basically what's getting in the way (for a push/pull config) would be the extended lip of the reservoir, the part that sticks up above the rad about 1/4" where the fill port is located.
Click to expand...

yea does not help,. i dont know of anything that is extended over the fans, besides you dont need push pull, you would be lucky if it helps 1c deg


----------



## Temerario78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Can I return my H320 directly to Swiftech for a full refund, or would I have to go through the store I purchased it from?
> 
> My experience with the H320 is by far the worst experience I have *ever* had with any computer product. Instructions are difficult to understand, the tubing gets tangled if you install it the way it appears to supposed to be installed, and the backplate is the worst design I've ever seen of a backplate, it's impossible to mount the CPU in it because of it's deisgn, it pops off whenever you start putting a screw into it.
> 
> Going to take this H320 out and put back in my Hyper 212, I've wasted enough time screwing around with this cooler already.


I agree, it took me one hour more or less to put install the 220. At the end the best method was to hold the blackplate with one hand and at the same time with the other try to screw the pump. Even when it has some stickers, the holes can move. A better system would be great for the future.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethansdad*
> 
> I'm afraid that the memory will get in the way.
> Any other recommendations on a great silent case like the R4 for this build?


Nanoxia Deep Silence 1.

It has 52mm clearance between motherboard and radiator, and the G.Skill (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231528) heat spreaders are about 45mm from the motherboard, so they will not conflict with the radiator by any way.

http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/1/Deep+Silence+1

Check it out, and see if it fits for yourcells taste.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> In the upright orientation it will fit in push or pull only -- in a push/pull configuration it won't fit unless I have the reservoir upside down but then I'd have to deal with the aforementioned pump noise. Basically what's getting in the way (for a push/pull config) would be the extended lip of the reservoir, the part that sticks up above the rad about 1/4" where the fill port is located.


Unless you are against opening the fill cap, run the unit with the fill cap oriented up until the noise goes away. Then crack open the cap and top it off with distilled. Tilt the rad sideways and back to get every last bit of air out and top off again. Do this by filling it up so it nearly overflows and it "bulges" due to water surface tension, tilt the radiator sideways in all directions to see if you can get a bubble to come out. Repeat until all you have left is water bulging out of the reservoir. Then close it, making sure to catch any extra water.

shake it. If you don't hear any noise then you should be able to run it with the cap down.

I have it running cap side down I just need to top it off every 4 to 6 no depending on evap rates


----------



## criskoe

Seeing threads like " MY PUMP DIED AGAIN " on the swiftech forum keeps making me hesitant. And it has caused me to never fully submit my order but i constantly find it in my shopping cart.

I do notice that the product support seems to be top notch tho.

Heres the thing, I use my PC allot and I just dont want down times and lengthy RMA procedures, and shipping costs. ect. ect. And most importantly I dont want to regret the buy.

Id like to get a H320 and i plan to use it stock and unmodified for its life. Am i crazy to expect a maintenance free unit for the duration of its warranty? Or am i just dreaming? Is this possible with this unit? IS there anything I should be aware of this unit that isnt said on the website? Id really like to be able to just put it in my system and forget about it.

My current H100 has done me well over the last 2 years and havent had any issues. Can I expect the same from this product?

Can anyone say its been in their system untouched for as long as these things have been out? I realize that support forums generally are people with issues seeking help and usually definitely out number people that come to just say nice things about a product. So I thought the best place to ask would be the Owners Thread here









Thanks for any feed back


----------



## Luminouslight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethansdad*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm considering getting the Glacer 240L with the following components for a build
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4
> Asus z87-PLUS
> G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
> 
> Anyone using the same type of components?
> 
> I'm afraid that the memory will get in the way.
> 
> I see videos on youtube that say that I can offset the radiator a bit if installed it at the top of the R4. However, I'm concerned that this would negate the silent feature of the case (as there would be space left over).
> 
> Would I have to order sleeves to get the 8 pin connector on the Asus Z87-Plus?
> 
> Any other recommendations on a great silent case like the R4 for this build?
> 
> Any feedback would be appreciated.
> 
> Thank in advance.


I am currently in the process of assembling the R4. Just some warning if you are thinking about a 280mm in front. Even with the hard drive cages removed, it is really really tight. Make sure you can find a 280 radiator that isn't that tall. I did not have a fun time getting mine in.

I could give you an update when I mount my top radiator probably later today. I have a ST30 240mm with 25mm fans. I did the measurements and felt pretty confident I could fit it, but I'll see how it will fit in practice. My rig is in my sig.

With any midtower case, you'll likely need to offset the top rad (leaving open space). The Nanoxia's Chimney will conceal it, but I doubt it will muffle the noise much if you have a large amount of noise in the case.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Unless you are against opening the fill cap, run the unit with the fill cap oriented up until the noise goes away. Then crack open the cap and top it off with distilled. Tilt the rad sideways and back to get every last bit of air out and top off again. Do this by filling it up so it nearly overflows and it "bulges" due to water surface tension, tilt the radiator sideways in all directions to see if you can get a bubble to come out. Repeat until all you have left is water bulging out of the reservoir. Then close it, making sure to catch any extra water.
> 
> shake it. If you don't hear any noise then you should be able to run it with the cap down.
> 
> I have it running cap side down I just need to top it off every 4 to 6 no depending on evap rates


Thanks for the reply. I had done most of what you said already and I just can't seem to get rid of the flow-noise when in the upside down (or any other) orientation. I've ran it with the cap off and it still didn't require a top-off as it was basically near-overflowing already, even after hours of running without the cap. Adding more distilled would've just caused it to spill out when closing the cap. I also tilted side-to-side with the cap off and that didn't seem to help with the noise when upside down.

It's frustrating because in the upright position it's perfectly acceptable in terms of noise and there is no air trapped as far as I can tell. The second I move it from any position other than perfectly flat with the fill-port facing up, it starts making very loud flow-noises -- even if sideways, vertical etc.. there's only one way this thing will stay quiet -- perfectly flat w/ fill-port up.

Is yours running silent with no noises while upside down?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I had done most of what you said already and I just can't seem to get rid of the flow-noise when in the upside down (or any other) orientation. I've ran it with the cap off and it still didn't require a top-off as it was basically near-overflowing already, even after hours of running without the cap. Adding more distilled would've just caused it to spill out when closing the cap. I also tilted side-to-side with the cap off and that didn't seem to help with the noise when upside down.
> 
> It's frustrating because in the upright position it's perfectly acceptable in terms of noise and there is no air trapped as far as I can tell. The second I move it from any position other than perfectly flat with the fill-port facing up, it starts making very loud flow-noises -- even if sideways, vertical etc.. there's only one way this thing will stay quiet -- perfectly flat w/ fill-port up.
> 
> Is yours running silent with no noises while upside down?


its tricky, i'll agree. Took me a while to get all the bubbles out. I think it's actually more effective with it installed when you bleed, because you can vary the speeds with fan control which helps dislodge air. Also with a hot CPU running prime95 i was able to manipulate the heat to help get air out.

oldish Video of my rig:





it's not running full speed, but at full speed it's also free of water noise. I'm also using the original impeller design.

I could make another video with my method of bleeding my system. it's kind of a tedious process but luckily i only have to do it only a few times a year.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> its tricky, i'll agree. Took me a while to get all the bubbles out. I think it's actually more effective with it installed when you bleed, because you can vary the speeds with fan control which helps dislodge air. Also with a hot CPU running prime95 i was able to manipulate the heat to help get air out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> oldish Video of my rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's not running full speed, but at full speed it's also free of water noise. I'm also using the original impeller design.
> 
> I could make another video with my method of bleeding my system. it's kind of a tedious process but luckily i only have to do it only a few times a year.


Unfortunately I can't bleed this when installed in my case -- it just won't happen. The roof of my case prevents me from being able to access the fill-port when installed upright, not to mention it's massive (the case) and would be a huge PITA to try and rotate.

I've already had the H320 running and trying to bleed for an entire day -- I'll try for a little longer and if I still can't get it working I guess I'll have to revert to my trusty old Corsair H100i which has never given me any issues whatsoever. It's a shame, really... I'd like to be able to use the Swiftech but oh well... it's just temporary anyway until I gather the rest of the parts needed for my custom loop. I just hope NCIX will take it back otherwise I'm stuck with a big-ass paperweight.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Do you know if the block will fit a z9pe-d8 ws socket?

I might need a second block/pump thingie now heh


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Do you know if the block will fit a z9pe-d8 ws socket?
> 
> I might need a second block/pump thingie now heh


I've actually had a customer purchase this exact board and then had to return their H220 kit because the barbs fouled either the ram slots or interfered with the heat sinks. I have this board listed as being incompatible with this particular board for this reason. If you go to the product page for the H220, and go to the compatibility tab, you'll see this board listed as being incompatible. Sorry about that.


----------



## degenn

Wonder if it's possible to use the Aquaero 5 Pro to control the pump speed of H220/H320? Anyone attempted it?


----------



## jhatfie

I am so sad. My CM Glacer 240L was supposed to show up today from Newegg, but it appears it may have been stolen from my doorstep. FedEx shows it as delivered, however it is no where to be found.

Damn............................my Corsair Air 540 and new 4770k are so lonely.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Wonder if it's possible to use the Aquaero 5 Pro to control the pump speed of H220/H320? Anyone attempted it?


Of course it is possible, but only from fan channel 4 when it is setup as a pwm channel. I control MCP35X pumps that way


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Wonder if it's possible to use the Aquaero 5 Pro to control the pump speed of H220/H320? Anyone attempted it?
> 
> 
> 
> Of course it is possible, but only from fan channel 4 when it is setup as a pwm channel. I control MCP35X pumps that way
Click to expand...

or get the aquaero 6 and you can use any channel


----------



## timnswede

Hey guys, my Glacer 240l is coming tomorrow and I was wondering what kind of fans you guys would recommend for it. I was thinking of getting AP-15s, but if there are better fans for it I'll go for them.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> Hey guys, my Glacer 240l is coming tomorrow and I was wondering what kind of fans you guys would recommend for it. I was thinking of getting AP-15s, but if there are better fans for it I'll go for them.


The ones that come on it are great for the price point, but if you did like me and replaced everything (keeping only the pump), I put on some Corsairs I had. They work just great, but that's not what you asked, so I'll shut up.









Thanks - T


----------



## timnswede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> The ones that come on it are great for the price point, but if you did like me and replaced everything (keeping only the pump), I put on some Corsairs I had. They work just great, but that's not what you asked, so I'll shut up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


I was more worried about the sound of the stock fans. I believe it is the same fan as the one on my 212 evo, and that thing gets rather loud at full speed. I do have three Cougar CF-V12HB fans laying around, but I couldn't find much info about people using them on radiators. Plus this is my first time water cooling so all I really know is that I need/want fans with high static pressure.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> I was more worried about the sound of the stock fans. I believe it is the same fan as the one on my 212 evo, and that thing gets rather loud at full speed. I do have three Cougar CF-V12HB fans laying around, but I couldn't find much info about people using them on radiators. Plus this is my first time water cooling so all I really know is that I need/want fans with high static pressure.


It's definitely loud at full rpm, but you don't really need to spin them at more than 1000rpm really.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criskoe*
> 
> Seeing threads like " MY PUMP DIED AGAIN " on the swiftech forum keeps making me hesitant. And it has caused me to never fully submit my order but i constantly find it in my shopping cart.
> 
> I do notice that the product support seems to be top notch tho.
> 
> Heres the thing, I use my PC allot and I just dont want down times and lengthy RMA procedures, and shipping costs. ect. ect. And most importantly I dont want to regret the buy.
> 
> Id like to get a H320 and i plan to use it stock and unmodified for its life. Am i crazy to expect a maintenance free unit for the duration of its warranty? Or am i just dreaming? Is this possible with this unit? IS there anything I should be aware of this unit that isnt said on the website? Id really like to be able to just put it in my system and forget about it.
> 
> My current H100 has done me well over the last 2 years and havent had any issues. Can I expect the same from this product?
> 
> Can anyone say its been in their system untouched for as long as these things have been out? I realize that support forums generally are people with issues seeking help and usually definitely out number people that come to just say nice things about a product. So I thought the best place to ask would be the Owners Thread here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any feed back


i have had the h320 in my system since it was available in the uk--probably 5 or 6 months now

never had to touch it once and never had a single issue with it even though i mounted it vertically rather than horizontally

upgraded from an h80 and dont regret it for a second


----------



## criznit

Received my H320 today! I'm holding off until this weekend to install it.


----------



## Theroty

Add me to the list. Here is my h220 in my Air 540. I hear some water sloshing with the pump at high rpms. Not sure if it is normal or if it needs to be bled any. Here is a pic!


----------



## extreme-oc

Hello guys.... After 6 months of use my H220 manifests a strange and annoying problem.

I have a 4770k OC at 4.6 frequency. The fan speed in the bios I've always held to the highest...and never any problem: the H220 it was quiet enough.

Now, suddenly, without having touched nothing: the H220 makes a loud noise as soon as the PC starts: this buzz disappears only after you have started a CPU-stress test: then when the rpm of the H220 increase.

Any help?

Thanks.


----------



## Dudewitbow

biggest scare of the month. temps started climbing, but CPU fan was still giving an RPM. manually shut down at 90 degrees. turns out that there was a large air bubble in the pump. promptly fixed it, back at 20.(I noticed that i tried to get a tiny bubble from my res to my pump, it wouldn't suck it up, but the unit still was making noise and a rpm still existed, so something was goingup)


----------



## ivanlabrie

Can I run a second pump if my main pump is down and just use the block as a cpu block?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Can I run a second pump if my main pump is down and just use the block as a cpu block?


Yes, that shouldn't be an issue. What pump are you planning to use so that I can assist you with setting it up?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Big changes coming for my rig!

New 29" ultra-wide monitor, running off my new R9 270X....

New 4770K w/ my 240L block / pump and custom setup, acrylic tubing, and RAM block coming!

My S3 (Surf-N-Turf / The Unknown Soldier) will be getting a facelift!!!

Thanks - T


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that shouldn't be an issue. What pump are you planning to use so that I can assist you with setting it up?


mcp655 and a dedicated reservoir.

Think I should just remove the impeller from my pump?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Big changes coming for my rig!
> 
> New 29" ultra-wide monitor, running off my new R9 270X....
> 
> New 4770K w/ my 240L block / pump and custom setup, acrylic tubing, and RAM block coming!
> 
> My S3 (Surf-N-Turf / The Unknown Soldier) will be getting a facelift!!!
> 
> Thanks - T


Very nice, but change that gpu


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> mcp655 and a dedicated reservoir.
> 
> Think I should just remove the impeller from my pump?
> Very nice, but change that gpu


Yes, just remove the impeller from your pump to facilitate better flow due to less restriction. That should work fine. Be aware though that the MCP655 has larger barbs than the tubing and therefore it will be difficult to get the tubing over it. As long as you have it sitting below the reservoir/ radiator you should be fine.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Very nice, but change that gpu


But, but... I just bought it!









It's only going to have to run the 29" @ 1080p.
I'm not a UHD freak like some....

Plus this is a MITX system, so I'll do an R9 290X eventually, and wa'cool it.

The 240L should be able to push RES + RAD + CPU + RAM + GPU, right?









Thanks - T


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, just remove the impeller from your pump to facilitate better flow due to less restriction. That should work fine. Be aware though that the MCP655 has larger barbs than the tubing and therefore it will be difficult to get the tubing over it. As long as you have it sitting below the reservoir/ radiator you should be fine.


What do you mean below?

I'll probable have the pump and res sit at the bottom of the case, or near the rear exhaust fan port at the top/back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> But, but... I just bought it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's only going to have to run the 29" @ 1080p.
> I'm not a UHD freak like some....
> 
> Plus this is a MITX system, so I'll do an R9 290X eventually, and wa'cool it.
> 
> The 240L should be able to push RES + RAD + CPU + RAM + GPU, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - T


Oh so many waterblocks, dat restriction!

I'd do cpu+gpu but it's pushing it...you need a bare minimum of 120mm rad space per component, but it's gonna be noisy.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> What do you mean below?
> 
> I'll probable have the pump and res sit at the bottom of the case, or near the rear exhaust fan port at the top/back.
> Oh so many waterblocks, dat restriction!
> 
> I'd do cpu+gpu but it's pushing it...you need a bare minimum of 120mm rad space per component, but it's gonna be noisy.


I just mean that you want the pump located below the reservoir so that it's gravity fed. This will prevent it from sucking in air and help to make the bleeding process easier as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that shouldn't be an issue. What pump are you planning to use so that I can assist you with setting it up?
> 
> 
> 
> mcp655 and a dedicated reservoir.
> 
> Think I should just remove the impeller from my pump?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Big changes coming for my rig!
> 
> New 29" ultra-wide monitor, running off my new R9 270X....
> 
> New 4770K w/ my 240L block / pump and custom setup, acrylic tubing, and RAM block coming!
> 
> My S3 (Surf-N-Turf / The Unknown Soldier) will be getting a facelift!!!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very nice, but change that gpu
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> mcp655 and a dedicated reservoir.
> 
> Think I should just remove the impeller from my pump?
> Very nice, but change that gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, just remove the impeller from your pump to facilitate better flow due to less restriction. That should work fine. Be aware though that the MCP655 has larger barbs than the tubing and therefore it will be difficult to get the tubing over it. As long as you have it sitting below the reservoir/ radiator you should be fine.
Click to expand...

you really dont need to, it has been proven time and time again that pump impellers not spinning provide little to no flow resistance


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I just mean that you want the pump located below the reservoir so that it's gravity fed. This will prevent it from sucking in air and help to make the bleeding process easier as well.


Gotcha, I already knew that, thanks to your insights before...I'm getting the pump/res this weekend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you really dont need to, it has been proven time and time again that pump impellers not spinning provide little to no flow resistance


Good to know, I'll just slap that pump and res there and get back to 4.65ghz. 1.2ghz on one core gets old, FAST.


----------



## Theroty

So, when I disable fan control and speed the pump up to its max I hear tons of water trickling and movement. It is pretty loud for a second or two and then it stops. After that you hear an occasional trickle but mostly all your hear up close is a slight buzz of the pump and a slight trickle. Should I look into taking it back out and taking the cap out to bleed it?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Oh so many waterblocks, dat restriction!
> 
> I'd do cpu+gpu but it's pushing it...you need a bare minimum of 120mm rad space per component, but it's gonna be noisy.


Reason for having a 270X right now is to replace the 7870 that's doing duty currently, and give me a hair better frames in BF4, while not requiring a reroute.

FYI, all perspective 240L buyers:

Pump / block has been FLAWLESS for two solid months so far!

Thanks - T


----------



## eXecuution

A warning to people with a H320 and the HAF X: You cannot do push configuration with the H320 even if you are willing to sacrifice your 200mm fans. It just won't fit. So i'm stuck doing pull at the moment. Oh well. Doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. The H320 is quiet as hell though!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> A warning to people with a H320 and the HAF X: You cannot do push configuration with the H320 even if you are willing to sacrifice your 200mm fans. It just won't fit. So i'm stuck doing pull at the moment. Oh well. Doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. The H320 is quiet as hell though!


Can you post a picture as to why it won't fit? I find that quite strange because I've owned this case and I find it surprising that there isn't room for it to fit in a push configuration.


----------



## eXecuution

The addition of the reservoir makes the rad just a tiny bit longer than the holes in the top of the case, causing the screw holes on the case to not line up with those on the radiator. With the fans in "pull", though, the reservoir doesn't have to worry about that, as the fans are taller than the res.

I have the H320 all set up and don't really want to disassemble it after getting it set up after a loooong time yesterday so... godawful MS paint skills... GO!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> The addition of the reservoir makes the rad just a tiny bit longer than the holes in the top of the case, causing the screw holes on the case to not line up with those on the radiator. With the fans in "pull", though, the reservoir doesn't have to worry about that, as the fans are taller than the res.
> 
> I have the H320 all set up and don't really want to disassemble it after getting it set up after a loooong time yesterday so... godawful MS paint skills... GO!


OK, I see why you're having issues. The fan holes in the HAF X don't allow space for the reservoir and that's why it's not fitting properly. Gotcha, and thanks for including the diagram.


----------



## eXecuution

You got it. Diagram was best I could do on my crappy laptop's touchpad haha

Pic of the H320 from my build log


----------



## Theroty

Any advice on my situation?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Any advice on my situation?


Sorry, I must have missed your post. Have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## Theroty

I have for sure had it above the pump a lot with it running at full speed. I will pull the radiator out tonight and move it around some more while I move the case a bit. I have not tried the pinch trick yet. I will also get some distilled water so I can top it off if I need too because it does sound like it has quite a bit of room left in there. Would you like to see a video of the pump speeding up? This is my first dab in water cooling and I just want to get it right because I eventually plan on expanding and would love to do some acrylic tubes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> I have for sure had it above the pump a lot with it running at full speed. I will pull the radiator out tonight and move it around some more while I move the case a bit. I have not tried the pinch trick yet. I will also get some distilled water so I can top it off if I need too because it does sound like it has quite a bit of room left in there. Would you like to see a video of the pump speeding up? This is my first dab in water cooling and I just want to get it right because I eventually plan on expanding and would love to do some acrylic tubes.


If the noise doesn't go away after trying the instructions in the OP then yes, post a video of the noise you're still getting.


----------



## Reptar

I had the pump noise back in June, but I was able to fix it using the instructions in the OP. A month later the pump shorted and I RMA'd it and got a brand new H220. Two days ago noticed that my PC sounded noisier, and after investigating I found it to be my pump, the same noise everyone else has. I tried the instructions in the OP, but now instead of just the buzzing, I suddenly have a constant gurgling noise, sounding like water going through the pump. I don't know how to address it, I tried everything that has been suggested.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> I had the pump noise back in June, but I was able to fix it using the instructions in the OP. A month later the pump shorted and I RMA'd it and got a brand new H220. Two days ago noticed that my PC sounded noisier, and after investigating I found it to be my pump, the same noise everyone else has. I tried the instructions in the OP, but now instead of just the buzzing, I suddenly have a constant gurgling noise, sounding like water going through the pump. I don't know how to address it, I tried everything that has been suggested.


Sounds like my pump with a bad impeller...post a recording here.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> A warning to people with a H320 and the HAF X: You cannot do push configuration with the H320 even if you are willing to sacrifice your 200mm fans. It just won't fit. So i'm stuck doing pull at the moment. Oh well. Doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. The H320 is quiet as hell though!


You be able to do push/pull on a H320 in the HAF X. The rad itself need to be mounted directly to the case. The fill port facing up and towards the rear. The gap there should fit through, if not shave off a bit to slide in.
Also make sure the pump tubing is up, and the logo towards the lower right. That way you have more leeway.


----------



## Theroty

So, I think I may have resolved the issue. The coolant was a bit lower than I thought It would be honestly. I moved the unit to the top tilted the case around and shook the rad like I did a few days ago. Then I removed the fill cap and used a small funnel to top it off. It did not take much at all to top it off but now its right under the cap for sure. The noise seems to have disappeared for the moment. I ran the unit without the fans for a few mins so I can move it around freely and man did it start heating up fast.. LOL! I turned off before I filled it up and then put the cap back on and put the fans back on it. It is currently running full speed on top to be sure no leaks and etc.


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You be able to do push/pull on a H320 in the HAF X. The rad itself need to be mounted directly to the case. The fill port facing up and towards the rear. The gap there should fit through, if not shave off a bit to slide in.
> Also make sure the pump tubing is up, and the logo towards the lower right. That way you have more leeway.


I wanted to do just push, but unfortunately I cannot.
I know that, theoretically, I should be able to do push/pull, but my motherboard has a heat sink above the CPU socket that is tall enough to prevent fans from being mounted there, locking me in Push _or_ Pull only configurations. I can't do push/pull. And because the rad can't mount directly to the case because of the reservoir, I can't do push only. So that leaves me with pull.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> I wanted to do just push, but unfortunately I cannot.
> I know that, theoretically, I should be able to do push/pull, but my motherboard has a heat sink above the CPU socket that is tall enough to prevent fans from being mounted there, locking me in Push _or_ Pull only configurations. I can't do push/pull. And because the rad can't mount directly to the case because of the reservoir, I can't do push only. So that leaves me with pull.


You have the clearance. Rad+fans = 54mm. H220 in there in push fits without problems.
The fan gets mount under the rad for push and mount the rad to the case. Above where the 200mm is where you mount the other 120mm fans to the case/rad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You be able to do push/pull on a H320 in the HAF X. The rad itself need to be mounted directly to the case. The fill port facing up and towards the rear. The gap there should fit through, if not shave off a bit to slide in.
> Also make sure the pump tubing is up, and the logo towards the lower right. That way you have more leeway.
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to do just push, but unfortunately I cannot.
> I know that, theoretically, I should be able to do push/pull, but my motherboard has a heat sink above the CPU socket that is tall enough to prevent fans from being mounted there, locking me in Push _or_ Pull only configurations. I can't do push/pull. And because the rad can't mount directly to the case because of the reservoir, I can't do push only. So that leaves me with pull.
Click to expand...

idky everyone is stuck on push pull... you dont need it on thin rads, buy good rad fans and you will be fine


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You have the clearance. Rad+fans = 54mm. H220 in there in push fits without problems.
> The fan gets mount under the rad for push and mount the rad to the case. Above where the 200mm is where you mount the other 120mm fans to the case/rad.


No I don't. As I said in my previous post, my motherboard has a heat sink that juts out that just barely prevents me from mounting push/pull over it. Yes, H220 would fit without a problem. But the H320 does not because of the position of the reservoir. Trust me, I tried mounting the H320 in push. Didn't work.

Mega - I would like push/pull because of the couple extra degrees celsius it helps me eek out of the cooler while maintaining the same noise levels, and I also hate the aesthetic of a bare radiator facing into the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Yes it will fit in push. I have mounted many rads in the HAF X over the years. H220 is the same as H320. Same placement of the res when mounting and facing the rear.
Here is the HAF X with an H220 in push/pull

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/4550_50#post_20346286

Here is the H220 with fans on bottom. There is lots of room to fit.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/2400_50#post_19900255

Corsair H100 is 27mm thick rad, H320 is 29mm. This is is P/P inside.


----------



## eXecuution

Even if you've mounted many rads, have you actually tried to mount the H320 itself? I did. it _does not fit_ in push configuration. The screw holes are a few mm misaligned. A 360mm WITHOUT an attached reservoir would fit just fine and have no issues.

I know you can use push/pull - I had my 4x cougar vortexes in push/pull on my H100. But that was with my old motherboard. Again, I'm not blaming the case - I'm blaming the motherboard I currently use. Large heat sink gets in the way of fan mounting and prevents push/pull. I tried using push/pull on my new motherboard with my H100 - it did not work. Heat sink on the motherboard got in the way, so I had to take the top two fans off.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> A 360mm WITHOUT an attached reservoir would fit just fine and have no issues.


That makes no sense. H320 mounting is no different than H220 with the res facing the rear like I said.
I have mounted the MCR-X20, which has a res on the rad. Had to do some cutting to slide the res through. Used some gaskets in between the rad/case and case/fan to have a better seal.
I think you are not understanding how to mount the H320 in your case. You didnt look at the 2 posts I linked.

As you see this is the HAF X. Blue/Red is the H220 size. Add the green it is the H320. Both use the same mounting holes which is Yellow. The rad needs to be mounted to the case.


----------



## SouthernStyle

He is saying his MB is causing his mounting issues, nothing to do with the case.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> A 360mm WITHOUT an attached reservoir would fit just fine and have no issues.
> 
> 
> 
> That makes no sense. H320 mounting is no different than H220 with the res facing the rear like I said.
> I have mounted the MCR-X20, which has a res on the rad. Had to do some cutting to slide the res through. Used some gaskets in between the rad/case and case/fan to have a better seal.
> I think you are not understanding how to mount the H320 in your case. You didnt look at the 2 posts I linked.
> 
> As you see this is the HAF X. Blue/Red is the H220 size. Add the green it is the H320. Both use the same mounting holes which is Yellow. The rad needs to be mounted to the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Dude look at his motherboard, the heatsink sticks out above the motherboard PCB!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it will fit in push. I have mounted many rads in the HAF X over the years. H220 is the same as H320. Same placement of the res when mounting and facing the rear.
> Here is the HAF X with an H220 in push/pull
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/4550_50#post_20346286
> 
> Here is the H220 with fans on bottom. There is lots of room to fit.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/2400_50#post_19900255
> 
> Corsair H100 is 27mm thick rad, H320 is 29mm. This is is P/P inside.


That isn't your H100 in your pc is it?

Why on earth would you push air out of the case over the radiator?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> That isn't your H100 in your pc is it?
> 
> Why on earth would you push air out of the case over the radiator?


In a case like the HAF X you can get away with it because of all of the cool air being brought in from the front and side fans. I know this because I've done the same thing in my own HAF X. When I put the top rad fans as intake rather than exhaust it made absolutely no difference and just made the radiator get dusty quicker.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Dude look at his motherboard, the heatsink sticks out above the motherboard PCB!


Yes I know his board. What I'm saying is that he do not have 55mm of clearance from top of case to the heatsink? I really doubt that heatsink goes that far to take up space. From what I remember I think there is about 78mm from top of case to edge of mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> That isn't your H100 in your pc is it?
> Why on earth would you push air out of the case over the radiator?


This was just an example used to show the room.

If you go to this post and look at the links you can see how to mount the H220/H320 to get push/pull.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-owners-club/8200_50#post_21427136


----------



## CM MR HAF

Honest question, how many would like to see the improved Glacer 360 and would want to purchase it in North Americas? This will have the Glacer features as well as some added tweaks from CM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What kind of tweaks? I know many will want a 360 version in the US.


----------



## criskoe

I'd love a no fuss. No matinence. 360 aio unit. I don't want to have to worry about air bubbles and topping fluid off. Just put it in there and forget about it for at least 2 years.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Honest question, how many would like to see the improved Glacer 360 and would want to purchase it in North Americas? This will have the Glacer features as well as some added tweaks from CM.


Thumbs up


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criskoe*
> 
> I'd love a no fuss. No matinence. 360 aio unit. I don't want to have to worry about air bubbles and topping fluid off. Just put it in there and forget about it for at least 2 years.


Will be same as H320. Just like the 240L as the H220. With slight difference.


----------



## criskoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Will be same as H320. Just like the 240L as the H220. With slight difference.


Well that sucks.... I want to make the jump from my h100 but i also dont want hassles.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Honest question, how many would like to see the improved Glacer 360 and would want to purchase it in North Americas? This will have the Glacer features as well as some added tweaks from CM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Honest question, how many would like to see the improved Glacer 360 and would want to purchase it in North Americas? This will have the Glacer features as well as some added tweaks from CM.
> 
> 
> 
> Thumbs up
Click to expand...

yes, we would, plus it would piss off aseteck ( spelling ) which .... well i am all for making patent trolls mad


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, we would, plus it would piss off aseteck ( spelling ) which .... well i am all for making patent trolls mad


Just start calling them 'Asstek' and that'll be easier to remember.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> I wanted to do just push, but unfortunately I cannot.
> I know that, theoretically, I should be able to do push/pull, *but my motherboard has a heat sink above the CPU socket that is tall enough to prevent fans from being mounted there,* locking me in Push _or_ Pull only configurations.


Can you take the offending heat-sink off the motherboard and mill 3-4 mm off of it so you have clearance?

ETA; I have a question on best routing when expanding my 240l. I currently have a 240l with a EK VRM/NB block. I'm adding a reservoir and flow meter. I'm thinking res to pump to nb block, to flow meter then to rad. As long as the pump is the first item in the line it shouldn't make a lot of difference with the flow.

Second question, pump inlet-outlet, looking at the pump and the CM logo what side in inlet and what side is outlet?

How many amps does the 240l pump draw?


----------



## RnRollie

As far as i know the INlet is on the left side, as long as you put the Res before the pump, you'll probably be fine






But... i'm not sure if the little pump can overcome all the restriction of Rad, NB/VRM, RES, FlowMeter... it probably will, but i wouldn't add too much more


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, we would, plus it would piss off aseteck ( spelling ) which .... well i am all for making patent trolls mad


I second that motion


----------



## criznit

I finally installed my H320 and I'm loving it so far! it's very quiet! What software should I use to control the fans and pump?


----------



## Mega Man

any one you want !!!


----------



## rack04

I use SpeedFan since my mobo doesn't have the option to set fan profiles.


----------



## 66racer

Does anyone have pictures of their cooler installed sidways? I have 4 sticks of dominator gt memory and a maximus iv genez so already know it wont fit in the standard mounting orientation. Im just nervous about how close to the gpu the hose outlet will be. If memory wasnt so expensive right now I would just consider a memory upgrade but gez they have been high.

Thanks!


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of their cooler installed sidways? I have 4 sticks of dominator gt memory and a maximus iv genez so already know it wont fit in the standard mounting orientation. Im just nervous about how close to the gpu the hose outlet will be. If memory wasnt so expensive right now I would just consider a memory upgrade but gez they have been high.
> 
> Thanks!


Do you mean like this?


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of their cooler installed sidways? I have 4 sticks of dominator gt memory and a maximus iv genez so already know it wont fit in the standard mounting orientation. Im just nervous about how close to the gpu the hose outlet will be. If memory wasnt so expensive right now I would just consider a memory upgrade but gez they have been high.
> 
> Thanks!


The pump you mean? Sure here


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> The pump you mean? Sure here


Love that tubing, very clean!


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Can I join?



I want to shorten the tubing sometime, but overall I am very happy with it.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Love that tubing, very clean!


Thanks buddy! Its the Primochill elegant white. I really thought it came out nice also


----------



## jhatfie

Got my Glacer 240L hooked this weekend. Very pleased thus far. Just getting my initial testing done, but has thus far kept my 4770k (4.6Ghz) @1.3v under 76C for absolute peak temps running Aida64. Need to do some fine tuning on the 4770k still as it is not 100% stable yet, fails stress test after a couple hours.

http://s911.photobucket.com/user/jhatfie/media/shared/IMG_20131221_212926_zps6og45nh2.jpg.html


----------



## 66racer

Thanks guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> The pump you mean? Sure here


Thanks, do you know if the mobo heatsink clearance and pci lane clearance is the same on the maximus iv genez gen3? Im sure it will fit but would hate to have an issue.

Gonna have some play money and am undecided between a cooling upgrade or gtx780 (and sell the 770)...been wanting the cm glacier 240L Since launch but would be fun playing with a new gpu. Neither is really a necessity...decisions.


----------



## selk22

Those are the best kind of decisions









As far as the PCI clearance.. I think you will be fine looking at the board I don't see anything to worry about. The clearance from the top heatsink I would be a little worried about but I will let some others who have experience chime in!


----------



## criznit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> any one you want !!!


Ok I'm an idiot, but also impressed lol. I've been controlling the fans all this time and I didn't realize it due to how quiet they are. I did a few prime test at 4.5 and didn't go over 68C after an hour of testing. I will see how far I can push it next weekend after school and the holidays and provide screenshots and what not


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criznit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> any one you want !!!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm an idiot, but also impressed lol. I've been controlling the fans all this time and I didn't realize it due to how quiet they are. I did a few prime test at 4.5 and didn't go over 68C after an hour of testing. I will see how far I can push it next weekend after school and the holidays and provide screenshots and what not
Click to expand...

hehe glad you got it taken care of !


----------



## wallawallaman

IMG_3772.JPG 1559k .JPG file


IMG_3773.JPG 1507k .JPG file


IMG_3775.JPG 1600k .JPG file


IMG_3776.JPG 1546k .JPG file


IMG_3774.JPG 1519k .JPG file


Hiya-

I have owned a Swiftech H220 since around July, and while the performance was great, allowing for easy 4.8 -5.0 ghz overclocks, I had it take a **** today, and decide to light on fire where the cable met the pump, seemingly fry both the pump and the power cord (fan connector). What kind of crap quality wiring allows an electrical fire in 6 months? It was not attached to a fan controller, it just ran from the mobo to the pump at 100% for 3 hours a day. Luckily, my CPU seems to be fine, but I don't know about the motherboard. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I would also love to hear the swiftech's rep explanation for such a drastic failure. My house could have burned down because of this ****.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wallawallaman*
> 
> IMG_3772.JPG 1559k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3773.JPG 1507k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3775.JPG 1600k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3776.JPG 1546k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3774.JPG 1519k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Hiya-
> 
> I have owned a Swiftech H220 since around July, and while the performance was great, allowing for easy 4.8 -5.0 ghz overclocks, I had it take a **** today, and decide to light on fire where the cable met the pump, seemingly fry both the pump and the power cord (fan connector). What kind of crap quality wiring allows an electrical fire in 6 months? It was not attached to a fan controller, it just ran from the mobo to the pump at 100% for 3 hours a day. Luckily, my CPU seems to be fine, but I don't know about the motherboard. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I would also love to hear the swiftech's rep explanation for such a drastic failure. My house could have burned down because of this ****.


I'm very sorry about this and PM me so that I can help you get the kit replaced.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wallawallaman*
> 
> IMG_3772.JPG 1559k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3773.JPG 1507k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3775.JPG 1600k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3776.JPG 1546k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_3774.JPG 1519k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Hiya-
> 
> I have owned a Swiftech H220 since around July, and while the performance was great, allowing for easy 4.8 -5.0 ghz overclocks, I had it take a **** today, and decide to light on fire where the cable met the pump, seemingly fry both the pump and the power cord (fan connector). What kind of crap quality wiring allows an electrical fire in 6 months? It was not attached to a fan controller, it just ran from the mobo to the pump at 100% for 3 hours a day. Luckily, my CPU seems to be fine, but I don't know about the motherboard. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I would also love to hear the swiftech's rep explanation for such a drastic failure. My house could have burned down because of this ****.


i love how people always try and blame the product, every single time, which although it could of been, even in my noob years and using the cheapest extensions possible, i have never, ever , ever seen a fire in my pc, and i have done some extremely stupid things


----------



## wallawallaman

0 extentions, 0 fan controllers, 0 power increases, I would love to know what I did to cause this, as I can't figure it out. I did not have my deltas driven off this, they were off the PSU directly, and again, the unit worked fine for 6 months. I really would like to know what it is you think I did, because I can't figure it out. I know those pumps are beefier that anything corsair has, but I would think that if the melting was in the plug end, it would have been a crappy fan plug from ASrock, and not Swiftech's wiring. What could I have done user error wise that could have resorted in fire? Especially user error that only leads to fire 6 months down the line?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i love how people always try and blame the product, every single time, which although it could of been, even in my noob years and using the cheapest extensions possible, i have never, ever , ever seen a fire in my pc, and i have done some extremely stupid things


It happened to a friend of mine as well a couple months back. I have seen the damage and his room still smells like the plastic burning 2 months later.


----------



## wallawallaman

Hopefully the rest of the PC lived? I'm worried about the effect no cooling had on my CPU-mobo for the 5 minutes or so that it was on when I was trying to find the source of the smoke.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i love how people always try and blame the product, every single time, *which although it could of been*, even in my noob years and using the cheapest extensions possible, i have never, ever , ever seen a fire in my pc, and i have done some extremely stupid things


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wallawallaman*
> 
> 0 extentions, 0 fan controllers, 0 power increases, I would love to know what I did to cause this, as I can't figure it out. I did not have my deltas driven off this, they were off the PSU directly, and again, the unit worked fine for 6 months. I really would like to know what it is you think I did, because I can't figure it out. I know those pumps are beefier that anything corsair has, but I would think that if the melting was in the plug end, it would have been a crappy fan plug from ASrock, and not Swiftech's wiring. What could I have done user error wise that could have resorted in fire? Especially user error that only leads to fire 6 months down the line?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wallawallaman*
> 
> Hopefully the rest of the PC lived? I'm worried about the effect no cooling had on my CPU-mobo for the 5 minutes or so that it was on when I was trying to find the source of the smoke.


----------



## Webrider99

Add me !








Got an H320


----------



## vicbdn

nvm


----------



## Yvese

I know this has been asked a lot of times but I don't want to go through all these pages









What temp differences have people seen by switching the stock H220 fans with NF-F12s? Also, what fan config do you guys use? I have my radiator at the top of my case with the fans blowing air IN from the top. I figure since I'm on a CF setup which generates a bit of heat and hot air rising, it wouldn't make sense to have the radiator fans pushing that hot air through it.


----------



## criznit

I think my pump died or something. Fan1 is reporting 0 rpm and my temps shot up to 66-70C during idle and I hear water... what is going on?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criznit*
> 
> I think my pump died or something. Fan1 is reporting 0 rpm and my temps shot up to 66-70C during idle and I hear water... what is going on?


If you hear water then the pump is likely still operating and you probably just have an air pocket that's impeding the performance of your kit. Try the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump to see if that resolves your issue.


----------



## timnswede

Does it matter if I mount the 240L on the bottom or top of my case?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> Does it matter if I mount the 240L on the bottom or top of my case?


No, it doesn't matter. Just be sure that which ever way you intend to install it that the reservoir fill-port cap is facing up. This helps prevent the pump from pulling air into it.


----------



## timnswede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it doesn't matter. Just be sure that which ever way you intend to install it that the reservoir fill-port cap is facing up. This helps prevent the pump from pulling air into it.


How would I face the reservoir fill-port cap up if I wanted to install it on the top? Then my only option would be pulling air from outside the case in, which would make everything else in there warmer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it doesn't matter. Just be sure that which ever way you intend to install it that the reservoir fill-port cap is facing up. This helps prevent the pump from pulling air into it.
> 
> 
> 
> How would I face the reservoir fill-port cap up if I wanted to install it on the top? Then my only option would be pulling air from outside the case in, which would make everything else in there warmer.
Click to expand...

if that is your worry, you know you can turn the fans around ?, with that said it is most recommended to pull air into the case


----------



## timnswede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if that is your worry, you know you can turn the fans around ?, with that said it is most recommended to pull air into the case


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it doesn't matter. Just be sure that which ever way you intend to install it that the reservoir fill-port cap is facing up. This helps prevent the pump from pulling air into it.


Well what I meant was that I wanted to push air through the rad if it was on top, so I would want to put the fans on the bottom, but the reservoir sticks up above the rad, so that wouldn't really work. Unless I am doing this wrong, this is my first time watercooling.


----------



## Mega Man

unscrew the fans and turn them around


----------



## criznit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you hear water then the pump is likely still operating and you probably just have an air pocket that's impeding the performance of your kit. Try the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump to see if that resolves your issue.


I will try this when I get home. Thx!


----------



## timnswede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unscrew the fans and turn them around




This is jhatfie's photo. Wouldn't having the radiator like that make my only option be having the fans as intakes, which in turn would make the inside of my case warmer and also mess up my airflow? If I had them as exhaust wouldn't there be barely any air moving through the rad?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unscrew the fans and turn them around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is jhatfie's photo. Wouldn't having the radiator like that make my only option be having the fans as intakes, which in turn would make the inside of my case warmer and also mess up my airflow? If I had them as exhaust wouldn't there be barely any air moving through the rad?
Click to expand...

the fans can be used as intake or exhaust even with the res on top, you just turn them around, and no it wount make your case super hot, it would make it warmer


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the fans can be used as intake or exhaust even with the res on top, you just turn them around, and no it wount make your case super hot, it would make it warmer


If you upgrade your fans this shouldnt be an issue, I always strive toward good positive airflow.

Has anyone here used a dual bay res with there H220/Glacier?

I know It's recomended to have the pump below the res. and I guess technically It would be, somewhat but not much. I want to get a block for my gtx780 classified and was thinking about getting something
like this or the swiftech maelstrom:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the fans can be used as intake or exhaust even with the res on top, you just turn them around, and no it wount make your case super hot, it would make it warmer
> 
> 
> 
> If you upgrade your fans this shouldnt be an issue, I always strive toward good positive airflow.
> 
> Has anyone here used a dual bay res with there H220/Glacier?
> 
> I know It's recomended to have the pump below the res. and I guess technically It would be, somewhat but not much. I want to get a block for my gtx780 classified and was thinking about getting something
> like this or the swiftech maelstrom:
Click to expand...

it would be fine


----------



## sdmf74

Do you think I need to add another 240 rad. as well (for cpu and 1 gpu) My gtx780 is overvolted


----------



## Mega Man

i personally would recommend it, but that does not mean you have to


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> I know this has been asked a lot of times but I don't want to go through all these pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temp differences have people seen by switching the stock H220 fans with NF-F12s? Also, what fan config do you guys use? I have my radiator at the top of my case with the fans blowing air IN from the top. I figure since I'm on a CF setup which generates a bit of heat and hot air rising, it wouldn't make sense to have the radiator fans pushing that hot air through it.


I think those are the fans Linus uses...check Linus tech tips for his h220 review to see


----------



## 66racer

Well I just ordered my swiftech h220! Thanks to ncix usa! They are on sale guys for $99

While I personally think the cm pump cover looks a little nicer, I'm very excited to have swiftech customer support. It seems like swiftech is the evga of cooling solutions as far as customer service goes from the rep activity in here.

Now while I will likely just move the antec kuhler 920 to my GPU (180mm rad) and replace the noisy h70, I can't help but start shopping for either a universal block or full block for my 770


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Add me !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got an H320


Are you going to upgrade the fans?


----------



## timnswede

So I got the glacer 240l installed on my 4770k. At stock speeds the temps seem to average around 50 degrees and maxing at upper 50s. Are these temps OK? Not really sure what temperatures I should be expecting at stock. Oh forgot to say that I am using aida64.


----------



## Webrider99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Are you going to upgrade the fans?


Me ? Yes eventually, It's between performance or looks right now. So either Noctua's or Gelid Wings ... one of the two, I know the gelids won't perform as well but they look much nicer in the build I'm doing. Check out my build log if you wanna follow what I'm doing


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> So I got the glacer 240l installed on my 4770k. At stock speeds the temps seem to average around 50 degrees and maxing at upper 50s. Are these temps OK? Not really sure what temperatures I should be expecting at stock. Oh forgot to say that I am using aida64.


its fine, my delidded 3770k loaded at ~50c at stock clocks and touched voltage to like 1.3x(cant remember exactally. havent had the time to clock it yet. then again, i do have an extra 120mm rad on my loop and running pure distilled


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> He is saying his MB is causing his mounting issues, nothing to do with the case.


That is mostly correct. It isn't causing all my mounting issues, but it is causing one. The MB is only preventing me from mounting push/pull. Yes, sp33d, the heat sink is just that big. It sticks out that far that it prevents the mounting of a second row of fans. If the heatsink were a couple millimeters lower, I would be able to mount the extra fans. But as it is, I can only use one set of fans on both my H320 and my H100. I'm not really complaining though.

And yeah, madcrate, i could, but that would kill the warranty on the motherboard and I'd rather have that then the few degrees in temps extra from push/pull

I'll see if, when I get back from break, I can show you guys what I mean how the H320 rad can't attach directly to the case with the HAF X


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well I just ordered my swiftech h220! Thanks to ncix usa! They are on sale guys for $99
> 
> While I personally think the cm pump cover looks a little nicer, I'm very excited to have swiftech customer support. It seems like swiftech is the evga of cooling solutions as far as customer service goes from the rep activity in here.
> 
> Now while I will likely just move the antec kuhler 920 to my GPU (180mm rad) and replace the noisy h70, I can't help but start shopping for either a universal block or full block for my 770


welcome @!

ironically swiftech makes evga blocks [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Add me !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got an H320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to upgrade the fans?
Click to expand...

welcome and merry christmas everyone [email protected]


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wallawallaman*
> 
> 0 extentions, 0 fan controllers, 0 power increases, I would love to know what I did to cause this, as I can't figure it out. I did not have my deltas driven off this, they were off the PSU directly, and again, the unit worked fine for 6 months. I really would like to know what it is you think I did, because I can't figure it out. I know those pumps are beefier that anything corsair has, but I would think that if the melting was in the plug end, it would have been a crappy fan plug from ASrock, and not Swiftech's wiring. What could I have done user error wise that could have resorted in fire? Especially user error that only leads to fire 6 months down the line?


100% without a doubt, had you plugged the pump into the splitter and the splitter's PWM header on the mobo instead of the pump directly, as expressly recommended by Swiftech and by myself in the OP and several others, this would not have happened. This is the exact example of what the splitter is designed to prevent, because not all motherboards can sustain proper power and amperage to the H220 from the PWM plug alone, which can burn out the mobo plug and cause fires in the process. This is also the reason the Glacer 240L and Apogee Drive II both have a PWM fan header for rpm signal and PWM, but a separate plug for 12v power (molex on the APD2, SATA on the 240L). Not to say that it's all user error on your part, but tbh it's more a matter of the parts being incompatible to run the way you were running them. I know it would be a possible PR nightmare, but personally I think Swiftech should require the pump be plugged into the splitter for warrantee purposes, or wire it the way the Glacer 240L is, because I believe a large portion of the malfunctioning units is because of this same setup, whether it be from a fan header that can't sustain correct power or a voltage-modulating header. This is why I think the Glacer 240L will have significantly less RMAs than the H220.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Germanian

i ordered my H220 earlier today from NCIX for $99 that's a good deal. I will post some pics when i get it.

I can't take the noise anymore on my H50 push/pull


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !


----------



## timnswede

After fiddling around a bit in the bios (got a brand new motherboard with the 240l) I hit 4.5 easy at 1.206 volts on my 4770k. I might even be able to bring down the voltage a bit. Temps were in low 70s with the fans on "silent mode" in the Asus AI suite. I will definitely be upgrading the fans to NF-F12s or something, the stock fans are ridiculously loud. Really happy with the performance!


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criskoe*
> 
> I'd love a no fuss. No matinence. 360 aio unit. I don't want to have to worry about air bubbles and topping fluid off. Just put it in there and forget about it for at least 2 years.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Thumbs up


Oh you guys...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of their cooler installed sidways? I have 4 sticks of dominator gt memory and a maximus iv genez so already know it wont fit in the standard mounting orientation. Im just nervous about how close to the gpu the hose outlet will be. If memory wasnt so expensive right now I would just consider a memory upgrade but gez they have been high.
> 
> Thanks!


I have the 240L, and I had to mount mine that way to pass the RAM on the motherboard as well, so to ALSO clear the back of the GPU, I shaved a bit of the plastic flange on the valve off, and the new tubing still fits properly, and with a clamp, no problems have occurred!

Thanks - T


----------



## timnswede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 100% without a doubt, had you plugged the pump into the splitter and the splitter's PWM header on the mobo instead of the pump directly, as expressly recommended by Swiftech and by myself in the OP and several others, this would not have happened. This is the exact example of what the splitter is designed to prevent, because not all motherboards can sustain proper power and amperage to the H220 from the PWM plug alone, which can burn out the mobo plug and cause fires in the process. This is also the reason the Glacer 240L and Apogee Drive II both have a PWM fan header for rpm signal and PWM, but a separate plug for 12v power (molex on the APD2, SATA on the 240L). Not to say that it's all user error on your part, but tbh it's more a matter of the parts being incompatible to run the way you were running them. I know it would be a possible PR nightmare, but personally I think Swiftech should require the pump be plugged into the splitter for warrantee purposes, or wire it the way the Glacer 240L is, because I believe a large portion of the malfunctioning units is because of this same setup, whether it be from a fan header that can't sustain correct power or a voltage-modulating header. This is why I think the Glacer 240L will have significantly less RMAs than the H220.


I just want to make sure my Glacer 240L is set up properly, for the connections that come from the pump I have the PWM hooked into the CPU fan header and the SATA is connected to a SATA cable that is also powering my SSD, is that OK?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> I just want to make sure my Glacer 240L is set up properly, for the connections that come from the pump I have the PWM hooked into the CPU fan header and the SATA is connected to a SATA cable that is also powering my SSD, is that OK?


Absolutely, that's perfect. The Glacer 240L's SATA cable provides full 12v power and the PSU cable provides plenty of amperage to power the pump and HDDs/SSDs. The PWM fan header on the Glacer only has 2 wires instead of 4- the RPM signal wire and the PWM signal wire. The APD2 has 4 on the fan header, but the same 2 are the only ones that go to the pump. The other 2 (12v and ground) go to power the APD2's LED light, which uses WAY less amperage than the massive pump.

The H220 has all 4 wires on the PWM fan header. Although it is theoretically possible and fine to run the pump on many PWM headers alone, the overhead is not there, and thus not recommended for extended periods of time. Much like you wouldn't want to run a cheap 800w PSU at 750w for extended periods of time, why would you do it on a motherboard that is often much more expensive, when you have the splitter that allows the pump to run off the PSU with way more overhead and reliability?


----------



## thebto

Seeing this discussion about using the swiftech splitter, I got wondering: If I get the h220/240L, what would be the best way if I switch the fans to GT 1850s splitter-wise? As in, what's a good splitter for 3 pin fans? I think for 8 or 10 fans would be nice for long-term expansions.


----------



## Mega Man

1 arent those 3 pin fans , if so you will need to buy a fan splitter cable and make sure what ever you use to power it has enough oommph

2 or just get a fan controller

3 still need to make sure the pump is getting full 12v


----------



## PearlJammzz

I just got a H320 and my friend a Glacer 240L. We just hooked them up and his is kicking ass and taking names. It's awesome. I am, however, having problems.

Everyone starts fine, I can get into the bios and everything fine. I go there to monitor temps and the temps start off lower but just keep rising and rising. The fans are running but the pump I don't think is. Any way to tell aside from holding my fingers on the tubing and feeling? On my friend's Glacer I can put my hands on the tubing and I can feel the water moving through it.

I also get a CPU fan error when I boot (even though the fan is plugged in. Tried both ways, through the included PWM controller and plugging directly into the CPU fan port) as well. Any ideas? Did I get a broken pump?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> Seeing this discussion about using the swiftech splitter, I got wondering: If I get the h220/240L, what would be the best way if I switch the fans to GT 1850s splitter-wise? As in, what's a good splitter for 3 pin fans? I think for 8 or 10 fans would be nice for long-term expansions.


Just get the better gt ap29's so you can have PWM, assuming that you can get any gt's anymore (I havent checked) since they are discontinuing them.


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just get the better gt ap29's so you can have PWM, assuming that you can get any gt's anymore (I havent checked) since they are discontinuing them.


I have a few 1850s on hand, I'd love to have some 1850 PWMs, though, but for now I would like to use these if possible. That's why I would like to have a splitter recommended for 3 pin fans. (Pump would still go in CPU FAN, so no problem there, just something for the fans on rad/rads).

Edit: I shoul also add that the splitter would be preferred to be powered, I wouldn't want to stress out the fan header with all the potential fans plugged into the splitter.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just get the better gt ap29's so you can have PWM, assuming that you can get any gt's anymore (I havent checked) since they are discontinuing them.


You can get ap15s at frozen for 19.99 or sidewinder on sale for 15.99.

Did anyone see swiftechs facebook announcement about an h220 x?


----------



## Dudewitbow

the first thing that comes to mind with "X" to me is crossflow radiators, but who knows besides them on what it really is going to be. looking at it, I like the newer komodo block pictures


----------



## Germanian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You can get ap15s at frozen for 19.99 or sidewinder on sale for 15.99.
> 
> Did anyone see swiftechs facebook announcement about an h220 x?


i just saw that announcement hmm i just bought my h220 yesterday








maybe i am not gonna open it yet


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i just saw that announcement hmm i just bought my h220 yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i am not gonna open it yet


you have to remember that things displayed in CES arent released on that date.(some things in CES never get released period, but i dont think swiftech wouldnt pull anything out) iirc, the original h220 was released 2ish months after CES to more of the general public(and was caught in the period of time where swiftech was preparing for factory movement)


----------



## Germanian

i guess i will just use it when it arrives. Can't be that much better than h220 at $99.


----------



## Martinm210

hmm a 220x and an MCP50 high pressure pump. Interesting.

My guess is the MCP50 is built upon the H220 pump but dialed up to compete with the MCP35X.

50 vs 35, must mean something good is a coming.

Not sure on the 220x, maybe a DIY kit with the mcp50? Maybe an H220 with Nidec/Swiftech Ap-29s.
X must be some sort of "eXtreme" model or more minor rev 3 tweak..?

I'm a bit more intrigued by the MCP50, when I first looked at the H220 pump, I hoped a stand alone pump would develope from this.

I know I'm sick, always liked pumps and hydraulics. I need to see one in pieces..


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> I have a few 1850s on hand, I'd love to have some 1850 PWMs, though, but for now I would like to use these if possible. That's why I would like to have a splitter recommended for 3 pin fans. (Pump would still go in CPU FAN, so no problem there, just something for the fans on rad/rads).
> 
> Edit: I shoul also add that the splitter would be preferred to be powered, I wouldn't want to stress out the fan header with all the potential fans plugged into the splitter.


You would need something like this then maybe:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pin-Molex-to-6-x-3-Pin-Fan-Splitter-Power-Board-Better-than-Y-Cable-Adapters-/121146505263?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item1c34e4f82f
Im pretty sure PP or frozen cpu has em that support up to 8 or 10 fans


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> I just got a H320 and my friend a Glacer 240L. We just hooked them up and his is kicking ass and taking names. It's awesome. I am, however, having problems.
> 
> Everyone starts fine, I can get into the bios and everything fine. I go there to monitor temps and the temps start off lower but just keep rising and rising. The fans are running but the pump I don't think is. Any way to tell aside from holding my fingers on the tubing and feeling? On my friend's Glacer I can put my hands on the tubing and I can feel the water moving through it.
> 
> I also get a CPU fan error when I boot (even though the fan is plugged in. Tried both ways, through the included PWM controller and plugging directly into the CPU fan port) as well. Any ideas? Did I get a broken pump?


have to ask did you provide power to the pump? also is the cpu fan port set to pwm ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Just get the better gt ap29's so you can have PWM, assuming that you can get any gt's anymore (I havent checked) since they are discontinuing them.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few 1850s on hand, I'd love to have some 1850 PWMs, though, but for now I would like to use these if possible. That's why I would like to have a splitter recommended for 3 pin fans. (Pump would still go in CPU FAN, so no problem there, just something for the fans on rad/rads).
> 
> Edit: I shoul also add that the splitter would be preferred to be powered, I wouldn't want to stress out the fan header with all the potential fans plugged into the splitter.
Click to expand...

sounds to me like a fan controller, aquaero 6 is a great one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> hmm a 220x and an MCP50 high pressure pump. Interesting.
> 
> My guess is the MCP50 is built upon the H220 pump but dialed up to compete with the MCP35X.
> 
> 50 vs 35, must mean something good is a coming.
> 
> Not sure on the 220x, maybe a DIY kit with the mcp50? Maybe an H220 with Nidec/Swiftech Ap-29s.
> X must be some sort of "eXtreme" model or more minor rev 3 tweak..?
> 
> I'm a bit more intrigued by the MCP50, when I first looked at the H220 pump, I hoped a stand alone pump would develope from this.
> 
> I know I'm sick, always liked pumps and hydraulics. I need to see one in pieces..


agreed !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> I have a few 1850s on hand, I'd love to have some 1850 PWMs, though, but for now I would like to use these if possible. That's why I would like to have a splitter recommended for 3 pin fans. (Pump would still go in CPU FAN, so no problem there, just something for the fans on rad/rads).
> 
> Edit: I shoul also add that the splitter would be preferred to be powered, I wouldn't want to stress out the fan header with all the potential fans plugged into the splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> You would need something like this then maybe:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pin-Molex-to-6-x-3-Pin-Fan-Splitter-Power-Board-Better-than-Y-Cable-Adapters-/121146505263?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item1c34e4f82f
> Im pretty sure PP or frozen cpu has em that support up to 8 or 10 fans
Click to expand...

not if he wants to be able to adj speed


----------



## thebto

Thanks a bunch, Mega Man (hhhehe I love just typing that), and sdmf74.

sdmf74, I did look into those, In fact I saw quite a few different flavors on frozenCPU, jab, PPCs, etc. I think they're made by ModMyToys. They are nice, but as Mega pointed out, no real way to monitor/control speed. Heck, another one that I found, at least on paper, that provides no real monitoring either is the NZXT grid.

That Aquaero 6 looks awesome, though. I have not looked much into an actual controller, I was just looking into splitters (powered ones).

Thanks again, guys.


----------



## Korax

I'm interested in the Glacer 240L, I'm also looking at adding 4 SP120 Performance fans for P/P, would those fans be ideal or are there better? Thanks


----------



## paleh0rse14

After seven months, my h220 pump failed completely today. It will be interesting to see how Swiftech handles this on Monday.


----------



## 66racer

Does anyone know if the fittings on the h220 pump can be swapped for 1/2 ID? Not sure but almost looks like the ones from the apogee drive 2 would work. Think the larger diameter may make the pump more quiet at higher rpm *if* there is a fluid supply bottleneck. I havent heard one of these in person but reviews say its loud at high rpm. Im just thinking unless all the noise is from the motor, could be some noise if the impeller isnt getting enough fluid. Im no water cooling expert though, just trying to think outside the box. I didnt see any of the parts offered separately on the swiftech site but figured I would ask









Since My cooler didnt ship till late last night, Im thinking of ordering a universal gpu block from EK for my gtx770 and pull the h70 off of it.

Im going to run the cooler as shipped first though to compare to my current antec kuhler 920 with 180mm radiator then do the stock h220, then cpu only h220 with only the 180mm radiator







Im addicted to tinkering
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i just saw that announcement hmm i just bought my h220 yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i am not gonna open it yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i guess i will just use it when it arrives. Can't be that much better than h220 at $99.


Im in the same boat! A bit of a AHhh MAnnn! but I cant beat $99.99 for any kind of cooler of this quality plus I dont know if it will really offer more performance for a simple cpu and one gpu loop, probably more for larger loops Im guessing. Ordered mine wed from ncix usa and they didnt send me the tracking number till friday 9pm, not even updated on ups either which is a bummer because I HATE ups lol Always something goes wrong when I use them here. I already see it, they wont drop off because no one is home, their pick up center is 20miles away in HIGH traffic. SO I will need to ask them to leave at the door and get it the following day


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Does anyone know if the fittings on the h220 pump can be swapped for 1/2 ID? Not sure but almost looks like the ones from the apogee drive 2 would work. Think the larger diameter may make the pump more quiet at higher rpm *if* there is a fluid supply bottleneck. I havent heard one of these in person but reviews say its loud at high rpm. Im just thinking unless all the noise is from the motor, could be some noise if the impeller isnt getting enough fluid. Im no water cooling expert though, just trying to think outside the box. I didnt see any of the parts offered separately on the swiftech site but figured I would ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since My cooler didnt ship till late last night, Im thinking of ordering a universal gpu block from EK for my gtx770 and pull the h70 off of it.
> 
> Im going to run the cooler as shipped first though to compare to my current antec kuhler 920 with 180mm radiator then do the stock h220, then cpu only h220 with only the 180mm radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im addicted to tinkering
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i just saw that announcement hmm i just bought my h220 yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i am not gonna open it yet
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i guess i will just use it when it arrives. Can't be that much better than h220 at $99.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Im in the same boat! A bit of a AHhh MAnnn! but I cant beat $99.99 for any kind of cooler of this quality plus I dont know if it will really offer more performance for a simple cpu and one gpu loop, probably more for larger loops Im guessing. Ordered mine wed from ncix usa and they didnt send me the tracking number till friday 9pm, not even updated on ups either which is a bummer because I HATE ups lol Always something goes wrong when I use them here. I already see it, they wont drop off because no one is home, their pick up center is 20miles away in HIGH traffic. SO I will need to ask them to leave at the door and get it the following day
Click to expand...

when i order through ncix they wont even do that for me i have to go pick it up as they always come when i am at work. and it is about the same distance away


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> when i order through ncix they wont even do that for me i have to go pick it up as they always come when i am at work. and it is about the same distance away


Yeah that's lame. I sign the box for them to leave at the door. I live in a triplex unit but luckily all the neighbors are honest lol I used to live literally about 8miles from newegg and ncix (will call) and that's the biggest thing I miss about my old neighborhood but glad to be in orange county.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paleh0rse14*
> 
> After seven months, my h220 pump failed completely today. It will be interesting to see how Swiftech handles this on Monday.


Send me a PM and I'll help you with the RMA process.


----------



## passinos

My first loop. expanding h220 to GPU 7970 Ref. My friend gave me his old Syscooling full jacket.

1) Can I reuse the clamps on the H220?
2) what size hose should I get?

The block says: Connector: G1/4-8 fast twist

I planned on just moving the CPU return hose down to the intake on GPU block and adding a return hose to the Rad.

Thanks


----------



## criznit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you hear water then the pump is likely still operating and you probably just have an air pocket that's impeding the performance of your kit. Try the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump to see if that resolves your issue.


I guess the problem fixed itself and it's been running perfectly fine for the past 48 hrs. I'm planning on adding a gpu to the loop once I decide to upgrade my card. Thanks for the info!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Does anyone know if the fittings on the h220 pump can be swapped for 1/2 ID? Not sure but almost looks like the ones from the apogee drive 2 would work. Think the larger diameter may make the pump more quiet at higher rpm *if* there is a fluid supply bottleneck. I havent heard one of these in person but reviews say its loud at high rpm. Im just thinking unless all the noise is from the motor, could be some noise if the impeller isnt getting enough fluid. Im no water cooling expert though, just trying to think outside the box. I didnt see any of the parts offered separately on the swiftech site but figured I would ask


I had both the H220 and Apogee Drive II simultaneously and tried it. The screw sizes and o-ring offsets are different, so the arms are not interchangeable. The only ID size you can use with the H220 and its siblings is 3/8". The clamps with it only work with 5/8" OD, but you can use 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD if you use different clamps.


----------



## Robilar

My H220 pump just caught fire and died. Literally caught fire. Smoke coming out of my case. Was browsing web, no stress.

I heard a bit of clicking but the H220 does that.

I powered it off quick and threw the stock cooler on my cpu and everything looks ok.

So two things,

How do I get support on this and

most importantly, how did a $160 cpu cooler that has worked fine for over three months suddenly die!!!!


----------



## Germanian

oh god, how?

i just bought my H220 you are scaring me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> My H220 pump just caught fire and died. Literally caught fire. Smoke coming out of my case. Was browsing web, no stress.
> 
> I heard a bit of clicking but the H220 does that.
> 
> I powered it off quick and threw the stock cooler on my cpu and everything looks ok.
> 
> So two things,
> 
> How do I get support on this and
> 
> most importantly, how did a $160 cpu cooler that has worked fine for over three months suddenly die!!!!


I'm very sorry to hear about that. Send me a PM and I'll assist you with getting it replaced.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> oh god, how?
> 
> i just bought my H220 you are scaring me


No clue. It has literally been running fine since day one a couple of months ago. I heard some weird clicking (which the pump usually does when it first starts up) and then fast clicking and the computer locked up.

Powered it down immediately and then smoke started coming out of the case.

Fortunately everything looks like it is ok. The pump is definitely the issue. The hoses had heated up as well.

I have an unused H80i which I threw on and thank god everything is running.

Too bad as it has been stellar up until today.


----------



## eXecuution

Interesting. Two separate issues of fire now, seemingly from two different sources. One from the pump and the other from the wires...


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> My first loop. expanding h220 to GPU 7970 Ref. My friend gave me his old Syscooling full jacket.
> 
> 1) Can I reuse the clamps on the H220?
> 2) what size hose should I get?
> 
> The block says: Connector: G1/4-8 fast twist
> 
> I planned on just moving the CPU return hose down to the intake on GPU block and adding a return hose to the Rad.
> 
> Thanks


NM....
I got it


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> Interesting. Two separate issues of fire now, seemingly from two different sources. One from the pump and the other from the wires...


The rep here reached out and we spoke. I will be going through NCIX tomorrow for replacement.

I have to say, given it's stellar performance in the 2 1/2 months I had it, I am willing to give Swiftech one last try. If the second unit goes down, I'm afraid they will have lost a customer. If it takes any of my hardware with it next time...


----------



## eXecuution

Yeah, I'm not ragging on swiftech. I love my H320 so far. And I can't fault them on their awesome customer service!! But I just think that it's weird out of the tiny sample pool we have here on the forums we've already had a ton of failures/problems and two catastrophic ones.

I really want my H320 to work well... Here's to hoping that nothing like the above happens haha


----------



## Mega Man

and yet since the day i and several others bought ours .... no issues


----------



## 66racer

I'm curious of all the failures; how many of them were being run on the lowest speed. Maybe the pump at the lowest speed may flow enough but possibly at a non ideal speed causing too much load on the motor windings? Like maybe the motor torque at low rpm is too inefficient for long term use.

Think i will run mine at the highest speed that is comfortable to the ear.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I'm curious of all the failures; how many of them were being run on the lowest speed. Maybe the pump at the lowest speed may flow enough but possibly at a non ideal speed causing too much load on the motor windings? Like maybe the motor torque at low rpm is too inefficient for long term use.
> 
> Think i will run mine at the highest speed that is comfortable to the ear.


pwm ... assuming it is used is capped


----------



## grazina

Has anyone mounted the h220/240l on a bare die 4770k cpu. I plan on delliding and might as well just put the pump above the die instead of re-mounting the ihs. I'm just wondering if it is at all possible. I know ekwb released a set of adapters do to this, but don't know if this pump wil simply do that if I just screw a little bit more. Somebody out there must have tried this combination of h220/240l and naked haswell die.


----------



## M3TAl

Seen quite a few delidded club members say there's not much of a benefit by running bare die vs. delid with really good TIM. Not enough benefit to be worth the extra risk going bare die at least, EK's mounting kit significantly reduces that risk though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazina*
> 
> Has anyone mounted the h220/240l on a bare die 4770k cpu. I plan on delliding and might as well just put the pump above the die instead of re-mounting the ihs. I'm just wondering if it is at all possible. I know ekwb released a set of adapters do to this, but don't know if this pump wil simply do that if I just screw a little bit more. Somebody out there must have tried this combination of h220/240l and naked haswell die.


iirc someone in this thread did, but dont ask me any more then that


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I'm curious of all the failures; how many of them were being run on the lowest speed. Maybe the pump at the lowest speed may flow enough but possibly at a non ideal speed causing too much load on the motor windings? Like maybe the motor torque at low rpm is too inefficient for long term use.
> 
> Think i will run mine at the highest speed that is comfortable to the ear.


Mine was on PWM control.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Mine was on PWM control.


I'm very sorry for the issue that you had with NCIX. I sent you PM regarding it so please answer my questions so I can contact their management. We'll get this sorted out and I'm sorry you wasted your time driving down there.


----------



## grazina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Seen quite a few delidded club members say there's not much of a benefit by running bare die vs. delid with really good TIM. Not enough benefit to be worth the extra risk going bare die at least, EK's mounting kit significantly reduces that risk though.


But can you use that ekwb kit with the h220/240l pump?
I know it works with their blocks and even if it's only a 3 degree decrease in temps I think it's worth pursuing.


----------



## Nightingale

you guys are making me worried. I have an H220 on it's way that I will be using to cool my 780 Lightning and now I'm gonna be in a constant state of paranoia of the pump dying and killing my GPU. I was thinking Is there a sort of "Thermal kill switch device" that I can install that will automatically shut my pc down if Set max Temp is reach?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> you guys are making me worried. I have an H220 on it's way that I will be using to cool my 780 Lightning and now I'm gonna be in a constant state of paranoia of the pump dying and killing my GPU. I was thinking Is there a sort of "Thermal kill switch device" that I can install that will automatically shut my pc down if Set max Temp is reach?


If you're using this kit in conjunction with your CPU then it won't be an issue. Motherboards have a setting in the BIOS to shut down the PC if there is no CPU fan detected. This will shut down your system if the pump fails. Just make sure to install the kit as the instructions specify and you'll be fine.

Another thing to keep in mind is that these forums are where people go when they have issues. Therefore the number of issues can seem pretty high if you were to just go off of what people say on forums. Most people don't talk about a product unless they're having problems with it.


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're using this kit in conjunction with your CPU then it won't be an issue. Motherboards have a setting in the BIOS to shut down the PC if there is no CPU fan detected. This will shut down your system if the pump fails. Just make sure to install the kit as the instructions specify and you'll be fine.
> 
> Another thing to keep in mind is that these forums are where people go when they have issues. Therefore the number of issues can seem pretty high if you were to just go off of what people say on forums. Most people don't talk about a product unless they're having problems with it.


Well Bram this is very true, I still made the order knowing full well of some of the problems people had with the pump. Why? Cause the one redeeming thing I hear over and over again is your customer care and how well and fast your company has rectified any issues customer's had with there units, not even corsair is that personal and fast.

So if I am to understand correct, if the pump fails while having the 8 way splitter connected to the CPU-FAN header on the motherboard, the bios will detect the fan as non functional and shut the system down?


----------



## Robilar

Bram was great today folks. NCIX was giving me some issues swapping out the kit that burned over the weekend. Bram connected with NCIX and I was able to get a new kit this afternoon.

One thing I did notice on the new kit is that the fins on the fans look slightly different.

Were they changed?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Well Bram this is very true, I still made the order knowing full well of some of the problems people had with the pump. Why? Cause the one redeeming thing I hear over and over again is your customer care and how well and fast your company has rectified any issues customer's had with there units, not even corsair is that personal and fast.
> 
> So if I am to understand correct, if the pump fails while having the 8 way splitter connected to the CPU-FAN header on the motherboard, the bios will detect the fan as non functional and shut the system down?


Depends on how you have your bios settings configured. At default most boards should have that as a function. However, once you start disabling stuff to enable overclocking, that may not be the case. My system rebooted and ran with the pump dead and it is directly connected to the cpu fan header on the motherboard. I do not use the splitter (my fans go to an external fan controller).

My system even got back into windows with a dead pump and then BSOD'd.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Bram was great today folks. NCIX was giving me some issues swapping out the kit that burned over the weekend. Bram connected with NCIX and I was able to get a new kit this afternoon.
> 
> One thing I did notice on the new kit is that the fins on the fans look slightly different.
> 
> Were they changed?


Glad I was able to help you get that taken care of. I'm very sorry for the miscommunication with NCIX. You're also right that the settings in the BIOS will depend on whether or not your motherboard will shut the system down if your CPU fan fails.


----------



## jerrolds

Can the 220 or 320 support an i7 [email protected]+ and a Radeon R9 [email protected]+?

I know the 290X can get really really hot (95C with stock cooler/speed), ive replaced it with the Gelid ICY 2 and brought temps down to 65C while overclocking/volting to 1180mhz/+110mV and the VRMs are holding me back.

I'm wondering if i get get the 220 now for my CPU, then eventually add the 290X to the loop in the future. (I already bought an XSPC Backplate for aesthetic/strengthening reasons only - so it kinda lends itself to finish it off and putting an XSPC block on it sometime)

I dont think i can afford going full custom at the moment, or if its worth doing it on my i7 2600k.

Not even sure if i can mix and match a Swiftech H220/320 with a GPU with a XSPC Razor block?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Can the 220 or 320 support an i7 [email protected]+ and a Radeon R9 [email protected]+?
> 
> I know the 290X can get really really hot (95C with stock cooler/speed), ive replaced it with the Gelid ICY 2 and brought temps down to 65C while overclocking/volting to 1180mhz/+110mV and the VRMs are holding me back.
> 
> I'm wondering if i get get the 220 now for my CPU, then eventually add the 290X to the loop in the future. (I already bought an XSPC Backplate for aesthetic/strengthening reasons only - so it kinda lends itself to finish it off and putting an XSPC block on it sometime)
> 
> I dont think i can afford going full custom at the moment, or if its worth doing it on my i7 2600k.


The H220 would be pushing it, but the H320 shouldn't have a problem handling those components with those overclocks.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220 would be pushing it, but the H320 shouldn't have a problem handling those components with those overclocks.


Oh cool +Rep - do i need anything extra to hook the XSPC block to the H320?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Oh cool +Rep - do i need anything extra to hook the XSPC block to the H320?


Yes, you'll also need fittings. Just make sure that they are also 3/8 by 5/8 to match the size of the tubing. Depending on your tube routing you might also need more tubing and coolant. Thanks for the rep.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Well Bram this is very true, I still made the order knowing full well of some of the problems people had with the pump. Why? Cause the one redeeming thing I hear over and over again is your customer care and how well and fast your company has rectified any issues customer's had with there units, not even corsair is that personal and fast.
> 
> So if I am to understand correct, if the pump fails while having the 8 way splitter connected to the CPU-FAN header on the motherboard, the bios will detect the fan as non functional and shut the system down?


+1

Its uneasy hearing about failures but like it was said; the guys with perfectly working units don't have anything bad to day. My desicion to still buy the unit is because the customer service has been amazing in here and that's very important to me.

I'm looking forward to receiving the unit...now ncix on the other hand apparently still hasn't shipped it according to ups. I paid on Thursday (or wed night can't remember) for 2 day shipping. I have done will call when I lived closer and they are friendly there but man I was hoping to mess with the cooler on new years since I'm off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Bram was great today folks. NCIX was giving me some issues swapping out the kit that burned over the weekend. Bram connected with NCIX and I was able to get a new kit this afternoon.
> 
> One thing I did notice on the new kit is that the fins on the fans look slightly different.
> 
> Were they changed?


Glad to hear swiftech took care of you.

Mind posting pics of the fans?


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Honest question, how many would like to see the improved Glacer 360 and would want to purchase it in North Americas? This will have the Glacer features as well as some added tweaks from CM.


I'd be first in line for one of these.


----------



## Robilar

So does Swiftech cover damaged hardware if their kit fails?


----------



## M3TAl

I don't think they do because normally failed hardware would be from a leak. And since it's expandable leaks are on the user. Cases like fire though, that's really something extraordinary/rare so maybe they will make an exception? Case by case basis?

I'm sure Bram can give a statement on this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> you guys are making me worried. I have an H220 on it's way that I will be using to cool my 780 Lightning and now I'm gonna be in a constant state of paranoia of the pump dying and killing my GPU. I was thinking Is there a sort of "Thermal kill switch device" that I can install that will automatically shut my pc down if Set max Temp is reach?


dont, last known report was a 3% failure rate iirc ( gabe the ceo stated this )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> So does Swiftech cover damaged hardware if their kit fails?


this is on a case by case basis


----------



## Mattb2e

So I had a minor heart attack yesterday, figuratively speaking. I just purchased a new case and transferred my components from the old case to the new one. Re-installation of the H220 was pretty straight forward, and with some help I was able to avoid the need to pull the CPU block off of the CPU during the transfer. When I got things back together and started it up, the pump wasn't running, and I was overheating pretty quickly. I'm not sure if the fan header connector wasn't positioned properly on the distribution block or not, but a simple unplug/replug made the pump run again.

After that the pump gurgled for a good while, as the movement from one case to another must have moved an air bubble around and down to the CPU block. The noise has dissipated and I suspect the air bubble has been brought back up to the reservoir where it will be a non issue.

My only question at this point is should I be checking the fluid level after 8 months of service, or is it good to go the way it is? I don't want to open it up if its not necessary.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hello I just bought the h220 and i have some questions, you look like you are very familiar with watercooling and this unit and i just wanted to know if anyone can help me. First off i want to ask how do would i control the fan speeds on the helix and rpms of the pump, i used the fan splitter swiftech provided and plugged it into the cpu fan 4 pin on my motherboard. and are my temps normal? i have the i7 3770k running at stock v and ghz which is something like 1.15v and 3.5 ghz going at 29C and during gaming like bf4 crysis 3 league of legends my cpu goes to 55C


----------



## Dudewitbow

dependant on motherboard, you may have an option in bios to manually set curves(if not accessible in windows already). Then you should have the ability to control the fan using a program like Speedfan or other alternatives like asus' fan xpert(asus motherboards).


----------



## dansi

Hi Bram of Swiftech, i may wish to swap out the H220 radiator and go for a single thick 140mm or 180mm radiator.
Do you know what else i need besides buying said new radiator?
Do i need a reservoir? Can i reuse Swiftech H220 liquid?

Im a newt here.
Changing to a single radiator due to space savings in my casing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Hi Bram of Swiftech, i may wish to swap out the H220 radiator and go for a single thick 140mm or 180mm radiator.
> Do you know what else i need besides buying said new radiator?
> Do i need a reservoir? Can i reuse Swiftech H220 liquid?
> 
> Im a newt here.
> Changing to a single radiator due to space savings in my casing.


You will need a reservoir and 3/8 by 5/8 fittings. You can reuse the coolant if you want as well.


----------



## Nightingale

I have a question for anyone familiar with push pull configurations. I have 2 spare AP-14 and AP-15. I was thinking of adding either the AP-15 or 14 to the radiator in combination with the PWN Helix.

Ideally I would prefer to use the AP-14 with the the Helix since GT's are not PWM they are going to have to be run at Full speed and the 14's are silent at full speed, unlike the AP-15 which tend to generate a certain humming noise.

Would this have any benefit to temps? AP-14 pushing + Helix pulling?


----------



## Phelan

Only about 1*C difference.


----------



## dansi

Thank you Bram, it is noted!


----------



## Korax

Anyone know the performance difference between the Glacier and an H110? I checked around the net and didn't seem to find any reviews with that information. Maybe someone has personal experience they could share. Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korax*
> 
> Anyone know the performance difference between the Glacier and an H110? I checked around the net and didn't seem to find any reviews with that information. Maybe someone has personal experience they could share. Thanks


Being that the Glacer does perform slightly better than the H220 due to the higher fan speed and slightly higher pump RPM, you can still pretty much go off of the reviews that compare the H220 to the H110.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korax*
> 
> Anyone know the performance difference between the Glacier and an H110? I checked around the net and didn't seem to find any reviews with that information. Maybe someone has personal experience they could share. Thanks


The Glacer 240l or better yet Swiftech h220 beats the H110 or sometimes very close in performance, if you google those two(swiftech h220 vs h110) you'll find results.

Here is a quick video - Jump to 15min for the results





Linus results
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2LKAgEko3SATzJjQVdONWxpZ00/edit?pli=1


----------



## smithydan

Oh and yeah, what bram said.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys, judging by the bunch of people that bought the H220 and the amount of problems they had with their pumps, I am now very worried and might be regretting my first watercooler purchase. I hear a little noise noise coming from the pump idk if its bad or good or normal, and my temps are very strage. during idle the minimum is 21Cto25 on the CORES but what strikes me the most is that sometimes they bump up to 40C.... and once again my settings are defualt 3.5ghz and like 1.1v on the cpu and the ram is 1600mhz hyperx. on a p8z77 motherboard and 670 FTW gpu, I am concerned about my pump failing and killing my cpu or any leaks ! can anyone help me as this is very stressful and i worked really hard getting this gaming rig


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi guys, judging by the bunch of people that bought the H220 and the amount of problems they had with their pumps, I am now very worried and might be regretting my first watercooler purchase. I hear a little noise noise coming from the pump idk if its bad or good or normal, and my temps are very strage. during idle the minimum is 21Cto25 on the CORES but what strikes me the most is that sometimes they bump up to 40C.... and once again my settings are defualt 3.5ghz and like 1.1v on the cpu and the ram is 1600mhz hyperx. on a p8z77 motherboard and 670 FTW gpu, I am concerned about my pump failing and killing my cpu or any leaks ! can anyone help me as this is very stressful and i worked really hard getting this gaming rig


You didn't mention what CPU you have but from ivy that doesn't seem too far off. You may want to see what your temps are while gaming. I like using the program coretemp. It will record your max temp reached.

As far as noise; make a video and post it on YouTube and link it here. Some noises can be air bubbles and possibly what you might have head. Don't worry about leaks; extremely rare and I think swiftech uses a non conductive liquid if not mistaken.

Worst case if your pump fails the CPU will do a thermal shutdown after a certain temp. To protect itself from damage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi guys, judging by the bunch of people that bought the H220 and the amount of problems they had with their pumps, I am now very worried and might be regretting my first watercooler purchase. I hear a little noise noise coming from the pump idk if its bad or good or normal, and my temps are very strage. during idle the minimum is 21Cto25 on the CORES but what strikes me the most is that sometimes they bump up to 40C.... and once again my settings are defualt 3.5ghz and like 1.1v on the cpu and the ram is 1600mhz hyperx. on a p8z77 motherboard and 670 FTW gpu, I am concerned about my pump failing and killing my cpu or any leaks ! can anyone help me as this is very stressful and i worked really hard getting this gaming rig
> 
> 
> 
> You didn't mention what CPU you have but from ivy that doesn't seem too far off. You may want to see what your temps are while gaming. I like using the program coretemp. It will record your max temp reached.
> 
> As far as noise; make a video and post it on YouTube and link it here. Some noises can be air bubbles and possibly what you might have head. Don't worry about leaks; extremely rare and I think swiftech uses a non conductive liquid if not mistaken.
> 
> Worst case if your pump fails the CPU will do a thermal shutdown after a certain temp. To protect itself from damage.
Click to expand...

i would recommend hwinfo64 as it shows max and min temps


----------



## esseci59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would recommend hwinfo64 as it shows max and min temps


Or Realtemp, also in its Techinferno version...........


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Yeah sorry about that, I have the i7 3770k, when i bought it I was thinking about overclocking but never did so considering i spent so much already and this was my first build and since boxing day came i bought the h220. At first i was very happy and from the videos from LinusTechTips it looked like the best AIO out there so i bought it. Due to my lack of research i saw a bunch of people putting it down and not recommending it because there were so many failures in the pump and I read how ppl got instructions of changing the liquid and opening it up from the guy at swiftech. The situation for me is that I am not capable of doing so and very scared of breaking something. I use Real Temps to check every thing out and the sound is similar to this video but not as loud, i would have to put my head against the ventilation of the case to hear it 



 Should i return my unit ? I really don't want to have anything failing on me after the 30 day return period. It runs at 1700 RPM in my cpu fan reading in the bios


----------



## Dudewitbow

regardless of any watercooling loop you use, a pump failure is always a possibility. its one of the invisible contracts we as builders sign when going into that field. no pump is exempt from this really, including all AIO units(including Closed loop ones). the amount of pump failures seem high only because the people who need to tell swiftech that their pump died needs to talk, while users who have working and fine pumps stay quiet because they don't need to talk at all. If every user had walked into this thread and said that their pump was still working, this thread would have easily double its post count probably, but the majority do not need to, so the real deciding factor really is purpose and support. Swiftech has pretty outstanding support(at least here) as we have access to a swiftech rep directly here. OCN in general has a few of those reps walking around, there are still other companies who dont have reps and dont receive as much feedback that sometimes it may hurt customer support.

my build being near similar to yours (i7-3770k ~4.5ghz at 1.31v(ish)on a P8Z77-V Le plus), just be sure to have the pump attached to the splitter attached to the CPU FAN, as it is PWM. do not use the one next to it. I self tested that one myself using the splitter and helix fan, not PWM, does not get speed modulation under fanxpert. just keep your cpu auto shutdown temperature on in bios and set it at a good level and you should be fine. nothing should die unless something shorts out or burns, which both are rare occurrences.

just Intel Burn tested for reference, peaked temp at 57 average was 53.25 on my clocks(not fully locked clocks, still left speed step on) [to be fair, i have 3x120mm of radiator space though, but only 2 of the fans working them along with a dellided 3770k with coolaboratory pro inside the IHS so your actual mileage will vary]


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

I guess I really should have listened to the salesperson.... He told me that this is the best performing watercooler AIO but it has the highest RMA rate of 40%...... maybe i should have gone with the corsair h100i cuz I am a noob and afraid of taking apart the watercooler and refilling and opening the parts of the pump... Sigh I can't even return this cuz it was final sale
- Water Cooling hopes have been crushed


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> regardless of any watercooling loop you use, a pump failure is always a possibility. its one of the invisible contracts we as builders sign when going into that field. no pump is exempt from this really, including all AIO units(including Closed loop ones). the amount of pump failures seem high only because the people who need to tell swiftech that their pump died needs to talk, while users who have working and fine pumps stay quiet because they don't need to talk at all. If every user had walked into this thread and said that their pump was still working, this thread would have easily double its post count probably, but the majority do not need to, so the real deciding factor really is purpose and support. Swiftech has pretty outstanding support(at least here) as we have access to a swiftech rep directly here. OCN in general has a few of those reps walking around, there are still other companies who dont have reps and dont receive as much feedback that sometimes it may hurt customer support.
> 
> my build being near similar to yours (*i7-3770k ~4.5ghz at 1.31v(ish)on a P8Z77-V Le plus*), just be sure to have the pump attached to the splitter attached to the CPU FAN, as it is PWM. do not use the one next to it. I self tested that one myself using the splitter and helix fan, not PWM, does not get speed modulation under fanxpert. just keep your cpu auto shutdown temperature on in bios and set it at a good level and you should be fine. nothing should die unless something shorts out or burns, which both are rare occurrences.
> 
> just Intel Burn tested for reference, peaked temp at 57 average was 53.25 on my clocks(not fully locked clocks, still left speed step on) [to be fair, i have 3x120mm of radiator space though, but only 2 of the fans working them along with a dellided 3770k with coolaboratory pro inside the IHS so your actual mileage will vary]


That's a really high vcore on your chip? I am running a 3770k as well at 1.25 vcore, 4.5 with HT on fully stable. Have you tried a lower voltage?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hey nice job on the overclock, since i am a newbie do you mind giving me some tips? i used the pwm splitter and plugged it into my cpu fan 4 pin on my motherboard and it shows cpu fan as 1700 rpm in the bios. is that the rpm of my fans and pump? and how are you achieving those temps? on 2.5 ghz on the i7 3770k i get temps a bit higher than yours


----------



## Nightingale

Quick Question in regards to the included Swiftech 8-port PWM Fan Block. Does the CPU PWN fan header control all of the 8 channels? The Swiftech Pump runs at a max of 3000 RPM. Since the pump is to be connected to the first channel on the Swiftech block which then is connected to CPU fan controller on the motherboard , this means essentially the pumps RPM/Strength is controlled by the motherboards speed fan.

With that being said, I would assume then for the Swiftech pump to run at it's full 3000 RPM, this would mean any fan connected to the block would be running at full speed since all my fans in my case run at a max of 1800 RPM. Am I correct in my assumption here?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> That's a really high vcore on your chip? I am running a 3770k as well at 1.25 vcore, 4.5 with HT on fully stable. Have you tried a lower voltage?


i havent finished benching really. i set a higher voltage to see how high voltage i can sustain without going over my prefered temperature(trying to aim for a max of 70). and will steadily bump up clock to test for stability afterwords. i essentially do it backwords than most people, which they do clocks and increase voltage to support clock unless its too much. i do volts and increase clocks till its unstable.


----------



## Robilar

I would assume that is the pump RPM as long as you have the pump plugged into the correct spot on the splitter.

Plus I am using push - pull with the H220. I added two fans (Corsair 3000 RPM fans from an H80i) which helps.

What vcore are you using in the bios for your cpu? If you have it set to auto, it will use quite a bit more than is required.


----------



## Dudewitbow

I have it set at 1.33 i think in bios, the OS chooses to keep it at 1.31 on average. previous owner used it at 1.35 at 4.6ghz but using an h80 push/pull with ap-15 vs 360mm rad space with a helix and back sp120qe(other helix was placed too low that it drags on the plastic fan cover making noise, didnt bother to get it fixed, I have another sp120 i can use that i was too lazy to remove the fan and replace). probably going to tread 4.6 and 4.7 ghz later and see some tests and some normal use doesnt crash on me.


----------



## Robilar

The thing about the 3770k is that it requires relatively low vcore up until 4.5. After that it ramps up pretty quick. Unless you are strictly benching, 4.5 with HT is plenty for anything you might throw at it.

I'd prefer a low vcore 4.5, to a high vcore 4.7 any day.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

cppu.png 158k .png file


cpuidle.png 39k .png file

are these temps normal ? considering i didnt do anything to overlock my cpu ? in need of help


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> regardless of any watercooling loop you use, a pump failure is always a possibility. its one of the invisible contracts we as builders sign when going into that field. no pump is exempt from this really, including all AIO units(including Closed loop ones). the amount of pump failures seem high only because the people who need to tell swiftech that their pump died needs to talk, while users who have working and fine pumps stay quiet because they don't need to talk at all. If every user had walked into this thread and said that their pump was still working, this thread would have easily double its post count probably, but the majority do not need to, so the real deciding factor really is purpose and support. Swiftech has pretty outstanding support(at least here) as we have access to a swiftech rep directly here. OCN in general has a few of those reps walking around, there are still other companies who dont have reps and dont receive as much feedback that sometimes it may hurt customer support.
> 
> my build being near similar to yours (i7-3770k ~4.5ghz at 1.31v(ish)on a P8Z77-V Le plus), just be sure to have the pump attached to the splitter attached to the CPU FAN, as it is PWM. do not use the one next to it. I self tested that one myself using the splitter and helix fan, not PWM, does not get speed modulation under fanxpert. just keep your cpu auto shutdown temperature on in bios and set it at a good level and you should be fine. nothing should die unless something shorts out or burns, which both are rare occurrences.
> 
> just Intel Burn tested for reference, peaked temp at 57 average was 53.25 on my clocks(not fully locked clocks, still left speed step on) [to be fair, i have 3x120mm of radiator space though, but only 2 of the fans working them along with a dellided 3770k with coolaboratory pro inside the IHS so your actual mileage will vary]


make sure to use ibt avx ( found on the opening post of the 83xx club in my sig ) and not regular ibt ! also use max for best stability results !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I guess I really should have listened to the salesperson.... He told me that this is the best performing watercooler AIO but it has the highest RMA rate of 40%...... maybe i should have gone with the corsair h100i cuz I am a noob and afraid of taking apart the watercooler and refilling and opening the parts of the pump... Sigh I can't even return this cuz it was final sale
> - Water Cooling hopes have been crushed


1 where does he get that number from?, that would be pretty unprofitable, and as swiftech is a company for profit, i bet it is also inaccurate !
2 you will be fine, just do what others have said, the h220 is an exceptional little kit
3 you keep asking "what if it fails", i ask " what if it doesnt "
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Quick Question in regards to the included Swiftech 8-port PWM Fan Block. Does the CPU PWN fan header control all of the 8 channels? The Swiftech Pump runs at a max of 3000 RPM. Since the pump is to be connected to the first channel on the Swiftech block which then is connected to CPU fan controller on the motherboard , this means essentially the pumps RPM/Strength is controlled by the motherboards speed fan.
> 
> With that being said, I would assume then for the Swiftech pump to run at it's full 3000 RPM, this would mean any fan connected to the block would be running at full speed since all my fans in my case run at a max of 1800 RPM. Am I correct in my assumption here?


you are correct, although there are several other ways to do what you want, while properly powering the pump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> cppu.png 158k .png file
> 
> 
> cpuidle.png 39k .png file
> 
> are these temps normal ? considering i didnt do anything to overlock my cpu ? in need of help


you dont have to attach the file, use the little pic picture to upload pics


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I guess I really should have listened to the salesperson.... He told me that this is the best performing watercooler AIO but it has the highest RMA rate of 40%...... maybe i should have gone with the corsair h100i cuz I am a noob and afraid of taking apart the watercooler and refilling and opening the parts of the pump... Sigh I can't even return this cuz it was final sale
> - Water Cooling hopes have been crushed


Me thinks your salesperson is/was a moron. Pretty sure Bryan stated here it was around 3% or so (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Definitely not 40%


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> cppu.png 158k .png file
> 
> 
> cpuidle.png 39k .png file
> 
> are these temps normal ? considering i didnt do anything to overlock my cpu ? in need of help


At 3.7 ghz your temps are mid 40's to 50's under load with idle temps around 30. That's about right.

Have you run intel burn test to see what max load temps look like?

These are my idle temps (mind you my fans are set to minimum RPM currently)


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hello again . Sorry but what is a Intel burn test ? Still new to the computer stuff lol . And yes low 30s are the idle temps and the higher temps I posted was during gaming when I was playing bf 4.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Oh and one more question is it normal for my pump to have a small buzzing vibration type of sound ?


----------



## Robilar

intel burn test is a free stress program you can download

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?197835-IntelBurnTest-The-new-stress-testing-program

The pumps all make some type of noise. If you notice it planing out while under load, it is fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Oh and one more question is it normal for my pump to have a small buzzing vibration type of sound ?


yes

and please note
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> make sure to use ibt avx ( found on the opening post of the 83xx club in my sig ) and not regular ibt ! also use max for best stability results !


----------



## Yvese

Does pump speed matter pass a certain %? I'd like to get it a little quieter since both the pump and fans get a bit noisy past 50%. I'm thinking of replacing the fans with NF-F12's and leaving the pump at 50% to get ti quieter.


----------



## FloatingPoint

Hey guys, I received a H220 for Christmas and was hoping to get some advice about the included PWM splitter before proceeding with my install. I'm planning to install several 2-way PWM splitters on the 8-way PCB, allowing more case fans to be managed by the unit. I'm planning on running 10x San Ace 9S1212P4M011 PWM fans in total (including 2 on the H220's Radiator, replacing the stock fans). These fans draw 0.13A at max load each. The question is, will this be safe to do? Can the PCB handle this?


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> The pumps all make some type of noise.


My H320 pump doesn't make any noise... guess I got lucky. The fans whir up (but with a non-intrusive tone) at high speeds but the pump is silent ^_^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Does pump speed matter pass a certain %?


For just CPU loop, apparently past 1800RPM on the pump (was it 1800? not sure IIRC) it makes very little / no difference. But you want the fans to go full speed when needed.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloatingPoint*
> 
> Hey guys, I received a H220 for Christmas and was hoping to get some advice about the included PWM splitter before proceeding with my install. I'm planning to install several 2-way PWM splitters on the 8-way PCB, allowing more case fans to be managed by the unit. I'm planning on running 10x San Ace 9S1212P4M011 PWM fans in total (including 2 on the H220's Radiator, replacing the stock fans). These fans draw 0.13A at max load each. The question is, will this be safe to do? Can the PCB handle this?


I wouldn't recommend daisy chaining 2 way splitters off the Swiftech splitter. The way to do what you're wanting to do IMO is to daisy chain 2 Swiftech PWM splitters and split the fans and pump between the remaining plugs on the splitters. The advantage of doing this is that you will have to power both SATA headers, meaning the load is split between both PWM splitters while still running all the fans off the same PWM signal.


----------



## smithydan

Besides Newegg, anyone else sourced their Glacer 240l from another source?

Amazon and CM Store 'out-of-stock'.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Besides Newegg, anyone else sourced their Glacer 240l from another source?
> 
> Amazon and CM Store 'out-of-stock'.


NCIX has it but OOS, Newegg is in stock (although you said besides), and not a lot of other places unless you do ebay/used


----------



## FloatingPoint

Hey Phelan, thanks for the advice, I'll order another 8-way splitter today.

Looking into this has raised an alarm for me though. The splitter I got with my H220 has molex power instead of sata. I assume this means my H220 is an older model. Does this mean I am likely to suffer the clogging up issues people were facing early on? Is there any way of knowing (by serial number perhaps) which units were affected by those issues?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hello Friends im back again and I have a video of my pumps constant buzzing type of sound, if anyone knows the reason why it makes this noise please let me know, and if I should be concerned or not and also turn up the volume as I am using a crappy note 3 for recording this. 



 This is at 20% of the RPM of the pump and fans


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> My H320 pump doesn't make any noise... guess I got lucky. The fans whir up (but with a non-intrusive tone) at high speeds but the pump is silent ^_^
> For just CPU loop, apparently past 1800RPM on the pump (was it 1800? not sure IIRC) it makes very little / no difference. But you want the fans to go full speed when needed.


So that would be about 60%. Do you know of any benchmarks that show the differences between pump speeds? I can't find any for the h220









I can't test it myself since the 2 rad fans are on the PWM splitter included on the package so any speed I put would also apply for the fans. My case fans are also occupying all the other pins on the motherboard.


----------



## 66racer

Ok total frankenstien but my cooler came in today! Gonna wait till the weekend to make it pretty, sat my ek universal vga block comes in.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> So that would be about 60%. Do you know of any benchmarks that show the differences between pump speeds? I can't find any for the h220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't test it myself since the 2 rad fans are on the PWM splitter included on the package so any speed I put would also apply for the fans. My case fans are also occupying all the other pins on the motherboard.


I should be able to test that. My 4 rad fans are on a fan controller and my pump is direct to the cpu header. The only problem is if I run IBT it will max the pump out. I might be able to go into my bios and set the max RPM for the pump itself.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I should be able to test that. My 4 rad fans are on a fan controller and my pump is direct to the cpu header. The only problem is if I run IBT it will max the pump out. I might be able to go into my bios and set the max RPM for the pump itself.


If you can test it that'd be great!

Also what fan controller are you using? I've been eying http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995016. First time looking at fan controllers since my old Antec 1200 already had knobs for each case fan


----------



## Robilar

The NZXT Mix 2. The only 6 channel - 30w per channel I could find (Lamptron is pretty scarce in Canada).

You can change the LED colors as well to suit.

http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01404_zps2c866c3b.jpg.html


----------



## Gil80

Hi

I own Swiftech H220 and I wish to purchase Nvidia 780Ti GPU and loop it Swiftech.

This is the store I'm purchasing from: PC CASE GEAR

Can someone please tell me what components do I need to use for the job?

I know I'd like to use clear tubing and UV light.
I will also require a GPU water block to fit the GTX 780 Ti.

Any help is much appreciated!

Thank you


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> The NZXT Mix 2. The only 6 channel - 30w per channel I could find (Lamptron is pretty scarce in Canada).
> 
> You can change the LED colors as well to suit.
> 
> http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/DSC01404_zps2c866c3b.jpg.html


Cool. Will go for that instead then


----------



## PCM2

[wrong thread]


----------



## deploring

Looking to purchase either the H220 or H320. Just wondering if there's any significant performance differences between the two? I have a 540 air so space isn't really an issue. Also looking to grab an i5 4670k or a broadwell when it comes out and OCing a fair amount.


----------



## smithydan

H320 performs better, if your going to do GPU and CPU get it, if not H220 will suffice


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys, I have a question, is it safe to plug the pump into your cpu fan and have the helix fans plugged into pwm splitter which would be plugged into cpu opt? is this safe or harmful to your watercooler?


----------



## Robilar

It won't hurt the pump. The CPU opt on some boards does not run a full 12v so you might not get as much power to the fans.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

I have the asus p8z77 D board, i'm not sure on how to check if the 4 pin has this power, does anyone know?


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I have the asus p8z77 D board, i'm not sure on how to check if the 4 pin has this power, does anyone know?


Hi, if you use the splitter and power it with the sata power connector from your psu it will ensure your fans get full 12v power, the 4 pin cable to your CPU opt will report the speed of your fans as long as 1 of them is plugged into port 1 of the splitter (the red 1). Depending on the m/board you may not be able to alter the fan speeds though, I can't when connecting mine this way but my Asus board is quite old now X58 series, not all CPU opt headers are Pwm controllable even if they have 4 pins, hope this helps!


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys this is a video of my Pump making this noise? Can anyone let me know if its normal or do i need to get it replaced


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys this is a video of my Pump making this noise? Can anyone let me know if its normal or do i need to get it replaced


What pump speed is that at? Kind of sounds normal to me; might be hearing some air in the pump but not sure.

You can even turn every fan off a few moments if you really want to isolate the pump noise. Keep an eye on temps but with the pump running; you can probably AT LEAST GO 10mins without fans on. Sometimes wind noise/turbulence can make some funny sounds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Besides Newegg, anyone else sourced their Glacer 240l from another source?
> 
> Amazon and CM Store 'out-of-stock'.


Ncix USA sells the swiftech variation. Got mine on sale for $100. They ship it from Canada but arrives quick enough.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Yes i have tried it actually i unplugged the fans around it and the ones on my radiator, idk if you can really hear it in that video but its like a buzzing noise. I've sent this to the people at swiftech but still no reply and it's been a week, maybe they are on vacation. I am 100% sure it should not be making this noise because my friend has the same one and his does not have it. I tried the tips on removing the air bubbles but no results.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> What pump speed is that at? Kind of sounds normal to me; might be hearing some air in the pump but not sure.
> 
> The pump speed is at 1600 Rpm


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a question, is it safe to plug the pump into your cpu fan and have the helix fans plugged into pwm splitter which would be plugged into cpu opt? is this safe or harmful to your watercooler?


It's plausible, but not recommended. There has been at least one occurence posted on this thread in the last two weeks of a motherboard that couldn't handle the power draw from the pump. The better option would be to pick up a second Splitter and run the pump on it and the fans on the other splitter. However some CPU_OPT headers are not PWM, so running the fans on the splitter to that header may just have the fans run full speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It's plausible, but not recommended. There has been at least one occurence posted on this thread in the last two weeks of a motherboard that couldn't handle the power draw from the pump. The better option would be to pick up a second Splitter and run the pump on it and the fans on the other splitter. However some CPU_OPT headers are not PWM, so running the fans on the splitter to that header may just have the fans run full speed.


Why use a second splitter? In that scenario with one splitter using the CPU header and the other using the CPU_OPT both would be using the same PWM speed signal. The fans and pump can simply plug into the included splitter with the same result. Only difference would be that you can't monitor pump and fan speed simultaneously.


----------



## King Nothing

Ok, so I read MOST of this thread and i got a few questions.

1. I just ordered a H220 from NCIX and I'm wondering if this will have the molex or sata splitter.
2. Will it have the new impeller design or older single hole design.
3. Is it still advised to drain the loop to get rid of debris.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Ok, so I read MOST of this thread and i got a few questions.
> 
> 1. I just ordered a H220 from NCIX and I'm wondering if this will have the molex or sata splitter.


I got mine from NCIX a few months back and I've got the SATA splitter.


----------



## King Nothing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I got mine from NCIX a few months back and I've got the SATA splitter.


Thanks!. Are you actually using it since you have a Sabertooth? Hows it running for you. Any problems or noise?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Thanks!. Are you actually using it since you have a Sabertooth? Hows it running for you. Any problems or noise?


Yeah I'm running it no problem. Even with the shroud on the Sabertooth Z77 it fits without any issues.

My H220 has been working great from day one. Temps are great, it's nice and quiet and no problems with the pump.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Thanks!. Are you actually using it since you have a Sabertooth? Hows it running for you. Any problems or noise?


I'm using the H220 on a Sabertooth as well. Fits fine.

http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/RobilarOCN/media/P1050594_zps5d1abd72.jpg.html


----------



## King Nothing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I'm using the H220 on a Sabertooth as well. Fits fine.


Wow now THAT is sexy!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yeah I'm running it no problem. Even with the shroud on the Sabertooth Z77 it fits without any issues.
> 
> My H220 has been working great from day one. Temps are great, it's nice and quiet and no problems with the pump.


Rep +1 Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Yes i have tried it actually i unplugged the fans around it and the ones on my radiator, idk if you can really hear it in that video but its like a buzzing noise. I've sent this to the people at swiftech but still no reply and it's been a week, maybe they are on vacation. I am 100% sure it should not be making this noise because my friend has the same one and his does not have it. I tried the tips on removing the air bubbles but no results.


No, not on vacation just working on some other projects temporarily that took me away from customer and tech support. I've listened to the video and couldn't hear anything abnormal. To me it sounds fine, but that could be just due to the quality of the video. Is there any way that you can post a video that better represents the noise that you're hearing?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, not on vacation just working on some other projects temporarily that took me away from customer and tech support. I've listened to the video and couldn't hear anything abnormal. To me it sounds fine, but that could be just due to the quality of the video. Is there any way that you can post a video that better represents the noise that you're hearing?


If you turn up the volume you will start to hear the buzzing sound unfortunately I do not have any other recording devices better than my crappy note 3.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> If you turn up the volume you will start to hear the buzzing sound unfortunately I do not have any other recording devices better than my crappy note 3.


And the buzzing that you're hearing is louder than the fans? If so PM me and I'll help with getting a replacement. I think you already told me that the suggestions in the OP for removing air from the pump were not able to resolve your issue.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> And the buzzing that you're hearing is louder than the fans? If so PM me and I'll help with getting a replacement. I think you already told me that the suggestions in the OP for removing air from the pump were not able to resolve your issue.


I wouldn't say it is that much louder than the fans but it's audible if you were to stand close enough to the case but at a 2 feet distance you would not be able to hear it . I've tried tilting my case when the pump was running at full rpm n half .The other method that you've suggested from an earlier post was to take my radiator out of the case and move it around a bit


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Ok, so I read MOST of this thread and i got a few questions.
> 
> 1. I just ordered a H220 from NCIX and I'm wondering if this will have the molex or sata splitter.
> 2. Will it have the new impeller design or older single hole design.
> 3. Is it still advised to drain the loop to get rid of debris.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Does pump speed matter pass a certain %? I'd like to get it a little quieter since both the pump and fans get a bit noisy past 50%. I'm thinking of replacing the fans with NF-F12's and leaving the pump at 50% to get ti quieter.


it should have stata, new impeller design and no you shouldnt have to drain it


----------



## John Freeman

does this loop look okay to use with the h220?


----------



## 66racer

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Ok, so I read MOST of this thread and i got a few questions.
> 
> 1. I just ordered a H220 from NCIX and I'm wondering if this will have the molex or sata splitter.
> 2. Will it have the new impeller design or older single hole design.
> 3. Is it still advised to drain the loop to get rid of debris.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


Mine came in from ncix this week as well with the sata splitter like someone else mentioned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it should have stata, new impeller design and no you shouldnt have to drain it


Oh sweet so for sure the sata ones are the new impeller? THat was the only thing I was hoping it had but wasnt worried since Swiftech is so on top of their customer service. I have not had this peace of mind before with any other company.

Im still very curious what they have in store for CES with that new cooler


----------



## Mega Man

i think the h220 standalone pump and a stronger h220 with a independent power connector built into the pump and higher rpm ( i am betting 4500 rpm like gabe originally designed )


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think the h220 standalone pump and a stronger h220 with a independent power connector built into the pump and higher rpm ( i am betting 4500 rpm like gabe originally designed )


Yeah I was betting on 4500rpm with another ocn buddy, would be interesting if the h220 standalone pump was an option, I would like it for redundancy


----------



## King Nothing

I can only assume the new H220 version 2 will basically be a Glacer 240L.


----------



## M3TAl

For those who don't care about noise they could be doing a design based off their mcr220-xp rads with high FPI and high RPM fans.


----------



## Dudewitbow

h220x has to be something new. its just WAY to convenient for the post to happen a few weeks before CES, which starts 3 days from now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> h220x has to be something new. its just WAY to convenient for the post to happen a few weeks before CES, which starts 3 days from now.


i was also thinking it would be a pump block and rad kit. to get around the patent trolling


----------



## 66racer

Yeah but Im wondering how far will they push it since they already have an apogee drive 2 as a kit....Hum....

Man Fedex let me down, no h2o parts today to expand the loop.


----------



## SouthernStyle

Just wanted to post about my recent Glacer 240L upgrade, I see a lot of people here worrying about making the purchase. I'm not sure if I just got lucky or what...but this thing has *more* than made me happy. I came from an NH-D14 on my FX-8350. I was able to OC it with the D14 up to 4.6 on about 1.44v, and it would max out right around 60c. When I got the 240L I tore my entire system down, replacing every single fan and cable in the case.

Before I even tested the 240L out I took it apart, drained it, and then added an additional Alphacool NexXxos XT45 to it. I am using all CoolerMaster JetFlo 120s in my build - 11 total. 4 in P/P on the XT45 and 2 in pull on the 240L rad and the other 5 are my case fans in a CoolerMaster 690II Adv. I also have a NoiseBlocker 80x15mm fan behind the MB, and the fan from the stock FX cooler on my VRMs. The pump, NoiseBlocker fan, and all rad fans are connected to one Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter, and the rest of the fans are connected to another Swiftech splitter.

When I got the loop assembled and turned it on for the first time to start filling and leak testing, my heart dropped a little...I thought I had received a dud. It was literally inaudible, I had to feel it to make sure it was even on (with no fans mind you). Filling was extremely easy, and bleeding bubbles took no time at all, and I have yet to hear any noise of any kind from the pump. I have nothing but awesome things to say about the product and would highly recommend it based on my experience. I have now been able to OC to 4.7 which takes my chip a ridiculous 1.51v (1.536 with LLC) to be stable. Although I do have 2x8GB of G.SKill Trident X 2400 RAM running at full speed, the chip _will not_ stabilize at any higher clocks. At 4.8 and Vcore hitting *1.58v* under LLC it still fails Prime after about 45 mins and will only do about 3 passes on IBT AVX Maximum setting. Even during those runs with silly Vcore my temps did not reach 60c. I'm very tempted to get a 9370 to play with now that I know I have sufficient cooling.

Here are some screen shots of a couple runs I did just to show you guys some temps. I will take some pics of my actual setup and post tomorrow.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Just wanted to post about my recent Glacer 240L upgrade, I see a lot of people here worrying about making the purchase. I'm not sure if I just got lucky or what...but this thing has *more* than made me happy. I came from an NH-D14 on my FX-8350. I was able to OC it with the D14 up to 4.6 on about 1.44v, and it would max out right around 60c. When I got the 240L I tore my entire system down, replacing every single fan and cable in the case.
> 
> Before I even tested the 240L out I took it apart, drained it, and then added an additional Alphacool NexXxos XT45 to it. I am using all CoolerMaster JetFlo 120s in my build - 11 total. 4 in P/P on the XT45 and 2 in pull on the 240L rad and the other 5 are my case fans in a CoolerMaster 690II Adv. I also have a NoiseBlocker 80x15mm fan behind the MB, and the fan from the stock FX cooler on my VRMs. The pump, NoiseBlocker fan, and all rad fans are connected to one Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter, and the rest of the fans are connected to another Swiftech splitter.
> 
> When I got the loop assembled and turned it on for the first time to start filling and leak testing, my heart dropped a little...I thought I had received a dud. It was literally inaudible, I had to feel it to make sure it was even on (with no fans mind you). Filling was extremely easy, and bleeding bubbles took no time at all, and I have yet to hear any noise of any kind from the pump. I have nothing but awesome things to say about the product and would highly recommend it based on my experience. I have now been able to OC to 4.7 which takes my chip a ridiculous 1.51v (1.536 with LLC) to be stable. Although I do have 2x8GB of G.SKill Trident X 2400 RAM running at full speed, the chip _will not_ stabilize at any higher clocks. At 4.8 and Vcore hitting *1.58v* under LLC it still fails Prime after about 45 mins and will only do about 3 passes on IBT AVX Maximum setting. Even during those runs with silly Vcore my temps did not reach 60c. I'm very tempted to get a 9370 to play with now that I know I have sufficient cooling.
> 
> Here are some screen shots of a couple runs I did just to show you guys some temps. I will take some pics of my actual setup and post tomorrow.






have to ask did you bump cpu/nb and northbridge volts to help it get stable higher ?


----------



## SouthernStyle

Yea I tried everything I could. I even put overkill voltage just to see if it was even possible but nothing would work. I was pretty disappointed since I can finally handle the thermals, but find out my chip just isn't a good clocker at all. At least it has a pretty good IMC from what I can tell.


----------



## Mega Man

yours is not the first i have heard of this :/


----------



## M3TAl

My 8320 was absolute garbage. Couldn't pass P95/IBT with even 1.5+ V at 4.6 GHz. The cpu-nb wouldn't get stable at 2400 Mhz even with obscene amounts of extra voltage. It would start BSOD'ing after 4.6 GHz no matter the voltage. However I ran it 24/7 on an "unstable" voltage at 4.6 and never had one single problem in games/normal use.

Same goes for this 8350 on custom loop now. Currently at 5.04 GHz which fails IBT in 2-4 passes. Have played 3-4 hours of BF4 and multiple 3dMark/Cinebench runs so far without a single problem. If you're just gaming and doing things that don't peg CPU to 100% then IMO being stress test stable isn't really necessary.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I own Swiftech H220 and I wish to purchase Nvidia 780Ti GPU and loop it Swiftech.
> 
> This is the store I'm purchasing from: PC CASE GEAR
> 
> Can someone please tell me what components do I need to use for the job?
> 
> I know I'd like to use clear tubing and UV light.
> I will also require a GPU water block to fit the GTX 780 Ti.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated!
> 
> Thank you


You should get any block clearly marked for 780ti. Last year testing with Titan blocks indicates that EK and XSPC were winners in terms of balance between gpu, vrm and vram temps. Swiftech block was the best on gpu temps but the worse on the vrm temps. You can read about it here:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/

That's not guarantee the same results apply to 780ti. Also be aware that the test was done without the backplate and Swiftech block come with the backplate included by default. I heard Swiftech is releasing new blocks for the titan/780 family pretty soon. Bram perhaps can comment if they were updated somehow from the previous version.

In terms of the other parts you will need barbs/compression of the tubing size you will be using . H220 uses 5/8 x 3/8 (outer x inner) diameter and would make your life easier to stick with it. As for the upgrade go to swiftech home page and under h220 watch the video Bram did on expanding the loop of the h220.

Hope that helps

Gabriel


----------



## SouthernStyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My 8320 was absolute garbage. Couldn't pass P95/IBT with even 1.5+ V at 4.6 GHz. The cpu-nb wouldn't get stable at 2400 Mhz even with obscene amounts of extra voltage. It would start BSOD'ing after 4.6 GHz no matter the voltage. However I ran it 24/7 on an "unstable" voltage at 4.6 and never had one single problem in games/normal use.
> 
> Same goes for this 8350 on custom loop now. Currently at 5.04 GHz which fails IBT in 2-4 passes. Have played 3-4 hours of BF4 and multiple 3dMark/Cinebench runs so far without a single problem. If you're just gaming and doing things that don't peg CPU to 100% then IMO being stress test stable isn't really necessary.


That sucks, unfortunately being a graphic designer I do a lot of rendering and demanding effects that will absolutely require stability. I don't wanna have to buy a new monitor when I put my fist through mine after a crash or freeze lol. I'm planning on picking up another 280X soon then I'm gonna see if I can't talk myself into picking up a 9370 and see if I have any better luck.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You should get any block clearly marked for 780ti. Last year testing with Titan blocks indicates that EK and XSPC were winners in terms of balance between gpu, vrm and vram temps. Swiftech block was the best on gpu temps but the worse on the vrm temps. You can read about it here:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/
> 
> That's not guarantee the same results apply to 780ti. Also be aware that the test was done without the backplate and Swiftech block come with the backplate included by default. I heard Swiftech is releasing new blocks for the titan/780 family pretty soon. Bram perhaps can comment if they were updated somehow from the previous version.
> 
> In terms of the other parts you will need barbs/compression of the tubing size you will be using . H220 uses 5/8 x 3/8 (outer x inner) diameter and would make your life easier to stick with it. As for the upgrade go to swiftech home page and under h220 watch the video Bram did on expanding the loop of the h220.
> 
> Hope that helps
> 
> Gabriel


Swiftech has some gorgeous new blocks that will be announced at CES. There are pics of them on their FB page.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> For those who don't care about noise they could be doing a design based off their mcr220-xp rads with high FPI and high RPM fans.


I hadn't thought about that, but that does make a LOT of sense. Especially when you compare the XP vs QP rad and how the Galcier has focused fan speeds up to 2400.

See tables in post below:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My 8320 was absolute garbage. Couldn't pass P95/IBT with even 1.5+ V at 4.6 GHz. The cpu-nb wouldn't get stable at 2400 Mhz even with obscene amounts of extra voltage. It would start BSOD'ing after 4.6 GHz no matter the voltage. However I ran it 24/7 on an "unstable" voltage at 4.6 and never had one single problem in games/normal use.
> 
> Same goes for this 8350 on custom loop now. Currently at 5.04 GHz which fails IBT in 2-4 passes. Have played 3-4 hours of BF4 and multiple 3dMark/Cinebench runs so far without a single problem. If you're just gaming and doing things that don't peg CPU to 100% then IMO being stress test stable isn't really necessary.


if you have a rev 3 and attempt to get 2400cpu/nb via multi ( x12 ) ... well giga has some issues you might wanna try 2600 though it seems to be fine ( x13 )
lastly this is a great read and ill leave it here for you,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



please note you are welcome to do what ever you want, however stability does not only show itself at full usage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## Martinm210

Expanding on the H220X (XP core?) speculation.

Swiftech has all the data goods already done for comparison:

The H220 pump/block produces around .6GPM, so the 2.0LPM flow rate mark is a good approximate flow rate point comparison:









Swiftech notes this for DIY users:
Quote:


> We recommend using a radiator the QP series in applications where the fans will run in the 1200 RPM range or below. For higher RPM ranges, we recommend selecting a radiator in the XP series.


However, at DIY pumping power levels, you are often seeing 4LPM or higher.

If you look closely at the lower flow rate areas (2.0LPM), the XP doesn't actually get significantly better until the 2000RPM test and it really seems to like higher flow rates to squeeze the most out of it.

That's probably why the H220 (focused on 800-1800) was designed with the QP core, it's a bit better fit for the silence focused 800-1800 range, especially at 800-900RPM.

BUT.... if you are running 2000RPM+ all the time, the XP will edge out a little more performance.









The Glacier kit comes with 2400RPM fans, so in the 2000-2400RPM range, a more dense XP core would do a bit better.

Also if you run push+pull, you'll start seeing dense core benefits a bit sooner.

Anyhow...interesting, particularly in regard to flow rate which we often ignore. Flow rate does make a difference if you start splitting hairs between the fin density.

I want to see what that MCP50 is..


----------



## Phelan

I'm pretty confident the MCP50 is a high RPM variant of their In-house pump, since Gabe said before that when it was originally tested at 4500 RPM , it outperformed the MCP35X in flow and pressure. Whether it will require a different pump top than DDCs is yet to be seen, but if the H220 is any indication, the answer is yes.

On a side note, here's a news thread I posted to generate some buzz on Swiftech's new blocks. I'm pretty stoked to see the different colors- hopefully that means they have 5mm LED support so I can use my HUE







.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1456666/facebook-swiftech-to-announce-several-new-products-at-ces


----------



## SouthernStyle

I took a few (crappy) pics of my rig with the expanded Glacer 240L...sorry, iPhone pics, but its all I got for now. Check them out in my sig gallery.

Glacer 240L top mounted with CoolerMaster JetFlos in pull (exhaust). Alphacool NexXxos XT45 bottom mounted with JetFlos in push/pull (intake). Primochill Advanced LRT Pearl Green UV tubing (3/5-5/8), Bitspower fittings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I'm pretty confident the MCP50 is a high RPM variant of their In-house pump, since Gabe said before that when it was originally tested at 4500 RPM , it outperformed the MCP35X in flow and pressure. Whether it will require a different pump top than DDCs is yet to be seen, but if the H220 is any indication, the answer is yes.
> 
> On a side note, here's a news thread I posted to generate some buzz on Swiftech's new blocks. I'm pretty stoked to see the different colors- hopefully that means they have 5mm LED support so I can use my HUE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1456666/facebook-swiftech-to-announce-several-new-products-at-ces


hehe i am thinking about ordering a custom cover for my 7970 cfx bridges, ( clear ) just the plastic as i have to drill and put in a led to get them to light up like i want, i dont know if it is because of the sides not being polished but the dual bridge does not light up like i want


----------



## Phelan

Something like this?




Don't go with clear. Clear won't diffuse the LED lighting evenly through the plastic or acrylic. Go with a frosted plastic or acrylic, or do like I did and cut down a couple pieces of clear acrylic and sand the sides until it's frosted







.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice!

Hey guys am I mistaken or is the cpu block itself on this the same as the apogee drive 2, the copper part at least? Im wondering if there are any hybrid options later on to make it more like a drive 2 if I want/need more power in the future....guess though due to the cost of the mcp35x its still cheaper to get a drive 2 from a value POV but Im just curious since some guys in here have had both.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Hey guys am I mistaken or is the cpu block itself on this the same as the apogee drive 2, the copper part at least? Im wondering if there are any hybrid options later on to make it more like a drive 2 if I want/need more power in the future....guess though due to the cost of the mcp35x its still cheaper to get a drive 2 from a value POV but Im just curious since some guys in here have had both.


Yes, both the H220 and the APD2 have a Swiftech Apogee HD style copper plate.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Hey guys am I mistaken or is the cpu block itself on this the same as the apogee drive 2, the copper part at least? Im wondering if there are any hybrid options later on to make it more like a drive 2 if I want/need more power in the future....guess though due to the cost of the mcp35x its still cheaper to get a drive 2 from a value POV but Im just curious since some guys in here have had both.


I haven't tried it, but I bet if you "Cut off" the impeller shaft support piece, you could probably replace the H220 impeller/motor with an MCP 35X or any DDC pump motor. The volute portion looks identical other than the shaft support.

*H220*









the top looks very much like the Apogeet Drive II top and 35X pump volute except for that shaft support piece needed for the shaft type bearing on the H220.

*MCP35X*









Although, it would be hard to justify the cost/benefit. At most you might see 1-2 degrees with the increase pump power.


----------



## RnRollie

I was under the impression that the H220 pump was turning in the oposite direction vs an MCP35x... i could be wrong thou









As for the new MCP50.... maybe it is a variant of the Koolance PMP500 ???


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I was under the impression that the H220 pump was turning in the oposite direction vs an MCP35x... i could be wrong thou
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the new MCP50.... maybe it is a variant of the Koolance PMP500 ???


No, they are the same, spin clockwise if looking down on the impeller inlet.


----------



## crabula

How long should I leave my stock H320 running 24/7 before I top it up with distilled? I'd could check the level while it's in the PC, fillport is accessible, but I'm too scared of spilling anything in my new PC







Thx.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I was under the impression that the H220 pump was turning in the oposite direction vs an MCP35x... i could be wrong thou
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the new MCP50.... maybe it is a variant of the Koolance PMP500 ???


Swiftech manufactures electric motors now, so unless Swiftech makes the pumps for Koolance, they will not be of the same origin. Like I mentioned before, based on Gabe's info on the H220's pump, I always felt it was obvious their new in-house designed pump would be expanded beyond their AIOs. No way would they get into the electric motor business and design a motor with 3+ yrs R&D for a single product IMHO.


----------



## Theblackrain

Hey guys, i just wanted to add in my recent project to the forum. I decided my H220 was going to waste and my 7990 needed some watercooling goodness so I just wanted to show some of the results.

This is my setup:
AMD FX 8350
Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
Radeon HD 7990
Kingston HyperX Beast 1866mhz RAM
OCZ 256gb Vertex 4
WD 3TB Green drive
Cooler Master M2 Pro 1000w PSU
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2

First thing I wanted to do was to finally fix the AMD mounting system that Swiftech implemented. The mounting system on the H220 is probably one of the best out there but it has a couple of incompatibility issues with a some of Asus' motherboards. As far as I'm aware it's limited to the 990fx Sabertooth board and the Crosshair boards. For me the H220 could only be mounted in two orientations and both covered the closest RAM slot and made it unusable even with low profile RAM. So here's what I did&#8230;



I removed the AMD mounting plates and refitted them to the adjacent positions, beneath the inlet and outlet hose connectors. Originally I wanted mount them on the front side of the pump but the outlet port prevented me from doing this. With the plates on the back of the pump, this would mean that there would be extra stress on the tiny mounting screws which attach the plates to the pump so I replaced these with thumb screws which had the same thread but were twice as long, these thumb screws came with my fractal case. Once the plates were fitted I had to find a new way to mount it as the hose connectors were fouling the bolt holes. I decided to get some m4 x 30mm button head allen bolts as these could be placed in the holes prior to mounting the pump.

The AMD backplate then had to be adapted. I drilled out the backplate threaded holes with a 4mm drill and then, with all the 4 bolts in place, offered up the pump and passed the bolts though the motherboard and backplate.



Once in place I used 4 x 4mm knurled hand nuts and tightened the pump into place until I could not turn the nuts any more. As you can see from the pic, I not have the RAM slot back and the pump is not fouling any other components.

Next, the graphics card:



The 7990 gets really hot, especially during mining and particularly the master GPU or GPU1 so I decided to use the EK FC7990 waterblock and followed the instructions to mount it. I used tiny dabs of MX4 TIM on the phase regulators as well as the thermal pads and ofcoarse a thin layer on the GPUs using a plastic business card. I was surprised at how badly the orginal heatsinks were mounted, far too much paste which had dried like toothpaste and very uneven. After cleaning the paste off and removing the old thermal pads fitted the waterblock. The block was easy to fit and quality is amazing. The fittings used were XSPC chrome ⅜" ID - ⅝" OD as well as the Primochill Onyx tubing. I decided to fit the card into the bottom PCIE x16 slot as the tubing was getting a little kinked and would have needed an elbow fitting to work in the upper slot. Also, because i'm OCD, I didn't want my card drooping due to the weight so I placed a small piece of tubing between the top of the hard drive cage and the bottom of the waterblock to prop it up.

Next, the rad...



Due to the loop now needing to cool two 7970 GPUs, I decided that another radiator was essential and picked out the Phobya G-Changer V1.2 280mm, 60mm thick dual radiator. In order to fit the radiator, I had to remove the 5.25" drive bays but I have not used the bays since I bought the case. The bays were fitted using the frankly, rather flimsy rivets that could be pulled out with pliers but I decided to drill them out. I may refit a single bay or modify the case to accept a slot load drive somewhere else. I fitted the rad with four 140mm Swiftech Helix fans in push-pull, drawing air into the case. I connected the fans to the Swiftech fan head splitter but plan to get a 4 channel fan controller.



It's amazing just how much room is in the Arc Midi R2 case that all this can fit inside.

Once all the components were in place and all tubing had been cut and fitted, the loop was removed and filled on a work bench. I used Swiftech HydrX formula and distilled water, a little more than a litre of fluid was used to charge the loop and took about an hour to get all the bubble out and leak check the loop.

The loop was then fitted into the case...



I'm really pleased with the end result and for my first custom water loop, I think it turned out pretty good. Now my 7990 runs a 50 celsius and the 8350 runs at 47 celsius at 4.8Ghz.

Anyway, thanks for reading this, if you want any advice or info on anything I did then just ask.


----------



## John Freeman

could the h220 work just as a pump? like if i bought a new cpu block but just used the h220 block as the pump for my system would that work out? or just sell the h220 and buy a new pump


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> could the h220 work just as a pump? like if i bought a new cpu block but just used the h220 block as the pump for my system would that work out? or just sell the h220 and buy a new pump


LET ME TAWLK TO YA...

I have the 240L setup (so just the CM version), and I'm using only the pump / block and nothing else, not even the hose clamps.



Spoiler: Wow, much sexy...







Works like a freaking charm, HOWEVER, the 240L is powered differently, so just work it through with your PSU and all that jazz, and go from there!

EDIT: D'awww... this is an older pic, with the Z77 / 2500K, and old GPU.
I'll put a new one up with a better angle as well!

Thanks - T


----------



## Nexo

Can someone who owns a H220 tell me if it is reliable or not? Will it have problems after a few months?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theblackrain*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, i just wanted to add in my recent project to the forum. I decided my H220 was going to waste and my 7990 needed some watercooling goodness so I just wanted to show some of the results.
> 
> This is my setup:
> AMD FX 8350
> Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Radeon HD 7990
> Kingston HyperX Beast 1866mhz RAM
> OCZ 256gb Vertex 4
> WD 3TB Green drive
> Cooler Master M2 Pro 1000w PSU
> Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
> 
> First thing I wanted to do was to finally fix the AMD mounting system that Swiftech implemented. The mounting system on the H220 is probably one of the best out there but it has a couple of incompatibility issues with a some of Asus' motherboards. As far as I'm aware it's limited to the 990fx Sabertooth board and the Crosshair boards. For me the H220 could only be mounted in two orientations and both covered the closest RAM slot and made it unusable even with low profile RAM. So here's what I did&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> I removed the AMD mounting plates and refitted them to the adjacent positions, beneath the inlet and outlet hose connectors. Originally I wanted mount them on the front side of the pump but the outlet port prevented me from doing this. With the plates on the back of the pump, this would mean that there would be extra stress on the tiny mounting screws which attach the plates to the pump so I replaced these with thumb screws which had the same thread but were twice as long, these thumb screws came with my fractal case. Once the plates were fitted I had to find a new way to mount it as the hose connectors were fouling the bolt holes. I decided to get some m4 x 30mm button head allen bolts as these could be placed in the holes prior to mounting the pump.
> 
> The AMD backplate then had to be adapted. I drilled out the backplate threaded holes with a 4mm drill and then, with all the 4 bolts in place, offered up the pump and passed the bolts though the motherboard and backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> Once in place I used 4 x 4mm knurled hand nuts and tightened the pump into place until I could not turn the nuts any more. As you can see from the pic, I not have the RAM slot back and the pump is not fouling any other components.
> 
> Next, the graphics card:
> 
> 
> 
> The 7990 gets really hot, especially during mining and particularly the master GPU or GPU1 so I decided to use the EK FC7990 waterblock and followed the instructions to mount it.
> 
> 
> I used tiny dabs of MX4 TIM on the phase regulators as well as the thermal pads and ofcoarse a thin layer on the GPUs using a plastic business card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was surprised at how badly the orginal heatsinks were mounted, far too much paste which had dried like toothpaste and very uneven. After cleaning the paste off and removing the old thermal pads fitted the waterblock. The block was easy to fit and quality is amazing. The fittings used were XSPC chrome ⅜" ID - ⅝" OD as well as the Primochill Onyx tubing. I decided to fit the card into the bottom PCIE x16 slot as the tubing was getting a little kinked and would have needed an elbow fitting to work in the upper slot. Also, because i'm OCD, I didn't want my card drooping due to the weight so I placed a small piece of tubing between the top of the hard drive cage and the bottom of the waterblock to prop it up.
> 
> Next, the rad...
> 
> 
> 
> Due to the loop now needing to cool two 7970 GPUs, I decided that another radiator was essential and picked out the Phobya G-Changer V1.2 280mm, 60mm thick dual radiator. In order to fit the radiator, I had to remove the 5.25" drive bays but I have not used the bays since I bought the case. The bays were fitted using the frankly, rather flimsy rivets that could be pulled out with pliers but I decided to drill them out. I may refit a single bay or modify the case to accept a slot load drive somewhere else. I fitted the rad with four 140mm Swiftech Helix fans in push-pull, drawing air into the case. I connected the fans to the Swiftech fan head splitter but plan to get a 4 channel fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing just how much room is in the Arc Midi R2 case that all this can fit inside.
> 
> Once all the components were in place and all tubing had been cut and fitted, the loop was removed and filled on a work bench. I used Swiftech HydrX formula and distilled water, a little more than a litre of fluid was used to charge the loop and took about an hour to get all the bubble out and leak check the loop.
> 
> The loop was then fitted into the case...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really pleased with the end result and for my first custom water loop, I think it turned out pretty good. Now my 7990 runs a 50 celsius and the 8350 runs at 47 celsius at 4.8Ghz.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for reading this, if you want any advice or info on anything I did then just ask.


looks great and welcome !!!

with that said i highly recommend for future applications not spreading TIM

and here is a great video as to why ( say what you want about tek syndicate in this case... they are right in this case )


----------



## King Nothing

Just got it today! I had to wait for it to thaw out. The liquid was almost frozen when I pulled it out of the box. Thanks UPS!

In a 74F room.

H100: Idle- 39, Load- 66
H220: Idle- 34, Load- 45

Both with Noctua NF-F12 in pull exhaust.


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got it today! I had to wait for it to thaw out. The liquid was almost frozen when I pulled it out of the box. Thanks UPS!
> 
> In a 74F room.
> 
> H100: Idle- 39, Load- 66
> H220: Idle- 34, Load- 45
> 
> Both with Noctua NF-F12 in pull exhaust.


I'm praying that my h320 won't be frozen when I get back to my dorm room after break. Who knows if they shut the heating off haha

Nice, clean system you got there! looks good!


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> could the h220 work just as a pump? like if i bought a new cpu block but just used the h220 block as the pump for my system would that work out? or just sell the h220 and buy a new pump


It could but the copper pins in the base are fairly restrictive making the pump block only capable of about .6GPM max which makes bleeding a bit of a chore. I'm hope the mcp50 has an h220 compatible top that is sold separately. That would give the H220 and even better upgrade/mod path for those that decide to do separate components later or just want to change the block. We will see..


----------



## M3TAl

Haven't been paying much attention to CES. Anybody know what day it starts or more importantly what day Swiftech will be showing things off?


----------



## Mega Man

new komodos for new gen of blocks / limited edition blocks and new h220x kit and new pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Haven't been paying much attention to CES. Anybody know what day it starts or more importantly what day Swiftech will be showing things off?


It started today and I think we'll be showing our new products off either tomorrow or Wednesday. I think that's what the schedule said anyway.


----------



## Theblackrain

I'm a big fan of Tek Syndicate and I have already seen that video.
While I always use the pea method for the CPU heat spreader, I wasn't sure if it was appropriate for placing TIM directly on the silicone.
I did do some research into what other people used and even removed the waterblock after the first application to check the contact area.
The GPU temps look good so I think i'll stick with this method.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It started today and I think we'll be showing our new products off either tomorrow or Wednesday. I think that's what the schedule said anyway.


Ohh I can't wait, hope its tomorrow I have been checking feeds and Facebook periodically today lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It started today and I think we'll be showing our new products off either tomorrow or Wednesday. I think that's what the schedule said anyway.


Happy 2014 to all Folks. Bryan, if after tomorrow any web material show up on the new products can you kindly point that out here to us?


----------



## JohnReid

I received my Glacer yesterday, and it seems I'm a victim of pump noise... and, it appears, an under-filled rad.

I took it out of the package, and, before I installed it in my new build, decided I'd give it a test run using an old PSU. The pump immediately started making a *very* audible high pitched whine... I assume it was due to it running full speed (?). The noise only goes away if I place my hand on the top of the CM logo plate on the pump/block, which shows it's a resonance issue&#8230; but where the vibration comes from, and if it'll go away when installed is another question.

Thinking it _might_ be bubbles, I held the rad above the pump and went through the steps recommended in this thread to try to get the air worked through the system (tilting, gentle shaking with pump running).

While doing this, I heard a sound like water going down a drain that traveled from the rad down to the pump, which then started sounding like it was in a fish tank (with very clear gurgling noises coming from the pump/block)... on top of that, I could also hear liquid sloshing around in the rad as I moved it.

Starting to get pissed off, I combed through the forums some more, and tried removing the fill cap to get the air bubbles out. With the fill cap off, I could see the liquid level fluctuating in extremes depending on how the radiator was tilted... from a surface tension bead that bulged out of the fill port, to the level going a good distance below the fill port cap threading in the reservoir.

I fiddled with it for a few hours, tilting it this way and that, and the damn thing still obviously has bubbles in it.

So, I'd like some clarifications:

1) Does the pump, when attached to a PSU on a bench, run full speed?
If so, should there be a high pitched whine at full speed that can be heard in the next room? This is no exaggeration.. I have it running now in a sound-proofed studio recording space, and can hear the whining in the next room, even over the noise of my mini-split heater.

2) Is it normal for there to be sloshing noises in the rad new out of box, and such a range of apparent liquid volume in the reservoir?

3) I'm somewhat resigned to the fact that I'm going to likely have to flush the system and refill... which sucks given this is an AIO (yes, I know it's semi DIY, but this is for a work computer, and I'm losing money with it sitting idle).
If I decide to do this and _not_ return the product, am I going to have to use anything special for a liquid, or will simple distilled water be OK?

Thanks for any advice, and for the time taken. I'm starting to wonder if I got a defective unit, especially since it was under-filled at factory...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnReid*
> 
> I received my Glacer yesterday, and it seems I'm a victim of pump noise... and, it appears, an under-filled rad.
> 
> I took it out of the package, and, before I installed it in my new build, decided I'd give it a test run using an old PSU. The pump immediately started making a *very* audible high pitched whine... I assume it was due to it running full speed (?). The noise only goes away if I place my hand on the top of the CM logo plate on the pump/block, which shows it's a resonance issue&#8230; but where the vibration comes from, and if it'll go away when installed is another question.
> 
> Thinking it _might_ be bubbles, I held the rad above the pump and went through the steps recommended in this thread to try to get the air worked through the system (tilting, gentle shaking with pump running).
> 
> While doing this, I heard a sound like water going down a drain that traveled from the rad down to the pump, which then started sounding like it was in a fish tank (with very clear gurgling noises coming from the pump/block)... on top of that, I could also hear liquid sloshing around in the rad as I moved it.
> 
> Starting to get pissed off, I combed through the forums some more, and tried removing the fill cap to get the air bubbles out. With the fill cap off, I could see the liquid level fluctuating in extremes depending on how the radiator was tilted... from a surface tension bead that bulged out of the fill port, to the level going a good distance below the fill port cap threading in the reservoir.
> 
> I fiddled with it for a few hours, tilting it this way and that, and the damn thing still obviously has bubbles in it.
> 
> So, I'd like some clarifications:
> 
> 1) Does the pump, when attached to a PSU on a bench, run full speed?
> If so, should there be a high pitched whine at full speed that can be heard in the next room? This is no exaggeration.. I have it running now in a sound-proofed studio recording space, and can hear the whining in the next room, even over the noise of my mini-split heater.
> 
> 2) Is it normal for there to be sloshing noises in the rad new out of box, and such a range of apparent liquid volume in the reservoir?
> 
> 3) I'm somewhat resigned to the fact that I'm going to likely have to flush the system and refill... which sucks given this is an AIO (yes, I know it's semi DIY, but this is for a work computer, and I'm losing money with it sitting idle).
> If I decide to do this and _not_ return the product, am I going to have to use anything special for a liquid, or will simple distilled water be OK?
> 
> Thanks for any advice, and for the time taken. I'm starting to wonder if I got a defective unit, especially since it was under-filled at factory...


Yes, the motor does run full speed when hit wired to an external PSU, as the only way to slow it down properly is PWM modulation. It's unfortunate that you're having problems. TBH if you're in the states, it could likely be chalked up to a cold unit. In the inclement conditions we've been having, Swiftech records leaving the unit at room temperature for at least 24 hrs before running, though there's no way to add that recommendation to retail units. The weather likely played a part in the low fill and noise pitch as well, although the Glacer 240L is a little bit louder than the H220 because of it's extra RPMs. I would let it sit a little while in case there is any ice still in it, then try the air-purging directions in the OP, but with the pump hooked to the mobo so you can turn the pump speed to 50% or less and see if the noise is more satisfactory then, since no more than that is needed for optimal performance as an AIO.


----------



## JohnReid

Thanks for the reply, Phelan...

I'm in CT, so we dodged most of the greif that others on the East Coast and central states are dealing with. Still cold as a mothertrucker, but not like it is in Chicago. Eesh.









The retail box was in my heated office for around 5 hours before I opened it, and the rad didn't _feel_ cold to the touch when I took it out of the box, but who the hell knows if there were some ice crystals lurking in there.

I've been letting it run off the old PSU since I wrote my first post, and recently tilted the rad, and again got the water down the drain noise... should I just turn it off until I can get it hooked up to my mobo as you suggest?

*By the way, I removed the plastic CM logo cap from the pump/block and the whining noise went away*... now I just hear the gurgling. I think I'm going to have to apply some mass-loading material to it to give it some more weight. Lucky I have tons of the stuff from a recent competition car audio build!

Thanks again for your help...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Happy 2014 to all Folks. Bryan, if after tomorrow any web material show up on the new products can you kindly point that out here to us?


I'll do my best. I'm pretty busy here at the moment, but I'll do my best to post links to the info being put out on the new products.


----------



## Nexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll do my best. I'm pretty busy here at the moment, but I'll do my best to post links to the info being put out on the new products.


Better include the H220X







. I really excited to see how it looks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> Better include the H220X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I really excited to see how it looks.


One of the improvements that I really like about it is the see-through reservoir so you can actually see the fluid level without removing your fill-port cap. The improved CPU block is a nice touch too, and the ability to use any G 1/4 fittings. Actually, I guess there are several improvements that I like about this new kit.


----------



## agarabaghi

So have people been able to successfully cool say a:

i7 4770k (slight to no oc'ing)
R9 290x

Using (1) Glacier 240L + (1) 1 r9 290x water block?

Or do you need to fit another radiator between the cpu and gpu?


----------



## Heimsgard

Got my replacement H220 I am so glad it doesn't make a buzzing noise anymore after I go under 50%. Pump is pretty much silent now and cooler is working good. =)


----------



## agarabaghi

this is what im trying to achieve with the 240L ... will i be ok?


----------



## Dudewitbow

I would reverse the loop order, Reservoir(radiator in this case) recommended should feed the pump(cpu block). so rad/res > cpu/pump > gpu > rad/res


----------



## smithydan

Yes it would be okay, but three things

1) I would go CPU first(not a must)
2) It would be good to add another rad CPU>120>GPU>240
3) Cougar's PWM fans can give trouble mounting horizontally.


----------



## BramSLI1

You don't need to have the radiator in between the CPU and GPU. That isn't necessary unless that's the easiest way to route your tubing. The order of your components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. The coolant is moving quick enough that it evens out after a few minutes anyway.

I do recommend adding at least another 220 radiator into your loop though. I've had experience now with those cards and they are incredibly hot at load.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't need to have the radiator in between the CPU and GPU. That isn't necessary unless that's the easiest way to route your tubing. The order of your components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. The coolant is moving quick enough that it evens out after a few minutes anyway.
> 
> I do recommend adding at least another 220 radiator into your loop though. I've had experience now with those cards and they are incredibly hot at load.


I didn't tihnk of the pump placement, but if there is no air i dont think there shouldnt be an issue, right. I figured i would cool the gpu with the coolest water as it run the hottest first.

I don't have room for a 220mm rad, but i picked up anothe 120 swifech and 2 more fittings and might loop it in between the gpu and cpu with a fan blowing out the back of the case... That should help a good bit right?


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Yes it would be okay, but three things
> 
> 1) I would go CPU first(not a must)
> 2) It would be good to add another rad CPU>120>GPU>240
> 3) Cougar's PWM fans can give trouble mounting horizontally.


I have the fans currently mounted on my Cooler Master 240m with no issues in a push method.


----------



## Nexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> One of the improvements that I really like about it is the see-through reservoir so you can actually see the fluid level without removing your fill-port cap. The improved CPU block is a nice touch too, and the ability to use any G 1/4 fittings. Actually, I guess there are several improvements that I like about this new kit.


When do you think its going to be available to buy?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> One of the improvements that I really like about it is the see-through reservoir so you can actually see the fluid level without removing your fill-port cap. The improved CPU block is a nice touch too, and the ability to use any G 1/4 fittings. Actually, I guess there are several improvements that I like about this new kit.


Nice! Any pics to share yet!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I didn't tihnk of the pump placement, but if there is no air i dont think there shouldnt be an issue, right. I figured i would cool the gpu with the coolest water as it run the hottest first.
> 
> I don't have room for a 220mm rad, but i picked up anothe 120 swifech and 2 more fittings and might loop it in between the gpu and cpu with a fan blowing out the back of the case... That should help a good bit right?


Like I stated previously, the order of your components makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. You won't be dumping hot coolant from one component onto the next. Water cooling doesn't work that way. If it did there would be virtually no point in even doing water cooling. Just make sure that the inlet to the pump is fed directly by the reservoir and then just go the shortest distance between each component for as clean a look as possible.

Adding a 120mm fan radiator I really don't think is going to cut it with that card. Those are the hottest running video cards that I've ever seen. We water cooled a couple of them in a build for CES and their load temp was still in the mid 40s Celsius with an extreme water cooling system. I was quite surprised at how hot they were still running with the water cooling system we had built for them.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> One of the improvements that I really like about it is the see-through reservoir so you can actually see the fluid level without removing your fill-port cap. The improved CPU block is a nice touch too, and the ability to use any G 1/4 fittings. Actually, I guess there are several improvements that I like about this new kit.


Screenshots or it didn't happen.

Do you have anything up on FB or something? Currently at work so I can't see anything about it, and nothing in the news yet about the h220x.


----------



## Nexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice! Any pics to share yet!


I'm waiting for that too. I wonder how it looks now.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Like I stated previously, the order of your components makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. You won't be dumping hot coolant from one component onto the next. Water cooling doesn't work that way. If it did there would be virtually no point in even doing water cooling. Just make sure that the inlet to the pump is fed directly by the reservoir and then just go the shortest distance between each component for as clean a look as possible.
> 
> Adding a 120mm fan radiator I really don't think is going to cut it with that card. Those are the hottest running video cards that I've ever seen. We water cooled a couple of them in a build for CES and their load temp was still in the mid 40s Celsius with an extreme water cooling system. I was quite surprised at how hot they were still running with the water cooling system we had built for them.


Really im looking to cool it a bit more to reduce power consumption while mining, do you think it will run cooler than stock reference air with said setup?

If yes, then it should by all means run cooler with an extra 120 fan radiator right?

Im not looking for extremely cool temps (until i step up my case / radaitor sizes) but just to achieve cooler than reference temps and those noisy reference coolers...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Really im looking to cool it a bit more to reduce power consumption while mining, do you think it will run cooler than stock reference air with said setup?
> 
> If yes, then it should by all means run cooler with an extra 120 fan radiator right?
> 
> Im not looking for extremely cool temps (until i step up my case / radaitor sizes) but just to achieve cooler than reference temps and those noisy reference coolers...


What's your ambient temperature and how do you have the fans in your case setup?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Really im looking to cool it a bit more to reduce power consumption while mining, do you think it will run cooler than stock reference air with said setup?
> 
> If yes, then it should by all means run cooler with an extra 120 fan radiator right?
> 
> Im not looking for extremely cool temps (until i step up my case / radaitor sizes) but just to achieve cooler than reference temps and those noisy reference coolers...


the moment a waterblock hits the gpu, temperatures generally drop significantly compared to air cooling. Tis why the less WC enthusiasts are picking up brackets even faster, as they know that even a simple 120mm rad/block can significantly drop core temps, the only thing it doesn't help as much is VRM temps, which is what fan brackets/heatsinks and fullblocks are for


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Screenshots or it didn't happen.
> 
> Do you have anything up on FB or something? Currently at work so I can't see anything about it, and nothing in the news yet about the h220x.


You'll see them shortly. I got to work with these new kits because I helped Stephen install them for CES.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What's your ambient temperature and how do you have the fans in your case setup?


Right now i dont have the 290x installed of the 240L (they are on order).

Currently I have:

Front: Corsair AP 120 quiet edition @ 7v blowing into the case
Bottom: Cougar vortex 140 blowing into the case
Top: 240m radiator with 2x cougar 120 vortex pwm blowing through the radiator out the top of the case
Back: Corsair AP 120 quiet edition @ 7v blowing out the back of hte case
Video: XFX 7970 Double D
CPU: i7 4770 Cooled off the 240m

The house itself is around 75* ambient, but im not sure the case ambient.

When i run the rig at full mining speed the 7970 does 750hash @ 75-77*

The plans was to introduce this basic loop to the 290x and i7 4770 and game of that, while running cgminer off the 7970 and a g10 kraken / kraken x40 combo 100% of the time. When im not gaming I would load up another cgminer script that ran both gpus to mine.

So really im just looking to run it cooler and quieter than stock. That is until i get a proper case that can hold bigger rads etc...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Right now i dont have the 290x installed of the 240L (they are on order).
> 
> Currently I have:
> 
> Front: Corsair AP 120 quiet edition @ 7v blowing into the case
> Bottom: Cougar vortex 140 blowing into the case
> Top: 240m radiator with 2x cougar 120 vortex pwm blowing through the radiator out the top of the case
> Back: Corsair AP 120 quiet edition @ 7v blowing out the back of hte case
> Video: XFX 7970 Double D
> CPU: i7 4770 Cooled off the 240m
> 
> The house itself is around 75* ambient, but im not sure the case ambient.
> 
> When i run the rig at full mining speed the 7970 does 750hash @ 75-77*
> 
> The plans was to introduce this basic loop to the 290x and i7 4770 and game of that, while running cgminer off the 7970 and a g10 kraken / kraken x40 combo 100% of the time. When im not gaming I would load up another cgminer script that ran both gpus to mine.
> 
> So really im just looking to run it cooler and quieter than stock. That is until i get a proper case that can hold bigger rads etc...


OK, then adding the extra 120mm fan radiator will probably get you by with that configuration. I've got a customer on our own forum that tried to use an H220 to cool his 4770K and two 290x GPUs. Needless to say it didn't work out once the GPUs were on full load. With only one GPU on full load though he was OK. Not great, but OK. Load temperatures were in the low 70s. With an added 120mm radiator I would think you would be in about the low to mid 60s.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then adding the extra 120mm fan radiator will probably get you by with that configuration. I've got a customer on our own forum that tried to use an H220 to cool his 4770K and two 290x GPUs. Needless to say it didn't work out once the GPUs were on full load. With only one GPU on full load though he was OK. Not great, but OK. Load temperatures were in the low 70s. With an added 120mm radiator I would think you would be in about the low to mid 60s.


Oh wow, that is exactly what I wanted to hear.

Ill be sure to keep people posted. And put some pics up, im sure my first build will be very ugly ha.


----------



## Nexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll see them shortly. I got to work with these new kits because I helped Stephen install them for CES.


Good news that I will get to see it soon.







My excitement is over the roof.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I have the fans currently mounted on my Cooler Master 240m with no issues in a push method.


That's a good thing then


----------



## rack04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I have the fans currently mounted on my Cooler Master 240m with no issues in a push method.


I have 4 installed on my 240l horizontal and 1 has a horrible noise above 75% pwm speed. The other 3 work great.


----------



## rack04

The biggest issue I have with the 240L is the small fan screws supplied with the unit are too short to fit the flanges on the fans I have. I have to go try to find some to replace them that are 1/16" or so longer.


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I have the fans currently mounted on my Cooler Master 240m with no issues in a push method.


I had 4x cougars on my H100 in push/pull and a couple of them have developed a slight rattling. I'm sticking with the Swiftech fans for now, I think


----------



## M3TAl

Got 10x PWM Cougars. On voltage control they're all fine. Had them for over a year. Two of them make noises on PWM though, unfortunate







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> Better include the H220X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I really excited to see how it looks.
> 
> 
> 
> One of the improvements that I really like about it is the see-through reservoir so you can actually see the fluid level without removing your fill-port cap. The improved CPU block is a nice touch too, and the ability to use any G 1/4 fittings. Actually, I guess there are several improvements that I like about this new kit.
Click to expand...

... see below but epic,

i may have to pick up a new kit, and sell my current one ,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> So have people been able to successfully cool say a:
> 
> i7 4770k (slight to no oc'ing)
> R9 290x
> 
> Using (1) Glacier 240L + (1) 1 r9 290x water block?
> 
> Or do you need to fit another radiator between the cpu and gpu?


i would recommend an extra rad at bare min, if not a 240
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Screenshots or it didn't happen.
> 
> Do you have anything up on FB or something? Currently at work so I can't see anything about it, and nothing in the news yet about the h220x.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll see them shortly. I got to work with these new kits because I helped Stephen install them for CES.
Click to expand...

i r so jelly and hate you at the same time !!!!!!!


----------



## Snyderman34

*sigh* I think my pump went out again. Turned on the PC today and started BioShock. PC shut down. Started up and had GPU temps in the 80s and climbing (CPU 60s and climbing). Splitter is working (tested on all ports with fans) but pump will not work. Tried with PC assembled and by jumping PSU.Debating either going full custom or with a H100 and putting the R9 290 back to stock. IDK


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... see below but epic,
> 
> i may have to pick up a new kit, and sell my current one ,
> i would recommend an extra rad at bare min, if not a 240
> i r so jelly and hate you at the same time !!!!!!!


Yup going to start with a 120 in between cpu and gpu.

Man i hope i dont get a bad pump =(


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> looks great and welcome !!!
> 
> with that said i highly recommend for future applications not spreading TIM
> 
> and here is a great video as to why ( say what you want about tek syndicate in this case... they are right in this case )


lmao, spackling a CPU. I litteraly laughed out loud.


----------



## abbb

I just got my replacement H220 in the mail, and I don't think it's supposed to bulge like that.


http://imgur.com/BzdVf


----------



## 66racer

Anyone know without a doubt which side is the inlet?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Anyone know without a doubt which side is the inlet?


At 3 minutes into this video he detaches the outlet line. You may be able to tell there.


----------



## abbb

I don't think my new H220 pump is supposed to do this either: 



My pump makes alot of noise when it's set below 50 or 55%. When it's set to 55, the noise goes away. The video makes it seem quieter than it is, but you get the idea.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpantherrrxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> looks great and welcome !!!
> 
> with that said i highly recommend for future applications not spreading TIM
> 
> and here is a great video as to why ( say what you want about tek syndicate in this case... they are right in this case )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine has been running for a few months without issue, most people have zero issues, remember rma rate is ~3%
> 
> 
> 
> lmao, spackling a CPU. I litteraly laughed out loud.
Click to expand...

you never saw this ?




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> I don't think my new H220 pump is supposed to do this either:
> 
> 
> 
> My pump makes alot of noise when it's set below 50 or 55%. When it's set to 55, the noise goes away. The video makes it seem quieter than it is, but you get the idea.


was it frozen when you got it ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

inlet should be the left one(when the swiftech logo is on the bottom right). the block itself has labels on the side that tells you if its in or out last i recall.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> was it frozen when you got it ?


Oh. That may be a possibility. I got it yesterday and didn't open it until today, but it's been between 0F and 30ishF here, so it may have frozen before UPS delivered it. Maybe that damaged the pump too?


----------



## Opelee

Hopefully Swiftech H220X has a new redesign look of the pump where the barbs don't stick out so much and block the DIMM slots. Like to keep the pump right side up.


----------



## AlDyer

Is there a difference between the H220 and the H220X or is the H220X just slightly modified so that they can avoid the patent issues? I'm very happy with my H220, has been working great for a long time after some RMA issues


----------



## crabula

Are H220/H320's being discontinued? Disappeared off PCCASEGEAR's site, where I got my H320. Was about to recommend one to a friend, wonder why they stopped selling them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Is there a difference between the H220 and the H220X or is the H220X just slightly modified so that they can avoid the patent issues? I'm very happy with my H220, has been working great for a long time after some RMA issues


besides the little info that bram gave us.... no one knows we will have to wait till the announcement at ces
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Are H220/H320's being discontinued? Disappeared off PCCASEGEAR's site, where I got my H320. Was about to recommend one to a friend, wonder why they stopped selling them.


.....

http://www.swiftech.com/pr-7-19-13-h220-removedfromus.aspx

http://www.swiftech.com/prcoolermaster10-24-13.aspx

or you can buy the h220/h320 from ncix/ncix.ca


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> At 3 minutes into this video he detaches the outlet line. You may be able to tell there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> inlet should be the left one(when the swiftech logo is on the bottom right). the block itself has labels on the side that tells you if its in or out last i recall.


Thanks guys. I didn't see any labels but think I have the confirmation I needed. I may power the pump during the draining to confirm to be 110% sure. I didn't have much time yesterday to finish but hope today I can get it done.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thanks guys. I didn't see any labels but think I have the confirmation I needed. I may power the pump during the draining to confirm to be 110% sure. I didn't have much time yesterday to finish but hope today I can get it done.


Do NOT power the pump when draining. Running the pump without water in it will ruin it and void your warrantee as well.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> besides the little info that bram gave us.... no one knows we will have to wait till the announcement at ces
> .....
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pr-7-19-13-h220-removedfromus.aspx
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/prcoolermaster10-24-13.aspx
> 
> or you can buy the h220/h320 from ncix/ncix.ca


Thanks but I'm in Australia, I thought AU was unaffected. I think PCCG was the only store here that had 'em though, maybe there just wasn't enough interest.


----------



## agarabaghi

Any precautions i should take when my 240L arrives?

Should i just hooked it up and run it like an AIO unit, or should I check the level of fluids first?

I had planned on running it as cpu cooler + 290x on air to get temp readings and benchmarks

Then add the gpu block to the loop, get temp readings and benchmarks, and then at the extra 120mm radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> Is there a difference between the H220 and the H220X or is the H220X just slightly modified so that they can avoid the patent issues? I'm very happy with my H220, has been working great for a long time after some RMA issues


There are a number of changes that have been made to these new kits. There is very little between them that's similar in fact. You'll see once they're shown at CES.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are a number of changes that have been made to these new kits. There is very little between them that's similar in fact. You'll see once they're shown at CES.


Stop the teasers already Brian, you're killing us.


----------



## agarabaghi

Seriously and I haven't even gotten my 240l yet!


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are a number of changes that have been made to these new kits. There is very little between them that's similar in fact. You'll see once they're shown at CES.


Can't wait to see them


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are a number of changes that have been made to these new kits. There is very little between them that's similar in fact. You'll see once they're shown at CES.


Any upgrade program available from an h220 to the 220x kinda like evga does?







lol I just got mine but oh well


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Any upgrade program available from an h220 to the 220x kinda like evga does?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I just got mine but oh well


Sorry, but unfortunately at this time we have no such program.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Any upgrade program available from an h220 to the 220x kinda like evga does?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I just got mine but oh well
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but unfortunately at this time we have no such program.
Click to expand...

WHats the hold up, lets see this thing already


----------



## BramSLI1

H220X.JPG 690k .JPG file


H220Xradiatorreservoircombo.JPG 554k .JPG file


CESsystems.JPG 581k .JPG file


Standalonepump.JPG 527k .JPG file


Here you guys go. Some pictures to hold you over until one of the review sites does a video on these new products. Your thoughts are much appreciated.


----------



## agarabaghi

Wow that is nice! mannnnn now i want one!


----------



## thelude

Nice. I want to upgrade my H220 now,


----------



## BramSLI1

Here are some more to tide you guys over.

H220Xpic2.JPG 637k .JPG file


NewCPUblock.JPG 711k .JPG file


CrossfireR9-290X.JPG 635k .JPG file


SLIGTXTitan.JPG 585k .JPG file


NewMaelstromreservoir.JPG 534k .JPG file


----------



## Gabrielzm

Cool! (pun intended). So with that good bye patent issues. The pump, block and reservoir are now decoupled right? Any word on pricing? Can I trade in mine h220?

Cheers

Edit- Wow now I got it. The rad and reservoir and pump all fit together and they are suppose to go in a 5.25" bay? Wouldn't that cause issues with case compatibility or the rad can be also decoupled from pump/reservoir? Thks Bryan for the pics. Nicely done.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Cool! (pun intended). So with that good bye patent issues. The pump, block and reservoir are now decoupled right? Any word on pricing? Can I trade in mine h220?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Edit- Wow now I got it. The rad and reservoir and pump all fit together and they are suppose to go in a 5.25" bay? Wouldn't that cause issues with case compatibility or the rad can be also decoupled from pump/reservoir?


The pump on the H220X is built into the radiator. You will be able to purchase these pumps separately though. As far as trade in's go, I don't see that being possible at this time. The case we tested this kit on was the Cooler Master Cosmos II SE. It fit in the top of the case with enough room to still use the top 5.25 drive bay.


----------



## thelude

Judging by the pics, the fans has to be in pull configuration?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Judging by the pics, the fans has to be in pull configuration?


No, you can put them in a push configuration as well. You just can't use a push/pull configuration because the pump and barbs on the pump will interfere with fan placement. Push/pull doesn't make much of a difference on these kits anyway.


----------



## thelude

Thanks for the clarification Bram.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The pump on the H220X is built into the radiator. You will be able to purchase these pumps separately though. As far as trade in's go, I don't see that being possible at this time. The case we tested this kit on was the Cooler Master Cosmos II SE. It fit in the top of the case with enough room to still use the top 5.25 drive bay.


Any changes in the titan blocks besides the looks? I mean any change in the mill job of the block itself? I wish you guys already have the specs up in the web page, dying to see the hard data on pump, block and so on.

Cheers Bryan


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, you can put them in a push configuration as well. You just can't use a push/pull configuration because the pump and barbs on the pump will interfere with fan placement. Push/pull doesn't make much of a difference on these kits anyway.


push/pull is only possible with one of the two fan slots - it's not possible on the pump side.

Technical note often discarded in push/pull related discussions: Push/pull typically increases the airflow pressure by a little bit and add 3 dB/A in the process (assuming one uses the same fan for push and pull). That, will be equivalent to using a fan with slightly higher RPM (100-150 rpm typically) which will give about the same air flow pressure and the same +3dB/A.

In any case, a new fan needs to be purchased.

So technically, there is no real advantage of doing push pull. In many cases, there are space constraints that can and will prevent from doing push/pull. And if someone who has the space for push/pull really wants the head pressure, then a 38mm fan is definitely the way to go ^_^


----------



## thelude

Can you give us some specs on the pump. Interested in its rpm and flow rate. is it similar to the mcp35x?
And can you give us a detail on its release date and pricing for the whole unit? Very much appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## agarabaghi

Do you think the h220x kit (cpu / pump / radiator) has a chance of cooling 2 addition 290x water blocks?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Do you think the h220x kit (cpu / pump / radiator) has a chance of cooling 2 addition 290x water blocks?


Without expanding that's is pushing too hard. You only got a 240mm so far as I can tell and that is not enough for 3 blocks (cpu + 2 gpus).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Can you give us some specs on the pump. Interested in its rpm and flow rate. is it similar to the mcp35x?
> And can you give us a detail on its release date and pricing for the whole unit? Very much appreciated. Thanks.


It's very similar to the 35X in terms of RPM and flow rate. Stephen would be better equipped to give specific data though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Do you think the h220x kit (cpu / pump / radiator) has a chance of cooling 2 addition 290x water blocks?


There is a forum member on our forum that tried to do exactly that with just an H220. His temperatures were very close to what they were on air cooling and it also dumped heat on the CPU as well. With one of the cards disabled though his temperatures were considerably lower. Of course it also didn't sound like a 747 taking off either. Those cards are incredibly noisy with the stock air coolers.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Without expanding that's is pushing too hard. You only got a 240mm so far as I can tell and that is not enough for 3 blocks (cpu + 2 gpus).


Yea kinda glad to hear that, cause if not i would be super upset i bought a h220 haha....

Im starting off with cpu + 1 gpu on the h220 (cooler master version) + 120rad and hoping to get the temps a good bit below 90* at load....


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Can you give us some specs on the pump. Interested in its rpm and flow rate. is it similar to the mcp35x?
> And can you give us a detail on its release date and pricing for the whole unit? Very much appreciated. Thanks.


4,500 RPM with PWM control
~ 5 mH2O head pressure (vs 4.2 for the 35X)
Max discharge of ~ 15 Lpm (vs 18 for the 35X)
We'll published the PQ curves (complete specs) when we get back, but from 0 to 2 GPM the MCP50X has more pressure. The 2 curves intersect around 2GPM. The only case the 35X will give better performance would be in the case of an extremely high flow loop (>2 GPM) and still there the difference wouldn't be much.

we built and brought a pump test bench (gabe just published that picture on facebook) we are comparing flow and pressure of these 2 pumps.

Stephen


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> 4,500 RPM with PWM control
> ~ 5 mH2O head pressure (vs 4.2 for the 35X)
> Max discharge of ~ 15 Lpm (vs 18 for the 35X)
> We'll published the PQ curves (complete specs) when we get back, but from 0 to 2 GPM the MCP50X has more pressure. The 2 curves intersect around 2GPM. The only case the 35X will give better performance would be in the case of an extremely high flow loop (>2 GPM) and still there the difference wouldn't be much.
> 
> we built and brought a pump test bench (gabe just published that picture on facebook) we are comparing flow and pressure of these 2 pumps.
> 
> Stephen


Nicely done guys and wish you luck in the CES. Thanks a lot for sharing pics and data with us.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

What's the price tag on the H220x? Might just pick this up now that I moved to a larger case.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> What's the price tag on the H220x? Might just pick this up now that I moved to a larger case.


we've announced $149.99 to the press.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There is a forum member on our forum that tried to do exactly that with just an H220. His temperatures were very close to what they were on air cooling and it also dumped heat on the CPU as well. With one of the cards disabled though his temperatures were considerably lower. Of course it also didn't sound like a 747 taking off either. Those cards are incredibly noisy with the stock air coolers.


Yea, sorry for making you repeat yourself. Was hoping ( and not hoping) that the H220x would sold my need for more rads, but alsa ill be ok with the 240L and cpu / gpu block for now. Till i decide which route to go next!


----------



## Avonosac

I like the new block, sad to see such a brick of a radiator though. What is being done there to dampen the vibration sound from the pump? Also, how much range of motion do the barbs ??? have on the pump?

Cheers!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I like the new block, sad to see such a brick of a radiator though. What is being done there to dampen the vibration sound from the pump? Also, how much range of motion do the barbs ??? have on the pump?
> 
> Cheers!


These pumps are surprisingly quiet. The range of motion on the barbs is pretty good too.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These pumps are surprisingly quiet. The range of motion on the barbs is pretty good too.


Good to hear, but vibration of the radiator against the case. For your CES builds, did you use any rubber washers to reduce vibration?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Hmm. Not much more expensive than the current 240L.

Is the 240L going to be phased out or will we see a price drop in that? Not sure if you can answer this question since it's under CM.

Thanks!


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I like the new block, sad to see such a brick of a radiator though. What is being done there to dampen the vibration sound from the pump? Also, how much range of motion do the barbs ??? have on the pump?
> 
> Cheers!


as opposed to previous MCR Drive generations this one does have the pump decoupled from the radiator structure. The acoustics of the kit are better than of H220 although it uses the same pump motor and the same fans.

We have swivel fittings on all ports. ALSO (very important for tweakers!): As opposed to H220, ALL ports can be replaced by STANDARD G1/4" fittings.

We have 45deg swivel on the Apogee CL, a 90 degree (although it shows a 45 degree) on the pump outlet. The swivel that's on the radiator should have been a 90 degree too, but we're kind of liking the 45 degree so we may decide to keep a 45 degree there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Good to hear, but vibration of the radiator against the case. For your CES builds, did you use any rubber washers to reduce vibration?


No, we didn't use any vibration reducing material between the radiator and the case.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Good to hear, but vibration of the radiator against the case. For your CES builds, did you use any rubber washers to reduce vibration?


Not at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Hmm. Not much more expensive than the current 240L.
> 
> Is the 240L going to be phased out or will we see a price drop in that? Not sure if you can answer this question since it's under CM.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes this would be a question for CM


----------



## Phishy714

Thank you for the info on the MCP50X!

Any word on pricing and availability?


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Thank you for the info on the MCP50X!
> 
> Any word on pricing and availability?


only the pricing for the H220X has been defined (149.99) - and we're shooting for end of march, early april.


----------



## Yvese

Wow I love the new H220X! The block looks beautiful and I love how it's pretty much like a regular CPU block you'd find in a custom loop. One problem I have with the current H220 is installation can be tricky since the tubes on the block/pump extend outwards a bit, causing some clearance issues with some motherboard heatsinks and even a ram slot. It's great that that wont be an issue at all with the H220X!

Any word on performance differences between this and the old H220?


----------



## 66racer

Can I convert my h220 to a standalone pump down the road since its the same motor? Also are those new fittings able to work on the current h220?

Really cool guys


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Can I convert my h220 to a standalone pump down the road since its the same motor? Also are those new fittings able to work on the current h220?
> 
> Really cool guys


No, the original H220 pump was never meant to be converted into a stand alone and the fittings for the original H220 are not removable or replaceable.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> only the pricing for the H220X has been defined (149.99) - and we're shooting for end of march, early april.


Looks like the facebook post mentions *substantially* lower price and availability starting in March.

Sounds good to me! Only thing I would worry about with a smaller package and more performance is more noise/heat.

As you know, in low-restriction setups, the MCP35 series has been known to get very hot - any comments on the heat/noise compared to the MCP35X pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Looks like the facebook post mentions *substantially* lower price and availability starting in March.
> 
> Sounds good to me! Only thing I would worry about with a smaller package and more performance is more noise/heat.
> 
> As you know, in low-restriction setups, the MCP35 series has been known to get very hot - any comments on the heat/noise compared to the MCP35X pump?


From my experience with it the MCP50X put out virtually no heat and was nearly silent in the H220X.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, the original H220 pump was never meant to be converted into a stand alone and the fittings for the original H220 are not removable or replaceable.


True.

The housing that's on the MCP50X is 100% compatible with the pump that came with H220. If we (or third parties) decide to sell after market tops for the MCP50X, then you could install these tops on the H220 pump.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Looks like the facebook post mentions *substantially* lower price and availability starting in March.
> 
> Sounds good to me! Only thing I would worry about with a smaller package and more performance is more noise/heat.
> 
> As you know, in low-restriction setups, the MCP35 series has been known to get very hot - any comments on the heat/noise compared to the MCP35X pump?


That post refers to pricing and availability of the MCP50X


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Wow I love the new H220X! The block looks beautiful and I love how it's pretty much like a regular CPU block you'd find in a custom loop. One problem I have with the current H220 is installation can be tricky since the tubes on the block/pump extend outwards a bit, causing some clearance issues with some motherboard heatsinks and even a ram slot. It's great that that wont be an issue at all with the H220X!
> 
> Any word on performance differences between this and the old H220?


Expect slight improvements over H220 on newer CPU's since the Apogee XL was optimized for Ivy Bridge and Haswell. The radiator's got the same specifications in terms of tube size and fin density.

Stephen


----------



## thebto

So, availability of the H220X is what really has me intrigued, you mentioned a date before, but I belive that was for the MCP50X. Can we expect the H220X within the next 2 months? Or a tad sooner?

Also, how is US availability? I hope no problems.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So, availability of the H220X is what really has me intrigued, you mentioned a date before, but I belive that was for the MPC50X. Can we expect the H220X within the next 2 months? Or a tad sooner?
> 
> Also, how is US availability? I hope no problems.


Due to the revamped design there shouldn't be any US availability problems. I suspect that they will also be available towards the end of March/ early April.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So, availability of the H220X is what really has me intrigued, you mentioned a date before, but I belive that was for the MPC50X. Can we expect the H220X within the next 2 months? Or a tad sooner?
> 
> Also, how is US availability? I hope no problems.


End of march/april


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the revamped design there shouldn't be any US availability problems. I suspect that they will also be available towards the end of March/ early April.


This is an excellent middle finger for Asetek to stick up their namesake lol.

edit- yay, 2500 posts!


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the revamped design there shouldn't be any US availability problems. I suspect that they will also be available towards the end of March/ early April.


Most excellent! I do not mind waiting a bit more, this new product looks freakin' awesome. And as was pointed before me, a nice middle finger to Asstek.

Edit: 2500 posts, whoa! Phelan pls.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> H220X.JPG 690k .JPG file
> 
> 
> H220Xradiatorreservoircombo.JPG 554k .JPG file
> 
> 
> CESsystems.JPG 581k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Standalonepump.JPG 527k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Here you guys go. Some pictures to hold you over until one of the review sites does a video on these new products. Your thoughts are much appreciated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here are some more to tide you guys over.
> 
> H220Xpic2.JPG 637k .JPG file
> 
> 
> NewCPUblock.JPG 711k .JPG file
> 
> 
> CrossfireR9-290X.JPG 635k .JPG file
> 
> 
> SLIGTXTitan.JPG 585k .JPG file
> 
> 
> NewMaelstromreservoir.JPG 534k .JPG file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, you can put them in a push configuration as well. You just can't use a push/pull configuration because the pump and barbs on the pump will interfere with fan placement. Push/pull doesn't make much of a difference on these kits anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> push/pull is only possible with one of the two fan slots - it's not possible on the pump side.
> 
> Technical note often discarded in push/pull related discussions: Push/pull typically increases the airflow pressure by a little bit and add 3 dB/A in the process (assuming one uses the same fan for push and pull). That, will be equivalent to using a fan with slightly higher RPM (100-150 rpm typically) which will give about the same air flow pressure and the same +3dB/A.
> 
> In any case, a new fan needs to be purchased.
> 
> So technically, there is no real advantage of doing push pull. In many cases, there are space constraints that can and will prevent from doing push/pull. And if someone who has the space for push/pull really wants the head pressure, then a 38mm fan is definitely the way to go ^_^
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Can you give us some specs on the pump. Interested in its rpm and flow rate. is it similar to the mcp35x?
> And can you give us a detail on its release date and pricing for the whole unit? Very much appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4,500 RPM with PWM control
> ~ 5 mH2O head pressure (vs 4.2 for the 35X)
> Max discharge of ~ 15 Lpm (vs 18 for the 35X)
> We'll published the PQ curves (complete specs) when we get back, but from 0 to 2 GPM the MCP50X has more pressure. The 2 curves intersect around 2GPM. The only case the 35X will give better performance would be in the case of an extremely high flow loop (>2 GPM) and still there the difference wouldn't be much.
> 
> we built and brought a pump test bench (gabe just published that picture on facebook) we are comparing flow and pressure of these 2 pumps.
> 
> Stephen
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I like the new block, sad to see such a brick of a radiator though. What is being done there to dampen the vibration sound from the pump? Also, how much range of motion do the barbs ??? have on the pump?
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> as opposed to previous MCR Drive generations this one does have the pump decoupled from the radiator structure. The acoustics of the kit are better than of H220 although it uses the same pump motor and the same fans.
> 
> We have swivel fittings on all ports. ALSO (very important for tweakers!): As opposed to H220, ALL ports can be replaced by STANDARD G1/4" fittings.
> 
> We have 45deg swivel on the Apogee CL, a 90 degree (although it shows a 45 degree) on the pump outlet. The swivel that's on the radiator should have been a 90 degree too, but we're kind of liking the 45 degree so we may decide to keep a 45 degree there.
Click to expand...




wow amazing again, another huge step forward in the face of patent trolls, my hat is off to you guys, way to show another example of american ingenuity and creativity even with the moron who is at the steering of our country ~

you guys never cease to amaze me, this is why swiftech is and will be #1 !!!

thank you both for the answers and esp the pics,

few qs though

thoughts / comments / questions !~

1 will the new block be replacing the apogee hd or will they both be sold ? i am hoping both as the apogee hd is great in a mixed loop

2 will you be selling a dual pump top like the mcp35x2 !!! if so i will start converting all my pcs !!

3 dear god the ascetics just look amazing please please please on the gpu blocks, make sure to put the swiftech label on the back ! like on the titan ( iirc ) and the 7990 blocks !!!

4 i LOVE the new rad design very space saving, and if used in the top of a case, helps for people who want pump placement

stealth edit !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> So, availability of the H220X is what really has me intrigued, you mentioned a date before, but I belive that was for the MPC50X. Can we expect the H220X within the next 2 months? Or a tad sooner?
> 
> Also, how is US availability? I hope no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Due to the revamped design there shouldn't be any US availability problems. I suspect that they will also be available towards the end of March/ early April.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the revamped design there shouldn't be any US availability problems. I suspect that they will also be available towards the end of March/ early April.
> 
> 
> 
> This is an excellent middle finger for Asetek to stick up their namesake lol.
> 
> edit- yay, 2500 posts!
Click to expand...

+1 on all accounts... till they decide they invented watercooling ( ironically was DIY invented ) then... sigh...

stealth edit #2 please please! make a quadfire CFX bridge ! ( parallel of course ! )

just saw the 120mm rad... do i sense a h120? 140 and h140/240

by the end of this month i should have all 4 r9 290xs and cash waiting for 4 limited edition blocks ! please dont tell me you are going to limit me to one !! lol

another q... why dont you guys use rgb leds ? i know of a way to allow us to control them in the blocks, or via an external controller at very very little cost !


----------



## stephenm

Thanks









1. Yes, the Apogee HD will remain around for a few months at least or more if there is demand for it.
2. Yes, I'll finalize the details of the 50X2 for you








3. Thanks, we love it too! Sure about the Backplate.
4. Yes, the radiator is much shorter than the H220 rad, and also shorter than ANY 2x120 after market radiator. This radiator brings compatibility to a whole new level.

Stephen


----------



## Opelee

One question for Stephen and Bram, can you do a PUSH/PULL config on the H220X?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, you can put them in a push configuration as well. You just can't use a push/pull configuration because the pump and barbs on the pump will interfere with fan placement. Push/pull doesn't make much of a difference on these kits anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> push/pull is only possible with one of the two fan slots - it's not possible on the pump side.
> 
> Technical note often discarded in push/pull related discussions: Push/pull typically increases the airflow pressure by a little bit and add 3 dB/A in the process (assuming one uses the same fan for push and pull). That, will be equivalent to using a fan with slightly higher RPM (100-150 rpm typically) which will give about the same air flow pressure and the same +3dB/A.
> 
> In any case, a new fan needs to be purchased.
> 
> So technically, there is no real advantage of doing push pull. In many cases, there are space constraints that can and will prevent from doing push/pull. And if someone who has the space for push/pull really wants the head pressure, then a 38mm fan is definitely the way to go ^_^
Click to expand...

^^ he is their engineer iirc

although i do disagree in one regard thick rads imo they do help ( 60+mm )


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> One question for Stephen and Bram, can you do a PUSH/PULL config on the H220X?


It is not needed and the temp difference is 1c at most.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ^^ he is their engineer iirc
> 
> although i do disagree in one regard thick rads imo they do help ( 60+mm )


Don't get me wrong, adding a second set of fan (the same models) will always help, more or less depending on the radiator and the fans specs.

I am just stating that:

assuming 1800 RPM fans pushing on a radiator. You have the choice of either:
* adding another set of the same 1800 RPM fans on the other side as pull
* replacing the 1800 RPM fans by a set of stronger 2000 RPM fans

the result in performance and noise will be very similar at almost every fan speed. So unless, one's got the space to fit fans on each side of a rad, going with one just one set is usually the way to go.

Personally, if I had the space I would always go with 38's - practically I don't but that's because there is such a small pool of 120x38 fans to choose from...


----------



## Mega Man

i really need to get off my bum and try them !


----------



## eXecuution

The H220X looks pretty big... anyone have an idea if it should fit in a Corsair 750D? My friend's doing a build with the 750D and is looking for a nice CPU cooler.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> The H220X looks pretty big... anyone have an idea if it should fit in a Corsair 750D? My friend's doing a build with the 750D and is looking for a nice CPU cooler.


It is about 2" shorter than the radiator in the H220. It is also ~ 1" shorter than any 2x120mm radiator used in custom loops.
One of the 4 four corners of the radiators is thicker because of the pump/reservoir, but that is in an area where there is nothing to interfere: it clears the optical drives, clears the memory sticks, etc.

Just because of its shorter length, the H220X will fit in cases where the H220 wouldn't and not having the L shape reservoir on one hand gives more freedom in the installation to the case. (i.e. in case with large plastic tops [see the pics of the kit install in the CM Cosmos SE] you can now have the radiator inside and the fans outside [but still under the large plastic top of course]).

Stephen


----------



## Mega Man

remember the pump goes away from your mobo on the ram side


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> The H220X looks pretty big... anyone have an idea if it should fit in a Corsair 750D? My friend's doing a build with the 750D and is looking for a nice CPU cooler.


how i see the kit, theres a few things that it changes compared to the earlier h220.

1) I believe the block uses normal g1/4 ports(unless im looking at it wrong) and its no longer on the side no more but on the top, so ram clearance and mobo vrm clearance problem is eliminated
2) the new radiator design has some intuitive changes to it at the cost of other changes. with the new radiator design, there no longer needs to have an extended radiator for the reservoir, so the length of the rad is smaller, thus giving more compatibility with cases. the new reservoir pump area is offset on the actual radiator by an inch and then some. this was probably designed this way so that ram clearance would be possible, and the only real way to have incompatibilities with ram is if your ram sticks had the most ridiculous height to them.

the radiator thickness should be not much big difference compared to your typical WC radiators(its possible the same size as the h220, which is only a few larger than a corsair h100(?))

so with the new kit, the main changes are probably
1)stronger pump
2) better cpu clearance, no longer blocks left most dimm slot nor vrm heatsinks(especially you upper end asus mobo users)
3) Reservoir redesign, Pump no longer in CPU block but as a seperate unit connected to the rad/res

at the cost of

1) cannot push pull on one side of the radiator, but the gains are minimal for P/P since the unit itself has a low FPI count

in the end, If the 750D can fit an h100(im pretty sure corsair would have their own cooler as compatible right?) then this unit should technically fit unless ram height becomes a problem.


----------



## stephenm

The 750D is pretty large. As long as it's got mounting holes for 2x 120mm (which I can't tell from the pictures), there is no doubt the H220X will fit!


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> how i see the kit, theres a few things that it changes compared to the earlier h220.
> 
> 1) I believe the block uses normal g1/4 ports(unless im looking at it wrong) and its no longer on the side no more but on the top, so ram clearance and mobo vrm clearance problem is eliminated
> 2) the new radiator design has some intuitive changes to it at the cost of other changes. with the new radiator design, there no longer needs to have an extended radiator for the reservoir, so the length of the rad is smaller, thus giving more compatibility with cases. the new reservoir pump area is offset on the actual radiator by an inch and then some. this was probably designed this way so that ram clearance would be possible, and the only real way to have incompatibilities with ram is if your ram sticks had the most ridiculous height to them.
> 
> the radiator thickness should be not much big difference compared to your typical WC radiators(its possible the same size as the h220, which is only a few larger than a corsair h100(?))
> 
> so with the new kit, the main changes are probably
> 1)stronger pump
> 2) better cpu clearance, no longer blocks left most dimm slot nor vrm heatsinks(especially you upper end asus mobo users)
> 3) Reservoir redesign, Pump no longer in CPU block but as a seperate unit connected to the rad/res
> 
> at the cost of
> 
> 1) cannot push pull on one side of the radiator, but the gains are minimal for P/P since the unit itself has a low FPI count
> 
> in the end, If the 750D can fit an h100(im pretty sure corsair would have their own cooler as compatible right?) then this unit should technically fit unless ram height becomes a problem.


right on for pretty much all of your points:
1. we are releasing the MCP50X, however the pump in the H220X is still going to be a 3,000 RPM pump for optimized acoustics (i.e. the gain in performance from going to 3,000 to 4,500 RPM is too small to justify the noise difference - for those of you familiar with the MCP35X, the MCP50X is about the same noise level)
2. yes, better CPU clearances - the foot print of the Apogee XL is smaller than that of APD2/H220
3. yes. push/pull only possible on 1 side - see my comments on this for more info/recommendations.

edit: the radiator is thinner than most radiators for custom loops. Another reason to ignore push/pull on H220/H220X is that one side (the side where the fans are not attached - out of the box) of the radiator's got its 6mm shroud removed to keep it as thin as possible and minimize thickness issues.


----------



## Martinm210

Nice! I must have some sickness...gotta have that new pump in my collection. I also can't stand not seeing the inner workings of the new block and 220x kit.

Also want to say kudos on the 220x, I really like where this has gone over the V1 h220. Going to the more conventional reservoir and res mounted pump should really make all the bleeding/filling noise related issues go away. It does limit the fan orientation options a little bit, but that should be well worth the improved pump/bleeding performance. I also prefer the standalone block and G1/4 fittings. I can't quite see how the 220x pump and res mounts but having the two integrated is a sure win on resolving air/bleeding issues. I like it!

Looking really good. If you need a pump test/review, I'd be up for coming out of testing retirement for a bit...







Available by PM..









My only worry is can production keep up with demand...








Great work!
Martin


----------



## michael-ocn

Oh... 220x looks like that might put a satisfying end to the pump noise problems and make it easier to fit into more cases too. Nice job Swiftech eng!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice! I must have some sickness...gotta have that new pump in my collection. I also can't stand not seeing the inner workings of the new block and 220x kit.
> 
> Also want to say kudos on the 220x, I really like where this has gone over the V1 h220. Going to the more conventional reservoir and res mounted pump should really make all the bleeding/filling noise related issues go away. It does limit the fan orientation options a little bit, but that should be well worth the improved pump/bleeding performance. I also prefer the standalone block and G1/4 fittings. I can't quite see how the 220x pump and res mounts but having the two integrated is a sure win on resolving air/bleeding issues. I like it!
> 
> Looking really good. If you need a pump test/review, I'd be up for coming out of testing retirement for a bit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Available by PM..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only worry is can production keep up with demand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work!
> Martin


how about you come outta retirement permanently !


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice! I must have some sickness...gotta have that new pump in my collection. I also can't stand not seeing the inner workings of the new block and 220x kit.
> 
> Also want to say kudos on the 220x, I really like where this has gone over the V1 h220. Going to the more conventional reservoir and res mounted pump should really make all the bleeding/filling noise related issues go away. It does limit the fan orientation options a little bit, but that should be well worth the improved pump/bleeding performance. I also prefer the standalone block and G1/4 fittings. I can't quite see how the 220x pump and res mounts but having the two integrated is a sure win on resolving air/bleeding issues. I like it!
> 
> Looking really good. If you need a pump test/review, I'd be up for coming out of testing retirement for a bit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Available by PM..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only worry is can production keep up with demand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work!
> Martin


Sounds great Martin
we'll shoot you an email when we get back to LA


----------



## Mega Man

so... would you guys do a tour if a die hard fan stopped by cali ??


----------



## stephenm

this shouldn't be a problem


----------



## Mega Man

*starts driving *


----------



## Yop

Will the pump inside the h220x be strong enough to push the water through the cpu block 2 gpu blocks and another 120mm radiator?


----------



## jumpman

What type/brand of thermal paste do you guys use with these?


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> The H220X looks pretty big... anyone have an idea if it should fit in a Corsair 750D? My friend's doing a build with the 750D and is looking for a nice CPU cooler.


I´m using ha H320 in my Corsair 750D and before that I was using an Cosrair H100....it will fit perfectly fine with space left for cablemanagement e.t.c !


----------



## JohnReid

Update on the pump noise issue I was having a few days ago with the Glacer pump/rad.

I topped off the apparently under-filled res with distilled water, and it seems to have quieted down (the water drain noise is gone, FWIW).

Finally got the kit mounted on my Asus Maximus VI Formula, and into my monstrously large Corsair Obsidian 900D (yeah, I want room to expand, lol). Powered it up for the first time last night, and it's pretty damn quiet, although I do still hear a faint whining/buzzing from the pump.

So this leads me to the next question... fan control, and more directly, control of the pump speed.

I currently use a Swiftech PWM 8 way splitter (connected to the CPU mobo header on the Maximus) to control the pump speed, 4 case fans (3x120, 1x140), and the Glacer rad fans (2x120), for a total of 6 PWM fans.

I replaced all of the fans with Noiseblocker BlackSilentPros, which have an operating speed range of 600-1500rpm.

Since Speedfan doesn't yet recognize my mobo or Win 8.1, I went the Asus Suite 3 route.

Fan xpert sees the CPU fan, and allows me a certain level of global control over the 6 fans, but I'm wondering if I should take the 3x120 intakes & the 140mm exhaust off of the Swiftech splitter and run them off of the mobo headers instead.

Dunno if this would allow me to lower the CPU fan speed (which controls the pump & rad fans via the Swiftech splitter) so I could perhaps get rid of the buzz.

Opinions?

Also, a big D'OH! when I see that Swiftech is coming out with a new setup. MIght have to use the Glacer as a front rad when I go crossfire with 290s


----------



## 66racer

Woo hoo! Powered up my PC with the new loop this morning before work. Tested for leaks and bled last night. Just need to get my fans all set up.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Sounds great Martin
> we'll shoot you an email when we get back to LA


Sweet!!!!


----------



## eXecuution

Great, thanks for the answers guys


----------



## Gabrielzm

More news and pictures:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7662/swiftech-enhanced-liquidcooling-options

Cheers


----------



## chartiet

I am having issues with my *5th* H220 unit/pump. The issue is when I turn my machine off and leave it off for longer than an hour, the pump wont start upon machine power up. I get a CPU Fan Error. If I keep trying to power up (power button on, hold power button off in bios after F1 to move past fan error message) and after maybe my 10th power up, the pump will all of the sudden start. The pump has been doing this after the machine being off EVERY time. This morning, after I turned my machine off last night, the pump would not start after trying at least 20+ power ups over an hour or so. The first units I had, ever since they first came out, would just stop working while running. Lately, the units have been seizing after being off for an hour or two.

I have read plenty of threads with similar issues with the same characteristics. I am not doing anything out of the ordinary. Not playing with PWM signals via software. Installed per the instructions. I am clueless. Its either 5 bad units or a hardware issue? Please ask questions and give ideas. I have tried just about everything I can on my end to figure this out. Thanks


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Oh sweet. 2x140mm in the works too??

Tempted to get that...


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> I am having issues with my *7th* H220 unit/pump. The issue is when I turn my machine off and leave it off for longer than an hour, the pump wont start upon machine power up. I get a CPU Fan Error. If I keep trying to power up (power button on, hold power button off in bios after F1 to move past fan error message) and after maybe my 10th power up, the pump will all of the sudden start. The pump has been doing this after the machine being off EVERY time. This morning, after I turned my machine off last night, the pump would not start after trying at least 20+ power ups over an hour or so. The first units I had, ever since they first came out, would just stop working while running. Lately, the units have been seizing after being off for an hour or two.
> 
> I have read plenty of threads with similar issues with the same characteristics. I am not doing anything out of the ordinary. Not playing with PWM signals via software. Installed per the instructions. I am clueless. Its either 7 bad units or a hardware issue? Please ask questions and give ideas. I have tried just about everything I can on my end to figure this out. Thanks


The most common problem would be hardware, specifically the motherboard not supplying 12V on its 4-pin CPU fan connector. That happens with some motherboards and when the pump is directly connected to it. This should not happen if you are using the PWM splitter (which, as you know, takes its power directly from the PSU). If you are using the PWM splitter, then it's gotta be a pump related issue.

Note that to avoid this issue, we changed the pump connectors so that it always takes its power from a SATA connector rather than the 4-pin.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Oh sweet. 2x140mm in the works too??
> 
> Tempted to get that...


yes it is!


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> The most common problem would be hardware, specifically the motherboard not supplying 12V on its 4-pin CPU fan connector. That happens with some motherboards and when the pump is directly connected to it. This should not happen if you are using the PWM splitter (which, as you know, takes its power directly from the PSU). If you are using the PWM splitter, then it's gotta be a pump related issue.
> 
> Note that to avoid this issue, we changed the pump connectors so that it always takes its power from a SATA connector rather than the 4-pin.


I most certainly am using the PWM splitter.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> I most certainly am using the PWM splitter.


Contact Bryan and I will follow up with him when I get back


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Contact Bryan and I will follow up with him when I get back


I'm taking care of it.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Contact Bryan and I will follow up with him when I get back


I have already, he will fill you in. My issues has just been so out of this world, I couldn't just keep it to myself. 5 units and counting, none lasting over two months, something has got to give. Bryan and I are grabbing straws... PWM Splitter? The last unit I sent back was not working when I shipped out, worked at first when Bryan fired it up, then left it running overnight and it stopped again. Its an electrical or physical debris issue in my opinion. Thanks Stephen and Swiftech CS.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> Contact Bryan and I will follow up with him when I get back


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm taking care of it.


And its this kind of customer support why I gladly still went with the h220 (thanks ncix)







Thanks guys for being to involved in the community as well.


----------



## timnswede

I am having a similar issue as Chartiet, but on my Glacer 240L. It happened last week at first. I turned my PC on and got CPU fan error. Turned it off and back on to see if it was just a random bug, but got the same error so I turned my PC off again. I opened my case and I was going to try to see if I could feel if the pump was on or not, but then I rebooted and it worked fine. It happened this morning again and I rebooted 4 times or so and it started working. I have the sata power cable connected and the PWM is hooked into my Motherboard's CPU fan header. My motherboard is an Asus Maximus VI Hero.


----------



## chartiet

Agree! I had people telling me to go ballistic after the 2nd or 3rd unit issues. IMO, its the best AIO, when working. That's why I wont jump ship in this case. I paid for a good working AIO. I just want the H220 to work and not have to worry about whether it will fail or not start every time I shut my PC down. Vetting these types of things keep everyone aware of issues and how they are dealt with. This is by no means a attack against Swiftech or the H220. More than anything, it is a testament to Swiftech's continued A++++ customer support. Am I happy my H220's keep crapping out, not at all. I am happy I have a great company supporting my bad luck







Although, I cant rely on this unit to run without failing, that's why I have moved my H220 into my backup/primary rig and roll with either custom WC or lately, a Thermaltake 2.0.

Again, take from this what you will. Thanks again Swiftech!

Correction, I have had 5 units and 4 RMA's. This will be my 6th unit and my 5th RMA.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

With there new one coming out, which will help with pump not being on the block.
The H220X I would get, even I have the H220.


----------



## selk22

So I plan to do a Mini ITX Kaveri build and have a question about my h220 CPU block/pump.

I am going to be getting a pump res combo to retire the h220 pump in my sig rig and would like to use just the block/pump to cool the APU in the new build.. I will be using a single 120mm radiator and am looking for suggestions or ideas on which rad to get?

It would be nice if it had an integrated res like the h220 rad to maximize space in a M-ITX box.

This will work right? Thanks for help here


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> So I plan to do a Mini ITX Kaveri build and have a question about my h220 CPU block/pump.
> 
> I am going to be getting a pump res combo to retire the h220 pump in my sig rig and would like to use just the block/pump to cool the APU in the new build.. I will be using a single 120mm radiator and am looking for suggestions or ideas on which rad to get?
> 
> It would be nice if it had an integrated res like the h220 rad to maximize space in a M-ITX box.
> 
> This will work right? Thanks for help here


First off which itx case will be used?


----------



## Watagump

Do I get kicked out of the club since my pump died on my H220 and I am now using air cooling? I really don't want to lose all my online friends over this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Do I get kicked out of the club since my pump died on my H220 and I am now using air cooling? I really don't want to lose all my online friends over this.


I'm sorry to hear about that. PM me so that I can assist you with getting it replaced.


----------



## ironhide138

Can you push/pull with the 220x? Or is the pump/Res in the way?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about that. PM me so that I can assist you with getting it replaced.


I know you would take care of it Brian, I really don't think I want to go back to liquid cooling. I have had 2 overheating issues, one with another brand, that's enough for me. Both times have been pump issues, I know I could get a RMA unit and sell it, but, I just don't want to go through it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Can you push/pull with the 220x? Or is the pump/Res in the way?


Only with one fan. The pump and reservoir block the ability to install a second fan for full use of push/ pull.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Only with one fan. The pump and reservoir block the ability to install a second fan for full use of push/ pull.


Does it block both spots underneath? I thought it only blocked one fan.


----------



## thebto

Check out this picture from Anand's coverage right here to get an idea of the underside.


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Does it block both spots underneath? I thought it only blocked one fan.


you can do push/pull on one slot. We had a discussion about whether or not we should have the holes for that slot. We decided to have them even though we're not going to push (haha) push-pull configurations


----------



## Phelan

Zing! good idea IMO, for aesthetics and haters alike. You and I are in agreement of the lack of necessity for it, but obviously several people are still hung up on it for various reasons.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> First off which itx case will be used?


Looking at the CM Elite 130 or 110 as an option.. I also really like the new Rosewill Mini ITX line

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147213
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147217
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147207

I know for a fact that the CM 130/110 can support a 120 rad. These other cases are new and some look like they can but I cant confirm that..

The case is something I can worry about when the time comes! I just need to know if the h220 block/pump would work for what I am planning (I don't see why it wouldnt besides space issues)
and I also need help picking which 120 rad would be the best option? Anything with an integrated res like the h220 rad would be ideal but if I end up needing a micro res I can live with it


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Looking at the CM Elite 130 or 110 as an option.. I also really like the new Rosewill Mini ITX line
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147213
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147217
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147207
> 
> I know for a fact that the CM 130/110 can support a 120 rad. These other cases are new and some look like they can but I cant confirm that..
> 
> The case is something I can worry about when the time comes! I just need to know if the h220 block/pump would work for what I am planning (I don't see why it wouldnt besides space issues)
> and I also need help picking which 120 rad would be the best option? Anything with an integrated res like the h220 rad would be ideal but if I end up needing a micro res I can live with it


Honestly while not ideal, if you bleed the system by flushing water through it you can get away without a reservoir. I did that with my modded h70 and antec kuhler 920 for about a month (basically had a res and then made them a closed loop again) on my current build and did not have temp issues. Its a pain but if space is that critical it can work. I had a gallon of distilled that fed the input of the pump and pushed it through the rad into the sink until I got all the air out; turned the pump off and closed the loop.

Also maybe hide a T fitting with a tube pointed up to catch air if you don't like that.

Its a little bigger than the ones you mentioned but what about the new corsair itx case?


----------



## timnswede

OK I just got the CPU fan error this morning again. Seems to only happen in the morning for some reason. Had to reboot it about 7 times this time and the temperature was at 70 on the 5th time or so I had to let it sit for a little so the CPU could cool down. It just seems like the pump does not want to turn on for some reason. Should I RMA it? The SATA power is connected directly from my PSU and is powering my SSD and the pump, and the 4 pin connector is connected to my CPU fan header.


----------



## jerrolds

Total new to watercooling, thinking of using the H320 as my gateway wc setup. Can anyone tell me exactly what else i need to include the XSPC 290X waterblock to the loop?

I'm guessing some 5/8" x 3/8" tubing, new coolant (should probably replace the existing one?), and 2xSwiftech 3/8" x 5/8" LOK-SEAL fittings? Probably going to buy everything from ncix.ca

Hoping H320 can cool an i7 [email protected]+ and a [email protected]+


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timnswede*
> 
> OK I just got the CPU fan error this morning again. Seems to only happen in the morning for some reason. Had to reboot it about 7 times this time and the temperature was at 70 on the 5th time or so I had to let it sit for a little so the CPU could cool down. It just seems like the pump does not want to turn on for some reason. Should I RMA it? The SATA power is connected directly from my PSU and is powering my SSD and the pump, and the 4 pin connector is connected to my CPU fan header.


These issues sound (my assumption) like there is something causing the pump to not rotate. My theory is that after I power down and the pump stops running, debris, air, plasticizer, or whatever settles into the pump and gunks stuff up. Only after a few power ups does the gunk get loosened by the heat from the cpu and the pump trying to spin. It is less likely that the issue is an electrical or intermittent problem. Ideas?

Yes, RMA. You paid for an AIO that should work every time. You should never have to try to power up your machine over and over and over again, crossing your fingers the pump will start while the CPU takes over temps hit after hit after hit, IMO.

Swiftech should be able to tell us since they are breaking down each RMA'd AIO to ascertain the issue. What is causing the pumps to not start up after being off for a period of time?

My last unit left me not working (after trying multiple times to get it running again), arrived at Swiftech working, they left running over night and by morning, was not running. I never learned what the issue was.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Honestly while not ideal, if you bleed the system by flushing water through it you can get away without a reservoir. I did that with my modded h70 and antec kuhler 920 for about a month (basically had a res and then made them a closed loop again) on my current build and did not have temp issues. Its a pain but if space is that critical it can work. I had a gallon of distilled that fed the input of the pump and pushed it through the rad into the sink until I got all the air out; turned the pump off and closed the loop.
> 
> Also maybe hide a T fitting with a tube pointed up to catch air if you don't like that.
> 
> Its a little bigger than the ones you mentioned but what about the new corsair itx case?


Hmm Okay! That will probably be what I end up having to do if I dont have room for a micro res.. Thanks for reply +rep!

I am not a fan of the 250d unless I was planning a more beastly rig... It was just a little bigger than I expected. Almost prodigy size.

Since most likely I will be using a kaveri APU and maybbbeee something like a 670 or 760 mini I don't need something that big. The main issue will be does the case give enough clearance between the components and the h220 block. I found this Rosewill and I really like this one! Its a little taller than the others but it looks like I wold have plenty of room for everything I need and being tall is not a problem!
www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147205
Looks like it has room for a 120 Rad maybe even a thick rad on the back fan there and the h220 block would have no problem with space in that layout

Any thoughts?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Hmm Okay! That will probably be what I end up having to do if I dont have room for a micro res.. Thanks for reply +rep!
> 
> I am not a fan of the 250d unless I was planning a more beastly rig... It was just a little bigger than I expected. Almost prodigy size.
> 
> Since most likely I will be using a kaveri APU and maybbbeee something like a 670 or 760 mini I don't need something that big. The main issue will be does the case give enough clearance between the components and the h220 block. I found this Rosewill and I really like this one! Its a little taller than the others but it looks like I wold have plenty of room for everything I need and being tall is not a problem!
> www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147205
> Looks like it has room for a 120 Rad maybe even a thick rad on the back fan there and the h220 block would have no problem with space in that layout
> 
> Any thoughts?


It will be tricky...on a side note rosewill must have just released these itx cases. I was considering going itx before getting my lian li t60 and didnt see any of these cases maybe 2-3months ago. They look like lian li cases.

I think the top of the h220 can potentially hit the radiator depending on the motherboard but I can see a decent 120mm and a single fan being ok, seems like most of the fm2+ mobos place the socket as far away from the I/O panel as they can, which would help you run a wider radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Honestly while not ideal, if you bleed the system by flushing water through it you can get away without a reservoir. I did that with my modded h70 and antec kuhler 920 for about a month (basically had a res and then made them a closed loop again) on my current build and did not have temp issues. Its a pain but if space is that critical it can work. I had a gallon of distilled that fed the input of the pump and pushed it through the rad into the sink until I got all the air out; turned the pump off and closed the loop.
> 
> Also maybe hide a T fitting with a tube pointed up to catch air if you don't like that.
> 
> Its a little bigger than the ones you mentioned but what about the new corsair itx case?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm Okay! That will probably be what I end up having to do if I dont have room for a micro res.. Thanks for reply +rep!
> 
> I am not a fan of the 250d unless I was planning a more beastly rig... It was just a little bigger than I expected. Almost prodigy size.
> 
> Since most likely I will be using a kaveri APU and maybbbeee something like a 670 or 760 mini I don't need something that big. The main issue will be does the case give enough clearance between the components and the h220 block. I found this Rosewill and I really like this one! Its a little taller than the others but it looks like I wold have plenty of room for everything I need and being tall is not a problem!
> www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147205
> Looks like it has room for a 120 Rad maybe even a thick rad on the back fan there and the h220 block would have no problem with space in that layout
> 
> Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> First off which itx case will be used?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the CM Elite 130 or 110 as an option.. I also really like the new Rosewill Mini ITX line
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147213
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147217
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147207
> 
> I know for a fact that the CM 130/110 can support a 120 rad. These other cases are new and some look like they can but I cant confirm that..
> 
> The case is something I can worry about when the time comes! I just need to know if the h220 block/pump would work for what I am planning (I don't see why it wouldnt besides space issues)
> and I also need help picking which 120 rad would be the best option? Anything with an integrated res like the h220 rad would be ideal but if I end up needing a micro res I can live with it
Click to expand...

i used QDCs and attached another set of qdcs with tubing and filled it above the loop QDCs ( at the time it was not a loop but a "u" shape ) and once all the air is out and the water level is above the qdcs i removed the qdcs attached to the tubing and connected the loop ( if this makes sense )


----------



## AsheyB

This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


Should be fine but you may not end up with quite as much of the original liquid back in the H220 as when you started -- most likely going to need a slight topping off. Just grab some distilled from your local Walmart or whatever and use that to top-off.


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Should be fine but you may not end up with quite as much of the original liquid back in the H220 as when you started -- most likely going to need a slight topping off. Just grab some distilled from your local Walmart or whatever and use that to top-off.


Awesome









Many thanks for the reply


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


Since you will do that take the opportunity and use a coffee filter to catch any debris in the liquid while draining or filling the loop again.


----------



## 66racer

So I did a video to show the sound of my setup for any that are interested. 240mm with stock helix fans and a 180mm in push/pull with silverstone ap181's









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


Yeah your good. The tip below is a good idea, my stock fluid had a small peice of plastic and some sort of solids in it that disolved when I touched it, so thinking some of the coolant that dried up when it was sitting on a shelf at ncix lol. When I put my loop together I just purchased a silver coil and used 100% distilled water.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Since you will do that take the opportunity and use a coffee filter to catch any debris in the liquid while draining or filling the loop again.


thats a good idea...maybe a small one so it doesnt absorb too much fluid.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


you can as a personal thing i dont like to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine but you may not end up with quite as much of the original liquid back in the H220 as when you started -- most likely going to need a slight topping off. Just grab some distilled from your local Walmart or whatever and use that to top-off.
Click to expand...

may not need to as he is shortening the tubing, but it never hurts and it is only ~ $1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> This may sound like a stupid question but is it okay for me to drain the H220, cut the original tubes (as they are too long) and refill with the same cooling liquid again or would I have to go a different route?
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> Since you will do that take the opportunity and use a coffee filter to catch any debris in the liquid while draining or filling the loop again.
Click to expand...

you can do this as well


----------



## Radmanhs

hey, i just got a h220 and i have a problem. it never happened before with my zalman lq320, but my pump every several seconds revs up, then "pops" and goes back to normal speeds. it just sounds like a suden drop of rpm's to me though.

is there an easy way yo set it to something like 50% and never have it move? on my mobo you have to make the rpms rise when you get hotter temps


----------



## Mega Man

bios settings


----------



## Radmanhs

i went there and it still set limits for me


----------



## Radmanhs

this is what it does


----------



## Diablo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is what it does


video is set to private, Rad.


----------



## Radmanhs

oops, there you go


----------



## agarabaghi

Is there any issue using coolant suck as ekwb in these loops?


----------



## Radmanhs

im also wondering what the waterblock portion should look like. mine isnt perfectly smooth, should it be?


----------



## herericc

So I just re-did my PC with a used ASUS Crosshair Formula mobo, which luckily posts and even boots to windows.

Before I rearranged everything the PC was working fine, no problems at all.

I'm now hearing horrible noises from my 1 week old swiftech H220 and the CPU is running at 52* and climbing by the time i get to bios temperature monitoring.

The CPU continues to rise in temperature until the PC switches itself off to prevent doing damage to the CPU.

What could have happened to my H220? I made sure not to bang it against anything, and it was working great last week.

The only difference in the H220 configuration is the Rad is now on the top of the case, and last week it was on the front/bottom of the case.

Please help, I want to play with my shiny new config!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> So I just re-did my PC with a used ASUS Crosshair Formula mobo, which luckily posts and even boots to windows.
> 
> Before I rearranged everything the PC was working fine, no problems at all.
> 
> I'm now hearing horrible noises from my 1 week old swiftech H220 and the CPU is running at 52* and climbing by the time i get to bios temperature monitoring.
> 
> The CPU continues to rise in temperature until the PC switches itself off to prevent doing damage to the CPU.
> 
> What could have happened to my H220? I made sure not to bang it against anything, and it was working great last week.
> 
> The only difference in the H220 configuration is the Rad is now on the top of the case, and last week it was on the front/bottom of the case.
> 
> Please help, I want to play with my shiny new config!


loud pump noise and rising temperature generally means there's an air bubble somewhere, and the pump isn't able to push water. I learned it the experience way too(twice actually, but i have it easier since i dont use stock tubing and can see how fast air bubbles move through tubing.)


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Is the new H220X a AIO ? if so, im gunna return this h220 and wait for the new one, hopefully the pump doesn't go out on me. my 2 week old h220 died but fortunately it was still in the 30 day return period at NCIX so i just got another one....


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> loud pump noise and rising temperature generally means there's an air bubble somewhere, and the pump isn't able to push water. I learned it the experience way too(twice actually, but i have it easier since i dont use stock tubing and can see how fast air bubbles move through tubing.)


I had similar issue but I couldn't see any tiny bubble throughout the res or tubes









think my air bubble got stuck in pump, seeing as whichever way i tilted or moved case nothing would appear, saw couple posts in several threads about it


----------



## Rotusquire

I have built my PC yesterday with an Swiftech H220. Was great until I did something with Asus AI Suite 3 and now my Swiftech H220 pump is running max RPM (3000) all the time. Lowest I can get it is around 2500RPM.

Please help me fix this problem. I just want the pump to run at lower RPM. I have tried connecting to both fan channel 2 and 3 and no luck to change this.

I have no idea how to control the pump speed in the BIOS nor in the program (it only let me go down to 2500RPM???). Please guide me to lower the RPM, I hate the noise. It only lets me have it at near maximum RPM or have the pump off which causes overheat.


----------



## AsheyB

Following up my question if it is okay to refill after cutting the tubes to a smaller size, I filtered the liquid everything was clean, however there is some still left, Iv let the system run over night and still its filled all the way to the top.

Its amazing how easy it was though i was very worried lol









Out of curiosity how important is it to use the PWM splitter, i have the NF-F12PWM rather than the stock ones, so was hoping to hook them up to the fan controller and the CPU one to the motherboard but it seems Swiftech are against that idea?


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rotusquire*
> 
> I have built my PC yesterday with an Swiftech H220. Was great until I did something with Asus AI Suite 3 and now my Swiftech H220 pump is running max RPM (3000) all the time. Lowest I can get it is around 2500RPM.
> 
> Please help me fix this problem. I just want the pump to run at lower RPM. I have tried connecting to both fan channel 2 and 3 and no luck to change this.
> 
> I have no idea how to control the pump speed in the BIOS nor in the program (it only let me go down to 2500RPM???). Please guide me to lower the RPM, I hate the noise. It only lets me have it at near maximum RPM or have the pump off which causes overheat.


Is there any issue using coolant suck as ekwb in these loops?

Try running thermal tuning. It should find the min and max of all pumps. Its in the AI suite for the me Sabertooth.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rotusquire*
> 
> I have built my PC yesterday with an Swiftech H220. Was great until I did something with Asus AI Suite 3 and now my Swiftech H220 pump is running max RPM (3000) all the time. Lowest I can get it is around 2500RPM.
> 
> Please help me fix this problem. I just want the pump to run at lower RPM. I have tried connecting to both fan channel 2 and 3 and no luck to change this.
> 
> I have no idea how to control the pump speed in the BIOS nor in the program (it only let me go down to 2500RPM???). Please guide me to lower the RPM, I hate the noise. It only lets me have it at near maximum RPM or have the pump off which causes overheat.


Channel 2 and 3 are not PWM regulated. All asus board are like that. Plug the pump in the provided pwm splitter (pump in channel 1). Plug the splitter in the molex (or sata) cable. Plug the splitter PWM cable to cpu_fan header. There you go. You should be able to control pump speed via asus fan xpert, BIOS or speedfan.

Hope that helps


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Is there any issue using coolant suck as ekwb in these loops?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Is there any issue using coolant suck as ekwb in these loops?
> 
> Try running thermal tuning. It should find the min and max of all pumps. Its in the AI suite for the me Sabertooth.


You can run any coolant.

I should have been more specific and meant any of the known good coolants, but to be safe, use manufacturers recommended coolant. I personally just use distilled water and a silver coil.


----------



## Beliar

Are there still any problems with the pump in H220? Or did Swiftech fix most of the probs with new revisions of the coolers?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Is the new H220X a AIO ? if so, im gunna return this h220 and wait for the new one, hopefully the pump doesn't go out on me. my 2 week old h220 died but fortunately it was still in the 30 day return period at NCIX so i just got another one....


Just an improved version of the H220. Doesn't come out until March/April though.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Are there still any problems with the pump in H220? Or did Swiftech fix most of the probs with new revisions of the coolers?


There was a revision but that was a while ago. I just got mine and is working good but seems if problems occur its after a few months of operation. I bought mine since its the best aio cooler without going 100% custom and their customer service is great in the case I do have a failure.

I just expanded my loop to add the GPU and a 180mm radiator and handles it easily.


----------



## Beliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> There was a revision but that was a while ago. I just got mine and is working good but seems if problems occur its after a few months of operation. I bought mine since its the best aio cooler without going 100% custom and their customer service is great in the case I do have a failure.
> 
> I just expanded my loop to add the GPU and a 180mm radiator and handles it easily.


Thanks for the info. Im thinking about upgrading the H100i either to H220 or custom. I can get the H220 just for 50$ if i sell the H100i


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Im thinking about upgrading the H100i either to H220 or custom. I can get the H220 just for 50$ if i sell the H100i


I modded my antec kuhler 920 to use my 180mm rad and modded my h70 to use longer hoses and the stock 120mm; well using the h220, ek universal gpu block, my 180mm and the h220 240mm I got good results. CPU is 5c cooler but the GPU is now 10c cooler







I play bf4 and peak at 41c on the GPU with a gtx770 at 1424mhz/1.33v

Oh and considering my setup is an open test bench the sound is very low. Pump isnt heard over the fans at high speeds. At about 50% I can hear a slight hum from the pump but that's because its like 3ft from my ear on an open case. Im sure in a normal case I wouldn't hear it at all.


----------



## Beliar

I just sold H100i, got new H220 for only 39$ more, got almost new Nexxos XT30 radiator for 25$ to expand the loop.

Gonna be testing and installing everything when UPS arrives in two days


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> There was a revision but that was a while ago. I just got mine and is working good but seems if problems occur its after a few months of operation. I bought mine since its the best aio cooler without going 100% custom and their customer service is great in the case I do have a failure.
> 
> I just expanded my loop to add the GPU and a 180mm radiator and handles it easily.


What gpu?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> What gpu?


Asus gtx770 with the physical volt mod since software isn't possible... No warranty but I would do it again. Got to bench at 1515mhz


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> You can run any coolant.


THIS IS NOT TRUE!

Please be careful what coolants you use in the h220 because some like the Mayhems coolant have been known to cause issues..

Please dont listen to him and do research on what coolants are compatible.


----------



## mmarkovich

Hi Guys,

I posted this in the Switech forum little ago, but no help so far.

I just unpacked H220 , I note that some fins are , bent -damaged, is his standard for this kind of rad?

Also Rad mounting little black (8) screw simply do not fit, I tried just screwing them into the Rad without mounting in the Case, but they do not go in, does a brutal force needs to be applied, also I tried some other fan screws like AP-15, but same thing, I attached some pictures they may not be the best, it was not easy holding a camera and screwdriver.

I also tried calling Swiftech Tech Support, one of the reason I went with Switech , because it appeared from many Forums that their TS is good, but the phone just rings booth the 888 and 310 not even getting a message to tell that they are closed on weekends.

UPDATE:

I pulled-out the screw from the opposite side of the Rad in another word from the side of the Rad that is holding Switech installed fans; and I just up-loaded these pictures as well, to me it appears that provided "little black screw" and the I one pulled "even smaller silver screw" are not of the same type of screws, I am not an expert for threads and lengths but even the blind person can see the difference, so did I got wrong screws.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Misha


----------



## Martinm210

+1 if you consider warranty important, you should always follow the manufacturers recommendations just to be certain they don't question it later.

Last I knew the h220 comes with Hydrx PM2:
http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM2coolant.aspx


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I posted this in the Switech forum little ago, but no help so far.
> 
> I just unpacked H220 , I note that some fins are , bent -damaged, is his standard for this kind of rad?
> 
> Also Rad mounting little black (8) screw simply do not fit, I tried just screwing them into the Rad without mounting in the Case, but they do not go in, does a brutal force needs to be applied, also I tried some other fan screws like AP-15, but same thing, I attached some pictures they may not be the best, it was not easy holding a camera and screwdriver.
> 
> I also tried calling Swiftech Tech Support, one of the reason I went with Switech , because it appeared from many Forums that their TS is good, but the phone just rings booth the 888 and 310 not even getting a message to tell that they are closed on weekends.
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> I pulled-out the screw from the opposite side of the Rad in another word from the side of the Rad that is holding Switech installed fans; and I just up-loaded these pictures as well, to me it appears that provided "little black screw" and the I one pulled "even smaller silver screw" are not of the same type of screws, I am not an expert for threads and lengths but even the blind person can see the difference, so did I got wrong screws.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Misha


The larger coarse threaded screws are meant to screw into the fan plastic only. i see silver and black coarse threaded screws. These are NOT meant for the radiator. Only the shorter and finer silver ones are made to fit. I believe they are 6-32 threading. They are meant to screw the fan on the radiator. The coarse types are meant to screw the case onto the fan.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> THIS IS NOT TRUE!
> 
> Please be careful what coolants you use in the h220 because some like the Mayhems coolant have been known to cause issues..
> 
> Please dont listen to him and do research on what coolants are compatible.


Your right







I should have been more specific. I have amended my original response.

Some coolants dies can build gunk in systems stain surfaces, etc.


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> The larger coarse threaded screws are meant to screw into the fan plastic only. i see silver and black coarse threaded screws. These are NOT meant for the radiator. Only the shorter and finer silver ones are made to fit. I believe they are 6-32 threading. They are meant to screw the fan on the radiator. The coarse types are meant to screw the case onto the fan.


Thank you for your input and if I understand correctly, I should then go to hardware store with the smaller silver screw and get a similar screw with the thread 6-32, the only remaining question is the length?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> Thank you for your input and if I understand correctly, I should then go to hardware store with the smaller silver screw and get a similar screw with the thread 6-32, the only remaining question is the length?


generally, your case should have given you the correct dimension screws for this kind of placement(at least mine did)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> Thank you for your input and if I understand correctly, I should then go to hardware store with the smaller silver screw and get a similar screw with the thread 6-32, the only remaining question is the length?


If you're trying to go all the way through the fan and into the radiator you want 6-32 x 1-1/4" (1.25"). Used these from the hardware store many times on a Kuhler 620 and 920 radiator.


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you're trying to go all the way through the fan and into the radiator you want 6-32 x 1-1/4" (1.25"). Used these from the hardware store many times on a Kuhler 620 and 920 radiator.


No I am just trying to attach the radiator to the top of the case, the fans are in push configuration on the opposite side of the Radiator, am I missing something here, does this means that Swiftech does not provide screws for this, their manual on installation is then wrong, they are showing screws Martin describe as one used to attach the fan to the Radiator...


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> No I am just trying to attach the radiator to the top of the case, the fans are in push configuration on the opposite side of the Radiator, am I missing something here, does this means that Swiftech does not provide screws for this, their manual on installation is then wrong, they are showing screws Martin describe as one used to attach the fan to the Radiator...


there are i think 8 of the 3 types of screws. 8 fan to case screws(the thick ones), 8 fan+rad screws(long ones) and the preinstalled 8 short screws(which generally are the same thread used for case screws). If you dont have any screws, remove the 8 preinstalled ones(using a thin screwdriver) and replace them with the long screws. then use the short screws you just removed and use them for case/rad screws(assuming you dont have any spare case screws to use.)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> there are i think 8 of the 3 types of screws. 8 fan to case screws(the thick ones), 8 fan+rad screws(long ones) and the preinstalled 8 short screws(which generally are the same thread used for case screws). If you dont have any screws, remove the 8 preinstalled ones(using a thin screwdriver) and replace them with the long screws. then use the short screws you just removed and use them for case/rad screws(assuming you dont have any spare case screws to use.)


Cheapest and easiest way is doing what Dudewitbow says. Or go to the hardware store and buy more of those short ones. I don't know the length though.


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> there are i think 8 of the 3 types of screws. 8 fan to case screws(the thick ones), 8 fan+rad screws(long ones) and the preinstalled 8 short screws(which generally are the same thread used for case screws). If you dont have any screws, remove the 8 preinstalled ones(using a thin screwdriver) and replace them with the long screws. then use the short screws you just removed and use them for case/rad screws(assuming you dont have any spare case screws to use.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Cheapest and easiest way is doing what Dudewitbow says. Or go to the hardware store and buy more of those short ones. I don't know the length though.


All of you replied Thank you very much, what the gentlemen above suggested actually crossed my mid, although I may actually move Swiftech fans on top of Rad with the longer screws and mount two AP-15 on the bottom of the Rad with original short screws.

Once again Thank you all and I am giving each + REP

Misha


----------



## Mega Man

please make sure to put the res face up as well


----------



## mmarkovich

I shall do that Sir!

Thanks,
Misha


----------



## mmarkovich

UPDATE:

Please see the pictures, I removed one of Swiftech fans and used the longer (steel) silver screw, I measured the length of that screw at 31mm, but if I use that screw it would damage the Radiator.

So I guess I would have to go and find additional 8 short screws for push-pull, or take one short and all longer ones with the fan and ask one of the guys from our Maintenance Department to cut the longer ones so they would stick out identically as far as length as the short one from the fan.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> Please see the pictures, I removed one of Swiftech fans and used the longer (steel) silver screw, I measured the length of that screw at 31mm, but if I use that screw it would damage the Radiator.
> 
> So I guess I would have to go and find additional 8 short screws for push-pull, or take one short and all longer ones with the fan and ask one of the guys from our Maintenance Department to cut the longer ones so they would stick out identically as far as length as the short one from the fan.


I heard of something called washers.


----------



## mmarkovich

Yes I know about them...

Not trying to bi picky, but when you buy a product like this, could it be possible to at least put the warning that the length of the screws provided may or may not be suitable for the every scenario, depending like i.e. thickens of the case plate, if one does not check you could easily damage the radiator when assuming that the length of the screws is designed to fit standard type of the case and standard 25mm thickens of the fan.

Again, I am on trying to sound to complaining, but this post was more of a heads-up for some other people out there, while I am in IT decades, this is my first WC build without having any experience is easy to make (costly) mistake.


----------



## M3TAl

Are you sure that will damage the radiator? 30mm is standard screw length for a radiator when using a 25mm thick fan.


----------



## Watagump

Before I went back to air cooling I also went through this whole thing with the right screws, push pull etc etc. You mentioned cutting them, that's why I brought up washers. Anyhow, the perfect combo is 6-32 x 1 1/4 screws, then buy #6 washers.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you sure that will damage the radiator? 30mm is standard screw length for a radiator when using a 25mm thick fan.


Damaging it is kind of a funny way to put it. Longer screws will hit just the fins, IMHO, it will not damage the rad as in cause a leak or hurt the performance. Now maybe using a 3" screw would be another story.


----------



## M3TAl

Well depends on the radiator. If you use a screw that's too long, say 35mm screw with 25mm fan you can puncture the channel in the rad. Then you have a leak and a useless radiator.

If my memory serves me correctly, the H220 rad's brass channels aren't directly under the screw holes? So it wouldn't be a problem?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well depends on the radiator. If you use a screw that's too long, say 35mm screw with 25mm fan you can puncture the channel in the rad. Then you have a leak and a useless radiator.
> 
> If my memory serves me correctly, the H220 rad's brass channels aren't directly under the screw holes? So it wouldn't be a problem?


Well we are talking about the H220 rad, so hence why I said its not going to damage it. The channels are not right under the screw holes, but they are close, some might say hitting the fins could transfer to pulling on the channel though. I cant say for sure if this would happen, I just made sure I had the proper screws and washers to do it right.


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you sure that will damage the radiator? 30mm is standard screw length for a radiator when using a 25mm thick fan.


I was looking how much short screw sticks out with flash light under the all possible angles and to me is unimaginable that the longer screw would not hit the rad fins.


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well depends on the radiator. If you use a screw that's too long, say 35mm screw with 25mm fan you can puncture the channel in the rad. Then you have a leak and a useless radiator.
> 
> If my memory serves me correctly, the H220 rad's brass channels aren't directly under the screw holes? So it wouldn't be a problem?


When I removed all original short screw, it was obvious that some of the screw did go in between the fins, however some, at least half show that, luckily short crews, are exactly line-up with Radiator fins, have I used the long one that would be the end of this Radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> Please see the pictures, I removed one of Swiftech fans and used the longer (steel) silver screw, I measured the length of that screw at 31mm, but if I use that screw it would damage the Radiator.
> 
> So I guess I would have to go and find additional 8 short screws for push-pull, or take one short and all longer ones with the fan and ask one of the guys from our Maintenance Department to cut the longer ones so they would stick out identically as far as length as the short one from the fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> Yes I know about them...
> 
> Not trying to bi picky, but when you buy a product like this, could it be possible to at least put the warning that the length of the screws provided may or may not be suitable for the every scenario, depending like i.e. thickens of the case plate, if one does not check you could easily damage the radiator when assuming that the length of the screws is designed to fit standard type of the case and standard 25mm thickens of the fan.
> 
> Again, I am on trying to sound to complaining, but this post was more of a heads-up for some other people out there, while I am in IT decades, this is my first WC build without having any experience is easy to make (costly) mistake.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well depends on the radiator. If you use a screw that's too long, say 35mm screw with 25mm fan you can puncture the channel in the rad. Then you have a leak and a useless radiator.
> 
> If my memory serves me correctly, the H220 rad's brass channels aren't directly under the screw holes? So it wouldn't be a problem?


this, they moved the chambers in this line to avoid just that

also to note i am using all hardware that came with the h220 ( long screws and all ) and dont have a leak


----------



## demps709

Hey guys, I think I have a defective pump. I've tried everything I can to try bleeding it but it sounds like more of a mechanical noise than flow noises or air bubbles. Here is a video i took real fast, this is with the fans unplugged, my PSU fan not on, and my GPU fan inaudible. Also I would like to apologize but an email notification makes noise twice in the video (damn work emails







)






Does it seem like I need to RMA? I've had it for a month and have just put up with it since it's only annoying and not loud at 0%. Kinda pissed that it was making this noise out of the box and Swiftech just revealed their new coolers.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> Please see the pictures, I removed one of Swiftech fans and used the longer (steel) silver screw, I measured the length of that screw at 31mm, but if I use that screw it would damage the Radiator.
> 
> So I guess I would have to go and find additional 8 short screws for push-pull, or take one short and all longer ones with the fan and ask one of the guys from our Maintenance Department to cut the longer ones so they would stick out identically as far as length as the short one from the fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I could be wrong, but I think the next shortest length is 1" (25mm) which will be too short. Instead, I'd just go pick up some washers so the screws don't go in as deep if you're worried about it. Just make sure the size is #6 (which you'll find at most hardware stores) and you'll be OK.


----------



## agarabaghi

CoolerMaster 240lL Glacier, expanded to the EKWD 290x waterblock.

Mining machine

Previous temps:
290x GPU: 90*F 860hash/sec

Current temps:
290x GPU: 57*F 860/hash/sec

https://imageshack.com/i/g9jkxkj
https://imageshack.com/i/f5a6eqj
https://imageshack.com/i/0yxokjj
https://imageshack.com/i/jj8a98j
https://imageshack.com/i/n1h1rzj


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this, they moved the chambers in this line to avoid just that
> 
> also to note i am using all hardware that came with the h220 ( long screws and all ) and dont have a leak


So does that mean that there were series of this rad that some of the chambers were lined up with screws like mine?


----------



## mmarkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I could be wrong, but I think the next shortest length is 1" (25mm) which will be too short. Instead, I'd just go pick up some washers so the screws don't go in as deep if you're worried about it. Just make sure the size is #6 (which you'll find at most hardware stores) and you'll be OK.


Will look into this
Thanks!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demps709*
> 
> Hey guys, I think I have a defective pump. I've tried everything I can to try bleeding it but it sounds like more of a mechanical noise than flow noises or air bubbles. Here is a video i took real fast, this is with the fans unplugged, my PSU fan not on, and my GPU fan inaudible. Also I would like to apologize but an email notification makes noise twice in the video (damn work emails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it seem like I need to RMA? I've had it for a month and have just put up with it since it's only annoying and not loud at 0%. Kinda pissed that it was making this noise out of the box and Swiftech just revealed their new coolers.


Honestly it sounds like air but could be mistaken due to hearing it through a speaker. I just expanded my loop and it made a similar sound till I got all the air out, now its silent. What helped me get the air out was having the h220 removed and rotating it while on. Also turning it off n on several times helped get the last of the noise out of the pump.

I would like to hear from swiftech but maybe thats why the pump is mounted on the radiator on the h220x as opposed to the cpu block, rather then only for copy right reasons. Less issues with air. I also think the corsair units dont have this problem because they simply dont flow much at all so air can get stuck in the corner of a rad and never be bothered. I know from experience due to my modding of an h70 and antec kuhler 920.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> CoolerMaster 240lL Glacier, expanded to the EKWD 290x waterblock.
> 
> Mining machine
> 
> Previous temps:
> 290x GPU: 90*F 860hash/sec
> 
> Current temps:
> 290x GPU: 57*F 860/hash/sec
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/n1h1rzj
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f5a6eqj
> https://imageshack.com/i/0yxokjj
> https://imageshack.com/i/jj8a98j


What coolant did you use? I was tempted to use fesser one for red since that was the last coolant I used (in blue) and didnt have issues. Instead I ordered a red led for my res and hope that fills the need for red in the reservoir that I wanted haha


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Honestly it sounds like air but could be mistaken due to hearing it through a speaker. I just expanded my loop and it made a similar sound till I got all the air out, now its silent. What helped me get the air out was having the h220 removed and rotating it while on. Also turning it off n on several times helped get the last of the noise out of the pump.
> 
> I would like to hear from swiftech but maybe thats why the pump is mounted on the radiator on the h220x as opposed to the cpu block, rather then only for copy right reasons. Less issues with air. I also think the corsair units dont have this problem because they simply dont flow much at all so air can get stuck in the corner of a rad and never be bothered. I know from experience due to my modding of an h70 and antec kuhler 920.
> What coolant did you use? I was tempted to use fesser one for red since that was the last coolant I used (in blue) and didnt have issues. Instead I ordered a red led for my res and hope that fills the need for red in the reservoir that I wanted haha


EKWB blood red. I seems ok. Temps are holding steady now.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> EKWB blood red. I seems ok. Temps are holding steady now.


Thanks, at least I know the color would be nice









btw I hate you miners (in a friendly way







) because I was hoping to get a r9 290 when the aftermarket coolers came out but prices SKYROCKETED before that ever happened. Oh well, my 770 is more than enough for 1080p, I just have an upgrade addiction


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thanks, at least I know the color would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw I hate you miners (in a friendly way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) because I was hoping to get a r9 290 when the aftermarket coolers came out but prices SKYROCKETED before that ever happened. Oh well, my 770 is more than enough for 1080p, I just have an upgrade addiction


I have a R9 290 ill sell you. It was installed for a day, then realize i wanted dual 290x's =( lol ... pm me if you are interested.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> So does that mean that there were series of this rad that some of the chambers were lined up with screws like mine?


I got mine pretty quickly after they came out, it doesn't have issues.


----------



## herericc

Hey guys!

I've got my H220 installed in the top of my case with push/pull fans going, and my FX 8320 is sitting at

IDLE
~25* core and ~40* socket

When I try to stress my processor with prime95 however, my processor's core temp quickly skyrockets, getting as high as 75* before I get scared and turn off the prime test.

The H220 is quite loud since I moved it from the front of the case, and WAS making horrific gurgling noises.

The SKYROCKETING temps have me rather confused, since if the cooler is capable of keeping my idle at ~25 core, why does it seem completely incapable of dissipating the heat when my processor is under full load? Is it possible that at the idle temperature the lower flow (due to trapped air) is still capable but at higher wattages it quickly becomes overwhelmed?

I am probably going to exchange/return the H220 tomorrow since I'm still within the 15 days from my purchase date.


----------



## M3TAl

I'm very familiar with the 8320 & 8350 on UD3 boards. First what voltage and clock are you running? The actual voltage it's running at 100% load, not what's set in BIOS. Is your UD3 Revision 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 3.0, or 4.0?

The 75 C temp. Is that the actual core temp or from the motherboard sensor TMPIN2? The only temp to look at is the actual core/package temp. AMD's recommended limit is 62 C.

The core temps are completely inaccurate at IDLE, they only get accurate at load. My 8350 says 19C right now. Impossible because my room is about 22 C right now. I've seen it say 8 C before in a 20 C room. It's just the way the temp sensor works for these chips.


----------



## herericc

Sorry I should have mentioned that I just upgraded from a UD3 to a Crosshair V Formula Z, and the highest VID on the cores reported is 1.337 according to HWinfo64.

I'm running at stock speed, with turbo core turned off, 3.5GHz, so these temps aren't making any sense.

The 75* was on the core temp, the highest socket temp was 57 (which seems very strange since in my experience the socket temp is usually higher than the core due to the way the heat dissipates, leading me to blame the cooler)

**Just updated my signature rig to reflect my mobo**


----------



## M3TAl

Something is definitely very wrong then. You're at stock and those temps are probably worse then the stock AMD cooler. With an H220 on stock 8350 you should get max load temp of like 35-40C maybe. Probably even better.


----------



## herericc

yea thats what I was thinking,

I tried to tilt the radiator and move it around and whatnot but ever since the gurgling bubbling noises happened, the pump has been extremely loud, to the point where I can hear it from the other side of the room, where before (last week before I upgraded mobo's and rearranged things) I couldn't hear it over my case fans.

Do you agree with my hypothesis about the cooler being able to dissipate a lower wattage due to pump issues?

Last week on my UD3 the 8320 was at 4.8GHz on prime 95 reaching a max temp of around 60ish.

The VRMs would overheat after about 10m of that but it works to illustrate my point. Unfortunately I couldn't get my UD3 rev 3 to stop throttling even with a forged copper heatsink on the VRMs and fans blowing directly on them, so I found this crosshair V on kijiji.

** also I know they recommend using the swiftech thermal paste, I decided I would rather use arctic MX 4 and again, last week the temps were well within the range i expected, same paste.


----------



## M3TAl

Either you have a massive air bubble in the pump so hardly any water flowing = bad temps (this has happened to me with a Kuhler 620 numerous times) or a very bad mount on the CPU.


----------



## herericc

well I already tried reseating the H220 once on the CPU, and I can see score marks on the copper around the edges of where it was contacting the 8320, and my pea-application of the TIM seemed to have been spreading out in a nice uniform pattern so I'm going to point the finger at the pump not providing adequate flow.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> well I already tried reseating the H220 once on the CPU, and I can see score marks on the copper around the edges of where it was contacting the 8320, and my pea-application of the TIM seemed to have been spreading out in a nice uniform pattern so I'm going to point the finger at the pump not providing adequate flow.


The reason for not flowing is because an air bubble due to the noise you described. The flow is like 50% of what it should be if your pump is cavitating. I saw it through my swiftech micro reservoir first hand during the bleeding process.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> well I already tried reseating the H220 once on the CPU, and I can see score marks on the copper around the edges of where it was contacting the 8320, and my pea-application of the TIM seemed to have been spreading out in a nice uniform pattern so I'm going to point the finger at the pump not providing adequate flow.


Have you tried the steps in the OP for removing air bubbles?


----------



## herericc

I solved my problem. Turns out when I read the instructions for mounting the AM3 brackets on the cooler, I mixed up which side they should be screwed in from. Temps are waaaaaaaay lower, ran prime for 10m and it only got up to 32*C.

I FEEL SO DUMB NOW

The crosshair V is supposed to have a incompatibility with the NB heatsink, which does get in the way slightly, but I think there is just enough room to slide the bracket under it.

What really surprises me is that I had the mounting brackets installed the same way when I was using the UD3 and I wasn't having the temperature issues. Maybe the NB heatsink was causing trouble for me in the configuration it used to be in and isn't any more!

Pump is still ridiculously loud at 100% so I have it on a chassis fan header and have it adjusted to 50% on speedfan.

Thanks for helpign me think through this issue guys! I'll definitely post my OC when I get it worked out. Aiming for 5GHz since I was at 4.8 on my crappy crappy UD3 rev3


----------



## M3TAl

5 GHz should be doable but man does the heat skyrocket once you get past 1.5 V. Good luck


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> I solved my problem. Turns out when I read the instructions for mounting the AM3 brackets on the cooler, I mixed up which side they should be screwed in from. Temps are waaaaaaaay lower, ran prime for 10m and it only got up to 32*C.
> 
> I FEEL SO DUMB NOW
> 
> The crosshair V is supposed to have a incompatibility with the NB heatsink, which does get in the way slightly, but I think there is just enough room to slide the bracket under it.
> 
> What really surprises me is that I had the mounting brackets installed the same way when I was using the UD3 and I wasn't having the temperature issues. Maybe the NB heatsink was causing trouble for me in the configuration it used to be in and isn't any more!
> 
> Pump is still ridiculously loud at 100% so I have it on a chassis fan header and have it adjusted to 50% on speedfan.
> 
> Thanks for helpign me think through this issue guys! I'll definitely post my OC when I get it worked out. Aiming for 5GHz since I was at 4.8 on my crappy crappy UD3 rev3


DO NOT RUN THE PUMP ON THAT CHASSIS FAN HEADER. It is not PWM modulated and will in at some point kill your pump.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## agarabaghi

Ok well running the machine overnight with the CoolerMaster 240L Glacier loop cooling 1 290x and 1 i7 4770k, and 1 290 on air my temps were as followed:

100% GPU use on BOTH cards

XFX R9 290x GPU 0 - 65*
XFX R9 290x GPU 1 - 78*
CPU - 56*

They are a bit high for water cool, but MUCH cooler than on air, which was:

XFX R9 290x GPU 0 - 91*
XFX R9 290x GPU 1 - 80*
CPU - 47*

So i my questions are, how much more Radiator will i need to run the 2nd GPU in this Loop. Would 240 + 120+ 140 be enough? Like i said I'm not looking for the lowest temps, just trying to stay way under what my Air temps were and reduce the noise this machine makes.


----------



## Beliar

For double R290 wich are the hottest cards on planet right now, i would ran at least 360 + 240 think rad.

I wouldn't go with AiO + modifications for this, this is not a way to cool those cards with water


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys how much better cooling would I get using the The swiftech H20-320 Edge over the swiftech h320 with its newer cpu block etc


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys how much better cooling would I get using the The swiftech H20-320 Edge over the swiftech h320 with its newer cpu block etc


They both have basically identical technologies, with the Edge having a faster pump. If only cooling one or two blocks through the stock rad, there would be less than 1*C difference.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks Phelan for quick reply not worth it for just the cpu


----------



## Phelan

NP


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> For double R290 wich are the hottest cards on planet right now, i would ran at least 360 + 240 think rad.
> 
> I wouldn't go with AiO + modifications for this, this is not a way to cool those cards with water


The 290X is only the hottest cards on the planet because the stock cooling is terrible. The single 240 rad in his case would cool the cards and CPU about the same as the air coolers. Another 240 or 140+120 would be plenty to get respectable, quiet temperatures. Also thick rads offer very little performance difference on their own, especially with lower fan speeds for silence.


----------



## herericc

Phelan, why does the header have 4 pins and work with speed fan if it's not 12v pwm? The CPU opt header doesn't allow me to change my speed, and I was hoping to use the CPU fan header for the CPU actual fans themselves. I'll check the spec to be sure, don't want to burn it out! The for the warning


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Phelan, why does the header have 4 pins and work with speed fan if it's not 12v pwm? The CPU opt header doesn't allow me to change my speed, and I was hoping to use the CPU fan header for the CPU actual fans themselves. I'll check the spec to be sure, don't want to burn it out! The for the warning


On any ASUS board the only two headers that are PWM are the cpu_fan and its extension (cpu_fan opt). If you are using one on those (preferably the first since allows control of pwm speed) you are ok. But do use the spliter to power the pump.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Phelan, why does the header have 4 pins and work with speed fan if it's not 12v pwm? The CPU opt header doesn't allow me to change my speed, and I was hoping to use the CPU fan header for the CPU actual fans themselves. I'll check the spec to be sure, don't want to burn it out! The for the warning


Talk to ASUS, they are the biggest offender of 4 pin headers with only voltage modulation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> On any ASUS board the only two headers that are PWM are the cpu_fan and its extension (cpu_fan opt). If you are using one on those (preferably the first since allows control of pwm speed) you are ok. But do use the spliter to power the pump.


Yep.


----------



## herericc

Well that sucks, hopefully ruining it for 3 hours on voltage control won't have done any lasting damage


----------



## AlDyer

The new H220X is a really cool idea, except for one thing. I could see people having some clearance issues in certain cases.. Maybe I missed something but it looks like the pump is sticking out in a really weird way. Maybe I am just crazy. If I ever upgrade the H220X will be seriously considered


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlDyer*
> 
> The new H220X is a really cool idea, except for one thing. I could see people having some clearance issues in certain cases.. Maybe I missed something but it looks like the pump is sticking out in a really weird way. Maybe I am just crazy. If I ever upgrade the H220X will be seriously considered


I think this is a fair point, but the people who cannot fit it therefor are not the target market. The H220 and Glacer 240L are still around for those that need that space







.


----------



## AlDyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I think this is a fair point, but the people who cannot fit it therefor are not the target market. The H220 and Glacer 240L are still around for those that need that space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Good point, I had forgotten that Swiftech made the Glacer


----------



## smithydan

No hands on overviews or reviews of the h220x yet?


----------



## Beliar

I wonder if the price is gonna be somewhere around H220 or a bit more. If it's gonna be like the H220, the H220 is gonna go down a bit, maybe to level up with H100i. Then Corsair would have to make something new, because the H105 is utterly BS.

If hovewer the H220x will be even more then H200, then it's gonna make no sense, becuase custom LC can be achieved with few dollars more >_>. I doubt it's gonna happen tho.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Well Everyone I have finally given up with this water cooler, as I am now On my second unit and yet again I have got problems I feel like as an AIO that is not meant to be touched for at least three years I have not gone past 5 months yet without getting a problem On my first unit I tried to sort out the air bubbles problem and It never went And I am not bothering to try again for the simple factor of its an AIO I should not have to be messing around with it so many times.
I have contacted Bryan about this issue and I am waiting for a reply I have also contacted The place I brought it from as I now want a full refund on this product as its give me nothing but problems.

I love the idea that Swiftech had going with this one but it really does not work that well I have never had so many problems in less than a year with my computer I hate to say this but Corsair can take my money now as at least They last the three years like they are meant to even if they are not as good in out right cooling I hope that everyone else has fun dealing with air bubble problems and pump noise But I sure don't.
I really hope that the new cooler pump thing that they showed off at CES this year is better as the Swiftech H220 in my eyes is a fail way to many problems and not been sorted out.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Well Everyone I have finally given up with this water cooler, as I am now On my second unit and yet again I have got problems I feel like as an AIO that is not meant to be touched for at least three years I have not gone past 5 months yet without getting a problem On my first unit I tried to sort out the air bubbles problem and It never went And I am not bothering to try again for the simple factor of its an AIO I should not have to be messing around with it so many times.
> I have contacted Bryan about this issue and I am waiting for a reply I have also contacted The place I brought it from as I now want a full refund on this product as its give me nothing but problems.
> 
> I love the idea that Swiftech had going with this one but it really does not work that well I have never had so many problems in less than a year with my computer I hate to say this but Corsair can take my money now as at least They last the three years like they are meant to even if they are not as good in out right cooling I hope that everyone else has fun dealing with air bubble problems and pump noise But I sure don't.
> I really hope that the new cooler pump thing that they showed off at CES this year is better as the Swiftech H220 in my eyes is a fail way to many problems and not been sorted out.


I hear ya, I have never had a CPU get too hot until trying liquid coolers. Lesson learned, they are just not for me. It isnt just a Swiftech one I had issues with.


----------



## smithydan

Cha, sad to hear.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I hear ya, I have never had a CPU get too hot until trying liquid coolers. Lesson learned, they are just not for me. It isnt just a Swiftech one I had issues with.


First?

That's nuts.

I'm not saying you can't keep a CPU perfectly happy and cool with air, but getting nothing but heating issues with AIOs, DIY AIOs, and custom?
The problem's YOU, my friend, in it's _entirety_.

Second:

If you don't like the way the 220 is treating you, grab the 240L (CM version), or even wait out the new 220X!

There's nothing to say you HAVE to run that one unit, and I have a 240L block, Swiftech Micro Res, Acool radiator and Corsair fans in a "ratboy" style setup, and it's flawless, so it's really each to his own experience, I guess.

Thanks - T


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> First?
> 
> That's nuts.
> 
> I'm not saying you can't keep a CPU perfectly happy and cool with air, but getting nothing but heating issues with AIOs, DIY AIOs, and custom?
> The problem's YOU, my friend, in it's _entirety_.
> 
> Second:
> 
> If you don't like the way the 220 is treating you, grab the 240L (CM version), or even wait out the new 220X!
> 
> There's nothing to say you HAVE to run that one unit, and I have a 240L block, Swiftech Micro Res, Acool radiator and Corsair fans in a "ratboy" style setup, and it's flawless, so it's really each to his own experience, I guess.
> 
> Thanks - T


I really see no point in buying the 240L as its nothing but the same as the h220 but diff fans and pump cover I will not be wasting my time with that Thanks. and the 220x just takes up way to much space I can only just get the h220 in my phantom 410 as it only fits one way


----------



## Scorpion667

Just snagged a second H220 on sale with free shipping =D

Gotta love NCIX sometimes.

but, but I can't vote again in the poll! boo


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> First?
> 
> That's nuts.
> 
> I'm not saying you can't keep a CPU perfectly happy and cool with air, but getting nothing but heating issues with AIOs, DIY AIOs, and custom?
> The problem's YOU, my friend, in it's _entirety_.
> 
> Second:
> 
> If you don't like the way the 220 is treating you, grab the 240L (CM version), or even wait out the new 220X!
> 
> There's nothing to say you HAVE to run that one unit, and I have a 240L block, Swiftech Micro Res, Acool radiator and Corsair fans in a "ratboy" style setup, and it's flawless, so it's really each to his own experience, I guess.
> 
> Thanks - T


How is the problem me? 2 pumps died on 2 units from different companies, yeah that's MY fault.


----------



## NIK1

What's the 220 X.


----------



## 66racer

All I know is my h220 is running great!







If it fails at least swiftech is local


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> What's the 220 X.


It's the new version of the H220 that we showcased at CES last week. It will be available end of March or early April.


----------



## agarabaghi

Well i added i a 120mm rad into my loop.

Im pretty sure im doing the most ghetto but working job of removing all air bubbles. I fix each piece of the loop, 1 240 Glacier Rad, 1 120 swiftech, 1 i7 4770k with pump, 1 ekwb 290x water block.

Running great so far... about 53* gpu / 46* Cpu when running 100% mining. I think 1 more 120 would be enough to get 2x 290x and the cpu in the low 60s which for me is plenty cool compared to what they were running before.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> For double R290 wich are the hottest cards on planet right now, i would ran at least 360 + 240 think rad.
> 
> I wouldn't go with AiO + modifications for this, this is not a way to cool those cards with water


um the h220 would be fine for this with additional rads General rule of thumb, 120 +(120x the number of stuff you are cooling) in general if adding a mobo block it ran ect you don't need to add any rads ( cpu, gpus you do)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Phelan, why does the header have 4 pins and work with speed fan if it's not 12v pwm? The CPU opt header doesn't allow me to change my speed, and I was hoping to use the CPU fan header for the CPU actual fans themselves. I'll check the spec to be sure, don't want to burn it out! The for the warning


they do it, ask them why
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> No hands on overviews or reviews of the h220x yet?


it is not even it yet..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> I wonder if the price is gonna be somewhere around H220 or a bit more. If it's gonna be like the H220, the H220 is gonna go down a bit, maybe to level up with H100i. Then Corsair would have to make something new, because the H105 is utterly BS.
> 
> If hovewer the H220x will be even more then H200, then it's gonna make no sense, becuase custom LC can be achieved with few dollars more >_>. I doubt it's gonna happen tho.


they already said price will be 150


----------



## herericc

So I got it all hooked up using the swiftech PWM splitter.

I'm trying to control the pump using speedfan, it's on the channel 1 fan pins, so I can see that no matter what I set fan 1 to the pump is still running at full speed.

The other fans on the splitter slow down when I turn the value down in speedfan however.

Shouldn't the pump be slowing down as well if the fans are?

Everything is running off the included PWM splitter which is connected to my CPU_FAN header.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> So I got it all hooked up using the swiftech PWM splitter.
> 
> I'm trying to control the pump using speedfan, it's on the channel 1 fan pins, so I can see that no matter what I set fan 1 to the pump is still running at full speed.
> 
> The other fans on the splitter slow down when I turn the value down in speedfan however.
> 
> Shouldn't the pump be slowing down as well if the fans are?
> 
> Everything is running off the included PWM splitter which is connected to my CPU_FAN header.


That's sounds like a pump issue at the PCB IMO, not reading the PWM sensor wire.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

So maybe I will show what i build. Still I'm waiting for new fans (this from swiftech are bit too loud for me) VRM block and new cords (red and black)









BTW I was looking at MCP50x housing and i think that this part can be replaced with H220 pump. It will be great! Finally I will be able to remove the pump from CPU socket and forget about nightmare to filling up the loop. Let's wait for Bryan for final confirmation. I'm starting to praying!


----------



## MuGGz

Can i fit H320 in Fractal Arc *mini* R2 ? (if i remove the bays)


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuGGz*
> 
> Can i fit H320 in Fractal Arc *mini* R2 ? (if i remove the bays)


Yes you can, it was made to do that for that. Post a pic when you're done.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> So maybe I will show what i build. Still I'm waiting for new fans (this from swiftech are bit too loud for me) VRM block and new cords (red and black)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I was looking at MCP50x housing and i think that this part can be replaced with H220 pump. It will be great! Finally I will be able to remove the pump from CPU socket and forget about nightmare to filling up the loop. Let's wait for Bryan for final confirmation. I'm starting to praying!


Where do you apply the vrm blocks with a full cover water block?? Do you stick them on the back of the card (part facing up?)


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> How is the problem me? 2 pumps died on 2 units from different companies, yeah that's MY fault.


So you should have said that.

You said "bad temps..." not pump failure, so bad temps to me (vs. air) is user error, especially with these kits, properly set up.
Or the other guy, one of the two, regardless, it was the one that said "bad temps vs. air" that I was replying to, not the "pump failure" guy...

Thanks - T


----------



## cephelix

Hey guys,

Gonna get my H220 soon and have been reading the first 400+ pages of this thread.

Impressed with Swiftech Customer Service for one and the unit itself.

I do have a few questions though;
1. Would this fit in a NZXT Tempest Evo (probably not i think but asking just in case) or a Corsair Obsidian 750D (will upgrade my existing case to this)

2.My mobo is a MSI P55-GD85 with an i5-760. Was wondering if the CPU fan header is really PWM even though it's 4-pin as I've read from this thread that some motherboards, even with 4-pin is actually voltage controlled.

3. Can speedfan be used with my motherboard? As from the compatibility list, I see only the GD80, but not the GD85. If it isn't possible, are there any other software controls that can be used?

Any info is appreciated.

Kindest Regards,
A


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Only top VRM with backplate on the back of MOBO. Block is from EK (only them makes it).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> So you should have said that.
> 
> You said "bad temps..." not pump failure, so bad temps to me (vs. air) is user error, especially with these kits, properly set up.
> Or the other guy, one of the two, regardless, it was the one that said "bad temps vs. air" that I was replying to, not the "pump failure" guy...
> 
> Thanks - T


I was perfectly clear in other posts in this thread that I had pumps die. You quoted me, so just a little more reading next time please.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Does anyone know which of the below two fans would be better on my h320 radiator
Nb-b12-ps with 1500rpm And 98.7m3
Or
Noiseblocker B12P at 2000 rpm and 132.4m3
Both are also pwm


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> So maybe I will show what i build. Still I'm waiting for new fans (this from swiftech are bit too loud for me) VRM block and new cords (red and black)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I was looking at MCP50x housing and i think that this part can be replaced with H220 pump. It will be great! Finally I will be able to remove the pump from CPU socket and forget about nightmare to filling up the loop. Let's wait for Bryan for final confirmation. I'm starting to praying!


Yes, the new MCP50X will fit on the H220 housing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> So I got it all hooked up using the swiftech PWM splitter.
> 
> I'm trying to control the pump using speedfan, it's on the channel 1 fan pins, so I can see that no matter what I set fan 1 to the pump is still running at full speed.
> 
> The other fans on the splitter slow down when I turn the value down in speedfan however.
> 
> Shouldn't the pump be slowing down as well if the fans are?
> 
> Everything is running off the included PWM splitter which is connected to my CPU_FAN header.


Please PM me about this so that I can help you get this resolved.


----------



## msgclb

@BramSLI1 I've got an *Apogee Drive II* that needs a pump.

Will the new MCP50X fit the ADII or should I buy a MCP35X?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> I've got an *Apogee Drive II* that needs a pump.
> Will the new MCP50X fit the ADII or should I buy a MCP35X?


The APD2 will only accept Laing pumps. While the MCP50X is similar, it will not fit.

FWIW, I have a new APD2 for sale that has a modified heatsink (to fit a 5m LED) for sale for $100 shipped. I had it listed in my classified yesterday but closed it to reopen it in the proper section since the cpu and mobo sold. Never been ran, but no LED.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> I've got an *Apogee Drive II* that needs a pump.
> Will the new MCP50X fit the ADII or should I buy a MCP35X?


Currently the MCP50X is not compatible with the ADII. We may create a housing in the future that will be though. In its current state though it is not compatible with this new pump and you'll need to purchase one of our MCP35X pumps instead.


----------



## X-Alt

Hello Swiftechians (or something







), I am about to pull the trigger on the Cooler Master Glacer 240L/H220. I have a few questions.

Are the pre-installed Blademaster fans any good, I have some backup SP120s if they are better...?
Is the res mounted correctly when the fans are facing the bottom\push (I prefer it that way, less dust and easier install)?

Thanks,
-Future H220 owner


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Hello Swiftechians (or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I am about to pull the trigger on the Cooler Master Glacer 240L/H220. I have a few questions.
> 
> Are the pre-installed Blademaster fans any good, I have some backup SP120s if they are better...?
> Is the res mounted correctly when the fans are facing the bottom\push (I prefer it that way, less dust and easier install)?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Future H220 owner


First off, the Blade Master fans are quite good. Whether or not they're comparable to Corsair's SP120s I really don't have any data on that. We haven't tested them side by side. If you mount this kit as it comes stock, with the fans on the bottom, your reservoir will be pointed down. This isn't the ideal mounting for this kit and can cause issues later with air getting pulled into the pump. What you'll therefore need to do is just turn the fans around so that they're in a pull configuration. They'll still be on top of the radiator, but set as pull rather than push. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> First off, the Blade Master fans are quite good. Whether or not they're comparable to Corsair's SP120s I really don't have any data on that. We haven't tested them side by side. If you mount this kit as it comes stock, with the fans on the bottom, your reservoir will be pointed down. This isn't the ideal mounting for this kit and can cause issues later with air getting pulled into the pump. What you'll therefore need to do is just turn the fans around so that they're in a pull configuration. They'll still be on top of the radiator, but set as pull rather than push. I hope this answers your questions.


Could I unscrews the fans and mount them on the opposite end, having the reflective part of the Blademaster facing down with the rad on top (AKA H100i style)?


----------



## X-Alt

Point it like this (with the fans facing downward)? Or can you use the included screws to directly mount the screws on to the top fan holes, never attempted this and I would assume its a bit unsafe?


Or with the fillport facing the bottom?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Point it like this (with the fans facing downward)? Or can you use the included screws to directly mount the screws on to the top fan holes, never attempted this and I would assume its a bit unsafe?
> 
> 
> Or with the fillport facing the bottom?


You don't want the fill-port facing down because this can eventually lead to issues with air getting into the pump once evaporation starts to set in.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't want the fill-port facing down because this can eventually lead to issues with air getting into the pump once evaporation starts to set in.


So set it on the top, but how do I screw the fans in without having to remove them? Use the short screws on the top holes?

You see those unused holes on the top of the fan, can they be used to secure the rad without using long screws to go all the way in?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> So set it on the top, but how do I screw the fans in without having to remove them? Use the short screws on the top holes?


Right, just use the short black screws to attach the fans to your case.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> So set it on the top, but how do I screw the fans in without having to remove them? Use the short screws on the top holes?


You can do it that way, I used the long screws, but I also changed fans and did them in pull.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right, just use the short black screws to attach the fans to your case.


Alright, so no need to unscrew the fan (I h8 trying to keep the rad and the fan steady, especially since my 750D needs to offset it) thanks for your help


----------



## herericc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right, just use the short black screws to attach the fans to your case.


Hey Bram, I've been having no luck PWM controlling my pump, and its been making a ticking noise that comes and goes. I'm considering exchanging it tonight since I'm still within my 15 days to do so.

That sounds like a good reason to right?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the new MCP50X will fit on the H220 housing.


Bryan. Tell me when and how I can buy this housing from MCP50X and immediately you will get my money. Only this is stopping me to upgrade my Rig. Don't worry about the stand for pump. I already made a good solution for my case.









BTW. Did You get my e-mail??

Just in case.

I want remove this part from H220/320 (copper block and pump top with housing, will left pump main unit with whole impeller only):



And put only top of the pump (on the red) from MCP50X. It looks just the same with H220 unit (especially the inlet with stabilization od impeller shaft):



If it will be possible - you have my money.









My god if it will be possible I don't need to buy new pump. Especially when H220/320 pump will not have restrictive CPU's copper block the coolant flow will be bigger.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Hey Bram, I've been having no luck PWM controlling my pump, and its been making a ticking noise that comes and goes. I'm considering exchanging it tonight since I'm still within my 15 days to do so.
> 
> That sounds like a good reason to right?


Yes, if you are doing everything correctly and still can't control the speed of your pump, then I would suggest returning it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Bryan. Tell me when and how I can buy this housing from MCP50X and immediately you will get my money. Only this is stopping me to upgrade my Rig. Don't worry about the stand for pump. I already made a good solution for my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. Did You get my e-mail??


These will be available at the end of March/ early April time frame. What email are you asking about? I've been pretty busy lately helping a family member move so I haven't had much time after work. I'll check my email and get back to you.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Alright, so no need to unscrew the fan (I h8 trying to keep the rad and the fan steady, especially since my 750D needs to offset it) thanks for your help


If you're using the fans in the stock direction and location, you don't have to remove them from the rad. Leave the screws holding them to the rad in there and use the fat, short screws to screw to fans to the top of the case.


----------



## inmansfault

Hey guys! I'm a newb here, but I just wanted to say that my 240L came in today, and I can't wait to get home from work and get started. I would have went with the H220, but I couldn't find one at a decent price. I'm looking forward to being in the club!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Hey guys! I'm a newb here, but I just wanted to say that my 240L came in today, and I can't wait to get home from work and get started. I would have went with the H220, but I couldn't find one at a decent price. I'm looking forward to being in the club!


Hmm, do we allow newbs here?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, if you are doing everything correctly and still can't control the speed of your pump, then I would suggest returning it.
> These will be available at the end of March/ early April time frame. What email are you asking about? I've been pretty busy lately helping a family member move so I haven't had much time after work. I'll check my email and get back to you.


Thanks Bryan for talk!

If really MCP50X top housing will match to the H220 unit ... Respect












































I can't wait to get it.


----------



## inmansfault

Forum newb, not a pc newb.







Just got home, and I'm getting ready to get going on this beast!


----------



## inmansfault

Maaaan, just unboxed my 240L only to find this. I would think this is RMA worthy. Am I wrong?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Maaaan, just unboxed my 240L only to find this. I would think this is RMA worthy. Am I wrong?


Bent fins are common it seems, that's just way too many. I would not accept a unit in that shape.


----------



## inmansfault

Gaaah! I've been itching to do this all week. This waiting game is gonna kill me.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Maaaan, just unboxed my 240L only to find this. I would think this is RMA worthy. Am I wrong?


Your call, if your like me and was like a kid on christmas when it came in, I would just straighten them out. Its not going to leak since the rows look straight and performance should be the same once straight since the fins still seem attached. Thats just me, but if you feel you want an rma, that is quite a bit of bent fins.


----------



## smithydan

RMA or not, I would still notify cooler master.

Sometimes reports fix issues that can make future owners happy.


----------



## inmansfault

The way the fins are perforated makes them feel really fragile. Does this seem acceptable? I can see plenty of light through there.


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> RMA or not, I would still notify cooler master.
> 
> Sometimes reports fix issues that can make future owners happy.


I will for sure.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Maaaan, just unboxed my 240L only to find this. I would think this is RMA worthy. Am I wrong?





Dang buddy! I would personally WANT to rma it but most likely I would just straighten them out and see how things performed lol







Contact CM though and see what they offer to do for you.

And I am not sure we have room for Saiyans in this club.......


----------



## inmansfault

I've already started putting it in my case. Ha!


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> I've already started putting it in my case. Ha!


Hehe Im just messing with you!

Awesome man









I don't think you will notice any problems with those fins but do remember they are weaker now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Maaaan, just unboxed my 240L only to find this. I would think this is RMA worthy. Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> Your call, if your like me and was like a kid on christmas when it came in, I would just straighten them out. Its not going to leak since the rows look straight and performance should be the same once straight since the fins still seem attached. Thats just me, but if you feel you want an rma, that is quite a bit of bent fins.
Click to expand...

sgreed it sucks but i would just fix them it is easy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> The way the fins are perforated makes them feel really fragile. Does this seem acceptable? I can see plenty of light through there.


supposed to be ! i just use needle nose and make sure to not damage the chambers !


----------



## sumonpathak

hey guys...have been experiencing some issues with the H320..
apparently the pump has a mind of its own : it works at its own whim. The local distributor already changed the pump(as per them,since swiftech didn't even bother to reply to my mails).
Still the issues crops up.
Please help me out on this..
Am sure OCN has a swiftech rep...somewhere


----------



## Mega Man

if you were emailing the wrong person i can see why... as swiftech has always responded to email every time and quite quick i might add


----------



## sumonpathak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you were emailing the wrong person i can see why... as swiftech has always responded to email every time and quite quick i might add


well.....simple message to FB didnt work...
Also who exactly handles the rma on Asia? is it [email protected]


----------



## Mega Man

idk Bram will have to answer


----------



## sumonpathak

well...i sent off a mail to [email protected] and [email protected] ...awaiting replies..
on hindsight....getting a full blown custom lc would have cost me the same keeping in mind the price and taxes.
feels like a bad purchase


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumonpathak*
> 
> well...i sent off a mail to [email protected] and [email protected] ...awaiting replies..
> on hindsight....getting a full blown custom lc would have cost me the same keeping in mind the price and taxes.
> feels like a bad purchase


Wow some taxes....If both were equal in price completly custom is nicer although not necessarily better performance. At least can't see more than a 2c improvement.

In America going completely custom at a minimum would be about $250 vs $100 that I paid for the h220 on sale.


----------



## sumonpathak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Wow some taxes....If both were equal in price completly custom is nicer although not necessarily better performance. At least can't see more than a 2c improvement.
> 
> In America going completely custom at a minimum would be about $250 vs $100 that I paid for the h220 on sale.


i paid around 240+ USD for the H320 here...
taxes and inflated prices are a norm in India.
where as a basic LC would cost me around 320ish USD


----------



## smithydan

That's high.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumonpathak*
> 
> i paid around 240+ USD for the H320 here...
> taxes and inflated prices are a norm in India.
> where as a basic LC would cost me around 320ish USD


If you're in India then yes, you'll need to go through Rebecca. She handles the RMAs for your region. She should respond to you shortly and I saw your email to her this morning. I think they might all be going on a vacation soon though.


----------



## inmansfault

Well, mounting the pump normally will block one of my memory slots. If I move the brackets to the other sides, then the screws that go into the back plate aren't long enough to tighten the block all the way down onto the cpu. Many swear words were uttered in my house last night.







Does anybody know or have any recommendations of some different screws I could use to tighten it down? I found a pic waaay back in this thread last night where someone had accomplished this, but I couldn't tell what kind of screws they were using. I wouldn't think it should matter as long as the block is nice and tight on the cpu.


----------



## sumonpathak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're in India then yes, you'll need to go through Rebecca. She handles the RMAs for your region. She should respond to you shortly and I saw your email to her this morning. I think they might all be going on a vacation soon though.


am in india sadly








hopefully she see's it soon enough..am too tired of running back and forth with that thing.
thanks for the response


----------



## mrazster

A question mostly to the Swiftechguys here...but anyone with experince is welcome to answer.

Would the pump used in the Switech H320(wich I´m currently using) be suficient enough if I´m adding a 240 rad and a graphics card to the loop ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> A question mostly to the Swiftechguys here...but anyone with experince is welcome to answer.
> 
> Would the pump used in the Switech H320(wich I´m currently using) be suficient enough if I´m adding a 240 rad and a graphics card to the loop ?


Yes, it can handle that without a problem.


----------



## thelude

Hey Bram, will the new pump be a good enough of a performance upgrade over the H220 pump? I am asking because it took me forever to fill and get rid of the air bubbles in my loop. The pump had to push water through my 3 rads, 2 gpu blocks, and the cpu block. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey Bram, will the new pump be a good enough of a performance upgrade over the H220 pump? I am asking because it took me forever to fill and get rid of the air bubbles in my loop. The pump had to push water through my 3 rads, 2 gpu blocks, and the cpu block. Thanks again for the help.


We were actually testing this new pump's performance just the other day here and I was amazed at the performance this little pump has. I can't get into any specifics, but I would imagine that it could clear out your loop of air within a matter of minutes.


----------



## X-Alt

Placed my order, BUT DAT SHIPPING DELAY!!!111! Should be here in about a week and a half..


----------



## CTM Audi

Is discussion for the "x" line going to take place here, or is/can a new thread be made to keep it cleaner and not have so many posts?

I have questions, but there are already so many pages in this thread to go through since the announcement.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Is discussion for the "x" line going to take place here, or is/can a new thread be made to keep it cleaner and not have so many posts?
> 
> I have questions, but there are already so many pages in this thread to go through since the announcement.


Well I would just post in here since you know the rep is reading this thread, besides a lof of us are interested in the info. Its kinda the same family although I can see why some would want a new thread too.


----------



## Phelan

For now most of the discussion for the H220X is here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1456666/facebook-swiftech-to-announce-several-new-products-at-ces

TBH I haven't decided if the H220X will be part of this club or if it will have a new club, since the pump is the only similar unit. I'll have to discuss it with Gabe and Bryan to get their thoughts.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For now most of the discussion for the H220X is here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1456666/facebook-swiftech-to-announce-several-new-products-at-ces
> 
> TBH I haven't decided if the H220X will be part of this club or if it will have a new club, since the pump is the only similar unit. I'll have to discuss it with Gabe and Bryan to get their thoughts.


I can see it being its own club with people eventually trying new cpu blocks....would be cool if they sell it without the cpu block for those that want a more custom route from the start.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I can see it being its own club with people eventually trying new cpu blocks....would be cool if they sell it without the cpu block for those that want a more custom route from the start.


I know the MCP50X will be sold separately at a cheaper price than the MCP35X, and the new Apogee XL block will be sold separately as well. I don't know if the rads and rezes will be sold separately but now that G1/4" ports are standard I could certainly see that happening. The new kit is really exciting IMO because it is even more modular and upgradeable than before in a lot of ways, like the fact that you can get a 50X to replace the stock pump for higher flow, though that generally won't be necessary. In my understanding though, you could get the 50X and do the same to the original H220.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I know the MCP50X will be sold separately at a cheaper price than the MCP35X, and the new Apogee XL block will be sold separately as well. I don't know if the rads and rezes will be sold separately but now that G1/4" ports are standard I could certainly see that happening. The new kit is really exciting IMO because it is even more modular and upgradeable than before in a lot of ways, like the fact that you can get a 50X to replace the stock pump for higher flow, though that generally won't be necessary. In my understanding though, you could get the 50X and do the same to the original H220.


If it bolts into the h220 that would be great! I'm good with 3000rpm but would be fun to see what 4500rpm does. I don't know how people complain about max speed; I'm on a "bench" and I can't hear the pump over the included fans...which thankfully don't have a high pitch squeal like other aio fans lol

I just game with it on max because its quiet enough and my quiet speed I leave it at 2050rpm


----------



## inmansfault

Finally got my 240L up and running! I only had time to do some quick testing though. I won't be able to really get into it until Monday. Without any tweaking, I'm getting between 33 and 35 when idle (which I hope to get down a little lower.) I ran prime 95 for an hour and never went above 48. This load temp is a vast improvement over my previous cooler. I replaced the stock fans with GT ap-15's, and as far as noise and air movement go, they're everything I expected. The wires on them are just plain silly though. I'll post some pics when I get it all cable managed again. The pump does seem to be a little louder than I expected. I can plainly hear it without my case fans running. It sounds like it running smoothly, just kinda loud. Any ideas on why this might be?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Finally got my 240L up and running! I only had time to do some quick testing though. I won't be able to really get into it until Monday. Without any tweaking, I'm getting between 33 and 35 when idle (which I hope to get down a little lower.) I ran prime 95 for an hour and never went above 48. This load temp is a vast improvement over my previous cooler. I replaced the stock fans with GT ap-15's, and as far as noise and air movement go, they're everything I expected. The wires on them are just plain silly though. I'll post some pics when I get it all cable managed again. The pump does seem to be a little louder than I expected. I can plainly hear it without my case fans running. It sounds like it running smoothly, just kinda loud. Any ideas on why this might be?


Pump running speed maybe? When I had my H220, the pump at around 1200 rpm was silent to me, at 3000 rpm, I could hear it easily.


----------



## Watagump

Out of curiosity, has anyone ran there unit with the fill port open to see the water moving in the res? When mine had issues and I tried that, I didn't notice the water moving at all.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

I can't wait for MCP50X pump's top, to put it on my H320 pump. That will be great deal. Why March is still so far??


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Pump running speed maybe? When I had my H220, the pump at around 1200 rpm was silent to me, at 3000 rpm, I could hear it easily.


Ahhh. It was running at a little more than 3000, so makes sense. What method of control is easiest? I used ASUS fan expert from the AI suite with my previous cooler.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Ahhh. It was running at a little more than 3000, so makes sense. What method of control is easiest? I used ASUS fan expert from the AI suite with my previous cooler.


I'm using fan expert to control PWM. Especially that on Rampage IV Formula You will not find electric speed controller.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the new MCP50X will fit on the H220 housing.


Explain please? H220 housing? as in the radiator or the cpu pump?

Im running the glacier 240L and with my new case was going to try and add in another 240 or possiblt 360 radiator and was concern the pump on the h220/240L kit might not be sufficient?

1) Could the stock pump run the system (240mm rad / 360mm rad / cpu / 2 gpu blocks)
2) How does the MCP50X fit on the housing?


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Out of curiosity, has anyone ran there unit with the fill port open to see the water moving in the res? When mine had issues and I tried that, I didn't notice the water moving at all.


I do the ghetto purge and run it opened, I can see the wate rflowing nicely... im using red coolant so its a bit easier to see... i also see the bubbles coming in...


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> I'm using fan expert to control PWM. Especially that on Rampage IV Formula You will not find electric speed controller.


I use Q-Fan, AI Suite 2 is a load of garbage at times...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Explain please? H220 housing? as in the radiator or the cpu pump?
> 
> Im running the glacier 240L and with my new case was going to try and add in another 240 or possiblt 360 radiator and was concern the pump on the h220/240L kit might not be sufficient?
> 
> 1) Could the stock pump run the system (240mm rad / 360mm rad / cpu / 2 gpu blocks)
> 2) How does the MCP50X fit on the housing?


The Glacer 240L could easily handle all that as long as you run the GPUs in parallel, but the MCP50X would have more flow than the 240L's pump, but only at higher RPMs, since the pumps are essentially the same except the 240L pump is limited to 3K RPM whereas the 50X is limited at 4500 RPM. When more restriction (blocks, rads) are added to the loop, the pump quiets down at higher RPMs compared to a smaller loop. But if there's nothing wrong with the 240L pump and you're just looking for more flow, you're better off keeping the stock pump on the 240L and adding an MCP50X into the loop as a secondary pump.

To answer your question of how to install a 50X on the H220/240L, you would take the top off the the 50X, take the pump off the H220, and replace it with the topless 50X. It's just a few screws and an O-ring to deal with. Obviously the pumps need to be empty and unpowered.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The Glacer 240L could easily handle all that as long as you run the GPUs in parallel, but the MCP50X would have more flow than the 240L's pump, but only at higher RPMs, since the pumps are essentially the same except the 240L pump is limited to 3K RPM whereas the 50X is limited at 4500 RPM. When more restriction (blocks, rads) are added to the loop, the pump quiets down at higher RPMs compared to a smaller loop. But if there's nothing wrong with the 240L pump and you're just looking for more flow, you're better off keeping the stock pump on the 240L and adding an MCP50X into the loop as a secondary pump.
> 
> To answer your question of how to install a 50X on the H220/240L, you would take the top off the the 50X, take the pump off the H220, and replace it with the topless 50X. It's just a few screws and an O-ring to deal with. Obviously the pumps need to be empty and unpowered.


Ahh. would i need a new cpu block ? Or does it sit ontop if the cpu / pump block like thecurrent setup. I just order the new nzxt h440 cse and was going ot run 360 front 240 top radiators, along with 2 ekwb 290x and the cpu block. I was planning on doing parallel flow, so now my question is... what reservoir would work well in that case.... OH watercooling!


----------



## X-Alt

240L is 3500RPM


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I do the ghetto purge and run it opened, I can see the wate rflowing nicely... im using red coolant so its a bit easier to see... i also see the bubbles coming in...


Thanks, I had a feeling mine not moving meant pump issues. It use to just make a slight gurgling noise when it was running, now it just makes a buzzing sound.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Ahh. would i need a new cpu block ? Or does it sit ontop if the cpu / pump block like thecurrent setup. I just order the new nzxt h440 cse and was going ot run 360 front 240 top radiators, along with 2 ekwb 290x and the cpu block. I was planning on doing parallel flow, so now my question is... what reservoir would work well in that case.... OH watercooling!


The pump on the H220/Glacer sits on top of the Apogee HD-derived base (CPU block). The 50X would bolt on top of the existing block in this case (pun intended).


----------



## Watagump

I just love that Swiftech teamed up with Cooler Master and made the Glacer 240L. Its like a giant F.U, with the whole patent thing for the H220.


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The pump on the H220/Glacer sits on top of the Apogee HD-derived base (CPU block). The 50X would bolt on top of the existing block in this case (pun intended).


AHH! that is awesome. I think at first I will try the h220/240l pump.

Now i just need to figure out how reservoirs work / and how to mount one in the H440 case


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I just love that Swiftech teamed up with Cooler Master and made the Glacer 240L. Its like a giant F.U, with the whole patent thing for the H220.


Asetek is prob "FUUU", they dont have the guts to take on CoolerMaster


----------



## X-Alt

I spoke too early, they are the Patent Trolls of Water Cooling http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2013/03/11/asetek-sues-cm/1


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I spoke too early, they are the Patent Trolls of Water Cooling http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2013/03/11/asetek-sues-cm/1


Old news mate...So far as I known cooler master either won the suit or reach an agreement and that´s why the glacer come to existence.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The Glacer 240L could easily handle all that as long as you run the GPUs in parallel, but the MCP50X would have more flow than the 240L's pump, but only at higher RPMs, since the pumps are essentially the same except the 240L pump is limited to 3K RPM whereas the 50X is limited at 4500 RPM. When more restriction (blocks, rads) are added to the loop, the pump quiets down at higher RPMs compared to a smaller loop. But if there's nothing wrong with the 240L pump and you're just looking for more flow, you're better off keeping the stock pump on the 240L and adding an MCP50X into the loop as a secondary pump.
> 
> To answer your question of how to install a 50X on the H220/240L, you would take the top off the the 50X, take the pump off the H220, and replace it with the topless 50X. It's just a few screws and an O-ring to deal with. Obviously the pumps need to be empty and unpowered.


And that will be beautiful!







Hope that Swiftech will sell the top of MCP50x separately ! I must get it in my hands!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> And that will be beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that Swiftech will sell the top of MCP50x separately ! I must get it in my hands!


Yes, we are going to be selling this pump as a separate stand-alone product.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, we are going to be selling this pump as a separate stand-alone product.


That will be awesome. Can't wait to get hands on with this.


----------



## michael-ocn

i'm pretty interested in the h220x... picking parts for a haswell-e pc i want to put together towards the end of the year

here's the best pic i've seen of how the pump+rad+res assembly works
http://images.anandtech.com/galleries/3323/Swiftech%20(9)_575px.jpg


----------



## Temerario78

Have they improved with the new design how the CPU socket is attached to the backplate? If they keep the same system at least without the pump it will be a bit easier.


----------



## grunion

I can no longer control the pump speed on my Glacer.

I shut down to install an expansion card, didn't even move my chassis.

Started up after the installation and I was like wth is that noise, look at fan monitoring and sure enough the pump was running ~3800rpm when before it was running ~2600rpm.

Swapped headers and the issue still persists, btw the headers are working on chassis fans.

Any ideas?


----------



## Mega Man

is it possible the setting got switched to voltage ?


----------



## agarabaghi

I dont think i can control mine.

I have the fan tip plugged into a chasis fan (4 pin but the pump seems to only be 2 wires. And then i have the sata power. Pump is running 3400rpm... any ideas what needs to be changed?


----------



## Mega Man

odds are you are not in a pwm header, try to put it in your CPU socket


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, we are going to be selling this pump as a separate stand-alone product.


Bryan. I don't need whole MCP50X pump, only MCPS50X's top with housing (I don't need impeller or engine). I want to use this MCP50X's top to put it on my H320 pump and finally forget about problem which is filling up the loop (especially that soon I will have VRM block). It's obvious that MCP50X will be sell separately, but for me and few more people, who has H220/320, the MCP50X's top is the most important. It will allow us to take of H220/320 pump from CPU socket and put it anywhere in the case. Of course we must buy a new CPU block. I need only top of the pump with housing, not whole unit. It will be waste of money to buy MCP35 or 50 when I can use present H320 pump with different top/housing to make the same.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I dont think i can control mine.
> 
> I have the fan tip plugged into a chasis fan (4 pin but the pump seems to only be 2 wires. And then i have the sata power. Pump is running 3400rpm... any ideas what needs to be changed?


Chassis fan headers thus far are always voltage modulated, even if they are 4 pin. The pump only works with PWM modulation, and therefor will not change speeds on that header since the pump is getting the full 12v from the SATA header. So the pump wire will need to be plugged into CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT and make sure the BIOS fan setting for the header is set to a PWM-modulated setting, which will not always be labeled as such (trial and error is likely needed for the last part).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I dont think i can control mine.
> 
> I have the fan tip plugged into a chasis fan (4 pin but the pump seems to only be 2 wires. And then i have the sata power. Pump is running 3400rpm... any ideas what needs to be changed?
> 
> 
> 
> Chassis fan headers thus far are always voltage modulated, even if they are 4 pin. The pump only works with PWM modulation, and therefor will not change speeds on that header since the pump is getting the full 12v from the SATA header. So the pump wire will need to be plugged into CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT and make sure the BIOS fan setting for the header is set to a PWM-modulated setting, which will not always be labeled as such (trial and error is likely needed for the last part).
Click to expand...

this but * or to the one pwm fan header on the aquaero 5 or any header on the aquaero 6 !


----------



## agarabaghi

Yup changed it and it works great now!


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys its been a while since I have posted anything. Recently I returned my H220 and got it replaced with another one and this one WAS dead silent no pump noise, but now its starting to make ticking noise which is different from the other one. Can this noise be resolved ? I have the youtube link here 



 , If anyone can help me much appreciated, I just hope I don't have to end up wasting my time again and again returning this pump, just want the plug and play.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi guys its been a while since I have posted anything. Recently I returned my H220 and got it replaced with another one and this one WAS dead silent no pump noise, but now its starting to make ticking noise which is different from the other one. Can this noise be resolved ? I have the youtube link here
> 
> 
> 
> , If anyone can help me much appreciated, I just hope I don't have to end up wasting my time again and again returning this pump, just want the plug and play.


I am not sure I agree with you on that link.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am not sure I agree with you on that link.


Well that is awkward my bad, t his is the one i menat to put up


----------



## reppel

I'm having some trouble with my h220 on a 4930k. It goes up to 90 degrees after 2-3 minutes. (at 4500mhz 1,4v)
The pump is running at 100% at the time. I have the pump alone on the cpu fan plug and the 2 radiator fans on the 8fan switch on the alt cpu fan plug.
Anyway, I thought it was the thermal paste, and maybe it was:



...so I reapplied it like this with IC Diamond:


Same problem. I hear the pump running, sounding loud at 100% speed, fans are running. But as I start the burn test, it jumps 40 degrees in a second, and after 2 minutes it jumps from around 70 to 90in some seconds (this might be the update lag, don't trust me 100% on this)

Am i doing something wrong?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reppel*
> 
> I'm having some trouble with my h220 on a 4930k. It goes up to 90 degrees after 2-3 minutes. (at 4500mhz 1,4v)
> The pump is running at 100% at the time. I have the pump alone on the cpu fan plug and the 2 radiator fans on the 8fan switch on the alt cpu fan plug.
> Anyway, I thought it was the thermal paste, and maybe it was:
> 
> 
> 
> ...so I reapplied it like this with IC Diamond:
> 
> 
> Same problem. I hear the pump running, sounding loud at 100% speed, fans are running. But as I start the burn test, it jumps 40 degrees in a second, and after 2 minutes it jumps from around 70 to 90in some seconds (this might be the update lag, don't trust me 100% on this)
> 
> Am i doing something wrong?


1. Make line method or spread the pasta on all CPU's IHS for applying thermal solution
2. You must put more compound than LGA1150 CPU
3. Screw the block in cross pattern!

Than it will be fine


----------



## Skrumzy

Don't spread the paste you'll have air pockets galore. The tried and true method is pea size in the middle. The seating of your waterblock could be the issue but I highly doubt it. 1.4v with no IHS mod 90 degrees sounds about right. My guess is the thermal glue that your chip got was globbed uneven or too much causing the IHS to not make great contact with the cpu. Either lower the voltage or do the IHS mod. Sorry


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Don't spread the paste you'll have air pockets galore. The tried and true method is pea size in the middle. The seating of your waterblock could be the issue but I highly doubt it. 1.4v with no IHS mod 90 degrees sounds about right. My guess is the thermal glue that your chip got was globbed uneven or too much causing the IHS to not make great contact with the cpu. Either lower the voltage or do the IHS mod. Sorry


Really I don't want to be rude, but u saying bull****.

Look again on the pictures above. The coumpand wasn't on the whole IHS and waterblock. It's obvies it was not enough compand and it's look like not using cross pattern method to lock the waterblock.

It's a lot of ways to put compound I like line method and it works for me and H320 with exactly the same CPU (small edit: sorry I have 3930K) and motherboard.

To the author. Put like I said and lock the block cross pattern. You didn't put enough compound and maybe too fast lock one of the sides of water block.

One more thing.

How the hell u want to make mod of LGA2011 IHS. IT DOSEN'T HAVE a glue under IHS. It's soldering CPU. If you will try to remove it, I will ensure you - you will broke core. LGA2011 and LGA1150 CPUs are completely different.


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Really I don't want to be rude, but u saying bull****.
> 
> Look again on the pictures above. The coumpand wasn't on the whole IHS and waterblock. It's obvies it was not enough compand and it's look like not using cross pattern method to lock the waterblock.
> 
> It's a lot of ways to put compound I like line method and it works for me and H320 with exactly the same CPU and motherboard.
> 
> To the author. Put like I said and lock the block cross pattern. You didn't put enough compound and maybe too fast lock one of the sides of water block


http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.

I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymoreanymore

*edit* your right I was mistaken as I have not followed the -e series...it is soldered I apologize..


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.
> 
> I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymore


I said about IHS and what is under it.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/core-i7-4960x-4930k-4820k_9.html

"It's different with the LGA2011 CPUs. Intel employs fluxless soldering for them, so the CPU die transfers its heat to the CPU cap via indium-based solder. That's why the success of your overclocking an Ivy Bridge-E CPU depends on your cooler's efficiency and is not limited by any other factors."

So u can make mod with IHS but it is way more dangerous (and more difficult) than LGA115x CPUs. Read before you will write something. Usually no one remove IHS from LGA2011 because its usually unneeded and don't bring such a dramatic difference like in main stream CPUs

About putting the compound. It's many ways and even more articles about it. Simply - everyway is good if it's work. Just check the size of the IHS on LGA115x and 2011. 2011 need more compound then other CPUs. I'm using line method because I can quite easy see how much I have already on the IHS. Peal is ok but on smaller CPUs

You were looking but not so well (think to prove of your idea).

Small test for You (took me 10 sec to find it):
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/

1,4 V is quiet to much, but it depends on CPU and situation (stress or idle). In the link which I gave u can see that for example 4820 is running quite close 1,4 V.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.
> 
> I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymoreanymore
> 
> *edit* your right I was mistaken as I have not followed the -e series...it is soldered I apologize..


No problem


----------



## Kraanipea

I just added a GPU to the loop of my H220 and it's still sitting on my table, but the problem is that i can't get the air out of the pump anymore. I've been trying to get it out for 2 hours now. The radiator is filled to the top, I have shaken everything around, turned the pump on it's sideways, upside down, knocked on it, pressed on the tubes, moved the tubes and the air bubbles just don't want to go away. How do I fix this? Any help appreciated!


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Check my post in the topic. Few pages before. I made Video on youtube with guide know-how. Should help. Other way you have first rev of the pump and you will be unable to remove the air at all, because of the not so well design of impeller of first revision.


----------



## Kraanipea

Yes i have the old version, the one on your video is different. I just ran the pump alone with tubes going straight to water and i cleared the air bubbles. Put it back together with blocks and rad, had some bubble noise but managed to get it dead silent for a few min. When i turned it the way i want it to be inside my pc, it just started again and now it wont stop again. The res was always so full that it was impossible to fill.







. Thinking of buying a real pump, block and a res...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Don't spread the paste you'll have air pockets galore. The tried and true method is pea size in the middle. The seating of your waterblock could be the issue but I highly doubt it. 1.4v with no IHS mod 90 degrees sounds about right. My guess is the thermal glue that your chip got was globbed uneven or too much causing the IHS to not make great contact with the cpu. Either lower the voltage or do the IHS mod. Sorry


i use ic diamond on my 3930k, no h220 but a similar DIY solution ( MCP35x, swiftech 2x360 qp rads, tube res, apogee hd ) i spoke with several ppl you want to use line method and put a rather large line on it, mine works great with that said it has already been gone over you cant delid these cpus, you can lap them but i do not feel it is needed but pea size generally is too little tim,


----------



## reppel

thx for the replies. i guess i was expecting temps to be lower than they're supposed to. too bad the ihs can't be removed.
i got a kind of stable overclock at 4,6ghz at 1.35 at max 87degs. higher voltages really increase temps too much.


----------



## X-Alt

For large G34 Opterons or 2011s= Cross, X or Line and spread if you want
For PGA478\939->LGA775\AM2->1150\AM3, use a dot and apply pressure

Period.


----------



## Mega Man

with that said i am in the 70s @ 1.4v on my 3930k with 2x360 rads.... so i dont think 240 will be enough


----------



## X-Alt

Another question, does the AMD mounting use the same screws as Intel, the install video does not clearly state so? If not, do I use teh LGA 2011 springs on the other (longer) screws?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Another question, does the AMD mounting use the same screws as Intel, the install video does not clearly state so? If not, do I use teh LGA 2011 springs on the other (longer) screws?


Use the AMD mounting bracket and screws, you get 2 of them. The screws are in the brackets.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Use the AMD mounting bracket and screws, you get 2 of them. The screws are in the brackets.


Are the springs already attached or do you even need them?
/OCD


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Are the springs already attached or do you even need them?
> /OCD


Springs are already in there, you get a separate bag with the screws with the springs already in the bracket. Then you have the small screws also in that bag. I hope we are talking about the H220.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Springs are already in there, you get a separate bag with the screws with the springs already in the bracket. Then you have the small screws also in that bag. I hope we are talking about the H220.


Glacer, but they are pretty much the same. If I see the AMD bag without the screws and springs preattached, I will put the spring in and attach the screws...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Glacer, but they are pretty much the same. If I see the AMD bag without the screws and springs preattached, I will put the spring in and attach the screws...


Thats why I was worried, I was looking at my H220 mounting parts. 2 black brackets with the screws with springs all ready to go.


----------



## X-Alt

Apparently it looks like this, the review says I have to borrow the plastic washers (IDK what they are for, prob for the long screws to not bend the rad fins) and the springs..


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Apparently it looks like this, the review says I have to borrow the plastic washers (IDK what they are for) and the springs..


Here is mine.



The springs must all be the same then, the plastic washers hold the screws and spring in the bracket.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> The springs must all be the same then, the plastic washers hold the screws and spring in the bracket.


Understood, therefore the metal ones are used to hold the miniscrews to the pump/block.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Another question, does the AMD mounting use the same screws as Intel, the install video does not clearly state so? If not, do I use teh LGA 2011 springs on the other (longer) screws?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Use the AMD mounting bracket and screws, you get 2 of them. The screws are in the brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> Are the springs already attached or do you even need them?
> /OCD
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Are the springs already attached or do you even need them?
> /OCD
> 
> 
> 
> Springs are already in there, you get a separate bag with the screws with the springs already in the bracket. Then you have the small screws also in that bag. I hope we are talking about the H220.
Click to expand...

use the intel springs but *not* the 2011 springs, per bram


----------



## Kraanipea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Check my post in the topic. Few pages before. I made Video on youtube with guide know-how. Should help. Other way you have first rev of the pump and you will be unable to remove the air at all, because of the not so well design of impeller of first revision.


I took apart the pump as you did in the video and filled it up. Now it's running in my loop again but still having lots of air bubble sounds. Going to let it run for a while to see if it goes any better. Too bad I don't have transparent tubing


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys , does anyone else here have a problem with the pump making noise ? Are there any other methods of removing air bubbles ?thus is my second h220 and it's making more of a ticking noise compared to my first one so I think this could be a air bubble. Here is a video of it . Audio is not the best because it's recorded on a note 3 .


----------



## Lord Nikkon

During my experience with H220/320 pumps I noticed one thing. When you will remove the water from the loop it's damm difficult to fill it up again.

I have second pump, first died. Second has new type of impeller, but still it's taking much more time to remove air from it. If I can suggest something. When you refill the pump, connect it to the power supply and the you will remove the biggest air bubbles run the pump for few hours in 100% speed (longer is better). Pump can't be connected to socket, and the best is to place pump really in the lowest place compare to res. During this few hours u can change orientation of the pump, but try to not shake it during working. Ceramic shaft really don't like it. Should help, but H220/320 pump are quite nasty. It's 50/50 chances to remove all air.


----------



## Kraanipea

I left it running all night (12 hours) and the bubbles were almost gone, so it is working. Turned the pump off and moved it to sideways like it should be in my pc. Put it back on and now i have quite a lot of bubbles again. I'll give it another few hours and I will see then. Maybe I will put it in my PC and just let it run there all the time with 100%. Maybe the bubbles will go away again. If i put it in my PC, the Outlet of the pump will be the highest point of the pump so it should work, also i will put the res like it should be so it can catch bubbles. Wish me luck for the next 24 hours


----------



## AsheyB

Could someone please help me with the best way to connect the H220 without using the PWM splitter (i'm trying my best to minimize my cables) I have the Asus Z87 gryphon, and am planning on plugging the 4 pin cable from the cpu cooler into the CPU_OPT, and the two fans that i replaced with the noctua nf-f12's into the CHA_FAN1 & CHA_FAN2 which i can control using a ASUS software i have installed, all motherboard fan headers are 4pin which i'm assuming are okay for PWM fans.

Any one willing to input any thoughts on this?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## Kraanipea

Update after pump being 3 hours on its side. The air bubbles are starting to go away, only a little left in there. I think i can put it in my PC soon. Looks like when pump is working on 100% for long, it will clear itself out!







. I'll give another update when i put it in my PC.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Could someone please help me with the best way to connect the H220 without using the PWM splitter (i'm trying my best to minimize my cables) I have the Asus Z87 gryphon, and am planning on plugging the 4 pin cable from the cpu cooler into the CPU_OPT, and the two fans that i replaced with the noctua nf-f12's into the CHA_FAN1 & CHA_FAN2 which i can control using a ASUS software i have installed, all motherboard fan headers are 4pin which i'm assuming are okay for PWM fans.
> 
> Any one willing to input any thoughts on this?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


Yeah, don't do it. 4 pin "FAN" header doesn't mean it's good for a "PUMP". Pump draws 6 watts(most fans are 1-2w), most 4 pin headers default to voltage regulation which is suspected may damage pumps. The only way to ensure PWM control is used would be to individually check that 12v remains using a multimeter when speed is reduced. You can't check PWM signal without a scope and any 4 pin fan will slow down via either voltage or PWM so testing with a 4pin fan will not show you. Also the splitter not only splits the PWM signal it also draws ALL power direct from the power supply which ensures a solidly regulated heavy guage 12v power source and offloads the motherboard from doing any power feed duties (MB then only sends pwm signal which is nothing).

Running the pump off the motherboard is IMO asking for trouble.

Do it right and hide the splitter behind the MB tray and use it. If cables are not long enough, extend and sleeve. It may take a few minutes longer, but imagine how much time you'll spend if you kill the pump OR your motherboard.

Some motherboards may be rated to handle the current load but think about how tiny those wee little motherboard traces are and now think about the size of wire feeding the pump. Splitter only or you may be sorry. There is good reason the glacier and h100i omit the option and force direct Sata power to the pump. I would not be surprised if the 220x does the same thing.

6 watts off Pump load is no different than plugging 6 ea 1800 rpm gentle typhoons into a single fan header, would you do that?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Yeah, don't do it. 4 pin header doesn't mean OK. Pump draws 6 watts(most fans are 1-2w), most 4 pin headers default to voltage regulation which is suspected may damage the pump. The only way to ensure PWM control is used would be to individually check that 12v remains using a multimeter. You can't check PWM signal without a scope and any 4 pin fan will slow down via either so testing with a 4pin fan is of no use. Also the splitter not only splits the PWM signal it also draws ALL power direct from the power supply which ensures a solidly regulated heavy guage 12v power source and offloads the motherboard from doing any power feed duties (MB then only sends pwm signal which is nothing).
> 
> Running the pump off the motherboard is IMO asking for trouble.
> 
> Do it right and hide the splitter behind the MB tray and use it. If cables are not long enough, extend and sleeve. It may take a few minutes longer, but imagine how much time you'll spend if you kill the pump OR your motherboard.
> 
> Some motherboards may be rated to handle the current load but think about how tiny those wee little motherboard traces are and now think about the size of wire feeding the pump. Splitter only or you may be sorry. There is good reason the glacier and h100i omit the option and force direct Sata power to the pump. I would not be surprised if the 220x does the same thing.
> 
> 6 watts in the pump is no different than plugging 6 ea 1800 rpm gentle typhoons into a single fan header, would you do that?


Can you run two fans in the CPU_OPT using a splitter and still have the Glacer/H220 running in the CPU_FAN headers without issue and if it does not recieve any pump speed signals, will it run full speed until set?


----------



## X-Alt

>Whoops, multitasking


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Can you run two fans in the CPU_OPT using a splitter and still have the Glacer/H220 running in the CPU_FAN headers without issue and if it does not recieve any pump speed signals, will it run full speed until set?


The fans may be ok, but I would not run the pump directly on any header. The pump should always be plugged into the splitter. Every MB is a little different, my MSI board only has a single 4 pin PWM source from CPU_FAN but I still wouldn't recommend running the pump off the MB direct, splitter is the only way I would do it.

Bottom line all motherboard headers are all designed for "FAN" use not PUMP use. Pumps are a lot more power hungry and sensetive to voltage, the splitter is the only thing that can ensure the pump gets both adequate and proper 12v regulated power.

Anything else is a gamble....

If pump is plugged into splitter and splitter is only plugged into PSU (no motherboard connection) then yes the pump will operate at 100%. it defaults to full speed when PWN signal is not there.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> The fans may be ok, but I would not run the pump directly on any header. The pump should always be plugged into the splitter. Every MB is a little different, my MSI board only has a single 4 pin PWM source from CPU_FAN but I still wouldn't recommend running the pump off the MB direct, splitter is the only way I would do it.
> 
> Bottom line all motherboard headers are all designed for "FAN" use not PUMP use. Pumps are a lot more power hungry and sensetive to voltage, the splitter is the only thing that can ensure the pump gets both adequate and proper 12v regulated power.
> 
> Anything else is a gamble....


I am still running SATA (Glacer has no 8-way T splitter), just I want to run the Blademasters on a y-splitter in CPU_OPT and the Glacer pump speed controller in CPU_FAN.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kraanipea*
> 
> Update after pump being 3 hours on its side. The air bubbles are starting to go away, only a little left in there. I think i can put it in my PC soon. Looks like when pump is working on 100% for long, it will clear itself out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll give another update when i put it in my PC.


Another thing that helped me get air out was turning the pump off for like 1min And then I would move it around a bit and turn it back on. That helped get the final last air out.

Honestly a real reservoir is the best thing I think the h220 could have. For the price and everything you get the h220 is amazing but a swiftech microres would help keep the air out of the pump way better. Its maybe why they changed the design so much on the h220x besides the patent issue.


----------



## Kraanipea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Another thing that helped me get air out was turning the pump off for like 1min And then I would move it around a bit and turn it back on. That helped get the final last air out.
> 
> Honestly a real reservoir is the best thing I think the h220 could have. For the price and everything you get the h220 is amazing but a swiftech microres would help keep the air out of the pump way better. Its maybe why they changed the design so much on the h220x besides the patent issue.


I just put it back in the PC, i got some air bubbles again but i hope they will mostly clear out after a while on 100%. Also the pump has a mechanical hum to it, which i think is really bad. I'm afraid the pump is going to break soon. I have no idea why it has started making it. Outside the case it was working fine without any hums. I barely touched or moved the pump while putting it in the case. (I think some air bubbles just went away from the pump because it got a little quieter)

EDIT: All air just went out, no bubbles!







But now I'm stuck with this mechanical hum







. I'll try to post a video of it


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I am still running SATA (Glacer has no 8-way T splitter), just I want to run the Blademasters on a y-splitter in CPU_OPT and the Glacer pump speed controller in CPU_FAN.


What Martin said is absolutely correct, but since you're running the Glacer, is not applicable in your case. The Glacer only has 2 leads on the fan plug- the rpm sensor and the PWM wire, so it can be plugged into the fan header without a splitter, as long as you plug the SATA end to the power supply. Without the SATA plug hooked up the pump won't have power.

According to Bryan, the latest H220s have the same wiring as the Glacer in that respect, which I'm glad to hear







.


----------



## Kraanipea

Here's the hum I got after i put the pump inside my PC.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I am still running SATA (Glacer has no 8-way T splitter), just I want to run the Blademasters on a y-splitter in CPU_OPT and the Glacer pump speed controller in CPU_FAN.


Ahh, sorry. I had splitter use in mind. I wouldn't do it with a regular Y, you need one of the PSU PWM splitters. There are a few out there other than Swiftechs that you might like:

EK has one here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14982/cab-627/EK_4-Pin_PWM_4-Way_Splitter_Cable_-_Sleeved_Black_Black.html?tl=g2c251s636

or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16798/cab-1008/Akasa_Flexa_FP3S_3-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_w_SATA_Power_Auxiliary_Connector_AK-CBFA06-30.html?tl=g2c251s1325

The trick is getting power from the PSU as opposed to the motherboard.










You could also easily make your own with the right connectors, just need to draw power and ground from the PSU, send one (and only one rpm)signal to the motherboard, and connect both PWM wires to the motherboard header. A Sata connector, two male 4 pin headers and one female 4 pin head connectors is all you would need. Or buy the splitter premade.

I tried to look up the glacier 2400rpm fan current limit, but I can't find it. The similar 2000rpm model has a .36amp spec per their site so two of those is still a hefty .72amp x 12V = 8.6W.

The glacier 2400dpm fans are higher speed yet, so you would likely be looking at even more than 8W. 12w maybe? Not sure but higher. An actual load test would be needed, I find fan current specs are sometimes off a bit. Regardless any fan at 2400RPM is going to be pretty power hungry too.

That's too much for my liking without one of the better splitters that draws from the PSU.

I personally don't like seeing more than 2W or so put on a MB fan header even though some MB headers may be rated to 1AMP/12W or higher.

I have seen a lot of so called 30W fan controllers struggle past 10W and fail with only 18w so i have generally used a 1/3rd rule when power planning. A header rated for 10W I wouldn't recommend more than a single 3W fan, etc. Perhaps I am too conservative, but I like things operating better than average or at their breaking limit.

Get an EK or Akasa splitter that pulls power directly from the PSU.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Ahh, sorry. I had splitter use in mind. I wouldn't do it with a regular Y, you need one of the PSU PWM splitters. There are a few out there other than Swiftechs that you might like:
> 
> EK has one here:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14982/cab-627/EK_4-Pin_PWM_4-Way_Splitter_Cable_-_Sleeved_Black_Black.html?tl=g2c251s636
> 
> or
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16798/cab-1008/Akasa_Flexa_FP3S_3-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_w_SATA_Power_Auxiliary_Connector_AK-CBFA06-30.html?tl=g2c251s1325
> 
> The trick is getting power from the PSU as opposed to the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also easily make your own with the right connectors, just need to draw power and ground from the PSU, send one (and only one rpm)signal to the motherboard, and connect both PWM wires to the motherboard header. A Sata connector, two male 4 pin headers and one female 4 pin head connectors is all you would need. Or buy the splitter premade.
> 
> I tried to look up the glacier 2400rpm fan current limit, but I can't find it. The similar 2000rpm model has a .36amp spec per their site so two of those is still a hefty .72amp x 12V = 8.6W.
> 
> The glacier 2400dpm fans are higher speed yet, so you would likely be looking at even more than 8W. 12w maybe? Not sure but higher. An actual load test would be needed, I find fan current specs are sometimes off a bit. Regardless any fan at 2400RPM is going to be pretty power hungry too.
> 
> That's too much for my liking without one of the better splitters that draws from the PSU.
> 
> I personally don't like seeing more than 2W or so put on a MB fan header even though some MB headers may be rated to 1AMP/12W or higher.
> 
> I have seen a lot of so called 30W fan controllers struggle past 10W and fail with only 18w so i have generally used a 1/3rd rule when power planning. A header rated for 10W I wouldn't recommend more than a single 3W fan, etc. Perhaps I am too conservative, but I like things operating better than average or at their breaking limit.
> 
> Get an EK or Akasa splitter that pulls power directly from the PSU.


My idea was to use a PWM header "Y splitter" for the blademasters only, the Glacer will be powered via SATA and PWM control (CPU_FAN) while the Glacer's two fans are using these in the CPU_OPT header. Otherwise I will put the blademasters in CPU_OPT and CHA_FAN, put the H220 to CPU_FAN and set them to the same temperature speed/cap in Q-FAN. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026

Edit: Yeah, I will get the splitter, hope it is not a cable nightmare.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I am still running SATA (Glacer has no 8-way T splitter), just I want to run the Blademasters on a y-splitter in CPU_OPT and the Glacer pump speed controller in CPU_FAN.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh, sorry. I had splitter use in mind. I wouldn't do it with a regular Y, you need one of the PSU PWM splitters. There are a few out there other than Swiftechs that you might like:
> 
> EK has one here:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14982/cab-627/EK_4-Pin_PWM_4-Way_Splitter_Cable_-_Sleeved_Black_Black.html?tl=g2c251s636
> 
> or
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16798/cab-1008/Akasa_Flexa_FP3S_3-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_w_SATA_Power_Auxiliary_Connector_AK-CBFA06-30.html?tl=g2c251s1325
> 
> The trick is getting power from the PSU as opposed to the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also easily make your own with the right connectors, just need to draw power and ground from the PSU, send one (and only one rpm)signal to the motherboard, and connect both PWM wires to the motherboard header. A Sata connector, two male 4 pin headers and one female 4 pin head connectors is all you would need. Or buy the splitter premade.
> 
> I tried to look up the glacier 2400rpm fan current limit, but I can't find it. The similar 2000rpm model has a .36amp spec per their site so two of those is still a hefty .72amp x 12V = 8.6W.
> 
> The glacier 2400dpm fans are higher speed yet, so you would likely be looking at even more than 8W. 12w maybe? Not sure but higher. An actual load test would be needed, I find fan current specs are sometimes off a bit. Regardless any fan at 2400RPM is going to be pretty power hungry too.
> 
> That's too much for my liking without one of the better splitters that draws from the PSU.
> 
> I personally don't like seeing more than 2W or so put on a MB fan header even though some MB headers may be rated to 1AMP/12W or higher.
> 
> I have seen a lot of so called 30W fan controllers struggle past 10W and fail with only 18w so i have generally used a 1/3rd rule when power planning. A header rated for 10W I wouldn't recommend more than a single 3W fan, etc. Perhaps I am too conservative, but I like things operating better than average or at their breaking limit.
> 
> Get an EK or Akasa splitter that pulls power directly from the PSU.
Click to expand...

i agree best worst case scenario you lose a PWM chip and it kills your header use, worst, it ruins the mobo


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> My idea was to use a PWM header "Y splitter" for the blademasters only, the Glacer will be powered via SATA and PWM control (CPU_FAN) while the Glacer's two fans are using these in the CPU_OPT header. Otherwise I will put the blademasters in CPU_OPT and CHA_FAN, put the H220 to CPU_FAN and set them to the same temperature speed/cap in Q-FAN. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026
> 
> Edit: Yeah, I will get the splitter, hope it is not a cable nightmare.


That newegg splitter you linked will draw all power from the MB. You could use that to build your own PSU fed splitter, but as is would draw everything from the MB.

Has anyone measured the actual current draw at 12v of the 2400rpm model?

I tested the 2000rpm model here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?261778-120mm-Fan-Testing-on-an-MCR120-Radiator-Round-6&p=4622774&viewfull=1#post4622774

The fan sticker notes .36amps x 12v = 4.3Watts.









However when I tested it, it measured about half or only 2.2 watts.









I am not sure how much more the 2400 variant draws, but it does suggest that the spec rating may be very conservative.

I know sometimes they use the startup current draw which is higher than continuous power.


----------



## Martinm210

Fyi I found this frosty tech review that notes fan specs at .2amp which is about 2.4W per fan.
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2748

That seems more likely than the .36 or higher on the 2000rpm model sticker.

if they are just 2.4W you would see about 5 watt if you used a normal splitter. That may be ok depending on the motherboard. You could always ask you MB manuf. support if that would be ok. If it lets out the magic smoke you should be covered. I have just had real bad luck frying fan controller channels for far less than their rated outputs.


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Yeah, don't do it. 4 pin "FAN" header doesn't mean it's good for a "PUMP". Pump draws 6 watts(most fans are 1-2w), most 4 pin headers default to voltage regulation which is suspected may damage pumps. The only way to ensure PWM control is used would be to individually check that 12v remains using a multimeter when speed is reduced. You can't check PWM signal without a scope and any 4 pin fan will slow down via either voltage or PWM so testing with a 4pin fan will not show you. Also the splitter not only splits the PWM signal it also draws ALL power direct from the power supply which ensures a solidly regulated heavy guage 12v power source and offloads the motherboard from doing any power feed duties (MB then only sends pwm signal which is nothing).
> 
> Running the pump off the motherboard is IMO asking for trouble.
> 
> Do it right and hide the splitter behind the MB tray and use it. If cables are not long enough, extend and sleeve. It may take a few minutes longer, but imagine how much time you'll spend if you kill the pump OR your motherboard.
> 
> Some motherboards may be rated to handle the current load but think about how tiny those wee little motherboard traces are and now think about the size of wire feeding the pump. Splitter only or you may be sorry. There is good reason the glacier and h100i omit the option and force direct Sata power to the pump. I would not be surprised if the 220x does the same thing.
> 
> 6 watts off Pump load is no different than plugging 6 ea 1800 rpm gentle typhoons into a single fan header, would you do that?


Thank you sir for a very informative reply







; seems i will have to go back to the basic how i had it set up the first time....


----------



## X-Alt

Alright, real splitter it def is..


----------



## imran27

Hey guyz,
As of now I don't own any of the above mentioned coolers but planning to get one.
I have my system inside a cooler master elite 311 mid-tower case, you can see my sig, I'm interested in getting H220 or H320 but I don't know whether it would fit in my case, if anyone has either of them inside a case of similar dimensions plz clear it for me. (I know it'd need to cut 3x120mm fan holes which I'll definitely do)


----------



## marc0053

Is it safe to run 2 pumps off of the swiftech 8-fan splitter to take advantage of only 1 pwn fan header instead of 2 separate ones? H220 and mcp35x pumps?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Ahh, sorry. I had splitter use in mind. I wouldn't do it with a regular Y, you need one of the PSU PWM splitters. There are a few out there other than Swiftechs that you might like:
> 
> EK has one here:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14982/cab-627/EK_4-Pin_PWM_4-Way_Splitter_Cable_-_Sleeved_Black_Black.html?tl=g2c251s636
> 
> Get an EK or Akasa splitter that pulls power directly from the PSU.


Aw man! I couldn't find a 4 way splitter at PPPCs to save my life! They only had 2, 3, and 6 way splitters. So now I have 4x3 way splitters instead of 2x4 way splitters


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Is it safe to run 2 pumps off of the swiftech 8-fan splitter to take advantage of only 1 pwn fan header instead of 2 separate ones? H220 and mcp35x pumps?


It should be perfectly safe to do that. Remember, the 35X has its own power connector so it isn't taking any power from the splitter. Also be sure to plug into channel 1 the device that you want reported to the motherboard.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It should be perfectly safe to do that. Remember, the 35X has its own power connector so it isn't taking any power from the splitter. Also be sure to plug into channel 1 the device that you want reported to the motherboard.


Thanks again Bram








The reason I want to plug my mcp 35x into the 8 fan splitter is that I have a damaged wire on the pump and I think that was the cause of me losing a RIVE board last week and almost lost a 2nd one but was able to revbive it from the dreadful 00 debug code.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Thanks again Bram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I want to plug my mcp 35x into the 8 fan splitter is that I have a damaged wire on the pump and I think that was the cause of me losing a RIVE board last week and almost lost a 2nd one but was able to revbive it from the dreadful 00 debug code.


that's the 12v wire. You need that to properly power the pump. Unless you're proficient with splicing and heatshrinking wires, IMO it'd be best to toss it or sell it. That being said, it shouldn't be too hard to repair.


----------



## X-Alt

Replace with MCP50X much?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Replace with MCP50X much?


Certainly the perfect opportunity. The MCP50X will be cheaper than the 35X.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> is it possible the setting got switched to voltage ?


Well I just happened to look down at my oc panel readout and the pump is now running at~2600rpm, oh well.


----------



## Nburnes

Long time no post (from me)

Hope I can join your guys club here!







This is a huge upgrade for me from my last machine I built in '09. Went from a x2-5000 that was unlocked (to a quad core (secret deneb cores)) and overclocked with 4GB of DDR2 and a trusty Rosewill 500W Performance power supply, with a Hyper 212+, wrapped in some generic case, to this machine here. Specs are FX-8350 on an Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2.0, 16GB 2400MHz DDR3, 256 GB SSD, soon to be 780 (up from my 460) and this beautiful H220. All running fantastic in Ubuntu 14.04 with full PWM control.

Sorry for the potato pictures btw.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Watagump

So, am I correct in saying the 240l with the SATA power connector is a way of helping the pumps not take damage from people using just a 4 pin mobo header and no splitter?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So, am I correct in saying the 240l with the SATA power connector is a way of helping the pumps not take damage from people using just a 4 pin mobo header and no splitter?


That and the fact that the Glacer uses between 10-12w at full speed compared to the 6w H220. If I understand Bryan though, later H220s also have the SATA plug as well, unless he was talking about the H220X.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> That and the fact that the Glacer uses between 10-12w at full speed compared to the 6w H220. If I understand Bryan though, later H220s also have the SATA plug as well, unless he was talking about the H220X.


I am inclined to think after reading the recent posts about not just using a header, is what cause my pump to go down. I did not use the splitter, but my pump was running at about 1200rpm, which doesn't matter if voltage is what damaged it.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am inclined to think after reading the recent posts about not just using a header, is what cause my pump to go down. I did not use the splitter, but my pump was running at about 1200rpm, which doesn't matter if voltage is what damaged it.


It's quite possible, seen a few like that. I'm glad the new and upcoming units all have SATA power to guarantee 12v. Much better, safer way to roll IMO.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nburnes*
> 
> Long time no post (from me)
> 
> Hope I can join your guys club here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a huge upgrade for me from my last machine I built in '09. Went from a x2-5000 that was unlocked (to a quad core (secret deneb cores)) and overclocked with 4GB of DDR2 and a trusty Rosewill 500W Performance power supply, with a Hyper 212+, wrapped in some generic case, to this machine here. Specs are FX-8350 on an Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2.0, 16GB 2400MHz DDR3, 256 GB SSD, soon to be 780 (up from my 460) and this beautiful H220. All running fantastic in Ubuntu 14.04 with full PWM control.
> 
> Sorry for the potato pictures btw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


welcome


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> That and the fact that the Glacer uses between 10-12w at full speed compared to the 6w H220. If I understand Bryan though, later H220s also have the SATA plug as well, unless he was talking about the H220X.


I was talking about the PWM splitter having a SATA connector. The new H220X will also have a SATA connector though and be very similar to the Glacer 240L.


----------



## Phelan

Gotcha, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Kraanipea

Got done installing my loop. You can add me to the club too


----------



## Watagump

I took my owners club out of my sig, I feel so alone.


----------



## thefivetheory

First off, apologies as this has probably been asked and answered, but I can't seem to figure out what to search for to find it...

I have an H220 installed for my CPU. I also just purchased a waterblock for my 290X. I will be adding the GPU to the loop.

My question is this: if I have both 120 mm fans plugged into the PWM splitter that comes with the kit, which is then plugged into the mobo header, and with the pump plugged into channel one of the splitter, how do the H220's fans know to respond to GPU temp? Is the system not solely tied to CPU temps? Is it based on the H220's temps instead?

Probably a dumb question, sorry...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thefivetheory*
> 
> First off, apologies as this has probably been asked and answered, but I can't seem to figure out what to search for to find it...
> 
> I have an H220 installed for my CPU. I also just purchased a waterblock for my 290X. I will be adding the GPU to the loop.
> 
> My question is this: if I have both 120 mm fans plugged into the PWM splitter that comes with the kit, which is then plugged into the mobo header, and with the pump plugged into channel one of the splitter, how do the H220's fans know to respond to GPU temp? Is the system not solely tied to CPU temps? Is it based on the H220's temps instead?
> 
> Probably a dumb question, sorry...


Not a dumb question at all. The pump will run based on the temp of the CPU and this will depend on the curve that you set in the BIOS or your motherboard's software. The fans will ramp up also based on this same curve. The GPU is not part of this equation. I believe that some motherboards though will let you base fan speeds on your GPU temperature. You'll need to consult your manual to see if this is possible.


----------



## marc0053

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It should be perfectly safe to do that. Remember, the 35X has its own power connector so it isn't taking any power from the splitter. Also be sure to plug into channel 1 the device that you want reported to the motherboard.


So the molex 4 pin from the 8-fan splitter should be safe to run power from the h220 pump and the mcp35x pump?
The only reason i want to do this is because my mcp35x has a damaged yellow wire and i almost fried 2 RIVE motherboards possibly due to this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> So the molex 4 pin from the 8-fan splitter should be safe to run power from the h220 pump and the mcp35x pump?
> The only reason i want to do this is because my mcp35x has a damaged yellow wire and i almost fried 2 RIVE motherboards possibly due to this.


Like I stated, the PWM wires from the MCP35X don't provide any power. They just report an RPM signal and allow for RPM adjustment. That broken yellow wire won't be solved by plugging the pump into the 8 way splitter. I wouldn't plug that pump with a frayed wire into anything to be honest with you. That's a power wire and therefore it needs direct power from the PSU.


----------



## thefivetheory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not a dumb question at all. The pump will run based on the temp of the CPU and this will depend on the curve that you set in the BIOS or your motherboard's software. The fans will ramp up also based on this same curve. The GPU is not part of this equation. I believe that some motherboards though will let you base fan speeds on your GPU temperature. You'll need to consult your manual to see if this is possible.


Ah... Okay, so the GPU gets cooled with whatever fan speed the H220 is currently running at based on CPU temps, which I can control via a fan curve. And I suppose I can step up the fan curve if I need lower GPU temps under load?

That makes sense, I guess I was thinking it should be more complicated for some reason. Thanks!


----------



## AsheyB

Something totally random has happened to my h220, the fans stop working when logged into windows but work perfectly fine if in bios or just at the log in screen, both fans are running on the PWM splitter and the splitter is plugged into the CPU_FAN on the motherboard with the CPU cable plugged into CHA_1 on the splitter...

Any one willing to help?








Many thanks in advance


----------



## Scorpion667

Hey Bryan, quick question regarding my new H220. I have two units, one is the first batch (in spare rig now), second is the revised model with the sata PWM splitter and hollowed pump base. The swivel barbs on the second unit pump/waterblock assembly will not budge. This is not necessarily an issue as it keeps my hoses from plopping on top of the video card but I was wondering:

1. Will this cause any long-term issues? Unit has been running flawlessly for a week, no bubbles, no odd noise from pump whatsoever. Great temps.
2. I have applied a decent amount of force and the swivel barbs did not budge even slightly. I'm afraid to bend the barbs/damage the seals if I try to push it harder. Would putting the unit in a cold or warm environment help loosen up the swivel a bit?

I'll probably just leave it as is for now, but was wondering. I would not RMA the unit for a small issue (for me) as this


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Something totally random has happened to my h220, the fans stop working when logged into windows but work perfectly fine if in bios or just at the log in screen, both fans are running on the PWM splitter and the splitter is plugged into the CPU_FAN on the motherboard with the CPU cable plugged into CHA_1 on the splitter...
> 
> Any one willing to help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance


I don't think I've come across this before. What motherboard are you running and are you sure that your CPU_Fan header is set for PWM control? Some motherboards let you change from voltage regulation to PWM control in the BIOS.

In thinking about your issue some more please disregard my previous post. This has to be discussed with our engineer and he just left for the day. I'll have to get with him tomorrow morning regarding this issue because we've never seen it before.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Hey Bryan, quick question regarding my new H220. I have two units, one is the first batch (in spare rig now), second is the revised model with the sata PWM splitter and hollowed pump base. The swivel barbs on the second unit pump/waterblock assembly will not budge. This is not necessarily an issue as it keeps my hoses from plopping on top of the video card but I was wondering:
> 
> 1. Will this cause any long-term issues? Unit has been running flawlessly for a week, no bubbles, no odd noise from pump whatsoever. Great temps.
> 2. I have applied a decent amount of force and the swivel barbs did not budge even slightly. I'm afraid to bend the barbs/damage the seals if I try to push it harder. Would putting the unit in a cold or warm environment help loosen up the swivel a bit?
> 
> I'll probably just leave it as is for now, but was wondering. I would not RMA the unit for a small issue (for me) as this


Due to some complaints that we've had about the barb swivels feeling loose they were made tighter in the later versions. They shouldn't be impossible to rotate though. I've noticed that on some units they are difficult to turn, but not impossible. I suspect that you've just been too cautious to apply enough force to turn them. They should still swivel though.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Hey Bryan, quick question regarding my new H220. I have two units, one is the first batch (in spare rig now), second is the revised model with the sata PWM splitter and hollowed pump base. The swivel barbs on the second unit pump/waterblock assembly will not budge. This is not necessarily an issue as it keeps my hoses from plopping on top of the video card but I was wondering:
> 
> 1. Will this cause any long-term issues? Unit has been running flawlessly for a week, no bubbles, no odd noise from pump whatsoever. Great temps.
> 2. I have applied a decent amount of force and the swivel barbs did not budge even slightly. I'm afraid to bend the barbs/damage the seals if I try to push it harder. Would putting the unit in a cold or warm environment help loosen up the swivel a bit?
> 
> I'll probably just leave it as is for now, but was wondering. I would not RMA the unit for a small issue (for me) as this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to some complaints that we've had about the barb swivels feeling loose they were made tighter in the later versions. They shouldn't be impossible to rotate though. I've noticed that on some units they are difficult to turn, but not impossible. I suspect that you've just been too cautious to apply enough force to turn them. They should still swivel though.
Click to expand...

You're right I was being overly cautious. I was in a rush to get my rig up and running to start overclocking my new 3930k (had to RMA the old one). I spent probably like 6 seconds trying to move it









Cheers!


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think I've come across this before. What motherboard are you running and are you sure that your CPU_Fan header is set for PWM control? Some motherboards let you change from voltage regulation to PWM control in the BIOS.
> 
> In thinking about your issue some more please disregard my previous post. This has to be discussed with our engineer and he just left for the day. I'll have to get with him tomorrow morning regarding this issue because we've never seen it before.


Hi the funny thing is it worked perfectly before, my motherboard is an ASUS Z87 Gryphon, its just odd that it suddenly stops working as soon as i log into windows itself ...

I appreciate your reply and hope to hear from you


----------



## X-Alt

I got myself a Swiftech PWM splitter, Glacer is here and I am waiting on it..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Hi the funny thing is it worked perfectly before, my motherboard is an ASUS Z87 Gryphon, its just odd that it suddenly stops working as soon as i log into windows itself ...
> 
> I appreciate your reply and hope to hear from you


How long have you had this kit and when did it start exhibiting this behavior? Also, can you confirm that the pump also stops? I'm communicating with our engineer via email and these are the questions he's asking.

Also, is the splitter a Molex powered one or SATA?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to some complaints that we've had about the barb swivels feeling loose they were made tighter in the later versions. They shouldn't be impossible to rotate though. I've noticed that on some units they are difficult to turn, but not impossible. I suspect that you've just been too cautious to apply enough force to turn them. They should still swivel though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> You're right I was being overly cautious. I was in a rush to get my rig up and running to start overclocking my new 3930k (had to RMA the old one). I spent probably like 6 seconds trying to move it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


Yeah my h220 was difficult to swivel, I was cautious and tried to spread the load across the whole elbow to not break anything, but it WILL rotate


----------



## shanker

I have the H220 in a MATX case but I want to put it all in a Node 304 for fun. I couldn't find a list of compatible Z77 ITX motherboards. Is that because there aren't any?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not a dumb question at all. The pump will run based on the temp of the CPU and this will depend on the curve that you set in the BIOS or your motherboard's software. The fans will ramp up also based on this same curve. The GPU is not part of this equation. I believe that some motherboards though will let you base fan speeds on your GPU temperature. You'll need to consult your manual to see if this is possible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imran27*
> 
> Hey guyz,
> As of now I don't own any of the above mentioned coolers but planning to get one.
> I have my system inside a cooler master elite 311 mid-tower case, you can see my sig, I'm interested in getting H220 or H320 but I don't know whether it would fit in my case, if anyone has either of them inside a case of similar dimensions plz clear it for me. (I know it'd need to cut 3x120mm fan holes which I'll definitely do)


I could not find a single photo on the net of watercooling with that one, so I am guessing there isn't enough height betwee MB and case top to fit both rad and fans. That or nobody wanted to cut holes.

With that said, I used a cramped Roswill case on my kids PC build and mounted an MCR320 radiator on top of the case and cut out a rectangle to match and port holes for the barbs. Then i use blacked out grills and mounted the fans inside the case. It doesn't look too bad really and if I wanted to spend the time to build a shroud that blended the radiator down to the case top with bodywork, I'm sure you could make it look real nice.

Havn't tried it myself, (gpu still on air) but I do know of a few people who went a step further using speedfan to adjust via both CPU and GPU. I think you judt have to add two curves for each heat source then it can ramp up for either one.


----------



## imran27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I could not find a single photo on the net of watercooling with that one, so I am guessing there isn't enough height betwee MB and case top to fit both rad and fans. That or nobody wanted to cut holes.
> 
> With that said, I used a cramped Roswill case on my kids PC build and mounted an MCR320 radiator on top of the case and cut out a rectangle to match and port holes for the barbs. Then i use blacked out grills and mounted the fans inside the case. It doesn't look too bad really and if I wanted to spend the time to build a shroud that blended the radiator down to the case top with bodywork, I'm sure you could make it look real nice.
> 
> Havn't tried it myself, (gpu still on air) but I do know of a few people who went a step further using speedfan to adjust via both CPU and GPU. I think you judt have to add two curves for each heat source then it can ramp up for either one.


I know it can mount an h100isince I've seen people modding the case and doing it, so if the dimensions are nearly the same it shouldn't be a problem, should it?


----------



## herericc

Got my H220 returned, and price adjusted due to a sale that's on this week, yay 25$!

Anyways, the PWM speed adjustment works like a charm now, and the pump is waaaaaaaaaay quieter, both due to the speed adjustment, and the fact that it doesn't have any bubbles in it.

Same overclock as before, 4.5GHz on 8320 with 1.416V Vcore is maxing out ~46*C on the die, and 57*C on the socket. About 10* less on both than with the faulty pump, using 100% pump and fan speeds with the stock fans and 2 bitfenix spectre pros in push/pull.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imran27*
> 
> I know it can mount an h100isince I've seen people modding the case and doing it, so if the dimensions are nearly the same it shouldn't be a problem, should it?


Maybe, H220 is slightly thicker and has that raised reservoir portion. H100i rad is 27mm where the thinner part of the H220 is 29mm. H220 rad plus fans is 54mm so you probably need to do some careful measuring of your particular motherboard.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Anyone know how to Overclock a I7 3770k on a Asus Z77 v pro atx, and i have 16gbs of 1600 mhz Kingston HyperX memory


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Another Question, If an air bubble stays in the pump, would that possibly ruin the unit ?


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to some complaints that we've had about the barb swivels feeling loose they were made tighter in the later versions. They shouldn't be impossible to rotate though. I've noticed that on some units they are difficult to turn, but not impossible. I suspect that you've just been too cautious to apply enough force to turn them. They should still swivel though.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> You're right I was being overly cautious. I was in a rush to get my rig up and running to start overclocking my new 3930k (had to RMA the old one). I spent probably like 6 seconds trying to move it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah my h220 was difficult to swivel, I was cautious and tried to spread the load across the whole elbow to not break anything, but it WILL rotate
Click to expand...

Yep you were both right. Worked no problem once I got a good firm grip and. I like this better than the release H220. Makes it easier to manage the tubing in smaller cases like my Midi R2.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think I've come across this before. What motherboard are you running and are you sure that your CPU_Fan header is set for PWM control? Some motherboards let you change from voltage regulation to PWM control in the BIOS.
> 
> In thinking about your issue some more please disregard my previous post. This has to be discussed with our engineer and he just left for the day. I'll have to get with him tomorrow morning regarding this issue because we've never seen it before.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi the funny thing is it worked perfectly before, my motherboard is an ASUS Z87 Gryphon, its just odd that it suddenly stops working as soon as i log into windows itself ...
> 
> I appreciate your reply and hope to hear from you
Click to expand...

my bet is a few things are going on ,

your unit is running off of voltage control and when you log in to windows it drops volts too much to keep the fans running.

i would start in bios and change the control to pwm

also make sure you only plug it into


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Anyone know how to Overclock a I7 3770k on a Asus Z77 v pro atx, and i have 16gbs of 1600 mhz Kingston HyperX memory


Here you go! We have a few guides to help you out on OCN

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

or

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

Its very simple on Ivy Bridge IMO! Just a few adjustments need to be made


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How long have you had this kit and when did it start exhibiting this behavior? Also, can you confirm that the pump also stops? I'm communicating with our engineer via email and these are the questions he's asking.
> 
> Also, is the splitter a Molex powered one or SATA?


The splitter is a SATA cable, i have owned this pump since december, i had shorted the tubes to fit into my case but that didn't seem to cause any trouble as this problem just occurred yesterday.

This is going to sound very noob of me but how do i tell if the pump has stopped working?


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> *During my experience with H220/320 pumps I noticed one thing. When you will remove the water from the loop it's damm difficult to fill it up again.*
> 
> I have second pump, first died. Second has new type of impeller, but still it's taking much more time to remove air from it. If I can suggest something. When you refill the pump, connect it to the power supply and the you will remove the biggest air bubbles run the pump for few hours in 100% speed (longer is better). Pump can't be connected to socket, and the best is to place pump really in the lowest place compare to res. During this few hours u can change orientation of the pump, but try to not shake it during working. Ceramic shaft really don't like it. Should help, but H220/320 pump are quite nasty. *It's 50/50 chances to remove all air*.


Planning to add a GPU to my H320 at some stage, but as my pump is completely silent so far I'm not sure I want to risk getting bubbles stuck in it lol.

Would adding a res help this in any way, or you have to get all the air out first anyway? (WC noob obviously)

Cheers


----------



## Kraanipea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> The splitter is a SATA cable, i have owned this pump since december, i had shorted the tubes to fit into my case but that didn't seem to cause any trouble as this problem just occurred yesterday.
> 
> This is going to sound very noob of me but how do i tell if the pump has stopped working?


Do your temps get hot? Can you hear any noise from the pump? What RPM do the programs show for CPU fan. That is usually the pump RPM actually, so you can check that as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Planning to add a GPU to my H320 at some stage, but as my pump is completely silent so far I'm not sure I want to risk getting bubbles stuck in it lol.
> 
> Would adding a res help this in any way, or you have to get all the air out first anyway? (WC noob obviously)
> 
> Cheers


I just added a GPU to my loop and I was having a lot of problems with air. But actually the only way it got solved was time! I let the pump ran upside down over night at 100%. Then I turned the pump like it should be in my PC. Bubbles came back but they were gone after 2 hours again. Then in my PC it ran on 100% for two days. Now I put it on PWM and it's silent without any bubbles. You just have to be very patient. I also disassembled the pump like Lord Nikkon did in his video to help with the bubbles but I'm not sure if that helped or the time.

In my opinion, the res wouldn't help unless you get a pump which is not connected to the block. I think the bubbles will still stay inside the block/pump. But I'm a WC noob too so don't take my word for it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabula*
> 
> Planning to add a GPU to my H320 at some stage, but as my pump is completely silent so far I'm not sure I want to risk getting bubbles stuck in it lol.
> 
> Would adding a res help this in any way, or you have to get all the air out first anyway? (WC noob obviously)
> 
> Cheers


I have had air issues in three builds that I did caused mainly by the fact that space only allowed for the res to be mounted facing down. I have added a res to three different H220 (one was actually a 240L), and it took care of the air problems I was experiencing immediately in two of them. The third unit had another issue, and Swiftech replaced the unit for me. The new unit never developed any air bubble issues even with the res facing down.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> The splitter is a SATA cable, i have owned this pump since december, i had shorted the tubes to fit into my case but that didn't seem to cause any trouble as this problem just occurred yesterday.
> 
> This is going to sound very noob of me but how do i tell if the pump has stopped working?


If the fans stop running when you're in the OS then the pump likely has as well. Please PM me so we can see about replacing your splitter.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Is it Safe to be running the pump at full speed? it seems to me like there is a air bubble in my unit, when Rpms go to 2000 a ticking sound starts, but once i ramp it up to max of 2960 RPMS it seems to go away, any tips or tricks I should know? I have the Fill port facing up in my haf X nvidia


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Is it Safe to be running the pump at full speed? it seems to me like there is a air bubble in my unit, when Rpms go to 2000 a ticking sound starts, but once i ramp it up to max of 2960 RPMS it seems to go away, any tips or tricks I should know? I have the Fill port facing up in my haf X nvidia


This pump can run at full speed without any issues. Please try the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## novetan

I seem to have misplaced *one* of the screws from my intel mounting set. Just upgraded to a 4670k from Phenom II and I can't mount my H220) now. Which screws do I order from the Swiftech site (I want to make sure I get it right because the shipping to Canada ends up being more than the parts.

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *novetan*
> 
> I seem to have misplaced *one* of the screws from my intel mounting set. Just upgraded to a 4670k from Phenom II and I can't mount my H220) now. Which screws do I order from the Swiftech site (I want to make sure I get it right because the shipping to Canada ends up being more than the parts.
> 
> Thanks!


This is what you need to purchase http://www.swiftech.com/APD2-S1155-1366-KIT.aspx


----------



## novetan

Thanks for the prompt response. Much appreciated!


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the fans stop running when you're in the OS then the pump likely has as well. Please PM me so we can see about replacing your splitter.


I'm not sure how familiar you are to ASUS suite however that is how iv managed to get the fans working BUT only if i select full speed profile, silent-standard-turbo do nothing but if i select full speed the fans seem to be working,

I'm getting 21c idle and 28-31c gaming. Iv always use to have the standard profile selected as full speed seems to be VERY loud, the speed of the CPU fan according to ASUS suite is 2980rmp which seems odd, i have multiple sensors attached to the CPU block h220 and one is saying its at 20c and another is 22c, this makes me feel a lot safe.

However i'm not happy with the speed the fans are spinning as its very loud but i guess i'm stuck unless someone has a solution?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> I'm not sure how familiar you are to ASUS suite however that is how iv managed to get the fans working BUT only if i select full speed profile, silent-standard-turbo do nothing but if i select full speed the fans seem to be working,
> 
> I'm getting 21c idle and 28-31c gaming. Iv always use to have the standard profile selected as full speed seems to be VERY loud, the speed of the CPU fan according to ASUS suite is 2980rmp which seems odd, i have multiple sensors attached to the CPU block h220 and one is saying its at 20c and another is 22c, this makes me feel a lot safe.
> 
> However i'm not happy with the speed the fans are spinning as its very loud but i guess i'm stuck unless someone has a solution?


Speedfan can be your friend. Most motherboard software is pretty limiting on control compared to what you can do with speedfan. It takes some learning and trial and error, but nothing comes close in terms of control that speedfan can provide.

Both of my systems MSI and Gigabyte were pretty useless on PWM control until I switched to speedfan.

Unfortunately it is a little advanced and makes it less user friendly. It is also a little different to setup depending on the motherboard. Give itba shot and see...it is priced right (free) so no reason not to try.

Here is a slightly dated write up I did using speedfan on my board that may help get you started:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/5/

Once you have it all set up, you can control via many point curves toballow a nice smooth or stepped transitioning. Some folks find that stepping allows skipping over harsh harmonic rpm points etc. Tons of control..









I have also heard you can create for both CPU and GPU heat throttling. I haven't tried that myself, but I would if I had a combined loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> I'm not sure how familiar you are to ASUS suite however that is how iv managed to get the fans working BUT only if i select full speed profile, silent-standard-turbo do nothing but if i select full speed the fans seem to be working,
> 
> I'm getting 21c idle and 28-31c gaming. Iv always use to have the standard profile selected as full speed seems to be VERY loud, the speed of the CPU fan according to ASUS suite is 2980rmp which seems odd, i have multiple sensors attached to the CPU block h220 and one is saying its at 20c and another is 22c, this makes me feel a lot safe.
> 
> However i'm not happy with the speed the fans are spinning as its very loud but i guess i'm stuck unless someone has a solution?


So your connector is a SATA connector and you've got the pump connected to the CPU fan header via channel 1 on the included splitter? But you're saying that even with it configured this way your fans and pump will stop when you boot into Windows. The only way to resolve this is to set your AI Suite profile to full speed?

Either way the fans and pump shouldn't just stop. Even if they were set to 0 they should still default to the lowest speed and not stop. We've never seen this behavior before.

Please try plugging a fan directly into your CPU fan header to see if it behaves the same way. During this just temporarily disconnect the splitter from your CPU fan header. Let me know if the fan still stops when it's just connected straight to the CPU fan header.


----------



## Watagump

Next design from Swiftech for these units should just have built in speed adjustments on the pumps. Screw all the PWM potential issues, make it as simple as turning a switch.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Next design from Swiftech for these units should just have built in speed adjustments on the pumps. Screw all the PWM potential issues, make it as simple as turning a switch.


Make a clicky button that switches from H100 style knobs to PWM control, raise price by $15, problem solved. WE WILL TAKE YOUR MONEY RIGHT NOW!1!1!!!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Make a clicky button that switches from H100 style knobs to PWM control, raise price by $15, problem solved. WE WILL TAKE YOUR MONEY RIGHT NOW!1!1!!!


Anything to get away from the PWM issue IMHO is a good thing. Like you I also figured if they had to charge slightly more it would be worth it. These units are suppose to be simple plug in and work, having speed adjustments on the pump would be easier for all. No software, going into the bios etc etc.


----------



## Mega Man

ill take my pwm adj thanks,

pwm + aquaero 6xt = heaven !


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill take my pwm adj thanks,
> 
> pwm + aquaero 6xt = heaven !


I knew someone would come try to ruin my brilliant idea.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I knew someone would come try to ruin my brilliant idea.


Still, makes sense to at least give the option...


----------



## Mega Man

making sense and profitability though are not always the same not that i am saying this is a bad idea, but i like the current tech


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> I'm not sure how familiar you are to ASUS suite however that is how iv managed to get the fans working BUT only if i select full speed profile, silent-standard-turbo do nothing but if i select full speed the fans seem to be working,
> 
> I'm getting 21c idle and 28-31c gaming. Iv always use to have the standard profile selected as full speed seems to be VERY loud, the speed of the CPU fan according to ASUS suite is 2980rmp which seems odd, i have multiple sensors attached to the CPU block h220 and one is saying its at 20c and another is 22c, this makes me feel a lot safe.
> 
> However i'm not happy with the speed the fans are spinning as its very loud but i guess i'm stuck unless someone has a solution?


Hey, what cpu do you have ? I have the 3770k and my cpu temps jump to 50 while gaming and I ran Prime 95 and i jumped to 66C this is stock 3.5 mhz, How did you get your temps that low?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> making sense and profitability though are not always the same not that i am saying this is a bad idea, but i like the current tech


People that still want to use PWN can run the pump at full speed using the adjustment. I say it gives everyone a viable option, sounds like a win win for everyone.


----------



## Phelan

Most PWM-driven devices in general can be damaged with voltage modulation, it's just part of the design.


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> So your connector is a SATA connector and you've got the pump connected to the CPU fan header via channel 1 on the included splitter? But you're saying that even with it configured this way your fans and pump will stop when you boot into Windows. The only way to resolve this is to set your AI Suite profile to full speed?
> 
> Either way the fans and pump shouldn't just stop. Even if they were set to 0 they should still default to the lowest speed and not stop. We've never seen this behavior before.
> 
> Please try plugging a fan directly into your CPU fan header to see if it behaves the same way. During this just temporarily disconnect the splitter from your CPU fan header. Let me know if the fan still stops when it's just connected straight to the CPU fan header.


Iv disconnected the PWM splitter, plugged in the CPU connector into the CPU_FAN and one fan into the CPU_OPT (i can't boot into windows without a CPU connector connected to the CPU_FAN on the motherboard so have opted for this way), same problem happens again it will only spin if i select full speed so i'm guessing this eliminates the PWM being faulty.

Here is an attached video of me changing the profiles, please also be aware i have tried this with the standard fans as well but since they were louder i opted to stick with the Noctua till this problem gets solved or till i think of something else...


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hey, what cpu do you have ? I have the 3770k and my cpu temps jump to 50 while gaming and I ran Prime 95 and i jumped to 66C this is stock 3.5 mhz, How did you get your temps that low?


I have the 4670k I'v not done no over clocking or anything as of yet the most iv ever experienced is about 36c you have to remember i'm in the UK and my pc case is in a very cold location, nor do i play heavily games all i play is FIFA, Tomb Raider, NFS and MG Rising.

The temperatures did drop when i changed the fans to Noctua NF12's but only my 2c.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Iv disconnected the PWM splitter, plugged in the CPU connector into the CPU_FAN and one fan into the CPU_OPT (i can't boot into windows without a CPU connector connected to the CPU_FAN on the motherboard so have opted for this way), same problem happens again it will only spin if i select full speed so i'm guessing this eliminates the PWM being faulty.
> 
> Here is an attached video of me changing the profiles, please also be aware i have tried this with the standard fans as well but since they were louder i opted to stick with the Noctua till this problem gets solved or till i think of something else...


Unfortunately then this looks like it's an issue with your motherboard. I've never seen a PWM header behave this way before and I'm guessing that this didn't start happening until after your most recent BIOS update. I can't think of why else this would suddenly just start happening. Contact Asus customer support though. They should be able to help you resolve this issue or get the board replaced.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi guys its been a while since I have posted anything. Recently I returned my H220 and got it replaced with another one and this one WAS dead silent no pump noise, but now its starting to make ticking noise which is different from the other one. Can this noise be resolved ? I have the youtube link here
> 
> 
> 
> , If anyone can help me much appreciated, I just hope I don't have to end up wasting my time again and again returning this pump, just want the plug and play.


probably air trapped in the pump. what impeller revision do you have? it may go away, never go away, or eventually kill you ur pump. I had one make noise like that and then it went away till it failed for a diff reason and another that made a noise up until it died. The noise isnt that uncommon with these units, but what happens to the units as a results is the question.


----------



## agarabaghi

Anyone know if i will run into fittment issues with this mobo and the glacier 240l??

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-LGA1150-Dual-Channel-Motherboard-141-HW-E877-KR/dp/B00G36G87O/ref=sr_1_16?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1390500261&sr=1-16&keywords=1150+motherboard


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> probably air trapped in the pump. what impeller revision do you have? it may go away, never go away, or eventually kill you ur pump. I had one make noise like that and then it went away till it failed for a diff reason and another that made a noise up until it died. The noise isnt that uncommon with these units, but what happens to the units as a results is the question.


It often comes and goes, but whenever i set the pump to max rpms, It is gone. To be honest I am not sure what's the cause, but once I am done my Diploma Exams I will try the suggested methods of removing the air bubbles. Would the pump be damaged if there was a air bubble trapped inside? and I have a dumb question but, how do i know if my pump stops working? Im not sure if this is the right setting to kill my comp if it gets too hot but in the Asus AI suite I set the probe 2 to 77C. I have the new revision one with really stiff swivels and sata power


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Anyone know if i will run into fittment issues with this mobo and the glacier 240l??
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-LGA1150-Dual-Channel-Motherboard-141-HW-E877-KR/dp/B00G36G87O/ref=sr_1_16?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1390500261&sr=1-16&keywords=1150+motherboard


mobo stuff around the socket looks tight. my h220 pump outlet hit the first ram slot on my sabertooth 990fx and i had to roll with slots 2a and 2b. the inlets/outlets stick out of the block a good 1/2"-34/" so make sure there is that much clearance to the left and right of your socket.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> It often comes and goes, but whenever i set the pump to max rpms, It is gone. To be honest I am not sure what's the cause, but once I am done my Diploma Exams I will try the suggested methods of removing the air bubbles. Would the pump be damaged if there was a air bubble trapped inside? and I have a dumb question but, how do i know if my pump stops working? Im not sure if this is the right setting to kill my comp if it gets too hot but in the Asus AI suite I set the probe 2 to 77C. I have the new revision one with really stiff swivels and sata power


if you are quiet, yuo can hear it with fans off or put ear up to it. you can feel it running as well with hand and vibrating pump. if you are going through the splitter, then if the fans are running, the pump should be running. youll be able to feel the pump running and of course, if your cpu temps are going up fast past 50c, 60c, 70c... then its not.

air trapped in a pump can/will eventually kill it. the h220's self bleed through the pump/impeller, there was a impeller revision to correct this.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> if you are quiet, yuo can hear it with fans off or put ear up to it. you can feel it running as well with hand and vibrating pump. if you are going through the splitter, then if the fans are running, the pump should be running. youll be able to feel the pump running and of course, if your cpu temps are going up fast past 50c, 60c, 70c... then its not.
> 
> air trapped in a pump can/will eventually kill it. the h220's self bleed through the pump/impeller, there was a impeller revision to correct this.


If that's the case I will probably stop using my comp and wait until I can try the air bubble methods of removing it, Thanks for the information.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> If that's the case I will probably stop using my comp and wait until I can try the air bubble methods of removing it, Thanks for the information.


Please let me know if the instructions for removing air from the pump aren't able to resolve your issue. Being though that it appears that the noise goes away when the pump is running at full speed this indicates to me that it's air. Keep me posted.


----------



## JohnReid

Talking about pump noise woes, my Glacer still makes a buzzing noise at ANY RPM... it just gets louder the faster it goes. It can be heard outside the case (900D) at the lowest speed. Pretty faint, but it's there, and audible.

Honestly, I'm sick of dicking around with it, since I have to make a living using this rig, and have lost money with it being down for air-bubble rehab.

While the initial "water down the drain" noise that I got with it out of the box is thankfully gone, it sure as hell isn't silent.

I don't have the time to disassemble the loop, but I'm not a satisfied camper.

If I do any more WC in the future, I'm rolling my own, since at least I'll be in charge of final QC. Someone at CM dropped the ball by underfilling the damn res in the first place.

Hindsight is always 20/20... I got an AIO so that it would be a quick build, ready to throw into the trenches for work. Cue the trombone slide.









At least it _seems_ to do it's job... IIRC, I get around 28C average for my CPU.


----------



## agarabaghi

Man i dunno why so many people are having problems. I have the glacier 250l and ive refilled it like 4 times in the last few weeks and eventually i get it to dead silent again.

For me, the trick has been, fill reservoir under it is full. cap it... shake the case around a bit.... flip the pump on for a few seconds, then turn it off. Repeat the steps as needed... So far it was worked great!


----------



## JohnReid

Glad you got it fixed...

However... as a plug and play AIO that it's advertised to be (even if it CAN be expanded by the end user), the Glacer should NOT have to be refilled by the customer 4 times to get it to run as it should out of the box.

Yeah, you get jostling, temperature variances, etc. from shipping, so uncapping the fill port for a few minutes while the pump is on to evacuate air is acceptable if you _happen_ to have pump noise.

In my case, the reservoir wasn't even filled completely. That's not good quality control, and it's definitely turned me off to CM products in the future.

But, at the end of the day, the damn thing moves water, even if it's a bit noisy, and I can't afford to have the rig sit idle while I deal with an RMA, etc., so I decided to forge ahead and write it off as a lesson learned.


----------



## agarabaghi

Ahh I didn't explain right I have filled it 4 times by choice. I added a you block and a another radiator.

Next week I will be expanding the system to a 360rad + 200rad + 3 gpus + 1 CPU lol


----------



## JohnReid

Hah, yeah, that makes a difference!







If I decide to add my GPU to the loop, I'll hopefully get a quiet pump from my efforts. I'll stop complaining now, gotta get back to work.


----------



## Radmanhs

quick question about plugging everything in. did you guys plug the pump and the fans into the splitter, or did you separate the fans and pump? just wondering also since it seems like before whenever i lowered my pump rpm's, my temps doubled...


----------



## agarabaghi

Pump 2pin fan head to chasis fan plug (not cpu)... Pump sata to sata power.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Pump 2pin fan head to chasis fan plug (not cpu)... Pump sata to sata power.


That chasis fan plug is most likely not a PWM capable header. Please try using your CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue. Just because it's a 4-pin header doesn't mean that it's capable of PWM control.


----------



## agarabaghi

hmm maybe i am mistaken... either way i have it setup works just great =P maybe its in the cpu but i can regulate the speed of my pump and love the system


----------



## Scorpion667

Gah I am so hesitant to expand my loop.

I fully have all the gear ready and in my house...
1x Alphacool 280mm XT45 Radiator
1x AC Aquagrafix Copper Waterblock for 680 Lightning
6x Bitspower Shining Silver Barbs 3/8 ID
2x Swiftech 45 degree adapters
4x Swiftech 90 degree adapters
5 feet of Tygon Norprene 3/8ID x 5/8OD tubing
12x Swiftech Snake clamps for 5/8 OD
Dremel rotary tool for cutting into the roof for fillport access
1x silver coil
Fesser anti corrosion base

It just seems like it makes it really difficult to service the machine once everything is connected in a water loop. Also short of turning the machine upside down and opening the fillport, I'll have no other way to drain it.

I think I'll wait for a few months to make sure the machine is 100% stable before I start the project. Not planning on upgrading till first/second gen DDR4 anyway.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> quick question about plugging everything in. did you guys plug the pump and the fans into the splitter, or did you separate the fans and pump? just wondering also since it seems like before whenever i lowered my pump rpm's, my temps doubled...


I had my pump right into the CPU header when I was running my H220. The fans were plugged into a control that is built into my case, so different setups for different hardware.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Gah I am so hesitant to expand my loop.
> 
> I fully have all the gear ready and in my house...
> 1x Alphacool 280mm XT45 Radiator
> 1x AC Aquagrafix Copper Waterblock for 680 Lightning
> 6x Bitspower Shining Silver Barbs 3/8 ID
> 2x Swiftech 45 degree adapters
> 4x Swiftech 90 degree adapters
> 5 feet of Tygon Norprene 3/8ID x 5/8OD tubing
> 12x Swiftech Snake clamps for 5/8 OD
> Dremel rotary tool for cutting into the roof for fillport access
> 1x silver coil
> Fesser anti corrosion base
> 
> It just seems like it makes it really difficult to service the machine once everything is connected in a water loop. Also short of turning the machine upside down and opening the fillport, I'll have no other way to drain it.
> 
> I think I'll wait for a few months to make sure the machine is 100% stable before I start the project. Not planning on upgrading till first/second gen DDR4 anyway.


it does esp GPUs, and more so the more GPUs you have / have underwater ! but it is worth it, and it is not that hard, you can easily add a drainline ( not as easy in US as in UK / anywhere else, as the us just wont adapt the metric system ) with a tee however i usually use my lowest rad as it is below my mobo and what not, and just pop off the tube. i have even used the highest one and ran the pump ( i have clear tubing ) until it is empty then use MINIMAL pressure to move the rest of the water out of my system ( you can also blow it out, but that is the pressure i am talking about ) without issue i just unplug somewhere components wont get yet


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Gah I am so hesitant to expand my loop.
> 
> I fully have all the gear ready and in my house...
> 1x Alphacool 280mm XT45 Radiator
> 1x AC Aquagrafix Copper Waterblock for 680 Lightning
> 6x Bitspower Shining Silver Barbs 3/8 ID
> 2x Swiftech 45 degree adapters
> 4x Swiftech 90 degree adapters
> 5 feet of Tygon Norprene 3/8ID x 5/8OD tubing
> 12x Swiftech Snake clamps for 5/8 OD
> Dremel rotary tool for cutting into the roof for fillport access
> 1x silver coil
> Fesser anti corrosion base
> 
> It just seems like it makes it really difficult to service the machine once everything is connected in a water loop. Also short of turning the machine upside down and opening the fillport, I'll have no other way to drain it.
> 
> I think I'll wait for a few months to make sure the machine is 100% stable before I start the project. Not planning on upgrading till first/second gen DDR4 anyway.


Just make sure everything is stable and working fine (if you dont already know) then do it and enjoy







You have a lightning, picture 1400+ mhz and 40c







I run my 770 with 1.33v @ 1424mhz and my peak gaming on bf4 multiplayer is 41c with it being around 36-40c most of the time. Im using an ek universal vga block on mine since I tend to swap video cards often.

So I picked up some corsair sp120 HP pwm fans today for the h220 radiator. Wasnt really expecting any changes in temp but mostly for aesthetics and I was curious to see if there even would be a 1c drop in temps, well no temp drop on my gpu while gaming (cpu seems about the same as before) but at my normal 50% pump setting the fans are I think more quiet than the included helix, but at 100% they sure make a lot more noise (still not annoying loud though). Literally the loudest thing on my setup is the 180mm AP181 fans on low (edit: when everything is at my "silent" 50% setting, the 120mm stock or corsair are louder at 100% than the 180mm on low)


----------



## AsheyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately then this looks like it's an issue with your motherboard. I've never seen a PWM header behave this way before and I'm guessing that this didn't start happening until after your most recent BIOS update. I can't think of why else this would suddenly just start happening. Contact Asus customer support though. They should be able to help you resolve this issue or get the board replaced.


Iv spoken to Asus they tried to help me with loads of solutions at the end they gave up and assumed its the coolers fault, so i'm going to try it on another motherboard if the same thing happens again meaning the fans don't spin unless on full speed profile will Swiftech able to offer me support knowing i'v shorten the tubes or am I best just buying a new cooler?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## inmansfault

Well, I FINALLY have my 240L in and running. So far, so good. Idle temps flux between 33c and 34c, which isn't terribly different from the asetec based cooler I replaced. I ran prime95 for an hour and held steady at 49c, which is an improvement over my previous cooler, but not quite what I was hoping for. This is with my rad fans running full speed and the pump set to start ramping up at 45c. Any suggestions on how to bring these temps down? Here's some details on my setup:
FX8120 running at stock
Replaced stock 240L fans with 2x GT ap15 in pull config
CM Storm Trooper non windowed panel with 2x 120mm mounted to side panel pulling air in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Well, I FINALLY have my 240L in and running. So far, so good. Idle temps flux between 33c and 34c, which isn't terribly different from the asetec based cooler I replaced. I ran prime95 for an hour and held steady at 49c, which is an improvement over my previous cooler, but not quite what I was hoping for. This is with my rad fans running full speed and the pump set to start ramping up at 45c. Any suggestions on how to bring these temps down? Here's some details on my setup:
> FX8120 running at stock
> Replaced stock 240L fans with 2x GT ap15 in pull config
> CM Storm Trooper non windowed panel with 2x 120mm mounted to side panel pulling air in.


1
you know not to pay attention to idle temps on amd right? as they use a calculation that is not accurate until the cores are loaded.
the more loaded the more accurate
2
it sounds to me like you need to load up more before you assume it is topping at 49
you say "start ramping up at 45c" starts ramping to what %? try running it on full and see where you land


----------



## inmansfault

Run the pump at full speed you mean? And how long do you suggest I let it run?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsheyB*
> 
> Iv spoken to Asus they tried to help me with loads of solutions at the end they gave up and assumed its the coolers fault, so i'm going to try it on another motherboard if the same thing happens again meaning the fans don't spin unless on full speed profile will Swiftech able to offer me support knowing i'v shorten the tubes or am I best just buying a new cooler?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


If you find that another board does the same thing then PM me and I should be able to assist you in getting it resolved.


----------



## dallas1990

would the swiftech h220 pump be strong enough for 2 240mm rads 1 120mm rad and 2 780ti blocks?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> would the swiftech h220 pump be strong enough for 2 240mm rads 1 120mm rad and 2 780ti blocks?


According to their demo builds yes. I have mine going through the stock 240mm rad, 180mm rad, CPU, 1 ek universal GPU block and a swiftech microres. Even at 1800rpm I see plenty of water circulation.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> According to their demo builds yes. I have mine going through the stock 240mm rad, 180mm rad, CPU, 1 ek universal GPU block and a swiftech microres. Even at 1800rpm I see plenty of water circulation.


great saves me a few bucks, thank you


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> would the swiftech h220 pump be strong enough for 2 240mm rads 1 120mm rad and 2 780ti blocks?


i personally recommend running the gpu blocks in parallel as i get the coolest cpu temps doing this, but it has its downfalls, and the pump should be strong enough but to be honest i never have tried this with anything but a MCR35x at min.


----------



## Radmanhs

does anyone have the problem of not being able to control the fans?

I have mine connected to the splitter on my cha 1 header, it only runs at max and i cant figure out why


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> does anyone have the problem of not being able to control the fans?
> 
> I have mine connected to the splitter on my cha 1 header, it only runs at max and i cant figure out why


It sounds like you don't have the splitter connected to a PWM header. Try connecting the splitter to your CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> does anyone have the problem of not being able to control the fans?
> 
> I have mine connected to the splitter on my cha 1 header, it only runs at max and i cant figure out why
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like you don't have the splitter connected to a PWM header. Try connecting the splitter to your CPU fan header to see if that resolves your issue.
Click to expand...

hmmm... the problem is then that i have to plug my pump in somewhere else and the other stops arent pwm. should i just plug everything into the splitter?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> hmmm... the problem is then that i have to plug my pump in somewhere else and the other stops arent pwm. should i just plug everything into the splitter?


Splitter into CPU 1, pump on channel 1 of the splitter, fans on the splitter any place.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> hmmm... the problem is then that i have to plug my pump in somewhere else and the other stops arent pwm. should i just plug everything into the splitter?
> 
> 
> 
> Splitter into CPU 1, pump on channel 1 of the splitter, fans on the splitter any place.
Click to expand...

well... that woeks, but now the fans are running louder due to the higher rpm of the pump


----------



## EarlZ

Just wanted to chime in that so far the new pump bram sent me last October is still doing great and I hope it stays this way.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i personally recommend running the gpu blocks in parallel as i get the coolest cpu temps doing this, but it has its downfalls, and the pump should be strong enough but to be honest i never have tried this with anything but a MCR35x at min.


Keep in mind in parallel flow rates across the GPU are 1/2 system flow rate. I measured the H220 pump/block flow rate to max out around .62 with the h220 rad restriction added in there. The pump/block max was .77









Adding just an mcr320 rad (which isn't very restrictive) to the loop will reduce flows to .53 or so. As a guess a complex loop with multiple rads and gpu blocks is probably in the .4-.45 GPM range. Split that in half for parallel and now your gpu is only going to see .2-.25GPM. That's down in the air pockets don't move range and also thermal performance is falling off some. It's still only a couple of degrees between 1 and .5gpm but as you lower to .25 the losses increase.

The glacier should be higher spinning at 3500rpm but notice how thermal response drops off fairly rapidly at the .3gpm or so rate per Strens titan roundup on some blocks.










I would use caution in regard to parallel GPU when system flow rates are below 1GPM. It may be physically possible, you will start loosing some thermal performance as you drop down there. Bleeding is even more difficult. When testing pressure drops I noticed 1/2" ID tube won't even clear bubbles much slower than about .3GPM.

You could always add another pump in series too.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> well... that woeks, but now the fans are running louder due to the higher rpm of the pump


Well, now see if you can change something in the bios that controls what happens on the CPU1 header. Maybe you can run it at a lower % or RPM etc. If that doesn't work, then attach the fans someplace else, you just want to keep the pump from possibly taking too much voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

listen to martin he knows his stuff !


----------



## WhiteRice

Right now I run my cpu and vga(hd7970) on one 240mm rad. Will I be able to run this same setup if I upgrade to a 780?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Splitter into CPU 1, pump on channel 1 of the splitter, fans on the splitter any place.


If I have a Glacer (plug direct2header), should I just plug in my two fans (one in channel one and one in the other slots? My splitter still has2arrive...


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> If I have a Glacer (plug direct2header), should I just plug in my two fans (one in channel one and one in the other slots? My splitter still has2arrive...


By the build in your sig, we have the same mobo. I ran one of mine on the cpu_opt and the other on the cha_fan3 right next to it while I was waiting on my fan controller, and it worked just fine.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> By the build in your sig, we have the same mobo. I ran one of mine on the cpu_opt and the other on the cha_fan3 right next to it while I was waiting on my fan controller, and it worked just fine.


I would do it, but I don't know the link between Q-Fan Chassis temp and CPU temp (AI SUITE IS GARBAGE, hence why I uninstalled it).


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I would do it, but I don't know the link between Q-Fan Chassis temp and CPU temp (AI SUITE IS GARBAGE, hence why I uninstalled it).


How long do you have to wait for your splitter? I ran mine on the headers I mentioned for 4 days while waiting on my fan controller and didn't have any problems, and mine aren't even pwm fans.







The only thing I use AI for is to set a curve for my pump speed. All my fans are on a controller, and mega man turned me on to hwinfo64 for my other monitoring needs.


----------



## Theroty

Here are a few pics of my rig. I have a great camera but a real lack of knowledge on how to use it. So far the H220 is working great for me.


----------



## Seid Dark

Is there any plans for H320X? I realize that 360mm AIOs are niche products since not many mainstream cases currently support them but I plan to buy new NZXT H440 case. It has support for 360 rads so I feel it would be bit of a waste to go with measly 240


----------



## Phelan

So far a 360 is in talks but not planned as of yet, last I heard. A 280 will be coming out as well though which is within 10% or closer to a 360.


----------



## inmansfault

Got in my first gaming session since I installed my 240L. Played Arkham City @ 6048x1080 with all settings maxed for a couple hours, and my core temp never went over 22.3C with pump speed maintaining 2586rpm throughout. This seems pretty good to me! What do you guys think?



Screenshot for shnitz n giggle.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Got in my first gaming session since I installed my 240L. Played Arkham City @ 6048x1080 with all settings maxed for a couple hours, and my core temp never went over 22.3C with pump speed maintaining 2586rpm throughout. This seems pretty good to me! What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Screenshot for shnitz n giggle.


I think gaming never really creates dangerous temps, its all about if the pump running at that speed is too loud for you.


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I think gaming never really creates dangerous temps, its all about if the pump running at that speed is too loud for you.


The pump does make noise at that speed, but not much at all. If I kick it up to full speed (~3500rpm) , then it makes a good amount of noise. There's another machine and a fan running in this room, so it's no biggie. I was curious what kind of temps I would get gaming at that resolution. I did my prime95'ing last night.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> The pump does make noise at that speed, but not much at all. If I kick it up to full speed (~3500rpm) , then it makes a good amount of noise. There's another machine and a fan running in this room, so it's no biggie. I was curious what kind of temps I would get gaming at that resolution. I did my prime95'ing last night.


Once I test with Prime or IBT, I don't concern myself with temps, but that's just me. Any time I had issues with it getting too hot was when the pumps went bad.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inmansfault*
> 
> Got in my first gaming session since I installed my 240L. Played Arkham City @ 6048x1080 with all settings maxed for a couple hours, and my core temp never went over 22.3C with pump speed maintaining 2586rpm throughout. This seems pretty good to me! What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Screenshot for shnitz n giggle.


Honestly I find that extremely impressive ! On my h220 my temps when I'm just browsing the Internet jump up to 55 c at tops then back down to 30 . Idk if it's just my core temp and real temp reading the temperatures wrong or I messed up on installing the pump to the cpu . I used the than line method . Pea in the middle of the cpu and I still get these temp spikes . Any help ? Pump was running full speed to


----------



## Dudewitbow

my temps hover around 50 under practical heavy load. 22.3c is lower than my ambient system(around 30). so Im assuming your ambient temps(room) are much lower compared to what im at now.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Honestly I find that extremely impressive ! On my h220 my temps when I'm just browsing the Internet jump up to 55 c at tops then back down to 30 . Idk if it's just my core temp and real temp reading the temperatures wrong or I messed up on installing the pump to the cpu . I used the than line method . Pea in the middle of the cpu and I still get these temp spikes . Any help ? Pump was running full speed to


Which CPU you have? AMD does not have accurate idle temp sensors.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Which CPU you have? AMD does not have accurate idle temp sensors.


I'm using it 3770k stock speeds and ambient room temperature is around 21c


----------



## M3TAl

You can't compare AMD temps to Intel. My 8350 says 9C right now... room is 22.77C. AMD's sensor is not a true core sensor but more of an overall package temp based on some algorithm that doesn't get accurate until load, 30C+.

Not to mention when that package temp says something like 50C the actual core temp is most likely higher than that.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You can't compare AMD temps to Intel. My 8350 says 9C right now... room is 22.77C. AMD's sensor is not a true core sensor but more of an overall package temp based on some algorithm that doesn't get accurate until load, 30C+.
> 
> Not to mention when that package temp says something like 50C the actual core temp is most likely higher than that.


Not to mention different voltage will produce different temps.


----------



## jumpman

My unit's reservoir is bulged out. Is it normal?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> My unit's reservoir is bulged out. Is it normal?


Its fine.


----------



## inmansfault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> my temps hover around 50 under practical heavy load. 22.3c is lower than my ambient system(around 30). so Im assuming your ambient temps(room) are much lower compared to what im at now.


I keep the thermostat in my house at 74F. There's two machines in this room, but I have a fan running and the window cracked a bit. I don't have a thermometer in this room, but I suspect I will soon.









This is with prime95 running for about an hour and a half:


The curve I set for the pump speed with AI has really worked out well I think.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> My unit's reservoir is bulged out. Is it normal?


Did you just get it? I don't think it will cause an issue, but it looked like the coolant was frozen due to the temperatures when it was shipped.


----------



## Scorpion667

run the unit overnight outside the PC on top of paper towel. Make sure you connect at least one fan as the pump does slowly add a little heat to the loop. If the paper tower is dry in the morning, you're good.


----------



## jumpman

Yea it was fairly recent. Cold Chicago weather I guess. Didn't think coolant inside would freeze like that. It should be fine running it though?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Yea it was fairly recent. Cold Chicago weather I guess. Didn't think coolant inside would freeze like that. It should be fine running it though?


as long as there is no leaked it does not effect anything.

just gives you a LITTLE more room for coolant, only problem would be it makes the rad bigger which may hinder installs if your space is limited.

side note i moved my h220 system and it started making noise at full speed, luckily i moved it to put in a aquearo !~ love this thing, bought one and then bought the other 2 the guy on OCN was selling. it is epic !!!

anyway i can see why it sounds annoying !

besides that i love this unit ! fixed the ticking of the fans too, i will fix the h220 later, when i move it to my htpc for its final resting place ill probably just drain it and add a external res as it will be getting more rads as well then switch to distilled. !!!

again. if anyone wants a awesome fan controller ... aquaero 6 all the way pro is plently for most but xt is epic ! ( i prefer the xt for the look ) they are not making a aquaero 6 LT or i would recommend that. the 6 vs the 5 the 5 only has 1 pwm header where as the 6 all 4 are pwm !~!! and i have 9 fans running per channel as they did in the video ( they acctually had 40 20 per channel and 2x d5, all are without heatsink or water block !!!! also to note it can easily power a h220 pump ( or one of their new pumps ) directly from it as it has plenty of juice although i would not try it on the 5.


----------



## X-Alt

@GuywhoshouldbeontheVisheraboatbynow. I would go into BIOS and go to CPU Q-Fan control (PWM). Set the lower temp to the 20 and Max temp to 48, minimum "fan value" to 50 and max to 100, problem solved. It will make a custom curve and no moar AI Suite BSODs, boot issues and nonsensical warnings....


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> @GuywhoshouldbeontheVisheraboatbynow. I would go into BIOS and go to CPU Q-Fan control (PWM). Set the lower temp to the 20 and Max temp to 48, minimum "fan value" to 50 and max to 100, problem solved. It will make a custom curve and no moar AI Suite BSODs, boot issues and nonsensical warnings....


Just curious as to why you use 48 instead of 45 or 50? Just curious about your number selection.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Just curious as to why you use 48 instead of 45 or 50? Just curious about your number selection.


I dunno, I just like it to kick in right before 50, the 2C usualy makes the difference. I learned this with my Matrix 7970's fan curve. Set it to kick in to 63%@48C and it never goes above 62....

PS: Spltter will be here within 2 days, stupid Chicago weather :| Really want to go Dry Ice benching outside.... Might want to OC your son's 945 with a cheap Hyper 212 or something..


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I dunno, I just like it to kick in right before 50, the 2C usualy makes the difference. I learned this with my Matrix 7970's fan curve. Set it to kick in to 63%@48C and it never goes above 62....
> 
> PS: Spltter will be here within 2 days, stupid Chicago weather :| Really want to go Dry Ice benching outside.... Might want to OC your son's 945 with a cheap Hyper 212 or something..


I have had that chip at a very low OC of 3.2 (from 3.0) before. He is only 6 so right now the only game has been playing is Supreme Commander. I have taught him how to get upgrades going but he has yet to catch on to resource management and we are still working on that. I can tell already though that he plays offense more.

I have a 212+ and a NH-d14 in my desk that I could use. When he starts moving up to more demanding games I will push his system more and use one on it.


----------



## Opelee

Was wondering if anyone here know if the fan headers on the gigabyte z77-ud5h are voltage control or is it pwm?


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone here know if the fan headers on the gigabyte z77-ud5h are voltage control or is it pwm?


If you have 4 pin header so it's PWM. 3 pins headers are always voltage. Sometimes (in Rampage series not) in BIOS you can change PWM header to voltage type.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone here know if the fan headers on the gigabyte z77-ud5h are voltage control or is it pwm?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have 4 pin header so it's PWM. 3 pins headers are always voltage. Sometimes (in Rampage series not) in BIOS you can change PWM header to voltage type.
Click to expand...

not true
there are alot of pseudo 4 pin headers that are still voltage, 99% of the time only pwm header is cpu header


----------



## thebto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone here know if the fan headers on the gigabyte z77-ud5h are voltage control or is it pwm?


Here you go, straight from your MoBo's manual:


----------



## Opelee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> If you have 4 pin header so it's PWM. 3 pins headers are always voltage. Sometimes (in Rampage series not) in BIOS you can change PWM header to voltage type.


In the gigabyte bios, the fan control settings are in voltages, example, 0.50v, 0.75v, and so on and so on until 2v I believe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not true
> there are alot of pseudo 4 pin headers that are still voltage, 99% of the time only pwm header is cpu header


I'm guessing my CPU fan header is only pwm. I've checked around and there was one post where someone plug their fan in each system fan header, not the cpu, and got different fan rpm between SYS_FAN 1-4.


----------



## Opelee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> Here you go, straight from your MoBo's manual:


So Sys_fan 2/3 are PWM just like the CPU_fan also. I'm guessing Sys_fan 1 is _not_ PWM? I was asking this because I'm curious if it's better to plug the helix fans directly to the mobo or to the splitter connected to the CPU_fan header.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opelee*
> 
> So Sys_fan 2/3 are PWM just like the CPU_fan also. I'm guessing Sys_fan 1 is _not_ PWM? I was asking this because I'm curious if it's better to plug the helix fans directly to the mobo or to the splitter connected to the CPU_fan header.


Got love Gigabyte, Asus and the others MB manufacturers









Mate, as seems to be the current state of art in the industry your manual is dubious to say the least to which fan header is PWM. Look at cpu fan header. you have 12 v in the 2 pin and / speed control. Then at pin 4 you have speed control. What I suspect is that fan header can be used both in true PWM or voltage regulated and that setting should be made on the BIOS









Now, sysfan 2/3 looks like a true PWM???? WTH is going on here....I found that hard to believe but you can test I guess with the spliter that comes with the h220. If you plug the fan on the spliter and this to the sysfan 2/3 if the fan is able to vary its rpm then it is a PWM fan header since the 12 v will be coming from the spliter and only the PWM signal will be coming from the MB header.

Hope that helps


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Got love Gigabyte, Asus and the others MB manufacturers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mate, as seems to be the current state of art in the industry your manual is dubious to say the least to which fan header is PWM. Look at cpu fan header. you have 12 v in the 2 pin and / speed control. Then at pin 4 you have speed control. What I suspect is that fan header can be used both in true PWM or voltage regulated and that setting should be made on the BIOS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, sysfan 2/3 looks like a true PWM???? *WTH is going on here....I found that hard to believe but you can test I guess with the spliter that comes with the h220. If you plug the fan on the spliter and this to the sysfan 2/3 if the fan is able to vary its rpm then it is a PWM fan header since the 12 v will be coming from the spliter and only the PWM signal will be coming from the MB header.*
> 
> Hope that helps


Do this. It is so hard to tell as all manuals seem to say different things and even then, they cannot be trusted as Asus outright *LIES* in their manuals about pwm capabilities.


----------



## mm67

Cpu_fan and sys_fan2 & 3 are PWM only, sys_fan1 is voltage only and sys_fan4 always runs at full speed. Stupid thing is that all controllable sys_fan headers only have one common speed control


----------



## v1ral

Great builds!!!!
I have a question, will the 240l have enough pump power for the mvif and expansion later down the line..
Ill be adding a 360 rad and maybe a gpu block.
Thanks !!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Great builds!!!!
> I have a question, will the 240l have enough pump power for the mvif and expansion later down the line..
> Ill be adding a 360 rad and maybe a gpu block.
> Thanks !!


Mvif? Its a good pump for sure. It can handle quiet a bit of expansion though. Swiftech has demo'd the h220 (with 500rpm less than the 240L) with multiple GPUs and radiators added to the loop.

I personally have my h220 240mm rad, a 180mm rad, and an ek universal GPU block in my loop with no issues.


----------



## smithydan

Yes it will


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Mvif? Its a good pump for sure. It can handle quiet a bit of expansion though. Swiftech has demo'd the h220 (with 500rpm less than the 240L) with multiple GPUs and radiators added to the loop.
> 
> I personally have my h220 240mm rad, a 180mm rad, and an ek universal GPU block in my loop with no issues.


Maximus iv formula.
I saw a few pages back that had a full blown set up. I'll try and link it, I wonder how long it lasted him.

Post #6610 *using phone sorry for lack of hyperlinks


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi guys, my 2nd h220 just died today =( gone through 2 watercoolers now, but fortuantely NCIX is willing to RMA it for me, I have a question, Is the reason for my pumps dying on me due to the fact that it is being shipped in -30 Weather?


----------



## Conissah

Just bought an H220 from NCIX. I'm ecstatic cause I live in the US and this is the only AIO I wanted, how lucky am I? Can't wait for it to arrive at my door!


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conissah*
> 
> Just bought an H220 from NCIX. I'm ecstatic cause I live in the US and this is the only AIO I wanted, how lucky am I? Can't wait for it to arrive at my door!


Yeah this water cooler is fantastic when it works . You should check out the h220x that one looks real nice


----------



## Conissah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Yeah this water cooler is fantastic when it works . You should check out the h220x that one looks real nice


What do you mean "when it works?" Are they notorious for failure?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conissah*
> 
> What do you mean "when it works?" Are they notorious for failure?


I wouldn't want to say that, because a lot of people never had problems with it. So a while back during Christmas i bought one and it was making some ticking noise so I returned it and NCIX shipped me another one. This one too made a really loud ticking noise but if I increase the Rpm to 2600 plus it would go away. Then recently It just died on me. I was playing some Battlefield 4 then boom, My cpu just shut off, So i tried turning it on again and i noticed my Fans were still running but within a good 20 seconds my cpu shut off. So I checked the pump and noticed it just gave out on me. Back to my stock cooler and waiting for another one to be shipped, my guess is that the cold weather may or not be affecting the pump when it is in transit. =(


----------



## Thrasher1016

Coolermaster's version, the 240L, FTW...

Flawless for 2+ months now!

Thanks - T


----------



## smithydan

Question guys, out of the two I realise that the Glacer is the most recommended but my question is how is CM's response to dealing with and rectifying problems encountered?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Question guys, out of the two I realise that the Glacer is the most recommended but my question is how is CM's response to dealing with and rectifying problems encountered?


I haven't had any issues with mine but swiftech seems to be really on top of their customer care and support and is a big reason I went swiftech over cooler master. I wanted the extra 500rpm since I knew I was going to put my GPU in the loop but the pump does great gaming even at 2000rpm.


----------



## MojoW

I wanna expand my H320 soon and get a new case, i'm looking at the corsair carbide air 540.
Will this cause problems with h320 radiator vertical at the front? as i've read it's better to mount it horizontal.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> I wanna expand my H320 soon and get a new case, i'm looking at the corsair carbide air 540.
> Will this cause problems with h320 radiator vertical at the front? as i've read it's better to mount it horizontal.


You can mount the radiator vertically. What you need to do though is mount it with the reservoir at the highest point. This might mean that you'll need to get longer tubing to reach your pump because the tubing will be at the bottom of the radiator.


----------



## MojoW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can mount the radiator vertically. What you need to do though is mount it with the reservoir at the highest point. This might mean that you'll need to get longer tubing to reach your pump because the tubing will be at the bottom of the radiator.


Thnx, no problem because i'm getting all new tubing so it all matches.


----------



## mcnumpty23

had my h320 vertical in the front of my case for 5 or 6 months now probably

absolutely no issues









no issue with the tube length reaching either









installed in coolermaster storm trooper


----------



## John Freeman

best way to make the pump stop gurgling air bubbles? i just added a gpu and this has been going on for a while


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> best way to make the pump stop gurgling air bubbles? i just added a gpu and this has been going on for a while


If you can't get it to quiet down I actually have a trick that can help. It will require you to drain it and refill it though. What you'll have to do is pour a little coolant into the barbs on either side of the pump before reconnecting the tubing. Then start filling the radiator the way you normally would and run the pump. By pouring a little coolant into each of the barbs it prevents the pump from being able to suck air into it. Let me know if this resolves your issue.


----------



## 66racer

Hey guys,

What fan controllers are you guys using? I picked up some corsair sp120 performance pwm fans and was looking for pwm fan controllers but seems only zalman has an actual pwm controller?

Thinking I may need to return the pwm version and get the regular one, leave the pump controlled by the Asus mono, and just use a standard fan controller for the fans. I mostly want to control the pump seperatly from my fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> best way to make the pump stop gurgling air bubbles? i just added a gpu and this has been going on for a while


I'm wondering if your fluid level is a bit low and allowing air to recirculate back into the loop?


----------



## Mega Man

aquaero 6

you get FOUR pwm channels that can be piggiebacked !

aq5 you only get one pwm


----------



## crabula

I'm looking for some fan controller or way to allow me to control the 3 fans on my H320 separately to the pump. Budget <$100.

From reading this: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx,

It seems the "Zalman ZM-MFC3" might do it, but:
Quote:


> - Fan RPM monitoring & control (3 x voltage, 1 x PWM).


Could you run 3 fans on the one pwm channel somehow?

Thanks.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> aquaero 6
> 
> you get FOUR pwm channels that can be piggiebacked !
> 
> aq5 you only get one pwm


Yeah think I saw you mention that one...deffinetly worth drooling over. Think its more than I need, but its making me think of other stuff like liquid temp, gpu vrm temp ([email protected]), etc so maybe I will wait and just get that one. I was more looking at $100 max like the other dude mentioned.


----------



## sdmf74

I just use one of these to control my 3 PWM intake fans:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=34873
And then I use the pwm splitter that came with my H220 for my 4 rad fans. It's a cheaper alternative to a controller and works great, as long as you have 2 pwm motherboard connectors. ie cpu & cpu-opt.


----------



## crabula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> works great, as long as you have 2 pwm motherboard connectors. ie cpu & cpu-opt.


AFAIK on my mobo (ASUS Z87-PLUS) the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT both run at the same % as set in BIOS for CPU_FAN, so if I've got this right, that 3-way splitter on CPU_OPT would still keep fans at same speed as the pump.


----------



## gdubc

You could get voltage controlled fans and run off a different mobo header as a cheaper alternative.


----------



## MadGoat

Swiftech* pwm controller FTW... Using the one that came with my h220. On CPU header, works great.


----------



## 66racer

Yeah think I may just run my corsair sp120 pwm fans as voltage controlled rather than pwm and keep the h220 pump on the CPU fan header with the splitter.

On Asus motherboards; at least mine the CPU and opt run at the same speed.


----------



## fatlardo

So if I wanna get this and also expand to 2 gpus gtx 780s, what other items do I need to buy? Links is appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatlardo*
> 
> So if I wanna get this and also expand to 2 gpus gtx 780s, what other items do I need to buy? Links is appreciated. Thank you.


Depends on what GTX 780s you're asking about. So long as they use the reference PCB you can use our own Komodo series GTX 780 full-cover water blocks. You'll also need 3/8 by 5/8 fittings, extra tubing, and probably extra coolant as well. Being that these are all items that can be the user's choice you'll have to decide which ones you want depending on your individual tastes.


----------



## fatlardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Depends on what GTX 780s you're asking about. So long as they use the reference PCB you can use our own Komodo series GTX 780 full-cover water blocks. You'll also need 3/8 by 5/8 fittings, extra tubing, and probably extra coolant as well. Being that these are all items that can be the user's choice you'll have to decide which ones you want depending on your individual tastes.


It will be for Gtx 780 Classifieds. Can you link if needed, the extra radiators and what size. I have a Corsair 500R btw.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatlardo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Depends on what GTX 780s you're asking about. So long as they use the reference PCB you can use our own Komodo series GTX 780 full-cover water blocks. You'll also need 3/8 by 5/8 fittings, extra tubing, and probably extra coolant as well. Being that these are all items that can be the user's choice you'll have to decide which ones you want depending on your individual tastes.
> 
> 
> 
> It will be for Gtx 780 Classifieds. Can you link if needed, the extra radiators and what size. I have a Corsair 500R btw.
Click to expand...

google is your friend
personal choice is needed !


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Just bought 2 foot of Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing. Hoping to get it this week. @BramSLI1 A little while back I posted here about the air bubble problems I was having. I had a bunch of plasticizer in the coolant so I think the pump needs to be disassembled and cleaned. I understand a Swiftech Employee such as yourself needs to oversee the dis-assembly process so it doesn't void the warranty. I'm looking to do this when I get the tubing this week.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Just bought 2 foot of Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing. Hoping to get it this week. @BramSLI1 A little while back I posted here about the air bubble problems I was having. I had a bunch of plasticizer in the coolant so I think the pump needs to be disassembled and cleaned. I understand a Swiftech Employee such as yourself needs to oversee the dis-assembly process so it doesn't void the warranty. I'm looking to do this when I get the tubing this week.


Just PM me when you're going to be available to do this so I can walk you through it.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just PM me when you're going to be available to do this so I can walk you through it.


Thanks, I have a pretty good idea how to do it already. I watched Lord Nikkon's video on disassembling it.


----------



## companyZ

good day, Swiftech H320 180° ?
http://i-fotki.info/16/3e2798cb1ec66fd9ab8e7c4fb1736c6f5767c8174156213.jpg.html


----------



## sdmf74

I'm curious, why no Komodo blocks for Classified, Classified TI or KingPin Edition???


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I'm curious, why no Komodo blocks for Classified, Classified TI or KingPin Edition???


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21241/ex-vga-41/EVGA_GeForce_GTX_780_Classified_Hydro_Copper_Waterblock_400-CU-G780-B2.html?tl=g30c311s1996

Not sure why only EVGA sell it but it is the komodo block. Not sure either about classified Ti and Kingin.


----------



## Nightingale

I want to add my H220 to a new custom loop i purchased off someone. Thing is I'm not sure if the pump( DD-CPX-Pro 12V/EK DCP 4.0 237 GPH) in the custom loop might overwhelm the tiny h220 pump.

I made a thread asking for advice on my planned H220+custom loop

http://www.overclock.net/t/1464495/h220-custom-water-loop-will-my-setup-work


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I want to add my H220 to a new custom loop i purchased off someone. Thing is I'm not sure if the pump( DD-CPX-Pro 12V/EK DCP 4.0 237 GPH) in the custom loop might overwhelm the tiny h220 pump.
> 
> I made a thread asking for advice on my planned H220+custom loop
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1464495/h220-custom-water-loop-will-my-setup-work


What will likely occur is the H220 pump will just support the flow from the other one. I don't think it will be overwhelmed by it at all.


----------



## Nightingale

Great, I mean redundancy is import to me. Always good to have a backup pump.


----------



## Azuredragon1

any plans for a 280mm rad?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21241/ex-vga-41/EVGA_GeForce_GTX_780_Classified_Hydro_Copper_Waterblock_400-CU-G780-B2.html?tl=g30c311s1996
> 
> Not sure why only EVGA sell it but it is the komodo block. Not sure either about classified Ti and Kingin.


Yeah I'm familiar with the hydrocopper but I dont think its a komodo. Anyway I was hoping BramSLI1 would comment on this. A brand new Komodo block for the 780Classy, Classy ti and Kingpin that focuses more on VRM cooling would be ideal.

I'm in the process of buying parts to expand my H220 and havent even thought about adding a 2nd pump. (didnt know it was possible). Only using the H220 pump is the reason I
am not buying a reservoir. This could make me rethink my loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah I'm familiar with the hydrocopper but I dont think its a komodo. Anyway I was hoping BramSLI1 would comment on this. A brand new Komodo block for the 780Classy, Classy ti and Kingpin that focuses more on VRM cooling would be ideal.
> 
> I'm in the process of buying parts to expand my H220 and havent even thought about adding a 2nd pump. (didnt know it was possible). Only using the H220 pump is the reason I
> am not buying a reservoir. This could make me rethink my loop.


I don't think EVGA has approached us to produce Hydro Copper blocks for those cards yet. It could be something that they're planning though. I just haven't heard anything about it as of yet.

I was wrong about that. EVGA already have a Classified water block for these cards and the Classified water block looks like it's compatible with the Kingpin as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21241/ex-vga-41/EVGA_GeForce_GTX_780_Classified_Hydro_Copper_Waterblock_400-CU-G780-B2.html?tl=g30c311s1996
> 
> Not sure why only EVGA sell it but it is the komodo block. Not sure either about classified Ti and Kingin.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm familiar with the hydrocopper but I dont think its a komodo. Anyway I was hoping BramSLI1 would comment on this. A brand new Komodo block for the 780Classy, Classy ti and Kingpin that focuses more on VRM cooling would be ideal.
> 
> I'm in the process of buying parts to expand my H220 and havent even thought about adding a 2nd pump. (didnt know it was possible). Only using the H220 pump is the reason I
> am not buying a reservoir. This could make me rethink my loop.
Click to expand...

swiftech makes all of evgas blocks, that said i think there are minor differences with komodo vs evgas blocks


----------



## sdmf74

Thanx guys for the responses, Hey BramSLI1 since I have your attention can you tell me which is the IN/OUT of my Pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Thanx guys for the responses, Hey BramSLI1 since I have your attention can you tell me which is the IN/OUT of my Pump?


It is marked on the side of the block/pump as "in" Take a look on the side of the block close to the fitting. komodo=hydocopper they are made by swiftech that's why I point that out to you.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is marked on the side of the block/pump as "in" Take a look on the side of the block close to the fitting. komodo=hydocopper they are made by swiftech that's why I point that out to you.


I realize It's on the side of the pump It's just kinda hard to get to and wanna plan out my Loop, fittings and all ahead of time. Just thought It would be easier for someone that knows to look at the picture and say if the outlet is on the left or the right


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> left or the right


In yourcells picture the pump is positioned so, that the fittings are at the top, then the left one is IN and the right one is OUT.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> In yourcells picture the pump is positioned so, that the fittings are at the top, then the left one is IN and the right one is OUT.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Thanx guys for the responses, Hey BramSLI1 since I have your attention can you tell me which is the IN/OUT of my Pump?


In is on the left of your picture, its

This is correct, in is to the left of the wires going into the pump when looking at the top.


----------



## sdmf74

Thanx guys, that's the answer I was looking for rep+ for both of you


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Is there anyway to tell if your pump is starting to fail, other than rising temps? I'm getting some "CPU fan errors" messages from my Asus board. However temps are maintaining their usual range.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> Is there anyway to tell if your pump is starting to fail, other than rising temps? I'm getting some "CPU fan errors" messages from my Asus board. However temps are maintaining their usual range.


Use HWinfo64 to record your system status. It gave you maximum, minimum, average and current rpm of the pump (assuming is correctly connected to your board cpu_fan header using the split PWM). Asus software cpu fan errors are just crap from the software. To be sure if something odd is going on use hwinfo64. If the minimum rpm show up like zero in that then you can start to worry about it. With asus cpu fan error nah....


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> Is there anyway to tell if your pump is starting to fail, other than rising temps? I'm getting some "CPU fan errors" messages from my Asus board. However temps are maintaining their usual range.


I have had those errors even with an antec kuhler 920, think if its not spinning above the min rpm range by a certain time, it throws the warning. Is it occuring during post or in the operating system?

If in the operating system, and you have AI suite installed; which I think you need to in order to get that message, run test/learn on the cpu pwm fan (h220 pump) which _may_ help it know what its range should be.


----------



## testify

It's been two good months since this H320 began to cool this X79 board's 4820K, I have kept it stock without any modifications so far. The 'fish tank pump' noise began just a week ago, today I got fed up with the sound and thus I ventured into the Pump itself for answers.

Upon separating the cold plate itself, i was surprised by how much residue there was on the sink!






I also saw quite a bit of build up within the tubing, I took a small sample from the Outlet side of the pump. The white buildup is easily removed with a brush or by a swab



Is this a Plasticizer problem? The noise is not completely gone, and I believe it is returning already!


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Use HWinfo64 to record your system status. It gave you maximum, minimum, average and current rpm of the pump (assuming is correctly connected to your board cpu_fan header using the split PWM). Asus software cpu fan errors are just crap from the software. To be sure if something odd is going on use hwinfo64. If the minimum rpm show up like zero in that then you can start to worry about it. With asus cpu fan error nah....


I'll go ahead and run that and when I see the error again. I should be correctly connected to the CPU_fan header since I've been running that way for 7 months error free.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I have had those errors even with an antec kuhler 920, think if its not spinning above the min rpm range by a certain time, it throws the warning. Is it occuring during post or in the operating system?
> 
> If in the operating system, and you have AI suite installed; which I think you need to in order to get that message, run test/learn on the cpu pwm fan (h220 pump) which _may_ help it know what its range should be.


I had one warning during post. The rest are intermittent but come in bunches during operation. I do have the AI Suite installed, not sure what you mean by "run test/learn on the cpu pwm fan"


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testify*
> 
> It's been two good months since this H320 began to cool this X79 board's 4820K, I have kept it stock without any modifications so far. The 'fish tank pump' noise began just a week ago, today I got fed up with the sound and thus I ventured into the Pump itself for answers.
> 
> Upon separating the cold plate itself, i was surprised by how much residue there was on the sink!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also saw quite a bit of build up within the tubing, I took a small sample from the Outlet side of the pump. The white buildup is easily removed with a brush or by a swab
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a Plasticizer problem? The noise is not completely gone, and I believe it is returning already!


If the noise is returning I suspect you haven't cleaned the radiator thoroughly so the plasticizer is building up in the pump again.


----------



## testify

My concerns are based on that this is a AIO unit, while capable of being expanded. Is the tubing used in this system a liability and problem? Are owners of the H220/H320 expected to disassemble and clean out the block and Radiator/Res every now and then?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testify*
> 
> My concerns are based on that this is a AIO unit, while capable of being expanded. Is the tubing used in this system a liability and problem? Are owners of the H220/H320 expected to disassemble and clean out the block and Radiator/Res every now and then?


This is the way it's suppose to be, directly from swiftech's website.
SOURCE
Quote:


> As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H220 CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its 3 year warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Right now I run my cpu and vga(hd7970) on one 240mm rad. Will I be able to run this same setup if I upgrade to a 780?


Still looking for suggestions.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Still looking for suggestions.


It all depends on how much the relationship between noise/fan/temp suits you. I don´t think the 780 is that much hot that the 7970 so bottom line is yes you probably will be able to run just fine. The usual rule of thumb is 1x 120 mm per block with one to spare as you OC components. So, without a heavy oc in the cpu or vga a 240 mm rad should be enough but if you plan on heavy oc you might consider expanding another 120, 140 or even a 240/280 mm rad if your case is able to hold it.

hope it helps


----------



## agarabaghi

Just wanted to say im running a Glacier 240m pump / cpu combo + 2x 360mm XSPC rads + 3 R9 290 EKWB FC blocks....

Getting 62-65* on the 3 290 at 100 mining!


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Roughly how much coolant does the H220 require? I'll be adding an EK block to my GTX 770 also. Trying to figure out how much I need. Is it better to use distilled water in the H220?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Roughly how much coolant does the H220 require? I'll be adding an EK block to my GTX 770 also. Trying to figure out how much I need. Is it better to use distilled water in the H220?


When I added an XSPC Titan block to my H220, the refill was either just shy of or just over one 16oz bottle of Hydrx 2. Be safe and get two bottles, it is inexpensive enough.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> When I added an XSPC Titan block to my H220, the refill was either just shy of or just over one 16oz bottle of Hydrx 2. Be safe and get two bottles, it is inexpensive enough.


I was thinking of reusing what was in it already and I guess just getting another bottle.


----------



## 66racer

Hey guys,

Are there any videos on taking the pump apart? I'm gonna have some free time today and am thinking of doing it to make sure the copper fins are clean on the block. Would love it if the pump got a little bit more quiet.

Not sure if it was mentioned but looks like microcenter started to carry the cm glacier 240L. Hope to see Fry's and others follow.


----------



## Phelan

I'd just call Swiftech and Bryan can walk you through it. It's very easy and straight-forward.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Are there any videos on taking the pump apart? I'm gonna have some free time today and am thinking of doing it to make sure the copper fins are clean on the block. Would love it if the pump got a little bit more quiet.
> 
> Not sure if it was mentioned but looks like microcenter started to carry the cm glacier 240L. Hope to see Fry's and others follow.


Please PM me so that I can walk you through it.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

I do not knowif this is my H220s doing or my mobo, but sometimes my cpu idle temp becomes 70+. Ithappens randomly, more often than not making my pc unsafe to use. It almost seems as if its not flowing water through it. Any ideas?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> I do not knowif this is my H220s doing or my mobo, but sometimes my cpu idle temp becomes 70+. Ithappens randomly, more often than not making my pc unsafe to use. It almost seems as if its not flowing water through it. Any ideas?


Is there any unusual noises coming from your pump? These temperature spikes could simply indicate that you have some air bubbles that are getting pulled into the pump and noise would confirm that.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hello Friends, I have questions regarding monitoring cpu temps, With Real Temp and Core Temp it shows my temps idle at 23 C and on prime 95 it goes to 64. With the Asus suite cpu monitor it shows it at 43. Which one is correctly showing my cpu temps ? My ambient room temperature is 23 C


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hello Friends, I have questions regarding monitoring cpu temps, With Real Temp and Core Temp it shows my temps idle at 23 C and on prime 95 it goes to 64. With the Asus suite cpu monitor it shows it at 43. Which one is correctly showing my cpu temps ? My ambient room temperature is 23 C


Don't trust asus crap.... Realtemp and coretemp are fine and you could try hwinfo64.


----------



## dansi

any idea when the 140mm version shown at ces2014 is coming?
will it perform close to 240mm asetek?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> any idea when the 140mm version shown at ces2014 is coming?
> will it perform close to 240mm asetek?


Most likely in April . My dad and uncle pre-ordered the h220x at ncix


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hello Friends, I have questions regarding monitoring cpu temps, With Real Temp and Core Temp it shows my temps idle at 23 C and on prime 95 it goes to 64. With the Asus suite cpu monitor it shows it at 43. Which one is correctly showing my cpu temps ? My ambient room temperature is 23 C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't trust asus crap.... Realtemp and coretemp are fine and you could try hwinfo64.


The asus sensor is giving you the temp at the cpu socket not the cpu itself, its not the best way to monitor temps. Use coretemp or whichever other program you like best.

I just dont see how your idle temp is exactly what ambient is, Im guessing your ambient gauge is off or you have an amd....but thought you had intel so likely your room gauge is off.


----------



## nuklearwax

So my H220 finally came in and I'm figuring out how I'm going to install it in my ole Antec 1200. Think I have a game plan of mounting it outside on the back of the case. My question is I have two Gentle Typhoon AP-15s that I was using on the Corsair H60 that I was using before. Should I use the AP-15s on the H220 or just stick to the stock fans?


----------



## Mega Man

either or


----------



## DarthElvis

Potential problem with AM3+ mount. Swiftech says to use the stock AMD backplate. Thats great, I wish more companies would do that. However, mines gone. I'm replacing a totally inadequate Kuhler 920, and all I've got is the backplate from that. That and another one from an H50 before that. The one that came with my mobo is loooong gone. The threads for Swiftech's AMD mounting screws are wrong for what I have, but the threads for the Intel fit. Will I be able to use those? There is some very slight size differences as far as length and where the little washer fits on. Will I be able to tighten the block enough? Will it tighten too much? Anyone run into this problem?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthElvis*
> 
> Potential problem with AM3+ mount. Swiftech says to use the stock AMD backplate. Thats great, I wish more companies would do that. However, mines gone. I'm replacing a totally inadequate Kuhler 920, and all I've got is the backplate from that. That and another one from an H50 before that. The one that came with my mobo is loooong gone. The threads for Swiftech's AMD mounting screws are wrong for what I have, but the threads for the Intel fit. Will I be able to use those? There is some very slight size differences as far as length and where the little washer fits on. Will I be able to tighten the block enough? Will it tighten too much? Anyone run into this problem?


Those Intel screws will most likely not give you the proper contact. I can't remember if it's too much or too little, but either way they won't work properly. What you will need to do is find someone to sell you one they aren't using, or try to find one on ebay or something. I had the same issue a while back when I changed out my CPU water block. I had to find one on ebay.


----------



## Mega Man

as low as 3.99 ( am2 am3 ect all the same )

https://www.google.com/search?q=amd+backplate&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-beta&channel=sb#channel=sb&q=amd++am3%2B+backplate&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&tbm=shop


----------



## DarthElvis

Wow, a response from a Swiftech hardware rep on a Saturday night. Didn't see that one coming. Outstanding. Thanks for the help, I guess I'll have to go on a quest tomorrow morning, not into waiting for shipping from e-bay. BF4 puts my temps over 68c on this ****ty 920 (used to be passable, but getting worse). Can't play, or do video encoding until I get my cooling sorted. Not into rolling back my OC either, that just wouldn't be right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ( *am2* am3 ect all the same )


That's very good to know, didn't think of that. You may have made my day, +rep


----------



## Mega Man

i stealth edited i forgot to include the links


----------



## peperonni

Hello friends,
I am a new owner of a swiftech h220








I want to install it on my lian li pc-v750WX case. The problem is I cant install it on te top fans because they are of 140mm, and also there is not enoguh place for the radiator+fan with the motherboad, supposing it can be install there with adaptators.
I have think to place it in the 2x120mm intake fan in the front, but the tubes are too shot, and there is not enough gap between the chasis and the hdd cage, so i have ti put the cage away.
Do you have any solution for using the h220 in this case, so i dont have to return it? Perhaps by putting in the back of the hdd cage, but how?
Thank you very much!


----------



## michael-ocn

> lian li pc-v750WX

That case doesn't look very water cooling friendly. If removing the HDD cage is an option, you could get longer tubes. Otherwise looks like you're going to have to mod something to make it work, either up top or behind the drive cage. Not sure I'd be willing to drill holes thru the aluminum top of that case. Mounting it behind the HDD cage does look like a plausibility?

Also, um... could have done some research before buying









edit: Another option is to mount rad externally on the back of the case using something like an MCB-120 Radbox.


----------



## nuklearwax

So finally got this sucker mounted. I had to mount the pump sideways is this ok? Seems to be working very well, nice acceptable temps on this 9370 now. I'm very satisfied so far.


----------



## Turt1e

I'm scared to install my new H220 since it leaked last time. Would leak testing it outside the case for a few days be a good idea?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I'm scared to install my new H220 since it leaked last time. Would leak testing it outside the case for a few days be a good idea?


If it gives you peace of mind. I never leak tested mine when I had it.


----------



## DarthElvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ( am2 am3 ect all the same )


And the AM2 plate from an old Abit board I had in my "spare parts"(read as obsolete part hoarding) spot did the trick. Good stuff.


----------



## peperonni

I made a search before, and someone says me that it was possible to adapt it to the top... but no :'(
In the back isn´t an option, I don´t have space (the case is on the table), and in winter the hot air of the rad goes behind the table too...
In the top is an option with brackets to adapt it perhaps... but i have to put out the fan, horrible!!
I think that the best opction is put behind the hdd cage, if i found any mount that is compatible with both rad and cage.
Thank you michael!


----------



## Mega Man

glad you got it taken care of, besides how awesome it is for the user, i wonder how much monies amd saves using the same mount ?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

@BramSLI1

Got my H220 all back together. So far so good. There were air bubble noises at first but they seem to be going away. As of right now I don't hear any. Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks again for your help disassembling the pump Bram









Here's a pic with the new tubing. I should of cut the tubing a little shorter. I may do that in the future. That blue fan is suppose to be UV along with the cathodes. Not sure why this tubing isn't glowing.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Got my H220 all back together. So far so good. There were air bubble noises at first but they seem to be going away. As of right now I don't hear any. Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks again for your help disassembling the pump Bram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic with the new tubing. I should of cut the tubing a little shorter. I may do that in the future. That blue fan is suppose to be UV along with the cathodes. Not sure why this tubing isn't glowing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Was refilling the loop a pain? I'll be doing installation and tubing replacement this weekend.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice. Was refilling the loop a pain? I'll be doing installation and tubing replacement this weekend.


It's pretty easy. It's recommended to fill the barbs on the pump up first with the copper plate facing upwards. Less chance of getting air bubbles.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> It's pretty easy. It's recommended to fill the barbs on the pump up first with the copper plate facing upwards. Less chance of getting air bubbles.


I see. I just remembered when I watched the youtube video on adding a video card to the loop, the guy said it's best to leave one of the tubes (I forget which one) attached to the pump and rad. I thought that would be ridiculous looking if you wanted to replace all the tubing with a different color other than black. That's what I plan on doing. I think he said it would be difficult, but not impossible, to bleed all the air out.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice. Was refilling the loop a pain? I'll be doing installation and tubing replacement this weekend.


Its not bad. I added a gpu and another radiator and that was a little of a pain because it took about an hour to get all the air out. Other than that no issues though and great temps.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Its not bad. I added a gpu and another radiator and that was a little of a pain because it took about an hour to get all the air out. Other than that no issues though and great temps.


Good to know. These are the parts I got in the mail yesterday:
Swiftech H220
Swiftech Hydrx PM 2 coolant
Monsoon 90° Rotary LightPort fittings (x2) matte black
Monsoon 3/8" x 5/8" compression fittings (x2) matte black
Monsoon Red LED Plugs (x2)
Monsoon Silver Bullet G1/4 plug (x1)
Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in Bloodshed Red

I already have an EK GTX 770 water block and backplate waiting to be installed.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Good to know. These are the parts I got in the mail yesterday:
> Swiftech H220
> Swiftech Hydrx PM 2 coolant
> Monsoon 90° Rotary LightPort fittings (x2) matte black
> Monsoon 3/8" x 5/8" compression fittings (x2) matte black
> Monsoon Red LED Plugs (x2)
> Monsoon Silver Bullet G1/4 plug (x1)
> Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in Bloodshed Red
> 
> I already have an EK GTX 770 water block and backplate waiting to be installed.


Ah sounds nice! Yeah dude on my over volt 770 (1.33v) I peak 41c gaming on bf4. That's with a 180mm added too but was wondering what temps would be with just a 240mm for fun. Almost pulled the 180mm out of the loop out boredom lol then decided against it.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Ah sounds nice! Yeah dude on my over volt 770 (1.33v) I peak 41c gaming on bf4. That's with a 180mm added too but was wondering what temps would be with just a 240mm for fun. Almost pulled the 180mm out of the loop out boredom lol then decided against it.


I don't have that kind of room. I'm cramming all that in an NCase M1. Hope I get good temps. Anything is better than the air cooling I'm doing now.


----------



## Agoniizing

Finally expanded my H220


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I don't have that kind of room. I'm cramming all that in an NCase M1. Hope I get good temps. Anything is better than the air cooling I'm doing now.


Oh I remember this case when it was getting funded. Sick design. I was tempted to go itx a while ago but think I will stick with matx a bit longer. Yeah I'm sure your temps will be much better than air as well


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know when the Swiftech H220x will be released on the market. Looks dammmmm fine....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know when the Swiftech H220x will be released on the market. Looks dammmmm fine....


It should be available at the end of March or early April at the latest.


----------



## M3TAl

Will we be seeing reviews right before launch? Can't believe I've only been able to find one video of the H220X on YouTube... Why wasn't their more coverage like the original H220?


----------



## Scorpion667

I own two H220 kits, one is first batch and the other 1.5 months old.

The first kit was replaced due to pump failure. That replacement unit suffered from a pump failure some months later. The pump on the second kit just died 2 minutes ago. Three Swiftech h220 pump deaths in total.

Some background:
First kit I tried to troubleshoot with Bryan, drained and opened the pump to clean. The fill cap on the second kit was never opened. The very first kit also degraded my CPU (worth $600 at the time) which had since been RMA'd with Intel (for other reasons).

So here I am sitting next to two dead h220 kits trying to maintain my cool while writing this instead of bashing Swiftech. I spent at least 20 hours in total troubleshooting these products. Also had 7 days of downtime if not more. The last two kits were both plugged in to the Swiftech hub, a known working tested molex and a known working tested mobo PWM header. The first unit died while plugged straight into the mobo CPU PWM fan header. All three units have been plugged into an external PSU to confirm they are indeed lifeless. My PC has been plugged into a power surge protector since it was built in March 2012 and the Swiftech units were the only components to ever die in this PC. As a result, I refuse to do any additional troubleshooting on these units. I simply don't have the time to keep doing this whole teardown thing.

With that in mind, I kindly request a full refund for the second unit please. I can return the unit with full accessories and retail package to Ncix or Swiftech directly, however you prefer. Unit has never been opened, drained or anything like that. It went from the retail package into my PC and been there since.
Unfortunately due to the extreme amount of frustration these three units have caused me, I no longer trust Swiftech AIO's in my system.

Not to mention the RMA process in Canada is extremely complicated as I have to go through Ncix to fulfill RMA's as per Swiftech. The problem with that is that the Ncix product page used to say "no returns, contact manufacturer directly". After Swiftech got Ncix to do their RMA's for them this was changed but the employees were not told/trained about this as I received pushback from 3 different people at Ncix when trying to RMA the unit. So Swiftech sends me to Ncix, Ncix sends me to Swiftech. Not cool.

Whether or not Swiftech agrees to fulfill my refund request, I will note that Bryan has genuinely been extremely helpful and patient with me amidst this chaos and for that I am greatful either way.


----------



## mMmOishi

Ewwwwww. I opened my H220 today which has been running perfectly fine for about a month. I am expanding the loop and decided to clean the pump while I was at it. Any idea what this stuff is (plasticizer)?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It should be available at the end of March or early April at the latest.


Does this release date apply to the new pumps also?


----------



## Rainman33

my swiftech h220 got burn and i dont know why, i just used it for 4 months!


----------



## Rainman33




----------



## agarabaghi

here is my new miner setup...

Glacier 240m cpu / pump block running the whole thing.

Koolance 1080 Radiator
3x 290 EKWB full cover water blocks
1x i7 4770k
modded XSPC reservoir




Pump runs everything great!


----------



## crabula

Thinking of selling my H320, moving back to air, too worried of leak/failure. Small chance but if it ever happens nothing is covered and I'm poor.

It's a shame because the pump has been dead silent at all RPMs since I bought it a few months ago and I haven't expanded it or even opened the fillport yet. Guess I'll tinker when I'm rich









Farewell club, temps & overclocks


----------



## agarabaghi

The xspc reservoir is the funniest part of the whole loop. JBwelded the back of it to block off the pump holes, then drilled out the the "out" hole casue it seems to not let water back in?
-
the In from the bottom, goes into the pump -> gpu blocks -> radiator -> into the reservoir...


----------



## delpy8

hi guys,

Can someone confirm if the intel backplate from the Swiftech APOGEEHD Hd is compatible with the H320 cpu block/pump if not where can I get a replacement for the swiftech H320?

Sorry I also have a backplate from a corsair h100i would that fit?

Thanks


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> Can someone confirm if the intel backplate from the Swiftech APOGEEHD Hd is compatible with the H320 cpu block/pump if not where can I get a replacement for the swiftech H320?
> 
> Thanks


I believe the Swiftech H220/320 units come with a 3 year warranty. I would contact Swiftech about this.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I believe the Swiftech H220/320 units come with a 3 year warranty. I would contact Swiftech about this.


Thanks for that, I thought this forum would of been a quicker way for me to find out what back plate i could use as Im in the UK

Cheers


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> Can someone confirm if the intel backplate from the Swiftech APOGEEHD Hd is compatible with the H320 cpu block/pump if not where can I get a replacement for the swiftech H320?
> 
> Sorry I also have a backplate from a corsair h100i would that fit?
> 
> Thanks


For what CPU socket?


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For what CPU socket?


Hi sorry should of said the socket is 1150 i7 4770k


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi sorry should of said the socket is 1150 i7 4770k


Yes, the Apogee HD back plate is compatible.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the Apogee HD back plate is compatible.


Thanks for that, I've emailed the European rma department as the problem I have is one of the screws does not fully seat not sure if the screw hole is threaded? This has only happened since last Friday as I installed a new motherboard Doh so was going to buy the Apogee HD for another pc as a temp fix until I got something sorted with swiftech


----------



## extreme-oc

Hello.










I have a serious problem with my new swiftech H320 and my MoBo Z87X-OC.

The H320 arrived from Germany 2 days ago via AMAZON. Previously I had the H220.

I mounted a regular H320...But my bios (tested also F7 bios) ...:

does not see it: that the pump speed remains at zero value and see what the temperatures are high:





The three fans of H320 running normally and pumps seem to be working because you can hear noise.

The thermal paste was put as always: a grain of rice.

In H320 I noticed something strange: the screw to top up the fluid shows signs of wear: while in H220 this is perfect.

I tried different BIOS versions and I also did a CMOS bios but nothing has changed.

Please,what should I do? It is a H320 bad?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a serious problem with my new swiftech H320 and my MoBo Z87X-OC.
> 
> The H320 arrived from Germany 2 days ago via AMAZON. Previously I had the H220.
> 
> I mounted a regular H320...But my bios (tested also F7 bios) ...:
> 
> does not see it: that the pump speed remains at zero value and see what the temperatures are high:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The three fans of H320 running normally and pumps seem to be working because you can hear noise.
> 
> The thermal paste was put as always: a grain of rice.
> 
> In H320 I noticed something strange: the screw to top up the fluid shows signs of wear: while in H220 this is perfect.
> 
> I tried different BIOS versions and I also did a CMOS bios but nothing has changed.
> 
> Please,what should I do? It is a H320 bad?


OK, if your motherboard doesn't see the pump then it really doesn't matter if the pump is working or not. There should be an RPM value regardless. Please contact your reseller and let them know that you need a replacement.


----------



## THEEDUUDE

Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of an annoying rattling sound?


----------



## extreme-oc

Quote:


> OK, if your motherboard doesn't see the pump then it really doesn't matter if the pump is working or not. There should be an RPM value regardless. Please contact your reseller and let them know that you need a replacement.


Ok...thank you for big help *BramSLI1*. Very kind.

Regards.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THEEDUUDE*
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of an annoying rattling sound?


If you haven't tried the instructions in the OP then please try that first to see if it resolves your issue. If it doesn't then please PM me and I'll see what else can be done to resolve your issue.


----------



## X-Alt

I mounted my Glacer with ease and its working. My concern is that the AMD backplate is slightly pulling up at the last 10% of the end with the rest sitting perfectly flat, the cooler itself is making 100% full contact with the CPU and is secure, is this normall\okay? I used my FX8320 box to keep the plate in its place.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I own two H220 kits, one is first batch and the other 1.5 months old.
> 
> The first kit was replaced due to pump failure. That replacement unit suffered from a pump failure some months later. The pump on the second kit just died 2 minutes ago. Three Swiftech h220 pump deaths in total.
> 
> Some background:
> First kit I tried to troubleshoot with Bryan, drained and opened the pump to clean. The fill cap on the second kit was never opened. The very first kit also degraded my CPU (worth $600 at the time) which had since been RMA'd with Intel (for other reasons).
> 
> So here I am sitting next to two dead h220 kits trying to maintain my cool while writing this instead of bashing Swiftech. I spent at least 20 hours in total troubleshooting these products. Also had 7 days of downtime if not more. The last two kits were both plugged in to the Swiftech hub, a known working tested molex and a known working tested mobo PWM header. The first unit died while plugged straight into the mobo CPU PWM fan header. All three units have been plugged into an external PSU to confirm they are indeed lifeless. My PC has been plugged into a power surge protector since it was built in March 2012 and the Swiftech units were the only components to ever die in this PC. As a result, I refuse to do any additional troubleshooting on these units. I simply don't have the time to keep doing this whole teardown thing.
> 
> With that in mind, I kindly request a full refund for the second unit please. I can return the unit with full accessories and retail package to Ncix or Swiftech directly, however you prefer. Unit has never been opened, drained or anything like that. It went from the retail package into my PC and been there since.
> Unfortunately due to the extreme amount of frustration these three units have caused me, I no longer trust Swiftech AIO's in my system.
> 
> Not to mention the RMA process in Canada is extremely complicated as I have to go through Ncix to fulfill RMA's as per Swiftech. The problem with that is that the Ncix product page used to say "no returns, contact manufacturer directly". After Swiftech got Ncix to do their RMA's for them this was changed but the employees were not told/trained about this as I received pushback from 3 different people at Ncix when trying to RMA the unit. So Swiftech sends me to Ncix, Ncix sends me to Swiftech. Not cool.
> 
> Whether or not Swiftech agrees to fulfill my refund request, I will note that Bryan has genuinely been extremely helpful and patient with me amidst this chaos and for that I am greatful either way.


Bump


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> I own two H220 kits, one is first batch and the other 1.5 months old.
> 
> The first kit was replaced due to pump failure. That replacement unit suffered from a pump failure some months later. The pump on the second kit just died 2 minutes ago. Three Swiftech h220 pump deaths in total.
> 
> Some background:
> First kit I tried to troubleshoot with Bryan, drained and opened the pump to clean. The fill cap on the second kit was never opened. The very first kit also degraded my CPU (worth $600 at the time) which had since been RMA'd with Intel (for other reasons).
> 
> So here I am sitting next to two dead h220 kits trying to maintain my cool while writing this instead of bashing Swiftech. I spent at least 20 hours in total troubleshooting these products. Also had 7 days of downtime if not more. The last two kits were both plugged in to the Swiftech hub, a known working tested molex and a known working tested mobo PWM header. The first unit died while plugged straight into the mobo CPU PWM fan header. All three units have been plugged into an external PSU to confirm they are indeed lifeless. My PC has been plugged into a power surge protector since it was built in March 2012 and the Swiftech units were the only components to ever die in this PC. As a result, I refuse to do any additional troubleshooting on these units. I simply don't have the time to keep doing this whole teardown thing.
> 
> With that in mind, I kindly request a full refund for the second unit please. I can return the unit with full accessories and retail package to Ncix or Swiftech directly, however you prefer. Unit has never been opened, drained or anything like that. It went from the retail package into my PC and been there since.
> Unfortunately due to the extreme amount of frustration these three units have caused me, I no longer trust Swiftech AIO's in my system.
> 
> Not to mention the RMA process in Canada is extremely complicated as I have to go through Ncix to fulfill RMA's as per Swiftech. The problem with that is that the Ncix product page used to say "no returns, contact manufacturer directly". After Swiftech got Ncix to do their RMA's for them this was changed but the employees were not told/trained about this as I received pushback from 3 different people at Ncix when trying to RMA the unit. So Swiftech sends me to Ncix, Ncix sends me to Swiftech. Not cool.
> 
> Whether or not Swiftech agrees to fulfill my refund request, I will note that Bryan has genuinely been extremely helpful and patient with me amidst this chaos and for that I am greatful either way.
Click to expand...

Not sure why you bought a 2nd H220. I see no reason for you to do that. So a refund is not possible, as you bought. All you can do is sell it.
Do not worry what NCIX no returns. That is not for warranty. NCIX handles the warranty for Switch in Canada. NCIX reps sometimes do not know this. Gotta make sure you talk to the correct department for RMA.
I have a H220 and got it replaced 2 times. The 3rd one is still working fine since August. Sometimes the CPU on some mobo are not fully 12v, and can cause an issue. This is mostly on Asus boards. After using the direct power from splitter no more issue caused.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Not sure why you bought a 2nd H220. I see no reason for you to do that. So a refund is not possible, as you bought. All you can do is sell it.
> Do not worry what NCIX no returns. That is not for warranty. NCIX handles the warranty for Switch in Canada. NCIX reps sometimes do not know this. Gotta make sure you talk to the correct department for RMA.
> I have a H220 and got it replaced 2 times. The 3rd one is still working fine since August. Sometimes the CPU on some mobo are not fully 12v, and can cause an issue. This is mostly on Asus boards. After using the direct power from splitter no more issue caused.


The second H220 was intended for another system, before my other one died.
Every time I called NCIX it was to speak to their RMA dept. Why would you assume that I have an interest in speaking to anyone else there? Except maybe Esther








The Molex line at the connector measures 12.196v idle, 12.00v load as per digital multimeter. The pumps were connected via the included hub into this molex.

You're probably right, but It doesn't hurt to ask 'nomsayin?


----------



## Spongeworthy

Has the H220X 2x140mm actually been finalized?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I mounted my Glacer with ease and its working. My concern is that the AMD backplate is slightly pulling up at the last 10% of the end with the rest sitting perfectly flat, the cooler itself is making 100% full contact with the CPU and is secure, is this normall\okay? I used my FX8320 box to keep the plate in its place.


Anyone?


----------



## Mega Man

have no idea what you mean sorry, pics help !


----------



## X-Alt

Oh god, now it boots but turns off after a few secs, remounted and still fail... Any ideas as to why?


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Oh god, now it boots but turns off after a few secs, remounted and still fail... Any ideas as to why?


What turns off? The H220 pump or the PC???

Is the block snagging on anything like a Mosfet heatsink, perhaps not making contact with the CPU as a result?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> What turns off? The H220 pump or the PC???
> 
> Is the block snagging on anything like a Mosfet heatsink, perhaps not making contact with the CPU as a result?


PC. I see blue artifacts b4 it goes. I will try tommorow with some help, along with a reseat of memory.. Otherwise, I might have a fried board or something is shorting the board out, I took ESD precautions and had the PSU plugged but turned off....


----------



## Mega Man

you have a CVFz did how did you mount the h220 inlet out let left/right or up down ? others have had issues ( os did ) where it was not making good contact i would check the mount !

as it sounds like you are turning off due to thermals !


----------



## Papadope

Does anyone know when we should expect availability for the Glacer 360L? I need something stronger than my current NH-D14 to cool this FX-9590 and I'm trying to avoid going custom loop due to cost and time.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Does anyone know when we should expect availability for the Glacer 360L? I need something stronger than my current NH-D14 to cool this FX-9590 and I'm trying to avoid going custom loop due to cost and time.


There is the H320 which is the same.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is the H320 which is the same.


I would actually prefer to purchase the Swiftech model but im in the US. My thought was to purchase it through NCIX, They actually have it listed on their US website but I don't know if they will ship it. How much more effective is the H320 compared to the H220?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> I would actually prefer to purchase the Swiftech model but im in the US. My thought was to purchase it through NCIX, They actually have it listed on their US website but I don't know if they will ship it. How much more effective is the H320 compared to the H220?


You get an extra 120mm added to the rad. You will get better cooling.
The case you have is what you are using? Problem is your case do not support a rad on top as you do not have proper mounting and not sure on the clearance.
Also the airflow on this case is lacking.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have a CVFz did how did you mount the h220 inlet out let left/right or up down ? others have had issues ( os did ) where it was not making good contact i would check the mount !
> 
> as it sounds like you are turning off due to thermals !


I seem to have snagged due to the VRM heatsink, any ideas on how to force it under? The Cooler Master logo is right-side up (AKA tubes on the pump are on top). imansfault had it in the same orientation as me, hopefully it is just a backplate issue and my father can halp me out balancing it...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have a CVFz did how did you mount the h220 inlet out let left/right or up down ? others have had issues ( os did ) where it was not making good contact i would check the mount !
> 
> as it sounds like you are turning off due to thermals !
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to have snagged due to the VRM heatsink, any ideas on how to force it under? The Cooler Master logo is right-side up (AKA tubes on the pump are on top). imansfault had it in the same orientation as me, hopefully it is just a backplate issue and my father can halp me out balancing it...
Click to expand...

the one i am using has the hoses on top/bottom

i moved the mounts 90deg granted it was not easy ( 1 being easy on 1-10 this was a 2 ) , and for the backplate i just use a washcloth or rag ( or 2 ) behing the mobo tray i do it while my pc is in my case. and just push hard

or you can grind down your bracket


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the one i am using has the hoses on top/bottom
> 
> i moved the mounts 90deg granted it was not easy ( 1 being easy on 1-10 this was a 2 ) , and for the backplate i just use a washcloth or rag ( or 2 ) behing the mobo tray i do it while my pc is in my case. and just push hard
> 
> or you can grind down your bracket


I have loose-ish swivels, no worries there. A feels a bit dangerous, ESD much? My concern is rather how do I get it under the VRM sink to prevent damage and make contact without cutting the end off? I will post a pic later, you confirm if its ready2boot and we shall be on our ways..


----------



## Mega Man

i put it on as close as i could slid it under and then just held in place

orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

buy the water block for the board !


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i put it on as close as i could slid it under and then just held in place
> 
> orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
> 
> buy the water block for the board !


Not happening







I will try and slide it under to the best of my ability.


----------



## X-Alt

If you could post a pic of your unmodded H220 in a CHVF-Z, it would be helpful. I gotta go 4 nao, so I will assemble in a few hours.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You get an extra 120mm added to the rad. You will get better cooling.
> The case you have is what you are using? Problem is your case do not support a rad on top as you do not have proper mounting and not sure on the clearance.
> Also the airflow on this case is lacking.


Yea, over the last 2 1/2 years I have changed every single component of my original build except for the case and now it's time for it to go. I think ill be upgrading to the NZXT H440. Have to wait alittle while to get it though. I think im going to order the H320 and place it outside on top of my case until the H440 comes in. The fans on the H320 are mounted on the top of the rad and the top of my case is almost entirely vented so it shouldn't be too big of a problem. Not ideal but at least ill be able to work on my overclock while I wait for the H440.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Yea, over the last 2 1/2 years I have changed every single component of my original build except for the case and now it's time for it to go. I think ill be upgrading to the NZXT H440. Have to wait alittle while to get it though. I think im going to order the H320 and place it outside on top of my case until the H440 comes in. The fans on the H320 are mounted on the top of the rad and the top of my case is almost entirely vented so it shouldn't be too big of a problem. Not ideal but at least ill be able to work on my overclock while I wait for the H440.


You can order directly from NZXT for the H440. They have the White/Black in stock. Not the Black/red.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> I would actually prefer to purchase the Swiftech model but im in the US. My thought was to purchase it through NCIX, They actually have it listed on their US website but I don't know if they will ship it. How much more effective is the H320 compared to the H220?


Ncix will ship it. The h320 is on sale right now too. I got my h220 to California from the ncix USA site.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You get an extra 120mm added to the rad. You will get better cooling.
> The case you have is what you are using? Problem is your case do not support a rad on top as you do not have proper mounting and not sure on the clearance.
> Also the airflow on this case is lacking.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, over the last 2 1/2 years I have changed every single component of my original build except for the case and now it's time for it to go. I think ill be upgrading to the NZXT H440. Have to wait alittle while to get it though. I think im going to order the H320 and place it outside on top of my case until the H440 comes in. The fans on the H320 are mounted on the top of the rad and the top of my case is almost entirely vented so it shouldn't be too big of a problem. Not ideal but at least ill be able to work on my overclock while I wait for the H440.
Click to expand...

save yourself from the next upgrade and just buy a caselabs now !~


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can order directly from NZXT for the H440. They have the White/Black in stock. Not the Black/red.


Good to know but i'm going to hold out for the black and red, it matches my setup. Everything I currently have is black with red accents. Pre-ordering the black and red direct from NZXT says they wont ship until march due to order volume. I wonder if it will ship faster if I pre-order through Newegg.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Ncix will ship it. The h320 is on sale right now too. I got my h220 to California from the ncix USA site.


Nice!, I'll be placing the order today.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> save yourself from the next upgrade and just buy a caselabs now !~


I like micro upgrading! It's fun







Besides, I don't think i'm ready for a caselabs. I'll get there though.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Good to know but i'm going to hold out for the black and red, it matches my setup. Everything I currently have is black with red accents. Pre-ordering the black and red direct from NZXT says they wont ship until march due to order volume. I wonder if it will ship faster if I pre-order through Newegg.


You can also pre-order the H440 from NCIX also.
Most retail wont see till end of February anyways.


----------



## X-Alt

Backplate issue, any halp? Its slightly lifting back even after the end of the bracket was cut.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Backplate issue, any halp? Its slightly lifting back even after the end of the bracket was cut.


you are using the amd brackets for the h220 right ?

you are using the normal intel screws with amd springs ?

did you dry fit them to the backplate before install ?

the great thing about swiftechs mounting system is you want to take it and bury the screws full length the block and springs does the "proper pressure " part on its own


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are using the amd brackets for the h220 right ?
> 
> you are using the normal intel screws with amd springs ?
> 
> did you dry fit them to the backplate before install ?
> 
> the great thing about swiftechs mounting system is you want to take it and bury the screws full length the block and springs does the "proper pressure " part on its own


AMD Screws and Intel Springs (No AMD springs were included and all springs look the same). Will get dry fit images up.


----------



## X-Alt

Dry fits like a charm.


----------



## Mega Man

you are snugging up in a "X" pattern ? then tightening from there ?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are snugging up in a "X" pattern ? then tightening from there ?


I had help (cut teh bracket and screw it in, arms are sore as heck when I was excersizing) and , he did not really criss cross pattern when tightening, IDK what he did when snugging since I am quite weak.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anyone here confirm if the Swiftech H220 rad+fan combination fits the HAF 922?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can anyone here confirm if the Swiftech H220 rad+fan combination fits the HAF 922?


What you can do is measure from the top inside of your case. You need 55mm clearance minimum.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What you can do is measure from the top inside of your case. You need 55mm clearance minimum.


I'll try and do that. Do you know if the H220X will need less clearance?


----------



## Scorpion667

So I'm on my 4th H220 after 3 pump deaths. Fresh RMA

My 4th unit runs 15c higher than my previous unit......................

8 reseats, same method of applying thermal paste, same thermal paste used.
Upon removing the CPu block, the TIM spread looks exactly the same as all my other units - very good spread with a thin, transparent layer in the middle of the IHS



In fact it shot up to 76c just uploading that picture to OCN

There are no air bubbles in the pump at max RPM, fans are obviously spinning. I'm guessing the microchannels are filled with plasticizer on this BRAND SPANKING NEW UNIT

Cinebench 11.5 at 4.7Ghz 1.368v hits 82-83c after a single run, compared to 68-69c on the previous unit. At stock clocks and voltage CPU hits 82c in prime95. After 5 seconds. My hyper 212 cools better than this!

I'm so friggin EXHAUSTED from dealing with these units!!!

If I got paid the hourly rate I do at work for every hour spent troubleshooting/RMA'ing H220's I could afford a reference 780TI. It's absolutely sad


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'll try and do that. Do you know if the H220X will need less clearance?


Right now the H220X will need the same clearance or a little more. Until I see how it all fits, I'm only guessing.


----------



## X-Alt

Mother of fail, I forgot the springs were on top -_-


----------



## X-Alt

Mission Accomplished, aaand the Matrix starts acting up. Until later, pics soon!


----------



## Johnnywas

Normally not one to complain about hardware failures as they are just something to expect in this industry.

However, i work for a boutique custom system builder in Australia and we decided to give these a go in our product line. During the trial we had 6 systems go out with either the h220 or h320.

Out of that we had 1 unit arrive with us DOA and the rest of the systems over a period of time simply failed. Our last one was received back today which brings our failure rate to 85%...

I'm not sure whether this is simply a bad or early batch being sold by distributors in Australia but needless to say we have very quickly removed them from our line and have had to fork out a fair bit replacing faulty units in systems to our tried and tested custom liquid cooling.

Big shame as it was a promising concept.


----------



## sdmf74

@BRAMSLI1 or anyone, I just got an EK block for my 780ti kingpin, Im adding an Alphacool monsta 240mm rad to my H220 loop as well.
I want to add one of these primochill flow indicators and will also have a few 90 degree rotaries as well:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19700/ex-res-499/PrimoChill_Vortex_Black_POM_Visual_Flow_Indicators_-_Clear_Faceplates_FI-V.html?id=FrUT5Hqm&mv_pc=28185
Will this cause any flow restriction issues or anything else I should be concerned about?

Also when mounting the rad vertically, is it best to have in/out ports at the top or does it matter?


----------



## Mega Man

res up and no flow wise you should be fine


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> res up and no flow wise you should be fine


res up? no I was asking about mounting the monsta rad vertically not the H220


----------



## Mega Man

oo i have mine mounted in every direction possible ( even to the sides lol ) as long as the loop is full it will push the air out and into your res


----------



## agarabaghi

Didn't one of the swiftech reps post about a pump that would be backwards compativle with the h220 cpu block? anyone know whihc?


----------



## 66racer

I ended up taking my h220 apart to check the copper fins for that assembly lube or whatever it is everyone calls plasticizer...my fins had some but not nearly enough to have been an issue. Its nice Knowing mine are clean. I just wish swiftech didnt glue the cap onto the pump lid. I would have loved to run it without the beauty cap for a more industrial look.

All I can say is I hope mine doesnt fail...or at least last long enough to just replace it with an apogee drive 2. I have been very pleased with the h220's performance. Im just wondering if there is a relationship to primary speed range used and failure rate? Wonder if the minimum rated rpm is too low for these. I like to keep mine around 1800rpm and spin it to 100% while gaming. Sure the gains are marginal but love having the lowest temps possible and I cant hear it with the game playing either.


----------



## Papadope

If I order the H320 from NCIX and I have a problem with the product down the road will Swiftech honor the warranty or is the warranty only valid for units sold to the US before removing them from the market?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> If I order the H320 from NCIX and I have a problem with the product down the road will Swiftech honor the warranty or is the warranty only valid for units sold to the US before removing them from the market?


Yes swiftech is taking care of the warranty in the usa. Im sure the rep will reassure you of my response though.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I ended up taking my h220 apart to check the copper fins for that assembly lube or whatever it is everyone calls plasticizer...my fins had some but not nearly enough to have been an issue. Its nice Knowing mine are clean. I just wish swiftech didnt glue the cap onto the pump lid. I would have loved to run it without the beauty cap for a more industrial look.
> 
> All I can say is I hope mine doesnt fail...or at least last long enough to just replace it with an apogee drive 2. I have been very pleased with the h220's performance. Im just wondering if there is a relationship to primary speed range used and failure rate? Wonder if the minimum rated rpm is too low for these. I like to keep mine around 1800rpm and spin it to 100% while gaming. Sure the gains are marginal but love having the lowest temps possible and I cant hear it with the game playing either.


So far, walking into my 3rd month without any serious level of hitches, though I'm not a control group, if anything I'm the variable group as I never ran my loop using the stock tubing at any point(and swapped out for primochil adv lrt) so plasticizer is probably much more minor on my end. I run my loo primarily at 20%(~1450 rpm) ramping up to 30% past 40c and 50% at 60c(I never really hit this unless purposeful stress)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> If I order the H320 from NCIX and I have a problem with the product down the road will Swiftech honor the warranty or is the warranty only valid for units sold to the US before removing them from the market?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes swiftech is taking care of the warranty in the usa. Im sure the rep will reassure you of my response though.
Click to expand...

swiftech stands behind their products


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I ended up taking my h220 apart to check the copper fins for that assembly lube or whatever it is everyone calls plasticizer...my fins had some but not nearly enough to have been an issue. Its nice Knowing mine are clean. I just wish swiftech didnt glue the cap onto the pump lid. I would have loved to run it without the beauty cap for a more industrial look.
> 
> All I can say is I hope mine doesnt fail...or at least last long enough to just replace it with an apogee drive 2. I have been very pleased with the h220's performance. Im just wondering if there is a relationship to primary speed range used and failure rate? Wonder if the minimum rated rpm is too low for these. I like to keep mine around 1800rpm and spin it to 100% while gaming. Sure the gains are marginal but love having the lowest temps possible and I cant hear it with the game playing either.


been running my h320 since last august for 10 hours a day with absolutely no issues--







thats about 1700 hours use if my maths is right

2600k @ 5ghz

1500rpm on idle and 2000rpm on load

not really sure why you would run it 100% on load but hey thats up to you

i have nothing but praise for it--on idle my external blacx hard drive dock is literally louder than the h320


----------



## agarabaghi

no one knows which upgraded pump will fit on the glacier 240 block? I could have sworn it was the 35x ?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> no one knows which upgraded pump will fit on the glacier 240 block? I could have sworn it was the 35x ?


Not without dremel mods, and that is a big maybe. A 35x or any DDC laing based pump would at least require dremel removal of the shaft support at the inlet, and I'm not sure if that is all or if it would even work. They "look" similar otherwise, but to my knowledge, that mod (h220>ddc) attempt has never been tried and tested to be sure.

What may be more bolt on swappable is the upcoming but not yet released mcp 50x. That is Swiftech's in house pump motor based on very similar H220 impeller dimensions. Supposedly the 50 will get extra motor poles and run at 4500rpm and have similar or better performance than the 35x, but that pump isn't on the shelves yet.

If someone had a bad h220 pump and a spare DDC motor they wanted to possibly sacrifice, they might try the mod and let everyone know.
I think you would just have to remove the impeller shaft support, but it is all speculation if it would even work for sure. It may not work.

H220









35x









?


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Not without dremel mods, and that is a big maybe. A 35x or any DDC laing based pump would at least require dremel removal of the shaft support at the inlet, and I'm not sure if that is all. They "look" similar otherwise, but to my knowledge, that mod attempt has never been tried and tested to be sure.
> 
> What may be more bolt on swappable is the upcoming but not yet released mcp 50x. That is Swiftech's in house pump motor based on very similar H220 impeller dimensions. Supposedly the 50 will get extra motor poles and run at 4500rpm and have similar or better performance than the 35x, but that pump isn't on the shelves yet.
> 
> If someone had a bad h220 pumpnand a spare DDC motor they didn't or could RMA, they might try the mod.
> I think you would just have fo remove the impeller shaft support, but I could be wrong!!


Interesting I could have sworn the swiftech guy answer on this this thread about on of hte new pumps being able to fit directly on the 240L block... hmmmm


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> Interesting I could have sworn the swiftech guy answer on this this thread about on of hte new pumps being able to fit directly on the 240L block... hmmmm


Maybe, they would know. maybe the laing impeller opening is big enough to clear the shaft support.

or maybe they were referring to the new mcp 50 ?


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Maybe, they would know. maybe the laing impeller opening is big enough to clear the shaft support.
> 
> or maybe they were referring to the new mcp 50 ?


I think it was one of the new pumps... I will see if i can find the post...


----------



## agarabaghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> True.
> 
> The housing that's on the MCP50X is 100% compatible with the pump that came with H220. If we (or third parties) decide to sell after market tops for the MCP50X, then you could install these tops on the H220 pump.


I found this...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agarabaghi*
> 
> I found this...


That's the new MCP50X not the current MCP35X. These are two different pumps.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Not without dremel mods, and that is a big maybe. A 35x or any DDC laing based pump would at least require dremel removal of the shaft support at the inlet, and I'm not sure if that is all or if it would even work. They "look" similar otherwise, but to my knowledge, that mod (h220>ddc) attempt has never been tried and tested to be sure.
> 
> What may be more bolt on swappable is the upcoming but not yet released mcp 50x. That is Swiftech's in house pump motor based on very similar H220 impeller dimensions. Supposedly the 50 will get extra motor poles and run at 4500rpm and have similar or better performance than the 35x, but that pump isn't on the shelves yet.
> 
> If someone had a bad h220 pump and a spare DDC motor they wanted to possibly sacrifice, they might try the mod and let everyone know.
> I think you would just have to remove the impeller shaft support, but it is all speculation if it would even work for sure. It may not work.
> 
> H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 35x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I wish I could afford to sacrifice an h220 to try this! Almost seems like a simple mod with the right tools and some measuring.

That said I was curious if there was a resistor of some sort that limits the speed to 3000rpm as opposed to 3500rpm for the cooler master. Only downside it seems removing the epoxy would be the minimum and that looks risky and likely not able to be nodded easily.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> been running my h320 since last august for 10 hours a day with absolutely no issues--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats about 1700 hours use if my maths is right
> 
> 2600k @ 5ghz
> 
> 1500rpm on idle and 2000rpm on load
> *
> not really sure why you would run it 100% on load but hey thats up to you*
> 
> i have nothing but praise for it--on idle my external blacx hard drive dock is literally louder than the h320


From 50% to 100% I got a 3c drop in gpu temps pushing through the stock 240mm and a 180mm. I'm overvolting my 770 so figure cooler is better







also I don't hear the pump when gaming due to game sounds so why not. Otherwise yeah I suppose 41c to 44-45c is pointless.


----------



## sdmf74

Has anyone used different clamps on their H220/H320? Im thinkin about ordering some of these bitspower clamps. Should look sweet with white tubing










Should work fine as long as I get the 5/8" OD clamps right?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Has anyone used different clamps on their H220/H320? Im thinkin about ordering some of these bitspower clamps. Should look sweet with white tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should work fine as long as I get the 5/8" OD clamps right?


I have used the Primochill tubing clamps, and they work just fine!

Thanks - T


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> I have used the Primochill tubing clamps, and they work just fine!


That's funny I was just looking at those but I seen they said they were for 1/2" ID so I didnt know if they would fit. Anyway I think these bitspower ones look pretty slick, I hope they work. They dont look any bigger than the stock clamps so they shouldnt interefere with anything. Im just worried the plastic (stock) clamps threads will strip or be less reliable after reusing them.
Rep up thrasher thanx!


----------



## zila

I was looking at those too. The ones that come with the H220 are kinda cheap and easy to strip the threads. I'm currently using the Alphacool clamps in the pics.





For me, I just found them easier to deal with.

Edit: those Bits Power clamps look nice by the way.


----------



## sdmf74

Thanx yeah they should look awesome with white tubing. I just placed my last 2 orders,hard to find everything needed and in stock but I think I got everything. Now just have to wait for it all to arrive (from 3 different retailers).


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Has anyone used different clamps on their H220/H320? Im thinkin about ordering some of these bitspower clamps. Should look sweet with white tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should work fine as long as I get the 5/8" OD clamps right?


Im actually using those exact clamps and love 'em... cant go wrong if you ask me.

they do however use hex instead of Phillips ... nbd tho


----------



## zila

The more I look at them the more I like them. I may just have to order me up a set of those.


----------



## kevindd992002

Anyone with the HAF922 plus ASUS P8Z68 board able to fit the H220?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> The more I look at them the more I like them. I may just have to order me up a set of those.


$25 for 5 of em. Mad goat nice rig I really like that tubing


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Anyone with the HAF922 plus ASUS P8Z68 board able to fit the H220?


dont know about the haf 922

but my h320 block fits P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 no problems


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> dont know about the haf 922
> 
> but my h320 block fits P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 no problems


Well, what is your case?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> That's funny I was just looking at those but I seen they said they were for 1/2" ID so I didnt know if they would fit. Anyway I think these bitspower ones look pretty slick, I hope they work. They dont look any bigger than the stock clamps so they shouldnt interefere with anything. Im just worried the plastic (stock) clamps threads will strip or be less reliable after reusing them.
> Rep up thrasher thanx!


Wait what?









Didn't you ask about 5/8" OD? That's what I linked, and if not, flip pack one tier in their pages, and you should see them all!

NP man, I knew those clamps were going bye-bye, so I got out some old ones, and BOOM.









Thanks - T


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, what is your case?


coolermaster storm trooper


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> coolermaster storm trooper


Do you have lot of space left when you install the H220?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you have lot of space left when you install the H220?


i have an h320 not a h220 so its longer than the h220 obviously

so it was tricky to fit in--but i am not using any mechanical hard drives only ssd

so i took the hard drive cages out and mounted it vertically in the front of the case


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> i have an h320 not a h220 so its longer than the h220 obviously
> 
> so it was tricky to fit in--but i am not using any mechanical hard drives only ssd
> 
> so i took the hard drive cages out and mounted it vertically in the front of the case


Oh ok. Thanks anyway.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

hye guys do you know if the 240l glacer can fit in my Case its an Antec P280 white , i have the kraken x40 but it doesnt fit anywhere so i had to DIY and shove it into the CD drive area =/


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> hye guys do you know if the 240l glacer can fit in my Case its an Antec P280 white , i have the kraken x40 but it doesnt fit anywhere so i had to DIY and shove it into the CD drive area =/


You will have to measure the top to see if you have clearance. You need about 55mm clearance.


----------



## nobilRAUL

hi, im waiting for swiftech h320.. it has some problems?? thank u


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You will have to measure the top to see if you have clearance. You need about 55mm clearance.


Ok cool , so has anyone tired to add GPU blocks to it ? I am at the verge of ordering them and It would be great if i can add on 2 GPU blocks to the
Glacers loop so it will be CPU> GPU1 > GPU2 > radiator
would it work or is that amount of heat to much ? Im running a MSI lighting 7970 OC to 1150 mHZ and a XFX 7970 black edition at 1150mhz too they are 70% of the time Mining for litecoins ( computer is On 24/7 ) and I pause the mining when im back to play games etc


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Ok cool , so has anyone tired to add GPU blocks to it ? I am at the verge of ordering them and It would be great if i can add on 2 GPU blocks to the
> Glacers loop so it will be CPU> GPU1 > GPU2 > radiator
> would it work or is that amount of heat to much ? Im running a MSI lighting 7970 OC to 1150 mHZ and a XFX 7970 black edition at 1150mhz too they are 70% of the time Mining for litecoins ( computer is On 24/7 ) and I pause the mining when im back to play games etc


That's going to tax a 240L with it's 120x2 rad. CPU plus 2 gpu's should have a 120x3 rad. That much loop may be too much for the 240l pump to maintain 0.7-1.5gpm. This site can give you a idea on how adding to the loop effects flow rates and pressure.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I guess a quick update. It's been 10 days since I disassembled the pump and cleaned out the plasticizer from it and the radiator. Haven't heard any air bubbles since then and my temps are amazing.


----------



## DarthElvis

Quick question. If I add a micro res, will I void the warranty on my H220? The rad needs to be on it's side to fit in my HAF XB so I want a res since the built in one is pretty much useless now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthElvis*
> 
> Quick question. If I add a micro res, will I void the warranty on my H220? The rad needs to be on it's side to fit in my HAF XB so I want a res since the built in one is pretty much useless now.


No, adding a reservoir, or any other component to your loop for that matter, will not void your warranty. This kit was designed to be expanded. We even did a video on how to add a graphics card to the loop for exactly that reason.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Wait what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you ask about 5/8" OD? That's what I linked, and if not, flip pack one tier in their pages, and you should see them all!


Yes but it was the product details in the listing that confused me, I didnt know for sure if they would fit my 3/8ID X 5/8OD Tubing. here is what the listing says @ perf. pc's:
"Reusable Hose Clamp for connecting 16mm (5/8") OD, 13mm (1/2") ID tubing to any barbed fittings."


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yes but it was the product details in the listing that confused me, I didnt know for sure if they would fit my 3/8ID X 5/8OD Tubing. here is what the listing says @ perf. pc's:
> "Reusable Hose Clamp for connecting 16mm (5/8") OD, 13mm (1/2") ID tubing to any barbed fittings."


With barb clamps the OD is all you need to worry about. The clamps go over the outer diameter of the tubing so the inner diameter really doesn't make any difference.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Ok cool , so has anyone tired to add GPU blocks to it ? I am at the verge of ordering them and It would be great if i can add on 2 GPU blocks to the
> Glacers loop so it will be CPU> GPU1 > GPU2 > radiator
> would it work or is that amount of heat to much ? Im running a MSI lighting 7970 OC to 1150 mHZ and a XFX 7970 black edition at 1150mhz too they are 70% of the time Mining for litecoins ( computer is On 24/7 ) and I pause the mining when im back to play games etc


What CPU and dual GPU will you run? A single 240 rad in a P280 might not enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> That's going to tax a 240L with it's 120x2 rad. CPU plus 2 gpu's should have a 120x3 rad. That much loop may be too much for the 240l pump to maintain 0.7-1.5gpm. This site can give you a idea on how adding to the loop effects flow rates and pressure.


240L/H220 pump can run 2x 360 rad + cpu + 2x GPU without an issue.


----------



## fasterhoads

Is there an installation guide for the impeller install?

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fasterhoads*
> 
> Is there an installation guide for the impeller install?
> 
> Thanks


LordNikkon posted a video a while back. However, we suggest that you contact us directly before attempting it because opening your pump to do this without our direct involvement will void your warranty. Just PM me if you're planning on doing this.


----------



## fasterhoads

Will do thanks.

I have had the new impeller for a while, just no time to get it installed.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

-_- man im very VERY disappointed in the h220.... I went from a H100i to this.... The pump noise is unbearable, it's louder than all my fans. I am a quiet enthusiast and to get results like this is very disappointing... Temps are fine, the sound is insane tho. I have a z87-Pro and can't even adjust my pump speed because it has presets i can't go under.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> -_- man im very VERY disappointed in the h220.... I went from a H100i to this.... The pump noise is unbearable, it's louder than all my fans. I am a quiet enthusiast and to get results like this is very disappointing... Temps are fine, the sound is insane tho. I have a z87-Pro and can't even adjust my pump speed because it has presets i can't go under.


Which means you have the pump not in the correct header.
it must be on the PWM CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT. Those 2 are link and only PWM, rest of the headers are not.
Try using the splitter to power the pump and PWM fans.
Use Speedfan to adjust the pump speed.

As for the noise what is the pump at? If you just open it the box and installed it. it takes a few hours or a day to get rid of the bubbles, as the unit was moving around.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Ok cool , so has anyone tired to add GPU blocks to it ? I am at the verge of ordering them and It would be great if i can add on 2 GPU blocks to the
> Glacers loop so it will be CPU> GPU1 > GPU2 > radiator
> would it work or is that amount of heat to much ? Im running a MSI lighting 7970 OC to 1150 mHZ and a XFX 7970 black edition at 1150mhz too they are 70% of the time Mining for litecoins ( computer is On 24/7 ) and I pause the mining when im back to play games etc
> 
> 
> 
> That's going to tax a 240L with it's 120x2 rad. CPU plus 2 gpu's should have a 120x3 rad. That much loop may be too much for the 240l pump to maintain 0.7-1.5gpm. This site can give you a idea on how adding to the loop effects flow rates and pressure.
Click to expand...

ill disagree with one thing, 120x3? basic idea is 120+1 for each of your components, for me i like the look of thick rads and i like to have 2x120 MIN per components ( mobo ram ect need not be counted in either ) but that is just personal preference, when i finally get my tx10-d ill have 3x120 per component just because i can !~ 1


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With barb clamps the OD is all you need to worry about. The clamps go over the outer diameter of the tubing so the inner diameter really doesn't make any difference.


Cool I thought that might be the case just didnt want to take a chance, regardless I got some nice lookin clamps just paid a little more.


----------



## nobilRAUL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which means you have the pump not in the correct header.
> it must be on the PWM CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT. Those 2 are link and only PWM, rest of the headers are not.
> Try using the splitter to power the pump and PWM fans.
> Use Speedfan to adjust the pump speed.
> 
> As for the noise what is the pump at? If you just open it the box and installed it. it takes a few hours or a day to get rid of the bubbles, as the unit was moving around.


can i adjust the pump speed with a lamptron fc5 ?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nobilRAUL*
> 
> can i adjust the pump speed with a lamptron fc5 ?


You need a PWM control for the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You need a PWM control for the pump.


This is correct. Those Lamptron fan controllers use voltage control so it won't work.


----------



## Presence

These are some noob questions, but this thread seems to be the most popular when I Google the H220. The H220 is for my 2nd build and I've never dealt with fan controllers or radiators before.

Which direction should the fans be facing, up or down?

I have a MSI GD65 mobo with a Define R4 case, if I connect the two case fans to the H220's fan controller, will I be able to adjust the speed?


----------



## M3TAl

Technically it's not a fan controller, it's a PWM(pulse width modulation) splitter. Only 4pin PWM fans will be controlled by the PWM signal from the motherboard using the provided splitter.

You can have the fans on the radiator set in whichever way you want. It's really up to you. Typically intake on the rad will be lower CPU temps but higher case temps. Exhaust will be higher CPU temps vs intake but lower case temps.


----------



## Presence

Thank you sir


----------



## 66racer

Well thought I would share an update as to my adventures with the h220 so far. Same TIM was used in both arrangements, basically long story short I took the 180mm rad out of the cpu/gpu loop and left only the 240mm in and only saw an increase of 2c overall....more details below.

My loop consisted of (system specs below on 2014 nerd box evo):
(gaming setup)
swiftech microres>h220 pump/cpu 100% speed>ek universal gpu block>h220 240mm rad with corsair sp120 pwm fans in push 100% speed>magicool 180mm radiator p/p ap181 fans low switch>back to res

gaming on bf4 mulitplayer is my test bench since its the most stress i use the system on. GPU would max at 41c and cpu max about 57-59c depending on map, VERY happy with gpu results especially since im 10c cooler than when I had an h70 on the gpu.

*Took out the 180mm radiator to see the limits of the h220 240mm radiator:*

swiftech microres>h220 pump/cpu 100% speed>ek universal gpu block>h220 240mm rad with corsair sp120 pwm fans in push 100% speed>back to res

Using only the results I have with the same ambient temps I had with the 180mm in the loop, temps only seemed to have gone up 2c across the board. Many maps the gpu will still only peak at 42c but sometimes 43c compared to 41c consistently with the 180mm. CPU seems to be about 1-2c warmer as well peaking 60c over 58c being the normal peak, but once or twice maybe on intense maps I have gotten 59c with the 180mm in the loop.

*Also stock fans vs corsair sp120's* didnt make any recorded difference in temps, thats ok though I mostly wanted them for the black fan blades to match my setup, they are VERY VERY silent at 50% though, start making slight noise at 60% and get what some people call loud probably at 70% and higher. The nice thing is they DO NOT produce a high pitch noise even at 100%, more of a lower pitch sound so its very bearable and gets drowned out from the speakers while gaming. I dont even have the sound very loud either since I like in an triplex unit, dont want to upset neighmores
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> -_- man im very VERY disappointed in the h220.... I went from a H100i to this.... The pump noise is unbearable, it's louder than all my fans. I am a quiet enthusiast and to get results like this is very disappointing... Temps are fine, the sound is insane tho. I have a z87-Pro and can't even adjust my pump speed because it has presets i can't go under.


Well if your at 100% like it sounds, yes it will be too loud for what your going after, luckily all you need to do is figure out what you did wrong. Likely like another member mentioned, you need to use it on a pwm fan header like the cpu. Your rig is outdated but think that mobo you mentioned is an asus right? ONLY the cpu header is pwm on an asus even though they are all 4 pin. When you dont use a true pwm header with the splitter the pump and anything connected will just get the full voltage/100% speed regardless of what the speed it set to on the mobo or fan software.

Hope that helped. At speeds up to 50% on asus software or 2000rpm I find it to have very acceptable sound levels for normal rooms, in a stone silent environment at 2000rpm there is some pump noise but very low. The fans on my case are louder than the pump at that speed and thats on a test bench too.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well thought I would share an update as to my adventures with the h220 so far. Same TIM was used in both arrangements, basically long story short I took the 180mm rad out of the cpu/gpu loop and left only the 240mm in and only saw an increase of 2c overall....more details below.
> 
> My loop consisted of (system specs below on 2014 nerd box evo):
> (gaming setup)
> swiftech microres>h220 pump/cpu 100% speed>ek universal gpu block>h220 240mm rad with corsair sp120 pwm fans in push 100% speed>magicool 180mm radiator p/p ap181 fans low switch>back to res
> 
> gaming on bf4 mulitplayer is my test bench since its the most stress i use the system on. GPU would max at 41c and cpu max about 57-59c depending on map, VERY happy with gpu results especially since im 10c cooler than when I had an h70 on the gpu.
> 
> *Took out the 180mm radiator to see the limits of the h220 240mm radiator:*
> 
> swiftech microres>h220 pump/cpu 100% speed>ek universal gpu block>h220 240mm rad with corsair sp120 pwm fans in push 100% speed>back to res
> 
> Using only the results I have with the same ambient temps I had with the 180mm in the loop, temps only seemed to have gone up 2c across the board. Many maps the gpu will still only peak at 42c but sometimes 43c compared to 41c consistently with the 180mm. CPU seems to be about 1-2c warmer as well peaking 60c over 58c being the normal peak, but once or twice maybe on intense maps I have gotten 59c with the 180mm in the loop.
> 
> *Also stock fans vs corsair sp120's* didnt make any recorded difference in temps, thats ok though I mostly wanted them for the black fan blades to match my setup, they are VERY VERY silent at 50% though, start making slight noise at 60% and get what some people call loud probably at 70% and higher. The nice thing is they DO NOT produce a high pitch noise even at 100%, more of a lower pitch sound so its very bearable and gets drowned out from the speakers while gaming. I dont even have the sound very loud either since I like in an triplex unit, dont want to upset neighmores
> Well if your at 100% like it sounds, yes it will be too loud for what your going after, luckily all you need to do is figure out what you did wrong. Likely like another member mentioned, you need to use it on a pwm fan header like the cpu. Your rig is outdated but think that mobo you mentioned is an asus right? ONLY the cpu header is pwm on an asus even though they are all 4 pin. When you dont use a true pwm header with the splitter the pump and anything connected will just get the full voltage/100% speed regardless of what the speed it set to on the mobo or fan software.
> 
> Hope that helped. At speeds up to 50% on asus software or 2000rpm I find it to have very acceptable sound levels for normal rooms, in a stone silent environment at 2000rpm there is some pump noise but very low. The fans on my case are louder than the pump at that speed and thats on a test bench too.


Yeah i finally got it figured out... I got ALL my fans quiet, my pump is decently quiet, all in all im very satisfied now. My new i7 Build looks great aswell. Just finished the final touches in cable management =). Feedback welcome!


----------



## 66racer

Will-

Looks good


----------



## BrotherJoseph

So the replacement pump I've had for a few months is not controllable via PWM, it runs at 100% at around 3200RPM. It is on the splitter with my fans, the fan speeds will change but not the pump.
Just wondering if anyone has some tips on possibly getting PWM to work on the pump?
I have had it running this way for a long time, I just didn't feel like getting another replacement at the time, so I just haven't dealt with it until now.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> So the replacement pump I've had for a few months is not controllable via PWM, it runs at 100% at around 3200RPM. It is on the splitter with my fans, the fan speeds will change but not the pump.
> Just wondering if anyone has some tips on possibly getting PWM to work on the pump?
> I have had it running this way for a long time, I just didn't feel like getting another replacement at the time, so I just haven't dealt with it until now.


Wondering if there is a break at the pwm signal wire? Maybe check the pins at the connector to make sure they are all ok and seem to make good contact, otherwise its gonna need replacement or you will likely void warranty if you find the break and fix it, that or its internal on the board I assume.


----------



## Mega Man

fyi 180mm fans are pretty much suck for rads, they dont do much good other then for looks ( the rad ) if you put a 120 or 240 in there you probably would see more of a drop. but you also have to remember diminishing returns the more rads you add the less the temps drop with each rad, builds like mine are more for looks but it does help with the extreme benching ( prior to phase and beyond )


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi 180mm fans are pretty much suck for rads, they dont do much good other then for looks ( the rad ) if you put a 120 or 240 in there you probably would see more of a drop. but you also have to remember diminishing returns the more rads you add the less the temps drop with each rad, builds like mine are more for looks but it does help with the extreme benching ( prior to phase and beyond )


The fin spacing on the magicool actually allowed for acceptable air flow with one fan, but I had it in push/pull as well, those fans move air, trust me


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi 180mm fans are pretty much suck for rads, they dont do much good other then for looks ( the rad ) if you put a 120 or 240 in there you probably would see more of a drop. but you also have to remember diminishing returns the more rads you add the less the temps drop with each rad, builds like mine are more for looks but it does help with the extreme benching ( prior to phase and beyond )
> 
> 
> 
> The fin spacing on the magicool actually allowed for acceptable air flow with one fan, but I had it in push/pull as well, those fans move air, trust me
Click to expand...

airflow (CFM) and static pressure are 2 different things, i have yet to see a fan greater then 140mm with any real rad use, not that they could not be out there, but i highly doubt you have a good one.

even in 140mm fans i have seen one with decent ratings !~


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> airflow (CFM) and static pressure are 2 different things, i have yet to see a fan greater then 140mm with any real rad use, not that they could not be out there, but i highly doubt you have a good one.
> 
> even in 140mm fans i have seen one with decent ratings !~


The ap181 is rated at 2.4hg at high speed, whats so bad about that? Dont get me wrong Im not an advocate for 180/200mm rads, personally prefer 240mm rads but when your watercooling a tj08e you dont have much options lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> airflow (CFM) and static pressure are 2 different things, i have yet to see a fan greater then 140mm with any real rad use, not that they could not be out there, but i highly doubt you have a good one.
> 
> even in 140mm fans i have seen one with decent ratings !~
> 
> 
> 
> The ap181 is rated at 2.4hg at high speed, whats so bad about that? Dont get me wrong Im not an advocate for 180/200mm rads, personally prefer 240mm rads but when your watercooling a tj08e you dont have much options lol
Click to expand...

rating does not mean anything ( and i like silverstone fans ) there is no such thing as a fan with 2.4hg static pressure.

static pressure and CFM are linked.

most companies measure fans without resistance and freestanding

to understand a fan you need a pq chart

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
which i can not seem to find


----------



## 66racer

Im not sure what your point is. Im just sharing info for anyone thats curious about how far the stock radiator can be pushed. All I know with AP181 fans in p/p on low, the magicool 180mm radiator removed from the loop raised temps 2c across the board. You seem to think all 180mm fans are garbage, thats ok, but temps are temps. I monitor my ambient room temps and keep my TIM the same, since multiplayer is a roll of the dice for consistency I get as much time as possible to verify the comparison.

When I would game with the 180mm on high, which I didnt find necessary, it dropped temps an additional 2c, so 4c is what the 180mm on high added to the loop would be worth. The real world numbers speak for themselves, specs or not.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure what your point is. Im just sharing info for anyone thats curious about how far the stock radiator can be pushed. All I know with AP181 fans in p/p on low, the magicool 180mm radiator removed from the loop raised temps 2c across the board. You seem to think all 180mm fans are garbage, thats ok, but temps are temps. I monitor my ambient room temps and keep my TIM the same, since multiplayer is a roll of the dice for consistency I get as much time as possible to verify the comparison.
> 
> When I would game with the 180mm on high, which I didnt find necessary, it dropped temps an additional 2c, so 4c is what the 180mm on high added to the loop would be worth. The real world numbers speak for themselves, specs or not.


and yet
i have an h220 on a chip

and i started my watercooling adventure on that chip with this kit
http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Edge-HD.aspx

i changed chips and have that one running on its former oc with the h220

the temps on both were near identical with similar fans

and on the kit on the bottom my temps decreased dramatically ( over 10c iirc ) when i expanded to another 240


----------



## Gil80

Hi all,

I need help with expending my swiftech H220 to the Gigabyte R9 290 GPU.

Can someone recommend for a water block and other accessories I might need?


----------



## sdmf74

Finally got around to opening up my H220 and incorporating my Kingpin. It's a rev.1 impellar and I had no problem removing air bubbles. Temps are good. Later Ill push some voltage through the card and see how the temps hold up.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Finally got around to opening up my H220 and incorporating my Kingpin. It's a rev.1 impellar and I had no problem removing air bubbles. Temps are good. Later Ill push some voltage through the card and see how the temps hold up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! I hope you make good use of the kingpins voltage with that block


----------



## delpy8

Hi all firstly I would like to thank the swiftech rma guys in France as I had a problem with my back plate on my h320 and today a new one arrived in the post








Also can anyone tell me if I can use the 8 way splitter from from the h320 be compatible with say six fans installed on the newer H20-320 HD edge


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi all firstly I would like to thank the swiftech rma guys in France as I had a problem with my back plate on my h320 and today a new one arrived in the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also can anyone tell me if I can use the 8 way splitter from from the h320 be compatible with say six fans installed on the newer H20-320 HD edge


if you want them to run at 100% sure. iirc they are 3 pin fans not pwm fans which means voltage control not pwm control


----------



## delpy8

Thanks for that I would probably use 6 of the swiftech h320 fans.


----------



## Nightingale

I was wondering is it ok to combined my H220 to a custom loop. I will essentially be having 2 pumps running together and my main pump is stronger than the swiftech. Below is an example of what I plan to do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I was wondering is it ok to combined my H220 to a custom loop. I will essentially be having 2 pumps running together and my main pump is stronger than the swiftech. Below is an example of what I plan to do.


There shouldn't be any problem with doing that. Having two pumps that run at different speeds really won't cause any issues. One will just enhance the flow and head pressure of the other. I would have the pump on the bottom though running first, until the loop is filled and then start the pump for the H220. That way you won't have any issues with priming it because the pump on the H220 can be difficult to prime in an expanded loop.


----------



## Nightingale

Ahh so fill then run the loop with the H220 pump turned off first, then turn it on afterwards.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Ahh so fill then run the loop with the H220 pump turned off first, then turn it on afterwards.


Exactly.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I was wondering is it ok to combined my H220 to a custom loop. I will essentially be having 2 pumps running together and my main pump is stronger than the swiftech. Below is an example of what I plan to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Question:

why not just go 360 rad up top and 240 bottom? Less fitting/tubing to deal with, nomsayin'?

Smart move not relying entirely on that H220 pump btw.


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Question:
> 
> why not just go 360 rad up top and 240 bottom? Less fitting/tubing to deal with, nomsayin'?
> 
> Smart move not relying entirely on that H220 pump btw.


I bought the H220 and was instantly hooked on water. I then came across a deal for a swiftech 240mm rad + Thermochill Ultra thick 120mm rad + Apogee GT and a decent Pump for cheaper than the h220.

Ideally I would have just gotten a quad rad.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*


If we were youcells, we would change the tubing route so that not all cooled components are behind of each other and all the radiators serial after them:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> If we were youcells, we would change the tubing route so that not all cooled components are behind of each other and all the radiators serial after them:


It makes no difference how the components are ordered in the loop. Due to the speed of the coolant moving through the loop the coolant temperature increases after revolutions through the loop and not from one component to the next. Just make sure that you take the shortest path between components for the cleanest look and that your main pump is gravity fed by your reservoir.


----------



## Mark the Bold

Hello Swiftech,

I did as much research on my H220 soon to arrive in the mail. However, short of reading all 927 pages, I am just a bit concerned with the plasticizer problem (?).

Am I better off replacing the tubing / fluid from the get go? I don't mind doing a little extra work at the beginning to prevent a disaster down the line.

I've already bought the product, so I'm locked in. Is this plasticizer problem a rare issue? Or is it just a matter of time?

Anyway, I would prefer a very frank and honest answer from the OCN community! Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> Hello Swiftech,
> 
> I did as much research on my H220 soon to arrive in the mail. However, short of reading all 927 pages, I am just a bit concerned with the plasticizer problem (?).
> 
> Am I better off replacing the tubing / fluid from the get go? I don't mind doing a little extra work at the beginning to prevent a disaster down the line.
> 
> I've already bought the product, so I'm locked in. Is this plasticizer problem a rare issue? Or is it just a matter of time?
> 
> Anyway, I would prefer a very frank and honest answer from the OCN community! Thanks!


almost all flexible tubing leaches plastisizer


----------



## Mark the Bold

so this is par for the course for a month or so of use? I find that hard to believe that tubes leach that much...


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> 
> 
> so this is par for the course for a month or so of use? I find that hard to believe that tubes leach that much...


When I took mine apart I had more than that in there. Suffered from terrible temps and air bubbles. Now my temps are great and no air bubbles.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> When I took mine apart I had more than that in there. Suffered from terrible temps and air bubbles. Now my temps are great and no air bubbles.


Does that a mean a defective pump for the H220?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Does that a mean a defective pump for the H220?


Not sure if I follow. My pump seems to be working fine. BramSLI1 said the plastisizer buildup shouldn't have an affect on the pump. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure the H220 and H320 have the same pump.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Not sure if I follow. My pump seems to be working fine. BramSLI1 said the plastisizer buildup shouldn't have an affect on the pump. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure the H220 and H320 have the same pump.


I mean, just for one month and you have that sign of wear and tear already? Am I interpreting your picture correctly?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I mean, just for one month and you have that sign of wear and tear already? Am I interpreting your picture correctly?


"Mark the Bold" posted that picture, not me. I had mine running for months before I had this issue.


----------



## ironfall96

I recently just bought an H220 about 3 weeks ago. Everything has been working fine, keeping idle temps around 30c. Yesterday my PC randomly shut off, and could not boot. It would get to the windows loading screen and shut off. After trouble shooting, and finally being able to get to the desktop, i saw my PC was idling at 90c.

My fear is that the pump has failed. I have had the pump + 2 fans hooked up to the fan splitter provided. Earlier yesterday before it broke, I noticed one of the tubes was very hot, while the other tube was cool. After it broke, but tubes have been cool. The pump doesn't make nearly as much noise as it did (if its even working)

I bought the unit from us.ncix.com. I noticed on there website they say they don't sell these in the US, although I was somehow able to get one through ncix. Will this hurt me when trying to RMA it to swiftech? Also how well does swiftech handle RMAs? Am I going to be waiting weeks to get a new product? (If i'm even able to get a replacement)

Any help would be appreciated, I read through about 50 pages of this thread but I cannot read through over 900.

I'm running an old system:

core 2 quad q6660
ABIT p-35 pro
8800gts


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironfall96*
> 
> I recently just bought an H220 about 3 weeks ago. Everything has been working fine, keeping idle temps around 30c. Yesterday my PC randomly shut off, and could not boot. It would get to the windows loading screen and shut off. After trouble shooting, and finally being able to get to the desktop, i saw my PC was idling at 90c.
> 
> My fear is that the pump has failed. I have had the pump + 2 fans hooked up to the fan splitter provided. Earlier yesterday before it broke, I noticed one of the tubes was very hot, while the other tube was cool. After it broke, but tubes have been cool. The pump doesn't make nearly as much noise as it did (if its even working)
> 
> I bought the unit from us.ncix.com. I noticed on there website they say they don't sell these in the US, although I was somehow able to get one through ncix. Will this hurt me when trying to RMA it to swiftech? Also how well does swiftech handle RMAs? Am I going to be waiting weeks to get a new product? (If i'm even able to get a replacement)
> 
> Any help would be appreciated, I read through about 50 pages of this thread but I cannot read through over 900.
> 
> I'm running an old system:
> 
> core 2 quad q6660
> ABIT p-35 pro
> 8800gts


are the fans still running?. best case scenario, your situation was like mines about 1 month after my purchase, had an air bubble in the pump preventing any water movement. run the unit either on its side or so that the pump is at the lowest point in the build so that the liquid is fed through the pump through gravity first.(I dont know where you placed your rad, because you gave no information whatso)


----------



## Mark the Bold

double post


----------



## ironfall96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> are the fans still running?. best case scenario, your situation was like mines about 1 month after my purchase, had an air bubble in the pump preventing any water movement. run the unit either on its side or so that the pump is at the lowest point in the build so that the liquid is fed through the pump through gravity first.(I dont know where you placed your rad, because you gave no information whatso)


The fans are still running.

I never though about an air bubble. I actually have the rad sitting outside on top of my case. I didn't do much research and the h220 will not fit in my case. Since its been so cold in illinois, when I got my unit the liquid inside was frozen. it didn't sit out on my front porch, but i figure sitting on the UPS truck all day made it freeze. I let it sit for a while before I installed it, but that could have definitely be a problem.

I'll move the rad to a lower position. Is there anything else to know to try and get rid of air bubbles?


----------



## Mark the Bold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> When I took mine apart I had more than that in there. Suffered from terrible temps and air bubbles. Now my temps are great and no air bubbles.


So what did you do to fix the problem? Did you replace the tubes, or just give it a good cleaning? Please let me know specifics. Please and thank you.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So what did you do to fix the problem? Did you replace the tubes, or just give it a good cleaning? Please let me know specifics. Please and thank you.


I did end up buying new tubing since I wanted a change in color. A while back I cleaned out the tubing using a shish kabob stick and taped a cotton ball on the end of it, then shoved it through. Then rinse it out with distilled water. Also it's good idea to clean out the radiator to. I cleaned out mine and there was a bunch of plastizer in it. To clean the rad I took 4 parts distilled water, 1 part distilled white vinegar and ran it through the rad until I couldn't see any plastizer particles anymore (empty it into a bowl so you can what's coming out). Then run just distilled water through it a bunch of times to wash out any vinegar that is still in there. It's a good idea to vigorously shake the rad around with the distilled water in there so you can wash the vinegar out (Don't want to let vinegar sit in there).

Hope this helps!


----------



## Mark the Bold

^^
Thanks a bunch. Any advice on the tubing / replacement fluid to get? I'm pretty new to this scene.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> ^^
> Thanks a bunch. Any advice on the tubing / replacement fluid to get? I'm pretty new to this scene.


I went with Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing. For the size you need 3/8"ID x 5/8"OD


----------



## Dudewitbow

for fluids, run plain distilled water. cheapest for quantity(any large store that sells food will sell distilled water) and effective. And you have stocks of water in case of having the need to top something off.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> for fluids, run plain distilled water. cheapest for quantity(any large store that sells food will sell distilled water) and effective. And you have stocks of water in case of having the need to top something off.


please dont *just* do this. you will have a living zoo in your pc, you also need a biocide some use silver which i do not see as possible unless you use a silver plug ( port cover )

personally i prefer copper sulfate

either PT nuke or iandh deadwater

if going pt nuke i recommend the blue one not the clear ( PTnuke PHN ) the reason is it is a chlorine product, although the levels are minimal i do not like something that eats rubber in my loop, which chlorine does

some like it, this is all personal preference,

however unless you want a biology experiment in your pc, please note that you always want a biocide of some form


----------



## Mark the Bold

So with the gift of all your hindsight / knowledge, I should do this before even installing this thing to be safe? Anybody got any extra tubing they want to sell? I really don't need the full 10ft package of primoflex. In fact 2ft would be overkill.... Appreciate the feedback.

So my shopping list is:

Primoflex 1/2" 5/8" OD 2ft
Distilled Water + Colloidal Silver Additive
Some hose clamps (?)
Vineger solution to clean out the stock plasticizer junk

I'm reading as much as I can about the water cooling basics, but you guys have been really responsive and awesome so I'm taking your word as gospel on this....


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So with the gift of all your hindsight / knowledge, I should do this before even installing this thing to be safe? Anybody got any extra tubing they want to sell? I really don't need the full 10ft package of primoflex. In fact 2ft would be overkill.... Appreciate the feedback.
> 
> I'm reading as much as I can about the water cooling basics, but you guys have been really responsive and awesome so I'm taking your word as gospel on this....


You can buy it by the foot.

EDIT: I found this site to be the cheapest with shipping (depending where you live)
http://www.xoxide.com/wacotu.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So with the gift of all your hindsight / knowledge, I should do this before even installing this thing to be safe? Anybody got any extra tubing they want to sell? I really don't need the full 10ft package of primoflex. In fact 2ft would be overkill.... Appreciate the feedback.
> 
> So my shopping list is:
> 
> Primoflex 1/2" 5/8" OD 2ft
> Distilled Water + Colloidal Silver Additive
> Some hose clamps (?)
> Vineger solution to clean out the stock plasticizer junk
> 
> I'm reading as much as I can about the water cooling basics, but you guys have been really responsive and awesome so I'm taking your word as gospel on this....


dont take our word for it but

here read this, everything in MISC is a huge help ( except the first one "danger den..." as it is not about watercooling and just a review )

http://martinsliquidlab.org/

i would not do it if you dont need to, unless you are dead set on it, it should be fine and if not you will see when you need to worry about it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So with the gift of all your hindsight / knowledge, I should do this before even installing this thing to be safe? Anybody got any extra tubing they want to sell? I really don't need the full 10ft package of primoflex. In fact 2ft would be overkill.... Appreciate the feedback.
> 
> I'm reading as much as I can about the water cooling basics, but you guys have been really responsive and awesome so I'm taking your word as gospel on this....
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy it by the foot.
> 
> EDIT: I found this site to be the cheapest with shipping (depending where you live)
> http://www.xoxide.com/wacotu.html
Click to expand...

also you can buy some tubing ( i always go for 1/2x3/4 so i dont know if they have this size or not sorry ) @ home depot for ~ $8 but it does cloud quick but i never have had any issues


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please dont *just* do this. you will have a living zoo in your pc, you also need a biocide some use silver which i do not see as possible unless you use a silver plug ( port cover )
> 
> personally i prefer copper sulfate
> 
> either PT nuke or iandh deadwater
> 
> if going pt nuke i recommend the blue one not the clear ( PTnuke PHN ) the reason is it is a chlorine product, although the levels are minimal i do not like something that eats rubber in my loop, which chlorine does
> 
> some like it, this is all personal preference,
> 
> however unless you want a biology experiment in your pc, please note that you always want a biocide of some form


I never mentioned silver as my h220 radiator is at the bottom of my loop where I replaced the plug cap with a Monsoon Silver Bullet, so I generally forget to mention it


----------



## Mega Man

np i just didnt want him to have an issue !


----------



## MadGoat

My vote is Norprene for tubing.

On another note, new res... Guess I got too beasty with the last one...


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> My vote is Norprene for tubing.
> 
> On another note, new res... Guess I got too beasty with the last one...


First off, ide like to say your computer looks flawless!

second, i have LED white Strip. How can i make the lighting look awesome? I have a fractal R4 and i feel like i don't get the lighting effect most people do, no matter where i position it.... ugh

PS: The video card looks ugly because its my replacement graphics card. My 660 GTX has a black backside and is in the process for RMA lol. But yeah look at my lighting compared to urs


----------



## Dudewitbow

he has dual lighting(top and bottom) as well as picture wise, yours has visible LED placements which looks alot closer to the panel than his. I would think to get rid of the effect, have some kind of material blocking the panel side of the led, so that it only shines straight down and inwards rather than in all directions. It may be a case difference issue as well, But I believe its mostly slight variances in placement


----------



## RnRollie

you need to diffuse the light a bit.. putting the strip into a matte or opaque tubing might help
even using some mosquito gauze might work


----------



## Tamber

Hi there,
I just ordered a CM Glacer 240L and was wondering if I should use the stock fans or would my Sickleflow R4's be sufficient? I would like to keep my red theme.


----------



## Mega Man

they are decent enough fans, there are better ones out there, but they work well enough


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Is 93C max temp on a 4.6ghz 1.295V 4770k normal? I feel like those temps are horrible. and im also in a cool room, maybe around 70F or 65F.....


----------



## Mega Man

idk if it is normal but i think you should not go above 80c on these chips

i could be wrong


----------



## skillzdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Is 93C max temp on a 4.6ghz 1.295V 4770k normal? I feel like those temps are horrible. and im also in a cool room, maybe around 70F or 65F.....


Look - 95 is an ok temp, but you really want to avoid anything above that. Haswell especially is resilient to high temps, like Ivy Bridge, possibly even more so. However, 1.3 V @ 93*C seems a little high, but nothing to worry about. If you really want to go higher on your OC you may want to consider reseating your cpu block as it may not have a great seating. But to sum up, 93 is fine but avoid anything above







Just $0.02.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Is 93C max temp on a 4.6ghz 1.295V 4770k normal? I feel like those temps are horrible. and im also in a cool room, maybe around 70F or 65F.....


Thats why people delid their ivy and haswell cpu's. Its kinda why I have been forcing myself to avoid upgrading till another generation. This cooler is deffinetly premium, the only thing you can try is using another type of thermal paste, I love shin etsu x23-7783D. Or maybe you didnt do an ideal job of spreading the paste when you installed the cooler.

BUT like I said, ivy and haswel from what I have read in the forums stays stone cold till a certain voltage is reached then temps sky rocket, thats when people delid and see 10c drops in temps.

My only experience with ivy was on a 3570k at launch (coming from a 2500k) and since temps were hard to manage at 4.8ghz, decided to just get a 2700k and have been happy since. I do want to get a new cpu to overclock but I know I will feel forced to delid and dont want to risk it right now lol


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skillzdude*
> 
> Look - 95 is an ok temp, but you really want to avoid anything above that. Haswell especially is resilient to high temps, like Ivy Bridge, possibly even more so. However, 1.3 V @ 93*C seems a little high, but nothing to worry about. If you really want to go higher on your OC you may want to consider reseating your cpu block as it may not have a great seating. But to sum up, 93 is fine but avoid anything above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just $0.02.


But i reseated 3 times.. 2 times with artic silver 5 and 1 with mx-3. Do i have a hot chip? Or is my cooler bad


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Okay so i found something out....

When i run Intel Burn Test V2 i get around 90-92C after around like 10 passes on high and standard....

When i run Prime 95 2.511 i get 70C on my hottest core and this is like 40 minutes in.

What do i generally go by? Prime95 or IBT? When i run cinebench i get 68C on my hottest core aswell. is IBT a over stressed test? and something to not follow by, maybe just to test stability?


----------



## Mega Man

use both


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> use both


But is IBT V2 the one i should use for 4770k? and how come it's such a drastic difference


----------



## Mega Man

if you mean ibtavx, yes


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you mean ibtavx, yes


When i download IBT IVX it gives me an error when i try to run it. But when i run normal IBT it runs fine. And when i mean an error on IBT AVX i mean it doesn't even let me stress the cpu because of it.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> When i download IBT IVX it gives me an error when i try to run it. But when i run normal IBT it runs fine. And when i mean an error on IBT AVX i mean it doesn't even let me stress the cpu because of it.


I would be careful using Intel Burn Test, It does typically burn your cpu hotter than anything else. I just use Prime95 and never let it exceed 85c during stress testing. I am sure everyone has their own method but I choose to do things this way to be safe.









Does anyone know If their is a definitive release date for the Swiftech MCP50X Yet?


----------



## X-Alt

IBT AVX needs Service Pack 1. Its safe TBH, just don't go past the 80C range..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> When i download IBT IVX it gives me an error when i try to run it. But when i run normal IBT it runs fine. And when i mean an error on IBT AVX i mean it doesn't even let me stress the cpu because of it.
> 
> 
> 
> I would be careful using Intel Burn Test, It does typically burn your cpu hotter than anything else. I just use Prime95 and never let it exceed 85c during stress testing. I am sure everyone has their own method but I choose to do things this way to be safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know If their is a definitive release date for the Swiftech MCP50X Yet?
Click to expand...

last i heard march-apr


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> IBT AVX needs Service Pack 1. Its safe TBH, just don't go past the 80C range..


I have SP1 but it still doesn't work with IBT AVX, i feel like IBT is TOO much HEAT on the cpu. Not too much load, just WAY too much heat because the voltage increase. I think it's useless to be honest. Prime95 seems more reasonable because it stresses the cpu load, not the voltage.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> I have SP1 but it still doesn't work with IBT AVX, i feel like IBT is TOO much HEAT on the cpu. Not too much load, just WAY too much heat because the voltage increase. I think it's useless to be honest. Prime95 seems more reasonable because it stresses the cpu load, not the voltage.


Install the hotfix then..


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Install the hotfix then..


I thought the hotfix was only for the AMD 8core? WHen i try to run it on my 4770k i get a error. Can you link me the Hotfix link? maybe i got a bad one.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> I thought the hotfix was only for the AMD 8core? WHen i try to run it on my 4770k i get a error. Can you link me the Hotfix link? maybe i got a bad one.


Ah you moved to Intel, reinstall Windows TBH..


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Ah you moved to Intel, reinstall Windows TBH..


Yeah i switched over ;(, it's good and all but i feel like i had more fun fine tunning my AMD cpu, Intel is just ugh, ugly lol.

And this is a fresh windows install, but i guess ill just keep it like this, oh well :/


----------



## dogdoc1871

Hi all,

Been spending the last couple of days researching/pondering an AIO cooling solution for my new rig. I'm currently running a Coolermaster tpc 812, and I've done some mild (very mild by the standards here) overclocking up to 4.2Ghz. Started out looking at the offerings from NZXT, Corsair, and CM, then found out that the Swiftechs were the bomb. Then further research told me you can no longer get them in the US. Next step tells me you can, but they are now the CM Glacer.

So, my question for you guys..... Would I notice a substantial performance increase stepping up from the 812 to the Glacer? I typically don't hear my cooler now unless I'm running stress tests and the fan ramps up, but I'm also concerned about noise.

Also, how easy is the installation of the Glacer into a CM Storm Trooper? MB installation looks easy, I'm more concerned about the rad/case install.

Thanks.


----------



## michael-ocn

I really don't know, but looking at a review...

http://www.legitreviews.com/cooler-master-tpc-812-cpu-cooler-review_1913/6

... looks like you can get more overclocking headroom with a decent liquid cooler. Although, I wonder what adding a 2nd fan to the CM 812 would do?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dogdoc1871*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been spending the last couple of days researching/pondering an AIO cooling solution for my new rig. I'm currently running a Coolermaster tpc 812, and I've done some mild (very mild by the standards here) overclocking up to 4.2Ghz. Started out looking at the offerings from NZXT, Corsair, and CM, then found out that the Swiftechs were the bomb. Then further research told me you can no longer get them in the US. Next step tells me you can, but they are now the CM Glacer.
> 
> So, my question for you guys..... Would I notice a substantial performance increase stepping up from the 812 to the Glacer? I typically don't hear my cooler now unless I'm running stress tests and the fan ramps up, but I'm also concerned about noise.
> 
> Also, how easy is the installation of the Glacer into a CM Storm Trooper? MB installation looks easy, I'm more concerned about the rad/case install.
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Yeah i switched over ;(, it's good and all but i feel like i had more fun fine tunning my AMD cpu, Intel is just ugh, ugly lol.
> 
> And this is a fresh windows install, but i guess ill just keep it like this, oh well :/


I honestly enjoyed overclocking on amd more than intel, intel at least with sandy and ivy was set the multiplier and go. I really liked all the other settings you can play with on amd. Been so split as to my next build, wanting matx kinda forces me to stick with intel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dogdoc1871*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been spending the last couple of days researching/pondering an AIO cooling solution for my new rig. I'm currently running a Coolermaster tpc 812, and I've done some mild (very mild by the standards here) overclocking up to 4.2Ghz. Started out looking at the offerings from NZXT, Corsair, and CM, then found out that the Swiftechs were the bomb. Then further research told me you can no longer get them in the US. Next step tells me you can, but they are now the CM Glacer.
> 
> So, my question for you guys..... Would I notice a substantial performance increase stepping up from the 812 to the Glacer? I typically don't hear my cooler now unless I'm running stress tests and the fan ramps up, but I'm also concerned about noise.
> 
> Also, how easy is the installation of the Glacer into a CM Storm Trooper? MB installation looks easy, I'm more concerned about the rad/case install.
> 
> Thanks.


Im sure you will see temperatures go down, but unless you plan on going for more than 4.4ghz, you may not need the extra cooling. If you want a mindless aio, stick to corsair or similar, but if you like the flexibility the switech h220 (and cm240L) offers, go for it. Keep in mind there may be some tuning or fidling with the swiftech/cm cooler but its worth it.

You can still get the swiftech version in the usa but its sold through ncix usa, possibly since their HQ is in Canada they can do it. I got mine maybe 2 months ago from them and have my video card in the loop now. Its a great cooler.

Currently $100
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=79583&vpn=H220&manufacture=Swiftech&promoid=1413


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Ah you moved to Intel, reinstall Windows TBH..
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i switched over ;(, it's good and all but i feel like i had more fun fine tunning my AMD cpu, Intel is just ugh, ugly lol.
> 
> And this is a fresh windows install, but i guess ill just keep it like this, oh well :/
Click to expand...

you still should not have any issues i use it on my 3930k as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dogdoc1871*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been spending the last couple of days researching/pondering an AIO cooling solution for my new rig. I'm currently running a Coolermaster tpc 812, and I've done some mild (very mild by the standards here) overclocking up to 4.2Ghz. Started out looking at the offerings from NZXT, Corsair, and CM, then found out that the Swiftechs were the bomb. Then further research told me you can no longer get them in the US. Next step tells me you can, but they are now the CM Glacer.
> 
> So, my question for you guys..... Would I notice a substantial performance increase stepping up from the 812 to the Glacer? I typically don't hear my cooler now unless I'm running stress tests and the fan ramps up, but I'm also concerned about noise.
> 
> Also, how easy is the installation of the Glacer into a CM Storm Trooper? MB installation looks easy, I'm more concerned about the rad/case install.
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dogdoc1871*
> 
> Im sure you will see temperatures go down, but unless you plan on going for more than 4.4ghz, you may not need the extra cooling. If you want a mindless aio, stick to corsair or similar, but if you like the flexibility the switech h220 (and cm240L) offers, go for it. Keep in mind there may be some tuning or fidling with the swiftech/cm cooler but its worth it.
> 
> You can still get the swiftech version in the usa but its sold through ncix usa, possibly since their HQ is in Canada they can do it. I got mine maybe 2 months ago from them and have my video card in the loop now. Its a great cooler.
> 
> Currently $100
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=79583&vpn=H220&manufacture=Swiftech&promoid=1413
> 
> 
> 
> all true but i would personally wait for the h220x !
> 
> as for the install it is cake, i have my h220 in my wifes stryker. top mounted and it works really well !
Click to expand...


----------



## Gil80

Hi,

Can anyone help me with expending the H220 to my GPU as well?

I'm running R9 290 Gigabyte


----------



## pat102ko

I recently tried expanding the kit and its not too bad. Unfortunately, I had the pump die while doing it so I needed to get a new one. (Mind you, it was not because I expanded it that it died. Purely Coincidental). You need to get a R9 block , some tubing, distilled water, and some anti-growth drops for the water. Make sure that when you expand it that the rad feeds the pump via the inlet slot on the pump (it has it etched into the side) and that the rad is above the pump. I did my roomates yesterday and the only issue we had was it took a while to get rid of the air bubbles. Just some shaking and time. Other than that its not that hard.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pat102ko*
> 
> I recently tried expanding the kit and its not too bad. Unfortunately, I had the pump die while doing it so I needed to get a new one. (Mind you, it was not because I expanded it that it died. Purely Coincidental). You need to get a R9 block , some tubing, distilled water, and some anti-growth drops for the water. Make sure that when you expand it that the rad feeds the pump via the inlet slot on the pump (it has it etched into the side) and that the rad is above the pump. I did my roomates yesterday and the only issue we had was it took a while to get rid of the air bubbles. Just some shaking and time. Other than that its not that hard.


Hi mate, thanks for the reply.

I usually buy my PC parts from www.pccasegear.com and I looked at the GPU cooling and I think that they only have the reference GPU water block design.
This is the page: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_878_880_1505
Is there anything in here that will suite my GPU?


----------



## pat102ko

If it is the reference card, then this should help: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1231

Ek should have something to help ya out. Just type into the configurator and it will show you which ones are compatible. I believe all the 290 ones should work but dont take my word for that.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pat102ko*
> 
> If it is the reference card, then this should help: http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=1231
> 
> Ek should have something to help ya out. Just type into the configurator and it will show you which ones are compatible. I believe all the 290 ones should work but dont take my word for that.


You got it wrong









The site shows only reference card GPU water block, whereas I have Gigabyte R9 290 BF4 edition GPU and I'm looking for a VGA water block for this card in Australia.


----------



## pat102ko

Not trying to argue but I'm pretty sure I'm right. Your card came bundled with bf4 did it not? The card itself should be a reference card and thus nearly any block should fit it. Ex. EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC R9-290X Acetal Nickel that one should fit it. Also I'm pretty sure that VGA blocks and gpu blocks are the exact same. If I'm wrong, Ill show myself out.


----------



## Gil80

Can anyone confirm what @pat102ko wrote?

I'd hate to buy the wrong GPU water block.


----------



## Mega Man

i will confirm it, what he wrote is correct, if it came with bf4 it is ref, unless there is a separate bundle in AU

and

if it has a blower and not fan it is 100% ref


----------



## Gil80

That's what I bought:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26485

So are you sure sure?


----------



## taylorpro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> That's what I bought:
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26485
> 
> So are you sure sure?


You have the Windforce version of the Gigabyte card. As long as the gpu block you choose supports that specific card, you're fine. Again, you can use the compatibility checker on EK's site for verification.

EDIT: As of right now, it doesnt look like EK offers a block for the windforce card at least. Could check some other manufacturers such as koolance, swiftech, etc.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorpro*
> 
> You have the Windforce version of the Gigabyte card. As long as the gpu block you choose supports that specific card, you're fine. Again, you can use the compatibility checker on EK's site for verification
> 
> EDIT: As of right now, it doesnt look like EK offers a block for the windforce card at least. Could check some other manufacturers such as koolance, swiftech, etc.


Thanks.

I'll have a look


----------



## taylorpro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I'll have a look


No problem.

And FYI I'm pat's friend with the expanded H220 loop. Added an extra 120mm rad and gpu block for my 780. Other than bleeding it being a pain, it seems to be working like a charm.


----------



## Gil80

My case (Antec P280) can't support an extra 120mm rad although I'd really like to add one if I'll be able to expand the H220.


----------



## taylorpro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> My case (Antec P280) can't support an extra 120mm rad although I'd really like to add one if I'll be able to expand the H220.


Start thinking outside of the box! It's not about where one can natively fit, but where one can be MADE to fit! Good luck man


----------



## Gil80

Cheers, I'll try that... though I'm Uber Noob in water cooling


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Cheers, I'll try that... though I'm Uber Noob in water cooling


usually the gigabyte windforce cards are non reference pcbs

my 7970 windforce certainly is so i cant use a full cover water block only a gpu block and heatsinks for the rest

looking here may help

http://coolingconfigurator.com/step1

and of course on swiftech site

http://www.swiftech.com/


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> That's what I bought:
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26485


Ok.

If yourcells Windforce card has GV-R929OC-4GD REV:1.0 PCB (look the code from PCB near PCI-e X16 connector fan side) as shown at EK cooling configurator:

http://coolingconfigurator.com/step1 *Brand:AMD -> GPU SERIES:RADEON R9 290 -> MANUFACTURER:GIGABYTE -> VIDEOCARD:GIGABYTE R9 290 WINDFORCE 3X OC 4GB GDDR5 (GV-R929OC-4GD REV:1.0)*

Then it's compatible as "reference" card for some R9 290 waterblocks.

For example (we checked this one for youcells visually comparing it's layout to AMD reference model PCB) http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1505&products_id=25733

This is a good waterblock and if youcells manage to get the backplate:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3150

for it, then it's excellent!









Please ask for it from PC CASE GEAR, since they don't have it on their list, but they will probably order one for you still?

But if it has some other revision, then it might(not necessarily) have some incompatibility even with that Aquacomputer waterblock?


----------



## Gil80

Thanks all for the help.

I got the idea. I'll email the store just to be safe and I'll start the modding.

How does the back plate help with cooling the card? Is it a significant improvement?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Thanks all for the help.
> 
> I got the idea. I'll email the store just to be safe and I'll start the modding.
> 
> How does the back plate help with cooling the card? Is it a significant improvement?


These back plates don't just improve cooling, for long cards like the 290s they also help make the card more rigid. This helps to prevent sagging that can potentially damage a card over time.


----------



## Gil80

Ok so if I'm to make a shopping list of what I need to extend my swiftech h220 for my GPU and extra 120mm Rad, this should be it?:

1. Koolance Copper Core CU420V High Flow 1x120mm Radiator

2. Masterkleer Tubing PVC UV Reactive Black 3/8ID 1/2OD 3m

3. Alphacool 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 Black

4. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Backplate

5. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Waterblock

(Aside from distilled water)


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Ok so if I'm to make a shopping list of what I need to extend my swiftech h220 for my GPU and extra 120mm Rad, this should be it?:
> 
> 1. Koolance Copper Core CU420V High Flow 1x120mm Radiator
> 
> 2. Masterkleer Tubing PVC UV Reactive Black 3/8ID 1/2OD 3m
> 
> 3. Alphacool 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 Black
> 
> 4. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Backplate
> 
> 5. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Waterblock
> 
> (Aside from distilled water)


3/8" x 5/8" tubing in mm is 10mm/16mm specification wise, not 10/13

edit: so you either have to change tubing to 10/13mm to use 10/13 compressions

or

change the compressions to 10/16 and use the 10/16 tubing.

since the barbs on the raditor/block are 3/8"(10mm) ID, i would think you could technically use either 10/13 or 10/16 as long as you have the correct parts for the rest of the loop. by default, the unit is 10/16


----------



## Gil80

Yep I got that wrong... just noticed that


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Ok so if I'm to make a shopping list of what I need to extend my swiftech h220 for my GPU and extra 120mm Rad, this should be it?:
> 
> 1. Koolance Copper Core CU420V High Flow 1x120mm Radiator
> 
> 2. Masterkleer Tubing PVC UV Reactive Black 3/8ID 1/2OD 3m
> 
> 3. Alphacool 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 Black
> 
> 4. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Backplate
> 
> 5. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Waterblock
> 
> (Aside from distilled water)


you also need a biocide either silver or iandh deadwater or pt nuke ( i do not recommend using the clear version (PHN) as it is biased off of clorine which eats rubber and everything else, although it is a minor amount, however please note this is more personal, you can do what ever you want )


----------



## Teufelshunde

woke to trouble this morning. System has ran fine since build last july. Had pump hooked to splitter #1 and both fans also connected via spliiter. woke to cpu fan error. rebooted couple times same error. pulled pump off splitter ran to cpu header...same error. Need help.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> How does the back plate help with cooling the card? Is it a significant improvement?


See the review of the AMD Radeon R9 290 waterblocks:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Ok so if I'm to make a shopping list of what I need to extend my swiftech h220 for my GPU and extra 120mm Rad, this should be it?:
> 
> 4. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Backplate
> 
> 5. XSPC Razor R9 290X/290 Waterblock


With this XSPC waterblock youcells might have minor incompatibility with your non reference Gigabyte Windforce PCB, since it has 2 capacitors that are visually longer ones than the AMD reference card has.





We're not sure about it since there is no clear side picture of the Windforce PCB.

But if they are longer ones and the XSPC full block acrylic plate goes over that VRM department, and is designed and measured for reference card capacitor heights, then the problem would be that they are touching the block that covers them bending the PCB.

It might not be too much of a problem, but still the more suitable for your card is the Aqua Computer block http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1580&products_id=25733

that does not cover the VRM department and it's active backplate helps cooling the backside VRM chips more efficiently than the XSPC backplate(it has no direct contact to backside VRM chips), as the above Stren's waterblock review will eventually show.

Just our 2 "cents".


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> woke to trouble this morning. System has ran fine since build last july. Had pump hooked to splitter #1 and both fans also connected via spliiter. woke to cpu fan error. rebooted couple times same error. pulled pump off splitter ran to cpu header...same error. Need help.


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with this issue.


----------



## Teufelshunde

ty in contact via email, hopefully we can solve this.

r/s


----------



## Teufelshunde

RMA process started, ty BramSLI1


----------



## NeOs89

Hi all,

I just by a H220 for my build. Pump problems are solved ? (noise, ko, etc ...)

There is just one version of H220 or a V2 with all corrects ?

Thx for answer


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> With this XSPC waterblock youcells might have minor incompatibility with your non reference Gigabyte Windforce PCB, since it has 2 capacitors that are visually longer ones than the AMD reference card has.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're not sure about it since there is no clear side picture of the Windforce PCB.
> 
> But if they are longer ones and the XSPC full block acrylic plate goes over that VRM department, and is designed and measured for reference card capacitor heights, then the problem would be that they are touching the block that covers them bending the PCB.
> 
> It might not be too much of a problem, but still the more suitable for your card is the Aqua Computer block http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1580&products_id=25733
> 
> that does not cover the VRM department and it's active backplate helps cooling the backside VRM chips more efficiently than the XSPC backplate(it has no direct contact to backside VRM chips), as the above Stren's waterblock review will eventually show.
> 
> Just our 2 "cents".


Thanks for the help.
The problem is, that I can't find active back plate to buy in Australia.
And on top of that, I don't even know how it's possible to connect GPU water block cooling with water cooling back plate. How is it all going to fit?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Can someone please explain to me why my H220 simply refuses to cool my CPU at times? Sometimes my idle temps are 40-50 even with the pump at 100%. There is plenty of liquid in it as I just checked. I don't even have an OC anymore because it keeps doing this and I'm afraid it'll get too hot. There are no strange noises whatsoever, just insanely high idle temps. I've ran out of options to try other than getting a whole new unit, yet again. Its the best cooler I've ever owned hands down, but it keeps giving me all these issues and its beyond annoying.

EDIT: According to Real Temp it isn't even safe to be on my PC right, is it possible my temperature reading is just off by that much on occasion? I mean Motherboard has been giving me fits forever now.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> The problem is, that I can't find active back plate to buy in Australia.
> And on top of that, I don't even know how it's possible to connect GPU water block cooling with water cooling back plate. How is it all going to fit?


I might have missed the post with your requirements but ek and swiftech have some nice universal GPU coolers that resemble a CPU block but smaller. I use the ek one with the Asus stock backplate and temps are ggggreat!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Can someone please explain to me why my H220 simply refuses to cool my CPU at times? Sometimes my idle temps are 40-50 even with the pump at 100%. There is plenty of liquid in it as I just checked. I don't even have an OC anymore because it keeps doing this and I'm afraid it'll get too hot. There are no strange noises whatsoever, just insanely high idle temps. I've ran out of options to try other than getting a whole new unit, yet again. Its the best cooler I've ever owned hands down, but it keeps giving me all these issues and its beyond annoying.
> 
> EDIT: According to Real Temp it isn't even safe to be on my PC right, is it possible my temperature reading is just off by that much on occasion? I mean Motherboard has been giving me fits forever now.


If your certain the pump is running I'm wondering if the fins on the CPU block are plugged by that plasticizer gunk that was shown a few post back. Inspection is easy, just remove the screws on the copper plate but remember it will leak fluid. Perhaps pm bram to ensure your warranty will be ok before doing so.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> If your certain the pump is running I'm wondering if the fins on the CPU block are plugged by that plasticizer gunk that was shown a few post back. Inspection is easy, just remove the screws on the copper plate but remember it will leak fluid. Perhaps pm bram to ensure your warranty will be ok before doing so.


I can hear the pump, it sounds the same as it always has. I would doubt that is the problem since I just replaced the pump fan a few months back as instructed to do so by Bryan.

EDIT: I would not mind taking it apart/draining it again, but I have no CPU paste or funds to buy more right now. In a week I can, but I would rather not wait a week to be able to use my PC again.


----------



## Teufelshunde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Sometimes my idle temps are 40-50 even with the pump at 100%.
> When I notice my idle temps spike I check taskmaster and see whats running in background that shouldn't be. For me on start up razer mamba software goes haywire and runs my pc at 40% until I restart razer.. a lot of variables when you say sometimes. Is 'sometimes' 90% of the time or 10% of the time.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Sometimes my idle temps are 40-50 even with the pump at 100%.
> When I notice my idle temps spike I check taskmaster and see whats running in background that shouldn't be. For me on start up razer mamba software goes haywire and runs my pc at 40% until I restart razer.. a lot of variables when you say sometimes. Is 'sometimes' 90% of the time or 10% of the time.
Click to expand...

CPU is at idle. Ranging anywhere from 5% to the minor spikes of 30-40 for split seconds.

EDIT: I've also searched Task Manager and can't find anything that shouldn't be running. Anything in question I went ahead and closed it. Nothing helped.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> CPU is at idle. Ranging anywhere from 5% to the minor spikes of 30-40 for split seconds.
> 
> EDIT: I've also searched Task Manager and can't find anything that shouldn't be running. Anything in question I went ahead and closed it. Nothing helped.


You don't have any of your hardware listed, but can you tell me what motherboard you're using and what programs you're using to monitor your temperatures and pump speed?


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Help!!!

I installed the H220 on my Maximus VI Impact, added a GPU water block assembled the loop in my case. After running the loop for a few minutes on idle, the GPU reports temps around 30C. The CPU however quickly reaches 100C!! I have reinstalled the pump/block several times and reapplied the thermal paste, as well. Nothing seems to help. Anyone know what I can do to fix this???


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't have any of your hardware listed, but can you tell me what motherboard you're using and what programs you're using to monitor your temperatures and pump speed?


i5 3570k with a MSI Z77A-G41 motherboard. I use a combination of Speedfan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp to monitor temps. I just noticed that Speedfan is showing the pump speed as 0 RPM/Not reading it. Should I take it apart and see if its clogged up?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> i5 3570k with a MSI Z77A-G41 motherboard. I use a combination of Speedfan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp to monitor temps. I just noticed that Speedfan is showing the pump speed as 0 RPM/Not reading it. Should I take it apart and see if its clogged up?


Is Speedfan the only program that's reading a speed of 0? If so it could just be an issue with Speedfan. Please check your BIOS to see if this is case or not. You should also be able to tell by looking at your temps. If they're still normal and you're getting a reading of 0 on Speedfan then it's probably just a reporting issue with Speedfan.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is Speedfan the only program that's reading a speed of 0? If so it could just be an issue with Speedfan. Please check your BIOS to see if this is case or not. You should also be able to tell by looking at your temps. If they're still normal and you're getting a reading of 0 on Speedfan then it's probably just a reporting issue with Speedfan.


The idle tempa are 40-80. No reason for its higher or lower. Both speedfan and my bios read 0 RPM


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> The idle tempa are 40-80. No reason for its higher or lower. Both speedfan and my bios read 0 RPM


OK, can you feel whether or not the pump is running when you put your hand on it and have you tried connecting the pump to other fan headers?


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, can you feel whether or not the pump is running when you put your hand on it and have you tried connecting the pump to other fan headers?


I can hear it running/feel it running. I just tried two other fan headers and still have the same issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> I can hear it running/feel it running. I just tried two other fan headers and still have the same issue.


Can you send me PM about this? I'll have our engineer look into this as well to see if there is anything that you might be able to do on your end to resolve it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Help!!!
> 
> I installed the H220 on my Maximus VI Impact, added a GPU water block assembled the loop in my case. After running the loop for a few minutes on idle, the GPU reports temps around 30C. The CPU however quickly reaches 100C!! I have reinstalled the pump/block several times and reapplied the thermal paste, as well. Nothing seems to help. Anyone know what I can do to fix this???


If you just finished expanding the kit then you likely have some air trapped in your pump. These pumps can be difficult to bleed once you've expanded them. You'll need to make sure that you get all of the air out of the pump quickly or you could end up damaging it.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you just finished expanding the kit then you likely have some air trapped in your pump. These pumps can be difficult to bleed once you've expanded them. You'll need to make sure that you get all of the air out of the pump quickly or you could end up damaging it.


Would this account for why the GPU seems to be cooled and not the CPU?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Would this account for why the GPU seems to be cooled and not the CPU?


Yes, that would account for it. If you have air in the pump then it isn't going to allow for very good cooling performance of the CPU water block. If the pump wasn't running at all though then your GPU would also have very high idle temps.


----------



## thelude

Hey Bram. Any word/information on the new H220x or the MCP50x. Is it nearing release? Thanks.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that would account for it. If you have air in the pump then it isn't going to allow for very good cooling performance of the CPU water block. If the pump wasn't running at all though then your GPU would also have very high idle temps.


Good to know. What would you suggest is the best way to blokes the air out of the pump?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> The problem is, that I can't find active back plate to buy in Australia.


http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3150

Aqua Computer will ship to Australia for 34,90€.

Out of stock, but it's on reproduction.

Estimated shipping will be at 26.3.2014.

Hope youcells are not in super urgent mode? 
We can even help you with that shipping , so if you want our help, just PM us.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> And on top of that, I don't even know how it's possible to connect GPU water block cooling with water cooling back plate. How is it all going to fit?


Youcells don't need to know exactly how, Aqua Computer has done it for you.









See the pictures (ENLARGE them) from their website link above for visual answer.

Also the earlier answer to that Stern's waterblock test review preliminary summary explains that.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/

Our short explanation:

The aluminium backplate of the Aqua Computer has a profile that takes direct contact(with thermal pads) to the videocard backside VRM modules, from where the heat goes then to the backplate (flowing case air also cools it down).

From the aluminium backplate the copper heatpipe will transfer some extra heat to the waterblock terminal input and output, from where the flowing water is cooling the heatpipe and then it(heatpipe) returns again to cool the backplate over the VRM modules...

That is the basic structure of that active backplate thermal loop.

And it's working!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey Bram. Any word/information on the new H220x or the MCP50x. Is it nearing release? Thanks.


Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Good to know. What would you suggest is the best way to blokes the air out of the pump?


The best way would be to remove the pump/ water block unit completely and then try shaking it to get the air to move out of it. You might also need to rotate your case to accomplish this. I don't have any idea of what your loop configuration currently looks like, so if you post a couple of pics I might be able to help you out a little better.


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Good to know. What would you suggest is the best way to blokes the air out of the pump?


Try tilting your case in different angles. What work for me was changing my speed pump from high to low and back and forth to get those air bubbles. GL


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.


Thanks. Hopefully we see it b4 the summer.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.
> The best way would be to remove the pump/ water block unit completely and then try shaking it to get the air to move out of it. You might also need to rotate your case to accomplish this. I don't have any idea of what your loop configuration currently looks like, so if you post a couple of pics I might be able to help you out a little better.


I have it crammed into an NCase M1


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I have it crammed into an NCase M1


OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.


I'll give it another try. I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.


Nooooo. I've been waiting for this for a long while.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. *There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.*


Oh my GOD


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.


Thanks for the help. I wound up just taking out the rad/res, cycling the pump and shaking everything around until the big bubbles worked themselves out. The pump makes bubbling noises every once in awhile, but I think its more bubbles working themselves out. Will bleed it more later. Temps are now 36-40C at idle.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3150
> 
> Aqua Computer will ship to Australia for 34,90€.
> 
> Out of stock, but it's on reproduction.
> 
> Estimated shipping will be at 26.3.2014.
> 
> Hope youcells are not in super urgent mode?
> 
> We can even help you with that shipping , so if you want our help, just PM us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youcells don't need to know exactly how, Aqua Computer has done it for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the pictures (ENLARGE them) from their website link above for visual answer.
> 
> Also the earlier answer to that Stern's waterblock test review preliminary summary explains that.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/
> 
> Our short explanation:
> 
> The aluminium backplate of the Aqua Computer has a profile that takes direct contact(with thermal pads) to the videocard backside VRM modules, from where the heat goes then to the backplate (flowing case air also cools it down).
> 
> From the aluminium backplate the copper heatpipe will transfer some extra heat to the waterblock terminal input and output, from where the flowing water is cooling the heatpipe and then it(heatpipe) returns again to cool the backplate over the VRM modules...
> 
> That is the basic structure of that active backplate thermal loop.
> 
> And it's working!


Hi and thanks again for the help.

I've contacted Aqua Computer and they don't have any VGA water block to fit the Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 GPU.
EK has these two that DO fit:
1. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1501&products_id=25984
2. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1501&products_id=26337

I don't know what's the performance difference between the Nickel and Brass/Copper plates.

As for the back plate you mentioned, I couldn't find pictures to show how a VGA back plate is coupled with VGA water block on the same GPU.

So if I would buy the Aqua Computer VGA back plate, I have no idea how to mount it and connect the pipes together with the VGA water block of EK.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Thanks for the help. I wound up just taking out the rad/res, cycling the pump and shaking everything around until the big bubbles worked themselves out. The pump makes bubbling noises every once in awhile, but I think its more bubbles working themselves out. Will bleed it more later. Temps are now 36-40C at idle.


Sounds good. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I have it crammed into an NCase M1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You brave soul!! lol Nice to see you get it all to fit. I was tempted to do an itx build with that mobo and am glad to know it clears.

I did want to mention this as noob as it sounds...Did you take the clear plastic film off of the copper plate? Im sure you did but you never know.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> You brave soul!! lol Nice to see you get it all to fit. I was tempted to do an itx build with that mobo and am glad to know it clears.
> 
> I did want to mention this as noob as it sounds...Did you take the clear plastic film off of the copper plate? Im sure you did but you never know.


It's not as noob as you might think. I've rushed a build before and done it myself.


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> You brave soul!! lol Nice to see you get it all to fit. I was tempted to do an itx build with that mobo and am glad to know it clears.
> 
> I did want to mention this as noob as it sounds...Did you take the clear plastic film off of the copper plate? Im sure you did but you never know.


Of course...


----------



## Ludamister

Hey everyone!

I'm currently working on this build here. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/34YET . Right now, I'm using the Crosshair V Formula and AMD FX-8150 with the Liquid Cooler combo that came with it. I just purchased my GTX 780 Classified and was going to purchase the PSU but turns out it was out of stock @ SuperBiiz and Amazon is charging sales tax now for North Carolina. So I'm going to wait for either the PSU to go back into stock or for the H320 to go down in price. I seen it go down to 129.99 before. Hoping it goes down again!

All that said, I'm a pretty busy person so I don't have too much of the luxury to do tons of research. I tried searching up reviews and videos of the H320 but I can't find anything really. I eventually want to expand it and put both of my 780 Classy's under water. I wanted to ask if you guys think the pump will be enough to move the coolant through the two GPU blocks, the Swiftech plus another radiator and the cpu block. I've never done water cooling but I'd like to do it right. I know a lot of enthusiasts might scoff at the idea of using an expandable closed loop system but I wanted to get everyone's opinions on it's efficiency. I do plan to OC my i7-4770k to around 4.2-4.5 ghz (silicon lottery yay) and flash my classy's for extreme overclocks (1400-1500mhz) range hopefully.

Can the H320, with all of its tools, keep my system cool?

Edit: NCIX now has the H220 back at 99.99! Should I go for that instead? Money isn't an issue and I've got 360mm support for my case. Not sure if it would be sufficient enough.


----------



## Jugurnot

Hey guys. My h220 arrived today!

It's a nice unit I must say. I've already spotted some minor details that definitely put it into the budget cooler category. Paint runs on the rad, swivel fittings look cheap, CPU block mounting is a little flimsy, and the backing plate I did't even use. The tubes are very long, especially in an XB! Have to trim them later on for sure. Fans have an inconsistent hum to them. Not sure what that is all about, but its not something I care about because they are getting replaced.

Now performance wise this thing kicks butt. At idle, temperatures dropped an average of 2 degrees. At 100% load temperatures dropped a whopping 7 degrees.

Before I was using a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer (120mm rad in push/pull)

Currently the H220 is in push w/ stock Helix fans. Can't wait to put my Cougar's on... whenever they get here!!

Anyway, i'm already impressed with it.

A few numbers for you...

i5-3570k 4.5ghz @ 1.145 vcore

w/ Thermaltake 2.0 Performer push/pull 2000 rpm fans

Ambient room temp of 19 (probably lower than this at my pc, as it is next to a window)

26-17-24-22 = Idle
59-62-65-61 = 100% load

w/ H220 push 1800 rpm fans

24-15-23-19 = Idle
53-55-58-54 = 100% load

Used IBT to load CPU


----------



## kyosak

Could you guys show me where you mount the Swiftech PWM splitter?
I think I will buy this splitter (not the water cooling kit)


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Could you guys show me where you mount the Swiftech PWM splitter?
> I think I will buy this splitter (not the water cooling kit)


Where ever its conveneint in your case. The sata power conector and the wire going to your CPU fan header are of decent length (I want to say 12", but cant confirm right now)

There is sticky tape on the bottom of the splitter and 2 mounting holes for machine screws.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I've contacted Aqua Computer and they don't have any VGA water block to fit the Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 GPU.


We wonder if they just gave the mechanical answer to your question.

The Windforce PCB layout is NOT OFFICIAL AMD PCB layout, and thus they(AC) can't OFFICIALLY support(warranty) that card.

The real support for that card is totally another thing though. There are no components that are direct incompatible in the surface area of

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3135
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3136
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3152
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1580&products_id=25733

in yourcells Windforce PCB, we have visually checked that.

The Windforce PCB has few components that are different manufacturers components than in AMD reference card, but they are still located at the exact same point of the PCB and they use the same component boxing or even smaller than AMD reference card has.

The Magic R15 components on VRM module are little lower with their packing than the reference card 1007R3 R15 components. AC might want to cool them also, but because they are lower, the block can't do that, but then again in EK water blocks there are no direct cooling for them neither...

We contacted AC as well for the case... let's wait for their answer and our response to that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> EK has these two that DO fit:
> 1. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1501&products_id=25984
> 2. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_878_880_1501&products_id=26337
> 
> I don't know what's the performance difference between the Nickel and Brass/Copper plates.


Absolute nonexistent, because both of them are mainly electrolytic copper plates, but the Nickel version has only very thin nickel surface on top of it to give it that shiny silver color.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> As for the back plate you mentioned, I couldn't find pictures to show how a VGA back plate is coupled with VGA water block on the same GPU.
> 
> So if I would buy the Aqua Computer VGA back plate, I have no idea how to mount it and connect the pipes together with the VGA water block of EK.


http://shop.aquacomputer.de/images/product_images/popup_images/23587_4.jpg

There you have it. There the active back plate is connected with that AC water block on the same GPU.

Also at Stern's water block test, there is picture of card/block/back plate/fittings at his thread post of 12-23-2013, 07:57 PM

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing

Youcells probably can't install it for EK waterblock since the AC and EK might have different contact points and structure with their block in out terminal mounting.

That Stren might try out that later, so answer could come to that from there. You could also ask it from themcells on that Xtremesystems.org thread, they have both EK block and AC active back plate.

Also. Don't worry, the AC back plate has instructions how to install it.









Let's still wait till the AC has answered for our technical inquiry.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

First of all, I must state I've never done WC before, so I'm a complete noob in that regard.

I'm building a new PC with an i7 4770K, a Hero board and a GTX 780 Ti, and I plan on watercool the CPU for now.

I'm in Portugal and my budget for WaterCooling is around 150/200€. Do you think I should go with a Swiftech H320? Is it good value for my money? I'd like to add a block for the VGA in the near future.

Where can I get one? I can't seem to find it in stock on any of the European Amazon sites. A friend told me about the Highflow.nl shop, but it costs 164.95€ on there, without considering shipping costs. In my country, it used to cost ~150€ before it went out of stock.

Oh, i forgot to mention, the case is a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and the PSU is an AX760.

Do you think the PSU wattage will be sufficient for a future custom WC, with the VGA added to the H320 loop?


----------



## Gil80

Thanks mate!
I really appreciate your help. Let's see the Aqua Computer will answer.
I hope it will be a positive answer.

Now that I look again at the pictures I see how the back plate the VGA water block are combined. And as you mentioned it's better to have the both by the same manufacturer.
Hope for some good news... can't wait to start expending my H220 and cool down my GPU


----------



## 66racer

Has this been seen yet?

*NCIX usa h220x preorder $154.99*
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93547&vpn=H220X&manufacture=Swiftech
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> First of all, I must state I've never done WC before, so I'm a complete noob in that regard.
> 
> I'm building a new PC with an i7 4770K, a Hero board and a GTX 780 Ti, and I plan on watercool the CPU for now.
> 
> I'm in Portugal and my budget for WaterCooling is around 150/200€. Do you think I should go with a Swiftech H320? Is it good value for my money? I'd like to add a block for the VGA in the near future.
> 
> Where can I get one? I can't seem to find it in stock on any of the European Amazon sites. A friend told me about the Highflow.nl shop, but it costs 164.95€ on there, without considering shipping costs. In my country, it used to cost ~150€ before it went out of stock.
> 
> Oh, i forgot to mention, the case is a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and the PSU is an AX760.
> 
> Do you think the PSU wattage will be sufficient for a future custom WC, with the VGA added to the H320 loop?


I cant comment on where to purchase one, but the h320 should be enough for the cpu and gpu. If you only planned on the cpu, the h220 would be enough, but if you have the room the h320 wouldnt be a bad idea even if you never put the gpu under water.

Currently I have my cpu and gpu all off the h220 radiator with very good temps.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I've contacted Aqua Computer and they don't have any VGA water block to fit the Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Absolute nonexistent, because both of them are mainly electrolytic copper plates, but the Nickel version has only very thin nickel surface on top of it to give it that shiny silver color.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> As for the back plate you mentioned, I couldn't find pictures to show how a VGA back plate is coupled with VGA water block on the same GPU.
> 
> So if I would buy the Aqua Computer VGA back plate, I have no idea how to mount it and connect the pipes together with the VGA water block of EK.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/images/product_images/popup_images/23587_4.jpg
> 
> There you have it. There the active back plate is connected with that AC water block on the same GPU.
> 
> Also at Stern's water block test, there is picture of card/block/back plate/fittings at his thread post of 12-23-2013, 07:57 PM
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing
> 
> Youcells probably can't install it for EK waterblock since the AC and EK might have different contact points and structure with their block in out terminal mounting.
> 
> That Stren might try out that later, so answer could come to that from there. You could also ask it from themcells on that Xtremesystems.org thread, they have both EK block and AC active back plate.
> 
> Also. Don't worry, the AC back plate has instructions how to install it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's still wait till the AC has answered for our technical inquiry.
Click to expand...




are you a rep ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> First of all, I must state I've never done WC before, so I'm a complete noob in that regard.
> 
> I'm building a new PC with an i7 4770K, a Hero board and a GTX 780 Ti, and I plan on watercool the CPU for now.
> 
> I'm in Portugal and my budget for WaterCooling is around 150/200€. Do you think I should go with a Swiftech H320? Is it good value for my money? I'd like to add a block for the VGA in the near future.
> 
> Where can I get one? I can't seem to find it in stock on any of the European Amazon sites. A friend told me about the Highflow.nl shop, but it costs 164.95€ on there, without considering shipping costs. In my country, it used to cost ~150€ before it went out of stock.
> 
> Oh, i forgot to mention, the case is a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and the PSU is an AX760.
> 
> Do you think the PSU wattage will be sufficient for a future custom WC, with the VGA added to the H320 loop?


psu should be fine, only adding ~ 20w assuming 1 pump and a ton of fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Has this been seen yet?
> 
> *NCIX usa h220x preorder $154.99*
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93547&vpn=H220X&manufacture=Swiftech
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> First of all, I must state I've never done WC before, so I'm a complete noob in that regard.
> 
> I'm building a new PC with an i7 4770K, a Hero board and a GTX 780 Ti, and I plan on watercool the CPU for now.
> 
> I'm in Portugal and my budget for WaterCooling is around 150/200€. Do you think I should go with a Swiftech H320? Is it good value for my money? I'd like to add a block for the VGA in the near future.
> 
> Where can I get one? I can't seem to find it in stock on any of the European Amazon sites. A friend told me about the Highflow.nl shop, but it costs 164.95€ on there, without considering shipping costs. In my country, it used to cost ~150€ before it went out of stock.
> 
> Oh, i forgot to mention, the case is a Phanteks Enthoo Primo and the PSU is an AX760.
> 
> Do you think the PSU wattage will be sufficient for a future custom WC, with the VGA added to the H320 loop?
> 
> 
> 
> I cant comment on where to purchase one, but the h320 should be enough for the cpu and gpu. If you only planned on the cpu, the h220 would be enough, but if you have the room the h320 wouldnt be a bad idea even if you never put the gpu under water.
> 
> Currently I have my cpu and gpu all off the h220 radiator with very good temps.
Click to expand...

this


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> I'm currently working on this build here. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/34YET . Right now, I'm using the Crosshair V Formula and AMD FX-8150 with the Liquid Cooler combo that came with it. I just purchased my GTX 780 Classified and was going to purchase the PSU but turns out it was out of stock @ SuperBiiz and Amazon is charging sales tax now for North Carolina. So I'm going to wait for either the PSU to go back into stock or for the H320 to go down in price. I seen it go down to 129.99 before. Hoping it goes down again!
> 
> All that said, I'm a pretty busy person so I don't have too much of the luxury to do tons of research. I tried searching up reviews and videos of the H320 but I can't find anything really. I eventually want to expand it and put both of my 780 Classy's under water. I wanted to ask if you guys think the pump will be enough to move the coolant through the two GPU blocks, the Swiftech plus another radiator and the cpu block. I've never done water cooling but I'd like to do it right. I know a lot of enthusiasts might scoff at the idea of using an expandable closed loop system but I wanted to get everyone's opinions on it's efficiency. I do plan to OC my i7-4770k to around 4.2-4.5 ghz (silicon lottery yay) and flash my classy's for extreme overclocks (1400-1500mhz) range hopefully.
> 
> Can the H320, with all of its tools, keep my system cool?
> 
> Edit: NCIX now has the H220 back at 99.99! Should I go for that instead? Money isn't an issue and I've got 360mm support for my case. Not sure if it would be sufficient enough.


No? No one? Okay







. I'll just go on a whim.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> I'm currently working on this build here. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/34YET . Right now, I'm using the Crosshair V Formula and AMD FX-8150 with the Liquid Cooler combo that came with it. I just purchased my GTX 780 Classified and was going to purchase the PSU but turns out it was out of stock @ SuperBiiz and Amazon is charging sales tax now for North Carolina. So I'm going to wait for either the PSU to go back into stock or for the H320 to go down in price. I seen it go down to 129.99 before. Hoping it goes down again!
> 
> All that said, I'm a pretty busy person so I don't have too much of the luxury to do tons of research. I tried searching up reviews and videos of the H320 but I can't find anything really. I eventually want to expand it and put both of my 780 Classy's under water. I wanted to ask if you guys think the pump will be enough to move the coolant through the two GPU blocks, the Swiftech plus another radiator and the cpu block. I've never done water cooling but I'd like to do it right. I know a lot of enthusiasts might scoff at the idea of using an expandable closed loop system but I wanted to get everyone's opinions on it's efficiency. I do plan to OC my i7-4770k to around 4.2-4.5 ghz (silicon lottery yay) and flash my classy's for extreme overclocks (1400-1500mhz) range hopefully.
> 
> Can the H320, with all of its tools, keep my system cool?
> 
> Edit: NCIX now has the H220 back at 99.99! Should I go for that instead? Money isn't an issue and I've got 360mm support for my case. Not sure if it would be sufficient enough.


Welcome to OCN!

So basically 4770k and two 780's. Swiftech has shown the h220/320 pump to put out enough flow for that much of a loop so that shouldn't be an issue. You might consider the cooler master glacier 240L since in your case the extra 500rpm might be worth while, I think I would still go swiftech personally to make sure you get excellent customer service if anything does go wrong.

I would think the h220 at $100 + a 360mm rad added would be a better bet. While Im sure the h320 (360mm rad) alone would provide acceptable temps, it likely wouldnt be enough radiator on its own for the 780sli overvolt and 4770k. Im gonna say you probably need at least 480mm of radiator to cool the system effectively but others with more 780sli experience may chime in.

You can also consider the swiftech apogee drive 2 with a mcp35x pump built in that has even more pump power but still in a similar aio package if you just wanted to pick out your own reservoir and radiators. They go for around $140 for the pump/cpu block, then pick your reservoir, radiator(s), hose and fittings. Distilled water with a silver kill coil or an additive like dead water.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> No? No one? Okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll just go on a whim.


I doubt 360mm is enough rad space.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So is anyone getting the H220X?


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> So basically 4770k and two 780's. Swiftech has shown the h220/320 pump to put out enough flow for that much of a loop so that shouldn't be an issue. You might consider the cooler master glacier 240L since in your case the extra 500rpm might be worth while, I think I would still go swiftech personally to make sure you get excellent customer service if anything does go wrong.
> 
> I would think the h220 at $100 + a 360mm rad added would be a better bet. While Im sure the h320 (360mm rad) alone would provide acceptable temps, it likely wouldnt be enough radiator on its own for the 780sli overvolt and 4770k. Im gonna say you probably need at least 480mm of radiator to cool the system effectively but others with more 780sli experience may chime in.
> 
> You can also consider the swiftech apogee drive 2 with a mcp35x pump built in that has even more pump power but still in a similar aio package if you just wanted to pick out your own reservoir and radiators. They go for around $140 for the pump/cpu block, then pick your reservoir, radiator(s), hose and fittings. Distilled water with a silver kill coil or an additive like dead water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I doubt 360mm is enough rad space.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So is anyone getting the H220X?


I'm using an Azza Hurrican 2000 that supports 360mm cooling. I just pre-ordered the H220X since its rumored to have better performance than the H220 and close to the H320.

@66racer: Yeah, with this H220X, I'm not sure how the space in my casing would be but I think that plus a 360mm radiator would do well, no? I don't know exactly how I would lay it out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So is anyone getting the H220X?


me


----------



## Neo Zuko

You would think Swiftech would have it up on the website ahead of time, all fancy like.


----------



## John Freeman

on the h220 block(seated normally) is the left nozzle out and the right nozzle in? or does it not matter at all


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Freeman*
> 
> on the h220 block(seated normally) is the left nozzle out and the right nozzle in? or does it not matter at all


If you're looking straight down at it, with the logo on the bottom right corner, the inlet is on the left.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> I'm using an Azza Hurrican 2000 that supports 360mm cooling. I just pre-ordered the H220X since its rumored to have better performance than the H220 and close to the H320.
> 
> @66racer: Yeah, with this H220X, I'm not sure how the space in my casing would be but I think that plus a 360mm radiator would do well, no? I don't know exactly how I would lay it out.


Well, with a 240mm from the h220x and a 360mm I think would be perfect. I would suggest going into the gtx 780 club and asking the guys in there how much radiator they need for their sli setups. Keep in mind that swiftech has shown their unit to be able to work properly with that much radiator surface.

Here is the link
official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So is anyone getting the H220X?


I dont think I will. Im actually thinking of the apogee drive 2 but (edit for clarification) I want to see how the new stand alone pump running at 4500rpm does based from the h220 pump


----------



## Nightingale

I was wondering is it possible to change the 3/8 barbs and add 1/2 ones. I plan to add the H220 to a full loop that uses 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing, other wise I would have to change the barbs to the custom loop to 3/8 5/8 which the H220 uses.


----------



## Dudewitbow

the barbs are permanently attached to my knowledge. so the required ID is 3/8"

on a side note. changed over to compression fittings. the wait time of repriming the pump with water =X. at least my system didnt fail on me though.

side note number 2: just realized, the past few months, I was running all my fans on exhale ha ha.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Does the H220X use the MCP50X as it's pump?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Does the H220X use the MCP50X as it's pump?


It does indeed, the H220\Glacer can also mount an MCP50X IIRC..


----------



## Neo Zuko

So basically I'll have Swiftech's new CPU block and new pump. Interesting.

Whats the best spot to order for the usa? I was going to order from the swiftech website store but the only pre order I saw was the NCIX one. I like sidewinders or swiftech direct for swiftech stuff usually.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well, with a 240mm from the h220x and a 360mm I think would be perfect. I would suggest going into the gtx 780 club and asking the guys in there how much radiator they need for their sli setups. Keep in mind that swiftech has shown their unit to be able to work properly with that much radiator surface.
> 
> Here is the link
> official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club
> I dont think I will. Im actually thinking of the apogee drive 2 but I want to see how the new pump from the h220 at 4500rpm does


Wait, what new pump? I just bought the h220 and it is 3000rpm max. Are they releasing a new version?


----------



## X-Alt

He meant H220X..


----------



## Jugurnot

Oh good haha. I would be upset if I could have gotten a better model


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Does the H220X use the MCP50X as it's pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Does the H220X use the MCP50X as it's pump?
> 
> 
> 
> It does indeed, the H220\Glacer can also mount an MCP50X IIRC..
Click to expand...

yea... no swiftech uses their own pump which is designed to run 4500 rpm, but h220 limits to 3000 glacier 3500 iirc and the standalone possibly the h220x with be 4500, the h220x may be 3500 or w.e though bri will have to comment


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Oh good haha. I would be upset if I could have gotten a better model


Yeah I kinda wrote that a little odd. Meant the new stand alone pump based from the h220.


----------



## X-Alt

I am pretty sure it is a gimped 35X and a gimped 50X.. I am willing to bet on it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> I am pretty sure it is a gimped 35X and a gimped 50X.. I am willing to bet on it


i know for a fact that it is not a 350x it is swiftechs own pump

the ADII has the 35x

h220 and variants = swiftechs pump


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know for a fact that it is not a 350x it is swiftechs own pump
> 
> the ADII has the 35x
> 
> h220 and variants = swiftechs pump


Odd, always thought the 35X was their own design..


----------



## Neo Zuko

The custom tops are Swiftech designs. Like the MCP35X2 top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Odd, always thought the 35X was their own design..


The 35X is based on a Laing DDC pump. The pumps in our H220/ H320 and H220X are our own proprietary pumps.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The 35X is based on a Laing DDC pump. The pumps in our H220/ H320 and H220X are our own proprietary pumps.


You seem to be a representative from Swiftech. If I so may dare to ask, is there any chance that the retail price for the H220X will be as stated in that one particular YouTube video of NCIX being inside the Swiftech suite at CES earlier with the company president? I remember it saying it would retail for $149.95. I've already pre-ordered it but I was wondering why there is such a minor discrepancy.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> You seem to be a representative from Swiftech. If I so may dare to ask, is there any chance that the retail price for the H220X will be as stated in that one particular YouTube video of NCIX being inside the Swiftech suite at CES earlier with the company president? I remember it saying it would retail for $149.95. I've already pre-ordered it but I was wondering why there is such a minor discrepancy.


I don't know why there would be a discrepancy. How much did you preorder it for?


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't know why there would be a discrepancy. How much did you reorder it for?


Disregarding the shipping and insurance, it was $154.99. You can find it here at this link at that price.
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93547


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't know why there would be a discrepancy. How much did you reorder it for?
> 
> 
> 
> Disregarding the shipping and insurance, it was $154.99. You can find it here at this link at that price.
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93547
Click to expand...

that would be due to reseller not MSPR that is just a recommend price, unless through a contract swiftech can not control what price they sell them for


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Disregarding the shipping and insurance, it was $154.99. You can find it here at this link at that price.
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93547


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that would be due to reseller not MSPR that is just a recommend price, unless through a contract swiftech can not control what price they sell them for


That's correct. Our price is just the suggested retail price. Resellers have the ability to set their own prices.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that would be due to reseller not MSPR that is just a recommend price, unless through a contract swiftech can not control what price they sell them for


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. Our price is just the suggested retail price. Resellers have the ability to set their own prices.


Fair enough. Although I don't really remember anything ever selling for more than MSRP on release from any of my prior purchases. In any case, it'll be in my hands by the end of the month hopefully. Now I just need to figure out if I can fit that plus a 360mm radiator in my Azza Hurrican 2000 case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Fair enough. Although I don't really remember anything ever selling for more than MSRP on release from any of my prior purchases. In any case, it'll be in my hands by the end of the month hopefully. Now I just need to figure out if I can fit that plus a 360mm radiator in my Azza Hurrican 2000 case.


No you want be able. That case only supports one rad upto 360mm on top and that will vary on thickness.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Fair enough. Although I don't really remember anything ever selling for more than MSRP on release from any of my prior purchases. In any case, it'll be in my hands by the end of the month hopefully. Now I just need to figure out if I can fit that plus a 360mm radiator in my Azza Hurrican 2000 case.


the original h220 at ncix launched above msrp back when it launched last year


----------



## ListenerFan

I have a few questions, that I feel like the community here would be able to help me out with it. I have a H220 that I got off ebay, it worked great for about 3 months, but recently the pump has completely failed on me. I went to swiftech seeing if they could help me out, unfortunately they couldn't because I didn't have a receipt for it. I took apart the pump head yesterday and it was full of metal scraps and I don't think there is anything I can do to revive it. I was and still plan on adding a R290 and a another radiator to the loop, but I obviously need to first get liquid moving again. So here are my questions.

- Is there anyway to revive the stock pump?
- If there isn't a way to fix the stock pump, can I add a external pump to the loop and use the H220 cpu block still? (Gut the pump part out possibly?)
- If I can use the stock block still, I need a pump, tubing, and more liquid, correct?

I appreciate any help that comes my way, I'm really itching to get my desktop back up, and I was really loving the benefits of the H220 over previous corsair offerings I tried.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ListenerFan*
> 
> I have a few questions, that I feel like the community here would be able to help me out with it. I have a H220 that I got off ebay, it worked great for about 3 months, but recently the pump has completely failed on me. I went to swiftech seeing if they could help me out, unfortunately they couldn't because I didn't have a receipt for it. I took apart the pump head yesterday and it was full of metal scraps and I don't think there is anything I can do to revive it. I was and still plan on adding a R290 and a another radiator to the loop, but I obviously need to first get liquid moving again. So here are my questions.
> 
> - Is there anyway to revive the stock pump?
> - If there isn't a way to fix the stock pump, can I add a external pump to the loop and use the H220 cpu block still? (Gut the pump part out possibly?)
> - If I can use the stock block still, I need a pump, tubing, and more liquid, correct?
> 
> I appreciate any help that comes my way, I'm really itching to get my desktop back up, and I was really loving the benefits of the H220 over previous corsair offerings I tried.


You can replace the pump on this unit with our new MCP350X when it comes out, or you can put a different pump in the loop. It's up to you. If you decide to just add a different pump to the loop you can just remove the impeller from the pump of the H220 unit so that you'll get better flow through it. I'm sorry that I wasn't able to provide you with warranty support for this kit that you purchased off of Ebay.


----------



## ListenerFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can replace the pump on this unit with our new MCP350X when it comes out, or you can put a different pump in the loop. It's up to you. If you decide to just add a different pump to the loop you can just remove the impeller from the pump of the H220 unit so that you'll get better flow through it. I'm sorry that I wasn't able to provide you with warranty support for this kit that you purchased off of Ebay.


Hey it's no worries about not being able to fix it, I took the risk when I got it off of ebay, Just figured I'd contact regardless. So it really shouldn't be a big deal if I remove the impeller from the pump and run another pump in the loop, is there a specific way to remove the impeller? I fooled with it last night and I didn't see an easy way to do that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ListenerFan*
> 
> Hey it's no worries about not being able to fix it, I took the risk when I got it off of ebay, Just figured I'd contact regardless. So it really shouldn't be a big deal if I remove the impeller from the pump and run another pump in the loop, is there a specific way to remove the impeller? I fooled with it last night and I didn't see an easy way to do that.


Once you have the pump removed from the housing, you should just be able to grab the top part that looks like fan blades and pull up on it.


----------



## soad666p

hi first time posting on this topic
i got the h220 and i want to add the 360 rad to the hope
im just bit worried as i will be fitting the 360 up on the top of case and h220 rad on bottom ,
could the pump run dry

basic pic of the lay out


----------



## taylorpro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> hi first time posting on this topic
> i got the h220 and i want to add the 360 rad to the hope
> im just bit worried as i will be fitting the 360 up on the top of case and h220 rad on bottom ,
> could the pump run dry
> 
> basic pic of the lay out


Add a cheap res to feed the pump directly. Would only cost you about 30 bucks more. Otherwise, it will be a pain to fill and bleed


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorpro*
> 
> Add a cheap res to feed the pump directly. Would only cost you about 30 bucks more. Otherwise, it will be a pain to fill and bleed


Yes, this is correct.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> hi first time posting on this topic
> i got the h220 and i want to add the 360 rad to the hope
> im just bit worried as i will be fitting the 360 up on the top of case and h220 rad on bottom ,
> could the pump run dry
> 
> basic pic of the lay out


you essentially have to either buy a seperate res and try to have it above the block, or be patient when it comes to bleeding the unit of air bubbles. I recently attached a GPU block into my loop, and due to case constraints, none of my 2 reservoirs are above my block(h220 res is at way bottom like your picture one, other res is at the back of the case for ease of refilling externally). I used up a whole day while bleeding my loop with my case on its side, as at the time the pump would not move water on the cases upright position. I moved it back 2 days ago and now the pump works fine. for ease of use, get an extra reservoir if possible. If you are going to go through the loop as you pictured, just have the patience to bleed, as it is not an instant process.

on the side note, that's a lot of radiator space for a CPU? are you expanding any time soon?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ListenerFan*
> 
> I have a few questions, that I feel like the community here would be able to help me out with it. I have a H220 that I got off ebay, it worked great for about 3 months, but recently the pump has completely failed on me. I went to swiftech seeing if they could help me out, unfortunately they couldn't because I didn't have a receipt for it. I took apart the pump head yesterday and it was full of metal scraps and I don't think there is anything I can do to revive it. I was and still plan on adding a R290 and a another radiator to the loop, but I obviously need to first get liquid moving again. So here are my questions.
> 
> - Is there anyway to revive the stock pump?
> - If there isn't a way to fix the stock pump, can I add a external pump to the loop and use the H220 cpu block still? (Gut the pump part out possibly?)
> - If I can use the stock block still, I need a pump, tubing, and more liquid, correct?
> 
> I appreciate any help that comes my way, I'm really itching to get my desktop back up, and I was really loving the benefits of the H220 over previous corsair offerings I tried.


you dont even need to remove the impeller it has been shown several times pumps add little to no restrictions in loops when they are not on when people running 2 pumps in a loop have one die it is not uncommon to leave it in until the next time you rip apart you loop yes you can use another pump or replace with swiftechs pump that will be released soon ! !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> hi first time posting on this topic
> i got the h220 and i want to add the 360 rad to the hope
> im just bit worried as i will be fitting the 360 up on the top of case and h220 rad on bottom ,
> could the pump run dry
> 
> basic pic of the lay out


throw a small res in above the pump ! then you should be fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you essentially have to either buy a seperate res and try to have it above the block, or be patient when it comes to bleeding the unit of air bubbles. I recently attached a GPU block into my loop, and due to case constraints, none of my 2 reservoirs are above my block(h220 res is at way bottom like your picture one, other res is at the back of the case for ease of refilling externally). I used up a whole day while bleeding my loop with my case on its side, as at the time the pump would not move water on the cases upright position. I moved it back 2 days ago and now the pump works fine. for ease of use, get an extra reservoir if possible. If you are going to go through the loop as you pictured, just have the patience to bleed, as it is not an instant process.
> 
> on the side note, that's a lot of radiator space for a CPU? are you expanding any time soon?


you should see some of my loops i have 2x360s for just a 3930k and when i add one gpu into it i will be adding a mosta 480 XD


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you essentially have to either buy a seperate res and try to have it above the block, or be patient when it comes to bleeding the unit of air bubbles. I recently attached a GPU block into my loop, and due to case constraints, none of my 2 reservoirs are above my block(h220 res is at way bottom like your picture one, other res is at the back of the case for ease of refilling externally). I used up a whole day while bleeding my loop with my case on its side, as at the time the pump would not move water on the cases upright position. I moved it back 2 days ago and now the pump works fine. for ease of use, get an extra reservoir if possible. If you are going to go through the loop as you pictured, just have the patience to bleed, as it is not an instant process.
> 
> on the side note, that's a lot of radiator space for a CPU? are you expanding any time soon?


thank for help , i going to get 290 block soon ,


----------



## jumpman

Is having the cooler in a push/pull config worth it? Approximately how much can I lower my temps with push/pull.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Is having the cooler in a push/pull config worth it? Approximately how much can I lower my temps with push/pull.


The difference is very small. 1-2c is about average using the stock fans.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The difference is very small. 1-2c is about average using the stock fans.


this. just get one set of good fans like GTs or Noctuas and be done with it. P/P not really needed/worth the increase in noise.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Is having the cooler in a push/pull config worth it? Approximately how much can I lower my temps with push/pull.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The difference is very small. 1-2c is about average using the stock fans.
> 
> 
> 
> this. just get one set of good fans like GTs or Noctuas and be done with it. P/P not really needed/worth the increase in noise.
Click to expand...

basicaly push pull on any thin rad, no matter how many ppl say it is better, really isnt, you are lucky if you get 1c diff, if you get 2c, i think you need better fans, on thin rads ~45mm or less, you dont need push-pull on thicker rads it becomes quite helpful !


----------



## Dudewitbow

in a sens
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> basicaly push pull on any thin rad, no matter how many ppl say it is better, really isnt, you are lucky if you get 1c diff, if you get 2c, i think you need better fans, on thin rads ~45mm or less, you dont need push-pull on thicker rads it becomes quite helpful !


thick rads or high FPI rads(e.g I wouldn't run low rpm fans on Black Ice GT Stealths)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> in a sens
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> basicaly push pull on any thin rad, no matter how many ppl say it is better, really isnt, you are lucky if you get 1c diff, if you get 2c, i think you need better fans, on thin rads ~45mm or less, you dont need push-pull on thicker rads it becomes quite helpful !
> 
> 
> 
> thick rads or high FPI rads(e.g I wouldn't run low rpm fans on Black Ice GT Stealths)
Click to expand...

i never said anything about low rpm fans i said push pull is not needed on thin rads does not matter on FPI that is a different matter, but even high FPI only one fan is needed but the key is the right fan, you need to know what you are building for, silence or performance


----------



## Misbehaven

I'm getting ready to do a case swap from a CM Haf-XB to a Corsair Air 540. I was thinking of adding a second 280 or 360 radiator into the loop. Also I might run water to the south bridge on my Formula VI. Will the Glacer pump be able to handle the extra radiator?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Misbehaven*
> 
> I'm getting ready to do a case swap from a CM Haf-XB to a Corsair Air 540. I was thinking of adding a second 280 or 360 radiator into the loop. Also I might run water to the south bridge on my Formula VI. Will the Glacer pump be able to handle the extra radiator?


Yes, without a problem.


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you essentially have to either buy a seperate res and try to have it above the block, or be patient when it comes to bleeding the unit of air bubbles. I recently attached a GPU block into my loop, and due to case constraints, none of my 2 reservoirs are above my block(h220 res is at way bottom like your picture one, other res is at the back of the case for ease of refilling externally). I used up a whole day while bleeding my loop with my case on its side, as at the time the pump would not move water on the cases upright position. I moved it back 2 days ago and now the pump works fine. for ease of use, get an extra reservoir if possible. If you are going to go through the loop as you pictured, just have the patience to bleed, as it is not an instant process.
> 
> on the side note, that's a lot of radiator space for a CPU? are you expanding any time soon?


friend of my is selling THERMALTAKE Aqua Bay M3 res. will this work if i get 3/8 id tubing for lot. or should i get something newer


----------



## grunion

Is it normal for the 240L to start gurgling after 3mos of use?


----------



## CM MR HAF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What kind of tweaks? I know many will want a 360 version in the US.[/quot
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Is it normal for the 240L to start gurgling after 3mos of use?
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like you have an air bubble, when was the last time you topped up the unit, or move the cooler to another position?
Click to expand...


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> It sounds like you have an air bubble, when was the last time you topped up the unit, or move the cooler to another position?


Haven't topped it yet.

Did however move it from vertical to horizontal last month.
So just follow the instructions in the OP?


----------



## CM MR HAF

Yes, it should be the case.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Yes, it should be the case.


What's the ideal mount in a Prodigy, vertical or horizontal?


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> What's the ideal mount in a Prodigy, vertical or horizontal?


Vertical, fillport facing up! How does the gurgling sound?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Vertical, fillport facing up! How does the gurgling sound?


Gurgling, more like splashing.
It also appears to be from the rad.

I've got it out now try to isolate the source.
I did remove the fillport and it's full to the rim.


----------



## DOOOLY

I expanded the H220 just a little !







and its my first time getting wet ! I did spill some coolant on me








/


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> I expanded the H220 just a little !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and its my first time getting wet ! I did spill some coolant on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Am I missing something but where is the h220 pump/cpu block?


----------



## DOOOLY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Am I missing something but where is the h220 pump/cpu block?


I decided not to use it, i had to many issues with bubbles. I would get them out of the pump and two or three days later they would be back. I got the mcp655 and the apogee HD.


----------



## JohnReid

2 months later, and the gurgling sound started up again in my Glacer&#8230; sigh.

Only becomes noticeable when the computer starts up (pump at 100%), or when running an intensive rendering session. CPU temps top off around 28C, so I'm not worried enough to deal with the _massive_ hassle of dismantling a work computer to mess around, losing billable hours.

This "AIO" is not exactly what I'd hoped for; won't buy from CM again, that's for damn sure.


----------



## taylorpro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnReid*
> 
> 2 months later, and the gurgling sound started up again in my Glacer&#8230; sigh.
> 
> Only becomes noticeable when the computer starts up (pump at 100%), or when running an intensive rendering session. CPU temps top off around 28C, so I'm not worried enough to deal with the _massive_ hassle of dismantling a work computer to mess around, losing billable hours.
> 
> This "AIO" is not exactly what I'd hoped for; won't buy from CM again, that's for damn sure.


There is literally nothing wrong with your unit or what you're hearing. Little bits of air will move around over time. Bumping the desk will jostle air around. Changing pump speed levels will always stimulate noise because the fluid gets turbulent at higher speeds; especially if you run the pump at a low speed most of the time. What I'm getting at is though we'd think once the air is gone, its gone, its not always the case, especially with these smaller components. My roommate' H220 ran since release at lower speeds daily and still gargles from time to time to this day.


----------



## AFewTeammates

I posted this as a new thread, but perhaps this is a better place to ask this big long question.... I feel this crowd might give me clearer answers

Shouldn't this be roughly similar in cooling?

240mm Radiator (eg. Swiftech H220 or even a custom with single 240 slim rad) = Arctic Accelero Hybrid (GPU) + Corsair H60 or similar (CPU)

I'm trying to understand something here. There is a lot of back and forth about whether a 240 rad can effectively cool a CPU + GPU, some say it can, some say it can't. I was just kinda doing some mental math and looking at cooling options and I don't see why it couldn't... even if it isn't running "cold" and runs more warm to work.

It seems the Accelero Hybrid can cool a GTX 780 or Titan quite well (rated for up to 320w) with basically the equivalent of an H60 plus a fan for the VRMs, etc. It also seems as though the H60 works just fine for cooling a CPU (obviously no intense overclocking, but for stock or very mild overclocks, seems to do fine if you are ok with only mediocre temps).

I also understand having both items in the same loop instead of separate has an impact as well, but does it really have THAT big of an impact to where it is no longer a viable option to run it in more of a "quiet/warm" setup or perhaps a "loud/cool(not cold)" setup?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taylorpro*
> 
> There is literally nothing wrong with your unit or what you're hearing. Little bits of air will move around over time. Bumping the desk will jostle air around. Changing pump speed levels will always stimulate noise because the fluid gets turbulent at higher speeds; especially if you run the pump at a low speed most of the time. What I'm getting at is though we'd think once the air is gone, its gone, its not always the case, especially with these smaller components. My roommate' H220 ran since release at lower speeds daily and still gargles from time to time to this day.


This is absolutely correct. I have one of these kits on my work computer here and every now and then it will make a some noise. Particularly at startup or when I'm doing anything that stresses the system for a prolonged period of time. This is quite normal and doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your kit.


----------



## JohnReid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is absolutely correct. I have one of these kits on my work computer here and every now and then it will make a some noise. Particularly at startup or when I'm doing anything that stresses the system for a prolonged period of time. This is quite normal and doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your kit.


Yeah, my hide is just still a bit chapped since the unit was under-filled when I got it from CM back in January, and I wasted a day screwing around with it to make it not sound like something you'd use to make margaritas in.. It's unnerving to hear what sounds like water going down a drain coming from inside a computer, lol.









Like I said, I'm going to let it slide until I need to clean the loop, but&#8230; hindsight being what it is, I should've just rolled my own custom loop. Thought it'd save time, etc. going the AIO route, but lesson learned.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is absolutely correct. I have one of these kits on my work computer here and every now and then it will make a some noise. Particularly at startup or when I'm doing anything that stresses the system for a prolonged period of time. This is quite normal and doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your kit.


Same can be said for some custom loops too, well mine at least. It will randomly move an air bubble around for 2-3 seconds every now and then. Makes a random sloshing sound probably once or twice a week. It would scare me at first but I've grown used to it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AFewTeammates*
> 
> I posted this as a new thread, but perhaps this is a better place to ask this big long question.... I feel this crowd might give me clearer answers
> 
> Shouldn't this be roughly similar in cooling?
> 
> 240mm Radiator (eg. Swiftech H220 or even a custom with single 240 slim rad) = Arctic Accelero Hybrid (GPU) + Corsair H60 or similar (CPU)
> 
> I'm trying to understand something here. There is a lot of back and forth about whether a 240 rad can effectively cool a CPU + GPU, some say it can, some say it can't. I was just kinda doing some mental math and looking at cooling options and I don't see why it couldn't... even if it isn't running "cold" and runs more warm to work.
> 
> It seems the Accelero Hybrid can cool a GTX 780 or Titan quite well (rated for up to 320w) with basically the equivalent of an H60 plus a fan for the VRMs, etc. It also seems as though the H60 works just fine for cooling a CPU (obviously no intense overclocking, but for stock or very mild overclocks, seems to do fine if you are ok with only mediocre temps).
> 
> I also understand having both items in the same loop instead of separate has an impact as well, but does it really have THAT big of an impact to where it is no longer a viable option to run it in more of a "quiet/warm" setup or perhaps a "loud/cool(not cold)" setup?


you can it just is not recommended


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can it just is not recommended


What?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AFewTeammates*
> 
> I posted this as a new thread, but perhaps this is a better place to ask this big long question.... I feel this crowd might give me clearer answers
> 
> Shouldn't this be roughly similar in cooling?
> 
> 240mm Radiator (eg. Swiftech H220 or even a custom with single 240 slim rad) = Arctic Accelero Hybrid (GPU) + Corsair H60 or similar (CPU)
> 
> I'm trying to understand something here. There is a lot of back and forth about whether a 240 rad can effectively cool a CPU + GPU, some say it can, some say it can't. I was just kinda doing some mental math and looking at cooling options and I don't see why it couldn't... even if it isn't running "cold" and runs more warm to work.
> 
> It seems the Accelero Hybrid can cool a GTX 780 or Titan quite well (rated for up to 320w) with basically the equivalent of an H60 plus a fan for the VRMs, etc. It also seems as though the H60 works just fine for cooling a CPU (obviously no intense overclocking, but for stock or very mild overclocks, seems to do fine if you are ok with only mediocre temps).
> 
> I also understand having both items in the same loop instead of separate has an impact as well, but does it really have THAT big of an impact to where it is no longer a viable option to run it in more of a "quiet/warm" setup or perhaps a "loud/cool(not cold)" setup?


I responded to your post in the thread you started....
http://www.overclock.net/t/1473869/arctic-accelero-hybrid-corsair-h60-roughly-single-240mm-radiator

Short answer for in here, yes you can but 360mm would be ideal.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can it just is not recommended
> 
> 
> 
> What?
Click to expand...

you can run a gpu and a cpu on a 240, you can run 2 or 3 gpus, but it is not recommended normal recommendation is 120 rad + 120 x number of components ( you dont _*need*_ to include ram, mobo, vrms, or any other "flair" component in this equation ) but you can


----------



## action3500

Got the Glacer 240L kit installed. The pump is always running at 3600RPM (100%). Is there a way to control it?

The pump has 2 connectors, my understanding one is for power and other one goes into motherboard. I connected it to CPU fan connector and tried to lower the speed manually using speedfan, it still runs at 100% (which is extremely loud and annoying). I connected regular PWM fan to the same CPU connector and played around with speedfan, it works just fine, I can increase and decrease speed of it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *action3500*
> 
> Got the Glacer 240L kit installed. The pump is always running at 3600RPM (100%). Is there a way to control it?
> 
> The pump has 2 connectors, my understanding one is for power and other one goes into motherboard. I connected it to CPU fan connector and tried to lower the speed manually using speedfan, it still runs at 100% (which is extremely loud and annoying). I connected regular PWM fan to the same CPU connector and played around with speedfan, it works just fine, I can increase and decrease speed of it.


are you sure you have it set to pwm in bios ? ( cpu fan )


----------



## action3500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you have it set to pwm in bios ? ( cpu fan )


I have Asus P8 P67 Pro Rev 3.1 Motherboard. There is no straight up "PWM" mode setting for CPU fan. I tried pretty much all possible modes (normal, standard, silent, etc). I also tried to disable QControl completely, etc.

My concern is that when I plug other fan, it changes the speed. You think CPU header is in voltage mode for all these modes that I tried and there's only one (if any) setting that puts in PWM mode? Getting desperate here, been at it for over 3 hours.

In Speedfan under "advanced" setting it says "PWM Mode" and I set it to manual.

I think it's a lemon pump, not sure how often that happens. Not sure if I want to exchange it and give it another go or just return the kit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *action3500*
> 
> I have Asus P8 P67 Pro Rev 3.1 Motherboard. There is no straight up "PWM" mode setting for CPU fan. I tried pretty much all possible modes (normal, standard, silent, etc). I also tried to disable QControl completely, etc.
> 
> My concern is that when I plug other fan, it changes the speed. You think CPU header is in voltage mode for all these modes that I tried and there's only one (if any) setting that puts in PWM mode? Getting desperate here, been at it for over 3 hours.
> 
> In Speedfan under "advanced" setting it says "PWM Mode" and I set it to manual.
> 
> I think it's a lemon pump, not sure how often that happens. Not sure if I want to exchange it and give it another go or just return the kit.


Make sure you have all fan settings in bios disabled.
For Speedfan you need to set the correct settings under advance for the CPU header.
Select which one is for the fan used which is likely Nuvoton. Set all PWM to manual and be sure to select remember.
Be sure to check all CPU boxes Speeds and Fans.


----------



## Dudewitbow

in my case with my asus board(p8z77-v le plus) my pump did not respond to speedfan very well. was forced to use AI suite


----------



## action3500

Did not respond at all? In my case it does not budge under any setting, constant full speed. And why would other fan work( reconnected fan while PC was running) and pump not? It is an electrical process PWM that is.

Update:

Installed the Asus AI Suite with Fan Xpert (another hour trying to find version that will work with windows 8.1 and my board). Fan Xpert says that pump can not be speed controlled, reads out constant 3600 RPM.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *action3500*
> 
> Did not respond at all? In my case it does not budge under any setting, constant full speed. And why would other fan work( reconnected fan while PC was running) and pump not? It is an electrical process PWM that is.
> 
> Update:
> 
> Installed the Asus AI Suite with Fan Xpert (another hour trying to find version that will work with windows 8.1 and my board). Fan Xpert says that pump can not be speed controlled, reads out constant 3600 RPM.


I just did a Google search and it seems that there are some issues with PWM control and Windows 8.1. It's possible that your OS is causing your issue. Have you tried contacting Asus to see if they have any known issues of this kind?


----------



## action3500

I have windows 7 PC, I'll try to hook up the kit to that PC and see how it responds. I'll let you know how that went later today.


----------



## Tennobanzai

How can I tell which H220 revision I have? Would I have to take apart the pump to tell?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> How can I tell which H220 revision I have? Would I have to take apart the pump to tell?


There really isn't any way to tell which revision you have except by opening the pump. This isn't advisable unless you have an actual issue and we (meaning me) walk you through the process.

If you decide to do it on your own, and something goes wrong, then you've voided your warranty and there won't be anything I can do for you.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There really isn't any way to tell which revision you have except by opening the pump. This isn't advisable unless you have an actual issue and we (meaning me) walk you through the process.
> 
> If you decide to do it on your own, and something goes wrong, then you've voided your warranty and there won't be anything I can do for you.


Ok I rather not go that route of voiding the warranty.

What are the most common issues to look after? I believe the H220 was bought in December.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Ok I rather not go that route of voiding the warranty.
> 
> What are the most common issues to look after? I believe the H220 was bought in December.


If you purchased it in December then it should have all of our latest revisions. Has the pump been noisy or have you experienced any performance issues?


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you purchased it in December then it should have all of our latest revisions. Has the pump been noisy or have you experienced any performance issues?


Nope, I just wanted to make sure before I install it in my MITX PC.


----------



## AFewTeammates

Is it possible to just remove the top piece (just the honeycomb looking part with the logo) so I can rotate it? I had to mount it a different direction to fit on my motherboard, and I just want the logo orientation to be correct. Maybe it just pops off, but I want to ask first because it sure takes a lot of force it if does.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AFewTeammates*
> 
> Is it possible to just remove the top piece (just the honeycomb looking part with the logo) so I can rotate it? I had to mount it a different direction to fit on my motherboard, and I just want the logo orientation to be correct. Maybe it just pops off, but I want to ask first because it sure takes a lot of force it if does.


Yes, it's just held on by an adhesive. But they're two tabs to help align it so you'll only be able to flip it 2 directions if I remember correctly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AFewTeammates*
> 
> Is it possible to just remove the top piece (just the honeycomb looking part with the logo) so I can rotate it? I had to mount it a different direction to fit on my motherboard, and I just want the logo orientation to be correct. Maybe it just pops off, but I want to ask first because it sure takes a lot of force it if does.


Yes, this can be done. There is a little bit of glue that holds it on as well. What you'll need to do is use a sharp knife or a razor blade to break the seal made by the glue. Don't use too much force when doing this or you'll break the two small pins that fit into the pump top. Once the seal made by the glue is broken you should be able to remove the honey comb top fairly easily.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Actually my H220 was bought in September. Would this be possibility of having one of the early versions?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Actually my H220 was bought in September. Would this be possibility of having one of the early versions?


Yeah, it's possible. Like I said though, there's really no way to know for sure until you open the pump.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AFewTeammates*
> 
> Is it possible to just remove the top piece (just the honeycomb looking part with the logo) so I can rotate it? I had to mount it a different direction to fit on my motherboard, and I just want the logo orientation to be correct. Maybe it just pops off, but I want to ask first because it sure takes a lot of force it if does.


Like others said yes *BUT* do not do it unless you need to rotate it 180*, due to the mounting tabs it will not rotate in 90* rotations, only 180*

I personally wish it wasnt glued on though, I like the look without the honeycomb, there is a nice swiftech logo in the center.


----------



## AFewTeammates

Works great!... nice and quiet. Thanks Swiftech (yes, I know I need some blue RAM instead of red, lol.) I have also discovered my camera doesn't like blue LEDs.


----------



## grunion

I relocated the rad. front mount/vertically in my Prodigy.

So far so good, gurgling has stopped.


----------



## Ccovey

Hello All,

Been a lurker for a bit and my bad news as drawn me to join.....

So I loved my CM Glacer 240L up until it caught fire 5 weeks after I bought it. I seem to recall this had come up before though I have not back tracked through all 948 pages/

I am wondering who else have gone though Coolermasters warranty claims and how good they are about replacing the unit?

As I found once we made the frantic sniff test around the house to figure out where the electrical burning was coming from....


Close up once I got it back out of the case...


The SATA cable completely burnt thought and basically fell off.

I know there is a given defective rate in any electronics and I am hoping CM handles it properly.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ccovey*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Been a lurker for a bit and my bad news as drawn me to join.....
> 
> So I loved my CM Glacer 240L up until it caught fire 5 weeks after I bought it. I seem to recall this had come up before though I have not back tracked through all 948 pages/
> 
> I am wondering who else have gone though Coolermasters warranty claims and how good they are about replacing the unit?
> 
> As I found once we made the frantic sniff test around the house to figure out where the electrical burning was coming from....
> 
> 
> Close up once I got it back out of the case...
> 
> 
> The SATA cable completely burnt thought and basically fell off.
> 
> I know there is a given defective rate in any electronics and I am hoping CM handles it properly.





before you and everyone else say i am saying you did this i am not, but why is every one of these look like they have been drug about by the cord ? they always do this right where the wire goes into the pump


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> before you and everyone else say i am saying you did this i am not, but why is every one of these look like they have been drug about by the cord ? they always do this right where the wire goes into the pump


Yeah I remember the last one that was posted in here was the same spot....well it was the only other one I saw. Think an apogee drive 2 owner posted in here too. Im wondering if people are not being mindful about it and doing a hard 90* bend in the wire at the casing rather than giving it some slack? Oh well. So far its been 3months and I have no issues...knock on cheap ikea wood desk.


----------



## Ccovey

Do keep in mind this was after it had burnt itself in half.


----------



## 66racer

Good luck with the claim, I'm sure it will get replaced promptly. Thankfully seems like no other damage was done, that would be the hard part of getting reimbursement for consequential damage.


----------



## action3500

So the pump was dead on the unit I bought (running at 3600 RPM constantly).

After some extensive troubleshooting, I exchanged it at local MC and finally installed it. Running pump @ 2500RPM now and fans on radiator @ 40%. Seems to have unlimited cooling potential (aka, overkill for a processor I have 2500K @ 4.5GHz).

Prior to Glacer I had Thermalright Silver Arrow and temperature of processor would go up above 50C and sometimes up to 60C after a while (I have good ventilation in Level 10 GT case), but with Glacer it rarely goes above 40C when testing with Prime 95 even after a while.

Next step is custom loop, since current system is pretty maxed out. Maybe in a year. . .


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *action3500*
> 
> So the pump was dead on the unit I bought (running at 3600 RPM constantly).
> 
> After some extensive troubleshooting, I exchanged it at local MC and finally installed it. Running pump @ 2500RPM now and fans on radiator @ 40%. Seems to have unlimited cooling potential (aka, overkill for a processor I have 2500K @ 4.5GHz).
> 
> Prior to Glacer I had Thermalright Silver Arrow and temperature of processor would go up above 50C and sometimes up to 60C after a while (I have good ventilation in Level 10 GT case), but with Glacer it rarely goes above 40C when testing with Prime 95 even after a while.
> 
> Next step is custom loop, since current system is pretty maxed out. Maybe in a year. . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup there. What you can do if you like to tinker is just get some EK universal gpu coolers to replace the h60 type ones you have on the gpu's. Likely its not necessary though but I saw 9-10c drop in temps from my h70 on the gtx770 to the ek universal one I mentioned. I went with that since I tend to do at least one gpu a year so getting married to a full block would have cost me in the long run.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks.html


----------



## M3TAl

I also got about a 10C drop going from a Kuhler 620 w/ p/p fans to a universal EK Supremacy VGA block. Swiftech makes universal ones too, like the MCW82.


----------



## Dudewitbow

using my universal block(Heatkiller), Idle dropped by ~9c and load at ~20c (went to run unigine valley as confirmation, about 20c just now(~60c to 40c on the same clocks/voltages)) on 360mm total rad space. I would think that hotter chips would see a larger delta T once they slap a block on


----------



## action3500

Those 2 video cards is what got me into liquid cooling in the first place. They were so f-ing hot that I got liquid cooling on day 2 of owning them, lucked out and got those coolers on sale. Did not realize at the time that not all pumps/radiators/fitting etc. are created equal. So when it came to CPU i wanted to get the best AIO on the market (US market that is) and this time did some research. Also, cards are running @ around 60C under full load, which is not bad, since they were running @ 90C with OEM coolers.

Even with custom loop I will stick to universal VGA blocks as it seems a lot more cost effective and I don't mind cooling VRMs with 200mm case side-fan.


----------



## passinos

added a 280mm Rad, Micro Res and Syscooling Full jacket on the 7970.
First power up and does not seem like pump is working now.

Took a half bottle of Swiftech fluid
Seems to have a bit a back pressure when I remove a tube and check suction and pressurizing.

Will pump run a full speed without PWM header plugged in?

I did not unmount the cpu/pump during the expansion process.

Any thoughts?

Thanks


----------



## CoolProject

hello guys, what is the best thermal paste to use for the Swiftech H320?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> hello guys, what is the best thermal paste to use for the Swiftech H320?


technically, the best would be coolaboratory liquid pro, but its application is generally like glue, near permanent. a common choices for high end I would think would be Gelid Extreme


----------



## CoolProject

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> technically, the best would be coolaboratory liquid pro, but its application is generally like glue, near permanent. a common choices for high end I would think would be Gelid Extreme


and what do you think of the collaboratory ultra?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> and what do you think of the collaboratory ultra?


coollabs is top tier stuff, the problem is that its sorta like paste, it likes to be a permanent seal and is pretty hard to remove if you ever get to the point where you need to remove the block. It is not beginner friendly stuff.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> added a 280mm Rad, Micro Res and Syscooling Full jacket on the 7970.
> First power up and does not seem like pump is working now.
> 
> Took a half bottle of Swiftech fluid
> Seems to have a bit a back pressure when I remove a tube and check suction and pressurizing.
> 
> Will pump run a full speed without PWM header plugged in?
> 
> I did not unmount the cpu/pump during the expansion process.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks


yes it will sounds like you have a air bubble in the pump


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> added a 280mm Rad, Micro Res and Syscooling Full jacket on the 7970.
> First power up and does not seem like pump is working now.
> 
> Took a half bottle of Swiftech fluid
> Seems to have a bit a back pressure when I remove a tube and check suction and pressurizing.
> 
> Will pump run a full speed without PWM header plugged in?
> 
> I did not unmount the cpu/pump during the expansion process.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes it will sounds like you have a air bubble in the pump


Can an air bubble stop the flow all together?
How can I remove it?
PWM from pump is showing 2950-3000 rpm.

Thanks


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Can an air bubble stop the flow all together?
> How can I remove it?
> PWM from pump is showing 2950-3000 rpm.
> 
> Thanks


did you try running the unit while the case is on its side(pretty much forces the microres to be top of loop)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Can an air bubble stop the flow all together?
> How can I remove it?
> PWM from pump is showing 2950-3000 rpm.
> 
> Thanks


it is called air lock


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Can an air bubble stop the flow all together?
> How can I remove it?
> PWM from pump is showing 2950-3000 rpm.
> 
> Thanks


Removed the pump to isolate issue and pump doesn't turn on. I used the PSU in the PC through splitter and also a stand alone PSU.
I think my Pump is dead and
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> did you try running the unit while the case is on its side(pretty much forces the microres to be top of loop)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is called air lock


Thanks Guys. I am up and running.
Something up with my PSU connector because fans were not spinning either.
Used a 2nd PSU with paperclip and it started running. Went back to Computer PSU and all good.

Res-->Pump/CPU-->280mm Rad-->Ref 7970 GPU-->240mm Rad

CPU 32 / 42
GPU 1 (air) 42 / 72
GPU 2 (water) 37 / 47


----------



## Jugurnot

Hey guys quick question about the pwm splitter. Can I use one of the 8 connectors to run two fans at a time using a Y Splitter?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Hey guys quick question about the pwm splitter. Can I use one of the 8 connectors to run two fans at a time using a Y Splitter?


I wouldn't see why not. the PWM splitter gets its power directly from the PSU, so its generally more stable than using motherboard headers.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I wouldn't see why not. the PWM splitter gets its power directly from the PSU, so its generally more stable than using motherboard headers.


Thanks. Seems to work fine so far.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Keep in mind in parallel flow rates across the GPU are 1/2 system flow rate. I measured the H220 pump/block flow rate to max out around .62 with the h220 rad restriction added in there. The pump/block max was .77
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding just an mcr320 rad (which isn't very restrictive) to the loop will reduce flows to .53 or so. As a guess a complex loop with multiple rads and gpu blocks is probably in the .4-.45 GPM range. Split that in half for parallel and now your gpu is only going to see .2-.25GPM. That's down in the air pockets don't move range and also thermal performance is falling off some. It's still only a couple of degrees between 1 and .5gpm but as you lower to .25 the losses increase.
> 
> The glacier should be higher spinning at 3500rpm but notice how thermal response drops off fairly rapidly at the .3gpm or so rate per Strens titan roundup on some blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would use caution in regard to parallel GPU when system flow rates are below 1GPM. It may be physically possible, you will start loosing some thermal performance as you drop down there. Bleeding is even more difficult. When testing pressure drops I noticed 1/2" ID tube won't even clear bubbles much slower than about .3GPM.
> 
> You could always add another pump in series too.


I just ordered a monsta 80mm 240 and two water blocks that I plan to run in parallel. This post has me concerned. Does any one have any experience with a setup like this? What were the results?

Proposed setup:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> I just ordered a monsta 80mm 240 and two water blocks that I plan to run in parallel. This post has me concerned. Does any one have any experience with a setup like this? What were the results?
> 
> Proposed setup:


This can work, but bleeding the loop and the pump of air is going to be very tedious. Martin's work is very meticulous, and I would think he's probably just about dead on with his data. You also have to keep in mind that your ambient temperatures will also be a factor. If you live in a climate that is particularly warm, and you don't have any AC, then you may have issues with keeping your temperatures at optimal levels. I think your main issue though will be trying to bleed all of the air out of a loop in a configuration like that.


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ccovey*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Been a lurker for a bit and my bad news as drawn me to join.....
> 
> So I loved my CM Glacer 240L up until it caught fire 5 weeks after I bought it. I seem to recall this had come up before though I have not back tracked through all 948 pages/
> 
> I am wondering who else have gone though Coolermasters warranty claims and how good they are about replacing the unit?
> 
> As I found once we made the frantic sniff test around the house to figure out where the electrical burning was coming from....
> 
> 
> Close up once I got it back out of the case...
> 
> 
> The SATA cable completely burnt thought and basically fell off.
> 
> I know there is a given defective rate in any electronics and I am hoping CM handles it properly.


Hello Ccovey,

We apologize for the issue with your Glacer. Can you please respond to my PM with your email address so that i can send you the RMA information and a return shipping label for the product.

Please let me know if you have any more questions.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This can work, but bleeding the loop and the pump of air is going to be very tedious. Martin's work is very meticulous, and I would think he's probably just about dead on with his data. You also have to keep in mind that your ambient temperatures will also be a factor. If you live in a climate that is particularly warm, and you don't have any AC, then you may have issues with keeping your temperatures at optimal levels. I think your main issue though will be trying to bleed all of the air out of a loop in a configuration like that.


Brian what do you think I could do to make this loop more viable?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Brian what do you think I could do to make this loop more viable?


What I would do is either put in a separate reservoir to allow for easier bleeding of air, or add a second pump to improve your flow rate. You could also do both, but I would think if you simply added a second pump then you really wouldn't need the additional reservoir for bleeding purposes.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What I would do is either put in a separate reservoir to allow for easier bleeding of air, or add a second pump to improve your flow rate. You could also do both, but I would think if you simply added a second pump then you really wouldn't need the additional reservoir for bleeding purposes.


Thanks Brian, I'm going to put my order on hold while I re-evaluate my plan.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What I would do is either put in a separate reservoir to allow for easier bleeding of air, or add a second pump to improve your flow rate. You could also do both, but I would think if you simply added a second pump then you really wouldn't need the additional reservoir for bleeding purposes.


Crazy question here, is there anyway to replace the H220 motor with a more powerful one?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Crazy question here, is there anyway to replace the H220 motor with a more powerful one?


Not presently, but we will be releasing a stand alone version that is much more powerful. It will be our new MCP50X and it will be able to drop right into the H220 pump housing as a replacement.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not presently, but we will be releasing a stand alone version that is much more powerful. It will be our new MCP50X and it will be able to drop right into the H220 pump housing as a replacement.












Seriously, what's the best way to stay in the loop on that?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Seriously, what's the best way to stay in the loop on that?


When it's released we will be announcing it here. So keep checking back here and on our Facebook page for updates.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not presently, but we will be releasing a stand alone version that is much more powerful. It will be our new MCP50X and it will be able to drop right into the H220 pump housing as a replacement.


You just made my day!!!


----------



## gagac1971

hello to all here i just got today h 220 and already installed on my nzxt phantom 410 case and my question is how do i change pump rpm in asus z 87 sabertooth bios?thanks for your help


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not presently, but we will be releasing a stand alone version that is much more powerful. It will be our new MCP50X and it will be able to drop right into the H220 pump housing as a replacement.


After reading martins review he seems to indicate that both the H220 block and radiator are very restrictive. Would it really be worth it cost/performance wise to upgrade to your new pump. Say I were to junk the h220 rad and keep the block/pump combo and add a better less restrictive rad. Would this improve performance enough or would the high restriction of the Block still act as a large bottleneck.


----------



## action3500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gagac1971*
> 
> hello to all here i just got today h 220 and already installed on my nzxt phantom 410 case and my question is how do i change pump rpm in asus z 87 sabertooth bios?thanks for your help


I would not bother with bios. You can either download Asus Fan Xpert (part of Asus Ai Suite) or SpeedFan to control speed of pump from desktop. Make sure pump is connected to CPU header on motherboard for PWM control.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not presently, but we will be releasing a stand alone version that is much more powerful. It will be our new MCP50X and it will be able to drop right into the H220 pump housing as a replacement.


Oh wow, you all have already stuck a gold mine there!

Count me in, where is the pre-order?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gagac1971*
> 
> hello to all here i just got today h 220 and already installed on my nzxt phantom 410 case and my question is how do i change pump rpm in asus z 87 sabertooth bios?thanks for your help


If you have it connected to a pwm fan header (cpu is the only one on an asus I know of) you should be able to control it in the bios, AI fan xpert, or speedfan (needs setup). The easiest would be to just install AI suite and use fan xpert. When I install AI suite I personally only install the fan xpert program since I dont use any of the other features.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> After reading martins review he seems to indicate that both the H220 block and radiator are very restrictive. Would it really be worth it cost/performance wise to upgrade to your new pump. Say I were to junk the h220 rad and keep the block/pump combo and add a better less restrictive rad. Would this improve performance enough or would the high restriction of the Block still act as a large bottleneck.


Yeah I read that too, Im hoping within the next month or so I will be able to get another 240mm radiator to find out for myself. I cant imagine large temp drops but I just like to tinker so it will be interesting to see what happens. I dont know if anyone in here has only changed the 240mm radiator to find that out.


----------



## Nightingale

I'm not knocking swiftech for the h220 design, It's a wonderful AIO cooler. However once you begin to contemplate expansion such as adding a 60MM 360 RAD and gpu block you have to wonder how much performance loss is there is going to be due to restriction/bottle neck of both the Block-Pump and rad. Martin had said the radiator had a .62 GPM flow rate.
Quote:


> In the end, the H220 and H100i are both generally high restriction radiators compared to their DIY counterparts by about *5-6X*. While radiators are generally low in restriction compared to CPU blocks, the H220 radiator is not and measured on the high side compared to usual DIY rads.


So essentially I am thinking of scrapping the rad and just adding a proper 60mm 360 RAD. I also have on hand a second pump *DD-CPX-Pro* which I would add to the loop for added power.


----------



## M3TAl

I'd add another pump to run in series before taking out a rad though. The H220 rad might be more restrictive than a lot of other rads but in the grand scheme it's still not that restrictive. Heck throw in one of the Jingway (EK, Phobya, etc) pumps in series with H220 and you should have plenty of flow with virtually no extra noise.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *action3500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gagac1971*
> 
> hello to all here i just got today h 220 and already installed on my nzxt phantom 410 case and my question is how do i change pump rpm in asus z 87 sabertooth bios?thanks for your help
> 
> 
> 
> I would not bother with bios. You can either download Asus Fan Xpert (part of Asus Ai Suite) or SpeedFan to control speed of pump from desktop. Make sure pump is connected to CPU header on motherboard for PWM control.
Click to expand...

i use aquaero 6 and highly recommend it, nothing better
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I'm not knocking swiftech for the h220 design, It's a wonderful AIO cooler. However once you begin to contemplate expansion such as adding a 60MM 360 RAD and gpu block you have to wonder how much performance loss is there is going to be due to restriction/bottle neck of both the Block-Pump and rad. Martin had said the radiator had a .62 GPM flow rate.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, the H220 and H100i are both generally high restriction radiators compared to their DIY counterparts by about *5-6X*. While radiators are generally low in restriction compared to CPU blocks, the H220 radiator is not and measured on the high side compared to usual DIY rads.
> 
> 
> 
> So essentially I am thinking of scrapping the rad and just adding a proper 60mm 360 RAD. I also have on hand a second pump *DD-CPX-Pro* which I would add to the loop for added power.
Click to expand...

hate to tell you this but you generally want to be ~ .5gpm or above, also most standalone rads are not restrictive enough to worry about, plenty of people use the h220 pump on 1 or 2 gpus,

cpu blocks are also the most restrictive period, it is normal


----------



## xulos

After annoying sound from my RMA-d h220 (yes first one had faulty pump too) , i decided to disassembly this one, and i was shocked.



http://imgur.com/lYM4OVg




http://imgur.com/amVBiA4


Beautiful, isnt it. Changed coolant with distilled water, kill coil and biocid. Now, pump is dead silent and working flawlesly. Im really dissapointed with swiftech quality now, and i doubt that i would recommend your products to anyone...


----------



## hornedfrog86

Amazing, how many are like this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> After annoying sound from my RMA-d h220 (yes first one had faulty pump too) , i decided to disassembly this one, and i was shocked.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/lYM4OVg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/amVBiA4
> 
> 
> Beautiful, isnt it. Changed coolant with distilled water, kill coil and biocid. Now, pump is dead silent and working flawlesly. Im really dissapointed with swiftech quality now, and i doubt that i would recommend your products to anyone...


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Our coolant here is filtered before it's used in these kits. It's very unusual to see an algae buildup of this kind in our coolant also because of the biocidal properties of our coolant. How long have you had this replacement and have you opened it or expanded it since you've received it?


----------



## xulos

I've got my replacement in 12 month 2013, that means its about 3 month old. I never opened it and add anything in the loop, just installed it as it is. Few days ago i opened fill port and i saw sth white floating on the coolant and my face was *** . I disassembled whole pump, and cooper plate was full of that white thing, all of that tiny passes in cpu block was cloged. I washed it with tiny brush and clear all of that. Today i replaced coolant, flushed whole system with distilled water, filled again, and as i said before, pump is quiet and ive got lower temps 3-5 c in idle, didnt test load yet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> I've got my replacement in 12 month 2013, that means its about 3 month old. I never opened it and add anything in the loop, just installed it as it is. Few days ago i opened fill port and i saw sth white floating on the coolant and my face was *** . I disassembled whole pump, and cooper plate was full of that white thing, all of that tiny passes in cpu block was cloged. I washed it with tiny brush and clear all of that. Today i replaced coolant, flushed whole system with distilled water, filled again, and as i said before, pump is quiet and ive got lower temps 3-5 c in idle, didnt test load yet.


OK, was this kit replaced by us in the United States or by Bacata? I need to know so that I can determine how this might have occurred and how best to prevent it in the future.


----------



## xulos

Bought kit in Italy in local shop (pixmania.it) and they replace it with new one.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Bought kit in Italy in local shop (pixmania.it) and they replace it with new one.


OK, thank you for this information. I'll make sure that this doesn't happen again.


----------



## xulos

your welcome, i hope it wont happen again.


----------



## soad666p

well i think my pump has failed only less the month


----------



## Dudewitbow

to be the other bearer of bad news, I want to say mines went out as well, being in my 3rd month. though it doesnt help that my main hands finger joint has a bug bite on it. tis pretty painful when something applies pressure to it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> well i think my pump has failed only less the month


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> to be the other bearer of bad news, I want to say mines went out as well, being in my 3rd month. though it doesnt help that my main hands finger joint has a bug bite on it. tis pretty painful when something applies pressure to it.


Please PM me so that I can assist you with this.


----------



## kevindd992002

What is up with all this quality issues just after 3 months of use?


----------



## soad666p

i think my fault was the mobo reading the pump wrong, i refitted the block and it worked, i will be running it for 24 hours just to make sure


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Anyone know where I can get replacement LGA1150 mounting screws for the pump/block? Mine are stripped and I need a new set for my next build.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I came home last night to my computer shut off. Didn't remember shutting it off so it was a surprise to me. I turn it back on and realized it's running kinda slow. I look over at my temps and each core is at 100c and my cpu is downclocked 2ghz. So I go to feel the tubing on my H220 and it's not warm at all so I'm hoping it's just reading it wrong. Then the computer shuts off by itself. I go to feel the bottom part of the cpu block/pump and it's burning hot. Turns out the pump died on me. Sucks this happened, I just got my H220 working properly after having troubles with air bubbles. I'm lucky my cpu didn't burn out or something. Looks like it's time for RMA.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I came home last night to my computer shut off. Didn't remember shutting it off so it was a surprise to me. I turn it back on and realized it's running kinda slow. I look over at my temps and each core is at 100c and my cpu is downclocked 2ghz. So I go to feel the tubing on my H220 and it's not warm at all so I'm hoping it's just reading it wrong. Then the computer shuts off by itself. I go to feel the bottom part of the cpu block/pump and it's burning hot. Turns out the pump died on me. Sucks this happened, I just got my H220 working properly after having troubles with air bubbles. I'm lucky my cpu didn't burn out or something. Looks like it's time for RMA.


all cpus in modern times have a thermal max that they shut down on, which should not hurt them if it is only done once or twice,


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all cpus in modern times have a thermal max that they shut down on, which should not hurt them if it is only done once or twice,


Yeah, computer wouldn't even stay on until I let it cool down. I swapped it out right away with my old Antec 620 AIO. Seems to be running normal so no damage was done.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Yeah, computer wouldn't even stay on until I let it cool down. I swapped it out right away with my old Antec 620 AIO. Seems to be running normal so no damage was done.


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting it replaced.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> Thanks for the help. I wound up just taking out the rad/res, cycling the pump and shaking everything around until the big bubbles worked themselves out. The pump makes bubbling noises every once in awhile, but I think its more bubbles working themselves out. Will bleed it more later. Temps are now 36-40C at idle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeTheTiger*
> 
> I have it crammed into an NCase M1


Admittedly I'm a little behind on reading all the posts, so I don't know if someone else addressed this, but if your rig sits upright like that with the rad on its side, you have effectively have no reservoir in your loop. So you will be constantly getting air bubbles in your pump. To recify this, you either try to fit a micro res in the loop, or turn the rig sideways, so that the res is facing upward to catch air bubbles effectively.


----------



## Pahani

I have ZERO experience with water cooling before now. Or overclocking, for that matter. I've only built 1 computer before this. So on the system I'll be building in about a month, I wanted to make it as simple as possible, and overclocking (CPU/GPU) will be on the mild side.

Based on fan noise complaints In the Asus M6F Owner's Club for the H100i that is sitting in the box next to me, I'm junking the H100i. Pre-ordered the H220X this morning. The BIG draw of the Swiftech designs for me are their expandability, as I'd like to include my MB's stock CrossChill cooler into the loop. I ALMOST ordered the H220, but......since I still have a month of waiting to go, figured I could wait for the (supposedly) newest and best component to arrive.

On a cursory glance through this monstrous thread, it seems periodic air bubbles in the H220 pump are normal, but the most common complaint. Will the revised pump location in the 220X help to alleviate this?

Second, and I'm sure this has been asked before but I didn't see.......the design of the pump/reservoir directly below the radiator on the 220X would appear to impede airflow. What steps have been taken to correct or minimize this?

I'm sure there are other questions I'm missing, but my sleep-deprived brain isn't currently functioning well LOL. Thanks for any input!


----------



## MikeTheTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Admittedly I'm a little behind on reading all the posts, so I don't know if someone else addressed this, but if your rig sits upright like that with the rad on its side, you have effectively have no reservoir in your loop. So you will be constantly getting air bubbles in your pump. To recify this, you either try to fit a micro res in the loop, or turn the rig sideways, so that the res is facing upward to catch air bubbles effectively.


I actually took everything apart recently and am going with a different case. However, when I had it running in the case, I did get the vast majority of the air out. I had the case lying on its side until I was confident most of the air was gone. Every once in a while I did hear a "bubbling" sound. It did give me way better temps than just air cooling.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> On a cursory glance through this monstrous thread, it seems periodic air bubbles in the H220 pump are normal, but the most common complaint. Will the revised pump location in the 220X help to alleviate this?
> 
> Second, and I'm sure this has been asked before but I didn't see.......the design of the pump/reservoir directly below the radiator on the 220X would appear to impede airflow. What steps have been taken to correct or minimize this?
> 
> I'm sure there are other questions I'm missing, but my sleep-deprived brain isn't currently functioning well LOL. Thanks for any input!


The design change does two things. It avoids any more issues with Asetek's stupid patent trolling and it allows for air to be purged much more easily. This is also a stronger pump than the H220 so this will also help with performance and the ability to purge air more easily.

Having the reservoir located under the radiator like this really doesn't impede air flow very much at all. Our own testing has shown that the kit really doesn't suffer because of this change in design.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> I have ZERO experience with water cooling before now. Or overclocking, for that matter. I've only built 1 computer before this. So on the system I'll be building in about a month, I wanted to make it as simple as possible, and overclocking (CPU/GPU) will be on the mild side.
> 
> Based on fan noise complaints In the Asus M6F Owner's Club for the H100i that is sitting in the box next to me, I'm junking the H100i. Pre-ordered the H220X this morning. The BIG draw of the Swiftech designs for me are their expandability, as I'd like to include my MB's stock CrossChill cooler into the loop. I ALMOST ordered the H220, but......since I still have a month of waiting to go, figured I could wait for the (supposedly) newest and best component to arrive.
> 
> On a cursory glance through this monstrous thread, it seems periodic air bubbles in the H220 pump are normal, but the most common complaint. Will the revised pump location in the 220X help to alleviate this?
> 
> Second, and I'm sure this has been asked before but I didn't see.......the design of the pump/reservoir directly below the radiator on the 220X would appear to impede airflow. What steps have been taken to correct or minimize this?
> 
> I'm sure there are other questions I'm missing, but my sleep-deprived brain isn't currently functioning well LOL. Thanks for any input!


there is no impeading of airflow, air will move around the pump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> On a cursory glance through this monstrous thread, it seems periodic air bubbles in the H220 pump are normal, but the most common complaint. Will the revised pump location in the 220X help to alleviate this?
> 
> Second, and I'm sure this has been asked before but I didn't see.......the design of the pump/reservoir directly below the radiator on the 220X would appear to impede airflow. What steps have been taken to correct or minimize this?
> 
> I'm sure there are other questions I'm missing, but my sleep-deprived brain isn't currently functioning well LOL. Thanks for any input!
> 
> 
> 
> The design change does two things. It avoids any more issues with Asetek's _*stupid patent trolling*_ and it allows for air to be purged much more easily. This is also a stronger pump than the H220 so this will also help with performance and the ability to purge air more easily.
> 
> Having the reservoir located under the radiator like this really doesn't impede air flow very much at all. Our own testing has shown that the kit really doesn't suffer because of this change in design.
Click to expand...

yep, took the words from my mouth


----------



## cephelix

Add me to the group!!
Got my H220 a few months back but as yet have not installed it as my current case (NZXT Tempest Evo) won't allow me to fit the rad+fan assembly in the proper orientation (fill cap facing up)..


That and a few other annoyances found me with a new 750D!









Swapped the fans out for 2 GT AP-15s and temps have dropped quite a bit compared to my Noctua NH-U12P SE2.
So far so good, product performs splendidly.
Now dangerous ideas of expanding my loop to include my r9 290 are swimming around in my head...


----------



## xulos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The design change does two things. It avoids any more issues with Asetek's stupid patent trolling and it allows for air to be purged much more easily. This is also a stronger pump than the H220 so this will also help with performance and the ability to purge air more easily.
> 
> Having the reservoir located under the radiator like this really doesn't impede air flow very much at all. Our own testing has shown that the kit really doesn't suffer because of this change in design.


it would be nice, to get that revised pump for free or for some minor payment, cause after three days i still have some random bubbles in my pump with that annoying ticlking sound.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> it would be nice, to get that revised pump for free or for some minor payment, cause after three days i still have some random bubbles in my pump with that annoying ticlking sound.


Can you PM me about this and have you tried the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump?


----------



## kevindd992002

@BramSLI1

What is the cause of all these pumps dying especially the one with bacteria buildup after 3 months of use?


----------



## Tcoppock

This cooler outperforms my previous h100 by a long shot.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> What is the cause of all these pumps dying especially the one with bacteria buildup after 3 months of use?


We're looking into it, but rest assured that we're on top of it and this won't happen again.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're looking into it, but rest assured that we're on top of it and this won't happen again.


I hope this won't happen with the new H220X.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Can someone confirm what model is the pump/block for swiftech h320
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

it is custom made by swiftech. there is no MN at presant there is a mcp50x that will work for the pump.

the block is biased off of the apogee drive II but again ... biased


----------



## gagac1971

i just install h 220 whit fans on intake and i can tell you that cooler perform great!!!!difference between h 100i is big for me temp on same processor clock 4.5 ghz on 1.28v drooped almost 10c.great cooler!!!


----------



## mrazster

I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.

Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.

So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.

What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?


----------



## sdmf74

Im pulling air in through both rads and dont have any issues with internal temp buildup with just 1 exhaust fan. I am also watercooling a 780ti Kingpin though, not sure if your GPU exhausts heat into your case. I have used the H220 both ways and I can tell you it's much better to have the rad/res facing up so you can trap air properly. Might wanna fill out your system specs in rigbuilder.


Fillport


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Hi guys i see alot of you mod these closed loop systems and like add bigger rads etc ,
I wanted to ask , I want to to do the same and get a bigger rad and change out the tubings to a nicer looking one.
But how did you reseal the loop ?
I mean i have a Kraken x40 , and i cant find any thread about modding it , so i found this , hope you awesome guys can help me with instructions on how to reclose the loop.
Cheers =)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Hi guys i see alot of you mod these closed loop systems and like add bigger rads etc ,
> I wanted to ask , I want to to do the same and get a bigger rad and change out the tubings to a nicer looking one.
> But how did you reseal the loop ?
> I mean i have a Kraken x40 , and i cant find any thread about modding it , so i found this , hope you awesome guys can help me with instructions on how to reclose the loop.
> Cheers =)


The H220/H320 kits are different because they are meant to be opened and expanded. The radiators for these kits actually have a fill-port and reservoir integrated into them. The Kraken x40 is a completely sealed unit and therefore not meant to be expanded like ours are. Sorry about that.


----------



## Theroty

The Swiftech/Coolermaster kits mentioned in this thread are not closed loop per say. They are expandable systems. The radiator's have fill ports, the tubes can be replaced, more radiators can be added, etc. They do come pre-filled but they are not sealed and intended to be true closed loop kits like the systems from Corsair such as the h100i. So opening them and then re sealing is that big of a deal because they are designed to worked with that way.

Maybe someone else can chime and point you in the direction you need for your Kraken kit.









Edit: Bram beat me to it!


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
> I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
> The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.
> 
> Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.
> 
> So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.
> 
> What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?


If your rad isn't too thick i've seen some mount the 240 on the bottom..
Planning to do that as well when i expand my loop. 360 on top, 240 in the bottom with a tube res next to the mobo. Both would be pulling air into the case with only 1 exhaust at the back
Can't seem to find the pics now but it should be somewhere near the start of the 750d club thread.

edit:


something like this maybe


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im pulling air in through both rads and dont have any issues with internal temp buildup with just 1 exhaust fan. I am also watercooling a 780ti Kingpin though, not sure if your GPU exhausts heat into your case. I have used the H220 both ways and I can tell you it's much better to have the rad/res facing up so you can trap air properly. Might wanna fill out your system specs in rigbuilder.


Yeah I did the "rigbuilder thingy"...and put it in my sig.
Normaly I wouldn´t be that concerned, but since I´m running a powerhug/heatbeast of a cpu I really want the heat out of the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> If your rad isn't too thick i've seen some mount the 240 on the bottom..
> Planning to do that as well when i expand my loop. 360 on top, 240 in the bottom with a tube res next to the mobo. Both would be pulling air into the case with only 1 exhaust at the back
> Can't seem to find the pics now but it should be somewhere near the start of the 750d club thread.


I have been thinking abut doing that...but it would be nice have atleast one of the hdd cages left in the case.
Might need to reconsider thou !


----------



## cephelix

The hdd cage is mounted under the 5.25 bays.....


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> The hdd cage is mounted under the 5.25 bays.....


Haha...omg..didn´t think of that !









THNX !


----------



## action3500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.


I am of the same opinion. I have 2 120mm rads dumping heat into case (from video cards) with top 240mm radiator with exhaust fans. I don't have any issues with heat build up and I doubt that it affects temperature much. In my case I did not want even more dust blowing into case from top, since that side does not have filter (bottom, side and front have filters).


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220/H320 kits are different because they are meant to be opened and expanded. The radiators for these kits actually have a fill-port and reservoir integrated into them. The Kraken x40 is a completely sealed unit and therefore not meant to be expanded like ours are. Sorry about that.


Oh but what if I get a rad with a fill port aswell ?
Could that work ?
Where can i find rads with file ports ?
Im pretty good with a drill I could make a small fill port and plug it using those reusable wine bottle plugs =P

But lets say I cant find a rad with a fill port , would adding a res be a bad idea ? im not too sure about the pumps ability though , but will a res make it more difficult to pump water ?

trying to save as much money as I can on this =-)

And thanks so much for the help guys, If any of you are in Singapore PM and me and we can get some beers =)


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Haha...omg..didn´t think of that !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THNX !


My pleasure, finally i helped someone!!lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh but what if I get a rad with a fill port aswell ?
> Could that work ?


Not really. The reason is that your current kit doesn't come with detachable tubing so you won't be able to route them to an additional radiator. I know that there are those that have modified those closed-loop kits, but I really wouldn't advise it.

The reason for this is that it will likely void your warranty, and if you managed to break something while modifying it then you're out of luck. This is the reason we designed our kits to be expanded right out of the box. The Cooler Master Glacers are the same way because essentially they're our kits with some slight modifications. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh but what if I get a rad with a fill port aswell ?
> Could that work ?


Yep I got it I actually already bought the H220 for my 7970 and its doing very well but i had to route it out of the case and thank goodness for the detachable tubing the rad makes my PC look like a serious peice of hardware which i like, but now I was thinking of doing the same to my kraken x40 =)

thanks for the advice i think im just going to sell my x40 and get a another H220 for my CPU,
gonna get some nice UV blue tubing for it =)


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Yep I got it I actually already bought the H220 for my 7970 and its doing very well but i had to route it out of the case and thank goodness for the detachable tubing the rad makes my PC look like a serious peice of hardware which i like, but now I was thinking of doing the same to my kraken x40 =)
> 
> thanks for the advice i think im just going to sell my x40 and get a another H220 for my CPU,
> gonna get some nice UV blue tubing for it =)


wondering why you'd buy another h220 instead of just expanding your current h220 loop? or are they 2 different rigs altogether?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> wondering why you'd buy another h220 instead of just expanding your current h220 loop? or are they 2 different rigs altogether?


I think they're two different rigs. If not then it really doesn't make much sense.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> wondering why you'd buy another h220 instead of just expanding your current h220 loop? or are they 2 different rigs altogether?


Agreed, you could just add in a cpu block. No need to buy another whole kit.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> wondering why you'd buy another h220 instead of just expanding your current h220 loop? or are they 2 different rigs altogether?


Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)

Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
> I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)
> 
> Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
> I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.


OK, I now understand your situation. Is there some way that you could install a dual 120mm radiator in the bottom of your case? This would be enough radiator surface area to dissipate the added heat load from your CPU.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
> I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)
> 
> Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
> I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.


Same here, Singapore is hot. Just unsure if the card can take the whole weight of the pump over time.
Would the pcb bend over time?
I personally would just expand the loop,adding more rads(eyeing the alphacool st30).
But that's just me.

Also from what i read, and do correct me if i'm wrong here, but most closed loop coolers have aluminium rads,hence the limited cooling capability when compared to full copper rads.
Just switched from a gtx 570 to a r9 290 so I really have no experience about ati cards though.

As what Bram said, if you could install a dual 120mm rad, that should be enough to cool card and cpu.
General rule of thumb, from what I've read here is 120mm of rad per component with a 120mm extra just to be safe


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Same here, Singapore is hot. Just unsure if the card can take the whole weight of the pump over time.
> Would the pcb bend over time?
> I personally would just expand the loop,adding more rads(eyeing the alphacool st30).
> But that's just me.
> 
> Also from what i read, and do correct me if i'm wrong here, but most closed loop coolers have aluminium rads,hence the limited cooling capability when compared to full copper rads.
> Just switched from a gtx 570 to a r9 290 so I really have no experience about ati cards though.


The performance does take a small hit because of the aluminum material of the radiator, but there is also the issue of developing galvanic corrosion because of mixed metals. Just something to also consider if you plan to expand a sealed AIO kit.


----------



## cephelix

ahh,I knew I forgot to mention something...
some sources said that the galvanic corrosion is minimal unless there's some other metal in the loop, can't seem to recall which.
But better be safe than sorry i suppose, unless you have spare moolah to burn.
Thank you for that bram.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
> I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
> The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.
> 
> Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.
> 
> So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.
> 
> What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?


Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.


For the most part this is true. Most cases are not completely sealed units and therefore there are lots of ways for heat to escape. I have my own top and back radiators set to exhaust and my temperatures never get above 45 Celsius. My ambient is also usually around 25 to 27 Celsius. I have two 140mm fans intaking air in the front and my bottom radiator is also set up as an intake.


----------



## sdmf74

[quote Normaly I wouldn´t be that concerned, but since I´m running a powerhug/heatbeast of a cpu I really want the heat out of the case.
[/quote]

Still a non issue in my opinion, I am running my i5 3570k oc to 4.9 Ghz @ 1.4v 24/7 and my K|ngp|n is overvolted to up to 1.35v (1400mhz) sometimes slightly higher V when measured with a DMM during benchmarks.
I am only using 2 rads (no extra res. not yet anyway) and internal case temps are not a concern. After playing BF4 or FC3 for several hours water temp in loop read only 27c (idle is 21c).


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
> I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)
> 
> Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
> I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.


Those temps are way too high for having an H220 or even an x40 on a 7970. Had a kuhler 620 on my 7870 XT (Tahiti LE chip puts out same heat as Tahiti PRO/XT) running 1.25V with 28-29C ambients. It never got anywhere close to 80C+.

Are you sure you're using a proper shim? 7970 and 7950 require a shim as the GPU die is recessed. Also when using a shim you put TIM on both sides, GPU to shim and shim to cooler/block.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
> I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
> The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.
> 
> Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.
> 
> So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.
> 
> What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?
> 
> 
> 
> Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.
Click to expand...

this, although in stagnate air heat does rise, but unless you are running a 100% passive system, or just have poor airflow, this is just not true in pc cases, heat DOES NOT RISE it goes where the fans push it !!


----------



## Allygash

Ok guys question?

On my second H320 now(gave up on H220, RMA sitting in corner). Just restarted PC to install PCIE intel nic and zero RPM on H320 pump...... zzzzz This is the new RMA H320, now I tried removing splitter connecting to cpu fan header directly blah blah usual BS u have to do to test if its a power problem etc.. So I gave up and whacked the pump with my heavy screwdriver and guess what.... it now works 3000rpm as advertised, great temps etc etc. Now to the question.. do i keep it in there and wait n see or just be done with swiftech and go to something like a corsair h100i or h110(have one in my old system).

Thoughts gents?

Sigh Great kit poor QC (three units 1 h220 n 2 h320's all pump issues, coincidence?)


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For the most part this is true. Most cases are not completely sealed units and therefore there are lots of ways for heat to escape. I have my own top and back radiators set to exhaust and my temperatures never get above 45 Celsius. My ambient is also usually around 25 to 27 Celsius. I have two 140mm fans intaking air in the front and my bottom radiator is also set up as an intake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this, although in stagnate air heat does rise, but unless you are running a 100% passive system, or just have poor airflow, this is just not true in pc cases, heat DOES NOT RISE it goes where the fans push it !!


Well a comp. case is small and the airflow is easier controll...however in my experience it is not as insignificant as you guys are trying to point out. But thats just my opinion, everyone is entitled to their on.

However you are missing the real consern/question i asked, wich is.
_Since my inital thought was to cofigure so that fans are pushing air thru the rad in the front/bottom from outside in to the case, will it be dumping alot of heat in to the case...even thou it is second rad in line ? Will there be heat enough in the water for the rad to dump inside the case, being the second rad inline ?_

Giving it some more time, I think I´ll go with *cephelix* idea to mint in the front/bottom of the case like in the picture he showed me a few pages back.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Has anyone been able to run their H220 on the test bench or outside of the case? I am concerned about it falling over and wondered how you would secure it? Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allygash*
> 
> Ok guys question?
> 
> On my second H320 now(gave up on H220, RMA sitting in corner). Just restarted PC to install PCIE intel nic and zero RPM on H320 pump...... zzzzz This is the new RMA H320, now I tried removing splitter connecting to cpu fan header directly blah blah usual BS u have to do to test if its a power problem etc.. So I gave up and whacked the pump with my heavy screwdriver and guess what.... it now works 3000rpm as advertised, great temps etc etc. Now to the question.. do i keep it in there and wait n see or just be done with swiftech and go to something like a corsair h100i or h110(have one in my old system).
> 
> Thoughts gents?
> 
> Sigh Great kit poor QC (three units 1 h220 n 2 h320's all pump issues, coincidence?)


... still gonna say no i find it funny that
1 gabe has said rma is ~ 3%
2 all the people who have had problems, seem to have multiple problems
#2 tends to point toward user issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For the most part this is true. Most cases are not completely sealed units and therefore there are lots of ways for heat to escape. I have my own top and back radiators set to exhaust and my temperatures never get above 45 Celsius. My ambient is also usually around 25 to 27 Celsius. I have two 140mm fans intaking air in the front and my bottom radiator is also set up as an intake.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this, although in stagnate air heat does rise, but unless you are running a 100% passive system, *or just have poor airflow*, this is just not true in pc cases, heat DOES NOT RISE it goes where the fans push it !!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well a comp. case is small and the airflow is easier controll...however in my experience it is not as insignificant as you guys are trying to point out. But thats just my opinion, everyone is entitled to their on.
> 
> However you are missing the real consern/question i asked, wich is.
> _Since my inital thought was to cofigure so that fans are pushing air thru the rad in the front/bottom from outside in to the case, will it be dumping alot of heat in to the case...even thou it is second rad in line ? Will there be heat enough in the water for the rad to dump inside the case, being the second rad inline ?_
> 
> Giving it some more time, I think I´ll go with *cephelix* idea to mint in the front/bottom of the case like in the picture he showed me a few pages back.
Click to expand...

if your case airflow is poor, it will rise, if it has time to rise in a pc case, you need to upgrade your case fans with better higher static pressure

it will dump the heat into the case, you need to play with airflow to see what works best in your case, i have seen methods where one way works great for one, and a different way works great in a near identical pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Has anyone been able to run their H220 on the test bench or outside of the case? I am concerned about it falling over and wondered how you would secure it? Thanks.


not alot of vibration so they dont bounce around alot


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if your case airflow is poor, it will rise, if it has time to rise in a pc case, you need to upgrade your case fans with better higher static pressure
> 
> it will dump the heat into the case, you need to play with airflow to see what works best in your case, i have seen methods where one way works great for one, and a different way works great in a near identical pc
> not alot of vibration so they dont bounce around alot


Yeah I have to also agree with Mega Man regarding air flow, if the air has time to rise, you need more air flow. The fans should be dictating the flow, plus the more air flow the more efficient all the heat sinks and radiators become to a certain point.

Usually each case I get I try at least 2-3 fan orientations before I figure out which cools best. For average users that may not be necessary but I always like to get AS MUCH of an overclock I can with my hardware so the cooler the better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Well a comp. case is small and the airflow is easier controll...however in my experience it is not as insignificant as you guys are trying to point out. But thats just my opinion, everyone is entitled to their on.
> 
> However you are missing the real consern/question i asked, wich is.
> _Since my inital thought was to cofigure so that fans are pushing air thru the rad in the front/bottom from outside in to the case, will it be dumping alot of heat in to the case...even thou it is second rad in line ? Will there be heat enough in the water for the rad to dump inside the case, being the second rad inline ?_
> 
> Giving it some more time, I think I´ll go with *cephelix* idea to mint in the front/bottom of the case like in the picture he showed me a few pages back.


Can you have it set up to exhaust? WHich case did you have again? Were you doing gpu and cpu?


----------



## hornedfrog86

I hope to get it going on a test bench first. Thanks.


----------



## Allygash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... still gonna say no i find it funny that
> 1 gabe has said rma is ~ 3%
> 2 all the people who have had problems, seem to have multiple problems
> #2 tends to point toward user issues
> if your case airflow is poor, it will rise, if it has time to rise in a pc case, you need to upgrade your case fans with better higher static pressure
> 
> 1 can say what he wants just type in google h220/320 pump issues..... zzzzz
> 2 user issues in an AIO product? Custom loop yep AIO nope, thats the idea its just meant to work. Great idea the splitter but power issues shoulda be spec'd in from the early H220's, the pumps should just work with any quality mobo headers. Most AIO users buy them for ease of use not to mess around for hours trying to figure out why the pump doesnt work, fortunately i took the time to try everything possible, including in this case giving it a whack.
> 
> But the question was 'Take the risk and keep the h320 in there or just be done with it and buy a different AIO'?


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Same here, Singapore is hot. Just unsure if the card can take the whole weight of the pump over time.
> Would the pcb bend over time?
> I personally would just expand the loop,adding more rads(eyeing the alphacool st30).
> But that's just me.
> 
> Also from what i read, and do correct me if i'm wrong here, but most closed loop coolers have aluminium rads,hence the limited cooling capability when compared to full copper rads.
> Just switched from a gtx 570 to a r9 290 so I really have no experience about ati cards though.
> 
> As what Bram said, if you could install a dual 120mm rad, that should be enough to cool card and cpu.
> General rule of thumb, from what I've read here is 120mm of rad per component with a 120mm extra just to be safe


Oh wow can the H220 Pump really take that pressure ? from two rads ? if so then it was a way better purchase then I thought !
Gonna order a Nice 240mm Rad for the top of my Case and a Waterblock for the CPU !
Thanks Guys !!!!


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh wow can the H220 Pump really take that pressure ? from two rads ? if so then it was a way better purchase then I thought !
> Gonna order a Nice 240mm Rad for the top of my Case and a Waterblock for the CPU !
> Thanks Guys !!!!


It can.youtube on how to expand the loop so u dont damage the parts.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh wow can the H220 Pump really take that pressure ? from two rads ? if so then it was a way better purchase then I thought !
> Gonna order a Nice 240mm Rad for the top of my Case and a Waterblock for the CPU !
> Thanks Guys !!!!


First time watercooler: running a 7970, micro res and 280mm on my h220 for 1 week.
looking for a waterblock for my 2nd 7970


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Can you have it set up to exhaust? WHich case did you have again? Were you doing gpu and cpu?


Yeah I was thinking something like this :



My plan is to later remove the Accelero Hybrid and include the VGA in the loop, then mount another Nexus 120mm as intake.

Now, I know this is not the most optimal airflow...but I think it will be sufficient enough !


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Yeah I was thinking something like this :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to later remove the Accelero Hybrid and include the VGA in the loop, then mount another Nexus 120mm as intake.
> 
> Now, I know this is not the most optimal airflow...but I think it will be sufficient enough !


The way you have it doesnt seem bad but the one thing I would add is a standalone reservoir. Either swiftechs micro res if you dont want a bay reservoir, or a bay reservoir. Also, one thing to consider is the 360mm and a 240mm on the bottom would be MORE than enough. This is a scenario that I would experiment with different fan setups to see which way the case responds best too. I personally like my radiators to suck in cool air from outside since they can get heat soaked by the hardware inside the case.

For the moment I would run it exacally like you have except have the front and bottom push cool air in as well. Once its all on a single loop, then experiment.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrazster*
> 
> Yeah I was thinking something like this :
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to later remove the Accelero Hybrid and include the VGA in the loop, then mount another Nexus 120mm as intake.
> 
> Now, I know this is not the most optimal airflow...but I think it will be sufficient enough !


Interesting, I personally have everything set up as intake except for the rear like wht 66 racer mentioned but to each his own.


----------



## bukojuice

Today is not a lucky for me.. Bought a H320 last year of November or december..i think..since im too busy with work and have no time to install the AIO. and put in my storage and kept it for 3 months. tested it once, to see if the AIO is working.. No problem..not until today.. when i try to switch them on.. WOW! no power at all.. like..no power..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> Today is not a lucky for me.. Bought a H320 last year of November or december..i think..since im too busy with work and have no time to install the AIO. and put in my storage and kept it for 3 months. tested it once, to see if the AIO is working.. No problem..not until today.. when i try to switch them on.. WOW! no power at all.. like..no power..


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with this issue.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Interesting, I personally have everything set up as intake except for the rear like wht 66 racer mentioned but to each his own.


^ This, I too think it's much better to pull cold outside air into the case (see post #9554). Its possible to use 3 fans as intake on the front but they need to be all 120's. If you insist on blowing "stagnant" air through the rads I would at least upgrade your front (intake) fans to some GT AP29 pwm's or similiar, Especially until you add your GPU to the loop


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> ^ This, I too think it's much better to pull cold outside air into the case (see post #9554). Its possible to use 3 fans as intake on the front but they need to be all 120's. If you insist on blowing "stagnant" air through the rads I would at least upgrade your front (intake) fans to some GT AP29 pwm's or similiar, Especially until you add your GPU to the loop


Is the AP-29 thing directed at me? If it is, then I didn't know you could fit 3x120mm in the front....Will have to remeasure again...And i have no idea where to get AP-29s locally(in Singapore). Would have to ask around, failing that, order from overseas i suppose.

If it isn't, then forget about what I just said...lol


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Is the AP-29 thing directed at me? If it is, then I didn't know you could fit 3x120mm in the front....Will have to remeasure again...And i have no idea where to get AP-29s locally(in Singapore). Would have to ask around, failing that, order from overseas i suppose.
> 
> If it isn't, then forget about what I just said...lol


No I was responding to mrazsters post, You can fit 3 its a little tricky though.

five intakes and P/P on top









My previous config. lots of intake to cool overvolted 780

new config. everything intake except rear NB eloop


AP29's are nice cause they match the H220 pump speed rpm/rpm
Here is a link, the only place to get GT AP29pwm's. Performance pc's
They may be discontinued/replaced w/ new model soon. GT blacks have a fourth solder point under the label to install 4th wire for PWM. PPC's does an excellent job and braids the wires for good price








Also have some AP30pwm's but they get a little loud @ higher rpm.


----------



## cephelix

Very nice job on the mounting of the 3 fans...may have to look into that and see if it helps with case temps,or any other temps for that matter.

Yeah,read about the unwired solder point.will take a look tmrw but for now i'm just happy at how silent 7 ap-15s are compared to my 3 enermax tb silence.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Very nice job on the mounting of the 3 fans...may have to look into that and see if it helps with case temps,or any other temps for that matter.
> 
> Yeah,read about the unwired solder point.will take a look tmrw but for now i'm just happy at how silent 7 ap-15s are compared to my 3 enermax tb silence.


Thanx,not really sure how much it helped. I did it cause I didnt like the air-flo with the semi-closed front panel on the 750d.(now they r coming out with 760t







). I wanna upgrade but then I will
have two Corsair cases I will have to sale, not to easy to sale pc cases locally and expensive to ship. I should just buy Caselabs and be done with cheap Corsair cases.
Wow 7 GT's... Nice!


----------



## BramSLI1

A lot of you have been asking about how to purchase additional radiators for these kits, well here you go.

Get an MCR-H220 dual 120mm radiator WITH fans for $39.95!

While supplies Last !

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx


----------



## mrazster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A lot of you have been asking about how to purchase additional radiators for these kits, well here you go.
> 
> Get an MCR-H220 dual 120mm radiator WITH fans for $39.95!
> 
> While supplies Last !
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx


Yeah I would gladly do that....but unfortunately swiftech doesn´t ship to sweden.
We don´t have any good onlineshop/e-tailer/swiftechsupplyer here, since I decided to "all in" on swiftech, I had to do some searching to get what I wanted.


----------



## Avonosac

That is a nice bargain.

a REALLY nice bargain.

Too bad I still have an extra h220 and MCR-220-QP laying around xD


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh wow can the H220 Pump really take that pressure ? from two rads ? if so then it was a way better purchase then I thought !
> Gonna order a Nice 240mm Rad for the top of my Case and a Waterblock for the CPU !
> Thanks Guys !!!!


Caselabs!!!!but because it's out of my price range,i just turn a blind eye to it less i be tempted to pool my cash and splurge on one..lol

7AP-15 is normal in the 750 right?2 on top for the h220 rad,1 rear,2 front,2 bottom. Dont know whether u should order spares tho?hmmm....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Interesting, I personally have everything set up as intake except for the rear like wht 66 racer mentioned but to each his own.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This, I too think it's much better to pull cold outside air into the case (see post #9554). Its possible to use 3 fans as intake on the front but they need to be all 120's. If you insist on blowing "stagnant" air through the rads I would at least upgrade your front (intake) fans to some GT AP29 pwm's or similiar, Especially until you add your GPU to the loop
Click to expand...

yea then one day you will get to a point where you have to choose, all intake on all case, or some intake some exhaust best way to do it is hottest water ( first out from blocks ) to exhaust, then to intake rads
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Is the AP-29 thing directed at me? If it is, then I didn't know you could fit 3x120mm in the front....Will have to remeasure again...And i have no idea where to get AP-29s locally(in Singapore). Would have to ask around, failing that, order from overseas i suppose.
> 
> If it isn't, then forget about what I just said...lol


i hope not, considering they are made there and the company is based in china iirc ( if not in asia somewhere )
( looks like japan ? but they have a branch in singapore
http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/company/profile.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I should just buy Caselabs and be done with cheap Corsair cases.
> Wow 7 GT's... Nice!


yes you should !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A lot of you have been asking about how to purchase additional radiators for these kits, well here you go.
> 
> Get an MCR-H220 dual 120mm radiator WITH fans for $39.95!
> 
> While supplies Last !
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx


i saw this last night, amazing price !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Oh wow can the H220 Pump really take that pressure ? from two rads ? if so then it was a way better purchase then I thought !
> Gonna order a Nice 240mm Rad for the top of my Case and a Waterblock for the CPU !
> Thanks Guys !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Caselabs!!!!but because it's out of my price range,i just turn a blind eye to it less i be tempted to pool my cash and splurge on one..lol
> 
> 7AP-15 is normal in the 750 right?2 on top for the h220 rad,1 rear,2 front,2 bottom. Dont know whether u should order spares tho?hmmm....
Click to expand...

whats more outta your price range, upgrading cases every 1-2 years, or buying one and having it last 10 !!!


----------



## cephelix

@Mega Man will have to check if i could get the ap-29s locally then...and my preference is to get a cheap case that can last 10yrs!!lol.but honestly, for now i would say,i dont have a buttload of cash to drop.so i buy stuff for yhe interim.the parts i like i keep. But i can see where you're coming from


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A lot of you have been asking about how to purchase additional radiators for these kits, well here you go.
> 
> Get an MCR-H220 dual 120mm radiator WITH fans for $39.95!
> 
> While supplies Last !
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx


Nice! but still no mcp50x


----------



## bdazla

I just installed my H320 and I have a question for the experts out there. I was shaking the radiator to get the air out of the loop (I added a second radiator and GPU) and I noticed quite a lot of 'matter' flowing from the radiator to the CPU block. I'm pretty sure this is not a good thing, should I disassemble the loop and clean the pump right away?

I have not had it running long so this assumption may be inaccurate, however the temps are a couple of degrees higher now than they were initially.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdazla*
> 
> I just installed my H320 and I have a question for the experts out there. I was shaking the radiator to get the air out of the loop (I added a second radiator and GPU) and I noticed quite a lot of 'matter' flowing from the radiator to the CPU block. I'm pretty sure this is not a good thing, should I disassemble the loop and clean the pump right away?
> 
> I have not had it running long so this assumption may be inaccurate, however the temps are a couple of degrees higher now than they were initially.


If they just look like white flakes then it's just some settling of the dye in the coolant. The reason your temps are still a little high could either be from a poor mount, or you still have some air in the loop that needs to be bled out. Once these kits are expanded it can be quite tedious to bleed all of the air out of them.


----------



## bdazla

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. It did look like white flakes, is this from the original coolant that came with the kit?

Would adding your Micro Res to the loop help with the trapped air?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdazla*
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. It did look like white flakes, is this from the original coolant that came with the kit?
> 
> Would adding your Micro Res to the loop help with the trapped air?


Yes, the white flakes are most likely from the original coolant and yes, adding our Micro Res will help make bleeding easier and help to prevent the pump from being able to suck air into it.


----------



## bdazla

Thanks again for the quick responses, just ordered the Micro Res from your website.


----------



## dallas1990

My pump on my h220 died and I built a custom loop. But I was thinking on reusing the rad. But can I take the swivel fittings off and use compression fittings on it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> My pump on my h220 died and I built a custom loop. But I was thinking on reusing the rad. But can I take the swivel fittings off and use compression fittings on it


Unfortunately not. The barb fittings on the radiator are not removable.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> No I was responding to mrazsters post, You can fit 3 its a little tricky though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> five intakes and P/P on top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My previous config. lots of intake to cool overvolted 780
> 
> 
> 
> new config. everything intake except rear NB eloop
> 
> 
> AP29's are nice cause they match the H220 pump speed rpm/rpm
> Here is a link, the only place to get GT AP29pwm's. Performance pc's
> They may be discontinued/replaced w/ new model soon. GT blacks have a fourth solder point under the label to install 4th wire for PWM. PPC's does an excellent job and braids the wires for good price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also have some AP30pwm's but they get a little loud @ higher rpm.


Looks great! so jealous, wish I had the funds for a kingpin







How much volts can you get out of the 780ti with that loop?


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A lot of you have been asking about how to purchase additional radiators for these kits, well here you go.
> 
> Get an MCR-H220 dual 120mm radiator WITH fans for $39.95!
> 
> While supplies Last !
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx


Just purchased one tonight. I will probably expand my H220 eventually so I figured I might as well pick one of these up at this price. Thanks.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Looks great! so jealous, wish I had the funds for a kingpin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much volts can you get out of the 780ti with that loop?


Thanx, I use a true rms DMM to measure voltage cause no software can report accurate V. So far I have benched with it @ *1.5v* even gamed for hours at sligtly lower than 1.4v and the loop temp measured with a Monsoon temp probe in the alphacool rad only increased 7 degree c. At load Gpu temp never exceeds 42c.


----------



## cephelix

After exactly a week of use mine now has the pump noise. It should be a trapped air bubble causing the ticking noise. It goes silent at 30% pump speed but at 100%, the noise is unbearable.

For reference, I have the pump connected to channel 1 of the splitter and the cpu fan connector, alongside 2 AP-15. The splitter itself is connected to SATA power cable.

Should be a trapped air bubble. Will purchase distilled water and try the steps to remove air bubble in the morning and report on how that goes.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> After exactly a week of use mine now has the pump noise. It should be a trapped air bubble causing the ticking noise. It goes silent at 30% pump speed but at 100%, the noise is unbearable.
> 
> For reference, I have the pump connected to channel 1 of the splitter and the cpu fan connector, alongside 2 AP-15. The splitter itself is connected to SATA power cable.
> 
> Should be a trapped air bubble. Will purchase distilled water and try the steps to remove air bubble in the morning and report on how that goes.


Sounds like a plan. You have your orders, now get to them!


----------



## cephelix

Right Away Senor Nacho Libre SIR!!!








Anyways, just a worst case scenario,if I have to mount and remount and so happen to run out of the included TIM, which one, MX-4 or Noctua TIM would be better?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Right Away Senor Nacho Libre SIR!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, just a worst case scenario,if I have to mount and remount and so happen to run out of the included TIM, which one, MX-4 or Noctua TIM would be better?


Gelid gc extreme 1 / Noctua tim 2
cant go wrong w/ gelid extreme I use it on cpu and gpu


----------



## cephelix

Sorry,should've made my post clearer.i already have both tims and just wondering which of the 2 would be a better choice.

So far,my cpu temps aren't abnormal,but the noise is irritating..set it to 0% in speedfan.
On a side note,speedfan can also read and control the rpm of 2 ap-15s i use as front intake,is this weird??
I connect these 2 fans to a normal 3 pin fan header,not the included pwm splitter.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Sorry,should've made my post clearer.i already have both tims and just wondering which of the 2 would be a better choice.
> 
> So far,my cpu temps aren't abnormal,but the noise is irritating..set it to 0% in speedfan.
> On a side note,speedfan can also read and control the rpm of 2 ap-15s i use as front intake,is this weird??
> I connect these 2 fans to a normal 3 pin fan header,not the included pwm splitter.


I thought about that after I posted, I would use the noctua that's what I used b4 I went Gelid. Make sure you have enough those tubes are really small. If not I do recommend investing in some GE.

Sorry Cant help about speedfan, never used it. Fanxpert 2 has always sufficed 4 me


----------



## cephelix

No worries about speedfan. Maybe someone else could chime in.
Never had to use any TIM before. This is the first time I've changed/reapplied any TIM.
Will take a look around and see if i can find any Gelid TIM though.
Thanks for that.


----------



## M3TAl

Speedfan will report the RPM of anything that is plugged into a motherboard header and has an RPM signal/wire. The yellow wire is typically the RPM signal.

If this is your first time reapplying TIM then make sure you properly clean the surface of the old TIM. Isopropyl Alcohol works decently, 75-90% purity. Goof Off works even better in my experience. I still finish it off with Isopropyl though. Use these in combination with q-tips and/or paper towel, make sure no lint gets left behind on the CPU or GPU.

Also don't use too much TIM. TIM is kind of a less is more situation. Small dot for a bare GPU die and BB/rice grain for CPU. Shouldn't need any more than that. Too much TIM will worsen temps.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Speedfan will report the RPM of anything that is plugged into a motherboard header and has an RPM signal/wire. The yellow wire is typically the RPM signal.
> 
> If this is your first time reapplying TIM then make sure you properly clean the surface of the old TIM. Isopropyl Alcohol works decently, 75-90% purity. Goof Off works even better in my experience. I still finish it off with Isopropyl though. Use these in combination with q-tips and/or paper towel, make sure no lint gets left behind on the CPU or GPU.
> 
> Also don't use too much TIM. TIM is kind of a less is more situation. Small dot for a bare GPU die and BB/rice grain for CPU. Shouldn't need any more than that. Too much TIM will worsen temps.


Noted. I understand reporting rpms, but changing rpms of non-pwm fans I'm not sure. Anyways I have in total 5 fans connected directly to the mobo 2 pairs connected using a 2 way 3pin splitter cable and 1 x fan as an exaust. All fans are AP-15 but speedfan only shows and can adjust pump speed and front intake fans.


----------



## kevindd992002

Would there be any chance that these recent problems be present with the H220X also? I mean, I'm planning to buy it but am not ready to disassemble a closed-loop cooler just yet just to get rid of air bubbles after a few months of use. I'm in it for its simplicity and performance.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Noted. I understand reporting rpms, but changing rpms of non-pwm fans I'm not sure. Anyways I have in total 5 fans connected directly to the mobo 2 pairs connected using a 2 way 3pin splitter cable and 1 x fan as an exaust. All fans are AP-15 but speedfan only shows and can adjust pump speed and front intake fans.


Speedfan will only control PWM fans on PWM headers from my knowledge. Your motherboard might have voltage control for the headers or might not.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Speedfan will report the RPM of anything that is plugged into a motherboard header and has an RPM signal/wire. The yellow wire is typically the RPM signal.
> 
> If this is your first time reapplying TIM then make sure you properly clean the surface of the old TIM. Isopropyl Alcohol works decently, 75-90% purity. Goof Off works even better in my experience. I still finish it off with Isopropyl though. Use these in combination with q-tips and/or paper towel, make sure no lint gets left behind on the CPU or GPU.
> 
> Also don't use too much TIM. TIM is kind of a less is more situation. Small dot for a bare GPU die and BB/rice grain for CPU. Shouldn't need any more than that. Too much TIM will worsen temps.


there are exceptions, 2011 has a rather large die so a line is preferred by most


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Speedfan will only control PWM fans on PWM headers from my knowledge. Your motherboard might have voltage control for the headers or might not.


That's what I thought. mine is an old motherboard, MSI P55-GD85


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Would there be any chance that these recent problems be present with the H220X also? I mean, I'm planning to buy it but am not ready to disassemble a closed-loop cooler just yet just to get rid of air bubbles after a few months of use. I'm in it for its simplicity and performance.


A few post back it was noted that the new design is supposed to help with the air, see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The design change does two things. It avoids any more issues with Asetek's stupid patent trolling and it allows for air to be purged much more easily. This is also a stronger pump than the H220 so this will also help with performance and the ability to purge air more easily.
> 
> Having the reservoir located under the radiator like this really doesn't impede air flow very much at all. Our own testing has shown that the kit really doesn't suffer because of this change in design.


----------



## Mark the Bold

Hi All,

Just installed my H220 to replace my aging Corsair H50.

I had a little gurgling sound at first but I think I passed that bubble through it as it is whisper quiet now. The only PITA in the install was that my Gentle Typhoons would not accommodate the screws to connect the fans to the rad. But thats not Swiftechs fault.

I went from a tepid 95-99C load temp under Handbrake loading to a more reasonable 67-69C under the H220 in the same setup.

Thanks Swiftech! Great product.


----------



## cephelix

Congrats! faced the same problem as you when instaling my ap-15s. the screw barely threaded into the rad

Edit: Been running my h220 outside the case for about half an hr with the reservoir cap off, will try for longer. The ticking noise is audible when before i had to touch the pump to feel for vibrations.hopefully it's just an air bubble stuck in the impeller. If it is, it is a very stubborn air bubble....

The ticking goes away at low rpms, if i set speedfan at 0% pwm, it runs at about 1200 rpm give or take but once it reaches 2000 rpm, the sound becomes audible. Will report back in a few hours. What should I do if it doesn't go away?

Dismantling is an option but being so far away it's kinda hard to coordinate times with Bram i suppose.


----------



## Select One

Im planning to get h320 but i dont know if its ok to mount the radiator at the top of the case and the reservoir facing down? Do i have to worry about it?


----------



## cephelix

it is possible but then the reservoir becomes somewhat redundant as it then doesn't act as an air trap..


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> The only PITA in the install was that my Gentle Typhoons would not accommodate the screws to connect the fans to the rad.


I had the same issue when I first installed the H220 in P/P. If you have a dremmel it's a very easy fix to make a little notch so that you can use the swiftech screws to mount the fan to rad. I bought some screw nuts to secure the Gentle Typhoons to the case...


----------



## Select One

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> it is possible but then the reservoir becomes somewhat redundant as it then doesn't act as an air trap..


But is it going to work?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I had the same issue when I first installed the H220 in P/P. If you have a dremmel it's a very easy fix to make a little notch so that you can use the swiftech screws to mount the fan to rad. I bought some screw nuts to secure the Gentle Typhoons to the case...


Very nice work there sdm....Unfortunately I installed it late at night so i hacked at it using a thick philips head bit till I got a gap wide enough to accommodate the smallest screw head i could
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Select One*
> 
> But is it going to work?


It would, but some consider it a PITA since you'll have to refill it more often due to the "fish tank" noise. I have 2 tanks in my room so it doesn't bother me


----------



## BlueLights

Hey all. I recently got my.new rig up and running, my h220 went in fairly easily thanks to the comments and suggestions some of you made! I'm contemplating expanding it to include the cross chill vrm cooler on my maximus vi. Just wondering If you have any suggestions as far as what I should get? My main source source of supplies is ncix, any advice would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlueLights*
> 
> Hey all. I recently got my.new rig up and running, my h220 went in fairly easily thanks to the comments and suggestions some of you made! I'm contemplating expanding it to include the cross chill vrm cooler on my maximus vi. Just wondering If you have any suggestions as far as what I should get? My main source source of supplies is ncix, any advice would be greatly appreciated


Smart move, man









I'm interested in the reply to this question as well, as I'll do the same thing with the same board (Maximus VI Formula).

If I recall correctly, the tubing for this kit is 5/8 ID X 3/4 OD........so you'd need the tubing of your choice in that size, plus 2 barb fittings for the Cross Chill in G 1/4 X 5/8 and clamps. Flow restriction for the stock Cross Chill seems pretty negligible (based on JackNaylor's post in the Formula Owner's thread), so I think the pump should be able to handle it just fine.

Since I'll have to get tubing to add CrossChill into the loop, might as well replace it all, as I'd want it to be red tubing anyway.

I don't have my cooler or comp built yet though, if the experienced people here say otherwise, definitely go with their recommendation.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> Smart move, man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in the reply to this question as well, as I'll do the same thing with the same board (Maximus VI Formula).
> 
> If I recall correctly, the tubing for this kit is 5/8 ID X 3/4 OD........so you'd need the tubing of your choice in that size, plus 2 barb fittings for the Cross Chill in G 1/4 X 5/8 and clamps. Flow restriction for the stock Cross Chill seems pretty negligible (based on JackNaylor's post in the Formula Owner's thread), so I think the pump should be able to handle it just fine.
> 
> Since I'll have to get tubing to add CrossChill into the loop, might as well replace it all, as I'd want it to be red tubing anyway.
> 
> I don't have my cooler or comp built yet though, if the experienced people here say otherwise, definitely go with their recommendation.


h220's are 3/8" x 5/8". I would think 5/8" x 3/4" to be grossly thick tubing and would cause even more compatablity problems with large vrm heatsinks on certain motherboards(especially asus ones)


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> Smart move, man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in the reply to this question as well, as I'll do the same thing with the same board (Maximus VI Formula).
> 
> If I recall correctly, *the tubing for this kit is 5/8 ID X 3/4 OD*........so you'd need the tubing of your choice in that size, plus 2 barb fittings for the Cross Chill in G 1/4 X 5/8 and clamps. Flow restriction for the stock Cross Chill seems pretty negligible (based on JackNaylor's post in the Formula Owner's thread), so I think the pump should be able to handle it just fine.
> 
> Since I'll have to get tubing to add CrossChill into the loop, might as well replace it all, as I'd want it to be red tubing anyway.
> 
> I don't have my cooler or comp built yet though, if the experienced people here say otherwise, definitely go with their recommendation.


I just wanted to correct you, its ID 3/8 and OD 5/8









Regarding the vrm coolers, I would see if EK has them, they usually make them for asus boards, then just get ID 3/8 barbs, hose, and clamps. You can use compression fittings and such as well if its in the budget. I personally never water cooled a motherboard, Its mostly for looks (at least currently) but boy it looks good.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I just wanted to correct you, its ID 3/8 and OD 5/8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the vrm coolers, I would see if EK has them, they usually make them for asus boards, then just get ID 3/8 barbs, hose, and clamps. You can use compression fittings and such as well if its in the budget. I personally never water cooled a motherboard, Its mostly for looks (at least currently) but boy it looks good.


Thanks for that correction! I was working off the top of my head, should have opened a new tab to research the correct sizes.

Guys in the Formula Owner's thread are reporting -20C temps (Asus claims -23C) just using the stock Cross Chill, so it seems very good! EK or others would be better of course, just depends how much you want to pay







And if you're carrying over a particular styling theme.

I'm too poor to get deep into watercooling







So the "free" stock Cross Chill is the option for me.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> Thanks for that correction! I was working off the top of my head, should have opened a new tab to research the correct sizes.
> 
> Guys in the Formula Owner's thread are reporting -20C temps (Asus claims -23C) just using the stock Cross Chill, so it seems very good! EK or others would be better of course, just depends how much you want to pay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you're carrying over a particular styling theme.
> 
> I'm too poor to get deep into watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the "free" stock Cross Chill is the option for me.


Oh yeah that would work, I looked up the maximus vi and it looked like they didnt have the stock water cooler on it and thought maybe there were 2 versions. Guess asus put some nice covers to hide it this time. That was my only issue with the maximus v was the exposed fittings. Man its practically a free upgrade for you since the h220/320 can easily handle that small expansion. Hose will likely be the most expensive part of it







Swiftech fittings are VERY cheap in cost and are what I used when I added my gpu. I just got cheap clamps too, not even the nice metal screw type ones.

A swiftech microres might make the upgrade easier too and isnt very expensive, very universal and easy to mount as well. If you wanted to do it as cheap as possible, it would help out with hose routing as well so you can get the inexpensive straight barbs since bending the hose right out of the h220 pump would likely be too much. You could go from ST MICRO RES>PUMP/CPU>RAD>VRM>RES. If you got fancy with fittings you can likely make it work without the standalone res and do it rad/rez>cpu>vrm but since the fittings dont swap out on the h220 it might be tough. Really though anytime this kit is expanded a stand alone reservoir should be used to make life easier (air bubbles).

Have fun and good luck


----------



## remnant

Question to ya'll with "expandable" all in one coolers: how easy is it expand the loop to a graphics card, specifically to something like the Asus rog Poseidon. ( or is that even possible)


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remnant*
> 
> Question to ya'll with "expandable" all in one coolers: how easy is it expand the loop to a graphics card, specifically to something like the Asus rog Poseidon. ( or is that even possible)


Its very easy, swiftech even put a video on youtube with one of the evga water cooled cards (i think thats what it was). The pump on the h220 easily handles a gpu. Depending on the gpu and cpu you can still get away with the single 240mm rad that is included as well. I have my 2700k and gtx 770 (with 1.33v overvolt) on the single 240mm rad with great temps but I do run the pump and fans at 100% when gaming. With more radiator space that wouldnt be necessary. Even at lower rpms its still good but I rather run it at 100% since the speakers drown out the fans anyways.


----------



## remnant

Thanks a ton !







hoping to do something like this with my next computer build later this year or early next year


----------



## cephelix

Yeah, super simple....just make sure you test for leaks before plugging in your system. But I guess that goes without saying.


----------



## cephelix

Anyone know where I could get a new revision of the h220 impeller?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Anyone know where I could get a new revision of the h220 impeller?


PM me and I might be able to assist you with this.


----------



## bdazla

I purchased a microres to add to my H320 loop with a second radiator and gpu block. I know that usually the res should be above and feed the pump however I'm struggling with where to place it and have it above the h320 pump.

Since there already a res in the radiator does this matter? Any advice would be appreciated. I got the res as I'm was having problems getting all the air bubbles out.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdazla*
> 
> I purchased a microres to add to my H320 loop with a second radiator and gpu block. I know that usually the res should be above and feed the pump however I'm struggling with where to place it and have it above the h320 pump.
> 
> Since there already a res in the radiator does this matter? Any advice would be appreciated. I got the res as I'm was having problems getting all the air bubbles out.


I had the same problem. Put res right before the pump


----------



## 66racer

Yeah there are occasions you cant have it above the pump, its ok but just have the microres feed the pump and it will be ok.


----------



## Jawswing

What screws do the Swiftech H220s use to mount the fans?
I'm using SP120s and because of the rubber in each corner, the screws that came with the stock fans aren't long enough because of this.
There were eight screws provided that would work, (the long ones, that are partially threaded). But I'm using four fans in push/pull so there isn't enough. Looks like I'd have use them too to mount it to the case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> What screws do the Swiftech H220s use to mount the fans?
> I'm using SP120s and because of the rubber in each corner, the screws that came with the stock fans aren't long enough because of this.
> There were eight screws provided that would work, (the long ones, that are partially threaded). But I'm using four fans in push/pull so there isn't enough. Looks like I'd have use them too to mount it to the case.


They're 6-32 screws.


----------



## Jawswing

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360785538083?var=630180352150&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Just bought them. 6-32 1.14", will they work?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360785538083?var=630180352150&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> Just bought them. 6-32 1.14", will they work?


Those look like they should work. I don't remember what the length of ours are, but those look about right.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those look like they should work. I don't remember what the length of ours are, but those look about right.


Is that Norprene, you guys are using for tubing?

Thanks


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Is that Norprene, you guys are using for tubing?
> 
> Thanks


I think, and correct me if i'm wrong here, that it's their own Truflex tubing


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360785538083?var=630180352150&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> Just bought them. 6-32 1.14", will they work?
> 
> 
> 
> Those look like they should work. I don't remember what the length of ours are, but those look about right.
Click to expand...

a fan is 25mm, 1"=25.4mm so yea they will work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Is that Norprene, you guys are using for tubing?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I think, and correct me if i'm wrong here, that it's their own Truflex tubing
Click to expand...

correct


----------



## gdubc

Somewhat disappointed with tonight's situation. I wanted to get some parts tested while I am still in my return window, so I put some stuff together. Since I am waiting on pumps for my loop (cough, cough, mcp50x, cough), I decided to break out the h220 I have had for like a year now to pull temporary duty. Unfortunately I noticed it sloshed more than I felt it should and on further inspection found a small leak in the hose from where it had been creased sitting in the box for so long.







Lucky I have some of the ek norprene like stuff on hand







but I just won't be getting it done tonight as hoped.








I am wondering however, if I was to mount the rad in the bottom of my s8 (res up of course), would the pump have enough oomph to bleed the air since I am going to be opening it up? Being the rad/res would be below the pump I'm just not sure! Thanks!


----------



## cephelix

dont quote me on this, but it may have, would probably just take longer to bleed


----------



## soad666p

im getting the same problem again with cpu error , clear the bios and put the pump in the cpu fan header it self and still nothing, took the computer part and to see if the pump was fit fully and it was. i cant seem to understand what wrong


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure your running on 12v- are you using the splitter


----------



## Jawswing

I'm a little confused with what I need to do with the splitter/fans.
From what I've read on the first page, the pump needs to run off the splitter, which isn't an issue.

However, I have four SP120 quiet PWM fans. Which have a max RPM of 1450.
Am I correct in thinking that if I were to have the pump connected to the CH1 port on the splitter, the fan speed will mirror the pump speed?

I've read earlier in this thread that the minimum pump speed would be 1300RPM, so this means the fans will never be lower than 1300RPM?
What would happen with the fans if the pump were spinning higher than the 1450 limit on the fans?

Likewise, with the other scenario, what would happen if I were to connect a fan to CH1 and the pump to another header on the motherboard? And the fans were spinning below the 1300RPM limit on the pump? Would the pump just not work?


----------



## cephelix

I think the pwm comes in percentages so the fans and pump will run at the specified percentage of their max rpm.

Please correct me if i'm wrong


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure your running on 12v- are you using the splitter


yup i got it work but im not to sure what fixed it.


----------



## Jawswing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> I think the pwm comes in percentages so the fans and pump will run at the specified percentage of their max rpm.
> 
> Please correct me if i'm wrong


Awesome! I believe the fans run from 500RPM-1450RPM.
The pump is 1300RPM-3000RPM (I think).

Which means if it told them to run at 50%, then the fans would run at 975RPM whilst the pump would be running at 2150RPM?

And finally, my motherboard has no three pin fan headers, they're all PWM. If I were to connect the AF140 (three pin) to the splitter, would it presumably run at full speed?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

There has to be something going on. I have had the h220 for about six weeks and my pump is also dead. I ordered mine on the 12 of February. So it wasn't even installed until the 18th or 19th. 3 days ago I heard what sounded like ticking coming from the pump. I shut down and uninstalled the cooler from the case and dead pump. This sucks. I have been wanting one of these since its release last year. I'm afraid to disassemble it or anything to try to fix it, just in case Swiftech decides that something I've done has "voided" the warranty. But I'm kinda pissed off right now. I know it isn't just me from the past 10 pages or so of this thread. What is going on over there?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> Awesome! I believe the fans run from 500RPM-1450RPM.
> The pump is 1300RPM-3000RPM (I think).
> 
> Which means if it told them to run at 50%, then the fans would run at 975RPM whilst the pump would be running at 2150RPM?
> 
> And finally, my motherboard has no three pin fan headers, they're all PWM. If I were to connect the AF140 (three pin) to the splitter, would it presumably run at full speed?


Yup, your fans should run at full speed since they are non -pwm.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> I'm a little confused with what I need to do with the splitter/fans.
> From what I've read on the first page, the pump needs to run off the splitter, which isn't an issue.
> 
> However, I have four SP120 quiet PWM fans. Which have a max RPM of 1450.
> Am I correct in thinking that if I were to have the pump connected to the CH1 port on the splitter, the fan speed will mirror the pump speed?
> 
> I've read earlier in this thread that the minimum pump speed would be 1300RPM, so this means the fans will never be lower than 1300RPM?
> What would happen with the fans if the pump were spinning higher than the 1450 limit on the fans?
> 
> Likewise, with the other scenario, what would happen if I were to connect a fan to CH1 and the pump to another header on the motherboard? And the fans were spinning below the 1300RPM limit on the pump? Would the pump just not work?


If I'm remembering correctly Corsair fans have problems running off standard motherboard PWM, at least running more than like 3-4 fans off the same PWM signal. Their fans are different in someway and work best with Corsair's own PWM from their products (H100i for example).

A few users have had problems running multiple Corsair fans off PWM. Think they start running full RPM when you add too many.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> I think the pwm comes in percentages so the fans and pump will run at the specified percentage of their max rpm.
> 
> Please correct me if i'm wrong
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! I believe the fans run from 500RPM-1450RPM.
> The pump is 1300RPM-3000RPM (I think).
> 
> Which means if it told them to run at 50%, then the fans would run at 975RPM whilst the pump would be running at 2150RPM?
> 
> And finally, my motherboard has no three pin fan headers, they're all PWM. If I were to connect the AF140 (three pin) to the splitter, would it presumably run at full speed?
Click to expand...

yea, hate to tell you this, just because a mobo has 4 pins does NOT mean that it is a pwm fan header.

99% of mobos CPU/CPU opt are the only pwm headers


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, hate to tell you this, just because a mobo has 4 pins does NOT mean that it is a pwm fan header.
> 
> 99% of mobos CPU/CPU opt are the only pwm headers


Sadly,that is true. There's been a few cases in this thread where people make the mistake thinking that all 4-pin fan connectors are PWM. The best way is to look through your motherboard's manual. But usually only the CPU fan/cpu opt connectors are pwm


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, hate to tell you this, just because a mobo has 4 pins does NOT mean that it is a pwm fan header.
> 
> 99% of mobos CPU/CPU opt are the only pwm headers
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly,that is true. There's been a few cases in this thread where people make the mistake thinking that all 4-pin fan connectors are PWM. The best way is to look through your motherboard's manual. But usually only the CPU fan/cpu opt connectors are pwm
Click to expand...

my ud7 does not have a cpu out at all, but it does have a second header that is pwm


----------



## cephelix

i think the cpu opt is for asus boards. I can't remember...my motherboard is 3 yrs old and only has 1 pwm header


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> There has to be something going on. I have had the h220 for about six weeks and my pump is also dead. I ordered mine on the 12 of February. So it wasn't even installed until the 18th or 19th. 3 days ago I heard what sounded like ticking coming from the pump. I shut down and uninstalled the cooler from the case and dead pump. This sucks. I have been wanting one of these since its release last year. I'm afraid to disassemble it or anything to try to fix it, just in case Swiftech decides that something I've done has "voided" the warranty. But I'm kinda pissed off right now. I know it isn't just me from the past 10 pages or so of this thread. What is going on over there?


Please PM me so that I can assist you with this issue.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please PM me so that I can assist you with this issue.


Thanks for the offer BramSLI1. PM sent.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Sadly,that is true. There's been a few cases in this thread where people make the mistake thinking that all 4-pin fan connectors are PWM. The best way is to look through your motherboard's manual. But usually only the CPU fan/cpu opt connectors are pwm


Sadly sometimes this won't even help. According to my maximus v formula manual, all headers are pwm. However, as confirmed by [email protected], only cpu and cpu_opt are pwm on asus boards. Still slightly bitter about that one....


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Sadly sometimes this won't even help. According to my maximus v formula manual, all headers are pwm. However, as confirmed by [email protected], only cpu and cpu_opt are pwm on asus boards. Still slightly bitter about that one....


Sadly sad sad......dont know why they do tht....


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I should be getting my new pump in tomorrow, according to UPS. I do have to say, this RMA process has by far been the easiest RMA I've ever had to do. A couple emails back and forth with BramSLI1 and he got me all taken care of. Swiftech has got some great customer service.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Good to know I look forward to your new result,


----------



## cephelix

i was swayed to purchasing this unit because of said customer service. it is awesome,and I'm not even in america!


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> i was swayed to purchasing this unit because of said customer service. it is awesome,and I'm not even in america!


Yeah, every other company I've had to deal with I had to pay to ship the product back. Swiftech is paying to ship both ways


----------



## WhiteRice

It's the end of March, any news on the MCP50X?


----------



## Neo Zuko

I check Swiftech's website everyday for the H220X and MCP50X. Wish they had webpages up with an email alerts.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I check Swiftech's website everyday for the H220X and MCP50X. Wish they had webpages up with an email alerts.


Like I've said previously, right now it looks like it's going to be around the end of April to early May. If that changes I'll post that information here.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Like I've said previously, right now it looks like it's going to be around the end of April to early May. If that changes I'll post that information here.


For both?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Well, I got a really nice screw you from Swiftech today. Anyone wanna know why? Apparently since I ran the h220 off the v12 PWR_FAN connection on my board it "voided" the warranty. Can anyone explain how this is? How can a company be this shady? Wanna read the reply I got from our buddy BramSLI1? Sure you do









Hi XXXXX,

I think I've determined what your issue is. These pumps are specifically designed for PWM functionality. To power them off a 12v PWR fan header will therefore result in failure over time. This is due to the fact that these headers fluctuate the power delivered to the connected devices in order to increase and decrease their speed. This is not recommended for PWM devices and is precisely the reason we include our PWM splitter. Our manual specifically states that these should be plugged into channel 1 on the splitter or plugged into your CPU fan header. Since you failed to do so I can't authorize a replacement for this product. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns regarding this decision.

This is crap and I'm not going to let Swiftech do this to me.

Edit: As most of you here know. The PWR_FAN header (at least on my board and the others I've seen) is NOT adjustable. It does not fluctate. It runs at a constant 12v.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Well, I got a really nice screw you from Swiftech today. Anyone wanna know why? Apparently since I ran the h220 off the v12 PWR_FAN connection on my board it "voided" the warranty. Can anyone explain how this is? How can a company be this shady? Wanna read the reply I got from our buddy BramSLI1? Sure you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi XXXXX,
> 
> I think I've determined what your issue is. These pumps are specifically designed for PWM functionality. To power them off a 12v PWR fan header will therefore result in failure over time. This is due to the fact that these headers fluctuate the power delivered to the connected devices in order to increase and decrease their speed. This is not recommended for PWM devices and is precisely the reason we include our PWM splitter. Our manual specifically states that these should be plugged into channel 1 on the splitter or plugged into your CPU fan header. Since you failed to do so I can't authorize a replacement for this product. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns regarding this decision.
> 
> This is crap and I'm not going to let Swiftech do this to me.
> 
> Edit: As most of you here know. The PWR_FAN header (at least on my board and the others I've seen) is NOT adjustable. It does not fluctate. It runs at a constant 12v.


I already told you that I'd still honor your warranty. Just next time please don't run the pump on anything but the CPU fan header. I would recommend that you actually run it off of our splitter. Also, quoting from an email with a confidentiality notice is not recommended.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> For both?


Yes, currently for all of the new products that are coming out.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'm not in a huge rush I suppose. I have to pay taxes in April lol.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I already told you that I'd still honor your warranty. Just next time please don't run the pump on anything but the CPU fan header. I would recommend that you actually run it off of our splitter. Also, quoting from an email with a confidentiality notice is not recommended.


No, you told me you would not honor the warranty. And you can attach a confidentiality notice to anything you like. Personally I'd like one to come on my toilet paper. I never signed a confidentiality agreement. You can ask me to keep something private but I feel no obligation to do so when I am blamed for breaking something I know full well I did not do. I ran the pump off of a motherboard header that is NOT adjustable. It is the 3 pin power fan connector on a ud5 motherboard. It puts out a constant 12v. I ran it at 12v and 3000 rpm only. The pump broke in 6 weeks while running in perfectly acceptable operating conditions. If I remember correctly Swiftech's own website states that at 12v and 3000 rpm the pump is rated at 60,000 hours MTBF. That is something like 6.86 years at full speed. I do my homework. I know that the h220 pump cannot be controlled by voltage. I would never try. I also know that pumps controlled even by proper pwm (and by proper I mean not something like Asus "fake" pwm) speed control have a higher fail rate. That is why I decided to run it at full speed and 12v. If I caused this (and I have broken hardware before using my stupidity) I would bite the bullet. I have eaten losses because it was my fault. Back in the beginnning I made some dandy mistakes







I just want my h220 and I want it to work.
Now I know I'm coming off hateful but it isn't like that. I have loved Swiftech. I jumped up and down when I heard Swiftech was making the h220. I was mad as hell when Asetek hit you with a patent infringement lawsuit. I did the happiest little dance you ever saw when I was finally able to order one. Now I'm a very unhappy guy that has a h220 that doesn't work. That's all. Once again I apologize for raising hell and ranting and raving. But I'm doing it because I love Swiftech. If this were another company I would just say "well, I kinda expected it" and just never buy another Swiftech product. There are several companies on my "do not buy" list. I just never thought Swiftech would be one of them.
IF you help me to get this fixed I will retract every bad thing I've said and more. I will be the company's biggest supporter. #1 customer. I am just angry and disappointed right now.


----------



## Thrasher1016

...And then they have no legally binding reason in the 'Verse to honor anything they told you at ALL, and may even void your right to arbitration over a "defect" or "malfunction" under Commerce Law. Not a lawyer, but breaking the TOS / CA in an email chain THAT YOU REPLIED WITHIN (which is your AGREEMENT TO THE TOS of the said confidentiality agreement) is step one to losing everything you were asking for in the first place.

You're not too bright, dude.

And going total douchecopter in plain view is indicative of a small, child-like mind. Grown adults finish the fight first, then worry about blasting whatever company / entity / person they feel they were wronged by.

Not too bright.

Any you can't RETRACT anything you've said, you've already replied with a potentially libelous statement here, and I'm pretty sure the OCN TOS states you can't mass edit or remove content of your own accord, so... Too late, mate.

Wait, not to mention the "problem" was your fault anyway?
PFFFFTT.

If you ran that pump off the wrong type of header with no regard to the instructions included, then on your head be it, and if it were me, I'd write it off as one more person who can't read being taught a lesson.

Thanks - T


----------



## cephelix

I understand your frustration z3ro but i do agree with thrasher,there are better ways of handling/resolving the situation than what you have done.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Got my pump in today. Put it all together, didn't fill the barbs up to minimize air bubbles so I had to drain it and refill. Filling the barbs up first makes a big difference to stop air bubbles. For anyone needing to refill, I recommend keeping the tubes on the pump and filling the pump up that way. Took about 10-15 mins at 100% pump speed before all air bubbles were gone. Now it's nice and quiet. Idling around 22-25c. Load (in BF4, not really full load) sticks around 38-40c. So far so good. Hopefully it stays this way







Thanks again @BramSLI1 for a hassle free and speedy RMA.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> I understand your frustration z3ro but i do agree with thrasher,there are better ways of handling/resolving the situation than what you have done.


+1


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I have pair helix 120 (non pwm). Is it okay to plug them into the pwm splitter for the h220. If so, will they operate at the same fan speed as the pwm helix fans that come with the H220?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

There is something that you all are missing. My warranty claim was refused because of nothing I did. I did not void the warranty. Nowhere does it state that the pump must only run off the cpu header or the included 8 way splitter. I read the manual. Read your own manuals if you don't believe me. Nowhere in the warranty statement does it say what I did voided the warranty. It was outright refused. With a statement at the bottom saying I could say nothing about it? What did I have to lose? It was only after I posted here that they decided to look up the specs of my board and decide to honor the warranty. So I think what I did directly affected their decision to honor the warranty. I did not try to control pump speed by voltage. I did not try to control the pump speed at all. I hooked it up to the PWR_FAN connector on my 990fxa-ud5 rev.3 motherboard and didn't mess with it at all. 6 weeks later it started ticking, loudly. When I took it out to inspect it the pump no longer worked. End of story. What would you have done? Just said "Okay, I don't mind that my 6 week old h220 doesn't work and now I can't get it fixed." If I had recieved an email stating "alright, look this is a big secret, but I'm going to tell you how to fix this pump yourself just don't tell anybody" I'd have said sure. That's not what happened. I posted the email just as I received it. Stating they would not honor the warranty. And I should say nothing more about it? I had nothing left to lose.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> There is something that you all are missing. My warranty claim was refused because of nothing I did. I did not void the warranty. Nowhere does it state that the pump must only run off the cpu header or the included 8 way splitter. I read the manual. Read your own manuals if you don't believe me. Nowhere in the warranty statement does it say what I did voided the warranty. It was outright refused. With a statement at the bottom saying I could say nothing about it? What did I have to lose? It was only after I posted here that they decided to look up the specs of my board and decide to honor the warranty. So I think what I did directly affected their decision to honor the warranty. I did not try to control pump speed by voltage. I did not try to control the pump speed at all. I hooked it up to the PWR_FAN connector on my 990fxa-ud5 rev.3 motherboard and didn't mess with it at all. 6 weeks later it started ticking, loudly. When I took it out to inspect it the pump no longer worked. End of story. What would you have done? Just said "Okay, I don't mind that my 6 week old h220 doesn't work and now I can't get it fixed." If I had recieved an email stating "alright, look this is a big secret, but I'm going to tell you how to fix this pump yourself just don't tell anybody" I'd have said sure. That's not what happened. I posted the email just as I received it. Stating they would not honor the warranty. And I should say nothing more about it? I had nothing left to lose.


OK, where do I start? First off, I had already OK'd your RMA request before you posted to OCN that we were denying your request. I even stated so here on the forum. Second, there is nowhere in our manual that says to plug this into anything other than a PWM header or our included splitter. You also stated yourself that it's possible that power fluctuations through the motherboard could cause your PWR fan header to fluctuate in voltages. The fact that your pump began ticking is indicative of this type of failure and it's this same type of ticking that you would get from a PWM fan when it's connected to a voltage regulated header. Shortly after this type of exhibited behavior the fan, or other connected PWM device will begin to fail. This is why I initially thought that you were using a voltage regulated fan header to control your pump speed. I jumped to a conclusion and that's why I initially denied your RMA request.

Shortly after this you sent me an angry email and included your make and model of your motherboard. I then took it upon myself to look it up and found that your PWR fan header has no RPM control capabilities and this is why I reversed my previous decision.


----------



## 66racer

z3ro---

we get your upset, be happy they decided to send you an rma, think you got your point across by now.


----------



## jchambers2586

Will this fit in front of a 94 case with some low low profile fans without removing the hard drive cages.

rad http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4083/ex-rad-84/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_240_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160

fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CMGjzoDkwL0CFWxp7AodRFkAwg&Item=N82E16835705067&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835705067&ef_id=UvyiBgAAAFW8FkWz:20140402024332:s


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> Will this fit in front of a 94 case with some low low profile fans without removing the hard drive cages.
> 
> rad http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4083/ex-rad-84/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_240_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160
> 
> fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=CMGjzoDkwL0CFWxp7AodRFkAwg&Item=N82E16835705067&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835705067&ef_id=UvyiBgAAAFW8FkWz:20140402024332:s


I would rethink rad choice. GT Stealths are extremely high in FPI, and require alot of SP(either by push pull or high rpm levels on fans). pairing the GT Stealths with Low profile fans isn't the best of ideas for Price/Perf


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I would rethink rad choice. GT Stealths are extremely high in FPI, and require alot of SP(either by push pull or high rpm levels on fans). pairing the GT Stealths with Low profile fans isn't the best of ideas for Price/Perf


Low FPI 30mm thick rad without breaking the bank? Alphacool NexXxos ST30


----------



## jchambers2586

What rad will fit in the front of a define R4 with the hard drive cages installed.


----------



## BramSLI1

With it installed? There probably aren't any that are thin enough to accommodate the hard drive cage as well. I certainly don't know of any.


----------



## jchambers2586

Bryan I don't like bugging you and Gabe with my problems thanks for the response though.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> What rad will fit in the front of a define R4 with the hard drive cages installed.


With it moved to the left? Or in it's original position.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> What rad will fit in the front of a define R4 with the hard drive cages installed.


using this post as reference a H110 just barely fit in his case with an offset bottom HDD cage(Image here). the thickness of the h110 is 29mm. since hes using noctua fans, assuming they are standard 25mm fans, you have 2 choices:

1) Aim for a rad around or under 29mm. the smallest you can get would be a black ice pro II(discontinued radiator, 25mm), Magicool Extreme at 30mm, Alphacool Nexxxos ST30

2) Get a sub 25mm fan(e.g gelid slims at ~16mm, 20mm Yateloons, 15mm Evercool TFD's) to have more room for radiator

If you need both hard drive cages, Good luck on your endeavor

I havent tested either of these, this is based on what I see at least


----------



## jchambers2586

how about this case 750D with HDD cages installed. 



.


----------



## NvidiaFan29

Is it possible to use any Swiftech Water cooler for the 780 ti classified? Can I simply replace the CPU waterblock that it comes with and mount it directly to an EK Waterblock instead. I'm trying to water cool without going through an entire custom build.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Is it possible to use any Swiftech Water cooler for the 780 ti classified? Can I simply replace the CPU waterblock that it comes with and mount it directly to an EK Waterblock instead. I'm trying to water cool without going through an entire custom build.


The pump is built into the water block on our H220 kit. The new H220X kit though will have a separate CPU water block and the pump is located on the radiator. Why do you want to remove the water block that already comes with your 780 Ti classified though?


----------



## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The pump is built into the water block on our H220 kit. The new H220X kit though will have a separate CPU water block and the pump is located on the radiator. Why do you want to remove the water block that already comes with your 780 Ti classified though?


Sorry for the confusion. I don't have a water block for the card. Let me rephrase, I want an A/0 water cooler for my gpu, but obviously don't want to spend the money for a custom loop. What I would like to know is if I can simply use a Swiftech watercooler for the card? If so, which one?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion. I don't have a water block for the card. Let me rephrase, I want an A/0 water cooler for my gpu, but obviously don't want to spend the money for a custom loop. What I would like to know is if I can simply use a Swiftech watercooler for the card? If so, which one?


Unfortunately all of our kits come with a CPU water block. You can discard it though if you don't want to use it. The only kits you really can't do that with are our Elite kits and the H220 and H320 kits. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately all of our kits come with a CPU water block. You can discard it though if you don't want to use it. The only kits you really can't do that with are our Elite kits and the H220 and H320 kits. I hope this answers your question.


So I can remove the CPU waterblock and put attach a waterblock for the card and be good to go? And for clarification I would have to buy the H220X to do this. Sorry if the questions are kind of stupid. I'm new to watercooling.


----------



## BramSLI1

The H220X will suffice, or you could use any of our higher end water cooling kits like our Edge kits, or our Ultima HD kits. You will need to purchase the GPU water block separately though.


----------



## BlueLights

Hey all! Was just browsing through the pictures you all posted of your rigs sporting your H220's and noticed that not many have their blocks mounted the same way as I chose to mount mine. So i thought thought I would share mine with you all as well! I did see a few mounted similarly, and read that this orientation won't have any negative effects on the pump. Everything went in fairly easily and is running very smoothly. Great temps and very quiet. All in all I'm very pleased with my H220 and I can't see myself ever going back to air cooling. Parts should be here soon so I can include my crosschill cooler as well! Anyway, let me know what you all think! Always enjoy getting advice/opinions from other fellow enthusiasts!



Edit: sorry for all the edits >~< my phone decided to make this post rather difficult


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlueLights*
> 
> Hey all! Was just browsing through the pictures you all posted of your rigs sporting your H220's and noticed that not many have their blocks mounted the same way as I chose to mount mine. So i thought thought I would share mine with you all as well! I did see a few mounted similarly, and read that this orientation won't have any negative effects on the pump. Everything went in fairly easily and is running very smoothly. Great temps and very quiet. All in all I'm very pleased with my H220 and I can't see myself ever going back to air cooling. Parts should be here soon so I can include my crosschill cooler as well! Anyway, let me know what you all think! Always enjoy getting advice/opinions from other fellow enthusiasts!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: sorry for all the edits >~< my phone decided to make this post rather difficult


Remounted the block several times and now it's in the same position as yours,with the inlet on the bottom. In my mind it helps with the bleeding of the loop


----------



## rkinslo

Please add to club

image_id_1146069.jpg 379k .jpg file


----------



## Muskiehunter

So I'm not going over 972 pages this question ha-ha Does the Glacer 240L has the power to run a full loop for the cpu, gpu and two rads? More specifically, a 360 rad for cpu and a 240 rad for the gpu.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskiehunter*
> 
> So I'm not going over 972 pages this question ha-ha Does the Glacer 240L has the power to run a full loop for the cpu, gpu and two rads? More specifically, a 360 rad for cpu and a 240 rad for the gpu.


To put it simply, yes. If you need any help on figuring out how to do this here is a link that shows how to add a graphics card 



. It's not too much more difficult to also include another radiator.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkinslo*
> 
> 
> Please add to club
> 
> image_id_1146069.jpg 379k .jpg file


Have always wondered about dust and open test benches. Do you have to preriodically use compressed air or a datavac to remove the dust?


----------



## rkinslo

Yes it becomes dusty, I use a small brush also. You can always but a cover.


----------



## cephelix

thanks for that. An open test bench looks nice...
just the possibility of dust and accidentally spilling something on it is stopping me...lol


----------



## Neo Zuko

Watching this thread all month for H220X news. I'm going to practice hardline watercooling with it. I was one of the first with a H220 as well.


----------



## Muskiehunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> To put it simply, yes. If you need any help on figuring out how to do this here is a link that shows how to add a graphics card
> 
> 
> 
> . It's not too much more difficult to also include another radiator.


Thank you, i knew it wouldn't be very difficult.


----------



## Zombiejesus70

Ordering my Cooler Master Glacer 240L today along with a new build.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> thanks for that. An open test bench looks nice...
> just the possibility of dust and accidentally spilling something on it is stopping me...lol


Its no more dusty than a normal case and people that come by the house don't even know its a computer, normally they think its some sort of motorized model.

I also think because I'm on a bench it helps keep me in good temps with my GPU and CPU on the h220 240mm radiator alone. Waiting for the new swiftech pump to come out before I open the loop again.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya waiting for a look at that MCP50X too. Might be a good pump upgrade for me in the future


----------



## Neo Zuko

The only thing I worry about with the MCP50X is how will aftermarket support be for pump tops, heatsinks, and shiny covers. How fast companies like EK make products for the MCP50X remains to be seen.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> The only thing I worry about with the MCP50X is how will aftermarket support be for pump tops, heatsinks, and shiny covers. How fast companies like EK make products for the MCP50X remains to be seen.


Im sure it will be quick, the mcp35x got a lot of love.


----------



## Neo Zuko

True but you are comparing a multi-brand rebadged unit with a Swiftech proprietary one.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> The only thing I worry about with the MCP50X is how will aftermarket support be for pump tops, heatsinks, and shiny covers. How fast companies like EK make products for the MCP50X remains to be seen.


meh swiftech makes the best tops anyway, just look at the MCP35x2


----------



## WhiteRice

I just wanted to share some work I did over the weekend.



http://imgur.com/Xvt0X


Big thanks to Brian, Martin, and all the others who've given me advice or provided data.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> I just wanted to share some work I did over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Xvt0X
> 
> 
> Big thanks to Brian, Martin, and all the others who've given me advice or provided data.


If you mean me, then no problem and I'm glad I was able to help.


----------



## minimalist

Hey guys, I need some help here. I really, really, reallyyyy want to get a H320. It would be for my very first build. I'm a little worried for a few reasons though.

1) I pretty much have no clue how to troubleshoot should any small problem occur.

2) I'm going to be dumping a lot of money into the build and I'm worried about leaks and damaging parts. Should I be concerned about that? One comment I saw said that you can pretty much guarantee a leak with these AIO kits.

3) On youtube you see a bunch of videos of the pump making a weird noise and it has to be returned. I'm reading a lot about how you have to pay to ship broken or defective items which seems kind of annoying. I'm cheap and don't feel like spending more money because something is broke and I had nothing to do with it breaking. Is it a fix you yourself can do?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help here. I really, really, reallyyyy want to get a H320. It would be for my very first build. I'm a little worried for a few reasons though.
> 
> 1) I pretty much have no clue how to troubleshoot should any small problem occur.
> 
> 2) I'm going to be dumping a lot of money into the build and I'm worried about leaks and damaging parts. Should I be concerned about that? One comment I saw said that you can pretty much guarantee a leak with these AIO kits.
> 
> 3) On youtube you see a bunch of videos of the pump making a weird noise and it has to be returned. I'm reading a lot about how you have to pay to ship broken or defective items which seems kind of annoying. I'm cheap and don't feel like spending more money because something is broke and I had nothing to do with it breaking. Is it a fix you yourself can do?


1. The new revisions shouldn't have any pump noises given the new impeller design that makes it easier to remove air bubblea. Also,make sure the case you have would be able to mount the radiator with the res/fill port right side up. If you're in america then i would say there shouldnt be much of a hassle with rma-ing ur unit should it be faulty.

2.leaky parts and water damage are always a danger with any sort of water cooling,not just with the h220.thts why leak tests are done,either outside the case or usually,with everything mounted but nothing except the pump unit plugged into the psu and alot of paper towels just in case.

3.it definitely is something you can do yourself if you've watched the videos yourself.read through the thread,swiftech customer service is great and will guide you through it step by step if need be.i'm from singapore and customer service still handled me with no issue at all.

Overall,if you really want something low maintainence bla bla bla,go air.with water,there's always a chance of failure/leaks..what have you.but that's why u take the necessary steps to prevent that.

Sorry for my long post.


----------



## Mega Man

best place to start when learning watercooling is to check out the non item specific posts under "Misc" @
http://martinsliquidlab.org/


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> 1. The new revisions shouldn't have any pump noises given the new impeller design that makes it easier to remove air bubblea. Also,make sure the case you have would be able to mount the radiator with the res/fill port right side up. If you're in america then i would say there shouldnt be much of a hassle with rma-ing ur unit should it be faulty.
> 
> 2.leaky parts and water damage are always a danger with any sort of water cooling,not just with the h220.thts why leak tests are done,either outside the case or usually,with everything mounted but nothing except the pump unit plugged into the psu and alot of paper towels just in case.
> 
> 3.it definitely is something you can do yourself if you've watched the videos yourself.read through the thread,swiftech customer service is great and will guide you through it step by step if need be.i'm from singapore and customer service still handled me with no issue at all.
> 
> Overall,if you really want something low maintainence bla bla bla,go air.with water,there's always a chance of failure/leaks..what have you.but that's why u take the necessary steps to prevent that.
> 
> Sorry for my long post.


I appreciate the long post, thanks. I am in America but it's my understanding that technically they should be sold in America.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> 1. The new revisions shouldn't have any pump noises given the new impeller design that makes it easier to remove air bubblea. Also,make sure the case you have would be able to mount the radiator with the res/fill port right side up. If you're in america then i would say there shouldnt be much of a hassle with rma-ing ur unit should it be faulty.
> 
> 2.leaky parts and water damage are always a danger with any sort of water cooling,not just with the h220.thts why leak tests are done,either outside the case or usually,with everything mounted but nothing except the pump unit plugged into the psu and alot of paper towels just in case.
> 
> 3.it definitely is something you can do yourself if you've watched the videos yourself.read through the thread,swiftech customer service is great and will guide you through it step by step if need be.i'm from singapore and customer service still handled me with no issue at all.
> 
> Overall,if you really want something low maintainence bla bla bla,go air.with water,there's always a chance of failure/leaks..what have you.but that's why u take the necessary steps to prevent that.
> 
> Sorry for my long post.
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the long post, thanks. I am in America but it's my understanding that technically they should be sold in America.
Click to expand...

patent trolls have stopped that ! but there are many ways around it ( CM version, NCIX ect )


----------



## cephelix

Yeah,the h220 cannot be sold in america but you could always get the cm glacier which uses the h220 as it's base. If you really want the h220 though,then as mega man said,NCIX...
Wait for a bit,i think the h220x is coming out soon


----------



## 66racer

NCIX usa is where to get the h220 in america, or a cooler master glacier 240L from a few sources.


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> patent trolls have stopped that ! but there are many ways around it ( CM version, NCIX ect )


Ncix is where I planned on getting it. But from what I hear you have to ship back broken parts on your own dime which I hate. I try to avoid buying from places that do that.


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Yeah,the h220 cannot be sold in america but you could always get the cm glacier which uses the h220 as it's base. If you really want the h220 though,then as mega man said,NCIX...
> Wait for a bit,i think the h220x is coming out soon


Is there an h320x coming out? I really wanted a 360mm rad since I'll have the room.


----------



## cephelix

not sure about 360x, but h220x is should be out soon though. ifthat's the case then you could always get the cm glacier.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> Is there an h320x coming out? I really wanted a 360mm rad since I'll have the room.


No, unfortunately there are no plans for an H320X. The reason for this is that due to the fact that the pump and reservoir are located under the radiator this would take up too much space in most cases. It would make it nearly impossible to use most of the optical drive bays and therefore this version of the new kit isn't being considered.


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, unfortunately there are no plans for an H320X. The reason for this is that due to the fact that the pump and reservoir are located under the radiator this would take up too much space in most cases. It would make it nearly impossible to use most of the optical drive bays and therefore this version of the new kit isn't being considered.


Oh okay. Thanks for letting me know. I must say though, that's a shame to hear. It seems like optical bays are becoming more and more useless today. The case I'll be getting, NZXT H440 doesn't have any. But, I'm sure you guys know what sells better for you than I do lol. Any chance of a 280 setup?


----------



## cephelix

why not get a 220 and expand it with a 360mm rad? that's what i'm planning to do anyways..
which begs the qn, could the h220x be mounted upside down?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> Oh okay. Thanks for letting me know. I must say though, that's a shame to hear. It seems like optical bays are becoming more and more useless today. The case I'll be getting, NZXT H440 doesn't have any. But, I'm sure you guys know what sells better for you than I do lol. Any chance of a 280 setup?


Yes, we are planning a dual 140mm unit. It will be our H240X. It will most likely be released some time this summer.


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, we are planning a dual 140mm unit. It will be our H240X. It will most likely be released some time this summer.


Awesome!


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> why not get a 220 and expand it with a 360mm rad? that's what i'm planning to do anyways..
> which begs the qn, could the h220x be mounted upside down?


I just want to keep it simple for myself. This will be a part of my first build.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> I just want to keep it simple for myself. This will be a part of my first build.


ahhh, gotcha....well, all the best of luck for your build then


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> I just want to keep it simple for myself. This will be a part of my first build.


i mean if you really want to have options, Jabtech's 50% moving sale is probably a good investment if you ever want to expand


----------



## delpy8

Hi all
I've moved from a corsair 900d to the nzxt H440 and was wondering what radiator to use. I'm currently on the swiftech h320 fitted to the front of case but I now don't have space for any drive bays. Would the swiftech H2O220EDGE give me comparable temps going from 360mm to a 220 mm


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> why not get a 220 and expand it with a 360mm rad? that's what i'm planning to do anyways..
> which begs the qn, could the h220x be mounted upside down?


Am I right in saying I can get a smaller radiator and still use the cpu pump and block? If so will there be enough liguid going around the loop as Ive no reservoir on my radiator


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Am I right in saying I can get a smaller radiator and still use the cpu pump and block? If so will there be enough liguid going around the loop as Ive no reservoir on my radiator


You could, for liquid, you could use distilled water and an anti-corrosive like the Swiftech HydrX pm2 which is what is found in the h220. But it's best to have a reservoir somewhere, either built into the rad or a separate one like the swiftech microres to trap air bubbles and/or provide a source of fluid to the pump so it doesn't run dry.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks for that the swiftech micro res looks perfect


----------



## cephelix

no problem, now if only i could find one locally


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> i mean if you really want to have options, Jabtech's 50% moving sale is probably a good investment if you ever want to expand


I wouldn't even know where to begin on that site.


----------



## Mega Man

PUMP and rads are very very cheap

pump rads tubing and fittings IMO

then all you would need is cpu block, res ( you can get a rad that has a res built in from them as well, but i recommend a stand alone res ) they have d5s at half price

the sale is extremely cheap and not likely to happen again


----------



## minimalist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> PUMP and rads are very very cheap
> 
> pump rads tubing and fittings IMO
> 
> then all you would need is cpu block, res ( you can get a rad that has a res built in from them as well, but i recommend a stand alone res ) they have d5s at half price
> 
> the sale is extremely cheap and not likely to happen again


Any recommendations for those? What's the best size fittings and how many?


----------



## cephelix

too bad they dont ship to singapore......my cart was all loaded up and ready for checkout...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimalist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> PUMP and rads are very very cheap
> 
> pump rads tubing and fittings IMO
> 
> then all you would need is cpu block, res ( you can get a rad that has a res built in from them as well, but i recommend a stand alone res ) they have d5s at half price
> 
> the sale is extremely cheap and not likely to happen again
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations for those? What's the best size fittings and how many?
Click to expand...

mostly personal pref, as long as it it above 1/4" id you are fine there is only one pump left at that site that i saw


----------



## 66racer

Wanted to throw something out there. I was getting some noises from the pump as if there was a pocket of air stuck near the impellor. Only really with rpm changes for the most part and figured it was a good to crack the loop fill port open in case there was internal pressure or vacume and after allowing the reservoir to breathe the noises are gone. Might be worth a try for anyone getting weird noises from the pump. It wasn't a normal cavitating sound but more of a gargle.


----------



## cephelix

good to know..will keep that in mind when i swap out my impeller this weekend


----------



## NvidiaFan29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220X will suffice, or you could use any of our higher end water cooling kits like our Edge kits, or our Ultima HD kits. You will need to purchase the GPU water block separately though.


So if I get this:
http://www.swiftech.com/h2o-x20-elite.aspx

All I need is a GPU water block and I should be able to install it with 780 ti classified no problem?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> So if I get this:
> http://www.swiftech.com/h2o-x20-elite.aspx
> 
> All I need is a GPU water block and I should be able to install it with 780 ti classified no problem?


Yes, so long as the water block you get is compatible with the 780 ti classy.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvidiaFan29*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220X will suffice, or you could use any of our higher end water cooling kits like our Edge kits, or our Ultima HD kits. You will need to purchase the GPU water block separately though.
> 
> 
> 
> So if I get this:
> http://www.swiftech.com/h2o-x20-elite.aspx
> 
> All I need is a GPU water block and I should be able to install it with 780 ti classified no problem?
Click to expand...

you will also need fittings and more coolant, you can run straight distilled in it with a biocide like PT NUKE or iandh deadwater

IMO there is more then enough tubing in that kit


----------



## Aonex

Hi, I have a noob water cooling question, can the Glacer 240L be expanded to be used with an EK waterblock (Visiontek Cryovenom) along with the CPU? I assume I'd have to get a second radiator as well. Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aonex*
> 
> Hi, I have a noob water cooling question, can the Glacer 240L be expanded to be used with an EK waterblock (Visiontek Cryovenom) along with the CPU? I assume I'd have to get a second radiator as well. Thanks.


Yes, these kits can be expanded to include the GPU. Those GPUs run pretty hot so adding a second radiator isn't a bad idea.


----------



## Aonex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, these kits can be expanded to include the GPU. Those GPUs run pretty hot so adding a second radiator isn't a bad idea.


Thanks for the quick response. Just got the 240L and trying to figure out upgrades.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aonex*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response. Just got the 240L and trying to figure out upgrades.


I hacked mine apart without even taking the wrapper off of it, and only put it back on a CPU, and it works a dream every day!

Very easy to use and mess with.

Thanks - T


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I have a question, are the barbs removable on the radiator? Or are they fixed on it. I'm not gonna be near my computer for a couple days, otherwise I'd look for myself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have a question, are the barbs removable on the radiator? Or are they fixed on it. I'm not gonna be near my computer for a couple days, otherwise I'd look for myself.


The barbs on the radiator are not removable. They are permanently attached to the radiator.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Ok, thanks for the quick response.


----------



## degenn

My Swiftech H320 has started making a very loud ticking noise after being installed for about 3 months -- seems like it's on its way to failing. Doesn't sound like any air in the pump just sounds like a mechanical tick... any suggestions from anyone?

Will be very disappointed if this thing is failing after 3 months.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> My Swiftech H320 has started making a very loud ticking noise after being installed for about 3 months -- seems like it's on its way to failing. Doesn't sound like any air in the pump just sounds like a mechanical tick... any suggestions from anyone?
> 
> Will be very disappointed if this thing is failing after 3 months.


You'd be surprised what kind of noises air can make. Try the instructions in OP to see if that helps resolve your issue.


----------



## degenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'd be surprised what kind of noises air can make. Try the instructions in OP to see if that helps resolve your issue.


Followed all instructions in the OP and did what I did initially to flush out all air (I'm not new to watercooling), no change at all. The noise is getting progressively louder and more annoying and isn't going anywhere -- it sounds like the pump is about to explode. It's so loud that I literally cannot stand to use my computer at the moment -- I can hear it half-way down the hallway for crying out loud -- with my case door closed.

I bought this thing from NCIX in Canada, what are my options for RMA? How long is the turn-around for RMA's? How long am I going to be without a cooler for my rig? Please advise.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Followed all instructions in the OP and did what I did initially to flush out all air (I'm not new to watercooling), no change at all. The noise is getting progressively louder and more annoying and isn't going anywhere -- it sounds like the pump is about to explode. It's so loud that I literally cannot stand to use my computer at the moment -- I can hear it half-way down the hallway for crying out loud -- with my case door closed.
> 
> I bought this thing from NCIX in Canada, what are my options for RMA? How long is the turn-around for RMA's? How long am I going to be without a cooler for my rig? Please advise.


Have you taken the pump apart yet? If not I suggest to contact BramSLI1 so he can guild you through the process, also you won't void your warranty this way. You may have plasticizer buildup like many people have experienced. I did in mine and when I opened it up there was bunch in there, especially on the underside of the copper block. Cleaned it all out, reassembled my loop and filled. Took about 15 mins before all the air bubbles were gone. That's not doing anything, just letting it run.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi all
> I've moved from a corsair 900d to the nzxt H440 and was wondering what radiator to use. I'm currently on the swiftech h320 fitted to the front of case but I now don't have space for any drive bays. Would the swiftech H2O220EDGE give me comparable temps going from 360mm to a 220 mm


Hi guys would the 220EDGE give me the same temps


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *degenn*
> 
> Followed all instructions in the OP and did what I did initially to flush out all air (I'm not new to watercooling), no change at all. The noise is getting progressively louder and more annoying and isn't going anywhere -- it sounds like the pump is about to explode. It's so loud that I literally cannot stand to use my computer at the moment -- I can hear it half-way down the hallway for crying out loud -- with my case door closed.
> 
> I bought this thing from NCIX in Canada, what are my options for RMA? How long is the turn-around for RMA's? How long am I going to be without a cooler for my rig? Please advise.


I'm very sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting this resolved.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys would the 220EDGE give me the same temps


Yes, because both kits are quite similar. The Edge really only begins to show an advantage when you expand it because it has a stronger pump.


----------



## cephelix

My suspicions were confirmed! I have the old version of the impeller



It was making a horrendous noise, not unlike the videos on youtube.
Finally found some time to swap out a replacement impeller I received from Swiftech and now it's quiet again at full tilt.
Needed to touch the pump to feel it vibrating.

While dismantling the pump, look what I found....



The amount of plasticizers was a surprise. Used dilited vinegar and a toothbrush to clean out the fins.

Would like to thank Bryan and Cay from Swiftech. Without their prompt replies, quick service and detailed instructions on dismantling the pump, I would never have been able to rectify the situation.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> My suspicions were confirmed! I have the old version of the impeller
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was making a horrendous noise, not unlike the videos on youtube.
> Finally found some time to swap out a replacement impeller I received from Swiftech and now it's quiet again at full tilt.
> Needed to touch the pump to feel it vibrating.
> 
> While dismantling the pump, look what I found....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The amount of plasticizers was a surprise. Used dilited vinegar and a toothbrush to clean out the fins.
> 
> Would like to thank Bryan and Cay from Swiftech. Without their prompt replies, quick service and detailed instructions on dismantling the pump, I would never have been able to rectify the situation.


This is exactly what mine looked like when I took my pump apart. Then about a month later my pump decided to die on me. But BramSLI1 got me all taken care of with a replacement pump and it's running strong


----------



## cephelix

gd to know...but hopefully my pump doesnt die on me.....


----------



## gdubc

I was surprised by all the plasticizer in the tubes when I took mine off the other day as well. It sat in the box unused for over a year. Replaced the tube with ek zmt and I have been filtering it through a ghetto Lowes filter setup. Makes me wonder if I should take it all apart and clean it now. I was hoping since it hadn't been run ever, the plasticizers wouldn't have shifted inside too much but seeing all off that makes me wonder if I should just do it.


----------



## cephelix

better be safe than sorry i suppose.
but if it's running fine, then there's no reason to go thru all the hassle.


----------



## gdubc

I will see later today I guess. The pump has still never been run as I am using a pond pump just flushing the rad. I contemplated selling the h220 but I needed something for a temp. setup until the mcp50x is released (then my loop will be complete). That and I get too attached to some of my components that I can't bring myself to sell them, lol. Even though I had never used it, it is that way with the h220. I have problems....


----------



## cephelix

you and me both. Can't seem to throw away some old things but i keep buying new things...running out of storage space in my room now...


----------



## 66racer

I took my pump apart a while ago and found a SMALL amount of platicizer in my loop, Im super picky with stuff like this and was glad to clean it, but not much in there. The loop was expanded early in its life too though, think I had it stock maybe 2 weeks tops, then replaced all hose except for the ones on the pump in/out.

edit:
Here was the pic, literally maybe 2 weeks before expaning and then I checked 2 months of use and this is all I had.


----------



## cephelix

Since it's my first time watercooling, i was wondering,the fins on the back of the block still has black stuff tht i cannot remove with vinegar and a toothbrush.is that oxidation?and how do i remove it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Since it's my first time watercooling, i was wondering,the fins on the back of the block still has black stuff tht i cannot remove with vinegar and a toothbrush.is that oxidation?and how do i remove it?


Yes, it's likely that it's just oxidation. This won't have any impact at all on the performance of the pump or water block. You might be able to use a polish or metal stain remover, but it isn't really necessary.


----------



## cephelix

thanx for that bryan...if it has no effect, then it doesnt bother me....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Since it's my first time watercooling, i was wondering,the fins on the back of the block still has black stuff tht i cannot remove with vinegar and a toothbrush.is that oxidation?and how do i remove it?


you can leave it in a mild acid ( vinegar 5% ) , but as stated it does not hurt performance at all. you can keep it off the finish by using alcohol after every time you touch it


----------



## cephelix

thanx @Mega Man


----------



## Blackops_2

So was going to pick up a 780 classy this week, but found an awesome deal for a 780 Classy with a CSQ water block for 510$, still 900 days left on warranty.. I've given thought to going ahead and spending another 300-400 and finishing the loop. I'm thinking now i might expand the 240l just to keep cost down for the time being.

My question is, is the pre-fill fluid in the 240l Swiftech's HydrX PM2 coolant? Figured all i'd have to do, is clean the CSQ block well. Drain the loop, add some clear tubing, re-fill, prime, etc. and put it back in the case and go. Of course that's going to take quite some time but still.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So was going to pick up a 780 classy this week, but found an awesome deal for a 780 Classy with a CSQ water block for 510$, still 900 days left on warranty.. I've given thought to going ahead and spending another 300-400 and finishing the loop. I'm thinking now i might expand the 240l just to keep cost down for the time being.
> 
> My question is, is the pre-fill fluid in the 240l Swiftech's HydrX PM2 coolant? Figured all i'd have to do, is clean the CSQ block well. Drain the loop, add some clear tubing, re-fill, prime, etc. and put it back in the case and go. Of course that's going to take quite some time but still.


It's actually slightly different than our HydrX PM2. You can use our coolant though if you want to replace the stuff that's currently in it.


----------



## Blackops_2

That's what i'll probably do then. I guess just flush with distilled water when after i drain?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> That's what i'll probably do then. I guess just flush with distilled water when after i drain?


Yes, that should be fine. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## Blackops_2

Will do, thanks Bram.


----------



## Nightingale

My H220 in the past 2 days seems to have developed a constant ticking or grinding/rubbing sound. I purchased my unit from NCIX in Jan 2014. Could there be plasticiser build up in my unit?


----------



## cephelix

if it's ticking similar to what's been uploaded onto Youtube, then it could be air. How do you have the unit mounted?


----------



## Nightingale

It's Mounted vertically.


----------



## cephelix

and do you have an external res? or are you using the rad as a reservoir?


----------



## Nightingale

I do have a spare swiftech micro reservoir on hand. However my h200 has never been open or expanded yet. I tried removing the radiator and gently moving it around, essentially I followed throw the steps posted in the first thread. Problem still continues to persist and it's getting loud now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I do have a spare swiftech micro reservoir on hand. However my h200 has never been open or expanded yet. I tried removing the radiator and gently moving it around, essentially I followed throw the steps posted in the first thread. Problem still continues to persist and it's getting loud now.


Have you tried adding a couple drops of dish soap to the coolant? That seems to be a pretty consistent fix for persistent noise issues. Let me know if that resolves it for you.


----------



## cephelix

You could do wht bram suggested with the dish soap.but just add a tiny drop and see if tht helps to resolve the issue


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried adding a couple drops of dish soap to the coolant? That seems to be a pretty consistent fix for persistent noise issues. Let me know if that resolves it for you.


Huh didnt know about that. Is this to act as a lubricant?


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried adding a couple drops of dish soap to the coolant? That seems to be a pretty consistent fix for persistent noise issues. Let me know if that resolves it for you.


Yes and it's still making a loud noise, even if I rock my case back and forth.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Huh didnt know about that. Is this to act as a lubricant?


I think it acts to reduce surface tension so the bubbles cant adhere to surfaces as strongly


----------



## Nightingale

This is very close to how my pumps sounds currently ----


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> I think it acts to reduce surface tension so the bubbles cant adhere to surfaces as strongly


maybe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> This is very close to how my pumps sounds currently ----


haha I was going to say it sounds normal untill the 0:55 part.

Almost sounds like there is a restriction in the loop at full speed of some sort. I wonder if these radiators get clogged from the plasticizer?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> This is very close to how my pumps sounds currently ----


Yup, I got that same sound before i got the revised impeller. It's air trapped behind the impeller area. Since you mount the radiator vertically, the inbuilt reservoir can't function as it's supposed to and if there is evaporation, then the air now present in your system may just be recirculated.

Your best bet i suppose is to take apart everything for cleaning and then install a separate res i suppose. Bram should be able to help you more on that front


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Yup, I got that same sound before i got the revised impeller. It's air trapped behind the impeller area. Since you mount the radiator vertically, the inbuilt reservoir can't function as it's supposed to and if there is evaporation, then the air now present in your system may just be recirculated.
> 
> Your best bet i suppose is to take apart everything for cleaning and then install a separate res i suppose. Bram should be able to help you more on that front


No I meant I mounted the Cpu/Pump vertically. I have a corsair 800D the radiator is mounted horizontally.

The noise is getting louder and I expect the pump to fail in the very near future this does not sound like air trapped, although who knows maybe I am wrong. FYI that guy's h220 in the youtube video failed on him shortly thereafter. I would like swiftech's permission to dissemble the pump/block . I believe the procedure is for me to talk to bryan as he is the one who issues out the step by step instructions.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> No I meant I mounted the Cpu/Pump vertically. I have a corsair 800D the radiator is mounted horizontally.
> 
> The noise is getting louder and I expect the pump to fail in the very near future this does not sound like air trapped, although who knows maybe I am wrong. FYI that guy's h220 in the youtube video failed on him shortly thereafter. I would like swiftech's permission to dissemble the pump/block . I believe the procedure is for me to talk to bryan as he is the one who issues out the step by step instructions.


Ahh, sorry for that, my apologies. Well, i ran into the same problem, keeping my fingers crossed now.And yeah, talk to bryan. If possible,set up a webcam chat so he'll be able to oversee the disassembly of the unit to ensure it's not damaged.


----------



## Nightingale

I have had this unit running @ 3000 RPM at all times and decided to see what would happen if I lower the PWM speed down to 2000 RPM and the loud grinding/ticking noise has subsided. However the moment I up the speed to 3000 RPM it comes backs with a raging roar. I doubt this is air trapped. I have the rad unmounted currently in case i need to play with it more.


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Ahh, sorry for that, my apologies. Well, i ran into the same problem, keeping my fingers crossed now.And yeah, talk to bryan. If possible,set up a webcam chat so he'll be able to oversee the disassembly of the unit to ensure it's not damaged.


The pump is pretty simple to disassemble. I have taken apart D5's, CPX etc... plus martins review clearly demonstrates how the unit is put together. Non the less I do not want to void warranty and will wait for permission before I do anything.

Here is the exact issue I am having found a another youtube video that mimics my issue to the T.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> The pump is pretty simple to disassemble. I have taken apart D5's, CPX etc... plus martins review clearly demonstrates how the unit is put together. Non the less I do not want to void warranty and will wait for permission before I do anything.











Gd luck with it.....Hope all goes smoothly for you


----------



## Shadowarez

I want to setup my H320 like this but need to know which screws I need to attach this to top of case I know ill need long ones and shorter ones for fans.

H320 Push Pull


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> The pump is pretty simple to disassemble. I have taken apart D5's, CPX etc... plus martins review clearly demonstrates how the unit is put together. Non the less I do not want to void warranty and will wait for permission before I do anything.
> 
> Here is the exact issue I am having found a another youtube video that mimics my issue to the T.


PM me so that we can set up a time to Skype and I'll walk you through the process.


----------



## Nightingale

updated


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> _Question to BramSL1_: What are my options of getting this block/pump back in working order?


PM me so that we can discuss how to get it up and running again.


----------



## Nightingale

I sent you a PM


----------



## Herstal

A few questions from a watercooling newbie...

I bought a H220 to replace the H100i (which i accidentally burned, don't ask), with the intent to add the GPU to the loop. Since the loop is going to be installed in a tiny case (Ncase M1), i had to shorten the tubes. I proceeded to drain the loop, but when i cut the tubes to size i noticed the insides were covered in some white gunk. This is a brand new unit, although judging by its serial number it was manufactured last May. Should i disassemble the pump and clean it, just to be sure? What about the radiator?

For now, i assembled the loop with the CPU only (still waiting for the GPU block) to test it, which leads me to the second question - the only way i was able to cram the pump on my M6I was with the inlet barb on top. This would not be a problem if the radiator was on top, but since it's installed in an Ncase, it has to be positioned on its side, so the pump inlet barb is about at the same level as the rad outlet barb. I'm afraid that i can trap some air and damage the pump that way - any suggestions? Do i need an external reservoir to solve this issue?

Finally, coolant - for now the loop is temporarily running on gas station demi water. I have free access to an "infinite" supply of industrial demineralized/deionized water (~0,1μS) - would that work? Should i look at the pre-moxed coolants instead? I've read about lots of issues with many of those.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herstal*
> 
> A few questions from a watercooling newbie...
> 
> I bought a H220 to replace the H100i (which i accidentally burned, don't ask), with the intent to add the GPU to the loop. Since the loop is going to be installed in a tiny case (Ncase M1), i had to shorten the tubes. I proceeded to drain the loop, but when i cut the tubes to size i noticed the insides were covered in some white gunk. This is a brand new unit, although judging by its serial number it was manufactured last May. Should i disassemble the pump and clean it, just to be sure? What about the radiator?
> 
> For now, i assembled the loop with the CPU only (still waiting for the GPU block) to test it, which leads me to the second question - the only way i was able to cram the pump on my M6I was with the inlet barb on top. This would not be a problem if the radiator was on top, but since it's installed in an Ncase, it has to be positioned on its side, so the pump inlet barb is about at the same level as the rad outlet barb. I'm afraid that i can trap some air and damage the pump that way - any suggestions? Do i need an external reservoir to solve this issue?
> 
> Finally, coolant - for now the loop is temporarily running on gas station demi water. I have free access to an "infinite" supply of industrial demineralized/deionized water (~0,1μS) - would that work? Should i look at the pre-moxed coolants instead? I've read about lots of issues with many of those.


I'll try to help you where I can....
1. The white gunk is plasticizer from the tubes. It may cause a slightly reduced flow but it shouldnt be an issue.
2. To completely disassemble the pump for cleaning, you'd need BramSLI to over see things the process. For that you could drop him a PM or email.
3.With the rad on it's side, the inbuilt reservoir then does not perform as one. Therefore if you have space for a separate reservoir eg Swiftech microres, that should work to prevent air from circulating in you loop. It wont damage the pump per se, but the noise generated is certainly scary/annoying.
4.From my readings here on OCN, mind you i'm still new to watercooling. Ppl have suggested not to use deionised water. Distilled water with anticorrosives/biocide is one way. another is to use the swiftech HydrX PM2 or something similar.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herstal*
> 
> A few questions from a watercooling newbie...
> 
> I bought a H220 to replace the H100i (which i accidentally burned, don't ask), with the intent to add the GPU to the loop. Since the loop is going to be installed in a tiny case (Ncase M1), i had to shorten the tubes. I proceeded to drain the loop, but when i cut the tubes to size i noticed the insides were covered in some white gunk. This is a brand new unit, although judging by its serial number it was manufactured last May. Should i disassemble the pump and clean it, just to be sure? What about the radiator?
> 
> For now, i assembled the loop with the CPU only (still waiting for the GPU block) to test it, which leads me to the second question - the only way i was able to cram the pump on my M6I was with the inlet barb on top. This would not be a problem if the radiator was on top, but since it's installed in an Ncase, it has to be positioned on its side, so the pump inlet barb is about at the same level as the rad outlet barb. I'm afraid that i can trap some air and damage the pump that way - any suggestions? Do i need an external reservoir to solve this issue?
> 
> Finally, coolant - for now the loop is temporarily running on gas station demi water. I have free access to an "infinite" supply of industrial demineralized/deionized water (~0,1μS) - would that work? Should i look at the pre-moxed coolants instead? I've read about lots of issues with many of those.


Amazing little case. Can you fit a small reservoir on top or outside the case like this:

http://i.imgur.com/7t4Iyni.jpg

? If so that would probably be best since will guarantee that the system will bleed properly and the pump would not be feed regularly with air bubbles. If you did save the blue liquid that comes with the h220 you can re-use it and top it off with distill without a problem. If you didn´t save it then consider ordering a bottle of it or other good liquid like Mayhems Pastel.

Hope it helps


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herstal*
> 
> A few questions from a watercooling newbie...
> 
> I bought a H220 to replace the H100i (which i accidentally burned, don't ask), with the intent to add the GPU to the loop. Since the loop is going to be installed in a tiny case (Ncase M1), i had to shorten the tubes. I proceeded to drain the loop, but when i cut the tubes to size i noticed the insides were covered in some white gunk. This is a brand new unit, although judging by its serial number it was manufactured last May. Should i disassemble the pump and clean it, just to be sure? What about the radiator?
> 
> For now, i assembled the loop with the CPU only (still waiting for the GPU block) to test it, which leads me to the second question - the only way i was able to cram the pump on my M6I was with the inlet barb on top. This would not be a problem if the radiator was on top, but since it's installed in an Ncase, it has to be positioned on its side, so the pump inlet barb is about at the same level as the rad outlet barb. I'm afraid that i can trap some air and damage the pump that way - any suggestions? Do i need an external reservoir to solve this issue?
> 
> Finally, coolant - for now the loop is temporarily running on gas station demi water. I have free access to an "infinite" supply of industrial demineralized/deionized water (~0,1μS) - would that work? Should i look at the pre-moxed coolants instead? I've read about lots of issues with many of those.


you will still want a biocide but yes that water would be fine


----------



## Herstal

I could install an external res behind the case, but i don't think that would help much, as the pump inlet barb would still be above the res outlet? The Swiftech micro res would be a difficult fit inside, but i'll look into it.

Biocide - i've got glutaral (Hydrex 7510) at hand, i guess that should work fine.

EDIT: I'm starting to wonder if the additional res is really necessary though. The loop has been running for about two days now, it's been fully bled (with the case on its side), temps look fine, no gurgling sounds from the pump (it's not quiet, compared to the Corsair H100i, but not terribly loud)... I'll test it some more, but so far it looks encouraging. I will rebuild it all anyway once the GPU block is delivered.


----------



## Mega Man

that biocide looks to be somewhat acidic,

besides that it is way way way more then you need, it is for evap. cooling not closed loop

just buy yourself a bottle of iandh dead water or ptnuke, it is cheap, and a bottle lasts for many years ! one or two drops and your loop is good for a while !

keep your loop as close to pure water as you can, it is the best you can get for heat transfer !


----------



## Neo Zuko

I see part of my H220X on your website... lol... Just need the rest of it!!


----------



## 66racer

Im not a fan of the new look of that block but maybe it looks better in person. I kind of felt the same regarding the honeycomb on the h220 but in person I actually enjoy it.

Im waiting for the new pump


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herstal*
> 
> I could install an external res behind the case, but i don't think that would help much, as the pump inlet barb would still be above the res outlet? The Swiftech micro res would be a difficult fit inside, but i'll look into it.
> 
> Biocide - i've got glutaral (Hydrex 7510) at hand, i guess that should work fine.
> 
> EDIT: I'm starting to wonder if the additional res is really necessary though. The loop has been running for about two days now, it's been fully bled (with the case on its side), temps look fine, no gurgling sounds from the pump (it's not quiet, compared to the Corsair H100i, but not terribly loud)... I'll test it some more, but so far it looks encouraging. I will rebuild it all anyway once the GPU block is delivered.


You have another opening in the case with the rubber pass through on top. That would still be below the pump inlet? Anyway, if you think is doing fine then ok, keep an eye on it.


----------



## Muskiehunter

Well guys, thanks to the advise of some members on here, I decided to go a full custom loop using the cpu block and pump from the Glacer 240L. Here is the finished result, please be gentle on the tubing comments, its my first time and I also am not very happy with the routing at this point.


----------



## M3TAl

All looks nice, except that long run from cpu block to bottom res


----------



## Muskiehunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> All looks nice, except that long run from cpu block to bottom res


Yup, thats the one driving me nuts haha but I was rather limited how I could ( again first time ) run it with the fixed barbs on the cpu block.


----------



## cephelix

is it possible to mount your res higher so the tubing goes above the gpu?


----------



## Muskiehunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> is it possible to mount your res higher so the tubing goes above the gpu?


If I go higher, the mounting gets much less stable without case modding, and I also run into the 24 pin wiring. My thought so far is a 90 fitting to run even with the gpu, then 90 down and then yet ANOTHER 90 into the bottom of the res. but thats a lot of fittings.


----------



## cephelix

wht res are you using?
and yes, it requires quite a few 90 deg fittings for the res.
your loop is somewht similar to what i have planned


----------



## Muskiehunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> wht res are you using?
> and yes, it requires quite a few 90 deg fittings for the res.
> your loop is somewht similar to what i have planned


I grabbed it from my micro center in town.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/393100/Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir


----------



## cephelix

oh, yeah,with tht res it would require more 90 deg fittings. but it allows you to mount it horizontally though if you could find the space for it


----------



## Muskiehunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> oh, yeah,with tht res it would require more 90 deg fittings. but it allows you to mount it horizontally though if you could find the space for it


Its going to change a lot in the future im sure, I have been building pcs for less than a year, it started with a $500 build limit and here we are haha


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskiehunter*
> 
> Its going to change a lot in the future im sure, I have been building pcs for less than a year, it started with a $500 build limit and here we are haha


Classic!we never stick to the assigned budget for very long.anyways,it a great build.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muskiehunter*
> 
> Well guys, thanks to the advise of some members on here, I decided to go a full custom loop using the cpu block and pump from the Glacer 240L. Here is the finished result, please be gentle on the tubing comments, its my first time and I also am not very happy with the routing at this point.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Given the component order and res orientation it looks good regardless of the longer run from the block to ext res. Also the red is understated which is tough to come by in a lot of builds


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys.

Which of these two are better at cooling my cpu
The swiftech h320 or the H20-320 HD Edge


----------



## grunion

My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Hey guys, I am going to add another rad to my glacer 240l, and i am wondering what would be the easiest way to refill it with distilled water. The fill port is a little inconvienient to access


----------



## BillyMays14

Hey guys,

I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.

Note:
-I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
-In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
-I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
-I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?


I'd contact CM directly, they are pretty quick to respond in my usage (Cosmos II) and will get you sorted out. Bram on here with Swiftech, though, I think is a by a wide margin better








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Hey guys, I am going to add another rad to my glacer 240l, and i am wondering what would be the easiest way to refill it with distilled water. The fill port is a little inconvienient to access


Easiest would be to have an external resovoir in the loop so you can just keep it topped off at your desired level. However depending on your case/configuration (Assuming your using regular tubing) it could be just as easy to have the original 240 rad mounted up top and just unmount/refill when needed.

For my own usage I take the top filter off my Arc Midi R2 and have some of the actual grating of my case dremeled out so I only need to unscrew the original radiators plug from the top side and use a squeeze bottle with small hose to top off the loop. If you can achieve this in the Stacker it's worth the little bit of configuring.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyMays14*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.
> 
> Note:
> -I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
> -In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
> -I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
> -I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay


One thing that you need to keep in mind with an ITX motherboard is the distance between the CPU socket and the memory. We have not yet tested this kit on very many ITX boards, but you could run into issues with space due to how the barbs stick out on either side of the pump. Just something to consider. Other than that it looks like your proposed build should work.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?


I'm very sorry to hear about this. You will need to go through your reseller first, and if they are unable to assist you then please contact Cooler Master for warranty support.


----------



## BillyMays14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> One thing that you need to keep in mind with an ITX motherboard is the distance between the CPU socket and the memory. We have not yet tested this kit on very many ITX boards, but you could run into issues with space due to how the barbs stick out on either side of the pump. Just something to consider. Other than that it looks like your proposed build should work.


Perfect! I've already got the build installed, just adding in the rad and gpu so I already know the barbs fit in the Maximus Impact. Thanks for your help!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm very sorry to hear about this. You will need to go through your reseller first, and if they are unable to assist you then please contact Cooler Master for warranty support.


Way outside that window.

What will it be replaced with, bnib or a refurb?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Easiest would be to have an external resovoir in the loop so you can just keep it topped off at your desired level. However depending on your case/configuration (Assuming your using regular tubing) it could be just as easy to have the original 240 rad mounted up top and just unmount/refill when needed.
> 
> For my own usage I take the top filter off my Arc Midi R2 and have some of the actual grating of my case dremeled out so I only need to unscrew the original radiators plug from the top side and use a squeeze bottle with small hose to top off the loop. If you can achieve this in the Stacker it's worth the little bit of configuring.


Alright. Once my stacker arrives, i'll check it out and do a little modding if i have too. What about water levels? What if the pump goes dry when im bleeding it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Way outside that window.
> 
> What will it be replaced with, bnib or a refurb?


Unfortunately I don't have that information. We don't handle these replacements, they're handled by Cooler Master. You will need to contact them for warranty support.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyMays14*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.
> 
> Note:
> -I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
> -In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
> -I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
> -I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay


Why not the 240 up front and the 120 on top, you're removing the hdd cage anyway?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyMays14*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.
> 
> Note:
> -I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
> -In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
> -I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
> -I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay


My prodigy atm has a 240 on the top, and a 120 on the back with the fan mounted on the outside


----------



## BillyMays14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Why not the 240 up front and the 120 on top, you're removing the hdd cage anyway?


I read that the H220 has issues with air bubbles when mounted in front, if not then it will probably be a cleaner loop if I mount it up front.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> My prodigy atm has a 240 on the top, and a 120 on the back with the fan mounted on the outside


I thought of that but I don't want anything to go on the outside. Thanks for the suggestion though!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright. Once my stacker arrives, i'll check it out and do a little modding if i have too. What about water levels? What if the pump goes dry when im bleeding it?


You shouldn't have to worry bout that during the bleeding process since your water level should be around ~95% or more filled when you start doing it.

Initially it's good to try and get a lot of the more bigger and looser air bubbles out right before and after you prime the pump for the first time when you have finished the loop. I rotated mine pretty good both inside and outside the case before/after installation before doing final bleeding and leak testing.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

A
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> You shouldn't have to worry bout that during the bleeding process since your water level should be around ~95% or more filled when you start doing it.
> 
> Initially it's good to try and get a lot of the more bigger and looser air bubbles out right before and after you prime the pump for the first time when you have finished the loop. I rotated mine pretty good both inside and outside the case before/after installation before doing final bleeding and leak testing.


Alright, thanks. All of the updates will be posted in my build log.


----------



## bloodysummer

Hello!

New here! I got my H320 last December. Im from Philippines! Its way too hot here because its summertime. My H320 holding up temps 79-c83c-77c-76c







@4.4Ghz on 1.280v full load.
Here's my Rig with the H320 on it.











I already filled out the form. Anything else to do to make me an official member here? HAHA.
Im planning on adding extra rads and a reservoir.

I almost forgot, thanks to Bryan, i got a lot of questions on him thru email but every question got answered!

Thanks!


----------



## cephelix

Nope..it's pretty informal.just copy the sig link on the first page and add it to your signature..
And welcome to the club!do post pics of when you expand the loop tho


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> New here! I got my H320 last December. Im from Philippines! Its way too hot here because its summertime. My H320 holding up temps 79-c83c-77c-76c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @4.4Ghz on 1.280v full load.
> Here's my Rig with the H320 on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already filled out the form. Anything else to do to make me an official member here? HAHA.
> Im planning on adding extra rads and a reservoir.
> 
> I almost forgot, thanks to Bryan, i got a lot of questions on him thru email but every question got answered!
> 
> Thanks!


Looks great and I'm glad I could help.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So I get paid Friday... Will I be ordering a H220X on Friday????


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So I get paid Friday... Will I be ordering a H220X on Friday????


I asked on the swiftech forums, and the release date is May 1st. A question for Bram (Bryan?) Will the retailers start shipping out H220Xs on the 1st? Or does it only release on Swiftech's website on the 1st.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> I asked on the swiftech forums, and the release date is May 1st. A question for Bram (Bryan?) Will the retailers start shipping out H220Xs on the 1st? Or does it only release on Swiftech's website on the 1st.


It will release first from our website directly, and then our resellers will be able to purchase them and sell them. It will be up to the individual reseller though as to how soon they'll purchase them from us to distribute them.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It will release first from our website directly, and then our resellers will be able to purchase them and sell them. It will be up to the individual reseller though as to how soon they'll purchase them from us to distribute them.


I've had a preorder in with NCIX for a month or just over now! I don't know about other retailers, but the probability of NCIX having them nearly immediately seems pretty high


----------



## Shadowarez

Can I replace the distilled water in my H320 with ice dragon coolant and would this destroy my pump or ruin the tubing?


----------



## bloodysummer

@Bryan,

I have a question bout the h220x's, the pumps can be relocated right? or not?

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> I've had a preorder in with NCIX for a month or just over now! I don't know about other retailers, but the probability of NCIX having them nearly immediately seems pretty high


Yes, NCIX is going to get these very quickly because they requested pre-order capability for these kits. They will get them within just a day or two of when we get them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Can I replace the distilled water in my H320 with ice dragon coolant and would this destroy my pump or ruin the tubing?


Right now I wouldn't recommend it. We've seen some issues with these nanofluids causing some clogging issues within these pumps. If you are still intent on using it you will need to monitor it closely and watch for speed fluctuations that could indicate that the pump is starting to have issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> @Bryan,
> 
> I have a question bout the h220x's, the pumps can be relocated right? or not?
> 
> Thanks!


If you remove the pump then the radiator won't be sealed. The pump seals the radiator so you can't use one independently of the other. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## CM MR HAF

Hi,

I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?

There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?
> 
> There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


Hi Jon, thanks for the question, but you have to remember that the H220 came out some time before the Glacer did. This could account for some of the discrepancy. I'm sure that our members here though will be quite helpful with providing feedback on what else will be beneficial to the Glacer's design to improve its popularity.


----------



## bloodysummer

@BramSli









Thanks, I wish H220'x will arrive soon, I wanna get one when it comes here in Philippines


----------



## irek83

Hi ,I bought H220 two weeks ago and from the first day I hear the buzz from the pump. That's normal ?

Is the CPU temperature is good for H220?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irek83*
> 
> Hi ,I bought H220 two weeks ago and from the first day I hear the buzz from the pump. That's normal ?


It depends on whether or not the buzz that you're hearing is noticeable over the stock fans. If you can only just barely hear it when the fans are at their lowest and you really can't hear it all when they are at full speed, then this is normal. If you are experiencing noise that is louder than this though then please give the instructions in the OP for removing air from the pump to quiet it down.


----------



## irek83

I hear buzz all the time on idle and stress as well. Fans are quiet

@ Edit

where can I find the instructions how to do it ?


----------



## tcFA20

Hi, after reading through almost all the pages and after seeing so many different experiences with particularly the h220 I've decided to wait for the h220x. I like the idea of expandability later in the future and Swiftechs awesome customer service. I have an old Antec 1200 that I have plans to mod because I have the tools necessary and materials. My plan is to start with the H220x and then purchase a beefy 360 rad that I would mount in the front rite behind the intake fans in a P/P format. Therefore, would switching my original intake case fans for better ones and then what configuration of fans should I put on the rad in P/P to optimize the cooling? Would the h220x + 360 be sufficient to optimally cool my cpu & gpu? My PC is utilized for continuos general use and heavy gaming. I'm currently doing a full tear down of my PC and will completely overhaul it once Intel releases the new chips.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcFA20*
> 
> Hi, after reading through almost all the pages and after seeing so many different experiences with particularly the h220 I've decided to wait for the h220x. I like the idea of expandability later in the future and Swiftechs awesome customer service. I have an old Antec 1200 that I have plans to mod because I have the tools necessary and materials. My plan is to start with the H220x and then purchase a beefy 360 rad that I would mount in the front rite behind the intake fans in a P/P format. Therefore, would switching my original intake case fans for better ones and then what configuration of fans should I put on the rad in P/P to optimize the cooling? Would the h220x + 360 be sufficient to optimally cool my cpu & gpu? My PC is utilized for continuos general use and heavy gaming. I'm currently doing a full tear down of my PC and will completely overhaul it once Intel releases the new chips.


The H220X and an additional 3x120mm rad will be more than enough for just a CPU and GPU loop. You should get really good temperatures with a setup like that. Push/ pull is a personal choice and will depend on what radiator you plan to get, what fans you intend to use, and what noise level versus performance you're trying to get. There are too many variables to go over them all in a single post.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

How would a Coolermaster Glacer 240l + 360mm rad for 1 cpu and 1 gpu work? I am looking at being mainly quiet, but cooling power is always nice. Also how should i setup the loop? I don't have a GPU block atm, so i was thinking 240mm rad/res > Pump/CPU block > 360mm Rad > 240mmRad/Res.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> How would a Coolermaster Glacer 240l + 360mm rad for 1 cpu and 1 gpu work? I am looking at being mainly quiet, but cooling power is always nice. Also how should i setup the loop? I don't have a GPU block atm, so i was thinking 240mm rad/res > Pump/CPU block > 360mm Rad > 240mmRad/Res.
> 
> Thanks


The order of your loop doesn't make any difference. If this is being used in the HAF Stacker you should have enough room to put both radiators in the separate compartment and then just run the tubing down to your CPU/ pump. From there it will go to your GPU and then back up to the 3x120mm radiator. So long as you have the pump being fed directly by the Glacer's radiator after that it really doesn't make any difference how you set up the loop. Just make the shortest runs between components and that's why the GPU should come after the CPU/ pump unit.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The order of your loop doesn't make any difference. If this is being used in the HAF Stacker you should have enough room to put both radiators in the separate compartment and then just run the tubing down to your CPU/ pump. From there it will go to your GPU and then back up to the 3x120mm radiator. So long as you have the pump being fed directly by the Glacer's radiator after that it really doesn't make any difference how you set up the loop. Just make the shortest runs between components and that's why the GPU should come after the CPU/ pump unit.


Sounds good! Thanks.


----------



## tcFA20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220X and an additional 3x120mm rad will be more than enough for just a CPU and GPU loop. You should get really good temperatures with a setup like that. Push/ pull is a personal choice and will depend on what radiator you plan to get, what fans you intend to use, and what noise level versus performance you're trying to get. There are too many variables to go over them all in a single post.


After reading so many posts stating that P/P isn't worth it because of a 1-3° temp drop and then others stating that it can vary based on the rad itself and/or whether you have static pressure fans in combination with AF fans? I feel like there's more mixed reviews on this than solid info. As far as noise level to performance based on the little research I've done the GT-AP15's have dissapeared from the face of the earth and my next best being the Noctua NF-F12's. Anything in between or along those lines?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcFA20*
> 
> After reading so many posts stating that P/P isn't worth it because of a 1-3° temp drop and then others stating that it can vary based on the rad itself and/or whether you have static pressure fans in combination with AF fans? I feel like there's more mixed reviews on this than solid info. As far as noise level to performance based on the little research I've done the GT-AP15's have dissapeared from the face of the earth and my next best being the Noctua NF-F12's. Anything in between or along those lines?


I bought 5 GT Ap-14's off amazon. for 18 a piece. I would choose those over the noctuas.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> How would a Coolermaster Glacer 240l + 360mm rad for 1 cpu and 1 gpu work? I am looking at being mainly quiet, but cooling power is always nice. Also how should i setup the loop? I don't have a GPU block atm, so i was thinking 240mm rad/res > Pump/CPU block > 360mm Rad > 240mmRad/Res.
> 
> Thanks


I would also suggest putting a separate reservoir in the loop.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I would also suggest putting a separate reservoir in the loop.


Are there any cons for not having a separate res?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Are there any cons for not having a separate res?


Not really, but having a separate reservoir can help to prevent the pump from pulling air into it. It also gives you a visual means of checking your coolant level.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not really, but having a separate reservoir can help to prevent the pump from pulling air into it. It also gives you a visual means of checking your coolant level.


Alright, i may have to order one then.


----------



## tcFA20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not really, but having a separate reservoir can help to prevent the pump from pulling air into it. It also gives you a visual means of checking your coolant level.


Can you confirm if the reservoir from the H220x will be more effective towards air bubbles than that of the original H220? Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcFA20*
> 
> Can you confirm if the reservoir from the H220x will be more effective towards air bubbles than that of the original H220? Thanks.


Yes, because the reservoir in the H220X is located directly in front of the pump. This will drastically reduce the pump's ability to pull air into it because there is virtually nothing between the pump and the reservoir.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Does orientation matter for the H220x? Such as vertical... Etc


----------



## grunion

Hey Cooler Master I got my RMA approved

Couple of question, any accessories need to be returned and is the label PP?

rma CUSUS144336


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Does orientation matter for the H220x? Such as vertical... Etc


Do you mean the orientation of the radiator?


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?
> 
> There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


The quick, helpful replies from Bram and others in this thread is what made me purchase the H220.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> The quick, helpful replies from Bram and others in this thread is what made me purchase the H220.


Agreed!...anyways,the h220 was released before the glacer and that is what most of us snapped up i suppose


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you mean the orientation of the radiator?


Yes, can I place the rad vertical?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Yes, can I place the rad vertical?


That shouldn't be a problem. Being that the pump and reservoir are on the radiator this shouldn't pose any issues, but you will need to have the pump and reservoir located at the bottom to prevent air from collecting there once evaporation starts to set in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?
> 
> There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


send people to this forum for questions lol
that i think is why more have the h220 vs the glacer

the only other thing i think would make this better is a pwm splitter ( not necessarily a swiftech 8 hub. just a basic wired splitter that pulls power from either fan header or sata/molex and sends a pwm signal from one header to all fans/pumps. i hate not having that kind of control. but hey i am a weird freak about that, that is why i use an aquaero )

this is one of my fav accessories on the MCP35x2 esp since i can not only send the same pwm signal out. but i can also monitor the rpms using another header ( i use my mobo headers for monitoring RPM signals ONLY )

and as soon as i order my sleaving stuffs, i will be making my own just like this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcFA20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220X and an additional 3x120mm rad will be more than enough for just a CPU and GPU loop. You should get really good temperatures with a setup like that. Push/ pull is a personal choice and will depend on what radiator you plan to get, what fans you intend to use, and what noise level versus performance you're trying to get. There are too many variables to go over them all in a single post.
> 
> 
> 
> After reading so many posts stating that P/P isn't worth it because of a 1-3° temp drop and then others stating that it can vary based on the rad itself and/or whether you have static pressure fans in combination with AF fans? I feel like there's more mixed reviews on this than solid info. As far as noise level to performance based on the little research I've done the GT-AP15's have dissapeared from the face of the earth and my next best being the Noctua NF-F12's. Anything in between or along those lines?
Click to expand...

check martinsliquidlab idr where i saw it and my internet is not that great ( overseas atm )

but on most thin rads you really wont see an improvement on temps no. however some like it which is fine, and again this is assuming using a good fan

gentle typhoons are not gone but they are only made by nidec-servo


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That shouldn't be a problem. Being that the pump and reservoir are on the radiator this shouldn't pose any issues, but you will need to have the pump and reservoir located at the bottom to prevent air from collecting there once evaporation starts to set in.


Yes, I'm quoting myself here. In talking with Gabe it doesn't matter where the pump and reservoir are placed when the radiator is mounted vertically. The only configuration that doesn't work with the new H220X is that of having the radiator mounted horizontally with the pump and reservoir above it. This configuration just doesn't work. I hope this provides more clarity and lets you know that only one possible configuration is not an option for installation.


----------



## rojell

Bram I have a quick question for you. I am doing a build in a 540 air and want to put the h220x in the top like normal. What I am going to do is lay the case on it's side with the window up. Will the h220x work ok in this orientation?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rojell*
> 
> Bram I have a quick question for you. I am doing a build in a 540 air and want to put the h220x in the top like normal. What I am going to do is lay the case on it's side with the window up. Will the h220x work ok in this orientation?


Yes, that should be fine.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?
> 
> There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


Hi Jon, I think a lot of it was the amount of time the H220 was the only variant available, as Bryan mentioned. Some of it too though is probably all the people I and others have directed to this very thread for support and questions about the unit. I know in the past I've posted a lot of info about it on OC3D and LTT with a link the this thread as well.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Great, I have a CaseLabs SM8 case where I could place the H220X 240 rad with the pump and res in the front bays and stash another 480 rad in the roof.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I noticed only 14% of the people here polled have Glacers vs 45% have H220. We wanted to ensure Glacer is as successful as H220 especially in regions like USA that aren't selling H220 anylonger. Since we are all already owners of H220 or Glacer, Is there any differences that pushed your preferences toward one or the other?
> 
> There is a chance that we could improve Glacer beyond H220, and if so, we would like to ask the club owners here first how it should be done.


The Glacer tends to be more expensive and people go to NCIX for the $100 H220s. Also, it seems that your pump wires tend to catch fire more easily than the sleeved Swiftech ones (could just be improper installation, but who knows). I had to get an 8-way Swiftech Splitter to keep my fans at an even pace, while the H220 comes standard with one. Overall, its a superb product and has a beautiful look to it. Ideally, you guys could direct us to Swiftech to RMA it and they send you the refurb units\directly back to us.

BTW: The Glacer, like its H220 counterpart suffers from bad mounting on motherboards with wide VRM heatsinks, I had to dremel out part of the bottom left mounting bracket in order for it to fit.


----------



## CM MR HAF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> The Glacer tends to be more expensive and people go to NCIX for the $100 H220s. Also, it seems that your pump wires tend to catch fire more easily than the sleeved Swiftech ones (could just be improper installation, but who knows). I had to get an 8-way Swiftech Splitter to keep my fans at an even pace, while the H220 comes standard with one. Overall, its a superb product and has a beautiful look to it. Ideally, you guys could direct us to Swiftech to RMA it and they send you the refurb units\directly back to us.
> 
> BTW: The Glacer, like its H220 counterpart suffers from bad mounting on motherboards with wide VRM heatsinks, I had to dremel out part of the bottom left mounting bracket in order for it to fit.


The latest Glacers should have fixed that as we requested a solution in change from Swiftech.


----------



## Azefore

Might be just me but the face plate for cpu/pump combo of the Glacer seems a bit more lackluster than the original H220. It leaves room for easy modification but I doubt the main majority of buyers will, a light or even some hint of a grey/black contrast would be nice.

An included fan splitter would be a good addition like the Swiftech, it's been loyal to me in my usage so far.

One thing that would be nice, and idk if it's possible, but being able to let users put in their own right angle or 45 degree fittings, be it compression or barb, would make it super appealing imho.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> The latest Glacers should have fixed that as we requested a solution in change from Swiftech.


Which, the fire or mounting bracket?


----------



## rojell

cool thanks for the fast reply bram







can't wait to get my hands on the h220x and see what it can do


----------



## SouthernStyle

Hey guys, I just wanted to come in and post a follow-up of my Glacer 240L. I installed it back in December and yesterday I did my first maintenance: topped off fluid (barely took anything) and cleaned the rads and fans. My loop is expanded with an Alphacool NexXxos XT45, using all Primochill Advanced LRT tubing and Bitspower fittings.

Since the day I installed it I have yet to hear a single noise of any kind from any part of the loop. I have had zero problems whatsoever and my FX-8350 @4.7 1.52v has yet to see over 54c under any type of load (chip is 12+ hr Prime95 blend and 20 pass IBT/AVX Maximum stable). The system has been shutdown during the past 6 months for maybe a total of 2 hours.

I could not be happier with the performance of this kit so far, and I do not forsee any problems barring something completely random just popping up out of nowhere. So thanks again to Swiftech and CoolerMaster for putting this together for us.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SouthernStyle*
> 
> Hey guys, I just wanted to come in and post a follow-up of my Glacer 240L. I installed it back in December and yesterday I did my first maintenance: topped off fluid (barely took anything) and cleaned the rads and fans. My loop is expanded with an Alphacool NexXxos XT45, using all Primochill Advanced LRT tubing and Bitspower fittings.
> 
> Since the day I installed it I have yet to hear a single noise of any kind from any part of the loop. I have had zero problems whatsoever and my FX-8350 @4.7 1.52v has yet to see over 54c under any type of load (chip is 12+ hr Prime95 blend and 20 pass IBT/AVX Maximum stable). The system has been shutdown during the past 6 months for maybe a total of 2 hours.
> 
> I could not be happier with the performance of this kit so far, and I do not forsee any problems barring something completely random just popping up out of nowhere. So thanks again to Swiftech and CoolerMaster for putting this together for us.


Got any pictures of this beastly machine?


----------



## SouthernStyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Got any pictures of this beastly machine?


Haha, yea the ones in my sig album "The Grinder". They aren't the best pics (iPhone). My Vapor-X R9 290 comes in Wednesday so I'll be taking some new ones with a good camera and I'll be sure to come post them


----------



## Sand3853

Hey everyone... I have the H220 with a second h220 rad installed and I've been having the hardest time getting the last few air bubbles out of the pump. Under normal operation everything is pretty darn quiet, but as the pump ramps up, it sounds like the flood gates have opened up. Anyways, I've drained and filled this thing twice and am wondering if there is anything I'm missing or tips to get the bubbles out


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Hey everyone... I have the H220 with a second h220 rad installed and I've been having the hardest time getting the last few air bubbles out of the pump. Under normal operation everything is pretty darn quiet, but as the pump ramps up, it sounds like the flood gates have opened up. Anyways, I've drained and filled this thing twice and am wondering if there is anything I'm missing or tips to get the bubbles out


What I've done with these kits is pour a little coolant into both ports on either side of the pump before connecting the tubing. This helps to prevent the pump from sucking air into it when you fill it and it helps to bleed it more easily. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## 66racer

Since some people mention using dish soap in the loop to help keep it quiet, I decided to try out mayhems pastel red. I have to say every now and then on straight distilled I would get some random bubble sound from the bump at mid to lower rpms but since adding the mayhems concentrate I havent heard it yet, even with the pump at the slowest speed which would be when I would hear it most (but still intermittent). knock on wood


----------



## M3TAl

Pastel is an absolutely wonderful product. Had to ditch mine though







. My own fault. Hoping to return to pastel eventually, maybe try X1.


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What I've done with these kits is pour a little coolant into both ports on either side of the pump before connecting the tubing. This helps to prevent the pump from sucking air into it when you fill it and it helps to bleed it more easily. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


Thanks for the tip







Things are nice and quiet now, and my idle temp dropped a few degrees too.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Hey everyone... I have the H220 with a second h220 rad installed and I've been having the hardest time getting the last few air bubbles out of the pump. Under normal operation everything is pretty darn quiet, but as the pump ramps up, it sounds like the flood gates have opened up. Anyways, I've drained and filled this thing twice and am wondering if there is anything I'm missing or tips to get the bubbles out


I am having the same problem. I have run it on its side and tilted back for 3 mins each direction. I see no bubbles anywhere in my loop.
Got the Micro Res filled to the top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> I am having the same problem. I have run it on its side and tilted back for 3 mins each direction. I see no bubbles anywhere in my loop.
> Got the Micro Res filled to the top.


In that case try adding a couple of drops of dish soap to your coolant and see if that resolves your issue.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In that case try adding a couple of drops of dish soap to your coolant and see if that resolves your issue.


Thanks Bram,
I will give it a try tomorrow.


----------



## Duke976

Today was another one of those days when my pump decided to malfunction. While playing an online game, my comp all of a sudden gave me blue screen. Upon checking the bios, the temp started from 75 then went all the way to 80 before shutting down on me.

This time i decided to disassemble the unit all the way to the pump. I wasn't surprise when i saw all those residue at the base. i cleaned it with soap and toothbrush and then flush the rad and the pump for about 20 min. After that i followed the instruction on how to avoid the famous *trap air bubbles* Good thing that i have an unused Hydrx from Microcenter that i bought last year. Bought a distilled water from Pathmark and that got me going. After 2 hours of testing, i decided it was time to put it back in my system. I couldn't be more happy with the result. Temp went down from 68 to 60 while playing games.

I just hated the fact that to get this result i have to disassemble to unit. The unit is superb when it works properly but can turn into nightmare in heartbeat.


----------



## cephelix

Great that it was fixed and you didnt have to rma the unit @Duke976. If you disassembled it, try changing the tubing to the Primochill advance LRT. I've heard that it doesn't have issues with plasticizers. but if you do use it, you'll probably need slightly larger hose clamps as for some reason the OD is somewhat larger than the stated size.

Also, occasionally imo, it's gd to apply a very small amount of silicone grease to the o-rings to prevent them drying out and cracking.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I think I will run my H220X with Noprene or EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing).


----------



## M3TAl

Maybe it was just the specific noprene/neoprene whatever it's called that Antec used on their Kuhlers but that stuff seemed like a magnet for dust/grime. It would always start looking dirty and dusty. Taking some isopropyl alcohol to it with paper towel always resulted in brown gunk coming off. Really was my only gripe with it though.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Better outside than inside with leeching right?


----------



## M3TAl

True. It's probably not even a real problem for most. I haven't really seen anyone else complain about it, corsair or other brands. I had a Kuhler 620 and 920, they both exhibited grime buildup on the outside. Maybe it's just me lol.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Great that it was fixed and you didnt have to rma the unit @Duke976


If that didnt work then my next step was to contact bryan for the 3rd RMA. But knock on wood, hope this last this time around.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> If that didnt work then my next step was to contact bryan for the 3rd RMA. But knock on wood, hope this last this time around.


Yeah, knock on wood...hopefully mine lasts as well


----------



## grunion

So how has everyone elses 240L fail?

Mine actually caught fire where the leads enter the pump.


----------



## cephelix

whoa,that's serious.for the most part i see pumps just stop working.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> So how has everyone elses 240L fail?
> 
> Mine actually caught fire where the leads enter the pump.


8 months on mine no problems yet. It's expanded to include a bay res and gpu block.


----------



## yolky

Recently my pump has started malfunctioning (h320). It would stop working while I'm using the computer then the temperatures would increase and the fans would get noisy. The in maybe 20 minutes the pump would start working again, but only for a few minutes. Has anyone had a similar issue? Does anyone know if disassembling, cleaning and refilling the unit would help? Would this void the warranty?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolky*
> 
> Recently my pump has started malfunctioning (h320). It would stop working while I'm using the computer then the temperatures would increase and the fans would get noisy. The in maybe 20 minutes the pump would start working again, but only for a few minutes. Has anyone had a similar issue? Does anyone know if disassembling, cleaning and refilling the unit would help? Would this void the warranty?


do drop @BramSLI1 a pm or email regarding the issue. If you were to disassemble the unit yourself, you'd need to set up a video session so he can guide you through the process to make sure the unit isn't damaged during disassembly/reassembly.


----------



## MadGoat

Thinking about upgrading the rad on my H220...

How well do you think the H220 pump would do with a Magicool Extreme Triple 180mm Slim Rad?



Im thinking about doing the RV/FT02 bottom radiator thing. Im almost sure the H220 pump/block would do great with it. Just wanna get some opinions...


----------



## M3TAl

Aren't those slim magicool very restrictive? I'd look it up but I'm out of town on the phone.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> So how has everyone elses 240L fail?
> 
> Mine actually caught fire where the leads enter the pump.


I've had mine since November 2013 and haven't had a problem yet. Though my motherboard has the pump running about 900-1000rpm i've never seen it go above that.

I'm planning on moving my AMD rig from my thermaltake armor extreme to a Corsair 450D, adding the glacer, a block for the 7970, and a res to hopefully help bleed the loop. Going to finish my main rig first though. Still have a lot of watercooling parts to get for it.


----------



## selk22

Just wanted to post here on an interesting find I had about my h220 pump failing.

I live on a mountain and a buddy of mine lives at a much lower sea level than I.. Over the weekend I was bringing my PC to his house and when I get there the h220 pump was dead. I was stunned and not to happy, I called Swiftech and Bryan told me not to panic and that most likely air had gotten into the pump. I removed the air cap and tilted things around for quite a while. Multiple air bubbles escaped a loop that had previously had 0 air bubbles. I let it run for a few hours and topped it off and boom the pump was alive and everything was great no CPU fan error!

So the short lesson here is if you move your PC to a lower altitude from a high one and your h220 stops working, its probably not dead just needs a little help









Thanks very much to Bryan at Swiftech. Its not the first time you have saved the day


----------



## X-Alt

One guy with a 240L caught fire, the early ones I think had the problem.


----------



## NitrousX

I accidentally snapped one of the spring loaded screws as I was remounting the water block of my Glacer 240L. Does anyone here know what the quickest way is to get a set of replacement screws is? I do a lot of day to day work on my computer so I need to get it up and running ASAP. I've contacted Cooler Master and have not heard back from them yet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> I accidentally snapped one of the spring loaded screws as I was remounting the water block of my Glacer 240L. Does anyone here know what the quickest way is to get a set of replacement screws is? I do a lot of day to day work on my computer so I need to get it up and running ASAP. I've contacted Cooler Master and have not heard back from them yet.


Being that the Glacer is based on the H220 you can use the same mounting system as our Apogee Drive II unit. We have the mounting kits and replacement screws for this unit available on our website and they are also compatible with the H220.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yolky*
> 
> Recently my pump has started malfunctioning (h320). It would stop working while I'm using the computer then the temperatures would increase and the fans would get noisy. The in maybe 20 minutes the pump would start working again, but only for a few minutes. Has anyone had a similar issue? Does anyone know if disassembling, cleaning and refilling the unit would help? Would this void the warranty?


do drop @BramSLI1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Just wanted to post here on an interesting find I had about my h220 pump failing.
> 
> I live on a mountain and a buddy of mine lives at a much lower sea level than I.. Over the weekend I was bringing my PC to his house and when I get there the h220 pump was dead. I was stunned and not to happy, I called Swiftech and Bryan told me not to panic and that most likely air had gotten into the pump. I removed the air cap and tilted things around for quite a while. Multiple air bubbles escaped a loop that had previously had 0 air bubbles. I let it run for a few hours and topped it off and boom the pump was alive and everything was great no CPU fan error!
> 
> So the short lesson here is if you move your PC to a lower altitude from a high one and your h220 stops working, its probably not dead just needs a little help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much to Bryan at Swiftech. Its not the first time you have saved the day


that is very interesting indeed.glad your pump is ok....


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Being that the Glacer is based on the H220 you can use the same mounting system as our Apogee Drive II unit. We have the mounting kits and replacement screws for this unit available on our website and they are also compatible with the H220.


It even looks better with the bigger APD2 screws. I once knew a guy that put those on an H220...


----------



## CM Norumu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> I accidentally snapped one of the spring loaded screws as I was remounting the water block of my Glacer 240L. Does anyone here know what the quickest way is to get a set of replacement screws is? I do a lot of day to day work on my computer so I need to get it up and running ASAP. I've contacted Cooler Master and have not heard back from them yet.


Hey friend, we do have live support available to you through a couple of venues:

Live Online Chat
Phone: 1-888-624-5099 and connect to customer support
Otherwise, if you PM me a ticket number (as I assume you setup a ticket since you mentioned contacting but not hearing back), I can make sure our support team gets on it ASAP


----------



## CM Norumu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> So how has everyone elses 240L fail?
> 
> Mine actually caught fire where the leads enter the pump.


Have you been working with our support team on this?

Live Chat
Ticket submission
Phone: 1-888-624-5099 and follow the prompts for customer support


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Norumu*
> 
> Have you been working with our support team on this?
> 
> Live Chat
> Ticket submission
> Phone: 1-888-624-5099 and follow the prompts for customer support


Yes the RMA has been approved, shipped out already.

RMA is CUSUS144336
I was told it would be a BNIB rev 2, is this true?


----------



## CM Norumu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Yes the RMA has been approved, shipped out already.
> 
> RMA is CUSUS144336
> I was told it would be a BNIB rev 2, is this true?


I checked with our support team and they will indeed be sending the rev2, just like they said


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Norumu*
> 
> I checked with our support team and they will indeed be sending the rev2, just like they said


Thanks, BNIB with all the accessories?

Oh and can you get the return shipping expedited?

I'd hate to stop recommending Cooler Master products to our consumer base


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Yay a new CM Rep! Welcome!


----------



## bloodysummer

Can i use, dyes with distilled water or Propylene Glycol Based Coolant as a substitute to my h320's coolant?


----------



## 66racer

Glad to see a CM rep for the 240L users. Having an active rep on OCN is a big deciding factor when split between a products, customer service is a huge plus for me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> Can i use, dyes with distilled water or Propylene Glycol Based Coolant as a substitute to my h320's coolant?


You have to be careful with dyes because they have a tendency to break down over time and can end up clogging the pump, water block(s), or radiator(s). I've experienced this myself with a much stronger pump than the one that these kits come with. I really wouldn't recommend it. Propylene glycol should be fine as an additive though.


----------



## thelude

Will we see any reviews for the H220X or the new pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Will we see any reviews for the H220X or the new pump?


Right now that doesn't look like it's going to happen before they're released. We do have plans to have these reviewed though, but that will have to happen after the release.


----------



## CM Norumu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Yay a new CM Rep! Welcome!


Thanks! Glad to be here







(and everywhere else)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Glad to see a CM rep for the 240L users. Having an active rep on OCN is a big deciding factor when split between a products, customer service is a huge plus for me


We are here and we do care! At the same time, though, we're human and have 126745152432 things to take care of. But if you need anything, don't be afraid to ask. I can only really speak for our North American office, but if you need customer servicey things: Contact Us and setup a ticket, open live chat, or even give us a call. We're here to make sure you're well and good


----------



## zila

Hey guys, anyone here ever have an H220 pump melt down wires and catch on fire? The reason I ask is because I just had it happen to me today. Scary stuff to go through.

I've been having weird symptoms with my cooler for the last few weeks and in the process of troubleshooting the problem. I flushed and cleaned the cooler with help of Bram. I changed the t.i.m. went to different fans etc., all the normal things that one would do when looking for a performance issue. I had no idea or suspicion that I had a possible bad wire on there.

I have always been very careful with my kit as I am with everything I own so this was surprising.

I'm hoping that this will get resolved with Swiftech without much of a problem but now I am very concerned as to the quality of these kits. This is my second one so far. The first didn't last but a couple of months I think it was and this one is about 7 months old.

I have to remove the H220 so I can try another cooler and see if the rig will boot up again.

I had a cpu fan error, an abrupt shut down and a small fire and some smoke. Got melted wire on the pump.

I have to take some pictures of the situation and show them to Bram and see what he thinks about this. I'm sure he's scratching his head right now as much as I am.

Wish me luck fellas, I hope my rig is alright.

Edit: Just got word from Bram that he's gonna exchange the kit for me. Greatest support on the planet.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Hey guys, anyone here ever have an H220 pump melt down wires and catch on fire? The reason I ask is because I just had it happen to me today. Scary stuff to go through.
> 
> I've been having weird symptoms with my cooler for the last few weeks and in the process of troubleshooting the problem. I flushed and cleaned the cooler with help of Bram. I changed the t.i.m. went to different fans etc., all the normal things that one would do when looking for a performance issue. I had no idea or suspicion that I had a possible bad wire on there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have always been very careful with my kit as I am with everything I own so this was surprising.
> 
> I'm hoping that this will get resolved with Swiftech without much of a problem but now I am very concerned as to the quality of these kits. This is my second one so far. The first didn't last but a couple of months I think it was and this one is about 7 months old.
> 
> I have to remove the H220 so I can try another cooler and see if the rig will boot up again.
> 
> I had a cpu fan error, an abrupt shut down and a small fire and some smoke. Got melted wire on the pump.
> 
> I have to take some pictures of the situation and show them to Bram and see what he thinks about this. I'm sure he's scratching his head right now as much as I am.
> 
> Wish me luck fellas, I hope my rig is alright.
> 
> Edit: Just got word from Bram that he's gonna exchange the kit for me. Greatest support on the planet.


Wow man, that sucks but glad they got back to you so fast. I think this is the 3rd one in here mentioned, at least second as grunion had this happen and I think one other member. Its issues like this that make me want to upgrade the pump when swiftech released the mcp50x or whatever it will be called. That or go with an apogee drive ii, I do also just love trying new parts so its not all to blame on these stories.


----------



## zila

Yeah, it's sad that it happened. A very unexpected thing to say the least. But Bram jumped on it as soon as I pm'd him about it. Really great support.

You know what, I'd buy another Swiftech product again just because of this. Gabe and the boys are kickin' ass in the support arena.


----------



## bloodysummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You have to be careful with dyes because they have a tendency to break down over time and can end up clogging the pump, water block(s), or radiator(s). I've experienced this myself with a much stronger pump than the one that these kits come with. I really wouldn't recommend it. Propylene glycol should be fine as an additive though.


Thanks










Anyways some of my additional parts have arrived







A good friend gave them to me.



Im still saving for the gpu block and fittings. Ill be adding these to my H320


----------



## Shadowarez

Can we get a stronger/Replacement pump for the H320 kit? As a just incase as my Current cooler is already starting to show its weaknesses in keeping temps down id like to have a back up when I get to switch in my H320.


----------



## Spongeworthy

THE DAY IS UPON US. WHERE IS THE H220X?


----------



## bloodysummer

I wish they would haha. Anyway, how may L/H does the H320 pump do?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> how may L/H does the H320 pump do?


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/4/

H220 = H320 Pump/Block has maximum flow rate of ~0.80GPM = ~182LPH.


----------



## bloodysummer

Thank you


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yeah, it's sad that it happened. A very unexpected thing to say the least. But Bram jumped on it as soon as I pm'd him about it. Really great support.
> 
> You know what, I'd buy another Swiftech product again just because of this. Gabe and the boys are kickin' ass in the support arena.


100% Agreed! I'm still sitting on my H220X preorder largely due to the amazing support I've seen in this Forum (and on Swiftech's own). NOT hiding problems from the public, but acknowledging them and responding with speedy resolutions.......many companies that desire to part my dollars from my fist should learn from this!

And to the new CM guys, welcome! You've had the foresight to align yourselves with a great company in Swiftech, IMO.....being socially available here and/or elsewhere should do wonders for increasing visibility of your own product versions


----------



## bloodysummer

Does the H220x comes with a more powerful pump than the H320/H220? What are the other differnce besides from new res and pump location?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

What's the lowest pump speed you can run the pumps for the H220 at? Being I have the fans hooked up to the splitter along with the pump on the PWM header on my motherboard. The fans tend to run a little loud. So I want to set it up so my pump and fans go faster when my computer is actually under load. Just want to know the safest lowest speed for the pump.

Thanks,
Brian


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> What's the lowest pump speed you can run the pumps for the H220 at? Being I have the fans hooked up to the splitter along with the pump on the PWM header on my motherboard. The fans tend to run a little loud. So I want to set it up so my pump and fans go faster when my computer is actually under load. Just want to know the safest lowest speed for the pump.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian


Think its like 1300rpm but you can find it on their site. Its pwm so it will not run at a lower speed than designed.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Think its like 1300rpm but you can find it on their site. Its pwm so it will not run at a lower speed than designed.


Just checked their site. Says 1200 RPM.


----------



## bloodysummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> What's the lowest pump speed you can run the pumps for the H220 at? Being I have the fans hooked up to the splitter along with the pump on the PWM header on my motherboard. The fans tend to run a little loud. So I want to set it up so my pump and fans go faster when my computer is actually under load. Just want to know the safest lowest speed for the pump.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian


How can you control the pump anyway?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> How can you control the pump anyway?


PWM %. %0 = 1200 RPM on the H220.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> How can you control the pump anyway?


Through your bios, idk about other motherboards but on mine. It's under "PC Health Status". Lets me choose fan percentage in correlation to temps.


----------



## bloodysummer

Thank you guys! So it goes with the same speed as the fans?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodysummer*
> 
> Thank you guys! So it goes with the same speed as the fans?


I don't think the fans run at the same speed since they have varying speed range compared to the pump. On my motherboard it tells the speed of the pump. I'm assuming because it's connected to the red slot on the splitter. Even though you set a percentage in the bios, both the pump and fans will being running at the same percentage but doesn't mean they're running at the same RPM. If that makes any sense.










EDIT: For example,
The pump has range of 1200-3000 RPM
The fans, 800 +/- 25% RPM to 1800 +/- 10% RPM

So, like Phelan above said, at 0% the pump will run at 1200 RPM and the fans at 800 RPM (+/- 25%).
100% the pump at 3000 RPM, the fans at 1800 RPM (+/- 10%). So on and so on for percentages in between.

Someone please feel free to voice your input if I'm completely wrong in what I just said.


----------



## M3TAl

Swiftech did design the pump so it shouldn't be audible (or at least create about same amount of noise as the fans) over the fans at the same PWM %.


----------



## Mega Man

@BramSLI1

can we please get some good pics of the block ( the new 290x komodo ) specifically the insides !~ the OEM pics stink ( no offense ) i wanna see some profile pics !~


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> can we please get some good pics of the block ( the new 290x komodo ) specifically the insides !~ the OEM pics stink ( no offense ) i wanna see some profile pics !~


I'll talk with Gabe about that on Monday and see if that's possible.


----------



## Scorpion49

I'm pretty sure my H220 pump just died, I used it for about a month back in December and then put it back in the box. I just took it back out to mount on a new AMD build and within about 10 minutes the system shut down while installing windows. I gave it a whiff to see if magic smoke came out (FX 9590 takes a lot of juice) and found that it smelled like awful burnt coolant. I pulled the H220 and plugged it in to another machine and there is no noise/vibrations from the pump at all so I think its gone kaput.

Can I check the rotor or anything to make sure it isn't broken?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm pretty sure my H220 pump just died, I used it for about a month back in December and then put it back in the box. I just took it back out to mount on a new AMD build and within about 10 minutes the system shut down while installing windows. I gave it a whiff to see if magic smoke came out (FX 9590 takes a lot of juice) and found that it smelled like awful burnt coolant. I pulled the H220 and plugged it in to another machine and there is no noise/vibrations from the pump at all so I think its gone kaput.
> 
> Can I check the rotor or anything to make sure it isn't broken?


I'm sorry to hear about that. Send me a PM and I'll help you resolve this.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Hey everyone, i've just run into an issue with my coolermaster glacer 240l. I can't seem to control the pump via PWM. Whichever PWM setting i set it to, it stays at 3500RPM. Any ideas?

EDIT: I fixed it. Due to the false advertising on my cheapo motherboard, i realized that the SYS_FAN header is controlled by voltage, and the CPU_FAN header is controlled by PWM.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Im in the market for a new cooler.
I want to get the H220
but I heard the H220x is out ? and saw the pics loooove the look !
how do i get one here in singapore ?


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Im in the market for a new cooler.
> I want to get the H220
> but I heard the H220x is out ? and saw the pics loooove the look !
> how do i get one here in singapore ?


Hiya! A few pages back, it was announced that the H220X was delayed to release in the last week or two of May. So it's still a couple weeks from release yet.

How long it takes after THAT to become available in Singapore, will depend on the retailers available to you and how soon they pick the product up.

That's how i understand it at least!


----------



## NUKESHOCK

OH dang I hope so , I gave my brother my H220 and im back to using my kraken x40 , which is making a horrid pump noise and I think it is going to die, I Under clocked my CPU to 3.0 GHZ for it ...
Was planning on getting a new cooler this 12 may , maybe a week or three after that I can get it to run ?
Dang I really want the H220x it looks SSSSOOOOOOOOO AWESOME , Practically a Custom loop at a budget price !!!! , AND WITH A NICE RES WITH GREEN LIQUID ! WOULD GO SO AWESOME WITH MY BLUE LED AND UV GREEN COLOR SCHEME


----------



## bloodysummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> OH dang I hope so , I gave my brother my H220 and im back to using my kraken x40 , which is making a horrid pump noise and I think it is going to die, I Under clocked my CPU to 3.0 GHZ for it ...
> Was planning on getting a new cooler this 12 may , maybe a week or three after that I can get it to run ?
> Dang I really want the H220x it looks SSSSOOOOOOOOO AWESOME , Practically a Custom loop at a budget price !!!! , AND WITH A NICE RES WITH GREEN LIQUID ! WOULD GO SO AWESOME WITH MY BLUE LED AND UV GREEN COLOR SCHEME


Same here, cant wait till it'll be available here in Philippines


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Oh boy... I hear some people are having trouble with their H220 pumps ? On the swiftech facebook page.
like one guy is saying that swiftech is not honoring the warranty for his H220 cuz they said he ran it wrongly , when he always had it a 12v at 3000rpm or smth like that.
I hope this is not the case as I was considering getting the H220 again for my CPU and then Getting the H220x later on and use the H220 on my GPU...
but looks like the H220 is a crap shoot when it comes to products ? Like razers Deathadders 2013 some users got horrid mice while others got a very well made reliable mouse...
I really want to get the H220x and the H220 again , can swiftech kindly explain to me ?
Cuz like warranty is everything to me, and I place my confidence in a company that honours it well or graciously.
I have had to deal with horrid companies on replacing RMAed items , like XFX which was a pain in the ass and so was NZXT ...

I'm not here to add any negativity, I actually really really want to get the H220x its the most awesome looking All in one liquid cooler I have ever seen.
but like any normal consumer I need to be assured that this will not happen.
Cuz now im afraid to get another H220 and maybe I will take it back from my brother and buy him a normal corsair liquid cooler :/


----------



## Mega Man

people like to whine, but swiftech honors it warranty better then anyone. i am sure if they denied the warranty it was for good reason


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I have nothing but good things to say about Swiftech's warranty and customer service. Not only did they replace my pump/cpu block fast and easy. They paid shipping both ways. Never had a company do that. I always end up having to pay to ship it back.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Ah Ok thats good, Fell more confident in them now ,


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Ah Ok thats good, Fell more confident in them now ,


I haven't seen the Facebook post that you're talking about, but I think I know why the warranty might have been denied. The pumps in these kits are PWM controlled. Therefore they require a constant supply of power. Using voltage control to regulate the speed of these pumps varies the voltage in order to accomplish this.

Like any PWM device this isn't recommended. As the user you need to also be aware that some motherboard manufacturers give misleading information about their headers. There is a perfect example of that just a few posts back.

Using voltage control on these pumps can cause them to fail prematurely and it also voids the warranty because that's not what these pumps were designed for.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

AH yes < well i was looking at the post people made on the facebook page these two comments made me feel a little less confident about getting the H220 and the h220x



It was these two comments :/


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Reason Im so anal about this , is because it happened with razer and my death adder I was unlucky and got the "bad versions" twice and didnt have a proper mouse for almost 2 weeks waiting on the return for them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH yes < well i was looking at the post people made on the facebook page these two comments made me feel a little less confident about getting the H220 and the h220x
> 
> 
> 
> It was these two comments :/


OK, the one on the top was from a person that wasn't aware that when any of our Laing pumps are taken apart to be used in an aftermarket reservoir or pump top, this voids our warranty because we have no control over the quality of that aftermarket part. We've had issues with these aftermarket parts not sealing properly or even been machined improperly and this leads to either leaks or the pump failing prematurely. This is why we have this policy. We also don't have any control over what our resellers do with our pumps once they purchase them from us for resale.

The guy on the bottom though, I did take care of him and replaced his kit. I remember him quite well because like he stated he didn't use voltage to control the speed of the pump. Since it ran at full speed the whole time this wouldn't be an issue and we did replace it for him.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

AH ! OK ! I get it now !
SO erm Ok the pump on the H220 is a PWM design , and it was meant to run at full speed all the time ? My system is on 24/7
Using a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING
So I connect the h220 to one of the 4 pin fan connectors on my Mobo ? and also to my PSU ? But it it connected to the PSU it will run constant at its max right if i dont plug it into the Mobo ? like the PSU will constantly provide 12 volts at max right ?
cuz what I did was plug the pump and fans into my Mobo fan headers. I didnt use the splitter , cuz i wanted to monitor the speeds, idont have the H220 with me now so i cant check , but can I still control the pump speed ( main priority I run Noctua NF-P14s PWMs from my Motherboard headers ) so that I can observe their speeds, does the PWM splitter have like a USB connection or something for me to monitor and increase decrease the pump speed , ( if at max speed I cant hear it then i will run it as max speed 24/7 )


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH ! OK ! I get it now !
> SO erm Ok the pump on the H220 is a PWM design , and it was meant to run at full speed all the time ? My system is on 24/7
> Using a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING
> So I connect the h220 to one of the 4 pin fan connectors on my Mobo ? and also to my PSU ? But it it connected to the PSU it will run constant at its max right if i dont plug it into the Mobo ? like the PSU will constantly provide 12 volts at max right ?
> cuz what I did was plug the pump and fans into my Mobo fan headers. I didnt use the splitter , cuz i wanted to monitor the speeds, idont have the H220 with me now so i cant check , but can I still control the pump speed ( main priority I run Noctua NF-P14s PWMs from my Motherboard headers ) so that I can observe their speeds, does the PWM splitter have like a USB connection or something for me to monitor and increase decrease the pump speed , ( if at max speed I cant hear it then i will run it as max speed 24/7 )


OK, let me explain this a little better. This is a PWM pump, so you can use PWM control to adjust its speed. Using voltage to adjust its speed is not advisable, but if you used voltage and just left it at full speed, that would be fine. We also recommend that if you connect the pump directly to your motherboard that you use the CPU fan header to do so. On most motherboards that's the only one that's guaranteed to use PWM control. The others might have four pins, but that doesn't guarantee that they are PWM headers. I hope this clarifies things for you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH yes < well i was looking at the post people made on the facebook page these two comments made me feel a little less confident about getting the H220 and the h220x
> 
> 
> 
> It was these two comments :/


I love that first post. " I did not know biting a modes item needn't is warranty was void " I would love to see him buy a painted rad and yeti to get a warranty. This is standard for 99% of anything you buy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH ! OK ! I get it now !
> SO erm Ok the pump on the H220 is a PWM design , and it was meant to run at full speed all the time ? My system is on 24/7
> Using a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING
> So I connect the h220 to one of the 4 pin fan connectors on my Mobo ? and also to my PSU ? But it it connected to the PSU it will run constant at its max right if i dont plug it into the Mobo ? like the PSU will constantly provide 12 volts at max right ?
> cuz what I did was plug the pump and fans into my Mobo fan headers. I didnt use the splitter , cuz i wanted to monitor the speeds, idont have the H220 with me now so i cant check , but can I still control the pump speed ( main priority I run Noctua NF-P14s PWMs from my Motherboard headers ) so that I can observe their speeds, does the PWM splitter have like a USB connection or something for me to monitor and increase decrease the pump speed , ( if at max speed I cant hear it then i will run it as max speed 24/7 )
> 
> 
> 
> OK, let me explain this a little better. This is PWM pump, so you can use PWM control to adjust its speed. Using voltage to adjust its speed is not advisable, but if you used voltage and just left it at full speed, that would be fine. We also recommend that if you connect the pump directly to your motherboard that you use the CPU fan header to do so. On most motherboards that's the only one that's guaranteed to use PWM control. The others might have four pins, but that doesn't guarantee that they are PWM headers. I hope this clarifies things for you.
Click to expand...

or just use the own splitter that is included


----------



## Dudewitbow

the h220X has a slight delay due to tweaking the pcb for the pumps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH ! OK ! I get it now !
> SO erm Ok the pump on the H220 is a PWM design , and it was meant to run at full speed all the time ? My system is on 24/7
> Using a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING
> So I connect the h220 to one of the 4 pin fan connectors on my Mobo ? and also to my PSU ? But it it connected to the PSU it will run constant at its max right if i dont plug it into the Mobo ? like the PSU will constantly provide 12 volts at max right ?
> cuz what I did was plug the pump and fans into my Mobo fan headers. I didnt use the splitter , cuz i wanted to monitor the speeds, idont have the H220 with me now so i cant check , but can I still control the pump speed ( main priority I run Noctua NF-P14s PWMs from my Motherboard headers ) so that I can observe their speeds, does the PWM splitter have like a USB connection or something for me to monitor and increase decrease the pump speed , ( if at max speed I cant hear it then i will run it as max speed 24/7 )


How the H220 works is like:

-Pump and included fans are PWM device
-The 8 way H220 splitter does report RPM, but only the RPM connected to the main PWM slot, which is the slot covered by the red cap. All other devices connected to the splitter go at the same PWM % as the main one.
-If the splitter is plugged in, and you cannot control the RPM of the device in the red cap spot, then the header is voltage controlled, as the splitter gets its power from the SATA connector directly from the PSU and only uses a 4 pin connector to read PWM(PWM are like signals compared to Voltage which changes the volts)

using fact 3 can confirm if SYSFAN1 and SYSFAN2 are indeed real PWM slots or not. if one of them happens to be real PWM, then its possible to have the H220 pump connected to the CPUFAN and the splitter connected to the other real PWM SYSFAN to power up the fans. CPUFAN will report its own pump speed which you can control, and the splitter will report whats connected to the red header and can be controlled(if you use the same fans, they will spin at the same RPM ±▲100rpm)

regardless, for safe practice, always connect the H220 Pump to the CPUFAN header. use fact 3 to confirm if any other 4 pin headers are either voltage or PWM controlled


----------



## Mega Man

i never recommend connecting higher amp draw to mobo.... bad idea


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Hmm OK.
Now I have to decide.... The kraken x40 just crapped out on me... Now I have no cooler...
I get paid on the 12th so no choice but to wait till this Monday to get a cooler... Found a H220 reseller here in Singapore $208SGD = $166 USD( is this price right? Cuz a glacier 240 is around $270 sgd = $216 USD)
I got a about $240 to spare sooo, I will be removing the stock Tubbing and replacing it with some clear or UV green Tubbing.
Will get clear if the Hydrx coolant used in the H220 is UV reactive since my rig is UV green schemed
I have some old Feser One UV yellow coolant which looks green under Uv lightfor some reason...
Can I mix that with the Hydrx if the Hydrx is also UV reactive? (mix feser One with hydrx)
And will my warranty be void if I change the tubing?
Also.
Will swiftech be brining the apogee CPU waterblocks into Singapore?
Is the Apogee waterblock out yet?
Can I add the Apogee waterblock to the H220? And use the H220 waterblockpump purely as a pump?

OK so main questions is
Is
1)the H220 in my country over priced?
2)Will replacing the tubing on the H220 void the warranty.
3)is the Hydrx coolant used UV reactive.
4) Can I mix it with the Feser One UV coolant
5) can I add a in the future swiftechs Apogee CPU water block to the loop and use the H220 waterblockpump purely as a pump.
Or can I get the waterblock and a separate pump without the need of a res.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Sorry and one more thing
Cm I replace the H220 Waterblock/pump with the apogee XL and a MCP50x pump? Without having to get a res?
And say
I get the Waterblock first and use the H220 Waterblockpump with using the Apogee XL on my CPU increase the cooling performance?


----------



## Mega Man

it sounds to me like you need to just buy either h220x or a full custom loop as you are already doing this


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it sounds to me like you need to just buy either h220x or a full custom loop as you are already doing this


well
Problem is I can't afford a custom loop for now, since a Waterblock here is about $150 a rad is $100 tubing is $20 a pump is $100 and a decent res is about $120
Thats $490
Compared to spending $200 for the H220 and $120 for the apogee XL and a pump
Plus I can get a kraken G10 and mount the H220 to one of my GPUs


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> well
> Problem is I can't afford a custom loop for now, since a Waterblock here is about $150 a rad is $100 tubing is $20 a pump is $100 and a decent res is about $120
> Thats $490
> Compared to spending $200 for the H220 and $120 for the apogee XL and a pump
> Plus I can get a kraken G10 and mount the H220 to one of my GPUs


the g10 mount does not work with the H220, the g10 mount was designed for asetek based round cpu coolers. Only way i can think of mounting a h220 onto a gpu would be using richie_2010's gpu cool mount after removing the top honeycomb cap off the block and some really long screws(so that the top is flat and not convex) and even then im not even sure if it would work or not


----------



## Someone09

Just a quick question: Does anyone know why the H320 isn´t really available in most parts of Europe right now (especially Germany)?


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Ah , OK but still its cheaper then a Full custom loop :/
And that Apogee XL looks simply amazing.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

I think Im gonna wait for the H220x but I hope it comes out soon ! Or else Im really gonna have to start a custom loop ....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Just a quick question: Does anyone know why the H320 isn´t really available in most parts of Europe right now (especially Germany)?


The reason for this is that our factory has been busy producing our new products, so they haven't been able to maintain stock of a couple of items. The H320 is one of them, but they should be available again soon in the European market now that our factory is starting to produce them again.


----------



## Someone09

Thanks for the info.

Is there an approximate timeframe when it will be available again?
I mean...are we talking a few weeks or over 2 months?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Is there an approximate timeframe when it will be available again?
> I mean...are we talking a few weeks or over 2 months?


At this point I'd say they should be available again in the next 2 to 3 weeks.


----------



## Someone09

Alright.
Thank you.


----------



## Mega Man

because this has seemed to become a " swiftech thread " more then a h220 thread, i ordered 4x 290x komodos which will be here asap ( waiting for PPCs to get them and ship them ! ) then i will have an extra ek block ( from powercolor ) which i may have to buy a 290 for ! ( me thinking me wifes build, then ill use my 7970 in my htpc, should be way overkill any way ! )

i did forget to buy the new block ( cpu ) however, which may be done when they get the 480 monstas in stock that i am waiting for to purchase idk yet


----------



## grunion

Received my replacement Glacer today, took it out of the bubble wrap and was greeted to this...
Is it ok to bend the fins into position or should I request another RMA?



>EDIT I submitted a request and provided the image in the ticket.
However when I try and log into the ticket portal to verify it was sent, my password is declined.

I can however log into my Cooler Master account just fine using the same username/pw.

??????


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Received my replacement Glacer today, took it out of the bubble wrap and was greeted to this...
> Is it ok to bend the fins into position or should I request another RMA?
> 
> 
> 
> >EDIT I submitted a request and provided the image in the ticket.
> However when I try and log into the ticket portal to verify it was sent, my password is declined.
> 
> I can however log into my Cooler Master account just fine using the same username/pw.
> 
> ??????


I'm sorry that you had this issue with your replacement. However, it should be fairly easy to bend those fins back into place. Try using a small flathead screw driver. These fins are very thin to allow for optimal airflow and thus they do bend easily.


----------



## Radmanhs

Is it possible to attach compression fittings to the pump and rad?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> to the pump and rad?


H220/ H320/ Glacer 240L = No.









H220X propably yes, but BramSLI1 can answer that for youcells...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Is it possible to attach compression fittings to the pump and rad?


For the H220X this can be done because it will use standard G 1/4 ports. The swivel barbs on the H220 and H320 are not removable.


----------



## jam71

Hi, I'm 'to sort the H220, I have read about 300 pages of this thread and then I jumped to the last where we talk about the 220x, only with respect to the H220 is completely different and it's not even that uscito.Penso be ordering 'the H220, however, I have read very well this cooler and I also really like the aesthetics, tempop ago I heard that there were products with the pump Faulty, they then resolved? I go quiet? I buy?

P.S. sorry for my english, I'm forced to use a translator to write


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hi, I'm 'to sort the H220, I have read about 300 pages of this thread and then I jumped to the last where we talk about the 220x, only with respect to the H220 is completely different and it's not even that uscito.Penso be ordering 'the H220, however, I have read very well this cooler and I also really like the aesthetics, tempop ago I heard that there were products with the pump Faulty, they then resolved? I go quiet? I buy?
> 
> P.S. sorry for my english, I'm forced to use a translator to write


Seems some people still get failures, I have had mine for 5 months now with no issues and its cooling my gpu as well. The good thing is that swiftech is handling the failures with excellent customer service. The h220x is very different, and will be slightly better but the h220 does an excellent job, better than any other all in one cooler. Its practically their apogee drive ii cooler at a cheaper price (different pump but same copper plate). At low speeds its very quiet but like anything, high speeds is audible. If you have extra money to spend, look at the apogee drive ii that swiftech makes.

Good luck choosing.


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Seems some people still get failures, I have had mine for 5 months now with no issues and its cooling my gpu as well. The good thing is that swiftech is handling the failures with excellent customer service. The h220x is very different, and will be slightly better but the h220 does an excellent job, better than any other all in one cooler. Its practically their apogee drive ii cooler at a cheaper price (different pump but same copper plate). At low speeds its very quiet but like anything, high speeds is audible. If you have extra money to spend, look at the apogee drive ii that swiftech makes.
> 
> Good luck choosing.


Thanks for the reply, I saw that the service is excellent and it is not a small thing, the h220x is too different from the H220 is not a practically H220 improved but it is different and who knows 'how much it will cost', however it is decided now I order the H220 then return here to ask other things, thanks for now


----------



## Mega Man

Same cost as the h220 retailed around 150usd. They already confirmed this


----------



## bukojuice

Got my h320 replaced with a new(the old was faulty-No power)..

Time to modify...


----------



## PoWn3d_0704

Have we figured out when the 220X is dropping? I remember following it when it was announced, and it just popped in my head again and I'm disappointed that it hasn't been released yet.

H220x, to the CPU water block, to a 120mm rad, to a GPU, and back to the top radiator is doable, right? I don't have any room in my case for a stand alone pump, really, with my 8 HDDs and 3 SSDs.


----------



## bukojuice

Almost done..time.to bleed...


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoWn3d_0704*
> 
> Have we figured out when the 220X is dropping? I remember following it when it was announced, and it just popped in my head again and I'm disappointed that it hasn't been released yet.
> 
> H220x, to the CPU water block, to a 120mm rad, to a GPU, and back to the top radiator is doable, right? I don't have any room in my case for a stand alone pump, really, with my 8 HDDs and 3 SSDs.


End of the month looks like.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> 
> 
> Almost done..time.to bleed...


WOW NICE !
Hey may i ask did you attack that Res directly to the rad ?

SO your not going to use an back exhaust fan ?
Cool IDEA ! I wanted to get a Tvirus Res for the H220 but was unsure where to put it in the case !


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Hey to the swiftech bro who is helping us out, Can I add Another 240 Rad to the H220 loop ?

Looks like my case can support two 240mm rads , One at the top and one behind the hardrive cages and next to the GPUs, I am running a 7970 crossfire Noth dispel hot air into the case.
WIll as adding the second 240mm rad to the loop at the Hardrive cages improve the cooling significantly ? So it will be 2 240 rad cooling the CPU ? OR Has like the Waterblock on it reached its max heat disipation and adding another Rad wont matter ? Cuz In singapore here 80c on load is considered good....
and my 3770k is OCed to 4.5ghz on the X40 it was 88c max on 100% load...
So im not sure what to do I want to optimize the cooling as much as possible and I got a Guy who wants to sell his 240 rad for $70 SGD which is like 60 USD which is a steal, so will it help ?


----------



## ChromeD2

Hello everybody!

Just got me the H220 and I mounted it temporarily on an Asrock 970 Extreme4 while I wait for a better motherboard for my FX 8350. Works great though the VRM section isn't enough to run this as it deserves.

I've seen many posts here and on other forums regarding the Crosshair V Formula-Z (which I has hoping to get) and compatibility issues. I have 4x4GB RAM sticks.. and I can't find any conclusive answer as to if I'll be able to use all four of them with this cooler+motherboard setup.
I really wanted to go for the best possible motherboard for this CPU, but if I can't fit my existing ram and h220 I might just have to find something else..

Any helpful info / pics you guys could direct me to?
In case it's just not possible, is there any highest-end AM3+ motherboard for OC'ing an 8350 that would allow for this setup?

Cheers!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Hey to the swiftech bro who is helping us out, Can I add Another 240 Rad to the H220 loop ?
> 
> Looks like my case can support two 240mm rads , One at the top and one behind the hardrive cages and next to the GPUs, I am running a 7970 crossfire Noth dispel hot air into the case.
> WIll as adding the second 240mm rad to the loop at the Hardrive cages improve the cooling significantly ? So it will be 2 240 rad cooling the CPU ? OR Has like the Waterblock on it reached its max heat disipation and adding another Rad wont matter ? Cuz In singapore here 80c on load is considered good....
> and my 3770k is OCed to 4.5ghz on the X40 it was 88c max on 100% load...
> So im not sure what to do I want to optimize the cooling as much as possible and I got a Guy who wants to sell his 240 rad for $70 SGD which is like 60 USD which is a steal, so will it help ?


Yes, this kit was designed to be expanded. You can use the video that we did that shows how to add your GPU to the loop for adding another radiator. It's a very similar process.


----------



## MadGoat

Tried out some new fans:

Scythe Grand Flex 120mm 2400rpm PWM





3c difference over the swiftech fans with the same fan profile and no noise difference.

I had a Excalibur fan running exhaust up top (the fan mounting the res) and that bad boy would scream! These fans push MUCH more air and are dead silent compared to that Excalibur fan.

These fans have GREAT "pulling" capabilities. At full tilt PWM (3k pump and 2.4k fans) there is a 6c temp difference comparatively.

There is more cooling left in the included rad with more air flow. The way my Rad sits in my RV02 with the bottom 180mm pushing into the rad and the 120mm pulling on top f the rad makes for a nice setup.


----------



## elHOMBREdelSACO

@ChromeD2, you won't be able to use the first slot for the RAMs


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elHOMBREdelSACO*
> 
> 
> 
> @ChromeD2, you won't be able to use the first slot for the RAMs


Thanks for the pictures!

Well.. that's not quite acceptable for me, I'll have to figure out if there's any alternative for an 8350 motherboard-wise that will still clock nicely. My old and rather low-end asrock 970 extreme4 has no clearance issues on ram or anything else.. but it's just not good enough for this CPU.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, this kit was designed to be expanded. You can use the video that we did that shows how to add your GPU to the loop for adding another radiator. It's a very similar process.


AH yes I know , but will an extra Rad increase the performance of the cooling significantly ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

couldnt you just mount the h220 on the crosshair Formula-Z vertically oriented instead of horizontal. it looks like it has a decent amount of room in that orientation. looking it up user os2wiz uses a h320 along with his Crosshair Formula-Z


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> couldnt you just mount the h220 on the crosshair Formula-Z vertically oriented instead of horizontal. it looks like it has a decent amount of room in that orientation. looking it up user os2wiz uses a h320 along with his Crosshair Formula-Z


I was thinking about that, actually! If it doesn't have any impact on cooling efficiency / pump lifetime / etc.. I'll give it a shot. Ideally I'd like to hear from some Crosshair Formula-Z + H220/H320 (same waterblock + pump iirc) owners to see if anyone has it installed with 4 sticks of RAM. This forum has been a life saver quite a few times in these weirdly specific questions so far, so I'm sticking with it!


----------



## Roxxas049

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> I was thinking about that, actually! If it doesn't have any impact on cooling efficiency / pump lifetime / etc.. I'll give it a shot. Ideally I'd like to hear from some Crosshair Formula-Z + H220/H320 (same waterblock + pump iirc) owners to see if anyone has it installed with 4 sticks of RAM. This forum has been a life saver quite a few times in these weirdly specific questions so far, so I'm sticking with it!


I've mounted mine vertically for the same reason, putting the "in" port at the top, no problems at all.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH yes I know , but will an extra Rad increase the performance of the cooling significantly ?


There are quite a few variables that will determine just how much of an improvement you'll see when adding another radiator. Some of these are what fans you're going to use and what speed you're going to run them at. What configuration those fans will be placed in will also determine the amount of performance increase that you'll get. Your ambient temperature and how good the airflow is in your case will also be a variable. There just isn't a straight answer for this.


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> AH yes I know , but will an extra Rad increase the performance of the cooling significantly ?


Depends on how much heat you are producing. If your only cooling the cpu, IMHO it's pointless to add another rad, since it will do little to nothing in terms of improving your cooling, this is of course taking into account that you at least have decent fans mounted on the rad running at a respectable rate and good overall air flow in your case.

Let me ask you, what components in your pc do you plan to cool with the H220?


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> I've mounted mine vertically for the same reason, putting the "in" port at the top, no problems at all.


If there's no issue to this performance/pump health-wise that's great news! (not sure the pump and waterblock are supposed to be in any specific orientation or not.. this is my first watercooling adventure).
I'll keep an eye out in case anyone has anything against mounting it "sideways".. if not I'll be ordering the motherboard in the last week of the month and will report back after installing.


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Depends on how much heat you are producing. If your only cooling the cpu, IMHO it's pointless to add another rad, since it will do little to nothing in terms of improving your cooling, this is of course taking into account that you at least have decent fans mounted on the rad running at a respectable rate and good overall air flow in your case.
> 
> Let me ask you, what components in your pc do you plan to cool with the H220?


Only cooling the CPU , Since now even on an AIO im getting Temps up to 92c overclocked.
Ambient temps arnt so good over here and I will be using the Stock swiftech fans on the main rad and two Notcua Nf-P12s on the secondary rad


----------



## NUKESHOCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There are quite a few variables that will determine just how much of an improvement you'll see when adding another radiator. Some of these are what fans you're going to use and what speed you're going to run them at. What configuration those fans will be placed in will also determine the amount of performance increase that you'll get. Your ambient temperature and how good the airflow is in your case will also be a variable. There just isn't a straight answer for this.


Will only be cooling the CPU the New rad will be next to the back of two GPUs but the fans cooling the rad will be given alot of air to suck in and push through the rad an into the GPU area , since there are two intake fans on the front of the case and will be using Noctua NF-P12s PWM on the Secondary rad and will be using swiftechs own Stock fans on the original Rad.

normal Temps on an AIO NZXT Kraken x40 is 92c on max load after 1 hour 30 mins...
No throttling but the temp disturbs me alot.

the Stock radiator will be on the TOP of the case as an exhausts as well and the fan will be in a pull config and the other rad the fans will be in a push config pushing cool air through the rad and into the GPUs and the Stock Rad will hav air pulled through it and out the Case.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Hello everybody!
> 
> Just got me the H220 and I mounted it temporarily on an Asrock 970 Extreme4 while I wait for a better motherboard for my FX 8350. Works great though the VRM section isn't enough to run this as it deserves.
> 
> I've seen many posts here and on other forums regarding the Crosshair V Formula-Z (which I has hoping to get) and compatibility issues. I have 4x4GB RAM sticks.. and I can't find any conclusive answer as to if I'll be able to use all four of them with this cooler+motherboard setup.
> I really wanted to go for the best possible motherboard for this CPU, but if I can't fit my existing ram and h220 I might just have to find something else..
> 
> Any helpful info / pics you guys could direct me to?
> In case it's just not possible, is there any highest-end AM3+ motherboard for OC'ing an 8350 that would allow for this setup?
> 
> Cheers!


No issues no modding




Just mounted the and brackets on opposite


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No issues no modding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just mounted the and brackets on opposite


You're a star!

Completely at ease to upgrade to the CHFV-Z now!

Many thanks!


----------



## bukojuice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> WOW NICE !
> Hey may i ask did you attack that Res directly to the rad ?
> 
> SO your not going to use an back exhaust fan ?
> Cool IDEA ! I wanted to get a Tvirus Res for the H220 but was unsure where to put it in the case !


Thanks, Ive used a small tube.like 3 inch..

ive might still use the Rear Fan.and will modify a bracket..will be using a Scythe slime fan.


----------



## bukojuice

Up and Running..the pump was so strong..i just love it.. thanks Bryan for all the help..


----------



## zila

My H220 pump won't mount sideways. The mounting screw goes right up against the right side swivel barb. What did you do to make it work?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No issues no modding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just mounted the and brackets on opposite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're a star!
> 
> Completely at ease to upgrade to the CHFV-Z now!
> 
> Many thanks!
Click to expand...

np again i mounted the amd mounts opposite, meaning, there are four corners to the "x" ( look at the mounting on the h220 pump. )

a b
c d

they are supposed to be mounted on a-c, b-d

i mounted mine on a-b, c-d

to do so. i had to flip them upside down iirc , it did not lock into place, but i have had no issues !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> My H220 pump won't mount sideways. The mounting screw goes right up against the right side swivel barb. What did you do to make it work?


i dont understand the question, sorry :/ if i do rotate it 180 deg


----------



## zila

I attached the brackets from underneath with the screws. Looked good, but then when I tried to drive the mounting screw near the right swivel barb, the screw butts right up against and will damage the barb if I try to turn it. I would have to use a different type of screw to make it work.


----------



## Mega Man

move the swivel upright and it should clear it ( mine did ) i can get pics if needed


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np again i mounted the amd mounts opposite, meaning, there are four corners to the "x" ( look at the mounting on the h220 pump. )
> 
> a b
> c d
> 
> they are supposed to be mounted on a-c, b-d
> 
> i mounted mine on a-b, c-d
> 
> to do so. i had to flip them upside down iirc , it did not lock into place, but i have had no issues !
> i dont understand the question, sorry :/ if i do rotate it 180 deg


Thanks again!

Seems simple enough to do and I figured that would be the way to go about it. I wasn't sure if the pump's orientation would matter due to the internal design (e.g. logo should be facing down on assembly).

I'll be getting the new board late May / early June, and the top contenders have always been the Asus CFV-Z and the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 for me. The extra ROG features (I rather like ROG Connect) and the renowned OC'ing abilities were pushing the CFV-Z ahead.. knowing I can mount the H220 on it and use all the RAM might just seal the deal.


----------



## zila

Mine doesn't, It's worse with the barb in the upward position. The screw eats into the barb.

Edit: it's not a problem at all on the left barb(in) but the right side barb is just smidge higher, just enough for the barb to interfere with the screw.


----------



## Mega Man

hmm idk i use the same screws

are you depressing the screws as they are spring loaded?


----------



## zila

There isn't any room, the screw is right on the barb. If you push it in it bites the barb and there is absolutely no room to turn the screw as like I said it is right on the barb. Now if I use a shorter screw I think it would fit but I can't use a spring with it.


----------



## Mega Man

did you try taking off the bracket and pushing it in, then reinstalling? i dont remember what i did but it was a close fit sorry i did it over a year ago


----------



## zila

I wouldn't want to risk it. I think I would rather use a shorter screw.


----------



## pedmunds

Very late to this party, but had my h220 for about a year and just expanded it. Added a 140mm rad and r9 290 into the loop. Under load my i5 3570k @ 4.2 GHz and moderately overclocked r9 290 are both about 55 degrees. Love this cooler!

Specs:

Switch 810
i5 3570k @ 4.2GHz
msi gaming r9 290 @ 1030MHz
16gb ram
256 Samsung evo SSD
2 Tb HDD


----------



## zeroofmhx

quick question can fit these h220 kit on my arc mini r2? probably pusp/pull setup on top


----------



## pedmunds

Looking at the specs of your case (http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/arc-series/arc-mini-r2) it almost certainly should fit up top, although you might have to remove your optical drive bay as the hoses stick out a bit and might interfere. Push-pull fans might interfere with heatsinks on your mobo so I wouldn't recommend on your case. If it's a CPU only loop push-pull would only lower temps by at most a couple of degrees so I'd stick to either push or pull.


----------



## jawajawa

Had this since day one, just getting around to posting it now. Thanks Swiftech, works perfectly.



http://imgur.com/HNEhgDq


Got a quick question about this, might've seen it mentioned before but I just want to double check.
So I have this sound of water trickling and I had contacted Swiftech about it long ago but I can't find the emails anymore but I think I remember what they said to do. They said it might've had something to do with how I have my pump and/or radiator mounted.
I'm pretty certain I have the radiator mounted upside down because of clearance issues with the VRM and RAM but it's been so long that I can't even remember if that was the reason, my picture should answer that question though, so I was wondering if this has anything to do with it.
Another possibility is that I have the pump mounted upside down, but once again I can't remember exactly what the reason for this is but I imagine it has to do with the routing/clearance/orientation of the hosing, so I was also wondering if this has anything to do with it.
Another possibility is that some of the water/liquid in the loop has evaporated out of the system over time. I could top it off/refill it and see if that helps, but for some reason I remember this being a difficult thing to do because of how I have the pump and/or radiator mounted but I can't remember for sure. Also I think I recall being told that just plain old distilled water is fine for refilling but I want to double check on this too.

Just some background info: I've had the system since the week or month of release and it's been running nearly 24/7 on the rig in my sig. I know for a fact that for the first 6 months or so I never heard a thing out of it. It was only after about 6 months or so that it started doing this and it's persisted until this day, I feel like the trickling has gotten more violent/louder because it makes less of a trickling sound and more of a "air rushing through a garden hose" sound where it sounds like there's more air flowing through the system/pump. But the weird thing is, at least from what I can tell, my temps haven't changed one bit, I would think that they would increase a significant amount because of the air bubbles but it doesn't seem like this is the case. I've seen other true closed loop systems develop air bubbles in the systems/pumps and they were completely ineffective at dissipating heat from there on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.









Video Notes: I recorded the video on my phone but the audio was captured from an external microphone plugged into my computer (you can see the microphone hanging in the video).


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jawajawa*
> 
> Had this since day one, just getting around to posting it now. Thanks Swiftech, works perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HNEhgDq
> 
> 
> Got a quick question about this, might've seen it mentioned before but I just want to double check.
> So I have this sound of water trickling and I had contacted Swiftech about it long ago but I can't find the emails anymore but I think I remember what they said to do. They said it might've had something to do with how I have my pump and/or radiator mounted.
> I'm pretty certain I have the radiator mounted upside down because of clearance issues with the VRM and RAM but it's been so long that I can't even remember if that was the reason, my picture should answer that question though, so I was wondering if this has anything to do with it.
> Another possibility is that I have the pump mounted upside down, but once again I can't remember exactly what the reason for this is but I imagine it has to do with the routing/clearance/orientation of the hosing, so I was also wondering if this has anything to do with it.
> Another possibility is that some of the water/liquid in the loop has evaporated out of the system over time. I could top it off/refill it and see if that helps, but for some reason I remember this being a difficult thing to do because of how I have the pump and/or radiator mounted but I can't remember for sure. Also I think I recall being told that just plain old distilled water is fine for refilling but I want to double check on this too.
> 
> Just some background info: I've had the system since the week or month of release and it's been running nearly 24/7 on the rig in my sig. I know for a fact that for the first 6 months or so I never heard a thing out of it. It was only after about 6 months or so that it started doing this and it's persisted until this day, I feel like the trickling has gotten more violent/louder because it makes less of a trickling sound and more of a "air rushing through a garden hose" sound where it sounds like there's more air flowing through the system/pump. But the weird thing is, at least from what I can tell, my temps haven't changed one bit, I would think that they would increase a significant amount because of the air bubbles but it doesn't seem like this is the case. I've seen other true closed loop systems develop air bubbles in the systems/pumps and they were completely ineffective at dissipating heat from there on.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video Notes: I recorded the video on my phone but the audio was captured from an external microphone plugged into my computer (you can see the microphone hanging in the video).


You're fill port is down in the picture, which generally can result in the trickle sound because the air catch isn't very effective without the fill port facing up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You're fill port is down in the picture, which generally can result in the trickle sound because the air catch isn't very effective without the fill port facing up.


This is correct. The fill-port needs to face up so that the reservoir can act as an air trap the way it was designed to. With it facing down there isn't anywhere for air to get trapped and it will result in the noise that you're hearing, or even worse, it could end up in the pump and cause it to seize up.


----------



## icemasta

Hey there! So I've had a Swiftech since around December and I just got a problem. Woke up this morning after I forgot the close the windows for the night and the room temperature was at a low 6 degrees Celsius and ever since then, the pump is making a lot of noise. I made sure the reservoir was topped off and everything, so I was wondering what kind of coolant was used in the pump by default? It's not THAT bad, and when I am playing games and the temperature increases, the noise diminishes quite a bit, just wondered if there was something I could do/if I blew my pump (even though it's working and keeping my CPU at a cool 40 Celsius when playing decent games.)?

EDIT: Using MSI Command Center I've set it to Smart Fan mode, so at least when my computer is inactive it's completely silent, when I am gaming it isn't so bad. Using the software to auto-tune it (Did a stress test on the CPU and set fan % according to temperature hike), the H220 only needs to run at 50% efficiency to keep my system at 60C while running the CPUs at 100%.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemasta*
> 
> Hey there! So I've had a Swiftech since around December and I just got a problem. Woke up this morning after I forgot the close the windows for the night and the room temperature was at a low 6 degrees Celsius and ever since then, the pump is making a lot of noise. I made sure the reservoir was topped off and everything, so I was wondering what kind of coolant was used in the pump by default? It's not THAT bad, and when I am playing games and the temperature increases, the noise diminishes quite a bit, just wondered if there was something I could do/if I blew my pump (even though it's working and keeping my CPU at a cool 40 Celsius when playing decent games.)?


The coolant that's used in these kits is our own HydrX PM2 coolant. If the noise isn't that bad then the damage to the pump might not be that bad after all. Although, with electrical devices of this kind it could get progressively worse as time goes on. Just keep that in mind. These kits weren't designed to be used in temperatures that are near freezing either. Let me know if this answers your questions.


----------



## icemasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The coolant that's used in these kits is our own HydrX PM2 coolant. If the noise isn't that bad then the damage to the pump might not be that bad after all. Although, with electrical devices of this kind it could get progressively worse as time goes on. Just keep that in mind. These kits weren't designed to be used in temperatures that are near freezing either. Let me know if this answers your questions.


Yeah, lesson learned that's for sure. Looked up your coolant and the freezing point is 6C, so I kinda got lucky and it probably didn't completely freeze. By tuning the pump down the noise is completely gone. What is the RPM when it's running at 100% normally? I can't get above 1815RPM currently, it starts getting noisy around that point too, under that it's completely fine. Hopefully it doesn't fail. To be safe I've set a shutdown trigger at 80C.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemasta*
> 
> Yeah, lesson learned that's for sure. Looked up your coolant and the freezing point is 6C, so I kinda got lucky and it probably didn't completely freeze. By tuning the pump down the noise is completely gone. What is the RPM when it's running at 100% normally? I can't get above 1815RPM currently, it starts getting noisy around that point too, under that it's completely fine. Hopefully it doesn't fail. To be safe I've set a shutdown trigger at 80C.


swiftech 220/320's run at 3000±some at 100% pwm, Coolermaster units run at 3500±some


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> swiftech 220/320's run at 3000±some at 100% pwm, Coolermaster units run at 3500±some


That's correct. If your pump can't get above 1800 RPM or so then it's likely that there's something wrong with it. Also make sure that you have the pump plugged into channel 1 on the splitter and not one of the fans instead. The 1815 RPM that was mentioned previously by icemasta sounds like the maximum speed of our fans.


----------



## jawajawa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> You're fill port is down in the picture, which generally can result in the trickle sound because the air catch isn't very effective without the fill port facing up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is correct. The fill-port needs to face up so that the reservoir can act as an air trap the way it was designed to. With it facing down there isn't anywhere for air to get trapped and it will result in the noise that you're hearing, or even worse, it could end up in the pump and cause it to seize up.


OK, I'll try flipping it later today. I kind of want to top it off while I'm at it but I need to know whether distilled water is OK.

Also, is my pump mounted upside down or no? Or does it not even matter?

Thanks again.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jawajawa*
> 
> OK, I'll try flipping it later today. I kind of want to top it off while I'm at it but I need to know whether distilled water is OK.
> 
> Also, is my pump mounted upside down or no? Or does it not even matter?
> 
> Thanks again.


Distilled water is fine to top off the radiator with and the orientation of the pump doesn't matter. If your logo is the lower in the lower right hand corner though then it's in the stock orientation anyway. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## icemasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jawajawa*
> 
> OK, I'll try flipping it later today. I kind of want to top it off while I'm at it but I need to know whether distilled water is OK.
> 
> Also, is my pump mounted upside down or no? Or does it not even matter?
> 
> Thanks again.


I've found the best way to top it off is using distilled water and a pipette, take out the fan out of the case, personally I get a towel, put the towel on top of the case and the fan on top of it, with the screw up. Open up the reservoir, nudge the reservoir around a bit to see the coolant level, start filling it slowly with the pipette and distilling water. Once it starts looking full, start tilting it so the hole for refilling is at the top, if it's not completely full, you'll slowly see the water tilting at the top, and unless it's full (you'll know when it's on the edge of spilling out, stop there







), the water level should go down and you'll see space forming, so you keep filling it slowly. Eventually, at a high enough angle you'll see that you can't tilt it futher without spilling water, so try filling it slowly, even if it appears full, adding water won't change the coolant, that generally means it's not full. When you're done, put it back level, and start the pump to have it move around, you should see the water level rising very slightly, kink one of the tubes very gently to push out any remaining air bubbles/let it run for a good 30 minutes that way (monitor temp levels of the CPU if you had to unplug the fans ot od this). Let it cool down for a little while, then check at max angle if there is still space freed up from the air bubbles. If not, put the reservoir back on level, add 2-5 drops to really top it off, slowly screw in the cap, use something to absorb the water that will be squeezed out while you're screwing, finish by screwing it tightly and drying the cap completely, let it dry for a good 15 minutes, just in case, and that's how I generally refill the reservoir.


----------



## icemasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. If your pump can't get above 1800 RPM or so then it's likely that there's something wrong with it. Also make sure that you have the pump plugged into channel 1 on the splitter and not one of the fans instead. The 1815 RPM that was mentioned previously by icemasta sounds like the maximum speed of our fans.


Wow completely correct! Just went ahead and redid my splitter wiring, now I can hit a good 3200 RPM, and funnily enough, the sound is a LOT better, but it's still noisy. I starts making noise around 2200 RPM, anything below that is completely silent.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icemasta*
> 
> Wow completely correct! Just went ahead and redid my splitter wiring, now I can hit a good 3200 RPM, and funnily enough, the sound is a LOT better, but it's still noisy. I starts making noise around 2200 RPM, anything below that is completely silent.


Yeah, the troubleshooting and overall customer service from Swiftech is amazing! Or it seems to me from reading this thread.....I don't own one yet LOL.

Still have H220X preordered......and not complaining about the wait, I'm waiting for Devil's Canyon before I build, anyway. Can't wait to get my 220X in my hot little hands, though


----------



## smithydan

It should be worth the wait.


----------



## ChromeD2

Hello again, everybody!

Thanks to the advice of some awesome folk in this thread I ended up purchasing a CVF-Z for my 8350 (with an H220 and 4 RAM sticks to deal with).

To anyone who has ANY doubt on how to do this, I would like to leave the following tips:

1. Mount the AMD brackets from *below* the pump/block, so that you can install it at a 90º rotation from it's usual position. (I believe usually you'd do it from the upper side)
2. Gently tug the swivel barbs (I didn't mod anything or take anything apart, it's exactly as it comes in the box) so the tubes come straight up from the pump/block.
3. Get the 4 screws in the AMD mount, don't forget the springs!
4. Mount it on your motherboard (one of the brackets has to be slid under the VRM heatsink groove.. it's VERY intuitive though and you don't have to force anything!).. and then tug the swivel barbs to your preferred position as with the screws bottomed out things should no longer be in the way.

Currently at 4715MHz and 1.39v, prime95 brings it to 65 core, 59 socket according to HWMonitor, so I'd say everything's working great (no golden chip.. oh well!).

Hope this can help someone who is on the fence about this as I was.. or struggling with it in any way!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Hello again, everybody!
> 
> Thanks to the advice of some awesome folk in this thread I ended up purchasing a CVF-Z for my 8350 (with an H220 and 4 RAM sticks to deal with).
> 
> To anyone who has ANY doubt on how to do this, I would like to leave the following tips:
> 
> 1. Mount the AMD brackets from *below* the pump/block, so that you can install it at a 90º rotation from it's usual position. (I believe usually you'd do it from the upper side)
> 2. Gently tug the swivel barbs (I didn't mod anything or take anything apart, it's exactly as it comes in the box) so the tubes come straight up from the pump/block.
> 3. Get the 4 screws in the AMD mount, don't forget the springs!
> 4. Mount it on your motherboard (one of the brackets has to be slid under the VRM heatsink groove.. it's VERY intuitive though and you don't have to force anything!).. and then tug the swivel barbs to your preferred position as with the screws bottomed out things should no longer be in the way.
> 
> Currently at 4715MHz and 1.39v, prime95 brings it to 65 core, 59 socket according to HWMonitor, so I'd say everything's working great (no golden chip.. oh well!).
> 
> Hope this can help someone who is on the fence about this as I was.. or struggling with it in any way!


Now that you have done all this work, did you take any pictures along the way? Or could you post some now?

I'm interested in what this setup looks like. I'd also like to use all four RAM slots!









Mike


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Now that you have done all this work, did you take any pictures along the way? Or could you post some now?
> 
> I'm interested in what this setup looks like. I'd also like to use all four RAM slots!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


I didn't take them along the way but I'll try to take some tomorrow during the day (so there's some better lighting in them).
I'll try getting the main "points" in detail (amd bracket positions, screw clearance and the VRM "slide-in").

If there's anything specific you'd like to see let me know!


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Hello again, everybody!
> 
> Thanks to the advice of some awesome folk in this thread I ended up purchasing a CVF-Z for my 8350 (with an H220 and 4 RAM sticks to deal with).
> 
> To anyone who has ANY doubt on how to do this, I would like to leave the following tips:
> 
> 1. Mount the AMD brackets from *below* the pump/block, so that you can install it at a 90º rotation from it's usual position. (I believe usually you'd do it from the upper side)
> 2. Gently tug the swivel barbs (I didn't mod anything or take anything apart, it's exactly as it comes in the box) so the tubes come straight up from the pump/block.
> 3. Get the 4 screws in the AMD mount, don't forget the springs!
> 4. Mount it on your motherboard (one of the brackets has to be slid under the VRM heatsink groove.. it's VERY intuitive though and you don't have to force anything!).. and then tug the swivel barbs to your preferred position as with the screws bottomed out things should no longer be in the way.
> 
> Currently at 4715MHz and 1.39v, prime95 brings it to 65 core, 59 socket according to HWMonitor, so I'd say everything's working great (no golden chip.. oh well!).
> 
> Hope this can help someone who is on the fence about this as I was.. or struggling with it in any way!


Thank you! Just what I needed to hear. I shall try this.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Hello again, everybody!
> 
> Currently at 4715MHz and 1.39v, prime95 brings it to 65 core, 59 socket according to HWMonitor, so I'd say everything's working great (no golden chip.. oh well!).


Are you sure those temps are correct? 65C is really high for the core, especially at that voltage.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you sure those temps are correct? 65C is really high for the core, especially at that voltage.


They seem fairly high to me as well, but HWMonitor is reporting that on Package temp so I stopped raising voltage/trying to get a higher clock for the day.
I could try ASUS' Suite to see if I get different readings but I'm pretty sure that would only give me the Socket temp.. Any ideas on other reliable temp reading software?
Room temp is about 20ºC, btw.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Do you have a fan blowing on the VRMs and/ or on the back of the socket?


----------



## M3TAl

I and many others trust in HWiNFO64. Yes it displays TONS of info and is busy/hard to look at on first glance but it is fully customizable. The program is also updated for new hardware and bug fixes constantly.

I'd expect core temps more around 45-50C with 1.4V. Think your chip is better than mine. This 8350 takes 1.44-1.45V for 4.715GHz.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Do you have a fan blowing on the VRMs and/ or on the back of the socket?


I do have one on the VRM's, can get one on the back of the socket to see if things get a little better! Can't believe I didn't think of that.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Great, any pictures would be appreciated.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I and many others trust in HWiNFO64. Yes it displays TONS of info and is busy/hard to look at on first glance but it is fully customizable. The program is also updated for new hardware and bug fixes constantly.
> 
> I'd expect core temps more around 45-50C with 1.4V. Think your chip is better than mine. This 8350 takes 1.44-1.45V for 4.715GHz.


I'll try things out a bit more tomorrow as well as take some pics of how everything fits together.. would be nice to get 45-50 during Prime95 at 1.392v/4715MHz, for sure!

DL'd HWiNFO64, looks like my kind of program! Thanks for the tip!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Great, any pictures would be appreciated.


I'll do those tomorrow during daytime, let me know if there's any specific part you'd like to see!


----------



## hornedfrog86

Thanks, the socket area(front & backside) and vrm area. Cheers!


----------



## ChromeD2

Alrighty! Photos as requested!
Sorry in advance for the HUGE post size!

Bear with me here as I've never posted images to this forum before.. And I have quite a few to post.
I'll be redoing cable management once I'm 100% happy with the setup/temps, so excuse any sinful bits for now!

I also noticed I probably got mixed up in the original explanation. In order to get the screws+springs on the AMD brackets you have to tug it 'til it's sideways, and then go back to the normal "upright" position, not the other way around! (there's a pic showing it).
I don't have a close-up picture of the top left but it's exactly the same "trick" to fit the screws as with the bottom left.. tug the swivel barb sideways a bit and the screw goes in easily without forcing anything.

Time for the juicy bits:

Full Front:


Full Back:


Backplate w/ Fan (Have since secured it more properly, as I had just added it to see if it fits.. 140mm might be a bit too much but it fits there easier for now!):


And the detailed "important areas":

Top Right:


Bottom Right:


Bottom Left:


Bottom Left 2 (angled to better show the bracket that is slid under the VRM groove):


Bottom Left 3 (adjusted the swivel barb to the position where you can access the screw properly):


VRM with Fan over it (I have since moved the mount on the Antec SpotCool to another motherboard screw where it stays in the place I want it to):


Finally, two quick screen caps from HWiNFO64 before/during a Prime95 Blend test, where it got to 65-66 Core even quicker than usually does, then stood there for ~30min before I stopped it. (Room temp was 21ºC):

Idle:

Load:


Current system specs are updated on my rig builder link, on my sig!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Alrighty! Photos as requested!
> Sorry in advance for the HUGE post size!
> 
> Bear with me here as I've never posted images to this forum before.. And I have quite a few to post.
> I'll be redoing cable management once I'm 100% happy with the setup/temps, so excuse any sinful bits for now!
> 
> I also noticed I probably got mixed up in the original explanation. In order to get the screws+springs on the AMD brackets you have to tug it 'til it's sideways, and then go back to the normal "upright" position, not the other way around! (there's a pic showing it).
> I don't have a close-up picture of the top left but it's exactly the same "trick" to fit the screws as with the bottom left.. tug the swivel barb sideways a bit and the screw goes in easily without forcing anything.
> 
> Bottom Left 3 (adjusted the swivel barb to the position where you can access the screw properly):
> 
> 
> Finally, two quick screen caps from HWiNFO64 before/during a Prime95 Blend test, where it got to 65-66 Core even quicker than usually does, then stood there for ~30min before I stopped it. (Room temp was 21ºC):
> 
> Current system specs are updated on my rig builder link, on my sig!


OK, that's your problem. You didn't follow the directions properly in putting the AMD brackets on your water block. They are supposed to go on top of the stock mounting brackets and not underneath. This is most likely why your contact is poor and why you are getting such high temperatures. Please go back and follow the instructions on how to assemble the AMD mounting brackets. This should resolve your issue.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, that's your problem. You didn't follow the directions properly in putting the AMD brackets on your water block. They are supposed to go on top of the stock mounting brackets and not underneath. This is most likely why your contact is poor and why you are getting such high temperatures. Please go back and follow the instructions on how to assemble the AMD mounting brackets. This should resolve your issue.


Hey there!

I'll give that a try as soon as I can, hoping everything still has room to fit as it currently does if I place the AMD brackets on top of the stock mounting bracket.
My concern is that the AMD brackets might not fit in this orientation because of the swivel barb, but I'm not sure I tried doing it the proper way or not.

Thanks for the help, mate!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Alrighty! Photos as requested!
> Sorry in advance for the HUGE post size!
> 
> Bear with me here as I've never posted images to this forum before.. And I have quite a few to post.
> I'll be redoing cable management once I'm 100% happy with the setup/temps, so excuse any sinful bits for now!
> 
> I also noticed I probably got mixed up in the original explanation. In order to get the screws+springs on the AMD brackets you have to tug it 'til it's sideways, and then go back to the normal "upright" position, not the other way around! (there's a pic showing it).
> I don't have a close-up picture of the top left but it's exactly the same "trick" to fit the screws as with the bottom left.. tug the swivel barb sideways a bit and the screw goes in easily without forcing anything.
> 
> Bottom Left 3 (adjusted the swivel barb to the position where you can access the screw properly):
> 
> 
> Finally, two quick screen caps from HWiNFO64 before/during a Prime95 Blend test, where it got to 65-66 Core even quicker than usually does, then stood there for ~30min before I stopped it. (Room temp was 21ºC):
> 
> Current system specs are updated on my rig builder link, on my sig!
> 
> 
> 
> OK, that's your problem. You didn't follow the directions properly in putting the AMD brackets on your water block. They are supposed to go on top of the stock mounting brackets and not underneath. This is most likely why your contact is poor and why you are getting such high temperatures. Please go back and follow the instructions on how to assemble the AMD mounting brackets. This should resolve your issue.
Click to expand...

i did it this way with no ill effects, all screw are tight though


----------



## JourneymanMike

@ChromeD2 Thanks for the pics! I appreciate them.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, that's your problem. You didn't follow the directions properly in putting the AMD brackets on your water block. They are supposed to go on top of the stock mounting brackets and not underneath. This is most likely why your contact is poor and why you are getting such high temperatures. Please go back and follow the instructions on how to assemble the AMD mounting brackets. This should resolve your issue.


There's one problem with mounting it the proper way....



As you can see it blocks off the first RAM slot! That is, of coarse, if I mounted it correctly!

P.S. It is pushing on the RAM in the second slot!

MIke


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> There's one problem with mounting it the proper way....
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it blocks off the first RAM slot! That is, of coarse, if I mounted it correctly!
> 
> P.S. It is pushing on the RAM in the second slot!
> 
> MIke


I think @BramSLI1 meant for me to try and mount it with the 90º rotation but with the AMD brackets on top of the stock brackets, rather than below (I'm going to try that tonight as soon as I find the time and will report on it when I'm done!)


----------



## os2wiz

Brian, After 9 months of service my Swiftech H320 crapped out on me yesterday.I bought it from NCIX.CA on 7/23/13 and it was delivered in late August to my door. It started with cpu fan failure message from bios on boot up . I had the pump on my ASUS Crosshair V Formula Z cpu fan header. The fans were running on the SATA splitter and connected to my cpu optional pwm header. The cooler fans were fully oprerable. I checked into the bios and checked the cpu temp monitor. It started high and went quickly to 98 Celcius before I exited and turned the power switch off. Do you know what kinf of coverage I have from NCIX.CA. If they won't replace it will I get any consideratiion from Swiftech? I really don't have money to throw down the toilet, I am retired on SSA and a pension. I stuck with Swiftech through the ordeals of the past year and a half because I had a fundamental belief that your company has great technology and a committment to its customers. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Brian, After 9 months of service my Swiftech H320 crapped out on me yesterday.I bought it from NCIX.CA on 7/23/13 and it was delivered in late August to my door. It started with cpu fan failure message from bios on boot up . I had the pump on my ASUS Crosshair V Formula Z cpu fan header. The fans were running on the SATA splitter and connected to my cpu optional pwm header. The cooler fans were fully oprerable. I checked into the bios and checked the cpu temp monitor. It started high and went quickly to 98 Celcius before I exited and turned the power switch off. Do you know what kinf of coverage I have from NCIX.CA. If they won't replace it will I get any consideratiion from Swiftech? I really don't have money to throw down the toilet, I am retired on SSA and a pension. I stuck with Swiftech through the ordeals of the past year and a half because I had a fundamental belief that your company has great technology and a committment to its customers. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


Have you tried connecting the pump to the splitter? I have had a couple of ASUS fan headers die on me, and this would be the result if you had a power issue to the header. Also, why did you elect to plug the pump into the MB rather than into the splitter?


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tried connecting the pump to the splitter? I have had a couple of ASUS fan headers die on me, and this would be the result if you had a power issue to the header. Also, why did you elect to plug the pump into the MB rather than into the splitter?


Yes I did connect it to the splitter with the same result of high temperatures. It should ge obvious why I connected itto te mb insead of splitter. You have more control that way and can raise fan speeds and pump speed independently.


----------



## Mega Man

you only get 30 days from most any vender in the us, the warranty is handled through swiftech


----------



## ChromeD2

@BramSLI1: I can confirm that it's impossible for me to mount the AMD brackets on top of the stock mounting bracket while maintaining the 90º rotation from the original pump position. The swivel barbs just don't allow for the AMD brackets to be mounted that way.
I can't currently afford to switch to a 2x8GB setup or to another cooling system. I also likely won't switch to a new motherboard until AM3+ dies out performance-wise for what I need.

I think I'm out of options, by my own fault.. Though I'm definitely not unhappy with 4715MHz and with these temps, as aside from stress testing I rarely get to 60ºC even on the most demanding tasks.


----------



## Mega Man

assuming stock config of unit ( stock fans ect ) your oc seems normal for a average chip and so little rad space

if you upgrade your fans to some high rpm/high static pressure then you can go a bit farther, but meh silence vs performance is a trade off so it is up to you, i think i will be buying some 5400 GTs ( 100 of them ) for my main rigs


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> @BramSLI1: I can confirm that it's impossible for me to mount the AMD brackets on top of the stock mounting bracket while maintaining the 90º rotation from the original pump position. The swivel barbs just don't allow for the AMD brackets to be mounted that way.
> I can't currently afford to switch to a 2x8GB setup or to another cooling system. I also likely won't switch to a new motherboard until AM3+ dies out performance-wise for what I need.
> 
> I think I'm out of options, by my own fault.. Though I'm definitely not unhappy with 4715MHz and with these temps, as aside from stress testing I rarely get to 60ºC even on the most demanding tasks.


This is what I have when mounted according to directions. I can only use the tan RAM slots on my Sabertooth!

But I do have an OC of 5016.73MHz

http://valid.canardpc.com/6ceite


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you only get 30 days from most any vender in the us, the warranty is handled through swiftech


The problem is H320 is not sold in US. I bought from ncix.ca , a Canadian internet retailer. Their should be some warranty protection.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The problem is H320 is not sold in US. I bought from ncix.ca , a Canadian internet retailer. Their should be some warranty protection.


Swiftech is still covering warranty on the units in the USA though. They are not allowed to sell but that doesnt affect their warranty.

Ncix gets to likely sell them because their HQ is in Canada. They also have a california, washington and new york location now as well. I know I have will called from their CA location before but store coverage is usually no more than 30 days unless you bought an extended warranty from the store. Regardless Swiftech has been taking care of the USA units.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tried connecting the pump to the splitter? I have had a couple of ASUS fan headers die on me, and this would be the result if you had a power issue to the header. Also, why did you elect to plug the pump into the MB rather than into the splitter?


I want to add that I connected the splitter cable to both the cpu fan header and the cpu optional header with the same cpu fan error message. The temperature rise was a little less dramatic than I first suggested. bUt it was enough for it to shut down on it's own while I was monitoring the cpu temp in bios.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you only get 30 days from most any vender in the us, _*the warranty is handled through swiftech*_
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is H320 is not sold in US. I bought from ncix.ca , a Canadian internet retailer. Their should be some warranty protection.
Click to expand...

and i answered your question.

i really hope you had it set to pwm and not voltage control


----------



## Teufelshunde

Got my original H220 summer 2013, worked great for 9 months, Mar 2014 got cpu errors and started RMA process, Swiftech/Brian took care of me and I had a new updated (new revision) H220 in 6 weeks. Installed new unit April 16th 2014, worked great till today and now I have the dreaded pump noise. Double checked fluid levels and turned the computer in every possible angel routine. No joy. Temps are still were they were before 28c -30c while surfing net. Haven't tried a game but not expecting any difference normally 45c - 55c depending on game. Have always used splitter connected as recommended. One noticeable change other than noise is the pump is now constantly cycling between 1800-2000 were it use to just hover around the 1800. Noise is audible throughout its rpm range. Already sent Swiftech/Brian an email with sound file, just wanted to post in forums.

r/s


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and i answered your question.
> 
> i really hope you had it set to pwm and not voltage control


PWM control.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Brian, After 9 months of service my Swiftech H320 crapped out on me yesterday.I bought it from NCIX.CA on 7/23/13 and it was delivered in late August to my door. It started with cpu fan failure message from bios on boot up . I had the pump on my ASUS Crosshair V Formula Z cpu fan header. The fans were running on the SATA splitter and connected to my cpu optional pwm header. The cooler fans were fully oprerable. I checked into the bios and checked the cpu temp monitor. It started high and went quickly to 98 Celcius before I exited and turned the power switch off. Do you know what kinf of coverage I have from NCIX.CA. If they won't replace it will I get any consideratiion from Swiftech? I really don't have money to throw down the toilet, I am retired on SSA and a pension. I stuck with Swiftech through the ordeals of the past year and a half because I had a fundamental belief that your company has great technology and a committment to its customers. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


I'm sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting a replacement.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting a replacement.


I have to admit that I believe now I came to the wrong conclusion about the pump being defective. I took out the Swiftech unit and put my backup a twin tower fan in thecomputer. When I hooked up the the fan connector to the cpu fan header, the fans did not turn and I got the same cpu fan error message and eventual shutdown. What had confused me yesterday was fatigue and not relating the swiftech fans powering up to the sata connector . So the suggestion was correct that the cpu fan connector and I also believe the other pwm header cpu opt are both defective. I have never experienced such a fan header failure before in all my years using Asus and Gigabyte boards. I will have to contact Asus to rma the Crosshair V Formula Z. Thanks to all of you for steering me in the correct direction.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting a replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit that I believe niw I came to tge wrong conclusion about the pump being defective. I took out the Swiftech unit and put my backup a twin tower fan in thecomputer. When I hooked up the the fan connector to the cpu fan header, the fans did not turn and I got the same cpu fan error message and eventual shutdown. What had confused me esterday was fatigue and not relating the swiftech fans powering up to the sata connector . So the suggestion that the cpu fan connector and I also believe the other pwm header cpu opt are both defective. I have never experienced such a fan header failure before in all muy years using Asus and Gigabyte boards. I will have to contact Aus to rma the Crosshair V Formula Z..
Click to expand...

piece of advice, dont mention you put a pump on the header,

you pulled too many amps through the header and burned it out, to my knowledge cpu/cpu opt run off the same header. also use the pwm splitter for the pump next time


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> piece of advice, dont mention you put a pump on the header,
> 
> you pulled too many amps through the header and burned it out, to my knowledge cpu/cpu opt run off the same header. also use the pwm splitter for the pump next time


That may be correct but the Corsair H100i runs off the cpu fan header I believe without sata connector. Correct me if I m wrong. I will follow your suggestion. I do wan't to say when I first got my H320 I had mentioned my intent to run the pump separately from the splitter and no one warned me of this danger


----------



## Mega Man

pump is weaker


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> That may be correct but the Corsair H100i runs off the cpu fan header I believe without sata connector. Correct me if I m wrong. I will follow your suggestion. I do wan't to say when I first got my H320 I had mentioned my intent to run the pump separately from the splitter and no one warned me of this danger


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pump is weaker


+1 The asetek/coolit pumps pull less wattage/amps and are far less likely to blow a fan header due to this. Although the Swiftech pump might pull more amps it also moves much more water than those aforementioned pumps.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pump is weaker


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pump is weaker


Yes of course . I had reasoned with the 3 fans on the sata splitter , the pump would be manageable. But of course I was wrong.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pump is weaker
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pump is weaker
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes of course . I had reasoned with the 3 fans on the sata splitter , the pump would be manageable. But of course I was wrong.
Click to expand...

meh happens


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> +1 The asetek/coolit pumps pull less wattage/amps and are far less likely to blow a fan header due to this. Although the Swiftech pump might pull more amps it also moves much more water than those aforementioned pumps.


I know you mean well, but I am not a blithering idiot. I did make a mistake but I bought a Swiftech H320 BECAUSE it has a more powerful pump thicker tubing, copper radiator fins, and runs quiter. I actually know the pump is 3 times more powerful than the Asetk pump on the H100i. Like I said I posted on this forum late last spring that I intended to run the pump separately from the pwm sata splitter so I could mahage pwm profiles independently for the pump and fans. You can't do that if they are all on the same splitter. Nobody cautioned me against it or the possibly burning out the pwm cpu fan header on my Crosshair V Formula Z. I usually air out my intentions on a forum when I jump into a new technology.
Sometimes people get caught up in their own problem on the forums and posts like mine slip by without a cautionary reply. This is no criticism of anyone in particular, as many here like Mega are clearly very helpful. Just it is a frustrating experience for me, closely following the disaster the 14.4 AMD Catayst drivers caused to my system.


----------



## WDizzle

Does anyone have or would be interested in a 3D model of the H220 pump cover? I work for a company that sells Makerbots and was thinking of creating a model that one could print in any color filament. I am thinking of creating a 2 toned black and green cover myself, the base being black and the honeycomb part UV green.


----------



## krusty50

Hi Brian,

Any updates of the H220X availability?

What about online reviews? I'd really like to see numbers (esp. versus a H220) before committing to buy a unit

Thanks!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WDizzle*
> 
> Does anyone have or would be interested in a 3D model of the H220 pump cover? I work for a company that sells Makerbots and was thinking of creating a model that one could print in any color filament. I am thinking of creating a 2 toned black and green cover myself, the base being black and the honeycomb part UV green.


Sounds pretty cool. Easy to switch out your look.


----------



## LordOfTots

Anyone using a H220 with a 9590, or another highly clocked AMD 8-core? Thinking about getting on this weekend over the H100i and haven't made up my mind between the two. And how is the noise on the stock fans?


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krusty50*
> 
> Hi Brian,
> 
> Any updates of the H220X availability?
> 
> What about online reviews? I'd really like to see numbers (esp. versus a H220) before committing to buy a unit
> 
> Thanks!


I'd like an update as well! I'd really, REALLY like a brand-spankin'-new H220X to top off my upcoming 4790K and Maximus VII Formula build.

You wouldn't make me deface this sweet-ass build with.......with.....A STOCK COOLER, would you???

/cue Redd Foxx impression

Elizabeth!!!


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordOfTots*
> 
> how is the noise on the stock fans?


We did once on this thread some ear test with 3 different fan models:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/7940#post_21299882

Hope it helps to understand the noise levels of the stock fans.

If not, we can also demonstrate the fan noise levels through Skype conversation.

Just PM us, and we arrange a meeting with youcells on Skype.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> I'd like an update as well! I'd really, REALLY like a brand-spankin'-new H220X to top off my upcoming 4790K and Maximus VII Formula build.
> 
> You wouldn't make me deface this sweet-ass build with.......with.....A STOCK COOLER, would you???
> 
> /cue Redd Foxx impression
> 
> Elizabeth!!!


It's supposed to come out this week, I'll be at a loss for words if they somehow manage to delay it for the FOURTH time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> It's supposed to come out this week, I'll be at a loss for words if they somehow manage to delay it for the FOURTH time.


We are doing our best to release these new kits as soon as possible. I don't currently have confirmation that they will be released this week though. There were some last minute revisions to the PCB that shouldn't have taken long to implement, but sometimes things happen that are out of our control. We want to make absolutely certain that these are very best that we can possibly make them, and that means that when they are released that our customers will be pleased with what they receive.


----------



## LordOfTots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We did once on this thread some ear test with 3 different fan models:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/7940#post_21299882
> 
> Hope it helps to understand the noise levels of the stock fans.
> 
> If not, we can also demonstrate the fan noise levels through Skype conversation.
> 
> Just PM us, and we arrange a meeting with youcells on Skype.


Thanks, that's more than helpful


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We are doing our best to release these new kits as soon as possible. I don't currently have confirmation that they will be released this week though. There were some last minute revisions to the PCB that shouldn't have taken long to implement, but sometimes things happen that are out of our control. We want to make absolutely certain that these are very best that we can possibly make them, and that means that when they are released that our customers will be pleased with what they receive.


Sigh... No words to express my disappointment, it's really not fun being strung along like this. I'm done waiting.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Sigh... No words to express my disappointment, it's really not fun being strung along like this. I'm done waiting.


I understand and I sent you a PM to help explain this current situation.


----------



## Teufelshunde

2nd RMA process started, pump noise throughout the rpm spectrum. Tried all the suggested tips to remove air (if it is air) and worked with Swiftech (Brian), unfortunately no luck. Thanks again Brian for your quick response and crossing fingers that 3 is a charm.


----------



## grunion

Help second failed Glacer 240L.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1492468/second-dead-glacer-240l#post_22334516


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to my knowledge cpu/cpu opt run off the same header.


You are correct, I inquired about fan headers and Asus confirmed this to be true (maximus v formula)

One of the reasons I am upgrading to a Maximus VII formula is that on most new Asus Z97 boards ALL headers will be PWM, should save Brian and Swiftech quite a few headaches I would Imagine









Still waiting on that MCP50x release... bummer it keeps getting pushed back. I suppose it will be released first week of June now that my Z97 motherboard and a Devils Canyon CPu have become top priority

@ Pahani I see you and I have similiar upgrade plans as I am sure many others do too, lets just hope that Intel
doesnt screw that up for us and postpone the DC release


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> You are correct, I inquired about fan headers and Asus confirmed this to be true (maximus v formula)
> *
> One of the reasons I am upgrading to a Maximus VII formula is that on most new Asus Z97 boards ALL headers will be PWM*, should save Brian and Swiftech quite a few headaches I would Imagine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on that MCP50x release... bummer it keeps getting pushed back. I suppose it will be released first week of June now that my Z97 motherboard and a Devils Canyon CPu have become top priority
> 
> @ Pahani I see you and I have similiar upgrade plans as I am sure many others do too, lets just hope that Intel
> doesnt screw that up for us and postpone the DC release


I wonder if this will be true this time, or just more baiting.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to my knowledge cpu/cpu opt run off the same header.
> 
> 
> 
> You are correct, I inquired about fan headers and Asus confirmed this to be true (maximus v formula)
> 
> One of the reasons I am upgrading to a Maximus VII formula is that on most new Asus Z97 boards ALL headers will be PWM, should save Brian and Swiftech quite a few headaches I would Imagine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on that MCP50x release... bummer it keeps getting pushed back. I suppose it will be released first week of June now that my Z97 motherboard and a Devils Canyon CPu have become top priority
> 
> @ Pahani I see you and I have similiar upgrade plans as I am sure many others do too, lets just hope that Intel
> doesnt screw that up for us and postpone the DC release
Click to expand...

i would rather have a product done right then a product rushed to the floor


----------



## zila

Exactly, I'd rather they take their time and give us a good high quality product in the end.


----------



## kstud

Got the h220 installed a couple days ago. Fired it up and ran some prime95. Temp immediately shot up to mid 80's hitting 90's a few times. Not being new to water cooling (own a dual D5 pump, 240 and 360 rads), decided to bleed the system of air and remounted the H220. After 24hrs, temp improved but was still hitting mid 80's on a few occasions (on full max RPM 1800 fans and 3000 pump). Feeling disappointed and frustrated, I jumped onto the internet to research the high temp. Ran across LinusTechTips' multiple reviews and redux of the h220 and saw that changing the fans yielded over 10C reduction in temp.

Off I went to change out the helix fans to some 800rpm S-flex D fans. Taking off the helix and mounting the S-flex fans, the screws were too damn short. At this point, I was ready to just toss the h220 and go back to my trusty dual tower air cooler but decided to visit the hardware store. After getting the correct screws and mounting the S-flex D fans, I started up the system and ran prime95.

Amazing, temps were in the low 70's, feeling much better I decided to mount push pull with 4 x 800 rpm S-flex D fans, temp dropped even further to mid to high 60's. Perhaps I just got some bad fans (it doesn't matter as I prefer the 800 rpm S-flex acoustic to the 1800 rpm helix) but problem solved.

The h220 is one of the best AIO cooler on the market (removing fans variable, comparing coolers with same fans) and the ability to add radiators and gpu's into the loop is a welcome bonus.

Also saw the h220x debut, nice design but for me, it's just another mcr-drive pump and reservoir combo with an added cpu block. Although I liked that the radiator has been shortened, the pump and reservoir placement has significantly made it thicker, removing the possibility of PUSH/PULL configuration for its benefits&#8230;lower rpm fans with quieter operations and improve temps.

Overall, I'm quite pleased with the H220 and with its current pricing on NCIXUS.com, it's one of the best price/performance cooler on the planet. I'm hoping they have worked out all the kinks with the h220 and it'll last for years.

Great Job Swiftech.


----------



## Mega Man

well wrote review, although i am not in 100% agreement with it, still nice review !


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would rather have a product done right then a product rushed to the floor


In swiftech's case I agree with you 100%, as for Intel I am pretty sure they got it right already and if the new cpu's do get pushed back it will probably be for a completely different reason


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> You are correct, I inquired about fan headers and Asus confirmed this to be true (maximus v formula)
> 
> One of the reasons I am upgrading to a Maximus VII formula is that on most new Asus Z97 boards ALL headers will be PWM, should save Brian and Swiftech quite a few headaches I would Imagine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting on that MCP50x release... bummer it keeps getting pushed back. I suppose it will be released first week of June now that my Z97 motherboard and a Devils Canyon CPu have become top priority
> 
> @ Pahani I see you and I have similiar upgrade plans as I am sure many others do too, lets just hope that Intel
> doesnt screw that up for us and postpone the DC release


Ohh, thanks for that tidbit on the Z97 fan headers.....that's a detail I wasn't aware of. The M6F has a reputation as a great board, they didn't have to change a thing with the M7F (besides Z97 chipset) to make me buy it LOL....so any improvements are icing to me.

Yep, our tastes seem nearly identical! 4790K, M7F, H220X, and ASUS ROG SWIFT are the parts I'm still waiting on.......


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kstud*
> 
> Got the h220 installed a couple days ago. Fired it up and ran some prime95. Temp immediately shot up to mid 80's hitting 90's a few times.


Youcells might also want to check your AMD installation brackets position (H220 English manual page 4):

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10070#post_22315896


----------



## jibatron

Hi everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with temps or performance with mounting the AMD hardware upside down. That is putting the amd bracket underneath the existing pump bracket and screwing it from the top side. For my setup it would help mounting the pump so the in/outlets would be on the top and bottom appose to the side to side. I noticed Mega Man had some pics on his profile with the pump mounted side ways and the bracket underneath. I realize the instructions say the the brackets should go ontop of the water block and be screwed in from bottom. Any ones input would be appreciated

Edit: looks like some others have tried this method a few post back and were having hight temps. I also tried it and one thing I noticed was the the blob of TIM didn't spread out like when the brackets are installed correctly. The same amount of Tim covers the hole chip with brackets installed correctly and when the brackets are installed the wrong way that same amount of Tim only spread around a bit instead of covering the chip.


----------



## zila

I tried it and my temps went up. Bram also commented somewhere that it's a no-no.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Hi everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with temps or performance with mounting the AMD hardware upside down. That is putting the amd bracket underneath the existing pump bracket and screwing it from the top side. For my setup it would help mounting the pump so the in/outlets would be on the top and bottom appose to the side to side. I noticed Mega Man had some pics on his profile with the pump mounted side ways and the bracket underneath. I realize the instructions say the the brackets should go ontop of the water block and be screwed in from bottom. Any ones input would be appreciated
> 
> Edit: looks like some others have tried this method a few post back and were having hight temps. I also tried it and one thing I noticed was the the blob of TIM didn't spread out like when the brackets are installed correctly. The same amount of Tim covers the hole chip with brackets installed correctly and when the brackets are installed the wrong way that same amount of Tim only spread around a bit instead of covering the chip.


I ended up putting everything on the normal position (as per Bram / Swiftech's manual instructions), and temps went down quite a lot.
I also managed to get all 4 sticks of RAM on my setup (CVF-Z + H220 + 4x Kingston HyperX Predator 1866MHz), with the first memory stick tilted a very tiny amount towards the 2nd (enough to not make me worry in the slightest).

Temps are really low and stability is awesome, but being able to do this is down to the memory modules and their heatsinks and your ability to install this carefully with a tilted RAM stick. It's hardly ideal but it's working awesomely and survived an all nighter on Prime95 with Max 54ºC at 4740MHz, 1.4v.


----------



## jibatron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> I ended up putting everything on the normal position (as per Bram / Swiftech's manual instructions), and temps went down quite a lot.
> I also managed to get all 4 sticks of RAM on my setup (CVF-Z + H220 + 4x Kingston HyperX Predator 1866MHz), with the first memory stick tilted a very tiny amount towards the 2nd (enough to not make me worry in the slightest).
> 
> Temps are really low and stability is awesome, but being able to do this is down to the memory modules and their heatsinks and your ability to install this carefully with a tilted RAM stick. It's hardly ideal but it's working awesomely and survived an all nighter on Prime95 with Max 54ºC at 4740MHz, 1.4v.


Thanks for the reply and temp reading with voltages. It's nice knowing that my 9590 hitting a max of mid 50's celcius is looking like a normal temp even with a 360 rad


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jibatron*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and temp reading with voltages. It's nice knowing that my 9590 hitting a max of mid 50's celcius is looking like a normal temp even with a 360 rad


Yep sounds like normal temps for such a hot-running processor! Be sure not to overdo the thermal paste though, as you may not even need the whole tube of TIM that comes with Swiftech's package. I fine-tuned my TIM application over testing things with this processor and less paste is definitely the way to go.


----------



## Emu105

Guys if I do this methond 



 .. How good would my temps be for a 4770k and a 780ti? Right now when i game my 780Ti runs around 75c and depends that game my cpu oc to 4.2ghz never goes above 60c with a h100i. So i order a h220 off NCIX they have a sale for it going for 99.99 so I was wondering what if i do that method how would my temps be looking like? Thanks!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Guys if I do this methond
> 
> 
> 
> .. How good would my temps be for a 4770k and a 780ti? Right now when i game my 780Ti runs around 75c and depends that game my cpu oc to 4.2ghz never goes above 60c with a h100i. So i order a h220 off NCIX they have a sale for it going for 99.99 so I was wondering what if i do that method how would my temps be looking like? Thanks!


Hard to say for sure with all the other variables included in such estimates but here's my two usage scenarios given the same ambient temps of ~66F.

Stock 240mm + thin 120mm + 2500k 4.2Ghz + mild OC GTX 670 FTW = 46 cpu / 44 gpu

Stock 240mm + alphacool 60mm 240mm + 2500k 4.2Ghz + GTX 780 (+140gpu/+400mem) = 40 cpu / 38 cpu

I'd guess with just the stock 240mm you would be running a little on the warmer side at probably mid 50s for both the 4770k and 780ti if not more.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Guys if I do this methond
> 
> 
> 
> .. How good would my temps be for a 4770k and a 780ti? Right now when i game my 780Ti runs around 75c and depends that game my cpu oc to 4.2ghz never goes above 60c with a h100i. So i order a h220 off NCIX they have a sale for it going for 99.99 so I was wondering what if i do that method how would my temps be looking like? Thanks!


On my gtx770 using an ek universal gpu block, my temps dropped about 25c using the cpu and gpu on the 240mm radiator, I would recommend adding another 240mm for ideal temps since you have a 780ti or getting the 360mm version.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Guys if I do this methond
> 
> 
> 
> .. How good would my temps be for a 4770k and a 780ti? Right now when i game my 780Ti runs around 75c and depends that game my cpu oc to 4.2ghz never goes above 60c with a h100i. So i order a h220 off NCIX they have a sale for it going for 99.99 so I was wondering what if i do that method how would my temps be looking like? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to say for sure with all the other variables included in such estimates but here's my two usage scenarios given the same ambient temps of ~66F.
> 
> Stock 240mm + thin 120mm + 2500k 4.2Ghz + mild OC GTX 670 FTW = 46 cpu / 44 gpu
> 
> Stock 240mm + alphacool 60mm 240mm + 2500k 4.2Ghz + GTX 780 (+140gpu/+400mem) = 40 cpu / 38 cpu
> 
> I'd guess with just the stock 240mm you would be running a little on the warmer side at probably mid 50s for both the 4770k and 780ti if not more.
Click to expand...

The Temps your giving me for cpu and gpu that's around load for games ?? I mean if so I thinks that's very good since my gpu around 75c and cpu is around 60c a bit less but that's max ... I might just do that but these water blocks are so much money.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> The Temps your giving me for cpu and gpu that's around load for games ?? I mean if so I thinks that's very good since my gpu around 75c and cpu is around 60c a bit less but that's max ... I might just do that but these water blocks are so much money.


Yes those would be under load, I think with the 4770k typically running hotter than the older gens my temps might be on target but it's hard to say. Get some decent fans for the 240mm and you should be set really. Your ambient temps are really what will set the bar for what to expect especially with a pretty "dynamic" summer here in the New England area. If you got a A/C then should be even better.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> The Temps your giving me for cpu and gpu that's around load for games ?? I mean if so I thinks that's very good since my gpu around 75c and cpu is around 60c a bit less but that's max ... I might just do that but these water blocks are so much money.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes those would be under load, I think with the 4770k typically running hotter than the older gens my temps might be on target but it's hard to say. Get some decent fans for the 240mm and you should be set really. Your ambient temps are really what will set the bar for what to expect especially with a pretty "dynamic" summer here in the New England area. If you got a A/C then should be even better.
Click to expand...

when I game I try to keep my room around 72f


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> The Temps your giving me for cpu and gpu that's around load for games ?? I mean if so I thinks that's very good since my gpu around 75c and cpu is around 60c a bit less but that's max ... I might just do that but these water blocks are so much money.


And thats why I like the universal gpu blocks available from a few companies, besides being in the $50-70 range, they can be used on several types of gpu's rather than just one and your done if you sell the card. The one downside to them is you need to make sure you have proper cooling for your vrm's and memory although memory especially if left at stock speeds wont need a heatsink but just good airflow. VRM's you will want heatsinks. Heatsinks for memory might be another $15 but when you consider the long term use you will get from the gpu block, you will save money in the long run when you get your next gpu and can reuse the block.

Its not for everyone but hey it works great


----------



## ChampN252

So is a new version of these being released? I didn't wanna go pages back


----------



## gdubc

Any day now.

as mentioned a few posts ago...


----------



## ChampN252

sounds intriguing. I'll probably buy the day of. The AIO is a slick design


----------



## jbdino

I am considering the Swiftech H220 and possibly the H220x if it comes out in time for my upcoming build. One thing I'm slightly concerned about is the coolant maintenance, particularly due to the potential for user error and leaks or air being introduced to the system. I do plan to overclock, but I don't plan on installing any additional water cooling components or creating a custom loop. The manual recommends replacing the coolant at three years. Why is this? If I would rather set and forget, like other AIO coolers, what would happen if I don't change the coolant?

In addition, from user experience here, how reliable is the pump? I've been very impressed with the performance I've seen so far, however, reliability appears to be an issue with quite a few users reporting a broken pump after some time. I don't think anyone wants to have their system fail, but if the rates are high enough, it may be worth it to go with the Corsair H110 instead.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> I am considering the Swiftech H220 and possibly the H220x if it comes out in time for my upcoming build. One thing I'm slightly concerned about is the coolant maintenance, particularly due to the potential for user error and leaks or air being introduced to the system. I do plan to overclock, but I don't plan on installing any additional water cooling components or creating a custom loop. The manual recommends replacing the coolant at three years. Why is this? If I would rather set and forget, like other AIO coolers, what would happen if I don't change the coolant?
> 
> In addition, from user experience here, how reliable is the pump? I've been very impressed with the performance I've seen so far, however, reliability appears to be an issue with quite a few users reporting a broken pump after some time. I don't think anyone wants to have their system fail, but if the rates are high enough, it may be worth it to go with the Corsair H110 instead.


OK, to answer your first question, these kits aren't sealed in the same way that other AIO kits are sealed because ours was designed to be expanded. This means that when evaporation starts to set in, air will be introduced into the loop. Our recommendation of 3 years is subjective because due to usage and the environment in which the kit is used you may have to perform maintenance on it more frequently due to evaporation. The introduction of air also poses an issue due to biological growth and coolant contamination. That's why maintenance will likely be required at some point during the life of this product.

If you're worried about pump failures you have to understand that these are normal issues in any water cooling system. The pump is a high-performance device with electronics and moving parts. Therefore it is the part that fails the most and thus requires the most monitoring. I encourage you to also take a look at what customers have said about our competitor's pumps and the issues that they have had with them. I admit that we have had some issues with defective pumps, but we have also made the necessary changes in design to mitigate these issues. We also do our best to provide the utmost in customer support, so as to retain customer confidence.


----------



## jbdino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, to answer your first question, these kits aren't sealed in the same way that other AIO kits are sealed because ours was designed to be expanded. This means that when evaporation starts to set in, air will be introduced into the loop. Our recommendation of 3 years is subjective because due to usage and the environment in which the kit is used you may have to perform maintenance on it more frequently due to evaporation. The introduction of air also poses an issue due to biological growth and coolant contamination. That's why maintenance will likely be required at some point during the life of this product.
> 
> If you're worried about pump failures you have to understand that these are normal issues in any water cooling system. The pump is a high-performance device with electronics and moving parts. Therefore it is the part that fails the most and thus requires the most monitoring. I encourage you to also take a look at what customers have said about our competitor's pumps and the issues that they have had with them. I admit that we have had some issues with defective pumps, but we have also made the necessary changes in design to mitigate these issues. We also do our best to provide the utmost in customer support, so as to retain customer confidence.


Bram, thank you for the rapid and thorough response! I admit that I'm more or less scared of swapping coolant because I don't want to cause leaks and damage any of the components in the cooler or PC. I've never done a water cooling loop before, AIO or otherwise, and am afraid that I'll make an error! Is replacing the fluid a relatively painless process? Would I have to perform some sort of leak testing, and would that be easy to do?

The pump failures I'm less worried about because of the excellent customer support I've seen from the Swiftech folk. A number of failures appear to have been due to incorrect installation, which I would want to avoid. For the 8-way splitter included with the cooler, do I essentially plug in the pump to channel 1 and the 2 cooler fans plus 4 case fans (NZXT H440) into the splitter, followed by attaching the splitter to the CPU fan header on the motherboard and the male molex connector into the PSU? Power comes through the PSU, while PWM modulation comes from the CPU header. Is that correct? If so, that actually makes things very easy and much cleaner than having wires floating around to various headers on the motherboard like with other units. Last, I assume the splitter will accept 3-pin fan connectors?

Some amateur miscellaneous questions:

1) With all fans in the splitter, can I control each one individually, or do any speed adjustments affect all fans indiscriminately?
2) I have heard conflicting information on the H220x release. Are you able to disclose a rough timeline for availability (e.g. June/July)?
3) Being in the U.S. I cannot access the H320. Are there any plans to bring a 280 mm or 360 mm version here?

I realize that these questions may have been answered or may seem very naive, and I thank you for giving your time and patience to assist!


----------



## X-Alt

1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> Bram, thank you for the rapid and thorough response! I admit that I'm more or less scared of swapping coolant because I don't want to cause leaks and damage any of the components in the cooler or PC. I've never done a water cooling loop before, AIO or otherwise, and am afraid that I'll make an error! Is replacing the fluid a relatively painless process? Would I have to perform some sort of leak testing, and would that be easy to do?
> 
> The pump failures I'm less worried about because of the excellent customer support I've seen from the Swiftech folk. A number of failures appear to have been due to incorrect installation, which I would want to avoid. For the 8-way splitter included with the cooler, do I essentially plug in the pump to channel 1 and the 2 cooler fans plus 4 case fans (NZXT H440) into the splitter, followed by attaching the splitter to the CPU fan header on the motherboard and the male molex connector into the PSU? Power comes through the PSU, while PWM modulation comes from the CPU header. Is that correct? If so, that actually makes things very easy and much cleaner than having wires floating around to various headers on the motherboard like with other units. Last, I assume the splitter will accept 3-pin fan connectors?
> 
> Some amateur miscellaneous questions:
> 
> 1) With all fans in the splitter, can I control each one individually, or do any speed adjustments affect all fans indiscriminately?
> 2) I have heard conflicting information on the H220x release. Are you able to disclose a rough timeline for availability (e.g. June/July)?
> 3) Being in the U.S. I cannot access the H320. Are there any plans to bring a 280 mm or 360 mm version here?
> 
> I realize that these questions may have been answered or may seem very naive, and I thank you for giving your time and patience to assist!


I can answer one and three.
1: Nope, they all go under one header and have the control of such (50% on the header = 50% on all fans/pump).
3: Glacer 360L is coming out eventually.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> Bram, thank you for the rapid and thorough response! I admit that I'm more or less scared of swapping coolant because I don't want to cause leaks and damage any of the components in the cooler or PC. I've never done a water cooling loop before, AIO or otherwise, and am afraid that I'll make an error! Is replacing the fluid a relatively painless process? Would I have to perform some sort of leak testing, and would that be easy to do?
> 
> The pump failures I'm less worried about because of the excellent customer support I've seen from the Swiftech folk. A number of failures appear to have been due to incorrect installation, which I would want to avoid. For the 8-way splitter included with the cooler, do I essentially plug in the pump to channel 1 and the 2 cooler fans plus 4 case fans (NZXT H440) into the splitter, followed by attaching the splitter to the CPU fan header on the motherboard and the male molex connector into the PSU? Power comes through the PSU, while PWM modulation comes from the CPU header. Is that correct? If so, that actually makes things very easy and much cleaner than having wires floating around to various headers on the motherboard like with other units. Last, I assume the splitter will accept 3-pin fan connectors?
> 
> Some amateur miscellaneous questions:
> 
> 1) With all fans in the splitter, can I control each one individually, or do any speed adjustments affect all fans indiscriminately?
> 2) I have heard conflicting information on the H220x release. Are you able to disclose a rough timeline for availability (e.g. June/July)?
> 3) Being in the U.S. I cannot access the H320. Are there any plans to bring a 280 mm or 360 mm version here?
> 
> I realize that these questions may have been answered or may seem very naive, and I thank you for giving your time and patience to assist!


The process of replacing the coolant is fairly straight forward. You will have to completely remove the kit and drain it out. You'll then want to flush it with some distilled water by just pouring it into the unit and shaking it a bit. You'll want to do this a couple of times before you refill the kit with coolant just to make sure that it's cleaned out. Then just reinstall the kit and run the pump for a bit without having it attached to the motherboard. You can do this by just using a paper clip to jump the power supply. This way you can top off the radiator and check for leaks without risking damage to any components.

You should use the 8-way splitter to power the pump just to make sure that it receives the constant flow of power needed. This isn't necessary though for the H220X because it uses two connectors for the pump. One is a SATA power connector that will connect directly to the motherboard and the other is the PWM connector to adjust and monitor pump speed. You can use 3-pin fans on our splitter, but they will all run at full speed. The splitter also doesn't have the ability to give individual controls to all of the devices. The way it works is that Channel 1 is only header that provides direct control. All of the other PWM devices will then adjust speeds based on the curve that you set for the Channel 1 device. We have no plans to introduce a 3 x 120mm fan version of this kit because the reservoir and pump will protrude too far into the front optical drive bays. We do have plans for a dual 140mm fan version though. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## ChampN252

Bram, I was on swiftechs site and saw radiators with pumps and reserviors. Is this like the kit, but all the pieces have to be brought? The heat exchange series I believe


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChampN252*
> 
> Bram, I was on swiftechs site and saw radiators with pumps and reserviors. Is this like the kit, but all the pieces have to be brought? The heat exchange series I believe


No, these are quite different. The new kits will have our own in-house designed pumps while the Edge kits have pumps designed by an outsourced company. The placement of the reservoir is also different.


----------



## ChampN252

Okay. So its worth it to wait?


----------



## sdmf74

I just want to say thank you to SWIFTECH, HW Labs and P. PC's. I won a SWIFTECH (APOGEE-XL-FC-ROG ) APOGEE XL cpu block and HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX rad from Performance PC's.
This will help with the costs of my new pump (hint,hint), motherboard and cpu when they get released. I recently expanded my H220 kit and it looks and works great but want to go full custom with my
loop and these parts couldnt have come at a better time. Once I recieve the parts I will let you all know how the cpu block performs. This is the one I chose, It should look great installed. (I'll be using matte black monsoon fittings)


----------



## jbdino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> [SNIP]


Bram, this was very helpful!


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I just want to say thank you to SWIFTECH, HW Labs and P. PC's. I won a SWIFTECH (APOGEE-XL-FC-ROG ) APOGEE XL cpu block and HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX rad from Performance PC's.
> This will help with the costs of my new pump (hint,hint), motherboard and cpu when they get released. I recently expanded my H220 kit and it looks and works great but want to go full custom with my
> loop and these parts couldnt have come at a better time. Once I recieve the parts I will let you all know how the cpu block performs. This is the one I chose, It should look great installed. (I'll be using matte black monsoon fittings)


Woah, congrats man! Your rig should kick serious butt once all the parts are released!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> Bram, this was very helpful!


I'm glad that you found it helpful.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

So if I want to top off my glacer, can I use distilled water or do I have to use the swiftech coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> So if I want to top off my glacer, can I use distilled water or do I have to use the swiftech coolant?


Yes, you'll be fine just using distilled water to top off the coolant in this kit. Distilled water is the main ingredient anyway, so it won't hinder performance.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Thanks, that's what I thought I just wanted to make sure.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Yes I did connect it to the splitter with the same result of high temperatures. It should ge obvious why I connected itto te mb insead of splitter. You have more control that way and can raise fan speeds and pump speed independently.


Your best bet once this is sorted would be to get a second splitter and run the pump on one and the fans on another. Per my openning post, it is STRONGLY recommended that you not run the pump directly off the mobo header for exactly the reason you have found. The extra amps can prematurely kill the mobo header even if it's rated higher than the pump's draw. Adding a second splitter is a very marginal cost ($10) for a much safer setup while still keeping your intentions of adjusting the fans and pump separately.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Your best bet once this is sorted would be to get a second splitter and run the pump on one and the fans on another. Per my openning post, it is STRONGLY recommended that you not run the pump directly off the mobo header for exactly the reason you have found. The extra amps can prematurely kill the mobo header even if it's rated higher than the pump's draw. Adding a second splitter is a very marginal cost ($10) for a much safer setup while still keeping your intentions of adjusting the fans and pump separately.


Thank you for your advice.Got my replacement ROG Crosshair V Formula Z. Yesterday. Won't boot and gives a code 66 error which is memory. I knew the memorywas good, so I had a friend who is an IT tech check it with his own working memory. Same error. He says it is either dimm slot tracers or the cpu memory controller is bad. He says 20 to 1 more likely to be the dimm slots.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thank you for your advice.Got my replacement ROG Crosshair V Formula Z. Yesterday. Won't boot and gives a code 66 error which is memory. I knew the memorywas good, so I had a friend who is an IT tech check it with his own working memory. Same error. He says it is either dimm slot tracers or the cpu memory controller is bad. He says 20 to 1 more likely to be the dimm slots.


Slots, my original CHVFZ had the prob. Most of them have Code 66 boot errors at random times (when restarting).


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Thank you for your advice.Got my replacement ROG Crosshair V Formula Z. Yesterday. Won't boot and gives a code 66 error which is memory. I knew the memorywas good, so I had a friend who is an IT tech check it with his own working memory. Same error. He says it is either dimm slot tracers or the cpu memory controller is bad. He says 20 to 1 more likely to be the dimm slots.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Slots, my original CHVFZ had the prob. Most of them have Code 66 boot errors at random times (when restarting).


Yep, it is a known intermittent issue with all rog boards since x58 times. Try unplugging the power cord for 20 or so seconds and then plug in and start again. If still a no go try one ram at each time to see if boots. If so you can then sort out if indeed are the MB ram slots (and which one) or the cpu or ram module.

hope it helps.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, it is a known intermittent issue with all rog boards since x58 times. Try unplugging the power cord for 20 or so seconds and then plug in and start again. If still a no go try one ram at each time to see if boots. If so you can then sort out if indeed are the MB ram slots (and which one) or the cpu or ram module.
> 
> hope it helps.


I know cutting the PSU power and starting up that way usually does the trick, or just waiting at least 5 minutes to start up again. A while ago (4 months), I tried one DIMM at a time and they are all the same. Anyways, I am never affected by it on my daily usage patterns and its a small price to pay.


----------



## Jawswing

I bought the H220 about two months back, and all has been fine.
I've got the fan splitter connected to CPU_FAN header. The pump connected to the first pins, and four Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans connected to the rest.
I use Asus AI Suite 3 to control fan speeds, and I've got it set to 'quiet' mode. It'll run at more or less the lowest RPM it can most of the time it is in use.

Ever since last week though, I've started hearing a clicking noise, I suppose easiest way to describe it is a similar noise to when you hold paper to a fan and turn it on. When I turn the entire thing to 100%, the noise stops (or it's drowned out because everything is a lot louder then, but I'm sure the noise does go away). And I can hear water gushing about for a few seconds after I've done it. I'd then ramp up back down to silent, and the noise seems to be gone for about 10 minutes and slowly comes back.

I messaged BramSLI1, who suggested putting some dish soap in the coolant and running it at 100% for a few hours (which I'm in the process of doing now). So, hopefully all will be well afterwards, fingers crossed.
However, it got me thinking, could it be the SP120's running off the fan controller?
When I stick my head in the case (don't try that at home). It seems louder when I'm listening from below the pump, rather than above it. But it's something that's crossed my mind that I could maybe tick off the list.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> I bought the H220 about two months back, and all has been fine.
> I've got the fan splitter connected to CPU_FAN header. The pump connected to the first pins, and four Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans connected to the rest.
> I use Asus AI Suite 3 to control fan speeds, and I've got it set to 'quiet' mode. It'll run at more or less the lowest RPM it can most of the time it is in use.
> 
> Ever since last week though, I've started hearing a clicking noise, I suppose easiest way to describe it is a similar noise to when you hold paper to a fan and turn it on. When I turn the entire thing to 100%, the noise stops (or it's drowned out because everything is a lot louder then, but I'm sure the noise does go away). And I can hear water gushing about for a few seconds after I've done it. I'd then ramp up back down to silent, and the noise seems to be gone for about 10 minutes and slowly comes back.
> 
> I messaged BramSLI1, who suggested putting some dish soap in the coolant and running it at 100% for a few hours (which I'm in the process of doing now). So, hopefully all will be well afterwards, fingers crossed.
> However, it got me thinking, could it be the SP120's running off the fan controller?
> When I stick my head in the case (don't try that at home). It seems louder when I'm listening from below the pump, rather than above it. But it's something that's crossed my mind that I could maybe tick off the list.


Yes, it's possible that it could be the fans. To test this just temporarily unplug them to see if the noise goes away.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NUKESHOCK*
> 
> Hey to the swiftech bro who is helping us out, Can I add Another 240 Rad to the H220 loop ?
> 
> Looks like my case can support two 240mm rads , One at the top and one behind the hardrive cages and next to the GPUs, I am running a 7970 crossfire Noth dispel hot air into the case.
> WIll as adding the second 240mm rad to the loop at the Hardrive cages improve the cooling significantly ? So it will be 2 240 rad cooling the CPU ? OR Has like the Waterblock on it reached its max heat disipation and adding another Rad wont matter ? Cuz In singapore here 80c on load is considered good....
> and my 3770k is OCed to 4.5ghz on the X40 it was 88c max on 100% load...
> So im not sure what to do I want to optimize the cooling as much as possible and I got a Guy who wants to sell his 240 rad for $70 SGD which is like 60 USD which is a steal, so will it help ?


Hey,from sg too. I got mine at sgd190.if u want i could pass you the contact.and as bryan has said,it can be expanded,once i get my gpu block in,i'm going to add a 360 rad


----------



## Mstrofdashadows

I looked everywhere for a custom cover for my H220, since i couldn't find any i made my own. It's a work in progress so take it easy on me.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:353238


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mstrofdashadows*
> 
> I looked everywhere for a custom cover for my H220, since i couldn't find any i made my own. It's a work in progress so take it easy on me.
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:353238


Looks nice! keep up the good work..now if only i could get tht cover with black hexagons and red outlines


----------



## ChampN252

I see Fractual Designs released their own AIO. You guy have any part of that?


----------



## Theblackrain

Does anyone know when the H220x coolers will start shipping in Europe.

I have had to RMA my H220 to Bacata and they have told me that they have zero stock of H220 coolers and that they will be replacing mine with a H220x when they get them. It's great that i'm going to be getting the new version but I have no idea if i'm going to be waiting weeks or even months for it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theblackrain*
> 
> Does anyone know when the H220x coolers will start shipping in Europe.
> 
> I have had to RMA my H220 to Bacata and they have told me that they have zero stock of H220 coolers and that they will be replacing mine with a H220x when they get them. It's great that i'm going to be getting the new version but I have no idea if i'm going to be waiting weeks or even months for it.


I'm sorry for this delay. We are still working on some last minute pump improvements and once these are implemented they will be shipped out. I don't currently have an ETA at the moment, but any information regarding these new kits will be posted to our website and Facebook page. I will also do my best to update the information here as well as it becomes available.


----------



## Theblackrain

Thanks for the info. I had read over on the Swiftech forum that they would be shipping at the end of this week but i guess this hasn't happened yet. Hopefully we wont have to wait too long for it, I know a few people who are also very interested in this new cooler.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theblackrain*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I had read over on the Swiftech forum that they would be shipping at the end of this week but i guess this hasn't happened yet. Hopefully we wont have to wait too long for it, I know a few people who are also very interested in this new cooler.


There is quite a bit of interest in them and this is why we want to make absolutely certain that they are every bit as good as we can make them. We want them to perform above expectations and this is the reason for the delay. Our factory is hard at working testing all of the latest changes and revisions that we've made to the design to ensure that they can stand up to the normal rigors of everyday use, and then some. Thank you for your patience and please understand that we are doing everything we can to get these out as soon as possible.


----------



## WanWhiteWolf

Hello,

I am considering H220x or H320 for my just-made build. However, H320 does not seem to be available and H220x is not yet released. I live in Germany,

Is there any way I can get one of the above kits in the next week..or max two? This is how much I can hold with the stock cooler...

Thank you.


----------



## Emu105

Just got my h220 and I love it only thing is how do I adjust the pump speed and the fan speeds. Also I connected the pump to the red lil slot and the fans on the black slots is that the right way? Thanks once again. I love this thing is so silent compare to the h100i !


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Just got my h220 and I love it only thing is how do I adjust the pump speed and the fan speeds. Also I connected the pump to the red lil slot and the fans on the black slots is that the right way? Thanks once again. I love this thing is so silent compare to the h100i !


Yes, that's the right way to have it connected and powered. Since you have it connected this way I assume you're using your CPU fan header to control it. That means that you'll therefore use your motherboard's software to set the PWM curve based on how you want it to ramp up or down based on CPU temperature. You can't control the connected devices separately. The way this will work is that all of the fans will ramp up or down based on the same curve that you set for the pump. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Just got my h220 and I love it only thing is how do I adjust the pump speed and the fan speeds. Also I connected the pump to the red lil slot and the fans on the black slots is that the right way? Thanks once again. I love this thing is so silent compare to the h100i !
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's the right way to have it connected and powered. Since you have it connected this way I assume you're using your CPU fan header to control it. That means that you'll therefore use your motherboard's software to set the PWM curve based on how you want it to ramp up or down based on CPU temperature. You can't control the connected devices separately. The way this will work is that all of the fans will ramp up or down based on the same curve that you set for the pump. I hope this answers your question.
Click to expand...

Yes it sure did. Thanks man! Also i heard a but of a buzz noise when the pump gets louder I guess I might have air bubbles?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Yes it sure did. Thanks man! Also i heard a but of a buzz noise when the pump gets louder I guess I might have air bubbles?


buzzing generally is just the pump at high speeds, bubbles make a weird waterfall kind of trickly noise.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Yes it sure did. Thanks man! Also i heard a but of a buzz noise when the pump gets louder I guess I might have air bubbles?
> 
> 
> 
> buzzing generally is just the pump at high speeds, bubbles make a weird waterfall kind of trickly noise.
Click to expand...

Oh ok thank you well still silent compare to the h100i !


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> buzzing generally is just the pump at high speeds, bubbles make a weird waterfall kind of trickly noise.


bubbles could also make weird,scary noises....you'd swear that your impeller was grinding something


----------



## dmasteR

Anyone know if the H220 will fit in a Corsair 650D without modding? I can't seem to find a solid answer.

Thanks.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Anyone know if the H220 will fit in a Corsair 650D without modding? I can't seem to find a solid answer.
> 
> Thanks.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/140_20#post_19486200


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/140_20#post_19486200


Doesn't mention anything about modding, which is specifically what I'm asking.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Doesn't mention anything about modding, which is specifically what I'm asking.


Looks stock to me...judging by the corsair specs looks like it would fit for sure. Maybe ask in the 650d club as well?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Looks stock to me...judging by the corsair specs looks like it would fit for sure. Maybe ask in the 650d club as well?


Thanks, completely forgot about that thread.









I've just seen a bunch of people mentioning they needed to modify the holes/drill in new holes.


----------



## sdmf74

What is the RPM of the upcoming MCP50X pump? I forgot


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that's the right way to have it connected and powered. Since you have it connected this way I assume you're using your CPU fan header to control it. That means that you'll therefore use your motherboard's software to set the PWM curve based on how you want it to ramp up or down based on CPU temperature. You can't control the connected devices separately. The way this will work is that all of the fans will ramp up or down based on the same curve that you set for the pump. I hope this answers your question.


Did all the splitters ship with one red capped slot? My splitter which cam with my H320 late August did not have a red cap, all were black.


----------



## imp0st3r

I will be buying the CM glacier 240L.i have to take the pump off to get the radiator in the correct spot on my case (Corsair 500R),do I need to buy any sealer or anything for when I put it back together?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imp0st3r*
> 
> I will be buying the CM glacier 240L.i have to take the pump off to get the radiator in the correct spot on my case (Corsair 500R),do I need to buy any sealer or anything for when I put it back together?


Nope it's a straight forward reassembly, just put the tubing back over the barbs and re-tighten the compression clamps with a smaller head philips or flat head and you're good to go


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that's the right way to have it connected and powered. Since you have it connected this way I assume you're using your CPU fan header to control it. That means that you'll therefore use your motherboard's software to set the PWM curve based on how you want it to ramp up or down based on CPU temperature. You can't control the connected devices separately. The way this will work is that all of the fans will ramp up or down based on the same curve that you set for the pump. I hope this answers your question.
> 
> 
> 
> Did all the splitters ship with one red capped slot? My splitter which cam with my H320 late August did not have a red cap, all were black.
Click to expand...

all it does is mark ch1 which has its rpm monitored


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> What is the RPM of the upcoming MCP50X pump? I forgot


I think it's going to be about 4500 RPM. I'll try to confirm that when our engineer gets in this morning.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Did all the splitters ship with one red capped slot? My splitter which cam with my H320 late August did not have a red cap, all were black.


\

Some may not have come with red caps, but it should still be clearly labeled as channel 1 above the header.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

So I think my glacer that I bought back in December killed my computer. It was working fine yesterday then when I tried starting it up I have no video. I looked and noticed that the block area was leaking.


----------



## cephelix

Did the coolant leal onto any other parts??


----------



## wh0kn0ws

It leaked from the left side onto the Southbridge. It was put on an amd machine, so the rig in my sig isn't it. The tubes are dry, so it must be leaking from the block. It also leaked on my gpus and my ssd since its at the bottom of the case


----------



## cephelix

ssds should be an issue. do check thoroughly if it leaked onto any connectors or PCBs....


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I disassembled everything so it can dry out. Is the coolant conductive?


----------



## cephelix

anything will become conductive...but if u air it out properly and dry it out before starting, then it should be ok...i dont know what you can do to remove any residue though....


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Hmm, ok. Thanks


----------



## sdmf74

Hey Brian are you guys working on a Maelstrom 5 1/4" Dual Bay Reservoir or any other bay res' for the elusive MCP50X???
I really do not want to have to drain my loop twice back to back so I am hoping to coordinate my new mobo,cpu, apogee-XL and HL Labs 360GTX Rad with your new pump and bay res but if you are just gonna release the pump eventually without any compatible bay reservouirs at the same time then I may have to .
My new mobo (M7F) wont be out till July


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey Brian are you guys working on a Maelstrom 5 1/4" Dual Bay Reservoir or any other bay res' for the elusive MCP50X???
> I really do not want to have to drain my loop twice back to back so I am hoping to coordinate my new mobo,cpu, apogee-XL and HL Labs 360GTX Rad with your new pump and bay res but if you are just gonna release the pump eventually without any compatible bay reservouirs at the same time then I may have to .
> My new mobo (M7F) wont be out till July


I'm pretty sure the upcoming Maelstrom 2.0 will have MCP50X compatible variants.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey Brian are you guys working on a Maelstrom 5 1/4" Dual Bay Reservoir or any other bay res' for the elusive MCP50X???
> I really do not want to have to drain my loop twice back to back so I am hoping to coordinate my new mobo,cpu, apogee-XL and HL Labs 360GTX Rad with your new pump and bay res but if you are just gonna release the pump eventually without any compatible bay reservouirs at the same time then I may have to .
> My new mobo (M7F) wont be out till July


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the upcoming Maelstrom 2.0 will have MCP50X compatible variants.


That is correct. The new Maelstrom 2.0 will have support for our new MCP50X.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Does anyone know what cooler masters warranty is if the cooler leaks and kills the mobo, cpu and video cards?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone know what cooler masters warranty is if the cooler leaks and kills the mobo, cpu and video cards?


How long did you have it before it leaked and did you expand or modify this kit in any way?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Bought it back in December of 2013. I never modified it, I just opened the fill hole to see if I needed to top it off. It worked fine on my i5 rig, then two days ago I moved it to an amd rig. It worked fine for one day, then it leaked over the components yesterday.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone know what cooler masters warranty is if the cooler leaks and kills the mobo, cpu and video cards?


Contact the in house representative. Drop him a PM. They should take care of your case specially if you never touch or disassemble the thing.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/9940#post_22196591

Here is a post of the Hardware rep.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Bought it back in December of 2013. I never modified it, I just opened the fill hole to see if I needed to top it off. It worked fine on my i5 rig, then two days ago I moved it to an amd rig. It worked fine for one day, then it leaked over the components yesterday.


OK, in that case it's entirely possible that during the course of moving it that one of the barbs was twisted too far and broke. I've actually done this myself when when working on repairing these kits. If you aren't careful with the barbs they will break. I find this to be very likely since it didn't leak prior to being moved to the new rig. Also, if it's found that the leak is coming from one of the barbs then this likely won't be covered under the warranty.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

The tubes are dry, it looked like it was leaking from the block.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> The tubes are dry, it looked like it was leaking from the block.


That's very strange because these are pressure tested and vacuum filled prior to shipping. It would be a first to see one of these leak from somewhere other than a broken fitting. I think we had a couple that leaked during shipping due to some extreme cold weather, but certainly not after the unit had been running for several months. Please PM me about this because I'm very interested in how this could have occurred.


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone know what cooler masters warranty is if the cooler leaks and kills the mobo, cpu and video cards?


Hello wh0kn0ws,

I apologize for the trouble with your Glacer. Can you please reply to the PM that I sent you.

Respectfully,
Patrick
CMUSA Support


----------



## Jugurnot

Thats not good news @wh0kn0ws









I finally expanded my loop to include my recently acquired titan. I added an EK 150 tube res and an RX120 rad. The HAF XB and h220 pump created a very unique challenge, but I am satisfied how it turned out.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is correct. The new Maelstrom 2.0 will have support for our new MCP50X.


Any info on Maelstrom 2.0 specifically a release date?
Also do you think I should consider a *dual* pump Maelstrom bay res? I am waiting for the new MCP50X and have a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX Dual-Core rad and Alphacool monsta 240, 1 GPU and Apogee xl cpu block. I dont think I will be using the H220 rad anymore unless I get a new case. Thanx in advance


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Any info on Maelstrom 2.0 specifically a release date?
> Also do you think I should consider a *dual* pump Maelstrom bay res? I am waiting for the new MCP50X and have a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX Dual-Core rad and Alphacool monsta 240, 1 GPU and Apogee xl cpu block. I dont think I will be using the H220 rad anymore unless I get a new case. Thanx in advance


The new Maelstrom will come out with the new pumps. I don't have a solid ETA as of right now, but I should have the definite ETA by the end of the week. Being that these are going to be compatible with our new pumps we'd prefer to release them together.


----------



## M3TAl

Can't wait for MCP50x and Maelstorm, only problem is I'm broke







. Will be waiting a little longer.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Any info on Maelstrom 2.0 specifically a release date?
> Also do you think I should consider a *dual* pump Maelstrom bay res? I am waiting for the new MCP50X and have a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX Dual-Core rad and Alphacool monsta 240, 1 GPU and Apogee xl cpu block. I dont think I will be using the H220 rad anymore unless I get a new case. Thanx in advance


Dual pumps is nice for redundancy, but one MCP50X won't even sweat at that workload







. I ran my single MCP35x through two blocks, bay res and dual 480mm rads without issue, most of the time at about 2000-2500 rpm.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guy's
Can I change my radiator on the h320 and use a thicker one? Or do I need to keep it as it's got the reservoir

Cheers


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guy's
> Can I change my radiator on the h320 and use a thicker one? Or do I need to keep it as it's got the reservoir
> 
> Cheers


if you have an external reservoir, then there is no problem with switching out the stock rad.
If you don't then it makes it difficult to trap air bubbles when the liquid level in the loop gets lower


----------



## sdmf74

@ Phelan thanx thats what I figured just wanted confirmation


----------



## Phelan

No prob


----------



## EarlZ

A few days ago my H220 started to make a loud vibrating noise, on speeds anything past 50%. At first I thought it was just one of those air bubbles trapped as titling my PC would make the pump produce a water flowing noise for a few seconds then back with the vibrating noise. 4 hours ago I started to troubleshoot the kit and no amount of tilting helped so I added 3 drops of dish soap and redid the steps and still nothing, so I got a gallon of distilled water and decided to drain the loop, cleaned it and topped it off again I am still getting the same noise, this is already the replacement pump swiftech sent me and it was working perfectly fine for the last few months and I didnt move the PC at all. This is quite frustrating


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> A few days ago my H220 started to make a loud vibrating noise, on speeds anything past 50%. At first I thought it was just one of those air bubbles trapped as titling my PC would make the pump produce a water flowing noise for a few seconds then back with the vibrating noise. 4 hours ago I started to troubleshoot the kit and no amount of tilting helped so I added 3 drops of dish soap and redid the steps and still nothing, so I got a gallon of distilled water and decided to drain the loop, cleaned it and topped it off again I am still getting the same noise, this is already the replacement pump swiftech sent me and it was working perfectly fine for the last few months and I didnt move the PC at all. This is quite frustrating


Keep me posted and let me know if the noise doesn't subside in the next couple of days.


----------



## Ludi

Hey!
I got my H220 last january and I've limited myself to lurk this thread.

I've been having the exact same issue Earlz has, but I haven't sent it for replacement. Just wanted to know if it's better to RMA it or is it easy to fix it by a first-time AIO user?

Edit: also does this damages the pump if I don't send it ASAP? Sorry for the newbie questions


----------



## EarlZ

Assumed its a not bubble and RMAing wont really cost you much just RMA it instead. IMHO.


----------



## AdamMT

EarlZ, I was having the same experience, and this with my THIRD H220 unit. The first was DOA. The pump intermittently cut out in the second. And after something like six months the pump on the third started to make a racket. I'm sure Swiftech would have taken care of it as their support is terrific, but I'm afraid that the product just isn't reliable. I bagged it and bought an H100i. I'm glad I made the change. It cools just as well as the H220 and with SP120 fans it's also about as quiet.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> EarlZ, I was having the same experience, and this with my THIRD H220 unit. The first was DOA. The pump intermittently cut out in the second. And after something like six months the pump on the third started to make a racket. I'm sure Swiftech would have taken care of it as their support is terrific, but I'm afraid that the product just isn't reliable. I bagged it and bought an H100i. I'm glad I made the change. It cools just as well as the H220 and with SP120 fans it's also about as quiet.


I fully agree that the customer support is top notch, I'll give it one more since Bram will send a new pump when the new ones come out. I hope that will fully resolve permanently.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> EarlZ, I was having the same experience, and this with my THIRD H220 unit. The first was DOA. The pump intermittently cut out in the second. And after something like six months the pump on the third started to make a racket. I'm sure Swiftech would have taken care of it as their support is terrific, but I'm afraid that the product just isn't reliable. I bagged it and bought an H100i. I'm glad I made the change. It cools just as well as the H220 and with SP120 fans it's also about as quiet.


If you put those same fans on the Swiftech it would cool better than the H100i as well as be quieter than it. I can't argue about reliability as that may be problematical, but your claim the H100i cools as well is not proven by the professional testing that has been done. The H100i may give you a better comfort level but is not as an effective cooler as the H220.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> If you put those same fans on the Swiftech it would cool better than the H100i as well as be quieter than it. I can't argue about reliability as that may be problematical, but your claim the H100i cools as well is not proven by the professional testing that has been done. The H100i may give you a better comfort level but is not as an effective cooler as the H220.


All I can tell you is that it cools almost exactly the same on my machine (i7 @ 4.7ghz) as the H220, both with the stock fans and with the SP120s. Obviously the H220 has the advantage of being expandable, but that's not an issue for me. Also, because of my case I had to mount the H220 rad upside down which is a problem if there's any air at all in the system.


----------



## EarlZ

I've seen the comparison on martins liquid labs and it shows that the H220 is about 2c better with the same fans used, but please dont quote me on the numbers just check on the graphs as I may have misunderstood it. But I personally believe that the H220 is a better performer as the heat load increases but thast just IMHO.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> All I can tell you is that it cools almost exactly the same on my machine (i7 @ 4.7ghz) as the H220, both with the stock fans and with the SP120s. Obviously the H220 has the advantage of being expandable, but that's not an issue for me. Also, because of my case I had to mount the H220 rad upside down which is a problem if there's any air at all in the system.


The issue of your radiator is your case has been measured and found wanting, not the Swiftech. If you had better airflow in your case I suspect the superiority of the Swiftech product would manifest itself more clearly. In any case best of luck.


----------



## AdamMT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The issue of your radiator is your case has been measured and found wanting, not the Swiftech. If you had better airflow in your case I suspect the superiority of the Swiftech product would manifest itself more clearly. In any case best of luck.


Nothing wrong with the airflow in my case, for the record. It's a Fractal R4. I've got a 140mm exhaust fan (stock) two140mm intake fans (one stock and one Noctua), plus the two 120mm rad fans as intake. I had another 140mm intake but it just added a bit of noise without lowering temps.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> All I can tell you is that it cools almost exactly the same on my machine (i7 @ 4.7ghz) as the H220, both with the stock fans and with the SP120s. Obviously the H220 has the advantage of being expandable, but that's not an issue for me. Also, because of my case I had to mount the H220 rad upside down which is a problem if there's any air at all in the system.


Thanks for the information.


----------



## Blackops_2

Thinking i'm going to put my 8320 + 7970 on my Glacer 240L, might be getting a 7970 CSQ block and backplate for 90$







. Anyhow thinking i'm going use my MCR 320 quiet edition in the top of this 450D and the 240mm rad that comes with the 240L in the front of the case. The h220/240L block pump should handle this just fine temp wise right? It's probably somewhere around 400W worth of heat.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Thinking i'm going to put my 8320 + 7970 on my Glacer 240L, might be getting a 7970 CSQ block and backplate for 90$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyhow thinking i'm going use my MCR 320 quiet edition in the top of this 450D and the 240mm rad that comes with the 240L in the front of the case. The h220/240L block pump should handle this just fine temp wise right? It's probably somewhere around 400W worth of heat.


The block/ pump should be able to handle that just fine. You will need to make sure though that the reservoir on the 240L radiator is at the top so that air won't get trapped in the pump or the top radiator. You might want to considering adding a dedicated reservoir though if you can't position the reservoir at the top of the 240L radiator. Just something to consider.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The block/ pump should be able to handle that just fine. You will need to make sure though that the reservoir on the 240L radiator is at the top so that air won't get trapped in the pump or the top radiator. You might want to considering adding a dedicated reservoir though if you can't position the reservoir at the top of the 240L radiator. Just something to consider.


Oh yeah i already have a bitspower 150ml reservoir picked out. This should allow me to bleed the pump more easily right? I'll have the 320 up top the and 240 rad that came with the glacer in the front.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Oh yeah i already have a bitspower 150ml reservoir picked out. This should allow me to bleed the pump more easily right? I'll have the 320 up top the and 240 rad that came with the glacer in the front.


That sounds like it should work fine. Let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## Blackops_2

Will do Bram







as always thanks for the support.

I was wondering has Swiftech or any partners ever considered acrylic tops for the h220? Or the apogee II?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Will do Bram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as always thanks for the support.
> 
> I was wondering has Swiftech or any partners ever considered acrylic tops for the h220? Or the apogee II?


No, not to my knowledge. We do have a clear top though for our new Apogee XL water block. Those will be available in the next week or so.


----------



## criznit

Thanks Bryan for all your assistance! I'm the guy that called about his pump issue. I will send you the info as soon as possible


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criznit*
> 
> Thanks Bryan for all your assistance! I'm the guy that called about his pump issue. I will send you the info as soon as possible


No problem. I'm sorry that I wasn't able to resolve it easily for you, but we'll get you taken care of.


----------



## JackieTran

I just bought the h220.

When I plugged it in I checked on speedfan and it said the rpm was at 3000. Is this right? because the pump wasn't powerful at all


----------



## Kaisei

I just started having the CPU_FAN Error this morning. Went to work and came back to the same error.

Info:
ASUS P8Z77-LK
Splitter plugged into CPU_FAN, Pump plugged into CH1, 7 fans total.
Connected to SATA power, same effects on second PSU
Idle tempts float around 55-70c (Normal 28-35c)
Monitor tab in BIOS shows N/A for CPU_FAN

Any help?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamMT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> The issue of your radiator is your case has been measured and found wanting, not the Swiftech. If you had better airflow in your case I suspect the superiority of the Swiftech product would manifest itself more clearly. In any case best of luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with the airflow in my case, for the record. It's a Fractal R4. I've got a 140mm exhaust fan (stock) two140mm intake fans (one stock and one Noctua), plus the two 120mm rad fans as intake. I had another 140mm intake but it just added a bit of noise without lowering temps.
Click to expand...

Why does everyone think size matters? You need good fans. Not 140s. ( on mobile can not see your rig. )

They do make some Ok 140 fans. But (when I say everyone I do mean everyone) everyone assumes 140 is better then 120 and a fan is a fan. .. this is not true. You can read up more on what's a good fan on martinsliquidlab
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I just bought the h220.
> 
> When I plugged it in I checked on speedfan and it said the rpm was at 3000. Is this right? because the pump wasn't powerful at all


How did you come to the assumption that the pump is not powerful?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I just bought the h220.
> 
> When I plugged it in I checked on speedfan and it said the rpm was at 3000. Is this right? because the pump wasn't powerful at all


Yes that is the normal max. speed.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes that is the normal max. speed.


out of the box it is max speed?


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why does everyone think size matters? You need good fans. Not 140s. ( on mobile can not see your rig. )
> 
> They do make some Ok 140 fans. But (when I say everyone I do mean everyone) everyone assumes 140 is better then 120 and a fan is a fan. .. this is not true. You can read up more on what's a good fan on martinsliquidlab
> How did you come to the assumption that the pump is not powerful?


I've open the cap the water was pretty still. Pumps like the mcp 655 and 35x, from what I've seen on youtube, the water in the reservoirs move alot more


----------



## Mega Man

That is a really bad test tbh. I on on mobile atm but if I get home in a reasonable time ( still at work ) I'll see what Infos I can dig up for you


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I've open the cap the water was pretty still. Pumps like the mcp 655 and 35x, from what I've seen on youtube, the water in the reservoirs move alot more


Well,the pump is strong.it can easily handle expansion to add more rads and blocks.there is a video on youtube from swiftech tht shows how to expand the original setup and many ppl here have expanded the loops with no loss in performance at all. And the pump at full tilt runs at ard 3000rpm give or take.most of us run it 1.2k -1.8k rpm which is about 20% pwm in speedfan.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> out of the box it is max speed?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I've open the cap the water was pretty still. Pumps like the mcp 655 and 35x, from what I've seen on youtube, the water in the reservoirs move alot more


Yes, that is the max rpm speed for this pump. The cap on the reservoir is not a test of the flow. (if I recall there is not much apparent flow there just looking at it). The pump do have plenty of power to go through the block don't worry. You can actually down the pump up to 2000 or even less without problem. The whole kit is highly restrictive apparently and it has to do with the rad/barbs as Martins showed in his test. In any case connect the kt through the spliter with the pump in cha 1 and that connected to the pu fan header.

hope it helps.


----------



## Sand3853

Hello, I am sorry if this has been asked before... been looking around for days for the answer... Anyways, my H220 block/pump isn't going to be able to fit my new ITX board (barbs stick out over ram slot or pci slot) and I am going to have to get a new waterblock to fit. I was planning on using the H220 block as the pump, and so am curious if you can remove the pump from the housing, and use it with something like the swiftech mcp335x reservoir or an EK top. Again, sorry if this has been asked... watercooling novice here...


----------



## Mega Man

No it won't. Sorry.

However you can just put it as is and it would work. Or you can wait soon the new pump and kit should be released and you can either but the bay res or pump top and use it that way


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No it won't. Sorry.
> 
> However you can just put it as is and it would work. Or you can wait soon the new pump and kit should be released and you can either but the bay res or pump top and use it that way


That's what I was thinking.....lol... I'll probably still use it as is. Been great for me. I guess i'll end up making an acrylic base, in order to keep the copper block safe


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I just bought the h220.
> 
> When I plugged it in I checked on speedfan and it said the rpm was at 3000. Is this right? because the pump wasn't powerful at all


The pump is moving plenty of water at 3000 rpm. Opening the full cap isn't going to show it though as that is the reservoir portion which, by design, doesn't get much water flow. If the H220 is not expanded, you could run it at the minimum speed (0%, aka 1200 RPMs) and see very little performance difference.

If you just plugged it in and it's running 3000 RPMs however, your mobo either doesn't support PWM or you don't have the pump hooked up correctly. Even though you can theoretically run the pump off the CPU_FAN header without issue, don't do it. We have found in this thread that it is NOT without issue. Motherboards have burnt up because they can't handle the substantially larger load of the 6 w pump running off the fan traces, and pumps have burnt up because there wasn't a consistent flow of 12v power. Plug the pump into channel one of the splitter and the splitter into the CPU_FAN header. If you already have done this, then the motherboard header is not modulating via PWM, either because it's not supported or it's not set right in the BIOS. 99.9% of motherboards only support PWM modulation on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The pump is moving plenty of water at 3000 rpm. Opening the full cap isn't going to show it though as that is the reservoir portion which, by design, doesn't get much water flow. If the H220 is not expanded, you could run it at the minimum speed (0%, aka 1200 RPMs) and see very little performance difference.
> 
> If you just plugged it in and it's running 3000 RPMs however, your mobo either doesn't support PWM or you don't have the pump hooked up correctly. Even though you can theoretically run the pump off the CPU_FAN header without issue, don't do it. We have found in this thread that it is NOT without issue. Motherboards have burnt up because they can't handle the substantially larger load of the 6 w pump running off the fan traces, and pumps have burnt up because there wasn't a consistent flow of 12v power. Plug the pump into channel one of the splitter and the splitter into the CPU_FAN header. If you already have done this, then the motherboard header is not modulating via PWM, either because it's not supported or it's not set right in the BIOS. 99.9% of motherboards only support PWM modulation on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers.


Yeah, I didn't plug it in the splitter. So when I plug it in the splitter, can the fans plugged in also be controlled?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Yeah, I didn't plug it in the splitter. So when I plug it in the splitter, can the fans plugged in also be controlled?


Yes, the fans will just run at the same PWM curve that you set for the pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Yeah, I didn't plug it in the splitter. So when I plug it in the splitter, can the fans plugged in also be controlled?


Yes they will follow the pump curve. So if you are running pump at 40% the fans will also spin at 40%. Of course, since the rpm of fans and pump differ the pump might report 1800 rpm while fans will be at 900 rpm for example (just to give you an idea not the exact numbers)


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes they will follow the pump curve. So if you are running pump at 40% the fans will also spin at 40%. Of course, since the rpm of fans and pump differ the pump might report 1800 rpm while fans will be at 900 rpm for example (just to give you an idea not the exact numbers)


What if I want the pump rpm to stay the same but the fans to have a curve? I dont think ill ever want my pump at 100%


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> What if I want the pump rpm to stay the same but the fans to have a curve? I dont think ill ever want my pump at 100%


if you want to decouple pump and fans curves you need to place the fans on another mb header capable of PWM (if you are using the helix fans) which usually is the additional cpu fan header. You can not have different curves for pump and fans on the splitter and only ch one of the spitter have the ability to report rpm and adjust curve (the others just follow). But I can not stress enough the set up of ypur pump via splitter on the the cpu fan header. Do not use the kit connected directly to the mb fan header. Is for your own safety.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> What if I want the pump rpm to stay the same but the fans to have a curve? I dont think ill ever want my pump at 100%


This has come up a couple times. Because of the need to run the pump on the splitter, if you need/want to modulate the fans from the motherboard separately from the pump, the way to do it is to get a SECOND splitter to put the fans. They are cheap enough ($10) that this is not only the only viable solution, it is also still economical.

The other thing to note is that if the pump is plugged into the header directly and is running at 3000 RPM, there's a good chance it is not modulation via PWM, which *WILL* kill your pump eventually. *IMMEDIATELY* plug it into the splitter to avoid damage to the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> This has come up a couple times. Because of the need to run the pump on the splitter, if you need/want to modulate the fans from the motherboard separately from the pump, the way to do it is to get a SECOND splitter to put the fans. They are cheap enough ($10) that this is not only the only viable solution, it is also still economical.
> 
> The other thing to note is that if the pump is plugged into the header directly and is running at 3000 RPM, there's a good chance it is not modulation via PWM, which *WILL* kill your pump eventually. *IMMEDIATELY* plug it into the splitter to avoid damage to the pump.


That's not quite accurate. If the header keeps the pump at 3000 RPM and doesn't allow for adjustment, that isn't an issue. That is so long as you don't mind that it's running at 100% the whole time. The issue is that some fan headers will attempt to mimic PWM control through voltage. This is what could eventually kill the pump.

The best way to test this would be to use our splitter on the header first to see if you have control over the devices attached to it. If you don't then it's a voltage regulated header and you shouldn't use it to adjust the speed on your pump. I hope this clarifies things.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's not quite accurate. If the header keeps the pump at 3000 RPM and doesn't allow for adjustment, that isn't an issue. That is so long as you mind that it's running at 100% the whole time. The issue is that some fan headers will attempt to mimic PWM control through voltage. This is what could eventually kill the pump.
> 
> The best way to test this would be to use our splitter on the header first to see if you have control over the devices attached to it. If you don't then it's a voltage regulated header and you shouldn't use it to adjust the speed on your pump. I hope this clarifies things.


Speedfan looks abit complicated for a noob like me. Are there any other pwm control software that you would recommend?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Speedfan looks abit complicated for a noob like me. Are there any other pwm control software that you would recommend?


That's actually the best one out there. You could also try using the software that came with your motherboard. In most cases though they only tend to give very limited control.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Speedfan looks abit complicated for a noob like me. Are there any other pwm control software that you would recommend?


what is your mb? If it is asus you have fanxpert that can be used.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what is your mb? If it is asus you have fanxpert that can be used.


Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Z68


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Z68


You're better off using speed fan. I have a Gigabyte board as well and their software is horrible. At least that was my experience.


----------



## shanker

H220 head in an InWin 901.


----------



## babycharm00

i just order my h320 yesterday, hopefully be here on monday to mount on to my CM 932. im excited, i can get better cooling on HOT!!! i7-960.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> H220 head in an InWin 901.


Wow! You did some nice modding there to get it to fit. What are you temperatures like?


----------



## shanker

Thanks! With the Impact motherboard and audio card it only goes in one way but it works just fine! after an hour of Wolfenstein at 1440P the cores hit between 48-51C according to Core-Temp and mid 40s running the Valley bench at stock clocks.

I'm waiting for a legit video card upgrade before overclocking as I'm gpu bound anyway.


----------



## AMW1011

Been looking into the H220, but the pump failure issues have really scared me away. What is the deal with those? Can they be explained by user/install error or are the pumps unreliable?


----------



## Mega Man

i have yet to have a single problem i wouldnt worry too much, but i would wait till the h220x !!


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you want to decouple pump and fans curves you need to place the fans on another mb header capable of PWM (if you are using the helix fans) which usually is the additional cpu fan header.


Running the fans off of the other cpu fan header (cpu opt.) will not offer seperate curves/adjustments as the cpu opt. header runs off of the cpu header. This is the case with Asus motherboards, not sure if gigabyte or msi is different though.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMW1011*
> 
> Been looking into the H220, but the pump failure issues have really scared me away. What is the deal with those? Can they be explained by user/install error or are the pumps unreliable?


This is basically a support thread, and as such many people on several forums, like myself, tell anybody and everybody that has issues to post in this thread. By reading this thread you're basically reading about the 3% that have issues.


----------



## Thrasher1016

I'm not sure why I'm not on the list, but to iterate my ownership of the lovely and charming 240L, here it is...



Yeah I know it barely looks like itself, but the heart and head are there, sorta like Robocop.









Thanks - T


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Running the fans off of the other cpu fan header (cpu opt.) will not offer seperate curves/adjustments as the cpu opt. header runs off of the cpu header. This is the case with Asus motherboards, not sure if gigabyte or msi is different though.


You are 100% correct. I have been for so long now using a fan controller unit that I forgot that in Asus boards cpu_fan and cpu_opt are linked. Thks for reminding me and correcting my previous info.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Z68


Then I think you can not decouple the fans from pump using different headers because the only PWM fan in your board is the cpu_fan header. Furthermore there are not many PWM capable fan controllers out there...


----------



## RedBeaver

Joined this forum just to be part of this awesome club.










Looking forward to adding this baby to my new 250D build. Planning to start off standard but eventually adding a 140mm rad to the front and a VGA block. Also replacing the tube with something prettier.... clear with red dye or UV or something.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Joined this forum just to be part of this awesome club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to adding this baby to my new 250D build. Planning to start off standard but eventually adding a 140mm rad to the front and a VGA block. Also replacing the tube with something prettier.... clear with red dye or UV or something.


Welcome aboard!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Joined this forum just to be part of this awesome club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to adding this baby to my new 250D build. Planning to start off standard but eventually adding a 140mm rad to the front and a VGA block. Also replacing the tube with something prettier.... clear with red dye or UV or something.


Just a word of advice. Some of those dyes have issues. I ran a blood red dye for about 6 months and found that it had clogged my CPU block and left residue all throughout my loop. You're better off using colored tubing, distilled water, and a biocide than using a dye. That's my







and welcome to the club.


----------



## Julsmba

I need to change the tubing on my loop.
Can the H220 handle rigid tubing?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> I need to change the tubing on my loop.
> Can the H220 handle rigid tubing?


I dont see how the tubing would fit the barbs on the rad and pump/block combo.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> I need to change the tubing on my loop.
> Can the H220 handle rigid tubing?


rigid tubing requires parts to have g1/4 threads for specialized compression fittings. the H220 uses barbs entirely.


----------



## cephelix

And do note that tge barbs cannot be replaced


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Joined this forum just to be part of this awesome club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to adding this baby to my new 250D build. Planning to start off standard but eventually adding a 140mm rad to the front and a VGA block. Also replacing the tube with something prettier.... clear with red dye or UV or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a word of advice. Some of those dyes have issues. I ran a blood red dye for about 6 months and found that it had clogged my CPU block and left residue all throughout my loop. You're better off using colored tubing, distilled water, and a biocide than using a dye. That's my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and welcome to the club.
Click to expand...

correct!

basically the dyes are made by dissolving solids which eventually separate ~!

see here
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Julsmba*
> 
> I need to change the tubing on my loop.
> Can the H220 handle rigid tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see how the tubing would fit the barbs on the rad and pump/block combo.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> And do note that tge barbs cannot be replaced


correct !


----------



## RedBeaver

Thank you for the welcome!

Yes, dyes perhaps not my choice. it's just not that easy to find good source of WC parts here in Canada. i would prefer red tubes with clear water as well.

I think my biggest challenge is disassembling the H220 to replace the parts... It's been too many years since I've dabbled with liquid. There wouldn't be any simple guide anywhere, would it....?


----------



## Mega Man

i always recommend martinsliquidlab even though he has retired great infos ( check the misc tab, all but the brand specific stuffs )


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Thank you for the welcome!
> 
> Yes, dyes perhaps not my choice. it's just not that easy to find good source of WC parts here in Canada. i would prefer red tubes with clear water as well.
> 
> I think my biggest challenge is disassembling the H220 to replace the parts... It's been too many years since I've dabbled with liquid. There wouldn't be any simple guide anywhere, would it....?


We did a video that shows how to expand the kit to include a water cooled graphics card. You can find it here 



.


----------



## JackieTran

I have a fan with a broken fin, is that still covered under warranty and if so, do I just send back the fan or the complete kit?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I have a fan with a broken fin, is that still covered under warranty and if so, do I just send back the fan or the complete kit?


If it broke during installation or user error, then no, it isn't covered. If it broke during shipping then you'd have to contact the reseller to get assistance with a shipping claim. Being that all of these are inspected prior to shipping I really can't see how it would arrive you in that condition, however, if it was damaged prior to shipping we can just send you a replacement fan.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If it broke during installation or user error, then no, it isn't covered. If it broke during shipping then you'd have to contact the reseller to get assistance with a shipping claim. Being that all of these are inspected prior to shipping I really can't see how it would arrive you in that condition, however, if it was damaged prior to shipping we can just send you a replacement fan.


If I use superglue, will it affect the longevity of the item?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> If I use superglue, will it affect the longevity of the item?


That won't work. I've tried that myself with a fan that I broke. The problem is that it will be out of balance and will make a lot noise due to the vibrations. It also won't last very long.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That won't work. I've tried that myself with a fan that I broke. The problem is that it will be out of balance and will make a lot noise due to the vibrations. It also won't last very long.


The fin has not completely broken off, its about too and is loose. When it spins, I'm assuming the air is pushing it up to make it touch the edge. If I superglue it now, while its still in balance, would it be effective?


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> The fin has not completely broken off, its about too and is loose. When it spins, I'm assuming the air is pushing it up to make it touch the edge. If I superglue it now, while its still in balance, would it be effective?


No, because it's the WEIGHT of the glue that would affect the balance. You'd have to add exactly the same amount of weight to the opposite side of the fan, and at exactly the same distance away from the center hub.

Think getting your tires balanced. Same principle.


----------



## zila

Not to mention the risk you are taking if that blade decides to fly off of that fan. It could cause damage to the cooler or any other components that it may hit. Not worth the risk if you ask me.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I say take the $12 loss and buy a new fan.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i always recommend martinsliquidlab even though he has retired great infos ( check the misc tab, all but the brand specific stuffs )


retired?when did this happen?who am i gonna go to for fan reviews and the like?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> retired?when did this happen?who am i gonna go to for fan reviews and the like?


I don't think he's fully retired. I do know from watching his YouTube channel though that his dune buggy enthusiasm is taking up much of his time these days.


----------



## cephelix

Ahhh, ok then.from the recommendations here of him, I learned alot reading his articles and tests


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think he's fully retired. I do know from watching his YouTube channel though that his dune buggy enthusiasm is taking up much of his time these days.


Im sure if some of the new swiftech items landed at his door he wouldnt be able to resist the review


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Im sure if some of the new swiftech items landed at his door he wouldnt be able to resist the review


I think so too!! Lol


----------



## M3TAl

What about a swap? H220X and MCP50X for Martin and a dune buggy for Swiftech?


----------



## cephelix

Yeah! I'm sure bram could use a dune buggy if he were to tour the chinese plants again..


----------



## jimi977

just got my h220 from rma and it has a new pump, it has a sata connector like the glacier 240 and the fittings on the side became wider because it hits my mb heatsink (gigabyte z87x-ud4h)


----------



## Teufelshunde

r/s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> just got my h220 from rma and it has a new pump, it has a sata connector like the glacier 240 and the fittings on the side became wider because it hits my mb heatsink (gigabyte z87x-ud4h)


this is a Concern for me, I am expecting a replacement as well and can not afford for the pump dimensions to be wider than the original. I was already brushing up against my 1st ram slot. Brian can we get confirmation, is there a dimension change for us older H220 people getting the new pump as a replacement for RMA's?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> The fin has not completely broken off, its about too and is loose. When it spins, I'm assuming the air is pushing it up to make it touch the edge. If I superglue it now, while its still in balance, would it be effective?


If you leave a giant blob of glue on there it'll wobble bad, but if you have a way to trim off the access glue once dry, like a rotary tool with a tiny bit, it could get you by. I've repaired fans this way before with success, including a GPU fan on my old Powercolor 6950. Eventually you'll likely want to replace it, but in the meantime I wouldn't think it a huge deal personally. I have noticed though that superglue doesn't hold that great. I used gorilla glue but it can be a hassle because ti expands as it dries.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> r/s
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jimi977*
> 
> just got my h220 from rma and it has a new pump, it has a sata connector like the glacier 240 and the fittings on the side became wider because it hits my mb heatsink (gigabyte z87x-ud4h)
> 
> 
> 
> this is a Concern for me, I am expecting a replacement as well and can not afford for the pump dimensions to be wider than the original. I was already brushing up against my 1st ram slot. Brian can we get confirmation, is there a dimension change for us older H220 people getting the new pump as a replacement for RMA's?
Click to expand...

Since it will fit on the same CPU block (base) I think its at the same dimensions, maybe it can go taller but not definitely wider that goes over the barbs


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teufelshunde*
> 
> r/s
> this is a Concern for me, I am expecting a replacement as well and can not afford for the pump dimensions to be wider than the original. I was already brushing up against my 1st ram slot. Brian can we get confirmation, is there a dimension change for us older H220 people getting the new pump as a replacement for RMA's?


There has been no dimension change. There may be some slight variation from one housing to the next due to mass production, but there were no dimension changes.


----------



## RedBeaver

Just installed my kit and the pump noise is unbearable









Sounds like a fan that has a little plastic stuck in it. Yes, that bad. Has a video but can't upload right now.

Thoughts?

Ps: fits well though on my 250D and Asus z97i mItx.
Pps: needs to rotate the pump so the barb are toward the back/ports since it's hitting the RAM sticks (very lie clearance ones too)

Video:
Swiftech H220 pump issue:


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Just installed my kit and the pump noise is unbearable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a fan that has a little plastic stuck in it. Yes, that bad. Has a video but can't upload right now.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Ps: fits well though on my 250D and Asus z97i mItx.
> Pps: needs to rotate the pump so the barb are toward the back/ports since it's hitting the RAM sticks (very lie clearance ones too)
> 
> Video:
> Swiftech H220 pump issue:


Yup that is loud. I doubt I can offer a solution, but try rolling your case around to help feed the pump incase there is an air lock.


----------



## cephelix

sounds like air stuck behind the impeller.....i had that too....apparently mine came with the old version of the impeller. An email to bryan and all was sorted without any hassle.he's on here pretty frequent so you should have no trouble getting in contact with him. He'll guide you on what you need to do. In the meantime though, to make the sound inaudible, i suggest you download "speedfan". It's a program that allows you to adjust the pwm speed of anything connected to your cpu fan header, of course provided you hooked everything up as per the given instructions. there's a video on youtube on how to set up speedfan. Once done, just adjust the pwm speed to 0%. that should eliminate the noise


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Just installed my kit and the pump noise is unbearable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a fan that has a little plastic stuck in it. Yes, that bad. Has a video but can't upload right now.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Ps: fits well though on my 250D and Asus z97i mItx.
> Pps: needs to rotate the pump so the barb are toward the back/ports since it's hitting the RAM sticks (very lie clearance ones too)
> 
> Video:
> Swiftech H220 pump issue:


Please PM me about this so that I can assist you with resolving this issue.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> sounds like air stuck behind the impeller.....i had that too....apparently mine came with the old version of the impeller. An email to bryan and all was sorted without any hassle.he's on here pretty frequent so you should have no trouble getting in contact with him. He'll guide you on what you need to do. In the meantime though, to make the sound inaudible, i suggest you download "speedfan". It's a program that allows you to adjust the pwm speed of anything connected to your cpu fan header, of course provided you hooked everything up as per the given instructions. there's a video on youtube on how to set up speedfan. Once done, just adjust the pwm speed to 0%. that should eliminate the noise


May be different with your speedfan and how it is configured, but adjusting pwm to 0 % on my rig with speedfan will shut the pump down completely.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> May be different with your speedfan and how it is configured, but adjusting pwm to 0 % on my rig with speedfan will shut the pump down completely.


is that even possible? well, i can't remember now. either ways, so long as it's below 1.5k rpm, the sound should be inaudible.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> May be different with your speedfan and how it is configured, but adjusting pwm to 0 % on my rig with speedfan will shut the pump down completely.


This is possible if the program allows power to be cut to the header entirely. Some motherboards have this ability, so keep this in mind. If you have the pump connected via our PWM splitter though, this shouldn't happen. Even at 0% the pump will still get power from the PSU and operate at about 1200 RPM.


----------



## babycharm00

I just installed my h320, this is just great, I have to do some benching now, but so far the temps dont move when I rapidly open IE windows. can anyone give me a idea of temp. when sitting on idle on i7-960 monitoring on the hw monitor?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babycharm00*
> 
> I just installed my h320, this is just great, I have to do some benching now, but so far the temps dont move when I rapidly open IE windows. can anyone give me a idea of temp. when sitting on idle on i7-960 monitoring on the hw monitor?


well, that depends on alot of things.what are your ambients?any oc?voltage?

i have an i5 760, i basically get the same temps on idle from 3.6GHz 1.1ish volts to 4.0GHz at 1.26V idle which is around mid 40s. ambients are around mid 30s.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is possible if the program allows power to be cut to the header entirely. Some motherboards have this ability, so keep this in mind. If you have the pump connected via our PWM splitter though, this shouldn't happen. Even at 0% the pump will still get power from the PSU and operate at about 1200 RPM.


Sorry I must take back what I said, not sure what was going on when experimented that last but I re-tested and my pump did not stop at 0% under speedfan.

My bad.


----------



## cephelix

just make sure it's connected to the splitter and not directly to the motherboard header....dont want to potentially burn out a header or your pump


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> just make sure it's connected to the splitter and not directly to the motherboard header....dont want to potentially burn out a header or your pump


I never had it plugged directly to the mobo, always through the splitter.


----------



## RedBeaver

Going to try setting rpm to 0 by Ai Suite (it's an Asus Z97i-Plus) and check the hw monitor to make sure my temp is ok, see if it helps with sound.

So is Bryan = BramSL1? Will pm.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Going to try setting rpm to 0 by Ai Suite (it's an Asus Z97i-Plus) and check the hw monitor to make sure my temp is ok, see if it helps with sound.
> 
> So is Bryan = BramSL1? Will pm.


Yes, that's me.


----------



## babycharm00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> well, that depends on alot of things.what are your ambients?any oc?voltage?
> 
> i have an i5 760, i basically get the same temps on idle from 3.6GHz 1.1ish
> volts to 4.0GHz at 1.26V idle which is around mid 40s. ambients are around mid 30s.


here are my stats:


----------



## EarlZ

Anyone already using a the H220X pump as a replacement for the faulty H220 pumps ?


----------



## Roxxas049

I have an H220 running 2 extra 240mm rads and a gpu block. My temperatures seem mediocre. Would it help my system to add an MCP655 pump or would it hurt the H220's pump more than it would help my temps?

Or should I just use the H220 pump/block as a block and run the 655 only by unplugging the H220 from the hub?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> I have an H220 running 2 extra 240mm rads and a gpu block. My temperatures seem mediocre. Would it help my system to add an MCP655 pump or would it hurt the H220's pump more than it would help my temps?
> 
> Or should I just use the H220 pump/block as a block and run the 655 only by unplugging the H220 from the hub?


Can you explain what you mean by "mediocre"? Please also list your ambient temperature, full-load temperature, and your voltages. This will help us to understand if there is an issue with your temperatures. A list of your components and the case you're using will also help.


----------



## Roxxas049

Well mediocre to me means there's wide disparity between my ambient temps and my load temps. My ambient is 27c idle temps of my cpu block are typically 36c with the h220 running at 3000 rpm and 39-41c when I turn it down to minimum via my fan suite ( I'm going for a low decibels build) at the idle my gpu sits at 40c on 3k rpm and 42-43 on low speed.

Load temps from the cpu ( running prime95) hit 70c and if I turn the h220 all the way up they stabilize around 65-66c The gpu with an aquacomputer block and active backplate hit 60c running furmark.

Using HWmonitor to see temps btw.

Thanks for the quick response


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Well mediocre to me means there's wide disparity between my ambient temps and my load temps. My ambient is 27c idle temps of my cpu block are typically 36c with the h220 running at 3000 rpm and 39-41c when I turn it down to minimum via my fan suite ( I'm going for a low decibels build) at the idle my gpu sits at 40c on 3k rpm and 42-43 on low speed.
> 
> Load temps from the cpu ( running prime95) hit 70c and if I turn the h220 all the way up they stabilize around 65-66c The gpu with an aquacomputer block and active backplate hit 60c running furmark.
> 
> Using HWmonitor to see temps btw.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response


That's not really enough information to go on. If you could post your system specs and voltages that would help. Also, having your GPU also in your loop will effect your temperatures. Do you have any pictures of the system that you could post as well?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Well mediocre to me means there's wide disparity between my ambient temps and my load temps. My ambient is 27c idle temps of my cpu block are typically 36c with the h220 running at 3000 rpm and 39-41c when I turn it down to minimum via my fan suite ( I'm going for a low decibels build) at the idle my gpu sits at 40c on 3k rpm and 42-43 on low speed.
> 
> Load temps from the cpu ( running prime95) hit 70c and if I turn the h220 all the way up they stabilize around 65-66c The gpu with an aquacomputer block and active backplate hit 60c running furmark.
> 
> Using HWmonitor to see temps btw.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response


Well for starters your running a 4770k and an r9 290 in the same loop, both which are hot components, running prime im assuming your still on a stock oc and even then thats a great temp for the 4770k. I cant answer on the 290 other than I know its a hot card and I NEVER run furmark on a gpu. Run a benchmark like unigen heaven or valley for a more realistic gaming temp.

You need to specify your components speeds and voltage, if its stock just say stock.


----------



## Roxxas049

I will get pics in here as soon as I can. I'm not quite done with it.







(as if we ever are "done" with our builds" As far as voltages and such.. The 4770k is oc'd to 4.2 at 1.184 stable. The video card is stock


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babycharm00*
> 
> here are my stats:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *babycharm00*
> 
> here are my stats:


whoa,voltage seems high, but i have no experience with your system.those are idle temps?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Well mediocre to me means there's wide disparity between my ambient temps and my load temps. My ambient is 27c idle temps of my cpu block are typically 36c with the h220 running at 3000 rpm and 39-41c when I turn it down to minimum via my fan suite ( I'm going for a low decibels build) at the idle my gpu sits at 40c on 3k rpm and 42-43 on low speed.
> 
> Load temps from the cpu ( running prime95) hit 70c and if I turn the h220 all the way up they stabilize around 65-66c The gpu with an aquacomputer block and active backplate hit 60c running furmark.
> 
> Using HWmonitor to see temps btw.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response
> 
> 
> 
> Well for starters your running a 4770k and an r9 290 in the same loop, both which are hot components, running prime im assuming your still on a stock oc and even then thats a great temp for the 4770k. I cant answer on the 290 other than I know its a hot card and I NEVER run furmark on a gpu. Run a benchmark like unigen heaven or valley for a more realistic gaming temp.
> 
> You need to specify your components speeds and voltage, if its stock just say stock.
Click to expand...

specifically cpu + gpu in a small loop ! my loop eats my quadfire and cpu ( one is 5x480 )


----------



## Roxxas049

Ok well here is my setup as of tonight 



That's the swiftech rad up top with fans in push/pull.... An Alphacool ut60 240 rad on the bottom and an xt 240 in front.

Let me know if you see anything unusual


----------



## Phelan

Adding another pump in the loop won't hurt the H220 and in fact should help your temps. While your temps look fine to me, they are hotter than they would be with more flow because of the stretch of blocks/rads in your loop. You could probably take a radiator out and have better temps. The H220 will handle the larger loops like yours without issue but that's not to say that it will preform at 100% best temps. As you add more blocks you're lowering your flow rate, which is the bottleneck in your case (pun intended).


----------



## 66racer

@Roxxas049

Yeah I have to agree with phelan. With a loop like that I would at least run the pump at full speed during gaming and such and maybe 2000rpm for idle/light loads if you want ideal temps. Just put the fans on another channel so they can run at a different speed. Its what I did especially for summer and its worth a few degrees with light loads with just having the pump at 100% all the time. I always game with it at 100% anyways but from 2000rpm to 3000rpm gaming its probably 2c difference in my loop at least.


----------



## RedBeaver

OK, it's official. Bryan and I tried to work things out, but it's to no avail. Credit to Bryan for the great support though.

The H220 simply won't work with Corsair 250D case. Due to the orientation of the kit, the res cannot act as an air-trap, and hence it's going to get the air trapped in the pump instead.

Oh well... time to go custom, I suppose.....?


----------



## gdubc

Or add a res, or even a t fitting with a vent at the top.


----------



## RedBeaver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Or add a res, or even a t fitting with a vent at the top.


Can you be more specific?

How can a res guarantee as an air trap? ie. how can i get rid of the trapped bubbles and make sure it doesn't come back?
And does the res need to be at higher elevation than the.... pump? the rad? Or doesn't matter? (physic 101 is faaaar far long time ago)
And T-fitting, huh? Would that be enough for an air trap? It would make the bleeding process and refilling much easier, but i dont understand how it can effectively be an air trap....

thanks all!


----------



## gdubc

Add a res before the pump/block and it will act as an air trap in place of the res/rad. You would still need to do the usual shaking/jiggling to bleed the air from opening the system. A t fitting at a high point in the loop pointing up would also act as an air trap.


----------



## Mega Man

All you are doing is moving the red from the rad to somewhere else. The Swiftech micro res works great for this. A few fittings and you may need some tubing but I bet you could do it without


----------



## RedBeaver

OK, i'm fairly sure now I got a faulty pump.

Just did another top up and some more jiggling to bleed the air with my case on its side and the rad much elevated.

I can hear the bubble sounds that came from the pump as I bleed and jiggle. I can also hear that sound slowly fade away as I run it full speed after half and hour or so.... and I can even succesfully recreate that bubbly sound again with certain orientation and leveling...

*BUT* the really loud "pump" noise that persists since day 1 is still there. Same frequency, same volume. I can even play with pump speed using ASUS fan control, which is connected through the stock switcher and while the fans go up and down, the "pump" noise still sounded exactly the same.

I think at this point I can either RMA (and risk another botchy pump) or grab a tank+pump and CPU block.... lol


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> All you are doing is moving the red from the rad to somewhere else. The Swiftech micro res works great for this. A few fittings and you may need some tubing but I bet you could do it without


This is actually what I'm doing right now with my hackneyed CPU & RAM loop in my S8; I'm using the Koolance reservoir on top of the pump as a filling point and "first stop" for the water before the pump (obviously), but I have a Swiftech Micro Res V2 up "earlier" in my component order that allows for better filling and a little calming action.

Nothing wrong with two reservoirs!









Thanks - T


----------



## EarlZ

Is the fill port on the H220 a G1/4?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is the fill port on the H220 a G1/4?


Yes.


----------



## RedBeaver

New update i found while tweaking it for one last time before i RMA this thing.....

When I plug the pump cable to the PWM splitter, it is very loud. Like my video. And idle temperature (playing Watch Dog for 30 min) is around 25-30.

When I plug it directly the motherboard, it's considerably quieter... but i can still faintly hear it. And the temp is 35-40.

Weird, huh?

Theni plug it back to the splitter, and u can hear it's revving up to full speed, carrying a LOT of bubbles (which is a different noise, and eventually quiet down).

I don't know what else can i do before i RMA this kit....


----------



## Mega Man

sounds to me like you are using voltage to control it vs pwm


----------



## Phelan

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds to me like you are using voltage to control it vs pwm










what Matt said. Do not continue to run the pump on voltage control or it WILL kill the pump. Keep it plugged into the splitter.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what Matt said. Do not continue to run the pump on voltage control or it WILL kill the pump. Keep it plugged into the splitter.


It is that necessary?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> It is that necessary?


If your header is modulating via voltage, absolutely. Do you want to kill your pump?

If the splitter was plugged into the same header as the pump was, and the pump runs at 100% when plugged in through the header, with no other changes, then that's proof that the header is modulating via voltage. The splitter gets full 12v power from the SATA or Molex plug, and only modulates PWM devices via PWM signal from the mobo header. If there is no PWM signal, the devices run at 100%. The pump being plugged into the mobo directly is running slower because it's receiving less than 12v from the motherboard, which can kill the pump, because it was designed to always receive 12v.


----------



## Jugurnot

I think someone mentioned earlier that could also kill your mobo header with all that amperage flowing through it to power the pump.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I think someone mentioned earlier that could also kill your mobo header with all that amperage flowing through it to power the pump.


This too, even when the header is deigned for PWM modulation. My stance and recommendation is to always run the pump through the splitter, and get a second splitter if you have need/desire to modulate the fans separately from the pump. This is the same basis as to why the CM Glacer 240L has a separate SATA plug to supply the pump full 12v power so the mobo header cannot damage the pump, as the only two wires going to the fan header are RPM and PWM signal.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Thanks, I am using the splitter but the literature is less urgent about the need.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks, I am using the splitter but the literature is less urgent about the need.


That's true, but the literature is likely older and made before we had over a year of data and feedback. Just in this thread, which has become a centralized locale for Q&A, opinions, and help, we have over 10,000 posts. That's a lot of data







.


----------



## jbdino

Rig in sig. I have just installed the H320 in my new system, and I get the POST message "CPU fan error". After a few minutes with the PC on, the temperatures start to spike to near 90 degrees. The pump is connected to the PWM splitter channel 1 and the three fans are connected to the fan headers on the splitter. The splitter is connected to the CPU FAN header on the motherboard and is powered by a SATA connector running to the PSU. The tubing close to the pump gets very warm, although it feels like the tube is vibrating from water flow. I really, really hope this unit is not DOA since I'd rather not have to RMA. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? I can take pictures or provide more information as necessary.


----------



## Mega Man

Sounds like air bubble


----------



## jbdino

An air bubble would cause this?

Edit: I should note that the BIOS does not appear to show any fan info for CPU FAN. I know the pump is attached, but shouldn't it still show something connected?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> Rig in sig. I have just installed the H320 in my new system, and I get the POST message "CPU fan error". After a few minutes with the PC on, the temperatures start to spike to near 90 degrees. The pump is connected to the PWM splitter channel 1 and the three fans are connected to the fan headers on the splitter. The splitter is connected to the CPU FAN header on the motherboard and is powered by a SATA connector running to the PSU. The tubing close to the pump gets very warm, although it feels like the tube is vibrating from water flow. I really, really hope this unit is not DOA since I'd rather not have to RMA. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? I can take pictures or provide more information as necessary.


It sounds to me like the pump isn't running. The fans could be adding vibration to the tubes. I would contact Bryan about disassembling the pump first so he can oversee the process with you and not void your warrantee. That way you can inspect it for debris or gunk clogging the impeller. At least that way you wouldn't necessarily have to RMA it if it turns out to be a simple issue as this.


----------



## jbdino

I feel incredibly stupid. I didn't realize that I didn't connect the pump's SATA power connector (separate from the splitter SATA power connector). I will attach this and report back. Hopefully it works proper!


----------



## RedBeaver

OK, thanks for the explanations about the splitter vs the fan header. My Z97i has PWM control on the CPU_fan header, but it does stay a lot quieter, and i agree, it might kill the pump that way.

But through the splitter, it is noisy as hell.

Guess i'll be dissassembling it tonight









I'll add a video so everyone understands it tonight.


----------



## jbdino

Motherboard now detecting pump! Idle is at 28 degrees. I feel silly, but thankful nothing was wrong.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> That's true, but the literature is likely older and made before we had over a year of data and feedback. Just in this thread, which has become a centralized locale for Q&A, opinions, and help, we have over 10,000 posts. That's a lot of data
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes, thanks.


----------



## RedBeaver

Here's the video promised.

Ignore 0:32 where it suddenly got quiet... probably my phone try to auto-adjust noise level.
For quick comparison if you don't want to watch the whole clip, compare anywhere 0:02 - 0:10 with anywhere 0:35 - 0:45.

Note, i've drained it once, top it up multiple times, shaking it, squeezing it, soaping it, tilting it, elevating it... everything except opening the actual pump (which will break the RMA).

This is in BIOS where all fans are set to PWM, Manual, 100% all the time.

Time to pull the plug on this bad boy.....


----------



## cephelix

if it's that difficult to remove the bubble, you may have an old version of the impeller...that's what i experienced as well before i took the plunge and opened the pump...


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbdino*
> 
> I feel incredibly stupid. I didn't realize that I didn't connect the pump's SATA power connector (separate from the splitter SATA power connector). I will attach this and report back. Hopefully it works proper!


I think the one you comes with the H220X pumps, or at least thats what bram told me that the H220X pumps come in a SATA power instead of PWM only. How is the noise level at 100% pump speed?


----------



## Teufelshunde

Just installed my 3rd H220. Maybe 3 will be a lucky number. 1st two had the dreaded impeller noise that i couldn't get rid of with all the usual tweaks. This 3rd unit looks like the newer version with the sata connector. Only time will tell, really want this to work because the H220 unit can perform great when it's running smoothly. Thanks again to Brian and Swiftech customer service in general.

r/s


----------



## Agoniizing

Can you guys tell me if this is normal for the pump to be this loud at max speed?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this is normal for the pump to be this loud at max speed?


Not normal, you may need to RMA it. the pump should only be audible at 100% if your ears are close to it.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Not normal, you may need to RMA it. the pump should only be audible at 100% if your ears are close to it.


I just got this one back from RMA.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Not normal, you may need to RMA it. the pump should only be audible at 100% if your ears are close to it.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got this one back from RMA.
Click to expand...

You may wanna contact bram for further assistance on that. Did the pump come with SATA power or 4pin PWM ?


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> You may wanna contact bram for further assistance on that. Did the pump come with SATA power or 4pin PWM ?


Ive been talking to Bryan for the past 2 days and we still cant figure it out. This one has SATA power.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> You may wanna contact bram for further assistance on that. Did the pump come with SATA power or 4pin PWM ?
> 
> 
> 
> Ive been talking to Bryan for the past 2 days and we still cant figure it out. This one has SATA power.
Click to expand...

Oh.. snap...


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Not normal, you may need to RMA it. the pump should only be audible at 100% if your ears are close to it.


Are you sure? Im only asking because my h220 sounds the same but I never thought there was anything wrong with it...


----------



## jbdino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I think the one you comes with the H220X pumps, or at least thats what bram told me that the H220X pumps come in a SATA power instead of PWM only. How is the noise level at 100% pump speed?


I just finished putting together the PC a few hours ago so I haven't spent much time with it. However, I can say that I can't tell if the pump is running or not even when I listen for it. One of the benefits of the H320 compared to smaller AIOs, apart from the increased radiator area, is the ability to run the loop on lower settings with similar results because of the greater cooling efficiency. When I start playing some games, I'll listen for changes in the acoustic profile and let you know. So far, I am very happy with Swiftech's construction quality and design.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Not normal, you may need to RMA it. the pump should only be audible at 100% if your ears are close to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure? Im only asking because my h220 sounds the same but I never thought there was anything wrong with it...
Click to expand...

If you do not believe me, ask confirmation from Bram.


----------



## cephelix

that sound comes from an air bubble...mine came with a sata cable too but my impeller was the original version. once i swapped out the original for a revision, the noise went away....


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> that sound comes from an air bubble...mine came with a sata cable too but my impeller was the original version. once i swapped out the original for a revision, the noise went away....


By original meaning it only had the single hole on the impeller?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> Here's the video promised.
> 
> Ignore 0:32 where it suddenly got quiet... probably my phone try to auto-adjust noise level.
> For quick comparison if you don't want to watch the whole clip, compare anywhere 0:02 - 0:10 with anywhere 0:35 - 0:45.
> 
> Note, i've drained it once, top it up multiple times, shaking it, squeezing it, soaping it, tilting it, elevating it... everything except opening the actual pump (which will break the RMA).
> 
> This is in BIOS where all fans are set to PWM, Manual, 100% all the time.
> 
> Time to pull the plug on this bad boy.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Aside from the sound of some slight air or something, the pump seems to have a growl kind of sound to it as well, like a friction kind of sound, wonder if the copper fins are clogged with that plasticizer stuff.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this is normal for the pump to be this loud at max speed?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That pump sound seems kind of normal. You can hear the pwm pulses a bit but I would give it a day or two in your system along with other fans running and such and bet you wouldnt hear it much if at all. If the noise persist or seems to get worse then there may be an issue. Im sure Brian from swiftech will comment on it as well.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this is normal for the pump to be this loud at max speed?


Sounds like an air bubble to me. While it's dangling like that, I would shake it, firmly tap it, turn all around until it changes. Also consider modulating power (power on, power off, power on, etc. usually done with the switch on the PSU when the pump is hot wired on like that).


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> By original meaning it only had the single hole on the impeller?


Yup, that single, tiny, lonesome hole...Talked to bram and was shipped a new impeller and all is well now....


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> By original meaning it only had the single hole on the impeller?
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, that single, tiny, lonesome hole...Talked to bram and was shipped a new impeller and all is well now....
Click to expand...

I guess they didnt change the impeller size then. Ill probably have to check the pump they are sending me.


----------



## cephelix

from what i got, it seems they didn't not sure if the h220x would be different though


----------



## Gallien

Just installed my H320. Pump seems to stay at ~1200RPM (VIA SPEEDFAN/BIOS). Ran intel burn test and immediately up to 85c and lockup. Any ideas? I am going to take my pc apart again and verify the 4 pin from the pump is on the right header from the swiftech splitter. also going to switch the power cable running to the splitter. (3 swiftech fans spinning just fine from the swiftech splitter) pump sounds quiet, all be it at 1200 RPM









Bryan!! LOL


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Hello All,

Iit's been a while since I've been here...probably because everything was going great and I was busy working/programming. But, things have come to a screeching and mind-bending stop. Thursday, my H220 pump just decided to die in the middle of checking emails and obtaining directions for the following day's Bar-B-Q...the siren went off and a huge pop-up appeared informing me my CPU was inching toward 85C







I immediately turned my system off, grabbed a glass of water and gave my system [and self] an hour breather. When I turned the system back on, I was directed to my P9X79-E WS's BIOS where I discovered my pump had indeed died...it was registering 0 RPMs!!! On the way back yesterday [Friday] I stopped at the local Fry's and grabbed the last Cooler Master Nepton 280L...have a business conference Monday afternoon so I need a CPU cooler right now.

OK, now here's where I need your help...when I opened the case to remove the H220 this evening, I discovered there was fluid--WATER--on the motherboard!!! One of the fittings on the tubing to the heat-sink/pump had come off! I got most of the water off my motherboard and letting it dry over night, but do you think it's okay? Oh, and I already sent Bryan a PM for a RMA [before I opened my case]...but I'll call Swiftech Monday about this latest "problem"...I just need an answer to the motherboard question before I install the Nepton.

Thanks,

Kat


----------



## RedBeaver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Aside from the sound of some slight air or something, the pump seems to have a growl kind of sound to it as well, like a friction kind of sound, wonder if the copper fins are clogged with that plasticizer stuff.


aye. that's what i hear as well. there is a slight air which dissapates in about an hour, that Bryan already confirmed it's air and unfortunately for 250D users, it will come back unless i stick a separate reservoir there.

and then there's the friction cranking noise.

this guy going to RMA for store credit now







maybe ill have better luck with custom swiftech loop!


----------



## Gallien

False alarm for me guys running good now. The sata power cable for the splitter was partially broken on its end and I didn't realize that it was plugged in upside down. Flipped the adapter and now she churns up to 3000 rim and cools like a dream.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hello All,
> Iit's been a while since I've been here...probably because everything was going great and I was busy working/programming. But, things have come to a screeching and mind-bending stop. Thursday, my H220 pump just decided to die in the middle of checking emails and obtaining directions for the following day's Bar-B-Q...the siren went off and a huge pop-up appeared informing me my CPU was inching toward 85C:no-smile I immediately turned my system off, grabbed a glass of water and gave my system [and self] an hour breather. When I turned the system back on, I was directed to my P9X79-E WS's BIOS where I discovered my pump had indeed died...it was registering 0 RPMs!!! On the way back yesterday [Friday] I stopped at the local Fry's and grabbed the last Cooler Master Nepton 280L...have a business conference Monday afternoon so I need a CPU cooler right now.
> 
> OK, now here's where I need your help...when I opened the case to remove the H220 this evening, I discovered there was fluid--WATER--on the motherboard!!! One of the fittings on the tubing to the heat-sink/pump had come off! I got most of the water off my motherboard and letting it dry over night, but do you think it's okay? Oh, and I already sent Bryan a PM for a RMA [before I opened my case]...but I'll call Swiftech Monday about this latest "problem"...I just need an answer to the motherboard question before I install the Nepton.
> 
> Thanks,
> Kat


You mean to say one of the elbows on the CPU block came off ? That is scary! did you take pictures?


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Hi Earl,

Yep, one of the fittings from the elbow came off, and yes I did take some pictures...not sure how good they came out, was too busy trying to get the "fluid" off the board. I'll try to post them in a minute...need my morning caffeine jolt first...


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Iit's been a while since I've been here...probably because everything was going great and I was busy working/programming. But, things have come to a screeching and mind-bending stop. Thursday, my H220 pump just decided to die in the middle of checking emails and obtaining directions for the following day's Bar-B-Q...the siren went off and a huge pop-up appeared informing me my CPU was inching toward 85C:no-smile I immediately turned my system off, grabbed a glass of water and gave my system [and self] an hour breather. When I turned the system back on, I was directed to my P9X79-E WS's BIOS where I discovered my pump had indeed died...it was registering 0 RPMs!!! On the way back yesterday [Friday] I stopped at the local Fry's and grabbed the last Cooler Master Nepton 280L...have a business conference Monday afternoon so I need a CPU cooler right now.
> 
> OK, now here's where I need your help...when I opened the case to remove the H220 this evening, I discovered there was fluid--WATER--on the motherboard!!! One of the fittings on the tubing to the heat-sink/pump had come off! I got most of the water off my motherboard and letting it dry over night, but do you think it's okay? Oh, and I already sent Bryan a PM for a RMA [before I opened my case]...but I'll call Swiftech Monday about this latest "problem"...I just need an answer to the motherboard question before I install the Nepton.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kat
> 
> 
> 
> You mean to say one of the elbows on the CPU block came off ? That is scary! did you take pictures?
Click to expand...

Yep, it came off...as to pictures, well I tried to get the puddle on the board, but all I was able to capture were water drops....


and the other is very dark...


----------



## BramSLI1

Hi again Kat,

I'm sorry to hear about this. Do you have any pictures that show the pump and water block as it's still installed with the tubing coming off of it? This really shouldn't happen because the clamps that are used are secured with screws. Please PM me about this and I'll assist you further when I get into work tomorrow.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Hi again Kat,
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about this. Do you have any pictures that show the pump and water block as it's still installed with the tubing coming off of it? This really shouldn't happen because the clamps that are used are secured with screws. Please PM me about this and I'll assist you further when I get into work tomorrow.


Sorry Bram,

I was so shocked and concerned about water on the motherboard, I didn't get a picture of the tubing coming off...but I can tell you the clamp on that particular tube is really lose...I just stuck it "jammed" it back on the block once I got the tube out the case and a finger was over the exposed pump fitting while I used my other hand to unscrew the pump from the board.

Would you like a re-created picture? Only it will NOT be in the case...I can do that.

But I really would like to know if my motherboard is okay to use? I don't see any more "puddles"...but I think I'll take everything off the board and make a detailed inspection.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Sorry Bram,
> I was so shocked and concerned about water on the motherboard, I didn't get a picture of the tubing coming off...but I can tell you the clamp on that particular tube is really lose...I just stuck it "jammed" it back on the block once I got the tube out the case and a finger was over the exposed pump fitting while I used my other hand to unscrew the pump from the board.
> 
> Would you like a re-created picture? Only it will NOT be in the case...I can do that.
> 
> But I really would like to know if my motherboard is okay to use? I don't see any more "puddles"...but I think I'll take everything off the board and make a detailed inspection.


Was the system shut down when the leak occurred? If so then you should be fine. I can't tell you how many times I've had some leakage occur during leak testing and then just let everything dry before running it. I've never had a component fail once it dried off so long as there wasn't any power going to it to begin with.


----------



## Mega Man

i have :/

the water shorted the bios battery to something, and the board wouldnt post :/ no ones fault though


----------



## jbdino

My idle temps are sitting around 34 degrees which seems high. I used the TIM that came with the H320 and placed it in an X pattern (not the recommended straight line), though I believe I may have used to much. Would that cause temps to be a little high? I'm aiming for mid to high 20's for idle. I also have some Arctic MX-2 that I haven't used. Would it be a good idea to take the block off and reapply some MX-2? What's the best way to apply the TIM (grain of rice, line, even spread, etc.) and how much should I use?

Edit: This is with stock clocks. The only UEFI setting I altered from default so far was enabling XMP for the RAM.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like you use too much tim, recommended is pea unless 2011 then line due to die size/shape


----------



## EarlZ

What I noticed about the pea size is that it wont go all the way to the edges just a circular area from the middle covering about 75% if the core, Im guessing that is still ok?


----------



## sdmf74

aNY updates on the new MCP50X pump yet?


----------



## EarlZ

I got the replacement pump today, it now comes with a detachable sata power . Included on the pump are 2 washers, a big and a small one as it came dislodged when I got the pump I am not sure which one goes in first.

Installed the replacement pump started with crap tons of watery noise and mostly went away after 5mins tiling, tapping and getting a lot of bubbles out but i still hear a very faint water popping noise so Im guessing a bubble packet is still trapped inside but generally it is VERY silent, its more silent compared to the replacement pump I had. Im hoping that this is a permanent fix from Swiftech.

There is also a slight change to the impeller, I noticed that one of the holes that hold the metallic balance bit is an actual 'gap' instead of just being a hole the word gap might not be the right word to describe it but instead of it being like a tunnel its now a canyon.


----------



## JackieTran

Will this kit fit in the corsair 250d?


----------



## RX7-2nr

I'm pretty sure someone said that it will not maybe a week ago. They said that the end tank reservoir gets in the way.


----------



## Dudewitbow

the h220 does fit a 250D, but it becomes extremely tight. also due to its side orientation, it'd be a good idea to mount a seperate reservoir on the back 80mmx2 fan slots.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the h220 does fit a 250D, but it becomes extremely tight. also due to its side orientation, it'd be a good idea to mount a seperate reservoir on the back 80mmx2 fan slots.


Do you have any images?


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oldAMDnew2Intel*
> 
> Sorry Bram,
> I was so shocked and concerned about water on the motherboard, I didn't get a picture of the tubing coming off...but I can tell you the clamp on that particular tube is really lose...I just stuck it "jammed" it back on the block once I got the tube out the case and a finger was over the exposed pump fitting while I used my other hand to unscrew the pump from the board.
> 
> Would you like a re-created picture? Only it will NOT be in the case...I can do that.
> 
> But I really would like to know if my motherboard is okay to use? I don't see any more "puddles"...but I think I'll take everything off the board and make a detailed inspection.
> 
> 
> 
> Was the system shut down when the leak occurred? If so then you should be fine. I can't tell you how many times I've had some leakage occur during leak testing and then just let everything dry before running it. I've never had a component fail once it dried off so long as there wasn't any power going to it to begin with.
Click to expand...

Yes, everything was disconnected...PSU and UPS...glad to know I'll be OK. Oh, I did clean it up a tad with some alcohol--91% since I didn't want to go to the drugstore and deal with a pharmacist in the middle of the night.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> Do you have any images?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1466042/corsair-obsidian-250d-club/480_20#post_22011142

http://www.overclock.net/t/1484926/build-log-minirog-i7-4770k-gtx-780-poseidon-expanded-h220-loop/0_20


----------



## RX7-2nr

This was the post where I was talking about the guy saying that it doesn't fit a 250D.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> OK, it's official. Bryan and I tried to work things out, but it's to no avail. Credit to Bryan for the great support though.
> 
> The H220 simply won't work with Corsair 250D case. Due to the orientation of the kit, the res cannot act as an air-trap, and hence it's going to get the air trapped in the pump instead.
> 
> Oh well... time to go custom, I suppose.....?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> This was the post where I was talking about the guy saying that it doesn't fit a 250D.


nothing in the quote says it doesn't fit. the only thing that doesnt "work" is the air bubble capture reservoir. the guy in question also has pictures of his unit in his case


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> nothing in the quote says it doesn't fit. the only thing that doesnt "work" is the air bubble capture reservoir. the guy in question also has pictures of his unit in his case


Close enough


----------



## Agoniizing

*THE BUZZING WON'T GO AWAY!!! I've literally tried everything and I just got this one back from RMA. Bram has even tried to help me. I don't know what to do!
*


----------



## Roxxas049

Wow I thought my alarm clock was going off. But seriously it sounds like maybe that one slipped through the cracks and nothing was repaired and it was sent back to you like that.


----------



## SetTriggers

Bought this from NCIX in Feb on sale for 99.99 - also with 2 noctua fans. Never opened box untill july 4th weekend - installed with 2 other hardware upgrades.

Swooshing sound on bootup, went away very quickly. 32c temp around 2k rpm. 5 minutes in blue screen 82C and no rpm, PUMP dead. I double checked everything pwm header works ok with stock intell cooler.
After all the problems i've seen on forums including swifttechs site. Does not make for a good experience for end user. Currently requested rma from ncix, if they dont rma it, yeah $100 wasted don't sit to well.

2 of the washers on block to hold screw down pins came off . - if this is trash in system stopping these pumps tells me the rads were not flushed and after seeing hold down screws not properly installed tells me quality service checks are not in place. BAD
I know swiftech can do better than this unacceptable workmanship.

update
NCIX : Your RMA Request has been declined. - Last time i buy from them

Trying rma from swiftech


----------



## Agoniizing

It's not funny. I'm not a happy customer.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> It's not funny. I'm not a happy customer.


RMA it again


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> RMA it again


-________-


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> -________-


Bram said he doesn't know what it could be.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> *THE BUZZING WON'T GO AWAY!!! I've literally tried everything and I just got this one back from RMA. Bram has even tried to help me. I don't know what to do!
> *


Ive been having to use my old trusty H100 that I bought 2 yrs ago and that has not crapped out on me not once.


----------



## SetTriggers

sounds like trash in system bouncing around - my guess radiator was not flushed


----------



## Roxxas049

Was there any documentation that they sent with the pump that explained what was repaired?

I noticed that you changed out the tubing, any chance that you ran it dry upon first starting it up again?


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxxas049*
> 
> Was there any documentation that they sent with the pump that explained what was repaired?
> 
> I noticed that you changed out the tubing, any chance that you ran it dry upon first starting it up again?


When I rma'd the pump was completely dead, wouldn't even power on. And no, didn't run dry.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> -________-


1. Keep it, deal with the noise, and hopefully it will go away.
2. Keep it and try to fix the noise by taking it apart, possibly voiding your warranty.
3. RMA it a second time.
4. Throw it away and get a custom loop.

That's about it. Just send it back again and make sure you're not paying any shipping costs.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> 1. Keep it and deal with the noise.
> 2. Keep it and try to fix the noise by taking it apart.
> 3. RMA it a second time.
> 4. Throw it away and get a custom loop.
> 
> That's about it. Just send it back again and make sure you're not paying any shipping costs.


RMA third time*


----------



## RX7-2nr

Wow, that's even worse then. I thought this was only the second.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> 1. Keep it, deal with the noise, and hopefully it will go away.
> 2. Keep it and try to fix the noise by taking it apart, possibly voiding your warranty.
> 3. RMA it a second time.
> 4. Throw it away and get a custom loop.
> 
> That's about it. Just send it back again and make sure you're not paying any shipping costs.


1. Been trying for more than a week
2. Did take it apart, got bram's permission. No luck
3. Rma third time
4. Thinking about it if this doesn't get fixed


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> 1. Been trying for more than a week
> 2. Did take it apart, got bram's permission. No luck
> 3. Rma third time
> 4. Thinking about it if this doesn't get fixed


This is the brand new pump design and this is also the first one that has had any issue at all. This isn't the first one that has also been added to a custom loop either. I really don't know what it could be because I tested this pump myself for the better part of three days before shipping it to him because this was his third RMA. I admit that we've had some issues with the previous pump design, but this new one has been rock solid thus far. It really is quite baffling.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetTriggers*
> 
> Bought this from NCIX in Feb on sale for 99.99 - also with 2 noctua fans. Never opened box untill july 4th weekend - installed with 2 other hardware upgrades.
> 
> Swooshing sound on bootup, went away very quickly. 32c temp around 2k rpm. 5 minutes in blue screen 82C and no rpm, PUMP dead. I double checked everything pwm header works ok with stock intell cooler.
> After all the problems i've seen on forums including swifttechs site. Does not make for a good experience for end user. Currently requested rma from ncix, if they dont rma it, yeah $100 wasted don't sit to well.
> 
> 2 of the washers on block to hold screw down pins came off . - if this is trash in system stopping these pumps tells me the rads were not flushed and after seeing hold down screws not properly installed tells me quality service checks are not in place. BAD
> I know swiftech can do better than this unacceptable workmanship.
> 
> update
> NCIX : Your RMA Request has been declined. - Last time i buy from them


Did you plug the pump into the splitter and the splitter into the SATA or Molex and into the mobo header?


----------



## SetTriggers

Yes everything was hooked up as per Swiftech's manual - i bypassed splitter only after problem, straight to mobo cpu pwm which didn't work either. other fans were also working off the splitter so it wasn't that it didn't have power.

update: i forwarded the ncix refusal to rma to michelle at swiftech, i hope they will at least replace it. I never opened box until July 3, 2014

7/8/14 - no word from Swiftech yet - how about it Bram can i expect any help from Swiftech with this ?

7.8.14 update: several pms with bram Swiftech rep, very satisfied with replys, looks like we will be exchanging pumps for a tested one.


----------



## Mega Man

could it be getting hit in shipping ( meaning thrown )


----------



## EarlZ

Probably something like that happened to my replacement pump as the L on the plastic part was broken when I opened the box, I had to super glue it just to make sure that in the future I dont connect it the wrong way around.


----------



## sdmf74

If one of those were my package(s) I would of been in that UPS drivers face, Even if it wasnt mine I would have said somethin. Sad thing is that happens during every load/unload im sure.


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> could it be getting hit in shipping ( meaning thrown )





Oh my! :doh:My guess is that's why Amazon stopped shipping with UPS. We complained so much due to broken electronics that they now use ONTRAC. I must say they've been great so far. No throwing out of truck or pitching onto porches!!! Why don't you send the video to UPS so they can deal with that particular wanabe baseball-player/truck-driver?


----------



## SetTriggers

Wait I saw a Gorilla arm in that video


----------



## RedBeaver

just FYI. my RMA went fine with NCIX. got store credit instead.

but if it didnt go, i would spend money on a custom loop while scavenging the H220 except for the pump. everything else about that kit is rock solid.

just the pump... lol...

yes, see my previous posts. it does fit, but its not recommended for 250D. and if it starts crapping on you, then RMA it immediately for a new pump. just make sure you can tell the difference between bubble "swooshing" sound and pump "crackling" sound.... the earlier will go away after a few massage and tilt. the latter won't.


----------



## SetTriggers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedBeaver*
> 
> just FYI. my RMA went fine with NCIX. got store credit instead.
> 
> but if it didnt go, i would spend money on a custom loop while scavenging the H220 except for the pump. everything else about that kit is rock solid.
> 
> just the pump... lol...
> 
> yes, see my previous posts. it does fit, but its not recommended for 250D. and if it starts crapping on you, then RMA it immediately for a new pump. just make sure you can tell the difference between bubble "swooshing" sound and pump "crackling" sound.... the earlier will go away after a few massage and tilt. the latter won't.


I bought my h220 back in Feb without realizing you only have 30 days to rma . I didn't install it till july3rd . so ncix refers you to swiftech for warranty. I'm glad swiftech is standing behind this.


----------



## Badness

Does the Glacer 240L have the same pump issues?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SetTriggers*
> 
> I bought my h220 back in Feb without realizing you only have 30 days to rma . I didn't install it till july3rd . so ncix refers you to swiftech for warranty. I'm glad swiftech is standing behind this.


Come on now... 30 day return policy is the defacto standard for all stores in USA and I would assume Canada too.


----------



## SetTriggers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Come on now... 30 day return policy is the defacto standard for all stores in USA and I would assume Canada too.


So just what are you implying and not saying ?


----------



## M3TAl

Implying that I didn't understand how you didn't realize there was only 30 days to RMA it at ncix. But yes, Swiftech service is the bee's knees.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Does the Glacer 240L have the same pump issues?


What you see on this thread is the 1-5% of people who have issues with their pump and is basically H220 customer support HQ for everyone on OCN, plus some cool pictures of people expanding their loops. On the other hand, the very first batches of Glacers had a chance of wiring catching on fire, but it has been resolved, and the pump problems on the 240L seem to be non-existent. Personally, and I have had no problems except having to cut the mounting kit to fit the VRM heatsink of my Crosshair V Formula-Z.


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Does the Glacer 240L have the same pump issues?


No, not at this level.

Swiftech's pump too, which is the reason I just went with the 240L, since it's keeping true to me wanting a H220, but not being able to get one in the U.S.

I had nearly 500 hours on mine before I dismantled that rig for the processor, and nary a complaint at all!

Thanks - T


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> No, not at this level.
> 
> Swiftech's pump too, which is the reason I just went with the 240L, since it's keeping true to me wanting a H220, but not being able to get one in the U.S.
> 
> I had nearly 500 hours on mine before I dismantled that rig for the processor, and nary a complaint at all!
> 
> Thanks - T


By the way, have you expanded the 240L, and if so, was the experience painless?


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> No, not at this level.
> 
> Swiftech's pump too, which is the reason I just went with the 240L, since it's keeping true to me wanting a H220, but not being able to get one in the U.S.
> 
> I had nearly 500 hours on mine before I dismantled that rig for the processor, and nary a complaint at all!
> 
> Thanks - T
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, have you expanded the 240L, and if so, was the experience painless?
Click to expand...

Oh yesssss, it's _very_ nice.



Spoiler: Expanded...







Worked like a dream...

Thanks - T


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Does the Glacer 240L have the same pump issues?


One of the biggest reasons the Glacer 240L doesn't have as many problems as the H220 is the fact that it can only be powered with the SATA connector, so there's no possibility to power on a fan header, which is where most of the issues stem from IMO.


----------



## sdmf74

Still checking http://www.swiftech.com/pumps.aspx daily. I thought someone said that the new pump would go up for sale on swiftech.com the following week? This was a couple weeks ago. Have we had yet another setback?


----------



## EarlZ

Im even waiting for the H220X


----------



## RX7-2nr

The price on these AIOs is getting out of control. H220x costs the same as a basic custom loop.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> The price on these AIOs is getting out of control. H220x costs the same as a basic custom loop.


True, but the performance is either equal or better.


----------



## Mega Man

not really, 150 is not even enough for a decent loop and the price is exceptional for what you get


----------



## sdmf74

Can easily spend $150+ on fittings alone


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> The price on these AIOs is getting out of control. H220x costs the same as a basic custom loop.


H220X *IS* custom loop, just pre-sorted, preassembled







.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> H220X *IS* custom loop, just pre-sorted, preassembled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Isn't it an AIO that is expandable like the H220, H320 and the CM Glacer 240L/320L?

Custom to me would be picking your own parts and assembling it yourself. Or am I wrong?









Mike


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Still checking http://www.swiftech.com/pumps.aspx daily. I thought someone said that the new pump would go up for sale on swiftech.com the following week? This was a couple weeks ago. Have we had yet another setback?


Our factory has shipped the H220X and they should be here shortly. The MCP50X pump and Maelstrom combo kit will arrive in the next week or so. After that the MCP50X will also be offered as a stand-alone pump unit. It won't be long now.









Update- They will go on sale from our website starting sometime next week. Probably Monday or Tuesday depending on how long it takes to get all of the information updated on the website.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Isn't it an AIO that is expandable like the H220, H320 and the CM Glacer 240L/320L?
> 
> Custom to me would be picking your own parts and assembling it yourself. Or am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


True, but I meant more from a performance standpoint. You won't get much more cooling performance putting together a custom loop of similar size.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> *Isn't it an AIO that is expandable like the H220, H320 and the CM Glacer 240L/320L?*
> 
> Custom to me would be picking your own parts and assembling it yourself. Or am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


Exactly.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hey Bryan, have you guys sent the new pump already to Martin? Please do so, who known you guys might manage to get him back on testing and would love to see him dissecting the new pump.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hey Bryan, have you guys sent the new pump already to Martin? Please do so, who known you guys might manage to get him back on testing and would love to see him dissecting the new pump.


I would love to hear his thoughts on the new pump, Ive noticed a couple of changes on the new pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Just to be clear I am talking about the MCP50X pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just to be clear I am talking about the MCP50X pump


He's already informed me that he's going to be very busy this summer with his dune buggy hobby. He said that he might have time in the fall to look at.


----------



## gsk3rd

After a year of use of the H220 I can say that this unit is amazing. Changed fluid once when updating the tubing and been running awesome. Getting ready to change cases and maybe add a res. for the look but a solid product.

Side note, has anyone developed a acrylic top piece yet for the pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> After a year of use of the H220 I can say that this unit is amazing. Changed fluid once when updating the tubing and been running awesome. Getting ready to change cases and maybe add a res. for the look but a solid product.
> 
> Side note, has anyone developed a acrylic top piece yet for the pump?


I haven't seen anyone create one yet.


----------



## gsk3rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I haven't seen anyone create one yet.


wink, wink, hint, hint.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> wink, wink, hint, hint.


We have no plans to create at at this time. We may have something special in mind though for our new MCP50X though.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Bryan,

I'm building a 350D mATX rig, and I want to use the H220X in order to watercool the computer. My Mobo is an Asus Maximus VII Gene with a 4790K. What I need to know is this:


Relative to a standard "All-in-One" cooler (ie: Corsair H100i, Kraken X60, etc.,) is the "radiator + fan" part thicker than these? I ask because I do not want to have interference with any plugs / VRM / memory that I may use.
What are the LPH, pressure, flow, etc., specs of the included pump? As of right now, I'm looking at the CoolerMaster Glacer 240L (the "US Market friendly H220 Alternative) due to its high lph flow and good AIO cooling abilities. Will the H220X be superior to this, its peer, or worse?
Will the fact the reservoir and pump are integrated in the right-half / right-third of the radiator portion affect its usability in this case? Also, of the Swiftech Pumps that exist, which pump is this one the closest to in terms of performance? Will the pump be able to be upgraded to the upcoming MCP50X? (Or even better, a special edition MCP50X-powered H220X... I'd pay extra for that... just for the added power).
Any help is greatly appreciated. The AIO Cooler is the reason I've halted this build; I want Swiftech to have a chance at making the awesome AIO that I know it can make / market.

Jason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> I'm building a 350D mATX rig, and I want to use the H220X in order to watercool the computer. My Mobo is an Asus Maximus VII Gene with a 4790K. What I need to know is this:
> 
> 
> Relative to a standard "All-in-One" cooler (ie: Corsair H100i, Kraken X60, etc.,) is the "radiator + fan" part thicker than these? I ask because I do not want to have interference with any plugs / VRM / memory that I may use.
> What are the LPH, pressure, flow, etc., specs of the included pump? As of right now, I'm looking at the CoolerMaster Glacer 240L (the "US Market friendly H220 Alternative) due to its high lph flow and good AIO cooling abilities. Will the H220X be superior to this, its peer, or worse?
> Will the fact the reservoir and pump are integrated in the right-half / right-third of the radiator portion affect its usability in this case? Also, of the Swiftech Pumps that exist, which pump is this one the closest to in terms of performance? Will the pump be able to be upgraded to the upcoming MCP50X? (Or even better, a special edition MCP50X-powered H220X... I'd pay extra for that... just for the added power).
> Any help is greatly appreciated. The AIO Cooler is the reason I've halted this build; I want Swiftech to have a chance at making the awesome AIO that I know it can make / market.
> 
> Jason


Our radiator is 29mm thick and the fans add 25mm of thickness. In your case I don't think the pump and reservoir will be in the way. You should have enough room to be able to just fit everything at the top with the pump and reservoir positioned underneath. It is very hard to tell by looking at pictures though and we don't currently have one of those cases here to test fit it.

I don't have the specific LPH, but the pump that comes with this kit is stronger than the one that comes with the H220 or 240L. It should therefore give improved performance. The pump that it's closes to in terms of performance is our H220 and 240L pump. You can also upgrade it to the MCP50X though if want once those pumps are made available. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

THe pump / is offset; that is, it's not as wide as the radiator itself, right?

Also, do the fans pull in air, or push air out?

As far as upgrading goes, I'm going to install-and-leave it... hence why I was interested in the "H220XX" (an H220X with the MCP50X pre-installed).

WIll the fans be Helix fans?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Is this the H220X pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> THe pump / is offset; that is, it's not as wide as the radiator itself, right?
> 
> Also, do the fans pull in air, or push air out?
> 
> As far as upgrading goes, I'm going to install-and-leave it... hence why I was interested in the "H220XX" (an H220X with the MCP50X pre-installed).
> 
> WIll the fans be Helix fans?


You can set up the fans any way you want. I think they'll be installed in a push configuration though when it ships. I'm not sure what you mean by "offset". The pump and reservoir sit under the radiator so they do add to its thickness in that location. It's about the same place where the memory on the motherboard will be located, but there is enough clearance. You'd only have an issue if you had really tall memory heat spreaders. And I don't think we have any plans at this time to offer the kit with the MCP50X.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Is this the H220X pump?


That's not the same pump. That's a Laing DDC pump with our own top on it. Our MCP30X, which the H220X will use is our own design.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

By "offset", i mean "the pump + res" is not as wide as the entire radiator (120mm).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> By "offset", i mean "the pump + res" is not as wide as the entire radiator (120mm).


Yes, it is offset to allow for memory clearance.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> By "offset", i mean "the pump + res" is not as wide as the entire radiator (120mm).












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> THe pump / is offset; that is, it's not as wide as the radiator itself, right?
> 
> Also, do the fans pull in air, or push air out?
> 
> WIll the fans be Helix fans?


The fans pull air through the rad, but push are out through the case and mostly likely they will be helix


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> After a year of use of the H220 I can say that this unit is amazing. Changed fluid once when updating the tubing and been running awesome. Getting ready to change cases and maybe add a res. for the look but a solid product.
> 
> Side note, has anyone developed a acrylic top piece yet for the pump?


I actually thought of doing a really rough DIY version using UV acrylic and double sided clear tape. Only reason why i havent yet is due to not being the upmost priority, and i havent bought the acryllic/dremel yet(planning on designing it when i design a back plate for a very ghetto gpu waterblock i'm doing(I have a used 7970 now, going to destroy part of the HSF casing and stick a universal heatkiller gpu block inside while retaining the reference fan to cool VRM, filling holes with some clay and spray painting the case and redesigning the hybrid block)


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Any new info on when the shipment of H220x's is gonna arrive? (I have the swiftech store and NCIX bookmarked)

Jason


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsk3rd*
> 
> After a year of use of the H220 I can say that this unit is amazing. Changed fluid once when updating the tubing and been running awesome. Getting ready to change cases and maybe add a res. for the look but a solid product.
> 
> Side note, has anyone developed a acrylic top piece yet for the pump?


an acrylic top would be da bomb!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Any new info on when the shipment of H220x's is gonna arrive? (I have the swiftech store and NCIX bookmarked)
> 
> Jason


Please see post 10443.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

In three days!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> In three days!!!


Sometime next week. I'd say probably Tuesday or Wednesday. It depends on how long it takes to get everything updated on our website and in our system for sales.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

so 4 or 5 days









either way, if the pump power, the ID / OD diameter is good, etc., i'm in.

Jason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> so 4 or 5 days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> either way, if the pump power, the ID / OD diameter is good, etc., i'm in.
> 
> Jason


The kit also has G 1/4 ports so you can change our the fittings and tubing to the size and style that you prefer.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The kit also has G 1/4 ports so you can change our the fittings and tubing to the size and style that you prefer.


I'm too scared to change out stuff, I'm gonna leave it stock... but the reason i'm all enthused is because i'm building an mATX rig with M7Gene and a 4790K and I want "maximum awesomeness" with "minimum hassle"


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I'm too scared to change out stuff, I'm gonna leave it stock... but the reason i'm all enthused is because i'm building an mATX rig with M7Gene and a 4790K and I want "maximum awesomeness" with "minimum hassle"


it really is simple changing out the stuff.....especially since you're planning an mATX, you'd need every little bit of space you can get.... you could shorten the tubes bla bla bla


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our factory has shipped the H220X and they should be here shortly. The MCP50X pump and Maelstrom combo kit will arrive in the next week or so. After that the MCP50X will also be offered as a stand-alone pump unit. It won't be long now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update- They will go on sale from our website starting sometime next week. Probably Monday or Tuesday depending on how long it takes to get all of the information updated on the website.


Woo hoo looking to see how much the mcp50x will be as a stand alone unit







Was it still planned that there will be a version that can be used on the h220? Its been a while since I have seen it mentioned.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> He's already informed me that he's going to be very busy this summer with his dune buggy hobby. He said that he might have time in the fall to look at.


Bummer but hope he can look at it so it can be compared to his other data.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Do you think the Glacer 240L is a good buy for $99?


----------



## zila

Most Definitely.


----------



## Paul17041993

just recently been considering using the H320 over the Alphacool 360DDC kit, will be paired with the koolance 290X block (with a 290X duh), not intending OC much (but I would think it would still have OC room anyway, at least in winter).

any input regarding this? how does the pump in this 'kit' compare to the DDC? quieter? stronger? Ill have to replace the tubing and ultimately the coolant entirely as the tubes wont be long enough to reach around my case at all, coolant notes/recommendations? does the pump (or any component) have any issues with biocides or corrosion inhibitors?

tubing and coolant I'll likely get;
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_853&products_id=22496
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_301&products_id=24086

otherwise Ill fill it with filtered silverwater like what I did with my old water2.0pro (don't use it anymore as the pumps too loud, still works fine though).


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> just recently been considering using the H320 over the Alphacool 360DDC kit, will be paired with the koolance 290X block (with a 290X duh), not intending OC much (but I would think it would still have OC room anyway, at least in winter).
> 
> any input regarding this? how does the pump in this 'kit' compare to the DDC? quieter? stronger? Ill have to replace the tubing and ultimately the coolant entirely as the tubes wont be long enough to reach around my case at all, coolant notes/recommendations? does the pump (or any component) have any issues with biocides or corrosion inhibitors?
> 
> tubing and coolant I'll likely get;
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_853&products_id=22496
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_301&products_id=24086
> 
> otherwise Ill fill it with filtered silverwater like what I did with my old water2.0pro (don't use it anymore as the pumps too loud, still works fine though).


can't tell you much about the pump, having no experience with other types of pumps. but the tubing is a good choice. Kind of stiff s it's a bit difficult to fit into tight spaces. and you'll practically have to force it over the barbs on the pump and rad side. I don't know how the sizing goes but it is a very tight fit. Do be careful that you don't damage the barbs/elbows in the process. Also, it goes without saying, the collars that came with the h320 no longer fit. so you'll either have to find new hose clamps or just use a cable tie.

Maybe i got an old batch of the promochill tubing...maybe the newer batches are more friendly, i not sure.maybe someone else could chime in?


----------



## cephelix

Woohoo!Finally expanded my loop! Although my GPU isn't included. Still looking for compatible water blocks and funds...


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> can't tell you much about the pump, having no experience with other types of pumps. but the tubing is a good choice. Kind of stiff s it's a bit difficult to fit into tight spaces. and you'll practically have to force it over the barbs on the pump and rad side. I don't know how the sizing goes but it is a very tight fit. Do be careful that you don't damage the barbs/elbows in the process. Also, it goes without saying, the collars that came with the h320 no longer fit. so you'll either have to find new hose clamps or just use a cable tie.
> 
> Maybe i got an old batch of the promochill tubing...maybe the newer batches are more friendly, i not sure.maybe someone else could chime in?


the clamp 'issue' is definitely good to know, I'll try and get some good clamps for them, but if its a tight fit like you mention I don't think it'll be too much of a concern,

however what kind of fittings does the pump and rad use? they just standard G1/4 plastic barbs or a smaller/custom thread?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woohoo!Finally expanded my loop! Although my GPU isn't included. Still looking for compatible water blocks and funds...


all that rad space and you're only cooling CPU with an integrated pump, probably silent enough to hear the flow inside the radiators if not the pump itself... that 290 wants its share...


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> the clamp 'issue' is definitely good to know, I'll try and get some good clamps for them, but if its a tight fit like you mention I don't think it'll be too much of a concern,
> 
> however what kind of fittings does the pump and rad use? they just standard G1/4 plastic barbs or a smaller/custom thread?
> all that rad space and you're only cooling CPU with an integrated pump, probably silent enough to hear the flow inside the radiators if not the pump itself... that 290 wants its share...


The barbs on the pump and rad are non removable, so i suppose custom. that's why it's important that you don't damage the barbs or elbow joint. and it's a difficult thing to do within the confines of the case along with the primochill tubing.

Yeah, i know, my 290 feels super lonely right now...but i'll have to scrounge up some cash which will only happen in a month or two. furthermore even with all that rad, my 4790k goes to like 90+C on prime small fft...but for everything else it does totally fine.may have to delid it though sometime down the road


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> my 4790k goes to like 90+C on prime small fft...but for everything else it does totally fine.may have to delid it though sometime down the road


ok yea that's a transfer bottleneck, delidding will more than likely improve that significantly, but you might still hit the cap of the block and pump, you'd need to go for a dedicated pump like a D5 to go further otherwise.

but that's prime, like the CPU version of furmark, if it keeps quite cold on your normal uses than your cooling is adequate


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> ok yea that's be transfer bottleneck, delidding will more than likely improve that significantly, but you might still hit the cap of the block and pump, you'd need to go for a dedicated pump like a D5 to go further otherwise.
> 
> but that's prime, like the CPU version of furmark, if it keeps quite cold on your normal uses than your cooling is adequate


yeah. if the pump ever dies then i'll have it changed. though i hope not. i cant get it replaced here as the distributor seems to have gone out of business...so i have no warranty support locally.
for every day usage temps are fine..idles at mid 30s which is not too bad considering 30c ambient.


----------



## Paul17041993

I don't think that pump would die any time soon (unless you burned the thing by blocking the flow or something), its larger and better than the 1-2W ones in other AIO coolers that use 1-phase power on a plastic shaft, I don't know of the innards of this pump but I would think it has at least 2/4 phases on its ceramic shaft.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We have no plans to create at at this time. We may have something special in mind though for our new MCP50X though.


Bryan can you elaborate on this please? a possible pump top maybe, I know its not much longer now but I am seriously contemplating an MCP655PWM
especially if it's gonna be awhile before anyone produces aftermarket tops for the 50X, thanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> can't tell you much about the pump, having no experience with other types of pumps. but the tubing is a good choice. Kind of stiff s it's a bit difficult to fit into tight spaces. and you'll practically have to force it over the barbs on the pump and rad side. I don't know how the sizing goes but it is a very tight fit. Do be careful that you don't damage the barbs/elbows in the process. Also, it goes without saying, the collars that came with the h320 no longer fit. so you'll either have to find new hose clamps or just use a cable tie.
> 
> Maybe i got an old batch of the promochill tubing...maybe the newer batches are more friendly, i not sure.maybe someone else could chime in?


Actually I didnt have any problem at all using the (newer) primochill advanced LRT tubing white. I wasnt aware the swiftech clamps would no longer fit cause I didnt try to reuse them but I found these Bitspower Luxury 5/8" OD clamps and they worked perfectly









but like cephelix said you definately still wanna be careful, it helps to support the barb on the backside when pushing the tubing on. kinda hard to see the clamps in the pic


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I don't think that pump would die any time soon (unless you burned the thing by blocking the flow or something), its larger and better than the 1-2W ones in other AIO coolers that use 1-phase power on a plastic shaft, I don't know of the innards of this pump but I would think it has at least 2/4 phases on its ceramic shaft.


1-phase power?wut??lol

i just used a 16mm hose clamp used for securing aquarium hoses....
thinking whether it would be useful if i applied a little bit of silicone grease when i next change tubing...any thoughts guys?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> 1-phase power?wut??lol
> 
> i just used a 16mm hose clamp used for securing aquarium hoses....
> thinking whether it would be useful if i applied a little bit of silicone grease when i next change tubing...any thoughts guys?


I'm not sure if that would be such a great idea, grease in the loop might not go so well (a little will more than likely seep inside), and while it would help attaching the tubes it would also allow them to slip off just as easily...


----------



## cephelix

damn you for being right......lol......


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> I'm building a 350D mATX rig, and I want to use the H220X in order to watercool the computer. My Mobo is an Asus Maximus VII Gene with a 4790K. What I need to know is this:
> 
> 
> Relative to a standard "All-in-One" cooler (ie: Corsair H100i, Kraken X60, etc.,) is the "radiator + fan" part thicker than these? I ask because I do not want to have interference with any plugs / VRM / memory that I may use.
> What are the LPH, pressure, flow, etc., specs of the included pump? As of right now, I'm looking at the CoolerMaster Glacer 240L (the "US Market friendly H220 Alternative) due to its high lph flow and good AIO cooling abilities. Will the H220X be superior to this, its peer, or worse?
> Will the fact the reservoir and pump are integrated in the right-half / right-third of the radiator portion affect its usability in this case? Also, of the Swiftech Pumps that exist, which pump is this one the closest to in terms of performance? Will the pump be able to be upgraded to the upcoming MCP50X? (Or even better, a special edition MCP50X-powered H220X... I'd pay extra for that... just for the added power).
> Any help is greatly appreciated. The AIO Cooler is the reason I've halted this build; I want Swiftech to have a chance at making the awesome AIO that I know it can make / market.
> 
> Jason


I have a 350D with a Gigabyte G1 Sniper M5, I had to cut out the clips on my 8pin PSU else it would hit the radiator, looking at pictures on that board you may also end up doing the same.
The Rad/Pump placement should not be an issue for really tall DIMM's but it may block one of the optical drive bays and I have 1 hdd there installed with a bracket. I'll be getting the H220X the very moment it becomes available in my region so I'll post pictures when I have it. Hopefully with in 2 weeks or less.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I have a 350D with a Gigabyte G1 Sniper M5, I had to cut out the clips on my 8pin PSU else it would hit the radiator, looking at pictures on that board you may also end up doing the same.
> The Rad/Pump placement should not be an issue for really tall DIMM's but it may block one of the optical drive bays and I have 1 hdd there installed with a bracket. I'll be getting the H220X the very moment it becomes available in my region so I'll post pictures when I have it. Hopefully with in 2 weeks or less.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I have a 350D with a Gigabyte G1 Sniper M5, I had to cut out the clips on my 8pin PSU else it would hit the radiator, looking at pictures on that board you may also end up doing the same.
> The Rad/Pump placement should not be an issue for really tall DIMM's but it may block one of the optical drive bays and I have 1 hdd there installed with a bracket. I'll be getting the H220X the very moment it becomes available in my region so I'll post pictures when I have it. Hopefully with in 2 weeks or less.


Ah, I'm not going to have an optical drive bay for the time being. This is going to be my steam machine / Project CARS test rig. The only thing i'm concerned about is that the radiator gets too close to something like the 8pin. For RAM, i'm going GSKILL RIPJAWS DDR3-2400 (32GB of it).

Jason


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Woo hoo looking to see how much the mcp50x will be as a stand alone unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was it still planned that there will be a version that can be used on the h220? Its been a while since I have seen it mentioned.
> Bummer but hope he can look at it so it can be compared to his other data.


I can't remember which but I believe Gabe said it was $60 or $80. I do remember him saying it would be quite a bit cheaper than the MCP35X.


----------



## Radmanhs

i got myself a question, i think its air, but I'm not sure


----------



## jackalopeater

Hey guys, I have a quick question and cant find an answer anywhere.

I have an opportunity to snag a H220 for $60 BUT it's power chord has been separated from the pump housing (see pictures)

Is this an easy fix? a little soldering? or is it even worth messing with?

Thanks ahead guys, I plan on using it as a base for my cpu, gpu, and another 240mm rad from swiftech OR I'm just going to order a H320 and just use it.


----------



## Jugurnot

Is it a friend or random selling it to you? Maybe broken wires can be fixed, but is that is the only thing wrong?

If it was me, I wouldnt buy it from a random, but I would take it from a friend for free, or damn-near free, and attempt to fix it.

Thats just my opinion on the situation, maybe someone has been down this road and was able to fix it hassle free


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Okay, this is an update because I blew my top a couple months ago because of my busted h220 that I had my heart set on for over a year. Bryan was a great help and helped me get an rma even after I acted like an *******. Props for that. It could have been the pump but I doubt it. I had one of the older design and apparently they weren't the greatest . But! After receiving my new pump and reading alot, learning alot, I think the main thing was the coolant was full of crap. I mean it was chock full of pieces of black something-or-other. And I think it killed my pump. I don't know if the rad was full of stuff or the tubing (kinda doubt it) or where it came from. What I do know is I have learned to disassemble and flush. Flush like you crapped the biggest turd of your life and the girl of your dreams is coming over to spend the night. I flushed and strained, flushed and strained. Then I said hell with the HydrX, rinse rinse rinse and then put in something you know is clean. Won't say what, but it is mostly distilled and something to help it along a little. I think the rads weren't flushed properly. And it kills pumps. Cause now I'm pretty sure that my pump will last. It's quiet and smooth and everything that I wanted the h220 to be. Rambling cause it's Saturday night and I got a 6 pack. But what I'm getting at is if you get the h220 take that puppy apart. Swish and swill and make sure that thing is so clean that Jesus himself would drink from that rad. My pump is quiet (full blast) my fans are loud and at last I have the h220 that I always wanted. Thank you Brian and Swiftech. I waited a year and ordered from Canada just to get YOUR product. And it's living up to expectation. Check that fluid. Flush those rads. Cause your **** is the bomb but something messed up that first batch and I don't want to see that happen to the h220x. IF this post screws my chances of an rma should this thing blow up again...... well I hope not. Cause Swiftech is a name I like saying is in my rig.


----------



## jackalopeater

Thanks man, I was kinda leaning that way but just wanted to test the waters to see if it's a pretty common thing to fix. Since I don't know the guy I'll be ordering me a new H320 this week!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question and cant find an answer anywhere.
> 
> I have an opportunity to snag a H220 for $60 BUT it's power chord has been separated from the pump housing (see pictures)
> 
> Is this an easy fix? a little soldering? or is it even worth messing with?
> 
> Thanks ahead guys, I plan on using it as a base for my cpu, gpu, and another 240mm rad from swiftech OR I'm just going to order a H320 and just use it.


Not enough wire there to fix unfortunately. BUT if you plan on getting one to expand upon, and can talk him down to $40-50 since the damage is irreparable, and it includes all the pieces, you can buy it and an MCP50X, take the top off the 50X, and put it in place of that damaged pump, and you'd have an H220 with a much more powerful pump for larger loops. The 50X is going to be around $60 when it's released IIRC. The 35X will not fit the H220 block but the 50X will.


----------



## Jugurnot

On closer inspection of the wires it looks burnt. I would not buy, ever.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> On closer inspection of the wires it looks burnt. I would not buy, ever.


Burnt or not burnt, the pump is irreparable. It would have to be replaced. But if you wait till the MCP50X drops, you could put it on the H220 water block and have a full H220 with a stronger pump.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Okay, this is an update because I blew my top a couple months ago because of my busted h220 that I had my heart set on for over a year. Bryan was a great help and helped me get an rma even after I acted like an *******. Props for that. It could have been the pump but I doubt it. I had one of the older design and apparently they weren't the greatest . But! After receiving my new pump and reading alot, learning alot, I think the main thing was the coolant was full of crap. I mean it was chock full of pieces of black something-or-other. And I think it killed my pump. I don't know if the rad was full of stuff or the tubing (kinda doubt it) or where it came from. What I do know is I have learned to disassemble and flush. Flush like you crapped the biggest turd of your life and the girl of your dreams is coming over to spend the night. I flushed and strained, flushed and strained. Then I said hell with the HydrX, rinse rinse rinse and then put in something you know is clean. Won't say what, but it is mostly distilled and something to help it along a little. I think the rads weren't flushed properly. And it kills pumps. Cause now I'm pretty sure that my pump will last. It's quiet and smooth and everything that I wanted the h220 to be. Rambling cause it's Saturday night and I got a 6 pack. But what I'm getting at is if you get the h220 take that puppy apart. Swish and swill and make sure that thing is so clean that Jesus himself would drink from that rad. My pump is quiet (full blast) my fans are loud and at last I have the h220 that I always wanted. Thank you Brian and Swiftech. I waited a year and ordered from Canada just to get YOUR product. And it's living up to expectation. Check that fluid. Flush those rads. Cause your **** is the bomb but something messed up that first batch and I don't want to see that happen to the h220x. IF this post screws my chances of an rma should this thing blow up again...... well I hope not. Cause Swiftech is a name I like saying is in my rig.


Dude.......by no means have i read this whole monster thread, but I think i remember that err....meltdown o.0

Really glad your issues were resolved, and even happier your faith in Swiftech was restored by your experience!

H220X will be my first Swiftech product, and it's stories like yours that gives me the utmost faith in that purchase


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Burnt or not burnt, the pump is irreparable. It would have to be replaced. But if you wait till the MCP50X drops, you could put it on the H220 water block and have a full H220 with a stronger pump.


Im sure someone could dismantle it and repair it if they really wanted to.


----------



## sdmf74

Question: what if I were to plug say a 2000rpm fan into cha 1 of the swiftech 8-way splitter and plug a 3000rpm fan into one of the other channels. Would they run at the same rpm up to a certain speed or would the faster fan always be spinning faster?


----------



## Mega Man

no, they run at the same PWM curve, which does not equal same rpm


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, they run at the same PWM curve, which does not equal same rpm


That's kinda what I figured so I could have fans that are much louder than others when all are hooked up to the splitter. I'll have to use multiple PWM splitters or spend $140 on fans then


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> That's kinda what I figured so I could have fans that are much louder than others when all are hooked up to the splitter. I'll have to use multiple PWM splitters or spend $140 on fans then


Even multiple splitters will give you the same result unless you have two seperate pwm channels to work with. So your motherboard would need to have two independent pwm channels or you could add a fan controller with pwm controls. The aquaero 5lt has one pwm channel and voltage control on the other channels. It runs around $70, so not terribly expensive. Or if you need more, go all out with an aquaero 6, with all channels pwm, but at almost triple the price.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I know ill need another PWM I'm waiting on the M7F, all fan outputs are pwm. I been considering an aquero 6 but kinda don't want a fan controller. I may just get one of those akasa pwm splitters (3-way) with sata and use the rest on board, and the 8_way until I can afford all 10 or 11 matching fans


----------



## gdubc

I forgot you mentioned that about getting that board. If you ever need it, the aquaero 5lt is a lot of fan controller for the $.


----------



## sdmf74

Right on. Still wondering What Brian was talking about when he said that They will Have something special for the MCP50X he never elaborated on it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Right on. Still wondering What Brian was talking about when he said that They will Have something special for the MCP50X he never elaborated on it


I can't go into any further detail regarding the MCP50X than I already have. I'm almost certain that it will be compatible with our current H220 and be able to serve as a pump upgrade for the H220X as well. I'll confirm that tomorrow when I get back into work, but I'm fairly certain that that was the plan.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Im sure someone could dismantle it and repair it if they really wanted to.


We're computer mechanic and know how to repair electrical devices, but this Swiftech pump at that burnt wire stage is irreparable, unless somecells have made a way to get safely and cleanly past that hardened epoxy, which the electronics are filled within pump inside.

The H220 pump is *NOT* friendly pump for electrical repairing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Right on. Still wondering What Brian was talking about when he said that They will Have something special for the MCP50X he never elaborated on it
> 
> 
> 
> I can't go into any further detail regarding the MCP50X than I already have. I'm almost certain that it will be compatible with our current H220 and be able to serve as a pump upgrade for the H220X as well. I'll confirm that tomorrow when I get back into work, but I'm fairly certain that that was the plan.
Click to expand...

this was confirmed in this thread by the engineer at swiftech. On mobile and for the life of me can't remember his name. Sorry.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this was confirmed in this thread by the engineer at swiftech. On mobile and for the life of me can't remember his name. Sorry.


If Stephen said that these were going to be compatible with the H220X and the previous H220 and H320, then he would know what he's talking about. He designed these pumps. I'm pretty sure that's what he told me as well, I just wanted to talk with him tomorrow to confirm it.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We're computer mechanic and know how to repair electrical devices, but this Swiftech pump at that burnt wire stage is irreparable, unless somecells have made a way to get safely and cleanly past that hardened epoxy, which the electronics are filled within pump inside.
> 
> The H220 pump is NOT friendly pump for electrical repairing.


Thanks for the info! Its always nice to get information directly from someone who has first hand experience with the pump. I would bet the subject has been touched before in this thread.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question and cant find an answer anywhere.
> 
> I have an opportunity to snag a H220 for $60 BUT it's power chord has been separated from the pump housing (see pictures)
> 
> Is this an easy fix? a little soldering? or is it even worth messing with?
> 
> Thanks ahead guys, I plan on using it as a base for my cpu, gpu, and another 240mm rad from swiftech OR I'm just going to order a H320 and just use it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Not enough wire there to fix unfortunately. BUT if you plan on getting one to expand upon, and can talk him down to $40-50 since the damage is irreparable, and it includes all the pieces, you can buy it and an MCP50X, take the top off the 50X, and put it in place of that damaged pump, and you'd have an H220 with a much more powerful pump for larger loops. The 50X is going to be around $60 when it's released IIRC. The 35X will not fit the H220 block but the 50X will.


Id say its still repairable, but provided you're good with soldering and basic electronics.

and a note for any PWM questions, PWM is just another channel that behaves similar to raw voltage control, however uses a clock signal to send a kind of binary code and gives greater control accuracy, normally ranging from 20% to 100% power, no signal being 100% to full signal being 20%, the actual RPM range is determined by the fans themselves.

unfortunately no way to split a PWM signal in a way that you can give each device a different %, you would need to re-generate the signal, so if you wanted to adjust one set you'll have to undervolt it or use a different controller (don't undervolt the pump though unless you know what you're doing)


----------



## sdmf74

I figured that was the case about the pump, I understand you not being able to leek that info to us at this time, I guess we will find out soon enough though. Maybe if im lucky the new pump and my new motherboard will both drop at the same time ,like Tuesday or something.. That would be nice since they are the only things left to buy aside from a res and a few smaller items. It's those damn smaller items that seem to add up though.

Thanks for the PWM info guys, I figured that was the case just wanted confirmation I guess. REps+

I'm having the hardest time deciding on a new res, I was gonna get a bay res but with my new caselabs case I will have plenty of room for a tube res. Anyone here had experience with both the Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 and the EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 ? Which one is better?

I think it will look best if I mount the res and pump seperate and maybe mount the res on a Attachment Plate - Large .75" Offset using the Horizontal Accessory Mount and mount the pump in the bottom of the case somewhere (that's why I was curious about wether the new pump will have a pump top and a mounting bracket at the time of release)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> True.
> 
> The housing that's on the MCP50X is 100% compatible with the pump that came with H220. If we (or third parties) decide to sell after market tops for the MCP50X, then you could install these tops on the H220 pump.


Here you guys go ^^^.


----------



## Mega Man

* prays for a MCP350x2


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> Id say its still repairable, but provided you're good with soldering and basic electronics.


Except that there's no enough lead to solder to, and you'd have to dig out the epoxy around the electronic portion of the pump to get further onto the leads, so not likely a reparable job for 99% of people.


----------



## nuklearwax

So the pump on my H220, that I got back in March, seems to have died. I tried pluging in the pump into different palces and still can't get it to turn on. As you can imangine I can't even get to the Windows load-up screen before it shuts down running an FX-9370. Shound I tear apart the pump to see if I can fix it or just RMA it. Second if I do tear it apart will that void the warranty? Thanks!


----------



## Roxxas049

Yes it will void the warranty. The only way to do this without voiding the warranty would be to set up a skype conference with Bramsli so he can walk you through the disassembly and reassembly of the pump.


----------



## nuklearwax

Well if tearing it apart voids the warranty then RMA it is. Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nuklearwax*
> 
> Well if tearing it apart voids the warranty then RMA it is. Thanks!


I can walk you through the process of taking it apart and putting it back together. It doesn't take that long. Just PM me and we can set up a time to do this.


----------



## Radmanhs

I was told to come here, does anyone know why my pump is so loud?


----------



## nuklearwax

Ok cool. Thanks Bramsli!


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I was told to come here, does anyone know why my pump is so loud?


Possibly a defective pump, Mine sounded exactly like that and I could never fix it, Bram sent a replacement pump and with in 1 try it was very silent, from that point on I honestly dont believe its just trapped air as mine was vibrating so much.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I was told to come here, does anyone know why my pump is so loud?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Possibly a defective pump, Mine sounded exactly like that and I could never fix it, Bram sent a replacement pump and with in 1 try it was very silent, from that point on I honestly dont believe its just trapped air as mine was vibrating so much.
Click to expand...

uhhh, this is the second pump I've had problems with in a rowI really don't want to have to remove it because it's less than a fingernail gap between that rad and the one for my gpu >.<


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Except that there's no enough lead to solder to, and you'd have to dig out the epoxy around the electronic portion of the pump to get further onto the leads, so not likely a reparable job for 99% of people.


stripping and re-wiring PCBs is something I'm completely capable of provided I have the necessary equipment at hand, so yea.

still agree about the 99% though, but there's nothing stopping you trying if you want to, most of the time the epoxy just pry's off with controlled use of longnose pliers and you don't necessarily have to replace it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I was told to come here, does anyone know why my pump is so loud?


that be shaft knocking by the sounds of it, but make sure there's nothing else around it making the noise, take it out of the case and run it by itself to be sure, even try multiple angles (don't run it dry though!).

I would recommend RMA as it means the shaft will just get worse and eventually fail.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> stripping and re-wiring PCBs is something I'm completely capable of provided I have the necessary equipment at hand, so yea.
> 
> still agree about the 99% though, but there's nothing stopping you trying if you want to, most of the time the epoxy just pry's off with controlled use of longnose pliers and you don't necessarily have to replace it.
> that be shaft knocking by the sounds of it, but make sure there's nothing else around it making the noise, take it out of the case and run it by itself to be sure, even try multiple angles (don't run it dry though!).
> 
> I would recommend RMA as it means the shaft will just get worse and eventually fail.


Stripping wires and rewiring is easy, that's not the point. That pump has no length on the lead length at all coming out of the pump to strip. You would have to attempt to dig out the leads from inside the pump, which is filled with a hard epoxy. Getting the epoxy out without tearing up the wires to get lead length would be damn near impossible is what I'm saying. There's plenty of lead length at the other end, but the pump not so much.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I'm having the hardest time deciding on a new res, I was gonna get a bay res but with my new caselabs case I will have plenty of room for a tube res. Anyone here had experience with both the Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 and the EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 ? Which one is better?
> 
> I think it will look best if I mount the res and pump seperate and maybe mount the res on a Attachment Plate - Large .75" Offset using the Horizontal Accessory Mount and mount the pump in the bottom of the case somewhere (that's why I was curious about wether the new pump will have a pump top and a mounting bracket at the time of release)


I have both reservoirs and they are basically the same. The ek has more ports and I like the look a little better, but bitspower has new updated z tank reservoirs with a vent plug included. Another thing I like about the new z tubes is there are more tube sizes available than the ek. The difference between the ek 250 and the ek 150 is pretty big, and the bitspower gives you the 200 option.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have both reservoirs and they are basically the same. The ek has more ports and I like the look a little better, but bitspower has new updated z tank reservoirs with a vent plug included. Another thing I like about the new z tubes is there are more tube sizes available than the ek. The difference between the ek 250 and the ek 150 is pretty big, and the bitspower gives you the 200 option.


Do you think the vent would make a difference at all? And Is its purpose to help with bleeding the system.
Also What Is the best white fluid.
I dont suppose They Have a white dye to add to dist water, Im afraid it wont look right with white tubing and clear water in the tank. Thanx


----------



## ganzosrevenge

@BramSLI1:

Any goodies arrive @ Swiftech for us to order?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> @BramSLI1:
> 
> Any goodies arrive @ Swiftech for us to order?


I'll post here as soon as they become available.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Do you think the vent would make a difference at all? And Is its purpose to help with bleeding the system.
> Also What Is the best white fluid.
> I dont suppose They Have a white dye to add to dist water, Im afraid it wont look right with white tubing and clear water in the tank. Thanx


Mayhems Pastel Ice White. You have to be very diligent with cleaning the rad out though. The pH is very important, if your loop gets acidic it will mess with the color. This is mostly a problem with Alphacool/Phobya rads which come very, very dirty from the factory.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Stripping wires and rewiring is easy, that's not the point. That pump has no length on the lead length at all coming out of the pump to strip. You would have to attempt to dig out the leads from inside the pump, which is filled with a hard epoxy. Getting the epoxy out without tearing up the wires to get lead length would be damn near impossible is what I'm saying. There's plenty of lead length at the other end, but the pump not so much.


I never said anything about wires still attached to the PCB, even if there were enough wire still attached Id cut them off and just solder the cable (or an entirely new one) directly to the PCB.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I never said anything about wires still attached to the PCB, even if there were enough wire still attached Id cut them off and just solder the cable (or an entirely new one) directly to the PCB.


That's fair







. It would still be a huge pita to get the epoxy off the PCB though without damaging it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have both reservoirs and they are basically the same. The ek has more ports and I like the look a little better, but bitspower has new updated z tank reservoirs with a vent plug included. Another thing I like about the new z tubes is there are more tube sizes available than the ek. The difference between the ek 250 and the ek 150 is pretty big, and the bitspower gives you the 200 option.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think the vent would make a difference at all? And Is its purpose to help with bleeding the system.
> Also What Is the best white fluid.
> I dont suppose They Have a white dye to add to dist water, Im afraid it wont look right with white tubing and clear water in the tank. Thanx
Click to expand...

would not recommend dyes however

mayhems as mentioned.

it looks great but also
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I never said anything about wires still attached to the PCB, even if there were enough wire still attached Id cut them off and just solder the cable (or an entirely new one) directly to the PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's fair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It would still be a huge pita to get the epoxy off the PCB though without damaging it.
Click to expand...

pretty sure he covered this when he talked about removing epoxy


----------



## DarthElvis

2nd dead pump in 7 months. Not impressed at all. I'm lucky systems have thermal shutdown these days. No warning, nothing, just dead. RMA time again. I should get one put on hold for me in January when the new will be due to fail. Good thing I can drive to NCIX.

I'd just buy an apogee II and replace the pump, but I'm getting kind of gunshy on Swiftech.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> would not recommend dyes however
> 
> mayhems as mentioned.
> 
> it looks great but also
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/


man that tri-loop rig looks great in its own way despite its very noobish look, Id imagine a lot of the centrifuge effect could have come from the fill tubes as well as the pumps.

does make me want to go for straight silverwater though over coolant, UV reaction in just the tubes themselves is good enough for me.


----------



## EarlZ

Ive had a kit, impeller and 2 pump replacements in total. The latest ome i got was the pump that comes with the h220x. A change in impeller design and one added washer as far as i could tell and sata power


----------



## Conditioned

I´ve been on the vendors depicted on your page and none of them sell the h220. This is for europe. Where can I get one?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

There's a Countdown Timer up!!!

Swiftech H220X Timer - Homepage

If today is Tuesday, and it's 3 Days and change, Saturday 12am EDT we can start ordeirng!


----------



## EarlZ

Im pretty excited! I hope they also ship to the Philippines distributor on the same day !


----------



## ganzosrevenge

How much will it be @ release?


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ive had a kit, impeller and 2 pump replacements in total. The latest ome i got was the pump that comes with the h220x. A change in impeller design and one added washer as far as i could tell and sata power


can you upload some pics?
it sounds quite unlikely that the h220x pumps will be backwards compatible with h220


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> can you upload some pics?
> it sounds quite unlikely that the h220x pumps will be backwards compatible with h220


Yes there are. The new MCP50X pump will also be backwards compatible with the H220 as well as our new H220X kit.


----------



## Moridin

Is there absolutely no way to get a Swiftech H320 in the US? I've been looking around for a closed loop no maintenance AIO that has a 360mm radiator and this seems like the best option.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
> pretty sure he covered this when he talked about removing epoxy


My bad


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthElvis*
> 
> 2nd dead pump in 7 months. Not impressed at all. I'm lucky systems have thermal shutdown these days. No warning, nothing, just dead. RMA time again. I should get one put on hold for me in January when the new will be due to fail. Good thing I can drive to NCIX.
> 
> I'd just buy an apogee II and replace the pump, but I'm getting kind of gunshy on Swiftech.


How are you plugging in your pumps? Sorry to hear about your troubles; contact Bryan and I'm sure he can help you get this sorted out. On a separate note, I've had 2 APD2s and neither have had any issues. They use a Laiing based DDC pump. I had an H220 that would stop randomly with the original design impeller, but Bryan sent me the rev 2.0 impeller and I had no problems with it after that. I would ask Bryan to skype with you about dissassembling the pump (very easy, 6 screws total IIRC) to see if it is clogged before submitting it for RMA, but that is up to you. If you skype with Bryan about taking it apart and cleaning it, your warrantee will remain intact even with taking it apart, and it could possibly get your system up and running again with much less downtime.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes there are. The new MCP50X pump will also be backwards compatible with the H220 as well as our new H220X kit.


And swiftech is giving out h220 RMA replacements with the upgraded h220x pump?
Thats really all I need as I prefer regular radiator over the bulky res/rad


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> And swiftech is giving out h220 RMA replacements with the upgraded h220x pump?
> Thats really all I need as I prefer regular radiator over the bulky res/rad


The regular H220 has a res inside its rad, the H220X has a pump and res inside its rad JSYK.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

@Bram:

can we find out its release price, and some ideas on specs (ie: fan rpms, pump rpms / lph)?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> @Bram:
> 
> can we find out its release price, and some ideas on specs (ie: fan rpms, pump rpms / lph)?


I'll try to provide as much information about this tomorrow when I get in.


----------



## DarthElvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> How are you plugging in your pumps? Sorry to hear about your troubles; contact Bryan and I'm sure he can help you get this sorted out. On a separate note, I've had 2 APD2s and neither have had any issues. They use a Laiing based DDC pump. I had an H220 that would stop randomly with the original design impeller, but Bryan sent me the rev 2.0 impeller and I had no problems with it after that. I would ask Bryan to skype with you about dissassembling the pump (very easy, 6 screws total IIRC) to see if it is clogged before submitting it for RMA, but that is up to you. If you skype with Bryan about taking it apart and cleaning it, your warrantee will remain intact even with taking it apart, and it could possibly get your system up and running again with much less downtime.


Pluged in via the 8way splitter to the CPU, with the fans on a separate 8 way to the cpu-opt header. both plugged into sata power of course. Bryan already answered what questions I had via e-mail at the Swiftech site (very quick BTW, always impressive service which is why I'm giving it a 3rd chance ). It has already been RMA'd, seeing as how it takes me 20min. to drive to NCIX and do the exchange (no issues, didn't even need the packaging, just took the unit and the paste and let them keep the box and other bits and bobs).

Hopefully the 3rd times the charm as the unit works very well up to the point of failure. If this one fails, then I'll look into other options (APD2 sounds viable, and am interested at this point). I also have a micro res kicking around I'll add to the loop this weekend, just to be on the safe side. I really wish there was a way to tell if I had the 2.0 impeller on these things, maybe NCIX is flogging old stock. If thats the case, I'll probably see them in Oct/Nov for another exchange.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Is there absolutely no way to get a Swiftech H320 in the US? I've been looking around for a closed loop no maintenance AIO that has a 360mm radiator and this seems like the best option.


NCIX


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthElvis*
> 
> Pluged in via the 8way splitter to the CPU, with the fans on a separate 8 way to the cpu-opt header. both plugged into sata power of course. Bryan already answered what questions I had via e-mail at the Swiftech site (very quick BTW, always impressive service which is why I'm giving it a 3rd chance ). It has already been RMA'd, seeing as how it takes me 20min. to drive to NCIX and do the exchange (no issues, didn't even need the packaging, just took the unit and the paste and let them keep the box and other bits and bobs).
> 
> Hopefully the 3rd times the charm as the unit works very well up to the point of failure. If this one fails, then I'll look into other options (APD2 sounds viable, and am interested at this point). I also have a micro res kicking around I'll add to the loop this weekend, just to be on the safe side. I really wish there was a way to tell if I had the 2.0 impeller on these things, maybe NCIX is flogging old stock. If thats the case, I'll probably see them in Oct/Nov for another exchange.


Don't quote me on this, because I may be wrong, but you might contact Bryan ,explain the situation, and see if you can set up a Skype appointment with him anyway, so you can open the pump and check for yourself without killing your warranty. And ask him at that time if he can get you the updated impeller if it is in fact the old design. The old design has a single small hole for air purging, while the newer ones have 3 much larger holes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthElvis*
> 
> Pluged in via the 8way splitter to the CPU, with the fans on a separate 8 way to the cpu-opt header. both plugged into sata power of course. Bryan already answered what questions I had via e-mail at the Swiftech site (very quick BTW, always impressive service which is why I'm giving it a 3rd chance ). It has already been RMA'd, seeing as how it takes me 20min. to drive to NCIX and do the exchange (no issues, didn't even need the packaging, just took the unit and the paste and let them keep the box and other bits and bobs).
> 
> Hopefully the 3rd times the charm as the unit works very well up to the point of failure. If this one fails, then I'll look into other options (APD2 sounds viable, and am interested at this point). I also have a micro res kicking around I'll add to the loop this weekend, just to be on the safe side. I really wish there was a way to tell if I had the 2.0 impeller on these things, maybe NCIX is flogging old stock. If thats the case, I'll probably see them in Oct/Nov for another exchange.


Please PM me if you need any assistance.


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NCIX


Thanks a bunch, appreciate it.

I have a couple questions about this cooler if someone wouldn't mind answering.

- On the NCIX site, it says under the overview for the H320 *"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H320 CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."* Does this mean, even though I never plan to expand the loop or open it at all, I'd still have to perform maintenance and refill the loop every few years?

- Does the pump in the H320 suffer the same problems as the H220?

- EDIT: Also, are the stock fans removable?


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Thanks a bunch, appreciate it.
> 
> I have a couple questions about this cooler if someone wouldn't mind answering.
> 
> - On the NCIX site, it says under the overview for the H320 *"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H320 CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."* Does this mean, even though I never plan to expand the loop or open it at all, I'd still have to perform maintenance and refill the loop every few years?
> 
> - Does the pump in the H320 suffer the same problems as the H220?
> 
> - EDIT: Also, are the stock fans removable?


Yes its the same pump, and the fans are removable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NCIX
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch, appreciate it.
> 
> I have a couple questions about this cooler if someone wouldn't mind answering.
> 
> - On the NCIX site, it says under the overview for the H320 *"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H320 CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."* Does this mean, even though I never plan to expand the loop or open it at all, I'd still have to perform maintenance and refill the loop every few years?
> 
> - Does the pump in the H320 suffer the same problems as the H220?
> 
> - EDIT: Also, are the stock fans removable?
Click to expand...

sometimes it is necessary but it is very basic maint, yes it can have the same problems, however take the problems in here with a grain of salt, swiftech says only #% of items are rmaed i have not had any issues for well over a year

yes it is the same pump,


----------



## ganzosrevenge

@Bram,

what's the lph / rpm specs?

(eagerly looking forward to order time)


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> I never said anything about wires still attached to the PCB, even if there were enough wire still attached Id cut them off and just solder the cable (or an entirely new one) directly to the PCB.


We did some more "hands on" research about the possibility to solder the wires to the PCB of the H220.



So, even if youcells manage to get some epoxy away without breaking something on the way, there is still limited space to work with soldering pencil, more precisely, if the soldering folios on the PCB are under the PCB and wires go through the PCB.

This pump is no Laing DDC, where the PCB is on top and it's soldering folios are extremely easy to access.

And the way how this shortcut happens to the pump wires and they totally melt away, indicates also that something may have happened to the PCB electronics, so even if you manage somehow to repair the wires, there is still great change that the pump won't work.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Thanks a bunch, appreciate it.
> 
> I have a couple questions about this cooler if someone wouldn't mind answering.
> 
> - On the NCIX site, it says under the overview for the H320 *"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H320 CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."* Does this mean, even though I never plan to expand the loop or open it at all, I'd still have to perform maintenance and refill the loop every few years?
> 
> - Does the pump in the H320 suffer the same problems as the H220?
> 
> - EDIT: Also, are the stock fans removable?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sometimes it is necessary but it is very basic maint, yes it can have the same problems, however take the problems in here with a grain of salt, swiftech says only #% of items are rmaed i have not had any issues for well over a year
> 
> yes it is the same pump,


Also worth noting that if I'm not mistaken, all of the H320s use the later rev 2.0 impeller.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Also worth noting that if I'm not mistaken, all of the H320s use the later rev 2.0 impeller.


This is true, but it's slightly different from the impeller that's being made for the new pump in the H220X. These impellers aren't compatible with each other either so it won't be possible to send out impeller replacements for the older pump design prior to the H220X pump.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true, but it's slightly different from the impeller that's being made for the new pump in the H220X. These impellers aren't compatible with each other either so it won't be possible to send out impeller replacements for the older pump design prior to the H220X pump.


will faulty 220/320 pumps be replaced with the h220x pump through rma then?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is true, but it's slightly different from the impeller that's being made for the new pump in the H220X. These impellers aren't compatible with each other either so it won't be possible to send out impeller replacements for the older pump design prior to the H220X pump.


With re: to h220x, you had said you'd find out the pump specs. What are they?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> With re: to h220x, you had said you'd find out the pump specs. What are they?


I'm sorry that I haven't been able to get these yet and our engineer has left for the day. I've been running around trying to get everything sent off for reviews and I completely forgot about the pump specs. I know that it runs at 3000 RPM, but I don't know the other requested information. I'll try to remember to get it tomorrow.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We did some more "hands on" research about the possibility to solder the wires to the PCB of the H220.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, even if youcells manage to get some epoxy away without breaking something on the way, there is still limited space to work with soldering pencil, more precisely, if the soldering folios on the PCB are under the PCB and wires go through the PCB.
> 
> This pump is no Laing DDC, where the PCB is on top and it's soldering folios are extremely easy to access.
> 
> And the way how this shortcut happens to the pump wires and they totally melt away, indicates also that something may have happened to the PCB electronics, so even if you manage somehow to repair the wires, there is still great change that the pump won't work.


oooohhhh its more of a sealed-unit than I thought it was, and yea, if those wires burned off like it looks like it did than more then likely the PCB is completely shot and there's no real way to repair it without a complete re-build of the unit...

whats under the PCB though? another layer of plastic and/or epoxy or exposed solder joints? if the joints are exposed that's where I would test it if it has indeed shorted somewhere or the wires just snapped off somehow.


----------



## EarlZ

The impeller has gone through 3 revs I think, the first impeller came with a small single hole, the first rev came with 3 larger holes, the second came with the original smaller hole and the 3 larger holes and the last one has changes on the the magnet where the balance is held, 1 extra washer from what I could tell which is the h220x pump.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry that I haven't been able to get these yet and our engineer has left for the day. I've been running around trying to get everything sent off for reviews and I completely forgot about the pump specs. I know that it runs at 3000 RPM, but I don't know the other requested information. I'll try to remember to get it tomorrow.


Can you tell us who is receiving review samples so we can keep an eye out? Or is that on a need to know basis?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Can you tell us who is receiving review samples so we can keep an eye out? Or is that on a need to know basis?


I'll see if I can compile a list and post it tomorrow. Off of the top of my head I know that Thom's Hardware, Tweaktown, Tech of Tomorrow, and HiTech Legion will be getting these. I'll try to have a full list tomorrow when I get a chance to compile it.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> whats under the PCB though? another layer of plastic and/or epoxy or exposed solder joints? if the joints are exposed that's where I would test it if it has indeed shorted somewhere or the wires just snapped off somehow.


We saw some white elastic polyurethane sealant/adhesive that glues/seals the PCB straight to the plastic housing top:



So the PCB is straight under that sealant area, and that can't be cut open any way. So the access to the solder points is kind of "locked" from every direction.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry that I haven't been able to get these yet and our engineer has left for the day. I've been running around trying to get everything sent off for reviews and I completely forgot about the pump specs. I know that it runs at 3000 RPM, but I don't know the other requested information. I'll try to remember to get it tomorrow.


Not a problem. I hope the reviewers like it just as both the H220 and the 240L were held in high esteem... the pump's power and ability to handle larger loops, no doubt, is a big part of this "love".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll see if I can compile a list and post it tomorrow. Off of the top of my head I know that Thom's Hardware, Tweaktown, Tech of Tomorrow, and HiTech Legion will be getting these. I'll try to have a full list tomorrow when I get a chance to compile it.


Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Not a problem. I hope the reviewers like it just as both the H220 and the 240L were held in high esteem... the pump's power and ability to handle larger loops, no doubt, is a big part of this "love".
> Thanks!


OK, in addition to the reviewers that were mentioned previously these will also be reviewed by the following:

BundyMania in Germany
Xtremehardware.com in Italy
NCIX in Canada
Comptoir-hardware.com in France
Timmytechtv.com in the US

I think this is all of them so far.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Linus + Swiftech = geekgasm.


----------



## BramSLI1

Oh, and there is one more that I was saving for last.

Our own Phelan, the OP of this thread, will be reviewing one as well and it appears that he's going to be giving it away when he finishes the review.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Oh, and there is one more that I was saving for last.
> 
> Our own Phelan, the OP of this thread, will be reviewing one as well and it appears that he's going to be giving it away when he finishes the review.


----------



## Phelan

Really excited about the H220X. Gabe called me yesterday and discussed the new unit as well as some other things pertaining to the H220 club.

Not only will there be an H220X given away here on OCN in the coming weeks, but there is some other pleasant surprises planned as well, that you will find out soon







. I will also post a link to buy it on Swiftech's site here in the thread and in the OP when the product goes live for purchase.

Gabe wanted to express to the group that while he was greatly saddened by the fact that he had to delay the product this long, he wanted to bring the absolute best product he could to the table without alienating the early adopters. They found a possible issue late in the testing phase that only affected a few of the units, which is what engineering testing is for, but he wanted to make sure the issue was completely killed before deploying the unit en masse, which as we've seen, takes time. While the H220 is a fully capable unit, the H220X is the next logical advancement, and is well ahead of the curve not only in the pump refinements, but also in the CPU block as well. With the use of the Apogee XL, flow has been improved by 10% while also gaining a full 1*C advantage over the previous Apogee HD, which was already a top performer. Those changes work with the other changes to the H220X to really distance it from its competitors.

Keep an eye out for the upcoming developments posted in this thread!


----------



## Phelan

BTW.......

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRYAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Oh, and there is one more that I was saving for last.
> 
> Our own Phelan, the OP of this thread, will be reviewing one as well and it appears that he's going to be giving it away when he finishes the review.


AWESOME!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Really excited about the H220X. Gabe called me yesterday and discussed the new unit as well as some other things pertaining to the H220 club.
> 
> Not only will there be an H220X given away here on OCN in the coming weeks, but there is some other pleasant surprises planned as well, that you will find out soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will also post a link to buy here in the thread and the OP when the product goes live for purchase.
> 
> Gabe wanted to express to the group that while he was greatly saddened by the fact that he had to delay the product this long, he wanted to bring the absolute best product he could to the table without alienating the early adopters. They found a possible issue late in the testing phase that only affected a few of the units, which is what engineering testing is for, but he wanted to make sure the issue was completely killed before deploying the unit en masse, which as we've seen, takes time. While the H220 is a fully capable unit, the H220X is the next logical advancement, and is well ahead of the curve not only in the pump refinements, but also in the CPU block as well. With the use of the Apogee XL, flow has been improved by 10% while also gaining a full 1*C advantage over the previous Apogee HD, which was already a top performer. Those changes work with the other changes to the H220X to really distance it from its competitors.
> 
> Keep an eye out for the upcoming developments posted in this thread!


A link to the swiftech store from when the product goes live, i assume... or is OCN an official H220X reseller?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> BTW.......
> 
> HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRYAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!


HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

ps: looking at the h220x, it seems like an absolute monster.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> AWESOME!
> A link to the swiftech store from when the product goes live, i assume... or is OCN an official H220X reseller?
> HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
> 
> ps: looking at the h220x, it seems like an absolute monster.


Link in the thread to the product on Swiftech's website.


----------



## Pahani

Ohh, nice....Happy Birthday Bryan!!


----------



## ganzosrevenge

The LPH of the pump (I'm buying a cooler this weekend, so if I know, I'm ordering ASAP)









(it'll look awesome in an mATX build)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> The LPH of the pump (I'm buying a cooler this weekend, so if I know, I'm ordering ASAP)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (it'll look awesome in an mATX build)


I don't believe we actually did an LPH test for this pump, but it's very similar to the previous H220. I think it is capable of a little more head pressure though. That's from the testing that I've done on both kits because I've become very familiar with both of them.


----------



## EarlZ

Cannot wait!!


----------



## 66racer

Wow great news!

Also want to wish you a happy birthday Bryan! Thanks for all the support you provide in here


----------



## cephelix

really? if it's true, happy birthday then bryan!!!


----------



## EarlZ

Happy birthday brian! Thanks for the support even though Im an overseas customer!


----------



## virus86

I'm getting my H320 today to replace my H110. Has anyone done an unboxing? I haven't found an English speaking one.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus86*
> 
> I'm getting my H320 today to replace my H110. Has anyone done an unboxing? I haven't found an English speaking one.


\

Just do it







.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Awesome news on the H220X. Looking forward to the reviews b/c I plan on purchasing one. It will be my first AIO Cooler.


----------



## Jugurnot

I used to be grateful that my h220 was working perfectly but im thinking that it isnt the case anymore. Just a few questions to help conduct my own diagnosing first....

What is the lowest rpm this pump will run? And is there any problem with running at minimum speed? I use speedfan to control my pump and fans running off the splitter.

I heard the pump should be inaudible at min speed, is this correct?

Im at work right now so i cant do anything at the moment, but at aprox 2000-2150 rpm my pump makes quite a racket. After 2200 rpm the noise completely goes away and i can hear just a faint clicking. I can stop the fans breifly to make sure the noise is from the pump and not from the fans.

Tonight ill get an audio/video recording and post it.

Thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I used to be grateful that my h220 was working perfectly but im thinking that it isnt the case anymore. Just a few questions to help conduct my own diagnosing first....
> 
> What is the lowest rpm this pump will run? And is there any problem with running at minimum speed? I use speedfan to control my pump and fans running off the splitter.
> 
> I heard the pump should be inaudible at min speed, is this correct?
> 
> Im at work right now so i cant do anything at the moment, but at aprox 2000-2150 rpm my pump makes quite a racket. After 2200 rpm the noise completely goes away and i can hear just a faint clicking. I can stop the fans breifly to make sure the noise is from the pump and not from the fans.
> 
> Tonight ill get an audio/video recording and post it.
> 
> Thanks.


Minimum pump is speed is 0% on the PWM signal, which is 1200 rpm. It won't affect the pump at all to run at this speed but if your loop is expanded it may hurt your temps substantially.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Minimum pump is speed is 0% on the PWM signal, which is 1200 rpm. It won't affect the pump at all to run at this speed but if your loop is expanded it may hurt your temps substantially.


Ok ill check later today to see if I can make the pump get to that speed, but I think it only gets to about 1900 rpm at roughly 35% setting. Any less than 35% there is no difference


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Ok ill check later today to see if I can make the pump get to that speed, but I think it only gets to about 1900 rpm at roughly 35% setting. Any less than 35% there is no difference


Also, if your mobo's bios is anything like mine. The fan speed you set is in correlation with the temp. So for mine I have it at 30cº @ 0% speed then for load 70cº @ 100% speed. So as my temp rises the pump speed increases. Usually my pump is around 2000 rpm when im playing games.


----------



## virus86

H320 on hand and video is being uploaded. Dont apply any pressure to the fins! lol


----------



## ganzosrevenge

whne ya said aww jeez it spilled. First thing i thought was you just set a new world record for "defect!"

\seriously though, very good walkthrough / unboxing. Enjoyed it very much.

Jason


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Also, if your mobo's bios is anything like mine. The fan speed you set is in correlation with the temp. So for mine I have it at 30cº @ 0% speed then for load 70cº @ 100% speed. So as my temp rises the pump speed increases. Usually my pump is around 2000 rpm when im playing games.


I have set the bios options to disable any 'smart fan' options, so by default there is 100% fan/pump power at the cpu header. Any control from the cpu header is done by SpeedFan. I also understand that my mobo may have a bottom limit to how slow the cpu-fan can go so it doesnt completely stop.

So it turns out I am able to get to 1210 rpm +/- 10 rpm. But it sounds baaaaad. The sound doesnt go away completely until 2200rpm.

Can someone tell me the best way to post a video?


----------



## virus86

OMG. The installation was the worst of all the AOI Ive done (H50, H110, H100, H100i, H320)!

First, then installation manual that was in the box was for the H220. Granted that the H320 and H220 are nearly identical, minus the radiator size. Why not make a H220/H320 all-in-one manual?

Second, there were two different head sized screws:



The top row are the pre-installed screws, second row seems like the same screw but with different threading, and the bottom row looks like the smaller 2011 screws. I installed the bigger version of the bottom row. The diagram in the manual appears to be the smaller screws for all of Intel. Why have two screw head sizes? I accidentally installed the second row of screws, but they kept spinning when they bottomed out. Are they for AMD?

Last (not Swiftech's fault), since I used SP120's, I had to use the long screws to mount the fans in a pull configuration. The SP120's are terrible to mount using regular fan screws. The included long, fan screws are 6-32 x 1.25" and they are too short to use. I blame it on the rubber grommets on the SP120. I went to Ace Hardware and got 1.5" screws. Plus the mounting holes are too big for the screw heads, so I also needed washers. $0.25 x 24 = $6 for the needed hardware...bah!

Crap....pump noise!


----------



## EarlZ

I had few mins of pump noise with the same pump you have but it went away with a few tilting,taps and shakes while fill port cover was open. Must be bubbles trapped.


----------



## virus86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I had few mins of pump noise with the same pump you have but it went away with a few tilting,taps and shakes while fill port cover was open. Must be bubbles trapped.


I heard flowing water for a few minutes after I turned it on for the first time. Then the infamous pump sound! I have my case on the side and the sound is gone. I need to get some DI/distilled water before I open up the fill port and do the tilt fix.

Is it okay to keep the pump at 100% (3krpm) all the time? I dont plan to control it via PWM at all.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I had few mins of pump noise with the same pump you have but it went away with a few tilting,taps and shakes while fill port cover was open. Must be bubbles trapped.
> 
> 
> 
> I heard flowing water for a few minutes after I turned it on for the first time. Then the infamous pump sound! I have my case on the side and the sound is gone. I need to get some DI/distilled water before I open up the fill port and do the tilt fix.
> 
> Is it okay to keep the pump at 100% (3krpm) all the time? I dont plan to control it via PWM at all.
Click to expand...

Yes, They are rated for max speed at 24/7. Is pump i have runs at 3,500rpm.


----------



## Jugurnot

Here is the video of the noise I have


----------



## Phelan

OK GUYS HERE'S THE NEWS. The product is launching in less than an hour, and Gabe wants to say thank you to all of OCN who made the H220 and it's brethren great. How so? 10% DISCOUNT CODE!!! The code is OCN, and only good through the end of the month so get the product now!!! Oh, and did I mention it's going to launch at $139.99 instead of $149.99??? With the discount code that's only *$125.99* before shipping!!! STAY UP AND GET THIS THING TONIGHT!!!!


----------



## EarlZ

Do reviewers already have a sample of the H220X and are just waiting for the timer to post their reviews?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Do reviewers already have a sample of the H220X and are just waiting for the timer to post their reviews?


I don't believe so. Mine is still in the mail. I believe Bryan said they couldn't get units out to the reviewers in time to have reviews available before the launch.


----------



## Phelan

10 MINUTES!!!


----------



## EarlZ

Okay, Just gonna wait until when they will ship to the Philippines distributor.. hopefully it wont take a week to wait for it.


----------



## FlanK3r

I think Chispy will doing review very soon. Im looking forward:thumb:


----------



## cephelix

whoa! that's awesome...excited to see the new units out and in use. i would like another pump/block combo though. anyone can recommend one?


----------



## Phelan

IT'S HERE!!!!!

http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx


----------



## tcrews

I ordered mine


----------



## dreameer111

WTB reviews!


----------



## Disabled

Ordered!


----------



## ChromeJohnson

$60 for shipping to Canada? Good lord. When does NCIX start stocking these?


----------



## sdmf74

Hey Phelan, any idea when the MCP50X will be available? I was under the impression they would go live same time as 220x


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeJohnson*
> 
> $60 for shipping to Canada? Good lord. When does NCIX start stocking these?


I've had a 220X preorder in at US NCIX since, umm.....March?

I'm betting NCIX will be the first retailer to have stock.

*edit* Anyone else notice on the 220X product page....

"Patent Pending"

Take that, Asetek! LOL


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> I've had a 220X preorder in at US NCIX since, umm.....March?
> 
> I'm betting NCIX will be the first retailer to have stock.
> 
> *edit* Anyone else notice on the 220X product page....
> 
> "Patent Pending"
> 
> Take that, Asetek! LOL


Yeah I saw that too haha.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey Phelan, any idea when the MCP50X will be available? I was under the impression they would go live same time as 220x


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryan*
> The new H220X comes out this week and the MCP50X will be out in the next couple of weeks. It will first come with our new Maelstrom reservoir and shortly after that it will be available as a stand-alone pump unit.
> 
> Regards,


From Swiftech forums


----------



## sdmf74

No way I PM'd Brian about it yesterday and he didnt say anything about that, actually this is what he said " We're still working on the site, so if none of the new products have officially gone on sale yet. They likely though will all go on sale on Friday night at the same time."

The MCP50X was on the site yesterday for a short time but before I coud check out it was removed, this is what prompted me to message him. That would be a major setback especialy since I been waiting so long and planning this builld around it.


----------



## Pahani

Ahh, that quote was from the 13th.....so if you have more recent info, I apologize.

Actually might upgrade my 220X kit with MCP50X......might as well, as i want to do a semi-custom loop including the M7F Cross Chill and different tubing.


----------



## sdmf74

ok cool had me worried for a minute


----------



## jam71

Hi, the h220x can 'be placed in any way? that is, for example, I could put it in the front of the case? have chance 'to mount only in this position.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hi, the h220x can 'be placed in any way? that is, for example, I could put it in the front of the case? have chance 'to mount only in this position.


Based on the usermaual you cannot install it upside down, so the front of the case is fine.


----------



## Jugurnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> I have set the bios options to disable any 'smart fan' options, so by default there is 100% fan/pump power at the cpu header. Any control from the cpu header is done by SpeedFan. I also understand that my mobo may have a bottom limit to how slow the cpu-fan can go so it doesnt completely stop.
> 
> So it turns out I am able to get to 1210 rpm +/- 10 rpm. But it sounds baaaaad. The sound doesnt go away completely until 2200rpm.
> 
> Can someone tell me the best way to post a video?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Here is the video of the noise I have


Hey guys sorry for repost, but I think it got washed away with the great news of the new kit. If someone could please offer assistance with this I would be grateful.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like air bubble to me


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

How does this compare to an h100i? It's been a long time since I've looked into AIOs.


----------



## Mega Man

to answer a few qs

taken from the product page




heh love the facebook thumbs ~!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pahani*
> 
> Ahh, that quote was from the 13th.....so if you have more recent info, I apologize.
> 
> Actually might upgrade my 220X kit with MCP50X......might as well, as i want to do a semi-custom loop including the M7F Cross Chill and different tubing.


I could be wrong, but I thought it was said somewhere that shipping from Shenzhen to HQ in Cali was the holdup on the MCP50X and Maelstrom 2.


----------



## shanker

Ordered! Thanks for the 10% off!

Going in a Fractal Design Mini R2


----------



## [email protected]

Hello guys, regarding the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2, both are in stock in Socal.. We are just taking our sweet time, dotting the i's and crossing the t's before we release them


----------



## VSG

Been stalking this thread for info on the mcp50x. Thanks for that, Gabe!

Can I express my interest in an mcp50x2? Sorry for the slight off topic-ness but my GPU loop in the Side 1 of my new build log would really make good use of it.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hello guys, regarding the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2, both are in stock in Socal.. We are just taking our sweet time, dotting the i's and crossing the t's before we release them


hey gabe,

will the h220x fit in a corsair obsidian 350D?

(i'm like *THIS* close to buying it)


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> will the h220x fit in a corsair obsidian 350D?


When wecells looked at this picture of the case:

http://techreport.com/gallery/24716/100-obsidian-350d-is-corsair-first-microatx-case/65520/detail-350d-fans

we can say at least that the H220-X will fit into the upper position, but it must be placed as the pump/res inside the 5.25" bays and it blocks both of those bays, so no optical drives with H220-X.










It also depends of how tall are yourcells computer memory module heatsinks. It will fit with modules of low heatsink, but maybe with some extra high heatsinks it won't?

We think that "Bryan™" told that they don't have that case to test the kit, but we're not sure.

If @BramSLI1 can confirm this, the better.

Kindest regards,

Uscells...


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hello guys, regarding the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2, both are in stock in Socal.. We are just taking our sweet time, dotting the i's and crossing the t's before we release them


Nice! So Mcp50x standalone will be available at the same time as the maelstrom v2?

Was it decided if swiftech will make an upgrade/conversion to have the mcp50x fit on the h220?

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Been stalking this thread for info on the mcp50x. Thanks for that, Gabe!
> 
> Can I express my interest in an mcp50x2? Sorry for the slight off topic-ness but my GPU loop in the Side 1 of my new build log would really make good use of it.


We haven't even begun development on it :-(


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> We haven't even begun development on it :-(


Ya, I have been talking to Bryan about it. My current build is 2 PC rigs in a single case with the primary rig being based on x99. So I got a couple of months minimum before I am done with it. So I am willing to wait if the mcp50x2 (or at least the mcp50x2 top) gets greenlit for development. If not, I will consider two mcp50x pumps in series. The Mo.Ra radiator I have brought down a single mcp35x pump to its knees giving me a laminar flow with Reynolds number ~1600 with nothing else in the loop. I did get another mcp35x and an x2 top so I will try again but definitely want to go with the better performing mcp50x for sure. I need a total of 3-4 pumps anyway so will just use these DDC pumps in other loops


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> When wecells looked at this picture of the case:
> 
> http://techreport.com/gallery/24716/100-obsidian-350d-is-corsair-first-microatx-case/65520/detail-350d-fans
> 
> we can say at least that the H220-X will fit into the upper position, but it must be placed as the pump/res inside the 5.25" bays and it blocks both of those bays, so no optical drives with H220-X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also depends of how tall are yourcells computer memory module heatsinks. It will fit with modules of low heatsink, but maybe with some extra high heatsinks it won't?
> 
> We think that "Bryan™" told that they don't have that case to test the kit, but we're not sure.
> 
> If @BramSLI1 can confirm this, the better.
> 
> Kindest regards,
> Uscells...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> When wecells looked at this picture of the case:
> 
> http://techreport.com/gallery/24716/100-obsidian-350d-is-corsair-first-microatx-case/65520/detail-350d-fans
> 
> we can say at least that the H220-X will fit into the upper position, but it must be placed as the pump/res inside the 5.25" bays and it blocks both of those bays, so no optical drives with H220-X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also depends of how tall are yourcells computer memory module heatsinks. It will fit with modules of low heatsink, but maybe with some extra high heatsinks it won't?
> 
> We think that "Bryan™" told that they don't have that case to test the kit, but we're not sure.
> 
> If @BramSLI1 can confirm this, the better.
> 
> Kindest regards,
> Uscells...


there is Plenty of space for Ram even very tall heatsinked ram modules. as to optical drives, the H220-X is just a few mm longer than 2 x 120mm fans side by side; we've tried small cases and were always able to fit the optical drives. the good thing about the H220-X is that it is shorter than any other kit, since the fittings and the reservoir are not in the length


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Nice! So Mcp50x standalone will be available at the same time as the maelstrom v2?
> 
> Was it decided if swiftech will make an upgrade/conversion to have the mcp50x fit on the h220?
> 
> Thanks


the MCP50X is compatible with the H220 and the H220-X, but you will loose the H220-X reservoir lighting if you go that route, until we come up with a little extension cord for the LED connector that is.


----------



## virus86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Yes, They are rated for max speed at 24/7. Is pump i have runs at 3,500rpm.


It seems to me that the pump noise is not due to air bubbles, but the impeller rubbing against the wall. I shook the unit like crazy in multiple positions, opened up the fill port, and topped it off with distilled water. The noise does go away when the pump is not in the vertical position. A temporary fix is to lower the RPM by 50% and then make it go back up to 100% like a shock, but I can still hear the impeller knock around a bit....


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> there is Plenty of space for Ram even very tall heatsinked ram modules. as to optical drives, the H220-X is just a few mm longer than 2 x 120mm fans side by side; we've tried small cases and were always able to fit the optical drives. the good thing about the H220-X is that it is shorter than any other kit, since the fittings and the reservoir are not in the length


so an obsidian 350d would not have any clearance issues. Good to know.

btw, congrats on bringing the h220x to the market!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> the MCP50X is compatible with the H220 and the H220-X, but you will loose the H220-X reservoir lighting if you go that route, until we come up with a little extension cord for the LED connector that is.


woo hoo!! Please release sooner than later







btw I do live close by in orange county


----------



## [email protected]

ask Bryan to replace your pump then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus86*
> 
> It seems to me that the pump noise is not due to air bubbles, but the impeller rubbing against the wall. I shook the unit like crazy in multiple positions, opened up the fill port, and topped it off with distilled water. The noise does go away when the pump is not in the vertical position. A temporary fix is to lower the RPM by 50% and then make it go back up to 100% like a shock, but I can still hear the impeller knock around a bit....


please contact [email protected] for support.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Been stalking this thread for info on the mcp50x. Thanks for that, Gabe!
> 
> Can I express my interest in an mcp50x2? Sorry for the slight off topic-ness but my GPU loop in the Side 1 of my new build log would really make good use of it.


ill +12 that ( yes + twelve)

gabe thanks for everything !

now for a limited ed gold run of the new blocks .....


----------



## kevindd992002

Anybody can confirm if the H220X can fit a HAF 922 with the Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 board without hitting the VRM heatsink module of the mobo?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Yes, They are rated for max speed at 24/7. Is pump i have runs at 3,500rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to me that the pump noise is not due to air bubbles, but the impeller rubbing against the wall. I shook the unit like crazy in multiple positions, opened up the fill port, and topped it off with distilled water. The noise does go away when the pump is not in the vertical position. A temporary fix is to lower the RPM by 50% and then make it go back up to 100% like a shock, but I can still hear the impeller knock around a bit....
Click to expand...

Im guessing it is causing a lot of vibrations ? If so its them same issue as the old pumps but since that is the latest rev it seems odd. Just get in touch with bram and see what he can do for you.


----------



## kimoswabi

Just to confirm, does this mean that the H220-X can be mounted with the face of the reservoir pointing up as it shows in the middle picture?


I have a case that has a window on the top panel with a 240mm fan/ radiator mount on the side of the case like this configuration. I was planning on putting a Corsair H100i in my case but I'm reconsidering it and going with H200-X instead if it will fit.


----------



## Mega Man

yes, as it shows in the pic.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Just to confirm, does this mean that the H220-X can be mounted with the face of the reservoir pointing up as it shows in the middle picture?
> 
> 
> I have a case that has a window on the top panel with a 240mm fan/ radiator mount on the side of the case like this configuration. I was planning on putting a Corsair H100i in my case but I'm reconsidering it and going with H200-X instead if it will fit.


the only no go is with the pump on top of the radiator/reservoir since that will dry out the pump and burn it. All other 3 orientations the pump will get the liquid and prime without running dry.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, as it shows in the pic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the only no go is with the pump on top of the radiator/reservoir since that will dry out the pump and burn it. All other 3 orientations the pump will get the liquid and prime without running dry.


This is what I'm looking to do and it sounds like it will work.
Man... I just got my H100i on Thursday.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Just ordered the H220X. I was one of the first to own a H220 so it's fitting. I have plans to use acrylic pipes with the H220X when I find the time to tackle that. Also thanks for pre filling it, that counts for a lot as I'm busy. I can hook it up right away and mess with upgrading at a later date. Sweet.


----------



## virus86

Interesting. I adjusted how I mounted the block on my motherboard and now its quiet. I first mounted it in a way where the tubes had a lot of wiggle room. The outlet was pointing down and the power connector was facing right. I then rotated it 90deg counter clockwise. The outlet is now pointing to the right (upper right corner of the pump). I wonder if I should rotate it another 90deg to relieve some tube tension.


----------



## EarlZ

Its possible that It may have released a trapped air bubble.


----------



## virus86

I turned the pump another 90deg counterclockwise with the outlet pointed up. So far so good! Ill let it run overnight for verification.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> there is Plenty of space for Ram even very tall heatsinked ram modules.


Ok, we stand to be corrected.

Quote:


> as to optical drives, the H220-X is just a few mm longer than 2 x 120mm fans side by side; we've tried small cases and were always able to fit the optical drives. the good thing about the H220-X is that it is shorter than any other kit, since the fittings and the reservoir are not in the length


Well, the 2 upper 120mm fan spots in Corsair Obsidian 350D are partly oriented inside the 5.25" bays:


As youcells can see, even this normal radiator will go slightly inside of the 5.25" bay, and block the upper optical bay with it's setup.

The optical drives comes out even further from it's 5.25" bay:



So by the installing orientation of H220-X, the pump reservoir section under the radiator will block both of the optical bays in the 350D setup.

There is a picture with radiator and optical drive also on the OCN:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1401102/corsair-350d-owners-club/180#post_20281221

The only way of getting H220-X into 350D top + opitcal drive, would be to try to drill yourcells own top fan screw orientation spots all the way near to the back wall, but still it's not guaranteed that the optical bay connectors can be installed into their places...

Then there is the one possibility of course, that you place the radiator(without fans) right in contact with the top panel and bolt the fans to it from outside of the case. Maybe not the prettiest solution, but it just might give youcells enough room for the H220-X and one optical drive inside 350D.

Kindest regards,
We of us...


----------



## sdmf74

I hope they dont wait too long on the new pump


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Ok, we stand to be corrected.
> 
> Well, the 2 upper 120mm fan spots in Corsair Obsidian 350D are partly oriented inside the 5.25" bays:
> 
> 
> As youcells can see, even this normal radiator will go slightly inside of the 5.25" bay, and block the upper optical bay with it's setup.
> 
> The optical drives comes out even further from it's 5.25" bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So by the installing orientation of H220-X, the pump reservoir section under the radiator will block both of the optical bays in the 350D setup.
> 
> There is a picture with radiator and optical drive also on the OCN:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1401102/corsair-350d-owners-club/180#post_20281221
> 
> The only way of getting H220-X into 350D top + opitcal drive, would be to try to drill yourcells own top fan screw orientation spots all the way near to the back wall, but still it's not guaranteed that the optical bay connectors can be installed into their places...
> 
> Then there is the one possibility of course, that you place the radiator(without fans) right in contact with the top panel and bolt the fans to it from outside of the case. Maybe not the prettiest solution, but it just might give youcells enough room for the H220-X and one optical drive inside 350D.
> 
> Kindest regards,
> 
> We of us...


By the looks of your picture, you could actually fit the H220X in the top without mods, but it would block the use of a optical or other longer drive in the 5.25" bays. The rad closely follows the fan outline on the H220X so anywhere you can bolt up a 120mm fan, you can also bolt up the rad.


----------



## Gabrielzm

GAbe and Bryan any plans on releasing the h220x radiator alone as a separate option. It is really a short rad and I think there is room (pun intended) or market for short rads out there.


----------



## VSG

Isn't this it: http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx? Currently on sale too with fans included!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Isn't this it: http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx? Currently on sale too with fans included!


does not look the same. The h220x rad have 247 mm in length. This looks like the h220 rad.


----------



## WhiteRice

I just purchased a h220x to replace my h220. I'll share pictures and report when I'm done.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> GAbe and Bryan any plans on releasing the h220x radiator alone as a separate option. It is really a short rad and I think there is room (pun intended) or market for short rads out there.


iirc no but things may change, they do have the idea to do different size AIO though


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> does not look the same. The h220x rad have 247 mm in length. This looks like the h220 rad.


That IS the H220 rad, didn't know the rads were different also. Nevermind then!


----------



## virus86

My overnight run of the pump yielded great success. I opened up the fill port, tapped, and tilted the radiator. A few bubbles surfaced! I topped it off and its good to go.

Ill run a temp test later tonight. My Corsair H110, Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWMs, stock TIM, 3930k @ 4.7Ghz, 1.4V topped off at 86C after 5 runs on LinX. My ambient is 78F. Im now using Tim-Mate 2 on my H320 instead of Arctic Silver 5. My first application of TM2 was way too thick. When I removed the pump to place it in the current configuration, some of the paste splattered onto the cpu mount. I hope this time around I didnt put too much. Its a good thing that the cure time for TM2 is only an hour so I can run proper temp comparisons soon.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Anybody can confirm if the H220X can fit a HAF 922 with the Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 board without hitting the VRM heatsink module of the mobo?


If your motherboard PCB and case top panel has more than 54mm / 2,126" clearance, then you're fine with H220-X.

We checked that your case top panel has the necessary mounting holes for H220-X.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimage.php?image=15811


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I could be wrong, but I thought it was said somewhere that shipping from Shenzhen to HQ in Cali was the holdup on the MCP50X and Maelstrom 2.


Yes, that is correct. There will be a delay for MCP50X and Maelstrom V2 due to a shipping issue. A couple of review samples though were sent with the H220X, so they will possibly be reviewed prior to launch.

Sorry for not posting on here yesterday. I had a client build that I did with an H220X. I expanded it to a second side mounted radiator and a GPU. I was quite surprised at how easy it was to expand this kit. I didn't take any pictures or video. Sorry about that. There just wasn't time and it was a personal friend of mine, so I didn't want to impose on him. I really am impressed with the design and how easy it is to fit into even a mid-tower. I managed to fit this into a Corsair 400R. The radiator with the fans mounted above it, just misses the clips to hold in the memory. The motherboard was a Gigabyte Z68 UD3H B3. It was a tight fit, but it did fit. We had to fit the second radiator on the outside of the door and then route the tubing in through the back grommets. Not the prettiest thing ever, but it works. His CPU temperatures dropped about 15 degrees. We were also able to get his 3770K stable at 1.46 volts and overclocked to 5.7 GHz. Not too bad if you ask me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> When wecells looked at this picture of the case:
> 
> http://techreport.com/gallery/24716/100-obsidian-350d-is-corsair-first-microatx-case/65520/detail-350d-fans
> 
> we can say at least that the H220-X will fit into the upper position, but it must be placed as the pump/res inside the 5.25" bays and it blocks both of those bays, so no optical drives with H220-X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also depends of how tall are yourcells computer memory module heatsinks. It will fit with modules of low heatsink, but maybe with some extra high heatsinks it won't?
> 
> We think that "Bryan™" told that they don't have that case to test the kit, but we're not sure.
> 
> If @BramSLI1 can confirm this, the better.
> 
> Kindest regards,
> Uscells...


Our radiator is a little thicker than the aluminum one Corsair uses. It therefore will be likely be an issue trying to fit this into that case with the fans mounted inside. We don't have that particular case, so I really can't confirm that, but it does look that way in the pictures.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our radiator is a little thicker than the aluminum one Corsair uses. It therefore will be likely be an issue trying to fit this into that case with the fans mounted inside. We don't have that particular case, so I really can't confirm that, but it does look that way in the pictures.


Yes, the H220-X rad is 2mm thicker.

We don't think that small difference is an issue, but hey, we don't know the clearance of the 350D top panel and the motherboad PCB.

So only real case measurement will tell, if it fits or not?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Yes, the H220-X rad is 2mm thicker.
> 
> We don't think that small difference is an issue, but hey, we don't know the clearance of the 350D top panel and the motherboad PCB.
> 
> So only real case measurement will tell, if it fits or not?


Right, that would be the only way to properly tell. Well that, or actually test fitting it with the same motherboard to check for heat sink and memory clearance.


----------



## EarlZ

Both h220 and h220x does have the same rad thickness?


----------



## Conditioned

Is there a list somewhere with cases that the h220x fits in? Im getting either the fractal define r4 or the corsair obsidian 550d, and I havent seen any definitive examples where it fits.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> If your motherboard PCB and case top panel has more than 54mm / 2,126" clearance, then you're fine with H220-X.
> 
> We checked that your case top panel has the necessary mounting holes for H220-X.
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/fullimage.php?image=15811


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Yes, the H220-X rad is 2mm thicker.
> 
> We don't think that small difference is an issue, but hey, we don't know the clearance of the 350D top panel and the motherboad PCB.
> 
> So only real case measurement will tell, if it fits or not?


I wouldn't need to worry about the rad thickness hitting the VRM heatsink since it's located on the right most part of the unit if I mount it on the top panel, right?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our radiator is a little thicker than the aluminum one Corsair uses. It therefore will be likely be an issue trying to fit this into that case with the fans mounted inside. We don't have that particular case, so I really can't confirm that, but it does look that way in the pictures.


So the extra 2 or 3 mm means i'm stuck with a not-a-swiftech cooler...







in my 350D...

(ie: i'm gonna have to go H100i... or maybe a glacer 240L)


----------



## twitchyzero

Re: H220-X

anyone fit it into a 500R with pics?
is the block LED lit and can select btw the four colors or is that optional plates you have to buy? (hard to tell only pics no description)
I have asked this question to no avail before, I thought the whole point of black barbs in the H220 is to prevent algae growth. So the addition for res window defeats that purpose?
Gabe/Bram, will this be selling via Newegg?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

The H220 DOES fit in the 350D

H220 fits in here too.
by this logic, why wouldn't the 220X


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Re: H220-X
> 
> anyone fit it into a 500R with pics?
> is the block LED lit and can select btw the four colors or is that optional plates you have to buy? (hard to tell only pics no description)
> I have asked this question to no avail before, I thought the whole point of black barbs in the H220 is to prevent algae growth. So the addition for res window defeats that purpose?
> Gabe/Bram, will this be selling via Newegg?


It comes with all 4 LED color plates, and you can color the white one whatever color you want the LED to light up as with permenant marker. I don't know about the algae question but I would think the black barbs preventing it would be via the coating on the metal rather than the color itself.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Re: H220-X
> 
> anyone fit it into a 500R with pics?
> is the block LED lit and can select btw the four colors or is that optional plates you have to buy? (hard to tell only pics no description)
> I have asked this question to no avail before, I thought the whole point of black barbs in the H220 is to prevent algae growth. So the addition for res window defeats that purpose?
> Gabe/Bram, will this be selling via Newegg?
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with all 4 LED color plates, and you can color the white one whatever color you want the LED to light up as with permenant marker. I don't know about the algae question but I would think the black barbs preventing it would be via the coating on the metal rather than the color itself.
Click to expand...

no. the coolant contains biocides/anti microbe stuff, the barbs are just barbs

( they use polypropylene glycol ( mem is fuzzy may not be that one, i am on allergy meds which makes my mem suck sorry )


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. the coolant contains biocides/anti microbe stuff, the barbs are just barbs
> 
> ( they use polypropylene glycol ( mem is fuzzy may not be that one, i am on allergy meds which makes my mem suck sorry )


That

Polypropylene glycol is the stuff, similar to antifreeze.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> The H220 DOES fit in the 350D
> 
> H220 fits in here too.
> by this logic, why wouldn't the 220X


If the H220 fits in it then I don't see any reason why the H220X won't fit as well. We haven't had the opportunity to test fit the new kit into this case because we don't have one on hand to do so. Your links prove that there shouldn't be any issues with fitting it and thank you for posting those for clarification.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. the coolant contains biocides/anti microbe stuff, the barbs are just barbs
> 
> ( they use polypropylene glycol ( mem is fuzzy may not be that one, i am on allergy meds which makes my mem suck sorry )


my understanding was that additional to the anti-mold ingredients, the barbs in H220 are designed opaque so light doesn't enter them, hence algae cannot grow. Now that there's a window = hence light for algae growth, so you're relying strictly on the anti-mold ingredient.

Again, I'm sure water cooling experts can chime in, but H220 was marketed this way IIRC.

Thanks for your answer regarding LED plates.

So from the official response, the blanket statment seems to be if your case is compatible with H220 then H220X should be no problem assuming you dont have anything in the 5.25" bays? My 500R was forced to have H220 res upside down, which is not optimal. My only options were to mod the case or get a T-line. I want assurance the H220X will work natively in the 500R, without hacking away at the case or buying additional accessories. Bram/Gabe, you guys have the 500R on hand right? Care to test this popular corsair case out with your new H220X kit?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> The H220 DOES fit in the 350D
> 
> H220 fits in here too.
> by this logic, why wouldn't the 220X


The question with the 350D case is not the H220-X radiator fitting itself, but...

Are youcells going to use any optical (or other long) drives in the 350D 5.25" bays???

1. Answer: Yes... So if yourcells current build has an optical drive at 5.25" bay, and if you're now planning to buy the H220-X, then don't be surprised if you cannot install the H220-X without modding at the same time with yourcells optical drive.











... a poor photoshop job, wecells know it. This just gives youcells the visual effect of what wecells have been writing all the time.

2. Answer: No... Just go for it, no conflicting issues.


----------



## VSG

Off topic here but what's with the "youcells", "uscells", "wecells" thing?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Off topic here but what's with the "youcells", "uscells", "wecells" thing?


Probably Google translate or bing translate. I don't think English is his primary language.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Probably Google translate or bing translate. I don't think English is his primary language.


Brief description: No... It's a cult'u'rebased divide and conquer macro"reality"sensedelusionconcept writing vs. natural scientifically conscious oneness picorealityconcept writing.








stop from now on.


----------



## kevindd992002

If worse comes to worst, is it ok to mount the 2 x 25mm fans on the outside of the HAF 922 while keeping the radiator inside the top panel?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If worse comes to worst, is it ok to mount the 2 x 25mm fans on the outside of the HAF 922 while keeping the radiator inside the top panel?


yes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> yes.


How big of a performance degradation would that be compared to mounting it in the standard way? And would there be no push configuration for this one?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How big of a performance degradation would that be compared to mounting it in the standard way? And would there be no push configuration for this one?


99% non-issue.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Brief description: No... It's a cult'u'rebased divide and conquer macro"reality"sensedelusionconcept writing vs. natural scientifically conscious oneness picorealityconcept writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stop from now on.


I've always enjoyed reading your posts.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Brief description: No... It's a cult'u'rebased divide and conquer macro"reality"sensedelusionconcept writing vs. natural scientifically conscious oneness picorealityconcept writing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stop from now on.


Ah ok...

still don't get it though


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How big of a performance degradation would that be compared to mounting it in the standard way? And would there be no push configuration for this one?


With the H220-X radiator wecells think it could be like 1°C since youcells can put only partial push/pull configuration with 3 fans.

Though the H220-X Apogee XL CPU block is also better by thermal performance than H220 pump/block combo, so wecells think that the H220-X could have a better cooling capacity with only partial 3 fans P/P configuration than the H220 has with full P/P 4 fans configuration?

The H220-X radiator as low fin pitch radiator is optimized for low speed fans, so the airflow through it is good with just 2 x 120mm x 25mm fans either push or pull configuration.

Push pull configuration is needed on low fin pitch thicker radiators with low speed fans, or high fin pitch thinner radiators with low speed fans.

Otherwise there is just minimal 1-2°C gain with push pull configuration with low fin pitch radiators with low speed fans.

The fan noise with P/P configuration also grows by 3 dB and thus by uscells opinion, it's not worth of the fuzz with these kits.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> With the H220-X radiator wecells think it could be like 1°C since youcells can put only partial push/pull configuration with 3 fans.
> 
> Though the H220-X Apogee XL CPU block is also better by thermal performance than H220 pump/block combo, so wecells think that the H220-X could have a better cooling capacity with only partial 3 fans P/P configuration than the H220 has with full P/P 4 fans configuration?
> 
> The H220-X radiator as low fin pitch radiator is optimized for low speed fans, so the airflow through it is good with just 2 x 120mm x 25mm fans either push or pull configuration.
> 
> Push pull configuration is needed on low fin pitch thicker radiators with low speed fans, or high fin pitch thinner radiators with low speed fans.
> 
> Otherwise there is just minimal 1-2°C gain with push pull configuration with low fin pitch radiators with low speed fans.
> 
> The fan noise with P/P configuration also grows by 3 dB and thus by uscells opinion, it's not worth of the fuzz with these kits.


The particular question he was asking about was the difference between the stock fans being mounted inside the case with the rad on them underneath or having the fans mounted outside the case with the rad mounted to them under the top of the case.

edit- my bad, I didn't see the question about the push.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ...*And would there be no push configuration for this one*?


push or pull can be done simply by flipping the fan over. As far as adding fasn for p/p, you can add a 3rd fan but there is no room for a 4th becuase of the location of the rad and res. Performance gain by p/p is minimal though as We of us said.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> push or pull can be done simply by flipping the fan over. As far as adding fasn for p/p, you can add a 3rd fan but there is no room for a 4th becuase of the location of the rad and res. Performance gain by p/p is minimal though as We of us said.


Got it. I'm very new to watercooling so I apologize for these very basic questions. For these type of kits and case combo though, is it better to push cold air from outside to inside the case or pull warm air from inside to outside the case?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I wouldn't need to worry about the rad thickness hitting the VRM heatsink since it's located on the right most part of the unit if I mount it on the top panel, right?


Please measure the clearance gap between your top panel and the motherboard Printed Circuit Board (PCB) side with metric/inch measure tape (metric 55 mm needed), since it's more accurate, than inch tape side lines.



Youcells should read metric measures as above lower black numbers as centimeters and the lines as millimeters, so other ways 5 centimeter and 5 millimeter lines on top of that is needed for 55 millimeter clearance gap for the radiator part of the H220-X.

The pump and reservoir part can't touch yourcells motherboard components, if they are installed and located right beside the 5.25" bays of yourcells case.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. I'm very new to watercooling so I apologize for these very basic questions. For these type of kits and case combo though, is it better to push cold air from outside to inside the case or pull warm air from inside to outside the case?


There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers... we hope that ourcells answers are not stupid?









Push cold air from outside through the hot radiator increases slightly the case temperature, but gives a slightly better cooling performance.

Pull warm air from inside through the hot radiator decreases slightly the case temperature, but gives slightly poorer cooling performance.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Please measure the clearance gap between your top panel and the motherboard Printed Circuit Board (PCB) side with metric/inch measure tape (metric 55 mm needed), since it's more accurate, than inch tape side lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youcells should read metric measures as above lower black numbers as centimeters and the lines as millimeters, so other ways 5 centimeter and 5 millimeter lines on top of that is needed for 55 millimeter clearance gap for the radiator part of the H220-X.
> 
> The pump and reservoir part can't touch yourcells motherboard components, if they are installed and located right beside the 5.25" bays of yourcells case.


I definitely know how to use a tape measure









I just used it earlier and it seems that I have around 50mm only from the top panel to the very edge of my motherboard but it would be around 54mm up to the edge of the VRM heatsink itself.

What do you think?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I definitely know how to use a tape measure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used it earlier and it seems that I have around 50mm only from the top panel to the very edge of my motherboard but it would be around 54mm up to the edge of the VRM heatsink itself.
> 
> What do you think?


Ok, we're sorry for giving youcells those basic tape instructions.









Then it probably will touch the heatsink, but does it block other components on the more edge of the upper motherboard?

Also what IS yourcells motherboard??? EDIT Stupid us, youcells have your rig described, so it's Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3. We look more closely that board and see, how it is configured...

Usually there are some power connectors for CPU and some fan connectors.

EDIT: And there was. EATX12V 8-pin CPU power connector is the highest with it's cable connected, so that's what worries us more than yourcells MB VRM heatsink!

Could youcells try to measure the clearance gap between the motherboard components and the 120mm top fans nearest edge against the MB.

That would give uscells (and youcells too) the measure wecells need to know, that how much would the radiator go on top of the components, if it will go?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Ok, we're sorry for giving youcells those basic tape instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it probably will touch the heatsink, but does it block other components on the more edge of the upper motherboard?
> 
> Also what IS yourcells motherboard???
> 
> Usually there are some power connectors for CPU and some fan connectors.
> 
> Could youcells try to measure the clearance gap between the motherboard components and the 120mm top fans nearest edge against the MB.
> 
> That would give uscells (and youcells too) the measure wecells need to know, that how much would the radiator go on top of the components, if it will go?


No problem.

What do you mean does it block other components on the more edge of the upper motherboard?

My motherboard is the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 and you can check its pics on my sig for reference.

The radiator is screwed towards the side panel anyway, right? So that could possibly miss touching the other smaller components on the mobo.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> What do you mean does it block other components on the more edge of the upper motherboard?
> 
> My motherboard is the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 and you can check its pics on my sig for reference.
> 
> The radiator is screwed towards the side panel anyway, right? So that could possibly miss touching the other smaller components on the mobo.


Yes, wecells edited our last post for more accurate descriptions, but now wecells give youcells the visual reference of what we mean with the radiator / case top panel fan installation places (red spots).

And of course there is the possibility to install it with little modification (drill few holes) to take the radiator (green spots or somewhere closer in the middle) away from the MB (blue line location... not sure of it's accuracy) and by that method avoid any contact issues.



For example Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 case has 52mm clearance gap between top radiator and motherboard and that information gives the consumer the understanding of the possible conflicts with the motherboard components and the radiator installation.



So that is the measure that wecells are looking from yourcells case (red spots vs. blue line), and we have not found it anywhere.


----------



## Conditioned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Off topic here but what's with the "youcells", "uscells", "wecells" thing?


He´s clearly part of a borglike mind collective and assuming everyone is too. Didn´t you study science in school and how to meet with an alien consciousness?


----------



## VSG

Review units have been shipped, Linus just got his:

__
http://instagr.am/p/qu6eikSbIL%2F/


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Review units have been shipped, Linus just got his:
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/qu6eikSbIL%2F/


Nice







Cant wait to see how his numbers compare to his h220 review!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

We all know my impressions / review is the one that really matters ;-)

Seriously I'm looking forward to a nice review too. TTLC perhaps.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> yes.
> 
> 
> 
> How big of a performance degradation would that be compared to mounting it in the standard way? And would there be no push configuration for this one?
Click to expand...

no perf reductions. one way or another the air has to get through the mesh either way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How big of a performance degradation would that be compared to mounting it in the standard way? And would there be no push configuration for this one?
> 
> 
> 
> With the H220-X radiator wecells think it could be like 1°C since youcells can put only partial push/pull configuration with 3 fans.
> 
> Though the H220-X Apogee XL CPU block is also better by thermal performance than H220 pump/block combo, so wecells think that the H220-X could have a better cooling capacity with only partial 3 fans P/P configuration than the H220 has with full P/P 4 fans configuration?
> 
> The H220-X radiator as low fin pitch radiator is optimized for low speed fans, so the airflow through it is good with just 2 x 120mm x 25mm fans either push or pull configuration.
> 
> Push pull configuration is needed on low fin pitch thicker radiators with low speed fans, or high fin pitch thinner radiators with low speed fans.
> 
> Otherwise there is just minimal 1-2°C gain with push pull configuration with low fin pitch radiators with low speed fans.
> 
> The fan noise with P/P configuration also grows by 3 dB and thus by uscells opinion, it's not worth of the fuzz with these kits.
Click to expand...

no. just no. push pull IS USELESS ( keep reading, for the REST of this statement ) . forget the noise, but the fact that this is a _*thin rad designed for low speed fans*_.... USELESS
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ...*And would there be no push configuration for this one*?
> 
> 
> 
> push or pull can be done simply by flipping the fan over. As far as adding fasn for p/p, you can add a 3rd fan but there is no room for a 4th becuase of the location of the rad and res. Performance gain by p/p is minimal though as We of us said.
Click to expand...

this


----------



## Disabled

My H220X is going to be here tomorrow!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> My H220X is going to be here tomorrow!


Grats! Mine too!


----------



## twitchyzero

bump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> So from the official response, the blanket statment seems to be if your case is compatible with H220 then H220X should be no problem assuming you dont have anything in the 5.25" bays? My 500R was forced to have H220 res upside down, which is not optimal. My only options were to mod the case or get a T-line. I want assurance the H220X will work natively in the 500R, without hacking away at the case or buying additional accessories. Bryan/Gabe, you guys have the 500R on hand right? Care to test this popular corsair case out with your new H220X kit?


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> My H220X is going to be here tomorrow!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Grats! Mine too!


So jelly! My mini-ITX build is on hold as I can't decide whether to keep and use the H100i or the H220x or go custom wc...
I want to see lots of pics and your thoughts after getting it tomorrow!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> bump


That's completely dependent on the length of your optical drive. The H220X will come up to about right at the end of the 5.25" bays, so if your optical drive protrudes the bays, it won't fit.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Yes, wecells edited our last post for more accurate descriptions, but now wecells give youcells the visual reference of what we mean with the radiator / case top panel fan installation places (red spots).
> 
> And of course there is the possibility to install it with little modification (drill few holes) to take the radiator (green spots or somewhere closer in the middle) away from the MB (blue line location... not sure of it's accuracy) and by that method avoid any contact issues.
> 
> 
> 
> For example Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 case has 52mm clearance gap between top radiator and motherboard and that information gives the consumer the understanding of the possible conflicts with the motherboard components and the radiator installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that is the measure that wecells are looking from yourcells case (red spots vs. blue line), and we have not found it anywhere.


I measured the distance from the blue line to the red spots on my case and it's roughly 30mm which seems to be tight







Upon visual inspection, I'm seeing that I probably would have a problem with the rad hitting the CPU power connector on the board but am not sure if I can insert it as a tight fit. What do you think?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I measured the distance from the blue line to the red spots


Wecells hope that youcells refer to the motherboard PCB as blue line and top panel 120mm fan nearest mounting holes as red spots, but please confirm this?



> on my case and it's roughly 30mm which seems to be tight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upon visual inspection, I'm seeing that I probably would have a problem with the rad hitting the CPU power connector on the board but am not sure if I can insert it as a tight fit. What do you think?


Yes, that was ourcells concern too.

The rad probably touch the power connector wires at the cases factory 2 x 120mm top fan location:



It could still fit there, if youcells can manage to bend the CPU power wires to their tightest curve?

But wecells still suggest youcells to move the radiator ca. 1,5cm further (yellow spots) away from the cases factory location, since that should give it freedom of any kind of conflict with those MB components (assuming the VRM heatsink is lower than 45mm?).



Youcells could try to use the honeycomb holes to attach screws from inside to the 2 x 120mm fans on the top panel outside and then just drill the 2 needed extra holes to the top panel using the fans as a template.

Testing will always tell youcells what to do, so just order the kit and do what youcells can or must to do.

Wecells really hope that it's an easy but tight fit.


----------



## BramSLI1

I am announcing that we are now taking overseas orders from our website. You'll need to use PayPal and select the overseas payment and shipping options during check out. Let me know if anyone has any questions about this.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I am announcing that we are now taking overseas orders from our website. You'll need to use PayPal and select the overseas payment and shipping options during check out. Let me know if anyone has any questions about this.


Done, and it worked well. H220-X kit ordered.









The only thing that aroused, was that in the shopping cart, there is an option for straight "Checkout with Paypal", and when a foreign customer clicks on that, the order won't include the shipping costs when entering into the Paypal site, only the product price is counted.

Youcells might want to change the text of that "Checout with Paypal" to exclude Foreign customers.









So if some foreign customer want to order directly from the Swiftech website, then do NOTclick on that "Checkout with PayPal / The safer, easier way to pay" button on shopping cart, but just use the black "Checkout" button under the "Total:" amount of order.

After that, there is a choice of the international shipping method, and a possibility to insert registering information for the order.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Wecells hope that youcells refer to the motherboard PCB as blue line and top panel 120mm fan nearest mounting holes as red spots, but please confirm this?
> 
> Yes, that was ourcells concern too.
> 
> The rad probably touch the power connector wires at the cases factory 2 x 120mm top fan location:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It could still fit there, if youcells can manage to bend the CPU power wires to their tightest curve?
> 
> But wecells still suggest youcells to move the radiator ca. 1,5cm further (yellow spots) away from the cases factory location, since that should give it freedom of any kind of conflict with those MB components (assuming the VRM heatsink is lower than 45mm?).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youcells could try to use the honeycomb holes to attach screws from inside to the 2 x 120mm fans on the top panel outside and then just drill the 2 needed extra holes to the top panel using the fans as a template.
> 
> Testing will always tell youcells what to do, so just order the kit and do what youcells can or must to do.
> 
> Wecells really hope that it's an easy but tight fit.


Yes, I measured exactly from the blue line (motherboard) to the nearest red spot in the picture and I got around 30mm only.

Yeah, I guess I need to just buy the product and test it out. What do you mean the VRM heatsink lower than 45mm?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes, I measured exactly from the blue line (motherboard) to the nearest red spot in the picture and I got around 30mm only.
> 
> Yeah, I guess I need to just buy the product and test it out. What do you mean the VRM heatsink lower than 45mm?


Ok.

Wecells meant, that if youcells deside to move the radiator to the yellow spots, that will probably give the radiator / motherboard surface clearance gap as ~45mm.

If the VRM heatsink is for example ca. 40mm from the motherboard surface, then not even that will "nearly" contact the radiator, as it may, if youcells install it into the red spots.


----------



## gsk3rd

Pretty sure those of us who have the H220 should be allowed to exchange ours for the new one!!!

jp


----------



## BenJaminJr

Just ordered a 220x...IN!


----------



## Ramzinho

10% OFF on swiftech.com if you order H220X and use code OCN.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 10% OFF on swiftech.com if you order H220X and use code OCN.


Thanks for reminding everyone again







. I mentioned it earlier and also added it to the OP.


----------



## Phelan

What's this?..


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What's this?..


Is it the Asetek-Smasher 220x?!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Is it the Asetek-Smasher 220x?!


Who knows...


----------



## Disabled

Look at what just came in!












Some nice peanut packaging.











I will post up more pictures tomorrow!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Is it the Asetek-Smasher 220x?!


Comment of the day...


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> What's this?..


I guess we got ours at the same time!


----------



## twitchyzero

I'll ask again








are we gonna see this on Newegg or Amazon?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> I'll ask again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are we gonna see this on Newegg or Amazon?


Yes, just not for a bit.


----------



## cephelix

excited to see how this thing performs even though i'm not getting one myself...


----------



## EarlZ

MOAR PICS PLOX!


----------



## sdmf74

Got all my parts just about ordered, have all the i's been dotted and t's been crossed. I feel like you guys are the dope dealer that wants to keep all the good stuff for himself.......
Jonesin for new pump


----------



## michael-ocn

Nice, I'm gonna use the H220-X in my next pc in a few months. Looks like some definite improvements over the h220.

- more reliable pump (!!!!!!)
- better block and better clearance with the top mounted fittings
- shorter length for easier fit with small and mid-size case

The 220x directly addresses the clearance and reliability concerns I had about the h220. Kudos to swiftech!


----------



## oldAMDnew2Intel

I love(d) my H220, but I really want the H220-X! Wish Swiftech had an upgrade program...oh well, I might just break down and order one. I too like the fact the pump issue from the H220 was addressed...its new location seems more reliable







.

Oh, this the first time in years I wished my case had a window


----------



## Jugurnot

Won't fit in my HAF XB


----------



## OwaN

Can anyone comment on H220X compatibility with a bitfenix prodigy?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jugurnot*
> 
> Won't fit in my HAF XB


If youcells have at least 91mm clearance from the front fan bracket to yourcells graphic card, then it will fit.









If not, then it don't fit as youcells stated.









The radiator / reservoir / pump section is 90mm thick without fans, and the fans should be installed other side of the bracket as the fans are installed by default setting, when the case is new.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Look at what just came in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some nice popcorn packaging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post up more pictures tomorrow!


Very jealous, won't get mine till tomorrow


----------



## Sylafari

Installed the H220X over my old Kraken X60 today. Installation was simple. The waterblock is gigantic compared to the X60 and it glows evenly and glows really bright. I replaced the stock fans with Noctua NF-F12 PWM so I don't know what stock performance will be like. I'll run some thermal tests later if anyone is interested (simple RealTemp w/ Prime95 Sensor Test stuff). There was one negative I noticed and I have shown it in the second picture.

Picture of the waterblock (tried my best but it still looks much better in real life):
http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04203_zps39657574.jpg.html

Picture of the reservoir. As you can see there is dust in the reservoir. At first I thought it was dust in the reservoir but upon further inspection I believe they are dust filaments trapped in the acrylic clear window (bad quality control for the creation of the clear window?). Cause all the dust filaments look like they are on the surface of the window and I can't observe any filaments in the coolant. But I am not 100% sure. Anyways here is the picture:
http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04205_zpsdb32e3e4.jpg.html


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sylafari*
> 
> Installed the H220X over my old Kraken X60 today. Installation was simple. The waterblock is gigantic compared to the X60 and it glows evenly and glows really bright. I replaced the stock fans with Noctua NF-F12 PWM so I don't know what stock performance will be like. I'll run some thermal tests later if anyone is interested (simple RealTemp w/ Prime95 Sensor Test stuff). There was one negative I noticed and I have shown it in the second picture.
> 
> Picture of the waterblock (tried my best but it still looks much better in real life):
> http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04203_zps39657574.jpg.html
> 
> Picture of the reservoir. As you can see there is dust in the reservoir. At first I thought it was dust in the reservoir but upon further inspection I believe they are dust filaments trapped in the acrylic clear window (bad quality control for the creation of the clear window?). Cause all the dust filaments look like they are on the surface of the window and I can't observe any filaments in the coolant. But I am not 100% sure. Anyways here is the picture:
> http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04205_zpsdb32e3e4.jpg.html


I agree. The waterblock looks so much better in person.

For the reservoir, I also have that on my own H220X.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> I agree. The waterblock looks so much better in person.
> 
> For the reservoir, I also have that on my own H220X.


Hmmm, a quality issue then? I hope Bryan can address this.


----------



## EarlZ

Woah, hopefully only a very limited units have that dust issue, its not a biggy but id prefer it to br very clear.


----------



## Disabled

Here's a quick unboxing for you guys!


Standard cardboard packaging.






As you see, this is the same as Sylafari issue with the reservoir window.


Here's how my performance went after about 35 minutes of prime95 with stock fans. Keep in mind that this is my first AIO so I'm not sure how to get the best performance out of these. But it's +10 degrees cooler than my Hyper 212 Plus I've had for a while, so it definitely improved for me!








This is with a Core i5-3570k @4.2Ghz 1.22v.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sylafari*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Installed the H220X over my old Kraken X60 today. Installation was simple. The waterblock is gigantic compared to the X60 and it glows evenly and glows really bright. I replaced the stock fans with Noctua NF-F12 PWM so I don't know what stock performance will be like. I'll run some thermal tests later if anyone is interested (simple RealTemp w/ Prime95 Sensor Test stuff). There was one negative I noticed and I have shown it in the second picture.
> 
> Picture of the waterblock (tried my best but it still looks much better in real life):
> http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04203_zps39657574.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the reservoir. As you can see there is dust in the reservoir. At first I thought it was dust in the reservoir but upon further inspection I believe they are dust filaments trapped in the acrylic clear window (bad quality control for the creation of the clear window?). Cause all the dust filaments look like they are on the surface of the window and I can't observe any filaments in the coolant. But I am not 100% sure. Anyways here is the picture:
> http://s263.photobucket.com/user/Sylafari/media/DSC04205_zpsdb32e3e4.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a quick unboxing for you guys!
> 
> 
> Standard cardboard packaging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you see, this is the same as Sylafari issue with the reservoir window.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how my performance went after about 35 minutes of prime95 with stock fans. Keep in mind that this is my first AIO so I'm not sure how to get the best performance out of these. But it's +10 degrees cooler than my Hyper 212 Plus I've had for a while, so it definitely improved for me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with a Core i5-3570k @4.2Ghz 1.22v.


Bummer about the specks in the acrylic window. Not sure how I'd feel about that whether it'd drive me nuts or maybe with different colored coolant, the specks will be less noticeable...? But looks like quality control issues tho.

It also looks like the H220-X shipped with clear coolant. I thought I read it or heard it somewhere that the coolant was going to be Swiftech's new HydrX PM 2 coolant which is a blue coolant. The box certainly shows the coolant being blue.


----------



## EarlZ

That IS a pretty dirty window.. though I wont be starting at it 24/7 but it worries me


----------



## smithydan

Can this be mounted vertically with reservoir and fill port at bottom without leaking or air problems?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Can anyone comment on H220X compatibility with a bitfenix prodigy?


It sure will fit without any issues, if youcells remove the 5.25" bay and all HDD cages, then youcells can install it to the front.

If youcells install it into the top, then youcells can have the 2 part HDD cage, but not the 5.25" bay and maybe the 3 part HDD cage.

So most likely youcells can't use any optical or other drives in the 5.25" bay after installing H220-X into yourcells computer.

There is still very small chance, that it can be installed to the front without taking the 5.25" bay away, but wecells don't have the measures of the case front section, so we're not sure about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Can this be mounted vertically with reservoir and fill port at bottom without leaking or air problems?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10620#post_22589278


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Bummer about the specks in the acrylic window. Not sure how I'd feel about that whether it'd drive me nuts or maybe with different colored coolant, the specks will be less noticeable...? But looks like quality control issues tho.
> 
> It also looks like the H220-X shipped with clear coolant. I thought I read it or heard it somewhere that the coolant was going to be Swiftech's new HydrX PM 2 coolant which is a blue coolant. The box certainly shows the coolant being blue.


It's because of the bright LED. Any imperfections in the window show up very clearly in the bright light. It's not easy to get the material (I think it's clear acrylic or a plastic) to be absolutely perfect. I'll talk with our engineers here to see if there might be some way to address this in the future with a different material.


----------



## VSG

Ya, most plexi side panels will have the same issues if you look at it with a bright light. Most people light up the case on the inside and not the windows so it isn't as obvious as it is here. The only way to be sure is to go with glass slabs and then cut to desired thickness/dimensions but that will be expensive.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, most plexi side panels will have the same issues if you look at it with a bright light. Most people light up the case on the inside and not the windows so it isn't as obvious as it is here. The only way to be sure is to go with glass slabs and then cut to desired thickness/dimensions but that will be expensive.


Yes, I think you're absolutely right. Plexi does have those issues and there really isn't an easy way around it.


----------



## VSG

Maybe use something like the Bitfenix alchemy aqua LEDs to light up the fluid itself and not the window? That might actually look better with your UV active Hydrx coolant.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10620#post_22589278


Cool buddy


----------



## navit

How I love new toys to play with


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sylafari*
> 
> As you can see there is dust in the reservoir.


This is not dust, these are microscopic bubbles in the acrylic material, and they shine due to the reflections caused by the immediate proximity of the bright LED lights. I inspected different acrylic panels, and observed the same thing depending on light reflections. We'll talk to our injection molding guys, and see if different injection & cooling temperatures or different materials (like polycarbonate) would eliminate this, but I'm not sure its entirely possible. Maybe more diffusion of the light source would mask them ? For now, I see this as a refinement that we need to work on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> It also looks like the H220-X shipped with clear coolant.


yes the coolant is clear now, and there is no problem to add a few drops of your colouring dye to make it the color you want. I decided for this when I realized that you could change the color of the apogee XL.. No point shipping a blue coolant if the user changes the XL to red or something else, right ?


----------



## Sylafari

Thanks for the response. The microscopic bubbles are a non-issue for me. I really love the waterblock, the lighting on it is so bright and makes my old waterblock look incredibly dim by comparison.


----------



## [email protected]

H220-X First User (Chispy) Video Review


----------



## navit

Hats off to you Gabe, lovin the h220x so far


----------



## Larper

I'm actually extremely upset with swiftech right now. I owned a H220 for 3.5 months, it died on me. The RMA process was so slow that I just said screw it and bought a H220X. I was told i couldn't exchange the H220 for store credit because i bought it at a reseller. Which is pretty lame, but that's not the part that bugs me. The part that bugs me is i paid for 2nd day air on the new H220X. I got my H220X yesterday and installed it. It sounded fine, and ran fine. Today i come home from work and turn my PC on. It starts making all kinds of loud clicking/ticking noises. The sounds go away after about 5-10 minutes. But there is no way it should sound like that.

I still haven't received my first RMA back from them, and i'm going to have to start another one for a brand new product and wait another 2 weeks to get it. Completely unacceptable quality control. I'm waiting to see how many other people have this problem too as it's only a few days old. But honestly 2 different products from the same company. I can't be this unlucky.

I'm waiting to get a response back from Bryan, but i can't imagine every buying another swiftech product or recommending one. Unless they do some magical costumer service for me and step the quality control up.


----------



## thelude

Hi Brian, can you replace the h220 pump with the new pump on the h220x? Did you started to sell the pump separately? and can you do a little video guide? I need some more head pressure in my loop since i'm pushing 3 rads and 3 blocks. Thanks. And the new h220-x looks sweet.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Larper*
> 
> I'm actually extremely upset with swiftech right now. I owned a H220 for 3.5 months, it died on me. The RMA process was so slow that I just said screw it and bought a H220X. I was told i couldn't exchange the H220 for store credit because i bought it at a reseller. Which is pretty lame, but that's not the part that bugs me. The part that bugs me is i paid for 2nd day air on the new H220X. I got my H220X yesterday and installed it. It sounded fine, and ran fine. Today i come home from work and turn my PC on. It starts making all kinds of loud clicking/ticking noises. The sounds go away after about 5-10 minutes. But there is no way it should sound like that.
> 
> I still haven't received my first RMA back from them, and i'm going to have to start another one for a brand new product and wait another 2 weeks to get it. Completely unacceptable quality control. I'm waiting to see how many other people have this problem too as it's only a few days old. But honestly 2 different products from the same company. I can't be this unlucky.
> 
> I'm waiting to get a response back from Bryan, but i can't imagine every buying another swiftech product or recommending one. Unless they do some magical costumer service for me and step the quality control up.


are you running it on the correct header and orientation? Cause this is really bad luck


----------



## 66racer

Im curious if swiftech has plans to sell the rad/pump/res alone without the cpu block? Would be a great way for people with a good AIO on their cpu to get their gpu's on water....It comes up more than you would think on OCN with guys that bought an h100i or something which is a good cpu cooler and now want their gpus on water but feel stuck in terms of a cost effective way to do it.

Its redundant to buy another cpu cooler like the h220(x) when they only want the gpu on water since their cpu already is. Thats basically why the AIO mod for gpu's was born but those are still limited in their ability (like sli/cf), and unless you already have a spare AIO lying around, the h220x rad/res with a universal gpu block would be close in price and way better performing. Going from my h70 to the ek universal I lost 8-10c in temps which was incredible since the h70 was already 20c cooler than the asus dcii cooler.

Well just an idea


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Larper*
> 
> I'm actually extremely upset with swiftech right now. I owned a H220 for 3.5 months, it died on me. The RMA process was so slow that I just said screw it and bought a H220X. I was told i couldn't exchange the H220 for store credit because i bought it at a reseller. Which is pretty lame, but that's not the part that bugs me. The part that bugs me is i paid for 2nd day air on the new H220X. I got my H220X yesterday and installed it. It sounded fine, and ran fine. Today i come home from work and turn my PC on. It starts making all kinds of loud clicking/ticking noises. The sounds go away after about 5-10 minutes. But there is no way it should sound like that.
> 
> I still haven't received my first RMA back from them, and i'm going to have to start another one for a brand new product and wait another 2 weeks to get it. Completely unacceptable quality control. I'm waiting to see how many other people have this problem too as it's only a few days old. But honestly 2 different products from the same company. I can't be this unlucky.
> 
> I'm waiting to get a response back from Bryan, but i can't imagine every buying another swiftech product or recommending one. Unless they do some magical costumer service for me and step the quality control up.


I'm sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so that I can help you resolve these issues. It turns out that we shipped your replacement kit on the 22nd. You should have received a tracking number for it when it went out. I have your email address and I'll send you the tracking number today, but you should have the replacement shortly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hi Brian, can you replace the h220 pump with the new pump on the h220x? Did you started to sell the pump separately? and can you do a little video guide? I need some more head pressure in my loop since i'm pushing 3 rads and 3 blocks. Thanks. And the new h220-x looks sweet.


We've haven't started selling any of the stand-alone pumps that are compatible with these kits yet. The MCP50X that is compatible with these kits will be released in the next couple of weeks, if not sooner. I don't know how long it will be before we're able to make a video guide, but I'd be happy to walk you through the process once you get a replacement pump.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Im curious if swiftech has plans to sell the rad/pump/res alone without the cpu block? Would be a great way for people with a good AIO on their cpu to get their gpu's on water....It comes up more than you would think on OCN with guys that bought an h100i or something which is a good cpu cooler and now want their gpus on water but feel stuck in terms of a cost effective way to do it.
> 
> Its redundant to buy another cpu cooler like the h220(x) when they only want the gpu on water since their cpu already is. Thats basically why the AIO mod for gpu's was born but those are still limited in their ability (like sli/cf), and unless you already have a spare AIO lying around, the h220x rad/res with a universal gpu block would be close in price and way better performing. Going from my h70 to the ek universal I lost 8-10c in temps which was incredible since the h70 was already 20c cooler than the asus dcii cooler.
> 
> Well just an idea


They do! Here they are...

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c97/s1076/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-PC_Water_Cooling_Reservoirs-RadiatorPumpRes_Combo-Page1.html


----------



## Agoniizing

I got my 3rd replacement h220 pump today and as I started filling it, it started leaking between the block. I don't know what to say anymore at this point


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> I got my 3rd replacement h220 pump today and as I started filling it, it started leaking between the block. I don't know what to say anymore at this point


I ran this replacement over the course of a couple of days and it didn't leak. I wouldn't have shipped it if it did. Give the solution I sent you in the PM a try and let me know if that fixes it.


----------



## Mega Man

i really think shipping is whats killing them.i wont post another throwing stuff video ....

on the bright side i never have issues still on my first rev 1 h220

will be buying h220x soon ( i e a day or 2 )


----------



## Neo Zuko

Received my h220x. Life is cooler now.


----------



## naved777

LinusTechTips Review on H220x


----------



## Disabled

LinusTechTips has just uploaded a review of the H220X!


----------



## EarlZ

I've personally seen a lot of clear acrylics for side panel/res and none of them show any signs of the microscopic bubbles that shine as what gabe has said, I've inspected a friends acrylic res with led flash lights used to detect those bubbles and we could not find any. I also asked a friend of mine who does a lot of modding for others and he has informed me that the panels he uses are 100% clear and looks nothing like the images above. Hoping to see swiftech sort this out soon


----------



## Larper

Yes, it's installed at the top of my case in the correct orientation.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We've haven't started selling any of the stand-alone pumps that are compatible with these kits yet. *The MCP50X that is compatible with these kits will be released in the next couple of weeks, if not sooner*. I don't know how long it will be before we're able to make a video guide, but I'd be happy to walk you through the process once you get a replacement pump.


In the next couple weeks??? cmon Bryan I thought you guys said you have these in stock you just need to "dot the i's & cross some t's" Are there still issues with these pumps?
I'm sure you are aware that people plan their builds around new products, I understand unforseen things happen but this is getting a little insane. Last Friday these were supposed to go live with the H220x and they did for a bout 10 minutes and just as I was checking out POOF my cart goes empty and the pump disapperared from your website. So here I sit refreshing your page every hour of every day and now this update after my questions went unanswered. I'm trying to keep my cool here and be patient but it's been how many delays now







I guess maybe its time to replan for a different pump/res and spend an extra $100 or so. wow


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> In the next couple weeks??? cmon Bryan I thought you guys said you have these in stock you just need to "dot the i's & cross some t's" Are there still issues with these pumps?
> I'm sure you are aware that people plan their builds around new products, I understand unforseen things happen but this is getting a little insane. Last Friday these were supposed to go live with the H220x and they did for a bout 10 minutes and just as I was checking out POOF my cart goes empty and the pump disapperared from your website. So here I sit refreshing your page every hour of every day and now this update after my questions went unanswered. I'm trying to keep my cool here and be patient but it's been how many delays now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess maybe its time to replan for a different pump/res and spend an extra $100 or so. wow


The shipment from their factory in shenzen was expected to have the MC50X and Maelstrom 2s on it, but turned out to only have a few review units in the shipment with the H220Xs. The delay now is the shipping time for the next shipment to get to Swiftech HQ from Shenzen.

Some things can't be controlled.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Installed the H220-X last night, really happy with it so far. Getting much better temps than the Thermaltake water 3.0, somewhere around 8C but haven't done a full prime run to see what the actual values are. Impressed with how quiet it is, at idle can't hear it above the case fans, at full can barely hear the pump over the case fans but a massive improvement over the Asetek jet engine crap. Will be adding another rad and a Komodo LE block for my 780Ti when the pump outlet adapter is available so a can use compression fittings and 1/2" ID tubing throughout.

Bummer that some are having issues, have used swiftech pumps and other parts for years in previous builds and never a problem. The H220-X is exactly what I've been waiting for as I want the performance of water but don't really have the time or desire to build a custom loop again. Have some specks in the res window but nothing to get in a twist about, do wish it was the blue-ish color coolant but will change that when I drain it.


----------



## dreameer111

To those that already have this cooler, are you leaving the stock fans blowing air down into the case or switching the fan orientation so that they are blowing out of the case?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> To those that already have this cooler, are you leaving the stock fans blowing air down into the case or switching the fan orientation so that they are blowing out of the case?


I have left mine as is, ran my h220 that way as well.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> To those that already have this cooler, are you leaving the stock fans blowing air down into the case or switching the fan orientation so that they are blowing out of the case?


usually, if the situation allows for it, the radiator fans are run as intake so the rad gets fresh cool air from the outside which helps cool the water more than having warmer air from inside the case flowing over the rad fins. that should help shave off a few degrees


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> In the next couple weeks??? cmon Bryan I thought you guys said you have these in stock you just need to "dot the i's & cross some t's" Are there still issues with these pumps?
> I'm sure you are aware that people plan their builds around new products, I understand unforseen things happen but this is getting a little insane. Last Friday these were supposed to go live with the H220x and they did for a bout 10 minutes and just as I was checking out POOF my cart goes empty and the pump disapperared from your website. So here I sit refreshing your page every hour of every day and now this update after my questions went unanswered. I'm trying to keep my cool here and be patient but it's been how many delays now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess maybe its time to replan for a different pump/res and spend an extra $100 or so. wow


Relax, I am releasing the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2 later on today. What you experienced last week with the site was me double-checking that the live page behaved as I wanted 
We've been checking these pumps and Maelstrom V2 dual bay res with a fine tooth comb all week. We (specially Stephen our lead engineer) are happy with the results, so we are a go for action now


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Installed the H220-X last night, really happy with it so far. Getting much better temps than the Thermaltake water 3.0, somewhere around 8C but haven't done a full prime run to see what the actual values are. Impressed with how quiet it is, at idle can't hear it above the case fans, at full can barely hear the pump over the case fans but a massive improvement over the Asetek jet engine crap. Will be adding another rad and a Komodo LE block for my 780Ti when the pump outlet adapter is available so a can use compression fittings and 1/2" ID tubing throughout.
> 
> Bummer that some are having issues, have used swiftech pumps and other parts for years in previous builds and never a problem. The H220-X is exactly what I've been waiting for as I want the performance of water but don't really have the time or desire to build a custom loop again. Have some specks in the res window but nothing to get in a twist about, do wish it was the blue-ish color coolant but will change that when I drain it.


This a beautiful build you have here.. good job.

Hey guys, if you are happy with the product, I'd really appreciate it if you could post a small testimonial on the H220-X web page ;-)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> usually, if the situation allows for it, the radiator fans are run as intake so the rad gets fresh cool air from the outside which helps cool the water more than having warmer air from inside the case flowing over the rad fins. that should help shave off a few degrees


Usual controversy.. intake or exhaust ? I always do intake, to bring fresh ambient air to the rad and boost my performance. If the case is properly ventilated, you don't have to worry about case ambient temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> There is nothing passive about my aggressiveness but you wouldnt know that unless you were here, then again if you were here you wouldnt be runnin your mouth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm relaxed, I'm sure you can understand why my last comment may have come off as being a little impatient though, we first saw these back in what Februrary I didnt expect them till recently but as you know it's been delay after delay. You said a week ago that you had them sitting in the warehouse and they went live momentarily so I was just wondering if they were gonna be pulled because of another defect. Also I didnt know you were gonna do in house testing since Bryan said they did all that a month or two ago at the warehouse/shop or whatever. I apologize cause I must have missed the reply that stated their was a shipping error, that was my fault.
> I am glad that you guys decided this time to make sure everything is 100% before going to market, That proves that swiftech is a company that cares about it's customers.
> I apologize for becoming impatient with the process.


No worries, and no need to apologize.. I am HAPPY that you are impatient, you are our paying customers, our livelihood and we can't exist without you guys. We are just people, we work hard trying to make this world a better place by enjoying the things we care about. Sometimes we are brilliant, sometimes we suck, but we always care. Oh, and BTW, the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2 are out now


----------



## navit

loving it


----------



## sdmf74

Great Thanx Gabe, I noticed in the pictures (MCP50X pump) it doesnt show the cords at all, Are they braided by chance? If not are they able to be?

OCN code no longer working


----------



## jchambers2586

any one have temps for the new h220x running a 3570K at voltage at 1.3 volts and a overclock of 4.4. I have a last gen one and it runs at 70C please PM me with the results. I am trying to see what the actual performance difference between new and old is thanks.


----------



## Dudewitbow

its a good idea to state if your processor is delidded or not, programing you are using as a benchmark, as well as fan orientation.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Great Thanx Gabe, I noticed in the pictures (MCP50X pump) it doesnt show the cords at all, Are they braided by chance? If not are they able to be?
> 
> OCN code no longer working


I believe the OCN code only works for the H220X. Also I believe the cord is removeable, like on the H220X, hence the lack of visibility in the picture.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Installed the H220-X last night, really happy with it so far. Getting much better temps than the Thermaltake water 3.0, somewhere around 8C but haven't done a full prime run to see what the actual values are. Impressed with how quiet it is, at idle can't hear it above the case fans, at full can barely hear the pump over the case fans but a massive improvement over the Asetek jet engine crap. Will be adding another rad and a Komodo LE block for my 780Ti when the pump outlet adapter is available so a can use compression fittings and 1/2" ID tubing throughout.
> 
> Bummer that some are having issues, have used swiftech pumps and other parts for years in previous builds and never a problem. The H220-X is exactly what I've been waiting for as I want the performance of water but don't really have the time or desire to build a custom loop again. Have some specks in the res window but nothing to get in a twist about, do wish it was the blue-ish color coolant but will change that when I drain it.


Depends on how far you are from the CPU, mine is on the floor and about a meter away from me, the H220X replacement pump I got for my H220 is not audible at that distance even when all of my fans are turned off.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> No worries, and no need to apologize.. I am HAPPY that you are impatient, you are our paying customers, our livelihood and we can't exist without you guys. We are just people, we work hard trying to make this world a better place by enjoying the things we care about. Sometimes we are brilliant, sometimes we suck, but we always care. Oh, and BTW, the MCP50X and Maelstrom V2 are out now
Click to expand...

I too am impatient in waiting to get my hands on an H220X, no shipments for the Philippines (John) yet








j/k I hope we get the shipments soon


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Great Thanx Gabe, I noticed in the pictures (MCP50X pump) it doesnt show the cords at all, Are they braided by chance? If not are they able to be?
> 
> OCN code no longer working


OCN is only for H220-X

the cord is solid electrical cable.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I too am impatient in waiting to get my hands on an H220X, no shipments for the Philippines (John) yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k I hope we get the shipments soon


we do accept international orders now ;-)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I too am impatient in waiting to get my hands on an H220X, no shipments for the Philippines (John) yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k I hope we get the shipments soon


This is accidentally my predicament. I keep asking John and he's telling me he'll get them one month from now which is unbelievable







We're not even sure if he already ordered from Swiftech.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> we do accept international orders now ;-)


Yes, I can live with that and I really want to buy from you guys directly but can I get the warranty claim from John (our Philippines distributor) in case we have problems with it?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> OCN is only for H220-X
> 
> the cord is solid electrical cable.


Oh I thought the code was for the delays on both items, its still a good deal on the pump.

Since the pump has been released Can I ask what was the surprise add-on that Bryan eluded to? or is that being kept a surprise till available, I only ask cause I may wait to install if something is coming soon so I wont have to break down/drain system to add say a different pump top or something.
Also is it safe to assume that the pump mounting brackets that are available (such as the UN and the EK) are compatible? I know the new pump is taller but it seems as long as the screw holes are in the same place it willl work (same footprint)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> This is accidentally my predicament. I keep asking John and he's telling me he'll get them one month from now which is unbelievable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're not even sure if he already ordered from Swiftech.
> Yes, I can live with that and I really want to buy from you guys directly but can I get the warranty claim from John (our Philippines distributor) in case we have problems with it?


That would be up to John.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Oh I thought the code was for the delays on both items, its still a good deal on the pump.
> 
> Since the pump has been released Can I ask what was the surprise add-on that Bryan eluded to? or is that being kept a surprise till available, I only ask cause I may wait to install if something is coming soon so I wont have to break down/drain system to add say a different pump top or something.
> Also is it safe to assume that the pump mounting brackets that are available (such as the UN and the EK) are compatible? I know the new pump is taller but it seems as long as the screw holes are in the same place it willl work (same footprint)


I can't say anything else at this time regarding what the surprise will be. Also, this pump should be compatible with the mounting brackets you're talking about. Our engineer has already left for the day, so please remind me on Monday to enquire about that.


----------



## EarlZ

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I too am impatient in waiting to get my hands on an H220X, no shipments for the Philippines (John) yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k I hope we get the shipments soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we do accept international orders now ;-)
Click to expand...

Yeah I checked the site, Shipping to Ph is about $63.00 and thats close to half of the kit price and thats still with USPS and not UPS, Still subject to taxes. Unless a special lower rate shipping via UPS can me made for us Ph customers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I too am impatient in waiting to get my hands on an H220X, no shipments for the Philippines (John) yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k I hope we get the shipments soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is accidentally my predicament. I keep asking John and he's telling me he'll get them one month from now which is unbelievable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're not even sure if he already ordered from Swiftech.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> we do accept international orders now ;-)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I can live with that and I really want to buy from you guys directly but can I get the warranty claim from John (our Philippines distributor) in case we have problems with it?
Click to expand...

Bram always processed my replacements and I've only gone through John just once and the rest were from Bram so that should not be an issue, how are you planning to get the unit maybe we can collaborate on something ? Message me









EDIT: WAIT OMG 1 MONTH FROM NOW ???? NO WAY!!!


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That would be up to John.
> I can't say anything else at this time regarding what the surprise will be. Also, this pump should be compatible with the mounting brackets you're talking about. Our engineer has already left for the day, so please remind me on Monday to enquire about that.


I assume they would be since same footprint. I look forward to seeing what you have in store, Thanx


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> false
> Yeah I checked the site, Shipping to Ph is about $63.00 and thats close to half of the kit price and thats still with USPS and not UPS, Still subject to taxes. Unless a special lower rate shipping via UPS can me made for us Ph customers.
> Bram always processed my replacements and I've only gone through John just once and the rest were from Bram so that should not be an issue, how are you planning to get the unit maybe we can collaborate on something ? Message me


Ohh, is that right? I actually just emailed John and was asking if he would honor warranty for items bought from the US. I haven't receive any reply yet.

So you're saying that John has no problem with that and Bram will process it through John just fine?

I can easily buy from the US as I usually do. I do whatever I can to not lose the warranty though. Shoot me a PM so that we can work something out


----------



## EarlZ

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> false
> Yeah I checked the site, Shipping to Ph is about $63.00 and thats close to half of the kit price and thats still with USPS and not UPS, Still subject to taxes. Unless a special lower rate shipping via UPS can me made for us Ph customers.
> Bram always processed my replacements and I've only gone through John just once and the rest were from Bram so that should not be an issue, how are you planning to get the unit maybe we can collaborate on something ? Message me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh, is that right? I actually just emailed John and was asking if he would honor warranty for items bought from the US. I haven't receive any reply yet.
> 
> So you're saying that John has no problem with that and Bram will process it through John just fine?
> 
> I can easily buy from the US as I usually do. I do whatever I can to not lose the warranty though. Shoot me a PM so that we can work something out
Click to expand...

I got my kit from John and I had it replaced by him since it had issues, the further replacements like the impeller, pump and the new H220X pump was processed by Bram and sent to me but that may vary depending on the case. I am not sure if John can honor the warranty but we can always work something out with Bram/Swiftech and thats the greatest thing about them!

YGPM.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I'm curious as to how people are using the H220x pumps for the H220(non-x) when they RMA since the block and pump are one piece on the H220(non-x) and the pump for the H220x is attached to the rad?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'm curious as to how people are using the H220x pumps for the H220(non-x) when they RMA since the block and pump are one piece on the H220(non-x) and the pump for the H220x is attached to the rad?


The H220 and H220X pumps are detachable and have the same housing.


----------



## Gabkicks

I'm about to order h220x for my 4790k... $141 shipped standard after using code OCN...


----------



## M3TAl

Congrats on the Maelstrom V2 and MCP50X release Swiftech. I'll probably be picking up one or both around Novemeber/Decemeber time frame.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can't say anything else at this time regarding what the surprise will be. Also, this pump should be compatible with the mounting brackets you're talking about. Our engineer has already left for the day, so please remind me on Monday to enquire about that.


Why do I have this weird feeling, that there's an H220x with an mcp50x... as the surprise....


----------



## EarlZ

Good idea for a H320X with the MCP50X


----------



## VSG

The H220x has a slightly nerfed down version of the mcp50x as it is.


----------



## shanker

Got mine installed very easily. It took twenty minutes but I like to hide wiring that no one will ever bother to look at. About 10 degrees Celsius better than the H80 I was using right out of the gate. I have the spots on the acrylic too but I'll throw some blue dye in there to tint it and it should be less visible.

One thing I noticed was the cable end at the bottom of the pump is very loose. I got a cpu error on boot up but tapped the plug in and it was fine.

Cant wait for a card to throw in the loop with it! I'll post pictures later.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Why do I have this weird feeling, that there's an H220x with an mcp50x... as the surprise....


Oh... i thought the 220x's pump was the mcp50x?


----------



## M3TAl

It is but the max RPM is lower than the MCP50X, probably pulls a few less watts too.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It is but the max RPM is lower than the MCP50X, probably pulls a few less watts too.


By around 10w.


----------



## VSG

Chispy has a nice review up on HWBOT and possibly elsewhere too: http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?p=322951


----------



## jchambers2586

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its a good idea to state if your processor is delidded or not, programing you are using as a benchmark, as well as fan orientation.


No delid was done.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> By around 10w.


The h220x pump pulls 6w; the mcp50x pulls 25.8w

almost 20w... and the mcp50x can pump 14.3 liters per minute (about 860 LPH).

nerfed, no.... I think a whole different animal; one's suitable for all in one, one's suitable for all in one and about 8 rads, 3 gpus, and 2 cpus


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> The h220x pump pulls 6w; the mcp50x pulls 25.8w
> 
> almost 20w... and the mcp50x can pump 14.3 liters per minute (about 860 LPH).
> 
> nerfed, no.... I think a whole different animal; one's suitable for all in one, one's suitable for all in one and about 8 rads, 3 gpus, and 2 cpus


Wow, my guesstimates were way off, sorry. I didn't realize the MCP50X used that much power, but it makes sense since power usage goes up exponentially with head pressure. I certainly didn't mean the difference was marginal, quite the opposite, as you pointed out







. Thanks.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Chispy has a nice review up on HWBOT and possibly elsewhere too: http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?p=322951


video evidence that the 220x kicks ass


----------



## dansi

When will the 140mm version come out?

It is crazy how much more value for money this is compared to the many lazy assteks OEMs.

It is pity due to asstek lawsuits Swiftech moved the pump to the rads and cause more case compatibility headaches, so the lawsuits kind of work in a way.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> video evidence that the 220x kicks ass


Played a couple hours of BF4 tonight with Hardware Monitor running in the background, never saw above 58C which is a huge improvement over my previous cooler. My poor i7-2660K is not doing so well after years of running with a big OC under water cooling, but I'll be able to squeeze every bit of life out of it before I have to upgrade thanks to this. Best part is my pc sits an arms length from me on the desk and with pwm smart control on the mobo I barely hear it. Can't wait to add another rad and block for the Ti to see how well it does but pretty impressed so far.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Hello,

Proud owner of an H20-320 Elite kit - if everything goes okay it should be operational soon in a new (or maybe not-so-new) box.

I hardly know anything about LC in general, much less custom or open-loop LC, but I intend to try and change that in short order.

ACQ


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> This a beautiful build you have here.. good job.
> 
> Hey guys, if you are happy with the product, I'd really appreciate it if you could post a small testimonial on the H220-X web page ;-)


Thanks and done! Just wait til I get a Komodo LE and some other improvement into that build, going to be amazing!


----------



## M3TAl

Anyone interested in the MCP50X should find this useful/interesting. I took the charts provided by Swiftech for the MCP50X and MCP35X and roughly converted them to PSI and GPM. Here's the result:


----------



## Mega Man

ill lodge a complaint with swiftech. still want a daul pump !

perfered a QUAD pump housing. idc if it comes with them, for the love of all that is holy please please please make a quad pump housing that looks as sexay as the MCP350x !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ill buy 2-4 right now ......

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm 4 pumps in a line ....... makes me









LOVE the brackets on the new res too !


----------



## VSG

You will just burn out the last pump(s), that's all.


----------



## jam71

Boys of curiosity ', the fans are in dell'h220x push or pull? this system is not as versatile as the previous one, I'm looking for a way to slip it in the front of the case.


----------



## Bigm

Just bought an H320 from NCIXUS, anything I need to know?


----------



## Xaero1369

I recently became a Swiftech H320 owner. I will be expanding this to cool both CPU & GPU, details below:

Case: NZXT Phantom 820
PSU: NZXT Hale 90 V2 850W
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPower
CPU: Intel i7 3770K
RAM: 2x Samsung 'WonderRAM' LP 1.35V 1600MHz 8GB (2x4GB) - (16GB Total)
GPU: MSI R9 290 Gaming 4GB TwinFrozr IV
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 3TB
ODD: Asus BW-12B1ST (Blu-ray/DVD/CD Burner)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27" LED 2560x1440
Side Panel: NZXT Phantom 820 Window (same as Switch 810)

Water Cooling Setup:
Swiftech H320 - 360mm Radiator/Reservoir w/ 3x 120mm Helix PWM Fans, CPU Block/Pump, PWM Fan Splitter
MCR-H220 - 240mm Radiator/Reservoir w/ 2x 120mm Helix PWM Fans
EK-FC R9-290x Nickel+Acetal Rev 2.0
EK-FC R9-290x Reinforcer
2x EK-PSC Fitting 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID (for GPU Block)
Swiftech Snap-in Nylon Clamps (set of 4) (for MCR-H220)
Swiftech TruFlex 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID x 6.5' Tubing (White)
Swiftech HydrX PM 2 Coolant 16oz

Plan for the loop:
H320 on top (fans pushing air out the top of the case)
MCR-H220 on bottom (fans pushing air out the bottom of the case)
Tubing going from H320 -> Pump/CPU Block -> MCR-H220 -> GPU Block -> H320
Alternatively I could go H320 -> Pump/CPU Block -> GPU Block -> MCR-H220 -> H320

Case Airflow Plan:
2x 200mm fans on top exhaust
H320's 3x 120mm fans below radiator causing a push/pull
1x 140mm fan at rear intake
1x 200mm fan at front intake
MCR-H220's 2x 120 fans above radiator pushing down (bottom exhaust)
1x 140mm fan on HDD Pivot mount pushing air towards motherboard/GPU
PSU fan intake from bottom of case to PSU exhausting air out rear of PSU

Note - depending on the results of this setup, I may add additional 120/140mm fans below the 240mm rad on bottom to create a push/pull as well as swap out the top 200mm fans with 3x 120mm fans to increase the effectiveness of the H320 push/pull.

Does anyone have any suggestions that may improve either airflow within my case or cooling performance of my water cooling loop?


----------



## Dry Bonez

I was so close to purchase the 220x yesterday but couldnt find my wallet. Its a good thing i didnt. i have questions before making it final. As im kinda new but not really,lol. I would like to know first off if this fits in my CM storm stryker case,if so,what is the BEST place to mount the radiator? Another question,how much better is this than a Noctua NH D14? which i currently have BTW. and 1 last question,i read a comment that you can connect this to a GPU,is that possible? so i dont have to get an expensive waterblock for a GPU and can use this? im lost as to how this works with GPUs. It cant be better than GPU made coolers,im not sure. but then again,idk too much so i will leave the professionals answer this.


----------



## Caos

good, just bought a H220x, I'm from Paraguay - South America, the exact or approximate weight of h220x as is? I arrived about 1 week and a half.

enters the case corsair c70?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I was so close to purchase the 220x yesterday but couldnt find my wallet. Its a good thing i didnt. i have questions before making it final. As im kinda new but not really,lol.1 I would like to know first off if this fits in my CM storm stryker case, 2if so,what is the BEST place to mount the radiator? 3 Another question,how much better is this than a Noctua NH D14? which i currently have BTW. and 1 last question, 4 i read a comment that you can connect this to a GPU,is that possible? so i dont have to get an expensive waterblock for a GPU and can use this? im lost as to how this works with GPUs. It cant be better than GPU made coolers,im not sure. but then again,idk too much so i will leave the professionals answer this.


1 yes

2 the top however the front would work fine

3 yes

4 no, you need to buy a waterblock for the gpu be it universal or full cover,


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 yes
> 
> 2 the top however the front would work fine
> 
> 3 yes
> 
> 4 no, you need to buy a waterblock for the gpu be it universal or full cover,


Hey whats up Mega Man,thanks for the quick reply.i always look forward to your replies,very helpful indeed,i have seen you on many posts







ok,so great,it fits the CM stryker.got that out of the way. As far as placement,i most likely will go with mounting up top. now for the final segment before making my beautiful purchase of this beautiful beast of AIO cooler. ok,the GPU,so i HAVE to buy a waterblock huh? i have a GTX 580 and will be upgrading to either a 770 OR wait for the 800 series,are the waterblocks universal or do i have to get different WB for each graphic card? i have 0% experience or idea on GPU cooling. i am not sure if i will need extra tubing for the gpu to the cooler,i am lost in this field. please elaborate if you can please. thanks


----------



## Mega Man

tubing yes recommended, as is fittings ( to attach the tubing to the water block )
they make universal blocks that fit ~ 90% of gpus.

i dont like them.

as you have to put heatsinks on the vrms.memory and hope they are good enough ( various kits avail )

IE these

http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/universal-vga-blocks.html

and many more....

as to full cover. you just have to put them on, no extra heatsinks required however most recommend a backplate ! ( swiftech includes in block purchase ! i love swiftech blocks )


----------



## v1ral

Quick question to the people who ha e the h220x installed in a corsair 540 air, how much clearance do you h ave for mounting a 360 radiator to the front of the case with the res/rad up top?


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quick question to the people who ha e the h220x installed in a corsair 540 air, how much clearance do you h ave for mounting a 360 radiator to the front of the case with the res/rad up top?


Looks to be 4CM between the front fans (which I assume to be 25mm) to the fill port which is the part that sticks out the furthest towards the fans.


----------



## v1ral

So there isn't much room for expansion in that case huh??


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> So there isn't much room for expansion in that case huh??


Are youcells planning to buy one, or have youcells already bought one?

If you're just planning to buy a new case with watercooling compatibility on mind, then youcells should check the Nanoxia Deep Silence 6, or Caselabs cases.

http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/55/Deep+Silence+6+
http://www.nanoxia-world.com/product/1/63/Deep+Silence+6+Window

http://www.caselabs-store.com/


----------



## winderic

Hi All, having problem with my H220 and see if anyone have similar experience so you can guide me.

After owing the H220 for 9 months, I am now getting random cpu fan error. At first a restart or shut down will fix the issues but after few times doing that no longer fix the problem.
So, I directly plug the pump header to the CPU header on the m/b just in case the splitter was having problem. It work fine for a week without any issue, and it stop again today.
Below are what i had tried,
1. leave it whole day off and power again i the evening, still didn't work;
2. plug pump header to a fan header on m/b, restart and shut down didn't bring up the pump, radiator fans are still on splitter and still spinning;
3. plug the pump header back to the splitter and change the power connector to another connector, didn't work either;

So i thought, the pump must have officially die now. 30 minutes ago i thought i just give one last try to power up to see if it work, if not i want to backup my files before it burn my CPU, so i plug the pump header back to the CPU header and surprisingly is now work again.
It seems like is very random....sometime work sometime don't, this is still under warranty, so if really having problem I want to replace it. But i hate to see if i send it back the tech test it and is working, so do you guys have any suggestion for me to test to see what really happen here?

Thanks,
Eric


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Hi All, having problem with my H220 and see if anyone have similar experience so you can guide me.
> 
> After owing the H220 for 9 months, I am now getting random cpu fan error. At first a restart or shut down will fix the issues but after few times doing that no longer fix the problem.
> So, I directly plug the pump header to the CPU header on the m/b just in case the splitter was having problem. It work fine for a week without any issue, and it stop again today.
> Below are what i had tried,
> 1. leave it whole day off and power again i the evening, still didn't work;
> 2. plug pump header to a fan header on m/b, restart and shut down didn't bring up the pump, radiator fans are still on splitter and still spinning;
> 3. plug the pump header back to the splitter and change the power connector to another connector, didn't work either;
> 
> So i thought, the pump must have officially die now. 30 minutes ago i thought i just give one last try to power up to see if it work, if not i want to backup my files before it burn my CPU, so i plug the pump header back to the CPU header and surprisingly is now work again.
> It seems like is very random....sometime work sometime don't, this is still under warranty, so if really having problem I want to replace it. But i hate to see if i send it back the tech test it and is working, so do you guys have any suggestion for me to test to see what really happen here?
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


Ive tried this before that the pump died and after a couple of hours it was working again then a few days it fully died.


----------



## EarlZ

How do we make the H220X block perform a light breathe like on this video.


----------



## sdmf74

I cant wait to get my ROG Apogee XL hooked up


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Hi All, having problem with my H220 and see if anyone have similar experience so you can guide me.
> 
> After owing the H220 for 9 months, I am now getting random cpu fan error. At first a restart or shut down will fix the issues but after few times doing that no longer fix the problem.
> So, I directly plug the pump header to the CPU header on the m/b just in case the splitter was having problem. It work fine for a week without any issue, and it stop again today.
> Below are what i had tried,
> 1. leave it whole day off and power again i the evening, still didn't work;
> 2. plug pump header to a fan header on m/b, restart and shut down didn't bring up the pump, radiator fans are still on splitter and still spinning;
> 3. plug the pump header back to the splitter and change the power connector to another connector, didn't work either;
> 
> So i thought, the pump must have officially die now. 30 minutes ago i thought i just give one last try to power up to see if it work, if not i want to backup my files before it burn my CPU, so i plug the pump header back to the CPU header and surprisingly is now work again.
> It seems like is very random....sometime work sometime don't, this is still under warranty, so if really having problem I want to replace it. But i hate to see if i send it back the tech test it and is working, so do you guys have any suggestion for me to test to see what really happen here?
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


Sounds to me like it could have some sort of debris in the loop. I would contact Bryan to see if he can skype with you about disassembling and cleaning it, including the pump itself (6 screws, no biggie). I had a similar issue with mine and this was the cause.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> Hi All, having problem with my H220 and see if anyone have similar experience so you can guide me.
> 
> After owing the H220 for 9 months, I am now getting random cpu fan error. At first a restart or shut down will fix the issues but after few times doing that no longer fix the problem.
> So, I directly plug the pump header to the CPU header on the m/b just in case the splitter was having problem. It work fine for a week without any issue, and it stop again today.
> Below are what i had tried,
> 1. leave it whole day off and power again i the evening, still didn't work;
> 2. plug pump header to a fan header on m/b, restart and shut down didn't bring up the pump, radiator fans are still on splitter and still spinning;
> 3. plug the pump header back to the splitter and change the power connector to another connector, didn't work either;
> 
> So i thought, the pump must have officially die now. 30 minutes ago i thought i just give one last try to power up to see if it work, if not i want to backup my files before it burn my CPU, so i plug the pump header back to the CPU header and surprisingly is now work again.
> It seems like is very random....sometime work sometime don't, this is still under warranty, so if really having problem I want to replace it. But i hate to see if i send it back the tech test it and is working, so do you guys have any suggestion for me to test to see what really happen here?
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


Hi Eric. PM me about this so that I can help you resolve this issue. Phelan is right, it sounds like a possible debris issue.


----------



## shanker

Arc Mini R2


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Arc Mini R2


Shorter tubing works great in there. Given the shorter length of the rad (compared to the origin 220), i guess the 220x fits in the defineR4 too?


----------



## Neo Zuko

I wanted to say the H220X feels nice in the hand, more than I thought it would. I can't wait to hook it up this week in my Case Labs SM8 build.


----------



## Martinm210

Congrats on the h220x release! Looks like a nice unit and has obviously been going through the rounds of refinement!


----------



## BornOfScreams

Anyone know if the H220X fits in the NZXT Source 530. Really want to pick one up but worried about compatibility.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> So there isn't much room for expansion in that case huh??


Enough room for a standard size/thickness rad, just not the 'Monsta" or Aqua thick rads. I'm debating whether to wait for the next Nvidia iteration which is due out in the fall (I think) or just go ahead and put my 780Ti under water now with a Komodo LE block until Pascal comes out, either way I will be adding a 360 rad in the H220-X loop for the GPU and it will fit in the front position of the 540 Air case no problem.


----------



## krusty50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Arc Mini R2


Do you know if the tubing is long enough to front mount it? I currently have a Corsair H100 front-mounted in my Arc Mini R2 and was wondering if I could easily upgrade to the H220X


----------



## winderic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Ive tried this before that the pump died and after a couple of hours it was working again then a few days it fully died.


i hope if it die this time it really die, not like going to power up again after few days, pretty annoying like this.


----------



## winderic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Sounds to me like it could have some sort of debris in the loop. I would contact Bryan to see if he can skype with you about disassembling and cleaning it, including the pump itself (6 screws, no biggie). I had a similar issue with mine and this was the cause.


But it have been working fine for 9 months, how come suddenly have debric? is this normal?
Also, won't breaking it apart void warranty? Will contact Brayn and see what he says. Thanks


----------



## winderic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Hi Eric. PM me about this so that I can help you resolve this issue. Phelan is right, it sounds like a possible debris issue.


Hi Bryan, PM Sent. thanks


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winderic*
> 
> But it have been working fine for 9 months, how come suddenly have debric? is this normal?
> Also, won't breaking it apart void warranty? Will contact Brayn and see what he says. Thanks


As long as you have a Swiftech employee (ex. Bryan) guide you through the dissembly process. This will not void your warranty. I had to do this when I had plastizer build up in my H220.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BornOfScreams*
> 
> Anyone know if the H220X fits in the NZXT Source 530. Really want to pick one up but worried about compatibility.


pcpartpicker says that the 220 AND the 320 are compatible but they don't say about the 220X or whether the "compatibility" means internal or external mounted.

So I would check with Bryan Ramirez at Swiftech and see if he can help.

ACQ


----------



## WhiteRice




----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*


Nicely done! Having the ports on the front radiator located at the top will certainly make bleeding air out easier.


----------



## thelude

Hey Brian. Can you take apart the H220-X? Or do I have to buy the pump and cpu block separately? Since its almost the same price. And plus if you buy the kit you get the rads, fans, and etc with it. Reason why I'm asking is because I already have the H220 and all I'm looking for is the block and stronger pump. Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey Brian. Can you take apart the H220-X? Or do I have to buy the pump and cpu block separately? Since its almost the same price. And plus if you buy the kit you get the rads, fans, and etc with it. Reason why I'm asking is because I already have the H220 and all I'm looking for is the block and stronger pump. Thanks.


Yes, you can take the H220X apart. That's not a problem. For what you're trying to do though there really isn't a way to do it at the moment. You can upgrade the pump on the H220 to our new MCP50X, but you'd have to keep the H220 water block.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

is that a 350D?!


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can take the H220X apart. That's not a problem. For what you're trying to do though there really isn't a way to do it at the moment. You can upgrade the pump on the H220 to our new MCP50X, but you'd have to keep the H220 water block.


Thanks. But the new block looks so awesome though.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*


Is that the 80mm thick Monsta? Can never get over that massive beast haha.


----------



## parry1994

Hello I'm new here!








I have a few questions and hope somebody could help me.

So I was planning to go full watercooled on my new build I'm currently working on. What I was thinking about is to go for a Swiftech H220-X (or H240-X, we'll see.) and expand it to cool two Asus GTX 780 Poseidon GPUs. Does it have power enough? I might also add a Swiftech 140mm radiator between CPU and GPU on the back of the case. Also does anybody have a clue when the H240-X could possibly hit the market?

By the way, the specs of my new rig with this cooling would be:
Intel i7 4790k up to 4,8GHz
2x Asus GTX 780 Poseidon SLI
Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x4GB
Asus Maximus VII Hero
Corsair AX860
Samsung 840 Evo 2x500GB Raid 0
Corsair 760T case

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Hello I'm new here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions and hope somebody could help me.
> 
> So I was planning to go full watercooled on my new build I'm currently working on. What I was thinking about is to go for a Swiftech H220-X (or H240-X, we'll see.) and expand it to cool two Asus GTX 780 Poseidon GPUs. Does it have power enough? I might also add a Swiftech 140mm radiator between CPU and GPU on the back of the case. Also does anybody have a clue when the H240-X could possibly hit the market?
> 
> By the way, the specs of my new rig with this cooling would be:
> Intel i7 4790k up to 4,8GHz
> 2x Asus GTX 780 Poseidon SLI
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x4GB
> Asus Maximus VII Hero
> Corsair AX860
> Samsung 840 Evo 2x500GB Raid 0
> Corsair 760T case
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Hiya Parry.....I'm new as well, but think I can answer some for you.

A general rule I seem to remember seeing batted around is 120mm of Rad per major-ish component (CPU, GPU). So with 2 GPUs, the extra 140 Rad would be advisable I believe.

Whether the pump can push that much, that might be stretching it.........but I'll leave it to the experienced people to say.


----------



## Mega Man

general water cooling rule is 120+ 120 for each component


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> general water cooling rule is 120+ 120 for each component


Isn't it 120 x (number of components + 1) ?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Isn't it 120 x (number of components + 1) ?


I've heard anything ranging from "120mm of normal thickness radiator per connected component (ie: CPU, GPU, etc.,), assuming those components are at their stock speeds, to 120mm (number of components + 1); which is good for having some leeway, to even a double-120mm for each component - which is better for OC'd components, or for assurance with non-OC'd components that they'll receive adequate cooling regardless of the environment. Could one feasibly cool 2 780 Ti's and a 4790k with a single H220x? Absolutely, and there's enough pump power and a low enough fpi density to do it... but I'd rather have the piece of mind that comes with a 2nd radiator if I were to do that. Admittedly, I'm not sure how much of a role rad thickness plays - although seeing WhiteRice's Monsta in the front of his 350D with an h220x loop means the h220x's pump must have a lot of power to it - but I'd believe that a monsta with some sort of high speed fan (NF-F12 industrial 3000rpm, or something like that), would be an absolute cooling monster and hold quite a bit of liquid.

And btw, seeing whiterice's picture of a H220x in a 350D, is a HUGE confidence booster.

Jason


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> general water cooling rule is 120+ 120 for each component
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't it 120 x (number of components + 1) ?
Click to expand...

yes, same thing i just said, just differently


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, same thing i just said, just differently


Oh ok. I just thought that you said 120 + 120 (2 x 120) per component so that means that if you have two components you'll have 4 x 120 but all we really need is 3 x 120. I guess I just thought of it differently.


----------



## mcnumpty23

after 1 year of continuous use with absolutely no issues my pump is making a noise,,is it likely that i need to top up with some water?


----------



## parry1994

Oh ok thanks, so I will add the second rad 140x140 in the back. Will this loop do fine?
I'm very new to these "custom" waterloop and have a few problems choosing the right components.

So basically how I would set up my waterloop would the following:
Put 90° adapter on all 4 in/out on the GPUs and two on the top radiator: total 6x 90° adapters)
(these http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx)

And then 4x compression fittings on the 4 GPU in/out and 2 on each radiator: total 8x compression fittings
(these http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx)
I'm no quite sure if these fittings work fine with the ones on the CPU block, also I'm not sure what size of tubing I'd need.

Oh and the back additional radiator would be the Swiftech 140x140 (http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx40-qp.aspx)

Would these components and loop match so far?
And a big thanks to everyone for helping out a custom watercooling noob!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok thanks, so I will add the second rad 140x140 in the back. Will this loop do fine?
> I'm very new to these "custom" waterloop and have a few problems choosing the right components.
> 
> So basically how I would set up my waterloop would the following:
> Put 90° adapter on all 4 in/out on the GPUs and two on the top radiator: total 6x 90° adapters)
> (these http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx)
> 
> And then 4x compression fittings on the 4 GPU in/out and 2 on each radiator: total 8x compression fittings
> (these http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx)
> I'm no quite sure if these fittings work fine with the ones on the CPU block, also I'm not sure what size of tubing I'd need.
> 
> Oh and the back additional radiator would be the Swiftech 140x140 (http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx40-qp.aspx)
> 
> Would these components and loop match so far?
> And a big thanks to everyone for helping out a custom watercooling noob!


Go for it







.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Is that the 80mm thick Monsta? Can never get over that massive beast haha.


Yep. Just fits.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. I just thought that you said 120 + 120 (2 x 120) per component so that means that if you have two components you'll have 4 x 120 but all we really need is 3 x 120. I guess I just thought of it differently.


Its not that easy...first you have decide what you want out of the cooling loop. For example, I'm building mine for moderate overclocks and extremely low noise. I've build the system around that starting from picking a case, to cool an i7 (currently a 2600K but will upgrde to a 4790 later this week) and a 780Ti I will use the h220-x and another 280 or 360 rad optimized for low RPM fans. By using at least 2x120 for each component and a pump able to maintain acceptable flows in that loop, I can use optimized PWM to control the fans to keep noise low even when gaming. I choose low noise over headroom for overclocking and a little higher delta is acceptable to me in order to achieve that, others want deltas of 5C or less in order to get huge overclocks and design their loops towards that. It all depends on what you want the watercooling to do for you.

If its possible in parry's case it might be better off getting an external radiator mount which could allow a larger rad. i7 plus 2 gpu's at 3x120 requires cooling up to 700W or so, certainly possible but could require a level of fan noise you aren't happy with to keep things under control with that setup.

Anyone thinking about water cooling I recommend you spend some time researching before you dive in, knowing what you want out of your loop will help you design it and you'll be a lot happier in the long run.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ok but what tubing and compression fittings size would I need to match the ones on the CPU block? Is it the 3/8" - 1/2", I also can't find any reseller for Italy, I guess i have to go for shipping from US.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Its not that easy...first you have decide what you want out of the cooling loop. For example, I'm building mine for moderate overclocks and extremely low noise. I've build the system around that starting from picking a case, to cool an i7 (currently a 2600K but will upgrde to a 4790 later this week) and a 780Ti I will use the h220-x and another 280 or 360 rad optimized for low RPM fans. By using at least 2x120 for each component and a pump able to maintain acceptable flows in that loop, I can use optimized PWM to control the fans to keep noise low even when gaming. I choose low noise over headroom for overclocking and a little higher delta is acceptable to me in order to achieve that, others want deltas of 5C or less in order to get huge overclocks and design their loops towards that. It all depends on what you want the watercooling to do for you.
> 
> If its possible in your case you might be better off getting an external radiator mount which could allow a larger rad. i7 plus 2 gpu's at 3x120 requires cooling up to 700W or so, certainly possible but could require a level of fan noise you aren't happy with to keep things under control with that setup.
> 
> Whatever you decide I recommend you spend some time researching water cooling before you dive in, knowing what you want out of your loop will help you design it and you'll be a lot happier in the long run.


Got it. Thanks!


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. Thanks!


Happy to help, I think my post was more meant for Parry than you. Apologies if I misfired.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Ok but what tubing and compression fittings size would I need to match the ones on the CPU block? Is it the 3/8" - 1/2", I also can't find any reseller for Italy, I guess i have to go for shipping from US.


Parry, tubing is 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD (10/16mm). Please read my post above, what are you wanting the water cooling loop to do for you?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Ok but what tubing and compression fittings size would I need to match the ones on the CPU block? Is it the 3/8" - 1/2", I also can't find any reseller for Italy, I guess i have to go for shipping from US.


3/8"x5/8", however in a few weeks there will be a G1/4" adapter that will be available from Swiftech to install in place of the barb on the pump, so with that you can run whatever tubing size and G1/4" fittings you like.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Happy to help, I think my post was more meant for Parry than you. Apologies if I misfired.
> Parry, tubing is 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD (10/16mm). Please read my post above, what are you wanting the water cooling loop to do for you?


Oh right, I just noticed by myself. Yeah well I look for a quiet rig aswell, but I don't mind if the temps are a bit higher due to lower RPM, as it still keeps the rig on a very cool level anyways.
And for the additional rad i use a single 140x140. So for the whole loop i'd have following in my cart: h220x, 140mm rad, 140mm fan, 4x 90° adapter and 3/8" - 5/8" comp fittings. Liquid and tubing I'll need to look somewhere else, but it will obv be the right matching 3/8"-5/8" colored tube with normal distilled water.

I just get into problems buying this stuff, does Swiftech offer international shipping on ALL products? I hardly find these components in the EU that ship to Italy, maybe somebody know an EU located retailer?


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 3/8"x5/8", however in a few weeks there will be a G1/4" adapter that will be available from Swiftech to install in place of the barb on the pump, so with that you can run whatever tubing size and G1/4" fittings you like.


Thank you, but I think 3/8"-5/8" tubing is ok so I don't mind about these adapters.


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Looks to be 4CM between the front fans (which I assume to be 25mm) to the fill port which is the part that sticks out the furthest towards the fans.


The new Swiftech H220-X is compatible with high-profile ram modules? The radiator with integrated pump may interfere?
Thanks


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> I hardly find these components in the EU that ship to Italy, maybe somebody know an EU located retailer?


http://www.aquatuning.it/

Themcells ship from "Germany™".


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.it/
> 
> Themcells ship from "Germany™".


I really don't understand what's with the cells?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> The new Swiftech H220-X is compatible with high-profile ram modules? The radiator with integrated pump may interfere?
> Thanks


It can interfere but there is enough clearance for most units.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> The new Swiftech H220-X is compatible with high-profile ram modules? The radiator with integrated pump may interfere?
> Thanks


If the memory modules are higher than 6cm and the radiator side is at the same level as the motherboard PCB, then it will interfere with the pump, if the pump is located on top of the memory slots.

Usually the radiator is slightly away from MB PCB, and there hardly are memory modules, that are higher than 6cm, or even near that height.

So the possibility is mostly minimum.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> after 1 year of continuous use with absolutely no issues my pump is making a noise,,is it likely that i need to top up with some water?


Yes, most likely that's all you need to do. Just try adding some distilled water to your radiator to see if that resolves your issue.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It can interfere but there is enough clearance for most units.


Is corsair vengeance pro DDR3-2400 RAM considered "super tall", or should that be OK?

Also, is the VRM height on the maximus vii gene an issue?


----------



## orndorf77

is the cooler master glacier 240l the same exact cooler as the swiftech h220 ? and if not which cooler is better ?


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.it/
> 
> Themcells ship from "Germany™".


Oh thank you, didn't know they are .it aswell, I mailed the .de site and asked for international shipping








But all I see are the comp fittings, the 90° are all sold out and there is no rad, far, nor the h220x :/


----------



## LOKI23NY

Been waiting since these were first announced and just placed my order!

Anyone recommend a certain brand of tubing to use? Have read about plasticizer issues with some. I'm planning on expanding the loop to my gpu and was thinking about swapping out the black tubing for blue since it will go with my color theme.

I'm thinking that adding a second 140mm radiator should do the trick once the gpu is added to the loop.


----------



## sdmf74

Does anyone know what the deal is with the off center holes in the mcp35x heat sink? not the outer holes for the legs


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Oh thank you, didn't know they are .it aswell, I mailed the .de site and asked for international shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all I see are the comp fittings, the 90° are all sold out and there is no rad, far, nor the h220x :/


Theircells stock is continuously changing, and sometimes things are out of stock, but they are reordered most likely and delivered as soon as the items are at stock.

The H220-X is still too new that theycells has not received them yet, or just have not yet put them onto their website item list?

Youcells can ask for the H220-X from themcells and theycells can say more of them coming available near future.

There are other brand radiators, tubes and fittings to be chosen, so no need to just try to find one certain brand products.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is the cooler master glacier 240l the same exact cooler as the swiftech h220 ? and if not which cooler is better ?


slight differences. Coolermaster uses slightly more aggressive fans(better cooling, more noise) as well as a higher top RPM rate of 3500(instead of the h220's 3000) on the pump. Swiftech includes a pwm splitter, the CM unit doesnt.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, most likely that's all you need to do. Just try adding some distilled water to your radiator to see if that resolves your issue.


thanks,,as i have the radiator mounted vertically i need to remove it to top up,,should i flush the whole thing while i have it removed?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thanks,,as i have the radiator mounted vertically i need to remove it to top up,,should i flush the whole thing while i have it removed?


If you have it mounted vertically is the reservoir on the bottom or at the top?


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> If the memory modules are higher than 6cm and the radiator side is at the same level as the motherboard PCB, then it will interfere with the pump, if the pump is located on top of the memory slots.
> 
> Usually the radiator is slightly away from MB PCB, and there hardly are memory modules, that are higher than 6cm, or even near that height.
> 
> So the possibility is mostly minimum.


I use G Skill Ripjaws X series - 40 mm / 1.58 inch.
I should not have problems as you say. Thank you
I'm going to buy but I also want to wait for the first extensive testing of noise and quality of the pump, the silence is my priority


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Theircells stock is continuously changing, and sometimes things are out of stock, but they are reordered most likely and delivered as soon as the items are at stock.
> 
> The H220-X is still too new that theycells has not received them yet, or just have not yet put them onto their website item list?
> 
> Youcells can ask for the H220-X from themcells and theycells can say more of them coming available near future.
> 
> There are other brand radiators, tubes and fittings to be chosen, so no need to just try to find one certain brand products.


Sorry, but what are Youcells and Theircells?
The 140 Fan isn't listed anywhere. I would like to puchase everything on Swiftech.com if the shipping to Italy is supported. I know taxes etc, but in the end it's not much of a difference. But I think it doesn't support it, when I tried to checkout it didn't list any shipping at all. Could any Swiftech chief here help me out? (emailed ST, no replay yet) This would be in my cart.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you have it mounted vertically is the reservoir on the bottom or at the top?


thanks for the replies,,swiftech support rocks,,reservoir is at the top facing the front of the case.i removed my 3.5 drive bays to make it fit in my coolermaster storm trooper



edited,,,my bad its so long since i put it in there i got it wrong//fill port is at bottom


----------



## Thrasher1016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Sorry, but what are Youcells and Theircells?


Every time I see him talk it makes me think of the old tongue twister:

"She sells sea shells by the sea shore..."

Thanks - T


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thanks for the replies,,swiftech support rocks,,reservoir is at the top facing the front of the case.i removed my 3.5 drive bays to make it fit in my coolermaster storm trooper
> 
> http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/20130804_205643_zps22671982.jpg.html
> 
> edited,,,my bad its so long since i put it in there i got it wrong//fill port is at bottom


You can leave the radiator in that position and it wouldn't hurt to flush the whole unit either.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Sorry, but what are Youcells and Theircells?
> The 140 Fan isn't listed anywhere. I would like to puchase everything on Swiftech.com if the shipping to Italy is supported. I know taxes etc, but in the end it's not much of a difference. But I think it doesn't support it, when I tried to checkout it didn't list any shipping at all. Could any Swiftech chief here help me out? (emailed ST, no replay yet) This would be in my cart.


You have to select the country in the drop down menu. Then you'll be able to place your order and see the international shipping rates.


----------



## mcnumpty23

thanks bramsli1 for your replies

noise is intermittent ,,im going to check its not from anything else first just in case its not the pump---typically its stopped at the moment

be handy if i could top it up in situ,,as its suspended there with cable ties,,which actually works really well


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Been waiting since these were first announced and just placed my order!
> 
> *Anyone recommend a certain brand of tubing to use?* Have read about plasticizer issues with some. I'm planning on expanding the loop to my gpu and was thinking about swapping out the black tubing for blue since it will go with my color theme.


Not sure if this is the color you r shootin for but the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in. x 5/8in. Tubing (10ft pack) - Brilliant UV Blue is awesome stuff, Im using the white. Just make sure you get the newer (advanced) version, I heard the older stuff had plasticizer issues.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thrasher1016*
> 
> Every time I see him talk it makes me think of the old tongue twister:
> 
> "She sells sea shells by the sea shore..."
> 
> Thanks - T


No offense weofus but I gotta ask do you speak that way too?


----------



## VSG

I already asked him before and got a random answer that made no sense. Just let it be, the guy is very helpful and his posts are legible enough


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I remember him kinda explaining why I was just wondering if he speaks that way too, You cant tell me you havent wondered the same thing. It's all good I just had to ask hopefully he dont take offense


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I already asked him before and got a random answer that made no sense. Just let it be, the guy is very helpful and his posts are legible enough


Yes, I have to agree. He's been very helpful to me as well.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You have to select the country in the drop down menu. Then you'll be able to place your order and see the international shipping rates.


Oh ok I found it now, thanks!
It would come down to 305$. How high will the taxes to pay afterwards be when sending to Italy? Would 20% seem legit? I have no cle about this at all.


----------



## parry1994

Oh and I have one last question before I'm about to buy everything for my new custom loop...
Tubing. I would really like to go with transparent tubing with colored liquid fluid. I heard something about these premade coolant / colored liquid (or however you call it, *noob here) isnt really recommended, but why? And if it's no problem to use them, what branded fluid could you suggest me? (should be a nice bloody red to match with Asus VII Hero board and two 780s Poseidon)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Oh and I have one last question before I'm about to buy everything for my new custom loop...
> Tubing. I would really like to go with transparent tubing with colored liquid fluid. I heard something about these premade coolant / colored liquid (or however you call it, *noob here) isnt really recommended, but why? And if it's no problem to use them, what branded fluid could you suggest me? (should be a nice bloody red to match with Asus VII Hero board and two 780s Poseidon)
> 
> Thanks in advance!


PrimoFlex Advanced LRT + Mayhems Pastel or X1. Pastel if you want solid/opaque or X1 for see-through. Pastel can be more difficult/require more prep work, it can be very sensitive to pH levels. If using any Alphacool/Phobya rads then it is basically required to clean them with Mayhem's Blitz kit (they're very dirty rads that need extra care for Pastel).


----------



## dgof09

I understand that the acrylic window imperfections are amplified in the light, but in my reservoir I can clearly see pieces of debris floating. I don't want to install before anyone can tell me if this will harm the pump/ performance. Should i drain it and replace the coolant to remove the debris from the loop? In the pictures i wanted to show that the debris moves depending on the orientation of the radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgof09*
> 
> I understand that the acrylic window imperfections are amplified in the light, but in my reservoir I can clearly see pieces of debris floating. I don't want to install before anyone can tell me if this will harm the pump/ performance. Should i drain it and replace the coolant to remove the debris from the loop? In the pictures i wanted to show that the debris moves depending on the orientation of the radiator.


The small particles that you're seeing are simply from the dye used in the coolant settling in the fluid. This is normal and once you run it for a few minutes these will dissolve again in the coolant. This is pretty normal for any coolant that has a dye or color additive.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Oh and I have one last question before I'm about to buy everything for my new custom loop...
> Tubing. I would really like to go with transparent tubing with colored liquid fluid. I heard something about these premade coolant / colored liquid (or however you call it, *noob here) isnt really recommended, but why? And if it's no problem to use them, what branded fluid could you suggest me? (should be a nice bloody red to match with Asus VII Hero board and two 780s Poseidon)
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Some dyes will stain blocks, settle out and cause reduced flows, can be toxic and some have been found to actually not cool all that well. The coolant in the H220-X is propylene glycol based and without dye, thats the stuff used in athsma inhalers and e-cigs so not toxic, I don't know about its cooling benefits but it seems to work well. Personally I use colored tubing with distilled water and a biocide, works really well and none of the drawbacks. Plus good quality colored tubing is shiny and will reflect light well, can do some very cool effects with LED's.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Oh and I have one last question before I'm about to buy everything for my new custom loop...
> Tubing. I would really like to go with transparent tubing with colored liquid fluid. I heard something about these premade coolant / colored liquid (or however you call it, *noob here) isnt really recommended, but why? And if it's no problem to use them, what branded fluid could you suggest me? (should be a nice bloody red to match with Asus VII Hero board and two 780s Poseidon)
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Some dyes will stain blocks, settle out and cause reduced flows, can be toxic and some have been found to actually not cool all that well. The coolant in the H220-X is propylene glycol based and without dye, thats the stuff used in athsma inhalers and e-cigs so not toxic, I don't know about its cooling benefits but it seems to work well. Personally I use colored tubing with distilled water and a biocide, works really well and none of the drawbacks. Plus good quality colored tubing is shiny and will reflect light well, can do some very cool effects with LED's.
Click to expand...

actually better known for

toothpaste
dr pepper
the little chocolate donuts ( hostess )
fog machines ..... ect


----------



## dgof09

Thank you so much, i have been excited about this cooler for months now and just wanted it to be sure. Can't wait to install this tomorrow, and thank you to all the swiftech support team members







i see you guys on multiple forums helping to keep all of your customer happy as well as helping anyone who has any inquiries on your products.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Some dyes will stain blocks, settle out and cause reduced flows, can be toxic and some have been found to actually not cool all that well. The coolant in the H220-X is propylene glycol based and without dye, thats the stuff used in athsma inhalers and e-cigs so not toxic, I don't know about its cooling benefits but it seems to work well. Personally I use colored tubing with distilled water and a biocide, works really well and none of the drawbacks. Plus good quality colored tubing is shiny and will reflect light well, can do some very cool effects with LED's.


Oh yea as a beginner I'll deff go with a colored tubing and distilled water to avoid most problems.
Do you have any tubing brand to recommend? Either a solid strong red or a half-transparet/red tube (but idk if they look that great). Size: 3/8" - 5/8"


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Oh and I have one last question before I'm about to buy everything for my new custom loop...
> Tubing. I would really like to go with transparent tubing with colored liquid fluid. I heard something about these premade coolant / colored liquid (or however you call it, *noob here) isnt really recommended, but why? And if it's no problem to use them, what branded fluid could you suggest me? (should be a nice bloody red to match with Asus VII Hero board and two 780s Poseidon)
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Some dyes will stain blocks, settle out and cause reduced flows, can be toxic and some have been found to actually not cool all that well. The coolant in the H220-X is propylene glycol based and without dye, thats the stuff used in athsma inhalers and e-cigs so not toxic, I don't know about its cooling benefits but it seems to work well. Personally I use colored tubing with distilled water and a biocide, works really well and none of the drawbacks. Plus good quality colored tubing is shiny and will reflect light well, can do some very cool effects with LED's.
Click to expand...

Bram said that they are using dyes, just above your post.


----------



## Alphas

Hi Bryan

Can I know what material is the truflex tube made of? I am intending to get either PVC or silicone tubing, which should I choose since PVC has less flex but silicone tubes loses water faster?


----------



## Disabled

Here's some nice shots of the H220-X waterblock or Apogee XL


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The small particles that you're seeing are simply from the dye used in the coolant settling in the fluid. This is normal and once you run it for a few minutes these will dissolve again in the coolant. This is pretty normal for any coolant that has a dye or color additive.


Thanks on clearing that up.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Bram said that they are using dyes, just above your post.


Yep, you are correct. Gabe said a couple days ago they decided not to use dye so people could add their own if desired so...maybe its a UV additive? Dunno, I'll wait for Bram or Gabe to clarify.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Yep, you are correct. Gabe said a couple days ago they decided not to use dye so people could add their own if desired so...maybe its a UV additive? Dunno, I'll wait for Bram or Gabe to clarify.


That's correct. I think I was thinking of the H220. The particles are likely from the additives in the coolant that prevent corrosion and algae growth. Let me look into this further and get back to you.


----------



## Nightwing95

Sorry for the low quality pics.

The case is a Corsair 450D, I removed the top drive bay to make more room for the H220-X.





I'm happy with it, however right out of the box it was very filthy, covered in some kind of yellow dust?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwing95*
> 
> I'm happy with it, however right out of the box it was very filthy, covered in some kind of yellow dust?


yellow dust is packaging material (the protective brownish molded cardboard protecting the kit during transit) this cannot be avoided.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgof09*
> 
> I understand that the acrylic window imperfections are amplified in the light, but in my reservoir I can clearly see pieces of debris floating. I don't want to install before anyone can tell me if this will harm the pump/ performance. Should i drain it and replace the coolant to remove the debris from the loop? In the pictures i wanted to show that the debris moves depending on the orientation of the radiator.


radiators are washed after fabrication in an ulrasonic bath. then they are flushed again before Kit assembly with filtered water... then the kits are filled with filtered coolant. odds for contamination with foreign materials (dust etc..) are reduced to a an absolute minimum, but I learnt from experience that anything is possible. Nonetheless, we have not observed anything in the kits that we have inspected and shipped so far. I wouldn't bother refilling the kit.


----------



## VSG

I can confirm Swiftech rads are some of the cleanest in the market now. I have some from 5-6 manufacturers now and some needed an acid bath while others needed a flush with distilled water. I really wouldn't worry about the rads themselves here.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

I'm in the H220x club! (just finalized my order)


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I'm in the H220x club! (just finalized my order)


im about to join you buddy. what plans you got for this bad boy on the block?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> im about to join you buddy. what plans you got for this bad boy on the block?


CPU cooler for an Obsidian 350D with a Maximus VII Gene and a 4790K.


----------



## Alphas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alphas*
> 
> Hi Bryan
> 
> Can I know what material is the truflex tube made of? I am intending to get either PVC or silicone tubing, which should I choose since PVC has less flex but silicone tubes loses water faster?


Does anyone know the material used in truflex tube?


----------



## NIK1

H220X will be at NCIX in Mississauga Ont sometime towards the end of Aug. Any place where I could get one now.Also,do you think it will out shine, cool better than the H220.It be nice to see a comparison test.


----------



## Nightwing95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> H220X will be at NCIX in Mississauga Ont sometime towards the end of Aug. Any place where I could get one now.Also,do you think it will out shine, cool better than the H220.It be nice to see a comparison test.


Just buy it online from the swiftech site, use the code "OCN" to lower the price to $125.99, then just use the cheapest "Priority Mail" option to get your cooler delivered. Took mine 6 days to come in, it will probably cost a bit more than if you bought it from NCIX. Duty/taxes are included with the shipping cost btw.

Depends how bad you want it, is a month's wait worth the $30 or so dollars you save?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwing95*
> 
> Sorry for the low quality pics.
> 
> The case is a Corsair 450D, I removed the top drive bay to make more room for the H220-X.


Did you have to remove the 5.25 drive bays for it to fit in the 450D? I'm asking because I'm planning to build a new pc and the 450D, the 220x, and an ODD are on my parts list.

[Although maybe i should ditch the internal optical drive and get an external one, then I could plug it into a the laptop or the desktop?]


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It not worth for Canada to buy even with the code. Cheapest shipping is $43US. Total is $170 exchange rate would bring it up to almost $200 CAD. Ncix is local and can be picked up or get free shipping.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Got mine and installed it a few hours ago. It was kind of a pain to install in the Define R4, but I figured out a way. So far so good. Replaced the fans with Corsair sp120's. Only thing I don't like is the mounting plate. The Apooge block has like adjustable mounts and it gets tedious in a tight space. I see some improvement in temps for sure already


----------



## Nightwing95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Did you have to remove the 5.25 drive bays for it to fit in the 450D? I'm asking because I'm planning to build a new pc and the 450D, the 220x, and an ODD are on my parts list.
> 
> [Although maybe I should ditch the internal optical drive and get an external one, then I could plug it into a the laptop or the desktop?]


Yeah, the drive bays had to be removed because they interfered with the tubing.

Since the 450D is 360mm rad compatible up top, you could mount it directly over the motherboard and keep the drive bays, however everything will be a lot "tighter" that way. I haven't personally tried that configuration, but I do believe the tubing would most likely interfere with the graphics card.

I personally have no use for any optical drive so cutting out the drive bay was a no brainer for me, it really depends on how much you will need to use it. If in doubt, and you think you will need to use an optical drive frequently, it would probably be less of a hassle to get a larger case like the 750D.


----------



## dgof09

h


----------



## dgof09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> H220X will be at NCIX in Mississauga Ont sometime towards the end of Aug. Any place where I could get one now.Also,do you think it will out shine, cool better than the H220.It be nice to see a comparison test.


h220-x ranges from 2-3 degrees better at load than the h220 according to this review from overclock.com that compares the h220-x to the h220, liqtech 240 hp, and a custom loop with 360 rad/ mcp35x pump http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit-review 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> H220X will be at NCIX in Mississauga Ont sometime towards the end of Aug. Any place where I could get one now.Also,do you think it will out shine, cool better than the H220.It be nice to see a comparison test.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwing95*
> 
> Yeah, the drive bays had to be removed because they interfered with the tubing.
> 
> Since the 450D is 360mm rad compatible up top, you could mount it directly over the motherboard and keep the drive bays, however everything will be a lot "tighter" that way. I haven't personally tried that configuration, but I do believe the tubing would most likely interfere with the graphics card.
> 
> I personally have no use for any optical drive so cutting out the drive bay was a no brainer for me, it really depends on how much you will need to use it. If in doubt, and you think you will need to use an optical drive frequently, it would probably be less of a hassle to get a larger case like the 750D.


Thnx for responsind. I don't like the really big cases so much. Sounds like it can work (the rad can be screwed in up top) but it will be a bit of a challenge to wrangle the tubing around. I think I can deal with that.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It not worth for Canada to buy even with the code. Cheapest shipping is $43US. Total is $170 exchange rate would bring it up to almost $200 CAD. Ncix is local and can be picked up or get free shipping.


That's a little off, it would be $183 CAD with the code to be exact. Buying it locally in Canada you would get charged tax not to mention it costs like $20 more, so it would come up to $175 CAD. It's an $8 difference, and you don't have to wait a month to purchase it.

I recall like one time where USPS/Canada post charged me for import tax in my entire life, so I omitted it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> That's a little off, it would be $183 CAD with the code to be exact. Buying it locally in Canada you would get charged tax not to mention it costs like $20 more, so it would come up to $175 CAD. It's an $8 difference, and you don't have to wait a month to purchase it.
> 
> I recall like one time where USPS/Canada post charged me for import tax in my entire life, so I omitted it.


It is not off, in my cart it shows $125.95US + $43.55 Shipping US. In CAD it is $190 that is after exchange rate via PayPal. That is where it starts to get to the custom loop price. That makes it a little hard to pay that much.
Problem is NCIX price for pre-order is always higher. Once released the price drops. Happens all the time.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is not off, in my cart it shows $125.95US + $43.55 Shipping US. In CAD it is $190 that is after exchange rate via PayPal. That is where it starts to get to the custom loop price. That makes it a little hard to pay that much.
> Problem is NCIX price for pre-order is always higher. Once released the price drops. Happens all the time.


Eh, I was going off Google. Paypal's exchange rates are always way off, it's why I'd rather pay with a credit card. Anyway, I doubt the price would drop more than $10. If it means paying $18 more to not wait a month (and having it shipped to my front door), than if I did to just buy it locally, why not?


----------



## NIK1

My H220 fans are setup push/pull.Can the H220x be done this way.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H220 fans are setup push/pull.Can the H220x be done this way.


You can only set it up as semi push pull (with 3 fans). You can mount 2 fans on one side and just one fan on the other.

Hope that helps.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H220 fans are setup push/pull.Can the H220x be done this way.


I do not believe so. The reservoir / pump that hang off the bottom of the radiator prevent this.


----------



## WhiteRice

Few more pictures of my recent swap H220 to H220-X. Case is a Corsair 350D.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwing95*
> 
> Just buy it online from the swiftech site, use the code "OCN" to lower the price to $125.99, then just use the cheapest "Priority Mail" option to get your cooler delivered. Took mine 6 days to come in, it will probably cost a bit more than if you bought it from NCIX. Duty/taxes are included with the shipping cost btw.
> 
> Depends how bad you want it, is a month's wait worth the $30 or so dollars you save?


So you wanna tell me, if I buy and let it ship to Italy (shipping is 60-80$), the taxes are included and I wouldn't have to pay anything afterwards when I recive the package?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is not off, in my cart it shows $125.95US + $43.55 Shipping US. In CAD it is $190 that is after exchange rate via PayPal. That is where it starts to get to the *custom loop price*. That makes it a little hard to pay that much.
> Problem is NCIX price for pre-order is always higher. Once released the price drops. Happens all the time.


This performs as good as a custom loop


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Few more pictures of my recent swap H220 to H220-X. Case is a Corsair 350D.


What did you plug the fans into, and the pump? The 8-1 splitter, or the cpu_fan / cpu_opt headers?

Jason


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> So you wanna tell me, if I buy and let it ship to Italy (shipping is 60-80$), the taxes are included and I wouldn't have to pay anything afterwards when I recive the package?


Talking about US/Canada. Not sure what your country has for duty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> This performs as good as a custom loop


The performance is not what was mentioned. Ordering from to US to Canada was discussed. For the price it is XSPC AX360 kit for $200 or AX240 for $180 instead.
That is the problem, it is just value that I would get.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Few more pictures of my recent swap H220 to H220-X. Case is a Corsair 350D.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build looks clean. Why not go with the red color instead of blue. Build has all red.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The performance is not what was mentioned. Ordering from to US to Canada was discussed. For the price it is XSPC AX360 kit for $200 or AX240 for $180 instead.
> That is the problem, it is just value that I would get.


Same thing. Price per performance. Sounds like you are assuming those kits are better.


----------



## sdmf74

wonders what swiftech has in store for new pump


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Same thing. Price per performance. Sounds like you are assuming those kits are better.


Did I ever say that. Discussing the US cost to Canada, not performance.
Rather wait for stock to come into Canada and not pay $20-30 more.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> What did you plug the fans into, and the pump? The 8-1 splitter, or the cpu_fan / cpu_opt headers?
> 
> Jason


The pump is plugged into sata power; it has it's own cable. The fans are running off a splitter from my CPU Fan header. Check your motherboard manual for your fan header output. Swiftech recommends running everything off the splitter.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Few more pictures of my recent swap H220 to H220-X. Case is a Corsair 350D.


Nice build, very tidy.

For those wondering about clearance of the H220-X over memory with tall heatsinks, installed Corsair Dom Platinum with the light bar on top (probably the biggest memory I've seen) and still had plenty of room to the pump / rad on a ROG VII Hero. No issue at all.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> The pump is plugged into sata power; it has it's own cable. The fans are running off a splitter from my CPU Fan header. Check your motherboard manual for your fan header output. Swiftech recommends running everything off the splitter.


So i can plug in the sata power for the pump into a sata, and if i have 2 cpu fan headers, just plug in one fan to each header. But then the pump runs at 100% all the time...


----------



## Snyderman34

If only there was an upgrade program







Ah well, my H220 is still going strong! Wouldn't mind switching the pump out though, if I expand later.


----------



## mcnumpty23

far as i remember you plug the pump to the red connector on the pwm splitter,,your fans to the other connectors on the pwm splitter then the pwm splitter to the cpu header

thats assuming its same set up as h320

though it is a year since i connected mine but think thats what i did,,,lol

got to top it up as its making a nasty noise so will double check


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> So i can plug in the sata power for the pump into a sata, and if i have 2 cpu fan headers, just plug in one fan to each header. But then the pump runs at 100% all the time...


far as i remember you plug the pump to the red connector on the pwm splitter,,your fans to the other connectors on the pwm splitter then the pwm splitter to the cpu header

thats assuming its same set up as h320

though it is a year since i connected mine but think thats what i did,,,lol

got to top it up as its making a nasty noise so will double check


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wonders what swiftech has in store for new pump


Whistles everywhere! Maybe one will catch Bryan's or Gabe's ears.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> If only there was an upgrade program
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah well, my H220 is still going strong! Wouldn't mind switching the pump out though, if I expand later.


+1 I would love to be able to get the new pump for my h220 as well. I love the look of the old h220 over the h220X and don't want to spend $130 just for an extra 2-4C. But if I could get the new pump and install it in the h220 pump housing I would definitely consider that!


----------



## kikibgd

Well my pump died again for 3rd time already this is annoying really. Waiting for reply almost 7days...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> +1 I would love to be able to get the new pump for my h220 as well. I love the look of the old h220 over the h220X and don't want to spend $130 just for an extra 2-4C. But if I could get the new pump and install it in the h220 pump housing I would definitely consider that!


The new MCP50X is compatible with the H220 housing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> Well my pump died again for 3rd time already this is annoying really. Waiting for reply almost 7days...


I'm sorry to hear about this. You should hear from Bacata shortly because they are due to get replacement kits very soon.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> So i can plug in the sata power for the pump into a sata, and if i have 2 cpu fan headers, just plug in one fan to each header. But then the pump runs at 100% all the time...


Sorry, forgot to mentions the pump has an additional 3 pin plug. I have it plugged into my CPU_OPT Header.


----------



## kikibgd

Ok patients is needed. Thx for info.


----------



## nassaria

Dear All,

This may be a silly question!

I will be ordering the H220x kit to cool my i7-4960X. Also I have a single GTX Titan Black and would like to cool it also. So I will order the Swiftech KOMODO-NV-LE too.

My question is, what do I need more? Do I need an extra 140mm Rad or I can loop it using the same kit Radiator?

Thanks in advance


----------



## VSG

Depending on how hard you want to push the 4960x, you would like to get another radiator for sure. The Titan Black is volt locked to 1.212V and so I would say get another 140mm as you said but preferable another dual radiator (240 or 280mm) if you have the space.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nassaria*
> 
> Dear All,
> 
> This may be a silly question!
> 
> I will be ordering the H220x kit to cool my i7-4960X. Also I have a single GTX Titan Black and would like to cool it also. So I will order the Swiftech KOMODO-NV-LE too.
> 
> My question is, what do I need more? Do I need an extra 140mm Rad or I can loop it using the same kit Radiator?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Don't forget that you'll also need fittings, and possibly some more tubing and coolant as well. You can use just the radiator included with this kit, but for optimal temperatures you may want to add a second radiator. It will mainly depend on your situation though because not every situation will warrant needing to add a second radiator.


----------



## nassaria

Thank you Geggeg and BramSLi1

I am not a gamer (thought I play occasionally). However, I do intensive video rendering specially with 3d Max, Maya and cad.

I am running the CPU at 4.5 GHZ as I can get it very stable with 1.35 V. I have noticed that when I start the heavy rending at this Hertz (takes about 90-95% of cpu) the cpu temp is about 85C. Currently I have the Noctua NH-U14S with double fans installed. The titan Black temp is also getting as high as 80C during this process

1- If I have to use just the radiator with the kit, how do I route the tubes to the VGA and what fittings do I need?

2- I have the Thermaltake Level 10GT casing, and on the top, there is place for the H220X rad. However, there are four holes for the side (at Rad corner) screws and none for the middle ones. Is this ok in terms of being firm fitting? I.e do I expect some vibration?

Thank you


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The new MCP50X is compatible with the H220 housing.


Any chance on a how-to video? This is definitely something I would consider doing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nassaria*
> 
> Thank you Geggeg and BramSLi1
> 
> I am not a gamer (thought I play occasionally). However, I do intensive video rendering specially with 3d Max, Maya and cad.
> 
> I am running the CPU at 4.5 GHZ as I can get it very stable with 1.35 V. I have noticed that when I start the heavy rending at this Hertz (takes about 90-95% of cpu) the cpu temp is about 85C. Currently I have the Noctua NH-U14S with double fans installed. The titan Black temp is also getting as high as 80C during this process
> 
> 1- If I have to use just the radiator with the kit, how do I route the tubes to the VGA and what fittings do I need?
> 
> 2- I have the Thermaltake Level 10GT casing, and on the top, there is place for the H220X rad. However, there are four holes for the side (at Rad corner) screws and none for the middle ones. Is this ok in terms of being firm fitting? I.e do I expect some vibration?
> 
> Thank you


You'll need to get 3/8 by 5/8 fittings for the GPU and radiator, and just route from your CPU to your back radiator and then to the GPU. From the GPU you'll need to just route it back to the H220-X radiator. This is the cleanest routing for your situation if you're using a rear mounted radiator as well.

That's not the optimal way to mount the radiator and I'd think that you might get some vibrations unless you're able to put something between the case and the fans to insulate it. It should work though.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nassaria*
> 
> Thank you Geggeg and BramSLi1
> 
> I am not a gamer (thought I play occasionally). However, I do intensive video rendering specially with 3d Max, Maya and cad.
> 
> I am running the CPU at 4.5 GHZ as I can get it very stable with 1.35 V. I have noticed that when I start the heavy rending at this Hertz (takes about 90-95% of cpu) the cpu temp is about 85C. Currently I have the Noctua NH-U14S with double fans installed. The titan Black temp is also getting as high as 80C during this process
> 
> 1- If I have to use just the radiator with the kit, how do I route the tubes to the VGA and what fittings do I need?
> 
> 2- I have the Thermaltake Level 10GT casing, and on the top, there is place for the H220X rad. However, there are four holes for the side (at Rad corner) screws and none for the middle ones. Is this ok in terms of being firm fitting? I.e do I expect some vibration?
> 
> Thank you


Ah man, that's a pretty terrible case for watercooling if I can be brutally honest here. Your best bet might be to go with an external rad like the XSPC AX series with a stand. It would help with bleeding and filling also. I don't see where you can put in another radiator in that case other than the spot for the H220-X. Having screws at the side shouldn't be a big deal, at worst there may be some vibration. You can use double sided tape or velcro if it gets too bad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Any chance on a how-to video? This is definitely something I would consider doing.


I could walk you through it. It's really pretty simple. There are just four screws under the plastic top. Once those are removed you just remove the pump from the housing and put the MCP50X in its place. Screw down your four screws and put the plastic top back on.

Just make sure that the washers on the new pump don't fall out when you're doing this. The best way is to hold the pump with the washers up and then place H220 housing on top of it. Turn the whole thing around and then install the screws.


----------



## BenJaminJr

So would I be okay with running just a h220x along with a gpu water block? I would love to not have to buy another radiator right now.


----------



## souldriver

I apologize if it's been mentioned before but I know there was mention of a 140 and 280 version of the 220x kit. I was wondering if these will also be there own kits or just rads that need to be purchased seperate. I ask as I'm planning a build and was looking at the 220x for a quality cooling kit over air, but I think it will be overkill as I'm just cooling the cpu and don't ever do aggressive overclocking, or any type of overclocking at all.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I apologize if it's been mentioned before but I know there was mention of a 140 and 280 version of the 220x kit. I was wondering if these will also be there own kits or just rads that need to be purchased seperate. I ask as I'm planning a build and was looking at the 220x for a quality cooling kit over air, but I think it will be overkill as I'm just cooling the cpu and don't ever do aggressive overclocking, or any type of overclocking at all.
> 
> Thanks


I think this has been mentioned before. However, we are going to come out with an H240-X and possibly also an H140-X kit. We might also sell the radiators separately, but if you're looking for radiators of this size we already have them available. Just not with the pump and reservoirs attached.


----------



## souldriver

I apologize if it's been mentioned before but I know there was mention of a 140 and 280 version of the 220x kit. I was wondering if these will also be there own kits or just rads that need to be purchased seperate. I ask as I'm planning a build and was looking at the 220x for a quality cooling kit over air, but I think it will be overkill as I'm just cooling the cpu and don't ever do aggressive overclocking, or any type of
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think this has been mentioned before. However, we are going to come out with an H240-X and possibly also an H140-X kit. We might also sell the radiators separately, but if you're looking for radiators of this size we already have them available. Just not with the pump and reservoirs attached.


I am new to any type of liquid cooling as my new build will be my first venture into that realm. I was thinking a corsair h90 as the 750d case can fit the 140/280sized fans/rads and I would like to take advantage of that if possible. I was looking into the 220x as many mentioned it was a much more professional kit for only a little bit more scratch. (The rad mounted res also gives a cool liquid cooled look for those that are a little intimidated by a full custom loop but like that style) For me, personally, a h140-x kit would be optimal as a kit takes out the intimidation factor yet allows me to have a higher end solution for my less heat intensive, and more quiet emphasizing needs. I'll say a bigger rad would probably look better in the bigger case but if I could save a little bit of money and have a kit that isn't as excessive for my needs but still gives the quality of the big boys I would be a happy camper.

Thanks for the insite I'll keep am eye out for the upcoming releases


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Few more pictures of my recent swap H220 to H220-X. Case is a Corsair 350D.


I'm a fellow 350D owner. I like your setup. I have an H100i on my CPU and just recently started a 240mm custom loop for my two GTX 770s. It had been suggested that I use an H220X to finish the loop and sell the H100i. Right now CPU temps are pretty good, but I really don't like that the loop isn't "finished" or symmetrical.

Do you push the entire loop with the swiftech H220's pump? Or are you using another pump? Can the pump be bypassed or removed from the rad? I have an EK 2.2 X-Res pump, and it pushes my modest loop, but I doubt it could do the CPU and another rad efficiently. Your setup is very similar to what mine would be so I figured I'd ask. How are your temps? I have a 45mm rad in front, but I added extra SP120 PWM fans on the inside for push/pull. No doubt Id have to remove the optical drive to fit the H220X, but I rarely use it. I do have a 3.5 inch HD in one of the top drive bays (with a mounting bracket) and I wonder if that would still fit.


----------



## M3TAl

There's nothing wrong with running both pumps in series as long as the overall flow doesn't largely exceed the max flow of either pump (and if it does just turn the PWM on the Swiftech down some). You will have plenty of flow and pressure this way. I run a Jingway DP-600 (AKA Phobya DC12-260 or EK-DCP 2.2's big brother) and XSPC X2O 750 in series, works out just fine.


----------



## methebest

Ok i have a few questions relating to the H220-X and expanding it.

I have decided to get a H220-X when i upgrade my FX4130 to a FX8320, was originally going to go air but decided that this way i can expand it later and get some practice in as my next build will have a custom loop. (yay for planning a build 4-5 years in advance >.>)
So i'm wondering what i will need when i expand.(rads and such)
The system will be a FX8320 at 4.5-5(hopefully) ghz and two 290's with minor overclocks in a phantom 410. Also in summer the temps can get as high as 35°C.

Would the H220-X and another 240 rad be enough?


----------



## Mega Man

general rule of thumb is 120 + (componantsx120) ( not including vrm ( mobo ) chipset ram ect )

so yes you should be ok rad wise not great but ok, as 290s put out alotta of heat

tubing and fittings for additional components and also distilled water and biocide ( either iandh deadwater or pt nuke ( blue i personally dont recommend the other ) or silver kill coil ( again i dont recommend )

you can filter the coolant and reuse, i prefer distilled and biocide ( would still need some extra distilled water to top unit off )


----------



## mcnumpty23

OK opened up the fill port its still topped up to the max,,which is good after a year of use

But still making the whirring/vibration sound

Definitely 100% coming from the pump and gets louder the more load the CPU is under

Whats the next step to try?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> OK opened up the fill port its still topped up to the max,,which is good after a year of use
> 
> But still making the whirring/vibration sound
> 
> Definitely 100% coming from the pump and gets louder the more load the CPU is under
> 
> Whats the next step to try?


You may the same issue I had with my H220. Plastizer build up in the pump. Contact bram and he'll assist you with this. I tried everything I could to get the air bubbles away then I had Bram guide me through the dis assembly process and cleaned out the pump real good. I also ran some 1 part distilled white vinegar and 4 part distilled water through the rad to get any plastizer that was in there out. After putting everything back together and running the pump. It took about 10-15 mins until the air bubbles were completely gone. Was running great until my pump decided to die a few months later. Got a replacement though and running great since March.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> You may the same issue I had with my H220. Plastizer build up in the pump. Contact bram and he'll assist you with this. I tried everything I could to get the air bubbles away then I had Bram guide me through the dis assembly process and cleaned out the pump real good. I also ran some 1 part distilled white vinegar and 4 part distilled water through the rad to get any plastizer that was in there out. After putting everything back together and running the pump. It took about 10-15 mins until the air bubbles were completely gone. Was running great until my pump decided to die a few months later. Got a replacement though and running great since March.


Is pump disassembly pretty straight forward? As will have limited internet access once I remove the h320


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *methebest*
> 
> Ok i have a few questions relating to the H220-X and expanding it.
> 
> I have decided to get a H220-X when i upgrade my FX4130 to a FX8320, was originally going to go air but decided that this way i can expand it later and get some practice in as my next build will have a custom loop. (yay for planning a build 4-5 years in advance >.>)
> So i'm wondering what i will need when i expand.(rads and such)
> The system will be a FX8320 at 4.5-5(hopefully) ghz and two 290's with minor overclocks in a phantom 410. Also in summer the temps can get as high as 35°C.
> 
> Would the H220-X and another 240 rad be enough?


Depends on what you want the water cooling to do for you. That's a lot of heat to move, chances of doing it quietly in that setup aren't great. Do some research and plan a loop around what you want it to do (ie quiet, massive overclock headroom etc), the stickies in the Liquid Cooling forum here are a great place to start. A little research now will help get what you want out of it.

With the H220-X, its designed to be a highly efficient cpu cooler that can handle most CPU's heat dissipation needs quietly because swiftech has done the research for us. It is still watercooling though, and to expand it there is a lot more to it than just throwing blocks and radiators at a loop and hoping things work out. When we start planning to expand the loops we need to understand what the heat dissipation requirements will be and what we want it to do. If you want a silent system that can handle gaming and other intensive tasks you need to design a loop with a delta of 5C or so (how much the water temp rises in the loop under load). If you want to heavily overclock and don't care about noise a 10C delta may be ok or it may not. It may be better to run two loops, on for CPU and one for GPU to achieve what you want the system to do. Do you use low fin count rads or high fin count rads? All these things have to be decided before we start expanding the loop. For just CPU cooling its easy to recommend the H220-X because Swiftech has designed the loop to do exactly what it says on the product page, high efficiency with low noise. To start expanding on it, well then we're heading down the rabbit hole...

I don't mean to be preachy but the worst thing is to spend a lot of time and money on something that doesn't do what you want it to. I'm new on this forum but am on several others and have seen a lot of people that throw parts at a loop and come back saying they are unhappy with it. Then they have to spend more time and money to fix it when some research into loops would have saved them a lot of frustration. Water cooling loops are not the be-all end-all saviors to pc cooling, they do what they are designed to do and without knowing what we want the loop to accomplish the chances of being happy with it are slim.

Getting off my soapbox now and heading over to re-read the water cooling stickies again.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Is pump disassembly pretty straight forward? As will have limited internet access once I remove the h320


Very straight forward, pop off the swiftech plastic cap on the top of the pump (May take a little prying since it's glued on). They're 4 screws underneath that. The pump should come apart pretty easily then. When taking the pump apart you'll see two little plastic washers. One the top part of the shaft where the propeller sits, and one on the bottom part. DON'T LOSE THOSE! Very important! If I remember correctly they're 2 o-rings. One small and one larger o-ring. The smaller one sits around the shaft, and the larger around the propeller. I would also remove the copper block as well (They're eight screws that need to be removed, there's also a rubber gasket underneath the copper block). That's where the majority of the plastizer was in my pump. There's a video somewhere in this thread of the dis assembly process but it's way far back in the thread. A swiftech employee needs to guide you through the process so your warranty isn't void. Hope this helps


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Very straight forward, pop off the swiftech plastic cap on the top of the pump (May take a little prying since it's glued on). They're 4 screws underneath that. The pump should come apart pretty easily then. When taking the pump apart you'll see two little plastic washers. One the top part of the shaft where the propeller sits, and one on the bottom part. DON'T LOSE THOSE! Very important! If I remember correctly they're 2 o-rings. One small and one larger o-ring. The smaller one sits around the shaft, and the larger around the propeller. I would also remove the copper block as well (They're eight screws that need to be removed, there's also a rubber gasket underneath the copper block). That's where the majority of the plastizer was in my pump. There's a video somewhere in this thread of the dis assembly process but it's way far back in the thread. A swiftech employee needs to guide you through the process so your warranty isn't void. Hope this helps


Thanks,,gave you plus rep

Found a video showing disassembly,,pretty easy,,won't have internet except on my phone so not sure how they could guide me through it,but it looks pretty simple,,guess you have to glue the top back on when reassembling it?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Thanks,,gave you plus rep
> 
> Found a video showing disassembly,,pretty easy,,won't have internet except on my phone so not sure how they could guide me through it,but it looks pretty simple,,guess you have to glue the top back on when reassembling it?


I actually called Bram on my cellphone when I was doing it. I didn't have to glue mine back on. They're two tabs that keep the top centered so it ended up staying on. A little more glue won't hurt though.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I actually called Bram on my cellphone when I was doing it. I didn't have to glue mine back on. They're two tabs that keep the top centered so it ended up staying on. A little more glue won't hurt though.


Lol,,don't think I want to be calling the USA on my mobile,,hopefully I have some thermal paste somewhere,,the video I found on YouTube is from some one who's been

guided by Bryan to do it

Looks like the hardest part will actually be removing my rad and refitting it as its doesn't naturally fit my case so its kind of suspended by cable ties,,actually works pretty well like

that but its a pain to fit it getting all the cable ties through the right holes


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Lol,,don't think I want to be calling the USA on my mobile,,hopefully I have some thermal paste somewhere,,the video I found on YouTube is from some one who's been
> 
> guided by Bryan to do it
> 
> Looks like the hardest part will actually be removing my rad and refitting it as its doesn't naturally fit my case so its kind of suspended by cable ties,,actually works pretty well like
> 
> that but its a pain to fit it getting all the cable ties through the right holes


lol, yeah that may not be a good idea. I'm sure Bryan will work something out with you.


----------



## parry1994

how high is the H220-X with fans installed? (the res not incl., just rad + fan) because I'm not use if I could mount another 140mm rad on the back.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with running both pumps in series as long as the overall flow doesn't largely exceed the max flow of either pump (and if it does just turn the PWM on the Swiftech down some). You will have plenty of flow and pressure this way. I run a Jingway DP-600 (AKA Phobya DC12-260 or EK-DCP 2.2's big brother) and XSPC X2O 750 in series, works out just fine.


Thanks for that! That was basically what I was asking, but I beat around the bush a bit. Good of you to realize what I was thinking. The EK 2.2 is being run on a SATA to fan splitter (not molex) so it is always at full speed. That is good to know that the Swiftech pump is PWM and can be dialed down though. I think this is a great way to finish my loop...


----------



## Gabkicks

Just 1 more day >_<. I got up to 98c with stock cooling playing bf4


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> how high is the H220-X with fans installed? (the res not incl., just rad + fan) because I'm not use if I could mount another 140mm rad on the back.
> Thanks in advance!


54mm. So youcells need 55mm clearance.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> 54mm. So youcells need 55mm clearance.


Thanks, but what does "youcells" mean?


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> Thanks, but what does "youcells" mean?


That's just how he talks, his name is "Atombased Cellsymbioticorganism" on the swiftech FB page. he's either playing a bit or microorganisms have become sentient.


----------



## parry1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> That's just how he talks, his name is "Atombased Cellsymbioticorganism" on the swiftech FB page. he's either playing a bit or microorganisms have become sentient.


This is creaping me out haha :L


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Hey there guys! I'd need a bit of help from you all, I currently have H105 but I don't seem to like it that much, so now I'm considering if I should get H220X? if anybody had previous experience with either H105/H110 so what do you guys think is it better than H220X? how does H220X compare with 105? as we know H220 had pump quality issues and some people had failed it, do you guys think this X's pump has better quality and if it doesn't feel like the same old one? thanks


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parry1994*
> 
> This is creaping me out haha :L


He is actually a Swiftech employee from I see, inb4conspiracytheory.


----------



## kevindd992002

Since the H220-X will be a very tight fit with the HAF922 case, would it be possible top use shorter motherboard standoffs so that I can make the board "closer to the metal case" which will eventually free up some space so that the rad won't be touching the CPU power connector on my board? Or are all standoffs pretty much the same height?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Since the H220-X will be a very tight fit with the HAF922 case, would it be possible top use shorter motherboard standoffs so that I can make the board "closer to the metal case" which will eventually free up some space so that the rad won't be touching the CPU power connector on my board? Or are all standoffs pretty much the same height?


standoff's are decided by the case and not the motherboard. if you remove the standoffs, the I/O shield would be off placed compared to the motherboard.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> He is actually a Swiftech employee from I see, inb4conspiracytheory.


Not that I'm aware of.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> standoff's are decided by the case and not the motherboard. if you remove the standoffs, the I/O shield would be off placed compared to the motherboard.


Yeah, but I need aroun 4-5mm less of a height from them. Would that be enough to off-place the I/O shield?


----------



## Mega Man

you will also run the HIGH risk of shorting out your mobo and risking damaging anything/everything attached to said mobo


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you will also run the HIGH risk of shorting out your mobo and risking damaging anything/everything attached to said mobo


Oh ok, makes sense. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, but I need aroun 4-5mm less of a height from them. Would that be enough to off-place the I/O shield?


Yes, it would be unless you do some mods to the I/O Panel...


----------



## Jawswing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, but I need aroun 4-5mm less of a height from them. Would that be enough to off-place the I/O shield?


It wouldn't fit.
All your connections would be 5mm out.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

wao guys lol nobody even bothered to take a minute and answer my question?

I asked if anybody currently/previously owns/owned Corsair H105/H110 how do you guys think this H220X compares to H105? do you think it's a better buy and presumably will give better temps compared to H105? also as some of you may also know H220 had obvious pump failure issues, do you people think this won't be the case with H220X? as in if they implemented better pump t his time?

Thanks


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> wao guys lol nobody even bothered to take a minute and answer my question?
> 
> I asked if anybody currently/previously owns/owned Corsair H105/H110 how do you guys think this H220X compares to H105? do you think it's a better buy and presumably will give better temps compared to H105? also as some of you may also know H220 had obvious pump failure issues, do you people think this won't be the case with H220X? as in if they implemented better pump t his time?
> 
> Thanks


We cant be sure exactly how much the H105 will be better/worse than the H220X on the CPU alone but if you are going to expand in the future then the H220X is the obvious winner.

As for the pump failures we cannot tell yet since they just released it, I have received the H220X pump as a replacement and I have noticed a few changes on the impeller/pump design. So far the noise level on the pump is lower than the H220 and I hope they have permanently fixed the issue.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Bump

I am going to upgrade my H100i to an H220x in the near future so I can add it to my custom SLI GPU loop. So if you want expandability then this is a good choice. I however have no experience with it yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> wao guys lol nobody even bothered to take a minute and answer my question?
> 
> I asked if anybody currently/previously owns/owned Corsair H105/H110 how do you guys think this H220X compares to H105? do you think it's a better buy and presumably will give better temps compared to H105? also as some of you may also know H220 had obvious pump failure issues, do you people think this won't be the case with H220X? as in if they implemented better pump t his time?
> 
> Thanks


if none of us ever owned that patent trolls ( not corsair but oem of them ) junk how would we be able to tell you ?

ill take swiftechs originality > patent trolling


----------



## dgof09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> wao guys lol nobody even bothered to take a minute and answer my question?
> 
> I asked if anybody currently/previously owns/owned Corsair H105/H110 how do you guys think this H220X compares to H105? do you think it's a better buy and presumably will give better temps compared to H105? also as some of you may also know H220 had obvious pump failure issues, do you people think this won't be the case with H220X? as in if they implemented better pump t his time?
> 
> Thanks


read chispy review on the h220x he compares the h220-x to the H105 a little. mainly he shows at i7 4790k at 4.8 ghz 1.35 volts
h220x idle 29-31 load between 72- 75
h105 idle around 33-34 load 80- 82
also states h220-x is able to get the processor to 4.9 ghz at 1.405 volts with load high temp of 79 and when he did the same on the h105 temps rose upwards of 90 and quickly caused BSOD
review is at http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?289340-Swiftech-H220-X-Review-Part-1-of-2 with videos of him performing the stress test on each


----------



## ciarlatano

Review up at HTL:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review





Along with the "my H100i with Noctua fans...." trolls on the YouTube video.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgof09*
> 
> read chispy review on the h220x he compares the h220-x to the H105 a little. mainly he shows at i7 4790k at 4.8 ghz 1.35 volts
> h220x idle 29-31 load between 72- 75
> h105 idle around 33-34 load 80- 82
> also states h220-x is able to get the processor to 4.9 ghz at 1.405 volts with load high temp of 79 and when he did the same on the h105 temps rose upwards of 90 and quickly caused BSOD
> review is at http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?289340-Swiftech-H220-X-Review-Part-1-of-2 with videos of him performing the stress test on each


nice! thanks a lot mate that's exactly what I was looking for to compare with, very informative response and nice reference, now I know for sure I'm getting H220X







thanks for that

+1


----------



## nassaria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll need to get 3/8 by 5/8 fittings for the GPU and radiator, and just route from your CPU to your back radiator and then to the GPU. From the GPU you'll need to just route it back to the H220-X radiator. This is the cleanest routing for your situation if you're using a rear mounted radiator as well.
> 
> That's not the optimal way to mount the radiator and I'd think that you might get some vibrations unless you're able to put something between the case and the fans to insulate it. It should work though.


Thank you for the answer,

I have decided to go for the H220x with extra 140 rad for the titan black cooling (both will be run by the h220x pump). I have also elected to go with Swiftech for all the accessories to avoid any possible or potential issues. Below are the bill of material, please let me know if I have missed anything:

A) Swiftech H220x kit

B) For cooling Titan Black:
1- Swiftech (KOMODO-NV-LE)
2- Swiftech TrueFlex Tubing (5/8 X 3/8)
3- Swiftech 140 Rad (MCR140-QP) + 140 Fan max 1200 RPM
4- Hydrox Coolant (how many bottles do I need?)
5- For fittings: qty 4, G1/4 Berb fittings + clamps OR lok seal compression (which one do you recommend for firm fitting and to avoid any potential leak)

C) Routing: H220x --- CPU --- 140 mm Rad --- Titan Black ---- H220x

Appreciating your valuable feedback.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nassaria*
> 
> Thank you for the answer,
> 
> I have decided to go for the H220x with extra 140 rad for the titan black cooling (both will be run by the h220x pump). I have also elected to go with Swiftech for all the accessories to avoid any possible or potential issues. Below are the bill of material, please let me know if I have missed anything:
> 
> A) Swiftech H220x kit
> 
> B) For cooling Titan Black:
> 1- Swiftech (KOMODO-NV-LE)
> 2- Swiftech TrueFlex Tubing (5/8 X 3/8)
> 3- Swiftech 140 Rad (MCR140-QP) + 140 Fan max 1200 RPM
> 4- Hydrox Coolant (how many bottles do I need?)
> 5- For fittings: qty 4, G1/4 Berb fittings + clamps OR lok seal compression (which one do you recommend for firm fitting and to avoid any potential leak)
> 
> C) Routing: H220x --- CPU --- 140 mm Rad --- Titan Black ---- H220x
> 
> Appreciating your valuable feedback.


2 bottles of coolant should be enough. You can always top off with distilled water from your supermarket.

I'm a clamp and barb guy, but you have to know what you're doing to make sure they're effective. Snug up the clamp against the barb head, not the base. Compression fittings are pretty much fool proof.

Extra considerations:

You may want to plan a fill port.

Also don't forget a funnel small enough to fit into the fill port. I use a medical squeeze bottle.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Awesome!

Swiftech claims that the H220-X is easy to add other components onto later. Plus it looks great. But what is the noise level? I have a cooler master h60 and that thing is loud. Its louder than my GPU when I crank the fans up to 100%. I want a quieter liquid cool setup and I am about to build a custom loop but maybe the Swiftech H220-X is a good start. I can add onto it later

Owners of the H220-X, thoughts on noise levels? And expandability??


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> Swiftech claims that the H220-X is easy to add other components onto later. Plus it looks great. But what is the noise level? I have a cooler master h60 and that thing is loud. Its louder than my GPU when I crank the fans up to 100%. I want a quieter liquid cool setup and I am about to build a custom loop but maybe the Swiftech H220-X is a good start. I can add onto it later
> 
> Owners of the H220-X, thoughts on noise levels? And expandability??


Our Helix fans are fairly silent at their lowest setting and they don't get that loud at all at their highest setting either. The pump does produce some noise at full-speed, but the fans drown it out fairly well.

One thing that I want to mention about expansion:

I've already expanded one of these kits for a client build a couple of weeks ago. There is a bleed screw in the reservoir and it really helps to have this screw open when filling the loop. These screws have to be made out of a fairly soft material otherwise they'll damage the acrylic and cause it to leak. Due to this the screws can break apart if you aren't careful. I didn't have this issue, but a couple of customers have already. Just keep this in mind and treat this screw very delicately. I found that this kit was easier to expand and set up than a custom loop simply because everything is compact and the pump bleeds very easily and quickly.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Awesome!
> 
> Swiftech claims that the H220-X is easy to add other components onto later. Plus it looks great. But what is the noise level? I have a cooler master h60 and that thing is loud. Its louder than my GPU when I crank the fans up to 100%. I want a quieter liquid cool setup and I am about to build a custom loop but maybe the Swiftech H220-X is a good start. I can add onto it later
> 
> Owners of the H220-X, thoughts on noise levels? And expandability??


Im not using the stock fans...just change the fans if you think they are too loud. The pump itself is quiet


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Im not using the stock fans...just change the fans if you think they are too loud. The pump itself is quiet


Thanks! You know, I was going to swap the fans out on my h60 and a few people told me not to do that because they might not provide the correct amount of airflow intended for the setup. So I just left it because I knew I would be replacing it asap.

I just called Swiftech because the unit is out of stock, but luckily they said to check back Tuesday. I think Im just going to order it. Its going to be a lot better than my h60 anyway and Ive been wanting to replace that since the day I put my rig together. Even if I have to replace the fans, it will still be a much better setup than what I have.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Our Helix fans are fairly silent at their lowest setting and they don't get that loud at all at their highest setting either. The pump does produce some noise at full-speed, but the fans drown it out fairly well.
> 
> One thing that I want to mention about expansion:
> 
> I've already expanded one of these kits for a client build a couple of weeks ago. There is a bleed screw in the reservoir and it really helps to have this screw open when filling the loop. These screws have to be made out of a fairly soft material otherwise they'll damage the acrylic and cause it to leak. Due to this the screws can break apart if you aren't careful. I didn't have this issue, but a couple of customers have already. Just keep this in mind and treat this screw very delicately. I found that this kit was easier to expand and set up than a custom loop simply because everything is compact and the pump bleeds very easily and quickly.


Thanks, I will keep the delicate bleed screw in mind. I hope these come in on Tuesday, or some time this week coming up.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Review up at HTL:
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along with the "my H100i with Noctua fans...." trolls on the YouTube video.


That's an excellent video review showing nice details about the kit. The reviewer is so pleased with everything about it too... its all good... dislikes none nada nothing


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> There is a bleed screw in the reservoir and it really helps to have this screw open when filling the loop. These screws have to be made out of a fairly soft material otherwise they'll damage the acrylic and cause it to leak. Due to this the screws can break apart if you aren't careful. I didn't have this issue, but a couple of customers have already. Just keep this in mind and treat this screw very delicately. I found that this kit was easier to expand and set up than a custom loop simply because everything is compact and the pump bleeds very easily and quickly.


I CONCUR WITH BRYAN - THIS BLEED SCREW IS TOO FRAGILE FOR THE NEOPHYTE USER (side note: we have already assembled several hundreds at our factory, and I am not getting reports of any breaking screws in assembly...) - WE MADE IT OUT OF POM FOR THE INITIAL LAUNCH BECAUSE THIS AIR BLEEDING FEATURE WAS ADDED LATE AT MY REQUEST - INCIDENTALLY, WE HAVE ALSO OBSERVED THAT SOME KITS (2 OR 3 SO FAR, OUT OF THE FIRST 200) MAY HAVE HAD SOME ACRYLIC SHAVINGS FLOATING IN THE COOLANT THAT WE DIDN'T CATCH AT QC - AGAIN THIS IS FOR THE SAME REASON: ADDING THIS PARTICULAR BLEEDING FEATURE LATE IN THE GAME . THE SHAVING COME FROM TAPING THE BLEED-SCREW HOLE. IF YOU DO SEE ONE, THEN JUST CONTACT US, AND WE'LL EITHER REPLACE YOUR KIT, OR WE WILL SEND YOU COOLANT SO YOU CAN EMPTY IT AND REFILL IT AT YOUR CHOICE - THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN ON THE NEXT PRODUCTION BATCH SINCE WE HAVE ALERTED OUR PRODUCTION CREW.

BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
*G E N T L E* LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY. final note: of course if you break one just let us know, and we'll send you replacement immediately.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
> *G E N T L E* LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY.


Will the updated "INJECTION MOLDED NYLON" part be available to replace the screws on current kits or will this process change the way the kit is made?


----------



## Greenback

I question about the pump on the H220-x is it possible to remove the pump and have it separate from the rad res?


----------



## slikk11

I have the RIVE mobo in the Corsair Air 540. I have the H220 installed at the top of the case right now but I need to know if the H220X will fit? Thanks all.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slikk11*
> 
> I have the RIVE mobo in the Corsair Air 540. I have the H220 installed at the top of the case right now but I need to know if the H220X will fit? Thanks all.


Yes, it most certainly will. Our engineer here has an H220X sitting in the top of his 540 without an issue.


----------



## slikk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it most certainly will. Our engineer here has an H220X sitting in the top of his 540 without an issue.


Thank you very much. Now all I have to do is wait for the H220X release in Canada. NCIX says the end of August.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> I question about the pump on the H220-x is it possible to remove the pump and have it separate from the rad res?


No, this isn't possible. The pump and radiator seal each other.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, this isn't possible. The pump and radiator seal each other.


thanks Bram was wondering. will be looking at the H220-x to go in a MATX build I want to do in a phanteks enthoo evolve. wanting a smaller system


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> I question about the pump on the H220-x is it possible to remove the pump and have it separate from the rad res?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, this isn't possible. The pump and radiator seal each other.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenback*
> 
> thanks Bram was wondering. will be looking at the H220-x to go in a MATX build I want to do in a phanteks enthoo evolve. wanting a smaller system


With modding, anything is possible







of course you void your warranty then


----------



## Gabkicks

I installed h220x, and now PC won't turn on. I'm wondering what I did wrong. I used paperclip to test power supply and it started spinning. GPU led lights up, but not motherboard bios LED.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> I installed h220x, and now PC won't turn on. I'm wondering what I did wrong. I used paperclip to test power supply and it started spinning. GPU led lights up, but not motherboard bios LED.


Are you sure that when you installed it that there wasn't anything touching the motherboard? Also check your power connections because it's likely that something is just loose.


----------



## Gabkicks

I unplugged psu


----------



## Greenback

Check you haven't knocked anything loose like a memory stick or gfx card


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Been using my H220 with the replacement pump for 2 months (or so) now. Paired with 2 AVC DA12025B12L pwm fans this thing is awesome. I certainly hope this pump holds up for many more years to come







And of course with the option of upgrading the pump using the same pump housing.... I'm happy


----------



## LOKI23NY

Got my H220-X today! Don't have time to install today and I have a few other things planned with my case before I install. Decided to share a few unboxing photos. I'm really impressed with the build quality and it should fit perfectly in my 600T. I do have some particles floating around in the reservoir, but overall totally impressed with what I see.
Been following the news about this since it was first announced and happy to have it in my hands finally!!


----------



## VSG

With so many commenting on the "particles" in the fluid, maybe I should consider making a giveaway for my 4 bottles of Hydrx concentrate. That should be plenty for a H220-x.


----------



## M3TAl

geggeg, I swear you have like a mini-store inventory of watercooling supplies. Do your windows have bars on them?


----------



## VSG

lol you should see the room I am working in, so many parts everywhere. The GF has been astoundingly patient even when I had to move the rads downstairs for cleaning and pump testing.

Speaking of which, where in Houston are you located?


----------



## M3TAl

Way, way out west. Almost Katy.

Oh and can't wait to get an MCP50X. Seriously thinking about going with an unorthodox setup for pump/res (really isn't room for it anywhere else except directly in 5.25" bay). Might attach a tube res to my external rad and the pump direct to the res. Is it a concern to have the pump intake directly attached to the res outlet? Is an extension preferred to add a little more space between the pump inlet and res outlet? The res has one of those anti-cyclone
adapters on the outlet.

Bram what do you think the noise would be like on an MCP50X in the 2000-3000 RPM range in "open air" (outside the case)?


----------



## VSG

Companies make aftermarket parts to hook up reservoirs directly to pumps without any fittings, you will be just fine. Best thing about the mcp50x is PWM control so you can lower speeds just enough to suck water through but allowing air to escape from the top of the res.

If things go well, I should be able to tell you exactly how loud the mcp50x is in open air compared to the mcp35x


----------



## M3TAl

I was thinking just a G1/4 male to male adapter (already have one and rotary at that). I'd prefer to leave Swiftech's stock pump top on.


----------



## VSG

I have done that multiple times with no problem. I sometimes put in a valve in between if using a big res so I won't have to drain out the reservoir if draining the loop. You will be just fine!


----------



## Gabkicks

Okay everything seems to be running fine now







Now i just need to find a program to play around with fan speeds/profiles. after a few minutes of running, the pump/radiator fans are pretty much inaudible compared to the rest of everything around it, even under heavy load.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's an excellent video review showing nice details about the kit. The reviewer is so pleased with everything about it too... its all good... dislikes none nada nothing


Good Review but HTL got the tubing size wrong, I believe it is the same as the H220 3/8" x 5/8" if not I am sure I will be corrected.

For anyone interested The new MCP50X Pump unfortunately does not have a removable plug like the pump in the kit. I'm sure there is an upside to this as well but it makes sleeving the sata power cable virtually impossible, Thankfully they are black wires though unlike the MCP35X. I cant believe all products arent made with black wires these days but it seems more and more are as of recent. I will probably just sleeve the PWM cable.


Most will probably need to extend that PWM cable, I assume any 4-pin PWM cable extension will work? If anyone needs one for their new pump and r in the US PM me I bought several extras. If your placing an order already just get it there but if you only need the 4pin ext. and dont wanna pay *full* shipping let me know, prollly save ya few bucks.

I would like to get you guys some results right away but I think I'm gonna hold off on installation for about 5-7 days and I'm hoping Bryan will have some extras for this bad boy by then? Then again I am not sure if swiftech has even begun production on the new ******* for it yet.









I totally forgot to get the heat sink when I placed my order, gonna have to pay shipping again.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's an excellent video review showing nice details about the kit. The reviewer is so pleased with everything about it too... its all good... dislikes none nada nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Review but HTL got the tubing size wrong, I believe it is the same as the H220 3/8" x 5/8" if not I am sure I will be corrected.
> 
> For anyone interested The new MCP50X Pump unfortunately does not have a removable plug like the pump in the kit. I'm sure there is an upside to this as well but it makes sleeving the sata power cable virtually impossible, Thankfully they are black wires though unlike the MCP35X. I cant believe all products arent made with black wires these days but it seems more and more are as of recent. I will probably just sleeve the PWM cable.
> 
> 
> Most will probably need to extend that PWM cable, I assume any 4-pin PWM cable extension will work? If anyone needs one for their new pump and r in the US PM me I bought several extras. If your placing an order already just get it there but if you only need the 4pin ext. and dont wanna pay *full* shipping let me know, prollly save ya few bucks.
> 
> I would like to get you guys some results right away but I think I'm gonna hold off on installation for about 5-7 days and I'm hoping Bryan will have some extras for this bad boy by then? Then again I am not sure if swiftech has even begun production on the new ******* for it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally forgot to get the heat sink when I placed my order, gonna have to pay shipping again.
Click to expand...

what HS.

i would much prefer a 4pin power connector and longer wires, cant believe they didnt make them longer. ill end up modding that ginormous plug off my pumps it r hideous !


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what HS.
> 
> i would much prefer a 4pin power connector and longer wires, cant believe they didnt make them longer. ill end up modding that ginormous plug off my pumps it r hideous !


MCP35X Series Heat Sink (old one) should work fine, same footprint. It is kinda big and ugly though.
I Bet the EK-DDC Heatsink Housing would work with the new pump if you used longer screws, not sure how long I would need though. I assume the pump housing uses M4 screws?
On second thought I think you woud need a compatible EK pump top as well, nevermind.

I prefer sata over molex but like I said I thought they were removable.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Good Review but HTL got the tubing size wrong, I believe it is the same as the H220 3/8" x 5/8" if not I am sure I will be corrected.
> 
> For anyone interested The new MCP50X Pump unfortunately does not have a removable plug like the pump in the kit. I'm sure there is an upside to this as well but it makes sleeving the sata power cable virtually impossible, Thankfully they are black wires though unlike the MCP35X. I cant believe all products arent made with black wires these days but it seems more and more are as of recent. I will probably just sleeve the PWM cable.
> 
> 
> Most will probably need to extend that PWM cable, I assume any 4-pin PWM cable extension will work? If anyone needs one for their new pump and r in the US PM me I bought several extras. If your placing an order already just get it there but if you only need the 4pin ext. and dont wanna pay *full* shipping let me know, prollly save ya few bucks.
> 
> I would like to get you guys some results right away but I think I'm gonna hold off on installation for about 5-7 days and I'm hoping Bryan will have some extras for this bad boy by then? Then again I am not sure if swiftech has even begun production on the new ******* for it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally forgot to get the heat sink when I placed my order, gonna have to pay shipping again.


You don't need a heat sink for the MCP50X. It doesn't run nearly as hot as the 35X does. Also, that extra for the pump is in the final design phase, so it might still be a couple weeks out. I'll keep you posted and I'll try to give the details in full when I get into work on Monday.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't need a heat sink for the MCP50X. It doesn't run nearly as hot as the 35X does. Also, that extra for the pump is in the final design phase, so it might still be a couple weeks out. I'll keep you posted and I'll try to give the details in full when I get into work on Monday.


Awesome good news and even better news. Glad to hear it's that close to being ready (whatever it is) LoL. Thanx for the update.
I think that I can do a much cleaner lookin install then since the pump runs much cooler, I still might try to find a bracket though so I can mount a fan below it, if not I'll just mount a fan near it.

Here is a better shot of the cord Length's, not too bad I guess.

PWM 2pin cable - 17"
Sata Power Cable - 10.5"


----------



## Gabkicks

managed to "fit" it into my antec 1200 case. here is a pic. yes my cable management is terrible atm


----------



## sdmf74

Right on, good Job, Cable Management is the hardest part of building a PC in my opinion. Mines not the greatest either but I'm switching over to a new case (Merlin SM8) in a few days and I'm gonna try to get it right this time. It will be 3rd case swap so I'm starting to get some practice.
Did you have to mount the block sideways or was it just easier that way?

And she's (partially) sleeved, First time sleeving anything so It's not perfect but....


----------



## Kelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I CONCUR WITH BRYAN - THIS BLEED SCREW IS TOO FRAGILE FOR THE NEOPHYTE USER (side note: we have already assembled several hundreds at our factory, and I am not getting reports of any breaking screws in assembly...) - WE MADE IT OUT OF POM FOR THE INITIAL LAUNCH BECAUSE THIS AIR BLEEDING FEATURE WAS ADDED LATE AT MY REQUEST - INCIDENTALLY, WE HAVE ALSO OBSERVED THAT SOME KITS (2 OR 3 SO FAR, OUT OF THE FIRST 200) MAY HAVE HAD SOME ACRYLIC SHAVINGS FLOATING IN THE COOLANT THAT WE DIDN'T CATCH AT QC - AGAIN THIS IS FOR THE SAME REASON: ADDING THIS PARTICULAR BLEEDING FEATURE LATE IN THE GAME . THE SHAVING COME FROM TAPING THE BLEED-SCREW HOLE. IF YOU DO SEE ONE, THEN JUST CONTACT US, AND WE'LL EITHER REPLACE YOUR KIT, OR WE WILL SEND YOU COOLANT SO YOU CAN EMPTY IT AND REFILL IT AT YOUR CHOICE - THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN ON THE NEXT PRODUCTION BATCH SINCE WE HAVE ALERTED OUR PRODUCTION CREW.
> 
> BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
> *G E N T L E* LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY. final note: of course if you break one just let us know, and we'll send you replacement immediately.


I think this kind of feedback from a company is brilliant, and one of the reasons I will be buying the H220-X for my next build.

On that note, have you guys any idea when this will be available in the UK, and what sellers will be stocking it?

Reason I ask is that it appears your international seller list on your website is out of date for at least one reseller. The OCUK (Overclockers UK) water cooling purchaser has categorically stated he doesn't do business with you, but they're still listed as a reseller.

Also, do you have any plans to introduce the clear versions of the Apogee XL with the H220-X? That would make it just about perfect for me!

Apologies if these questions have been answered previously in this humongous thread!


----------



## springs113

I believe that you can purchase from the US and have it shipped to Europe.

My question to anyone out there is..Is there an in/out on the pump? I forgot to look at it and its already installed.


----------



## Gabkicks

Oooh, i am unsure about the pump, but for the waterblock, for the apogee xl, it doesnt matter because of the design. Either port can be in or out.


----------



## Mega Man

in is on the top, out the side
( assuming h220x )

h220 is brams thing ( IE idk )


----------



## PontiacGTX

I have a question before installing the Glacer 240

I have to flush the rad because is known that these kits have a bit of remains of metal
Which is the procedure to unfill the rad?how did you filter your coolant?and how did you flush it?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> Oooh, i am unsure about the pump, but for the waterblock, for the apogee xl, it doesnt matter because of the design. Either port can be in or out.


I know about the apogee block just a little confused about the pump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in is on the top, out the side
> ( assuming h220x )
> 
> h220 is brams thing ( IE idk )


I'm sorry I was referring to the h220x. I have the rad in the front of my 900D, which means the res tank is only visible by removing the side panel that the mobo is secured to. But anyways, if I was to have this thing horizontal in which the res tank, what would the back port be(in or out) you know, the port at the end of the rad?


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> I have to flush the rad because is known that these kits have a bit of remains of metal
> Which is the procedure to unfill the rad?how did you filter your coolant?and how did you flush it?


No, I don't think it is necessary to flush the rad.
If I filter stuff I use an ordinary coffe filter.
Martin's method of flushing has always worked well for me.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> No, I don't think it is necessary to flush the rad.
> If I filter stuff I use an ordinary coffe filter.
> Martin's method of flushing has always worked well for me.


someone else?


----------



## springs113

Can someone help?????
Is there a dedicated inlet/outlet on the h220x?
I can't seem to find any info on this.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Can someone help?????
> Is there a dedicated inlet/outlet on the h220x?
> I can't seem to find any info on this.


Yes there is. Just not on the pump itself


----------



## springs113

The block is multi directional, I just need this info so i can finish my loop/build.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelt*
> 
> I think this kind of feedback from a company is brilliant, and one of the reasons I will be buying the H220-X for my next build.
> 
> On that note, have you guys any idea when this will be available in the UK, and what sellers will be stocking it?
> 
> Reason I ask is that it appears your international seller list on your website is out of date for at least one reseller. The OCUK (Overclockers UK) water cooling purchaser has categorically stated he doesn't do business with you, but they're still listed as a reseller.
> 
> Also, do you have any plans to introduce the clear versions of the Apogee XL with the H220-X? That would make it just about perfect for me!
> 
> Apologies if these questions have been answered previously in this humongous thread!


Keep an eye on specialtech.co.uk they sell swiftech stuff that's where I got my h320

And possibly scan.co.uk


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Can someone help?????
> Is there a dedicated inlet/outlet on the h220x?
> I can't seem to find any info on this.


The out is from the pump and the return is to the radiator.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The out is from the pump and the return is to the radiator.


http://cdn.overclock.net/3/30/900x900px-LL-30acadaa_DSC_0004.jpeg

Which is the outlet/inlet


----------



## LOKI23NY

The hose on the left is coming from the pump and the hose on the right comes out from the rad.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> The hose on the left is coming from the pump and the hose on the right comes out from the rad.


So I take it the one connected to the pump goes to a block or rad and the one on the rad comes connects to another res if need be?


----------



## LOKI23NY

I haven't really looked it over yet to be honest. If you go back a few pages Bram explained to someone how to route things, you can also check out this post from WhiterRice which has some pics of the unit expanded to a GPU and includes a second rad.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10930#post_22639933


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> So I take it the one connected to the pump goes to a block or rad and the one on the rad comes connects to another res if need be?


The direction is flow is away from the pump outlet so in the stock configuration it is: Reservoi->Pump->CPU block->Radiator->Reservoir

If you expand the loop it can be anyway you want other than the Res->Pump->....->Res part


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I haven't really looked it over yet to be honest. If you go back a few pages Bram explained to someone how to route things, you can also check out this post from WhiterRice which has some pics of the unit expanded to a GPU and includes a second rad.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10930#post_22639933


From the looks of things, it seems he's got both ends going to blocks, one to the cpu and one to the gpu...with the lead from the pump going to the gpu block.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Btw guys,which is the best way to apply tim with the CM cpu block?


----------



## springs113

I do the pea dot method in the center and have never had an issues with any excess or high abnormal temps..


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> From the looks of things, it seems he's got both ends going to blocks, one to the cpu and one to the gpu...with the lead from the pump going to the gpu block.


Yes. The loop is:

-> Reservoir out. -> Pump In. -> Pump out. -> VGA In. -> VGA Out. -> Radiator In. -> Radiator out. -> CPU In. -> CPU Out. -> Radiator In. -> Radiator Out. -> Reservoir In. ->



Wecells hope that @WhiteRise™ doesn't mind this picture editing?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Yes. The loop is:
> 
> -> Reservoir out. -> Pump In. -> Pump out. -> VGA In. -> VGA Out. -> Radiator In. -> Radiator out. -> CPU In. -> CPU Out. -> Radiator In. -> Radiator Out. -> Reservoir In. ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wecells hope that @WhiteRise™ doesn't mind this picture editing?


Don't the pump and rad share inlets?


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Don't the pump and rad share inlets?


No, the reservoir is on the radiator outlet and the pump gets fed from there . Circulation goes into to the rad to res to pump to block in he stock config but he's altered it.

Nice build, how was filling...easy? Trying to figure a way to add a fill port to it with a 360 rad in the front of my case. Don't think it will be possible even with 90degree fittings. Adding a 360 is necessary as at 1400 rpm on the fans the 240 + 360 will handle around 330 watts which is about 85% of the oc'd 4790k and gtx 780Ti. Should be good for a 5c delta and nice and quiet, less than that I'd need higher rpm fans to move the heat out which means more noise.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Don't the pump and rad share inlets?


You're overthinking it a little. The pump outlet is the only only outlet for the kit and the radiator inlet or return is also the only one for this kit. Aside from that just make sure that you choose the shortest distance between components. The reason for this is that after the outlet and return the order of components in the loop doesn't make any difference in terms of performance.

The way @WhiteRise has his loop configured isn't necessary. It would have been cleaner to just go straight from the pump outlet to the CPU block and then down to the video cards. The reason I think @WhiteRise did this is because he may have thought that having the large radiator come after the GPU's would be necessary to cool the coolant. This isn't true. The coolant is moving too quickly to be affected by the order of components. I hope this clears things up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> No, the reservoir is on the radiator outlet and the pump gets fed from there . Circulation goes into to the rad to res to pump to block if I'm not mistaken.


This is correct.


----------



## springs113

I have a lil dilemma and I want to close my loop up but don't really have an idea of how I should....i'll upload a photo.

IMG_1536.JPG 3220k .JPG file

Now I have a 420 @the bottom.
How shall I go about this?

I was going to hook the out from the tube res to the in on the rad(h220x), the out from the pump to the top rad(black ice xflow), then finally the in of the tube res to the 420 rad then the 420 rad to the out of the gpu.

so res >h220x >360top rad >vrm >cpu >gpu >420 rad >res
Is that ok?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I have a lil dilemma and I want to close my loop up but don't really have an idea of how I should....i'll upload a photo.
> 
> IMG_1536.JPG 3220k .JPG file
> 
> Now I have a 420 @the bottom.
> How shall I go about this?
> 
> I was going to hook the out from the tube res to the in on the rad(h220x), the out from the pump to the top rad(black ice xflow), then finally the in of the tube res to the 420 rad then the 420 rad to the out of the gpu.
> 
> so res >h220x >360top rad >vrm >cpu >gpu >420 rad >res
> Is that ok?


I think I'm missing something. Where is the 420 rad located?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

The hardest part of waiting for an H220X, is going to microcenter and seeing their "demo rigs" and snickering at what they're missing... and knowing that you have a beast on its way.

If you think about it, if it wasn't for Asetek being as much of a turd as they are, would we have an H220x (or even a glacer 240L)? So in a somewhat odd way, we have to thank them for making an incentive exist to have this monster (and have it able to put an mcp50x in there for "silly power").

On a serious note, has anyone mcp50x'd his / her h220x yet?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think I'm missing something. Where is the 420 rad located?


It is not shown but it is located at the bottom. I have an obsidian 900d case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> It is not shown but it is located at the bottom. I have an obsidian 900d case.


OK, in that case your proposed loop configuration works just fine. Please post pics once you get it all tubed up and running.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, in that case your proposed loop configuration works just fine. Please post pics once you get it all tubed up and running.


I sure will, what threw me off is having the dual res not to mention this is my second venture into the arts of W/C, first was with the H220.


----------



## kckyle

hi does anyone know where to get the h320 gpu block?


----------



## VSG

It isn't a GPU block. Just a 360mm rad version of the H220. NCIX is your best bet in the USA!


----------



## BangBangPlay

Finished my GPU loop and now all I have to do is swap that H100i for an H220x for one continuous loop.



One question about filling the entire loop (once the H220x is in). Can I use the lower EK 2.2 pump/res to fill the entire loop and then just fire up both pumps once the loop is full? That way I don't have to fill both reservoirs and worry about one pump running dry.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Finished my GPU loop and now all I have to do is swap that H100i for an H220x for one continuous loop.
> 
> 
> 
> One question about filling the entire loop (once the H220x is in). Can I use the lower EK 2.2 pump/res to fill the entire loop and then just fire up both pumps once the loop is full? That way I don't have to fill both reservoirs and worry about one pump running dry.


I wouldn't do it that way. What I would do in that situation is just fill with the pump that's being fed by the reservoir you're filling the loop with. I wouldn't run the other pump until you've completely filled the loop and then use the second pump to help the bleeding process.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I wouldn't do it that way. What I would do in that situation is just fill with the pump that's being fed by the reservoir you're filling the loop with. I wouldn't run the other pump until you've completely filled the loop and then use the second pump to help the bleeding process.


Oh no, that's what I meant. I wouldn't try to use both pumps until it was totally full. It seems to me that the easiest res to fill would be the EK res at the bottom of my case. Although it's small, it's super easy to fill with a small funnel. The h220x seems like it would be very difficult to fill once it's installed, especially in a 350D because of the 5.25 bay. I suppose it could be filled first and then mounted, but in my setup it would be easier to fill the lower res/pump.


----------



## Sydeon

For some reason the Red plastic that comes with the h220x for the LED change, it's orange not dark red or any red for that matter.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Where are the H220X available in the US? I only found one on eBay for $190 after shipping!! I want to purchase one within the next month or so. Also does the pump interfere with normal size/height RAM modules? In the pictures I have seen the clearance looks really close...


----------



## kckyle

i know but it talks about expandability, but what do i expand it with? where is the gpu block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Where are the H220X available in the US? I only found one on eBay for $190 after shipping!! I want to purchase one within the next month or so. Also does the pump interfere with normal size/height RAM modules? In the pictures I have seen the clearance looks really close...


ncix.com has it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Where are the H220X available in the US? I only found one on eBay for $190 after shipping!! I want to purchase one within the next month or so. Also does the pump interfere with normal size/height RAM modules? In the pictures I have seen the clearance looks really close...


We'll have these back in stock later this week and the pump will clear normal height RAM modules without a problem.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i know but it talks about expandability, but what do i expand it with? where is the gpu block?
> ncix.com has it.


the kit doesn't have a gpu block. This kit is like the middle ground between a closed loop and a custom loop. it acts like a closed loop out of the box but has the ablity to be a custom loop. you buy appropriate tubing/gpu block/radiator/fittings of your choice and expand.


----------



## Mega Man

well said


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We'll have these back in stock later this week and the pump will clear normal height RAM modules without a problem.


That's great to hear! After posting I saw a picture with a better angle and realized it has plenty of clearance. I priced doing a comparable custom loop and it wasn't even close in price. The H 220X really is a great deal for what you get. I'm really looking forward to adding it to my loop.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> No, the reservoir is on the radiator outlet and the pump gets fed from there . Circulation goes into to the rad to res to pump to block in he stock config but he's altered it.
> 
> Nice build, how was filling...easy? Trying to figure a way to add a fill port to it with a 360 rad in the front of my case. Don't think it will be possible even with 90degree fittings. Adding a 360 is necessary as at 1400 rpm on the fans the 240 + 360 will handle around 330 watts which is about 85% of the oc'd 4790k and gtx 780Ti. Should be good for a 5c delta and nice and quiet, less than that I'd need higher rpm fans to move the heat out which means more noise.


Thanks for clearing that up Synchro! Here's a clearer picture from today,



I filled everything and bled it outside the case. I had a friend help me drop everything into place. I'm pretty accustomed to this, but there it probably an easier way. I've been thinking about a fill port myself, but I don't have any good ideas yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're overthinking it a little. The pump outlet is the only only outlet for the kit and the radiator inlet or return is also the only one for this kit. Aside from that just make sure that you choose the shortest distance between components. The reason for this is that after the outlet and return the order of components in the loop doesn't make any difference in terms of performance.
> 
> The way @WhiteRise has his loop configured isn't necessary. It would have been cleaner to just go straight from the pump outlet to the CPU block and then down to the video cards. The reason I think @WhiteRise did this is because he may have thought that having the large radiator come after the GPU's would be necessary to cool the coolant. This isn't true. The coolant is moving too quickly to be affected by the order of components. I hope this clears things up.


The truth is I didn't want to buy a 90 degree barb for that last turn.


----------



## Mega Man

love the avatar @WhiteRice


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sydeon*
> 
> For some reason the Red plastic that comes with the h220x for the LED change, it's orange not dark red or any red for that matter.


I know your pain. I went back and looked at the box. It's kind of an orange-red. I ended up going with white, matches the reservoir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> love the avatar @WhiteRice


Thanks! You too!


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up Synchro! Here's a clearer picture from today,
> 
> 
> 
> I filled everything and bled it outside the case. I had a friend help me drop everything into place. I'm pretty accustomed to this, but there it probably an easier way. I've been thinking about a fill port myself, but I don't have any good ideas yet.
> The truth is I didn't want to buy a 90 degree barb for that last turn.


This looks like a really nice set up, but can you fit the gpu blocks in to a tri or quad sli or crossfire?


----------



## sixsigmamb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up Synchro! Here's a clearer picture from today,
> 
> 
> 
> I filled everything and bled it outside the case. I had a friend help me drop everything into place. I'm pretty accustomed to this, but there it probably an easier way. I've been thinking about a fill port myself, but I don't have any good ideas yet.
> The truth is I didn't want to buy a 90 degree barb for that last turn.


This looks like a really nice set up, but can you fit the gpu blocks in to a tri or quad sli or crossfire?


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixsigmamb*
> 
> This looks like a really nice set up, but can you fit the gpu blocks in to a tri or quad sli or crossfire?


Fit? I think you'll need an additional pump.


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Got my H220-X today! Don't have time to install today and I have a few other things planned with my case before I install. Decided to share a few unboxing photos. I'm really impressed with the build quality and it should fit perfectly in my 600T. I do have some particles floating around in the reservoir, but overall totally impressed with what I see.
> Been following the news about this since it was first announced and happy to have it in my hands finally!!


To replace the connectors from the hoses that pump and radiator?


----------



## jackalopeater

I know I'm late to the party and the X series is out. But I wanted to say that I'm loving my H320









Oh and I wanted to get in the club


----------



## Neo Zuko

what size screws does the rad in the H220X use? I want to buy longer replacements.


----------



## M3TAl

6-32 i think? Usual length from fan to rad is 1.25".


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> To replace the connectors from the hoses that pump and radiator?


Sorry not sure what you are asking. Did you mean what else I have planned that is keeping me from installing?


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys
Does anyone know the exact model of the helix 120mm fans used on the h320

Cheers


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi guys
> Does anyone know the exact model of the helix 120mm fans used on the h320
> 
> Cheers


http://www.swiftech.com/Helix120-PWM.aspx


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I CONCUR WITH BRYAN....
> 
> BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
> *G E N T L E* LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY. final note: of course if you break one just let us know, and we'll send you replacement immediately.


Thanks. I will go easy. Stupid question: On the product page it says it fits AMD AM3 sockets. I have the FX 8350 which is an AM3+ socket. Will the bracket that comes in the box still work? For some reason I didnt think there was a difference between the two when it came to waterblock mounting. In other words, the width, height, and other exterior features should be the same for AM3 and AM3+, right?


----------



## M3TAl

The hole spacing for all AM2/AM3 sockets is identical. Any bracket that works for AM2 works for AM2+/AM3/AM3+.


----------



## Mega Man

or am1, or fm/fm2 ectg..... amd is shmart !~~


----------



## Topsu

Anyother reviews than the one from Linustechtips out yet?


----------



## VSG

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review

Much better one than Linus's in my opinion. They have a video on YouTube as well. Honestly, if I was doing the review I would test a cooler at the stock configuration and then optimize for noise and performance using different pump curves or fans for a total of 3 configurations. It makes no sense to switch the fans to Noctua every single time, especially when a voltage reducer is used - PWM fans don't like being undervolted.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> Anyother reviews than the one from Linustechtips out yet?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?289340-Swiftech-H220-X-Review-Part-1-of-2


----------



## dreameer111

I know this is probably a dumb question, but which tubing size is smaller?
3/8" ID - 5/8" OD or 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD? And will both fit the h220x?


----------



## M3TAl

The outer diameter is the same while the 3/8" has a smaller inner diameter (meaning a thicker wall). Whats the stock fitting size for the H220X? If it's 3/8" then 7/16" won't really work. If it's 1/2" then 3/8" (very difficult) or 7/16" (easier) can be forced on a 1/2" barb.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The outer diameter is the same while the 3/8" has a smaller inner diameter (meaning a thicker wall). Whats the stock fitting size for the H220X? If it's 3/8" then 7/16" won't really work. If it's 1/2" then 3/8" (very difficult) or 7/16" (easier) can be forced on a 1/2" barb.


Stock uses 3/8" barbs, 3/8" x 5/8" tubing.


----------



## Caos

I join the club good, in the past I had the h220 but the pump died and I could not do RMA, because I'm from Paraguay-South America .. now I went back to buy the h220x hope this time not disappoint me, I come from a eisberg 240L







came to my country in a week and a half


----------



## BenJaminJr

^^^You will not be disappointed!


----------



## RetiredAssassin

waiting for mine...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> waiting for mine...


Please post your pictures and give us some feedback on what you think of the install process. Please also let us know if there is anything that you found difficult or didn't particularly care for. We appreciate all of the feedback and constructive criticism that our customers give us. It helps us to improve.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please post your pictures and give us some feedback on what you think of the install process. Please also let us know if there is anything that you found difficult or didn't particularly care for. We appreciate all of the feedback and constructive criticism that our customers give us. It helps us to improve.


Hey Bram I guess the way I had the system wont work because I couldn't the pump to circulate the water for the life of me.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I've been looking to buy the 220x or the 320 hopefully in next couple of months. My question is I've never done a water cooling loop before and I'd like to mount the radiator on the outside of the case with it turned on end horizontally can this be done or does the design require it to be horizontal since pump and rea is on the bottom...

Second question is if you remove the hoses to go through the chassis... what is best way to fill the pump again so you aren't running it dry to fill?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please post your pictures and give us some feedback on what you think of the install process. Please also let us know if there is anything that you found difficult or didn't particularly care for. We appreciate all of the feedback and constructive criticism that our customers give us. It helps us to improve.


OK Brian. I have it in, and running. I love the design, I LOVE the lightup stuff, but let's get to work.

First, this thing is built like a brick. I suspected it would be heavy - having held my share of H100i's, but this was completely unexpected. The first time I picked it up to line it up with the case, I nearly dropped it. This AIO *HAS* to weigh a good 5 lbs. However, the fact that it's all copper, means that the weight is a good thing. I even like the dangling reservoir / pump that's attached to the radiator.

I like the environmentally friendly packaging, and the all-in-one nature of the machine, and I like that it can be expanded in order to accommodate more blocks, radiators, etc., It's just as content cooling my 4790K, as it would if I put a 780 Ti into the mix. I'm chicken, so all it will be tasked to do is keep the CPU cool. However, why was styrofoam used for the outerbox? It's not a negative on the product, and I understand that styrofoam peanuts can be bought en masse rather cheaply, but they're not the easiest to get rid of in an ethical fashion. No points off on the product itself though.

The TIM-MATE is STARTLINGLY liquidy... I'm used to more "stiff" cooling pastes such as ICD7, and the TIM-MATE's lower viscosity caught me off guard. Nonetheless, I got the pea-method to work, and on it went. This is where my first negative is. putting the apogee XL onto the CPU is a fight when the case is an obsidian 350D. For two reasons: Radiator clearance, and tube structure.

First, the radiator clearance in the 350D is *BARELY* there. If you don't have flat, modular, cables (ie: RM / AX PSUs), it may be impossible to get the non-reservoir'd end up into the case. The radiator hangs over the top , obscures any paths to cable management in the back, and it sits on the flat 8-pin connector. I still got it in, but it took an incredible amount of finagling to do so. I'll put it this way, manufacturing tolerances could have been the difference between a tight fit, and a return of the H220x to Swiftech. Thankfully, it fit.

Next, I have an issue with the tubing and the application of the block to the motherboard. I am VERY appreciative that the tubing is actual, proper, real-live, watercooling tubing, and not the stuff put on "Ass-Tek" coolers. However, it comes at the cost of maneuverability within the 350D.. 3/8 ID / 5/8 OD means that the tube can get rather tense and try to spring downwards while you're lining up the cpu cooler to the motherboard holes. I got it in, but the force needed for me was more than I expected (by a great margin). It doesn't have ANY kink to it, so the thicker walls are a good thing, it's just the stiffness is something I'm going to have to get used to.

One question I have is, I can tell the cooler is lit, the res is lit, the fans are spinning, but how can i tell if the pump is working if there is no screen hooked up, I do see little things float by (bubbles, dunno)? Just wondering.

Jason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Hey Bram I guess the way I had the system wont work because I couldn't the pump to circulate the water for the life of me.


You probably have too much air in your loop still, so the pump isn't working because it's sucking on air. Can you hear the pump running at least?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You probably have too much air in your loop still, so the pump isn't working because it's sucking on air. Can you hear the pump running at least?


Hey Brian,

Thanks for taking the time to go over fan screwing. I made a writeup. My one concern is how can i tell if the pump is on? The most i hear are fans, and a very faint tick.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please post your pictures and give us some feedback on what you think of the install process. Please also let us know if there is anything that you found difficult or didn't particularly care for. We appreciate all of the feedback and constructive criticism that our customers give us. It helps us to improve.


sure, thanks for support btw







I'll be getting mine within 3 days and I'll post the pics and what not ask questions if I face any trouble installing it, thanks once again


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Hey Brian,
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to go over fan screwing. I made a writeup. My one concern is how can i tell if the pump is on? The most i hear are fans, and a very faint tick.


You should be able to see the coolant circulating and feel the pump vibrating a little. Do you have the PWM connector plugged into your motherboard? This will give you the speed that the pump is running and let you control it.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You should be able to see the coolant circulating and feel the pump vibrating a little. Do you have the PWM connector plugged into your motherboard? This will give you the speed that the pump is running and let you control it.


I hear a very faint tick sound (not the "H220 pump died LOUD tick, but a faint tick). I've not yet hooked a monitor to this rig because it's in progress (need RAM and SSD and an HDMI cable). The pwm for the pump is plugged into the red-covered pwm port in the splitter, the h220x's fans are in the white splitters immediately next to the pump. The sata for the pump is plugged in as well, but it's so quiet / smooth that the most i see is the occasional little something or other move by.

Jason


----------



## kevindd992002

If the fan + rad of the h220x won't fit my case, I have no choice but to mount the fans outside. If that's the case, how do I go about filtering dust from getting into my system through those case fans?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You don't need a heat sink for the MCP50X. It doesn't run nearly as hot as the 35X does. Also, that extra for the pump is in the final design phase, so it might still be a couple weeks out. I'll keep you posted and I'll try to give the details in full when I get into work on Monday.


Any updates/details yet???


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If the fan + rad of the h220x won't fit my case, I have no choice but to mount the fans outside. If that's the case, how do I go about filtering dust from getting into my system through those case fans?


you would need a 240mm fan filter(or 2x 120mm) . You make it sound like the only fan filters in existence is only found on cases.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Woot! Parts ordered to add a 360 rad and Komodo NV LE block for my 780Ti to the H220-X loop. Should be here Friday. Also will be changing to 3/8 x 5/8" compression fittings (except for the H220-x rad in and pump out fittings which I will leave stock until the adapter is available) and the blue Hydrx coolant. Should be fun, will take lots of pictures.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Will the adapters allow for different fittings to be used or are they just so people can use 1/2 tubing?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I hear a very faint tick sound (not the "H220 pump died LOUD tick, but a faint tick). I've not yet hooked a monitor to this rig because it's in progress (need RAM and SSD and an HDMI cable). The pwm for the pump is plugged into the red-covered pwm port in the splitter, the h220x's fans are in the white splitters immediately next to the pump. The sata for the pump is plugged in as well, but it's so quiet / smooth that the most i see is the occasional little something or other move by.
> 
> Jason


It sounds to me like it's working then. If you see some small bubbles pass by the acrylic window then the pump is running and circulating the coolant. These are very quiet pumps and they produce hardly any vibrations at all.


----------



## Conditioned

http://www.gtek.net/ which is cited as a reseller on your page is offering its domain for sale when you point your browser there. Overclockers.se which is also cited doesnt have any swiftech products that I can find. Any chance of getting the h220x to sweden soon? How much would shipping here be? When I try to pay through paypal it doesnt say anything about shipping, ie the price is what it says on the page (~139 dollars ~102 euros). Is this correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Will the adapters allow for different fittings to be used or are they just so people can use 1/2 tubing?


The adapter will provide a standard G 1/4 female port. This will allow customers to use any size fittings that they want, so long as they also use the standard G 1/4 threads. This has become pretty much an industry standard at this point.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Any updates/details yet???


Soon







.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol you are getting just as bad as Derick


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It sounds to me like it's working then. If you see some small bubbles pass by the acrylic window then the pump is running and circulating the coolant. These are very quiet pumps and they produce hardly any vibrations at all.


They're very quiet, all I hear is a faint, but rapid "tick" noise. The silence of the H220x relative to an aircooler is amazing. It's also a bit scary. What I see pass by is about the size of a grain of sand. And it's every few seconds I see one float by. They're white in color. Unless I'm just not heaitng up the cpu enough to make the pump work hard...

Jason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> They're very quiet, all I hear is a faint, but rapid "tick" noise. The silence of the H220x relative to an aircooler is amazing. It's also a bit scary. What I see pass by is about the size of a grain of sand. And it's every few seconds I see one float by. They're white in color. Unless I'm just not heaitng up the cpu enough to make the pump work hard...
> 
> Jason


Can you send me a picture or take a video of it? You have my email.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The adapter will provide a standard G 1/4 female port. This will allow customers to use any size fittings that they want, so long as they also use the standard G 1/4 threads. This has become pretty much an industry standard at this point.


Still learning a lot with WC'ing. If you were using adapters and different fittings, could you use rigid tubing down the road if you wanted to, or with the AIO type kits are you limited? I'm not planning on doing anything special with my initial installation, but I am wondering what kind of options I will have once I expand it to include the gpu.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Sure. Once I get the thing up and running and put a load that'll get it moving, i'll do it. Is something abnormal?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Sure. Once I get the thing up and running and put a load that'll get it moving, i'll do it. Is something abnormal?


Probably not, but I'd like to have a look for myself. As we've stated previously there could be some very small acrylic particles that wind up in the coolant due to having to include the bleed port so late. If yours is about the size of a grain of sand then it shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you would need a 240mm fan filter(or 2x 120mm) . You make it sound like the only fan filters in existence is only found on cases.


The thing is that I already have a demciflex filter for the top of my case and it really works well. If I mount the fans outside then I won't be able to use those.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> How much would shipping here be? When I try to pay through paypal it doesnt say anything about shipping, ie the price is what it says on the page (~139 dollars ~102 euros). Is this correct?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10710#post_22602385


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10710#post_22602385


Thanks for that.


----------



## Conditioned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10710#post_22602385


Thanks we.


----------



## delpy8

Guys can anyone tell me where in Europe or UK I can buy the Swiftech H20-320 EDGE HD in white

Cheers


----------



## souldriver

To anyone who has seen the h220x in person, I know some people say the res is blue but in videos it seems to be a white with the smallest blue tinge (like how some white led lights are cooler temperatures and come off a little blue looking) how would you describe it?


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> To anyone who has seen the h220x in person, I know some people say the res is blue but in videos it seems to be a white with the smallest blue tinge (like how some white led lights are cooler temperatures and come off a little blue looking) how would you describe it?


H220X comes with 3 different color films that you place them behind/infront res. and that would change the color.


----------



## M3TAl

Just curious, what happen to Phelan's review/giveaway?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just curious, what happen to Phelan's review/giveaway?


Still gonna happen, but it may have to be after my wife and I move (we're moving to Colorado Sept 1st). Sorry, we've just been crazy busy with prep and my wife's schooling (she'll graduate with an MFA Aug 16th).


----------



## M3TAl

Oh wow! Congrats


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Still gonna happen, but it may have to be after my wife and I move (we're moving to Colorado Sept 1st). Sorry, we've just been crazy busy with prep and my wife's schooling (she'll graduate with an MFA Aug 16th).


Well then, as a fellow Coloradoan, I will give you an early "Welcome to Colorado!" And maybe point you to here: *Colorado Overclockers*


----------



## M3TAl

Don't forget to hit up all the Colorado Micro Breweries!


----------



## souldriver

Sounds good to me, I thought the film's were only for the cpu block. I guess the same question applies though, with the clear film what is the res color like?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> Sounds good to me, I thought the film's were only for the cpu block. I guess the same question applies though, with the clear film what is the res color like?


I think he misunderstood you. The coolant is a very light blue. It's nearly clear, but the LED in the reservoir does intensify the blue a little.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The issue is that you weren't using a power supply with the recommended wattage from the video card manufacturer, I can't authorize an RMA for the kit due to this. The reason for this is that it's likely that due to the power fluctuations through the board due to the lower wattage power supply the pump eventually failed. The way these motherboard power delivery systems work is that they prioritize power. I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but essentially the board will prioritize power in order to keep critical systems like the GPU functioning properly and this will thus create power fluctuations in other systems. The fact that the pump behaved differently when under stress is a very clear indication of this. If it was just a PWM fan or even a hard drive you likely wouldn't have had an issue. This isn't a fan or a hard drive though. It's a much higher wattage pump that requires quite a bit more current. Also, due to the fact that it's a PWM device the current needs to stay fairly consistent or you'll damage the pump. This is very likely what's happened.


Just seen this posted on another forum as your reason for denying an RMA.

Can you explain exactly how a motherboard can regulate _current_?


----------



## Caos

finally installed

before


after




the product is amazing .. I love happy for the change.

any opinion?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Just seen this posted on another forum as your reason for denying an RMA.
> 
> Can you explain exactly how a motherboard can regulate _current_?


I kind of misspoke. This is actually more of a power supply issue. The power supply isn't rated for the hardware that he's using. A 450 watt power supply just won't cut it for that hardware and we're not responsible for third party damage to our products.

We're not sending another replacement to a customer that has had a few issues in the past and they all appear now to be due to his lower wattage power supply for the system that he's running. He actually acknowledged this as well in a previous email to me.


----------



## Gabkicks

Has the thermal compound included been reviewed?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Just seen this posted on another forum as your reason for denying an RMA.
> 
> Can you explain exactly how a motherboard can regulate _current_?


same concept of 2d mode and 3d mode of gpus. the computer will run with a specified amount of voltage(usually higher than normal) to avoid total computer crashes. The problem with motherboards is if you are running the pump directly on the cpu header and _not the included 8 way splitter_, in a worst case scenario(extreme heavy synthetic load), the system will deliever the cleanest amount of power to core computer components like cpu and gpu(things that have direct connections to the PSU in some form) potentially at the cost of minor components such as fan headers. The PWM based swiftech pump does not respond to fluctuations in voltage so if the motherboard decided to slightly decrease the voltage on the fan header, it could potentially break the pump. That's why regardless of situation it is heavily preferred for someone to run the pump through the specified 8 way splitter or other confirmed PWM based fan controllers(some listed on swiftechs page, high end controllers like the aquero also has a pwm channel) as these products get their power directly from the PSU via molex and do not rely on the motherboard for power.

edit: above what brian said is true as well. if you are running components past the PSU limit, its not very safe to add more stuff that are power sensitive to the system


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> same concept of 2d mode and 3d mode of gpus. the computer will run with a specified amount of voltage(usually higher than normal) to avoid total computer crashes. The problem with motherboards is if you are running the pump directly on the cpu header and _not the included 8 way splitter_, in a worst case scenario(extreme heavy synthetic load), the system will deliever the cleanest amount of power to core computer components like cpu and gpu(things that have direct connections to the PSU in some form) potentially at the cost of minor components such as fan headers. The PWM based swiftech pump does not respond to fluctuations in voltage so if the motherboard decided to slightly decrease the voltage on the fan header, it could potentially break the pump. That's why regardless of situation it is heavily preferred for someone to run the pump through the specified 8 way splitter or other confirmed PWM based fan controllers(some listed on swiftechs page, high end controllers like the aquero also has a pwm channel) as these products get their power directly from the PSU via molex and do not rely on the motherboard for power.
> 
> edit: above what brian said is true as well. if you are running components past the PSU limit, its not very safe to add more stuff that are power sensitive to the system


The issue with his particular system though is due to the load at heavy use. Even having the pump powered by the splitter can be problematic if the total system power draw reduces the power needed for the pump. This isn't the first time that this customer had the exact same issue and statistically that's just not likely. He also admitted that he was not following the recommended power supply requirements for his system.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I kind of misspoke. This is actually more of a power supply issue. The power supply isn't rated for the hardware that he's using. A 450 watt power supply just won't cut it for that hardware and we're not responsible for third party damage to our products.


It was from the NCase M1 owners club thread on [H]. It's a custom SFF case with production run of 1500, that only fits an SFX PSU. Luckily the ST45SF-G is an exceptional piece of engineering. Until yesterday, the main recommended watercooling unit when people ask was the H220, because of its low profile and easy expandibility for GPU block. Many M1 owners sporting Titans, 780Ti's and 290X's using H220s and AD2s with no issues whatsoever powering them, albeit likely not direct from the motherboard. Some reports of H220 with noisy pumps and whatnot, but generally people speak well of the RMA experience. However, now there's some consternation about recommending the H220 if the RMAs will be denied on a technicality ("780TI draws 600W!" - you know an 8+6 pin GPU may only draw max 22 amps).

Even if the pump is directly connected to the motherboard it's rated for 6W / 0.5 amps, and the board in question is rated for 1 amp on the CPU header.

If there's some corroborative statements from motherboard manufacturers about this "reduced power" effect on fan headers, I would be happy to read it.

Just to be clear: if it's user error, then it's user error. I don't want to meddle in your RMA policy. I'm happy with my own RMA experience from a broken AD2 last year. It's just that the explanation seems to be a bit of a fudge compared to the collective experience in the M1 owners thread.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It was from the NCase M1 owners club thread on [H]. It's a custom SFF case with production run of 1500, that only fits an SFX PSU. Luckily the ST45SF-G is an exceptional piece of engineering. Until yesterday, the main recommended watercooling unit when people ask was the H220, because of its low profile and easy expandibility for GPU block. Many M1 owners sporting Titans, 780Ti's and 290X's using H220s and AD2s with no issues whatsoever powering them, albeit likely not direct from the motherboard. Some reports of H220 with noisy pumps and whatnot, but generally people speak well of the RMA experience. However, now there's some consternation about recommending the H220 if the RMAs will be denied on a technicality ("780TI draws 600W!" - you know an 8+6 pin GPU may only draw max 22 amps).
> 
> Even if the pump is directly connected to the motherboard it's rated for 6W / 0.5 amps, and the board in question is rated for 1 amp on the CPU header.
> 
> If there's some corroborative statements from motherboard manufacturers about this "reduced power" effect on fan headers, I would be happy to read it.
> 
> Just to be clear: if it's user error, then it's user error. I don't want to meddle in your RMA policy. I'm happy with my own RMA experience from a broken AD2 last year. It's just that the explanation seems to be a bit of a fudge compared to the collective experience in the M1 owners thread.


As I stated previously, the issue in this case is related to the power supply. If this was the first one then I'd have no problem with it. To have this same exact issue multiple times now indicates to me that there's something wrong with his power supply. I'm not going to send him another unit to just have the same exact thing happen again because he's unwilling to address the real issue. I understand that there are other similar systems that aren't having an issue, and if they did start having issues though we'd have to look further into this.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As I stated previously, the issue in this case is related to the power supply. If this was the first one then I'd have no problem with it. To have this same exact issue multiple times now indicates to me that there's something wrong with his power supply. I'm not going to send him another unit to just have the same exact thing happen again because he's unwilling to address the real issue. I understand that there are other similar systems that aren't having an issue, and if they did start having issues though we'd have to look further into this.


Fair enough, I will relay your response to the M1 owner's club. Thanks for your time.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> finally installed
> 
> before
> 
> 
> after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the product is amazing .. I love happy for the change.
> 
> any opinion?


hay mate, how did you mount a fan under the rad? as far as I know H220X's fans sit on top of rad, did you do some modding to have the fans below rad or they are still on top of rad it's just you made only left side pull&pull by somehow adding a fan below the rad? thanks.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hay mate, how did you mount a fan under the rad? as far as I know H220X's fans sit on top of rad, did you do some modding to have the fans below rad or they are still on top of rad it's just you made only left side pull&pull by somehow adding a fan below the rad? thanks.


You can only do push/pull on one side and that sorta leaves your swivel to a minimum if any.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone whats up.Ok,im about to make my purchase but right before i do,i need some help.please help me figure this out.Ok,so i have some concerns regarding the fans,controller,mobo and fan controller..So are these fans 3pin or 4 pin? and Not only do i need to know that,if i hook up the fans to that controller thingy that it comes with,do i hook that up to the mobo or fan controller?


----------



## Dudewitbow

on the topic of SFF builds, there should really be company that converts the supplementary 5.25bay and reengineer it to try to fit it in a smaller space(3.5?). if that happens, then SFF could really explode
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone whats up.Ok,im about to make my purchase but right before i do,i need some help.please help me figure this out.Ok,so i have some concerns regarding the fans,controller,mobo and fan controller..So are these fans 3pin or 4 pin? and Not only do i need to know that,if i hook up the fans to that controller thingy that it comes with,do i hook that up to the mobo or fan controller?


1. 4 pin PWM fans
2. you hook the fans and pump into the 8 way splitter. you plug the splitter sata tot he PSU, and the 4 pin preferably to the CPU FAN header.(unless you have a mobo that supports PWM on other fans, though this is more of an enthusiast option)


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> on the topic of SFF builds, there should really be company that converts the supplementary 5.25bay and reengineer it to try to fit it in a smaller space(3.5?). if that happens, then SFF could really explode
> 1. 4 pin PWM fans
> 2. you hook the fans and pump into the 8 way splitter. you plug the splitter sata tot he PSU, and the 4 pin preferably to the CPU FAN header.(unless you have a mobo that supports PWM on other fans, though this is more of an enthusiast option)


Well thanks for the ultra fast reply man. that cleared things up.are they still doing that OCN promo or anywhere else? i was hoping it was $140 flat without shipping


----------



## Dry Bonez

Well damn,this sucks. i just tried ordering mine but they are out of stock and now i wont know when they will be in stock again.does anyone know how long it will take to replenish? I saw them at NCIX but it says preorder. Ugh,this really blows.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Well damn,this sucks. i just tried ordering mine but they are out of stock and now i wont know when they will be in stock again.does anyone know how long it will take to replenish? I saw them at NCIX but it says preorder. Ugh,this really blows.


We should have them back in stock tomorrow. I'll get confirmation of that when I get back into work in the morning.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We should have them back in stock tomorrow. I'll get confirmation of that when I get back into work in the morning.


Really? that fast? so why retailers dont have this product yet and is listed as "preorder"? none the less,yes please check :thumb:because im waking up just to see if its available.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Really? that fast? so why retailers dont have this product yet and is listed as "preorder"? none the less,yes please check :thumb:because im waking up just to see if its available.


I need to confirm that in the morning though. We've shipped these out to resellers, but I don't know which ones off of the top of my head, and it can take a little while before they list them as in stock. I'll try to have more details for you tomorrow.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I need to confirm that in the morning though. We've shipped these out to resellers, but I don't know which ones off of the top of my head, and it can take a little while before they list them as in stock. I'll try to have more details for you tomorrow.


Thanks man.i really appreciate it. I will definately be contacting you tomorrow so i can go ahead and place my order.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just curious, what happen to Phelan's review/giveaway?
> 
> 
> 
> Still gonna happen, but it may have to be after my wife and I move (we're moving to Colorado Sept 1st). Sorry, we've just been crazy busy with prep and my wife's schooling (she'll graduate with an MFA Aug 16th).
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Still gonna happen, but it may have to be after my wife and I move (we're moving to Colorado Sept 1st). Sorry, we've just been crazy busy with prep and my wife's schooling (she'll graduate with an MFA Aug 16th).
> 
> 
> 
> Well then, as a fellow Coloradoan, I will give you an early "Welcome to Colorado!" And maybe point you to here: *Colorado Overclockers*
Click to expand...

ditto ! if you need furnace/ac worked on i can help you !~


----------



## BangBangPlay

Hey Bram
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We should have them back in stock tomorrow. I'll get confirmation of that when I get back into work in the morning.


That would be sweet. I have my finger on the checkout button whenever they become in stock. I was going to wait, but better get while the gettin's good. I was wondering if the PWM control of the pump is the same as I'd control my case fans. I use AI Suite to link each fan to different temp sensors around the board (CPU, RAM, PCIe slots, etc). I even have a water temp sensor in my loop that can be linked to the fans to create a custom profile for overall water temp. I'd love to be able to link the pump directly to the water temp so it only works hard when it needs to. My other EK 2.2 pump is connected via SATA directly to the PSU so it only runs at full speed, which isn't very loud anyways. Or is there some software that comes bundles with the H220X that is used specifically to control the pump and fans?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Hey Bram
> That would be sweet. I have my finger on the checkout button whenever they become in stock. I was going to wait, but better get while the gettin's good. I was wondering if the PWM control of the pump is the same as I'd control my case fans. I use AI Suite to link each fan to different temp sensors around the board (CPU, RAM, PCIe slots, etc). I even have a water temp sensor in my loop that can be linked to the fans to create a custom profile for overall water temp. I'd love to be able to link the pump directly to the water temp so it only works hard when it needs to. My other EK 2.2 pump is connected via SATA directly to the PSU so it only runs at full speed, which isn't very loud anyways. Or is there some software that comes bundles with the H220X that is used specifically to control the pump and fans?


There's no software that comes with the kit. You'll need to use your motherboard's software or the software of your PWM capable fan controller.


----------



## EarlZ

The CES vid showed that the block light was in breathe mode, how do we get to do that ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The CES vid showed that the block light was in breathe mode, how do we get to do that ?


That was a preproduction concept that was discarded. These are the same XL blocks that can be purchased from our website. The breathe mode that was shown in the video I think was just too difficult to implement well.


----------



## Jperture

I got the H220X unit last week and it's been running great, but want to ask a few questions about the reservoir.

If say I want to add Mayhem's Blood Red Dye to the loop (the white lighting on the reservoir is an eyesore in my red build), can I do so by just removing the fill cap and dripping a few drips of the dye without having to drain/refill? First time dealing with water cooling components and just want to clarify this before opening stuff up/

Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jperture*
> 
> I got the the H220X unit last week and it's been running great, but want to ask a few questions about the reservoir.
> 
> If say I want to add Mayhem's Blood Red Dye to the loop (the white lighting on the reservoir is an eyesore in my red build), can I do so by just removing the fill cap and dripping a few drips of the dye without having to drain/refill? First time dealing with water cooling components and just want to clarify this before opening stuff up/
> 
> Thanks.


I'd be careful using dyes. Yeah, they might look good, but I've had issues with them leaving deposits that clogged up my blocks after a while. You can try adding a few drops to the coolant and see if that gives you the effect you're looking for. Just keep in mind that maintenance on a loop with dye in it can be a pain. I know from experience.


----------



## Mega Man

ill leave this here


----------



## Dudewitbow

just to add on to maintenance, there's generally 3 choices that will cause maintenance overtime(at least off the top of my head) due to either clogging or staining:

1. Plasticizer, which is primarily dependent on tubing and warmth of water
2. Dye, depending on how concentrated the solution is. Preferably better to use as little as possible and not make a loop diluted in dye or you'll have monthly maintenance checks
3. Mixing metals(less of a problem as you only really find aluminum rads imported from china) but the other minor problem is if you use Silver(Kill coil or Monsoon Silver Bullet) in a loop containing Aceteal Nickel(e.g EK Aceteal Nikel Blocks as well as some Koolance Blocks) running pure Distilled water. Doing so can cause staining on Nickel plated blocks(and must be scrubbed off manually if you want the shine back) [as well as the fact that Koolance says it voids your warranty if you arent using their coolant or you use silver in the same loop]

preferably if you want the least maintenance, make the least changes possible(tubing can change, whether you think the price is worth it is up to you). Dont add anything. Adding anything to the loop will come with the cost of slightly more maintenance, either by manipulation of the loop or the coolant


----------



## Gabkicks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> H220X comes with 3 different color films that you place them behind/infront res. and that would change the color.


Eh? i dont see any films to alter color of reservoir. where are they in the box 0_0? mines looks cloudy white


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> just to add on to maintenance, there's generally 3 choices that will cause maintenance overtime(at least off the top of my head) due to either clogging or staining:
> 
> 1. Plasticizer, which is primarily dependent on tubing and warmth of water
> 2. Dye, depending on how concentrated the solution is. Preferably better to use as little as possible and not make a loop diluted in dye or you'll have monthly maintenance checks
> 3. Mixing metals(less of a problem as you only really find aluminum rads imported from china) but the other minor problem is if you use Silver(Kill coil or Monsoon Silver Bullet) in a loop containing Aceteal Nickel(e.g EK Aceteal Nikel Blocks as well as some Koolance Blocks) running pure Distilled water. Doing so can cause staining on Nickel plated blocks(and must be scrubbed off manually if you want the shine back) [as well as the fact that Koolance says it voids your warranty if you arent using their coolant or you use silver in the same loop]
> 
> preferably if you want the least maintenance, make the least changes possible(tubing can change, whether you think the price is worth it is up to you). Dont add anything. Adding anything to the loop will come with the cost of slightly more maintenance, either by manipulation of the loop or the coolant


all add one more thing, all monsoon fittings have silver in them ( the base )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> H220X comes with 3 different color films that you place them behind/infront res. and that would change the color.
> 
> 
> 
> Eh? i dont see any films to alter color of reservoir. where are they in the box 0_0? mines looks cloudy white
Click to expand...

they were in the box, very small


----------



## nado4ilhas

Hi, I wonder when it will return the unit in stock swiftech H220x?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The CES vid showed that the block light was in breathe mode, how do we get to do that ?
> 
> 
> 
> That was a preproduction concept that was discarded. These are the same XL blocks that can be purchased from our website. The breathe mode that was shown in the video I think was just too difficult to implement well.
Click to expand...

Or maybe someone can get creative with speed fan and control one of the headers?


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> Eh? i dont see any films to alter color of reservoir. where are they in the box 0_0? mines looks cloudy white


The films are only for the BLOCK, there aren't any films included for the reservoir window.


----------



## delpy8

Hi all does anyone know the maximum length from radiator to cpu block as I've got a new phanteks Enthoo Primo and want to install the h320 on the bottom of the case, just wondering if I need to buy new tubing


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi all does anyone know the maximum length from radiator to cpu block as I've got a new phanteks Enthoo Primo and want to install the h320 on the bottom of the case, just wondering if I need to buy new tubing


that case is beautiful man! congrats on it buddy.

If I'm not mistaken H320 isn't bottom mounted unit, I don't own one, but if it uses the very same type of fans as H220X then certainly that would make 320 not bottom mountable because that's how 220X because of they fans(I think you might be able to mount them at bottom if you change its stock fans) tho I'm not sure.

Just give sometime the Swiftech's official representative will answer this question with precious accuracy, I guess he's offline now but he wanders in this thread a lot, let him to confirm this for you, cheers mate!


----------



## dodgethis

You can place the fans on either side of the H320. There is no restriction for top or bottom. The barbs are on the end. My guess is that you might need tubing because it is quite a distance from the CPU to the bottom of the case, adding to the fact where the barbs are.

You will want to measure the length of the H320 if it can fit in the bottom. The rad's rather long because of the reservoir and barbs sticking out. It's about 420mm in total.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I need to confirm that in the morning though. We've shipped these out to resellers, but I don't know which ones off of the top of my head, and it can take a little while before they list them as in stock. I'll try to have more details for you tomorrow.


Hey Bram goodmorning. I went on the website to see if it was listed but was NOT listed. Can you verify for me if there will be more in stock today or some time this week?


----------



## VSG

It's not yet business hours there.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ditto ! if you need furnace/ac worked on i can help you !~


Thanks for the CO link! Think Phelan will let us buy him a beverage and pick his brain once he gets settled?


----------



## springs113

This is to anyone who have added to the H220x...
1. Did you add a separate reservoir? If so how did you add the coolant? Is h220x res filled to the max?
2. How long does it take to get the air bubbles out...just a rough estimate in time. I know that it could take days.

Watercooling question...
I. Should there be any air bubble attached to the inside the tubing?
II. Should I get rid of my tube res?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey Bram goodmorning. I went on the website to see if it was listed but was NOT listed. Can you verify for me if there will be more in stock today or some time this week?


We had them in stock and they went very quickly yesterday. I'm currently waiting for our factory to update us on when more will arrive. I'm hoping to have these back in stock early next week, but I'll update this thread as soon as I have confirmation of that. I'm sorry these went so quickly, but the last batch that we received mainly were for our resellers. We have some going out to Frozen and Performance and that's why we ran out so quickly.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Thanks for the CO link! Think Phelan will let us buy him a beverage and pick his brain once he gets settled?


Anytime







. I'm moving to Longmont area; my work (NRHS) is on the east side about a mile and a half from I25.


----------



## souldriver

Though i believe it will be ok, but its hard to tell since no mobos are out with it yet, will these kits fit the new intel x99 platform chips. I read this *"Dubbed LGA 2011-3, the derived socket has the same dimensions and ball pattern pitch as LGA 2011."* so im guessing we should be ok.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> Though i believe it will be ok, but its hard to tell since no mobos are out with it yet, will these kits fit the new intel x99 platform chips. I read this *"Dubbed LGA 2011-3, the derived socket has the same dimensions and ball pattern pitch as LGA 2011."* so im guessing we should be ok.


If that's the case then this should be compatible with the new socket.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

hhuuuurraaaa~







mine should be here tomorrow but rather by end of the day







which is not particularly exciting since gotta wait for it till end of the day... but this is not the reason I'm posting a comment in here, I actually have a question and would like to get some opinions/personal experience.

so as I already said I've waiting for my H220X, my question is` if I buy an EK water block for my 780Ti classified and water cool it with H220X *WITHOUT* adding any additional radiator, just the way H220X comes with dual 120mm rad, will this improve my GPU temps? as of now my gpu idles at 33-34, *BUT* I hope you also consider I'll be watercooling my CPU as well as my VII Formula's heatsink, so this dual 120mm rad unit should keep cool my three parts... CPU, GPU and VRMs, do you guys think I'll see some improvement watercooling my GPU along with the ones I mentioned above? thanks and cheers


----------



## Mega Man

My 2 cents never mix al and copper even if it is anodized. You are asking for trouble.

Your temps will be high. If you do add your gpu


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hhuuuurraaaa~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine should be here tomorrow but rather by end of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is not particularly exciting since gotta wait for it till end of the day... but this is not the reason I'm posting a comment in here, I actually have a question and would like to get some opinions/personal experience.
> 
> so as I already said I've waiting for my H220X, my question is` if I buy an EK water block for my 780Ti classified and water cool it with H220X *WITHOUT* adding any additional radiator, just the way H220X comes with dual 120mm rad, will this improve my GPU temps? as of now my gpu idles at 33-34, *BUT* I hope you also consider I'll be watercooling my CPU as well as my VII Formula's heatsink, so this dual 120mm rad unit should keep cool my three parts... CPU, GPU and VRMs, do you guys think I'll see some improvement watercooling my GPU along with the ones I mentioned above? thanks and cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My 2 cents never mix al and copper even if it is anodized. You are asking for trouble.
> 
> Your temps will be high. If you do add your gpu


thanks for your input, but I can't think of anything aluminum in there? GPU waterblock is fully copper, heatsink is fully copper and CPU waterblock is fully copper too?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for your input, but I can't think of anything aluminum in there? GPU waterblock is fully copper, heatsink is fully copper and CPU waterblock is fully copper too?


if you want to ask someone about performance of a cpu+gpu on only 240mm, ask the users who own Ncase M1's that have a gpu block installed.


----------



## Mega Man

i thought the formula heatsink was anodized AL

unless they updated it or your going aftermarket


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i thought the formula heatsink was anodized AL
> 
> unless they updated it or your going aftermarket


it used to be so, but they upgraded it with 2014 VII Formula and made it 100% copper.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hhuuuurraaaa~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine should be here tomorrow but rather by end of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is not particularly exciting since gotta wait for it till end of the day... but this is not the reason I'm posting a comment in here, I actually have a question and would like to get some opinions/personal experience.
> 
> so as I already said I've waiting for my H220X, my question is` if I buy an EK water block for my 780Ti classified and water cool it with H220X *WITHOUT* adding any additional radiator, just the way H220X comes with dual 120mm rad, will this improve my GPU temps? as of now my gpu idles at 33-34, *BUT* I hope you also consider I'll be watercooling my CPU as well as my VII Formula's heatsink, so this dual 120mm rad unit should keep cool my three parts... CPU, GPU and VRMs, do you guys think I'll see some improvement watercooling my GPU along with the ones I mentioned above? thanks and cheers


Just my two cents - why an EK rather than a Swiftech? I recently tested the EK and XSPC head to head with the Komodo NV-LE, and the Swiftech's performance was markedly better.

Answering your question directly - Your GPU and VRM temps should be _significantly_ better than using the stock cooling. CPU temps tend to suffer more in that setup, and naturally fan speeds will need to bump up to keep things cool so you will have a little more noise under load. I haven't done this with a 220-X, but have with an H220 and XSPC EX240 kit. GPU temps were excellent in comparison to air cooling, CPU temps tended to be equivalent to a good midrange air cooler (think Phanteks 12DX, Noctua U12S, be quiet! Dark Rock 3, etc.).


----------



## VSG

There is no Swiftech NV LE for the 780Ti Classified. Also, Stren's tests on various 290x blocks show the same story: Swiftech blocks are great for cooling the core, but leave the VRMs hot. For overclocking, both are important.

Anyway this is off topic. I will get my hands on the upcoming Corsair Air 240 today. Anyone want to check H220-X compatibility? I don't have the cooler but I can measure out the dimensions inside to see.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hhuuuurraaaa~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine should be here tomorrow but rather by end of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is not particularly exciting since gotta wait for it till end of the day... but this is not the reason I'm posting a comment in here, I actually have a question and would like to get some opinions/personal experience.
> 
> so as I already said I've waiting for my H220X, my question is` if I buy an EK water block for my 780Ti classified and water cool it with H220X *WITHOUT* adding any additional radiator, just the way H220X comes with dual 120mm rad, will this improve my GPU temps? as of now my gpu idles at 33-34, *BUT* I hope you also consider I'll be watercooling my CPU as well as my VII Formula's heatsink, so this dual 120mm rad unit should keep cool my three parts... CPU, GPU and VRMs, do you guys think I'll see some improvement watercooling my GPU along with the ones I mentioned above? thanks and cheers


I currently cool two 770s with a 240mm rad and temps are pretty good ( 27C idle/ 56C Furmark). But the rad is pretty thick and is setup to push pull. I am going to add the CPU (and replace my H100i with the H220X so I have two 240mm rads for 3 blocks. I have Corsair 350D so you must have space for another rad or two. I had to do some remodeling in my case to fit the front rad, but the drop in temps on both GPUs was significant. Plus if you ever plan to run SLI you'd likely have no issue with two 240mm rads.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Some new perspective on an M7Gene / Obsidian 350D / H220x, for everyone to read.

The clearances in this rig are TIGHT. I'm not talking "millimeters" (ie: I'd have 4 mm to play with if I had an H100i (25 + 25 = 50)), but rather "manufacturing tolerances" tight. I had to be very careful not to knock out the 8-pin CPU power plug. Also, because of the smaller size of the 350D relative to its larger obsidian brethren (450D and larger), it can be a bit of a fight to get the CPU block to line up. MAKE sure that the side with the "air" logo (triangle with a line through it) points up. This was something I didn't check for, and it was a massive fight for me. No kinking, but a lot of resistance. I removed the cooler for the time being so that I can put RAM in the machine (the pump / res combo being where it is makes it hard to put RAM in when the cooler is in there). As a result of these tight spaces, I've had to use the leftover space in the 5 1/4 bays to store plugs (hey, they fit), and I'm not sure, due to the proximity of the 8 pin to the "wire cleanup" hole, a 280mm rad version would fit. (NB: this is more of a knock on the obsidian 350d / m7gene combo than it is on the h220x, it's not the h220x's fault that the obsidian 350D has a "short top".)

Another issue I have with the H220x is that the PWM splitter isn't exactly "sticky" to what I would think such a splitter would "stick" to; ie: metallic surfaces. I'm not sure if I didn't get enough "sticky", or what, but the slightest movement causes it to fall off wherever I stick the splitter to. Such behavior does not affect the splitter's performance, but it does make my OCD go "what if it falls off" and constantly causes me to check it for such behavior. Again, this doesn't affect the performance of the H220x, but it's a little "whatif" quirk.

On the positive side, during the break-in runs that I did to make sure the mobo setup was working, the H220x at idle is quieter than my laptop (a sager NP8265-S) at idle; regardless of whether Optimus on the laptop is set to integrated graphics, or dedicated graphics (my laptop has an i7-4800mq / GTX 780m). I love that about the H220x. All the power to cool a 4790K, and yet it doesn't make my rig say "IM HERE!". I like this, and it's a reason I chose the H220x over the more traditional AIOs.

Once I get the RAM and SSD in, I'll be able to better assess how the H220x behaves as a working computer, but for now, all impressions of the unit itself are positive, it's the size limitations and the lack of super-sticky on the splitter's backside that are its only (and very minor) downsides for me.

Jason


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no Swiftech NV LE for the 780Ti Classified. Also, Stren's tests on various 290x blocks show the same story: Swiftech blocks are great for cooling the core, but leave the VRMs hot. For overclocking, both are important.


If I recall correctly, that isn't the LE version Stren tested and according to Swiftech this has been addressed. Have a NV-LE coming today and will verify, have FujiPoly pads coming as well just in
case. Always do a fit test before final setup to ensure all the components are being cooled properly. Looks like you are correct about the Classy Ti, not a reference design according to the cooling configurators I checked.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> so as I already said I've waiting for my H220X, my question is` if I buy an EK water block for my 780Ti classified and water cool it with H220X *WITHOUT* adding any additional radiator, just the way H220X comes with dual 120mm rad, will this improve my GPU temps?


Gotta do the math...here is a good place to start

At 1400 RPM on the fans the 2x120 rad are able to handle 120W no problem, thats plenty of room for an OC'd i7 and the pump...a 1:1 correlation which gives a nice less than 5C delta. Quiet and powerful cooling right out of the box. Problem is when you throw in a GPU which adds 250W or more, a single 2x120 with fans at 2200RPM can only handle around 200W which means your delta goes sky high which can lead to bad things. In adding my 780Ti (today when parts arrive) I'm also adding a 3x120 alphacool rad which provides another 200W of heat dissipation at 1400RPM for a total of 320W or about 90% of my total heat load when gaming or rendering etc. Should result in a delta of right around 5C at a noise level I find acceptable. Ideally I'd like a 1:1 ratio at lower fan RPM but would have to go to 4x140 or more on the rads in push pull for 360+W of dissipation and the cost of doing so isn't worth it to me (at this point...I change my mind a lot). Hope this helps!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> If I recall correctly, that isn't the LE version Stren tested and according to Swiftech this has been addressed.


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing/page4

If it has been addressed already then that's news to me. I hope that is the case though! Anyway, no more of this here.


----------



## WhiteRice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> This is to anyone who have added to the H220x...
> 1. Did you add a separate reservoir? If so how did you add the coolant? Is h220x res filled to the max?
> 2. How long does it take to get the air bubbles out...just a rough estimate in time. I know that it could take days.
> 
> Watercooling question...
> I. Should there be any air bubble attached to the inside the tubing?
> II. Should I get rid of my tube res?


I'm running crossfire gpus in addition to my cpu.

1. I did not. My H220X is at the top of my case so any bubbles go there. I added coolant through the drain port on the H220X. My reservoir is filled to the max.
2. I filled everything outside of my case and then had a friend help my lower it in. Filling everything outside of the case allows you to bleed air more easily. Brian has a you tube video that better demonstrates this process. Total time was less than 4 hours, but this is the third or fourth time I've done this.

I. If your tubes are below your reservoir and your loop is filled, no.
II. It depends on the complexity of your loop and how hard you think it will be to bleed.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288109-Stren-s-R9-290-290x-Water-Block-Testing/page4
> 
> If it has been addressed already then that's news to me. I hope that is the case though! Anyway, no more of this here.


Interesting, thanks for the link. Will know today for sure and will report back my results.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no Swiftech NV LE for the 780Ti Classified. Also, Stren's tests on various 290x blocks show the same story: Swiftech blocks are great for cooling the core, but leave the VRMs hot. For overclocking, both are important.
> 
> Anyway this is off topic. I will get my hands on the upcoming Corsair Air 240 today. Anyone want to check H220-X compatibility? I don't have the cooler but I can measure out the dimensions inside to see.


Stren's results were significantly different than our own and due to this we're requesting for him to redo them. I'll try to post here what his final results turn out to be.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Stren's results were significantly different than our own and due to this we're requesting for him to redo them. I'll try to post here what his final results turn out to be.


I look forward to it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is no Swiftech NV LE for the 780Ti Classified.


I totally missed the word "Classified".....my mistake.


----------



## Disabled

Can someone link me to the coolant swiftech uses for the h220x?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Can someone link me to the coolant swiftech uses for the h220x?


http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM2coolant.aspx


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM2coolant.aspx


Thanks. Is that the one that comes prefilled in the h220x? Cause it looks more clear than blue compared to the one linked


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Thanks. Is that the one that comes prefilled in the h220x? Cause it looks more clear than blue compared to the one linked


We don't currently have the coolant that these new kits are using. You can use any of the coolants that we sell in them though. We wanted to use something that was more clear in order for the LED to be more prominent. We also didn't want to have too much color in the coolant to prevent it from contrasting too much with the color that our customers decided to use on the water block.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't currently have the coolant that these new kits are using. You can use any of the coolants that we sell in them though. We wanted to use something that was more clear in order for the LED to be more prominent. We also didn't want to have too much color in the coolant to prevent it from contrasting too much with the color that our customers decided to use on the water block.


Thanks for the info Bram. Is there any way I can get a small amount of it? I only need about 8oz or smaller is sufficient. I just want to top off the reservoir for the h220x. I'm also in the SoCal area so I can easily pick it up.


----------



## M3TAl

If all you need to do is top it off then just add some distilled water. Any grocery store should sell it for ~$1 a gallon.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Thanks for the info Bram. Is there any way I can get a small amount of it? I only need about 8oz or smaller is sufficient. I just want to top off the reservoir for the h220x. I'm also in the SoCal area so I can easily pick it up.


As @M3TAI stated, you can just top it off with a little distilled water. That would be fine. I don't have any of this coolant here at the moment and we're really not set up for walk-ins. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Okay.... here you go.

I've just got mine, so unfortunately I can't install at this time since my CPU went to Intel for replacement and I'll get the replacement on next Thursday, so since then I guess I'll enjoy taking look at the rest of my system









have a question tho.... does H220X comes liquid already pre-filled? because there is no separate liquid with it so I assume it's already pre-filled? the reason I'm asking because it's no visible in reservoir, I guess its in tubs?


----------



## Dudewitbow

its prefilled for the people who just want to use it as a "Closed Loop" style cooler. Also saved them the trouble of having to bleed out the loop for users(as its probably the #1 problem that is brought up)


----------



## Mega Man

then i stand corrected sorry


----------



## SynchroSCP

GPU and 360 rad added to the loop! Also added an inline temp sensor so I can see the water temp (at the bottom of the case). Temps are pretty amazing so far with the Komodo-NV-LE and I double checked that the thermal pads make good contact with the VRM which they do, didn't need to use aftermarket thermal pads. The ones that come preinstalled are well setup and make good contact so VRM temps will not be an issue with this block.

Here's a look at the back of the H220-X, shows the swivel fittings which I left in place and the pump.


Sorry for the bad picture, have a G1/4 funnel screwed into the fill port. Used the bleed screw (very gently) in the res window to help get it filled, once the coolant level was above there used a syringe to top it off. Had to top it off again after about 4 hours into the leak test and will probably top it off once more after a few days use as the bubbles work their way into the res. Kinda dissapointed that the Hydra-PM2 coolant doesn't look blue in the res like I was hoping, more clear than anything. Hate to use dye to get blue, may go to hobby lobby and see if I can find a material to cover the res window so it looks blue like the rest of the build.


Replaced the cpu block fittings with compression fittings. Replaced all fans with Cougar Vortex PWM's, have 5 fans and the pump on the swiftech splitter which is a really nice bonus item in the H220-X kit as they all run off the same PWM signal.


All done, don't know why the Komodo LED's aren't working but looking into it. Coolant temp meter bottom right.


Haven't done a lot of testing but 20 minutes of running EVGA Scanner at 2560x1440 with 8X AA would have temps in the upper 70's or 80's with the stock cooler, mid 40's with the Komodo. Need to do some real stress testing with CPU and GPU at full so I can see what the delta actually is which I'll get to soon.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Thanks for the pic of the bottom of the unit. I have been looking for one to see what kind of fitting to buy for the res inlet. Is the pump's outlet fitting G 1/4? Or is it built into the pump? I read somewhere that an adapter was needed, so I figured it wasn't interchangeable. Nice work man, and excellent temps too!

Now I just have to get my hands on the H220X and I can get started.


----------



## SynchroSCP

An adapter is needed for the pump outlet which will be available soon from what I understand.

Ran an hour of Aida64 CPU and gpu stress...cpu 72 and gpu 44c, water temp went from 26 to 33c so about a 7c delta.

Playing BF4 multiplayer with fans and pump on pwm control got similar results, water temp went up to 35c but that's acceptable for lower noise.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> GPU and 360 rad added to the loop! Also added an inline temp sensor so I can see the water temp (at the bottom of the case). Temps are pretty amazing so far with the Komodo-NV-LE and I double checked that the thermal pads make good contact with the VRM which they do, didn't need to use aftermarket thermal pads. The ones that come preinstalled are well setup and make good contact so VRM temps will not be an issue with this block.
> 
> Here's a look at the back of the H220-X, shows the swivel fittings which I left in place and the pump.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad picture, have a G1/4 funnel screwed into the fill port. Used the bleed screw (very gently) in the res window to help get it filled, once the coolant level was above there used a syringe to top it off. Had to top it off again after about 4 hours into the leak test and will probably top it off once more after a few days use as the bubbles work their way into the res. Kinda dissapointed that the Hydra-PM2 coolant doesn't look blue in the res like I was hoping, more clear than anything. Hate to use dye to get blue, may go to hobby lobby and see if I can find a material to cover the res window so it looks blue like the rest of the build.
> 
> 
> Replaced the cpu block fittings with compression fittings. Replaced all fans with Cougar Vortex PWM's, have 5 fans and the pump on the swiftech splitter which is a really nice bonus item in the H220-X kit as they all run off the same PWM signal.
> 
> 
> All done, don't know why the Komodo LED's aren't working but looking into it. Coolant temp meter bottom right.
> 
> 
> Haven't done a lot of testing but 20 minutes of running EVGA Scanner at 2560x1440 with 8X AA would have temps in the upper 70's or 80's with the stock cooler, mid 40's with the Komodo. Need to do some real stress testing with CPU and GPU at full so I can see what the delta actually is which I'll get to soon.


Did you plug the LED into the GPU's PWM header?


----------



## Rakunvar

My luck knows no bounds... My few month old H220 died on me, and seems my CPU is damaged now. Had no clue what was going on and CPU temps were hitting 90-105C mark when board would shut off. Now the CPU BSOD's as much as ET loves skittles. The pump wasn't touched/changed in any way other then to check coolant when I received it, so glad I used my custom loop on my 780ti Kinpin cards instead of this...
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5m74yynpqi2cs6r/20140809_042659%20%281%29.mp4 <-Video of pump literally just stuck for the most part. That's only a small portion of the sludge/green-ish liquid that was in the pump before I poured a little more out and its incredible how much sludge there is.

And of course my lovely BSOD spam.




Did contact Swiftech and apparently they mentioned "repairing" the unit, but obviously its beyond repair, hoping I can just pay the difference or something for the 220x instead of risking this again.

Did also mention that in order for "case evaluation" of covering the other parts that" could have" been damaged I have to send in my board/cpu etc.. Which sounds like a quite risky idea honestly. So no clue what to do, just glad it didnt melt/smolder like a few 220's I've seen.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Cool, thanks for the confirmation. I can use the pump outlet the way it is cause I am going to be using 5/8 OD tubing with barbs and clamps anyways. I am debating whether to keep the CPU separate from the two GPUs, but it just feels incomplete that way. For stress testing those temps are good, what is you OC and voltage? I run 4.6 GHz at 1.223V on a 4670K and temps are pretty low for Haswell. The H100i actually does a pretty decent job of dissipating heat, but it isn't expandable. Fortunately I have a friend building a rig now that will take it off my hands for $70.

I am just not sure what to expect for temps when it all goes together. I will have two 770s and the 4670K with two 240mm rads and two pumps. I suppose if temps are high I could always separate the loop again. I have seen a few other users (Whiterice) run a similar setup though. Anyways, thanks for posting this info...


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Did you plug the LED into the GPU's PWM header?


Yes, and once I saw it wasn't working I took it out and apart to verify.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Cool, thanks for the confirmation. I can use the pump outlet the way it is cause I am going to be using 5/8 OD tubing with barbs and clamps anyways. I am debating whether to keep the CPU separate from the two GPUs, but it just feels incomplete that way. For stress testing those temps are good, what is you OC and voltage? I run 4.6 GHz at 1.223V on a 4670K and temps are pretty low for Haswell. The H100i actually does a pretty decent job of dissipating heat, but it isn't expandable. Fortunately I have a friend building a rig now that will take it off my hands for $70.
> 
> I am just not sure what to expect for temps when it all goes together. I will have two 770s and the 4670K with two 240mm rads and two pumps. I suppose if temps are high I could always separate the loop again. I have seen a few other users (Whiterice) run a similar setup though. Anyways, thanks for posting this info...


My 4790k is at 1.26 for 4.6, chip seems to run hot but I'm comparing it to SB. Have one core that is always 5C or so hotter than the rest.

There's been a lot of research into single vs split loops and in most cases there isn't a lot of benefit unless your running tri or quad gpu setups. Even for a 2-3C improvement, it wouldn't seem worth the cost and complexity. Your best bet is more rad somehow...assuming 115W or so for the 4670k and 2 * 230W for the 770's your looking at 575W+ total heat load. Two 240 rads with fans at 1400rpm only handle ~120W each so you'll have to either add more radiator space or crank the fans to keep up. To keep your delta reasonable you need to get around 80% (460W or so) capability in your loop.

Here's a good resource for estimating how much radiator you'll need.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Between the few fairly serious failures that I have seen and the fact that it hasnt been restocked this week (unless it sold out immediately-was told to check back Tuesday), I think I may do something else. Im torn between getting the cooler master and just building a custom a loop. But @Rakunvar's post has me concerned. That along with other failures and Swiftechs own warning about the fragile bleed screw...might be safer to go another direction, at least for me. I cant afford any component to be ruined because I took a huge reduction in salary. It was hard pulling together the $ for my r9 290.


----------



## Dudewitbow

If price is an issue, watercooling in any front is not a very optimal choice in any matter. Just choosing the option of watercooling already tacks in more maintenance compared to air cooling(as well as WC is costlier)


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Yes, and once I saw it wasn't working I took it out and apart to verify.


Maybe the fan doesn't kick on until a certain percentage, which would keep the LED from powering. Try turning the GPU fan to 100% via Speedfan or something similar.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Between the few fairly serious failures that I have seen and the fact that it hasnt been restocked this week (unless it sold out immediately-was told to check back Tuesday), I think I may do something else. Im torn between getting the cooler master and just building a custom a loop. But @Rakunvar's post has me concerned. That along with other failures and Swiftechs own warning about the fragile bleed screw...might be safer to go another direction, at least for me. I cant afford any component to be ruined because I took a huge reduction in salary. It was hard pulling together the $ for my r9 290.


Rakunvar's was an H220, not a 220X. It is unfortunate that his quit out, but I'm curious why the CPU didn't shut down once it reached the temp limit like it's supposed to.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> My 4790k is at 1.26 for 4.6, chip seems to run hot but I'm comparing it to SB. Have one core that is always 5C or so hotter than the rest.
> 
> There's been a lot of research into single vs split loops and in most cases there isn't a lot of benefit unless your running tri or quad gpu setups. Even for a 2-3C improvement, it wouldn't seem worth the cost and complexity. Your best bet is more rad somehow...assuming 115W or so for the 4670k and 2 * 230W for the 770's your looking at 575W+ total heat load. Two 240 rads with fans at 1400rpm only handle ~120W each so you'll have to either add more radiator space or crank the fans to keep up. To keep your delta reasonable you need to get around 80% (460W or so) capability in your loop.
> 
> Here's a good resource for estimating how much radiator you'll need.


Thanks for that link! I am pretty close to the 60% (345W) mark with the two 240mm rads. I run an XT45 in the front with push pull, and all the fans are linked to the water temp sensor with a custom profile. They are SP120 Performance on the inside and NF A14's on the outside, so maybe 1800 RPMs average between the two at max temps. And the Swiftech H220x would inherit the two SP120 Performance editions that are on my H100i now. So I am looking at 384W of dissipation between the two at 1800 RPMs. Granted I probably should have another rad, but space is severely limited in the Corsair 350D. But that is all part of the fun and challenge of making this work. I think I'll go for it, the extra flow associated with having both pumps in series can only help the temps too. Right now the EK 2.2 is likely only putting out 0.5 GPM, but that should improve (along with temps to an extent) with the addition of the extra pump. I know extra flow doesn't improve temps much, but limited or restricted flow only makes temps worse.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

I'm curious if any of you H220X owners this far have encountered any issues with the unit yet? because I read some screw bleeding thing issue with H220X, I just want to clarify if any of you have/had issues with the unit? I've the unit myself but I can't install it yet since I don't have my CPU yet, gotta wait it to come next week before I'll be able to install this. And besides this question I've another a few

1. if I want to expand the unit I would also need to buy separate liquid(sorry I can't remember the technical term of that) since once I take off the tubes I'll have the liquid wasted right?

2. all I'd need to expand would be 3/8 x 5/8 tubes along with same size of G 1/4 compressor fittings right?

thanks.


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Maybe the fan doesn't kick on until a certain percentage, which would keep the LED from powering. Try turning the GPU fan to 100% via Speedfan or something similar.
> Rakunvar's was an H220, not a 220X. It is unfortunate that his quit out, but I'm curious why the CPU didn't shut down once it reached the temp limit like it's supposed to.


It was indeed a h220 and I did mention once it hit the 105c "TJ max" it did indeed shutdown. And it did so about 3 times till I realized the pump was dead.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Thanks for that link! I am pretty close to the 60% (345W) mark with the two 240mm rads. I run an XT45 in the front with push pull, and all the fans are linked to the water temp sensor with a custom profile. They are SP120 Performance on the inside and NF A14's on the outside, so maybe 1800 RPMs average between the two at max temps. And the Swiftech H220x would inherit the two SP120 Performance editions that are on my H100i now. So I am looking at 384W of dissipation between the two at 1800 RPMs. Granted I probably should have another rad, but space is severely limited in the Corsair 350D. But that is all part of the fun and challenge of making this work. I think I'll go for it, the extra flow associated with having both pumps in series can only help the temps too. Right now the EK 2.2 is likely only putting out 0.5 GPM, but that should improve (along with temps to an extent) with the addition of the extra pump. I know extra flow doesn't improve temps much, but limited or restricted flow only makes temps worse.


Sounds like you have it figured out, nice! There's always the external option . I'm always on the verge of buying an Aquaduct or Gigant, if I had a real reason...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> I'm curious if any of you H220X owners this far have encountered any issues with the unit yet? because I read some screw bleeding thing issue with H220X, I just want to clarify if any of you have/had issues with the unit? I've the unit myself but I can't install it yet since I don't have my CPU yet, gotta wait it to come next week before I'll be able to install this. And besides this question I've another a few
> 
> 1. if I want to expand the unit I would also need to buy separate liquid(sorry I can't remember the technical term of that) since once I take off the tubes I'll have the liquid wasted right?
> 
> 2. all I'd need to expand would be 3/8 x 5/8 tubes along with same size of G 1/4 compressor fittings right?
> 
> thanks.


No problems so far, bleed screw wasn't that big of a deal...should be fairly obvious not to crank a metal screw in an acrylic window.
1. Just recapture what you can to reuse and top it off with distiller water.
2. Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Maybe the fan doesn't kick on until a certain percentage, which would keep the LED from powering. Try turning the GPU fan to 100% via Speedfan or something similar.


Good idea and did try that - no go. The LED header is different than the fan header which is pointed out in the directions and you can see in the HTL review. Wonder if that is significant.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Did you plug the LED into the GPU's PWM header?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, and once I saw it wasn't working I took it out and apart to verify.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Yes, and once I saw it wasn't working I took it out and apart to verify.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the fan doesn't kick on until a certain percentage, which would keep the LED from powering. Try turning the GPU fan to 100% via Speedfan or something similar.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Between the few fairly serious failures that I have seen and the fact that it hasnt been restocked this week (unless it sold out immediately-was told to check back Tuesday), I think I may do something else. Im torn between getting the cooler master and just building a custom a loop. But @Rakunvar's post has me concerned. That along with other failures and Swiftechs own warning about the fragile bleed screw...might be safer to go another direction, at least for me. I cant afford any component to be ruined because I took a huge reduction in salary. It was hard pulling together the $ for my r9 290.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Rakunvar's was an H220, not a 220X. It is unfortunate that his quit out, but I'm curious why the CPU didn't shut down once it reached the temp limit like it's supposed to.
Click to expand...

The fan header on the board has nothing to do with the LED there is another header foe the LED it self where the stock cooling led is connected.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> The fan header on the board has nothing to do with the LED there is another header foe the LED it self where the stock cooling led is connected.


Thanks, that's what I figured. The stock cooler didn't have an led so I'm curious if it is disabled or something.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Sounds like you have it figured out, nice! There's always the external option . I'm always on the verge of buying an Aquaduct or Gigant, if I had a real reason...
> No problems so far, bleed screw wasn't that big of a deal...should be fairly obvious not to crank a metal screw in an acrylic window.
> 1. Just recapture what you can to reuse and top it off with distiller water.
> 2. Yes
> Good idea and did try that - no go. The LED header is different than the fan header which is pointed out in the directions and you can see in the HTL review. Wonder if that is significant.


Thanks for heads up mate, can't wait for my damn CPU to arrive to put this thing in test


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The fan header on the board has nothing to do with the LED there is another header foe the LED it self where the stock cooling led is connected.


Reference 290(X) cards don't have LEDs. So that can't be it. The LEDs have to be powered elsewhere.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Sounds like you have it figured out, nice! There's always the external option . I'm always on the verge of buying an Aquaduct or Gigant, if I had a real reason...


I was actually thinking of using a 250D (or similar sized case) as a rad box for two 240mm rads set to exhaust out each side, a single 140mm intake fan, and the pump/ res. I don't think it will be necessary, but it was an idea I had. I think since I already have my OC set and I don't plan to do any serious stress testing any time soon, the two 240mm rads will be fine for gaming and occasional benchmarking. I really pushed the H100i to its limits with Linpack and IBT runs on extreme. I think I have found my CPUs limit at 4.8 and I don't plan to push any further. I will post my setup when the H220X becomes available. I am liking the idea of running two pumps in case the other ever fails. Thanks for the input BTW! +Rep


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I was actually thinking of using a 250D (or similar sized case) as a rad box for two 240mm rads set to exhaust out each side, a single 140mm intake fan, and the pump/ res. I don't think it will be necessary, but it was an idea I had. I think since I already have my OC set and I don't plan to do any serious stress testing any time soon, the two 240mm rads will be fine for gaming and occasional benchmarking. I really pushed the H100i to its limits with Linpack and IBT runs on extreme. I think I have found my CPUs limit at 4.8 and I don't plan to push any further. I will post my setup when the H220X becomes available. I am liking the idea of running two pumps in case the other ever fails. Thanks for the input BTW! +Rep


Thanks bud. I love the idea of external cooling but have never done it. The desk unit I have my pc in has a 36x42 two shelf cubby with nothing in it and my mind wanders about the possibilities. Please share pics if you do.


----------



## speedy2721

Is there a way to fit the 240L in the NZXT Tempest 410? I doesn't seem to be fitting on the top because the radiator hits the motherboard.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The fan header on the board has nothing to do with the LED there is another header foe the LED it self where the stock cooling led is connected.
> 
> 
> 
> Reference 290(X) cards don't have LEDs. So that can't be it. The LEDs have to be powered elsewhere.
Click to expand...

Sorry I thought he had a 780


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Sounds like you have it figured out, nice! There's always the external option . I'm always on the verge of buying an Aquaduct or Gigant, if I had a real reason...
> No problems so far, bleed screw wasn't that big of a deal...should be fairly obvious not to crank a metal screw in an acrylic window.
> 1. Just recapture what you can to reuse and top it off with distiller water.
> 2. Yes
> Good idea and did try that - no go. The LED header is different than the fan header which is pointed out in the directions and you can see in the HTL review. Wonder if that is significant.


Are you trying to plug the GPU block LED into the motherboard or the GPU board? Every Komodo I had powered the LED via the fan plug on the GPU.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedy2721*
> 
> Is there a way to fit the 240L in the NZXT Tempest 410? I doesn't seem to be fitting on the top because the radiator hits the motherboard.


are you trying to fit it all inside, I would think fitting the fans outside would give you room


----------



## NIK1

Anyone ever test pump and fan rpm speeds. What's the best speed to run for intense gameing,video editing, down to like normal web browsing Just curious what others run..


----------



## Gabkicks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone ever test pump and fan rpm speeds. What's the best speed to run for intense gameing,video editing, down to like normal web browsing Just curious what others run..


here is what my current fan profile looks like,


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Thanks bud. I love the idea of external cooling but have never done it. The desk unit I have my pc in has a 36x42 two shelf cubby with nothing in it and my mind wanders about the possibilities. Please share pics if you do.


I am going to go step by step, but an exterior rad box is a back up option. I had a question about controlling the pump. Can it be run at full speed by not connecting the 4 pin connector? My MBs PWM headers are only the CPU and CPU_OPT headers. The rest are 4 pin, but use voltage control and not PWM control. So I suppose I could hook the pump into the OPT header to get a rpm reading and split the two rad fans off the CPU header, or vice versa. I could also use the 8 splitter they supply to hook all three into the CPU header, but I would like to try to get both the fan's and the pump's RPMs to be displayed in FanXpert.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you trying to plug the GPU block LED into the motherboard or the GPU board? Every Komodo I had powered the LED via the fan plug on the GPU.


No, there are 2 headers on the 780ti...fan and led


----------



## sdmf74

I have been away for a minute, have we heard anything about MCP50X extras yet????


----------



## Martinm210

Just thinking.
How about a high speed premium option with gentle typhoon AP-30s PWM modded and the mcp50x.

Not sure the extra flow would matter much, but the AP-30s would make good numbers for those less interested in silence and all about max cooling. Might be too noisy at slow speeds though.


----------



## BenJaminJr

The h220x rad has low fpi...fast fans won't really improve Temps that much


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> No, there are 2 headers on the 780ti...fan and led


Did you try plugging the Komodo block's LED into the fan header? That's what I mean. On my 7970 Komodo the LED was powered by the GPU's fan header, because the LED is 12v. The Nvidia LED header may not be 12v.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just thinking.
> How about a high speed premium option with gentle typhoon AP-30s PWM modded and the mcp50x.
> 
> Not sure the extra flow would matter much, but the AP-30s would make good numbers for those less interested in silence and all about max cooling. Might be too noisy at slow speeds though.


I hear your a bit low on time but a stock h220 VS h220 (with mcp50x) VS the apogee drive 2 would be awesome























Im debating if its worth putting the mcp50x in my current h220 or just getting the AD2, Im planning my next build to be itx so the space savings is a bonus with this style; heck even with the matx builds its been a great convenience!

-edit.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I hear your a bit low on time but an h220 (with mcp50x) VS the apogee drive 2 would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im debating if its worth putting the mcp50x in my current h220 or just getting the AD2, Im planning my next build to be itx so the space savings is a bonus with this style; heck even with the matx builds its been a great convenience!


Will be 0% difference in most builds because they both use the Apogee HD base. It would take several components in the loop for the pressure difference to substantiate in temperatures.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be 0% difference in most builds because they both use the Apogee HD base. It would take several components in the loop for the pressure difference to substantiate in temperatures.


You think even in something like my build with cpu, gpu, and a 240mm(well currently 180mm)? I just run my h220 at 100% non stop since its not loud and can see 1-2c from 1500rpm to 3000rpm. Have always wondered what another 1000rpm would do, I have this goal of keeping my gtx770 under 40c while gaming at 1.33v for some reason lol kind of like the unrational goal of building an 800hp street car







Although I would think the 800hp is more rational lol

edit:
its usually at 42-43c when bf4 multiplayer gaming so think its because im so close to 39c I want it haha. Only time its at 39c is in the winter. I likely just need more radiator though


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> You think even in something like my build with cpu, gpu, and a 240mm(well currently 180mm)? I just run my h220 at 100% non stop since its not loud and can see 1-2c from 1500rpm to 3000rpm. Have always wondered what another 1000rpm would do, I have this goal of keeping my gtx770 under 40c while gaming at 1.33v for some reason lol kind of like the unrational goal of building an 800hp street car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I would think the 800hp is more rational lol
> 
> edit:
> its usually at 42-43c when bf4 multiplayer gaming so think its because im so close to 39c I want it haha. Only time its at 39c is in the winter. I likely just need more radiator though


Either could show a difference in temps compared to a stock H220; I was comparing and H220 with an MCP50X in place of the stock pump to the APD2.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Either could show a difference in temps compared to a stock H220; I was comparing and H220 with an MCP50X in place of the stock pump to the APD2.


Oh yeah I didnt make that too clear, I forgot to throw in stock h220 into that mix...will have to edit that. Guess its good to know the mcp50x on an h220 should at least perform as good as the AD2.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> The h220x rad has low fpi...fast fans won't really improve Temps that much


Depends on heat loads, I could see a pretty big difference running a 3930k heavily clocked or someone trying to do cpu plus gpu.

Also despite low FPi more air in the QP will net good gains. This is what I got on the 320qp which the 220x core was derived from:










1800RPM heat dissipated is around 220W
2500RPM heat dissipated is around 270W

GTs have a much better pressure curve than helix so then net more air per RPM (probably equal at 3-400rpm slower speeds). I bet with AP 30s you would see around 320W on a 320QP.

In other words you could get 320x like performance with the smaller 220 rad package.

That may only be a few degrees on a hot CPU, but few degrees is pretty significant when looking at comparisons between top AIO coolers.

Also it would make CPU + GPU more viable on the 220 kit where currently on my 3930, I wouldn't dare add GPU without more rad.

We can probably also use this to assume pump differences from strens awesome work.










I measured the h220 only producing around 0.6gpm and if you look at the apogee HD there is a fairly dramatic difference from .5gpm to 1 gpm by about 4 degrees.

Seems a little too good to be true but if you added 3 degree due to fan performance and another 3 for flow rate, that might be a pretty noteworthy gain. Of coarse it's all speculation based on my H220 testing, supposedly the 220x has had some improvements in flow, but fans are much the same I believe.

If I was going to wager, I'd bet on a 4-5 degree benefit on a very hot 3930k or CPU + GPU setup.
All speculation but seems plausible. Better yet, use the XP radiator dense core and you'd have even bigger gains.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Oh yeah I didnt make that too clear, I forgot to throw in stock h220 into that mix...will have to edit that. Guess its good to know the mcp50x on an h220 should at least perform as good as the AD2.


yep. Pump and fitting differences aside, they are the same product.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just thinking.
> How about a high speed premium option with gentle typhoon AP-30s PWM modded and the mcp50x.
> 
> Not sure the extra flow would matter much, but the AP-30s would make good numbers for those less interested in silence and all about max cooling. Might be too noisy at slow speeds though.


That be me, I have 4 AP29PWM's and 2 AP30PWM's. Not too terribly bad @ low rpm's. At the moment not running the AP30pwm's though. Might let em go


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Maybe the fan doesn't kick on until a certain percentage, which would keep the LED from powering. Try turning the GPU fan to 100% via Speedfan or something similar.
> Rakunvar's was an H220, not a 220X. It is unfortunate that his quit out, but I'm curious why the CPU didn't shut down once it reached the temp limit like it's supposed to.


Good point RE: Shutdown. But I have to tell you, when I was OC'ing my FX 8350 on my ASUS M5A97 R2.0 mobo, I went straight over the heat limit with no shutdown. I dont know why either. It seems that once I hit high temps the mobo just tells the cpu cooler to go full speed. Thats fine, but its not a stock cooler (the corsair h60) and runs at its "full" speed constantly; power to the unit seems to only run the fan at one speed. So when the mobo thought it was increasing the speed, it wasnt. Now, with the stock cooler it will give it some time, after increasing the the fan speed, to allow temps to come down. But maybe Im wrong about how and when it performs the shutdown. This was a long time ago.

But it helps to know that that was the 220 and not the 220x. Maybe I will keep the 220x in the running if it comes back in stock anytime soon. I really need to get this h60 out and something else in ASAP. So if they dont come in this week I will be really torn. Especially because I have seen tests that show the 220x keeping the best temps and the lowest noise.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Heu guys I have seen that my glacer 240 has a noise a bit annoying,it is like a flowing sound but here you have a recording

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5mngBW9gJZAUG5yaUZBQ3c0RGM/edit?usp=sharing

@CM MR HAF


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Guys, I'm thinking of purchasing an extra radiator to pare with my H220X and this way I'll be comfortable water-cooling my GPU too, so I was looking for some rads on FrozenCPU(btw is there any better place to buy watercooling related stuff?)

so I found these rads 3x 120mm vs 3x 140mm vs 3x 180mm

so I'm assuming 3x 180mm is gotta be better than the rest is that correct? if so, then what do you think of this radiator, do you think it's worth it or pharaps I should look into 140 and 120mm rads or other brand? please help me make up my mind.

edit: after doing a bit research I note that there are 140mm thick and thin radiators, I wonder how does this thickness reflect to heat dissipation in real life experience? I'd assume thickness would help to dissipate the heat quicker?

I'm sorry I never done any water cooling nor I've any knowledge about it, so that's why I'm trying to gather some info from guys who've done it. thanks


----------



## Jawswing

Anyone got any idea what the ETA is on a replacement H220? With B A C A T Á?
I sent mine off on the 13th of June. So it's been two months now.

I never got any confirmation to say it had arrived (I emailed them to confirm if they had it).

The last emailed I'd received from them were on the 1st of July (after I asked for an ETA). Stating:

'Hi, we are still waiting for the new kit from Swiftech&#8230; ASAP I have a feedback I will let you know'.

And I sent another email on the 24th of July and one last week sometime to no reply at all yet.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Heu guys I have seen that my glacer 240 has a noise a bit annoying,it is like a flowing sound but here you have a recording
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5mngBW9gJZAUG5yaUZBQ3c0RGM/edit?usp=sharing
> 
> @CM MR HAF


Have you tried the suggestions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Give those a try and if they don't help you then please PM me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> Anyone got any idea what the ETA is on a replacement H220? With B A C A T Á?
> I sent mine off on the 13th of June. So it's been two months now.
> 
> I never got any confirmation to say it had arrived (I emailed them to confirm if they had it).
> 
> The last emailed I'd received from them were on the 1st of July (after I asked for an ETA). Stating:
> 
> 'Hi, we are still waiting for the new kit from Swiftech&#8230; ASAP I have a feedback I will let you know'.
> 
> And I sent another email on the 24th of July and one last week sometime to no reply at all yet.


We've been having some communication issues with Bacata recently due to an issue that they're having with their exchange server. They should have replacement kits now, or within the next couple of days. You should receive a shipping confirmation and tracking number shortly though. Please PM me if you don't hear anything in the next 48 hours.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried the suggestions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Give those a try and if they don't help you then please PM me.
> We've been having some communication issues with Bacata recently due to an issue that they're having with their exchange server. They should have replacement kits now, or within the next couple of days. You should receive a shipping confirmation and tracking number shortly though. Please PM me if you don't hear anything in the 48 hours.


thanks for the reply,I will try it in 2 days because I have just re installed my heatsink,I will report what happened.I think this happens because I flushed the rad,CM was a really clean coolant maybe in.the future people with CM doesnt need to flush the radiator,they dont use same coolant as swiftech


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Guys, I'm thinking of purchasing an extra radiator to pare with my H220X and this way I'll be comfortable water-cooling my GPU too, so I was looking for some rads on FrozenCPU(btw is there any better place to buy watercooling related stuff?)
> 
> so I found these rads 3x 120mm vs 3x 140mm vs 3x 180mm
> 
> so I'm assuming 3x 180mm is gotta be better than the rest is that correct? if so, then what do you think of this radiator, do you think it's worth it or pharaps I should look into 140 and 120mm rads or other brand? please help me make up my mind.
> 
> edit: after doing a bit research I note that there are 140mm thick and thin radiators, I wonder how does this thickness reflect to heat dissipation in real life experience? I'd assume thickness would help to dissipate the heat quicker?
> 
> I'm sorry I never done any water cooling nor I've any knowledge about it, so that's why I'm trying to gather some info from guys who've done it. thanks


You may want to continue your research. Also what size rad can your case fit? Thicker is usually better (that's what she said)


----------



## BangBangPlay

@RetiredAssassin
SynchroSPC turned me on to this thread/link and the info and spreadsheets are excellent for figuring out what rads you need and how much heat they dissipate.

Here's a good resource for estimating how much radiator you'll need.

Just remember if you under estimate then you'll have to run your fans faster and you'll have a noisier system. If you get enough rads you can dissipate the heat with slower fans and have a more silent system. I have had excellent results with an Alphacool Nexxxos full copper rad. One 240mm (x45mm thick) cools both my 770s very well. The fins per inch is worth paying attention along with the thickness because both will effect your average fan speed and heat dissipation.


----------



## djangomatic82

Hello all, I have recently bought a H220 and am having a problem with it leaking coolant from between the cold plate and pump housing. When I uninstalled the pump from my mobo and looked at the seem above the cold plate, I am actually able too see some light come through from the other side along a few spots. Has anyone else received a unit with similar problem and if so, is there a way too fix it, or am I better off just sending it in for an RMA?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djangomatic82*
> 
> Hello all, I have recently bought a H220 and am having a problem with it leaking coolant from between the cold plate and pump housing. When I uninstalled the pump from my mobo and looked at the seem above the cold plate, I am actually able too see some light come through from the other side along a few spots. Has anyone else received a unit with similar problem and if so, is there a way too fix it, or am I better off just sending it in for an RMA?


I would contact Bryan to get the OK from him to drain it, disassemble it and re-seat the O-ring. It sounds like that's where the leak is at. You can save, filter, and reuse the existing coolant in the drain process if you want, then use distilled water to top off the difference. That would be the quick, easy, pertinent fix.


----------



## Rakunvar

Well, today I guess I'll hopefully hear something about what I'm supposed to do with these parts and the dead H220. Cant even count the BSOD's I've had since it happened now honestly. Only way I can get some limitation of the BSOD's was to remove the K(OC ability), remove the C stepings, and remove the dynamic intel turbo boost so not sure what really happened to it.


----------



## Kyashan

New review of the Swiftech H220x by TechPowerUp








Regards
Quote:


> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H220-X/


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you tried the suggestions in the OP for removing air from the pump? Give those a try and if they don't help you then please PM me.
> We've been having some communication issues with Bacata recently due to an issue that they're having with their exchange server. They should have replacement kits now, or within the next couple of days. You should receive a shipping confirmation and tracking number shortly though. Please PM me if you don't hear anything in the next 48 hours.


Nothing to do with this convo,but were you ever to find out when more will be in stock? i have been waiting and check every single day if it is listed. Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Nothing to do with this convo,but were you ever to find out when more will be in stock? i have been waiting and check every single day if it is listed. Thanks


The H220X kits will be in stock again in the next couple of days or so. We're waiting for our factory to ship the next batch right now, and we're hoping to have it by the end of the week. I'll try to post here once I know for certain when they'll be arriving.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220X kits will be in stock again in the next couple of days or so. We're waiting for our factory to ship the next batch right now, and we're hoping to have it by the end of the week. I'll try to post here once I know for certain when they'll be arriving.


Maybe shoot me a PM first before you post that info here







. Just kidding! No seriously though... this anticipation is killing me and I am usually very patient when it comes to technology. I feel like Cartman waiting for the Nintendo Wii...


----------



## springs113

Is anyone having bleeding(air) issues with the 220x... I think i bled my system correctly only to move my computer around and bam...bubble gushing. I want to finish my build to the T so to speak and this is annoying me. I do have everything hooked up and installed windows as this was with a new mobo gigabyte g1 wifi and I am currently running everything with no fan what so ever and my temps are low cpu idles in the low 30c and gpu low teens. I am running with a nexxos ut45 i think 420 rad, 360 nemesis and the 220x's rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Is anyone having bleeding(air) issues with the 220x... I think i bled my system correctly only to move my computer around and bam...bubble gushing. I want to finish my build to the T so to speak and this is annoying me. I do have everything hooked up and installed windows as this was with a new mobo gigabyte g1 wifi and I am currently running everything with no fan what so ever and my temps are low cpu idles in the low 30c and gpu low teens. I am running with a nexxos ut45 i think 420 rad, 360 nemesis and the 220x's rad.


If this occurred after you moved your case then there's like still some air in the loop that you haven't bled out yet. It can take a few hours to a day or longer to completely bleed a custom loop.


----------



## SynchroSCP

It helps to move the case around a bit, tip it about 45 degrees in each direction for a minute or two. This helps the air move out of the system, just watch the bleed hole for drips. Took me about a day or so to get it fully bled out. If your using a premixed coolant those can be more difficult to bleed as well as they take a little longer to settle and let the bubbles out.


----------



## Sickened1

Just had my second h220 pump failure. This one did last longer than the first though. I sent an email to the RMA email, hopefully I can get this replaced soon, I start school in less than 2 weeks!


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> New review of the Swiftech H220x by TechPowerUp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards


Thanks. Now if they just get them back in stock ever we may just order them. Its 7 days past the day they told me it should be in-stock. Im waiting until Friday and then if it still isnt available Im going with my plan B.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If this occurred after you moved your case then there's like still some air in the loop that you haven't bled out yet. It can take a few hours to a day or longer to completely bleed a custom loop.


Hi there, I'd like to get your opinion on something that I'm trying to do, as I stated before I've H220X, my other specs are ROG VII Formula and 780Ti classified, so my question would be, do you think H220X with its own radiator is enough to cool 780Ti classified using an _EK water block_ along with the CPU of course? do you think I'd get lower temps on my gpu compared to what I'm getting on air? which is 33-34 at idle, my concern is that this 240mm rad might not be enough to manage to dissipate the heat for both CPU and GPU without an additional radiator, what's your take on this? thanks.


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sickened1*
> 
> Just had my second h220 pump failure. This one did last longer than the first though. I sent an email to the RMA email, hopefully I can get this replaced soon, I start school in less than 2 weeks!


Curiosly how did your's fail? Just went through mine failing and screwing up my CPU.


----------



## NasaGT

@BramSLI1
Hi,
what is about the H220-X for Europe especially for Germany?
Until when do we have to wait??

I really want the H220-X but i don't want to import it from the USA...

And when are the H320X available in USA and when in EU / Germany?
My Pantheks Enthoo Luxe wil have enough place for the 3x 120mm version...


----------



## Spectre-

My H320


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Hi there, I'd like to get your opinion on something that I'm trying to do, as I stated before I've H220X, my other specs are ROG VII Formula and 780Ti classified, so my question would be, do you think H220X with its own radiator is enough to cool 780Ti classified using an _EK water block_ along with the CPU of course? do you think I'd get lower temps on my gpu compared to what I'm getting on air? which is 33-34 at idle, my concern is that this 240mm rad might not be enough to manage to dissipate the heat for both CPU and GPU without an additional radiator, what's your take on this? thanks.


That would be really pushing it, with cpu/gpu/mobo blocks your system would be putting out over 400watts while a 240 radiator is only able to remove 100-140 watts depending on fans, etc. Throw another radiator in there, a 280 or 360 would be best and you'll be good to go.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You'll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You'll also want your pump running while you're doing this.
> 
> Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.
> 
> If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don't end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.
> 
> These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour or more before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water.


in the first step do I have to connect the pump/block to the cpu?
On the second step does the radiator have to be attached to the case,right?
And filling a bit that radiator has to be with the pump off?

Thanks


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Hi there, I'd like to get your opinion on something that I'm trying to do, as I stated before I've H220X, my other specs are ROG VII Formula and 780Ti classified, so my question would be, do you think H220X with its own radiator is enough to cool 780Ti classified using an _EK water block_ along with the CPU of course? do you think I'd get lower temps on my gpu compared to what I'm getting on air? which is 33-34 at idle, my concern is that this 240mm rad might not be enough to manage to dissipate the heat for both CPU and GPU without an additional radiator, what's your take on this? thanks.


It could easily be done and functional. The temps on your CPU and GPU would generally be lower than air cooling but they would be high in comparison to the same loop with additional rad space. Keep in mind your CPU temps will go up, which could affect your OC if you have it pushed extremely high. How many volts you run through the 780Ti will have a direct influence on your temps, but if you use the same on it as what is on there now with the air cooler, it shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> That would be really pushing it, with cpu/gpu/mobo blocks your system would be putting out over 400watts while a 240 radiator is only able to remove 100-140 watts depending on fans, etc. Throw another radiator in there, a 280 or 360 would be best and you'll be good to go.


I agree with his.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Hi there, I'd like to get your opinion on something that I'm trying to do, as I stated before I've H220X, my other specs are ROG VII Formula and 780Ti classified, so my question would be, do you think H220X with its own radiator is enough to cool 780Ti classified using an _EK water block_ along with the CPU of course? do you think I'd get lower temps on my gpu compared to what I'm getting on air? which is 33-34 at idle, my concern is that this 240mm rad might not be enough to manage to dissipate the heat for both CPU and GPU without an additional radiator, what's your take on this? thanks.


Idle temperatures really aren't going to change much from going from air to water. It's your load temps that will improve though. How much is hard to say because you're not giving your load temperatures or your ambient temperature.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> Hi,
> what is about the H220-X for Europe especially for Germany?
> Until when do we have to wait??
> 
> I really want the H220-X but i don't want to import it from the USA...
> 
> And when are the H320X available in USA and when in EU / Germany?
> My Pantheks Enthoo Luxe wil have enough place for the 3x 120mm version...


You can purchase the H220-X directly from our website once we have them back in stock. They should be available in Europe in the next 2 to 3 weeks though, if not sooner. We have no plans or intention of releasing an H320-X version of this kit. This is due to the fact that the reservoir and pump sit under the radiator now and a 320 version would protrude too far into the optical drive bays and thus make many case incompatible with a kit of that kind.


----------



## NasaGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> [...]
> You can purchase the H220-X directly from our website once we have them back in stock. They should be available in Europe in the next 2 to 3 weeks though, if not sooner. We have no plans or intention of releasing an H320-X version of this kit. This is due to the fact that the reservoir and pump sit under the radiator now and a 320 version would protrude too far into the optical drive bays and thus make many case incompatible with a kit of that kind.


What if I buy the H220-X in the USA and after some time it stops working good, when the H220-X arive EU, can i use the European Support, or do I have to send it back to the USA Swiftech for support?

And in a few (2 - 3) weeks??

In a german forum (Hardwareluxx) an Swiftech Supporter told, that they will arrive in the first week of August (last week...)
so now what is true?


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Hi again Benjamin,
> 
> Unfortunately I'm quite busy right now with other things that I've been tasked with currently and I'm the only person here that works on building these replacement kits. It's therefore going to take me a couple of weeks to send out your replacement. I'm sorry about that and thank your for your patience.
> 
> Regards,
> Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team


Seriously? It's already been a week and a half. I love Swiftech and all, but a month turnaround seems excessive.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> That would be really pushing it, with cpu/gpu/mobo blocks your system would be putting out over 400watts while a 240 radiator is only able to remove 100-140 watts depending on fans, etc. Throw another radiator in there, a 280 or 360 would be best and you'll be good to go.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It could easily be done and functional. The temps on your CPU and GPU would generally be lower than air cooling but they would be high in comparison to the same loop with additional rad space. Keep in mind your CPU temps will go up, which could affect your OC if you have it pushed extremely high. How many volts you run through the 780Ti will have a direct influence on your temps, but if you use the same on it as what is on there now with the air cooler, it shouldn't be an issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Idle temperatures really aren't going to change much from going from air to water. It's your load temps that will improve though. How much is hard to say because you're not giving your load temperatures or your ambient temperature.
> You can purchase the H220-X directly from our website once we have them back in stock. They should be available in Europe in the next 2 to 3 weeks though, if not sooner. We have no plans or intention of releasing an H320-X version of this kit. This is due to the fact that the reservoir and pump sit under the radiator now and a 320 version would protrude too far into the optical drive bays and thus make many case incompatible with a kit of that kind.


Well, thanks for responses guys







I guess I'd need to wait to get another radiator to add this GPU water unit as well, because if I water cool both of them I'd expect to OC both of them as well... and since my GPU is classifeid which es unlocked it's alone I guess can push this loop to its limits... probably I'd wait to get some 3x 120mm rad then get EK water block to get proper heat dissipation out of it.

thanks again


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> in the first step do I have to connect the pump/block to the cpu?
> On the second step does the radiator have to be attached to the case,right?
> And filling a bit that radiator has to be with the pump off?
> 
> Thanks


@BramSLI1

Just I need to clear these points,thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Seriously? It's already been a week and a half. I love Swiftech and all, but a month turnaround seems excessive.


I'm doing the best that I can and I'll try to have this out to you by the end of the week. The issue is that our test equipment that I use for testing replacement kits has been repurposed at the moment, but I should have it back tomorrow. I'm sorry for this delay and thank you for your patience.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

@BramSLI1

guys could anybody make a recommendation what would be ideal/better fans to replace with stock fans that come with H220X?

like would higher RPM fans do better job or higher CFM or even static pressure fans? how do I figure out which type of custom fans would do better job than stock ones it comes with? thanks


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> guys could anybody make a recommendation what would be ideal/better fans to replace with stock fans that come with H220X?
> 
> like would higher RPM fans do better job or higher CFM or even static pressure fans? how do I figure out which type of custom fans would do better job than stock ones it comes with? thanks


if you want to keep low noise
NoiseBlocker eloop B12-P or Noctua NF F12 scythe glidestream
IF you want more performance with more noise
http://koolance.com/fan-120x25mm-108cfm
Or Delta Fans


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> if you want to keep low noise
> NoiseBlocker eloop B12-P or Noctua NF F12 scythe glidestream
> IF you want more performance with more noise
> http://koolance.com/fan-120x25mm-108cfm
> Or Delta Fans


thanks for that







the fun I'm looking for MUST be PWM fan so I can control the speed otherwise I'll go nuts, my case is H440 so I can't put any fan controller, the only way to control the speed gotta be through PWM fans.

I've since then crossed out Delta fans because they are too loud, but guess what? while I was doing research I realized there are even Delta fans with PWM, so I found this fan, do you think two of these would complement H220X just fine?

_this is the fan I'm talking about_ and I also wonder what do you think of _this one_ over Delta?


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the fun I'm looking for MUST be PWM fan so I can control the speed otherwise I'll go nuts, my case is H440 so I can't put any fan controller, the only way to control the speed gotta be through PWM fans.
> 
> I've since then crossed out Delta fans because they are too loud, but guess what? while I was doing research I realized there are even Delta fans with PWM, so I found this fan, do you think two of these would complement H220X just fine?
> 
> _this is the fan I'm talking about_ and I also wonder what do you think of _this one_ over Delta?


I would buy the delta if it has more static pressure but peoole says that low fpi(fins per inch) radiators are fine with low speed fans due to the low resistence to the airflow/pressure


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> guys could anybody make a recommendation what would be ideal/better fans to replace with stock fans that come with H220X?
> 
> like would higher RPM fans do better job or higher CFM or even static pressure fans? how do I figure out which type of custom fans would do better job than stock ones it comes with? thanks


If you plan to control the pump and fans using their PWM 8 channel splitter then I'd recommend getting fans that aren't too fast. Keep in mind the PWM signal will be split to the fans and the pump, so each device will run around the same percentage as whatever you set the pump to. So if you have 2400 rpm fans, then in order to run the pump at full speed, you'll also have to run the fans at full speed. I'd recommend Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet or Standard Editions (1450/2350 rpms), Noctua NF-F12 standard or industrial (1500/2000 rpms). The stock fans on the H220X are set for 1800 rpms and are actually an ideal speed for this type of setup. Just something to keep in mind if you are looking for faster fans than stock.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> I would buy the delta if it has more static pressure but peoole says that low fpi(fins per inch) radiators are fine with low speed fans due to the low resistence to the airflow/pressure


That's exactly what I was thinking, and since H220X's rad has low FPI I wonder how it's gonna benefit from high rpm(high CFM) Delta fans and is there a way to figure out the static pressure that particularly this Delta fan outputs?


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> If you plan to control the pump and fans using their PWM 8 channel splitter then I'd recommend getting fans that aren't too fast. Keep in mind the PWM signal will be split to the fans and the pump, so each device will run around the same percentage as whatever you set the pump to. So if you have 2400 rpm fans, then in order to run the pump at full speed, you'll also have to run the fans at full speed. I'd recommend Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet or Standard Editions (1450/2350 rpms), Noctua NF-F12 standard or industrial (1500/2000 rpms). The stock fans on the H220X are set for 1800 rpms and are actually an ideal speed for this type of setup. Just something to keep in mind if you are looking for faster fans than stock.


thanks for the replay







I actually don't plan using their splitter since my mobo has like 8 4pin fan headers so I'll be using these to get individual speed adjustment for each fan as well as the pump. Well, yea the reason I'm looking for faster fans because I wanna get lower temps with H220X by using aftermarket high CFM fans, I'm just not sure how much it will help to get sayy... 120cfm delta fans and run at max speed, how much difference that would make as opposed to stock fans come with H220X?

and what about PWM fans I don't really think so actually, I can connect the fan to CPU_FAN1 header and fans headers to my motherboard's 4pin connectors, so this will give me individual speed adjustment to each fan independent from the pump speed, isn't this true?


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> That's exactly what I was thinking, and since H220X's rad has low FPI I wonder how it's gonna benefit from high rpm(high CFM) Delta fans and is there a way to figure out the static pressure that particularly this Delta fan outputs?


Those deltas are 10.9 mm-h2o but you will need a fan as fast/or faste than that one on the read id you set the airflow of the radiator as intake to the case otherwise as exhaust it will take the hot air of the case to the rad,but the point of low speed fan is thay the resistance of the radiator wouldnt need fast fans unless you want to reduce (slighly the temperature)

Like the nh d14 which has a low resistance to the air


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for the replay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually don't plan using their splitter since my mobo has like 8 4pin fan headers so I'll be using these to get individual speed adjustment for each fan as well as the pump. Well, yea the reason I'm looking for faster fans because I wanna get lower temps with H220X by using aftermarket high CFM fans, I'm just not sure how much it will help to get sayy... 120cfm delta fans and run at max speed, how much difference that would make as opposed to stock fans come with H220X?
> 
> and what about PWM fans I don't really think so actually, I can connect the fan to CPU_FAN1 header and fans headers to my motherboard's 4pin connectors, so this will give me individual speed adjustment to each fan independent from the pump speed, isn't this true?


Yes you should be able to do that. Check your MB manual to see if those headers are actual PWM or variable voltage. My MB is full of 4 pin connectors, but only my CPU and CPU_OPT are actual PWM. PWM is much better than varying voltage and is more precise and versatile. As far as temps it can vary depending on the speed and efficiency of the fans. I was playing around last night doing 1 hour Valley runs with my SLI GPU loop and seeing how much fan speed effected temps.

I currently only have an Alphacool XT45 (setup in push pull with Corsair SP120s and Noctua NF-A14s) cooling both my GTX 770s. With low speed fans (900-1000 rpms) I was seeing 58-59C max on both cards after an hour. I raised the fans up to 1300-1400 rpms (not too noisy still) and saw 52C max after an hour of Valley. So fans certainly can influence the temps of the loop, but it also depends on the rads FPI (fins per inch). Lower FPI rads won't benefit as much as higher FPI rads from faster fans. There will be a certain speed threshold that won't benefit temps anymore, but it depends on the rad. I certainly am no expert, but I have been reading/researching here and learning as I go. Hope this helps you make a better decision. Id wager anything over 2000 rpms won't do much for temps and will be pretty loud and annoying.


Larger View


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes you should be able to do that. Check your MB manual to see if those headers are actual PWM or variable voltage. My MB is full of 4 pin connectors, but only my CPU and CPU_OPT are actual PWM. PWM is much better than varying voltage and is more precise and versatile. As far as temps it can vary depending on the speed and efficiency of the fans. I was playing around last night doing 1 hour Valley runs with my SLI GPU loop and seeing how much fan speed effected temps.
> 
> I currently only have an Alphacool XT45 (setup in push pull with Corsair SP120s and Noctua NF-A14s) cooling both my GTX 770s. With low speed fans (900-1000 rpms) I was seeing 58-59C max on both cards after an hour. I raised the fans up to 1300-1400 rpms (not too noisy still) and saw 52C max after an hour of Valley. So fans certainly can influence the temps of the loop, but it also depends on the rads FPI (fins per inch). Lower FPI rads won't benefit as much as higher FPI rads from faster fans. There will be a certain speed threshold that won't benefit temps anymore, but it depends on the rad. I certainly am no expert, but I have been reading/researching here and learning as I go. Hope this helps you make a better decision. Id wager anything over 2000 rpms won't do much for temps and will be pretty loud and annoying.
> 
> 
> Larger View


Wow I don't get anywhere near that kind of temperature drop on my XT45 and ST30 rads with increased fan speeds, wish I did though. Maybe mine aren't as heat saturated? I've got 720mm of rad (480mm XT45, 240mm ST30) cooling 8350 (1.45-1.56V depending on the OC), 7870 XT 1.2-1.3V, VRM, and NB. Going from 750 RPM to 1700 RPM on all my fans only nets me like 3C better temps, typically not worth the extra noise.


----------



## Rakunvar

THE H-220X are IN STOCK https://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wow I don't get anywhere near that kind of temperature drop on my XT45 and ST30 rads with increased fan speeds, wish I did though. Maybe mine aren't as heat saturated? I've got 720mm of rad (480mm XT45, 240mm ST30) cooling 8350 (1.45-1.56V depending on the OC), 7870 XT 1.2-1.3V, VRM, and NB. Going from 750 RPM to 1700 RPM on all my fans only nets me like 3C better temps, typically not worth the extra noise.


I was surprised too. Maybe the push pull make a difference in the heat dissipation. One reason for this could be that the front panel of the Corsair 350D is a little restrictive. So the extra rpms help to get better air flow through the front rad. It also improved overall air temps in the case. I noticed a slight drop in the H100i's (soon to be an H220X) temps in Valley when I increased the fan profiles. Usually the H100i has very little temp variance from med to very high fan speeds. So that would be my guess as to why such drastic temp changes.

Maybe it isn't the best illustration to use because of the variables, but it shows that good airflow can improve temps, especially in the summer (higher deltas). I tend to switch my fan profiles when the seasons change and go a little quieter in the winter months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> THE H-220X are IN STOCK https://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx


Thanks for the heads up! I finally grabbed one...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for the replay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually don't plan using their splitter since my mobo has like 8 4pin fan headers so I'll be using these to get individual speed adjustment for each fan as well as the pump. Well, yea the reason I'm looking for faster fans because I wanna get lower temps with H220X by using aftermarket high CFM fans, I'm just not sure how much it will help to get sayy... 120cfm delta fans and run at max speed, how much difference that would make as opposed to stock fans come with H220X?
> 
> and what about PWM fans I don't really think so actually, I can connect the fan to CPU_FAN1 header and fans headers to my motherboard's 4pin connectors, so this will give me individual speed adjustment to each fan independent from the pump speed, isn't this true?


The temp difference isn't worth the cost of the fans IMHO. The stock Helix PWM fans included are designed specifically for the radiator used in the H220X (MCR220-QP core). You'll spend $60 and get maybe 2* difference over the Helix fans, less if you add a third Helix PWM fan for $11.

Also keep in mind that 99% of motherboards only PWM regulate the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers, and voltage regulate all others, even when they are often "4 pin" headers. Not to mention that Delta fans at full speed will pull a ton of Amperage through your mobo, which could possibly damage it.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Those deltas are 10.9 mm-h2o but you will need a fan as fast/or faste than that one on the read id you set the airflow of the radiator as intake to the case otherwise as exhaust it will take the hot air of the case to the rad,but the point of low speed fan is thay the resistance of the radiator wouldnt need fast fans unless you want to reduce (slighly the temperature)
> 
> Like the nh d14 which has a low resistance to the air


these Delta fans I referenced in my post are definitely much faster than stock ones on H220X

H220X - 1800RPM, ~55CFM
Delta AFC1212D-PWM - 3400RPM, ~115CFM

also as far as I'm concerned H220X already comes fans as intake

so, would you think going from stock ones to these Deltas might give notable temps drop? thanks.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> these Delta fans I referenced in my post are definitely much faster than stock ones on H220X
> 
> H220X - 1800RPM, ~55CFM
> Delta AFC1212D-PWM - 3400RPM, ~115CFM
> 
> also as far as I'm concerned H220X already comes fans as intake
> 
> so, would you think going from stock ones to these Deltas might give notable temps drop? thanks.


Nope. 1-2* maybe. To put it this way, the radiator isn't designed to effectively use high speed/SP fans. Once you have adequate air flow to dissipate heat from the fins, any air flow above that will become insignificant at an exponential rate.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> if you want to keep low noise
> NoiseBlocker eloop B12-P or Noctua NF F12 scythe glidestream
> IF you want more performance with more noise
> http://koolance.com/fan-120x25mm-108cfm
> Or Delta Fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Nope. 1-2* maybe. To put it this way, the radiator isn't designed to effectively use high speed/SP fans. Once you have adequate air flow to dissipate heat from the fins, any air flow above that will become insignificant at an exponential rate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes you should be able to do that. Check your MB manual to see if those headers are actual PWM or variable voltage. My MB is full of 4 pin connectors, but only my CPU and CPU_OPT are actual PWM. PWM is much better than varying voltage and is more precise and versatile. As far as temps it can vary depending on the speed and efficiency of the fans. I was playing around last night doing 1 hour Valley runs with my SLI GPU loop and seeing how much fan speed effected temps.
> 
> I currently only have an Alphacool XT45 (setup in push pull with Corsair SP120s and Noctua NF-A14s) cooling both my GTX 770s. With low speed fans (900-1000 rpms) I was seeing 58-59C max on both cards after an hour. I raised the fans up to 1300-1400 rpms (not too noisy still) and saw 52C max after an hour of Valley. So fans certainly can influence the temps of the loop, but it also depends on the rads FPI (fins per inch). Lower FPI rads won't benefit as much as higher FPI rads from faster fans. There will be a certain speed threshold that won't benefit temps anymore, but it depends on the rad. I certainly am no expert, but I have been reading/researching here and learning as I go. Hope this helps you make a better decision. Id wager anything over 2000 rpms won't do much for temps and will be pretty loud and annoying.
> 
> 
> Larger View


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The temp difference isn't worth the cost of the fans IMHO. The stock Helix PWM fans included are designed specifically for the radiator used in the H220X (MCR220-QP core). You'll spend $60 and get maybe 2* difference over the Helix fans, less if you add a third Helix PWM fan for $11.
> 
> Also keep in mind that 99% of motherboards only PWM regulate the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers, and voltage regulate all others, even when they are often "4 pin" headers. Not to mention that Delta fans at full speed will pull a ton of Amperage through your mobo, which could possibly damage it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> these Delta fans I referenced in my post are definitely much faster than stock ones on H220X
> 
> H220X - 1800RPM, ~55CFM
> Delta AFC1212D-PWM - 3400RPM, ~115CFM
> 
> also as far as I'm concerned H220X already comes fans as intake
> 
> so, would you think going from stock ones to these Deltas might give notable temps drop? thanks.


Well guys, after reading all these comments I assume that spending 45-50$ on two fans aren't worth the price especially if the temps drop aren't gonna be any notable... if I upgrade to these Delta fans I'd at least expect 7C drop in temps.... if its isn't even that probably I won't be spending that money, since 3-4C is too little to spend 45$

what about the motherboard I believe mine has real PWM fan headers all over the mobo, I think there is 9 of these, I've ROG VII Formula motherboard and as of now I'm able to control the fan speed with Asus's Alsuite software, and all of them individually of course, I can also adjust them in BIOS, so PWMs on this mobo work just fine and there is plenty of these.

I think I better save this money add another 40$ and get some 80-90$ 3x 120mm radiator and run it with my _case's stock fans_

do you guys favor this adding radiator idea using stock fans more VS. getting Delta fans for H220X?

and what do you guys think of this radiators? _The Black Ice GTX Xtreme,_ _Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger,_ _Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta_

Thank you guys again for taking your time and helping me out here, I'm just trying to get things work out better since I wanna get lower temps, thanks


----------



## PontiacGTX

Maybe I dont really know I am new into rad cooling


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Well guys, after reading all these comments I assume that spending 45-50$ on two fans aren't worth the price especially if the temps drop aren't gonna be any notable... if I upgrade to these Delta fans I'd at least expect 7C drop in temps.... if its isn't even that probably I won't be spending that money, since 3-4C is too little to spend 45$
> 
> what about the motherboard I believe mine has real PWM fan headers all over the mobo, I think there is 9 of these, I've ROG VII Formula motherboard and as of now I'm able to control the fan speed with Asus's Alsuite software, and all of them individually of course, I can also adjust them in BIOS, so PWMs on this mobo work just fine and there is plenty of these.
> 
> I think I better save this money add another 40$ and get some 80-90$ 3x 120mm radiator and run it with my _case's stock fans_
> 
> do you guys favor this adding radiator idea using stock fans more VS. getting Delta fans for H220X?
> 
> and what do you guys think of this radiators? _The Black Ice GTX Xtreme,_ _Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger,_ _Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta_
> 
> Thank you guys again for taking your time and helping me out here, I'm just trying to get things work out better since I wanna get lower temps, thanks


I can't speak for the MVII Formula, but EVERY Asus board I've owned (all ROG) controlled all the 4 pin headers via voltage, except the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. The good news? You can control voltage regulated fans on those headers, which are cheaper than PWM fans. Any of those radiators will work. If you want to save some cash though, I have a Black Ice Stealth 280 mm rad, 30 FPI, 30mm thick, unused radiator that I'll be selling shortly for about $35. It has a couple scratches in the front from mock-ups but they aren't viewable when mounted.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Well guys, after reading all these comments I assume that spending 45-50$ on two fans aren't worth the price especially if the temps drop aren't gonna be any notable... if I upgrade to these Delta fans I'd at least expect 7C drop in temps.... if its isn't even that probably I won't be spending that money, since 3-4C is too little to spend 45$
> 
> what about the motherboard I believe mine has real PWM fan headers all over the mobo, I think there is 9 of these, I've ROG VII Formula motherboard and as of now I'm able to control the fan speed with Asus's Alsuite software, and all of them individually of course, I can also adjust them in BIOS, so PWMs on this mobo work just fine and there is plenty of these.
> 
> I think I better save this money add another 40$ and get some 80-90$ 3x 120mm radiator and run it with my _case's stock fans_
> 
> do you guys favor this adding radiator idea using stock fans more VS. getting Delta fans for H220X?
> 
> and what do you guys think of this radiators? _The Black Ice GTX Xtreme,_ _Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger,_ _Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta_
> 
> Thank you guys again for taking your time and helping me out here, I'm just trying to get things work out better since I wanna get lower temps, thanks


You would be much better off spending $50 on another rad, 2 fittings, and 2 more helix fans.


----------



## a505s6965

Has anyone done rigid tubing on a h320? I have a h320 that will be here friday and was curious about it!


----------



## sdmf74

Asus claims that All 8 headers on Maximus VII Formula are true PWM unlike my Maximus V Formula, which is getting replaced tomorrow with the 7


----------



## BangBangPlay

@RetiredAssassin

I like to pay it forward here cause I learn so much. I also have an Asus board, the Z87 Gryphon and I only recently found out that all of the 4 pin headers besides CPU and CPU_OPT are not PWM. If you check page 1-41 of your manual you'll see there are slight differences between the two CPU connectors and the rest. The standard 4 pin have a +5V power line instead of a PWM signal like the two CPU fans. Believe me I was bummed too, but this is the case with most MBs apparently.

I too can control the all of the fans, but it isn't as smooth and precise as the two CPU fans. Real PWM headers have a small switch on each connector to differentiate between 3 and 4 pin fans. I actually never even noticed. The voltage controlled 4 pin headers will work, just not quite like PWM. The speed isn't as variable/controllable, they can't be run at very slow speeds (like PWM), and they don't change speeds smoothly. Basically, just don't use any of the non CPU fan headers to try to control the pump.

I am going to use the 8 channel splitter on the CPU fan header to connect both H220X fans and then connect the H220 to the CPU_OPT connector. This way I can control all three equally, but also monitor the speed of both. The CPU_OPT is a slave/clone of the CPU header, but it does read its own unique speed in AI Suite. With the 8 channel connector you can only monitor the speed of whatever is connected to CH 1.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a505s6965*
> 
> Has anyone done rigid tubing on a h320? I have a h320 that will be here friday and was curious about it!


The fittings on the H320 aren't removable or replaceable with standard G 1/4 fittings. I'm sorry about that, but you won't be able to use rigid tubing with this kit.


----------



## VSG

The H320 doesn't have G1/4 threading available, does it?

Edit: Nevermind, Bryan confirmed it.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Asus claims that All 8 headers on Maximus VII Formula are true PWM unlike my Maximus V Formula, which is getting replaced tomorrow with the 7


A lil' off topic but can you let me know your thought on that board?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Asus claims that All 8 headers on Maximus VII Formula are true PWM unlike my Maximus V Formula, which is getting replaced tomorrow with the 7


They kept claiming this till now and every single reviewer regurgitated the same thing from the reviewer's guide. It bit consumers like me instead. Please let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## sdmf74

Yes I will definately let you guys know, I'm stoked. just placed 2 more orders like $200+ each for just accessories








and then realized I forgot to order screws, I hate paying for shipping. Needless to say I did 2nd day on the screws and they will be here tomorrow. Trashin this 750d for a merlin SM8 2 tone









I'm gonna pull an all niter and try to get this build done quickly and will take pics and give feedback.

Was hopin for a new pump top before I got started but That's not gonna happen, still waitin on those details that were sposed to come last week


----------



## Rakunvar

Swiftech H220x is still in stock guys if anyone's been waiting http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx


----------



## SynchroSCP

The benefit of the splitter is that it only take the pwm signal from the motherboard and power to the fans comes from the sata connector. 1 fan per connector is fine, when splitters are used for multiple fans off one connector that goes beyond what the mobo is rated for. Better to use the splitter if you can, works really well...have 6 fans on mine now and is really nice ramping up the whole system as needed but also calm and quiet at idle since pump and fans are controlled off the same signal.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Well guys, after reading all these comments I assume that spending 45-50$ on two fans aren't worth the price especially if the temps drop aren't gonna be any notable... if I upgrade to these Delta fans I'd at least expect 7C drop in temps.... if its isn't even that probably I won't be spending that money, since 3-4C is too little to spend 45$
> 
> what about the motherboard I believe mine has real PWM fan headers all over the mobo, I think there is 9 of these, I've ROG VII Formula motherboard and as of now I'm able to control the fan speed with Asus's Alsuite software, and all of them individually of course, I can also adjust them in BIOS, so PWMs on this mobo work just fine and there is plenty of these.
> 
> I think I better save this money add another 40$ and get some 80-90$ 3x 120mm radiator and run it with my _case's stock fans_
> 
> do you guys favor this adding radiator idea using stock fans more VS. getting Delta fans for H220X?
> 
> and what do you guys think of this radiators? _The Black Ice GTX Xtreme,_ _Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger,_ _Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta_
> 
> Thank you guys again for taking your time and helping me out here, I'm just trying to get things work out better since I wanna get lower temps, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't speak for the MVII Formula, but EVERY Asus board I've owned (all ROG) controlled all the 4 pin headers via voltage, except the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. The good news? You can control voltage regulated fans on those headers, which are cheaper than PWM fans. Any of those radiators will work. If you want to save some cash though, I have a Black Ice Stealth 280 mm rad, 30 FPI, 30mm thick, unused radiator that I'll be selling shortly for about $35. It has a couple scratches in the front from mock-ups but they aren't viewable when mounted.
Click to expand...

according to the manual it is true PWM i just checked


----------



## NasaGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> [...]
> You can purchase the H220-X directly from our website once we have them back in stock. They should be available in Europe in the next 2 to 3 weeks though, if not sooner. We have no plans or intention of releasing an H320-X version of this kit. This is due to the fact that the reservoir and pump sit under the radiator now and a 320 version would protrude too far into the optical drive bays and thus make many case incompatible with a kit of that kind.


What if I buy the H220-X in the USA and after some time it stops working good, when the H220-X arive EU, can I use the European Support, or do I have to send it back to the USA Swiftech for support?

And in a few (2 - 3) weeks?

In a german forum (Hardwareluxx) an Swiftech Supporter told, that they will arrive in the first week of August (last week...)


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> according to the manual it is true PWM i just checked


I wonder what does really true PWM is and what is the false one?(reducing a voltage method) if Im not wrong

in other words, what is true PWM?

thanks


----------



## M3TAl

In very basic terms pwm sends a pulse on the 4th wire that shuts the device off and back on at a certain rate. The device always receives 12V.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> I wonder what does really true PWM is and what is the false one?(reducing a voltage method) if Im not wrong
> 
> in other words, what is true PWM?
> 
> thanks


true pwm sends only a signal for a fan to slow down while retaining all of the voltage. voltage modifies the amount of power being sent thus forcing whatever connected to it to not work at full capacity, though voltage is unstable in the fact that all electrical equipment have a minimum amount of voltage required for it to work(in simple terms, PWM is messing with a fan with an on off switch, Voltage is messing with a fan with a dimmer). The test using swiftech's coolers is to plug the 8pin pwm splitter into the port along with 1 pwm capable item on the pwm spot. Since the splitter recieves its power from Sata, it will always run at full speed unless it can legitamately detect a PWM signal. If programs wont let you control it while plugged into the splitter, then the pin you plugged it into is not a PWM capable pin


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> according to the manual it is true PWM i just checked
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder what does really true PWM is and what is the false one?(reducing a voltage method) if Im not wrong
> 
> in other words, what is true PWM?
> 
> thanks
Click to expand...

basically, it matters because most PWM devices can be damaged if not fed 12v, the only exception i know of, with concrete proof ( look around ) are high speed GTs,

with that said in asus defense, they have never lied in their manuals about fan header pinouts that i know of


----------



## UnStableFPS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Swiftech H220x is still in stock guys if anyone's been waiting http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx


I"ve been waiting, but having a hard time willing to pay $20 for shipping


----------



## EarlZ

Still shows out of stock


----------



## speedy2721

I just got my 240L installed and added my GTX 780ti to the loop (no extra radiator), and the results are pretty good so far while playing Watch Dogs on Ultra. Here are my results.

Delidded 3570K at 4.6ghz using 1.37v and max temp is 66c
Gtx 780ti at 1200mhz core - 7300mhz memory and 1.075v on the core. Max temp was 50c on the core.

Ambient temp: 26c-27c
Pump Speed: 2450 RPM
Fan Speed: 1150 RPM


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedy2721*
> 
> I just got my 240L installed and added my GTX 780ti to the loop (no extra radiator), and the results are pretty good so far while playing Watch Dogs on Ultra. Here are my results.
> 
> Delidded 3570K at 4.6ghz using 1.37v and max temp is 66c
> Gtx 780ti at 1200mhz core - 7300mhz memory and 1.075v on the core. Max temp was 50c on the core.
> 
> Ambient temp: 26c-27c
> Pump Speed: 2450 RPM
> Fan Speed: 1150 RPM


damn man that's some pretty nice results







I was actually looking for somebody who's done it with stock radiator without adding another one so I could figure out from there if it'd be worth to do as well, my plan is expanding my Swiftech H220X and pare it with my 780Ti classified with EK water block, my cpu is 4790K tho, so I was wondering if I do this with H220X would it manage to cool down my cpu along with the gpu without adding an extra radiator? and from your results seems like that it did pretty good job for 120mm radiator, did you use anything else other than just expanding your loop for your GPU? thanks


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedy2721*
> 
> I just got my 240L installed and added my GTX 780ti to the loop (no extra radiator), and the results are pretty good so far while playing Watch Dogs on Ultra. Here are my results.
> 
> Delidded 3570K at 4.6ghz using 1.37v and max temp is 66c
> Gtx 780ti at 1200mhz core - 7300mhz memory and 1.075v on the core. Max temp was 50c on the core.
> 
> Ambient temp: 26c-27c
> Pump Speed: 2450 RPM
> Fan Speed: 1150 RPM


Makes me wanna add both my 780's and just add a single 120mm rad.


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> I"ve been waiting, but having a hard time willing to pay $20 for shipping


Yea the OCN coupon did take off like 10$ or something I think, cant recall the amount.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Still shows out of stock


Yep, they're out of stock yet again now, not sure if they'll restock anytime soon again, posted a few times last night when I saw it in stock.


----------



## delpy8

Hi Guys,

Im liking the look of this 220X, how much of a difference in temps will I get by removing my H320 and installing this?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Makes me wanna add both my 780's and just add a single 120mm rad.


Can easily be done; AMD cools two 290X cores with a single 120mm aluminum radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Yea the OCN coupon did take off like 10$ or something I think, cant recall the amount.
> Yep, they're out of stock yet again now, not sure if they'll restock anytime soon again, posted a few times last night when I saw it in stock.


The OCN coupon code should be expired by now; I'll remove it from the OP unless Gabe or Bryan says otherwise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Im liking the look of this 220X, how much of a difference in temps will I get by removing my H320 and installing this?


If only cooling the CPU, maybe 2-3C* higher temps than the H320. The H220X is nearly identical to the H220 in terms of CPU-only cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> damn man that's some pretty nice results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually looking for somebody who's done it with stock radiator without adding another one so I could figure out from there if it'd be worth to do as well, my plan is expanding my Swiftech H220X and pare it with my 780Ti classified with EK water block, my cpu is 4790K tho, so I was wondering if I do this with H220X would it manage to cool down my cpu along with the gpu without adding an extra radiator? and from your results seems like that it did pretty good job for 120mm radiator, did you use anything else other than just expanding your loop for your GPU? thanks


I would do it without thinking twice about it. That being said, if you run hyperthreading on your CPU, your CPU temps will be higher than his, all other things equal, since he is running an i5.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> What if I buy the H220-X in the USA and after some time it stops working good, when the H220-X arive EU, can I use the European Support, or do I have to send it back to the USA Swiftech for support?
> 
> And in a few (2 - 3) weeks?
> 
> In a german forum (Hardwareluxx) an Swiftech Supporter told, that they will arrive in the first week of August (last week...)


In all likelihood if you purchased the kit directly from us then you'll have to go through us and not our European distributor for support. I'll try to get confirmation of that, but usually our European distributor isn't willing to assist with support if the product isn't purchased through one of their channels. That's pretty standard.

The last time I checked it looks like the H220X will arrive in Europe at the end of this month or early September. I think there was a shipping issue that caused this latest delay and that's why they were originally supposed to be there last week. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## nado4ilhas

Bryan, no longer works the OCN code?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> Bryan, no longer works the OCN code?


The code was active only through the end of July IIRC.


----------



## Sickened1

What's the fastest method good no about an RMA? I emailed the RMA email listed on the website a few days back with no response.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sickened1*
> 
> What's the fastest method good no about an RMA? I emailed the RMA email listed on the website a few days back with no response.


Send me a PM and I'll look into it for you.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> according to the manual it is true PWM i just checked


Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.


Larger View

I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?


----------



## NasaGT

@Bram
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In all likelihood if you purchased the kit directly from us then you'll have to go through us and not our European distributor for support. I'll try to get confirmation of that, but usually our European distributor isn't willing to assist with support if the product isn't purchased through one of their channels. That's pretty standard.
> 
> The last time I checked it looks like the H220X will arrive in Europe at the end of this month or early September. I think there was a shipping issue that caused this latest delay and that's why they were originally supposed to be there last week. I'm sorry about that.


Thats very bad







...

Will the other new awesome Swiftech stuff (Apogee XL, Maelstrom V2, PWM Splitter and MCP50X) get to Europe to the same time like the H220X??


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.
> 
> 
> Larger View
> 
> I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?


The Manual for the Sabertooth z97 does say that but if you look at BIOS screens shots

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luk-hill/asus-sabertooth-z97-mark-1-motherboard-review/4/

The Chasis fan headers have multi mode operation, DC or PWM, as well as the CPU fan header,

Same on the Maximus VII Hero
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/MAXIMUS_VII_HERO/images/bios_46.jpg

On page 3-7 of the Sabertooth manual there is a picture of the Q fan control screen showing the DC / PWM selector. Page 3-48 talks about chasis fan control too.

Not sure about the other new gen Asus boards but user manuals are notoriously inaccurate and later revised. It seems like they often just cut and paste whole sections from earlier models.


----------



## Dry Bonez

How much of a difference is this over the Noctua NH D14? I love my Noctua NH D14 honestly,but i HATE how i cant admire the inside because it is so damn big and covers my ram as well


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> @Bram
> Thats very bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Will the other new awesome Swiftech stuff (Apogee XL, Maelstrom V2, PWM Splitter and MCP50X) get to Europe to the same time like the H220X??


Yes, everything should arrive in Europe around the same time. Probably not in the same shipment, but definitely within a week or two of each other.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> How much of a difference is this over the Noctua NH D14? I love my Noctua NH D14 honestly,but i HATE how i cant admire the inside because it is so damn big and covers my ram as well


I came from a U14s with 2 fans and its better for sure. I use to hit almost 80 in games like bf4, now I'm around the low 60's


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I came from a U14s with 2 fans and its better for sure. I use to hit almost 80 in games like bf4, now I'm around the low 60's


awesome!! cant wait! now here is a noob question,i wanna try it right now.how can i test heat while in game??? what program do i need? because when i play BF4,i cant see my temps.


----------



## nado4ilhas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, everything should arrive in Europe around the same time. Probably not in the same shipment, but definitely within a week or two of each other.


Hello BramSLI1,
when it is expected to return in stock H220-x


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> awesome!! cant wait! now here is a noob question,i wanna try it right now.how can i test heat while in game??? what program do i need? because when i play BF4,i cant see my temps.


Check out HwInfo

http://www.hwinfo.com/


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Check out HwInfo
> 
> http://www.hwinfo.com/


Is that gonna let me see my temps while in game??


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Is that gonna let me see my temps while in game??


Yes, just install, start the game and hit reset stats on hwinfo. Play a little then see your max temps in hwinfo


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The code was active only through the end of July IIRC.


The code did work for me took like 15$ off didnt even realize it was supposed to be expired


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Is that gonna let me see my temps while in game??


If you want OSD (On Screen Display) while in-game you need HWiNFO32 or 64 *AND* RTSS (Riva Tuner Statistics Server). Either download RTSS by itself or just install MSI Afterburner (comes with RTSS). Honestly I can't live without MSI AB and HWiNFO.

Once you have HWiNFO and RTSS you need to go in the settings for HWiNFO to the OSD (RTSS) tab and set it up in there. It's a bit of a chore to set all this up but well worth the time if you're one of those people that just has to have OSD with all your temps and RPM's.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.
> 
> 
> Larger View
> 
> I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?


thanks for pointing that out mate







so far I thought VII Formula's headers are true PWM controlled headers, but turns out they are rather voltage controlled.

So after all using the bundled splitter that comes with H220X is the best way to connect fans as well as the pump right? thanks again


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> awesome!! cant wait! now here is a noob question,i wanna try it right now.how can i test heat while in game??? what program do i need? because when i play BF4,i cant see my temps.


You can Alt + Tab while in most any full screen game or benchmark to return to the desktop, or alternate programs. I use it during Valley runs sometimes to view the monitoring programs like HWinfo, HWMonitor, or CPU/GPUz. It is a useful to combo to know if you don't want to quit the program to return to the desktop.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> You can Alt + Tab while in most any full screen game or benchmark to return to the desktop, or alternate programs. I use it during Valley runs sometimes to view the monitoring programs like HWinfo, HWMonitor, or CPU/GPUz. It is a useful to combo to know if you don't want to quit the program to return to the desktop.


Hey,so i tried what you guys were telling me,and it turns out when i open it up and followed the directions,the game (BF4) wont load any game. But when i exit the apps,the game runs just fine.


----------



## M3TAl

Which programs did you install? No problems with MSI AB and HWiNFO64 and BF4 for me. This is actually a screencap of a video recording in windows media player lol.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> basically, it matters because most PWM devices can be damaged if not fed 12v, the only exception i know of, with concrete proof ( look around ) are high speed GTs,
> 
> with that said in asus defense, they have never lied in their manuals about fan header pinouts that i know of


No Asus has never lied in their manuals but they have had Errors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.
> 
> 
> Larger View
> 
> I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?


Like I said Asus claims they are all true PWM. The manual does show some having 5v lines and I cant remember where I read it (probably Asus forums) but supposedly this is a misprint in the manual. One of the reasons I bought this board was for PWM on all headers cause all my fans are PWM.
With that being said I would hate for anyone including myself to damage components so I will attempt to prove or disprove this once and for all but it will take time. I'm getting a late start to my build today and have a ton of work to do on it. If anyone has the M7F and can test this sooner that would be great.


----------



## sdmf74

This is the response I just recieved in the Asus ROG forums..

"Hello All fan headers can be set for DC or PWM fan usage. As has been stated multiple times this applies to all ASUS Z97 motherboards including the M7F."


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey,so i tried what you guys were telling me,and it turns out when i open it up and followed the directions,the game (BF4) wont load any game. But when i exit the apps,the game runs just fine.


That's weird, I don't play BF4 unfortunately. Maybe try running one at a time, they can conflict with one another if you open several. You can also try a log too. GPUz and HWinfo can create logs for sensors while you play and you can check the text logs later too. Your best bet is to run Valley or 3D Mark and check your max temps after they complete their benchmarks. Those temps are usually higher than I get in any of my games, so that should give you a good indication of what your temps are.


----------



## M3TAl

The max temps in BF4 for CPU (at least for an 8320/8350) are really unreliable. In the loading screen it goes over 60C for a second or two. Actual gameplay is in the low 40's.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> This is the response I just recieved in the Asus ROG forums..
> 
> "Hello All fan headers can be set for DC or PWM fan usage. As has been stated multiple times this applies to all ASUS Z97 motherboards including the M7F."


That is good news then. I am still disappointed at how vague and deceptive Asus has been about the PWM functionality on some of their MBs. I didn't want to cause confusion, I just reported what I saw directly in the manuals. For a while I actually believed I had PWM control on all except the ASST_FAN header on my board. I did notice a difference between the two CPU fans and some of the case fan's controllability and minimum speeds, but I figured it was an issue with AI Suite. I would say always assume the chassis fan headers are voltage controlled until you find out for sure that it is true PWM. Unfortunately the manual isn't accurate (as of today at least), so asking Asus directly is probably the best option. Raja is good at responding quickly on those forums in my experience.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> according to the manual it is true PWM i just checked
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.
> 
> 
> Larger View
> 
> I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> basically, it matters because most PWM devices can be damaged if not fed 12v, the only exception i know of, with concrete proof ( look around ) are high speed GTs,
> 
> with that said in asus defense, they have never lied in their manuals about fan header pinouts that i know of
> 
> 
> 
> No Asus has never lied in their manuals but they have had Errors.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Are you talking about the VII Formula board? Im pretty sure only the CPU and CPU_OPT connectors are true PWM and the rest have +5V lines like my Gryphon. They refer to them as PWM fans, but they are really voltage controlled.
> 
> 
> Larger View
> 
> I just don't want RetiredAssassin to connect his pump to one of those headers thinking it is PWM. I double checked the manuals of a handful of Asus' new boards (Sabertooth, Hero, Z97 Pro) and they are all like this. Is it too much of a hassle (or to expensive) to extend the PWM functionality to all of the MB headers?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Like I said Asus claims they are all true PWM. The manual does show some having 5v lines and I cant remember where I read it (probably Asus forums) but supposedly this is a misprint in the manual. One of the reasons I bought this board was for PWM on all headers cause all my fans are PWM.
> With that being said I would hate for anyone including myself to damage components so I will attempt to prove or disprove this once and for all but it will take time. I'm getting a late start to my build today and have a ton of work to do on it. If anyone has the M7F and can test this sooner that would be great.
Click to expand...

yep your right, but i swear, when i read it they all have PWM on fourth pin, man it has been a stressful week


----------



## Gir

Just received my H220x in the mail today. Got impatient and already installed it.









Next week I'll get my second 290x in and I'll expand the loop to connect the h220x, the cpu, 360 rad, and my two 290x's. Unfortunately that has to wait on the alphacool sli/crossfire connector for the GPX coolers to come in stock. 2-3 weeks was the last estimate I received.

http://picturepush.com/public/14303950

http://picturepush.com/public/14303951

http://picturepush.com/public/14303952


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me a PM and I'll look into it for you.


hey there, I'd need your help and some other folks too who own H220X.

just a little ago I finished installing my H220X aaanddd it's either I'm doing something wrong or it's not really that impressive.

first of all I wanna mention that at full speed the pump is darn noisy(quite more noisy than my H105)

the CPU is 4790K motherboard is ROG VII Formula.

and besides that.. after installing I stressed it with latest Prime95(28.5) with small FFTs just for one minute, and these are the results




do you think these temps are normal for 4790K or maybe there is something wrong? honestly I don't think these temps are fine for a minute stress test with prime95.

idle temps are 32-33



BTW: no overclock everything runs at stock settings. vcore is 1.072

thanks.


----------



## EarlZ

Looks pretty toasty, did you manually set the Vcore that low? could you show us more details like the latest CPU-Z running with it while stressed, that is too hot for small FTT at 1.072v, I get something like 88c tops with smallftt at 1.210v @ 4.4Ghz so something is definitely wrong with that or its running at 1.40v


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Looks pretty toasty, did you manually set the Vcore that low? could you show us more details like the latest CPU-Z running with it while stressed, that is too hot for small FTT at 1.072v, I get something like 88c tops with smallftt at 1.210v @ 4.4Ghz so something is definitely wrong with that or its running at 1.40v


thanks for wanting to help me out bro









and what about vcore, no, I didn't manually set it, this was the the default setting.

yeah sure here you go a screen shot with CPU-Z and Hardware Temp Monitor



what do you think could be wrong?


----------



## fleetfeather

I know the Apogee XL block has G1/4 holes, but does the H220-X feature standard G1/4 holes on the pump and radiator too? Say, if someone wanted to swap from barb fittings to a full set of compression fittings, would that be possible?


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for wanting to help me out bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and what about vcore, no, I didn't manually set it, this was the the default setting.
> 
> yeah sure here you go a screen shot with CPU-Z and Hardware Temp Monitor
> 
> what do you think could be wrong?


Doesn't look like you have a good mount, or something isn't connected. You took the plastic off the CPU block before mounting, right? Take the cpu block off and make sure the TIM is spread out as it would if you had a nice tight fit to the cpu and check all your connections. My 4790k runs in the 70's at 4.7 with a 1.3 Vcore with the H220X so something isn't setup correctly there it looks like.

When you re-mount it, clean the CPU block and CPU with Iso Alcohol, put a pea size drop of TIM on the cpu, attach the CPU block to the back plate by just barely starting all 4 screws then work in an X pattern tightening each screw a couple of turns and move on to the next. This helps get an even mount and spread the TIM correctly. You will feel when the screws hit the stops, check each one that it is fully tightened. WHen they are you should have a better mount and check temps again.

Then go over to the Devils Cayon Owners Club thread and read the overclocking guide, first thing it will do is show you how to find your lowest stable stock Vcore, 1.1 or so. Do not try to overclock your CPU without doing this, you need to find the correct stock Vcore which will help you find the right OC vcore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I know the Apogee XL block has G1/4 holes, but does the H220-X feature standard G1/4 holes on the pump and radiator too? Say, if someone wanted to swap from barb fittings to a full set of compression fittings, would that be possible?


All but the pump outlet and they will be releasing a G1/4 adapter soon for that one.


----------



## gdubc

H220x is listed in stock at *PerformancePC* today. Don't forget to use the discount code ocn55.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> All but the pump outlet and they will be releasing a G1/4 adapter soon for that one.


When you say soon, do you mean _soon_™, or has Swiftech given an ETA on it?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> H220x is listed in stock at *PerformancePC* today. Don't forget to use the discount code ocn55.


To counter that 5.5%, they have raised prices by $20 (14.3%) instead


----------



## gdubc

Yeah, just noticed that. Crazy. Frozen should have theirs any day and it's priced right there. I wouldn't have even linked the performance one if I had noticed the gouging.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> When you say soon, do you mean _soon_™, or has Swiftech given an ETA on it?


Right from their product page that nobody seems to read...

"The factory fittings can now be upgraded to any G1/4 compatible after-market fittings (an optional adapter is needed for the pump outlet and will be available shortly), which will allow enthusiast users to upgrade their system to 1/2" ID tubing if they wish to."

I assume _Shortly_™ is better than _soon_™, but have not seen a date given for the release.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for wanting to help me out bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and what about vcore, no, I didn't manually set it, this was the the default setting.
> 
> yeah sure here you go a screen shot with CPU-Z and Hardware Temp Monitor
> 
> 
> 
> what do you think could be wrong?


I know it seems silly, but did you remove the plastic cover on the copper base? Many have made this mistake. either way, a remount is in order I think. As well as hotwiring on and moving around the pump while it's running, to make sure to get any air bubbles out if it seems exceedingly noisy, though keep in mind, this thing at full tilt flows about 4x the water of an H105 or any other Assetek piece.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Right from their product page that nobody seems to read...
> 
> "The factory fittings can now be upgraded to any G1/4 compatible after-market fittings (an optional adapter is needed for the pump outlet and will be available shortly), which will allow enthusiast users to upgrade their system to 1/2" ID tubing if they wish to."
> 
> I assume _Shortly_™ is better than _soon_™, but have not seen a date given for the release.


Gotcha. I had checked the product page, but wasn't sure if one of the resident swiftech reps on OCN had given any further insight in this club. All g


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Gotcha. I had checked the product page, but wasn't sure if one of the resident swiftech reps on OCN had given any further insight in this club. All g











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I know it seems silly, but did you remove the plastic cover on the copper base? Many have made this mistake. either way, a remount is in order I think. As well as hotwiring on and moving around the pump while it's running, to make sure to get any air bubbles out if it seems exceedingly noisy, though keep in mind, this thing at full tilt flows about 4x the water of an H105 or any other Assetek piece.


Agreed, asked the same thing above and am willing to bet that's it if everything is hooked up correctly. Should be getting much better performance than that.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hey there, I'd need your help and some other folks too who own H220X.
> 
> just a little ago I finished installing my H220X aaanddd it's either I'm doing something wrong or it's not really that impressive.
> 
> first of all I wanna mention that at full speed the pump is darn noisy(quite more noisy than my H105)
> 
> the CPU is 4790K motherboard is ROG VII Formula.
> 
> and besides that.. after installing I stressed it with latest Prime95(28.5) with small FFTs just for one minute, and these are the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you think these temps are normal for 4790K or maybe there is something wrong? honestly I don't think these temps are fine for a minute stress test with prime95.
> 
> idle temps are 32-33
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: no overclock everything runs at stock settings. vcore is 1.072
> 
> thanks.


My temps are great, I have my 4770k @4.0 @stock vcore and my gpu to the h220x and the temps that I am seeing after 2-3 hrs of stress testing are as follows...CPU idles around 26c loads(max) 55c, gpu idles @20c fully loaded @42c


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The max temps in BF4 for CPU (at least for an 8320/8350) are really unreliable. In the loading screen it goes over 60C for a second or two. Actual gameplay is in the low 40's.


You really want averages over say a minute or two. I have often seen spikes on the core temp on my 8350, they don't matter much if they are just over a fraction of a second. I use Open Hardware Monitor to plot CPU temp, then I get a much better view and can note trends etc. A much needed feature when measuring CPU temp would be a moving average. Many other monitor programs like Hwinfo can also plot the values, care more about the plot than a maximum value that maybe only have been read for a fraction of a second, it might as well be an error.

I can get very silly high maximums if I run IBT AVX on my CPU, but the plot never even registers them as they are there only for a split second and probably is a false value.


----------



## dante`afk

does the Glacer 240L fit on graphic cards? evga 780ti ac sc respectively.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> hey there, I'd need your help and some other folks too who own H220X.
> 
> just a little ago I finished installing my H220X aaanddd it's either I'm doing something wrong or it's not really that impressive.
> 
> first of all I wanna mention that at full speed the pump is darn noisy(quite more noisy than my H105)
> 
> the CPU is 4790K motherboard is ROG VII Formula.
> 
> and besides that.. after installing I stressed it with latest Prime95(28.5) with small FFTs just for one minute, and these are the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you think these temps are normal for 4790K or maybe there is something wrong? honestly I don't think these temps are fine for a minute stress test with prime95.
> 
> idle temps are 32-33
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: no overclock everything runs at stock settings. vcore is 1.072
> 
> thanks.


Hi There, this is typical of an incorrect back-plate installation.

1. Make sure that the 2 notches in our backplate are correctly aligned with the two screws from Intel steel back-plate like shown here http://prntscr.com/4cs8ka
2. Once this is done, make sure that all 4 standoffs are properly pushed in thru the motherboard
3. put your thermal grease
4. Fasten the 4 spring loaded screw gradually and in a cross pattern till they bottom out.


----------



## VSG

Hey Gabe, just wanted to say I know what the mcp50x surprise is and I really, really hope you go ahead with it!

The pros far outweigh the cons (which are justified, I agree). I also now know over 8 people here itself who would want an mcp50x2- no pressure


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> does the Glacer 240L fit on graphic cards? evga 780ti ac sc respectively.


The CPU block*(forgot that the h220x is a block and not a combo) are not designed to fit on GPU's directly. They are too large for them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey Gabe, just wanted to say I know what the mcp50x surprise is and I really, really hope you go ahead with it!
> 
> The pros far outweigh the cons (which are justified, I agree). I also now know over 8 people here itself who would want an mcp50x2- no pressure


i want several actually !


----------



## NasaGT

i just would be happy if the H220-X or the Maelstrom V2 would be available in Germany / EU -.-

Im planning fot the H220-X but if the Maelstrom V2 gets here first, i think i would change the plan...


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hi There, this is typical of an incorrect back-plate installation.
> 
> 1. Make sure that the 2 notches in our backplate are correctly aligned with the two screws from Intel steel back-plate like shown here http://prntscr.com/4cs8ka
> 2. Once this is done, make sure that all 4 standoffs are properly pushed in thru the motherboard
> 3. put your thermal grease
> 4. Fasten the 4 spring loaded screw gradually and in a cross pattern till they bottom out.


thanks for pointing it out, when I first installed it I felt that there is something wrong with back plate installation, but still I'm not sure, that's why Id like to post some pics so you could tell me,




tell you this this much that two screws up there touch/falls under the back plate, so as far I as figured out they shouldn't be touching each other at all?

thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for pointing it out, when I first installed it I felt that there is something wrong with back plate installation, but still I'm not sure, that's why Id like to post some pics so you could tell me,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tell you this this much that two screws up there touch/falls under the back plate, so as far I as figured out they shouldn't be touching each other at all?
> 
> thanks.


You need to rotate the back plate so that the notch that runs along the right side is positioned at the top. That's why you're not getting a proper contact. Gabe beat me to it.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You need to rotate the back plate so that the notch that runs along the right side is positioned at the top. That's why you're not getting a proper contact. Gabe beat me to it.


awesome







let me give it a run see how it works out


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me give it a run see how it works out


Yes, you have to rotate the entire back plate to get the notched part to sit where the two screws are. That's why this notch is there.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you have to rotate the entire back plate to get the notched part to sit where the two screws are. That's why this notch is there.


Well, I did it, I rotated the whole back plate





but one thing strange I noticed when was installing, when I was securing the screws it didn't feel that it applies any pressure while screwing, it just kind of they went thru without appling more force to screw them further and they just came to dead stop suddenly, is this how it's supposed to be?

and after all this... I've run p95 again and I still hit the 86-87 and even idle temps went high, it's idling at 35-36


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> Well, I did it, I rotated the whole back plate
> 
> but one thing strange I noticed when was installing, when I was securing the screws it didn't feel that it applies any pressure while screwing, it just kind of they went thru without appling more force to screw them further and they just came to dead stop, is this how it's supposed to be?
> 
> and after all this... I've run p95 again and I still hit the 86-87 and even idle temps went high, it's idling at 35-36


You have the back plate oriented the right way. What are your ambient temperatures and the temperature inside of your case?


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You have the back plate oriented the right way. What are your ambient temperatures and the temperature inside of your case?


the ambitent in room is 23C, and the case temps(motherboard temp) is 30C

all fans and pump is plugged just like in instructions, I've followed HiTechLegions video and did everything just the way he showed, connected satas wia splitter, fans running at max speed so is the pump, I've put them running the highest.

you you answer me please the screwing block the the mobo part? because when I try to shake the block on CPU it obviously shakes/waves so I can tell it's not really really firmly sitting on the CPU because of the way the screws were going in, without applying much pressure as I'd screw them in and suddenly came to drop stop, is this normal?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> the ambitent in room is 23C, and the case temps(motherboard temp) is 30C
> 
> all fans and pump is plugged just like in instructions, I've followed HiTechLegions video and did everything just the way he showed, connected satas wia splitter, fans running at max speed so is the pump, I've put them running the highest.
> 
> you you answer me please the screwing block the the mobo part? because when I try to shake the block on CPU it obviously shakes/waves so I can tell it's not really really firmly sitting on the CPU because of the way the screws were going in, without applying much pressure as I'd screw them in and suddenly came to drop stop, is this normal?


Your case temp could be part of the reason that your CPU temps are high. You may need to improve the airflow in your case to reduce your internal case temperatures. There should be some resistance from the springs before you bottom out the screws. The reason for this could be that you may have damaged the plastic retention washers that help to keep tension on the springs. If you have them tightened down fully and the block is still able to be twisted on the CPU, then this is likely what your issue is and why your temperatures are still poor.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Your case temp could be part of the reason that your CPU temps are high. You may need to improve the airflow in your case to reduce your internal case temperatures. There should be some resistance from the springs before you bottom out the screws. The reason for this could be that you may have damaged the plastic retention washers that help to keep tension on the springs. If you have them tightened down fully and the block is still able to be twisted on the CPU, then this is likely what your issue is and why your temperatures are still poor.


I've decent airflow in the case, and I think 30C is pretty normal for in case temps as it should be 6-7 higher than your ambient temps which is the case with me now.

there is a little resistance from springs but not much, as I said while I secure them it comes to dead stop, it's not like applying more pressure would bottom it more, it just literally like dead stop that it won't go any further in any way. and what about washers how could I possible damaged all 4 of them? because all 4 screws just go bottom in the same feeling, and watching HighTechLegion's review the guys says it too, he says you should top screwing as it comes to a stop so that's what I did. the twist I get on block isn't really huge but definitely it's there and I can move it a little bit by putting a pressure with a hand







I dont know what else to try since these temps according to most aren't normal, but in case I'll post another pic after a minute p95 28.5 torture test so you might could notice something that causes this?

there settings are, 4x4.32GHz, 1.251v, P95 28.5V with small FFTs under a minute.



any ideas about this? thanks.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> the ambitent in room is 23C, and the case temps(motherboard temp) is 30C
> 
> all fans and pump is plugged just like in instructions, I've followed HiTechLegions video and did everything just the way he showed, connected satas wia splitter, fans running at max speed so is the pump, I've put them running the highest.
> 
> you you answer me please the screwing block the the mobo part? because when I try to shake the block on CPU it obviously shakes/waves so I can tell it's not really really firmly sitting on the CPU because of the way the screws were going in, without applying much pressure as I'd screw them in and suddenly came to drop stop, is this normal?


While you are trying to tighten the screws on the CPU block watch the nut on the backplate. If they are turning with he screw instead of being held by the backplate then you need to push the nut back into the backplate until it holds the nut and you can tighten. If you are able to wiggle the CPU block it is not mounted fully and need to get t fully tightened.


----------



## M3TAl

A wiggling block or any cooler for that matter is never a good thing. More pressure definitely needed.


----------



## AK-47

Where are you guys placing the included fan hub?
When will the H220X be in Stock again?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Where are you guys placing the included fan hub?
> When will the H220X be in Stock again?


These should be back in stock in the next week or so.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Where are you guys placing the included fan hub?
> When will the H220X be in Stock again?


Well, my splitter / hub won't stick to anything, so i just put it in the 5 1/4 bays of my 350D.

For Bryan



one 350D with an H220x shoe-horned in there.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Where are you guys placing the included fan hub?
> When will the H220X be in Stock again?


Put my PWM splitter on the side of the 5.25" bays, only place it would really fit. My cable management is a nightmare. Removed the included adhesive and used velcro instead.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> While you are trying to tighten the screws on the CPU block watch the nut on the backplate. If they are turning with he screw instead of being held by the backplate then you need to push the nut back into the backplate until it holds the nut and you can tighten. If you are able to wiggle the CPU block it is not mounted fully and need to get t fully tightened.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> A wiggling block or any cooler for that matter is never a good thing. More pressure definitely needed.


yeah but the thing is the screws won't bottom anymore, it like when I was securing them they would spin pretty easily without putting much effort, there is very little resistance from springs and when while I'm securing them there it just like suddenly comes to dead stop, it's not like as I screw them it becomes harder to spin the screw, it goes with the same ease to secure them and straight away you hit the dead stop position, and besides this, when I look at the screws they don't look as they could go any further, there is this thick part of the screw right? that when you tighten up this thick part comes up to the hole and it won't go through since its thicker(bigger) than the holes on mobo itself, so this part bottoms down entirely so it won't bottom more because that thick part just hits the mobo very tightly


----------



## Gir

While you Swiftech guys are here, when you expect the pump g 1/4 adapter to be in?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> yeah but the thing is the screws won't bottom anymore, it like when I was securing them they would spin pretty easily without putting much effort, there is very little resistance from springs and when while I'm securing them there it just like suddenly comes to dead stop, it's not like as I screw them it becomes harder to spin the screw, it goes with the same ease to secure them and straight away you hit the dead stop position, and besides this, when I look at the screws they don't look as they could go any further, there is this thick part of the screw right? that when you tighten up this thick part comes up to the hole and it won't go through since its thicker(bigger) than the holes on mobo itself, so this part bottoms down entirely so it won't bottom more because that thick part just hits the mobo very tightly


If you can post some pictures this will help greatly to understand your situation. It's kind of hard to gauge what you're talking about without pictures to reference it.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> yeah but the thing is the screws won't bottom anymore, it like when I was securing them they would spin pretty easily without putting much effort, there is very little resistance from springs and when while I'm securing them there it just like suddenly comes to dead stop, it's not like as I screw them it becomes harder to spin the screw, it goes with the same ease to secure them and straight away you hit the dead stop position, and besides this, when I look at the screws they don't look as they could go any further, there is this thick part of the screw right? that when you tighten up this thick part comes up to the hole and it won't go through since its thicker(bigger) than the holes on mobo itself, so this part bottoms down entirely so it won't bottom more because that thick part just hits the mobo very tightly


I don't think that swiftech would make a block that doesnt work. Im sure the holes on the mobo are standard as they all have to fit the stock intel cooler. I know when I was tightening mine down there was a point when it felt tight but a quick check on the backplate and the screws weren't all the way through. Keep tightning down and make sure to hold the nuts on the back plate because they will spin by now. The screws should stick out on the back plate a bit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gir*
> 
> While you Swiftech guys are here, when you expect the pump g 1/4 adapter to be in?


Hopefully we'll have them some time next week. I'll try to post it here as soon as they arrive.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These should be back in stock in the next week or so.


Not being able to keep an item in Stock because it's selling so fast is a good problem to have.
Still a problem though.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you can post some pictures this will help greatly to understand your situation. It's kind of hard to gauge what you're talking about without pictures to reference it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I don't think that swiftech would make a block that doesnt work. Im sure the holes on the mobo are standard as they all have to fit the stock intel cooler. I know when I was tightening mine down there was a point when it felt tight but a quick check on the backplate and the screws weren't all the way through. Keep tightning down and make sure to hold the nuts on the back plate because they will spin by now. The screws should stick out on the back plate a bit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> A wiggling block or any cooler for that matter is never a good thing. More pressure definitely needed.


the nuts are pretty tight, and they don't spin when I secure the screws, to make this simpler... screws have thinner head at the very end then middle of the screw right? so, the thing part that is twisted and supposed to be screwed into backplate is entirely screwed in, when this twisted part on screw is done the thicker part just firmly sits on the board and won't go any further, I'm sorry if I dont make much sense, I just don't know how else to describe this situation, besides that English is my 4th language and I've been in US for 3 years only lol so there are things I can't really explain well.

here are some pics, all four screws are tighten up the same way









the thing is when I run other stressing softs such as aida or intel burn test, they do go this high, its only when I run p96 28.5v with small FTTs then these temps go so high, I wonder if anybody could give me reference to their own temps in p95 28.5 small FTTs and all coures are 4.4GHz speed, would really appreciate it. thanks.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> the thing is when I run other stressing softs such as aida or intel burn test, they do go this high, its only when I run p96 28.5v with small FTTs then these temps go so high, I wonder if anybody could give me reference to their own temps in p95 28.5 small FTTs and all coures are 4.4GHz speed, would really appreciate it. thanks.


Just tried small fft and I had temps in the high 90's too. I'm at 4.5 with 1.315 vcore


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> the thing is when I run other stressing softs such as aida or intel burn test, they do go this high, its only when I run p96 28.5v with small FTTs then these temps go so high, I wonder if anybody could give me reference to their own temps in p95 28.5 small FTTs and all coures are 4.4GHz speed, would really appreciate it. thanks.


Sounds like the adaptive voltage mode for Vcore in z97, it throws too much Vcore when any form of prime is run which will raise your temps. For setting your cpu voltage you have 3 modes - manual, offset and adaptive. Try setting a manual voltage for stock, 1.2 should be safe and try again (if it locks up then bump it up in .1V increments until stable). If you have it set to Auto CPU voltage it may be using adaptive which might be the cause.

That you are able to wiggle the cpu block is still an issue but I'll defer to the Swiftech guys to help you troubleshoot.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> A wiggling block or any cooler for that matter is never a good thing. More pressure definitely needed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Sounds like the adaptive voltage mode for Vcore in z97, it throws too much Vcore when any form of prime is run which will raise your temps. For setting your cpu voltage you have 3 modes - manual, offset and adaptive. Try setting a manual voltage for stock, 1.2 should be safe and try again (if it locks up then bump it up in .1V increments until stable). If you have it set to Auto CPU voltage it may be using adaptive which might be the cause.
> 
> That you are able to wiggle the cpu block is still an issue but I'll defer to the Swiftech guys to help you troubleshoot.


thanks for your response once again, I guess I'll try to decrease the temps see if it works out, if not I guess I'd need to call technical support for Swiftech, I wonder if there have tech support here in US? thanks.


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> as far as I figured out you want me to put the vcore in BIOS which is 1.072v right now to 1.2v?
> 
> thanks for your response once again, I guess I'll try to decrease the temps see if it works out, if not I guess I'd need to call technical support for Swiftech, I wonder if there have tech support here in US? thanks.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Not being able to keep an item in Stock because it's selling so fast is a good problem to have.
> Still a problem though.


Hey, it's a hot item right now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for your response once again, I guess I'll try to decrease the temps see if it works out, if not I guess I'd need to call technical support for Swiftech, I wonder if there have tech support here in US? thanks.


Temps in stress testing can vary widely depending on the type of test and the settings/variables. I haven't stressed my 4670K in a while, but I remember temps in the 90's when using Linpack large data sets, and IBT extreme. Also FTP only in Aida64 can toast your CPU if not careful. Smaller data sets can actually stress your CPU more than
larger sets in Prime and OCCT if I remember correctly. Also be careful if you use adaptive voltage cause as other have stated it will raise your Vcore 0.100V above what you've set in BIOS. Only use manual input voltage when stressing the CPU and adjusting your OC.

Maybe do a few runs of Valley or 3D Mark 11 loops (if you have the full version). That way some of us can compare temps with you to see if they are still too high. I still have my H100i on the CPU and the H220X should be able to best it by at least a small margin. The other night I did a Valley run of an hour and the CPU maxed out at 58C. Let it run on a loop for at least twenty minutes to a half hour on extreme to get everything in your case warmed up and check your high in HWMonitor or HWinfo.


Larger View


----------



## Bruticis

Hey guys, quick question about the CM Glacer 240 install, if I may. I noticed one of the adhesive pads is missing on my mounting bracket. Is this going to be an issue or is it OK to install with the one missing pad? I kind of assumed the pads are more to help hold the bracket in place while it's secured. Secondly, I ordered a pair of Noctua NF-12 PWMs to replace the default fans but the fan screws that came with the Glacer are mighty small. Does anyone know where I can get some that are just a touch longer (or what size they are)? Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RetiredAssassin*
> 
> thanks for your response once again, I guess I'll try to decrease the temps see if it works out, if not I guess I'd need to call technical support for Swiftech, I wonder if there have tech support here in US? thanks.


Those may very well be normal temperatures for that particular stress test. As far as the ability to wiggle the block a little that also I think is normal. I'll have to check on these when I get into work in the morning.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Yeah they are selling fast they sold out before I could drive 15 minutes to the bank and deposit money lol


----------



## Tikiman

I have a question for BramSLI1. If the MCP50X can be used as an upgrade pump on the H220, does it void the warranty of the MCP50X to use it in this fashion? I only ask because of the "Warranty void if removed" sticker that is on the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> I have a question for BramSLI1. If the MCP50X can be used as an upgrade pump on the H220, does it void the warranty of the MCP50X to use it in this fashion? I only ask because of the "Warranty void if removed" sticker that is on the pump.


Unfortunately yes, if you take the MCP50X pump apart, and break the sticker, this does void your warranty. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## Caos

1 hour prime 95 small FFTs

good temps?

OC 4.5 , 1.17 Volts

81 °C degrees max core.

adjust the screws until it stops?


----------



## BramSLI1

We'll have more stock coming in of the H220-X either on Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Those that have missed out will be able to purchase these very soon.


----------



## springs113

Hey Bram I am looking to build another pc with my 750d case...I am a lil worried about bleeding the system though as I've yet to fully bleed my current system. The dilemma is however the h220x provides the best value but I would like to use my cylinder reservoir. I have had issues with bleeding the air but I want to use the cylinder res...tsk tsk.
I do want to buy the mcp50x though. How is it compared to the pump on the h220x?
How much of a difference is there between the mcp35x and the 50x?
Can I use any res on the mcp35x/50x?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Hey Bram I am looking to build another pc with my 750d case...I am a lil worried about bleeding the system though as I've yet to fully bleed my current system. The dilemma is however the h220x provides the best value but I would like to use my cylinder reservoir. I have had issues with bleeding the air but I want to use the cylinder res...tsk tsk.
> I do want to buy the mcp50x though. How is it compared to the pump on the h220x?
> How much of a difference is there between the mcp35x and the 50x?
> Can I use any res on the mcp35x/50x?


The difference between these two pumps is very similar to the difference between the older H220 pump and our MCP35X. In other words there is quite a bit of difference, particularly if you plan on expanding the loop. The housing that the MCP50X comes with features 2 G 1/4 female ports so you can use any fittings and therefore just about any cylinder reservoir on the market. Aftermarket reservoir mods won't work because this isn't a Laing based pump.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Hey Bram I am looking to build another pc with my 750d case...I am a lil worried about bleeding the system though as I've yet to fully bleed my current system. The dilemma is however the h220x provides the best value but I would like to use my cylinder reservoir. I have had issues with bleeding the air but I want to use the cylinder res...tsk tsk.
> I do want to buy the mcp50x though. How is it compared to the pump on the h220x?
> How much of a difference is there between the mcp35x and the 50x?
> Can I use any res on the mcp35x/50x?


MCP35X vs MCP50X as per the data provided by Swiftech.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The difference between these two pumps is very similar to the difference between the older H220 pump and our MCP35X. In other words there is quite a bit of difference, particularly if you plan on expanding the loop. The housing that the MCP50X comes with features 2 G 1/4 female ports so you can use any fittings and therefore just about any cylinder reservoir on the market. Aftermarket reservoir mods won't work because this isn't a Laing based pump.


I plan to at least cool the cpu/mobo/gpu at least one gpu..but I think I will add a second gpu. I do plan to o/c too. Which direction would you go?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I plan to at least cool the cpu/mobo/gpu at least one gpu..but I think I will add a second gpu. I do plan to o/c too. Which direction would you go?


What do you mean?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you mean?


I thought I wrote it out but I guess it was all in my head

I was referring to buying another h220x or go with the mcp35/50x and a block combo?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I thought I wrote it out but I guess it was all in my head
> 
> I was referring to buying another h220x or go with the mcp35/50x and a block combo?


With what you have in mind I would go with the MCP50X and block combo so that you'll have more expansion head pressure.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> With what you have in mind I would go with the MCP50X and block combo so that you'll have more expansion head pressure.


Is the pump that much better in comparison to the one on the 220x?
I currently run the 220x with a 4770k @4ghz, 780 hydro copper and the mobo cooled and my max temps so far after about 4 hours of stress testing is 56c on the cpu and 42 on the gpu. Is the pump on the 220x rated to add another 780 If I wanted to?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Is the pump that much better in comparison to the one on the 220x?
> I currently run the 220x with a 4770k @4ghz, 780 hydro copper and the mobo cooled and my max temps so far after about 4 hours of stress testing is 56c on the cpu and 42 on the gpu. Is the pump on the 220x rated to add another 780 If I wanted to?


I was thinking that you were also going to add another radiator as well. If you're not then the pump in the 220X should be fine. Even if you were to add a second GPU and radiator it should still be fine. I would just want go with a stronger pump for peace of mind. That's just me though and you asked.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Is the pump that much better in comparison to the one on the 220x?
> I currently run the 220x with a 4770k @4ghz, 780 hydro copper and the mobo cooled and my max temps so far after about 4 hours of stress testing is 56c on the cpu and 42 on the gpu. Is the pump on the 220x rated to add another 780 If I wanted to?


Either way will work, but you will have more flow and better temps with the MCP50X. IMO the way to do it, since you already have the H220X, is add the MCP50X into the loop but keep the MCP30X in the H220X, so you have both of them running for redundancy.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Either way will work, but you will have more flow and better temps with the MCP50X. IMO the way to do it, since you already have the H220X, is add the MCP50X into the loop but keep the MCP30X in the H220X, so you have both of them running for redundancy.


Very good point and an excellent suggestion.


----------



## VSG

^ True. But if adding both pumps, then don't control them together using a PWM splitter since the range of one pump is much higher than that of the other. Custom pump curves would be best if possible.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very good point and an excellent suggestion.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Either way will work, but you will have more flow and better temps with the MCP50X. IMO the way to do it, since you already have the H220X, is add the MCP50X into the loop but keep the MCP30X in the H220X, so you have both of them running for redundancy.


I am new to watercooling , the h220 was my first venture into this territory then came the 220x...so lets put it this way how would i go about having dual pumps with dual res?

My specs are as follows
gigabyte wifi z97 (watercooled chipset)
4770k
16gb gskill
780 hydro copper
seasonic 1200w platinum psu
420 ut45 rad
h220x
360 xflow black ice nemesis.

Bram you remember my system I just built in the 900D...I would migrate that to the 750 less the 420 rad of course and use the 360 xflow at the top with the h220x @ the front.

With that info how would i run dual pump?
current

old


----------



## M3TAl

You never need more than one res technically. Are you going for two res for design/looks?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Hey Bram could you tell me the thread dept on the h220x rad please, or point me to it.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Hey Bram could you tell me the thread dept on the h220x rad please, or point me to it.
> 
> Thanks


Here's the information on the kit http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx#tab2.


----------



## Caos

doubt, the screws are adjusted all the way? not would damage the cpu? the waterblock this firm


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's the information on the kit http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx#tab2.


Doesn't really say any thread dept, but no worries. Thanks anyways


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You never need more than one res technically. Are you going for two res for design/looks?


I always had that res before anything so I was just trying to incorporate it in...but I think I will just get the mcp50x take out the h220x rad and use it with my h220 i guess.


----------



## M3TAl

You can run multiple pumps but one res. Just the initial pump to fill/bleed the system needs to be after the res. The other pumps can be put anywhere. Just don't turn them on until the loop is full.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You can run multiple pumps but one res. Just the initial pump to fill/bleed the system needs to be after the res. The other pumps can be put anywhere. Just don't turn them on until the loop is full.


IN this case my 220 and 220x would be working in tandem.


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,just got mine in today and excited,already working on it....but i have 1150 socket,the box says 1155,can i still mount it? or do i need a separate mounting bracket? amother thing,do i have to do something now for the air bubbles??? my first time doing this but been keeping up with this board for about a month now.please let me know asap anyone..thanks


----------



## VSG

Socket 1155 and 1150 are identical as far as cooling goes.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Socket 1155 and 1150 are identical as far as cooling goes.


So i can follow the 1155 instruction guide?


----------



## VSG

Yes


----------



## Bludge

@ BramSLI1

I have a collection of your older original H20 kits here, 2 220 and a 320, would it be possible to run the H220X in the top of my case and the 320 (360 rad) in the bottom on the same loop?

At this point I envisage that the loop order would be

H220X -> CPU -> GPU -> GPU -> H20-320 -> H220X

thanks.


----------



## Radmanhs

Im getting real sick of this... This is the 3rd H220 Ive received from RMA's and as far as I can tell its still broken. It doesn't make extreme noises anymore, but it is still loud. Unless my hearing is so superb this is loud to only me, this is the third flawed cooler I've gotten from swiftech. O, btw, did I forget to mention this is the same cooler I sent back because of the pump problem, because it is. The difference is that the pump part seems to have been replaced because there is a plug that connects to the pump itself instead of a wire going out of the pump that connects to the splitter. Even when I had the stock air cooler on, it was quiet when my door was open, but all I can hear is my pump when the door is open now. I would like to see Swiftech step up their act and do something about this problem that I have constantly been having.


----------



## BangBangPlay

I have a relatively quiet pump, the EK 2.2 for my GPU loop and it is slightly audible. It is very slight hum, like a fish tank, but it doesn't bother me at all. I actually can't hear it unless the room is entirely quiet. It's the end of summer so the AC is usually on. That and there isn't much peace with a two year old in the house. I also have an H100i (till my H220X arrives next week!) and I have never actually heard the pump make any noise.

I don't know exactly what type of noise/vibration your pump makes, so I can't really compare. I think all pumps are going to create some vibration, especially if they are powerful. Is it a vibration type hum? Or does it create a specific sound that gives you the impression it's not running properly?

I have seen many people post here asking for some confirmation the H220X's pump is running/ working, so that is a pretty good indication that it should be quiet. But that's a different pump. What speed do you run it at?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I have a relatively quiet pump, the EK 2.2 for my GPU loop and it is slightly audible. It is very slight hum, like a fish tank, but it doesn't bother me at all. I actually can't hear it unless the room is entirely quiet. It's the end of summer so the AC is usually on. That and there isn't much peace with a two year old in the house. I also have an H100i (till my H220X arrives next week!) and I have never actually heard the pump make any noise.
> 
> I don't know exactly what type of noise/vibration your pump makes, so I can't really compare. I think all pumps are going to create some vibration, especially if they are powerful. Is it a vibration type hum? Or does it create a specific sound that gives you the impression it's not running properly?
> 
> I have seen many people post here asking for some confirmation the H220X's pump is running/ working, so that is a pretty good indication that it should be quiet. But that's a different pump. What speed do you run it at?


It's interesting that your pump (re-branded Jingway DP-400) makes a hum/vibration noise. My DP-600 doesn't at all, or maybe it's the way I mounted it. Maybe I have it really well de-coupled or something. Mine does make the tinniest clicking noise which is completely inaudible with the side panels on. Barely audible with all side panels off.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Im getting real sick of this... This is the 3rd H220 Ive received from RMA's and as far as I can tell its still broken. It doesn't make extreme noises anymore, but it is still loud. Unless my hearing is so superb this is loud to only me, this is the third flawed cooler I've gotten from swiftech. O, btw, did I forget to mention this is the same cooler I sent back because of the pump problem, because it is. The difference is that the pump part seems to have been replaced because there is a plug that connects to the pump itself instead of a wire going out of the pump that connects to the splitter. Even when I had the stock air cooler on, it was quiet when my door was open, but all I can hear is my pump when the door is open now. I would like to see Swiftech step up their act and do something about this problem that I have constantly been having.


Have it replaced with the H220X pump


----------



## ironhide138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Have it replaced with the H220X pump


thats pretty much impossible.


----------



## Dry Bonez

someone help please,its almost 3am here and im still trying.im just trying to take the stupid back plate of the h220-x.i cant seem to remove it.there are 4 flat plates preventing me from removing backplate.i tried turning them and stil nothing.my fingers hurt from trying so much.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> someone help please,its almost 3am here and im still trying.im just trying to take the stupid back plate of the h220-x.i cant seem to remove it.there are 4 flat plates preventing me from removing backplate.i tried turning them and stil nothing.my fingers hurt from trying so much.


What do you mean exactly? If you are placing your hands over the backplate and make sure the little hexagonal nut don't move then you should have no issues removing the backplate.


----------



## Radmanhs

I have mine set to what should be about 40%, but some reason it doesnt just have a single 4 pin connector, it has a sata connector on 1 side of the cable, and a 4 pin on the other side which is connected to my splitter, but I'm kinda confused, do you need the sata power? Since it doesn't change the speed of the pump when i change the fan speed on my computer.


----------



## M3TAl

The 4 pin plug is for RPM reading and PWM control only. All power is provided by the SATA connector. If you only hook up the SATA then it will run full 3000 RPM 24/7.

If the pump RPM isn't changing then your board either doesn't have true PWM, the cable isn't hooked up to a true PWM header, or you need to change some BIOS settings to enable true PWM control.


----------



## Radmanhs

so can i just hook up the 4 pin so i can actually adjust the speed, while still giving it power?


----------



## M3TAl

The SATA has to be connected for power. The 4 pin is technically optional, it provides PWM control and RPM reading. Make sure the 4 pin is connected to the splitter and the splitter to your CPU header. Only the RPM from CH1 will be reported. Meaning either put the pump on CH1 if you want pump RPM or a fan on CH1 for fan RPM. Make sure the CPU header is actually set to PWM control not voltage.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Have it replaced with the H220X pump
> 
> 
> 
> thats pretty much impossible.
Click to expand...

How is that impossible??


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> What do you mean exactly? If you are placing your hands over the backplate and make sure the little hexagonal nut don't move then you should have no issues removing the backplate.


i just opened up the box and wanted t look to look at the waterblock,ann the backplate is attached.....well anyway,im stuck trying to take it out.


----------



## Dry Bonez

someone plz reply.i really cant take out the backplate.its being blocked by some hexagon looking screws


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> someone plz reply.i really cant take out the backplate.its being blocked by some hexagon looking screws


Do you have some pliers to hold the hex nuts?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> someone plz reply.i really cant take out the backplate.its being blocked by some hexagon looking screws


Hold the hex nuts while turning


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Im getting real sick of this... This is the 3rd H220 Ive received from RMA's and as far as I can tell its still broken. It doesn't make extreme noises anymore, but it is still loud. Unless my hearing is so superb this is loud to only me, this is the third flawed cooler I've gotten from swiftech. O, btw, did I forget to mention this is the same cooler I sent back because of the pump problem, because it is. The difference is that the pump part seems to have been replaced because there is a plug that connects to the pump itself instead of a wire going out of the pump that connects to the splitter. Even when I had the stock air cooler on, it was quiet when my door was open, but all I can hear is my pump when the door is open now. I would like to see Swiftech step up their act and do something about this problem that I have constantly been having.


This would seem to indicate that you have an upgraded pump as the original H220 pump has wires coming out of the unit itself & no plug; as you stated. I would venture to say that it has been upgraded with a H220X pump. Completely flush your system & use enough coolant mix, not just distilled water. Since the H220X pump is an upgrade from the original H220 pump it is probably going to be slightly louder. Also spend the time to bleed the system really well.


----------



## Caos

hello, doubt, the screws of h220x are adjusted all the way? not would damage the cpu? the waterblock this firm.

longer bolts for fans where you can get? can you tell me the measurements of the screws?

thanks..


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, doubt, the screws of h220x are adjusted all the way? not would damage the cpu? the waterblock this firm.
> 
> longer bolts for fans where you can get? can you tell me the measurements of the screws?
> 
> thanks..


Most long fan screws (there are short ones too) are 4mm in width and about 25-45mm or so in length (most are around 30mm give or take) - I have bought them on FrozenCPU and Amazon mostly - but you can order them from other places too (eBay, Micro Center, NewEgg, etc.,)

Here is a listing on Amazon for some long fan screws I got recently:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TBPOL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The length can be as important as the width - you don't want to run the risk of puncturing a radiator if you are installing a fan in a rad! Know the length you need when installing for a rad - for just a case fan you don't need to be as careful as long as the screw is long enough to span the width of the fan assembly and just over enough to make a secure grip and not so long as it might constitute a danger to equipment or more importantly - your hand!









ACQ


----------



## cennis

can anyone comment on the pump noise vs a D5?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i just opened up the box and wanted t look to look at the waterblock,ann the backplate is attached.....well anyway,im stuck trying to take it out.


How did you just open up the box? I thought these have been out of stock? Ive been checking the swiftech web page multiple times per day


----------



## Dry Bonez

this thing has been the worse thing i have EVER put on,i been working on this h220 x for about 6 hours and man oh man,its hard as hell. the instructions dont even tell you much.much props to those who got it one try....anyway,i havent plugged in my hdd or anything,only thing hooked up is my cpu,psu,mobo,and thats about it,so wen i turn the pc on via mobo(asus z87 deluxe) button,the waterblock turns on but i cant see the res. turn on...is it because i dont have anything hooked up? i installed the sata cable and the headers to the control thingy...now what?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> How did you just open up the box? I thought these have been out of stock? Ive been checking the swiftech web page multiple times per day


there was a shipment last week shipping is probably ups ground 5 to 7 day


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Im getting real sick of this... This is the 3rd H220 Ive received from RMA's and as far as I can tell its still broken. It doesn't make extreme noises anymore, but it is still loud. Unless my hearing is so superb this is loud to only me, this is the third flawed cooler I've gotten from swiftech. O, btw, did I forget to mention this is the same cooler I sent back because of the pump problem, because it is. The difference is that the pump part seems to have been replaced because there is a plug that connects to the pump itself instead of a wire going out of the pump that connects to the splitter. Even when I had the stock air cooler on, it was quiet when my door was open, but all I can hear is my pump when the door is open now. I would like to see Swiftech step up their act and do something about this problem that I have constantly been having.


If the unit wasn't leaking, then the pump would be the only thing that could fail, so it would be standard for a company as Swiftech to only replace the pump in an RMA. The pump you have is definitely the new MCP30X from the H220X, which is slightly louder than the old H220 pump. That being said, excessive noise is most likely an air bubble, which could be having issues going away if the unit has a large bubble and is running full tilt. That being said, what speed are you running it at? Have you tried turning the RPMs down? And how do you have it hooked up? I'm assuming the new pump in your case has the newer connections as well, that require a SATA plug for pump power?

Edit- just saw your later posts-

As was mentioned, if the pump speed isn't changing than the motherboard header you have it plugged into is running on voltage control, not PWM control, hence why the pump is running full speed. Not all 4 pin headers are PWM; as a matter of fact most are not except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. Very few Mobos can run PWM on the other headers even though they may say they do.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> Most long fan screws (there are short ones too) are 4mm in width and about 25-45mm or so in length (most are around 30mm give or take) - I have bought them on FrozenCPU and Amazon mostly - but you can order them from other places too (eBay, Micro Center, NewEgg, etc.,)
> 
> Here is a listing on Amazon for some long fan screws I got recently:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TBPOL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> The length can be as important as the width - you don't want to run the risk of puncturing a radiator if you are installing a fan in a rad! Know the length you need when installing for a rad - for just a case fan you don't need to be as careful as long as the screw is long enough to span the width of the fan assembly and just over enough to make a secure grip and not so long as it might constitute a danger to equipment or more importantly - your hand!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ACQ


damage my hand it's self healing the equipment is not lol. But I digress bleeding on the equipment isn't allowed either so move the hand fast


----------



## Dry Bonez

pleease help...my res. isnt turning on!! ugh,i better not have a defect.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> pleease help...my res. isnt turning on!! ugh,i better not have a defect.


Did you plug the black PWM into port 1 on the splitter (its cover is a different color than all the other covers), and the SATA power to a connector?


----------



## Jperture

Would it void my warranty if I remove the Swiftech Logo Sticker from the radiator on my H220X?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> Most long fan screws (there are short ones too) are 4mm in width and about 25-45mm or so in length (most are around 30mm give or take) - I have bought them on FrozenCPU and Amazon mostly - but you can order them from other places too (eBay, Micro Center, NewEgg, etc.,)
> 
> Here is a listing on Amazon for some long fan screws I got recently:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TBPOL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> The length can be as important as the width - you don't want to run the risk of puncturing a radiator if you are installing a fan in a rad! Know the length you need when installing for a rad - for just a case fan you don't need to be as careful as long as the screw is long enough to span the width of the fan assembly and just over enough to make a secure grip and not so long as it might constitute a danger to equipment or more importantly - your hand!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ACQ


thanks for the reply.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Im getting real sick of this... This is the 3rd H220 Ive received from RMA's and as far as I can tell its still broken. It doesn't make extreme noises anymore, but it is still loud. Unless my hearing is so superb this is loud to only me, this is the third flawed cooler I've gotten from swiftech. O, btw, did I forget to mention this is the same cooler I sent back because of the pump problem, because it is. The difference is that the pump part seems to have been replaced because there is a plug that connects to the pump itself instead of a wire going out of the pump that connects to the splitter. Even when I had the stock air cooler on, it was quiet when my door was open, but all I can hear is my pump when the door is open now. I would like to see Swiftech step up their act and do something about this problem that I have constantly been having.


This pump was replaced with our new MCP30X pump. These are the same pumps used in the H220X and therefore they are going to be a little noisier in your configuration. You need to have both connectors plugged in for full functionality. The SATA connector provides power and the four pin PWM connector provides RPM monitoring and speed control. Make sure though that your PWM connector is connected to a true PWM header or you won't get any control at all. Let me know if this resolves your issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> thats pretty much impossible.


It's not impossible because the H220X pumps are what we use now to replace defective H220 pumps. I've been doing this for a while now, so it's quite possible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I have mine set to what should be about 40%, but some reason it doesnt just have a single 4 pin connector, it has a sata connector on 1 side of the cable, and a 4 pin on the other side which is connected to my splitter, but I'm kinda confused, do you need the sata power? Since it doesn't change the speed of the pump when i change the fan speed on my computer.


This tells me that you're likely not using a true PWM header and that's why your pump is still noisy because it's running at full speed. These pumps are going to be a little noisier in these H220 configurations because of the H220 housing. This is normal, but it shouldn't have any affect on the performance of the kit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> pleease help...my res. isnt turning on!! ugh,i better not have a defect.


It's possible that the reservoir connector came loose. This does happen from time to time during shipping. There is a two pin connector that you'll see has come detached from the other end. Just plug these back together and your reservoir will light up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jperture*
> 
> Would it void my warranty if I remove the Swiftech Logo Sticker from the radiator on my H220X?


No.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there was a shipment last week shipping is probably ups ground 5 to 7 day


I dont know how I missed it. I was checking multiple times per day.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's interesting that your pump (re-branded Jingway DP-400) makes a hum/vibration noise. My DP-600 doesn't at all, or maybe it's the way I mounted it. Maybe I have it really well de-coupled or something. Mine does make the tinniest clicking noise which is completely inaudible with the side panels on. Barely audible with all side panels off.


It is very faint, but there is a very low hum. I am using the mounting bracket and currently I only have it fixed with one screw. I plan to move it over slightly when the H220X goes in, so I am waiting to drill the right hole pattern and fasten it more securely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I dont know how I missed it. I was checking multiple times per day.


Someone posted that they were in stock and I immediately bought one. They were out of stock a few hours later. So my advise is be quick and check often...


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Someone posted that they were in stock and I immediately bought one. They were out of stock a few hours later. So my advise is be quick and check often...


I figured checking every couple of hours (sometimes multiple times an hour) wouldve done it. I cant keep waiting on them. I've called, theyve told me when to check back, I did, got nothing every time. I dont understand why they couldnt of just taken a pre-order from me. I wouldve gladly paid for it ahead of time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I figured checking every couple of hours (sometimes multiple times an hour) wouldve done it. I cant keep waiting on them. I've called, theyve told me when to check back, I did, got nothing every time. I dont understand why they couldnt of just taken a pre-order from me. I wouldve gladly paid for it ahead of time.


We have them coming back in on Tuesday or Wednesday of this week. PM me and I'll see what I can do for you. The reason that they went so fast when we had them in stock last week is that these were just a few that our factory sent us. We have a full order coming on Tuesday or Wednesday.


----------



## nado4ilhas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We have them coming back in on Tuesday or Wednesday of this week. PM me and I'll see what I can do for you. The reason that they went so fast when we had them in stock last week is that these were just a few that our factory sent us. We have a full order coming on Tuesday or Wednesday.


I wonder when H240X will be available?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I figured checking every couple of hours (sometimes multiple times an hour) wouldve done it. I cant keep waiting on them. I've called, theyve told me when to check back, I did, got nothing every time. I dont understand why they couldnt of just taken a pre-order from me. I wouldve gladly paid for it ahead of time.


Keep checking because last time they came in stock it was at a totally random day/time. You can preorder them from NCIX I believe but it won't be available until the 30th of this month. I also saw someone post that either Performance PCs or Frozen CPU had them in stock, maybe worth a check...


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone,finally done.enjoy. case is cooler master storm stryker.will take more if requested.anyway,i installed it and it was a pain in the butt.what are normal temps at 4.5mhz for 4670k? i ran intel burn test and put the settings on very high aaaaand my oh my,my core was at 100....idk much about temps,but thats not good is it?


----------



## Dudewitbow

isn't 1.358v pretty high of a voltage?(you should only really touch high voltage Delidded situation or by luck) It should easily be able to have much lower voltages at only 4.5ghz (on a side note, please, do not use potato pics of on screen data when you can take a clear screenshot on the computer itself)


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> isn't 1.358v pretty high of a voltage?(you should only really touch high voltage Delidded situation or by luck) It should easily be able to have much lower voltages at only 4.5ghz (on a side note, please, do not use potato pics of on screen data when you can take a clear screenshot on the computer itself)


what the heck is a potato pic?? lol.and the reason the voltage was even that high was because during that screenshot,it was doing the intel burn test on very high settings.


----------



## Dudewitbow

are you using automatic voltage tuning of any sort? its recommended to not really use automatic voltage due to the fact that it always overestimates voltage for stability at the cost of temperature. Manually set voltages

a potato pic is any generally blurry picture, usually caused when you take a picture of any type of screen, when you could have easily just pressed print screen on the computer, or used windows snipping tool(windows key + type "snip" + enter) and uploaded a direct image of the page(independent to refresh rate) rather than a screenshot of the screen(which quality depends on camera movement and the refreshrate)


----------



## BangBangPlay

@Dry Bonez

Hit "print screen" to record a photo and open paint and select "paste". Your picture will appear and you can then edit (make highlights, crop sections, etc) and save it as several different file types...

I also suggest you lower that voltage to around 1.250V or even lower. I run 1.225V for 4.6 GHz on my 4670K, although that is a pretty low voltage chip. Don't let your temps go over 90C for any prolonged period of time, and always monitor the temps when running stress tests. Some blend tests (Prime for example) can start at low temps and then jump 15 mins later when it changes the data sets. Read the first post of the Haswell Overclocking Thread (with stats) for a great general OCing guide, tips, and stats/voltages of other members.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Dry Bonez
> 
> Hit "print screen" to record a photo and open paint and select "paste". Your picture will appear and you can then edit (make highlights, crop sections, etc) and save it as several different file types...
> 
> I also suggest you lower that voltage to around 1.250V or even lower. I run 1.225V for 4.6 GHz on my 4670K, although that is a pretty low voltage chip. Don't let your temps go over 90C for any prolonged period of time, and always monitor the temps when running stress tests. Some blend tests (Prime for example) can start at low temps and then jump 15 mins later when it changes the data sets. Read the first post of the Haswell Overclocking Thread (with stats) for a great general OCing guide, tips, and stats/voltages of other members.


Awesome...bad news,and immgetting extremely upset and furious,my H220-x is acting up.although it is installed,but my pc is so unstable its just unbelievable.when i get a BSOD,it states "kmode extension not handled".i then googled that and it states its a hardware issue....i never had that issue with my noctua nh d14.i also could be @4.4-4.5 with noctua. Now with my h220 x i get random BSOD,i even tried playing resident evil 5(yea its old),but i played just perfectly with the noctua,but now when i played,not even a minute into it,i heard a weird sound,even when i push start and when imexited,BSOD with error "Kmode extension not handled".. i know it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Dry Bonez
> 
> Hit "print screen" to record a photo and open paint and select "paste". Your picture will appear and you can then edit (make highlights, crop sections, etc) and save it as several different file types...
> 
> I also suggest you lower that voltage to around 1.250V or even lower. I run 1.225V for 4.6 GHz on my 4670K, although that is a pretty low voltage chip. Don't let your temps go over 90C for any prolonged period of time, and always monitor the temps when running stress tests. Some blend tests (Prime for example) can start at low temps and then jump 15 mins later when it changes the data sets. Read the first post of the Haswell Overclocking Thread (with stats) for a great general OCing guide, tips, and stats/voltages of other members.


Awesome!! but listen,i have BAD news and its getting me extremely furious. ever since i installed my H220 X,its been giving me all sorts of issues.instability,random BSOD,i tried playing Resident Evil 5(yea its old lol) not too long ago,and not even a minute into it and i hear a weird sound and when i went to exit,BSOD with error "kmode extension not handled. So i google that and it states corrupt hardware or hardware related. I NEVER had an issue with my Noctua NH d14. NEVER! so anyway,i cant even get to a stable 4.4-4.5 OC with this stupid thing. it has really upset me and im beyond furious. then my mobo starting to act weird even in the bios(asus z87 deluxe),it will freeze and more importatnly,my main boot drive(samsung 840 pro ssd) wont even be recognized and when i reset the pc or anything,goes straight to bios. but again,i NEVER EVER encountered this with my noctua nh d14. and yes,i have my bios updated,i have all my drivers uploaded. Im beyond furious as i said. idk what to do anymore.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Okay you need to calm down and provide exact details. Do you have a BSOD viewer? You are blaming something that will most likely NOT cause a problem unless installed incorrectly. Download or post the Blue screen error. More than just 'Kmode extension......"


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Okay you need to calm down and provide exact details. Do you have a BSOD viewer? You are blaming something that will most likely NOT cause a problem unless installed incorrectly. Download or post the Blue screen error. More than just 'Kmode extension......"


how can i take a pic of a BSOD?? and im more than likely its the h220 x buddy.im certain it is.main issue is instabiity.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how can i take a pic of a BSOD?? and im more than likely its the h220 x buddy.im certain it is.main issue is instabiity.


http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html


----------



## BangBangPlay

@DryBonez

I would suspect the high voltage as a culprit. The H220X should provide slightly better temps, especially when overclocking. One thing to remember, you still need airflow over the MB. Your old air cooler likely generated some airflow over your board. Which way is your H220X set, for intake or exhaust? If you are running a voltage of over 1.3V you should have your case fans set up to provide plenty of cool air to you MB. I'd set the H220X up as exhaust and direct your rear fan as intake to supply it and your MB and RAM with cool air. Just because the CPU is under water doesn't mean that everything else on your board is.

I'd recommend lowering that voltage and also make sure not to use adaptive voltage if you plan to do any stress testing. Games and benchmarks are ok though and that is sometimes a better way to test real world temps anyways. Synthetic stress tests are for stability testing and voltage adjustments. Also make sure your back plate is installed with the two rounded edges facing the corresponding screws on the back of your MB. This is a common mistake with these types of water blocks. Those temps could be caused by a number of things. Many people buy water cooling and just rush into overclocking thinking they are all set, but it is more complicated than just cranking your multiplier and voltage. I'll tell you from my experience with Haswell, anything over 1.3V is too much for most AIO cooling solutions. If you want to stay at that voltage you'll likely have to add another rad. Did you use that voltage with the Noctua cooler too??!!


----------



## RetiredAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @DryBonez
> 
> I would suspect the high voltage as a culprit. The H220X should provide slightly better temps, especially when overclocking. One thing to remember, you still need airflow over the MB. Your old air cooler likely generated some airflow over your board. Which way is your H220X set, for intake or exhaust? If you are running a voltage of over 1.3V you should have your case fans set up to provide plenty of cool air to you MB. I'd set the H220X up as exhaust and direct your rear fan as intake to supply it and your MB and RAM with cool air. Just because the CPU is under water doesn't mean that everything else on your board is.
> 
> I'd recommend lowering that voltage and also make sure not to use adaptive voltage if you plan to do any stress testing. Games and benchmarks are ok though and that is sometimes a better way to test real world temps anyways. Synthetic stress tests are for stability testing and voltage adjustments. Also make sure your back plate is installed with the two rounded edges facing the corresponding screws on the back of your MB. This is a common mistake with these types of water blocks. Those temps could be caused by a number of things. Many people buy water cooling and just rush into overclocking thinking they are all set, but it is more complicated than just cranking your multiplier and voltage. I'll tell you from my experience with Haswell, anything over 1.3V is too much for most AIO cooling solutions. If you want to stay at that voltage you'll likely have to add another rad. Did you use that voltage with the Noctua cooler too??!!


I think I can set a record of owning the worst 4790K chip ever lol... I've H220X and Asus VII Formula, and guess what? I CAN NOT get 4.7GHz stable EVEN WITH 1.45V... this is mad right? I need to crank up VCORE to 1.3V for 4.6GHz stable. In other words... I simply can't get 4.7GHz under 1.45V... how could possible this happen with me


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Dry Bonez
> 
> Hit "print screen" to record a photo and open paint and select "paste". Your picture will appear and you can then edit (make highlights, crop sections, etc) and save it as several different file types...
> 
> I also suggest you lower that voltage to around 1.250V or even lower. I run 1.225V for 4.6 GHz on my 4670K, although that is a pretty low voltage chip. Don't let your temps go over 90C for any prolonged period of time, and always monitor the temps when running stress tests. Some blend tests (Prime for example) can start at low temps and then jump 15 mins later when it changes the data sets. Read the first post of the Haswell Overclocking Thread (with stats) for a great general OCing guide, tips, and stats/voltages of other members.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome...bad news,and immgetting extremely upset and furious,my H220-x is acting up.although it is installed,but my pc is so unstable its just unbelievable.when i get a BSOD,it states "kmode extension not handled".i then googled that and it states its a hardware issue....i never had that issue with my noctua nh d14.i also could be @4.4-4.5 with noctua. Now with my h220 x i get random BSOD,i even tried playing resident evil 5(yea its old),but i played just perfectly with the noctua,but now when i played,not even a minute into it,i heard a weird sound,even when i push start and when imexited,BSOD with error "Kmode extension not handled".. i know it
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Dry Bonez
> 
> Hit "print screen" to record a photo and open paint and select "paste". Your picture will appear and you can then edit (make highlights, crop sections, etc) and save it as several different file types...
> 
> I also suggest you lower that voltage to around 1.250V or even lower. I run 1.225V for 4.6 GHz on my 4670K, although that is a pretty low voltage chip. Don't let your temps go over 90C for any prolonged period of time, and always monitor the temps when running stress tests. Some blend tests (Prime for example) can start at low temps and then jump 15 mins later when it changes the data sets. Read the first post of the Haswell Overclocking Thread (with stats) for a great general OCing guide, tips, and stats/voltages of other members.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome!! but listen,i have BAD news and its getting me extremely furious. ever since i installed my H220 X,its been giving me all sorts of issues.instability,random BSOD,i tried playing Resident Evil 5(yea its old lol) not too long ago,and not even a minute into it and i hear a weird sound and when i went to exit,BSOD with error "kmode extension not handled. So i google that and it states corrupt hardware or hardware related. I NEVER had an issue with my Noctua NH d14. NEVER! so anyway,i cant even get to a stable 4.4-4.5 OC with this stupid thing. it has really upset me and im beyond furious. then my mobo starting to act weird even in the bios(asus z87 deluxe),it will freeze and more importatnly,my main boot drive(samsung 840 pro ssd) wont even be recognized and when i reset the pc or anything,goes straight to bios. but again,i NEVER EVER encountered this with my noctua nh d14. and yes,i have my bios updated,i have all my drivers uploaded. Im beyond furious as i said. idk what to do anymore.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @DryBonez
> 
> I would suspect the high voltage as a culprit. The H220X should provide slightly better temps, especially when overclocking. One thing to remember, you still need airflow over the MB. Your old air cooler likely generated some airflow over your board. Which way is your H220X set, for intake or exhaust? If you are running a voltage of over 1.3V you should have your case fans set up to provide plenty of cool air to you MB. I'd set the H220X up as exhaust and direct your rear fan as intake to supply it and your MB and RAM with cool air. Just because the CPU is under water doesn't mean that everything else on your board is.
> 
> I'd recommend lowering that voltage and also make sure not to use adaptive voltage if you plan to do any stress testing. Games and benchmarks are ok though and that is sometimes a better way to test real world temps anyways. Synthetic stress tests are for stability testing and voltage adjustments. Also make sure your back plate is installed with the two rounded edges facing the corresponding screws on the back of your MB. This is a common mistake with these types of water blocks. Those temps could be caused by a number of things. Many people buy water cooling and just rush into overclocking thinking they are all set, but it is more complicated than just cranking your multiplier and voltage. I'll tell you from my experience with Haswell, anything over 1.3V is too much for most AIO cooling solutions. If you want to stay at that voltage you'll likely have to add another rad. Did you use that voltage with the Noctua cooler too??!!


i am sorry but no, there is no way a cpu cooler, casues BSOD. none... NONE

nothing about it causes a BSOD


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sorry but no, there is no way a cpu cooler, casues BSOD. none... NONE
> 
> nothing about it causes a BSOD


Unless it's not installed correctly. @Dry Bonez, PM me so that I can assist you with your issue. I'm certain that something hasn't been set up or installed properly and that's why your temperatures are so high and your system is so unstable.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sorry but no, there is no way a cpu cooler, casues BSOD. none... NONE
> 
> nothing about it causes a BSOD


I didn't say that the H220X was causing his blue screens, I was just trying to help him figure out the possible root of his problem. He didn't supply a lot of info, mainly if he was using the exact same settings with both coolers. I suspect he wasn't. Some people open up the throttle all the way when they upgrade their cooling and don't know what to expect or the possible dangers. People also expect huge temp improvements and throw a bunch of random stress tests at it and think it is failing, when it probably isn't.

I have lots of experience with Haswell and I was a big contributor to the Haswell OCing Guide thread last year. I have seen many people think that cooling will increase their OC with that platform and it really won't. There is a set threshold with each chip and that is it. RetiredAssassin is experiencing exactly what I am describing. With my chip it is 4.8, any amount of voltage I throw at it, it just won't stabilize. Also stress testing 4.8 at anything over 1.3V was easily overwhelming my H100i, so I just gave up. I'm sure lots of people run voltage higher than 1.3V, but I am willing to bet they never stressed it properly. 90C with this type of cooler can be totally normal if the voltage is high enough and the right test is used...


----------



## Mega Man

Was not directed toward you at all


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unless it's not installed correctly. @Dry Bonez, PM me so that I can assist you with your issue. I'm certain that something hasn't been set up or installed properly and that's why your temperatures are so high and your system is so unstable.


can you please PM me? sorry i fell asleep last night from the rage i had and im currently using my tablet.i dont even wanna power on my pc cuz of what is happening.please pm me so we can figure this out


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sorry but no, there is no way a cpu cooler, casues BSOD. none... NONE
> 
> nothing about it causes a BSOD


Well accordiing to the BSOD error message,it clearly states its hardware.like i said,how come this never happened with my noctua? what ill probably do is try the noctua again,see if it does anything.if not,i will just blame the H220 X....dont get me wrong,i wana love my h220 x,i really really do,but right now,im not liking it.


----------



## Dry Bonez

i powered it on,and now its loud,making like a humming sound. continuously


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Check the cabling at the splitter (make sure everything's in right), and check to make sure you have solid connections at the pump / reservoir combo. It could be receiving power, but the connectors (at either end) may be loose.

Jason


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Check the cabling at the splitter (make sure everything's in right), and check to make sure you have solid connections at the pump / reservoir combo. It could be receiving power, but the connectors (at either end) may be loose.
> 
> Jason


i did.everything is plugged in....the ONLY thing i can think of is when i was installing it,on the actual waterblock on each corner,there are the screws but then you can position them center,inner and outwards and im assuming thats for the different sockets. so anyway,i wasnt sure which way to put them cuz the manual doesnt even say.so i tinkered with that for quite some time.and another thing,i think they did a real bad job with the back plate,for the noctua backplate,that thing is rock solid and awesome and goes right in.on the swiftech h220 x i hate how you have to use the sticky pad to mount it.i think its stupid honestly.what if the sticky pads get worn out? what else can you use? im just soo upset with this. on the bright side,i have my pc non acting up.idk.i went to sleep,tried it and its going now. but question,are these temps good for the OC i am on? these pics are from right this very moment


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Was not directed toward you at all


Oh cool man, it was late when I wrote that, late for me at least. I was just getting annoyed at the amount of "hot H220X" posts these last few days and wrote a general response/caveat to the thread. So that wasn't really directed at you either...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i did.everything is plugged in....the ONLY thing i can think of is when i was installing it,on the actual waterblock on each corner,there are the screws but then you can position them center,inner and outwards and im assuming thats for the different sockets. so anyway,i wasnt sure which way to put them cuz the manual doesnt even say.so i tinkered with that for quite some time.and another thing,i think they did a real bad job with the back plate,for the noctua backplate,that thing is rock solid and awesome and goes right in.on the swiftech h220 x i hate how you have to use the sticky pad to mount it.i think its stupid honestly.what if the sticky pads get worn out? what else can you use? im just soo upset with this. on the bright side,i have my pc non acting up.idk.i went to sleep,tried it and its going now. but question,are these temps good for the OC i am on? these pics are from right this very moment


Those temperatures look good. Whatever you did it seems to have worked.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

As mega man and bram stated a cooler (properly installed)couldn't cause bsod...however a loose connection or grounding where it shouldn't be can cause all sorts of crazy issues..we won't even get into power delivery issues lol.. if the Cooler wasn't cooling that would cause issues... but then that's heat causing it not the Cooler.

Whenever I install any new hardware I revert to stock settings first that way if there is any issue I know it isn't my overclock or settings change..then once I test and feel it's working well I hit it with the overclock...bam in the hardware lol

Happy it's working for you...I refuse to work on my pc if it makes me rage I've found I break things and normally make the issue worse if I don't just step back and take a breather

@Bram is there any headway made on the 320 in America issue...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> As mega man and bram stated a cooler (properly installed)couldn't cause bsod...however a loose connection or grounding where it shouldn't be can cause all sorts of crazy issues..we won't even get into power delivery issues lol.. if the Cooler wasn't cooling that would cause issues... but then that's heat causing it not the Cooler.
> 
> Whenever I install any new hardware I revert to stock settings first that way if there is any issue I know it isn't my overclock or settings change..then once I test and feel it's working well I hit it with the overclock...bam in the hardware lol
> 
> Happy it's working for you...I refuse to work on my pc if it makes me rage I've found I break things and normally make the issue worse if I don't just step back and take a breather
> 
> @Bram is there any headway made on the 320 in America issue...


What do you mean by 320? We're not making a 320 version of the H220-X kits and due to the patent infringement claim, we can't sell the H320 in the United States either.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those temperatures look good. Whatever you did it seems to have worked.


Im no expert in temps as i said,but idk,it just doesnt seem right and im sure it can get cooler than that. Anyway,heres a pic of right this very moment,im currently playing Resident Evil 5 as you can see,hency why i took a pic of the icon,i have my Z87 AI suite 3 running along with Real Temp and my CPU @ 4.5... Are these temps good? or is there something wrong? on a side note besides all this,i will say this,it is quite hot in my room as im actually sweating as i type this. does room temperature make a difference with this H220-X? I believe it mattered with my noctua due to it being air.
Bram,are you sure these are good temps?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i did.everything is plugged in....the ONLY thing i can think of is when i was installing it,on the actual waterblock on each corner,there are the screws but then you can position them center,inner and outwards and im assuming thats for the different sockets. so anyway,i wasnt sure which way to put them cuz the manual doesnt even say.so i tinkered with that for quite some time.and another thing,i think they did a real bad job with the back plate,for the noctua backplate,that thing is rock solid and awesome and goes right in.on the swiftech h220 x i hate how you have to use the sticky pad to mount it.i think its stupid honestly.what if the sticky pads get worn out? what else can you use? im just soo upset with this. on the bright side,i have my pc non acting up.idk.i went to sleep,tried it and its going now. but question,are these temps good for the OC i am on? these pics are from right this very moment


Are those your idle temps? Are you using Manual input voltage? Be careful with adaptive voltage when you stress. Water coolers won't increase your OCing ability, but it will give you more headroom to stress higher voltages (with Haswell at least). Also, the backplate should be evenly tightened over the CPU thermal surface, any difference in pressure (or being too tight) can cause unwanted temps. The sticky pads are there to help you mount it without an extra pair of hands and while the MB is in the case. You want the block to be sitting dead even on the top of the CPU.

I mentioned case airflow a few posts back because it can help to overall improve temps and keep your rads cooler. I noticed you lowered your voltage too, good move as long as it's still stable.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you mean by 320? We're not making a 320 version of the H220-X kits and due to the patent infringement claim, we can't sell the H320 in the United States either.


that was my inquiry as to if that would be resolved anytime soon...I know sometimes that takes forever to resolve just interested where that stands... meaning was it sided with the plaintiff or is it still pending


----------



## nado4ilhas

well someone could post a video of how to install correctly h220x


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 
> Im no expert in temps as i said,but idk,it just doesnt seem right and im sure it can get cooler than that. Anyway,heres a pic of right this very moment,im currently playing Resident Evil 5 as you can see,hency why i took a pic of the icon,i have my Z87 AI suite 3 running along with Real Temp and my CPU @ 4.5... Are these temps good? or is there something wrong? on a side note besides all this,i will say this,it is quite hot in my room as im actually sweating as i type this. does room temperature make a difference with this H220-X? I believe it mattered with my noctua due to it being air.
> Bram,are you sure these are good temps?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*


If those aren't at load then they aren't good. I sent you a PM response to help you sort things out. Let me know if that works for you.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If those aren't at load then they aren't good. I sent you a PM response to help you sort things out. Let me know if that works for you.


and that what im afraid of,idk whats good at idle,idk whats bad at idle.what temp is the h220 x supposed to be AVERAGE on IDLE? and heres another screenshot right now,2 of them actually.i turned off RE5 and have opened my AI suite 3,one pic u will see the fans at 50% and the other at 100%.i also have HWmonitor on both and real temp opened.take a look and let me know.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i did.everything is plugged in....the ONLY thing i can think of is when i was installing it,on the actual waterblock on each corner,there are the screws but then you can position them center,inner and outwards and im assuming thats for the different sockets. so anyway,i wasnt sure which way to put them cuz the manual doesnt even say.so i tinkered with that for quite some time.and another thing,i think they did a real bad job with the back plate,for the noctua backplate,that thing is rock solid and awesome and goes right in.on the swiftech h220 x i hate how you have to use the sticky pad to mount it.i think its stupid honestly.what if the sticky pads get worn out? what else can you use? im just soo upset with this. on the bright side,i have my pc non acting up.idk.i went to sleep,tried it and its going now. but question,are these temps good for the OC i am on? these pics are from right this very moment


I didn't like how freely the mounting screws moved either, nor do i like the backplate. It's a copout in my opinion. If they get worn out, then I gather you ask swiftech for another one. As far as the block goes, I left it the normal way (A logo pointing up). The Noctuas do have the best mounting kit in the buisness, and Swiftech needs to follow this lead; make the backplate slidable, but make it click SOLIDLY In position (ie: THIS is 1366, THIS is 1150, THIS is 2011; no free-sliding).

Temps seem to be in line. You have it set up right.

@Bram, is the reason for no 320x due to poor 320 global sales?


----------



## nado4ilhas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> and that what im afraid of,idk whats good at idle,idk whats bad at idle.what temp is the h220 x supposed to be AVERAGE on IDLE? and heres another screenshot right now,2 of them actually.i turned off RE5 and have opened my AI suite 3,one pic u will see the fans at 50% and the other at 100%.i also have HWmonitor on both and real temp opened.take a look and let me know.


are you sure you applied the Thermal Compound correctly?
What thermal compound are you using?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I didn't like how freely the mounting screws moved either, nor do i like the backplate. It's a copout in my opinion. If they get worn out, then I gather you ask swiftech for another one. As far as the block goes, I left it the normal way (A logo pointing up). The Noctuas do have the best mounting kit in the buisness, and Swiftech needs to follow this lead; make the backplate slidable, but make it click SOLIDLY In position (ie: THIS is 1366, THIS is 1150, THIS is 2011; no free-sliding).
> 
> Temps seem to be in line. You have it set up right.
> 
> @Bram, is the reason for no 320x due to poor 320 global sales?


I agree with you on the backplate,but you said something that caught my attention,i wasnt really aware of the positioning of the waterblock. what IF i put it upside down? does that matter? i just grabbed the block and put it in lol. BTW,check out my very last post,check those temps at idle.idk it just doesnt seem right bro


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> are you sure you applied the thermal paste correctly?
> What thermal compound are you using?


idk if i applied the right amount but i MIGHT end up redoing it,im just scared of taking out the block and then the backplate falling off,idk im just scared of the whole process because i didnt know how to position the screws and once i got them in,i was happy and didnt wana deal with the headache. but i am kinda sure its the thermal compound or the fact that idk if i have it upside down,let me check.................yea its upside down


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I didn't like how freely the mounting screws moved either, nor do i like the backplate. It's a copout in my opinion. If they get worn out, then I gather you ask swiftech for another one. As far as the block goes, I left it the normal way (A logo pointing up). The Noctuas do have the best mounting kit in the buisness, and Swiftech needs to follow this lead; make the backplate slidable, but make it click SOLIDLY In position (ie: THIS is 1366, THIS is 1150, THIS is 2011; no free-sliding).
> 
> Temps seem to be in line. You have it set up right.
> 
> @Bram, is the reason for no 320x due to poor 320 global sales?


once installing the backplate correctly, it should not be freesliding in the end. once the circular metal ends enter the socket holes, it should stay in assuming you used the adhesive squares swiftech gives you when installing the cooler. at first i Installed my original h220 in a haphazard way that took along time. Once I figured out how it mounts, using the included swiftech backplate is easy.

edit: of course this is even easier if the motherboard is already outside the case. Will take a bit of work if you have a really large case with the motherboard inside.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I agree with you on the backplate,but you said something that caught my attention,i wasnt really aware of the positioning of the waterblock. what IF i put it upside down? does that matter? i just grabbed the block and put it in lol. BTW,check out my very last post,check those temps at idle.idk it just doesnt seem right bro


Check the back plate to see if it is upside down, that can cause uneven pressure on the block. There are pictures a few pages back of how it should look. There are two rounded circle looking edges that need to go around the corresponding screw heads on the back of your MB. I would also try to take it off the CPU and re do the paste job and installation to see if you get better temps. The die of the CPU is only located right in the center of the IHS. So that is where thermal paste needs to be, not covering the entire surface of the heat spreader. This is a picture of what the inside of your CPU looks like beneath the heat spreader that contacts the water block.



When my H220C comes in this week I am going to hook it up as a closed loop on my CPU in place of the H100i first to run some stress tests and compare the two. I plan to do some sort of review and this comparison would be a good one to make I suppose. I want to add the H220X to my GPU only loop, but I'd like to get the numbers of both on the exact same system first. I should have it posted by the end of the week and I'll let everyone know how the two compare stock head to head.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Check the back plate to see if it is upside down, that can cause uneven pressure on the block. There are pictures a few pages back of how it should look. There are two rounded circle looking edges that need to go around the corresponding screw heads on the back of your MB. I would also try to take it off the CPU and re do the paste job and installation to see if you get better temps. The die of the CPU is only located right in the center of the IHS. So that is where thermal paste needs to be, not covering the entire surface of the heat spreader. This is a picture of what the inside of your CPU looks like beneath the heat spreader that contacts the water block.
> 
> 
> 
> When my H220C comes in this week I am going to hook it up as a closed loop on my CPU in place of the H100i first to run some stress tests and compare the two. I plan to do some sort of review and this comparison would be a good one to make I suppose. I want to add the H220X to my GPU only loop, but I'd like to get the numbers of both on the exact same system first. I should have it posted by the end of the week and I'll let everyone know how the two compare stock head to head.


yes we need that......and yes i made sure 3x to put the backplate the way you mentioned.i made sure to align the notches with the 2 screws at the top.same thing with the little plastic piece of the backplate.i made sure of that.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

It doesn't matter if it's upside down or not, BUT if you have a smaller case (like my 350D) it can cause kinking / stress on the tubes. Also, if you have a motherboard temp of 39C, something else may be an issue (ie: is your room very warm). Right now I'm idling with my mobo in the mid 20s and my room temp in the low 20s, and the only intake / exhaust is an AF140L (intake) and an SP120L (exhaust).

If your room is very warm (ie: over 25C), that could be an issue as well.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> It doesn't matter if it's upside down or not, BUT if you have a smaller case (like my 350D) it can cause kinking / stress on the tubes. Also, if you have a motherboard temp of 39C, something else may be an issue (ie: is your room very warm). Right now I'm idling with my mobo in the mid 20s and my room temp in the low 20s, and the only intake / exhaust is an AF140L (intake) and an SP120L (exhaust).
> 
> If your room is very warm (ie: over 25C), that could be an issue as well.


nah my room is like an oven.its EXTREMELY hot in here due to AC broke.i have a fan and its not even enough.its very very hot in here..but is that a factor? i dot think so.maybe for mobo,but not the cooler


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> nah my room is like an oven.its EXTREMELY hot in here due to AC broke.i have a fan and its not even enough.its very very hot in here..but is that a factor? i dot think so.maybe for mobo,but not the cooler


Yes it is. Any heat in a room, will affect the air that gets into the computer and touches the mobo. As a result, if you put an AC in your room, you should see temps drop.

Jason


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> once installing the backplate correctly, it should not be freesliding in the end. once the circular metal ends enter the socket holes, it should stay in assuming you used the adhesive squares swiftech gives you when installing the cooler. at first i Installed my original h220 in a haphazard way that took along time. Once I figured out how it mounts, using the included swiftech backplate is easy.
> 
> edit: of course this is even easier if the motherboard is already outside the case. Will take a bit of work if you have a really large case with the motherboard inside.


And if you have a small case, it's a nightmare. What I want are "click-stops". You click the metal ends into place, place in mobo, and the backplate stays put. The same for the cold-block. Click in place, line-up, screw in, DONE. Free-sliding everything is nice and "ooh smooth", but it makes it very difficult to mount. When I write my review, I'm going ot note this.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Yes it is. Any heat in a room, will affect the air that gets into the computer and touches the mobo. As a result, if you put an AC in your room, you should see temps drop.
> 
> Jason


but will i see temps drop of my cooler????? i understand the mobo temp.....but does room temp really matter for the h220 x since its liquid,not air. my case has plenty of air.i have the CM Storm Stryker


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> but will i see temps drop of my cooler????? i understand the mobo temp.....but does room temp really matter for the h220 x since its liquid,not air. my case has plenty of air.i have the CM Storm Stryker


If my look is right, with one intake and one exhaust for the mobo, and i get 26 to 28C for mobo and 28C to 31C for cpu, then yes. it will help.

For reference, my case is an obsidian 350D (mATX case), so if you have a larger case, you may do even better!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> nah my room is like an oven.its EXTREMELY hot in here due to AC broke.i have a fan and its not even enough.its very very hot in here..but is that a factor? i dot think so.maybe for mobo,but not the cooler


It is absolutely a factor. If your ambient is 20C and CPU idles 30C then if your ambient is 30C CPU idles 40C and so on. The temp of the air going through a radiator has a direct impact on the cooled components.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> nah my room is like an oven.its EXTREMELY hot in here due to AC broke.i have a fan and its not even enough.its very very hot in here..but is that a factor? i dot think so.maybe for mobo,but not the cooler


Yes, that's going to be an issue. A common misconception is that water cooling is so superior to air cooling that your ambient temperatures don't even matter anymore. This is completely false. You won't ever be able to get lower temperatures than your ambient with water cooling. And that's at idle. Once you start putting a load to your hardware your temperatures will rise. What is the ambient temperature in your room right now?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I didn't like how freely the mounting screws moved either, nor do i like the backplate. It's a copout in my opinion. If they get worn out, then I gather you ask swiftech for another one. As far as the block goes, I left it the normal way (A logo pointing up). The Noctuas do have the best mounting kit in the buisness, and Swiftech needs to follow this lead; make the backplate slidable, but make it click SOLIDLY In position (ie: THIS is 1366, THIS is 1150, THIS is 2011; no free-sliding).
> 
> Temps seem to be in line. You have it set up right.
> 
> @Bram, is the reason for no 320x due to poor 320 global sales?


No, it's due to the placement of the pump and reservoir. Due to this placement an H320 version will take up too much space in the optical drives and thus make such a kit less compatible then we're comfortable with. That's why the decision was made to not offer a 320 version of this kit.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that's going to be an issue. A common misconception is that water cooling is so superior to air cooling that your ambient temperatures don't even matter anymore. This is completely false. You won't ever be able to get lower temperatures than your ambient with water cooling. And that's at idle. Once you start putting a load to your hardware your temperatures will rise. What is the ambient temperature in your room right now?


well idk how to check.i wanna say maybe 80C...im at idle at high 39 low 42. so from what im hearing,i may have it installed corretly but the reason im seeing high temps,is because of my room temp??????


----------



## M3TAl

Hope you mean 80F, or else you would be dead haha. What region do you live in? If you were in Houston right now with no AC the room would be at least 90F+. Are you sweating in the room? I start sweating when the room gets around 83-84F.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well idk how to check.i wanna say maybe 80C...im at idle at high 39 low 42. so from what im hearing,i may have it installed corretly but the reason im seeing high temps,is because of my room temp??????


if your room is 80 deg C, that means you're at about 175 deg F. I HOPE you mean 80 Deg F (26 to 27 Deg C)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well idk how to check.i wanna say maybe 80C...im at idle at high 39 low 42. so from what im hearing,i may have it installed corretly but the reason im seeing high temps,is because of my room temp??????


I'm guessing that you mean 80F. If so then that is likely why your idle temperatures are so high. Please also tell me what the RPM's are for your pump? They should be between 1200 and 3000 RPM.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> if your room is 80 deg C, that means you're at about 175 deg F. I HOPE you mean 80 Deg F (26 to 27 Deg C)


lmao,i actually laughed at this,this is indeed funny.lmao....well yall know what i mean,80

degrees and yes to the guy above,im sweating in my room.but im about to do a real test about the temp....check it out guys.im really gonna try this out now,im jis gonna give it a few more moments to cool,then ima power it on and see if it does make a difference


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it's due to the placement of the pump and reservoir. Due to this placement an H320 version will take up too much space in the optical drives and thus make such a kit less compatible then we're comfortable with. That's why the decision was made to not offer a 320 version of this kit.


Ah, so it's the issue of people complaining they wouldn't have a space for DVD-ROM / BD-ROM due to the res. But then that would raise the question - unless one had a very short 360mm-capable case (ie: obsidian 450D) - wouldn't that sort of person who is looking for a 360mm cooler almost know that what they're buying is going to be quite large / heavy? The H220x, because I wasn't prepared for an all-copper AIO at the buld-level of the H220x, amazed me due to its heft, and although I don't have optical drives, it provided a nice little storage area for the splitter. I wonder if the average person would go, seeing they only have 2 spots up top (240mm rad or 280mm rad) and then go and buy a 360mm cooler. Also, there's only one I can think of with a 360mm AIO - the thermaltake 3.0 ultra, so it almost seems like a nice little niche for the person who wants swiftech quality, but in a pre-built solution.

(I'm just idea tossing, so please don't take it as an affront. The 220x is amazing)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> lmao,i actually laughed at this,this is indeed funny.lmao....well yall know what i mean,80
> 
> degrees and yes to the guy above,im sweating in my room.but im about to do a real test about the temp....check it out guys.im really gonna try this out now,im jis gonna give it a few more moments to cool,then ima power it on and see if it does make a difference


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> lmao,i actually laughed at this,this is indeed funny.lmao....well yall know what i mean,80
> 
> degrees and yes to the guy above,im sweating in my room.but im about to do a real test about the temp....check it out guys.im really gonna try this out now,im jis gonna give it a few more moments to cool,then ima power it on and see if it does make a difference


If the AC is working properly then yes it will make a difference. Ambient always has affect on the temps of ANYTHING in the case. Doesn't matter what it's cooled with as long as it's air or water based.

Now if u added a bunch of ice and water in a bucket and dunked the rad in it ambient wouldn't matter much. LN2 cooling and other sub ambient cooling makes ambient irrelevant. Any normal air or watercooling is largely based on ambient. It's all about the Delta T to ambient. Get the water temp as close as possible to the ambient. Right now my room is 78F, my water temp is 83F.


----------



## Agoniizing

I just added a waterblock to my 290X and I bled the entire loop. My pump was dead silent once i bled the loop. Now as soon as I started gaming and running benches on my 290X, my pump started to sound like a fish tank. Why was it dead silent then as soon I started gaming air gets into the pump?


----------



## fleetfeather

Air bubbles in the loop. How familiar are you will "bleeding" loops?


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Air bubbles in the loop. How familiar are you will "bleeding" loops?


I'd say average. I know the steps to bleed, but for some reason it started making this sound as soon as I started adding load to my GPU.


----------



## Dry Bonez

so i finally finished putting the pc in the living room with the AC present and i did notice a drop.but im not sure if its "good" so i will leave it to the experts.check it out


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Keep checking because last time they came in stock it was at a totally random day/time. You can preorder them from NCIX I believe but it won't be available until the 30th of this month. I also saw someone post that either Performance PCs or Frozen CPU had them in stock, maybe worth a check...


good call on Performance PCs. They had ten left in stock when you mentioned that and by 8am this morning they were down to two units left. I was able to snatch one. Well, lets hope I did. The order went thru but I'll only know when it ships. But thanks, I hadnt even heard of Performance PCs until you mentioned it; and I thought I checked every store


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> so i finally finished putting the pc in the living room with the AC present and i did notice a drop.but im not sure if its "good" so i will leave it to the experts.check it out


That's a good temperature for 4.5


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> good call on Performance PCs. They had ten left in stock when you mentioned that and by 8am this morning they were down to two units left. I was able to snatch one. Well, lets hope I did. The order went thru but I'll only know when it ships. But thanks, I hadnt even heard of Performance PCs until you mentioned it; and I thought I checked every store


No worries, I actually bought lots of my water cooling stuff from them and their prices are very reasonable. Although the H220X is a bit marked up on their site, but at least you don't have to wait. Their 3 day Fed Ex shipping really is 3 day shipping and it was also reasonable too (but it probably depends on where you are in the US). I'm glad I could help...


----------



## sdmf74

Hey Brian You said you would give specifics about the new pump add-on 2 weeks ago and you may have I might have missed it I am in the middle of a build so I dont have easy access to the forum, can you elaborate. It would be nice if it will be available soon cause I will be mounting pump and filling loop within the next few days or so, thanx


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> so i finally finished putting the pc in the living room with the AC present and i did notice a drop.but im not sure if its "good" so i will leave it to the experts.check it out


Those look better, especially if it is in a hot ambient. Since there is no thermostat inside PC cooling systems the temps inside rise and fall with the ambient temp of the room, it's just the law of physics. Are you using Asus overclocking utility? Or are you manually OCing your CPU? I use AI Suite to control fans and monitor temps on the mobo too, but Id advise against using any auto OCing tools. They usually grossly over compensate voltage for greater stability. It looks like you've lowered your voltage, so it's possible you're not. But I thought Id ask. 1.285V is decent for 4.5 and it will give you better temps than 1.3V+.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Check the cabling at the splitter (make sure everything's in right), and check to make sure you have solid connections at the pump / reservoir combo. It could be receiving power, but the connectors (at either end) may be loose.
> 
> Jason
> 
> 
> 
> i did.everything is plugged in....the ONLY thing i can think of is when i was installing it,on the actual waterblock on each corner,there are the screws but then you can position them center,inner and outwards and im assuming thats for the different sockets. so anyway,i wasnt sure which way to put them cuz the manual doesnt even say.so i tinkered with that for quite some time.and another thing,i think they did a real bad job with the back plate,for the noctua backplate,that thing is rock solid and awesome and goes right in.on the swiftech h220 x i hate how you have to use the sticky pad to mount it.i think its stupid honestly.what if the sticky pads get worn out? what else can you use? im just soo upset with this. on the bright side,i have my pc non acting up.idk.i went to sleep,tried it and its going now. but question,are these temps good for the OC i am on? these pics are from right this very moment
Click to expand...

i find this highly funny considering most reviewers consider swiftech has one of if not the best mounting system. it isnt that hard, put a pillow or something NON STATIC ( IE a static free bag like your mobo should of come in ) under it, and install. i can dismount repaste and mount a swiftech block in less then 5 min. and 4 of that is cleaning paste.

the biggest reason it is considered so it takes out ALL guesswork for how tight to make it without being overtight
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> As mega man and bram stated a cooler (properly installed)couldn't cause bsod...however a loose connection or grounding where it shouldn't be can cause all sorts of crazy issues..we won't even get into power delivery issues lol.. if the Cooler wasn't cooling that would cause issues... but then that's heat causing it not the Cooler.
> 
> Whenever I install any new hardware I revert to stock settings first that way if there is any issue I know it isn't my overclock or settings change..then once I test and feel it's working well I hit it with the overclock...bam in the hardware lol
> 
> Happy it's working for you...I refuse to work on my pc if it makes me rage I've found I break things and normally make the issue worse if I don't just step back and take a breather
> 
> @Bram is there any headway made on the 320 in America issue...
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by 320? We're not making a 320 version of the H220-X kits and due to the patent infringement claim, we can't sell the H320 in the United States either.
Click to expand...

sure there is, it is called NCIX








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What do you mean by 320? We're not making a 320 version of the H220-X kits and due to the patent infringement claim, we can't sell the H320 in the United States either.
> 
> 
> 
> that was my inquiry as to if that would be resolved anytime soon...I know sometimes that takes forever to resolve just interested where that stands... meaning was it sided with the plaintiff or is it still pending
Click to expand...

CM is the plaintiff not swiftech, and it will take years can take 5-10 years
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> It doesn't matter if it's upside down or not, BUT if you have a smaller case (like my 350D) it can cause kinking / stress on the tubes. Also, if you have a motherboard temp of 39C, something else may be an issue (ie: is your room very warm). Right now I'm idling with my mobo in the mid 20s and my room temp in the low 20s, and the only intake / exhaust is an AF140L (intake) and an SP120L (exhaust).
> 
> If your room is very warm (ie: over 25C), that could be an issue as well.
> 
> 
> 
> nah my room is like an oven.its EXTREMELY hot in here due to AC broke.i have a fan and its not even enough.its very very hot in here..but is that a factor? i dot think so.maybe for mobo,but not the cooler
Click to expand...

..... i think you need to read about watercooling

5-7c over ambient temp from what i can tell, sure your ssds will be a little warmer but not much more. 35-37 and your idling ~ 40-45c with crappy tim between the die and ihs ( correct me if i am wrong, but i am going to assume you dont know how to or didnt delid )

i would recommend reading ALL of the "misc" excluding anything relating to a specific companies product

http://martinsliquidlab.org/

and this

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

I am considering the Swiftech H220x for my CPU cooling and expansion capabilities. I wonder how would it fit on my NZXT Phantom Full tower case.

I don't have any radiator support on top which has two 240mm fans and one 140mm fan infront. I am thinking to remove the drive bay on the bottom and place

the rad there. Any suggestions?


----------



## Dudewitbow

the H220x is not designed for use mounted at the bottom of the case


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the H220x is not designed for use mounted at the bottom of the case


So it will not fit my case?


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it's due to the placement of the pump and reservoir. Due to this placement an H320 version will take up too much space in the optical drives and thus make such a kit less compatible then we're comfortable with. That's why the decision was made to not offer a 320 version of this kit.


Why not keep the pump/reservoir in the middle of the raditor instead of at the edge for the 360mm version? It would have the same level of optical drive bay blocking as any other 360mm reservoirs that way.


----------



## Dry Bonez

about to remount my h220 x. one thing i should ask is what should i use,the swiftech thermal compund or Noctua from my NH D14?? which would you guys recommend before i start remounting? another thing,i have my waterblock upside down,should i go ahead and fix that in the process too? or it has no effect on performance? and now for the hardest question and for those in the future who mount it can know,what is the PROPER way to place the screws on the waterblock for a 1150 socket mobo? because those screws can move left and right and i believe center...so what is the PROPER way so i can go ahead and start my mission. thanks.i need atleast 2 replies so i can go ahead and start this thing


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> I am considering the Swiftech H220x for my CPU cooling and expansion capabilities. I wonder how would it fit on my NZXT Phantom Full tower case.
> 
> I don't have any radiator support on top which has two 240mm fans and one 140mm fan infront. I am thinking to remove the drive bay on the bottom and place
> 
> the rad there. Any suggestions?


Are you talking about the original Phantom ful ltower? Because it comes with radiator brackets to mount the radiator to the top of the case under the 200mm (192mm actually, made before there was a 200mm standard) fans. However, I wouldn't recommend mounting it underneath them because the have low static pressure and poor coverage over the radiator surface area when mounted in this fashion. The better option is ti forgo both the included brackets and the 200mm fans, and mount the H220X radiator and top fans in the top directly to the case via the 3 or 4 screws that line up in the center between the fan openings, which is what these holes are for. If you need extra mobo clearance, you can mount the rad on the underside of the top and the fans on top of the top plate and onto the radiator that way.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Are you talking about the original Phantom ful ltower? Because it comes with radiator brackets to mount the radiator to the top of the case under the 200mm (192mm actually, made before there was a 200mm standard) fans. However, I wouldn't recommend mounting it underneath them because the have low static pressure and poor coverage over the radiator surface area when mounted in this fashion. The better option is ti forgo both the included brackets and the 200mm fans, and mount the H220X radiator and top fans in the top directly to the case via the 3 or 4 screws that line up in the center between the fan openings, which is what these holes are for. If you need extra mobo clearance, you can mount the rad on the underside of the top and the fans on top of the top plate and onto the radiator that way.


Yes, the original phantom full tower. So I have to remove my 200mm fans and put the radiator beneath the plate and the fans on top of plate? I have to look for the box to get the brackets. Didn't know it Phantom came with it. Do you have a picture by any chance what it looks like?


----------



## Phelan

I've done it before with an H100i and an H220 but I don't think I have any pictures unfortunately. If you can fit bothe the fans and the radiator in the underside of the top you will have a better seal between the fans and the rad for slightly better performance.


----------



## jackalopeater

Wasn't sure if they were going to release a H320x so I bit the bullet before NCIX ran out







and I'm glad I did. now waiting on my second gpu block to finish it off!


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I've done it before with an H100i and an H220 but I don't think I have any pictures unfortunately. If you can fit bothe the fans and the radiator in the underside of the top you will have a better seal between the fans and the rad for slightly better performance.


Yeah I don't know if I can remove the front bay to have another 240mm rad in the future and reservoir space. What do you suggest h220x or h3220?

I will switch cases to nzxt h440 pretty soon. Bit as of now I want to fit something on my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> Wasn't sure if they were going to release a H320x so I bit the bullet before NCIX ran out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm glad I did. now waiting on my second gpu block to finish it off!


Is that a h320?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Yeah I don't know if I can remove the front bay to have another 240mm rad in the future and reservoir space. What do you suggest h220x or h3220?
> 
> I will switch cases to nzxt h440 pretty soon. Bit as of now I want to fit something on my case.
> Is that a h320?


If you get the H220X, which is what I would reccomend btw, you can put another 240mm rad in the floor by removing the HDD bays. Some have managed to mount the smaller HDD bay upside down and screwed into the 5.25" bays, so you still have an HDD rack but can fit the 240 in the floor. In the Phantom I had, I ripped and cut everything out of the floor and cut out most of the innards of the case to fit 2 480mm rads side by side in the bottom of mine.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> If you get the H220X, which is what I would reccomend btw, you can put another 240mm rad in the floor by removing the HDD bays. Some have managed to mount the smaller HDD bay upside down and screwed into the 5.25" bays, so you still have an HDD rack but can fit the 240 in the floor. In the Phantom I had, I ripped and cut everything out of the floor and cut out most of the innards of the case to fit 2 480mm rads side by side in the bottom of mine.


Is the reservoir removable on the h220x? What if if I want to change my res? I wanted the the h220x especially for the price and expandability.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Is the reservoir removable on the h220x? What if if I want to change my res? I wanted the the h220x especially for the price and expandability.


No, the reservoir on the H220-X is not removable. However, you can always add a second reservoir if you wish.


----------



## Dry Bonez

urgent urgent help please asap! im right now reapplying thermal compound,but i wanna kno if i remove the old thermal from the waterblock?or just the cpu?? and should i use noctua thermal compound? another thing,should i wait for it to dry or just reaapply ?


----------



## VSG

Remove from both the CPU and the block. There isn't a lot of appreciable difference between decent TIMs so switching to the Noctua one won't be magical. If you are using IPA to clean the TIM (which you should be) then it dries up quickly allowing you to re-apply TIM instantly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> urgent urgent help please asap! im right now reapplying thermal compound,but i wanna kno if i remove the old thermal from the waterblock?or just the cpu?? and should i use noctua thermal compound? another thing,should i wait for it to dry or just reaapply ?


Yes, completely remove the old thermal compound from the CPU and the water block. Then dry it off with a paper towel and re-apply with whatever TIM you want.


----------



## Mega Man

Clean all surfaces with a microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol both the ihs and c p u block.

The ihs is the TOP of the cpu


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, completely remove the old thermal compound from the CPU and the water block. Then dry it off with a paper towel and re-apply with whatever TIM you want.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Remove from both the CPU and the block. There isn't a lot of appreciable difference between decent TIMs so switching to the Noctua one won't be magical. If you are using IPA to clean the TIM (which you should be) then it dries up quickly allowing you to re-apply TIM instantly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean all surfaces with a microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol both the ihs and c p u block.
> 
> The ihs is the TOP of the cpu


Alright guys,so listen up,i wanna note some things.I successfully reapplied thermal paste,BUT something happened in the mix of doing it and something i noticed and didnt wait for a reply so i went ahead and did it. ok
1: I applied Noctua compound first,but i dropped a little bit and ran out,so i figured it was too little,so i then got the Swiftech and applied so therefore i have 2 compounds applied.I had a feeling it would act up but didnt.
2:I flipped it back to normal,it isnt upside down anymore
3:this is what worried me the most.so i cleaned the cpu and WB with alcohol pads,since i dont have any alcohol in a bottle, i did NOT dry it and before i placed the WB onto the cpu,i noticed some weird fingerprint llooking design on the cpu AND wb,im assuming its because the alcohol dried on its own.

With that being said,i will upload some pics of new temps to see if i gained or lost temps.


----------



## Mega Man

There is no need. You do not have any real data to show if it improved temps.

5 seconds in prime means nothing


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no need. You do not have any real data to show if it improved temps.
> 
> 5 seconds in prime means nothing


well i do see temps being down AND on top of that,im in the hot room again,sooo for those temps to be low AND it being an oven in my room,i think those temps are good tbh. Now all i would have to do is take my pc back to the living room where its sooo much cooler than in here and really see the difference....what do you think?


----------



## Mega Man

You keep talking about seeing lower temps.

Temps are irrelevant.

Temp delta ( difference between the water temp and the incoming air temp )

And cpu to water temp delta ( will vary at idle and at load )

Are all that matters.

And again your cpu to water will be high as intel uses cheap Tim between the die and ihs rather then soldering it properly


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well i do see temps being down AND on top of that,im in the hot room again,sooo for those temps to be low AND it being an oven in my room,i think those temps are good tbh. Now all i would have to do is take my pc back to the living room where its sooo much cooler than in here and really see the difference....what do you think?


Yeah, you have to compare the temps to something relative, or a delta temp. Because if the ambient temps went down 5 degrees from yesterday so will your CPU temps. You need to either take all temp readings in a temp controlled environment (l record mine at 70F because the room my PC is in is temp controlled), or always note the ambient before you post a CPU reading. This is recommended because you are currently in a "very hot" climate/environment and those temps are bound to change daily. If the temp in your comp room always stays the same you'll notice small temp changes/variations in your system a lot easier.

I also advise using a benchmark like 3D Mark 11 or Valley runs to test your system. These are generic benchmarks with small amounts of variables (especially the trial versions) that lots of folks here run all the time. It will be easy for people to compare temps with you if you use these types of programs. Or you could always go to the Haswell OCing Guide thread and check temps there with other people who are likely running synthetic stress tests tuning their OCs. Just an idea...


----------



## jackalopeater

Oh yeah, it's the H320. Realized that I didn't clarify that


----------



## AK-47

will the H220X be available on newegg soon?


----------



## Dry Bonez

BTW @BRAM,one thing i wanna mention that i think you should try telling the BIG BOSS,is to please try and come out with a Swiftech sticker. Its not much to ask for and it might sound corny but i would actually love to place an emblem or something of swiftech on my rig. Im just saying


----------



## mfknjadagr8

@Bram so I'm guessing the in stock will be tomorrow or will it be late today... hoping to not miss out this time


----------



## UnStableFPS

Me 2....I sold my h110, and this 8350 stock cooler is hotttttttttt


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Me 2....I sold my h110, and this 8350 stock cooler is hotttttttttt


compared to the h110 I'd bet it is but it does really well at stock or a little above


----------



## UnStableFPS

Frozencpu.com has 9 in stock!

The OCN code is over with right on the Swiftech website? Probably just go ahead and order, the difference wasn't really enough to wait.

Well ordered from Frozencpu.com and used OCN code for 5.1% discount. woohoo


----------



## tehpud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Frozencpu.com has 9 in stock!
> 
> The OCN code is over with right on the Swiftech website? Probably just go ahead and order, the difference wasn't really enough to wait.
> 
> Well ordered from Frozencpu.com and used OCN code for 5.1% discount. woohoo


Yup, just ordered from FrozenCPU as well. Already in shipping process and will ship out today. Damned fast.

I ordered quickly and didn't use a discount or code. Didn't have one on hand and wanted to make sure I had one of those 9 in stock.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Frozen still has 4 in stock...I snagged one at 5 left...145 shipped not to shabby


----------



## fleetfeather

No pump adapter in stock yet, correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> No pump adapter in stock yet, correct?


No, not as of yet. They are still in production and we're hoping to have them in the next week or two.


----------



## fleetfeather

Too easy. Cheers mate


----------



## Jawswing

I see it's usually recommend to have the radiator mounted above the CPU.
However I'm just waiting for my NCASE M1 to arrive. Which, doesn't really look feasible to do.



Would this be likely to cause issues with the H220?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> I see it's usually recommend to have the radiator mounted above the CPU.
> However I'm just waiting for my NCASE M1 to arrive. Which, doesn't really look feasible to do.
> 
> htt://[URL=http://ww.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2141062/width/500/height/1000%5BIMG%5DWould]ww.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2141062/width/500/height/1000[IMG]Would[/URL] this be likely to cause issues with the H220?[/QUOTE]
> 
> Nope, should be fine


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Nope, should be fine


Yes, that should work just fine.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> I see it's usually recommend to have the radiator mounted above the CPU.
> However I'm just waiting for my NCASE M1 to arrive. Which, doesn't really look feasible to do.
> 
> 
> 
> Would this be likely to cause issues with the H220?


Just make sure to face the radiator in such a position that the reservoir is facing up. Should be plenty of room to do so though as long as your ITX board has the RAM on the right side of the CPU and not above it as some FM2+ boards do.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that should work just fine.


Hey Bram whats up.sorry to bother you with something so silly but im sure i am not the only one,but can you recommend to the boss or anything they should start implementing swiftech stickers/emblems to tag your case with. lol,i know it sounds corny,but i actually would like to have a swiftech emblem/sticker on my rig....just sayin


----------



## Masked107

So i've got a question you folks might not be able to answer, I am ordering my 780ti incredibly soon







and I want to try something that I think might work. I travel all the time and I take my current machine with me to most places. The case I am going to be using has handles which will make it easy to move around. I've always been fascinated my liquid cooling but I have my restriction on why I cannot run liquid (IE traveling) I will be running an all-in-one for my CPU, But I had an idea. The H220x from Swiftech allows for changing liquids and it also has everything built in for an effective all-in-one. I can also order their 780ti block that has identical fittings...... See where i'm going here? The H220x is meant for expanding and doesn't have the pump in the block. So my question is, Would a standalone H220x be sufficient enough to effectively cool a 780ti? I would love for this to happen.

Copy paste to try and get an answer. Could I use a H220x solely for a GTX 780ti?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masked107*
> 
> So i've got a question you folks might not be able to answer, I am ordering my 780ti incredibly soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I want to try something that I think might work. I travel all the time and I take my current machine with me to most places. The case I am going to be using has handles which will make it easy to move around. I've always been fascinated my liquid cooling but I have my restriction on why I cannot run liquid (IE traveling) I will be running an all-in-one for my CPU, But I had an idea. The H220x from Swiftech allows for changing liquids and it also has everything built in for an effective all-in-one. I can also order their 780ti block that has identical fittings...... See where i'm going here? The H220x is meant for expanding and doesn't have the pump in the block. So my question is, Would a standalone H220x be sufficient enough to effectively cool a 780ti? I would love for this to happen.
> 
> Copy paste to try and get an answer. Could I use a H220x solely for a GTX 780ti?


Short answer, yes. Temps would be much lower than air cooling on the GPU, but your CPU temps will go up. At CES Gabe had an H220 cooling a 3570K @4.5 GHz and two GTX 680s, with CPU temp around 81*C IIRC while gaming with 99% load. The 780ti is essentially 2 680s on 1 die, so cooling would be similar. I don't remember the GPU temps but they were acceptable, though higher than most water cooled GPUs due to only being cooled by a 240 rad. You won't be able to stress test the CPU and GPUs at the same time, but you can stress test either at a time or game no issues.

BTW the H220X has a Swiftech MCP30X pump installed behind the res.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masked107*
> 
> So i've got a question you folks might not be able to answer, I am ordering my 780ti incredibly soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I want to try something that I think might work. I travel all the time and I take my current machine with me to most places. The case I am going to be using has handles which will make it easy to move around. I've always been fascinated my liquid cooling but I have my restriction on why I cannot run liquid (IE traveling) I will be running an all-in-one for my CPU, But I had an idea. The H220x from Swiftech allows for changing liquids and it also has everything built in for an effective all-in-one. I can also order their 780ti block that has identical fittings...... See where i'm going here? The H220x is meant for expanding and doesn't have the pump in the block. So my question is, Would a standalone H220x be sufficient enough to effectively cool a 780ti? I would love for this to happen.
> 
> Copy paste to try and get an answer. Could I use a H220x solely for a GTX 780ti?


While you could do it, that would be a little underpowered for a Ti.

GTX780Ti not overclocked has a TDP of around 250watts, a 2x120 rad is able to remove around 145watts with fans at 1800rpm. So with fans getting pretty loud your still only at around 55-60% of the heat dissipation needed so the water temp in your loop rises quite a bit, really not a lot of benefit over air cooling for the cost. People do it though and I've seen some with the funky NZT adaptor and a 120 rad in push pull which I think is what the 295x2 uses as well for over 500W as a hybrid water/air cooler. If you're buying a card with the reference cooler then personally I would say go for it, if you're buying one with a custom cooler like the EVGA ACX or ASUS DirectCUII the price / performance ratio isn't that great and probably not worth it. Just my opinion









Swiftech Radiator Esitmator


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Back in March my pump died on my H220 resulting in my temps skyrocketing to 100c. It could of gotten hotter since the max reading only goes to 100c. I wasn't home at the time so who knows how long my cpu was like that until thermal shutdown happened. The heat must of done some damage to my cpu because I can no longer overclock anymore and occasionally it'll crash at stock settings. Sucks because I wasn't planning on upgrading my cpu for some time. Bad things happen I guess.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Update on my H220x: I'm at 1.231v at 4.6GHz. The cooling on this is amazing. Even after 8 hours of Linpack, the max temp was 71 Deg C. She's hard to install, but once she's installed she's amazing.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Update on my H220x: I'm at 1.231v at 4.6GHz. The cooling on this is amazing. Even after 8 hours of Linpack, the max temp was 71 Deg C. She's hard to install, but once she's installed she's amazing.


I agree,i havent done Linpack(yet),but i agree,once installed,and correctly i might add(as i didnt at first),this thing is a beautiful beast. To me,this thing has no competition,in terms of AIO watercooling.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I agree,i havent done Linpack(yet),but i agree,once installed,and correctly i might add(as i didnt at first),this thing is a beautiful beast. To me,this thing has no competition,in terms of AIO watercooling.


What was the issue with your install? Maybe I missed the post, but it is good to post a follow up so others can benefit from the info in the future. Many folks with issues forget to post how they resolved it after their problem is solved. Glad you figured it out though. I am bout to install mine later this evening...


----------



## BramSLI1

H220X kits will be back in stock today! Hurry and get them because they'll go fast.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Back in March my pump died on my H220 resulting in my temps skyrocketing to 100c. It could of gotten hotter since the max reading only goes to 100c. I wasn't home at the time so who knows how long my cpu was like that until thermal shutdown happened. The heat must of done some damage to my cpu because I can no longer overclock anymore and occasionally it'll crash at stock settings. Sucks because I wasn't planning on upgrading my cpu for some time. Bad things happen I guess.


Probably could find a replacement 930 in the marketplace here for cheap.

EDIT: Hmmm, well I didn't see one here, but its against the TOS to link to any other sites so in the spirit of not breaking the rules at the very well known internet auctioneer I was able to find one at a current bid of 39.99 with only 1 day left.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Probably could find a replacement 930 in the marketplace here for cheap.
> 
> EDIT: Hmmm, well I didn't see one here, but its against the TOS to link to any other sites so in the spirit of not breaking the rules at the very well known internet auctioneer I was able to find one at a current bid of 39.99 with only 1 day left.


Against the rules to link an eBay ad? How so?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Against the rules to link an eBay ad? How so?


I thought so, but maybe that is just for the marketplace. Meh, either way its out there for him to work with


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Probably could find a replacement 930 in the marketplace here for cheap.
> 
> EDIT: Hmmm, well I didn't see one here, but its against the TOS to link to any other sites so in the spirit of not breaking the rules at the very well known internet auctioneer I was able to find one at a current bid of 39.99 with only 1 day left.


Thanks a lot, I would do it but there's also a chance my motherboard could be the culprit. Would hate to spend money on another cpu and it not fix my issue. Thanks again though


----------



## nado4ilhas

swiftech H220-X in stock now!!...

go go go!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> swiftech H220-X in stock now...


THIS IS CORRECT!


----------



## Dry Bonez

just thought i'd share with everyone.it was posted 1 day ago,which was 8-19-2014
.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Review is up:

My H220x review


----------



## BangBangPlay

I am installing mine now (adding it to my custom loop) and this thing is tricky, especially in the 350D case. I swapped some of the fittings and the elbow that feeds the rad/res is very uncomfortable to swap and install new tubing. It is coming along though, hopefully I'll finish tonight and get it up and running...

EDIT: It is up and running and I can say a few things for certain; the H220X pump makes strange noises when there is any small amount of air cycling through the system. I am bleeding the loop and the H220's pump is quiet and then sounds like a tractor while air is passing through. It has been cycling through different tones and volumes while I bleed it. So if your pump is loud, odds are it has some air that needs to get out.

Also I am running the pump on CPU_FAN header and I am running a few rad fans on CPU_OPT with the PWM splitter. AI Suite (or FanXpert like software) does display the speeds of both the pump and the fans. Just an idea if people wanted to monitor both and not only the pump's speed. It helps to set the curve for the pump knowing what speed both will be spinning at given points. I also am using my ASST_FAN header for the WB led and that has been working just fine. It displays a rpm of zero, but it doesn't bother me.

No leaks so far, and temps look great...


----------



## fleetfeather

I would've liked to pick up a H220-X off the Swiftech webstore, but the international shipping is prohibitively expensive if someone needs to make purchases from more than one store.

To make the H220-X cost effective, I really need to be purchasing the unit at the same time as the rest of my watercooling kit (which includes the soon-to-be-released pump adapter)

Would it be possible to synchronise the arrival of the pump adapter with the restocking of the H220-X on FrozenCPU?


----------



## ciarlatano

I seem to be caught in some kind of "Groundhog Day" with 350Ds. It seems everywhere I turn these days I see complaints about difficult liquid cooling installs on pieces that I had absolutely no issues with. The H220-X, XSPC bayres, several rads, etc.... When the "what are the rest of your components?" comes up, the 350D seems to continually be the actual culprit.

Nothing to do with the H220-X, really. Just struck me as I was even seeing the issue here.


----------



## icecpu

will H220-X compatible right out of box for the socket 2011-3 (X99) releasing next week ?
looking for to pickup 5820K and this cooler.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I seem to be caught in some kind of "Groundhog Day" with 350Ds. It seems everywhere I turn these days I see complaints about difficult liquid cooling installs on pieces that I had absolutely no issues with. The H220-X, XSPC bayres, several rads, etc.... When the "what are the rest of your components?" comes up, the 350D seems to continually be the actual culprit.
> 
> Nothing to do with the H220-X, really. Just struck me as I was even seeing the issue here.


The issue I had with the H220x is that I was expecting a light-weight and 25mm rad, and got a monster. So in that respect, the issue is mostly on my clumsiness and the 350D being about 1mm shorter than it should be. I don't think Corsair had intended for the 350D to be remotely capable of bayres mounts and 29mm to 30mm rads; the fact that with some finagling, it can manage these mods, says just how good this case actually is.

Corsair idea: H100i + Maximus VII Gene = happiness

OCN Idea: h220x (or bigger) + maximus VII GENE + 240mm monsta rad up front = happiness


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> will H220-X compatible right out of box for the socket 2011-3 (X99) releasing next week ?
> looking for to pickup 5820K and this cooler.


Yes. Same mounting as LGA 2011.


----------



## jam71

Excuse me, but I who live in Italy I can not buy from the site Swiftech?


----------



## jam71

Edit double post sorry!


----------



## NasaGT

Nowhere... At first the H220X should arive Europe in the first week of August...

Now its expected for end of August / beginning of September -.-

Only way is to order it from the USA, pay 20 dollars or so for shipment wait 1- 2 Weeks to its arival, then wait for your customs and pay very much taxes!

And if you need Support because its won't work well, you have to send it back in the USA!!

I would wait two weeks and I would pay more.
But only support in the USA if you have an problem, this is crap!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> The issue I had with the H220x is that I was expecting a light-weight and 25mm rad, and got a monster. So in that respect, the issue is mostly on my clumsiness and the 350D being about 1mm shorter than it should be. I don't think Corsair had intended for the 350D to be remotely capable of bayres mounts and 29mm to 30mm rads; *the fact that with some finagling, it can manage these mods, says just how good this case actually is.*


Can't say I agree with that. One could make that same statement about the box the 350D was packed in. Corsair being Corsair designed it specifically to fit their own products, not with thought to fitting open loop components. So, I tend to see it as a lack of versatility and compatibility.

You need to keep in mind, that for the amount of performance and the components you are getting, the H220-X takes up very little room in the case.


----------



## fleetfeather

Agreed with above. Corsair weren't thinking about companies who make competing products when they spec'd out the 350D. Corsair will aim to accommodate Corsair products, because that's good for their business model.

Corsair design strat = Corsair Products > Better products


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can't say I agree with that. One could make that same statement about the box the 350D was packed in. Corsair being Corsair designed it specifically to fit their own products, not with thought to fitting open loop components. So, I tend to see it as a lack of versatility and compatibility.
> 
> You need to keep in mind, that for the amount of performance and the components you are getting, the H220-X takes up very little room in the case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Agreed with above. Corsair weren't thinking about companies who make competing products when they spec'd out the 350D. Corsair will aim to accommodate Corsair products, because that's good for their business model.
> 
> Corsair design strat = Corsair Products > Better products


Oh I know, and I'm not disagreeing. Corsair designed it to work with corsair stuff, so the fact that a 29mm rad is a bit tight isn't the fault of Swiftech. But, if we take YOUR arguments, then why doesn't the H105 - a corsair product and a 38mm rad - fit?

Jason


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Oh I know, and I'm not disagreeing. Corsair designed it to work with corsair stuff, so the fact that a 29mm rad is a bit tight isn't the fault of Swiftech. But, if we take YOUR arguments, then why doesn't the H105 - a corsair product and a 38mm rad - fit?
> 
> Jason


Lack of future insight. 105 was released over a year after the 350D, IIRC. Corsairs turn around on products isn't that long; they released SP120 LED fans a mere 5-6 months after they were requested.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Fair enough. Ultimately though, the H220x fit, so I'm a happy camper. It looks awesome up in there as well, and it's VERY, VERY, quiet.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Oh I know, and I'm not disagreeing. Corsair designed it to work with corsair stuff, so the fact that a 29mm rad is a bit tight isn't the fault of Swiftech. But, if we take YOUR arguments, then why doesn't the H105 - a corsair product and a 38mm rad - fit?
> 
> Jason


Actually, it seems more like Corsair products are designed to _force_ you to buy other Corsair products. But, that is the story for another thread.

The reason that the H105 doesn't fit was likely intentional due to the fact that the H105 was still known as the Tt Water 2.0 Extreme at the time.....

And with the H220-X around, the H105/Water X.0 becomes a "who cares", anyway. Why would you go to something that is not expandable, has less compatibility, is significantly louder and doesn't offer as much performance?


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Yes. Same mounting as LGA 2011.


Great , thanks

I have read somewhere in this thread that there's $10 discount code " OCN " , but the code don't work for me . What's the deal here ?


----------



## cennis

are the fittings on the waterblock G1/4 and removable? (i.e can I use my own compression fittings?)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> Great , thanks
> 
> I have read somewhere in this thread that there's $10 discount code " OCN " , but the code don't work for me . What's the deal here ?


This code has since expired. It was only good for a short while.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> are the fittings on the waterblock G1/4 and removable? (i.e can I use my own compression fittings?)


Yes, the fittings on the block are standard G 1/4 fittings and thus can be changed out for any size fittings that you want. The only fitting on the kit that isn't right now is the one on the pump. We are producing an adapter for this port and it will be available soon. I don't have an ETA on it as of right now, but it should be available soon.


----------



## UnStableFPS

Yay got my h220x today. To bad I have to work now. I'll install tonight after work.

So with that 8 way splitter that came with it, I don't need my fan controller anymore? What's a good program to use, so I'll be able to see rpm's and all that? I have asus sabertooth gen3 990fx. 1 last question can I still use my 1 to 2 pwm fan splitter cables with this? So, I can have 2 fans on one port or would that be no bueno?

Thanks


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Yay got my h220x today. To bad I have to work now. I'll install tonight after work.
> 
> So with that 8 way splitter that came with it, I don't need my fan controller anymore? What's a good program to use, so I'll be able to see rpm's and all that? I have asus sabertooth gen3 990fx. 1 last question can I still use my 1 to 2 pwm fan splitter cables with this? So, I can have 2 fans on one port or would that be no bueno?
> 
> Thanks


The splitter will send the same PWM signal to devices connected to the splitter. You will only be able to monitor the RPM of the device which is connected to the first channel (the one that ships with the red cap) everything else will get the same PWM signal (%) but you will not be able to monitor their RPMs. The power is drawn from the SATA (MOLEX?) plug and not the motherboard header, so it is safe to use many devices off of it. I would not suggest using the splitters off of the 8 port splitter, as they will start to draw more power than the board is designed to output in each of the headers.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Bryan,

When is the dual 240mm variant coming out?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I seem to be caught in some kind of "Groundhog Day" with 350Ds. It seems everywhere I turn these days I see complaints about difficult liquid cooling installs on pieces that I had absolutely no issues with. The H220-X, XSPC bayres, several rads, etc.... When the "what are the rest of your components?" comes up, the 350D seems to continually be the actual culprit.
> 
> Nothing to do with the H220-X, really. Just struck me as I was even seeing the issue here.



Larger View

Larger View

I managed to get the H220x in and I still fit a 3.5 HD in the lower 5.25 bay right under the res. I dont think it actually shows in the picture, but that particular area was the hardest part. I barely had room for the connectors and the hose that feeds the res on the H220X. It was not fun connecting all of those hoses, and I also updated the rest of my loop from 1/2 to 5/8 tubing at the same time. Needless to say I almost had the whole machine stripped down to get it done. And I am running two pumps and two reservoirs now too. There isn't much room left for anything else at this point...

To the thread; the H220X works great with two pumps and it is getting more and more quiet as the air exits the system. I would gather it is much easier to bleed the system with an extra reservoir, although mine is at the very bottom of the loop. The temps for both GPUs went down and the CPU temps are about the same as they were with the H100i. The WB install can be tricky but I advise setting it at least once before applying thermal paste to get the procedure down. I set my block to cut the hoses and it made installing the block that much easier once the hoses were attached. I run the H220's pump at around 35% for idle and it is very quiet at the moment.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> When is the dual 240mm variant coming out?


We don't have a solid release date for it right now. We are hoping to release it though in about a month or so.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

I just got mine in but I cant tell if there is coolant in it. It looks bone dry when looking through the reservoir. If I tilt it, shouldnt I be able to see the top of the coolant level, or no? Or is the coolant all settled into one spot (like in the radiator)?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I just got mine in but I cant tell if there is coolant in it. It looks bone dry when looking through the reservoir. If I tilt it, shouldnt I be able to see the top of the coolant level, or no? Or is the coolant all settled into one spot (like in the radiator)?


You being serious?


----------



## CastleBravo

Has anyone tested for a CPU temp decrease after draining their H220X and filling with distilled+biocide? I would think a small gain would be possible since it comes from the factory with enough propylene glycol mixed in to support a three year zero maintenance warranty.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> You being serious?


Lol, I was thinking the same thing. Kinda reminded me of people who were asking how to know whether the pump was on or not. I can see the impeller on my pump spinning in the window of my case in good light.


----------



## Mms60r

Noob question, I got an H220x to go with a 140mm rad for a cpu + gpu loop. Sadly the h220x and the rad won't fit in my Corsair 250D at the same time. Do you guys think the h220x can cool my 4770k AND a Radeon 7990 by itself? I have noctua ppc pwm fans for the rad if that makes a difference at all.


----------



## Jugurnot

Fingers crossed my order on NCIX went through for the Apogee XL block that went on sale for $45 with free shipping! It was sold out RIGHT after my payment processed. It was in the clearance section, which I find odd for something so new.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mms60r*
> 
> Noob question, I got an H220x to go with a 140mm rad for a cpu + gpu loop. Sadly the h220x and the rad won't fit in my Corsair 250D at the same time. Do you guys think the h220x can cool my 4770k AND a Radeon 7990 by itself? I have noctua ppc pwm fans for the rad if that makes a difference at all.


I've worked with those cards and they produce some serious heat. You might be able to get away with it if your ambient temperature is low enough, but any kind of overclocking that requires a voltage increase will cause you some issues with stability. That hardware configuration would be better served with a second radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

/3rd/4rth


----------



## Mms60r

I was afraid of that but I figured. Thanks for the help


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't have a solid release date for it right now. We are hoping to release it though in about a month or so.


oh wow, so a H280-X (?) is indeed in the works then? I thought the H220-X was going to be the only viable option?

Any chance the H280-X (?) might come with the pump adapter fitting bundled?


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CastleBravo*
> 
> Has anyone tested for a CPU temp decrease after draining their H220X and filling with distilled+biocide? I would think a small gain would be possible since it comes from the factory with enough propylene glycol mixed in to support a three year zero maintenance warranty.


Why am I nervous about considering rig cooling suggestions from someone using an avatar name culled from a runaway nuclear explosion?


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> swiftech H220-X in stock now!!...
> 
> go go go!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> THIS IS CORRECT!


Duly ordered... and the US$67.40 shipping cost to Australia hurts me in ways you can't imagine









Still cheaper than (or equal cost to) my original long-term H105 to dual 480mm custom loop setup because I get to reuse the waterblock and it lets me add the first 480mm rad without needing anything more than tubing. Hopefully.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> oh wow, so a H280-X (?) is indeed in the works then? I thought the H220-X was going to be the only viable option?
> 
> Any chance the H280-X (?) might come with the pump adapter fitting bundled?


It will be called the H240X







.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It will be called the H240X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


dat naming convention haha


----------



## UnStableFPS

Ok call me stupid, but I don't see how you get the 4 screws off to change the colored plates??


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Ok call me stupid, but I don't see how you get the 4 screws off to change the colored plates??


From what I've seen they are just push pins. You can take a flat head screwdriver to pull them up.


----------



## NasaGT

@Bram
can you now tell us, when the Swiftech Stuff (H220, Maelstrom V2, Apogee XL, PWM Splitter...) arrive Europe an will be available in EU Shops?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Ok call me stupid, but I don't see how you get the 4 screws off to change the colored plates??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> From what I've seen they are just push pins. You can take a flat head screwdriver to pull them up.


Fingernail is best. A screwdriver can scratch the acrylic. I would recommend a pin of some sort to pry the color plate out at one of the holes though, as, at least on my XLC waterblock, it would stick in easily and would not come out with my hand or a tap. I used a single pronk from a bent fork to pry it out.


----------



## UnStableFPS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Fingernail is best. A screwdriver can scratch the acrylic. I would recommend a pin of some sort to pry the color plate out at one of the holes though, as, at least on my XLC waterblock, it would stick in easily and would not come out with my hand or a tap. I used a single pronk from a bent fork to pry it out.


Gracias!!


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Just got mine installed and Im surprised at how quiet this thing is. Compared to my h60, this is a dream. The h60 would make so much noise that late at night it would actually put me to sleep. Well, time to start testing. Because Im lazy, and dont want to look it up, will I see varying fan speeds or does it just spin enough to push air through the radiator fins?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Just got mine installed and Im surprised at how quiet this thing is. Compared to my h60, this is a dream. The h60 would make so much noise that late at night it would actually put me to sleep. Well, time to start testing. Because Im lazy, and dont want to look it up, will I see varying fan speeds or does it just spin enough to push air through the radiator fins?


The fans support PWM functionality and therefore can be controlled through your motherboard via a PWM header or through the use of our splitter.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Gracias!!


de nada


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnStableFPS*
> 
> Ok call me stupid, but I don't see how you get the 4 screws off to change the colored plates??


Don't know if you already did it, but for anyone else interested an exacto knife or utility knife worked best. I tried needle nose pliers and scuffed the edge of one, I had to file it down lightly. Second time was the charm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Just got mine installed and Im surprised at how quiet this thing is. Compared to my h60, this is a dream. The h60 would make so much noise that late at night it would actually put me to sleep. Well, time to start testing. Because Im lazy, and dont want to look it up, will I see varying fan speeds or does it just spin enough to push air through the radiator fins?


If you hooked the fans to the PWM splitter they will spin at the same percent as the pump. You can either control it in your BIOS, or use aftermarket programs in Windows. I use AI Suite 3.0 (aka Fan Xpert or Speedfan) and it works excellent. The pump is connected to CPU_FAN and the 8 way splitter is connected to CPU_OPT with 4 Corsair SP120 performance fans connected to it. This way I can monitor speeds of both the pump and the fans while settings my fan curve. I can link the pump and fans directly to the water temp sensor (or other sensors on the motherboard) and have it change speeds depending on the conditions. So you have to either set the CPU fan curve in BIOS or use aftermarket software in Windows to control the pump and fans how you want...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> It will be called the H240X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


And we are working on both H240-X and H140-X. I am pushing to release all this before end of September and will personally go to factory to inspect products as they roll-out from production.
These are exciting times. with all 3 models covering a majority of the user's needs and configurations, we really hope to give our performance oriented users some solid cooling and modding tools there.

One question I have for you guys. I am planning on releasing the H140-X in two versions: a complete AIO CPU cooler, and the radiator+pump+fan combo as a standalone item for graphics cooling. I mentionned this at CES, but some of the video footage was lost, and I'm not sure the comments I made are still there. The idea for this is that many people who purchased AIO kits from the competition have no way of liquid cooling their graphics card. This would allow them to a cool their graphics without having to toss away their CPU cooler. Some other folks might also want to have two separate cooling solutions, one for CPU and one for graphics.

My question is this: do you guys believe that there is much demand/need for this, or not ? any comments welcome


----------



## BenJaminJr

I think a 140mm for vga cooling would sell. As long as it was under 100 bucks because water blocks aren't cheap. It would be better if you can up with a mounting system like the g10 that used just a universal mount and you included a bracket and fan for vrm cooling. Maybe 2 options? Just thinking out loud


----------



## VSG

Gabe- I assume you are referring to having a card with a waterblock already attached and then the user hooks up the rad/res/pump/fan to the GPU with tubing, fittings that would come with the kit (pretty much the same as H140-x without the Apogee XL)?

As Benjamin said above, most people who have a waterblock also likely will go with rads/reservoirs and pumps separate. This might end up being a niche for those with smaller cases and minimizing the work into putting a custom loop together.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> And we are working on both H240-X and H140-X. I am pushing to release all this before end of September and will personally go to factory to inspect products as they roll-out from production.
> These are exciting times. with all 3 models covering a majority of the user's needs and configurations, we really hope to give our performance oriented users some solid cooling and modding tools there.
> 
> One question I have for you guys. I am planning on releasing the H140-X in two versions: a complete AIO CPU cooler, and the radiator+pump+fan combo as a standalone item for graphics cooling. I mentionned this at CES, but some of the video footage was lost, and I'm not sure the comments I made are still there. The idea for this is that many people who purchased AIO kits from the competition have no way of liquid cooling their graphics card. This would allow them to a cool their graphics without having to toss away their CPU cooler. Some other folks might also want to have two separate cooling solutions, one for CPU and one for graphics.
> 
> My question is this: do you guys believe that there is much demand/need for this, or not ? any comments welcome


is this 140x version going to be full integrated rad pump res like the 220x or will they be seperate components..i would possibly be intrested to combine this with the h220x to add some redundancy and to expand the loop to include vrm block and graphics cooling... i like the idea and im happy with my h220x so far even though my case wasnt ready for it


----------



## fleetfeather

I'd personally prefer to see the Rad/Res/Pump combo together as an additional buying option. I can see it working in a few scenarios:

- Redundancy pump that doesn't take up a large area
- Extra fill-and-bleed area for those people with otherwise hard to bleed setups
- Cost-effective option for people who already have a block that they feel works well with their system

However, its success in the marketplace might be pinned on the price of such a kit, as these scenarios above aren't mission-critical for getting a loop up and running in contrast to your own aforementioned scenario. How much cheaper do you guys feel you could bring such a kit to market compared to a full kit like the currently-available H220-X?

edit: typo


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'd personally prefer to see the Rad/Res/Pump combo together as an additional buying option. I can see it working in a few scenarios:
> 
> - Redundancy pump that doesn't take up a large area
> - Extra fill-and-bleed area for those people with otherwise hard to bleed setups
> - Cost-effective option for people who already have a block that they feel works well with their system
> 
> However, it's success in the marketplace might be pinned on the price of such a kit, as these scenarios above aren't mission-critical for getting a loop up and running in contrast to your own aforementioned scenario. How much cheaper do you guys feel you could bring such a kit to market compared to a full kit like the currently-available H220-X?


If I had to guess, I would think it to be about $90 for a pump/res/rad combo.


----------



## Dudewitbow

I myself would like the rad res pump combo if priced right, but to be used with GPU's would be a question on availability of cheap GPU water blocks. the goal would be an attempt to get the whole unit to under 100$ with the block and sufficient VRM cooling, which IMO is the hardest thing to do in a value sized package(100$ being the price of a gpu bracket + AIO solution). Of course, the pump is stronger and the parts have more quality, but I still dont think that it would have the same kind of market penetration unless it came with a cheap solution for a block. The other weakness is that the reservoir is not friendly on bottom oriented positions, making the gpu really only usable from the back 140mm slot on cases(assuming there is no clearance issue with a top radiator fan, as its likely to happen with people who buy these products) or the front 140mm fan slots on a traditional tower based case.

with universal blocks starting at 35$ up to around 60$ for higher end ones(slightly lower if people realize there exist chinese import blocks), its hard to make a budget solution with a pump/res/rad combo, especially since most universal blocks do not have VRM cooling solutions, and the ones that need them are the ones this "gpu oriented" product is going to target, namely Gtx x70 or better or Radeon r9 #80 or better cards.

A better place to gauge interest in my opinion are the "Red Mod" threads and similar. Since these are the guys who have AIO based units and are WC their gpus without custom loop prices.

edit: IMO the demand for a prebuilt WC gpu unit will be higher. I dont think the pump res rad will hit as hard. what it needs to do is essentially beat the Arctic Accelero Hybrid in value, be marketed better and still hold a value closer to the prebuilt AIO solutions price to stay competitive


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The fans support PWM functionality and therefore can be controlled through your motherboard via a PWM header or through the use of our splitter.


Right now I'm just running it with the splitter the exact way the instructions said to set it up. That way I can get a feel for how I want this thing to work.

Anyone else get a weird smell? I looked all around and all of my wired are away from anything hot. All my temps are fine. Is that the thermal paste that it comes with? I was going to use my own but figured to be safe I would use the stuff in the box. I hope this goes away


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> My question is this: do you guys believe that there is much demand/need for this, or not ? any comments welcome


You guys certainly have been innovative recently, and it seems to have paid off with a very popular and attractive product. I was roped into water cooling because I obtained a second GTX 770 locally for a steal but they were just too damn hot in my mATX case. I originally wanted to use an AIO cooler (or two) and was hesitant to even think about designing and building a custom loop. I liked Asetek's 740CQ design because it could be used to cool two GPU's or a CPU and GPU fairly easily with quick connects. But they didn't sell them to consumers and I didn't want to design some kind of bracket for a fan to cool the vrms. If there was at least a decent option at the time odds are that I would have bought it and adapted it vs researching and building a custom loop.

This seems to be a common issue in the high end graphic card threads, especially when members add a second card (and make the investment) only to realize that air cooling isn't going to get it done. I have suggested building a custom loop like I did, but it is costly and some folks are overwhelmed by the idea. I think the real trick is designing the water block so it is low profile and can easily clear the closely spaced cards and possibly also hold a fan (optional maybe) bracket for the VRM cooling. Your design would be more attractive because it is typically expandable and likely wouldn't house the pump on the block, so more cards or the cpu can be added easily without purchasing and installing yet another AIO cooling unit for each piece of hardware. If it was available a few months ago I would have bought it for sure and likely eased myself into hybrid water cooling. Just my point of view. Absolutely love the H220X by the way, great addition to my loop.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> And we are working on both H240-X and H140-X. I am pushing to release all this before end of September and will personally go to factory to inspect products as they roll-out from production.
> These are exciting times. with all 3 models covering a majority of the user's needs and configurations, we really hope to give our performance oriented users some solid cooling and modding tools there.
> 
> One question I have for you guys. I am planning on releasing the H140-X in two versions: a complete AIO CPU cooler, and the radiator+pump+fan combo as a standalone item for graphics cooling. I mentionned this at CES, but some of the video footage was lost, and I'm not sure the comments I made are still there. The idea for this is that many people who purchased AIO kits from the competition have no way of liquid cooling their graphics card. This would allow them to a cool their graphics without having to toss away their CPU cooler. Some other folks might also want to have two separate cooling solutions, one for CPU and one for graphics.
> 
> My question is this: do you guys believe that there is much demand/need for this, or not ? any comments welcome


Make a 140mm mount for a GPU mount that i can stick on the front of my case with a fan, and i'm in. (ie: half-sized h240x with the provisions for a 780 Ti or 780)

Jason


----------



## EarlZ

I would love to water cool my GPU but the price on the blocks are very unreasonable IMHO.


----------



## Mega Man

If you look at the amount of copper and cnc work it isn't really that bad


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone,whats up? I been busy these past few days but thought about something. What is the most EFFECTIVE thermal paste for the h220 x? How does the swiftech thermal paste compare to the IC diamond,Arctic Silver MX 4 and Arctic Silver 5,etc?

*tell me if what i did is wrong*
ok,so long story short,i currently have right now as thermal paste is a combination of the noctua nh1 and swiftech. i am seeing temp issues of sorts,but can that be a factor?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone,whats up? I been busy these past few days but thought about something. What is the most EFFECTIVE thermal paste for the h220 x? How does the swiftech thermal paste compare to the IC diamond,Arctic Silver MX 4 and Arctic Silver 5,etc?
> 
> *tell me if what i did is wrong*
> ok,so long story short,i currently have right now as thermal paste is a combination of the noctua nh1 and swiftech. i am seeing temp issues of sorts,but can that be a factor?


Thermal Paste only has an effect if applied incorrectly.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone,whats up? I been busy these past few days but thought about something. What is the most EFFECTIVE thermal paste for the h220 x? How does the swiftech thermal paste compare to the IC diamond,Arctic Silver MX 4 and Arctic Silver 5,etc?
> 
> *tell me if what i did is wrong*
> ok,so long story short,i currently have right now as thermal paste is a combination of the noctua nh1 and swiftech. i am seeing temp issues of sorts,but can that be a factor?


Are you saying that you mixed the two together? That wouldn't be good. Use one or the other (I personally prefer the Noctua) in proper amount.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you saying that you mixed the two together? That wouldn't be good. Use one or the other (I personally prefer the Noctua) in proper amount.


yes,thats exactly what im saying.i have 2 thermal paste together. do you think that has an effect on it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> yes,thats exactly what im saying.i have 2 thermal paste together. do you think that has an effect on it?


Yes, use one or the other in proper amount. The proper amount would be approximately the size of a grain of rice in the center of the CPU.


----------



## paoloandre

my h220 just started to produce this cracklingsound everytime i power it on, i tried filling up the rad with more distilled and wiggle it with to all possible angles because i suspected air was in the pump, no success, the sound is still here. i tried adding 2 drops of dishwashing soap too as i have read in some articles but still no success. my h220 doesnt have warranty anymore, what should i do?

i dont know if you can watch this but here is the sound
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=640804026016778&set=vb.100002615586496&type=2&theater


----------



## cyborgo09

I've tested H320. I also have Kraken X60.

The result:

Ambient 30.5 C

4790K 4.7GHz 1.209 V

Cinebench 11.529

RealTemp 3.70

H320 Max core temp 74 C(TIM is TM2)

Kraken X60(Extreme 2,000rpm) 65 C(TIM is AS-5)

I'm pretty impressed.







I replaced the center fan of H320 to 3,600 rpm fan which one is for PCH cooling.

Today I replaced the TIM from AS-5 to Gelid's GC-EXTREME and now the max core temp 63C at 28.5°C ambient temperature with X60.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyborgo09*
> 
> I've tested H320. I also have Kraken X60.
> 
> The result:
> 
> Ambient 30.5 C
> 
> 4790K 4.7GHz 1.209 V
> 
> Cinebench 11.529
> 
> RealTemp 3.70
> 
> H320 Max core temp 74 C(TIM is TM2)
> 
> Kraken X60(Extreme 2,000rpm) 65 C(TIM is AS-5)
> 
> I'm pretty impressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the center fan of H320 to 3,600 rpm fan which one is for PCH cooling.
> 
> Today I replaced the TIM from AS-5 to Gelid's GC-EXTREME and now the max core temp 63C at 28.5°C ambient temperature with X60.


If you have an X60 outperforming an H320 by 9 degrees......I can only guess that your H320 is installed incorrectly or defective. I have had multiple X60s, H220s and 240Ls in benchmarking sessions and the X60 performs about on par with them (just with a lot more noise).


----------



## NasaGT

@ [email protected] or BramSLI1

Can someone of you please tell us what is abbout Europe/EU??

*When can we finally expect H220-X, Maelstrom V2, MCP50X, and the PWM Splitter?* The Apogee XL is alreade here in some shops...

*I want to build an nearly Full Swiftech Loop!








*

And clearly i also want to have Support in Europe and not have to ship back to USA if something has a problem...

Your stuff is too awesome to wait months for it!!!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> @ [email protected] or BramSLI1
> 
> Can someone of you please tell us what is abbout Europe/EU??
> 
> *When can we finally expect H220-X, Maelstrom V2, MCP50X, and the PWM Splitter?* The Apogee XL is alreade here in some shops...
> 
> *I want to build an nearly Full Swiftech Loop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> And clearly i also want to have Support in Europe and not have to ship back to USA if something has a problem...
> 
> Your stuff is too awesome to wait months for it!!!


The H220-X will be available in the EU within the next week or so. The other products will likely be available in the next 3 to 4 weeks. I don't think we've shipped that order yet for the other products and that's the reason for the delay. I believe that it's supposed to go out next week though. I'll try to confirm that when I get into work on Monday.


----------



## Scotty99

Is swiftech making a x-320 to replace the h320 that i cant buy in the US? I am seriously contemplating getting a phanteks enthoo luxe (after previously having my mind set on a bitfenix prodigy lol) and that 360mm rad up top would be great in there!


----------



## Turt1e

I just installed my H220 and the both fans are making loud grinding noises. I've checked if they're being obstructed but it seems like its the fan itself. Is there anything I can do to fix this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Is swiftech making a x-320 to replace the h320 that i cant buy in the US? I am seriously contemplating getting a phanteks enthoo luxe (after previously having my mind set on a bitfenix prodigy lol) and that 360mm rad up top would be great in there!


We don't have any plans to make an X-320 because the placement of the reservoir and pump would cause too many incompatibility issues because it would take up too much space in the front drive bays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I just installed my H220 and the both fans are making loud grinding noises. I've checked if they're being obstructed but it seems like its the fan itself. Is there anything I can do to fix this?


Do you have the fans connected to a PWM header or our splitter? Normally these kinds of noises are associated with a PWM device being used on a voltage regulated header.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Is swiftech making a x-320 to replace the h320 that i cant buy in the US? I am seriously contemplating getting a phanteks enthoo luxe (after previously having my mind set on a bitfenix prodigy lol) and that 360mm rad up top would be great in there!


Only a 240x and a 140x is planned for maximum compatibility with the cases in the current market. Of course it never stops someone from buying a smaller unit and adding in their own choice of a 360mm radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I just installed my H220 and the both fans are making loud grinding noises. I've checked if they're being obstructed but it seems like its the fan itself. Is there anything I can do to fix this?


if the fans are hitting the bottom black piece under the fan, I find applying a bit of pressure pushing the fan out(no serious pressure, enough so it slightly moves it) should be able to fix the fan from scraping against the bar. of course, this assumes that its the bar and not the fan itself


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you have the fans connected to a PWM header or our splitter? Normally these kinds of noises are associated with a PWM device being used on a voltage regulated header.


It is connected to the splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if the fans are hitting the bottom black piece under the fan, I find applying a bit of pressure pushing the fan out(no serious pressure, enough so it slightly moves it) should be able to fix the fan from scraping against the bar. of course, this assumes that its the bar and not the fan itself


I dont think its hitting anything, the noise is on both fans and it doesnt look to be touching anything.


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,its me,and i wont stop until im satisfied with my temps....anyway,i ordered some arctic MX 4 thermal paste.....are these temps good? i reapplied thermal paste since i had 2 different compounds previously.it wont go past 70


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't have any plans to make an X-320 because the placement of the reservoir and pump would cause too many incompatibility issues because it would take up too much space in the front drive bays.
> Do you have the fans connected to a PWM header or our splitter? Normally these kinds of noises are associated with a PWM device being used on a voltage regulated header.


Dang! Ive never really entertained the idea of doing full on water cooling but i like the enthoo luxe so much i may try my hand at a 360mm setup just for the CPU, anyone got a link to the cheapest way i can get this done? (is it possible to do this under 200 bucks? If not i think ill have to go with thermaltake water 3.0 ultimate).


----------



## Dudewitbow

I personally think its pretty good for a processor that probably isn't delidded


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I personally think its pretty good for a processor that probably isn't delidded


its funny you even mention that.i was actually looking that up. didnt know that existed. what exactly is it? you open it up and then what? why doesnt everyone delid? and what are the pros and cons


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> its funny you even mention that.i was actually looking that up. didnt know that existed. what exactly is it? you open it up and then what? why doesnt everyone delid? and what are the pros and cons


delid is essentially taking to your own hands either direct die cooling(cooler to the actual chip) or changing the thermal paste under the lid with something extremely high end(Coollaboratory Liquid Pro). Disadvantage is that it can brick CPUS if done incorrectly and can void warranty if you are terrible at hiding that its delidded(basically requires you to glue back the lid if you send it back), not that I support sending back things with voided warranties or anything









Pros:
Extreme noticeable temperature drop

Cons:
Warranty
Chance to kill chip to paperweight.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> its funny you even mention that.i was actually looking that up. didnt know that existed. what exactly is it? you open it up and then what? why doesnt everyone delid? and what are the pros and cons


What he said above. Do you notice that cores 3 and 4 run cooler than the first and second? Deliding can bring the temps closer together and lower your max temps by up to 10C. But it is not something that is recommended if you have a decent overclocker. If you ruin it you could end up with a chip that is even worse, and you'll have to pay for it.

Don't stress over temps because it isn't going to actually improve your OC by a wide margin. Better temps only allow you to stress test higher voltages, it doesn't actually make the silicone any better. Is your CPU throttling while stress testing? Or are your temps holding you back from higher multipliers? Once you dial in your OC you are not going to see temps that high doing things like gaming, benchmarking, video compression, or everyday computing. So just consider that before you do something that you can't reverse.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hey Guys,
I'm on my 2nd H320 having RMA'd the 1st back in December for faulty Pump. This 2nd H320 has been fine for 8 Months until now, it's basically started to behave as the 1st one did from the start as in, 9 times out of 10 when I power on, the pump fails to start and my CPU (i7 950) hits about 80 c. I have ditched my Overclock to avoid frying my Processor as it was pretty much hitting 100 c within seconds O/Clocked.

I don't think this can be trapped air as I haven't opened the fill port since Ownership and it's been fine for 8 months, I also don't get any noise from the pump which is hooked up as recommended via port 1 on the included splitter and speed controlled via the splitters PWM cable to my cpu header. I have it set to run at 50% up to 40 c and then ramp up to 80% speed above 40 c via the Bios.

I find that I can get the pump started within about 60 seconds of my pc switching on by entering the bios and adjusting the speed settings up & down, this usually gets the pump running & temperatures drop immediately to mid 30's c.

I'm disappointed with Swiftech TBH, their support is 1st class but having read of so many RMA's on the Swiftech Forums I cant help but feel that this is a flawed product, have e-mailed Swiftech in France which is where my H320 came from via Amazon to see what my options are.

The pump only fails to start when the PC has been off for several hours, typically overnight, If switched off for only 1-2 hours the pump starts just fine, any ideas as to what this might be??


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I'm on my 2nd H320 having RMA'd the 1st back in December for faulty Pump. This 2nd H320 has been fine for 8 Months until now, it's basically started to behave as the 1st one did from the start as in, 9 times out of 10 when I power on, the pump fails to start and my CPU (i7 950) hits about 80 c. I have ditched my Overclock to avoid frying my Processor as it was pretty much hitting 100 c within seconds O/Clocked.
> 
> I don't think this can be trapped air as I haven't opened the fill port since Ownership and it's been fine for 8 months, I also don't get any noise from the pump which is hooked up as recommended via port 1 on the included splitter and speed controlled via the splitters PWM cable to my cpu header. I have it set to run at 50% up to 40 c and then ramp up to 80% speed above 40 c via the Bios.
> 
> I find that I can get the pump started within about 60 seconds of my pc switching on by entering the bios and adjusting the speed settings up & down, this usually gets the pump running & temperatures drop immediately to mid 30's c.
> 
> I'm disappointed with Swiftech TBH, their support is 1st class but having read of so many RMA's on the Swiftech Forums I cant help but feel that this is a flawed product, have e-mailed Swiftech in France which is where my H320 came from via Amazon to see what my options are.
> 
> The pump only fails to start when the PC has been off for several hours, typically overnight, If switched off for only 1-2 hours the pump starts just fine, any ideas as to what this might be??


My first thought is plasticizer build up. I would Skype with Bryan so he can oversee the disassembly of the unit and clean it out really good, if you feel comfortable doing so. That would help you avoid most of the RMA downtime if that is indeed the issue.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Thx Phelan,

Is Plasticizer build up an ongoing problem with watercooling, this is my first watercooler so I'm a beginner to it!

It would be great to avoid the RMA downtime but if I drain it I'm probably gonna need more coolant which I don't have anyway, will speak with Brian and see what he suggests, he was very good the 1st time round


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Thx Phelan,
> 
> Is Plasticizer build up an ongoing problem with watercooling, this is my first watercooler so I'm a beginner to it!
> 
> It would be great to avoid the RMA downtime but if I drain it I'm probably gonna need more coolant which I don't have anyway, will speak with Brian and see what he suggests, he was very good the 1st time round


Just use distilled water


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Thx Phelan,
> 
> Is Plasticizer build up an ongoing problem with watercooling, this is my first watercooler so I'm a beginner to it!
> 
> It would be great to avoid the RMA downtime but if I drain it I'm probably gonna need more coolant which I don't have anyway, will speak with Brian and see what he suggests, he was very good the 1st time round


plasticizer is a common issue with most all watercooling, with few exceptions. You can always filter the existing coolant through a coffee filter, reuse it, and top it off with distilled water







.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey,this is for Bram or Gabe or anyone that knows how the warranty for the H220 x works, lets say if later on mine goes bad or feel something is wrong,how long do i have until i send it back for RMA?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Warranty goes as this:

Message swiftech about unit with proof of purchase date asking about rma

They send you shipping label in email you print out and tape to box with unit

You ship it

Wait till they send a unit back.

A valid time to send it in depends on when they give you a shipping label. I think those expire after a month after purchase


----------



## NasaGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H220-X will be available in the EU within the next week or so. The other products will likely be available in the next 3 to 4 weeks. I don't think we've shipped that order yet for the other products and that's the reason for the delay. I believe that it's supposed to go out next week though. *I'll try to confirm that when I get into work on Monday.*


Could you get any informations?


----------



## sdmf74

I never did get a response bryan about the new pump accessory so I went ahead with my build, couldn't put it off any longer. Anyway im really pleased with the results. as for the pump so far so good seems to be working well, its quiet and produces virtually no heat.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> I never did get a response bryan about the new pump accessory so I went ahead with my build, couldn't put it off any longer. Anyway im really pleased with the results. as for the pump so far so good seems to be working well, its quiet and produces virtually no heat.


Wow! That turned out great. I really like the lighting.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Thx Guys,

It's something for people to bear in mind when purchasing an all in one kit like the H320, that some maintenance may be necessary well within the 3 years suggested by Swiftech, I gotta admit I was hoping for a more maintenance free experience else I would have gone for a custom loop, to be fair though, Custom would have cost a lot more, thx for the help & advice!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> Could you get any informations?


I'm looking into it now. I'll have an answer for you shortly. It's another busy Monday here, but I'll have an answer for you soon.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paoloandre*
> 
> my h220 just started to produce this cracklingsound everytime i power it on, i tried filling up the rad with more distilled and wiggle it with to all possible angles because i suspected air was in the pump, no success, the sound is still here. i tried adding 2 drops of dishwashing soap too as i have read in some articles but still no success. my h220 doesnt have warranty anymore, what should i do?
> 
> i dont know if you can watch this but here is the sound
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=640804026016778&set=vb.100002615586496&type=2&theater


Please PM me about this so that I can assist you with this issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Thx Phelan,
> 
> Is Plasticizer build up an ongoing problem with watercooling, this is my first watercooler so I'm a beginner to it!
> 
> It would be great to avoid the RMA downtime but if I drain it I'm probably gonna need more coolant which I don't have anyway, will speak with Brian and see what he suggests, he was very good the 1st time round


I should be able to help you to resolve this. Please PM me so that I can assist you further with this issue.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Hey folks,

Just like to say after a year of faultless performance I had an issue with my h320

I've never had occasion to use swiftech support before,but I knew they had a great reputation

Bryan provided outstandingly great support,,some outside working hours,,I can't praise him enough

All products can develop faults but how its dealt with is as important to me as the product itself

In that respect,I would never hesitate to buy another swiftech product or to recommend them to people

Thanks bryan you rock


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Wow! That turned out great. I really like the lighting.


Thank You


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> plasticizer is a common issue with most all watercooling, with few exceptions. You can always filter the existing coolant through a coffee filter, reuse it, and top it off with distilled water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Norprene FTW:




plasticizer non issue


----------



## gdubc

My h220 sat unused for a year so I decided to flush it before use and the tubes were leaching plasticizer pretty badly. Replaced them with some ek norprene which to me looks better anyway.


----------



## Scotty99

This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.


I have my h220 for some time now and I love it, I have pulled it apart in quite a few times and have had no issues so you cant say that because not everyone is having trouble.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.


That's by design. Bryan, Stephen, Gabe, I, and many others have expressly promoted this page to anyone who might be having issues. Most of the RMAs are initiated right here in this thread, to streamline the process. As many issues as you hear about in here, doesn't change the fact that the vast majority of owners are not having any issues. Gabe has shared with us in the past that RMA claims are around 3%, which is the norm. But because of the traffic this thread gets, and draws users even from other forums to post here, it artificially inflates the perceived amount of issues with the units.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyberpunk71*
> 
> Thx Phelan,
> 
> Is Plasticizer build up an ongoing problem with watercooling, this is my first watercooler so I'm a beginner to it!
> 
> It would be great to avoid the RMA downtime but if I drain it I'm probably gonna need more coolant which I don't have anyway, will speak with Brian and see what he suggests, he was very good the 1st time round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plasticizer is a common issue with most all watercooling, with few exceptions. You can always filter the existing coolant through a coffee filter, reuse it, and top it off with distilled water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

* with flexible non neoprene tubing, plastisizer is what makes the tube flexable, not including rubber ( neoprene )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey,this is for Bram or Gabe or anyone that knows how the warranty for the H220 x works, lets say if later on mine goes bad or feel something is wrong,how long do i have until i send it back for RMA?


well. imo " feel something is wrong" is no reason to get an RMA, otherwise within the warranty period
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.
> 
> 
> 
> That's by design. Bryan, Stephen, Gabe, I, and many others have expressly promoted this page to anyone who might be having issues. Most of the RMAs are initiated right here in this thread, to streamline the process. As many issues as you hear about in here, doesn't change the fact that the vast majority of owners are not having any issues. Gabe has shared with us in the past that RMA claims are around 3%, which is the norm. But because of the traffic this thread gets, and draws users even from other forums to post here, it artificially inflates the perceived amount of issues with the units.
Click to expand...

yep, mine works just fine

on that note, who else lets the problems be saved forever in a thread like this, love to see *patent troll products* have a forum


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> That's by design. Bryan, Stephen, Gabe, I, and many others have expressly promoted this page to anyone who might be having issues. Most of the RMAs are initiated right here in this thread, to streamline the process. As many issues as you hear about in here, doesn't change the fact that the vast majority of owners are not having any issues. Gabe has shared with us in the past that RMA claims are around 3%, which is the norm. But because of the traffic this thread gets, and draws users even from other forums to post here, it artificially inflates the perceived amount of issues with the units.


This is so true, especially seeing this is the only thread discussing the H220x in any depth. So it is only normal that anyone having issues would post them here before contacting Swiftech directly, or use the forum to do exactly that. Not to mention the majority of RMA worthy posts have been mostly limited to older models and not the new generation of Swiftech coolers.

I don't care what other people ultimately buy, but I like to write reviews (on Amazon and Newegg mainly) and help people to make an informed decision. I read the reviews for items I buy and if I believed every one star review I read I wouldn't buy anything. It's all about reading between the lines, or in this case the posts. The H220X is a little tricky to install too, so some issues here are likely because of user error and not necessarily product failure. I also know for a fact the pump can make excess noise if air is present in the loop still. It took almost 4 days to bleed all the air from my custom loop, but my computer is typically sleeping during the day while I'm at work, so it could have gone faster maybe. If there is one knock on the H220x it would be the undocumented/ unknown bleed process while using it as an AIO unit. I had my other pump/res, so I just used that to fill, bleed, and maintain the loop. Besides that temps are excellent and the unit is very quiet (almost silent) while working with my EK 2.2 pump. The thing is worth it's price tag for sure...


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> This thread is just littered with people having problems, i wanted to buy a h320 but i think im gonna go with an AIO or........gasp.......an air cooler. Good to see the company follows up with the problems tho.


lol and you think and AIO's thread isnt 10x worse? lol just lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> lol and you think and AIO's thread isnt 10x worse? lol just lol


I do believe the RGB sailboat lighting has a hypnotic affect that prevents users from acknowledging the issues.....and even with that and the fact that this thread is specifically for issues and questions, this is still a much more issue free thread than any of the CLC threads.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> If there is one knock on the H220x it would be the undocumented/ unknown bleed process while using it as an AIO unit. I had my other pump/res, so I just used that to fill, bleed, and maintain the loop.


I was actually going to post and see if anyone had any information or tips for the bleeding process. If anyone has had to empty the unit and then needed to bleed the system, any info you can share would be great.

Later in the week I will be refilling mine and working on bleeding it so I will post up anything I notice that might make it easier. I'm figuring the usually shaking, tilting, using bleed screw and then just letting it run for a while.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I was actually going to post and see if anyone had any information or tips for the bleeding process. If anyone has had to empty the unit and then needed to bleed the system, any info you can share would be great.
> 
> Later in the week I will be refilling mine and working on bleeding it so I will post up anything I notice that might make it easier. I'm figuring the usually shaking, tilting, using bleed screw and then just letting it run for a while.


I've expanded one of these already to a second radiator and a GPU block. That's basically what I did and it took all of about 45 minutes to completely bleed it. I found this kit to be easier to bleed than many custom loops were.


----------



## BenJaminJr

I'm adding a second radiator soon, I don't see it being too hard to bleed


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've expanded one of these already to a second radiator and a GPU block. That's basically what I did and it took all of about 45 minutes to completely bleed it. I found this kit to be easier to bleed than many custom loops were.


That doesn't sound too bad at all. When I was working with it I only had it running for maybe 5 minutes while also shutting down and trying to get the larger pockets of air out via the bleed screw.

This time around I'll see what I can bleed and then just leave it running for a while. I'm going to be installing this and then once I update my video card I'll be expanding it, few times and I should have all the little tricks down.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've expanded one of these already to a second radiator and a GPU block. That's basically what I did and it took all of about 45 minutes to completely bleed it. I found this kit to be easier to bleed than many custom loops were.


Would you recommend bleeding the loop outside the case before it's installed? Maybe angled with the fill port facing upward? I only ask because the H220X' rad seemed to hold a small amount of air for a few days while in the horizontal position in my case. It eventually made its way down to my other pump/res after several days. I suspect it would also be easier to top it off that way once your finished. Like I said above, I have no experience doing it , but I noticed there was little documentation or video explaining it. So I'm not saying its difficult, just saying it's an unknown for potential buyers is all...

Also anyone complaining of pump noise (I have already seen a YouTube video created about this) likely has some air still trapped inside. I just wanted to let people know it is likely not a faulty pump, but something that can be fixed through bleeding. My pump went through a bunch of different sounds while still bleeding, but now finally is dead silent. So it would probably reassure potential buyers to go over the bleeding process so they aren't intimidated and settle for a crap AIO solution instead. The H220x is a excellent cooler in my book (def the best in its class), and it looks great too. I personally have no complaints with mine and it was well worth the investment.


----------



## NasaGT

@Bram

Sorry Bram,

I don't want to annoy you







, but yesterday you told me:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm looking into it now. I'll have an answer for you shortly. It's another busy Monday here, but I'll have an answer for you soon.


Did you got any results?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've expanded one of these already to a second radiator and a GPU block. That's basically what I did and it took all of about 45 minutes to completely bleed it. I found this kit to be easier to bleed than many custom loops were.


Funny I find it the other way around, in fact I love the h220 more in this aspect. Adding a tube reservoir made it that much simpler.


----------



## tehpud

Hey guys,

I wanted to share my results of some work. This is my very first build so be gentle! I am very proud/excited of it. I am used to an iMac so this is quite the change in many pleasant ways over negative. Anyways, with the help of Bryan from Swiftech, I was able to determine compatibility and future flexibility for this build. Great guy, great company and love the help.

So here is the build (not going into too much detail on build but more focus on looks + H220-X:


Enthoo Luxe Black
Maximus Hero VII
Core i7 4970k
G.Skill Trident 16GB @2400
Samsung Evo 840 250GB
WD 1TB Black Caviar
GTX 770 OC MSI
H220-X
Additional Fans

The H220-X was extremely easy to install. Instructions could probably use a little more detail or words at least. Being a nooby builder, it would have helped me, but most of you seasoned ones probably could have done it without. Either way, it took me about 30 - 45 minutes to install it. Unfortunately, it was the last piece to the build that arrived and I was too impatient. So I had to take some of the rig apart to get it in.

Plenty of space above the RAM with the heatsinks. I was concerned about this initially. The H220-X wouldn't fit flush with the top fan. Not too bothered buy it. At first I couldn't get the waterblock to stay lit so I didn't care about the blue plate. However, now that it does stay on (swapped the power away from hub, thanks Bryan), I may switch it. Depends if my OCD gets to me.


----------



## Kelvarr

So I meandered back to my computer office this morning, and noticed that my PC was not on. "That's weird" I thought, as I knew it was on last night when I went to bed. So I hit the power button, and was greeted with a "CPU Fan Error" warning during POST. A quick confirmation showed me that all the fans were working, but the pump was strangely quiet.

Great.

Initially, I was going to immediately order a replacement, as this is my main rig. Real Life got in the way, and I haven't done anything yet. But also, due to Real Life, I was able to read a bit more about this issue, and the possible troubleshooting.

First, the pump was connected to the splitter, which was connected to the CPU Fan header on my Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3. I already tried connecting the pump directly to the CPU Fan header, and there was nothing. However, after having time to look at the manual of my motherboard, I can't recall whether I used "CPU_FAN" or "CPU_FAN_OPT". Can someone clarify for me which I should use for the pump?

My current plan is to take my spare PSU, short green and black. Unplug my main PSU in the case, and plug the spare in. Then, I will connect the pump to the spare PSU and feel the pump. Is there anything else I should do/try?

I do plan to call Swiftech about this, but I cannot find any paperwork on the unit, so I don't know if they'll even do anything for me.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelvarr*
> 
> So I meandered back to my computer office this morning, and noticed that my PC was not on. "That's weird" I thought, as I knew it was on last night when I went to bed. So I hit the power button, and was greeted with a "CPU Fan Error" warning during POST. A quick confirmation showed me that all the fans were working, but the pump was strangely quiet.
> 
> Great.
> 
> Initially, I was going to immediately order a replacement, as this is my main rig. Real Life got in the way, and I haven't done anything yet. But also, due to Real Life, I was able to read a bit more about this issue, and the possible troubleshooting.
> 
> First, the pump was connected to the splitter, which was connected to the CPU Fan header on my Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen 3. I already tried connecting the pump directly to the CPU Fan header, and there was nothing. However, after having time to look at the manual of my motherboard, I can't recall whether I used "CPU_FAN" or "CPU_FAN_OPT". Can someone clarify for me which I should use for the pump?
> 
> My current plan is to take my spare PSU, short green and black. Unplug my main PSU in the case, and plug the spare in. Then, I will connect the pump to the spare PSU and feel the pump. Is there anything else I should do/try?
> 
> I do plan to call Swiftech about this, but I cannot find any paperwork on the unit, so I don't know if they'll even do anything for me.


Just stating the obvious here - but did you check the header with a PWM fan to make sure the header is functioning? I have lost fan headers on ASUS boards a couple of times, once in exactly the same scenario you are describing. Obviously it is much easier to diagnose with an air cooler, unfortunately.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Darn double post


----------



## Dudewitbow

You want it on cpu fan. If the pump was in anyway controllable while connected TV the splitter means it was being controlled by pwm. If so pump either died or its extremely clogged up.

@above regardless if the header was functioning or not, the pump would be at full speed due to the splitter, hence his fans were still spinning


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NasaGT*
> 
> @Bram
> 
> Sorry Bram,
> 
> I don't want to annoy you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but yesterday you told me:
> Did you got any results?


According to our master distributor in Europe they are expecting the rest of the products to arrive some time in September. I'll know more in the next week or so.


----------



## Cyberpunk71

Hey Guys,

Just an update for you, had a reply from BACATA, Swiftech's European Distributer and they have told me to keep the Faulty H320 as they are sending me out a new one!!

Fair play that's top quality service, good to know should you develop a fault the support is Stellar!


----------



## delpy8

Guys if I could upgrade the swiftech h320 radiator to a 420mm radiator which would be best? One with a fillort etc


----------



## BangBangPlay

Any other comment from Swiftech (or members familiar with the process) on bleeding the H220X before I start to write my review? Although I didn't bleed it using the bleed screw, I want to add something about it in the review. So far I have only seen that it is "easier than most custom loops".


----------



## kevindd992002

@BramSLI1

Can you track the shipment to the Philippines?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> Can you track the shipment to the Philippines?


What shipment to the Philippines?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What shipment to the Philippines?


Sorry, I meant the H220-X that are on their way to John.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sorry, I meant the H220-X that are on their way to John.


I don't have the means to track it from here because they're not being shipped from here. The last time I checked though I was informed that they should be arriving in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## BangBangPlay

A few pics of my converted 5.25 cage into HD storage with the H220X;



This one is a bit dark, but the lower 3.5 in HD barely fits beneath the H220X res...


The upper 2.5 drive had to be offset to the right for the cables. I am eventually planning on adding my SSD to the top of the pile, but I have to do some SATA cable management first.


----------



## jchambers2586

will the H220 top fit on the MCP50X bottom. Thinking about giving my setup more flow.


----------



## NIK1

My H220 has been flawless but today I noticed something different. My pump speed on my pc used to be 1200 min and 3000 max.Today I noticed it has 1400 as min rpm.It will not go lower like before at 1200.Does anyone know what could of caused this change. My mb is a Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I use Asus Ai Suite 2 to control the fans.1400 is ok though and I only cool the cpu, I5 3570k.Just wondering why now it will not go back down to 1200 rpm.I also uninstalled the asus software and reinstalled and the same thing 1400 min cpu pump speed. I am stumped. Any ideas...


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H220 has been flawless but today I noticed something different. My pump speed on my pc used to be 1200 min and 3000 max.Today I noticed it has 1400 as min rpm.It will not go lower like before at 1200.Does anyone know what could of caused this change. My mb is a Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I use Asus Ai Suite 2 to control the fans.1400 is ok though and I only cool the cpu, I5 3570k.Just wondering why now it will not go back down to 1200 rpm.I also uninstalled the asus software and reinstalled and the same thing 1400 min cpu pump speed. I am stumped. Any ideas...


try rescanning the pump with ai suite 2. the suite manually adds increments and keeps store of the rpms at each % tier seperate from the motherboards natural levels. The values could have just magically shifted.


----------



## NIK1

I did a auto tune the fans and now it still shows 1400 min rpm pump speed. I have done this auto tune many times before with the most recent 3 weeks ago when installing windows. Yesterday and this morning it had 1200. My other win 7 drive also shows now 1400 as a min pump speed. I have 2 I can boot to. Cant figure out what has made it 1400 now. Even a clean install of the asus ai suite does not fix it.No glitches, or blue screen crashes either. Would there be anything else that would raise the min rpm speed up by 200 rpm.On a clean install of the ai suite it shows now 1400 as min pump speed, before it showed 1200 but the level bar for the speed stayed at 1400.I will keep tinkering and if anybody has more things to check I will do so in the morn.You can always say more speed is better than no speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I did a auto tune the fans and now it still shows 1400 min rpm pump speed. I have done this auto tune many times before with the most recent 3 weeks ago when installing windows. Yesterday and this morning it had 1200. My other win 7 drive also shows now 1400 as a min pump speed. I have 2 I can boot to. Cant figure out what has made it 1400 now. Even a clean install of the asus ai suite does not fix it.No glitches, or blue screen crashes either. Would there be anything else that would raise the min rpm speed up by 200 rpm.On a clean install of the ai suite it shows now 1400 as min pump speed, before it showed 1200 but the level bar for the speed stayed at 1400.I will keep tinkering and if anybody has more things to check I will do so in the morn.You can always say more speed is better than no speed.


This isn't an odd occurrence with Sabertooths, unfortunately, and is likely the board's mishap, not the pump's. The Z77 Saber has well documented header issues, I had to RMA two myself with header problems. I had exactly the same issue with one of the Z77, and am now having it with the Z97 Sabertooth. Thermal Radar changes the low speed limit on one or two of my fans every once in a while, and I have to re-run the fan tuning. Sometimes I have to run it 5-6 times before it gets everything right again. Try running it a few more times to see if it resets to 1200. Or simply leave it with the 1200 rpm - Brian would have to confirm, but I believe somewhere in this thread there is talk of the pump having less risk of an issue if it runs at slightly higher speeds.


----------



## ZeDestructor

I'd just leave it slightly higher, as long as it's not majorly audible.

(mind you, I do have a 48-port switch sitting behind me, so my definition of "quiet" is louder than most...)


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for all the info. After the pc has been off all night I booted up checked ai suite and it showed the pump was at 1200 rpm.Did a rescan of the fans and now low and behold it shows 1200 not 1400 as min pump rpm setting. I will monitor it today to see if anything changes again.


----------



## NIK1

Forgot to mention is speed fan a better program to control fan/pump speeds compared to the asus suite. I have had the suite sometime pop up errors saying it has stopped working, usually when testing a overclock with prime or Intel burn test.When this happens explorer exe locks up and the computer has to be rebooted manually.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

So I got a new cpu (4790k) and motherboard (Asus Z97-AR) yesterday and went to install my H220. The bracket that goes onto the back of the motherboard, one of the threaded inserts that go through the motherboard holes is poking through a little bit while all the others are flush. Now I know this is gonna cause the block to be uneven resulting in higher temps. Are all of the threaded inserts suppose to be poking through or flush. I think I remember them poking through on my previous motherboard.


----------



## cennis

are the swivel 90s on the *pump and radiator* removable (G1/4)?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> are the swivel 90s on the *pump and radiator* removable (G1/4)?


For which unit? The H220X? If you mena the H220X, the swivel barb on the radiator is removable with a G1/4" port underneath, but the pump fitting is not G1/4". With the barb removed, it is an O ring seal with 2 screws. Swiftech will have a G1/4" fitting available shortly that will bolt onto this fitting similar to the G1/4" fittings on the Apogee Drive 2.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> So I got a new cpu (4790k) and motherboard (Asus Z97-AR) yesterday and went to install my H220. The bracket that goes onto the back of the motherboard, one of the threaded inserts that go through the motherboard holes is poking through a little bit while all the others are flush. Now I know this is gonna cause the block to be uneven resulting in higher temps. Are all of the threaded inserts suppose to be poking through or flush. I think I remember them poking through on my previous motherboard.


Poking Through


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> For which unit? The H220X? If you mena the H220X, the swivel barb on the radiator is removable with a G1/4" port underneath, but the pump fitting is not G1/4". With the barb removed, it is an O ring seal with 2 screws. Swiftech will have a G1/4" fitting available shortly that will bolt onto this fitting similar to the G1/4" fittings on the Apogee Drive 2.


thanks, thats what i needed


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Poking Through


Thanks, the holes on my motherboard are a little small. Gonna have to force them through.


----------



## Syceo

Hi guys, a quick one, can I add a 360 rad to this on a loop im planning with the H220X,

Specs:

i74770k @ 4.4
R9295x2

Fans
Front 3x NFP12
R9 Rad NFF12 industrial @ 2000
H100i NFF12 PMW focus flow
2x crucial 512GB
1x Scandisk 120GB
1x WD green 1TB
Scythe fan controller

Im going for performance and not looks , any help would be greatly appreciated , thanks in advance.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> ... motherboard, *one of the threaded inserts that go through the motherboard holes is poking through a little bit while all the others are flush. Now I know this is gonna cause the block to be uneven resulting in higher temps.* Are all...


H0ly Guacamole! I never thought about this as an issue to watch out for!

Anybody have a recommendation on a bubble or laser level to do this properly? I am looking on Amazon but they all seem too big - I guess using one of those small camera bubble levels maybe does the trick?

ACQ


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> H0ly Guacamole! I never thought about this as an issue to watch out for!
> 
> Anybody have a recommendation on a bubble or laser level to do this properly? I am looking on Amazon but they all seem too big - I guess using one of those small camera bubble levels maybe does the trick?
> 
> ACQ


Right now I'm running like this because I don't have time at the moment to fix it. Temps are idling a little high at 34c-39c. When playing games it's anywhere from mid 50's to low 60's. I am OC'd to 4.6 @ 1.225v. Temps are definitely manageable but I know they can get lower.

EDIT: The washers on the threaded inserts should make it so you don't have to worry about each of them being level. It's just my motherboard holes are small for some reason and it's really hard to push them through.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

As a test
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Right now I'm running like this because I don't have time at the moment to fix it. Temps are idling a little high at 34c-39c. When playing games it's anywhere from mid 50's to low 60's. I am OC'd to 4.6 @ 1.225v. Temps are definitely manageable but I know they can get lower.
> 
> EDIT: The washers on the threaded inserts should make it so you don't have to worry about each of them being level. It's just my motherboard holes are small for some reason and it's really hard to push them through.


FWIW - have you tried shimming the bottom of the case in a manner that will adjust for any slight tilt in the motherboard and see if the temps improve?

It's a workaround and not a fix - but just until you have time to do something permanent and also as proof that you're actually on to a cause for the temp rise?

ACQ


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Ah, just thought of a possible problem with ^ this ^ idea. You would probably just move the problem to another area - reservoir, pump, etc.,

Sorry dude - back to confusing myself.

ACQ


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> As a test
> FWIW - have you tried shimming the bottom of the case in a manner that will adjust for any slight tilt in the motherboard and see if the temps improve?
> 
> It's a workaround and not a fix - but just until you have time to do something permanent and also as proof that you're actually on to a cause for the temp rise?
> 
> ACQ


What would that have to do with the block not being evenly seated on the cpu? My issue is the block isn't making proper even contact with the cpu.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I did a auto tune the fans and now it still shows 1400 min rpm pump speed. I have done this auto tune many times before with the most recent 3 weeks ago when installing windows. Yesterday and this morning it had 1200. My other win 7 drive also shows now 1400 as a min pump speed. I have 2 I can boot to. Cant figure out what has made it 1400 now. Even a clean install of the asus ai suite does not fix it.No glitches, or blue screen crashes either. Would there be anything else that would raise the min rpm speed up by 200 rpm.On a clean install of the ai suite it shows now 1400 as min pump speed, before it showed 1200 but the level bar for the speed stayed at 1400.I will keep tinkering and if anybody has more things to check I will do so in the morn.You can always say more speed is better than no speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My H220 has been flawless but today I noticed something different. My pump speed on my pc used to be 1200 min and 3000 max.Today I noticed it has 1400 as min rpm.It will not go lower like before at 1200.Does anyone know what could of caused this change. My mb is a Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I use Asus Ai Suite 2 to control the fans.1400 is ok though and I only cool the cpu, I5 3570k.Just wondering why now it will not go back down to 1200 rpm.I also uninstalled the asus software and reinstalled and the same thing 1400 min cpu pump speed. I am stumped. Any ideas...


I have had my pc on now for 5 hrs and now the min cpu pump speed will now go under 1500 rpm.I used to always run it at 1250-1350.What could of changed its min pump speed to a higher value. It seems to climb higher the longer its on,and if its been off a while and cooled down it runs at 1250 min rpm setting.


----------



## LostVirtue

I've been looking online for some confirmation but unable to find any.

Will a H220x fit in a Corsair 250D? With removing the drive cage at the top (not in photo), I do not know if the res + ports/tubing would clear the opening in front of the motherboard tray or not.

(photo courtesy of Anandtech)


----------



## jam71

Hi all, I bought the Swiftech H220 from a well-known e-shop online, the item is used but in excellent condition just inside the box there is no PWM 8 Way Splitter, I contacted them and unfortunately not have the missing piece to me but I'm ready to restuituirmi the money spent or reimburse me for any piece in case I could find somewhere parte.Volevo ask if it was possible to recover this piece that is almost essential, I had in mind to expand the Swiftech H220 putting another radiator to liquidate the vga and I would not return it back, then now is not more 'as before, if someone could do something daughters would be grateful.


----------



## Dry Bonez

I am so tired of reading how people get low temps,i cant seem to get those temps. im officially blaming my H220-X.i have multiple reasons as to why i blame it and i wanna know if i can RMA,exchange or something...i have read EVERYWHERE,i have been doing nothing but research and testing for the past week,havent played a game or anything due to this. so lets get started
1: I have it mounted properly...EVERYTHING
2:Have tried 3 different thermal paste,such as stock,the noctua,and currently im using Arctic MX 4 which is the best thus far.
3:i been doing research on people using prime,aida,other cpu benching and from what i understand,all go to about 70 or below.heck,even a H100-105 do better than what im getting.
look at this pic from right now


im sorry,but those temps are NOT acceptable,considering from what ive been seeing from others.
and last but not least,i will post a pic of my actual waterblock,it has a weird texture that im suspecting is the culprit from me achieving the temps i need.
Thanks for reading


----------



## Dry Bonez

Btw,the WB is cleaned.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Btw,the WB is cleaned.


What did you clean it with..most people use 90% or above alcohol or denatured alcohol because they leave no residue... that looks like its water spotted or etched even... could also be left over paste looks like you went crazy with it a bit since its in all the screw holes etc...hard to tell it most definately shouldnt look like that...


----------



## fleetfeather

Well that block looks anything but clean to me, but if you say so.









As for the temps, it's clear as day to me that your 4690k suffers from bad thermal properties due worse-than-usual application of IHS glue underneath the IHS by intel. The only way you'll resolve it is via delid.

(If there's >10C difference between the individual cores when at full load at stock voltage using the stock HSF, intel will approve a RMA. If not, your options are delidding or putting up with it.)


----------



## M3TAl

Ya that's a really bad 4670K there, major variance between core temps. I would try to RMA that CPU.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Well that block looks anything but clean to me, but if you say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the temps, it's clear as day to me that your 4690k suffers from bad thermal properties due worse-than-usual application of IHS glue underneath the IHS by intel. The only way you'll resolve it is via delid.
> 
> (If there's >10C difference between the individual cores when at full load at stock voltage using the stock HSF, intel will approve a RMA. If not, your options are delidding or putting up with it.)


+1 to both that looks stained not damaged


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I am so tired of reading how people get low temps,i cant seem to get those temps. im officially blaming my H220-X.i have multiple reasons as to why i blame it and i wanna know if i can RMA,exchange or something...i have read EVERYWHERE,i have been doing nothing but research and testing for the past week,havent played a game or anything due to this. so lets get started
> 
> 3:i been doing research on people using prime,aida,other cpu benching and from what i understand,all go to about 70 or below.heck,even a H100-105 do better than what im getting.
> im sorry,but those temps are NOT acceptable,considering from what ive been seeing from others.


That is simply not true about 70C and below. Prime blend has my CPU hit 78C during the more stressful data sets. Sure it starts off around 65C, but after 15 mins the temps can creep into the high 70s on me. In all your screenshots you never show what test in Prime you are using. In order to compare temps you need to use the same settings as the people you compare to. I dug up some old screenshots from the Haswell Overclocking Guide Thread so you can compare temps with my then H100i cooler while running standard stress tests (for long periods of time);

This is IBT 4.7 @1.281V Extreme 20 passes; Highest core 96C. Larger View

This is IBT 4.6 @1.223V Extreme 20 passes; Highest core 87C. Notice the slight difference in voltage changes the overall temp 10C in these tests, not the cooler. Larger View

9 hour OCCT run 4.7 @1.281V using Large Data Sets; Highest core 81C. Larger View

5 hour Prime 95 run 4.6 @1.223V Blend (large and small data sets); Highest core 85C. Larger View


So every test is different, and your voltage also plays an important role in temps too. All of these were taken using my old H100i, which is supposed to be slightly less efficient than the H220X. I have done some minor stressing recently and have found this to be true.The H220X can get 78C (vs 85C) using the same OC and settings in the last Prime test pictured. But keep in mind I have a custom loop with an extra rad too, so that throws it in favor of the H220X a bit too. I just wanted to give you something to compare to around your voltage so you have a better concept of what temps you should expect. Also having a high ambient only raises your temps higher. Most of these pictured above likely had an ambient of around 21C. Hope this helps.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> In order to compare temps you need to use the same settings as the people you compare to.


And the ambient temp. The ambient temp is critical. There's no point in comparing temps if ambient is unknown. If Person A has a 20C ambient and Person B has a 30C ambient then a comparison can only be made knowing there's a 10C difference in ambient. If that's not known then a comparison is almost useless.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> And the ambient temp. The ambient temp is critical. There's no point in comparing temps if ambient is unknown. If Person A has a 20C ambient and Person B has a 30C ambient then a comparison can only be made knowing there's a 10C difference in ambient. If that's not known then a comparison is almost useless.


I agree, and I included my ambient at the end of the post. I also posted about that exact topic a few pages back, so he is aware. I keep my computer in a climate controlled room that stays at 21C basically all year, give or take a few degrees maybe. I just wanted to show him that temps under 70C are not the norm with all stress tests.


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hi all, I bought the Swiftech H220 from a well-known e-shop online, the item is used but in excellent condition just inside the box there is no PWM 8 Way Splitter, I contacted them and unfortunately not have the missing piece to me but I'm ready to restuituirmi the money spent or reimburse me for any piece in case I could find somewhere parte.Volevo ask if it was possible to recover this piece that is almost essential, I had in mind to expand the Swiftech H220 putting another radiator to liquidate the vga and I would not return it back, then now is not more 'as before, if someone could do something daughters would be grateful.


Bram maybe I can 'help.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Bram maybe I can 'help.


So what wecells could understand of yourcells problem description, is that youcells bought used H220 cooler and it didn't have the 8-way splitter in the packet?

If so, then maybe wecells can help youcells.

Wecells have the original H220 molex splitter now unused, since wecells have now 2 sata splitters on ourcells machine.

The original H220 molex splitter is like new, and has all the screws and mounting tape untouched.

Just PM uscells, and wecells can deliver it for youcells.


----------



## michael-ocn

wecells, uscells, themcells, ourcells, youcells, mecells, hecells, shecells, seashells, thoucells ,***cells

why? (no response required, just sayin)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> So what wecells could understand of yourcells problem description, is that youcells bought used H220 cooler and it didn't have the 8-way splitter in the packet?
> 
> If so, then maybe wecells can help youcells.
> 
> Wecells have the original H220 molex splitter now unused, since wecells have now 2 sata splitters on ourcells machine.
> 
> The original H220 molex splitter is like new, and has all the screws and mounting tape untouched.
> 
> Just PM uscells, and wecells can deliver it for youcells.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> What did you clean it with..most people use 90% or above alcohol or denatured alcohol because they leave no residue... that looks like its water spotted or etched even... could also be left over paste looks like you went crazy with it a bit since its in all the screw holes etc...hard to tell it most definately shouldnt look like that...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Well that block looks anything but clean to me, but if you say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the temps, it's clear as day to me that your 4690k suffers from bad thermal properties due worse-than-usual application of IHS glue underneath the IHS by intel. The only way you'll resolve it is via delid.
> 
> (If there's >10C difference between the individual cores when at full load at stock voltage using the stock HSF, intel will approve a RMA. If not, your options are delidding or putting up with it.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya that's a really bad 4670K there, major variance between core temps. I would try to RMA that CPU.


Im actually thinking about delidding to be honest. this "chip" has me sooooooooooooooo freaking pissed off that i wanna just take it out and throw it,i wanna get maybe a 4790k or just straight up,delid this stupid thing.Now speaking of delidding,since my cpu takes 1.276-1.280 to get 4.5 stable,will i be able to get 4.5 at lower voltage too? or is delidding strictly only to get lower temps?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Im actually thinking about delidding to be honest. this "chip" has me sooooooooooooooo freaking pissed off that i wanna just take it out and throw it,i wanna get maybe a 4790k or just straight up,delid this stupid thing.Now speaking of delidding,since my cpu takes 1.276-1.280 to get 4.5 stable,will i be able to get 4.5 at lower voltage too? or is delidding strictly only to get lower temps?


Um your chip isnt that bad, it takes 1.31 for my 4670k to be stable at 4.5.

Go look in the haswell overclock thread at the spreadsheet of results.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Im actually thinking about delidding to be honest. this "chip" has me sooooooooooooooo freaking pissed off that i wanna just take it out and throw it,i wanna get maybe a 4790k or just straight up,delid this stupid thing.Now speaking of delidding,since my cpu takes 1.276-1.280 to get 4.5 stable,will i be able to get 4.5 at lower voltage too? or is delidding strictly only to get lower temps?


There is a potential it will decrease the voltage slightly if its able to greatly reduce the temps on the cores, but I wouldn't expect a drastic change (higher than like .08v). The reason you delid is to have the ~18-20C drop in cores because of better contact with the IHS and DIE with improved thermal paste and much smaller gap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Um your chip isnt that bad, it takes 1.31 for my 4670k to be stable at 4.5.
> 
> Go look in the haswell overclock thread at the spreadsheet of results.


His chip has really inconsistent temps between cores, its a particularly bad IHS seating on the PCB.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> His chip has really inconsistent temps between cores, its a particularly bad IHS seating on the PCB.


Ahh, a delid sounds mandatory


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Honestly I would try to rma then if you wanna delid the new one make sure it doesn't suffer the same fate...if you are getting high temps on some cores you might have overheated others but just my opinion...also delidding after having that much issue mounting the h220x honestly sounds like a bad idea...I'd hate to see you end up with a non working chip and have to buy another


----------



## emsj86

Can a h220 handle a gpu and cpu fx 8350 at. 4.8 and gtx 780


----------



## LOKI23NY

Making some progress finally. Got my H220X refilled and bled. Slowly starting to piece my machine back together. I wanted to get the cooler installed so I could check temps and see if I was having any issues before going any further.

The install process was pretty straight forward. The only issue I ran into was that the hoses make it a little tricky to get the block secured. This is probably only due to the fact that I've only installed air coolers before and have never had hoses to deal with.

Not sure if you can see in the photo but I removed the fans from the rad and mounted it flush to the top of my case. I have the mesh cut out for the fan holes so I figured this shouldn't effect temps.

2500k oc'd to 4.4ghz @ 1.3 V. So far I'm idling around 36C and when running IntelBurn test my temps reach a max of 68C. Does that seem about right?

The 200mm rad in the front is for when I expand the loop to include the gpu, I'm actually waiting to upgrade my card before getting that all setup. I figured now was the best time to cut up the case and get it all test fitted.

I have a bunch of odds and ends that I need to get done still:

Wiring and of course wire management
Install 2nd 200mm front fan
Finish up with my case plastics
Will be making a new psu cover to replace the one I currently have. It's from my previous case so the dimensions are off.
Once I expand the loop to include the gpu, I plan on shortening the hoses (might change to blue).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> 
> 
> Making some progress finally. Got my H220X refilled and bled. Slowly starting to piece my machine back together. I wanted to get the cooler installed so I could check temps and see if I was having any issues before going any further.
> 
> The install process was pretty straight forward. The only issue I ran into was that the hoses make it a little tricky to get the block secured. This is probably only due to the fact that I've only installed air coolers before and have never had hoses to deal with.
> 
> Not sure if you can see in the photo but I removed the fans from the rad and mounted it flush to the top of my case. I have the mesh cut out for the fan holes so I figured this shouldn't effect temps.
> 
> 2500k oc'd to 4.4ghz @ 1.3 V. So far I'm idling around 36C and when running IntelBurn test my temps reach a max of 68C. Does that seem about right?
> 
> The 200mm rad in the front is for when I expand the loop to include the gpu, I'm actually waiting to upgrade my card before getting that all setup. I figured now was the best time to cut up the case and get it all test fitted.
> 
> I have a bunch of odds and ends that I need to get done still:
> 
> Wiring and of course wire management
> Install 2nd 200mm front fan
> Finish up with my case plastics
> Will be making a new psu cover to replace the one I currently have. It's from my previous case so the dimensions are off.
> Once I expand the loop to include the gpu, I plan on shortening the hoses (might change to blue).


I like the cutout on the bays you did it looks good...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can a h220 handle a gpu and cpu fx 8350 at. 4.8 and gtx 780


I'd say that depends entirely on the voltage for 4.8 GHz and what you use it for. From personal experience the temps start climbing drastically once you get past the 4.6-4.7 GHz range with more than 1.45V. However in any game I've ever played the CPU temps pale in comparison to a stress test, not even close. It might be okay for gaming. But if you were doing something that really stresses the CPU and GPU at the same time I have doubts about a 240mm rad handling a 4.8 GHz 8350 and GPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Bram maybe I can 'help.


PM me so that I can see what I can do to assist you with this.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I like the cutout on the bays you did it looks good...


Thanks. The first thing I had read about as far as the rad fitting in a 600T was that some modding was needed, I'm really happy with how it came out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> 2500k oc'd to 4.4ghz @ 1.3 V. So far I'm idling around 36C and when running IntelBurn test my temps reach a max of 68C. Does that seem about right?


I had forgotten to set my fan curve before this. After a real quick adjustment the same test was maxing out around 62C. I'll need to play around with it more to see how loud I'd like the fans to get while gaming. I think there is still some room for improvement once I get everything dialed in.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can a h220 handle a gpu and cpu fx 8350 at. 4.8 and gtx 780


The pump could handle the loop, but you'd need another rad (120mm at least, 240mm recommended). If you're going to add the rad you might as well add a reservoir to make bleeding and maintenance that much easier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'd say that depends entirely on the voltage for 4.8 GHz and what you use it for. From personal experience the temps start climbing drastically once you get past the 4.6-4.7 GHz range with more than 1.45V. However in any game I've ever played the CPU temps pale in comparison to a stress test, not even close. It might be okay for gaming. But if you were doing something that really stresses the CPU and GPU at the same time I have doubts about a 240mm rad handling a 4.8 GHz 8350 and GPU.


The real issue is stress testing a CPU appropriately when someone is setting their OC. If someone already has their OC set, then I suppose they could expand their loop without adding extra rads. As you pointed out running games isn't that taxing on CPU thermals. Running non synthetic benchmarks could cause issues though. From what I've seen, cooling doesn't help Haswell much at all. Most Haswell chips will hit a voltage wall before the cooling is overwhelmed.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> The pump could handle the loop, but you'd need another rad (120mm at least, 240mm recommended). If you're going to add the rad you might as well add a reservoir to make bleeding and maintenance that much easier.
> The real issue is stress testing a CPU appropriately when someone is setting their OC. If someone already has their OC set, then I suppose they could expand their loop without adding extra rads. As you pointed out running games isn't that taxing on CPU thermals. Running non synthetic benchmarks could cause issues though. From what I've seen, cooling doesn't help Haswell much at all. Most Haswell chips will hit a voltage wall before the cooling is overwhelmed.


Basically the other way around for Vishera chips. The cooling gets overwhelmed before hitting a clock wall, unless it's a dud chip. A top tier air or AIO cooler is required to even think about 4.8 GHz unless the chip is golden meaning the voltage required is significantly lower than the norm.


----------



## emsj86

Yeh my oc is allready set with just the glacer 240l on the cpu. I only game and some times rendering small clips to upload to YouTube but temps never rise past 50ish. I use 1.43 stable for my 4.8 and 4.6 overclocks. I think I might add a rad or bump up to a 360mm rad and sell the 240. Probably just get a 120 or 140 radiator. Any recommend coolant to use to replace what's in there now


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> The pump could handle the loop, but you'd need another rad (120mm at least, 240mm recommended). If you're going to add the rad you might as well add a reservoir to make bleeding and maintenance that much easier.


Does another reservoir make it much easier? Is it worth it?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yeh my oc is allready set with just the glacer 240l on the cpu. I only game and some times rendering small clips to upload to YouTube but temps never rise past 50ish. I use 1.43 stable for my 4.8 and 4.6 overclocks. I think I might add a rad or bump up to a 360mm rad and sell the 240. Probably just get a 120 or 140 radiator. Any recommend coolant to use to replace what's in there now


The extra rad would really help when using both the CPU and GPU together. I don't know what case you are using, or the space you have but another 240mm would provide good temps and allow you to run SLI in the future. I run two 770s and an OCed 4670k on the H220x and a 240mm rad and temps are very good. Actually they are better than I expected because I was told to add at least another 120mm of rad for that much heat. I didn't have the space in my 350D though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Does another reservoir make it much easier? Is it worth it?


It depends on what you do with your loop. If you drain it and expand then you'll have to maintain it. I found having the extra pump and res in my loop easier to fill and bleed the loop. Having the extra res makes bleeding the loop easier than using the small bleed screw on the H220X. You'll still have to fill it through the H220x side port, but it will provide another place for air to escape in your loop. I'd recommend a small res.


----------



## souldriver

So sorry if this was touched on again, i have trouble keeping up with how fast this thread moves but....

- Any update on confirming this will fit on the new intel x99 platforms?

-Any update on the potential of an h140x / h280x kit option without needing to purchase the h220x and changing rads?

Planning to build at the end of september if possible.

Thanks


----------



## VSG

Anything working on LGA 2011 will work on LGA 2011-3


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> So sorry if this was touched on again, i have trouble keeping up with how fast this thread moves but....
> 
> - Any update on confirming this will fit on the new intel x99 platforms?
> 
> -Any update on the potential of an h140x / h280x kit option without needing to purchase the h220x and changing rads?
> 
> Planning to build at the end of september if possible.
> 
> Thanks


A 2011 heat sink or water block will be compatible with X99. We're looking to release the other versions of this kit towards the end of September.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> It depends on what you do with your loop. If you drain it and expand then you'll have to maintain it. I found having the extra pump and res in my loop easier to fill and bleed the loop. Having the extra res makes bleeding the loop easier than using the small bleed screw on the H220X. You'll still have to fill it through the H220x side port, but it will provide another place for air to escape in your loop. I'd recommend a small res.


So how would I mount a res without adding an extra pump?

I could probably use this eh

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=24649


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> PM me so that I can see what I can do to assist you with this.


ok thank you!


----------



## LostVirtue

Will a H220-X fit in a Corsair 250D?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostVirtue*
> 
> Will a H220-X fit in a Corsair 250D?


By the looks of the interior layout of the 250D, the H220-X may interfere with the 140mm intake fan even when the obviously conflicting 5.25" bay is removed.

http://www.legitreviews.com/corsair-obsidian-250d-mini-itx-pc-chassis-review_134352/5

250D and H220-X are maybe not the best pals?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostVirtue*
> 
> Will a H220-X fit in a Corsair 250D?


I came in here to ask this exact question.

How thick is this thing on the "lower left-hand side" i.e. the corner closest to the one with the pump/res. And how far down does the thickness of the pump/res extend?

I would also be happy to err... validate... one in my system.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> It depends on what you do with your loop. If you drain it and expand then you'll have to maintain it. I found having the extra pump and res in my loop easier to fill and bleed the loop. Having the extra res makes bleeding the loop easier than using the small bleed screw on the H220X. You'll still have to fill it through the H220x side port, but it will provide another place for air to escape in your loop. I'd recommend a small res.
> 
> 
> 
> So how would I mount a res without adding an extra pump?
> 
> I could probably use this eh
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=24649
Click to expand...

pic a res without a pump, any res


----------



## MadGoat

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25206/ex-res-807/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_100_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM100P-BK.html?tl=g30c97s165

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c97/s165/list/p2/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Reservoirs-Internal_Reservoirs-Page2.html?o=title_az


----------



## Dudewitbow

pulling MUnitoon's normal H220 image, specifically top view on his build










the H220x will definitely have some issues if you plan on using the 5.25 drive bays. As for daughterboard clearance(if your motherboard has one) It's hard for me to judge if it would fit or not


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pic a res without a pump, any res


Could I mount it anywhere or does it have to be in a specific part


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Does another reservoir make it much easier? Is it worth it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> So how would I mount a res without adding an extra pump?
> 
> I could probably use this eh
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=24649


Yeah, something like that would work, or even an extension for the H220x fill port would also likely work well too. It is just another place for air to escape while it is being filled, and you won't have to play around with the fragile bleed screw.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pic a res without a pump, any res
> 
> 
> 
> Could I mount it anywhere or does it have to be in a specific part
Click to expand...

mounting is dependent of the res. some res go in to the bays some are mounted wherever you want


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone,im back. ok,so for these past 2 days,i have done nothing but test,test,and more testing. im confused at this point..for those who dont know,i been having really bad temp issues.so on friday i applied the Arctic MX 4 onto the cpu (4670k),booted up and got OK temps,still hitting high 70s and beyond.So on saturday when i woke up,i tried to test more and saw i was idling at 29c lowest, and when i would stress test,i would get mid 60s to very low 70s using AIDA 64,but every single time i use prime 95,no matter what i use,the temps go sky high.so anyway,i have some pics for you guys. what im trying to say is idk if its my cpu Or my h220 X. i really dont know. this is 2 weeks at it,and im just not satisfied.idc if i have a bad chip,i just wanna know if my H220 X is not bad. ill be at peace knowing its my cpu rather than my CPU cooler.i really love this thing and dont wanna have to return it and in reality it was fine. idk what else to do besides considering of delidding.but if i delid and still get high temps,im going to blame the H220 X.
this is stock with prime running.
this pic is running at 4.4 running prime and i actually got to 100c which i know 100% is not a good thing.

and here is when i run Aida 64,now bare in mind these tests are not even 5 mins in,so temps will indeed get higher as time goes by.

Note:i wanna say something too,can i RMA my intel 4670k? i have a reason too,ok,when im at stock settings,my idle would be mayyyyybe mid 30s very low 40s,so lets say my idle is average 39c,on my HWmonitor and real temp apps,i see the max temp and it jumps from 39c to about 56-59c...is that even normal? why cant the temps just stay in range?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone,im back. ok,so for these past 2 days,i have done nothing but test,test,and more testing. im confused at this point..for those who dont know,i been having really bad temp issues.so on friday i applied the Arctic MX 4 onto the cpu (4670k),booted up and got OK temps,still hitting high 70s and beyond.So on saturday when i woke up,i tried to test more and saw i was idling at 29c lowest, and when i would stress test,i would get mid 60s to very low 70s using AIDA 64,but every single time i use prime 95,no matter what i use,the temps go sky high.so anyway,i have some pics for you guys. what im trying to say is idk if its my cpu Or my h220 X. i really dont know. this is 2 weeks at it,and im just not satisfied.idc if i have a bad chip,i just wanna know if my H220 X is not bad. ill be at peace knowing its my cpu rather than my CPU cooler.i really love this thing and dont wanna have to return it and in reality it was fine. idk what else to do besides considering of delidding.but if i delid and still get high temps,im going to blame the H220 X.
> this is stock with prime running.
> this pic is running at 4.4 running prime and i actually got to 100c which i know 100% is not a good thing.
> 
> and here is when i run Aida 64,now bare in mind these tests are not even 5 mins in,so temps will indeed get higher as time goes by.
> 
> Note:i wanna say something too,can i RMA my intel 4670k? i have a reason too,ok,when im at stock settings,my idle would be mayyyyybe mid 30s very low 40s,so lets say my idle is average 39c,on my HWmonitor and real temp apps,i see the max temp and it jumps from 39c to about 56-59c...is that even normal? why cant the temps just stay in range?


All I can say is look at that VCORE in HW Monitor!!! Look at it... 1.728V! That's why you're hitting 100C!

You should never ever have a vcore even remotely that high unless you're benching on sub ambient cooling.

Edit: Or is HW Monitor not working correctly? That program in the background (black and blue one) is showing completely different voltages. Maybe that black and blue prog is only showing the VID?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> All I can say is look at that VCORE in HW Monitor!!! Look at it... 1.728V! That's why you're hitting 100C!
> 
> You should never ever have a vcore even remotely that high unless you're benching on sub ambient cooling.
> 
> Edit: Or is HW Monitor not working correctly? That program in the background (black and blue one) is showing completely different voltages. Maybe that black and blue prog is only showing the VID?


Not to sound mean but you are wrong my friend,that "vcore: that you are seeing is not the issue.trust me. my voltage for that speed is at 1.273.i cant get below that to get stable 4.5...anyway,the reason i know you are wrong about claiming its the vcore being at 1.728,is simple,at STOCK settings,that vcore is still the same.


----------



## M3TAl

What vcore does CPU-Z show or some other program during stress tests?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What vcore does CPU-Z show or some other program during stress tests?


i will check that right now for u sir.. thnx for the support too.you been helping me this whole time.i just wanna be at peace and get to the bottom of this.this is really draining my time and energy this back n forth testing and researching.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Not to sound mean but you are wrong my friend,that "vcore: that you are seeing is not the issue.trust me. my voltage for that speed is at 1.273.i cant get below that to get stable 4.5...anyway,the reason i know you are wrong about claiming its the vcore being at 1.728,is simple,at STOCK settings,that vcore is still the same.


I'm pretty sure the 1.7x Volts number is the input voltage, which is normally around 1.8.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the 1.7x Volts number is the input voltage, which is normally around 1.8.


yup!! thats exactly correct sir.


----------



## Mega Man

so... what do you have llc set to ?


----------



## Dry Bonez

wha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... what do you have llc set to ?


What is that exactly? because i did see it in the bios menu under "ai tweaker" btw,how can i take a snapshot in the bios menu so i can snapshot a pic of my settings in the bios so that you guys can help me out here


----------



## Dry Bonez

This doesnt seem right.for those who say its the voltage,i highly doubt it. even if it IS the voltage,its not that high at all AND on top of that,comparing to what others get with a h100 or some high end air stuff,this is unacceptable for the h220 x that i have installed. tell me what you guys think

highest temp i got is 88..so to reiterate,
4670k cooled by h220 X, @4.4 via 1.23v fans are all at max


----------



## Dry Bonez

one more pic for those interested..this is in absolute STOCK settings. running IBT on very high,getting temps no lower than 60 which is kinda sad considering the voltage i have AND the h220 X.



and this is stock settings at idle , SMH


----------



## TMatzelle60

Hey,

The swiftech H220x can i water cool a GTX 780 and a i5 4690K stock on the 240mm rad by itself or will i run into problems?


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> This doesnt seem right.for those who say its the voltage,i highly doubt it. even if it IS the voltage,its not that high at all AND on top of that,comparing to what others get with a h100 or some high end air stuff,this is unacceptable for the h220 x that i have installed. tell me what you guys think
> 
> highest temp i got is 88..so to reiterate,
> 4670k cooled by h220 X, @4.4 via 1.23v fans are all at max


Delid my friend. Delid. That's all you need


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> The swiftech H220x can i water cool a GTX 780 and a i5 4690K stock on the 240mm rad by itself or will i run into problems?


Should be fine, it wouldn't hurt to add a 120mm rad though.


----------



## mwsantos88256

My first wc loop using the h220x. Tubing could be cut shorter, I'll probably do that when I drain it for a cleaning in 6 months.

EDIT: Also I need to find a 90 degree barb for the fill port and put the h220x on the top to make my life easier.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> one more pic for those interested..this is in absolute STOCK settings. running IBT on very high,getting temps no lower than 60 which is kinda sad considering the voltage i have AND the h220 X.
> 
> 
> 
> and this is stock settings at idle , SMH


See below


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Edit : Just read this was stock, so yeah thats kinda bad


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> The swiftech H220x can i water cool a GTX 780 and a i5 4690K stock on the 240mm rad by itself or will i run into problems?


Yea if I were you I would add if your case it a360 rad or a 240mm in case you decide to add another gpu later. water cooling becomes addictive and pricey.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wha
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so... what do you have llc set to ?
> 
> 
> 
> What is that exactly? because i did see it in the bios menu under "ai tweaker" btw,how can i take a snapshot in the bios menu so i can snapshot a pic of my settings in the bios so that you guys can help me out here
Click to expand...

Load line calibration
it will add voltage if nessisarry

if set to auto it will be w.e. the manufacture wants

your voltage may very well be 1.7 i would suggest using med and asap.

if it is overvolting your system you could be killing your chip
the only way to know for sure is to use a DMM
with that in mind dump hwmoitor and get hwinfo far better program

see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> The swiftech H220x can i water cool a GTX 780 and a i5 4690K stock on the 240mm rad by itself or will i run into problems?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea if I were you I would add if your case it a360 rad or a 240mm in case you decide to add another gpu later. water cooling becomes addictive and pricey.
Click to expand...

too all new people, try using the little pencil in the bottom left corner it is the edit button

no more 3-5 posts make it into one !


----------



## shanker

I have a 220X installed in a Fractal Design Mini R2 and I ordered a Komodo water block for my reference R290.

Should I just add it to the loop and see if I like the temps? I'd like to mess around with overclocking the card as I'm on a 1440P monitor.

I have an Alphacool 120mm by 45mm radiator I can add to the loop. Should I add a reservoir as well if I put the rad in the loop?

I also have an H220 that I'm not using right now. I could just install that and a fat 360 and reservoir too.

What's my best option?


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> A 2011 heat sink or water block will be compatible with X99. We're looking to release the other versions of this kit towards the end of September.


I will keep my fingers crossed for the other kits being out sooner than later. Trying to build the last week of september/first few days of october as thats the only time i will have solid time off until the holidays.
I rather build it with say an h140x to start with, than to have to use stock for awhile then take the computer apart and reconfigure everything after its built and dealing with the taking off the thermal paste ca be a pain at times.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> I have a 220X installed in a Fractal Design Mini R2 and I ordered a Komodo water block for my reference R290.
> 
> Should I just add it to the loop and see if I like the temps? I'd like to mess around with overclocking the card as I'm on a 1440P monitor.
> 
> I have an Alphacool 120mm by 45mm radiator I can add to the loop. Should I add a reservoir as well if I put the rad in the loop?
> 
> I also have an H220 that I'm not using right now. I could just install that and a fat 360 and reservoir too.
> 
> What's my best option?


I had suggested that some members add an extra reservoir if expanding, but it really depends on your case setup. Adding an in line reservoir will give your loop another spot for air to escape, a place to top off the loop after air escapes, but without an extra pump it won't give you another "dry fill" port. Unless it is somehow installed above the H220X like in a drive bay maybe, or it directly feeds the H220X's reservoir. Either way an extra reservoir will make bleeding and topping off the loop very easy vs using the H220X bleed screw and fill port while the unit is mounted in your case. It would just be more convenient IMO...


----------



## Dry Bonez

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Delid my friend. Delid. That's all you need


i am,im gonna just do that,im done with this.i already ordered my coolaboratory liquid pro,when it gets here,im delidding right away,i did my research and watched countless videos and i think im ready for my 1st ever delid
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*


exactly,i kno its bad for stock.trust me. but my whole entire point of this story is idk if its my cpu OR my swiftech h220 x. i have no type of way to know if its the cooler. yea i want low temps and i will delid,but i atleast wanna know if my h220 x is good and not a bad unit. thats all i want in my life right now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> see below
> too all new people, try using the little pencil in the bottom left corner it is the edit button
> 
> no more 3-5 posts make it into one !


sorry,didnt know i can add multiple quotes,wow,im dumb for not seeing "multiple" lol,i apologize. anyway,off topic real quick,what are the chances of the new gtx series(rumored 900 series atm) being capable of being cooled by the komodo NV LE by swiftech? i think it only supports gpu gtx titans,780,780ti


----------



## M3TAl

Well Dry Bonez seems your voltage is where it should be during load. It's hard to say if the problem is the CPU itself (bad TIM job between IHS and die maybe?) or the h220X. Really you need a 2nd cooler to compare with. If it's the chip itself then there is no way the stock intel cooler or even a midrange air cooler will handle the chip at stock considering the temps you're getting with the h220x.

If you try an air cooler and the temps are close to the h220x then it's likely the h220x. The h220x should definitely demolish any midrange or stock air cooler while beating a very high end air cooler by a few C or more.


----------



## LOKI23NY

What are you using to control your fans? I had been using a controller and when I installed the h220x I totally forgot that I needed to adjust the fan curve via the motherboard. My temps were also higher than I was expecting until I got the curve setup.
My 2500k was going up to 68, now maxes around 56-57.


----------



## Mega Man

i would not recommend delidding till you listen to people here who know of other chips on that socket, seemingly per intel ( paraphrasing people in this thread ) if you have a 20c temp difference per core then it is rma able, if you delid, it isnt ....

something to think about


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Few questions about the H220X.

Does this thing fit in a HAF 922?

Where can I get one that offers free shipping or a promo code. $160 including shipping is pretty steep. I can get a XSPC kit at my local microcenter for that. I'd much rather have the H220X due to its easy install and expansion options. I have been trying to get a price on performance-pcs but I can't log in to get shipping information. Seems their site is messed up because I even reset my password and it still won't let me log in. Anywhere else to buy?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Few questions about the H220X.
> 
> Does this thing fit in a HAF 922?
> 
> Where can I get one that offers free shipping or a promo code. $160 including shipping is pretty steep. I can get an NZXT kit at my local microcenter for that. I'd much rather have the H220X due to its easy install and expansion options. I have been trying to get a price on performance-pcs but I can't log in to get shipping information. Seems their site is messed up because I even reset my password and it still won't let me log in. Anywhere else to buy?


This might be able to fit in the 922 if you mounted the fans above the case. It will also depend on how tall the heat sinks are at the top of your motherboard and whether or not they extend beyond the top of the PCB. There really isn't much room at the top of that case to fit a radiator and fans.


----------



## aberrero

The code "OCN" used to be good for 10% off, but I don't think it is active anymore. Seems to only be in stock at their site, for the time being. I've been considering just getting the older model to avoid the clearance issues, although it isn't nearly as nice.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Might wait on it since this case is aging out anyhow. I'm looking towards a define R4. Is that going to be a tight fit as well?

Thanks for speedy replies.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Might wait on it since this case is aging out anyhow. I'm looking towards a define R4. Is that going to be a tight fit as well?
> 
> Thanks for speedy replies.


I think you should be able to get it to fit alright in that case. I think there are people here that use the R4 and these kits.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Might wait on it since this case is aging out anyhow. I'm looking towards a define R4. Is that going to be a tight fit as well?
> 
> Thanks for speedy replies.


it is tight but it fits


----------



## marklo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> one more pic for those interested..this is in absolute STOCK settings. running IBT on very high,getting temps no lower than 60 which is kinda sad considering the voltage i have AND the h220 X.
> 
> 
> 
> and this is stock settings at idle , SMH


I have the same problem like you.!

For example i reach the 83CDwith my i7 4790k without overclocking after 8 minutes with a prime95 ( the blend test) with a Vcore 1.186 Volt. And yes of course, the pump and the fans ontop of the radiator (2x noctuas nf-f12 pwm) were at 100% speed at the test...
There must be something wrong.
My ambient temp is 21-22 CD and my mainboard a asrock extreme6 shows me 30CD.

An other problem is the noise of my pump from my h220x. If the pump has more then 1800 rpm, it is very noisy.. Its like a rattle.


----------



## Arturo.Zise

Just opened my brand new H220 and discovered this. Is this normal, or are Swiftech really overstocked on TIM?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Just opened my brand new H220 and discovered this. Is this normal, or are Swiftech really overstocked on TIM?


Not normal, that is definitely an error. I'd be glad to receive all of those and keep em' but my conscience would be bothering me if I didn't at least contact them and let them know.


----------



## Arturo.Zise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Not normal, that is definitely an error. I'd be glad to receive all of those and keep em' but my conscience would be bothering me if I didn't at least contact them and let them know.


Well I'm in Australia so no point in me trying. Well thanks to Swiftech I'm now set for life with TIM lol.


----------



## thelude

Hey peeps. I think my H220 pump finally died. Its been working wonderfully for almost two years. Does anyone have any suggestions how to get it to kick back to life? I really need my PC for work. And dismantling my custom water cooling is probably gonna take to much work. For the last couple of weeks I keep on getting start up fan errors(cpu pump), but after I reset it works. And now its not working no more







. I tried a couple of different things such as hooking the pump into the CPU header, connecting the splitter to different molex cables, and knocking on the pump a couple of times. So far, nothing. Any suggestions how I can get it to work temporary would be great. Thanks again.

This is why I can't just pull the H220 out for different cpu cooler.


----------



## chartiet

When that was happening to me (same thing as you describe), not much could be done. Aside from taking the loop apart, flushing all the crap out, then refilling and keeping fingers crossed, you could keep trying to turn on and see if it starts up again, maybe shaking it.

If the pump has been giving you CPU fan errors, then it is/was just a matter of time before its dead and needs to be RMA'd for new impeller or a flush/refill. Ive had ~3 that have done this same thing, all RMA'd to have it happen again.

Its either crap stuck in the pump/impeller or bad PWM circuitry. More than likely plasticizer or gunk stuck in impeller or tiny air bubbles crapped the thing out.

H220's are awesome while they work.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Just opened my brand new H220 and discovered this. Is this normal, or are Swiftech really overstocked on TIM?


Considering these packages are hand assembled, that's a unbelievable error. But, like you say, you're set for TIM for awhile lol.


----------



## UnStableFPS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Just opened my brand new H220 and discovered this. Is this normal, or are Swiftech really overstocked on TIM?


lol Everything else was still in there?

I had something similar happen. I had to RMA my Lifeproof case and when I got the shipment back, they had put 2 cases in there instead of one. So, I had to call them it was killing me. They told me to just keep them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey peeps. I think my H220 pump finally died. Its been working wonderfully for almost two years. Does anyone have any suggestions how to get it to kick back to life? I really need my PC for work. And dismantling my custom water cooling is probably gonna take to much work. For the last couple of weeks I keep on getting start up fan errors(cpu pump), but after I reset it works. And now its not working no more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I tried a couple of different things such as hooking the pump into the CPU header, connecting the splitter to different molex cables, and knocking on the pump a couple of times. So far, nothing. Any suggestions how I can get it to work temporary would be great. Thanks again.
> 
> This is why I can't just pull the H220 out for different cpu cooler.


PM me about this so that I can assist you to figure out what can be done to resolve this issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marklo1*
> 
> I have the same problem like you.!
> 
> For example i reach the 83CDwith my i7 4790k without overclocking after 8 minutes with a prime95 ( the blend test) with a Vcore 1.186 Volt. And yes of course, the pump and the fans ontop of the radiator (2x noctuas nf-f12 pwm) were at 100% speed at the test...
> There must be something wrong.
> My ambient temp is 21-22 CD and my mainboard a asrock extreme6 shows me 30CD.
> 
> An other problem is the noise of my pump from my h220x. If the pump has more then 1800 rpm, it is very noisy.. Its like a rattle.


Please PM me about your noise issue. It's likely just some trapped air in the pump and I should be able to help you resolve this.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please PM me about your noise issue. It's likely just some trapped air in the pump and I should be able to help you resolve this.


wait a minute,when i put my fans at full speed,it DOES get loud.but i thought thats normal since almost every fan in the world is audible at max speed. are these suppose to run quiet at max?? im lost by this.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> Hey peeps. I think my H220 pump finally died. Its been working wonderfully for almost two years. Does anyone have any suggestions how to get it to kick back to life? I really need my PC for work. And dismantling my custom water cooling is probably gonna take to much work. For the last couple of weeks I keep on getting start up fan errors(cpu pump), but after I reset it works. And now its not working no more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I tried a couple of different things such as hooking the pump into the CPU header, connecting the splitter to different molex cables, and knocking on the pump a couple of times. So far, nothing. Any suggestions how I can get it to work temporary would be great. Thanks again.
> 
> This is why I can't just pull the H220 out for different cpu cooler.


what lighting is that underneath your ssd?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wait a minute,when i put my fans at full speed,it DOES get loud.but i thought thats normal since almost every fan in the world is audible at max speed. are these suppose to run quiet at max?? im lost by this.


That wasn't directed at you.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That wasn't directed at you.


oh i know,lol im just saying im experiencing that as well.,but i do have that issue right now as we speak,i turned off everything in my room to make sure if i can hear it and as i type this i have them at max speed and they are audible quite a bit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> oh i know,lol im just saying im experiencing that as well.,but i do have that issue right now as we speak,i turned off everything in my room to make sure if i can hear it and as i type this i have them at max speed and they are audible quite a bit.


He wasn't talking about his fans. Of course the fans are audible at full speed.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> He wasn't talking about his fans. Of course the fans are audible at full speed.


ohhh sorry,yea i just re read it,he was referring to the pump,i just put my head next to the pump and dont hear anything


----------



## thelude

@drybonez
Just led strip lighting.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Just opened my brand new H220 and discovered this. Is this normal, or are Swiftech really overstocked on TIM?


holy heck that is so awesome !


----------



## MicroAMD

I was planning on buying a XSPC D5 RX360 V3 KIT, but thinking of getting a H220-x with RX360 v3 and resovior. My question is, will the H220-X be enough to handle additional 360 Radiator (XSPC RX360 v3), a reservoir tube and GPU block?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroAMD*
> 
> I was planning on buying a XSPC D5 RX360 V3 KIT, but thinking of getting a H220-x with RX360 v3 and resovior. My question is, will the H220-X be enough to handle additional 360 Radiator (XSPC RX360 v3), a reservoir tube and GPU block?


----------



## emsj86

What coolant is everyone using when expanding there loops? Looking for a nice blue to match corsair fans and hyper x blue memory. Also what resivor do you guys recommend it would I need one. I have a phanteka enthoo pro and gtx 780 gpu block


----------



## Mega Man

colored tubes and distilled is what i would recommend

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/


----------



## emsj86

I want blue tubes but all the blue tubes are uv blue, that look purple. I'm won't be using uv light. I have two white led lights from icemodZ. Also when you say distillers water are you adding anything other than distilled water to the mix?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

N/m somehow I missed that on first page


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I want blue tubes but all the blue tubes are uv blue, that look purple. I'm won't be using uv light. I have two white led lights from icemodZ. Also when you say distillers water are you adding anything other than distilled water to the mix?


I have primochill advanced lrt in UV blue and it looks pretty blue


----------



## emsj86

Would you posting a pic. On the fence of getting that exact tuning or getting clear and blue coolant from mayhem or ek. Also with using swiftech h220 do you add a silver kill coil and if so where. Thanks again


----------



## Dudewitbow

I would use biocide over kill coil if you don't plan on using a separate reservoir. The original h220 had the luxury of being able to swap the fill cap with a monsoon silver bullet. I don't think the 220x has that luxury anymore. If you are using a normal h220, the silver bullet would be easier to work with. Just note that if you use silver, try not to have any nickel or nickel plated blocks in the loop, as it'll start to corrode faster than plain copper blocks.

On a side note. My loop is temporarily being unused at home(downsizing into new case soon), but if you need pictures of the tubing close up, i should be able to comply


----------



## emsj86

I actually have the glacer and really wanna make it match my build with blue tubing but I'm using led lights so uv blue comes off as purple ish. I was thinking just getting clear tubing and using ek blue or mayhem premix


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I actually have the glacer and really wanna make it match my build with blue tubing but I'm using led lights so uv blue comes off as purple ish. I was thinking just getting clear tubing and using ek blue or mayhem premix


You can do that. I've had lots of issues though with dyed coolant. I only have experience though with red dye, and I've heard that blue doesn't stain or is prone to break down the way red dyes are. Just a word of caution.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can do that. I've had lots of issues though with dyed coolant. I only have experience though with red dye, and I've heard that blue doesn't stain or is prone to break down the way red dyes are. Just a word of caution.


Would you recommend swiftech blue premix? Would I have to add anything to it. It is light blue and so our the corsair blue rings so that may work or close enough


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Would you recommend swiftech blue premix? Would I have to add anything to it. It is light blue and so our the corsair blue rings so that may work or close enough


I would, but we're having some issues sourcing this at the moment. We may have to actually discontinue it if we can't find another source because the manufacture has stopped making it.


----------



## Arturo.Zise

Just got my H220 installed and while it does run louder than my NH-D14, it dropped temps by 10c when running X264 encodes with Handbrake. So far so good.


----------



## delpy8

guys moved over to a x99 5820k and im having issues with the fan splitter on my h320. My fans wont spin on the splitter but tthe pump works.

Anyone had that issue?


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anything working on LGA 2011 will work on LGA 2011-3


No issues with compatibility 2011-3 is exact same fittings as 2011


----------



## UnStableFPS

Anybody used the Cooler master jetflo fans with h220x yet? Thought about testing out the difference unless someone has already beat me to it.


----------



## mwsantos88256

I have some lying around but haven't thrown them on. All I can say is avoid putting the jetflo fans on a splitter. I read from a couple places that the amount of power the fans use have burnt out splitters.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> guys moved over to a x99 5820k and im having issues with the fan splitter on my h320. My fans wont spin on the splitter but tthe pump works.
> 
> Anyone had that issue?


That's strange. Have you checked to make sure that the fans are installed properly on the splitter and what fans are you using?


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's strange. Have you checked to make sure that the fans are installed properly on the splitter and what fans are you using?


Hi I had recently changed my Helix ones to the pwm nb eloop noiseblockers bp-s 120mm
Not sure whats up as no fans not even the Helix ones will spin when connected to the hub


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi I had recently changed my Helix ones to the pwm nb eloop noiseblockers bp-s 120mm
> Not sure whats up as no fans not even the Helix ones will spin when connected to the hub


It sounds like the splitter has shorted out. It's just rather strange that the pump would still operate off of it though. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting the splitter replaced.


----------



## delpy8

I've emailed Bakata and I'm hopefully getting a replacement fan hub splitter sent out


----------



## We of Us

"Not sure whats up as no fans not even the Helix ones will spin when connected to the hub"

This crashed ourcells theory for PWM 0%.


----------



## We of Us

this message can be deleted.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It sounds like the splitter has shorted out. It's just rather strange that the pump would still operate off of it though. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting the splitter replaced.


thanks very much I've had an email back from Bakata so I think I'm sorted for a replacement hub


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I just replaced my Motherboard and case in my rig the h220x fits much better but connected to the included splitter the fans don't seem to be spinning as fast as they did before I have fan settings in bios set to turbo preset... pump is showing between 2500 and 3000.. I'm guessing I should try the fans connected to chassis header to narrow down the culprit.. on the plus side I got the two pesky bubbles out on the change over... one thing I think would really help with mounting would be a small metal c clip to hold fans in place while mounting thru chassis/fan into rad... that is a b to hold all three just right and screw them down... luckily my new case is awesome and I was able to unscrew top panel and mount then place it back


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I just replaced my Motherboard and case in my rig the h220x fits much better but connected to the included splitter the fans don't seem to be spinning as fast as they did before I have fan settings in bios set to turbo preset... pump is showing between 2500 and 3000.. I'm guessing I should try the fans connected to chassis header to narrow down the culprit.. on the plus side I got the two pesky bubbles out on the change over... one thing I think would really help with mounting would be a small metal c clip to hold fans in place while mounting thru chassis/fan into rad... that is a b to hold all three just right and screw them down... luckily my new case is awesome and I was able to unscrew top panel and mount then place it back


I haven't had that issue with mounting fans on radiators since I started using a little double sided tape to hold the fans in place. You leave enough of the tape sticking out so that you can pull it out from between the fan and the radiator once the screw starts to thread in.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I haven't had that issue with mounting fans on radiators since I started using a little double sided tape to hold the fans in place. You leave enough of the tape sticking out so that you can pull it out from between the fan and the radiator once the screw starts to thread in.


I thought about that but the foam double sided I had was too thick it would've had to stay there forever lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I also wanted to ask is the enclosed splitterb special in any way or could I have used the one my case came with? I used the included one just in case it was a warranty issue or w/e but thought I'd pose the question


----------



## emsj86

What is the size of the fill port. I wanna by a barb fitting for filling


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I also wanted to ask is the enclosed splitterb special in any way or could I have used the one my case came with? I used the included one just in case it was a warranty issue or w/e but thought I'd pose the question


Yes, it's special because it's a PWM splitter meant to be used with other PWM compliant devices. Most case controllers are voltage regulated and voltage regulation isn't recommended for PWM devices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is the size of the fill port. I wanna by a barb fitting for filling


The fill port uses a standard G 1/4 port, so you can use any G 1/4 water cooling fitting that you want.


----------



## emsj86

E
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks awesome! Well done.


what coolant and tubing is being used here I like the blue. I'm trying to find a good blue tubing and coolant combo


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazerac81*
> 
> I'm really happy with my expanded loop using the H220. Also, got some really nice Phobya RGB lights that can color shift to suit the mood. Knock on wood, but so far, my pump is quiet and not causing any issues.
> 
> Here are some pics of the expanded loop and the phobya lights. I am really happy with the setup. I think there are only a few things left to do to my rig, purchase a fully modular PSU, individually sleeve cables, add another GTX 670 down the line to the loop and hopefully I will be done with spending money on my rig for awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I'll be da*ned, if those new haswell processors and GTX700 series cards don't look nice...
> 
> 
> 
> Blistering Red
> 
> 
> 
> Bright White
> 
> 
> 
> UV glow
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair Cover On
> 
> 
> 
> The Hulk
> 
> 
> 
> 5.25" Double Bay Reservoir
> 
> Just wanted to share and show that you can really expand the loop on this baby. Great cooling performance and is more than powerful enough to run through a CPU and GPU block, 240mm Rad, 200mm Rad, a bunch of 45 and 90 degree fittings and a bay reservoir.
> 
> I will say that, adding the bay reservoir really, really helped me prime and fill the loop. Otherwise, it would have been a cluster to try to actually fill the whole loop up through the Swiftech Res/Rad fill port... especially since it is upside down in my case. So, if you plan on expanding, I would highly suggest figuring out how you are going to actually fill the loop before proceeding.
> 
> Cheers,
> John


What coolant and tubing is used here thank you


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it's special because it's a PWM splitter meant to be used with other PWM compliant devices. Most case controllers are voltage regulated and voltage regulation isn't recommended for PWM devices.


although the one that came with this case I believe is pwm splitter I'll definitely keep using the included one just in case it isn't thanks for the info...


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You can do that. I've had lots of issues though with dyed coolant. I only have experience though with red dye, and I've heard that blue doesn't stain or is prone to break down the way red dyes are. Just a word of caution.


Red dye in almost all the applications I've used them in, not just pc related, will always putter out first. The more sunlight they see the faster they will go. Look at vintage guitars for other examples. Many 50s les Paul's that were in display windows will have one side faded while the backs are usually still very red.


----------



## rojell

Hi guys I have been looking at the thread for the air 240. I know it is very new but I wanted to see if anyone thinks the h220x will work in it. I see geggeg is in both threads so maybe he has some info he can share on this. I think it will be ok if not expanded but would like to see if it could handle adding the video cooler.

anyway thanx in advance for the info


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rojell*
> 
> Hi guys I have been looking at the thread for the air 240. I know it is very new but I wanted to see if anyone thinks the h220x will work in it. I see geggeg is in both threads so maybe he has some info he can share on this. I think it will be ok if not expanded but would like to see if it could handle adding the video cooler.
> 
> anyway thanx in advance for the info


While I can borrow the Air 240 from a local friend, I don't have the H220x to confirm. Going by dimensions alone, you _should_ be ok if you place it in the front with the res/pump combo towards the top. Not too sure about the top yet.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> guys moved over to a x99 5820k and im having issues with the fan splitter on my h320. My fans wont spin on the splitter but tthe pump works.
> 
> Anyone had that issue?


Does your pump only have the PWM fan plug or does it also have a SATA power plug as some of the later ones do?


----------



## rojell

Cool thanks for the fast response. That case looks like it is going to be a great build for a small desk.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Does your pump only have the PWM fan plug or does it also have a SATA power plug as some of the later ones do?


Hi Phelan its only got the 4 pin pwm fan plug


----------



## shanker

Installed my Komodo for my R290 last night. With just the Swiftech H220X cooling the cpu/gpu it dropped the temps on the gpu by 30 degrees Celsius. The highest I got it during Heaven/Valley benchmarks was 64 degrees Celsius.

I ran the benchmarks at 1440P everything turned up. This is with an Asus reference R290 and a 4670K both at stock. If I had a bigger radiator I know the temps would drop more but I'll get a bigger case for that.

I do have an air bubble I cant get rid of between the CPU and radiator connector. No matter how I twist it and flip it the bubble wont budge but the temps seem to be fine. Any ideas?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> If I had a bigger radiator I know the temps would drop more but I'll get a bigger case for that.


Youcells can always drop the H220-x to the front, and install another 240mm radiator to the top position.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While I can borrow the Air 240 from a local friend, I don't have the H220x to confirm. Going by dimensions alone, you _should_ be ok if you place it in the front with the res/pump combo towards the top. Not too sure about the top yet.


Wouldn't the res be facing the wrong way, towards the back of the case? That is why I didn't really like the 240, next to nowhere to put multiple rads. Maybe that is where it's name comes from, that it relies on air cooling mostly. It is a nice design, but it has its limits.

You could mount it with the res/ fill port facing down, but he'd have to fill (and bleed) the loop before installation in the case. Either that or install another reservoir above the H220x and have it directly feed the res/rad inlet. I absolutely love the H220X, but it does have some limitations/drawbacks when being used as an AIO.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed my Komodo for my R290 last night. With just the Swiftech H220X cooling the cpu/gpu it dropped the temps on the gpu by 30 degrees Celsius. The highest I got it during Heaven/Valley benchmarks was 64 degrees Celsius.
> 
> I ran the benchmarks at 1440P everything turned up. This is with an Asus reference R290 and a 4670K both at stock. If I had a bigger radiator I know the temps would drop more but I'll get a bigger case for that.
> 
> I do have an air bubble I cant get rid of between the CPU and radiator connector. No matter how I twist it and flip it the bubble wont budge but the temps seem to be fine. Any ideas?


That's a nice drop over air but just FYI there are more gains to be had. Adding another 240mm radiator should keep you in the 45-55C range I would think. My friend has a 290 (currently stock clocks/volts) with full cover EK block and MCP50X. Also in the loop is OC'ed 8350 and mobo VRM all on 240mm ST30, RX240, and EK 240mm with fans 800-1000 RPM. His GPU temps are usually 45-52C with a high ~30-32C ambient.


----------



## aberrero

There is plenty of room in that case. You could use the exhaust fan to mount another radiator too.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Wouldn't the res be facing the wrong way, towards the back of the case? That is why I didn't really like the 240, next to nowhere to put multiple rads. Maybe that is where it's name comes from, that it relies on air cooling mostly. It is a nice design, but it has its limits.
> 
> You could mount it with the res/ fill port facing down, but he'd have to fill (and bleed) the loop before installation in the case. Either that or install another reservoir above the H220x and have it directly feed the res/rad inlet. I absolutely love the H220X, but it does have some limitations/drawbacks when being used as an AIO.


Right on all accounts, the dual chamber design is great once a certain size is crossed- like with the Air 540 and the double wide Caselabs Magnum cases. The Air 240's USP is size and air cooling even if you can fit in an AIO.

Funny thing is their ITX 380T that I have can fit in the H220x as long as it doesn't hit the RAM/daughterboards if applicable. I am fairly certain it will be ok in my case (build log in sig) so am contemplating it.


----------



## rojell

Cool thanks for the info bangbangplay and geggeg.







It looked like it would be a great little case but i guess not with the parts I have in mind.I will keep looking.


----------



## crastakippers

Guys,
could I ask a couple of questions:

1. Will the H220-x fit the fractal r4 case OK. If not does the H220 fit easily?

2. I think that NCIX is the only Canadian distributor of the H220-x is that correct?

3. NCIX does not have stock currently. Should I just order the h220 if I can find it. Or should I hold out?

thank you and appreciate your help.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Guys,
> could I ask a couple of questions:
> 
> 1. Will the H220-x fit the fractal r4 case OK. If not does the H220 fit easily?
> 
> 2. I think that NCIX is the only Canadian distributor of the H220-x is that correct?
> 
> 3. NCIX does not have stock currently. Should I just order the h220 if I can find it. Or should I hold out?
> 
> thank you and appreciate your help.


1 Yes, I have an r4 and it fits fine.

2 I think swiftech ships from cali to Canada also.

3. Wait for the h220x. It's better


----------



## crastakippers

Thank you for answering my questions. I will wait for the H220-X.


----------



## chartiet

FrozenCPU has some I for $140. Are they ruled out as you are in Canada? Just thought Id throw that out there. Sorry if its no help. Great kit.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Installed my Komodo for my R290 last night. With just the Swiftech H220X cooling the cpu/gpu it dropped the temps on the gpu by 30 degrees Celsius. The highest I got it during Heaven/Valley benchmarks was 64 degrees Celsius.
> 
> I ran the benchmarks at 1440P everything turned up. This is with an Asus reference R290 and a 4670K both at stock. If I had a bigger radiator I know the temps would drop more but I'll get a bigger case for that.
> 
> I do have an air bubble I cant get rid of between the CPU and radiator connector. No matter how I twist it and flip it the bubble wont budge but the temps seem to be fine. Any ideas?


Seeing this makes me wonder if my glacer 240l can handle my gtx 780 and fx 8350. Which oc to 4.8 never reaches past 50 but I would down clock to maybe 4.6 to have both on just the glacer. What are your thoughts?


----------



## M3TAl

Your CPU temps will increase and the 780 temps will still be much lower than air. Not sure how much the CPU temps will increase but there will definitely be one.


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> FrozenCPU has some I for $140. Are they ruled out as you are in Canada? Just thought Id throw that out there. Sorry if its no help. Great kit.


It is a help. Customs can sometimes take a while but I may just order from the US. Thanks.


----------



## bronzodiriace

Any news from Swiftech about the H220x on Italian market?


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,im back from being away from this thread for a few days. so anyway,my temps are still looking out of shape. and before anyone asks or says anything,im going to give the rundown. ATM im at stock with my 4670k on a Asus Z87 deluxe mobo with H220 X cooler.

that picture you just saw is STOCK,now keep in mind i am in a room where ambient is 70 degrees F(idk how to put that in C) i put the pc kind of close to the window ac and that is why its cool in here.so for those that will say my ambient is an oven,well im in a cool area now getting these temps.people have suggested delidding(which i am just waiting on my CLP tim to get here. but what i want everyone to understand where im coming from is simple..even when i do my delidding,yea i will get lower temps to "fix" it. what im ultimately trying to do as well is get low temps AND make sure 100% its not my H220X. my fear is even when i delid,i dont wanna have to delid and STILL have a bad unit. i understand the whole concept of a bad chip and haswell running hot and all that stuff,which is ok with me.i just wanna ultimately know if my H220 X isnt bad. i have applied TIM 4x now. i recently just used the spread method with no luck. im going with my instincts and say its my h220 X. ive installed it correctly,such as the backplate,the screws,the TIM, screwing it tightly and still no luck. i cant wait until i delid.but even then whether i delid or not,i need to know if i have a bad h220 X or not. please leave comments and suggestions and just anything please.i been trying 2 weeks or 3 weeks straight! 1 more thing,stock idle DOES matter,for anyone who wants to say it doesnt. i have been doing extensive reading,research,comparison,pictures,testing,videos,you name it and EVERYONE idles way better than me.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Shifted things into an Air 540. Constructive criticism welcomed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

That's a nice large drain port.... when I expand my loop I'm thinking on something similar but in the back of the case.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> 
> 
> Shifted things into an Air 540. Constructive criticism welcomed.


Is that a single H-220X driving two GPU blocks, the CPU block and the extra 240/280mm rad or do you have a second pump in the loop?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey everyone,im back from being away from this thread for a few days. so anyway,my temps are still looking out of shape. and before anyone asks or says anything,im going to give the rundown. ATM im at stock with my 4670k on a Asus Z87 deluxe mobo with H220 X cooler.
> .


So what exactly is your problem?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey everyone,im back from being away from this thread for a few days. so anyway,my temps are still looking out of shape. and before anyone asks or says anything,im going to give the rundown. ATM im at stock with my 4670k on a Asus Z87 deluxe mobo with H220 X cooler.
> 
> that picture you just saw is STOCK,now keep in mind i am in a room where ambient is 70 degrees F(idk how to put that in C) i put the pc kind of close to the window ac and that is why its cool in here.so for those that will say my ambient is an oven,well im in a cool area now getting these temps.people have suggested delidding(which i am just waiting on my CLP tim to get here. but what i want everyone to understand where im coming from is simple..even when i do my delidding,yea i will get lower temps to "fix" it. what im ultimately trying to do as well is get low temps AND make sure 100% its not my H220X. my fear is even when i delid,i dont wanna have to delid and STILL have a bad unit. i understand the whole concept of a bad chip and haswell running hot and all that stuff,which is ok with me.i just wanna ultimately know if my H220 X isnt bad. i have applied TIM 4x now. i recently just used the spread method with no luck. im going with my instincts and say its my h220 X. ive installed it correctly,such as the backplate,the screws,the TIM, screwing it tightly and still no luck. i cant wait until i delid.but even then whether i delid or not,i need to know if i have a bad h220 X or not. please leave comments and suggestions and just anything please.i been trying 2 weeks or 3 weeks straight! 1 more thing,stock idle DOES matter,for anyone who wants to say it doesnt. i have been doing extensive reading,research,comparison,pictures,testing,videos,you name it and EVERYONE idles way better than me.


yes, my suggestion is RMA the chip, as the cores can have as much as 20deg between them. but alas this has been said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey everyone,im back from being away from this thread for a few days. so anyway,my temps are still looking out of shape. and before anyone asks or says anything,im going to give the rundown. ATM im at stock with my 4670k on a Asus Z87 deluxe mobo with H220 X cooler.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> So what exactly is your problem?
Click to expand...

he thinks his temps are out of control as his air cooler " worked fine "


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, my suggestion is RMA the chip, as the cores can have as much as 20deg between them. but alas this has been said.
> he thinks his temps are out of control as his air cooler " worked fine "


His temps are fine....


----------



## We of Us

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 70 degrees F(idk how to put that in C)


70°F = 21,1°C


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Is that a single H-220X driving two GPU blocks, the CPU block and the extra 240/280mm rad or do you have a second pump in the loop?


Yes, all in a single loop.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Yes, all in a single loop.


Excellent.. means the eventual 480mm + 2 GPU coolers addition later on is cheaper than expected...


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Excellent.. means the eventual 480mm + 2 GPU coolers addition later on is cheaper than expected...


Unfortunately not for me. I have Asus DCII cards and only EK makes blocks for them. If I had reference cards I would've gotten the Komodo blocks with the LED strip to match the CPU block and probably saved a few dollars.


----------



## emsj86

look at the xspc razor only ek really beats them out and they have different leds if you want them


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> 
> 
> Shifted things into an Air 540. Constructive criticism welcomed.


what are the parts used to run/add the drain port I would like to do the same


----------



## Brennan Hodges

my h220 pump finally failed after months of grinding noises and poor performance. not sure what to do now other than spend lots of money to buy new parts.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brennan Hodges*
> 
> my h220 pump finally failed after months of grinding noises and poor performance. not sure what to do now other than spend lots of money to buy new parts.


I'm sorry to hear about that. Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting it replaced.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> what are the parts used to run/add the drain port I would like to do the same


I used an XSPC 4 way threaded fitting, plugged one side and put barbs in the other 3. I used a bitpower minivalve after the fitting for the drain. At the end of that set of tubing is a threaded female to female adapter with a barb in one end and a threaded plug on the other.

I thought about replacing the 4 way fitting with a primochill acrylic block t-fitting I found at microcenter to lighten weight on the tubing instead of the XSPC piece, but I'd have to find a male to male thread adapter to go along with it so the minivalve can be right on the end of it and not a short tube space away.

EDIT: A second male to male as well to set the fitting right next to the gpu bridge and eliminate that tiny set of tubing as well.


----------



## Gabkicks

Do these temps look normal for a stock 4790k with open case? my ambient is about 28C. If i oc to 4.7ghz @ 1.28v, one of the cores hits 100c 0_0 during intelburntest. @ 4.7ghz, the hottest core gets to 67c in 3dmark firestrike extreme.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Unfortunately not for me. I have Asus DCII cards and only EK makes blocks for them. If I had reference cards I would've gotten the Komodo blocks with the LED strip to match the CPU block and probably saved a few dollars.


I don't mind mixing blocks myself. all-copper/brass needed though.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> So what exactly is your problem?


my problem is im idling AND get high temps even at stock with this h220 X cooler.and my ultimate goal is to find out if my h220 X is not the bad link here.i would be at peace knowing if its my cpu. i dont really care if its my 4670k. i just dont want it to be the h220 x thats bad. here is stock settings AND with my bios resetted to default(latest version)

now this stock again but stress tested


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> His temps are fine....


nope.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> 70°F = 21,1°C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, my suggestion is RMA the chip, as the cores can have as much as 20deg between them. but alas this has been said.
> he thinks his temps are out of control as his air cooler " worked fine "


how can i go about RMA'ing the chip. i kind of DONT have the box







is that going to affect?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> Do these temps look normal for a stock 4790k with open case? my ambient is about 28C. If i oc to 4.7ghz @ 1.28v, one of the cores hits 100c 0_0 during intelburntest. @ 4.7ghz, the hottest core gets to 67c in 3dmark firestrike extreme.


thats WAYYY better than mine! are you using the H220 X? But again,thats way better than me,if i run IBT on very high ill get high 80s maybe low 90 with the H220X. and i also have an open case atm.


----------



## Dry Bonez

HUGE UPDATE: ok,so i have off today and tomorrow and i have been doing testing since i woke up. So what i did today was a bit different and not normal. So heres what i did folks. i actually downgraded to a lower bios version on my Asus z87 Deluxe. i also followed some guy on youtube by hitechlegion to get 4.7 on 1.275 volts and entered "cpu power phase" to level 8 in the bios,everything else was manual. so i got bsod with that attempt,then i downclocked to 4.6 with 1.275 volts and bsod again,so i bumped the vcore to 1.3 and solid now.i know its kind of alot BUT my issue before was high temps even on idle....now i bring to you temps i never got before and considering im on 1.3v i think its pretty damn good. i knew something was wrong before but noone wanted to listen to me and i kept trying and trying.

Is it possible that it was my bios version???? i was on the "LATEST" version too which is 2004 in case anyone wants to look it up.i am using Asus Z87 deluxe windows 8.1 pro 64bit. latest version is 2004... im scared of updating and go back to my problem. what do you guys think?
man im so happy right now i finally achieved 4.6!!!!!!! which i could never ever ever do before AND my temps are low EVEN ON STOCK! man im freakin happy


----------



## Dry Bonez

im sorry for posting again but i have to post 1 more time.this is too good to be true for me. im on 4.6 w/ 1.3volts and idling......just take a look

again,can a bios version do this? especially an "updated" version.

*atleast im at peace knowing its not my H220X. im a happy camper now. Still waiting on my CLP,dont know if i should delid now. give me thoughts and opinions.i will be here all day.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> im sorry for posting again but i have to post 1 more time.this is too good to be true for me. im on 4.6 w/ 1.3volts and idling......just take a look
> 
> again,can a bios version do this? especially an "updated" version.
> 
> *atleast im at peace knowing its not my H220X. im a happy camper now. Still waiting on my CLP,dont know if i should delid now. give me thoughts and opinions.i will be here all day.


What are your load temps? Can you post a screen shot of those as well? This very well could have been a BIOS related issue. If the BIOS over rode the voltage settings and pushed them higher in order to help maintain stability, that could have had an impact on your temperatures. I've seen issues like that in the past with Load Line Calibration being involved, but not to the extent that you were experiencing. It's quite strange.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What are your load temps? Can you post a screen shot of those as well? This very well could have been a BIOS related issue. If the BIOS over rode the voltage settings and pushed them higher in order to help maintain stability, that could have had an impact on your temperatures. I've seen issues like that in the past with Load Line Calibration being involved, but not to the extent that you were experiencing. It's quite strange.


what kind of load test should i do? this is my first time on 4.6 and would like to know what kind of load test i should do.....i actually just tried about 20 mins ago prime95 on this current setting but on worker #2,it stated "not running".what does that mean? that one of my cores stopped working? im running on 3 cores,lmao. nah but what kind should i do? AND what shall i do about my bios? im on a lower version and was using the very latest version. i forgot exactly which one i was on but i know its from 2013 and the new one enabled devil canyon compatability. Also,was the current bios revision holding my H220X back? its weird to me. but right this moment im idling at 28c-31c which never happened. im just scared of updating my bios.i rather stay on this version and not go through that torture i was going through and i know many people on here know what i was talking about.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Download Valley benchmark and run it on a loop for a half hour to an hour. Report back with your temps. That is as close to real world as you'll get for a universal stress test, heavy CPU and GPU loads. I have plenty of recent Valley runs I can compare with you using 4.6 @1.225V.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Download Valley benchmark and run it on a loop for a half hour to an hour. Report back with your temps. That is as close to real world as you'll get for a universal stress test, heavy CPU and GPU loads. I have plenty of recent Valley runs I can compare with you using 4.6 @1.225V.


im gonna do that right now and report back since im free the entire day today.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what kind of load test should i do? this is my first time on 4.6 and would like to know what kind of load test i should do.....i actually just tried about 20 mins ago prime95 on this current setting but on worker #2,it stated "not running".what does that mean? that one of my cores stopped working? im running on 3 cores,lmao. nah but what kind should i do? AND what shall i do about my bios? im on a lower version and was using the very latest version. i forgot exactly which one i was on but i know its from 2013 and the new one enabled devil canyon compatability. Also,was the current bios revision holding my H220X back? its weird to me. but right this moment im idling at 28c-31c which never happened. im just scared of updating my bios.i rather stay on this version and not go through that torture i was going through and i know many people on here know what i was talking about.


Unfortunately I'm more of an AMD guy. I really don't have a lot of experience with these new Devil Canyon CPU's. Like the guy @BangBangPlay stated, try Unigine Valley and see what temperatures you get from that after running it for about an hour. Also check to make sure all of the cores on your CPU are being utilized. You can do that by just bringing up the task manger and selecting the performance tab. Let me know how it goes.


----------



## Gavush

Is there any word or news of a 280mm version of the 220x?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Is there any word or news of a 280mm version of the 220x?


they said they will be announcing then soon...I think that particular one was gonna be the 240


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> they said they will be announcing then soon...I think that particular one was gonna be the 240


Only problem with 280 is fan choice. Now noctua has the 140mn 2000rpm which are just beastly but that's about it. For the small gain if stick with 240mm. I'm surprised more people don't pick up the glacer 240l. They fixed the pump issue and at microcenter it's only 99.99. I love it. It outperforms any aio I ever had by far. I'll be posting I. A week when I change the tubing to clear with blue coolant and sp120 blue fans spray painted rings to be dark blue to match in my enthoo pro. I'm debating getting a gtx 980 or watercool ing the 780 what do you think. If I stay with the 780 I can also spray paint just the plastic cover. See tek syndicate video where he colored his white and it is easy and looks amazing. It's only the plastic not the fans and easy as. 4 screws to remove and paint for a great look


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> im sorry for posting again but i have to post 1 more time.this is too good to be true for me. im on 4.6 w/ 1.3volts and idling......just take a look
> 
> again,can a bios version do this? especially an "updated" version.
> 
> *atleast im at peace knowing its not my H220X. im a happy camper now. Still waiting on my CLP,dont know if i should delid now. give me thoughts and opinions.i will be here all day.


The fact you messed with LLC (I'm assuming that's what you mean by cpu power phase 8) settings probably has a lot to do with the better temps.

You really, really shouldn't delid unless you really, really know what you're doing. You need to know ALL the risks involved and ALL the benefits involved. Weigh your options. Once you delid there is no going back. If you mess up on the delid then your CPU is dead.


----------



## shanker

I decided to buy a second radiator to add to my H220X CPU/GPU loop in my Define Mini R2. Should I loop it like this:

H220X to CPU to GPU to Alpacool NexXxos UT60 240mm to H220x?

I have the H220X on top right now and will add the new radiator to the front with a couple PWM Noctuas I have.


----------



## M3TAl

The order of components doesn't matter at all. Do whatever is easiest/looks the cleanest.


----------



## emsj86

If I run a single 360mm to my fx 8350 at say 4.6 and than to my gtx 780 at the stock can it handle it well. I heard having a rad in between compared to a single large rad is the same or diff in temp is so min bc the speed it is moving


----------



## Gavush

Yeah... I wanted a 280 because I wanted to utilize all the area in the top of my case and it seemed a waste of any positive case pressure airflow to have it going around the sides of a 240 (blowing out the top) instead of assisting airflow through a 280
. I got a kraken x61 but I'm not very happy with it due to numerous issues and may return it - it does not do 100% white. One fan vibrates like crazy, CPU temp in CAM is 10-15c lower than temps in hwmonitor, speedfan, occt. and it's annoying to have to ok the software each start-up. I'm also not sure how I feel about the 240x pump/res blocking part of the view of the RAM. I just bought dominator platinum and spend the extra $40 because I liked how it looks.


----------



## leo5111

anyone know if the swiftech h320 will fit in the roof of a haf-x 942?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> anyone know if the swiftech h320 will fit in the roof of a haf-x 942?


Without a problem.


----------



## leo5111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Without a problem.


ok thanks, do you have any install pics for the haf x?


----------



## springs113

Hey Bryan, that Apogee XL is something special, I love the design and its operation is definitely top notch. I couldn't have chosen a better block than that to do my first custom loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> ok thanks, do you have any install pics for the haf x?


Just Google Haf X and H320. Here's one that I found for you though.  It does look like you'll loose use of the top 2 optical bays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Hey Bryan, that Apogee XL is something special, I love the design and its operation is definitely top notch. I couldn't have chosen a better block than that to do my first custom loop.


Glad to hear it.


----------



## leo5111

i only have a dvd burner drive so loosing 2 of em wont matter


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> I don't mind mixing blocks myself. all-copper/brass needed though.


All they had left were Nickel X0


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just Google Haf X and H320. Here's one that I found for you though.  It does look like you'll loose use of the top 2 optical bays.
> Glad to hear it.


I can confirm this as well. I use a HAF 932 with a H320 which has the same internal lay-out.
It easily fits in there and it will lose the top 2 bays yeah. My advice would be to mount it like it is on that pic with the hoses in the 5,25" bays. I had it mounted the other way around first but that makes the hoses qutie long and they are getting in the way of the GPU and such then.


----------



## leo5111

question though how the heck do you fill it? i mean without removing the fan housing on top of the case?


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> question though how the heck do you fill it? i mean without removing the fan housing on top of the case?


I don't. I have to remove the rad for that but that doesn't matter as it's not that often. The rad is just screwed to the top of the case using the screws that hold the fans as well. The long ones. As I use push-pull Noiseblockers on it.

Haven't checked, filled nor replaced the cooolant in well over 6 months now and it still runs just fine. No noises, perfect temperatures..








Stays under 60c game load and under 75c Prime95 AVX / LinX / IBT even on 5.05Ghz 1.448v with a delidded and CLU pasted 3770k.


----------



## michael-ocn

Anyone using an h220x in a corsair 450d? I'm wondering if it fits up top with an asus x99 deluxe. Seems like it should, but i'm not sure about the clearance around the mobo heatsinks.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Any updates on the release date for the H220X adapters?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Any updates on the release date for the H220X adapters?


These should be arriving any day now. I'll post here as soon as they arrive.


----------



## leo5111

oh i noticed i said haf-x, mine is haf-x 942 this one http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2010/05/cooler-master-haf-x-and-the-future/haf942-wide.jpg


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> oh i noticed i said haf-x, mine is haf-x 942 this one http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2010/05/cooler-master-haf-x-and-the-future/haf942-wide.jpg


They are the same. The HAF X is the HAF X 942.


----------



## leo5111

will i still be able to ise my front ports on my case? or am i going to have to sacrifice that? thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> will i still be able to ise my front ports on my case? or am i going to have to sacrifice that? thanks


Of course you'll still be able to use the front ports. The radiator won't interfere with those.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

*Quick Question to all owners of the H220x:* Would it be easier to add a small res for filling, bleeding, etc? I plan on adding a couple small blocks and I just dont want to deal with having to unmount the radiator to bleed the system. Plus, with a small res, wont a lot of air bubbles just naturally come to the top of the res as the system runs?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> *Quick Question to all owners of the H220x:* Would it be easier to add a small res for filling, bleeding, etc? I plan on adding a couple small blocks and I just dont want to deal with having to unmount the radiator to bleed the system. Plus, with a small res, wont a lot of air bubbles just naturally come to the top of the res as the system runs?


A small res will help facilitate bleeding and give you a good spot to top off the loop after the air exits. You will still have to initially start to fill the loop through the H220X fill port first so the pump doesn't run dry. But in my experience it can take between several hours to a few days to get all of the air out of the H220X once the coolant has been changed. So having an extra reservoir in the loop can be extremely convenient. You won't have to touch the fragile belled screw either, all the air will exit out of the res and as it exits you just top off the res. If you are adding other components to the H220X it is totally worth adding a small res...


----------



## leo5111

does the h320 come with any adaptors id need to mount it or will i need to buy something else?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Really debating a small less than 500ml reservoir. I also need a drain setup.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Really debating a small less than 500ml reservoir. I also need a drain setup.


Check out swiftech micro res 2. Good and very affordable and comes with mounts. Than just by some fittings and put a drain off it or a t at the lowest point of your loop


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> A small res will help facilitate bleeding and give you a good spot to top off the loop after the air exits. You will still have to initially start to fill the loop through the H220X fill port first so the pump doesn't run dry. But in my experience it can take between several hours to a few days to get all of the air out of the H220X once the coolant has been changed. So having an extra reservoir in the loop can be extremely convenient. You won't have to touch the fragile belled screw either, all the air will exit out of the res and as it exits you just top off the res. If you are adding other components to the H220X it is totally worth adding a small res...


Thanks. I think youre the one who first recommended a small res to me in our PMs. I want to go acrylic and Im about to get another mobo, so Im going to add a full cover. And im pretty sure that im going to have to bleed it. Last thing I want to do is use the bleeding screw on the unit. Ive noticed that a lot of people dont have their res filled all the way, there is air at the top. I guess gravity keeps it from entering the lines again once it comes up, right? (i.e. liquid is heavier so that gets puled into the lines while air stays at the top) Or am I way off on this?


----------



## Gabkicks

I am using IC Diamond 7 TIM. I dunno if that makes a big difference. I haven't delidded or anything
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> thats WAYYY better than mine! are you using the H220 X? But again,thats way better than me,if i run IBT on very high ill get high 80s maybe low 90 with the H220X. and i also have an open case atm.


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The last time I checked it looks like the H220X will arrive in Europe at the end of this month or early September. I think there was a shipping issue that caused this latest delay and that's why they were originally supposed to be there last week. I'm sorry about that.


Any updates on this? I still can't find anything in EU other than HighFlow.nl which I hear might be out of stock.


----------



## Streetdragon

i ordert today a H220X at HighFlow and it is out of stock. But if they deliver it, i do alittle post. When you are fast enough, maybe you can get one^^


----------



## MojoW

Bryan i'm waiting on your reply, the drops of dish soap did not stop the pump noise at all.
And the noise started @ 1600rpm it still did after adding the dish soap but now it starts @ 1500rpm.
It seems to be gradually getting worse.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> Bryan i'm waiting on your reply, the drops of dish soap did not stop the pump noise at all.
> And the noise started @ 1600rpm it still did after adding the dish soap but now it starts @ 1500rpm.
> It seems to be gradually getting worse.


Please PM me so that I can assist you with getting this issue resolved.


----------



## orndorf77

I am about to order the swiftech h220x would it be worth it to buy a extra swiftech 120mm pwm fan so I can do a push pull on one side of the radiator ?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am about to order the swiftech h220x would it be worth it to buy a extra swiftech 120mm pwm fan so I can do a push pull on one side of the radiator ?


Not really, I did it because I bought 2 sp120's because i don't like the white blades on the swiftech fans


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I was considering this myself as I have some extra phanteks fans but the reason I didn't do so yet is the orientation I did in my case to not have to replace the hoses they were turned in the way of the fan mounting spot when I get more rads and replumb I'll remedy it and do just that


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Not really, I did it because I bought 2 sp120's because i don't like the white blades on the swiftech fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I was considering this myself as I have some extra phanteks fans but the reason I didn't do so yet is the orientation I did in my case to not have to replace the hoses they were turned in the way of the fan mounting spot when I get more rads and replumb I'll remedy it and do just that


i just ordered the h220x and a extra swiftech pwm fan . the swiftech fan was only $12 and i paid $140 for the h220x .


----------



## orndorf77

how is the thermal paste that comes with the swiftech h220x ? i have coollaboratory liquid pro and i am using it on my corsair h100i i also have gelid gc extreme . which thermal paste should i use ?


----------



## Gabkicks

in,thats way better than me,if i run IBT on very high ill get high 80s maybe low 90 with the H220X. and i also have an open case atm.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how is the thermal paste that comes with the swiftech h220x ? i have coollaboratory liquid pro and i am using it on my corsair h100i i also have gelid gc extreme . which thermal paste should i use ?


yeah i was wondering myself how the tim compares to IC diamond 7 and others.


----------



## orndorf77

Will I see a temperature drop going to a h220x from a corsair h100i mounted using coollaboratory liquid pro ? or will I have to use coolaboratory liquid pro on my h220x to to see a temperature drop ?


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how is the thermal paste that comes with the swiftech h220x ? i have coollaboratory liquid pro and i am using it on my corsair h100i i also have gelid gc extreme . which thermal paste should i use ?


I re-visited this subject (the importance of thermal paste) recently after returning to rig building after a long time away from it. I don't think it is all that important since the CPU die isn't exposed like it used to be due to the advent of, and the design of heatspreaders today. There are those that will insist that paste is important though - so it is up to you. Personally I think the way you apply it is as important, if not more so, than the what concoctions are in the stuff.

So use the one you like for whatever reason and apply it correctly - a liberal but not sloppy "X" or "+" pattern is usually best.

_Now I am going to ask for asylum in a non-disclosed third world country with no extradition treaty with the USA while various and sundry people assail this claim and call me no better than a varlet, cad and a bounder._









ACQ


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> Will I see a temperature drop going to a h220x from a corsair h100i mounted using coollaboratory liquid pro ? or will I have to use coolaboratory liquid pro on my h220x to to see a temperature drop ?


You should see a slight temp drop from the H100i if using the H220X as an AIO too. If you add to your loop the temps could improve or decline depending on the overall heat output of your components vs total rad space.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> You should see a slight temp drop from the H100i if using the H220X as an AIO too. If you add to your loop the temps could improve or decline depending on the overall heat output of your components vs total rad space.


I have x2 gtx 780's in sli I would need to buy another radiator and x2 water blocks and fittings how much more money would I need to liquid cool my gpu's


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have x2 gtx 780's in sli I would need to buy another radiator and x2 water blocks and fittings how much more money would I need to liquid cool my gpu's


Depends on which blocks and how many radiators you want to add


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Depends on which blocks and how many radiators you want to add


wow I was just checking out swiftech water blocks and they go from $150 and up for one water block that's crazy . do you know of any good water blocks that don't cost that much ? the most I would be willing to spend to cool both my gpu's is $200 and that with the radiator and the fittings and every thing . is that possible ? if not I would rater just get x2 nzxt kraken g10's and x2 thermaltake 3.0 performers that would cost me $200 or less


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have x2 gtx 780's in sli I would need to buy another radiator and x2 water blocks and fittings how much more money would I need to liquid cool my gpu's


A couple of EK blocks would be around $200, another 360mm (or 240mm at least) rad would be around $80, and some extra fittings and tubing could run anywhere from $40-$80 depending on the brand and types. I like Bitspower fittings, but I also bought some Koolance rotary elbows that were good quality and reasonably priced. You don't have to change most of the fittings on the H220X, especially if you use 5/8 OD tubing and 3/8 fittings on the rest of your loop. They are pretty good quality and are rotary too.

I also cool two GTX 770s SLI and a 4670K (4.7 @1.280V) with the H220X and an Alphacool 240mm x 45mm thick rad and get very good temps. Especially the GPUs, they don't go over 54C in 1920X1080 Furmark Burn in test. I used to run them on their own separate loop until I swapped my H100i for the H220X. The CPU temps are slightly lower than what I was seeing with the H100i, but I'll take that any day. My biggest concern was the two GPUs in close proximity in my mATX board.


----------



## emsj86

This a before later I'll show you the after


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> A couple of EK blocks would be around $200, another 360mm (or 240mm at least) rad would be around $80, and some extra fittings and tubing could run anywhere from $40-$80 depending on the brand and types. I like Bitspower fittings, but I also bought some Koolance rotary elbows that were good quality and reasonably priced. You don't have to change most of the fittings on the H220X, especially if you use 5/8 OD tubing and 3/8 fittings on the rest of your loop. They are pretty good quality and are rotary too.
> 
> I also cool two GTX 770s SLI and a 4670K (4.7 @1.280V) with the H220X and an Alphacool 240mm x 45mm thick rad and get very good temps. Especially the GPUs, they don't go over 54C in 1920X1080 Furmark Burn in test. I used to run them on their own separate loop until I swapped my H100i for the H220X. The CPU temps are slightly lower than what I was seeing with the H100i, but I'll take that any day. My biggest concern was the two GPUs in close proximity in my mATX board.


is the h220x really good enough to build a full custom water loop around ? I mean if I was going to spend $300 on gpu water blocks and radiators wouldn't it be better to go for the gusto and buy some thing like a xspc raystorm d5 photon or some thing even better that way I would know that the $300 i spent on gpu water blocks and a radiator wasn't a waste of money and I am getting the most out of that $300 worth of additional of hardware i just bought . I am just worried that if I spend $300 on x2 water blocks and a 240mm radiator that the h220x wont be up to par with other custom water loops . is it able to do the job as good as other custom water loops ?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is the h220x really good enough to build a full custom water loop around ? I mean if I was going to spend $300 on gpu water blocks and radiators wouldn't it be better to go for the gusto and buy some thing like a xspc raystorm d5 photon or some thing even better that way I would know that the $300 i spent on gpu water blocks and a radiator wasn't a waste of money and I am getting the most out of that $300 worth of hardware i just bought . I am just worried that if I spend $300 on x2 water blocks and a 240mm radiator that the h220x wont be up to par with other custom water loops .


The 220x pretty much is a custom loop. It has a great pump also. Don't get confused. Just because its sold as a AIO, doesn't mean it is. This is a kit capable of being a full loop. It even comes with a cpu block that people use on other loops. You could also upgrade the pump so that you get even better performance for expansion


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> The 220x pretty much is a custom loop. It has a great pump also. Don't get confused. Just because its sold as a AIO, doesn't mean it is. This is a kit capable of being a full loop. It even comes with a cpu block that people use on other loops. You could also upgrade the pump so that you get even better performance for expansion


is it good enough to spend $300 or $350 to add x2 gpu water blocks and a radiator using the pump that's on it now ? or would you upgrade the pump before you spent $300 to $350 on water blocks and a radiator ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is the h220x really good enough to build a full custom water loop around ? I mean if I was going to spend $300 on gpu water blocks and radiators wouldn't it be better to go for the gusto and buy some thing like a xspc raystorm d5 photon or some thing even better that way I would know that the $300 i spent on gpu water blocks and a radiator wasn't a waste of money and I am getting the most out of that $300 worth of additional of hardware i just bought . I am just worried that if I spend $300 on x2 water blocks and a 240mm radiator that the h220x wont be up to par with other custom water loops . is it able to do the job as good as other custom water loops ?


It is worth it in the right system and situation. In my case (both meanings of the word) I just didn't have room and I needed another pump. I originally designed my GPU loop to be separate from the CPU, so I used the modest and silent EK 2.2. But then I decided to finish what I started but I would've needed another pump. The H220X was a logical choice, plus it fit nicely in my 350D. Both pumps work well (and almost silent) together because I run the MCP30 at a low percentage on idle and it doesn't go much above 50-60% at load.

So basically if you have a smaller case and don't have much room for a large pump and res the H220X is a good place to start your loop. The pump will run that loop fine. But if you have the room and the money to spend you could surely design a beefy and expensive loop. The H220X was a perfect solution for my situation, but I don't know if it is for you necessarily.

I think its target market is people who want an AIO CPU cooler that they have the ability to expand if they want to. And for the price and quality it really can't be beat. Try putting together a list of similar custom components (240mm copper rad, mid sized PWM pump and res, Apogee XL block, and fittings/tubing) and you'll spend well over $200. So it is a good solution for certain buyers.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> It is worth it in the right system and situation. In my case (both meanings of the word) I just didn't have room and I needed another pump. I originally designed my GPU loop to be separate from the CPU, so I used the modest and silent EK 2.2. But then I decided to finish what I started but I would've needed another pump. The H220X was a logical choice, plus it fit nicely in my 350D. Both pumps work well (and almost silent) together because I run the MCP30 at a low percentage on idle and it doesn't go much above 50-60% at load.
> 
> So basically if you have a smaller case and don't have much room for a large pump and res the H220X is a good place to start your loop. The pump will run that loop fine. But if you have the room and the money to spend you could surely design a beefy and expensive loop. The H220X was a perfect solution for my situation, but I don't know if it is for you necessarily.
> 
> I think its target market is people who want an AIO CPU cooler that they have the ability to expand if they want to. And for the price and quality it really can't be beat. Try putting together a list of similar custom components (240mm copper rad, mid sized PWM pump and res, Apogee XL block, and fittings/tubing) and you'll spend well over $200. So it is a good solution for certain buyers.


that's why I bought it I am getting it tomorrow and I also bought the corsair air 540 and a few additional fans . I cant wait I'm going to post pictures tomorrow after I put every thing togeather


----------



## BangBangPlay

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> that's why I bought it I am getting it tomorrow and I also bought the corsair air 540 and a few additional fans . I cant wait I'm going to post pictures tomorrow after I put every thing togeather


I'm sure you'll be plenty happy, especially with that case. It's a great CPU block to boot. If you had a 900D it wouldn't make much sense cause it's logical mounting position is horizontal in the roof. Just grab as thick a rad as you can for the front (54mm maybe?) and you should see decent temps. You could probably add a single 120mm to the rear exhaust fan too in that case.

On another note I started OCing my 770s higher than I ever did on air and they have a good amount of headroom. I am getting scores on 3D Mark 11 that I couldn't touch on air. I have been raising the core and memory slowly and I haven't seen artifacts yet. So good water cooling really opens up these cards. Not that I really have to OC them anyways, but the headroom is there now...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This a before later I'll show you the after


So I was happy to finally drain my loop install the clear tubing with blue coolant. My af140 and 2 sp120 fans to match and my new led white lights. Well I drain the tubing open my package and the I got sent the wrong tubing size. Ok whatever I fill my loop back up. Well than my led white lights turn out to be red (didn't find out until I fired the unit up) and both sp120 fans have cracked blades. I'm due for some good luck soon. So frustrated


----------



## emsj86




----------



## orndorf77

Can I use the pwm fan hub that comes with the h220x to connect my case fans to even though my case fans are not pwm ?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*


I'm sure you'll be plenty happy, especially with that case. It's a great CPU block to boot. If you had a 900D it wouldn't make much sense cause it's logical mounting position is horizontal in the roof. Just grab as thick a rad as you can for the front (54mm maybe?) and you should see decent temps. You could probably add a single 120mm to the rear exhaust fan too in that case.

On another note I started OCing my 770s higher than I ever did on air and they have a good amount of headroom. I am getting scores on 3D Mark 11 that I couldn't touch on air. I have been raising the core and memory slowly and I haven't seen artifacts yet. So good water cooling really opens up these cards. Not that I really have to OC them anyways, but the headroom is there now...[/quote]


----------



## orndorf77

I have to get water blocks if I am to overclock my graphic cards my top card hits 80c and my bottom card hits 70c when benchmarking


----------



## orndorf77

I am posting with my phone forgive my messed up quotes


----------



## M3TAl

Non PWM case fans connected to the PWM splitter will run at 100% 24/7.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Check out swiftech micro res 2. Good and very affordable and comes with mounts. Than just by some fittings and put a drain off it or a t at the lowest point of your loop


Do you think the microres2 has to be anywhere specific? Or would it not matter since there is the dedicated res built to the pump?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Do you think the microres2 has to be anywhere specific? Or would it not matter since there is the dedicated res built to the pump?


Depending on your case and setup the H220X's fill port and bleed screw could be difficult to access. The bleeding process can be slow so adding another res adds another place for air to escape and you can use it to top off the loop after air escapes instead of using the fill port on the side. Consider this if you are expanding your loop and don't have easy access to the H220X's fill port.


----------



## mwsantos88256

I just screwed a barb fitting in the fill port and put a hose on it and capped the end of it for filling. Access is easy but I have to tip my case back to get the air out. If I use the bleed screw liquid just shoots out at my face. 220x is roof mounted in a 540 for me. So I am heavily considering using the swiftech micro res.


----------



## BramSLI1

This is to announce that I am planning to leave for Germany soon to further my education. Due to this we're looking for individuals in the LA area (preferably close to Long Beach) that would be interested in applying for my position. You can PM me or email me directly at [email protected] to enquire about the position. Please also provide any pertinent references and experience that would qualify you. Availability is the sooner the better so that we can begin training before I intend to leave in early October.


----------



## cennis

If I use some clear tubing with the black pvc tubing will I get some plasticzer coming off of the black tubing?

I am using primochill advanced LRT so it shouldnt have plasticizer issues


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> If I use some clear tubing with the black pvc tubing will I get some plasticzer coming off of the black tubing?
> 
> I am using primochill advanced LRT so it shouldnt have plasticizer issues


You should be fine. Just use the proper coolant


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You should be fine. Just use the proper coolant


is distilled water considered "proper coolant"?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> is distilled water considered "proper coolant"?


Sure! I would add in an anti corrosive/antimicrobial agent as well.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sure! I would add in an anti corrosive/antimicrobial agent as well.


the context of my reply was my concern of the quality of these stock pvc black tubing, and whether it leaches plasticizer


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> the context of my reply was my concern of the quality of these stock pvc black tubing, and whether it leaches plasticizer


I know, but that reply was just in case you/others who read this discussion decide to stick to just distilled water. But as to if if is ok with plasticizer, yes it will be fine.


----------



## Akima18

Hi Everyone!

I'm usually a lurker here, but I wanted to get into building my own water cooling setup! I purchased a H220-X since it seems very beginner friendly and also expandable (before this I have only ever use a H100, which I really liked).

I currently have a HAF-X That I have had for a long time, and understand that without modding I really need to upgrade to get full use of the H220-X with expanding it for additional radiators and GPU cooling.

I was thinking about purchasing one of Phanteks Enthoo line (at the moment I am thinking about buying the Luxe) so that I can expand upon the H220-X.

My questions are:

1) Does anyone know if I would I be able to easily mount the H220-X on the front of the case? (It has available space for a 240mm radiator on the front in push/pull configuration if I take out the hard-drive bays). Would this make filling / maintenance of my loop any more difficult compared to having it on the top?

2) The reason I wanted to put it on the front is so I could purchase an additional 360mm / 420mm radiator for the top! (I believe 240mm is max on the front). I am going to be water cooling my two GTX 670's (or maybe wait for the new 900 series to come out and purchase those) and my CPU. Would it be smart instead just to have the H220-X on top and purchase an additional 240mm radiator for the front, or would that be too little?

3) Is the pump on the H220-X sufficient to handle an additional 360mm/420mm radiator and cooling two GTX 670GPU's (or possibly two of the 900 series when it comes out) and an i5 3570k?

4) Can anyone recommend a different PC case that might be more optimal for the setup I am going for? Any suggestions / advice would be greatly appreciated!

Any other advice would greatly be apprciated! (Such as which 360mm/420mm radiator would be best in my case, I do not think I have any limit on the thickness of the radiator).

Really looking forward to getting the H220-X and put together a nice water cooling case







Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for the long post!


----------



## emsj86

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> the context of my reply was my concern of the quality of these stock pvc black tubing, and whether it leaches plasticizer


you will be fine. I don't think there will any problems


----------



## emsj86

I know it's a little off topic but during my expanding of my glacer 240l I put my pwm fans on the chasis headers. Now I have a 990fx sabertooth mobo. In bios You can set min : max temp levels for the chasis fans. My question is that temp from the cpu or the mobo/chasis itself.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akima18*
> 
> Hi Everyone!
> 
> I'm usually a lurker here, but I wanted to get into building my own water cooling setup! I purchased a H220-X since it seems very beginner friendly and also expandable (before this I have only ever use a H100, which I really liked).
> 
> I currently have a HAF-X That I have had for a long time, and understand that without modding I really need to upgrade to get full use of the H220-X with expanding it for additional radiators and GPU cooling.
> 
> I was thinking about purchasing one of Phanteks Enthoo line (at the moment I am thinking about buying the Luxe) so that I can expand upon the H220-X.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1) Does anyone know if I would I be able to easily mount the H220-X on the front of the case? (It has available space for a 240mm radiator on the front in push/pull configuration if I take out the hard-drive bays). Would this make filling / maintenance of my loop any more difficult compared to having it on the top?
> 
> 2) The reason I wanted to put it on the front is so I could purchase an additional 360mm / 420mm radiator for the top! (I believe 240mm is max on the front). I am going to be water cooling my two GTX 670's (or maybe wait for the new 900 series to come out and purchase those) and my CPU. Would it be smart instead just to have the H220-X on top and purchase an additional 240mm radiator for the front, or would that be too little?
> 
> 3) Is the pump on the H220-X sufficient to handle an additional 360mm/420mm radiator and cooling two GTX 670GPU's (or possibly two of the 900 series when it comes out) and an i5 3570k?
> 
> 4) Can anyone recommend a different PC case that might be more optimal for the setup I am going for? Any suggestions / advice would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Any other advice would greatly be apprciated! (Such as which 360mm/420mm radiator would be best in my case, I do not think I have any limit on the thickness of the radiator).
> 
> Really looking forward to getting the H220-X and put together a nice water cooling case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for the long post!


Look on YouTube hardwarecancuncks enthoo pro. It's 89.99 and literally this case should be 150-200 dollars. I have it and it's hands down best case for the money. Very open and plenty of options for water cooling


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akima18*
> 
> Hi Everyone!
> 
> I'm usually a lurker here, but I wanted to get into building my own water cooling setup! I purchased a H220-X since it seems very beginner friendly and also expandable (before this I have only ever use a H100, which I really liked).
> 
> I currently have a HAF-X That I have had for a long time, and understand that without modding I really need to upgrade to get full use of the H220-X with expanding it for additional radiators and GPU cooling.
> 
> I was thinking about purchasing one of Phanteks Enthoo line (at the moment I am thinking about buying the Luxe) so that I can expand upon the H220-X.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1) Does anyone know if I would I be able to easily mount the H220-X on the front of the case? (It has available space for a 240mm radiator on the front in push/pull configuration if I take out the hard-drive bays). Would this make filling / maintenance of my loop any more difficult compared to having it on the top?
> 
> 2) The reason I wanted to put it on the front is so I could purchase an additional 360mm / 420mm radiator for the top! (I believe 240mm is max on the front). I am going to be water cooling my two GTX 670's (or maybe wait for the new 900 series to come out and purchase those) and my CPU. Would it be smart instead just to have the H220-X on top and purchase an additional 240mm radiator for the front, or would that be too little?
> 
> 3) Is the pump on the H220-X sufficient to handle an additional 360mm/420mm radiator and cooling two GTX 670GPU's (or possibly two of the 900 series when it comes out) and an i5 3570k?
> 
> 4) Can anyone recommend a different PC case that might be more optimal for the setup I am going for? Any suggestions / advice would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Any other advice would greatly be apprciated! (Such as which 360mm/420mm radiator would be best in my case, I do not think I have any limit on the thickness of the radiator).
> 
> Really looking forward to getting the H220-X and put together a nice water cooling case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for the long post!


First off welcome.
1) I'm not sure if it would fit but I believe there should be enough clearance. Yes it may, I had originally placed mine in the front of my 900D and I had to service it with the rad unmounted...I added another reservoir to help alleviate that situation.

2) You may want to add another rad just to be comfortable, I would go with more rad real estate just to be on the safe side. I say order the case you want along with your h220x and see if it fits the exact way you want before you make a second rad purchase. Go with something bigger than a 240 for the second rad purchase though.

3) I have mine cooling a 4770k @4.6ghz along with a 780 hydro copper classified, 420mm at the top and a 360 on the bottom. My temps are fine.

4) If no limit on rads I say in the order of performance...1 black ice gtx 360, 2 alphacool ut60(360) and 3 XSPC Rx360 v3.

I eventually took apart my 220x and is now using the cpu block in my haswell e build. Best thing about the 220x(modification). Alternatively you could buy the Apogee XL block along with the MCP50X(what i have going on) and a tube res of your choice and get one hell of an upgrade to the to the h220x for maybe $15-50 more.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> I just screwed a barb fitting in the fill port and put a hose on it and capped the end of it for filling. Access is easy but I have to tip my case back to get the air out. If I use the bleed screw liquid just shoots out at my face. 220x is roof mounted in a 540 for me. So I am heavily considering using the swiftech micro res.


Lol, I had a feeling that would happen. I never tried to use the bleed screw, or even the fill port because I didn't have to. I have another pump/res (EK 2.2 X-Res) in my loop that I used to fill, bleed, and top off. But I just had a bad feeling about filling and bleeding this thing as an AIO for other members. On top of that several people have PMed me about bleeding it and I didn't know what to tell them.

The optimum way to setup the H220X would be a small res (maybe a bay res) at the same level or above the unit that directly feeds the fill port. The problem is that it is mounted on the roof most of the time, so that isn't possible in most cases. It's too bad the H220X wasn't designed as a mirror image with the reservoir on the left hand side. That way people could use it in the front panel of their case and easily adapt a feed reservoir with some tubing and a fitting. The way it is designed now it would have to mounted in the back of your case, or backwards in the front to do this. Adding another res isn't a bad idea, but you still have to fill it using its fill port and then just let it bleed (and top it off) through the other res for a few days.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Lol, I had a feeling that would happen. I never tried to use the bleed screw, or even the fill port because I didn't have to. I have another pump/res (EK 2.2 X-Res) in my loop that I used to fill, bleed, and top off. But I just had a bad feeling about filling and bleeding this thing as an AIO for other members. On top of that several people have PMed me about bleeding it and I didn't know what to tell them.
> 
> The optimum way to setup the H220X would be a small res (maybe a bay res) at the same level or above the unit that directly feeds the fill port. The problem is that it is mounted on the roof most of the time, so that isn't possible in most cases. It's too bad the H220X wasn't designed as a mirror image with the reservoir on the left hand side. That way people could use it in the front panel of their case and easily adapt a feed reservoir with some tubing and a fitting. The way it is designed now it would have to mounted in the back of your case, or backwards in the front to do this. Adding another res isn't a bad idea, but you still have to fill it using its fill port and then just let it bleed (and top it off) through the other res for a few days.


Hrmm. Well I ordered the res. I could always front mount the h220x and put my other rad on the roof. Then take the third 120 fan out of the front and mount the res there.


----------



## orndorf77

I am in the middle of installing the h220x . how am I supposed to flip the fans around to make them exhaust air from my case ? I can't get to the screws on the pre installed fans what do I do?


----------



## orndorf77

How do you remove the default fans that are on the h220x ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> How do you remove the default fans that are on the h220x ?


Do you have a skinny phillips screw driver.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> How do you remove the default fans that are on the h220x ?


I used a Philips screwdriver from a "machine screwdriver" kit from the dollar store as I couldn't find my nice set


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is to announce that I am planning to leave for Germany soon to further my education. Due to this we're looking for individuals in the LA area (preferably close to Long Beach) that would be interested in applying for my position. You can PM me or email me directly at [email protected] to enquire about the position. Please also provide any pertinent references and experience that would qualify you. Availability is the sooner the better so that we can begin training before I intend to leave in early October.


congrats, but sorry.... * chains brian to the swiftech HQ * we can not let this happen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sure! I would add in an anti corrosive/antimicrobial agent as well.
> 
> 
> 
> the context of my reply was my concern of the quality of these stock pvc black tubing, and whether it leaches plasticizer
Click to expand...

all soft tubing besides certain forms of rubber leach.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> all soft tubing besides certain forms of rubber leach.


yea that was what I thought but primochill advanced.LRT has minimal problems with distilled, just afraid the black pvc will ruin the loop


----------



## orndorf77

I just installed the swiftech h220x . how does my build look


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just installed the swiftech h220x . how does my build look


Very nice! Now you just have get those GPU's wet.


----------



## BramSLI1

On a side note. It doesn't look like I'm going anywhere just yet. And no, Gabe didn't chain me to my desk. The housing situation that I had set up in Germany fell through and there isn't enough time for me to establish another one before school starts. It looks like I'll have to wait a year until the next semester to start. It's a bit of a downer, but at least I'll be here for you guys for a while longer.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very nice! Now you just have get those GPU's wet.


for some reason my temps are now 3c hotter then when I had my h100i installed . I mounted the swiftech h220x using coollaboratory liquid pro the same as how I had my corsair h100i . I plugged the water block in to cpu header one and I plugged the pump in to the 8 fan splitter and I plugged the 8 fan splitter in to cpu header 2 . do you think I should of plugged just the pump in to cpu header 2 ? or is that fan header wire that is connected to the pump just for the led light ? why do you think my temps are hotter with the swiftech h220x then they were with my corsair h100i ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Did you test the h100i recently? Testing conditions should be in the same situation, which includes ambient temperature as well as giving the clp time to settle in


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Did you test the h100i recently? Testing conditions should be in the same situation, which includes ambient temperature as well as giving the clp time to settle in


That would be my guess as well.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Did you test the h100i recently? Testing conditions should be in the same situation, which includes ambient temperature as well as giving the clp time to settle in


I always check my cpu temps I checked the temps on my h100i the day before I installed the h220x I applied the same thermal paste coollaboratory liquid pro . when I mounted the water block I mounted it side ways I then removed the water block and flipped it around so it was facing the rite way but I did not reapply the thermal paste I used the same thermal paste that was on it when I mounted it the first time . do you think this has something to do with it ? I did not even power the computer on when I had it mounted side ways and I flipped the water block rite away


----------



## mwsantos88256

Adjust your mobo fan curve for the pump!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Adjust your mobo fan curve for the pump!


I have the pump plugged in to the 8 fan splitter and I have the 8 fan splitter plugged into cpu fan header two and I can not adjust the fan speed or the pump speed on cpu fan header two I just have it set to smart fan . I can adjust the fan speed on my other fan headers but not the cpu fan headers . do you think I should try another fan header ?


----------



## icecpu

I desperately need H220-X to test out my new build, hoping to receive it from RMA sometime this weekend.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have the pump plugged in to the 8 fan splitter and I have the 8 fan splitter plugged into cpu fan header two and I can not adjust the fan speed or the pump speed on cpu fan header two I just have it set to smart fan . I can adjust the fan speed on my other fan headers but not the cpu fan headers . do you think I should try another fan header ?


Did you plug the pump into the red capped pins on the splitter?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Did you plug the pump into the red capped pins on the splitter?


I am not sure but I just went in to my bios and set all fan headers to max speed my temps are now exactly the same as when I had my h100i . and the noise level is about the same as when I had my h100i . the benefit I am seeing with the swiftech h220x is when I test my cpu temperatures after gaming my cpu temp does not get any hotter . when I tested my cpu temps on my corsair h100i after gaming my cpu temps would be like 3 to 4c hotter . but this mite be because of a got a new case


----------



## icecpu

for H220-X, can I plug the pump directly to cpu fan header, and the 2 fan plug in my phanteks PWM hub. the hub then connect to cpu fan # 2.
This way I only have to use 1 PWM hub.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> On a side note. It doesn't look like I'm going anywhere just yet. And no, Gabe didn't chain me to my desk. The housing situation that I had set up in Germany fell through and there isn't enough time for me to establish another one before school starts. It looks like I'll have to wait a year until the next semester to start. It's a bit of a downer, but at least I'll be here for you guys for a while longer.


Sorry it fell through

But definitely not sorry to have you a while longer


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> the context of my reply was my concern of the quality of these stock pvc black tubing, and whether it leaches plasticizer


After 1 year of use my h320 leached a lot of plasticizer,,,,, i set it up outside the case and ran it then removed the copper block,,it was full of plasticizer ,,had to do that three times to get it all out,,unfortunately that didn't stop the pump noise problem so expecting it back from RMA tomorrow

That being said,,couldn't fault swiftech support and having went back to a h80 while waiting for RMA I'm still a swiftech fan,,the h80 is hotter,,louder and feels flimsy compared to swiftech products


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> for H220-X, can I plug the pump directly to cpu fan header, and the 2 fan plug in my phanteks PWM hub. the hub then connect to cpu fan # 2.
> This way I only have to use 1 PWM hub.


Yes you can, and that should give you rpm readings of both the pump and the fans separately. I did something similar by hooking the pump to CPU_FAN and then the 8 way splitter to CPU_OPT. I connected 4 SP120 PWM fans to the splitter and now I get rpm readings for the the pump and the fans in AI Suite. The pump and fans are linked directly to the water loop temp and they have their own custom loop. It works very well.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> After 1 year of use my h320 leached a lot of plasticizer,,,,, i set it up outside the case and ran it then removed the copper block,,it was full of plasticizer ,,had to do that three times to get it all out,,unfortunately that didn't stop the pump noise problem so expecting it back from RMA tomorrow
> 
> That being said,,couldn't fault swiftech support and having went back to a h80 while waiting for RMA I'm still a swiftech fan,,the h80 is hotter,,louder and feels flimsy compared to swiftech products


ye i heard bad things about the h220/320 tubing. can bram comment on the h220x tubing


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> On a side note. It doesn't look like I'm going anywhere just yet. And no, Gabe didn't chain me to my desk. The housing situation that I had set up in Germany fell through and there isn't enough time for me to establish another one before school starts. It looks like I'll have to wait a year until the next semester to start. It's a bit of a downer, but at least I'll be here for you guys for a while longer.











i really was kidding not trying to jinxs you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Did you test the h100i recently? Testing conditions should be in the same situation, which includes ambient temperature as well as giving the clp time to settle in
> 
> 
> 
> I always check my cpu temps I checked the temps on my h100i the day before I installed the h220x I applied the same thermal paste coollaboratory liquid pro . when I mounted the water block I mounted it side ways I then removed the water block and flipped it around so it was facing the rite way but I did not reapply the thermal paste I used the same thermal paste that was on it when I mounted it the first time . do you think this has something to do with it ? I did not even power the computer on when I had it mounted side ways and I flipped the water block rite away
Click to expand...

yes it can

you can twist the cpu block but you can not lift up .... at all. if you do air will get trapped and you wont have good contact to the ihs making lots of issues


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i really was kidding not trying to jinxs you
> yes it can
> 
> you can twist the cpu block but you can not lift up .... at all. if you do air will get trapped and you wont have good contact to the ihs making lots of issues


also he stated he reused tim no just no never do this ever.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> ye i heard bad things about the h220/320 tubing. can bram comment on the h220x tubing


Any vinyl based tubing must contain plasticizer in order to be flexible. Ours is no different, and while we have given specific instructions to our tubing manufacturer to minimize it in their formulation, it is not possible to avoid white plasticizer deposits on the inner surface of the tubing over time.

We have in fact decided to totally eliminate any concerns that our users may have in this respect, and I want to take this opportunity to inform our customers that we are in the final stages of validating a new type of tubing for the H220X that does not contain any vinyl or plasticizers. Cosmetically, the external appearance of the new tubing will be a bit more rubbery (substantially less shiny) than the current tubing, but we believe that for people who DO NOT do enthusiast upgrades the trade-off in cleanliness is well worth it; as for our enthusiasts users, they change the tubing anyways for different colors, different sizes, etc.. so we believe that this solution offers the best of both worlds.


----------



## orndorf77

is it just me or does the led light on the h220x looks orange when the red block plate is installed ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is it just me or does the led light on the h220x looks orange when the red block plate is installed ?


Yes, it probably does look a little orange. We tried to find a plastic that wouldn't block too much light, but would also look as red as possible. This was about the best that we could find. Some customers have noticed that if you use a dark red marker on it you can get it closer to the red that you want.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it probably does look a little orange. We tried to find a plastic that wouldn't block too much light, but would also look as red as possible. This was about the best that we could find. Some customers have noticed that if you use a dark red marker on it you can get it closer to the red that you want.


the color doesn't bother me that much it is still a great looking cooler


----------



## BangBangPlay

Bryan, any plans to do an inverted H220X (or similar model) with the reservoir on the left side of the unit? It would certainly make mounting it vertically in the front of the case much more attractive. It would also be really easy to fill and bleed through the fill port. Just wondering...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Bryan, any plans to do an inverted H220X (or similar model) with the reservoir on the left side of the unit? It would certainly make mounting it vertically in the front of the case much more attractive. It would also be really easy to fill and bleed through the fill port. Just wondering...


No, I don't believe we have any plans at this time for producing or releasing such a product. If that changes though I'll definitely post it here.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Any vinyl based tubing must contain plasticizer in order to be flexible. Ours is no different, and while we have given specific instructions to our tubing manufacturer to minimize it in their formulation, it is not possible to avoid white plasticizer deposits on the inner surface of the tubing over time.
> 
> We have in fact decided to totally eliminate any concerns that our users may have in this respect, and I want to take this opportunity to inform our customers that we are in the final stages of validating a new type of tubing for the H220X that does not contain any vinyl or plasticizers. Cosmetically, the external appearance of the new tubing will be a bit more rubbery (substantially less shiny) than the current tubing, but we believe that for people who DO NOT do enthusiast upgrades the trade-off in cleanliness is well worth it; as for our enthusiasts users, they change the tubing anyways for different colors, different sizes, etc.. so we believe that this solution offers the best of both worlds.


that sounds good--any plans to sell that new tubing as a separate product?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> that sounds good--any plans to sell that new tubing as a separate product?


Yes, it will be available as a separate product. We're still in the validation process, so it's going to be a little while before it's available.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it will be available as a separate product. We're still in the validation process, so it's going to be a little while before it's available.


in different colours? or just black?

and sounds like its worth waiting for


----------



## 66racer

Well my h220 literally just died. Ironic part was I was watching an h220 review by oc3d at the time of its death to see what they did on their h220 review since the d15 cooled better.


----------



## shanker

Added the second radiator to the H220X. I have 7 PWM fans and two 240mm radiators running full blast and I looped the Valley Demo at 1440P maxed and my stock 4670K and Asus 290 wouldn't go over 37/39 degrees Celsius.

Now to learn how to overclock them! Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Added the second radiator to the H220X. I have 7 PWM fans and two 240mm radiators running full blast and I looped the Valley Demo at 1440P maxed and my stock 4670K and Asus 290 wouldn't go over 37/39 degrees Celsius.
> 
> Now to learn how to overclock them! Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!


Very clean... I like it... mines gonna be a bit more busy soon... adding a 240 and a 280 rad hopefully in the next week or so.. much thanks to @hiarc for the great deal


----------



## orndorf77

was the swiftech h220x designed to intake air from the top of the case ? because the fans come preinstalled as intake fans


----------



## emsj86

He said he used
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> also he stated he reused tim no just no never do this ever.....


the same kind. He didn't leave the old one and re use it.


----------



## orndorf77

does my components look installed cleanly ? I just put it together yesterday


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well my h220 literally just died. Ironic part was I was watching an h220 review by oc3d at the time of its death to see what they did on their h220 review since the d15 cooled better.


Please PM me about this so that I can assist you starting the RMA process.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well my h220 literally just died. Ironic part was I was watching an h220 review by oc3d at the time of its death to see what they did on their h220 review since the d15 cooled better.


Bummer, what are you using in the mean time? I'm glad I have two pumps in my loop...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> does my components look installed cleanly ? I just put it together yesterday


Your off to a good start. You could (and are likely planing on) add some bling in the future though. Maybe some colored fans, tubing, and sleeved cables. Speaking of tubing if you add to the H220X cut those tubes a bit shorter. It looks like you could get a 45-54mm rad in the front. Measure it with calipers or a tape before you choose one. Throw some waterblocks on those GPUs bro!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Finally can get back to watercooling my computer after i change cases. This chinese case is not working out much for me, and needed a reason to downsize(the reason is i have a m-atx motherboard waiting to be used, and the 7970 reference fan is pretty loud on load).

Just bought myself a Silverstone PS07B-W, going to mount the h220 in the front(after googling it, its possible to mount the h220 in the front, thank you silverstone engineers for being radiator friendly) and a 120mm rad in the back which is pretty vanilla so far. What's going to be special is what I'm planning to do with the GPU.

Basically since i have a Universal GPU block Heatkiller X3 core(refuse to pay for a new block) with a dremel, a shim and a design in mind which in essence is modifying the stock 7970 heatsink so I can use its fan solely to give airflow on the VRMs(as well as practice for using a dremel for the first time). The project will require me to accomplish 2 things:

1. Cut the bottom plate roughly around green lines to remove 7970 plate and heatsink:










2. Cut appropriate size hole for the Heatkiller Universal block to go through the stock 7970 heatsink(the easy part)

I personally debated possibly modding the 79x0 Swiftech full cover heatsink and adding a 80mm fan, but then it would have costed as much as a full block that route.

Cant wait to get back to watercooling with the H220 I have dormant atm. (my gpu temps are proabbly going to drop because I think i may use CLP i have still on the gpu die)


----------



## Mega Man

your going to hurt the memory on the opposite side of the block


----------



## Dudewitbow

OCing memory wasn't the highest of priorities. its still technically better than a more traditional red mod though

edit: after looking at the block again, I may be able to get away just cutting off the copper plate and the 4 corners where the screw would normally go.


----------



## Theroty

Well, I believe my the pump in my h220 is dieing. I have went months with it working great. Now it has developed a very loud buzz that can be heard several feet away. I pulled the radiator out and moved around. Then i had the wife hold the radiator above the case and i tilted the case all round to see if a bubble was in the pump but it did not seem to help it. Coolant is still moving fairly well from the looks of it. I am in the process of uploading a video i took. In the video you can hear the pump really well, even when above the case.

I bought it in December of 2013 so the warranty should still be good and luckily I have my hyper 212+ still sitting around. I will have to reduce my overclock though and go back to normal.

Edit: Here is the video.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Bummer, what are you using in the mean time? I'm glad I have two pumps in my loop...


Just picked up a cm212 evo when it failed. Couldn't find my gtx770 cooler screws though so didn't get it running yet lol I know I have them somewhere.

Will be fun seeing now the evo does on a 2700k. This failure occurs at time I have been wanting to experiment with some air coolers for itx cases so guess good timing lol

I know I will get the loop back together though for my 770 at least since I overvolt it when I game.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Well, I believe my the pump in my h220 is dieing. I have went months with it working great. Now it has developed a very loud buzz that can be heard several feet away. I pulled the radiator out and moved around. Then i had the wife hold the radiator above the case and i tilted the case all round to see if a bubble was in the pump but it did not seem to help it. Coolant is still moving fairly well from the looks of it. I am in the process of uploading a video i took. In the video you can hear the pump really well, even when above the case.
> 
> I bought it in December of 2013 so the warranty should still be good and luckily I have my hyper 212+ still sitting around. I will have to reduce my overclock though and go back to normal.
> 
> Edit: Here is the video.


PM me about this. I think I can resolve this noise issue for you fairly easily though.


----------



## cennis

i was cleaning the inside of the cpu block and lost the small center o ring.
its smaller than the regular 1/4 orings. bram what is this oring for? is it crucial? i dont think it prevents leaking is it used to spread out the water flow?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> i was cleaning the inside of the cpu block and lost the small center o ring.
> its smaller than the regular 1/4 orings. bram what is this oring for? is it crucial? i dont think it prevents leaking is it used to spread out the water flow?


It's used for the bow in the copper block and yeah, it's pretty crucial.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's used for the bow in the copper block and yeah, it's pretty crucial.


without it water will not passthrough the micro channels?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> without it water will not passthrough the micro channels?


Performance will definitely be hindered.


----------



## Eugenius

Ordered my h220x. I have a 900d case and I figured I can add an extra radiator to the 240 stock one and make a 480 that fits up top.

However, I am new to this. What radiator would fit with the one that comes with the 220x? What type of tubing and accessories would I need to get it installed?? It looks like I can daisy chain another rad fairly easy with this system. Looks much better than my h110!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Ordered my h220x. I have a 900d case and I figured I can add an extra radiator to the 240 stock one and make a 480 that fits up top.
> 
> However, I am new to this. What radiator would fit with the one that comes with the 220x? What type of tubing and accessories would I need to get it installed?? It looks like I can daisy chain another rad fairly easy with this system. Looks much better than my h110!


I don't think you're going to be able to fit two radiators like that end to end. Most radiators have tanks on one end and ports for the fittings on the other. Due to this you really can't place them end to end in order to take up the space of a larger radiator. Not unless you're willing to mod the case a little that is.


----------



## Eugenius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't think you're going to be able to fit two radiators like that end to end. Most radiators have tanks on one end and ports for the fittings on the other. Due to this you really can't place them end to end in order to take up the space of a larger radiator. Not unless you're willing to mod the case a little that is.


Good point. Then I would add a rad in the front. It's 120x3 fans there. Should be able to fit 240 or 360.

My question still is what all do I need to make it happen? Tubing, fittings, etc.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius*
> 
> Good point. Then I would add a rad in the front. It's 120x3 fans there. Should be able to fit 240 or 360.
> 
> My question still is what all do I need to make it happen? Tubing, fittings, etc.


You're going to need two fittings per port on the additional radiators and enough tubing to connect them. It's always best to have a little spare tubing left over in case you cut a length too short. You're also going to need more coolant.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're going to need two fittings per port on the additional radiators and enough tubing to connect them. It's always best to have a little spare tubing left over in case you cut a length too short. You're also going to need more coolant.


+ 1

I think the stock tubing on the h220x measures 3/8 ID 5/8 OD. You can stick with that or you can increase the size but I guess it's best to stick with the regular that is on the h220x.
Here's my setup with what you mentioned.

900d, 220x(front rad), 420 rad (ut45 up top), 360 rad (gts nemesis xflow). tube res from ek.


----------



## Kukukachu

Quick questions - setting up my 240l - pump is plugged into my cpu fan header, I shouldn't have to mess with the speed, right? BIOS says it is on "full on". If I do mess with the speed in speedfan/BIOS, is that gonna do anything (bad or otherwise) to the pump?

The only way I can get it to fit in my lil case is the fans push/intake, vertical mounting on front of case, hoses on the bottom. Sigh, it means the hoses gotta pass on the outside edge of the video card. The only way I could figure out mounting is using the case fan screws to mount the fans to my case - sounds right?

I have a grand total of 3(!) fan headers on my mobo - cpu, pwm, and "chassis". Strangely, I can only control the cpu and chassis (not the pwm..dunno why) in BIOS. So, I ended up plugging the 240l fans (on a y-splitter) into the chassis header, since the cpu is taken up by the pump. Turned em down to 50% in BIOS, they are running at about 1400 rpm (the loudest/fastest I can tolerate) and temps are about 34-38C, keep in mind its hot here...sounds about right for everything?

I guess I should buy a fan controller, but I am cheap... stock fans and free y-splitter somehow sounds more justified than the $60 for a controller + new fans, its pretty much what I paid for the Glacer unit. Is it worth it to upgrade the stock Blademasters?


----------



## orndorf77

i am amazed at how silent the swiftech h220x default fans are . in my bios it says they are spinning from 1800 to 1850 rpm . i have the swiftech fans and the pump installed in the 8 fan hub and i have the 8 fan hub installed on my cpu header # 2 . i am unable to control the fan speed of the cpu headers on my motherboard in my bios i can only disable or enable cpu smart setting I have cpu smart setting disabled and it is reading from 1800 to 1850 rpm is this the max speed of the swiftech h220x fans ?


----------



## Kukukachu

Deleted.


----------



## willinaustin

So back in December I was planning on building a new rig. Galaxies collided, stars exploded, and things happened where I ended up not building a new rig but having a new case and the Glacer 240L. So the 240L has been sitting in the box since December. Now I'm finally getting around to building a new rig with Haswell-E, etc.

I figured I was in good shape until I started reading about the 240L failing and setting itself on fire. Needless to say, I don't want to burn out a brand new Haswell-E processor and an X99 mobo. So, no big deal, I'll just buy the H220X, right? Except I guess it is out of stock until the 26th? No problem, says I! I'll just run the Intel stock cooler that comes with my new processor until I can get the H220X! Whoops. The Haswell-E processors don't ship with a cooler.

So what do you guys suggest? Waste some money on a small air cooler to tide me over until whenever I can get the H220X; or slap on the Glacer 240L and pray it doesn't roast my brand new system?


----------



## Dudewitbow

if the cooler failed, your computer should turn itself off. Im willing to bet any company designing x99 motherboards used quality parts on their motherboards to prevent any further damage. Id just use the 240L


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i am amazed at how silent the swiftech h220x default fans are . in my bios it says they are spinning from 1800 to 1850 rpm . i have the swiftech fans and the pump installed in the 8 fan hub and i have the 8 fan hub installed on my cpu header # 2 . i am unable to control the fan speed of the cpu headers on my motherboard in my bios i can only disable or enable cpu smart setting I have cpu smart setting disabled and it is reading from 1800 to 1850 rpm is this the max speed of the swiftech h220x fans ?


The only reading you are getting is from whatever is plugged into CH1 in the splitter. Depends if you hooked the pump or fan to CH1. If its the pump running ~1800RPM then the fans are probably running around 800-900 RPM. The max RPM for Swiftech Helix fans is 1800 RPM +/-10%.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kukukachu*
> 
> So
> Should I get a fan controller (I should get one eventually anyway, seeing as 3 fan headers are not enough for all my case fans), should I put the Blademasters on the chassis fan header not the pwm, should I replace the fans?


Before you get a fan controller I'd get pwm case fans and a fan splitter that gets power from the psu via molex or SATA and run the fans off the CPU header using rules from speed fan to decide how fast they run based on various temps.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The only reading you are getting is from whatever is plugged into CH1 in the splitter. Depends if you hooked the pump or fan to CH1. If its the pump running ~1800RPM then the fans are probably running around 800-900 RPM. The max RPM for Swiftech Helix fans is 1800 RPM +/-10%.


what is the max speed the pump is supposed be ?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> what is the max speed the pump is supposed be ?


3000 rpm


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> what is the max speed the pump is supposed be ?


I think it's 3000 RPM for the H220X/MCP30.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I think it's 3000 RPM for the H220X/MCP30.


do you think I should change the headers I am using for the h220x because I can not control the speed of the fans or the pump when they are plugged into the cpu fan headers on my motherboard I can only enable or disable cpu smart option . my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7 it has x2 4 pin cpu headers and x3 4 pin pwm fan headers.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do you think I should change the headers I am using for the h220x because I can not control the speed of the fans or the pump when they are plugged into the cpu fan headers on my motherboard I can only enable or disable cpu smart option . my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7 it has x2 4 pin cpu headers and x3 4 pin pwm fan headers.


doesnt MSI have a fan control curve maker inside the MSI Command Center program? as for not being able to control pump, Have you tried just using the CPU header #1. always prefer the original before using the second as there are a few cases on boards where the second is just voltage controlled or just mimics whatever is on the first.

as for pump to fan speed, your pump is roughly 1800, which is 33% point between its minimum and maximum(1200-3000). your fans will roughly then be at its 33% speed (800-1800) which would roughly be 1133 rpm


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> doesnt MSI have a fan control curve maker inside the MSI Command Center program? as for not being able to control pump, Have you tried just using the CPU header #1. always prefer the original before using the second as there are a few cases on boards where the second is just voltage controlled or just mimics whatever is on the first.
> 
> as for pump to fan speed, your pump is roughly 1800, which is 33% point between its minimum and maximum(1200-3000). your fans will roughly then be at its 33% speed (800-1800) which would roughly be 1133 rpm


yeah I'm thinking this is the case on my sabertooth r2.0 because on my phanteks pwm hub connected to cpu opt they show 100 percent but fan runs around 900 rpm so gonna have to switch to one of the other 4 headers I think


----------



## emsj86

So last night I installed primochill clear tubing and primochill uv blue coolant. First my uv blue in the bottle looks great in the system it's almost clear with a blue tint. My main question is what size out the screw on the cpu block for the glacer 240l. I ask this bc the screw are kinda stripped from the amd backplate which I think is caused by the springs. Now I used nuts to secure it in the backside so it works but it was a big pain in the butt that I wanna make easier next time by using new screws and nuts. Anyone help or give suggestions to help thank la Jim. By the way waiting on my blue uv leds.


----------



## Phelan

Hey guys, just wanted to say that I haven't forgotten!!!









My wife and I got moved and settled in about two weeks ago here in Fort Collins, CO. Sometime this week I should be able to get my unboxing review done and start the giveaway. I was hoping to get this done before we moved from Amarillo so I could do a performance test but there just wasn't time available. I'll let you know soon and link you guys the unboxing vid and the giveaway thread







.

Ross


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do you think I should change the headers I am using for the h220x because I can not control the speed of the fans or the pump when they are plugged into the cpu fan headers on my motherboard I can only enable or disable cpu smart option . my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7 it has x2 4 pin cpu headers and x3 4 pin pwm fan headers.


Doesn't your board have built in software for fan control while in Windows? I use Thermal Radar which is built into AI Suite on Asus boards. It doesn't use much memory and is good for creating fan profiles and monitoring your fans and temps. In Thermal Radar you have to start the "Thermal Tuning" utility first to allow the software to test each fan's limits. After that you gain full control of each fan, but your MB software may be different.

Only the CPU and CPU_OPT headers are true PWM, all the other board headers use voltage control. MB manufacturers advertise the 4 pin headers as having "PWM" mode, but they don't all use a true PWM signal, only the CPU fan headers. So if you want pump control and accurate fan control you are going to have to use the two CPU headers and a splitter. I hook my pump to the CPU header and then the 8 way splitter and 4 rad fans to the CPU_OPT fan header. You could try a fan utility like SpeedFan if your board doesn't have a built in utility.


----------



## M3TAl

May luck be in my favor! Have yet to win any type of giveaway/draw; anywhere, ever.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

I just joined the club. Compared to my h100I the 220-X is completely silent even running at 100%. I am adding a 240 radiator next week.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willinaustin*
> 
> So back in December I was planning on building a new rig. Galaxies collided, stars exploded, and things happened where I ended up not building a new rig but having a new case and the Glacer 240L. So the 240L has been sitting in the box since December. Now I'm finally getting around to building a new rig with Haswell-E, etc.
> 
> I figured I was in good shape until I started reading about the 240L failing and setting itself on fire. Needless to say, I don't want to burn out a brand new Haswell-E processor and an X99 mobo. So, no big deal, I'll just buy the H220X, right? Except I guess it is out of stock until the 26th? No problem, says I! I'll just run the Intel stock cooler that comes with my new processor until I can get the H220X! Whoops. The Haswell-E processors don't ship with a cooler.
> 
> So what do you guys suggest? Waste some money on a small air cooler to tide me over until whenever I can get the H220X; or slap on the Glacer 240L and pray it doesn't roast my brand new system?


The issue with the 240l has been fixed. I wouldn't worry. I've been running mine for awhile. See my post above of my new tubing with it


----------



## willinaustin

Yeah, but I bought this 240L back in December when they'd first come out. So it isn't a Version 2 or whatever.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Doesn't your board have built in software for fan control while in Windows? I use Thermal Radar which is built into AI Suite on Asus boards. It doesn't use much memory and is good for creating fan profiles and monitoring your fans and temps. In Thermal Radar you have to start the "Thermal Tuning" utility first to allow the software to test each fan's limits. After that you gain full control of each fan, but your MB software may be different.
> 
> Only the CPU and CPU_OPT headers are true PWM, all the other board headers use voltage control. MB manufacturers advertise the 4 pin headers as having "PWM" mode, but they don't all use a true PWM signal, only the CPU fan headers. So if you want pump control and accurate fan control you are going to have to use the two CPU headers and a splitter. I hook my pump to the CPU header and then the 8 way splitter and 4 rad fans to the CPU_OPT fan header. You could try a fan utility like SpeedFan if your board doesn't have a built in utility.


Asus boards have true PWM across all connectors (to the best of my knowledge with my Z77 at least). On newer boards (Z87 and newer), they have a small sensor on each plug that will detect whether you have a 4-pin PWM fan or a 3-pin voltage-controlled fan and pick between PWM and voltage control appropriately.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Asus boards have true PWM across all connectors (to the best of my knowledge with my Z77 at least). On newer boards (Z87 and newer), they have a small sensor on each plug that will detect whether you have a 4-pin PWM fan or a 3-pin voltage-controlled fan and pick between PWM and voltage control appropriately.


not true, not all z77 fan headers on Asus boards are PWM. coming from someone who is currently using a p8z77-v le plus and moving smaller to a p8z77-m pro soon. Just because its 4 pin doesnt mean it has PWM capabilities.

heres the manual picture for the p8z77-m pro for instance:










notice how the cpu header is the only one where the first port is PWM while all of the other headers have a +5v wire. Conveniently 12v-5v = 7v, the voltage most companies use to lower fan speeds down using voltage and not pwm


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to say that I haven't forgotten!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife and I got moved and settled in about two weeks ago here in Fort Collins, CO. Sometime this week I should be able to get my unboxing review done and start the giveaway. I was hoping to get this done before we moved from Amarillo so I could do a performance test but there just wasn't time available. I'll let you know soon and link you guys the unboxing vid and the giveaway thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Ross


welcome !

come join us !
http://www.overclock.net/t/1295438/colorado-overclockers/600_100#post_22686352


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> not true, not all z77 fan headers on Asus boards are PWM. coming from someone who is currently using a p8z77-v le plus and moving smaller to a p8z77-m pro soon. Just because its 4 pin doesnt mean it has PWM capabilities.
> 
> heres the manual picture for the p8z77-m pro for instance:
> 
> notice how the cpu header is the only one where the first port is PWM while all of the other headers have a +5v wire. Conveniently 12v-5v = 7v, the voltage most companies use to lower fan speeds down using voltage and not pwm


Interesting. All of those on the Z77 Sabertooth (aside from the ASST fans internal to the motherboard) are PWM capable:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Interesting. All of those on the Z77 Sabertooth (aside from the ASST fans internal to the motherboard) are PWM capable:
> ]


I can tell you they aren't. They drop voltage, measured with a multimeter.

Unless there is a feature in the BIOS to switch from PWM control to voltage control as there is in the current Z97 boards then the headers are not true PWM.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I can tell you they aren't. They drop voltage, measured with a multimeter.
> 
> Unless there is a feature in the BIOS to switch from PWM control to voltage control as there is in the current Z97 boards then the headers are not true PWM.


Interesting.

I'll take your word for it, since I unfortunately don't have a multimeter or oscilloscope (yet...) I can use for independent analysis. Only manuals and datasheets... :/


----------



## Gavush

my previous board - M5a97 R2.0 also said it had pwm fan control on the chassis fan headers. I spent a month back and forth with customer support. See this thread.

The easiest way to see if they're PWM or not is to plug in a LED PWM fan. If the LED gets dim when the fan is going slow, it's voltage controlled. If is stays full bright no matter the fan speed, it's PWM.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to say that I haven't forgotten!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife and I got moved and settled in about two weeks ago here in Fort Collins, CO. Sometime this week I should be able to get my unboxing review done and start the giveaway. I was hoping to get this done before we moved from Amarillo so I could do a performance test but there just wasn't time available. I'll let you know soon and link you guys the unboxing vid and the giveaway thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Ross


I can now officialy say welcome to Colorado! Hope you like it here, I came from Nebraska and I would never go back, lol! I see you ended up in FoCo. Your wife is going to come to hate that I-25 commute to Longmont I fear...

On topic, I think I will finally cave and pick up an H220x. I am going to wait for them to start selling the norprene version though.


----------



## Yvese

So I woke up this morning only to find out my idle temps were in the 50s instead of the 30s. Few minutes later, temps are in the 90s. Opened my case and didn't hear the pump running so I immediately shut down.

Few minutes later I turn on my PC and the pump is running again with temps back to normal. I'm afraid it will shut itself down though... has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> So I woke up this morning only to find out my idle temps were in the 50s instead of the 30s. Few minutes later, temps are in the 90s. Opened my case and didn't hear the pump running so I immediately shut down.
> 
> Few minutes later I turn on my PC and the pump is running again with temps back to normal. I'm afraid it will shut itself down though... has this happened to anyone else?


Mine died earlier this week. Bryan wanted me to make sure it wasnt an air bubble in the pump that caused it to lock up. Maybe run the pump at 100% and just monitor it?


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Mine died earlier this week. Bryan wanted me to make sure it wasnt an air bubble in the pump that caused it to lock up. Maybe run the pump at 100% and just monitor it?


I ran some games on it for an hour and seemed fine. I'm afraid to turn my PC off now until I get a replacement though. Having the pump fail to start is a good sign it's on its way out soon.

I'd get the H220X but I can't find it anywhere. Not sure I can RMA either since it's technically still working ( for who knows how long ).

EDIT: Apparently only the swiftech site has the h220x. I'm curious if I can actually RMA my h220 and get it cross-shipped though.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> I ran some games on it for an hour and seemed fine. I'm afraid to turn my PC off now until I get a replacement though. Having the pump fail to start is a good sign it's on its way out soon.
> 
> I'd get the H220X but I can't find it anywhere. Not sure I can RMA either since it's technically still working ( for who knows how long ).
> 
> EDIT: Apparently only the swiftech site has the h220x. I'm curious if I can actually RMA my h220 and get it cross-shipped though.


cross shipping happens through email. gotta email them first. iirc cross shipping has a few more requirements on information you have to include


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I can now officialy say welcome to Colorado! Hope you like it here, I came from Nebraska and I would never go back, lol! I see you ended up in FoCo. Your wife is going to come to hate that I-25 commute to Longmont I fear...
> 
> On topic, I think I will finally cave and pick up an H220x. I am going to wait for them to start selling the norprene version though.


Actually I'm the only one making the commute regularly, but I'm on my bike so it's not so bad, other than cold







. I have layers to keep warm though.

My '96 Buell S2T (1 of ~500 S2Ts built, only about 2200 S2s were built from '95-'96)


In commute/touring mode



Still needs paint, but that's low on the priority list at the moment







.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> cross shipping happens through email. gotta email them first. iirc cross shipping has a few more requirements on information you have to include


Sent an email. Hopefully they're available on sunday lol. I've heard good things about their CS though so hopefully things will go smoothly.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> I ran some games on it for an hour and seemed fine. I'm afraid to turn my PC off now until I get a replacement though. Having the pump fail to start is a good sign it's on its way out soon.
> 
> I'd get the H220X but I can't find it anywhere. Not sure I can RMA either since it's technically still working ( for who knows how long ).
> 
> EDIT: Apparently only the swiftech site has the h220x. I'm curious if I can actually RMA my h220 and get it cross-shipped though.


You can PM bramsli1 and he can answer that unless he sees your post and answers in here first.

Honestly though just keep an eye on it, just because its now working doesnt mean it wont stop spinning once already on. Im just saying maybe turn off the pc if you know you wont be on it because mine failed about 45mins into use. Youtube video was glitching bad and web browsing was hanging, next thing I know I get an asus pop up saying the cpu socket is at 74c or something like that which really means the cpu is around 90c so I frantically shut the pc off. Half the loop was super hot and the output side was much cooler. Cycled the power one more time, no start up on the pump. Got my backup/test psu out and powered it manually right off the psu and nothing. I had mine 9months. Its a great cooler but sucks it went out.

Being back on air isnt all that bad though till I get my replacement. The 212evo I picked up is holding its own against my 4.8ghx 2700k so I dont feel I need to lower the oc, its not like I am stress testing or anything. BF4 is in the 62-64c range which I figure is impressive since its 84F ambient this weekend in the house.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> You can PM bramsli1 and he can answer that unless he sees your post and answers in here first.
> 
> Honestly though just keep an eye on it, just because its now working doesnt mean it wont stop spinning once already on. Im just saying maybe turn off the pc if you know you wont be on it because mine failed about 45mins into use. Youtube video was glitching bad and web browsing was hanging, next thing I know I get an asus pop up saying the cpu socket is at 74c or something like that which really means the cpu is around 90c so I frantically shut the pc off. Half the loop was super hot and the output side was much cooler. Cycled the power one more time, no start up on the pump. Got my backup/test psu out and powered it manually right off the psu and nothing. I had mine 9months. Its a great cooler but sucks it went out.
> 
> Being back on air isnt all that bad though till I get my replacement. The 212evo I picked up is holding its own against my 4.8ghx 2700k so I dont feel I need to lower the oc, its not like I am stress testing or anything. BF4 is in the 62-64c range which I figure is impressive since its 84F ambient this weekend in the house.


Yea I'm definitely keeping a close eye on temps. If it fails I'll just use the intel stock cooler till a replacement gets here.

Funny thing is I've had mine for about 9 months as well. I bought it while it was on sale at NCIX during black friday I believe.


----------



## Gavush

If suggest you turn it off when not in use. Better to have it not start and be aware than have it quit while you're away and burn up.


----------



## Dry Bonez

if i buy a swiftech komodo NV LE,what are the chances of it being compatible with the GTX 900 series? seeing as they are only compatible with the 780s/titan.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

^Slim to none


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> ^Slim to none


what makes you say that?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what makes you say that?


Was a gtx 580 block compatible with a gtx 680, No. Was a gtx 680 black compatible with a gtx 780, No. I wouldn't buy a gpu block and hope it'll fit on the next series of cards.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Was a gtx 580 block compatible with a gtx 680, No. Was a gtx 680 black compatible with a gtx 780, No. I wouldn't buy a gpu block and hope it'll fit on the next series of cards.


Actually, there was some backwards compatibility. Some 670 blocks fit 760 reference boards....but that is the only one I can think of.

However, I have it from a good source that will not be the case with at least the 980. No existing block will fit the reference design as is. Whether it will work with a mod remains to be seen.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, there was some backwards compatibility. Some 670 blocks fit 760 reference boards....but that is the only one I can think of.
> 
> However, I have it from a good source that will not be the case with at least the 980. No existing block will fit the reference design as is. Whether it will work with a mod remains to be seen.


That may be true but the 670 and 760 are very similar cards with the exception of a few disabled cuda cores on the 760.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what makes you say that?


Nvidia regularly changes the PCB design on their higher end cards. I would be extremely surprised if GTX 980 or 970 used the same PCB as the GTX 780 or 770. This is particularly true of 80 versions. I don't think they've used the same PCB back to back for those versions in more than 8 years.


----------



## Lukeroge

Any news on the H240X? My H440 wants more cooling


----------



## noobrifle

Why does Swiftech recommend against bottom mounting the H-220x, as shown in the image below:



I'm keen to put a AIO radiator on the bottom of a Silverstone FT02 (which sucks air up from the bottom of case), but to get the H-220x to sit flat I'd need to flip it over. Would I be much better off just getting a H220 for the same job ala this pic from earlier in the thread:


----------



## VSG

The pump would be slightly above the reservoir then, and thus not get the coolant flowing into it naturally. Running these pumps on air even for a few seconds is a very bad idea.


----------



## noobrifle

Cheers. How would the standard H220 cope with being bottom mounted, given the pump is cpu mounted rather than part of the radiator?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobrifle*
> 
> Cheers. How would the standard H220 cope with being bottom mounted, given the pump is cpu mounted rather than part of the radiator?


It would have issues over time once evaporation starts to set in. Air will then travel up to the pump because it's lighter than the coolant. The only way to prevent this would be through periodic topping off of the coolant to prevent air from being able to get to the pump.


----------



## noobrifle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It would have issues over time once evaporation starts to set in. Air will then travel up to the pump because it's lighter than the coolant. The only way to prevent this would be through periodic topping off of the coolant to prevent air from being able to get to the pump.


Thanks for your quick response Bram.

Ah so it seems my options are :

1. See if there's a way to install a H220-x 'right way up' or vertically without messing with airflows.

2. Add a second reservoir higher up somewhere in the system.

3. Buy a more watercooling friendly case - by which point I may as well have spent the money customising to suit my existing case.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Ideas would include:

G1/4 to g1/4 extender off the fillcap and installing a tube reservoir at the other end of it.

90 degree radiator mount(note that you get no direct airflow)

Installing seperate res off the top or back


----------



## v1ral

Weird question to ask but here it goes...
Would it be wise to buy or has anyone tried using the h220x with those full cover cpu/motherboard block ek and bitspower sell? Something like the impact mobo or bitspower vii hero/ranger block set.

Another question, is it possible to use rigid tubing on the sections where there isn't a need for flex tubing?
I know it's possible but would it be advisable is someone wants to implement it into the loop upgrade.


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Weird question to ask but here it goes...
> Would it be wise to buy or has anyone tried using the h220x with those full cover cpu/motherboard block ek and bitspower sell? Something like the impact mobo or bitspower vii hero/ranger block set.
> 
> Another question, is it possible to use rigid tubing on the sections where there isn't a need for flex tubing?
> I know it's possible but would it be advisable is someone wants to implement it into the loop upgrade.


I haven't heared if the pump fitting G1/4" adapter is available yet or not, but you will need it in order to run rigid tubing. A full cover block like EK or BP's Impact blocks and easily be swapped into the H220X in place of the stock Apogee XL waterblock, but the XL will give lower CPU temps than any other blocks currently available.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> I haven't heared if the pump fitting G1/4" adapter is available yet or not, but you will need it in order to run rigid tubing. A full cover block like EK or BP's Impact blocks and easily be swapped into the H220X in place of the stock Apogee XL waterblock, but the XL will give lower CPU temps than any other blocks currently available.


Maybe just maybe, swiftech will be making something of the sort.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Maybe just maybe, swiftech will be making something of the sort.


The adapter fitting will be coming out in the next week or so. We don't have any plans at this time to come out with a full cover block for ITX motherboards though.


----------



## v1ral

I was using the impact block as an example, but thanks for the quick response!!

On another note, prolly been asked before, any plans for a pump top for the new pump?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The adapter fitting will be coming out in the next week or so. We don't have any plans at this time to come out with a full cover block for ITX motherboards though.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I was using the impact block as an example, but thanks for the quick response!!
> 
> On another note, prolly been asked before, any plans for a pump top for the new pump?


We're considering a clear version of it at the moment. It hasn't been approved for production yet as we're still validating it.


----------



## VSG

Cat's finally out of the bag, huh?


----------



## v1ral

That's cool!!
I know those will sell like hot cakes when released..

Edit:
While I'm still here I have a question about installation of the h220x in the corsair air 540. With the rad installed up top will I be able to fit an rx360 v3 with it? Since the res/pump/rad are one unit and take up some space.
Thanks!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're considering a clear version of it at the moment. It hasn't been approved for production yet as we're still validating it.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I'm currently running my H220 using the provider splitter. I have an Asus Z97-AR motherboard and all the fan headers are PWM. I was using the splitter to make sure the pump is getting the proper amount of power. But now I want to use the splitter in my other computer. I would think it should be fine to run the pump off the cpu(PWM) header on the motherboard right?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'm currently running my H220 using the provider splitter. I have an Asus Z97-AR motherboard and all the fan headers are PWM. I was using the splitter to make sure the pump is getting the proper amount of power. But now I want to use the splitter in my other computer. I would think it should be fine to run the pump off the cpu(PWM) header on the motherboard right?


To be honest with, I really wouldn't suggest it. In looking over my data for the issues that we've had with these pumps it does appear that the majority of those with issues ran the pump directly off of the motherboard. There could be several reasons for this besides it being directly related to the motherboard, but for caution's sake I would continue using the splitter to power and regulate the speed of the pump.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> To be honest with, I really wouldn't suggest it. In looking over my data for the issues that we've had with these pumps it does appear that the majority of those with issues ran the pump directly off of the motherboard. There could be several reasons for this besides it being directly related to the motherboard, but for caution's sake I would continue using the splitter to power and regulate the speed of the pump.


Thanks, I'll continue to use the splitter. I already had one pump die on me. Don't want another.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Thanks, I'll continue to use the splitter. I already had one pump die on me. Don't want another.


that and splitters are way less than component failure lol


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that and splitters are way less than component failure lol


lol very true


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Thanks, I'll continue to use the splitter. I already had one pump die on me. Don't want another.


The splitters are available cheap on their website if you want to just get a second one. That is the most reasonable option IMO.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> The splitters are available cheap on their website if you want to just get a second one. That is the most reasonable option IMO.


Yeah I'll probably end up doing that.


----------



## Moonless

I didn't even know this club existed but I'm glad I found it now. I've had an h220 for about 7 months and the pump is making a terrible noise now that wasn't there when I first purchased it. I'm not sure if it's the air bubble problem listed in the OP. Even after I lift up the radiator it only goes away for about 5-10 minutes. Then the noise comes right back. I checked to see how much coolant was still in it and there's so much that I actually spilled some. I don't have a roomy case so it's not really possible for me to mount rad above the pump. Is there anything else I can do? It's extremely unsatisfying to have a liquid cpu cooler that's louder than both my GPU's when my pc is idle.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> I didn't even know this club existed but I'm glad I found it now. I've had an h220 for about 7 months and the pump is making a terrible noise now that wasn't there when I first purchased it. I'm not sure if it's the air bubble problem listed in the OP. Even after I lift up the radiator it only goes away for about 5-10 minutes. Then the noise comes right back. I checked to see how much coolant was still in it and there's so much that I actually spilled some. I don't have a roomy case so it's not really possible for me to mount rad above the pump. Is there anything else I can do? It's extremely unsatisfying to have a liquid cpu cooler that's louder than both my GPU's when my pc is idle.


If you've had the kit for 7 months then it's likely that it's just an air pocket. The issue with the coolant seeping out when you open it isn't indicative of the kit being full. Air takes up room just the way that coolant would. I suggest removing the radiator and giving it a good shake. You'll likely hear sloshing and thus indicate that the kit does indeed need to be topped off. Also, if the noise went away for a few minutes then it isn't mechanical or electrical. It would therefore have to be an issue an with an air pocket. Please follow the instructions in the OP for removing air and let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## Moonless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you've had the kit for 7 months then it's likely that it's just an air pocket. The issue with the coolant seeping out when you open it isn't indicative of the kit being full. Air takes up room just the way that coolant would. I suggest removing the radiator and giving it a good shake. You'll likely hear sloshing and thus indicate that the kit does indeed need to be topped off. Also, if the noise went away for a few minutes then it isn't mechanical or electrical. It would therefore have to be an issue an with an air pocket. Please follow the instructions in the OP for removing air and let me know if that resolves your issue.


I was trying the stuff in the OP as you suggested and I'm pretty sure my pump stopped working completely. Temps skyrocketted to 75º+ and the PC started auto shutting down from high temps. I did hear sloshing as you suggested but seeing as in the process my temps went crazy I'm not sure if I did something wrong or what. I just put another CPU cooler I had on. I have to go to work in a bit but I'm gonna test it again later and see if the pump is working or not.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> I was trying the stuff in the OP as you suggested and I'm pretty sure my pump stopped working completely. Temps skyrocketted to 75º+ and the PC started auto shutting down from high temps. I did hear sloshing as you suggested but seeing as in the process my temps went crazy I'm not sure if I did something wrong or what. I just put another CPU cooler I had on. I have to go to work in a bit but I'm gonna test it again later and see if the pump is working or not.


It's likely that a large enough air pocket was pulled into the pump and caused it seize up. All you need to do is the next time you go to power on the system, give the top of the pump a sharp slap. This will dislodge the air pocket and get your pump to run normally again. You'll still need to top off your radiator with some distilled water afterwards though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's likely that a large enough air pocket was pulled into the pump and caused it seize up. All you need to do is the next time you go to power on the system, give the top of the pump a sharp slap. This will dislodge the air pocket and get your pump to run normally again. You'll still need to top off your radiator with some distilled water afterwards though.


I've been saying for years if it doesn't work slap it... very rarely do I break it instead of it working lol

As an aside question how much rad space can the h220x push with low restriction loop? I.e two blocks and 10 fittings with extra 200ml res? Standard h220x sized tubing at full speed


----------



## Moonless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's likely that a large enough air pocket was pulled into the pump and caused it seize up. All you need to do is the next time you go to power on the system, give the top of the pump a sharp slap. This will dislodge the air pocket and get your pump to run normally again. You'll still need to top off your radiator with some distilled water afterwards though.


Interesting. Do you think it's possible my rad had so much air in it the water wasn't moving to the pump? I can't do anymore testing now but I certainly will give a good wallop later and report back. Thanks for you help so far.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> Interesting. Do you think it's possible my rad had so much air in it the water wasn't moving to the pump? I can't do anymore testing now but I certainly will give a good wallop later and report back. Thanks for you help so far.


No, I think that due to evaporation though there was a large enough of an air pocket that it managed to get stuck in your pump and cause it to seize up. Let me know if you're able to resolve your issue.


----------



## Blam

I bought my H220 in Nov 2013 and seems every 3 months it gets real noisy and I have to go through the process of dislodging air bubbles and topping up. Does this frequency seem about normal?

I have the rad in the top of the case with fill port facing up (as recommended). The block/pump however is rotated vertically so the inlet/outlet are top and bottom (I think inlet at bottom but cant remember which is which). Is vertical orientation ok or could it be the reason for the frequency of trapped air?

thanks


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'm currently running my H220 using the provider splitter. I have an Asus Z97-AR motherboard and all the fan headers are PWM. I was using the splitter to make sure the pump is getting the proper amount of power. But now I want to use the splitter in my other computer. I would think it should be fine to run the pump off the cpu(PWM) header on the motherboard right?


I would chime in and agree wtih Brian (BramSL1). From what we have seen in this thread from asus specifically that a few things happen with their "PWM" headers: 1) They are just 4 pin headers with a dummy pin; 2) they have a bios setting to actually make the PWM header function not as voltage control; 3) often have bios issues which prevent even correctly configured and set headers from using PWM to control the header; 4) might not supply enough power to the pump to prevent damage.

Many manufacturers have these issue, asus seems to be a worse offender in this thread because they do like to use 4pin voltage only headers, and they just plain sell a TON of motherboards.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blam*
> 
> I bought my H220 in Nov 2013 and seems every 3 months it gets real noisy and I have to go through the process of dislodging air bubbles and topping up. Does this frequency seem about normal?
> 
> I have the rad in the top of the case with fill port facing up (as recommended). The block/pump however is rotated vertically so the inlet/outlet are top and bottom (I think inlet at bottom but cant remember which is which). Is vertical orientation ok or could it be the reason for the frequency of trapped air?
> 
> thanks


I don't think that the orientation of the pump and water block could have anything to do with it. I'll have to ask our engineer about this though when he gets back in tomorrow morning. It could have something to do with the environment in which your system is kept. Is it particularly warm in the room where your system is? Evaporation is the main cause of these kinds of issues, but we've also seen that if the clamps on the fittings aren't tightened fully, air can also get in that way as well. I hope this helps to answer your question and resolve your issue.


----------



## Blam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is it particularly warm in the room where your system is? Evaporation is the main cause of these kinds of issues, but we've also seen that if the clamps on the fittings aren't tightened fully, air can also get in that way as well.


We've just come out winter so its actually been quite cold in the room. Though even in summer its not too bad since there's usually a decent breeze coming in through window from our backyard

I've not touched the clamps before but I'll check them out

Please post back when you hear from your engineer re the orientation

thanks


----------



## Theroty

I just want to give thanks to Bram for assisting me with my H220 issues. This is top notch customer support. I have been amazed at the service I am being provided and when I get around to expanding my loop I will definitely be using more of Swiftech's products!


----------



## VSG

Good to hear that


----------



## Moonless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, I think that due to evaporation though there was a large enough of an air pocket that it managed to get stuck in your pump and cause it to seize up. Let me know if you're able to resolve your issue.


Got some Distilled water on my way home and filled the pump back up attempting to get as much air out as I could. Pump is working and quite as the day I bought it again. Thanks so much for the help.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> That's cool!!
> I know those will sell like hot cakes when released..
> 
> Edit:
> While I'm still here I have a question about installation of the h220x in the corsair air 540. With the rad installed up top will I be able to fit an rx360 v3 with it? Since the res/pump/rad are one unit and take up some space.
> Thanks!!


I just measured mine for you. You'll have a about 2 3/4 inches of space between the h220x and the front of the case. I think your rad is about 2 1/4 inches. You'd probably have to remove the front dust filter and put the fans right behind the removable front grill (there is enough space to out the front grill back on with the fans mounted on the outside of the mount). But it will fit with the barbs on the bottom. You might lose the front HDD hot swap spot though.


----------



## v1ral

Removing the filter will be fine with me.
Going with the the h220x is by far the most cost effective way for starters, good job swiftech!!
*haters be hate'n*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> I just measured mine for you. You'll have a about 2 3/4 inches of space between the h220x and the front of the case. I think your rad is about 2 1/4 inches. You'd probably have to remove the front dust filter and put the fans right behind the removable front grill (there is enough space to out the front grill back on with the fans mounted on the outside of the mount). But it will fit with the barbs on the bottom. You might lose the front HDD hot swap spot though.


----------



## Streetdragon

i have a little question about the pwm splitter that comes with the h220x. When i connect the pump on the red place on the splitter, i can see on the motherboard the rpm of the pump right?

and when i connect the fans on the other places on the splitter..... is the fanspeed the same as the speed from the pump? or is it % the same. Means 100%= all at max speed, but different (pump at 3000rpm and fans at 1200rpm) ? or does the fans try to reach 3000rpm to and die?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i have a little question about the pwm splitter that comes with the h220x. When i connect the pump on the red place on the splitter, i can see on the motherboard the rpm of the pump right?
> 
> and when i connect the fans on the other places on the splitter..... is the fanspeed the same as the speed from the pump? or is it % the same. Means 100%= all at max speed, but different (pump at 3000rpm and fans at 1200rpm) ? or does the fans try to reach 3000rpm to and die?


Yes that's the pump speed you're seeing. And the speed of the fan is the % you have set. Not the rpm speed of the pump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Yes that's the pump speed you're seeing. And the speed of the fan is the % you have set. Not the rpm speed of the pump.


this is correct the speed scales and you can't control the fan speeds on that splitter independently as it only reads the 1 slot on the splitter and distributes according to the pwm port you have it ran to in this case cpu


----------



## icecpu

I got H220-X, first AIO cooler , why I don't see any coolant in the see through window at the pump ??


----------



## mcnumpty23

it should be there,though might be hard to see,if its not installed yet try tilting it while you are looking


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> it should be there,though might be hard to see,if its not installed yet try tilting it while you are looking


I already installed, when not install i didn't see any kind of liquid in there either


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I already installed, when not install i didn't see any kind of liquid in there either


The coolant is clear and so is the acrylic window. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I already installed, when not install i didn't see any kind of liquid in there either


whats your cpu temperatures like?

that will soon let you know if theres coolant in there--plus if it was empty your pump would know about it

though i seriously doubt that it would be empty-i think its near enough clear liquid and hard to see

though cant get a hold of one yet in the uk so i havent actually seen it myself

edited--bryan beat me to it


----------



## mcnumpty23

got my replacement h320 today

havent been able to install it yet

but just to say,,swiftech support is outstanding,,and bryan was also outstanding with his help

for me the support given by a company if you have a problem is the most important thing

and swiftech provided the best support ive ever had from a pc component manufacturer

i wouldnt hesitate to use their products again or recommend them


----------



## BramSLI1

For our European customers that have been anxiously awaiting the arrival of our H220X kits. These should be available from resellers in Europe starting in early October. So about two to three weeks from now these will be available in Europe.


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> whats your cpu temperatures like?
> 
> that will soon let you know if theres coolant in there--plus if it was empty your pump would know about it
> 
> though i seriously doubt that it would be empty-i think its near enough clear liquid and hard to see
> 
> though cant get a hold of one yet in the uk so i havent actually seen it myself
> 
> edited--bryan beat me to it


5820k @ 4.4 ghz 1.300v
Max temp 87 C , after aida64 stress test for 1 hr


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> 5820k @ 4.4 ghz 1.300v
> Max temp 87 C , after aida64 stress test for 1 hr


Looks good to me. Your processor would have shut itself off after about 30 seconds if there wasn't any coolant in the kit.


----------



## emsj86

So what do you think. Cpu fx 8350 oc to 5ghz never reaches 55 c. Gtx 780 sc acx ( soon to be water cooled with xspc razor. Glacer 240l with primochill clear with primo chill premix uv electric blue. Hyper x blue fury memory. Af and sp 120 fans. And my new blue icemodZ lights which I highly recommend 7 dollars free shipping. Next to paint the cover of the gtx 780 or watercool and get blue canble extensions


----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86

As you can see I had to flip the rad so the res. is facing down making hard to get rid of all the bubbles. Any hint to getting rid of the bubbles with it flipped. Also if I added an xspc 5.25 res. do I put it before or after the pump. It would be mount slightly higher than the pump


----------



## Dudewitbow

why did you have to flip the rad around for?


----------



## mwsantos88256

Has anyone removed the barb fittings from the H220X CPU block? I just picked up some monsoon compression fittings and I was curious if removing the barbs from the block is a hassle I should be prepared for. I know its G1/4 threaded, but I don't know how tightly locked down the barb fitting is.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Has anyone removed the barb fittings from the H220X CPU block? I just picked up some monsoon compression fittings and I was curious if removing the barbs from the block is a hassle I should be prepared for. I know its G1/4 threaded, but I don't know how tightly locked down the barb fitting is.


It was easy, it requires a lil more force than normal but nothing over the top.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> why did you have to flip the rad around for?


To mount the sp120 fans so you could see them. With the lip on the res bi couldn't close the top panel


----------



## emsj86

Is there a way to fully bleed the h220 or glacer 240l if the radiator reservoir is facing upside down. Also anyone recommend a cheap reservoir probably have to be a 5.25 bay in order to be mounted above the pump )since the pump is on the cpu)


----------



## VSG

Not directly related other than the pump being on the H220-x but here are some pictures from the mcp50x pump:













So glad they have all black wiring with SATA for power now. Full review will be done soon- if there is anything in particular you guys wanted to know, let me know and I will try my best. I have also a D5 and 2 DDC pumps for comparison. Thanks a lot to @BramSLI1 for these


----------



## BramSLI1

Varun, once you're finished with the review we'll be sharing it on our Facebook page. I can't wait to see how these compare to our MCP35X2 unit.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can't wait to see how these compare to our MCP35X2 unit.


You and me both! I thought I was all set to do the tests this weekend and then I saw this:
Quote:


> We're writing to let you know there was a transit delay and the delivery of your package may be delayed by 1 - 2 days. UPS will deliver the package as soon as possible. We're very sorry about this unavoidable delay and we appreciate your patience.
> 
> September 18, 2014, 3:00 am, Hodgkins IL US Delay in delivery due to external factors


Ah well, stuff happens.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You and me both! I thought I was all set to do the tests this weekend and then I saw this:
> Ah well, stuff happens.


That sucks! I hate it when that kind of stuff happens.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

I posted this question on the Swiftech forum, Bryan didn't have an answer but possibly someone else over here might.

I've been using a MCR 320 Drive for some years now and i may possibly buy stuff for a new x99 setup soon, i doubt i'll use the cooler any longer as i find the pump rather noisy and would like something much quieter. I could try the H220x (obviously losing some cooling performance) but i'm wondering how much quieter the pump would be set at say 50% or so, because i'd likely replace the fans with 2 Scythe GT's at 1150rpm anyway. If possible i'd prefer not to be able to hear the pump over those fans and i'm not completely sure that is possible with the H220x due to the way the pump is mounted etc.. which means i'd have to go full custom water cooling, which i'm not sure i can be bothered to mess around with too much.

From what i've found, it seems only decoupled pumps in a custom loop would achieve what i am after, but i want simplicity as well as great cooling and silence. Is there a way to have both?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Can the h220x be mounted res pump on bottom in vertical orientation? I ran into a snag installing this 280 mm rad which will force me to relocate the h220x I can see it shows ok to mount it with the face of res facing back of case so I would assume with face facing left side would be OK as well?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Can the h220x be mounted res pump on bottom in vertical orientation? I ran into a snag installing this 280 mm rad which will force me to relocate the h220x I can see it shows ok to mount it with the face of res facing back of case so I would assume with face facing left side would be OK as well?


I'm having a difficult time understanding you. Will the pump and reservoir be on top of the radiator or underneath it? If it's going to be underneath it then it will be fine. You can't mount the radiator with the pump and reservoir on top though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm having a difficult time understanding you. Will the pump and reservoir be on top of the radiator or underneath it? If it's going to be underneath it then it will be fine. You can't mount the radiator with the pump and reservoir on top though.


you answered me even though you didn't fully understand I will post a picture for clarification but I think it'll work just fine


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you answered me even though you didn't fully understand I will post a picture for clarification but I think it'll work just fine


That will work fine. The only orientation that doesn't work is to have the pump and reservoir mounted on top of the radiator in a horizontal position.


----------



## Blam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blam*
> 
> I've not touched the clamps before but I'll check them out


Checked and clamps seemed secure enough. Regardless, seems like my H220 is on its way out....

Over last few days I noticed the pump getting extremely loud under load and PC crashing regularly so checked CPU temps. At idle they were 15-20C higher than normal. Under load (playing BF4) temps were ~10C higher

So went through the process of removing air bubbles, reapplying thermal paste etc.. still noisy, same temps. Repeated a couple more times but no change. Decided to pull out the antec 620 cooler from my spare PC, hooked it up and immediately temps back to normal. So think I'm going to RMA via the retailer


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blam*
> 
> Checked and clamps seemed secure enough. Regardless, seems like my H220 is on its way out....
> 
> Over last few days I noticed the pump getting extremely loud under load and PC crashing regularly so checked CPU temps. At idle they were 15-20C higher than normal. Under load (playing BF4) temps were ~10C higher
> 
> So went through the process of removing air bubbles, reapplying thermal paste etc.. still noisy, same temps. Repeated a couple more times but no change. Decided to pull out the antec 620 cooler from my spare PC, hooked it up and immediately temps back to normal. So think I'm going to RMA via the retailer


I'm sorry to hear about this. Have you checked to see if the issue is just an air pocket that keeps getting pulled through the pump? That would be the most likely cause of this type of issue.


----------



## Blam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you checked to see if the issue is just an air pocket that keeps getting pulled through the pump?


It could be but I've already spent a few hours trying so not sure how else to go about it. I followed the steps you emailed me in Jan this year which I successfully applied a couple of times earlier this year.

Well, weekend coming up so will give it another go

thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not directly related other than the pump being on the H220-x but here are some pictures from the mcp50x pump:
> 
> So glad they have all black wiring with SATA for power now. Full review will be done soon- if there is anything in particular you guys wanted to know, let me know and I will try my best. I have also a D5 and 2 DDC pumps for comparison. Thanks a lot to @BramSLI1 for these


Do you have MCP35X/35X2 to compare to? Never used either but really curious how the sound compares at same RPM's/flow. My buddy in Cali has an MCP50X he says it's really quiet.


----------



## VSG

Yup, have 2 mcp35x pumps as well as an mcp35x2 top and also have a D5 Vario incoming on Monday (I was told it was a D5 Strong but unfortunately not).


----------



## M3TAl

Lol, that was a fast response time.


----------



## VSG

Definitely stalking you


----------



## emsj86

For the h220 if I put a reservior that would be below the cpu block/pump would it be able to be bleed out or is it not worth it unless I can go above the pump


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Well I had an interesting 5 hours yesterday trying to fit the 280 rad with the h220x that was a no go up top with the mounting holes included so it's on the bottom beside the psu...anyhow they are plumbed in and I think I've done it correctly rear of pump connected to return from the 280 front side connected to cpu block then block to 280....I'm going to fill tonight after work and do the bump the pump method to fill the loop until I can afford fittings for a proper drain/fill setup... my question is the pump will probably run full speed as I have no way of lowering speed right now how fast will this pump void the res...I would think within a second or so...so literally flip psu on then immediately back off?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Well I had an interesting 5 hours yesterday trying to fit the 280 rad with the h220x that was a no go up top with the mounting holes included so it's on the bottom beside the psu...anyhow they are plumbed in and I think I've done it correctly rear of pump connected to return from the 280 front side connected to cpu block then block to 280....I'm going to fill tonight after work and do the bump the pump method to fill the loop until I can afford fittings for a proper drain/fill setup... my question is the pump will probably run full speed as I have no way of lowering speed right now how fast will this pump void the res...I would think within a second or so...so literally flip psu on then immediately back off?


I can help you with this. I've expanded one of these myself. The pump doesn't void the reservoir as fast as you'd think. You will need to keep an eye on it though when you're filling the loop and bleeding the air out of it. That's the best way to ensure that the pump doesn't suck on air for more than a second or two. Any longer than that and it will begin to grind due to excess friction.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can help you with this. I've expanded one of these myself. The pump doesn't void the reservoir as fast as you'd think. You will need to keep an eye on it though when you're filling the loop and bleeding the air out of it. That's the best way to ensure that the pump doesn't suck on air for more than a second or two. Any longer than that and it will begin to grind due to excess friction.


ok thanks a lot I was hoping it wouldn't be instantaneous...I'm really glad I went with this case had it not been so modular I would've been buying new smaller rads or modding it like crazy I decided not to mount in that vertical orientation as the mounts didn't line up with chosen fan on the bottom 280 but it would've made short tubing runs...I get to redo a decent portion in a month or so anyway for drain fill setup.... does the coolant in the h220x have a biocide additive? I'm going to reuse what i got out of it with plain distilled for the excess just wondering if I need to add some biocide


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> ok thanks a lot I was hoping it wouldn't be instantaneous...I'm really glad I went with this case had it not been so modular I would've been buying new smaller rads or modding it like crazy I decided not to mount in that vertical orientation as the mounts didn't line up with chosen fan on the bottom 280 but it would've made short tubing runs...I get to redo a decent portion in a month or so anyway for drain fill setup.... does the coolant in the h220x have a biocide additive? I'm going to reuse what i got out of it with plain distilled for the excess just wondering if I need to add some biocide


Yes, our coolant in these kits does have a biocide additive. You can add distilled water to it without an issue.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, our coolant in these kits does have a biocide additive. You can add distilled water to it without an issue.


thanks for everything... a lot of companies need hardware reps like swiftech


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> I posted this question on the Swiftech forum, Bryan didn't have an answer but possibly someone else over here might.
> 
> I've been using a MCR 320 Drive for some years now and i may possibly buy stuff for a new x99 setup soon, i doubt i'll use the cooler any longer as i find the pump rather noisy and would like something much quieter. I could try the H220x (obviously losing some cooling performance) but i'm wondering how much quieter the pump would be set at say 50% or so, because i'd likely replace the fans with 2 Scythe GT's at 1150rpm anyway. If possible i'd prefer not to be able to hear the pump over those fans and i'm not completely sure that is possible with the H220x due to the way the pump is mounted etc.. which means i'd have to go full custom water cooling, which i'm not sure i can be bothered to mess around with too much.
> 
> From what i've found, it seems only decoupled pumps in a custom loop would achieve what i am after, but i want simplicity as well as great cooling and silence. Is there a way to have both?


Bump on this, if anyone has a good answer or solution


----------



## emsj86

So honest opinion should I a: keep 240l and get a gtx 780 waterblock (would my 250mm rad be enough for mild oc on both cpu and gpu) b: same as above but get a 360 rad c: same as a and b but get a 240 to have duel 240mm or d: get a custom pump and cpu block.


----------



## Dudewitbow

depends on how low of a temp you want. when adding a gpu to a cpu block without radiators, note that GPU temperatures drop drastically regardless at the cost of cpu(still bearable, but higher than cpu alone of course). For more accurate measures of temperature, look for users using a h220 inside the MCase N1 users(they only have room for 240mm radiator) who cools both CPU and GPU and ask for their temps. just estimate yours to be slightly lower than theirs because their case has low air flow.

as for changing for a 360 rad vs 240 + 240, I personally like the 2x240mm option because you'd have more radiator room(unless you meant 240 + 360) as well as if you ever decided on switching cases, swapping out for 240mm + 240m would be easier than having a 360mm due to the fact that not all cases support 360mm, but support 240mm

im for adding on the 240mm radiator if you can afford it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Well bram much thanks to you again.. i got loop refilled and everything reconnected and checked for leaks and bled pretty well with the pump at full speed i have a few air bubbles but they are on the small side just get a little churn now and again will sort that out when i get a second res and fill/drain setup... temps are way better than before probably due to better mount and more rad space but.. heres what i got on a few moments i had to stress it... gotta be up in five hours so quick test before bed












these were at 4.4ghz 1.34v 2400nb 1866 ram a cl9 timing.... suprised at how low max temp was even though i know it will be a bit higher after 10 or 20 runs but.. very satisfied and this pump puts out like a champ


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not directly related other than the pump being on the H220-x but here are some pictures from the mcp50x pump:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glad they have all black wiring with SATA for power now. Full review will be done soon- if there is anything in particular you guys wanted to know, let me know and I will try my best. I have also a D5 and 2 DDC pumps for comparison. Thanks a lot to @BramSLI1 for these


Can you let me know how much noise you get from those things? I Just got one with a 35x res and its not as quiet as the pump I thats in my H220x. I'm not sure if a stuck air bubble or a bad unit.


----------



## VSG

Sure thing!


----------



## emsj86

Just overclocked and unlocked my gtx 780 sc acx bios. Running max temp 64 on air 1300mhz core clock. Skynet bios works great. Now to water cool and get this thing on par with 780ti.


----------



## Feyris

Thinking of a H220X for 3770k + 7990. Running stock cpu speed, what kind of stuff am I looking at getting off stock setup if anyones tried. I would keep the 7990 on its own 240MM Rad but CPU is on H100i and that cannot be bottom mounted, and h220x cannot be bottom mounted (unless someone knows of an AIO like this that CAN be)

Hows perf, leakage, etc

Swiftech told me you can add more than one rad onto the unit but I would also need another (pump?) or something or other. either way I have a ton of clearance on the top of case if I did need to pancake stuff together but H220X looks awesome or I could be a lunatic and go Top > Rad(h100i) > Fans > Rad (h220x) > Fans if thats even viable....


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Thinking of a H220X for 3770k + 7990. Running stock cpu speed, what kind of stuff am I looking at getting off stock setup if anyones tried. I would keep the 7990 on its own 240MM Rad but CPU is on H100i and that cannot be bottom mounted, and h220x cannot be bottom mounted (unless someone knows of an AIO like this that CAN be)
> 
> Hows perf, leakage, etc
> 
> Swiftech told me you can add more than one rad onto the unit but I would also need another (pump?) or something or other. either way I have a ton of clearance on the top of case if I did need to pancake stuff together but H220X looks awesome or I could be a lunatic and go Top > Rad(h100i) > Fans > Rad (h220x) > Fans if thats even viable....


From everything I've read the pump has no issues at all handling an expanded loop. I'm going to be adding a 200mm rad and my gpu to my setup soon and I'm not expecting any issues or disappointments.


----------



## emsj86

Added a single bay xspc reservoir figured help with bubbles I'm very disappointed seems to work better with out it. What a waste. And I double checked that I have the inlet from the rad. The outlet going to the I. Of the pump and it's a few inches higher than the cpu/ pump block yet still bubbles res. is full what gives


----------



## Dudewitbow

is the res the top most part of the loop, air bubbles arent entirely forcibly sucked out after draining and refilling it. Thats one of the time consuming parts. Its the same logic as air pockets under water. You only can really get rid of them by making sure everything is filled entirely for sure. Usually rotating case helps


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Can you let me know how much noise you get from those things? I Just got one with a 35x res and its not as quiet as the pump I thats in my H220x. I'm not sure if a stuck air bubble or a bad unit.


Well the max RPM is 4500 RPM I believe so 3000 RPM vs 4500 RPM. With both at 3000 RPM I'd expect them to be virtually the same. My buddy has one with 35x res and his was a little noisy at first but after it was all bled he says it's real quiet.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Since i've had no responses to my past question, i'm wondering whether to chance getting the H220x or just get a big air cooler instead.. I really need to know the decibels on the pump if set at a slow speed, if the pump literally is inaudible over 1,000 rpm fans i wouldn't hesitate but there is no data around about it.

Could someone with low speed fans in the 1,000-1200 rpm range set their pump to like 50% or 30% or something and report back whether the pump is still louder than the fans? Would be much appreciated.


----------



## ironhide138

Anyone put a H220x in an nzxt h440? Got any picks? Also, any chance of a h320x? Maybe with the pump/Res in the middle ?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Since i've had no responses to my past question, i'm wondering whether to chance getting the H220x or just get a big air cooler instead.. I really need to know the decibels on the pump if set at a slow speed, if the pump literally is inaudible over 1,000 rpm fans i wouldn't hesitate but there is no data around about it.
> 
> Could someone with low speed fans in the 1,000-1200 rpm range set their pump to like 50% or 30% or something and report back whether the pump is still louder than the fans? Would be much appreciated.


I have corsair sp120s on the h220x in a fractal r4 case and I can't hear the pump at all when I idle. Around 1800 rpms on the pump at idle


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well the max RPM is 4500 RPM I believe so 3000 RPM vs 4500 RPM. With both at 3000 RPM I'd expect them to be virtually the same. My buddy has one with 35x res and his was a little noisy at first but after it was all bled he says it's real quiet.


Well, I set the bios fan duty to silent and I'll just let it run for a few days straight to see if it clears up. Worse case scenario I RMA it.


----------



## M3TAl

How loud is it? What kind of noise? Can you post an audio clip?


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I have corsair sp120s on the h220x in a fractal r4 case and I can't hear the pump at all when I idle. Around 1800 rpms on the pump at idle


Thanks, what speed are those corsair sp120's?


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How loud is it? What kind of noise? Can you post an audio clip?


I'll find a way to later tonight after work. Its got a loud whine to it at speeds comparable to the one in the H220x. I changed the bios to 20% at 30C and curve up to 50% and 60C. Quieter now, but it does have a distinct clicking noise from it. *shrugs* works great otherwise.


----------



## Nightwing95

Would it be a bad idea to change out the color plate on the H220X waterblock while it's still mounted on the CPU or should I take it off the CPU and then change it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwing95*
> 
> Would it be a bad idea to change out the color plate on the H220X waterblock while it's still mounted on the CPU or should I take it off the CPU and then change it?


You can do that. You just need to be careful when doing so because it can be easy to drop and lose the posts that hold on the top acrylic plate.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Added a single bay xspc reservoir figured help with bubbles I'm very disappointed seems to work better with out it. What a waste. And I double checked that I have the inlet from the rad. The outlet going to the I. Of the pump and it's a few inches higher than the cpu/ pump block yet still bubbles res. is full what gives


I don't know what you did wrong, maybe post a pic. I just sold both my 770s and bought a 980 so I broke my loop down today to remove them. Filling it back up and bleeding it was so easy with my EK res (which is at the bottom of my loop). It takes a little while longer for the bubbles to make it to the res, but they do. Fill the loop with the H220X fill plug and then seal it. Then use the other res to allow air to escape and to top off the loop. If you manage to get it so the res is above the pump you could use it to fill the entire loop, but that would be difficult unless you have a 900D. My setup is different because I use two pumps...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> is the res the top most part of the loop, air bubbles arent entirely forcibly sucked out after draining and refilling it. Thats one of the time consuming parts. Its the same logic as air pockets under water. You only can really get rid of them by making sure everything is filled entirely for sure. Usually rotating case helps


Well it is higher by 2 inches only bc it's hard to mount anything higher than the pump since it's on the cpu. I was able to bleed it by rotating and leaving it on it's back side and top. But that's how I did it before without it I thought it would make it easier which it did not


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I don't know what you did wrong, maybe post a pic. I just sold both my 770s and bought a 980 so I broke my loop down today to remove them. Filling it back up and bleeding it was so easy with my EK res (which is at the bottom of my loop). It takes a little while longer for the bubbles to make it to the res, but they do. Fill the loop with the H220X fill plug and then seal it. Then use the other res to allow air to escape and to top off the loop. If you manage to get it so the res is above the pump you could use it to fill the entire loop, but that would be difficult unless you have a 900D. My setup is different because I use two pumps...


Well I have a glacer 240l the only res so it doesn't have the res like the h220x. I wanted to get a nice big res but thought it would only cause problems being lower than the pump.


----------



## emsj86

I actually just bought a 780 water block and debating on getting a 360 it a 240 to go with my 240 allready. My main issue with 360 is the bend I. The tubing / rotating if have to do which would make it look not as nice as the 240 would. With the 240 it would go straight to res in than outlet to cpu/pump to the gpu than to 240 front of the case than back to the top. 240 mainly all straight runs. The. 360 fittings would sit over the bays causing me to have to cross tubing


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Do you have MCP35X/35X2 to compare to? Never used either but really curious how the sound compares at same RPM's/flow. My buddy in Cali has an MCP50X he says it's really quiet.


I can attest to you that this thing is super quiet.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I can attest to you that this thing is super quiet.


Might be something wrong with mwsantos88256's pump. My friend's is pretty much silent too, talking to him right now actually.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Thats a short video of the pump noise. I can take another if needed. Its using the swiftech PWM splitter and the cpu fan is set to the asus mobo standard cpu fan profile. The pump is running as the pc idles. At the 7 second mark I start to run prime95 on small fft. The video is taken from aobut 2 inches away from the pump, so it sounds alot louder than it is. In a quiet room I can clearly hear it from about 10 feet away. The clicking in the beginning is audible from about 1 foot away with the case panel on. Im only concerned about it because the pump on the h220x was pretty much inaudible under load with the same settings. Could be me being paranoid. I'm using XSPC EC6 premix fluid if that matters at all.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a short video of the pump noise. I can take another if needed. Its using the swiftech PWM splitter and the cpu fan is set to the asus mobo standard cpu fan profile. The pump is running as the pc idles. At the 7 second mark I start to run prime95 on small fft. The video is taken from aobut 2 inches away from the pump, so it sounds alot louder than it is. In a quiet room I can clearly hear it from about 10 feet away. The clicking in the beginning is audible from about 1 foot away with the case panel on. Im only concerned about it because the pump on the h220x was pretty much inaudible under load with the same settings. Could be me being paranoid. I'm using XSPC EC6 premix fluid if that matters at all.


when I first booted up the loop it made a loud noise but once the loop was filled I really haven't heard a peep from it since.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a short video of the pump noise. I can take another if needed. Its using the swiftech PWM splitter and the cpu fan is set to the asus mobo standard cpu fan profile. The pump is running as the pc idles. At the 7 second mark I start to run prime95 on small fft. The video is taken from aobut 2 inches away from the pump, so it sounds alot louder than it is. In a quiet room I can clearly hear it from about 10 feet away. The clicking in the beginning is audible from about 1 foot away with the case panel on. Im only concerned about it because the pump on the h220x was pretty much inaudible under load with the same settings. Could be me being paranoid. I'm using XSPC EC6 premix fluid if that matters at all.


The video is private, can't view it. Make it unlisted or public.


----------



## mwsantos88256

DOH, it should be public now.


----------



## M3TAl

So it clicks at idle then as you start P95 the clicking stops? Definitely isn't supposed to be clicking like that.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Thats correct. Its just loud once running prime. I kinda figured that clicking wasnt supposed to be there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwsantos88256*
> 
> Thats correct. Its just loud once running prime. I kinda figured that clicking wasnt supposed to be there.


The clicking noise could just be air. Where is the pump located in your loop and where is it in relation to your reservoir?


----------



## M3TAl

Think he's using the Swiftech 35x res that sits right on the pump.


----------



## mwsantos88256

Correct, 35x res seated to the pump with the threaded screw that came with the res. The pump is located in an Air 540 on the psu side under ODD rack (which is removed).


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I actually just bought a 780 water block and debating on getting a 360 it a 240 to go with my 240 allready. My main issue with 360 is the bend I. The tubing / rotating if have to do which would make it look not as nice as the 240 would. With the 240 it would go straight to res in than outlet to cpu/pump to the gpu than to 240 front of the case than back to the top. 240 mainly all straight runs. The. 360 fittings would sit over the bays causing me to have to cross tubing


240mm will be plenty, even if your OCing. I was running a i5 4670 (4.7 @1.285V) and two OCed 770s on the H220X and a 240mm x 54mm rad and temps were very good (770s never went over 56C in stress tests). I have since switched to a single 980 (for now) and am waiting for EK to release the full cover block. If you had two 780s or are planning to get another then maybe a 360mm would be better to adapt. But a single 780 would do fine with a pair of 240mm rads, especially if your case has good flow. Just try to get as thick a rad as you can and use decent fans and the temps will be great.

I misunderstood your earlier post about the reservoir. I had suggested to some other members that adding an extra res to the H220X will help with bleeding and topping off the loop. Vs using the H220X fill port and bleed screw. I have done it now 4 times using an extra pump/res and it is very easy. The air does take a while (24-36 hours) to be fully purged, but it works great.


----------



## Woesty420

Hey Bram,

I have my h220x coming this week says the retailer, so I was wondering if the adapter for the 1/2" ID tubing is ready to be sold yet?

Looking to upgrade the tubing to 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD and fill with some Mayhems Pastel Green coolant.

Also, will the h220x be fine with the Pastel coolant?


----------



## emsj86

Just order compression fittings, clear tube, pastel blue, 240mm radiator. Very excited for this weekend. Going to have glacer 240 l with two 240mm rad, my new ek 780 water block, 5.25 bay res and all sp120 fans. Question bc I have three exhaust. And will have two 120 intake 1 200mm (or two 140mm depending what I like) us one 120 drive bay that helps the 200mm push. My question is does a 200mm fan count as 2 intakes seeing it takes up and pushes as much air as 2 120? If it does than if have 4 intake and 3 exhaust. Trying to keep dust down but like the sp120 look as exhaust


----------



## emsj86

what's the name of that valve fitting everywhere I look or try to find it only quick disconnects come up. I'm calling it a **** off drain valve. I want a 3/8 one for my system for draining the loop without having to have coolant in he drain tube unless in actually draining


----------



## orndorf77

will my swiftech h220x performance drop after the 3 year warranty if I don't refill it ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> what's the name of that valve fitting everywhere I look or try to find it only quick disconnects come up. I'm calling it a **** off drain valve. I want a 3/8 one for my system for draining the loop without having to have coolant in he drain tube unless in actually draining


Your should be able to find these listed under drain/ fill ports on either FrozenCPU or Performance PCs.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> will my swiftech h220x performance drop after the 3 year warranty if I don't refill it ?


Yes, in fact it could start dropping in performance before that depending on the environment and conditions that the kit are present in. In other words if the kit is being used in a heavy heat load or warm environment then evaporation could set in much more quickly than the three years mentioned on the box. The clear reservoir will allow you the ability to monitor this and know when to top off the coolant.


----------



## Emu105

Guys i have my cooler inside my case hasbnt been used for about 3-4 months H220 that is if i build my rig again will i have any problems with the cooler working? Its inside a box and the case is in it and the cooler is still mounted on top of the case will it matter?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> Guys i have my cooler inside my case hasbnt been used for about 3-4 months H220 that is if i build my rig again will i have any problems with the cooler working? Its inside a box and the case is in it and the cooler is still mounted on top of the case will it matter?


I don't see why your h220 wouldn't work . it should be fine


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, in fact it could start dropping in performance before that depending on the environment and conditions that the kit are present in. In other words if the kit is being used in a heavy heat load or warm environment then evaporation could set in much more quickly than the three years mentioned on the box. The clear reservoir will allow you the ability to monitor this and know when to top off the coolant.


I watched a video on youtube.com with Gabriel Rouchon showing how to do vga expansion on the swiftech h220 is doing a vga expansion on the h220x basically the same thing ?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, in fact it could start dropping in performance before that depending on the environment and conditions that the kit are present in. In other words if the kit is being used in a heavy heat load or warm environment then evaporation could set in much more quickly than the three years mentioned on the box. The clear reservoir will allow you the ability to monitor this and know when to top off the coolant.


If a top-off is done, do we have to bleed things? or just screw the cap back on and go back to fun?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I watched a video on youtube.com with Gabriel Rouchon showing how to do vga expansion on the swiftech h220 is doing a vga expansion on the h220x basically the same thing ?


That's me in the video and yes, it's essentially the same process.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> If a top-off is done, do we have to bleed things? or just screw the cap back on and go back to fun?


You may also need to bleed it.


----------



## Woesty420

Just received my Swiftech h220x, not very happy with how it came packaged. Massive and I mean massive kink in the hose from out of the box!! Cannot straighten it at all, there is no way I can install it like this! Was planning on switching out tubing to half inch ID tubing, which I can't because the adapter isn't out yet and now I won't even be able to use it till then! Waited a month since it was supposed to come and now I can't even use it.... *Kind of pissed!*


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> Just received my Swiftech h220x, not very happy with how it came packaged. Massive and I mean massive kink in the hose from out of the box!! Cannot straighten it at all, there is no way I can install it like this! Was planning on switching out tubing to half inch ID tubing, which I can't because the adapter isn't out yet and now I won't even be able to use it till then! Waited a month since it was supposed to come and now I can't even use it.... *Kind of pissed!*


My h220 was kinked like that, but count it a blessing because of the plasticizer in the included tube. Mine went unopened for a year and the build up in the tube was horrid. EKZMTFTW


----------



## orndorf77

i never did a custom loop before and i don't know any thing about the fittings and parts i would need that is compatible with the h220x . I want to expand my h220x to cool x2 evga gtx 780's in sli . I would like to use a 360mm radiator and my max budget is $500 . can some one put together a sli expansion setup and everything I would need that will work with the h220x that cost under $500 ? my case is a corsair air 540 . thanks i would really appreciate it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> Just received my Swiftech h220x, not very happy with how it came packaged. Massive and I mean massive kink in the hose from out of the box!! Cannot straighten it at all, there is no way I can install it like this! Was planning on switching out tubing to half inch ID tubing, which I can't because the adapter isn't out yet and now I won't even be able to use it till then! Waited a month since it was supposed to come and now I can't even use it.... *Kind of pissed!*


I'm very sorry about this. We inspect all of these here before they're shipped out. I really don't know how that was missed. I already received your email and sent you instructions to start the RMA process.


----------



## orndorf77

on my swiftech h220x radiator there is about 12 fins in a row together that are slanted side ways . at first glance the fins look so slanted that they look damaged but looking closer at the fins they are are not scratched chipped or squished together so I don't think the fins would be considered damaged it is just that they are on a angle while all the other fins are straight . air is able to pass threw the section of the radiator with the slanted fins just not as well as the air is passing threw the rest of the radiator . should I try straightening out those slanted fins ? and are these slanted fins hindering my h220x's performance ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> on my swiftech h220x radiator there is about 12 fins in a row together that are slanted side ways . at first glance the fins look so slanted that they look damaged but looking closer at the fins they are are not scratched chipped or squished together so I don't think the fins would be considered damaged it is just that they are on a angle while all the other fins are straight . air is able to pass threw the section of the radiator with the slanted fins just not as well as the air is passing threw the rest of the radiator . should I try straightening out those slanted fins ? and are these slanted fins hindering my h220x's performance ?


You might have bumped it up against something while installing it in your case. Those fins are very delicate, but can be corrected with a pair of needle nose pliers, or a small flat head screw driver. Just don't use a lot of force when bending them back and have a steady hand. You don't want to bend them back and forth too much and you don't want to puncture the water channel on each side.

It likely isn't effecting performance at all, but I am anal about things like that. It would bother me to no end if I noticed it and didn't do anything about it. You might be different than me though...


----------



## mauinho

Dear Swiftech,

When can we expect H220X in this side of the pond? I'm sure plenty of costumers in Europe would like to buy your product but no ETA known or prices or any sort of info ... Can you let us know if it will happen or do I have to import it from the US?
I'm based in the UK btw.
Best regards.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> You might have bumped it up against something while installing it in your case. Those fins are very delicate, but can be corrected with a pair of needle nose pliers, or a small flat head screw driver. Just don't use a lot of force when bending them back and have a steady hand. You don't want to bend them back and forth too much and you don't want to puncture the water channel on each side.
> 
> It likely isn't effecting performance at all, but I am anal about things like that. It would bother me to no end if I noticed it and didn't do anything about it. You might be different than me though...


I cant see the slanted fins because I have 3 fans on my h220x radiator I am just worried about any performance lost because my temps on my i7 4790k are 2c hotter with the swiftech h220x then when I had my corsair h100i i used the same thermal paste on both coolers i remounted my swiftech h220x 2 times . and the temps i was getting with my h100i were better . my temps are still good with the h220x because i have my i7 4790k delidid .


----------



## emsj86

On a all water cooled setup with all areas having filters is have more exhaust really that bad. I ask bc for looks I have an af140 as rear exhaust 2 sp120 as top exhaust on a 240mm rad and this weekend when I add my gtx 780 waterblock I m gonna mount a 240 on the bottom and was thinking it would look good having then as exhaust to see the 2 sp130 that will be on it. For Intake I would have 2 140 and 1 120 hard drive cage fan


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I cant see the slanted fins because I have 3 fans on my h220x radiator I am just worried about any performance lost because my temps on my i7 4790k are 2c hotter with the swiftech h220x then when I had my corsair h100i i used the same thermal paste on both coolers i remounted my swiftech h220x 2 times . and the temps i was getting with my h100i were better . my temps are still good with the h220x because i have my i7 4790k delidid .


The fins shouldn't impact your temps. I also just upgraded to the H220X from the H100I and saw my load temps drop 4C. I'm currently using Tim Mate 2 that came with the 220x. Check your Block orientation. How it is mounted in relation to the core can make a small temp difference.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> The fins shouldn't impact your temps. I also just upgraded to the H220X from the H100I and saw my load temps drop 4C. I'm currently using Tim Mate 2 that came with the 220x. Check your Block orientation. How it is mounted in relation to the core can make a small temp difference.


I am using cool laboratory liquid pro the same that I used on my corsair h100i . the thing that is different in my build is I am now using a corsair air 540 case and when I had the h100i I was using a thermaltake overseer rx-1 case .


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> The fins shouldn't impact your temps. I also just upgraded to the H220X from the H100I and saw my load temps drop 4C. I'm currently using Tim Mate 2 that came with the 220x. Check your Block orientation. How it is mounted in relation to the core can make a small temp difference.


Seeing your post just occured to me m h220x didnt have tim in it lol... no matter i bought antec diamond 7


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Dear Swiftech,
> 
> When can we expect H220X in this side of the pond? I'm sure plenty of costumers in Europe would like to buy your product but no ETA known or prices or any sort of info ... Can you let us know if it will happen or do I have to import it from the US?
> I'm based in the UK btw.
> Best regards.


In about two weeks these will be available in Europe.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Hi guys and ST rep BramSLI1,

This product enticed me cause of its expandability.

I'm hesitant in building a custom loop at the moment so this would be a good choice without limiting myself in the near future.

In addition to cooling the cpu, will this be able to water cool a 970/980 or whenever big maxwell comes out?

Is it really as easy as getting a GPU water block from EK, fittings and tubes paired with another radiator (e.g. 120mm or 140mm)?

Thanks.

Will continue doing some reading on water cooling.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Hi guys and ST rep BramSLI1,
> 
> This product enticed me cause of its expandability.
> 
> I'm hesitant in building a custom loop at the moment so this would be a good choice without limiting myself in the near future.
> 
> In addition to cooling the cpu, will this be able to water cool a 970/980 or whenever big maxwell comes out?
> 
> Is it really as easy as getting a GPU water block from EK, fittings and tubes paired with another radiator (e.g. 120mm or 140mm)?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Will continue doing some reading on water cooling.


In a word, yes, it can be that easy. It does depend on a few factors though. One of those is the ambient temperature of the environment that the system is kept in. How good the air flow in the case is. Also, what kind of overclocking is done on the components and the subsequent heat load that they produce.

All of these factors will come into play in determining whether or not it really is as simple as just added the parts you mentioned. Research is something that you can't afford to skimp on when planning out how to get the most out of your water cooling system.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Even though i've been mainly against it, i'm awaiting an ordered H220x .. It seems i may be able to get the pump noise down to pretty much the same level as 1000rpm fans but only if i run the pump at its slowest speed possible. Hopefully i won't be disappointed, i can always sell it if i'm not happy i guess.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In a word, yes, it can be that easy. It does depend on a few factors though. One of those is the ambient temperature of the environment that the system is kept in. How good the air flow in the case is. Also, what kind of overclocking is done on the components and the subsequent heat load that they produce.
> 
> All of these factors will come into play in determining whether or not it really is as simple as just added the parts you mentioned. Research is something that you can't afford to skimp on when planning out how to get the most out of your water cooling system.


if it is not as easy as getting a radiator water block fittings and tubing . what else can you possibly need ? are there some circumstances that you will need to add another reservoir or another pump ? the reason I am asking is because I want to cool my x2 gtx 780's . if worst comes to worst and it is not that easy what else would I have to add besides a radiator, water blocks, fittings and tubing ?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Even though i've been mainly against it, i'm awaiting an ordered H220x .. It seems i may be able to get the pump noise down to pretty much the same level as 1000rpm fans but only if i run the pump at its slowest speed possible. Hopefully i won't be disappointed, i can always sell it if i'm not happy i guess.


Pretty much my only concern was this, according to reviews the pump noise is audible at load.

Here's a nice youtube demo of how loud it is at *



* and 



.

Very impressive imo, dead silence at idle and it's tolerable at load.

i7 4790k Overclock at a 100% stable 4.8Ghz 1.35v temps:


Also read a fellow OCN's post who had pump noises possibly due to water bubbles, but hopefully that doesn't happen often.

Other than that, I'm looking forward to using one of these when I gather enough funds during the holidays.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am using cool laboratory liquid pro the same that I used on my corsair h100i . the thing that is different in my build is I am now using a corsair air 540 case and when I had the h100i I was using a thermaltake overseer rx-1 case .


Interesting. The change in cases is obviously going to have an impact on airflow, and therefore performance to some extent. In benching the H100i and H220-X back to back in the same case (a Phantom 530) on a 4770K @ 4.4/1.275V, we got a drop of 7 degrees with the H220-X at ~25dB quieter - http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2.

I have to wonder if the delidding combined with the liquid TIM is causing the H220-X to not have enough pressure in the mount.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interesting. The change in cases is obviously going to have an impact on airflow, and therefore performance to some extent. In benching the H100i and H220-X back to back in the same case (a Phantom 530) on a 4770K @ 4.4/1.275V, we got a drop of 7 degrees with the H220-X at ~25dB quieter - http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2.
> 
> I have to wonder if the delidding combined with the liquid TIM is causing the H220-X to not have enough pressure in the mount.


do you think it could be because there is about 12 fins in a row together that are slanted on a angle its about 3 inches of a single row that are on a angle . if a straight fin was 12 o clock the fins that are on a angel would be 2 o clock


----------



## Seraphic

Anyone using a H220-X with a 5960x?
Interested in temperatures and overclocking results


----------



## Heavymetals

Hello all,

I am currently waiting for my 3rd Glacer 240L replacement to get shipped out to me. I was wondering what company makes the pumps for the Glacer 240L?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am using cool laboratory liquid pro the same that I used on my corsair h100i . the thing that is different in my build is I am now using a corsair air 540 case and when I had the h100i I was using a thermaltake overseer rx-1 case .


CLP is the best but because of how thin it spreads your contact between IHS/block must be perfect. The IHS Is not 100% flat. Add in possible Block Bow you get a small contact area that will affect your temps.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavymetals*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am currently waiting for my 3rd Glacer 240L replacement to get shipped out to me. I was wondering what company makes the pumps for the Glacer 240L?


The pumps are toned down versions of the Laing DDC, modified by Swiftech for PWM control and lower max RPM from what I know. What was wrong with the previous 2 products?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> if it is not as easy as getting a radiator water block fittings and tubing . what else can you possibly need ? are there some circumstances that you will need to add another reservoir or another pump ? the reason I am asking is because I want to cool my x2 gtx 780's . if worst comes to worst and it is not that easy what else would I have to add besides a radiator, water blocks, fittings and tubing ?


What you might actually need is just more radiator surface area. The pump in these kits can handle quite a few added components and you only need a single reservoir. Adding a reservoir to these kits is mainly only done for looks.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Bryan,

When will the H240x come out?

Jason


----------



## Feyris

I just want a bottom-mountable Semi-AIO Variant, then they have my love & all of my money.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> When will the H240x come out?


I've been told by Bryan that they're due to arrive in a few weeks. I'm ready to pull the trigger on one as soon as they're in.


----------



## Heavymetals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The pumps are toned down versions of the Laing DDC, modified by Swiftech for PWM control and lower max RPM from what I know. What was wrong with the previous 2 products?


The first RMA was for a mangled leaking radiator out of the box. The second RMA was due to pump failure after 5 months of use.


----------



## VSG

I wonder if all the H220/Glacier 240L pump failures are due to it overheating from no heatsink? DDCs go bad quick with low restriction loops and no direct heat dissipation. All the more reason to have developed a new pump and the H220-x I suppose.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wonder if all the H220/Glacier 240L pump failures are due to it overheating from no heatsink? DDCs go bad quick with low restriction loops and no direct heat dissipation. All the more reason to have developed a new pump and the H220-x I suppose.


I think you were misinformed. These are similar in design and form factor to Laing DDC pumps, but they are quite different internally. These don't produce nearly the heat that DDC pumps do and we have had some issues with the initial version of these pumps. For the most part the issues that cause these pumps to fail are not dissimilar from what causes other water cooling pumps to fail.

Pumps are always going to be the main failure point in a water cooling loop simply due to the fact that they're the only part that moves. We've made several improvements on these pumps over the last several months that has culminated into the MCP30 and MCP50X pumps that we're now using. These are extremely durable and reliable pumps from the exhaustive testing that we've done and the fact that there have been just a few RMA's since we started using them a few months ago.


----------



## Heavymetals

BramSLI1,
What has been done to correct the issues with the H220/240L platform other than a wiring disconnect on the 240L rev.2?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think you were misinformed. These are similar in design and form factor to Laing DDC pumps, but they are quite different internally. These don't produce nearly the heat that DDC pumps do and we have had some issues with the initial version of these pumps. For the most part the issues that cause these pumps to fail are not dissimilar from what causes other water cooling pumps to fail.
> 
> Pumps are always going to be the main failure point in a water cooling loop simply due to the fact that they're the only part that moves. We've made several improvements on these pumps over the last several months that has culminated into the MCP30 and MCP50X pumps that we're now using. These are extremely durable and reliable pumps from the exhaustive testing that we've done and the fact that there have been just a few RMA's since we started using them a few months ago.


Thanks for the correction, what I posted above is what I have seen been posted a LOT of times everywhere on online communities. If they are indeed different internally then that whole heating theory is possibly baseless.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavymetals*
> 
> BramSLI1,
> What has been done to correct the issues with the H220/240L platform other than a wiring disconnect on the 240L rev.2?


Essentially the entire PCB has been redesigned for improved durability and so has the impeller assembly.


----------



## orndorf77

what fitting what size and how many of each would I need for 2 graphics cards in sli and a 320mm radiator ? I am planning on expanding my h220x


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Pretty much my only concern was this, according to reviews the pump noise is audible at load.
> 
> Here's a nice youtube demo of how loud it is at *
> 
> 
> 
> * and
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Very impressive imo, dead silence at idle and it's tolerable at load.
> 
> i7 4790k Overclock at a 100% stable 4.8Ghz 1.35v temps:
> 
> 
> Also read a fellow OCN's post who had pump noises possibly due to water bubbles, but hopefully that doesn't happen often.
> 
> Other than that, I'm looking forward to using one of these when I gather enough funds during the holidays.


Though it sounds pretty quiet in that video at minimum speeds, it doesn't sound that smooth a noise to me and seems a little grindy.. call me fussy but it's just my opinion. Maybe i'll cancel my order and go with a NHD15 as it's guaranteed to be quiet (no pump noise) so i'll have a think about it.

Only way to complete silence seems to be to go with a custom loop and a properly dampened pump, i don't think i can be bothered with that when i could get a large air cooler that is much simpler to set up and keep going.

AIO's may have gotten there temp wise, but noise levels of the pumps leaves a bit to be desired in my opinion.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Though it sounds pretty quiet in that video at minimum speeds, it doesn't sound that smooth a noise to me and seems a little grindy.. call me fussy but it's just my opinion. Maybe i'll cancel my order and go with a NHD15 as it's guaranteed to be quiet (no pump noise) so i'll have a think about it.
> 
> Only way to complete silence seems to be to go with a custom loop and a properly dampened pump, i don't think i can be bothered with that when i could get a large air cooler that is much simpler to set up and keep going.
> 
> AIO's may have gotten there temp wise, but noise levels of the pumps leaves a bit to be desired in my opinion.


It's important to note that it was a open bench set-up, but I agree with ya.

In a case, it wouldn't bother me one bit. On top of that I'll be usually wearing a pair of headphones.

Good choice with the NHD15 (I just can't fit that mass of a cooler in my set up).









I'm really liking where AIOs are going...gives those on the fence about custom water cooling something to think about and consider.


----------



## emsj86

I always hear people say pump noise. I have a glacer 240l and I don't hear it. When I filled my loop recently to change tubing I couldn't tell if it was running or not but I knew it was only due to the liquid moving


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I always hear people say pump noise. I have a glacer 240l and I don't hear it. When I filled my loop recently to change tubing I couldn't tell if it was running or not but I knew it was only due to the liquid moving


Well there must be some difference as it can be measured easily with a decibel meter when a pump is sitting against hard material rather than being on something soft and thick, i have to wonder why the pumps aren't dampened at all. Think it would be fairly easy for them to have covered the pump up in noise insulating material.. i think that alone could make a big difference. The main reason for going water cooling in the first place is silence right?


----------



## emsj86

Ok so for the h220/glacer 240l I put a small single bay reservior in and it's a little higher than the cpuump and goes to the pump like it is soppose to. My question is I would like to buy a tube reservoir (nothing huge, something I can use if I ever buy a dedicated pump) and I wanna mount it below the cpu/ pump. Question is one can the pump handle 2 240mm rads, 1 single bay res, and gpu block.? Also since I have the single bay res at the top feeding my pump does it matter where I put the second one? Basically I want it for the future when I go dedicated pump and also for now for looks I would still for The setup I have now use the single bay to fill the loop bc it feeds the pump but does it matter where I put it at in the loop and cannot handle say a 150ml res with the 2 240s, gpu block, single bay res and the tubing/cpu pump combo? Thank you. Also tonight I'll post my pic of my expanded loop with bay rea and added bottom mounted 240mm rad. Very excited


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Well there must be some difference as it can be measured easily with a decibel meter when a pump is sitting against hard material rather than being on something soft and thick, i have to wonder why the pumps aren't dampened at all. Think it would be fairly easy for them to have covered the pump up in noise insulating material.. i think that alone could make a big difference. The main reason for going water cooling in the first place is silence right?


Well not main purpose bc water if done right gives way better temps. But yes silence is a big factor. Maybe I'm lucky bc I can even hear my pump even with the fans at 800rpms and only time I ever heard it was when I was bleeding the system and it still had some bubbles. Usually if your system is filled correct and no air it should be near silent and if mount where it's not loose


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Well not main purpose bc water if done right gives way better temps. But yes silence is a big factor. Maybe I'm lucky bc I can even hear my pump even with the fans at 800rpms and only time I ever heard it was when I was bleeding the system and it still had some bubbles. Usually if your system is filled correct and no air it should be near silent and if mount where it's not loose


Yes that is true, making sure it is tightly screwed to the case should help some i guess.

Regarding noise though, the guy from HiTechLegion on YouTube is pretty much the only person i know of that has measured the H220x's sound with a decibel meter. If you check it out go to 16:40 and check the results, the Noctua NHD15 has a 5-7+ decibel advantage over all the other AIO's.

The thing with the H220x is that it does a good job of beating the other AIO's in noise, but it is still not near the silence of the NHD15 even if the temps are a bit better.. That says to me that it is in fact the pumps in these units causing the extra noise.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Yes that is true, making sure it is tightly screwed to the case should help some i guess.
> 
> Regarding noise though, the guy from HiTechLegion on YouTube is pretty much the only person i know of that has measured the H220x's sound with a decibel meter. If you check it out go to 16:40 and check the results, the Noctua NHD15 has a 5-7+ decibel advantage over all the other AIO's.
> 
> The thing with the H220x is that it does a good job of beating the other AIO's in noise, but it is still not near the silence of the NHD15 even if the temps are a bit better.. That says to me that it is in fact the pumps in these units causing the extra noise.


I've watched that review to the end before, props to Hi-tech legion for that one.

IMO a 5 - 7 dB advantage is not worth having a bulky air cooler over a more elegant solution that can be expanded upon.

Being an audiophile, I care about silence just as much as the other guy







.

I guess you can always add dampening foam to the frame of your case if you are really trying to achieve a silent experience (temps will probably increase a tad).


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I guess you can always add dampening foam to the frame of your case if you are really trying to achieve a silent experience (temps will probably increase a tad).


I think if Swiftech made an enclosure around the pump it might have made a difference as well, unless it doesn't matter because it'd go through the rest of the rad anyway.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Time to add a 2nd Rad to my 220x



I was going to purchase the Swiftech Rad but got a great price on the EX240. I wanted to run 4 ap15 Gentle Typhoons in push-pull but because they're discontinued I am having a hard time finding them at a reasonable price. I have the fans from my H100i but they are just too LOUD. What is the next best option? I'm considering adding a "T" between the 2nd rad and the 220x rad to aid in bleeding the system. Now all I need is a vice to Delid my 4790K.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> Time to add a 2nd Rad to my 220x
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to purchase the Swiftech Rad but got a great price on the EX240. I wanted to run 4 ap15 Gentle Typhoons in push-pull but because they're discontinued I am having a hard time finding them at a reasonable price. I have the fans from my H100i but they are just too LOUD. What is the next best option? I'm considering adding a "T" between the 2nd rad and the 220x rad to aid in bleeding the system. Now all I need is a vice to Delid my 4790K.


Nice find!

That sounds like a silent and breezy set up







.

What actually steered me away from the H100i were reports of how loud it can be even with the fans replaced.

Look at my sig for fan recommendations and this is a thread geared towards the H220X so probably best to post there too.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Nice find!
> 
> That sounds like a silent and breezy set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> What actually steered me away from the H100i were reports of how loud it can be even with the fans replaced.
> 
> Look at my sig for fan recommendations and this is a thread geared towards the H220X so probably best to post there too.


I have a h220x and I want to expand it to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli I know I need x2 water blocks and a radiator and tubing . I just don't know what size and how many compression fittings and barbs I need and what size sli connector i need my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7 . can you please help me out ? i would really appreciate it


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have a h220x and I want to expand it to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli I know I need x2 water blocks and a radiator and tubing . I just don't know what size and how many compression fittings and barbs I need and what size sli connector i need my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7 . can you please help me out ? i would really appreciate it


fittings needed = 2 per added component(2 for additional rad, 2 for additional block. basically, 1 in, 1 out)

sli fitting is dependent on your waterblock you are using.

tubing is 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> fittings needed = 2 per added component(2 for additional rad, 2 for additional block. basically, 1 in, 1 out)
> 
> sli fitting is dependent on your waterblock you are using.
> 
> tubing is 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD


do i need compresion fittings are barbs or both ? and how do I find out what sli connectors are compatible with what water blocks ?


----------



## emsj86

240 rad , ek gpu 780 gpu block. Mayhem pastel. What do you think guys?


----------



## emsj86

phanteks enthoo pro. Sp120 fans x4, ek 780 gpu block, primochill tubing, ek compression fittings, fx 8350 oc at 4.8. Asus sabertooth 990fx, xspc single bay res, 3 240 swiftech rads one xonar and the other came with glacer kit


----------



## emsj86




----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do i need compresion fittings are barbs or both ? and how do I find out what sli connectors are compatible with what water blocks ?


compressions vs barbs/clamps are interchangable for the most part. though the connection between the gpus will be using a compression fitting.

what kind of SLI connectors will depend on which slot the gpus are on the motherboards(there's like 3 sizes, pick depending on # of slots away the gpu are). additional accessories may be required depending on gpu waterblock of choice


----------



## emsj86

Can someone help. I added as seen above a 250mm rad and a ek gpu block. Used the star method as suggested by ek. Well if bleeding my idle temps are 50 and went up to 96 before I exited quickly out of the game. What could be happening? Note my cpu temps dropped 4 degrees on idle from when on just 1 240mm rad


----------



## M3TAl

Bad mount with the GPU block, try again. Make sure you didn't forget anything. Also I know EK's manual says the star method is preferred but IMO it's not. I always go with a dot in the middle for GPU.

Star method in my experience leads to way too much TIM and air pockets. My GPU temps dropped about 5C going from X/star to dot in the middle.

Edit: Actually looking at your loop... I think you might have a serious problem with your tube routing. I've never personally used a full cover GPU block, only universal, but it looks like your tube routing for the GPU is wrong, very wrong.

It looks like your'e going in and out of the GPU block all at once, basically bypassing the microchannels completely.

You tried to add a drain from the GPU block? Don't think you can do that.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Bad mount with the GPU block, try again. Make sure you didn't forget anything. Also I know EK's manual says the star method is preferred but IMO it's not. I always go with a dot in the middle for GPU.
> 
> Star method in my experience leads to way too much TIM and air pockets. My GPU temps dropped about 5C going from X/star to dot in the middle.
> 
> Edit: Actually looking at your loop... I think you might have a serious problem with your tube routing. I've never personally used a full cover GPU block, only universal, but it looks like your tube routing for the GPU is wrong, very wrong.
> 
> It looks like your'e going in and out of the GPU block all at once, basically bypassing the microchannels completely.
> 
> You tried to add a drain from the GPU block? Don't think you can do that.


Yen I see what you mean. In the instructions it says you can use any ports as your in and your out so that's why I hooked up the extra one for a drain. I think you may be right and it's just passing right through. Only question is if I had one on too left and one on bottom right why isn't the gpu any fluid going through the "drain tube" I tried to set up


----------



## emsj86




----------



## M3TAl

See how in that pic from the EK manual one tube is on the right and one on the left? I don't think you can have both on the right or both on the left.

I would take that tubing you have on the bottom right and move it to the bottom left. Or move the top left to the top right, whichever is easiest. That should fix the problem. Oh and I still believe dot > X/star for TIM. At least that was always true in my testing.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone help. I added as seen above a 250mm rad and a ek gpu block. Used the star method as suggested by ek. Well if bleeding my idle temps are 50 and went up to 96 before I exited quickly out of the game. What could be happening? Note my cpu temps dropped 4 degrees on idle from when on just 1 240mm rad


http://www.overclock.net/t/1512865/custom-waterloop-temperature-problem


----------



## emsj86

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> See how in that pic from the EK manual one tube is on the right and one on the left? I don't think you can have both on the right or both on the left.
> 
> I would take that tubing you have on the bottom right and move it to the bottom left. Or move the top left to the top right, whichever is easiest. That should fix the problem. Oh and I still believe dot > X/star for TIM. At least that was always true in my testing.


I think your right gonna drain it tonight after work. And try it out. See how it's just a pass through in this picture. Oh well I'll fix it tonight and you live and you learn.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I
> I think your right gonna drain it tonight after work. And try it out. See how it's just a pass through in this picture. Oh well I'll fix it tonight and you live and you learn.


Don't worry, you definitely did the right thing and shut it down. I for one made the same mistake in my build sometime last year. I did exactly what you did following it all. All I've got to say about that is it's a part of water cooling including dreaded leaks, but I rather this happens than a leak. All in all you did well, just try to limit your tubing lengths.


----------



## dreameer111

I just got the h220x and changed the tubing, but how the hell do you bleed it? I tried taking out the little screw but water starts leaking out of it.
It's so frustrating.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> I just got the h220x and changed the tubing, but how the hell do you bleed it? I tried taking out the little screw but water starts leaking out of it.
> It's so frustrating.


that's the fun part I never got the bleed screw to bleed anything but water myself even when air bubble was right there...I left my runs a little long to keep the rad in hand using fill port to bleed it's not 100 percent yet and definitely a pain to do it this way I am adding a second res soon to eliminate having to bleed/fill this way..


----------



## orndorf77

i have my h220x mounted using coollaboratory liquid pro . i want to try the swiftech thermal paste that came with my h220x because my temps are 2c higher then when i had my corsair h100i . in order for me to do this i have to get the coollaboratory off the cpu and the water block . i am able to get the coollaboratory off of the cpu with the pad that came with the coollaboratory but to get it off the water block i will have to sand it . is it safe to sand the h220x water block ? and is there a certain way to do it ? or do i just sand it until the coollaboratory comes off ?


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Well i'm certainly having some bad luck indeed, i decided to keep my old 1366 system going a bit longer by putting in a new GTX 970 GPU.. but after cleaning my Swiftech Apogee XT water block i am unable to screw one of the 3 screws on one side all the way in, it just keeps turning through the bottom copper part. So don't know if that's a potential leak hazard now.. i'd ordered a pump controller as well to quieten this old MCR 320 Drive, and had to cancel it after that happened. Looks like i'm back to the h220x again, anyone know if the motherboard mounting plate for an old Apogee XT block will work with the H220x block?

Looks like i'm waiting a while before i can even test my new gpu.. ugh.


----------



## PrimateCurious

Hi. I was wondering if the Swiftech 220 could be expanded to include the ASUS GTX 780 Poseidon without additional blocks?


----------



## Scorpion49

Hey guys, I just got a new CM Glacer 240L, it was on sale at Microcenter for $99 when I got my new motherboard/CPU. I'm happy that this one didn't die in the first few minutes like my old H220 did, runs nice and quiet. I'm thinking about ditching the 240 radiator for a 360mm XSPC I have, and maybe adding a res. Should this pump be able to handle it? I was originally going to leave it alone but the tubes are way too long for my build so I had to bend them around like crazy to make it fit in a presentable manner.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Well i'm certainly having some bad luck indeed, i decided to keep my old 1366 system going a bit longer by putting in a new GTX 970 GPU.. but after cleaning my Swiftech Apogee XT water block i am unable to screw one of the 3 screws on one side all the way in, it just keeps turning through the bottom copper part. So don't know if that's a potential leak hazard now.. i'd ordered a pump controller as well to quieten this old MCR 320 Drive, and had to cancel it after that happened. Looks like i'm back to the h220x again, anyone know if the motherboard mounting plate for an old Apogee XT block will work with the H220x block?
> 
> Looks like i'm waiting a while before i can even test my new gpu.. ugh.


Are you asking about the back plate or the top adapter plate? I believe that the back plate should be compatible, but not the top adapter plate.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> I just got the h220x and changed the tubing, but how the hell do you bleed it? I tried taking out the little screw but water starts leaking out of it.
> It's so frustrating.


I just added a ex240 rad with 1/2 ID Clear tubing and Danger Den high flow Barbs that I had left over from a previous build to my 220x last night. I installed a "T" with filler cap between the new rad and intake of the 220x. It made bleeding the system quick and easy. To use the bleed screw or filler port on the 220x you need to either un mount the 220x and turn the unit or turn your case to allow the air bubbles to escape.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PrimateCurious*
> 
> Hi. I was wondering if the Swiftech 220 could be expanded to include the ASUS GTX 780 Poseidon without additional blocks?


Welcome to OCN









Well you'll definitely need a water block for the GPU.

Something like this:


I suggest checking the compatibility of that board with ekwb's cooling config first.

If you're saying not having any more parts than what comes with, you can also look into an AIO bracket like the G10.

Then you wouldn't have to buy anything else, but a small radiator.

You may also find this 



 from Hi-Tech Legion informative.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i have my h220x mounted using coollaboratory liquid pro . i want to try the swiftech thermal paste that came with my h220x because my temps are 2c higher then when i had my corsair h100i . in order for me to do this i have to get the coollaboratory off the cpu and the water block . i am able to get the coollaboratory off of the cpu with the pad that came with the coollaboratory but to get it off the water block i will have to sand it . is it safe to sand the h220x water block ? and is there a certain way to do it ? or do i just sand it until the coollaboratory comes off ?


Yes you can lap the cold plate. To get a mirror finish you need 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper and a perfect flat surface( glass).
I've been using Tim Mate 2. It's very easy to apply and my temps are same as MX4. Use rice grain method. I just bought CLU for a Delid but haven't decided if I'm going to apply it between the IHS and block.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Welcome to OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well you'll definitely need a water block for the GPU.


The Poseidon is a hybrid air/water cooler with G1/4 threads installed already. I don't know how restrictive the built in stuff is, I think he is asking if the pump can handle it.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The Poseidon is a hybrid air/water cooler with G1/4 threads installed already. I don't know how restrictive the built in stuff is, I think he is asking if the pump can handle it.


Thanks for clarifying, wasn't too familiar with that card.

That makes sense now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PrimateCurious*
> 
> Hi. I was wondering if the Swiftech 220 could be expanded to include the ASUS GTX 780 Poseidon without additional blocks?


You don't need any additional blocks because that card has a hybrid water block and air cooler on it. Just expand the H220 in the same way you would if you were adding a water cooled GPU.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you asking about the back plate or the top adapter plate? I believe that the back plate should be compatible, but not the top adapter plate.


Yeah i already have an Apogee XT 1366 backplate behind the motherboard, or socket plate.. whatever it is called that the waterblock screws into.

Just need to make sure the h220x's waterblock would screw into that without issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> Yeah i already have an Apogee XT 1366 backplate behind the motherboard, or socket plate.. whatever it is called that the waterblock screws into.
> 
> Just need to make sure the h220x's waterblock would screw into that without issue.


Yes, I do believe that it should.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, I do believe that it should.


Alright good, thanks for the reply. I need to wait a bit now for availability in europe.


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> I just added a ex240 rad with 1/2 ID Clear tubing and Danger Den high flow Barbs that I had left over from a previous build to my 220x last night. I installed a "T" with filler cap between the new rad and intake of the 220x. It made bleeding the system quick and easy. To use the bleed screw or filler port on the 220x you need to either un mount the 220x and turn the unit or turn your case to allow the air bubbles to escape.


Hmm, I may have to try that T, but would really like to avoid it for aesthetic purposes.
Do you have any pics of your rig?


----------



## orndorf77

can I use a silver bullet plug on my h220x reservoir when I fill it ?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Don't worry, you definitely did the right thing and shut it down. I for one made the same mistake in my build sometime last year. I did exactly what you did following it all. All I've got to say about that is it's a part of water cooling including dreaded leaks, but I rather this happens than a leak. All in all you did well, just try to limit your tubing lengths.


Just wanted to thank you for your help. Your the man. Dumb mistake but it's up and running now. And I switched the bottom two gpu ports so I know have a drain port off the gpu and a working gpu block. Now time to play some games. Bf4 here I come.


----------



## emsj86




----------



## springs113

I can see that you're up and running, glad everything worked out, and it's no biggie I'm just doing what everyone else has done for me...now the torch has been past down to you to do the same lol.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PrimateCurious*
> 
> Hi. I was wondering if the Swiftech 220 could be expanded to include the ASUS GTX 780 Poseidon without additional blocks?


Yes, all you would need are fittings. The 780 Poseidon has hybrid cooling, so it already has a waterblock and it also has a heatsink and fans above it. Check out this exploded diagram;



Actually it is a pretty good idea. If your pump ever failed you would still likely get decent temps on the GPU and avoid any permanent damage. I saw an article about this GPU a year and half ago but never actually saw one on sale. If you haven't bought one yet maybe better just get a 970 and a waterblock (when EK actually releases it that is) for $100 more. I wanted the 970 but instead grabbed a 980 because of the immediate availability of a full cover WB. Just throwing it out there. The 970 is a steal at $329...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Just as a precaution, don't be alarmed if the Pastel in the drain tube starts to look weird or have white powdery type substance in it. Since the fluid in that drain tube won't be moving often or at all, the nano particles in the Pastel will probably settle in the bottom of the tube.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Hmm, I may have to try that T, but would really like to avoid it for aesthetic purposes.
> Do you have any pics of your rig?


I didn't take any before pulling it apart Again to delid the cpu to apply CLU and route the tubing differently. You can also use a second reservoir or add a acrylic T with LED Lighting.


----------



## Moonless

The sound of my H220 pump has been back for some time now. I've tried removing air bubbles over and over with no success the pump is just noisy and somewhat annoying now but I have no idea what else to do to quiet it down. Really could use some more help.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> The sound of my H220 pump has been back for some time now. I've tried removing air bubbles over and over with no success the pump is just noisy and somewhat annoying now but I have no idea what else to do to quiet it down. Really could use some more help.


Have you ever removed the copper plate to see if there is any plasticizer build up on the underside of the block? This was my problem when I had air bubbles.


----------



## Morpheen

On the 240l...would it be a bad idea to drill the holes on the rafiator for the screws bigger? I'm having issues getting four fans on. Trying to get my push/pull on. I have four fans on now but its really ghetto looking.


----------



## Teddyhead

Hi guys, how would you arrange the airflow when using Phantom 630 with H220X mounted on the roof of the case?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teddyhead*
> 
> Hi guys, how would you arrange the airflow when using Phantom 630 with H220X mounted on the roof of the case?


Front intake, with top exhaust is what I would do.

Pull config is my personal preference due to dust and easy maintenance.

I prefer a positive pressure case (assuming you have dust filters).

So intake > exhaust = positive pressure.

This is just rule of thumb thing, not really specific to your components.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, with the size of the H220X, it'll be very difficult to do push-pull. Not sure how big the 630 is.


----------



## liberato87

Hi guys, I have done a quick Unboxing of the new Swiftech H220-X




I will do the english version soon, hope you appreciate!


----------



## Chita Gonza

Tomorrow can't come soon enough. Having my h220 sitting at home where I can't access it is so painful! My new case(also at home) and cooler must be feeling so lonely without the rest of their guts! frown.gif


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> Hi guys, I have done a quick Unboxing of the new Swiftech H220-X
> 
> I will do the english version soon, hope you appreciate!


Nice! Subbed. I will be waiting to hear your thoughts in English







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chita Gonza*
> 
> Tomorrow can't come soon enough. Having my h220 sitting at home where I can't access it is so painful! My new case(also at home) and cooler must be feeling so lonely without the rest of their guts! frown.gif












Be sure to post pictures!


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teddyhead*
> 
> Hi guys, how would you arrange the airflow when using Phantom 630 with H220X mounted on the roof of the case?


Set it as intake. Cooler air from the room will help aid the process


----------



## Teddyhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Front intake, with top exhaust is what I would do.
> 
> Pull config is my personal preference due to dust and easy maintenance.
> 
> I prefer a positive pressure case (assuming you have dust filters).
> 
> So intake > exhaust = positive pressure.
> 
> This is just rule of thumb thing, not really specific to your components.
> 
> EDIT: Forgot to mention, with the size of the H220X, it'll be very difficult to do push-pull. Not sure how big the 630 is.


So 1x200mm intake in front, 1x200mm intake on the side, 1x140mm exhaust in rear, and 2x120mm exhaust on top in pull configuration should do the job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Set it as intake. Cooler air from the room will help aid the process


How would you arrange the case fans then?


----------



## Rickles

So how would a 220x work in a haf xb? Would that res be a problem?


----------



## emsj86

I wouldn't drill. I had a little problem with the corsair fans lining up on my 240l and the screw just wouldn't take. What I did was add some preasure to get it going than it works fine. Probably a biuld up on paint or just not perfect cut holesquote name="Morpheen" url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/12300#post_22912681"]On the 240l...would it be a bad idea to drill the holes on the rafiator for the screws bigger? I'm having issues getting four fans on. Trying to get my push/pull on. I have four fans on now but its really ghetto looking.[/quote].


----------



## Moonless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Have you ever removed the copper plate to see if there is any plasticizer build up on the underside of the block? This was my problem when I had air bubbles.


How might I go about doing that? Is it possible something like that happened even after only 7 months of use? I definitely need more ideas cause the noise drives me insane lol.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> How might I go about doing that? Is it possible something like that happened even after only 7 months of use? I definitely need more ideas cause the noise drives me insane lol.


It's very possible it can happen in 7 months because that's exactly when mine started making air bubbles noises. I also was experiencing very high Temps when this happened. They're 8 screws I believe holding the block onto the pump. Just make sure you don't lose the square gasket otherwise it'll leak when putting it back together. Just remove the screws and the block will come off, take a toothbrush to the underside of the block and clean it up good.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> How might I go about doing that? Is it possible something like that happened even after only 7 months of use? I definitely need more ideas cause the noise drives me insane lol.


@bvsbutthd101 is right. Depending on the situation it can set in fairly quickly. I have yet to see plasticizer completely kill a pump, but it can make it pretty noisy. If you need further assistance with cleaning things out then just PM me.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> So how would a 220x work in a haf xb? Would that res be a problem?


Wecells answered this to another relative organism of ours...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/10730#post_22608783


----------



## Morpheen

One more question. My pump on my 240l is kinda noisy, I can't imagine much water has evaporated but if it has do I just fill it until water pours out of the fill port?


----------



## Moonless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> It's very possible it can happen in 7 months because that's exactly when mine started making air bubbles noises. I also was experiencing very high Temps when this happened. They're 8 screws I believe holding the block onto the pump. Just make sure you don't lose the square gasket otherwise it'll leak when putting it back together. Just remove the screws and the block will come off, take a toothbrush to the underside of the block and clean it up good.


Alright thanks I'll see about checking that out soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> @bvsbutthd101 is right. Depending on the situation it can set in fairly quickly. I have yet to see plasticizer completely kill a pump, but it can make it pretty noisy. If you need further assistance with cleaning things out then just PM me.


Okay sure, I'll be sure to keep that in mind for future reference.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morpheen*
> 
> One more question. My pump on my 240l is kinda noisy, I can't imagine much water has evaporated but if it has do I just fill it until water pours out of the fill port?


That's correct. Make sure that you shake the radiator vigorously first to get all of the air up into the reservoir. If you don't do this it will likely look like the radiator is still full and you won't be able to add anything to it.


----------



## Morpheen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. Make sure that you shake the radiator vigorously first to get all of the air up into the reservoir. If you don't do this it will likely look like the radiator is still full and you won't be able to add anything to it.


Awesome. Thanks so much.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teddyhead*
> 
> How would you arrange the case fans then?


Wherever there is a radiator as intake except for the back


----------



## emsj86

A few questions is ddc pump on for cpu and gpu and 2 rads. Also is it worth just getting a d5? What's the advantages? Also I want in the future a non bay pump res or pump res combo can anyone suggest a budget (not cheap made but good for the money one) combo. Also can you buy the swiftech h220x cpu block by itself. Also will these blocks have adapters for new or upcoming styles of CPUs. Sorry that's a lot to answer


----------



## spacetoast31

Finished my loop last night and i plan on picking up 2 780 poseidons when my SLI 760s are sold.


----------



## ukic

I made a thread but it was suggested to ask/post here. This will be my loop but I think I am missing something?

7990 Water block -
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18495/ex-blc-1412/EK_Radeon_HD_7990_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_w_Backplate_EK-FC7990_-_AcetalNickel_incl_Backplate.html

240 Radiator -
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13545/ex-rad-262/Swiftech_MCR220-XP_eXtreme_Performance_Dual_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR220-XP.html

H220-X Kit -
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25187/ex-wat-327/Swiftech_H220-X_Expandable_All-In-One_Liquid_Cooling_Kit.html

6ft Tubing - Not sure how long I need for this cpu/gpu loop?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17582/ex-tub-1571/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_Clear_PFLEXA-58.html

4x Barb fittings - Do you need to put clamps to securely lock these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7131/ex-tub-182/Bitspower_Chrome_G38_Barb_Fitting_-_38_ID_BP-WTP-C16.html

Using distilled water as coolant with the following additives -
Feser Base Corrosion Blocker - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html

IandH Biocide -
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html

If there are better components than what I posted (which I'm sure there are), please let me know. Thank you in advance.


----------



## BangBangPlay

6ft of tubing is plenty. That's how much I used and I still had 2ft left over. You need 5/8 clamps for any barb fittings. The h220X comes with 4 black clamps that can be reused, but you'll need a few more for your GPU and rad. I used Koolance reusable tension clamps and they work fine, but have a nickel finish.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> 6ft of tubing is plenty. That's how much I used and I still had 2ft left over. You need 5/8 clamps for any barb fittings. The h220X comes with 4 black clamps that can be reused, but you'll need a few more for your GPU and rad. I used Koolance reusable tension clamps and they work fine, but have a nickel finish.


Do you still need clamps if you use compression fittings?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Do you still need clamps if you use compression fittings?


No, the fitting tightens around the tube. Be sure to tighten the fittings again after 24-48 hours of use/heat. The tuning expands and shrinks so the compression fittings could use another quarter to half turn. The only fitting that you can't change is the pump outlet, so that will need/use a clamp. You could just reuse one of the 4 supplied.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> 6ft of tubing is plenty. That's how much I used and I still had 2ft left over. You need 5/8 clamps for any barb fittings. The h220X comes with 4 black clamps that can be reused, but you'll need a few more for your GPU and rad. I used Koolance reusable tension clamps and they work fine, but have a nickel finish.


Just buy primo chill advanced lrt (the one that comes in a box) two reasons for that is it comes a lot nicer , 10feet and comes with the bottle to prep: clean the tubing


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> 
> Finished my loop last night and i plan on picking up 2 780 poseidons when my SLI 760s are sold.


Our you using the ds fans for your rad if so how's the performance


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> 
> Finished my loop last night and i plan on picking up 2 780 poseidons when my SLI 760s are sold.


Nice but why 780. Why not get 980 instead and wait for the blocks to be made.
The performance jump will be quiet big.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice but why 780. Why not get 980 instead and wait for the blocks to be made.
> The performance jump will be quiet big.


Its been on my list of thoughts with it. But the cost would also be a significant difference. Why not just stay a year behind times? Price difference will make my decision seem more reasonable. I bought the 2x760s 6 months ago at 250 a piece. And I am no one to strive for top of the line for everything. I mean, I use a z77 sabertooth and a 3570k, why don't I just buy the new octo-core intely chip? Because I'm comfortable with older technology as it holds up just fine!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Our you using the ds fans for your rad if so how's the performance


Not yet but I planned on buying my 6x120 DS fans today for my front 360. That rear 140 is a beast!


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Its been on my list of thoughts with it. But the cost would also be a significant difference. Why not just stay a year behind times? Price difference will make my decision seem more reasonable. I bought the 2x760s 6 months ago at 250 a piece. And I am no one to strive for top of the line for everything. I mean, I use a z77 sabertooth and a 3570k, why don't I just buy the new octo-core intely chip? Because I'm comfortable with older technology as it holds up just fine!
> Not yet but I planned on buying my 6x120 DS fans today for my front 360. That rear 140 is a beast!


Doesn't make any sense in the context of the 970/980: both cards are faster and the 970 is much cheaper ($329 vs ~$550 for a 780) than the 780. Even nvidia agrees, and have completely removed the 770, 780 and 780 Ti from the market because of that.


----------



## spacetoast31

The poseidon with its hybrid integrated waterblock, is 350 bucks right now.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice but why 780. Why not get 980 instead and wait for the blocks to be made.
> The performance jump will be quiet big.


They have waterblocks for gtx 980 right now just the black ek ones. But next week they will have the aryclic ones. I'd say go one watercooled gtx 980 and overclock it than buy another one later or buy both if you got that kind of money


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Doesn't make any sense in the context of the 970/980: both cards are faster and the 970 is much cheaper ($329 vs ~$550 for a 780) than the 780. Even nvidia agrees, and have completely removed the 770, 780 and 780 Ti from the market because of that.


Agreed but you can go to eBay and pick up a 780 for sub. 300 and mine is oc to 1350 MHz and is slightly faster than the 970. I m waiting to next year Gpus it until I get asus 144hz 1440p monitor. I have no reason since I play bf4 and hardline uses same engine. I allready get 120 on high settings


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Its been on my list of thoughts with it. But the cost would also be a significant difference. Why not just stay a year behind times? Price difference will make my decision seem more reasonable. I bought the 2x760s 6 months ago at 250 a piece. And I am no one to strive for top of the line for everything. I mean, I use a z77 sabertooth and a 3570k, why don't I just buy the new octo-core intely chip? Because I'm comfortable with older technology as it holds up just fine!
> Not yet but I planned on buying my 6x120 DS fans today for my front 360. That rear 140 is a beast!


Save some of that's eye push pull gives very little gains and takes up slot of room. Just go push or just pull. And use that. 60-80 dollars for another upgrade


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Agreed but you can go to eBay and pick up a 780 for sub. 300 and mine is oc to 1350 MHz and is slightly faster than the 970. I m waiting to next year Gpus it until I get asus 144hz 1440p monitor. I have no reason since I play bf4 and hardline uses same engine. I allready get 120 on high settings


Had a quick look around. I don't see then going for under 330, which is 970 kind of money. A (stock) 970 is 10-30% faster than a (stock) 780, uses 100W less power (145W TDP vs 250W) and if you choose well, will happily be cooled by a GTX 660Ti/670/760 full cpver block. Odds are that you'll recoup the costs just in power savings within the month.

EDIT: oh, and the 970 will be brand new, and consequently have a longer warranty on it compared to any second-hand GPU.


----------



## X-Alt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Odds are that you'll recoup the costs just in power savings within the month.
> 
> EDIT: oh, and the 970 will be brand new, and consequently have a longer warranty on it compared to any second-hand GPU.


The power savings will need years to add up, I think he should hold off until 20nm parts come in, considering all he plays is BF4 (for now).


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-Alt*
> 
> The power savings will need years to add up, I think he should hold off until 20nm parts come in, considering all he plays is BF4 (for now).


Depends how much you game I guess...


----------



## emsj86

You didn't hit me with the old saying electric bill savings. 970 is a great card but electric bull you won't even notice


----------



## emsj86

Your right though if I didn't have my 780. Which I only just watercooled bc I got a ek block for 30 dollars. Than I'd get a 970 watercool and oc it. Or just get a 989 but watercooling is fun and addicting


----------



## icecpu

I swear I look hard to find the coolant in the clear window, but I find nothing. Anyway, is there any instruction how to refill the coolant and what kind a coolant needed to be use, I found nothing in the manual.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I swear I look hard to find the coolant in the clear window, but I find nothing. Anyway, is there any instruction how to refill the coolant and what kind a coolant needed to be use, I found nothing in the manual.


To be honest, it sucked, especially getting out all of the air bubbles. Completely sucked. Plus my 360 front rad is mounted fittings at the bottom so I doubt the initial filling was any easier like that Lol. But I just rand a fitting and hose to the side reservoir plug and filled it slowly would on/off with my extra PSU to cycle the coolant in and shake around to move the air bubble. I think all of it took maybe an hour and I just used straight distilled water and a pure silver plug.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I swear I look hard to find the coolant in the clear window, but I find nothing. Anyway, is there any instruction how to refill the coolant and what kind a coolant needed to be use, I found nothing in the manual.


If it's air bubble free you shouldn't see the coolant until it's on and that's only because it's lit up you can see the impeller spinning and occasionally some micro bubbles... the coolant being hard to see is a good thing it means no air in the reservoir.... Monday my second res and led plug will be here to aide in my bleeding of my pesky loop... if you have to break the loop and refill you can re use what you take out and add distilled for whatever you need extra... no need for fancy coolants unless you want that kind of thing... distilled is 99 cents per gallon here


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> To be honest, it sucked, especially getting out all of the air bubbles. Completely sucked. Plus my 360 front rad is mounted fittings at the bottom so I doubt the initial filling was any easier like that Lol. But I just rand a fitting and hose to the side reservoir plug and filled it slowly would on/off with my extra PSU to cycle the coolant in and shake around to move the air bubble. I think all of it took maybe an hour and I just used straight distilled water and a pure silver plug.


I guess then nevermind about refilling, just use it for 3 to 4 years then swap out for a new one .


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I swear I look hard to find the coolant in the clear window, but I find nothing. Anyway, is there any instruction how to refill the coolant and what kind a coolant needed to be use, I found nothing in the manual.


Nice build, jealous of that X99 board...







.

Here's a great video by Gabriel at Swiftech:




Definitely cleared up many concerns I had, wished Swiftech did these more often tbh.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I guess then nevermind about refilling, just use it for 3 to 4 years then swap out for a new one .


if you can handle installing it refilling it shouldn't be an issue as long as you get it bled well... if you don't plan on adding anything to the loop there isn't a real reason to break the loop down especially when it's air free and running smooth


----------



## Dudewitbow

after pretty much a whole day, computer is back under water(in a new smaller and compact case). purging air pockets is so much easier with external power source/jump started PSU while its not connected to the motherboard.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> after pretty much a whole day, computer is back under water(in a new smaller and compact case). purging air pockets is so much easier with external power source/jump started PSU while its not connected to the motherboard.


yeah I took a 1/4 inch off an end of a paper clip to jump mine...I also unplugged all other power supply connectors for just in case I hsf a leak which I didn't I've used compression fittings a lot in plumbing so I was pretty confident it wouldn't but can never be too careful when you're broke lol... kinda funny side note I was running it and my fiance came in and was like what's tha... as I yelled "don't touch it"...I got smacked for scaring her but she didn't get a shocking suprise


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I took a 1/4 inch off an end of a paper clip to jump mine...I also unplugged all other power supply connectors for just in case I hsf a leak which I didn't I've used compression fittings a lot in plumbing so I was pretty confident it wouldn't but can never be too careful when you're broke lol... kinda funny side note I was running it and my fiance came in and was like what's tha... as I yelled "don't touch it"...I got smacked for scaring her but she didn't get a shocking suprise












Should have pretended to be electrocuted.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You didn't hit me with the old saying electric bill savings. 970 is a great card but electric bull you won't even notice


I run SLI 670s right now, and was planning to move up to SLI 780s with my eventual Haswell-E rebuild. With the amount of time my desktop stays up (16+hrs/day with at least 2-3 hours of active 3D), it adds up :/


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Nice build, jealous of that X99 board...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Here's a great video by Gabriel at Swiftech:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely cleared up many concerns I had, wished Swiftech did these more often tbh.


That video is from @BramSLI1 actually


----------



## spacetoast31

If people are worried about electric bills, then play outside more often.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> 
> Finished my loop last night and i plan on picking up 2 780 poseidons when my SL 760s are sold.


i just remo . I see you are using the red color plate on your h220x water block . doesn't it look orange when the led light is on ? I switched out the red plate for the white plate because the red plate looking orange when the led light is on . I think your loop would look better with the white plate instead of the red plate because it would match your tubing


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> I made a thread but it was suggested to ask/post here. This will be my loop but I think I am missing something?
> 
> 7990 Water block -
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18495/ex-blc-1412/EK_Radeon_HD_7990_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_Nickel_w_Backplate_EK-FC7990_-_AcetalNickel_incl_Backplate.html
> 
> 240 Radiator -
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13545/ex-rad-262/Swiftech_MCR220-XP_eXtreme_Performance_Dual_120mm_Slim_Radiator_-_MCR220-XP.html
> 
> H220-X Kit -
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25187/ex-wat-327/Swiftech_H220-X_Expandable_All-In-One_Liquid_Cooling_Kit.html
> 
> 6ft Tubing - Not sure how long I need for this cpu/gpu loop?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17582/ex-tub-1571/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_Clear_PFLEXA-58.html
> 
> 4x Barb fittings - Do you need to put clamps to securely lock these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7131/ex-tub-182/Bitspower_Chrome_G38_Barb_Fitting_-_38_ID_BP-WTP-C16.html
> 
> Using distilled water as coolant with the following additives -
> Feser Base Corrosion Blocker - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html
> 
> IandH Biocide -
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
> 
> If there are better components than what I posted (which I'm sure there are), please let me know. Thank you in advance.


i would use compression fittings. if you use barbs you will need to use tube clamps. the choice is yours


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i would use compression fittings. if you use barbs you will need to use tube clamps. the choice is yours


I strongly second that. Compression fittings are much more secure.


----------



## spacetoast31

UGH i thought i was just seeing things. lol i was thinking about the white too. But yea, it does look orange. Just curious... is that light supposed to pulsate as if it were cpu usage or something? or is it supposed to stay one solid light?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Will changing the stock tubes with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD void Swiftech's warranty?

Might just use the H220X as a stand alone CLC for the cpu if no ekwb gpu water blocks are made for the 970.

Don't think the 970s need much cooling anyway, but it would be nice


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i would use compression fittings. if you use barbs you will need to use tube clamps. the choice is yours


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I strongly second that. Compression fittings are much more secure.


I decided to go barbs for now. I will wait till I finish the whole loop so I will know which rotary compression settings I will need









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Will changing the stock tubes with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD void Swiftech's warranty?
> 
> Might just use the H220X as a stand alone CLC for the cpu if no ekwb gpu water blocks are made for the 970.
> 
> Don't think the 970s need much cooling anyway, but it would be nice


+1 on this question. Will it void warranty when you change the tube?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> UGH i thought i was just seeing things. lol i was thinking about the white too. But yea, it does look orange. Just curious... is that light supposed to pulsate as if it were cpu usage or something? or is it supposed to stay one solid light?


It will pulsate if you have the header that the LED for the block is programmed to change speed due to temperature. In other words the header you have the LED plugged into probably is still thinking that it's for a fan. You need to set the header to stay at full speed and then you won't get the pulsating anymore.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> I decided to go barbs for now. I will wait till I finish the whole loop so I will know which rotary compression settings I will need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on this question. Will it void warranty when you change the tube?


No, this won't void your warranty for the kit. These were designed to be expanded and for the parts to be changed out by the customer.


----------



## spacetoast31

I feel like that shouldn't be an issue since their whole selling point is based on being able to modify/customize the loop. So I'd say no but I am not 100%


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, this won't void your warranty for the kit. These were designed to be expanded and for the parts to be changed out by the customer.


As always man, thank you for the quick reply!


----------



## spacetoast31

Lol thanks, you actually beat me to it. Are you able to give any estimate of when there may be on optional adapter for the other fitting? Also, before I swap my flow meter around, which direction is the flow? Which is the inlet/outlet? I assumed this side

Was the outlet and the flow would be going h220x, CPU,flow meter, 360mm rad, drain block, back to the res.
Is that correct?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Lol thanks, you actually beat me to it. Are you able to give any estimate of when there may be on optional adapter for the other fitting? Also, before I swap my flow meter around, which direction is the flow? Which is the inlet/outlet? I assumed this side
> 
> Was the outlet and the flow would be going h220x, CPU,flow meter, 360mm rad, drain block, back to the res.
> Is that correct?


The optional adapter should be available in about a week and the flow starts from the pump outlet.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The optional adapter should be available in about a week and the flow starts from the pump outlet.


Are those only available for purchase or are they going to be sent out to current owners?

Is the outlet, the side that my picture is of? Or the side closer to the res? Because I only ask this since my flow meter isn't registering anything and it has arrows pointing in the direction it needs to be going and made sure when doing the loop that it was correct and even checked again. And its spinning but there is no rpm reading and if tried a couple different headers. So im not sure yet. I'm going to be swapping out all my fans on the 360mm MCR up front next weekend when they get in so I am going to flip it then.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That video is from @BramSLI1 actually


Wait really? BramSLI1 = Gabriel?









I thought Gabe was the CEO?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It will pulsate if you have the header that the LED for the block is programmed to change speed due to temperature. In other words the header you have the LED plugged into probably is still thinking that it's for a fan. You need to set the header to stay at full speed and then you won't get the pulsating anymore.
> No, this won't void your warranty for the kit. These were designed to be expanded and for the parts to be changed out by the customer.


Thank you, should make for a good AIO CLC then.

Yeah I remember reading that the LED needs 100% or else it'll be dimmer.

Follow-up questions for when I end up removing the stock tubes:

What type of coolant/distilled water mix should I put in?
This biocide looks like a good option to mix with the distilled water.
Also, I plan to add some PrimoChill Anti-kink coils, will they work?
Can I add a silver kill coil to the reservoir?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Wait really? BramSLI1 = Gabriel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought Gabe was the CEO?


BramSLI1 = Bryan Ramirez, Swiftech Customer Support Team


----------



## VSG

The channel name doesn't mean the CEO will have to do all the videos


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Follow-up questions for when I end up removing the stock tubes:
> 
> What type of coolant/distilled water mix should I put in?
> This biocide looks like a good option to mix with the distilled water.
> Also, I plan to add some PrimoChill Anti-kink coils, will they work?
> Can I add a silver kill coil to the reservoir?


I actually just made a list of the parts I was getting. If you use Dead water, you don't need silver kill coils but as what other people suggested, it's good to have. Also, when using silver kill coils, make sure you don't have nickel plated blocks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Are those only available for purchase or are they going to be sent out to current owners?
> 
> Is the outlet, the side that my picture is of? Or the side closer to the res? Because I only ask this since my flow meter isn't registering anything and it has arrows pointing in the direction it needs to be going and made sure when doing the loop that it was correct and even checked again. And its spinning but there is no rpm reading and if tried a couple different headers. So im not sure yet. I'm going to be swapping out all my fans on the 360mm MCR up front next weekend when they get in so I am going to flip it then.


The pump sits under the reservoir and the return line just goes back into the radiator. In your picture the outlet is at the top where the pump is located. The fittings will be made available for purchase on our website.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> I actually just made a list of the parts I was getting. If you use Dead water, you don't need silver kill coils but as what other people suggested, it's good to have. Also, when using silver kill coils, make sure you don't have nickel plated blocks.


Would you happen to mind if I borrowed it?

I was reading a few water cooling guides earlier as I checked out some parts on Frozen.

Good to know...hate to have any corrosion by mis-matching metals.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Mayhems has some good advice on their site about how to avoid issues with the use of (theirs obviously) coolants but it helps across the platform too. It isn't only interaction problems like glycol vs. copper sulfate but also sludging and shredding of coolant materials that can cause clogs in reservoirs etc.,

And maybe you know this but there is a Mayhem rep on OCN on a regular basis.

In fact he is the owner of Mayhems.

Good luck.

ACQ


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Lol thanks, you actually beat me to it. Are you able to give any estimate of when there may be on optional adapter for the other fitting?


My advise, don't hold your breath for that adapter. It has been quoted as a week for a month and a half now. Besides it looks like you (and many of us) have already built your loop using 3/8 X 5/8 tubing and fittings. That fitting would best benefit people with existing loops that use odd size fittings and tubing so they don't have to change out everything to use the H220X. At this point I wouldn't even buy and install it despite the fact I changed/ updated all the other H220X fittings. It wouldn't be worth the hassle IMO.


----------



## orndorf77

how much temperature drop can I expect to see if I add a 360mm radiator to my h220x just to cool my cpu ?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

I'm also waiting for the adapter. When I added a 2nd rad I already had 1/2 ID tubing and fittings from a previous build so I'm Using 1/2 all around except pump to block. I considering having a friend scan the original and 3D print a 1/2 version.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how much temperature drop can I expect to see if I add a 360mm radiator to my h220x just to cool my cpu ?


i bought the mcr 360mm extreme performance rad when i bought the h220x so i cant compare to just the h220x but i can say that my 3570 is at 4.5 with 1.27 volts and i sit around 20-25 idle, and 57 with aida64 over night. Those are with stock nzxt fn v2 fans. Which are only 45 cfm ish. with my aerocool DS fans (arriving next week) i am expecting better numbers.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> i bought the mcr 360mm extreme performance rad when i bought the h220x so i cant compare to just the h220x but i can say that my 3570 is at 4.5 with 1.27 volts and i sit around 20-25 idle, and 57 with aida64 over night. Those are with stock nzxt fn v2 fans. Which are only 45 cfm ish. with my aerocool DS fans (arriving next week) i am expecting better numbers.


what was your previous cooler and how does your h220x with your 360mm radiator compare to it ?


----------



## spacetoast31

i had the CM hyper n520, and i think im between 15-20 degrees cooler pretty much all round.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> i had the CM hyper n520, and i think im between 15-20 degrees cooler pretty much all round.


before I got my h220x I had a corsair h100i and my temperatures were 2c cooler with the h100i . I am not upset about it though my temps are still good because I have my chip delidid and I am going to expand the h220x to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli


----------



## ukic

Anyone here uses Swiftech MCR220-XP 240 Radiator? Total length is 280mm but Arc Midi R2 (Front Mount) can only use up to 275mm. Can anyone confirm this? Or can someone suggest me another rad that uses arc midi r2?


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Anyone here uses Swiftech MCR220-XP 240 Radiator? Total length is 280mm but Arc Midi R2 (Front Mount) can only use up to 275mm. Can anyone confirm this? Or can someone suggest me another rad that uses arc midi r2?




It's going to be tight but this should fit as long as XSPC millimeters equal Fractal Design millimeters.

Also check out the Fractal Design water cooling stuff - they have a 240 millimeter rad kit that should fit in one of the their own cases like the Midi R2 (I have an ARC XL and no problem there but the radiator in this kit seems to be only 250mm in length since the kit saves on size due to integrated ports for a kit design.)



Don't get scared by 350 mm measurement - I think that includes the CPU cooler as well and diagram seems to show there is flexibility in the actual configuration of the unit. I do not know if they offer rad-only product.

I would call or write Fractal Design to confirm product offerings and fit - a bit hard to get ahold of FD support but they will get back to you.

ACQ


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Anyone here uses Swiftech MCR220-XP 240 Radiator? Total length is 280mm but Arc Midi R2 (Front Mount) can only use up to 275mm. Can anyone confirm this? Or can someone suggest me another rad that uses arc midi r2?


How did you come up with 280 length? There is 330mm total height from bottom to cage.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Anyone here uses Swiftech MCR220-XP 240 Radiator? Total length is 280mm but Arc Midi R2 (Front Mount) can only use up to 275mm. Can anyone confirm this? Or can someone suggest me another rad that uses arc midi r2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's going to be tight but this should fit as long as XSPC millimeters equal Fractal Design millimeters.
> 
> Also check out the Fractal Design water cooling stuff - they have a 240 millimeter rad kit that should fit in one of the their own cases like the Midi R2 (I have an ARC XL and no problem there but the radiator in this kit seems to be only 250mm in length since the kit saves on size due to integrated ports for a kit design.)
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get scared by 350 mm measurement - I think that includes the CPU cooler as well and diagram seems to show there is flexibility in the actual configuration of the unit. I do not know if they offer rad-only product.
> 
> I would call or write Fractal Design to confirm product offerings and fit - a bit hard to get ahold of FD support but they will get back to you.
> 
> ACQ
Click to expand...




That measurement is the package (box it comes in) Clearly shows that . As you look it tells you what the rad is.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark*
> 
> It's going to be tight but this should fit as long as XSPC millimeters equal Fractal Design millimeters.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How did you come up with 280 length? There is 330mm total height from bottom to cage.
> 
> That measurement is the package (box it comes in) Clearly shows that . As you look it tells you what the rad is.


I think you guys got the wrong rad. I am talking about Swiftech MCR220-XP


EDIT: Posted the wrong case. Sorry.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

That is the Mini R2, not the Midi R2.
Those are different cases.


----------



## dreameer111

Can anyone tell me why my fan splitter does not work properly?

I plugged the fan splitter 2 pin into the cpu_fan header on the motherboard, then the pump into channel 1 on the splitter, then the two helix fans on the next two headers on the splitter.
I get a cpu fan error and the bios does not show the rpm of the fan. However if I plug the pump of the h220x or helix fans into the cpu_fan header, it works fine and shows the rpm.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is the Mini R2, not the Midi R2.
> Those are different cases.


Yeah, I realized that







so I guess I am in the clear?









EDIT: Reason I was asking to anyone who owns the midi r2 was to verify. Like the mini r2 specs in their site, midi r2 specs wasn't specified.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Can anyone tell me why my fan splitter does not work properly?


By yourcells description wecells wonder if youcells forgot to connect the splitter SATA or Molex power cable to the power supply?

That would explain why the devices on the splitter won't work, as they don't have access to the +12V power rail.

The 4-pin (2-wires) cable of the splitter transfer only the PWM and RPM signals to and from the splitter. It misses the +12V and ground wires.

If though the devices on the splitter are running and the SATA/Molex power cable is connected to the power supply, then the only reason that the motherboard doesn't get the RPM signal from the CHA 1 is that the RPM signal transfer route from the CHA 1 connector to the 4-pin fan connector of the splitter is cut somewhere.

The possibilities are:
The CHA 1 fan connector RPM pin on the splitter PCB is not soldered.
The 4-pin (2-wires) cable RPM cable is not soldered to the splitter PCB.
The 4-pin (2-wires) fan connector has the plastic wire cover between it's RPM signal copper wire core and it's pressure jointed pin of the 4-pin connector.
Or the RPM signal wire is cut somewhere between the splitter and the 4-pin fan connector.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> before I got my h220x I had a corsair h100i and my temperatures were 2c cooler with the h100i . I am not upset about it though my temps are still good because I have my chip delidid and I am going to expand the h220x to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli


At some point, someone is sure to figure out what is going wrong here.....I'm still thinking your mount doesn't have enough pressure due to your delidding.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> At some point, someone is sure to figure out what is going wrong here.....I'm still thinking your mount doesn't have enough pressure due to your delidding.


yeah even a 16th of an inch is a lot when you are talking heat transfer contact


----------



## psyclist

Hey guys, My H220X is on its way! upgrading from an H100i. I currently have 2 290X's in CF one has a DWood Bracket with a Antec620 AIO mounted on it. the other is a GB windforce. I would like to keep the AIO on the one card, but expand the H220X to cool the other 290X.

I am looking at using a Swiftech MCW82 (on for $30) on that card in conjunction with a VRM cooling kit as its about $80 cheaper and the block is universal. What do you guys think? Also trying to figure out rad mounting, I have a line on a ek coolstream XTX 120 rad (64mm) for $20. Would that be enough for the 4930K and the 290X? my Case is a 760T so fairly large, I have one set of drive cages in it, so I think the front is a little limited.

Im just trying to figure out the best course of action here and am a bit of a noob when it comes to water.


----------



## Yvese

Just installed my H220X. Can anyone tell me how exactly do I remove the 4 screws to change the LED color? Do you need some special screw driver to do it? I tried removing/turning it by hand, screwdriver, and even pliers. I've also tried pushing down on them but they just wont budge. The installation guide makes it seem like you can just pop it off but that's not the case for mine.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Just installed my H220X. Can anyone tell me how exactly do I remove the 4 screws to change the LED color? Do you need some special screw driver to do it? I tried removing/turning it by hand, screwdriver, and even pliers. I've also tried pushing down on them but they just wont budge. The installation guide makes it seem like you can just pop it off but that's not the case for mine.


Watch the HTL video, it is done on camera -


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Watch the HTL video, it is done on camera -


Yea I've watched that video. Unfortunately mine does not just pop off like that one. Like.. if I grab onto it and just pull or turn, it doesn't budge.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Yea I've watched that video. Unfortunately mine does not just pop off like that one. Like.. if I grab onto it and just pull or turn, it doesn't budge.


I used a small jewelers screwdriver on mine... easiest to do before it's installed


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecpu*
> 
> I swear I look hard to find the coolant in the clear window, but I find nothing. Anyway, is there any instruction how to refill the coolant and what kind a coolant needed to be use, I found nothing in the manual.


What are your temps?


----------



## Morpheen

When mounting the 240L on a Hero VI am I supposed to remove the clamp for the CPU? The one that clamps down and houses the processor? I can't tell if mine is mounted correctly and my temps fluctuate constantly. Every half second or so the temp varies by as much as 10C according to HWMonitor and CoreTemp.


----------



## orndorf77

I am new to custom water loops and I need help . I want to expand my h220x by adding a 360mm radiator just to cool my cpu . how will I have to install the tubing ? will it be a tube going from the water block to the new radiator and another tube going from the new radiator to the pump ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am new to custom water loops and I need help . I want to expand my h220x by adding a 360mm radiator just to cool my cpu . how will I have to install the tubing ? will it be a tube going from the water block to the new radiator and another tube going from the new radiator to the pump ?


order of loop generally doesnt matter. pick whatever route is the shortest as it requires the least amount of time to bleed(and is the least wasteful in tubing length). the only requirement generally is that its preferred to have the reservoir feed into the pump, but with the h220, that should generally always be the case.

tl;dr it doesnt matter. pick your own route for aesthetics or saving on total tubing length


----------



## Caffinator

has anyone tried putting on white tubes?


----------



## spacetoast31

White tubes for ya! I bought the swoftech ones since I just ordered it all direct from them.


----------



## icecpu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> What are your temps?


1 max core is 86C, the rest is like under 80C . That's after 2 hours of stress test realbench or aida64.
5820K is at 4.4GHz 1.285v


----------



## ukic

For gpu water block, 1 in 1 out, do you need to buy covers for the other side of the fitting?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> For gpu water block, 1 in 1 out, do you need to buy covers for the other side of the fitting?


normally, gpu vendors should be giving you 2 caps to cover the two unused holes.


----------



## spacetoast31

Ok, i have the z77 sabertooth, I cannot figure out what i have to change to get the connector to stay at 100% so my block is always illuminated... what setting? its on CHA fan 3


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Ok, i have the z77 sabertooth, I cannot figure out what i have to change to get the connector to stay at 100% so my block is always illuminated... what setting? its on CHA fan 3


try connecting the light to the 8 fan spliter that came with the h220x . I have the light connected to cpu 1 fan header and I have the pump connected to my 8 fan spliter and I have my 8 fan spliter connected to cpu 2 fan header


----------



## spacetoast31

I actually just figured it out like 15 min ago Lol. The bios had the speed monitoring settings turned totostandard, I had to do manual and change the minimum to 100 as bram had states. Works perfect! And the same area got my flow meter reading as well! So now I know my h220x is pushing almost 400 LPH with an additional 360mm radiator


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How did you come up with 280 length? There is 330mm total height from bottom to cage.
> That measurement is the package (box it comes in) Clearly shows that . As you look it tells you what the rad is.


I have that rad and it basically same size as th swiftch one that comes with the h220


----------



## spacetoast31

I think my thermal paste is settling now.

3570k @4.5 1.25v stock ST h220x fans, and 6 nzxt fan v2 45 cfm fans in push pull on the MCR 320 xp.

Idle temps are sitting around 18-20*c flow is around 390 LPH based on the alphacoolalphacool rpm conversion chart for my flow meter.


----------



## undeadhunter

Still waiting..... g1/4....adapter.....pump.....lol..... but srsly is it coming out for real?


----------



## spacetoast31

It would come in handy for us to be able to use a 90* fitting instead of the 45 it has, and then we could put an extra fan in that position on the underside of the radiator.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *undeadhunter*
> 
> Still waiting..... g1/4....adapter.....pump.....lol..... but srsly is it coming out for real?


We will be adding them to the website either today or tomorrow. We have them here now and we just need to add them to the website to allow purchasing.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We will be adding them to the website either today or tomorrow. We have them here now and we just need to add them to the website to allow purchasing.


any idea on price? Ugh, ive had so many boxes delivered in the last 2 weeks, i think the ups and usps guys hate me.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I'm curious, was it ever confirmed that Glacer 360L will not ever be releasing?


----------



## undeadhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We will be adding them to the website either today or tomorrow. We have them here now and we just need to add them to the website to allow purchasing.


Awesome! Thanks!


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> any idea on price? Ugh, ive had so many boxes delivered in the last 2 weeks, i think the ups and usps guys hate me.


I think most OCNers fit into that category so you're not alone!


----------



## VSG

rofl I just had an actual crate delivered to me, and the USPS guy gave me a dirty look


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> normally, gpu vendors should be giving you 2 caps to cover the two unused holes.


Cool, thanks man









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> rofl I just had an actual crate delivered to me, and the USPS guy gave me a dirty look


Lol! About 2 hours ago, ups guy delivered something and said "you slowed down huh?" and I replied nah, I'm using FEDEX now! UPS GUY: "That's low blow man..."


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Cool, thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol! About 2 hours ago, ups guy delivered something and said "you slowed down huh?" and I replied nah, I'm using FEDEX now! UPS GUY: "That's low blow man..."


Would rep ups guy irl


----------



## emsj86

So how is the mcp50x does it need a heat sink? Can it be mounted to swiftech reservior? And can it handle a cpu gpu loop and two rads. Thank you.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So how is the mcp50x does it need a heat sink? Can it be mounted to swiftech reservior? And can it handle a cpu gpu loop and two rads. Thank you.


The included pump in the 220x can do that


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So how is the mcp50x does it need a heat sink? Can it be mounted to swiftech reservior? And can it handle a cpu gpu loop and two rads. Thank you.


Doesn't need heatsink. Can be mounted to Swiftech's tube res or bay res. It will handle a loop that size easily.


----------



## VSG

^ Depends on the rads but 9 times out of 10 it will be fine.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Doesn't need heatsink. Can be mounted to Swiftech's tube res or bay res. It will handle a loop that size easily.


Maybe a dumb question but than how is the res mount by res clips? Or one of those fan mounts. I have a glacer240l and it works with what I got great but I got the itch for the near future going with a ek clear cpu block and res and pump. One for the future two for looks of course. Here's what I have now


----------



## emsj86




----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> For gpu water block, 1 in 1 out, do you need to buy covers for the other side of the fitting?


EK supplies two nickel plated flush mount allen plugs with their blocks. Typically rads, and reservoirs also come with extra plugs, which don't count as "fittings". But if you want uniformity with your fittings or a color scheme it is best to order your own plugs. I buy Bitspower low profile matte black plugs for my components, they are reasonably priced...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Maybe a dumb question but than how is the res mount by res clips? Or one of those fan mounts. I have a glacer240l and it works with what I got great but I got the itch for the near future going with a ek clear cpu block and res and pump. One for the future two for looks of course. Here's what I have now


On my phone... Go on swiftech's site and look at their 35x res, it mounts directly to the 50x.

Or you can use almost any tube res you want by attaching the pump to the bottom of the RES with a male to male G1/4" adapter.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I got the reservoir installed and the led put in it doesn't have the lighting effect I thought it would as the deep threads give a flashlight effect. The res makes bleeding 100 times easier. ..I think I'm gonna try to find a blue piece of plastic maybe saran wrap like to cover res to make it match a little better


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I got the reservoir installed and the led put in it doesn't have the lighting effect I thought it would as the deep threads give a flashlight effect. The res makes bleeding 100 times easier. ..


What res do you have there and would mind posting a picture of it and the pc with the lights on. Nice job I like it


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What res do you have there and would mind posting a picture of it and the pc with the lights on. Nice job I like it


I have the alphacool cape Corp 10 lt 100mm...I'll post a picture in a moment I still have some tidying to do with shortening tubes but I need a fill tube and drain tube first...


----------



## BenJaminJr

Yeah please post a few pics with the lights on

Edit: Got ninja'd


----------



## springs113

To the person asking about asking about the *MCP50X* it definitely can handle all you mentioned and then some. I currently have it controlling 3 oc'd 290s, 2 54mm+(360) rads and an oc 5930k(4.6). Temps are great all throughout my system, max stress test yield mid 70s on the processor and highest gpu in the mid 60s.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> To the person asking about asking about the *MCP50X* it definitely can handle all you mentioned and then some. I currently have it controlling 3 oc'd 290s, 2 54mm+ rads and an oc 5930k(4.6). Temps are great all throughout my system, max stress test yield mid 70s on the processor and highest gpu in the mid 60s.


Very nice. Question and I may just be crazy but seeing the glacer pump is not far off from the mcp35. ( or so I heard may not be true). Could I get a ek block polish it (for looks) and hide my Pump in the drive cages below my reservior. May be a waste but than again if it ever goes I just buy a new pump. Edit: in sure my wife would wanna kill me too do maybe I wait save for my next build on the next set of Gpus.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Very nice. Question and I may just be crazy but seeing the glacer pump is not far off from the mcp35. ( or so I heard may not be true). Could I get a ek block polish it (for looks) and hide my Pump in the drive cages below my reservior. May be a waste but than again if it ever goes I just buy a new pump. Edit: in sure my wife would wanna kill me too do maybe I wait save for my next build on the next set of Gpus.


You could do that without a problem.

Can't help you with the wife issue....


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I got the reservoir installed and the led put in it doesn't have the lighting effect I thought it would as the deep threads give a flashlight effect. The res makes bleeding 100 times easier. I think I'm gonna try to find a blue piece of plastic maybe saran wrap like to cover res to make it match a little better


That is great about the reservoir. I have broken down and changed my loop 5 times now, and I will have to do it again when my EK 980 WB comes in. I just couldn't imagine bleeding my loop without a second res. I have the luxury of being able to fill my loop with my other pump too. It just makes it less daunting to make changes to the loop. Bleeding still takes a few days to totally clear the H220X of air. It is evident with the audible water in the pump/rad area of the unit.

I have been suggesting to other members that they add another reservoir for several weeks now. I am glad that you now have a good example to cite. My system has an additional pump/res so it's a little different. Thanks for posting.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> That is great about the reservoir. I have broken down and changed my loop 5 times now, and I will have to do it again when my EK 980 WB comes in. I just couldn't imagine bleeding my loop without a second res. I have the luxury of being able to fill my loop with my other pump too. It just makes it less daunting to make changes to the loop. Bleeding still takes a few days to totally clear the H220X of air. It is evident with the audible water in the pump/rad area of the unit.
> 
> I have been suggesting to other members that they add another reservoir for several weeks now. I am glad that you now have a good example to cite. My system has an additional pump/res so it's a little different. Thanks for posting.


yeah I initially wanted to do a pump res combo for redundancy but I can add a second pump pretty easily to the bottom of that res as I have room and the wonderful plate that comes with the enthoo pro has the proper mounting holes so easy change later.... the big changes will come later in the form of another 360 or 480 rad and a nice single gpu with block but I will have to find another mounting solution for my h220x or buy dual pumps and migrate the h220x to my other rig... but yeah it took me about 1/10th the time bleeding this time even without a fill port and having to unmount the h220x for its fill port than it did with h220x alone would have been nice if the fill port was located elsewhere but I guess that was best place so people are less likely to burn up their pumps









Took me about two hours total as the xspc fittings actually contact each other slightly with the grip on the collar so i had to tediously turn them a little at a time but they worked and no leaks so that's always a plus. About 45 minutes or so was bleeding/filling...so not too time consuming and was wayyyy cheaper on the wallet than quick disconnects


----------



## emsj86

Yeh I use the single xspc res. and yet it my the most appealing makes it very easy bc if you keepnitnin the too optical bay it's above your cpu/pump. You just leave skittle slack to have the fill port sticking out and fill it up. First time I messed up by not having it above the punk causing to have to move the pc all around. But now it's so simple.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Very nice. Question and I may just be crazy but seeing the glacer pump is not far off from the mcp35. ( or so I heard may not be true). Could I get a ek block polish it (for looks) and hide my Pump in the drive cages below my reservior. May be a waste but than again if it ever goes I just buy a new pump. Edit: in sure my wife would wanna kill me too do maybe I wait save for my next build on the next set of Gpus.


What do you mean by polish it? The bottom copper or nickel is already polished and you won't even see it. If you're talking about the top being frosted/circles then they sell the Clean CSQ which I use that is already clear/clean.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I initially wanted to do a pump res combo for redundancy but I can add a second pump pretty easily to the bottom of that res as I have room and the wonderful plate that comes with the enthoo pro has the proper mounting holes so easy change later.... the big changes will come later in the form of another 360 or 480 rad and a nice single gpu with block but I will have to find another mounting solution for my h220x or buy dual pumps and migrate the h220x to my other rig... but yeah it took me about 1/10th the time bleeding this time even without a fill port and having to unmount the h220x for its fill port than it did with h220x alone would have been nice if the fill port was located elsewhere but I guess that was best place so people are less likely to burn up their pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me about two hours total as the xspc fittings actually contact each other slightly with the grip on the collar so i had to tediously turn them a little at a time but they worked and no leaks so that's always a plus. About 45 minutes or so was bleeding/filling...so not too time consuming and was wayyyy cheaper on the wallet than quick disconnects


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What do you mean by polish it? The bottom copper or nickel is already polished and you won't even see it. If you're talking about the top being frosted/circles then they sell the Clean CSQ which I use that is already clear/clean.


I did not know they did. That's whatbi meant polish the frost but if they have a clear than I can feel my money exiting my wallet


----------



## ukic

I know the H220X kit uses barb fittings, how many fittings total can you replace with compression fittings? 3? 1 from rad, 2 for cpu water block?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah I initially wanted to do a pump res combo for redundancy but I can add a second pump pretty easily to the bottom of that res as I have room and the wonderful plate that comes with the enthoo pro has the proper mounting holes so easy change later.... the big changes will come later in the form of another 360 or 480 rad and a nice single gpu with block but I will have to find another mounting solution for my h220x or buy dual pumps and migrate the h220x to my other rig... but yeah it took me about 1/10th the time bleeding this time even without a fill port and having to unmount the h220x for its fill port than it did with h220x alone would have been nice if the fill port was located elsewhere but I guess that was best place so people are less likely to burn up their pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me about two hours total as the xspc fittings actually contact each other slightly with the grip on the collar so i had to tediously turn them a little at a time but they worked and no leaks so that's always a plus. About 45 minutes or so was bleeding/filling...so not too time consuming and was wayyyy cheaper on the wallet than quick disconnects


Yeah, it definitely varies system to system, but the H220X is tough to fill and bleed if it's the only pump/res in the loop. I didn't design my loop with two pumps, it just turned out that way. It is an excellent/ cooler and at a great price, but it does have that one flaw. It's always better to design your loop so it's easy to maintain. Because your more likely to make changes and adjustments if it is easy. If it is a pain in the balls you'll be less inclined to maintain it as frequently, or to make small changes.

It's kinda too bad that Swiftech didn't make an inverted version with the reservior on the left hand side. That way it could be front mounted vertically and have the full port facing up. This would make bleeding it super easy and it would make the fill port more accessible. It would also make mounting it in the front of a case more attractive. If that were the case I may have mounted mine in the front of my 350D and put a thicker rad in the roof. But it is what it is, for now at least.


----------



## blackend

does h220x fit in corsair 240 air?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> I know the H220X kit uses barb fittings, how many fittings total can you replace with compression fittings? 3? 1 from rad, 2 for cpu water block?


Yep, and the rad/res fitting should be an elbow. The two on the block can be angled (rotary) or straight. The supplied fittings aren't the best quality, but they swivel and are usable if needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> does h220x fit in corsair 240 air?


Only in the front I believe, so it would have to be mounted with the res facing downwards. Doable, but difficult to bleed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yeah, it definitely varies system to system, but the H220X is tough to fill and bleed if it's the only pump/res in the loop. I didn't design my loop with two pumps, it just turned out that way. It is an excellent/ cooler and at a great price, but it does have that one flaw. It's always better to design your loop so it's easy to maintain. Because your more likely to make changes and adjustments if it is easy. If it is a pain in the balls you'll be less inclined to maintain it as frequently, or to make small changes.
> 
> It's kinda too bad that Swiftech didn't make an inverted version with the reservior on the left hand side. That way it could be front mounted vertically and have the full port facing up. This would make bleeding it super easy and it would make the fill port more accessible. It would also make mounting it in the front of a case more attractive. If that were the case I may have mounted mine in the front of my 350D and put a thicker rad in the roof. But it is what it is, for now at least.


I was trying to surmise a good way to mount mine above that 280 in the bottom.. it almost fit vertical but needed a custom bracket.... plus now I would need a place for the res also but that would've left the top open for w/e rad I wanted....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I did not know they did. That's whatbi meant polish the frost but if they have a clear than I can feel my money exiting my wallet


The new Supremacy EVO and the original Supremacy both have the option for clean top, no circles or frost. It's a very nice block, love mine.


----------



## 1M4TO

i cannot find a reseller for the swiftech h220x in europe.. any suggestion?


----------



## NIKKO02

hello

For h220x in europe

http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html

I want to know if the mcp50x can replace mcp30 in h220x ?, i want to add a second gpu in the loop ( h220x + cpu+ rad 360 + 2*komodo 7970 ) and i think the origin pump is not ok ???
Sorry for my english , i m french

Regards


----------



## springs113

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIKKO02*
> 
> hello
> 
> For h220x in europe
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html
> 
> I want to know if the mcp50x can replace mcp30 in h220x ?, i want to add a second gpu in the loop ( h220x + rad 360 + 2*komodo 7970 ) and i think the origin pump is not ok ???
> Sorry for my english , i m french
> 
> Regards


don't think it can be done but for anyone looking for a swiftech alternative for the 220x is to get the mcp50x and that apogee xl granted you would still need a rad. I can assure you that the combination I listed above works great. I will use the 220 n x version in conjunction on my next 900d build update.


----------



## NIKKO02

thank you for your answer

In this page http://www.overclock.net/t/1504224/first-timer-expanding-a-h220x/20
bryan say :

" As for the second question, yes, the new MCP50X can be used as an upgrade to the pump in the H220X. However, the decision has been made that taking apart the MCP50X will void your warranty. I'm sorry about that."

if i understand correctly mcp50x can work in h220 x???


----------



## DoooX

Any info on that adapter for the rad they mentioned before, for the 220X ? Did they started shipping with the adapter included in the package itself or you have to buy it separately ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Any info on that adapter for the rad they mentioned before, for the 220X ? Did they started shipping with the adapter included in the package itself or you have to buy it separately ?


Bram has said separately... not sure if it will be included in kit later. .


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Bram has said separately... not sure if it will be included in kit later. .


Is it only required for changing the tubing for some bigger diameter(1/2") ? Or if you want to put any other type of tubing completely ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Is it only required for changing the tubing for some bigger diameter(1/2") ? Or if you want to put any other type of tubing completely ?


you can use any 3/8 ID 5/8 OD with current fittings. The adapter is for using g1/4 fitting on the outlet of the pump. I replaced my tubing with same diameter because I didn't want to wait...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIKKO02*
> 
> thank you for your answer
> 
> In this page http://www.overclock.net/t/1504224/first-timer-expanding-a-h220x/20
> bryan say :
> 
> " As for the second question, yes, the new MCP50X can be used as an upgrade to the pump in the H220X. However, the decision has been made that taking apart the MCP50X will void your warranty. I'm sorry about that."
> 
> if i understand correctly mcp50x can work in h220 x???


Yes, the MCP50X can work as an upgrade to the MCP30 in the H220X kit. You will lose your warranty though because opening these pumps does void the warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Any info on that adapter for the rad they mentioned before, for the 220X ? Did they started shipping with the adapter included in the package itself or you have to buy it separately ?


We should have the adapters available in the next day or two at the most. They're here and they just need to be added to the website. To the best of my knowledge you will need to purchase them separately. There aren't any plans as of right now to include them in the kits. They're only needed if you're going to change out the fittings and the adapter is only for the pump outlet as that's the only port that isn't a G 1/4. One last thing, the H240X kits are here. We will be adding them to the website for purchase shortly. That is all.


----------



## VSG

For those interested, I did a "small" review of the MCP50X: www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/0_50


----------



## NIKKO02

thank's for reply and for the review

Bryan can you think it 's possible for the mcp30 to work with 2*gpu , 1 cpu and 1 rad 360 or it 's necessery to upgrade with mcp50x ? and i don't find mcp50x in europe , can you help me ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIKKO02*
> 
> thank's for reply and for the review
> 
> Bryan can you think it 's possible for the mcp30 to work with 2*gpu , 1 cpu and 1 rad 360 or it 's necessery to upgrade with mcp50x ? and i don't find mcp50x in europe , can you help me ?


The MCP30 should be able to handle that loop. I don't think our MCP50X has been released in Europe yet. It will likely be another 3 weeks to a month before you're able to purchase it from one of our resellers there.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H240X kits are here. We will be adding them to the website for purchase shortly. That is all.


Don't see it on the product page yet. Got link for specs?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Don't see it on the product page yet. Got link for specs?


No, but it will be up on the product page shortly. It's basically the exact same thing as the 220X, just with a larger radiator to accommodate two 140mm fans.


----------



## 1M4TO

can the mcp35x replace the original pump in the h220x?
i have an apogee drive 2 atm, but i went from 4770k to 5820k and i have to get the drive 2 2011 waterblock and im undecided if to go with h220x or just get the waterblock, but i know i will loose warranty on the 115x apogee drive 2 and i dont like this idea that much..
I m thinking also to sell everything and get the photon combo that looks pretty convincing to me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1M4TO*
> 
> can the mcp35x replace the original pump in the h220x?
> i have an apogee drive 2 atm, but i went from 4770k to 5820k and i have to get the drive 2 2011 waterblock and im undecided if to go with h220x or just get the waterblock, but i know i will loose warranty on the 115x apogee drive 2 and i dont like this idea that much..
> I m thinking also to sell everything and get the photon combo that looks pretty convincing to me.


No, unfortunately not. The MCP35X is based on the Laing DDC pump. The MCP30 pump in the H220X is our own design and the two of them are not interchangeable.


----------



## [email protected]

ANNOUNCEMENT 

Sometimes today, I will release the H240-X for sale in the United states.

The first order received from a consumer on our web site will be .. FREE  all you will be charged for is shipping.

So keep an eye on our web site 

Gabriel Rouchon
Chairman, CTA
Swiftech


----------



## navit

Sweet


----------



## VSG

How do we find out if we are the first? Only after the order is done? I'd love to be the lucky one


----------



## Avonosac

Clearly the point is that you have to order it, not that someone just gets a free unit, lol.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Clearly the point is that you have to order it, not that someone just gets a free unit, lol.


Exactly.


----------



## VSG

lol I figured as much, still a good incentive for buyers


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, but it will be up on the product page shortly. It's basically the exact same thing as the 220X, just with a larger radiator to accommodate two 140mm fans.


Waaaaaaaa! ordered H220-X 2 days ago. Hopefully they will cancel it so I can order the H240-X


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ANNOUNCEMENT
> 
> Sometimes today, I will release the H240-X for sale in the United states.
> 
> The first order received from a consumer on our web site will be .. FREE  all you will be charged for is shipping.
> 
> So keep an eye on our web site
> 
> Gabriel Rouchon
> Chairman, CTA
> Swiftech


Darn, I guess I will have to buy a new keyboard. My F5 key is going to need a replacement.


----------



## Avonosac

Where else did gabe post this? It's going to be a forum race!


----------



## JackieTran

If I try to use the waterblock as a standalone pump, by drilling out the pins (http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/swiftech-h220-34.jpg?w=614&h=515) would it increase the flow?


----------



## Gavush

The H240-X is now available.


----------



## Gavush

Did anyone else order one? I'm not sure if I was first... I checked before I went into the store and about 5min later when I came out and proceeded to order frantically via my phone. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.


----------



## [email protected]

STOP ORDERING WE'RE OUT OF STOCK ALREADY !!!!!

Just kidding 

Since the last thing I want is to be accused of being a greedy dude, I'll announce right now who the happy winner is









CONGRATULATIONS TO NICHOLAS OF WHITE BLUFF TENNESSEE FOR PLACING THE FIRST ORDER (#7520) !!!
Nick, please contact [email protected] to make sure she zeroes out your cost of product.
I hope you'll enjoy using it as much as we enjoyed making it !


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> STOP ORDERING WE'RE OUT OF STOCK ALREADY !!!!!
> 
> Just kidding
> 
> Since the last thing I want is to be accused of being a greedy dude, I'll announce right now who the happy winner is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CONGRATULATIONS TO NICHOLAS OF WHITE BLUFF TENNESSEE FOR PLACING THE FIRST ORDER (#7520) !!!
> Nick, please contact [email protected] to make sure she zeroes out your cost of product.
> I hope you'll enjoy using it as much as we enjoyed making it !


Hahaha







for the sweet releases.

I'm sure a lot of people on OCN and in this thread in particular will be looking to getting our hands on one soon.


----------



## undeadhunter

Does the h240x include the pump g1/4 adapter? is it up in the site yet?


----------



## mossberg385t

Has anyone put the h220x in a Fractal Define R4?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *undeadhunter*
> 
> Does the h240x include the pump g1/4 adapter? is it up in the site yet?


The descriptions says the pump adapter is optional and available in the accessories section (not that I searched hard, but couldn't find it). So are the accompanying fans Helix 140 PWMs? They aren't listed on the website either- only 140mm fans listed are 3 pin versions.


----------



## undeadhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The descriptions says the pump adapter is optional and available in the accessories section (not that I searched hard, but couldn't find it). So are the accompanying fans Helix 140 PWMs? They aren't listed on the website either- only 140mm fans listed are 3 pin versions.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mossberg385t*
> 
> Has anyone put the h220x in a Fractal Define R4?


Yes, it fits. Now im looking at the 240x tho...


----------



## mossberg385t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Yes, it fits. Now im looking at the 240x tho...


I had a hell of a time fitting a kraken x61 in an R4, I would imagine the 240x may not fair much better.

Asus P9x79 LE, PS2 ports blocked the rear corner of the rad... smh... PS2 ports in 2014 on enthusiast board


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mossberg385t*
> 
> I had a hell of a time fitting a kraken x61 in an R4, I would imagine the 240x may not fair much better.
> 
> Asus P9x79 LE, PS2 ports blocked the rear corner of the rad... smh... PS2 ports in 2014 on enthusiast board


Pic?


----------



## Mrreks

Would the pump on the h220 be strong enough for 670 and an extra 120mm rad or extra 240mm rad?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> CONGRATULATIONS TO NICHOLAS OF WHITE BLUFF TENNESSEE FOR PLACING THE FIRST ORDER (#7520) !!!
> Nick, please contact [email protected] to make sure she zeroes out your cost of product.
> I hope you'll enjoy using it as much as we enjoyed making it !


Awesome! You guys are so cool - I'm blown away by your company's involvement with your customers. I'll do my best to document it's unboxing and installation.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

I wonder if the H240x will fit in an obsidian 350D.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrreks*
> 
> Would the pump on the h220 be strong enough for 670 and an extra 120mm rad or extra 240mm rad?


yes I had the original running an oc 4770k, oc 780 with a ut60 420 rad, ek rev2 120 rad along with a tube res.


----------



## msgclb

What I want to know is will the H240-X fit in the Obsidian 650D.

Another thing I'm curious about is the coolant input to the reservoir.

I haven't seen a better image but how does the fluid flow from that narrow side into the reservoir?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The descriptions says the pump adapter is optional and available in the accessories section (not that I searched hard, but couldn't find it). So are the accompanying fans Helix 140 PWMs? They aren't listed on the website either- only 140mm fans listed are 3 pin versions.


We'll have the adapter sold separately on our website shortly. We have them here and just need to add them to the website. The fans that are used on this kit are our new PWM version of the Helix 140. These fans aren't available separately yet, but we will be adding them shortly.


----------



## VSG

140mm PWM fans are always good to hear about


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> If I try to use the waterblock as a standalone pump, by drilling out the pins (http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/swiftech-h220-34.jpg?w=614&h=515) would it increase the flow?


bump.


----------



## bce22

One day after I order the H220x they release the h240x. I Wish I knew that at the time. Probably my own fault. It's not like I don't have the space fore the 240x with my 900D case. I should probably return the package and pick up the bigger one.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> bump.


I have no idea because we've never done anything like that before. Doing so would also void your warranty and is therefore not recommended.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have no idea because we've never done anything like that before. Doing so would also void your warranty and is therefore not recommended.


I bought this second hand so I no longer have warranty







.

In theory it should work right? I'm up for experimenting


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackieTran*
> 
> I bought this second hand so I no longer have warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> In theory it should work right? I'm up for experimenting


In theory it should work. How well though remains to be seen. Good luck and I'd appreciate an update on how it works out.


----------



## JackieTran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In theory it should work. How well though remains to be seen. Good luck and I'd appreciate an update on how it works out.


Ill have to get a flow meter first


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> What I want to know is will the H240-X fit in the Obsidian 650D.
> 
> Another thing I'm curious about is the coolant input to the reservoir.
> I haven't seen a better image but how does the fluid flow from that narrow side into the reservoir?


there is a thin channel that goes in about 5/8 of an inch and up to the fill port into the res/rad. It goes into rad where the line is circulates thru the rad to the top where fill port is into res and back out.... it seems to increase the flow rate a bit due to the restriction.... which can't be bad


----------



## quick1unc

I just got my H220-X for my new X99 build, I wish I had known about the 240, I plan on adding my 2 970's to the loop when the blocks come out, would it be worthwhile to get the 240?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> I just got my H220-X for my new X99 build, I wish I had known about the 240, I plan on adding my 2 970's to the loop when the blocks come out, would it be worthwhile to get the 240?


Either way you will need to add a radiator with the 2 GPU in the loop, so it won't be as large of a difference as if you were doing a standalone.


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Either way you will need to add a radiator with the 2 GPU in the loop, so it won't be as large of a difference as if you were doing a standalone.


So you think I'd be ok keeping the 220-x instead of trying to get rid of it for the 240? I'm new to watercooling other than your standard AIO's like the h100i which I have in my old pc. What all will I need to run this i7-5930k and 2 970's efficiently for overclocking, not trying to do crazy overclocks but a solid 24/7 overclock all the way around.


----------



## EarlZ

Hi Bram,

Is the H240-X's radiator thicker than the H220X? I am thinking of getting that one instead since I might include my GPU on in the future..


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> What I want to know is will the H240-X fit in the Obsidian 650D.
> 
> Another thing I'm curious about is the coolant input to the reservoir.
> I haven't seen a better image but how does the fluid flow from that narrow side into the reservoir?


Ive been wondering about the same thing..


----------



## NIK1

Any one know if the H240x will fit in a Cooler master Cosmos 2 case. I have a corsair h110 in it now mounted up top.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> So you think I'd be ok keeping the 220-x instead of trying to get rid of it for the 240? I'm new to watercooling other than your standard AIO's like the h100i which I have in my old pc. What all will I need to run this i7-5930k and 2 970's efficiently for overclocking, not trying to do crazy overclocks but a solid 24/7 overclock all the way around.


Definitely, just get a nice and thick 2nd rad for your loop. I used to run 2 GTX 770s and a i5 4670K (4.7 @1.85V) with only another 240mm (x54mm thick) rad and temps were great. The 970 should run even cooler than the 770s did so you'd be fine. The difference between the H220X and 240X wouldn't ammount to much difference if any.

My EK block for my 980 comes tomorrow. What blocks are you going to use with the 970? Did EK release theirs yet?


----------



## quick1unc

here's a few pics of my new X99 build. I am liking the H220-X so far, the 5930k seems to run warmer than my previous cpu's so the idle temps are a lil higher than I'm used to. OCCT says about 38C per core just browsing the web. I have the 2 MSI 970's that I want to liquid cool as soon as the waterblocks become available. I've got 2 Noctua PWM 120's in the front pulling in air, the 220-x pulling and then a back 140mm exhausting. Not sure if this is the best setup. I wanted the 2 front fans to help move more air across the GPU's until I can get liquid on them.


----------



## quick1unc

BTW I moved the fans up into the housing after that pic was taken, so I have more clearance above the mobo now.


----------



## Heavymetals

I am completely and totally disappointed in Cooler Master.

My first Glacer 240L was advanced RMAed 12/16/13 for a leaking mangled radiator out of the box.
Six months later on 5/21/14 I contacted Cooler Master about the second 240L's pump dying. It had been acting up for about three weeks before it gave out. At that point of contact I had to register on Cooler Master's new fan/support website since they did away with the old one I was already registered on. It took almost 30 minutes for the rep to dig up and get everything straighten out with my old info. He told me I should be getting an email with RMA number and label. I shelved the unit after seeing numerous stories of 240Ls being replaced 2 to 4 times and still having problems along with not receiving the RMA email.
On 9/12/14 contacted Cooler Master again about getting a RMA for the unit. Before I was disconnected from first rep, he wanted the serial number of the original unit replaced to be put in the note section of the RMA form. I had to call back and explain to the second rep I didn't have anything with the serial number due to returning everything on the first go around. Once again the rep had to go find info from their old data base on the first RMA. I was then told by the rep the replacement was coming to me via advanced RMA for all the trouble I had been through. I asked if I needed to fill out a RMA form. I was told no and to just send the non-working unit back when I received the new one. He also said I would be getting a RMA number and label to send it back via email.
So after waiting almost three weeks to the day I had yet to receive a replacement, RMA email or any kind of contact from Cooler Master. I called them to see what the deal was on my RMAed unit. Guess what, it was never filed or processed. That makes two times I have been lied to, misinformed or what ever you want to call it by Cooler Master customer support reps. Today I have again talked with Cooler Master reps to RMA this Glacer 240L. So I will be giving another update in two weeks whether or not Cooler Master finally got it right.

P.S.
I will not be purchasing anymore Cooler Master products of any kind after all of the quality control issues, the lack of customer service and overall treatment I have been privet too.


----------



## slikk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it most certainly will. Our engineer here has an H220X sitting in the top of his 540 without an issue.


Now that the H240X is available,I think I'll get this model rather than the H220X. Will the H240X fit in the top of the Air 540? How long before it's available in Canada? Thanks.


----------



## orndorf77

I should be receiving my 360mm radiator for my h220x tomorrow when filling the h220x what wire do I have to plug in the 4 pin or the sata power or both ?


----------



## VSG

4 pin is for controlling the pump and fans, SATA is for powering them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Hi Bram,
> 
> Is the H240-X's radiator thicker than the H220X? I am thinking of getting that one instead since I might include my GPU on in the future..


I believe that it's the same thickness. Thickness really doesn't enhance performance that much. This is particularly true when you start to factor in the extra cost of the thicker radiator. The size of the radiator ( a 2 x 120 vs 3 x 120) makes much more of an impact on performance than thickness does and the cost is also justifiable.


----------



## Gavush

I would venture to say one of the largest supposed benefits of a 280 radiator /140 fans vs a 240 aside from the small percentage of cooling capacity increase is the ability of the 140mm fans to complete the same amount of cooling with less noise. At least, that's what I have surmised having spent way too many hours reading reviews and such these last two months trying to figure out what to get. My main reason for the 280 was that my case supported it and I didn't want to be wasting any airflow around the sides of a 240 rather than thru the 280 which would fill the area completely.


----------



## ukic

I use a Corsair H110 on a 650D without any problems but it depends on your mobo if you want push/pull. In my case it was impossible. So, H240X shouldn't be a problem for 650D owners.


----------



## [email protected]

Finally...

I personally apologize for the delay. its my fault..

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Hi Bram,
> 
> Is the H240-X's radiator thicker than the H220X? I am thinking of getting that one instead since I might include my GPU on in the future..
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that it's the same thickness. Thickness really doesn't enhance performance that much. This is particularly true when you start to factor in the extra cost of the thicker radiator. The size of the radiator ( a 2 x 120 vs 3 x 120) makes much more of an impact on performance than thickness does and the cost is also justifiable.
Click to expand...

My issue is fitting the H240X on my system even if it is just 1mm thicker than the 220 which is already touching the power connector, I think it wont fit.


----------



## 8472

Can the LEDs in the reservoir of the H240-X be disabled? I prefer to have a dark setup in my rig.


----------



## Pahani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Finally...
> 
> I personally apologize for the delay. its my fault..
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


Woo!! Thanks Gabe









I don't have current plans to modify or expand my H220X, but I'll get one of these adapters just in case I do in the future......


----------



## sdmf74

Whatever happend with the new pump accessory that was supposed to be announced several weeks ago? I see swiftech has other new accessories being produced and sold already, did it get scrapped?


----------



## gdubc

I was wondering about this as well. Also, still plans to sell the kits with neoprene type tube?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Whatever happend with the new pump accessory that was supposed to be announced several weeks ago? I see swiftech has other new accessories being produced and sold already, did it get scrapped?


It's a clear top for the MCP50X. As of right now though we have no plans to sell them separately. They will therefore only be sold with pumps as a single product. These are in production now and will likely be released in about three weeks to a month. I'll try to keep you guys posted as to any changes to this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I was wondering about this as well. Also, still plans to sell the kits with neoprene type tube?


We do have a new type of tubing that we're currently validating. It doesn't have the glossy look of the previous tubing, but it is still black.


----------



## Radmanhs

How loud should the h220 pump be... set as low as it can possibly go, i can hear it from about 8 ft away...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> How loud should the h220 pump be... set as low as it can possibly go, i can hear it from about 8 ft away...


Are you hearing a gurgling noise and how long have you had the kit for?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> How loud should the h220 pump be... set as low as it can possibly go, i can hear it from about 8 ft away...


using a rough measurement. 5 case fans in pretty enclosed setup(2 gelix uv, 2 swiftech helix, 1 corsair sp quiet) 30%(~1760 rpm) pwm is about 32 decibals with my phone situated right in front of the case.


----------



## 1M4TO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We do have a new type of tubing that we're currently validating. It doesn't have the glossy look of the previous tubing, but it is still black.


Bram any plans from swiftech to do a reservoir similar to the xspc photon that can be mouted directly on top of ddc/d5 with a bracket for case attachment?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1M4TO*
> 
> Bram any plans from swiftech to do a reservoir similar to the xspc photon that can be mouted directly on top of ddc/d5 with a bracket for case attachment?


Not that I'm aware of.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not that I'm aware of.


Bryan,

Is it confirmed to fit in the 350D? (The 220x fits, but it's tight (because of the hanging pump/res combo).

Jason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> Is it confirmed to fit in the 350D? (The 220x fits, but it's tight (because of the hanging pump/res combo).
> 
> Jason


We don't have a 350D here to test fit one into. It really depends on the space available for a dual 140mm fan radiator. That's the only thing that's different between these two kits.


----------



## EarlZ

I think Swiftech needs to get a 350D to test fit, I also have a 350D and it would be very inconvenient when I get the 240X and it wont fit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I think Swiftech needs to get a 350D to test fit, I also have a 350D and it would be very inconvenient when I get the 240X and it wont fit.


The question really isn't the case though. The question is whether or not a particular motherboard will have issues due to heat sinks that might extend past the top of the board. As long as that isn't the case then you should be fine. The case itself can handle the H240X without a problem.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The question really isn't the case though. The question is whether or not a particular motherboard will have issues due to heat sinks that might extend past the top of the board. As long as that isn't the case then you should be fine. The case itself can handle the H240X without a problem.


This is true. In theory, the 280mm should fit up there because there are screwholes for it and the provisions are there. On a board such as my Maximus VII Gene, the top VRM cooler is ENORMOUS. It's enormous to the point that I have to put the case on its side, and slide the 220x into the case in order to ensure I don't bonk the radiator into the VRM, cpu, or whatnot. *Volunteers to be the test bunny and review the 240x in a "small environment*


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> This is true. In theory, the 280mm should fit up there because there are screwholes for it and the provisions are there. On a board such as my Maximus VII Gene, the top VRM cooler is ENORMOUS. It's enormous to the point that I have to put the case on its side, and slide the 220x into the case in order to ensure I don't bonk the radiator into the VRM, cpu, or whatnot. *Volunteers to be the test bunny and review the 240x in a "small environment*


OK, we'll get back to you on that one.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I think Swiftech needs to get a 350D to test fit, I also have a 350D and it would be very inconvenient when I get the 240X and it wont fit.


Return it?


----------



## Aznlotus161

When can we expect more retailers to have stock of the H220X?

So far I'm only seeing NCIX and Swiftech's very own.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> When can we expect more retailers to have stock of the H220X?
> 
> So far I'm only seeing NCIX and Swiftech's very own.


Other resellers, such as Frozen and Performance have had stock of these. They are currently out of stock, but we will be replenishing them shortly. I would think that they should have stock of them again in about a week, if not sooner.


----------



## adog12341

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Other resellers, such as Frozen and Performance have had stock of these. They are currently out of stock, but we will be replenishing them shortly. I would think that they should have stock of them again in about a week, if not sooner.


Do you know if Amazon has any plans to stock the 220x or 240x?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Other resellers, such as Frozen and Performance have had stock of these. They are currently out of stock, but we will be replenishing them shortly. I would think that they should have stock of them again in about a week, if not sooner.


Thank you for the speedy reply.

Oh one more question, would it be allowed to add a silver coil inside the res?

Not sure how that applies to warranties as far as I know since Swiftech can be specific on what voids it and what doesn't.

Switching coolant and tubes are allowed iirc.


----------



## orndorf77

how should I mount my h220x when I have my sli expansion with my 2nd radiator finshed and ready to be installed ? it is going to be 5 components all in one peace. how am I supposed to mount every thing ? what should I put in first in order ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Do you know if Amazon has any plans to stock the 220x or 240x?


We don't have any relationship with Amazon, so if these are sold on Amazon it would be through one of our resellers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Thank you for the speedy reply.
> 
> Oh one more question, would it be allowed to add a silver coil inside the res?
> 
> Not sure how that applies to warranties as far as I know since Swiftech can be specific on what voids it and what doesn't.
> 
> Switching coolant and tubes are allowed iirc.


Putting a silver kill coil in through the fill port will be very difficult due to the amount of space under the cap. The best place to put one would be in one of the tubes. It won't void your warranty to add one though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how should I mount my h220x when I have my sli expansion with my 2nd radiator finshed and ready to be installed ? it is going to be 5 components all in one peace. how am I supposed to mount every thing ? what should I put in first in order ?


The order of your components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. Many new water coolers have the misconception that they need to have a radiator between each block. This isn't necessary. Once you have everything arranged the way you want it you just need to go with the shortest distance between components to make the loop look clean.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I think Swiftech needs to get a 350D to test fit, I also have a 350D and it would be very inconvenient when I get the 240X and it wont fit.
> 
> 
> 
> The question really isn't the case though. The question is whether or not a particular motherboard will have issues due to heat sinks that might extend past the top of the board. As long as that isn't the case then you should be fine. The case itself can handle the H240X without a problem.
Click to expand...

Looking at this picture with an H220X installed:

It seems to me that the pump is lower than the drive bay, so I would like to clarify the H240X pump would still land on the exact same spot when installed on the 350D or would it be closer to the drive bay?

Because if it will be closer it wont fit due to the elbow hitting the drive cage
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I think Swiftech needs to get a 350D to test fit, I also have a 350D and it would be very inconvenient when I get the 240X and it wont fit.
> 
> 
> 
> Return it?
Click to expand...

Not all places in the world will accept returns due to incompatibilities.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't have any relationship with Amazon, so if these are sold on Amazon it would be through one of our resellers.
> Putting a silver kill coil in through the fill port will be very difficult due to the amount of space under the cap. The best place to put one would be in one of the tubes. It won't void your warranty to add one though.
> The order of your components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. Many new water coolers have the misconception that they need to have a radiator between each block. This isn't necessary. Once you have everything arranged the way you want it you just need to go with the shortest distance between components to make the loop look clean.


what I am asking is how I am supposed to get it all in my case ?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Question. I plan on ordering the pump adapter and the 90 degree rotary fitting. I'm currently running the Helix fans in push-pull on my 220X and I want to be sure that there will be enough clearance. Right now it's pretty tight.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> Question. I plan on ordering the pump adapter and the 90 degree rotary fitting. I'm currently running the Helix fans in push-pull on my 220X and I want to be sure that there will be enough clearance. Right now it's pretty tight.


when you expanded your h220x how did you get it back inside your case with the gpu waterblock connected to it ? I am asking because I want to add x2 gpu water blocks and a 360mm radiator to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli and I am worried about how I am going to get every thing back inside my case after I have every thing connected to togeather . is there away to connect every thing and fill it while it is still in your case ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> whan you expanded your h220x how did you get it back inside your case with the gpu waterblock connected to it ? I am asking because I want to add x2 gpu water blocks and a 360mm radiator to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli and I am worried about how I am going to get every thing back inside my case after I have every thing connected to togeather . is there away to connect every thing and fill while still in your case ?


you will have to drain and refill when you add a new component unless you put some quick disconnect fittings in... you can also add fill and drain lines to aide it but i don't really see a way around draining and filling/bleeding expecially when doing it for the first time


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you will have to drain and refill when you add a new component unless you put some quick disconnect fittings in... you can also add fill and drain lines to aide it but i don't really see a way around draining and filling/bleeding expecially when doing it for the first time


Yeah exactly, quick disconnects from Koolance is something to look into if you really don't want to drain your loops--especially useful if you swap out GPUs like shoes.

There's a lot of methods in having a drain loop, you can definitely use a mini-valve attached to a T-rotary or block of some sort.

Attach with spare tubing when bleeding, remove when not in use so it doesn't add to clutter.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you will have to drain and refill when you add a new component unless you put some quick disconnect fittings in... you can also add fill and drain lines to aide it but i don't really see a way around draining and filling/bleeding expecially when doing it for the first time


taking it out of my case and draining it doesn't worry me . I am worried about how I am going to get it back inside my case with x2 gpu's and another radiator hooked up to it . I only have 2 hands it looks like it is going to be a pain to mount the h220x with x2 gpu's and another radiator hooked up to it. is there a easy way to get the h220x and all the extra components back inside my case ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Adding a fill port would allow you to drain it add the new components plumb them up then refill it but it would make bleeding it very hard without the h220x out of the case without an second res.... it would be extremely hard to get all those components put together in a loop outside the case then placed in.... it's for this reason I left my lines to the h220x long so I can take it out for filing until I get a fill/drain setup. The h220x can be a pain to install/remove in a tight space but it gets easier each time.... you learn more every time... best way I've found so far is to install everything except h220x plumb it all then measure and cut hoses for h220x so that you can fill and bleed with it in your hands and maneuver it around to get the bubbles out then once bled and leak tested install h220x...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Adding a fill port would allow you to drain it add the new components plumb them up then refill it but it would make bleeding it very hard without the h220x out of the case without an second res.... it would be extremely hard to get all those components put together in a loop outside the case then placed in.... it's for this reason I left my lines to the h220x long so I can take it out for filing until I get a fill/drain setup. The h220x can be a pain to install/remove in a tight space but it gets easier each time.... you learn more every time


making the tubes longer is a good idea . I think the easiest way will be to get my brother to help me hold things while i screw things in 4 hands are better then 2 . I just wish swiftech had a system for getting all the components back in the case once you connected them to the h220x . the xspc raystorm 750 is much easier to have multiple components because you can connect every thing when it is mounted all ready


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> making the tubes longer is a good idea . I think the easiest way will be to get my brother to help me hold things while i screw things in 4 hands are better then 2 . I just wish swiftech had a system for getting all the components back in the case once you connected them to the h220x . the xspc raystorm 750 is much easier to have multiple components because you can connect every thing when it is mounted all ready


ideally with a fill port connection and a second res for bleeding you could do the same with h220x... still have to drain refill and bleed though....I've broken this one down five times so far and it's easier each time... one positive is that maintenence well be easier when the time comes because I'll have everything figured out... the most annoying part I've had so far is the bleeding process...Second res makes that 100x easier


----------



## FastEddieNYC

When I expanded the loop I added a T between the second rad and intake on the 220X. It made filling and bleeding much easier.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

Is there much point in the H240x with the poor state of 140mm fans that are around? Last i heard is 120mm fans were much better than 140mm, and i haven't heard anything different since.


----------



## ukic

Any 350D owners with H220X and an extra dual 120 rad? Wanted to know how it fits...


----------



## Lukeroge

Are we ever going to be able to get the H220X/H240X over in NZ? I really would like one but you just don't seem to sell them here at all.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Anyone thinking of getting a 970 or 980 here? I just put my Gigabyte 980 under water today and it runs silly cool. Almost 21C at idle and it didn't go over 39C doing some quick benchmarks. Ironically the reference style cards run pretty hot when OCed on air though. Mine was pushing 84-85C in 3D Mark the other night. But anyways you could cool one of these with the H220X and another 120mm rad easily.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Anyone thinking of getting a 970 or 980 here? I just put my Gigabyte 980 under water today and it runs silly cool. Almost 21C at idle and it didn't go over 39C doing some quick benchmarks. Ironically the reference style cards run pretty hot when OCed on air though. Mine was pushing 84-85C in 3D Mark the other night. But anyways you could cool one of these with the H220X and another 120mm rad easily.


Sooooon


----------



## emsj86

Does the new apogee xl plexi block have a amd 3+ backplate or do I just use my orginal one. Also with the plexi can I see my fluid (for example line the ek supremacy) or is it just for show? Also do you think the mcp50x with swiftech res can handle the apogee xl plexi, one ek block and two. 240mm rads in a full tower case if so could it handle more say larger rad and 2 Gpus. Last swiftech reservior mounts right to the mcp50x correct is it better to feed the res from the top or the bottom


----------



## emsj86

Is it a problem to have ek nickel gpu and a copper cpu block? I do t believe it's bad but figure I ask he pros?


----------



## VSG

That pump will be able to handle most loops easily. Mixing nickel and copper isn't a real issue, but I always suggest running an anticorrossive and antimicrobial agent in the loop.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That pump will be able to handle most loops easily. Mixing nickel and copper isn't a real issue, but I always suggest running an anticorrossive and antimicrobial agent in the loop.


Thank you and I believe most pre mics have that in it allready line mayhems pastel. Yeh thinking if selling my glacer which I have pics on this thread if it expanded ( or retr. To microcenter paid 10 usd so I can return it in a year time for any reason for the same money) than buy mcp50x and some fittings with that money than buy apogee or ek cpu block and probably swiftech res since mounts directly to he mcp50x may even get a arylic too to go with the blue pastel I got going on.


----------



## VSG

Go for it


----------



## springs113

I used quick disconnects on the main portions of my loop, best thing I ever did. It cost a tad more to use then but for the lack of hassle I love them. I'm never doing another loop without qdcs.


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Anyone thinking of getting a 970 or 980 here? I just put my Gigabyte 980 under water today and it runs silly cool. Almost 21C at idle and it didn't go over 39C doing some quick benchmarks. Ironically the reference style cards run pretty hot when OCed on air though. Mine was pushing 84-85C in 3D Mark the other night. But anyways you could cool one of these with the H220X and another 120mm rad easily.


Primo Luxe case with new X99 build. I'm going to liquid cool the 970's when the full cover blocks come out, but they run decently cool now even overclocked quite a bit.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Primo Luxe case with new X99 build. I'm going to liquid cool the 970's when the full cover blocks come out, but they run decently cool now even overclocked quite a bit.


Very nice wish I would have got the luxe and not the pro. I love the pro but would like to mount the fans above the radiator and still have more room like you can with the luxe. Very nice build I like the white leds. I got some from icemodZ and there sleeving coming in the mail


----------



## 66racer

Hey guys,

Been a while since I last checked in, did the mcp-50x h220 conversion ever come out? Or do I just buy a standard mcp-50x, take the top off and install on the h220?

Thanks!


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Primo Luxe case with new X99 build. I'm going to liquid cool the 970's when the full cover blocks come out, but they run decently cool now even overclocked quite a bit.


Sweet man, I actually wanted to do two 970s originally. That probably would have been the best decision cost to performance wise. I just wasn't sure about the availability of waterblocks and which aftermarket card to get. EVGA is usually a pretty safe bet since they typically use the stock PCB, but most all the 970s are all aftermarket cooling it looks like. I am sure the WBs will be released eventually, but many of them will need to be custom to accommodate the different aftermarket PCBs.

I just installed my 980 EK Acetal block and matching backplate and finally my loop is back to normal;


I also added a drain port off my lower EK reservoir to make future maintenance a bit easier.

For anyone interested it was super easy and inexpensive to do. I bought the Enzotech Drain Plug G 1/4 Threaded Cap - 3/8" Barb, and a Koolance rotary elbow for around $12 total. I used a small piece of tubing, clamps, and an EK extender I had laying around. Now I don't have to remove any components (like the reservoir), or any fittings to drain the loop. I had looked into using a mini valve, but they are pretty expensive and I really didn't have the room to do it effectively. Plus the mini valves are all female to female fittings so they require lots of extra adapters and fittings to add it to your loop. This was quick, simple, and cheap...


----------



## quick1unc

That's a great looking rig! EK posted that they are making a full block for the MSI now. The 970 is so popular overall that there is alot of interest for water blocks and MSI is one of the most popular selling brands right now, so I'm glad they decided to make one.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> That's a great looking rig! EK posted that they are making a full block for the MSI now. The 970 is so popular overall that there is alot of interest for water blocks and MSI is one of the most popular selling brands right now, so I'm glad they decided to make one.


Thanks! I am always making changes to it, and trying to balance aesthetics and performance. I sold my 770s the same day that Nvidia released both cards. At that point I had originally decided to get a 970 or two, although it wasn't clear who would be making WBs and which cards would support them. EK announced the 980 WB a few days later and I cancelled my order at Amazon and bought a Gigabyte 980 that had just become available at Newegg. So it was a decision based on what was available and how fast I could get it all together.

Someone gave me rep (thanks BTW!) and commented whether my reservoir is a pump/res combo. Yes, it is the EK 2.2 X-Res and it works beautifully with the MCP-30 on the H220X. It runs full speed all the time, but is damn near silent. It allows me to run the H220X (and the fans hooked up to the splitter) at very low percentages at idle and load. The reservoir makes maintenance and bleeding very easy. Over the last week I have drained (not entirely) and filled my loop three times because of all the changes. I can pour into the res directly from a gallon jug of distilled water without a funnel, and I can fill the loop without having to turn the pump on and off too! It requires good timing due to the small reservoir, but it makes filling so much faster. I don't know if the EK 2.2 is still available, but it works great with the H220X, is nice and quiet, and is a good insurance policy in case one pump craps the bed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Been a while since I last checked in, did the mcp-50x h220 conversion ever come out? Or do I just buy a standard mcp-50x, take the top off and install on the h220?
> 
> Thanks!


Yep, that's basically it. If you need help with doing this I can make myself available. Just PM me.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yep, that's basically it. If you need help with doing this I can make myself available. Just PM me.


Will this work for the cm glacer 240l?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will this work for the cm glacer 240l?


Yes, the pump housing is the same on the 240L as the H220/H320.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the pump housing is the same on the 240L as the H220/H320.


Nice thank you. Kinda wish they would come out with a plexi top for looks like they did with h220x.


----------



## emsj86

So off topic but you guys been so good with answering and being nice. So I have a fx 8350 at 4.8 ghz. Now is it worth to upgrade to i7 4770k for bf4 obviously after selling my mobo and cpu I'd still have to out out another 100-200 dollars is it worth it. And our there going to be any new CPUs coming out soon? I know amd has 8370 and intel has x99 but there more upgrades than a whole new cpu. Outside of the x99 ( is the x99 better performing and better oc than say i7 4770 which is similar priced?)


----------



## Mega Man

for gaming it is nearly useless, ( x99) however imo not much BF4 is amd optimized


----------



## BangBangPlay

@Emsj86

Maybe for video rendering or editing, and benchmarks the i7 would be a step up. You also run the risk of getting a so so overclocker with first gen Haswell, so be careful. For real world gaming increases it wouldn't be worth the hassle, and cost difference IMO. But I have seen people do crazy things with CPUs and GPUs for BF4 improvements. Besides this isn't the best place to ask, that's probably why you haven't received the answer you're looking for. Post in the AMD and Intel sub sections for more varied opinions.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's a clear top for the MCP50X. As of right now though we have no plans to sell them separately. They will therefore only be sold with pumps as a single product. These are in production now and will likely be released in about three weeks to a month. I'll try to keep you guys posted as to any changes to this.


Thanx for the reply, Will this new top be identical to the black one in performance & aesthetics? Can we get a pic before the release? Thanx!

Also will Swiftech please consider a new mounting mechanism for the MCP50X Since cooling is not a factor? A simple mounting mechanism would be nice but one that improves aesthetics would be even better. It could be designed in a way
that wouldnt require disassembly of the pump so that the user would not void warranty.
What do you guys think???


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Emsj86
> 
> Maybe for video rendering or editing, and benchmarks the i7 would be a step up. You also run the risk of getting a so so overclocker with first gen Haswell, so be careful. For real world gaming increases it wouldn't be worth the hassle, and cost difference IMO. But I have seen people do crazy things with CPUs and GPUs for BF4 improvements. Besides this isn't the best place to ask, that's probably why you haven't received the answer you're looking for. Post in the AMD and Intel sub sections for more varied opinions.


I realize it's not the right thread but thanks for trying to answer I just never see much amd 8350 water cooled outside if ails. Very grew water blocks made for amd


----------



## DoooX

@BangBangPlay

How do you bleed your loop with that type of tubing ? You just fill up the res until it gets almost empty and repeat the process until it gets full or ?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> Question. I plan on ordering the pump adapter and the 90 degree rotary fitting. I'm currently running the Helix fans in push-pull on my 220X and I want to be sure that there will be enough clearance. Right now it's pretty tight.


With P/P the pump adapter and 90° fitting is a no no.

P/P is only possible with original 90° swivel fitting as in picture.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> With P/P the pump adapter and 90° fitting is a no no.
> 
> P/P is only possible with original 90° swivel fitting as in picture.


Thanx for answering my question. Looking at the pic of the adapter I wasn't sure there would be clearance. I'll just run in push.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Thanx for the reply, Will this new top be identical to the black one in performance & aesthetics? Can we get a pic before the release? Thanx!
> 
> Also will Swiftech please consider a new mounting mechanism for the MCP50X Since cooling is not a factor? A simple mounting mechanism would be nice but one that improves aesthetics would be even better. It could be designed in a way
> that wouldnt require disassembly of the pump so that the user would not void warranty.
> What do you guys think???


I'll try to get a pic of the pump with the clear top on Monday. I think the only pictures we have though are of the prototype. It's changed a little since they were taken. In terms of a mounting mechanism I really don't know what you mean and there really isn't any other way to put a top on this pump without taking it apart.


----------



## orndorf77

I just ordered these parts for my h220x to cool my x2 gtx 780's that I have in sli



now I just need to order a 3 slot sli connector a pre mixed fluid and a radiator . can you suggest a 3 slot sli connector a pre mixed fluid and a radiator ? my case is a corsair air 540


----------



## psyclist

Working on adding to my new H220X to incorporate my one 290X. Have a 760T case and trying to figure out cooling capacity needed and also rad placement. I was going to try and just use a 140 rad added to my Existing H220X. and mount it on the rear exhaust. But in reading im not sure if that will give enough cooling capacity?

I guess the other option is to add another 240 at the front of the case, but that seems less than ideal because im cooling components with pre-warmed air and I will have to find a spot for my one drive cage installed.

The other option is returning the H220X and waiting for the H240X to hit Canada to gain a little more cooling capacity in conjunction with the extra 140 rad. As it stands my second 290X is on an AIO/G10 and i intend to just leave it that way for now as its giving decent performance.

Im new to WC, but am reading everything I can right now. Got my EK FC block coming and compression fittings as well. Just need to figure out how/what to add for Rads, any help would be awesome guys!


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> @BangBangPlay
> 
> How do you bleed your loop with that type of tubing ? You just fill up the res until it gets almost empty and repeat the process until it gets full or ?


Yep, pretty much. Although I can now fill it one shot, without having to turn it on and off now. Since it is a small res, it would take several refills to completely fill the loop. Once the loop is full the air slowly exits the loop as its circulates. The level in the reservoir drops as air espaces and I just top the small res off every so often. The H220X in my loop can take a few days to bleed entirely, but it likely depends on your setup and other variables. Having the extra pump/res is very convenient for fill ups and bleeding.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Working on adding to my new H220X to incorporate my one 290X. Have a 760T case and trying to figure out cooling capacity needed and also rad placement. I was going to try and just use a 140 rad added to my Existing H220X. and mount it on the rear exhaust. But in reading im not sure if that will give enough cooling capacity?
> 
> I guess the other option is to add another 240 at the front of the case, but that seems less than ideal because im cooling components with pre-warmed air and I will have to find a spot for my one drive cage installed.
> 
> The other option is returning the H220X and waiting for the H240X to hit Canada to gain a little more cooling capacity in conjunction with the extra 140 rad. As it stands my second 290X is on an AIO/G10 and i intend to just leave it that way for now as its giving decent performance.
> 
> Im new to WC, but am reading everything I can right now. Got my EK FC block coming and compression fittings as well. Just need to figure out how/what to add for Rads, any help would be awesome guys!


Your best bet is to go with the 240 in the front. I think on the 760t you can actually fit a 280 in the front.


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yep, pretty much. Although I can now fill it one shot, without having to turn it on and off now. Since it is a small res, it would take several refills to completely fill the loop. Once the loop is full the air slowly exits the loop as its circulates. The level in the reservoir drops as air espaces and I just top the small res off every so often. The H220X in my loop can take a few days to bleed entirely, but it likely depends on your setup and other variables. Having the extra pump/res is very convenient for fill ups and bleeding.


Thanks for the reply.
I might only consider some 240 rad to put on the bottom of my Stryker since I don't think another pump or res would be required for CPU and GPU only in the loop.


----------



## Scorpion49

Okay, so I've had my Glacer 240L for about a week now and the pump is getting louder every day. I've removed it and let it run in different orientations to make sure there was no air trapped in the block but it keeps on making a gurgling sound (almost like an aquarium pump). Is this thing about to die on me like the H-220 I had did?


----------



## orndorf77

I just ordered
x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks
x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates
x3 koolance 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings
x1 koolance 90 degree swivel angled 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting
x2 koolance nozzle g1/4 3/8 barbs . hose clamps included
4 feet of primoflex advanced LRT tubing 3/8 x 5/8
will all these parts work with with the swiftech h220x ? and are the ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks compatible with the evga gtx 780 sc acx ? because on the website I bought them from it says they are compatible with reference gtx 780's and I have evga gtx 780 sc acx's


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yep, pretty much. Although I can now fill it one shot, without having to turn it on and off now.


Hey man, hows this for irony...I just finished making (and testing) my homemade adapter for the h220x/h240x for hardline conversion and now Swiftech releases their adapter. Doh. Looking at it though, I cant tell if it can actually be used (confidently) for hardline conversion. I just sent them a message asking about this. Lets see what they say.

I was about to take pictures of the conversion as well but want to wait until I put the new mobo in this week. Also, I did it all before installing the small res. Which would be fine if I was going to be done with the unit after the tubing swap but I plan on adding a mobo block and gpu (possibly RAM too)

Heres what is getting me, in their own description on the 240x/220x page:

" (an optional adapter is needed for the pump outlet and is available here, which allows enthusiast users to upgrade their system to 1/2" ID tubing if they wish to."

http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx

**Two notes: First, they forgot to close the parenthesis and secondly, notice that it doesnt say anything about switching to hardline, it just says you can switch tube diameter

But then on the actual adapter product page it says that it can be used for any G1/4 adapter/fittings

"...a replacement part for the stock outlet port fitting of the MCP30 built-in pump featured in the H140-X, H220-X and H240-X series CPU cooling kits. It allows users to install any G1/4 compatible fitting and to customize their kits with different sizes of tubing."

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx

Now, arent my hardline fittings classified as "G1/4"? Or am I wrong on this


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just ordered
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates
> x3 koolance 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings
> x1 koolance 90 degree swivel angled 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting
> x2 koolance nozzle g1/4 3/8 barbs . hose clamps included
> 4 feet of primoflex advanced LRT tubing 3/8 x 5/8
> will all these parts work with with the swiftech h220x ? and are the ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks compatible with the evga gtx 780 sc acx ? because on the website I bought them from it says they are compatible with reference gtx 780's and I have evga gtx 780 sc acx's


I think they should work but cant hurt to double check.
Do you mind sharing what site you bought the blocks from..
Checking EKs site should help
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just ordered
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates
> x3 koolance 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings
> x1 koolance 90 degree swivel angled 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting
> x2 koolance nozzle g1/4 3/8 barbs . hose clamps included
> 4 feet of primoflex advanced LRT tubing 3/8 x 5/8
> will all these parts work with with the swiftech h220x ? and are the ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks compatible with the evga gtx 780 sc acx ? because on the website I bought them from it says they are compatible with reference gtx 780's and I have evga gtx 780 sc acx's


Im not sure about your gpu and the fitment of that card. Its probably right. As long as your card is a reference design then it will be no problem

You fittings are the correct size as well as your tubing. So you are in good shape. Just curious why there is only one 90 degree swivel fitting. Just to be safe I usually order those in pairs. You may want to look at some of the rotary 90 degrees and the dual or triple 90 degree rotary fittings. And, one thing that can help you a lot for maintenance/adding on blocks are quick disconnects, an on/off valve or possibly both


----------



## Yvese

Anyone know what's the minimum pump speed % I can safely use for when CPU is idling? I have mine currently set at 40% in the bios and goes to 50% during load. I hear 35% is all you really need even at load.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I think they should work but cant hurt to double check.
> Do you mind sharing what site you bought the blocks from..
> Checking EKs site should help
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


I ordered them from performance pc-s . in the gpu water block section they were listed as gtx 780 ti water blocks this is why I am a little worried because they should have been listed under gtx780/ titan/ ti . but I seen the same exact water blocks on frozencpu.com and on that website they have a compatibility guide and on that guide it has the evga gtx 780 sc acx listed


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Thanx for the reply, Will this new top be identical to the black one in performance & aesthetics? Can we get a pic before the release? Thanx!
> 
> Also will Swiftech please consider a new mounting mechanism for the MCP50X Since cooling is not a factor? A simple mounting mechanism would be nice but one that improves aesthetics would be even better. It could be designed in a way
> that wouldnt require disassembly of the pump so that the user would not void warranty.
> What do you guys think???
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to get a pic of the pump with the clear top on Monday. I think the only pictures we have though are of the prototype. It's changed a little since they were taken. In terms of a mounting mechanism I really don't know what you mean and there really isn't any other way to put a top on this pump without taking it apart.
Click to expand...

or..... you guys could make a dual pump like you need to, and please, for the love of PCs make the wires longer !


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or..... you guys could make a dual pump like you need to, and please, for the love of PCs make the wires longer !


mega always wants Moar powah! If my wallet would refill itself I'd be the same way probably lol


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I ordered them from performance pc-s . in the gpu water block section they were listed as gtx 780 ti water blocks this is why I am a little worried because they should have been listed under gtx780/ titan/ ti . but I seen the same exact water blocks on frozencpu.com and on that website they have a compatibility guide and on that guide it has the evga gtx 780 sc acx listed


I live not too far from Performance PCs, they are really nice and since it's a sunday just shoot them a letter stating that you wanted to make sure the items purchased are compatible to a T, they are real quick with responses too.

Which blocks did you purchase, give me a model number or something to work with?
Also according to EK that card you have is a reference design as well.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I ordered them from performance pc-s . in the gpu water block section they were listed as gtx 780 ti water blocks this is why I am a little worried because they should have been listed under gtx780/ titan/ ti . but I seen the same exact water blocks on frozencpu.com and on that website they have a compatibility guide and on that guide it has the evga gtx 780 sc acx listed


That block will fit your card fine. I order almost 95% of water cooling supplies from Performance PCs but I use Frozen's website to find what I need first. Be careful when ordering from Performance PCs as they can be pretty unforgiving if you order the wrong items though. I have had nothing but smooth transactions from them, but have heard stories from other members here. You just can't beat their prices with a stick.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> That block will fit your card fine. I order almost 95% of water cooling supplies from Performance PCs but I use Frozen's website to find what I need first. Be careful when ordering from Performance PCs as they can be pretty unforgiving if you order the wrong items though. I have had nothing but smooth transactions from them, but have heard stories from other members here. You just can't beat their prices with a stick.


My only gripe with them are the no refund thing..store credit but I have returned numerous stuff too and everything was as smooth as possible.


----------



## Mega Man

my only gripe is now that they changed web sites, their inv is way way way off :/


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> That block will fit your card fine. I order almost 95% of water cooling supplies from Performance PCs but I use Frozen's website to find what I need first. Be careful when ordering from Performance PCs as they can be pretty unforgiving if you order the wrong items though. I have had nothing but smooth transactions from them, but have heard stories from other members here. You just can't beat their prices with a stick.


I just bought a corsair air 540 case from them 3 weeks ago and i received it with a big peace cracked off of it . I was able to fix it with car bondo and carbon fiber vinyl . the only reason I ordered from them again is because they are located 2 hours away from me and shipping is dirt cheap


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I live not too far from Performance PCs, they are really nice and since it's a sunday just shoot them a letter stating that you wanted to make sure the items purchased are compatible to a T, they are real quick with responses too.
> 
> Which blocks did you purchase, give me a model number or something to work with?
> Also according to EK that card you have is a reference design as well.


the water blocks are ek- fc780 gtx ti. I used the ek liquid cooling compatibility guide and I know for ceartain these water blocks are compatible


----------



## orndorf77

I am still trying to figure out what radiator I should get do you think a 240mm radiator is enough to cool my x2 gtx 780's . can some one suggest a radiator my case is a corsair air 540


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just bought a corsair air 540 case from them 3 weeks ago and i received it with a big peace cracked off of it . I was able to fix it with car bondo and carbon fiber vinyl . the only reason I ordered from them again is because they are located 2 hours away from me and shipping is dirt cheap


I didn't want to convey the wrong message (not to you, other members) about Performamce. I have had nothing but pleasant and fair transactions with them, and I will continue to do business with them. But I have heard stories posted here about them being difficult on returns. I hardly blame them, Watercooling is not for noobs. Imagine if they had to eat every wrong fitting, block, and tubing size.

I read a complaint about them on BBB in which a customer ordered a GPU backplate thinking it was a waterblock because it was posted in the Waterblock section. He filed a complaint saying that he shouldn't have to buy the $100 waterblock to make the $25 backplate work and blamed them for false advertising. So that is the type of stuff that they deal with on a daily basis, that's all I meant.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I didn't want to convey the wrong message (not to you, other members) about Performamce. I have had nothing but pleasant and fair transactions with them, and I will continue to do business with them. But I have heard stories posted here about them being difficult on returns. I hardly blame them, Watercooling is not for noobs. Imagine if they had to eat every wrong fitting, block, and tubing size.
> 
> I read a complaint about them on BBB in which a customer ordered a GPU backplate thinking it was a waterblock because it was posted in the Waterblock section. He filed a complaint saying that he shouldn't have to buy the $100 waterblock to make the $25 backplate work and blamed them for false advertising. So that is the type of stuff that they deal with on a daily basis, that's all I meant.


[ I know what you are saying this is why I asked on this thread if these parts are compatible



I am still looking for a radiator and I am checking out the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator because it is only 25mm thick and it would fit perfect in the front of my corsair air 540 case but when I select this radiator it is only giving me fitting options for 3/8 OD and 1/2 OD and the barbs I ordered are 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD does this mean that this radiator will not support the barbs I ordred ? I am a noob at water cooling but I have to start some where


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> [ I know what you are saying this is why I asked on this thread if these parts are compatible
> They should work, but I would just use compression fittings.
> 
> 
> I am still looking for a radiator and I am checking out the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator because it is only 25mm thick and it would fit perfect in the front of my corsair air 540 case but when I select this radiator it is only giving me fitting options for 3/8 OD and 1/2 OD and the barbs I ordered are 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD does this mean that this radiator will not support the barbs I ordred ? I am a noob at water cooling but I have to start some where


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> [ I know what you are saying this is why I asked on this thread if these parts are compatible
> 
> I am still looking for a radiator and I am checking out the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator because it is only 25mm thick and it would fit perfect in the front of my corsair air 540 case but when I select this radiator it is only giving me fitting options for 3/8 OD and 1/2 OD and the barbs I ordered are 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD does this mean that this radiator will not support the barbs I ordred ? I am a noob at water cooling but I have to start some where


And I am applauding you for doing so. Everyone started where you are now at some point or another. It actually wasn't that long ago that I was researching how to do custom water cooling. It can be very confusing with the different types of fittings, barb and compression, and inner and outer dimensions.

Do you mean the "barbs" or the "tubing" you ordered is 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD? I didn't know that 5/8 barbs even existed. You probably mean the tubing because the H220X uses 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD tubing. Since the inner diameter of the tubing is 3/8 you want 3/8 barbs. And outer diameter 5/8, you want 5/8 clamps. When you see G 1/4 that is the thread type of the fittings, rads, blocks, etc and it is the most common used. It doesn't mean that the fitting is a 1/4", only it's threads. Hope this clears things up. Don't be afraid to ask questions, or even call Performance right before you place your order if you have any doubts. It only saves you time and money if you don't make mistakes, and we all do from time to time.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> And I am applauding you for doing so. Everyone started where you are now at some point or another. It actually wasn't that long ago that I was researching how to do custom water cooling. It can be very confusing with the different types of fittings, barb and compression, and inner and outer dimensions.
> 
> Do you mean the "barbs" or the "tubing" you ordered is 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD? I didn't know that 5/8 barbs even existed. You probably mean the tubing because the H220X uses 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD tubing. Since the inner diameter of the tubing is 3/8 you want 3/8 barbs. And outer diameter 5/8, you want 5/8 clamps. When you see G 1/4 that is the thread type of the fittings, rads, blocks, etc and it is the most common used. It doesn't mean that the fitting is a 1/4", only it's threads. Hope this clears things up. Don't be afraid to ask questions, or even call Performance right before you place your order if you have any doubts. It only saves you time and money if you don't make mistakes, and we all do from time to time.


the barbs I ordered are koolance nozzle G1/4 10mm 3/8 the hose clamps are included with these barbs . I don't know how to link websites but here is a picture of the description of the radiator I am looking at


is this radiator compatible with the barbs I bought ?


----------



## gagac1971

hi to all here my nome is Dragan and i am from Portugal.i have one of products Swiftech H 220 6 month old.everything was been OK until today i started to hear some noise from the pump.the noise is not too loud but is constant and i am sure that is coming from the pump.
if i will start some cpu benchmark-prime 95- pump is starting to bouble a lot,i am sure that inside have a lot of ai and that bubles are there since first time that i pluged the pump.only during the benchmark or some heavy loud is bubling a lot.
what is worrying me is that the noise is seams to sound like mettalic noise&#8230;.
i need your instructions what to do what procedure to make to try to took out that air from the system&#8230;
and also if is necessary to rma since that i am from Portugal what to do?
p.s. by the way your H 220 is the best cooling that i had until now and that is fantastic product but just today i started to have this problem after 6 month working perfectly...
if you want my opinion then is that is true that system have air inside but what worrys me is that metallic sound&#8230;.but we will see.
thanks for you time and your help in advance.
Dragan Pajic


----------



## BangBangPlay

@Orndof77

I think those rads come with barbs already attached but I know they can be swapped with any common G 1/4 threaded fitting. I have used those same Koolance barbs (elbows though) and they come with 1/2 inch clamps. You'll have to grab a few extra Koolance 5/8 clamps for those particular fittings. I always order a few extra in case I make changes (like my new drain port) and they come in handy.

Do you have to put that thin a rad in your case? You will be using the front case fans to cool the rad right? Or do you plan to do a push pull setup? I only ask because a thin rad doesn't benefit from push pull much, or as much as a thicker or higher FPI (fin per inch) rad. Since you likely have the H220X as well, you could use a thin rad an be fine. But you could also do a thick 240mm rad and get similar results too.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> @Orndof77
> 
> I think those rads come with barbs already attached but I know they can be swapped with any common G 1/4 threaded fitting. I haves used those same Koolance barbs (elbows though) and they come with 1/2 inch clamps. You'll have to grab a few extra Koolance 5/8 clamps for those particular fittings. I always order a few extra in case I make changes (like my new drain port) and they come in handy.
> 
> Do you have to put that thin a rad in your case? You will be using the front case fans to cool the rad right? Or do you plan to do a push pull setup? I only ask because a thin rad doesn't benefit from push pull much, or as much as a thicker or higher FPI (fin per inch) rad. Since you likely have the H220X as well, you could use a thin rad an be fine. But you could also do a thick 240mm rad and get similar results too.


that radiator does not come with barbs I think the black ice gts Nemesis mite come with barbs . in the pictures of the Nemesis I see metal things coming out of where the G1/4 holes are but I am not shure if thoes are barbs. the other radiator I am thinking about getting is the x-flow black ice gts stealth Nemesis 280mm radiator which is 29mm thick. and then I would use the x2 140mm fans that came with my corsair air 540 but they are not pwm fans. if I get the 360mm radiator I will use the 3 corsair h100i replacment pwm fans that I have installed in the front of my case now. what do you think I should go with the 280mm radiator with the x2 corsair 140mm case fans or the 360mm radiator with the 3 corsair 120mm pwm fans ? I also need to order a 3 slot sli connector and a pre mixed fluid any suggestions on that ?


----------



## orndorf77

do they sell a external power supply that plugs in to the wall that you can plug your 4 pin pump header in to that way you can fill your water loop ? and if yes what is it called and where can I buy it ?


----------



## spacetoast31

see, i was actually curious abou tthis as well, and im wondering abou tusing this http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-Power-Supply-12V-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable-/360170366699?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item53dbd3a6eb

Which i already have one but im scared to try it on my fancy brand new pump lol
maybe @BramSLI1 can chime in on this? i hate dragging out my extra psu.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do they sell a external power supply that plugs in to the wall that you can plug your 4 pin pump header in to that way you can fill your water loop ? and if yes what is it called and where can I buy it ?


assuming you dont want to use your motherboard, you need a 110/120v ac to 12v dc molex power supply(along with a molex to sata connector) that has enough wattage to power the pump. (dont know the required wattage for the pumps, so i cant help you on that). You want the ones that look like laptop power brick(the ones on ebay can push 2 amps(assuming 12v) so 24w max. Im pretty sure the pump on the h220 and h220x falls in line with the wattage. the only one that goes off the line are generally D5 pumps only. Just be sure to not trip the PSU over and power additional things on the splitter link 7 seperate fans or something. when priming the loops, you only need the pump running. The pump's nominal power is specified at 6w, so i would assume it would be safe assuming the brick can hold the charge at a constant power.


----------



## springs113

I have a x flow gts and a regular nemesis gtx, I think the x flow came with barbs but don't quite remember. Either way, please remember the xflow is larger than your average 360rad due to the extra space required for the floor inlet and outlet, also it's a single pass rad but that's a whole other story in itself. When Iget back from work I can help you more.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or..... you guys could make a dual pump like you need to, and please, for the love of PCs make the wires longer !


Many of us would love to see a dual MCP50X pump, hard to understand why this isnt being considered, They would sell twice as many pumps this way or in my case three times as many since I already own one.
and a longer sata wouldnt hurt either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> do they sell a external power supply that plugs in to the wall that you can plug your 4 pin pump header in to that way you can fill your water loop ? and if yes what is it called and where can I buy it ?


Here you go buy this one PPCS AC to DC Adapter, 110v AC to 12v (5 Amp) DC Converter I bought the 5amp one just in case and its only a few more bucks than the 2amp version









and if your pump has sata power you will need one of these S-ATA power connector cable. Hope this helps


----------



## orndorf77

when filling the h220x what needs to be plugged in the 4 pin or the sata power or both ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> when filling the h220x what needs to be plugged in the 4 pin or the sata power or both ?


sata and the leads to led and pump housing...I recommend pinning your power supply rather than looking for an external solution... saves a lot of fuss and only costs a small piece of wire or piece of paper clip. Just make sure nothing but the pump is powered... if you've never pinned one you connect the green pin to the closest black pin on the 24 pin mobo connector with it not connected to motherboard....and cycle the power with your on off switch on the psu.. don't let the metal wire/clip/whatever touch you or any metal while it's powered on if that worries you put a piece of electrical tape on it


----------



## sdmf74

Not sure how the paper clip method is easier than plugging in a power cord (which he will have to do with his PSU anyway) but you may want to link a video to your recommendation so he doesnt fry his PSU or worse.

edit: You do make a good point about the on/off switch though if he does get the external power supply its best to plug it in to a surge protector so he has an on/off rocker switch to cycle the pump


----------



## orndorf77

is a 32oz bottle of pre mixed fluid enough for the h220x and x2 gtx 780 waterblocks and a slim 360mm radiator ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is a 32oz bottle of pre mixed fluid enough for the h220x and x2 gtx 780 waterblocks and a slim 360mm radiator ?


Should be, I used half of a 1-liter bottle to fill a full CPU/GPU 360mm rad and small res with short runs of tubing. You can always run to the store and get a gallon of distilled water to add some if you need it.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is a 32oz bottle of pre mixed fluid enough for the h220x and x2 gtx 780 waterblocks and a slim 360mm radiator ?


My advise, just use distilled water and a couple drops of PT Nuke. You can get it almost anywhere, and it won't leave deposits inside your blocks. Every time I fill my loop (entirely) I use less than a quarter of a gallon and that is exactly 32 oz, so you should be fine. You'll probably only use a little more than half that.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> My advise, just use distilled water and a couple drops of PT Nuke. You can get it almost anywhere, and it won't leave deposits inside your blocks. Every time I fill my loop (entirely) I use less than a quarter of a gallon and that is exactly 32 oz, so you should be fine. You'll probably only use a little more than half that.


for reference I've used about 5/8 of a gallon filling mine 3 times and that includes the cat knocking over a bit in a cup while I was cycling the pump...so for about 66 cents I've filled my loop 3 separate times add in the biocide and you've got about 1.25 for 3 full fillings calculate that with premix...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> My advise, just use distilled water and a couple drops of PT Nuke. You can get it almost anywhere, and it won't leave deposits inside your blocks. Every time I fill my loop (entirely) I use less than a quarter of a gallon and that is exactly 32 oz, so you should be fine. You'll probably only use a little more than half that.


thanks . I ordered the rest of the parts I needed I ordered the koolance 2-3 slot sli connector and I ordered primochill pure performance coolant 32oz clear and I ordered the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm 25mm thick radiator . the reason I got this radiator over the x-flow black ice gts nemesis 360mm 29mm thick radiator was because the 25mm thick 360mm radiator I got is a 2 pass radiator and the 29mm thick 360mm radiator is a 1 pass . I don't know the difference from a 1 pass radiator and a 2 pass radiator . but I read online that a 1 pass radiator is good if you have a powerful pump and a 2 pass radiator is good if you have a normal pump . is this true ? and what is the difference from a 1 pass radiator and a 2 pass radiator ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Not sure how the paper clip method is easier than plugging in a power cord (which he will have to do with his PSU anyway) but you may want to link a video to your recommendation so he doesnt fry his PSU or worse.
> 
> edit: You do make a good point about the on/off switch though if he does get the external power supply its best to plug it in to a surge protector so he has an on/off rocker switch to cycle the pump


it's easier because no ordering or finding/waiting on parts... no danger to components if done properly and you can leave nearly everything connected save plugs for power.... it takes about two minutes to do up proper even the first time and costs literally 0 dollars and 0 cents. Also if you're unsure how the jumping methodology works here's a link only difference is he explains he is doing it to power computer components before the pc is turned on you simply do his method with only the pump connected to the power supply... if you can install the h220x this should be cake...http://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=u0OKmIuNtmI
I personally cut a piece off of a paper clip that is only about 1/4 inch long and bent it..I did this because it doesn't have to go all the way in it just had to complete the circuit between the two pins and it only protrudes from the connector 1/32 of an inch or so..


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just ordered
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks
> x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates
> x3 koolance 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings
> x1 koolance 90 degree swivel angled 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting
> x2 koolance nozzle g1/4 3/8 barbs . hose clamps included
> 4 feet of primoflex advanced LRT tubing 3/8 x 5/8
> will all these parts work with with the swiftech h220x ? and are the ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks compatible with the evga gtx 780 sc acx ? because on the website I bought them from it says they are compatible with reference gtx 780's and I have evga gtx 780 sc acx's


Yes those gpu blocks work that's what I have ek waterblock on my 780 sc acx


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes those gpu blocks work that's what I have ek waterblock on my 780 sc acx


are these ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks easy to install ? and do they come with there own screws or will I have to use the screws that is on my evga gtx 780 sc acx ? and will I be installing more screws to install the water block then when removing screws to uninstall the acx cooler ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> are these ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks easy to install ? and do they come with there own screws or will I have to use the screws that is on my evga gtx 780 sc acx ? and will I be installing more screws to install the water block then when removing screws to uninstall the acx cooler ?


the block comes with its own screws, thermal pad and what what not. Should be fairly easy..You could search YouTube for a video showing 780 block installation. The screws are usually around the same count give or take a few.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> are these ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks easy to install ? and do they come with there own screws or will I have to use the screws that is on my evga gtx 780 sc acx ? and will I be installing more screws to install the water block then when removing screws to uninstall the acx cooler ?


Yeah, the screws that come with the ACX are pan head type sometimes. EK supplies flat head screws with clear plastic washers that are slightly shorter. Don't use a lot of thermal compound and don't bother with the "X" or "+" method listed in the instructions. Just use a pea sized drop in the center and tighten down the 4 center screws little by little in an X sequence so it spreads evenly. I save the screws supplied with the EVGA cooler by threading them back into their standoffs after the cooler is removed. If and when you sell or RMA the card they will come in handy.

Are you installing a backplate too? I only ask because it can make the install a little more complicated as far as which screws get installed under it and over it. Not that difficult, but it requires a little more attention to detail. I am not familiar with the different pass types on radiators, so I can't really comment there. I'm sure you'll get decent temps with your setup as long as the air flow is directed properly in your case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Just use a pea sized drop in the center....


People seem to greatly underestimate the size of a pea.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yeah, the screws that come with the ACX are pan head type sometimes. EK supplies flat head screws with clear plastic washers that are slightly shorter. Don't use a lot of thermal compound and don't bother with the "X" or "+" method listed in the instructions. Just use a pea sized drop in the center and tighten down the 4 center screws little by little in an X sequence so it spreads evenly. I save the screws supplied with the EVGA cooler by threading them back into their standoffs after the cooler is removed. If and when you sell or RMA the card they will come in handy.
> 
> Are you installing a backplate too? I only ask because it can make the install a little more complicated as far as which screws get installed under it and over it. Not that difficult, but it requires a little more attention to detail. I am not familiar with the different pass types on radiators, so I can't really comment there. I'm sure you'll get decent temps with your setup as long as the air flow is directed properly in your case.


yes I ordered the ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates in black. what is the difference from installing the water block with the back plate and with out the back plate ? also the water blocks I bought are the ek-fc780 gtx ti acetal I did not get the acetal + nickel . is there a difference in performance with these water blocks ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> People seem to greatly underestimate the size of a pea.


a baby pea then? Lol


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> People seem to greatly underestimate the size of a pea.


Yes, they probably do, but that is a good thing seeing as you only need to create a small film between the two surfaces. And what vegetable or object would you use to describe the ammount of thermal paste that should be used. A couple grains of quinoa maybe?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> yes I ordered the ek-fc780 gtx ti back plates in black. what is the difference from installing the water block with the back plate and with out the back plate ? also the water blocks I bought are the ek-fc780 gtx ti acetal I did not get the acetal + nickel . is there a difference in performance with these water blocks ?


It depends on the card and backplate layout. Some screws will go into the WB first and then some through the backplate and into the WB. I just did my 980 recently and the four main screws around the GPU core get installed first and only two others. Then you install the backplate and the rest of the screws. Don't use the plastic washers on the screws that go through the backplate. Just look carefully at the backplate holes and you'll figure out which screws to install into the WB first. You don't want nickel in your loop if you use silver fittings or a kill coil because it can cause the nickel plating to flake. Your block is straight copper with an Acetal (brushed plastic) finish, good choice...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes, they probably do, but that is a good thing seeing as you only need to create a small film between the two surfaces. And what vegetable or object would you use to describe the ammount of thermal paste that should be used. A couple grains of quinoa maybe?
> It depends on the card and backplate layout. Some screws will go into the WB first and then some through the backplate and into the WB. I just did my 980 recently and the four main screws around the GPU core get installed first and only two others. Then you install the backplate and the rest of the screws. Don't use the plastic washers on the screws that go through the backplate. Just look carefully at the backplate holes and you'll figure out which screws to install into the WB first. You don't want nickel in your loop if you use silver fittings or a kill coil because it can cause the nickel plating to flake. Your block is straight copper with an Acetal (brushed plastic) finish, good choice...


thanks . I also ordered a ac to dc adapter with a 4 pin molex to fill my h220x . what plug on the pump will I have to plug in to fill it the sata power plug or the 4 pin header ? also if it is the 4 pin header I have to plug in can I plug it in to a 3 pin fan header that I connect to the molex ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> thanks . I also ordered a ac to dc adapter with a 4 pin molex to fill my h220x . what plug on the pump will I have to plug in to fill it the sata power plug or the 4 pin header ? also if it is the 4 pin header I have to plug in can I plug it in to a 3 pin fan header that I connect to the molex ?


I think you just called me. It's the SATA power connector, so you're going to need a Molex to SATA adapter.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> thanks . I also ordered a ac to dc adapter with a 4 pin molex to fill my h220x . what plug on the pump will I have to plug in to fill it the sata power plug or the 4 pin header ? also if it is the 4 pin header I have to plug in can I plug it in to a 3 pin fan header that I connect to the molex ?


You only need to plug in the sata power when filling the loop, the 4 -pin pwm cable is for regulating the speed of the pump which is not necessary when filling. Use the link I gave you for the sata to molex adapter so you can power the pump with
that ac to dc adapter









If you call PPC'S they can add it to your order if you forgot to get it, but you better hurry

Not sure if you even read my response but its post #12634 click on the blue writing to get the link for the product you need


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> You only need to plug in the sata power when filling the loop, the 4 -pin pwm cable is for regulating the speed of the pump which is not necessary when filling. Use the link I gave you for the sata to molex adapter so you can power the pump with
> that ac to dc adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you call PPC'S they can add it to your order if you forgot to get it, but you better hurry
> 
> Not sure if you even read my response but its post #12634 click on the blue writing to get the link for the product you need


I did order the adapter and I bought the 5 amp dc to ac adapter you posted in the link


----------



## orndorf77

I will be expanding my h220x with a 360mm and x2 waterblocks on Wednesdays and I am a little intimidated about how I am going to mount my expanded h220x back inside my case. I am going to have to be very resourceful . any suggestions on how I should get everything back inside my case when I have the 2 water blocks and the 360mm connected togeather ?


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> 
> White tubes for ya! I bought the swoftech ones since I just ordered it all direct from them.


Hi there! How's the fit with the H220X in the NZXT H440? I'm considering replacing my Corsair H110 with the Swiftech, but I'm concerned about how easily it can be mounted up top. I tried mounting the H110 up top, but there wasn't sufficient clearance between the radiator and motherboard (ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z). In the end, I put the H110 in the front, but if I could mount the Swiftech up top, that would be ideal.

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Hi there! How's the fit with the H220X in the NZXT H440? I'm considering replacing my Corsair H110 with the Swiftech, but I'm concerned about how easily it can be mounted up top. I tried mounting the H110 up top, but there wasn't sufficient clearance between the radiator and motherboard (ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z). In the end, I put the H110 in the front, but if I could mount the Swiftech up top, that would be ideal.
> 
> Thanks!


From that picture it looks like it should fit fine. I'm curious though why your H110 wouldn't fit because it looks like it should have. Did you have it in push/pull?


----------



## orndorf77

I am going to add x2 ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks and a 360mm 25mm thick x-flow black ice pro 3 radiator to my h220x to cool my x2 evga gtx 780 sc acx's on Wednesday . how much temperature drop do you think I will see ? my current temperatures when running heaven benchmark is 80c for my top card and 70c for my bottom card . the cards are @ stock clock


----------



## BramSLI1

On a good liquid cooling system you should see a 30 to 35 degree drop in temperatures. For the system that you're putting together that's about what I would expect. Depending on airflow though that number can shift by as much as + or - 5 degrees. It's not easy trying to figure out the potential results of a particular system because there are so many variables to account for.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From that picture it looks like it should fit fine. I'm curious though why your H110 wouldn't fit because it looks like it should have. Did you have it in push/pull?


I have a single set of fans pushing air onto it, and it does *just* fit, but the radiator is flush against the board and it's not possible to plug-in the 8 and 4-pin ATX power connectors.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> On a good liquid cooling system you should see a 30 to 35 degree drop in temperatures. For the system that you're putting together that's about what I would expect. Depending on airflow though that number can shift by as much as + or - 5 degrees. It's not easy trying to figure out the potential results of a particular system because there are so many variables to account for.


wow a 30 to 35 degree temperature drop . is that in degrees Celsius ? i had no idea what kind of temperatures i would see i am new to water cooling at most i was only expecting a 15 to 20 degree temperature drop . i am real excited now i cant wait .


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> wow a 30 to 35 degree temperature drop . is that in degrees Celsius ? i had no idea what kind of temperatures i would see i am new to water cooling at most i was only expecting a 15 to 20 degree temperature drop . i am real excited now i cant wait .


That's in Celsius. Like I said though, that's just a rough estimate based on the added surface area of your radiator.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's in Celsius. Like I said though, that's just a rough estimate based on the added surface area of your radiator.


how about my cpu temperature will that improve at all ?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> are these ek-fc780 gtx ti water blocks easy to install ? and do they come with there own screws or will I have to use the screws that is on my evga gtx 780 sc acx ? and will I be installing more screws to install the water block then when removing screws to uninstall the acx cooler ?


It is very easy. It comes with a installation guide that is very helpful. It has all screws needed and the thermal pads that you will need. All this will be covered In the instructions as well. Hardest part is making sure you have every screw removed off your 780 acx first than don't pull twist gently to break the seal. Pull the pin for the fan than clean the gpu paste. Note new thermal paste will also be included with the blocks. Obviously if you didn't buy it new I can't help you but new it includes intructions, screws, paste, thermal pads. Everything you need.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Hi there! How's the fit with the H220X in the NZXT H440? I'm considering replacing my Corsair H110 with the Swiftech, but I'm concerned about how easily it can be mounted up top. I tried mounting the H110 up top, but there wasn't sufficient clearance between the radiator and motherboard (ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z). In the end, I put the H110 in the front, but if I could mount the Swiftech up top, that would be ideal.
> 
> Thanks!


Since I mounted my board first, it was a bit difficult to get it in position since that "armor" rises up so far. Also, you can't do push pull on the h220x so I don't really have any issues fitting it in there. I used the front top fan opening for my custom fill port. I took some plexi cut out a panel to fit the 120mm slot, drilled some holes and mounted a fill port to it. Ran a tube fro. the fill port to a barb in the fill port on the h220x. makes filling pretty easy.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Since I mounted my board first, it was a bit difficult to get it in position since that "armor" rises up so far. Also, you can't do push pull on the h220x so I don't really have any issues fitting it in there. I used the front top fan opening for my custom fill port. I took some plexi cut out a panel to fit the 120mm slot, drilled some holes and mounted a fill port to it. Ran a tube fro. the fill port to a barb in the fill port on the h220x. makes filling pretty easy.


can you post pictures from inside and other angle very interested and looks nice good job


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Since I mounted my board first, it was a bit difficult to get it in position since that "armor" rises up so far. Also, you can't do push pull on the h220x so I don't really have any issues fitting it in there. I used the front top fan opening for my custom fill port. I took some plexi cut out a panel to fit the 120mm slot, drilled some holes and mounted a fill port to it. Ran a tube fro. the fill port to a barb in the fill port on the h220x. Makes filling pretty easy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> can you post pictures from inside and other angle very interested and looks nice good job


What emsj86 said. Would love to see more pics internally.

Also, how do you bleed your system and how long does it take spacetoast?


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Since I mounted my board first, it was a bit difficult to get it in position since that "armor" rises up so far. Also, you can't do push pull on the h220x so I don't really have any issues fitting it in there. I used the front top fan opening for my custom fill port. I took some plexi cut out a panel to fit the 120mm slot, drilled some holes and mounted a fill port to it. Ran a tube fro. the fill port to a barb in the fill port on the h220x.makes filling pretty easy.


Cool! No difficulties fitting the top 8-pin connector?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I will be expanding my h220x with a 360mm and x2 waterblocks on Wednesdays and I am a little intimidated about how I am going to mount my expanded h220x back inside my case. I am going to have to be very resourceful . any suggestions on how I should get everything back inside my case when I have the 2 water blocks and the 360mm connected togeather ?


I would install the inlet and outlet hoses on the H220x and mount it in the roof with 2-4 screws. Try to get the CPU block installed to the H220X outlet first too, and even install the CPU block output before it is in the case. Then place your components (temporarily if you can) in their final locations with fittings installed and measure and cut all your tubing. Then start to install the tubing on each fitting and permanently install each component as you go. I advise against building the loop outside the case and then trying to install it all like you do with AIO units. I use a little Ballistol (lubricant) on the very end of the barb to help get the tubing on tough/uncomfortable ones. Don't forget to install the clamps on the tubing before you put it on any barbs. I believe your using a combo of compression and barb fittings right?

You'll figure out the best way to get everything in your case, just plan it out right. That way you won't have to redo anything, or keep taking things apart. Good luck bro!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I would install the inlet and outlet hoses on the H220x and mount it in the roof with 2-4 screws. Try to get the CPU block installed to the H220X outlet first too, and even install the CPU block output before it is in the case. Then place your components (temporarily if you can) in their final locations with fittings installed and measure and cut all your tubing. Then start to install the tubing on each fitting and permanently install each component as you go. I advise against building the loop outside the case and then trying to install it all like you do with AIO units. I use a little Ballistol (lubricant) on the very end of the barb to help get the tubing on tough/uncomfortable ones. Don't forget to install the clamps on the tubing before you put it on any barbs. I believe your using a combo of compression and barb fittings right?
> 
> You'll figure out the best way to get everything in your case, just plan it out right. That way you won't have to redo anything, or keep taking things apart. Good luck bro!


I got good news I tracked my items and I will be receiving them tomorrow . I am using the compression fittings for the water blocks and barbs for the radiator . i am not sure i understand what you are saying . are you saying i should connect all the components while inside my case to get the rite tube measurements and then take every thing back out of the case and fill it and then put every thing back in the case ? or are you telling me to connect everything inside the case and fill the h220x while in my case so i don't have to install it like a AIO system ?


----------



## spacetoast31

Here ya go guys. Don't mind the quality, just using my phone and its flash lol. And ignore the hardware store clamps. I got screwed when I ordered my clamps initially based on misinterpreted descriptions on the company's page. However, here ya go.






Since I use white tubing, I recycled the stock black tubing for this. I basically just tip the case backward to get the air bubbles out and start filling the funnel again. It took me like 30 minutes I think? And I had to fill it a bit more the next day when all the rest of the air bubbles worked themselves out.

As for my 8pin, it wasn't that bad, I kinda held the cable at the perfect angle and lined it up and just pushed it right in.

I also put my loop together after all the parts were installed. Like he said, make sure you're careful pushing on your hoses and be sure to have your clamps on and definitely make them easily accessible ie. Make sure the screw is turned toward you lol. I made that mistake once lol.


----------



## orndorf77

when connecting the fittings to my water blocks and my radiator is finger tight good enough or should I use a wrench ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> when connecting the fittings to my water blocks and my radiator is finger tight good enough or should I use a wrench ?


Firm finger tight is plenty. I never use tools because it just ends up causing stuck fittings in hard to reach places and damage to finishes when trying to get them off.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how about my cpu temperature will that improve at all ?


Probably run about the same if you do it right. The H220X is almost as good as it gets for water cooling your CPU. I recently sold my GTX 770s and had to hook up my loop so it only cooled the CPU while I waited for my 980 and the WB. The CPU now had an extra 240mm x 54mm rad with push pull fans and the GPUs were gone. The temp barely changed, even at loads. Granted I didn't play any games, but I did some video compression and the temps were about the same as before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> when connecting the fittings to my water blocks and my radiator is finger tight good enough or should I use a wrench ?


If you do them finger tight be sure to check them all after 24 hours. The tubing can contract a little after warming up. Yeah you want to install some tubing outside the case (especially that fitting going into the H220X res, and then the rest once everything is inside the case. Some components can be hooked up outside and then installed, like your Waterblock for example. Tubing is much easier to install onto compression fittings because you don't need tools/pliers to then tighten them or install the clamp. The only way you can measure the tubing is by having the components where they need to be in the case. Every case and component are different, so you can install some first and then the tubing and others will need to be hooked up outside the case and then installed once the fittings and tubing are on. This is before filling the loop, that is only don't once everything is hooked up...

Hell no, don't even try to fill the loop outside the case and then install everything, that is not a good idea. You are eventually going to have to do maintenance to the loop or make small changes so it is best to get the fill procedure down now. You don't want to break down the entire loop every time you need to change something. My 350D case is very small so I had to plan my loop expansion very carefully. I did my loop just like I am suggesting you do yours and it wasn't that bad. If you plan it out right and install as many fittings and as much tubing as you can to certain components then hooking up the remaining fittings is easy. In a big enough case you could install every component first and then install the fittings and tubing with everything in place.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Probably run about the same if you do it right. The H220X is almost as good as it gets for water cooling your CPU. I recently sold my GTX 770s and had to hook up my loop so it only cooled the CPU while I waited for my 980 and the WB. The CPU now had an extra 240mm x 54mm rad with push pull fans and the GPUs were gone. The temp barely changed, even at loads. Granted I didn't play any games, but I did some video compression and the temps were about the same as before.
> 
> If you do them finger tight be sure to check them all after 24 hours. The tubing can contract a little after warming up. Yeah you want to install some tubing outside the case (especially that fitting going into the H220X res, and then the rest once everything is inside the case. Some components can be hooked up outside and then installed, like your Waterblock for example. Tubing is much easier to install onto compression fittings because you don't need tools/pliers to then tighten them or install the clamp. The only way you can measure the tubing is by having the components where they need to be in the case. Every case and component are different, so you can install some first and then the tubing and others will need to be hooked up outside the case and then installed once the fittings and tubing are on. This is before filling the loop, that is only don't once everything is hooked up...
> 
> Hell no, don't even try to fill the loop outside the case and then install everything, that is not a good idea. You are eventually going to have to do maintenance to the loop or make small changes so it is best to get the fill procedure down now. You don't want to break down the entire loop every time you need to change something. My 350D case is very small so I had to plan my loop expansion very carefully. I did my loop just like I am suggesting you do yours and it wasn't that bad. If you plan it out right and install as many fittings and as much tubing as you can to certain components then hooking up the remaining fittings is easy. In a big enough case you could install every component first and then install the fittings and tubing with everything in place.


how do I go about filling the h220x while in my case ?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> wow a 30 to 35 degree temperature drop . is that in degrees Celsius ? i had no idea what kind of temperatures i would see i am new to water cooling at most i was only expecting a 15 to 20 degree temperature drop . i am real excited now i cant wait .


You ll see your gpu for example my 780'oc was 70 air with a slow fan curve. Now on water block it never goes above 35 (all temps in celius) that's with my 780 at 1.21 v oc to 1300mhz. Now my cpu from cm tx3 air cooler dropp


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> how do I go about filling the h220x while in my case ?


I just tipped it backward and side to side and more or less played with it for a bit to get all the air bubbles out, but if you go back a few posts, you can see what i did with mine to see how i filled it up.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> I just tipped it backward and side to side and more or less played with it for a bit to get all the air bubbles out, but if you go back a few posts, you can see what i did with mine to see how i filled it up.


wow that looks pretty awsome .


----------



## Chipicao

Does anyone know where I could find the H220-X in Germany? I'm visiting a couple of friends next week and I want to get one.

I tried contacting the resellers listed on Swiftech's website.
frozen-silicon and pixmania haven't replied.
A-C Shop website has been down for weeks.
Aquatuning told me they will *not* sell the H220-X









Please recommend some other potential stores.

Thanks!


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Probably run about the same if you do it right. The H220X is almost as good as it gets for water cooling your CPU. I recently sold my GTX 770s and had to hook up my loop so it only cooled the CPU while I waited for my 980 and the WB. The CPU now had an extra 240mm x 54mm rad with push pull fans and the GPUs were gone. The temp barely changed, even at loads. Granted I didn't play any games, but I did some video compression and the temps were about the same as before.
> 
> If you do them finger tight be sure to check them all after 24 hours. The tubing can contract a little after warming up. Yeah you want to install some tubing outside the case (especially that fitting going into the H220X res, and then the rest once everything is inside the case. Some components can be hooked up outside and then installed, like your Waterblock for example. Tubing is much easier to install onto compression fittings because you don't need tools/pliers to then tighten them or install the clamp. The only way you can measure the tubing is by having the components where they need to be in the case. Every case and component are different, so you can install some first and then the tubing and others will need to be hooked up outside the case and then installed once the fittings and tubing are on. This is before filling the loop, that is only don't once everything is hooked up...
> 
> Hell no, don't even try to fill the loop outside the case and then install everything, that is not a good idea. You are eventually going to have to do maintenance to the loop or make small changes so it is best to get the fill procedure down now. You don't want to break down the entire loop every time you need to change something. My 350D case is very small so I had to plan my loop expansion very carefully. I did my loop just like I am suggesting you do yours and it wasn't that bad. If you plan it out right and install as many fittings and as much tubing as you can to certain components then hooking up the remaining fittings is easy. In a big enough case you could install every component first and then install the fittings and tubing with everything in place.


tell me if this idea sounds ok . I am going to connect the 360mm radiator and the cpu water block to the h220x unit out side the case . then I am going to tell my brother to hold the h220x with his hands while I mount the 360mm radiator . then I am going to mount my graphics cards then connect them to the cpu water block and the 360mm radiator . then I am going to tell my brother to hold the h220x in a position that I can fill it and hopefully he will be able to lean it against some thing that way he wont have to hold it the whole time I am filling it I will have paper towel around all the possible leak areas and I will be very carful when filling it . then once it is filled then I will mount the h220x unit and the cpu water block . the only problem is I am going to have to make the tubing extra long . do you think this idea will work ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> tell me if this idea sounds ok . I am going to connect the 360mm radiator and the cpu water block to the h220x unit out side the case . then I am going to tell my brother to hold the h220x with his hands while I mount the 360mm radiator . then I am going to mount my graphics cards then connect them to the cpu water block and the 360mm radiator . then I am going to tell my brother to hold the h220x in a position that I can fill it and hopefully he will be able to lean it against some thing that way he wont have to hold it the whole time I am filling it I will have paper towel around all the possible leak areas and I will be very carful when filling it . then once it is filled then I will mount the h220x unit and the cpu water block . the only problem is I am going to have to make the tubing extra long . do you think this idea will work ?


It'll work but I say drain everything from the h220x install your components (everything) then do a pre-run for your tubing runs.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Does anyone know where I could find the H220-X in Germany? I'm visiting a couple of friends next week and I want to get one.
> 
> I tried contacting the resellers listed on Swiftech's website.
> frozen-silicon and pixmania haven't replied.
> A-C Shop website has been down for weeks.
> Aquatuning told me they will *not* sell the H220-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please recommend some other potential stores.
> 
> Thanks!


I got the information, that you can get it there in the week of the 20. Oktober. (http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html)

A little part of the E-Mail
"According to Swiftech, the H220X is on the way to us.

We should have it in the week of 20 October.
As soon as we have it, your order will be processed and shipped immediately (a confirmation will be sent to your e-mail)."

ATM i waiting over a month for it. Swiftech has some problems with the shipping/cant produce it fast enough xD

But i have a little question.
The h220-x should be enough to cool my overclocked AMD 8350. but when i add a block (EK-FC R9-290) for my Sapphire r9 290 Vapor, how big should be the radiator? a can easy install a 120 Radiator. 280 can only be 6cm deep with the fans, because then there comes the r9 290 in the way.
I have a Antec 1100.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I got the information, that you can get it there in the week of the 20. Oktober. (http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html)
> 
> A little part of the E-Mail
> "According to Swiftech, the H220X is on the way to us.
> 
> We should have it in the week of 20 October.
> As soon as we have it, your order will be processed and shipped immediately (a confirmation will be sent to your e-mail)."
> 
> ATM i waiting over a month for it. Swiftech has some problems with the shipping/cant produce it fast enough xD
> 
> But i have a little question.
> The h220-x should be enough to cool my overclocked AMD 8350. but when i add a block (EK-FC R9-290) for my Sapphire r9 290 Vapor, how big should be the radiator? a can easy install a 120 Radiator. 280 can only be 6cm deep with the fans, because then there comes the r9 290 in the way.
> I have a Antec 1100.


I have cooler master glacer 250l oc fx 8350 to 5ghz with 780 1.21 v oc tk 1300 I use two. 240 mm rads and fans stay at low rpm (which is nice for sound) and it cooks everything perfect. I'd go another 240mm. Just the h220x can handle both and your gpu temps will be ok but your cpu oc maybe high. I'd go another 240mm over 120 one for looks two for noise three for performance and the cost between 120 to. 240 is minimal


----------



## orndorf77

I just tracked my items this morning that I am getting to expand my h220x and the estimated delivery day changed from today to tomorrow . so I still can order the fitting I need to extend my fill port that way I can easily fill my h220x while inside my case . I will choose next day delivery if the price is fair so I can get all my items on the same day . what kind of fittings and size will I need to connect a tube and a cap to the the h220x fill port ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

The fillport is g1/4 thread, so you're basically open to use any size. You just need a fillport, some tubing and either a barb/clamp or a compression fitting. Assuming you have extra tubing left over, the most economical would be 3/8id 5/8od fittings


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> The fillport is g1/4 thread, so you're basically open to use any size. You just need a fillport, some tubing and either a barb/clamp or a compression fitting. Assuming you have extra tubing left over, the most economical would be 3/8id 5/8od fittings


so I can connect a 3/8 barb to the fill port run a tube from the fill port and connect a new fill port to the end of the tube ? will I need a fitting to connect the fill port to ? or does the fill port come with its own fitting to connect to the tube ? thanks I am new to water cooling


----------



## spacetoast31

I used the stock tube since I swapped mine out, and that is as said above 3/8id 5/8od. I ordered 6 barbs from swiftech assuming they were not in pairs but thankfully they were. So I had extra which is where that came in play. I used this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15158/ex-tub-1151/Alphacool_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Chrome.html?tl=g30c101s460
And just put a barb on the bottom of it connected the tube and put a barb on the reservoir and connected it. I used the reservoir's plug for the top.


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I got the information, that you can get it there in the week of the 20. Oktober. (http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h220x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html)


Thank you, but that's NL, I need a store in Germany. Anyone?

I remember BramSLI1 saying it will be in Europe in 2 weeks... 2 weeks ago. So I'm still hoping.


----------



## Dudewitbow

I want to say that most fillport fittings have barb ends, so in total, you would need a fillport, 2 clamps, tubing and 1 barb i would think. Don't hold me to that though

Edit and a syringe


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I want to say that most fillport fittings have barb ends, so in total, you would need a fillport, 2 clamps, tubing and 1 barb i would think. Don't hold me to that though
> 
> Edit and a syringe


I am getting the danger den fill port reservoir . I am also going to get x2 3/8 barbs just incase it does not come with any . and I am going to get x2 5/8 od clamps . is it ok to have the extended fill port and tube just hanging from the h220x reservoir ?


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am getting the danger den fill port reservoir . I am also going to get x2 3/8 barbs just incase it does not come with any . and I am going to get x2 5/8 od clamps . is it ok to have the extended fill port and tube just hanging from the h220x reservoir ?


Given that the rest is kind of large in a way, it might be more difficult since the tube to the fill port will be lower than the h220x


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering on what to get, a H220x or a H240x.Besides the rad and fans being bigger would the 240x cool the cpu better than the 220x or just sound wise,more quiet than the 220x since lower rpm fans are on 240.I only would use this to cool the cpu,and later in the future I will get some cooling on my 7970 gpu..My case is a cooler master cosmos 2 with a asus sabertooth z77 board.Right now I have a corsair h110 in my case so I would imagine the 240x would fit if I choose that one.Any suggestions appreciated...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I want to say that most fillport fittings have barb ends, so in total, you would need a fillport, 2 clamps, tubing and 1 barb i would think. Don't hold me to that though
> 
> Edit and a syringe


I am ordering the danger den reservoir fill port it does not come with a cap
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Given that the rest is kind of large in a way, it might be more difficult since the tube to the fill port will be lower than the h220x


I was not able to order the danger den fillport reservoir because performance pc-s was out of stock . can you tell me the exact fittings and fill port you bought ?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> You only need to plug in the sata power when filling the loop, the 4 -pin pwm cable is for regulating the speed of the pump which is not necessary when filling. Use the link I gave you for the sata to molex adapter so you can power the pump with
> that ac to dc adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you call PPC'S they can add it to your order if you forgot to get it, but you better hurry
> 
> Not sure if you even read my response but its post #12634 click on the blue writing to get the link for the product you need


does the ac to dc adapter that I bought have a on and off switch ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> does the ac to dc adapter that I bought have a on and off switch ?


Plug it into a power strip and it does. It should, what would be the point if it didn't? Personally I don't think you need it, just jump the 24 pin connector and hook only the pump up to your PSU.

Tip your case to the side and use a squeeze bottle to fill the reservoir up to near the top. Run the pump for a few seconds and shut it off before it drains the res. Repeat until the loop is full. Enzotech makes a decent fill/drain port I recently bought for the ladder. Buy that a 3/8 barb, two 5/8 clamps, and your all set. Use a small piece of tubing and hook both fittings to each end and then hook it up to the H220X fill port. That would make bleeding the loop easier too, just leave the plug off the fitting and let air escape there. Make the tubing long enough so it can be looped out the side of the case, or make a hole for it in the top of the case. Just another idea...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Plug it into a power strip and it does. It should, what would be the point if it didn't? Personally I don't think you need it, just jump the 24 pin connector and hook only the pump up to your PSU.
> 
> Tip your case to the side and use a squeeze bottle to fill the reservoir up to near the top. Run the pump for a few seconds and shut it off before it drains the res. Repeat until the loop is full. Enzotech makes a decent fill/drain port I recently bought for the ladder. Buy that a 3/8 barb, two 5/8 clamps, and your all set. Use a small piece of tubing and hook both fittings to each end and then hook it up to the H220X fill port. That would make bleeding the loop easier too, just leave the plug off the fitting and let air escape there. Make the tubing long enough so it can be looped out the side of the case, or make a hole for it in the top of the case. Just another idea...


I am going to make the fill port extension long and when I am finshed filling I am going to tuck it behind my motherboard I have a corsair air 540 . i really want the danger den fill port reservoir but performance pc sold out of it do you know of another fill port that comes with a small clear reservoir that I can attach to the swiftech h220x reservoir


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am going to make the fill port extension long and when I am finshed filling I am going to tuck it behind my motherboard I have a corsair air 540 . i really want the danger den fill port reservoir but performance pc sold out of it do you know of another fill port that comes with a small clear reservoir that I can attach to the swiftech h220x reservoir


You don't need another reservoir on your fill port, it can just be a hose. The reservoir is good if you can mount it because it will allow air to escape. A long hose with a fill plug at the end is all you really need. After it is full just leave the plug off to allow air to escape. It can take a while, but just open it periodically and add a little extra coolant. An in line reservoir is better at allowing air to escape. That fill port is on the side of the reservoir so air may continue to recirculate anyways, despite having a small res on your fill port or not. I don't want to complicate this for you anyways. I'd go with a simple plug style fill port. With any luck you won't have to use it that often anyways...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> You don't need another reservoir on your fill port, it can just be a hose. The reservoir is good if you can mount it because it will allow air to escape. A long hose with a fill plug at the end is all you really need. After it is full just leave the plug off to allow air to escape. It can take a while, but just open it periodically and add a little extra coolant. An in line reservoir is better at allowing air to escape. That fill port is on the side of the reservoir so air may continue to recirculate anyways, despite having a small res on your fill port or not. I don't want to complicate this for you anyways. I'd go with a simple plug style fill port. With any luck you won't have to use it that often anyways...


is it worth getting a 1/2 barb and fill port and ordering a foot of 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing so I will be able to fill it faster ? and is the fill port you are talking about the enzotech drain plug with g1/4 threaded cap and it comes in ether a 3/8 barb or 1/2 barb and it cost $5.99 ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> is it worth getting a 1/2 barb and fill port and ordering a foot of 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing so I will be able to fill it faster ? and is the fill port you are talking about the enzotech drain plug with g1/4 threaded cap and it comes in ether a 3/8 barb or 1/2 barb and it cost $5.99 ?


Yep, that's it. I'd get the 3/8 barb fittings, not the 1/2 inch. You could use 3/4 inch hose vs 5/8 but it won't allow you to add that much more liquid. The longer the hose the more liquid you can add, but be careful not to overfill it once it is almost full. You can even use that hose as a drain port too, although you'd have to tip the rig on its face to get most of the water out. I use that same fitting for a drain in my loop. It won't be that wide, but just add the liquid slowly and carefully. You can use a squeez type bottle with a nipple, they sell them at Performance and Frozen. Maybe use clear tubing so you can see if the air is escaping while bleeding the loop. That will work great I bet and you won't have to modify your case.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yep, that's it. I'd get the 3/8 barb fittings, not the 1/2 inch. You could use 3/4 inch hose vs 5/8 but it won't allow you to add that much more liquid. The longer the hose the more liquid you can add, but be careful not to overfill it once it is almost full. You can even use that hose as a drain port too, although you'd have to tip the rig on its face to get most of the water out. I use that same fitting for a drain in my loop. It won't be that wide, but just add the liquid slowly and carefully. You can use a squeez type bottle with a nipple, they sell them at Performance and Frozen. Maybe use clear tubing so you can see if the air is escaping while bleeding the loop. That will work great I bet and you won't have to modify your case.


I all ready ordered black tubing . can't I see if there is air escaping by looking at the reservoir ?


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> does the ac to dc adapter that I bought have a on and off switch ?


No none of them do, you will want to plug it in to a power strip to cycle the power. If you dont have a power strip you can try a 4-Pin Molex Powe Adapter Cable w/ Remote On/Off Toggle Switch - 36" - Sleeved. I have never used this switch but I dont see why it wouldnt work.


----------



## emsj86

Idk about everyone else but after adding another 240 rad and a ek water to my gtx 780 with cm glacer. 240l (also xspc single bay res which an to get rid of for a tube res just for looks) my temps are amazing. I assume custom loop they would get better but 5ghz fx 8350 never reaches 45 even when rendering at 100 load and gpu doesn't pass 45 at 100 very impressed. Really help give me looks , performance and somewhat of prolonged life with high end gpu


----------



## emsj86




----------



## MojoW

So guys when my H320 is getting back from RMA i wanna expand it to a custom loop.
How much extra rad do i need for 2 290's and is the pump enough for a big loop?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> So guys when my H320 is getting back from RMA i wanna expand it to a custom loop.
> How much extra rad do i need for 2 290's and is the pump enough for a big loop?


I would say getta good 360 rad.
What case do you have?
I say if you can fit the following get one of em...
Black ice Nemesis gts(or gtx) 360
Xspc rx360 v3
Alphacool nexxxos ut 60


----------



## springs113

Nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Idk about everyone else but after adding another 240 rad and a ek water to my gtx 780 with cm glacer. 240l (also xspc single bay res which an to get rid of for a tube res just for looks) my temps are amazing. I assume custom loop they would get better but 5ghz fx 8350 never reaches 45 even when rendering at 100 load and gpu doesn't pass 45 at 100 very impressed. Really help give me looks , performance and somewhat of prolonged life with high end gpu


Nice, unfortunately for me the radeons aren't as cool as my 780 setup...idle/load difference of about 15 degrees


----------



## MojoW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I would say getta good 360 rad.
> What case do you have?
> I say if you can fit the following get one of em...
> Black ice Nemesis gts(or gtx) 360
> Xspc rx360 v3
> Alphacool nexxxos ut 60


Haf 932 but i will go NZXT H440 when the time comes, so dual 360 will fit if i'm not mistaken.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> Haf 932 but i will go NZXT H440 when the time comes, so dual 360 will fit if i'm not mistaken.


the 3I listed are probably the best out there with the black ice gtx being the most expensive followed by the alphacool then the xspc. I have 2 out of the 3I listed.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I all ready ordered black tubing . can't I see if there is air escaping by looking at the reservoir ?


Yeah, kinda. You can always get some clear tubing at your local hardware store too. The reservoir on the H220X only offers a partial view compared to tube reservoirs. I use a secondary reservoir (and pump) in my system so I do it differently. You'll be able to hear the air if it is still in the system, it will sound like running water. You just want it to go to the highest point of the loop (the fill port in your case) and then add water once it does.


----------



## Theroty

Can tarnish on the pump plate cause temp differences? I am not familiar with the many aspects of the water cooling world.

Basically I had to send my h220 off for pump repair. They replaced it with the new style pump which is more quiet but I notice already that my temps are higher using the exact same settings with my OC profile that I used with the old pump. I have not changed the way I have mounted and I have even reseated/reapplied for TIM to be sure that was not the case. I noticed that when I got it back there were some finger prints that had not been wiped off and they have left imprints on the plate and have appeared to tarnish it in those locations.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!










Edit: Going to check to see if air is trapped in it. Will post back later to see if that helps.


----------



## Gavush

A brand spanking new, aka -the first retail sold- H240-X should be on my doorstep any minute now. Too bad I'm 34 miles away! That's ok tho, I need to have plenty of time to use the wife's SLR and do a proper unboxing, etc.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> A brand spanking new, aka -the first retail sold- H240-X should be on my doorstep any minute now. Too bad I'm 34 miles away! That's ok tho, I need to have plenty of time to use the wife's SLR and do a proper unboxing, etc.


I'm looking forward to it.


----------



## orndorf77

I got my parts to expand my h220x . I still got to order a fill port . I am tempted to install every thing with out adding a fill port .


has any one expanded there h220x with out adding a fill port ? and how did it go ?


----------



## quick1unc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I got my parts to expand my h220x . I still got to order a fill port . I am tempted to install every thing with out adding a fill port .
> 
> 
> has any one expanded there h220x with out adding a fill port ? and how did it go ?


What all did you buy to expand your h220x? I am going to be looking at doing the same thing once the 970 blocks are released.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I got my parts to expand my h220x . I still got to order a fill port . I am tempted to install every thing with out adding a fill port .
> 
> 
> has any one expanded there h220x with out adding a fill port ? and how did it go ?


I did it without adding a fill port. I wouldn't recommend it though. What I did was simply use an extra fitting, a length of tubing, and a funnel to fill the kit through the front drive bays of the case. I had everything already installed when I filled it.

Using the bleed screw made filing it this way pretty easy, but you have to be very careful with that bleed screw. They're quite fragile and can break apart if you use too much force to screw it back in. It really didn't take long to fill it either and once I started the pump it also bled pretty quickly as well.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> What all did you buy to expand your h220x? I am going to be looking at doing the same thing once the 970 blocks are released.


I bought x2 ek fc780 gtx ti water blocks , x2 ek fc780 gtx ti back plates , x3 koolance 3/8 5/8 compression fittings , x1 koolance 90 degree angle 3/8 5/8 compression fitting , x2 koolance 3/8 barbs hose clamps included , x1 koolance 2-3 slot sli connector , x1 x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator , x4 feet of primochill 3/8 5/8 tubing , 32oz of primochill pre mixed fluid , and a ac to dc molex adapter to fill my reservoir . the total price came out to $470 with shipping .


----------



## orndorf77

my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator did not have mounting screws . was it supposed to come with them ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I did it without adding a fill port. I wouldn't recommend it though. What I did was simply use an extra fitting, a length of tubing, and a funnel to fill the kit through the front drive bays of the case. I had everything already installed when I filled it.
> 
> Using the bleed screw made filing it this way pretty easy, but you have to be very careful with that bleed screw. They're quite fragile and can break apart if you use too much force to screw it back in. It really didn't take long to fill it either and once I started the pump it also bled pretty quickly as well.


I've installed 4 times now each time without a fill port as I'm doing it in pieces as I can afford it....next round I'll be adding fill and a drain line. I can't stress how much easier this would make it to change things up... not having to hold the h220x to fill and bleed will cut down the time to 30 minutes or less.... I'm considering making a small plate to go between my front top fan and the h220x to hold fill line etc... and perhaps modify the bottom front with a grommetted hope to simply side to edge of table and drain out the bottom of the case not sure yet

However I will say that I'm glad I did it this way first few times it made installing the loop and h220x much easier subsequent times and I'm completely familiar with the maintenance procedures having done it this way...I even separated block to check for debris just to get n that procedure down


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator did not have mounting screws . was it supposed to come with them ?


I would think it should have most do but you could always take measurements and check specs for thread and length and hit the hardware store then contact the seller or Manufacturer and have them send them once installed you could replace with the ones you receive one or two at a time or keep them for in case you lose one during maintenance


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator did not have mounting screws . was it supposed to come with them ?


I believe worst case scenario you could get the screws and a box/bag of washers to go with them. I cant remember if you need m3 or m4 screws. I remember using some 8mm/10mm lengths and using the washer to offset the screws length.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I believe worst case scenario you could get the screws and a box/bag of washers to go with them. I cant remember if you need m3 or m4 screws. I remember using some 8mm/10mm lengths and using the washer to offset the screws length.


that's assuming he's going only push or pull depending on his mounting location


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator did not have mounting screws . was it supposed to come with them ?


Where did you even manage to buy them from? They have been discontinued for a long time now. Screws should have been in a small section next to the rad itself.


----------



## springs113

My suggestion works either way, and to secure the fans to the case just use regular fan screws.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where did you even manage to buy them from? They have been discontinued for a long time now. Screws should have been in a small section next to the rad itself.


I bought this radiator from performance pc-s this is the screws that it came with

I read the label on the box the radiator came in and it says to only use the provided screws to avoid damaging the radiator I tried attaching a fan with the screws that performance pc-s sent me with the radiator and I wound up piercing some fins . I contacted performance pc-s and they said that those are the screws the factory sent them . which is a lie . the box the radiator came in was not sealed there was not even any tape holding the box closed . I wound up spending $14 on screws . I am sorry to say this but performance pc-s is not a good place to buy from . last month I ordered a corsair air 540 case from them i received it with a big crack in it . i asked them to send me some carbon fiber vinyl to fix the case they only sent me one square foot . i wound up spending $65 on carbon fiber vinyl . the only reason i ordered from them again is that they are located not far from me and shipping is cheap . but it is not worth buying from them if every time i buy something there is a problem


----------



## BenJaminJr

Where did you get screws small enough?? Tell me because I live in fl too


----------



## BangBangPlay

M4-0.7 x XXmm is what you need and they are available at your local hardware store for around .50 a piece. Just get them long and cut them with a wire stripper/crimper tool like this;



The 5 holes around the pivot point of the pliers are used to cut fine thread screws to size easily. The screw should actually thread into the correct hole. So buy your screws long and just cut them to the size you need....


----------



## springs113

I suggested you screws , what happened


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Where did you get screws small enough?? Tell me because I live in fl too


i had to get x2 set of 4 , 6-32 1/4 screws to mount the radiator to my case and i had to get x2 set of 6 . 6-32 1.25 screws to mount the fans i bought them from performance pc-s because i had to order a fill port and i wanted every thing ASAP so i can install every thing tomorrow . so i let performance pc-s hustle me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where did you even manage to buy them from? They have been discontinued for a long time now. Screws should have been in a small section next to the rad itself.


i was not aware that the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator was discontinued . the reason i got it was because it was only 25mm thick . and the max thick radiator my corsair air 540 will support is 30mm . i was going to get the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis 360mm radiator that is 30mm thick but i read that it was only a one pass radiator and one pass radiators are supposed to be good if you have a powerful pump . the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator i bought is a 2 pass which is good for people with a normal strength pump . why was the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator discontinued ? and what is the difference from the x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator from more modern radiators ? did i make a bad choice ? and do you think the radiator will leak since i pierced some fins when trying to attach a fan with the screws that was provided from performance pc-s ?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Ahh I thought you got machine screws. Your threads may be a little messed up now but its mounted


----------



## Sesameopen

I have a question. I am getting my h220x tomorrow and will be running it only on my CPU for now. I will expand it later into another thick 120mm rad and an aquacomputer r9 290 block in a bitfenix prodigy.

All I have to do in terms of water is just add more distilled water + dye? I don't need to add more anti bacteria? I am going to add a silvercoil though


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sesameopen*
> 
> I have a question. I am getting my h220x tomorrow and will be running it only on my CPU for now. I will expand it later into another thick 120mm rad and an aquacomputer r9 290 block in a bitfenix prodigy.
> 
> All I have to do in terms of water is just add more distilled water + dye? I don't need to add more anti bacteria? I am going to add a silvercoil though


Guess it would be the best to empty everything and put the fresh coolant of your choice into the new loop with dye or premixed or whatever.

My question would be if I mount the rad of 220X on top and I put the fans on top of the rad, should I mount them to pull air from the case and the rad or in push config?
I am asking this because the second fan will get some restriction due to the pump and res location if I set it up in pull, is that right ?

Any info on the performance from pull or push when fans being on top config ?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Guess it would be the best to empty everything and put the fresh coolant of your choice into the new loop with dye or premixed or whatever.
> 
> My question would be if I mount the rad of 220X on top and I put the fans on top of the rad, should I mount them to pull air from the case and the rad or in push config?
> I am asking this because the second fan will get some restriction due to the pump and res location if I set it up in pull, is that right ?
> 
> Any info on the performance from pull or push when fans being on top config ?


I put mine to pull from outside in. It doesn't matter though really.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where did you even manage to buy them from? They have been discontinued for a long time now. Screws should have been in a small section next to the rad itself.


I did not know the x-flow black ice pro 3 was discontinued . I am new to water cooling . the reason I bought this radiator over the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis is because the pro 3 is a 2 pass radiator which is good for normal pumps and the gts stealth nemesis is a 1 pass radiator which is good for powerful pumps so I read . is this true ? and also is the x-flow pro 3 radiator I bought good compared to more modern radiators ? or is it crap ?


----------



## Gavush

Tada!



Excuse the dust - rig has been folding for a few days and the kids are home for fall break kicking up all kinds of stuff. Speaking of kids... Bath time then maybe unboxing.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Guess it would be the best to empty everything and put the fresh coolant of your choice into the new loop with dye or premixed or whatever.
> 
> My question would be if I mount the rad of 220X on top and I put the fans on top of the rad, should I mount them to pull air from the case and the rad or in push config?
> I am asking this because the second fan will get some restriction due to the pump and res location if I set it up in pull, is that right ?
> 
> Any info on the performance from pull or push when fans being on top config ?


Push is slightly better than pull. I have the 220x mounted in the top with the fans pushing into the case.The res/ pump is in the way so You can only mount one fan under the rad for pull.


----------



## orndorf77

when looking inside the g1/4 thread holes of my x-flow black ice pro 3 radiator it looks like it is almost rusted inside . is this because the radiator is made with brass and copper ? or is there a problem with my radiator ?


----------



## VSG

Since you already have it, don't worry about it.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Since you already have it, don't worry about it.


did rafldiators advance a lot since they discontinued the x-flow black ice 3 pro ? is the x-flow black ice pro 3 radiator still a good radiator ?


----------



## emsj86

Crazy question but I wanted to know if I get a d5 Pumo with a tube res. could I keep my glacer cpu block/pump on still without actually running power to it until I get a swiftech apogee waterblock


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> did rafldiators advance a lot since they discontinued the x-flow black ice 3 pro ? is the x-flow black ice pro 3 radiator still a good radiator ?


Take this discussion over to the general watercooling thread, it is a bit off topic in here. But ya- only those with that rad and recent rads can tell you for sure. I am not one of them.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Crazy question but I wanted to know if I get a d5 Pumo with a tube res. could I keep my glacer cpu block/pump on still without actually running power to it until I get a swiftech apogee waterblock


Yes without issue. Actually tests have been done (Martin's Liquid Lab) to simulate a failing pump in a two pump setup and if they are in series the stationary pump (impeller) doesn't actually obstruct flow much at all. So not only can you do it, but it actually shouldn't even mess with your flow rate either.

I fill and partially bleed my loop with my modest EK 2.2 while the H220X is pump is disabled and I have never had an issue.


----------



## Gavush

Well, here is my H240-X un-boxing. Didn't get the lighting right... it looked great thru the viewfinder. Oh well. My wife - aside from calling me a huge dork for taking pics of my computer parts, was like "you should had waited until it was daylight" (too late now) and.. I won't see daylight off work until Saturday the way the sun is anyway and I couldn't wait. I'm sure some professional will do a better job somewhere.


----------



## VSG

Well there's also this: 



 (Just skip to 3 min for the actual unboxing, and ignore the mistake about the fan hub/channel 1







)

but that isn't really any better/different in my opinion other than being a video vs photos.


----------



## Gavush

Yeah swiftech shared that on their fb page today.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> did rafldiators advance a lot since they discontinued the x-flow black ice 3 pro ? is the x-flow black ice pro 3 radiator still a good radiator ?


off topic, but I have the x flow and I find that it does it's job quite well, in conjunction with a 420mm plus 220x rad. Cpu don't past 50 and gpu 45 degrees c.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> off topic, but I have the x flow and I find that it does it's job quite well, in conjunction with a 420mm plus 220x rad. Cpu don't past 50 and gpu 45 degrees c.


do you have the x-flow black ice pro 3 or x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis ?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes without issue. Actually tests have been done (Martin's Liquid Lab) to simulate a failing pump in a two pump setup and if they are in series the stationary pump (impeller) doesn't actually obstruct flow much at all. So not only can you do it, but it actually shouldn't even mess with your flow rate either.
> 
> I fill and partially bleed my loop with my modest EK 2.2 while the H220X is pump is disabled and I have never had an issue.


That's the answer I was hoping for now to go by ek d5 x res 140 combo.


----------



## springs113

Stealth nemesis, the difference between the generations isn't that great for you to fuss about. Black ice has some of the best if not the best rads out there. Ppl say x flow rads is not good...my personal experience with them begs to differ. It performs better than a lot of my other rads from ek, xspc and swiftech.


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Does anyone know where I could find the H220-X in Germany? I'm visiting a couple of friends next week and I want to get one.
> 
> I tried contacting the resellers listed on Swiftech's website.
> frozen-silicon and pixmania haven't replied.
> A-C Shop website has been down for weeks.
> Aquatuning told me they will *not* sell the H220-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please recommend some other potential stores.
> 
> Thanks!


Are there really no other stores in Germany that specialize in this type of components?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

I got air bubbles







my pump made *THAT* noise, and i rocked the rig side to side, and i saw several BIG bubbles come out. How do I completely eliminate them?

Jason


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Sweet man, I actually wanted to do two 970s originally. That probably would have been the best decision cost to performance wise. I just wasn't sure about the availability of waterblocks and which aftermarket card to get. EVGA is usually a pretty safe bet since they typically use the stock PCB, but most all the 970s are all aftermarket cooling it looks like. I am sure the WBs will be released eventually, but many of them will need to be custom to accommodate the different aftermarket PCBs.
> 
> I just installed my 980 EK Acetal block and matching backplate and finally my loop is back to normal;
> 
> 
> I also added a drain port off my lower EK reservoir to make future maintenance a bit easier.
> 
> For anyone interested it was super easy and inexpensive to do. I bought the Enzotech Drain Plug G 1/4 Threaded Cap - 3/8" Barb, and a Koolance rotary elbow for around $12 total. I used a small piece of tubing, clamps, and an EK extender I had laying around. Now I don't have to remove any components (like the reservoir), or any fittings to drain the loop. I had looked into using a mini valve, but they are pretty expensive and I really didn't have the room to do it effectively. Plus the mini valves are all female to female fittings so they require lots of extra adapters and fittings to add it to your loop. This was quick, simple, and cheap...


This is an awesome looking build. Nice job.

How did you get the res window in the H220X to be blue? I've found that the LED in the res so bright that everything inside looks white. Also, your res on the bottom, is it part of a separate loop or is it all connected to the H220X?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> This is an awesome looking build. Nice job.
> 
> How did you get the res window in the H220X to be blue? I've found that the LED in the res so bright that everything inside looks white. Also, your res on the bottom, is it part of a separate loop or is it all connected to the H220X?


it's the angle and the exposure....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I got air bubbles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my pump made *THAT* noise, and i rocked the rig side to side, and i saw several BIG bubbles come out. How do I completely eliminate them?
> 
> Jason


PM me and I'll walk you through it.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Power the pump seperate from the mother board(preferably outside the case, but you can do it inside, just don't do it while the mother board is powered) fill reservoir up to top(while res is at top of loop). Cap it back up. Then what i do is shake the radiator and move the case to attempt to force the bubbles out to the top of the loop(which should be the radiator) then repeat till there's less air in loop. An air guide should be on page1 i think. The important thing is to do this whole the computer isn't powered, just the pump preferably


----------



## YroPro

Uh, Brian/BramSLI1, I read a TON of this thread, because I always research everything to ridiculous degrees before purchasing, but I read the 600-900 pages instead of the more recent ones, skipping some obviously over several weeks of reading. Sorry about the Germany thing falling through by the way. Anyways, I ended up ordering an H220x on the 30th, and I just noticed as I got further into the thread that you released the H240x the next day...

Is there anyway I can return my perfectly functional H220x for an H240x? I know that's a major stretch, but I'm also going to be buying an H240x for my friend on the 15th of next week if that helps.(payday)
I'm going to end up with one anyways as it won't kill me to shell out another $150, my darn* Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra doesn't even get here till today anyways, but it's just really frustrating that I essentially wasted $150 on the 220 and the 240 came out literally the next day.

Edit: Also, how hard are the Komodo R9's to install? I'm going to be buying my roommate a 290x as well, trying to decide between buying a g10 mount for his current h110i to use on it, or buying a Komodo and some fittings.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Uh, Brian/BramSLI1, I read a TON of this thread, because I always research everything to ridiculous degrees before purchasing, but I read the 600-900 pages instead of the more recent ones, skipping some obviously over several weeks of reading. Sorry about the Germany thing falling through by the way. Anyways, I ended up ordering an H220x on the 30th, and I just noticed as I got further into the thread that you released the H240x the next day...
> 
> Is there anyway I can return my perfectly functional H220x for an H240x? I know that's a major stretch, but I'm also going to be buying an H240x for my friend on the 15th of next week if that helps.(payday)
> I'm going to end up with one anyways as it won't kill me to shell out another $150, my darn* Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra doesn't even get here till today anyways, but it's just really frustrating that I essentially wasted $150 on the 220 and the 240 came out literally the next day.
> 
> Edit: Also, how hard are the Komodo R9's to install? I'm going to be buying my roommate a 290x as well, trying to decide between buying a g10 mount for his current h110i to use on it, or buying a Komodo and some fittings.


Please email me at [email protected] about this. This should be possible though, so long as the kit hasn't been taken out of the box and used. Also, our R9 290X blocks are fairly straight forward to use and install.


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> This is an awesome looking build. Nice job.
> 
> How did you get the res window in the H220X to be blue? I've found that the LED in the res so bright that everything inside looks white. Also, your res on the bottom, is it part of a separate loop or is it all connected to the H220X?


I am trying to do a set up like this with 2 reservoirs. Is the second pump needed or can i get by with just the pump on the H220X?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Brian,

The pump is quiet again 

Thanks

Jason

Does anyone know what the little neon yellow sediment is at the bottom of the res (plasticizer???)


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Sweet man, I actually wanted to do two 970s originally. That probably would have been the best decision cost to performance wise. I just wasn't sure about the availability of waterblocks and which aftermarket card to get. EVGA is usually a pretty safe bet since they typically use the stock PCB, but most all the 970s are all aftermarket cooling it looks like. I am sure the WBs will be released eventually, but many of them will need to be custom to accommodate the different aftermarket PCBs.
> 
> I just installed my 980 EK Acetal block and matching backplate and finally my loop is back to normal;
> 
> 
> I also added a drain port off my lower EK reservoir to make future maintenance a bit easier.
> 
> For anyone interested it was super easy and inexpensive to do. I bought the Enzotech Drain Plug G 1/4 Threaded Cap - 3/8" Barb, and a Koolance rotary elbow for around $12 total. I used a small piece of tubing, clamps, and an EK extender I had laying around. Now I don't have to remove any components (like the reservoir), or any fittings to drain the loop. I had looked into using a mini valve, but they are pretty expensive and I really didn't have the room to do it effectively. Plus the mini valves are all female to female fittings so they require lots of extra adapters and fittings to add it to your loop. This was quick, simple, and cheap...


sorry meant to quote this post.

I am trying to do a set up like this with 2 reservoirs. Is the second pump needed or can i get by with just the pump on the H220X?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> I am trying to do a set up like this with 2 reservoirs. Is the second pump needed or can i get by with just the pump on the H220X?


If it helps I run a bay res 2 240 rads, 1 gpu and cpu all off my single glacer pump and my temps out great and fans stay at low rpms. So you will be fine with 1 pump but 2 is nice to have if one fails plus his comes as a combo with the res for a good price. So basically I have the res is the one rad and another xspc single bay res. so an extra pump tech isn't needed. I'm actually going to buy a d5 pump res tube combo more for looks and future upgrading. And I will keep my glacer pump on but not powered


----------



## emsj86

xspc single bay res you can't see in the picture


----------



## kush621

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> xspc single bay res you can't see in the picture


Righit now I've got the H220X cooling my CPU, I treated myself to a FrozenQ Reaction res, just because it's awesome looking. I really want to add it to my build and was going to cool my GPU with it in a separate loop, but would rather incorporate it in my existing loop and just add an additional rad. So having to reservoirs in one loop isn't going to cause any problems? I've been doing some research to see if it would and keep getting mixed results.

Is that the Pro or the Luxe your using? I jsut got myself the Luxe and am loving it.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> This is an awesome looking build. Nice job.
> 
> How did you get the res window in the H220X to be blue? I've found that the LED in the res so bright that everything inside looks white. Also, your res on the bottom, is it part of a separate loop or is it all connected to the H220X?


Thanks! Ya know I think it's the extra lighting in the picture and the angle. I use distilled water and PT nuke in my loop, so the coolant isn't colored at all. During the day it looks more blue and at night when the room is darker it looks white.

The bottom pump/res is part of the entire loop. I initially had made a SLI GPU only loop for my rig and then I decided to add the H220X for the CPU and swap out my H100i. I like having two pumps, it definitely has it's advantages. Mainly it makes the loop very easy to fill/top off, and bleed. They run very quiet together and still manage a decent flow rate. I can run the Swiftech MCP-30 (and the fans connected to the splitter) at very low percentages at idle and load. It also is a good insurance policy in case the other pump fails.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> Righit now I've got the H220X cooling my CPU, I treated myself to a FrozenQ Reaction res, just because it's awesome looking. I really want to add it to my build and was going to cool my GPU with it in a separate loop, but would rather incorporate it in my existing loop and just add an additional rad. So having to reservoirs in one loop isn't going to cause any problems? I've been doing some research to see if it would and keep getting mixed results.
> 
> Is that the Pro or the Luxe your using? I jsut got myself the Luxe and am loving it.


It's the pro I live it got it before the luxe released or would have got the luxe fr the fact you can mount fans above the chasis on the top on the luxe. Amazing case for the money best 90 dollars I spent (it's the window version) but adding a gpu you will have no problems , but def add another rad if you do so either 2 240 or 1 360. I prefer 2 240 because it looks a little better and just looks cool also for less crossing of your tubes which looks ugly. Edit don't worry about the order either outside res than pump bc it doesn't make much if a difference. You'll hear and read alt saying it does , but it's a myth at most 1-2 difference if any


----------



## mossberg385t

I just got my H220X in and it looks like there is rust or something on one of the fittings on the CPU block. What do you guys think? I have not turned it on yet, it does not appear to be leaking or have leaked at all in storage/shipping. I bought it from NCIX US

update: @BramSLI1 is doing a fantastic job taking care of this issue


----------



## BramSLI1

I want to announce that for those that have been looking to add an extra 140mm PWM fan to their H240X kits, we now have them in stock. These also make great standard radiator and case fans.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mossberg385t*
> 
> I just got my H220X in and it looks like there is rust or something on one of the fittings on the CPU block. What do you guys think? I have not turned it on yet, it does not appear to be leaking or have leaked at all in storage/shipping. I bought it from NCIX US


PM me about this and I'll help you get it taken care of.


----------



## Mattb2e

@Bram, what is the recommended coolant replacement interval on the H220?


----------



## psyclist

Hey Guys,

Ok so after a few revisions, I think Im setting on a design. Trying to balance cooling performance and budget here. So im trying to cool my 4930K and one 290X, Buying an H240X once they hit the shelves here in Canada and another 140 thick rad mounted in the front. The green loop is my second 290X which is currently on an AIO setup that works well enough.

I cant fit a 280 in the front right now because I have one of the HD cages installed and its full. And I dont think my lines for my AIO will reach from the lower PCIE to the rear exhaust (but they might) so its for now exhausting out the bottom.

I know this will be pushing this setup a little, but do you think it will run decently? and I know if I want to add the other GPU in the future I will have to up my rad surface area. I had thought for that, to move the H240X to the front of the case and put a thick 360 up top. But unsure if the H240X pump can handle all that?

Anyways, shoot my plan full of holes. Id love some constructive feedback from those who have been down this road before.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> @Bram, what is the recommended coolant replacement interval on the H220?


I'd say that under normal use you should only have to replace the coolant once every year and a half to three years. This can vary though depending on the environment that the kit is being used in and how much heat load the kit has to dissipate. Evaporation will eventually set in regardless and that's what will pretty much dictate when you should change the coolant.


----------



## YroPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If it helps I run a bay res 2 240 rads, 1 gpu and cpu all off my single glacer pump and my temps out great and fans stay at low rpms. So you will be fine with 1 pump but 2 is nice to have if one fails plus his comes as a combo with the res for a good price. So basically I have the res is the one rad and another xspc single bay res. so an extra pump tech isn't needed. I'm actually going to buy a d5 pump res tube combo more for looks and future upgrading. And I will keep my glacer pump on but not powered


Can you do that? Just turn a pump off and have it not significantly impede flow?


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd say that under normal use you should only have to replace the coolant once every year and a half to three years. This can vary though depending on the environment that the kit is being used in and how much heat load the kit has to dissipate. Evaporation will eventually set in regardless and that's what will pretty much dictate when you should change the coolant.


Thank you, I guess it's time then







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If it helps I run a bay res 2 240 rads, 1 gpu and cpu all off my single glacer pump and my temps out great and fans stay at low rpms. So you will be fine with 1 pump but 2 is nice to have if one fails plus his comes as a combo with the res for a good price. So basically I have the res is the one rad and another xspc single bay res. so an extra pump tech isn't needed. I'm actually going to buy a d5 pump res tube combo more for looks and future upgrading. And I will keep my glacer pump on but not powered
> 
> 
> 
> Can you do that? Just turn a pump off and have it not significantly impede flow?
Click to expand...

been proven time and time again, pumps do not block/impede flow


----------



## YroPro

Awesome, that just makes this an even better deal!

$65 radiator...$65 waterblock...$70 pump.

$150 AIO cooler plug and play. I like their math.


----------



## Mrreks

Can the pump on my glacier 240L run a 240 alphacool monsta rad and maybe a 120 rad for cooling my gtx 670 and a i5?


----------



## orndorf77

i am returning my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator and i am getting the x-flow black ice pro nemesis 360mm radiator. this radiator is a 1 pass radiator is the swiftech h220x powerful enough for this radiator and my x2 gpu's ? because i read that you need a more powerful pump for a 1 pass radiator . is this true ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> i am returning my x-flow black ice pro 3 360mm radiator and i am getting the x-flow black ice pro nemesis 360mm radiator. this radiator is a 1 pass radiator is the swiftech h220x powerful enough for this radiator and my x2 gpu's ? because i read that you need a more powerful pump for a 1 pass radiator . is this true ?


you're thinking too much about it..if I recalled correctly they both are single pass...I have the nemesis stealth gts x flow 360 and I use that with the old h220 non x version along with a 240mm and a 420mm rad and have no issues...almost forgot 780 GTX under water as well. Everything works fine not too mention the pump in the 220 if I recall correctly is slightly weaker than that of the 220x


----------



## YroPro

Hey Bryan, or anyone else who may know...
Why are the H2O-X20 Edge HD Series and H2O-X20 Elite Series so prohibitively expensive?


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Ok so after a few revisions, I think Im setting on a design. Trying to balance cooling performance and budget here. So im trying to cool my 4930K and one 290X, Buying an H240X once they hit the shelves here in Canada and another 140 thick rad mounted in the front. The green loop is my second 290X which is currently on an AIO setup that works well enough.
> 
> I cant fit a 280 in the front right now because I have one of the HD cages installed and its full. And I dont think my lines for my AIO will reach from the lower PCIE to the rear exhaust (but they might) so its for now exhausting out the bottom.
> 
> I know this will be pushing this setup a little, but do you think it will run decently? and I know if I want to add the other GPU in the future I will have to up my rad surface area. I had thought for that, to move the H240X to the front of the case and put a thick 360 up top. But unsure if the H240X pump can handle all that?
> 
> Anyways, shoot my plan full of holes. Id love some constructive feedback from those who have been down this road before.


Any input?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Can you do that? Just turn a pump off and have it not significantly impede flow?


From what I read by Martin and another poster on here yes you can. I thought it would but seems it won't restrict


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> you're thinking too much about it..if I recalled correctly they both are single pass...I have the nemesis stealth gts x flow 360 and I use that with the old h220 non x version along with a 240mm and a 420mm rad and have no issues...almost forgot 780 GTX under water as well. Everything works fine not too mention the pump in the 220 if I recall correctly is slightly weaker than that of the 220x


in the photo of the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis there looks like barbs coming out of the g1/4 threads . are those barbs ? and can they be removed to fit the barbs I ordered ?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrreks*
> 
> Can the pump on my glacier 240L run a 240 alphacool monsta rad and maybe a 120 rad for cooling my gtx 670 and a i5?


Yes it can. I have two rads gpu and cpu and a bay res added and works fine


----------



## YroPro

It can easily handle itself and a 360. 360 and another 240, I'm not sure.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> in the photo of the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis there looks like barbs coming out of the g1/4 threads . are those barbs ? and can they be removed to fit the barbs I ordered ?


yes they are barbs. I think they are not included or even if they are they are not fitted in, you have to screw them in yourself. I use compression fittings do I didn't care for em


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Hey Bryan, or anyone else who may know...
> Why are the H2O-X20 Edge HD Series and H2O-X20 Elite Series so prohibitively expensive?


The main reason that these are more expensive is due to the pump that these kits use. The pumps in these two kits is the MCP35X. This is a Laing pump and they aren't cheap. Our H240 and H220X kits are less expensive because the pumps are made by us and therefore we can control the cost better.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Any input?


Only one intake? I'm no expert, but I wonder if you'd be better off with drawing air in thru all rads, espcially that top rad.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Only one intake? I'm no expert, but I wonder if you'd be better off with drawing air in thru all rads, espcially that top rad.


he has 3 intakes







look again...well general rule for airflow is bottom front to top left... might be starving the bottom intake a bit by exhausting air almost immediately but I can't see how that's a bad setup if anything I'd try changing the bottom rad fan to intake once you've got it setup and see how it preforms both ways


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> well general rule for airflow is bottom front to top left... might be starving the bottom intake a bit by exhausting air almost immediately but I can't see how that's a bad setup if anything I'd try changing the bottom rad fan to intake once you've got it setup and see how it preforms both ways


Rulez are made to be broken i guess







There's enough radiator space in there that it'll likely work well enough no matter which direction the air is flowing. But for the optimal setup, that top rad is the primary source of cooling so exhausting warm air thru it seems questionable.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Rulez are made to be broken i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's enough radiator space in there that it'll likely work well enough no matter which direction the air is flowing. But for the optimal setup, that top rad is the primary source of cooling so exhausting warm air thru it seems questionable.


on the same token that rad will be generating the most heat as well.. dumping it into the case could be worse than pulling a little from the two smaller rads over every component... with that much stuff in the case though it's a pain to swap fans two or three times


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I am trying to find someone that has a Corsair 250D and the 220-X
Anyone?

Thanks


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> I am trying to find someone that has a Corsair 250D and the 220-X
> Anyone?
> 
> Thanks


In theory it might work, but there are to many factors to consider, the pump,res and barbs might interfere with 24pin, 8pin or some other connection depending on motherboard layout and stiffness of cables.

The h100i is 27mm and the swiftech h220x is 29mm, you might have some wiggle room.

Edit: you'll have to move the drive bay.


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Rulez are made to be broken i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's enough radiator space in there that it'll likely work well enough no matter which direction the air is flowing. But for the optimal setup, that top rad is the primary source of cooling so exhausting warm air thru it seems questionable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> on the same token that rad will be generating the most heat as well.. dumping it into the case could be worse than pulling a little from the two smaller rads over every component... with that much stuff in the case though it's a pain to swap fans two or three times


Thanks for the input guys, im thinking I may try and stretch the AIO up to the rear exhaust (hopefully the lines are long enough.) And then that will open the bottom for intake. So it will be a balanced intake/exhaust setup The lower AIO will be the hottest component now, So trying to keep its VRM's cool as possible running at +100mv. So you think rad space should be fine then? (Equivalent to a 420mm)


----------



## Martinm210

Gotta say the new 240x is looking good. Might have to pick one up just to play with this fall/winter. Not for testing, just for my own curiosity and to play with.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Gotta say the new 240x is looking good. Might have to pick one up just to play with this fall/winter. Not for testing, just for my own curiosity and to play with.


How about an MCP50X to "play with"?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*
> 
> I am trying to find someone that has a Corsair 250D and the 220-X
> Anyone?
> 
> Thanks


its been proven already that the original h220 fits in the 250d (but extremely tight). The problem with the 220x visually is that the reservoir will 100% definitely make you unable to use the drive bay. the second problem that will arise is that if the itx motherboard you are using has a vertical daughterboard. the outlet connected to the pump will awkwardly be either behind or next to the daughterboard, which may put stress on the board or on the tubing itself

use Munition's h220 build as reference

tl;dr, it may be possible depending on exact parts, but it's something that can cause headaches due to potential problems


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> In theory it might work, but there are to many factors to consider, the pump,res and barbs might interfere with 24pin, 8pin or some other connection depending on motherboard layout and stiffness of cables.
> 
> The h100i is 27mm and the swiftech h220x is 29mm, you might have some wiggle room.
> 
> Edit: you'll have to move the drive bay.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its been proven already that the original h220 fits in the 250d (but extremely tight). The problem with the 220x visually is that the reservoir will 100% definitely make you unable to use the drive bay. the second problem that will arise is that if the itx motherboard you are using has a vertical daughterboard. the outlet connected to the pump will awkwardly be either behind or next to the daughterboard, which may put stress on the board or on the tubing itself
> 
> use Munition's h220 build as reference
> 
> tl;dr, it may be possible depending on exact parts, but it's something that can cause headaches due to potential problems


Thanks guys

I thought so and just wondered if someone had done it? but either way I plan to get one I need a water block for my 7970 as well. or I might get a 980 Hydrocopper

All future stuff of course but I don't use the 5.25 bay now as it is and I have the stock intel cooler lol I just have no need for it so I took it out from the beginning.

Also don't have a daughterboard on my Asus ITX... it isn't the ROG board.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How about an MCP50X to "play with"?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How about an MCP50X to "play with"?


that's what I want but I'm not sold on the reservior for it which I def want, bc I want to mount it on the back mother board tray or hdd cage. Is there a mount that comes with it or made for it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> that's what I want but I'm not sold on the reservior for it which I def want, bc I want to mount it on the back mother board tray or hdd cage. Is there a mount that comes with it or made for it.


You mean a mount for the reservoir? If so, then no we don't have a specific mount made for our reservoir. Once it's installed on the pump, you just bolt the pump to your case with the provided screws and mounting hardware.


----------



## orndorf77

this is off topic but i have to share today I went to performance pc-s and returned the black ice pro 3 and picked up the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis. o my god this radiator is out of this world the build quality is amazing the frame is coated with a material that feels like a textured fiberglass. the radiator is beautiful


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> this is off topic but i have to share today I went to performance pc-s and returned the black ice pro 3 and picked up the x-flow black ice gts stealth nemesis. o my god this radiator is out of this world the build quality is amazing the frame is coated with a material that feels like a textured fiberglass. the radiator is beautiful












Good thing you have a decent pump here- that GTS rad is one of the more restrictive ones (as a result also performs great).


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You mean a mount for the reservoir? If so, then no we don't have a specific mount made for our reservoir. Once it's installed on the pump, you just bolt the pump to your case with the provided screws and mounting hardware.


Is there a measurement do you know of , of the diameter of the cylinder bc they sell after market ones just idk the size and is there a way to mount it say next to my gpu. Really would like to get mcp50x with swiftech res but I can't mount on the bottom or top of case so it's kinda a deal break if I can't use third party clamps or a mount. Also I'm looking at the install guide to mount it to the mcp50x pump. How is this done with a 1/4 x 1/4 thread. The guide just shows an o ring but how does it tighten to the pump


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there a measurement do you know of , of the diameter of the cylinder bc they sell after market ones just idk the size and is there a way to mount it say next to my gpu. Really would like to get mcp50x with swiftech res but I can't mount on the bottom or top of case so it's kinda a deal break if I can't use third party clamps or a mount. Also I'm looking at the install guide to mount it to the mcp50x pump. How is this done with a 1/4 x 1/4 thread. The guide just shows an o ring but how does it tighten to the pump


The reservoirs are about 70mm in circumference.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing you have a decent pump here- that GTS rad is one of the more restrictive ones (as a result also performs great).


now I got all the parts to expand my h220x . the first thing I have to do is install the water blocks I am a little afraid I mite damage my gpu's . any tips on how I should go about doing it ? I never did something like this before


----------



## VSG

Best thing would be to post in the general watercooling thread if you have any doubts after having read through the instructions that came with the block.


----------



## Vlada011

For me this H220X/H240X are best AIO Systems for now.
H220 was nice idea, but I didn't like so big cube on CPU.
To be honest after H100 I didn't saw nothing new on market, First H50 and H70 and after that only design difference.
This is excellent and lot important if people can install that adapter and replace with normal compression fittings.
That's much cheaper solution 140e for H220X, 35-40e for 120mm single radiator on front panel and Hydro Copper block for graphic.
Few fittings and gaming in silence with overclocked graphic and CPU. But I even think one 240mm radiator will finish job.
Can't compare with D5 pump and reservoir but 50-60C are acceptable temps. This little pump is MP30, proven thing I think


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The reservoirs are about 70mm in circumference.


Thank you


----------



## dreameer111

For those using a H220x / H240x, what speed are you running your pump at? Is it loud?

After about two weeks of use with my H220x, my pump's gotten really loud and I've had to dial down my pump to 20% or 1500rpm, and even then there still a slight grumbling sound








My temps are fine though.

Is there some kind of fix for the pump that I can do to help with the loud noise?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> now I got all the parts to expand my h220x . the first thing I have to do is install the water blocks I am a little afraid I mite damage my gpu's . any tips on how I should go about doing it ? I never did something like this before


Watch a YouTube video of the install. There are probably at least a handful of videos of your card and EK block. A good video is worth 100 posts on the forum. Just don't put too much thermal paste, just a small dab in the middle is all you need. The EK instructions tell you to do a star, that is way too much. Also ignore the part about applying thermal paste in between the thermal pads, it isn't worth the effort and will cause a mess if not done carefully.

While your looking for YouTube videos take a look at a few accelerated water cooling loop construction videos. That will give you a basic idea of how to approach it and will give you a few different points of view. Good luck, I'm sure you'll do fine and will figure it all out...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Best thing would be to post in the general watercooling thread if you have any doubts after having read through the instructions that came with the block.


got the water block and back plate on one graphic card . I am doing m 2nd card and one of the screws with the spring is stripped


----------



## emsj86

So before I pulled the trigger or the mouse button. Can once again someone confirm that if I don't power my glacer pump and use a d5 on a tube res that it will not restrict?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thank you


And looks diameter is 49.8mm so thinking the clips from alpha cool that out 50mm would work. Be nice to know for sure bc I'd buy it in a second if I knew I could mount on my mobo tray or hdd cage


----------



## orndorf77

I installed both waterblocks and backplates to my gpu's. I put all the pads on the vram and vrm. but I did not realize the backplate came with pads too to put on the back pcb of the vram and vrm . is this important ?


----------



## ukic

Anyone here have Arc midi 2 and H240x yet? wonder if you have good clearance...


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Anyone here have Arc midi 2 and H240x yet? wonder if you have good clearance...


they released the switech h240x ?


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> they released the switech h240x ?


Yeah few weeks back.

http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Anyone here have Arc midi 2 and H240x yet? wonder if you have good clearance...


I tried stuffing an NZXT X60, which is slightly smaller than the 240-X, into a Midi 2....didn't work out so well on the top. It hits the 4/8-pin on the MB and heatsinks. You can drill holes to move it out toward the left side panel and it will fit.


----------



## emsj86

What would you recommend as a second pump/res photon d5 170 or ek d5 xres 140?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> For those using a H220x / H240x, what speed are you running your pump at? Is it loud?
> 
> After about two weeks of use with my H220x, my pump's gotten really loud and I've had to dial down my pump to 20% or 1500rpm, and even then there still a slight grumbling sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps are fine though.
> 
> Is there some kind of fix for the pump that I can do to help with the loud noise?


Idle I run the pump at 1800 rpm and load 2600. I've found that there is no temp difference between 2500 to 3000. My pump is quiet at all speeds. Just a low hum. Are you sure the system is completely bled?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I installed both waterblocks and backplates to my gpu's. I put all the pads on the vram and vrm. but I did not realize the backplate came with pads too to put on the back pcb of the vram and vrm . is this important ?


yea they are...although nowhere near as detrimental if you had 290s but yes please install them to help prolong the life of your card


----------



## spacetoast31

mine doesnt make any noise besides an almost silent hum


----------



## Mattb2e

@Bram, I was going to change my fluid today per your recommendation, however a when I opened the reservoir fill cap, I noticed something disturbing. It appears that my reservoir has rust in it, and the inside of the cap appears oxidized also. This is the first time I have opened it since I purchased it in April of 2013. How could rust accumulate in a closed system with deionized/distilled water and coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> @Bram, I was going to change my fluid today per your recommendation, however a when I opened the reservoir fill cap, I noticed something disturbing. It appears that my reservoir has rust in it, and the inside of the cap appears oxidized also. This is the first time I have opened it since I purchased it in April of 2013. How could rust accumulate in a closed system with deionized/distilled water and coolant?
> 
> IMAG1597_1.jpg 235k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMAG1600_1.jpg 545k .jpg file


These radiators are copper and brass. Therefore it isn't rust. It's just oxidization and it won't have any affect on the performance of your kit. This is perfectly normal. The same goes for the fill-port cap.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These radiators are copper and brass. Therefore it isn't rust. It's just oxidization and it won't have any affect on the performance of your kit. This is perfectly normal. The same goes for the fill-port cap.


Ok, that's good then, I was concerned







. Thanks again Bram.


----------



## orndorf77

my corsair air 540 does not support 360mm x-flow radiator with the h220x mounted on top. it would support a non x-flow 360mm radiator with the tubes running from the bottom front. and even then it is tricky because of the hard drive cages on the bottom of the case . I had to mount the h220x backwards with the tank facing the motherboard . and I had to mount it with one fan on the top of the h220x and with one on the bottom of the h220x. all I have to do is fill it now. I have a fill port extension attached to the reservoir. I can fill it but I will have to check the water level the same way as the old h220 non x . I am going to use this radiator temporarily untill I decide what to do . I will post pictures after I finished with it. keep in mind I am new to water cooling


----------



## expresso

I am looking to use a H220x or better yet the 240x - for my next system - but i have a question - my current case - Cosair 300R is too small a case

i am using this case with an antec 920 now - its about 2 years old - i may have to start over since my MB died on me - wanting on RMA now - in the meantime - i delided my 3770k hopefully it works once i get it back - in the event nothing works - i want to start over with a swiftech unit - and new case

does anyone have a list of which cases this unit will fit in on top mounted etc, ? i like the corsair cases - but cant use a really full tower case either - just too large for my space

any ides which cases i can research that will accept the H240X unit - i like corsair looks more or less - i was thinking the Vengence 70 i think its called - but i like to know from real users who have these cases that fit the unit -

any input or suggestions -

thanks -


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I tried stuffing an NZXT X60, which is slightly smaller than the 240-X, into a Midi 2....didn't work out so well on the top. It hits the 4/8-pin on the MB and heatsinks. You can drill holes to move it out toward the left side panel and it will fit.


Thanks. I might have to mod my 650D to fit a dual 120 rad in front







I couldn't find any 200mm rad that fits 650D without modding. Thanks


----------



## orndorf77

Im expanding my h220x and I am almost finished . I am trying to mount my graphics cards and I am having problems. I have my graphics card connected I just can't mount them. and there is no youtube video showing how to do it . how do I mount my water blocked gpu's in sli ? I have a koolance 2-3 slot sli connector and my motherboard is a msi z97 gaming 7


----------



## BangBangPlay

Gotta mount them first and then install the tubing and SLI connector once they are on the MB. You might be able to get a single card in if it were all hooked up, but two cards together with the SLI connector isn't gonna happen. Even in a very large case that would be very difficult to pull off. Disconnect the tubing and SLI fitting but leave the other fittings and plugs in each card. Mount them one by one and then install the SLI connector and connect the inlet and outlet tubing to each fitting.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Gotta mount them first and then install the tubing and SLI connector once they are on the MB. You might be able to get a single card in if it were all hooked up, but two cards together with the SLI connector isn't gonna happen. Even in a very large case that would be very difficult to pull off. Disconnect the tubing and SLI fitting but leave the other fittings and plugs in each card. Mount them one by one and then install the SLI connector and connect the inlet and outlet tubing to each fitting.


I connected the graphic cards with the sli fitting and I then mounted both cards at the same time I then connected the tubing


----------



## dreameer111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> Idle I run the pump at 1800 rpm and load 2600. I've found that there is no temp difference between 2500 to 3000. My pump is quiet at all speeds. Just a low hum. Are you sure the system is completely bled?


I do have two radiators and I believe there's still some air in one of them, but it's pretty impossible to get rid of it. I've been working on it all day, tilting the case, adjusting the pump speed, turning the pump on and off....nothing. Right now I'm at 1750rpm and there's a low grinding noise, any higher and it becomes too loud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> mine doesnt make any noise besides an almost silent hum


When I first got my h220x it was fairly quiet from what I remember. Now not at all.

It's funny I waited so long for the h220x to come out and now that I've been using it, I'm just pissed off at it. Doesn't help that the bleeding process on this is the worst I've experienced : /
I'll give it several more days, but I'm ready to just take a loss and dump this kit for something else


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> I do have two radiators and I believe there's still some air in one of them, but it's pretty impossible to get rid of it. I've been working on it all day, tilting the case, adjusting the pump speed, turning the pump on and off....nothing. Right now I'm at 1750rpm and there's a low grinding noise, any higher and it becomes too loud.
> When I first got my h220x it was fairly quiet from what I remember. Now not at all.
> 
> It's funny I waited so long for the h220x to come out and now that I've been using it, I'm just pissed off at it. Doesn't help that the bleeding process on this is the worst I've experienced : /
> I'll give it several more days, but I'm ready to just take a loss and dump this kit for something else


grinding is probably air in the pump itself...I dunno if it's covered under warranty (joking) but I slapped the crap out of mine to dislodge air bubble... having it disconnected from the case helps a lot too by that I mean not mounted but plumbed etc...after you get that air pocket out you might hear a sound akin to running water this is small bubbles still trapped in the impeller area...if you have a second res the little bubbles will work their way out to it in a bit of running if you don't have a second res it can be tricky to get them to stay in the res when they circulate through do you can top off....i highly and strongly recommend a second res for anyone adding to the h220x i will never be able to stress how much time and frustration it can save


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> I do have two radiators and I believe there's still some air in one of them, but it's pretty impossible to get rid of it. I've been working on it all day, tilting the case, adjusting the pump speed, turning the pump on and off....nothing. Right now I'm at 1750rpm and there's a low grinding noise, any higher and it becomes too loud.
> When I first got my h220x it was fairly quiet from what I remember. Now not at all.
> 
> It's funny I waited so long for the h220x to come out and now that I've been using it, I'm just pissed off at it. Doesn't help that the bleeding process on this is the worst I've experienced : /
> I'll give it several more days, but I'm ready to just take a loss and dump this kit for something else


It takes at least several days to completely bleed the H220X (and expanded loop) and it helps if you shut off/sleep your system too. That is why I have been suggesting that members add another reservoir or extended (transparent) fill port to help facilitate bleeding their loops after expansion.

I agree that the H220X is a pain to bleed, but aside from that it is the best expandable cooler available. I think Swiftech (and owners) would greatly benefit from an inverted version that could fit in the front of cases vertically. As of right now it is mainly limited to horizontal mounting and this could be why air is so easily trapped inside. If they made an inverted version with the reservoir on the opposite side it could be mounted in the front of the case and could be bleed very easily with the fill port facing upwards...


----------



## Feyris

If I Buy a H220X, What else will I need to expand it to the 7990 (I have XSPC Full coverage block) the thing is...while I have an AIO right now, Ive never done even semi custom and i do not trust myself with the right parts. CPU is stock 3770K, so im more concerned about cooling the GPU. Ive never really asked someone to make a "to buy" list though, all I know is barbs...and rest is a mystery, but i can figure out how to put it together if I have the right parts.

You wouldnt know how much Ide appreciate a "here buy X exact items" (as cheap as possible without skimping out TOO much) and your set to go" kind of approach to my newbyness


----------



## Mega Man

you want rads ( 120+120xeach component ) ie cpu +gpu =360 ( total amount IE 240 +120 ) 2 gpus + cpu = 480 ( this is just a general guideline you can do more/less )

tubing

barbs/clamps or comp fittings

res

pump ( or 2, i run min 2 in all my builds for redundancy )

Blocks

fans

that is all you need, everything else is extras


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you want rads ( 120+120xeach component ) ie cpu +gpu =360 ( total amount IE 240 +120 ) 2 gpus + cpu = 480 ( this is just a general guideline you can do more/less )
> 
> tubing
> 
> barbs/clamps or comp fittings
> 
> res
> 
> pump ( or 2, i run min 2 in all my builds for redundancy )
> 
> Blocks
> 
> fans
> 
> that is all you need, everything else is extras


and If i was going to buy a 220X to JUST cool 7990 then what, just the barbs and tubing?


----------



## Mega Man

and block


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and block


well I have a XSPC Razor HD 7990, So I (assume) H220X and that have same tubing sizes. so block is taken care of


----------



## Gavush

I got my H240-X installed. Installation went smoothly, I did have to ditch my optical drive but I had planned on that. I could had relocated to the bottom bay but decided I'll just plug it as needed - so far only used it to install the OS ~2yrs ago. Temps seem good - I've got 34 while surfing the web, and I saw 52 w/ a run on OCCT. This is with stock clock FX-8350. (now that I've got good cooling I can work on the oc) The water-block looks brilliant, very tron-esque. Album here



For those of you who have trouble removing the pins on the Apogee XL waterblock try using an X-acto knife:


----------



## expresso

I been out of the water cooling loop for a while - but is it worth adding an extra lets say 120mm Rad to the loop if you are using a H220X also - just to cool CPU ? or would this not make a difference ?

the CPU is for now 3770K OC'ed - if i can keep it cool - i had it at 4.7 before - if i upgrade at some point to the 4770K - i just want to keep it as cool as i can - so i can OC and stay with in Norm temps

thanks


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I been out of the water cooling loop for a while - but is it worth adding an extra lets say 120mm Rad to the loop if you are using a H220X also - just to cool CPU ? or would this not make a difference ?
> 
> the CPU is for now 3770K OC'ed - if i can keep it cool - i had it at 4.7 before - if i upgrade at some point to the 4770K - i just want to keep it as cool as i can - so i can OC and stay with in Norm temps
> 
> thanks


its not very cost effective and the temperature drop from 2x120 to 3x120 is subtle on a cpu only loop. having to buy more tubing, fittings, and a radiator makes it really cost prohibitive for performance(i actually ran the 220 and a 120 rad before i added my gpu a while back. nothing really changed) for reference, at the time, was running my delidded 3770k on a pretty high 1.33 volts


----------



## expresso

Hey - nice setup - i like it - i was waiting for someone who could confirm that it will fit in that case - i was thinking of upgrading my case to the same one you have - wasnt sure if the H220x would fit - but it seems as if the H240X fits - which is even better for me -

i see you added the hard drives in the DVD drive bays - nice idea - how many DVD drive bays does this block ? can i fit two dvd drives and a fan controller - - do you think a fan controller is needed or just use the MD to run the fans

how do you have it setup -

thanks -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> its not very cost effective and the temperature drop from 2x120 to 3x120 is subtle on a cpu only loop. having to buy more tubing, fittings, and a radiator makes it really cost prohibitive for performance(i actually ran the 220 and a 120 rad before i added my gpu a while back. nothing really changed) for reference, at the time, was running my delidded 3770k on a pretty high 1.33 volts


Ok thanks - since i been having this heating issue - i am looking to make sure i can cool this chip good - i have the 3770K - OC to 4.7 -
UD5H MD - antec 920 cooler - now my room is not the coolest place - but i tested it - all good - temps higher than most - but maxed it at 90's when full load for testing only - i been using 1.275V -

all good - i left it alone - two years later - i noticed it keep crashing - i started to watch the temps - way too high now - too hot - so i down clocked it and keep it stock with a 4.2 turbo - i put in stock volts - - i didnt leave it at Auto -

i had my case under my desk - all the time - so i opened it up - cleaned out the fans - filters - and i figured i change out the paste on the 920 since i used what it came with already installed - i changed out the fans also for no reason really but i wanted to use my courgar fans on the 920 - the stock was way too loud - when i use nero or dvd fab for video files etc, - its full speed

i went to put it back - turned it on and poof - a cloud of smoke out my top of case - that was it - turned out MD died - for some reason - was working fine before then besides the heat issue which i though was the cooler -

so now i RMA my board - waiting for it - and delided my chip - in hopes of putting it all back the same way with a cooler chip - if i did it good - if i didnt and it dosnt work - i am considering a new Case and the H240X - i like the C70 - didnt think the 240X fit in there but it seems as if it does - just blocks DVD slots - unless i use a 220X i think it wouldnt block it then - what big difference can the 240X make over the 220X ?


----------



## Gavush

I mounted my hard drives in the 5.25" bays using these brackets - there are three 5.25" bays in this case. I think you will be able to use the lower two for an optical drive when using the H240-X and the upper should fit a fan controller since they are typically much shorter than an optical drive. If you have an optical drive in the middle bay you will have to swivel/flex the tubing more towards the rear of the case rather than straight down but I'm quite sure the drive will clear the pump - it looks like 3/4"-1" of space and I think the optical drive only sticks 1/2" further into the case vs the bay.

Personally I have all PWM fans so I do not have to have a fan controller. I use Speedfan to set "rules" to adjust the fan speed automatically according to CPU temperature and GPU temperature. I am running all of the fans via the supplied PWM splitter with one signal from the MB. I have rules set on speedfan: if CPU is X temp set CPU fan to X% and GPU1 is X temp set CPU fan speed to X% and if GPU2 is X temp set CPU fan speed to X%. These are sliding scale graph type things. For a tutorial on speedfan see: 



.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I mounted my hard drives in the 5.25" bays using these brackets - there are three 5.25" bays in this case. I think you will be able to use the lower two for an optical drive when using the H240-X and the upper should fit a fan controller since they are typically much shorter than an optical drive. If you have an optical drive in the middle bay you will have to swivel/flex the tubing more towards the rear of the case rather than straight down but I'm quite sure the drive will clear the pump - it looks like 3/4"-1" of space and I think the optical drive only sticks 1/2" further into the case vs the bay.
> 
> Personally I have all PWM fans so I do not have to have a fan controller. I use Speedfan to set "rules" to adjust the fan speed automatically according to CPU temperature and GPU temperature. I am running all of the fans via the supplied PWM splitter with one signal from the MB. I have rules set on speedfan: if CPU is X temp set CPU fan to X% and GPU1 is X temp set CPU fan speed to X% and if GPU2 is X temp set CPU fan speed to X%. These are sliding scale graph type things. For a tutorial on speedfan see:
> 
> 
> 
> .


nice - i think thats the best way all PWM fans - i actually may have them already - right now i am undecided till i get my RMA MB back and see
but i like the Case for sure - and it fits the 240X - so the 220X would give me more room in the bays if i need it -

i have one SSD for OS - and Two WD Blacks - thats it - Two dvd drives and one fan controller - but if the PWM splitter works good - i can do away with the Fan controller - and i can also do away with one DVD burner if i have to - and just use my Blu ray DVD burner for both dvds and blurays -

i would love to mount my WD Blacks in the bays - and SSD but can always just put SSD on the bottom - small easy to do that i think or behind the case door ? with the wires ?

do you know if i can mount the WD drives in the bays ? or do i need a special bracket for that also ? what are your temps now ? difference between before and after using the 240X ?

thanks - was it hard to install - any issues - pumps etc, - i am not going to add a GPU Card - i dont really game - mostly video nero - etc, dvd fab converter - maybe later on if i decide i can add one - i just like a cool OC CPU -


----------



## expresso

would anyone know of a CPU Mobile stand that i can use for the C70 case if i get it - i would have to place it under my desk and like it on small mobile Stand so i can move i around easy to clean and check etc, -

i seen some on amazon but not sure if theres something i am missing and if it would work or not - since i dont have the case - i cant think of why it wouldnt work - i am sure it would sit on the cpu stand in the middle with the case feet hanging off the front and back of it should be stable ?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096KK76W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3U5RBQ2LAUELL&coliid=I2W5HNDITY7TR5

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MGBD/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3U5RBQ2LAUELL&coliid=I1Z8F9P8A7MHC6

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006V9AUMC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3U5RBQ2LAUELL&coliid=IU3HZPML2G0WW

which one of these would be best to hold the C70 ? keep it stable and easy to move - would be nice not to cover the sides alot but its not going to be on my desk so wont be looking at it much anyway


----------



## orndorf77

I am filling my h220x I had the pump running for 14 hours and when I stop and start my pump I hear water moving for the first minute and then it stops I also hear water moving when I move my case around with the pump off what is going on I had my pump running for 14 hours and when ever i go try to top it off there is no room for any more fluid . what is going on? my corsair air 540 did not support a 360mm x-flow radiator with the h220x mounted on the top it would have supported a non x- flow 360mm raditor I had to mount it like this.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> which one of these would be best to hold the C70 ? keep it stable and easy to move - would be nice not to cover the sides alot but its not going to be on my desk so wont be looking at it much anyway


Hey expresso maybe ask c70 questions at the c70 owners club thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1270969/official-corsair-vengeance-c70-gaming-case-owner-club


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I been out of the water cooling loop for a while - but is it worth adding an extra lets say 120mm Rad to the loop if you are using a H220X also - just to cool CPU ? or would this not make a difference ?
> 
> the CPU is for now 3770K OC'ed - if i can keep it cool - i had it at 4.7 before - if i upgrade at some point to the 4770K - i just want to keep it as cool as i can - so i can OC and stay with in Norm temps
> 
> thanks


the thing to know is that the more rads you add the less you gain, with that it isnt about being worth anything, it is about being worth it to you, one of my systems runs 5 480s ( monsta x3, ut60x1, xt45x1 )

my other i am in the process of rebuilding with 5x360 monstas

so you have to ask your self, what do you want, silence, small, max performance, each has its own needs and wants,

none will work well without appropriate fans


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am filling my h220x I had the pump running for 14 hours and when I stop and start my pump I hear water moving for the first minute and then it stops I also hear water moving when I move my case around with the pump off what is going on I had my pump running for 14 hours and when ever i go try to top it off there is no room for any more fluid . what is going on? my corsair air 540 did not support a 360mm x-flow radiator with the h220x mounted on the top it would have supported a non x- flow 360mm raditor I had to mount it like this.


The h220x takes time to bleed at least in my op...I hated doing it but I had another res to make it easier.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> The h220x takes time to bleed at least in my op...I hated doing it but I had another res to make it easier.


when you say bleed what do you mean ? is there more to it the just filling the resevoir ? and if there is how do I do it ? also do I have to run the pump until I stop hearing the water flowing sound ? and do I have to fill it untill I stop hearing water moving when I move my case with the pump turned off ?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the thing to know is that the more rads you add the less you gain, with that it isnt about being worth anything, it is about being worth it to you, one of my systems runs 5 480s ( monsta x3, ut60x1, xt45x1 )
> 
> my other i am in the process of rebuilding with 5x360 monstas
> 
> so you have to ask your self, what do you want, silence, small, max performance, each has its own needs and wants,
> 
> none will work well without appropriate fans


I am looking to get my next system - cool and quiet - the antec 920 is just too loud when i run it full load - and i dont feel its cooling enough for all that noise - it could be just me - if all goes well i can see how it works with the CPU delided - if that helps - i see - maybe with that will help keep it cooler along with the cougar fans - which were alot quieter for sure before i decided to try the stock fans -

not much of a difference in cooling maybe 1C or 2C cooler on stock fans but have to run full speed - so not worth it - next system i want it cool and quiet - reason i am thinking of the H220X or 240X
simple and cool - i hope anyway - i like to OC my chips all the time - i dont need it at 4.7 if temps are too high - but a good solid 4.5 - i would be ok with if the 240x can keep it cool - that be great

i went with antec 920 at the time - i was out of the game for some time - since my previous system was a old 7 years NFI MB with AMD - i had a full loop in there with 240 Rad - danger den for CPU and tubing with D5 pump etc, - i was good with that for a good 7 years before i got the itch for speed - and the 3770K was day and night over that - i expected it to be -

now i am used to the speed i have - i figured going with the 920 back then would keep it cool and quiet - i was wrong on both







but it could also be the 3770k just a hot Chip - if i didnt kill it when i delidded it - i am hoping that would take some heat down and temps more in the 70's during load at most - now if i ever get it back from Gigabyte so i can figure out which way i am going - i hate waiting for weeks and then find out i have to start over


----------



## orndorf77

when filling my h220x am I supposed to run the pump with the top of the resevoir ?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> when you say bleed what do you mean ? is there more to it the just filling the resevoir ? and if there is how do I do it ? also do I have to run the pump until I stop hearing the water flowing sound ? and do I have to fill it untill I stop hearing water moving when I move my case with the pump turned off ?


to get the air bubbles out, you've got to shake the case maybe even give the pump a gentle slap to dislodge any air that maybe trapped inside.


----------



## expresso

do these units come prefilled and ready to install ? is there any reason that someone would have to fill this when brand new -

wouldnt using the system just work out the air bubbles over time ? or is this something each user needs to do when first installed

i dont recall having to do anything with the antec 920 - at the time - the first custom loop i did - i didnt have any issues once i fully filled it up

i am hoping this is just a drop it in and turn it on system with minor work to get it going correctly


----------



## orndorf77

I finished my h220x expansion . my cpu temperatures stayed the same and my top gpu went from 80.c to 43.c and my bottom card went from 70.c to 46.c for some reason my bottom card is now hotter then my top card is this normal for liquid cooled gpu's


----------



## PontiacGTX

Hey guys.I have a doubt
has someone tried lappign the base of your cpu block?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I finished my h220x expansion . my cpu temperatures stayed the same and my top gpu went from 80.c to 43.c and my bottom card went from 70.c to 46.c for some reason my bottom card is now hotter then my top card is this normal for liquid cooled gpu's


weird but yes, out of my 3 cards, the first one to be hit/cooled by the water is the warmest.


----------



## orndorf77

here are some photos of my h220x cooloing my x2 gtx 780's . I had to install it like this to get it to fit

my temperatures are real good what do you think ? how does it look ?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How about an MCP50X to "play with"?


I may pick one of those up too.








I'll see, winter is coming and getting cold outside.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I may pick one of those up too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see, winter is coming and getting cold outside.


Yes, time to play/test/publish inside


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I am filling my h220x I had the pump running for 14 hours and when I stop and start my pump I hear water moving for the first minute and then it stops I also hear water moving when I move my case around with the pump off what is going on I had my pump running for 14 hours and when ever i go try to top it off there is no room for any more fluid . what is going on? my corsair air 540 did not support a 360mm x-flow radiator with the h220x mounted on the top it would have supported a non x- flow 360mm raditor I had to mount it like this.


the sound of water running for first little bit is really small air bubbles in the impeller area of the pump they get pulled in when pump starts I had to run the h220x and get the water a little warm to dislodge them as they seem to settle right back after pump turns off...or you may have air in a rad....


----------



## orndorf77

my expanded h220x . what do you think ? I had to install it this way to get it to fit



my temperatures are excellent


----------



## MaN227

1.can a killcoil or 2 be safely placed into the rez, with no worry of it doing any harm to anything? I've never used one so have no clue if its do-able or it they would clank around or what not.

2. I will assume the water is clear and that it just "looks" sorta blue?

3. can led's be changed or simply capped ? I'm assuming they are attached to the bottom of the pump housing.

4.I'm looking to have it "appear" RED, what choices would I have?

thanks

5. oh, one last thing are these "stock" fans any good? or should I be considering purchase of another brand of high static pressure fans?


----------



## mcnumpty23

this is a copy of my post on facebook regarding my h320 rma

should customers really have to post on facebook to get support?

this is not abusive,though may be considered by some as a rant

its also the opposite of all the praise i have previously given to swiftech support in this thread--which actually saddens

me as in a day and age where individuals feel they have no chance against a large company,i thought swiftech were

different

quoted from my facebook page

"SWIFTECH WATER COOLING PRODUCTS SUPPORT OR LACK OF SUPPORT

i was a long time fan of swiftech products

they stood for quality,innovation and above all had a reputation for having customer support that was outstanding, which is a rarity in these days of large companies

as a customer of theirs you didnt feel like just a number against a large company,and had faith if you had a problem that they would deal with it quickly and efficiently

that was until my second failure of a swiftech product.

a RMA was quickly granted,no complaints there,but 14 days later absolutely nothing from the company in europe who deals with their RMA

so now i feel like you do when you get a big company who just refuse to care if a customer has a problem,im annoyed,frustrated and feel like i am hitting a brick wall and will never get my problem resolved
but whats the loss of one customer to large companies?

in the past if asked would i recommend a swiftech product i would have answered absolutely.

now my reply is probably unprintable

SHOULD A CUSTOMER REALLY HAVE TO RESORT TO POSTING ON FACEBOOK TO TRY TO GET SUPPORT?

so i am venting my frustration in this post,should a swiftech employee happen to read it and would like to comment,
please feel free to do so"


----------



## VSG

Your last post in here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> got my replacement h320 today
> 
> havent been able to install it yet
> 
> but just to say,,swiftech support is outstanding,,and bryan was also outstanding with his help
> 
> for me the support given by a company if you have a problem is the most important thing
> 
> and swiftech provided the best support ive ever had from a pc component manufacturer
> 
> i wouldnt hesitate to use their products again or recommend them


So how is anyone supposed to know what happened in between? I fully sympathize with you, I've had similar issues with foreign companies also. But just sending a watercooling kit to Europe from the US can take 14 days or more, let alone the entire RMA process. Blame the customs and postal services there.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Your last post in here:
> So how is anyone supposed to know what happened in between? I fully sympathize with you, I've had similar issues with foreign companies also. But just sending a watercooling kit to Europe from the US can take 14 days or more, let alone the entire RMA process. Blame the customs and postal services there.


i have been pm,ing bryan in between,he authorized the RMA 14 days ago by sending an email to bacata in france--therefore bryan is aware of the circumstances

the RMA is dealt with by bacata in france as i am in the uk,it isnt shipped from the usa

i would have been perfectly happy to just be sent the pump from the usa but thats not how swiftech deal with it

the fault is with bacata,but they are the authorized RMA company of swiftech,so that also makes it swiftechs responsibility to make them do something

the one you quoted was my first rma--the replacement for that was dealt with ok--but the pump failed after 5 seconds

edited--i will try to explain my self clearer

the RMA procedure in the uk

i contact bryan and he suggests things to try to see if its fixable--did that

bryan sends an email with copy of my receipt to bacata in france--bryan did that

bacata email me a RMA number so i can send the kit to them in france and they send replacement--14 days later bacata havent sent an

email

no RMA number means the whole process is stalled

pm bryan again--did that

still waiting for RMA number from bacata

first RMA bacata emailed RMA number almost immediately,,hence my frustration after 14 days since bryan authorized RMA


----------



## orndorf77

no one answered me yet how does my expansion look like this ?



do you think i should change my 360mm radiator for a 280mm or 240mm radiator that will allow me to mount the h220x the way it was supposed to be mounted ? the max thickness radiator my case will support is 35mm my current 360mm radiator is 30mm thick . do you think i should change my radiator or it wouldn't be worth the temperature increase ?
my temperatures are excellent with the 360mm radiator my cpu temp went down 2.c and my gpu temperatures went from 80.c to 43.c for the top card and the temps for my bottom card went from 70c to 45.c . for some reason my top card runs cooler then my bottom card but even though my temperatures are excellent


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> no one answered me yet how does my expansion look like this ?
> 
> 
> 
> do you think i should change my 360mm radiator for a 280mm or 240mm radiator that will allow me to mount the h220x the way it was supposed to be mounted ? the max thickness radiator my case will support is 35mm my current 360mm radiator is 30mm thick . do you think i should change my radiator or it wouldn't be worth the temperature increase ?
> my temperatures are excellent with the 360mm radiator my cpu temp went down 2.c and my gpu temperatures went from 80.c to 43.c for the top card and the temps for my bottom card went from 70c to 45.c . for some reason my top card runs cooler then my bottom card but even though my temperatures are excellent


She looks tight in there but awesome you fit it all! Using a 280 would have been the way I would have gone, but you get better temps this way. Just hard to keep an eyes on coolant levels this way. Either way bravo! running front intake or exhaust?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> for some reason my top card runs cooler then my bottom card


Only answering this.

Yourcells VGA's are serial looped and the flow goes from VGA1 input -> VGA1 core(1st heat factor) -> VGA1 VRM(2nd heat factor) -> VGA1 output -> VGA2 input -> VGA2 VRM(3rd heat factor) -> VGA2 core(4th heat factor) -> VGA2 output.

Here you see that the last cooled part is the VGA2 core, and all the heat factors before it will add some temperature on top of it's cooling.

By parallel loop the 2 cores are closer to each others, but...

More about serial and parallel loops over here.

http://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting

The most important end quote:

"The configuration you use depends on your individual cooling system. A common misconception is that running parallel paths in the same loop is always better. Experimentation is usually suggested. Keep in mind that parallel lines reduce coolant pressure, so results will depend upon the pump and tubing configuration. In a serial system, only 2-3°C is typically added between video blocks.

To illustrate this point, let's say two video blocks are connected in series. The first video block is operating at 45°C, while the second is at 47°C. This is disturbing to some users. They want both video blocks at exactly the same temperature, so the blocks are reconnected in parallel. However, due to the pressure decrease of parallel paths and additional restrictions in the loop, both cards may now operate at 48°C. "

In here OCN, there is also thread for this debate:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1014950/sli-water-blocks-series-or-parallel


----------



## psyclist

Ok so I revised my plan to try and balance intake and exhaust. In the future if I add the other 290X into the loop I may run the H240X in the front and add a thick 360 up top. but the limiting factor at the moment is the need of one of the HD racks. Im going to move to 2.5's moving forward and put them in the 4 rear spots for extra radiator space upfront.

Anyone have any input? something I should switch around or change?


----------



## Feyris

Q; 220X Tubing is long enough to go straight to GPU or will i need new tubing?


----------



## delpy8

Guys how does the h240x compare to say the h320 and does anyone in the UK sell it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Ok so I revised my plan to try and balance intake and exhaust. In the future if I add the other 290X into the loop I may run the H240X in the front and add a thick 360 up top. but the limiting factor at the moment is the need of one of the HD racks. Im going to move to 2.5's moving forward and put them in the 4 rear spots for extra radiator space upfront.
> 
> Anyone have any input? something I should switch around or change?


That's about the same way that I would do it with that hardware.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Q; 220X Tubing is long enough to go straight to GPU or will i need new tubing?


You will likely need more tubing. I doubt that it will be long enough to reach your GPU.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Guys how does the h240x compare to say the h320 and does anyone in the UK sell it?


The H240X is very close in terms of performance to our H320. These should be available in Europe in about three to four weeks.


----------



## delpy8

Thanks found it in stock at highflow.nl


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> no one answered me yet how does my expansion look like this ?
> 
> 
> 
> do you think i should change my 360mm radiator for a 280mm or 240mm radiator that will allow me to mount the h220x the way it was supposed to be mounted ? the max thickness radiator my case will support is 35mm my current 360mm radiator is 30mm thick . do you think i should change my radiator or it wouldn't be worth the temperature increase ?
> my temperatures are excellent with the 360mm radiator my cpu temp went down 2.c and my gpu temperatures went from 80.c to 43.c for the top card and the temps for my bottom card went from 70c to 45.c . for some reason my top card runs cooler then my bottom card but even though my temperatures are excellent


I think you should do a slightly thicker 240-280mm rad and flip the H220X around. It wouldn't be as hard as you think to make the changes. Just get a rad with high fins per inch for added heat dissipation. You experienced filling and bleeding the loop without being able to see the res, it would be so much easier if it were flipped around. Not to mention it would look better and you could mount your fans properly too. Your temps won't change much either. I run the H220X and a 240mm rad and saw basically the same drop in temps as what you are reporting now.

My top card also ran slightly cooler than the bottom and it's due to the the flow. The top card gets cooler water first and then the bottom gets slightly warmer water from the top card's heat transfer. It was only 1C difference, but occasionally it would go to 2C. Nothing to worry about, as long as you did a good thermal paste job...


----------



## MaN227

can someone please give me measurement from from (installed) the back edge of the rad out to the water pump on the h240x?

and would this measurement be the same from left edge of pump to right edge of pump? is there a hose on the back side of the pump?

sorry, but I'm having a hard time picturing these things, as I'm assuming the back side of the pump is no more than 2 1/2 " from the front fat edge of the metal frame and would perhaps clear the heat sink fins on my memory dimms.

have corsair 760T and it can support a 3 fan rad, and I'm curious if I can install the 240x in the back two mount points as I can't loose my optical bays (3.5's)


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I think you should do a slightly thicker 240-280mm rad and flip the H220X around. It wouldn't be as hard as you think to make the changes. Just get a rad with high fins per inch for added heat dissipation. You experienced filling and bleeding the loop without being able to see the res, it would be so much easier if it were flipped around. Not to mention it would look better and you could mount your fans properly too. Your temps won't change much either. I run the H220X and a 240mm rad and saw basically the same drop in temps as what you are reporting now.
> 
> My top card also ran slightly cooler than the bottom and it's due to the the flow. The top card gets cooler water first and then the bottom gets slightly warmer water from the top card's heat transfer. It was only 1C difference, but occasionally it would go to 2C. Nothing to worry about, as long as you did a good thermal paste job...


the radiator I have now is 30mm thick . I can possibly put a 40mm tick or 45mm thick 240 radiator but the fans would kind of be be choked by my graphics cards . with a 280mm radiator I would have problems with getting a fill port in there . I actually don't think it looks bad the way it is . it just looks less flashy . I used x2 corsair h100i replacement fans on the swiftech h220x and I used 3 swiftech 120mm pwm fans on the 360mm radiator because for some reason I was not able to get my x3 corsair 120mm pwm h100i replacement fans on the 360mm radiator with the provided radiator screws the fan holes on the corsair fans are tighter then the swiftech fans . I also had to replace the rear 140mm default case fan with a corsair 120mm h100i pwm replacement fan so I could get a fill port in there


in the future when it comes time for me to fill it again I will just get a bigger case that supports it better . when do you think I will have to fill it again ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

I misunderstood your clearance, and thought you could only fit a 35mm rad. If you can get a 45mm rad Id do it, but that's me. I am obsessive with things like that and it would bother me to no end having the H220x backwards. You could have mounted the H220X in the front of the case too, but it would also be backwards. The fill port would be more accessible like that though.

You don't always need the fill port, you can install it to help fill the res and then take it off and reinstall the cap. You should change your coolant every 6 months to help prevent galvanic corrosion and alge inside the loop. Also if you make any changes or need to remove a component the loop will have to be drained and refilled. I have already had to refill my loop 5-6 times since first assembling it over the summer.


----------



## mcnumpty23

For those in the uk the h240x is available as delpy8 said from highflow.nl

Works out at todays exchange rate including delivery and if you pay by paypal theres a surcharge for that,,,,,total cost delivered £145 approx

So i would expect it to come in around the £129 mark when its available in the uk shops,,£145 from holland still looks like a good price for what you get


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaN227*
> 
> can someone please give me measurement from from (installed) the back edge of the rad out to the water pump on the h240x?
> 
> and would this measurement be the same from left edge of pump to right edge of pump? is there a hose on the back side of the pump?
> 
> sorry, but I'm having a hard time picturing these things, as I'm assuming the back side of the pump is no more than 2 1/2 " from the front fat edge of the metal frame and would perhaps clear the heat sink fins on my memory dimms.
> 
> have corsair 760T and it can support a 3 fan rad, and I'm curious if I can install the 240x in the back two mount points as I can't loose my optical bays (3.5's)


If the drawing on swiftechs website is to scale you should be able to work it out from the drawing

http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx#tab2

Edited,,maybe not,,as the drawing doesnt show from end on or bottom


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The H240X is very close in terms of performance to our H320. These should be available in Europe in about three to four weeks.


You mean the 240X or H320 ?

Because the highflow.nl website page say they have 240X *in stock*.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> You mean the 240X or H320 ?
> 
> Because the highflow.nl website page say they have 240X *in stock*.


think he means the h240x will be WIDELY available in europe

at the moment only seen them in stock at highflow.nl


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> think he means the h240x will be WIDELY available in europe
> 
> at the moment only seen them in stock at highflow.nl


Still have to wait for confirmation from them since they are away until 17th October. All orders will be shipped from 20th though.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Still have to wait for confirmation from them since they are away until 17th October. All orders will be shipped from 20th though.


im keeping an eye on specialtech.co.uk

got a feeling they may be the place to get the h240x from in the uk


----------



## MaN227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> If the drawing on swiftechs website is to scale you should be able to work it out from the drawing
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx#tab2
> 
> Edited,,maybe not,,as the drawing doesnt show from end on or bottom


I guess I was not clear, as I have looked at the very same "drawings" you linked to on their site.

to make it more simple you can't see what I"m asking in this photo at all.

I'm asking about the distance from the back edge of the rad to the BACK side of the pump. the photo shows pump side to side not front to back. as you look at it.

hope that is clear

imagine looking at it turned around 180 degrees so your looking at the back long side of rad that does NOT have the metal frame that holds the frame that pump mounts to, and simply what is distance from the edge of rad to the pump.

as said I want to install rad in the back 2 of 3 fan mount points and want to know if it will clear the memory.

surely someone can provide this info....

all other measurements look good

*EDIT hey I FINALLY found a photo to show what I'm talking about*
in this fellows photos *pic 17*

please look at this photo and reply









http://www.overclock.net/g/i/2204665/a/1256666/swiftech-h240-x-cooler/

looking at that photo there are 3 "points" I would like to know.

1. from bottom front corner to the "step" up along the right side where it gets "fat"

2. from bottom left to the right most hose attachment.

3. from bottom left to the back side of pump housing.

I will VERY MUCH appreciate this info, I want the h240x but can't give up my 5.25 optical bays.

its all about clearing the memory heat sinks.

thanks


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaN227*
> 
> I will VERY MUCH appreciate this info, I want the h240x but can't give up my 5.25 optical bays.
> 
> thanks


using the picture for reference. Your 140mm middle fan left mounting screws are a few mm away from the middle 120mm fan left mounting screws.


So if you look at this picture you can see that the h220 rad and tubes extend further than the mounting points of the 140mm fan and still clears the disk drive that is installed.


Since the h240x practically fits flush with the fans(minutely wider) then it will fit comfortably without affecting your optical drives. Also the 760t has a lot of head room above the motherboard as seen in the picture above, the h240x pump and res will clear ram easily, it was made to do so. So unless you have extremely tall heat spreaders or a ram cooler then you have no problem. Hope this helps.


----------



## emsj86

So I scratched the itch and now have mcp50x Po being shipped out , a reservior, rotary fittings, 360 radiator, and ek supremacy clear version. Gonna be so nice. Can't wait


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> the radiator I have now is 30mm thick . I can possibly put a 40mm tick or 45mm thick 240 radiator but the fans would kind of be be choked by my graphics cards . with a 280mm radiator I would have problems with getting a fill port in there . I actually don't think it looks bad the way it is . it just looks less flashy . I used x2 corsair h100i replacement fans on the swiftech h220x and I used 3 swiftech 120mm pwm fans on the 360mm radiator because for some reason I was not able to get my x3 corsair 120mm pwm h100i replacement fans on the 360mm radiator with the provided radiator screws the fan holes on the corsair fans are tighter then the swiftech fans . I also had to replace the rear 140mm default case fan with a corsair 120mm h100i pwm replacement fan so I could get a fill port in there
> 
> 
> in the future when it comes time for me to fill it again I will just get a bigger case that supports it better . when do you think I will have to fill it again ?


a great good water cool case option is the enthoo pro. Window version goes from 80-100 dollars and it's amazing check YouTube hardware Canucks review


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> a great good water cool case option is the enthoo pro. Window version goes from 80-100 dollars and it's amazing check YouTube hardware Canucks review


I have that case and I do while heartedly recommend it... if you are planning 3 large rads it won't be easy expecially if one is the h220x. But for the money easily the best case I've used


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaN227*
> 
> *EDIT hey I FINALLY found a photo to show what I'm talking about*
> in this fellows photos *pic 17*
> - please look at this photo and reply


Hey MaN227 - I'll try to get those measurements for you this evening. I was looking over at it this morning while reading your question and I think it'll clear, I think the biggest thing will be clearing the plumbing on the end of the radiator rather than the pump.


----------



## expresso

has anyone tested the new H240X ? how big a difference is there from the H220X - temps etc, - i may want to add one to a future build -
on a Corsair C70 case -

the 240X may fit but i think blocks a drive bay on top - so if there isnt a big difference - the H220X will fit better and not block the drive bay i think

i like to know if anyone is using one - or any professional reviews done yet - etc, - i cant seem to find any when i google


----------



## Someone09

Maybe I have overread this but how much heat can the H240x dissipate?
Or in other words: Would it be enough to cool two 780Tis with no CPU and no additional radiator?


----------



## DrInsano

Hey there, just joined to post my results:

I just got my H240-X in on Monday (Columbus Day, Thanks UPS!). It fits for sure in a Corsair Air 540. I can't fit another 140mm fan on bottom for a pull fan, since the mobo 8 pin power gets in the way.

I just want to say that installing the entire unit, was quite the pain. With my AMD mobo, I have to remove the screws and put on the appropriate AMD bracket. It took a lot of force just to remove the little washers on the screws. Also, it wasn't easy installing the water block with just one hand, while holding the backplate in place. Mounting it to the top of my case wasn't an easy task either. Since when did PC building turn into a 2 man job? Maybe I'm just an idiot, but it took me like an hour to install the whole unit. Whatevs.

As for cooling performance? Well...It gets a bit tricky. I just upgraded my mobo to a Crosshair V Formula-Z a couple days before I got the watercooler, and used a 990FXA-UD5 previously. My old Thermalright cooler didn't fit on the new mobo, so I don't exactly have comparable numbers. But before on the old mobo, I was running around 4.65 ghz, at 1.45V. I was hitting around 65C on CPU temp (package) running IBT, sometimes I would approach 70C before I would just stop stress testing altogether.

Then I upgraded to current mobo and had to use stock cooling (ugh). It was actually not bad, running stock settings and I had a hard time getting it to 60C. Of course this was temporary until I got my H240-X in.

Now I'm running at 4.76ghz or so, at 1.46V with the H240-X. I'm still dialing in my OC, hoping for that magical 5ghz+. And yeah....my CPU temp reaches about 56C or so. It's quite a bit cooler, running at a higher clock, and higher voltage. I'm also running a quiet fan setting. At idle my rig is pretty whisper quiet (or as quiet as this POS case will allow).

My apartment was pretty warm today (80F outside is unusual in Pittsburgh this time of year), so I expect better results when it gets colder out.

I would for sure recommend this to whoever was on the fence on buying it. The quality of the whole unit is pretty nice, aside from my troubles mounting it.

My rig specs:
AMD FX-8350
ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z
16GB Crucial RAM
EVGA GTX 770 Classified SLI
Corsair HX850 PSU
Corsair Air 540 Case


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrInsano*
> 
> Hey there, just joined to post my results:
> 
> I just got my H240-X in on Monday (Columbus Day, Thanks UPS!). It fits for sure in a Corsair Air 540. I can't fit another 140mm fan on bottom for a pull fan, since the mobo 8 pin power gets in the way.
> 
> I just want to say that installing the entire unit, was quite the pain. With my AMD mobo, I have to remove the screws and put on the appropriate AMD bracket. It took a lot of force just to remove the little washers on the screws. Also, it wasn't easy installing the water block with just one hand, while holding the backplate in place. Mounting it to the top of my case wasn't an easy task either. Since when did PC building turn into a 2 man job? Maybe I'm just an idiot, but it took me like an hour to install the whole unit. Whatevs.
> 
> As for cooling performance? Well...It gets a bit tricky. I just upgraded my mobo to a Crosshair V Formula-Z a couple days before I got the watercooler, and used a 990FXA-UD5 previously. My old Thermalright cooler didn't fit on the new mobo, so I don't exactly have comparable numbers. But before on the old mobo, I was running around 4.65 ghz, at 1.45V. I was hitting around 65C on CPU temp (package) running IBT, sometimes I would approach 70C before I would just stop stress testing altogether.
> 
> Then I upgraded to current mobo and had to use stock cooling (ugh). It was actually not bad, running stock settings and I had a hard time getting it to 60C. Of course this was temporary until I got my H240-X in.
> 
> Now I'm running at 4.76ghz or so, at 1.46V with the H240-X. I'm still dialing in my OC, hoping for that magical 5ghz+. And yeah....my CPU temp reaches about 56C or so. It's quite a bit cooler, running at a higher clock, and higher voltage. I'm also running a quiet fan setting. At idle my rig is pretty whisper quiet (or as quiet as this POS case will allow).
> 
> My apartment was pretty warm today (80F outside is unusual in Pittsburgh this time of year), so I expect better results when it gets colder out.
> 
> I would for sure recommend this to whoever was on the fence on buying it. The quality of the whole unit is pretty nice, aside from my troubles mounting it.
> 
> My rig specs:
> AMD FX-8350
> ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z
> 16GB Crucial RAM
> EVGA GTX 770 Classified SLI
> Corsair HX850 PSU
> Corsair Air 540 Case


The AMD mounting can be a little tricky due to the fact that there are more brackets that need to be installed and the original mounting system needs to be removed first. I'm glad that you like this kit though and please post some pictures when you get the chance. I'd love to see how it looks in the Air 540.


----------



## Gavush

I have a h240-x. No review yet but pics in one if my albums.

I liked how the AMD mounting used the nice heavy steel AMD back plate. I put a couple of pieces of electrical tape to hold it to the mobo initially. I placed a balled up microfiber rag on my desk then laid the case over it such that the rag supported the backplate so I didn't have to hold it in place.

I also used a piece of electrical tape on each fan to hold them in place on the radiator while mounting up in my case.

I agree that the intel mounting pins were difficult to remove from the water block.

So far as temps go I went from a 212evo or dark knight II (I have both, tried both and they were equal performance for me) to this and dropped 10c under load - fx-8350 stock clocks. From ~62c to ~52c with occt.

I also noticed that the exhaust air coming out of the back of my case isn't like a hair dryer anymore.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I also noticed that the exhaust air coming out of the back of my case isn't like a hair dryer anymore.


You should see my setup with a marginally small case with 4 fans on push pull (h220 not x, have a bunch of fans already despite not being effective)and only 1 fan for exhaust(too lazy to install a second for exhaust push pull on the back). The thing is pretty much a silent hairdryer blowing essentially all the air inside the case


----------



## DrInsano

My phone doesn't like LEDs, so it's hard to get a good shot of it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrInsano*
> 
> 
> My phone doesn't like LEDs, so it's hard to get a good shot of it.


It still looks great! It's hard to tell in the photo, but how much ram clearance do you think you have? It should be more than the H220 would have had though.


----------



## emsj86

Just picked up mcp50x , bitspower reservior 150ml, 360 rad to go with my 240 rad, ek cpu block copper plexi supremacy, and a bunch of compressions 45s/90s/drain port, an some carbon fiber wrap. Will give my impressions on the mcp50x pump along with pictures. All going into my phanteks case. Very excited to get it together and mix the blue pastel up. The Blue Blurry is says away


----------



## spacetoast31

@BramSLI1 Just curious, have there been any tests pertaining to mounting the h220x vertically? As to maybe putting it on the front of my case as opposed to the top? It obviously is meant for top mount and im sure it would be sufficient enough for being front mount but just wasnt sure. I picked up a 450D for 60 dollars and i kindcof considered swapping cases (I use the h440) And yes, i could easily mount it to the top of the 450d but i also have the mcr360 rad up ftront which the 450 only supports 280 max so i would have to top mount the 360 and front mount the 220x. Just a thought, and chances are, i will keep the 440 anyways but yea never know.


----------



## DrInsano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It still looks great! It's hard to tell in the photo, but how much ram clearance do you think you have? It should be more than the H220 would have had though.


Lots. I have the super low profile Crucial Ballistix RAM, It's not even as tall as the clamps that hold it in. But with the cooler, even the crazy tall heatsink RAM should fit no problem. Of course different configurations will vary, but almost everyone shouldn't have any problems with clearance.


----------



## 2003M36sp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Maybe I have overread this but how much heat can the H240x dissipate?
> Or in other words: Would it be enough to cool two 780Tis with no CPU and no additional radiator?


No you would want/need another rad min 220. I'm running a 7970/8350 @ 4.5ghz with a heatkilla 79X0 block stock 220 rad another 240 rad and single bay res. I'm very happy with temps even when the system is near silent.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2003M36sp*
> 
> No you would want/need another rad min 220. I'm running a 7970/8350 @ 4.5ghz with a heatkilla 79X0 block stock 220 rad another 240 rad and single bay res. I'm very happy with temps even when the system is near silent.


I don't know about that as it all depends on which radiators, fans, and his fan curves as I was able to achieve great temps with a single Alphacool Monsta 120 with a 4770K and single GTX 780Ti as i'm sure adding another 120MM rad or even a 240 would be sufficient adding another GTX 780Ti









*Benchmarks*

*3DMark Firestrike*


Spoiler: 3D Mark: Firestrike



*Score:* 9957
*CPU Core:* 3.9Ghz (Stock)
*GPU Core:* 1046 mhz (Overclocked)

*CPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 39C / 43C
*GPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 36C / 44C

*Link:* http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/4196284

*3DMark Firestrike*





*HWINFO 64 Intel i7 4770K*


*HWINFO 64 Nvidia GTX 780Ti*




*Battlefield 4 Multiplayer*


Spoiler: Battlefield 4!



*CPU Core:* 3.9Ghz (Stock)
*GPU Core:* 1046 mhz (Overclocked)

*CPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 34C / 45C
*GPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 31C / 47C

*Battlefield 4*







*HWINFO 64 Intel i7 4770K*


*HWINFO 64 Nvidia GTX 780Ti*




*Unigine Heaven 4.0*


Spoiler: Unigine Heaven 4.0



*Score:* 1485
*FPS:* 58.9
*Min FPS:* 8.5
*Max FPS:* 122.3
*CPU Core:* 3.9Ghz (Stock)
*GPU Core:* 1046 mhz (Overclocked)

*CPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 33C / 40C
*GPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 30C / 43C

*Unigine Heaven 4.0*







*HWINFO 64 Intel i7 4770K*



*HWINFO 64 Nvidia GTX 780Ti*





*Metro Last Light*


Spoiler: Metro Last Light



*CPU Core:* 3.9Ghz (Stock)
*GPU Core:* 1046 mhz (Overclocked)

*Ambient temperature:* 23C
*CPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 36C / 43C
*GPU temperature (Min) / (Max):* 34C / 45C

*Metro Last Light*









*HWINFO 64 Intel i7 4770K*



*HWINFO 64 Nvidia GTX 780Ti*





I know i know its a different build but whatever, it's possible









*SOURCE* Link


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Anyone in here have a fractal r2 midi case? Im putting together a new build and wanted to get the 240x to mount up top. I just want to make sure it fits without removing the optical bays. Also does the r2 midi fit a 280mm rad in the front comfortably? Also anyone know how thick it can be with moving the HDD cage back. I got a few drives so i need the bottom cage in there.

The case is on its way from new egg, but im waiting to order everything until i get it just to see how its going to work.

Right now im planning on putting this inside it:
i7 4790k
2x MSI 970 4G cards
Asus z97 hero
16gb of corsair vengence pro 1866.

Hopefully i should get good temps with 2x 280 rads with the 2cpu and 2 gpus watercooled. Just wish ek would hurry up with there waterblock.

Ive never watercooled before because it always seemed so complicated but im looking forward to trying it out with the 240x.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Anyone in here have a fractal r2 midi case? Im putting together a new build and wanted to get the 240x to mount up top. I just want to make sure it fits without removing the optical bays. Also does the r2 midi fit a 280mm rad in the front comfortably? Also anyone know how thick it can be with moving the HDD cage back. I got a few drives so i need the bottom cage in there.


The hH240x will fit, but to fins out on the thickness in the front with the hdd cage still in maybe you should over to the fractal forum

Corsair's H110 for reference.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> The hH240x will fit, but to fins out on the thickness in the front with the hdd cage still in maybe you should over to the fractal forum
> 
> Corsair's H110 for reference.


Thanks for the pic. Its give me a better idea now, i watched a video on someone running a h110 in the r2, but they were to busy showing off the rest of the pc for me to get a good look. I asked over in the fractal owners club thread just waiting for a response now, so hopefully someone tried it. If not my case is supposed to be here friday so i will have to measure everything to make sure. I do hope it fits though.


----------



## MaN227

questions for all that have the h220x and the h240x. regarding fans.

1. FANS: are you using them to pull air INTO the case (stock mounted) or to exhaust air OUT of the case?

I ask this for a 2 fold reason.
1 I am certain pulling air into the case will "test" better, understood. but ...
2 I'm also certain the rad fins would get very gunked/plugged up, before to long, negating the "advantage" of having them pulling air into the case. And what dust the rad does not "catch" will just wind up inside the case.

no interest what so ever to run any intake fans unfiltered.

I live in a very OLD house, its dusty and I don't run any intake fans that are not filtered. and as often as I clean the front intake filter I'm sure running an h2**x at stock fan mounting would result in a plugged up inefficient rad with stock fan mounting. though, perhaps I'm missing something as to why anyone would want fans pulling in air.


----------



## emsj86

a little carbon fiber wrap. Going to wrap power supply, optical drive and I think I might wrap in used pci slots (if not now maybe later bc if it's too hard to do without removing my mobo than I'll wait until another time). 360 rad, ek cpu block, and 360 going in tomorrow


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaN227*
> 
> questions for all that have the h220x and the h240x. regarding fans.
> 
> 1. FANS: are you using them to pull air INTO the case (stock mounted) or to exhaust air OUT of the case?
> 
> I ask this for a 2 fold reason.
> 1 I am certain pulling air into the case will "test" better, understood. but ...
> 2 I'm also certain the rad fins would get very gunked/plugged up, before to long, negating the "advantage" of having them pulling air into the case. And what dust the rad does not "catch" will just wind up inside the case.
> 
> no interest what so ever to run any intake fans unfiltered.
> 
> I live in a very OLD house, its dusty and I don't run any intake fans that are not filtered. and as often as I clean the front intake filter I'm sure running an h2**x at stock fan mounting would result in a plugged up inefficient rad with stock fan mounting. though, perhaps I'm missing something as to why anyone would want fans pulling in air.


Swiftech has stated and linus had proven that there is no difference in having the fans pull or pull on the h220 and h220x. The fans on the h220x are set to pull air through the rad and push it out through the top of this case. This setup also minimizes the dust that falls into and on the rad as the fans are blocking most of the area. Once you have your intakes filtered you shouldn't have to worry about a dusty rad.


----------



## Gavush

*@MaN227*

See if this helps - measurements are approximate - it's hard to do in the case. I say +/- a couple mm.


----------



## emsj86

Is it safe to have 3 sp120 fans on one pwm fan header my manual says 1amp total 12 watts and they pull .18 per fan but wasn't sure if during start up that would be different. I ask this bc I see pwm spittlers like swiftech a have the sata connector for added power


----------



## YroPro

Hey, I checked the website and the radiator H240x is listed as 290mm x 140mm x 115mm. So from end to end at it's longest the 240x is only 290mm?? If so that would be extremely impressive and help with my fitting a 280 and 360 in my 540 Air. Most 280's seem to run about 324x144x??mm.

If someone could confirm this, that would be great so I can go ahead and order my replacement for my entire 2 week old 220x lol.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2003M36sp*
> 
> No you would want/need another rad min 220. I'm running a 7970/8350 @ 4.5ghz with a heatkilla 79X0 block stock 220 rad another 240 rad and single bay res. I'm very happy with temps even when the system is near silent.


Hm...but has anyone tried hooking up just two GPUs to the H240x yet?
I mean, a 4770k and a 780Ti seem to work with good temps and noise. Would be just around 150W more to dissipate.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it safe to have 3 sp120 fans on one pwm fan header my manual says 1amp total 12 watts and they pull .18 per fan but wasn't sure if during start up that would be different. I ask this bc I see pwm spittlers like swiftech a have the sata connector for added power


Be advised running that many Corsair fans on just one header might not even work properly. Not because of the amperage they draw, but the PWM signal can become weak when split that many times. PWM fans use a fixed voltage draw anyways. Some people have this exact issue with the Swiftech 8 way splitter when using 5+ Corsair SP fans. You might get away with using three, but I wouldn't do more than 2 per header.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Be advised running that many Corsair fans on just one header might not even work properly. Not because of the amperage they draw, but the PWM signal can become weak when split that many times. PWM fans use a fixed voltage draw anyways. Some people have this exact issue with the Swiftech 8 way splitter when using 5+ Corsair SP fans. You might get away with using three, but I wouldn't do more than 2 per header.


Well there is kinda my issue I have mcp50x pump and. 3 pwm corsair air fans. Before I only had 2 corsair fans on cpu opt and my pump on the pwm cpu fan. I don't have any other pwm headers I wouldn't mind 2 on cpu opt and pump and 1 fan on cpu fan but would that mess with my pump ?


----------



## Vlada011

Is it possible someone to try to install and CPU and GPU on Swiftech H220 or H240X?
Then we can see temperatures and is it 120mm radiator really necessary or.
Maybe we talk about some acceptable temps with 240mm radiator.
One 120mm is for both chip on R9-295X.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Is it possible someone to try to install and CPU and GPU on Swiftech H220 or H240X?
> Then we can see temperatures and is it 120mm radiator really necessary or.
> Maybe we talk about some acceptable temps with 240mm radiator.
> One 120mm is for both chip on R9-295X.


Initially I had my h220 non x expanded to cool my cpu and a 780 and during stress testing my co maxed out around the mid 70s and my gpu never passed 50 degrees Celsius. I'm pretty sure the x variants should rub at least 2-5 degrees cooler so no need to worry.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Is it possible someone to try to install and CPU and GPU on Swiftech H220 or H240X?
> Then we can see temperatures and is it 120mm radiator really necessary or.
> Maybe we talk about some acceptable temps with 240mm radiator.
> One 120mm is for both chip on R9-295X.


Without over clocks it's very possible to be done and I'd feel confident it would work. Now amd cards run hotter than nvida so gotta factor that in. If your overclocking you will need a little more cooling. Also your fans probably be running at top rpm so will be kinda loud but not everyone cares


----------



## gagac1971

hello guys i have one question...
can i add on my H220 one more pump which work on different speed-higher speed?
whit H 220 i will have this http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4
can i add this setup to H220?


----------



## emsj86

bleeding right now. But changed out my expanded glacer for this new 360 rad, ek supremacy block, bitspower res, fittings, and the prize of it all swiftech mcp50x what do you think I can post more pictures if needed


----------



## emsj86




----------



## emsj86

blue blurry enthoo pro by itzems


----------



## springs113

Looks awesome, I love that blue as well. If I remembered correctly you did have a drain tube attached to the gpu before right?


----------



## emsj86

That would be me needless to say I didn't help much. So now it's gone. But I'm having an issues with my cpu temp. Idle is 40-60. I got flow through the whole loop, I tried reseating the ek block. Any ideas? I think it might be the jet plates even though I installed the ones for amd


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That would be me needless to say I didn't help much. So now it's gone. But I'm having an issues with my cpu temp. Idle is 40-60. I got flow through the whole loop, I tried reseating the ek block. Any ideas? I think it might be the jet plates even though I installed the ones for amd


what are your load temps like?
What is the pump [email protected] idle?
I find that my idle temps stay around 30-40 but I like a quiet pc so I have the pump [email protected] roughly 1300rpm. Not to mention the 290s run a lil warmer than NVidia a offerings so I expect that to be the culprit of running a lil warmer than I'd like, but then I look at my overall load temps...which are great. My stress temps don't pass 65 ever.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> what are your load temps like


load temps go up fast and I shut it down before it hits. 80


----------



## YroPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> load temps go up fast and I shut it down before it hits. 80


What CPU? Some should not be run through 95 because no matter what they will hit absurd temps. (4790k for example)

Edit you can use others though like Passmark and Cinebench.


----------



## emsj86

Fx 8350 so. 50-60 idle and load that gets to. 80 in two minutes is not normal wonder if I have the wrong jet plate and insert installed. It's ek supremacy evo


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Fx 8350 so. 50-60 idle and load that gets to. 80 in two minutes is not normal wonder if I have the wrong jet plate and insert installed. It's ek supremacy evo


not familiar with ek cpu blocks, but as far as prime goes, I stop using it for stability testing. I use Asus realbench, valley, heaven and fire strike and also aida64. Thoseare close enough to real world.


----------



## emsj86

I hear what your saying and thank you for trying to help. Problem isn't with stress test or thermal paste. It can't even handle idle. Something is eithe wrong with how I installed inserts or jet plates : inserts. (Or with the block a together) I'll have to try it again upon getting home from work hopefully I did something dumb and inserted it the wrong way (the directions our not the best with seeing how things are placed). Hopefully I will be running tonight bc I want to do what we so play some games!!


----------



## YroPro

Try using an actual benchmark like Cinebench/Passmark/others I can't name. Those are far more "real world" scenarios. No game/program will ever sit there and literally bombard your processor with a stream of increasingly complex and large prime numbers...ever lol.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gagac1971*
> 
> hello guys i have one question...
> can i add on my H220 one more pump which work on different speed-higher speed?
> whit H 220 i will have this http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4
> can i add this setup to H220?


Yes, you can add another pump and reservoir to this kit if you wish. Having the pumps run at a different speeds won't be an issue. One will just aid the other and also offer redundancy should one pump fail.


----------



## gagac1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can add another pump and reservoir to this kit if you wish. Having the pumps run at a different speeds won't be an issue. One will just aid the other and also offer redundancy should one pump fail.


thank you so much for your answer.....


----------



## Caos

doubt. I have a 4790k to 4.5, BF4 playing for an hour or two, maximum temperature is 70 ° C, it is normal? in my country right now is in 41 ° C heat.

I use a H220x


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> doubt. I have a 4790k to 4.5, BF4 playing for an hour or two, maximum temperature is 70 ° C, it is normal? in my country right now is in 41 ° C heat.
> 
> I use a H220x


41c is a very high ambient temperature so that sounds right to me after a couple of hours gaming

but maybe some one else whos used to 41c temperatures will know better than me--it doesnt get that hot here


----------



## expresso

i get high temp in my apt. and if you reach only max 70C full load - i would say thats great considering your avg. room temp

i have a 3770k - at 4.7 1.275v - and it gets hotter then 70c at full load - i have delided my cpu - didnt put it back yet - waiting on my RMA of mobo - hoping to cool it down - if i can get 70C on full load - i be happy - since my apt. is pretty warm also -

i think my idle temps were in the 30's to 36 or 38C - i am using a antec 920 cooler - hopefully its not the cooler when i put it all back -
i may just OC up to 4.5 and leave it - since i use it all the time -

so i think your good given your warm room -


----------



## emsj86

Loving the mcp50x this Pump kicks some serious butt and it's not even loud


----------



## emsj86

Would it be better to have front 200mm intake bottom 240 rad both intake than. 360 rad as exhaust. Or 360 mm rad I take and 240mm rad exhaust at bottom. I just switched it to bottom 240 rad and front 200mm rad as Intakr. My set up before was all exhaust expect 200mm front intake mainly for the sp120 rings to show for looks


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Loving the mcp50x this Pump kicks some serious butt and it's not even loud


it is loud at full speed, ain't no doubt about that one. You must have it setup on a Pwm splitter or something. Cause once it hours over 2000rpms I can hear it over my case fans.


----------



## emsj86

I have it on pwm but it's no louder than my fans at 1400 rpms or maybe it's my case muffling it.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> doubt. I have a 4790k to 4.5, BF4 playing for an hour or two, maximum temperature is 70 ° C, it is normal? in my country right now is in 41 ° C heat.
> 
> I use a H220x


Yes that sounds about right with an outside temp of 105 F! You must have condensation on your reservoir. Your ambient stacks almost directly with your load and idle temps. So if it were 20C ambient you'd be seeing around 50C load in BF4, and that seems about right. I don't play BF4 but the highest I see my CPU temps in games is right around 50C and usually it is lower than that.


----------



## mauinho

Hi guys
Will a H240X fit in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro comfortably?
Also how do I get one here in the UK?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Hi guys
> Will a H240X fit in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro comfortably?
> Also how do I get one here in the UK?


I have done it in the Luxe without using the added fan space up top, theoretically it should be the same. It cleared the 8-pin by a hair on ASUS and MSI 1150 boards when mounted all the way to the rear. Nudging it an inch to the front gives you easy access to everything.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have done it in the Luxe without using the added fan space up top, theoretically it should be the same. It cleared the 8-pin by a hair on ASUS and MSI 1150 boards when mounted all the way to the rear. Nudging it an inch to the front gives you easy access to everything.


yeah h220x has to be mounted off center to the rear but the 240 rad I have would have fit perfectly I don't see why it wouldn't work


----------



## emsj86

it will fit in the enthoo pro no problem


----------



## mauinho

Thanks guys







now if only amazon UK stocked up on them... or any UK e-retailer....

Swiftech who do I have to sleep with to get an H240X delivered to my house without spending more then my GTX970 costs?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes that sounds about right with an outside temp of 105 F! You must have condensation on your reservoir. Your ambient stacks almost directly with your load and idle temps. So if it were 20C ambient you'd be seeing around 50C load in BF4, and that seems about right. I don't play BF4 but the highest I see my CPU temps in games is right around 50C and usually it is lower than that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> 41c is a very high ambient temperature so that sounds right to me after a couple of hours gaming
> 
> but maybe some one else whos used to 41c temperatures will know better than me--it doesnt get that hot here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i get high temp in my apt. and if you reach only max 70C full load - i would say thats great considering your avg. room temp
> 
> i have a 3770k - at 4.7 1.275v - and it gets hotter then 70c at full load - i have delided my cpu - didnt put it back yet - waiting on my RMA of mobo - hoping to cool it down - if i can get 70C on full load - i be happy - since my apt. is pretty warm also -
> 
> i think my idle temps were in the 30's to 36 or 38C - i am using a antec 920 cooler - hopefully its not the cooler when i put it all back -
> i may just OC up to 4.5 and leave it - since i use it all the time -
> 
> so i think your good given your warm room -


thanks for the replys. It is very hot in here. then I stay happy by h220x


----------



## YaCantStopMe

I have a 220x on the way, its supposed to be to me thrusday. I do have one question tho, how do the fans on the radiators compare to the corsair sp series fans?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> I have a 220x on the way, its supposed to be to me thrusday. I do have one question tho, how do the fans on the radiators compare to the corsair sp series fans?


The 220x fans are quieter than the SP and move almost the same amount of air.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> The 220x fans are quieter than the SP and move almost the same amount of air.


This.

The only reason I bought sp's is because the fan blades are black


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now if only amazon UK stocked up on them... or any UK e-retailer.... Swiftech who do I have to sleep with to get an H240X delivered to my house without spending more then my GTX970 costs?


Heh, it seems there is only one place in EUrope which is taking orders for the H240-X but unfortunately they are on the continent and ask to pay dearly







(though mine is ordered







). I don't know about other forms of transactions, that might be gender dependent


----------



## mauinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> Heh, it seems there is only one place in EUrope which is taking orders for the H240-X but unfortunately they are on the continent and ask to pay dearly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (though mine is ordered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I don't know about other forms of transactions, that might be gender dependent


Wow good find thanks Im on my way to pulling the trigger on one







140 quid Swiftech hope your reading







not fair on us europeans hopefully this thing is the second coming








Does Swiftech warranty apply here in Europe?


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Wow good find thanks Im on my way to pulling the trigger on one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 140 quid Swiftech hope your reading
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not fair on us europeans hopefully this thing is the second coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Swiftech warranty apply here in Europe?






. Sold officially in the EU means warranty applies. Pull the trigger if the price is not distracting since they told me the first delivery is limited.


----------



## mauinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sold officially in the EU means warranty applies. Pull the trigger if the price is not distracting since they told me the first delivery is limited.


HEHE bought it







they were quite friendly I even paid in Bitcoin haha avoiding my missus eagle eyes lol
Anyway thanks alot mate I paid a premium but hopefully I get a premium product


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Wow good find thanks Im on my way to pulling the trigger on one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 140 quid Swiftech hope your reading
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not fair on us europeans hopefully this thing is the second coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Swiftech warranty apply here in Europe?


Warranty RMA in the uk is covered by bacata in france,,at least it was for me once swiftech ok a RMA

Though be aware posting a h320 to france from the uk cost me £25 if you need an RMA

Im hoping to see the h220x and h240x on specialtech.co.uk shortly,,got a feeling they may be one of the first uk retailers


----------



## fleetfeather

Any updates regarding buying the H220-X or H240-X radiator/reservoir combo by itself?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Any updates regarding buying the H220-X or H240-X radiator/reservoir combo by itself?


No, at this time this isn't something that's being considered.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, at this time this isn't something that's being considered.


Fair enough. That _was_ something that was previously being considered though, right? Or am I just confused?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Fair enough. That _was_ something that was previously being considered though, right? Or am I just confused?


For the smaller H140X this is something that we're considering, but not for the larger kits. I don't think we ever considered this for the larger kits. Not that I can remember at least.


----------



## fruits

Hello gentlemen,

This might be a bit of a weird question but, I was wondering if it's possible to somehow add the h-220x' radiator and pump into the loop of the h-240x, if that makes any sense?
I've used a h-220x for a long time on a rig that was recently retired for a new one running a h-240x cooling an overclocked 5960x and the amount of heat this system has to deal with is borderline teetering into a range that makes me nervous...

If not, what's the best way to go about adding a radiator to my loop?


----------



## MaN227

I not 100% sure , fruits but I seem to recall reguardless if you have a 220 or 240 (x) that you can add any thing you like, another rad, another pump or even another 220/240 x . I do believe that is the "beauty" of one of these AIO setups from swiftech you can add more to the loop as time and or money allows.

seems to me the only limitation would be space in your case to mount them.

I have actually see diagrams that show you can run one of these 220/240x's in standard 1. on top of case 2 on front of case 3. on back of case. and it should run exactly the same. with the one no no being trying to mount it upside down( fans and rad on bottom and pump facing up, in bottom of case) I've not seen anyone use one in an orientation other that number 1, but the other two ways should be no problem.

my guess is the one way you Can't mount is simply do to potential of the impeller to burn up not having the water around it.

I'm sure the swiftech rep here will set you straight.

best of luck.


----------



## spacetoast31

after a bit of aida64 stress, little over an hour. Im very happy with my temps. Im running the h220x with an added 360 rad up front for my future proofing. I have 6 aerocool DS, in push pull on the front 360 and the stock swiftechs on the h220x itself. I idle at 16-17* c now. Soon ill be going water for my SLI setup. So im hoping my temps will stay reasonable.


----------



## NormanC

Hey guys

I am thinking of getting the H240X, but I am not sure about the default fan direction...
it seems that the fans are blowing in a push configuration, through the rad.... but the way the fans are mounted on the rad and the way the pump+rez is location, is it possible to place the H240X in a case, where the flow direction is OUT of the case, and not INTO the case?

Or can the fans be turned to they are in a pull configuration without sacrifizing too much peformance?

Maybe I misunderstood something, but it seems to strange to me that this unit is pushing "hot" air into the case....

Below are the installation suggestions from Swiftech, but all indicate that air is blown through the rad INTO the case.


How to mount this unit in a setup with front intake fans and rear/top outtake?


----------



## emsj86

You can change the fans to pull and have it mounted at the top but just pulling air from inside out. Now whether push it pull intake will give you the best performance


----------



## Gavush

I seem to recall reading that running as exhaust rather than inlet was a neglegable difference in performance - like 1c at the most? I need to pull mine and flip them around to help with dust control since all my other inlets are filtered and I currently have 4x 140mm and 2x120mm inlet and 1x120 exhaust.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fruits*
> 
> Hello gentlemen,
> 
> This might be a bit of a weird question but, I was wondering if it's possible to somehow add the h-220x' radiator and pump into the loop of the h-240x, if that makes any sense?
> I've used a h-220x for a long time on a rig that was recently retired for a new one running a h-240x cooling an overclocked 5960x and the amount of heat this system has to deal with is borderline teetering into a range that makes me nervous...
> 
> If not, what's the best way to go about adding a radiator to my loop?


You could do it, but it would make more sense to just add another rad to one of the coolers. It would likely be easier to just install a single rad depending on the size of your case and layout and the temps would be the same as adding another AIO. Getting two Swiftech H2x0X units to fit in your case could be difficult. Add a thick rad in an area that can have good airflow into or out of your case and you'll increase your cooling capacity under load.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> For the smaller H140X this is something that we're considering, but not for the larger kits. I don't think we ever considered this for the larger kits. Not that I can remember at least.


Ahh my mistake then. Thanks for the clarrification.

I've decided I'm going to pick up a H240-X for my mITX build. The pump/rad/res combo is a massive space saver, allowing me to throw a super thick rad in the front of my case where the pump/res combo would've sat.

The only issue concerns lack of stock on FrozenCPU. I'm not against picking up a unit from your own webstore, but the shipping to Aus is pretty harsh. IIRC, it costs nearly $65 USD to ship it?









edit: Also, does Swiftech and/or your OEM's have the ability to run group-buys for variations of your products? Example being a rad/res/pump combo with larger thickness (45mm instead of 30mm)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> You could do it, but it would make more sense to just add another rad to one of the coolers. It would likely be easier to just install a single rad depending on the size of your case and layout and the temps would be the same as adding another AIO. Getting two Swiftech H2x0X units to fit in your case could be difficult. Add a thick rad in an area that can have good airflow into or out of your case and you'll increase your cooling capacity under load.


Yes, this makes much more sense and the pump in one of these kits is able to handle such a configuration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Ahh my mistake then. Thanks for the clarrification.
> 
> I've decided I'm going to pick up a H240-X for my mITX build. The pump/rad/res combo is a massive space saver, allowing me to throw a super thick rad in the front of my case where the pump/res combo would've sat.
> 
> The only issue concerns lack of stock on FrozenCPU. I'm not against picking up a unit from your own webstore, but the shipping to Aus is pretty harsh. IIRC, it costs nearly $65 USD to ship it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Also, does Swiftech and/or your OEM's have the ability to run group-buys for variations of your products? Example being a rad/res/pump combo with larger thickness (45mm instead of 30mm)


No, we don't do group-buys for variations of any kind. We don't do any modifying of our products here, and our OEM's don't either. PM me though because I might have a solution for you regarding this.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, we don't do group-buys for variations of any kind. We don't do any modifying of our products here, and our OEM's don't either. PM me though because I might have a solution for you regarding this.


Gotcha. I figured as much, but thought it was worth a shot







Definitely intrigued, PM incoming


----------



## fruits

Thanks for all your input fellas!
The reason I considered this is because I have the h-220x on hand with no other computer to put it in atm.
I'll go do some more reading on the matter.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fruits*
> 
> Thanks for all your input fellas!
> The reason I considered this is because I have the h-220x on hand with no other computer to put it in atm.
> I'll go do some more reading on the matter.


one good thing if you did find a way for it to fit would be redundancy of having two pumps.... would still be a bear to bleed though unless you mounted one backwards and vertical for fill port up


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fruits*
> 
> Thanks for all your input fellas!
> The reason I considered this is because I have the h-220x on hand with no other computer to put it in atm.
> I'll go do some more reading on the matter.


I figured that is why you were considering it. Honestly a single 240mm rad and some fittings isn't gonna cost that much. You could always sell the other to a friend, on eBay or sell/trade it to another member (though you don't quite have the rep to sell). As Bryan pointed out the pump is plenty strong to push extra components and accommodate small-med expansion. I suggested it more for ease of installation and config options.

I run two pumps and an extra res and love it, but my situation is different than yours. You could pull it off, but it likely won't be easy or pretty...


----------



## shadow85

Does anyone know how the H240-X compares to say a Corsair Hydro H110?

The only place I can get a H240-X to australia is from frozencpu for $149.99, but they will charge a minimum $50 postage to Australia.

Where as I can get a Corsair Hydro H110 from amazon for $111.19 and postage will be much cheaper. Or I can get a H110 locally for $150.

Is the extra $50-60 to get the H240-X here worth it? Or will it be similar performance to a H110.

Btw I am not looking at expanding to full water setups.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Would my h220 work on rampage v x99


----------



## VSG

Yes


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Does anyone know how the H240-X compares to say a Corsair Hydro H110?
> 
> The only place I can get a H240-X to australia is from frozencpu for $149.99, but they will charge a minimum $50 postage to Australia.
> 
> Where as I can get a Corsair Hydro H110 from amazon for $111.19 and postage will be much cheaper. Or I can get a H110 locally for $150.
> 
> Is the extra $50-60 to get the H240-X here worth it? Or will it be similar performance to a H110.
> 
> Btw I am not looking at expanding to full water setups.


It's a bit like comparing a new Bentley to a 1974 Ford Pinto.....

The H240-X is a pre-assembled collection of actual top quality open loop components. Flagship CPU block, copper brass radiator built off the Swiftech QP Series, a pump capable of ~1.0 gpm and quiet fans with good static pressure.

The H110 uses a CPU block with far lower performance, an _aluminum_ high fpi (to try and make up for being aluminum rather than copper.....but it doesn't) rad, a pump that moves less than 0.25 gpm and fans that are quiet.....and leave the H110 lagging behind the NZXT X60/61 (which is the same unit with better fans).

I haven't published our H240-X review yet, but here are the test results from another review that shows the H2*2*0-X beating up on the (better performing than the H110) X61:


----------



## f1schu

Well I was waiting for a H240x but I think pc's will be extinct by the time we get any here in the UK or Europe even xD
Have had mine on preorder from Highflow.nl for 2-3 weeks and swiftech are saying it may be another 2-3 weeks before they are in stock 0.0
Have just about given up on getting one of these and am going to buy something else that I can actually get sometime this century, sorry Swiftech but your distribution skills for a product that literally sells itself is shocking :/


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1schu*
> 
> Well I was waiting for a H240x but I think pc's will be extinct by the time we get any here in the UK or Europe even xD
> Have had mine on preorder from Highflow.nl for 2-3 weeks and swiftech are saying it may be another 2-3 weeks before they are in stock 0.0
> Have just about given up on getting one of these and am going to buy something else that I can actually get sometime this century, sorry Swiftech but your distribution skills for a product that literally sells itself is shocking :/


This isn't an issue on our end. The problem is that our distributor in Europe recently changed ownership and this has caused us some unforeseen issues. These things happen, but we're working as quickly as possible to resolve it. However, it might still take a couple of weeks before it is resolved though. This is also why we made the decision to start selling our products directly to overseas customers. I understand that the shipping costs can be a bit prohibitive, but it's still an option. I hope this explains the situation.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This isn't an issue on our end. The problem is that our distributor in Europe recently changed ownership and this has caused us some unforeseen issues. These things happen, but we're working as quickly as possible to resolve it. However, it might still take a couple of weeks before it is resolved though. This is also why we made the decision to start selling our products directly to overseas customers. I understand that the shipping costs can be a bit prohibitive, but it's still an option. I hope this explains the situation.


When have you started selling to overseas customers? Do you sell to Australia? Because I am in the same boat as F1schu, our sellers here will probably get this product when pc's are extinct, they don't have any idea when they will get this product or even if they ever will.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> When have you started selling to overseas customers? Do you sell to Australia? Because I am in the same boat as F1schu, our sellers here will probably get this product when pc's are extinct, they don't have any idea when they will get this product or even if they ever will.


Yes, we can ship to Australia.


----------



## Vlada011

I wait patience to show up in Europe.
I hope we will not wait long because I have buyers for mine H100.


----------



## broncogr

I would have no issue buying from the swiftech site but, for my country at least, I know it will be held in customs and I will end up paying double the price of the kit..
So I also have to wait until someone stocks it in Europe unfortunately..


----------



## blackend

HI

IAM PLANNING TO BUY I7 5960K OC TO 4.6 GHZ SO IAM BETWEEN

COOLER NASTER NEPTON 280L AND SWIFTEC H240-X

WHICH ONE TO GO FOR?


----------



## sdmf74

Bryan did you ever release any new pump photos or info? I know you said something about Monday, I have been trying to keep an eye on the thread but been kinda busy.
Remember we would also love to have a dual pump & top setup for the 50x in the near future if you can put in a good word for us, Thanx!


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> I would have no issue buying from the swiftech site but, for my country at least, I know it will be held in customs and I will end up paying double the price of the kit..
> So I also have to wait until someone stocks it in Europe unfortunately..


Oh crap now you got me worried, I was just about to make an order for this tonight but after reading that comment I'm worried this might happen to me also for my country; Australia.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

My h220x came last night and i got to install it today. While the build quality is nice it wasnt an easy installation. First off swiftech should stop attachingthe back plate to the cooler out of the box. My screws would not budge. I dont think i have ever had to unscrew something so tight in my life. It got to the point where i was starting to strip the screws and needed a pair of vice grips to grab the sides. It was pretty redicolous. It took me longer to get the back plate off then to assemble and mount the whole thing. My second issue was i turned the fans around for pull and realized my corner screw next to the res was missing. I found it in the box and but when i went to put it back in it just spins around. The screw in fine so im guessing there is something wrong with the hole. Hole looks the same size so maybe the inside is stripped. idk, either way its a little dissapointing but atleast i got the other 7 screws to hold. Lastly the rubber changeable cover on mine is covered in little nicks.

Havent turned it on yet but hopefully there arent any more issues. Im building a new pc and will fire everything up on saturday.


----------



## smithydan

Will the h240x be enough to cool a CPU overlocked with approx 1.3v and the new gtx 970 or 980?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Will the h240x be enough to cool a CPU overlocked with approx 1.3v and the new gtx 970 or 980?


Not overclocked maybe. Overclocked your my gonna get good temps. Add another rad and you will be perfect to do both on overclocks


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not overclocked maybe. Overclocked your my gonna get good temps. Add another rad and you will be perfect to do both on overclocks


Okay, was trying to avoid installing another rad lol.

So a 360 would suffice, like let's say a xspc raystorm 750 ax/ex360? <- Just throwing something out there


----------



## Zer0CoolX

How much of an upgrade if any would it be to go from an H80i to a H240x? Additionally, how much quiter would the H240X be?

Build is in my sig, 4770k @ 4.4Ghz, i would only be water cooling CPU for now. Thanks


----------



## emsj86

Yeh that should be fine. I ran my glacer 240l with oc cpu and oc with gpu with just adding another 240rad and it did very well. I ran that for a month and since upgrades to a full custom loop. I had the itch and put in a lot of ot lately so I went for it. 360 should be fine I've seen a video on yt with ocd3d I believe using a 360 for both cpu and gpu. Could do that and sell your radiator that came with it to make up cost if needed


----------



## fruits

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> How much of an upgrade if any would it be to go from an H80i to a H240x? Additionally, how much quiter would the H240X be?
> 
> Build is in my sig, 4770k @ 4.4Ghz, i would only be water cooling CPU for now. Thanks


I've actually gone precisely from a H80i to a H240x and I can tell you the cooling performance difference was massive.

The noise is also way better; I can run the swiftech helix fans at 100% 24/7 and they wouldn't bother me. The H80i's fans are solid but will drive me mental if they had to run full throttle for any longer than when they spin up during boot up. For some reasons that I would encourage swiftech to patent, their fans running at 1800rpm sound like other fans running at 1300rpm to me.


----------



## Akima18

HI everyone,

My H220-X makes a pretty loud "grindy / rattle" type of noise that can be heard at nearly all levels when the pump is running over 1700 RPM, and even at lower RPM's I still hear the grinding kind of sound but it is a bit lower. Is this normal at all, or does anyone know what the problem might be and any possible solutions? I have uploaded a clip below of what it sounds like at around 2500 RPM, if that helps at all.

It is very very noticeable above my Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Case fan's, and if possible I would love to solve this problem, it is making my PC much louder than I would like.

===H220-X Rattle====

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!

(I have tried shaking it around a bit, but that did not seem to help at all)

Also note that both the rattle sound and the other background "whirring"type of sound are both from the H220-X, i turned all of my AP-15's (I even have AP-15's on the radiator) to very low RPM's so the entirety of the noise there is from the H220-X. It actually sounds a little lower in the video then it does when I'm close to it.

Edit : And here is what it sounds at around 2000 RPM, it also makes another *strange noise* :

====Strange Noise===

Please note also here the "whirring" sound is NOT from the fans, I have them running at very low RPM's via a fan controller.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Oh crap now you got me worried, I was just about to make an order for this tonight but after reading that comment I'm worried this might happen to me also for my country; Australia.


For Australia, you have a $1000 duty free "allowance" per year regarding imported goods, and even if you cross that, you only pay for 10% GST and a fixed customs fee (though I'm not sure on the latter).\

That's also how I get cheap GPUs


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> For Australia, you have a $1000 duty free "allowance" per year regarding imported goods, and even if you cross that, you only pay for 10% GST and a fixed customs fee (though I'm not sure on the latter).\
> 
> That's also how I get cheap GPUs


Yep I just read through some pages regarding customs and importing items over the internet to Australia.

I was going to buy a $2000 LG monitor from from korea through ebay, but pulled out since I found out I will be paying 5% duty + 10% gst + processing fees.

Ontop of that it will take time for the item to get to customs, them sending me a letter, them recieving the import forms etc, then getting the monitor cleared.

By then that monitor should be available here locally for $2499, they said 11 novemeber from the retailers here. So I might aswell wait till then.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Yep I just read through some pages regarding customs and importing items over the internet to Australia.
> 
> I was going to buy a $2000 LG monitor from from korea through ebay, but pulled out since I found out I will be paying 5% duty + 10% gst + processing fees.
> 
> Ontop of that it will take time for the item to get to customs, them sending me a letter, them recieving the import forms etc, then getting the monitor cleared.
> 
> By then that monitor should be available here locally for $2499, they said 11 novemeber from the retailers here. So I might aswell wait till then.


And don't forget to factor in the pain of warranties and RMA if needed.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Will the h240x be enough to cool a CPU overlocked with approx 1.3v and the new gtx 970 or 980?


You could try it, but your not gonna get great load temps on either component. The 980 does run pretty cool when water cooled, but you should add at least another 120mm rad to the loop. I'd just get a 240mm to be safe, plus you could run SLI 980s in the future too. I run the H220X with an Alphcoo XT45l 240mm rad to cool a similar system; i7 4790K and GTX 980, and temps are excellent. I used to run GTX 770s in the same loop and temps were still very good. If you don't ever plan to run SLI (for 4K or 1440p) in the future then another 120mm rad would likely be sufficient. I don't know what case you are working with, but extra cooling headroom is always a plus, especially in the warmer months. Maybe go with a 240mm if it will fit easily...


----------



## VSG

A H220-X is on the way to me I believe. While there have been plenty of reviews already, is there anything that people would like to see that hasn't been covered yet? I will separately cover the pump and the CPU block also for flow rates, restriction and so forth.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

So i installed my 220x and fired up my new build. Im getting great temps so far. Is there any way to keep the light on the block permanently on?


----------



## fruits

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> So i installed my 220x and fired up my new build. Im getting great temps so far. Is there any way to keep the light on the block permanently on?


Plugging the 3 pin led power connector from the block to an adaptor on molex or sata power that isn't motherboard controlled should do the trick.


----------



## emsj86

Mcp50x on 50 percent. Anyone explain it help with the noise it's making. It's horrible. 



 note video quality is bad off my phone I just wanted to capture the noise


----------



## mwsantos88256

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Mcp50x on 50 percent. Anyone explain it help with the noise it's making. It's horrible.
> 
> 
> 
> note video quality is bad off my phone I just wanted to capture the noise


Mine did something similar when I first got it. I think it was a bubble that needed to come loose. After some tipping of the case and ramping the pump up and down It came loose because the noise went away. I leave mine sitting around 40%


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akima18*
> 
> HI everyone,
> 
> My H220-X makes a pretty loud "grindy / rattle" type of noise that can be heard at nearly all levels when the pump is running over 1700 RPM, and even at lower RPM's I still hear the grinding kind of sound but it is a bit lower. Is this normal at all, or does anyone know what the problem might be and any possible solutions? I have uploaded a clip below of what it sounds like at around 2500 RPM, if that helps at all.
> 
> It is very very noticeable above my Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Case fan's, and if possible I would love to solve this problem, it is making my PC much louder than I would like.
> 
> ===H220-X Rattle====
> 
> Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!
> 
> (I have tried shaking it around a bit, but that did not seem to help at all)
> 
> Also note that both the rattle sound and the other background "whirring"type of sound are both from the H220-X, i turned all of my AP-15's (I even have AP-15's on the radiator) to very low RPM's so the entirety of the noise there is from the H220-X. It actually sounds a little lower in the video then it does when I'm close to it.
> 
> Edit : And here is what it sounds at around 2000 RPM, it also makes another *strange noise* :
> 
> ====Strange Noise===
> 
> Please note also here the "whirring" sound is NOT from the fans, I have them running at very low RPM's via a fan controller.


PM me about this so that I can help you resolve this issue.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Thanks i ended up running this fan expert program on my asus motherboard to setup a fan curve and it must have realized its not a fan, because its solid now. If it decides to pulse again i will hook it to a molex.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Thanks i ended up running this fan expert program on my asus motherboard to setup a fan curve and it must have realized its not a fan, because its solid now. If it decides to pulse again i will hook it to a molex.


Shouldn't you be using a SATA connector for power and then motherboard pins just for control and monitoring anyways?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Shouldn't you be using a SATA connector for power and then motherboard pins just for control and monitoring anyways?


Not for the LED on the Apogee XL. The only cable on it is for a 3-pin fan header. If the header is set on a curve then the LED will pulsate. You should just be able to set that header to run at 100% the whole time though to keep it solid.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not for the LED on the Apogee XL. The only cable on it is for a 3-pin fan header. If the header is set on a curve then the LED will pulsate. You should just be able to set that header to run at 100% the whole time though to keep it solid.


My bad.

I'd know better if mine would show up already.... ¬_¬


----------



## mcnumpty23

Some one asked what the effect of having 2 pumps and one failed would be

I am still waiting for my h320 replacement so decided to add a mcp355 pump and small reservoir to find out

So i have a h320 block/pump with a failed pump and a mcp355 pump and small xspc res in the loop

Flow and temperatures seem to be unaffected by the failed pump

And a seperate reservoir made a HUGE difference to bleeding the h320

Five minutes of popping noises,then ten minutes of occassional pops and whooshes then ten minutes of very occasional whooshes and then total silence

No tipping the case or shaking or anything

So in my experience one pump failing made little or no difference and i would recomend adding a reservoir to the h220 or h320 as it made bleeding it so easy


----------



## Jo0

If I were to add another 240mm rad and two GPU water blocks would the H220 pump handle the expansion?

I'm on the fence with buying the Apooge Drive II, two 240 rads, two gtx 285 water blocks, tubing, and fittings.

Thinking it would be cheaper to get the H220 and expand on it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> If I were to add another 240mm rad and two GPU water blocks would the H220 pump handle the expansion?
> 
> I'm on the fence with buying the Apooge Drive II, two 240 rads, two gtx 285 water blocks, tubing, and fittings.
> 
> Thinking it would be cheaper to get the H220 and expand on it.


The pump in the H220 can probably handle it, but you'll be at the extreme end of its ability. One of the reasons for this is due to the restriction of those older GPU blocks. GPU water cooling has come a long way since the 285 days and are far less restrictive than they used to be. That's pretty much across all manufacturers. You might be better off going with the Drive II simply for its ability to push more flow.


----------



## Ezequiel18

Hello BramSL1,

First of all thank you very much for your interest in us, the customers.

I would like to ask you since i´m not able to purchase the H220 cause its not available for the US, What would really happen if i get a Glacer 240L instead. Forgive me if this has been asked before, i tried to look for that particular question with the answer but i couldn´t find it right away.

Since my best wishes were to get the H220 but it is not possible due to the circumstances, If i get the GLACER 240L am i really getting the same h220 product? Can you really ensure me that? Which ones are the parts that get modified by coolermaster? , Don´t get me wrong. I love coolermaster but i believe that the cooling supremacy belong to you Swiftech not CM. I myself Owned more than 3 different CM powersupply's and more than 3 different models of High End Tower Cases included my last one being the HAF-X so i´m not intending to offend coolermaster. I'll be also very greatful with them if i really know that they are letting me get this wonderful product called H220 by just rebranding it to avoid ASETEK noobdumbass actitude .

Thank you very much for your time. and have a great day.

i´ll be looking forward to your answer.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezequiel18*
> 
> Hello BramSL1,
> 
> First of all thank you very much for your interest in us, the customers.
> 
> I would like to ask you since i´m not able to purchase the H220 cause its not available for the US, What would really happen if i get a Glacer 240L instead. Forgive me if this has been asked before, i tried to look for that particular question with the answer but i couldn´t find it right away.
> 
> Since my best wishes were to get the H220 but it is not possible due to the circumstances, If i get the GLACER 240L am i really getting the same h220 product? Can you really ensure me that? Which ones are the parts that get modified by coolermaster? , Don´t get me wrong. I love coolermaster but i believe that the cooling supremacy belong to you Swiftech not CM. I myself Owned more than 3 different CM powersupply's and more than 3 different models of High End Tower Cases included my last one being the HAF-X so i´m not intending to offend coolermaster. I'll be also very greatful with them if i really know that they are letting me get this wonderful product called H220 by just rebranding it to avoid ASETEK noobdumbass actitude .
> 
> Thank you very much for your time. and have a great day.
> 
> i´ll be looking forward to your answer.


The differences between the H220 and 240L are as follows:

The fans are there's and not ours. They therefore do push a little more air, but can also be a little noisier.
The pump is ours, but set to Cooler Master's specifications to improve flow and head pressure. Instead of the pump running at 3000 RPM for the H220 the 240L runs at 3500.

That about sums up the differences other than some minor cosmetic ones and I hope this answers your question.

An a side note, have you looked at our H220X kit?


----------



## Ezequiel18

Thank you very much for your quickly answer BramSLI1, you are great.

Just to make sure. 8PWM adapter won´t come with the Glacer 240L since the changes to the pump cables right?

You cleared my doubts. Thank you very very much!

PD : i believe that if i flush all the parts clean before setting this up and try to properly purge the pump out of any kind of Air it may have i will have this kit for very long time. it that right?. I've seen some videos like that explaning how good quality the swiftech pump is and how long it will last if it is serviced properly. Correct me if i'm wrong.

i would like to know from a swiftech voice if these kind of procedures are good to take into account.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezequiel18*
> 
> Thank you very much for your quickly answer BramSLI1, you are great.
> 
> Just to make sure. 8PWM adapter won´t come with the Glacer 240L since the changes to the pump cables right?
> 
> You cleared my doubts. Thank you very very much!
> 
> PD : i believe that if i flush all the parts clean before setting this up and try to properly purge the pump out of any kind of Air it may have i will have this kit for very long time. it that right?. I've seen some videos like that explaning how good quality the swiftech pump is and how long it will last if it is serviced properly. Correct me if i'm wrong.
> 
> i would like to know from a swiftech voice if these kind of procedures are good to take into account.


That's correct. These don't come with our 8-way splitter either because the pump has two separate connectors on it for power and PWM control. Also, you are correct that if you properly maintain and service your kit it can last you for a very long time. I hope this answers your question and can you tell me why you're interested in the 240L over our new H220X kit?


----------



## Ezequiel18

Its not that i have the choice... I wish i could get a direct Swiftech product... but no one is making it real for me. Saddly. That´s the reason why BramSLI1.
Don´t get me wrong i´m following Swiftech products very close by but wishing them is not enough. Because i can´t get them in my country i have just to be ok with the only ones that are available or able to Import. Very likely the situation to people on the US where the couldn´t get the H220 before the H220X came out. I know that H220X should be available or its available right now for the US but not in Newegg or Amazon , since those are the only sites i can purchase from.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezequiel18*
> 
> Its not that i have the choice... I wish i could get a direct Swiftech product... but no one is making it real for me. Saddly. That´s the reason why BramSLI1.
> Don´t get me wrong i´m following Swiftech products very close by but wishing them is not enough. Because i can´t get them in my country i have just to be ok with the only ones that are available or able to Import. Very likely the situation to people on the US where the couldn´t get the H220 before the H220X came out. I know that H220X should be available or its available right now for the US but not in Newegg or Amazon , since those are the only sites i can purchase from.


If you can hold off until our next shipment comes in these will be available on Amazon. We've recently worked out a deal with them to carry these and our H240X kits, but they're not available currently due to being out of stock. They should arrive in a week or so.


----------



## Ezequiel18

That would be Great BramSLI1, as always im stalking at Amazon and Newegg places, waiting for Swiftech stuff to come back. Thanks for the good news.


----------



## Vlada011

Swiftech H220X pump is enough for CPU and GPU and maybe one 120mm radiator more?
I will replace fittings and tubes 10/13mm.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Swiftech H220X pump is enough for CPU and GPU and maybe one 120mm radiator more?
> I will replace fittings and tubes 10/13mm.


I will soon have exact numbers for you, but in the meantime- unless they are terribly restrictive components it should be fine. The MCP30 goes to a max of 3000 rpm so you can check out the MCP50x at 3000 rpm in my review and see how this would be (they are the same pump otherwise): http://www.overclock.net/t/1516369/my-review-of-the-swiftech-mcp50x-pump/0_50


----------



## Mrreks

Hi guys =D
I have a glacier 240L i want to expand it to have my 670 in a loop. im thinking of getting a xspc rx 120 v3 radiator and a xspc rx 240 v3 radiator. now i dont know too much about watercooling anything more then a cpu. so my question is can the pump on the glacier 240L do those 2 rads plus a gpu block and should i get a external reservoir for it or treat it like a bigger all in one cooler?


----------



## Rawng

Has anyone been able to get this to work in a Corsair 600T case?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Has anyone been able to get this to work in a Corsair 600T case?


What exactly, need to be more specific?


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> What exactly, need to be more specific?


Sorry about that. In regards to the H240-X and whether it can fit inside the case without issues.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> H240-X and whether it can fit inside the case without issues.


From what wecells can see, there is only 2 x 120mm fan mounting holes on the top panel, so H220x might fit, but H240X won't without modification.


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Awesome, I'll have to keep a look out for the 220x on eBay. Right now I have an h80i but I'm finding Corsair products don't stand the test of time. Any ideas how much better the 220x is compared to the h80i?
> 
> From what wecells can see, there is only 2 x 120mm fan mounting holes on the top panel, so H220x might fit, but H240X won't without modification.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Anyone in here have a 4790k? If so what kind of temps are you seeing?


----------



## Vlada011

I think Swiftech H220 and H220/H240X deserve own topic, not with CM or CORSAIR because H220X it's specific.
We didn't saw famous and proven CPU block, water-cooling pump and radiator connected together in AIO expandable system, compatible with compression fittings and different size of tubes. But now is late for that.
I have space and for H240X but I don't expect some huge difference and 120mm fans are better because H220X is more interesting for me.


----------



## Gavush

I'm going to be adding two reference 7970 cards with ek full blocks in parallel to my h240x loop (fx-8350) and I'm trying to figure out how much extra radiator I need. I'd love to get away with just a 120 on the exhaust but I don't want to come up short. I can fit a 240 0r 280mm on the bottom or a shorter 120x2 in the front. I am really thinking of grabbing one of those old h220 radiator/reservoir units that are on sale... I think if I put it on the bottom with the fill port facing up it'll be handy for bleeding out air. It's too long to put up front. Suggestions?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> From what wecells can see, there is only 2 x 120mm fan mounting holes on the top panel, so H220x might fit, but H240X won't without modification.


this is off topic but every time you post i think of the hanar from mass effect


----------



## 66racer

Getting my h220 RMA is turning into a nightmare. September 14th I started email communication with Bryan and at first they were out of stock but now they have replacement units appperently and its been several emails later and still no return label in my inbox (or spam). Bryan is great at communication but that's not helping me get my loop together. I was patient at first but this is getting ridiculous.

October 6th after not hearing from him with a update on inventory I emailed him and he tells me they are in stock, Oct 9th I give him the dimensions he requested for the box I will ship back and ever since then its been back and forth about how I have not received a shipping label.

So much for customer service.


----------



## Vlada011

That's really problem than.
Than customer service is huge minus and everything else is on Swiftech side compare to all other units similar type.
I don't count 250-300e kits with worse pump and cheapest block for CPU because you need to count and GPU and for 500 I will build own custom with D5 + EK Supremacy and full cover EK GPU.
But this H220X with GPU block from EK and compression fittings drop custom loop price on more than half price. Off course not for someone who need 3 cards and CPU and mobo but for someone who need only one graphic card and CPU he save 350-300$ on cooling and still have EK full cover and Swiftech Apogee.
Only someone who test should really to compare some cards as R9-290X/GTX780Ti + Intel i7 on H220X I think good and fast fans could cool down both. That's my thinking. We don't talk about 45C under full load but
55-65C in silence. is completely acceptable. It's not only liquid in radiator and tubes and need pretty much heat to warm that liquid if fans works constant on 1500-1800RPM.
Nice tests would be Unigine Heaven 45min example on Firestrike loops because I doubt someone will use Furmark and Prime95 in same time real life.
When I say silence that's for me Gentle Typhoon AP-15 on full speed and little more.
Example some Gentle Typhoon 45 on about 2000RPM for me is acceptable noise 24/7 because AP-15 have space for more speed for my opinion.


----------



## Chipicao

If I want to change the tubing on a H220-X with something like this, do I need clamps or something, or do I just switch them?

Nvm. Stupid question, H220-X already has clamps...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> If I want to change the tubing on a H220-X with something like this, do I need clamps or something, or do I just switch them?
> 
> Nvm. Stupid question, H220-X already has clamps...


one good thing about the clamps they use is that there is no risk of overtightening unless you strip one out


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Anyone in here have a 4790k? If so what kind of temps are you seeing?


I got my H240-X on my 4790K. Now temps vary depending on a lot. At stock: at idle it stays around a cool 25 degrees (my apartment is currently 65 degrees, I like a cool atmosphere). in WoW, it hovers around 33 degrees. In Wildstar, it was about 36 degrees (it's pretty well optimized with multiple threads). In Prime95, at full load it goes into the fifties staying mostly around 55. At 4.8Ghz and 1.325 volts, things got a lot hotter. Idle was about the same, a little hotter, 29 degrees. In game was low 50s. Prime95 spiked at 75 degrees after 30 minutes, (turned it off after that. I know it's "safe" but I simply don't like things running that hot). IMO, I wouldn't go past 1.3V at all. If you're doing any real work loads, it will get hot. But just simply gaming and fooling around doesn't push it very hard. I love the 280mm radiator and fans. I leave it at 30% speed up to 30 degrees, it's silent. I mean I don't hear a peep (I got a Noctua exhaust 120mm fan and two Noctua intakes in the front of my C70, so I mean silent). I might change out the current fans for the black Noctuas, but it's so quiet and cool already, I don't see a point. Just superb.


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> Anyone in here have a 4790k? If so what kind of temps are you seeing?


I literally just installed my H240X on my 4790K (4.4GHz on all cores, for now). I ran OCCT for five minutes and my temps were very good compared to my H100i. I tested my bro's H110 and temps seems about 4C - 5C better on average. I installed that about a week ago to see how it would compare. I haven't tested any games yet, but I will soon.

I used TX-4, and considering I just installed it, temps may drop a bit more. TX-4 has no cure time, but with TX-4 temps seem to drop a bit after a few hours to a few days.

At idle, the cores are in the 20's all of the time, with my hottest core sometimes jumping to 30C or so. With the H110 temps were usually closer to 30C.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> If I want to change the tubing on a H220-X with something like this, do I need clamps or something, or do I just switch them?
> 
> Nvm. Stupid question, H220-X already has clamps...


You can use compression fittings or barbed fittings. On Swiftech site you have one adapter and change that on pump port and that adapter is compatible with G 1/4.
Radiator is compatible default with G 1/4, Apogee XL off course. And you can choose size, brand, color of compression fittings or barbed fittings and size or color of tubes or even liquid in some color.

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx

You have and explanation guide how to replace that.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrreks*
> 
> Hi guys =D
> I have a glacier 240L i want to expand it to have my 670 in a loop. im thinking of getting a xspc rx 120 v3 radiator and a xspc rx 240 v3 radiator. now i dont know too much about watercooling anything more then a cpu. so my question is can the pump on the glacier 240L do those 2 rads plus a gpu block and should i get a external reservoir for it or treat it like a bigger all in one cooler?


I had the glacer 240 l with fx 8350 oc to 5ghz two 240m rads gtx 780 oc and it worked just as well as my custom loop now. Oh I also had a xspc res added as well


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Getting my h220 RMA is turning into a nightmare. September 14th I started email communication with Bryan and at first they were out of stock but now they have replacement units appperently and its been several emails later and still no return label in my inbox (or spam). Bryan is great at communication but that's not helping me get my loop together. I was patient at first but this is getting ridiculous.
> 
> October 6th after not hearing from him with a update on inventory I emailed him and he tells me they are in stock, Oct 9th I give him the dimensions he requested for the box I will ship back and ever since then its been back and forth about how I have not received a shipping label.
> 
> So much for customer service.


The issue is with UPS. We don't generate these labels directly. The information is sent to UPS and they send out the labels for us. We've had some issues with this as of late and UPS is working with us to try and rectify it. I'm sorry about this, and we're doing everything that we can to resolve it.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Hi Bryan,

Is it possible to get the LGA 2011 Screw kit with springs and retaining washers for the H220? I did not get the retaining washers in the package with the screws and springs.

Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Hi Bryan,
> 
> Is it possible to get the LGA 2011 Screw kit with springs and retaining washers for the H220? I did not get the retaining washers in the package with the screws and springs.
> 
> Thanks.


PM me about this and I should be able to assist you.


----------



## DoooX

Maybe it was mentioned before but I am interested is 240X provided with mounting kit for 2011-3 Haswell-E series of processors ? Is it the same like for the old 2011 ?


----------



## MojoW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Maybe it was mentioned before but I am interested is 240X provided with mounting kit for 2011-3 Haswell-E series of processors ? Is it the same like for the old 2011 ?


all LGA 2011 sockets use the same mounting kit.


----------



## BramSLI1

We have now released our new Komodo NV GTX9 series water block. You can purchase these here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX9.aspx from our website.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We have now released our new Komodo NV GTX9 series water block. You can purchase these here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX9.aspx from our website.


Is that with the backplate included? If so, and knowing the first gen LE blocks were $20 more, this is a definite block to check out. 2 comments:

1) That video is for the previous NV LE with it's benchmark numbers, so maybe request HTL to make a shortened overview only version for a general NV LE block?

2) This thread is quickly becoming a general Swiftech product thread. What about a rename or creation of a Swiftech Club thread separate from this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is that with the backplate included? If so, and knowing the first gen LE blocks were $20 more, this is a definite block to check out. 2 comments:
> 
> 1) That video is for the previous NV LE with it's benchmark numbers, so maybe request HTL to make a shortened overview only version for a general NV LE block?
> 
> 2) This thread is quickly becoming a general Swiftech product thread. What about a rename or creation of a Swiftech Club thread separate from this?


These don't come with their own back plate because the included back plate from Nvidia is sufficient.


----------



## VSG

Fair enough, and I personally like a less expensive block if I can re-use the stock backplate myself. Are you going to be making backplates for those wanting one/with a custom cooler that comes with no backplate?


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MojoW*
> 
> all LGA 2011 sockets use the same mounting kit.


So that would basically mean I can use stock cooler from an older 2011 series CPU's until I get a proper cooling for my Haswell-E processor ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> So that would basically mean I can use stock cooler from an older 2011 series CPU's until I get a proper cooling for my Haswell-E processor ?


Yes


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fair enough, and I personally like a less expensive block if I can re-use the stock backplate myself. Are you going to be making backplates for those wanting one/with a custom cooler that comes with no backplate?


No, because most of the cards that use a custom cooler also tend to have a custom PCB. Our water blocks are only designed for the reference PCB, so they won't work with one that has been modified by the manufacturer.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, because most of the cards that use a custom cooler also tend to have a custom PCB. Our water blocks are only designed for the reference PCB, so they won't work with one that has been modified by the manufacturer.


Except for the biggest Nvidia vendor, EVGA, who tends to outsell everyone else in NA and also the smaller ones- Palit, Gainward etc.


----------



## shadow85

Hey does the 240-x support 2011-3 socket?


----------



## VSG

Yup


----------



## shadow85

Sweet


----------



## Scorpion49

Well, I think this Glacer 240L is my last foray into these cooling units. I've used dozens of other brands of AIO and never had a problem, but my first H-220 from Swiftech lasted about 4 hours before the pump died completely and now this one is working around two weeks and making sounds like marbles banging together and my temps have spiked up 30-40*C at idle. This is kind of sad, I mean I have an H50 that I bought when it came out in 2008 and it still works 100% perfectly to this day.


----------



## Nightz2k

What's a good "clear" and clean coolant I can use for the H220 ?

I'd like to replace it instead of recycling the same liquid after I just cleaned it out recently. I filtered it a few times, so I am still using it, with very little distilled water, but I want something cleaner to replace it for obvious reasons. Any recommendations ?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> What's a good "clear" and clean coolant I can use for the H220 ?
> 
> I'd like to replace it instead of recycling the same liquid after I just cleaned it out recently. I filtered it a few times, so I am still using it, with very little distilled water, but I want something cleaner to replace it for obvious reasons. Any recommendations ?


Nothing beats plain Distilled water. Use silver coil or a small amount of biocide.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Well, I think this Glacer 240L is my last foray into these cooling units. I've used dozens of other brands of AIO and never had a problem, but my first H-220 from Swiftech lasted about 4 hours before the pump died completely and now this one is working around two weeks and making sounds like marbles banging together and my temps have spiked up 30-40*C at idle. This is kind of sad, I mean I have an H50 that I bought when it came out in 2008 and it still works 100% perfectly to this day.


sounds like air in the pump did you change tubing and expand?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> sounds like air in the pump did you change tubing and expand?


Nope, its fresh out of the box. It made some bad noises for the first few days (pump noise not air stuck in it) and then it got somewhat quiet, but recently the temps have been going up and the pump has been getting more and more noisy. You can feel the pump grinding if you put your finger on it. Oh well, I got my trusty Megahalems and it runs the same temps as this thing did when it was working.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Nope, its fresh out of the box. It made some bad noises for the first few days (pump noise not air stuck in it) and then it got somewhat quiet, but recently the temps have been going up and the pump has been getting more and more noisy. You can feel the pump grinding if you put your finger on it. Oh well, I got my trusty Megahalems and it runs the same temps as this thing did when it was working.


Well, as has been repeated many times over in this thread for sure, do contact bryan and he'll sort it out for you.
I had the same issue and it was resolved swiftly, with no hassle.
I expanded my loop, added a reservoir etc and recently it's making the same noises as when I had the rev 1.0 impeller in it. But waiting till the end of the year when I get the stuff to add my graphics card to the loop before dismantling. For now, I have the pump turned down to 0% pwm which translates to about 1200rpm and the sound goes away.
To do this you could use speedfan which takes a while to configure. If your board is newer like mine (Z97 Gigabyte Gaming 7) last I checked speedfan doesn't support it yet so I just used the onboard stuff to turn down the pump speed. Just make sure it's plugged into the cpu fan header and it's set to PWM and not voltage control.


----------



## Ezequiel18

BramSLI1

I got a very important question, i've seen that the Swiftech impeler revision (the one with the three holes on it) was able to mostly solve all issues with Air bledding. I wanted to know if the Coolermaster 240L is comming with this Impeller revision. or if there is a way i could get it . since its very much likely to be the perfect solution for trapped airbubbles.

Thank you very much for your help

Regards


----------



## shadow85

I see some people having issues with their H220-X AIO coolers.

I just ordered a H240-X, am I going to get issues aswell?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I see some people having issues with their H220-X AIO coolers.
> 
> I just ordered a H240-X, am I going to get issues aswell?


Just keep in mind people don't generally post in forums to tell others how good their product is. You generally post when you have problems so if you constantly read the issues others are having it makes you a little paranoid.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I see some people having issues with their H220-X AIO coolers.
> 
> I just ordered a H240-X, am I going to get issues aswell?
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep in mind people don't generally post in forums to tell others how good their product is. You generally post when you have problems so if you constantly read the issues others are having it makes you a little paranoid.
Click to expand...

That was my exact thought before my H220 had issues (thrice) now Im just hoping if I get the H220X wont have issues.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> That was my exact thought before my H220 had issues (thrice) now Im just hoping if I get the H220X wont have issues.


I'll admit I had a couple issues with my H220. Plasticizer build up causing extremely high temps (taking the pump apart and cleaning it fixed that right up). A pump die on me about 7 months of owning it but swiftech's customer service and rma experience was the best I've ever dealt with so that alone makes me want their products. Been running strong since March, passed that 7 month mark! lol







But like I said, they're many people without issues. They just don't post about it. Actually on contrary, I'm pretty sure a while back this same thing was discussed in this thread. So a bunch of H220 owners posted about their good experience with the product. There's always gonna be issues with any product and when it's a repeatable issue that gets corrected in manufacturing.


----------



## shadow85

Well it doesn't matter, koz I have already ordered the H240-X and it's in delivery so I can't cancel it.

I was planning on grabbing a MSI X99 Gaming 7 M/B, 5930K and a enthoo pro case. The H240-X should be compatible with that setup rite?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Oh yes good choice I love my enthoo


----------



## shadow85

Which enthoo case do you have?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Which enthoo case do you have?


I have the pro but if you can swing it the Luxe is the way to go it is a bit larger and has a couple of really nice features such as room for fans under the top cover and customizable leds to name a couple but honestly you can't go wrong with any of the 3 models they are all superb and very nice cases for the money


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I'll admit I had a couple issues with my H220. Plasticizer build up causing extremely high temps (taking the pump apart and cleaning it fixed that right up). A pump die on me about 7 months of owning it but swiftech's customer service and rma experience was the best I've ever dealt with so that alone makes me want their products. Been running strong since March, passed that 7 month mark! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like I said, they're many people without issues. They just don't post about it. Actually on contrary, I'm pretty sure a while back this same thing was discussed in this thread. So a bunch of H220 owners posted about their good experience with the product. There's always gonna be issues with any product and when it's a repeatable issue that gets corrected in manufacturing.


Exactly - I have five first shipment pieces, 2 H220s, a 240L, a 220-X and a 240-X. I had a small issue with an air bubble in one H220 that opening the fill cap and knocking on the pump relived immediately. Other than that, all have been trouble free, and one of the H220 and the 240L have undergone numerous loop configuration changes and refills.

On the other hand.....I have had three CLCs bad out of the box in the same time frame. Two of them smoked the headers on the MBs they were connected to.

Point being, no product is perfect. But, it seems to me that H220/240L/H220-X/240-X users seem far more likely to be active in these forums in attempting to solve problems like an air bubble - especially since they get great support here. CLC users seem more likely to simply RMA the unit and never mention it.


----------



## MaN227

so when is the 240x going to be on Amazon? a matter of days according to the " in about a week" post.

update?


----------



## Ezequiel18

Currently Unavailable on Amazon... It seems everyone went for the H240-X... i would like to rage at them... but its not their fault to get a fantastic product if they have the possibility and the money to do so... Just hoping to get a restock soon... or i would get really angry . . .

It was available for very little time. . . it took a few hours for the very little stock to get anihillated on Amazon by a Consumer Rush Attack . . . fricking thing


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezequiel18*
> 
> It was available for very little time. . . it took a few hours for the very little stock to get anihillated on Amazon by a Consumer Rush Attack . . . fricking thing


I cannot find any swiftech 240-x listing on amazon


----------



## Ezequiel18

Here it is bro. http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H240-X-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00P2SJQR8/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2B80NFVD23TWH the H240-x

and here is the h220-x
http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H220-X-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00ORWL3WG/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2B80NFVD23TWH

Swiftech put the H220-x and H240-x on sale just about a week after BramSLI1 told us they would. So i was really impressed with the accurancy.
Your timing was great BramSLI1

The thing is ... there was so many people who awaited for it, that they've just Slaughtered the Stock.

PD: let me tell you that at first i didn´t like the idea to share this very little secret link with you all because then i would have more """"enemies""" to fight against in order to get my own H240-x unit ya know...














but then i thought. Lets share Whatever


----------



## gdubc




----------



## ciarlatano

H240-X review is up at HTL -

http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> H240-X review is up at HTL -
> 
> http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review


Nice HTL review.


----------



## emsj86

After expanding glacer. 240l got the itch now have the mcp50x what do you think


----------



## emsj86




----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*


Looks great! How are your temperatures?


----------



## Streetdragon

Just a little information. The Europe reseller should get the H220-x and H240-X in the next three weeks









When i get my H240-X i make some screenshots where you can see, how i fit it in a Antec 1100 Tower^^


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Looks great! How are your temperatures?


Temps out good. Fx 8350 at 4.8 with 1,47 v never gets past 52 celius and the gtx 780 overclocked to 1300 never hits past 40. That is with the sp120 fans and pump set for 30 percent low limit and 60 high limit (so it stays pretty quiet) I would like to get white leds to show it off better. And plan to get a thicker rad for the bottom and add a drain to help temps even more (probably get a monsta rad and put a drain off the side or bottom rad port). Eventually will upgrade to intel but the performance I get for what I do gaming and small editing is amazing. Dialing back the mcp50x to 30-60 percent in bios is key to keep a good noise to performance ratio. Thanks for all the help with answering my questions. Btw I need to get a camera these iPhone pics so t so it justice at all. Note that I had the glacer 240l with an added 240 swiftech rad on bottom and the temps were only 5-10 degrees higher but performed very very well. Anyone on the fence on expanding these swiftech products go do it. Works great and worth every penny


----------



## emsj86

. Non led pic to see it alittle better. Wrapped my optical drive and psu in cabron wrap. Wish and had a board like intel has with the sabertooth with the plastic cover as so I could paint a custom black with speckle blue. My sabertooth 990fx is a great board but very ugly.


----------



## Radmanhs

So uhhhhh, how many H220's have your guys gone through? In on my FOURTH one, and the pump just died on me... this is getting really old fast. I can't get a refund from swiftech because I bought it from NCIX, and i can't get a refund there because I've had it more than 60 days, what should i do?


----------



## smithydan

Get a refund if possible and get the h220x.


----------



## emsj86

Could be bad luck. But I'd look Into maybe having an issue somewhere hat is causing these pumps to die possibly


----------



## Dudewitbow

Ive only personally been through one rma.had it for about a year now total. Probably prolonged its maintainance since i never used stock tubing and essentially flushed before use. Current loop i primed without motherboard outside case, which helps out immensely for air bubbles without burning cpu


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Can anyone tell me where i can get a H240-x from? The only place ive found it for sale on is the Swiftech site. Would amazon or newegg end up carrying this?


----------



## Gavush

Why not buy it directly from swiftech? I'd like to think buying it from them directly gets them a little more money in their pocket for the product vs whatever cut the middleman gets.


----------



## Rahldrac

Looking forward to the European sellers getting this. Right now they don't even have the h220 or the h320 (kinda want this). To bad that you can not use push pull on the new X ones.


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Why not buy it directly from swiftech? I'd like to think buying it from them directly gets them a little more money in their pocket for the product vs whatever cut the middleman gets.


Because i have gift cards for Amazon and get free 2 day shipping on most things. So anyone know if i should expect amazon or newegg to carry the 240-x?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> Because i have gift cards for Amazon and get free 2 day shipping on most things. So anyone know if i should expect amazon or newegg to carry the 240-x?


You know, the amazon link was literally posted on the page before this. Though amazon is not shipping it but it still comes directly from swiftech themselves. only difference is you are going through amazon's money service


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> You know, the amazon link was literally posted on the page before this. Though amazon is not shipping it but it still comes directly from swiftech themselves. only difference is you are going through amazon's money service


Thats the 220, asked about the 240-x


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> Thats the 220, asked about the 240-x


Amazon will carry those as well as soon as we get more back in. We're expecting our next shipment in the next two to three weeks.


----------



## Sheldyx

Wow so the h240-x is coming in the next 2 to 3 week?  I pre-ordered one on NCIX for $180 (was the only place I could pre-ordered) I wonder if I should cancel it and buy it from Swiftech or amazon for cheaper but I'm afraid I wont be able to get one before they sell out...
I just got all my new build parts (gtx 980, i7 4790k, etc.) and the only part I'm missing is the cooler so I was waiting to get the h240-x and then start building it... maybe I should build it and run with the stock cooler and then add the h240-x later. I can wait 1 week for 2 to 3 is too much D:


----------



## Ezequiel18

The H240X is worth the waiting, in my opinion.. i just lost the oportunity to get one by a few secconds delay.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Bryan,

How come Swiftech stuff isn't sold at Newegg anymore?

(What I wouldn't do to be able to get 2 730 SSDs and an H240x in one fell swoop)


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Amazon will carry those as well as soon as we get more back in. We're expecting our next shipment in the next two to three weeks.


Thank you very much for the confirmation. I've heard alot of good about this cooler and am starting to get annoyed by the noise my H80i makes. I will very likely be picking this up using gifts cards i have now and others i will likely get during the holidays (amazon). By the way im very impressed to have heard back from someone who obviously represents the company, says alot about your companies commitment to its customers.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Bryan,
> 
> How come Swiftech stuff isn't sold at Newegg anymore?
> 
> (What I wouldn't do to be able to get 2 730 SSDs and an H240x in one fell swoop)


Have you looked at Newegg's water cooling products lately? They have pretty much moved away from the water cooling market completely. The only things that they pretty much carry anymore are the kits that have the pump that's manufactured by a certain company that I won't mention here. They don't carry any water cooling pumps, radiators, or hardly any fittings either.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you looked at Newegg's water cooling products lately? They have pretty much moved away from the water cooling market completely. The only things that they pretty much carry anymore are the kits that have the pump that's manufactured by a certain company that I won't mention here. They don't carry any water cooling pumps, radiators, or hardly any fittings either.


Oh I have. . One reason I love the H220x I have so much is because it's a legit loop that fits in my rig. But I want to put in a 2nd loop up front since I want to liquid cool my 780 Ti Classy with an H220x / H240x hooked up to an EK block. 2 separate loops inside one machine


----------



## Ezequiel18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you looked at Newegg's water cooling products lately? They have pretty much moved away from the water cooling market completely. The only things that they pretty much carry anymore are the kits that have the pump that's manufactured by a certain company that I won't mention here. They don't carry any water cooling pumps, radiators, or hardly any fittings either.


+1

They don`t even worth to be called Watercoolers, How could we may call them? Fancy Air Coolers? Water-Failure Air Cooling systems?. Don't get me wrong i'm no bull*****ter but when some people acts that cheap way, it's just disgusting. ¿ if I can't win't but i can't stand to loose. so lets cheat. ? NO, learn the leason, evolve. Thats why i love swiftech. Honorable.


----------



## Fantomau

If I was to get the H220-X and wanted to change the tubing/fittings/coolant. Do I just drain the coolant out and put what coolant I want in or do I have to do something else?


----------



## cephelix

Ok guys, been a while since i've posted in this thread.so many new names..i do have a question for anyone willing to help. I've expanded my loop(h220), adding a reservoir and with the new revision of the impeller. For a while, everything was running fine at full speed but recently, i've gotten the same noise like an air bubble is stuck behind the impeller, unable to escape. My question is, is that still possible? My reservoir is full and i'm running distilled water if that helps any

Regards
Ali


----------



## Dudewitbow

is your reservoir at the top most of the loop. A reservoir can still be full and still have air bubbles in a loop. tis why its easier to prime a pump outside of a case, as you can rotate all of the parts and blocks to get rid of the air pockets.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Ok guys, been a while since i've posted in this thread.so many new names..i do have a question for anyone willing to help. I've expanded my loop(h220), adding a reservoir and with the new revision of the impeller. For a while, everything was running fine at full speed but recently, i've gotten the same noise like an air bubble is stuck behind the impeller, unable to escape. My question is, is that still possible? My reservoir is full and i'm running distilled water if that helps any
> 
> Regards
> Ali


Anythings possible

Try tilting the case to the sides and back and front

Failing that,,drain and refill,,preferably outside the case as already mentioned


----------



## mcnumpty23

Well my h320 replacement pump finally arrived,,took a long,,long time,,but made it before xmas

But would like to say thanks to bryan for all his help









And that the problem was with swiftechs redistributor in france bacata,not bryans fault,he couldnt have been more helpful

Just bleeding the loop now and looking good and sounding quiet again


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Well my h320 replacement pump finally arrived,,took a long,,long time,,but made it before xmas
> 
> But would like to say thanks to bryan for all his help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that the problem was with swiftechs redistributor in france bacata,not bryans fault,he couldnt have been more helpful
> 
> Just bleeding the loop now and looking good and sounding quiet again


I'm very glad to hear it and thank you for your patience.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> is your reservoir at the top most of the loop. A reservoir can still be full and still have air bubbles in a loop. tis why its easier to prime a pump outside of a case, as you can rotate all of the parts and blocks to get rid of the air pockets.


well, not exactly top most as I have a top mounted radiator, but it's about the same level as the pump itself. It was bled outside the case initially....ran fine for a few months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> Anythings possible
> 
> Try tilting the case to the sides and back and front
> 
> Failing that,,drain and refill,,preferably outside the case as already mentioned


tried,didn't work. will drain in 2015!








waiting to order an EK universal waterblock do i can include my gpu in the loop as well
*sidenote* does anyone know when frozencpu sales are happening?


----------



## VSG

H220-x and pump adapter here! Unboxing tomorrow followed by testing soon after on 5960x, 4770k and Pentium G3258.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> H220-x and pump adapter here! Unboxing tomorrow followed by testing soon after on 5960x, 4770k and Pentium G3258.


No problem, VSG! I can't wait to see your unboxing and how this kit does in your testing. As I stated previously, Gabe was very impressed with your review of our MCP50X. Keep up the good work and let me know if you need anything else.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> well, not exactly top most as I have a top mounted radiator, but it's about the same level as the pump itself. It was bled outside the case initially....ran fine for a few months.
> tried,didn't work. will drain in 2015!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting to order an EK universal waterblock do i can include my gpu in the loop as well
> *sidenote* does anyone know when frozencpu sales are happening?


Generally happens around major American holidays, so it's extremely likely for a sale to happen near thanksgiving/black Friday/cyber Monday


----------



## VSG

No, thank you! I'll try to do my best


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No problem, VSG! I can't wait to see your unboxing and how this kit does in your testing. As I stated previously, Gabe was very impressed with your review of our MCP50X. Keep up the good work and let me know if you need anything else.


Yes that review was very detailed and we'll written it has convinced me that when the time comes for the gpu to go under water the mcp 50x will be my second pump


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Generally happens around major American holidays, so it's extremely likely for a sale to happen near thanksgiving/black Friday/cyber Monday


thanks for that. So there'll be a christmas sale too right? Looking for a sale around that time frame since that's when my bonuses start coming in


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> If I was to get the H220-X and wanted to change the tubing/fittings/coolant. Do I just drain the coolant out and put what coolant I want in or do I have to do something else?


Yep just drain and refill with your preferred fluid & bleed system. When I expanded my loop I used distilled water and a small amount HydrX.


----------



## Fantomau

im gonna use blood red primochill


----------



## fleetfeather

@BramSLI1, just to confirm, Swiftech doesn't have any plans for GTX 970 waterblocks, correct?

(I think you've answered this before)


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> im gonna use blood red primochill


That was my plan to install Swiftech H220X and blood red or black tubes, silver compression fittings and waterblock for my GTX780Ti K|NGP|N Classified.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @BramSLI1, just to confirm, Swiftech doesn't have any plans for GTX 970 waterblocks, correct?
> 
> (I think you've answered this before)


That's correct. There may be some that will work with our GTX 670 blocks though. Nvidia chose not to release a reference card for the 970, so making a water block for it that will be compatible with a wide range of cards is going to be nearly impossible.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. There may be some that will work with our GTX 670 blocks though. Nvidia chose not to release a reference card for the 970, so making a water block for it that will be compatible with a wide range of cards is going to be nearly impossible.


Yep, fully understand. Cheers mate


----------



## Fantomau

ek is working on a 970 block


----------



## fleetfeather

it'll likely be another 6 weeks before it hits Australia though. It's no biggie; I have a solution lined up. Just thought I'd see if the lads from swiftech had anything planned before I dropped some funds elsewhere.


----------



## Gavush

I have a H240x - I'm thinking of adding a drive bay reservoir to the system. I want to remove the fill/bleed port on the end of the reservoir and add a G1/4 barb and use a piece of hose to connect the drive bay reservoir to the H240x. The reservoir will be approximately the same height as the radiator unit. I think this will work. Here is what I have:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is what I want to install

Thoughts?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I have a H240x - I'm thinking of adding a drive bay reservoir to the system. I want to remove the fill/bleed port on the end of the reservoir and add a G1/4 barb and use a piece of hose to connect the drive bay reservoir to the H240x. The reservoir will be approximately the same height as the radiator unit. I think this will work. Here is what I have:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I want to install
> 
> Thoughts?


you'd want the bay res outflow ports to be higher than the 240x res fill port


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> you'd want the bay res outflow ports to be higher than the 240x res fill port


ah, yes looking at it with that in mind, the h240x port will definitely be higher than the reservoir port.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> ah, yes looking at it with that in mind, the h240x port will definitely be higher than the reservoir port.


it's still possible to run a res like that, but most people would advise against it. Could also investigate the option of using some fan shrouds to lower the height of the rad/res closer to the top of your mobo. I noticed from your pic that there is still a bit of cleareance between the bottom of the radiator and the top of your mobo. Maybe that will drop the res fill port low enough for your bay res?


----------



## Gavush

Actually I think I can move the I/O panel down a bay and use the top bay, the bottom of which is about 1/4" higher than the plug.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Ok guys, been a while since i've posted in this thread.so many new names..i do have a question for anyone willing to help. I've expanded my loop(h220), adding a reservoir and with the new revision of the impeller. For a while, everything was running fine at full speed but recently, i've gotten the same noise like an air bubble is stuck behind the impeller, unable to escape. My question is, is that still possible? My reservoir is full and i'm running distilled water if that helps any
> 
> Regards
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> ek is working on a 970 block
> 
> 
> 
> more specifically--ek is working on the msi gtx970 gaming block and far as i know the gigabyte g1 gtx970 block and possibly the asus strix gtx970
> 
> their older gtx760 blocks should fit reference pcb gtx970 like pny,galax,gainward etc
> 
> dont think they will make new blocks for every single model gtx970 just those 3 as they seem to be what most watercoolers will buy
> 
> im certainly eyeing up the msi gtx970 gaming
Click to expand...


----------



## Exothermic1982

Just completed a build with a H240x.


----------



## shanker

Nice Schiit stack! I just went with the Modi/Magni and I love it with my HD598s!

Back on topic..

Is there a reservoir I can use with the pump in the H220X pump if I take it out? If not, is there one that will work with the H220 I'm not using? I'm going to redo my system soon into a Luxe and I want to do a pump/res mount.


----------



## broncogr

For those in Europe waiting for the H220-x, its now available at highflow.nl


----------



## dVeLoPe

so i recieved my h240-x and am not pleased at all...

I am at around 63f ambient and my core i5-760 (first gen) is still hitting mid 70s


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> so i recieved my h240-x and am not pleased at all...
> 
> I am at around 63f ambient and my core i5-760 (first gen) is still hitting mid 70s


Try re-seating the block. What method are you using for applying the thermal compound?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> so i recieved my h240-x and am not pleased at all...
> 
> I am at around 63f ambient and my core i5-760 (first gen) is still hitting mid 70s


Is that mid 70s in Fahrenheit or Centigrade?


----------



## dVeLoPe

sorry 70c and AS5 looked better then the stock supplied ''tim mate'' that came with the kit
also used atric clean 2 step


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> sorry 70c and AS5 looked better then the stock supplied ''tim mate'' that came with the kit
> also used atric clean 2 step


What method are you using to apply the thermal compound? Are you putting a grain size amount in the center of the cpu and letting the block spread it or the line, X, or a few dots method? Or you spreading it yourself?


----------



## dVeLoPe

grain of rice in middle and block spreads it


----------



## dVeLoPe

60c gaming, 72c p95, 75c IBT idles around 40+- lowest ive seen is 35 on 1 core my little 4 year old i5 getting this hot?
defective unit? I have pictures from 4 years ago running on a CM212+ and a H100 with similar temps just + a few more degrees....


----------



## VSG

I don't have any experience with Lynnfield at all, but I know more recent chips hit mid 70s and 80s easily once overclocked/volted and stability test/benchmarks are being run. What were you doing when you observed the temps on the CPU?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> 60c gaming, 72c p95, 75c IBT idles around 40+- lowest ive seen is 35 on 1 core my little 4 year old i5 getting this hot?
> defective unit? I have pictures from 4 years ago running on a CM212+ and a H100 with similar temps just + a few more degrees....


did you check the pump is running?

first thing i did when re-installing my replacement h320 was check the rpm reported by the pump

then i looked at temperatures

if bios or software reports correct pump rpm then its probably not mounted right as cant see what could be defective other than the pump


----------



## dVeLoPe

pump impeller is seen spinning and reports 29xx min and 31xx max usually around 3019 rpm

Currently at 1.176v load (4ghz) with a max temp of 66c (ambient 71) like my my previous H50


----------



## Dudewitbow

if you are only getting 2900 min, then there's something terribly wrong as 2900-3000 means its running at full speed essentially without any PWM to tell it to run lower.


----------



## dVeLoPe

well then theirs even more reason to wonder why if its running at full speed my temps are so high

i5-760 running 21x200 for 4.2ghz @ 1.275v bios = 1.224/1.232 at 70c
cant run at 4.4 because mobo shuts down with temps hitting 81c (mobo shuts @ 80)


----------



## BangBangPlay

Realistically you aren't going to see a massive improvement in temps over some AIO coolers (especially Corsair). The H2x0X coolers can't defy the laws of thermodynamics , but they are expandable and refillable. That is their main appeal over their AIO counterparts, not that they will improve your temps by a wide margin.

I know first hand coming from a H100i, my CPU temps only dropped a few degrees on load. I added the H220X mainly for my GPUs (2 770s at the time), which did benefit from the extra rad space. When I sold the 770s and got a single 980 (for now) I had to hook up my two 240mm rads to the CPU only while I waited for my 980. The CPU still didn't see huge temp drops while running stress tests. It had a whole extra 240mm rad to dissipate heat. It has more to do with the heat spreader and the CPUs internal design than the loop or block you run...


----------



## ironhide138

Is it possible to mount a fan on the bottom left side of the h220x/240x too have push pull on one side?


----------



## dVeLoPe

yes it is


----------



## dVeLoPe

12hr421.287p95pass.jpg 700k .jpg file


wondering if my current cpu hits 70ish under load what will my new i7 run at...


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> 12hr421.287p95pass.jpg 700k .jpg file
> 
> 
> wondering if my current cpu hits 70ish under load what will my new i7 run at...


you sure its connected to a true pwm header?

it should run at roughly 1500 rpm on idle and shouldnt need to go to 3000 rpm

cant directly compare as dont have the h240x

but i have the h320 and an i7 2600k

and at idle im 1500 rpm at full load only 2200 rpm with the fan curve i set--going over 2200 rpm doesnt actually make much difference to temps but

does make it louder

running prime 95 at 4.8 ghz and 1.35v with ambient at roughly 18--20c i hit 65c on the hottest core

in an enthoo primo so do have really good case cooling

the h320 and h240x should be within a few degrees of each other i would think


----------



## Fantomau

I had a question.

If you customize the H220-X w/ different colored tubing/coolant, Does that void the warranty or what?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> I had a question.
> 
> If you customize the H220-X w/ different colored tubing/coolant, Does that void the warranty or what?


No, these kits were made to be expanded and customized.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> I had a question.
> 
> If you customize the H220-X w/ different colored tubing/coolant, Does that void the warranty or what?


the things that void warranty are running off a non PWM header directly, and non swiftech approved modifications to the unit (so dont physically mod any of the metal parts or open up the pump unless you get swiftechs sep by step live approval). Changing the tubing and fittings/clamps and fluid is within what you can do and is intended with the design of the loop


----------



## dVeLoPe

why would running the pump at full speed void the warranty thats stupid (source?)

I think i fgured out why my temps are bad I used a regular paper towel to wipe off the thermal paste

I made sure to blow on the cpu ihs so that any material would not be theri but I will try to reseat it again.

What is the best thermal paste? Should I try the AS5 again or use the supplied ''tim mate'' that came with the kit?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> why would running the pump at full speed void the warranty thats stupid (source?)
> 
> I think i fgured out why my temps are bad I used a regular paper towel to wipe off the thermal paste
> 
> I made sure to blow on the cpu ihs so that any material would not be theri but I will try to reseat it again.
> 
> What is the best thermal paste? Should I try the AS5 again or use the supplied ''tim mate'' that came with the kit?


I must have missed a post i didn't read anyone saying running a pump at full speed voids warranty.... if you overvolted it that might.... or as was posted modifying the pump/housing... be sure to use highest content alcohol you can 99% is best I use 92 because it's more commonly available... be sure it's evaporated before applying tim and be sure all the old tim is removed high content alcohol doesn't leave residue as badly be sure to clean tim off both block and cpu fully... also the tim mate that comes with the kit is pretty good and requires no cure time for best results...as5 requires cure time for lowest temps most people say to use the grain of rice method for best results with either of those two...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if you are only getting 2900 min, then there's something terribly wrong as 2900-3000 means its running at full speed essentially without any PWM to tell it to run lower.


not necessarily the pwm could be set to high curve.... plus with those temps it should be running pretty good with any curve at that point...I run mine at 75% until load temp then 100%...I don't car about the noise I want highest performance


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the things that void warranty are running off a non PWM header directly, and non swiftech approved modifications to the unit (so dont physically mod any of the metal parts or open up the pump unless you get swiftechs sep by step live approval). Changing the tubing and fittings/clamps and fluid is within what you can do and is intended with the design of the loop


This was an issue with the H220 and H320 kits because of the design of the previous generation of pumps. The MCP30 though has two separate connectors so the PWM connector no longer carries power to the pump. Due to this there is no longer an issue of what header you have it connected to and running the pump at full-speed was never the issue. It had to do with power fluctuations through the motherboard that had the potential to kill the previous generation of pumps. I hope this clarifies this issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> why would running the pump at full speed void the warranty thats stupid (source?)
> 
> I think i fgured out why my temps are bad I used a regular paper towel to wipe off the thermal paste
> 
> I made sure to blow on the cpu ihs so that any material would not be theri but I will try to reseat it again.
> 
> What is the best thermal paste? Should I try the AS5 again or use the supplied ''tim mate'' that came with the kit?


AS5 is a rather old thermal paste. I remember using it 7 years ago when I first got into water cooling. Thermal pastes have come a long way since then. I highly recommend using our Tim Mate II because it should give you much better performance and it has no cure time.


----------



## dVeLoPe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> AS5 is a rather old thermal paste. I remember using it 7 years ago when I first got into water cooling. Thermal pastes have come a long way since then. I highly recommend using our Tim Mate II because it should give you much better performance and it has no cure time.


I used Artic Cleaner 2 step to clean when I applied the AS5 but used a regular paper towel would this have affected it? (regardless of paste)

I will use t he 2 step cleaner again but what would be considered ''lint-free'' to dry before apply a grain of rice in the middle of the tim mate?
(or should I use a different method for this paste)

Also does adding another Helix140 or any fan to the radiator for push pull on one side make a difference in temps at all?

CPU is a first gen i5-760 till the end of the year but I plan on upgrading to the new Intel i5 or i7 but it's not a crazy amount of vCore
my ambients are pretty good with good case/cooling


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> I used Artic Cleaner 2 step to clean when I applied the AS5 but used a regular paper towel would this have affected it? (regardless of paste)
> 
> I will use t he 2 step cleaner again but what would be considered ''lint-free'' to dry before apply a grain of rice in the middle of the tim mate?
> (or should I use a different method for this paste)
> 
> Also does adding another Helix140 or any fan to the radiator for push pull on one side make a difference in temps at all?
> 
> CPU is a first gen i5-760 till the end of the year but I plan on upgrading to the new Intel i5 or i7 but it's not a crazy amount of vCore
> my ambients are pretty good with good case/cooling


Paper towel effect? pretty minimal as long as you're careful about removing any left over paper fibers

Lint-free refers to a type of microfiber cloth. A fitting substitute would be the cloth that comes with many pairs of glasses and sunglasses. The same sort of cloth you would use to wipe down phone screens too.

Extra fan benefit will be marginal. The H240X rad is 30mm thick and not super dense in terms of FPI

Comparing your temps on a 760 with people owning an HW or DC chip isn't exactly ideal. You're likely one of the very few people with a H240X using that socket at this point, and there very well may be differences in temp simply due to your chip or your socket. Realistically, if the mounting is done correctly, your thermal paste is applied correctly, and there's nothing obviously wrong with the pump, then your temps are going to be as expected. There's really very few ways to have issues with a cooling solution if you simply take your time and do things as per instruction.

Best of luck,


----------



## Mega Man

always recommended you use a microfiber cloth not a paper towel

paper towels have the ability to loose fibers


----------



## dVeLoPe

So here is a screenshot to show the problem I am having.

Not sure if it was a H50 or a 212+ as I had both around that time and probably used both since they yielded same results

so now im at 1.224vCore with the H240-X and im getting the same max temp of 75c.... 4 years later and a 170$ cooler for the same results..
(click attachment to see text clearly GPU-Z/RealTemp circled in red is now with H240-x other image is a screenshot from before...



****sngiggles.jpg 488k .jpg file


----------



## dVeLoPe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> always recommended you use a microfiber cloth not a paper towel
> 
> paper towels have the ability to loose fibers


made sure to clean the surface and blow off any particles.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> always recommended you use a microfiber cloth not a paper towel
> 
> paper towels have the ability to loose fibers


Definately


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> made sure to clean the surface and blow off any particles.


Any how did it go? Did you see a drop in temps? Excuse the condescending tone in my earlier post, but it's just that lots of folks complain about temp, clock speed, and FPS comparisons in the forums. The first thought is that their hardware is defective, but it could be a number of variables. Sometime people compare apples to oranges, or forget to factor in changing voltages and ambient temps too.

Devils Canyon does offer slightly better temps than 1st gen Haswell due to superior thermal compound beneath the heat spreader. I have seen slightly lower (3-5C) average idle temps and decent average load temps (5-8C) in identical stress tests after making the switch. Just stay below 1.340V and you'll be able to stress it appropriately. Hopefully you can work it out and see the temps you were expecting...


----------



## cephelix

@dVeLoPe looking at your temps and voltages, it looks pretty similar to mine when i oc'ed my 760 to 4.0giggles. Was running a stock h220, ambient temps were around 25(aircon room)


----------



## dVeLoPe

whats worryinig me is i have an audible buzzz/hissing noise coming from the pump area


----------



## CSHawkeye

I am having some issues with the installation (More or less the cables for powering the pump) I know the sata power is the main one but did you need to connect the other 2 I have? I was not planning on using the PWM Controller they provided but wanted to know as I tested it out the other night and my temps in the bios were at 71C. I thought it might have been an issue with the contact of the waterblock but I verified that it has full contact and that I did not put too much thermal compound onto the cpu.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> whats worryinig me is i have an audible buzzz/hissing noise coming from the pump area


It's likely just some air in the reservoir. Email me at [email protected] so that I can assist you with this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> I am having some issues with the installation (More or less the cables for powering the pump) I know the sata power is the main one but did you need to connect the other 2 I have? I was not planning on using the PWM Controller they provided but wanted to know as I tested it out the other night and my temps in the bios were at 71C. I thought it might have been an issue with the contact of the waterblock but I verified that it has full contact and that I did not put too much thermal compound onto the cpu.


Can you take a picture and show me what connectors you're talking about? This will help me to know what they're for and where they need to be connected.


----------



## CSHawkeye

Sure when I get home I will, but from the pump connector I ended up having the SATA power and then 2 4 pin connectors. Was one supposed to go to the PWM controller while the other goes to the motherboard?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> Sure when I get home I will, but from the pump connector I ended up having the SATA power and then 2 4 pin connectors. Was one supposed to go to the PWM controller while the other goes to the motherboard?


I believe that one of those four pin connectors plugs into the pump. The other would plug into either the splitter or your motherboard. If your pump isn't plugged in then you're not circulating any fluid. This could be why your temps are so high.


----------



## CSHawkeye

I think the picture might help out, but there is a small 2 pin connection coming from the pump that then goes to this cable that has 2x 4 pin connectors and 1 sata power. Also as a side note will this setup fit in a corsair 450D case?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> I think the picture might help out, but there is a small 2 pin connection coming from the pump that then goes to this cable that has 2x 4 pin connectors and 1 sata power. Also as a side note will this setup fit in a corsair 450D case?


The two pin connector is for the LED in the reservoir. This kit will probably just barely fit in a 450D. Corsair's own AIO kits fit well, but our radiator is a few mm thicker. I would measure the room you have above the motherboard just to be sure.


----------



## CSHawkeye

Ah well that could be the issue, does one of those 4 pins then go into the pump? I would assume I didnt see this so when I get back from my trip I will check that out.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> Ah well that could be the issue, does one of those 4 pins then go into the pump? I would assume I didnt see this so when I get back from my trip I will check that out.


Yes, one of those four pin connectors should plug into the pump.


----------



## VSG

Is there a reason it came out that way? Given the SATA PWM splitter as is, I was wondering if the pump could not be powered by it also- not the way it is now with the power not tied to the 4 pin PWM cable, but that modular power cable is just begging for a single cable. Is it beyond the power delivery of a single channel on the 8-way splitter?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is there a reason it came out that way? Given the SATA PWM splitter as is, I was wondering if the pump could not be powered by it also- not the way it is now with the power not tied to the 4 pin PWM cable, but that modular power cable is just begging for a single cable. Is it beyond the power delivery of a single channel on the 8-way splitter?


I believe it was designed that way to ensure that the pump received its own direct power source. This helps to eliminate any issues that might occur when trying to deliver power and a PWM signal if a customer chooses to connect the pump directly to their motherboard.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I believe it was designed that way to ensure that the pump received its own direct power source. This helps to eliminate any issues that might occur when trying to deliver power and a PWM signal if a customer chooses to connect the pump directly to their motherboard.


Fair enough, especially that last point. Thermal tests on 4770k and G3258 done on as-is received kit- very cool so far (pun intended!).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I believe that one of those four pin connectors plugs into the pump. The other would plug into either the splitter or your motherboard. If your pump isn't plugged in then you're not circulating any fluid. This could be why your temps are so high.


yeah as a side note that pump connector isn't very secure when I was bleeding first couple times I noticed it lost connection with it still plugged in pretty easily. .maybe something to consider in later revisions or simular models... it didn't seem to fit snugly on the socket..perhaps a small locking tab like on sata cables?


----------



## Fantomau

could the H220-X be good enough to cool a cpu and a gpu?

I have a 4790k and a gtx 970


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> whats worryinig me is i have an audible buzzz/hissing noise coming from the pump area


I think 70-75C under full load is not bad for 1500MHz overclocked i5.
I don't remember exactly but that's not far from limit of that CPU except for minus.
Like someone say all AIO units Kraken, H100i, H220X, and others temp difference of processor couldn't be more than 5C.
Manufacturer pull probably max from similar system. But H220X worth because you can use compression fittings and angle adapters and if you put CPU and Graphic card than he should show how much worth that pump. If H220X provide 60-65C for CPU+GPU on 240mm or 280mm radiator under full load he is winner. Or 50-55C with one more radiator.
No such AIO system to drop temps of highly overclocked processor under full load, Prime95 to 60C.Except maybe 2500K but he is specific processor and he will be cold on any system.


----------



## Emu105

I have a question, is there a way I can get the original bracket and screws for the h220 ? Thank you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emu105*
> 
> I have a question, is there a way I can get the original bracket and screws for the h220 ? Thank you.


We don't sell these separately. What you'll need instead is the mounting kit for the Apogee Drive II because it's compatible with the H220 as well. You'll need the screws and the back plate. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## MisoMiso

Bram,

ETA on when the H240-X will be in stock on your website?


----------



## WilliamGayde

Here is my review of the H240-X
http://www.overclock.net/products/swiftech-h240-x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit/reviews/6946


----------



## Someone09

Nice review.









Talking about reviews, are there any reviews of the newer AiOs (H320, H220x, H240x) out there that are a little bit more rough with the unit?
Meaning a review that really tries to find out how far you can push (as in expand) the unit?

Would really like to see how they perform with a CPU and GPU or a CPU and two GPUs or just two GPUs in the loop.
I know they wouldn´t be strong enough for the latter two...but still...would really like to see something like this.


----------



## WilliamGayde

I tested with a CPU block, a GPU block, the standard radiator, and an additional dual radiator. It shows no signs of slowing down. I didn't test it to its breaking point, but I'm sure it can handle another radiator or GPU block. That is probably it though. 2 GPUs, a CPU, and 2 radiators.


----------



## Someone09

No, I meant just use the unit as it is without additional radiators, not really caring too much about noise and just see how far you can push it as it is.


----------



## Gavush

Someone09, I will be adding two GPU in parallel and a 240rad to my H240x so we will see what happens. Worse case I have to add a pump if things are unsavory. I've already got the GPU blocks and radiator should be here Friday, need to get a parallel bridge and work out tubing/fittings.

(edit) ah, just saw where you said no additional radiators.


----------



## Lew666

question guys, i have a corsair c70 vengance case and am getting the asus rampage extreme board i also have the i7 3930k how ever i am after a good cooler would the h220x fit, i hnow it takes a 240mm fan but any thickness issues here?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lew666*
> 
> question guys, i have a corsair c70 vengance case and am getting the asus rampage extreme board i also have the i7 3930k how ever i am after a good cooler would the h220x fit, i hnow it takes a 240mm fan but any thickness issues here?


The C70 will fit a 240 or 280 radiator in the top. The 280 mounting points are a corsair specific 20mm fan spacing vs 15mm standard, however the holes are enlarged to use the rubber grommets that come with the case. If you do not use the grommets, a 280 radiator with 15mm spacing will bolt in, just barely.

I have a C70 with a H240x installed. The H220x is the same thickness as the H240x.

The Rampage Extreme is the same size as my M5a99FX Pro R2.0. (30.5 cm x24.5 cm)

Here are pics of the install


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> No, I meant just use the unit as it is without additional radiators, not really caring too much about noise and just see how far you can push it as it is.


there are a lot of variables there such as cards,blocks, cpu variances, software setups, motherboard, and fans to name a few and all of these will affect the performance


----------



## CSHawkeye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WilliamGayde*
> 
> Here is my review of the H240-X
> http://www.overclock.net/products/swiftech-h240-x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit/reviews/6946


+1 Rep for you William, that review was what I was looking for online to help me out. Now I do not plan to use the Fan controller, should I then put the 4pin fan connector onto the motherboard?


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there are a lot of variables there such as cards,blocks, cpu variances, software setups, motherboard, and fans to name a few and all of these will affect the performance


True. I am pretty close to order one and just try if one single H240x with the stock radiator would be able to handle two 780Tis.
Most probably won´t be quiet...but still...


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Nice review! So does anyone think adding a 3rd 140mm fan to the H240x will make a difference?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Nice review! So does anyone think adding a 3rd 140mm fan to the H240x will make a difference?


I'd say another 5-10%, so you can either run all 3 fans a little quieter to maintain the same temps you have now or get that little bit lower temps overall. Definitely worth it in my opinion, given the cost of the fans.

I am done with the thermal tests on the H220-x as is and with different TIM/fans as well. Next up, disassembly and expansion. Here's one picture (of many incoming in the review) of this impressive pre-filled custom loop:


----------



## YroPro

Hey guys, I'm about to buy my roommate a H240X, an R9 290x, Komodo R9 LE waterblock, and two 240mm radiators. Can someone give me a list of all of the supporting parts I will need to make this work? Fittings/hoses/fluid?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisoMiso*
> 
> Bram,
> 
> ETA on when the H240-X will be in stock on your website?


They should be back in stock now.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to buy my roommate a H240X, an R9 290x, Komodo R9 LE waterblock, and two 240mm radiators. Can someone give me a list of all of the supporting parts I will need to make this work? Fittings/hoses/fluid?


Get this adapter for the pump outlet: http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx to save any potential hassles. Now that is taken care of, you can use any G 1/4 threaded fittings and tubing/compressions/barbs of your size choice accordingly.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to buy my roommate a H240X, an R9 290x, Komodo R9 LE waterblock, and two 240mm radiators. Can someone give me a list of all of the supporting parts I will need to make this work? Fittings/hoses/fluid?


Just make sure your fittings, and tubing are 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD, as well as clamps(if you are using barbs) to be 5/8". Bare minimum, you need 2 fittings per component, so adding a GPU block and 2 radiators require at minimum 6 more fittings.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Just make sure your fittings, and tubing are 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD, as well as clamps(if you are using barbs) to be 5/8". Bare minimum, you need 2 fittings per component, so adding a GPU block and 2 radiators require at minimum 6 more fittings.


Why that particular size only? He would need new tubing and fittings anyway so he can freely replace the existing ones also.


----------



## YroPro

Okay, so six fittings for 3/8" and 5/8" tubing, one G 1/4 Pump Outlet Adapter, some 3/8"ID 5/8"OD tubing, and unless I can get identical tubing I may as well replace the stock H240x tubing I guess. And some kind of anti-microbial fluid.

Anything I missed?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> could the H220-X be good enough to cool a cpu and a gpu?
> 
> I have a 4790k and a gtx 970


Not oc it should. I'd add a 240 rad specially if oc ing. I did it before with the glacer 240l and my temps were great. Adding another rad is not too much money and worth it


----------



## v1ral

Guys got any picturez with the h240x mounted in a corsair 540, or canskme tell me whats the thickest 360 rad that can be mounted with fans in the front area?


----------



## YroPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Guys got any picturez with the h240x mounted in a corsair 540, or canskme tell me whats the thickest 360 rad that can be mounted with fans in the front area?


No pics until I get home, but I have the H240x, it fits fine. Fairly sure you have to have a 30mm in the front, _maybe_ a 45.


----------



## smithydan

The pump is strong enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why that particular size only? He would need new tubing and fittings anyway so he can freely replace the existing ones also.


I would like to know this also, I know that size is the stock tubing but what else is the h220x open too?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why that particular size only? He would need new tubing and fittings anyway so he can freely replace the existing ones also.


what i mentioned was the least possible cost method. He's free to change up the fittings as he pleases, but the extra clamps would cost him a bit more of he wanted thicker tubing


----------



## YroPro

Also, can someone explain this compatibility list for the R9 Komodo LE? I'm confused on the MSI cards.

Is this card compatible or not??

Edited out a mistake I made.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> Also, can someone explain this compatibility list for the R9 Komodo LE? I'm confused on the MSI and Gigabyte cards.
> 
> Is this or this card compatible or not??


whats confusing about that compatibility list?

looks straight forward--only 2 cards with a no

the asus and the msi gaming

and unless you already have a r9 290x i wouldnt even consider buying one--the gtx970 has got amd beat all day long till their new series cards


----------



## YroPro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> whats confusing about that compatibility list?
> 
> looks straight forward--only 2 cards with a no
> 
> the asus and the msi gaming
> 
> and unless you already have a r9 290x i wouldnt even consider buying one--the gtx970 has got amd beat all day long till their new series cards


The confusing part being that there are 3 MSI's, and I'm not sure which of those is the one I linked in amazon. I put the gigabyte one there by accident.

Lol, no. I have the 295x2.
This is a gift for my roommate. The 970 and 290x are usually very close in performance, and the majority of games we play use Cryengine 3, which tends to favor AMD. Additionally he's going to be getting a UHD display soon and the 290x will perform better at higher resolutions due to the 512 bit bus. Aesthetically it will go well with the FX-9590 and 2400mhz AMD RAM I bought him. The waterblock is just so he can practice on it, instead of a 390x when it releases.

Besides, it's winter. We needed a space heater anyways.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> The confusing part being that there are 3 MSI's, and I'm not sure which of those is the one I linked in amazon. I put the gigabyte one there by accident.
> 
> Lol, no. I have the 295x2.
> This is a gift for my roommate. The 970 and 290x are usually very close in performance, and the majority of games we play use Cryengine 3, which tends to favor AMD. Additionally he's going to be getting a UHD display soon and the 290x will perform better at higher resolutions due to the 512 bit bus. Aesthetically it will go well with the FX-9590 and 2400mhz AMD RAM I bought him. The waterblock is just so he can practice on it, instead of a 390x when it releases.
> 
> Besides, it's winter. We needed a space heater anyways.


That link really doesn't provide enough information to determine what card that is. You'd probably need to contact Amazon to get clarification on what card that is.


----------



## YroPro

That's what I was worried about. I assume I can get a model number from them, and then just compare that to the list?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> That's what I was worrier about. I assume I can get a model number from them, and then just compare that to the list?


Right. If you have any questions you can always PM me.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YroPro*
> 
> The confusing part being that there are 3 MSI's, and I'm not sure which of those is the one I linked in amazon. I put the gigabyte one there by accident.
> 
> Lol, no. I have the 295x2.
> This is a gift for my roommate. The 970 and 290x are usually very close in performance, and the majority of games we play use Cryengine 3, which tends to favor AMD. Additionally he's going to be getting a UHD display soon and the 290x will perform better at higher resolutions due to the 512 bit bus. Aesthetically it will go well with the FX-9590 and 2400mhz AMD RAM I bought him. The waterblock is just so he can practice on it, instead of a 390x when it releases.
> 
> Besides, it's winter. We needed a space heater anyways.


one good thing--the gtx970 has caused some huge price drops on the r9 290x--though i still just ordered myself an early xmas present of the msi gtx 970







as to me the gtx970 is a clear winner power

consumption and heat wise--much as i liked my hd7970 the r9 290x for me at 1080p didnt stand a chance against the gtx970

to me it looks like the msi card you linked is the one thats not compatible--though an actual model number as mentioned would be better to be 100% sure


----------



## dVeLoPe

so hes getting 55c max and im all the way up to 75c thats ridicoulous

so im totally gonna reseat the block this weekend

its been almost the 200 hours of cure time for my as5 and no temp difference since I first booted.

purchased a 980 Classified to will be added to the loop but if it cant handle the CPU alone...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> so hes getting 55c max and im all the way up to 75c thats ridicoulous
> 
> so im totally gonna reseat the block this weekend
> 
> its been almost the 200 hours of cure time for my as5 and no temp difference since I first booted.
> 
> purchased a 980 Classified to will be added to the loop but if it cant handle the CPU alone...


Add a 240 rad and you'll be golden and be able to oc both cpu and gpu. A nice swiftech 240 rad will run 40-50 low end and wi be well worth it.


----------



## VSG

More tidbits as the H220-X review shapes up:





Sound levels were recorded 6" away from each object under test.

Edit: The pump was pretty cool too- between 4.4 and 4.8 ºC above ambient throughout


----------



## Woesty420

Anyone able to change the LED colour in the res? Or remove it?

Also, does anyone have custom h220x or 240x setups with added rads, blocks, tubing and what not?

Looking to add to mine, just need some ideas and some inspiration and wondering if I put a coloured liquid in, if that led will light it up weird or not.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> Anyone able to change the LED colour in the res? Or remove it?
> 
> Also, does anyone have custom h220x or 240x setups with added rads, blocks, tubing and what not?
> 
> Looking to add to mine, just need some ideas and some inspiration and wondering if I put a coloured liquid in, if that led will light it up weird or not.


I would suggest finding something colored and transparent to cut to fit over the window that would allow it to be whatever color you wanted and allow you to change the colors if you wanted later and not have to drain/change anything... i was considering this idea for mine but havent really done it yet... i was thinking like the thin plastic folders you can buy would make a good candidate.. cheap easy to cut and easy to secure... just a thought







A lot of use have expanded on the h220x.. it expands well and works phenominal for the price point


----------



## GraveDigger7878

So do you put the pump on the CPU PWM to adjust the speed Mr. Geggeg? I am trying to figure out what to do with the PWM switch and the fans and stuffs.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> Anyone able to change the LED colour in the res? Or remove it?
> 
> Also, does anyone have custom h220x or 240x setups with added rads, blocks, tubing and what not?
> 
> Looking to add to mine, just need some ideas and some inspiration and wondering if I put a coloured liquid in, if that led will light it up weird or not.


Colored transparent film is the easiest way to change the color.
I added a 2nd 240 rad to my 220x and even under load I only need to run the pump at 2200 rpm. If you plan on running multiple blocks and rads the pump can handle it but I would recommend changing out the factory fittings with higher flowing pieces. Here's a pic of the factory one, hose, and the replacement.

The inside diameter of the factory fittings is small compared to the replacement.


----------



## Woesty420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I would suggest finding something colored and transparent to cut to fit over the window that would allow it to be whatever color you wanted and allow you to change the colors if you wanted later and not have to drain/change anything... i was considering this idea for mine but havent really done it yet... i was thinking like the thin plastic folders you can buy would make a good candidate.. cheap easy to cut and easy to secure... just a thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of use have expanded on the h220x.. it expands well and works phenominal for the price point


How would you go about securing the plastic or whatever that would be used? My computer is UV heavy and the white light detracts from the UV. Would be nice if I could switch out the LED to a UV led like I did with my Soundblaster Z or just get rid of it.

*Does anyone have any pics of their custom h220x or 240x loops??* I'd like some ideas and can't find any pics anywhere on the net.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> So do you put the pump on the CPU PWM to adjust the speed Mr. Geggeg? I am trying to figure out what to do with the PWM switch and the fans and stuffs.


If you are relying on the CPU fan header and fan control from the motherboard then use the included 8-way PWM splitter to hook up the pump PWM cable and the two fan PWM cables. I'd probably put the pump cable in Channel 1 myself. This then leaves you with 4 cables instead of 6: CPU LED cable (connect to any fan header that controls via DC output- you can even set the light to dim/bright/cycle based on a controller), pump SATA power, PWM splitter SATA power, and PWM splitter PWM cable which goes to the CPU fan header. I will explain all this with pics in the review if this didn't help.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> How would you go about securing the plastic or whatever that would be used? My computer is UV heavy and the white light detracts from the UV. Would be nice if I could switch out the LED to a UV led like I did with my Soundblaster Z or just get rid of it.
> 
> *Does anyone have any pics of their custom h220x or 240x loops??* I'd like some ideas and can't find any pics anywhere on the net.


I'm not sure how hard it would be to change the led but I'm pretty sure it would void warranty as well... after thinking a bit last night you could use colored window tint or anything that was static cling... I'm gonna do some looking that might actually be best way... maybe like this stuff
http://m.ebay.com/itm/380415359185?_mwBanner=1
Or maybe this if you could find in smaller quantity
http://www.windowtint.com/Red-Car-Film.html


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm not sure how hard it would be to change the led but I'm pretty sure it would void warranty as well... after thinking a bit last night you could use colored window tint or anything that was static cling... I'm gonna do some looking that might actually be best way... maybe like this stuff
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/380415359185?_mwBanner=1
> Or maybe this if you could find in smaller quantity
> http://www.windowtint.com/Red-Car-Film.html


I just ordered some transparent vinyl to try. It has an adhesive built in and from past experience it's easy to remove. For my first attempt I tried blue transparency paper but that doesn't cling or have adhesive. I thought I could use the bleed screw to keep it in place but doing that didn't allow for the rubber washer on the screw to fully seal to the window.


----------



## smithydan

Confirming something. I have seen h220x plus 2 gpus and 60mm thick 240 rad.

Using the same setup but having a 360 45mm thick rad in vertical orientation be pushing it? Thanks.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Confirming something. I have seen h220x plus 2 gpus and 60mm thick 240 rad.
> 
> Using the same setup but having a 360 45mm thick rad in vertical orientation be pushing it? Thanks.


Most rads aren't very restrictive at all. I am guessing Alphacool XT45 there? If so, that's one of the least restrictive rads out there too- you will be fine. Just have it oriented to minimize air pockets being formed.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just have it oriented to minimize air pockets being formed.


Explain. You mean tubes at top or tubes at bottom?
I am looking to get into water cooling so I am picking information as I go along


----------



## VSG

Just thinking about how the endtanks work, if you have the inlet/outlet at the bottom then there can be an air pocket trapped at the top of the rad in the vertical orientation which, depending on the pump/case layout etc, can be a hassle to bleed. But I have never had rads vertically mounted (aka no real experience myself) so that's there!


----------



## smithydan

Okay thanks.

Forgive my ignorance to my next question.

How do I go about filling up the loop in a setup like this? Or is it better to add a res to the loop for that purpose?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Okay thanks.
> 
> Forgive my ignorance to my next question.
> 
> How do I go about filling up the loop in a setup like this? Or is it better to add a res to the loop for that purpose?


it doesn't appear they have a fill port installed on the h220x so you would have to remove the h220x and fill thru the fill port in its right end however of you install a fill port you can fill without removing the h220x... which I have yet to add







silly bills getting in the way


----------



## VSG

It might be easier to take out the rad/res/pump combo slightly outside and then turn everything by 90º to get access to the fill port. That Monsta + single set of fans won't do you any help there either.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It might be easier to take out the rad/res/pump combo slightly outside and then turn everything by 90º to get access to the fill port. That Monsta + single set of fans won't do you any help there either.


yeah honestly it's less risky imo to just remove the h220x...no chance of getting components wet and such BUT I haven't bought a screw in funnel or the like so that probably affects my view







I'm poor and cheap







but thinking about it if they didn't leave any slack in the tubes to the block etc it might be a pain to remove it... best case is to have a length of hose with a fill port in the h220x with a plug in the end so you can fill at will and just plug and tuck it away... my plans are to add this and a drain port at the bottom when I get the cash


----------



## smithydan

Ah thanks guys.
Reason I am asking is I have that case an looking to do something very similar.

So the next silly question, where would I put on a drain valve? on the GPU?


----------



## fr1s

Do you guys know if H220X fits into the BitFenix Prodigy M, with Asus R9 270 (direct cu)? or how thick is the water pump + reservoir together?? (mm)

here's the pic of the fitment
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_mGhPaeOZMxRGhtTWxLd0lsVzhMUmd4OS1fcnVmWE8yelJv/view?usp=sharing

there' only 2 inches of space from the top of gfx card to the top of the case.. so I'll have to mount the fans on top. can the Pump + reservoir fit?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Ah thanks guys.
> Reason I am asking is I have that case an looking to do something very similar.
> 
> So the next silly question, where would I put on a drain valve? on the GPU?


That appears to be the lowest point if you do decide to add one you would still have to tip the case at least on the side to get all the water out but it would work fine there.. i would say probably go about halfway from the fitting on the gpu block and make the t short with a plug so you can connect a hose only when you need to drain so it doesnt try to pull air from the hose into gpu block.. it shouldnt but its possible id say when the pump stops if there was air in that line...or put in a t with a valve that has the barb or comp fitting on the bottom... however you choose to do so that to me looks like the best spot


----------



## Chipicao

Finally got mine delivered yesterday and I managed to move everything into my new case.

   

It took me ages to get all the air out after I replaced the tubing and refilled. Well, by ages I mean a little under 2 hours, but this was my first time.









There were a lot of small bubbles going through the tubing, sort of like a fizz. They're gone now, but there are still some stuck on the return tube. Is this normal, will they go away in time?

Also, I forgot to wash down the tubing before I installed it. Will it be a problem? It was new btw.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> That appears to be the lowest point if you do decide to add one you would still have to tip the case at least on the side to get all the water out but it would work fine there.. i would say probably go about halfway from the fitting on the gpu block and make the t short with a plug so you can connect a hose only when you need to drain so it doesnt try to pull air from the hose into gpu block.. it shouldnt but its possible id say when the pump stops if there was air in that line...or put in a t with a valve that has the barb or comp fitting on the bottom... however you choose to do so that to me looks like the best spot


Thanks.


----------



## thelude

To H220x owners, can you disassemble the unit completely (pump from radiator)? Reason I'm asking is because I want to buy the new pump and waterblock but don't need the radiator. Upgrading my custom H220. I have all my radiators in place already. I am not saving that much if I buy the parts a la carte. Thanks peeps.


----------



## VSG

Well if you buy the pump separately, you get the MCP50x that goes to 4500 rpm (and accordingly has more performance to boot with past the 3000 rpm on the MCP30). Not saying that you need it, but it's not apples to apples necessarily going a la carte vs H220-x.

To answer your question- yes, you can easily remove the existing pump from the pump/res/rad combo. You will need a pump top though if not using it with the reservoir of the H220-X, and at this time there are no MCP30/50X pump tops only available directly to purchase.


----------



## thelude

oh i thought the h220-x pump was the mcp50x. Guess should of read on it more. my bad. thanks for the info @gegeg


----------



## FlanK3r

Its nice Friday and my morning is about working at my PC. No crazy loads, only office, emails and sometimes take a look to the forums







. Im going to lunch and I came back, my PC is frozed and in Coretemp I see temps 78 C! ***?
So hard restart, everything is OK and around 5 minutes " boooom", I shocked a lot, my tube at Swiftech H220 explozed :-D. The hole is not big, but watter flows out, I must shutdownd PSU...


__
https://flic.kr/p/pLGVga



__
https://flic.kr/p/q3XJ5D


__
https://flic.kr/p/pLLjLD

There is hole, crack...I think one reason were temps at CPUNB and I think, there was some issues with pump in block...

So, back to pure aircooling









__
https://flic.kr/p/pLN2HQ


Hope, it will be OK for RMA...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlanK3r*
> 
> Its nice Friday and my morning is about working at my PC. No crazy loads, only office, emails and sometimes take a look to the forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Im going to lunch and I came back, my PC is frozed and in Coretemp I see temps 78 C! ***?
> So hard restart, everything is OK and around 5 minutes " boooom", I shocked a lot, my tube at Swiftech H220 explozed :-D. The hole is not big, but watter flows out, I must shutdownd PSU...
> 
> There is hole, crack...I think one reason were temps at CPUNB and I think, there was some issues with pump in block...
> 
> So, back to pure aircooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/url]
> 
> Hope, it will be OK for RMA...


Please PM me about this so that I can assist you.


----------



## FlanK3r

PM sent


----------



## LOKI23NY

Finally getting closer to expanding my loop and it's time to order up all the remaining parts.

I was reading some of the comments a few pages back about fittings and tube size and wanted to see if anyone could briefly explain the pro's vs con's of different sizes? I've dug around in some other threads but wanted to see if there was anything specific to the h220-x that I should keep in mind.

A few of my main concerns are:

1.Tube size - Would switching to 1/2 inch do anything with performance or is this more for looks and how easy it is to bend?

2. Barbs - I was considering changing these out but figure it's not worth spending extra money on something no one is going to really see. So if I stick with barbs, is there a certain brand or style that allows for more flow than others?

I already have a 200mm rad installed and waiting to join the party. Once GTX 970 blocks are released I will finally get to work finishing this setup. To make life easier I am also going to also add a small res to help with maintenance.

Finally I'm going to test my fan setup. I currently have the fans on H220-x pulling air in through the top of the case. The front fan is intake and then I have one 120mm exhaust. I'm going to try changing the top fans to exhaust and adding a third fan.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Finally getting closer to expanding my loop and it's time to order up all the remaining parts.
> 
> I was reading some of the comments a few pages back about fittings and tube size and wanted to see if anyone could briefly explain the pro's vs con's of different sizes? I've dug around in some other threads but wanted to see if there was anything specific to the h220-x that I should keep in mind.
> 
> A few of my main concerns are:
> 
> 1.Tube size - Would switching to 1/2 inch do anything with performance or is this more for looks and how easy it is to bend?
> 
> 2. Barbs - I was considering changing these out but figure it's not worth spending extra money on something no one is going to really see. So if I stick with barbs, is there a certain brand or style that allows for more flow than others?
> 
> I already have a 200mm rad installed and waiting to join the party. Once GTX 970 blocks are released I will finally get to work finishing this setup. To make life easier I am also going to also add a small res to help with maintenance.
> 
> Finally I'm going to test my fan setup. I currently have the fans on H220-x pulling air in through the top of the case. The front fan is intake and then I have one 120mm exhaust. I'm going to try changing the top fans to exhaust and adding a third fan.


1. There is no performance difference between 3/8 and 1/2 tubing.

2. The factory fittings are 1 piece. If you upgrade you need to buy G1/4 angled rotary fittings and either barbs or compression fittings for the tubing size you plan on using. You also need to order the pump adapter. The factory fittings work fine but I did notice when I expanded my loop that the inside diameter of the the original fittings is smaller than having separate rotary/barb fittings.
Putting a 2nd res into the loop will make bleeding the system far easier.
Before I expanded my loop I did run in push pull and saw a 2c temp improvement.


----------



## orndorf77

can I buy just a custom face plate for my swiftest apogee xl ? performance pcs is sellimg swiftest apogee xl water blocks with custom made face plates . since I all ready have a swiftest apogee xl do you think the will just sell me a custom face plate . I want the biohazard edition face plate but instead of it being black I want to get it in red so it matches my build . and does anyone know of another store online that will do custom face plates ?


----------



## frag06

Has anyone here tested push vs pull with an H220X or H240X? I have an H240X in push currently, but it's dumping a _lot_ of hot air into my case (750D) and it's raising temps considerably. I'd like to switch to pull, but not if it's going to raise temps.

I run the fans at their lowest RPM and up it to around 1100 RPM - 1300 RPM during intensive tasks (e.g. gaming, bechmarks, ect.).

Swiftech says pull is worse by a few degrees, but HTL says there is virtually no difference. I don't have the time right now to actually test it, so hearing some opinions or seeing some results would be very helpful and much appreciated.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag06*
> 
> Has anyone here tested push vs pull with an H220X or H240X? I have an H240X in push currently, but it's dumping a _lot_ of hot air into my case (750D) and it's raising temps considerably. I'd like to switch to pull, but not if it's going to raise temps.
> 
> I run the fans at their lowest RPM and up it to around 1100 RPM - 1300 RPM during intensive tasks (e.g. gaming, bechmarks, ect.).
> 
> Swiftech says pull is worse by a few degrees, but HTL says there is virtually no difference. I don't have the time right now to actually test it, so hearing some opinions or seeing some results would be very helpful and much appreciated.


You mean intake vs exhaust- push or pull isn't specific to the direction of airflow. If your case airflow isn't conducive for the H220- X fans to be in intake, I would go with exhaust- especially if the GPU is on an aircooler.


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean intake vs exhaust- push or pull isn't specific to the direction of airflow. If your case airflow isn't conducive for the H220- X fans to be in intake, I would go with exhaust- especially if the GPU is on an aircooler.


Yeah, meant intake vs exhaust.









The MSI 970 I have is currently using stock cooling, so I'm probably going to change to exhaust. All of the hot air being dumped into the case is raising the GPU temp considerably, even my motherboard temp is up by a good bit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag06*
> 
> Yeah, meant intake vs exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MSI 970 I have is currently using stock cooling, so I'm probably going to change to exhaust. All of the hot air being dumped into the case is raising the GPU temp considerably, even my motherboard temp is up by a good bit.


yeah intake only works if you have enough exhaust to get that heat it effectively


----------



## orndorf77

I am asking again because no one replied . does any one know what store online sells custom face plates for the swiftest apogee xl ? I know performance pcs sells swiftech apogee xl water blocks with custom face plates but I don't want to buy another whole swiftest apogee xl just to get a custom face plate . i want a red custom face plate with a biohazard symbol .


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> can I buy just a custom face plate for my swiftest apogee xl ? performance pcs is sellimg swiftest apogee xl water blocks with custom made face plates . since I all ready have a swiftest apogee xl do you think the will just sell me a custom face plate . I want the biohazard edition face plate but instead of it being black I want to get it in red so it matches my build . and does anyone know of another store online that will do custom face plates ?


Nope. I asked them the same question and I told them they should sell just the plates and they said it wasnt worth it. The only way to get one is to have someone make you one or you have to buy the kit and pay $15 more to get just the custom plate.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Someone recommended the Swiftech H220-X and i was wondering when it comes time to refill it, how do you go about refilling it? Also what is the possibility of it failing before the warranty is up?


----------



## VSG

There is a fill port on the side of the reservoir.


----------



## kongoslim

picture of my coolermaster setup. its 2 240l. the secondary pump/cpu block was the first one i brought and it fail. it comes on when the system has been running for an hr or after 30min of hard gaming.


----------



## orndorf77

I want a all red face plate for my swiftech apogee xl . do you think the swiftech apogee xl will look good with the swiftech apogee xl black cover plate removed and just having the red color plate installed ? or do you think I should try to get a custom red plate made ?


----------



## smithydan

Question on the h220x again, if I add a 90 degree fitting to replace the cap for the res on the h220x and cap the 90, would this be a good setup for filling and getting air out? Or would this hinder performance?

Just looking for the best solution for easiness. Thanks.


----------



## VSG

It should be fine and definitely something I am considering as well.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Finally got mine delivered yesterday and I managed to move everything into my new case.


Can you upload bigger pics?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It should be fine and definitely something I am considering as well.


Good to know I am at least thinking lol

Might have to put on another fitting as I am not sure if the opening will sit above the highest point of the res.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Good to know I am at least thinking lol
> 
> Might have to put on another fitting as I am not sure if the opening will sit above the highest point of the res.


Depending on how much room you have in the case, you can extend it or tilt the case accordingly. Expanding the H220-X is pretty fun, and definitely something I recommend doing to get your own custom loop.


----------



## Gavush

Placed my order today with frozencpu for primochill rigid tubing, fittings and some coolant and misc other stuff. I've got next week off, so should have a good bit of time to spend expanding my h240x.


----------



## tongerks

what date h220x will be launch here in the philippines?


----------



## MerkageTurk

I am having problems with my 5820k 2mins of prime 95 @ stock is reaching temps of 99c

Please sort this out


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I am having problems with my 5820k 2mins of prime 95 @ stock is reaching temps of 99c
> 
> Please sort this out


Check your mounting, check your pump is plugged in correctly, check whether the pump is puming coolant properly


----------



## MerkageTurk

∆thanks how do i check each step


----------



## MerkageTurk

Contacted swiftech directly however nobody got back to me









My temps are so do high, plus very loud noise from the pump

Regards


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Contacted swiftech directly however nobody got back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps are so do high, plus very loud noise from the pump
> 
> Regards


if you look in the reservoir window you can see the impeller when running you should be able to see it spinning if it isn't then the pump isn't spinning.... it could also be air lodged in the pump if you run it with the rad disconnected you can move it around and give it some taps on the pump if it is air trapped... first thing is to check connections...Second would be to check the above....Bram will likely help you soon if you don't get it before then


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> what date h220x will be launch here in the philippines?


JV Data in the Philippines should have these kits now. I'll try to confirm that with him today, but I do believe that they should have them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Contacted swiftech directly however nobody got back to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps are so do high, plus very loud noise from the pump
> 
> Regards


The reason no one responded is that by the time you emailed us we were already closed for the day. The best way to reach us during our off hours is in the forums. Please follow the instructions I gave you and let me know if they resolve your issue.


----------



## jerrolds

Are there any videos on how to add a GPU block to the loop? I dont think ill be updating my cpu/gpu for at least a year (i7 [email protected] is still strong) with my R9 290X (using aftermarket gelid heatsink and fujipoly extreme on VRM1) t might be a good time for me to try the next step in cooling

I already have an XSPC backplate for the 290X (originally for aesthetic reasons) but with the new H240X, watercooling might just be affordable enough for me to try.

Wanted to check out videos on what i might be getting myself into if i were to add a gpu to the 240x loop.

Hell might even do rigid tubing, Black Friday is coming up and frozen cpu has decent deals.

Hoping itll fit in a CM HAF-X case http://www.coolermaster.com/case/full-tower/haf-x/ Its kind of awkward but the top has room for 2x240mm fans..hoping i can somehow fit the rad + fans up there instead


----------



## MerkageTurk

Okay now

idle is at 50c

core voltage is 1.149

overclocked to 4ghz

20sec prime reached 92


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Okay now
> 
> idle is at 50c
> 
> core voltage is 1.149
> 
> overclocked to 4ghz
> 
> 20sec prime reached 92


What RPM reading are you getting from your motherboard for the pump speed? It should be between 1200 and 3000 RPM.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Okay now
> 
> idle is at 50c
> 
> core voltage is 1.149
> 
> overclocked to 4ghz
> 
> 20sec prime reached 92


something still isn't right but it's better...thus may seem like a stupid question but did you remove the plastic protector from the bottom of the block before you installed?


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Can you upload bigger pics?


I don't know why they don't show up full-sized in my post, they are the same pics from my system specs.

Try these:


----------



## smithydan

Thanks


----------



## MerkageTurk

Hi the speed is maxed out at 2998 or something

I have used this for my previous build and never experienced this.

May need to RMA


----------



## MerkageTurk

even at stock everything still the same


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I have used this for my previous build and never experienced this.


Just wondering, if now the H220 Intel backplate is wrong way installed?

Any pictures of the complete setup?


----------



## MerkageTurk

LGA2011-v3 x99

I do not need a backplate,

With my x79 never experienced such issue; all i did was use the same i used before. New thermal paste etc clean and now my temps seem damn high


----------



## MerkageTurk

HELP PLEASE

A little bit better stock clocks max temp 79c

which is still high,

one tube feels cold and the other warm


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I am having problems with my 5820k 2mins of prime 95 @ stock is reaching temps of 99c
> 
> Please sort this out


do you have a swiftech h220 or h220x ? how long have you had your cooler ? it mite need to be flushed . but first I would try and remount the water block and make sure you apply the thermal paste correctly and make sure the block is making good contact with the cpu . I remember the first time I mounted my swiftech apogee xl water block I put thermal paste on the cpu and mounted it and my temps were so high that I was getting a blue screen of death . I then removed the water block to re apply thermal paste and the thermal paste I put on the cpu the first time did not spread around at all because it was like my water block was not mounted at all and not making any contact with the cpu . make sure the screws on your water blocks back plate is going threw your motherboard all the way before mounting the water block . I have no experience with the x79 chipset . but I have a z97 chipset with a i7 4790k and my chip is delidid @ 4.7ghz @ 1.28v under full load in cpu-z and when I run the latest version of prime95 I think the version is 28.5 or 28.6 my max temp hits 77c when I run the older version of prime95 version 25.5 my max temp hits 64c .


----------



## MerkageTurk

I have the h220 its been over a year

I reapplied the thermal paste and checked all brackets and screws.

Still the same temperatures

Here are images


----------



## MerkageTurk

Justtested again @ stock computer shut down @98c


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Justtested again @ stock computer shut down @98c


that's never good.... hope you get this sorted ASAP..overheating is just plain scary when you drop heavy dimes on gear.... when my h80i died I was worried I had killed my chip it shutdown somewhere around 90C I think I had to change my pants but thankfully things are a lot more resilient these days.... have you been monitoring pump speeds to see if it's constant or shutting off... from what you said before with one side cold and the other warm sounds like the water isn't circulating


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's never good.... hope you get this sorted ASAP..overheating is just plain scary when you drop heavy dimes on gear.... when my h80i died I was worried I had killed my chip it shutdown somewhere around 90C I think I had to change my pants but thankfully things are a lot more resilient these days.... have you been monitoring pump speeds to see if it's constant or shutting off... from what you said before with one side cold and the other warm sounds like the water isn't circulating


I am lost for words and not sure what to do.

I am from the UK which makes it worser.

I may need a replacement if not may get a corsair and ask for a refund as the item did not last for more than a year and under eu law electronics have a two year electronic mandotary laws.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I am lost for words and not sure what to do.
> 
> I am from the UK which makes it worser.
> 
> I may need a replacement if not may get a corsair and ask for a refund as the item did not last for more than a year and under eu law electronics have a two year electronic mandotary laws.


I hope you don't have your voltage in your bios set to adaptive because this will cause the temperature to be a lot higher then it should be . make sure you have your voltage in your bios set to manual or automatic . some motherboards have there voltage set to adaptive by default


----------



## MerkageTurk

It has nothing to do with the cpu or voltage or motherboard, the problem lies within thr cooler.

Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


----------



## tongerks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> JV Data in the Philippines should have these kits now. I'll try to confirm that with him today, but I do believe that they should have them.


where i can find jv data here? what is there complete company name? thanks for the response.


----------



## benbenkr

When will the H240x be in stock again on the Swiftech website? Been wanting to buy, but I keep missing my chance for some reason lol.


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> When will the H240x be in stock again on the Swiftech website? Been wanting to buy, but I keep missing my chance for some reason lol.


Same, I've been checking stock on their website and FrozenCPU.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the cpu or voltage or motherboard, the problem lies within thr cooler.
> 
> Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


The only way i could forsee this happening is if the water wasnt circulating either through a blockage or pump failure... on the h220x its easy to see pump failure because you can see the impellar working.. not so easy on the h220...with pump failure typically you can go into bios and see the temps rise consistantly until overheated... with the little baby load the bios puts on the system this should never happen if your pump was working but like i said could be blockage.... if it was mine i would be taking it apart but if you wanted it waranteed this is NOT the way to go


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys I have my H240-X not installed yet. Was wondering should I use the stock fans that come with it, or should I buy a set of other fans?

It will be in a Enthoo Luxe case. And I don't plan on expanding.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


That's expected for cooling systems.. one side is cold intake, the other is warm exhaust. Still though, you should not be seeing more than 2-3°C of temperature difference between the tubes given the flow-rates and large heat capacity of water.


----------



## Someone09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


When I was on my custom loop I experienced something similar. The reason was that my CPU block was junked up and basically blocked the whole flow through the loop.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Swiftech service is not great too with in the uk now im stuck without my new build

Thanks everyone

May go corsair


----------



## johnnyw

Does anyone have 220-X installed to Bitfenix Prodigy or Phenom (ITX ) or just know for sure if it fits or not. I dont use optical drive so it would be no problem to remove the 5.25" bay.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Does anyone have 220-X installed to Bitfenix Prodigy or Phenom (ITX ) or just know for sure if it fits or not. I dont use optical drive so it would be no problem to remove the 5.25" bay.


It will fit easy.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys I have my H240-X not installed yet. Was wondering should I use the stock fans that come with it, or should I buy a set of other fans?
> 
> It will be in a Enthoo Luxe case. And I don't plan on expanding.


Stock fans are good or you can get some phanteks 140XPs


----------



## MerkageTurk

Swiftech customer service is rubbish

Contacted retailer they said they don't have it in stock

Swiftech are not getting back to me i want a full refund

Going corsair


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Going corsair


That's one heck of a downgrade.....talk about falling off a cliff.......


----------



## MerkageTurk

Atleast they have a good customer service in the uk

Swiftech do not even respond to emails, due to time difference

If i was in the US and A then ofcourse its good

However i am in the uk.

I want something to work, not heat my brand new cpu up 100 or so degrees


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Atleast they have a good customer service in the uk
> 
> Swiftech do not even respond to emails, due to time difference
> 
> If i was in the US and A then ofcourse its good
> 
> However i am in the uk.
> 
> I want something to work, not heat my brand new cpu up 100 or so degrees


Please. I'm in Australia and have exactly the same sort of support level from timezone difference. I contacted Bryan (BramSLI1) and he got me all the information I wanted regarding my order, namely that USPS are being useless and still haven't delivered on an order despatched in August!. Yes, three months.

Thank you for showing exactly how much of an entitled, impatient twit you are.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> It will fit easy.


Looking at pics would say it should fit too, but still would be nice to get confirmation from someone who actually has those.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Are there any videos/tutorials on how to add a GPU block to the loop? I dont think ill be updating my cpu/gpu for at least a year (i7 [email protected] is still strong) with my R9 290X (using aftermarket gelid heatsink and fujipoly extreme on VRM1) t might be a good time for me to try the next step in cooling
> 
> I already have an XSPC backplate for the 290X (originally for aesthetic reasons) but with the new H240X, watercooling might just be affordable enough for me to try.
> 
> Wanted to check out videos on what i might be getting myself into if i were to add a gpu to the 240x loop.
> 
> Hell might even do rigid tubing, Black Friday is coming up and frozen cpu has decent deals.
> 
> Hoping itll fit in a CM HAF-X case http://www.coolermaster.com/case/full-tower/haf-x/ Its kind of awkward but the top has room for 2x240mm fans..hoping i can somehow fit the rad + fans up there instead


Im just gonna bump this, hope thats ok - the thread was flooded with tech support questions the last day or so


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> where i can find jv data here? what is there complete company name? thanks for the response.


Email me at [email protected] and I'll send you the information that I have for them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> When will the H240x be in stock again on the Swiftech website? Been wanting to buy, but I keep missing my chance for some reason lol.


These will be back in stock again in the next couple of weeks. You need to purchase yours quickly because they do go pretty fast.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Im just gonna bump this, hope thats ok - the thread was flooded with tech support questions the last day or so


This kit will fit in a HAF-X without an issue. There is more than enough room above the motherboard for the radiator and fans. Go to YouTube and look up H220 Expansion. You'll find a video there that we did on how to expand the H220 to include a water cooled GPU. It's not the exact same kit, but the process is quite similar. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Why is Swiftech not responding to my emails or my problem,

This company service is not what i expected.

I told you either RMA or give my full refund or i may seek legal action under EU law


----------



## MerkageTurk

DO NOT BUY SWIFTECH, IF YOU ARE WITHIN THE UK

AWFUL CUSTOMER SERVICE, TRYING TO AVOID ME


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the cpu or voltage or motherboard, the problem lies within thr cooler.
> 
> Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


Sounds as if either your pump failed or you have a restriction in the block


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sounds as if either your pump failed or you have a restriction in the block


Thanks why am I not getting a response from Swiftech?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Why is Swiftech not responding to my emails or my problem,
> 
> This company service is not what i expected.
> 
> I told you either RMA or give my full refund or i may seek legal action under EU law


If you need help pm the guy above your post bran sli1. I know your mad and frustrated but yelling and getting mad isn't going to solve anything


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Thanks why am I not getting a response from Swiftech?


Personal message bramsli1 his name is right above one of your post. He helps a lot. Sometimes you can't get a response right away


----------



## MerkageTurk

I already did that

He is avoiding me


----------



## MerkageTurk

Wow Swiftech got back to me thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Wow Swiftech got back to me thanks


I've been rather busy this morning with some other projects.


----------



## MerkageTurk

I understand Thanks +rep


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Wow Swiftech got back to me thanks


see patience is a virtue


----------



## Lew666

Hi guys I am struggling to set this up correctly. Could anyone with an Asus rampage board direct me to the exact cpu slots as I am getting cpu error.also how do u mount normal 120mm fans on the bottom help is appreciated.


----------



## MerkageTurk

^put it in the CPU 4 pin and not the Channel

or go to bios ignore f1

Are you getting CPU FAN ERROR?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lew666*
> 
> Hi guys I am struggling to set this up correctly. Could anyone with an Asus rampage board direct me to the exact cpu slots as I am getting cpu error.also how do u mount normal 120mm fans on the bottom help is appreciated.


h220x H240-X or H220? H220X and H240X should plug 4 pin pump into the supplied pwm splitter in port 1 and two fans into port 2 and 3... then connect said splitter to cpu_fan...


----------



## Lew666

Sorry 220x


----------



## Lew666

Ye cpu fan error also would these work better than the stock fans

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000rpm-pwm-high-performance-fan


----------



## MerkageTurk

Hi just check my swiftech h220 and its really warm i mean really hot to touch the pump


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> It has nothing to do with the cpu or voltage or motherboard, the problem lies within thr cooler.
> 
> Why is one tube warm and the other cold?


why don't you rma your cooler . you only had it for a little over a year I think it has a 3 year warranty .


----------



## cephelix

And anyways if you haven't touched it in a year, i.e. left it stock, there is a chance that your tubes and pump are gunked up as well


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lew666*
> 
> Ye cpu fan error also would these work better than the stock fans
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000rpm-pwm-high-performance-fan


that error occurs when the motherboard isn't getting a signal from the cpu fan header... it's a safety feature that's supposed to keep you from toasting your cpu.... make sure the four pin connector from pump is connected to pump and slot 1 on the splitter swiftech provided... then connect the fans to any of the other slots 2 and 3 work easiest.. then connect splitter 4 pin to cpu_fan not cpu _ opt... some motherboards can use cpu opt instead but cpu_fan always gets priority....don't forget the sata connector for power to the pump







... as for the fans you might see a degree or two difference but the Swiftech fans do a good job


----------



## MerkageTurk

Thanks everyone

Hopefully Swiftech sort me out

In the mean time, just got an h110 as i need the pc for work


----------



## Gavush

Try having a problem with a nzxt kraken x61. I had a fan mechanical issue (noise) and a pump electrical issue (lighting problem) and a software issue (incorrect temps within cam software) and they said since I had a software issue they referred to an online forum where you post the issue you have. I think I got a reply on there two weeks later that said oh if you have mechanical issues just rma it and we will send you another. Way too late as I had rma'd it for refund a couple of days after the post and decided to wait until the h240x came out. Well worth the wait.


----------



## MerkageTurk

To be honest they still responded, however i was impatient.

Saw my temps reach sky high worried me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lew666*
> 
> Ye cpu fan error also would these work better than the stock fans
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000rpm-pwm-high-performance-fan


Check and make sure your pump is connected if you're getting a CPU fan error. You'll also get a CPU fan error though if you don't have anything connected to the CPU fan header. I can't tell you anything about those fans though because I've only used either Helix fans or the stock fans that come with the case that I'm using.


----------



## Lew666

Well do I have to use that little pwm thing cause that's what I am using. So the pump connects to cpu fan and what about the 1 on the block itself. ? All satas are connected. I'll disconnect all my wires tomorrow. Sorry for being a little stupid with this but this is a brand new board I Brought to. That's y I have no idea about it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lew666*
> 
> Well do I have to use that little pwm thing cause that's what I am using. So the pump connects to cpu fan and what about the 1 on the block itself. ? All satas are connected. I'll disconnect all my wires tomorrow. Sorry for being a little stupid with this but this is a brand new board I Brought to. That's y I have no idea about it.


the one on the block is for the led in the block it can be connected to any fan header... the pump should be connected to the splitter and the splitter to the mobo


----------



## Lew666

Okay well ill investigate tomorrow i was just all over the place earlier. new board an new cooler an so many places these things fit lol.

I need a guide for dummy's lol.


----------



## Lew666

Any pictures lol ill let u all know if I manage to work it out lol. At work for another 6 hours then sleep for six an try an get my pc up again lol


----------



## MerkageTurk

Watch YouTube videos on h220x or what ever version you have for an installation guide or follow the manual


----------



## Gavush

Parts are in! Should have my h240x expansion done sometime next week. (edit) well balls, just noticed I'm missing two parts from my order. will have to get with FCPU tomorrow!


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Alright guys, I am going with a H240x and I want to add room for my two GTX Titans in the loop. What do you guys think about just adding 1 additional 240mm rad to the loop? From what you guys are saying is the Pump should be able to handle the extra rad and the graphics cards. I am hoping that I just would need the 1 additional 240mm rad. I am going to throw the same fans on the new rad probably as well.


----------



## Gavush

Just FYI, tho 2x gpu +240 rad seems possible and probably will be fine seeing how plenty others with h220x have made similar loops, when discussing this loop with a H240x according to Brian from Swiftech:

"This pump should just be able to handle that. You're getting close the limits of what this pump is capable of though."


----------



## Lew666

H220x in. Working fine idle temps of 35oc with i7 3930k at stock. An it's fairly quiet to. Any software to monitor and adjust speeds or you guys use the board?


----------



## Lew666

Also were would you guys recommend mounting the pwm splitter on a c70 case?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Thanks Gavush! I will think about this now... Maybe I should Frankenstein 2 H240Xs together.........


----------



## MerkageTurk

I just got a corsair H110 and until RMA is done by Swiftech, nothing since yesterday thou

Idle temps 9c
Max temps 27c
using H110

using xmp profile


----------



## jerrolds

Anyone try rigid tubing with the H220X or H240X? With a rad/pump/cpu block - it might be the cheapest way for me to get into watercooling - just need an XSPC block for my 290X (already have the backplate) and some tubing


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Anyone try rigid tubing with the H220X or H240X? With a rad/pump/cpu block - it might be the cheapest way for me to get into watercooling - just need an XSPC block for my 290X (already have the backplate) and some tubing


Have you seen this 



?


----------



## Gavush

I should have my loop together by the end of next week (FX-8350 and 7970x2 + 240rad) so I should be able to report back how well it works. As of yet I don't think anyone else has done it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I should have my loop together by the end of next week (FX-8350 and 7970x2 + 240rad) so I should be able to report back how well it works. As of yet I don't think anyone else has done it.


To my knowledge Anthony Reynolds is the first to use hard-line tubing with this kit.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I should have my loop together by the end of next week (FX-8350 and 7970x2 + 240rad) so I should be able to report back how well it works. As of yet I don't think anyone else has done it.


I guess I will get the popcorn out until you are done lol. I am hoping I can keep everything at around 65C or less is my goal!

I think it is really awesome that we have a Swiftech rep on the forums BTW


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> To my knowledge Anthony Reynolds is the first to use hard-line tubing with this kit.


Cool - I just did a websearch and found the Tech of Tomorrow facebook page / youtube videos. Yeah, looks like he just published a H220 + single GPU build w/ hard lines Nov. 16th. I was more talking about a 2x gpu / 240rad w/ a h240x. I like what he did tho, gives me some inspiration for my pump to CPU line.


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Parts are in! Should have my h240x expansion done sometime next week. (edit) well balls, just noticed I'm missing two parts from my order. will have to get with FCPU tomorrow!


I just ordered a bunch of parts from FCPU too. Most of what I ordered was received, but they shorted me 4 sets of screws (they sent a single screw) and an 8-way PWM Splitter







Not sure what's up here, but it's odd for them.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag06*
> 
> I just ordered a bunch of parts from FCPU too. Most of what I ordered was received, but they shorted me 4 sets of screws (they sent a single screw) and an 8-way PWM Splitter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what's up here, but it's odd for them.


When I called them this morning he suggested they had some new staff in the warehouse that was still getting the hang of things. I was missing the swiftech G1/4 pump adapter and a G/14 3/8" fill port barb. If I flexed my box _just right_ I could see where it they might could had slipped out under the bottom flap, but it seems unlikely. I completely unfurled the 40' of brown packing paper while searching. What a mess. Also to clarify, I already had the water blocks and additional radiator. I ordered the bridge, coolant, tubing, fittings and some O-rings.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Hey Gavush, what 240 rad did you go with? Did you get a swiftech one? And the fans for the new rad? I was thinking of using the same ones as the H240X. What is your plan?


----------



## Gavush

Radiator.. chosen because it was cheap. I was the only bidder on a used swiftech MCR220 QP on ebay that turned out to be an XP rather than a QP - which was fine with me because I was settling for the QP due to the low price - it was $26 shipped. My option B would have been a newer, slightly smaller 220 rad from another manufacturer (@ 176mm vs 180) With the 180mm I will be mounting it in the floor of my case rather than the front b/c I'd rather not modify the case to fit the radiator when it'll work fine on the floor.

My main strategy was to have low system restriction to make the most of pump I was workijng with. I am going to plumb the system in a cascade from the pump to the top of the CPU, out of the CPU into the top of the GPU bridge, then out of the bottom of the GPU bridge to the radiator on the bottom of the case, then back up to the return on the H240x. The main 280 radiator is horizontal, the 240 will be horizontal as well such that gravity does not work against the coolant going up and down in the radiator. With this design gravity will be helping the flow through the waterblocks and the return up to the top is the least restrictive part of the whole circuit. I chose a parallel GPU block for less restriction as well. I chose the rigid tubing not only for it's great looks and clean impression, but also so that I didn't have to use any 90-degree fittings.

(yes, there is a lot of debate as to loop order, and even if cpu, rad, gpu, rad would be a degree more efficient, I'm not worried about it)

I'm going to use the xigmatek XAF-1255 120 fans I already have and mount them on the back side of the 240 radiator as pull fans only, and I actually plan to reverse the 140 fans on the 280 to vent ouf of the top of the case for dust control. I'd like to other fans in the future but these will have to work for now. (they're a little noisy, which I was fine with a couple of years ago but I'm moving more toward a quiet system)

Keep in mind that I'm no expert by any means, this is my first watercooled loop. I've just put a lot of thought / logic into it and will see what happens. I'm actually going to have about $200 into the whole loop because I was given the H240x (thanks Swiftech!) and I bought two used 7970 cards with stock reference coolers, waterblocks and backplates for about $40 more than the current market price on the cards alone. (I'm glad I switched them back to air to get tested and sorted out tho b/c I had some driver issues and had to go in and out with them quite a few times!)


----------



## jerrolds

Will the H240X work with it mounted along the bottom? Hopefully with the acrylic window facing outward?



Thinking of getting this Silverstone RAVEN RV02-E case, which is different in that it rotates the motherboard 90degrees so the backside is pointed up, and the window is actually on the right side of the case


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Nice! I am contemplating having a separate loop altogether for the GPUs which is what I wanted to avoid in the first place lol.


----------



## Gavush

I might do a dual loop eventually because I think it would be fun to do a dual bay dual reservoir with two colors if coolant. I watched a couple of pumps on ebay but ultimately only had the $ to get what I've got.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Will the H240X work with it mounted along the bottom? Hopefully with the acrylic window facing outward?


The unit must not be mounted up-side down with the pump above the radiator.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I might do a dual loop eventually because I think it would be fun to do a dual bay dual reservoir with two colors if coolant. I watched a couple of pumps on ebay but ultimately only had the $ to get what I've got.


Yeah I have seen those and they look awesome. Hey does anyone know if it would be safe to add another pump in the same loop as the H240X?


----------



## orndorf77

I just received a red acrylic biohazard edition face plate for my swiftech apogee xl


how does it make my build look ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Yeah I have seen those and they look awesome. Hey does anyone know if it would be safe to add another pump in the same loop as the H240X?


Yes, you can add another pump to the kit. It will just enhance the flow rate and also add redundancy if one of the pumps were to fail.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Awesome looking build orndorf77

Thanks Mr. Bram! That I think is my plan. I believe dual 280 Rads will be enough cooling power for 4770K and also SLI graphics cards. I will throw another pump in there as well. I am in a CM Storm Stryker case, now that I think about it I will have to check if a 280 rad fits on the bottom lol


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Awesome looking build orndorf77
> 
> Thanks Mr. Bram! That I think is my plan. I believe dual 280 Rads will be enough cooling power for 4770K and also SLI graphics cards. I will throw another pump in there as well. I am in a CM Storm Stryker case, now that I think about it I will have to check if a 280 rad fits on the bottom lol


thanks


----------



## Comp4k

I've set stock alerts on FrozenCPU and Performance PCs, also checking Swiftech's website religiously for H240-X stock.

This is one hot item!

Looks like there is an abundance of H220-X stock which is a shame- wish it was the other way around.


----------



## Lew666

highflow.nl is were i got my 220x from they are due 240xs soon


----------



## orndorf77

which swiftech apogee xl face plate makes my build look better ? A or B

A.

B.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

B, I like the red, it is a nice contrast considering the majority of the interior is already black in color


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> B, I like the red, it is a nice contrast considering the majority of the interior is already black in color


Yeah, I like the contrast made by the red face plate.


----------



## emsj86

Just a note order of part at doesn't matter. Just make sure res feeds the pump where it won't run dry. The liquid moves so fast doesn't matter of you go gpu cpu than rads


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just received a red acrylic biohazard edition face plate for my swiftech apogee xl
> 
> 
> how does it make my build look ?


How you mean you received??? Someone made that or you give someone to finish that for you...
I want this... my will be nicest of all.


----------



## kt6999

hey guys!,I have a problem with my h220 pump. my pump dosent always turn on during boot, only a few times, the cpu then sits at 86c,tried unplugging the pwm connector to force 100% but it looks like it dosent have power
Edit:have tried different sata connectors and still dosent work
Edit 2:when it does turn on its quite loud and some times the pump dosent kick in till windows is booted


----------



## MerkageTurk

Still no response from Swiftech apart from Bram whom is amazing,


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys im about to do my h240-x installtion. I found some arctic silver 5 TIM lying around, probably from years ago. Should I use this thermal paste or the stock one provided?


----------



## zila

The kit comes with Tim Mate 2, that's good stuff.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys im about to do my h240-x installtion. I found some arctic silver 5 TIM lying around, probably from years ago. Should I use this thermal paste or the stock one provided?


I wouldn't use old paste ever.... paste is pretty cheap and using old stuff is asking for temp issues and headaches


----------



## shadow85

Ok no worries, I never done a water AIO setup before, wish me luck.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Still no response from Swiftech apart from Bram whom is amazing,


you do realize how small swiftech is right ?

the ONLY person you would get a response from is bram. **99% of the time unless gabe felt he needs to contact you for some reason and / or the engineer

he is the CS rep


----------



## shadow85

Is it ok to connect the H240-X PWM HUB to the CPU_Fan2 on the x99 Gaming 7?


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do realize how small swiftech is right ?
> 
> the ONLY person you would get a response from is bram. **99% of the time unless gabe felt he needs to contact you for some reason and / or the engineer
> 
> he is the CS rep


Thanks, but i meant there rma department.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Thanks, but i meant there rma department.


What exactly do you think support means? Bryan is the guy who helps out with RMA also once Gabe, the owner, approves it. It's not a thousand employee company.


----------



## CoolProject

hello guys, where can I buy in Europe Glacer 360L?


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What exactly do you think support means? Bryan is the guy who helps out with RMA also once Gabe, the owner, approves it. It's not a thousand employee company.


They have a different department for the UK.


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> The unit must not be mounted up-side down with the pump above the radiator.


What will happen if I do mount pump above the rad?

Same as earlier poster, I am using RV02 and I thought I could leave the H220X or H140X on the bottom of the casing.









I saw Linustechtip claims he tested setting the pump above rad, and there was no change in performance.

I hope Swiftech can clarify their internal research on this matter.

I could live with a little louder pump noise/air bubble if it meant I could use the awesomeness of H220X/140X on RV02


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> What will happen if I do mount pump above the rad?
> 
> Same as earlier poster, I am using RV02 and I thought I could leave the H220X or H140X on the bottom of the casing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw Linustechtip claims he tested setting the pump above rad, and there was no change in performance.
> 
> I hope Swiftech can clarify their internal research on this matter.
> 
> I could live with a little louder pump noise/air bubble if it meant I could use the awesomeness of H220X/140X on RV02


Air in the pump means that the pump will freewheel and overheat, which is why you can't mount it upside down.


----------



## Gavush

It will be the highest point of the system and any air in the system will go right to the pump. The pump doesn't pump air, it pumps fluid. If it runs dry, it will be ruined.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> It will be the highest point of the system and any air in the system will go right to the pump. The pump doesn't pump air, it pumps fluid. If it runs dry, it will be ruined.


it won't be highest point if mounted in the bottom if I remember correctly it was because it tends to trap air in there... Would be interesting to see if a properly bled unit could be mounted that way by that i man bled upright then inverted... However you would have to check coolant daily and top off as soon as any coolant evapped..but I wouldn't dare try it with mine I'm poor










I considered getting a shroud for bottom fan and run push/pull with 220x in bottom but I didn't figure it would help temps would probably hurt it actually


----------



## dansi

Noooo...it seems I can only get Glacier instead. As the H220 is no longer in sales? Glacier has louder un-braided fans.









But but what if I tilt the H220X pump side a little upwards around 20-35 degrees? Will that help?

RV02 actually works ok for bottom placement of AIO rads, but H220X don't like it...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Noooo...it seems I can only get Glacier instead. As the H220 is no longer in sales? Glacier has louder un-braided fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But but what if I tilt the H220X pump side a little upwards around 20-35 degrees? Will that help?
> 
> RV02 actually works ok for bottom placement of AIO rads, but H220X don't like it...


not sure on that swiftech documentation shows 45 as OK not sure what angle it becomes a no no


----------



## LeandroJVarini

First I apologize that my English is pretty bad!

Second my intention is to help everyone here and not to defame the brand, including own brand to know what is happening with your product!

Third Love Swiftech all my WC always had brand products, always trusted and I will continue to trust!

I tried for one month buy H220x the brand website but was always out of stock

So I bought on ebay paid more expensive but was the product in hand!

When we arrived I pulled out the NZXT x60 and put the h220x to turn on it to pump let out a very loud noise and was not air bubbles, something seemed scraping internally.

I contacted by email with Bryan R. of Swiftech support that quickly answered my email, giving tips to solve the problem, tips that had already done and to no avail.

Then one morning and according'll call my loop to surprise the reservoir is all dirty on the inside, with a very ugly color.

I sent a photo and answer to it and did not get back I said in the email that would open the system and see what was happening.

No return I decided to check, I'm not noob in WC have ability with it, and see how was my system.

dirt after a week of noise at the pump, it scared more than the noise of the pump!



The dirt was pasty and sticky, some grainy, some white spots did not come out, I had to make an effort to get to pump blades










Some dirt reminds the resin that is used in the pump housing



Another question is why the pump magnet is all worn this way? My other pumps Swiftech never came so...



Other issues that I would question is the quality of "Screw drain" which is in the acrylic to withdraw try to turn it simply broke! the acrylic to screw appeared some grooves that without tightening it completely! the acrylic to screw appeared some grooves that without tightening it completely! and the screws holding the pump in the reservoir and holding the reservoir radiator dusted in the first grip!



now to unwind guetto mod LOL - Led + transparent tape + red pen (brush) (at least it should be LOL), equal to the new color!






Tip: Swifitech colorful acrylic sale to the reservoir and the sale! as well as for block (different types)! the users would like to buy!

Just I posted to the brand know that had this problem, yet I am not sad or nervous about it, but sharing what you hear me, I hope it is different from a certain brand of WC parts that invez to take that problem had tried intimidate the user who shared the problem.

I ask again apologize for my bad English!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What exactly do you think support means? Bryan is the guy who helps out with RMA also once Gabe, the owner, approves it. It's not a thousand employee company.
> 
> 
> 
> They have a different department for the UK.
Click to expand...

they do not have any other dept

there is a DISTRIBUTOR in the uk, meaning a _*different company*_


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they do not have any other dept
> 
> there is a DISTRIBUTOR in the uk, meaning a _*different company*_


That's correct. It is a different company. Our warranty and RMA support in the UK is handled by a company named Bacata out of France.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they do not have any other dept
> 
> there is a DISTRIBUTOR in the uk, meaning a _*different company*_


And? what difference does it make?

I also meant another person (department) deals with the rma process here in the UK, I have the email from Bryan.


----------



## Gavush

Is it possible to replace the h220x or h240x MCP30 with a pump like the MCP50? Are the mountings the same? As though the reservoir has a built in pump top?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they do not have any other dept
> 
> there is a DISTRIBUTOR in the uk, meaning a _*different company*_
> 
> 
> 
> And? what difference does it make?
> 
> I also meant another person (department) deals with the rma process here in the UK, I have the email from Bryan.
Click to expand...

in this post when i state the word gabe i also mean switftech

you are expecting to have gabe, order another company around that he does NOT own, and has 0 controlling interest,

that is the difference, it would be like me coming to you and stating you can no longer eat meat,

would you stop eating meat just because i told you to stop ?

at the very best gabe can request they do better, but even that may not be listened to


----------



## MerkageTurk

okay well you just proved my point, the RMA within the UK is far more difficult compared to the likes of US and A


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Is it possible to replace the h220x or h240x MCP30 with a pump like the MCP50? Are the mountings the same? As though the reservoir has a built in pump top?


The MCP50X can be used to upgrade the pump in the X kits. Doing so though will void your warranty for the pump and the kit.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Acrylic conversion with EK Full Cover on Crosshair V. Hard to see the 220x because its not on. But look closely



Thread for this with temp performance. So far its doing fairly well (actually surprising well). Will update throughout the week as I run more tests.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1526026/h220x-acrylic-conversion-full-cover-block


----------



## choLOL

Has anyone tried doing an h220x loop with the cpu, the rad-res-pump combo, 1 gpu (r9 280x), 1 additional 240mm rad, and the water cooling adapter on the Asrock Z77 OC Formula (or similar boards)? I wanna do this but I'm not sure if the pump can handle the restriction.


----------



## VSG

It will handle it just fine (unless you get super restrictive elements). Look at the MCP50X review in my sig and see the performance (from 3000 rpm and down for the pump on the H220-X) of the pump. I am midway through an expansion setup myself for the H220-X review and it's handling everything I throw at it at 1 GPM or higher.


----------



## benbenkr

Welp for mini-ITX guys, the H140x is here to save your day: http://www.swiftech.com/H140-X.aspx


----------



## Gavush

geggeg, would you dare remove the pump and use the mcp50x pump top and run the same tests on the mcp30 so we can have actual performance numbers to compare?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> geggeg, would you dare remove the pump and use the mcp50x pump top and run the same tests on the mcp30 so we can have actual performance numbers to compare?


Nothing to dare there, I can easily do it. You would get maybe 0.2-0.3 GPM more but the sound levels increase a lot more when going at those speeds. What about doing a quick test on the expanded loop with the two pumps at 100% to see? My expanded loop is not very restrictive and the blocks are high flow type (as in, not a lot of benefit expected going from, say, 1 GPM to 1.2 GPM) but still I think a single set of comparisons would be worth it to provide some data to go by instead of just guessing. It will delay the review out though.


----------



## VSG

On a side note, anyone know what wrench size can be used to remove the existing fittings from the CPU block? I did the expansion with the existing fittings but would like to take it out if possible to demonstrate it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Welp for mini-ITX guys, the H140x is here to save your day: http://www.swiftech.com/H140-X.aspx


meh at current time 120mm is far better ( fans wise )


----------



## emsj86

From the help of people here I went from an expanded glacer 240l to this. Just waiting on a backplate and mini valve drain to be added


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Acrylic conversion with EK Full Cover on Crosshair V. Hard to see the 220x because its not on. But look closely
> 
> 
> 
> Thread for this with temp performance. So far its doing fairly well (actually surprising well). Will update throughout the week as I run more tests.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526026/h220x-acrylic-conversion-full-cover-block


Is this an and build bc I have amd and can't find blocks for the mobo anywhere


----------



## Mega Man

crosshair v is easy

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> crosshair v is easy
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html


yeah you would think with the widespread love for the sabertooth it would have had blocks made as well... but.. alas no dice


----------



## MerkageTurk

Still no update from the EU department of RMA.

Bryan help me


----------



## VSG

Dude there is no EU department. In Europe, warranty for the first 1-2 years (depending on the item) is done via the retailer/distributor and not the manufacturer. So Swiftech can only do so much.


----------



## MerkageTurk

^ yes i meant that lol


----------



## VSG

Hopefully it works out for you soon, it's hard to rely on 3rd party for RMA.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is this an and build bc I have amd and can't find blocks for the mobo anywhere


Yes, it is an AMD build. In my thread I have links to all the parts. This CPU block wasnt my first choice. I was going to use the Swiftech Apogee XL. Since that block comes with the H220X, I wanted to stick to a basic expansion and tubing swap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> crosshair v is easy
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html


^Mega Man is right and thats the block. Your best bet is to just go to coolingconfigurator.com (its EK's site for finding parts that fit). However, be careful and make sure if youre going to have a mobo block and a cpu block that they are the same manufacturer. I didnt use the Swiftech block because it wouldnt fit next to the EK Full Cover block. If you have any specific questions you can PM me as well.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Still no update from the EU department of RMA.
> 
> Bryan help me


I'm sorry that you haven't heard back from them yet. I've tried contacting them this morning as well and haven't heard anything yet. I'm sorry about this, but there really isn't much that I can from here.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Okay no problem, I guess I have to use my corsair for time being


----------



## shadow85

Im having trouble removing the screws from the backplate of my H240-X. I have already badly striped 2 of the screws, now I am on my way to get a screw extractor, will this work or is it a bad idea?


----------



## VSG

Ah man that's one of my few issues with the units. I am going to cover it in the review with pics and words.

Make sure that the hexagon shaped things on the underside of the backplate under each screw is lined up inside the backplate so that the flat surfaces are next to each other. I realize that's confusing so will put up pics tomorrow. If you set this right and pull on the backplate away from the block, then whatever screws extractor you are using should help. A dab of WD-40 would help too if there's actual resistance to the screws.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is this an and build bc I have amd and can't find blocks for the mobo anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it is an AMD build. In my thread I have links to all the parts. This CPU block wasnt my first choice. I was going to use the Swiftech Apogee XL. Since that block comes with the H220X, I wanted to stick to a basic expansion and tubing swap.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> crosshair v is easy
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^Mega Man is right and thats the block. Your best bet is to just go to coolingconfigurator.com (its EK's site for finding parts that fit). *However, be careful and make sure if youre going to have a mobo block and a cpu block that they are the same manufacturer*. I didnt use the Swiftech block because it wouldnt fit next to the EK Full Cover block. If you have any specific questions you can PM me as well.
Click to expand...

why wont it all other blocks fit np

mine sits fine next to my apogee hd.

as to the bold why ?


----------



## shadow85

How far are the washers meant to go up the screw on the H240X when installing 2011, because they are not going very far up and it is a pain to install amd screw the block in.


----------



## shadow85

There are two 4-pins coming out the pump, where do they connect? Do they both go on the hub that came with the h240-x?


----------



## Chipicao

Could someone please explain why my tubing has turned purple after just 10 days?
 

I used PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 ID - 5/8 OD - Crystal Clear - PFLEXA-58
and EK-Ekoolant CLEAR premix
Could this be related to the 220X or is it something else?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Could someone please explain why my tubing has turned purple after just 10 days?
> 
> I used PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 ID - 5/8 OD - Crystal Clear - PFLEXA-58
> and EK-Ekoolant CLEAR premix
> Could this be related to the 220X or is it something else?


do you have a lot of red or purple leds?


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> do you have a lot of red or purple leds?


No LEDs, the whole system is turned off in those pictures.

I didn't rinse any of the components before refilling, could that be it? I just assumed since the kit was new it should have been clean already.


----------



## choLOL

Bram, do you know when the H220x will be available in southeast Asia? I can't seem to find any retailer here who has the H220x in store.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> No LEDs, the whole system is turned off in those pictures.
> 
> I didn't rinse any of the components before refilling, could that be it? I just assumed since the kit was new it should have been clean already.


Being that the coolant that we use in these kits does have a very slight amount of dye in it this could be the reason since you didn't bother to rinse anything out prior to refilling. I can't think of what else it could be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Bram, do you know when the H220x will be available in southeast Asia? I can't seem to find any retailer here who has the H220x in store.


I don't have any information on that. If you can't find it at a reseller in your area then you may have to purchase it either from us directly or from one of our US resellers that sell overseas.


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Being that the coolant that we use in these kits does have a very slight amount of dye in it this could be the reason since you didn't bother to rinse anything out prior to refilling. I can't think of what else it could be.


Thank you for clarifying. The original coolant seemed transparent when I poured it out, but maybe I missed it.

I'll try to refill it and see how it goes. Do you think I should rinse it now, or was my first refill enough to clean the system?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Thank you for clarifying. The original coolant seemed transparent when I poured it out, but maybe I missed it.
> 
> I'll try to refill it and see how it goes. Do you think I should rinse it now, or was my first refill enough to clean the system?


It should be fine other than the dyed tubing. I don't think it would be necessary to rinse it out at this point.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Still nothing from the distribution for my RMA


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> Thank you for clarifying. The original coolant seemed transparent when I poured it out, but maybe I missed it.
> 
> I'll try to refill it and see how it goes. Do you think I should rinse it now, or was my first refill enough to clean the system?


There is a slight blue tint to the coolant.


----------



## Comp4k

IN STOCK TODAY!

Just bought it from Swiftech's website. Shipping is a bit steep though =/ I live 2 hours away from their HQ and it costs $11 @[email protected]

PerformancePCs is getting their shipment soon and they have a discount code for 6% off, use TGIVING14-7.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Still nothing from the distribution for my RMA


Do me a favor. Email that contact I gave you again and cc me in the email. Just explain to him that you've been trying to reach him and that you'd like to get this taken care of as soon as possible.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is a slight blue tint to the coolant.


shallow ocean blue


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do me a favor. Email that contact I gave you again and cc me in the email. Just explain to him that you've been trying to reach him and that you'd like to get this taken care of as soon as possible.


Dear Bryan

I am really sorry for being a nuisance I really appreciate your commitment and products.

Thank you for your help, now patience is a virtue.









+rep


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why wont it all other blocks fit np
> 
> mine sits fine next to my apogee hd.
> 
> as to the bold why ?


Regarding what you put in bold: I advise to have the same manufacturer for full cover block and cpu block because that is the way you can guarantee correct fitting. The Swiftech Apogee XL block does not fit on the Crosshair V Formula -Z motherboard with the EK Full cover block. I had to learn that the hard way. When you stay with the same manufacturer they usually make sure their blocks fit next to each other.

Are you saying that you have an EK Full Cover Block on the Crosshair V Formula -Z motherboard with the Swiftech Apogee XL block? If so, post pictures pleas. The AMD bracket for the Apogee XL interfered with the EK block too much. I either had to cut the corner of the Apogee AMD bracket and eliminate that bottom screw (which means the block wont be sitting evenly on the CPU or I had to put the corner of the bracket under the EK block; making the EK block unable to be fully screwed down. Unacceptable.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Dear Bryan
> 
> I am really sorry for being a nuisance I really appreciate your commitment and products.
> 
> Thank you for your help, now patience is a virtue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


No problem. I understand how frustrating it can be though when you're waiting to get something taken care of. I'm sure that you'll hear from him soon.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Regarding what you put in bold: I advise to have the same manufacturer for full cover block and cpu block because that is the way you can guarantee correct fitting. The Swiftech Apogee XL block does not fit on the Crosshair V Formula -Z motherboard with the EK Full cover block. I had to learn that the hard way. When you stay with the same manufacturer they usually make sure their blocks fit next to each other.
> 
> Are you saying that you have an EK Full Cover Block on the Crosshair V Formula -Z motherboard with the Swiftech Apogee XL block? If so, post pictures pleas. The AMD bracket for the Apogee XL interfered with the EK block too much. I either had to cut the corner of the Apogee AMD bracket and eliminate that bottom screw (which means the block wont be sitting evenly on the CPU or I had to put the corner of the bracket under the EK block; making the EK block unable to be fully screwed down. Unacceptable.


I have the same issue with my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 and that other manufacturer's product. The Apogee XL won't fit because their block takes up too much space near the the CPU. I really wanted an XL too. Maybe it's time to move to Intel.


----------



## Chipicao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It should be fine other than the dyed tubing. I don't think it would be necessary to rinse it out at this point.


I ended up changing the coolant and tubing anyway. I was just too curious to see what was going on. The coolant didn't have any blue or purple hue, but some of it was a bit brownish, probably from the brass. Anyway, as long as it works fine I'm happy.

One more question please, unrelated to this issue: how does the PWM controller handle fan speed on channels 2 through 8?
I've connected the pump to CH1 just like the guide says, and in the BIOS I've set the Minimum CPU fan duty cycle to 10%. The pump seems to be running at 1200RPM according to my monitoring data, but the fans are definitely slower. I'd say around 600RPM by eyeballing them.
Is there something like a divider being used between CH1 speed and CH2-8? Or am I getting wrong data from the MB?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> I ended up changing the coolant and tubing anyway. I was just too curious to see what was going on. The coolant didn't have any blue or purple hue, but some of it was a bit brownish, probably from the brass. Anyway, as long as it works fine I'm happy.
> 
> One more question please, unrelated to this issue: how does the PWM controller handle fan speed on channels 2 through 8?
> I've connected the pump to CH1 just like the guide says, and in the BIOS I've set the Minimum CPU fan duty cycle to 10%. The pump seems to be running at 1200RPM according to my monitoring data, but the fans are definitely slower. I'd say around 600RPM by eyeballing them.
> Is there something like a divider being used between CH1 speed and CH2-8? Or am I getting wrong data from the MB?


No, that's about right. The fans run between 700 to 1800 RPM +/- 10%. Being that everything runs off of the same percentage that the pump is set to that means if you have the pump running at 10% then the fans will also run at about 10% and scale up according to how you have your profile set. i hope this answers your question.


----------



## Chipicao

Ah, I get it now. The PWM signal is sent as a percentage, not an actual RPM speed. Thanks again!


----------



## VSG

Part 1 of the H220-X review up: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526779/user-review-of-the-swiftech-h220-x/0_50


----------



## Gavush

So... The rigid stuff is a bit tricky! Work in progress.


----------



## benbenkr

Okay, great that the 220x and 240x are back in stock. But when's the G 1/4 adapter coming back? Would really like to get everything at one go.


----------



## Gavush

Ok. Time to go to bed.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Ok. Time to go to bed.


Wow, that's excellent looking. Those runs look amazing. Nice work


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Ok. Time to go to bed.


Looks good.

How are you going to get this filled and drained?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> How are you going to get this filled and drained?


Looks amazing dude. Fill and drain? Mr. Ithinkaheadallthetime! I guess he could put a fitting and tube up top and fill I guess like that


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Mr. Bryan I am sorry if someone already asked this but I am looking to get more of the same coolant that is in the H240X, what coolant should I buy to add to it? I am putting another radiator and GPUS to the loop for the record.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Mr. Bryan I am sorry if someone already asked this but I am looking to get more of the same coolant that is in the H240X, what coolant should I buy to add to it? I am putting another radiator and GPUS to the loop for the record.


We don't sell this coolant separately yet. Any name brand coolant should be fine. Just make sure that it has good anti-microbial and anti-corrosion properties. If you have any questions you can PM me about them.


----------



## Gavush

Thanks for the props guys. I am going to redo the gpu/rad run to try to make a bit of it parallel to the res/rad line. (Currently it's the only horizontal run and I think it looks off or adds a different element. Can't decide)

So far as drain/fill/ bleed I added a remote fill port via the plug on the end if the reservoir. Used one of the CPU waterblock 45 swivel fittings, original tubing and a 3/8 barb fill port.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Thanks for the props guys. I am going to redo the gpu/rad run to try to make a bit of it parallel to the res/rad line. (Currently it's the only horizontal run and I think it looks off or adds a different element. Can't decide)
> 
> So far as drain/fill/ bleed I added a remote fill port via the plug on the end if the reservoir. Used one of the CPU waterblock 45 swivel fittings, original tubing and a 3/8 barb fill port.


Very nicely done.


----------



## Gylling

Hey guys,
This is my first post on this thread although I've been reading through some of the pages.
In the next couple of days I'm receiving a H220x and I'm thinking of expanding the loop. I'm planning on adding a second 2x 120mm rad as well as a GPU block. And I wanted to ask how loud the pump gets seeing as I'm trying to make my PC as quiet as possible.
So does the pump get louder than the fans on my GPU?

CPU - 4670k @4ghz
GPU - Asus 780 DCII at slight OC
Pardon my English, 2nd language.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gylling*
> 
> Hey guys,
> This is my first post on this thread although I've been reading through some of the pages.
> In the next couple of days I'm receiving a H220x and I'm thinking of expanding the loop. I'm planning on adding a second 2x 120mm rad as well as a GPU block. And I wanted to ask how loud the pump gets seeing as I'm trying to make my PC as quiet as possible.
> So doss the pump get louder than the fans on my GPU?
> 
> CPU - 4670k @4ghz
> GPU - Asus DCII at slight PC
> Pardon my English, 2nd language.


shouldn't only time I hear mine is right when it starts and I run mine at 100 percent all the time.... Sound sensitive could likely hear the hum but unless you have a very quiet video card I think you'll be fine there


----------



## Gylling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> shouldn't only time I hear mine is right when it starts and I run mine at 100 percent all the time.... Sound sensitive could likely hear the hum but unless you have a very quiet video card I think you'll be fine there


Thing is, I use a pair of open style headphones and when I play games such as BF4. The only thing I hear in the background is the GPU


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I hear my case fans and my GPU above that but I run everything 100 percent while gaming


----------



## Gylling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I hear my case fans and my GPU above that but I run everything 100 percent while gaming


All right, well I think I'm gonna go for it.

Thanks ☺


----------



## Gavush

Yes, I am unable to hear the water pump on my h240x even on 100% for sure. Even with the side cover off.


----------



## VSG

Finally completed: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526779/user-review-of-the-swiftech-h220-x/0_50


----------



## Gavush

Great job!

In other news, I've filled my loop with de stilled water and finally got 99% of the air bled out (2hrs later) and I'm running the pump at 100% via a spare power supply I've turned on. What is weird is that while I left it running and began to reassemble the chassis fans, wiring etc. I found that after I plugged several fans into the pwm splitter the pump began to run more slowly. This is odd because the pump gets power from the SATA connector and pwm from the splitter and the only hint that is powered up is the pump. With all the fans plugged into the splitter (6) the pump slows down when I plug it's lead into the splitter too. What's the deal with that?

Here it is humming merrily away. (3am! I should go to bed!)


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys need help, I just built my system with a H240-X on a i7-5930K and booted it. But my CPU temps are continually rising from 55°C the moment I boot it all the way upto 75°C within minutes.

Since this is the first time I setup any sort of water cooling, I don't know if my H240-X is working at all. The lights on the block and in the reservoir are 'on'.

I touched the CPU block and it is barely warm, same with the tubing. I touched the radiator but I can't feel any warmth at all. All fans im the case are running including the swiftech H240-X fans.

Have I setup wrong, how do I tell of the pump or radiator or anything is cooling?


----------



## VSG

See if the fans are spinning, if so check if the pump is by disconnecting the fans and hearing for the pump alone. I assume that you have connected all the cables?


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Ok. Time to go to bed.


Hey look amazing.
Are you satisfied with temps and pump power?
In Europe Swiftech H220X will become available after New Year 100%.
Swiftech should work with distributors in Europe to offer and adapter G 1/4 for pump in same shops.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Hey look amazing.
> Are you satisfied with temps and pump power?


Haven't booted up yet, only ran the pump by external power supply for about 40min. When I was bleeding the system I could watch the air bubbles move around the system and I would say there is plenty of flow - they moved pretty fast.


----------



## Gylling

Hey guys,
I just received my H220x and I noticed something on the rad, I don't know if this is supposed to be there and I wanted to make sure.
To me it looks like either corrosion or some soldering "residue"


Atm I'm running the pump next to my PC to check for leaks but none so far.
Should I be worried?


----------



## VSG

Looks more like a beat up tube channel. What's the diameter at the narrowest spot?


----------



## Gylling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks more like a beat up tube channel. What's the diameter at the narrowest spot?


I don't really have the tools to measure that precisely.
But when I look along the channel I cannot see any damage.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys need help, I just built my system with a H240-X on a i7-5930K and booted it. But my CPU temps are continually rising from 55°C the moment I boot it all the way upto 75°C within minutes.
> 
> Since this is the first time I setup any sort of water cooling, I don't know if my H240-X is working at all. The lights on the block and in the reservoir are 'on'.
> 
> I touched the CPU block and it is barely warm, same with the tubing. I touched the radiator but I can't feel any warmth at all. All fans im the case are running including the swiftech H240-X fans.
> 
> Have I setup wrong, how do I tell of the pump or radiator or anything is cooling?


did you remove the plastic from the bottom of the block? What paste did you use? Also If you used aftermarket paste pull your block and check if your Tim covered fully or if there is too much...


----------



## Gavush

I've got my rig running, set it to do some folding straight away. With fans/pump on 5% CPU got as high as 57c however it's living more around 54-55 at 30%. For some reason I'm having difficulty getting speed fan to control pwm1 according to the map/rule however you can manually adjust it fine.

Anyway, while folding the GPUs are running around 45-48c which is awesome.

Haven't really checked at idle but overall I think this is going to work great, especially using minimal fan speeds to keep noise down.



I'll probably drain and refill this weekend using the EK uv blue I bought. Not really looking forward to that. My fill spout worked well in conjunction with the bleed screw. Would be better with a threaded funnel vs the small one I stole from the kitchen.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> did you remove the plastic from the bottom of the block? What paste did you use? Also If you used aftermarket paste pull your block and check if your Tim covered fully or if there is too much...


Yes I did remove the plastic. I used the supplied paste. How can I tell if pump is working, I have never heard a water cooler pump before. And yes all my fans are spinning.

Should I try plugging the PWN Hub from the h240-X to CPU_FAN2, currently it is in CPU_FAN1


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Yes I did remove the plastic. I used the supplied paste. How can I tell if pump is working, I have never heard a water cooler pump before. And yes all my fans are spinning.
> 
> Should I try plugging the PWN Hub from the h240-X to CPU_FAN2, currently it is in CPU_FAN1


CPU1 is the preferred place you can monitor CPU fan speeds in bios (this would be safest if your temps are rising quickly as easy to power button if they go too high)the fan speed is the pump speed as the hub powers all the connected devices at the same percentages but only displays the 1st device connected to first port as the value it should be from 1500 to 3000... You can also see the impeller spinning in the window. If the impeller isn't spinning ensure the 4 pin pump connector is secure to the pump and port one on the PWM splitter. You can also give the pump a gentle slap to make sure it's not not an air bubble stuck...


----------



## 66racer

Well got my h220 RMA earlier this week, bitter sweet but excited for the upgrade....

Check out the gap from the trim piece and pump housing...(came wet too but Bryan assured me the pcb is sealed)


And with trim off (guess the warping can occur when the epoxy is installed from what Bryan mentioned, doesnt effect performance)


Thinking of using some carbon fiber wrap in place of the stock swiftech trim cover. That or use a silicone to seal the cap on to eliminate the gap. Leaning to the carbon fiber wrap though since I might dust off my tj08-e case and wrap that in carbon fiber....Got the good news of twins on the way so the test bench will eventually need to be retired lol....


----------



## Mega Man

congrats ~!


----------



## Comp4k

This cooler is super quiet, love it


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> This cooler is super quiet, love it


Glad to hear it! Are you planning to expand it or use it as is?


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> CPU1 is the preferred place you can monitor CPU fan speeds in bios (this would be safest if your temps are rising quickly as easy to power button if they go too high)the fan speed is the pump speed as the hub powers all the connected devices at the same percentages but only displays the 1st device connected to first port as the value it should be from 1500 to 3000... You can also see the impeller spinning in the window. If the impeller isn't spinning ensure the 4 pin pump connector is secure to the pump and port one on the PWM splitter. You can also give the pump a gentle slap to make sure it's not not an air bubble stuck...


I don't even know what the impeller or anything is. Are there any youtube videos I can watch to see how a H220-X/H240-X looks and sounds when in action.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I don't even know what the impeller or anything is. Are there any youtube videos I can watch to see how a H220-X/H240-X looks and sounds when in action.


First I suggest you read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526779/user-review-of-the-swiftech-h220-x

Such they you have a better understanding of the device.


----------



## shadow85

OK I am a complete moron, I did not even have the 4pin pump power connecter connected to the pump :S

But anyways how far in does the connecter suupose to go? Because it doesnt feel all the way in when I connect it, there is still a bit sticking out but I can't push it in further.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> OK I am a complete moron, I did not even have the 4pin pump power connecter connected to the pump :S
> 
> But anyways how far in does the connecter suupose to go? Because it doesnt feel all the way in when I connect it, there is still a bit sticking out but I can't push it in further.










your pump wasnt running at all then.. it doesnt seat all the way in like most plugs do and it feels kinda loose... i brought this up to bram perhaps they can iron it out in future products but it will be ok once its connected







i bet it will perform much more admirably now :0


----------



## shadow85

Hmm still dont think I have installed it correctly because when I switch the system on, the temps still rise very slowly to about 45°C idle.


----------



## shadow85

And how important is it to have the o-rings under the 2011 screws when screwing the block into the socket. Because I had much trouble trying to get the o-rings on the screws, I think I may have not done that properly or missed some.


----------



## shadow85

I still don't think pump is working either, I can't see anything move in the reservoir, it seems very still in there.


----------



## VSG

You connected both SATA cables to the PSU right?


----------



## CoolProject

Hello guys, I would like to ask a question ... the Cooler Master Glacer 360L was taken off the market? or will be released soon?


----------



## Gavush

I just wanted to post an update as to how my H240-X expanded loop is doing.

I'm running a FX-8350, two Radeon 7970 cards with a parallel bridge and a Swiftech MCR220-XP radiator. My flow is pump - CPU - GPU - 240rad - 280rad. arranged with a low-restriction concept.

I've had the system folding on CPU & both GPUs for almost 24hours now. I have the fan & pump speeds set to 20% via Speedfan. Pump RPM is reported to be 1480rpm.

As I sit here typing this (while folding) the CPU is at 54c GPU1 is 48C GPU2 is 46c

(applause!)

So... depending on how you want to set up your loop I'd say this thing is very capable indeed!


----------



## MerkageTurk

Hey still no response from the eu distribution


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> And how important is it to have the o-rings under the 2011 screws when screwing the block into the socket. Because I had much trouble trying to get the o-rings on the screws, I think I may have not done that properly or missed some.


the o rings help keep even pressure on the block when tightening without them you can easily overtighten one side or the other.... also from the sounds of things you had trouble with the mount and may have lifted the block creating an air bubble in your tim... you can look through the window and see the impeller spinning its the round fan shaped object that pulls the water in from the reservoir.... if your pump wasnt running you would NOT stop at 45C it would be doing what it was doing before.. however you might have the pwm set in bios to only ramp up during higher temps... would recommend a remount of the block taking care that all the o rings are there and positioned properly as the diagram shows.. also when you remove the block look at the tim on the cpu and see if it was enough to fully cover the cpu or if it was too much and went over when you remount you want to use NEW TIM ALWAYS and try not to lift it once youve placed it down.. a little twist or sideways movement doesnt normally hurt but lifting at all can cause air bubbles or inconsistent spreading of tim


----------



## Comp4k

Best CPU cooler i've ever purchased.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the o rings help keep even pressure on the block when tightening without them you can easily overtighten one side or the other.... also from the sounds of things you had trouble with the mount and may have lifted the block creating an air bubble in your tim... you can look through the window and see the impeller spinning its the round fan shaped object that pulls the water in from the reservoir.... if your pump wasnt running you would NOT stop at 45C it would be doing what it was doing before.. however you might have the pwm set in bios to only ramp up during higher temps... would recommend a remount of the block taking care that all the o rings are there and positioned properly as the diagram shows.. also when you remove the block look at the tim on the cpu and see if it was enough to fully cover the cpu or if it was too much and went over when you remount you want to use NEW TIM ALWAYS and try not to lift it once youve placed it down.. a little twist or sideways movement doesnt normally hurt but lifting at all can cause air bubbles or inconsistent spreading of tim


I re-installed the block now, and re-applied thermal paste. I even put the o-rings properly this time, and yes I can see the impeller spinning, the small round thing. But I am still idling @ 45°C, it takes a while to get here but it does. I even set the fan for CPU_FAN1(240-X pwm connected to this) to max, but it still did not lower the temps at all.

I was wondering if I have a bad motherboard, can this cause the CPU temps to go high? Because it is possible my motherboard is bad as I am having issues with which I posted about in other forums/threads.


----------



## shadow85

Im getting so jealous looking at other people having this cooler and their rigs run properly ;(........... why meeeee??


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I re-installed the block now, and re-applied thermal paste. I even put the o-rings properly this time, and yes I can see the impeller spinning, the small round thing. But I am still idling @ 45°C, it takes a while to get here but it does. I even set the fan for CPU_FAN1(240-X pwm connected to this) to max, but it still did not lower the temps at all.
> 
> I was wondering if I have a bad motherboard, can this cause the CPU temps to go high? Because it is possible my motherboard is bad as I am having issues with which I posted about in other forums/threads.


Can you list your specs?

Someone had a similar problem (not with this cooler but a custom loop) and it turned out that the motherboard's auto OC software was jacking up the voltage (Auto OC was turned on by default due to a dip switch).


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag06*
> 
> Can you list your specs?
> 
> Someone had a similar problem (not with this cooler but a custom loop) and it turned out that the motherboard's auto OC software was jacking up the voltage (Auto OC was turned on by default due to a dip switch).


Yeah I had OC genie on by default but I did turn it off immediatly but still no temperature change. Especially when I put the fan setting for the PWM hub to max, the temps dont budge at all.

MSI X99S gaming 7 / i7-5930K / 4x4GB HyperX 2400MHz / Corsair AX860 / Sasmsung 850 PRO 256GB


----------



## shadow85

Im might try the H240-X in my old Z87 system which has a i5-4670k + Noctua U12SEP from along time ago and that is working like a charm still.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Yeah I had OC genie on by default but I did turn it off immediatly but still no temperature change. Especially when I put the fan setting for the PWM hub to max, the temps dont budge at all.
> 
> MSI X99S gaming 7 / i7-5930K / 4x4GB HyperX 2400MHz / Corsair AX860 / Sasmsung 850 PRO 256GB


do you have your voltages set on auto in the bios.. Also what is your llc set too...auto settings often result in higher temps because they over compensate with voltages higher than you need... even at stock this happens all the time


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Hey still no response from the eu distribution


Man that sucks. While there were minor hiccups with my rma, Bryan always maintained excellent communication. Hope they take care of you over there with the different protocol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Im getting so jealous looking at other people having this cooler and their rigs run properly ;(........... why meeeee??


Maybe I missed it but what happened?


----------



## shadow85

OK i think my temps are fine actually. CoreTemp is reporting them as around 35 deg. C idle, it was BIOS that was reporting it as 10-15 deg. C more.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> OK i think my temps are fine actually. CoreTemp is reporting them as around 35 deg. C idle, it was BIOS that was reporting it as 10-15 deg. C more.


bios puts a small load on the cpu so that's probably why


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> bios puts a small load on the cpu so that's probably why


Im not sure though, those temps were on my Z87 setup, Im gona try my X99 setup tommorow.


----------



## BWAS1000

Hi guys, just want to ask a question, can the pump/res be removed from the rad on the H220-X or any other X coolers?


----------



## VSG

Yes, but the inlet to the reservoir is leak tight via an O-ring seal and so you can't use it outside of the radiator unit.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, but the inlet to the reservoir is leak tight via an O-ring seal and so you can't use it outside of the radiator unit.


So,absolutely no way to even,move the,combo?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> So,absolutely no way to even,move the,combo?


Not unless you create your own O-ring sealed connectors from the radiator to the reservoir. This is what helped them minimize the dimensions of the radiator as much as possible. If this interferes in your case then you would be best served looking at something like the H220 or a custom loop kit.


----------



## Gavush

Swapped out the plain destilled water for some mixed w/ EK's E-Koolant UV Blue. Took some final pics w/ wife's Nikon D3700.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## shadow85

Not ure if my unit is borked in anyways, im still getting high temps no matter what I do. It can idle as low as 35°C, but for some reason it likes to hang more around 45°C when doing nothing on the comp. I tried Prime95 and within minutes I was hitting high 70's.

I can feel alot of hot air blowing out the top where the radiator and fans are.

Im using this on a i5-4670k @ 4GHz


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Not ure if my unit is borked in anyways, im still getting high temps no matter what I do. It can idle as low as 35°C, but for some reason it likes to hang more around 45°C when doing nothing on the comp. I tried Prime95 and within minutes I was hitting high 70's.
> 
> I can feel alot of hot air blowing out the top where the radiator and fans are.
> 
> Im using this on a i5-4670k @ 4GHz


High 70s using P95 on a 4670K isn't unusual, and is actually on the low~normal side. There is a known heat issue using P95 on DC CPUs. Try OCCT's stress test.

The 35 degree idle also isn't too unusual depending on your ambient temps. The jumps to 45 are likely caused by background processes. _You_ may not be doing anything, but your CPU may be. Look at your actual CPU usage during these idle temp bumps.


----------



## shadow85

Im tempted to buy another AIO and test/compare it.


----------



## Viltsu

Hi,

I got my H220-X two days ago and I've been trying to get it to work correctly since then. The main problem is that the pump isn't apparently spinning. I have a Z77 Sabertooth and this is how I've plugged it in:

Pump- and hub SATA-connectors to power supply
4-pin connector from pump -> H220-X hub CH1
4-pin connector from H220-X hub -> CPU_FAN
4-pin conncetor from the water block -> H220-X hub and CPU_OPT

I also tried switching out the water block 4-pin to the CPU_FAN with the 4-pin from the hub to CPU_OPT, but that didn't work either.



Motherboard gives a "CPU Fan Error!" every time when I power on.

How should I plug it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viltsu*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I got my H220-X two days ago and I've been trying to get it to work correctly since then. The main problem is that the pump isn't apparently spinning. I have a Z77 Sabertooth and this is how I've plugged it in:
> 
> Pump- and hub SATA-connectors to power supply
> 4-pin connector from pump -> H220-X hub CH1
> 4-pin connector from H220-X hub -> CPU_FAN
> 4-pin conncetor from the water block -> H220-X hub and CPU_OPT
> 
> I also tried switching out the water block 4-pin to the CPU_FAN with the 4-pin from the hub to CPU_OPT, but that didn't work either.
> 
> 
> 
> How should I plug it?


4 pin from the pump should go from pump to H220x hub chan1...be sure it's seated well in the pump housing...4 pin from hub to cpu_fan...Sata from H220x hub and pump to power supply connector.... The 3 pin for the block led can be connected to any fan header... The fans should be connected to channel 2 and 3 in H220x hub... The 3 pin from the block simply runs the led on the block.... check in your bios at the reading for cpu_fan it should be between 1500 and 3000...If you look in the window at the impeller in the hole if it isn't spinning you will see it looking kind of like a fan blade if you can't see it it's spinning....if your window isn't lit with the led be sure the two pin connector that splits off the pump 4 pin is connected to the led connector... You can also feel the pump housing and feel it spinning or I can.... not seeing the coolant moving when pump is on is good that means no air bubbles


----------



## VSG

Did you hook up the modular pump connection marked "To Pump" into the pump? Read my review linked in my sig below for clarification.


----------



## Endeav

Any word on H240-X availability? I'm looking to pick one up in Canada but the NCIX website is perpetually without update on its stock. Failing that, whats the best US retailer to purchase from with regards to shipping costs and customs?


----------



## Viltsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you hook up the modular pump connection marked "To Pump" into the pump? Read my review linked in my sig below for clarification.


Thank you! I must have ripped off that "to pump" sticker and disregarded the whole connector as just something that connects the two wires. It would have been nice of Swiftech to include a mention of that connector in the installation guide. There simply isn't any. I hadn't even noticed the connection under the pump. Anyway, thanks!


----------



## VSG

No problem, glad it helped.


----------



## Scorpion49

I made the mistake of trying to use my Glacer 240L again after a few months of banishment, after 2 days of use its stuck at 3500rpm and sounds like its full of glass.... again. This is my 3rd one of these units (one H-220 and two 240L) and all of them have had terrible pumps, is this normal and accepted?


----------



## cephelix

Was it ever taken apart and cleaned? If it wasn't maybe you should try doing that. Not particularly sure about the Glacier sets but the Swiftech ones were full of gunk when I took mine apart


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> Was it ever taken apart and cleaned? If it wasn't maybe you should try doing that. Not particularly sure about the Glacier sets but the Swiftech ones were full of gunk when I took mine apart


No, it wasn't. I took the H-220 apart only to find the bearing was bad and they would not warranty it because I took it apart. This is my second 240L and both have had less than 3-4 days of use before turning to full speed and making bad noises. I returned the first one to the store which is an hour and a half drive away, but this one has been in the box for a while because I just used my old air cooler and didn't want to change it out again. I tried to use this thing now because I got a 295x2 and the radiator on it blocked my air cooler.


----------



## cephelix

that's a tough spot you're in.because mine was remedied by swiftech. could you possibly talk to bryan and see if they could send you a new bearing(provided they are the same of course)?


----------



## Vlada011

Did you saw this build with Swiftech H220X

Tech Tomorrow






This pump push liquid pretty fast.
More than enough for CPU/GPU and two radiators.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Did you saw this build with Swiftech H220X
> 
> Tech Tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pump push liquid pretty fast.
> More than enough for CPU/GPU and two radiators.


Correct it has as much or more pump then most builds with multiple rads, Cpu block and gpus block/s

The pump it more than enough, I would add another rad if you are going to OC.

Nick


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Swapped out the plain destilled water for some mixed w/ EK's E-Koolant UV Blue. Took some final pics w/ wife's Nikon D3700.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great! I've been debating about trying hard lines when I expand mine and this really makes it tough to decide against them.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

How do you drain with that setup?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> How do you drain with that setup?


I have a 8" line with a drain/fill port attached to the G1/4 port on the end of the H240x. I found that when I drained it to add the coolant on Saturday evening I had to loosen one of the lines on the lower radiator to allow air to replace the water as it drained out. I did this with the whole thing situated up-side-down such that the lower radiator was the highest point.


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Endeav*
> 
> Any word on H240-X availability? I'm looking to pick one up in Canada but the NCIX website is perpetually without update on its stock. Failing that, whats the best US retailer to purchase from with regards to shipping costs and customs?


Check out frozencpu and performance pcs , they go out of stock quick!


----------



## mcnumpty23

my first attempt at expanding a h320--not up to some of you guys standard--but hey it works and my temperatures dropped by a large amount

going to do the gpu after xmas





and i know my camera work sucks lol


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> my first attempt at expanding a h320--not up to some of you guys standard--but hey it works and my temperatures dropped by a large amount -
> and i know my camera work sucks lol


I like the reservoir! Pictures can be tricky to take even with a nice SLR.


----------



## Gavush

Primochill shared a pic of my setup on facebook and it's been shared 7 times from there and has gathered 100 likes on various pages (including Primochill's page) #feelingfamous


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Primochill shared a pic of my setup on facebook and it's been shared 7 times from there and has gathered 100 likes on various pages (including Primochill's page) #feelingfamous


Congrats!we got a mister popular here...
can i have your autograph?


----------



## Mega Man

congrats?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats?


yeah, cos primochill shared his photo...any exposure is good exposure


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I like the reservoir! Pictures can be tricky to take even with a nice SLR.


didnt help my camera battery was on its last legs so just stuck it on auto setting and rushed the shots

res is xspc photon

other than being a pain to mount--had to drill new holes--the quality of it is great,glass instead of acrylic ,metal instead of plastic,could do with another port on the top of it though

can fill it up or use the top port and half fill it to get a waterfall effect

the white led looked great against the red--but stupid me decided to try some red mayhems--doesnt look as good

best thing is i got the res at trade price because the website i ordered from cocked up my order and had to get another site to send the res

so i only paid £27 instead of £42 for it


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I re-installed the block now, and re-applied thermal paste. I even put the o-rings properly this time, and yes I can see the impeller spinning, the small round thing. But I am still idling @ 45°C, it takes a while to get here but it does. I even set the fan for CPU_FAN1(240-X pwm connected to this) to max, but it still did not lower the temps at all.
> 
> I was wondering if I have a bad motherboard, can this cause the CPU temps to go high? Because it is possible my motherboard is bad as I am having issues with which I posted about in other forums/threads.


The real question is what cpu are you running and what voltage do you have it set for. This could be the real issue just something in the bios set to high or wrong. Maybe llc


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I have a 8" line with a drain/fill port attached to the G1/4 port on the end of the H240x. I found that when I drained it to add the coolant on Saturday evening I had to loosen one of the lines on the lower radiator to allow air to replace the water as it drained out. I did this with the whole thing situated up-side-down such that the lower radiator was the highest point.


What tubing and fittings did you use. I want took hard tubing as well. How did you bend the tubing (I know a best gun) but did you bend it with a kit or free hand. Oh and where do you get the silicone insert? Is t from a kit or can you buy it seperatly


----------



## MerkageTurk

Finally received a response with my RMA code from the distribution in France









Thanks Bryan


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What tubing and fittings did you use. I want took hard tubing as well. How did you bend the tubing (I know a best gun) but did you bend it with a kit or free hand. Oh and where do you get the silicone insert? Is t from a kit or can you buy it seperatly


I used Primochill Ghost rigid fittings and Primochill 1/2" OD PETG tubing. I used the primochill silicone insert and after heating w/ a heat gun, bent the items by hand while laying them on a Fiskar cutting mat that had 1" grid on it and some angles.

Tubing

Fittings

Silicone insert


cutting mat


----------



## emsj86

Thank you outside of fittings didn't realize that it's the same as going soft. My mind is moving now and I will be buding a petg loop soon.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thank you outside of fittings didn't realize that it's the same as going soft. My mind is moving now and I will be buding a petg loop soon.


the only downside I can see is if you have to change anything around you can't simply move the hose to get your hand in... like removing cmos battery which is compounded if it's in a spot like on my saber board


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Sooooo....... Those H240-Xs are gonna be restocked soon.... maybe hopefully?


----------



## viderbit

I don't want to make advertising, but I just ordered a single H240-X from a netherlandish online shop (EU) and now I am waiting the shipping.
This is the only place that I found so far, which actually shows H240-X in stock









PS: I will try to add some picture when the installation is done.


----------



## VSG

Very nice. Welcome to OCN


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Sooooo....... Those H240-Xs are gonna be restocked soon.... maybe hopefully?


Yes, we should have them back in stock sometime late next week.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, we should have them back in stock sometime late next week.


YES!

My setup will be awesome I will be sure to post things. My watercooling is going to be done with all 140mm fans

I wanted to have a second pump in the look and I wanted a little more radiator headroom than just 2x 280mm so I am planning on adding this nice new product into the loop

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx


----------



## choLOL

Will the H240X fit at the top of the phantom 410?

The case has room for 2 140mm fans at the top, as *seen here*, and the H200x coolers basically occupy the same footprint as its fans, right?

I'm thinking of doing it like H240x - top panel - fans - plastic shroud of the case.


----------



## souldriver

I went with the h240x and it seems i may have 2 extra 140mm PH-F140XP phantek fans left over. is there any benefit to using these instead of the fans stock on there now?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

From what i hear the helix fans that come with the H240X are higher end fans that are good for performance and low noise


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I went with the h240x and it seems i may have 2 extra 140mm PH-F140XP phantek fans left over. is there any benefit to using these instead of the fans stock on there now?


The XP's are case fans, not rad fans. I've got some HP's and they'll be going on my h240-X, and I'll throw the helix 140's on another rad for push pull.

To answer your question, use the helix fans on your h240


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I went with the h240x and it seems i may have 2 extra 140mm PH-F140XP phantek fans left over. is there any benefit to using these instead of the fans stock on there now?


Follow what the others has said, stick to the Helix fans (they're actually really good, not the best but really good!).

Otherwise, you may want to try Phanteks new F140MP fans. I have them on order now.


----------



## Conditioned

Phanteks 140 mm are the best 140 mm fans available.


----------



## ali500mph

Finally got around to setting up my computer. Started this July and now in December I have all the necessary parts except a graphics card which I will buy with my next paycheck. New to this so if anyone has any suggestions on how to get better performance on my setup or any comments please feel free to let me know.

Part List:



Thanks!


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Phanteks 140 mm are the best 140 mm fans available.


Some might call you a Phanboy...

seriously though are they so much better that it would be more worth it than say adding another radiator or something?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

OMG I just found out that Phanteks makes the most amazing PC case ever: Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Just a little to big for my needs tho.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> OMG I just found out that Phanteks makes the most amazing PC case ever: Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Just a little to big for my needs tho.


it came before the Pro and luxe so I've been told


----------



## souldriver

Another question. Most build guides are based around the 1150 socket abd they all talk about the backplate. does 2011-3 not use a backplate and it just screws right into the top of the board?

Also my h240x had yellow dust in it that dissipated when i turned the pump on. is that normal?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> Another question. Most build guides are based around the 1150 socket abd they all talk about the backplate. does 2011-3 not use a backplate and it just screws right into the top of the board?
> 
> Also my h240x had yellow dust in it that dissipated when i turned the pump on. is that normal?


Yes, socket 2011-3 uses the same mounting system and dimensions as socket 2011. These don't use back plates because they fasten directly onto the motherboard.

What do you mean by "yellow dust" and can you still see it in the coolant?


----------



## souldriver

I went to test the unit and when i turned it on and the led came on i saw yellow tinted dust (it may not be yellow but thats what it looked like through the slightly blue tinted coolant) it looks like very very fine sawdust or sediment. Since the pump was on as well, it quickly kicked up and dissipated. you cannot see it floating in the coolant as it seems to have dissolved or gone elsewhere.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I went to test the unit and when i turned it on and the led came on i saw yellow tinted dust (it may not be yellow but thats what it looked like through the slightly blue tinted coolant) it looks like very very fine sawdust or sediment. Since the pump was on as well, it quickly kicked up and dissipated. you cannot see it floating in the coolant as it seems to have dissolved or gone elsewhere.


Let me look into this and get back to you. It could simply be that some of the antibacterial additive settles and then dissolves once the coolant starts to flow again.


----------



## souldriver

Thank you, im none too worried about it but clarification is always nice.
If i could of taken a pic of it I would have except i turned it on, noticed it, and off it was. It did seem settled as it wasnt floating around. It lifted up and went away once the pump was on.


----------



## souldriver

Hopefully the last question. do you know the thread size for the machines screws that are keeping the fans on and are going into the rad? Its looks like mounting it on the corsair 750d, especially if i want to keep the rubber washers that come with the chassis, they may be a tiny bit short for comfort.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Has anyone tried to plug a 8way splitter into another 8 way splitter? I want to run 12 fans plus the H240X pump plus another pump. So if I get an addition splitter I am thinking I can plug one into the other without any problems maybe...


----------



## souldriver

I would think it would be wiser to get another splitter and run it seperate. correct me if im wrong but there should be another pwm connector somewhere on the board that can be assigned the same cpu fan signal? (assuming that your asus rog board from your sig is the one in question.)


----------



## GraveDigger7878

It is the same board and i have a couple of other PWMs to plug it in to. So essentially both the cpu fan pwm and regular pwm should run at the same rate. I believe i can manually adjust fan curves in the bios if need be anyways


----------



## souldriver

I thought i read with asus boards you can assign any of the chassis pwm headers to read as if it were one of the other pwm heads. so you can assign it to read and react to what the cpu fan header is reading, correct me if im wrong


----------



## Gavush

I've had poor luck with asus boards that say the cha_fan headers are pwm when they're actually varied voltage.


----------



## souldriver

To anyone using theirs with a corsair case, specifically a 750d.

I have my H240x up and mounted but im questioning if its secure. In short the rubber washer grommets that are on the case are needed due to the screw heads on the H240x being too small, this adds some thickness so the screws dont come out too much. I can get about 3-4 threads into the rad once I tighten down the screws, and it seems secure enough, but you can see how much the rubber washer grommets deform. When I pull on it and it doesnt budge, but it doesnt seem the most secure. anyone have any other suggestions on how to secure this a little better.
I also apologize for the purple tinted pics, i only have my phone and no matter what i do black turn a purple haze.


The screws are short so they don't go through and into the radiator, though this is a bigger stretch once you add the chassis top thickness and the need for the rubber washer grommets. The washer grommets are needed as the head of the screws arnt big enough to not slip through the screw holes. One or two threads are showing and I may have gotten another 2 or in there when the rubber compressed during tightening.



Here you can see to get the screws tight the rubber washer grommets got deformed. Im not sure how I feel about this, i dont care about the looks as they will be covered but i dont want anything to slip through or fail .

A pic of the washer grommets shape, the large size goes on the outside.

On the top you can see how the screw head is just a tiny bit too small for the hole.

If there is another more elegant solution out there, im all ears.


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I've had poor luck with asus boards that say the cha_fan headers are pwm when they're actually varied voltage.


Isnt there a setting in the bios to switch them over to PWM or does that not work?


----------



## Gavush

I was not able to get it to work on my m5a97 r2.0 my new m5a99fx pro 2.0 specifies that they are not pwm. I dunno about other boards. My coworker has a new $500 board for his 6 core intel thingy (rampage IV black edition) and it says pwm but he hasn't checked w/ a splitter to see if it's pwm or reducing voltage.


----------



## souldriver

interesting, i have an asus x99-deluxe and i bought it and all my case fans assuming that it could be turned to PWM, i will check it out when im done building.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I thought i read with asus boards you can assign any of the chassis pwm headers to read as if it were one of the other pwm heads. so you can assign it to read and react to what the cpu fan header is reading, correct me if im wrong


I will look into this


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I've had poor luck with asus boards that say the cha_fan headers are pwm when they're actually varied voltage.


Oh really? How long ago? I have the Hero 6 I hope I am not affected !


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> interesting, i have an asus x99-deluxe and i bought it and all my case fans assuming that it could be turned to PWM, i will check it out when im done building.


The only thing I can think of for you is either get longer screws but do NOT explode your rad by screwing the screws through the water channel. Or use metal washers. Or get longer screws and shim the rubber grommets with metal washers. If that makes sense?! I once had noise canceling rubber washers for my fans and shimmed with metal washers and it worked out.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Oh really? How long ago? I have the Hero 6 I hope I am not affected !


It was a few years ago.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1353732/trouble-with-pwm-control-on-chassis-fan-headers-w-pwm-splitter

The best way to find out if it's PWM or not is to try to run some PWM fans via a splitter. That or use a LED fan and see if the LED goes from bright to dim the slower the fan goes. on PWM signal LED PWM fans will have the LED the same brightness all the time due to the 12v suppled. on a varied voltage header the LED will dim as it reduces the voltage.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> I went to test the unit and when i turned it on and the led came on i saw yellow tinted dust (it may not be yellow but thats what it looked like through the slightly blue tinted coolant) it looks like very very fine sawdust or sediment. Since the pump was on as well, it quickly kicked up and dissipated. you cannot see it floating in the coolant as it seems to have dissolved or gone elsewhere.


Here's what our engineer had to say about this. Most likely this was just some residual micro-bubbles that passed through the reservoir during start up. If this occurs again though please PM me because it shouldn't repeat itself.


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> To anyone using theirs with a corsair case, specifically a 750d.
> 
> I have my H240x up and mounted but im questioning if its secure. In short the rubber washer grommets that are on the case are needed due to the screw heads on the H240x being too small, this adds some thickness so the screws dont come out too much. I can get about 3-4 threads into the rad once I tighten down the screws, and it seems secure enough, but you can see how much the rubber washer grommets deform. When I pull on it and it doesnt budge, but it doesnt seem the most secure. anyone have any other suggestions on how to secure this a little better.
> I also apologize for the purple tinted pics, i only have my phone and no matter what i do black turn a purple haze.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screws are short so they don't go through and into the radiator, though this is a bigger stretch once you add the chassis top thickness and the need for the rubber washer grommets. The washer grommets are needed as the head of the screws arnt big enough to not slip through the screw holes. One or two threads are showing and I may have gotten another 2 or in there when the rubber compressed during tightening.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see to get the screws tight the rubber washer grommets got deformed. Im not sure how I feel about this, i dont care about the looks as they will be covered but i dont want anything to slip through or fail .
> 
> A pic of the washer grommets shape, the large size goes on the outside.
> 
> On the top you can see how the screw head is just a tiny bit too small for the hole.
> 
> 
> If there is another more elegant solution out there, im all ears.


I'd try metal washers as GraveDigger suggested.

I have a 750D and the same problem, I didn't use the rubber washers though. It takes some patience, but you can eventually get the screws to stay in place.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Oh really? How long ago? I have the Hero 6 I hope I am not affected !


I believe only the CPU headers on the Hero VI are PWM, the rest are VR. I know that ASUS made the change to actual PWM on the chassis headers on most boards with the Z97s.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I believe only the CPU headers on the Hero VI are PWM, the rest are VR. I know that ASUS made the change to actual PWM on the chassis headers on most boards with the Z97s.


Darn! Maybe this gives me more of a reason to get the Sabertooth z97 Mark S with the snow camo scheme...


----------



## Woesty420

I've heard it's wise to add on a second res to help with bleeding and draining for the h-220x. *Can anyone clarify that for me and explain why?*
I plan on adding a Bay Res if that is so. *In what order would I run the loop if I added a bay res into the equation??*


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> I've heard it's wise to add on a second res to help with bleeding and draining for the h-220x. *Can anyone clarify that for me and explain why?*
> I plan on adding a Bay Res if that is so. *In what order would I run the loop if I added a bay res into the equation??*


Are you expanding the H220X to more than just the CPU?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> I've heard it's wise to add on a second res to help with bleeding and draining for the h-220x. *Can anyone clarify that for me and explain why?*
> I plan on adding a Bay Res if that is so. *In what order would I run the loop if I added a bay res into the equation??*


yes it helps a lot with bleeding especially if it is highest point in the loop but even if it isn't it allows the air to gather in the res rather than be sucked through the loop until you happen to get it out of fillport or god forbid you try the fragile bleed port lol... Most res can be topped off easily as the air escapes allowing you to reduce the chance of sucking air back through the loop again...Also having bled thus system 6 times two of which without second res...I promise you it helps so much...even more so when evaporation happens and you have to purge that air without a second res you get to remove your H220-X H240-X again....yay

Most say order doesn't matter much...ad long as you mind the fact that certain blocks have in and out ports for proper flow..if you aren't expanding and just using it as is there's no reason to open it for a res most of the time


----------



## Woesty420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yes it helps a lot with bleeding especially if it is highest point in the loop but even if it isn't it allows the air to gather in the res rather than be sucked through the loop until you happen to get it out of fillport or god forbid you try the fragile bleed port lol... Most res can be topped off easily as the air escapes allowing you to reduce the chance of sucking air back through the loop again...Also having bled thus system 6 times two of which without second res...I promise you it helps so much...even more so when evaporation happens and you have to purge that air without a second res you get to remove your H220-X H240-X again....yay
> 
> Most say order doesn't matter much...ad long as you mind the fact that certain blocks have in and out ports for proper flow..if you aren't expanding and just using it as is there's no reason to open it for a res most of the time


I'll be sticking to just CPU, may add in a 140 rad for the rear, not too sure yet. But I do plan on switching tubing, coolant and fittings. Therefore the loop will be opened up, so if a second res can help me bleed and refill much easier then i may as well do it. It's also aesthetically pleasing to have a nice bay res in there!!









*So, If I have a Bay res, does that mean I don't even have to touch the fill port (I read it can be easily stripped or something??) on the h220x ever, except to drain it intially?* *I can just fill and top up through the port on the bay?*


----------



## Comp4k

Yes, you only need to drain it initially- after that you will bleed through your bay res. No need to bleed through the port on the H220x


----------



## benbenkr

Regarding PWM headers on Asus boards, only Z97 RoG boards, Deluxe and WS boards has true PWM channels for all fan headers. Everything else is pure Asus bs as usual.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Regarding PWM headers on Asus boards, only Z97 RoG boards, Deluxe and WS boards has true PWM channels for all fan headers. Everything else is pure Asus bs as usual.


Sabertooth, also.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, socket 2011-3 uses the same mounting system and dimensions as socket 2011. These don't use back plates because they fasten directly onto the motherboard.


Technically they do use backplates. It's just that the 2011-3 comes with its own backplate as part of the motherboard.


----------



## frag06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Regarding PWM headers on Asus boards, only Z97 RoG boards, Deluxe and WS boards has true PWM channels for all fan headers. Everything else is pure Asus bs as usual.


From what I've read, every board from the Z97-A to their high-end boards have PWM support for every fan header. I have a Z97-AR and all of the fan headers are PWM controllable.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sabertooth, also.


Missed Sabertooth, thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frag06*
> 
> From what I've read, every board from the Z97-A to their high-end boards has PWM support for every fan header. I have a Z97-AR and all of the fan headers are PWM controllable.


Z97-Pro perhaps, I'm not sure. But the Z97-A does not have full PWM channels for every fan header, at least my board from launch didn't. Asus may have released a new revision, I'm not sure.


----------



## souldriver

just another check to make sure i did it right...
When screwing down 2011-3 and 2011 sockets the thumbscrews felt loose until they (I assume) bottomed out and didnt turn anymore. Im going to say this is ok. Though i can harly see in there, i cant visibly see any gap between the copper and the lid of the processor


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's what our engineer had to say about this. Most likely this was just some residual micro-bubbles that passed through the reservoir during start up. If this occurs again though please PM me because it shouldn't repeat itself.


thanks for the clarification. I hope i dont see it again as i do not want to have uninstall then reinstall it. i just seemed to have a beast of a time popping the plastic washers off and on for the 2011 socket


----------



## Comp4k

That mount looks perfect.


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> That mount looks perfect.


Thanks, youre not so bad yourself. Oh the cpu mount,, uh yes yes.

This is the first time im putting on a water cooler and i want to double check anything im in doubt of.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> just another check to make sure i did it right...
> When screwing down 2011-3 and 2011 sockets the thumbscrews felt loose until they (I assume) bottomed out and didnt turn anymore. Im going to say this is ok. Though i can harly see in there, i cant visibly see any gap between the copper and the lid of the processor


Looks fine. As long as the top doesn't wobble... Personally, I screw them tight by hand and then perhaps another 1/8- to 1/4-turn with a screwdriver. You wouldn't want it too tight as the metal of the screws could make Lcontact with traces on the top of the board and short something out.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woesty420*
> 
> I've heard it's wise to add on a second res to help with bleeding and draining for the h-220x. *Can anyone clarify that for me and explain why?*
> I plan on adding a Bay Res if that is so. *In what order would I run the loop if I added a bay res into the equation??*


Well since the h220x allready had a res before the pk order shouldn't matter. But normally you want the res. to feed the pump where the res is higher than the pump. So you can have it go from h220x res to the h220x pump than instead of cpu to the res than to the cpu. It helps with bleed time. I only suggest doing this if you out changing tubing or expanding to a gpu or else it's not really needed. It won't hurt and will only help.


----------



## emsj86

Odd off topic question. I have a second computer that has blue led lights on the fan frame. Of I was to break the bulbs as I do t want the les light anymore will it cause a problem like a short.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Odd off topic question. I have a second computer that has blue led lights on the fan frame. Of I was to break the bulbs as I do t want the les light anymore will it cause a problem like a short.


clip the wire and put a dab of glue on the end of the wire no muss no fuss


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> Looks fine. As long as the top doesn't wobble... Personally, I screw them tight by hand and then perhaps another 1/8- to 1/4-turn with a screwdriver. You wouldn't want it too tight as the metal of the screws could make Lcontact with traces on the top of the board and short something out.


Well that's the thing. It never got tighter per say it just stopped and bottomed out. The top isn't wobbling so it seems secured on there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *souldriver*
> 
> Well that's the thing. It never got tighter per say it just stopped and bottomed out. The top isn't wobbling so it seems secured on there.


That sounds right to me. Have you checked your temperatures?


----------



## cephelix

i would agree with @mfknjadagr8. breaking the LED itself would be more of a hazard....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> i would agree with @mfknjadagr8. breaking the LED itself would be more of a hazard....


also if you clip the led off the wire you might find a use for it later







the glue will prevent the wire from conducting into anything not that led voltage is a huge concern but grounding out of any kind is generally a bad thing


----------



## souldriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That sounds right to me. Have you checked your temperatures?


Its a new build but i just did the first boot. looking at the bios its barely touching the 30s. Splitter main is plugged into the cpu fan, and the pump is on channel 1. I have the block led and the back fan on the splitter too.
Looks like everything is doing fine, thanks for the help.








Now I just need to do some cable maintenance. the 750 d has a lot of room behind it but all the wires want to run near the front making a build up.


----------



## tacomaster

So I build a new rig in the Corsair 350D and "accidentally" got the H240X (was planning on just doing the H220X), but with the use of my handy Dremel got it installed and it looks sweet.









Everything is running nice and cool but I am trying to figure out if the pump is quietly ticking or just me hallucinating. Once that is done, time to OC.


----------



## Gavush

look carefully at the impeller w/ a flashlight while the pump is on and when it is off, you may see some tiny air bubbles that get stuck in the impeller vanes. a few on/off sessions was what it took to clear my impeller. You can do this by disconnecting and reconnecting the SATA connector rather than shutting down, just don't leave it unplugged for more than a second or two. Long enough to wind down.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> look carefully at the impeller w/ a flashlight while the pump is on and when it is off, you may see some tiny air bubbles that get stuck in the impeller vanes. a few on/off sessions was what it took to clear my impeller. You can do this by disconnecting and reconnecting the SATA connector rather than shutting down, just don't leave it unplugged for more than a second or two. Long enough to wind down.


this...if you get enough of them you get the running water sound as you get then out the sound will go away


----------



## Machinist125

Hi,
How do I become a member of the club ?

Danny


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Machinist125*
> 
> Hi,
> How do I become a member of the club ?
> 
> Danny


Hi Danny! I am glad you have interest in joining the club. First you need to gain prestige with Mr Bram. Once that is accomplished you must obtain a sponsor. You and the sponsor must compete in a two man sack race on conservative Sundays until a champion is crowned.
Seriously though i think you just need to provide proof of your cooler that you are using to get added


----------



## Machinist125

Thanks Grave Digger.

Ill post pics up as soon as I get it installed.



Danny


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Dude Danny that is awesome its like a test bench and a case? What casevis that?


----------



## Machinist125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Dude Danny that is awesome its like a test bench and a case? What casevis that?


Thanks man.
It's the Cooler Master HAF XB Evo.

I just joined that club too. LOL


----------



## Robertdt

Hi all. If you could chime in with your experiences on my thread about getting an H220x as a first time watercooler I would really appreciate it. http://www.overclock.net/t/1528907/swiftech-h220x-questions-for-first-time-watercooling
Rep for all replies as well.


----------



## fleetfeather

@Bram, have you had any requests for H240-X or H220-X stock from Australian retailers?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

My fatal mistake... I was trying to wait for Frozencpu to get the H240-X in stock and buy it from there. Well At swiftech's website they had some in stock for a very short time but I did have the opportunity to buy one. Long story short I ended up placing an order at Swiftech anyways for their Lok-Seal fittings, but by the time I did the H240X was sold out already. I am kicking myself for not grabbing it!


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> My fatal mistake... I was trying to wait for Frozencpu to get the H240-X in stock and buy it from there. Well At swiftech's website they had some in stock for a very short time but I did have the opportunity to buy one. Long story short I ended up placing an order at Swiftech anyways for their Lok-Seal fittings, but by the time I did the H240X was sold out already. I am kicking myself for not grabbing it!


Same here...I was checking the swiftech site periodically, but missed it. @Bram, is there a notification/email list we can get on so we know when these things are in stock?

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Same here...I was checking the swiftech site periodically, but missed it. @Bram, is there a notification/email list we can get on so we know when these things are in stock?
> 
> Thanks!


These kits should be back in stock towards the end of the week. Unfortunately we don't have an email notification system. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## CoolProject

Hello boys, between the Swiftech H240x and Swiftech H320 according to you who cools better?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> Hello boys, between the Swiftech H240x and Swiftech H320 according to you who cools better?


I do not know for certain, but what I can tell you is without a doubt the H240X is more awesome.


----------



## cephelix

given the rad space, i would have to go with the 320...but thn again, i don't have that much experience. only have an expanded h220 kit...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolProject*
> 
> Hello boys, between the Swiftech H240x and Swiftech H320 according to you who cools better?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> given the rad space, i would have to go with the 320...but thn again, i don't have that much experience. only have an expanded h220 kit...


In our own testing the results were so close that they were within the margin of error.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> In our own testing the results were so close that they were within the margin of error.


at stock right? But given the increased rad space of the 320 once the loop is expanded and more components cooled by it the 320 should edge out infront of the 240x


----------



## VSG

A 280mm rad (140*280) has just a bit lower frontal surface area than a 360mm rad (120*360). This is assuming the core is the size of the fans used of course. It would come down to the effectiveness of the fans used more than the radiator itself.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A 280mm rad (140*280) has just a bit lower frontal surface area than a 360mm rad (120*360). This is assuming the core is the size of the fans used of course. It would come down to the effectiveness of the fans used more than the radiator itself.


Thanks for that


----------



## turokk




----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turokk*


looking spiffy.....any plans to include the gpu in the loop? and if the pump could sit parallel to the side window...it would be complete


----------



## turokk

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> looking spiffy.....any plans to include the gpu in the loop? and if the pump could sit parallel to the side window...it would be complete


I am. maybe in a couple of months tho. what do you mean parallel to the side window?


----------



## cephelix

oh, my bad..i thought your flow meter was your pump.....i meant your flow meter


----------



## shadow85

Is it normal for the rad fans to blow really hot air? I have my H240X on top of my case blowing the air outwards from the top in a Luxe case.

Whem I put my hands over the top, the air is pretty hot. Is this normal? My cpu temps on the i5-4670K 4.0GHz reach 65°C with normal use, gaming browsing etc, no benchmarking. Because Prime95 made it easily 75°C and rising, so I dont benchmark it.


----------



## cephelix

that's good...that means that the kit is doing it's job.anyways,what version of p95 do you have?i've heard the 28.5 one doesn't play nice with devil's canyon.the earlier 27 something is better....


----------



## GraveDigger7878

That is it I need white case lighting to illuminate my stuffs. I am thinking of maybe a strip of LEDs, does anyone recommend a particular brand?


----------



## cephelix

just white? no rgb?


----------



## emsj86

Icemodz.com sell great leds there no expensive a lot cheaper than say nzxt or bitfenix and they work great. In this picture there is two 30cm white leds that were 8 with shipping It's a phone picture so it's kinda crappy but trust me it's brighter in real life. Also they come sleeved and with 3m sticky tape on them which had up great. usd


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Is it normal for the rad fans to blow really hot air? I have my H240X on top of my case blowing the air outwards from the top in a Luxe case.
> 
> Whem I put my hands over the top, the air is pretty hot. Is this normal? My cpu temps on the i5-4670K 4.0GHz reach 65°C with normal use, gaming browsing etc, no benchmarking. Because Prime95 made it easily 75°C and rising, so I dont benchmark it.


65c sounds about right for gaming. Yes, you are exhausting hot air from the rads and that's how it should be. Air will be cool if you switch the fans to intake.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> 65c sounds about right for gaming. Yes, you are exhausting hot air from the rads and that's how it should be. Air will be cool if you switch the fans to intake.


Yes I am exhausting the air. But the air is so hot, I feel like it is going to melt the mesh ontop of the case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Yes I am exhausting the air. But the air is so hot, I feel like it is going to melt the mesh ontop of the case.


What case are you using and what makes you think it will melt the mesh? Do you see it already starting to warp?


----------



## emsj86

It won't melt. Your gpu is pumping hot air out and the rad is getting rid of your cpu beat so it will be hot air. But it's not hot enough to melt by far unless your case is made of Chocolate


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Swiftech stop running out of products! I decided I wanted to get a few 45° swivel adapters to put less bend on my tubing. It seems that the chrome ones are in stock but not the black ones that match all my other swiftech compression fittings!

Mr. Bram would you possibly know a possible ETA on the swivel adapters?







Thanks ahead of time.

Does anyone else think it is awesome that a Swiftech rep is ready to respond to our questions, concerns, and difficulties?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Swiftech stop running out of products! I decided I wanted to get a few 45° swivel adapters to put less bend on my tubing. It seems that the chrome ones are in stock but not the black ones that match all my other swiftech compression fittings!
> 
> Mr. Bram would you possibly know a possible ETA on the swivel adapters?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> Does anyone else think it is awesome that a Swiftech rep is ready to respond to our questions, concerns, and difficulties?


I know that they're on order, but as of right now I don't have an ETA on those. I'll try to find out and get back to you. You can PM me about this so that I'll be reminded to respond to you once I find out.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Does anyone else think it is awesome that a Swiftech rep is ready to respond to our questions, concerns, and difficulties?


I do...A whole lot of companies get too large and overly complicated and they lose sight of what good customer service is...growth is a part of business otherwise you wouldn't stay in business but good customer service will win you more return customers than loads of products (no matter how good) you can't get support on...I personally bought from swiftech because of that reputation and will likely buy a lot more in the future because of that fact...hats off to swiftech


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Yes I am exhausting the air. But the air is so hot, I feel like it is going to melt the mesh ontop of the case.


Define "hot". Is it as hot as a kettle boiling and the air above it is steaming? Because, that's the only way your case would melt. If that's the case, your CPU wouldn't even be at 65c anymore...


----------



## emsj86

You would be on the I blew up my cpu forum lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> You would be on the I blew up my cpu forum lol


I thought that OCN _*is*_ the "I blew up my CPU" forum.......


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What case are you using and what makes you think it will melt the mesh? Do you see it already starting to warp?


Im using a luxe case. The mesh isn't melting but the air exhausted from the rads is so hot im surprised it hasn't melted. Lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Im using a luxe case. The mesh isn't melting but the air exhausted from the rads is so hot im surprised it hasn't melted. Lol


yeah more than likely the filter would melt first


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Im using a luxe case. The mesh isn't melting but the air exhausted from the rads is so hot im surprised it hasn't melted. Lol


65c on the CPU and being "so hot" makes me think that your definition of hot is of a warm temp. If it's not steaming, then it's not going to melt metal.


----------



## shadow85

No its not steaming ofcourse, but I never realised the air exhausted could be so hot. Its like a heater ontop of my case, and its summer here in Australia to add to it.


----------



## fleetfeather

@BramSLI1 nice one!



http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx

Bit salty that a 280mm version isn't available, but I definitely understand the rationale to only offer the 140mm version (pretty confident this is aimed at inexpensive gpu-only loops, as per previous discussions in this thread)


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftech Website*
> 
> As a standalone item, the MCR140-X Drive is a perfect DIY solution for users who already own an all-in-one CPU cooler, and simply wish to install a secondary cooling system for one or several liquid cooled graphics cards without tearing down their existing cooling system.
> The MCR140-X can also be used as the foundation for a CPU cooling system in space constrained applications by simply adding a CPU waterblock and relevant accessories,
> or it can be used as a secondary pump/radiator/reservoir combo in complex systems requiring two pumps in series.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'd personally prefer to see the Rad/Res/Pump combo together as an additional buying option. I can see it working in a few scenarios:
> 
> - Redundancy pump that doesn't take up a large area
> - Extra fill-and-bleed area for those people with otherwise hard to bleed setups
> - Cost-effective option for people who already have a block that they feel works well with their system


Called it


----------



## turokk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> That is it I need white case lighting to illuminate my stuffs. I am thinking of maybe a strip of LEDs, does anyone recommend a particular brand?


i use Logisys LDXRM12C 12-Inch Self Adhesive Flexible and Extendible Strip with Color and Pattern Changing Remote Control


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I actually just received my MCR140X in the mail. I am using it mostly for a redundancy pump. This is my plan

H240X > CPU > MCR140X >GPU > GPU > 280mm Rad > H240X.

I wanted to add another 280mm rad so I had 1 double rad for each component but my CM Storm Stryker would need some modification.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Anyone have recommendations for a second reservoir if I'm looking to expand and also wanted to make it easier to bleed and drain? I'm currently thinking about ordering the swiftech micro res v2 because it's small and gives me multiple mounting choices. I'd like to add this towards the bottom of my loop so make bleeding the system and draining easier.
My other option was the Alphacool Pro 10 LT but it is currently out of stock.


----------



## Xaeos

Having just received the makings of an excellent new upgrade to X99 as a present, I'm in the market for a new cooling solution. I'm going to be cooling my new 5960x, which I hope to run at an all-day stable OC of ideally 4.5ghz (HT on and other beneficial settings etc.). My options come down to either AIO liquid, or a full custom liquid cooling system. I'm wondering if, given the threshold for how these chips behave and whatnot, that it won't be worth the considerable time and financial cost of building a custom loop over using Swiftech's offering. Given the research I've done, it appears that the Swiftech H220-X and H240-X are pretty much the best AIOs by leaps and bounds, due to using custom quality components.. While I still haven't made any final decisions, I've run into one major problem.

Between the two, I was going to go for the H240-X for the additional quiet and slightly improved performance. Unfortunately, it appears that my Corsair Obsidian 800D case is not compatible with the H240-X. The 800D has served me well since the X58 days, but its top radiator location is only made for 120mm fan rads so the mounting/spacing and just the width of the grill won't work with a 140mm fan radiator like the H240-X! Has anyone by chance installed a H240-X in a Corsair 800D somehow? Ideally, without the necessity of tool-required modding?

If it simply won't work or is extremely labor/time intensive, it seems to me the simplest solution would be to buy the H220-X instead, which will have no problem fitting in the 800D. From those that have used one, ideally with a significant Haswell-E overclock, will the H220-X provide sufficient cooling for the goals I wish to reach as listed above? Thanks!


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaeos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]Having just received the makings of an excellent new upgrade to X99 as a present, I'm in the market for a new cooling solution. I'm going to be cooling my new 5960x, which I hope to run at an all-day stable OC of ideally 4.5ghz (HT on and other beneficial settings etc.). My options come down to either AIO liquid, or a full custom liquid cooling system. I'm wondering if, given the threshold for how these chips behave and whatnot, that it won't be worth the considerable time and financial cost of building a custom loop over using Swiftech's offering. Given the research I've done, it appears that the Swiftech H220-X and H240-X are pretty much the best AIOs by leaps and bounds, due to using custom quality components.. While I still haven't made any final decisions, I've run into one major problem.
> 
> Between the two, I was going to go for the H240-X for the additional quiet and slightly improved performance. Unfortunately, it appears that my Corsair Obsidian 800D case is not compatible with the H240-X. The 800D has served me well since the X58 days, but its top radiator location is only made for 120mm fan rads so the mounting/spacing and just the width of the grill won't work with a 140mm fan radiator like the H240-X! Has anyone by chance installed a H240-X in a Corsair 800D somehow? Ideally, without the necessity of tool-required modding?
> 
> If it simply won't work or is extremely labor/time intensive, it seems to me the simplest solution would be to buy the H220-X instead, which will have no problem fitting in the 800D. From those that have used one, ideally with a significant Haswell-E overclock, will the H220-X provide sufficient cooling for the goals I wish to reach as listed above? Thanks!


The 220-x should be fine. My 5820k OC'd to 4.5Ghz at 1.3V is sufficiently cooled by my 240x keeping load temps under 70C. I think the 220-X shouldn't have any problems keeping the 5960X below 80C under load.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for a second reservoir if I'm looking to expand and also wanted to make it easier to bleed and drain? I'm currently thinking about ordering the swiftech micro res v2 because it's small and gives me multiple mounting choices. I'd like to add this towards the bottom of my loop so make bleeding the system and draining easier.
> My other option was the Alphacool Pro 10 LT but it is currently out of stock.


Maybe XSPC Photon 170?
I saw people use and top fill port as Inlet.


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys if I currently have a H240-X installed, I was wondering how difficult is it to add liquid cooling to 2 GPU's?

I don't want to go into any full custom expansion or anything like that as I don't have any knowledge in that area and do not want to really invest the time in it either. I was wondering if there is a solution to add liquid cooling to 2 GPU's that's as easy as installing the H240-X?

I saw this and thought maybe this is something I should look into for liquid cooling 2 GPU's:

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx

What do you guys rekon? I am using a Luxe case btw and have 2 MSI GTX 980 Gamings.


----------



## cephelix

let's see if I get this right; you don't want to expand your current 240x but looking to add 1 x 140X per gpu so a total of 2 x 140X?
also, are you planning to overclock your 980s much? or just keeping them at stock?


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> let's see if I get this right; you don't want to expand your current 240x but looking to add 1 x 140X per gpu so a total of 2 x 140X?
> also, are you planning to overclock your 980s much? or just keeping them at stock?


Well I don't mind expanding the 240-X if it will not require alot of extra parts and difficulty.

Otherwise the other option I mentioned or anything else that is relativly simple to do if any exist.

I do not know what it will require to add 2 GPU's to a liquid cooling setup. Also yes I will OC the GPU's if their temperatures are below 70°C under load stock.


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Well I don't mind expanding the 240-X if it will not require alot of extra parts and difficulty.
> 
> Otherwise the other option I mentioned or anything else that is relativly simple to do if any exist.
> 
> I do not know what it will require to add 2 GPU's to a liquid cooling setup. Also yes I will OC the GPU's if their temperatures are below 70°C under load stock.


well, a general rule is that you have 120mm of rad space per component in the loop + 120mm extra. So in your case, the bare minimum would be 120mm x 3 (cpu + 2 gpu) + 120mm extra which would give you a total of 480mm of rad space.how you choose to configure the rads would be entirely up to you eg 2 x 240mm, 360mm + 120mm....you get the idea.
Maybe if your ambient temps are low enough you might be able to get away with lesser rad space but i wouldn't risk it. As for the exact components, maybe someone with more experience would be able to guide you along.


----------



## shadow85

Well I already have a 240-X, so I would just need rad for the 2 GPU's i guess?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Well I already have a 240-X, so I would just need rad for the 2 GPU's i guess


yup...so at least another 240mm + hose and fittings


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> yup...so at least another 240mm + hose and fittings


So what about the swiftech MCR140-X + my H240-X. Is that enough for the CPU and 2 GPU's?


----------



## fleetfeather

2 980's and a 4670k off 140x3? could get away with it if you're willing to run high rpm fans, but temps won't be very good.

kinda defeats the purpose of watercooling if your rig is going to run as hot and as loud as aircooling though


----------



## shadow85

Wel actualy it will be in a x99 5930k rig and I plan on overclocking that to atleast 4.0-4.2 GHz.

What about 2x MCR140-X + H240X?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> So what about the swiftech MCR140-X + my H240-X. Is that enough for the CPU and 2 GPU's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> 2 980's and a 4670k off 140x3? could get away with it if you're willing to run high rpm fans, but temps won't be very good.
> 
> kinda defeats the purpose of watercooling if your rig is going to run as hot and as loud as aircooling though


i second what fleetfeather said. You could do it, but you're cutting it real close. If you don't want to, i suggest just cooling your cpu with the kit you have now instead of doing it half-assed. expensive equipment are on the line.....

you'd need at least another 140 for what you're planning to do be viable. but you wouldn't need the product you linked above. you just need the rad. the pump from your 240x should be able to handle the loop. That is of course if you are planning on just running all components in 1 loop.

Either way, the items you'd need to run 1 loop for your setup would be;
1 x 240x
2 x GPU block (full cover or universal)
1 x bridge to connect both gpus
Miscellaneous fittings to connect everything
Tubing(primochill advanced LRT recommended)
Reservoir(may be needed depending on how you're mounting the 240x)

Of course this list is just off the top off my head....if i'm missing something, someone please chime in

Edit, Looking at the MCR140X, even if each GPU has one, meaning in total you'd be running 3 loops, i would say you're cutting it close. at least a 240mm rad per component. Plus, you'd need to apply thermal pads and heatsinks to the VRMs since they wont be cooled by the kit


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> i second what fleetfeather said. You could do it, but you're cutting it real close. If you don't want to, i suggest just cooling your cpu with the kit you have now instead of doing it half-assed. expensive equipment are on the line.....
> 
> you'd need at least another 140 for what you're planning to do be viable. but you wouldn't need the product you linked above. you just need the rad. the pump from your 240x should be able to handle the loop. That is of course if you are planning on just running all components in 1 loop.
> 
> Either way, the items you'd need to run 1 loop for your setup would be;
> 1 x 240x
> 2 x GPU block (full cover or universal)
> 1 x bridge to connect both gpus
> Miscellaneous fittings to connect everything
> Tubing(primochill advanced LRT recommended)
> Reservoir(may be needed depending on how you're mounting the 240x)
> 
> Of course this list is just off the top off my head....if i'm missing something, someone please chime in
> 
> Edit, Looking at the MCR140X, even if each GPU has one, meaning in total you'd be running 3 loops, i would say you're cutting it close. at least a 240mm rad per component. Plus, you'd need to apply thermal pads and heatsinks to the VRMs since they wont be cooled by the kit


Hmm it all sounds alot to me. Im total noob to liquid cooling. Anyways so do the full blocks cool the RAM and VRMS on the GPU?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hmm it all sounds alot to me. Im total noob to liquid cooling. Anyways so do the full blocks cool the RAM and VRMS on the GPU?


we all were.heck, i still am...take your time.there's no rush for you.your system works fine...if your gpus are compatible i.e. reference pcb or if ek makes water blocks for them, then yes, the full covers would cool vrms and vram. Ask around, read the threads...the guys and girls of ocn would be more than willing to help you.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hmm it all sounds alot to me. Im total noob to liquid cooling. Anyways so do the full blocks cool the RAM and VRMS on the GPU?


It is okay Mr. Shadow. What you are trying to accomplish is basically what I am doing. I am putting together a CPU + 2xGPU setup.

I plan on connecting the H240X to the same "Loop" as the graphics cards. This will let the CPU and GPU share the cooling power of the H240X. I also plan on using the MCR140X because not only does it add an additional radiator to the Loop but it adds an additional pump to help pump the coolant. With those two radiators you still do not have enough cooling power for the 2 GPUs and the CPU. My plan is adding one more additional radiator in the front of my case. It will attach to the entire loop so that all 3 radiators will be connected to what I am trying to cool.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

The cool thing is if you want to leave the H240X alone you can use the MCR140X with the 2 GPUS that you have but you will need another radiator to help cool them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> we all were.heck, i still am...take your time.there's no rush for you.your system works fine...if your gpus are compatible i.e. reference pcb or *if ek makes water blocks for them*, then yes, the full covers would cool vrms and vram. Ask around, read the threads...the guys and girls of ocn would be more than willing to help you.


The XSPC Razor and Swiftech Komodo blocks cool the VRM, as well. Actually, if you look around at comparisons, the XSPC blocks tend to be far and away the best in terms of VRM temps, while the EK blocks tend to lag in this area. When I did the comparisons for a couple of reviews I was really surprised at the disparity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> It is okay Mr. Shadow. What you are trying to accomplish is basically what I am doing. I am putting together a CPU + 2xGPU setup.
> 
> I plan on connecting the H240X to the same "Loop" as the graphics cards. This will let the CPU and GPU share the cooling power of the H240X. I also plan on using the MCR140X because not only does it add an additional radiator to the Loop but it adds an additional pump to help pump the coolant. With those two radiators you still do not have enough cooling power for the 2 GPUs and the CPU. My plan is adding one more additional radiator in the front of my case. It will attach to the entire loop so that all 3 radiators will be connected to what I am trying to cool.


That is going to be a nice setup. You are probably going to be very, very surprised at how well the 280+140 cools. That is actually slightly _larger_ than a 360+120 or a pair of 240s in terms of surface area.

There is a lot of mentions of the 120mm for each component, plus 120mm extra going on. At the same time people seem to be discounting just how big a difference there is in surface area between 120 and 140 based radiators.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> It is okay Mr. Shadow. What you are trying to accomplish is basically what I am doing. I am putting together a CPU + 2xGPU setup.
> 
> I plan on connecting the H240X to the same "Loop" as the graphics cards. This will let the CPU and GPU share the cooling power of the H240X. I also plan on using the MCR140X because not only does it add an additional radiator to the Loop but it adds an additional pump to help pump the coolant. With those two radiators you still do not have enough cooling power for the 2 GPUs and the CPU. My plan is adding one more additional radiator in the front of my case. It will attach to the entire loop so that all 3 radiators will be connected to what I am trying to cool.


That sounds interesting to me, I think this is what I want to do. But I am not sure where to start lol.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> That sounds interesting to me, I think this is what I want to do. But I am not sure where to start lol.


1) Go to frozencpu / performance-pc
2) Add items that was suggested to you into cart
3) Pay
4) Wait and receive items
5) Read tutorials, watch videos on youtube on beginners water cooling
6) Start your project

I don't know how else to put it, water cooling is not as hard as it seems. Time consuming, definitely, depending on the complexity. But it's quite easy by following a few simple rules. If you're still afraid to do so but want a water cooling setup, pay someone to do it for you (it won't be cheap).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> That sounds interesting to me, I think this is what I want to do. But I am not sure where to start lol.


PM me and I'll see if I can steer you towards some good tutorials and give you some advice depending on your hardware.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> 1) Go to frozencpu / performance-pc
> 2) Add items that was suggested to you into cart
> 3) Pay
> 4) Wait and receive items
> 5) Read tutorials, watch videos on youtube on beginners water cooling
> 6) Start your project
> 
> I don't know how else to put it, water cooling is not as hard as it seems. Time consuming, definitely, depending on the complexity. But it's quite easy by following a few simple rules. If you're still afraid to do so but want a water cooling setup, pay someone to do it for you (it won't be cheap).


I think the best way to learn and plan a loop is to do MSpaint prototypes. I've got a folder of 36 different prototypes for 3 different mitx builds, checking the types of angle fittings i want, rad thicknesses, pump/res combos, etc.

If only I had enough cash to import a H240X







xmas shopping has destroyed my watercooling funds hah...


----------



## Gil80

Hi all,

Can someone please tell me if this tubing: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_853&products_id=24791 can replace Swiftech's H220 tubing?
And if they are any good...

Thanks!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this tubing: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_853&products_id=24791 can replace Swiftech's H220 tubing?
> And if they are any good...
> 
> Thanks!


you can use 3/8" ID tubing, but if you aren't using 5/8" OD tubing, you will have to buy respective clamps for it, as the stock units are 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD


----------



## tongerks

hi i would like to ask if h240x will fit in top of fractal arc mini r2 case?


----------



## ban25

Any update on the H-240x stock?

Thanks!


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Any update on the H-240x stock?
> 
> Thanks!


Soon, get your F5 key ready


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The XSPC Razor and Swiftech Komodo blocks cool the VRM, as well. Actually, if you look around at comparisons, the XSPC blocks tend to be far and away the best in terms of VRM temps, while the EK blocks tend to lag in this area. When I did the comparisons for a couple of reviews I was really surprised at the disparity.
> That is going to be a nice setup. You are probably going to be very, very surprised at how well the 280+140 cools. That is actually slightly _larger_ than a 360+120 or a pair of 240s in terms of surface area.
> 
> There is a lot of mentions of the 120mm for each component, plus 120mm extra going on. At the same time people seem to be discounting just how big a difference there is in surface area between 120 and 140 based radiators.


I thought EK blocks were know to have really good VRM cooling or is that just for the Titan and 780s?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I thought EK blocks were know to have really good VRM cooling or is that just for the Titan and 780s?


I recall coming across one article that showed that and was rather surprised. I benched the 780/Titan blocks (Swiftech benched was the LE, not standard) and 290X blocks. I probably shouldn't have made that statement as much of a blanket as I did since it will vary from card to card.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I was freaking out a little bit because I bought EK blacks for my Titans because they were supposed to be the best lol.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I was freaking out a little bit because I bought EK blacks for my Titans because they were supposed to be the best lol.


No worries - the EK are great blocks. You also have to keep perspective with full cover blocks - in a worst case scenario you wind up saying things like "my VRM temps only dropped 40 degrees from the air cooling and not 42!". The differences among the major manufacturers are incredibly small in almost all cases.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

@BramSLI1is the o ring in the block that comes with the H220-X a standard size I can get somewhere local...I just lost mine down a sink drain







I forgot to take it out before spraying it out....I am speaking of the actual o ring in the center bit the squared outer gasket type


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> @BramSLI1is the o ring in the block that comes with the H220-X a standard size I can get somewhere local...I just lost mine down a sink drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take it out before spraying it out....I am speaking of the actual o ring in the center bit the squared outer gasket type


Not that I'm aware of. Email me about this at [email protected] and I'll see what I can do for you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> @BramSLI1is the o ring in the block that comes with the H220-X a standard size I can get somewhere local...I just lost mine down a sink drain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take it out before spraying it out....I am speaking of the actual o ring in the center bit the squared outer gasket type
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I'm aware of. Email me about this at [email protected] and I'll see what I can do for you.
Click to expand...

this is why i love swiftech !

also FYI from what i saw the gunk was more or less normal not that you want to see it but looks like stuff that is new rads and blocks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is why i love swiftech !
> 
> also FYI from what i saw the gunk was more or less normal not that you want to see it but looks like stuff that is new rads and blocks


Thanks for that. I appreciate it. What gunk are you talking about though?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> So I'm an idiot I decided since I had to remove the bottom rad to fit the new psu I might as well break down the loop and see why I'm not cooling as well as I should be.... I disassembled the cpu block and found a little debris in there and also a little sludgy stuff on the top half of the block...pictures in a minute..
> 
> .But I said I'll just wash this thing out with the sprayer...took the "box" gasket out started spraying....yeah looks nice and clean now...almost too clean....because I shot my o ring down the damn sink drain lol...so now I finished putting her PC together and mines down pending an o ring for cpu block...But I think I can just clear the fittings on the rad with psu plugs if I put the plugs in first install both parts then put fittings and plumb the rad...it's gonna be damned tight...


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Soon, get your F5 key ready


Got it!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for that. I appreciate it. What gunk are you talking about though?


email was sent last night the same pictures are attached in it... The black is shavings from tubing I thought I got it all cleaned out the "gunk is the whitish stuff on the top of the block... I'm guessing I didn't rinse hot enough or maybe not long enough


----------



## big_aug

So I bought an h110 for my upcoming build based on some good reviews. Upon further research, it doesn't look as good as I thought. Would the 240x be a lot better? I feel like it would. I can easily return the unopened h110 to amazon for a refund. I can't find any reviews though. I did look through this thread and see it will fit my carbide air 540. Is the h240x definitely much better than the corsair h110? Going to be OCing a 5930k.


----------



## emsj86

I know it's off topic but I've dealt with the people here a lot and trust there info. I'm getting a i7 4790k. What's some good overclock mother boards for them 125-200 range outside of the gb soc or hero


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> So I bought an h110 for my upcoming build based on some good reviews. Upon further research, it doesn't look as good as I thought. Would the 240x be a lot better? I feel like it would. I can easily return the unopened h110 to amazon for a refund. I can't find any reviews though. I did look through this thread and see it will fit my carbide air 540. Is the h240x definitely much better than the corsair h110? Going to be OCing a 5930k.


yes anything swiftech makes would be much better then anything asetroll makes


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it's off topic but I've dealt with the people here a lot and trust there info. I'm getting a i7 4790k. What's some good overclock mother boards for them 125-200 range outside of the gb soc or hero


i've heard good things about the gigabyte gaming 7 and the asrock extreme 6 (?)...head over the z97 vrm info thread to learn more.on my phone so thinga are a bit of a pita


----------



## Robertdt

Hi everyone. I just installed the H220x last evening, and so far I'm really happy with my CPU temps (35 C Idle, 50-60 C load, 80 C Prime 3770k 4.7 ghz 1.33v).

I've noticed my case is quite a bit warmer, however. I have the fans in a pull configuration at the moment, pulling air into the case across the radiator with a fan at the rear port for exhaust. Is it normal for you to feel palpable amounts of heat coming from the radiator / pump area? I mean I can put my hand next to the radiator and can feel it, well, radiating heat ... I'm just surprised at how much as I don't remember my air cooler giving off this much heat. My GPU is also overheating a bit as well.

Is the heat a radiator gives off into the case problematic for other nearby components like ram, sound card, etc?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hi everyone. I just installed the H220x last evening, and so far I'm really happy with my CPU temps (35 C Idle, 50-60 C load, 80 C Prime 3770k 4.7 ghz 1.33v).
> 
> I've noticed my case is quite a bit warmer, however. I have the fans in a pull configuration at the moment, pulling air into the case across the radiator with a fan at the rear port for exhaust. Is it normal for you to feel palpable amounts of heat coming from the radiator / pump area? I mean I can put my hand next to the radiator and can feel it, well, radiating heat ... I'm just surprised at how much as I don't remember my air cooler giving off this much heat. My GPU is also overheating a bit as well.
> 
> Is the heat a radiator gives off into the case problematic for other nearby components like ram, sound card, etc?


It's normal for it to radiate heat. You should try switching your fans around to exhaust. You're probably gonna increase your temps a little bit but you won't accumulate dust as fast and that hot air won't get into the case warming up you're other components. I have mine exhausting and temps are still good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> So I bought an h110 for my upcoming build based on some good reviews. Upon further research, it doesn't look as good as I thought. Would the 240x be a lot better? I feel like it would. I can easily return the unopened h110 to amazon for a refund. I can't find any reviews though. I did look through this thread and see it will fit my carbide air 540. Is the h240x definitely much better than the corsair h110? Going to be OCing a 5930k.


I compared the H240-X to the NZXT X61 here - http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review

The X61 is a gen later version of the H110 with better fans included - so it is naturally a better performer than the H110 - and the H240-X is vastly superior in every aspect.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Got it!


Same here! So close to having everything complete!


----------



## GameZForeverZ

Hey guys, I am considering picking up a H220/240L and I am wondering if you guys think the pumps on these things would be powerful enough to replace the 240mm radiator with a 540mm radiator and possibly a GPU to it.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> It's normal for it to radiate heat. You should try switching your fans around to exhaust. You're probably gonna increase your temps a little bit but you won't accumulate dust as fast and that hot air won't get into the case warming up you're other components. I have mine exhausting and temps are still good.


How did you get the screws off of the fan to switch the fans around? They are kind of in between the fins on the fan and I can't fit my screwdriver in there to unscrew them.


----------



## KlinkKlink

Hey there! I could use some help here. I seem to have a bit of noise trouble with my H220 from what I assume is air bubbles caught in the loop.

I have had this odd rattling sound coming from the pump for quite a while now. It acted up for the first time about six months ago whenever I turned on my computer, but it dissipated after about 15 minutes, so I payed it no mind. But now It has gradually gotten worse. Now the noise will vary wildly in loudness as it goes on for hours on end, stop, and continue on for another few hours.

If it is air bubbles, how am I supposed to get them out of the loop? My cooler is around 1 year old now. Do I have to replace the coolant or something like that? Please help me! The noise is driving me nuts, man! Thanks in advance.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> How did you get the screws off of the fan to switch the fans around? They are kind of in between the fins on the fan and I can't fit my screwdriver in there to unscrew them.


I have a skinny screwdriver that fits through the holes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KlinkKlink*
> 
> Hey there! I could use some help here. I seem to have a bit of noise trouble with my H220 from what I assume is air bubbles caught in the loop.
> 
> I have had this odd rattling sound coming from the pump for quite a while now. It acted up for the first time about six months ago whenever I turned on my computer, but it dissipated after about 15 minutes, so I payed it no mind. But now It has gradually gotten worse. Now the noise will vary wildly in loudness as it goes on for hours on end, stop, and continue on for another few hours.
> 
> If it is air bubbles, how am I supposed to get them out of the loop? My cooler is around 1 year old now. Do I have to replace the coolant or something like that? Please help me! The noise is driving me nuts, man! Thanks in advance.


There is an instruction in the first page that should help you to alleviate your noise issue. Please give that a try. If it doesn't work then PM me because I may have a few other things for you to try at that point.


----------



## kevindd992002

With the H220X waterblock, is it still recommended to apply a pea-sized TIM on top of the Intel 2600K because of its heatspreader?


----------



## Mega Man

all excluding 2011 a pea is recommended due to die size on 2011 a line is recommended going in the proper direction


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all excluding 2011 a pea is recommended due to die size on 2011 a line is recommended going in the proper direction


Just as I thought. And "less is more" is still applicable to the pea-sized method, right?

And by the way, this is weird but the H220X I got doesn't have shiny tubings. All the pics I see all over the Internet show shiny tubings that reflects light.


----------



## choLOL

The H220x and H240x finally arrived in my country!







Does anyone know if the H240x fits in the Phantom 410? I can put 2x 140mm fans at the top of the case. If it won't, I'll just get the H220x.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> The H220x and H240x finally arrived in my country!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the H240x fits in the Phantom 410? I can put 2x 140mm fans at the top of the case. If it won't, I'll just get the H220x.


I'm assuming this is in the Philippines? Because I just got one last Saturday from our distributor.


----------



## choLOL

^ Yeah, just saw it on PCHub's facebook page.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> if the H240x fits in the Phantom 410?


Wecells think that it will fit clearly, if youcells attach the fans to the radiator through the top panel, so that the fans are outside the metal panel, and the radiator inside.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NZXT/Phantom_410/images/casetopoff.jpg

There is no clear picture of how much clearance there is from the top panel to the motherboard, so if there is enough, it might even fit into the case by screwing the fans attached to the radiator to the top panel inside???

Youcells could measure of how much clearance there is from the top panel to the motherboard and see, if it's more than 55mm (fans+radiator) or is it better to attach the 29mm radiator only (clearance less than 54mm) to the top panel.

The 280mm radiator might block 2 of the upper 5,25" optical bays, but if youcells do have only one optical drive, it could still be installed to the lowest bay. By radiator only inside, there might be enough room for two drives? (Edit: Yourcells computer listing shows no optical or other 5,25" devices, so youcells can ignore this part.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NZXT/Phantom_410/images/innertop.jpg

Hope this helps.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> H220X I got doesn't have shiny tubings. All the pics I see all over the Internet show shiny tubings that reflects light.


This might be because the original tube manufacturer stopped producing that shiny black tube, and Swiftech changed the tube to another that might also be no plasticizer including tube = better ones.

So @BramSLI might tell if ourcells hunch got it right?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> This might be because the original tube manufacturer stopped producing that shiny black tube, and Swiftech changed the tube to another that might also be no plasticizer including tube = better ones.
> 
> So @BramSLI might tell if ourcells hunch got it right?


They still make that shiny black tubing, but we cells switched in order to resolve the plasticizer issue. This new tubing is a durable rubber that won't plasticize.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> They still make that shiny black tubing, but we cells switched in order to resolve the plasticizer issue. This new tubing is a durable rubber that won't plasticize.


And what disadvantage does plasticizers have?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And what disadvantage does plasticizers have?


breaks down over time gunking up tubes, blocks, fittings, and rads... The Primo chill advanced LRT supposedly won't plasticize nor with any noreprene tubing which I think is what swiftech switched too


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And what disadvantage does plasticizers have?


As many have complained (myself included). It builds up in the radiator and pump potentially causing temp increases. This happened to me. I had to clean out the radiator and disassemble the pump/block. My temps where in the 60's just idling. There was massive pasticizer buildup on the other side of the cpu block. When i cleaned it, my temps where back to normal.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> As many have complained (myself included). It builds up in the radiator and pump potentially causing temp increases. This happened to me. I had to clean out the radiator and disassemble the pump/block. My temps where in the 60's just idling. There was massive pasticizer buildup on the other side of the cpu block. When i cleaned it, my temps where back to normal.


Got it. Thanks. I'm glad I got the updated version of the H220-X then.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. Thanks. I'm glad I got the updated version of the H220-X then.


yeah its great to see a company putting out a good product and also improving upon it whilst creating new concepts as well most companies just v pump it out then move on...


----------



## big_aug

I initiated the return of my H110 and ordered the h240-x from Swiftech on Amazon. The shipping on their site was $20 for UPS Ground! Looking forward to getting it.


----------



## choLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Wecells think that it will fit clearly, if youcells attach the fans to the radiator through the top panel, so that the fans are outside the metal panel, and the radiator inside.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NZXT/Phantom_410/images/casetopoff.jpg
> 
> There is no clear picture of how much clearance there is from the top panel to the motherboard, so if there is enough, it might even fit into the case by screwing the fans attached to the radiator to the top panel inside???
> 
> Youcells could measure of how much clearance there is from the top panel to the motherboard and see, if it's more than 55mm (fans+radiator) or is it better to attach the 29mm radiator only (clearance less than 54mm) to the top panel.
> 
> The 280mm radiator might block 2 of the upper 5,25" optical bays, but if youcells do have only one optical drive, it could still be installed to the lowest bay. By radiator only inside, there might be enough room for two drives? (Edit: Yourcells computer listing shows no optical or other 5,25" devices, so youcells can ignore this part.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NZXT/Phantom_410/images/innertop.jpg
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thanks. +rep


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> So I bought an h110 for my upcoming build based on some good reviews. Upon further research, it doesn't look as good as I thought. Would the 240x be a lot better? I feel like it would. I can easily return the unopened h110 to amazon for a refund. I can't find any reviews though. I did look through this thread and see it will fit my carbide air 540. Is the h240x definitely much better than the corsair h110? Going to be OCing a 5930k.


I have an H110 currently and I'll be replacing it with a H240-X just as soon as it arrives. I'll do a detailed set of before & after tests (OCCT, Prime95, etc.). It should be here in a few days.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

So does the regular truFlex tubing that swiftech sells plastisize?


----------



## kevindd992002

The backplate that comes with the H220-X has a plastic that is not "sticked" to the backplate itself, right? It's just like hanging over it to protect the motherboard components from being shorted out?

Also, does it really need pressure to install the backplate? I was able to install it but it needed me to press on the four corners hard for them to stick inside those 1155 mounting holes which is the first time I've experience with all the backplates I've installed.


----------



## kevindd992002

I have a very big problem with my HAF 922 purchase. I was able to the whole rad+fan combo inside the HAF 922 case (a very tight fit because it's interfering a little bit with the CPU power connector on the upper left hand side) but the main problem I'm having is the mounting holes won't line up! Apparently, the mounting holes of the 2x120mm fans on the top of a HAF 922 are for 120mm fans that have about 0.25" space between them so all 8 holes don't line up. I'm at a loss here and very frustrated with this case. Do you guys have any suggestions?

The pic here is a good pic of the same issue: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/10148-haf922-corsair-h100/

Sorry for the double post.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> I have a skinny screwdriver that fits through the holes.


I see. I looked at some at the store a few days ago but I thought the "head" of the screw would be too small to turn it without stripping it if it fit through the hole.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I see. I looked at some at the store a few days ago but I thought the "head" of the screw would be too small to turn it without stripping it if it fit through the hole.


The screws shouldn't be tight at all. You should have no problem removing them with smaller screwdriver.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:
Originally Posted by *kevindd992002* 



> I'm at a loss here and very frustrated with this case. Do you guys have any suggestions?


If youcells just screw the 4 screws (longer ones through the fan = trickier installing) of the fan above the pump/ res, they should hold the weight of the H220X without the 4 more screws of the second fan.

Otherwise just drill the correct holes to the top panel if youcells wish to screw all the 8 screws in place.

If youcells want to change the whole case as more watercooling friendly case, then there are those available with a price tag.


----------



## VSG

One each on mine were. Enough to not enable switching from intake to exhaust.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> If youcells just screw the 4 screws (longer ones through the fan = trickier installing) of the fan above the pump/ res, they should hold the weight of the H220X without the 4 more screws of the second fan.
> 
> Otherwise just drill the correct holes to the top panel if youcells wish to screw all the 8 screws in place.
> 
> If youcells want to change the whole case as more watercooling friendly case, then there are those available with a price tag.


Oh ok. What do you mean "longer ones through the fan = trickier installing"? Are you assuming that the fans will be installed outside of the case?

I'm also considering zip ties if all else fails to hold the other 4.

Oh and btw, the tight fit does put some pressure to the CPU connector in such a way that it bends a little bit but not enough to like damage anything. That would be fine, right? I mean, they're all soldered up and the only that's bending a little bit is the plastic part of the connector anyway?


----------



## shadow85

Is 65-70C a decent temperature for 100% load for 5 minutes on all 6 cores of a 5930K @ 4.2 GHz @ 1.21v?

Or should I be getting better temps with a swiftech H240-X in a Luxe case.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 1. What do you mean "longer ones through the fan = trickier installing"? Are you assuming that the fans will be installed outside of the case?
> 
> 2. the tight fit does put some pressure to the CPU connector in such a way that it bends a little bit but not enough to like damage anything. That would be fine, right? I mean, they're all soldered up and the only that's bending a little bit is the plastic part of the connector anyway?


1. Wecells mean that youcells unscrew the fan that's on top of the reservoir / pump and keep the other fan screwed to the radiator.

Then take 4 of those 30 mm screws that came with the H220X and place the case sideways/ place the one loose fan attached to the top panel inside with those long screws from the outside



and then slide the H220X radiator to its place, and try to fasten the long screws to the radiator.

There is this possibility, that the loose fan and the loose long screws, don't wish to do as youcells would like, so that's the trickier part to get the screws to their threads on radiator.









2. If it's just slightly pushing the connector ( around 1- 2 mm), it shouldn't make any harm to the soldering pins. (Do youcells have a picture of it?)


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Wecells and youcells?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> 1. Wecells mean that youcells unscrew the fan that's on top of the reservoir / pump and keep the other fan screwed to the radiator.
> 
> Then take 4 of those 30 mm screws that came with the H220X and place the case sideways/ place the one loose fan attached to the top panel inside with those long screws from the outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then slide the H220X radiator to its place, and try to fasten the long screws to the radiator.
> 
> There is this possibility, that the loose fan and the loose long screws, don't wish to do as youcells would like, so that's the trickier part to get the screws to their threads on radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. If it's just slightly pushing the connector ( around 1- 2 mm), it shouldn't make any harm to the soldering pins. (Do youcells have a picture of it?)


1. I got most part of it but why would you still use the long 30mm fan screws and why not just the normal screws? Do long screws distribute more weight?

2. I'm not sure if it's that slight but I can see the bend. I'll try taking a picture of it later today.


----------



## shadow85

Sometimes my idle temps are ~22C and sometimes it's ~35C :S


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Wecells and youcells?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Sometimes my idle temps are ~22C and sometimes it's ~35C :S


Check your actual CPU usage during these times. You likely have background tasks going on and the CPU is not actually fully at idle at the times of the higher temps. This is normal and nothing to be concerned with.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Wecells and youcells?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> 1. Do long screws distribute more weight?


It's not the screw length per se, but the material between the connection points.

Example 1: Fan bolted to the radiator as it is "out of the packet" and then attaching the one fan to the top panel with the 4 plastic fan screws. The material between connection points is plastic frame of the fan.

Example 2: The 4 long metal screws bolted through the top panel straight to the metal radiator (fan as a thick passive washer in between). Metal to metal has more tension strength, than the plastic.

End result: Not that the tension strength of the fan plastic frame wouldn't handle the weight of the liquid full copper brass radiator/pump/fans, but the metal screws are better suited for that. Wecells would choice them, but of course youcells can do whatever you prefer.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> It's not the screw length per se, but the material between the connection points.
> 
> Example 1: Fan bolted to the radiator as it is "out of the packet" and then attaching the one fan to the top panel with the 4 plastic fan screws. The material between connection points is plastic frame of the fan.
> 
> Example 2: The 4 long metal screws bolted through the top panel straight to the metal radiator (fan as a thick passive washer in between). Metal to metal has more tension strength, than the plastic.
> 
> End result: Not that the tension strength of the fan plastic frame wouldn't handle the weight of the liquid full copper brass radiator/pump/fans, but the metal screws are better suited for that. Wecells would choice them, but of course youcells can do whatever you prefer.


Thanks for clarifying that and it definitely makes sense. Would it be better to use example 1 and also use zip ties for the other 4 mounting holes though? Thereby distributing the load evenly just like it is designed.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Just ordered a 240x for my 4790K in my 540; looking forward to trying this fella out.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I am hoping that I get 65°C or less when using the H240X on my 4770K at 4.4G. I get about that with my H80i but it screams like a banshee.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I am hoping that I get 65°C or less when using the H240X on my 4770K at 4.4G. I get about that with my H80i but it screams like a banshee.


You should expect to see similar results from the H240-X at minimal fan speed as what you get from the H80i at full tilt. When I did the comparison tests, the 240-X at 800 rpm performed almost identically to an H100i at max fan speeds. Needless to say, the noise level difference is drastic.


----------



## Zillerella

Got the H220x. I saw you speak about the glossy tubing. How can I know if mine got that?
I also find the fans pretty loud. I am using the swiftech pwm splitter. Is there a way to control them? My bios setting is set to max speed on the cpu header, so the pump runs 100% all the time. Is that needed?


----------



## starrbuck

The H240-X is in stock at several vendors. I'm in for one. Anybody want my brand new H110 cheap?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Got the H220x. I saw you speak about the glossy tubing. How can I know if mine got that?
> I also find the fans pretty loud. I am using the swiftech pwm splitter. Is there a way to control them? My bios setting is set to max speed on the cpu header, so the pump runs 100% all the time. Is that needed?


yours has it I can see the reflection from the lights the updated tubing is matte black looking


----------



## Zillerella

So that is not good? :/


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Got the H220x. I saw you speak about the glossy tubing. How can I know if mine got that?
> I also find the fans pretty loud. I am using the swiftech pwm splitter. Is there a way to control them? My bios setting is set to max speed on the cpu header, so the pump runs 100% all the time. Is that needed?


First make sure your connected to a pwm header usually cpu fan or cpu opt. Than go to bios go to monitor at the bottom in most cases it will show cpu and you want to put it to manual it will show different temps set it per your system. For example. I set my fans to go up to 80 percent at 70 degrees and down to 20 percent at 25 degrees. This it will change the speeds at what temp your at or load. For instance bf4 sits around 45-50 so my fans are usually running at 50 percent range which is 1000-1200rpms


----------



## Swuell

Hi guys, I was interested in getting the H140x but haven't seen any reviews. Does anybody have any experience with it and does anybody know if it's possible to fit it to the back of a phantom 410 case? I know the radiator support for the back exhaust on the 410 is 120mm but I was wondering if there's a way around this or if anybody knows if removing the bottom hdd cage--which suppposedly allows a 240mm radiator in it--means it would also allow a 140mmm raditor? And why are there no reviews for the H140X?? :/


----------



## VSG

This is the only one I found:


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is the only one I found:


Thank you! Do you think this would fit fine in a phantom 410?


----------



## VSG

I have no idea, you might want to ask in the NZXT cases section in the computer cases subforum.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have no idea, you might want to ask in the NZXT cases section in the computer cases subforum.


I have waiting on a response haha


----------



## VSG

Well if that cases can house a single 140mm fan at the top or front and has a little bit of space around, it should be ok.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well if that cases can house a single 140mm fan at the top or front and has a little bit of space around, it should be ok.


It can but my top is full with an radiator--H100 for my cpu--already so I only have my back, front and side avaliable. Originally I thought if the removal of the hdd bay keant I coupd just place the radiator in it would work but apparently that doesn't--not sure why--so it seems you'd have to mod the hdd removable tray. But I thought if there's an 140mm fan in the front than couldn't you attach the radiator to that? :/ And also wasn't sure if it's possible but is it possible to attach the radiator to the side of the case? The side of the case accepts a 140mm fan.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> It can but my top is full with an radiator--H100 for my cpu--already so I only have my back, front and side avaliable. Originally I thought if the removal of the hdd bay keant I coupd just place the radiator in it would work but apparently that doesn't--not sure why--so it seems you'd have to mod the hdd removable tray. But I thought if there's an 140mm fan in the front than couldn't you attach the radiator to that? :/ And also wasn't sure if it's possible but is it possible to attach the radiator to the side of the case? The side of the case accepts a 140mm fan.


if the side of the case allows one,its technically possible assuming that neither the PSU or gpu is blocking the reservoir extension. side of case mounting would just follow the rules of front of case mounting, except be a slight nuisance every time you open up the side panel.as thje sidepanel is now attached to your components


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if the side of the case allows one,its technically possible assuming that neither the PSU or gpu is blocking the reservoir extension. side of case mounting would just follow the rules of front of case mounting, except be a slight nuisance every time you open up the side panel.as thje sidepanel is now attached to your components


Ah ok that makes sense thanks! So than can if I do front mounting can I attach the 140mm radiator to the front fans or do I really have to mod the removable hdd bay?


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> First make sure your connected to a pwm header usually cpu fan or cpu opt. Than go to bios go to monitor at the bottom in most cases it will show cpu and you want to put it to manual it will show different temps set it per your system. For example. I set my fans to go up to 80 percent at 70 degrees and down to 20 percent at 25 degrees. This it will change the speeds at what temp your at or load. For instance bf4 sits around 45-50 so my fans are usually running at 50 percent range which is 1000-1200rpms


Yea, I can set manual temps on my asus motherbord in the bios.
But how I know that the pump is running 100% then? Is it always running on max?


----------



## fuloran1

Man, so happy I found this thread! I just ordered the 240-x due to the info found here. Almost got stuck with an h100-i! I was going to but it and add $50 in fans to make it quiet, which actually would have cost the same as what I paid for the 240-x!


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I keep hitting the refresh on my email awaiting the shipping info from Swiftech. If it gets mailed today I will get it before Christmas, but if it is mailed tomorrow it may or may not arrive on time. If it is shipped Saturday or later then I will have to spend time with my family!


----------



## ban25

Hi guys, I just installed my new H240-X (and it looks great!), but there's a problem...my CPU temperature is now massively higher than before, even at stock speeds. I've gone from 50C Package Temp under load to 82C Package Temp under load!




I have the H240-X mounted in the top of my H440, with the fans set to exhaust. I also have two 140mm intake fans in the front of the case. These four are plugged into the swiftech PWM splitter, with the pump in channel 1 (red). The splitter itself is plugged into my CPU_FAN header.

The pump *appears* to be running (it's vibrating at least), but the radiator is not hot to the touch. I have all the panels off to insure there's no airflow restriction and I am getting good airflow through the radiator and out the case, particularly under load when the fans are running at full speed.

I'm going to try re-seating the waterblock on the CPU to ensure there's good contact there. Is there anything else I should try?

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I keep hitting the refresh on my email awaiting the shipping info from Swiftech. If it gets mailed today I will get it before Christmas, but if it is mailed tomorrow it may or may not arrive on time. If it is shipped Saturday or later then I will have to spend time with my family!


Oh no! That's terrible!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Hi guys, I just installed my new H240-X (and it looks great!), but there's a problem...my CPU temperature is now massively higher than before, even at stock speeds. I've gone from 50C Package Temp under load to 82C Package Temp under load!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the H240-X mounted in the top of my H440, with the fans set to exhaust. I also have two 140mm intake fans in the front of the case. These four are plugged into the swiftech PWM splitter, with the pump in channel 1 (red). The splitter itself is plugged into my CPU_FAN header.
> 
> The pump *appears* to be running (it's vibrating at least), but the radiator is not hot to the touch. I have all the panels off to insure there's no airflow restriction and I am getting good airflow through the radiator and out the case, particularly under load when the fans are running at full speed.
> 
> I'm going to try re-seating the waterblock on the CPU to ensure there's good contact there. Is there anything else I should try?
> 
> Thanks!


Are you sure that you removed the plastic from the copper base plate and that you fully tightened all four of the mounting screws? If the radiator isn't getting warm that usually indicates that you didn't mount the block properly or that your pump isn't running. Does the water block feel warm?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Man, so happy I found this thread! I just ordered the 240-x due to the info found here. Almost got stuck with an h100-i! I was going to but it and add $50 in fans to make it quiet, which actually would have cost the same as what I paid for the 240-x!


I was going to point you over here, but you beat me to it.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Oh no! That's terrible!


Yeah I know right! By the way, you guys must be ridiculously busy! Getting your shipment in just 13 days before Christmas, selling out, also FrozenCPU had some stuff in stock for about 5 hours before they sold out as well. The snow probably doesn't help either.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Yeah I know right! By the way, you guys must be ridiculously busy! Getting your shipment in just 13 days before Christmas, selling out, also FrozenCPU had some stuff in stock for about 5 hours before they sold out as well. The snow probably doesn't help either.


Your order should go out today though.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you sure that you removed the plastic from the copper base plate and that you fully tightened all four of the mounting screws? If the radiator isn't getting warm that usually indicates that you didn't mount the block properly or that your pump isn't running. Does the water block feel warm?


I did remove the plastic and at least I thought I fully tightened all the screws, but the water block doesn't feel particularly warm. I also notice that the waterblock is mounted upside down (the Swiftech logo is upside down, anyway), not sure if that makes a difference...

Let me try remounting it and I'll report back.


----------



## Zillerella

@BramSLI1 how do I make sure that the pump is running 100% all the time? Or is it no problem that the pump is auto contolled?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> @BramSLI1 how do I make sure that the pump is running 100% all the time? Or is it no problem that the pump is auto contolled?


The pump is PWM and the pump and fans were designed to work together on the same PWM curve.


----------



## delpy8

Hi Guys,

Can anyone confirm if the H320 will fit in the front of the corsair carbide 540


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump is PWM and the pump and fans were designed to work together on the same PWM curve.


Maybe that is it, he doesn't have the PWMs or pump plugged in properly.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> I did remove the plastic and at least I thought I fully tightened all the screws, but the water block doesn't feel particularly warm. I also notice that the waterblock is mounted upside down (the Swiftech logo is upside down, anyway), not sure if that makes a difference...
> 
> Let me try remounting it and I'll report back.


Ok, when I checked the CPU backplate, it was obvious that the bottom two screws were not fully tightened. I've now tightened all of them and I'm down to 60C (65C with all panels on)! I think I may be able to get some further improvement by pulling the block off and carefully checking the TIM on the CPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the H320 will fit in the front of the corsair carbide 540


We have one of those cases here and were able to confirm that the H320 won't fit in the front of that case due to the fittings and the added reservoir. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Ok, when I checked the CPU backplate, it was obvious that the bottom two screws were not fully tightened. I've now tightened all of them and I'm down to 60C (65C with all panels on)! I think I may be able to get some further improvement by pulling the block off and carefully checking the TIM on the CPU.


That sounds about right for that processor. I think you solved your issue.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump is PWM and the pump and fans were designed to work together on the same PWM curve.


Not really, the response on the pump and fans is different. But you do what you can!


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That sounds about right for that processor. I think you solved your issue.


Thanks!


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Yeah I know right! By the way, you guys must be ridiculously busy! Getting your shipment in just 13 days before Christmas, selling out, also FrozenCPU had some stuff in stock for about 5 hours before they sold out as well. The snow probably doesn't help either.


FrozenCPU shipped out my H240-X within a couple of hours of me ordering it yesterday afternoon.. Should arrive down here in Texas on Tuesday!


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, the response on the pump and fans is different. But you do what you can!


Is it ok to run the pump at a constant 100% and the fans off of other motherboard headers based on other system temperatures or factors?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, the response on the pump and fans is different. But you do what you can!


I did not say that the response was the same. I said that the response of each was designed to work with the response of the other.....which they are.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> Is it ok to run the pump at a constant 100% and the fans off of other motherboard headers based on other system temperatures or factors?


Yeah, of course. Just make sure they are PWM headers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I did not say that the response was the same. I said that the response of each was designed to work with the response of the other.....which they are.


Mind explaining that?


----------



## fuloran1

Can someone answer a total noob question? I would like to add my gtx 770 to the loop of my 240-x when it comes in, how do I do that? What would I need?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Can someone answer a total noob question? I would like to add my gtx 770 to the loop of my 240-x when it comes in, how do I do that? What would I need?


At a minimum you'll need a water block for your GPU, extra 3/8 by 5/8 tubing, two 3/8 barb fittings for the GPU water block, and some extra coolant. To increase your cooling capacity you might also want to add another radiator.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> At a minimum you'll need a water block for your GPU, extra 3/8 by 5/8 tubing, two 3/8 barb fittings for the GPU water block, and some extra coolant. To increase your cooling capacity you might also want to add another radiator.


Thank you! I guess what I am asking is what specifically, what specific block for my gpu?Is it just distilled water or water/glycol?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Thank you! I guess what I am asking is what specifically, what specific block for my gpu?Is it just distilled water or water/glycol?


You'll have to do your research to find the block that fits your particular card. If it's a non-reference based card then there may not be a full-cover block that's compatible with it at all. Also, you'll always want to use distilled water with some type of biocide and anti-corrosive agent.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll have to do your research to find the block that fits your particular card. If it's a non-reference based card then there may not be a full-cover block that's compatible with it at all. Also, you'll always want to use distilled water with some type of biocide and anti-corrosive agent.


Thank you, I'm a total noob when it comes to water cooling, but man, I can't tell you how excited I am to get the 240-x. Every single review and article says it's in a class by itself!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Thank you, I'm a total noob when it comes to water cooling, but man, I can't tell you how excited I am to get the 240-x. Every single review and article says it's in a class by itself!


We all had to start somewhere. My first kit was the original Compact Dive and 120mm radiator/reservoir unit from Swiftech. I wouldn't have guessed then that several years later I'd be working for the company.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Okay so while waiting on the replacement o ring which Bryan was great on by the way I got impatient with shipping which can be ridiculous this time of year and purchased a huge assortment of o rings for like 7 bucks anyhow the one that fits the internal diameter is just barely shy of fitting perfectly on the outer diameter but it does protrude enough to make contact with the copper block portion...do you guys think this will work until my replacement arrives?


----------



## ban25

I have to say, I'm quite happy with the way the H-240X has been working out in my build -- I was able to remove 5 fans from the case and install all the panels and temps are under-control! And it looks great too, here are some pics:


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was going to point you over here, but you beat me to it.


Ha, didn't realize that was you! Great reviews on your channel man, you saved me from wasting my money on crap!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Ha, didn't realize that was you! Great reviews on your channel man, you saved me from wasting my money on crap!


Thanks! We do try, and I am glad the info helped you out.


----------



## Zillerella

I wrote with the Swiftech support about the plasticize problem and here is the respons:
Maybe someone find it usefull







Btw really awesome respons time!
Quote:


> To reduce the possibility of plasticizer we recommend not sitting your case in a place where it can get direct sunlight and to also keep an eye on your coolant through the reservoir. If you start to see particles floating in the coolant then this would indicate that plasticizer is starting to set in and that you should change your coolant and tubing at that point.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You'll have to do your research to find the block that fits your particular card. If it's a non-reference based card then there may not be a full-cover block that's compatible with it at all. Also, you'll always want to use distilled water with some type of biocide and anti-corrosive agent.


Looks like he has an EVGA GTX 770 SC.....as I recall, only one company made a block for that card.....who was it again? Bryan, do you recall?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks like he has an EVGA GTX 770 SC.....as I recall, only one company made a block for that card.....who was it again? Bryan, do you recall?


thanks man, I also assume I can get coolant from Swiftech thats pre-mixed right?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks like he has an EVGA GTX 770 SC.....as I recall, only one company made a block for that card.....who was it again? Bryan, do you recall?


No, I don't recall.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> thanks man, I also assume I can get coolant from Swiftech thats pre-mixed right?


Yes, we have pre-mixed coolant.


----------



## fuloran1

The 240-X is back in stock on swiftech.com, get it while it's hot!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ok so I went ahead with the install of the block with that o ring and so far after 2 hour test no leaks and no adverse effects I will still swap it out with the replacement when it comes but now it's working until then...and install of heat plate went on a daresay more evenly than I remember with original o ring...Now to test my new 8320E and see how much better it is


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Ok so I went ahead with the install of the block with that o ring and so far after 2 hour test no leaks and no adverse effects I will still swap it out with the replacement when it comes but now it's working until then...and install of heat plate went on a daresay more evenly than I remember with original o ring...Now to test my new 8320E and see how much better it is


I think the bow is needed more with Intel chips than with AMD chips. I'll have to confirm that on Monday, but I do believe that's what I remember being told.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think the bow is needed more with Intel chips than with AMD chips. I'll have to confirm that on Monday, but I do believe that's what I remember being told.


well I do know that the modules for the 83xx series are on the outside corners so maybe that's why....it interior diameter was metric size or at least the metric one fit without force...


----------



## lamia2super

can someone fill me in on what size tubing and fittings i would need to expand the loop of my CM glacer 240L. I wanted to add my GPU, reservoir, and maybe another rad to the loop


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Would it be better to use example 1 and also use zip ties for the other 4 mounting holes though? Thereby distributing the load evenly just like it is designed.


Wecells don't think that the evenly distributed weight mounting needs all 4 ties, but only 2 if at all, as the balance point of the radiator kit must be somewhere on top of the pump (can't test right now).

Radiator mounting method should be then... 2 ties - 0 ties for the first fan... 2 long screws - 2 long screws to the second fan at radiator reservoir/pump end.

These 2 ties should also prevent the possible fan resonating against top panel noise.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamia2super*
> 
> can someone fill me in on what size tubing and fittings i would need to expand the loop of my CM glacer 240L. I wanted to add my GPU, reservoir, and maybe another rad to the loop


Original tubes on 240L are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD.

Fittings for those tube measures are needed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Original tubes on 240L are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD.
> 
> Fittings for those measures are needed.


also would need to know case and locations of rads to answer properly as that matters quite a bit and can change the answer drastically.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Wecells don't think that the evenly distributed weight mounting needs all 4 ties, but only 2 if at all, as the balance point of the radiator kit must be somewhere on top of the pump (can't test right now).
> 
> Radiator mounting method should be then... 2 ties - 0 ties for the first fan... 2 long screws - 2 long screws to the second fan at radiator reservoir/pump end.
> 
> These 2 ties should also prevent the possible fan resonating against top panel noise.


When you say 2 ties - 0 ties for the first fan, where in the four corner would be those 2 ties?


----------



## Razzaa

Hi guys!! Just got my H240x today and i was curious about my temps. I am running my 4790K @ 4.7Ghz 1.32v. Using Intel XTU stress test im hovering in the 70s. Room temp is around 22c. Also, what do you guys recommend using to change and monitor fan and pump speeds? Love the look of it so far and want to put my G1 970 in the loop eventually. Thanks


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Considering the big overclock those temps seem good


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When you say 2 ties - 0 ties for the first fan, where in the four corner would be those 2 ties?


https://i2.wp.com/www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/swiftech_h220x-25-300x199.jpg

From left to right vertical pairs (pump is on the right side with reservoir): 2 ties - 0 ties - 2 screws - 2 screws.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> https://i2.wp.com/www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/swiftech_h220x-25-300x199.jpg
> 
> From left to right vertical pairs (pump is on the right side with reservoir): 2 ties - 0 ties - 2 screws - 2 screws.


Got it, that's what I actually did and it's pretty much working well. Thanks! Except for the little bend on the CPU power connector, of course.


----------



## benbenkr

Hey guys, just got my H240x. Was checking everything and noticed this -



Does that look like rust or something else?


----------



## BramSLI1

Can't tell from the picture, but it could be some left over thread sealer that they use at the factory. Do you see any signs of leaking?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So I was thinking today on going ahead and ordering the stuff to do fillport and drain port and was wondering if a bulkhead fitting would work better to screw a compression fitting onto the H220-X fillport or would just the compression fitting with the fitting and stop plug in the top work just as well..I was wondering because it seems a compression fitting alone would obstruct the water flow on the return to the res possibly..The xspc fittings I bought back when are low profile so they don't have deep threads but just wondering what would be the best way


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can't tell from the picture, but it could be some left over thread sealer that they use at the factory. Do you see any signs of leaking?


Thread sealers don't look like that color, right? Have not set my system up yet so I cannot check for leaks right now. Reason is because I bought this from PerformancePCs and they forgot to include my G1/4 replacement port fitting. So gotta wait for that and finish the build later.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Thread sealers don't look like that color, right? Have not set my system up yet so I cannot check for leaks right now. Reason is because I bought this from PerformancePCs and they forgot to include my G1/4 replacement port fitting. So gotta wait for that and finish the build later.


Actually, I don't think any thread sealer is used on those screws at all, so I'm not sure what that is. I doubt it would be rust though because these screws are stainless steel. Send me an email though with pictures so that I can look into it for you tomorrow when I get into work. Just send the email to [email protected]


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually, I don't think any thread sealer is used on those screws at all, so I'm not sure what that is. I doubt it would be rust though because these screws are stainless steel. Send me an email though with pictures so that I can look into it for you tomorrow when I get into work. Just send the email to [email protected]


Sent you an email with a couple of pics attached. Will be waiting for your response, thanks.


----------



## kevindd992002

I just installed the H220-X on my i7 2600K CPU and these are the max temps I'm getting at around 1.24V:

Core1=69C
Core2=72C
Core3=72C
Core4=71C

My ambient temp is around 30C (I know it's high). Are these pretty much good temps? And can you consider it a good waterblock seat?

Don't mind the frequency set for the CPU yet because these are just default BIOS settings and I'm just doing a preliminary test before I redo my overclocking. What's important is the vCore because that's what indicate the expected temps, right?


----------



## Dudewitbow

should also state PWM% levels and if its being set to push or pull in your case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> should also state PWM% levels and if its being set to push or pull in your case.


How will I check at which PWM level is the AIO running at? That's easy with my video cards but am not sure how to measure it for CPU's. I remember AI Suite II has a monitoring for PWM but I wouldn't want to install that piece of crap software. The rad is set to its default setup (push cold air from the outside to the inside of the case).


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamia2super*
> 
> can someone fill me in on what size tubing and fittings i would need to expand the loop of my CM glacer 240L. I wanted to add my GPU, reservoir, and maybe another rad to the loop


 just alittle idea of what the 240l expanded looks like seeing you don't see many people with the 240l on here. I've since moved to custom wc and will be once again redoing the loop to go to petg tubing. Note the difference between this setup and my custom water loop is very close in temps. I just had the itch and wanted alittle cleaner of a look and cylinder res.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How will I check at which PWM level is the AIO running at?


http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php

^ Speedfan


----------



## Zer0CoolX

is NCIXUS a reputable place to get one of these (not really asking about a model, just if they are reputable and i guess authorized to carry swiftech stuff)? Thanks


----------



## lamia2super

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> just alittle idea of what the 240l expanded looks like seeing you don't see many people with the 240l on here. I've since moved to custom wc and will be once again redoing the loop to go to petg tubing. Note the difference between this setup and my custom water loop is very close in temps. I just had the itch and wanted alittle cleaner of a look and cylinder res.


very nice ! I've been searching around to see whats the best way to do it and what kind of look i want. I've been think about going with a photon 170 tube, small 120mm rad for the bottom, and picking up a poseidon 980. for tubes i was thinking clear or maybe UV clear blue with either a red or blue coolant


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> is NCIXUS a reputable place to get one of these (not really asking about a model, just if they are reputable and i guess authorized to carry swiftech stuff)? Thanks


Yeah, it's a reputable place.


----------



## emsj86

If you could I go another. 240 rather than just a 120 if you have room the price is fairly the same. A 240 swiftech you could scoop up for 40-50


----------



## benbenkr

Thanks to Bram for solving out my problems. The pic that I showed earlier, it was indeed rust but I've tested the unit and fortunately there is no leakage. Will be awaiting a replacement screw for it as soon as Bram sends it out.


----------



## lamia2super

alright that can work just have to move some stuff around.are Primoflex Nylon Reusable Hose Clamp any good ? was planning on use those with barbs


----------



## spacetoast31

anyone cooling sli and an overclocked CPU with the h220x?
and i of course mean with some additional radiator/s.. lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
> 
> ^ Speedfan


I have speedfan but where specifically in that program? I'm tinkering with it now and I can adjust fan speed using the PWM control but if I choose automatic fan control, where do I monitor the PWM?


----------



## Dudewitbow

you dont have to monitor pwm directly, stating what the RPM is like on HWMonitor should be enough information.


----------



## msgclb

As I was about to purchase a H220-X I have a question about the pump.

Since the MCP30 pump is not available on the Swiftech website if it fails after the warranty what are the options to replace it or will another version work.


----------



## VSG

The bigger brother version (MCP50X) will work.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Didn't swiftech used to have a mcp30 pump? I was considering a second pump to couple to my res for flow and redundancy purposes but not sure I can swing for the mcp50 quite yet...wanting to support swiftech though so might just have to save my pennies up


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> Since the MCP30 pump is not available on the Swiftech website if it fails after the warranty what are the options to replace it or will another version work.


Because they don't sell the MCP30 separately does not mean they won't replace yours with another one if it goes bad.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> Because they don't sell the MCP30 separately does not mean they won't replace yours with another one if it goes bad.


probably the 35x which is quite a but better


----------



## VSG

Not necessarily, and still incompatible with the H220-X.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> As I was about to purchase a H220-X I have a question about the pump.
> 
> Since the MCP30 pump is not available on the Swiftech website if it fails after the warranty what are the options to replace it or will another version work.


This is a great question. I would like to know myself.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not necessarily, and still incompatible with the H220-X.


I thought I remembered Bram saying 35x and 50 were installable in the H220-X. ..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I thought I remembered Bram saying 35x and 50 were installable in the H220-X. ..


No, the MCP35X is a Laing based pump. Our MCP50X is our own proprietary pump and it is compatible with these new kits. We don't manufacture the MCP30 separately for sale, but we do carry spare pumps for replacements.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, the MCP35X is a Laing based pump. Our MCP50X is our own proprietary pump and it is compatible with these new kits. We don't manufacture the MCP30 separately for sale, but we do carry spare pumps for replacements.


ah ok...so if I bought the mcp50 would it be more beneficial to have it running through the second res or swap the two and have the 50 pushing through the H220-X? Or would it not make much of a difference?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> ah ok...so if I bought the mcp50 would it be more beneficial to have it running through the second res or swap the two and have the 50 pushing through the H220-X? Or would it not make much of a difference?


It wouldn't really make much of a difference where you placed the second pump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It wouldn't really make much of a difference where you placed the second pump.


I didn't think it would but thought I'd ask that will likely be the next thing I purchase...Then come tax time it will be gpu upgrade time


----------



## GTone

I'm in. Well, at least I bought my first water cooling system(220-x) today.









I have no idea how fast the store is, so now the wait.


----------



## mistax

So i've been lurking around this forums for the past few week to get an idea of what i should pick up for my 4790k setup, and if i'm correct the swiftech h220-320 series are the best AIO option available right? If so how are the fans that come with them? I have some gentle typhoon2150 from the group we had on here a long time ago.


----------



## VSG

I'd probably use the GTs myself, and check out the H220-X too. If it absolutely must be a 240 or 360mm rad then the H320 may yet be the better performer but they do have a 280mm offering of the newer series as well (H240-X).


----------



## FastEddieNYC

The Swiftech products are all high quality and better than the Aio's every Tom, Dick and Harry is selling.. The GT's are great fans. The Swiftech Helix fans are pretty quiet and move a decent amount of air but I would use the Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## benbenkr

I wonder, if I were to use a killcoil instead of Pt Nuke after refilling the H220/240x, where would I put the kill coil? I know tube is one place, but can the kill coil actually be crammed into the reservoir?


----------



## msgclb

Monday I first set my eyes on a H140-X Drive but soon came to the realization that I didn't have any 140mm case exhaust fans so I moved on to the H220-X.

While waiting for my check to clear I found an image with the H240-X installed in a C70.

Now that looks like what I really want but it's all sold out. I guess I can wait some more.

When geggeg says the MCP50X will work I can say he has proof!









While waiting I did a search for info on the outlet port fitting and I first found a VSG review on EVGA.

The avatar was a dead giveaway that I would find the same *H220-X review* here on OCN.

So geggeg did you get that H220-X put back together with no spare parts?

Outstanding review.


----------



## VSG

Thanks! I am still contemplating expanding it and watercooling the HTPC GPU as well or just going with a CPU cooler except with quick disconnects. But it's very easy to put back together- probably just need a fresh batch of coolant since that was kept outside for a few days during the review


----------



## emsj86

So I was playing some games on Christmas and than my pc starts smoking. Here is what I found swiftech mcp50x Pump wires our burnt. How do I go about the warrenty return ?


----------



## Swuell

Just a quick question do you guys know if it's possible to connect a y fan splitter cable to the H100 fan cable--that connects to the mobo--so that I can connect to both to the mobo and to my fan controller, would that work?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I was playing some games on Christmas and than my pc starts smoking. Here is what I found swiftech mcp50x Pump wires our burnt. How do I go about the warrenty return ?


That sucks man, PM Bryan and see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Just a quick question do you guys know if it's possible to connect a y fan splitter cable to the H100 fan cable--that connects to the mobo--so that I can connect to both to the mobo and to my fan controller, would that work?


Going by your post in the Corsair Hydro thread I guess this wasn't meant to be posted here? Either way, no.


----------



## emsj86

I was wondering if anyone has been through this if by any chance swiftech would refund me so I can just run and grab a switch each mcp35x (all they have) at microcenter. I'm off until Monday and need to get work done using my pc. Yeh it sucks somewhat relieved bc I thought I sprung a leak and my mobo or gpu fried. It's better it's a 70 dollar pp and not something worse.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has been through this if by any chance swiftech would refund me so I can just run and grab a switch each mcp35x (all they have) at microcenter. I'm off until Monday and need to get work done using my pc. Yeh it sucks somewhat relieved bc I thought I sprung a leak and my mobo or gpu fried. It's better it's a 70 dollar pp and not something worse.


wut


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has been through this if by any chance swiftech would refund me so I can just run and grab a switch each mcp35x (all they have) at microcenter. I'm off until Monday and need to get work done using my pc. Yeh it sucks somewhat relieved bc I thought I sprung a leak and my mobo or gpu fried. It's better it's a 70 dollar pp and not something worse.


MCP35X won't fit the H220-X, so save your money. Unless of course that's not part of the H220-X and just used as a regular pump, in which case you can of course use any pump.


----------



## emsj86

Kinda out of ace posting on this thread but I did bc bram is seen on here the most. But the mcp50x I have is on a custom loop so getting a mcp35xx or any pump would work. Sorry for the miss understanding.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry the egg nogg is flowing today lol


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Where the heck can I geta h220x in the UK, and why are they so damnably rare?


----------



## starrbuck

H240-X in a C70


----------



## Gavush

Yep. Fits nicely! I've one myself. Super pleased with it.


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> H240-X in a C70


And that's not the one I saw unless he replaced the PSU and GPUs!

Thanks.

And now I realize it was the @Gavush C70!

Thanks again!


----------



## big_aug

So I just put together my new rig today. It's a 5930k build using an H240-X. I'm just testing it and everything before doing any OCing. Idle temps are about 20-25c. I'm running Prime95 right now, and my cores range from 50-59c. Does this seem right for a stock 5930k? Only one of my cores goes above 55c. The others are 50-54c. My ambient temp is probably relatively low as we don't run the heat much.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> H240-X in a C70


Nice! Would it be better to have the waterblock installed in the orientation that you did or switch it 180 degrees clockwise (in the orientation that is displayed in most advertisings)? Or does it even matter?


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I just finished my build! My tubing sucks but I think I will still post pictures. I have a H240X and a MCR140X in the same loop for redundancy and because I have 2 additional radiators.


----------



## big_aug

I'm also not getting any RPM readings for my pump. I'm using the 8 way switch that was included with my h240x. I've got all my case fans along with the pump hooked up to it (pump in the one spot) and it's connected to my CPU Fan header. Any suggestions?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> I'm also not getting any RPM readings for my pump. I'm using the 8 way switch that was included with my h240x. I've got all my case fans along with the pump hooked up to it (pump in the one spot) and it's connected to my CPU Fan header. Any suggestions?


Is the pump connected to the header where there was originally a red/orange cap on it?


----------



## big_aug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the pump connected to the header where there was originally a red/orange cap on it?


Yea. I'm getting an RPM reading in my BIOS, but no utility will report anything. I've tried Speedfan, HWMonitor, etc to try and see speeds while in Windows, but nothing displays.

On another subject, Corsair AF120s running at full speed sound like a jet engine lol. I put three of them in the front of my Carbide Air 540 and it's pretty loud.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> Yea. I'm getting an RPM reading in my BIOS, but no utility will report anything. I've tried Speedfan, HWMonitor, etc to try and see speeds while in Windows, but nothing displays.
> 
> On another subject, Corsair AF120s running at full speed sound like a jet engine lol. I put three of them in the front of my Carbide Air 540 and it's pretty loud.


What MB?


----------



## Blackout2388

Hello everyone! Just got the H240-X for Christmas andso far so good. My question is this: I plan on expanding the loop to my GPU (Asus ROG Poseidon GTX 780). The liquid used is safe for the plate in the GPU? I've heard of corrosion happening but I'm not sure if it applied here. I'll need more tubing. Looking at Swiftech's site, it says 5/8" x 3/8". I guess I buy the same size, huh? And lastly, do I have to bleed the entire system to expand the loop? How would I go about it without damaging parts? Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## mistax

was wondering is there a big performance difference between the 220x and the 240x? Seems like the 240x is out of stock everywhere =( and i would like to build my system by next week


----------



## kevindd992002

Some of the fins of my radiator also have rust on their insides. I just noticed when I was using a flashlight to illuminate parts of my PC and accidentally saw the rust. This is a brand new unit that has been running for just a week now.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nice! Would it be better to have the waterblock installed in the orientation that you did or switch it 180 degrees clockwise (in the orientation that is displayed in most advertisings)? Or does it even matter?


AFAIK, this is right-side-up as the Swiftech logo faces up as it should be. It shouldn't matter, tho, if you want to put it in upside down.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Yep. Fits nicely! I've one myself. Super pleased with it.


Yes, thanks. I only lost the use of one 5-1/4" slot so I was pretty happy. I had the secondary SSD up there so I was a little upset I had to reinstall it and put the lower cage back in. I previously had the cages completely out which gave me better airflow input in the bottom front.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Some of the fins of my radiator also have rust on their insides. I just noticed when I was using a flashlight to illuminate parts of my PC and accidentally saw the rust. This is a brand new unit that has been running for just a week now.


That isn't rust, the fins are made of copper (therefore it's not possible for it to rust) What you're seeing is the exposed copper that the painting process didn't get to. This is done on purpose.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> That isn't rust, the fins are made of copper (therefore it's not possible for it to rust) What you're seeing is the exposed copper that the painting process didn't get to. This is done on purpose.


improves dissipation of heat as paint acts as an insulator







copper can tarnish but won't rust


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> Yes, thanks. I only lost the use of one 5-1/4" slot so I was pretty happy. I had the secondary SSD up there so I was a little upset I had to reinstall it and put the lower cage back in. I previously had the cages completely out which gave me better airflow input in the bottom front.


You could stick that SSD nearly anywhere, in the back behind the motherboard tray or stack it with another HDD. A month or two ago someone posted a drive bay bracket that held one HDD and two SSD - I think it was by Silverstone?


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> You could stick that SSD nearly anywhere, in the back behind the motherboard tray or stack it with another HDD. A month or two ago someone posted a drive bay bracket that held one HDD and two SSD - I think it was by Silverstone?


I'm aware of that but I prefer to have it mounted securely, not hanging by wires or held in place by velcro and adhesive. The bracket also won't work for me as I have the available two 5-1/4" slots taken up with other devices.



Here are a couple of ideas to improve one's setup:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VP83BU
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJYJQ0


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Here she is guys. I got everything all smashed in there and working for the most part


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> I'm aware of that but I prefer to have it mounted securely, not hanging by wires or held in place by velcro and adhesive. The bracket also won't work for me as I have the available two 5-1/4" slots taken up with other devices.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of ideas to improve one's setup:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VP83BU
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJYJQ0


Phanteks sells a ssd bracket it works with no mods for there case. But since you have a different case all you would need to do is put two screws anywhere on your pc and it will slid right on. Or connect the back side of the bracket with wire ties. It will secure it very well.


----------



## big_aug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What MB?


Gigabyte x99 G1 Gaming


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Here she is guys. I got everything all smashed in there and working for the most part


now that's some swiftech love right there







...I bet that was fun to bleed.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> Gigabyte x99 G1 Gaming


Have you tried using Easy Tune?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Here she is guys. I got everything all smashed in there and working for the most part


Very nice! I like it. What temperatures are you getting at idle and full load?


----------



## big_aug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tried using Easy Tune?


I'll try it as soon as I get home. Thanks


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> now that's some swiftech love right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I bet that was fun to bleed.....


I am very impressed with the Swiftech stuff. There are a few little things that I could nitpick but all in all I am pleased. Also all the radiators from were clean. No flux or other crud when I went to wash them out.

No this was not fun to bleed. Between the general problems with bleeding that some people have had with the H240X/H220X units, also having the little MCR140X in the same loop, and lastly my very poor choice in routing the tubing and placement of things. Bleeding this system was nails on a chalkboard and a feat of strength. I was juggling the system in circles to get all the air out. Yet I suppose I should have tried to utilize the bleed screw on the front of the H240X but I do not know how that is supposed to work I guess...


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Very nice! I like it. What temperatures are you getting at idle and full load?


Before I reveal my results, I have to say that 140mm fans are amazing. I know I do have 10x Swiftech Helix 140mm PWM fans but this system runs super quiet. All the fans sit at low rpms. The loudest thing in this computer are the 2 water pumps.

CPU temps I am so/so happy with. First off I have an I7-4770K that is an okay overclocker. I cannot seem to get anything stable beyond 4.4G regardless of what I try. So at 4.4 with my previous H80i with aftermarket fans running essentially full tilt my temps were between 65-70°C in game and it was way loud. With this setup I am now getting between 62-67°C. SO between a 3 to 5° drop. But it is way quieter.

Now lets talk GPUs. I have SLI GTX Titans running the modded Skyn3t BIOS so it is 1006 base clock and boost is disabled. Without further overclocking I played DA:I for 3 hours and my temps never broke 40°C. To put that in perspective, Before I had to run the Titan fan at 85% and I was reaching 80°C and they do not like that temperature. Having the fan speed any higher than 85% did not drop the temps and also with the stock bios you are not supposed to be able to set the fan more than 85%.

It is so entirely weird to be playing and have almost no noise coming from the case and seeing the temps in the 30s!

I will do a gaming marathon of at least 5 hours to see if anything changes and update by Monday probably


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> I wonder, if I were to use a killcoil instead of Pt Nuke after refilling the H220/240x, where would I put the kill coil? I know in the tube after the outlet is one place, but can the kill coil actually be crammed into the reservoir?


^Anyone?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> ^Anyone?


I wouldn't cram a kill coil into the reservoir of this kit. I would put it in a length of tubing instead. There really isn't enough room under the fill-port cap to add a kill coil.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I wouldn't cram a kill coil into the reservoir of this kit. I would put it in a length of tubing instead. There really isn't enough room under the fill-port cap to add a kill coil.


Personally, I would simply go with a bottle of Hydrx PM 2 and make life simple.


----------



## mistax

Anyone have any idea on how to get the 240x in the us or are they sold out for the next few months? Wanted to build a system by next week and only saw the h220 in stock


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally, I would simply go with a bottle of Hydrx PM 2 and make life simple.


Our PM 2 coolant has been discontinued. We don't have the clearer coolant on sale separately yet, but once we do in the next few weeks, that would be the one to get.


----------



## Blackout2388

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Anyone have any idea on how to get the 240x in the us or are they sold out for the next few months? Wanted to build a system by next week and only saw the h220 in stock


I got mine about 3 weeks before Christmas from the Swiftech site. Keep checking and eventually it'll come back.


----------



## ssgtnubb

I got mine Wednesday of this week; I had ordered from Performance PCs on Monday.


----------



## mistax

Alrighty I'll hold out for the 240x then.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Alrighty I'll hold out for the 240x then.


NCIX Canada has them. Not sure if you can order from Vancouver. Shipping would probably make it not worth it.


----------



## big_aug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tried using Easy Tune?


Easy Tune doesn't appear to display any fan settings at all. The other utilities all say 0 RPM. Easy Tune doesn't list fans at all.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *big_aug*
> 
> Easy Tune doesn't appear to display any fan settings at all. The other utilities all say 0 RPM. Easy Tune doesn't list fans at all.


Easy Tune is one of the most useless motherboard utilities ever made. Try using SpeedFan instead.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Easy Tune is one of the most useless motherboard utilities ever made. Try using SpeedFan instead.


x2. Speedfan is definitely the way to go. It is a pain to learn but is a very powerful tool when it comes to temperature control and monitoring. Google is your friend when it comes to setting up Speedfan.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Where the heck can I geta h220x in the UK, and why are they so damnably rare?


They are popular which is the reason why they stay sold out all the time


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Has anyone bought the Swiftech H140-X yet?


----------



## mistax

the hunt begins.


----------



## dansi

Hi all Swifty users,
Before i press to buy a H220X, wondering how one can use it with a RV02E case?

I am thinking of removing the 2 default helix fans and stacking them on the other side of the rad(besides the pump/res). And than using this taller height to leave it on the floor of the RV02E so that the pump/res orientation remains correct.

Would that work i need some users input as to, would the dual fans be tall enough to overcome the tall pump/res? Or even 3 fans stacking!

Something like this, i know is a pathetic solution, but i love the RV02E!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> AFAIK, this is right-side-up as the Swiftech logo faces up as it should be. It shouldn't matter, tho, if you want to put it in upside down.


Ok







Well, I guess it just depends on how the faceplate is oriented but based on the posters of the H220-X (see the one just before this post), the orientation in your system is the one being upside down. I'm just wondering which of the two orientations will put less stress or better looks on the tubings, not really a big deal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> That isn't rust, the fins are made of copper (therefore it's not possible for it to rust) What you're seeing is the exposed copper that the painting process didn't get to. This is done on purpose.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> improves dissipation of heat as paint acts as an insulator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> copper can tarnish but won't rust


Thanks for the clarification







I knew Swiftech wouldn't have QA issues like this one.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I wouldn't cram a kill coil into the reservoir of this kit. I would put it in a length of tubing instead. There really isn't enough room under the fill-port cap to add a kill coil.


Thanks Bram!


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Before I reveal my results, I have to say that 140mm fans are amazing. I know I do have 10x Swiftech Helix 140mm PWM fans but this system runs super quiet. All the fans sit at low rpms. The loudest thing in this computer are the 2 water pumps.
> 
> CPU temps I am so/so happy with. First off I have an I7-4770K that is an okay overclocker. I cannot seem to get anything stable beyond 4.4G regardless of what I try. So at 4.4 with my previous H80i with aftermarket fans running essentially full tilt my temps were between 65-70°C in game and it was way loud. With this setup I am now getting between 62-67°C. SO between a 3 to 5° drop. But it is way quieter.
> 
> Now lets talk GPUs. I have SLI GTX Titans running the modded Skyn3t BIOS so it is 1006 base clock and boost is disabled. Without further overclocking I played DA:I for 3 hours and my temps never broke 40°C. To put that in perspective, Before I had to run the Titan fan at 85% and I was reaching 80°C and they do not like that temperature. Having the fan speed any higher than 85% did not drop the temps and also with the stock bios you are not supposed to be able to set the fan more than 85%.
> 
> It is so entirely weird to be playing and have almost no noise coming from the case and seeing the temps in the 30s!
> 
> I will do a gaming marathon of at least 5 hours to see if anything changes and update by Monday probably


Gaming Marathon of at least 5 hours? Cute


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Gaming Marathon of at least 5 hours? Cute


^ lol...


----------



## mistax

this is how i imagine my case airflow once i get my 240x. This should work right, or is it not optimal to use the 240x for exhaust?

edit: Looks like i might just buy the 220-x seems like it'll be a while before the 240 comes back in stock.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Gaming Marathon of at least 5 hours? Cute


Hey man before I got my new job I used to play battlefield for 18+ hours straight on the weekend. I wish I could do more than 5 or so hours


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Before I reveal my results, I have to say that 140mm fans are amazing. I know I do have 10x Swiftech Helix 140mm PWM fans but this system runs super quiet. All the fans sit at low rpms. The loudest thing in this computer are the 2 water pumps.
> 
> CPU temps I am so/so happy with. First off I have an I7-4770K that is an okay overclocker. I cannot seem to get anything stable beyond 4.4G regardless of what I try. So at 4.4 with my previous H80i with aftermarket fans running essentially full tilt my temps were between 65-70°C in game and it was way loud. With this setup I am now getting between 62-67°C. SO between a 3 to 5° drop. But it is way quieter.
> 
> Now lets talk GPUs. I have SLI GTX Titans running the modded Skyn3t BIOS so it is 1006 base clock and boost is disabled. Without further overclocking I played DA:I for 3 hours and my temps never broke 40°C. To put that in perspective, Before I had to run the Titan fan at 85% and I was reaching 80°C and they do not like that temperature. Having the fan speed any higher than 85% did not drop the temps and also with the stock bios you are not supposed to be able to set the fan more than 85%.
> 
> It is so entirely weird to be playing and have almost no noise coming from the case and seeing the temps in the 30s!
> 
> I will do a gaming marathon of at least 5 hours to see if anything changes and update by Monday probably


Oc those gpu a you can get a lot out of them. I have my 780 nvflashed with skynet bios. Than went into msi afterburner up the braves to max safe 1.21 (you can go more but I feel good here) power limits maxed and I have it at. 1260 stable. Before a few weeks ago I had a 8350 now a i7 4790k. My max stable on amd was 1200 so those intel express lanes help. But sorry for rambling. Id do some benchmarking on uniengine valley or heaven and up the clock


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Hi all Swifty users,
> Before i press to buy a H220X, wondering how one can use it with a RV02E case?
> 
> I am thinking of removing the 2 default helix fans and stacking them on the other side of the rad(besides the pump/res). And than using this taller height to leave it on the floor of the RV02E so that the pump/res orientation remains correct.
> 
> Would that work i need some users input as to, would the dual fans be tall enough to overcome the tall pump/res? Or even 3 fans stacking!
> 
> Something like this, i know is a pathetic solution, but i love the RV02E!


If you want to stick with that case go with the h220 non x so you can have both fans. Performs similar and doesn't look bad. Or the nepton or glacer 240l which are pretty much rebranded h220s (well at least the glacer is). I had one and it worked almost as well as my custom setup


----------



## ZC4065

Sup guys. I'm pretty new to the whole liquid cooling thing, and I've read at least 150 pages of this thread and concluded that I'd like to get a h220x in my system! My question is: Is it compatible with the top radiator mount in my case and what would be the best setup for cooling my GPU and CPU? Is the GPU waterblock a major difference?

My specs:
Corsair 500r White
Intel I5-4670k OCed to 4.2 GHz
Xigametek Dark Knight CPU fan
MSI 7990 (reference board)
2x4GB Corsair Vengence
Gigabyte Z87x-SLI
1x DVD Drive
Seagate 1TB HDD
Crucial M500 480GB SSD
Corsair GS700

Also, I live in the UK, is shipping a problem/expensive?


----------



## GTone

RE: ZC4065
The 220x radiator measures 247mm x 126mm x 115mm which is pretty slim in length and width. It makes it a no brainer in many mid towers.
It isn't hard to measure the case?
I stuck a tape in my Nanoxia DS 1 mid tower and the radiator space is 300mm x 140mm+....ish.
Some will depend on MB layout and ram heat spreaders.

The site says 2x140mm fans and 280mm radiators, so I'm guessing a 220x will leave plenty of room.
http://www.corsair.com/es-es/carbide-series-500r-white-mid-tower-case

Still it always is going to depend on what else is in your case. Bust out a tape measure to be sure.
I am new to WC also, but reading up a bunch.

News for me: I got my paid for notice and ups shipping number from the Swiftech store, shows my 220x is on the way(already en route), still a week+ from me because of not many business days in the next week.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I guess it just depends on how the faceplate is oriented but based on the posters of the H220-X (see the one just before this post), the orientation in your system is the one being upside down. I'm just wondering which of the two orientations will put less stress or better looks on the tubings, not really a big deal.


I'm not sure which pics you're looking at, friend, but on the official photo from Swiftech at http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx the Swiftech logo is oriented properly, like mine, with the triangle with the line through it on the upper left.

Personally I put the logo in the upright position regardless of how the stress appears to be on the tubing as it shouldn't make much of a difference either way. "Better looks" is to have the logo correctly oriented. Frankly, tubing stress a silly thing to be concerned about.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTone*
> 
> The 220x radiator measures 247mm x 126mm x 115mm which is pretty slim in length and width. It makes it a no brainer in many mid towers.
> It isn't hard to measure the case?
> I stuck a tape in my Nanoxia DS 1 mid tower and the radiator space is 300mm x 140mm+....ish.
> Some will depend on MB layout and ram heat spreaders.
> 
> The site says 2x140mm fans and 280mm radiators, so I'm guessing a 220x will leave plenty of room.
> http://www.corsair.com/es-es/carbide-series-500r-white-mid-tower-case
> 
> Still it always is going to depend on what else is in your case. Bust out a tape measure to be sure.
> I am new to WC also, but reading up a bunch.
> :


Specs wise and measuring tape wise it seems fine, I just read that it could overlap with the DVD drive and thought I'd ask.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Oc those gpu a you can get a lot out of them. I have my 780 nvflashed with skynet bios. Than went into msi afterburner up the braves to max safe 1.21 (you can go more but I feel good here) power limits maxed and I have it at. 1260 stable. Before a few weeks ago I had a 8350 now a i7 4790k. My max stable on amd was 1200 so those intel express lanes help. But sorry for rambling. Id do some benchmarking on uniengine valley or heaven and up the clock


I am running the Skynet v2 for the Titan. I am going to see how stable 1200 is and probably leave it around there


----------



## ZC4065

Has anybody used the Komodo HD7900 series waterblocks, and if so how was the performance difference compared to stock cooling?


----------



## Mega Man

night and day i have quadfire 7970s

going up to 1.4v i struggled to get to 46c +


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> night and day i have quadfire 7970s
> 
> going up to 1.4v i struggled to get to 46c +


but your rad space is pretty spectacular


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> night and day i have quadfire 7970s
> 
> going up to 1.4v i struggled to get to 46c +


That's good! The 7990 is a beast but a toastie one, and I'd quite like to cut the temps down a notch


----------



## ZC4065

Just went to order, $65 is wild! Any chance there's a coupon or something to knock a couple quid off?


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Just went to order, $65 is wild! Any chance there's a coupon or something to knock a couple quid off?


65? where?


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you want to stick with that case go with the h220 non x so you can have both fans. Performs similar and doesn't look bad. Or the nepton or glacer 240l which are pretty much rebranded h220s (well at least the glacer is). I had one and it worked almost as well as my custom setup


It is sadly H220 is no longer in sales.
Glacer 240l i dont like the sound of its fans though.

RV02E is good because it keeps my GPU VRM cool and also my motherboard VRM cool too!









Just wondering if my mentioned ghetto tweak has a chance of success. Need some measurements advice.


----------



## emsj86

I think it would work but at a hit of your performance. Which at that point a h100i setup normally would perform better. Than setting the h 220x that way or at least I assume


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> 65? where?


From their website. But I have now got one on the way, hopefully will be here in January.

I'll start with the CPU, get that going smoothly, and then work on adding the waterblock to the GPU.

Related question: Are all waterblocks standardised to be compatible with different brands of pump (ie. h220x) or do you need to get the same brand?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> From their website. But I have now got one on the way, hopefully will be here in January.
> 
> I'll start with the CPU, get that going smoothly, and then work on adding the waterblock to the GPU.
> 
> Related question: Are all waterblocks standardised to be compatible with different brands of pump (ie. h220x) or do you need to get the same brand?


brands don't matter to much other that quality if you cheap out there are some blocks more restrictive than others but H220-X should handle any blocks you throw at it....so yes they will work with any pump provided the fittings you choose are same size as your tubing which goes without saying


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> brands don't matter to much other that quality if you cheap out there are some blocks more restrictive than others but H220-X should handle any blocks you throw at it....so yes they will work with any pump provided the fittings you choose are same size as your tubing which goes without saying


I've done the research into the main brands of waterblock such as EK and XSPC, but which brand would you advise as best value for money?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I've done the research into the main brands of waterblock such as EK and XSPC, but which brand would you advise as best value for money?


perhaps someone who has used both can help you here...I don't like to speculate on something I've never used anyone care to comment? From what I have read though xspc is a bit cheaper and pretty good quality but the card you have may factor into this as well. Everything I've used from xspc has been good stuff but if I were you u would look at both blocks and reviews for each


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> perhaps someone who has used both can help you here...I don't like to speculate on something I've never used anyone care to comment? From what I have read though xspc is a bit cheaper and pretty good quality but the card you have may factor into this as well. Everything I've used from xspc has been good stuff but if I were you u would look at both blocks and reviews for each


You make a fair point. I'd honestly go for the Swiftech but they don't seem to be in stock, so I'm just keeping my options open.

I like the look of the XSPC (not just cause the colours suit my setup), but I want to make sure I see the whole market before I decide like I did with the watercooler itself.


----------



## emsj86

I prefer the ek bc the clear evo looks nice. I be read a round up of cpu blocks and it performs better than the xspc note were talking 1-3 degree difference. Than also factor the xspc is 10-30 dollars cheaper. I'd go with what fits your budget or looks as the difference in temps on the major cpu blocks isn't much


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I prefer the ek bc the clear evo looks nice. I be read a round up of cpu blocks and it performs better than the xspc note were talking 1-3 degree difference. Than also factor the xspc is 10-30 dollars cheaper. I'd go with what fits your budget or looks as the difference in temps on the major cpu blocks isn't much


I'll definitely take that into consideration, thank you!

Would you advise using the thermal compound supplied with it, or using an aftermarket one?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> I'm not sure which pics you're looking at, friend, but on the official photo from Swiftech at http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx the Swiftech logo is oriented properly, like mine, with the triangle with the line through it on the upper left.
> 
> Personally I put the logo in the upright position regardless of how the stress appears to be on the tubing as it shouldn't make much of a difference either way. "Better looks" is to have the logo correctly oriented. Frankly, tubing stress a silly thing to be concerned about.


I know it's silly but I'm just saying.

Check the pic in the Swiftech website link you've posted, see the tubings? The left tubing (in the pump) goes all the way to the top of the waterblock and the right tubing to the bottom of the waterblock. And you're right about the Swiftech logo orientation.

Now, in the pic of your system that you've posted here the Swiftech logo orientation is correct but the tubings are in the other way around (left to bottom and right to top). This is what I was telling you









@All

What is the best way to get those plastic push pins off of the faceplate? I'm having a hard time using a knife when the waterblock is already installed because of the tight space inside. I don't want to scratch anything on the faceplate.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I'll definitely take that into consideration, thank you!
> 
> Would you advise using the thermal compound supplied with it, or using an aftermarket one?


I like the mx4 and the antec Diamond 7 although it's thicker and a little harder to work with...Most of the pastes that come with blocks now are decent you would again be looking at 1 to 3c with proper application between the best pastes... The cpu block that comes with the H220-X is a pretty damned good one...


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @All
> 
> What is the best way to get those plastic push pins off of the faceplate? I'm having a hard time using a knife when the waterblock is already installed because of the tight space inside. I don't want to scratch anything on the faceplate.


Have you tried a pair of pliers? Probably a pair of long nose pliers would do the trick.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I like the mx4 and the antec Diamond 7 although it's thicker and a little harder to work with...Most of the pastes that come with blocks now are decent you would again be looking at 1 to 3c with proper application between the best pastes... The cpu block that comes with the H220-X is a pretty damned good one...


That's perfect, 1-3c isn't really worth the extra money it would take!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> That's perfect, 1-3c isn't really worth the extra money it would take!


and if you decide to push it to the edges you can always change pastes later


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Have you tried a pair of pliers? Probably a pair of long nose pliers would do the trick.


I used the small pair of wire cutters with the beveled single edge but then decided I liked the blue







you could also take a razor blade and slip it under the edge. .. needle nose would be more likely to Marr the finish but do able if careful


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I know it's silly but I'm just saying.
> 
> Check the pic in the Swiftech website link you've posted, see the tubings? The left tubing (in the pump) goes all the way to the top of the waterblock and the right tubing to the bottom of the waterblock. And you're right about the Swiftech logo orientation.
> 
> Now, in the pic of your system that you've posted here the Swiftech logo orientation is correct but the tubings are in the other way around (left to bottom and right to top). This is what I was telling you


I make sure the logo is the correct orientation and the tubings are where they are. Can't change them unless I disconnect and reconnect them or put the logo upside-down. Without any proof that it matters, I'm leaving it like it is.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starrbuck*
> 
> I make sure the logo is the correct orientation and the tubings are where they are. Can't change them unless I disconnect and reconnect them or put the logo upside-down. Without any proof that it matters, I'm leaving it like it is.


It doesn't make any difference how the water block is oriented.


----------



## VSG

I noticed a slight difference but not enough to justify choosing orientation over best tube layout.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the best way to get those plastic push pins off of the faceplate? I'm having a hard time using a knife when the waterblock is already installed because of the tight space inside. I don't want to scratch anything on the faceplate.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Have you tried a pair of pliers? Probably a pair of long nose pliers would do the trick.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I used the small pair of wire cutters with the beveled single edge but then decided I liked the blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you could also take a razor blade and slip it under the edge. .. needle nose would be more likely to Marr the finish but do able if careful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*


Haven't tried a pair of pliers yet. I'll try using a long nose pliers but I hope it doesn't scratch anything. It could've been so much easier if these were small screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I noticed a slight difference but not enough to justify choosing orientation over best tube layout.


What kind of difference? Temps? Which tube layout was better? And I'm not sure why it would make a difference.


----------



## VSG

Look at the H220-X review linked in my sig below. Depending on the CPU die structure and the layout of the cold plate, almost every modern block has one favorable orientation to a particular chip.


----------



## dansi

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/12/19/cooler-master-asetek-patent/1

Bad news for Glacer240L in the US as asssstek won!


----------



## zila

I would try fine tipped curved tweezers.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2014/12/19/cooler-master-asetek-patent/1
> 
> Bad news for Glacer240L in the US as asssstek won!


Oh man, that sucks. Well at least I purchased a 240L while I could. It works fine and so does my H220.


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I think it would work but at a hit of your performance. Which at that point a h100i setup normally would perform better. Than setting the h 220x that way or at least I assume


thanks mate!

Hope to hear from Swifty themselves on the possibility, Bram?

The H100i is i dont like it. One because its Assstek, the patent troll.

Two because using a HW-E, i believe the new H220X has more headroom to dissipate the heat on the extreme ends!

Three obviously is the better quality of H220X.

I handled the H90 and H220 before, and its day and night in built for a fraction more in price.

I made a mistake in selling my old H220 because i found it too powerful for my daily driver cooling.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look at the H220-X review linked in my sig below. Depending on the CPU die structure and the layout of the cold plate, almost every modern block has one favorable orientation to a particular chip.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but the orientation you were talking about in your review was between the 0deg vs. 90deg, right? The one we were originally comparing was between 0deg vs. 180deg. which are just about the same.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you dont have to monitor pwm directly, stating what the RPM is like on HWMonitor should be enough information.


Here you go:



That's still around 30C ambient. CPU is at 3.8GHz @ 1.24V with HT enabled. CPUFANIN is the RPM of the two push intake Helix 120 PWM fans and AUXFANIN2 is the CPU Pump RPM. Based on the HWMonitor readings, it seems that both are already runnning at max speed (100% PWM). The core temps were 68C, 71C, 71C, and 71C.

Are those normal?

EDIT: Sorry for the double post.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> It is sadly H220 is no longer in sales.
> Glacer 240l i dont like the sound of its fans though.
> 
> RV02E is good because it keeps my GPU VRM cool and also my motherboard VRM cool too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if my mentioned ghetto tweak has a chance of success. Need some measurements advice.


Something like this should solve your issues nicely: http://koolance.com/radiator-mounting-bracket-with-quick-release

You may need to fab and add a shroud around the kit though, to limit to cooler to pulling air from outside the case, and the the immediate surrounding area underneath it.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

So - once the UK customs thing is resolved I intend to pickup a H220X and immediately add a water block for my R9 290. It's reference so the blocks should be quite cheap.

Anyway - what part(s) should I be looking to acquire, what should I use to top up the res and what're the pitfalls I'll have to dodge in my first ever loop?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So - once the UK customs thing is resolved I intend to pickup a H220X


UK customs thing?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> UK customs thing?


All H X series AIO loops are currently held in EU customs.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> All H X series AIO loops are currently held in EU customs.


What?? I just ordered mine, it's going to be held? Why are they and how long will it be?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> What?? I just ordered mine, it's going to be held? Why are they and how long will it be?


Apparently. From where did you order yours?

This is info from the Swiftech rep and the Swiftech forums - would love to be proven wrong as it'd mean I could order one with confidence.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Apparently. From where did you order yours?
> 
> This is info from the Swiftech rep and the Swiftech forums - would love to be proven wrong as it'd mean I could order one with confidence.


From the Swiftech site using PayPal. Well this is a pain!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but the orientation you were talking about in your review was between the 0deg vs. 90deg, right? The one we were originally comparing was between 0deg vs. 180deg. which are just about the same.


0 and 180 is the same as you said. You can even just flip around the faceplate too.

That Asetek patent case was against the CM Seidon series mostly, but I did hear about a possible injunction against sales of Seidon and Nepton possibly coming up. On the other hand, that very Asetek patent is under review so who knows?


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> All H X series AIO loops are currently held in EU customs.


Its FR customs actually.
The shipment in question is towards Bacata, Swiftech's EU distributor.
To make matters worse, Bacata is in the process of moving facilties which has delayed things even further...
At least this is the official Swiftech reply to questions regarding EU availablility


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> Its FR customs actually.
> The shipment in question is towards Bacata, Swiftech's EU distributor.
> To make matters worse, Bacata is in the process of moving facilties which has delayed things even further...
> At least this is the official Swiftech reply to questions regarding EU availablility


Yes, they posted that on the 21st Dec. Hopefully it'll be sorted by January, really want to get the H220-X set up!


----------



## broncogr

My order for H240-x is up with Highflow since November...


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> My order for H240-x is up with Highflow since November...


Have they said anything about why it's being held?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

You might be alright, if its being shipped direct from the US it wont be in tge held shipment as far as i understand tbe situatikn.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> You might be alright, if its being shipped direct from the US it wont be in tge held shipment as far as i understand tbe situatikn.


I paid $65 shipping so I very much hope so!


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Have they said anything about why it's being held?


Yes, same as what Swiftech has said


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 0 and 180 is the same as you said. You can even just flip around the faceplate too.
> 
> That Asetek patent case was against the CM Seidon series mostly, but I did hear about a possible injunction against sales of Seidon and Nepton possibly coming up. On the other hand, that very Asetek patent is under review so who knows?


That's right. But I'm juet really having a hard time getting those push pins off of the face plate while the block is already installed.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I know what you mean. Fingernails were what helped me out there, and getting the faceplate and the color plate out is even harder. But Gavush's idea of a small pick really makes sense and would be very handy I bet.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Anyone know what the highflow shipping to UK is?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Anyone know what the highflow shipping to UK is?


Well the two options were $65 and $75, with the first being the standard international.


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Anyone know what the highflow shipping to UK is?


Create an account and start inputting the order.
It will show you the shipping before order is complete so you can see for yourself.
I would estimate around 30euro


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I'll definitely take that into consideration, thank you!
> 
> Would you advise using the thermal compound supplied with it, or using an aftermarket one?


The ek blocks come with rebranded gelid extreme which is very good. Not sure what xspc comes with. I m not big on knowing what compounds are good. I've used as-5 and gelid extreme and cooler master. All but the cooler master worked well for me. Cooler master was too much liquid


----------



## VSG

^ That's only for the Supremacy Evo (non elite) CPU blocks. The GPU blocks come with their EK Ectotherm which I am not sure who the OEM is, while the Supremacy Elite CPU blocks comes with Indigo Extreme.


----------



## emsj86

Your right. I should of noted I was just referring to the supremacy evo blocks.


----------



## mistax

im waiting for 240x to come into stock for the states again. Was getting parts for new computer and i guess this will be a long wait.


----------



## ZC4065

Well, I'll cross my fingers and hope my H220-X slips through customs!


----------



## sugalumps

Please oh please oh please swiftech start selling these through Uk amazon, would pick one up in a heart beat as I am sure many others would.


----------



## ZC4065

I'm genuinely holding on to the hope that because I ordered it directly from their website, it'll get shipped directly to me instead of having to go through the French Customs.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Please oh please oh please swiftech start selling these through Uk amazon, would pick one up in a heart beat as I am sure many others would.


We don't have any arrangements with the UK Amazon site. If these do get sold through that site it will be from resellers that have arrangements with the UK Amazon site.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I'm genuinely holding on to the hope that because I ordered it directly from their website, it'll get shipped directly to me instead of having to go through the French Customs.


If you purchased the kit directly from us then you don't have anything to worry about. The issue is with the kits that are being sent to our European distributor, Bacata.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't have any arrangements with the UK Amazon site. If these do get sold through that site it will be from resellers that have arrangements with the UK Amazon site.
> If you purchased the kit directly from us then you don't have anything to worry about. The issue is with the kits that are being sent to our European distributor, Bacata.


You are a life saver! That $65 was definitely worth it then!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I know what you mean. Fingernails were what helped me out there, and getting the faceplate and the color plate out is even harder. But Gavush's idea of a small pick really makes sense and would be very handy I bet.


I guess so. It's just that the pick will be as long as a pen, at the very least, and it would still be a tight fit inside. I can try using small tweezer and hope that would work but I doubt there would be enough grip to the pins again.

Oh by the way, can you help me out with my post here?

Thanks.


----------



## mistax

@bramsli do you happen to have an estimation on when the 240-x will be back in stock for the US


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I guess so. It's just that the pick will be as long as a pen, at the very least, and it would still be a tight fit inside. I can try using small tweezer and hope that would work but I doubt there would be enough grip to the pins again.
> 
> Oh by the way, can you help me out with my post here?
> 
> Thanks.


If 30 ºC is indeed your ambient temp then those are pretty good CPU temps for that Prime95 AVX test









You can go quieter on the fans if you wish, you won't lose much performance given that thin rad isn't really a high FPI one.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If 30 ºC is indeed your ambient temp then those are pretty good CPU temps for that Prime95 AVX test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can go quieter on the fans if you wish, you won't lose much performance given that thin rad isn't really a high FPI one.


That's nice to hear then. I guess the 3-month wait for these H220-X's to arrive in our country was worth the wait









Well, I'm planning to overclock my CPU to as much as I can so I'll take a look at the optimal fan speed after I reach its max potential.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Really impressed with my 240x, I'm only running stock speeds at the moment on my 4790k as I'm still in testing stage at the moment but after running Prime 95 after an hour I'm still sitting under 50c across all core's, really impressed with this thing. My only compliant about the kit was the installation of the CPU block, coming from a H100i I found the install of the block much harder with the spring screws.


----------



## Mega Man

most do, the way i do it, is i take the mobo/and or case and lay a pillow or cloth ( folded ) down, lay something anti static ( i dont but i always recommend people do ) and then lay the mobo with backplate installed down, i can install the block from start to finish in ~ 2 min no issues

cute dog btw


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> My only compliant about the kit was the installation of the CPU block, coming from a H100i I found the install of the block much harder with the spring screws.


You aren't the first person I have heard say this. I have installed this block a bunch of times and find that it all but installs itself - I don't even have to break out the screwdriver until the last bit of tightening. I'm starting to wonder if there is something in the install instructions that is a bit off.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most do, the way i do it, is i take the mobo/and or case and lay a pillow or cloth ( folded ) down, lay something anti static ( i dont but i always recommend people do ) and then lay the mobo with backplate installed down, i can install the block from start to finish in ~ 2 min no issues
> 
> cute dog btw


I can see that working, had the board in my 540. It was an interesting install and I was sure I screwed up my TIM but the temps tell me otherwise, just didn't go a smooth as I was planning on. If there was a way to lock the backplate down then there would be no issue. You'd think there would be some sort of temporary clamp we could use of the back of the boards by now only to hold the backplate down and then pull off once fully installed. Maybe I need to invent something like that


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I can see that working, had the board in my 540. It was an interesting install and I was sure I screwed up my TIM but the temps tell me otherwise, just didn't go a smooth as I was planning on. If there was a way to lock the backplate down then there would be no issue. You'd think there would be some sort of temporary clamp we could use of the back of the boards by now only to hold the backplate down and then pull off once fully installed. Maybe I need to invent something like that


Could always just get an unlucky friend to hold it for a while.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most do, the way i do it, is i take the mobo/and or case and lay a pillow or cloth ( folded ) down, lay something anti static ( i dont but i always recommend people do ) and then lay the mobo with backplate installed down, i can install the block from start to finish in ~ 2 min no issues
> 
> cute dog btw


That's my method as well almost exactly. It's by far the simplest I have found so far.


----------



## Gavush

Yupi used some electrical tape to hold the plate in place then set the case down on a. folded up a hand towel to about the size of the cutout on the mobo tray. Worked great.


----------



## ZeDestructor

It finally arrived!



Yes, I know it's messy, there's cables everywhere and there's dust everywhere. This is only temporary until I move up to Haswell-E in a 900D, at which point I'll neaten things up properly (and cleanup this machine before I pass it on..) and do all the cable hiding.. Really, this is just built to make sure it works properly and without leaking


----------



## mistax

well this sucks. Ordered the 220-x this morning to be able to complete my build this week and like 4 hours latter the 240-x is back in stock. =/ 15% restocking fee.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> well this sucks. Ordered the 220-x this morning to be able to complete my build this week and like 4 hours latter the 240-x is back in stock. =/ 15% restocking fee.


Is the difference between them huge?


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Is the difference between them huge?


based on the review, they are about the same performance. but the 240-x should be a bit better if i wanted to expand the loop.


----------



## VSG

Alternatively, you can just buy a bigger rad when expanding the H220-X itself.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> based on the review, they are about the same performance. but the 240-x should be a bit better if i wanted to expand the loop.


Aye fair enough. I'll be expanding at a later date whenever I get the second 7990, but I'll just add an H140-X to the loop


----------



## Dudewitbow

The feeling i get waiting for my pump to arrive(in just under a rough 2 months(evil holiday seasons), and throwing it in Valley/IBT AVX and only topping with ~40c gpu and 60c cpu


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> The feeling i get waiting for my pump to arrive(in just under a rough 2 months(evil holiday seasons), and throwing it in Valley/IBT AVX and only topping with ~40c gpu and 60c cpu


Good feeling?


----------



## fuloran1

I like it.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> The feeling i get waiting for my pump to arrive(in just under a rough 2 months(evil holiday seasons), and throwing it in Valley/IBT AVX and only topping with ~40c gpu and 60c cpu


You've been waiting two months? Wow, that's patience!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> You've been waiting two months? Wow, that's patience!


yeah, it was initially due to email problems or UPS automated system(never really found out what exactally). It was just a coincidence that it prolonged into the holiday season, which isn't very shipping friendly. Didn't help that I couldn't use my gpu properly due to modifying the original air cooling heatsink.


----------



## liberato87

REVIEW of the Swiftech H220X

http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/swiftech-h220-x-l-aio-ibrido-che-non-teme-confronti-con-gli-impianti-custom-2014123010402/


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> REVIEW of the Swiftech H220X
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/swiftech-h220-x-l-aio-ibrido-che-non-teme-confronti-con-gli-impianti-custom-2014123010402/


Google translate has failed me


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> REVIEW of the Swiftech H220X
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/swiftech-h220-x-l-aio-ibrido-che-non-teme-confronti-con-gli-impianti-custom-2014123010402/


Thank you for posting this. Please let me know if you need anything else.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Google translate has failed me


ehehhe I know it will be hard with google translate but graphics are clear, very strong performance!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thank you for posting this. Please let me know if you need anything else.


so the Boss is here









email for you


----------



## spacetoast31

im curious, how strong do you think the pump is, if i were to be using some longer length tubing...? im talking close to 4 to 5 ft worth of tubing throughout and 2 additional radiators (dual140 and triple 120), a 250mm multiz res, 2 gpu and cpu. I built a desk case and want to use my h220x for it. Or do you think i will need to add one more pump half way through the lop to give it some pressure in the further end?
Maybe @BramSLI1 Could maybe throw me an idea?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> ehehhe I know it will be hard with google translate but graphics are clear, very strong performance!


Got translate working, great review! Was thinking of doing one myself, if I can get a moment to spare from Uni! Computer Science is busy


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> im curious, how strong do you think the pump is, if i were to be using some longer length tubing...? im talking close to 4 to 5 ft worth of tubing throughout and 2 additional radiators (dual140 and triple 120), a 250mm multiz res, 2 gpu and cpu. I built a desk case and want to use my h220x for it. Or do you think i will need to add one more pump half way through the lop to give it some pressure in the further end?
> Maybe @BramSLI1 Could maybe throw me an idea?


I conferred with our engineer here about your proposed loop and he also suggests adding an additional pump system to aid with coolant flow. You could even add in a MCR-140X drive unit into the system. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you seen this
> 
> 
> 
> ?


How many of these adapters are needed to go hardline tubing?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> How many of these adapters are needed to go hardline tubing?


Just one for the pump outlet. It's the only fitting installed on this kit that isn't a standard G 1/4.


----------



## kevindd992002

@BramSLI1

I'm just wondering why did you decide to use those difficult push pins for the faceplate?


----------



## ZC4065

I'm planning on expanding the cooling rig overtime if the H220x is a success, which will consist of 2xMSI 7990s with waterblocks, and my CPU. Is the H220x enough pump for that all, or should I think about adding in a repeater pump to help speed it up? The 7990s are notoriously powerful but hot cards, and I want to maximise the potential out of the cooling rig.

May make a YouTube series on this, could be a fun adventure!


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just one for the pump outlet. It's the only fitting installed on this kit that isn't a standard G 1/4.


Nice..
I have a weird question:
Would it be wise to swap the water block for one of those bitspower blocks for the Asus maximus/rampage line of boards?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> 
> I'm just wondering why did you decide to use those difficult push pins for the faceplate?


It wasn't my decision.







I think the reason you are having an issue is because you really do need to change out the colored plates without the block installed in the system. Trying to do it afterwards is going to be extremely difficult.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Nice..
> I have a weird question:
> Would it be wise to swap the water block for one of those bitspower blocks for the Asus maximus/rampage line of boards?


I don't know anything about those and therefore I have no data as to which would be better.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It wasn't my decision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the reason you are having an issue is because you really do need to change out the colored plates without the block installed in the system. Trying to do it afterwards is going to be extremely difficult.
> I don't know anything about those and therefore I have no data as to which would be better.


Lol, I meant Swiftech. Well, I already changed the colored plate even before installing and it was hard even then. My goal right now is to turn the face plate 180deg clockwise so that the Swiftech logo will be upright.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Lol, I meant Swiftech. Well, I already changed the colored plate even before installing and it was hard even then. My goal right now is to turn the face plate 180deg clockwise so that the Swiftech logo will be upright.


Try using a pair of tweezers or a pair of needle-nosed pliers.


----------



## fuloran1

So, I am in shock. I mean, these are the temps I got in prime95 during the small fft test...just wow. Max is third from the left. (Sig is correct, I am at 4.5ghz and1.33vcore)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> So, I am in shock. I mean, these are the temps I got in prime95 during the small fft test...just wow. Max is third from the left. (Sig is correct, I am at 4.5ghz and1.33vcore)


That's impressive! What is your ambient temp?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's impressive! What is your ambient temp?


Not super high, but certainly not freezing. Maybe 68-70?


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> So, I am in shock. I mean, these are the temps I got in prime95 during the small fft test...just wow. Max is third from the left. (Sig is correct, I am at 4.5ghz and1.33vcore)


I get basiclly tge same temps for my build. my avg after an hour of aida64 is 47ish give or take 1 degree


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Not super high, but certainly not freezing. Maybe 68-70?


Ok. That's about 21C. Mine runs at around 1.24V, 70C average core temps, but that's around 30C ambient. Does that correlate accurately?


----------



## ZeDestructor

So it was cool today (if you can call 25-28°C cool....), so I decided to do some stresstesting...

prime95 (around 25°C ambient):


IBT (around 28° ambient, run immediately after prime95, after boosting from +0.035V to +0.050V):


Ignore the 101 and 106GFLOPs results.. was web browsing at the same time and those hit the SSD and chugged as IPC happened. I know the PC is stable, just wanted temps









I reckon I could hit somewhere in 4.6-4.8GHz stable, but as stated before, this rig is being sold soon, so I really can't be arsed to go beyond the 4.4GHz it can do on air.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> So, I am in shock. I mean, these are the temps I got in prime95 during the small fft test...just wow. Max is third from the left. (Sig is correct, I am at 4.5ghz and1.33vcore)


Keep going higher. Got my 2500k @ 5.0 with 1.38. Current max temps are in the low 60s


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Keep going higher. Got my 2500k @ 5.0 with 1.38. Current max temps are in the low 60s


That's the plan!


----------



## emsj86

Good for you idk how you get those temps. I have two rads 360 and. 240 on a custom loop and manual vtage at 1.29 at 4.8ghz i7 4790k and lowest idle reaches is 29 degrees and max of 75


----------



## fuloran1

Hmm, have you tried re-seating the block? What TIM are you using?


----------



## Fletcherea

So I snagged one of these fan/rad grills for my 220x and a single for my 120 add on rad, but none of my screws are long enough, they end up just a bit under flush with the grills and fan holes. Are the long screws that come with the 220x M3 30mm? I need to order something slightly longer, but don't know how long these ones are


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Good for you idk how you get those temps. I have two rads 360 and. 240 on a custom loop and manual vtage at 1.29 at 4.8ghz i7 4790k and lowest idle reaches is 29 degrees and max of 75


Sounds about right. The 2500K is a much cooler running chip than the 4790K thanks to better TIM used to mate the heat spreader.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fletcherea*
> 
> Are the long screws that come with the 220x M3 30mm?


Yes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sounds about right. The 2500K is a much cooler running chip than the 4790K thanks to better TIM used to mate the heat spreader.


How about the 2600K, does it run hotter than the 2500K, probably because of HT?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Alright - so what would I need to buy for my H220X to add a GPU block? i.e. which barbs, which tubing, and should I replace the stock tubing as well?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Alright - so what would I need to buy for my H220X to add a GPU block? i.e. which barbs, which tubing, and should I replace the stock tubing as well?


You need your GPU block of choice, two fittings (you can use 3/8" barbs, but 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings are recommended) and a coolant - either a premixed like Swiftech Hydrx PM 2 or distilled water with a biocide. In many case setups the included tubing is long enough, but this would be a good time to change to the 3/8 x 5/8 Primochill or XSPC in your choice of color.

Personally, I would change out to compression fittings on the CPU block when you do this, also, and add a 45 degree on the top GPU fitting to point it more directly at the CPU block and another to the top CPU fitting to point it more directly at the pump. Just makes for a cleaner look.


----------



## Train Wreck

When I unboxed my H240X, I thought "crap....they forgot to add coolant to it!". Hoping that maybe it would appear in the reservoir window when it's powered on, I proceeded with the installation. I powered up the system, and it looked like coolant filled the window(looked almost milky white) and the tubes felt cold.

I could swear that there is no fluid in that reservoir window when the system is off. Is that normal? Or am I being paranoid?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> When I unboxed my H240X, I thought "crap....they forgot to add coolant to it!". Hoping that maybe it would appear in the reservoir window when it's powered on, I proceeded with the installation. I powered up the system, and it looked like coolant filled the window(looked almost milky white) and the tubes felt cold.
> 
> I could swear that there is no fluid in that reservoir window when the system is off. Is that normal? Or am I being paranoid?


There has to be coolant, the loop should be filled 99.99% all the way


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> There has to be coolant, the loop should be filled 99.99% all the way


I understand that but I could swear that there was no fluid visible in that window.

After turning it on, those tubes felt cold so that told me that there was definitely coolant in there. I was just unable to get a visual


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> When I unboxed my H240X, I thought "crap....they forgot to add coolant to it!". Hoping that maybe it would appear in the reservoir window when it's powered on, I proceeded with the installation. I powered up the system, and it looked like coolant filled the window(looked almost milky white) and the tubes felt cold.
> 
> I could swear that there is no fluid in that reservoir window when the system is off. Is that normal? Or am I being paranoid?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I understand that but I could swear that there was no fluid visible in that window.
> 
> After turning it on, those tubes felt cold so that told me that there was definitely coolant in there. I was just unable to get a visual


Perfectly normal. That's what happens when you fill up with a transparent fluid - it becomes nice and invisible when still.


----------



## Train Wreck

Just suppose that there WAS no fluid in there, the tubes would not feel cold when running and it would've taken seconds for the CPU to overheat, correct?


----------



## Train Wreck

About the PWM fan hub that came with the H240x....

can I connect non-PWM fans to it?

I connected all of my case fans(Air Series AF140L) to it and everything seems to be working fine but I just didn't know if I should connect those fans to the motherboard headers.

Thanks!


----------



## VSG

No point, unless you want them to just run at full speed.


----------



## Train Wreck

Ok, then I'll connect the case fans to the motherboard headers when I pick up the computer


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You need your GPU block of choice, two fittings (you can use 3/8" barbs, but 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings are recommended) and a coolant - either a premixed like Swiftech Hydrx PM 2 or distilled water with a biocide. In many case setups the included tubing is long enough, but this would be a good time to change to the 3/8 x 5/8 Primochill or XSPC in your choice of color.
> 
> Personally, I would change out to compression fittings on the CPU block when you do this, also, and add a 45 degree on the top GPU fitting to point it more directly at the CPU block and another to the top CPU fitting to point it more directly at the pump. Just makes for a cleaner look.


So it's all G1/4 compression fittings and tubing right? Which is shorthand for 3/8 x 5/8?

What kind of compression fittings should I be looking for? Nickel in particular?

Surely as a bare minimum I'd need additional cabling? Might as well replace the lot.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So it's all G1/4 compression fittings and tubing right? Which is shorthand for 3/8 x 5/8?
> 
> What kind of compression fittings should I be looking for? Nickel in particular?
> 
> Surely as a bare minimum I'd need additional cabling? Might as well replace the lot.


Yes, they are all G1/4 fitting and 3/8 x 5/8 is the correct size if you plan on using the stock tubing or will be replacing with the same size. You don't have to use compression fittings, barbs work fine if that is your preference.

You would also need the Swiftech adapter if you want to change the outlet port from a barb: http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## Gavush

Yes and do note the adapter fitting is a little tricky to install. Read the directions on the website. You really do need a long, very thin / flexible small Phillips screwdriver.

I used a medium length one and ground the shaft smaller w/ a bench grinder until it was flexible enough to work. Not ideal but worked out ok.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Attaching the adapter is not easy. I sanded down the lip above the screw. Made tightening much easier.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Yes and do note the adapter fitting is a little tricky to install. Read the directions on the website. You really do need a long, very thin / flexible small Phillips screwdriver.
> 
> I used a medium length one and ground the shaft smaller w/ a bench grinder until it was flexible enough to work. Not ideal but worked out ok.


What tip size does it need to be? #0, #1?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Just suppose that there WAS no fluid in there, the tubes would not feel cold when running and it would've taken seconds for the CPU to overheat, correct?


If there was no water in the reservoir, the pump would have screamed like a banshee before anything else even becomes a concern. The pump would then subsequently crawl to its death in 10 seconds or so.

The noise of a dried pump is scary enough that your post would have multiple "omgs" and "***s" over them (even if you have never heard a pump die). So seeing that you have none of that, your H240x is working absolutely fine.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> What tip size does it need to be? #0, #1?


I'm not sure what size it is. Looks like the tip is 2.5mm across.


----------



## Swuell

How big is the H240x compared to the H220x and which one would fit a phantom 410? Currently I have a H100 sitting up top... Not sure if that helps.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Just the difference in 2 120mm fans and 2 140mm fans


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Just the difference in 2 120mm fans and 2 140mm fans


Yeah but I want to know of that could fit in a phantom 410 the 240 one anyways. And besides the fans does the 240 cool any better significantly? If not might as well get the 220... Also do you know of an alternative to swiftechs radiator pump since they only come in wrong and the back of my case is a 120mm... And so is my front...


----------



## ssgtnubb

I can't say on the difference; I've got the 240x up from a h100i and it's amazing the difference; the pump is surprisingly thin.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I can't say on the difference; I've got the 240x up from a h100i and it's amazing the difference; the pump is surprisingly thin.


Oh would it fit within a phantom 410? What are the dimensions of the rad is it that much bigger? If not it should fit then.

Also are there any alternatives for the single 140mm radiator pump since I wanted to add an GPU...

EDIT: the 140mm wouldn't fit in the rear of my case since my rear is 120mm and my front is 120mm and my side is 140mm but I highl doubt there's enough clearance for the radiator pump where the side of the 140mm is located... So does anybody know of a good alternative radiator pump that is 120mm or can I only do radiators at 120mm?


----------



## ssgtnubb

The thickness of the rad is the same as the 120, just more surface area since the rad is longer and wider.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> The thickness of the rad is the same as the 120, just more surface area since the rad is longer and wider.


Ah well the only have the 120 in stock :\. I guess I'll have to make do with the 120 then... so any alternatives to the 140mm radiator+pump? For the GPU loop? Should I just get their 120mm radiator plus another pump + small reservoir?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ah well the only have the 120 in stock :\. I guess I'll have to make do with the 120 then... so any alternatives to the 140mm radiator+pump? For the GPU loop? Should I just get their 120mm radiator plus another pump + small reservoir?


No, you don't need another pump and res for a single GPU loop. Just get another rad (recommended at least a 240 rad if you run a toasty card i.e 290/290x), tubes, fittings and of course the GPU block.


----------



## 66racer

Thought I would post my h220 cpu only loop going through a 180mm in my tj08e...Due to a recent RMA I have the newer pump in the h220


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> No, you don't need another pump and res for a single GPU loop. Just get another rad (recommended at least a 240 rad if you run a toasty card i.e 290/290x), tubes, fittings and of course the GPU block.


At least a 240 rad just for the card itself -- I doubt I can fit even one 240 in a phantom 410??? :O Plus the don't have any 240's left


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Could a H220X with additional water block cool a 2500k and R9 290 or is a second rad required?

The 240 rad provided would be intake.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thought I would post my h220 cpu only loop going through a 180mm in my tj08e...Due to a recent RMA I have the newer pump in the h220


I originally was looking into a TJ08e build, but I suspected it wouldn't have been able to fit the original h220 res, Tis why I'm using a PS07B-W. Though I love my first experience with silverstone as the case is nice.


----------



## Swuell

So the card itself needs a 240mm rad if you have a 290x :O?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You need your GPU block of choice, two fittings (you can use 3/8" barbs, but 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings are recommended) and a coolant - either a premixed like Swiftech Hydrx PM 2 or distilled water with a biocide. In many case setups the included tubing is long enough, but this would be a good time to change to the 3/8 x 5/8 Primochill or XSPC in your choice of color.
> 
> Personally, I would change out to compression fittings on the CPU block when you do this, also, and add a 45 degree on the top GPU fitting to point it more directly at the CPU block and another to the top CPU fitting to point it more directly at the pump. Just makes for a cleaner look.


Any other coolant suggestions? They are out of that coolant...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Any other coolant suggestions? They are out of that coolant...


Mayhems X1 or Pastel coolants or any EK coolant (also made for them by Mayhems).

Are there any other coolants besides Mayhems that have an OCN club thread filled with members going on 10000 posts and the owner active on the thread answering questions and otherwise offering support? That was rhetorical of course.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mayhems X1 or Pastel coolants or any EK coolant (also made for them by Mayhems).
> 
> Are there any other coolants besides Mayhems that have an OCN club thread filled with members going on 10000 posts and the owner active on the thread answering questions and otherwise offering support? That was rhetorical of course.


Erm I didn't now that was a thing haaa. So nope -- didn't now that! Thanks though!









And what would you suggest for an alternative for an radiator pump to the Swiftech 140mm radiator pump since that won't fit in my case? I'm looking for an 120mm. Would I need both an radiator and another pump along with an reservoir or just another radiator and a reservoir (which would help with leaking out the fluids I heard) and forgo the pump? This is for an R9 290x Lightning card.

Since I heard apparently I needed an 240mm radiator just for one card... which is impossible since I think that barely fits in my case and also the H240-x's are already sold out and the only h-220x I was going to get from amazon sold out (within a couple hours!) so I had to order from swiftech!! >__< Ordered the h220-x. Cost me about $171 something in total due to $31 something in shipping for usps priority mail... T__T.

Also suggestions on tubings, barbs, etc? And hello again by the way and happy new year!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Could a H220X with additional water block cool a 2500k and R9 290 or is a second rad required?
> 
> The 240 rad provided would be intake.


You can try it but under load would need the fans at 100%. As a test I ran my 2700k and gtx 770 both heavily overclocked on the stock 240mm and with 100% fan speed temps were actually pretty good. Ideally another 240mm would be the way to go though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Any other coolant suggestions? They are out of that coolant...


I am using mayhems pastel red in the build i just posted. Color is just what I wanted.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Erm I didn't now that was a thing haaa. So nope -- didn't now that! Thanks though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what would you suggest for an alternative for an radiator pump to the Swiftech 140mm radiator pump since that won't fit in my case? I'm looking for an 120mm. Would I need both an radiator and another pump along with an reservoir or just another radiator and a reservoir (which would help with leaking out the fluids I heard) and forgo the pump? This is for an R9 290x Lightning card.
> 
> Since I heard apparently I needed an 240mm radiator just for one card... which is impossible since I think that barely fits in my case and also the H240-x's are already sold out and the only h-220x I was going to get from amazon sold out (within a couple hours!) so I had to order from swiftech!! >__< Ordered the h220-x. Cost me about $171 something in total due to $31 something in shipping for usps priority mail... T__T.
> 
> Also suggestions on tubings, barbs, etc? And hello again by the way and happy new year!


Sorry if this has been asked before but are you trying to keep your H100i and add a Swiftech rad+pump combo? Or are you ditching the Corsair and switching to a Swiftech setup completely?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Erm I didn't now that was a thing haaa. So nope -- didn't now that! Thanks though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what would you suggest for an alternative for an radiator pump to the Swiftech 140mm radiator pump since that won't fit in my case? I'm looking for an 120mm. Would I need both an radiator and another pump along with an reservoir or just another radiator and a reservoir (which would help with leaking out the fluids I heard) and forgo the pump? This is for an R9 290x Lightning card.
> 
> Since I heard apparently I needed an 240mm radiator just for one card... which is impossible since I think that barely fits in my case and also the H240-x's are already sold out and the only h-220x I was going to get from amazon sold out (within a couple hours!) so I had to order from swiftech!! >__< Ordered the h220-x. Cost me about $171 something in total due to $31 something in shipping for usps priority mail... T__T.
> 
> Also suggestions on tubings, barbs, etc? And hello again by the way and happy new year!


Those are very hot running cards. I would highly suggest adding an additional 2 x 120mm fan radiator on top of the H220-X kit to cool it. You will also need either 3/8 barb fittings (2 fittings for each additional component) or 3/8 by 5/8 compression fittings. The tubing is also 3/8 by 5/8 and you should probably get about 6 feet of it, and you'll also need more coolant.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I'm not sure what size it is. Looks like the tip is 2.5mm across.


If you want long thin screw drivers for 5-10 dollars lowes or any auto body ace should have precision screw driver set. I got mine from microcenter because they had all different sizes and they work good and flex. I broke two but you get 8 of them


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mayhems X1 or Pastel coolants or any EK coolant (also made for them by Mayhems).
> 
> Are there any other coolants besides Mayhems that have an OCN club thread filled with members going on 10000 posts and the owner active on the thread answering questions and otherwise offering support? That was rhetorical of course.


Your right on that one. I used primochill my first go through and never again


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you want long thin screw drivers for 5-10 dollars lowes or any auto body ace should have precision screw driver set. I got mine from microcenter because they had all different sizes and they work good and flex. I broke two but you get 8 of them


what I got was the best thing they had at Lowes when I went. (hense the Huskey brand name) - I didn't really spend much time hunting. Figured I could "make it work"


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those are very hot running cards. I would highly suggest adding an additional 2 x 120mm fan radiator on top of the H220-X kit to cool it. You will also need either 3/8 barb fittings (2 fittings for each additional component) or 3/8 by 5/8 compression fittings. The tubing is also 3/8 by 5/8 and you should probably get about 6 feet of it, and you'll also need more coolant.


Tubing and coolant isn't a surprise, but do we really need an additional 240mm rad for an R9 290?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Tubing and coolant isn't a surprise, but do we really need an additional 240mm rad for an R9 290?


It depends on what temperatures you're trying to hit and what overclock you're trying to use them at. Those are rather hot running cards and I would at the very least want an additional 140mm fan radiator to assist with the added thermal load.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Tubing and coolant isn't a surprise, but do we really need an additional 240mm rad for an R9 290?


using only 120mm space for the CPU and GPU each is already cutting it close with temperatures. Deciding to do that with on average hotter components like the r9-290 is something you shouldn't do with 240mm radiator area between a cpu and gpu. Rough average its usually like 120mm space per parts + 120mm more, so at least 360mm area is recommended.. in most cases, cases are compatable with 2x240mm radiator space.


----------



## kevindd992002

@Dudewithbow

What can you think with my question here?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> using only 120mm space for the CPU and GPU each is already cutting it close with temperatures. Deciding to do that with on average hotter components like the r9-290 is something you shouldn't do with 240mm radiator area between a cpu and gpu. Rough average its usually like 120mm space per parts + 120mm more, so at least 360mm area is recommended.. in most cases, cases are compatable with 2x240mm radiator space.


Could you then hypothetically use a H220-X and H140-X together for a GPU/CPU build?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Dudewithbow
> 
> What can you think with my question here?


according to that cpu-z the pump isnt running at max(it maxes at 3k rpm). thoiugh temperatures seem possibly normal for a slightly warmer day. I bench with IBT AVX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Could you then hypothetically use a H220-X and H140-X together for a GPU/CPU build?


yes, but thats alot of pump redundancy to use both the 220x and 140x together. might as well buy one and buy a normal radiator for the other.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> yes, but thats alot of pump redundancy to use both the 220x and 140x together. might as well buy one and buy a normal radiator for the other.


So simply fit a 140mm radiator in the loop?

My kit so far is a i5-4670k @ 4.2GHz and an MSI 7990. What would be the best way to incorporate both of these into a single loop with a H220-X?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> according to that cpu-z the pump isnt running at max(it maxes at 3k rpm). thoiugh temperatures seem possibly normal for a slightly warmer day


But it does say 2986 RPM? The pump is AUXFANIN2 like I mentioned in the post


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> But it does say 2986 RPM? The pump is AUXFANIN2 like I mentioned in the post


yeah its up to 3000 mine hovers around the same as yours...I keep mine at full tilt all the time


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah its up to 3000 mine hovers around the same as yours...I keep mine at full tilt all the time


Yup. I'm wondering if my temps are normal with those pump and fan speeds.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> So simply fit a 140mm radiator in the loop?
> 
> My kit so far is a i5-4670k @ 4.2GHz and an MSI 7990. What would be the best way to incorporate both of these into a single loop with a H220-X?


I've worked with 7990s before. You're going to need more than a single 140mm radiator added to the loop. That is unless you're willing to deal with temperatures in the 80 degree Celsius range. For one of those cards I would almost recommend a 3 x 120mm fan radiator. They produce that much heat.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've worked with 7990s before. You're going to need more than a single 140mm radiator added to the loop. That is unless you're willing to deal with temperatures in the 80 degree Celsius range. For one of those cards I would almost recommend a 3 x 120mm fan radiator. They produce that much heat.


Currently under load I'm sitting on the 70c-75c area, and that's with stock fans. In order to fit 360mm of radiator space, I'd have to use a 120mm and a 240mm seperately (not including the H220X), which would involve removing case fans. Would that be enough?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> At least a 240 rad just for the card itself -- I doubt I can fit even one 240 in a phantom 410??? :O Plus the don't have any 240's left


Sorry, didn't notice you have a Phantom 410.

You definitely can have a H220x up top then. Then have a single 120 on the back + 120 on the front (removing the HDD cage, assuming you don't have it populated). It's a somewhat messy setup and one I wouldn't personally do, but that's your best course of action unless you are willing to mod your case to allow a 240 in the front.

The 290 is seriously hot and if you can't provide it at least a 240mm rad, then you are going to be running the card at the same 70-80c (or more) temps that you would already be doing with air cooling. There's no point in going water if that's the case, other than for looks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Could a H220X with additional water block cool a 2500k and R9 290 or is a second rad required?
> 
> The 240 rad provided would be intake.


As explained by others, you'd want a second 240 rad for the GPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Currently under load I'm sitting on the 70c-75c area, and that's with stock fans. In order to fit 360mm of radiator space, I'd have to use a 120mm and a 240mm seperately (not including the H220X), which would involve removing case fans. Would that be enough?


That should work. The 7990s are just very hot running cards. I built a system with two of them not too long ago and it also had an i7 4790k. It was cooled by a dual MCP655 and two MCR 420XP radiators. The temperatures on the 7990s were still hitting in the mid 60 degree Celsius range.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That should work. The 7990s are just very hot running cards. I built a system with two of them not too long ago and it also had an i7 4790k. It was cooled by a dual MCP655 and two MCR 420XP radiators. The temperatures on the 7990s were still hitting in the mid 60 degree Celsius range.


They make up for the heat with how stupidly powerful they are! I'll take a look at that config, I plan to add a second 7990 in at a future date.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before but are you trying to keep your H100i and add a Swiftech rad+pump combo? Or are you ditching the Corsair and switching to a Swiftech setup completely?


Oh ditching the H100i completely. I had ordered it on Newegg during Newegg's End of year sale but than rethought about it--currently have a H100--so I cancelled the ordered instead and ordered the Swiftech setup instead and am giving my brother my H100. Wanted to know if I need to another rad+pump for the 290x lightning card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those are very hot running cards. I would highly suggest adding an additional 2 x 120mm fan radiator on top of the H220-X kit to cool it. You will also need either 3/8 barb fittings (2 fittings for each additional component) or 3/8 by 5/8 compression fittings. The tubing is also 3/8 by 5/8 and you should probably get about 6 feet of it, and you'll also need more coolant.


Yeah they are they but I just have one 290x lightning and with msi r9 290x lightning you want me to get 2 120mm fan radiators?? :O I'm not so sure if that will fit in my system or not though :\. And with two more 120mm radiators wouldn't I need another pump along with reservoir? I have a phantom 410 case.

Thanks.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It depends on what temperatures you're trying to hit and what overclock you're trying to use them at. Those are rather hot running cards and I would at the very least want an additional 140mm fan radiator to assist with the added thermal load.


Yeah I was surprised you mentioned a 240mm just for a card... and I'd go with a 140mm but the problem is space I don't have room for a 140mm either. My only option is a 120mm :|.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> using only 120mm space for the CPU and GPU each is already cutting it close with temperatures. Deciding to do that with on average hotter components like the r9-290 is something you shouldn't do with 240mm radiator area between a cpu and gpu. Rough average its usually like 120mm space per parts + 120mm more, so at least 360mm area is recommended.. in most cases, cases are compatable with 2x240mm radiator space.


Well I got the h220x so that's 2x 120mm but only have space adequately left for a 120mm or else I'd go with a 140mm... so would a 120mm radiator for the card be sufficient or do I need to find some way to do a 2x 120mm combo (and when you do this do you combine the radiators together like fan+radiator+fan+radiator+fan) or can you separate them apart? I'm not sure if I can straight up do a combo but maybe separating them apart I might be able to...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Sorry, didn't notice you have a Phantom 410.
> 
> You definitely can have a H220x up top then. Then have a single 120 on the back + 120 on the front (removing the HDD cage, assuming you don't have it populated). It's a somewhat messy setup and one I wouldn't personally do, but that's your best course of action unless you are willing to mod your case to allow a 240 in the front.
> 
> The 290 is seriously hot and if you can't provide it at least a 240mm rad, then you are going to be running the card at the same 70-80c (or more) temps that you would already be doing with air cooling. There's no point in going water if that's the case, other than for looks.
> As explained by others, you'd want a second 240 rad for the GPU.


Yeah I can fit a H220x up on top--and possibly a H240x which is what I wanted but they're out of stock--oh that would work. How would I loop it all together though? And no I already have the HDD cage removed and with 2 more radiator fans don't I need to add another pump or reservoir? Don't have the necessary tools to mod the case to allow a 240 in the front haha.

That's crazy that with a waterloop it takes 2x 120mm vs. a kraken x31 only requiring the one 120mm :\. Would the 2x 120mm be lower in temps compared to the Kraken x31?
Yeah I said I could do the 120 in the back and 120 in the front but was wondering if I needed an extra pump for the flow.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh ditching the H100i completely. I had ordered it on Newegg during Newegg's End of year sale but than rethought about it--currently have a H100--so I cancelled the ordered instead and ordered the Swiftech setup instead and am giving my brother my H100. Wanted to know if I need to another rad+pump for the 290x lightning card.
> Yeah they are they but I just have one 290x lightning and with msi r9 290x lightning you want me to get 2 120mm fan radiators?? :O I'm not so sure if that will fit in my system or not though :\. And with two more 120mm radiators wouldn't I need another pump along with reservoir? I have a phantom 410 case.
> 
> Thanks.


If all you have room for is an additional 120mm fan radiator then I recommend adding it to your loop. You don't need to add another pump and reservoir though. The pump in this kit is strong enough to handle the added water block and radiator.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If all you have room for is an additional 120mm fan radiator then I recommend adding it to your loop. You don't need to add another pump and reservoir though. The pump in this kit is strong enough to handle the added water block and radiator.


yeah I have room for 2x 120mm radiators--one in the back and on in the front--though my question is with this setup will the temps be lower than the Kraken X31 or about the same if one 120mm is only going to be hitting 70-80 degrees? :O


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If all you have room for is an additional 120mm fan radiator then I recommend adding it to your loop. You don't need to add another pump and reservoir though. The pump in this kit is strong enough to handle the added water block and radiator.


recommened radiator by who?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> yeah I have room for 2x 120mm radiators--one in the back and on in the front--though my question is with this setup will the temps be lower than the Kraken X31 or about the same if one 120mm is only going to be hitting 70-80 degrees? :O


+/- temps can be dictated by mounts and slight variences in instalation. for reference, with my previous setup during the summer, my gpu(7970) loaded at like 60-65c in unigene valley(for reference, stock fan had the cards at 80-85c). Since ive gotten my pump back(new revision pump, the one with the sata off the pump), pushing valley with the same settings got me 40c(but in the winter). which leads me to say my previous mount wasn't as good.

Realistically, depending on which gpu block you had, it should be better than say a kraken as the blocks aren't designed as well as full on custom blocks, but some variances may or may not make them similar in performance.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> +/- temps can be dictated by mounts and slight variences in instalation. for reference, with my previous setup during the summer, my gpu(7970) loaded at like 60-65c in unigene valley(for reference, stock fan had the cards at 80-85c). Since ive gotten my pump back(new revision pump, the one with the sata off the pump), pushing valley with the same settings got me 40c(but in the winter). which leads me to say my previous mount wasn't as good.
> 
> Realistically, depending on which gpu block you had, it should be better than say a kraken as the blocks aren't designed as well as full on custom blocks, but some variances may or may not make them similar in performance.


Ah well the only full blocks are either the bitspower or the ek. And I'm not sure if I should go full cover or just go with the universal VGA block... :\. Since the universal vga block I could still use the included mosef heatsink that MSI bundles with along with the vram heatsinks (I had already gotten since I was going to do a Kraken G10 build) but now I'm torn between a full blown block or the EK universal. Are the temperature differences between the two extremely different? The problem with the full blown is price and adaptability. :\.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ah well the only full blocks are either the bitspower or the ek. And I'm not sure if I should go full cover or just go with the universal VGA block... :\. Since the universal vga block I could still use the included mosef heatsink that MSI bundles with along with the vram heatsinks (I had already gotten since I was going to do a Kraken G10 build) but now I'm torn between a full blown block or the EK universal. Are the temperature differences between the two extremely different? The problem with the full blown is price and adaptability. :\.


do note my temperatures are using a universal block, despite having a reference 7970 pcb i only have VRM cooling lax because how my case is oriented, the radiator fans cools the vrm


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> do note my temperatures are using a universal block, despite having a reference 7970 pcb i only have VRM cooling lax because how my case is oriented, the radiator fans cools the vrm


Oh so... how much better cooling would the full blocks be? :\


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh so... how much better cooling would the full blocks be? :\


the point of full blocks cooling is generally to help cool VRM as well. the cores will relatively stay in the same performance range(its basically dependent on how much $ they put into design, e.g cheap chinese blocks usually wont be as effective as name brand block), but you need both cool cores and cool vrm's in order for high end overclocking.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the point of full blocks cooling is generally to help cool VRM as well. the cores will relatively stay in the same performance range(its basically dependent on how much $ they put into design, e.g cheap chinese blocks usually wont be as effective as name brand block), but you need both cool cores and cool vrm's in order for high end overclocking.


Ah well I have the mosef heatsink and vrm/vram heatsinks so I guess I'll just go with the cheaper universal block option then. Do you possibly know if the Thermoshere will fit taller cards? I read in reviews it won't but on posts here in the EK Club some guy mentioned it would. :|

And Geggeg mentioned this to me: Thermosphere has ports on the front also. If you can get stop plugs in the other end that don't interfere with components below, shouldn't it be ok? I have no personal experience here so best to get confirmation about if this can even work.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ah well I have the mosef heatsink and vrm/vram heatsinks so I guess I'll just go with the cheaper universal block option then. Do you possibly know if the Thermoshere will fit taller cards? I read in reviews it won't but on posts here in the EK Club some guy mentioned it would. :|
> 
> And Geggeg mentioned this to me: Thermosphere has ports on the front also. If you can get stop plugs in the other end that don't interfere with components below, shouldn't it be ok? I have no personal experience here so best to get confirmation about if this can even work.


since the block is relatively newish and the # of people who uses universal blocks is pretty minimal, its hard to look for reviews. Not for certain, but for tall cards, it would make sense that one could plug up the g1/4 plugs that are facing the gpu core, and use the 2 g1/4 that are facing outwards, by using something like a 90 degree barb/compression fitting. The only unknown variable is if the thickness of the plug allows for such thing to happen for high height cards.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> since the block is relatively newish and the # of people who uses universal blocks is pretty minimal, its hard to look for reviews. Not for certain, but for tall cards, it would make sense that one could plug up the g1/4 plugs that are facing the gpu core, and use the 2 g1/4 that are facing outwards, by using something like a 90 degree barb/compression fitting. The only unknown variable is if the thickness of the plug allows for such thing to happen for high height cards.


Uhh... how would you say that so that it makes sense to me lol??? How would you plug up hte g1/4 plugs with what? And what do you mean the unkown variable is the thickness of the plug allowing for such things?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Uhh... how would you say that so that it makes sense to me lol??? How would you plug up hte g1/4 plugs with what? And what do you mean the unkown variable is the thickness of the plug allowing for such things?


say the block is horizontal oriented as pictured



logically there are 4 g1/4 plug holes at the end in theory you could potentially use the block regardless of gpu size because the 2 g1/4 holes on the other side facing away from the gpu core are open for use. The one problem is Variable X labeled, as the bottom 2 g1/4 holes must be plugged. but they can only be plugged if and only if their thickness is smaller than the part cooling the core, as if the plugs are too thick, the block cannot be mounted correctly on the core. This will only happen on wider gpus.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yeah I can fit a H220x up on top--and possibly a H240x which is what I wanted but they're out of stock--oh that would work. How would I loop it all together though? And no I already have the HDD cage removed and with 2 more radiator fans don't I need to add another pump or reservoir? Don't have the necessary tools to mod the case to allow a 240 in the front haha.
> 
> That's crazy that with a waterloop it takes 2x 120mm vs. a kraken x31 only requiring the one 120mm :\. Would the 2x 120mm be lower in temps compared to the Kraken x31?
> Yeah I said I could do the 120 in the back and 120 in the front but was wondering if I needed an extra pump for the flow.


The Kraken x31 isn't even a full water block and it may not even fit on your 290 in the first place since it's intended for CPU mounts.

What you would do is:

H220x > CPU block > Rear 120mm Rad > GPU Block > Front 120mm Rad > H220x

That's the ideal way.
Obviously it's going to cost quite a bit since you'll need at the very least 6 total extra fittings (be it barbs or compression), not counting the barbs on the H220x and the Apogee XL block. If you want to switch those barbs out, you'll of course need more.

I suggest you watch some tutorails on youtube on beginner's watercooling and also the guide here on OCN. Will give you a general idea.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> say the block is horizontal oriented as pictured
> 
> 
> 
> logically there are 4 g1/4 plug holes at the end in theory you could potentially use the block regardless of gpu size because the 2 g1/4 holes on the other side facing away from the gpu core are open for use. The one problem is Variable X labeled, as the bottom 2 g1/4 holes must be plugged. but they can only be plugged if and only if their thickness is smaller than the part cooling the core, as if the plugs are too thick, the block cannot be mounted correctly on the core. This will only happen on wider gpus.


Ok I get the first part but the second part is where I'm still albeit confused... If they can only be plugged depending on the thickness then shouldn't you just get the correct thickness and then it would plug up the holes--and assuming you got the correct plug thickness--the block would also be mounted correctly? Then is it just finding out which kind of plugs to get??


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> The Kraken x31 isn't even a full water block and it may not even fit on your 290 in the first place since it's intended for CPU mounts.
> 
> What you would do is:
> 
> H220x > CPU block > Rear 120mm Rad > GPU Block > Front 120mm Rad > H220x
> 
> That's the ideal way.
> Obviously it's going to cost quite a bit since you'll need at the very least 6 total extra fittings (be it barbs or compression), not counting the barbs on the H220x and the Apogee XL block. If you want to switch those barbs out, you'll of course need more.
> 
> I suggest you watch some tutorails on youtube on beginner's watercooling and also the guide here on OCN. Will give you a general idea.


Ahhh well the Kraken was able to be fitted with the G10 mount but yeah. Was just wondering.

Apparently if I take out the bottom HDD cage I can fit a 240mm radiator at the front... so how would I go about looping that then? And I'm going to assume the 240mm would be used for the card since it produces more heat than the cpu. Also I just hope the rivets aren't that hard to take off, possibly know what tools are needed to take them off?

With just one more radiator would it require 2 less fittings? And I wanted to add an extra reservoir how many fittings would that need?

There's a guide here on OCN? :O


----------



## kevindd992002

@Dudewithbow

If my pump RPM is 3K as stated in my screenshot, does that make the temps normal?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ahhh well the Kraken was able to be fitted with the G10 mount but yeah. Was just wondering.
> 
> Apparently if I take out the bottom HDD cage I can fit a 240mm radiator at the front... so how would I go about looping that then? And I'm going to assume the 240mm would be used for the card since it produces more heat than the cpu. Also I just hope the rivets aren't that hard to take off, possibly know what tools are needed to take them off?
> 
> With just one more radiator would it require 2 less fittings? And I wanted to add an extra reservoir how many fittings would that need?
> 
> There's a guide here on OCN? :O


If you can remove the bottom HDD cage and can mount a 240 rad upfront, then you basically just go from the GPU to the front rad and then back to the H220x, simple.

No, heat travels to however many rads there are in a system. It's not an exclusive thing unless you set it up to be. Which means pump, rad, res for the GPU alone then H220x for the CPU alone, but that would make everything complicated and above all redundant. The water is traveling so fast in the loop anyways, so as long as you have the surface area then that's all that matters, mostly.

A general rule of thumb is 1 component = 2 fittings. You can add more obviously (in some scenarios, you probably have to, all depends on your loop setup), like doing bends or adding quick disconects or whatever else. That's up to you to decide. This is why I say go check out watercooling guides and see builds from other users, you'll learn a lot just through that.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Dudewithbow
> 
> If my pump RPM is 3K as stated in my screenshot, does that make the temps normal?


still normalish, there's a point where pump speed gives diminishing returns to performance. its needed when the loop is really complex or flow restrictive. If mannually moving the pump say within 50% to 100% recieves similar results ±a few degrees, its normal. take Martins old h220 bench for example. with 30% fans fixed, his pump from 30% to 100% only gave him 1 degree difference.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> If you can remove the bottom HDD cage and can mount a 240 rad upfront, then you basically just go from the GPU to the front rad and then back to the H220x, simple.
> 
> No, heat travels to however many rads there are in a system. It's not an exclusive thing unless you set it up to be. Which means pump, rad, res for the GPU alone then H220x for the CPU alone, but that would make everything complicated and above all redundant. The water is traveling so fast in the loop anyways, so as long as you have the surface area then that's all that matters, mostly.
> 
> A general rule of thumb is 1 component = 2 fittings. You can add more obviously (in some scenarios, you probably have to, all depends on your loop setup), like doing bends or adding quick disconects or whatever else. That's up to you to decide. This is why I say go check out watercooling guides and see builds from other users, you'll learn a lot just through that.


Oh. Is the G1/4 adapter needed by the way if I want to use a different tubing (I'm kinda confused about it) since I had wanted to replace the tubing on it. Oh I guess I might as well have 3 rads than 240 up front and another 120 in the back since the more rads you have the better anyways. I'm checking out the watercooling guide right now but there isn't much aside from stuff I do know--which is why I'm asking questions for the ones I don't-and have seen some build logs from other users. :| I tend to learn more attaining answering from asking.

Right now I'm on the watercooling 2013 and watercooling for beginners guide. They both are a little bit different.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> still normalish, there's a point where pump speed gives diminishing returns to performance. its needed when the loop is really complex or flow restrictive. If mannually moving the pump say within 50% to 100% recieves similar results ±a few degrees, its normal. take Martins old h220 bench for example. with 30% fans fixed, his pump from 30% to 100% only gave him 1 degree difference.


Gotcha. Thanks! So then I don't have to worry about incorrect waterblock seating. Just making sure.

With watercooling though, why would the internal case temps not matter when you set the rad to be an intake (dumping hot air inside the case)? Wouldn't the temperature of the waterblock itself be affected negatively if the internal case temps are hot?


----------



## mistax

Spend 45 minute trying to take off the screws to the backplate. First two came instantly other 2 still won't come off with a plier holding down the screw base and at this point the screws are stripped. Anyone have any idea how to get them off? They were screwed in pretty deep when I opened up the packaging


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Spend 45 minute trying to take off the screws to the backplate. First two came instantly other 2 still won't come off with a plier holding down the screw base and at this point the screws are stripped. Anyone have any idea how to get them off? They were screwed in pretty deep when I opened up the packaging


you have to use the proper size screwdriver and inset the nuts into the backplate so they won't turn but if you've totally stripped them you're about to have a time


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you have to use the proper size screwdriver and inset the nuts into the backplate so they won't turn but if you've totally stripped them you're about to have a time


Yeah I'm about to dremel a new incision into the screw to remove them.


----------



## Swuell

How many gallons/liters does the h220-x hold by the way?


----------



## ZC4065

Quick question, I plan to mount the H220-X under the radiator slot at the top of my 500r, and put the fans into the slot. This requires longer screws to go through the fans into the radiator. Do these screws come included with the H220-X?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> How many gallons/liters does the h220-x hold by the way?


~245 mL. You should really check my review


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> How many gallons/liters does the h220-x hold by the way?


my H220-X Extra 280 rad and 100 ml res holds about 45-50 ounces.... fully topped..
edit:wow that's a lot less than I would've thought







ninja'd me


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Quick question, I plan to mount the H220-X under the radiator slot at the top of my 500r, and put the fans into the slot. This requires longer screws to go through the fans into the radiator. Do these screws come included with the H220-X?


it does its designed to be mounted with screws through the fans and into the rad


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Quick question, I plan to mount the H220-X under the radiator slot at the top of my 500r, and put the fans into the slot. This requires longer screws to go through the fans into the radiator. Do these screws come included with the H220-X?


Yes, there are 8 longer screws included in the H220X kit that supports your fan installation method.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Has anyone throw an extra 140mm fan on the 240x to the left of the pump housing to see if it helps in any way?


----------



## mistax

Just installed my h220x, the fan configuration currently exhaust hot air from my case. I assume i have to do some reseating?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Has anyone throw an extra 140mm fan on the 240x to the left of the pump housing to see if it helps in any way?


I don't have space on mine... A fan on the bottom wouldn't clear the motherboard.

Speaking of capacity... My loop with h240-x 2x gpu full blocks and additional 240rad took about .7 liters including misc. minor spills while filling. So if anyone is looking to buy coolant or coolant concentrate 1L should be good for most 2x radiator 2-3x waterblock builds.


----------



## mistax

i now idle between 35-38C after reseating.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> ~245 mL. You should really check my review


Where is it!!?? I want to but don't know where?! Link? Thank you by the way! I must of calculated it wrong then.. because I ended up getting 1.8 something litres and about 2.3 or something along those lines with the added mini reservoir 2.

EDIT: oh I just now saw it... it's linked in your siggy lol... oops.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> my H220-X Extra 280 rad and 100 ml res holds about 45-50 ounces.... fully topped..
> edit:wow that's a lot less than I would've thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ninja'd me


XD ounces-liters-gallons oh man. Math haha. Oh wow--about 1.33-1.47--not bad then! I'm surprised I even calculated my math about right... lol.

That was calculating the h220x rad with an swiftech mini rev. 2 res haha.

So when I have two reservoirs I would also fully fill the second--mini rev. 2--reservoir correct?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh. Is the G1/4 adapter needed by the way if I want to use a different tubing (I'm kinda confused about it) since I had wanted to replace the tubing on it. Oh I guess I might as well have 3 rads than 240 up front and another 120 in the back since the more rads you have the better anyways. I'm checking out the watercooling guide right now but there isn't much aside from stuff I do know--which is why I'm asking questions for the ones I don't-and have seen some build logs from other users. :| I tend to learn more attaining answering from asking.
> 
> Right now I'm on the watercooling 2013 and watercooling for beginners guide. They both are a little bit different.


If you want to replace the fitting on the outlet, then yes the G1/4 adapter is needed. If you want to use original barbs, then no. Just get the correct tube size (3/8 OD).


----------



## mistax

hmm look like avg teamp for 4790k is 27-28idle and im sitting at 35-38. After reseating.


----------



## bvsbutthd101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> hmm look like avg teamp for 4790k is 27-28idle and im sitting at 35-38. After reseating.


Pardon me for not reading any previous post but I'll give you my input







I have a 4790k as well overclocked to 4.6 ghz @ 1.32v (I know, a bad OC'ing chip). Anyways, my cpu doesn't downclock at idle so it's constantly running at 4.6 ghz and it idles around 27-32c. Idles even lower if I let it downclock but that always cause instability for me for some reason so I disabled "Intel Speedstep".

Not sure if you mentioned this previously in the thread but where in your case do you have the rad mounted and are the fans intaking fresh air or exhausting? I see we have the same case, I have mine mounted in the top of the case with the fans exhausting. I also have the side 200mm fan exhausting air so the heat from the graphics card has less of a chance of reaching the rad.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Where is it!!?? I want to but don't know where?! Link? Thank you by the way! I must of calculated it wrong then.. because I ended up getting 1.8 something litres and about 2.3 or something along those lines with the added mini reservoir 2.
> 
> EDIT: oh I just now saw it... it's linked in your siggy lol... oops.


No worries, glad you found it. It needs to be updated a bit since I have tested it out on x99 also.


----------



## Archngamin

Anyone know if the H240x fits in the Phanteks Evlov?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archngamin*
> 
> Anyone know if the H240x fits in the Phanteks Evlov?


I looked around, it doesn't seem to. I'm not finding it in a list of supported cases.


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bvsbutthd101*
> 
> Pardon me for not reading any previous post but I'll give you my input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4790k as well overclocked to 4.6 ghz @ 1.32v (I know, a bad OC'ing chip). Anyways, my cpu doesn't downclock at idle so it's constantly running at 4.6 ghz and it idles around 27-32c. Idles even lower if I let it downclock but that always cause instability for me for some reason so I disabled "Intel Speedstep".
> 
> Not sure if you mentioned this previously in the thread but where in your case do you have the rad mounted and are the fans intaking fresh air or exhausting? I see we have the same case, I have mine mounted in the top of the case with the fans exhausting. I also have the side 200mm fan exhausting air so the heat from the graphics card has less of a chance of reaching the rad.


i have the fans exhausting out the top. i have 4x noctua f12 on the side panel bringing in air along with a gentle typhon 2150 from the bottom


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No worries, glad you found it. It needs to be updated a bit since I have tested it out on x99 also.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> i have the fans exhausting out the top. i have 4x noctua f12 on the side panel bringing in air along with a gentle typhon 2150 from the bottom


Any other exhaust? Because that's some serious negative air pressure going on in your case. Couple that with the 290x, all the hot air is being pushed through to the rads.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> If you want long thin screw drivers for 5-10 dollars lowes or any auto body ace should have precision screw driver set. I got mine from microcenter because they had all different sizes and they work good and flex. I broke two but you get 8 of them


Good advice, I'll try Microcenter...


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Any other exhaust? Because that's some serious negative air pressure going on in your case. Couple that with the 290x, all the hot air is being pushed through to the rads.


just the 2 helix on top of the radiator and another gentle typhoon 2150 as rear exhaust.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Any other exhaust? Because that's some serious negative air pressure going on in your case. Couple that with the 290x, all the hot air is being pushed through to the rads.


yeah... through one EXHAUST :O.


----------



## Archngamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> I looked around, it doesn't seem to. I'm not finding it in a list of supported cases.


I appreciate it. It didn't work on PC part picker either but I wanted to confirm because it seems like it would.


----------



## Swuell

Does anybody know if I should use my Gelid GC Extreme or the Tim-Mate 2 that comes with the kit? :|


----------



## Drywaffles

Hello i have a Glacer 240L and having some problems with it. When i first booted up my computer my pump became insanely loud and when i checked the RPM of the pump it is sitting at 4.4K RPMs. I have no idea what caused it to increase by 1K RPM but it is INSANELY LOUD AND UNBEARABLE. My system specs are below please let me know how i can manage the pump speed/voltage.

System Spec

OS: Windows 8.1 64 bit

BIOS: Version 2.10.1208.

MOBO: Asus Maximus VI Hero

CPU: Intel i7 4770K

RAM: 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X series

GPU: Asus Direct CUII OC GTX 780

PSU: Corsair AX760W

HDD: Kingston Hyper X 120gb

1TB Mechanical Drive


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archngamin*
> 
> Anyone know if the H240x fits in the Phanteks Evlov?


Being that the Evolv can house up to a dual 140mm fan radiator in the top of it, and it has plenty of room for motherboard clearance due to the offset fan spacing, I don't see why our H240-X wouldn't fit in that case.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> hmm look like avg teamp for 4790k is 27-28idle and im sitting at 35-38. After reseating.


What are your ambient temps? My 3570K idles at ~40°c in 34°C ambient temp.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Being that the Evolv can house up to a dual 140mm fan radiator in the top of it, and it has plenty of room for motherboard clearance due to the offset fan spacing, I don't see why our H240-X wouldn't fit in that case.


Yeah. Go with that. He would know.


----------



## Topspin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Being that the Evolv can house up to a dual 140mm fan radiator in the top of it, and it has plenty of room for motherboard clearance due to the offset fan spacing, I don't see why our H240-X wouldn't fit in that case.


When will the H240-X be back in stock at Swiftech?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topspin*
> 
> When will the H240-X be back in stock at Swiftech?


Excellent question. I did find one here but I have never dealt with this company before.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Gotcha. Thanks! So then I don't have to worry about incorrect waterblock seating. Just making sure.
> 
> With watercooling though, why would the internal case temps not matter when you set the rad to be an intake (dumping hot air inside the case)? Wouldn't the temperature of the waterblock itself be affected negatively if the internal case temps are hot?


Bump on my question here.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Bump on my question here.


if your internals are affected that much by a rad as intake chances are good you have bad airflow to start with or not enough airflow...if you have your rad as intake you need to have decent exhaust or a lot of airflow...my case and current airflow setup lends lower temps to the rads as exhaust rather than intake although the difference is one to two degrees on cpu and 4 to 5 on gpu both higher with both of my rads as intake...


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Bump on my question here.


No, the temp of the waterblock would really not be affected. The waterblock is being cooled by the liquid moving through it.

Personally, I prefer to eject air from the case simply because I dont water cool my GPU and I dont like putting warm air into it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if your internals are affected that much by a rad as intake chances are good you have bad airflow to start with or not enough airflow...if you have your rad as intake you need to have decent exhaust or a lot of airflow...my case and current airflow setup lends lower temps to the rads as exhaust rather than intake although the difference is one to two degrees on cpu and 4 to 5 on gpu both higher with both of my rads as intake...


My case airflow is good. I was just asking if the waterblock will be affected in any way but I haven't tested exhaust for the 240mm rad yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> No, the temp of the waterblock would really not be affected. The waterblock is being cooled by the liquid moving through it.
> 
> Personally, I prefer to eject air from the case simply because I dont water cool my GPU and I dont like putting warm air into it.


Thanks. One of my GPU's have its own AIO cooler and the other is air-cooled by an AC Xtreme III third-party cooler so I would say that's enough but then again, like I said above, I haven't tested the other orientation.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> My case airflow is good. I was just asking if the waterblock will be affected in any way but I haven't tested exhaust for the 240mm rad yet.
> Thanks. One of my GPU's have its own AIO cooler and the other is air-cooled by an AC Xtreme III third-party cooler so I would say that's enough but then again, like I said above, I haven't tested the other orientation.


Many tests have been run and the difference between push and pull is extremely small if it's noticeable at all. Like I say, the only reason I changed my fan orientation is because I don't like pushing hotter air in.


----------



## ironhide138

so how visible is the H220x's pump? it looks like it hangs like an inch below the res. i assume its impossible to put fans on the bottom of the rad?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Many tests have been run and the difference between push and pull is extremely small if it's noticeable at all. Like I say, the only reason I changed my fan orientation is because I don't like pushing hotter air in.


Ok. Well, I'm not sure about my setup but right now it's setup like this:

1.) 240mm rad in top set as intake
2.) GPU1 AIO water-cooled with 120mm rad in rear set as exhaust
3.) GPU2 air-cooled with AC Xtreme III
4.) 140mm fan in 5.25" bay set as intake
5.) 140mm fan hanging in middle of case where HDD bays are set to push air from right to left
6.) 140mm fan in bottom set as intake
7.) 200mm side panel fan set as intake

So I definitely have enough intake but I'm not sure if making the swiftech rad as exhaust would do me any good?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Well, I'm not sure about my setup but right now it's setup like this:
> 
> 1.) 240mm rad in top set as intake
> 2.) GPU1 AIO water-cooled with 120mm rad in rear set as exhaust
> 3.) GPU2 air-cooled with AC Xtreme III
> 4.) 140mm fan in 5.25" bay set as intake
> 5.) 140mm fan hanging in middle of case where HDD bays are set to push air from right to left
> 6.) 140mm fan in bottom set as intake
> 7.) 200mm side panel fan set as intake
> 
> So I definitely have enough intake but I'm not sure if making the swiftech rad as exhaust would do me any good?


I really don't think so.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> so how visible is the H220x's pump? it looks like it hangs like an inch below the res. i assume its impossible to put fans on the bottom of the rad?


Only one extra fan will fit under the radiator.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> so how visible is the H220x's pump? it looks like it hangs like an inch below the res. i assume its impossible to put fans on the bottom of the rad?


Depending on how large your case window is, and where you mount the radiator, you may or may not see it. In my H440, with the radiator mounted in the top, it is visible (including the "do not tamper" sticker, though I'm going to be expanding the loop anyway so I'm not too worried about that).


----------



## ironhide138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Depending on how large your case window is, and where you mount the radiator, you may or may not see it. In my H440, with the radiator mounted in the top, it is visible (including the "do not tamper" sticker, though I'm going to be expanding the loop anyway so I'm not too worried about that).


ooooh, can you take a pic...or 10? Im getting an h440 exactly for this cooler


----------



## wes1099

I am so close to having the money to buy an H220-X and I can't wait! Is anyone here running an H220-X on a delidded haswell chip?


----------



## GTone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Does anybody know if I should use my Gelid GC Extreme or the Tim-Mate 2 that comes with the kit? :|


I don't know, I did the same thing(recently bought some GC Extreme) in anticipation of my install. I'm going to use it.

Tracking shows my 220-x is in town and will be at my door tomorrow some time.








Take me a couple days likely to swap all my stuff into the new case. The fans are going to be flipped first thing as intaking hot air is not desirable for me(GPUs are still on air).


----------



## mistax

i did some more ibt/prime 95 and my cpu keep sitting @ 90c during full load. I'm seeing most people with full load @ the mid 60s. Do i have to delid my cpu?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> i did some more ibt/prime 95 and my cpu keep sitting @ 90c during full load. I'm seeing most people with full load @ the mid 60s. Do i have to delid my cpu?


you should only realistically have the need to delid if your CPU is Ivy Bridge generation or newer due to intel manufacturing changes. if it isnt them, its either the seating of the cooler, or there is way to much voltage being put on the chip


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you should only realistically have the need to delid if your CPU is Ivy Bridge generation or newer due to intel manufacturing changes. if it isnt them, its either the seating of the cooler, or there is way to much voltage being put on the chip


oh my signature isn't updated i have a 4790k.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you should only realistically have the need to delid if your CPU is Ivy Bridge generation or newer due to intel manufacturing changes. if it isnt them, its either the seating of the cooler, or there is way to much voltage being put on the chip


or to much/too little tim


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Well, I'm not sure about my setup but right now it's setup like this:
> 
> 1.) 240mm rad in top set as intake
> 2.) GPU1 AIO water-cooled with 120mm rad in rear set as exhaust
> 3.) GPU2 air-cooled with AC Xtreme III
> 4.) 140mm fan in 5.25" bay set as intake
> 5.) 140mm fan hanging in middle of case where HDD bays are set to push air from right to left
> 6.) 140mm fan in bottom set as intake
> 7.) 200mm side panel fan set as intake
> 
> So I definitely have enough intake but I'm not sure if making the swiftech rad as exhaust would do me any good?


You do not have good airflow. Too much negative air pressure, not enough exhaust.
Rule of thumb: what comes in must go out, just like eating.

More air blowing into the casing does not mean lower temps, all you are doing is just bottlenecking all the hot air in a closed area and it's not being exhausted quickly enough. The air in the case will eventually just get warm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> You do not have good airflow. Too much negative air pressure, not enough exhaust.
> Rule of thumb: what comes in must go out, just like eating.
> 
> More air blowing into the casing does not mean lower temps, all you are doing is just bottlenecking all the hot air in a closed area and it's not being exhausted quickly enough. The air in the case will eventually just get warm.


Not sure where you are getting this from, but it's just not true.

"_negative air pressure_" in a case means more fan airflow as exhaust than intake. When that happens then every unfiltered opening in the case becomes a place where dust can and will be sucked in.

'Positive air pressure', on the other hand, is achieved by having more fan airflow as intake than exhaust, and it's a benefit for dust control as long as all of your intakes are filtered. You have to keep in mind that filters can obstruct airflow by 50% or more, as can a rad, so 3 or more fans as a filtered intake through a rad of the same type speed as one fan as unfiltered exhaust may not yield positive pressure. It would be close and depend on what type of fans, filters, and rad. The take away is that you need more filtered fannage as intake than as exhaust to achieve positive pressure for dust control, and if the filtered intakes are also going through a rad then you need a lot more filtered intakes than exhaust. 4 to 1 or more is a good ratio.

Also, rads are more efficient when the air being forced through them is cooler, so in general watercooling tends to work better when internal mounted rads are intaking cooler ambient air from outside the case into them rather then exhausting slightly warmer case air out through them. If your CPU and GPU(s) are watercooled then the slightly warmer interior air from having rads as intake has a negligible performance impact on other components (mobo, ram, etc) compared to the performance gains to be had by lower CPU & GPU temps by having rads as intake. I don't buy the "bottlenecking all the hot air"argument at all for one, and when your CPU & GPUs are watercooled it wouldn't matter if it was true, but it just isn't. Airflow is airflow whichever direction it's flowing in.

A very common recommendation in watercooling forums is if both your CPU and GPUs are watercooled then it's generally best to have all your rads as filtered intake and only the rear case fan as exhaust. This works very well for both better loop temps and better dust control especially in cases that have open unfiltered mesh areas as is common especially on the back or bottom of the case where all that intaking positive case pressure air will escape pushing filtered air out of every unfiltered opening instead of sucking dusty air in which can have a negative impact on cooling performance and even lead to component failure if left unchecked.

However, if your CPU is watercooled but your GPU(s) is/are aircooled, then it gets more complicated. Having your rad as intake will raise interior case temps slightly which can have a detrimental impact on GPU temps with regards to performance / overclocking ability, but having a rad as exhaust, especially with a blower-style GPU, makes it harder to have positive pressure, and if you don't have a blower-style card then they tend to blow a lot of their heat around inside the case instead of out of it which in turn will negatively affect the CPU's temps if it's rad is exhausting. In other words, there's no easy answer which way is better if you have a watercooled cpu but air cooled GPU(s). It very much tends to be build-specific. You should try it either way and see which works best for you.

*Edit:* See here:

_*What is positive air pressure?*
How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?_
http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en


----------



## ironhide138

yeah... no.... negative are pressure is a good thing. keeps dust out too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> yeah... no.... negative are pressure is a good thing. keeps dust out too.


No, negative air pressure means every unfiltered opening in the case will be sucking in unfiltered (dusty) air.

Again:

_*What is positive air pressure?*
How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?_
http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en

edit:

lol, The TH10A build I'm currently working on has four 480 rads and two 280 240 rads, all with fans in push pull (40 fans in all) all as filtered intakes, and just the one single fan in the back as exhaust. The CPU, GPUs, Mobo, and memory will be watercooled, and there's plenty of unfiltered grills on the back and right side panel for all that intaking filtered air to escape.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> yeah... no.... negative are pressure is a good thing. keeps dust out too.


@Unic0rnhunter is correct. Positive pressure is ideal for keeping dust out. Also, computer cases aren't designed to be airtight, so anywhere that hot air can excape, it will do so. I've tested this on my own Switch 810 case and can attest to the fact this is true.


----------



## mistax

My setup is i7 4790k stock turbo 4.4 h220x on top with fan as exhaust(maybe this is why)?
My front is a bitfenix spectrepro 230 as intake
My side Panal are 4x noctua f12 as intake
The bottom holds a gentle typhoon 2150 as intake
The rear has a gentle typhoon 2150 as exhaust

All intake have a demcifiltet on them case is haf 932.

The first install I had the spacer on the wrong side so the block couldn't be as close so I fixed that and changed the Tim to diamond ic. That drop my idle from 40-42 to 35-38, but still not within the review range of 28-34


----------



## Swuell

Would the pump be ok for the aqualis or would a second pump be needed and how do you know what flow meter to get? As in how many ml/hr it drops?? :\ That's dictated by the pump correct?


----------



## ironhide138

uhhbaaaduuhhh thats the one I meant ahah


----------



## Swuell

Specifically I was wondering which aquacomputer mps flowmeter to get: the mps 100 or the mps 200? Thoughts anyone? And would this pump be good enough for the aqualis 450ml with base for the waterfall effect?


----------



## Swuell

Is it also possible to upgrade the H220-x rads without losing warranty and if it's possible and you do upgrade the rads is the included reservoir transferable?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure where you are getting this from, but it's just not true.
> 
> "_negative air pressure_" in a case means more fan airflow as exhaust than intake. When that happens then every unfiltered opening in the case becomes a place where dust can and will be sucked in.
> 
> 'Positive air pressure', on the other hand, is achieved by having more fan airflow as intake than exhaust, and it's a benefit for dust control as long as all of your intakes are filtered. You have to keep in mind that filters can obstruct airflow by 50% or more, as can a rad, so 3 or more fans as a filtered intake through a rad of the same type speed as one fan as unfiltered exhaust may not yield positive pressure. It would be close and depend on what type of fans, filters, and rad. The take away is that you need more filtered fannage as intake than as exhaust to achieve positive pressure for dust control, and if the filtered intakes are also going through a rad then you need a lot more filtered intakes than exhaust. 4 to 1 or more is a good ratio.
> 
> Also, rads are more efficient when the air being forced through them is cooler, so in general watercooling tends to work better when internal mounted rads are intaking cooler ambient air from outside the case into them rather then exhausting slightly warmer case air out through them. If your CPU and GPU(s) are watercooled then the slightly warmer interior air from having rads as intake has a negligible performance impact on other components (mobo, ram, etc) compared to the performance gains to be had by lower CPU & GPU temps by having rads as intake. I don't buy the "bottlenecking all the hot air"argument at all for one, and when your CPU & GPUs are watercooled it wouldn't matter if it was true, but it just isn't. Airflow is airflow whichever direction it's flowing in.
> 
> A very common recommendation in watercooling forums is if both your CPU and GPUs are watercooled then it's generally best to have all your rads as filtered intake and only the rear case fan as exhaust. This works very well for both better loop temps and better dust control especially in cases that have open unfiltered mesh areas as is common especially on the back or bottom of the case where all that intaking positive case pressure air will escape pushing filtered air out of every unfiltered opening instead of sucking dusty air in which can have a negative impact on cooling performance and even lead to component failure if left unchecked.
> 
> However, if your CPU is watercooled but your GPU(s) is/are aircooled, then it gets more complicated. Having your rad as intake will raise interior case temps slightly which can have a detrimental impact on GPU temps with regards to performance / overclocking ability, but having a rad as exhaust, especially with a blower-style GPU, makes it harder to have positive pressure, and if you don't have a blower-style card then they tend to blow a lot of their heat around inside the case instead of out of it which in turn will negatively affect the CPU's temps if it's rad is exhausting. In other words, there's no easy answer which way is better if you have a watercooled cpu but air cooled GPU(s). It very much tends to be build-specific. You should try it either way and see which works best for you.
> 
> *Edit:* See here:
> 
> _*What is positive air pressure?*
> How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?_
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en


Thanks, that's exactly what I now. What do you think of my setup here:

1.) 240mm rad in top set as intake
2.) GPU1 AIO water-cooled with 120mm rad in rear set as exhaust
3.) GPU2 air-cooled with AC Xtreme III
4.) 140mm fan in 5.25" bay set as intake
5.) 140mm fan hanging in middle of case where HDD bays are set to push air from right to left
6.) 140mm fan in bottom set as intake
7.) 200mm side panel fan set as intake

All intakes have either a mesh or a demciflex filter on them, so they're good. The PCI slot pillars have been cut also so that air flow out of the case won't be obstructed in any way.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Is it also possible to upgrade the H220-x rads without losing warranty and if it's possible and you do upgrade the rads is the included reservoir transferable?


No, you can not upgrade the radiator of the main unit. The reservoir and pump housing (aka pump top) are built into / onto the radiator. What you can do is add an additional radiator or two, depending on what you are doing with the loop.


----------



## ironhide138

does the h220 work on its side? like in the front of a case?


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> My setup is i7 4790k stock turbo 4.4 h220x on top with fan as exhaust(maybe this is why)?
> My front is a bitfenix spectrepro 230 as intake
> My side Panal are 4x noctua f12 as intake
> The bottom holds a gentle typhoon 2150 as intake
> The rear has a gentle typhoon 2150 as exhaust
> 
> All intake have a demcifiltet on them case is haf 932.
> 
> The first install I had the spacer on the wrong side so the block couldn't be as close so I fixed that and changed the Tim to diamond ic. That drop my idle from 40-42 to 35-38, but still not within the review range of 28-34


i switched to aida/ibt/ and prime 95 blend test and the cpu hover around 65ish on load, but using the small test on prime 95 it would hit 100c?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you should only realistically have the need to delid if your CPU is Ivy Bridge generation or newer due to intel manufacturing changes. if it isnt them, its either the seating of the cooler, or there is way to much voltage being put on the chip


Is that a necessity for Ivy bridge... >__>


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> No, you can not upgrade the radiator of the main unit. The reservoir and pump housing (aka pump top) are built into / onto the radiator. What you can do is add an additional radiator or two, depending on what you are doing with the loop.


Ah ok added radiators already! Thanks!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> does the h220 work on its side? like in the front of a case?


the original h220 works in every orientation, but do note some orientations require more maintenance if a reservoir is not catching air bubbles.

the newer h##0x units can work in any orientation except when at the bottom in a way where the pump is higher than the rad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Is that a necessity for Ivy bridge... >__>


not 100% necessary, but necessary for those who want to push their chip harder. if a mild overclock is your think(e.g 4-4.3ghz) its not really necessary. theres just a turning point where at a certain voltage, temperatures will suddenly skyrocket because the TIM inside the IHS cannot displace the heat fast enough to the IHS for the cooler to cool off.


----------



## ironhide138

sorry, was asking about the 220x. so if its in the front of the case, theres no problem as long as the pumps in the bottom? nice.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> sorry, was asking about the 220x. so if its in the front of the case, theres no problem as long as the pumps in the bottom? nice.


front with the pump on top or bottom is okay, whats NOT okay is if placed at the bottom of the case where rad is attached to case, and the pump is above it as shown on the site










I also believe side mounts are fine as well, in either orientation


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the original h220 works in every orientation, but do note some orientations require more maintenance if a reservoir is not catching air bubbles.
> 
> the newer h##0x units can work in any orientation except when at the bottom in a way where the pump is higher than the rad
> not 100% necessary, but necessary for those who want to push their chip harder. if a mild overclock is your think(e.g 4-4.3ghz) its not really necessary. theres just a turning point where at a certain voltage, temperatures will suddenly skyrocket because the TIM inside the IHS cannot displace the heat fast enough to the IHS for the cooler to cool off.


So then basically if I want to get the best overclock I HAVE to delid..? -__-

Also know if the pump is good enough for 2 rads + an Aqualis with base for the waterfall effect, 450ml reservoir to be exact?

EDIT: To be more exact should I add another pump if I'm looking to add this to an cpu, MSI R9 290X Lightning card, an nvidia (I think it's Evga) Evga 8800gt 512mb card, and an aqualis 450ml or would this be enough? Since I heard that the pump itself can only truly handle about 2 blocks? :\


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So then basically if I want to get the best overclock I HAVE to delid..? -__-


If you want the best overclock, yes you would have to delid.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you want the best overclock, yes you would have to delid.


oh maan... Is it hard? lol. And there goes my warranty...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So then basically if I want to get the best overclock I HAVE to delid..? -__-
> 
> Also know if the pump is good enough for 2 rads + an Aqualis with base for the waterfall effect, 450ml reservoir to be exact?
> 
> EDIT: To be more exact should I add another pump if I'm looking to add this to an cpu, MSI R9 290X Lightning card, an nvidia (I think it's Evga) Evga 8800gt 512mb card, and an aqualis 450ml or would this be enough? Since I heard that the pump itself can only truly handle about 2 blocks? :\


not true can handle two more rads and two gpu blocks possibly more


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> i switched to aida/ibt/ and prime 95 blend test and the cpu hover around 65ish on load, but using the small test on prime 95 it would hit 100c?


update! swap from default cpu core voltage from 1.23-25ish to 1.15 and my temperature droppeeeeeeeeeeeeeed. IBT and other bench now hover around 58-60ish and sometime spikes to 70. This makes me wonder if i got an awful cpu that requires delid.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> not true can handle two more rads and two gpu blocks possibly more


Soo... what would you recommend then? And are you saying two more rads then what I'm already adding for a total of 5? Or just 3 in total? And 2 gpu blocks possibly? If possibly 2 gpu blocks what should I do if I am adding 2 gpu blocks...? Add another pump?

EDIT: Also wasn't there talk of being able to upgrade the pump as an option without voiding warranty?


----------



## IHach418

Could someone please tell me what the limited three year warranty on the H240X covers? Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Soo... what would you recommend then? And are you saying two more rads then what I'm already adding for a total of 5? Or just 3 in total? And 2 gpu blocks possibly? If possibly 2 gpu blocks what should I do if I am adding 2 gpu blocks...? Add another pump?
> 
> EDIT: Also wasn't there talk of being able to upgrade the pump as an option without voiding warranty?


Two more rads and two more water blocks on top of the original kit. That's about when you'll hit the wall on what the pump is capable of. Unfortunately if you do upgrade the pump to the MCP50X you will void your warranty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IHach418*
> 
> Could someone please tell me what the limited three year warranty on the H240X covers? Thanks.


What it covers is normal use in the original configuration and expansion. Both though are limited to user error of any kind. In other words if you aren't careful with installation and manage to puncture your radiator, crack your reservoir or break a fitting, these aren't covered if they're due to user error. If you remove the pump then you'll also void your warranty. If during expansion you fail to tighten your fittings down properly and they leak, this is user error and again isn't covered by the warranty. Basically anything that isn't a defect in material or manufacturing isn't covered by the warranty.


----------



## starrbuck

I'm loving my brand new H240-X and looking into expanding it to my video cards later in the spring.


----------



## msgclb

Today I got my hands on half of a 240, specifically the MCR140-X Drive.









And this is what's in the box!





The question is will it fit in the front of a C70?

Of course it does!



The front of the C70 case has tapped threads for 6-32 screws to support 2x 120mm fans or one 140mm fan.

To install the MCR140-X Drive both cages have to be removed, the 140mm fan moved inside the case and then successfully thread four screws through the front and the radiator.

If I do use my C70 case I might drill out the threads but that will have to wait for another day.


----------



## GTone

UPS today.









Will be unboxing tonight but only to finger it up and read the box and instructions.


----------



## wes1099

Do you guys think the MCP30 pump in the H220-X will be able to handle this config here:



The HDD cage will be gone and the HDDs will most likely be in the 5.25" bays.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Do you guys think the MCP30 pump in the H220-X will be able to handle this config here:
> 
> 
> 
> The HDD cage will be gone and the HDDs will most likely be in the 5.25" bays.


Should handle it without a problem.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Should handle it without a problem.


Awesome! I am going to order the H220-X tomorrow and hopefully I can afford the rest of it by spring/summer.


----------



## Duke976

Does anyone know the sizes of the O-rings in the H220? After cleaning my H220, the O rings are rather thin and worn out. And since swiftech doesn't sell any replacement o rings for the H220, I was wondering if anyone here already replace their O-rings. Thank you


----------



## ssgtnubb

Just ordered 3 of these guys to try out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, will have them in on Wednesday and will do some testing on my 240X. Here's a couple of shots of my system, still working on some cabling items and am thinking on getting a Coldzero lighted midplate.





My colors are way off, just got a Nikon D5300 to replace the D5000 we somehow lost at the Tiger Rock Championship this last summer, I've got to do a better job at learning this camera versus my older one


----------



## Gavush

You went with the 3000rpm ones? Wow - brave. I was considering the 120mm 2000rpm ones for my case/240 radiator but I'm thinking of getting some Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans instead due to ultra low noise at low RPM but ok performance at higher RPM. My Coworker bought some of the 140mm industrial Noctua fans for his new Corsair Obsidian 750D full tower but it's not really together yet - working on a EK CPU loop w/ rigid tubing.


----------



## ssgtnubb

I figure why not give em a try.


----------



## IHach418

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What it covers is normal use in the original configuration and expansion. Both though are limited to user error of any kind. In other words if you aren't careful with installation and manage to puncture your radiator, crack your reservoir or break a fitting, these aren't covered if they're due to user error. If you remove the pump then you'll also void your warranty. If during expansion you fail to tighten your fittings down properly and they leak, this is user error and again isn't covered by the warranty. Basically anything that isn't a defect in material or manufacturing isn't covered by the warranty.


Are you saying that any expansion will void my warranty? So if the pump failed after expanding I'd be unable to get a replacement?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IHach418*
> 
> Are you saying that any expansion will void my warranty? So if the pump failed after expanding I'd be unable to get a replacement?


No, re-read the first statement: *"What it covers is normal use in the original configuration and expansion"*


----------



## IHach418

Ah okay. Thank you.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IHach418*
> 
> Ah okay. Thank you.


he means if you remove the pump and install say the MCP50X


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> uhhbaaaduuhhh thats the one I meant ahah


Need to do some research


----------



## fuloran1

Anyone think the poll should be updated?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Anyone think the poll should be updated?


Unfortunately the original thread was a poll and the poll can not be changed retroactively.


----------



## shamus20

got my H220-X in the mail today, i was a little disappointed when i found out that i could not use my corsair sp120s on it without buying longer screws (i should have expected that in the first place).

here is a couple pictures of the computer before and after the install.


----------



## Train Wreck

When I first looked at the H240X, I thought crap...there's no fluid in there. I could swear it was bone dry.
It's running fine now but I see absolutely no movement....a flow meter would be nice


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> got my H220-X in the mail today, i was a little disappointed when i found out that i could not use my corsair sp120s on it without buying longer screws (i should have expected that in the first place).
> 
> here is a couple pictures of the computer before and after the install.


I'm looking at getting the H240X pretty soon to replace me NH-D14. Are you seeing an improvement in temperatures since switching to your H220X?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> When I first looked at the H240X, I thought crap...there's no fluid in there. I could swear it was bone dry.
> It's running fine now but I see absolutely no movement....a flow meter would be nice


the easiest way to know if a rad has water in it or not is simply by shaking it when you get it. A radiator filled with water has a completely different feeling and weight compared to an empty radiator.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I'm looking at getting the H240X pretty soon to replace me NH-D14. Are you seeing an improvement in temperatures since switching to your H220X?


not a huge amount, but i am getting better airflow over the gpu and other areas of the computer

my computer was running at ^ on silent mode.
(even though it is about 10 outside right now, so i have my heater on max)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> When I first looked at the H240X, I thought crap...there's no fluid in there. I could swear it was bone dry.
> It's running fine now but I see absolutely no movement....a flow meter would be nice


it would be a nice addition, but if you want to see the flow take a look at the reservoir. it might take a little bit but you can see some movement. it just isn't easy to see >.>


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> not a huge amount, but i am getting better airflow over the gpu and other areas of the computer
> 
> my computer was running at ^ on silent mode.
> (even though it is about 10 outside right now, so i have my heater on max)
> it would be a nice addition, but if you want to see the flow take a look at the reservoir. it might take a little bit but you can see some movement. it just isn't easy to see >.>


hey what are your idle/load. I just got a 4790k with a h220x and i can't get below 37-38 idle, but my load @ 4.4 is around 60 which seemed to be normal.


----------



## Fletcherea

My H220x with some extras. 1'st time going all water, was nervous, but was fun =)


----------



## Carbon00ace

Hello Guys,

After searching the thread I could not find an answer. My question is: Does anybody have experience with the H240X and the Fractal R5? I am interested in this cooler with the case and mounting it at the top, however if the case will not work any recommendation on a similar alternative would be great.

Thanks,

Carbon


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fletcherea*
> 
> My H220x with some extras. 1'st time going all water, was nervous, but was fun =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! So cramped! - how do you get any work done in there?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carbon00ace*
> 
> Hello Guys,
> 
> After searching the thread I could not find an answer. My question is: Does anybody have experience with the H240X and the Fractal R5? I am interested in this cooler with the case and mounting it at the top, however if the case will not work any recommendation on a similar alternative would be great.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carbon


I've been looking at pictures of that case since you PM'd me about it. I don't think that there is enough room above the motherboard to accommodate this kit. Have you looked at the Corsair 750D or the Fractal XL R2? Those would be compatible with these kits.


----------



## Carbon00ace

Thanks Bram, I will take a look at both.


----------



## msgclb

I don't know where you live or what you're going to put in that case but I'm going with a Phanteks for my next case.

I first noticed this case in a H240-X 



.


----------



## ironhide138

will the H220x fit in the front of a NZXT H440 case? like will the stock tubes make it? also, does the waterblock on the cpu only fit one way? or can it be instaslled so the tubes enter on the sides?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> will the H220x fit in the front of a NZXT H440 case? like will the stock tubes make it? also, does the waterblock on the cpu only fit one way? or can it be instaslled so the tubes enter on the sides?


The tubing most likely won't reach from the front of the case to the CPU socket. You'll have to get tubing and replace it. Orientation of the water block makes no difference in terms of performance.


----------



## Carbon00ace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> I don't know where you live or what you're going to put in that case but I'm going with a Phanteks for my next case.
> 
> I first noticed this case in a H240-X
> 
> 
> 
> .


I am in the Southwest of the US and I saw the same review which really got me interested in this cooler. Ideally what I am looking for is a mid-ATX with good airflow. Those Phanteks do look really cool. My plan is:


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> will the H220x fit in the front of a NZXT H440 case? like will the stock tubes make it? also, does the waterblock on the cpu only fit one way? or can it be instaslled so the tubes enter on the sides?


I have the H440 for the time being and the H240-X. I have mine mounted in the top, where there is (barely) clearance between the top of the case and the motherboard. Aside from tube length to the water block, for mounting up front, I think you'd have to either remove the drive bays or try to mount the radiator on the back of the drive bays (which may or may not fit).


----------



## ironhide138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> I have the H440 for the time being and the H240-X. I have mine mounted in the top, where there is (barely) clearance between the top of the case and the motherboard. Aside from tube length to the water block, for mounting up front, I think you'd have to either remove the drive bays or try to mount the radiator on the back of the drive bays (which may or may not fit).


Awesome, thanks. Was planning on going with white tubes anyways, and mounting 360 rad up top, with h220x in the front.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> hey what are your idle/load. I just got a 4790k with a h220x and i can't get below 37-38 idle, but my load @ 4.4 is around 60 which seemed to be normal.


i have'nt done too much testing, but at idle my computer runs a 29-35 (custom fan curve) and when i have it running at full load it usually hits 55-60c. i might move the CPU block pwm from CPU opt slot to the pwm splitter but i am not sure if it will make enough of a difference...

any suggestions on programs i can use for benchmarking and testing?


----------



## emsj86

Phanteks luxe or pro our great options to be honest for 90 dollars the pro can't be beat it will fit any aio and almost any water cooling you through at it expect really thick rads on top. Just a suggestion but if your in the. 90-150 range a 90 pro or 130 dollar luxe can't be beat


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> i have'nt done too much testing, but at idle my computer runs a 29-35 (custom fan curve) and when i have it running at full load it usually hits 55-60c. i might move the CPU block pwm from CPU opt slot to the pwm splitter but i am not sure if it will make enough of a difference...
> 
> any suggestions on programs i can use for benchmarking and testing?


linx, aida, ibt, prime 95. Try prime 95 small and see if you hit the 90's. Also are your fan set to push or pull?


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> linx, aida, ibt, prime 95. Try prime 95 small and see if you hit the 90's. Also are your fan set to push or pull?


It hit 90 for a couple seconds (before fan profile kicked in) then dropped down to a stable 88c
as for fan config it is set to pull on the top. but that will probably change if i decide to install my noctua nf-p12's


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> It hit 90 for a couple seconds (before fan profile kicked in) then dropped down to a stable 88c
> as for fan config it is set to pull on the top. but that will probably change if i decide to install my noctua nf-p12's


hmm, my think is currently set to push so it exhaust the air out of the case. If i do prime 95 small with out changing the voltage my 4790k hit 100c @ 4.4. I wonder if i got a really bad chip, since i've never been able to hit the 28-33ish idle area after multiple reseat and new tim.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> hmm, my think is currently set to push so it exhaust the air out of the case. If i do prime 95 small with out changing the voltage my 4790k hit 100c @ 4.4. I wonder if i got a really bad chip, since i've never been able to hit the 28-33ish idle area after multiple reseat and new tim.


It's likely you didn't. P95 and Devil's Canyon chips have a known issue that causes increased temps. Use OCCT, Linx or AIDA64 for accurate temp readings.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I agree p95 worked ok with my amd chip but not my i7 4790k. P96 was 10-20 degrees hotter than any other tests I have run I personally like ibt. Aida64 doesn't give enough heat I max 58. Ibt I max at 70 on a custom loop. When it is hotter in my room I max 78.


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> got my H220-X in the mail today, i was a little disappointed when i found out that i could not use my corsair sp120s on it without buying longer screws (i should have expected that in the first place).


I have SP120s too, and I would stick with the fans that come with the H220-X. They're great, quiet, and move a lot of air.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> got my H220-X in the mail today, i was a little disappointed when i found out that i could not use my corsair sp120s on it without buying longer screws (i should have expected that in the first place).


What kind of an issue did you run into with the SP120's? I have them installed on my H220-x and I don't remember needing different screws.


----------



## ForTheHorde

Guys i'm thinking of buying the Phanteks Mini XL case (the twin motherboard case) and want to know if a H220X or better still a H240X will reach the matx board from the front fan position without having to mod the cooler?


----------



## emsj86

It should fit the mini xl up front. It fits up front onager cases. Why not out it up top?


----------



## ForTheHorde

The case is twin motherboard case, the bottom motherboard Matx is at the bottom of the case with a ITX board above it.


----------



## emsj86

I've seen videos of the case. I still say it will fit. The 220x has a good amount of tubing. Note you may have to move hdd cages in order to fit it up front. But you can get the hdd bracket and with the ssd brackets unless you need massive storage you should be fine


----------



## ForTheHorde

Yes i plan to strip everything out and buy the extra 3.5 + 2.5 drive mounts which will be out the way of everything







I am thinking of Swiftech becauase i will want to liquid cool my gpu and the cpu of the itx board in the future but will have to wait as i dont have the $$$


----------



## ironhide138

Dumb question.... any dangers to ordering a h220x during the winter? I know it sits in the back of a truck all day, and purolator likes to leave packages on my front poarch all the time, even when its -20...... will this freezethe coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Dumb question.... any dangers to ordering a h220x during the winter? I know it sits in the back of a truck all day, and purolator likes to leave packages on my front poarch all the time, even when its -20...... will this freezethe coolant?


Yes, if your temperatures get into the -20 degree range you could run the risk of freezing the coolant. I believe that the coolant can handle a minimum temperature of about -5 Celsius. Our engineer is at CES right now, so I'll have to confirm that when he gets back on Monday.


----------



## ironhide138

well damn. not sure if its worth taking the risk. IF the coolant were to freeze, would it still work fine assuming I let it defrost before installation?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> well damn. not sure if its worth taking the risk. IF the coolant were to freeze, would it still work fine assuming I let it defrost before installation?


Due to expansion of the coolant it would likely crack the acrylic window. This could possibly be why we've seen a couple of these lately. The acrylic window has the most give and therefore it would be the likeliest place for damage to occur if the coolant expanded.


----------



## VSG

Yeah the acrylic used in the reservoir is pretty soft!


----------



## zila

Knowing what the situation is with all this extreme cold weather, when placing an order would it be possible to request to have an H220X shipped empty of coolant? I live in Chicago and I gotta tell ya we've got -2°F with wind chills down to 30 below zero. No way I can order an H220X now if it is full of fluid. Even empty I would have to let that sucker thaw out for a few days or I could tear up the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Knowing what the situation is with all this extreme cold weather, when placing an order would it be possible to request to have an H220X shipped empty of coolant? I live in Chicago and I gotta tell ya we've got -2°F with wind chills down to 30 below zero. No way I can order an H220X now if it is full of fluid. Even empty I would have to let that sucker thaw out for a few days or I could tear up the pump.


That's something we're looking into. PM me and I'll see what I can do for you.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Knowing what the situation is with all this extreme cold weather, when placing an order would it be possible to request to have an H220X shipped empty of coolant? I live in Chicago and I gotta tell ya we've got -2°F with wind chills down to 30 below zero. No way I can order an H220X now if it is full of fluid. Even empty I would have to let that sucker thaw out for a few days or I could tear up the pump.


Uh oh. I didn't think about that. I just ordered an H220-x and I live in northern VA where the high today was 14°F with wind chills that went down to -6°F. If the coolant freezes will it destroy my unit?
EDIT: My order just shipped so it's a little late to try to prevent anything now.
EDIT #2: Just checked the forecast for next week (which probably isn't that accurate this far out) and it could get down to 20°F at times, which is about -7°C.


----------



## ForTheHorde

A lot of coolants are rated around -5 to -8°c, so without the windchill as its being transported u hopefully will be ok.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> What kind of an issue did you run into with the SP120's? I have them installed on my H220-x and I don't remember needing different screws.


the vibrations dampening mounts are to thick to fit the stock screws, but after some research i think i might have grabbed the wrong model for rad performance..


----------



## msgclb

My original 140mm fan was a Swiftech non PWM so I ordered the PWM version hoping for open corners but as you can see it's a closed corner fan.

Because the front of the C70 has 6-32 screw holes I've used 1 1/2" screws with a couple of 3mm gaskets.



When I put it together and attempted to add my coolant I made a mess when it tipped over.

My solution was to put it in a box as shown below.



Until I got all the spilled coolant mopped up I wasn't sure if I had a leak but so far the only leak I've got is a 90º adapter on the GPU and I don't have one.


----------



## wes1099

I have been refreshing the UPS tracking for my H220-X every 5 minutes for the past 9 or so hours. I have an issue.


----------



## Radmanhs

I have had 3 swiftech h220 and 1 h220-x pumps die on me and I'm coming to the conclusion it might be my mobo for some reason. I have my case fan controller that i might be able to connect it to, which runs at 5/7/12V? I think it would be better than having the fans and pump together so it stays steady instead of vamping up and down as my cpu heats up and cools down.

Would that be fine?


----------



## Train Wreck

As much as I like the H240X, I wish the LED wasn't white. I wish it was RGB of course but I'd be satisfied if it was blue so that it would match the CPU block and the Windforce logos on the video cards.

Can that LED be changed easily??


----------



## rjajmr0221

Can I be one of the cool kids?









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> As much as I like the H240X, I wish the LED wasn't white. I wish it was RGB of course but I'd be satisfied if it was blue so that it would match the CPU block and the Windforce logos on the video cards.
> 
> Can that LED be changed easily??


I dont think it'll be easy, but the most non invasive way of changing the color of the window is to use a small cut of transparent vinyl wrap in the color of your choice(the same kind used for custom headlight colors for cars)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I dont think it'll be easy, but the most non invasive way of changing the color of the window is to use a small cut of transparent vinyl wrap in the color of your choice(the same kind used for custom headlight colors for cars)


I second this...The led is bright and will shine through just fine...plus it doesn't void your warranty


----------



## baconboys

Wind chill only affects living organisms (people) that is why it can be 33 degrees F or 1 degree C with a 40 mph wind and you will see water running down the street, that being said shipping a water filled cooler anywhere the freezing point seems like a bad Idea. Swiftech could get some stickers made up that say do not freeze on them like they do for medical supplies and you should be able to insure for it. I know this doesn't help you much but good luck.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221*
> 
> Can I be one of the cool kids?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why post a non-swiftech aio here? And why do you use two sli connector bridges just for two cards?3


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why post a non-swiftech aio here? And why do you use two sli connector bridges just for two cards?3


Its made by swiftech.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Its made by swiftech.


Ohhh, yeah I remember that is because of the patent infringement issue. Sorry, my bad.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ohhh, yeah I remember that is because of the patent infringement issue. Sorry, my bad.


Yeah and what sucks is that I read in our news section not too long ago that CM finally lost in court for it too, buy em while they are still on shelves lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Yeah and what sucks is that I read in our news section not too long ago that CM finally lost in court for it too, buy em while they are still on shelves lol


Yeah that definitely sucks! But is there any reason to recommend the H220 over the H220-X anymore?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> Wind chill only affects living organisms (people) that is why it can be 33 degrees F or 1 degree C with a 40 mph wind and you will see water running down the street, that being said shipping a water filled cooler anywhere the freezing point seems like a bad Idea. Swiftech could get some stickers made up that say do not freeze on them like they do for medical supplies and you should be able to insure for it. I know this doesn't help you much but good luck.


You should go read the howstuffworks article on wind chill. Wind chill can pretty much effect anything warmer than the ambient temperature because it accelerates the loss of heat through convection. If what you said was true, a PC air cooler or radiator would preform just as good without fans than it would with fans.


----------



## Radmanhs

is it ok to hook up a h220-x to a constant source of power like my case fan controller instead of the splitter which connects to mobo?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah that definitely sucks! But is there any reason to recommend the H220 over the H220-X anymore?


there are a very few exceptions where an H220 will fit, but not a h220x. the most prominent one are users who want to watercool inside a Ncase M1


----------



## fatlardo

Can I use the H220X/H240X to just run only SLI GTX 780 Classifieds, no cpu? New/attempt to water cooling. I have the Noctua D14 and it does a pretty good job. What else would I need? TIA


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatlardo*
> 
> Can I use the H220X/H240X to just run only SLI GTX 780 Classifieds, no cpu? New/attempt to water cooling. I have the Noctua D14 and it does a pretty good job. What else would I need? TIA


If you're just cooling gpu's, you'd waste $ on the MCP50x that comes with the 220x/240x(cannot be mounted on a gpu). the Rad/Pump combo only comes in the form of the MCR140-X(140mm rad). For exact radiator recommendations, it depends on what fans you'll be using and at what speed really.


----------



## fatlardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> If you're just cooling gpu's, you'd waste $ on the MCP50x that comes with the 220x/240x(cannot be mounted on a gpu). the Rad/Pump combo only comes in the form of the MCR140-X(140mm rad). For exact radiator recommendations, it depends on what fans you'll be using and at what speed really.


Will the MCR140-X cool 2 gtx 780 classifieds overclocked well? I have the Corsair 500r Case, so I'll use the best fan I can fit.


----------



## VSG

Not really. I don't know about the case but you would need more radiator space as well as the GPU blocks of course.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatlardo*
> 
> Will the MCR140-X cool 2 gtx 780 classifieds overclocked well? I have the
> Will the MCR140-X cool 2 gtx 780 classifieds overclocked well? I have the Corsair 500r Case, so I'll use the best fan I can fit.


not alone no, you would either have to:

A) Buy the MCR140-x along with another radiator + gpu blocks and appropriate tubing/fittings

B) buy the MCR-X20(older design, comes in 220(240mm) or 320(360mm)) radiators and appropriate blocks. I don't have first hand experiences with the ones in question, so I cant say how much radiator space you would exactly need. Regardless though, GPU's receive major temperature decreases in general with watercooling. (as a gamer, some people question why we spend so much cooling on the CPU, when most of the performance gain would be gained from cooling the gpu)

what i understand baout the 500r, it can take top and bottom radiator mounts

edit: and of course back. front mounts would require removing hdd cages


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> is it ok to hook up a h220-x to a constant source of power like my case fan controller instead of the splitter which connects to mobo?


I believe so. It would be ******ed if you couldn't.


----------



## VSG

Not really, this is a PWM pump that takes power via SATA and control via a PWM header.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not really, this is a PWM pump that takes power via SATA and control via a PWM header.


Therefore you can power it over SATA and control it with a PWM fan controller.


----------



## VSG

Isn't that what I said? I think the guy above was asking about powering via a fan controller.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Therefore you can power it over SATA and control it with a PWM fan controller.


You might want to read on this: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx

PWM fan controllers aren't generally recommended as they do not operate a native PWM signal. I think that if you run a pump off of a PWM fan controller that sends a PWM signal that is voltage-modulated it will void your warranty with Swiftech, I swear that I read about that in this thread in the past.


----------



## VSG

By PWM fan controllers, I meant actual PWM.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You might want to read on this: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
> 
> PWM fan controllers aren't generally recommended as they do not operate a native PWM signal. I think that if you run a pump off of a PWM fan controller that sends a PWM signal that is voltage-modulated it will void your warranty with Swiftech, I swear that I read about that in this thread in the past.


I am so freaking confused. Why on earth do they call all 'PWM' stuff PWM if it is not all the same PWM...


----------



## Radmanhs

Hmmm, my fan controller is just controlled by voltage at 3 different amounts. Just want sure if I could because I have had 4 swifetch pumps die on me


----------



## Dhalmel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> front with the pump on top or bottom is okay, whats NOT okay is if placed at the bottom of the case where rad is attached to case, and the pump is above it as shown on the site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also believe side mounts are fine as well, in either orientation


Planning to get this quality product (when I find a retailer with stock lol) and was worried if it couldn't be mounted to the side with this test bench pictured below.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I second this...The led is bright and will shine through just fine...plus it doesn't void your warranty


Knowing that I am a bit of a moron when it comes to tools, I should probably avoid taking the cooler apart just to change the LED.
I'll just stick with the vinyl covering in blue


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Knowing that I am a bit of a moron when it comes to tools, I should probably avoid taking the cooler apart just to change the LED.
> I'll just stick with the vinyl covering in blue


I would suggest turning it on its side and removing the bleed screw being very careful with it then vinyl.the window and stick a toothpick through the vinyl in the bleed hole then re thread the bleed screw very carefully...this will prevent you having to cut around the bleed screw which is not easy


----------



## VSG

The LEDs are directed downwards from the top of the reservoir. You really have to take it apart to put on the vinyl sheet.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I would suggest turning it on its side and removing the bleed screw being very careful with it then vinyl.the window and stick a toothpick through the vinyl in the bleed hole then re thread the bleed screw very carefully...this will prevent you having to cut around the bleed screw which is not easy


this is why you dont apply the vinyl sheet first, you take a piece of paper and a pencil and draw the cutout on paper, then cut the shape out using the paper as a guide/stencil


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The LEDs are directed downwards from the top of the reservoir. You really have to take it apart to put on the vinyl sheet.


perhaps it comes from laying carpet but I find it easier to cut it a little large then trim as needed with a razor...Although I'm sure it would be easier for most to cut it to the size of the whole window then reassemble and let the shroud cover any inconsistencies rather than possibly cutting it too small and seeing white around the edges
edit: if you are precise enough this would prevent you from having to drain and disassemble...if not you may waste a lot of vinyl and time trying


----------



## wes1099

I am going to be replacing the tubing and coolant in my H220-X when it arrives. How do you guys suggest I rinse out all of the original coolant after I pour out what I can? I was thinking I would just pour distilled water into the res and turn the pump on. Another question, where does the water go after it goes through the pump? Does it go through the radiator then to the CPU block, or to the CPU block then the radiator?


----------



## VSG

CPU block, then radiator.

Yay 9000 posts


----------



## popngen

has anyone replaced just their cpu block on their h220x or h240x?

i'm looking at the cpu block roundup, and a little bummed out that the apogee xl scored pretty low.

wondering if i simply replace the cpu block with the ek supremacy, i'll get better results.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popngen*
> 
> has anyone replaced just their cpu block on their h220x or h240x?
> 
> i'm looking at the cpu block roundup, and a little bummed out that the apogee xl scored pretty low.
> 
> wondering if i simply replace the cpu block with the ek supremacy, i'll get better results.


I dunno a lot about cpu blocks but from what I've b read and seen this block performs pretty admirably in fact you might get 3 to 5c at best case but probably less


----------



## Train Wreck

How many of you H240X owners replaced the thermal paste that came with it?

I'm thinking of doing it to get better cooling for my 5960X


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah that definitely sucks! But is there any reason to recommend the H220 over the H220-X anymore?


Personally I like the aesthetics of the h220 pump setup more but it also has a bit more flexibility. I'm into matx and hope to go itx this year so the h220 setup is more flexible for me. Such as my Lian li t60 bench and Silverstone tj08e. Wish they could still sell them for the times the h220x doesnt fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dhalmel*
> 
> Planning to get this quality product (when I find a retailer with stock lol) and was worried if it couldn't be mounted to the side with this test bench pictured below.


I literally just retired mine for the moment. Think Newegg has them no?


----------



## Dhalmel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Personally I like the aesthetics of the h220 pump setup more but it also has a bit more flexibility. I'm into matx and hope to go itx this year so the h220 setup is more flexible for me. Such as my Lian li t60 bench and Silverstone tj08e. Wish they could still sell them for the times the h220x doesnt fit.
> I literally just retired mine for the moment. Think Newegg has them no?


Cool do you think the H240x's stock tubing will be long enough to fit the air flow fan bracket accessory?


----------



## choLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popngen*
> 
> has anyone replaced just their cpu block on their h220x or h240x?
> i'm looking at the cpu block roundup, and a little bummed out that the apogee xl scored pretty low.
> wondering if i simply replace the cpu block with the ek supremacy, i'll get better results.


You'll certainly lower your temps by a few degrees, but you'd have to think if it'll be worth the extra cost.
An excerpt from a review
Quote:


> We think that this makes the block a must buy then for anyone who wants a custom block and the performance loss is small enough to not be a concern.


I think I saw the same graphs in that review and in the CPU block round up here on OCN, so I would think that review is pretty credible.


----------



## Pedros

Hey guys.

So i have the possibility to get a Swiftech H320 for a very good price ( it's slightly used ... 1 month only ) .
My problem is about pump issues and other. Since it's not bought from a store, i won't have a way to rma it.

So, from your experience, is the H320 ( and H200's ) pump very like to give problems sooner or later ... and for that, skip buying Swiftech products in the second hand market?
Another problem i have is ... in Portugal, i can't find any stores selling Swiftech H*** products. 1 year ago i saw some stores selling them but now, due to RMA issues ( too much time to solve some situations maybe )... the stores just dropped the Swiftech products support, and that sucks.

Btw, This will be a upgrade from a H100i ...


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why post a non-swiftech aio here? And why do you use two sli connector bridges just for two cards?3


Look at the first page the glacer is part of this thread. Also it is a rebranded swiftech h220. Everything is basically the same and can be expanded.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Look at the first page the glacer is part of this thread. Also it is a rebranded swiftech h220. Everything is basically the same and can be expanded.


Yes, I did correct myself already a few posts back.


----------



## wes1099

To refill a H220-X do I just lay it down so the res is above the pump, and then add fluid, switch pump on and off, and repeat until completely full?


----------



## popngen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> You'll certainly lower your temps by a few degrees, but you'd have to think if it'll be worth the extra cost.
> An excerpt from a review
> I think I saw the same graphs in that review and in the CPU block round up here on OCN, so I would think that review is pretty credible.


Thanks, I did see this review, but the graphs in that particular review still tell me that it overall performed consistently at the lower tier. =( I wonder if a few degrees is worth ~$100-$200 for a used supremacy ek evo


----------



## popngen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I dunno a lot about cpu blocks but from what I've b read and seen this block performs pretty admirably in fact you might get 3 to 5c at best case but probably less


According to the first graph of

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/09/02/swiftech-apogee-xl-performance-pcs-customized-rog-edition-review/

I would get that change in temp you mentioned, assuming I'm using the same radiator/pump combo etc.

I think it will also depend on the cpu also


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> To refill a H220-X do I just lay it down so the res is above the pump, and then add fluid, switch pump on and off, and repeat until completely full?


Can you put the case on its back and go in through the optical bays to access the fill-port? If so, that would be the best way to fill it and yes, that's how you would go about it.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you put the case on its back and go in through the optical bays to access the fill-port? If so, that would be the best way to fill it and yes, that's how you would go about it.


I probably can't turn my case that way, but I can find some other way to keep it in that orientation.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popngen*
> 
> Thanks, I did see this review, but the graphs in that particular review still tell me that it overall performed consistently at the lower tier. =( I wonder if a few degrees is worth ~$100-$200 for a used supremacy ek evo


Why would a used one cost so much?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-copper-acetal.html

Nothing about watercooling is 'worth it' if you don't place a high value on lowering temps a few degrees.


----------



## popngen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why would a used one cost so much?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-copper-acetal.html
> 
> Nothing about watercooling is 'worth it' if you don't place a high value on lowering temps a few degrees.


Good point. And I could have sworn I saw somewhere that the ek supremacy evo was much more expensive. Thank you for the link, didn't think to check ppcs!


----------



## mistax

anyone know where i can find 1150 screw set + back plate for my h220x? I'm looking to replace the screws since they were stripped and the backplate too.


----------



## VSG

Oh dear, I sympathize fully. Per Bryan can help out.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quick question, though I'm sure it's fine to do. I'm looking at expanding my H220 again. I already have fitting for any rads or GPU block, but they're 3/8x1/2. I'm assuming it wouldn't be a problem since the internal diameter is the same, and I would just need smaller clamps for the H220?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Quick question, though I'm sure it's fine to do. I'm looking at expanding my H220 again. I already have fitting for any rads or GPU block, but they're 3/8x1/2. I'm assuming it wouldn't be a problem since the internal diameter is the same, and I would just need smaller clamps for the H220?


correct. you would need new clamps, thats all


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> correct. you would need new clamps, thats all


Awesome. Thanks a lot!


----------



## demitrisln

Received my H220X on Friday let it sit in 75degree F room Friday Saturday and installed it on Sunday (its below zero here) Noticed last night after a few hours of use small cracks coming from the window screw. Anybody else seen this? I turned off my computer and haven't ran it not sure if I want to risk it.


----------



## VSG

Did you tighten it at all since you got it? It's not something new thanks to the soft plexi.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hey guys, I got a couple of question.

I will be getting my H220X in a couple of days and I would like to know if anyone had tried adding 1 additional fan beside the reservoir and if I will get slightly better cooling if I change the default Helix fan to GT AP-15 fans.

Thanks.!!


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Did you tighten it at all since you got it? It's not something new thanks to the soft plexi.


No didn't touch that part at all. Just worried about using it. It doesn't seem to be leaking just don't want to stress out the glass anymore and create more cracks.

Emailed Bryan at Swiftech waiting to hear back right now.


----------



## demitrisln

I put in a Corsair fan right beside the rad without any problem. Not sure how much it helps the temps overall.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> anyone know where i can find 1150 screw set + back plate for my h220x? I'm looking to replace the screws since they were stripped and the backplate too.


Swiftech site has them if I remember correctly. The H220-X uses the Swiftech Apogeee XL CPU block, so you need to look for parts for it. The 1150, 1155, and 1156 sockets have identically spaced mounting holes.

Here is the CPU block - http://www.swiftech.com/Socket1155BP.aspx

As far as mounting screws go, I can not seem to find replacements on the swiftech site, you will probably have to contact support about that.

To avoid stripping the screws in the future, try using a larger phillips head bit. A no. 2 phillips head bit is most likely what the mounting screws were intended for.

EDIT: I just realized that the backplate that comes with the Apogee XL is actually a different shape than the one I linked above, so I am not sure if it will work. You would probably be a lot better off contacting @BramSLI1


----------



## Pedros

Ok, opinion guys ...

H220-X or H320?

The H320 i can get from a friend that used it for 1 month. The price will be around 100Euros.

Or should i just get the H220-X for the newer layout/elements ?

This will be only used for CPU ( Oc'ed ).


----------



## michaelius

Is there any reason why H220-X is so hard to find in Europe ?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> Ok, opinion guys ...
> 
> H220-X or H320?
> 
> The H320 i can get from a friend that used it for 1 month. The price will be around 100Euros.
> 
> Or should i just get the H220-X for the newer layout/elements ?
> 
> This will be only used for CPU ( Oc'ed ).


I would get the H220-X. I think that tall CPU blocks with built in pumps look incredibly dumb, and even if the CPU block on the H320 wasn't so tall, the H220-X waterblock looks much better (at least in my opinion). Also, the H220-X pump (MCP30) would probably be able to handle more components if you wanted to expand later. From what I have heard, for just a CPU 240mm of radiator is plenty if you have decent airflow going through the radiator. Another thing is that the H220-X uses swiftech's flagship waterblock which seems to be higher quality than the waterblock on the H320 based off of the reviews I have read.


----------



## Train Wreck

I have the H240X and love it so far.

How many of you didn't use the included thermal paste and used something else? I'm thinking of getting something different and maybe get lower temps.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I have the H240X and love it so far.
> 
> How many of you didn't use the included thermal paste and used something else? I'm thinking of getting something different and maybe get lower temps.


I am going to use the paste that comes with it, but later I am going to get some Gelid GC Extreme. I am going for Gelid GC Extreme because that is what people have said is the best, and it will work for my GPU too since it isn't based on diamond nano particles that scratch things up.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I am going to use the paste that comes with it, but later I am going to get some Gelid GC Extreme. I am going for Gelid GC Extreme because that is what people have said is the best, and it will work for my GPU too since it isn't based on diamond nano particles that scratch things up.


Ok then....Gelid GC Extreme it is. I've read that recommendation from several different sources.

I'll order it tonight


----------



## deme

Received mine today!


----------



## wes1099

I am so excited my H220-X gets here tomorrow, and I have the tubing I am going to replace the stock tubing with, but unfortunately my PT Nuke PHN biocide might not arrive until Wednesday of next week and it is necessary for tubing replacement because I am also replacing the coolant with distilled water which needs something in it to prevent algae and other living organisms from growing in it. This means that I can either install the H220-X when it arrives and completely uninstall it a few days later to replace tubing (massive pain in the arse due to my cheap case), or I could wait to install it until I have the biocide. Ugh


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I am so excited my H220-X gets here tomorrow, and I have the tubing I am going to replace the stock tubing with, but unfortunately my PT Nuke PHN biocide might not arrive until Wednesday of next week and it is necessary for tubing replacement because I am also replacing the coolant with distilled water which needs something in it to prevent algae and other living organisms from growing in it. This means that I can either install the H220-X when it arrives and completely uninstall it a few days later to replace tubing (massive pain in the arse due to my cheap case), or I could wait to install it until I have the biocide. Ugh


I would set it all up and get it plumbed and filled and bled then when the biocide gets there tilt the case you can get to the fillport without spillage and put the recommended amount of biocide in... running it for a few days you arent going to get algae buildup that fast







Then it will be ready to rock when the biocide is there it wont be horribly hard to get in even if you have to use a eyedropper etc...i used a visine bottle to put mine in :0


----------



## Comp4k

Well folks, after 1 month or so of usage...I have developed a small leak












Hope the RMA process is smooth


----------



## Mega Man

i told you the screw driver does not belong wedged IN the tubing *i kidd*


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I have the H240X and love it so far.
> 
> How many of you didn't use the included thermal paste and used something else? I'm thinking of getting something different and maybe get lower temps.


I used MX-2 because it was what I had on hand. I like my temps a lot. I am thinking of changing to Gelid GC-extreme though. Probably won't because getting my block mounted on the 240 was a huge pain.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Well folks, after 1 month or so of usage...I have developed a small leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the RMA process is smooth


Oh man, that really sucks. I hope the RMA process is fast and easy for you!


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> I used MX-2 because it was what I had on hand. I like my temps a lot. I am thinking of changing to Gelid GC-extreme though. Probably won't because getting my block mounted on the 240 was a huge pain.


I just ordered Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Compound and some of that Articlean Cleaner.
I'm getting it on Friday and I'll be able to do it over the weekend.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I just ordered Gelid GC Extreme Thermal Compound and some of that Articlean Cleaner.
> I'm getting it on Friday and I'll be able to do it over the weekend.


Sweet, I would change it if I didn't need 2 extra hands to mount the thing!


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Sweet, I would change it if I didn't need 2 extra hands to mount the thing!


My computer's been running for about two weeks now so I can't imagine that it'll be difficult to clean the old stuff off.

And the waterblock should just pop right off. If I remember right, it was just a couple of turns of each of the mounting screws.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> My computer's been running for about two weeks now so I can't imagine that it'll be difficult to clean the old stuff off.
> 
> And the waterblock should just pop right off. If I remember right, it was just a couple of turns of each of the mounting screws.


Getting it off isnt the issue, installing it was a huge pain for me.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Getting it off isnt the issue, installing it was a huge pain for me.


It was for me as well....only because I tried to use the wrong mounting kit LOL
After I realized what I did, I used the correct kit and it went on easy.

What made it difficult for you?


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> My computer's been running for about two weeks now so I can't imagine that it'll be difficult to clean the old stuff off.
> 
> And the waterblock should just pop right off. If I remember right, it was just a couple of turns of each of the mounting screws.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> It was for me as well....only because I tried to use the wrong mounting kit LOL
> After I realized what I did, I used the correct kit and it went on easy.
> 
> What made it difficult for you?


Trying to hold the back plate on while installing the screws. I had to have the wife come in and hold it for me. I may have made it much more difficult than it needed to be.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Trying to hold the back plate on while installing the screws. I had to have the wife come in and hold it for me. I may have made it much more difficult than it needed to be.


I had had the same issue with the AMD backplate was a pain


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Received my H220X on Friday let it sit in 75degree F room Friday Saturday and installed it on Sunday (its below zero here) Noticed last night after a few hours of use small cracks coming from the window screw. Anybody else seen this? I turned off my computer and haven't ran it not sure if I want to risk it.


Just a heads up I talked to Bryan over at Swiftech he said this is a problem and they have been having this happen lately due to the cold weather. Instead of sending the unit back, he is sending me a replacement window and gasket and even offered to do a phone convo and run me thru how to install the replacement window. (thought this would be better so i don't have to worry about it freezing the coolant again) Very helpful.... sucks it has to be done but overall very good experience. I ordered new tubing and coolant from Frozencpu since i'm in Indiana and is only a 2 day point (hopefully won't freeze that fast)

Any advise for first time person putting on tubing fittings / air bubbies and such? Maybe any good YouTube videos? I found a bunch but all are very generic and don't really show alot.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I would set it all up and get it plumbed and filled and bled then when the biocide gets there tilt the case you can get to the fillport without spillage and put the recommended amount of biocide in... running it for a few days you arent going to get algae buildup that fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it will be ready to rock when the biocide is there it wont be horribly hard to get in even if you have to use a eyedropper etc...i used a visine bottle to put mine in :0


Good idea. However, USPS just decided that my biocide was getting here today.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Just a heads up I talked to Bryan over at Swiftech he said this is a problem and they have been having this happen lately due to the cold weather. Instead of sending the unit back, he is sending me a replacement window and gasket and even offered to do a phone convo and run me thru how to install the replacement window. (thought this would be better so i don't have to worry about it freezing the coolant again) Very helpful.... sucks it has to be done but overall very good experience. I ordered new tubing and coolant from Frozencpu since i'm in Indiana and is only a 2 day point (hopefully won't freeze that fast)
> 
> Any advise for first time person putting on tubing fittings / air bubbies and such? Maybe any good YouTube videos? I found a bunch but all are very generic and don't really show alot.


I would also worry about internals being damaged because of the expansion. Make's me wonder if Swiftech should start sending these empty with a container of coolant that can withstand freezing.


----------



## zila

If I decide to get one I'll just go over to my neighborhood Microcenter and pick one up. Shipping any water cooling gear in this weather just isn't wise. Even having something shipped without coolant installed is a risk. The seals can freeze and crack in this weather.

My neighbor ordered an AIO and the hoses had burst open and slushy fluid was all over the inside of the box. It's just too darned cold for shipping now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Well folks, after 1 month or so of usage...I have developed a small leak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the RMA process is smooth


This is the first time I've ever seen a radiator leak after it's been used for a while. That is unless it was really old and corroded. I have read your email and our engineer is looking at it now. I just need to know how long you've been running this kit for? Your email said you ordered it on the 25th of November.


----------



## wes1099

My H220-X just got here and it looks amazing except for one small problem. A piece of the front plate of the CPU block is chipped and it looks like poo now.



Is it possible to get a replacement?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> My H220-X just got here and it looks amazing except for one small problem. A piece of the front plate of the CPU block is chipped and it looks like poo now.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to get a replacement?


Yes, just email me at [email protected] I should be able to assist you with this. Please give me a copy of your invoice and confirm your shipping address as well.


----------



## mistax

My idle temp seems to be on avg 7-9 degree higher than everyone else. I'm currently running the h220x in push to exhaust air and my idle are around 36-37


----------



## orndorf77

I just now noticed the spout on the swiftech h220x cpu barbs are a lot smaller then regular 3/8 id barbs . does this size difference effect temperatures for the worst ?


----------



## Streetdragon

Good news for everyone in Europe! Highflow send out my H240-X. So it should be in Stock in the next days on the Page too!
I will make some pics of my build when i got it and modded my Tower! (Antec 1100)


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is the first time I've ever seen a radiator leak after it's been used for a while. That is unless it was really old and corroded. I have read your email and our engineer is looking at it now. I just need to know how long you've been running this kit for? Your email said you ordered it on the 25th of November.


I put everything together on the 11/27. I'm not sure why it started leaking, recently either- nothing has changed in my system. Or maybe since it is such a small leak I never noticed it until now? The thing is though I have a glossy PSU cover and I when I swapped out my graphics card last week it didn't have any coolant splashes. I noticed it yesterday just glancing into my computer so I'm not sure what's going on here either....

Sent you an e-mail back. +2903874569238475 for your awesome support


----------



## popngen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, just email me at [email protected] I should be able to assist you with this. Please give me a copy of your invoice and confirm your shipping address as well.


FYI, I also saw something similar in the same exact area on mines. It was super tiny and small so it's not a problem.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> My idle temp seems to be on avg 7-9 degree higher than everyone else. I'm currently running the h220x in push to exhaust air and my idle are around 36-37


So questions here.

What's your ambient temp?
What TIM did you use?
Have you tried reseating/reapplying TIM?
Are you quite sure the rad is getting enough air? Many times air starvation is the reason for higher temps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> So questions here.
> 
> What's your ambient temp?
> What TIM did you use?
> Have you tried reseating/reapplying TIM?
> Are you quite sure the rad is getting enough air? Many times air starvation is the reason for higher temps.


Knowing what CPU it's on with clock and voltage might be some handy info, too......along with case and airflow configuration......


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Knowing what CPU it's on with clock and voltage might be some handy info, too......along with case and airflow configuration......


Too true


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It will handle it just fine (unless you get super restrictive elements). Look at the MCP50X review in my sig and see the performance (from 3000 rpm and down for the pump on the H220-X) of the pump. I am midway through an expansion setup myself for the H220-X review and it's handling everything I throw at it at 1 GPM or higher.


Im about to swap an mcp50x into my kit (adding new rad and gpu block). How much louder is this pump versus the stock pump the kit comes with?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> I put everything together on the 11/27. I'm not sure why it started leaking, recently either- nothing has changed in my system. Or maybe since it is such a small leak I never noticed it until now? The thing is though I have a glossy PSU cover and I when I swapped out my graphics card last week it didn't have any coolant splashes. I noticed it yesterday just glancing into my computer so I'm not sure what's going on here either....
> 
> Sent you an e-mail back. +2903874569238475 for your awesome support


No problem. I'm going to send you an email right now approving your RMA request. We need to get this back to find out why it leaked.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is the first time I've ever seen a radiator leak after it's been used for a while. That is unless it was really old and corroded. I have read your email and our engineer is looking at it now. I just need to know how long you've been running this kit for? Your email said you ordered it on the 25th of November.


Did this ever happen in other AIO's of yours?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Did this ever happen in other AIO's of yours?


No. We did have some that leaked due to coolant expansion and the radiator bowed a bit. This doesn't appear to be anything like that and I've never seen anything like this before either.


----------



## mauinho

HighFlow is posting the H240X's finally !!!!!!!!!
Anybody in Europe wanting some they seem to be the place to go very friendly costumer services !
I'll post update once it's here and all setup.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Im about to swap an mcp50x into my kit (adding new rad and gpu block). How much louder is this pump versus the stock pump the kit comes with?


The two fans would be louder anyway, so the MCP50X doesn't add much more to the cooler noise.


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> So questions here.
> 
> What's your ambient temp?
> What TIM did you use?
> Have you tried reseating/reapplying TIM?
> Are you quite sure the rad is getting enough air? Many times air starvation is the reason for higher temps.


rooms around 22C
Stock Tim
reseated 3-4 times.
It should be. I'm considering swapping out the helix for my GT2150. Otherwise i have my rear and top as exhaust 4x f12 on the side a gt2150 as intake on the bottom and a spectre pro for intake on the front


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> rooms around 22C
> Stock Tim
> reseated 3-4 times.
> It should be. I'm considering swapping out the helix for my GT2150. Otherwise i have my rear and top as exhaust 4x f12 on the side a gt2150 as intake on the bottom and a spectre pro for intake on the front


What voltage are you putting on the processor to achieve your overclock?


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What voltage are you putting on the processor to achieve your overclock?


I'm currently undervolting my 4790k to 1.15


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> I'm currently undervolting my 4790k to 1.15


OK, then it's likely that your issue would have to be related to how the block is mounted. If you need further assistance with this you can email me at [email protected]


----------



## orndorf77

would my temperatures get hotter if I was to switch from the swiftech helix 120mm fans to corsair sp120mm quiet edition fans ?


----------



## wes1099

Got my H220-X yesterday. I replaced the stock tubing with clear primochill primoflex, filled it up and let it leak test over night. My average idle temp between the 4 cores is 22°C, and after 3 hours of Prime95 the max temp my CPU reached was 71°C on core 1, and that temp was sustained for 3 seconds. I am running my 4670k at 1.26v 4.3Ghz (used to be 4.5, lowered for stability). Are these temps normal?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Got my H220-X yesterday. I replaced the stock tubing with clear primochill primoflex, filled it up and let it leak test over night. My average idle temp between the 4 cores is 22°C, and after 3 hours of Prime95 the max temp my CPU reached was 71°C on core 1, and that temp was sustained for 3 seconds. I am running my 4670k at 1.26v 4.3Ghz (used to be 4.5, lowered for stability). Are these temps normal?


The idle is quite good, and a max of 71 with that voltage is excellent.


----------



## CSHawkeye

I have a corsair 450D case and wanted to know how the H220X or H240X fits in the case?


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> I have a corsair 450D case and wanted to know how the H220X or H240X fits in the case?


It should fit but you'll have to remove some drive cages.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> I have a corsair 450D case and wanted to know how the H220X or H240X fits in the case?


A person on pcpartpicker posted a build of his with the 450D case and the H220_X and it looks like it fit perfectly without issues


----------



## CSHawkeye

Ok is there a direct link to find it?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The two fans would be louder anyway, so the MCP50X doesn't add much more to the cooler noise.


Awesome, thanks. Did you just pop the top off and slip it right in? Or can I expect a small headache when doing this?


----------



## VSG

You do void warranty, mind you. Just keep an eye on the two washers and unscrews the 4 screws at the bottom such that the pump is at the lowest point and can be pulled down. Then reverse the process with the MCP50X. Check out my review in the sig below for more info.

The MCP50X at full speed is louder than both fans, but only just. Slow it down a bit and it gets a lot quieter.


----------



## KeithMadden

Would the Swiftech H240-x fit into the Corsair 500R case? Been looking at the H240-x for ages now


----------



## BramSLI1

I managed to get an H220-X into that case, but it did require a bit of modding due to the heat sink on top of the customer's motherboard. If you have tall heat sinks near the top edge of your board then you may need to do the same. I think you'll lose the top two 5.25 drive bays as well and you may even need to take a Dremel to them for longer radiator.


----------



## rjajmr0221

Since not many on here seem to be running the CM-240L I was hoping to get a little clarity on a few things. It seems the pump is capable of handling Cpu, 2 rads, and even 2 gpu blocks, which is what I hope to eventually achieve. This is where the ?'s come in. I don't plan on cooling my 670 sli setup. I'll be upgrading in a few months when the new cards release. I am hoping to cool whatever I end up with, so I'd like to get any additional rads and anything else i would need now so all I'll have to get is the gpu(s) and water block(s). What would be the best rad combo for this setup going into a fractal arc xl? I can do a 360/280/240 in the top. The 280/240 would be able to be thick with push/pull if necessary without any clearance issues due to an offset in mounting location. The 360 would have to be standard thickness , not sure if i'd be limited to a single row of fans or not before mb clearance became an issue. I can also fit a 280/240 rad in the front and thickness there isn't an issue as I have already removed the drive cages to improve the airflow. Is it worth keeping the stock rad and just getting a high quality rad in addition to it, or should I ditch the stock and upgrade both rads? I understand if i ditch the stock I'd have to add some kind of a res to be able to fill the loop. thanks for the time


----------



## mauinho

Hi guys ,
So after 3 month wait my H240X finally arrived.
Took me around 1 hour to set it up and now it's up and running .
I'm running an i5 4690k @ 3900Mhz stock/boost .
Idle temps. between 30/34.
Prime 95 small FFT's for 15 mins 62 to 64 never going above 64.
Does that sound ok? how are these temps looking ATM in your opinion?
Room temp 15c


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KeithMadden*
> 
> Would the Swiftech H240-x fit into the Corsair 500R case? Been looking at the H240-x for ages now


I literally today fitted my H220-x into the Corsair 500r. Honestly it fits very well, but I have low profile RAM and no long disc drives. The H240-x would be a tight squeeze, as the maximum radiator space on top is 280mm, and the area underneath would be very very tight.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> Ok is there a direct link to find it?


http://pcpartpicker.com/b/G3HNnQ


----------



## CSHawkeye

Excellent, thanks!


----------



## ThorsMalice

Hey guys, I recently got a H220x this december and after having it for about a month I came home to be mortified by this view. It's a small crack coming from the bleed screw which I quickly gorilla glued around in panick to prevent anymore spread hopefully. I'm sure this would warrant a rma but the only problem is that I can't send it off and wait 2+ weeks for a new one to come in as my computer is needed daily and it's currently the only thing I have unless a friend can lend me something of his. Any insight on this would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThorsMalice*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently got a H220x this december and after having it for about a month I came home to be mortified by this view. It's a small crack coming from the bleed screw which I quickly gorilla glued around in panick to prevent anymore spread hopefully. I'm sure this would warrant a rma but the only problem is that I can't send it off and wait 2+ weeks for a new one to come in as my computer is needed daily and it's currently the only thing I have unless a friend can lend me something of his. Any insight on this would be appreciated, thanks.


Please email me about this. We may have another solution for you that will be much quicker. My email address is [email protected]


----------



## psyclist

Does this count?


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all love the Swiftech product. Bryan is amazing had my arclyic screen crack but got another out to me ASAP. Got it installed today with new clear tubing and some blue EK coolant (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24685/ex-liq-412/_EK_Ekoolant_EVO_Concentrate_100mL_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1547)

I've had some issues with air bubbles. After around 5 hours our so of running it and tilting the case it got better. I'm still getting some air build up (but if i push down on the tube it releases, but once i let go it comes back) Also have some condensation on the window. It is on the inside. My PC is running great (20C right now) Am I doing something wrong? Should I do something else? Bad coolant maybe?

Attached are some pictures


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThorsMalice*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently got a H220x this december and after having it for about a month I came home to be mortified by this view. It's a small crack coming from the bleed screw which I quickly gorilla glued around in panick to prevent anymore spread hopefully. I'm sure this would warrant a rma but the only problem is that I can't send it off and wait 2+ weeks for a new one to come in as my computer is needed daily and it's currently the only thing I have unless a friend can lend me something of his. Any insight on this would be appreciated, thanks.


I also had a small crack in my window. Bryan was able to get me a window out and it is pretty painless to install a new one.


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> I've had some issues with air bubbles. After around 5 hours our so of running it and tilting the case it got better. I'm still getting some air build up (but if i push down on the tube it releases, but once i let go it comes back) Also have some condensation on the window. It is on the inside. My PC is running great (20C right now) Am I doing something wrong? Should I do something else? Bad coolant maybe?


You need that reservoir full of coolant, not half full. Add more coolant using the bleed screw to bleed off air very carefully. I laid the computer on its back and let the bubble come to the top of the glass and then unscrewed the bleed till it almost comes out. Then you have a nice controlled way of getting rid of the bubbles I attached a fill line and small funnel to the fill port and then it always had coolant to pull from that line when bleeding air.


----------



## quick1unc

Just a quick question for those that have been running the H220-x for a while. I've had mine going for about 3 months now and for the last few weeks I started hearing the sound of water moving through the system. Up till now the system has been silent so I just wandered if its anything for me to be concerned about. When I look through the side I don't see anything out of the ordinary and no signs of leakage but definitely hearing the water alot lately.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please email me about this. We may have another solution for you that will be much quicker. My email address is [email protected]


That is like the third or fourth time I have seen that same issue in this thread alone. I am getting scared that my H220-X is going to do that too...


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just a quick question for those that have been running the H220-x for a while. I've had mine going for about 3 months now and for the last few weeks I started hearing the sound of water moving through the system. Up till now the system has been silent so I just wandered if its anything for me to be concerned about. When I look through the side I don't see anything out of the ordinary and no signs of leakage but definitely hearing the water alot lately.


not using the 220x, but usually if there's sounds of water, its a tiny airpocket at pump level. one not big enough to cause pump problems, but enough to cause water swooshing, at least thats how it was with my h220.

@above: I would think the people who have acrylic screen problems the most are those who live where ambient can get to less than freezing point(usually a significant amount). DO remember that the people who dont have problems with their 220x dont speak up, most people who talk either is shoing off their new unit or posting a picture of their problem. Tis the law of user review.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all love the Swiftech product. Bryan is amazing had my arclyic screen crack but got another out to me ASAP. Got it installed today with new clear tubing and some blue EK coolant (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24685/ex-liq-412/_EK_Ekoolant_EVO_Concentrate_100mL_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1547)
> 
> I've had some issues with air bubbles. After around 5 hours our so of running it and tilting the case it got better. I'm still getting some air build up (but if i push down on the tube it releases, but once i let go it comes back) Also have some condensation on the window. It is on the inside. My PC is running great (20C right now) Am I doing something wrong? Should I do something else? Bad coolant maybe?
> 
> Attached are some pictures


I was having a similar issue. I ran it for about 16 hours straight at full blast during a leak test and the air all moved to the highest point in the loop like it is supposed to. I just used distilled water in mine, but I got some strange soapy-looking bubbles coming up when I added the biocide. I think it is because the new coolant was mixing with the remains of the coolant that it ships with.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quick1unc*
> 
> Just a quick question for those that have been running the H220-x for a while. I've had mine going for about 3 months now and for the last few weeks I started hearing the sound of water moving through the system. Up till now the system has been silent so I just wandered if its anything for me to be concerned about. When I look through the side I don't see anything out of the ordinary and no signs of leakage but definitely hearing the water alot lately.


this is normally air in the res... it can happen from natural dissipation from heating and contraction....I would look in your res at the top and shine a light to be sure you don't have small bubbles trapped in the impeller area... that's when I get that sound I assume it could be air somewhere else but that's two common places... unfortunately if you don't have a second res you get to unmount and get the air out...if you do sometimes you can move the case around or give the pump a slap to dislodge...I normally force the air through the loop into my second res...if you don't have a second res don't force it through just unmount and see if you can get the air to fillport and top it off...I've had this happen 3 times so far it's normally fairly easy to resolve... the noise is very annoying though sounds almost like a small waterfall...I'll say that two of the three times it was small bubbles in the impeller area


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I was having a similar issue. I ran it for about 16 hours straight at full blast during a leak test and the air all moved to the highest point in the loop like it is supposed to. I just used distilled water in mine, but I got some strange soapy-looking bubbles coming up when I added the biocide. I think it is because the new coolant was mixing with the remains of the coolant that it ships with.


did you guys use a cleaner like what comes with advanced lrt...that's what it looks like and looks nowhere near full... it shouldn't be foamy like that air bubbles should be clear not white foamy.... and if you can see the outline of the flow fins so pronounced you aren't full...if you used a cleaner you didn't get it all out if you didn't I'm not sure what would make it foamy


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> did you guys use a cleaner like what comes with advanced lrt...that's what it looks like and looks nowhere near full... it shouldn't be foamy like that air bubbles should be clear not white foamy.... and if you can see the outline of the flow fins so pronounced you aren't full...if you used a cleaner you didn't get it all out if you didn't I'm not sure what would make it foamy


No I did not use a cleaner, but I do know for a fact that I am mostly full. At the moment I can not see any air in my resivior at all.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please email me about this. We may have another solution for you that will be much quicker. My email address is [email protected]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> That is like the third or fourth time I have seen that same issue in this thread alone. I am getting scared that my H220-X is going to do that too...


Bryan, do you already know the cause of this issue? This is indeed concerning. I live in a tropical country so I'm not sure if I'll be affected with this but I just want to make sure. What happens if there's a leak and it destroys some of the components inside the system, are the damaged components covered by your RMA?


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> You need that reservoir full of coolant, not half full. Add more coolant using the bleed screw to bleed off air very carefully. I laid the computer on its back and let the bubble come to the top of the glass and then unscrewed the bleed till it almost comes out. Then you have a nice controlled way of getting rid of the bubbles I attached a fill line and small funnel to the fill port and then it always had coolant to pull from that line when bleeding air.


Question when the pump is off it goes almost to the max line. When it is running I try to put coolant in it but it won't take (acts like it is full) Is this where the bleed screw would be removed and then I fill it up?

Sorry for all the noob questions.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Question when the pump is off it goes almost to the max line. When it is running I try to put coolant in it but it won't take (acts like it is full) Is this where the bleed screw would be removed and then I fill it up?
> 
> Sorry for all the noob questions.


Never be sorry for noob questions, it's the only way to not be a noob!









Besides, that's what we are here for. That being said, I don't know the answer to your question but I am sure someone will be along to help out.


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Question when the pump is off it goes almost to the max line. When it is running I try to put coolant in it but it won't take (acts like it is full) Is this where the bleed screw would be removed and then I fill it up?
> 
> Sorry for all the noob questions.


You want the air trapped in the res, so you can bleed it. But you need coolant to displace that air. As i said, I found it easier to add a line onto the fill port, then the loop will pull fluid from that line as you open the bleed screw. Just hold the line higher than the res and let gravity do the work. (Keep the line full of fluid) You will need to cap the fill line afterwards some how. Thats how I beat the air bubble beast, there might be other ways, but this worked great for me.


----------



## mauinho

Hi guys,

I've been testing my h240x with a small OC on my i5 @4.5Ghz 1.248v
Idling @ 33/36
Aida64 @ 60/65 for 4 hours
Prime95 small FFT's @ 90 seems quite high should try to resit the block or is it normal?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Question when the pump is off it goes almost to the max line. When it is running I try to put coolant in it but it won't take (acts like it is full) Is this where the bleed screw would be removed and then I fill it up?
> 
> Sorry for all the noob questions.


if you don't have a fill tube or a secondary res you will want the h220-x out in your hands and get the air into the res...Then turn off the PC and move the bubble to the fill port by moving the unit around until it situates...this is a pain to get all the air out but once the bubble is where the fill port is top it off replace the cap and turn the PC back on and see if you got all the air filled in...it can take a lot of time to do it this way and can be frustrating..this is why most people use a barb in the fill port with a length of hose and a stop plug in the end and/or a secondary res...reason being it's hard to get the pesky bubbles is because the return line runs right where the fillport is so the air tends to try to go up the return tube instead of out the fillport so the fill tube allows the air to go there instead of the return line and having the secondary res you can often run the air through and have it collect in the second res and top off there...I personally jump the 24 pin connector and disconnect all but the pump when I bleed the air without second res so only the pump runs and you won't have any risk of spillage damaging anything and you can cycle the pump on and off to see if the air went into the return line...you can do that with pc on too by disconnecting the pump connector while its running but be sure to not leave it off more than 10 or 20 seconds at most so nothing gets too hot


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> You want the air trapped in the res, so you can bleed it. But you need coolant to displace that air. As i said, I found it easier to add a line onto the fill port, then the loop will pull fluid from that line as you open the bleed screw. Just hold the line higher than the res and let gravity do the work. (Keep the line full of fluid) You will need to cap the fill line afterwards some how. Thats how I beat the air bubble beast, there might be other ways, but this worked great for me.


This worked perfectly! All the air bubbles are out and the res is full even when on.... Bad thing happen. The 90degree on the Sata cable broke off. The pump still starts. What exactly does this do? Bryan is there a way I can fix that if it is necessary to have it....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> This worked perfectly! All the air bubbles are out and the res is full even when on.... Bad thing happen. The 90degree on the Sata cable broke off. The pump still starts. What exactly does this do? Bryan is there a way I can fix that if it is necessary to have it....


you mean the 90 degree L inside the connector? If so that's mostly to keep it in and ensure you don't plug it in backwards or upside down however you view it as long as you didn't damage the contacts in it it should be fine...if the part of the L is stuck in the psu connector take a toothpick and get it out for in case you disconnect that in the future it could move into the connector and damage it when you try to cram it back in.... you can replace Sata connectors but i've never done that before and would probably void warranty


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> This worked perfectly! All the air bubbles are out and the res is full even when on.... Bad thing happen. The 90degree on the Sata cable broke off. The pump still starts. What exactly does this do? Bryan is there a way I can fix that if it is necessary to have it....


Great to hear it worked for ya!, if its just the little L piece on the connector, its only there so you cant connect backwards. Just be mindful of how its connected from now on and youll be fine.


----------



## Swuell

Just got my H220-X is a leak test recommended before installation? If so what happens if I don't have some coolant..? Guess I need to buy some :|.


----------



## spacetoast31

if there was a leak, you would know. it comes completely full to the point that if you dont see any liquid in there, than it is FULL. If you see any bubbles in the res, or if you see any wet spots in the case, then i would test it, but its ready to go.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Just got my H220-X is a leak test recommended before installation? If so what happens if I don't have some coolant..? Guess I need to buy some :|.


distilled water if you lose any...it mixes with the current coolant with 0 ill effects....I would leak test...the best way is with.the.green and black wire of the 24 pin connector jumped and only the pump Sata connected to the psu and run for awhile with paper towels near the connectors and over important components...if you do jump the psu be sure you don't touch the metal if you use a paper clip that's why I recommend a length of insulated wire for jumping....you can leak test with most everything disconnected and not jumping the pins but if you get a leak you have to pull the power quick to avoid coolant going where it.shouldnt


----------



## ZC4065

How common are leaks in a cooler like the H220-x?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> distilled water if you lose any...it mixes with the current coolant with 0 ill effects....I would leak test...the best way is with.the.green and black wire of the 24 pin connector jumped and only the pump Sata connected to the psu and run for awhile with paper towels near the connectors and over important components...if you do jump the psu be sure you don't touch the metal if you use a paper clip that's why I recommend a length of insulated wire for jumping....you can leak test with most everything disconnected and not jumping the pins but if you get a leak you have to pull the power quick to avoid coolant going where it.shouldnt


So a leak test is recommended but I'm unsure how to jump it exactly... If I don't jump it but instead just turn it on could I cut the power from the main psu on the back? I have an EVGA Supernova 1200 p2 psu and I can turn it on in eco mode. Am i supposed to hold it while leak testing? I'm an leak test noob lol...

I'm assuming at least all the minimum components need to be connected for the computer to start in order to leak test?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> if there was a leak, you would know. it comes completely full to the point that if you dont see any liquid in there, than it is FULL. If you see any bubbles in the res, or if you see any wet spots in the case, then i would test it, but its ready to go.


So I could actually just install it and see how it is while watching out for leaks? What's the minimum needed--connection wise--to make the computer run again? I sort of forgot. The cpu, ssd/hdd, psu, ram, and dvd drive along with the swiftech?

Thanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So I could actually just install it and see how it is while watching out for leaks? What's the minimum needed--connection wise--to make the computer run again? I sort of forgot. The cpu, ssd/hdd, psu, ram, and dvd drive along with the swiftech?
> 
> Thanks!


well if you aren't going to jump it you.could ideally leave everything plugged in but be sure to provide decent coverage to the board and other components so if you do get a leak you can kill the psu switch or pull the plug and not get anything wet...very rarely will a leak be a super soaking leak it's normally a drip or slow stream as there's not a huge amount of pressure built up...Unless perhaps for some reason a hose comes completely off a barb...I just always jump mine because I'm Paranoid lol...you could probably leak test with just the 24 pin connected to the motherboard and the pump connected...but some motherboards restart when the cpu, cpu fan isn't connected...if you haven't mounted the swiftech to the case yet sure you can hold it in your hand even without fans to leak test but I haven't wanted to stand there for an hour with it in my hands...I normally leak test for about 10 minutes most say an hour or even a few hours...but I'm confident in my connections and I haven't had a leak yet.....yet...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> well if you aren't going to jump it you.could ideally leave everything plugged in but be sure to provide decent coverage to the board and other components so if you do get a leak you can kill the psu switch or pull the plug and not get anything wet...very rarely will a leak be a super soaking leak it's normally a drip or slow stream as there's not a huge amount of pressure built up...Unless perhaps for some reason a hose comes completely off a barb...I just always jump mine because I'm Paranoid lol...you could probably leak test with just the 24 pin connected to the motherboard and the pump connected...but some motherboards restart when the cpu, cpu fan isn't connected...if you haven't mounted the swiftech to the case yet sure you can hold it in your hand even without fans to leak test but I haven't wanted to stand there for an hour with it in my hands...I normally leak test for about 10 minutes most say an hour or even a few hours...but I'm confident in my connections and I haven't had a leak yet.....yet...


I would jump it if I knew how to haha but sadly I don't know how to so was wondering if illing the power from the psu would work just as well? I mean so what do I do exactly.. just put paper towels around everything and make sure it's covered and then hook everything up properly and turn it on and leave it for a couple hours?

XD. You could leak test with only the 24pin connected and the pump connected--without the head connected to the cpu--or the ramsticks in? Haven't mounted the swiftech at all lol... XD. I'm not too inclined to stand for an hour holding it nor staring at it for 3 hours haha...


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been testing my h240x with a small OC on my i5 @4.5Ghz 1.248v
> Idling @ 33/36
> Aida64 @ 60/65 for 4 hours
> Prime95 small FFT's @ 90 seems quite high should try to resit the block or is it normal?


Definitely not normal temps there.On my i5 running at 1.26v, temps hover around low to mid twenties (celcius) while idling, and after 3 hours of Prime95 the max temp I hit was 71°C.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Great to hear it worked for ya!, if its just the little L piece on the connector, its only there so you cant connect backwards. Just be mindful of how its connected from now on and youll be fine.


Thanks it is working perfectly now. Attached are some pictures of the tube without the bubbles... almost a bit scary can't tell if coolant is going through it (but you can see in the res that it is moving around)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I would jump it if I knew how to haha but sadly I don't know how to so was wondering if illing the power from the psu would work just as well? I mean so what do I do exactly.. just put paper towels around everything and make sure it's covered and then hook everything up properly and turn it on and leave it for a couple hours?
> 
> XD. You could leak test with only the 24pin connected and the pump connected--without the head connected to the cpu--or the ramsticks in? Haven't mounted the swiftech at all lol... XD. I'm not too inclined to stand for an hour holding it nor staring at it for 3 hours haha...


jumping is very easy you take a piece of wire and take the 24 pin connector and place one end into the pin socket of the green wire [there is only one green] and the other end of the wire to the black ground right beside it this tricks the psu into thinking the 24 pin is connected to the motherboard as it won't run on its own without this...you can leave all the leads connected to the psu and disconnect them on other end this ensures only the psu and the pump are powered...meaning if it leaks there isn't any electricity going through the components if they get wet...less chance of short circuit etc...


----------



## Streetdragon

I finaly got my H240-X. The Temps are very good. I have at idle 28C and at full load max 51C with my 8350 @ 4500 MHz



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG_20150117_161743.jpg 2435k .jpg file


IMG_20150117_161817.jpg 1535k .jpg file


IMG_20150117_161828.jpg 1473k .jpg file


IMG_20150117_161901.jpg 2093k .jpg file


IMG_20150117_161937.jpg 2494k .jpg file


IMG_20150117_161954.jpg 1491k .jpg file


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So a leak test is recommended but I'm unsure how to jump it exactly... If I don't jump it but instead just turn it on could I cut the power from the main psu on the back? I have an EVGA Supernova 1200 p2 psu and I can turn it on in eco mode. Am i supposed to hold it while leak testing? I'm an leak test noob lol...
> 
> I'm assuming at least all the minimum components need to be connected for the computer to start in order to leak test?


Unplug literally everything except the pump, turn the PSU OFF then take your 24-pin cable and bridge the 4th and 5th pins of the 24-pin cable with something metal like this (count to 4th and 5th pin from left to right on the top row of pins with the little clip facing up) - 

This lets you power on the PSU without anything plugged in except the pump. If you do a leak test with power applied to all your components, any leaks could possible cause a short and ruin your stuff.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been testing my h240x with a small OC on my i5 @4.5Ghz 1.248v
> Idling @ 33/36
> Aida64 @ 60/65 for 4 hours
> Prime95 small FFT's @ 90 seems quite high should try to resit the block or is it normal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Definitely not normal temps there.On my i5 running at 1.26v, temps hover around low to mid twenties (celcius) while idling, and after 3 hours of Prime95 the max temp I hit was 71°C.


There could well be huge disparities caused by MB voltage settings and handling, as well as power saving features. This will cause dramatic differences in idle temps. This is one of the big reasons that no one talks about (or should talk about) idle temps.

As for P95....do we know if the OP is using a 4690K? If he is, then those 90+ temps are theoretically "normal" since P95 makes many DC chips temps go through the roof. I am guessing it is judging by the other temps.

If the AIDA run is CPU or CPU+FPU, these temps look perfectly solid.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I finaly got my H240-X. The Temps are very good. I have at idle 28C and at full load max 51C with my 8350 @ 4500 MHz
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161743.jpg 2435k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161817.jpg 1535k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161828.jpg 1473k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161901.jpg 2093k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161937.jpg 2494k .jpg file
> 
> 
> IMG_20150117_161954.jpg 1491k .jpg file


What are you using to put it under 'full load'? I am guessing you are not using the Prime95 blend test because those temps seem low to me.
I misread something somehow. Those temps are good I think.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Unplug literally everything except the pump, turn the PSU OFF then take your 24-pin cable and bridge the 4th and 5th pins of the 24-pin cable with something metal like this (count to 4th and 5th pin from left to right on the top row of pins with the little clip facing up) -
> 
> This lets you power on the PSU without anything plugged in except the pump. If you do a leak test with power applied to all your components, any leaks could possible cause a short and ruin your stuff.


Thanks for that I'm on mobile and it has issues putting pictures from here







I would use wire though no chance of metal touching metal case that way


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Thanks for that I'm on mobile and it has issues putting pictures from here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would use wire though no chance of metal touching metal case that way


No problem! The reason explained it as bridging the 4th and 5th pin is because his PSU does not have colored wires as far as I can tell from pictures on EVGA and Newegg sites.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> No problem! The reason explained it as bridging the 4th and 5th pin is because his PSU does not have colored wires as far as I can tell from pictures on EVGA and Newegg sites.


that's odd...I've never had one that wasn't colored at the plug


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> You want the air trapped in the res, so you can bleed it. But you need coolant to displace that air. As i said, I found it easier to add a line onto the fill port, then the loop will pull fluid from that line as you open the bleed screw. Just hold the line higher than the res and let gravity do the work. (Keep the line full of fluid) You will need to cap the fill line afterwards some how. Thats how I beat the air bubble beast, there might be other ways, but this worked great for me.


What exactly do you mean by 'bleed screw'? I want to try adding a line to the fill port when I have to re-fill my loop when I get my GPU block.


----------



## mauinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There could well be huge disparities caused by MB voltage settings and handling, as well as power saving features. This will cause dramatic differences in idle temps. This is one of the big reasons that no one talks about (or should talk about) idle temps.
> 
> As for P95....do we know if the OP is using a 4690K? If he is, then those 90+ temps are theoretically "normal" since P95 makes many DC chips temps go through the roof. I am guessing it is judging by the other temps.
> 
> If the AIDA run is CPU or CPU+FPU, these temps look perfectly solid.


Yes it's a DC 4690k! P95 does make the chip hit the 90's but all other stress tests done so far including Aida64 (4 hours of it) stable 60/65 celsius @ 1.248v
My idle temps seem a little bit high compared to what I've read on this thread and Prime95 scares me lol
I'm new to all this so I'm worried I might have messed up Tim(gelid extreme) application or quantity or even mounting the block that didn't go as smooth as I would've liked .
Prime95 Blend also shares the same results as Aida64.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauinho*
> 
> Yes it's a DC 4690k! P95 does make the chip hit the 90's but all other stress tests done so far including Aida64 (4 hours of it) stable 60/65 celsius @ 1.248v
> My idle temps seem a little bit high compared to what I've read on this thread and Prime95 scares me lol
> I'm new to all this so I'm worried I might have messed up Tim(gelid extreme) application or quantity or even mounting the block that didn't go as smooth as I would've liked .
> Prime95 Blend also shares the same results as Aida64.


In short, all is as it should be. There is a known issue with P95 on Devil's Canyon chips, it should not be used on them.

Your idle temps are completely normal if your BIOS is setup in a manner that your CPU is not downclocking and undervolting at idle. Your AIDA and Blend temps are good for your clock and voltage.

In other words, don't worry. You did everything right in the end.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> jumping is very easy you take a piece of wire and take the 24 pin connector and place one end into the pin socket of the green wire [there is only one green] and the other end of the wire to the black ground right beside it this tricks the psu into thinking the 24 pin is connected to the motherboard as it won't run on its own without this...you can leave all the leads connected to the psu and disconnect them on other end this ensures only the psu and the pump are powered...meaning if it leaks there isn't any electricity going through the components if they get wet...less chance of short circuit etc...


I have no wires though







. Know where to get some relatively cheap? :|


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Unplug literally everything except the pump, turn the PSU OFF then take your 24-pin cable and bridge the 4th and 5th pins of the 24-pin cable with something metal like this (count to 4th and 5th pin from left to right on the top row of pins with the little clip facing up) -
> 
> This lets you power on the PSU without anything plugged in except the pump. If you do a leak test with power applied to all your components, any leaks could possible cause a short and ruin your stuff.


Ohh thank you! I could do that with a paper clip--would I have to cut the paperclip--and I'm assuming it doesn't have to be plugged into the motherboard at all? Like you said only the pump is plugged and then do the test?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> No problem! The reason explained it as bridging the 4th and 5th pin is because his PSU does not have colored wires as far as I can tell from pictures on EVGA and Newegg sites.


Yeah it's sleeved...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Thanks for that I'm on mobile and it has issues putting pictures from here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would use wire though no chance of metal touching metal case that way


And I have no wires on hand nor a paper clip as far as I can tell... but maybe I can find a paperclip more so than a wire.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's odd...I've never had one that wasn't colored at the plug


Idk it's sleeved so I can't see anything of the wires they're all black as far as I can tell.


----------



## mauinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> In short, all is as it should be. There is a known issue with P95 on Devil's Canyon chips, it should not be used on them.
> 
> Your idle temps are completely normal if your BIOS is setup in a manner that your CPU is not downclocking and undervolting at idle. Your AIDA and Blend temps are good for your clock and voltage.
> 
> In other words, don't worry. You did everything right in the end.


Following your tip enabled all power saving option in Bios and now idle temps dropped to 23/26C, impressive considering all my fans are on silent profiles, I can barely hear the machine now.
It was worth the wait







thanks guys for the replies and thanks Swiftech


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ohh thank you! I could do that with a paper clip--would I have to cut the paperclip--and I'm assuming it doesn't have to be plugged into the motherboard at all? Like you said only the pump is plugged and then do the test?


Exactly.


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> What exactly do you mean by 'bleed screw'? I want to try adding a line to the fill port when I have to re-fill my loop when I get my GPU block.


The little black screw at the top of the resivoir window is the bleed screw. Be care with its threads as they are fine and screw into the acrylic window, before the screw comes all the way out, it will start to leak the trapped air ( youll see little bubbles forming around the threads when the air is escaping.


----------



## wes1099

Here are the pics needed to join the club. Now I need to go fill out the form. I know the bottom tube is a little long, I left extra length so I can trim to size when I get my GPU block.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> The little black screw at the top of the resivoir window is the bleed screw. Be care with its threads as they are fine and screw into the acrylic window, before the screw comes all the way out, it will start to leak the trapped air ( youll see little bubbles forming around the threads when the air is escaping.


So do I just tilt the unit until the air is around he screw and then loosen it a little until the air goes away? And should I do this with the unit powered on? I am supposed to have the fill port closed while doing this right?


----------



## BrotherJoseph

So my second H220 pump finally died after almost two years of constant issues.
Since Swiftech hasn't gotten back to me, I might buy a Darkside D5 Combo.
I want to use the H220 as a CPU block, I read somewhere that people recommended reversing the inlet/outlet for using a separate pump. Anyone have info on this?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I would jump it if I knew how to haha but sadly I don't know how to so was wondering if illing the power from the psu would work just as well? I mean so what do I do exactly.. just put paper towels around everything and make sure it's covered and then hook everything up properly and turn it on and leave it for a couple hours?
> 
> XD. You could leak test with only the 24pin connected and the pump connected--without the head connected to the cpu--or the ramsticks in? Haven't mounted the swiftech at all lol... XD. I'm not too inclined to stand for an hour holding it nor staring at it for 3 hours haha...
> 
> 
> 
> jumping is very easy you take a piece of wire and take the 24 pin connector and place one end into the pin socket of the green wire [there is only one green] and the other end of the wire to the black ground right beside it this tricks the psu into thinking the 24 pin is connected to the motherboard as it won't run on its own without this...you can leave all the leads connected to the psu and disconnect them on other end this ensures only the psu and the pump are powered...meaning if it leaks there isn't any electricity going through the components if they get wet...less chance of short circuit etc...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So a leak test is recommended but I'm unsure how to jump it exactly... If I don't jump it but instead just turn it on could I cut the power from the main psu on the back? I have an EVGA Supernova 1200 p2 psu and I can turn it on in eco mode. Am i supposed to hold it while leak testing? I'm an leak test noob lol...
> 
> I'm assuming at least all the minimum components need to be connected for the computer to start in order to leak test?
> 
> 
> 
> Unplug literally everything except the pump, turn the PSU OFF then take your 24-pin cable and bridge the 4th and 5th pins of the 24-pin cable with something metal like this (count to 4th and 5th pin from left to right on the top row of pins with the little clip facing up) -
> 
> This lets you power on the PSU without anything plugged in except the pump. If you do a leak test with power applied to all your components, any leaks could possible cause a short and ruin your stuff.
Click to expand...

if you plan on doing this over night i also recommend one fan and please note you do this at your own risk ( have to say it sorry ) but there is next to zero risk on doing this, you just dont want to short 5vsb to pson ( shouldnt cause issue though ) !

you want to short pson ( green ) to any ground easiest way when the wires are all black is to face the tab up ( toward you ) with the wires going away from you ( like the pic ) from the left side ( on the top ) count to pins 4 and 5 and short together
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> No problem! The reason explained it as bridging the 4th and 5th pin is because his PSU does not have colored wires as far as I can tell from pictures on EVGA and Newegg sites.
> 
> 
> 
> that's odd...I've never had one that wasn't colored at the plug
Click to expand...

new fad all black wires
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> So my second H220 pump finally died after almost two years of constant issues.
> Since Swiftech hasn't gotten back to me, I might buy a Darkside D5 Combo.
> I want to use the H220 as a CPU block, I read somewhere that people recommended reversing the inlet/outlet for using a separate pump. Anyone have info on this?


have you pmed @BramSLI1


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrotherJoseph*
> 
> So my second H220 pump finally died after almost two years of constant issues.
> Since Swiftech hasn't gotten back to me, I might buy a Darkside D5 Combo.
> I want to use the H220 as a CPU block, I read somewhere that people recommended reversing the inlet/outlet for using a separate pump. Anyone have info on this?


can i assume your second one wasn't of the newest revision(the one with the dedicated sata plug on the pump/block)


----------



## BrotherJoseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> can i assume your second one wasn't of the newest revision(the one with the dedicated sata plug on the pump/block)


Yeah, it's the original design.


----------



## wes1099

Between Bitspower and Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings does the extra $3 for a Bitspower fitting get my anything?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> can i assume your second one wasn't of the newest revision(the one with the dedicated sata plug on the pump/block)


Regarding the H220-X, the newer version (the one with the matte tubing) has the pump SATA power plug permanently connected to the pump itself (without any plugs), right?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Regarding the H220-X, the newer version (the one with the matte tubing) has the pump SATA power plug permanently connected to the pump itself (without any plugs), right?


i myself dont' know about the different revisions the h220x has gone through.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Between Bitspower and Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings does the extra $3 for a Bitspower fitting get my anything?


The only thing it gets you is a slightly smaller bank account.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The only thing it gets you is a slightly smaller bank account.


That is what I figured.


----------



## michaelius

Stupid question but can you use H220/240-X series in both horizontal and vertical orientation ?

Also is this the same thing as H2x0 series (obviously in 1x140mm size) but without cpu block and tubing ?

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Stupid question but can you use H220/240-X series in both horizontal and vertical orientation ?
> 
> Also is this the same thing as H2x0 series (obviously in 1x140mm size) but without cpu block and tubing ?
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx


The MCR140-X is the same MCP30 pump and res used in the H220-X and H240-X.

On your other question......


----------



## psyclist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> So do I just tilt the unit until the air is around he screw and then loosen it a little until the air goes away? And should I do this with the unit powered on? I am supposed to have the fill port closed while doing this right?


Read back through my previous posts and it explains how it was done.


----------



## michaelius

Thank You.

How noisy is MCP30 compared to normal fans ?

I never had water cooling and the whole idea always seemed way too complicated for me to bother but with Swiftech bringing 3in1 combos it seems like building my own loop got really easy.

I currently have Phanteks Evolve case with i5 4690k cooled by Phanteks TC-14PE plus MSI Gaming gtx 770 (but I have ordered 970 comming soon and will be upgrading to big maxwell when funds allow it)

CPU cooling is good but gpu get's rather hot in this configuration.

Would it make sense to get:

MCR140-X + fullcover block for GPU only ?

Or since it's around 70 euro more expensive maybe H220-X/H-240X + GPU block and cool both cpu and gpu with it ?

Also I've got space in case for one additional 240 radiator (maybe even 280) if it will be needed.

And final question If I ever go for maximum expansion would MCP30 be enough for H220+additional radiator + cpu block + 2 gpu blocks ?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Stupid question but can you use H220/240-X series in both horizontal and vertical orientation ?
> 
> Also is this the same thing as H2x0 series (obviously in 1x140mm size) but without cpu block and tubing ?
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCR140-X.aspx


Anything except upside down is fine.

EDIT: ciarlatano beat me to the answer and I didn't see it because I did not have the page refreshed.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Read back through my previous posts and it explains how it was done.


Ok, I think I got it now. Hopefully I am able to reach the fill port through the optical bays so I can attach a fill line. Thanks for the help.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Thank You.
> 
> How noisy is MCP30 compared to normal fans ?
> 
> I never had water cooling and the whole idea always seemed way too complicated for me to bother but with Swiftech bringing 3in1 combos it seems like building my own loop got really easy.
> 
> I currently have Phanteks Evolve case with i5 4690k cooled by Phanteks TC-14PE plus MSI Gaming gtx 770 (but I have ordered 970 comming soon and will be upgrading to big maxwell when funds allow it)
> 
> CPU cooling is good but gpu get's rather hot in this configuration.
> 
> Would it make sense to get:
> 
> MCR140-X + fullcover block for GPU only ?
> 
> Or since it's around 70 euro more expensive maybe H220-X/H-240X + GPU block and cool both cpu and gpu with it ?
> 
> Also I've got space in case for one additional 240 radiator (maybe even 280) if it will be needed.
> 
> And final question If I ever go for maximum expansion would MCP30 be enough for H220+additional radiator + cpu block + 2 gpu blocks ?


It depends on your definition of "normal fans". But, you don't hear he MCP30 over the (very quiet) included Helix fans.

If you can afford to do the H240-X plus full cover, definitely go for it. The H220-X is too small to be efficient for CPU+GPU, but the 240 will handle a CPU + GPU better than most assume. Considering the 970 is a very easy to cool card, this setup should work out nicely. You could expect similar CPU temps to your 14PE (possibly a couple of degrees higher or lower) but a huge improvement on GPU temps. You can always add another 240mm rad should you desire.

The MCP30 can do dual GPU + two rads + CPU pretty well. Personally, I wouldn't go much beyond that with the MCP30.


----------



## michaelius

I currently have:

4x140mm fan up to 850 rpm at load
1x200mm fan up to 450 rpm


----------



## ZC4065

Finally it arrived! Loving it so far, almost silent with two SP120 fans to replace stocks.

I have what can only be described as a quite unstable CPU, hard to get a low temp overclock past 4.2GHz, and yet at 4.4GHz @ 1.28V 100% load it's sitting at 72C which is amazing compared to the sky high temps!

Now to figure out how to fit 360mm of radiator space to accommodate the MSI 7990 into the loop.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally it arrived! Loving it so far, almost silent with two SP120 fans to replace stocks.
> 
> I have what can only be described as a quite unstable CPU, hard to get a low temp overclock past 4.2GHz, and yet at 4.4GHz @ 1.28V 100% load it's sitting at 72C which is amazing compared to the sky high temps!
> 
> Now to figure out how to fit 360mm of radiator space to accommodate the MSI 7990 into the loop.


You don't really need 360mm more radiator capacity just adding one GPU. Another 240mm or a 280mm would be plenty of cooling capacity. If you got rid of those HDD trays you could put a rad in the front and mount your drives in the optical bays.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> You don't really need 360mm more radiator capacity just adding one GPU. Another 240mm or a 280mm would be plenty of cooling capacity. If you got rid of those HDD trays you could put a rad in the front and mount your drives in the optical bays.


The main problem is that it's dual GPU, and pretty damn hot. The guideline is 120mm per GPU plus 120mm excess.


----------



## deme

Why did they change the tubing on the H220-X?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The main problem is that it's dual GPU, and pretty damn hot. The guideline is 120mm per GPU plus 120mm excess.


I cool my 7970 and i7-3770k with only a MCR120-QP120mm(34mm thick) and 240mm(29mm thick) and my CPU and GPU are pretty much ridiculously cool. Adding another 7970 core(to make the 7970 to a 7990) doesn't really warrant a need to have 240mm radiator space more on top of my load.

If you want your drive bays, I would personally do a 120mm back(IDK if possible) and 140mm bottom, else try to put the largest radiator you could use in the front.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Why did they change the tubing on the H220-X?


Did they? It's 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD, it's decent tubing. Going to replace it for white of the same type when I expand.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Why did they change the tubing on the H220-X?


We're using rubber tubing now due to issues with plasticizer with the old tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Did they? It's 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD, it's decent tubing. Going to replace it for white of the same type when I expand.


Just keep in mind that you're taking the risk of having your tubing plasticize and this can potentially clog your loop over time.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Just keep in mind that you're taking the risk of having your tubing plasticize and this can potentially clog your loop over time.


Is the white tubing from your store not rubber?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Is the white tubing from your store not rubber?


No, at this time the only rubber tubing that you can get is neoprene. We're not yet selling the rubber tubing that comes with these kits, but we will be shortly. I don't think you can make a rubber tubing in anything other than matte black.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, at this time the only rubber tubing that you can get is neoprene. We're not yet selling the rubber tubing that comes with these kits, but we will be shortly. I don't think you can make a rubber tubing in anything other than matte black.


Well I won't be doing this until I get a little money sorted! SO black tubing it is then.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The main problem is that it's dual GPU, and pretty damn hot. The guideline is 120mm per GPU plus 120mm excess.


Oh it's a dual GPU. Well, you could add a 120mm rad in the back along with a 240mm where the HDD cages are.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Oh it's a dual GPU. Well, you could add a 120mm rad in the back along with a 240mm where the HDD cages are.


Sadly there isn't enough room between the cages and the front mesh to fit the fans and a radiator, and I quite like having some HDD space! Considering getting 2 140mm rads and one 120mm rad on the front, taking one of the cages out.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're using rubber tubing now due to issues with plasticizer with the old tubing.
> Just keep in mind that you're taking the risk of having your tubing plasticize and this can potentially clog your loop over time.


So would my Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing plasticize?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> So would my Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing plasticize?


From reading what others have had to say bout that tubing and others, the only way to ensure that you wont have issues with plasticizer is to go with rubber tubing or hard-line tubing such as acrylic.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From reading what others have had to say bout that tubing and others, the only way to ensure that you wont have issues with plasticizer is to go with rubber tubing or hard-line tubing such as acrylic.


What exactly is it that the tubing reacts to that gives it issues with plasticizer? My loop just has distilled water with two drops of PT nuke biocide.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> What exactly is it that the tubing reacts to that gives it issues with plasticizer? My loop just has distilled water with two drops of PT nuke biocide.


Probably the acid content in the coolent


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> What exactly is it that the tubing reacts to that gives it issues with plasticizer? My loop just has distilled water with two drops of PT nuke biocide.


It's what makes the vinyl tubing flexible that begins to leach plasticizer when in contact with water. That's at least what I've been able to discover from reading and researching it. Just Google "plasticizer" and "issues with plasticizer in liquid cooling" and you'll find out more about it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're using rubber tubing now due to issues with plasticizer with the old tubing.
> Just keep in mind that you're taking the risk of having your tubing plasticize and this can potentially clog your loop over time.


And you also changed the connection type of the SATA cable to the pump itself, right?

Were you already able to confirm the cause of the acrylic cracks that users are recently experiencing?


----------



## mistax

bryan i sent you an updated email regarding my linx and ibt test at stock voltage. I'm still confused on how people are getting subb 60 on prime 95 FFT with a stock 4.4 4790k. Mine is sitting at 80-85 while being undervolted to 1.13


----------



## Dudewitbow

I get sub 60 because my cpu is delidded and has applied Coollaboratory liquid pro on the die. With any chip, it can resort to luck of the IHS draw if the mount is appropriate.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> bryan i sent you an updated email regarding my linx and ibt test at stock voltage. I'm still confused on how people are getting subb 60 on prime 95 FFT with a stock 4.4 4790k. Mine is sitting at 80-85 while being undervolted to 1.13


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I get sub 60 because my cpu is delidded and has applied Coollaboratory liquid pro on the die. With any chip, it can resort to luck of the IHS draw if the mount is appropriate.


I think this answers a lot of questions concerning temperature discrepancies that customers have been talking about. A delidded processor is going to be capable of much lower temperatures at the higher clock speeds because of the improved TIM joint ( contact between the CPU, thermal paste, and the water block or heat sink). Thanks for providing this information.


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I get sub 60 because my cpu is delidded and has applied Coollaboratory liquid pro on the die. With any chip, it can resort to luck of the IHS draw if the mount is appropriate.[/quot
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I think this answers a lot of questions concerning temperature discrepancies that customers have been talking about. A delidded processor is going to be capable of much lower temperatures at the higher clock speeds because of the improved TIM joint ( contact between the CPU, thermal paste, and the water block or heat sink). Thanks for providing this information.
> 
> 
> 
> alright, thank you so much. That was the issue i was trying to find out if i just landed a terrible chip with bad contacts and needed to be delid since after multiple attempts at reseatting the cpu block didn't yield any temperature improvement, but a undervolt drop my temperatures a lot.
Click to expand...


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're using rubber tubing now due to issues with plasticizer with the old tubing.


Thank you for your reply Mr. Bryan.
So does this affect all users with the old tubing? Do we have to change the tubes?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> bryan i sent you an updated email regarding my linx and ibt test at stock voltage. I'm still confused on how people are getting subb 60 on prime 95 FFT with a stock 4.4 4790k. Mine is sitting at 80-85 while being undervolted to 1.13


It is actually normal for Prime95 small FFTs to get the 4790k and 4690k's strangely warm. Delidding will also contribute to lower temps as mentioned previously.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And you also changed the connection type of the SATA cable to the pump itself, right?
> 
> Were you already able to confirm the cause of the acrylic cracks that users are recently experiencing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Regarding the H220-X, the newer version (the one with the matte tubing) has the pump SATA power plug permanently connected to the pump itself (without any plugs), right?


Bryan, in case you've missed these?


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Any word when the H240-X may become available in the US (amazon, swiftech site, others)? Been keeping an eye out for this for like 2 months and no one seems to have it in stock


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> Any word when the H240-X may become available in the US (amazon, swiftech site, others)? Been keeping an eye out for this for like 2 months and no one seems to have it in stock


NCIX had 150 of them about a month ago but they sold out within a week.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=102715


----------



## Zer0CoolX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> NCIX had 150 of them about a month ago but they sold out within a week.
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=102715


Yea i checked them last night says expect 3-6 weeks...

Is this a supply issue, demand issue, or something else (in general not at NCIX)?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You do void warranty, mind you. Just keep an eye on the two washers and unscrews the 4 screws at the bottom such that the pump is at the lowest point and can be pulled down. Then reverse the process with the MCP50X. Check out my review in the sig below for more info.
> 
> The MCP50X at full speed is louder than both fans, but only just. Slow it down a bit and it gets a lot quieter.


I voided my warranty long ago anyways, so Im not worried. But I guess what Im asking is will I be using the stock top from the MCP50X or not? Im just wondering if I can finally get rid of the G 1/4 adapter that I currently have to use on my setup. I will have to look for your review in the signature.

Also, the h220x stock pump runs at a very low rpm most of the time so the MCP50X will also do the same. That means its going to stay fairly quiet. I was worried that this thing was going to be loud at idle and whining when it kicked up. But Im glad to hear its about the same db as the fans.


----------



## VSG

Nah, it's a straight swap out for the pump. No need to use the top of the mcp50x.


----------



## ZC4065

If I wanted to add a GTX 970 to the loop, how much radiator would that require?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If I wanted to add a GTX 970 to the loop, how much radiator would that require?


You would probably be fine with another 140 (or maybe two).


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zer0CoolX*
> 
> Yea i checked them last night says expect 3-6 weeks...
> 
> Is this a supply issue, demand issue, or something else (in general not at NCIX)?


you can always get the Swiftech H140-X there are 46 available in stock on frozencpu site


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If I wanted to add a GTX 970 to the loop, how much radiator would that require?


An extra 140 rad, pretty much. If you want even cooler temps (not by much, mind you), go for another 240. But after this point, diminishing returns kick in pretty hard considering Maxwell runs pretty darn cool.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> An extra 140 rad, pretty much. If you want even cooler temps (not by much, mind you), go for another 240. But after this point, diminishing returns kick in pretty hard considering Maxwell runs pretty darn cool.


Seems a lot more reasonable than the 360mm I need for my 7990!


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all can anybody tell me if we can hook the H220X up to a fan controller instead of using PWM splitter or using it in conjunction wit it? Something like

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997078&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Controller+Panels-_-N82E16811997078&gclid=CjwKEAiAlvilBRC5ueCzkpXb4kgSJADxop1B7FSOQILxoMDcFs6owRS3GJ2r05M0avHxrzMhvdJAKxoCsmjw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks in advance.


----------



## VSG

You can, but that isn't a PWM controller. Look at something like the Aquacomputer Aquaero or Zalman ZM-MFC1


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can, but that isn't a PWM controller. Look at something like the Aquacomputer Aquaero or Zalman ZM-MFC1


I love the look of the Aquacomter Aquaero but the price is crazy!! The Zalman i would like something that gave me the temps. I'll do some searching in the meantime but if anybody else has any ideas let me know.


----------



## demitrisln

What about Zalman ZM-MFC3 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9427/bus-203/Zalman_ZM-MFC3_Multi-Fan_Speed_Controller_Temp_Monitor.html?tl=g34c17s240#blank)


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can, but that isn't a PWM controller. Look at something like the Aquacomputer Aquaero or Zalman ZM-MFC1


What about this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NZXT-AC-SEN-3-B1-Sentry-3-5-4-Touch-Screen-Fan-Controller-/381043266700?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b7f2d48c

I believe it work since it says handles PWM....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It doesn't 'handle pwm'. All it's saying is that it has 4-pin headers so you can connect pwm fans if you wanted to, but you'd be voltage controlling them with that controller.


----------



## psyclist

Quick Question, does the pump regulate speed if hooked up in the traditional way? is that the RPM my MB is reporting? So basically the pump and included PWM fans are linked in speed unless I use that splitter hooked up to another header right?


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> Quick Question, does the pump regulate speed if hooked up in the traditional way? is that the RPM my MB is reporting? So basically the pump and included PWM fans are linked in speed unless I use that splitter hooked up to another header right?


If you are using the splitter, the pump and the fans will work on their own, separate curves based off of the pwm header. The rpms will be reported through the header so if you are using CPUID HWMonitor, that is what you are seeing in the CPUFANIN section. I just want to clarify that the pumps and fans do not run at the same rpm. I have the original h220 and its been going great for well over a year.


----------



## Duke976

I would like to *thank Bryan and the entire team of Swiftech* for sending me the replacement O-Rings and the Fill Port Plug for my aging H220. After the yearly cleanup those O-Rings became frail, *thanks again to the entire Swiftech team for the superb customer service.







* You now have a customer for life


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you plan on doing this over night i also recommend one fan and please note you do this at your own risk ( have to say it sorry ) but there is next to zero risk on doing this, you just dont want to short 5vsb to pson ( shouldnt cause issue though ) !
> 
> you want to short pson ( green ) to any ground easiest way when the wires are all black is to face the tab up ( toward you ) with the wires going away from you ( like the pic ) from the left side ( on the top ) count to pins 4 and 5 and short together
> new fad all black wires
> have you pmed @BramSLI1


I'm guessing after all thus is done I turn on the PSU and then the switch should turn on correct?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> An extra 140 rad, pretty much. If you want even cooler temps (not by much, mind you), go for another 240. But after this point, diminishing returns kick in pretty hard considering Maxwell runs pretty darn cool.
> 
> 
> 
> Seems a lot more reasonable than the 360mm I need for my 7990!
Click to expand...

first you are comparing a lower end GPU ( not talking trash! ) then the gpu you have ( of its time )

the 970 is what 3 or 4 generations ahead of the 7990 but you have the 980 and 990 ( if / when it comes out )

you are comparing that to a DUAL GPU card and the TOP end card of its gen ( 2x 7970 cores )

this is apples to oranges

also diminishing returns does not kick in, its always there, you will always get less and less out the more you add, is it worth it? that is up to the end user
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can, but that isn't a PWM controller. Look at something like the Aquacomputer Aquaero or Zalman ZM-MFC1
> 
> 
> 
> What about this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NZXT-AC-SEN-3-B1-Sentry-3-5-4-Touch-Screen-Fan-Controller-/381043266700?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b7f2d48c
> 
> I believe it work since it says handles PWM....
Click to expand...

anything will " handle " PWM however most will do that by voltage control which is not good

i would recommend the aquaero they do sell the aqlt, which is not alot

but you will need to cool it down as well ( speak with the aquaero club for more info ) if you use several fans per channel as they dont have the improvements the 6 has

also the LT only has 1 pwm controller


----------



## erso44

When do we get H240-X in Europe?


----------



## broncogr

The H240-X has already been released to Europe in very limited quantities last week.
I got mine delivered yesterday from highflow.nl which is currently again out of stock.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> The H240-X has already been released to Europe in very limited quantities last week.
> I got mine delivered yesterday from highflow.nl which is currently again out of stock.


some people say it´s ONLY released in Netherland ? Is that true?


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> some people say it´s ONLY released in Netherland ? Is that true?


It cant be released only in NL as they also get their units from the European distributor in France.
It might be the case that the first shipment was mostly allocated to Highflow.


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> The H240-X has already been released to Europe in very limited quantities last week.
> I got mine delivered yesterday from highflow.nl which is currently again out of stock.


Check coolerkit.com, it is in stock there afaik. I bought my H220-X from these guys. They are very helpful and they shipped mine to GR with reasonable delivery charges compared to Highflow.


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Check coolerkit.com, it is in stock there afaik. I bought my H220-X from these guys. They are very helpful and they shipped mine to GR with reasonable delivery charges compared to Highflow.


Delivery charges might be more reasonable but price is +20 euros..
Indeed it shows as in-stock on Coolerkit's site


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broncogr*
> 
> Delivery charges might be more reasonable but price is +20 euros..
> Indeed it shows as in-stock on Coolerkit's site


Indeed, it is more expensive. The weird thing is that the H220-X is much cheaper than the H240-X, even compared to Highflow's H220-X price...

Well, you can wait for Highflow to stock it again, I don't think it will be too long.


----------



## broncogr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Indeed, it is more expensive. The weird thing is that the H220-X is much cheaper than the H240-X, even compared to Highflow's H220-X price...
> 
> Well, you can wait for Highflow to stock it again, I don't think it will be too long.


If I hadn't already got it I wouldn't wait to be honest but get it.
As the h240-x is in limited supply even in the States one could never know when it will be available again in EU


----------



## erso44

194€...they´re kidding me....W**

so what should I get? What do you recommend me?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first you are comparing a lower end GPU ( not talking trash! ) then the gpu you have ( of its time )
> 
> the 970 is what 3 or 4 generations ahead of the 7990 but you have the 980 and 990 ( if / when it comes out )
> 
> you are comparing that to a DUAL GPU card and the TOP end card of its gen ( 2x 7970 cores )
> 
> this is apples to oranges


But what about 2x970s vs the 7990? Because even then it'd nearly be easier to cool


----------



## Swuell

Could someone tell me if I have to connect the h220-x to the cpu or just leave it when leak testing? As that's where I'm uncertain on.


----------



## VSG

Unless you have an external PWM controller, you won't be switching on the rig to be able to control the pump. So just leave it off and run at full power. You can leak test it outside the case too anyway!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Could someone tell me if I have to connect the h220-x to the cpu or just leave it when leak testing? As that's where I'm uncertain on.


it's your choice...with everything off even if you have a leak you just have to make sure everything is dry before you turn it back on...I always leak test with all hoses etc in there intended places as they won't be moved much once the PC is up and running and I know I won't stress anything mounting block etc...it's a preference thing


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Could someone tell me if I have to connect the h220-x to the cpu or just leave it when leak testing? As that's where I'm uncertain on.


Don't connect it to anything but power and test it outside the case is my advice.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Unless you have an external PWM controller, you won't be switching on the rig to be able to control the pump. So just leave it off and run at full power. You can leak test it outside the case too anyway!


Thanks, any advice on testing it outside the case like where to situate it on I guess?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it's your choice...with everything off even if you have a leak you just have to make sure everything is dry before you turn it back on...I always leak test with all hoses etc in there intended places as they won't be moved much once the PC is up and running and I know I won't stress anything mounting block etc...it's a preference thing


Ahh gotcha, yeah I wasn't quite sure. Thanks though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Don't connect it to anything but power and test it outside the case is my advice.


How would I do that--testing it outside the case that is--any advice on the best way to situate the h220-x without having to hold it?


----------



## leign

Hi! bought an H240X last weekend. That explains why I have this "less shiny" tubing on my H240X at first im concerned why it is different from the videos and pictures that I saw (with the shiny tubing on it.) good thing I saw this post. thanks for this! one more thing. Is there in any way I can purchase separately the plate cover of the water block? (the transparent covering with the swiftech logo on it) because it has a little stain on it, I dont know what is it but it annoys me in some way. Also I have this small particles inside the reservoir. im planning to finish my rig this evening so I can also test if its is working or not. been very busy this past few days in the office.


----------



## leign

Can somebody tell me about the tiny particles that is visible in my 240X reservoir? is it normal or not? purchased the unit only this weekend and haven't tested it yet until later this evening.

thanks in advance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leign*
> 
> Can somebody tell me about the tiny particles that is visible in my 240X reservoir? is it normal or not? purchased the unit only this weekend and haven't tested it yet until later this evening.
> 
> thanks in advance.


picture? Particles literally could be a bunch of things


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> picture? Particles literally could be a bunch of things


I have them too. They don't move at all so it tells me that it's just a bit of dust on the window that I need to clean off


----------



## leign

I'll be posting the pictures as soon as I got home. still at work. thanks for the reply.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leign*
> 
> I'll be posting the pictures as soon as I got home. still at work. thanks for the reply.


night shift? ouch!


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leign*
> 
> Hi! bought an H240X last weekend. That explains why I have this "less shiny" tubing on my H240X at first im concerned why it is different from the videos and pictures that I saw (with the shiny tubing on it.) good thing I saw this post. thanks for this! one more thing. Is there in any way I can purchase separately the plate cover of the water block? (the transparent covering with the swiftech logo on it) because it has a little stain on it, I dont know what is it but it annoys me in some way. Also I have this small particles inside the reservoir. im planning to finish my rig this evening so I can also test if its is working or not. been very busy this past few days in the office.


The tubing isn't shiny any more as the original plastic tubing was replaced with rubber instead, because of a problem with plasticizing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The tubing isn't shiny any more as the original plastic tubing was replaced with rubber instead, because of a problem with plasticizing.


the new tubing is I believe neoprene style which should fully eliminate plasticizer issues


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The tubing isn't shiny any more as the original plastic tubing was replaced with rubber instead, because of a problem with plasticizing.


Since plasticizing can cause problems in the AIO, shouldn't Swiftech arrange to change or send new tubing to all existing users with the old tubing?

An answer for Swiftech would be appreciated.


----------



## Gavush

Plasticizing is an issue with nearly all tubing best I could tell after a month of research, which is why I went with rigid acrylic instead. It can eventually build up on the waterblock and reduce efficiency. Solution? When you see a decrease in cooling performance that's not due to TIM or other factors, take apart your block and clean it, just like anyone else with a water cooled loop has to do from time to time. What's great about these systems is that they are actually serviceable. I don't see why they should send everyone replacement tubing because they came up with something better to offer in their current product. Would you expect that from any other manufacturer of anything? (Vehicle campaigns and recalls excluded)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Plasticizing is an issue with nearly all tubing best I could tell after a month of research, which is why I went with rigid acrylic instead. It can eventually build up on the waterblock and reduce efficiency. Solution? When you see a decrease in cooling performance that's not due to TIM or other factors, take apart your block and clean it, just like anyone else with a water cooled loop has to do from time to time. What's great about these systems is that they are actually serviceable. I don't see why they should send everyone replacement tubing because they came up with something better to offer in their current product. Would you expect that from any other manufacturer of anything? (Vehicle campaigns and recalls excluded)


neoprene rubber based tubing does not have this issue... there is no leeching as far as I know...


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Plasticizing is an issue with nearly all tubing best I could tell after a month of research, which is why I went with rigid acrylic instead. It can eventually build up on the waterblock and reduce efficiency. Solution? When you see a decrease in cooling performance that's not due to TIM or other factors, take apart your block and clean it, just like anyone else with a water cooled loop has to do from time to time. What's great about these systems is that they are actually serviceable. I don't see why they should send everyone replacement tubing because they came up with something better to offer in their current product. Would you expect that from any other manufacturer of anything? (Vehicle campaigns and recalls excluded)


You are correct but if I am not wrong, they are sold as AIO's that can be expanded and not as custom loops. As you mention, custom loops need cleaning from time to time instead of AIO"s. I have not seen anyone take apart -for example- his H100i to clean it. Correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> You are correct but if I am not wrong, they are sold as AIO's that can be expanded and not as custom loops. As you mention, custom loops need cleaning from time to time instead of AIO"s. I have not seen anyone take apart -for example- his H100i to clean it. Correct me if I am wrong.


this is because the h 100 isn't designed to be expanded or taken apart...the h2xx series is an all-in-one that is designed to be expanded and taken apart if you wish







but people have taken them apart quite a bit.normally to.fix issues that are out of warranty but...it's not easy to do like the h series


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> You are correct but if I am not wrong, they are sold as AIO's that can be expanded and not as custom loops. As you mention, custom loops need cleaning from time to time instead of AIO"s. I have not seen anyone take apart -for example- his H100i to clean it. Correct me if I am wrong.


PM me about this please.


----------



## kevindd992002

I've been checking the temps of my previous setup (2500K stock with Thermalright Silver Arrow) and I got these:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1136149/i5-2500k-temps-not-detected-by-occt/10#post_15267539

That's just about at the high 50's at stock speed and voltage.

Now with my 2600K and Swiftech H220-X, I get this: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/78/7847e392_Untitled.jpeg

That's about 70C at stock speed and voltage.

Does that seem normal? Isn't that too hot for watercooling? I mean they're both at their stock voltage and even though I know those are different voltages, they would be very near each other for sure.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I've been checking the temps of my previous setup (2500K stock with Thermalright Silver Arrow) and I got these:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1136149/i5-2500k-temps-not-detected-by-occt/10#post_15267539
> 
> That's just about at the high 50's at stock speed and voltage.
> 
> Now with my 2600K and Swiftech H220-X, I get this: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/78/7847e392_Untitled.jpeg
> 
> That's about 70C at stock speed and voltage.
> 
> Does that seem normal? Isn't that too hot for watercooling? I mean they're both at their stock voltage and even though I know those are different voltages, they would be very near each other for sure.


It could just be a poorly applied IHS. That would be my guess at least. Temperatures between these chips can vary widely and you may simply have lost the silicone lottery with this one.


----------



## sifalio

Hello Guys!

I would like to know if Swiftech 240x is better than my corsair h110

Thanks!


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I've been checking the temps of my previous setup (2500K stock with Thermalright Silver Arrow) and I got these:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1136149/i5-2500k-temps-not-detected-by-occt/10#post_15267539
> 
> That's just about at the high 50's at stock speed and voltage.
> 
> Now with my 2600K and Swiftech H220-X, I get this: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/78/7847e392_Untitled.jpeg
> 
> That's about 70C at stock speed and voltage.
> 
> Does that seem normal? Isn't that too hot for watercooling? I mean they're both at their stock voltage and even though I know those are different voltages, they would be very near each other for sure.


Did you tighten the CPU block in the x pattern? I had to redo mine like that and it made a huge difference!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It could just be a poorly applied IHS. That would be my guess at least. Temperatures between these chips can vary widely and you may simply have lost the silicone lottery with this one.


You mean TIM? The thing is that I'm reading that 10C difference between the 2500K and 2600K is normal because of HT. Could that be the reason? Is the H220-X any better than the Silver Arrow in terms of temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Did you tighten the CPU block in the x pattern? I had to redo mine like that and it made a huge difference!


I did tighten the CPU block using the x pattern, yes. I'm very used to handling heatsinks, I've had multiple reseats that I can't keep track of


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You mean TIM?


he means the ihs or the bonds between the die and the heat plate that makes up the top of the processor...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> he means the ihs or the bonds between the die and the heat plate that makes up the top of the processor...


Ah, got it. But if that's the case, wouldn't I be experiencing huge variance between the temps of each core?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Plasticizing is an issue with nearly all tubing best I could tell after a month of research, which is why I went with rigid acrylic instead. It can eventually build up on the waterblock and reduce efficiency. Solution? When you see a decrease in cooling performance that's not due to TIM or other factors, take apart your block and clean it, just like anyone else with a water cooled loop has to do from time to time. What's great about these systems is that they are actually serviceable. I don't see why they should send everyone replacement tubing because they came up with something better to offer in their current product. Would you expect that from any other manufacturer of anything? (Vehicle campaigns and recalls excluded)


agreed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Plasticizing is an issue with nearly all tubing best I could tell after a month of research, which is why I went with rigid acrylic instead. It can eventually build up on the waterblock and reduce efficiency. Solution? When you see a decrease in cooling performance that's not due to TIM or other factors, take apart your block and clean it, just like anyone else with a water cooled loop has to do from time to time. What's great about these systems is that they are actually serviceable. I don't see why they should send everyone replacement tubing because they came up with something better to offer in their current product. Would you expect that from any other manufacturer of anything? (Vehicle campaigns and recalls excluded)
> 
> 
> 
> neoprene rubber based tubing does not have this issue... there is no leeching as far as I know...
Click to expand...

correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sifalio*
> 
> Hello Guys!
> 
> I would like to know if Swiftech 240x is better than my corsair h110
> 
> Thanks!


by far look at the reviews !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It could just be a poorly applied IHS. That would be my guess at least. Temperatures between these chips can vary widely and you may simply have lost the silicone lottery with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> You mean TIM? The thing is that I'm reading that 10C difference between the 2500K and 2600K is normal because of HT. Could that be the reason? Is the H220-X any better than the Silver Arrow in terms of temps?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Did you tighten the CPU block in the x pattern? I had to redo mine like that and it made a huge difference!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did tighten the CPU block using the x pattern, yes. I'm very used to handling heatsinks, I've had multiple reseats that I can't keep track of
Click to expand...

you can no compare 2 different cpus with different coolers to compare the coolers ~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> he means the ihs or the bonds between the die and the heat plate that makes up the top of the processor...
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, got it. But if that's the case, wouldn't I be experiencing huge variance between the temps of each core?
Click to expand...

depends but not necessarily


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can no compare 2 different cpus with different coolers to compare the coolers ~
> depends but not necessarily


I agree but I was just probably expecting the H220-X to work better than the Silver Arrow by a few degrees. I'm not sure if it's working "better".


----------



## Mega Man

user the arrow on the same cpu and find out


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> user the arrow on the same cpu and find out


That would be the only way to know for certain.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all,
I was wondering if anybody had this issue and maybe a fix. I notice it when my computer goes to sleep and I start to play a game my CPU temp shows up on 3 different temp monitor software as like -165C. The individual cores show up. So when I'm playing a game that is only using like 30% of my CPU and this happens my temps on the cores go up to like 55C. I assume since the main CPU temp is showing something inaccurate it isn't telling the pump to push the water faster.... Is there a way where i can manually speed up the pump if i notice this happens?

My motherboard is a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3

Thanks


----------



## IHach418

How would the h240-x compare to a high end air cooler such as the Cryorig R1 Ultimate? Is the h240-x worth it? I'm rather paranoid of it leaking and destroying my brand new components....


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IHach418*
> 
> How would the h240-x compare to a high end air cooler such as the Cryorig R1 Ultimate? Is the h240-x worth it? I'm rather paranoid of it leaking and destroying my brand new components....


I wouldn't worry about a leak much, they are made extremely well. You can also leak test them before installation if you are concerned.

As far as is it worth it.. That depends. If you are going for extreme overclocks I would go with liquid cooling. The H-240x is amazing under load. I haven't seen a comparison to that specific cooler, but I know it out performes pretty much everything on the market right now.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all,
> I was wondering if anybody had this issue and maybe a fix. I notice it when my computer goes to sleep and I start to play a game my CPU temp shows up on 3 different temp monitor software as like -165C. The individual cores show up. So when I'm playing a game that is only using like 30% of my CPU and this happens my temps on the cores go up to like 55C. I assume since the main CPU temp is showing something inaccurate it isn't telling the pump to push the water faster.... Is there a way where i can manually speed up the pump if i notice this happens?
> 
> My motherboard is a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3
> 
> Thanks


165c would fry your chip. If you don't notice any abnormalities like slowdowns or bluescreens (which I'm sure you dont, like I said 165c would kill it) than your monitoring software is buggy.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> 165c would fry your chip. If you don't notice any abnormalities like slowdowns or bluescreens (which I'm sure you dont, like I said 165c would kill it) than your monitoring software is buggy.


Thanks for responding Fuloran. The temp actually says -165C (like really cold) The 8 cores all show an accurate temperature. Like last night it was saying CPU -165C but cores 1-8 were ranging from 50-55C at 30% CPU load. I think since the main CPU temp is saying -165C that it thinks the temp is fine and isn't pushing the water faster to cool. I tried SpeedFan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp all say CPU temp at -165C.

But I restarted my system and went into the temp software the main CPU temp said 33C so i started to play the game same thing CPU load 30% and this time the temps for the cores stayed at the 29-33C range. I think since the main CPU was showing the right temp the pump actually speed up or slowed down.....


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Thanks for responding Fuloran. The temp actually says -165C (like really cold) The 8 cores all show an accurate temperature. Like last night it was saying CPU -165C but cores 1-8 were ranging from 50-55C at 30% CPU load. I think since the main CPU temp is saying -165C that it thinks the temp is fine and isn't pushing the water faster to cool. I tried SpeedFan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp all say CPU temp at -165C.
> 
> But I restarted my system and went into the temp software the main CPU temp said 33C so i started to play the game same thing CPU load 30% and this time the temps for the cores stayed at the 29-33C range. I think since the main CPU was showing the right temp the pump actually speed up or slowed down.....


Ah ok, huh, that's strange. Looks like a reboot was needed!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Thanks for responding Fuloran. The temp actually says -165C (like really cold) The 8 cores all show an accurate temperature. Like last night it was saying CPU -165C but cores 1-8 were ranging from 50-55C at 30% CPU load. I think since the main CPU temp is saying -165C that it thinks the temp is fine and isn't pushing the water faster to cool. I tried SpeedFan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp all say CPU temp at -165C.
> 
> But I restarted my system and went into the temp software the main CPU temp said 33C so i started to play the game same thing CPU load 30% and this time the temps for the cores stayed at the 29-33C range. I think since the main CPU was showing the right temp the pump actually speed up or slowed down.....


55c is nothing to worry about...but for some reason sleep states cause all kinds of issues lately...have you tried closing and reopening the monitoring programs? Also if you are using controls on the motherboard to control speeds it might be unfixable a lot of people can never seem to get sleep states to work 100%... they can be a pain on some boards/os's....it kind of defeats the purpose of sleep if you have to restart anyway lol...I stopped using sleep hibernate and power saving features years ago...I turn my pc off if I'm gonna be away for more than an hour...with ssd and fast boot I can boot up almost as fast as I can wake from sleep and I never have an issue with sleep states that way


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Thanks for responding Fuloran. The temp actually says -165C (like really cold) The 8 cores all show an accurate temperature. Like last night it was saying CPU -165C but cores 1-8 were ranging from 50-55C at 30% CPU load. I think since the main CPU temp is saying -165C that it thinks the temp is fine and isn't pushing the water faster to cool. I tried SpeedFan, HWMonitor, and RealTemp all say CPU temp at -165C.
> 
> But I restarted my system and went into the temp software the main CPU temp said 33C so i started to play the game same thing CPU load 30% and this time the temps for the cores stayed at the 29-33C range. I think since the main CPU was showing the right temp the pump actually speed up or slowed down.....


Welcome to the wacky world of AMD temperature monitoring.....where things are done with algorithms rather than absolutes....and no one knows what the algorithm actually means.....

This isn't all that uncommon and a reboot does rectify the issue. For the life of me I don't recall the exact cause.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 55c is nothing to worry about...but for some reason sleep states cause all kinds of issues lately...have you tried closing and reopening the monitoring programs? Also if you are using controls on the motherboard to control speeds it might be unfixable a lot of people can never seem to get sleep states to work 100%... they can be a pain on some boards/os's....it kind of defeats the purpose of sleep if you have to restart anyway lol...I stopped using sleep hibernate and power saving features years ago...I turn my pc off if I'm gonna be away for more than an hour...with ssd and fast boot I can boot up almost as fast as I can wake from sleep and I never have an issue with sleep states that way


Yeah I tried to close it and reopen it but still same temps. I'm just more worried since I'm putting in a Water Cooled R9 290X and last thing I need is for that to over heat! Would be my luck... Is there any software that will manually let me speed up the pump?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Yeah I tried to close it and reopen it but still same temps. I'm just more worried since I'm putting in a Water Cooled R9 290X and last thing I need is for that to over heat! Would be my luck... Is there any software that will manually let me speed up the pump?


I know ai suite does it but thats asus boards only I'm pretty sure... Speedfan I think can do it but I'm not sure if it works on all boards...I'm sure someone here can point you to something for sure







i never have an issue with pump speed or fan speeds I run my pc like a drag car...iI run it all out or nothing


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> user the arrow on the same cpu and find out


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That would be the only way to know for certain.


I'd love to do that but unfortunately I already sold the Silver Arrow. I guess I may have to just try remounting the CPU block of my H220-X to see if it makes a difference.


----------



## ZC4065

How does the H220-X perform with LGA 2011 socket CPUs? Gonna replace my i5 4670k soon as it is acting up something serious


----------



## VSG

Just as well, if not better relatively. Liquid coolers come in their own when the heat dissipation is more.


----------



## MrMD

Dont suppose any1 knows where i could order one of of 220x to import into the UK? That wouldn't cost an absolute fortune preferably?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Dont suppose any1 knows where i could order one of of 220x to import into the UK? That wouldn't cost an absolute fortune preferably?


I ordered mine directly from the Swiftech website! The Dollar to Sterling conversion leaves you pretty happy with the price


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Dont suppose any1 knows where i could order one of of 220x to import into the UK? That wouldn't cost an absolute fortune preferably?


Try highflow.nl or coolerkit.com. Both stores are in Europe.


----------



## MrMD

WOW

only £128 including shipping.That seems incredibility cheap from coolerkit.com


----------



## kevindd992002

When I was reseating my CPU block, I did notice two air bubbles in the acrylic window of the H220X rad. How do you get rid of those without disassembling the kit itself?


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When I was reseating my CPU block, I did notice two air bubbles in the acrylic window of the H220X rad. How do you get rid of those without disassembling the kit itself?


Hey.....did you use the stock thermal paste?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Hey.....did you use the stock thermal paste?


Nope, I'm using a Prolimatech PK-1 TIM.


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> WOW
> 
> only £128 including shipping.That seems incredibility cheap from coolerkit.com


Indeed it is







. I bought mine H220-X from them.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nope, I'm using a Prolimatech PK-1 TIM.


When I first built my computer, I used the stock paste. After about 2 weeks, I wasn't happy with the temps so I switched over to Gelid. Much better results!

I made my own comparison chart.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Hey.....did you use the stock thermal paste?


Nope, I'm using a Prolimatech PK-1 TIM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> When I first built my computer, I used the stock paste. After about 2 weeks, I wasn't happy with the temps so I switched over to Gelid. Much better results!
> 
> I made my own comparison chart.


Uhm but how about the air bubbles that I was asking about?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nope, I'm using a Prolimatech PK-1 TIM.
> Uhm but how about the air bubbles that I was asking about?


if you don't have a second res or a fill port you get to unmount and remove the air by way of fillport and top off...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you don't have a second res or a fill port you get to unmount and remove the air by way of fillport and top off...


I'm not sure what you mean. Are you saying that I still have to drain the water and all? I bought the kit to use it as an AIO for now because I'm still not well-versed in watercooling though I would consider expanding this kit in the future.


----------



## mauinho

Been running my H240X for just over a week now, after much fiddling with my i5 4690k I settled with and OC of 4.6Ghz with voltage @ 1.296, I doubt I'll be able to reach much further on this chip, but it's more or less average comparing to other users reports.
The H240X has behaved quite impressive with this OC, 24/7 idle temps. 25/30C, loads temps mainly gaming 65/70C , please note I've got a phanteks enthoo pro with only the stock fans one 200mm intake and one 140mm exhaust, benchmarks temps and stress temps go from 65 to a max of 80 Celsius with prime 95 being the exception but my chip and prime don't get along well .
The silence is very welcomed on idle my machine is running on a silent fan profile and both intake and exhaust fans turn off making it nearly silent if not for my 970 very gentle humming.
While gaming things get a bit louder but not due to H240X mostly my 970 heating up has it's also OC'd, and if you own one you know it's not that loud, my PS4 was way louder.
I can't fault this kit if I was to complain about something is that I'd like to be able to change the colour of the reservoir's light and the specs of dust inside it are a bit of an eye sore but that's just nit picking.
So yeah Swiftech here's a big


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean. Are you saying that I still have to drain the water and all? I bought the kit to use it as an AIO for now because I'm still not well-versed in watercooling though I would consider expanding this kit in the future.


no time like the present to get acquainted







the preferred method is to add a barb or a comp fitting to the fillport with a length of tube connected to it and buy a stop plug for the end of the tube....Then add distilled water to the hose keeping it above the pump and rad and run the pump some use the bleed screw I'm not among them but the goal is to get the air into the tube and have only the liquid flowing through the system as air trapped can cause poor performance and annoying sounds







....Then top off the tube when the air is out and use the stop plug...some use a small diameter length of hose to go down into the fillport and help get the air out..if the air isn't running through the system it won't hurt anything but it may start to make a running water or a churning sound when the water moves around it but.i would try and get it out if you can...iI added a seperate reservoir for this reason so that if a little air from evaporation or whatever gets in there I just run it through to the second res and top it off...I'm sure Bram will be happy to help you if you need help bleeding that air out as you can do it without changing anything its just a bigger pain to do it that way


----------



## RKDxpress

Any thoughts to adding the H 140x to this thread? Or will some one start a new one? Got mine yesterday.


----------



## zila

Just finished cleaning and burping my loop. Glacer 240L w/4 Ultra Kaze fans. Not bad considering my chip is not a good one.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKDxpress*
> 
> Any thoughts to adding the H 140x to this thread? Or will some one start a new one? Got mine yesterday.


You got the H140-X how you liking it because i plan to snag one whenever i decide to build my new pc later


----------



## RKDxpress

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> You got the H140-X how you liking it because i plan to snag one whenever i decide to build my new pc later


Works great! Better than the Coolmaster seldom 120M I swaped out by a few degress. Notice it runs cooler under load with out the progressive temps I had before. 67* running prime on the second run through at 4.5 OC. Only con was mounting as the back plate wanted to fall off until I got the screws started.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKDxpress*
> 
> Works great! Better than the Coolmaster seldom 120M I swaped out by a few degress. Notice it runs cooler under load with out the progressive temps I had before. 67* running prime on the second run through at 4.5 OC. Only con was mounting as the back plate wanted to fall off until I got the screws started.


Do you have it running as exhaust at the rear of the case or how do you have yours set up?


----------



## RKDxpress

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Do you have it running as exhaust at the rear of the case or how do you have yours set up?


In at the front off my case. Had to drill mounting holes as my old case never had 140mm fans so it could use more airflow. Hose length is good and I like the swivel fittings. If I could have found a h220x or h240x I would have preferred that. But no complaints.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> no time like the present to get acquainted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the preferred method is to add a barb or a comp fitting to the fillport with a length of tube connected to it and buy a stop plug for the end of the tube....Then add distilled water to the hose keeping it above the pump and rad and run the pump some use the bleed screw I'm not among them but the goal is to get the air into the tube and have only the liquid flowing through the system as air trapped can cause poor performance and annoying sounds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....Then top off the tube when the air is out and use the stop plug...some use a small diameter length of hose to go down into the fillport and help get the air out..if the air isn't running through the system it won't hurt anything but it may start to make a running water or a churning sound when the water moves around it but.i would try and get it out if you can...iI added a seperate reservoir for this reason so that if a little air from evaporation or whatever gets in there I just run it through to the second res and top it off...I'm sure Bram will be happy to help you if you need help bleeding that air out as you can do it without changing anything its just a bigger pain to do it that way


Thanks for the input! As much as I want to try this now, I'd prefer to not disassemble it yet. But for what it's worth, thanks for the detailed explanation! I did shoot Bryan an email though.


----------



## leign

thank you all for your response. very helpful


----------



## chaozzzsg

Just got my H220X for over a week and all I can say is WOW!!! Enjoy the pics!!


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just as well, if not better relatively. Liquid coolers come in their own when the heat dissipation is more.


Exactly. I have seen people complain about idle temps because they weren't below freezing, when this thing blows everything else away under load.

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Just got my H220X for over a week and all I can say is WOW!!! Enjoy the pics!!


Nice!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Exactly. I have seen people complain about idle temps because they weren't below freezing, when this thing blows everything else away under load.
> 
> .
> Nice!


yeah the red was too much but the blue looks great imo


----------



## emsj86

Just needed to post this so peoe can see from another that swiftech Rma is good. I had a issue with my mcp50x pump. I told Bryan. I sent it out and was surprised how fast it got back to me. Less than a week and ca. To pa is far for that quick of a return. But anywyS thank you Bryan and swiftech for making the Rma process easy as having a failing part always sucks as is


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Exactly. I have seen people complain about idle temps because they weren't below freezing, when this thing blows everything else away under load.


And it is one of the strangest complaints that goes around....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And it is one of the strangest complaints that goes around....


I.think it's funny when people boast about idle temps...some chips idle lower but under load they are hotter at like voltages...unless your idle temps are really high who cares


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just needed to post this so peoe can see from another that swiftech Rma is good. I had a issue with my mcp50x pump. I told Bryan. I sent it out and was surprised how fast it got back to me. Less than a week and ca. To pa is far for that quick of a return. But anywyS thank you Bryan and swiftech for making the Rma process easy as having a failing part always sucks as is


+1 from me for Bryan and their awsome support. That's how a company should treat their customers. Well done Swiftech!


----------



## benbenkr

Hey guys.
Know how everyone has trouble removing the acrylic and color plate on the Apogee XL block? I think I just found the most dead simple, without scratching or scuffing the plates to hell when removing them.

*Use electrical tape*. Yeah, I'm not kidding.

I was trying to make the red color plate to look more blood red instead of cherry tomato red (which is orangey in hue) it comes in. So I decided to tape red electrical tapes on the plate (cheap mod!), but I then decided that the size of the tape wasn't right after sticking it on. I peeled the tape off and lo and behold, the color plate comes off too! This is like the... oh duh! moment. Why did I have to go force a tiny screwdriver to remove the plate in the first place?! While risking damage at the same time?!

Oh and all this is done with the block still mounted in the casing, nothing needs to be removed.

Electrical tape leaves no sticky residue, so that's a double plus. Just make sure to stick a few layers ontop of one another and let them sit for a while (a minute or 2), then just peel the undermost layer and the plate will come off along with the tape.
So guys, stop destroying your plates with screwdrivers or small cutters to pry them.


----------



## VSG

Excellent idea! I was using double sided carbon tape myself recently, but electrical tape is something more people would have access to.


----------



## svictorcc

I'm using the H140-X for over a week and i can say that's pretty awesome!
Much better than my old H90.
I have plans to expand it to the gtx 970 in a single loop and see what temps i can get without oc (4790k). Just waiting for the ek msi full waterblock and some tubes/coolant to arrive.


----------



## RaduZ

Sorry guys for the quick hijack, I want to install this AIO cooler and i have a quick question.

Can somone tell if I have to connect the pump to the cpu fan header? It's a 3 pin so no PWM. I was thinking of conecting both fans to the cpu fan header and the pump to a molex conector.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaduZ*
> 
> Sorry guys for the quick hijack, I want to install this AIO cooler and i have a quick question.
> 
> Can somone tell if I have to connect the pump to the cpu fan header? It's a 3 pin so no PWM. I was thinking of conecting both fans to the cpu fan header and the pump to a molex conector.


The 3pin fan conector is from the Apogee XL LED.
The 4pin is the pump conector, and SHOULD be conected to the cpu fan head.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all,

Would it be possible to take out or in addition to the Swiftech res use this one?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20612/ex-res-581/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_X4_Series_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_Fluorescent_Blue_Quad_Helix.html

If so how hard would that be?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Would it be possible to take out or in addition to the Swiftech res use this one?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20612/ex-res-581/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_X4_Series_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_Fluorescent_Blue_Quad_Helix.html
> 
> If so how hard would that be?


It would not be an issue at all to add it to the loop. You would need two additional 3/8x5/8 fittings for the new reservoir as well as a bottle of coolant to refill. You can use the existing tubing on the H220-X if it is long enough for your in case placement, or replace the tubing with new 3/8x5/8 of your choice.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It would not be an issue at all to add it to the loop. You would need two additional 3/8x5/8 fittings for the new reservoir as well as a bottle of coolant to refill. You can use the existing tubing on the H220-X if it is long enough for your in case placement, or replace the tubing with new 3/8x5/8 of your choice.


Thanks for responding.

Would I need to remove the current res or it wouldn't be a problem just adding this one? So there would be two. Does it matter where it would be placed?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Thanks for responding.
> 
> Would I need to remove the current res or it wouldn't be a problem just adding this one? So there would be two. Does it matter where it would be placed?


No, you don't need to remove the original reservoir. It isn't possible to do that anyway. This kit will work fine with an additional reservoir added to it.


----------



## RaduZ

@svictorcc It's not a Swiftech cooler, i just used the thread cause there is no owners club for this cooler and I didn't want to start a thread only for 1 easy question.

I used my comon sense anyway and pluged it into the molex, the pump had a 3 Pin header anyway so I don't think it matters.


----------



## BramSLI1

I'd appreciate it if those of you that have one of these new X kits, or are planning to purchase one, please go to the first page of the thread and fill out our survey. It's short and shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. Thank you for participating.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd appreciate it if those of you that have one of these new X kits, or are planning to purchase one, please go to the first page of the thread and fill out our survey. It's short and shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. Thank you for participating.


done


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd appreciate it if those of you that have one of these new X kits, or are planning to purchase one, please go to the first page of the thread and fill out our survey. It's short and shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. Thank you for participating.


Also did it. I say clear tube and your golden... IMO


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd appreciate it if those of you that have one of these new X kits, or are planning to purchase one, please go to the first page of the thread and fill out our survey. It's short and shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. Thank you for participating.


Done!


----------



## ydrogios

In june 2014 i bought Swiftech H220 but i haven`t used it since 14th january because i had some issues to solve.So i install the radiator and then the block.I use the hub and i press on.It started worked and water start running.I had very good temperatures and i keep working.I turn off my pc and at the next day i try to open it the pump was not working.After 3 days the pump is dead?????From the store i had bought the watercooling system here in Greece they don`t support it and i have sold the air cooler i had and i have to finish a project for my work and now i`m writing you from a netbook.Is there anything that i can do??I have talk to Bryan at Swiftech`s forum and i send him the serial number of H220 and the receipt from the store that i have bought it but nothing have happend


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd appreciate it if those of you that have one of these new X kits, or are planning to purchase one, please go to the first page of the thread and fill out our survey. It's short and shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. Thank you for participating.


Done sir done.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ydrogios*
> 
> In june 2014 i bought Swiftech H220 but i haven`t used it since 14th january because i had some issues to solve.So i install the radiator and then the block.I use the hub and i press on.It started worked and water start running.I had very good temperatures and i keep working.I turn off my pc and at the next day i try to open it the pump was not working.After 3 days the pump is dead?????From the store i had bought the watercooling system here in Greece they don`t support it and i have sold the air cooler i had and i have to finish a project for my work and now i`m writing you from a netbook.Is there anything that i can do??I have talk to Bryan at Swiftech`s forum and i send him the serial number of H220 and the receipt from the store that i have bought it but nothing have happend


I'm sorry to hear about this. It's possible that your last email didn't reach me somehow. Please email me directly at [email protected] I look forward to hearing from you soon.


----------



## svictorcc

Great survey. I did my feedback.
Here some pics of my H140-X installed in my Tt Core V1 mitx case.


----------



## Phelan

Guys, don't miss the giveaway! Finally happening, sorry for the delay!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1538348/giveaway-overclock-net-swiftech-h220x-giveaway


----------



## ZC4065

Hey guys, what size of loop would need a second pump/reservoir? Just wondering for expanding purposes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Hey guys, what size of loop would need a second pump/reservoir? Just wondering for expanding purposes.


I'd say if you're planning to add anything more than two additional radiators and two GPU water blocks that you should look at adding an additional pump. You don't really need an additional reservoir though. The one in this kit will suffice, unless you're planning to prime and bleed your loop from the second pump.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all quick question does the inlet and outlet ports on the water block matter? Attached is a picture of mine and I was wondering if this incorrect? I believe it is since i'm 90% sure i just removed the tube exactly how it came.... Let me know


----------



## VSG

No, you can freely use them as you wish.


----------



## demitrisln

Ok
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, you can freely use them as you wish.


Thanks I thought I read somewhere where somebody said it didn't matter but just wanted to make sure.

If i wanted to add another res would it be best to put it after the GPU block and then go into the Swiftech?


----------



## VSG

Doesn't matter again, put it at the best place of convenience.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Ok
> Thanks I thought I read somewhere where somebody said it didn't matter but just wanted to make sure.
> 
> If i wanted to add another res would it be best to put it after the GPU block and then go into the Swiftech?


the only time it matters is when there's a jet plate that is directional...at least that's my understanding


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Hey guys.
> Know how everyone has trouble removing the acrylic and color plate on the Apogee XL block? I think I just found the most dead simple, without scratching or scuffing the plates to hell when removing them.
> 
> *Use electrical tape*. Yeah, I'm not kidding.
> 
> I was trying to make the red color plate to look more blood red instead of cherry tomato red (which is orangey in hue) it comes in. So I decided to tape red electrical tapes on the plate (cheap mod!), but I then decided that the size of the tape wasn't right after sticking it on. I peeled the tape off and lo and behold, the color plate comes off too! This is like the... oh duh! moment. Why did I have to go force a tiny screwdriver to remove the plate in the first place?! While risking damage at the same time?!
> 
> Oh and all this is done with the block still mounted in the casing, nothing needs to be removed.
> 
> Electrical tape leaves no sticky residue, so that's a double plus. Just make sure to stick a few layers ontop of one another and let them sit for a while (a minute or 2), then just peel the undermost layer and the plate will come off along with the tape.
> So guys, stop destroying your plates with screwdrivers or small cutters to pry them.


How do you usually remove those black pins that keep the faceplate secure to the waterblock?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do you usually remove those black pins that keep the faceplate secure to the waterblock?


Peel it with my fingernail if they're long enough, zero chances of scratching the plate. Otherwise I use a thin and blunt plastic tip to slowly nudge the pins out then pull it out with my finger.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Peel it with my fingernail if they're long enough, zero chances of scratching the plate. Otherwise I use a thin and blunt plastic tip to slowly nudge the pins out then pull it out with my finger.


Got it, thanks!


----------



## Darkice

Like to ask the owner club where do you buy the h220x or h240h I have been trying to find one but it seems they are no longer sold at the usual sites and the swiftech site always says out of stock, there sales email never seems to get back to me?


----------



## skeeter123

Check the Swiftech website again. Let us know what you see...

Cheers!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkice*
> 
> Like to ask the owner club where do you buy the h220x or h240h I have been trying to find one but it seems they are no longer sold at the usual sites and the swiftech site always says out of stock, there sales email never seems to get back to me?


----------



## skeeter123

Rats! I could have sworn I saw it as available....Maybe a transient glitch or wishful thinking....sorry..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skeeter123*
> 
> Check the Swiftech website again. Let us know what you see...
> 
> Cheers!


----------



## Darkice

Oh wow the h220X is in stock I was really Aiming for the h240x but wow I've been checking there site on and off for the last two months, is there a noticeable difference in cooling between the two?
I Plan to add a second rad and GPU Block.


----------



## svictorcc

@BramSLI1
The pump of my Swiftech H140-X stop working!
I was playing shadow of mordor, and suddenly i had bluescreen and reboot. When entered the uefi bios the temps were at almost 100ºC!!
I almost lost my 4790k, that wasn't even overclocked (thank god).
Is this a common issue with the h140-X?
How can i solve this problem?
I was using it for only a week without any problem, got it new from frozencpu.
??


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkice*
> 
> Oh wow the h220X is in stock I was really Aiming for the h240x but wow I've been checking there site on and off for the last two months, is there a noticeable difference in cooling between the two?
> I Plan to add a second rad and GPU Block.


They are compared here - http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review

If you are planning to add a good quality 240mm rad along with the GPU the difference will be basically nonexistent. If you are planning on a smaller rad the 240X will likely offer slightly better performance.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> The pump of my Swiftech H140-X stop working!
> I was playing shadow of mordor, and suddenly i had bluescreen and reboot. When entered the uefi bios the temps were at almost 100ºC!!
> I almost lost my 4790k, that wasn't even overclocked (thank god).
> Is this a common issue with the h140-X?
> How can i solve this problem?
> I was using it for only a week without any problem, got it new from frozencpu.
> ??


No, this isn't common. Does your 140-X have a detachable wiring harness on the pump? If so please check that it is still securely plugged in and let me know if this doesn't resolve your issue. You can email me directly at [email protected]


----------



## ZC4065

Right guys, just bought an XSPC 7990 Full Cover Waterblock. I'm trying to figure out a list of all the stuff I need to get before I sit down to do this.



(Forgive the cable management, been adding fan controllers and such so it's a bit of a mess, some tidying needed)

I have two 140mm radiator spaces, back and bottom, where the two AF140 fans are. With some tweaking and removing a HDD cage I can add another 120mm.

Haven't decided fully whether to replace the tubing or not, I'm up for suggestion.

What's your advice on it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Right guys, just bought an XSPC 7990 Full Cover Waterblock. I'm trying to figure out a list of all the stuff I need to get before I sit down to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> (Forgive the cable management, been adding fan controllers and such so it's a bit of a mess, some tidying needed)
> 
> I have two 140mm radiator spaces, back and bottom, where the two AF140 fans are. With some tweaking and removing a HDD cage I can add another 120mm.
> 
> Haven't decided fully whether to replace the tubing or not, I'm up for suggestion.
> 
> What's your advice on it?


if you care about aesthetics you should replace it with something that matches if you don't the new tubing like you have will have 0 issues with plasticizing and is very good quality stuff...You can buy black neoprene like that if you.want it to match....or you can buy the 1/2 inch stuff if you wanna change all the fittings out...I personally went with same size fittings (compression)and just replaced all the.tubing with primochill advanced lrt because my kit came with the older tubing...and I dont care if the fittings match and I'm cheap









As for what you will need...at minimum you will need two fittings and some tubing...most would say another rad to help cool but you can try without that and see how it does temps wise...(general rule is 120mm for each component and an extra 120) If you go with 1/2 inch id tubing you'll need 6 fittings and tubing...with another rad 8 fittings and tubing...


----------



## deme

Hello guys! What do you think about my temps? The CPU is stock atm. I think they are a bit high...Pump is running at 2k rpm, fans at ~1200rpm (EK Vardars). TIM used is Gelid CG Extereme.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Hello guys! What do you think about my temps? The CPU is stock atm. I think they are a bit high...Pump is running at 2k rpm, fans at ~1200rpm (EK Vardars). TIM used is Gelid CG Extereme.


What's your ambient temperature?


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What's your ambient temperature?


Approximately 22 ℃


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, this isn't common. Does your 140-X have a detachable wiring harness on the pump? If so please check that it is still securely plugged in and let me know if this doesn't resolve your issue. You can email me directly at [email protected]


@BramSLI1

Thanks for the fast reply man!
Problem solved but just after some google. I find out that some pump issues can be solved just pressing the tube with the system on. I never opened or refilled the h140-x, it's a week new. But when i did it, a huge bubble came out and the pump start working!
I opened the reservoir on the bleed area and pressed the tube to take out the bubble and refilled the equal small amount with destiled water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Approximately 22 ℃


OK, then that looks fine for that chip without an overclock.


----------



## Darkice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are compared here - http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review
> 
> If you are planning to add a good quality 240mm rad along with the GPU the difference will be basically nonexistent. If you are planning on a smaller rad the 240X will likely offer slightly better performance.


could you recommend a good quality 240 rad I would like the EVGA 970 water block but it isn't out yet(or is sold out cant remember) or good brand for GPU block.
Sorry very new to liquid cooling thats why this upgradable system is so appealing to me.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkice*
> 
> could you recommend a good quality 240 rad I would like the EVGA 970 water block but it isn't out yet(or is sold out cant remember) or good brand for GPU block.
> Sorry very new to liquid cooling thats why this upgradable system is so appealing to me.


I'm personally partial to the XSPC AX240 and HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS. The Swiftech 220QP is also a nice rad for low rpm, and Alphacool makes excellent quality pieces, as well.


----------



## svictorcc

In about a month i'll make a small loop (CPU4790k stock/GPU gtx 970 stock clocks) with my H140-x.
No additional rads.
Considering it's a high quality ~13fpi rad and i'll use a Noctua 2000rpm ippc pwm configured to be at ~800/1100rpm, do you guys think it's undersized?
Even though this H140-X can dissipate something about 280/300w TDP, and my cpu/gpu can produce a max of ~240w TDP, i think it's a very possible small water loop.
I'm not aiming low temps, just low noise. If i can maintenance temps below 70ºC under heavy gaming, i'll be more than happy


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> In about a month i'll make a small loop (CPU4790k stock/GPU gtx 970 stock clocks) with my H140-x.
> No additional rads.
> Considering it's a high quality ~13fpi rad and i'll use a Noctua 2000rpm ippc pwm configured to be at ~800/1100rpm, do you guys think it's undersized?
> Even though this H140-X can dissipate something about 280/300w TDP, and my cpu/gpu can produce a max of ~240w TDP, i think it's a very possible small water loop.
> I'm not aiming low temps, just low noise. If i can maintenance temps below 70ºC under heavy gaming, i'll be more than happy


Could you not afford to add even one more radiator to the loop? It would make a definite difference in temps, and wouldn't even be that noisy!


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Could you not afford to add even one more radiator to the loop? It would make a definite difference in temps, and wouldn't even be that noisy!


The problem is: my case do not have room for another rad =(
It's a Tt Core V1 m-itx case.
Actually it "has" room for a 120mm rad, but it will compromise the aesthetics of my build.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> The problem is: my case do not have room for another rad =(
> It's a Tt Core V1 m-itx case.
> Actually it "has" room for a 120mm rad, but it will compromise the aesthetics of my build.


Honestly, especially in a mini case, I'd advise the radiator. Aesthetics are one thing, performance is everything, that's why we watercool in the first place


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Honestly, especially in a mini case, I'd advise the radiator. Aesthetics are one thing, performance is everything, that's why we watercool in the first place


Seconded. The second rad will be a huge help in cooling. CPU and GPU on a 240 is tight, on a single 140mm you are asking for trouble.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> In about a month i'll make a small loop (CPU4790k stock/GPU gtx 970 stock clocks) with my H140-x.
> No additional rads.
> Considering it's a high quality ~13fpi rad and i'll use a Noctua 2000rpm ippc pwm configured to be at ~800/1100rpm, do you guys think it's undersized?
> Even though this H140-X can dissipate something about 280/300w TDP, and my cpu/gpu can produce a max of ~240w TDP, i think it's a very possible small water loop.
> I'm not aiming low temps, just low noise. If i can maintenance temps below 70ºC under heavy gaming, i'll be more than happy


Not having enough rad creates the necessity for more air going through what you have in order to keep temps down. So, you are being entirely counterproductive in reaching your low noise goal by having too little rad.

BTW - as a user of Noctua PPCs, I can tell you that they are not the correct choice if your goal is quiet. They are great fans, but even at low speeds they are not quiet.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Honestly, especially in a mini case, I'd advise the radiator. Aesthetics are one thing, performance is everything, that's why we watercool in the first place


Thanks for the advice.
now you left me in doubt!
I'm new to the world of water cooling, just starting with it, but i'll consider your point and look for a good second rad.
in time: Do you recommend any 92mm or 120mm thin rad?


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Seconded. The second rad will be a huge help in cooling. CPU and GPU on a 240 is tight, on a single 140mm you are asking for trouble.
> Not having enough rad creates the necessity for more air going through what you have in order to keep temps down. So, you are being entirely counterproductive in reaching your low noise goal by having too little rad.
> 
> BTW - as a user of Noctua PPCs, I can tell you that they are not the correct choice if your goal is quiet. They are great fans, but even at low speeds they are not quiet.


I thought this noctua ippc was the same noise than the normal noctua's fan (at same rpm).
But, as ZC4065 said, i'll consider your point and look for a 92mm or 120mm rad.
Do you know any rad with this measures that is thin?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Thanks for the advice.
> now you left me in doubt!
> I'm new to the world of water cooling, just starting with it, but i'll consider your point and look for a good second rad.
> in time: Do you recommend any 92mm or 120mm thin rad?


The XSPC EX120 is a good thin radiator at 35mm, but best performance comes from a thick radiator and strong Static Pressure fans.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, this isn't common. Does your 140-X have a detachable wiring harness on the pump? If so please check that it is still securely plugged in and let me know if this doesn't resolve your issue. You can email me directly at [email protected]


What's the reason behind changing the wiring harness of the pump from being detachable to being fixed?


----------



## ZC4065

Well, it's happened! The cracks have appeared on my screen.



They're small at the moment, but I'd rather sort it before it becomes an issue. Did anybody find a cause/fix for this?


----------



## demitrisln

How are these temps with a H220X (CPU and GPU water loop)

10% CPU usage 39C
100% GPU usage 55C

??


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> How are these temps with a H220X (CPU and GPU water loop)
> 
> 10% CPU usage 39C
> 100% GPU usage 55C
> 
> ??


Any more details about your system? Ie. Radiators used, GPU and CPU (and overclock if applicable).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> How are these temps with a H220X (CPU and GPU water loop)
> 
> 10% CPU usage 39C
> 100% GPU usage 55C
> 
> ??


i forget what you are running since your sig rig isnt in your sig... but that depends on how long and how you are stressing it to 100 percent...if you let it hit 100 and check... its not a true representation... is this during gaming.. is this during a stress test... is this during normal usage? also processor dictates alot in this case...


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i forget what you are running since your sig rig isnt in your sig... but that depends on how long and how you are stressing it to 100 percent...if you let it hit 100 and check... its not a true representation... is this during gaming.. is this during a stress test... is this during normal usage? also processor dictates alot in this case...


Sorry I have to get my rig up still in my Sig. I have one rad no overclock on the CPU or Card. The CPU is a FX8230 and the card is a R9 290X.. The temperature was while I was playing a game for around 2.5hrs....


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Sorry I have to get my rig up still in my Sig. I have one rad no overclock on the CPU or Card. The CPU is a FX8230 and the card is a R9 290X.. The temperature was while I was playing a game for around 2.5hrs....


That seems like very decent temps for a 290x with one extra rad! Have you tried CPU and GPU on 100% together though?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Sorry I have to get my rig up still in my Sig. I have one rad no overclock on the CPU or Card. The CPU is a FX8230 and the card is a R9 290X.. The temperature was while I was playing a game for around 2.5hrs....


Also, what size of radiator have you added?


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Also, what size of radiator have you added?


Haven't added another rad just the 220 that came with the H220X

I'll run a AIDA64 Extreme and let you know what the temps at 100% of CPU and GPU come up at.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Haven't added another rad just the 220 that came with the H220X
> 
> I'll run a AIDA64 Extreme and let you know what the temps at 100% of CPU and GPU come up at.


Wow, if running them together goes okay that seems like some seriously low temps for a single rad.


----------



## demitrisln

Here is everything 100% GPU and CPU temps kept creeping up....


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Here is everything 100% GPU and CPU temps kept creeping up....


Well with only the one radiator that is very impressive


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Well, it's happened! The cracks have appeared on my screen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're small at the moment, but I'd rather sort it before it becomes an issue. Did anybody find a cause/fix for this?


Have you made any adjustments to the tightness of the screw? I wonder if the factory torque is too high causing the crack. Mine has not cracked, but I've used it often.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Have you made any adjustments to the tightness of the screw? I wonder if the factory torque is too high causing the crack. Mine has not cracked, but I've used it often.


Haven't touched the screw! Barely had it a month, but I noticed a while ago that this issue had occured, was wondering if there was a cause discovered.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Haven't touched the screw! Barely had it a month, but I noticed a while ago that this issue had occured, was wondering if there was a cause discovered.


How's the ambient temps like in Northern Ireland? According to Bryan, this is caused by very low ambient temps.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Haven't touched the screw! Barely had it a month, but I noticed a while ago that this issue had occured, was wondering if there was a cause discovered.


It might be related to freezing during shipping. We had a few with such symptoms. Mine is much the same and needs a swap. PM Bryan (BramSLI) to get another window shipped to you (or organize full CLC replacement)


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How's the ambient temps like in Northern Ireland? According to Bryan, this is caused by very low ambient temps.


Ambient is fine, always above freezing in this room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> It might be related to freezing during shipping. We had a few with such symptoms. Mine is much the same and needs a swap. PM Bryan (BramSLI) to get another window shipped to you (or organize full CLC replacement)


Will do


----------



## kevindd992002

I might've worded that incorrectly. ZeDestructor is right, the freezing temp during shipping seems to be causing this issue (not the ambient temp in the room).


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I might've worded that incorrectly. ZeDestructor is right, the freezing temp during shipping seems to be causing this issue (not the ambient temp in the room).


Yeah, pmed Bryan so hopefully it'll get sorted


----------



## Wirerat

Deleted


----------



## ZC4065

Just wondering, with a crack such as mine, is it still safe to use my computer?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Just wondering, with a crack such as mine, is it still safe to use my computer?


as long as it isn't leaking I don't see why not...I'd keep an eye on it though


----------



## ZC4065

The radiator with the H220-x is a seemingly low FPI one, and I'm wondering is there any advantage to replacing the Helix fans with high Static Pressure SP120 fans?


----------



## erso44

I want one sooooooooooooooooo bad


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> I want one sooooooooooooooooo bad


Very happy with mine for far, hopefully the weather issues have passed so I would definitely advise getting one!


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Yeah, pmed Bryan so hopefully it'll get sorted


I'm still waiting for parts before I fix mine, and it hasn; t leaked yet. Oh, and more cracks showed up since I first noticed. Should be done soon...


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> I'm still waiting for parts before I fix mine, and it hasn; t leaked yet. Oh, and more cracks showed up since I first noticed. Should be done soon...


Yep, same here. Figured if I'm gonna be taking it apart and fixing and replacing coolant I may as well open the loop.



That's the current plan, with the H220-x up top, XSPC waterblock, and a 240mm rad on front


----------



## ZC4065

Quick question, shopping for parts and stuff. I'm getting 5/8 OD x 3/8 ID compression fittings for my GPU block and radiator, is it worth replacing the barbs on the CPU block and H220-x with compression fittings too?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Quick question, shopping for parts and stuff. I'm getting 5/8 OD x 3/8 ID compression fittings for my GPU block and radiator, is it worth replacing the barbs on the CPU block and H220-x with compression fittings too?


I left mine id day that's subjective...the swiftech fittings are good and they are swivel so saves you about 12 bucks a piece


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I left mine id day that's subjective...the swiftech fittings are good and they are swivel so saves you about 12 bucks a piece


Yeah, I'm just a sucker for consistency. Going to be taking the cooler apart soon anyway, I'll take a look then.


----------



## demitrisln

Ok quick question for everybody.... I'm thinking about putting another reservoir in my PC (looks cool and easier to bleed) My question is if I have the 2nd reservoir below my GPU (So H220 > CPU > (maybe a rad) > GPU and then to my new reservoir and back into the 220X wouldn't the 2nd reservior have to fill up to the top before the swiftech reservoir would fill up? So that would defeat the purpose of have the 2nd one to make it easier to bleed.... Maybe i'm not thinking right but i would have to assume every part after the Swiftech would have to be filled up with coolant before the Swiftech reservoir would fill up.....

HELP


----------



## phenom01

holy..crap. The 240x is a monster. Dropped 10c or more off my load cpu temps vs my H100i.

Swiftech


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The radiator with the H220-x is a seemingly low FPI one, and I'm wondering is there any advantage to replacing the Helix fans with high Static Pressure SP120 fans?


No, not much.

I switched the Helix fan out for Phanteks new PH-140MP radiator fans, temps improved by a mere 2c at max load for my 4670k. That's with both fans running at 1000rpm though. Seeing as the PH-140MP > SP120 in performance anyways, I don't see how the SP120 would do any better than the Helix other than adding unnessasary noise.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Quick question, shopping for parts and stuff. I'm getting 5/8 OD x 3/8 ID compression fittings for my GPU block and radiator, is it worth replacing the barbs on the CPU block and H220-x with compression fittings too?


I'm replacing the CPU-side fittings with QDCs for ease of use later on when I go fully custom and make the installation easier for me... I needed a friend's help to hold the backplate in place as I bolted the block in because of the tubing applying force to the block (I mounted the rad/res/pump/fans before mounting the block).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> No, not much.
> 
> I switched the Helix fan out for Phanteks new PH-140MP radiator fans, temps improved by a mere 2c at max load for my 4670k. That's with both fans running at 1000rpm though. Seeing as the PH-140MP > SP120 in performance anyways, I don't see how the SP120 would do any better than the Helix other than adding unnessasary noise.


At 1000 rpm or so, pretty much all fans behave the same. You also really can't compare the PH-F140MP to either of the three SP120s directly. So making the jump to the Helix comparison is a big stretch from that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phenom01*
> 
> holy..crap. The 240x is a monster. Dropped 10c or more off my load cpu temps vs my H100i.
> 
> Swiftech


Err.. I am glad to hear that but you very likely had a bad mount on the H100i then. No AIO is 10 C better than any other, even with a 5960x running at close to 250-275 W by itself.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> No, not much.
> 
> I switched the Helix fan out for Phanteks new PH-140MP radiator fans, temps improved by a mere 2c at max load for my 4670k. That's with both fans running at 1000rpm though. Seeing as the PH-140MP > SP120 in performance anyways, I don't see how the SP120 would do any better than the Helix other than adding unnessasary noise.


Just wondering because I fitted the H220-x with 2 SP 120s, but might move them to a push/pull configuration on the new radiator as it's quite thick at 60mm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> I'm replacing the CPU-side fittings with QDCs for ease of use later on when I go fully custom and make the installation easier for me... I needed a friend's help to hold the backplate in place as I bolted the block in because of the tubing applying force to the block (I mounted the rad/res/pump/fans before mounting the block).


Probably just going to leave them as it's replacing for the sake of replacing.


----------



## svictorcc

What do you guys think about this loop and configuration (heat and noise levels)?

H140-X->4790K 4.6ghz 1.265v->140mm rad 12fpi brass/cooper push->gtx 970 1264mhz +25mva


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> What do you guys think about this loop and configuration (heat and noise levels)?
> 
> H140-X->4790K 4.6ghz 1.265v->140mm rad 12fpi brass/cooper push->gtx 970 1264mhz +25mva


Another radiator or a longer one definitely wouldn't go amiss in there, that is a fair bit of heat being given off especially with a 0.6 GHz OC on the CPU


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> At 1000 rpm or so, pretty much all fans behave the same. You also really can't compare the PH-F140MP to either of the three SP120s directly. So making the jump to the Helix comparison is a big stretch from that.


Well I do agree, but running them at anything more than 1200rpm is kind of redundant in the first place. I know a lot of people run the Helix fans at the 900-1200rpm range, so I'm just making a comparison to that. I don't want to get into the whole SP120 fan argument here, not the right thread but there's a reason why I say I don't think they make a huge difference from the Helix fans.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Just wondering because I fitted the H220-x with 2 SP 120s, but might move them to a push/pull configuration on the new radiator as it's quite thick at 60mm.
> Probably just going to leave them as it's replacing for the sake of replacing.


swiftechs fittings are pretty good tbh they.swivel.and fit the blocks theme well


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Well I do agree, but running them at anything more than 1200rpm is kind of redundant in the first place. I know a lot of people run the Helix fans at the 900-1200rpm range, so I'm just making a comparison to that. I don't want to get into the whole SP120 fan argument here, not the right thread but there's a reason why I say I don't think they make a huge difference from the Helix fans.


After looking into it a fair bit, I'd say the advantage is the Static Pressure on the SP120s can go up to 3.1mmH2O which is good for higher FPI radiators. The H220-x is a low FPI radiator, so the advantage is lost for the SP120.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Don't believe manufacturer fan stats. They all manipulate the testing procedures and the data from them in different ways trying to make their fans sound better than others comparatively, so much so you can *never* rely on manufacturer specs to compare except to other fans from the same manufacturer. You have to look at independent comparative testing to see how fans stack up against each other.

example: http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/

And Corsair SP120s are seriously annoying on a rad at higher speeds. Once they get above 1500rpm pushing against a restriction their tone starts to sound like a buzzsaw. They are the shortest lived fans I ever tried to use before I had to replace them with something quieter. That said, at lower speeds where most people would keep them at most of the time anyway, like 1200rpm and below, they are ok. IMHO they are only suitable for use as a case fan, but that's just me.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Another radiator or a longer one definitely wouldn't go amiss in there, that is a fair bit of heat being given off especially with a 0.6 GHz OC on the CPU


Thanks.
Actually it's only .2ghz oc, since i'll keep the turbo boost.
I'm using the h140x now with the 4790k at stock, but i could anchieve 4.794ghz and 1.3v with very good temps (i'm always meaning real world, like games).


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Thanks.
> Actually it's only .2ghz oc, since i'll keep the turbo boost.
> I'm using the h140x now with the 4790k at stock, but i could anchieve 4.794ghz and 1.3v with very good temps (i'm always meaning real world, like games).


Adding the GPU to the loop does put some strain on, and always better to be safe than sorry! I'd advise using a 240mm instead of a 140mm extra radiator if you can fit it.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> After looking into it a fair bit, I'd say the advantage is the Static Pressure on the SP120s can go up to 3.1mmH2O which is good for higher FPI radiators. The H220-x is a low FPI radiator, so the advantage is lost for the SP120.


Precisely.

Which is why I say going from the Helix fans to a SP120 or any other high static pressure fan wouldn't make significant difference, whatever RPM they're going to run on.


----------



## deme

I couldn't stand the noise of the Helix fans and I replaced them with EK Vardar's. Very good fans and honestly, inaudible at 1000-1200 rpm.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> I couldn't stand the noise of the Helix fans and I replaced them with EK Vardar's. Very good fans and honestly, inaudible at 1000-1200 rpm.


Agreed. At same rpm the noctua fans are quieter than helix.
Another thing that i notice (after google research) is that the h140x can handle a stock 4790k and a stock gtx 970 with low rpm and temps around 60/70ºC while gaming, that is what matters (prime95 and furmark are just parameters, i built a gaming and htpc rig, not a dreamworks/pixar workstation).


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Agree. Ay same rpm the noctua fans are more quiet than helix.
> Another thing that i notice (after research google) is that the h140x can handle a stock 4790k and a stock gtx 970 with low rpm and temps around 60/70ºC while gaming, that is what matters (prime95 and furmark are just parameters, i build a gaming and htpc rig, not a dreamworks/pixar workstation).
> BUT, to open room for OC, i'll add a second 140mm rad.
> More rad, for me, is just wast of money.


60C/70C while gaming with watercooling isn't great. In a stress test my (very bad overclocking) 4670k at 4.2GHz never peaks 60, in heavy games at ultra at 2560x1080 I sit at 50ish.

You can never have enough radiator.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> 60C/70C while gaming with watercooling isn't great. In a stress test my (very bad overclocking) 4670k at 4.2GHz never peaks 60, in heavy games at ultra at 2560x1080 I sit at 50ish.
> 
> You can never have enough radiator.


I partially agree. I love benchmarks and overclock, really, but my propose is a good and quiet mitx build for gaming and htpc.
If i had a full tower atx, and money, no doubt i would build a 840mm full custom water loop.
Unfortunately mitx cases hardly have support for a good tower cooler (ex. Nh-d15), and aio like my old h90 are great, but doesn't look good like a custom water loop.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And Corsair SP120s are seriously annoying on a rad at higher speeds. Once they get above 1500rpm pushing against a restriction their tone starts to sound like a buzzsaw. They are the shortest lived fans I ever tried to use before I had to replace them with something quieter. That said, at lower speeds where most people would keep them at most of the time anyway, like 1200rpm and below, they are ok. IMHO they are only suitable for use as a case fan, but that's just me.


You are being a little harsh here. The tone is far more reminiscent of a low priced handheld vacuum than a buzzsaw, and they are far more suitable to be used as coasters than case fans. With changeable color rings you can match almost any room decor.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know when the H240x will be back in stock. Also I have a Gigabyte ati 7970 that I want to cool too. Any suggestions on what I will need, like a extra reservoir etc. will help me out a lot. Thanks.


----------



## Gavush

what CPU do you have? I am cooling an AMD FX-8350 and two 7970s with a H240x and a MCR220-XP high FPI 240mm radiator. The temps are very good, even when folding or running boinc. I would say what you need would depend on what your CPU is and what you can fit in your case. An additional reservoir will make bleeding easier. I added a 8" long section of tubing to the fill port on my H240x to assist with filling and bleeding since I have installed my system with rigid tubing and can not remove it to fill and bleed. If you don't mind the extra time involved in bleeding I don't think an additional reservoir is necessary tho may make things easier. It takes me 1-2 hours to fill and bleed my loop.

Pics of what I have going on can be seen http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1256666/swiftech-h240-x-cooler/


----------



## phenom01

A fan port on my 240x fan board just shorted out or something...suddenly started running the fan at 100%. Took me a while to figure it out. Switched to a dif port...and started running at normal speeds again. Only had it installed for about 6 hours of run time.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> what CPU do you have? I am cooling an AMD FX-8350 and two 7970s with a H240x and a MCR220-XP high FPI 240mm radiator. The temps are very good, even when folding or running boinc. I would say what you need would depend on what your CPU is and what you can fit in your case. An additional reservoir will make bleeding easier. I added a 8" long section of tubing to the fill port on my H240x to assist with filling and bleeding since I have installed my system with rigid tubing and can not remove it to fill and bleed. If you don't mind the extra time involved in bleeding I don't think an additional reservoir is necessary tho may make things easier. It takes me 1-2 hours to fill and bleed my loop.
> 
> Pics of what I have going on can be seen http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1256666/swiftech-h240-x-cooler/


I have a Sabertooth Z77 mb with a I5 3570k cpu all in a Cosmos 2 case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know when the H240x will be back in stock. Also I have a Gigabyte ati 7970 that I want to cool too. Any suggestions on what I will need, like a extra reservoir etc. will help me out a lot. Thanks.


In about two to three weeks. You'll need a GPU block, a pair of fittings to match the tubing you intend to use, more coolant, possibly an extra radiator and fans. You don't need an additional reservoir though. The one in this kit will be sufficient if you're planning to expand it.


----------



## NIK1

What size of extra rad do you recommend Bryan. A Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 140mm Radiator - 80mm Thick. Would this kind do.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> What size of extra rad do you recommend Bryan. A Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Single 140mm Radiator - 80mm Thick. Would this kind do.


Sure, if you have room in your case to fit it.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks Bryan. Which one of your GPU water blocks do you recommend for my Gigabyte ati 7970.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks Bryan. Which one of your GPU water blocks do you recommend for my Gigabyte ati 7970.


I'd need to know the model number of the card to check compatibility with our blocks.


----------



## NIK1

AMD Radeon HD 7900 Series. If there is a different number I will dig out the box and give you the specific number.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> AMD Radeon HD 7900 Series. If there is a different number I will dig out the box and give you the specific number.


Does your card use the stock AMD cooler?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Precisely.
> 
> Which is why I say going from the Helix fans to a SP120 or any other high static pressure fan wouldn't make significant difference, whatever RPM they're going to run on.


So what do you recommend? because i am in the market for some fans to replace the helix from my h220 x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> I couldn't stand the noise of the Helix fans and I replaced them with EK Vardar's. Very good fans and honestly, inaudible at 1000-1200 rpm.


what are good fans for my h220x? are there better fans than the stock helix ones?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Precisely.
> 
> Which is why I say going from the Helix fans to a SP120 or any other high static pressure fan wouldn't make significant difference, whatever RPM they're going to run on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> I couldn't stand the noise of the Helix fans and I replaced them with EK Vardar's. Very good fans and honestly, inaudible at 1000-1200 rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Does your card use the stock AMD cooler?


hey Bram, remember me? My h220x is performing better. But only because i delidded,if i never delidded i would have a flaming chip. I dont believe my cooler is bad, i believe its my 4670k







but still going strong and now looking to do some expansion and upgrades to my H220X


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> So what do you recommend? because i am in the market for some fans to replace the helix from my h220 x
> what are good fans for my h220x? are there better fans than the stock helix ones?


I really like Phanteks MP series of fans currently, so it's something I recommend whole heartedly. Not sure on the EK Vardars yet, have not used it but FWIR it's not a Gentle Typhoon replacement.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Does your card use the stock AMD cooler?


I did have the stock cooler on it, I removed it and put on a Kracken G10 kit with a corsair H55.My temps with the G10 kit is 29 idle and 57-58 when gaming. Would not a full water block in a loop with the H240x not cool it better than what I have now.


----------



## BramSLI1

If it had the stock AMD cooler on it then it has to be a reference card. This will mean that it's compatible with our Komodo HD 7970 water block. A full-cover water block would probably be better than what you have now.


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> So what do you recommend? because i am in the market for some fans to replace the helix from my h220 x
> what are good fans for my h220x? are there better fans than the stock helix ones?


Gentle Typhoons, EK Vardars, Noiseblocker e-Loop...all these are great fans for radiators.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> I really like Phanteks MP series of fans currently, so it's something I recommend whole heartedly. Not sure on the EK Vardars yet, have not used it but FWIR it's not a Gentle Typhoon replacement.


i looked them up and lok pretty damn sexy tbh. I just wish they had a LED variant. But oh well i cant be too picky. BTW,are they even out? i didnt see any reviews or anything or for sale yet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons, EK Vardars, Noiseblocker e-Loop...all these are great fans for radiators.


What do you think about the Phanteks MP? look them up if you can unless you already know of them.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i looked them up and lok pretty damn sexy tbh. I just wish they had a LED variant. But oh well i cant be too picky. BTW,are they even out? i didnt see any reviews or anything or for sale yet.
> What do you think about the Phanteks MP? look them up if you can unless you already know of them.


Yes they've been out for 2 months: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Pressure-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140MP_BK_PWM/dp/B00OP2PUDQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422947791&sr=8-2&keywords=phanteks+mp&pebp=1422947846340&peasin=B00OP2PUDQ


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> I really like Phanteks MP series of fans currently, so it's something I recommend whole heartedly. *Not sure on the EK Vardars yet, have not used it but FWIR it's not a Gentle Typhoon replacement.*


I disagree, I have both and at low speeds, I find Vardars to be better than GT's. Actually I have already mounted them instead of GT's on my H220-X. Plus, they are PWM. Very good fans but not as good looking as GT's.


----------



## svictorcc

Has anyone here delided the CPU and used CLP/CLU to the die?
Is this worth? Gains etc...?
I'm asking because it would be a much cheaper option instead of add another rad to the loop.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Has anyone here delided the CPU and used CLP/CLU to the die?
> Is this worth? Gains etc...?
> I'm asking because it would be a much cheaper option instead of add another rad to the loop.


The Deliding club has the amount of temperature dropped for each user that submitted it on front page


----------



## spacetoast31

@BramSLI1
I was wondering if my h220x would be able to handle this loop
H220x-cpu-gpu-gpu-monsta 3x120 rad and a bitspower multiz res


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> I was wondering if my h220x would be able to handle this loop
> H220x-cpu-gpu-gpu-monsta 3x120 rad and a bitspower multiz res


I would think so, but it likely will be at the low end of the flow spectrum. Adding an additional pump would be wise at this point.


----------



## ZaG

Hello all!

Didn't want to start my own thread unless I absolutely had too.

I got the 240X for my sig rig however I have yet to install it. I am awaiting my Thermaltake Core X9 Case linked below:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133275

After further thought I would like to cool my GTX 980 STRIX in addition to my i7 4770k as well and had some questions on extra tubing fittings ect. needed to extend the loop to cool my GPU as well. Please be helpful as I am in the process of learning custom water-cooling and want things to go smoothly. I know EK has blocks for the STRIX, what version should I get meaning nickel acetyl ect. I have decided on getting a 360 rad seeing as how I have the space and can use it for future loops and expansions. Will the H240X be able to support the extensions I want to make to the loop? Links would help me the most for all required parts. Thanks!







I will post pics when I'm done!


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would think so, but it likely will be at the low end of the flow spectrum. Adding an additional pump would be wise at this point.


I figured as much. I was just hoping to get by for a few weeks but id rather not push my luck.


----------



## erso44

still waiting for h240x.....god I´m getting old


----------



## sgs2008

Hi guys just bought a 220x planning to expand it to water cool 2 x 780tis. This is the my first foray into expanding my water cooling have alwyas just stuck with aios as they are. My question is would an additional 120mm radiator be sufficient for coolig my 2 gpus ?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgs2008*
> 
> Hi guys just bought a 220x planning to expand it to water cool 2 x 780tis. This is the my first foray into expanding my water cooling have alwyas just stuck with aios as they are. My question is would an additional 120mm radiator be sufficient for coolig my 2 gpus ?


For every GPU that you want to add, you will need 1 x 120 rad for each and another 120 rad for better cooling result. So you are looking at 1 x 360 rad or 1 x 240 rad and 1 x 120 rad.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all does the location for the 2nd radiator matter? I have the H220X that feeds into my FX-8320 and then into my R9 290X. Should I put a 120MM radiator before the GPU or would it be better to install a 240/280MM on the front of my case after the GPU?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all does the location for the 2nd radiator matter? I have the H220X that feeds into my FX-8320 and then into my R9 290X. Should I put a 120MM radiator before the GPU or would it be better to install a 240/280MM on the front of my case after the GPU?


doesn't matter...loop order isn't normally important with one exception being you always want the pump feeding from the reservoir aside from that run it however you want


----------



## s74r1

Anyone know if the tubing size from Swiftech site is accurate for the 220-X and 240-X? Swiftech site says 3/8" ID 5/8" OD, but I've had 3/8" before and it looked thinner than this. I plan on adding a GPU and maybe another radiator, hoping to re-use the existing fittings.


----------



## Mega Man

3/8 id not od


----------



## fuloran1

I can confirm its 3/8 id and 5/8 od


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Anyone know if the tubing size from Swiftech site is accurate for the 220-X and 240-X? Swiftech site says 3/8" ID 5/8" OD, but I've had 3/8" before and it looked thinner than this. I plan on adding a GPU and maybe another radiator, hoping to re-use the existing fittings.


Of course it is accurate. Perhaps you were using 3/8x1/2 previously?


----------



## NIK1

When the H240x becomes available I want to build a loop. Tell me if I am wrong with this setup.H240 up top of case out to the cpu,from cpu to the extra rad at back of case, from the extra rad to the ati video card, and from the vid card back to the H240x.I have never had a loop before so I want to make shure its set up right. How does this look. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.


----------



## Gavush

That sounds fine, but don't limit yourself to alternating a radiator between your heat sources. Route the lines as aesthetically pleasing as you'd like, preferably as short as possible with as few 90-degree bends as possible. The order of the loop does not make enough of a difference to worry about, .5c to 1c at the most so far as I read. Especially not a big deal with only one gpu.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> When the H240x becomes available I want to build a loop. Tell me if I am wrong with this setup.H240 up top of case out to the cpu,from cpu to the extra rad at back of case, from the extra rad to the ati video card, and from the vid card back to the H240x.I have never had a loop before so I want to make shure its set up right. How does this look. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.


Yes, that looks fine. Just go with the shortest distance between blocks. The order of components in the loop makes no difference though in terms of performance.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info......


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info......


The reason people say go the shortest distance is the less volume of water the pump has to push the better the flow and the better the cooling.. although its not much every little bit helps and it looks better with short runs


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> The reason people say go the shortest distance is the less volume of water the pump has to push the better the flow and the better the cooling.. although its not much every little bit helps and it looks better with short runs


No, the main reason is for looks. The distance between components really doesn't make any difference. It just looks better to have shorter runs between components. I have a radiator on the back of my case and it sits in between my motherboard block and my GPU. This isn't because I don't want additional tubing or to cool the water prior to it hitting my GPU, it's just because it looks better that way.


----------



## ZC4065

Also, technically you need less coolant to fill a smaller loop, but in reality that isn't a massive gain.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info......
> 
> 
> 
> The reason people say go the shortest distance is the less volume of water the pump has to push the better the flow and the better the cooling.. although its not much every little bit helps and it looks better with short runs
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> The reason people say go the shortest distance is the less volume of water the pump has to push the better the flow and the better the cooling.. although its not much every little bit helps and it looks better with short runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, the main reason is for looks. The distance between components really doesn't make any difference. It just looks better to have shorter runs between components. I have a radiator on the back of my case and it sits in between my motherboard block and my GPU. This isn't because I don't want additional tubing or to cool the water prior to it hitting my GPU, it's just because it looks better that way.
Click to expand...

it is really this

volume does not matter long term


----------



## wes1099

Brian, I just noticed a crack in the reservoir window right around the bleed screw like many others have experienced. I also realized that all of a sudden I have a strange bubble in my res that was not there before. Here is a picture -


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Brian, I just noticed a crack in the reservoir window right around the bleed screw like many others have experienced. I also realized that all of a sudden I have a strange bubble in my res that was not there before. Here is a picture -


where is the crack bro?? I just read this and got scared and immediately booted up my PC to check and the same exact lines i see in your tube i see in mine. where is the crack?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> where is the crack bro?? I just read this and got scared and immediately booted up my PC to check and the same exact lines i see in your tube i see in mine. where is the crack?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> where is the crack bro?? I just read this and got scared and immediately booted up my PC to check and the same exact lines i see in your tube i see in mine. where is the crack?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just checked and luckily i dont have it! but the crack, is anything leaking? what have you noticed in terms of performance?
Click to expand...


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i just checked and luckily i dont have it! but the crack, is anything leaking? what have you noticed in terms of performance?


Nothing different in terms of performance. It is not leaking any liquid but it still concerns me, especially since it let an air bubble get in there.


----------



## wes1099

You know what, I am just going to PM Brian from Swiftech.


----------



## wes1099

OH GOD IT IS LEAKING DEAR JESUS MAKE IT STOP!


----------



## wes1099

OK. I got my trusty air cooler back on, and didn't spill any liquids on my PC. I will probably drain the cooler in the morning and then I guess I will just have to run on air until I can get a new window...


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> OK. I got my trusty air cooler back on, and didn't spill any liquids on my PC. I will probably drain the cooler in the morning and then I guess I will just have to run on air until I can get a new window...


WOW. sorry to hear that! are you getting a replacement? Brian is a huge help on here as he has helped many people including me. Do you think it would have got worse if you didnt notice?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> OK. I got my trusty air cooler back on, and didn't spill any liquids on my PC. I will probably drain the cooler in the morning and then I guess I will just have to run on air until I can get a new window...


I recently discovered the same with mine, it's just a winter shipping issue. Email Bryan at [email protected] with a copy of your order receipt, and a picture of the crack (a close up one). Mine is being shipped soon


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> WOW. sorry to hear that! are you getting a replacement? Brian is a huge help on here as he has helped many people including me. Do you think it would have got worse if you didnt notice?


Yeah it definitely would have gotten worse if I didn't realize it. About 30 minutes after I realized the crack a small drop of fluid began forming on the reservoir window,and at that point I took it out and slapped my air cooler in there. I am sure I will be able to get a replacement window but it will probably be at least a week since swiftech ships from long Beach California and I am on the other side of the country.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Yeah it definitely would have gotten worse if I didn't realize it. About 30 minutes after I realized the crack a small drop of fluid began forming on the reservoir window,and at that point I took it out and slapped my air cooler in there. I am sure I will be able to get a replacement window but it will probably be at least a week since swiftech ships from long Beach California and I am on the other side of the country.


I probably would've gorilla glued it until.replacement got there but this way you know it can't leak


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I probably would've gorilla glued it until.replacement got there but this way you know it can't leak


I thought about that, but I just put my air cooler on instead. It isn't that hard to install/uninstall my air cooler, and the H220-X is basically as simple as it gets.


----------



## Duke976

Changing the H220 and 600T to H140 with 480 alphacool and Phantek Enthoo Primo.

From this:



To this:



Waiting for some distilled water to start my build. Still using the same component, just preparing for some upgrade by summer time. Just in time for the new video cards from NV and AMD.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Brian, I just noticed a crack in the reservoir window right around the bleed screw like many others have experienced. I also realized that all of a sudden I have a strange bubble in my res that was not there before. Here is a picture -


"many others"? is this a widespread problem?

my 240-X is only a few weeks old but now I'm concerned this might happen. how old was yours before you noticed a crack?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> "many others"? is this a widespread problem?


I have seen 4 occurrences of this same issue so far. People say that the cold environment during shipping is what causes this which makes sense, but I find it a little odd that I have had my unit for about three weeks and it just started leaking last night.


----------



## zila

Would Anyone happen to know if the EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z vrm water block fits on the board with an H220 installed? I was wondering if the H220 pump would get in the way of mounting that water block.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I have seen 4 occurrences of this same issue so far. People say that the cold environment during shipping is what causes this which makes sense, but I find it a little odd that I have had my unit for about three weeks and it just started leaking last night.


hmm that is odd. did you just notice the crack recently or you think it might have always been there from the original shipping? I'm concerned now because I've bumped that screw many times just installing the thing.

does anyone know if the reservoir is plexiglass or acrylic? i know the former is known to crack under pressure. really hope swiftech didn't go cheap on these things.


----------



## Caos

Hello, I want to change the stock coolers that brings h220x, what would you recommend?

thanks


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I have seen 4 occurrences of this same issue so far. People say that the cold environment during shipping is what causes this which makes sense, but I find it a little odd that I have had my unit for about three weeks and it just started leaking last night.


I had mine for the same amount of time before I noticed the cracks, but thankfully mine hasn't leaked. Haven't heard anything about anyone's replacement window cracking, so I'm assuming it is in fact the shipping issue.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I had mine for the same amount of time before I noticed the cracks, but thankfully mine hasn't leaked. Haven't heard anything about anyone's replacement window cracking, so I'm assuming it is in fact the shipping issue.


I hope that that the cracking is because the acrylic contracts in the cold and the tight screw causes the cracking. I will probably leave my replacement window to warm up to room temperature before I attempt to install it.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I hope that that the cracking is because the acrylic contracts in the cold and the tight screw causes the cracking. I will probably leave my replacement window to warm up to room temperature before I attempt to install it.


I have no idea when mine arrives, or if it's even shipped, but I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## erso44

waiting here to order one....they are not on stock, w* t* f*...


----------



## zu903

Ive always been interested in water cooling and after some recent upgrades i think its time. I was doing a little overclocking today and my CM hyper 212 wasn't where i would like it to be. I have looked at some other systems but i really like how customizable the H220-X is. I am curious does changing the hoses and or adding on another radiator affect the warranty?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Ive always been interested in water cooling and after some recent upgrades i think its time. I was doing a little overclocking today and my CM hyper 212 wasn't where i would like it to be. I have looked at some other systems but i really like how customizable the H220-X is. I am curious does changing the hoses and or adding on another radiator affect the warranty?


nope...expansion is fully covered as long as you don't disassemble the pump or res...


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> nope...expansion is fully covered as long as you don't disassemble the pump or res...


Thanks who have you guys been ordering from im gonna go through performance pcs unless i can find someone cheaper.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

i think direct from swiftech is cheapest but not sure if they have in stock right now


----------



## Duke976

Due to some miscalculation of some measurements, I ended up putting the H140X at the bottom of Phantek Primo. Just need to get some extension cables for the H140 pump wire and PWM cable so I can hide those and route it with the water cooling hose.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Due to some miscalculation of some measurements, I ended up putting the H140X at the bottom of Phantek Primo. Just need to get some extension cables for the H140 pump wire and PWM cable so I can hide those and route it with the water cooling hose.










it looks good I will do the same!


----------



## s74r1

I just realized my backplate is upside down. /facepalm. I suppose it doesn't matter in the end as long as the pegs are in the holes all the way.

yes, reading instructions does help - there is a correct orientation to avoid the socket screws.

P.S. pfft, instructions...

Edit: nice build @Duke976, thanks for sharing. I plan on going a similar route once I add my GPUs, need to find some plasticizer-free red tubing though. Did you have to sharpie the red plate on the block to get it red? or some transparent film of some sort?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looks good I will do the same!


Thanks. Looking forward to seeing you set up as well.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I just realized my backplate is upside down. /facepalm. I suppose it doesn't matter in the end as long as the pegs are in the holes all the way.
> 
> yes, reading instructions does help - there is a correct orientation to avoid the socket screws.
> 
> P.S. pfft, instructions...
> 
> *Edit: nice build @Duke976, thanks for sharing. I plan on going a similar route once I add my GPUs, need to find some plasticizer-free red tubing though. Did you have to sharpie the red plate on the block to get it red? or some transparent film of some sort?*


Thanks, the H140 comes with interchangeable color for the cpu block. Red-White-Green-Blue. Hope that helps.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Thanks, the H140 comes with interchangeable color for the cpu block. Red-White-Green-Blue. Hope that helps.


hmm, H240-X looks quite orange with the red plate. maybe swiftech changed the design with the -X ones.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all here is my finished project. Still need to work a bit on the cables in the rear but I think i'm 90% done.. What do you all think...


----------



## starrbuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I just realized my backplate is upside down. /facepalm. I suppose it doesn't matter in the end as long as the pegs are in the holes all the way.
> 
> yes, reading instructions does help - there is a correct orientation to avoid the socket screws.
> 
> P.S. pfft, instructions...


Real men don't read instructions!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> hmm, H240-X looks quite orange with the red plate.


Yes, it is more on the orange side than red, unfortunately.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all here is my finished project. Still need to work a bit on the cables in the rear but I think i'm 90% done.. What do you all think...


temps pls


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all here is my finished project. Still need to work a bit on the cables in the rear but I think i'm 90% done.. What do you all think...


That looks awesome!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I have no idea when mine arrives, or if it's even shipped, but I'll let you know how it goes.


Yes, it was shipped. You should be receiving it soon.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks awesome!


I agree the uv light makes it pop...especially the water block looks so cool


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> temps pls


When idle and 100% pump i'm at 9C. When I turn it down to 30% it goes to around 12-13C. Running a test 100% CPU and 100% GPU CPU is around 35C and GPU is only at 50-55CC that is running for 5minutes.

I can do some screen shots later.

Amazing product can't complain at all.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello, I want to change the stock coolers that brings h220x, what would you recommend?
> 
> thanks


can anyone help me?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> can anyone help me?


What exactly do you need help with? recommendations on what water cooler to get depend largely on your chassis, cooling needs, and how much you're willing to deal with maintenance and difficulty of installation.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> can anyone help me?


If you mean the fans here is what I have on mine work great....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q6RUVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## zu903

Mine just shipped today does hose size play a factor in these i wanna get some new connectors and tubing for it


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Mine just shipped today does hose size play a factor in these i wanna get some new connectors and tubing for it


from what I've read there isn't a lot of difference going from 3/8 (id of h series) to 1/2 inch id...size for h series is g1/4 3/8id x 5/8od..


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> from what I've read there isn't a lot of difference going from 3/8 (id of h series) to 1/2 inch id...size for h series is g1/4 3/8id x 5/8od..


thanks, Ill post some pics this weekend after i set it up


----------



## royalkilla408

Can anyone recommend the most compact case that fits the H220-X for ATX motherboard? Thanks! Haven't looked into cases for ATX in a while.


----------



## shanker

Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and the rad from my H220.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and the rad from my H220.


Great clean looking build


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and the rad from my H220.


Nice and clean. Well done!


----------



## s74r1

little off topic, but can anyone recommend some 140mm high pressure quiet (preferrably PWM) fans for mounting upside down horizontal? sleeve-type bearings have been awful in this position, and the swiftech double helix fans are loud upside down.

been considering some noctua fans, hoping the SSO/SSO2 bearings do well horizontal. unsure about Phantek's "UFB (Updraft Floating Balance)" bearing, sounds like sleeve to me - but they have some nice high pressure fans. gentle typhoons don't seem to come in 140mm though.


----------



## VSG

There are some nice 140mm fans coming out, Corsair's new SP140L for example really impressed me- quite loud at full speed but backs it up with airflow too. I haven't had any experience with the Swiftech 140mm offerings myself but the Noctua 120mm SSO2 fans are quite fine horizontally or vertical in my opinion (20+ hours in each orientation tested out). Their performance on a radiator isn't exactly all that the hype around them seem to be though- remember Noctua is a air cooling company and the fans were really made for their heatsinks.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There are some nice 140mm fans coming out, Corsair's new SP140L for example really impressed me- quite loud at full speed but backs it up with airflow too. I haven't had any experience with the Swiftech 140mm offerings myself but the Noctua 120mm SSO2 fans are quite fine horizontally or vertical in my opinion (20+ hours in each orientation tested out). Their performance on a radiator isn't exactly all that the hype around them seem to be though- remember Noctua is a air cooling company and the fans were really made for their heatsinks.


Corsair uses FDB or another type of sleeve bearing unfortunately - those operate poorly horizontal (increased noise, decreased reliability, longevity, etc). swiftech's double helix 140's are probably identical to the 120's, seems to be some kind of sleeve bearing. I can see them sag lower when used upside down. can really hear them rev up and down too and they get hot. fan blades seem similar to typhoons though, but probably with a modified sleeve type bearing. (no info on their Z-axis bearing that I could find).

It's unfortunate that Noctua doesn't offer high pressure 140's like their 120's, but the new industrial series seem to have good pressure. Still unsure about those Phanteks they seem to be a decent clone of Noctua, but come in radiator-optimized versions (fins look just like Corsair's SP series).


----------



## VSG

These fans here are brushless ones, I don't see where you are seeing any sleeve bearing mentioned on them.

I tested out the Phanteks one- really good, but mostly silence optimized. Not the high pressure/airflow you were looking for necessarily.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These fans here are brushless ones, I don't see where you are seeing any sleeve bearing mentioned on them.
> 
> I tested out the Phanteks one- really good, but mostly silence optimized. Not the high pressure/airflow you were looking for necessarily.


well I am looking for silence, couldn't dig up any info on those bearings except a review site saying UFB: translation - sleeve. not sure how they came to that conclusion. I did notice the Newegg page mentioning DC Brushless somewhere, which should be ball bearing but I don't know how accurate that is.

Edit: it appears DC Brushless can also be sleeve, this just refers to the motor driving it.

Edit2: btw does anyone know if Swiftech sells the G1/4" swivel elbows with compression barb/clamp built in like these H220/H240's have? I'd love to have a system with matching fittings when I expand to GPUs. the ones on Swiftech's site look really large and still need a barb/compression fitting on the end of the elbow. (Edit: nevermind, Swiftech support told me they don't sell them)


----------



## royalkilla408

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Nice and clean. Well done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Evolv with an H220X and the rad from my H220.


I agree. Very nice build. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## Duke976

Aging H220 still alive and kicking, thanks to Swiftech again for the O-rings. Transferred it to my son's rig.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Corsair uses FDB or another type of sleeve bearing unfortunately - those operate poorly horizontal (increased noise, decreased reliability, longevity, etc). swiftech's double helix 140's are probably identical to the 120's, seems to be some kind of sleeve bearing. I can see them sag lower when used upside down. can really hear them rev up and down too and they get hot. fan blades seem similar to typhoons though, but probably with a modified sleeve type bearing. (no info on their Z-axis bearing that I could find).
> 
> It's unfortunate that Noctua doesn't offer high pressure 140's like their 120's, but the new industrial series seem to have good pressure. Still unsure about those Phanteks they seem to be a decent clone of Noctua, but come in radiator-optimized versions (fins look just like Corsair's SP series).


Well FWIW, I'm using the Phanteks 140MP on my H240x and they're actually pretty darn good. Good replacement for the Helix 140? I'd say yeah. I don't like the hum on the Helix 140 when they go above 1200rpm, the 140MP does stay relatively silent up until 1500rpm and tops out around 1800rpm (not 1600rpm on their specs sheet).

As for Noctua, sorry... but I cannot swallow my own pride to pay an extra $10 for terrible colors (no, if going PPC is an option I'd rather pay 3x less and get Deltas) and overhype. Not saying they aren't good fans, because they are but certainly not worth the extra premium IMHO.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Corsair uses FDB or another type of sleeve bearing unfortunately - those operate poorly horizontal (increased noise, decreased reliability, longevity, etc). swiftech's double helix 140's are probably identical to the 120's, seems to be some kind of sleeve bearing. I can see them sag lower when used upside down. can really hear them rev up and down too and they get hot. fan blades seem similar to typhoons though, but probably with a modified sleeve type bearing. (no info on their Z-axis bearing that I could find).
> 
> It's unfortunate that Noctua doesn't offer high pressure 140's like their 120's, but the new industrial series seem to have good pressure. Still unsure about those Phanteks they seem to be a decent clone of Noctua, but come in radiator-optimized versions (fins look just like Corsair's SP series).


The true FDB ones (Corsair SP1xxL, Noctua SSO*2*) are actually better than ball bearings in reliability, noise and longevity, the trouble is that there's a LOT of modified sleeve bearings (rifle bearings, and other variants) out there that claim to be FDB but are not. Oh, and only up to a certain RPM - to the best of my knowledge, the fastest FDB fan would be the Noctua 3000rpm industrial models. Anything higher you'll find are almost always double ball bearing. Sunon Maglev tech is another interesting design, and really rather excellent (I'll take a bunch of 40mm 8200rpm Maglevs over 8200rpm DBB Deltas any time just because they sound much nicer, despite not being much quieter), but are bloody impossible to find at 120mm, and again, speed limits - Sunon's ultra-high-speed fans only do ~150CFM (compared to Delta, SanAce and Nidec 250CFM beasts), and at that end of the scale, is back to DBB.

Honestly, I'd say get the PWM Noctuas and be done with it.

EDIT: On the noctuas, gimme a few more days to get mine and I'll tell you how the motor sounds. Damn international shipping....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> The true FDB ones (Corsair SP1xxL, Noctua SSO*2*) are actually better than ball bearings in reliability, noise and longevity, the trouble is that there's a LOT of modified sleeve bearings (rifle bearings, and other variants) out there that claim to be FDB but are not. Oh, and only up to a certain RPM - to the best of my knowledge, the fastest FDB fan would be the Noctua 3000rpm industrial models. Anything higher you'll find are almost always double ball bearing. Sunon Maglev tech is another interesting design, and really rather excellent (I'll take a bunch of 40mm 8200rpm Maglevs over 8200rpm DBB Deltas any time just because they sound much nicer, despite not being much quieter), but are bloody impossible to find at 120mm, and again, speed limits - Sunon's ultra-high-speed fans only do ~150CFM (compared to Delta, SanAce and Nidec 250CFM beasts), and at that end of the scale, is back to DBB.
> 
> Honestly, I'd say get the PWM Noctuas and be done with it.
> 
> EDIT: On the noctuas, gimme a few more days to get mine and I'll tell you how the motor sounds. Damn international shipping....


Noctuas have not fared all that well in airflow / noise testing when placed against a restriction like a rad. For example, the pics and vid links below show how the Noctua NF-F12 PWM w/ the SSO2 bearing fared against the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 in fan-on-rad airflow noise testing done by MartinsLiquidLab. I grabbed some comparative screenshots from the testing vids but you can watch them and see / hear for yourself:

Noctua-NF-F12





GentleTyphoon AP-15









As you can see, it's not even close in terms of performance on a rad.

And Noctua's MTBF rating isn't any better than the Gentle Typhoons either. Don't know where you are get the idea that somehow they are somehow better in reliability or longevity. Ive never yet seen any type of sleeve bearing (that includes FDB) outlast ball bearing fans especially when run in a horizontal position.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Noctuas have not fared all that well in airflow / noise testing when placed against a restriction like a rad. For example, the pics and vid links below show how the Noctua NF-F12 PWM w/ the SSO2 bearing fared against the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 in fan-on-rad airflow noise testing done by MartinsLiquidLab. I grabbed some comparative screenshots from the testing vids but you can watch them and see / hear for yourself:
> 
> Noctua-NF-F12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GentleTyphoon AP-15
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, it's not even close in terms of performance on a rad.
> 
> And Noctua's MTBF rating isn't any better than the Gentle Typhoons either. Don't know where you are get the idea that somehow they are somehow better in reliability or longevity. Ive never yet seen any type of sleeve bearing (that includes FDB) outlast ball bearing fans especially when run in a horizontal position.


1850 vs 1500rpm.. not a very fair comparison if you ask me









Plus, the GTs have availability issues, so it takes a fair bit of searching before you get them, then pay import costs etc...

When I really care about performance that much, I'll just skip all the slow, overrated PC fans and get some real high-performance, PWM-controlled 250CFM beasts from San Ace, Delta or Nidec instead.

As for the reliability/longevity side of the equation, that's just what I've read. no personal experience or testing involved.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> 1850 vs 1500rpm.. not a very fair comparison if you ask me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus, the GTs have availability issues, so it takes a fair bit of searching before you get them, then pay import costs etc...
> 
> When I really care about performance that much, I'll just skip all the slow, overrated PC fans and get some real high-performance, PWM-controlled 250CFM beasts from San Ace, Delta or Nidec instead.
> 
> As for the reliability/longevity side of the equation, that's just what I've read. no personal experience or testing involved.


Not sure why it wouldn't be fair. Who cares how fast a fan's blades are spinning? Fan speeds are a completely irrelevant factor. The ONLY thing that matters in comparison is how much airflow each fan is able to push through the rad at a similar dB noise level (or how much noise they produce at a similar amount of airflow) and the GT beats the Noctua by a large margin every step along the way. In fact, just go look at Martin's site. Noctuas don't fare so well against many fans. They're pretty average.

And 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons are still widely available at least in the US and UK. Nidec never quit making them and Coolerguys has been getting new stock for a good while now that they sell through their site and on Amazon US and Amazon UK. If you're in Canada Dazmode is doing similar and now taking pre-orders. And if you are in Asia there's apparently never been a shortage there.

----
edit:
As far as higher speed fans go, the Delta VHE did rather well in testing, performing on a similar noise / airflow trajectory as the Gentle Typhoons, just at much louder and higher airflow levels. If you are not bothered by an 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon at full speed, well, that's about where in noise and airflow that the Delta's begin.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/



http://imgur.com/I4VHtUX


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Hey guys quick ? Do y'all know if the tubes have an issue with plasticizer? I read on a forum that was dated a few months ago saying some people were complaining about the tubing on the coolers and was wanting to know whether that was fixed?


----------



## vkvkvvk

Hi Guys, I am planning to buy a H220X for my old 800D case. [It should fit right?]

I have some spare 3x gentle typhoon ap-15 1850rpm fans that have been used for around 2 years. Is it advisable to swap the default fans from h220x and use all 3 of ap-15s instead?


----------



## VSG

Yes, but note that these are not PWM fans. So you have to control them separately. On the plus side, you don't have to use the PWM splitter anymore and can directly hook up the pump to the CPU fan header.


----------



## CSHawkeye

So I have some SP120 fans for this H220-X that I am putting onto one of my rigs. Should these fans do the job?


----------



## VSG

QE or HPE? I dare say the stock fans on a PWM curve may well perform similar on this rad, if not slightly better. I haven't tested out the SP120s just yet though on these rads.


----------



## CSHawkeye

The Quiet Editions, I really just want a quiet good performing machine for my 5960x.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> The Quiet Editions, I really just want a quiet good performing machine for my 5960x.


I would have to dig around for it, but the Quiet Editions were tested against the stock Helix a couple of times. The Helix fans are quieter and slightly better performing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> The Quiet Editions, I really just want a quiet good performing machine for my 5960x.


The max RPM on the QE fans is a lot lower so it will be quieter from the get go at the cost of airflow. As far as performance from an airflow/noise level or at the same RPM, I will find out soon how these fans stack up!


----------



## zu903

Mine will be here tomorrow and im gonna replace all the hoses and fittings. With these can i measure it all out test fit, then bench bleed it and make sure there are no leaks then install?


----------



## goldswimmerb

I just got one of these (switch H220X) and love it... How would I say go about adding more to it? Would I need a special adapter or would I just need to buy the fittings and tubing and the block or radiator I want to add?


----------



## Mega Man

if you use a different size tubing you will need an adapter for the pump all others are g1/4

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## shamus20

so i am no sure if anyone has this issue, but i have noticed that i have a crack in the window of my reservoir. it is pretty small but i am sure that it was not there before.


----------



## Dry Bonez

how the heck do people add a 3rd fan to the H220x when it supports only 2? does it make a difference? or is that for looks?

I am also in the market for really good radiator fans,im planning on changing the stock fans.Are there any good radiator fans with LED?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how the heck do people add a 3rd fan to the H220x when it supports only 2? does it make a difference? or is that for looks?
> 
> I am also in the market for really good radiator fans,im planning on changing the stock fans.Are there any good radiator fans with LED?


It supports three fans - two on the radiator on the opposite side of the pump, plus one next to the pump. Performance gains would be somewhere between non-existent and minimal doing a one sided push/pull on a thin, low fpi radiator.

The only good radiator fans I can think of off the top of my head that are available with LEDs are the Cooler Master JetFlos.


----------



## benbenkr

^
Cooler Master Jetflos will not screw on properly to the H220x though, at least not with the long screws that comes within the package. This is due to the threaded screw holes on the fan.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It supports three fans - two on the radiator on the opposite side of the pump, plus one next to the pump. Performance gains would be somewhere between non-existent and minimal doing a one sided push/pull on a thin, low fpi radiator.
> 
> The only good radiator fans I can think of off the top of my head that are available with LEDs are the Cooler Master JetFlos.


funny,because i have one jetflo fan and it is the LOUEST fan ever. Or is it because i have it at the bottom of my case? i have a cooler master storm stryker case and it is mounted at the bottom. also, the 3rd fan,should it be in pull or push config?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> ^
> Cooler Master Jetflos will not screw on properly to the H220x though, at least not with the long screws that comes within the package. This is due to the threaded screw holes on the fan.


do you mean that going on the side or on top? do people suggest the CM jetflo on the rad?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> funny,because i have one jetflo fan and it is the LOUEST fan ever. Or is it because i have it at the bottom of my case? i have a cooler master storm stryker case and it is mounted at the bottom. also, the 3rd fan,should it be in pull or push config?
> do you mean that going on the side or on top? do people suggest the CM jetflo on the rad?


JetFlos are insanely loud if you let them ramp up, simply because they move a ton of air. You asked for LEDs....only fan I could think of that has decent static pressure and lights up.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Aerocool DS fans have leds


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> so i am no sure if anyone has this issue, but i have noticed that i have a crack in the window of my reservoir. it is pretty small but i am sure that it was not there before.


is it near the bleed screw? it's been a rather common occurrence lately, supposedly from shipping in cold weather. i'd suggest contacting swiftech for RMA before it starts leaking. or seal it up with some silicone or something (probably not a long term solution). seems to crop up a few weeks after receiving the unit.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> so i am no sure if anyone has this issue, but i have noticed that i have a crack in the window of my reservoir. it is pretty small but i am sure that it was not there before.


Please PM me about this so that I can assist you with getting this taken care of.


----------



## starrbuck

I am using two of these on my 280mm radiator and they are fantastic:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200067


----------



## erso44

How long will it take to start the first delivery of the h240x?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> How long will it take to start the first delivery of the h240x?


Unfortunately, I don't have any information on that as of right now. We're looking at improving our distribution of these kits and improving the speed of production as well, to meet demand.


----------



## s74r1

Ugh, now my H240-X has a crack developing in the bleed screw too now. Owned it for exactly 2 weeks, looked fine when i first got it but must have had micro fractures which slowly expanded as it was used. it did arrive in below freezing temp weather though, but the liquid wasn't frozen or anything.

sent pm to @BramSLI1


----------



## mbze430

I am not a owner (yet...maybe)... I have a few questions.

1) I am currently running a Thermaltake Water 2.0 PRO (1x120MM with thicker rad core)
2) using 2xTyphoon 120mm AP-14 in push pull (intake)
3) I7-4790k delid with Liquid Ultra on BOTH die/IHS/Waterblock

I am NOT very happy with temps right now. avg 83C with OCCT 4.4.1 running at 4.6ghz with vcore/vid 1.226

I don't know if anyone else came from another AIO, but I like to know how much of a temp drop I can expect. Ultimately I want to run higher freq. I don't want to spend $160+ to only drop 3C. Any input would be great. I am looking at the H220-X, I have Antec P280 case.. so I can't mount 140 or 2x140 Rads

Thanks


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> I am not a owner (yet...maybe)... I have a few questions.
> 
> 1) I am currently running a Thermaltake Water 2.0 PRO (1x120MM with thicker rad core)
> 2) using 2xTyphoon 120mm AP-14 in push pull (intake)
> 3) I7-4790k delid with Liquid Ultra on BOTH die/IHS/Waterblock
> 
> I am NOT very happy with temps right now. avg 83C with OCCT 4.4.1 running at 4.6ghz with vcore/vid 1.226
> 
> I don't know if anyone else came from another AIO, but I like to know how much of a temp drop I can expect. Ultimately I want to run higher freq. I don't want to spend $160+ to only drop 3C. Any input would be great. I am looking at the H220-X, I have Antec P280 case.. so I can't mount 140 or 2x140 Rads
> 
> Thanks


these Swiftech kits are a HUGE step up from other AIO's since they use high performance blocks, pumps, and copper radiators. AIO's usually have weak pumps, cheap coldplate blocks, and aluminum radiators. I came from a Kraken x60 and even with fans on full blast I couldn't keep from thermal throttling under IBT, now I barely reach 65c core temps. I can even run the latest AVX2 prime95 without thermal throttling - so yeah, HUGE difference.

fact is, you can push as much airflow as you want through those other Asetek based AIO's but they'll still be limited by the waterblock, pump, and radiator (to a lesser degree). that thermaltake is an Asetek design, btw, as most of those CLC's are.


----------



## erso44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have any information on that as of right now. We're looking at improving our distribution of these kits and improving the speed of production as well, to meet demand.


pls update us


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erso44*
> 
> pls update us


I will as soon as I have more information.


----------



## mbze430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> these Swiftech kits are a HUGE step up from other AIO's since they use high performance blocks, pumps, and copper radiators. AIO's usually have weak pumps, cheap coldplate blocks, and aluminum radiators. I came from a Kraken x60 and even with fans on full blast I couldn't keep from thermal throttling under IBT, now I barely reach 65c core temps. I can even run the latest AVX2 prime95 without thermal throttling - so yeah, HUGE difference.
> 
> fact is, you can push as much airflow as you want through those other Asetek based AIO's but they'll still be limited by the waterblock, pump, and radiator (to a lesser degree). that thermaltake is an Asetek design, btw, as most of those CLC's are.


Speaking of airflow... since I have those Gentle Typhoon AP-14, will they perform better than the Helix? OR maybe I can mount all of them in a Push/Pull configuration Push-GT-AP14 and Pull-Helix? Is that possible? Are there mounting holes on the both side of the rad?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> Speaking of airflow... since I have those Gentle Typhoon AP-14, will they perform better than the Helix? OR maybe I can mount all of them in a Push/Pull configuration Push-GT-AP14 and Pull-Helix? Is that possible? Are there mounting holes on the both side of the rad?


the gentle typhoons are reportedly a bit more efficient than the double helix fans, but both have a VERY similar fan blade structure so they should play nice together. if you go back a page or two there's more info it. basically the helix fans are a little bit louder, but still a great value and magnitudes better than most stock CLC fans. at this price point you can't really expect much better, they chose a good price/performance fan.

Edit: I have noticed, however, if you mount them upside-down horizontally the blades sag making the bearings/motor a bit noisier. also the PWM IC isn't as graceful as some other brands, like noctua, you can hear them rev up and down with fan speed changes. but this might be exacerbated due to my upside-down mounting, and because I run them at very low speeds in a silent PC. my bios fan profile can probably be further optimized too. your results may vary.

overall these are a great product and a great value considering the price if you added up everything separately. combined with the fact that it uses standard easily replaceable or re-usable G1/4" fittings with 5/8" OD and 3/8" ID (which can be changed to any size tubing with replacement fittings) so you can expand with more radiators or add GPU and VRM waterblocks to the loop too. barring of course the recent weather-induced bleed screw issues, but Swiftech support and RMA is excellent if you do happen to be one of the unlucky ones to receive a unit that develops micro fractures and eventually cracks due to shipping in cold weather. I'm sure they're working on a new revision to fix this, if they haven't already - mine seems to have a manufacture date of march 2014. A+ for swiftech having a presence on OC.net too with super fast response time. thanks @BramSLI1


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> the gentle typhoons are reportedly a bit more efficient than the double helix fans, but both have a VERY similar fan blade structure so they should play nice together. if you go back a page or two there's more info it. basically the helix fans are a bit louder, but still a great value and magnitudes better than most stock CLC fans.
> 
> Edit: I have noticed, however, if you mount them upside-down horizontally the blades sag making the bearings/motor a bit noisier. the PWM IC isn't as graceful as some other brands, like noctua, you can hear them rev up and down with fan speed changes. but this might be exacerbated due to my upside-down mounting, and because I run them at very low speeds in a silent PC.
> 
> overall these are a great product and a great value considering the price if you added up everything separately. barring of course the recent weather-induced bleed screw issues, but Swiftech support and RMA is excellent if you do happen to be one of the unlucky ones to receive a unit that develops micro fractures and eventually cracks due to shipping in cold weather. I'm sure they're working on a new revision to fix this, if they haven't already - mine seems to have a manufacture date of march 2014


Glad to be of service.









And yes, we have revised the window. The material has been annealed and reinforced.


----------



## mbze430

Cool, so I take it that both side of the radiator can mount fans.. I wasn't sure if the pump and reservoir was blocking it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> Cool, so I take it that both side of the radiator can mount fans.. I wasn't sure if the pump and reservoir was blocking it.


Both sides can, but the side with the pump and reservoir can only fit one fan.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> is it near the bleed screw? it's been a rather common occurrence lately, supposedly from shipping in cold weather. i'd suggest contacting swiftech for RMA before it starts leaking. or seal it up with some silicone or something (probably not a long term solution). seems to crop up a few weeks after receiving the unit.


if you look at the photo album of my system, i did not receive the h220x with any known defects, but i guess if there is an issue with if showing up a month and a half after i had purchase then i will contact swiftech. either it was during delivery or it might have formed over the last month (since i do not have proper heating in my room).


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Aerocool DS fans have leds


i am about to make my purchase, do you prefer the aerocool DS fans or the phanteks mp for the top of my H220X?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Both sides can, but the side with the pump and reservoir can only fit one fan.


Hey Bram,im having a hard time trying to put a 3rd fan to the rad, do i need those long screws or something? also,i have bothe Helix fans in push config, should i put the 3rd for pull?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i am about to make my purchase, do you prefer the aerocool DS fans or the phanteks mp for the top of my H220X?
> Hey Bram,im having a hard time trying to put a 3rd fan to the rad, do i need those long screws or something? also,i have bothe Helix fans in push config, should i put the 3rd for pull?


Yes, you'll need to use the 30mm long radiator screws. Also, you'll want the flow of air to be going in one direction. If the top fans are in a pull configuration then you'll want the bottom one in a push. I hope that makes sense.


----------



## zu903

Just got done bleeding mine and have it just running now to check for leaks i have it hooked up to a psu with a jumper on it. This is my first time using water cooling an i was wondering how loud should the pump be? mines not super loud but i can for sure hear it. Does not sound like it has air in the pump. Might just be since it plugged into only a psu its at 100% speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Just got done bleeding mine and have it just running now to check for leaks i have it hooked up to a psu with a jumper on it. This is my first time using water cooling an i was wondering how loud should the pump be? mines not super loud but i can for sure hear it. Does not sound like it has air in the pump. Might just be since it plugged into only a psu its at 100% speed.


Naturally the pump running at 100% is going to be louder than normal operation. The pump will also be louder during the bleed process as bubbles pass through, that and the aquarium-like noises will disappear once air is gone from the system.

Once you have the system installed properly, the pump is extremely quiet. It is designed so that the pump is never heard over the fans.


----------



## JohnReid

Whelp,

My previously flushing-the-toilet-noisy-as-hell CM Glacer 240L is now "dead" silent&#8230;. and I'm suddenly getting a "No CPU fan" error when I start up, and there is NO gurgling at initial start-up anymore.

I have a feeling the pump is dust; gotta love planned obsolescence.







Going to check if it's still within warranty.

Unfortunately, I think AIO coolers still have too many lemons in the mix to be used with full confidence.

I'm going back to air; this is a work rig, and having down time like this is bad for business., and a waste of my billable hours.

TL, DR: Air is better for 100% uptime; H2O is for tweakers with a lot of spare time


----------



## zu903

Finally got mine leak tested and up and running. Getting some great temps 28 at idle and 56 on full load at stock clock. whole lot better than my hyper 212. Gonna run it a day or two on stock clocks then see how far i can get it.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnReid*
> 
> Whelp,
> 
> My previously flushing-the-toilet-noisy-as-hell CM Glacer 240L is now "dead" silent&#8230;. and I'm suddenly getting a "No CPU fan" error when I start up, and there is NO gurgling at initial start-up anymore.
> 
> I have a feeling the pump is dust; gotta love planned obsolescence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to check if it's still within warranty.
> 
> Unfortunately, I think AIO coolers still have too many lemons in the mix to be used with full confidence.
> 
> I'm going back to air; this is a work rig, and having down time like this is bad for business., and a waste of my billable hours.
> 
> TL, DR: Air is better for 100% uptime; H2O is for tweakers with a lot of spare time


Well did you do anything with the cooler before it started being silent? Have you tried having a look inside?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnReid*
> 
> Whelp,
> 
> My previously flushing-the-toilet-noisy-as-hell CM Glacer 240L is now "dead" silent&#8230;. and I'm suddenly getting a "No CPU fan" error when I start up, and there is NO gurgling at initial start-up anymore.
> 
> I have a feeling the pump is dust; gotta love planned obsolescence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to check if it's still within warranty.
> 
> Unfortunately, I think AIO coolers still have too many lemons in the mix to be used with full confidence.
> 
> I'm going back to air; this is a work rig, and having down time like this is bad for business., and a waste of my billable hours.
> 
> TL, DR: Air is better for 100% uptime; H2O is for tweakers with a lot of spare time


air will always be the best option for reliability...however in water cooling it pays to maintenance the system even before it's recommended...I make changes often lately so that gives me a chance to ensure everything is working as it should...but my pcs aren't used for work if they were I wouldn't have a water loop...I don't have a lot of time to spend tweaking and messing about but I do love my water loop and once you start building and expanding its very addictive...if you were getting a "flushing the toilet" sound you probably had air in the loop that can kill a pump...only takes probably 10 seconds to possibly kill one if its sucking on straight air


----------



## Vincentec

My Swiftech H220 started getting the infamous air bubble noise after 7 month. i have followed bryan's suggestion with no success. what can i do now?


First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You'll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You'll also want your pump running while you're doing this.
Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.
If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don't end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.
Another thing you can try is to kink the tubing coming off of the outlet port for a couple of seconds. This can cause the pump to increase pressure and when you release the tubing this can force the bubble out of the pump.

These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vincentec*
> 
> My Swiftech H220 started getting the infamous air bubble noise after 7 month. i have followed bryan's suggestion with no success. what can i do now?
> 
> 
> First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You'll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You'll also want your pump running while you're doing this.
> Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.
> If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don't end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.
> Another thing you can try is to kink the tubing coming off of the outlet port for a couple of seconds. This can cause the pump to increase pressure and when you release the tubing this can force the bubble out of the pump.
> 
> These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water.


@Bryan

I thought you can't dislodge air bubbles without draining the kit and refilling it back (bleeding)? Or is it different with the H220X?


----------



## krew

hello,

@BramSLI1
can i ask why Swiftech products arent avaible in Europe (Poland to be more specific), i heared that U have some trouble with your distributor? are there any news ? im interested in H240-x or even in H340-x







(if thats gonna happen), but i cant seem to find a shop selling anything..
any kind of help/info would be apreciated, thanks!

or maybe U guys know where i can buy H240-x in Europe.. or got any info ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Bryan
> 
> I thought you can't dislodge air bubbles without draining the kit and refilling it back (bleeding)? Or is it different with the H220X?


that is a way to dislodge air however I can't recommend the last one of kinking the hose...but I would try these first without unmounting but even if you remove the air from the pump you still must get it to the fillport and top it off or the air will just circulate back through


----------



## JohnReid

Yeah, mfknjadagr8, I know, I know









I was on these boards when first got the unit back at the end of 2013:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/8450

The rez was underfilled from factory, so out of the box it was giving me problems.

After screwing around with it for 2 days (and running it for 24 hrs to get the "bubbles" out), I threw my hands up and dealt with the gurgling noises, since temps were good.

Only on last Saturday did the machine start up with a "no CPU fan" error, and I realized that the pump was no longer making it's trademark gurgling noise. Took it out and tested it using an old PSU, and no dice.

I've sent Cooler Master a trouble ticket, since I'm still within the 2 year warranty.

We'll see what they say; currently using the stock cooler that came with my CPU.

Suffice it to say that my next rig will use air again; maybe I'll repurpose the Glacer for cooling the GPU.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Bryan
> 
> I thought you can't dislodge air bubbles without draining the kit and refilling it back (bleeding)? Or is it different with the H220X?


Those instructions are for an H220, not the H220-X.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krew*
> 
> hello,
> 
> @BramSLI1
> can i ask why Swiftech products arent avaible in Europe (Poland to be more specific), i heared that U have some trouble with your distributor? are there any news ? im interested in H240-x or even in H340-x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if thats gonna happen), but i cant seem to find a shop selling anything..
> any kind of help/info would be apreciated, thanks!
> 
> or maybe U guys know where i can buy H240-x in Europe.. or got any info ?


Unfortunately, I have no new information at this time. When I do get new information I will post it here.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those instructions are for an H220, not the H220-X.


That's what I thought. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## krew

@BramSLI1
hopefully something will change in a month time or we will have more info... Otherwise i might just try to ship H240-X from US..


----------



## drop24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Not properly preparing, being impatient, and using the wrong tools are why people have failed at both methods. Hammer/vise/block of wood seems less prone to errors though.
> 
> Direct die is being done by a few people around here. Completely depends on your setup but you would get 3 to 7c better I think. The key is getting just the right amount of pressure. Too little and it will not boot, too much and it won't boot as well as possibly damaging the chip.


Will direct die mounting work with the H220-X block's mounting system or do you need to mod it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> Will direct die mounting work with the H220-X block's mounting system or do you need to mod it?


Yes, you'll likely need to mod it for direct die mounting. Our Apogee water blocks weren't designed for direct die mounting.


----------



## EarlZ

Yesterday the H220X pump that was sent to me started to make a racket again, ill try to clean the loop over the weekend see if it goes away.. It was working flawlessly since it was replaced last june.


----------



## Allygash

Anyone any idea how the H240-X performs vs the Swiftech h320(with 3 sanyo denki's undervolted)? The reason I ask is i have just received a new H240-X as a RMA for an old H220 . The H320 is currently cooling a i7 5930k @4.4 I want to use one of them to cool two titans with waterblocks. Question is which one is best suited for which? Does the new CPU block n pump out perform the H320?

Alternatively If i only kept one which would be the best to expand to include both the i75930 and two titans? I'm guessing i might require another rad for that setup?

Case: NZXT phantom 820, ambients can get warm(30+), I'm in Singapore.

Any advice, thanx in advance.


----------



## dodgethis

It's better to use the H240X to cool the Titans and the H320 on the CPU. It's not about performance, but rather, putting the loop together.

The 240X has both the pump, rad and reservoir integrated into one unit and it would easier to use that to create the basis for the loop cooling the Titans over the H320, which has the pump on the CPU block. If you use use the H320 to cool the Titans, you're going to waste the waterblock/pump unit as the waterblock would be cooling nothing. Also, you will want to add additional radiator for the GPU loop.


----------



## zu903

Ive been using mine for a few days now and was wondering should the pump and fans ramp up as the cpu load increases? im using the pwm that was included but its at a constant speed all the time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> Ive been using mine for a few days now and was wondering should the pump and fans ramp up as the cpu load increases? im using the pwm that was included but its at a constant speed all the time.


It depends on how you have the CPU fan header configured. You should be able to go into your BIOS and configure a fan curve that suits you.


----------



## sav4

It may have been asked already but so many pages to sort through.
I'm wondering if anyone sells the h240x in Australia or if any companies ship it internationally ?


----------



## ssgtnubb

I've got an idea, kinda crazy one but here goes; 240x for my CPU and (2) 140x for my 780 classifieds that are coming in all in a Corsair 540.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I've got an idea, kinda crazy one but here goes; 240x for my CPU and (2) 140x for my 780 classifieds that are coming in all in a Corsair 540.


Swap out the two H140-X for two MCR140-X Drive units and two FC blocks. Or just expand the H240-X by adding in rads and blocks.


----------



## ssgtnubb

That's the unit I was thinking of using, I've got the blocks already as part of the package deal with the cards. I'm going to think on all of this, I'd like to just add a 360 radiator but I think that would be pushing it on the single pump that's on my 240x and trying to fit all of this in a 540 is about to push me to buy a Caselabs case lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> It may have been asked already but so many pages to sort through.
> I'm wondering if anyone sells the h240x in Australia or if any companies ship it internationally ?


Unfortunately, we haven't found a suitable reseller as of yet in Australia. However, we do offer international shipping.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> That's the unit I was thinking of using, I've got the blocks already as part of the package deal with the cards. I'm going to think on all of this, I'd like to just add a 360 radiator but I think that would be pushing it on the single pump that's on my 240x and trying to fit all of this in a 540 is about to push me to buy a Caselabs case lol


With two GPUs you'd be better adding in a second pump to a open-looped 240x, and then adding the radiators you feel you need.


----------



## ssgtnubb

That's what I'm thinking, just figuring all this out.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> That's what I'm thinking, just figuring all this out.


yeah also having two pumps in the same loop gives redundancy and ease of filling/bleeding as opposed to 3 separate mini loops....would suck to lose a card or worse due to pump failure you might not notice in time


----------



## ssgtnubb

True, very true.


----------



## baconboys

I'm kind of in the same boat, I have a h320 that I was going to expand to include one of my two r9 290x's, one of which only gets to about 62 C ( powercolor pcs+) while the gigabyte runs up to about 75C but you comment about the backup pump got me thinking I might as well cool both cards, do you think I could get away with the 140x or just add the 220x. My cpu never get over 51C while gaming and idles around 23 C. I have room for either one. Having only one pump on three costly parts does seem like pushing my luck.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> I'm kind of in the same boat, I have a h320 that I was going to expand to include one of my two r9 290x's, one of which only gets to about 62 C ( powercolor pcs+) while the gigabyte runs up to about 75C but you comment about the backup pump got me thinking I might as well cool both cards, do you think I could get away with the 140x or just add the 220x. My cpu never get over 51C while gaming and idles around 23 C. I have room for either one. Having only one pump on three costly parts does seem like pushing my luck.


yeah I would go with second pump and res if you don't have one and another rad couldn't hurt if you have room
Edit: I just misread what you posted oops yeah if you have room the h220x would be a great addition however a swiftech rad with a separate res pump could be easier for filling and bleeding...really depends on space and how much trouble you wanna go through come maintenance time


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Unfortunately, we haven't found a suitable reseller as of yet in Australia. However, we do offer international shipping.


Thanks for the reply any idea when you will have more stock of the h240x ?
Will this fit in a phantek Enthoo luxe ?
Thankyou


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Thanks for the reply any idea when you will have more stock of the h240x ?
> Will this fit in a phantek Enthoo luxe ?
> Thankyou


It will fit in that Phantek case without a problem and we'll have these back in stock in about 4 to 5 weeks.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It will fit in that Phantek case without a problem and we'll have these back in stock in about 4 to 5 weeks.


That was quick no worries.
Thankyou for replying awesome service


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Thanks for the reply any idea when you will have more stock of the h240x ?
> Will this fit in a phantek Enthoo luxe ?
> Thankyou


In case you're interested actually seeing it, in HiTechLegion's review of the H240 X they mount it in a white Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## Flying Donkey

Anyone fit a H240 X in a 350d?


----------



## sav4

It's a bugger there is no australian stockist $120 in postage American that's almost the cost of the kit ?


----------



## Bludge

I know how you feel mate, I want some Swiftech gear, and the local distributor couldn't care less about actually selling it.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> I know how you feel mate, I want some Swiftech gear, and the local distributor couldn't care less about actually selling it.


Yer it's a bit like that eh. Frozen cpu shipping is $70 so I think I will go through them when they have stock as I need other stuff to ,unless I can't wait and I'll just grab some ek gear


----------



## zila

Frozen CPU is gone, you'll have to search elsewhere.


----------



## gdubc

Specialtech is gone now too...


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Frozen CPU is gone, you'll have to search elsewhere.


Well that sucks


----------



## fredocini

I have an Enthoo Luxe case and it has a fan hub. I've gotten some responses that the fans can go on the PWM Fan hub (which are 3 pin). Anyone know or have any experience on where I would connect the H240x pump? Would it still work on a 3-pin or does it require a 4 pin?


----------



## smex

Thinking about to order an 220X .. anyone got experience adding a 360 Rad + two GPU blocks
to it? Ive seen some dudes did this with no problems but i just wanted to ask here again.. anyone?


----------



## baconboys

Ok that last option might be the way to go because I wanted to put in a res anyway. Guess I'll visit their site and see what I can come up with. I run my 320 at bare minimum rpm and still get great temps so I think another 240 low fpi rad with a separate res and pump is a great idea and will make mounting a easier. Thanks for your help it's great to be able to get a second opinion and the posters on this site are very helpful.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I have an Enthoo Luxe case and it has a fan hub. I've gotten some responses that the fans can go on the PWM Fan hub (which are 3 pin). Anyone know or have any experience on where I would connect the H240x pump? Would it still work on a 3-pin or does it require a 4 pin?


The pump requires an actual PWM signal to operate properly. It will not work with voltage regulated headers, so no 3-pin headers. The hPahnteks hub is voltage regulated and can not control or properly power the pump, but it will be fine with the fans.


----------



## BabylonDown

Guys, I've been looking everywhere for the measurement. What is the depth of the H220 CPU block?

Also, what is the thickness of the aesthetic top piece?


----------



## ssgtnubb

I think I'm just going to pick up another 240x just for my 780's only instead of my (2)140x idea then all I'll need is some new tubing, barbs to fit in the ek blocks and a block bridge and I should be pretty much good to go.

A 240x shouldn't be a problem for (2) 780's Classified's I would imagine.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I think I'm just going to pick up another 240x just for my 780's only instead of my (2)140x idea then all I'll need is some new tubing, barbs to fit in the ek blocks and a block bridge and I should be pretty much good to go.
> 
> A 240x shouldn't be a problem for (2) 780's Classified's I would imagine.


yeah it's the cheaper route...and should handle it but you are using bare minimum rad space...however temps should be fine


----------



## BramSLI1

Just to let everyone know. I was mistaken when I said that the H240-X kits weren't going to be back in stock for several weeks. They are back in stock right now. It's the H220-X kits that won't be back in stock for several weeks. I'm sorry if I caused any confusion.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Is a 320x possibly in the works Bram?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Is a 320x possibly in the works Bram?


We are looking at it. However, we are just starting to look at how to design it, so such a product won't likely be available for about a year from now.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump requires an actual PWM signal to operate properly. It will not work with voltage regulated headers, so no 3-pin headers. The hPahnteks hub is voltage regulated and can not control or properly power the pump, but it will be fine with the fans.


Dang that sucks for me then. So if that's the case, I'm going to have to attach the PWM splitter from the H240X to the CPU header and my phanteks hub through SATA power?

My goal was to solely use the phanteks hub to run all my fans but of course the pump from the swiftech is required to be connected through CPU power. I guess I'll have to use the PWM splitter from the H240X. That brings up another question then... All my case fans are 3 pin; how would my case fans act on the 4-pin pwm splitter and how many fans maximum can i use on said splitter? (eg. can i add additional splitters on the 4-pin hub?)


----------



## sav4

About to order a h240x and was wondering would I have to pay any importing tax etc to get it into Australia?
Also if the pump dies can you just replace the pump or do u have to do the rad as well?


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> About to order a h240x and was wondering would I have to pay any importing tax etc to get it into Australia?
> Also if the pump dies can you just replace the pump or do u have to do the rad as well?


As long as its under $1000 your good to go without tax. Keep in mind warranties, as you say, if the pump dies your sending it back!!! or doing it yourself.

Where are you getting it from?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> As long as its under $1000 your good to go without tax. Keep in mind warranties, as you say, if the pump dies your sending it back!!! or doing it yourself.
> 
> Where are you getting it from?


Direct from swiftech cost $260 landed here can't see any other kits that can be expanded for that money don't really want to spend anymore as I have to get a new case as well just hope it is good for cooling my 4770k and quiet.
I don't mind fixing it myself as long as they send the parts for free not sure if they do


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Direct from swiftech cost $260 landed here can't see any other kits that can be expanded for that money don't really want to spend anymore as I have to get a new case as well just hope it is good for cooling my 4770k and quiet.
> I don't mind fixing it myself as long as they send the parts for free not sure if they do


The pump can be replaced with another swiftech pump







but lets hope that doesnt have to happen


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Dang that sucks for me then. So if that's the case, I'm going to have to attach the PWM splitter from the H240X to the CPU header and my phanteks hub through SATA power?
> 
> My goal was to solely use the phanteks hub to run all my fans but of course the pump from the swiftech is required to be connected through CPU power. I guess I'll have to use the PWM splitter from the H240X. That brings up another question then... All my case fans are 3 pin; how would my case fans act on the 4-pin pwm splitter and how many fans maximum can i use on said splitter? (eg. can i add additional splitters on the 4-pin hub?)


If you use those voltage regulated 3-pin fans on our splitter then you won't have any control over them and they'll default to full speed. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## Khiol

This is Khiol^3. Specs as follows.

Windows 8.1 Professional
Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor @ 4.2GHz (Can get 4.8GHz if I push it.)
Cooler Master Glacer 240L 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
IC Diamond synthetic diamond Thermal Paste
ASRock Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory CL9 (9-9-9-24)
Samsung 850 EVO 250gb Solid State Drive (System)
Corsair Force GT 240gb Solid State Drive (Games)
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Backup)
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Scratch Disk/Storage)
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card
Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor
Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Stealth Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard
Logitech G700s Wireless Laser Mouse


----------



## hellr4isEr

Did the tubing change or something? I just bought my h220x from micro center and the tubing is gray like my corsair AIO and not black/shiny like i see online and on videos.... what gives?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellr4isEr*
> 
> Did the tubing change or something? I just bought my h220x from micro center and the tubing is gray like my corsair AIO and not black/shiny like i see online and on videos.... what gives?


We are now using a rubber tubing that is a flat black due to plasticizer issues with the glossy black vinyl tubing we were previously using. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## hellr4isEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We are now using a rubber tubing that is a flat black due to plasticizer issues with the glossy black vinyl tubing we were previously using. I hope this answers your question.


makes sense.. thx


----------



## asgardthor

Anyone know if this is normal? tried my best to get a picture


----------



## ssgtnubb

Normal as in cooler of the water or the clarity of the acrylic, looks like mine if so and I've been running my setup for a month now with no issues.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We are now using a rubber tubing that is a flat black due to plasticizer issues with the glossy black vinyl tubing we were previously using. I hope this answers your question.


Any idea which tubing is on the H240-Xs currently in stock on your site? Assuming its the new rubber tubing since its new stock but I've been known to be wrong before lol


----------



## EarlZ

Despite having the pump replaced on my H220 for 4 times in total ( grinding noise started again 2 days ago after 6 months ) I still went with the H220X I just hope they totally fixed the issue. I also got the version with the non glossy tubes which I actually prefer.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Despite having the pump replaced on my H220 for 4 times in total ( grinding noise started again 2 days ago after 6 months ) I still went with the H220X I just hope they totally fixed the issue. I also got the version with the non glossy tubes which I actually prefer.


non glossy is neoprene based so plasticizer isn't an issue yay...I think it looks cleaner as well


----------



## EarlZ

Any tricks for removing the top plate? I used a thin card to remove the pins but the top plate is posing a challenge and I dont want to break it.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Any tricks for removing the top plate? I used a thin card to remove the pins but the top plate is posing a challenge and I dont want to break it.


I used a pair of needle nose pliers BUT be very very careful is you use anything like that, you can scratch it quite easily.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Any tricks for removing the top plate? I used a thin card to remove the pins but the top plate is posing a challenge and I dont want to break it.


xacto blade


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Any tricks for removing the top plate? I used a thin card to remove the pins but the top plate is posing a challenge and I dont want to break it.
> 
> 
> 
> xacto blade
Click to expand...

Didnt find a spot where I could slide it in on the corners of the top plate, I took a paper clip and bent it into a L shape to remove it


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Didnt find a spot where I could slide it in on the corners of the top plate, I took a paper clip and bent it into a L shape to remove it


actually someone posted before and said easiest way was to use electrical tape..totally forgot that until now


----------



## Gavush

yeah make a little tab out of tape. I don't suppose it matters what sort. Like this


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> yeah make a little tab out of tape. I don't suppose it matters what sort. Like this


I would recommend something that's not really tacky like electrical or masking tape so you don't have to clean residue....duct tape or gorilla tape would probably leave quite a bit more...another idea if you have children would be a dart or any small suction cup would be ideal...I was thinking the little dollar suction cup day gun darts


----------



## crazyxelite

Can I fit an h220x on a corsair 250d?


----------



## deehoC

Any Canadians from Ontario order directly from Swiftech? Just wondering what kind of fees I'm looking at when the package arrives at my door


----------



## icetray9000

Hi everyone. I just got my H220-X and noticed that in the resorvoir it looks like there is some sawdust or other brownish looking particles in the coolant? Is this some other material floating in there and is this normal? I am afraid to run it and damage the pump?

I think it might be sawdust because the outside radiator seemed to be covered in this fine particle / saw dust like material?

Thanks for your help


----------



## ssgtnubb

Ya that doesn't look good.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Can I fit an h220x on a corsair 250d?


http://pcpartpicker.com/b/KLYrxr this is a persons build with that cooler


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> yeah make a little tab out of tape. I don't suppose it matters what sort. Like this


This is genius, I'll use that method if I need to switch to another color.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icetray9000*
> 
> Hi everyone. I just got my H220-X and noticed that in the resorvoir it looks like there is some sawdust or other brownish looking particles in the coolant? Is this some other material floating in there and is this normal? I am afraid to run it and damage the pump?
> 
> I think it might be sawdust because the outside radiator seemed to be covered in this fine particle / saw dust like material?
> 
> Thanks for your help


Not only that but it looks like there is no coolant on the res?


----------



## icetray9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Not only that but it looks like there is no coolant on the res?


There is coolant in the res. I took these pictures within minutes of unboxing the H220-X. Nobody has seen these particles in their H220-X? It was packaged very well so I am not sure what is going on... Not sure if I should test it with these particles floating around in it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icetray9000*
> 
> There is coolant in the res. I took these pictures within minutes of unboxing the H220-X. Nobody has seen these particles in their H220-X? It was packaged very well so I am not sure what is going on... Not sure if I should test it with these particles floating around in it?


someone posted one awhile back with something simular.. pm BRAMSL1 and he will get you sorted out...


----------



## hellr4isEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icetray9000*
> 
> There is coolant in the res. I took these pictures within minutes of unboxing the H220-X. Nobody has seen these particles in their H220-X? It was packaged very well so I am not sure what is going on... Not sure if I should test it with these particles floating around in it?


i have that too.. called in and they said it's normal.. something about stuff they put in to keep the liquid clean or somthing?... i too took pictures.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Just came across this guy http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx?variation=260#tab4 which I'm thinking will be a good fit in my 540 to cool my 780's and the 240x will take care of my cpu. I like the idea with the x20 with the pump and res being in the unit like the 240x just to simplify the setup in my 540.


----------



## fatlardo

@ Bryan or anyone, will the H240X fit in the Corsair 500R?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellr4isEr*
> 
> i have that too.. called in and they said it's normal.. something about stuff they put in to keep the liquid clean or somthing?... i too took pictures.


what you have is not the same...yours is normal sediment it isn't yellowish and nowhere near that much...bram will sort it out for him


----------



## icetray9000

I just got the h220-x but I am not too happy with my temps. I have an x99 rampage V and i7 5820k oc to 4.5ghz at 1.3 volts (Case is corsair 780t). My load temps at max pump and fan speeds in aida64 after 10 minutes are about 80 degrees (ambient temp about 22 degrees celsius)? Is that normal? These are the same load temps as what I was getting with my h100i I just upgraded from. I tried reseating and reapplying thermal paste but same temps. What kind of temps are you getting with your h220x?
Does this sound like a normal temp at 1.3 volts?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatlardo*
> 
> @ Bryan or anyone, will the H240X fit in the Corsair 500R?


I have an H220-x in my 500R and it's a very tight fit. Might be possible with a little persuasion/modding.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icetray9000*
> 
> I just got the h220-x but I am not too happy with my temps. I have an x99 rampage V and i7 5820k oc to 4.5ghz at 1.3 volts (Case is corsair 780t). My load temps at max pump and fan speeds in aida64 after 10 minutes are about 80 degrees (ambient temp about 22 degrees celsius)? Is that normal? These are the same load temps as what I was getting with my h100i I just upgraded from. I tried reseating and reapplying thermal paste but same temps. What kind of temps are you getting with your h220x?
> Does this sound like a normal temp at 1.3 volts?


Just purely based on the reviews I have seen, the H220/H200X does not out perform other closed loop coolers by a huge lot. maybe 1-3c depending on the testing conditions but it allows for expandability, silence and great aesthetics. Even the X60 is on par (temps) with the H220X with what I have tested.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Just purely based on the reviews I have seen, the H220/H200X does not out perform other closed loop coolers by a huge lot. maybe 1-3c depending on the testing conditions but it allows for expandability, silence and great aesthetics. Even the X60 is on par (temps) with the H220X with what I have tested.


yes but try expanding those other AIOs (possible just not nearly as easily) and see how much the temps would change drastically.....the pump is a big selling point i daresay its the strongest ive seen in an AIO cooler...plus the best part about swiftechs hxxxx series is the customer service and warranty that comes behind it... that is huge today especially with the way a lot of companies handling rma and customer service these days its good to see a company that really does excel at customer service


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Just purely based on the reviews I have seen, the H220/H200X does not out perform other closed loop coolers by a huge lot. maybe 1-3c depending on the testing conditions but it allows for expandability, silence and great aesthetics. Even the X60 is on par (temps) with the H220X with what I have tested.
> 
> 
> 
> yes but try expanding those other AIOs (possible just not nearly as easily) and see how much the temps would change drastically.....the pump is a big selling point i daresay its the strongest ive seen in an AIO cooler...plus the best part about swiftechs hxxxx series is the customer service and warranty that comes behind it... that is huge today especially with the way a lot of companies handling rma and customer service these days its good to see a company that really does excel at customer service
Click to expand...

True, bram has personally made sure that my RMA for the pumps are getting done.


----------



## EarlZ

Do you guys think that its possible for the H220X to cool a 4790K (stock speed and voltages) passively ?


----------



## VSG

No, it will eventually heat up past TJmax within minutes.


----------



## sav4

Have many of you upgraded from h100i to h240x if so opinions on it ?


----------



## EarlZ

Do you guys think that its possible for the H220X to cool a 4790K (stock speed and v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, it will eventually heat up past TJmax within minutes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, it will eventually heat up past TJmax within minutes.


Just with no fans, pump will be running..


----------



## ssgtnubb

It'll overheat, passive cooling even with a cooler that large won't be able to cool fast and consistently enough.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Do you guys think that its possible for the H220X to cool a 4790K (stock speed and v
> 
> Just with no fans, pump will be running..


The pump does nothing to dissipate heat, the radiator and fans do.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Do you guys think that its possible for the H220X to cool a 4790K (stock speed and v
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, it will eventually heat up past TJmax within minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> [
> Just with no fans, pump will be running..
Click to expand...

You will need to have airflow through the rad or it will overheat. If it's not possible to mount fans to the rad then you might be able to get away with having all the other fans in the case as intake and blocking any other open areas for the air to escape in an attempt to force all of their airflow to exhaust through the rad (or vice versa, having all of the other fans as exhaust in an attempt to force all of their air to intake through the rad).


----------



## ssgtnubb

At a bare minimum a slim fan should be added in something like http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-SY1212SL12L/dp/B002CYPWTG


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/KLYrxr this is a persons build with that cooler


i ended in ordering it to my corrent case zalman z9 plus and now i have seen on internet no one with a big watercooler on that case


----------



## Razzaa

Do you guys know which water block would be most compatible with the H240x? Can I use a Acetal + Nickel block or just a full Nickel block?

Edit: Figured it out on my own. Thanks anyway.


----------



## ChromeD2

Hey there everyone!

I purchased my H220 in May 2014 and, after a few hiccups, I had it running awesomely, quiet and smooth until a couple of days ago.
Performance-wise it's still great, low temps even with my overclock up, but the pump has started to make a grindy noise that is just too loud for things to be good.

I filled up the reservoir fully (it wasn't missing much but better safe than sorry) and added in 1 drop of Dawn (Fairy over here), and it looked like it was getting better, but as soon as I actually booted up and started doing heavier work it went right back to the same level of noise as before.
I checked all the fans in my case one by one and all are still silent so I'm attributing it to the pump.

Any suggestions?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Hey there everyone!
> 
> I purchased my H220 in May 2014 and, after a few hiccups, I had it running awesomely, quiet and smooth until a couple of days ago.
> Performance-wise it's still great, low temps even with my overclock up, but the pump has started to make a grindy noise that is just too loud for things to be good.
> 
> I filled up the reservoir fully (it wasn't missing much but better safe than sorry) and added in 1 drop of Dawn (Fairy over here), and it looked like it was getting better, but as soon as I actually booted up and started doing heavier work it went right back to the same level of noise as before.
> I checked all the fans in my case one by one and all are still silent so I'm attributing it to the pump.
> 
> Any suggestions?


We are on the same boat, I've had my pump replaced for a total of 4 times and none of them lasted more than 6 months. I've posted my installation pics before and everyone said it was perfectly fine but bram thinks something else might be causing the issue and that something else is unknown to me.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> We are on the same boat, I've had my pump replaced for a total of 4 times and none of them lasted more than 6 months. I've posted my installation pics before and everyone said it was perfectly fine but bram thinks something else might be causing the issue and that something else is unknown to me.


Thanks for the reply! How did you go about replacing the pump? Did you deal with the retailer or with Swiftech (I'm in Europe so I'm not sure I'd deal with Swiftech directly anyway..). And did you have to be w/o water cooling for a period of time or did they send you the replacement prior to you sending the faulty piece (e.g. like OCZ do with SSD's)?

Sorry for asking so much stuff, just trying to figure stuff out as this machine is a big part of my major source of income atm so I'm a somewhat concerned.

Cheers!


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> We are on the same boat, I've had my pump replaced for a total of 4 times and none of them lasted more than 6 months. I've posted my installation pics before and everyone said it was perfectly fine but bram thinks something else might be causing the issue and that something else is unknown to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply! How did you go about replacing the pump? Did you deal with the retailer or with Swiftech (I'm in Europe so I'm not sure I'd deal with Swiftech directly anyway..). And did you have to be w/o water cooling for a period of time or did they send you the replacement prior to you sending the faulty piece (e.g. like OCZ do with SSD's)?
> 
> Sorry for asking so much stuff, just trying to figure stuff out as this machine is a big part of my major source of income atm so I'm a somewhat concerned.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

The first replacement was done by the retailer but the 2nd to the 4th was done by Bram, I used the stock intel cooler for the time while waiting for the replacement pump to arrive. Didnt have any bleeding or bubble issue right after install but usually after 5 months the pump will make a very loud rattling noise which includes a strong vibration from the pump and from there I can no longer fix it.


----------



## ChromeD2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The first replacement was done by the retailer but the 2nd to the 4th was done by Bram, I used the stock intel cooler for the time while waiting for the replacement pump to arrive. Didnt have any bleeding or bubble issue right after install but usually after 5 months the pump will make a very loud rattling noise which includes a strong vibration from the pump and from there I can no longer fix it.


Ouch. Well.. it does say something about one's love for the unit if you still keep it going after replacing the pump so many times.

I'll check if Bram happens to notice this and give me some pointers on where to go from here after work hours, fingers crossed.

Thanks for the help, mate.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Any idea which tubing is on the H240-Xs currently in stock on your site? Assuming its the new rubber tubing since its new stock but I've been known to be wrong before lol


We don't currently sell the rubber tubing that comes with these kits separately as of yet. We're waiting for a supply of it to come in and it should arrive in the next 3 to 4 weeks. The tubing that we currently have on our website is the glossy black tubing that could have plasticizer issues over time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeD2*
> 
> Ouch. Well.. it does say something about one's love for the unit if you still keep it going after replacing the pump so many times.
> 
> I'll check if Bram happens to notice this and give me some pointers on where to go from here after work hours, fingers crossed.
> 
> Thanks for the help, mate.


Please PM me about this and tell me where you purchased this kit from.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't currently sell the rubber tubing that comes with these kits separately as of yet. We're waiting for a supply of it to come in and it should arrive in the next 3 to 4 weeks. The tubing that we currently have on our website is the glossy black tubing that could have plasticizer issues over time.
> Please PM me about this and tell me where you purchased this kit from.


Are you guys ever going to have the Blue coolant back in stock? ANother question if i may. What are those two pieces of metal inside the reservoir that can be seen through the bay window?


----------



## ssgtnubb

I'd say those are designed as something to create a flow pattern; they are static pieces.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Are you guys ever going to have the Blue coolant back in stock? ANother question if i may. What are those two pieces of metal inside the reservoir that can be seen through the bay window?


the two pieces direct the flow...so it doesn't churn I would assume


----------



## Vacsol

is NCIX ever going to actually re-stock with H220-X coolers? They said they would replace my defective H220 with one, but they have been out of stock for at least a month.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Are you guys ever going to have the Blue coolant back in stock? ANother question if i may. What are those two pieces of metal inside the reservoir that can be seen through the bay window?


No, we're discontinuing the blue coolant because the manufacturer we were getting it from has stopped producing it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vacsol*
> 
> is NCIX ever going to actually re-stock with H220-X coolers? They said they would replace my defective H220 with one, but they have been out of stock for at least a month.


It will be several more weeks before they get the H220-X back in stock. We won't have it back in stock for about 3 or 4 more weeks. NCIX will get them shortly after that.


----------



## ssgtnubb

This is a good/bad problem to have isn't it Bram, demand out the ying yang and supply issue's. In my line of work these are called money tree's lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> This is a good/bad problem to have isn't it Bram, demand out the ying yang and supply issue's. In my line of work these are called money tree's lol


us especially good when your product outperforms the others at a great price do they will wait


----------



## ssgtnubb

So true; my only regret is getting the 240 over the 220x because of my case but it's something I'm OK to live with.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't currently sell the rubber tubing that comes with these kits separately as of yet. We're waiting for a supply of it to come in and it should arrive in the next 3 to 4 weeks. The tubing that we currently have on our website is the glossy black tubing that could have plasticizer issues over time.
> Please PM me about this and tell me where you purchased this kit from.


I don't want to purchase the tubing separately Brian I was curious which type of tubing is on the H240-X kits that you have on your shelves right now, sorry if my wording was unclear the first time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I don't want to purchase the tubing separately Brian I was curious which type of tubing is on the H240-X kits that you have on your shelves right now, sorry if my wording was unclear the first time.


It's the rubber tubing that is flat black in color.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's the rubber tubing that is flat black in color.


Aw yeah, just what I wanted to hear. Thank you sir for the swift reply

Now I'm really looking forward to my tax return so I can snag a Enthoo Luxe and one of these badass H240-Xs.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I don't want to purchase the tubing separately Brian I was curious which type of tubing is on the H240-X kits that you have on your shelves right now, sorry if my wording was unclear the first time.


If you're looking for tubing, any DEHP free 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD tubing such as PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT should work fine.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If you're looking for tubing, any DEHP free 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD tubing such as PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT should work fine.


Thats good to know for the future when I wanna change stuff out. I wasn't looking for any specific tubing right now but I saw the post regarding how they changed from one type of tubing to the other so I thought to check into it before purchasing my kit (to see if I'd end up with a kit with the old plasticizing tubing, or the newer rubber tubing.)


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Thats good to know for the future when I wanna change stuff out. I wasn't looking for any specific tubing right now but I saw the post regarding how they changed from one type of tubing to the other so I thought to check into it before purchasing my kit (to see if I'd end up with a kit with the old plasticizing tubing, or the newer rubber tubing.)


Yeah, more DEHP free tubings are coming out. They are slightly more expensive, but worth it in the long run.


----------



## wes1099

I still need to ship my h220x to get its reservoir window fixed...


----------



## Razzaa

Im going to do a tubing switch to Clear 3/8' x 5/8' but i cant find any biocide or clear coolant in West Coast Canada. I want to just run Distilled water and additive in clear tubing. SO expensive to get pt nuke or IandH shipped to Canada, BC


----------



## drop24

Perhaps there is a off the shelf product that is safe? Javex comes to mind.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Im going to do a tubing switch to Clear 3/8' x 5/8' but i cant find any biocide or clear coolant in West Coast Canada. I want to just run Distilled water and additive in clear tubing. SO expensive to get pt nuke or IandH shipped to Canada, BC


Have you looked at https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/additives/ to see if they have anything that would suit your needs? I don't know exactly what you're looking for but I see they sell a kill coil and a biocide.

edit: the reason I suggest dazmode is since its a Canadian store located in Missisauga Ontario, shipping should be considerably cheaper for you.


----------



## Vacsol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It will be several more weeks before they get the H220-X back in stock. We won't have it back in stock for about 3 or 4 more weeks. NCIX will get them shortly after that.


so 3-4 weeks for you guys to get them, then another 2 weeks before NCIX gets them, then 2 weeks for it to arrive in the mail.
so I'm looking at 2+ months before I get my replacement, on top of the month i've already waited?


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Have you looked at https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/additives/ to see if they have anything that would suit your needs? I don't know exactly what you're looking for but I see they sell a kill coil and a biocide.
> 
> edit: the reason I suggest dazmode is since its a Canadian store located in Missisauga Ontario, shipping should be considerably cheaper for you.


I am aware of Dazmode. The shipping is still about 15$+. Thats might be my only option though. Thanks.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The first replacement was done by the retailer but the 2nd to the 4th was done by Bram, I used the stock intel cooler for the time while waiting for the replacement pump to arrive. Didnt have any bleeding or bubble issue right after install but usually after 5 months the pump will make a very loud rattling noise which includes a strong vibration from the pump and from there I can no longer fix it.


On topic of tubing, I am curious of what you are using? I know the original shiny black stuff that came on mine had quite a bit of plasticizer build up. Mine sat unused for a few months and I planned on switching to norprene. When I set up the rad flush I noticed all the gunk. If you are using it, maybe the plasticizer is enough to off balance and ruin the pump? Idk, just thinking.


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all I was wondering if anybody else gets tiny bubbies on the top (inside) of the tubing when the pump is at 100%? When at like 40% I don't really notice it but when I crank it up you can see it. My temps don't seem to suffer Dying Light max setting for 2 hours GPU was at 56C and the CPU was at 35-40C. Just would like to see a smooth flow







I do notice that when my pump is running the water isn't to the complete top of the res pretty close just not all the way. I tried to bleed it but when I take the screw out it just drips coolant out. Any recommendations. I can provide pictures if need be.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all I was wondering if anybody else gets tiny bubbies on the top (inside) of the tubing when the pump is at 100%? When at like 40% I don't really notice it but when I crank it up you can see it. My temps don't seem to suffer Dying Light max setting for 2 hours GPU was at 56C and the CPU was at 35-40C. Just would like to see a smooth flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do notice that when my pump is running the water isn't to the complete top of the res pretty close just not all the way. I tried to bleed it but when I take the screw out it just drips coolant out. Any recommendations. I can provide pictures if need be.


that means a little bit of air is trapped in the loop the bubbles you see are it circulating...if it gets trapped in a block it can effect temps...you also don't want it in the pump...it's tricky to get out sometimes but if you get it to the fillport you can top it if with distilled water to fill the space and remove the air...you probably notice a little waterfall sound when it's churning in there?


----------



## svictorcc

I expanded my H140-x and included a second 140mm rad and gpu gtx 970 to the loop.
I tried many combinations, but the best that i could find for performance was with fans installed to intake air, and both 2x80 rear fans to exhaust.
Results:
room temp: 29ºC
2x140 rads fans: set to +ou- 900rpm (pushing air through the rads).
Water temp (xspc sensor installed in the gtx 970 waterblock): 33,6ºC idle
Water temp while heavy playing games (after 1 hour): 49,7ºC
GPU max temp (while gaming): 63ºC
CPU cores max temps (while gaming): 67ºC/65ºC/64ºC/66ºC
Water cooldown time: around 10min from 49,7ºC to 33,6ºC



Still waiting for the prolimatech 140x15 to fit the second rad and fan inside case.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> The first replacement was done by the retailer but the 2nd to the 4th was done by Bram, I used the stock intel cooler for the time while waiting for the replacement pump to arrive. Didnt have any bleeding or bubble issue right after install but usually after 5 months the pump will make a very loud rattling noise which includes a strong vibration from the pump and from there I can no longer fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> On topic of tubing, I am curious of what you are using? I know the original shiny black stuff that came on mine had quite a bit of plasticizer build up. Mine sat unused for a few months and I planned on switching to norprene. When I set up the rad flush I noticed all the gunk. If you are using it, maybe the plasticizer is enough to off balance and ruin the pump? Idk, just thinking.
Click to expand...

Just using the stock tubes, I ran tap water for about 15mins on the radiator and flushed it with distilled water. As for the pump I took it apart and used vinegar and a soft toothbrush to remove all the gunk. and flushed it with distilled water. Every time I get a replacement pump it is 100% flawless even on the first install only needed bleeding for 5mins or less but after a while no amount of bleeding will help but I'll give this another try since the last replacement was the H220X pump.


----------



## ZC4065

Replacement window just arrived, but there's no instructions for installation. Would anyone have a pdf or a picture of the instructions I could use?


----------



## Mega Man

I bet you are supposed to talk to bram


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Replacement window just arrived, but there's no instructions for installation. Would anyone have a pdf or a picture of the instructions I could use?


Have a look at this review here http://thermalbench.com/2015/01/09/swiftech-h220-x-aio-cooler/4/. This comes courtesy of our good friend VSG. If you PM me I can also provide you with a set of instructions for refilling the kit once the window is replaced and you've reinstalled the kit.


----------



## VSG

Heh if I knew that review would have come in so handy, I would have better documented that process. I missed a few pics in there for example. Thanks for the share, Bryan


----------



## crazyxelite

got mine got from a shop in europe paid £120 it looks much more bigger than in the videos it kiss ass the corsair h110i gt

i made a video.


----------



## EarlZ

In reviews ive seen that the H220X comes with the port adapter like this:


http://imgur.com/Bnh6txB


Mine didnt come with any or is it purchased separately ?


----------



## VSG

Purchased separately as that very review you got the picture from mentioned.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Purchased separately as that very review you got the picture from mentioned.


I missed it at the bottom where he said it s purchased separately but at the top of the picture he says "This is where the small item packed in with the H220-X comes in:"


----------



## VSG

With that package from Swiftech, yes. Not with the H220-X, unfortunately.


----------



## crazyxelite

Trying to fit on my zalman z9 plus no luck only with the fans outside the case. I will try anyway


----------



## liberato87

ALPHACOOL EISBERG 240 CPU, review

http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/alphacool-eisberg-240-cpu-l-aio-best-buy-arriva-dalla-germania-2015021110471/


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> ALPHACOOL EISBERG 240 CPU, review
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/liquid/alphacool-eisberg-240-cpu-l-aio-best-buy-arriva-dalla-germania-2015021110471/


No news here. It has been around with the Cooler Master logo for quite some time. Noisy pump, middling performance, very limited expandability. Definitely not in the same class as the H220-X, or even H220 or 240L.


----------



## crazyxelite

New problem i need the original amd backplate.... Fuuu


----------



## BramSLI1

I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX980-ECO.aspx. What do you guys think?


----------



## Dudewitbow

I think it looks nice (but I'm most fan of aquacompters Hawaii blocks, pure personal preference though)


----------



## VSG

I like it from the pics









Will this be the new style for GPU blocks or will both versions be available?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I like it from the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will this be the new style for GPU blocks or will both versions be available?


We're likely doing to do both versions. That will ultimately be up to Gabe though as these are his babies.


----------



## emsj86

That. 980 block. Wish my 780 gpu block was see through. Oh well next time


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> The little black screw at the top of the resivoir window is the bleed screw. Be care with its threads as they are fine and screw into the acrylic window, before the screw comes all the way out, it will start to leak the trapped air ( youll see little bubbles forming around the threads when the air is escaping.


Just wondering so you don't remove the screw all the way? When my pump is at 100% i have tiny air bubbles on my tubing. I take out my bleed screw but since the water in the res is so high (even when running) I start to leak coolant.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Just wondering so you don't remove the screw all the way? When my pump is at 100% i have tiny air bubbles on my tubing. I take out my bleed screw but since the water in the res is so high (even when running) I start to leak coolant.


Right, you shouldn't need to completely remove the bleed screw when you're bleeding this kit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX980-ECO.aspx. What do you guys think?


Really really impressed however i hope 4 things

1 Gabe never compromises on the backplates ( IE they are always included ) and if possible they are made single slot ( comes with bracket ) 100% as well ( when able to..... stupid DVI cant we just switch to all cards having 6 mini DPs already..... )

2 your backplates ( no idea on nvidia but i think you do ) dont cut out the "x" for the cross bracket and secure the block through backplate ( more like EK ) and then we can also cool the back of the die, also the last gen backplates looked best WITH the large swiftech logo

3 like the 79xx series make the ports removable ( would love the bridges again but not as needed ) for sli/cfx !!!! the 290s were a pain to install and nightmare to remove when using 4 !!!

4 i hope this round you concentrate on VRM temps a little more then in the past

lastly i have a great idea on how to incorporate an RGB and control them instead of normal LEDs !!!!! ( pm me if interested )


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No news here. It has been around with the Cooler Master logo for quite some time. Noisy pump, middling performance, very limited expandability. Definitely not in the same class as the H220-X, or even H220 or 240L.


I agree. I reviewed also the Swiftech H-220X and it is on another level, best AIO on the market!

Not in the same class of the CM 240L ? are you sure? it's THE SAME aio and cost 50€ less.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX980-ECO.aspx. What do you guys think?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> I agree. I reviewed also the Swiftech H-220X and it is on another level, best AIO on the market!
> 
> Not in the same class of the CM 240L ? are you sure? it's THE SAME aio and cost 50€ less.


The CM Glacer 240L is a Swiftech H220, not an Alphacool. The Eisberg is the same as the Alphacool, and I really feel both fall well short of the H220/240L all around.


----------



## svictorcc

@BramSLI1
Hi! I need a help here.
I'm thinking in swap the mcp30 pump from my h140-x to a mcp50x.
Do you know if the mcp50x can handle this configuration in the same loop?
2x280mm (60mm tick) + 1x140mm (30mm tick) radiators + 1x cpu and 1x gpu waterblocks?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> Hi! I need a help here.
> I'm thinking in swap the mcp30 pump from my h140-x to a mcp50x.
> Do you know if the mcp50x can handle this configuration in the same loop?
> 2x280mm (60mm tick) + 1x140mm (30mm tick) radiators + 1x cpu and 1x gpu waterblocks?
> Thanks in advance!


The MCP50X should be able to handle that without an issue.


----------



## NIK1

Is the H240-x in stock at the swiftech site. It shows the H220-x out of stock but the H240x does not show out of stock. Got to get me one of these for a new system I am putting together.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Is the H240-x in stock at the swiftech site. It shows the H220-x out of stock but the H240x does not show out of stock. Got to get me one of these for a new system I am putting together.


Yes, the H240-X is in stock right now. They're going fast though.


----------



## CSHawkeye

I was able to get one this week, much improvement over the H240X I received ironically from FrozenCPU 5 months ago. The only issue I still have is the pump noise and wanted to know should I let it work in a few days or are there any fixes?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the H240-X is in stock right now. They're going fast though.


Damnit I was gonna pay a CPA to do my taxes this year rather than going to some mickey mouse place like H&R Block but I might have to suck it up and let the green men do my taxes if I wanna snag a H240-X before they're sold out again.

Decisions decisions...


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The CM Glacer 240L is a Swiftech H220, not an Alphacool. The Eisberg is the same as the Alphacool, and I really feel both fall well short of the H220/240L all around.


sorry mate, though you were talking about the Eisberg not the Glacer.

I repeat, the H220-X is one step forward!


----------



## ZC4065

Finally got the custom loop sorted!

The parts:

Swiftch H220-x
XSPC 7990 Waterblock
2x Alphacool ST30 radiators
Primochill Primoflex Advance LRT white tubing
2x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans
6x XSPC Compression Fittings with 4x 45 Degree Swivel Fittings
Distilled Water with Silver Bullet Fitting
My current specs are in my signature, check them out here!

Stripped the PC bare, adding a new PSU and removing one of the hard drive bays, as well as general cleaning and preparation



Got all my parts delivered and ready, took 2 months of waiting to get them all!



Added the radiators and H220-x to the case, measuring and cutting tubing, then connecting it all together via compression fittings. Sadly the 500r is slightly lacking in radiator space, so there is more tubing than is optimal! Attached the fitting and tubing Bryan sent me to the fill port, which I used to fill the easily.



Got the loop filled and sealed, LEDs attached to the block and the cables routed, and not a leak to be found! The GPU waterblock is slightly heavier causing a bit of bending, currently looking into a solution for this.



Got the PC connected up and running, launched up various tests and such to stress CPU, GPU and both. The CPU never goes above 67C and the GPU 46C (see below).

Maximum temps after several tests including Intel Burn, Firestrike and Kombuster.


Firestrike score at 2560x1080

All in all, not bad for a first time water cooling build, though next time I'll go for a more radiator friendly case! Going to replace the blue LED on the GPU block with a white one, but all in all I'm happy!



Happy computer!


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODO-NV-GTX980-ECO.aspx. What do you guys think?


Where is the G1 970 block? Please lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> My current specs are in my signature, check them out here!
> 
> Stripped the PC bare, adding a new PSU and removing one of the hard drive bays, as well as general cleaning
> Got all my parts delivered and ready, took 2 months of waiting to get them all!
> 
> Added the radiators and H220-x to the case, measuring and cutting tubing, then connecting it all together via compression fittings. Sadly the 500r is slightly lacking in radiator space, so there is more tubing than is optimal! Attached the fitting and tubing Bryan sent me to the fill port, which I used to fill the
> 
> Got the loop filled and sealed, LEDs attached to the block and the cables routed, and not a leak to be found! The GPU waterblock is slightly heavier causing a bit of bending, currently looking into a solution for this.
> 
> Got the PC connected up and running, launched up various tests and such to stress CPU, GPU and both. The CPU never goes above 67C and the GPU 46C (see below).
> 
> Maximum temps after several tests including Intel Burn, Firestrike and Kombuster.
> 
> 
> Firestrike score at 2560x1080
> 
> All in all, not bad for a first time water cooling build, though next time I'll go for a more radiator friendly case! Going to replace the blue LED on the GPU block with a white one, but all in all I'm happy!
> 
> Happy computer!


what controller it's that nzxt that looks sharp


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> what controller it's that nzxt that looks sharp


NZXT Sentry LX. Loving it so far, will get again!


----------



## goldswimmerb

Hows this look for a H220x with my OCd i7 ;P

So far I'm loving this cooler!


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Finally got the custom loop sorted!
> 
> The parts:
> 
> Swiftch H220-x
> XSPC 7990 Waterblock
> 2x Alphacool ST30 radiators
> Primochill Primoflex Advance LRT white tubing
> 2x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans
> 6x XSPC Compression Fittings with 4x 45 Degree Swivel Fittings
> Distilled Water with Silver Bullet Fitting
> My current specs are in my signature, check them out here!
> 
> Stripped the PC bare, adding a new PSU and removing one of the hard drive bays, as well as general cleaning and preparation
> 
> 
> 
> Got all my parts delivered and ready, took 2 months of waiting to get them all!
> 
> 
> 
> Added the radiators and H220-x to the case, measuring and cutting tubing, then connecting it all together via compression fittings. Sadly the 500r is slightly lacking in radiator space, so there is more tubing than is optimal! Attached the fitting and tubing Bryan sent me to the fill port, which I used to fill the easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Got the loop filled and sealed, LEDs attached to the block and the cables routed, and not a leak to be found! The GPU waterblock is slightly heavier causing a bit of bending, currently looking into a solution for this.
> 
> 
> 
> Got the PC connected up and running, launched up various tests and such to stress CPU, GPU and both. The CPU never goes above 67C and the GPU 46C (see below).
> 
> Maximum temps after several tests including Intel Burn, Firestrike and Kombuster.
> 
> 
> Firestrike score at 2560x1080
> 
> All in all, not bad for a first time water cooling build, though next time I'll go for a more radiator friendly case! Going to replace the blue LED on the GPU block with a white one, but all in all I'm happy!
> 
> 
> 
> Happy computer!


Hmm.. why not go from H220x > CPU Block > Rear ST30 > GPU Block > Front-bottom ST30 > H220x?

That would be a cleaner look.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> what controller it's that nzxt that looks sharp


NZXT Sentry LX
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Hmm.. why not go from H220x > CPU Block > Rear ST30 > GPU Block > Front-bottom ST30 > H220x?
> 
> That would be a cleaner look.


With how the radiator sticks out the angle was too awkward


----------



## deehoC

Yeahhhh buddy! Finally ordered an H240-X last night but I totally forgot to add the G1/4 Adapter for the MCP30.









I wonder if there is anyway of paying for it without the shipping charges and add it to my existing order so I can get it in one shot?


----------



## Mega Man

bram * assuming you bought from swiftech


----------



## spacetoast31

My scratch built case. I made a window to show off the h220x res. loop goes like this,

h220x-swiftech mcr120- cpu-gpu-gpu-ek dcp 2.2-UT60 3x120-multiz 250ml res-back around to h220x

i added the ek pump for added pressur further in the loop. I have good temps and good pressur throughout. I wanted to add my other swiftech mcr320 but couldnt find a good mount spot to put it in my build.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> My scratch built case. I made a window to show off the h220x res. loop goes like this,
> 
> h220x-swiftech mcr120- cpu-gpu-gpu-ek dcp 2.2-UT60 3x120-multiz 250ml res-back around to h220x
> 
> i added the ek pump for added pressur further in the loop. I have good temps and good pressur throughout. I wanted to add my other swiftech mcr320 but couldnt find a good mount spot to put it in my build.


id like to see the other side of the white veil there


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> id like to see the other side of the white veil there


Not gonna lie, I've been dreading that request. Lol its not the best of yet. I still need to make an actual mount for the mcr120 since it currently just hangs there... Lol. But it's not a lot of weight. Andi rushed the end of the build just because I had class and this was a 2 month process with some down time in between as I'm a student and a dad and I work... But I have to clean it up a bit and make things. Bit more "permanent. As in bust out the zip tie mounts and do my cable management. But just here ya go...


----------



## crazyxelite

Hi ppl a little update




Here i connect thoose? The first one come from the cpu cooler and the other come from the pump.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Hi ppl a little update
> 
> 
> 
> Here i connect thoose? The first one come from the cpu cooler and the other come from the pump.


the one on the cooler itsselt connects to the motherboard, and depending on the motherboard, you can change the settings to 100% to give it that nice full Glow, or if you wanted, you can leave it on auto and it will pulse the color a little bit. The one on the pump goes to the fan hub it came with.


----------



## crazyxelite

So the one from the pump goes in the first slot the red one right?

Edit: There's other in the fan controler where i connect that one? Thanks bro.


----------



## spacetoast31

well, mine doesnt have a red one but it does have a msrking by it by i would assume you got a revised version and the red would probably be correct.


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> well, mine doesnt have a red one but it does have a msrking by it by i would assume you got a revised version and the red would probably be correct.


thanks for helping me. What about the one that come from the fan controller?


----------



## spacetoast31

plug that in to your cpu header on the motherboard


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> plug that in to your cpu header on the motherboard


Im confused now. There's one cable in the cpu i connected that one in the cpu header is that wrong?


----------



## spacetoast31

yes, thats wrong, plug that one in to a regular fan header, or in to the cpu_opt header, what board do you have?


----------



## CSHawkeye

Anyone know how i can remove the 5.25 bays from the Corsair 450D case? Want to give my tubing a little more room as its a tight fit right now.


----------



## spacetoast31

i believe you have to drill out a few rivets. I was gonna do that to mine, but i just opted for using my 240 rad instead of the 280 i have so it would fit lol. I was lazy. Umm, i think there was 4? i cant fully remember


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> thanks for helping me. What about the one that come from the fan controller?


cpu header on motherboard


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Im confused now. There's one cable in the cpu i connected that one in the cpu header is that wrong?


3 pin connector from block goes on any fan header...pump 4 pin goes to the pwm splitter that came with the kit in slot one...4 pin off the splitter goes into cpu header


----------



## ytrameel

I hate to be that guy, but there are basically 1500 pages. Is the pump in the Glacier 240L updated from the Swiftech H220? I'm building in an Ncase M1 and the H220X most likely won't fit, but I'm wanting a compact 2x 120 loop for my 4790k and a reference GTX 970. Goal is ideally silence, don't really overclock. Only have the 4790k because it was $100 with Intel retailedge.


----------



## Razzaa

My temps seem really high for a 4790K at stock settings with a H240x on it. While [email protected] my temps are 72c. Idle temps are 30c. Ambient about 20c. Can anyone confirm with a similar set up?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> My temps seem really high for a 4790K at stock settings with a H240x on it. While [email protected] my temps are 72c. Idle temps are 30c. Ambient about 20c. Can anyone confirm with a similar set up?


The load temps seem slightly high for stock how do u have your fans and pump connected and profile ?
Check what vcore is getting applied to your cpu to


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> The load temps seem slightly high for stock how do u have your fans and pump connected and profile ?
> Check what vcore is getting applied to your cpu to


vcore is only 1.184. Everything is connected properly. My pump is connected the the fan hub in the pump slot that came with the cooler. I have a fan profile set up to run higher when it gets that hot. Right now it is 68c while folding and pump is at 2800rpm


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> yes, thats wrong, plug that one in to a regular fan header, or in to the cpu_opt header, what board do you have?


I have the asus m5a99x evo


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> NZXT Sentry LX
> 
> With how the radiator sticks out the angle was too awkward


Rotate the rear rad so that the in/out ports are at the top?


----------



## crazyxelite

system up and running 2300 rpm getting 35c in idle. on a 8320 at 4.7 Ghz. i hope dont go more than 65c at load. if it goes dont improve from my xigmatek aegir. Thanks everyone for the help.
other question: maybe next month i will cut a bit the tubs that afect the performace? gets worse? thanks


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Rotate the rear rad so that the in/out ports are at the top?


Not enough head room above for them. Trust me, I tried everything


----------



## svictorcc

A question to everyone (experinced water loop guys are very welcome!).
Am i crazy to think that the mcp30 pump can handle 3x120 27mm thin rads (magicool) + original h140-X rad (30mm) + 1x gpu (970) + cpu blocks?
It would be a total of 500mm thin rads to pump plus gpu/cpu blocks...???


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> A question to everyone (experinced water loop guys are very welcome!).
> Am i crazy to think that the mcp30 pump can handle 3x120 27mm thin rads (magicool) + original h140-X rad (30mm) + 1x gpu (970) + cpu blocks?
> It would be a total of 500mm thin rads to pump plus gpu/cpu blocks...???


it should work but its on the edge of what it can handle...I have 500mm of rad space but no gpu and flow is still good...I've got another rad and pump and two gpu blocks coming yay Christmas in March...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> My temps seem really high for a 4790K at stock settings with a H240x on it. While [email protected] my temps are 72c. Idle temps are 30c. Ambient about 20c. Can anyone confirm with a similar set up?


I have no idea with [email protected]

Running OCCT or AIDA64 stress tests yielded temps in the mid-60s on *my particular* 4790K with voltage topping out around 1.17 with the fans and pump set to max in a 21 degree room. But....I also happen to have my case well set up for airflow, and the radiator gets a steady stream of cool air.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> A question to everyone (experinced water loop guys are very welcome!).
> Am i crazy to think that the mcp30 pump can handle 3x120 27mm thin rads (magicool) + original h140-X rad (30mm) + 1x gpu (970) + cpu blocks?
> It would be a total of 500mm thin rads to pump plus gpu/cpu blocks...???


pumps do not care about rads,

they only matter about cpu blocks and gpus blocks

( now if we start talking about 20 rads the loop length may be too much but still normal circumstances it does not care )


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have no idea with [email protected]
> 
> Running OCCT or AIDA64 stress tests yielded temps in the mid-60s on *my particular* 4790K with voltage topping out around 1.17 with the fans and pump set to max in a 21 degree room. But....I also happen to have my case well set up for airflow, and the radiator gets a steady stream of cool air.


Fixed the issue. I popped the top off my H440 and my temps dropped by 12-15c. The top of the case is a huge choke point for getting airflow to the rad. I will be looking for a new case. Getting 55-57c now while Folding.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it should work but its on the edge of what it can handle...I have 500mm of rad space but no gpu and flow is still good...I've got another rad and pump and two gpu blocks coming yay Christmas in March...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pumps do not care about rads,
> 
> they only matter about cpu blocks and gpus blocks
> 
> ( now if we start talking about 20 rads the loop length may be too much but still normal circumstances it does not care )


Thanks!
But i don't understand why rads doesn't matter for pump in water loops...? The same water that flows to the gpu/cpu blocks have to go thought the rads, so it's one more place for the pump to work...?


----------



## sdmf74

Still no pump tops etc.? for MCP50X? I figured swiftech would have something by now. Any Idea why the long delay?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Still no pump tops etc.? for MCP50X? I figured swiftech would have something by now. Any Idea why the long delay?


The Swiftech rep has mentioned that they are considering other tops for the MCP50X but not yet confirmed that there were actually any in the works yet, at least that I'm aware of. And even then he has mentioned several times that if/when they do proceed it would probably be a "_lengthy process_".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I will be sure to mention this to our engineers again. I have to let everyone here wanting this though know that the engineering involved will likely take several months to complete and then we'll need time to validate the prototype before moving forward with production. A top like is a lengthy process to go from initial design to production.


That comment was a few months ago. Maybe soon? Maybe not? I wouldn't hold my breath.


----------



## sdmf74

Exacltly. Wasnt that quote from Bryan made several months ago?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

lol, I guess you read a comment like that thinking that probably means months, and I read the same thing and think more like a year and possibly more. We'll see.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it should work but its on the edge of what it can handle...I have 500mm of rad space but no gpu and flow is still good...I've got another rad and pump and two gpu blocks coming yay Christmas in March...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pumps do not care about rads,
> 
> they only matter about cpu blocks and gpus blocks
> 
> ( now if we start talking about 20 rads the loop length may be too much but still normal circumstances it does not care )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
> But i don't understand why rads doesn't matter for pump in water loops...? The same water that flows to the gpu/cpu blocks have to go thought the rads, so it's one more place for the pump to work...?
Click to expand...

rads dont really have restriction worth noting and as i said, really you dont increase the length by that much to worry about it vs cpu/gpu blocks that have extreme amounts of restriction


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rads dont really have restriction worth noting and as i said, really you dont increase the length by that much to worry about it vs cpu/gpu blocks that have extreme amounts of restriction


this is why I bought the mcp50 to supplement my waterblocks...I think it with the mcp30 will handle pretty much all I can throw at at


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Thanks!
> But i don't understand why rads doesn't matter for pump in water loops...? The same water that flows to the gpu/cpu blocks have to go thought the rads, so it's one more place for the pump to work...?


I have a CPU and GPU block with 2 rads and it's handling it easily!


----------



## Vacsol

has there been any hardware revisions in the new batch of h220-x's? I'm planning on doing some benchmarks and a small review once my replacement unit arrives.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vacsol*
> 
> has there been any hardware revisions in the new batch of h220-x's? I'm planning on doing some benchmarks and a small review once my replacement unit arrives.


The only thing I know is they changed the tubing used with the latest batch.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Exacltly. Wasnt that quote from Bryan made several months ago?


There will be a clear top available quite soon. We're validating now and they should be in production sometime in the next couple of weeks, if everything goes well.

I do need to let everyone know thought that the tops won't be available separately. They will come with the MCP50X already installed.


----------



## Mega Man

idc

ill buy them IF you make a dual top !


----------



## Bludge

Hey Bram, any idea when you might see the MCR140-X back in stock?


----------



## EarlZ

Is there like a way to control how bright the LEDS are on the block? I tried connecting it to a 7v adapter and thought it would be at half brightness but it wont work. I want to leds to be at half max..


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is there like a way to control how bright the LEDS are on the block? I tried connecting it to a 7v adapter and thought it would be at half brightness but it wont work. I want to leds to be at half max..


You plug it in to any one of your extrta fan headers on your motherboard NOT your main cpu header... and in bios, go to your fan monitoring options and make your minimum and maximum values 100% and it will be as bright as it can.


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> idc
> 
> ill buy them IF you make a dual top !


SAME HERE!! Not exactly worth buying another single pump and breaking down my loop just for a clear top, but to run dual pumps with or without a clear top is well worth the purchase & breakdown!


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is there like a way to control how bright the LEDS are on the block? I tried connecting it to a 7v adapter and thought it would be at half brightness but it wont work. I want to leds to be at half max..
> 
> 
> 
> You plug it in to any one of your extrta fan headers on your motherboard NOT your main cpu header... and in bios, go to your fan monitoring options and make your minimum and maximum values 100% and it will be as bright as it can.
Click to expand...

I dont want it to be at max brightness as ive said


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I dont want it to be at max brightness as ive said


Then choose a Perce rage you like... 60% 84% 22% or even 99% if you don't want 100. Pick a level, try it out, adjust to the brightness of your liking. Problem solved.


----------



## sav4

H240x already out of stock these things sell like hot cakes


----------



## CSHawkeye

So I am not using the PWM splitter at all, is that a problem for me as that may be why my pump sounds a little loud at idle? Or could I control that through my motherboard (Asus Rampage V Extreme).


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> So I am not using the PWM splitter at all, is that a problem for me as that may be why my pump sounds a little loud at idle? Or could I control that through my motherboard (Asus Rampage V Extreme).


The pump speed is controlled by the CPU fan header, so the splitter is meant to come out of there


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSHawkeye*
> 
> So I am not using the PWM splitter at all, is that a problem for me as that may be why my pump sounds a little loud at idle? Or could I control that through my motherboard (Asus Rampage V Extreme).


Without saying how you have it connected, it's impossible to say.


----------



## CSHawkeye

Well I guess with the connection from the pump the SATA power is plugged into its normal spot while the 4 pin is plugged into one of the normal Fan headers, the CPU one and the one next to it I have my 2 fans plugged in.


----------



## svictorcc

I was doing some research about restricitions in water loops, and found many websites saying that angled fittings, like 45º and 90º, add restrictions to the loop.
Are this informations correct?
If i expand my h140-x with the 3x120mm (27mm tick) AND use some angled fittings, will i be 100% in trouble using the original mcp30 pump?
The loop would be like this:
h140-x -> rad -> rad -> rad -> CPU -> GPU -> back to the h140-x
A total of 12 fittings will be in this configuration, and 5 of then 90º angled fittings....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> I was doing some research about restricitions in water loops, and found many websites saying that angled fittings, like 45º and 90º, add restrictions to the loop.
> Are this informations correct?
> If i expand my h140-x with the 3x120mm (27mm tick) AND use some angled fittings, will i be 100% in trouble using the original mcp30 pump?
> The loop would be like this:
> h140-x -> rad -> rad -> rad -> CPU -> GPU -> back to the h140-x
> A total of 12 fittings will be in this configuration, and 5 of then 90º angled fittings....


Fittings and Elbow Impacts
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


----------



## Darkice

Any one with the h240x know what temps it can get with two extra rads one 280mm and a 240mm and two 980 GPUs?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I dont want it to be at max brightness as ive said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then choose a Perce rage you like... 60% 84% 22% or even 99% if you don't want 100. Pick a level, try it out, adjust to the brightness of your liking. Problem solved.
Click to expand...

Have you tried this? As the leds on my block only activate if they are getting close to 12v and setting the fan headers at 80% wont allow then to light up


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Have you tried this? As the leds on my block only activate if they are getting close to 12v and setting the fan headers at 80% wont allow then to light up


That's typical for LEDs of this kind. You really won't be able to turn them down much. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## spacetoast31

It was pulsing based on the percentage when it was on auto and I also used it at 60 as it was default


----------



## sav4

Hey bram when are u getting more h240x stock ? I was to slow


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Have you tried this? As the leds on my block only activate if they are getting close to 12v and setting the fan headers at 80% wont allow then to light up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's typical for LEDs of this kind. You really won't be able to turn them down much. I'm sorry about that.
Click to expand...

Do you have the approximate number of hours for the LED to last in full brightness before any noticeable dimming starts to happen?


----------



## drop24

What do you do if you purchase a H220-X and it's old stock with the glossy tubing with plasticizer issues? Will Swiftech send you replacement tubes and coolant? This is the only thing holding me back from buying one from my local shop.


----------



## crazyxelite

Switching the stock fans with corsair or noctua improves the temps?


----------



## cephelix

ok guys, ran into another problem..... Got the H220, and the updated impeller(the one with 3 holes instead of 1). Recently, the pump developed the rattling sound like air was trapped behind the impeller and I thought it was because of that. Turned down the rpm to the minimum to make the knocking sound go away. Last weekend I dismantled my loop and cleaned everything out but the knocking sound still remains. The loop had been running about 6-8months before I dismantled it. Running just distilled water with mayhems biocide. Any ideas why the knocking sound is still there?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> What do you do if you purchase a H220-X and it's old stock with the glossy tubing with plasticizer issues? Will Swiftech send you replacement tubes and coolant? This is the only thing holding me back from buying one from my local shop.


wait, what? i bought mine when it first came out and mine does have the glossy tubing, are you saying theres something wrong with mine?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wait, what? i bought mine when it first came out and mine does have the glossy tubing, are you saying theres something wrong with mine?


The glossy tubing has an issue called plasticising, where over time the heat breaks down the tubing material and can cause clogging and/or damage to the pump. Swiftech recently replaced the glossy plastic tubing with rubber in order to combat the issue. DEHP (the plastic known to cause it) is found in most common tubings, but there are other varieties out there such as PrimoFlex PrimoChill Advanced LRT that are DEHP free.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hey bram when are u getting more h240x stock ? I was to slow


We should have them back in stock either at the end of this week or early next week.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Do you have the approximate number of hours for the LED to last in full brightness before any noticeable dimming starts to happen?


No, I don't have any information on that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> What do you do if you purchase a H220-X and it's old stock with the glossy tubing with plasticizer issues? Will Swiftech send you replacement tubes and coolant? This is the only thing holding me back from buying one from my local shop.


Being that these kits are expandable, you have the option to change them out to any tubing that you want and use whatever coolant that you want. However, we do recommend staying away from the nano fluids and Mayhem's Aurora line of coolants. These have been shown to have issues over time due to the components in the coolant breaking down and settling in the loop where they can cause restriction or even possibly damage the pump.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The glossy tubing has an issue called plasticising, where over time the heat breaks down the tubing material and can cause clogging and/or damage to the pump. Swiftech recently replaced the glossy plastic tubing with rubber in order to combat the issue. DEHP (the plastic known to cause it) is found in most common tubings, but there are other varieties out there such as PrimoFlex PrimoChill Advanced LRT that are DEHP free.


so what can i do? do i just buy alternate tubings? i never changed them or know how to but if it is that big of an issue, i will need to learn asap. Or will i have to replace my whole unit?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> so what can i do? do i just buy alternate tubings? i never changed them or know how to but if it is that big of an issue, i will need to learn asap. Or will i have to replace my whole unit?


Well, I recently expanded mine with different tubing, it's not that hard! It's not a huge issue unless you have particularly hot components.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ytrameel*
> 
> I hate to be that guy, but there are basically 1500 pages. Is the pump in the Glacier 240L updated from the Swiftech H220? I'm building in an Ncase M1 and the H220X most likely won't fit, but I'm wanting a compact 2x 120 loop for my 4790k and a reference GTX 970. Goal is ideally silence, don't really overclock. Only have the 4790k because it was $100 with Intel retailedge.


I believe it's the same. They did make an update and the only way I know that you can tell is by opening the 240l glacer package and if the wires from the pump/block dissconnect than that's the new pump. Basically the same but fixed some of the issues. I had the glacer that didn't dissconnect and with cpu and gpu on two 240 rads it worked like a charm


----------



## deehoC

Welp scratch my last post. Gonna be a bit longer before I get my 240-X since I jumped the gun and tried purchasing without waiting for funds to clear my bank, now my cash is tied up temporarily.

Bryan and Swiftech have been very helpful sorting the situation out though and I look forward to properly doing business with them when I do get my cash.


----------



## wes1099

Brian, I have not been able to ship my H220-X to get the window fixed yet, do RMA numbers expire or anything?


----------



## v1ral

Where can I order a h220x?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Where can I order a h220x?


They might have them on the black market, but they are out of stock everywhere else. Swiftech doesn't even have any at their warehouse.


----------



## jvillaveces

Hello everyone. I recently completed a new build that includes two EVGA GLX980 SC ACX2.0. I used a Corsair 760T case, and cooled the CPU with a H100i that has been working well. The GPUs, however, are very hot, so I have been looking at liquid cooling alternatives, and I'm almost decided on an H240X modified to include two KOMODO-NV-GTX9 waterblocks instead of the CPU waterblock.

I have no experience with custom loops, so this semi-custom approach would seem ideal, but I have a lot of questions:

- Can I put the H240X in the front of the case, where the stock 140 mm fans go? I believe it would fit, but I don't know if it would operate correctly in that orientation; every picture I have found shows it mounted horizontally, not vertically.

- Assuming the answer is yes, I think I want to join the Komodos with Swiftech G¼ Male-Male Lok-Seal™ SLI & CrossFireX connector fittings, which come in three different sizes. My motherboard is an Asus Z97-Deluxe. Which size of connectors should I use?

- The Komodo waterblocks don't include fittings, plus I would need tubing to finish the loop between the second GPU and the 240X. Which size tubing and fittings should I get?

- Should I make provisions for filling and purging the loop?

Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## Mega Man

all swiftech blocks i have bough included barbs, unless somethings changed, however i didnt pay attention with the komodo 290x so maybe it doesnt

if that is what you want to use i prefer compression

either way hate to yell you, you are going full custom

so yea, welcome to the addiction the only "hybrid" i could see are the 2in 1 blocks * aircooler / watercooling * from certain owms

but really if you put together the loop it is full custom

1 yes i think so so long as you orient it properly ( check the instructions for proper orientation )

2 and 3 personal preference you probably will want to use the OEM size which is 3/8-5/8 iirc ( id-od ) {inside diameter -outside diameter }

4 personally i would recommend either capturing the coolant and filling the rest with distilled water OR just emptying it and using distilled with a bioscide ( pt nuke or iandh deadwater ) or a kill coil ( which personally i dont like )


----------



## fisher6

Anybody here using the 240x in a h440 case? I know the x220 would fit but how is it for the 240x. I'm looking at getting it since I have 2 Noctua NF A15 140mm fans I would like to use with them.


----------



## CSHawkeye

So added on the adapter for my H240X and it does make a difference with the pump noise. Now I just need to decide on which fans to use. Right now I am testing out 2 140mm fans that came with my Corsair H110i GT as that cooler is my backup.

Fan specs:

Fan dimensions: 140mm x 25mm
Fan speed: 2100 +/- 10% RPM
Fan airflow: 113 CFM
Fan static pressure: 3.99mm-H2O
Noise level: 43dB(A)


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Well, I recently expanded mine with different tubing, it's not that hard! It's not a huge issue unless you have particularly hot components.


sorry im a bit late. i had to work alot. anyway, the only hot or loud component i have is most likely my GTX 580. Other than that, i have silent components. As for the tubing, can you link me some really good tubing?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone, just want to know something about the AIO coolers especially for my H220X. I recently cleaned out and did a minor upgrade to my PC so i unmounted almost everything except mobo. When i took off the waterblock, i saw some ugly markings on it and almost black/grey marks near the screws. Will this affect temps? I used MX 4 as thermal paste and temps are good. My question is, since im anal about things like that, is it possible to change the copper piece from the H220X? or do i have to get a whole new unit?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> sorry im a bit late. i had to work alot. anyway, the only hot or loud component i have is most likely my GTX 580. Other than that, i have silent components. As for the tubing, can you link me some really good tubing?


I would advise the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing, it doesn't plasticise and comes in a variety of different colours to suit your build.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone, just want to know something about the AIO coolers especially for my H220X. I recently cleaned out and did a minor upgrade to my PC so i unmounted almost everything except mobo. When i took off the waterblock, i saw some ugly markings on it and almost black/grey marks near the screws. Will this affect temps? I used MX 4 as thermal paste and temps are good. My question is, since im anal about things like that, is it possible to change the copper piece from the H220X? or do i have to get a whole new unit?


If you really have to replace it, you can just replace the Apogee XL CPU block


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I would advise the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing, it doesn't plasticise and comes in a variety of different colours to suit your build.


WOW i just found my next tubing. I looked it up and saw reviews and it seems like the "go to" tubing for most advanced users. Thanks alot man. i will definately be contacting you when i make my purchase because i have absolutely no idea how to rreplace or know what i will be doing. I am willing to learn as that will help me in the future.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If you really have to replace it, you can just replace the Apogee XL CPU block


True, didnt think about that either. but it would be cheaper to just get the copper maybe


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> True, didnt think about that either. but it would be cheaper to just get the copper maybe


It would be safer to replace the entire block, because if the block started leaking right onto your CPU it would be a massively expensive disaster.


----------



## ZC4065

Do you have any pictures of the block?


----------



## NIK1

My new H240x with a KOMODO-HD7970 series full cover VGA water block, and extra rad will be here soon. Is there any videos and tips I need to install this setup. I have never had a loop cooling system before, just a H220 on a cpu and especially how to bleed the air out of the system after I get everything all hooked up. The one video I have on hand is the swiftech h220 vga expansion that shows the paper clip method in priming the pump to get the air out of the loop.Is this done the same way for the H240x.Any info appreciated.


----------



## Dyaems

Havent read the whole 150pages (100 posts per page) yet, and this question is probably answered already but I can't seem to find it on google. Maybe I'm using the wrong keywords.. I also did not find what I'm looking for at the first page so...

Anyways, I'm just wondering if there is any other thing needed if I plan to add another 240mm rad (prolly ST30 or EX240) and a GPU block? I also have followup questions:

Tubing, saw on Swiftech website that it uses 5/8" x 3/8" (16/10mm), I'm guessing 3/8" is the ID? Any recommendations if I plan to replace everything? I doubt the stock tubes are available in our country and LRT is kind of expensive. If it is worth it though...
Fittings, can I replace the stock ones with compression fittings? Or not recommended and just use the stock ones?
Distilled water? Coolant? What do I need besides either of those two? Recommendations?
Assuming I will be needing to remove all the coolant and add a new, how many L/mL do I need?
A separate reservoir, do I still need one? I doubt it but might as well ask.
I will also be using an Acetal/Nickel GPU block, will this have issues with the loop?
Forgot other questions...
I'm going to buy everything locally as much as possible to save shipping costs. So buying from the US/EU is out of the question. I might be needing that G1/4 adapter though.. and shipping is probably more expensive than the adapter itself.

Thank you in advance for any answers, this is the _first time_ that I will use an expandable AIO cooler, no funds yet to do a full custom loop so this is only temporary


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Havent read the whole 150pages (100 posts per page) yet, and this question is probably answered already but I can't seem to find it on google. Maybe I'm using the wrong keywords.. I also did not find what I'm looking for at the first page so...
> 
> Anyways, I'm just wondering if there is any other thing needed if I plan to add another 240mm rad (prolly ST30 or EX240) and a GPU block? I also have followup questions:
> 
> Tubing, saw on Swiftech website that it uses 5/8" x 3/8" (16/10mm), I'm guessing 3/8" is the ID? Any recommendations if I plan to replace everything? I doubt the stock tubes are available in our country and LRT is kind of expensive. If it is worth it though...
> Fittings, can I replace the stock ones with compression fittings? Or not recommended and just use the stock ones?
> Distilled water? Coolant? What do I need besides either of those two? Recommendations?
> Assuming I will be needing to remove all the coolant and add a new, how many L/mL do I need?
> A separate reservoir, do I still need one? I doubt it but might as well ask.
> I will also be using an Acetal/Nickel GPU block, will this have issues with the loop?
> Forgot other questions...
> I'm going to buy everything locally as much as possible to save shipping costs. So buying from the US/EU is out of the question. I might be needing that G1/4 adapter though.. and shipping is probably more expensive than the adapter itself.
> 
> Thank you in advance for any answers, this is the _first time_ that I will use an expandable AIO cooler, no funds yet to do a full custom loop so this is only temporary



Yes, 3/8 is the ID. I have Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and I think it is great. It is however the only tubing I have ever used other than the stock tubing on my H220-X. It will be a lot easier to get clean cuts on the tubing if you get a tubing cutter, but it is not necessary.
You can use any fittings you want as long as they are compatible with the tubing you choose.
All you need is distilled water and a biocide (to prevent living growth) such as this - http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide/dp/B008EH4STK
If you want colored coolant, I suggest looking at Mayhem's products. If you use Mayhem's pastel I do not think you need a biocide. I use plain distilled water with a few drops of PT Nuke PHN biocide and it works perfectly.
It is hard to estimate exactly how much coolant you would need, but you should probably get enough stuff for 1-2 liters.
You don't need another reservoir, but you can add one if you want. If you do add one you will use more coolant.
I do not think that would cause any issues.
Forgot other questions...


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> 
> Yes, 3/8 is the ID. I have Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and I think it is great. It is however the only tubing I have ever used other than the stock tubing on my H220-X. It will be a lot easier to get clean cuts on the tubing if you get a tubing cutter, but it is not necessary.
> You can use any fittings you want as long as they are compatible with the tubing you choose.
> All you need is distilled water and a biocide (to prevent living growth) such as this - http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide/dp/B008EH4STK
> If you want colored coolant, I suggest looking at Mayhem's products. If you use Mayhem's pastel I do not think you need a biocide. I use plain distilled water with a few drops of PT Nuke PHN biocide and it works perfectly.
> It is hard to estimate exactly how much coolant you would need, but you should probably get enough stuff for 1-2 liters.
> You don't need another reservoir, but you can add one if you want. If you do add one you will use more coolant.
> I do not think that would cause any issues.
> Forgot other questions...


Thanks for replying!

I maybe really needing to buy overseas if I will ever go with Advanced LRT, the local sellers here are selling clear Advanced LRTs here for roughly... $7/ft. I typed that right!

Is PT Nuke Cu Concentrated Biocide or Mayhem's Biocide is different from the one you linked?

Other answers would be helpful as well!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> My new H240x with a KOMODO-HD7970 series full cover VGA water block, and extra rad will be here soon. Is there any videos and tips I need to install this setup. I have never had a loop cooling system before, just a H220 on a cpu and especially how to bleed the air out of the system after I get everything all hooked up. The one video I have on hand is the swiftech h220 vga expansion that shows the paper clip method in priming the pump to get the air out of the loop.Is this done the same way for the H240x.Any info appreciated.


Here are the written instructions that I put together on how to do this:

What you'll need to do is after getting everything re-installed, tilt the case on its back and put a fitting on the fill-port cap on the radiator with a 5 inch length of tubing. Then you'll be able to go through the optical bays to fill and bleed the kit.

Start the pump up without having it connected to the motherboard. Do a Google search for how to jump start a PC power supply to find out how to do this. Then just connect your pump to a SATA power connector after you've added as much coolant as you can. You'll need to quickly shut it off though once all the coolant drains down into the loop and empties the reservoir. You don't want to have the pump suck on air.

Continue doing this until you can no longer get any coolant into it without it spilling out of the tubing that you have on the fill-port. At this point, you'll need to start gently rocking the case while the pump is running to get all of the air to move into the tubing on the fill-port. Continue adding coolant until you no longer have air going into the tubing. This will indicate that you've finished the bleeding process.

At this point, take some paper towels and place them around the fitting in the fill-port. Then begin unscrewing this fitting. The paper towels will soak up the remaining coolant and then you just put the cap back on and stand your case back up. Now, you'll complete the rest of your installation.

PM me if you have any questions about this.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Thanks for replying!
> 
> I maybe really needing to buy overseas if I will ever go with Advanced LRT, the local sellers here are selling clear Advanced LRTs here for roughly... $7/ft. I typed that right!
> 
> PT Nuke Cu Concentrated Biocide is different from the one you linked, right?
> 
> Other answers would be helpful as well!


Yeah, you might want to go with a different tubing unless you want to buy overseas. It is probably not worth it at $7/ft.

Yes, PA Nuke CU is different. The CU stands for copper sulfate pentahydrate, which is a former of copper. It will turn your coolant a slight tinge of blue and sometimes causes problems in loops with many different metals in the water blocks and radiators.


----------



## jvillaveces

You got me thinking. Maybe, instead of putting two AIOs into my system, I should scrap the H100i and run everything off the H140X, perhaps adding another rad for the GPUs? I don't know if the pump is strong enough, but given the complexity of installing the semi-custom loop just for the GPUs, it might not be that much more difficult to get it to cover the CPU as well, and it would certainly be a less "kludgy" approach. Would this sort of loop work: H240X -> CPU -> second rad TBD (would have to be front mounted) -> GPU1 ->GPU2 -> fill/purge port -> H240X ? If so, which second rad? which SLI interconnects? What size tubing?

One of the attractions of the AIO approach vs a custom loop is that it doesn't require maintenance, whereas this type of solution would. The other, of course, is the reduced probability of leaks, but I think I relinquish that with the semi-custom idea anyway, right?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> You got me thinking. Maybe, instead of putting two AIOs into my system, I should scrap the H100i and run everything off the H140X, perhaps adding another rad for the GPUs? I don't know if the pump is strong enough, but given the complexity of installing the semi-custom loop just for the GPUs, it might not be that much more difficult to get it to cover the CPU as well, and it would certainly be a less "kludgy" approach. Would this sort of loop work: H240X -> CPU -> second rad TBD (would have to be front mounted) -> GPU1 ->GPU2 -> fill/purge port -> H240X ? If so, which second rad? which SLI interconnects? What size tubing?
> 
> One of the attractions of the AIO approach vs a custom loop is that it doesn't require maintenance, whereas this type of solution would. The other, of course, is the reduced probability of leaks, but I think I relinquish that with the semi-custom idea anyway, right?


Well, it would certainly be a lot quieter. And perform worlds better. And would look sooooo much better.

Yes, the downside would be a couple of hours (if you take it really slow) of maintenance every year or so. But that is a tiny price to pay for all of the gains. And if you take your time and make your connections correctly, the chances of a leak are really no more than an AiO.

The pump will be fine in that scenario, but I would strongly recommend adding a reservoir, even the smallest, simplest one. It will make filling, bleeding and maintenance a breeze. Also, loop order has little to no affect on performance, so you would likely want to do CPU-GPU-GPU to keep things neat and not have tubing running every which way.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Yeah, you might want to go with a different tubing unless you want to buy overseas. It is probably not worth it at $7/ft.
> 
> Yes, PA Nuke CU is different. The CU stands for copper sulfate pentahydrate, which is a former of copper. It will turn your coolant a slight tinge of blue and sometimes causes problems in loops with many different metals in the water blocks and radiators.


Gotcha. So I may be really needing to buy overseas for these things. Only available here is the Nuke CU. Might as well buy 10-ft pack of Advanced LRT while I'm at it if that is the case.

---

I have more questions for anyone:

Since the H220X is usually mounted at the top, near the 5.25" bays, how do you drain/fill the loop if the case does not have 5.25" bays like a Phanteks Evolv since the port is blocked? I'm going to use that case, and mounting it in front might not be possible due to the width of the H220X radiator. It would be nice if I can though, since the port is going to be at the bottom, problem is I also probably need to turn the case upside down when filling it








Do I _really_ need to use the G1/4 adapter? Can I just use the stock barb/clamp in there and use a different fitting on another end, assuming the tube size is going to be the same as the stock tubes? I think the outlet is fairly hidden anyway, basing on pics. If I really need to, I might as well buy some Swiftech fittings as well.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Gotcha. So I may be really needing to buy overseas for these things. Only available here is the Nuke CU. Might as well buy 10-ft pack of Advanced LRT while I'm at it if that is the case.
> 
> ---
> 
> I have more questions for anyone:
> 
> Since the H220X is usually mounted at the top, near the 5.25" bays, how do you drain/fill the loop if the case does not have 5.25" bays like a Phanteks Evolv since the port is blocked? I'm going to use that case, and mounting it in front might not be possible due to the width of the H220X radiator. It would be nice if I can though, since the port is going to be at the bottom, problem is I also probably need to turn the case upside down when filling it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I _really_ need to use the G1/4 adapter? Can I just use the stock barb/clamp in there and use a different fitting on another end, assuming the tube size is going to be the same as the stock tubes? I think the outlet is fairly hidden anyway, basing on pics. If I really need to, I might as well buy some Swiftech fittings as well.


If the port is blocked by the front bay, like it is with the Enthoo Evolve, then filling and bleeding it is going to be very difficult. You may have to do it outside of the case and then reinstall it. I don't see any easy way to do this.

No, if you're going to use the same sized tubing then you don't really need the adapter. You can use 3/8 by 5/8 compression fittings on all of the other ports and not have to touch the pump outlet fitting. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If the port is blocked by the front bay, like it is with the Enthoo Evolve, then filling and bleeding it is going to be very difficult. You may have to do it outside of the case and then reinstall it. I don't see any easy way to do this.
> 
> No, if you're going to use the same sized tubing then you don't really need the adapter. You can use 3/8 by 5/8 compression fittings on all of the other ports and not have to touch the pump outlet fitting. I hope this answers your questions.


Yup, I got my answers! Thank you.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody here using the 240x in a h440 case? I know the x220 would fit but how is it for the 240x. I'm looking at getting it since I have 2 Noctua NF A15 140mm fans I would like to use with them.


this person has the cooler http://pcpartpicker.com/b/gpRG3C along with other folks


----------



## xaeryan

Does anyone have any videos of the H220X or H240X demonstrating what the pumps sound like at various settings (there are different settings, right?).

I'm OCD about having a dead silent rig at idle and am concerned about hearing pump hum. Right now the only fans that spin in my rig at idle are the PSU (400rpm) and CPU (D15 @ 250rpm x2). Both of which I absolutely cannot hear until I place my ear right on them.

My other concern is that at low pump/fan speeds the H220X/240X might not have an edge on my D15... seems like there's a minimum speed required for these to hold their significant edge at full load. I don't mind a little noise when under load, but if it's going to require significantly more speeds than my D15, I might stick with it. Big air seems to do well at lower fan speeds.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaeryan*
> 
> Does anyone have any videos of the H220X or H240X demonstrating what the pumps sound like at various settings (there are different settings, right?).
> 
> I'm OCD about having a dead silent rig at idle and am concerned about hearing pump hum. Right now the only fans that spin in my rig at idle are the PSU (400rpm) and CPU (D15 @ 250rpm x2). Both of which I absolutely cannot hear until I place my ear right on them.
> 
> My other concern is that at low pump/fan speeds the H220X/240X might not have an edge on my D15... seems like there's a minimum speed required for these to hold their significant edge at full load. I don't mind a little noise when under load, but if it's going to require significantly more speeds than my D15, I might stick with it. Big air seems to do well at lower fan speeds.


your settings would be using the pwm in your bios or a program that modifies pwm signals


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaeryan*
> 
> Does anyone have any videos of the H220X or H240X demonstrating what the pumps sound like at various settings (there are different settings, right?).
> 
> I'm OCD about having a dead silent rig at idle and am concerned about hearing pump hum. Right now the only fans that spin in my rig at idle are the PSU (400rpm) and CPU (D15 @ 250rpm x2). Both of which I absolutely cannot hear until I place my ear right on them.
> 
> My other concern is that at low pump/fan speeds the H220X/240X might not have an edge on my D15... seems like there's a minimum speed required for these to hold their significant edge at full load. I don't mind a little noise when under load, but if it's going to require significantly more speeds than my D15, I might stick with it. Big air seems to do well at lower fan speeds.


Have you checked out Rodney Reynold's videos (3DGameMan)? The only instances where the pump might be a nuisance is if you replace the fans with very low-speed fans and have the case sitting only a foot or two away from your head. I had a customer recently complain of this because the very slight whine from the pump's electronics bothered him.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> this person has the cooler http://pcpartpicker.com/b/gpRG3C along with other folks


Yeah but this build just used it for the CPU. If you wanted to expand it to use your GPU or change the tubing / coolant then that is where not having the front bays would be a pain in the rear.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Yeah but this build just used it for the CPU. If you wanted to expand it to use your GPU or change the tubing / coolant then that is where not having the front bays would be a pain in the rear.


As long as you don't have a radiator there you should be fine. If that's what you intend to do then this will make things a bit more tricky and thus force you to fill and bleed the entire loop outside of the case.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Yeah but this build just used it for the CPU. If you wanted to expand it to use your GPU or change the tubing / coolant then that is where not having the front bays would be a pain in the rear.


Fisher asked if it would fit, i showed him a link showing that it does indeed fit so yes while the build i linked is just used for the cpu i was just answering his question


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaeryan*
> 
> Does anyone have any videos of the H220X or H240X demonstrating what the pumps sound like at various settings (there are different settings, right?).
> 
> I'm OCD about having a dead silent rig at idle and am concerned about hearing pump hum. Right now the only fans that spin in my rig at idle are the PSU (400rpm) and CPU (D15 @ 250rpm x2). Both of which I absolutely cannot hear until I place my ear right on them.
> 
> My other concern is that at low pump/fan speeds the H220X/240X might not have an edge on my D15... seems like there's a minimum speed required for these to hold their significant edge at full load. I don't mind a little noise when under load, but if it's going to require significantly more speeds than my D15, I might stick with it. Big air seems to do well at lower fan speeds.


more importantly i have NEVER seen a camera accurately duplicate sound like you want as you can turn up /down the volume i think the best place to look is

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/10/


----------



## DarkIdeals

Ok, maybe i'm just stupid but i can't find the Coolermaster Glacer 360l for sale ANYWHERE! I've checked nwegg, amazon, ncix etc.. Does anyone know where to buy one of these? I'm looking for a cooler to temporarily cool my I7 4820K until my SMA8 case comes in from caselabs (20-25 business day wait) and i'd have to wait to finish my water cooling loop anyway since i got the new GTX980 Kingpin cards and there's no waterblock out for them yet.

So my plan was to either air cool the 980 KPE or use universal blocks until full cover EK blocks are released, so in the mean time i'd need a good liquid cooler that can handle a cpu and possibly the two kingpin cards.

Obviously i would be looking at either the swiftech (H220x/240x) or the CM Glacer series as they are expandable allowing me to incorporate my MCP655-B pump and 250mm Cylinder res into the loop and swap the CM/Swiftech cpu block for my EK Supremacy EVO. But i'd have to at least get the Swiftech H240X since i'm planning to eventually "retire" the pump/block and keep the copper radiator to use in my custom water loop, so i'd want a good sized rad; plus if i'm gonna be cooling two gpus with dual 8 pin + one 6 pin power on EACH card as well as a cpu, looking at 24/7 overclocks of 4.6ghz (cpu) and 1,550-1,600mhz (gpu) for gaming, i'll need some good rad space and the 480mm XSPC EX480 i have might not be enough even combined with a 240 rad, so a 280/360 is tempting.

I noticed that Newegg has a "V2.0" of the Glacer 240l, anyone know the differences? but i just can't find the 360l.


----------



## Mega Man

@DarkIdeals

http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/10809-sneak-peak-%E2%80%93-glacer-360l/page-3

serious question

you have everything but the rad?

why not just buy a rad some fittings and the tubing ?

if you really want the rad

http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx

however you have a decent setup it sounds like, and as much as i love the h220 imo you would be better served with a normal rad as the fittings make these rads higher restriction


----------



## crazyxelite

hi everyone i got my fx 8320 at 4.7ghz at 1.404 temp 62c and now runing 4.9ghz 1.476 hiting 68c prime95. is that good?


----------



## Mega Man

not bad gj


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Ok, maybe i'm just stupid but i can't find the Coolermaster Glacer 360l for sale ANYWHERE! I've checked nwegg, amazon, ncix etc.. Does anyone know where to buy one of these? I'm looking for a cooler to temporarily cool my I7 4820K until my SMA8 case comes in from caselabs (20-25 business day wait) and i'd have to wait to finish my water cooling loop anyway since i got the new GTX980 Kingpin cards and there's no waterblock out for them yet.
> 
> So my plan was to either air cool the 980 KPE or use universal blocks until full cover EK blocks are released, so in the mean time i'd need a good liquid cooler that can handle a cpu and possibly the two kingpin cards.
> 
> Obviously i would be looking at either the swiftech (H220x/240x) or the CM Glacer series as they are expandable allowing me to incorporate my MCP655-B pump and 250mm Cylinder res into the loop and swap the CM/Swiftech cpu block for my EK Supremacy EVO. But i'd have to at least get the Swiftech H240X since i'm planning to eventually "retire" the pump/block and keep the copper radiator to use in my custom water loop, so i'd want a good sized rad; plus if i'm gonna be cooling two gpus with dual 8 pin + one 6 pin power on EACH card as well as a cpu, looking at 24/7 overclocks of 4.6ghz (cpu) and 1,550-1,600mhz (gpu) for gaming, i'll need some good rad space and the 480mm XSPC EX480 i have might not be enough even combined with a 240 rad, so a 280/360 is tempting.
> 
> I noticed that Newegg has a "V2.0" of the Glacer 240l, anyone know the differences? but i just can't find the 360l.


Did the 360L ever make it to the retail market in the US with mass availability? It was planned, delayed, delayed some more, then faded away in the midst of patent trolling.

The V2.0 apparently signifies that it has the pump revision that solved an issue found on the first run of 240L that caused some pump failures.

Personally, I would stick with the X series, especially of you are looking at expanding as you mentioned, since you can use G1/4 fittings on the rad and it will come with Swiftech's flagship GPU block in the package.

You are also way overestimating the amount of rad that you *need*. The EX480 would do a nice job on your setup by itself. Combined with a 220 or 240X, it is more than enough.


----------



## crazyxelite

yea i will stop now..probably i can do 5 ghz if i put noctua fans on it and a change my case.. buti cant get it stable for now even with 1.5v


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> yea i will stop now..probably i can do 5 ghz if i put noctua fans on it and a change my case.. buti cant get it stable for now even with 1.5v


Odd assumption. The PPC fans will up performance a touch, but will sound like a freight train in the room doing it.

You need to realize that all of the "I changed my fans out to Noctuas with less airflow and static pressure and my temps dropped 30 degrees!" posts are as ridiculous as they sound. They are not based in any facts that exist on this particular planet.


----------



## jvillaveces

If I went this route, how large would the second rad need to be? I would be cooling the cpu and two gpus, so by the "120 mm per component" rule I would need 360 mm, right? 360 mm less the 280mm on the 240x would mean an extra 80 mm are required. So, a 120 should do just fine? How about extea coolant to account for the extended loop plus extra rad: another res? If so, which? How would one fill or purge a loop with two reservoirs?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> If I went this route, how large would the second rad need to be? I would be cooling the cpu and two gpus, so by the "120 mm per component" rule I would need 360 mm, right? 360 mm less the 280mm on the 240x would mean an extra 80 mm are required. So, a 120 should do just fine? How about extea coolant to account for the extended loop plus extra rad: another res? If so, which? How would one fill or purge a loop with two reservoirs?


It's 120mm per component plus 120mm excess, so tbh if you can fit a 240mm I would advise it. You do not need an extra reservoir, and you shouldn't need a second pump though if you're worried about flow rate you can add one.


----------



## wes1099

Finally got my H220-X shipped for RMA! Hopefully nothing grows in it or corrodes it while in shipping, because I could not get all the moisture out even letting it sit out to dry for 2 days.


----------



## Iamthebull

Where is the best place to order an H-220X currently? Thought it was $139.99? Last I saw NCIX had it for $169.99.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iamthebull*
> 
> Where is the best place to order an H-220X currently? Thought it was $139.99? Last I saw NCIX had it for $169.99.


the 139.99 is direct from swiftech...if you buy from reseller they must do a markup otherwise they wouldn't make any money...


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the 139.99 is direct from swiftech...if you buy from reseller they must do a markup otherwise they wouldn't make any money...


NCIXUS had it for $136 in January.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iamthebull*
> 
> Where is the best place to order an H-220X currently? Thought it was $139.99? Last I saw NCIX had it for $169.99.


It is $139 from swiftech, but you will also have to pay shipping which was another $16 for me.


----------



## JAM3S121

I'm going to be ordering a H220X as soon as its in stock to replace my aging H100. (['ve had the h100 since summer 2011 ish and it has a dead fan controller)

I have 2x SP 120 fans, should I use these or go with the helix fans that come with h220x?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm going to be ordering a H220X as soon as its in stock to replace my aging H100. (['ve had the h100 since summer 2011 ish and it has a dead fan controller)
> 
> I have 2x SP 120 fans, should I use these or go with the helix fans that come with h220x?


The SP120 fans are good, but they are overkill for the H220-x radiator and noisier as well!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> The SP120 fans are good, but they are overkill for the H220-x radiator and noisier as well!


helix fans do well imo...even at 100 percent they aren't all that loud


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> helix fans do well imo...even at 100 percent they aren't all that loud


I know, that's what I said, the SP120s are loud


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,finally had a day off to do some stress testing with Aida64. I have a 4670k paired with a H220X. the chip IS delidded. Without any further ado, are these temps good? considering the voltage, delidded and the cooler. If it matters, i used CLP and MX4 as thermal paste. I just want your guys opinions.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey everyone,finally had a day off to do some stress testing with Aida64. I have a 4670k paired with a H220X. the chip IS delidded. Without any further ado, are these temps good? considering the voltage, delidded and the cooler. If it matters, i used CLP and MX4 as thermal paste. I just want your guys opinions.


I own a lidded 4670k overclocked to 4.2GHz. When I hadn't customised the loop, I was getting 65C max, so yes that's about right.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I own a lidded 4670k overclocked to 4.2GHz. When I hadn't customised the loop, I was getting 65C max, so yes that's about right.


when you say lidded, you mean de-lidded right? i dont get it tho, i had gave up on stressing because of a firmware issue i was having,take a look at this.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> I own a lidded 4670k overclocked to 4.2GHz. When I hadn't customised the loop, I was getting 65C max, so yes that's about right.


also, what did you do to customize your loop? i didnt do anything, it is still stock


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> when you say lidded, you mean de-lidded right? i dont get it tho, i had gave up on stressing because of a firmware issue i was having,take a look at this.


Nope, as in it still has the lid. I tend not to use Prime95 as it always had a problem with Haswell, try every other benchmarking tool and take a general average of your temps.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> also, what did you do to customize your loop? i didnt do anything, it is still stock


Added my 7990 to the loop along with 2 120mm radiators. Very impressed by the results!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Added my 7990 to the loop along with 2 120mm radiators. Very impressed by the results!


ok ok ok,i have the money to do that BUT i dont know where or how to start! i wanna do the same exact thing. the issue that imhaving is i have a gtx 580( no shame either) but i will be upgrading this year i am 100% sure on that. But if i do what you did, should i wait until i get my new gpu? or i can do that now and switch it out?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> ok ok ok,i have the money to do that BUT i dont know where or how to start! i wanna do the same exact thing. the issue that imhaving is i have a gtx 580( no shame either) but i will be upgrading this year i am 100% sure on that. But if i do what you did, should i wait until i get my new gpu? or i can do that now and switch it out?


It depends on when you're replacing the GPU. If it's soon, I'd wait in order to save redoing the loop and getting another waterblock and things like that.

What's a list of your complete specs, including the next GPU you're looking at.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> ok ok ok,i have the money to do that BUT i dont know where or how to start! i wanna do the same exact thing. the issue that imhaving is i have a gtx 580( no shame either) but i will be upgrading this year i am 100% sure on that. But if i do what you did, should i wait until i get my new gpu? or i can do that now and switch it out?


It is highly unlikely that a waterblock for the 580 would fit any of the new cards so I'd wait and get the new GPU and a block for it unless you can find a cheap used one for the 580 in the mean time.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> It is highly unlikely that a waterblock for the 580 would fit any of the new cards so I'd wait and get the new GPU and a block for it unless you can find a cheap used one for the 580 in the mean time.


If he's upgrading from a 580 to anything reasonably new, I am 99.9% sure the waterblock won't work


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If he's upgrading from a 580 to anything reasonably new, I am 99.9% sure the waterblock won't work


Exactly why I said its highly unlikely.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Exactly why I said its highly unlikely.


Wat do you think of my temps tho? just curious. look a few posts back and tell me what you think please. I am in no means an expert.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> If he's upgrading from a 580 to anything reasonably new, I am 99.9% sure the waterblock won't work


thanks for the suggestions. so i might as well wait until i get a new card then right? I dont think i would get a WB for my 580 knowing i will be upgrading in a few months. Although i am so hoping my GTX 580 dies so that i am forced to get a new one. This thing pulls so much power, it is hot and kinda of noisy, its the noisiest thing in my entire build.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> thanks for the suggestions. so i might as well wait until i get a new card then right? I dont think i would get a WB for my 580 knowing i will be upgrading in a few months. Although i am so hoping my GTX 580 dies so that i am forced to get a new one. This thing pulls so much power, it is hot and kinda of noisy, its the noisiest thing in my entire build.


Water cooling is silent, one of the main attractions! In order to know what you need in a loop, you need to have an idea of what GPU you're looking at in order to know the best radiator layout. Dual GPU cards or CFX/SLI setups require more radiators and other components than single cards such as the 980 or 290x.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Water cooling is silent, one of the main attractions! In order to know what you need in a loop, you need to have an idea of what GPU you're looking at in order to know the best radiator layout. Dual GPU cards or CFX/SLI setups require more radiators and other components than single cards such as the 980 or 290x.


really? i didnt know i would need more rads for more than 1 card. damn that just ruins everything lol


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> really? i didnt know i would need more rads for more than 1 card. damn that just ruins everything lol


The *GENERAL* rule is that you should have 120mm of radiator for each GPU (as in the single GPU, dual-GPU cards count as 2) and then 120mm excess. I didn't put the excess on and I'm fine, but that's just for me, it might not be the same for you.

Adding a card onto the H220-x without another radiator is pushing the limits of what it can handle. When going into the effort of custom cooling, it's always better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Wat do you think of my temps tho? just curious. look a few posts back and tell me what you think please. I am in no means an expert.
> thanks for the suggestions. so i might as well wait until i get a new card then right? I dont think i would get a WB for my 580 knowing i will be upgrading in a few months. Although i am so hoping my GTX 580 dies so that i am forced to get a new one. This thing pulls so much power, it is hot and kinda of noisy, its the noisiest thing in my entire build.


I've got no experience with newer Intel CPUs so I can't chime in on your temperatures accurately, sorry about that. I'll leave that for someone more knowledgeable


----------



## EarlZ

A friend of mine included an overclocked 780Ti on his H220X and the temps for the GPU are about 65c and about a 5c increase on the over all max CPU temp, though I do not have the ambient temp figures. Though the exhaust on the radiator is very hot.


----------



## kevindd992002

After using the H220-X for about two months (actual hours of use would approximately be less than 2 weeks due to the busy schedule), I think the pump FAILED! I was testing my overclock last week and it was a success. I then left the system turned off since around last week Wednesday until now. When I turned on the system now, it gave me a CPU over temperature error. I checked the SATA power connection of the pump and the PWM/RPM cable to the motherboard and everything was in tact. The motherboard doesn't read any RPM output from the pump as displayed in the BIOS setup menu.

I tried connecting the SATA power connection to another SATA cable (which I'm 100% sure it is working as it is the one connected to my SSD and the white LED on the radiator acrylic window lights up when connected) and tried connecting the PWM/RPM cable to another PWM header that I definitely know is working also (as I have two CPU headers in my mobo, one is the CPU header and the other is the CPU_OPT and they are connected to the same PWM trace in the motherboard) to no avail.

I checked the little hole inside the acrylic window to see if the PWM motor is spinning and it is definitely NOT!

I thought these pump-related issues were left behind to the H220? Did they really carry over to the H220-X also? Is this pretty common? I haven't fully utilized my system with this AIO and now it's dead.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> really? i didnt know i would need more rads for more than 1 card. damn that just ruins everything lol


It also really depends on the GPU too. I did put a 4670k at 4.5 + a GTX 970 (OC'd pretty high, 1519/7800) on a single H240x loop. My CPU was only 66c at load (obviously Prime 95 will bring it up to near 80, but no actual games or programs are even that stupid to be pull that amount of heat on a CPU) and my 970 was only 56c max.

I added a 140 rad later on and my 970 was stupidly cool at 48c max load. In the process of adding a 240 rad in the future to finally get my SLI 970s in water, but yeah it relly also depends on your GPU. Fermi 580 is a huge die that was nearly as hot as AMD's 290x, so you'd definitely need extra rad space on top of the H220/H240x.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> After using the H220-X for about two months (actual hours of use would approximately be less than 2 weeks due to the busy schedule), I think the pump FAILED! I was testing my overclock last week and it was a success. I then left the system turned off since around last week Wednesday until now. When I turned on the system now, it gave me a CPU over temperature error. I checked the SATA power connection of the pump and the PWM/RPM cable to the motherboard and everything was in tact. The motherboard doesn't read any RPM output from the pump as displayed in the BIOS setup menu.
> 
> I tried connecting the SATA power connection to another SATA cable (which I'm 100% sure it is working as it is the one connected to my SSD and the white LED on the radiator acrylic window lights up when connected) and tried connecting the PWM/RPM cable to another PWM header that I definitely know is working also (as I have two CPU headers in my mobo, one is the CPU header and the other is the CPU_OPT and they are connected to the same PWM trace in the motherboard) to no avail.
> 
> I checked the little hole inside the acrylic window to see if the PWM motor is spinning and it is definitely NOT!
> 
> I thought these pump-related issues were left behind to the H220? Did they really carry over to the H220-X also? Is this pretty common? I haven't fully utilized my system with this AIO and now it's dead.


Kevin, all you have to do is look on these forums and you'll see that this isn't an issue with these kits. We have had a few with cracked reservoirs and noisy pumps, but pump failures are practically non-existent with these kits.

Out of the nearly 5,000 units that we've sold we've had 2 pump failures. Yours would be the third if it is, in fact dead. That's well below the industry standard of about 2.5% for pump failures and these kits have been out now since July of last year. These aren't at all the same pumps that the H220 and H320 had. I responded to your email this morning and I look forward to hearing from you soon.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Kevin, all you have to do is look on these forums and you'll see that this isn't an issue with these kits. We have had a few with cracked reservoirs and noisy pumps, but pump failures are practically non-existent with these kits.
> 
> Out of the nearly 5,000 units that we've sold we've had 2 pump failures. Yours would be the third if it is, in fact dead. That's well below the industry standard of about 2.5% for pump failures and these kits have been out now since July of last year. These aren't at all the same pumps that the H220 and H320 had. I responded to your email this morning and I look forward to hearing from you soon.


You're right. Sorry, I guess my post came out to be more of an assumption when my intent was just to ask. I did search the Internet and didn't find any pump failures related to the H220-X which is why I'm kind of baffled why bad fate struck me.

I responded to your email just now.


----------



## twitchyzero

http://www.overclock.net/t/1545464/avoid-swiftech-false-advertising-failure-killed-my-chip-neglect-ensues


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> It also really depends on the GPU too. I did put a 4670k at 4.5 + a GTX 970 (OC'd pretty high, 1519/7800) on a single H240x loop. My CPU was only 66c at load (obviously Prime 95 will bring it up to near 80, but no actual games or programs are even that stupid to be pull that amount of heat on a CPU) and my 970 was only 56c max.
> 
> I added a 140 rad later on and my 970 was stupidly cool at 48c max load. In the process of adding a 240 rad in the future to finally get my SLI 970s in water, but yeah it relly also depends on your GPU. Fermi 580 is a huge die that was nearly as hot as AMD's 290x, so you'd definitely need extra rad space on top of the H220/H240x.


valid points you make there my friend. thank you so much for that information. Honestly, im just gonna wait it out until i get my new GPU. But out of curiosity, what are good radiators?


----------



## Dry Bonez

WOW, after months of getting this H220X, i can now ENJOY my unit. I ran some stressing yesterday with my 4670k at a whopping 1.43V @4.7 and didnt even break to 80c. WOW. I am unabe to get 4.7 without pushing that voltage really high, i was just curious to see what it would be like to put it on its knees. I dont know whats the fuss with pump failures and cracked screens. But i am loving my piece. But i do have a question, can people hear there fans at full speed? or is it just me? How would i know(noob) at finding out if the pump is messed up?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> WOW, after months of getting this H220X, i can now ENJOY my unit. I ran some stressing yesterday with my 4670k at a whopping 1.43V @4.7 and didnt even break to 80c. WOW. I am unabe to get 4.7 without pushing that voltage really high, i was just curious to see what it would be like to put it on its knees. I dont know whats the fuss with pump failures and cracked screens. But i am loving my piece. But i do have a question, can people hear there fans at full speed? or is it just me? How would i know(noob) at finding out if the pump is messed up?


fan audibility is mostly dependant on case. My case(Silverstone Precision 07 Black Windowed(PSB07-W)) has a front panel for a dual 120mm filter+fan) and a 120mm exhaust in the back. I run 5 rans total(2 gelid PL UV at lowest fan speeds) and stock swiftech helix's at 40% pwm speed, as well as a rear Corsair 120SP fan in the back. with doors closed, placing phone in front of case is 33 decibels of noise. With Door open(open air flow) its 40 decibels

just do note that this is 40%. Expect for it to be louder if i ramp to 100%, but i have absolutely 0 reason to go higher in my case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You're right. Sorry, I guess my post came out to be more of an assumption when my intent was just to ask. I did search the Internet and didn't find any pump failures related to the H220-X which is why I'm kind of baffled why bad fate struck me.
> 
> I responded to your email just now.


I just got home and surprisingly when I turned on the computer the pump started working again. I'm baffled and confused at this point as to what happened. I haven't touched anything since my troubleshooting earlier. I left the system when the pump was dead and not working. There is no problem with the 12V line as indicated by the white LED of the acrylic window.

What could've caused this?


----------



## FreeElectron

H320 or H240x?

In terms of

Reliability
Performance

@BramSLI1

Will be using it with 5930k.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> valid points you make there my friend. thank you so much for that information. Honestly, im just gonna wait it out until i get my new GPU. But out of curiosity, what are good radiators?


I like Alpha Cool UT and ST rads. They have downsides (extremely dirty, need a good flush before usage) but I think they do strike the right price/performance ratio, at least at where I'm getting them from. Though in my limited experience, I do not actually see a significant difference between rads from different companies, comparing them at the same size that is. It's really about how much rad space you allow the water to cool efficiently, that's the key.

It's unlike air coolers where say a Noctua DH-15 > Phanteks PH-TC14PE, where the difference are actually quite noticeable. Of course price wise, that's a different story as the Phanteks is much cheaper too. Just an example.


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> valid points you make there my friend. thank you so much for that information. Honestly, im just gonna wait it out until i get my new GPU. But out of curiosity, what are good radiators?


As Ben says, there isn't really much difference between brands, it's more about the right specifications for you! There are 3 main things to take into consideration:

Length = How long a radiator can you fit, 120, 140 are 1 fan, 240, 280 are 2 fans, and so on.
Thickness = The width of the radiator, ie. 30mm, 45mm, 60mm etc. This is a good solution if you don't have much room for a long radiator.
Density = You've probably heard the term FPI thrown around, which stands for Fins per Inch. This is how dense the radiator is, the denser it is, the better the cooling. However, for denser radiators you need higher static pressure fans such as the SP120s which tend to be louder.


----------



## fisher6

Is there a difference between the 220x and 240x when it comes to cooling 2 GTX 970s and the CPU? Would the 240x add any benefit?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Just joined the club! Picked up an H240x off PPCs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is there a difference between the 220x and 240x when it comes to cooling 2 GTX 970s and the CPU? Would the 240x add any benefit?


Larger surface space for cooling?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just got home and surprisingly when I turned on the computer the pump started working again. I'm baffled and confused at this point as to what happened. I haven't touched anything since my troubleshooting earlier. I left the system when the pump was dead and not working. There is no problem with the 12V line as indicated by the white LED of the acrylic window.
> 
> What could've caused this?


firstly the led is powered by the motherboard connector....unsure if you have the newer version but if you dont check the connector to the bottom of the pump and be sure it's connected well...are you getting pump noise or it just stopped pumping? I had mine stop once and it turned out I had bumped that connector and it was making connection but not fully


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is there a difference between the 220x and 240x when it comes to cooling 2 GTX 970s and the CPU? Would the 240x add any benefit?


you will want more rad space than either of the two kits for that but with either of these kits you can pretty easily add another rad assuming you have room







I would got with the 240 and add another rad...to directly answer your question...there is a difference but it's not a lot at all...we are talking 2c or so


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> firstly the led is powered by the motherboard connector....unsure if you have the newer version but if you dont check the connector to the bottom of the pump and be sure it's connected well...are you getting pump noise or it just stopped pumping? I had mine stop once and it turned out I had bumped that connector and it was making connection but not fully


I have the newer version wherein the LED is powered by the SATA cable that is also powering the pump. The motherboard connector is just for RPM and PWM signal readings.

I'm a 100% sure that it is connected well. Because if it isn't (or when I purposely unplug the SATA connector from the PSU), the LED will turn off.

It just really stopped pumping, no noise at all. When I touch one of the tubes, it is hot but the other isn't. These indicate that the liquid is not circulating along the loop.

I haven't done anything. I left the system with the pump still dead and when I came back from work I turned it back on and it started working again.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is there a difference between the 220x and 240x when it comes to cooling 2 GTX 970s and the CPU? Would the 240x add any benefit?


For 2x 970s, you definitely need at least another 240 rad. A single H220x/H240x is NOT enough, you might as well just stick to air cooling. If it's a single 970, the H240x alone is borderline good enough.
I did have my 970 on a single H240x loop, temps were at 66c max. My card is BIOS modded to run at 1.237v, 1519/7800 OC. So... yeah, air cooling was pretty much just as good. Adding a 140 rad significantly improved temps though, dropped a good 12c off load (54c max).


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> For 2x 970s, you definitely need at least another 240 rad. A single H220x/H240x is NOT enough, you might as well just stick to air cooling. If it's a single 970, the H240x alone is borderline good enough.
> I did have my 970 on a single H240x loop, temps were at 66c max. My card is BIOS modded to run at 1.237v, 1519/7800 OC. So... yeah, air cooling was pretty much just as good. Adding a 140 rad significantly improved temps though, dropped a good 12c off load (54c max).


I think you have a bad mounting in your 970 waterblock.
I have a msi 970 watercooled ( 2x140 thin rads for CPU and GPU in the same loop) and OC to 1314mhz (1453mhz GPU boost) 7500mhz memory and +50 core voltage, and the max temp with furmark (1080 and 8x aa) is 66ºC.


----------



## Jhya

I have a Swiftech H220 in my system. Last week I noticed water stains on the back plate of my video card, so i opened up the system and realized the radiator was slowing dripping fluid from one of the elbow fitting. So I took out the radiator and contacted Swiftech support.

IMG_0144.JPG 1989k .JPG file


They told me that Swiftech no longer makes the H220 cooler due to patent infringement, and they do not have any more replacement units to ship to me. At this point I'm not sure what my options are. I'm currently running my slowly leaking cooler with the radiator sitting outside my tower case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhya*
> 
> I have a Swiftech H220 in my system. Last week I noticed water stains on the back plate of my video card, so i opened up the system and realized the radiator was slowing dripping fluid from one of the elbow fitting. So I took out the radiator and contacted Swiftech support.
> 
> IMG_0144.JPG 1989k .JPG file
> 
> 
> They told me that Swiftech no longer makes the H220 cooler due to patent infringement, and they do not have any more replacement units to ship to me. At this point I'm not sure what my options are. I'm currently running my slowly leaking cooler with the radiator sitting outside my tower case.


PM me about this. I think I have a solution for you.


----------



## NIK1

I am building my H240x Loop today and have all my parts form Swiftech and ncix.My question is about hose clamps. What is best to use, the metal worm drive clamps, or the nylon snap in clamps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am building my H240x Loop today and have all my parts form Swiftech and ncix.My question is about hose clamps. What is best to use, the metal worm drive clamps, or the nylon snap in clamps.


Both have their benefits and shortcomings. Worm drive clamps can be more secure, but they don't look all that great and can cut into the tubing and defeat their purpose. Nylon snap clamps aren't as secure but can be more easily hidden depending on the color of the tubing. I prefer compression fittings, but it's really a personal choice as to which clamp you want to use.


----------



## NIK1

I have the Swiftech ⅜” x ⅝” Lok-Seal Compression Fittings. So you just push the hose on and that's it.No clamp is needed on the hose.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have the Swiftech ⅜" x ⅝" Lok-Seal Compression Fittings. So you just push the hose on and that's it.No clamp is needed on the hose.


Yes, that's correct. Compression fittings don't need clamps.


----------



## NIK1

Thanks.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> I think you have a bad mounting in your 970 waterblock.
> I have a msi 970 watercooled ( 2x140 thin rads for CPU and GPU in the same loop) and OC to 1314mhz (1453mhz GPU boost) 7500mhz memory and +50 core voltage, and the max temp with furmark (1080 and 8x aa) is 66ºC.


Which... is pretty much the same as what I got, 66c. The H240x = 2x140 rads.

I also live in a hot country (Malaysia), ambient temps are around 37-40c here in the day time and high 20s at night. The 4670k is also hitting 1.35v @ 4.5ghz. I'm certain the waterblock on the 970 is mounted perfectly.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Which... is pretty much the same as what I got, 66c. The H240x = 2x140 rads.
> 
> I also live in a hot country (Malaysia), ambient temps are around 37-40c here in the day time and high 20s at night. The 4670k is also hitting 1.35v @ 4.5ghz. I'm certain the waterblock on the 970 is mounted perfectly.


Yeah, i totally forgot about the room temps.
with this high temps it's really hard to watercool a system without many rads.
I live in Brazil, but my room temps are something between 25ºC/29ºC year average.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Which... is pretty much the same as what I got, 66c. The H240x = 2x140 rads.
> 
> I also live in a hot country (Malaysia), ambient temps are around 37-40c here in the day time and high 20s at night. The 4670k is also hitting 1.35v @ 4.5ghz. I'm certain the waterblock on the 970 is mounted perfectly.


damn...37 to 40...I would die if heat stroke lol


----------



## NIK1

Anyone ever mix the HydrX PM Coolant green with the HydrX PM2 Coolant blue.When I build my loop today I will drain and save the hydrx PM2 from the 240x and since I am going full waterblock for my ati 7970 and a MCRx20-QP Radiator I will need extra coolant. Should I mix these 2 coolants together or just use distilled water for the extra fluid I need.Also,do you think there will be any cooling gain if I switch out the 140 mm Helix fans for Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 2000 rpm IP67 PWM 140mm fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone ever mix the HydrX PM Coolant green with the HydrX PM2 Coolant blue.When I build my loop today I will drain and save the hydrx PM2 from the 240x and since I am going full waterblock for my ati 7970 and a MCRx20-QP Radiator I will need extra coolant. Should I mix these 2 coolants together or just use distilled water for the extra fluid I need.Also,do you think there will be any cooling gain if I switch out the 140 mm Helix fans for Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 2000 rpm IP67 PWM 140mm fans.


I believe Bryan has stated that the X series is using an entirely different fluid that is not available separately, rather than PM2. No idea what the answer is as far as mixing on these.

You may want to try both sets of fans and do some testing. The performance gains you get with the PPC2000 under normal conditions may not be as great as you are anticipating, and the noise gains from them once they hit ~1000rpm and higher may be more than you are expecting. For some reason people seem to sell the Helix fans short, they are much better performing and quieter than most give them credit for.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I believe Bryan has stated that the X series is using an entirely different fluid that is not available separately, rather than PM2. No idea what the answer is as far as mixing on these.
> 
> You may want to try both sets of fans and do some testing. The performance gains you get with the PPC2000 under normal conditions may not be as great as you are anticipating, and the noise gains from them once they hit ~1000rpm and higher may be more than you are expecting. For some reason people seem to sell the Helix fans short, they are much better performing and quieter than most give them credit for.


This is correct and I really wouldn't mix these two coolants. We should start selling the clear coolant that comes in these X kits though by the end of this month.


----------



## NIK1

So would it be ok to use distilled water with the HydrX PM2 Coolant coolant that's in the 240x now,since I am expanding with a 7970 full water block and a single 120mm extra rad.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> So would it be ok to use distilled water with the HydrX PM2 Coolant coolant that's in the 240x now,since I am expanding with a 7970 full water block and a single 120mm extra rad.


This isn't PM2 coolant that comes in these X kits. We haven't even given it a name as of yet. I would think that it will likely be called PM3 when we finally do start selling though. If you're just topping off the coolant then yes, you can just use distilled water to top it off.


----------



## cephelix

it's been a fun run guys! and you guys have been uber helpful. I've expanded my h220 to include my gpu but was less than impressed at the visual results. temp wise, it performed like a champ though i still could not get rid of the rattling for some reason.....for now i'm back on air....much simpler and less expensive...


----------



## NIK1

So with the Komodo full water block for my ati 7970 and a MCRx20-QP Radiator in this loop I will reuse the 240x fluid and refill the loop with distilled water when I build it today, everything is still in boxes.. Should I drain the whole works and refill with straight 240x fluid when it is available or is this blend with the distilled water ok.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> So with the Komodo full water block for my ati 7970 and a MCRx20-QP Radiator in this loop I will reuse the 240x fluid and refill the loop with distilled water when I build it today, everything is still in boxes.. Should I drain the whole works and refill with straight 240x fluid when it is available or is this blend with the distilled water ok.


If I were you, I would just replace all of the coolant. I wouldn't use that amount of distilled water in your loop. The issue is that the amount of distilled water you're going to use could cause algae to form because there won't be enough of our coolant to prohibit it. If this is just a temporary solution though then you should be fine. I wouldn't use it for more than a couple of weeks though.


----------



## NIK1

Is this stuff any good for the 240x.Ek Water Block EK-EKOOLANT EVO Clear Coolant .I can get this stuff in a couple days. http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105877.htm Or any other one you could suggest. I don't want to rip her apart later.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Is this stuff any good for the 240x.Ek Water Block EK-EKOOLANT EVO Clear Coolant .I can get this stuff in a couple days. http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105877.htm Or any other one you could suggest. I don't want to rip her apart later.


I honestly don't know. The only coolants I ever used, besides distilled water and a kill coil, were our own.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Yeah, i totally forgot about the room temps.
> with this high temps it's really hard to watercool a system without many rads.
> I live in Brazil, but my room temps are something between 25ºC/29ºC year average.


Yeah, which is why I'm quite happy with the H240x. Works well in these hot and humid conditions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> damn...37 to 40...I would die if heat stroke lol


Can't say I disagree.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Is this stuff any good for the 240x.Ek Water Block EK-EKOOLANT EVO Clear Coolant .I can get this stuff in a couple days. http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105877.htm Or any other one you could suggest. I don't want to rip her apart later.


FWIW, EK coolants are relabeled Mayhems coolants.


----------



## NIK1

I have one 16oz bottle of the HydrX PM Coolant green stuff,I can order another bottle or 2 from ncix in Toronto and it can be here by Monday.Anything wrong with running HydrX PM Coolant in the 240x.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Just setup my H240x. 10c drop in max load temps with my 2600k at 1.37v vs Phanteks PH-TCHD12X air cooler and that is with a very passive fan profile vs high speed on the air cooler. This cooler is a beast! Going to try to take my 2600k to 5GHz, lets see if it can handle it!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have one 16oz bottle of the HydrX PM Coolant green stuff,I can order another bottle or 2 from ncix in Toronto and it can be here by Monday.Anything wrong with running HydrX PM Coolant in the 240x.


Nothing at all. It's good stuff. I had it in a system that ran for just over two years without being replaced and when I finally took everything apart, all of the blocks and radiators were pristine.


----------



## NIK1

Ordered 2 more bottles from ncix.I will get everything hooked up one of these days.2 day shipping for the extra coolant then I am in business. Thanks everyone for all your input. I will post pics of my beast when she's all pretty.


----------



## Jimbags

Hey guys, Just a question. I have my H220 mounted at the front of my case. I have the res part on the rad at the bottom. Is this correct. I think I can hear bubles when I first start up lately. After a few minutes it quietens down a bit.


----------



## Mega Man

Derete


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Hey guys, Just a question. I have my H220 mounted at the front of my case. I have the res part on the rad at the bottom. Is this correct. I think I can hear bubles when I first start up lately. After a few minutes it quietens down a bit.


yeah the water running sound is air...turbulence from the water moving around it creates that sound I would take a flashlight and look at about 160 degree angle into the top of the res...my money is on it being there or very small bubbles in the impeller area...if it's bubbles in the impeller area they usually can be seen with a light when the pump is on


----------



## wes1099

I wonder if Swiftech provides tracking when sending something back from RMA. If they don't, UPS gives me tracking for all packages for going to my address anyway


----------



## Razzaa

If im just replacing the tubing on my 240X how much fluid does it take? 32oz? I dont have anything added to the loop. Im just replacing the stock tubing. I can reuse the clamps right? Thanks.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> If im just replacing the tubing on my 240X how much fluid does it take? 32oz? I dont have anything added to the loop. Im just replacing the stock tubing. I can reuse the clamps right? Thanks.


Yeah you can reuse the clamps. I have no idea how much fluid you need, but if you are using distilled water you should just buy a gallon and you will have plenty.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> If im just replacing the tubing on my 240X how much fluid does it take? 32oz? I dont have anything added to the loop. Im just replacing the stock tubing. I can reuse the clamps right? Thanks.


You can absolutely continue using the same clamps unless you damaged them.

If I recall correctly, the 240X used almost exactly one 16oz bottle of Hydrx PM 2, possibly a touch more. I have always used Hydrx PM 2 in the Swiftechs simply because it was designed by them specifically for their AiO line, but any quality coolant will do. I can say that the PM 2 works very well - I use it in a custom loop as well with yearly changes, and every part looks brand new internally.


----------



## VSG

250 mL was in my H220-X, and I imagine that the H240-X would have about 275-300 mL at most. 32 ounces is way more than needed, as is 16 ounces.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Finally made some progress with my machine and got the loop expanded. Overall not too bad, I just ran into a few issues I wasn't expecting. I was expecting the tubing to flex more (more like how it is after it's soaked in hot water) so it made some of the smaller bends harder. I had also wanted to add a fill port but with the short piece of tubing and the bend it just wasn't going work. I have to look into getting a 90 degree fitting and see if that helps.

I also should have made sure I had the right wrenches before starting. I couldn't find my smaller one and had to make due with what I could find. I ended up butchering the finish on the fitting, but at least no leaks.

Now I just need to make the psu cover, get all my wiring in order and put all of the plastics back onto the case.



I was running distilled water with I and H dead water and noticed this when I removed the stock tubing. Assuming this is plasticizer? It's a think film that can be scraped off. Do I need to worry about cleaning the block?


----------



## wes1099

Shipped my H220-X for RMA a week ago, and no news about it so far. Cant wait to get it back!


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Finally made some progress with my machine and got the loop expanded. Overall not too bad, I just ran into a few issues I wasn't expecting. I was expecting the tubing to flex more (more like how it is after it's soaked in hot water) so it made some of the smaller bends harder. I had also wanted to add a fill port but with the short piece of tubing and the bend it just wasn't going work. I have to look into getting a 90 degree fitting and see if that helps.
> 
> I also should have made sure I had the right wrenches before starting. I couldn't find my smaller one and had to make due with what I could find. I ended up butchering the finish on the fitting, but at least no leaks.
> 
> Now I just need to make the psu cover, get all my wiring in order and put all of the plastics back onto the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was running distilled water with I and H dead water and noticed this when I removed the stock tubing. Assuming this is plasticizer? It's a think film that can be scraped off. Do I need to worry about cleaning the block?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


That is nasty. I am not exactly sure why that happened, but it definitely has something to do with the coolant. Personally, I would clean the block, but I am not sure if that is necessary. I am not sure what you would clean it with either.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It's almost certainly plasticizer from the tubing, not anything to do with the coolant. There is a good chance that your blocks could also have some plasticizer buildup, especially the microchannels in a cpu block, but if you're not seeing any detrimental effects in the way of temps it's probably nothing to majorly worry about.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's almost certainly plasticizer from the tubing, not anything to do with the coolant. There is a good chance that your blocks could also have some plasticizer buildup, especially the microchannels in a cpu block, but if you're not seeing any detrimental effects in the way of temps it's probably nothing to majorly worry about.


Unless he has one of the earlier models of the H220-X the tubing should be rubber, which is plasticizer free.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's almost certainly plasticizer from the tubing, not anything to do with the coolant. There is a good chance that your blocks could also have some plasticizer buildup, especially the microchannels in a cpu block, but if you're not seeing any detrimental effects in the way of temps it's probably nothing to majorly worry about.


I'll have to keep an eye on it but I think I'm going to be fine. Both the cpu and gpu temps are right around where I was expecting them to be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Unless he has one of the earlier models of the H220-X the tubing should be rubber, which is plasticizer free.


Correct, mine was from when the H220-X was first released so I had the old style tubing.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I'll have to keep an eye on it but I think I'm going to be fine. Both the cpu and gpu temps are right around where I was expecting them to be.
> Correct, mine was from when the H220-X was first released so I had the old style tubing.


Yeah, its definitely plasticizer. I think you will be fine if the tubing you replaced it with is plasticizer free.


----------



## wes1099

Apparently my RMA shipment arrived at the swiftech warehouse yesterday. Hopefully it got there in once piece and gets shipped back sometime this week.


----------



## drop24

I'm having a bit of an issue mounting my H220-X to my Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard. The mounting screws seem to be hitting the PCB before the waterblock is fully lowered down. Are the thick parts of the screws supposed to be able to pass through the motherboard holes? They seem just a little be too wide.


----------



## FreeElectron

How long are the tubes on the Swiftech H240-X?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> I'm having a bit of an issue mounting my H220-X to my Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard. The mounting screws seem to be hitting the PCB before the waterblock is fully lowered down. Are the thick parts of the screws supposed to be able to pass through the motherboard holes? They seem just a little be too wide.


We're now seeing quite a few people having problems with the Gene motherboard. It appears that the mounting holes in the board are just slightly off spec and this is making it difficult to get the mounting posts to fit through them. They are supposed to fit through the holes on the board.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> How long are the tubes on the Swiftech H240-X?


The one I got which I am assuming is the new model (since I bought it last week) has very short but very thick tubing. Shorter than most CLC's even.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> The one I got which I am assuming is the new model (since I bought it last week) has very short but very thick tubing. Shorter than most CLC's even.


That is odd. All of the H220-X and H240-X I have seen have relatively long tubes.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> That is odd. All of the H220-X and H240-X I have seen have relatively long tubes.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Finally made some progress with my machine and got the loop expanded. Overall not too bad, I just ran into a few issues I wasn't expecting. I was expecting the tubing to flex more (more like how it is after it's soaked in hot water) so it made some of the smaller bends harder. I had also wanted to add a fill port but with the short piece of tubing and the bend it just wasn't going work. I have to look into getting a 90 degree fitting and see if that helps.
> 
> I also should have made sure I had the right wrenches before starting. I couldn't find my smaller one and had to make due with what I could find. I ended up butchering the finish on the fitting, but at least no leaks.
> 
> Now I just need to make the psu cover, get all my wiring in order and put all of the plastics back onto the case.
> 
> I was running distilled water with I and H dead water and noticed this when I removed the stock tubing. Assuming this is plasticizer? It's a think film that can be scraped off. Do I need to worry about cleaning the block?


yes it is, it is normal and nothing to worry about

i run cheap HD tubing and even after 2 years i had no issues with buildup.

and the plastisizer is bad from it !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's almost certainly plasticizer from the tubing, not anything to do with the coolant. There is a good chance that your blocks could also have some plasticizer buildup, especially the microchannels in a cpu block, but if you're not seeing any detrimental effects in the way of temps it's probably nothing to majorly worry about.


it could but it is unlikely


----------



## v1ral

How does this proposed loop sound?
H220x + mcr320xp + alphacool nexxos gpx*gtx 970 g1 gaming* possibly Sli down the road.
Will the pump be strong enough?
I'll be adding helix PWM fans to the mcr320xp, are these fans any good?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> How does this proposed loop sound?
> H220x + mcr320xp + alphacool nexxos gpx*gtx 970 g1 gaming* possibly Sli down the road.
> Will the pump be strong enough?
> I'll be adding helix PWM fans to the mcr320xp, are these fans any good?


That should work nicely.

The Helix fans are much better than most give them credit for. Everyone jumps on the "I need to upgrade the fans" bandwagon when they buy coolers, and in this case most people are spending a lot of money to downgrade or make a lateral move. The Helix are quiet with good flow and static pressure.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> How does this proposed loop sound?
> H220x + mcr320xp + alphacool nexxos gpx*gtx 970 g1 gaming* possibly Sli down the road.
> Will the pump be strong enough?
> I'll be adding helix PWM fans to the mcr320xp, are these fans any good?


Probably not to your satisfaction, the NexXxos GPX blocks are very restrictive to liquid flow from what Simon found out on XtremeRigs.net and two of them would definitely hurt your flow rate, possibly to the point of affecting performance directly. I'd say try it out with a single block as you intended and then see how it works out for you.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Probably not to your satisfaction, the NexXxos GPX blocks are very restrictive to liquid flow from what Simon found out on XtremeRigs.net and two of them would definitely hurt your flow rate, possibly to the point of affecting performance directly. I'd say try it out with a single block as you intended and then see how it works out for you.


Haven't read reviews of that block yet I'm surprised it is that restrictive.
Will swiftech put out a block for the GTX 970 G1 Gaming??
I was hoping to keep things in line with brands, if swiftech made block for those cards it would make things much easier. I've used other brands blocks, but for radiators I've only used swiftech ones*mcr220/mcr320*.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Haven't read reviews of that block yet I'm surprised it is that restrictive.
> Will swiftech put out a block for the GTX 970 G1 Gaming??
> I was hoping to keep things in line with brands, if swiftech made block for those cards it would make things much easier. I've used other brands blocks, but for radiators I've only used swiftech ones*mcr220/mcr320*.


That Alphacool unit is a universal block fitted into a heatsink plate. Here's how the block itself fares (as part of other GPU specific solutions):





Same block is used on their 970 G1 cooling solution also, and so the restriction will be the same. I don't want to speak for Swiftech but they don't really cater to non-reference GPU PCBs. I know EK has a block for it, and perhaps also Bitspower. No idea how they perform thermally compared to the Alphacool one but these tend to be much lower in restriction in general.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That Alphacool unit is a universal block fitted into a heatsink plate. Here's how the block itself fares (as part of other GPU specific solutions):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same block is used on their 970 G1 cooling solution also, and so the restriction will be the same. I don't want to speak for Swiftech but they don't really cater to non-reference GPU PCBs. I know EK has a block for it, and perhaps also Bitspower. No idea how they perform thermally compared to the Alphacool one but these tend to be much lower in restriction in general.


Those are some pretty ugly numbers. I wasn't aware that the Alphacool was that restrictive.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Haven't read reviews of that block yet I'm surprised it is that restrictive.
> Will swiftech put out a block for the GTX 970 G1 Gaming??
> I was hoping to keep things in line with brands, if swiftech made block for those cards it would make things much easier. I've used other brands blocks, but for radiators I've only used swiftech ones*mcr220/mcr320*.


No, we have no intention at this time of producing a water block for that particular card. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## dansi

How about a G140/120X universal GPU unit?

I think GPU water cooling may be the next big thing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> How about a G140/120X universal GPU unit?
> 
> I think GPU water cooling may be the next big thing.


No, we don't have anything like that in the works either.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Haven't read reviews of that block yet I'm surprised it is that restrictive.
> Will swiftech put out a block for the GTX 970 G1 Gaming??
> I was hoping to keep things in line with brands, if swiftech made block for those cards it would make things much easier. I've used other brands blocks, but for radiators I've only used swiftech ones*mcr220/mcr320*.


I had the same idea of trying to keep the same brand but hadn't seen any news on full blocks from Swiftech. I ended up getting the EK block for my G1 and so far I'm really happy with the performance.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I had the same idea of trying to keep the same brand but hadn't seen any news on full blocks from Swiftech. I ended up getting the EK block for my G1 and so far I'm really happy with the performance.


how are temps....
was it worth it??
mind you I am not new to water cooling, I'm just new to all this new power efficient technology and lower tdp stuff. I've water cooled SLI 470s before never Maxwell stuff.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> how are temps....
> was it worth it??
> mind you I am not new to water cooling, I'm just new to all this new power efficient technology and lower tdp stuff. I've water cooled SLI 470s before never Maxwell stuff.


For me it was worth it. The G1 isn't that loud to begin with, but with the block installed my system is much quieter. I had a AIO installed on my 670 and when I installed the 970, the very first thing I noticed was the fans running.

I'm seeing temps while playing BF4 or Far Cry 4 maxing out around 45 degrees and I have been able to raise the core clocks higher than I was on air. I still need to keep testing and also look into making a custom bios to really see what this card can do.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> For me it was worth it. The G1 isn't that loud to begin with, but with the block installed my system is much quieter. I had a AIO installed on my 670 and when I installed the 970, the very first thing I noticed was the fans running.
> 
> I'm seeing temps while playing BF4 or Far Cry 4 maxing out around 45 degrees and I have been able to raise the core clocks higher than I was on air. I still need to keep testing and also look into making a custom bios to really see what this card can do.


I will be looking forward to the results of your further testing. I am planning on adding my 970 g1 to my h220-x loop,along with another 240mm radiator. If you make a custom bios I would definitely like to know what the settings are too.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Those are some pretty ugly numbers. I wasn't aware that the Alphacool was that restrictive.


Yeah most full cover blocks are nowhere near that, and most universal GPU blocks are also not as restrictive either. This one is a different beast altogether.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> For me it was worth it. The G1 isn't that loud to begin with, but with the block installed my system is much quieter. I had a AIO installed on my 670 and when I installed the 970, the very first thing I noticed was the fans running.
> 
> I'm seeing temps while playing BF4 or Far Cry 4 maxing out around 45 degrees and I have been able to raise the core clocks higher than I was on air. I still need to keep testing and also look into making a custom bios to really see what this card can do.


that is definitely not short. I have a 4 inch run of tubing to the top port on the cpu block, and that is short.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> that is definitely not short. I have a 4 inch run of tubing to the top port on the cpu block, and that is short.


It's not short, but it's shorter than some other AIOs I have used. Though it may have seemed shorter than it was due to the fact that it's using real 3/8OD tubing rather than the flimsy crap Corsair/Cooler Master/Etc. use.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Finally made some progress with my machine and got the loop expanded. Overall not too bad, I just ran into a few issues I wasn't expecting. I was expecting the tubing to flex more (more like how it is after it's soaked in hot water) so it made some of the smaller bends harder. I had also wanted to add a fill port but with the short piece of tubing and the bend it just wasn't going work. I have to look into getting a 90 degree fitting and see if that helps.
> 
> I also should have made sure I had the right wrenches before starting. I couldn't find my smaller one and had to make due with what I could find. I ended up butchering the finish on the fitting, but at least no leaks.
> 
> Now I just need to make the psu cover, get all my wiring in order and put all of the plastics back onto the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I was running distilled water with I and H dead water and noticed this when I removed the stock tubing. Assuming this is plasticizer? It's a think film that can be scraped off. Do I need to worry about cleaning the block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Unless he has one of the earlier models of the H220-X the tubing should be rubber, which is plasticizer free.


Hi, I was reading the tubes and the plasticizer, I have to worry? buy one of the first h220x that brings the bad tube, I have to clean? is running from July 2014, the new tube where you can purchase or RMA to send me the new tube?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi, I was reading the tubes and the plasticizer, I have to worry? buy one of the first h220x that brings the bad tube, I have to clean? is running from July 2014, the new tube where you can purchase or RMA to send me the new tube?


I am not sure, you should send *BramSLI1* a private message, he is the Swiftech representative here on OCN.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I am not sure, you should send *BramSLI1* a private message, he is the Swiftech representative here on OCN.


ok thanks.


----------



## NIK1

On the H240x,what hose on the pump is the inlet line. My guess is the one on the right on the pump. I am building the loop today and want to make shure I don't hook up the extre rad and Komodo 7970 water block on the inlet line. I am also changing the black stock swiftech tubing to clear Primo Flex LRT tubing. When I drained the new 240x there was a little over 8 oz. of fluid in it.Any help appreciated...


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi, I was reading the tubes and the plasticizer, I have to worry? buy one of the first h220x that brings the bad tube, I have to clean? is running from July 2014, the new tube where you can purchase or RMA to send me the new tube?


There have been other people who have expanded their loops and I don't remember seeing anyone having issues. I was also running distilled water if that makes a difference.

If I remember correctly, someone had asked about purchasing the new tubing and they weren't selling it yet. I agree that contacting bramsli1 would be your best bet.


----------



## drop24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're now seeing quite a few people having problems with the Gene motherboard. It appears that the mounting holes in the board are just slightly off spec and this is making it difficult to get the mounting posts to fit through them. They are supposed to fit through the holes on the board.


Just to clarify you mean the thicker non-threaded portion of the thumb screws are supposed to fit through the motherboard holes? It seems like they aren't even close to being thin enough.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're now seeing quite a few people having problems with the Gene motherboard. It appears that the mounting holes in the board are just slightly off spec and this is making it difficult to get the mounting posts to fit through them. They are supposed to fit through the holes on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify you mean the thicker non-threaded portion of the thumb screws are supposed to fit through the motherboard holes? It seems like they aren't even close to being thin enough.
Click to expand...

Is it possible for you to take a picture of the installation that you are doing, I cant seem to picture it out.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> On the H240x,what hose on the pump is the inlet line. My guess is the one on the right on the pump. I am building the loop today and want to make shure I don't hook up the extre rad and Komodo 7970 water block on the inlet line. I am also changing the black stock swiftech tubing to clear Primo Flex LRT tubing. When I drained the new 240x there was a little over 8 oz. of fluid in it.Any help appreciated...


inlet line goes into the res...it I'd then sucked through the radiator and out the other hose...reservoir should always feed the pump to reduce risk of dry pump death in case of air


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info. The ATX 24 pin connector to jump with a paper clip, my connector all the wires are all black, I found a pic on which pins to jump. Would this be safe to do, are all 24 pin connections the same. I installed the water block onto the cpu,is it safe to turn on the pc for a few sec at a time to bleed and fill the loop. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. My pwr supply is a Corsair Ax 1200i.
.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info. The ATX 24 pin connector to jump with a paper clip, my connector all the wires are all black, I found a pic on which pins to jump. Would this be safe to do, are all 24 pin connections the same. I installed the water block onto the cpu,is it safe to turn on the pc for a few sec at a time to bleed and fill the loop. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. My pwr supply is a Corsair Ax 1200i.
> .


all 24 pins are the same afaik... it's a standard that's been around awhile....I would use the paperclip where it's indicated and be sure it doesn't touch anything metal...you would then make sure only your pump is attached on the far ends meaning the leads can be attached to the psu but on the other ends you want only the pump attached..you would then cycle the pump with the power switch on the psu and fill but...BE SURE THE PUMP DOESNT RUN DRY...also put down paper towels at every connection point and let it run for an hour at least after you fill and bleed it...to ensure no leaks and it helps make sure all the air is bled and if not you can top it off


----------



## NIK1

Thanks, for helping me out..So far I have only plunged in the sata connection from the pump.Is this the only wire I plug in to start the pump for bleed and fill. When I am ready to start the process I have a paper clip ready for the jump on the atx connector. Hope I have this right.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> Just to clarify you mean the thicker non-threaded portion of the thumb screws are supposed to fit through the motherboard holes? It seems like they aren't even close to being thin enough.


No, those are plastic washers that act as a kind of cushion between the back plate and the motherboard. Those don't go through those holes, only the threaded posts are meant to go through.


----------



## kevindd992002

After one week of being back from the grave, my pump went dead again.

@Bryan, I emailed you about this.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks, for helping me out..So far I have only plunged in the sata connection from the pump.Is this the only wire I plug in to start the pump for bleed and fill. When I am ready to start the process I have a paper clip ready for the jump on the atx connector. Hope I have this right.


yeah the newer units have the led plug integrated so the led and the pump will be the only thing running....the reason you do this is two fold 1.) To check for leaks and 2.) To fill and bleed easier....if you were to power everything and you have a leak it can short out things and be very bad...this way if you have a leak you can fix it...dry out 100 percent whatever got water on it and as long as it's dry when you turn it on...no issues


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info. The ATX 24 pin connector to jump with a paper clip, my connector all the wires are all black, I found a pic on which pins to jump. Would this be safe to do, are all 24 pin connections the same. I installed the water block onto the cpu,is it safe to turn on the pc for a few sec at a time to bleed and fill the loop. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. My pwr supply is a Corsair Ax 1200i.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> all 24 pins are the same afaik... it's a standard that's been around awhile....I would use the paperclip where it's indicated and be sure it doesn't touch anything metal...you would then make sure only your pump is attached on the far ends meaning the leads can be attached to the psu but on the other ends you want only the pump attached..you would then cycle the pump with the power switch on the psu and fill but...BE SURE THE PUMP DOESNT RUN DRY...also put down paper towels at every connection point and let it run for an hour at least after you fill and bleed it...to ensure no leaks and it helps make sure all the air is bled and if not you can top it off
Click to expand...

this is correct. all psus 24pin on the mobo end are the exact same .

i have it memorized, which way to hold the connector and 4th pin in and either around it

( you can jump the 4th to 5th or 4th to 3rd )... 4th ( pson ) to any ground works

another way to to google 24pin

and look for gound and pson,

the only way you could mess this up is if you put something into 5vsb however most good psus wont even blink and heave great protection so even if you do no issues


----------



## kevindd992002

What could be the cause of the H220-X malfunctioning every now and then? I'm sure it is connected properly to the 12V SATA line because the white acrylic LED is lit up. Just today, before going to work, my pump was dead again.

I went back home, powered on the system and the pump was still dead. I turned off the system and turned it back on and it is alive again. All instances have the white LED in the acrylic display lit which is indicative that there the pump-LED cable combo is connected and getting proper voltage from the 12V SATA rail. I'm not really sure what's going on here but like I said before there should be no power spike of any sort happening because my computer's PSU is directly connected to an APC BR-1500GI UPS with tight voltage regulation not to mention that my PSU is a Seasonic 760 Platinum with superb voltage regulation as well. The only devices connected to the same 12V SATA cable are: 1 SSD, 1 HDD, and the H220-X pump-LED itself.


----------



## EarlZ

Just a though if this happens again before your unit is replaced try to wiggle the connector from the pump just to rule out any lose connections.


----------



## drop24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, those are plastic washers that act as a kind of cushion between the back plate and the motherboard. Those don't go through those holes, only the threaded posts are meant to go through.


Oh, I think you are talking about the back plate. I'm talking about the thumbscrews on the actual block. They seem to be bottoming out before the block is fully tightened down due to the thicker portion hitting the surface of the motherboard.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Just a though if this happens again before your unit is replaced try to wiggle the connector from the pump just to rule out any lose connections.


Already did that multiple times to no avail. It's really not in the connectors as it's a 100% snug. And like I said, if it was a loose connection the white acrylic LED won't light up (they pump power and the LED power are tied to each other).


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys are there any reviews with the H240-X vs the new corsair h110 gt?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys are there any reviews with the H240-X vs the new corsair h110 gt?


H240-X has much higher quality parts since it uses the same parts you would find in a custom loop. You can't expand the h110 get and have it cool the gpu a day add more radiators let keep you can the H240-X. The corsair radiators are usually aluminium which does not perform as well as copper radiators you find in the H240-X. Corsair fans aren't that great either.


----------



## wes1099

I gotta find a way to dim the led in the cpu block. I might try sanding the color plate to make it less transparent, or maybe I will add a resistor to the cable.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I gotta find a way to dim the led in the cpu block. I might try sanding the color plate to make it less transparent, or maybe I will add a resistor to the cable.


Aren't you connecting the CPU block to one of your motherboard's fan headers? Just lower the voltage on the header then.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drop24*
> 
> Oh, I think you are talking about the back plate. I'm talking about the thumbscrews on the actual block. They seem to be bottoming out before the block is fully tightened down due to the thicker portion hitting the surface of the motherboard.


Can you post a picture of what you're asking about? This will clarify things for me so that I can assist you.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Aren't you connecting the CPU block to one of your motherboard's fan headers? Just lower the voltage on the header then.


MSI control center does not detect that something is plugged in to the header because nothing is connected to the pin that reports RPM to the OS so I can not adjust the voltage. I already tried that the first daily I got me the cooler but I had to send it in for repairs before I had a chance to find a solution.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> all 24 pins are the same afaik... it's a standard that's been around awhile....I would use the paperclip where it's indicated and be sure it doesn't touch anything metal...you would then make sure only your pump is attached on the far ends meaning the leads can be attached to the psu but on the other ends you want only the pump attached..you would then cycle the pump with the power switch on the psu and fill but...BE SURE THE PUMP DOESNT RUN DRY...also put down paper towels at every connection point and let it run for an hour at least after you fill and bleed it...to ensure no leaks and it helps make sure all the air is bled and if not you can top it off


I did this outside my case with a PSU from an old machine from 2007 and everything worked perfectly until I dropped a screw into the PSU and scared the living crap out of myself with the loud pop and bright light from the screw touching a very large capacitor.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> There have been other people who have expanded their loops and I don't remember seeing anyone having issues. I was also running distilled water if that makes a difference.
> 
> If I remember correctly, someone had asked about purchasing the new tubing and they weren't selling it yet. I agree that contacting bramsli1 would be your best bet.


ok thanks, and talk to bramsli1, as I want to change the tube by one transparent, tube recommend? and if I need something more than the tube to make the change


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> ok thanks, and talk to bramsli1, as I want to change the tube by one transparent, tube recommend? and if I need something more than the tube to make the change


I used primochill advanced lrt tubing and the size of the stock tubing is 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD. What else you will need depends on what you are looking to accomplish. If you are just looking to change the tubing for a different look, you can use the stock barbs instead of getting new fittings. I'm pretty sure the hose clamps can also be reused, just verify that first.

Otherwise if you wanted a different look with the fittings you could also look into compression fittings. There is also an adapter that Swiftech sells to change out the barb connection on the pump if you were upgrading to compression fittings.

Hope that helps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I used primochill advanced lrt tubing and the size of the stock tubing is 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD. What else you will need depends on what you are looking to accomplish. If you are just looking to change the tubing for a different look, you can use the stock barbs instead of getting new fittings. I'm pretty sure the hose clamps can also be reused, just verify that first.
> 
> Otherwise if you wanted a different look with the fittings you could also look into compression fittings. There is also an adapter that Swiftech sells to change out the barb connection on the pump if you were upgrading to compression fittings.
> 
> Hope that helps.


He already PM'd me about this and I answered it for him. Those clamps are reusable as well. Thanks for your assistance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I did this outside my case with a PSU from an old machine from 2007 and everything worked perfectly until I dropped a screw into the PSU and scared the living crap out of myself with the loud pop and bright light from the screw touching a very large capacitor.


oh wow that sucks did it kill or maim the psu?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> oh wow that sucks did it kill or maim the psu?


It just killed the PSU, but it was an old PSU and I didn't have much of a use for it anyway. I did end up getting the screw back though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> MSI control center does not detect that something is plugged in to the header because nothing is connected to the pin that reports RPM to the OS so I can not adjust the voltage.
> It just killed the PSU, but it was an old PSU and I didn't have much of a use for it anyway. I did end up getting the screw back though.


at least it wasn't your main psu and you weren't injured..although newer psu wouldn't have been able to drop a scree in probably since most our back our bottom fanned


----------



## Danbeme32

Well. I finally decided to get my feet wet... My H220-x came in today... I got tired at seeing the big block in my rig..I'll post pics up when I install it tomorrow seen I have to work tonight.


----------



## NIK1

I got my H240x all hooked up the other day and all is fine,27-29 cel at idle and 57-60 cel tops when running prime95.Just wondering how most are running the fans on the 240x.It comes from swiftech set as intake but I put mine to exhaust. My cosmos 2 case has 2 front fans as intake,2 side hard drive cooling fans as intake, and 2 side door added fans as intake,and at the back of the case I have a swiftech 120mm rad in push pull as exhaust.I also have ordered this week a Komodo R9LE water block for my Sapphire TRI-X Radeon R9 290 graphics card which should keep her cool and quiet when gaming compared to the loud 3 high pitch fans that are on it.Just curious on how others have put their setup.


----------



## Gavush

I'm running my h240x fans as exhaust and my FX-8350 gets as hot as 55c max during folding or boinc. That's with two 7970 in the loop w/ an additional 240rad (w/ fans set to intake, sucking thru the rad vs pushing thru the rad)

setup like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NIK1

Thanks for the info. Right now I have the 240 loop from the 240 to the cpu.from the cpu to a Swiftech MCR120-QP-RES Quiet Power Single 120MM Water Cooling Rad,then back to the 240.When my Komodo water block comes I was going to run it between the extra rad and the 240.I think I will run it like yours, after the cpu to the Komodo water block then to the extra rad,and back to the 240.Does it make a difference in cooling on which order the loop is run.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I'm running my h240x fans as exhaust and my FX-8350 gets as hot as 55c max during folding or boinc. That's with two 7970 in the loop w/ an additional 240rad (w/ fans set to intake, sucking thru the rad vs pushing thru the rad)
> 
> setup like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you stick LED strips behind your mobo?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I used primochill advanced lrt tubing and the size of the stock tubing is 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD. What else you will need depends on what you are looking to accomplish. If you are just looking to change the tubing for a different look, you can use the stock barbs instead of getting new fittings. I'm pretty sure the hose clamps can also be reused, just verify that first.
> 
> Otherwise if you wanted a different look with the fittings you could also look into compression fittings. There is also an adapter that Swiftech sells to change out the barb connection on the pump if you were upgrading to compression fittings.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I used primochill advanced lrt tubing and the size of the stock tubing is 3/8"ID x 5/8" OD. What else you will need depends on what you are looking to accomplish. If you are just looking to change the tubing for a different look, you can use the stock barbs instead of getting new fittings. I'm pretty sure the hose clamps can also be reused, just verify that first.
> 
> Otherwise if you wanted a different look with the fittings you could also look into compression fittings. There is also an adapter that Swiftech sells to change out the barb connection on the pump if you were upgrading to compression fittings.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> He already PM'd me about this and I answered it for him. Those clamps are reusable as well. Thanks for your assistance.


thank you both for the help,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/primoflex-b-advanced-lrt-10ft-b-tubing-3-8in-id-x-5-8in-od-crystal-clear.html

and

http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-ice-non-conductive-liquid-cooling-fluid-32-oz-steel-blue.html

only those two things I need to change the tube and the liquid?

thanks


----------



## InsideJob

Anyone have an idea when I'll be able to buy one of these again in Canada?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Anyone have an idea when I'll be able to buy one of these again in Canada?


I had this same inquiry myself a while ago so I reached out to Bryan to see if he had any info on when NCIX might restock these and this was his reply on March 11th:

"They should have these kits back in stock in the next 2 to 3 weeks. The reason for the delay is that our factory just came back from a three-week vacation and therefore production is a bit backed up. I hope this answers your question."


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I had this same inquiry myself a while ago so I reached out to Bryan to see if he had any info on when NCIX might restock these and this was his reply on March 11th:
> 
> "They should have these kits back in stock in the next 2 to 3 weeks. The reason for the delay is that our factory just came back from a three-week vacation and therefore production is a bit backed up. I hope this answers your question."


Nice, thanks for the quick reply.


----------



## wes1099

I hope the H220-X fits in the front of the mini itx bitfenix prodigy.


----------



## crazyxelite

Will be easy to fit the h220x fit on 1551 socket? Im planing to upgrade


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Will be easy to fit the h220x fit on 1551 socket? Im planing to upgrade


no such thing as 1551 socket. If you mean 1150, then yes.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Right now I have the 240 loop from the 240 to the cpu.from the cpu to a Swiftech MCR120-QP-RES Quiet Power Single 120MM Water Cooling Rad,then back to the 240.When my Komodo water block comes I was going to run it between the extra rad and the 240.I think I will run it like yours, after the cpu to the Komodo water block then to the extra rad,and back to the 240.Does it make a difference in cooling on which order the loop is run.


The order of the components in your loop makes no difference. Just go with the shortest distance between components for the cleanest looking configuration.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Did you stick LED strips behind your mobo?


Yeah I've got a roll of the cool white led tape from Amazon. I made three strips wired in series hooked up to molex for power.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> Yeah I've got a roll of the cool white led tape from Amazon. I made three strips wired in series hooked up to molex for power.


Hot damn, it actually looks really good.


----------



## v1ral

I think I may have asked this question before, but how many of those G1/4 adapters will I need to completely convert an H220X to a g1/4 set up?
It's almost that time to convert back to watercooling and what better way than to use one of these puppies...


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I think I may have asked this question before, but how many of those G1/4 adapters will I need to completely convert an H220X to a g1/4 set up?
> It's almost that time to convert back to watercooling and what better way than to use one of these puppies...


You don't need any adapters unless you want to change the fittings on the pump which you should only have to do if you want to use a different tubing size. If you are using 3/8ID 5/8OD tubing, you will be fine using the stock barbs on the pump along with the metal hose clamps it comes with. The pump comes with barbs on it for 3/8id 5/8od tubing, and you need *this* adapter to change the pump to G1/4. The waterblock comes with removable barbs I believe, so you don't need any adapters for that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I think I may have asked this question before, but how many of those G1/4 adapters will I need to completely convert an H220X to a g1/4 set up?
> It's almost that time to convert back to watercooling and what better way than to use one of these puppies...


( just one)


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ( just one)


just one for the pump?

I think it's funny how 3/8 tubing has become more of a standard nowadays, I remember using 1/2-3/4 tubing a few years back.
I ask this question Cause I plan on trying out rigid tubing down the line.
thanks for the info!!


----------



## d0mmie

So has anyone actually managed to get all the air out of the H220-X/240-X (for a custom loop)? As you can see in the picture, I've got quite a few big ones swirling around in the top. Perhaps it's because of the orientation of the radiator it seems to extreme. It's not like it's a huge deal since I really don't hear any splashing before the pump reaches above 70% speed, however what can happen is that one of those bubbles gets sucked down into the system and gets stuck. When that happens the temp will rise about 10 degress Celsius for both CPU and GPU, so it's not an ideal situation.

Yes I've been rocking the case from side to side, tilting front to back and so on for nearly 2 hours. Bubbles don't go away. And the bleed screw is no go, the original one already broke. Had to install one in metal with an o-ring to prevent it leaking.


----------



## LOKI23NY

I had to add water to get the last bit of air out. Turn it off and tilt the unit enough to get the air bubble right at the fill port and then add water until it is topped off. Turn it back on, then back off and repeat. I had to do this a few times before all the air was removed.

The trick for me was getting the tilt right. It would look totally full but a very slight tilt would allow me to add just a little more water.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I had to add water to get the last bit of air out. Turn it off and tilt the unit enough to get the air bubble right at the fill port and then add water until it is topped off. Turn it back on, then back off and repeat. I had to do this a few times before all the air was removed.
> 
> The trick for me was getting the tilt right. It would look totally full but a very slight tilt would allow me to add just a little more water.


Thank you for that excellent tip. Even though it means I'll probably have to do this outside the case, since I have 3 units attached to the H240-X.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> So has anyone actually managed to get all the air out of the H220-X/240-X (for a custom loop)? As you can see in the picture, I've got quite a few big ones swirling around in the top. Perhaps it's because of the orientation of the radiator it seems to extreme. It's not like it's a huge deal since I really don't hear any splashing before the pump reaches above 70% speed, however what can happen is that one of those bubbles gets sucked down into the system and gets stuck. When that happens the temp will rise about 10 degress Celsius for both CPU and GPU, so it's not an ideal situation.
> 
> Yes I've been rocking the case from side to side, tilting front to back and so on for nearly 2 hours. Bubbles don't go away. And the bleed screw is no go, the original one already broke. Had to install one in metal with an o-ring to prevent it leaking.


I have the same orientation with my h140x. I was able to remove all the air bubbles by laying it the case down flat on its back. Refilled the reservoir using the bleed screw as the point of entrance. Once its full, I have to put the case in its standing position then just repeat the cycle until all the bubbles are gone. Hope that helps.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

I loved my swiftech h220x until i tried to expand it today. I bought the port adaptor and two blocks for my 980's along with a alphacool t60 rad. Went to take the barb fittings off the block and the left one came out no problem but when the right barb came out it took off a piece of the side wall along with it and now the block is useless. I kind of shocked that it just fell apart like that. I didnt even touch the area that snapped off and i barely used any force at all. Pretty pissed off about it since now im **** out of luck until i find a new block. I liked the looks of the swiftech block too but i dont know if im going to buy another one after it breaking so easily and i doubt swiftech is going to replace the one that broke.

Secondly the adaptor was a pain in the ass to tighten down. I dont understand how they expect you to get a screw driver in there with the rad in the way and expect you not to strip the hell out of it. I ended up having to take the pump and res off the block in order for it to get a tight seal. Even the instructions pretty much tell you good luck. They would be better off just telling you to take the pump out instead of having your fiddle with it and hope you get a tight seal.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaCantStopMe*
> 
> I loved my swiftech h220x until i tried to expand it today. I bought the port adaptor and two blocks for my 980's along with a alphacool t60 rad. Went to take the barb fittings off the block and the left one came out no problem but when the right barb came out it took off a piece of the side wall along with it and now the block is useless. I kind of shocked that it just fell apart like that. I didnt even touch the area that snapped off and i barely used any force at all. Pretty pissed off about it since now im **** out of luck until i find a new block. I liked the looks of the swiftech block too but i dont know if im going to buy another one after it breaking so easily and i doubt swiftech is going to replace the one that broke.
> 
> Secondly the adaptor was a pain in the ass to tighten down. I dont understand how they expect you to get a screw driver in there with the rad in the way and expect you not to strip the hell out of it. I ended up having to take the pump and res off the block in order for it to get a tight seal. Even the instructions pretty much tell you good luck. They would be better off just telling you to take the pump out instead of having your fiddle with it and hope you get a tight seal.


Swiftech should replace the block for you. Contact Swiftech customer support &/or @BramSLI1 and explain just as you did here.


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> no such thing as 1551 socket. If you mean 1150, then yes.


yes there is. skylake cpus


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> no such thing as 1551 socket. If you mean 1150, then yes.
> 
> 
> 
> is there is. skylake cpus
Click to expand...

Sure you don't mean socket 1151?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> yes there is. skylake cpus


True, but those do not exist yet...


----------



## jprovido

just finished installing my H220


----------



## zila

@jprovido: I like it, looks nice and neat.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> So has anyone actually managed to get all the air out of the H220-X/240-X (for a custom loop)? As you can see in the picture, I've got quite a few big ones swirling around in the top. Perhaps it's because of the orientation of the radiator it seems to extreme. It's not like it's a huge deal since I really don't hear any splashing before the pump reaches above 70% speed, however what can happen is that one of those bubbles gets sucked down into the system and gets stuck. When that happens the temp will rise about 10 degress Celsius for both CPU and GPU, so it's not an ideal situation.
> 
> Yes I've been rocking the case from side to side, tilting front to back and so on for nearly 2 hours. Bubbles don't go away. And the bleed screw is no go, the original one already broke. Had to install one in metal with an o-ring to prevent it leaking.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have an expanded loop and it's a pretty big pain to bleed, I'm not sure how I would do it without the bleed screw. I lay mine on it's side and loosen the screw to let the air out of the reservoir and allow the coolant in my little fill tube to displace the air. It took me a couple of dozen sequences to get all the air out. It really doesn't like to come out via the "fill tube" I think too much surface tension or whatever to allow the bubbles to rise out of the top of the tube. I had to rely on letting the air out of the bleed screw.


----------



## svictorcc

Guys, i was thinking about this expansion for my H140-X (the 120 rads are only 27mm tick, magicool g2 models):

H140x->1x120mm rad->1x120mm rad->1x120mm rad->4790k apogee XL cpu wb->ekwb gtx 970->back to the h140x.

The h140x already have 2x90º angled fittings, and, considering them, the whole wc system would have 12 fittings, 7x90º angled, 1x45º angled and 4xnormal fittings.

Considering this setup, do you guys think that the mcp30 pump would take care of it? Even if this config would give me low gpm (below 1gpm), it's a good config or to much overkill (i will overclock the whole system)?

Answers for possible questions:
1-no i can't use ticker rads;
2 - Yes, maybe i can bend the tubes to avoid that much angled fittings, but just 2 i think.
3 - no it can't be a 1x240 or 1x360 rad, it has to be 120mm rads.


----------



## Mega Man

this would be for you !

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this would be for you !
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/


"Elbows and fittings do cause some restriction, but it's very much fractions of a degree and impacts flow rate much more than it does temperature...Sure some extra fittings will add restriction, but it's very minor."

Thanks a lot, i got my answer! =)
No problem at all, now i'm only looking at the mcp30 pump capacity. Looks like it is just the mcp50x but with top 3000rpm instead of 4500rpm. Strong enought i think.


----------



## wes1099

I can't wait to get my h220x back. Soon after I get my mITX motherboard and case I am going to buy a GPU waterblock.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I can't wait to get my h220x back. Soon after I get my mITX motherboard and case I am going to buy a GPU waterblock.


I'm trying to get yours shipped out today. I'm sorry this has taken so long to get back to you.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm trying to get yours shipped out today. I'm sorry this has taken so long to get back to you.


It's fine. I am just happy that you fixed it


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm trying to get yours shipped out today. I'm sorry this has taken so long to get back to you.


one more question. Are you filling it before you send it out? I need to know if I should go buy more distilled water.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> one more question. Are you filling it before you send it out? I need to know if I should go buy more distilled water.


Yes, I flushed and refilled it for you.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Does anyone know if the Swiftech H240x can be mounted in reverse vertical orientation to what is shown on the diagram Swiftech provides?

For reference I mean this


The far left image shows that it's OK to mount it vertically with the pump down, but the Enthoo Pro does not anywhere to mount that in the rear. So I would need to mount it in the front in reverse orientation (since you can't screw it down with the pump facing the screw holes..

I need the space up top to mount a 360 rad for when I expand the H240x to include a Titan-X.

I assume it's OK but just wanted to be sure,

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Swiftech H240x can be mounted in reverse vertical orientation to what is shown on the diagram Swiftech provides?
> 
> For reference I mean this
> 
> 
> The far left image shows that it's OK to mount it vertically with the pump down, but the Enthoo Pro does not anywhere to mount that in the rear. So I would need to mount it in the front in reverse orientation (since you can't screw it down with the pump facing the screw holes..
> 
> I need the space up top to mount a 360 rad for when I expand the H240x to include a Titan-X.
> 
> I assume it's OK but just wanted to be sure,
> 
> Thanks


Yes, that should be fine.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, I flushed and refilled it for you.


Awesome!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, that should be fine.


Great thanks.


----------



## zoom314

I've been in 'ketchup' mode as it were, reading all 1500+ pages, since I'm not around here much and I bought a Cooler Master Glacer 240L back on Oct 31st 2014, I just installed the cooler in the Azza 9000B case about a week ago on My EVGA X79 Classified motherboard and I heard about the Plasticizer issue with the tubing, I'm probably out of luck on any replacement, just like with Thermaltake, mention used and all they say is no help or advice, basically get lost, is the impression I get. Currently this build is lacking a few parts to go online. I'm not currently prepared to replace the tubing or the kit, though I do like the kit, the 240X sounds nice, but being I have an Azza 9000B case, there are no 140mm holes in the top for such a beast. I could ask of course.

A close up shot of the tubing, ignore the 12awg cable.


----------



## EarlZ

Just installed the H220X yesterday and It looks awesome altho on my Corsair 350D, its not blocking access to the ram and clear CMOS buttons. Temp wise, I noticed a huge drop compared from the H220. In gaming but in stress testing the max temp is very close about 3-4c better on the H220X.


----------



## tongerks

who try to change h240x fittings to barbs?


----------



## Swuell

So due to time constraints currently and not having enough money as of now I was wondering if a bleedtest is really needed for this kit or any other way I could best test it before installing it into the system?

I've been trying to find dyes if a bleedtest was really needed--mayhem was highly recommended--but the best I could find was specialized pc stores and they ship with USPS 3 day so that would still require time. And then I would still need time to bleed it out the and then install it so I doubt I would actually make it before my school starts again.

So I was wondering if there was another way to check for leaks and air bubbles and make sure the kit was working correctly aside from a bleedtest -- like if I were to just jumpstart it would it do anything just watching it run by itself; does that tell me whether I should bleedtest it or not?

It's been a while since I've gotten on this thread and had forgotten quite a few information about this since the last time I had checked this was before my spring semester had started since I was trying to get my computer fully rebuilt before my semester started--which didn't happen--since I needed it and still do, so if anybody could offer an alternative solution or let me know it'd be greatly appreciated it! Since I'm hoping of finally being able to use my computer this last part of the semester as it would save me a ton of headache for sure when doing schoolwork.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So due to time constraints currently and not having enough money as of now I was wondering if a bleedtest is really needed for this kit or any other way I could best test it before installing it into the system?
> 
> I've been trying to find dyes if a bleedtest was really needed--mayhem was highly recommended--but the best I could find was specialized pc stores and they ship with USPS 3 day so that would still require time. And then I would still need time to bleed it out the and then install it so I doubt I would actually make it before my school starts again.
> 
> So I was wondering if there was another way to check for leaks and air bubbles and make sure the kit was working correctly aside from a bleedtest -- like if I were to just jumpstart it would it do anything just watching it run by itself; does that tell me whether I should bleedtest it or not?
> 
> It's been a while since I've gotten on this thread and had forgotten quite a few information about this since the last time I had checked this was before my spring semester had started since I was trying to get my computer fully rebuilt before my semester started--which didn't happen--since I needed it and still do, so if anybody could offer an alternative solution or let me know it'd be greatly appreciated it! Since I'm hoping of finally being able to use my computer this last part of the semester as it would save me a ton of headache for sure when doing schoolwork.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


you could jump your psu with just the h220x connected to sata outside of the case and run it for awhile to check for leaks and bubbles...assuming there aren't any you would be fine...no reason to bleed if there isn't any air to bleed out


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you could jump your psu with just the h220x connected to sata outside of the case and run it for awhile to check for leaks and bubbles...assuming there aren't any you would be fine...no reason to bleed if there isn't any air to bleed out


Ohh ok thanks haha! Recommended number of hours? And my psu is attached to my case already--and was a hassle to get in right--so I'll have to figure out a way to leak test it on top of my case somehow haha. If doing that where would you recommend me to put massive amounts of hard napkins since I don't have paper towels?

And oh thanks! I thought the bleeding was necessary lol! ^^'

EDIT: I'm sure I know how to check for leaks but how would I check for air bubbles or if I need to bleed it? And is there anything I should do before installing the unit?

Thanks again!


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ohh ok thanks haha! Recommended number of hours? And my psu is attached to my case already--and was a hassle to get in right--so I'll have to figure out a way to leak test it on top of my case somehow haha. If doing that where would you recommend me to put massive amounts of hard napkins since I don't have paper towels?
> 
> And oh thanks! I thought the bleeding was necessary lol! ^^'
> 
> EDIT: I'm sure I know how to check for leaks but how would I check for air bubbles or if I need to bleed it? And is there anything I should do before installing the unit?
> 
> Thanks again!


I'm not sure if there is a recommended amount of time, I let my mine run outside of the case for 1-2 hours while I was working on something else.

Just route the necessary power cable from the psu out to the h220-x. I had no issues using my psu that was already installed. I also don't think you'll need to put anything down. Once you get it running you'd see a major leak right away. Keep a towel or something on hand and if you noticed a leak, unplug the power to the unit. Worse thing that happens is you end up with a slightly wet floor or carpet, but I honestly wouldn't expect to see a major leak like that.

Once the unit is running you'll be able to hear if there is an issue with air bubbles. If there are any air bubbles, you should be able to see these in the units window. If you go a few pages back someone just posted a photo showing the air pocket that they were trying to eliminate. Out of the box, I had no issues at all with air or needing to bleed the unit. It was only an issue once I had drained and refilled.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I'm not sure if there is a recommended amount of time, I let my mine run outside of the case for 1-2 hours while I was working on something else.
> 
> Just route the necessary power cable from the psu out to the h220-x. I had no issues using my psu that was already installed. I also don't think you'll need to put anything down. Once you get it running you'd see a major leak right away. Keep a towel or something on hand and if you noticed a leak, unplug the power to the unit. Worse thing that happens is you end up with a slightly wet floor or carpet, but I honestly wouldn't expect to see a major leak like that.
> 
> Once the unit is running you'll be able to hear if there is an issue with air bubbles. If there are any air bubbles, you should be able to see these in the units window. If you go a few pages back someone just posted a photo showing the air pocket that they were trying to eliminate. Out of the box, I had no issues at all with air or needing to bleed the unit. It was only an issue once I had drained and refilled.


this..they are filled and bled before being shipped out so 9/10 are probably good...for the first 10 minutes or so I would move it in all orientations to make sure there isn't any air trapped...then let it run a bit...I always jump the 24 pin cable and have it installed when I test...but doing it outside the case is always safer


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I'm not sure if there is a recommended amount of time, I let my mine run outside of the case for 1-2 hours while I was working on something else.
> 
> Just route the necessary power cable from the psu out to the h220-x. I had no issues using my psu that was already installed. I also don't think you'll need to put anything down. Once you get it running you'd see a major leak right away. Keep a towel or something on hand and if you noticed a leak, unplug the power to the unit. Worse thing that happens is you end up with a slightly wet floor or carpet, but I honestly wouldn't expect to see a major leak like that.
> 
> Once the unit is running you'll be able to hear if there is an issue with air bubbles. If there are any air bubbles, you should be able to see these in the units window. If you go a few pages back someone just posted a photo showing the air pocket that they were trying to eliminate. Out of the box, I had no issues at all with air or needing to bleed the unit. It was only an issue once I had drained and refilled.


Thanks for responding so fast!

Well from what I've read the leak test people have been doing like 24-48 hours so I wasn't sure if that was absolutely necessary lol... And I'll have to figure out how to prop a towel around the thing then since I don't thing I could have the h220x on the floor since it probably won't run right due to the orientation so I'll probably have it hanging from my case and try to prop some towels around it and underneath it in case it leaks. Hope it doesn't leak haha, I'll try to watch it while playing Bloodborne lol >__>. The came finally came in hahh! >__<

Oh what would it sound like -- gurgling? Ok I'll see if I can find the picture a few pages back, thanks! Well that's glad to hear and thanks again! Appreciate your help!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this..they are filled and bled before being shipped out so 9/10 are probably good...for the first 10 minutes or so I would move it in all orientations to make sure there isn't any air trapped...then let it run a bit...I always jump the 24 pin cable and have it installed when I test...but doing it outside the case is always safer


Oh thank you so much! Just to make sure--since I've never jumped anything before--the psu DOES have to be plugged in before jumping it right? :| lol... Noob when it comes to jumping haha. Though the PSU itself does have it's own on and off button or a short of test function (I think?) but I can't really use it since I don't have some other required equipment to make use of it? Forgot what that equipment was but it was necessary to be able to test the psu without the need to plug it in -- sort of like a portable battery(?) I'm guessing.

I also didn't know they were bled before but that's really good to know! I'm trying to finally get this done before school starts back up again haha. And I'll make sure to move the thing around before I jump it also. Thanks!


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Thanks for responding so fast!
> 
> Well from what I've read the leak test people have been doing like 24-48 hours so I wasn't sure if that was absolutely necessary lol... And I'll have to figure out how to prop a towel around the thing then since I don't thing I could have the h220x on the floor since it probably won't run right due to the orientation so I'll probably have it hanging from my case and try to prop some towels around it and underneath it in case it leaks. Hope it doesn't leak haha, I'll try to watch it while playing Bloodborne lol >__>. The came finally came in hahh! >__<
> 
> Oh what would it sound like -- gurgling? Ok I'll see if I can find the picture a few pages back, thanks! Well that's glad to hear and thanks again! Appreciate your help!
> Oh thank you so much! Just to make sure--since I've never jumped anything before--the psu DOES have to be plugged in before jumping it right? :| lol... Noob when it comes to jumping haha. Though the PSU itself does have it's own on and off button or a short of test function (I think?) but I can't really use it since I don't have some other required equipment to make use of it? Forgot what that equipment was but it was necessary to be able to test the psu without the need to plug it in -- sort of like a portable battery(?) I'm guessing.
> 
> I also didn't know they were bled before but that's really good to know! I'm trying to finally get this done before school starts back up again haha. And I'll make sure to move the thing around before I jump it also. Thanks!


Slow day the office









I think that is mainly for people who are putting together custom loops. I used the box it came in to prop it up so the hoses and cpu block could hang properly.

I'm no help with jumping the psu. I've done it in the past but for this I just ended up taking the side panel off my case and used a free sata power connector for testing. Check out post #15198 by Mega Man for some help with the jumping.

Yeah to me it sounded like gurgling or running water. Out of the box it had been so quiet that I wasn't sure that it even had water in it.

Check out post #15235 for a pic of an air bubble in the window.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Slow day the office
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that is mainly for people who are putting together custom loops. I used the box it came in to prop it up so the hoses and cpu block could hang properly.
> 
> I'm no help with jumping the psu. I've done it in the past but for this I just ended up taking the side panel off my case and used a free sata power connector for testing. Check out post #15198 by Mega Man for some help with the jumping.
> 
> Yeah to me it sounded like gurgling or running water. Out of the box it had been so quiet that I wasn't sure that it even had water in it.
> 
> Check out post #15235 for a pic of an air bubble in the window.


Ah -- thanks alot! I'll definitely check it out! I do remember MegaMan's post, I just forgot whether he had noted if it required the psu to be plugged in or not that's why I asked. And lol I'm surprised you can even log onto this website from your office haha. Must be convenient haha!









Oh well, alright I'll definitely watch out for those sounds then.

Thanks for the post references!


----------



## twitchyzero

got a new unit today
acrylic window replaced, coolant refilled and unit has been fully tested all done by Swiftech
Bryan says rust just from coolant filling process (on 3 of 4 fitting, one is a lot more than others)...and little sledges supposedly from the dye. Large air bubble on the bottom right I was told is unavoidable.

just verifying with the owners on here that this is normal out-of-the-box? Didn't see this with my first batch original H220.

rust


debris left side, large air bubble bottom right


----------



## zoom314

When I replace the hoses on My CM Glacer 240L, I'll probably also replace the radiator with either an Alphacool 240x120x86mm or a 360x120x86mm rad, the video cards I'll probably leave as is, since being closed loop and on the old side(3 GTX580 cards and a GTX570), one 580 card has a problem(the PNY LC GTX580), one screw has a stripped head now and needs a micro grabit(the smallest I was advised would do) to remove the screw. A 280x140x86 or a 420x140x86 rad would fit, but there are no 140mm fan mounting holes in the top and no room anywhere else, maybe on My next Azza 9000B/GT1 case, but not on this one. I don't want to go all the way since the rads would have to be thinner and the psu cable needs access to the outside thru the top back of the case, cause the cable is 12awg, instead of the smaller 18awg cable that was in the case for a front mounted psu.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Slow day the office
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that is mainly for people who are putting together custom loops. I used the box it came in to prop it up so the hoses and cpu block could hang properly.
> 
> I'm no help with jumping the psu. I've done it in the past but for this I just ended up taking the side panel off my case and used a free sata power connector for testing. Check out post #15198 by Mega Man for some help with the jumping.
> 
> Yeah to me it sounded like gurgling or running water. Out of the box it had been so quiet that I wasn't sure that it even had water in it.
> 
> Check out post #15235 for a pic of an air bubble in the window.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah -- thanks alot! I'll definitely check it out! I do remember MegaMan's post, I just forgot whether he had noted if it required the psu to be plugged in or not that's why I asked. And lol I'm surprised you can even log onto this website from your office haha. Must be convenient haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, alright I'll definitely watch out for those sounds then.
> 
> Thanks for the post references!
Click to expand...

it can be either on or off, it doesnt matter

it is just like wheat the mobo does, if you have colored 24pin green to black, does not matter which black. only 1 green is on the 24pin 0
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> got a new unit today
> acrylic window replaced, coolant refilled and unit has been fully tested all done by Swiftech
> Bryan says rust just from coolant filling process (on 3 of 4 fitting, one is a lot more than others)...and little sledges supposedly from the dye. Large air bubble on the bottom right I was told is unavoidable.
> 
> just verifying with the owners on here that this is normal out-of-the-box? Didn't see this with my first batch original H220.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> rust
> 
> 
> debris left side, large air bubble bottom right


just wanted to chime in it isnt "rust" it is corrosion. the barbs ( iirc ) are brass and brass does not rust


----------



## TK421

Where can I buy H220 non X? I need the pump on the CPU block since I have limited space on new chassis.

Secondhand would be OK.


----------



## Mega Man

there are you ? the us ? try NCIX

or try to find the glacier 240l from CM


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are you ? the us ? try NCIX
> 
> or try to find the glacier 240l from CM


USA, NYC.

Ah, Amazon has glacier 240 with prime shipping. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJYNM4M/?tag=extension-kb-20

Correct item?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Correct item, just bite that the n sun difference between the two pumps is 3000(swiftech) to cms 3500rpm. Just keep note of that when you start to make fan/pump curves


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Correct item, just bite that the n sun difference between the two pumps is 3000(swiftech) to cms 3500rpm. Just keep note of that when you start to make fan/pump curves


So the CM pump is faster and has higher flow rate at 500rpm higher compared to swiftech pump?

How is the maintenance in this model? Do you have to take it down every month like an open loop or it acts like an AIO and does not need refilling/rebuild within it's warranty period?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can be either on or off, it doesnt matter
> 
> it is just like wheat the mobo does, if you have colored 24pin green to black, does not matter which black. only 1 green is on the 24pin 0


Oh ok thanks for the response!! Glad to know!







Have to go back to your post to see how to jump with paper clip lol. My cables are all black XD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just wanted to chime in it isnt "rust" it is corrosion. the barbs ( iirc ) are brass and brass does not rust


Is corrosion normal...?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Correct item, just bite that the n sun difference between the two pumps is 3000(swiftech) to cms 3500rpm. Just keep note of that when you start to make fan/pump curves
> 
> 
> 
> So the CM pump is faster and has higher flow rate at 500rpm higher compared to swiftech pump?
> 
> How is the maintenance in this model? Do you have to take it down every month like an open loop or it acts like an AIO and does not need refilling/rebuild within it's warranty period?
Click to expand...

who told you you have to maint an open loop every month ? mine goes 1-2 years without issue keep it topped off and use a biocide ....

i have not had to maint my h220 since i bought it, if i had to guess around a year old
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can be either on or off, it doesnt matter
> 
> it is just like wheat the mobo does, if you have colored 24pin green to black, does not matter which black. only 1 green is on the 24pin 0
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok thanks for the response!! Glad to know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to go back to your post to see how to jump with paper clip lol. My cables are all black XD.
Click to expand...

easy google 24 pin and jump pson to ground ( in this photo com = common= ground )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just wanted to chime in it isnt "rust" it is corrosion. the barbs ( iirc ) are brass and brass does not rust
> 
> 
> 
> Is corrosion normal...?
Click to expand...

everything corrodes, is that normal. not usually but yes it does happen


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who told you you have to maint an open loop every month ? mine goes 1-2 years without issue keep it topped off and use a biocide ....
> 
> i have not had to maint my h220 since i bought it, if i had to guess around a year old
> easy google 24 pin and jump pson to ground ( in this photo com = common= ground )
> 
> 
> everything corrodes, is that normal. not usually but yes it does happen


Well if you were to put it that way then yes it is normal to a certain degree but it shouldn't be if you were just getting it... :|. That's what I meant when I asked if it was normal. I know everything corrodes eventually.

Oh and thank you for the photo that actually helps alot!


----------



## Mega Man

i have some in one of my loops you missed the point it happens


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Well if you were to put it that way then yes it is normal to a certain degree but it shouldn't be if you were just getting it... :|. That's what I meant when I asked if it was normal. I know everything corrodes eventually.
> 
> Oh and thank you for the photo that actually helps alot!


contact @BramSLI1 about this in pm he will get you sorted out ... if i remember right he replaced a unit before that had that happen... on the subject of psu jumping i always cut about 1/4 inch or so off a paper clip and use needle nose pliers to bend it in the shape of a u.. it fits perfectly in the two pin holes (i use pins 3 and 4 from the left on the CLIP SIDE... it makes it less likely touch metal either so no worries there... also you can have the leads connected to the psu but you only want the sata to the swiftech unit to be connected on the far end...this will power only the h220x and let you test it without worry of any other components


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have some in one of my loops you missed the point it happens


Ohh. Sorry. :|
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> contact @BramSLI1 about this in pm he will get you sorted out ... if i remember right he replaced a unit before that had that happen... on the subject of psu jumping i always cut about 1/4 inch or so off a paper clip and use needle nose pliers to bend it in the shape of a u.. it fits perfectly in the two pin holes (i use pins 3 and 4 from the left on the CLIP SIDE... it makes it less likely touch metal either so no worries there... also you can have the leads connected to the psu but you only want the sata to the swiftech unit to be connected on the far end...this will power only the h220x and let you test it without worry of any other components


Ah I haven't even done mine yet haha, I was asking about the other guys but thanks I'll let BramSLl1 know if it happens to mine. I don't have a scissor to cut the paper clips... :|. What are the leads -- you mean the all the other connections that I have connected to the PSU is ok(?) as long as the other end of the connections aren't connected to any other things like another HDD or something? I'm guessing that's what you mean -- correct?

And thanks!


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everything corrodes, is that normal. not usually but yes it does happen


as in, would you expect it in a brand new kit?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everything corrodes, is that normal. not usually but yes it does happen
> 
> 
> 
> as in, would you expect it in a brand new kit?
Click to expand...

I would not expect that in a brand new kit, When I got mine it has no corrosion what so ever, no air bubbles visible on the res. Altho the window I have is extremely dirty which was already discussed to death before.

EDIT:

A few mins ago I received the replacement H220X kit from my retailer for my defective H220 and this kit has a lot of debri visibly floating on the res and a huge air bubble :/


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> as in, would you expect it in a brand new kit?


Thank you... That's what I meant...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I would not expect that in a brand new kit, When I got mine it has no corrosion what so ever, no air bubbles visible on the res. Altho the window I have is extremely dirty which was already discussed to death before.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> A few mins ago I received the replacement H220X kit from my retailer for my defective H220 and this kit has a lot of debri visibly floating on the res and a huge air bubble :/


Damn you're luck is about as *rotten as mine... I'm about to check my kit and now I'm afraid... -__-.


----------



## Swuell

I do have a question though is how to fit a 140mm ontop of a h220x? I remember i read somewhere that it was doable if it was mounted on the top of the case. But I'm trying to figure it out would you need a small screw to fit the h220x first and then fit the 140mm on the case which then screws into the h220x?

EDIT: Also for the more experienced--since I'm a little bit confused--for the h220x's block apparently you have to connect it to the AUX port on the motherboard, I was wondering if I could instead connect it to my PWM fan controller? Does that where you connect it to the AUX tell the pump's line?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everything corrodes, is that normal. not usually but yes it does happen
> 
> 
> 
> as in, would you expect it in a brand new kit?
Click to expand...

You guys are looking for a different answer. But again
*it does happen*


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You guys are looking for a different answer. But again
> *it does happen*


I apologized to you already! Do you know anything about what i asked above? ^


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I do have a question though is how to fit a 140mm ontop of a h220x? I remember i read somewhere that it was doable if it was mounted on the top of the case. But I'm trying to figure it out would you need a small screw to fit the h220x first and then fit the 140mm on the case which then screws into the h220x?
> 
> EDIT: Also for the more experienced--since I'm a little bit confused--for the h220x's block apparently you have to connect it to the AUX port on the motherboard, I was wondering if I could instead connect it to my PWM fan controller? Does that where you connect it to the AUX tell the pump's line?


try this??


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> try this??


Or try this instead.

It's made by Koolance: http://koolance.com/120mm-to-140mm-bracket-adapter


----------



## crazyxelite

Hi everyone my pc suddendly shutted down, and then i checked in the bios the cpu is overheating. So what happened with the watercooler? And now i dont see the blue led from the cpu socket


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Hi everyone my pc suddendly shutted down, and then i checked in the bios the cpu is overheating. So what happened with the watercooler? And now i dont see the blue led from the cpu socket


Almost sure your pump stopped working.
I had the same problem, wait for an hour and just try to squeeze the tubes when you start the computer (make sure to enter bios and avoid speed up the cpu heating)


----------



## crazyxelite

Thanks i will try. I just have done a double check in the cables and its all well connected...


----------



## ZC4065

Has anyone got any experience mounting an H220-x vertically on the front of a case?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Thanks i will try. I just have done a double check in the cables and its all well connected...


Can you tell me what kit you're using and how you have it connected?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Is there a guide for expanding the H240x out there? I can't seem to find one exactly. If not is there anything I should know about expanding it? For instance will I need to keep the radiator mounted outside of my case to top off the loop before mounting it up top? Also can I easily swap out the barbs on the radiator/block to compression fittings?

Thanks


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Is there a guide for expanding the H240x out there? I can't seem to find one exactly. If not is there anything I should know about expanding it? For instance will I need to keep the radiator mounted outside of my case to top off the loop before mounting it up top? Also can I easily swap out the barbs on the radiator/block to compression fittings?
> 
> Thanks


I think you just need to drain the H240x first, put all of the necessary tubes, extra rads, and fittings, then fill it up again. You may need more coolant in there though.

Yes you can swap the stock fittings to whatever you want as long as it is using G1/4 threads. I asked this question before... I think!


----------



## TK421

Any difference between CM Glacer 240 v1 and v2?


----------



## RedIron

Hey all!

I've been wondering if I should be concerned about my CPU temps.

The ambient room temperature is about 10 to 12C in a Basement with a dehumidifier running. (Keeps mold out of the room.)

At Idle, my CPU temps are about 23-25C, somewhere around a *+12C delta* above room temperature. Under full load on all 4 cores via 4 instances of MATLAB , I'm getting temperatures averaging about 50-55C. These temps can last *days at a time* as some of my MATLAB calculations are lengthy. They are not graphic based calculations.

I use:

H240-X in the top of my case
Be QUIET! Silent Base 800 ATX
2 140mm Front Intake Fans uncovered.
1 140mm Rear Exhaust Fan
i7 4790k CPU @ 4.4 Ghz (Turbo boost used to increase from Base 4.0Ghz)
Maximus VII Formula mobo
2 x8 GB of 2400 Mhz CL10 ram (I've heard high frequency ram can cause more heat in the CPU??)
850 Pro SSD
*No GPU.*

Thoughts?









PS Pics to come later when I get home.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> I've been wondering if I should be concerned about my CPU temps.
> 
> The ambient room temperature is about 10 to 12C in a Basement with a dehumidifier running. (Keeps mold out of the room.)
> 
> At Idle, my CPU temps are about 23-25C, somewhere around a *+12C delta* above room temperature. Under full load on all 4 cores via 4 instances of MATLAB , I'm getting temperatures averaging about 50-55C. These temps can last *days at a time* as some of my MATLAB calculations are lengthy. They are not graphic based calculations.
> 
> I use:
> 
> H240-X in the top of my case
> Be QUIET! Silent Base 800 ATX
> 2 140mm Front Intake Fans uncovered.
> 1 140mm Rear Exhaust Fan
> i7 4790k CPU @ 4.4 Ghz
> Maximus VII Formula mobo
> 2 x8 GB of 2400 Mhz CL10 ram (I've heard high frequency ram can cause more heat in the CPU??)
> 850 Pro SSD
> *No GPU.*
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Pics to come later when I get home.


It really depends on what voltage your processor requires to provide that overclock. The higher the voltage then the higher your temperature is going to be. Those temperatures do look very good though for a processor that runs at full load for long periods of time. Maybe a little high for that ambient temperature, but that would depend on the chip, the voltage it needs to hold that overclock, and what your airflow is like.

If that chip isn't delided then I'd say those are actually pretty good temperatures regardless of the other factors.


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you tell me what kit you're using and how you have it connected?


Hi sure, the one that come from the socket is on a normal header, fan controller on the cpu header i think theres another one that comes from the reservoir that is on the header close to the cpu. Always worked. Another think i remember is i have been playing with speedfan. Im not home but i can take a picture later. Sorry my english is not so good im in uk now but i born in portugal.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> try this??


Oh I didn't even know they made those! Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> Or try this instead.
> 
> It's made by Koolance: http://koolance.com/120mm-to-140mm-bracket-adapter


! Would that diminish my 140mm air or I would still get the 140mm air current?

My case is a phantom 410 so I have the necessary holes needed to put a 140mm on top and connect the h220x on the bottom I just wasn't exactly sure the proper way to do it. Would this solution work the best instead of just using small screws to screw it on to the case and then using the fans screws to screw the 140mm onto the case? If that makes sense?

Since the reason I got the 140mm was to get more airflow into my h220x since I read somewhere you could do that for the h220x. Thanks!


----------



## Swuell

I also have another question if I have an PWM fan controller (the aquaero 6) and I want to be able to tell the RPM's of both my fans and the pump line what's the best way to connect these?

Would it be to connect the fans and the pump line to my aquaero directly--with the fans being connected to a pwm splitter so that I can connect one end to the CPU_Fan--which makes it so that the motherboard doesn't think I don't have any fans connected to it?


----------



## Swuell

I'm examining mine currently and performing the leak test but when I was examining mine there was quite a big air bubble in mine--though only 1 that I could see--is that an issue or would that be an issue? How would I get rid of it?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Any difference between CM Glacer 240 v1 and v2?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*


I have never seen them labeled as such, but there was a revision made to the pump to address an issue with speeds dropping too low which caused overheating. It did not affect performance, only reliability.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have never seen them labeled as such, but there was a revision made to the pump to address an issue with speeds dropping too low which caused overheating. It did not affect performance, only reliability.


If you look at pcpartpicker there's a v1 and v2.
I went to microcenter yesterday and the box was also labelled "v2".

The pump is pwm then (have sata+4pin)? Is it possible to run it full speed 24/7 without speed adjustment?


----------



## NIK1

Got my H240 loop all hooked up with a Komodo R9LE water block on my sapphire R9 290 and extra swiftech 120 mm rad.Just wondering with a vid card putting out heat into the loop what kind of pump speed should I run. My cpu is at 27-29 at idle and the gpu is 31-33 at idle. When gaming the gpu hits around 49-52 range. How do these temps look for a start and any pump speed tips appreciated.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Got my H240 loop all hooked up with a Komodo R9LE water block on my sapphire R9 290 and extra swiftech 120 mm rad.Just wondering with a vid card putting out heat into the loop what kind of pump speed should I run. My cpu is at 27-29 at idle and the gpu is 31-33 at idle. When gaming the gpu hits around 49-52 range. How do these temps look for a start and any pump speed tips appreciated.


Those temps actually looks really good for a R9 290. You really shouldn't worry too much there. As to pump speed, just let the PWM controller do its thing. If for some reason you get annoyed by pump or fans moving too fast, you could adjust it in your motherboards BIOS (unless you use software, that works too). For idle temps pump speed of 14-20% seems adequate with this kit, and 60% is more than enough for load speeds in most cases.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Has anyone got any experience mounting an H220-x vertically on the front of a case?


I.have mine mounted with the window to the right in the front space on my enthoo pro...it is only secured with six of 8 screws but it is sturdy enough...also had to remove my optical bays and hard drive cages...but I have plenty of space to make some acrylic plates to house what I need there


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I.have mine mounted with the window to the right in the front space on my enthoo pro...it is only secured with six of 8 screws but it is sturdy enough...also had to remove my optical bays and hard drive cages...but I have plenty of space to make some acrylic plates to house what I need there


Do you have any pictures that you can post of this? I'm sure others would like to see how you managed to install it in the front.


----------



## zoom314

Who covers the 'CM Glacer 240L' here?

Or is this a Swiftech only thread now?

Not that I have anything against Swiftech, I own a 240L afterall.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> Who covers the 'CM Glacer 240L' here?
> 
> Or is this a Swiftech only thread now?
> 
> Not that I have anything against Swiftech, I own a 240L afterall.


There is a CM rep who monitors this thread. I haven't seen him in a while though. Maybe I can help you?


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> There is a CM rep who monitors this thread. I haven't seen him in a while though. Maybe I can help you?


I was just worried about the tubing on My 240L, the plasticizer issue, since the unit is used, in My experience, the warranty only covers the original user.

I like the unit and I'm good with tools, though I do lack a clean bucket and a few other things at the moment. So I guess that covers that. If I'm wrong, please chime in, thanks.


----------



## crazyxelite

Can someone help me i wont know what to do. Video : 



 sometimes the led light turn on but just for one sec before the shutdown


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> I was just worried about the tubing on My 240L, the plasticizer issue, since the unit is used, in My experience, the warranty only covers the original user.
> 
> I like the unit and I'm good with tools, though I do lack a clean bucket and a few other things at the moment. So I guess that covers that. If I'm wrong, please chime in, thanks.


Yes, if you're using the original tubing then there is a chance that you'll have plasticizer issues. I suggest changing it out for neorprene or rubber tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Can someone help me i wont know what to do. Video :
> 
> 
> 
> sometimes the led light turn on but just for one sec before the shutdown


Are you sure that you have the pump connected to channel 1 of your splitter and the splitter connected to the CPU fan header of your motherboard? The reason I ask is that your Apogee XL block doesn't light up right away so I'm thinking that you have it connected to your CPU fan header rather than the pump. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, if you're using the original tubing then there is a chance that you'll have plasticizer issues. I suggest changing it out for neorprene or rubber tubing.
> Are you sure that you have the pump connected to channel 1 of your splitter and the splitter connected to the CPU fan header of your motherboard? The reason I ask is that your Apogee XL block doesn't light up right away so I'm thinking that you have it connected to your CPU fan header rather than the pump. Let me know if that resolves your issue.


Yes its all right. This is getting really wierd i switched the energy cable and the red light boot_device_led turn on and after some sec the pump started working. Then it turn off. When i turn it on again same thing happen. Im really confused.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you have any pictures that you can post of this? I'm sure others would like to see how you managed to install it in the front.


yeah I can post some when I get home keep in mind nothing else is in it's proper place because I knew a good bit would have to come out soon again to add the pump back in but you get to see the mounting holes I used and how much was taken out for it to fit


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Those temps actually looks really good for a R9 290. You really shouldn't worry too much there. As to pump speed, just let the PWM controller do its thing. If for some reason you get annoyed by pump or fans moving too fast, you could adjust it in your motherboards BIOS (unless you use software, that works too). For idle temps pump speed of 14-20% seems adequate with this kit, and 60% is more than enough for load speeds in most cases.


agreed I have two 290s and 8320 @ 4.8 and gpus never break 50 while gaming and havent seen the cpu hit over 55c...this is with 2 240 rads a 280 rad 2 komodo blocks apogee kit all pumped by the lone mcp30 in the h220x...Which I was surprised considering I thought the pump wouldn't be able to handle it though soon the mcp50x will be helping it







however I'm running pump and all fans full out 100 percent


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> try this??
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I didn't even know they made those! Thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> Or try this instead
> It's made by Koolance: http://koolance.com/120mm-to-140mm-bracket-adapter
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ! Would that diminish my 140mm air or I would still get the 140mm air current?
> 
> My case is a phantom 410 so I have the necessary holes needed to put a 140mm on top and connect the h220x on the bottom I just wasn't exactly sure the proper way to do it. Would this solution work the best instead of just using small screws to screw it on to the case and then using the fans screws to screw the 140mm onto the case? If that makes sense?
> 
> Since the reason I got the 140mm was to get more airflow into my h220x since I read somewhere you could do that for the h220x. Thanks!
Click to expand...

first

airflow ( aka CFM ) means nothing on a rad.

you care about static pressure

however 99% of fans static pressure rating means NOTHING

you need a p-q chart

second there are FAR better 120mm fans for rads then 140mm ( when talking about rad fans )

although 140mm is starting to get bigger, ( not size but in usage ) maybe soon they can produce one worth while but i have not seen any

this is a good read
Why Static Pressure & Max Flow Specs Are Poor Measures of Fan Performance

i also recommend anything under "how to & misc" unfortunately the drop down menu is gone now that his website moved , so it is not as easy to find, also feel free to skip ANYTHING related to products, unless you want to


----------



## EarlZ

Is it worth replacing my GT-AP15 for those new EK fans ?


----------



## ivoryg37

I just order the H220-X. Does it come with the G1/4 Adapter for the pump to use other fitting. I don't know if I have to order this separately or not


----------



## MHound

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx You need to purchase it separately.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is it worth replacing my GT-AP15 for those new EK fans ?


from everything i have heard no


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ok so ignore the rat's nest of wires that will be remedied when I put the pump back in  I will get better pictures later this I have to get up in 3 hours for work again







I had to remove both the optical bays and the hd cages...so ill be making platforms soon for my hard drive and pump/res...also I need to swap the fans to intake on the h220x all will be fine in time I didn't switch them because right now it's not all that important with all the panels off it's kinda like a test bench lol...also anyone who does this should buy a pack of small washers the size of the inset I will be doing this as well


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, if you're using the original tubing then there is a chance that you'll have plasticizer issues. I suggest changing it out for neoprene or rubber tubing.


The replacement tubing won't be able to be done right away, but as money permits since My income is limited, right now I have property taxes to pay for on the 1st, a loan to pay for on the 1st, parts to get to allow the potential operation of My new PC to replace My current failing PC, weed killer to get and I'm waiting on either repairing an evaporative cooler or getting a window air conditioner that has a thermostat and I've been told to wait, since I may be getting some a/c before or on or after the 1st when I get My next check from a program to help low income people and I do need it, the temp in here is 90F as I write this and I have 4 windows wide open, outside the temp is 80F now, the high was 90F outside today. Right now I'm broke, so I have to wait, I have no choice. Besides even if I had the parts, no one could work on the cooler before the 15th, help here is hard or expensive to get. In any case I'll get this 'PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in. x 5/8in. Tubing (10ft pack) - Bloodshed Red', from Primo Chills website, since Amazon is showing this color to be unavailable.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first
> 
> airflow ( aka CFM ) means nothing on a rad.
> 
> you care about static pressure
> 
> however 99% of fans static pressure rating means NOTHING
> 
> you need a p-q chart
> 
> second there are FAR better 120mm fans for rads then 140mm ( when talking about rad fans )
> 
> although 140mm is starting to get bigger, ( not size but in usage ) maybe soon they can produce one worth while but i have not seen any
> 
> this is a good read
> Why Static Pressure & Max Flow Specs Are Poor Measures of Fan Performance
> 
> i also recommend anything under "how to & misc" unfortunately the drop down menu is gone now that his website moved , so it is not as easy to find, also feel free to skip ANYTHING related to products, unless you want to


I know about the static pressure which is what I meant and I have the noctua AF industrial 140mm with adequate static pressure that is 140mm which I was planning on using for this rad. I just wanted to know how I would go about putting it on the phantom 410. I did use the wrong terminology so yeah. Anyway I can't really get any fans anymore--not enough money--and the fact I had already spent money on these fans and have no way of returning them so I'm kind of stuck with them so might as well make use of what I have the best possible.

Just wanted to know the best way to put install them is all.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok . No you should be fine installing them fyi


----------



## jam71

Hi, but Swiftech h220x do not sell it in Italy? months are looking for him, you know tell me a site even non Italian to buy it? thanks in advance to those who help me!
P.S sorry for my english


----------



## d0mmie

I think I'm the most unlucky person lately... In the last 6 months I've had the following hardware go toast: EVGA GTX 780 Ti Refence, MSI X99S SLI Plus mainboard, 2 x Corsair K70 keyboards, ASUS Xonar U7 soundcard, and now my Swiftech H240-X cooler...









First the bleed screw on my H240-X breaks in half the first time I screwed it out. Now some months after my reservoir is leaking from somewhere... Will have to return it to the shop for RMA. I'm quite happy that I saved my old Antec Kühler 620, but damn it was hard placing the stock cooler back on the ASUS Matrix Platinum GTX 780 Ti! All things considered it worked out, and my PC is fully functional again.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok . No you should be fine installing them fyi


I shot you a pm about how to go about getting a readout from both the fans and the pump from the same channel since you said it was possible (?). And so should I use the adapter that was listed or just install it on my case since from the looks of it the adapter just gives me what I already have on my case?


----------



## twitchyzero

when i turned the fitting and bent the hose a bit out came the rusty water














The screw by the fitting was tight.





I kept in this orientation and it seems ok now. That's not too much strain/restriction for water flow is it?



I wanna run the pump at 100% for few hours just to be 100% sure there's no leaks.

What's the easiest way to do this? Run any CPU stress test?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> when i turned the fitting and bent the hose a bit out came the rusty water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screw by the fitting was tight.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kept in this orientation and it seems ok now. That's not too much strain/restriction for water flow is it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna run the pump at 100% for few hours just to be 100% sure there's no leaks.
> 
> What's the easiest way to do this? Run any CPU stress test?


Easiest and safest way is to unplug everything except the pump, bridge the green pin on the 24 pin with any black pin on the 24 pin, and and turn the PSU on. This lets you run the pump without power applied to anything else so it does not short anything if it leaks.


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Expanded my h220x. 2 msi 980's, i7 4790k, and a alphacool t60 rad.


----------



## kw301

hello all ... im looking for some advice. just got my 240x and Im working on a new rig with all new components. couple questions;

should i test the cooler for a while before assembly ?

should i mount the cooler to the cpu on motherboard then try to mount motherboard and cooler into the case or should i mount motherboard and cooler into case then attach to cpu?

do i need to change the lines due to fear of plasticizer? kinda defeats the purpose of buying one of these AIO coolers since i have no experience with them if that step is needed on a unit i just bought

sorry if these are dumb questions but this is my first water cooled build and looking for some good advice ... thanks


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kw301*
> 
> hello all ... im looking for some advice. just got my 240x and Im working on a new rig with all new components. couple questions;
> 
> should i test the cooler for a while before assembly ?


Not necessary but if you feel the need too you can.
Quote:


> should i mount the cooler to the cpu on motherboard then try to mount motherboard and cooler into the case or should i mount motherboard and cooler into case then attach to cpu?


There's no right answer to this question. The best way IMO is to mount the CPU block to the motherboard/cpu already in the case then mount the radiator up top. Careful though the rad is pretty heavy with the pump/res attached to it.
Quote:


> do i need to change the lines due to fear of plasticizer? kinda defeats the purpose of buying one of these AIO coolers since i have no experience with them if that step is needed on a unit i just bought


No, the unit is warrantied as is for 3 years. You don't need to change anything out.


----------



## Dry Bonez

This is why i love my H220X







this thing is so beast.
so i figured i post some positive feedback every now and then. For anyone on the fence on getting one, please just pull the trigger.I have my 4670k @4.5 w/ 1.275V (stable) and doesnt go above 63c. i can go higher but not necessary unless emulating dolphin or something.







let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> from everything i have heard no


Is he referring to those EK vardar fans? Also megaman, would it be wise(money not being an issue) to get those new EK fans to replace the stock fans that come with the H220x? In his case it wont be much of an upgrade as i heard GT's are excellent fans, but would it be a step up for me to go from these stock fans to those new EK vardar fans? thanks


----------



## Mega Man

or you could just buy gts ?

they are not that hard to find

http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

as far as ek vs swiftech no idea


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or you could just buy gts ?
> 
> they are not that hard to find
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html
> 
> as far as ek vs swiftech no idea


awesome..but from what i saw in the link you provided, correct me if i am wrong. Those say case fans. The EK vardars are radiator fans. So idk if those would be ideal for radiators. Im no expert but just pointing that out.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> awesome..but from what i saw in the link you provided, correct me if i am wrong. Those say case fans. The EK vardars are radiator fans. So idk if those would be ideal for radiators. Im no expert but just pointing that out.


Gentle Typhoons are great for all purposes. No fan is exclusively a radiator fan/case fan. Vardars are good though. The main spec to look for in fans for a radiator or CPU cooler is static pressure. I would buy some Vardar F4's or F5's and adjust the RPM to your liking. Vardar F3's are basically the same as an 1850rpm Gentle typhoon for $2 less.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I know this is the thread for the h2 series however I gotta plug for the komodo 290 block...I read two reviews each saying opposite things one good one on the poor side...but knowing the quality of the swiftech products I've used before I jumped in with both feet...the blocks perform more in line with the former review in that my cores haven't broken 55c in any application yet...and vrms haven't broken 60c..I can only assume something was amiss on the one review...but other than the red inserts for the led looking a little orangeish I'm very happy with these blocks and they are very robust with thermal pads already applied (not that that's hard....honestly if you can't manage that went why you taking a gpu apart) I figured running battlefield 4 with 200 resolution scale would best them up but nah they were like "that it...ill just chug asking here at 55"


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are great for all purposes. No fan is exclusively a radiator fan/case fan. Vardars are good though. The main spec to look for in fans for a radiator or CPU cooler is static pressure. I would buy some Vardar F4's or F5's and adjust the RPM to your liking. Vardar F3's are basically the same as an 1850rpm Gentle typhoon for $2 less.


bro,im about to order these suckers. oul it be wise to get an f4 2200rpm and an f3 1850 for my h220x stock fans?


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> bro,im about to order these suckers. oul it be wise to get an f4 2200rpm and an f3 1850 for my h220x stock fans?


The F4 might give you slightly lower temps than the F3, but the F3 will probably be quieter. Get the F3 if you want less noise, get the F4 if you are willing to have a little more noise with a little more performance.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> The F4 might give you slightly lower temps than the F3, but the F3 will probably be quieter. Get the F3 if you want less noise, get the F4 if you are willing to have a little more noise with a little more performance.


look at what i plan on doing...i have a bitfenix fan controller and would connect the 2200rpm to the fan controller to lower it to match the 1850 one for quieter noise but when benching and stuff,crank it at max and the other 1850 fan just hook that up to the h220x splitter. or thats not a good idea?


----------



## VSG

No, because you should try to not undervolt PWM devices really. The EK fans actually have a worse performance/noise profile when undervolted compared to PWM control too.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, because you should try to not undervolt PWM devices really. The EK fans actually have a worse performance/noise profile when undervolted compared to PWM control too.


awesome info...so what do you suggest for performance/quietness? honestly, i just dont want these stock fans anymore.


----------



## zoom314

For performance, Delta or some other high rpm fan comes to mind. Something at or above 100cfm.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> awesome info...so what do you suggest for performance/quietness? honestly, i just dont want these stock fans anymore.


Are you using the stock fans with the Bitfenix controller also? Try controlling them off your motherboard's CPU fan header and something like Speedfan or your board's fan controller program if available. You also really won't benefit much from running the stock fans at more than 50% speed given the nature of the radiator used here.


----------



## baconboys

I was just wondering if you knew of anyone doing any kind of testing on the stock fans vs. aftermarket ones. I have an H320 and a 4790K @ 4.6 and 1.75 V and I have yet to break 60C during gaming and my fans rarely get above1750 and are plenty quiet for my liking. My fan profile is pretty flat and my ambient temp. is 20 C. Just wondering why so many guys are looking at changing the stock fans.


----------



## hypespazm

So I recently Purchased the H240X I also purchased a 2x120MM rad thats 2 1/2 inches thick and a RES also thinking of getting another Cylinder RES and using that instead of the square one for aesthetics. now I havent purchased any tubing or anything but I did receive some fittings with the purchase now I wanted some advice from you guys who have experience with this loop. Main reason Im adding these things is because I wanted to add my gtx 780 to the loop. (still havent found a good block) also tied back with money a tad but I wanted some insight if you guys could point me in the right direction





















thanks!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> awesome..but from what i saw in the link you provided, correct me if i am wrong. Those say case fans. The EK vardars are radiator fans. So idk if those would be ideal for radiators. Im no expert but just pointing that out.
> 
> 
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are great for all purposes. No fan is exclusively a radiator fan/case fan. Vardars are good though. The main spec to look for in fans for a radiator or CPU cooler is static pressure. I would buy some Vardar F4's or F5's and adjust the RPM to your liking. Vardar F3's are basically the same as an 1850rpm Gentle typhoon for $2 less.
Click to expand...

if you dont believe me ( which is fine, "trust but verify" - Ronald Regan )
feel free to ask in the GT club iirc it has been tested

http://www.overclock.net/t/807428/official-scythe-gentletyphoon-club/2600_100#post_23685239

one option is to get the high speed and PWM mod them ( solder a 4th wire on and install a new fan connector )
gives you ~ 1krpm -max

but dont listen to static pressure nor CFM

here is why
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> No, because you should try to not undervolt PWM devices really. The EK fans actually have a worse performance/noise profile when undervolted compared to PWM control too.
> 
> 
> 
> awesome info...so what do you suggest for performance/quietness? honestly, i just dont want these stock fans anymore.
Click to expand...

Gentle typhoons
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> For performance, Delta or some other high rpm fan comes to mind. Something at or above 100cfm.


>.> see above link

cfm is near useless on determining fans


----------



## VSG

Yeah seriously if you guys have GTs already then don't bother replacing them for performance or noise with similar RPM models. Ditto with the EK Vardars. There's very little to distinguish between them as it is, and they are in the top performing fans of the many, many fans that are available.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you dont believe me ( which is fine, "trust but verify" - Ronald Regan )
> feel free to ask in the GT club iirc it has been tested
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/807428/official-scythe-gentletyphoon-club/2600_100#post_23685239
> 
> one option is to get the high speed and PWM mod them ( solder a 4th wire on and install a new fan connector )
> gives you ~ 1krpm -max
> 
> but dont listen to static pressure nor CFM
> 
> here is why
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
> Gentle typhoons
> >.> see above link
> 
> cfm is near useless on determining fans


well damn, that was an interesting read and discovery my friend. WOW. so its just another markting strategy and myth that people keep using to measure fans huh?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah seriously if you guys have GTs already then don't bother replacing them for performance or noise with similar RPM models. Ditto with the EK Vardars. There's very little to distinguish between them as it is, and they are in the top performing fans of the many, many fans that are available.


From what i gather GT's, also these vardars which are similar to GT's in many ways are basically the top tier fans. these are the cream of the crop of fans,right?


----------



## jincuteguy

Hi guys, I just built a new X99 pc, and Im looking to get the Swiftech H240-X, but I don't see anywhere that is selling them. I see some H220-X available.
So how is the H240-X compare to the H220-X? Like how much more performance would I get with the H240-X over the H220-X? thanks.

5820K @ 4.5ghz 1.265v
Asus X99 board
16gb DDR4
GTX 980
NZXT 810 Switch case


----------



## deme

Well, I have GT's 1850 & EK Vardars 1850 & Helix fans and from my personal experience GT's > EK > Helix (more silent than EK but worse performance)


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi guys, I just built a new X99 pc, and Im looking to get the Swiftech H240-X, but I don't see anywhere that is selling them. I see some H220-X available.
> So how is the H240-X compare to the H220-X? Like how much more performance would I get with the H240-X over the H220-X? thanks.
> 
> 5820K @ 4.5ghz 1.265v
> Asus X99 board
> 16gb DDR4
> GTX 980
> NZXT 810 Switch case


H240x will be about 2-3c cooler. It's a small improvement but worth it IMO.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi guys, I just built a new X99 pc, and Im looking to get the Swiftech H240-X, but I don't see anywhere that is selling them. I see some H220-X available.
> So how is the H240-X compare to the H220-X? Like how much more performance would I get with the H240-X over the H220-X? thanks.
> 
> 5820K @ 4.5ghz 1.265v
> Asus X99 board
> 16gb DDR4
> GTX 980
> NZXT 810 Switch case


The H240-X is in stock on the Swiftech presently.


----------



## zoom314

Well I'll just stick with the Delta fans then.


----------



## twitchyzero

what's the easiest way to get pump running 100%?
I ran prime95 and speedfan ranges 2550-2700rpm....

just to confirm, in the pre-installed configruation the fans are intake right?


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> what's the easiest way to get pump running 100%?
> I ran prime95 and speedfan ranges 2550-2700rpm....
> 
> just to confirm, in the pre-installed configruation the fans are intake right?


Stock fans are indeed configured as intake.

I have the Asus AI Suite, and I just ramp up the CPU fan headers to 100%. Speed fan can do the same as well.


----------



## sav4

Is there anything you guys would order with a h240x that maybe need Tim coolant ?
I don't have a local stockist so trying to get the most out of the freight
Thanks


----------



## jincuteguy

Hi guys, I just place an order for the H240-X from Swiftech website, should be here either tomorrow or Tuesday. Currently I'm using the new Corsair H100i GTX cooler, just bought it couple days ago. Do you guys think the H240-X will be a lot better? And should I return the Corsair one? any infos whould be appreciated.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi guys, I just place an order for the H240-X from Swiftech website, should be here either tomorrow or Tuesday. Currently I'm using the new Corsair H100i GTX cooler, just bought it couple days ago. Do you guys think the H240-X will be a lot better? And should I return the Corsair one? any infos whould be appreciated.


You should return the Corsair one. The H240x will be a few degrees cooler while running quieter fans and gives you the option to expand to more components/radiators in the future.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> You should return the Corsair one. The H240x will be a few degrees cooler while running quieter fans and gives you the option to expand to more components/radiators in the future.


What? Only a few degrees cooler? ARe you serious? From most of the reviews I've seen for the H240-X, it beats the Corsair H100i about 7-10c.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What? Only a few degrees cooler? ARe you serious? From most of the reviews I've seen for the H240-X, it beats the Corsair H100i about 7-10c.


Depends on the cpu and volts
What are your temps atm ?
I'm trying to decide the same thing if it's worth get one or a s36 .
I think the main difference is the quality and low noise of the swiftech units and expand ability.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What? Only a few degrees cooler? ARe you serious? From most of the reviews I've seen for the H240-X, it beats the Corsair H100i about 7-10c.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Depends on the cpu and volts
> What are your temps atm ?
> I'm trying to decide the same thing if it's worth get one or a s36 .
> I think the main difference is the quality and low noise of the swiftech units and expand ability.


There is an article being published later today that shows the H110i GT vs the H240-X directly, a second with the H100i GTX against the H220-X is being published tomorrow. I can't specify results until publication, but....yeah, get that return authorization going.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What? Only a few degrees cooler? ARe you serious? From most of the reviews I've seen for the H240-X, it beats the Corsair H100i about 7-10c.


Did you not read what I said?
Quote:


> the H240x will be a few degrees cooler while running quieter fans


Corsair AIOs need 45-50db fans to keep up with Swiftech units using 30-35db fans. And they still lose by a few degrees. You could always slap CM Jetflows or Corsair SP120 HPs on an H220x and run them at max to see even better results. I'm not sure exactly what 140mm's run at 2200RPM+ like the ones I mentioned before but you could probably find some.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is an article being published later today that shows the H110i GT vs the H240-X directly, a second with the H100i GTX against the H220-X is being published tomorrow. I can't specify results until publication, but....yeah, get that return authorization going.


Please do supply a link when it go live ?


----------



## InsideJob

I'm so tempted to buy the H240-X off the swiftech site... but the cheapest shipping option is showing as $46 which is a bit too high IMO.
Yeah going to have to wait for NCIX to stock it, after shipping and conversion to CAD the order would have been nearly well $300... Why you have to be worth so little right now Canadian dollar?!?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Please do supply a link when it go live ?


Yes please do, and what website would this article be published on?


----------



## LOKI23NY

If I wanted to add a drain line, can I just use a piece of tubing with a stop at the end or is it better to use a valve? I figured I could go without a valve and just use the remaining fittings I have left.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> If I wanted to add a drain line, can I just use a piece of tubing with a stop at the end or is it better to use a valve? I figured I could go without a valve and just use the remaining fittings I have left.


yeah valve for the win....tube and stop it's for cheap people like me lol


----------



## fisher6

I'm thinking to order the h220x soon for my h440 case but I would like to expand to cool my MSI GTX 970 but since this is my first watercooling system I need help figuring out which parts I need to order:

- Blue coolant
- New tubing for the entire loop - I want the blue coolant to be visible so something transparent maybe.
- Radiator big enough for GTX 970 (120?). I will most likely buy a second one so if I can just buy a bigger rad that will accommodate both then I will do that.
- Waterblock and backplate for the GPU - I want a good looking one
- Fittings - no idea what to buy here.
- Anything else I missed.

My other problem is I don't know which brand is good. I have only heard about EK and they seem popular. My budget is flexible, that said, I don't want to buy anything that has no added value (except for aesthetics). My current system is very silent and would like to keep it that way.

Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm thinking to order the h220x soon for my h440 case but I would like to expand to cool my MSI GTX 970 but since this is my first watercooling system I need help figuring out which parts I need to order:
> 
> - Blue coolant
> - New tubing for the entire loop - I want the blue coolant to be visible so something transparent maybe.
> - Radiator big enough for GTX 970 (120?). I will most likely buy a second one so if I can just buy a bigger rad that will accommodate both then I will do that.
> - Waterblock and backplate for the GPU - I want a good looking one
> - Fittings - no idea what to buy here.
> - Anything else I missed.
> 
> My other problem is I don't know which brand is good. I have only heard about EK and they seem popular. My budget is flexible, that said, I don't want to buy anything that has no added value (except for aesthetics). My current system is very silent and would like to keep it that way.
> 
> Thanks


We recommend staying away from any and all nano-fluids. These fluids are fine in most situations, but our pump does appear to have an issue with them. If you have any other questions then let me know.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We recommend staying away from any and all nano-fluids. These fluids are fine in most situations, but our pump does appear to have an issue with them. If you have any other questions then let me know.


Thanks for the fast reply, by nano-fluids does that exclude all coolants/fluids (I'm totally new to watercooling).


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the fast reply, by nano-fluids does that exclude all coolants/fluids (I'm totally new to watercooling).


No, there are coolants that will be labeled as nano-fluids. Mayhem and EK are two of the main companies that currently sell nano-fluid coolants. Just make sure that in the description of the coolant that it doesn't list it as being a nano-fluid. Also stay away from any of Mayhem's Aurora line of coolants because they are known to break down quickly, and clog blocks and pumps.


----------



## InsideJob

Bit the bullet and bought the H220X off the swiftech site








The 240X went out of stock by the time I got home from work








I can't wait... Next will be a komodo for my 290


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I'm thinking to order the h220x soon for my h440 case but I would like to expand to cool my MSI GTX 970 but since this is my first watercooling system I need help figuring out which parts I need to order:
> 
> - Blue coolant
> - New tubing for the entire loop - I want the blue coolant to be visible so something transparent maybe.
> - Radiator big enough for GTX 970 (120?). I will most likely buy a second one so if I can just buy a bigger rad that will accommodate both then I will do that.
> - Waterblock and backplate for the GPU - I want a good looking one
> - Fittings - no idea what to buy here.
> - Anything else I missed.
> 
> My other problem is I don't know which brand is good. I have only heard about EK and they seem popular. My budget is flexible, that said, I don't want to buy anything that has no added value (except for aesthetics). My current system is very silent and would like to keep it that way.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> We recommend staying away from any and all nano-fluids. These fluids are fine in most situations, but our pump does appear to have an issue with them. If you have any other questions then let me know.
Click to expand...

Just save your self the monies and get distilled and biocide

(Iandh dead water or pt nuke )


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Please do supply a link when it go live ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yes please do, and what website would this article be published on?


And the video is up - H240-X vs. H110i GT -


----------



## nersty

The H220-X just got delivered. Off the bat I am adding a GPU water block in. Is it recommended to change out all the tubes, or should I be OK just draining it and adding the expansion tubes in?


----------



## DoooX

When will 240X be available again to buy from Swiftech website ?


----------



## Phoebus

Hi all, I'm an H220 owner from way back in the 4k post # range. It's about 18 months later and I'm on my 2nd H220 (pump died on the first one after about 6 months), and about two months ago the pump in this one started to make more noise. The noise has increased to the point that I can't bear it any more -- I can hear it from two rooms away. I feel like another pump failure is immanent, but even if it isn't I just can't take the noise anymore!

My question is: is the H220-X pump more reliable? At this point I am looking for something that is going to last me a couple years without threatening failure. I've been working my way backward through this thread, but 11k posts is a lot to cover. Has the 220-X had any pump issues like the first gen 220 did? Or are there any other issues I should be aware of?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> Hi all, I'm an H220 owner from way back in the 4k post # range. It's about 18 months later and I'm on my 2nd H220 (pump died on the first one after about 6 months), and about two months ago the pump in this one started to make more noise. The noise has increased to the point that I can't bear it any more -- I can hear it from two rooms away. I feel like another pump failure is immanent, but even if it isn't I just can't take the noise anymore!
> 
> My question is: is the H220-X pump more reliable? At this point I am looking for something that is going to last me a couple years without threatening failure. I've been working my way backward through this thread, but 11k posts is a lot to cover. Has the 220-X had any pump issues like the first gen 220 did? Or are there any other issues I should be aware of?


i think ive only seen two or three people here with legiiimate pump problems... most of the pump noise complaints i see here are air in the loop/trapped in the pump...


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> Hi all, I'm an H220 owner from way back in the 4k post # range. It's about 18 months later and I'm on my 2nd H220 (pump died on the first one after about 6 months), and about two months ago the pump in this one started to make more noise. The noise has increased to the point that I can't bear it any more -- I can hear it from two rooms away. I feel like another pump failure is immanent, but even if it isn't I just can't take the noise anymore!
> 
> My question is: is the H220-X pump more reliable? At this point I am looking for something that is going to last me a couple years without threatening failure. I've been working my way backward through this thread, but 11k posts is a lot to cover. Has the 220-X had any pump issues like the first gen 220 did? Or are there any other issues I should be aware of?
> 
> 
> 
> i think ive only seen two or three people here with legiiimate pump problems... most of the pump noise complaints i see here are air in the loop/trapped in the pump...
Click to expand...

Do you recon the issues I had was just air bubbles trapped?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Its possible but i would wager since bram handled your rma he didnt feel that way so i trust his judgement on that one as he has alot more experience with these pumps than i do... but cant rule it out...grinding is not usually the sound trapped air makes unless the pump runs dry of course...


----------



## EarlZ

Corsair and Swiftech compared


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Its possible but i would wager since bram handled your rma he didnt feel that way so i trust his judgement on that one as he has alot more experience with these pumps than i do... but cant rule it out...grinding is not usually the sound trapped air makes unless the pump runs dry of course...


Yes, thats the common issue I get after about 6 months even if the rig is not moved or what so ever. Though I wish they can check the unit I sent back so I can at least know what really went wrong and we can learn from it.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair and Swiftech compared


You realize that was posted 6 posts above you.


----------



## zoom314

I can't use Biocide, why? Cause where I live our water comes from below out feet in the ground, 2 water wells, I don't want Biocide in the water, Distilled is not a problem though.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> I can't use Biocide, why? Cause where I live our water comes from below out feet in the ground, 2 water wells, I don't want Biocide in the water, Distilled is not a problem though.


This seems to be overplaying the effectiveness and effects of a biocide and what it does. The one or two drops of a copper sulfate or bzk used as a biocide in a loop would be even less detrimental to the ground water once diluted and drained through a septic system than a single handwashing with a typical antimicrobial soap these days, and not even anywhere near what you would be dumping into the groundwater from a sink full or dishwasher full of dishes or a load of clothes or having mopped the floor with any type of cleaning solution. Nowhere will you find evidence suggesting dumping a drop or two of copper sulfate diluted would be an unsafe practice that could contaminate groundwater or have any effect in any measurable way.

Edit:
I guess if someone is that phobic about it then a silver kill coil might be a better alternative, though the silver ions in the water from a piece of pure silver once drained would really be no more or less detrimental to the environment than any other common biocide in the diluted concentrations we use them in for watercooling purposes. Heck, some people consume even stronger concentrations of silver based on phony snake-oil sales claims of potential health benefits.


----------



## bishop161

You think I can get away with an h220-x + ex240mm rad to cool a CPU + GPU?

Or should I add a h140-x to the mix for some extra flow rate?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> You think I can get away with an h220-x + ex240mm rad to cool a CPU + GPU?
> 
> Or should I add a h140-x to the mix for some extra flow rate?


Been answered many times, the pump on the 220x is fine with an additional 240 rad and GPU block.


----------



## spin5000

Swiftech H320 w/ 6 Swiftech Helix fans (push/pull) owner here...

I've had some scary moments with my Swiftech H320. Sometimes the pump doesn't start. With my ASUS Sabertooth X79, I would get a nice warning on bootup saying "CPU fan error" or something, so I would always catch it quickly and know right-off the bat, however, with my ASRock X99X Killer board, I unfortunately don't get any CPU-fan-error warnings and I've only realized the non-started pump after entering Windows and hearing my fans all ramp up from my CPU getting dangerously hot due to the pump not running. I therefore now have to make sure to open-up HWMonitor upon entering windows every-single time I start my PC, or awake it from sleep, in order to check that the pump is running.

When does it happen?:
*The pump-not-starting/running issue only happens - and occasionally at that - when it's being attempted to start/turn-on from a stop (PC powered off or sleeping). The pump has never failed/stopped while in the middle of running,* regardless of RPM, amount of time running, etc. Once the pump is running, I know I can leave the computer on even for a week if I want to and the pump will still be running.

Seemingly odd "fixes":
There have been times when giving my case a bit of a shake upon initial power-up helped get the pump started, but not every time. Other times - and this just happened the last few times - the pump wouldn't start upon multiple boot-ups, but then it started the very first time after I turned-off the PSU's power switch, unplugged the PSU cable from the back of the CPU for 20 seconds, plugged back in, turned-on switch, and then powered-up the PC.

Config:
I have it all set-up the way Swiftech recommends. The PWN splitter connected directly to the PSU. The pump header to the splitter's #1 header. The splitter to the main CPU PWN fan header. All the other fans to the other headers on the splitter (1 fan per header). The fans have never had this issue - only the pump. Again, the issue has happened/happens with more than 1 type of motherboard.

When/Where did I purchase the Unit?:
Brand-new & in-store from NCIX Canada around 15 months ago.

Other Info:
- The cooler is only connected to the CPU, no other rads, no GPUs or other waterblocks or anything, just Cooler and CPU.
- My idle speed is either 35% or 40% (depending on my BIOS's custom fan profile) which equates to a pump-speed of around 1500 or 1600 RPM (35%) and 1879-1972 RPM (fluctuating) at 40%.
- The BIOS fan speeds make no difference to the issue, the issue has happened even with the BIOS's fan speed set to a constant 75%, 100%, etc.
- The issue can happen, both, if I leave my PC off for 2 or 3 days, and when powering-up the PC immediately after a shutdown.

Please help, Swiftech (and others)...


----------



## fisher6

Can anyone tell me how much value the h220x as in terms of costs vs quality. I'm a little bit unsure if I should buy it and expand from there or buy other cooling kits like the EK-KIT L360 and expand.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spin5000*
> 
> Swiftech H320 w/ 6 Swiftech Helix fans (push/pull) owner here...
> 
> I've had some scary moments with my Swiftech H320. Sometimes the pump doesn't start. With my ASUS Sabertooth X79, I would get a nice warning on bootup saying "CPU fan error" or something, so I would always catch it quickly and know right-off the bat, however, with my ASRock X99X Killer board, I unfortunately don't get any CPU-fan-error warnings and I've only realized the non-started pump after entering Windows and hearing my fans all ramp up from my CPU getting dangerously hot due to the pump not running. I therefore now have to make sure to open-up HWMonitor upon entering windows every-single time I start my PC, or awake it from sleep, in order to check that the pump is running.
> 
> When does it happen?:
> *The pump-not-starting/running issue only happens - and occasionally at that - when it's being attempted to start/turn-on from a stop (PC powered off or sleeping). The pump has never failed/stopped while in the middle of running,* regardless of RPM, amount of time running, etc. Once the pump is running, I know I can leave the computer on even for a week if I want to and the pump will still be running.
> 
> Seemingly odd "fixes":
> There have been times when giving my case a bit of a shake upon initial power-up helped get the pump started, but not every time. Other times - and this just happened the last few times - the pump wouldn't start upon multiple boot-ups, but then it started the very first time after I turned-off the PSU's power switch, unplugged the PSU cable from the back of the CPU for 20 seconds, plugged back in, turned-on switch, and then powered-up the PC.
> 
> Config:
> I have it all set-up the way Swiftech recommends. The PWN splitter connected directly to the PSU. The pump header to the splitter's #1 header. The splitter to the main CPU PWN fan header. All the other fans to the other headers on the splitter (1 fan per header). The fans have never had this issue - only the pump. Again, the issue has happened/happens with more than 1 type of motherboard.
> 
> When/Where did I purchase the Unit?:
> Brand-new & in-store from NCIX Canada around 15 months ago.
> 
> Other Info:
> - The cooler is only connected to the CPU, no other rads, no GPUs or other waterblocks or anything, just Cooler and CPU.
> - My idle speed is either 35% or 40% (depending on my BIOS's custom fan profile) which equates to a pump-speed of around 1500 or 1600 RPM (35%) and 1879-1972 RPM (fluctuating) at 40%.
> - The BIOS fan speeds make no difference to the issue, the issue has happened even with the BIOS's fan speed set to a constant 75%, 100%, etc.
> - The issue can happen, both, if I leave my PC off for 2 or 3 days, and when powering-up the PC immediately after a shutdown.
> 
> Please help, Swiftech (and others)...


We've seen this issue a few times now and from our own testing we've concluded that it has to be related to a start-up power issue. The reason for this conclusion is that every kit that has been returned with this issue we've been unable to duplicate it. Therefore, we can only conclude that it has to be related to the customer's system in some way and most likely a PSU issue. Have you tried running the kit off of a separate power supply to see if this resolves your issue?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how much value the h220x as in terms of costs vs quality. I'm a little bit unsure if I should buy it and expand from there or buy other cooling kits like the EK-KIT L360 and expand.


It's pretty much just an assembly of Swiftech's current flagship products. You can't assemble a loop of all the parts separate for the same price.


----------



## bishop161

This thread is really helpful.

Has anyone experimented with putting two swiftech products in one loop? I'm thinking about putting a h140-x and h220-x in the same loop.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> Here she is guys. I got everything all smashed in there and working for the most part


I guess it can be done as this guy did it


----------



## wes1099

I got my H220-X back today. I installed it and I am back to my nice and chilly water cooled temps. However, during shipping, the paint on the faceplate of the waterblock melted off and onto the colored plate underneath it. This resulted in a deformed looking swiftech logo... I might try and fix it myself with some black spraypaint and masking tape, or maybe I will contact swiftech again.

First pic is kinda blurry because I was in a hurry, took the pic with a cellphone camera, and didn't bother to check if the pic came out okay or not...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> I got my H220-X back today. I installed it and I am back to my nice and chilly water cooled temps. However, during shipping, the paint on the faceplate of the waterblock melted off and onto the colored plate underneath it. This resulted in a deformed looking swiftech logo... I might try and fix it myself with some black spraypaint and masking tape, or maybe I will contact swiftech again.
> 
> First pic is kinda blurry because I was in a hurry, took the pic with a cellphone camera, and didn't bother to check if the pic came out okay or not...


Just PM me about this. I can send you a replacement face plate. That's not a problem.


----------



## NIK1

I just ordered a MSI Z97 MPower max ac motherboard with a I7 4790k.This motherboard has built in VRM heatsink cooling. I wonder what would be the best config for my H240x loop.240x to cpu then into the vrm,or vrm first then into the cpu water block, or does it even matter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I just ordered a MSI Z97 MPower max ac motherboard with a I7 4790k.This motherboard has built in VRM heatsink cooling. I wonder what would be the best config for my H240x loop.240x to cpu then into the vrm,or vrm first then into the cpu water block, or does it even matter.


Makes no difference in terms of performance. It's all a matter of the easiest tube routing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> This thread is really helpful.
> 
> Has anyone experimented with putting two swiftech products in one loop? I'm thinking about putting a h140-x and h220-x in the same loop.


as long as they are facing the correct way there is no problem. your pumps now have redundancy that is all.

i run 4 pumps in my systems ( main systems ) and 2 in minor systems ( mitx )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I just ordered a MSI Z97 MPower max ac motherboard with a I7 4790k.This motherboard has built in VRM heatsink cooling. I wonder what would be the best config for my H240x loop.240x to cpu then into the vrm,or vrm first then into the cpu water block, or does it even matter.
> 
> 
> 
> Makes no difference in terms of performance. It's all a matter of the easiest tube routing.
Click to expand...

this in the vrm block direction shouldnt even matter.

be careful though some manufactures like to use AL and anodized AL for the waterblock....

not familiar with MSI though


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Its possible but i would wager since bram handled your rma he didnt feel that way so i trust his judgement on that one as he has alot more experience with these pumps than i do... but cant rule it out...grinding is not usually the sound trapped air makes unless the pump runs dry of course...


if you encounter yet another failed pump, ask them to send the h220x pump..i know bryan offered this to me and others. All their pumps are rated at 60k hours so to see them fail 6months or a year later is unfortunate


----------



## Phoebus

Hi all,

I'm an old H220 owner from way back in the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> Hi all, I'm an H220 owner from way back in the 4k post # range. It's about 18 months later and I'm on my 2nd H220 (pump died on the first one after about 6 months), and about two months ago the pump in this one started to make more noise. The noise has increased to the point that I can't bear it any more -- I can hear it from two rooms away. I feel like another pump failure is immanent, but even if it isn't I just can't take the noise anymore!
> 
> My question is: is the H220-X pump more reliable? At this point I am looking for something that is going to last me a couple years without threatening failure. I've been working my way backward through this thread, but 11k posts is a lot to cover. Has the 220-X had any pump issues like the first gen 220 did? Or are there any other issues I should be aware of?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i think ive only seen two or three people here with legiiimate pump problems... most of the pump noise complaints i see here are air in the loop/trapped in the pump...


Thanks for the reply. I think I'll give the H220-X a try. Although I've had issues with the last two pumps, I've been happy with Swiftech support, and that's important.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as long as they are facing the correct way there is no problem. your pumps now have redundancy that is all.
> 
> i run 4 pumps in my systems ( main systems ) and 2 in minor systems ( mitx )
> this in the vrm block direction shouldnt even matter.
> 
> *be careful though some manufactures like to use AL and anodized AL for the waterblock....*
> 
> not familiar with MSI though


Which is why the caps are still on the fittings on my Z97 MPower. MSI doesn't specify, and I am not willing to take that gamble.


----------



## ciarlatano

And the H220-X thumps the H100i GTX here -


----------



## jincuteguy

So long story short, I got my new H240-X yesterday and after installing it my temps were not so good compare to my Corsair H100i GTX which I bought last week.
But from most reviews and ppl who have bought the H240-X, it's so much better compare to all other AIO units out there on the market.

I was using the Tim that came with the H240-X. Do you guys think I should try a different tim? Like the Mascool Shin Etsu G751? I dont know if I should keep my H240-x or not. Still kinda disappointed with all the hype and i was really excited getting it today too.

I'm using Aida64 and OCCT for stress testing and RealTemp 370 for temperature monitoring.

My system specs:

i7 5820k @ 4.5ghz 1.265v
Asus X99-A board
16g DDR4
Asus Strix GTX 970
Windows 10 Tech Preview


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So long story short, I got my new H240-X yesterday and after installing it my temps were not so good compare to my Corsair H100i GTX which I bought last week.
> But from most reviews and ppl who have bought the H240-X, it's so much better compare to all other AIO units out there on the market.
> 
> I was using the Tim that came with the H240-X. Do you guys think I should try a different tim? Like the Mascool Shin Etsu G751? I dont know if I should keep my H240-x or not. Still kinda disappointed with all the hype and i was really excited getting it today too.
> 
> I'm using Aida64 and OCCT for stress testing and RealTemp 370 for temperature monitoring.
> 
> My system specs:
> 
> i7 5820k @ 4.5ghz 1.265v
> Asus X99-A board
> 16g DDR4
> Asus Strix GTX 970
> Windows 10 Tech Preview


What fans are you using for both radiators?


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> When will 240X be available again to buy from Swiftech website ?


Why no response ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> Why no response ?


We just had them and they won't be in stock again for a couple of weeks.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> What fans are you using for both radiators?


For the H240-X, I was using the fans that came with it which are those Helix fans I believed? I also put another 140mm fan (corsair SP140) on the Rad.
So in total I had 3 fans on the Radiator. The Swiftech Helix fans both running at max speed ~1800rpm, the Corsair SP140 run at ~1400rpm, and the pump is at max speed too ~3000rpm.

For the Corsair H100i GTX, I used the 2 SP120 that came with the cooler, and 2 more 120mm fans that I had laying around. So total of 4 in push / pull configuration.

I used the original TIM that came with the H240-X which is called Tim Mate 2, which I never heard of before.
I used the original Tim that was applied on the Corsair H100i GTX that came with it in the box.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> For the H240-X, I was using the fans that came with it which are those Helix fans I believed? I also put another 140mm fan (corsair SP140) on the Rad.
> So in total I had 3 fans on the Radiator. The Swiftech Helix fans both running at max speed ~1800rpm, the Corsair SP140 run at ~1400rpm, and the pump is at max speed too ~3000rpm.
> 
> For the Corsair H100i GTX, I used the 2 SP120 that came with the cooler.


Can you provide more information about the temperature difference that you were getting between these two kits?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> For the H240-X, I was using the fans that came with it which are those Helix fans I believed? I also put another 140mm fan (corsair SP140) on the Rad.
> So in total I had 3 fans on the Radiator. The Swiftech Helix fans both running at max speed ~1800rpm, the Corsair SP140 run at ~1400rpm, and the pump is at max speed too ~3000rpm.
> 
> For the Corsair H100i GTX, I used the 2 SP120 that came with the cooler, and 2 more 120mm fans that I had laying around. So total of 4 in push / pull configuration.
> 
> I used the original TIM that came with the H240-X which is called Tim Mate 2, which I never heard of before.
> I used the original Tim that was applied on the Corsair H100i GTX that came with it in the box.


first glance I'm thinking needs a remount but temperatures could confirm this and perhaps processor...speeds and voltages ran...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you provide more information about the temperature difference that you were getting between these two kits?


With H240-x i got around 70c , and Corsair H100i GTX I got around 65c. So about 5c difference. I already remount the H240-X like 3 times.

Also, which Tim should I get? The Shin-etsu X23 or G751? which one is better to use? better performance?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> With H240-x i got around 70c , and Corsair H100i GTX I got around 65c. So about 5c difference. I already remount the H240-X like 3 times.
> 
> Also, which Tim should I get? The Shin-etsu X23 or G751? which one is better to use? better performance?


I'm thinking that this is still a mounting issue. Since you had to change the mounting hardware to adapt it to socket 2011 are you sure that you used the right springs? The springs that come with the socket 2011 screws are stiffer than the ones used on the stock mounting screws. If you use the wrong ones then your performance will certainly suffer.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm thinking that this is still a mounting issue. Since you had to change the mounting hardware to adapt it to socket 2011 are you sure that you used the right springs? The springs that come with the socket 2011 screws are stiffer than the ones used on the stock mounting screws. If you use the wrong ones then your performance will certainly suffer.


Yes I use the springs and screws in the socket 2011 bag.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yes I use the springs and screws in the socket 2011 bag.


OK, then it's possible that we sent you the wrong springs with those screws. Can you check to see if they have the same amount of give to them that the springs on the stock mount had? If need be I can have a set of the stiffer springs sent to you to resolve this.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, then it's possible that we sent you the wrong springs with those screws. Can you check to see if they have the same amount of give to them that the springs on the stock mount had? If need be I can have a set of the stiffer springs sent to you to resolve this.


Uhm I dont know, I dont wanna take it out again. Can you just send me another set of 2011 spring and screws please? thank you . I PMed you my address.

Also, why don't you guys do like Corsair did? Their cooler installation is so much easier and more secure.
It took me a while to get rid of the original screws that came with the H240-X, and put on the ones for socket 2011. And then it's really hard to screw them on top of the cpu .


----------



## bigredishott

Has anyone had to refill there swiftech H220? I been getting noise from my computer for a little while now I thought it was a fan and payed it no mind. well it started to get louder and was bothering me. I opened the side of my case and investigated the noise was the pump. it sounds like the impeller is loose in there. I called swiftech the guy I spoke too told me they had a problem with evaporation. I would have never thought it's about 13 months old making noise for at least 3 months (lazy i know thought was a dirty fan or something) I was told to fill with distilled water and if it's still making noise to add a drop or 2 of dish soap. Would anyone here add dish soap to quiet there pump. I was also told to put the res facing the top. I had it facing down because it was a whole lot easier to install that way. I just wish he would have giving me an RMA# I have had the computer shut down since the call untill I can find distilled water in my hick town and find time to tear it all down to refill it.


----------



## jincuteguy

Also I have my H240-X fans in-take (fans pushing through RAd) in cool air from outside blowing through the Rad. Maybe that's why Im seeing higher temp compare to my Corsair H100i GTX? Cause I had my H100i GTX exhaust out (pushing through the Rad) the case.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> Has anyone had to refill there swiftech H220? I been getting noise from my computer for a little while now I thought it was a fan and payed it no mind. well it started to get louder and was bothering me. I opened the side of my case and investigated the noise was the pump. it sounds like the impeller is loose in there. I called swiftech the guy I spoke too told me they had a problem with evaporation. I would have never thought it's about 13 months old making noise for at least 3 months (lazy i know thought was a dirty fan or something) I was told to fill with distilled water and if it's still making noise to add a drop or 2 of dish soap. Would anyone here add dish soap to quiet there pump. I was also told to put the res facing the top. I had it facing down because it was a whole lot easier to install that way. I just wish he would have giving me an RMA# I have had the computer shut down since the call untill I can find distilled water in my hick town and find time to tear it all down to refill it.


Everything I told you was correct. Please let me know if this resolves your issue.


----------



## bigredishott

LOL wasn't expecting you to be on the forum. I will give it a shot with the water maybe this weekend if I have time. I am sure its going to take a while to do the bleeding and turning over the rad. Certainly not something I am looking forward to.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Also I have my H240-X fans in-take (fans pushing through RAd) in cool air from outside blowing through the Rad. Maybe that's why Im seeing higher temp compare to my Corsair H100i GTX? Cause I had my H100i GTX exhaust out (pushing through the Rad) the case.


I've gotten my H240-X down to about 50 degrees Celsius with 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans as in-take using an Intel i7 5820K (stock speed). Can only agree it must be a mounting issue you're having.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Also I have my H240-X fans in-take (fans pushing through RAd) in cool air from outside blowing through the Rad. Maybe that's why Im seeing higher temp compare to my Corsair H100i GTX? Cause I had my H100i GTX exhaust out (pushing through the Rad) the case.


What was your ambient temperature when you had the Corsair kit installed compared to what it is now? This also might be your issue since we've had some pretty large temperature swings here in So Cal.


----------



## jincuteguy

i dont know the ambient temp cause I dont have anything to measure with.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've gotten my H240-X down to about 50 degrees Celsius with 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans as in-take using an Intel i7 5820K (stock speed). Can only agree it must be a mounting issue you're having.


Yea Im hoping it should be a mounting issue. But I just don't see how I can mess it up. I mean it's just screwing 4 screws down to the 2011 sockets on the board.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

yes but alternating corners properly and screwing them equal amounts is key.. as is getting the right amount of tim.. im willing to bet when you take it off you either have too much or too little on...


----------



## jincuteguy

Do you think maybe I should get better fans? Maybe the Noctua NF-A14

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608048&cm_re=noctua_140mm-_-35-608-048-_-Product?

Or what are the high Static Pressure 140mm fans from Noctua that are for Radiator?


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you think maybe I should get better fans? Maybe the Noctua NF-A14
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608048&cm_re=noctua_140mm-_-35-608-048-_-Product?
> 
> Or what are the high Static Pressure 140mm fans from Noctua that are for Radiator?


Depends on the noise level you are looking for. Most Noctua fans have superb static pressure, but the one you have linked in particular is the industrial version which spins at 3000rpms compared to the retail which spins at 1500 rpms. Obviously the industrial version will be a lot louder then the retail version.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Depends on the noise level you are looking for. Most Noctua fans have superb static pressure, but the one you have linked in particular is the industrial version which spins at 3000rpms compared to the retail which spins at 1500 rpms. Obviously the industrial version will be a lot louder then the retail version.


Well yes but you can control them, can't you? And make them run at 1500 rpm? And if you want more performance, u can run at 3000rpm. But if I buy the 1500rpm ones then I can't run them higher if i want to right?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well yes but you can control them, can't you? And make them run at 1500 rpm? And if you want more performance, u can run at 3000rpm. But if I buy the 1500rpm ones then I can't run them higher if i want to right?


The PPC fans are quite a bit louder than the NF-A14 at like speeds. Also, you will likely see no measurable gain in performance switching to the NF-A14 from the Helix.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The PPC fans are quite a bit louder than the NF-A14 at like speeds. Also, you will likely see no measurable gain in performance switching to the NF-A14 from the Helix.


Why not? Don't ppl say the Noctua are the best fans out there?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why not? Don't ppl say the Noctua are the best fans out there?


Noctua fans are not the best out there. They are solid overall fans that work good for radiators or as case fans but aren't the best in either. They are more notable for their durability and build quality. The Helix fans that come with the H240x are already some of the best 140mm rad fans out there. You can get Yate Loons but they just spin much faster than the Helix fans and are also made of the cheapest materials out there.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Noctua fans are not the best out there. They are solid overall fans that work good for radiators or as case fans but aren't the best in either. They are more notable for their durability and build quality. The Helix fans that come with the H240x are already some of the best 140mm rad fans out there. You can get Yate Loons but they just spin much faster than the Helix fans and are also made of the cheapest materials out there.


So you said NOctua fans are not the best out there, then which fan is the best out there?
Also, do you think I should get the Shin-Etsu x23 Tim? or the Gelid GC Extreme?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So you said NOctua fans are not the best out there, then which fan is the best out there?


There is no "best fan". There are best noise-performance fans, best price-performance, best at max speed, etc. but you can't just classify any one fan as the best (even though some will claim the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 is the straight up best fan at 120mm).


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> There is no "best fan". There are best noise-performance fans, best price-performance, best at max speed, etc. but you can't just classify any one fan as the best (even though some will claim the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 is the straight up best fan at 120mm).


So which fan is best noise-performance ?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which fan is best noise-performance ?


Beating the included Helix's in that is probably pretty tough. You won't find any fan that definitely pulls ahead of them at 140mm. You will only find fans that spin faster and are noisier.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> Has anyone had to refill there swiftech H220? I been getting noise from my computer for a little while now I thought it was a fan and payed it no mind. well it started to get louder and was bothering me. I opened the side of my case and investigated the noise was the pump. it sounds like the impeller is loose in there. I called swiftech the guy I spoke too told me they had a problem with evaporation. I would have never thought it's about 13 months old making noise for at least 3 months (lazy i know thought was a dirty fan or something) I was told to fill with distilled water and if it's still making noise to add a drop or 2 of dish soap. Would anyone here add dish soap to quiet there pump. I was also told to put the res facing the top. I had it facing down because it was a whole lot easier to install that way. I just wish he would have giving me an RMA# I have had the computer shut down since the call untill I can find distilled water in my hick town and find time to tear it all down to refill it.


dish soap helps with many things
helps to remove air from loop slightly lubricates and many other things.

do you not have a king soopers ( kroger ), walmart, wall greens, cub foods, stop and shop, albercents. ect ect ect.k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> i dont know the ambient temp cause I dont have anything to measure with.


yea, this is key

again key to knowing ANYTHING about your pc cooling capability
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you think maybe I should get better fans? Maybe the Noctua NF-A14
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608048&cm_re=noctua_140mm-_-35-608-048-_-Product?
> 
> Or what are the high Static Pressure 140mm fans from Noctua that are for Radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the noise level you are looking for. Most Noctua fans have superb static pressure, but the one you have linked in particular is the industrial version which spins at 3000rpms compared to the retail which spins at 1500 rpms. Obviously the industrial version will be a lot louder then the retail version.
Click to expand...

people need to stop looking for CFM or Static pressure
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why not? Don't ppl say the Noctua are the best fans out there?
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua fans are not the best out there. They are solid overall fans that work good for radiators or as case fans but aren't the best in either. They are more notable for their durability and build quality. The Helix fans that come with the H240x are already some of the best 140mm rad fans out there. You can get Yate Loons but they just spin much faster than the Helix fans and are also made of the cheapest materials out there.
Click to expand...

at present 120mm fans crush ( assuming you get the right ones ) 140mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> There is no "best fan". There are best noise-performance fans, best price-performance, best at max speed, etc. but you can't just classify any one fan as the best (even though some will claim the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 is the straight up best fan at 120mm).
> 
> 
> 
> So which fan is best noise-performance ?
Click to expand...

gentle typhoons

http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> at present 120mm fans crush ( assuming you get the right ones ) 140mm


And 140mm rads have more surface space so it more than evens out.
Quote:


> gentle typhoons
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html


120mm only.


----------



## Mega Man

no, presuming good fans, it does not even out, when you take a 140mm rad and put a 120mm fan on it, it gets even farther

( assuming good rad fans )

i am sick of people trying to push 140mm fans, bigger fans are not necessarily better


----------



## nado4ilhas

What better way to install this cooler, so like the image?

Or playing air out?


----------



## spin5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We've seen this issue a few times now and from our own testing we've concluded that it has to be related to a start-up power issue. The reason for this conclusion is that every kit that has been returned with this issue we've been unable to duplicate it. Therefore, we can only conclude that it has to be related to the customer's system in some way and most likely a PSU issue. Have you tried running the kit off of a separate power supply to see if this resolves your issue?


Thanks for the reply.

*A.* The cooler did the same thing with the Corsair TX950. Actually, that's the reason why I upgraded to the Antec HCP-1200 - because I thought my PSU might not have had enough juice to run an overclocked/overvolted Ivy-E (had a 4930k back then) plus 3x (Tri-fire) overclocked and overvolted HD 6950s. It only happened once or twice with that PSU as I got the Antec one very quickly after.

It happened today. I reawakened my PC from sleep (sleeping for around 9-12 hours) and I had to open up HWMonitor (as usual) to make sure the pump was running and it was reported 0 RPM and my cpu temps were rising. I then rocked my PC and gave it some smacks on the side cover and that got the pump started and running. I then woke up the PC again after dinner (slept for around 2-3 hours) but this time the pump started just fine with no assistance from me









I am skeptical to it being a PSU issue especially because of how the pump starts running after I give the side a bit of smack (sometimes), or the PC a bit of a shake/rock (sometimes).

*B.* It also ticks really loudly when running anywhere between 2200-ish RPM to max RPM (3000). It's so loud that I can hear it from my washroom, but this doesn't worry me as I'm guessing it's just air in the system, so I could care less about it being loud as long as nothing is physical getting affected by it and as long as it doesn't hamper performance. I already added 2-3 drops of liquid soap as you guys advised me to do around 9-12 months ago, but ever since I took the block off my 4930k and mounted it on my 5930k (along with new motherboard and RAM, obviously) it got really loud again. I guess replacing the board, RAM, and CPU and the moving of the case around and placing it sideways (not vertically) on the table to work on somehow can allow air into the system???.....Is it ok to add 2-3 more drops of dish-soap even though I've added 3 drops already about a year ago?

*C.* I heard that the Swiftech H320 has the "newer", re-designed H220 pump. However, although improved over the first iteration H220 pump, I'm guessing it's still not as good/robust as the new H220X/H240X pump. If so, would I possibly be able to get the H220X/H240X pump version, because I have a feeling this is a pump issue not a PSU issue...What about all those really nice pumps and blocks on your site? What about that magnetic model of yours that's been out for around 10 years that's supposed to be SUPER reliable??


----------



## EarlZ

The loud ticking maybe air but I honestly think its something else. IMO we should not expected to do any 'fixes' on these kits as they are sold as maintenance free for X years. I suggest you return the H320 and get an H220X replacement unless you really need the added radiator size on the H320. I also had the H220x pump on my H220 and it worked fine for 6 months, finally had the entire kit replaced.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as long as they are facing the correct way there is no problem. your pumps now have redundancy that is all.
> 
> i run 4 pumps in my systems ( main systems ) and 2 in minor systems ( mitx )
> this in the vrm block direction shouldnt even matter.
> 
> *be careful though some manufactures like to use AL and anodized AL for the waterblock....*
> 
> not familiar with MSI though
> 
> 
> 
> Which is why the caps are still on the fittings on my Z97 MPower. MSI doesn't specify, and I am not willing to take that gamble.
Click to expand...

Did you ask them? They will probably tell you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> 
> 
> What better way to install this cooler, so like the image?
> 
> Or playing air out?


Generally always intake is better then exhaust. But it does depend on your set up. So you may have to try both


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as long as they are facing the correct way there is no problem. your pumps now have redundancy that is all.
> 
> i run 4 pumps in my systems ( main systems ) and 2 in minor systems ( mitx )
> this in the vrm block direction shouldnt even matter.
> 
> *be careful though some manufactures like to use AL and anodized AL for the waterblock....*
> 
> not familiar with MSI though
> 
> 
> 
> Which is why the caps are still on the fittings on my Z97 MPower. MSI doesn't specify, and I am not willing to take that gamble.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I had emailed MSI support about that late last year when I was considering buying that board and they said the heatpipe that connects the heatsinks which doubles as a waterchannel is 8mm (I.D.? / O.D.?) nickel plated copper. I noticed at the time there were a few reviews of the board out that were repeating that same claim. I passed on getting it though so, I dunno.


----------



## Mega Man

Ha ha I just edited it to mention this.

As I forgot to the first time ( hate posting on mobile)


----------



## jincuteguy

So im trying to get a new TIM for my H240-X. Which one would you guys recommend? Gelid GC Extreme or Shin-Etsu X23?


----------



## Mega Man

One of the top tim.

Don't let people fool you with the exception of clu/clp

There is not a big diff in top tims


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So im trying to get a new TIM for my H240-X. Which one would you guys recommend? Gelid GC Extreme or Shin-Etsu X23?


The GC Extreme is far easier to work with and gives you a greater chance of having a good spread without repeated mountings. Either way, you are talking about a difference that would likely be measured in tenths of a degree.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, I had emailed MSI support about that late last year when I was considering buying that board and they said the heatpipe that connects the heatsinks which doubles as a waterchannel is 8mm (I.D.? / O.D.?) nickel plated copper. I noticed at the time there were a few reviews of the board out that were repeating that same claim. I passed on getting it though so, I dunno.


I got the same answer - but the way it was answered and further questions and answers didn't make me 100% secure. I can't confirm or deny, but even 95% comfortablle wasn't going for it.


----------



## DoooX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We just had them and they won't be in stock again for a couple of weeks.


Thank you! Is there a way to get an update to my email when they get in stock again ?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The GC Extreme is far easier to work with and gives you a greater chance of having a good spread without repeated mountings. Either way, you are talking about a difference that would likely be measured in tenths of a degree.
> I got the same answer - but the way it was answered and further questions and answers didn't make me 100% secure. I can't confirm or deny, but even 95% comfortablle wasn't going for it.


So which Tim would you use? Gelid GC extreme or Shin etsu ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which Tim would you use? Gelid GC extreme or Shin etsu ?


The GC Extreme is far easier to work with and gives you a greater chance of having a good spread without repeated mountings.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spin5000*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> *A.* The cooler did the same thing with the Corsair TX950. Actually, that's the reason why I upgraded to the Antec HCP-1200 - because I thought my PSU might not have had enough juice to run an overclocked/overvolted Ivy-E (had a 4930k back then) plus 3x (Tri-fire) overclocked and overvolted HD 6950s. It only happened once or twice with that PSU as I got the Antec one very quickly after.
> 
> It happened today. I reawakened my PC from sleep (sleeping for around 9-12 hours) and I had to open up HWMonitor (as usual) to make sure the pump was running and it was reported 0 RPM and my cpu temps were rising. I then rocked my PC and gave it some smacks on the side cover and that got the pump started and running. I then woke up the PC again after dinner (slept for around 2-3 hours) but this time the pump started just fine with no assistance from me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am skeptical to it being a PSU issue especially because of how the pump starts running after I give the side a bit of smack (sometimes), or the PC a bit of a shake/rock (sometimes).
> 
> *B.* It also ticks really loudly when running anywhere between 2200-ish RPM to max RPM (3000). It's so loud that I can hear it from my washroom, but this doesn't worry me as I'm guessing it's just air in the system, so I could care less about it being loud as long as nothing is physical getting affected by it and as long as it doesn't hamper performance. I already added 2-3 drops of liquid soap as you guys advised me to do around 9-12 months ago, but ever since I took the block off my 4930k and mounted it on my 5930k (along with new motherboard and RAM, obviously) it got really loud again. I guess replacing the board, RAM, and CPU and the moving of the case around and placing it sideways (not vertically) on the table to work on somehow can allow air into the system???.....Is it ok to add 2-3 more drops of dish-soap even though I've added 3 drops already about a year ago?
> 
> *C.* I heard that the Swiftech H320 has the "newer", re-designed H220 pump. However, although improved over the first iteration H220 pump, I'm guessing it's still not as good/robust as the new H220X/H240X pump. If so, would I possibly be able to get the H220X/H240X pump version, because I have a feeling this is a pump issue not a PSU issue...What about all those really nice pumps and blocks on your site? What about that magnetic model of yours that's been out for around 10 years that's supposed to be SUPER reliable??


I sent you a PM.


----------



## hypespazm

So I expanded my loop and added a secondary RES that is lower than my pump res and what not but I am having the hardest times getting all the air bubbles out.. I mean I tried my hardest. but its not filled to the max... idk I could be paranoid though but I also added another RAD so I have 2. is it ok if it makes like a fishtank noise while at full speed.. new to the water loops


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> So I expanded my loop and added a secondary RES that is lower than my pump res and what not but I am having the hardest times getting all the air bubbles out.. I mean I tried my hardest. but its not filled to the max... idk I could be paranoid though but I also added another RAD so I have 2. is it ok if it makes like a fishtank noise while at full speed.. new to the water loops


It can take several days to bleed all of the air out of an expanded kit. Is this an X kit or one of the older kits?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The GC Extreme is far easier to work with and gives you a greater chance of having a good spread without repeated mountings.


What about the EK Indigo Extreme stuff? My local Fry's store carry them for socket 2011-v3 for X99 board. Im tempt to get some and try them. What do you guys think? I never heard of them before. Are they good for cpu coolers?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It can take several days to bleed all of the air out of an expanded kit. Is this an X kit or one of the older kits?


for reference it's been five days since I refilled mine and I'm having to top off after each run (I run the pc for 4 to 8 hours reach night)...I also spent about two hours getting air out initially the vertical mounting seems harder to bleed to me...fishtank noise is usually little bubbles in the impeller area of the pump or a decent sized air pocket elsewhere that is causing water turbulence...my money is on bubbles in the impeller they seem to make the most noise


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What about the EK Indigo Extreme stuff? My local Fry's store carry them for socket 2011-v3 for X99 board. Im tempt to get some and try them. What do you guys think? I never heard of them before. Are they good for cpu coolers?


Gather your thoughts a bit on what you are deciding between. If you get opinions, then keep adding items to the mix, many will be less likely to keep answering while you go through every TIM available on the market asking if it's better than the last one you asked about.

Personally, I use Noctua NT-H1 for all of my testing. In my own loop, I use the NT-H1 or GC Extreme interchangeably depending on which one happens to be easier to reach at that moment. The higher end TIMs are literally that close in performance that I will grab whichever one is there.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What about the EK Indigo Extreme stuff? My local Fry's store carry them for socket 2011-v3 for X99 board. Im tempt to get some and try them. What do you guys think? I never heard of them before. Are they good for cpu coolers?


That's possibly the hardest TIM in terms of ease of installation, I don't recommend it for even intermediate builders.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Gather your thoughts a bit on what you are deciding between. If you get opinions, then keep adding items to the mix, many will be less likely to keep answering while you go through every TIM available on the market asking if it's better than the last one you asked about.
> 
> Personally, I use Noctua NT-H1 for all of my testing. In my own loop, I use the NT-H1 or GC Extreme interchangeably depending on which one happens to be easier to reach at that moment. The higher end TIMs are literally that close in performance that I will grab whichever one is there.


this...I still use mx4 from time to time just because I bought a huge tube of it







Still holds it's own and is cheap...I also have antec diamond 7, tim mate 2, and phanteks paste laying in a drawer on the same coolers ive seen at most 3c difference...You can achieve that in one cycle of an ac system...(slight ambient change)...the mx4 is way easier to work with and in testing ive done and the more extensive testing ive read ciar is 100 percent correct...I have been wanting to try that cool lab pad fit awhile just haven't bit the bullet yet


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this...I still use mx4 from time to time just because I bought a huge tube of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still holds it's own and is cheap...I also have antec diamond 7, tim mate 2, and phanteks paste laying in a drawer on the same coolers ive seen at most 3c difference...You can achieve that in one cycle of an ac system...(slight ambient change)...the mx4 is way easier to work with and in testing ive done and the more extensive testing ive read ciar is 100 percent correct...I have been wanting to try that cool lab pad fit awhile just haven't bit the bullet yet


What's cool lab pad fit?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What's cool lab pad fit?


A CPU or GPU.....

It is 38x38mm, you cut it to fit.

Are you ready to take a dive into liquid metal? It entails grinding and/or polishing your processor and block every time you have to separate them before you can put them back together. Is teh 2-3 degrees difference worth it to you?


----------



## jincuteguy

So with all readings and gathering infos, Im kinda wanna go custom cooling loop now. Tired of using AIO coolers.

Thinking about getting

EK Supreme Evo block
Black Ice 360 GTX Rad
D5 Pump / Res combo
Bitspower compress fittings
1/2 ID - 3/4 OD Tubing (might go for Acrylic or Pg tubing)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A CPU or GPU.....
> 
> It is 38x38mm, you cut it to fit.
> 
> Are you ready to take a dive into liquid metal? It entails grinding and/or polishing your processor and block every time you have to separate them before you can put them back together. Is teh 2-3 degrees difference worth it to you?


the pad is supposed to stay intact I thought to remove the mess and oe with the liquid metal...maybe I read it wrong lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the pad is supposed to stay intact I thought to remove the mess and oe with the liquid metal...maybe I read it wrong lol


My mistake, I was reading the liquid manual. The pad manual says it should flake off, but may require a metal grinding pad on stubborn areas.


----------



## Mega Man

it also hase to be ( going from memory ) heated to 90c for a set time then left too cool, risking damaging your cpu


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It can take several days to bleed all of the air out of an expanded kit. Is this an X kit or one of the older kits?


it is infact the H240X I believe the problem is how the Reservoir is located. I added a second one.. but i didnt realize it wouldnt bleed if it was underneath the pump... any suggestions?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> it is infact the H240X I believe the problem is how the Reservoir is located. I added a second one.. but i didnt realize it wouldnt bleed if it was underneath the pump... any suggestions?


If you can't move the second reservoir above the H240-X, it's kinda pointless. You're not really going to have an easier time getting air out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Um, it doesn't matter where a reservoir is located in a loop. It can be the lowest point in a loop and it will still trap air bubbles and let you fill and bleed exactly the same as if it was at the top of a loop. It does not matter at all if it's below or above a pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Although in the case of the h2x0/hx20
You are correct. In loops without a built in res you generally want the res higher then the pump. With few exceptions and right before the pump.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> If you can't move the second reservoir above the H240-X, it's kinda pointless. You're not really going to have an easier time getting air out.


its not too easy to fit the h240x on its side on a case though.. I mean I could do it but it wouldnt be aesthetically pleasing.. I have the phanteks enthoo luxe


----------



## jam71

Hello everyone, I am 'to buy a used H220 and the person who is' selling says the Swiftech has changed the pump warranty with that of h220x ie the MCP30, this thing is possible?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hello everyone, I am 'to buy a used H220 and the person who is' selling says the Swiftech has changed the pump warranty with that of h220x ie the MCP30, this thing is possible?


H220 still carry the same 3 year warranty, but I know that the later batch of H220 was equip with the new impeller for the pump. You could change the pump with their newly MCP50X if u want.


----------



## twitchyzero

Any reason why 240-X runs just a wee bit louder than 220-X? Shouldn't it be quieter with larger fans? Difference is insig to most but just curious.

Any performance comparisons of 220-X vs 240-X once expanded with a GPU? Hitech Legion suggests GPU + CPU is actually do-able without needing additional rad? Anyone's setup confirms this? is this suggested at stock levels, or moderate OC levels, or max OC levels but not full load on both (most gaming scenarios) or full load max OC on both CPU + GPU (benching)?

Is it possible to fill the 140/220/240X without removing it from the case? I'm guessing not if it's in the default horizontal position?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> In speedfan, PWM1 which seems to corspond to the MCP30 pump seems to max out at around 2750rpm even though I set it to allow 100% and CPU is at full load....I know fans are usually +/- 10% so is it normal for pump not being able to hit 100%? I wanna make sure there's no leaks running 3000rpm since seeing the leaky corrosive dripping few days ago.
> 
> Any reason why 240-X runs just a wee bit louder than 220-X? Shouldn't it be quieter with larger fans? Difference is insig to most but just curious.
> 
> Any performance comparisons of 220-X vs 240-X once expanded with a GPU? Hitech Legion suggests GPU + CPU is actually do-able without needing additional rad? Anyone's setup confirms this? is this suggested at stock levels, or moderate OC levels, or max OC levels but not full load on both (most gaming scenarios) or full load max OC on both CPU + GPU (benching)?
> 
> *Is it possible to fill the 140/220/240X without removing it from the case? I'm guessing not if it's in the default horizontal position?*


Yes it's possible, you can lay the case down and fill from the bleed screw.


----------



## twitchyzero

OK I was able to run pump at full speed (not from BIOS or speedfan but rather ET6)

How do I tell how fast the Helix fans are spinning? It's set up as per the instructions (helix fans and pump plugged into the pwm splitter (pump @ Ch1); splitter plugged into mobo CPU header).

Everywhere I check I only see the pump being reported


----------



## guyinthecorner1

Would high profile ram like Corsair Vengeance get in the way of the reservoir?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Yes it's possible, you can lay the case down and fill from the bleed screw.


through the bleed screw? My god would that take awhile....do you mean the fill port?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> through the bleed screw? My god would that take awhile....do you mean the fill port?


He means the fill port. Lol... it'd take days to fill just using the bleed hole.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> He means the fill port. Lol... it'd take days to fill just using the bleed hole.


I found a syringe with an angle tip originally used to cleanse dental wounds...works great for the bleed screw hole for pesky air bubbles....window is getting replaced so finally moved the bleed screw and indeed the cracking is ask around the bleed screw...oddly enough I had never moved the bleed screw and the kit never went below 60f


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> He means the fill port. Lol... it'd take days to fill just using the bleed hole.


My apology as I should have explained myself better. I actually used the fill port first, then to make sure that everything is filled I used the bleed screw to finish it off.

Before using the bleed screw:



After:


----------



## bigredishott

BramSLI1 I bought a gallon of distilled water as advised. Brought my computer upstairs to preform the surgery, I opened the res fill hole and was completely full. Now what is the next step, RMA?
There is no kinks in the line or anything (see pic) and it's just over a year old and makes terrible racket. I don't think I should have to put dish detergent in to quiet the pump. That feel like it would be kicking the can down the road. Its been full of water I feel as the pump is defective. I can get an audio clip of the sound it you wish. I think the impeller may loose or off and being knocked around by the motor. Thanks and yes I had the rad higher than the pump when I peeked inside familiar with gravity. LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Everything I told you was correct. Please let me know if this resolves your issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> Has anyone had to refill there swiftech H220? I been getting noise from my computer for a little while now I thought it was a fan and payed it no mind. well it started to get louder and was bothering me. I opened the side of my case and investigated the noise was the pump. it sounds like the impeller is loose in there. I called swiftech the guy I spoke too told me they had a problem with evaporation. I would have never thought it's about 13 months old making noise for at least 3 months (lazy i know thought was a dirty fan or something) I was told to fill with distilled water and if it's still making noise to add a drop or 2 of dish soap. Would anyone here add dish soap to quiet there pump. I was also told to put the res facing the top. I had it facing down because it was a whole lot easier to install that way. I just wish he would have giving me an RMA# I have had the computer shut down since the call untill I can find distilled water in my hick town and find time to tear it all down to refill it.


----------



## BenJaminJr

My 220x


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*


be prepared for the consequences of an inverted reservoir without adding a T-line or frequent top-ups...either way it can only hurt the pump's lifespan.


----------



## bigredishott

I turned it over today when I was checking the water levels. The screws were not quite long enough and had to take the rubber corners off the fans.


----------



## bigredishott

Duke976 is your PSU in the front of your computer? If so where does your power cord connect to your PC? Is there something I am not seeing?


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> Duke976 is your PSU in the front of your computer? If so where does your power cord connect to your PC? Is there something I am not seeing?


Yes, I believe Duke976 has the psu on the other side of that divider in the rear of the case, since that case will support 2 psus in the rear.


----------



## ivoryg37

Anyone know any clever way to get the swiftech logo to glow purple? I was considering putting a thin sheet of translucent purple over the white or expo the white backplate


----------



## Dudewitbow

when in doubt, yes use translucent vinyl sheet of your color choice.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Anyone know any clever way to get the swiftech logo to glow purple? I was considering putting a thin sheet of translucent purple over the white or expo the white backplate


PerformancePCs sells the Swiftech Apogee waterblock with all sorts of custom designs any color you want. You might try contacting PPCs and see if they will sell just a colored insert separately if that's all you want.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Does anyone know if the G1/4 adapter has any affect on the flow due to the size difference? Looking at the barb, it looks like adding the adapter and changing the fitting would increase the diameter in that spot. I'm just wondering if the size difference is so minimal that it really wouldn't change anything accept ascetics?


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> PerformancePCs sells the Swiftech Apogee waterblock with all sorts of custom designs any color you want. You might try contacting PPCs and see if they will sell just a colored insert separately if that's all you want.


Thats really cool. Im going to message them and ask them how much the ASUS rog one is. I need that in my PC.


----------



## nersty

Build complete:



H220-X
EK-Block
Alphacool Monsta 120mm x 80mm

Missing one 20mm thick 120mm exhaust fan for the h220-x as it was DAO (Rosewill Blackhawk doesn't fit normal 26mm thick ones with the radiator).

Temps: Idle/Load
CPU: 25C/48C
GPU: 25C/39C

It was a bit of a pain to bleed but otherwise it went well.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G1/4 adapter has any affect on the flow due to the size difference? Looking at the barb, it looks like adding the adapter and changing the fitting would increase the diameter in that spot. I'm just wondering if the size difference is so minimal that it really wouldn't change anything accept ascetics?


I don't have a flow meter installed to measure the difference but based on visual movement of my coolant I believe there is a small improvement in flow. The factory fittings inside diameter is considerably smaller than aftermarket fittings.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Hi guys, can anybody comment on the Swiftech X220's cooling capabilities when adding something like an R9 290 into the loop?
Can I expect decent temps and quiet operation at stock clocks? How about a mild overclock?
I also have 2 AP-15 fans that should be here soon, looking forward to seeing if they make any difference.

Thanks for reading, looking forward to any help


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Hi guys, can anybody comment on the Swiftech X220's cooling capabilities when adding something like an R9 290 into the loop?
> Can I expect decent temps and quiet operation at stock clocks? How about a mild overclock?
> I also have 2 AP-15 fans that should be here soon, looking forward to seeing if they make any difference.
> 
> Thanks for reading, looking forward to any help


Your ambient temperatures will play the most part in whether or not this will work for you. If you're already starting from high ambient temperatures then your cooling performance will suffer. It also depends on what you feel comfortable with. Asking for one person's opinion on this isn't going to help much because their case, ambient temperature, and system configuration could be quite different from yours.

To add a card like that to the loop I would generally suggest adding an additional single fan radiator. I hope this helps to answer your question.


----------



## jincuteguy

What is the cheapest thermometer you can buy but has accurate measurement for ambient temperature like room temperature?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I got my Titan X today and went to put it under water by expanding my H240x. Got everything put together and had a really nice and clean looking loop. Went to leak test and flipped the switch and my pump suddenly start spewing liquid out of it between the outlet port and that little tiny gap right next to it right after you turn it on, then it just starts constantly dripping. I did absolutely nothing to the pump/res except change the tubing and yet this happened. Spent 3 hours trying to fix it to no avail.

Now it looks like I can't even put my H240x back to stock and just use the Titan X on air.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What is the cheapest thermometer you can buy but has accurate measurement for ambient temperature like room temperature?


Try finding something like this http://www.rei.com/product/889924/oregon-scientific-indoor-and-outdoor-thermometer-atomic-clock-2014-closeout?cm_mmc=cse_PLA-_-pla-_-8899240001&mr:trackingCode=F6C564BE-F4D8-E411-8F84-BC305BF82162&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=74537634160&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=70383969280&msid=NAUcwoDB_dc|pcrid|74537634160|. Most reviewers use thermometers like these and they work quite well. We used one at my last job with Tech of Tomorrow.


----------



## VSG

That's a broken link but has enough info to find the actual item being referred to: http://www.rei.com/product/889924/oregon-scientific-indoor-and-outdoor-thermometer-atomic-clock-2014-closeout


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I got my Titan X today and went to put it under water by expanding my H240x. Got everything put together and had a really nice and clean looking loop. Went to leak test and flipped the switch and my pump suddenly start spewing liquid out of it between the outlet port and that little tiny gap right next to it right after you turn it on, then it just starts constantly dripping. I did absolutely nothing to the pump/res except change the tubing and yet this happened. Spent 3 hours trying to fix it to no avail.
> 
> Now it looks like I can't even put my H240x back to stock and just use the Titan X on air.


Can you send me a picture of where it's leaking from? It could just be that you pinched an o-ring.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Hi everyone my pc suddendly shutted down, and then i checked in the bios the cpu is overheating. So what happened with the watercooler? And now i dont see the blue led from the cpu socket


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Your ambient temperatures will play the most part in whether or not this will work for you. If you're already starting from high ambient temperatures then your cooling performance will suffer. It also depends on what you feel comfortable with. Asking for one person's opinion on this isn't going to help much because their case, ambient temperature, and system configuration could be quite different from yours.
> 
> To add a card like that to the loop I would generally suggest adding an additional single fan radiator. I hope this helps to answer your question.


Why would high ambient temps make the cooling performance suffer? Is this in comparison to anything or is just a general comment that high ambients still produce high temps either way?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why would high ambient temps make the cooling performance suffer? Is this in comparison to anything or is just a general comment that high ambients still produce high temps either way?


the higher the ambient the heating up starts at a higher point so 20c over ambient in 25 = 45 but 35c plus 20 = 55 means 10c less headroom for an overclock...higher ambient also can make temps rise faster...ask @mus1mus how big the difference can be


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the higher the ambient the heating up starts at a higher point so 20c over ambient in 25 = 45 but 35c plus 20 = 55 means 10c less headroom for an overclock...higher ambient also can make temps rise faster...ask @mus1mus how big the difference can be


Interesting. I'm not sure I get what you mean though. In your example scenarios, which is the ambient? 25 and 35, I'm assuming? Can you expound more on this?

Thanks.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why would high ambient temps make the cooling performance suffer? Is this in comparison to anything or is just a general comment that high ambients still produce high temps either way?


I cant believe this needs explanation.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> I cant believe this needs explanation.


Believe it, why wouldn't it? It's of course natural that higher ambient temps will produce higher temperature. What I'm asking about are the unforeseen effects of higher ambient temps to the cooling performance of any cooling system, just like the point mfknjadagr8 is making above.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Believe it, why wouldn't it? It's of course natural that higher ambient temps will produce higher temperature. What I'm asking about are the unforeseen effects of higher ambient temps to the cooling performance of any cooling system, just like the point mfknjadagr8 is making above.


It's pretty simple really. Being that no conventional cooling system (not LN2 or some thermo-electrical system) can get below ambient, ambient will therefore always have an impact on cooling performance. There isn't any way around this. The higher your ambient temperature the worse your idle and load temperatures are going to be.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What I'm asking about are the unforeseen effects of higher ambient temps to the cooling performance of any cooling system...


This comment is sig worthy.

Additional Comment: I re-read previous posts to make sure I didn't miss something or am misunderstanding and concluded you have to be trolling.


----------



## Mega Man

this is why swiftech ( mostly ) uses core to air temps ( rather then just core temp ) in reviews / stats it posts

IE coretemp =80 room temp 72

core to air temp would be 8 ( f )


----------



## ssgtnubb

Well here to say sold my 240x, took a step down to 220x to give me some more room in my 540. Curious to see what difference's I'll see. I did happen to order (3) EKWB Furious Vardar so it'll be interesting lol.


----------



## EarlZ

From my own understanding the delta temps between idle and fully loaded will remain similar ( maybe give or take 1c ) regardless if the ambient is 15c or 30c

Example:

Everything else is constant

Room1: 15c ambient, 16c idle, 30c load = 14c delta
Room 2: 30c ambient, 31c idle 45c load = 14c delta

Higher ambient makes things run hotter but does not really equate to a diminished cooling capacity since the delta is the same.

This is my understanding, I could be wrong though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Interesting. I'm not sure I get what you mean though. In your example scenarios, which is the ambient? 25 and 35, I'm assuming? Can you expound more on this?
> 
> Thanks.


as bram said without some form of extreme means your coolant can't go below ambient temps...that means it will always start at ambient temp (or higher) before it begins to move heat away from your components....therefore your ambient dictates the temperature of the coolant before any heat is applied meaning less room to overclock before you reach thermal limits...(higher ambient = harder to cool) there are a lot of other variables applied afterwards to get your final idle/load temps but that's basic overview...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's pretty simple really. Being that no conventional cooling system (not LN2 or some thermo-electrical system) can get below ambient, ambient will therefore always have an impact on cooling performance. There isn't any way around this. The higher your ambient temperature the worse your idle and load temperatures are going to be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> From my own understanding the delta temps between idle and fully loaded will remain similar ( maybe give or take 1c ) regardless if the ambient is 15c or 30c
> 
> Example:
> 
> Everything else is constant
> 
> Room1: 15c ambient, 16c idle, 30c load = 14c delta
> Room 2: 30c ambient, 31c idle 45c load = 14c delta
> 
> Higher ambient makes things run hotter but does not really equate to a diminished cooling capacity since the delta is the same.
> 
> This is my understanding, I could be wrong though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> as bram said without some form of extreme means your coolant can't go below ambient temps...that means it will always start at ambient temp (or higher) before it begins to move heat away from your components....therefore your ambient dictates the temperature of the coolant before any heat is applied meaning less room to overclock before you reach thermal limits...(higher ambient = harder to cool) there are a lot of other variables applied afterwards to get your final idle/load temps but that's basic overview...


Ok. Yeah, that has been always my understanding. It's just how thermodynamics go, not everything is linearly proportional.

Thanks for the explanations.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Yeah, that has been always my understanding. It's just how thermodynamics go, not everything is linearly proportional.
> 
> Thanks for the explanations.


this is why he asked for ambient temps the load temps might be good for say 30c but not so good for 20c...most people also ask for voltages and clocks if overclocking...gives an idea what's amiss if temps are high


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> From my own understanding the delta temps between idle and fully loaded will remain similar ( maybe give or take 1c ) regardless if the ambient is 15c or 30c
> 
> Example:
> 
> Everything else is constant
> 
> Room1: 15c ambient, 16c idle, 30c load = 14c delta
> Room 2: 30c ambient, 31c idle 45c load = 14c delta
> 
> Higher ambient makes things run hotter but does not really equate to a diminished cooling capacity since the delta is the same.
> 
> This is my understanding, I could be wrong though.


Yes, that's exactly right. What I was simply stating is that if your ambient temperature is already high then you're working from a disadvantage. The reverse is true if you're starting from a rather low ambient temperature. This is important because thermal limits remain the same for the components being cooled and that's what I was trying to get at. I'm sorry if I confused anyone.


----------



## chartiet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Yeah, that has been always my understanding. It's just how thermodynamics go, not everything is linearly proportional.
> 
> Thanks for the explanations.


Lol. Why did we need to explain it then. Full circle on that one


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> Lol. Why did we need to explain it then. Full circle on that one


Whatever you say, you're a waste of my time. You're obviously the troll here.


----------



## guyinthecorner1

I just got the H220x and it looks great. This is my first watercooler and I am wondering if all pumps make a decent amount of noise. I'm hearing a rattling noise even at the lowest rpm for the fans and pump. This cooler is much louder than my 212 Evo.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guyinthecorner1*
> 
> I just got the H220x and it looks great. This is my first watercooler and I am wondering if all pumps make a decent amount of noise. I'm hearing a rattling noise even at the lowest rpm for the fans and pump. This cooler is much louder than my 212 Evo.


How long has it been running for?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I'm thinking I'm getting air in the res did to the little micro cracks bram.had sent me a replacement but this is what it looks like around the bleed screw...I had not removed the bleed screw until after I noticed the cracks and started getting air in...
And this is what I've been using to force the water in and the air out through the bleed hole...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm thinking I'm getting air in the res did to the little micro cracks bram.had sent me a replacement but this is what it looks like around the bleed screw...I had not removed the bleed screw until after I noticed the cracks and started getting air in...
> And this is what I've been using to force the water in and the air out through the bleed hole...


Those don't look like cracks to me. They look like machining marks. Air is going to get into the kit when evaporation sets in and that's probably what you're noticing.


----------



## guyinthecorner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> How long has it been running for?


About 5 days.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guyinthecorner1*
> 
> About 5 days.


Do you have a way to record the noise for me and is it louder than the stock fans?


----------



## guyinthecorner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you have a way to record the noise for me and is it louder than the stock fans?


I did change out the stock fans for cooler master silentio ones. They are generally pretty quiet.
Here is a video but I don't think it picked up the sound very well:



Honestly, I can live with the sound but I am just wondering if this is normal. It performs great; I have my i5 4690k at 4.5 ghz.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guyinthecorner1*
> 
> I did change out the stock fans for cooler master silentio ones. They are generally pretty quiet.
> Here is a video but I don't think it picked up the sound very well:
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I can live with the sound but I am just wondering if this is normal. It performs great; I have my i5 4690k at 4.5 ghz.


That sounds about right to me if you're using quieter fans. Quieter fans will allow you to hear the pump noise because our Helix fans were just loud enough to drown out the noise of the pump.


----------



## guyinthecorner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That sounds about right to me if you're using quieter fans. Quieter fans will allow you to hear the pump noise because our Helix fans were just loud enough to drown out the noise of the pump.


Alright, thanks. I cannot express how much I enjoy looking at this cooler through my windowed case. The visible reservoir was the reason I bought this cooler.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Those don't look like cracks to me. They look like machining marks. Air is going to get into the kit when evaporation sets in and that's probably what you're noticing.


I'll get you a better picture...I assure you they are cracks that weren't there before







evaporation wouldn't set in every day







..I've checked all fittings and connections that is the only change...also I had to top off about once a month before now it's every night I have a bubble about the size of a jelly bean...but hey the window isn't leaking so...that's the important part to me

EDIT: pm read and replied...







prompt and always a joy to deal with :_)


----------



## LeandroJVarini

Anyone know where I can buy Ceramic Washer for pump swfitech H220X? for my broke and the pump without it generates a much too high noise!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm thinking I'm getting air in the res did to the little micro cracks bram.had sent me a replacement but this is what it looks like around the bleed screw...I had not removed the bleed screw until after I noticed the cracks and started getting air in...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is what I've been using to force the water in and the air out through the bleed hole...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those don't look like cracks to me. They look like machining marks. Air is going to get into the kit when evaporation sets in and that's probably what you're noticing.
Click to expand...

this is very important to realize


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm thinking I'm getting air in the res did to the little micro cracks bram.had sent me a replacement but this is what it looks like around the bleed screw...I had not removed the bleed screw until after I noticed the cracks and started getting air in...
> And this is what I've been using to force the water in and the air out through the bleed hole...


I have/had the exact same problem. One was already replaced but other one still an issue.









Own a H240-X and H140-X.

*H240-X*:
Small crack formed like you show in the pic and even it spider webbed and actually started leaking (wet to the touch).
RMA'd the H240-X and the replacement came without the bleed screw hole.








Works perfect and the bleed screw got in the way when I closed my case anyway so I was happy to see there wasn't one.

*H140-X*
I haven't been too excited to do anything about this one yet. I don't see any cracks yet on this one but I can tell air is getting in there. I had it pretty much perfectly primed and in a matter of 2-3 weeks I have air bubbles galore. I am certain that I don't have any leaks elsewhere in my system and the symptoms are unfortunately familiar.

The products are great and I love them, but the bleed hole is probably similar to the saying "The road to hell was paved with good intentions"


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is very important to realize


I do realise about evap and experienced it properly before....now it's every day which is not indicative of evaporation however new window is en route so no issues to be had...I'm not opposed to topping off every so often but every day is a pain







I'm still pretty impressed I mean 720mm of rad space all thinnish rads with one pump and 3 blocks getting all temps under 60 at all times...Can't complain too much especially considering gpus are 290s...and cpu is pushing 1.512 volts for 4.8...not to mention that a have one set of fans on each rad...(but to be fair I run everything at 100 percent speeds) plus now that ac is running should bring ambient down a bit...and second pump is coming back...


----------



## Mega Man

Only 720 ? I run 2400 ....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only 720 ? I run 2400 ....


I'm poor I work at Wal-Mart







looking for better job but nothing yet


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> I have/had the exact same problem. One was already replaced but other one still an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Own a H240-X and H140-X.
> 
> *H240-X*:
> Small crack formed like you show in the pic and even it spider webbed and actually started leaking (wet to the touch).
> RMA'd the H240-X and the replacement came without the bleed screw hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Works perfect and the bleed screw got in the way when I closed my case anyway so I was happy to see there wasn't one.
> 
> *H140-X*
> I haven't been too excited to do anything about this one yet. I don't see any cracks yet on this one but I can tell air is getting in there. I had it pretty much perfectly primed and in a matter of 2-3 weeks I have air bubbles galore. I am certain that I don't have any leaks elsewhere in my system and the symptoms are unfortunately familiar.
> 
> The products are great and I love them, but the bleed hole is probably similar to the saying "The road to hell was paved with good intentions"


PM me about this and I can have a replacement window sent to you that doesn't have the bleed hole.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I do realise about evap and experienced it properly before....now it's every day which is not indicative of evaporation however new window is en route so no issues to be had...I'm not opposed to topping off every so often but every day is a pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still pretty impressed I mean 720mm of rad space all thinnish rads with one pump and 3 blocks getting all temps under 60 at all times...Can't complain too much especially considering gpus are 290s...and cpu is pushing 1.512 volts for 4.8...not to mention that a have one set of fans on each rad...(but to be fair I run everything at 100 percent speeds) plus now that ac is running should bring ambient down a bit...and second pump is coming back...


If you're noticing more air bubbles from one day to the next then that's not evaporation. Air is likely getting in from the cracks around the bleed screw. Our engineer confirmed that those do look like the formation of cracks. Let me know if you need help replacing the window.


----------



## InsideJob

Just got the h220x in. I'm upgrading from a 212 evo and not sure if I have the old stock amd backplate around. It doesn't look to be compatible with the backplate from the 212... What do I do?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Just got the h220x in. I'm upgrading from a 212 evo and not sure if I have the old stock amd backplate around. It doesn't look to be compatible with the backplate from the 212... What do I do?


If that's the case then you may need to purchase one off of EBay or something. We don't carry the AMD back plates because they come included with the motherboard.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If that's the case then you may need to purchase one off of EBay or something. We don't carry the AMD back plates because they come included with the motherboard.


also to note you would want to be sure the backplate works with your board before you buy it..just because the hole spacing is a standard doesn't mean all backplate are interchangeable...layouts are different and some come with cutout areas fit model/layout specific differences


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If that's the case then you may need to purchase one off of EBay or something. We don't carry the AMD back plates because they come included with the motherboard.


Thank you very much for the prompt reply








Thankfully I was able to find the old one from my board amongst my heap of parts. All is good










Come stop by my build log for more


----------



## PontiacGTX

Hello,i have a doubt,how much tim and on which wayy do you apply the tim ,i have a glacer 240L and the processor idled at 36-37c(with a pair of swiftech helix) and a dot of NT H1,while my nh d14 idles at 30-32c on a stock 2700k.

And how about using thick TIMs i have only Antec formula 7 from and.the cooler master TIM


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Thank you very much for the prompt reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I was able to find the old one from my board amongst my heap of parts. All is good


Quick tip, well known but not everyone does it, I always use the *motherboad box* as the keeper of all the 'stuff' I think I'll never use/left over from my builds. I've done it since the Triton chipsets







. At least then all I have to do is find a *BOX*.







.


----------



## Mega Man

as do i XD


----------



## bishop161

I ordered a monsoon antimicrobacterial plug to use with the h220-x with custom tubing. However, it doesnt fit anywhere on the loop. What should I do to prevent build up?? I plan on running distilled water.


----------



## nersty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> I ordered a monsoon antimicrobacterial plug to use with the h220-x with custom tubing. However, it doesnt fit anywhere on the loop. What should I do to prevent build up?? I plan on running distilled water.


http://www.microcenter.com/product/393231/Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nersty*
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/393231/Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive


Thanks for the tip. Looks like it'll be awhile for it to ship. What about a KillCoil? Can I just insert on into the rad?

EDIT: NM, I found that I can use the plug on the EK waterblock for my gpu.


----------



## sav4

Which would you guys go with fractal s36 $236 or h240x $282 ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Looks like it'll be awhile for it to ship. What about a KillCoil? Can I just insert on into the rad?
> 
> EDIT: NM, I found that I can use the plug on the EK waterblock for my gpu.


just a forewarning, if you have a nickel aceteal waterblock, its preferable that you dont use silver in the loop. You add an additional 3rd metal to the loop which will in turn will possibly expedite galvanic corrosion.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Quick tip, well known but not everyone does it, I always use the *motherboad box* as the keeper of all the 'stuff' I think I'll never use/left over from my builds. I've done it since the Triton chipsets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . At least then all I have to do is find a *BOX*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Been doing the same for years









I always know where certain items like thermal paste, screws, media, etc are when I need them. Then once I do an upgrade I just swap everything into the new box.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> just a forewarning, if you have a nickel aceteal waterblock, its preferable that you dont use silver in the loop. You add an additional 3rd metal to the loop which will in turn will possibly expedite galvanic corrosion.


I thought silver was fine with Nickle and Copper? Just couldn't mix it with Aluminum?

My waterblock is a EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Been doing the same for years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always know where certain items like thermal paste, screws, media, etc are when I need them. Then once I do an upgrade I just swap everything into the new box.


I did thisvuntil the last two years...I need to to through all the boxes and consolidate again... I also have three drawers fit random install stuff and cables


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> I thought silver was fine with Nickle and Copper? Just couldn't mix it with Aluminum?
> 
> My waterblock is a EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel


Ok, I see a couple threads warning about kill coil plus ek block corrosion.

Think ill just go with this clear primochill liquid to be safe.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> I thought silver was fine with Nickle and Copper? Just couldn't mix it with Aluminum?
> 
> My waterblock is a EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel


It is. Nickle is a noble metal that resists galvanic corrosion, you are fine. Think about it....why would a top tier mfg like EK plate a copper block with a material that causes a galvanic reaction?


----------



## Laithan

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info

and

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf


----------



## Dyaems

The link you posted is like... 4 years ago. I think EK already fixed that plating issue.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is. Nickle is a noble metal that resists galvanic corrosion, you are fine. Think about it....why would a top tier mfg like EK plate a copper block with a material that causes a galvanic reaction?


Ok, now i'm just confused....









There is a

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/2vr6uq/q_silver_kill_coils_and_ek_blocks/
 about EK being a pain if you use a killcoil.

I've also read A LOT around here about people's disdain for pre-mixed....

This is my first time using my own coolant instead of using what just comes in the All in Ones. So would appreciate a little more guidance.

My setup (two seperate loops):
CPU:
H140-X
stock Swiftech apogee waterblock
Moonsoon fittings
Primochill advanced tubing

GPU
H220-X
Moonsoon fittings
Primochill advanced tubing
EK Nickel+Acetal waterblock for gtx770


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> The link you posted is like... 4 years ago. I think EK already fixed that plating issue.


Correct, and it is now up to the reader to determine if they are affected or not.

Also if not obvious, jump to the last posts on the thread for the "latest info"


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Ok, now i'm just confused....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/2vr6uq/q_silver_kill_coils_and_ek_blocks/
> about EK being a pain if you use a killcoil.
> 
> I've also read A LOT around here about people's disdain for pre-mixed....
> 
> This is my first time using my own coolant instead of using what just comes in the All in Ones. So would appreciate a little more guidance.
> 
> My setup (two seperate loops):
> CPU:
> H140-X
> stock Swiftech apogee waterblock
> Moonsoon fittings
> Primochill advanced tubing
> 
> GPU
> H220-X
> Moonsoon fittings
> Primochill advanced tubing
> EK Nickel+Acetal waterblock for gtx770


It appears from that thread that EK has had some plating issues, and that they try to blame silver interaction for it - or it could be that silver aggravates the issue.

I can speak only from the science standpoint of nickel involved with galvanic reactions, I don't have knowledge of EK specific issues.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Gonna be a fun night lol


----------



## mattlyall06

Hey guys. First post on here in a while!

Just got my new rig set up. i7 4790k with a H240-X cooler. Everything is great, temps are amazing. Currently at 4.8ghz @ 1.225 Vcore with temps not going above 65 during XTU. Awesome!

Now here is my question. I have the CPU waterblock LED plugged into the SYS FAN port on the Gigabyte X97X-UD3H-BK motherboard, but it does not light up. What could be the reason? One thing I haven't tried is plugging it into the PWN spliter that came with the H240-X. I would think it doesn't matter where it's plugged in, as long as it outputs power.

Thanks!

edit: holy crap look at my old sig rig! lmaoooo


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Gonna be a fun night lol


Let me know what you think of those fans.


----------



## ivoryg37

Will mayhem pastel work in the h220x? I've read somewhere the pump can't handle the nano fluid or something like that


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Will mayhem pastel work in the h220x? I've read somewhere the pump can't handle the nano fluid or something like that


We recommend staying away from nano-fluids due to the design of our pump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We recommend staying away from nano-fluids due to the design of our pump.


is it prone to buildup of the particles?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> is it prone to buildup of the particles?


Essentially, yes. That's why we highly recommend not using these fluids with our kits.


----------



## ivoryg37

What kind of fluid do you recommend? I put the h220x into an air 240 but the tubing is too long so I plan on changing the tubing so that its the exact size for this case. I may try to catch the fluid in the container so I can reuse it


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Gonna be a fun night lol


Why Vadar fans? I thought the Helix 140mm fans are like really good already, why wasted money on something that you dont need? just wondering


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Hey BramSLI1, sorry if this has been answered already couldn't find any info via search.

Should I keep the pump at it's maximum speed in my motherboard fan control software (FAN Xpert 2)? Also I noticed that I have to keep it maxed in Smart Mode (control speed via %), if I enter RPM mode you can hear the pump changing speeds every half second I think it has something to do with the software attempting to keep the pump at exactly 2950 RPM as if it was a fan.


----------



## ssgtnubb

These are 120mm fans, I needed 3 for another section and figured I'd test on the 220x.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Hey BramSLI1, sorry if this has been answered already couldn't find any info via search.
> 
> Should I keep the pump at it's maximum speed in my motherboard fan control software (FAN Xpert 2)? Also I noticed that I have to keep it maxed in Smart Mode (control speed via %), if I enter RPM mode you can hear the pump changing speeds every half second I think it has something to do with the software attempting to keep the pump at exactly 2950 RPM as if it was a fan.


Yes, it does sound like something is going on with your software. You can run the pump at full speed if you want. It won't be a problem.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, it does sound like something is going on with your software. You can run the pump at full speed if you want. It won't be a problem.


Solved the problem, apparently the only PWM 4-pin fan header is still just the CPU header, all the other 4-pin fan headers aren't capable of PWM fan control. Putting the pump on the CPU header solved the issue. Wow, the system is much quieter now with no whine from the pump @ ~1800rpm.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Solved the problem, apparently the only PWM 4-pin fan header is still just the CPU header, all the other 4-pin fan headers aren't capable of PWM fan control. Putting the pump on the CPU header solved the issue. Wow, the system is much quieter now with no whine from the pump @ ~1800rpm.


I'm glad that you were able to resolve it. This is common for most motherboards. They might have more than one 4-pin fan header, but usually the only one that supports true PWM functionality is the CPU fan header.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What kind of fluid do you recommend? I put the h220x into an air 240 but the tubing is too long so I plan on changing the tubing so that its the exact size for this case. I may try to catch the fluid in the container so I can reuse it


I would also like to know this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> I would also like to know this.


The only recommendation I can give you would be our own HydrX coolant that currently is only offered in green.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The only recommendation I can give you would be our own HydrX coolant that currently is only offered in green.


Does the factory fluid have anti corrosion and algae


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the factory fluid have anti corrosion and algae


Yes, it certainly does.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the factory fluid have anti corrosion and algae
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it certainly does.
Click to expand...

By anti algae does it mean it prevents and kills any growth or just slow the process down ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> By anti algae does it mean it prevents and kills any growth or just slow the process down ?


I don't there is a coolant available that's a permanent solution. All of them need to be changed out over time. I had a system that ran with our HydrX coolant for over two years before I had to change it out and the coolant was still pretty good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> just a forewarning, if you have a nickel aceteal waterblock, its preferable that you dont use silver in the loop. You add an additional 3rd metal to the loop which will in turn will possibly expedite galvanic corrosion.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought silver was fine with Nickle and Copper? Just couldn't mix it with Aluminum?
> 
> My waterblock is a EK-FC770 GTX DCII - Acetal+Nickel
Click to expand...

No. It is copper and al that causes galvanic corrosion.

Nickel and silver causes corrosion ( not galvanic and going from memory more like it just strip the nickel. Again this is from memory. )

Go check out any product on koolances website. It will have a disclaimer at the bottom ( may need to look at a product with nickel )


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> By anti algae does it mean it prevents and kills any growth or just slow the process down ?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't there is a coolant available that's a permanent solution. All of them need to be changed out over time. I had a system that ran with our HydrX coolant for over two years before I had to change it out and the coolant was still pretty good.
Click to expand...

Thats a given but kits full of algae that brought brand new like the pics I sent you seems questionable.


----------



## FreeElectron

The Swiftech H240-X is making a rattling noise...
Is this a common issue?
What should i do?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> The Swiftech H240-X is making a rattling noise...
> Is this a common issue?
> What should i do?


Can you record the sound ?


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Can you record the sound ?


It's gone after i moved the case a little on the side.

It was similar to this sound but the ticking was a bit slower.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> It's gone after i moved the case a little on the side.
> 
> It was similar to this sound but the ticking was a bit slower.


two words...air bubble


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> two words...air bubble


Should i be worried?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> Should i be worried?


I wouldn't worry to much if you happen to see a bubble in the res you can move it to fillport and top off with distilled water...whenever I hear a tick I first check fans to make sure nothing is barely touching a blade then I move on to checking other things...if it was a serious bubble or a bigger issue you would likely hear a lot louder noise than that


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I wouldn't worry to much if you happen to see a bubble in the res you can move it to fillport and top off with distilled water...whenever I hear a tick I first check fans to make sure nothing is barely touching a blade then I move on to checking other things...if it was a serious bubble or a bigger issue you would likely hear a lot louder noise than that


ok, thanks


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> ok, thanks


If you run the pump on full speed it might go away.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> If you run the pump on full speed it might go away.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> It's gone after i moved the case a little on the side.


I'm also running the fans/pump on max since installation cause they are barely audible.


----------



## jam71

hi, I bought one Swiftech Swiftech H220 which itself replaced the defective pump with that of h220x.I cables coming out of the pump are different (being the pump h220x ) and so do not know how should I connect them , there is a cable sata , another more ' small and then a third more' short with a small connector , you tell me how to connect them ? Then I wanted to know if and how I can connect to the splitter 2 more fans for them to adjust thanks .


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> hi, I bought one Swiftech Swiftech H220 which itself replaced the defective pump with that of h220x.I cables coming out of the pump are different (being the pump h220x ) and so do not know how should I connect them , there is a cable sata , another more ' small and then a third more' short with a small connector , you tell me how to connect them ? Then I wanted to know if and how I can connect to the splitter 2 more fans for them to adjust thanks .


The manual has a nice diagram that explains connecting the 220-X
I have just installed my H240-X Yesterday.
Here is what you should do/understand.

There are 4 key components in the AIO

140mm fan
140mm fan
Pump
Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter
Each of those components require two things.

Power
Control and Monitor

140mm fan : connect to the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter that will provide *power* and *control*.
140mm fan : connect to the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter that will provide *power* and *control*.
Pump :-
*Control* and Monitor : connect the 4 pin connector the unique (red coloured?) 4 pin connector in the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter to provide control.
*Power* : connect the SATA to the PSU SATA power cable to provide power for the pump

Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter :-
*Control* and Monitor : connect the main 4 pin connector to motherboard's 4 pin PWM CPU fan header.
*Power* : connect the SATA to the PSU SATA power cable to provide power to the splitter which will provide power to both of the fans.

Finally use motherboard's BIOS to control the speed/fan curve for the AIO.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattlyall06*
> 
> Hey guys. First post on here in a while!
> 
> Just got my new rig set up. i7 4790k with a H240-X cooler. Everything is great, temps are amazing. Currently at 4.8ghz @ 1.225 Vcore with temps not going above 65 during XTU. Awesome!
> 
> Now here is my question. I have the CPU waterblock LED plugged into the SYS FAN port on the Gigabyte X97X-UD3H-BK motherboard, but it does not light up. What could be the reason? One thing I haven't tried is plugging it into the PWN spliter that came with the H240-X. I would think it doesn't matter where it's plugged in, as long as it outputs power.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> edit: holy crap look at my old sig rig! lmaoooo


Check your mobo's BIOS fan control. SYS_FAN header means it is using voltage to control fan speed, so upping the fan speed/voltage in BIOS means increasing the intensity of the light. Most (if not all) motherboards has their SYS_Fan header set to the minimal voltage on the stock BIOS setting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What kind of fluid do you recommend? I put the h220x into an air 240 but the tubing is too long so I plan on changing the tubing so that its the exact size for this case. I may try to catch the fluid in the container so I can reuse it


Just use distilled water + 2-4 drops of PTNuke PHN. Will save you all the hassle.
If you want dye in your runs, then either get colored tubes or just... don't.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Just use distilled water + 2-4 drops of PTNuke PHN. Will save you all the hassle.
> If you want dye in your runs, then either get colored tubes or just... don't.


This is EXACTLY what I use and after reading I'm starting to question if I should switch or not.

The only bad thing I've noticed is that after a month or so the "crystal clear" water is now slightly browned (using all copper rads BTW). I guess it could be from residue on new equipment also.

*So 2 questions that sound easy but I suspect won't be:*

*(1)* I will drain and re-fill.. but should I be concerned? I have CLEAR tubes so the dirty water doesn't look very good









*(2)* Can I safely add a dye in combination with the PTNuke and Distilled water? I read a lot of bad things about dyes and am not clear what to buy, or if just best to leave alone.

Either way I'd like to *not* have brown tinted water eventually..

Thanks for you advice in advance


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> The manual has a nice diagram that explains connecting the 220-X
> I have just installed my H240-X Yesterday.
> Here is what you should do/understand.
> 
> There are 4 key components in the AIO
> 
> 140mm fan
> 140mm fan
> Pump
> Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter
> Each of those components require two things.
> 
> Power
> Control and Monitor
> 
> 140mm fan : connect to the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter that will provide *power* and *control*.
> 140mm fan : connect to the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter that will provide *power* and *control*.
> Pump :-
> *Control* and Monitor : connect the 4 pin connector the unique (red coloured?) 4 pin connector in the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter to provide control.
> *Power* : connect the SATA to the PSU SATA power cable to provide power for the pump
> 
> Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter :-
> *Control* and Monitor : connect the main 4 pin connector to motherboard's 4 pin PWM CPU fan header.
> *Power* : connect the SATA to the PSU SATA power cable to provide power to the splitter which will provide power to both of the fans.
> 
> Finally use motherboard's BIOS to control the speed/fan curve for the AIO.


ok perfect, now it is all more ' clear , doubt I came because the pump H220 has only a connector that is connected to the splitter while the pump instead of h220x well as having the connector to the splitter also has the serial ata that serves to feed it right? which is connected to the power supply .This means that the pump h220x is more ' powerful ? Asthe also requires


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> ok perfect, now it is all more ' clear , doubt I came because the pump H220 has only a connector that is connected to the splitter while the pump instead of h220x well as having the connector to the splitter also has the serial ata that serves to feed it right? which is connected to the power supply .This means that the pump h220x is more ' powerful ? Asthe also requires


I can't fully understand what you are saying but, here is what i think you wanted to know.

SATA *power* connector is used to supply power to all of the components of the AIO (Swfitech H240-X/H220-X)
The pump having it's own SATA *power* connector means that it does require more power.


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> I can't fully understand what you are saying but, here is what i think you wanted to know.
> 
> SATA *power* connector is used to supply power to all of the components of the AIO (Swfitech H240-X/H220-X)
> The pump having it's own SATA *power* connector means that it does require more power.


It 's what I meant , the Swiftech H220 has only one wire coming out of the pump and should be connected to the splitter whereas in the h220-240x is also a sata cable to power the pump that is definitely more ' powerful .


----------



## Laithan

on 220x/240x - The 4-pin cable for the pump is not giving it any power at all, it is used to read the voltage for the *variable speed* pump.

The SATA is what actually *powers* the pump.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> It 's what I meant , the Swiftech H220 has only one wire coming out of the pump and should be connected to the splitter whereas in the h220-240x is also a sata cable to power the pump that is definitely more ' powerful .


Yup.


----------



## Dry Bonez

how in the world do you clean the tubes from a H220X? i opened up my case just to keep it clean and im looking at the tubes and i dont like how they have fingerprints and stuff. how do i go about cleaning it? alcohol wipes?


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> This is EXACTLY what I use and after reading I'm starting to question if I should switch or not.
> 
> The only bad thing I've noticed is that after a month or so the "crystal clear" water is now slightly browned (using all copper rads BTW). I guess it could be from residue on new equipment also.
> 
> *So 2 questions that sound easy but I suspect won't be:*
> 
> *(1)* I will drain and re-fill.. but should I be concerned? I have CLEAR tubes so the dirty water doesn't look very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *(2)* Can I safely add a dye in combination with the PTNuke and Distilled water? I read a lot of bad things about dyes and am not clear what to buy, or if just best to leave alone.
> 
> Either way I'd like to *not* have brown tinted water eventually..
> 
> Thanks for you advice in advance


Quoting myself like a champ








PTNuke and distilled water in a H140x and H240x loop.
Not sure if anyone can provide some advice.
Thx


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how in the world do you clean the tubes from a H220X? i opened up my case just to keep it clean and im looking at the tubes and i dont like how they have fingerprints and stuff. how do i go about cleaning it? alcohol wipes?


Don't use alcohol on rubber. That's not a good idea. Just use warm water on a lint-free cloth. That should take off any fingerprints.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Don't use alcohol on rubber. That's not a good idea. Just use warm water on a lint-free cloth. That should take off any fingerprints.


thanks, that did the trick just now. i was about to use some alcohol wipes too, good thing i didnt. now my next thing i will clean is the radiator, how can i take out dust from the rad? I can see thru the fans and see it has quite a bit of dust build up.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> thanks, that did the trick just now. i was about to use some alcohol wipes too, good thing i didnt. now my next thing i will clean is the radiator, how can i take out dust from the rad? I can see thru the fans and see it has quite a bit of dust build up.


I have only had to clean my rad once in over a year of usage. They are setup as intake on the top of my case with the 600t filter above them as well. I just took the fans and radiator out of the case and used canned air. Some others may have the same or better recommendations.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> thanks, that did the trick just now. i was about to use some alcohol wipes too, good thing i didnt. now my next thing i will clean is the radiator, how can i take out dust from the rad? I can see thru the fans and see it has quite a bit of dust build up.


alcohol can dry out rubber...never really good


----------



## krew

@Bram any news about h240-x distribution in Europe ? I saw some stock on highflow.nl but in crazy price + shipping :/


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> This is EXACTLY what I use and after reading I'm starting to question if I should switch or not.
> 
> The only bad thing I've noticed is that after a month or so the "crystal clear" water is now slightly browned (using all copper rads BTW). I guess it could be from residue on new equipment also.
> 
> *So 2 questions that sound easy but I suspect won't be:*
> 
> *(1)* I will drain and re-fill.. but should I be concerned? I have CLEAR tubes so the dirty water doesn't look very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *(2)* Can I safely add a dye in combination with the PTNuke and Distilled water? I read a lot of bad things about dyes and am not clear what to buy, or if just best to leave alone.
> 
> Either way I'd like to *not* have brown tinted water eventually..
> 
> Thanks for you advice in advance


6 months and counting, my distilled water looks just like how it was the day I topped up the H240x. No difference.
Any other rads in your loop? If so, did you flush them before use?

No, like it has been explained over the last few pages, do not use dyes with the pump on the H220x/240x. Just disttled water + PT Nuke PHN, that's it.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> 6 months and counting, my distilled water looks just like how it was the day I topped up the H240x. No difference.
> Any other rads in your loop? If so, did you flush them before use?
> 
> No, like it has been explained over the last few pages, do not use dyes with the pump on the H220x/240x. Just disttled water + PT Nuke PHN, that's it.


Sooner or later I will get a grip of things.....

The PHN and the CU are pretty much the same thing right? I ordered the CU version of PT Nuke.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> 6 months and counting, my distilled water looks just like how it was the day I topped up the H240x. No difference.
> Any other rads in your loop? If so, did you flush them before use?
> 
> No, like it has been explained over the last few pages, do not use dyes with the pump on the H220x/240x. Just disttled water + PT Nuke PHN, that's it.


Ok thanks, I guess the lack of flushing was the issue. It was clear for over a week running but I guess it takes time to get it all 'loosened'. I have other parts in the loop, 2nd rad, flow meter so I guess I will just run a few 'tank fulls' of distilled water through the system to flush and then re-fill.

I'm glad I went with distilled and PTNuke









Thank you for the response


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> This is EXACTLY what I use and after reading I'm starting to question if I should switch or not.
> 
> The only bad thing I've noticed is that after a month or so the "crystal clear" water is now slightly browned (using all copper rads BTW). I guess it could be from residue on new equipment also.
> 
> *So 2 questions that sound easy but I suspect won't be:*
> 
> *(1)* I will drain and re-fill.. but should I be concerned? I have CLEAR tubes so the dirty water doesn't look very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *(2)* Can I safely add a dye in combination with the PTNuke and Distilled water? I read a lot of bad things about dyes and am not clear what to buy, or if just best to leave alone.
> 
> Either way I'd like to *not* have brown tinted water eventually..
> 
> Thanks for you advice in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 months and counting, my distilled water looks just like how it was the day I topped up the H240x. No difference.
> Any other rads in your loop? If so, did you flush them before use?
> 
> No, like it has been explained over the last few pages, do not use dyes with the pump on the H220x/240x. Just disttled water + PT Nuke PHN, that's it.
Click to expand...

Although it is a minor amount I would never recomend phn it is based off of bleach.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> 6 months and counting, my distilled water looks just like how it was the day I topped up the H240x. No difference.
> Any other rads in your loop? If so, did you flush them before use?
> 
> No, like it has been explained over the last few pages, do not use dyes with the pump on the H220x/240x. Just disttled water + PT Nuke PHN, that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> Sooner or later I will get a grip of things.....
> 
> The PHN and the CU are pretty much the same thing right? I ordered the CU version of PT Nuke.
Click to expand...

They are far different and it is a personal choice. But I do not ever recomend pt nuke phn.

Even at low levels of chlorine (bleach) chlorine eats rubber. It just takes longer


----------



## svictorcc

I did a very amateur scale drawing of what will be an acrylic top cover for the H140-X:


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Although it is a minor amount I would never recomend phn it is based off of bleach.
> They are far different and it is a personal choice. But I do not ever recomend pt nuke phn.
> 
> Even at low levels of chlorine (bleach) chlorine eats rubber. It just takes longer










I knew I picked the right one.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Although it is a minor amount I would never recomend phn it is based off of bleach.
> 
> The PHN and the CU are pretty much the same thing right? I ordered the CU version of PT Nuke.
> 
> They are far different and it is a personal choice. But I do not ever recomend pt nuke phn.
> 
> Even at low levels of chlorine (bleach) chlorine eats rubber. It just takes longer


lol, PT Nuke PHN is not based on 'bleach' at all.

Common household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is an oxidizing agent.

PT Nuke PHN's active ingredient is benzalkonium chloride which is a quaternary ammonium compound (commonly used in spermicidal jellies and hospital disinfectants, etc).

Oxidizing agents and Quats are like night and day in how they work against micro-organisms. Nuke PHN will never "eat rubber" or anything else in your loop. lol

PT Nuke (copper sulfate) was created by Alex Venz (@Petra) to be more compatible with dyes and other additives commonly used in watercooling.

PT Nuke PHN (benzalkonium chloride) was created by Alex for those who want to run a biocide by itself with only distilled or deionized water.

Sidewinder's Gary Stofer bought out Alex's Petra's Tech some years back and now holds all rights associated with the products.

I've used both types of PT Nuke a lot in loops with just distilled and copper blocks. The only difference I have noticed is that copper seems to more quickly form the blackish patina when running PT Nuke (copper sulfate) than it does when running PT Nuke PHN (benzalkonium chloride). Not sure why that is, but I have noticed a difference there. Not that it matters though as the patina doesn't hurt anything and actually is protective against corrosion. It just doesn't look pretty.

Also, and I wouldn't know since I have never ran nickel plated blocks, but several manufacturers of nickel products (ex: EK and Koolance) discourage using copper sulfate biocides with their nickel plated products.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, PT Nuke PHN is not based on 'bleach' at all.
> 
> Also, and I wouldn't know since I have never ran nickel plated blocks, but several manufacturers of nickel products (ex: EK and Koolance) discourage using copper sulfate biocides with their nickel plated products.


Thanks for the very informative post. Could you please elaborate or link me to the nickel plated reference about EK? I have this nickel EK block and I don't see anything on their webpage of the block's manual about the use of copper sulfate biocides.

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Thanks for the very informative post. Could you please elaborate or link me to the nickel plated reference about EK? I have this nickel EK block and I don't see anything on their webpage of the block's manual about the use of copper sulfate biocides.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.


Here's a recent reply from an EK rep ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrix12345*
> 
> Hey guys I am planning on building my first loop on Thursday, everything will be here by then expect for my PT nuke which I had to order from another supplier. Is it a bad idea to fill the loop with distilled water and then drain it after I complete my leak test? Or should I just wait for everything to get here before I put water in the system?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your safest bet: http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=24
Click to expand...

And if you were to go on and read the responses to EK_tiborrr's posts on that thread you'll see not everyone is on the same page with EK when it comes to that.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And if you were to go on and read the responses to EK_tiborrr's posts on that thread you'll see not everyone is on the same page with EK when it comes to that.


Lol that little tiff between EK R&D guy and Alex is pretty funny. My biggest take away is that PHN is better in a pure distilled water loop:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Petra*
> 
> *Edit to address the OP's question* Leak testing with straight distilled shouldn't be a problem, just make sure you clean everything (especially the radiator) before starting the leak test. If your plan is to run with straight distilled and nothing else, then I'd probably recommend the Nuke PHN over Nuke Cu since Nuke PHN won't have a negative impact on the pH of a completely unbuffered coolant like straight distilled.


EK would have me use a pre-mix. However, he himself agrees that it is the use, not the chemical itself that causes problems...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> It's not the problem of the ingredient itself, but the way it's being used and lack of proper dosage control. An uncontrolled variable. Again, we're not talking solely about plating issues but corrosion in general, mostly in radiators.


My radiator and PT_Nuke CU just came in. I am REALLY ready to put this together. Been apart now for two weeks. So I will give distilled water + PT_nuke CU a shot. If it goes south, i'll clean, flush, and refill with something else.

Hopefully i'll have some good pictures tonight of my completed loop!


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering,can the H240x pump be run from a digital fan controller and not pluged directly into the motherboard.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just wondering,can the H240x pump be run from a digital fan controller and not pluged directly into the motherboard.


As long as it has PWM support you should be fine. If not, it may run at 100% all the time. (Which isn't bad, just loud)


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I stripped a screw from one of the connections between the radiator bracket and the res/pump today. My unit suddenly was running really low on water level (it was barely maintaining above the minimum line while in use) and when re-attaching the pump/res after flushing them out, I managed to strip one of the two screws even though it seemed to be aligned right. The unit will leak from that screw hole every time now.

Should I just chuck the unit in the trash bin now? What besides the CPU block is salvageable and usable to someone in a separate loop? I'm no watercooling expert so I'm not sure if that pump/res is actually usable without the H240x bracket.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I stripped a screw from one of the connections between the radiator bracket and the res/pump today. My unit suddenly was running really low on water level (it was barely maintaining above the minimum line while in use) and when re-attaching the pump/res after flushing them out, I managed to strip one of the two screws even though it seemed to be aligned right. The unit will leak from that screw hole every time now.
> 
> Should I just chuck the unit in the trash bin now? What besides the CPU block is salvageable and usable to someone in a separate loop? I'm no watercooling expert so I'm not sure if that pump/res is actually usable without the H240x bracket.


Can you attack it with a dremel to get the screw head off?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Can you attack it with a dremel to get the screw head off?


Not sure that a dremel will help here. It's a tiny hole and the screw came out with a chunk of black plastic or whatever is in the hole on it.

This is the hole that got stripped


----------



## bishop161

ahhh. yeah, will be hard to get in there with a dremel. Maybe try an extractor kit? http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0#product-description-iframe


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Although it is a minor amount I would never recomend phn it is based off of bleach.
> 
> The PHN and the CU are pretty much the same thing right? I ordered the CU version of PT Nuke.
> 
> They are far different and it is a personal choice. But I do not ever recomend pt nuke phn.
> 
> Even at low levels of chlorine (bleach) chlorine eats rubber. It just takes longer
> 
> 
> 
> lol, PT Nuke PHN is not based on 'bleach' at all.
> 
> Common household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is an oxidizing agent.
> 
> PT Nuke PHN's active ingredient is benzalkonium chloride which is a quaternary ammonium compound (commonly used in spermicidal jellies and hospital disinfectants, etc).
> 
> Oxidizing agents and Quats are like night and day in how they work against micro-organisms. Nuke PHN will never "eat rubber" or anything else in your loop. lol
> 
> PT Nuke (copper sulfate) was created by Alex Venz (@Petra) to be more compatible with dyes and other additives commonly used in watercooling.
> 
> PT Nuke PHN (benzalkonium chloride) was created by Alex for those who want to run a biocide by itself with only distilled or deionized water.
> 
> Sidewinder's Gary Stofer bought out Alex's Petra's Tech some years back and now holds all rights associated with the products.
> 
> I've used both types of PT Nuke a lot in loops with just distilled and copper blocks. The only difference I have noticed is that copper seems to more quickly form the blackish patina when running PT Nuke (copper sulfate) than it does when running PT Nuke PHN (benzalkonium chloride). Not sure why that is, but I have noticed a difference there. Not that it matters though as the patina doesn't hurt anything and actually is protective against corrosion. It just doesn't look pretty.
> 
> Also, and I wouldn't know since I have never ran nickel plated blocks, but several manufacturers of nickel products (ex: EK and Koolance) discourage using copper sulfate biocides with their nickel plated products.
Click to expand...

I am on mobile so I reserve the right to resend. And I think the last time I heard this ( a while ago ) there was a forum that no longer exists which explains it far better then I can.

But for now I will defer to you


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am on mobile so I reserve the right to resend. And I think the last time I heard this ( a while ago ) there was a forum that no longer exists which explains it far better then I can.
> 
> But for now I will defer to you


I'm not wrong about this whether 'for now', before, or later on.

Petra'sTech PT Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide
Active Ingredient: *Benzalkonium chloride* 1.65%
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Types

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Oxidizing_agents
Quote:


> Oxidizing agents act by oxidizing the cell membrane of microorganisms, which results in a loss of structure and leads to cell lysis and death. A large number of disinfectants operate in this way. Chlorine and oxygen are strong oxidizers, so their compounds figure heavily here.
> 
> Sodium hypochlorite is very commonly used. *Common household bleach is a sodium hypochlorite solution*


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Quaternary_ammonium_compounds
Quote:


> *Quaternary ammonium compounds ("quats"), such as benzalkonium chloride*, are a large group of related compounds. Some concentrated formulations have been shown to be effective low-level disinfectants. [...] Quats are biocides that also kill algae and are used as an additive in large-scale industrial water systems to minimize undesired biological growth.


PT Nuke PHN is a Quat compound, not an oxidizing agent like a bleach. The two are not similar.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Not sure that a dremel will help here. It's a tiny hole and the screw came out with a chunk of black plastic or whatever is in the hole on it.
> 
> This is the hole that got stripped


Bit hard to see in your photo . Did it pull the thread insert out or just strip the head of the screw?
Might be worth pm bram see if you can get the housing seperate or there are plastic repair kits similar to neadit metal mend .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am on mobile so I reserve the right to resend. And I think the last time I heard this ( a while ago ) there was a forum that no longer exists which explains it far better then I can.
> 
> But for now I will defer to you
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not wrong about this whether 'for now', before, or later on.
> 
> Petra'sTech PT Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide
> Active Ingredient: *Benzalkonium chloride* 1.65%
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Types
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Oxidizing_agents
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Oxidizing agents act by oxidizing the cell membrane of microorganisms, which results in a loss of structure and leads to cell lysis and death. A large number of disinfectants operate in this way. Chlorine and oxygen are strong oxidizers, so their compounds figure heavily here.
> 
> Sodium hypochlorite is very commonly used. *Common household bleach is a sodium hypochlorite solution*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Quaternary_ammonium_compounds
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Quaternary ammonium compounds ("quats"), such as benzalkonium chloride*, are a large group of related compounds. Some concentrated formulations have been shown to be effective low-level disinfectants. [...] Quats are biocides that also kill algae and are used as an additive in large-scale industrial water systems to minimize undesired biological growth.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> PT Nuke PHN is a Quat compound, not an oxidizing agent like a bleach. The two are not similar.
Click to expand...

http://www.thwater.net/04-1227.htm
Quote:


> Benzalkonium Chloride is used in Water & Effluent Treatment Formulations and Algaecides for Swimming Pools


while the analogy of "bleach" was improper the fact is it is the same thing that is used in pools, and i have not only seen PVC eaten by it, but also the rubber seals which any good pool tech ( i am certified till this year iirc as a pool operator aka maint ) always carries the rubber seals as it is one of the first thing that is eaten
{ when i say eaten i mean i touch the pvc and it disolves }
as i stated above it is a personal choice and a MINOR amount, ( i wish i could find that forum link ) but i do not want to risk it. ill stick to good ole PT NUKE


----------



## sav4

Just wondering is the hydrx pm2 the same stuff in the h240x ?


----------



## bishop161

Finally pieced everything together!











Really love the look! Performance is also pretty excellent!



That was after about 8 runs of heaven.

Only complaint, like everyone warned me about, is how hard it is to bleed with two tied together on one system. I can still access the fill port on the top, but since the 280mm radiator is higher, I cant put anymore water in it. I also have a quick disconnect at the bottom, but it too is at the point where I can't add anymore. So now it sounds like a quiet water fountain in my computer.... lol


----------



## Dudewitbow

Tis why I just adopted bleeding a loop connected only to the PSU(running 100%, no mobo action) while the case is on its side. for most situations, a case being on its side will bring the res to the top or near top of loop. if not, just take it out loosely and fill, then screw it back into its fan place.


----------



## sav4

Is there much difference in cooling performace between the h220x and the h240x ?
Only going to be used with CPU and 1 gpu in this test there within 1 degree will this change with a gpu in the loop?
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2


----------



## jprovido

h220 to h220x yhay or ney?

I pump stopped once about 6 months ago I don't know why(i just restarded windows and it stopped running). It ran again after I shut down the pc for a couple of hours. never happened again since but it's still bothering me to this day.


----------



## FreeElectron

ok
so i am getting a CPU fan error. temperature increase fast (start as 48 and within seconds it is 54c had to shutdown after that)
CPU Fan reading in BIOS does not read speed (pump speed)
Both of the helix fans are working.

What is wrong?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Bit hard to see in your photo . Did it pull the thread insert out or just strip the head of the screw?
> Might be worth pm bram see if you can get the housing seperate or there are plastic repair kits similar to neadit metal mend .


The thread is stripped. If you try to screw in the screw, it just lets you twist it forever. I just decided to try to sell it off discounted to someone and let it be their problem.


----------



## fuloran1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Is there much difference in cooling performace between the h220x and the h240x ?
> Only going to be used with CPU and 1 gpu in this test there within 1 degree will this change with a gpu in the loop?
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/42047-swiftech-h240-x-open-loop-280mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2


If you are using it with a GPU I would highly recommend the 240. The larger rad really helps when you add a GPU to the mix.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> The thread is stripped. If you try to screw in the screw, it just lets you twist it forever. I just decided to try to sell it off discounted to someone and let it be their problem.


Up to you at the end but I would try something like this in it http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/DynaGrip-QuikSteel-Plastic-Repair-56g/30500
Fill the hole and while it's still wet screw the screw in it will set around the screw threads an u should be fine to remove it after its set.


----------



## Phoebus

Hi guys,

I'm looking to replace my old H220 with a 220-X (the 220 pump has become super loud, and my temps aren't very good anymore). I've been waiting for the unit to come back in stock at Swiftech, but I notice that Coolerguys.com has it in stock now. Is there a reason to wait for Swiftech stock, or can I buy from Coolerguys now? I'm happy to wait if the new stock at Swiftech will be a new rev that includes some fixes or something along those lines.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Up to you at the end but I would try something like this in it http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/DynaGrip-QuikSteel-Plastic-Repair-56g/30500
> Fill the hole and while it's still wet screw the screw in it will set around the screw threads an u should be fine to remove it after its set.


Is there anything cheaper than that? Would something from here work http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=plastic+repair&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aplastic+repair


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm looking to replace my old H220 with a 220-X (the 220 pump has become super loud, and my temps aren't very good anymore). I've been waiting for the unit to come back in stock at Swiftech, but I notice that Coolerguys.com has it in stock now. Is there a reason to wait for Swiftech stock, or can I buy from Coolerguys now? I'm happy to wait if the new stock at Swiftech will be a new rev that includes some fixes or something along those lines.


I just got a 220x from Performance PCs the other day and it was a revised edition that didn't have the bleed valve. The unit has been running very well.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Is there anything cheaper than that? Would something from here work http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=plastic+repair&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aplastic+repair


The plastic aid repairer would be good look at the 3rd review a guys used it on a stripped screw thread on a pump.
Check out the reviews u wan either a soft putty so u can screw the screw in to make the thread or a liquid eproxy have u any expirience with this sort of stuff ?


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Not sure that a dremel will help here. It's a tiny hole and the screw came out with a chunk of black plastic or whatever is in the hole on it.
> 
> This is the hole that got stripped


Definitely get some waterproof epoxy. Put some in the hole and screw the screw in. Of course it will be permanent once the epoxy dries.

I just changed the tubing on my h220x. Since the tubing length was shorter than stock to fit in my brothers case. I end up with a little bit of extra fluid. I will probably put it in a bottle just in case I need to put the stock tubing back on.

Primochill 3/8x5/8 UV purple tubing


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Just wondering is the hydrx pm2 the same stuff in the h240x ?


No, it's not the same. We no longer sell the PM2 coolant because the vendor we were getting it from stopped producing it. The coolant in the X kits is almost clear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> ok
> so i am getting a CPU fan error. temperature increase fast (start as 48 and within seconds it is 54c had to shutdown after that)
> CPU Fan reading in BIOS does not read speed (pump speed)
> Both of the helix fans are working.
> 
> What is wrong?


Try checking your SATA power connector as it may simply be loose. If that doesn't work then try another SATA connector on your power supply.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.thwater.net/04-1227.htm
> while the analogy of "bleach" was improper the fact is it is the same thing that is used in pools, and i have not only seen PVC eaten by it, but also the rubber seals which any good pool tech ( i am certified till this year iirc as a pool operator aka maint ) always carries the rubber seals as it is one of the first thing that is eaten
> { when i say eaten i mean i touch the pvc and it disolves }
> as i stated above it is a personal choice and a MINOR amount, ( i wish i could find that forum link ) but i do not want to risk it. ill stick to good ole PT NUKE


Welp, I threw in 4 drops in my loop. 6 months+ now and it hasn't done a single thing but kept my water as clear as it can be since day 1.

Let's see by the end of the year if your claim of "rubber eating" from the PHN is true or not. But as you said, if small amount would be minor and wouldn't make much of a difference, then why would there be a concern again?


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it's not the same. We no longer sell the PM2 coolant because the vendor we were getting it from stopped producing it. The coolant in the X kits is almost clear.
> Try checking your SATA power connector as it may simply be loose. If that doesn't work then try another SATA connector on your power supply.


Tried different connectors, still doesn't work.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> Tried different connectors, still doesn't work.


OK, in that case send me a PM about this so that I can assist you with getting the kit repaired.


----------



## sav4

Hey all pccasegear have h220x in Australia if anyone is after them they have told me they won't be stocking the h240x or any more after this batch which is a shame. Just a heads up for Aussies ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.thwater.net/04-1227.htm
> while the analogy of "bleach" was improper the fact is it is the same thing that is used in pools, and i have not only seen PVC eaten by it, but also the rubber seals which any good pool tech ( i am certified till this year iirc as a pool operator aka maint ) always carries the rubber seals as it is one of the first thing that is eaten
> { when i say eaten i mean i touch the pvc and it disolves }
> as i stated above it is a personal choice and a MINOR amount, ( i wish i could find that forum link ) but i do not want to risk it. ill stick to good ole PT NUKE
> 
> 
> 
> Welp, I threw in 4 drops in my loop. 6 months+ now and it hasn't done a single thing but kept my water as clear as it can be since day 1.
> 
> Let's see by the end of the year if your claim of "rubber eating" from the PHN is true or not. But as you said, if small amount would be minor and wouldn't make much of a difference, then why would there be a concern again?
Click to expand...

well i keep my water cooling much longer then a year, however as i said it is personal pref, if you feel safe that is what matters


----------



## Hambone07si

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Finally pieced everything together!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really love the look! Performance is also pretty excellent!
> 
> 
> 
> That was after about 8 runs of heaven.
> 
> You could put a fitting on the 140mm rad on the back and add a fill port to the top of your case and then it will fill properly. If you have air in your loop it will not perform as it should. You should really make sure it's full bud.


----------



## sakerfalcon

With about 5 minutes of modding, I can safely say the H240X definitely fits inside the Corsair 500R case. In fact, it's much easier to install than with the H220, because the radiator no longer has the reservoir at the very end. Drilled 4 holes 5mm towards the front from the rearward set of 140mm holes (so the whole setup is positioned closer to the 5.25" bays), then installed the radiator as per normal. Much more space inside the case than with the H220 and no clearance issues. It can still accommodate a full size 5.25" drive bay in the topmost compartment without any issue.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> If you are using it with a GPU I would highly recommend the 240. The larger rad really helps when you add a GPU to the mix.


The reason I ask is the h220x is available in Australia but the 240x I have to get from the U.S. And is $60 more.
Is anyone using either kit with a gpu and no additional radiator care to share some load temps ?
If it's going to be within 2-3deg id rather get the h220x as i can get it in a couple of days


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You could put a fitting on the 140mm rad on the back and add a fill port to the top of your case and then it will fill properly. If you have air in your loop it will not perform as it should. You should really make sure it's full bud.


I was thinking about doing that. Two problems.

It is a REALLY tight fit (i'll post a pic after work). I am not very sure that I will be able to get either a 90 or 45 in there.
The 280mm rad is higher than the 140mm rad. So when I turn off the pump, the water in the 280mm rad drains down into the 140mm res filling it up.
So I guess this bring me to my next question. What if I just take out the 140mm combo all together. Can I run the following components off of just the 220x?

280mm rad
CPU block
GPU block
I am worried that by doing this the pump will run at full speed all the time and be loud. That is why my initial thinking was to have both in there so that they could run at a lower speed.

EDIT: I guess there is only one way to find out if the increased noise will be acceptable. I will pull it apart tonight and see how it works!


----------



## Rsamples

I would warn anyone buying from swiftech that is in need of something undamaged and expect good customer support. Received my h240-x today and what a joke of packaging and customer service. I mean i expected better for top of the line cooler. When i contacted customer service i talked to bryan only to be talked to like this stuff never happens and there packaging is so great and i had to send the pictures because i told him amd socket brackets and fan board and the screws was lose to bang around the case . So i dont expect this to be speedy at all seeing i neeed this cooler to finish my build. What a joke least the actual box was properly packaged with packing peanuts so i dont blame ups. And apparently emails take hours to receive. Here is some pictures of swiftechs top notch product packaging. Plus i in no means to bash anyone but when i pay the amount i did i expect better. Good thing i paid with paypal and i know at least i wont get screwed over. One way or another ill get this fixed.

IMG_0068.JPG 1946k .JPG file


IMG_0066.JPG 1675k .JPG file


IMG_0065.JPG 2010k .JPG file


----------



## Mega Man

looks normal to me **

did you bother researching at all ? like idk a unboxing video ?

**
those screws would have to hit hard to bend the fins that bad, even then, totally repairable. by " hit hard" i mean thrown by ups

my fav part is " but when i pay the amount i did i expect better." do you know how much this kit SHOULD cost ?

go ahead . price it out. .

and requesting pics of the damage is unreasonable, and deserving a rant???

sounds normal and reasonable to me
who have you been dealing with for warranty that they just accept " its broken" then are like " yea we will send you a new one "


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rsamples*
> 
> I would warn anyone buying from swiftech that is in need of something undamaged and expect good customer support. Received my h240-x today and what a joke of packaging and customer service. I mean i expected better for top of the line cooler. When i contacted customer service i talked to bryan only to be talked to like this stuff never happens and there packaging is so great and i had to send the pictures because i told him amd socket brackets and fan board and the screws was lose to bang around the case . So i dont expect this to be speedy at all seeing i neeed this cooler to finish my build. What a joke least the actual box was properly packaged with packing peanuts so i dont blame ups. And apparently emails take hours to receive. Here is some pictures of swiftechs top notch product packaging. Plus i in no means to bash anyone but when i pay the amount i did i expect better. Good thing i paid with paypal and i know at least i wont get screwed over. One way or another ill get this fixed.
> 
> IMG_0068.JPG 1946k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0066.JPG 1675k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0065.JPG 2010k .JPG file


Looks very normal to me with ANY kit that you buy, I also had to unbend a few pins on my H220 and H220X but nothing really that much of a big deal, even if you dont unbend that it you wont lose any performance at all.


----------



## Rsamples

Lol i have bought many of water cooling supplies and to say this is normal and to have the channles them selfs have indentations is kinda showing who are fan boys defending it. And am sorry ill get my money back and go another route and just get a thermaltake pacific cooling kit befor i settle for a screwed up radiator from poor ass packaging.


----------



## Rsamples

guess this guy is better then i am cause his is perfect.


----------



## Laithan

Spoiler: Link to other similar complaints









Spoiler: RMA instructions



There is no way that damage occurred during shipping. Look at the box it is in. Looks like someone picked up the rad, a hand print it looks like to me. I would say that unless you route mirrors so you can stare at your rad while gaming, you'll never give a hoot after you install it. Save yourself time and aggravation and just install it and enjoy the product! It works very well and as stated above, you got a lot of product for little money in comparison. Enjoy!


----------



## Mega Man

just to clarify i am not in any way associated with swiftech.

i am for common sense

now that that is said.

i know based off your first post that _either_ of my 2 main builds have 10x the total amount of water cooling you have bought

please take the keyboard commando act somewhere else

if you need help then ask otherwise i am sure Brian will work this out


----------



## Rsamples

And maybe this was for a client that has money to blow and does not want bent up crap.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hambone07si*
> 
> You could put a fitting on the 140mm rad on the back and add a fill port to the top of your case and then it will fill properly. If you have air in your loop it will not perform as it should. You should really make sure it's full bud.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> EDIT: I guess there is only one way to find out if the increased noise will be acceptable. I will pull it apart tonight and see how it works!


Well, I pulled the h140-x out of the loop and my performance actually increased! I also have not noticed any increases in noise. Took about 5 mins to get all the air out of the loop!


----------



## sav4

looks good


----------



## MaLiXs

I've just filed out the form i'm ready to join the Club!!!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rsamples*
> 
> And maybe this was for a client that has money to blow and does not want bent up crap.


first off swiftech cannot control what happens during shipping...secondly I've dealt with bryan several times nite and he conducts the customer service very well...they ask for pictures so they have documentation when they echoed the concerns with shipping company and or to better their own processes etc...our feedback had already improved upon already great products....You obviously have not had a bad customer service experience...


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rsamples*
> 
> I would warn anyone buying from swiftech that is in need of something undamaged and expect good customer support. Received my h240-x today and what a joke of packaging and customer service. I mean i expected better for top of the line cooler. When i contacted customer service i talked to bryan only to be talked to like this stuff never happens and there packaging is so great and i had to send the pictures because i told him amd socket brackets and fan board and the screws was lose to bang around the case . So i dont expect this to be speedy at all seeing i neeed this cooler to finish my build. What a joke least the actual box was properly packaged with packing peanuts so i dont blame ups. And apparently emails take hours to receive. Here is some pictures of swiftechs top notch product packaging. Plus i in no means to bash anyone but when i pay the amount i did i expect better. Good thing i paid with paypal and i know at least i wont get screwed over. One way or another ill get this fixed.
> 
> IMG_0068.JPG 1946k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0066.JPG 1675k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0065.JPG 2010k .JPG file


I don't see how that could happen during shipping. Not only are there bends, why is there a piece of paper towel or something stuck in the rad?

Also instead of ranting, contact BramSLI. Swiftech IMO has has some of the best customer support I have dealt with. Quick to answer questions and get issues settled. It's totally normal for them to ask for photos.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> I don't see how that could happen during shipping. Not only are there bends, why is there a piece of paper towel or something stuck in the rad?
> 
> Also instead of ranting, contact BramSLI. Swiftech IMO has has some of the best customer support I have dealt with. Quick to answer questions and get issues settled. It's totally normal for them to ask for photos.


it looks like shipping issue to me...all of the components on top of and under/around the unit are supposed to be in the little slot...it looks like that one was tossed around a lot...if I had to guess mounting kit jostled loose then side got impacted and bam bent fins...as for the paper they may use it when it's leak tested at swiftech...but either way Bryan will get it taken care of...I have personally bent a few of my fins accidentally when maneuvering the h220x to bleed and the fitting mashed them up...they still have paint but I was sweating straightening them back out because it looked worse than it was...but yeah you don't expect that when you open the box do I understand the frustration I just think it's misplaced


----------



## chartiet

Stuff happens. The most bs thing about this is Swiftech and B have GREAT customer service. You get the service you deserve and ask for. If you act/come off bad or disrespectful, you'll get lesser quality. Ive dealt with B and Swiftech before, a few times, and its always been great because I treated them with respect no matter how frustrated I was. Again, I'd be disappointed, but what Swiftech has asked for is totally in line with the standard process to get you a new unit. Make of the experience what you will. Let us know when you get a new one.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rsamples*
> 
> I would warn anyone buying from swiftech that is in need of something undamaged and expect good customer support. Received my h240-x today and what a joke of packaging and customer service. I mean i expected better for top of the line cooler. When i contacted customer service i talked to bryan only to be talked to like this stuff never happens and there packaging is so great and i had to send the pictures because i told him amd socket brackets and fan board and the screws was lose to bang around the case . So i dont expect this to be speedy at all seeing i neeed this cooler to finish my build. What a joke least the actual box was properly packaged with packing peanuts so i dont blame ups. And apparently emails take hours to receive. Here is some pictures of swiftechs top notch product packaging. Plus i in no means to bash anyone but when i pay the amount i did i expect better. Good thing i paid with paypal and i know at least i wont get screwed over. One way or another ill get this fixed.
> 
> IMG_0068.JPG 1946k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0066.JPG 1675k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0065.JPG 2010k .JPG file


Again, I'm very sorry about this. It does look like the box was handled quite violently to cause that kind of damage. I still haven't received your email. Try shrinking your photos or provide them as links so that they don't take up so much space. I'm sorry for any inconvenience that this has caused you and I look forward to hearing from you soon.


----------



## delpy8

hi guys anyone know how long bacatá take to reply to EU rma questions as I think my pump has died


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Hey guys,

I am tired of my current setup and want to build a new one, which is going to be:
Phantom 820 white case
AMD FX 8350 Processor
AMD R9 290X Sapphire Vapor X Tri X GPU
Crosshair V Formula Z mobo
16 GB corsair vengeance RAM
Seasonic 750W PSU
1 HDD and 2 SSD's

I read the watercooling sticky and decided custom loops were overkill for me.
I know a Noctua DH-15 or 14 will perform nearly the same, but I can't stand how those things look. They're big and the color scheme does not match.
The colors are going to be blue white and black.
I went on to search for the best liquid cooler and came across the Swiftech H240-X.
In my opinion it looks really good and it's above average performance wise.

First question: Would there be any use in watercooling the GPU too, since the Sapphire Vapor x tri x runs pretty cool already.

Second question: If I want the color of the tubing to be white, what are the steps I need to perform? I'm guessing I would need to replace the tubing with one of these 3: http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/dange...
http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/primo... <<< I'm liking this one the best so far, don't ask me why.
http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/swift... <<< This one is used in all H220 models
(I live in the netherlands)
Which one of these 3 is the best? If there is no difference performance wise, which one looks best?

I have found a guide somewhere on how to replace the tubing, just wondering if I really do need to replace it.
Is it necessary to replace the coolant if I switch the tubing? I'm not going to use the cooler before replacing the tubing and testing it extensively.
I want to achieve tubing similar to this color wise: http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/10...
Is there any difference in UV tubing and regular tubing? Which one looks better in your opinions? (I've never seen any of them in real life)

In a different thread I read a Swiftech representative saying the coolant can be dyed. What is the use of this? If I have UV white tubing, or even the black standard one, is it going to make any difference?

I apologize for all these 'noob' questions, but it's my first time using watercooling and I want to get everything right, I'm OCD about stuff like this.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> First question: Would there be any use in watercooling the GPU too, since the Sapphire Vapor x tri x runs pretty cool already.


That's a personal preference. I water cooled my gpu because I wanted it to be silent on load. With the proper setup, a fully water cooled system can be powerful and whisper quiet. The down side it the added cost of a water block.

Once I made the switch to water cooling CPU+GPU i'll never be able to go back to air.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Second question: If I want the color of the tubing to be white, what are the steps I need to perform? I'm guessing I would need to replace the tubing with one of these 3: http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/dange...
> http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/primo... <<< I'm liking this one the best so far, don't ask me why.
> http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/swift... <<< This one is used in all H220 models
> (I live in the netherlands)
> Which one of these 3 is the best? If there is no difference performance wise, which one looks best?


Those links aren't working, but I personally use the priomchill advance LRT tubing and I didn't run into any problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> I have found a guide somewhere on how to replace the tubing, just wondering if I really do need to replace it.
> Is it necessary to replace the coolant if I switch the tubing?


As long as your new tubing is not longer than the old tubing, you do not need to replace the coolant. Others have simply drained the coolant, changed the tubing, then added the coolant back in. If you are not adding anything, then you do not need to change the tubing. Just a matter a preference.

I personally drained the coolant, flushed it, then used distilled water with some PT nuke. One think I have learned is that people opinions on what is the best coolant to use will vary TREMENDOUSLY.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> I want to achieve tubing similar to this color wise: http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/10...
> Is there any difference in UV tubing and regular tubing? Which one looks better in your opinions? (I've never seen any of them in real life)


Another broken link.
But UV tubing will react under UV lights and glow. If you want that effect, get UV tubing. If not, just get the regular colored tubing that you'd like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> In a different thread I read a Swiftech representative saying the coolant can be dyed. What is the use of this? If I have UV white tubing, or even the black standard one, is it going to make any difference?


No point in colored coolant if you are running colored tubing since you wont see it except for in your reservoir. Usually people use clear tubing with colored coolant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Thanks in advance!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> First question: Would there be any use in watercooling the GPU too, since the Sapphire Vapor x tri x runs pretty cool already.
> 
> Second question: If I want the color of the tubing to be white, what are the steps I need to perform? I'm guessing I would need to replace the tubing with one of these 3: http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/dange...
> http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/primo... <<< I'm liking this one the best so far, don't ask me why.
> http://www.highflow.nl/slangen/3-8-slangen-5-8-od/swift... <<< This one is used in all H220 models
> (I live in the netherlands)
> Which one of these 3 is the best? If there is no difference performance wise, which one looks best?
> 
> I have found a guide somewhere on how to replace the tubing, just wondering if I really do need to replace it.
> Is it necessary to replace the coolant if I switch the tubing? I'm not going to use the cooler before replacing the tubing and testing it extensively.
> I want to achieve tubing similar to this color wise: http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/xcgal/albums/userpics/10...
> Is there any difference in UV tubing and regular tubing? Which one looks better in your opinions? (I've never seen any of them in real life)
> 
> In a different thread I read a Swiftech representative saying the coolant can be dyed. What is the use of this? If I have UV white tubing, or even the black standard one, is it going to make any difference?
> 
> I apologize for all these 'noob' questions, but it's my first time using watercooling and I want to get everything right, I'm OCD about stuff like this.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


1. Its actually more efficient to watercool GPU's then cpus for performance sake. CPU's have much more room to have large hunks of metal on them to cool off, GPU's dont get that luxury.

2. Most would probably recommend Primochil Advanced LRT. Just get 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD (10mm x 16mm i think) unless you are going to pay more to change all of the fittings

3. Its recommended to change coolant if you change fittings, or at least filter it if you are going to reuse it. Cost effective way of getting coolant is just Distilled water + some form of inhibitor for anti bacterial growth.

4. UV tubing is preference. IMO not many people pull this off right because there isn't many low nm UV LED's made specifically for PC building. Most places will sell you 395-405nm wavelength UV light(really, its violet, and barely emits UV). If you want a true UV experience, the best way to show it off is buying a 365nm UV bulb from ebay(365nm is off the range of visible light, so it is indeed UV) and wiring it oneself off a Molex connector with some resistors, else there would be ALOT of light bleeding from all the excess light sources you add into the system just to get a UV effect. Do note that UV light can effect things inside a loop, and prolonged direct exposure to it can be cancerous. A good example of UV lighting between the 400 and sub 400nm wavelengths is this : https://i.imgur.com/CfGWs8k.png


----------



## Mega Man

* please note everything in California is a known cause of cancer


----------



## hypespazm

hye guys so im here trying to get the most out of my system although i need some help I want to take out somethings and add on some other things and I feel that I can get better performance.. also decided to change the tubing.. here are some current pictures of everything thats going on in my case ATM I know its really un organized but this is my first loop.. but still no excuses... well I have the h240X and a 2x120 2 1/2 inch thick radiator and another RES ...

this is what it looks like.. now this tubing I purchased at Home Depot because i bought the wrong primo chill tubing but i recently purchased the correct tubing and having lating around. NOW I also want to add an easy drain to my system.. any advice and help on making my computer perform cooler will be greatly appreciated.. here are my current photos











please help me out


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> * please note everything in California is a known cause of cancer


Including People? Psych!! LOL..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> hye guys so im here trying to get the most out of my system although i need some help I want to take out somethings and add on some other things and I feel that I can get better performance.. also decided to change the tubing.. here are some current pictures of everything thats going on in my case ATM I know its really un organized but this is my first loop.. but still no excuses... well I have the h240X and a 2x120 2 1/2 inch thick radiator and another RES ...
> 
> this is what it looks like.. now this tubing I purchased at Home Depot because i bought the wrong primo chill tubing but i recently purchased the correct tubing and having lating around. NOW I also want to add an easy drain to my system.. any advice and help on making my computer perform cooler will be greatly appreciated.. here are my current photos
> 
> please help me out


i dont understand what you are trying to do ?
i count 3 res. 1 in the h220x 2 in the pics ( one hooked up one BNIB )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> * please note everything in California is a known cause of cancer
> 
> 
> 
> Including People? Psych!! LOL..
Click to expand...

watch they will force everyone to wear signs soon !~


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> watch they will force everyone to wear signs soon !~


I'm 54, I have lived in California My whole life, this will never happen, you don't know what you are talking about on this, Mister..


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> I'm 54, I have lived in California My whole life, this will never happen, you don't know what you are talking about on this, Mister..


i think she/he was joking


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont understand what you are trying to do ?
> i count 3 res. 1 in the h220x 2 in the pics ( one hooked up one BNIB )
> watch they will force everyone to wear signs soon !~


I own 3res including the one that comes with the h240x one of which is the cylinder that is not installed. I own 2 rads one which is the 240x the other is 120x2 and is pretty thick that stands in front of my case.. I have the green RES that stands inbetween those... now I want to map out a better way to bleed and refill this. also switching the Square Res with the Cylinder Res for Refill and bleeding purposes. im just having trouble designing it and figuring it out.. because I know the pump is attatched to the h240 res and it makes it a ***** to refill and bleed while the system is standing..... I also purchased the T fitting. and I have extra 3 exta spare fittings. and if I eliminate the other green Res that would make 5 left over. but basically I want to make the cylinder res the main res for bleeding and refilling. idk if that makes sense?

edit:: can you see how the loop is . it goes h240x. cpublock-gpu-block.RAD2-res2-h240x and the reason there is so much tubing is because the other res sits upside down so that the tubes dont pinch


----------



## zoom314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont understand what you are trying to do ?
> i count 3 res. 1 in the h220x 2 in the pics ( one hooked up one BNIB )
> watch they will force everyone to wear signs soon !~


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> i think she/he was joking


That's hard to tell online without an emoticon..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> I'm 54, I have lived in California My whole life, this will never happen, you don't know what you are talking about on this, Mister..
> 
> 
> 
> i think she/he was joking
Click to expand...

correct i honestly thought i didnt need one >..> i mean .... we would all looks like this



but obviously the sign would be different

hypespazm i would limit myself to 2 res ( built in +1 ) the more res you add the more issues you can run into

basically make it look good ( placement ) then plumb it to closest ports

as the h220x is in the top of the loop and it has its own res the other res can go anywhere ( normally you have to put it right before the pump

either way you will need to fill into the res before the pump ** in your case ** and it will be filled from the h220x

** you can always fill from a higher location as long as the pump is filled with water when you turn it on, however again with your setup no matter what the highest point for you is the h220x

with mine



i can fill from the white rad ( used for demo purposes only ) as it will flow to my pump which will be in the lowest section which is not in that pic yet


----------



## ChewySphincter

hey guys, i recently purchased the h240x and had a misunderstanding as to the size of the radiator. im trying to rma it and swap it for a h220x but the guy i was emailing at swiftech has stopped responding and i suspect is now ignoring me. more to the point... does anyone know if the h220x will fit in the level 10 gt case? i got an email from thermaltake saying that the pump/reservoir would most likely be in the way of the ram. please help! also saw a guy posting on this same thread saying he had a level 10 gt but never said if he actually installed it or not or if it even fits.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChewySphincter*
> 
> hey guys, i recently purchased the h240x and had a misunderstanding as to the size of the radiator. im trying to rma it and swap it for a h220x but the guy i was emailing at swiftech has stopped responding and i suspect is now ignoring me. more to the point... does anyone know if the h220x will fit in the level 10 gt case? i got an email from thermaltake saying that the pump/reservoir would most likely be in the way of the ram. please help! also saw a guy posting on this same thread saying he had a level 10 gt but never said if he actually installed it or not or if it even fits.


the h220x pump position is designed so it doesnt interfere with ram as much, unless it was some ludicrously tall ram sticks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChewySphincter*
> 
> hey guys, i recently purchased the h240x and had a misunderstanding as to the size of the radiator. im trying to rma it and swap it for a h220x but the guy i was emailing at swiftech has stopped responding and i suspect is now ignoring me. more to the point... does anyone know if the h220x will fit in the level 10 gt case? i got an email from thermaltake saying that the pump/reservoir would most likely be in the way of the ram. please help! also saw a guy posting on this same thread saying he had a level 10 gt but never said if he actually installed it or not or if it even fits.


you bought one and want a different one ? how would that work ? you may be able to exchange at your retailer.

i dont know anything about that case sorry


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi guys anyone know how long bacatá take to reply to EU rma questions as I think my pump has died


Anyone or should I pass my RMA to Swiftech USA


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoom314*
> 
> That's hard to tell online without an emoticon..


You really need a emoticon for that.....


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Thank you very much bishop161 and Dudewitbow! My questions have been answered very thoroughly, I appreciate it a lot!
I settled on the primochill 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing (still doubting between elegant white and UV blue, but this is just personal preference)
Posting links is apparently harder than it seems.

Does it matter which reference R9 290X one purchases if it is going to be liquid cooled anyway?
The primochill tubing will come as a meter roll, so I'll have to cut it to the size I need it to be. If the length differs from the original tubing, I have to switch the coolant, if I understood correctly?
If I do change the tubing to primochill, would it be necessary to change the fittings, clamps, connectors etc? Everything is sold on highflow.nl fortunately, one rarely sees the items he needs in The Netherlands.

Thanks in advance again!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Thank you very much bishop161 and Dudewitbow! My questions have been answered very thoroughly, I appreciate it a lot!
> I settled on the primochill 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing (still doubting between elegant white and UV blue, but this is just personal preference)
> Posting links is apparently harder than it seems.
> 
> Does it matter which reference R9 290X one purchases if it is going to be liquid cooled anyway?
> The primochill tubing will come as a meter roll, so I'll have to cut it to the size I need it to be. If the length differs from the original tubing, I have to switch the coolant, if I understood correctly?
> If I do change the tubing to primochill, would it be necessary to change the fittings, clamps, connectors etc? Everything is sold on highflow.nl fortunately, one rarely sees the items he needs in The Netherlands.
> 
> Thanks in advance again!


if you have more tubing than originally came you can top it off with distilled water or de ionized water...You can reuse all of the same fittings and clamps as long as tubing is 3/8id x 5/8od....If you buy a reference model it won't matter if you buy the aftermarket models it can reduce block choices a lot....oh and be sure you get the advanced lrt primochill...no plasticizing issues


----------



## Mega Man

Don't buy deionized water. Save your money and buy distilled.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/4/


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Don't buy deionized water. Save your money and buy distilled.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/4/


only reason I mention it is because some here from other countries cannot seem to find distilled...I personally buy walmart distilled water for 94 cents a gallon lol


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Distilled water is not a problem here, plenty of it lol.
I want to combine a 240-x with a kryographics waterblock for the r9 290x.
What exactly is a reference model? Only an AMD R9 290X? Are club 3d's, sapphires, ati and asus all non reference models? (I feel like this is a very stupid question). Anyhow, will I need to add an extra radiator if I want to use the 240x to cool the CPU and the GPU?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Distilled water is not a problem here, plenty of it lol.
> I want to combine a 240-x with a kryographics waterblock for the r9 290x.
> What exactly is a reference model? Only an AMD R9 290X? Are club 3d's, sapphires, ati and asus all non reference models? (I feel like this is a very stupid question). Anyhow, will I need to add an extra radiator if I want to use the 240x to cool the CPU and the GPU?


reference midweek has the reference cooler which is a single fan blower style cooler....reference generally refers to the original layout of the pcb so some of the brand are reference pcb but not reference coolers... done companies change the layout of the pcb to fit their coolers or other reasons and those versions usually need a block specifically fit that model...for larger compatibility you want reference pcb...and yeah extra rad will be needed for best performance


----------



## crazyxelite

Hi everyone. I have finish my new build but im having problems. Cpu is overheating and i have boot_device_led on.







[/URL]


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Hi everyone. I have finish my new build but im having problems. Cpu is overheating and i have boot_device_led on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


You have no reading for CPU fan, so it means the pump isn't running(or at least reading a pwm from the CPU fan header)


----------



## crazyxelite

Swiftech never again changed my build from an fx 8320 and the problem is the same. The pump is dead just in one month never again. Avoid.


----------



## crazyxelite

Thanks for the reply bro. Yes it was giving the same problem on my amd. Never again. Waste of money and thermal paste


----------



## Thangsanity

Here's mine. H-240X w/ stock fans. I added my Titan-X so I expanded the H-240x. It was surprisingly easy, and I added a Swiftech 140mm MCRx40-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator w/ Noctua Industrial 3000RPM fan as well.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Distilled water is not a problem here, plenty of it lol.
> I want to combine a 240-x with a kryographics waterblock for the r9 290x.
> What exactly is a reference model? Only an AMD R9 290X? Are club 3d's, sapphires, ati and asus all non reference models? (I feel like this is a very stupid question). Anyhow, will I need to add an extra radiator if I want to use the 240x to cool the CPU and the GPU?


I just installed the kryographics Block on my XFX 290x DD. Most brands use the reference board layout. To be sure the EKWB site has a compatibility page that shows if a board is reference or non-reference. I would recommend adding a 240 or 360 rad to the loop.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> I just installed the kryographics Block on my XFX 290x DD. Most brands use the reference board layout. To be sure the EKWB site has a compatibility page that shows if a board is reference or non-reference. I would recommend adding a 240 or 360 rad to the loop.


Do you have additional radiators with that setup ?


----------



## OostBlokBoys

I am curious about this too. Are you using the backplate as well? I heard the AC waterblock only performs to its maximal potential when using the backplate. Is the standard tubing long enough to reach the GPU?


----------



## deme

Unfortunately, my pump started rattling 3 days ago







.At full speed it is working perfectly but at lower-medium speed I can hear it rattling. @BramSLI1


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Unfortunately, my pump started rattling 3 days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .At full speed it is working perfectly but at lower-medium speed I can hear it rattling.[/@]


That's a lot of trapped air, I would suggest try to bleed it out and fill your reservoir.


----------



## deme

I will but I have these bubbles for 1.5 month now and I have never heard the pump rattling before.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Unfortunately, my pump started rattling 3 days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .At full speed it is working perfectly but at lower-medium speed I can hear it rattling.[/@]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of trapped air, I would suggest try to bleed it out and fill your reservoir.
Click to expand...

Thats the exact same sound I got on my H220 before, I dont think its always trapped air as it was working fine for 6 months and it comes up again every 6 months after a pump replacement.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Unfortunately, my pump started rattling 3 days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .At full speed it is working perfectly but at lower-medium speed I can hear it rattling. @BramSLI1


I used to have that problem as well. It can be really hard to get all the air out of these kits, so I used the old trick with a few drops of dish washing soap. And now my pump runs so silent that I can't even hear it with my Noctua fans running very low RPM. Only downside is the foam that it produces which doesn't look so clean, but besides that it's super effective as it pushes all those tiny air bubbles to the top of the reservoir.


----------



## sav4

If it's recommended to buy a additional radiator to cool a CPU and gpu is there any point in buying a 240x over 220x ?
How much would a h240x benefit from a additional rad ?


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I used to have that problem as well. It can be really hard to get all the air out of these kits, so I used the old trick with a few drops of dish washing soap. And now my pump runs so silent that I can't even hear it with my Noctua fans running very low RPM. Only downside is the foam that it produces which doesn't look so clean, but besides that it's super effective as it pushes all those tiny air bubbles to the top of the reservoir.


Are you sure this is caused due to the trapped air? And why this is not happening when pump runs at full speed? Furthermore, as I said above, I have trapped air from the beggining and I never had that rattling noise.


----------



## Laithan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> If it's recommended to buy a additional radiator to cool a CPU and gpu is there any point in buying a 240x over 220x ?
> How much would a h240x benefit from a additional rad ?


I think you'd get into percentages, like it is around 20% better or something but it really depends on the size of the supplemental RAD. It might be more of a mounting/space consideration than performance.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> Are you sure this is caused due to the trapped air? And why this is not happening when pump runs at full speed? Furthermore, as I said above, I have trapped air from the beggining and I never had that rattling noise.


Well I can only speak for my own experience. My pump made noise as well. If you think there's more to it, RMA the kit.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> I am curious about this too. Are you using the backplate as well? I heard the AC waterblock only performs to its maximal potential when using the backplate. Is the standard tubing long enough to reach the GPU?


I am using the passive backplate with the block. I replaced all the fittings and tubing with high flow 1/2 ID. I also added a CoolGate cg360 radiator. The 290x when OC'd generates a huge amount of heat. The pump on the 220/240x is very good. It supplies good pressure and flow even with the additional block and rad.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> If it's recommended to buy a additional radiator to cool a CPU and gpu is there any point in buying a 240x over 220x ?
> How much would a h240x benefit from a additional rad ?


That all depends on how much heat is added to the loop. If the 240x fits your case the increased surface area will dissipate a bit more heat then the 220x. I use as much radiator as I can fit so I only need to run the fans 800~1200 to keep the water delta low.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastEddieNYC*
> 
> That all depends on how much heat is added to the loop. If the 240x fits your case the increased surface area will dissipate a bit more heat then the 220x. I use as much radiator as I can fit so I only need to run the fans 800~1200 to keep the water delta low.


What I'm trying to decide on is if a h240x would be enough to cool a oc 4770k and a factory oc gtx780ti without adding a rad ?

The 220x is available but the 240x is not and would cost $60 more to import when stock is available so was thinking if another rad would be needed to just go the 220x and add a 420mm rad thoughts ?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> What I'm trying to decide on is if a h240x would be enough to cool a oc 4770k and a factory oc gtx780ti without adding a rad ?
> 
> The 220x is available but the 240x is not and would cost $60 more to import when stock is available so was thinking if another rad would be needed to just go the 220x and add a 420mm rad thoughts ?


That'd be cutting it pretty darn close, don't expect to push the 4770k over 1.3v with a 780Ti in there on a single 240x, that's for sure. You'd want at least another 140mm rad, ideally a 240 if you have the space for it. That said, you can still cool the 4770k and 780Ti with a single 240x without much issues, just don't expect temps to be in the 50s or lower.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> What I'm trying to decide on is if a h240x would be enough to cool a oc 4770k and a factory oc gtx780ti without adding a rad ?
> 
> The 220x is available but the 240x is not and would cost $60 more to import when stock is available so was thinking if another rad would be needed to just go the 220x and add a 420mm rad thoughts ?


You would be able to do it like benbenkr mentioned, but do not expect any great temperatures under load.


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Okay and if one wants to add an extra 240 rad for the GPU, what extra things should be bought? Extra tubing, fittings and clamps? I am going to have a Phantom 530 which will provide plenty of space


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> What I'm trying to decide on is if a h240x would be enough to cool a oc 4770k and a factory oc gtx780ti without adding a rad ?
> 
> The 220x is available but the 240x is not and would cost $60 more to import when stock is available so was thinking if another rad would be needed to just go the 220x and add a 420mm rad thoughts ?


Yes you can do that, I've done it in fact (however I've gone away from it again). I was cooling an i7 5820K (stock speed) and a GTX 780 Ti (high OC). My temps were around the 65-70 degrees Celsius for the GPU and 45-50 for the CPU, using Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans at low RPM.

But due to complications with leaking reservoir, leaking fittings etc, I decided to air cool the CPU with a Noctua NH-D15 cooler simply because I got tired of having to disassemble my loop 3 times in a row. Now I can just switch out the graphics card with the H240-X on it, if something goes bad. It's just a win win situation for me.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> That'd be cutting it pretty darn close, don't expect to push the 4770k over 1.3v with a 780Ti in there on a single 240x, that's for sure. You'd want at least another 140mm rad, ideally a 240 if you have the space for it. That said, you can still cool the 4770k and 780Ti with a single 240x without much issues, just don't expect temps to be in the 50s or lower.


Atm I'm at 1.25v and hit temp issues so want it primarily for the CPU and gpu later if not when I upgrade it . Do these really run that cool 50 -60deg real world loads


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Yes you can do that, I've done it in fact (however I've gone away from it again). I was cooling an i7 5820K (stock speed) and a GTX 780 Ti (high OC). My temps were around the 65-70 degrees Celsius for the GPU and 45-50 for the CPU, using Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans at low RPM.
> 
> But due to complications with leaking reservoir, leaking fittings etc, I decided to air cool the CPU with a Noctua NH-D15 cooler simply because I got tired of having to disassemble my loop 3 times in a row. Now I can just switch out the graphics card with the H240-X on it, if something goes bad. It's just a win win situation for me.


So u have the d15 on the CPU and h240x on the 780ti ?
When you had it in one loop was that with only the h240x no other rads ? I thought your temps would be the other way round , you must have a fairly decent oc on it


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> So u have the d15 on the CPU and h240x on the 780ti ?
> When you had it in one loop was that with only the h240x no other rads ? I thought your temps would be the other way round , you must have a fairly decent oc on it


Yes no extra rad on the loop, and yes no water on CPU. My issues with the high temps on the GPU might have been due to a bad mount, I've remounted it since. I've ordered a special cable from Hong Kong to control the fans on the H240-X directly using the graphics card PWM connector, but I still control the pump via CPU usage though.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Yes no extra rad on the loop, and yes no water on CPU. My issues with the high temps on the GPU might have been due to a bad mount, I've remounted it since. I've ordered a special cable from Hong Kong to control the fans on the H240-X directly using the graphics card PWM connector, but I still control the pump via CPU usage though.


How does the d15 compare ?
If I added a gpu I think it would be after I upgraded, my gpu sits around 70deg heavy load and is quiet .unless I get bored and want to tinker
Are the 220and 240x within a few degrees with a large oc say 1.35v and 4.7 ?


----------



## d0mmie

D15 is fine for medium OC, but not extreme. In this case full water is recommended.


----------



## ReturnoftheMack

Hey guys, I have a question regarding the H240x. I currently have this setup with the fans and the pump plugged in to the PWM splitter that comes with the kit. What pump speed should I be running this kit at?

I would like to keep the noise level down by running the fans at around 40%. With the pump and fans plugged into the PWM splitter, i am worried this may be too low for the pump though? Are my concerns warranted and should I run the pump separately from the fans to allow for higher flow rate with lower fan speed?

Thanks for any help you can provide on this!


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReturnoftheMack*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question regarding the H240x. I currently have this setup with the fans and the pump plugged in to the PWM splitter that comes with the kit. What pump speed should I be running this kit at?
> 
> I would like to keep the noise level down by running the fans at around 40%. With the pump and fans plugged into the PWM splitter, i am worried this may be too low for the pump though? Are my concerns warranted and should I run the pump separately from the fans to allow for higher flow rate with lower fan speed?
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide on this!


You can run the pump speed at bare minimum which is 1200 RPM I believe.


----------



## ReturnoftheMack

Oh wow, ok, so that wont negatively affect temperatures? I should mention this is cooling a 4790k @4.7 1.3 volts.


----------



## ReturnoftheMack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> You can run the pump speed at bare minimum which is 1200 RPM I believe.


Also, I forgot to ask. This is on the PWM motherboard header. I have it set to 40% currently. If I set it to 0 in the software(asus motherboard), will that be the minimum for eh pump and fans, or will they literally be off? Does this question make sense?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReturnoftheMack*
> 
> Also, I forgot to ask. This is on the PWM motherboard header. I have it set to 40% currently. If I set it to 0 in the software(asus motherboard), will that be the minimum for eh pump and fans, or will they literally be off? Does this question make sense?


0% should not turn it off, itll just run at the lowest RPM possible in the factory specifications. so if the specifications is:

Pump
1200-3000 , 0% should be 1200rpm, 100% will be 3000rpm, 50% should be 2100rpm

Fans
800+/- 25% ~ 1800+/- 10% RPM , 0% is 600-1000 rpm, 100% is 1620-1980 rpm(extrema, of course realistically it'll hover in the middle), 50% would be about 1300 rpm

for confirmation, i run my pump/fans 40% up until about 60c (almost never hits this point), RPM reading is ~1928, where mathematically 40% is 1920


----------



## ReturnoftheMack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 0% should not turn it off, itll just run at the lowest RPM possible in the factory specifications. so if the specifications is:
> 
> Pump
> 1200-3000 , 0% should be 1200rpm, 100% will be 3000rpm, 50% should be 2100rpm
> 
> Fans
> 800+/- 25% ~ 1800+/- 10% RPM , 0% is 600-1000 rpm, 100% is 1620-1980 rpm(extrema, of course realistically it'll hover in the middle), 50% would be about 1300 rpm
> 
> for confirmation, i run my pump/fans 40% up until about 60c (almost never hits this point), RPM reading is ~1928, where mathematically 40% is 1920


Thats great, thanks for the reply. This really helps explain it to me. So having the pump at lower speed really wont negatively impact temps that much? I just don't want it to run too low. Thanks everyone for all of your help!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReturnoftheMack*
> 
> Thats great, thanks for the reply. This really helps explain it to me. So having the pump at lower speed really wont negatively impact temps that much? I just don't want it to run too low. Thanks everyone for all of your help!


With the fans remaining at the same speed, the speed of pump has at the very most a two to four-degree impact on temperatures.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReturnoftheMack*
> 
> Thats great, thanks for the reply. This really helps explain it to me. So having the pump at lower speed really wont negatively impact temps that much? I just don't want it to run too low. Thanks everyone for all of your help!


just dont run it too low. a good low point would just be like 20%. Increase flow rate according to how many components are in the loop

e.g martin got his cpu to throttle on 0%, but it passed 10% https://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/swiftech-h220-th-23.png?w=614 .

At that point, the fans become more important for cooling than the Pump is. the pump is just there to circulate water to the radiator to expel heat.


----------



## deme

I am running mine atm at 50% speed. From that speed the rattling noise stops


----------



## jam71

Hello , I just plugged my Swiftech H220 who (mounted in the Swiftech rma ) pump h220x , I wanted some clarification on the pump connections and ventole.Ho connected to the pump connector sata power, the small connector to the splitter ( with red cover ) and 4 fans also to the splitter and the splitter to the cpu fan card madre.Ho then set from bios that the fans go into silent mode or about 1300 rpm , the question is, but the pump goes to the same speed ' fan ? being connected to the splitter with the fans could not be handled separately ? I need these clarifications .


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hello , I just plugged my Swiftech H220 who (mounted in the Swiftech rma ) pump h220x , I wanted some clarification on the pump connections and ventole.Ho connected to the pump connector sata power, the small connector to the splitter ( with red cover ) and 4 fans also to the splitter and the splitter to the cpu fan card madre.Ho then set from bios that the fans go into silent mode or about 1300 rpm , the question is, but the pump goes to the same speed ' fan ? being connected to the splitter with the fans could not be handled separately ? I need these clarifications .


Right, with the pump and fans on the splitter there isn't a way to control them separately. In order to do that you'd have to connect the fans to a header on your motherboard or use a PWM fan controller.


----------



## guyinthecorner1

What is the easiest way to reduce the rattle of the top of my Define R4 case caused by the H220x pump and fans? It really starts to rattle when playing games such as GTA V. I have screwed it in all the way.


----------



## Laithan

Is 2.3 LPM good flow for a H140x, extra 420mm rad, 2 GPU blocks and a chipset block (no CPU)?

I am measuring with a INS-FM18D flowmeter. What is the max LPM on these MCP30 pumps?

Thank you in advance


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Hey,

I have ordered a Phantom 530 case.
I am going to install a Swiftech H240-X, does this look about right?
Yellow is the pump, orange are the rads, red are the tubes, blue is CPU, green is GPU.
I am going to add another rad to cool the GPU, 240mm.
Any tips on whether everything is placed right and the loop is correct?

I think I forgot to draw a tube from the bottom right rad to the pump, correct?
This is my first time water cooling so any help would be really appreciated


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I have ordered a Phantom 530 case.
> I am going to install a Swiftech H240-X, does this look about right?
> Yellow is the pump, orange are the rads, red are the tubes, blue is CPU, green is GPU.
> I am going to add another rad to cool the GPU, 240mm.
> Any tips on whether everything is placed right and the loop is correct?
> 
> I think I forgot to draw a tube from the bottom right rad to the pump, correct?
> This is my first time water cooling so any help would be really appreciated


Are you adding a pump ?
Is the h240x going up top ?
I would go h240x up top ,CPU ,gpu,extra rad back to h240x


----------



## OostBlokBoys

The yellow thing is the 240x, not the pump, my bad. The h240x pump should be able to supply the GPU and CPU right?
The h240x is going up top indeed, where the yellow thing is.



Is this how you would do it?
Yellow for h240x,
blue for cpu,
green for gpu,
orange for extra rad,
red for tubing


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> The yellow thing is the 240x, not the pump, my bad. The h240x pump should be able to supply the GPU and CPU right?
> The h240x is going up top indeed, where the yellow thing is.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this how you would do it?
> Yellow for h240x,
> blue for cpu,
> green for gpu,
> orange for extra rad,
> red for tubing


The pump is fine for a CPU and gpu.
Yes you can do it that way or check post 11088 there is a pic of the alternative which is h240x CPU ,extra rad ,gpu back to h240x


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> The yellow thing is the 240x, not the pump, my bad. The h240x pump should be able to supply the GPU and CPU right?
> The h240x is going up top indeed, where the yellow thing is.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this how you would do it?
> Yellow for h240x,
> blue for cpu,
> green for gpu,
> orange for extra rad,
> red for tubing


the way you have it showed is probably the cleanest...won't have 5 hoses all in the same space....the pump week handle it no problem...mines running 3 rads two gpu blocks and cpu block...as well as both res's...although I wouldn't recommend that fit long term my temps are fine...nothing over 60c under load


----------



## Caos

Hi, I'm cleaning my h220x, I see oil stains, fans pull, not radiator fluid, this is normal?
I can ask for replacement of a fan?

thanks


----------



## bishop161

Has anyone tried to modify the led on the res? I think I might switch it to red.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Has anyone tried to modify the led on the res? I think I might switch it to red.


most people have done a covering over the window to change the color...keeps warranty intact


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right, with the pump and fans on the splitter there isn't a way to control them separately. In order to do that you'd have to connect the fans to a header on your motherboard or use a PWM fan controller.


Ok thanks Bram.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> most people have done a covering over the window to change the color...keeps warranty intact


Cover it with what? A red transparent film of some sort?

This might work??


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi, I'm cleaning my h220x, I see oil stains, fans pull, not radiator fluid, this is normal?
> I can ask for replacement of a fan?
> 
> thanks


I don't see how that is possible with these fans. What we use is a grease and not an oil of the kind that appears to have either spilled on or spilled out of the fan. These are sealed at both sides under the fan hub and therefore you'd have to unseal them to have the grease seep out. Are you sure you didn't have something above the fans that could have spilled on them?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You can get oil-looking blowoff spots like that from fans just by having high humidity or grease in the air from cooking or whatnot, especially when attached to a rad which causes a temp differential which allows for such things floating in the air the opportunity to condense.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Cover it with what? A red transparent film of some sort?
> 
> This might work??


yeah something like that...when I was considering it I looked at car window tint and "cling" type materials...I would say a shade darker than you want because the brightness of the led makes medium reds look orange...if you ever used the plates on the cpu block for red you see what I mean


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I don't see how that is possible with these fans. What we use is a grease and not an oil of the kind that appears to have either spilled on or spilled out of the fan. These are sealed at both sides under the fan hub and therefore you'd have to unseal them to have the grease seep out. Are you sure you didn't have something above the fans that could have spilled on them?


Hi Bram SLI1, the strange thing is that I have three fan and only one is happened, is above the radiator and certainly not spilled anything, I had demciflex filters on top of my 750D


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi Bram SLI1, the strange thing is that I have three fan and only one is happened, is above the radiator and certainly not spilled anything, I had demciflex filters on top of my 750D


That is strange, but I just don't see how the grease that's used to lubricate the bearings in these fans could leak out like that. Not in the kind of pattern that's present on that fan. We've also never seen anything like that before with these fans.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is strange, but I just don't see how the grease that's used to lubricate the bearings in these fans could leak out like that. Not in the kind of pattern that's present on that fan. We've also never seen anything like that before with these fans.


two photos again, simply remove the protector and view it seems that the liquid left that part, this is my first fan that came with H220


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> two photos again, simply remove the protector and view it seems that the liquid left that part, this is my first fan that came with H220


Send me an email about this. My address is [email protected] Please include the photos as well and tell me where and when this was purchased. Can you also include some information about the environment in which they were used? Our engineer will likely want this information as well.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me an email about this. My address is [email protected] Please include the photos as well and tell me where and when this was purchased. Can you also include some information about the environment in which they were used? Our engineer will likely want this information as well.


ok Bram.. thanks


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Cover it with what? A red transparent film of some sort?
> 
> This might work??


Its like the same concept as using vinyl for changing the color of a car headlight except its not on a headlight, but a light on a window on a reservoir. this is just an adhesive which doesnt directly modify the unit and is rather safe overall. Just stencil out the window on paper, and cut the vinyl using the shape, apply vinyl on window and bam, colored window


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Its like the same concept as using vinyl for changing the color of a car headlight except its not on a headlight, but a light on a window on a reservoir. this is just an adhesive which doesnt directly modify the unit and is rather safe overall. Just stencil out the window on paper, and cut the vinyl using the shape, apply vinyl on window and bam, colored window


Thanks!

Decided to white/black theme my sons build. Going to change mine to Red/Black.


----------



## Phoebus

A question for the group, but especially for Bram:

I have an H220-X on order to replace my old H220. Can I use the existing H220 PWM splitter with the new H220-X? Or is the H220-X splitter different or improved in some way? I ask because I already have the old splitter set up perfectly and glued down to the back of my mobo tray, so replacing it will require some work and re-cabling. If I could just re-use the existing splitter that will make my transition much simpler.

Thanks!


----------



## smithydan

Old splitter will work fine.


----------



## Dudewitbow

theres only like 2 variations of the splitter That comes to mind, the original had molex, everything else used sata connector.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does the splitter work on 3 pin fans? I hooked four GT-Ap15 to it and it seem to only run at max rpm


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the splitter work on 3 pin fans? I hooked four GT-Ap15 to it and it seem to only run at max rpm


splitter only controls true PWM fans through pwm signal. it does not change speed for 3 pin fans(which require voltage modulation)


----------



## davepk

I just had the pump stop working on my not yet 1 week old H240X.

I leave my computer on 24/7 and the pump failed to turn on during one of my rare restarts. The fans continue to work just fine.

Upon restart the UEFI posted a CPU Fan error and immediately diving into the efi HW monitor see rising temps and zero CPU fan speed.

After reading back a number of pages here and seeing others having problems with their pumps i figured that mine was broke as well.

So, after reinstalling my old aircooler i thought i'd test it a little more before doing the RMA thing.

After messing around with PWM settings and orientation i've figured out that it nolonger starts up if i have it oriented the way i had it originally setup (Red Box).

If i orient it the "normal" way (Green Box) it starts up fine.

 Taken from install instructions.

At this point i now have the H240X reinstalled and oriented the "normal" way with the pump controlled by its own MB PWM fan control set to full speed.

One of the fans is plugged into port 1 of the splitter with the splitter plugged into the CPU fan port.

So far so good, it has successfully restarted a number of times like this.

Oddly enough the pump rpm doesn't show up in ASUS AISuite yet the aida64 sensors page and efi monitor page shows it just fine.

Ok I've investigated a bit further and it seems it was only the orientation that caused the pump to fail to start.

I now have it installed as instructed and oriented the "normal" way (Green Box) with it working properly and reporting rpm correctly.

I wonder if in the original orientation (Red Box) the pump managed to suck some debris that caused it to jam.

And, that my messing around with it dislodged it.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davepk*
> 
> I just had the pump stop working on my not yet 1 week old H240X.
> 
> I leave my computer on 24/7 and the pump failed to turn on during one of my rare restarts. The fans continue to work just fine.
> 
> Upon restart the UEFI posted a CPU Fan error and immediately diving into the efi HW monitor see rising temps and zero CPU fan speed.
> 
> After reading back a number of pages here and seeing others having problems with their pumps i figured that mine was broke as well.
> 
> So, after reinstalling my old aircooler i thought i'd test it a little more before doing the RMA thing.
> 
> After messing around with PWM settings and orientation i've figured out that it nolonger starts up if i have it oriented the way i had it originally setup (Red Box).
> 
> If i orient it the "normal" way (Green Box) it starts up fine.
> 
> Taken from install instructions.
> 
> At this point i now have the H240X reinstalled and oriented the "normal" way with the pump controlled by its own MB PWM fan control set to full speed.
> 
> One of the fans is plugged into port 1 of the splitter with the splitter plugged into the CPU fan port.
> 
> So far so good, it has successfully restarted a number of times like this.
> 
> Oddly enough the pump rpm doesn't show up in ASUS AISuite yet the aida64 sensors page and efi monitor page shows it just fine.
> 
> Ok I've investigated a bit further and it seems it was only the orientation that caused the pump to fail to start.
> 
> I now have it installed as instructed and oriented the "normal" way (Green Box) with it working properly and reporting rpm correctly.
> 
> I wonder if in the original orientation (Red Box) the pump managed to suck some debris that caused it to jam.
> 
> And, that my messing around with it dislodged it.


This has actually happened to my H240-X as well while testing for leaks after filling and removing air bubbles. When placing the unit like shown in the red box, the pump would just stop several times. Normally I run the unit in a vertical position as shown on the right side of the manual, and I have never experienced problems with the pump in this position. Not sure what to think of this, I guess it's not really an issue for me at this point.


----------



## davepk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> .... Not sure what to think of this, I guess it's not really an issue for me at this point.


Yup, I'm not sure either. The original orientation was convenient for my test bed setup.

However, I intend to permanently install it in the "normal" orientation or possibly, like you, the right side orientation.

At this point i'm hoping that what ever caused the problem wont show up with it oriented the "normal" way.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davepk*
> 
> Yup, I'm not sure either. The original orientation was convenient for my test bed setup.
> 
> However, I intend to permanently install it in the "normal" orientation or possibly, like you, the right side orientation.
> 
> At this point i'm hoping that what ever caused the problem wont show up with it oriented the "normal" way.


This is quite interesting. Do either of you have air pockets that you can see in your reservoirs?


----------



## davepk

There are no air pockets in my unit.

However, there are a few small bubbles visible when in the "original" (Red Box) orientation but they are not visible when in the "normal" orientation.

There are no sounds from air bubble movement in the system.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Cover it with what? A red transparent film of some sort?
> 
> This might work??


Here's another set http://www.amazon.com/Colored-Overlays-Tinted-Plastic-Transparent/dp/B003XX99V2/ref=pd_sbs_indust_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JJHPDPZMS63H6YANEYR


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davepk*
> 
> There are no air pockets in my unit.
> 
> However, there are a few small bubbles visible when in the "original" (Red Box) orientation but they are not visible when in the "normal" orientation.
> 
> There are no sounds from air bubble movement in the system.


Thanks for the input. I'm having our engineer look into this. We may have to modify the diagram that shows what configurations work and which ones don't.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is quite interesting. Do either of you have air pockets that you can see in your reservoirs?


Definitely not since I used a few drops of dish washing soap to help bleed out the air, which in turn seems to have made my pump very gentle in noise levels.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Definitely not since I used a few drops of dish washing soap to help bleed out the air, which in turn seems to have made my pump very gentle in noise levels.


Thank you for this information and for responding to my PM.


----------



## Agoniizing

My pump broke over a month ago and Swiftech still hasn't sent a replacement. This is my 4th RMA. I sent Bryan an email today asking why they haven't sent it out and he didn't reply. I'm very disappointed. The other 3 RMA's were a good experience. I got them fast, usually under 2 weeks.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> My pump broke over a month ago and Swiftech still hasn't sent a replacement. This is my 4th RMA. I sent Bryan an email today asking why they haven't sent it out and he didn't reply. I'm very disappointed. The other 3 RMA's were a good experience. I got them fast, usually under 2 weeks.


Is this a MCP30 pump we're talking about?


----------



## Laithan

@BramSLI1, do you recommend using a few drops of dish soap? I think it sounds like a good idea but I don't know if it introduces danger to the pump and/or impacts warranty.


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is this a MCP30 pump we're talking about?


No, H220.


----------



## NIK1

My Msi Z97 Mpower Max AC MB has intergrated chipset cooling ports that I want to incorporate in to my H240x loop.My tubeing is 3/8 by 5/8 and I was thinking of putting quick dissconect compression fittings on or put a drain valve somewhare down by my R9-290 vid card that has a Komodo R9-LE water block .The drain valve is expecially needed if I use the chipset watercooling on the mpower max ac mb.Anyone have any suggestions or should I just forget about the mb c
hipset cooling into the loop.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoniizing*
> 
> My pump broke over a month ago and Swiftech still hasn't sent a replacement. This is my 4th RMA. I sent Bryan an email today asking why they haven't sent it out and he didn't reply. I'm very disappointed. The other 3 RMA's were a good experience. I got them fast, usually under 2 weeks.


I forwarded your email to our shipping manager. I already put the replacement in a box for you after testing it. I don't handle shipping, but our shipping department has been a bit backed up lately. It should go out shortly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> @BramSLI1, do you recommend using a few drops of dish soap? I think it sounds like a good idea but I don't know if it introduces danger to the pump and/or impacts warranty.


Yes, a drop or two of dish soap won't have any adverse effects on your loop. This is an old water cooling trick that has been used for years to aid with noisy pumps.


----------



## svictorcc

Hi!
Just sharing, i did this H140-X mirror top acrylic for my casemod (buildlog in my signature):

Before:


After:


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Hi!
> Just sharing, i did this H140-X mirror top acrylic for my casemod (buildlog in my signature):
> 
> Before:


It looks good, but where's the Swiftech logo?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Hi!
> Just sharing, i did this H140-X mirror top acrylic for my casemod


nice job what did you cut it with?


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It looks good, but where's the Swiftech logo?










This time it's going to be implicit.
But if Swiftech send to me a H220-X sample i would do a great customized Swiftech acrylic logo for it








This build is going to be in a youtube videolog that i'll do later.


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> nice job what did you cut it with?


Thanks.
It was laser cut.
A friend of mine has a company that makes everything in acrylic, i did the design art in Coreldraw and sent it to him.


----------



## jfreem

Hello,

Could somebody confirm h220-x/h240-x compatibility with Thermaltake core x9? There is about 11 inches between mb and case top and I'm not sure is tubing long enough to fit in.
I don't want to make custom solution at this moment, so out-of-the-box compatibility is important for me.


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Does anyone know if the Swiftech h240x supports G.Skill Ripjaws? Some Cpu coolers have issues with clearance, does this occur with the H240x? Or am I free to pick whichever RAM I want to pick?


----------



## Phoebus

@BramSLI
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Swiftech h240x supports G.Skill Ripjaws? Some Cpu coolers have issues with clearance, does this occur with the H240x? Or am I free to pick whichever RAM I want to pick?


I have Ripjaws in my current H220 build, which I'm replacing with an H220-X today. That RAM is not particularly tall, you should be fine. But I will confirm in a few hours.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Swiftech h240x supports G.Skill Ripjaws? Some Cpu coolers have issues with clearance, does this occur with the H240x? Or am I free to pick whichever RAM I want to pick?


I use ripjawz but the cooler wont be the issue as much as your case would. My h440 fit perfectly fine but my 450D would give me a fitment issue with my motherboard since i have a z77 sabertooth. But chances are, you will be fine. It looks bigger than it actually is. and the part that makes you think its big, is actually nowhere near the ram, unless youre cramming all this in an itx case or something


----------



## Iamthebull

FYI folks Swiftech has the H220-X back in stock at least as of yesterday. Ordered mine finally.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> @BramSLI
> I have Ripjaws in my current H220 build, which I'm replacing with an H220-X today. That RAM is not particularly tall, you should be fine. But I will confirm in a few hours.


I have ripjaws as well some motherboards have the socket closer but I've yet to see one close enough to effect a waterblock hitting ram...that's usually air cooler issue...as for if you mean the unit itself that's dependant on board and case as well as mounting location


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Swiftech h240x supports G.Skill Ripjaws? Some Cpu coolers have issues with clearance, does this occur with the H240x? Or am I free to pick whichever RAM I want to pick?


It's an old pic, but as you can see I'm using the Trident X with zero issues (of which is taller and slightly wider than the normal Ripjaws X):


----------



## jam71

Hello , I wanted to know how you managed h220x Swiftech pump , connected to the sata cable and you do go to full speed or controlled with a reobus ? I now I have connected to the splitter with the fans and let manage the motherboard rpms but at best will rise ' at 1600-1800 rpm is too little ? should make it go at full speed ?
PS I apologize again for my English that many times you do not understand .


----------



## jam71

Hello , I wanted to know how you managed h220x Swiftech pump , connected to the sata cable and you do go to full speed or controlled with a reobus ? I now I have connected to the splitter with the fans and let manage the motherboard rpms but at best will rise ' at 1600-1800 rpm is too little ? should make it go at full speed ?
PS I apologize again for my English that many times you do not understand .


----------



## Phoebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoebus*
> 
> I have Ripjaws in my current H220 build, which I'm replacing with an H220-X today. That RAM is not particularly tall, you should be fine. But I will confirm in a few hours.


Confirmed, I was able to install the H220-X in my system with Ripjaws, no issues. The reservoir/pump has about a 1.25" clearance to the top of the RAM.


----------



## sav4

Is there any other parts you guys recommend buying with the h240x other than the g1/4 adapter ,is this need to expand the kit if u use the same diameter hose ?
Is the timmate any good or should I grab something else like mx-4 or gelid extreme
Primarily for CPU with gpu shortly after
Thanks in advance


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Is there any other parts you guys recommend buying with the h240x other than the g1/4 adapter ,is this need to expand the kit if u use the same diameter hose ?
> Is the timmate any good or should I grab something else like mx-4 or gelid extreme
> Primarily for CPU with gpu shortly after
> Thanks in advance


The included TIM has worked fine for me. THere are several charts you can google for TIM performance, but they are usually just +-1-5C. Not sure if it is worth the difference.

If you are trying to expand the loop, you will need (1) g 1/4 adapter that plugs into the pump, at least 4 fittings, new tubing, and some new coolant.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> The included TIM has worked fine for me. THere are several charts you can google for TIM performance, but they are usually just +-1-5C. Not sure if it is worth the difference.
> 
> If you are trying to expand the loop, you will need (1) g 1/4 adapter that plugs into the pump, at least 4 fittings, new tubing, and some new coolant.


unless you go with same diameter hose then you need block and two fittings and hose and a small amount of distilled water...and patience to bleed the air out







tubing a recommend primochill advanced lrt as it has no leeching issues....be sure you research your waterblock first







for fittings they need to be 3/8id x 5/8id (10id 16od I think metric)..


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> The included TIM has worked fine for me. THere are several charts you can google for TIM performance, but they are usually just +-1-5C. Not sure if it is worth the difference.
> 
> If you are trying to expand the loop, you will need (1) g 1/4 adapter that plugs into the pump, at least 4 fittings, new tubing, and some new coolant.


How would this exactly work?
If I were to replace the tubing with 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD, I would have to replace all the fittings. If I want to expand to a GPU loop, how many fittings would I need?
I just found a new second hand set being sold for dirt cheap,
4 meters of primochill advanced let tubing 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
10 straight fittings 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD
4 bend fittingen 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD
2 Koolance 13MM (1/2 ID - 5/8 OD) - quick disconnect- QD3-F13X16
3 sp120 corsair ventilators
2 coolermaster fans
3 1L flessen Fesser one (
2 flesje Feser VSC - Heat Carrier 500ML
4 Meter (in grote stukken) PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD - Elegant White - PFLEXA-12-W (nagenoeg nieuw)
1 flesje EK-EKoolant UV Dark Blue (nieuw)
1 fill bottle
All of this for a mere price of 40 bucks, everything is in good/new condition.
Buying 4 meters of new tubing would cost me around 40 bucks already.
Is it too much of a bother to replace the tubing size to a different one?
Would I be able to expand the loop and replace all the tubing with this set?


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> How would this exactly work?
> If I were to replace the tubing with 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD, I would have to replace all the fittings. If I want to expand to a GPU loop, how many fittings would I need?
> I just found a new second hand set being sold for dirt cheap,
> 4 meters of primochill advanced let tubing 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
> 10 straight fittings 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD
> 4 bend fittingen 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD
> 2 Koolance 13MM (1/2 ID - 5/8 OD) - quick disconnect- QD3-F13X16
> 3 sp120 corsair ventilators
> 2 coolermaster fans
> 3 1L flessen Fesser one (
> 2 flesje Feser VSC - Heat Carrier 500ML
> 4 Meter (in grote stukken) PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD - Elegant White - PFLEXA-12-W (nagenoeg nieuw)
> 1 flesje EK-EKoolant UV Dark Blue (nieuw)
> 1 fill bottle
> All of this for a mere price of 40 bucks, everything is in good/new condition.
> Buying 4 meters of new tubing would cost me around 40 bucks already.
> Is it too much of a bother to replace the tubing size to a different one?
> Would I be able to expand the loop and replace all the tubing with this set?


All the same steps are required no matter what tubing size you use. That is an absolute steal. I would scoop it up ASAP.

Once you figure out what you are going to do, then you can decide on what fittings you need.

i.e., If you add a gpu to the h240-x you will need the following:

tubing - amount depends on loop design
coolant - depends on loop
2 compression fittings or barbs for pump/rad on h240-x
swiftech g 1/4 adapter for pump
2 compression fittings or barbs for cpu block
2 compression fittings or barbs for gpu block
2 compression fittings or barbs for radiator (if you add another radiator. I run a gpu, cpu. and addition 280m rad off the pump without any problems. )
you will also need angle fittings (90+45). How many depends on the loop layout
I used a quick disconnect for bleeding/filling and it has worked great. However, that quick disconnect doesn't seem to be the same size. So it wont work with the tubing that comes with it.
Click on the picture in my sig if you want to see how I did mine.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> The included TIM has worked fine for me. THere are several charts you can google for TIM performance, but they are usually just +-1-5C. Not sure if it is worth the difference.
> 
> If you are trying to expand the loop, you will need (1) g 1/4 adapter that plugs into the pump, at least 4 fittings, new tubing, and some new coolant.


Ok thanks for the replys any recommendations on coolants ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Ok thanks for the replys any recommendations on coolants ?


I highly recommend staying away from any of the nano fluid coolants. That includes Ice Dragon and Mayhem's Pastel Ice White and Aurora line of coolants. These have some incompatibility issues with our pumps that cause them to become clogged in a very short period of time. Any other coolant that is specifically intended for PC water cooling should be fine. I also highly recommend staying away from dye additives.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I highly recommend staying away from any of the nano fluid coolants. That includes Ice Dragon and Mayhem's Pastel Ice White and Aurora line of coolants. These have some incompatibility issues with our pumps that cause them to become clogged in a very short period of time. Any other coolant that is specifically intended for PC water cooling should be fine. I also highly recommend staying away from dye additives.


Does swiftech have any coolant suitable ?


----------



## Mega Man

sure do but if you are going to buy it you could just use a biocide ~ either iandh deadwater or PTnuke and distilled water


----------



## Laithan

A while back I posted that *my clear lines now had a bit of a brown tint to them*.. I hadn't flushed all the new gear I bought, but it *was* all new except just the *little chipset block on the motherboard*..

Anyway, this weekend I took everything apart and replaced the lines (they were stained) and *I noticed the culprit.* It was the chipset block (ASUS Striker II Extreme). It looked pretty much like RUST to me. I flushed and cleaned it out as best as I could and even used a compressor to blow water through it to help clean it as well as using some Q-tips. I was able to clear it up for the most part, it came out the other side clean after a little work.

This is the block. The chipset water block 'looks' like copper, but who knows. I am really concerned because this is the same loop for my 2 GPUs also (but not CPU).


I did purchase the motherboard USED, but I have *no way to confirm if the chipset block was ever used in the past or not* at this point. I didn't shine a flashlight in there or anything (guess I should have).

*What does the community think?*
(Before you ask, I am using Distilled and PT Nuke and couple drops of dish soap)

*(1)* Do you think that there could have _*just been something left over inside*_ the chipset block *from a previous loop*, such as a dye or additive *since it is running clean out the other side now?*

*(2)* Do you think that this problem is *erosion of the material inside* and once it starts, it will just continue to 'RUST' (or whatever is causing the discoloration) and I've got bigger problems than just needing a flush?

*(3)* ??

I know I can obviously just wait a month or two and see if the discoloration occurs again but I'm worried it *may not* be something I want to "wait and see".

Thanks in advance!


----------



## dVeLoPe

i need a template of the H240-X unit from the top view so I can print it and confirm whats going on with my setup...

I own a NZXT Switch 810 case and have the H240-X mounted on the top but I cannot use all 3 fans only 2!!!!

also not very impressed with the cooling of the unit and might have to go full custom for my new i7-5820k build..

Will be wiping the CPU block clean with Artic Cleaner 2 step and using a NEW tub of Artic MX-4 instead of an OLD tube of AS5


----------



## EarlZ

Anyone with a 4790K can tell me how much temps you guys are getting at stock speeds with X264 v2 test..


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i need a template of the H240-X unit from the top view so I can print it and confirm whats going on with my setup...
> 
> I own a NZXT Switch 810 case and have the H240-X mounted on the top but I cannot use all 3 fans only 2!!!!
> 
> also not very impressed with the cooling of the unit and might have to go full custom for my new i7-5820k build..
> 
> Will be wiping the CPU block clean with Artic Cleaner 2 step and using a NEW tub of Artic MX-4 instead of an OLD tube of AS5


The Switch 810 IIRC used non standard 140mm fan spacing(20mm), as the standard is 15mm. You have to drill holes for support

as for performance, the 240x is using Swiftech's flagship CPU block and a modified version of their latest pump, the only realistic factor in affecting end temperature points is fin density to realistic fan specifications.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i need a template of the H240-X unit from the top view so I can print it and confirm whats going on with my setup...
> 
> I own a NZXT Switch 810 case and have the H240-X mounted on the top but I cannot use all 3 fans only 2!!!!
> 
> also not very impressed with the cooling of the unit and might have to go full custom for my new i7-5820k build..
> 
> Will be wiping the CPU block clean with Artic Cleaner 2 step and using a NEW tub of Artic MX-4 instead of an OLD tube of AS5


What sort of temps you getting ?
Is there a spread sheet of h240x owners with temps ect
I don't know who owns this thread but maybe we could add recommended coolants pastes ect fixes for know issues at the start of it so all the useful info is in one spot


----------



## Aussie Alex

This message is for the Swiftech team:

There aren't currently any retailers in Australia (that I'm aware of) that have the Swiftech H220-X in stock. The main retailers are all either out of stock or don't sell it. Considering you charge an exorbitantly high postage price to post to Australia direct from the Swiftech website, buying the H220-X direct is unviable as competitors closed loop coolers are available here in Australia for almost half the price when postage is taken into consideration.
My question is: When will Swiftech be selling the H220-X to an Australian retailer? Preferably Pccasegear...
This doesn't seem to make sense to me as there are twenty three million people in Australia and yet none of our retailers have the H220-X in stock...
I genuinely want to give this product a go but just can't justify spending $300 AUD having it shipped to Australia when I can pick up a similarly performing product for $200 AUD posted from Australia.


----------



## bishop161

Well I am having to redo my whole layout since the gtx980 classified is so long.

I am going to have to put my h220-x at the top and the 280mm radiator in the front.

Unfortunately, with my case, It looks like I'm going to have to mount the 280mm rad with the fill ports at the bottom instead of at the top. Since the h220-x is at the top, that is where I'm going to have to fill it. The front top.

So my question is how would I bleed this? It seems like there is going to be a huge air bubble trapped in the 280mm radiator.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> This message is for the Swiftech team:
> 
> There aren't currently any retailers in Australia (that I'm aware of) that have any of the Swiftech H220-X in stock. The main retailers are all either out of stock or don't sell it. Considering you charge an exorbitantly high postage price to post to Australia direct from the Swiftech website, buying the H220-X direct is unviable as competitors closed loop coolers are available here in Australia for almost half the price when postage is taken into consideration.
> My question is; When will Swiftech be selling the H220-X to an Australian retailer? Preferably Pccasegear...
> This doesn't seem to make sense to me as there are twenty three million people in Australia and yet none of our retailers have the H220-X in stock...
> I genuinely want to give this product a go but just can't justify spending $300 AUD having it shipped to Australia when I can pick up a similarly performing product for $200 AUD posted from Australia.


I'm in the same boat mate no stockists that I've found in Australia and I asked pccasegear if they would stock the h240x or the h220x to a reply no we won't after this batch and don't plan on doing it any time soon.
Maybe mwave or msy might do it if swiftech approach them .id happily do a eBay store for swiftech if they could ship me stock at a reasonable cost .
Just unacceptable imo at least give us a discount on shipping or something .


----------



## MaLiXs

How I can edit My sybmission !! I got another pair of fan and I'm now in push/pull config


----------



## sav4

How many Australians would be interested in either h140x 220x 240x kit and have money for one ?
Ok an update I contacted PC case gear and msy about a bulk order and I got a reply from pccasegear they have changed their mind and will be doing preorders very shortly for h240x and h220x.ya?


----------



## Aussie Alex

That's interesting because they replied to my Facebook request this-afternoon and said that they'd be stocking them again towards the end of May. So considering what PCCG are usually like and based on their promise. That means we should be seeing them in Australian hands by the start of June.

It's a shame Swiftech doesn't have realistic and competitive international shipping. If it wasn't so ridiculously expensive (after currency conversion), I'd consider paying a bit more and buy direct to get it sooner rather than later.

I just hope I don't change my mind in the meantime and get something else instead... This Cooler Master Seidon 120v pump is SO LOUD! It's by far the loudest part in my case and at 2am when there isn't any traffic on the road, it's the loudest thing in my house!


----------



## sav4

H240x up for preorder at pccasegear eta 12-6-15


----------



## Aussie Alex

That was quick. I wonder if this thread had anything to do with it? Hopefully the H220x will be up for preorder soon.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> That was quick. I wonder if this thread had anything to do with it? Hopefully the H220x will be up for preorder soon.


Maybe I have been continually emailing pccase and I think swiftech have been trying hard to get a Aussie stockist .
Just glad they are available .
these will sell like hot cakes the h220x they had sold out in just over a week.
Preorder done on a h240x ?
Now the waiting game.


----------



## Kokumotsu

Just ordered a H240X monday. hopefully ill get it tomorrow or friday =D


----------



## sav4

Anyone used the Tim mate and mx-4 with these kits ?
Any difference or just stick with the timmate


----------



## dVeLoPe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Anyone used the Tim mate and mx-4 with these kits ?
> Any difference or just stick with the timmate


i want to know the answer to this aswell as my bottle of mx4 is apparantly mia and wont be here for another week or so

have new bottle of this tim mate stuff is it NON CONDUCTIVE like mx4??


----------



## hypespazm

So i filled up my loop about a week ago all the way max as i could and i left the pc running for about 2 days and i saw the res was les than half way so I decided to fill it back up to the top and it was filled to the top for about 3 days until it started coming down... now dont get me wrong at the moment its still basically at the max line but im assuming it might come down again.... and i know i dont have any leaks. could it be vaporizing somehow? also i noticed a bit of a yellowish tint in my tubing.. what could that be? i used primo chill and alot of their biocide.. and i had 2 bottles of it in distilled water... so i highly doubt its any kind of bacteria.. any feedback would be greatly appreciated


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Anyone used the Tim mate and mx-4 with these kits ?
> Any difference or just stick with the timmate


I used Tim-Mate when I first installed my 220x. It is easy to apply and works as good as any premium paste. I have tried a few different TIM's and only Gelid GC Extreme and Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra produced slightly lower temps.


----------



## NIK1

I am redoing my tim app later today with Gelid GC Extreme.Is it better to spread it on the IHS like the directions say or is just a dot in the center suffice.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am redoing my tim app later today with Gelid GC Extreme.Is it better to spread it on the IHS like the directions say or is just a dot in the center suffice.


Just a dot in the center or a line down the middle. Spreading it on before applying the block will introduce air bubbles into the paste that will hinder the contact between the block and the IHS.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> So i filled up my loop about a week ago all the way max as i could and i left the pc running for about 2 days and i saw the res was les than half way so I decided to fill it back up to the top and it was filled to the top for about 3 days until it started coming down... now dont get me wrong at the moment its still basically at the max line but im assuming it might come down again.... and i know i dont have any leaks. could it be vaporizing somehow? also i noticed a bit of a yellowish tint in my tubing.. what could that be? i used primo chill and alot of their biocide.. and i had 2 bottles of it in distilled water... so i highly doubt its any kind of bacteria.. any feedback would be greatly appreciated


The drop in water level is to be expected as the system as the system bleeds. There is typically more air caught up in the rad and tubing than one expects. Give it another couple of days, top it off again and you should see it stay stable.

You say you used a lot of biocide....more than the recommended amount? If so, that could definitely have given some type of staining to the tubing.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The drop in water level is to be expected as the system as the system bleeds. There is typically more air caught up in the rad and tubing than one expects. Give it another couple of days, top it off again and you should see it stay stable.
> 
> You say you used a lot of biocide....more than the recommended amount? If so, that could definitely have given some type of staining to the tubing.


hmm is there any particular website to buy die from? maybe a nice color can change it? something neutral


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know where I can get some swiftech Hydrx PM 2 coolant,swiftech web site showes out of stock.Got to be something compatable out there that will not f up a H240x pump.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get some swiftech Hydrx PM 2 coolant,swiftech web site showes out of stock.Got to be something compatable out there that will not f up a H240x pump.


Swiftech said they discontinued the Hydrx PM 2


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> hmm is there any particular website to buy die from? maybe a nice color can change it? something neutral


Don't go with dyes. They have a tendency to clog the loop and components over time. We will very shortly be releasing some acrylic window replacements that will come in transparent red, blue, and green. More details regarding this will be coming out shortly, including pictures and pricing.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Don't go with dyes. They have a tendency to clog the loop and components over time. We will very shortly be releasing some acrylic window replacements that will come in transparent red, blue, and green. More details regarding this will be coming out shortly, including pictures and pricing.


ohh sounds good. i would love to hear more about that. I also had another question as to the way of filling the Reservoir. it really uncomfortable is there any other way to fill it up? or some kind of adapter instead of tilting my case sideways? just curious because it is a pain to drain and fill. since its on its side. any tips for that


----------



## dVeLoPe

this might start some controvery and ive looked but coudlnt find it yet..

anyone do a comparasion between the SWIFTECH H240-X and the DEEP COOL CAPTAIN 360!?!?!?!?!?

i am considering buying the 360 captain for my cpu and using my existing 240-X for SLI 980ti's or titans etc

but im only interested in the titan if it matchs or beats (should beat with more rad space im assuming?) my current cooler.

and if you wonder why i dont just go full custom i figure its easier to spend 150$ on a full cpu setup
and then buy 2x water blocks / water / fittings and run my swiftech pump, res, rad for my gpu setup


----------



## NIK1

Any idea when swiftech will have their new coolant out.


----------



## DoooX

I am trying to order something from your website Swiftech but I keep getting this message after I enter my PayPal data.

Server Error

We are unable to process your transaction at this time. Please wait a few minutes and try again.

What is the problem and how can I fix it ? I have enough funds on my card I am sure about it.


----------



## deehoC

Well I finally got my hands on a H240-X last night! The headaches and wait times I incurred while trying to buy this was wellllll worth it. My FX8350 is peaking at 39.4c @ 1.392v during IBT AVX rather than the 60+ it used to reach before with my old Hyper 212 Evo and my case looks a lot cleaner inside now that that gaudy chunk of metal is gone lol

Also lapped my cpu last night before installing but I didn't do as good of a job as I initially hoped for since I couldn't find 2000 and 3000 grit where I purchased the rest of my paper from and I was unable to go further at the time. Used grits ranging from 220-400-800-1000 and wetsanded from 800-1000. Only got pics after the 220 grit cuz I got caught up in the excitement of installing new goodies..

Haven't taken any good pics yet but I'll get some up tonight or tomorrow probably but in the meantime you can look at these few taken with my cell (Best camera I've got nearby, sorry folks I wish I could do better)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Well I finally got my hands on a H240-X last night! The headaches and wait times I incurred while trying to buy this was wellllll worth it. My FX8350 is peaking at 39.4c @ 1.392v during IBT AVX rather than the 60+ it used to reach before with my old Hyper 212 Evo and my case looks a lot cleaner inside now that that gaudy chunk of metal is gone lol
> 
> Also lapped my cpu last night before installing but I didn't do as good of a job as I initially hoped for since I couldn't find 2000 and 3000 grit where I purchased the rest of my paper from and I was unable to go further at the time. Used grits ranging from 220-400-800-1000 and wetsanded from 800-1000. Only got pics after the 220 grit cuz I got caught up in the excitement of installing new goodies..
> 
> Haven't taken any good pics yet but I'll get some up tonight or tomorrow probably but in the meantime you can look at these few taken with my cell (Best camera I've got nearby, sorry folks I wish I could do better)


eek definitely needs 2000 and possibly 4000







good temps though...haven't even reached the threshold where it rads properly (40c and up) I assume you ran high or very high? (I hope) standard doesn't do much







nice temps though


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> eek definitely needs 2000 and possibly 4000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good temps though...haven't even reached the threshold where it rads properly (40c and up) I assume you ran high or very high? (I hope) standard doesn't do much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice temps though


I ran very high as usual, I never run anything lower on IBT as it seems kind of counter-productive not to put significant load on it while stability testing. I really wish I coulda found higher grits but 1000 was the highest they sold and I didn't wanna drive across the city or order a pack online and have to wait. I was able to use my CPU as a miniature mirror to look around my apartment when I finished my final passes with 1000 grit so I think I did an acceptable job for my first time lapping..I just wish I took pics of it after the process was finished.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Don't go with dyes. They have a tendency to clog the loop and components over time. We will very shortly be releasing some acrylic window replacements that will come in transparent red, blue, and green. More details regarding this will be coming out shortly, including pictures and pricing.


Very interesting! This is a great idea!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> ohh sounds good. i would love to hear more about that. I also had another question as to the way of filling the Reservoir. it really uncomfortable is there any other way to fill it up? or some kind of adapter instead of tilting my case sideways? just curious because it is a pain to drain and fill. since its on its side. any tips for that


I really don't have any suggestions for you. It's just going to be difficult to bleed and there isn't really an easy way around it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Any idea when swiftech will have their new coolant out.


We're having some difficulties getting the concentrated stuff sent from our vendor overseas. Once we work out the shipping issues we'll be able to put it on sale as a separate product.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoooX*
> 
> I am trying to order something from your website Swiftech but I keep getting this message after I enter my PayPal data.
> 
> Server Error
> 
> We are unable to process your transaction at this time. Please wait a few minutes and try again.
> 
> What is the problem and how can I fix it ? I have enough funds on my card I am sure about it.


Could just have been due to a hiccup that our server was having. It should be fixed by now though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Well I finally got my hands on a H240-X last night! The headaches and wait times I incurred while trying to buy this was wellllll worth it. My FX8350 is peaking at 39.4c @ 1.392v during IBT AVX rather than the 60+ it used to reach before with my old Hyper 212 Evo and my case looks a lot cleaner inside now that that gaudy chunk of metal is gone lol
> 
> Also lapped my cpu last night before installing but I didn't do as good of a job as I initially hoped for since I couldn't find 2000 and 3000 grit where I purchased the rest of my paper from and I was unable to go further at the time. Used grits ranging from 220-400-800-1000 and wetsanded from 800-1000. Only got pics after the 220 grit cuz I got caught up in the excitement of installing new goodies..
> 
> Haven't taken any good pics yet but I'll get some up tonight or tomorrow probably but in the meantime you can look at these few taken with my cell (Best camera I've got nearby, sorry folks I wish I could do better)


We don't recommend using our Apogee XL with a lapped CPU. The reason for this is because the bow in the copper base plate works best when the CPU is also bowed. If the CPU is lapped perfectly flat then this defeats the purpose of the bow in our base plate and can hinder the performance of the entire kit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> this might start some controvery and ive looked but coudlnt find it yet..
> 
> anyone do a comparasion between the SWIFTECH H240-X and the DEEP COOL CAPTAIN 360!?!?!?!?!?
> 
> i am considering buying the 360 captain for my cpu and using my existing 240-X for SLI 980ti's or titans etc
> 
> but im only interested in the titan if it matchs or beats (should beat with more rad space im assuming?) my current cooler.
> 
> and if you wonder why i dont just go full custom i figure its easier to spend 150$ on a full cpu setup
> and then buy 2x water blocks / water / fittings and run my swiftech pump, res, rad for my gpu setup


You would have to do a little "if A outperforms B, and B outperforms C, then A outperforms C" to get that answer....but to make it easier - the H240-X outperforms the Captain 360, while the H220-X will also perform at least on par with it.

You mention the larger rad, but copper has a U-Value almost twice that of the aluminum found in the Captain's rad, and the Captain's pump only moves about half the liquid of the H220/240-X...so, it just can't keep up.

Why not just get an H220-X for your CPU for the same money? It seems kind of odd to go to a far inferior platform for absolutely no reason.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I really don't have any suggestions for you. It's just going to be difficult to bleed and there isn't really an easy way around it.
> We're having some difficulties getting the concentrated stuff sent from our vendor overseas. Once we work out the shipping issues we'll be able to put it on sale as a separate product.
> Could just have been due to a hiccup that our server was having. It should be fixed by now though.
> We don't recommend using our Apogee XL with a lapped CPU. The reason for this is because the bow in the copper base plate works best when the CPU is also bowed. If the CPU is lapped perfectly flat then this defeats the purpose of the bow in our base plate and can hinder the performance of the entire kit.


That's interesting..I doubt I made it perfectly flat but its certainly flatter than the original FX8350 before I removed the nickel. I don't think I'm seeing any adverse effects as I've checked temps with both Intel Burn Test and Prime95 now on my current settings and it seems to be doing extremely well. Unfortunately this is my only CPU so I can't test it and see how different the temps might be with a non-lapped FX8350.

Even if I mucked it up I'm still more than happy with the results I've got now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> That's interesting..I doubt I made it perfectly flat but its certainly flatter than the original FX8350 before I removed the nickel. I don't think I'm seeing any adverse effects as I've checked temps with both Intel Burn Test and Prime95 now on my current settings and it seems to be doing extremely well. Unfortunately this is my only CPU so I can't test it and see how different the temps might be with a non-lapped FX8350.
> 
> Even if I mucked it up I'm still more than happy with the results I've got now.


Intel chips tend to bow more because of the locking mechanism used on their motherboards. The effect of a lapped AMD CPU is, therefore, less than it would be on an Intel chip.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Intel chips tend to bow more because of the locking mechanism used on their motherboards. The effect of a lapped AMD CPU is, therefore, less than it would be on an Intel chip.


So I shouldn't worry too much then? That's good, thanks for the info.

I've read that it was a silly idea to lap something like the Apogee XL's heatsink since they are very flat but I figured doing my processor would be more beneficial than harmful.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> So I shouldn't worry too much then? That's good, thanks for the info.
> 
> I've read that it was a silly idea to lap something like the Apogee XL's heatsink since they are very flat but I figured doing my processor would be more beneficial than harmful.


I would have checked the block first to see how flat it is...generally you lap both together or you check both and their fitting to see what you need for good contact...but good to see it's working well for you...I'm willing to bet your block was fairly flat...those temps are good for very high...


----------



## jase78

As far as using gelid extreme goes. I've had very good results using that product with my h240x. definately dropped load temps by a lot!(5-8 c!) Not that the free Tim mate is bad By any means.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> As far as using gelid extreme goes. I've had very good results using that product with my h240x. definately dropped load temps by a lot!(5-8 c!) Not that the free Tim mate is bad By any means.


GC Extreme is an excellent TIM. However, a drop that large in temps would indicate a mounting or spread issue with the TIM Mate. It typically would only yield at most ~2 degree difference under heaviest loads. But GC Extreme is certainly much nicer to work with.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> GC Extreme is an excellent TIM. However, a drop that large in temps would indicate a mounting or spread issue with the TIM Mate. It typically would only yield at most ~2 degree difference under heaviest loads. But GC Extreme is certainly much nicer to work with.


I have heard of this Tim before but never paid attention to it... Is it better than the MX4? I am currently using that with my delidded 4670k


----------



## Dyaems

It is better than MX4.


----------



## RedIron

Is there a way to alter how fast the fans work on the H240-X cooler in the BIOS?


----------



## dVeLoPe

rather not buy another h220x because what wilil that cost me (or 240x either or case will fit it)

130ish?

for that amount couldnt i build it custom? already own a 240x WHAT EXACTLY WOULD I NEED?

another radiotor 2x or 3x sized and another resivour plus tubing/fittings and GPU blocks and THATS IT!?!?


----------



## dVeLoPe

and that being said i guess it was probably a bad idea to consider the captain in the first place i just figured it would be the easiest plug and play and done then whenever i got my next gen sli setup i would take apart my h240x and just do that as a dedicated gpu loop


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> Is there a way to alter how fast the fans work on the H240-X cooler in the BIOS?


Not if you have them connected to the splitter as shown in the instructions. The only device that reports an RPM on the splitter is the channel 1 device. When you adjust the pump on channel 1 the other connected devices will increase or decrease on the same curve.


----------



## RedIron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not if you have them connected to the splitter as shown in the instructions. The only device that reports an RPM on the splitter is the channel 1 device. When you adjust the pump on channel 1 the other connected devices will increase or decrease on the same curve.


Great, thanks!


----------



## Bootas

First thing you should do is to try to figure out what is wrong whit your caps lock


----------



## sav4

Some info on tims but not timmate
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2416714/flags/LL


----------



## t1337dude

Anyone aware of issues with Swiftech PWM splitter being incompatible with Noctua fans? Using the 8-way PWM splitter with 4 Noctua NF-A14 fans - I've had 2 Noctua fans completely die simultaneously. I've replaced the splitter and I'm seeing evidence of replacement fans failing. This is pretty disconcerting because Swiftech representatives recommended me Noctua fans as an upgrade to the included H240-X fans...

I have a separate thread here because it's a dire issue.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Anyone aware of issues with Swiftech PWM splitter being incompatible with Noctua fans? Using the 8-way PWM splitter with 4 Noctua NF-A14 fans - I've had 2 Noctua fans completely die simultaneously. I've replaced the splitter and I'm seeing evidence of replacement fans failing. This is pretty disconcerting because Swiftech representatives recommended me Noctua fans as an upgrade to the included H240-X fans...
> 
> I have a separate thread here because it's a dire issue.


I'm not sure but I've had a similar issue with mine... before it was reporting rpms just fine but now it's not reporting any rpms to my aquaero 6?? :\

I'm not sure what to do...

Also how do I know fore sure my pump is working -- if anybody knows -- on the aquaero 6? I have it connected directly to it and I switched the input to PWM but the pump section of the layout shows nothing... :|


----------



## fleetfeather

Do the newest manufactured H240-X and H220-X units come bundled with the adapter needed for G1/4 fittings? I'm trying to figure out if PCCaseGear in Australia is silly enough to stock both the H220-X and H240-X without making the adapter available


----------



## sav4

G1/4 adapter is Not bundled and at the moment don't stock it tho could change I'm thinking of ordering direct from swiftech think it worked out to $25


----------



## mistax

Less than 5 months and I think my h220x pump died. Did a bios upgrade to day and got a CPU fan error. Thought it might have killed my CPU fan slot, but I tried a different fan and it worked. Then I attach the pump seperate to another header with pwm to see if it worked and no go


----------



## svictorcc

Hi.
My rig/casemod with the h140-x is almost finish.
As a feedback i want to congratulate Swiftech, @BramSLI1 for the excelent product, specially the pump (still waiting for a h220-x sample =) ).
It's handling 3x120 rads + cpu and gpu waterblocks with good waterflow at 2.100rpm.
It's almost finish, but here are some pics (More at my buildlog, link in signature):


----------



## Dry Bonez

What is this 140x i keep hearing about? It seems like a mini cooler.


----------



## Yarrick2000

Swiftech H240-x Connected to Ek-Fc 980 and 1 x 120 mm, 1 x 240 alphacool nexXxos
What do you think about it??
Swiftech is for me one of the best company for water cooling the pump of the H240-x the MCP30 is silent and a beast


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> Swiftech H240-x Connected to Ek-Fc 980 and 1 x 120 mm, 1 x 240 alphacool nexXxos
> What do you think about it??
> Swiftech is for me one of the best company for water cooling the pump of the H240-x the MCP30 is silent and a beast
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your setup is quite nice and it makes me envious lol. I wish I had the cash/experience to do hardline tubing on my newly installed H240-X.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> What is this 140x i keep hearing about? It seems like a mini cooler.


http://www.swiftech.com/H140-X.aspx


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/H140-X.aspx


same as h2xx but 140mm rad....oh and it has the green coolant


----------



## shi0n

Hi,
First,sorry ma bad English.

I bought H220-X in Japan and I'm planning custom loop setup like this image.










But, I have a question.
How do I re-fill coolants ?








I've read this thread ... difficult ?

Can I use fill-port on case ?
or add a new reservoir tank ?(planning 5.25 bay tank)

please help me!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shi0n*
> 
> Hi,
> First,sorry ma bad English.
> 
> I bought H220-X in Japan and I'm planning custom loop setup like this image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I have a question.
> How do I re-fill coolants ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read this thread ... difficult ?
> 
> Can I use fill-port on case ?
> or add a new reservoir tank ?(planning 5.25 bay tank)
> 
> please help me!


best way would be to use a fitting on the fillport of the h220x with a length of tubing running to a fillport/bulkhead fitting with funnel attached...be sure to fill the reservoir full (to prevent pump from running dry...a dry pump is a dead pump) then jump the 24 pin cable with only the pump connected to psu to fill (this runs only the pump and not the whole pc so if you spill or have a leak its not catastrophic) then fill and let the pump circulate the coolant keeping the res full at all times until full...if you keep the flow steady enough this minimizes the amount of air you will have to bleed out...then once it's full let it run for awhile to ensure no leaks and to bleed out most of the air...tipping and rocking the case helps to dislodge any air that may be trapped...once you've gotten all the air out you can and leak tested plug the fillport on top and unjump the 24 pin cable reconnect everything and enjoy








It will take a few days of running to fully bleed out the air but you can top off with the coolant you have left...then anytime you need to fill you won't have to remove the unit every time....like I do because I'm a glutton for punishment lol


----------



## shi0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> best way would be to use a fitting on the fillport of the h220x with a length of tubing running to a fillport/bulkhead fitting with funnel attached...be sure to fill the reservoir full (to prevent pump from running dry...a dry pump is a dead pump) then jump the 24 pin cable with only the pump connected to psu to fill (this runs only the pump and not the whole pc so if you spill or have a leak its not catastrophic) then fill and let the pump circulate the coolant keeping the res full at all times until full...if you keep the flow steady enough this minimizes the amount of air you will have to bleed out...then once it's full let it run for awhile to ensure no leaks and to bleed out most of the air...tipping and rocking the case helps to dislodge any air that may be trapped...once you've gotten all the air out you can and leak tested plug the fillport on top and unjump the 24 pin cable reconnect everything and enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will take a few days of running to fully bleed out the air but you can top off with the coolant you have left...then anytime you need to fill you won't have to remove the unit every time....like I do because I'm a glutton for punishment lol


Thanks help!
Yes, I connected a fitting and tube to fillport. but what I must doing to this tube any other ?
need drill to case top?...I have no drill








move to 5.25bay?...It is may become lower than the fill port position and can't full tank...


----------



## rack04

Glacer 240L just went out in a puff of smoke. Need to find a suitable replacement.


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Your setup is quite nice and it makes me envious lol. I wish I had the cash/experience to do hardline tubing on my newly installed H240-X.


This is my first build!! I was so afraid to mees it up and brake my computer.... but you just need to be carefull and doble check everything. About the cash this was quite cheap, I used Barrow fittings that are half the prize of bitspower.
The custom loop cost me less than 100 Dollars and i was saving for it during 1 month just to do it...


----------



## svictorcc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> This is my first build!! I was so afraid to mees it up and brake my computer.... but you just need to be carefull and doble check everything. About the cash this was quite cheap, I used Barrow fittings that are half the prize of bitspower.
> The custom loop cost me less than 100 Dollars and i was saving for it during 1 month just to do it...


Just $100 custom WC system in your build?!?
Can you explain to us how is it possible, considering that only the ekwb is more than this value?
I could see 12 chromed compression fittings, only here you expent more than $50 for sure... ?


----------



## mistax

So was in a rush to get my computer up again I ended up buying a glacer 240l for 80 on clearance. I believe these is a rebranded correct? Once I get my h220x Rma done and etc I was wondering it was possible to expand the loop with the h220x and 240l, or is this impossible because the pump is on the block for the glacier 240?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shi0n*
> 
> Thanks help!
> Yes, I connected a fitting and tube to fillport. but what I must doing to this tube any other ?
> need drill to case top?...I have no drill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> move to 5.25bay?...It is may become lower than the fill port position and can't full tank...


without making a case hole you would need a plug for the tube...and hold it above while filling the fitting for the plug they make funnel that screws into g 1/4 port makes it a lot easier


----------



## ChewySphincter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you bought one and want a different one ? how would that work ? you may be able to exchange at your retailer.
> 
> i dont know anything about that case sorry


bought it from them directly online and told them it was teh srong size. the h220x is a 240mm radiator and the h240x is a 280mm radiator. the names confused me and i think that is why they allowed this. also the h220x does fit in the level 10 gt snow edition case. i just used the "alternate mounting option" and didnt change the fan layout. i kept the short middle screws and used the long ones on the ends.
i was concerned about them piercing the radiator but they only went into the radiator by like 1mm more than the short screws so idk. i tested it and it didnt leak. also the pictures of it look like the illuminated reservoir has a blue tint to it but mine has white and on the bottom corner on the left side the corner part of the plexiglass or whatever is poking out and it is illuminated as well i had to put black electrical tape on it to keep if from shining and also on the side of it shines on the rear inside of the case same fix. i was worried about the cpu block light shining too bright and being distracting but its quite mellow and doesnt shine out of the case and blind me. needs a few tweaks but other than that good cooler.

sorry for the bad grammar and long sentences long day at work









and to the other guy: you were right, i have a good inch and a half of clearance above my gskill ripjaws RAM. possibly room for RAM fans..... possibly..


----------



## Caos

Hi , I'm about to change my h220x tube , and I wonder what is the best way to remove all the liquid and also the best way to fill in again? I have to purge the air? Thank you.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> So was in a rush to get my computer up again I ended up buying a glacer 240l for 80 on clearance. I believe these is a rebranded correct? Once I get my h220x Rma done and etc I was wondering it was possible to expand the loop with the h220x and 240l, or is this impossible because the pump is on the block for the glacier 240?


if you want to use both pumps, you would be stuck either using the 240L block on the CPU, or having the block tied down somewhere else as if you used the block as a standalone pump


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svictorcc*
> 
> Just $100 custom WC system in your build?!?
> Can you explain to us how is it possible, considering that only the ekwb is more than this value?
> I could see 12 chromed compression fittings, only here you expent more than $50 for sure... ?


Sorry for mistake!! I was talking about the compresion fittings and tube. If we include the Ek waterblock is more than 100 dollars！！
currently im living in China so the fittings are not so expensive, The only thing that is overpriced is the Ek-Fc980 and Swiftech H240-x because of the import.
The total build of the watercooling loop is
Swiftech h240-x 890 yuan
Ek-Fc980 900 yuan
Barrow fittings 600 yuan
Barrow acrylic tube 10/14mm 130 yuan
XSPC EX clear UV 45 yuan
Total Yuan 2565
Total euro 394


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> Swiftech H240-x Connected to Ek-Fc 980 and 1 x 120 mm, 1 x 240 alphacool nexXxos
> What do you think about it??
> Swiftech is for me one of the best company for water cooling the pump of the H240-x the MCP30 is silent and a beast


what is that in the bottom?


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if you want to use both pumps, you would be stuck either using the 240L block on the CPU, or having the block tied down somewhere else as if you used the block as a standalone pump


ah, I assume the 220x block here would be better correct?


----------



## mistax

temperature wise though, im about 5c better than my 220x @@


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what is that in the bottom?


If you are talking about the last photo is the Apogee XL. I just remove the swiftech logo and a custom dragon sticker.
Other thing in the bottom can be the drain port or the temperature meter.


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> Sorry for mistake!! I was talking about the compresion fittings and tube. If we include the Ek waterblock is more than 100 dollars！！
> currently im living in China so the fittings are not so expensive, The only thing that is overpriced is the Ek-Fc980 and Swiftech H240-x because of the import.
> The total build of the watercooling loop is
> Swiftech h240-x 890 yuan
> Ek-Fc980 900 yuan
> Barrow fittings 600 yuan
> Barrow acrylic tube 10/14mm 130 yuan
> XSPC EX clear UV 45 yuan
> Total Yuan 2565
> Total euro 394


Edit: forgot about the alphacool
1x120 gift when I bought all the components from the same taobao shop
1x240 320 yuan


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> If you are talking about the last photo is the Apogee XL. I just remove the swiftech logo and a custom dragon sticker.
> Other thing in the bottom can be the drain port or the temperature meter.


i meant where the psu goes...i see cables coming out as if that is a case.It loos pretty sick i might add.


----------



## dVeLoPe

ok so i want to upgarde my loop

H240-X cooling an i7-5820k at the moment.

have a Swiftech MCP355 pump with PetrasTechShop DDCT-01 top adapter, swiftech MICRO resivour, and black ice labs hw 220mm radiator

what exactly do i need to add the second pump, radiator, resivour that i have to my loop?


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i meant where the psu goes...i see cables coming out as if that is a case.It loos pretty sick i might add.


The cables are coming out from the PSU to the GPU. The case is the H440 i just modify a little bit the side panel and add an acrylic panel to close the buttom of the case. Sorry for my english but im not native and i do what i can


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> temperature wise though, im about 5c better than my 220x @@


I think that I already received an email about your issue, but can you please PM me and let me know if that's the case or not? I'd like to assist you with this issue as quickly as possible.


----------



## jase78

Hey what size fittings do you guys use on the fill port? Does adding a tube here make bleeding and filling the system much easier, giving the trapped air a high point to go?


----------



## ZC4065

So it's been just over 2 months since I replaced my side window on my H220x due to cracking, and another crack has now appeared. Is this a common issue that will just keep happening? Because that isn't ideal.


----------



## NIK1

I have a H240x and a swiftech waterblock on my R290 vid card in my pc and want to put on quick dissoconnect fittings to make this easier when taking the loop apart.Anyone use these on a H220 or H240x,and if yes what kind did you put on.Any reccomendations appreciated.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> So it's been just over 2 months since I replaced my side window on my H220x due to cracking, and another crack has now appeared. Is this a common issue that will just keep happening? Because that isn't ideal.


I'm sorry to hear about this. Did the window you received the first time still have the bleed screw hole?


----------



## ZC4065

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about this. Did the window you received the first time still have the bleed screw hole?


Yes it did


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Yes it did


OK, in that case we do have new ones that no longer have the bleed screw hole. Please email me at [email protected] so that we can get you a replacement. Please also tell me if you want it in clear, green, blue or red.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, in that case we do have new ones that no longer have the bleed screw hole. Please email me at [email protected] so that we can get you a replacement. Please also tell me if you want it in clear, green, blue or red.


Any ETA on the pricing and release date of these colored windows or whatever method you're using to change the color lol? I'd love to get my hands on a blue one.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Any ETA on the pricing and release date of these colored windows or whatever method you're using to change the color lol? I'd love to get my hands on a blue one.


It shouldn't be too much longer. We're just finalizing the pictures for the website. Once that's finished, they'll be posted and pricing will be set as well.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It shouldn't be too much longer. We're just finalizing the pictures for the website. Once that's finished, they'll be posted and pricing will be set as well.


That's excellent news, thank you sir for the quick reply.


----------



## mistax

Shoutout to bram, went into to RMA my pump and he pointed out that my screen was also cracked and ended up replacing it with one of the new screens and the turn around time was quick.


----------



## VSG

How do you bleed air out if the new windows don't have the bleed screw?


----------



## arkansaswoman22

For those that have the cooler, did y'all install the mobo in the case first and then the cooler or did y'all install the cooler first and then the mobo?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> For those that have the cooler, did y'all install the mobo in the case first and then the cooler or did y'all install the cooler first and then the mobo?


Modern computer cases have cpu cutouts on the back of the case so you can do either


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Shoutout to bram, went into to RMA my pump and he pointed out that my screen was also cracked and ended up replacing it with one of the new screens and the turn around time was quick.


No problem and let me know what you think of your new window.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you bleed air out if the new windows don't have the bleed screw?


It's a little more tricky, but if you put a long piece of tubing on the fill port, you can still bleed it. It's just going to take a little more time and effort.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No problem and let me know what you think of your new window.
> It's a little more tricky, but if you put a long piece of tubing on the fill port, you can still bleed it. It's just going to take a little more time and effort.


or remove it from the case


----------



## nado4ilhas

If you change the CPU block for this model below, with 3 gentle typhon AP15 + gelid extreme, the temps should improve further?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo/ek-supremacy-evo-elite-edition-intel-115x.html
coolant
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-pastel-blue-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## sav4

New coloured windows look good no need for dyes ? . It would be good to be able to pick which colour you want prior to purchase so you still have warrenty.
Does anyone have a scale drawing of the reservoir window ?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No problem and let me know what you think of your new window.
> It's a little more tricky, but if you put a long piece of tubing on the fill port, you can still bleed it. It's just going to take a little more time and effort.


sorry, but even with the long fill tube it's tricky to bleed using the screw. I'd vote damn near impossible without. At least on a loop like mine with multiple GPU and extra rad. It would have to be added somewhere else in the loop like a drain valve or some such thing.


----------



## Mega Man

hahaha both my main loops take months to bleed, yes months !~


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hahaha both my main loops take months to bleed, yes months !~


that's because you live for overkill lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> sorry, but even with the long fill tube it's tricky to bleed using the screw. I'd vote damn near impossible without. At least on a loop like mine with multiple GPU and extra rad. It would have to be added somewhere else in the loop like a drain valve or some such thing.


this is why it's important to try and keep everything full to prevent a lot of air in...and I've bled mine a lot without using the screw at all...it's just tedious getting the air pocket just so...


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's because you live for overkill lol


im not going to lie, its taken me over a month to bleed my system and every single time I bleed my performances get alot better than betteryou would thinkg it wont take any more water welp your wrong lol especially if you have 2 rads like i do


----------



## Dudewitbow

it doesn't take me much to bleed my 120mm + 240mm radiator loop on the original h220. Ive had to do it 3 times so far, where the first one was the only one that took a long time(because first time into watercooling), where your only option for bleeding is the fillport itself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> New coloured windows look good no need for dyes ? . It would be good to be able to pick which colour you want prior to purchase so you still have warrenty.
> Does anyone have a scale drawing of the reservoir window ?


We aren't offering to install these on new kits prior to shipping. I'm sorry about that. If you have any questions concerning this though, please PM me because we might be able to work something out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> sorry, but even with the long fill tube it's tricky to bleed using the screw. I'd vote damn near impossible without. At least on a loop like mine with multiple GPU and extra rad. It would have to be added somewhere else in the loop like a drain valve or some such thing.


Yes, for expanded loops, bleeding will be more difficult. This is true for full-custom loops as well though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hahaha both my main loops take months to bleed, yes months !~
> 
> 
> 
> that's because you live for overkill lol
Click to expand...

Or do you not live for enough cooling?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> it doesn't take me much to bleed my 120mm + 240mm radiator loop on the original h220. Ive had to do it 3 times so far, where the first one was the only one that took a long time(because first time into watercooling), where your only option for bleeding is the fillport itself.


Try 5-7 360/480s


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or do you not live for enough cooling?
> Try 5-7 360/480s


that could be it....then again I don't have quad anything









Edit: well quad modules...that doesn't count though lol


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or do you not live for enough cooling?
> Try 5-7 360/480s


when the day i have disposable income, I may as well do it all the way with full Rigid setup. But that's not happening in a long time because still a student


----------



## bishop161

It can be a real pain i've realized to bleed this system if you do not have the right fill/drain ports. I have redesigned my layout to make the fill/drain port at the top/bottom of my loop. I've also made sure that my 280mm rad was in an orientation where it wouldn't trap much air.

This is my first run in with watercooling, but I really dont know how some people bleed their systems with all the crazy runs. The only thin I can imagine is to have a few drain/fill ports on the rads and res to help fill it from several locations.


----------



## benbenkr

Regarding bleeding, uhm... basically just place the casing (considering it's a standard ATX here) on its rear so the fill port is facing up. Pop the front panels of the casing open and bleed away.

There's no need to use the bleed screw really. I'd advise against using the bleed screw in fact because it is so easy to develop a crack around the hole.


----------



## BramSLI1

I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'll just leave this here http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx.


I need this. My tint job didn't go so well.. You can barely see through it.

Is there a bleed hole + screw on the windows that are shipping? I see there isn't one on the ones pictured.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> I need this. My tint job didn't go so well.. You can barely see through it.
> 
> Is there a bleed hole + screw on the windows that are shipping? I see there isn't one on the ones pictured.


Agreed









Really not looking to take my loop apart right now, but one of these in blue is calling my name.

No bleed hole + screw on the new windows. I think BramSLI1 said they were changing the design due to some people having issues with cracks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LOKI23NY*
> 
> Agreed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really not looking to take my loop apart right now, but one of these in blue is calling my name.
> 
> No bleed hole + screw on the new windows. I think BramSLI1 said they were changing the design due to some people having issues with cracks.


Yes, that's right. These don't have the bleed screw holes.


----------



## OostBlokBoys

Can the pump handle two extra GPU's, the 290x water-cooled?
How big would the extra rad have to be to cool two 290x's?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OostBlokBoys*
> 
> Can the pump handle two extra GPU's, the 290x water-cooled?
> How big would the extra rad have to be to cool two 290x's?


Yes, the pump can handle these added components. I would think that you would need at least a 3 x 120.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the pump can handle these added components. I would think that you would need at least a 3 x 120.


I use to cool a 290x with only a 120mm rad. It really wasn't enough. Using a AiO (i think nzxt variant) with a 1150mhz core I would get into the 60s. SO with the extra flowrate of the swiftech and the extra 60mm of rad, I think a 360 would work. While you could get by with a 120mm, I would go bigger.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

I added a CoolGate 360 rad to cool my 290x. The pump on the 220x easily handled the extra block and rad. My load temps never go over 46c on the vid card.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

CPUfanerror.png 66k .png file

Hi guys, I don't know if anyone here is encountering this problem like I am with my H220X, but I am getting a cpu fan error of 0 rpm from my asus suite. I don't know why this is popping up but as of now my watercooler is still working but I'm not using the rig right now. Im on a i7 3770k not oc yet on a asusp8z77v-pro. I installed the h220x a week ago and everything was fine. Quiet/and solid temps. This same type of problem happen to my old h220 and eventually the pump died and the cpu fan rpm was right about it being completely idle at 0 RPMs. I really like this watercooler and IMO I think it looks the best in the market too and I would hate to switch to a different watercooling company. Would anyone have an idea on why this is happening. I also tested this 0 cpu fan rpm nonsense with my old stock cooler and everything was fine. So I don't think it is my motherboard. I messaged the swiftech team and I know they will eventually reply to me because their service and customer support is actually really good. But I just can't wait and I want to know why this is happening. here is a pic on my asus suite shows


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> CPUfanerror.png 66k .png file
> 
> Hi guys, I don't know if anyone here is encountering this problem like I am with my H220X, but I am getting a cpu fan error of 0 rpm from my asus suite. I don't know why this is popping up but as of now my watercooler is still working but I'm not using the rig right now. Im on a i7 3770k not oc yet on a asusp8z77v-pro. I installed the h220x a week ago and everything was fine. Quiet/and solid temps. This same type of problem happen to my old h220 and eventually the pump died and the cpu fan rpm was right about it being completely idle at 0 RPMs. I really like this watercooler and IMO I think it looks the best in the market too and I would hate to switch to a different watercooling company. Would anyone have an idea on why this is happening. I also tested this 0 cpu fan rpm nonsense with my old stock cooler and everything was fine. So I don't think it is my motherboard. I messaged the swiftech team and I know they will eventually reply to me because their service and customer support is actually really good. But I just can't wait and I want to know why this is happening. here is a pic on my asus suite shows


Try running the fan benchmsrk on aisuite,as that sumtimed gives it a kickstart. if not,then something def going on.try thst first cuz something similar happened with my h220x.


----------



## bishop161

My final build layout.
Changes:

Added red tint to glass
Upgraded from gtx 770 to classified gtx 980
moved 3x120mm fans to in between the case and grill
drilled a 1" hole under the fill/drain port to make life easier.








change cpu block plate to red


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> My final build layout.
> Changes:
> 
> Added red tint to glass
> Upgraded from gtx 770 to classified gtx 980
> moved 3x120mm fans to in between the case and grill
> drilled a 1" hole under the fill/drain port to make life easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> change cpu block plate to red


tint looks good


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Try running the fan benchmsrk on aisuite,as that sumtimed gives it a kickstart. if not,then something def going on.try thst first cuz something similar happened with my h220x.


Yeah thanks for the advice but it's still not working for me . I had it working for a week but since yesterday morning it keeps showing up as 0 fan rpm. The same type of things happened to my 1 year old h220 and eventually the pump died . Any other suggestions ?


----------



## jase78

I got a question. Has anyone tried adapting automotive vacum kits such as; a mighty vac to a tube leaving the fill port and vacuuming the air out? How does swiftech bleed these units at their factory?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I got a question. Has anyone tried adapting automotive vacum kits such as; a mighty vac to a tube leaving the fill port and vacuuming the air out? How does swiftech bleed these units at their factory?


That would not work. The vacuum would not see the difference between liquid and air, and would only cause negative pressure in the loop which would likely collapse the tubes.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That would not work. The vacuum would not see the difference between liquid and air, and would only cause negative pressure in the loop which would likely collapse the tubes.


not only that the pressure would likely take more water than air...I don't think you would be happy if you tried this


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Yeah thanks for the advice but it's still not working for me . I had it working for a week but since yesterday morning it keeps showing up as 0 fan rpm. The same type of things happened to my 1 year old h220 and eventually the pump died . Any other suggestions ?


Do you notice your temperatures spiking when this happens? Also, have you tried plugging the pump PWM connector directly into your motherboard and not using the included splitter?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I got a question. Has anyone tried adapting automotive vacum kits such as; a mighty vac to a tube leaving the fill port and vacuuming the air out? How does swiftech bleed these units at their factory?


We use an air compressor with a set of lines that are configured to be closed off prior to filling. What this does is it removes all of the air from the kit and then when the lines are switched over for filling the whole kit is filled instantly by the vacuum. This isn't something that you'd easily be able to do at home because it would require a valve for monitoring the pressure (the radiators are rated at 15psi so if you go over that it will damage the water channels), and lines that can be closed and opened to maintain the vacuum prior to filling.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you notice your temperatures spiking when this happens? Also, have you tried plugging the pump PWM connector directly into your motherboard and not using the included splitter?
> We use an air compressor with a set of lines that are configured to be closed off prior to filling. What this does is it removes all of the air from the kit and then when the lines are switched over for filling the whole kit is filled instantly by the vacuum. This isn't something that you'd easily be able to do at home because it would require a valve for monitoring the pressure (the radiators are rated at 15psi so if you go over that it will damage the water channels), and lines that can be closed and opened to maintain the vacuum prior to filling.


that's interesting...so basically filled the same way they do heat pipes on coolers...good read...also that pressure is a good tidbit to know if someone decided to test the loop with air first...although most guides on this state to stay under 10 psi...I would like to see an actual picture of this setup...be sweet to fill an entire loop this way


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you notice your temperatures spiking when this happens? Also, have you tried plugging the pump PWM connector directly into your motherboard and not using the included splitter ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Do you notice your temperatures spiking when this happens? Also, have you tried plugging the pump PWM connector directly into your motherboard and not using the included splitter?
> 
> Hi Bram, I have tried plugging the pump directly to the motherboard cpu fan header and I still have no luck . But my temperatures are still good as it was a week ago . Idling around 24c to 45c at load


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi Bram, I have tried plugging the pump directly to the motherboard cpu fan header and I still have no luck . But my temperatures are still good as it was a week ago . Idling around 24c to 45c at load


OK, that tells me that the pump is working. What fan header did you have this plugged into and have you tried plugging it into others? Can you also tell me what motherboard this is?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> OK, that tells me that the pump is working. What fan header did you have this plugged into and have you tried plugging it into others? Can you also tell me what motherboard this is?


I had the pump plugged into channel fan 1 on the fan splitter, and the fan splitter was plugged into my cpu fan header on the motherboard, and I also tried plugging the pump to the cpu fan header on the motherboard. The motherboard is a ASUS p8Z77-v-PRO. When I was on my downtime with the H220, I had the stock cpu cooler on this motherboard for about a month when I waited for the H220X and in that time frame I never had the cpu fan 0 RPM warning, so I don't believe it's the motherboards fan header.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I had the pump plugged into channel fan 1 on the fan splitter, and the fan splitter was plugged into my cpu fan header on the motherboard, and I also tried plugging the pump to the cpu fan header on the motherboard. The motherboard is a ASUS p8Z77-v-PRO. When I was on my downtime with the H220, I had the stock cpu cooler on this motherboard for about a month when I waited for the H220X and in that time frame I never had the cpu fan 0 RPM warning, so I don't believe it's the motherboards fan header.


Have you checked the connector to make sure that the metal pins are fully seated? Also, have you tried plugging it into an auxiliary fan header on your motherboard to see if you at least get an RPM reading?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Have you checked the connector to make sure that the metal pins are fully seated? Also, have you tried plugging it into an auxiliary fan header on your motherboard to see if you at least get an RPM reading?


Hi again, I checked the connector and everythign was seated correctly. I then tried plugging it into system fan 1 and cpu opt fan headers and I still do not have a reading for rpm for the both of them. I have just question, Is this safe for my pump to have 0 rpm fan reading ? I know it's working right now because my t emperatures are great, but would this harm the pump itself later down the road ? I had a similar issue with the H220 after a year usage it started doing this and while testing different headers and then testing the tips I got from swiftech help, the pump eventually stopped working and my temps hits 70s while I was following their instructions.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi again, I checked the connector and everythign was seated correctly. I then tried plugging it into system fan 1 and cpu opt fan headers and I still do not have a reading for rpm for the both of them. I have just question, Is this safe for my pump to have 0 rpm fan reading ? I know it's working right now because my t emperatures are great, but would this harm the pump itself later down the road ? I had a similar issue with the H220 after a year usage it started doing this and while testing different headers and then testing the tips I got from swiftech help, the pump eventually stopped working and my temps hits 70s while I was following their instructions.


This is a very different pump from the one we were previously using with the H220. With that pump the power was delivered on the same connector as the PWM signal for RPM monitoring and control. Therefore, with the older pump if there was an issue with RPM adjustment or control then it could have caused an issue with the pump eventually. This isn't the case with these new MCP30 pumps because the power and PWM connector are separate. Therefore, this issue shouldn't cause any issues with the normal operation of the pump in the long run.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is a very different pump from the one we were previously using with the H220. With that pump the power was delivered on the same connector as the PWM signal for RPM monitoring and control. Therefore, with the older pump if there was an issue with RPM adjustment or control then it could have caused an issue with the pump eventually. This isn't the case with these new MCP30 pumps because the power and PWM connector are separate. Therefore, this issue shouldn't cause any issues with the normal operation of the pump in the long run.


Oh okay, that is definitely good to hear. Sorry if I sound a bit impatient but are there any other ways of finding out the problem with this Fan RPM reading? Would it be possible if I connected the pwm fan to channel 1 on the fan splitter and then the pump on the second channel to see if I get a RPM reading ? Or would that not work ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Oh okay, that is definitely good to hear. Sorry if I sound a bit impatient but are there any other ways of finding out the problem with this Fan RPM reading? Would it be possible if I connected the pwm fan to channel 1 on the fan splitter and then the pump on the second channel to see if I get a RPM reading ? Or would that not work ?


That would work, but you'll only get a reading for the fan because only channel 1 reports an RPM. My suggestion would be to try plugging the pump into another motherboard to see if it's just a motherboard issue.


----------



## jase78

Well if he would use any pwn fan in both cpu and cpu opt and get an rmp reading wouldn't that rule out the headers?

And I was wondering how swiftech vacuum filled these kits. Thanks for the info bram. Just wish we could fill them in this manner without spending a fortune on equiptment.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Well if he would use any pwn fan in both cpu and cpu opt and get an rmp reading wouldn't that rule out the headers?
> 
> And I was wondering how swiftech vacuum filled these kits. Thanks for the info bram. Just wish we could fill them in this manner without spending a fortune on equiptment.


Testing them on both the CPU and CPU Opt headers won't necessarily tell you anything if the controller for those headers has failed or is having an issue with a particular PWM signal range. On most motherboards the CPU and CPU Opt headers are handled by the same controller.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Testing them on both the CPU and CPU Opt headers won't necessarily tell you anything if the controller for those headers has failed or is having an issue with a particular PWM signal range. On most motherboards the CPU and CPU Opt headers are handled by the same controller.


Hi Bram, I tested the watercooler on my older I7 860 with an Asus P7P55D and I got the same problem with Cpu fan error. And I tried putting the pump on cpu fan opt but it's the same controller as u said, and system fan 1 still has the same problem. Could it be that the pump might not be compatible with older ASUS motherboards ?
Thanks for taking the time to help me out on this situation.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi Bram, I tested the watercooler on my older I7 860 with an Asus P7P55D and I got the same problem with Cpu fan error. And I tried putting the pump on cpu fan opt but it's the same controller as u said, and system fan 1 still has the same problem. Could it be that the pump might not be compatible with older ASUS motherboards ?
> Thanks for taking the time to help me out on this situation.


hmmm,interesting.i have been following this just now.Interesting indeed. But out of curiosity,what is your cpu? and what is your ambient? you have some pretty low temps tbh.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi Bram, I tested the watercooler on my older I7 860 with an Asus P7P55D and I got the same problem with Cpu fan error. And I tried putting the pump on cpu fan opt but it's the same controller as u said, and system fan 1 still has the same problem. Could it be that the pump might not be compatible with older ASUS motherboards ?
> Thanks for taking the time to help me out on this situation.


No, not to my knowledge. The PWM headers should be of the same Intel design specification on all of them. I'm still leaning towards it simply being an issue with the connector. Can you try wiggling it while it's connected to see if you get any kind of intermittent signal?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hmmm,interesting.i have been following this just now.Interesting indeed. But out of curiosity,what is your cpu? and what is your ambient? you have some pretty low temps tbh.


I have an I7 3770k stock speeds. I was planning on overclocking the cpu this weekend but then this happened unfortunately. I am getting my temperature readings from REAL TEMP heres a picture too. My gaming setup is in the basement so I'm not sure what My ambient is, but I know for my main level the temperature is 70F so 20 or 21 C. My basement is a bit colder too so that might be the reason

cputemp.png 53k .png file


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I have an I7 3770k stock speeds. I was planning on overclocking the cpu this weekend but then this happened unfortunately. I am getting my temperature readings from REAL TEMP heres a picture too. My gaming setup is in the basement so I'm not sure what My ambient is, but I know for my main level the temperature is 70F so 20 or 21 C. My basement is a bit colder too so that might be the reason
> 
> cputemp.png 53k .png file


That's at idle, so it really doesn't tell me anything. What you should be able to do is set a thermal limit in your BIOS that will notify you when the processor is overheating. You will then be able to overclock safely. To get around the BIOS issue you can also put a fan on your CPU header so that you no longer get the CPU fan error message. I'm having our engineer look into this to see what he says.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's at idle, so it really doesn't tell me anything. What you should be able to do is set a thermal limit in your BIOS that will notify you when the processor is overheating. You will then be able to overclock safely. To get around the BIOS issue you can also put a fan on your CPU header so that you no longer get the CPU fan error message. I'm having our engineer look into this to see what he says.


Hi Bram, so I tried wiggling around the connector and nothing is happening, but I thought it would give it a try with the other fan headers on my motherboard and I still do not get a connection. I know pump and fan splitter are connected to sata power but could it be that this is using too much power? cuz my other PWM fans get a reading and i know that the Silver stone Air penetrators use less power.
once again, thanks for the quick replies


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi Bram, so I tried wiggling around the connector and nothing is happening, but I thought it would give it a try with the other fan headers on my motherboard and I still do not get a connection. I know pump and fan splitter are connected to sata power but could it be that this is using too much power? cuz my other PWM fans get a reading and i know that the Silver stone Air penetrators use less power.
> once again, thanks for the quick replies


wait,u have an asus board right? under bios, you should be able to go to boot settings and disable q control.or that wont have any effect?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi Bram, so I tried wiggling around the connector and nothing is happening, but I thought it would give it a try with the other fan headers on my motherboard and I still do not get a connection. I know pump and fan splitter are connected to sata power but could it be that this is using too much power? cuz my other PWM fans get a reading and i know that the Silver stone Air penetrators use less power.
> once again, thanks for the quick replies


No, this wouldn't have anything to do with power because the power and PWM control are separate on this pump.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi Bram,
I know you have an engineer from your team looking at this issue, so I won't try to be pestering you as much until you guys can figure what might be the cause, but since my PWM on the pump isn't working would that mean it would be at full speed max RPMS at all times? and if so, Would that harm the pump in any way ? Would just like to make sure nothing else could go wrong that is..
Thanks,
Brandon


----------



## BramSLI1

I don't think that you'll have any control over it since it's not reporting an RPM. It therefore is just running at full speed. This won't hurt it because these were designed just like our MCP50X pumps and they can run at speeds of up to 4500 RPM. The only difference is the electronics. I'll let you know what our engineer has to say when I hear back from him.


----------



## nado4ilhas

want for the h220x in push-pull, what better way drawing the first or second ??


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nado4ilhas*
> 
> want for the h220x in push-pull, what better way drawing the first or second ??


What size fan are you planning on putting below?


----------



## nado4ilhas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> What size fan are you planning on putting below?


gentle typhoon ap 15


----------



## sterob

i am new to watercooling and google fu shows me that H240X is customisable

- Is it possible to add another GPU block to the loop? so the water will run from pump > cpu > gpu > rad. And what do i need to (tube? fitting?)
- Between adding another GPU and buying 2 separate AIO watercooler like corsair H90 and make them cool cpu and gpu separately which one will be better?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterob*
> 
> i am new to watercooling and google fu shows me that H240X is customisable
> 
> - Is it possible to add another GPU block to the loop? so the water will run from pump > cpu > gpu > rad. And what do i need to (tube? fitting?)
> - Between adding another GPU and buying 2 separate AIO watercooler like corsair H90 and make them cool cpu and gpu separately which one will be better?


definitely one loop will be less hassle...to expand h2xx series for gpu you need tubing (3/8id x 5/8od) the water block and at least two fittings (compression fittings are my recommendation)...and some distilled water to to things off (save the coolant that's in the kit and add what you need to fill...then bleed and enjoy...obviously water Bloch the card as well







if you worry about pump failure another pump can be added separately (2nd res is a good idea if you get a second pump)...but definitely not required the h series pump is very capable


----------



## Caos

finally change the tube and the liquid from my h220x, work hard to purge.


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

I bought a Cooler Master Glacer 240l V2 a about 2 weeks ago from Microcenter for 100 bucks. It's cooling a 4690K at 4.4 Ghz at 1.25v very nicely in my secondary rig.


----------



## Danbeme32

Little upset.. I saw a lot of bubbles in the res so I thought it just needed a little bit of distilled water. But when I looked closer I saw a crack on the window..







Now I have to get other heat sink while I send this back for repair.


----------



## runelotus

My NZXT Source 210 modded to Accept the Swiftech H220x


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Has anyone heard of/had a ground wire on their H220 catch fire? I recently turned my PC on and noticed the pump making a different noise then all of a sudden smoke and burning rubber/electronic smell engrossed the room. I just took it all the way apart and the jacket on the black (I'm assuming ground wire) melted right where it goes into the motor housing.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> Has anyone heard of/had a ground wire on their H220 catch fire? I recently turned my PC on and noticed the pump making a different noise then all of a sudden smoke and burning rubber/electronic smell engrossed the room. I just took it all the way apart and the jacket on the black (I'm assuming ground wire) melted right where it goes into the motor housing.


twas the cause of my second RMA in december(was a 2nd gen h220 pump iirc, newest one is the latest)

http://i.imgur.com/n0Z3LEK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NXKRKCf.jpg

while the gens that come to mind are:
1st: one hole on impeller
2nd: 3 holes on impeller
3rd: Sata cable sticking out of block so that block receives power directly from PSU rather than receiving it from 4 pin header

there may or maynot have been generations inbetween these.


----------



## zila

Yeah, the same thing happened to mine. Got it rma'd and was sent a new style cable that plug into the pump. Swiftech support was awesome.









Edit: this might be a good time to upgrade the pump to a MCP50X. Bram told me it was possible and he would even walk me through the procedure. It's something I'm considering for next year's upgrades.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sterob*
> 
> i am new to watercooling and google fu shows me that H240X is customisable
> 
> - Is it possible to add another GPU block to the loop? so the water will run from pump > cpu > gpu > rad. And what do i need to (tube? fitting?)
> - Between adding another GPU and buying 2 separate AIO watercooler like corsair H90 and make them cool cpu and gpu separately which one will be better?


Entire depends upon you.

Since you are new, if you have a separate loop for the GPU that might be better since you dont need to take down the whole thing if you change/RMA gpu's but I cant imagine how the tubes would look clean,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Little upset.. I saw a lot of bubbles in the res so I thought it just needed a little bit of distilled water. But when I looked closer I saw a crack on the window..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to get other heat sink while I send this back for repair.


This is really becoming concerning, Swiftec please step up the quality control!


----------



## benbenkr

^Indeed.

The fact that the window is also the new version without the bleed screw/hole makes it all the more concerning. Sorry Swiftech, you guys need to get down to the bottom of this already. It's been many months since reports started!


----------



## Iamthebull

Got my H220-X Installed using AP-2150's in my CM 692 going with push down install. Stock clocked 8350 at 100% the peak temps I have seen are 38C. Great cooler!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iamthebull*
> 
> Got my H220-X Installed using AP-2150's in my CM 692 going with push down install. Stock clocked 8350 at 100% the peak temps I have seen are 38C. Great cooler!


now time to make it perform like a champ







head here if you need help or just want to







http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/49290#post_23899035


----------



## darkangelism

Is this glass cracking issue something to worry about and should avoid buying this cooler?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelism*
> 
> Is this glass cracking issue something to worry about and should avoid buying this cooler?


No, it isn't. There are some people though who are paranoid about these types of things, but the new annealed acrylic that we're using is much stronger than is even necessary. So far we've only seen one of these crack and it was likely due to just being screwed in too tight on one of the corners.


----------



## darkangelism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it isn't. There are some people though who are paranoid about these types of things, but the new annealed acrylic that we're using is much stronger than is even necessary. So far we've only seen one of these crack and it was likely due to just being screwed in too tight on one of the corners.


Thanks.


----------



## d0mini

Hi,

I just received and installed an h220x into my Corsair 380t in a sideways orientation, see picture



There are bubbles visible on the top of the reservoir and a bubbling noise that I've recorded in this video:




Will this noise go away after leaving it on for a while, or does something else need to be done, like topping up the reservoir?

I though it would be fine in this orientation, the only orientation warned of using was having it upside down.. When it is held in place as it would be if it was top-mounted in a standard case the noise goes away, but in the orientation I have to have it in it makes this noise.


----------



## redshoulder

Where did you buy this unit? Im thinking of buying it somewhere in Europe also how about an RMA if it is defective?

The noise is caused by air bubbles in the loop, it should settle after a few days, you can speed this up by tilting the case. However this comes from custom loop experience on another note how do you bleed this thing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just received and installed an h220x into my Corsair 380t in a sideways orientation, see picture
> 
> 
> 
> There are bubbles visible on the top of the reservoir and a bubbling noise that I've recorded in this video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will this noise go away after leaving it on for a while, or does something else need to be done, like topping up the reservoir?
> 
> I though it would be fine in this orientation, the only orientation warned of using was having it upside down.. When it is held in place as it would be if it was top-mounted in a standard case the noise goes away, but in the orientation I have to have it in it makes this noise.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> Where did you buy this unit? Im thinking of buying it somewhere in Europe also how about an RMA if it is defective?
> 
> The noise is caused by air bubbles in the loop, it should settle after a few days, you can speed this up by tilting the case. However this comes from custom loop experience on another note how do you bleed this thing?


Thank you, I will wait a few more days and see if it persists. I got it from highflow, here's a link:
http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx

Delivery was fast and there was no damage or anything.. The box it came in was labeled as a container for a southern fried food substance and inside the actual H220x box was a chupachup lollypop, which honestly didn't make for the most professional of appearances, but it got to me in one piece..


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, it isn't. There are some people though who are paranoid about these types of things, but the new annealed acrylic that we're using is much stronger than is even necessary. So far we've only seen one of these crack and it was likely due to just being screwed in too tight on one of the corners.


What do I need to do to get the window replaced on mine.My concern will be if it gets worst on me..


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> There are bubbles visible on the top of the reservoir and a bubbling noise that I've recorded in this video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will this noise go away after leaving it on for a while, or does something else need to be done, like topping up the reservoir?
> 
> I though it would be fine in this orientation, the only orientation warned of using was having it upside down.. When it is held in place as it would be if it was top-mounted in a standard case the noise goes away, but in the orientation I have to have it in it makes this noise.


You could do what I was told here. Top it off with distilled water as I had the same problem to get rid of that bubble.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> What do I need to do to get the window replaced on mine.My concern will be if it gets worst on me..


PM me about this and we'll go from there. Please tell me where you purchased this kit from and also where you're located in your response.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> You could do what I was told here. Top it off with distilled water as I had the same problem to get rid of that bubble.


That's what I intend to do if the pump does not settle. Did topping it up work for you?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> That's what I intend to do if the pump does not settle. Did topping it up work for you?


It worked for a bit but I have to do it again as I didn't get all the bubbles out.. But the noise went away..


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> That's what I intend to do if the pump does not settle. Did topping it up work for you?
> 
> 
> 
> It worked for a bit but I have to do it again as I didn't get all the bubbles out.. But the noise went away..
Click to expand...

Thank you, very good to know







I will be trying to fill it through the bleed screw, probably with a syringe


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Thank you, very good to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be trying to fill it through the bleed screw, probably with a syringe


No, that's not what the bleed screw was meant to be used for. I actually recommend that you leave it alone because too many have either broken theirs or tightened too much and ended up cracking the acrylic. Top it off through the fill port in the top of the radiator.


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Thank you, very good to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be trying to fill it through the bleed screw, probably with a syringe
> 
> 
> 
> No, that's not what the bleed screw was meant to be used for. I actually recommend that you leave it alone because too many have either broken theirs or tightened too much and ended up cracking the acrylic. Top it off through the fill port in the top of the radiator.
Click to expand...

I've tried to open the fillport with a large flathead screwdriver, it did not budge. What should I be using to open it?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I've tried to open the fillport with a large flathead screwdriver, it did not budge. What should I be using to open it?


That's what we also use here and they can be a little difficult to open, but you should be able to open it.


----------



## Mega Man

and that is why i like this one and imo all plugs should have
http://www.swiftech.com/g1-4plugs.aspx


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and that is why i like this one and imo all plugs should have
> http://www.swiftech.com/g1-4plugs.aspx


I use my man hands







mine wasn't super torqued though to be fair...it shouldn't be so tight you can't loosen it if it is I feel for that poor gasket


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I use my man hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine wasn't super torqued though to be fair...it shouldn't be so tight you can't loosen it if it is I feel for that poor gasket


I like to think I have man hands, still, this is one tough gasket.. Might try using pliers









EDIT

The pliers worked, and after some trial and error I managed to get rid of almost all the bubbles, no more noise







Loving the temps this cooler is giving me so far!


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering I have my H240x exhausting air out the top of my Cosmos 2 case.I have my R290 vid card under water with a Swiftech waterblock and a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120mm in the loop exhausting out the back.Do you think it would be any better if I change the fans on the 240x to run as intake since the Alphacool is exhausting right underneath it.With both top 240x fans and the rear rad so close to each other will they not both fight for air.I might test it later and switch the 240 to intake and see if temps are any differant.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just wondering I have my H240x exhausting air out the top of my Cosmos 2 case.I have my R290 vid card under water with a Swiftech waterblock and a Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120mm in the loop exhausting out the back.Do you think it would be any better if I change the fans on the 240x to run as intake since the Alphacool is exhausting right underneath it.With both top 240x fans and the rear rad so close to each other will they not both fight for air.I might test it later and switch the 240 to intake and see if temps are any differant.


I think it depends on what other fans you have in the front/side of the case. If you have several other fans pushing air in, then it probably one make that much of a difference.


----------



## Durtmagurt

Hi so Im looking to expand my h220x with 2 swiftech r9 komodos and I know the pump isn't good enough for all this but if I added a swiftech mcr140x? you think it could work?
So I'd have my loop go from h220x to CPU to mcr140x to both GPUs and back up to the h220x?
I'm sure my case is big enough it being the corsair 800d


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> Hi so Im looking to expand my h220x with 2 swiftech r9 komodos and I know the pump isn't good enough for all this but if I added a swiftech mcr140x? you think it could work?
> So I'd have my loop go from h220x to CPU to mcr140x to both GPUs and back up to the h220x?
> I'm sure my case is big enough it being the corsair 800d


The added pump can handle that, but you don't have enough radiator surface area. I would think that you'd need to add an additional 3 x 120mm radiator to aid with heat dissipation.


----------



## Durtmagurt

Alright thank you I don't think I'd be able to fint a 3x120 but probably a 2x140 on the bottom with some modification. Thank you for your response


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> Alright thank you I don't think I'd be able to fint a 3x120 but probably a 2x140 on the bottom with some modification. Thank you for your response


A dual 2 x 140 should just about cut it.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> Hi so Im looking to expand my h220x with 2 swiftech r9 komodos and I know the pump isn't good enough for all this but if I added a swiftech mcr140x? you think it could work?
> So I'd have my loop go from h220x to CPU to mcr140x to both GPUs and back up to the h220x?
> I'm sure my case is big enough it being the corsair 800d


Just a forewarning, I tried to use an h220x and mcr140x in the same loop. It is an absolute nightmare to bleed.

I would try two separate loops. One for the gpu and one for the cpu.

Maybe h220x at the top and connected to the cpu. Then go mcr140x to dual gpu to 2x140 on the bottom. Just trying to save you from the headache.


----------



## bishop161

Bram,

I was also wondering why when you open the fill screw there is a piece of metal there instead of direct access into the res? Seems like this turn makes it harder for me to top it off.


----------



## Durtmagurt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Just a forewarning, I tried to use an h220x and mcr140x in the same loop. It is an absolute nightmare to bleed.
> 
> I would try two separate loops. One for the gpu and one for the cpu.
> 
> Maybe h220x at the top and connected to the cpu. Then go mcr140x to dual gpu to 2x140 on the bottom. Just trying to save you from the headache.


Dam maybe I'll just sell the h220x and go with a new loop cause I dunno how I feel about splitting up my loop thanks for the warning!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Bram,
> 
> I was also wondering why when you open the fill screw there is a piece of metal there instead of direct access into the res? Seems like this turn makes it harder for me to top it off.


what you are speaking of is the fillport...the bleed screw would be on the acrylic window if you have the older version the new version doesn't have a bleed screw...also I always though it was designed this way so the return didn't cause turbulence...and so the res could be integrated seamlessly


----------



## Durtmagurt

Nothing can ever be that easy lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> Bram,
> 
> I was also wondering why when you open the fill screw there is a piece of metal there instead of direct access into the res? Seems like this turn makes it harder for me to top it off.


that piece of metal is part of the copper plenums of the radiator. To achieve the compact design of this kit, and maintain optimum performance, there just wasn't any other way to do this.


----------



## d0mini

I understand that we should not use it, but what is the actual purpose of the bleed screw in the acrylic window? What would be the right method of using it, described in layman's terms?

Just trying to figure out this whole custom loop thing







it's more involved than a CLC, but I am more than prepared for that, that's why I bought this cooler


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I understand that we should not use it, but what is the actual purpose of the bleed screw in the acrylic window? What would be the right method of using it, described in layman a terms?
> 
> Just trying to figure out this whole custom loop thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's more involved than a CLC, but I am more than prepared for that, that's why I bought this cooler


It was put there with the intention that it could be used to help purge air out of kit during filling. In other words, it would cut down on bleed time. The safest way to use the bleed screw is to utilize a small, flat head screwdriver and turn it carefully just a couple of turns so that it will allow air to escape when you're filling it. Then once the kit is bled, you'll just turn it with the same care so as not to break the head off of it or crack the acrylic.

We removed it completely because the hole in the acrylic had a tendency to be a weak point that would crack. This isn't true for all kits that have the bleed screw though. Also, we realized that it's not difficult to break the head of the screw off either and thus it was decided to just remove it completely from the latest revision of the kit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I understand that we should not use it, but what is the actual purpose of the bleed screw in the acrylic window? What would be the right method of using it, described in layman a terms?
> 
> Just trying to figure out this whole custom loop thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's more involved than a CLC, but I am more than prepared for that, that's why I bought this cooler


its supposed to be screwed out to allow air to escape and assist with bleeding the air out...in my experience it didn't work all that well...after I noticed cracks and bram sent me I window I decided wth and used a syringe with a small tip to force.water in and air out to assist in my last bleeding...it worked well but if your window is fine I probably wouldn't risk it...although that did make getting that little but of air out extremely easy


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> its supposed to be screwed out to allow air to escape and assist with bleeding the air out...in my experience it didn't work all that well...after I noticed cracks and bram sent me I window I decided wth and used a syringe with a small tip to force.water in and air out to assist in my last bleeding...it worked well but if your window is fine I probably wouldn't risk it...although that did make getting that little but of air out extremely easy


Funny, I had the exact same idea







might not do it though if it turns out not to be necessary, I am apprehensive about cracking the res..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Funny, I had the exact same idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might not do it though if it turns out not to be necessary, I am apprehensive about cracking the res..


yeah mine was already cracked and replacement was on the way so I said hrmmm...I had never removed it before then because I had read here about the screws being brittle...this was before people started finding cracks...im wondering if the pump vibrations have anything to do with these cracks...it's ironic a few people had them crack due to weather conditions during shipping then more people started seeing them...but all in all it hasn't been a whole lot of cases I count like six or so from here..two or three of those were shipping cold related...mine doesn't leak yet so I haven't replaced it yet...I did try to use it for its intended purpose after the fact and it wasn't very useful even with the screw all the way out (I tried it at three stages of being out)...but if the possibility of cracking wasn't an issue syringe method it's glorious...with a paper towel you can fill in the air bubble with water and as long as the kit is running it won't overflow any until you force the last little bit of air out...I've been wondering if this could have been remedied with a metal insert and an actual metal screw with a little gasket maybe? This could have been out in without threads into the window perhaps even heat pressed in...I dunno just brainstorming


----------



## Aussie Alex

Do you think the 240X's radiator is enough to cool both my i7 4790k and GTX970?
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## t1337dude

It seems like my H240-X pump is stealing my PWM signal from my Noctua fans. All my fans seem to work just fine (all at once or one at a time), unless my pump is introduced to the equation. As soon as I unplug my the pump from my PWM splitter, all of my fans work again. When the pump is plugged in, my fans think they're receiving a PWM signal of 0%.

Only if I had two PWM mobo headers









I've tried using a splitter on my single CPU header, one that leads to the pump, and one that leads to the splitter with the fans, and that doesn't seem to do the trick. I mean, it works, but it's just occasional. It's really picking about how it's positioned in my case. Just bumping it can cause the fans to turn all on or off (but only with the pump plugged in). The Swiftech fans seem to work even while the Noctua fans don't work. I tried two different types of Noctua fans (because that's what I own). I've tried two different splitters and it's the same thing on both.

Anyone here have luck using their Noctua fans with their splitter?


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> It seems like my H240-X pump is stealing my PWM signal from my Noctua fans. All my fans seem to work just fine (all at once or one at a time), unless my pump is introduced to the equation. As soon as I unplug my the pump from my PWM splitter, all of my fans work again. When the pump is plugged in, my fans think they're receiving a PWM signal of 0%.
> 
> Only if I had two PWM mobo headers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried using a splitter on my single CPU header, one that leads to the pump, and one that leads to the splitter with the fans, and that doesn't seem to do the trick. I mean, it works, but it's just occasional. It's really picking about how it's positioned in my case. Just bumping it can cause the fans to turn all on or off (but only with the pump plugged in). The Swiftech fans seem to work even while the Noctua fans don't work. I tried two different types of Noctua fans (because that's what I own). I've tried two different splitters and it's the same thing on both.
> 
> Anyone here have luck using their Noctua fans with their splitter?


You sure the pump is plugged into the right pwm header?

I'm using all noctua pwm fans (3 x NF-F12 and 3 x NF-A14). I've never had a problem with mine.


----------



## baconboys

I just got a 140x and the splitter is doing the same thing, the pump works fine and the fans don't work at all. I tried the splitter off my h 320 and it all works. Might be a bad batch of splitter out there?


----------



## Durtmagurt

So I wanna add 2 GPU blocks to a h220x. I know I need another pump and more radiators but can't put my finger on placement. I'd prefer not to start all over and make a new loop. If possible Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated? I have the corsair 800d case.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> You sure the pump is plugged into the right pwm header?
> 
> I'm using all noctua pwm fans (3 x NF-F12 and 3 x NF-A14). I've never had a problem with mine.


The pump should work in any PWM header.

If you're not having problems, I'm beginning to believe I have a faulty pump. If I use a basic 2-way PWM fan splitter hooked into my CPU fan slot, plug the pump in, and then any Noctua fan - any Noctua fan plugged into the other free PWM slot will completely turn off.

This issue shouldn't be confused with an insufficient PWM signal either. If a fan doesn't receive a PWM signal, it runs at 100%. My issue is that my fans begin to run at 0%. My H240-X's pump is somehow overtaking the PWM signal and making everything else PWM not work, no matter how I split the signal.

Previously I was using the Noctua fans with the H240-X for 6 months and had no issues. Now I'm running into consistent issues, and changing out my splitters hasn't seem to help in any way.

EDIT: If there was something I could buy that just lets me send the pump a low % PWM signal without having to be attached to my CPU port, that'd be fantastic...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> I just got a 140x and the splitter is doing the same thing, the pump works fine and the fans don't work at all. I tried the splitter off my h 320 and it all works. Might be a bad batch of splitter out there?


I've used two Swiftech 8-Way splitters - and they both behave the same for me. One splitter gave me slightly better luck, but it only lasted for a week. Then I tried using a regular 2-way PWM splitter, attempting to use the pump and a single Noctua fan, and I've had no luck with either. In my case it seems like it would have to the pump - that's the only variable I can isolate in terms of incompatibility with my fans. The splitter works with my fans beautifully with the pump unplugged...and if the pump was working properly, it should be able to grab a PWM signal from my CPU without shutting everything else out.

There's really got a be a way to solve this problem without me having to eat $120 in sunk costs purely due to fan incompatibility issues. I've done a lot of Googlefu, and I've never read anyone who's experienced their PWM signal being stuck at 0%.

Initially I was under the impression the Swiftech splitter didn't like my NF-A14 3000RPM editions, but my Noctua NF-S12A fan is exhibiting the same symptoms. I've been asking around on forums for over a month and still haven't found a solution. I'm surprised I haven't run into a single person who knows much about PWM signals and what might cause them to conflict or get stuck at 0%. I'm stuck right now with my Helix140's sitting on top of my case, pulling out the hot radiator air through my non-active fans. I'd switch them out but it's quite a project in my small Corsair 450D case. I'd rather just get to the bottom of the problem and cut as little losses as I need to.


----------



## bishop161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> The pump should work in any PWM header.
> 
> If you're not having problems, I'm beginning to believe I have a faulty pump. If I use a basic 2-way PWM fan splitter hooked into my CPU fan slot, plug the pump in, and then any Noctua fan - any Noctua fan plugged into the other free PWM slot will completely turn off.
> 
> This issue shouldn't be confused with an insufficient PWM signal either. If a fan doesn't receive a PWM signal, it runs at 100%. My issue is that my fans begin to run at 0%. My H240-X's pump is somehow overtaking the PWM signal and making everything else PWM not work, no matter how I split the signal.
> 
> Previously I was using the Noctua fans with the H240-X for 6 months and had no issues. Now I'm running into consistent issues, and changing out my splitters hasn't seem to help in any way.
> 
> EDIT: If there was something I could buy that just lets me send the pump a low % PWM signal without having to be attached to my CPU port, that'd be fantastic...
> I've used two Swiftech 8-Way splitters - and they both behave the same for me. One splitter gave me slightly better luck, but it only lasted for a week. Then I tried using a regular 2-way PWM splitter, attempting to use the pump and a single Noctua fan, and I've had no luck with either. In my case it seems like it would have to the pump - that's the only variable I can isolate in terms of incompatibility with my fans. The splitter works with my fans beautifully with the pump unplugged...and if the pump was working properly, it should be able to grab a PWM signal from my CPU without shutting everything else out.
> 
> There's really got a be a way to solve this problem without me having to eat $120 in sunk costs purely due to fan incompatibility issues. I've done a lot of Googlefu, and I've never read anyone who's experienced their PWM signal being stuck at 0%.
> 
> Initially I was under the impression the Swiftech splitter didn't like my NF-A14 3000RPM editions, but my Noctua NF-S12A fan is exhibiting the same symptoms. I've been asking around on forums for over a month and still haven't found a solution. I'm surprised I haven't run into a single person who knows much about PWM signals and what might cause them to conflict or get stuck at 0%. I'm stuck right now with my Helix140's sitting on top of my case, pulling out the hot radiator air through my non-active fans. I'd switch them out but it's quite a project in my small Corsair 450D case. I'd rather just get to the bottom of the problem and cut as little losses as I need to.


What I was referring to was the right port on the splutter. The pump should be plugged into the pwm head that had the red cap on it. It is labeled ch. 1.

If not, then i'm stumped. Again, i'm using all noctua fans and they have full pwm functionality using the included splitter.


----------



## VSG

Are you guys controlling via PWM % or RPM? Also note that the PWM duty cycle and RPM response curves of the pump and fans may be different. This is why I was recommending people have the pump and fans on separate headers if possible.

If in PWM signal (%) control mode, then there's still something wrong as the fans should have some response no matter what.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are you guys controlling via PWM % or RPM? Also note that the PWM duty cycle and RPM response curves of the pump and fans may be different. This is why I was recommending people have the pump and fans on separate headers if possible.
> 
> If in PWM signal (%) control mode, then there's still something wrong as the fans should have some response no matter what.


It's that last part that has me concluding that it can't be the pump. Even if the fans receive no PWM signal they should simply default to full speed. The pump doesn't draw power from the splitter either, so that can't be the issue. It receives power directly from the SATA power connector that's plugged directly into the PSU. There is something strange going on here and I'll have to discuss this with our engineer tomorrow when I get back into work.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bishop161*
> 
> What I was referring to was the right port on the splutter. The pump should be plugged into the pwm head that had the red cap on it. It is labeled ch. 1.
> 
> If not, then i'm stumped. Again, i'm using all noctua fans and they have full pwm functionality using the included splitter.


All that port is used for is reading the PWM response from whatever device is attached to it - it has nothing to do with anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's that last part that has me concluding that it can't be the pump. Even if the fans receive no PWM signal they should simply default to full speed. The pump doesn't draw power from the splitter either, so that can't be the issue. It receives power directly from the SATA power connector that's plugged directly into the PSU. There is something strange going on here and I'll have to discuss this with our engineer tomorrow when I get back into work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are you guys controlling via PWM % or RPM? Also note that the PWM duty cycle and RPM response curves of the pump and fans may be different. This is why I was recommending people have the pump and fans on separate headers if possible.
> 
> If in PWM signal (%) control mode, then there's still something wrong as the fans should have some response no matter what.


I'm controlling via %.

Yes, there's something very wrong. I'm just not sure what. You guys are really quick to assume that if the fans worked, they'd run at 100% PWM. Nothing about my problem indicates that there's any truth to that assumption. The fans work perfectly. They just don't work with the pump plugged in. *How exactly can the issue not be the pump if the pump is the only thing causing everything else to not function properly? The fans are clearly doing what they're designed to do. My pump, on the other hand, isn't supposed to be causing shared PWM signals to be dropped when it's plugged in.* The problem clearly isn't the splitter because this problem occurs with any splitter I try to use with the pump.

If other people are using Noctua fans (and I used them fine previously for 6 months)... what exactly are my specific Noctua fans doing now that they weren't doing over the 6 previous months that's causing the problem? And why aren't other people experiencing the same issue as me? If I used the Helix140 fans that came with the H240-X exclusively, I'd have no problems. Unfortunately I have 4 other PWM fans in my case that need a PWM signal to be controlled, and I'm simply not going to outfit my case with 6 Helix fans. I need PWM functionality and better air/noise ratio from my case fans. Frankly, if I knew the H240-X was incompatible with various Noctua fans, I probably wouldn't have even bought it. I could at least use Noctua fans on my Corsair H80i with no issues. I bought the H240-X thinking I was getting something highly customizable - not something that ceases to work as soon as I slightly customize it by switching out the fans.

Quick rundown of the core characteristics of my issue:

- Problem didn't arise until 6+ months of use.
- When problem began to occur, two of my Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM fans died simultaneously, had to RMA for replacements
- The problem disappears depending on how the Swiftech splitter sits within my case. If I wiggle the 8-way PWM splitter a certain way, everything works just fine, temporarily. At first when I figured this out, I could wiggle the PWM splitter and it would work fine for a week, but after that week went up, I'd wiggle it again, and then it would work only for a a day. After that day passed, I'd have to wiggle the splitter again, and it would then work for a few hours. I personally feel like this is the biggest "clue". For what reason would the splitter's orientation and positioning in my case have an effect on the fans properly receiving a signal?
- I opened up the 8-way PWM splitter which first started displaying the issue. There are no signs of damage to anything on the splitter's circuit board or wires. It looks good as new.
- Problem occurs with two very different models of Noctua fans (one model is "industrial", made for heatsinks and can run at very high speeds, the other is a very low-speed PWM case fan).

I found a user who experienced a similar issue. The difference between his issue and mine is that his fans would behave more predictably in the event of an insufficient PWM signal (his fans would run at 100%). But once he added a PWM signal booster into the equation, he could only get his fans working at 0% or 100%. It doesn't appear he ever solved his problem in his thread.


----------



## msgclb

I'm sad to announce that the pump on my H220 that I purchased just over two years ago has failed.

This H220 has been running almost constantly since it was originally installed in 2013 but I've now removed the unit and installed an air cooler.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> I'm sad to announce that the pump on my H220 that I purchased just over two years ago has failed.
> This H220 has been running almost constantly since it was originally installed in 2013 but I've now removed the unit and installed an air cooler.


Could you give any details about the failure? Was it something that happened all at once? Or was the pump behaving oddly before it went out? I'm just curious so I know what to look for in case if it were to happen to myself.


----------



## kurei

So I got my H220x after international shipping and customs delays and I must say. For all of the quality that shines through on the Radiator and the CPU block, The mounting is a pain in the neck. I had to have someone hold the backplate in place before the block could be aligned and the screws pushed through. A good 20C difference on my load temps from the H80i I was using before this. I'm using Shin Etsu X23-7783D as TIM
I got the CPU Fan Error when I booted it up after installation but my temps were good and I could feel the pump Vibrating and my temps were Okay so I felt that It had to be the splitter. My motherboard has CPU, CPU Opt, ChassisFan 1,2,3 headers so I took the PWM Splitter out of the loop and set it up like this

PUMP - CPU Fan Header + Sata for Power
Swiftech Fan 1 - CPU OPT Header
Swiftech Fan 2 - Chassis Fan 1
Rear 140mm Fan on CM Stryker - Chassis Fan 2
PWM Splitter Only Sata Power connected and Apogee XL LED connected to one of the PWM headers.

All the fans and the Waterblock LED Work Fine and I can control them through BIOS or SpeedFan but I'm concerned I might draw too much current from my Mobo and wreck it by driving two 120 mm and 1 140 mm fans from it. Its a Maximus VI Hero. Is that possible or am I worrying too much. Right now The only thing the PWM Splitter is doing is relaying power to my waterblock LED. Is their a way I can take the PWM Splitter out of the loop completely and Power up the LED through something Else (Perhaps a LED Header on Motherboard or Tapping into the LED Wires on the Case LEDs. Will a Direct Connector that I can make from Taking a SATA Power Female And only using V+ and ground from it to a LED Female Connector work?)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nah
> 
> swiftech has had the best mounting for years * SEE MARTINS LIQUID LAB * now at https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/5/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech has always been a leader in regards to easy and precision retention systems and has been incorporating really great designs for quite some time
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/i7-3930k-cpu-swiftech-apogee-hd/2/
> The Swiftech Mounting System is the simply the ultimate 2011 mounting system out there by a long shot, prescribed pressure + 1 component easy mount!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> however it just has a learning curve ( maybe add the mounting instructions to the OP of the h220 club ? )
> 
> really easy, either temporarily tape ( electrical tape works ok ) the back plate in or, as i do either take a rag/towel/pillow behind the mobo/mobo tray and lay it on the rag/towel/pillow then screw it in, i can mount a swiftech block in less then 1 min
> 
> FYI i hate the tape method !~
> 
> this works for both AMD and intel.
Click to expand...


----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.


----------



## jase78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurei*
> 
> Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.


check your cables that came with your power supply. Mine came with a molex to 4pin PWM fan connector adapter


----------



## msgclb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> I'm sad to announce that the pump on my H220 that I purchased just over two years ago has failed.
> This H220 has been running almost constantly since it was originally installed in 2013 but I've now removed the unit and installed an air cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you give any details about the failure? Was it something that happened all at once? Or was the pump behaving oddly before it went out? I'm just curious so I know what to look for in case if it were to happen to myself.
Click to expand...

This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!


----------



## Tikiman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!


Mine just went out over the weekend too.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!


Interesting. I'm sorry for your loss.

I'm suspecting I'm experiencing a completely different pump issue. It's not with the pump directly, but for me it has to be with its connections or maybe wiring. I don't know what else the possibility it is if it's interfering with any non-Swiftech fans attempting to share the PWM signal. Tested it with a simple Y-Splitter. Even the Noctua NF-S12A, which uses a quarter of the power of the Helix 140, mysteriously sticks to 0% PWM with the pump plugged in. I really wish I knew why other people are having no issues using non-Swiftech fans. I suppose I could try buying the very specific models cited here, but I'm pretty sure most of their fans use the same PWM technology and it wouldn't make a difference. And even if I did buy a regular NF-A14 and I confirmed it didn't work either - then what do I do? Kick rocks?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Interesting. I'm sorry for your loss.
> 
> I'm suspecting I'm experiencing a completely different pump issue. It's not with the pump directly, but for me it has to be with its connections or maybe wiring. I don't know what else the possibility it is if it's interfering with any non-Swiftech fans attempting to share the PWM signal. Tested it with a simple Y-Splitter. Even the Noctua NF-S12A, which uses a quarter of the power of the Helix 140, mysteriously sticks to 0% PWM with the pump plugged in. I really wish I knew why other people are having no issues using non-Swiftech fans. I suppose I could try buying the very specific models cited here, but I'm pretty sure most of their fans use the same PWM technology and it wouldn't make a difference. And even if I did buy a regular NF-A14 and I confirmed it didn't work either - then what do I do? Kick rocks?


Can you send me a PM about this?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurei*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.
Click to expand...

i dont see an issue, sorry -

all you need is to supply 12vdc and ground , dont need it attached to anything else as suggested sata/fat 4 pin ( mistakenly called molex, really mate n lok ) to 4 pin fan

GENERALLY ~~~ 1a per header is normal rating, and 1 fan on each is not a big deal, anything connected to the pwm splitter is pulling amps from the psu directly, not through the mobo, and to add the LED in the waterblock pulls like micro amps !~


----------



## Durtmagurt

If I added a sperate res into my h220x loop would it help with bleeding?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> If I added a sperate res into my h220x loop would it help with bleeding?


anything that can reliably capture air pockets will help with bleeding. assuming that it is at a good location in the case


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> anything that can reliably capture air pockets will help with bleeding. assuming that it is at a good location in the case


anything that is above the pump can usually do pretty good job...the higher the better...that's why piece of tubing on horizontally mounted works so well the air bubbles really do want out they just need to be given the option


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Can you send me a PM about this?


I would but it seems my problem went away...for now at least. A few nights ago I spent hours taking apart and reconfiguring my connections in every way imaginable, also experimented with another 4-pin PWM slot on my mobo (which seems to do absolutely nothing for fan control), and no matter what I couldn't get my Noctua fans to play along with my pump. So I had my Helix140 fans hooked up for awhile.

But an hour ago, I tried changing my PWMOUT in Speedfan from 6M to 3M. I hooked up my Y-Splitter to my CPU slot, and then my Noctua S12A as well as the pump into the other end. It was working. Then I put everything back into my original config (all Noctua fans on my 8-way splitter), and they all work. So I have everything hooked up how it was and it's all working. What's weird is that I don't think it had anything to do with the PWMOUT setting I changed. I tried changing it back to 6M and everything still works.

Maybe blaming the pump is hasty. Maybe it makes more sense that the issue is with my CPU fan PWM port itself? Could swing either way. I wouldn't know unless I had multiple pumps to test. I've never adjusted the PWMOUT before, I'm not sure what it does but I'd be surprised if it did anything significant. Switching the setting between 3M, 6M, and 8M certainly changes something (it's audible), and I can see my fan RPMs slightly raise with a lower PWMOUT setting but I'm not sure if it aided anything in any way. The only thing I do know is that changing the PWMOUT setting manipulates the PWM signal, and that changing the settings seems to cause the fans and pump to react differently.

If it comes back, I'll be sure to PM you. It's not a problem I can replicate or make happen - it seems to just...come and go. I don't really want to dwell on it if things are working and I can't replicate the issue. Whatever is responsible for the problems I'm experiencing, the only thing I can isolate as being the problem is how my PWM signal is reaching everything attached to it. There's some weird anomaly where my CPU fan connector can only send a PWM signal to the pump, and then a 0% PWM signal to something else.


----------



## salokin

I am interested in getting the H240X, but I am worried about what case to go along with it. I want to get a mid tower that I can mount the 240X in top intake, yet I don't want to run into any compatibility issues with the motherboard or ram clearance. I was looking at the R5 and 450D, and was wondering if anyone had experience with those cases or any other mid tower cases?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salokin*
> 
> I am interested in getting the H240X, but I am worried about what case to go along with it. I want to get a mid tower that I can mount the 240X in top intake, yet I don't want to run into any compatibility issues with the motherboard or ram clearance. I was looking at the R5 and 450D, and was wondering if anyone had experience with those cases or any other mid tower cases?


I'm not sure about the R5. I do think I remember someone saying that it needs some modding to get the kit to fit. Most mid-tower cases though are just not going to be compatible because they don't have enough room above the motherboard to fit the fans and the radiator.


----------



## hypespazm

whats a good percentage to run the pump at? currently where im located its 90F outside.... and its been getting up to 30C in my room. with the being said AC is on full blast but my room is still HOT!!! lol i know that room temps are obviously the best way to cool down the PC BUT... i was wondering if I had the pump at the correct speed. on my fancontroller i had the pump set at 30% ish... but i pumped it up about 50-60% I was just wondering what is the ideal pump speed? I dont want to create more heat than I need too.... I am using ROG fan Xpert. btw... also I have the h240x and added to the loop is my GPU and a 240mm RAD both push pull on a PHANTEKS ENTHO LUXE case. so I currently have 5 140mm fans in exhaust and 4 120mm intake. any suggestions? CPU temps get as high at 60C under full load while GPU barely touches 47C(gtx 780).. again any suggestions on helping me get this system cooler would be GREATLY appreciated


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> whats a good percentage to run the pump at? currently where im located its 90F outside.... and its been getting up to 30C in my room. with the being said AC is on full blast but my room is still HOT!!! lol i know that room temps are obviously the best way to cool down the PC BUT... i was wondering if I had the pump at the correct speed. on my fancontroller i had the pump set at 30% ish... but i pumped it up about 50-60% I was just wondering what is the ideal pump speed? I dont want to create more heat than I need too.... I am using ROG fan Xpert. btw... also I have the h240x and added to the loop is my GPU and a 240mm RAD both push pull on a PHANTEKS ENTHO LUXE case. so I currently have 5 140mm fans in exhaust and 4 120mm intake. any suggestions? CPU temps get as high at 60C under full load while GPU barely touches 47C(gtx 780).. again any suggestions on helping me get this system cooler would be GREATLY appreciated


The best way to find the best speed settings for your situation is to play around with them. Try different fan and pump speeds to find what works best for you. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## d0mini

I have my H220x rolling along at 20%, never seen temps higher than 71*C @ 1.232v 4.6GHz while stress testing, no extra loop or components though


----------



## hypespazm

So i noticed this stream of bubbles pop up just now while turning on my pc and went away when the PC was booted..... i checked for leaks and i havent gotten any. I put the pump to max speed and it appeared again... i know that there must still be bleeding to do in the system but isnt this an awkward place for there to be air coming from?


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salokin*
> 
> I am interested in getting the H240X, but I am worried about what case to go along with it. I want to get a mid tower that I can mount the 240X in top intake, yet I don't want to run into any compatibility issues with the motherboard or ram clearance. I was looking at the R5 and 450D, and was wondering if anyone had experience with those cases or any other mid tower cases?


My H240-X is mounted in the 450D case. It's a tight fit, but it fits. You'll just want to make sure you have all PWM fans or voltage control for 3-pins on your motherboard because you won't be able to fit any fan controllers into an optical bay slot if you think you'll need that sort of thing. You'll also want an external DVD/Blu-Ray drive if you need an optical drive.

The only caveat is that if you wanted a 3rd fan on your H240-X, you likely won't have enough room between the mobo and the radiator.









Also, because of the tight fit, I'd be mindful about where you place your 8-way splitter. I recommend making a conscious effort to make sure it's not simply squeezed into your case. Mine was very tightly fitted in behind my motherboard and I started running into signal issues 6 months later. Not sure if that's the cause, but it's my best guess, and it's better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> If I added a sperate res into my h220x loop would it help with bleeding?


I found that it didn't help me but it may for you.


----------



## spacetoast31

@BramSLI1 Im having trouble figuring out how to get my ApogeeXL to light up. On my z77 sabertooth i just went in and cranked the percentage to 100 on the header, i just transitioned to a 4690k and the gigabyte z97n gaming 5 board and im not sure how to get the thing to turn on. I have it on the system fan header. Put it on manual, and it doesnt have Percentage options besides like "1.0 pwm value" I tried that and still no light


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> @BramSLI1 Im having trouble figuring out how to get my ApogeeXL to light up. On my z77 sabertooth i just went in and cranked the percentage to 100 on the header, i just transitioned to a 4690k and the gigabyte z97n gaming 5 board and im not sure how to get the thing to turn on. I have it on the system fan header. Put it on manual, and it doesnt have Percentage options besides like "1.0 pwm value" I tried that and still no light


Each motherboard is going to be a little different. What you may need to do is find a fan header that will give you the option to set it to a % value instead. I don't think plugging this into a PWM capable header is going to get you the desired result.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Each motherboard is going to be a little different. What you may need to do is find a fan header that will give you the option to set it to a % value instead. I don't think plugging this into a PWM capable header is going to get you the desired result.


The downside, is that its an ITX board and only has 2 headers.
Would i be able to run it on just a molex adapter and it would just receive the power and no percentages...?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> The downside, is that its an ITX board and only has 2 headers.
> Would i be able to run it on just a molex adapter and it would just receive the power and no percentages...?


Yes, that should work as well.


----------



## jase78

I was wondering if anyone has tried switching out fans in a h240x/h220x if so what kind of changes if any did they notice? in particular noctua industrials.I can get some noctua a14's for very cheap and wondered if I would actually get lower temps with them on my h240x.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has tried switching out fans in a h240x/h220x if so what kind of changes if any did they notice? in particular noctua industrials.I can get some noctua a14's for very cheap and wondered if I would actually get lower temps with them on my h240x.


I used Noctua Industrials (NF-A14 3000RPM) for 6 months with my H-240X (4 in my case) before 2 died simultaneously. Not just the Noctua Industrials, but the S12A case-fan model as well.

I'm not sure if I can recommend Noctua fans at all for Swiftech's H240-X based on my experience. They are quiet and definitely give better temps (by a few degrees for me), but it's possible your fans will just randomly turn off entirely (or completely die out). It's honestly not worth the head-ache. I've spent at least 2x the amount of time troubleshooting the issues with Noctua fans hooked up to my H240-X than it took me to make the money that paid for'em.

Not everyone has experienced these issues, but IMO it's a bit of a gamble. Just keep your Helix140's in case you do decide to upgrade the fans.


----------



## Danbeme32

I switch my fans for the EK Vardar F3-120 and had no problems with them..


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has tried switching out fans in a h240x/h220x if so what kind of changes if any did they notice? in particular noctua industrials.I can get some noctua a14's for very cheap and wondered if I would actually get lower temps with them on my h240x.


Hitech legion did a comparison with noctua fans search in YouTube h240x .
Don't think they made a difference the helix fans are very good already.
Here it is


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has tried switching out fans in a h240x/h220x if so what kind of changes if any did they notice? in particular noctua industrials.I can get some noctua a14's for very cheap and wondered if I would actually get lower temps with them on my h240x.


The Helix 140 are great, don´t change them. I bought two Noctua industrial and you could not compare with the Helix 140. The noise level of the Noctuas is amazing, in the other hand the Helix 140 are really silent. Swiftech is for me one of the best companies doing pump and water cooling stuff


----------



## Michael Conway

For anyone thinking about getting any of these Swiftech aio coolers think again. I have had mine for less than two months, the build up you see in these images occurred the very same month I installed and started using this device. I have taken good care of it as it goes into my competition pc for Quakecon this year. I have so much algae and blue and other colored debree inside this device it is sad and it looks disgusting. I called Swiftech and the guy Bryan is a good dude and nice, but his company sucks. They want me to ship it back and be without any kind of cooler for my pc which I use daily for work. They want to charge me $140.00 for overnight shipping there and back to me for an item I payed $180.00 for already. So yet again another company learns that as long as the politicians in America are getting their cut you may screw over the rest of the hard working populace. Good job Swiftech, you picked the right country to screw over consumers in congrats. 


ongrats.


----------



## Dudewitbow

I find it ludicrous if you expect any company at all to pay for overnight shipping for RMA service


----------



## Michael Conway

Sure it would not be a big deal if I had an extra cooler for my machine but i do not. I use this machine for work so you say its ok to get faulty low quality high priced parts and have to pay for them more than once in less than two months of purchase. I also would imagine that you like most people realize that all these pc part companies are in California easy enough to ship for you who lives in California I am sure, but I do not live in California so for me it is a huge 180 dollar inconvenience not to mention that i cannot just tell my job sorry man the next 3 weeks I'm off. Then I would loose that job that pays for these expensive parts that are not of the quality I was promised. Also I wouldn't mind them having to send me the replacement in an advanced considering they even told me they know that these have issues and they have a lot of these to RMA. I would not mind waiting for a replacement as long as I can still use this to keep my machine cool, but they wont do an advanced RMA and that to me is what i find unacceptable. But hey man if you don't mind paying twice for one product or paying to be inconvenienced that's your business but stay the hell out of mine and let me vent and take my frustrations out on the internet instead of another person. Cool?


----------



## spacetoast31

Ive had mine for quite some time now, and i have had no problems at all. You may have gotten a poor batch of coolant maybe? But its no reason to down the entire brand for some possible bad coolant. Or maybe you refilled it yourself with some bad mix? I dont know. But if you have that sort of buildup, Just drain it and clean it. No need for shipping back and forth and downtime. It would take a very minimal amount of time as you are running a simple loop. And hey, while your'e at it, you could always swap out the tubing since this is supposed to be a show system. Do attempt to ruin an entire company name and reputation over something like this. For 2 reasons, 1, being it wont work, as you can tell, theres a lot of followers of this product and the company and little to none of complaints. All of which are usually responded to promptly and handled accordingly to the companies protocol, and 2 being, Its water cooling, it will have its issues. Id hate to see the water in the fully closed AIO, ive seen some horror stories on those, at least you can just drain and clean this one. Take what i said as you will, but im just proposing you clean it yourself.


----------



## Michael Conway

So those rare occasions when you are wrong, this is one I apologize to Bryan and Swiftech and appreciate the advanced RMA and will own my being a d bag. So I am sorry and again thank you so much for all your help Bryan and thank you for helping me out with my issue Bryan and Swiftech.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hitech legion did a comparison with noctua fans search in YouTube h240x .
> Don't think they made a difference the helix fans are very good already.
> Here it is


I don't see any fan comparison in that video.

The fans made a difference in temperatures for me. My temps lowered by 2-3 degrees by switching out to Noctua fans (idle and load).

I didn't do any scientific documentation. Just simply measured my temps before switching out the fans, and the measured them again after switching them out. I tuned them to make sure they were running at the same volume level. Not really a big difference for $40-60, but there should be a difference. The Helix140 fans are almost quiet to a detriment (I can hear the pump more audibly than the fans). At least with the Noctua fans I can mask the pump noise - so I can have more airflow with less noise.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I don't see any fan comparison in that video.
> 
> The fans made a difference in temperatures for me. My temps lowered by 2-3 degrees by switching out to Noctua fans (idle and load).
> 
> I didn't do any scientific documentation. Just simply measured my temps before switching out the fans, and the measured them again after switching them out. I tuned them to make sure they were running at the same volume level. Not really a big difference for $40-60, but there should be a difference. The Helix140 fans are almost quiet to a detriment (I can hear the pump more audibly than the fans). At least with the Noctua fans I can mask the pump noise - so I can have more airflow with less noise.


Sorry wrong vid


----------



## Swuell

So I've been having issues recently with my H220X--even though I haven't had it installed too long--and wasn't sure if I need to go about RMAing or if this was a prevalent issue as my H220X has known to flicker (the block for the CPU's light) flicker's slowly consistently ever once and a while after a long session--I haven't finished doing my fan graphs as I'm still having an issue getting one my fans to read correctly (I think it might be the cable as CPU-Z and HWMonitor only sees 3 fans when I have 4 cables connected with all fans on all 4 cables)--and the worst is one time while my pc was on the flickering got so bad that it seemed like it was pulsating and the PC slowed down to a crawl for a few seconds and then started back up normally when the light was normal. I then cold shut down my pc and rebooted... The flickering happens if my pc isn't off for at least a day... :|. But this is pretty weird, has anybody else experienced this?

What's going on??


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Sorry wrong vid


Interesting, but it doesn't really seem like he made any effort to actually compare the noise/air ratio (no measurements). He's also focusing on a completely different comparison, so I don't think he actually put any effort into comparing the performance of the fans specifically for the H240X as much as he made an assumption.

Also, I'm using different Noctua fans, so that might explain why it worked better for me. I'll explain. I'm not sure about anyone else but when running my Helix140 fans at 25%, I don't hear the fans - I hear my pump. It might be because of where my PC is in relation to where I'm sitting, but the sound signature of the whirring pump is a lot more distinct to my ears than the light "woosh" of the fans. My Helix140 fans wouldn't become louder than the pump until the higher %'s.

With Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM fans, the volume is much more on-level with my pump at lower %'s. I can turn my pump and fans down to 20%. Then all I hear is the gentle "woosh" of the fans, and I don't have to hear the clicky-sounding pump. At 25%, I can't hear my pump at all.


----------



## jase78

T1337dude. Could you give me the difference in C. when compared to your 3000rpm industrials (Load/idle). As far as sound goes it sounds like your saying the louder fan drowns out the pump sound. So the noctua fans are louder, even at 25%, Than the helix? Luckily I'm in a h440x case which has very good sound dampening qualities. I can only hear my pump when I'm within a couple inches of it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Interesting, but it doesn't really seem like he made any effort to actually compare the noise/air ratio (no measurements). He's also focusing on a completely different comparison, so I don't think he actually put any effort into comparing the performance of the fans specifically for the H240X as much as he made an assumption.
> 
> Also, I'm using different Noctua fans, so that might explain why it worked better for me. I'll explain. I'm not sure about anyone else but when running my Helix140 fans at 25%, I don't hear the fans - I hear my pump. It might be because of where my PC is in relation to where I'm sitting, but the sound signature of the whirring pump is a lot more distinct to my ears than the light "woosh" of the fans. My Helix140 fans wouldn't become louder than the pump until the higher %'s.
> 
> With Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM fans, the volume is much more on-level with my pump at lower %'s. I can turn my pump and fans down to 20%. Then all I hear is the gentle "woosh" of the fans, and I don't have to hear the clicky-sounding pump. At 25%, I can't hear my pump at all.


You hit the nail right on the head. On one hand we did show that the Noctua NF-A14 1500 rpm and Helix are essentially equivalent in terms of performance, but that was simply a byproduct of the actual focus of the comparison. The real reason for the Noctuas being there at all, and the reason they were done in push and pull? Simple.....one, we wanted a control fan to take the fans completely out of the equation and show the performance of the two coolers with all things being equal. Secondly, and more importantly, we wanted to show that, no, your temps don't drop twenty degrees on a CLC by changing the fans to Noctuas (CLC users seem to believe this happens, despite the fact that they are reducing CFM and static by doing it







) - no, running them in pull on a CLC doesn't make unicorns appear to lower the temps another ten degrees from that...and no, changing to Noctuas will not make a CLC perform on par with the Swiftech. So, yeah, it was purely being proactive in preventing ridiculous comments following the video.

As far as the PPCs, I have only tried the 2000rpm. The change in temps was small, 1-2 degrees at full speed, and even that could be chalked up to a change in room temp or the seating of the block. But, there was definitely a drastic noise difference.


----------



## slikk11

I just ordered a couple of green color replacements for the H240X rad window from Swiftech. Does anyone here have one? Are there any pics or videos showing how to properly replace the window color replacement? Any pics of a finished window change? It appears from the product pics that extra caution should be used when changing. All help or info really appreciated. Thanks..take care.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slikk11*
> 
> I just ordered a couple of green color replacements for the H240X rad window from Swiftech. Does anyone here have one? Are there any pics or videos showing how to properly replace the window color replacement? Any pics of a finished window change? It appears from the product pics that extra caution should be used when changing. All help or info really appreciated. Thanks..take care.


They do have a installation guide on the web site. Am wanting for my replacement myself..

http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/PPHR%20WINDOW%20INSTALLATION.pdf


----------



## slikk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> They do have a installation guide on the web site. Am wanting for my replacement myself..
> 
> http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/PPHR%20WINDOW%20INSTALLATION.pdf


Thanks. It won't open for me. Any other place I could find anything?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slikk11*
> 
> Thanks. It won't open for me. Any other place I could find anything?


Send me an email at [email protected] and I'll send you a copy of the instructions.


----------



## abbb

A few months ago one of the elbow joints of my H220 detached from the radiator. No components were damaged because, fortunately my GPU wasn't long enough to be under the joint. I took the kit out of my computer, flushed the loop, and did my best to reattach the joint. I was able to reconnect it and it seemed to be okay, but yesterday the same joint detached again, leaking water into the computer. Right now I'm just using the Intel stock cooler. Am I able to get a replacement or is there something else I could do?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> A few months ago one of the elbow joints of my H220 detached from the radiator. No components were damaged because, fortunately my GPU wasn't long enough to be under the joint. I took the kit out of my computer, flushed the loop, and did my best to reattach the joint. I was able to reconnect it and it seemed to be okay, but yesterday the same joint detached again, leaking water into the computer. Right now I'm just using the Intel stock cooler. Am I able to get a replacement or is there something else I could do?


Which elbow is this, the one coming off of the pump or the one on the radiator?


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Which elbow is this, the one coming off of the pump or the one on the radiator?


The one on the radiator


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> The one on the radiator


OK, then send me an email about this and I'll see if I can send you a replacement fitting.


----------



## slikk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Send me an email at [email protected] and I'll send you a copy of the instructions.


One more question Bram..Is it OK to use something like a magic marker to color the window? I know that's not ideal but for those of us that are too scared to take the rad apart,will a marker do damage to the acrylic? Thank you very much. Take care...


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slikk11*
> 
> One more question Bram..Is it OK to use something like a magic marker to color the window? I know that's not ideal but for those of us that are too scared to take the rad apart,will a marker do damage to the acrylic? Thank you very much. Take care...


If you could find a colored transparent tape that would be better I think..


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> If you could find a colored transparent tape that would be better I think..


I would agree. I don't think a magic marker would do much.


----------



## slikk11

I thought a magic marker or similar pen might erode or damage the acrylic somehow. Oh well,I'm still waiting for mine to ship. I'll report back once I have them installed. Thanks again...


----------



## zila

Why not just cut out a small piece of window tint and apply it?


----------



## slikk11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Why not just cut out a small piece of window tint and apply it?


It's trying to get the green window color to match the CPU block color. There's a million shades of green out there.


----------



## lazystargazer

Just got my h240-x the other day and I'm sure this issue has been brought up before, but my pump is quiet loud and I'm not sure if its due to trapped air in the loop or if its some fault of the pump. It's making a loud humming noise rather than a rattling noise. Any ideas as to what the issue might be?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazystargazer*
> 
> Just got my h240-x the other day and I'm sure this issue has been brought up before, but my pump is quiet loud and I'm not sure if its due to trapped air in the loop or if its some fault of the pump. It's making a loud humming noise rather than a rattling noise. Any ideas as to what the issue might be?


Is it louder than the stock fans, or are you using different fans with it? What have you done so far to alleviate the noise?


----------



## lazystargazer

So far I haven't done much. The fans were always louder than the pump until I switched the fans over to a fan controller to fix their rpm, but the system is still quiet loud. I tried removing air bubbles by removing the radiator and shaking it and the case a bit. I could probably shake things around a little more to see if that helps. I also hear some static-like noise when I start up my system if that helps diagnose the problem.


----------



## lazystargazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is it louder than the stock fans, or are you using different fans with it? What have you done so far to alleviate the noise?


So far I haven't done much. The fans were always louder than the pump until I switched the fans over to a fan controller to fix their rpm, but the system is still quiet loud. I tried removing air bubbles by removing the radiator and shaking it and the case a bit. I could probably shake things around a little more to see if that helps. I also hear some static-like noise when I start up my system if that helps diagnose the problem.

Update: I tried shaking the radiator again for a little bit to no avail. The fans and pump are both still ridiculously loud and I don't know what to do. Should I just return or rma this unit?


----------



## Swuell

So has anybody else had the same errors as my on the h220x or do I need to contact @bram to RMA??

The lights flickering on and off is worrying me...


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazystargazer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Is it louder than the stock fans, or are you using different fans with it? What have you done so far to alleviate the noise?
> 
> 
> 
> So far I haven't done much. The fans were always louder than the pump until I switched the fans over to a fan controller to fix their rpm, but the system is still quiet loud. I tried removing air bubbles by removing the radiator and shaking it and the case a bit. I could probably shake things around a little more to see if that helps. I also hear some static-like noise when I start up my system if that helps diagnose the problem.
> 
> Update: I tried shaking the radiator again for a little bit to no avail. The fans and pump are both still ridiculously loud and I don't know what to do. Should I just return or rma this unit?
Click to expand...

Can you control your pump with your motherboard? Try lowering the power % to around 20-30% - you'll still have enough pressure with the stock config of just the rad and the CPU block and the buzzing sound will decrease by a lot


----------



## delpy8

hi guys just received a replacement h320 from Bacata and was wondering why the cpu block/pump has changed

Its now got three connections the usual 4 pin to the splitter and also a sata power connector and some other two pin connector and the block design is slightly different

Any ideas?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So has anybody else had the same errors as my on the h220x or do I need to contact @bram to RMA??
> 
> The lights flickering on and off is worrying me...


if it's the light on the cpu block that's the setting of the fan header you have it plugged into...if it's the led in the res then I would get a flashlight and see if the pump impeller is spinning when the light goes out...if it is it's probably lose or bad connection with the led cabling


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazystargazer*
> 
> So far I haven't done much. The fans were always louder than the pump until I switched the fans over to a fan controller to fix their rpm, but the system is still quiet loud. I tried removing air bubbles by removing the radiator and shaking it and the case a bit. I could probably shake things around a little more to see if that helps. I also hear some static-like noise when I start up my system if that helps diagnose the problem.
> 
> Update: I tried shaking the radiator again for a little bit to no avail. The fans and pump are both still ridiculously loud and I don't know what to do. Should I just return or rma this unit?


If the fans are louder than the pump, then this is normal. The pump was designed to be quieter than the fans. I don't think replacing your kit would resolve your issue.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So has anybody else had the same errors as my on the h220x or do I need to contact @bram to RMA??
> 
> The lights flickering on and off is worrying me...


You just need to go into your BIOS and configure the header that you have the CPU block plugged into to run at 100% at all times. This will keep the LED at a constant voltage so that it won't flicker any more.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> hi guys just received a replacement h320 from Bacata and was wondering why the cpu block/pump has changed
> 
> Its now got three connections the usual 4 pin to the splitter and also a sata power connector and some other two pin connector and the block design is slightly different
> 
> Any ideas?


These older pumps are now being replaced with our MCP30 pumps that are used in our X kits. The SATA connector provides power, the fan connector provides PWM control and monitoring, and the 2-pin connector is for the LED in the reservoir of our X kits, so you won't use that. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These older pumps are now being replaced with our MCP30 pumps that are used in our X kits. The SATA connector provides power, the fan connector provides PWM control and monitoring, and the 2-pin connector is for the LED in the reservoir of our X kits, so you won't use that. I hope this answers your questions.


thanks so much all installed and running perfect, I must say the pump runs very quiet


----------



## Xylonjay

Can I join the club?


----------



## kurei

Can I connect the CPU Block LED on my swiftech h220-x to a chassis fan header on the motherboard and set it to 100 % for the LED to work. I already have the Pump connected to the cpu fan header directly . One of the fans is connected to the CPU-OPT header and the other to a chassis fan header. After connecting my chassis fans I still have one fan header to spare on my motherboard. I think it should work. This will allow me to take the pwm splitter out of the loop. Any drawbacks to this Idea?


----------



## lazystargazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Can you control your pump with your motherboard? Try lowering the power % to around 20-30% - you'll still have enough pressure with the stock config of just the rad and the CPU block and the buzzing sound will decrease by a lot


I lowered the cpu fan speed in bios and that made the kit quieter but still louder than I expected (for comparison I had an h100i installed previously and that cooler was quieter at idle and load). The downside is now my entire system's temps shot up as a result.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurei*
> 
> Can I connect the CPU Block LED on my swiftech h220-x to a chassis fan header on the motherboard and set it to 100 % for the LED to work. I already have the Pump connected to the cpu fan header directly . One of the fans is connected to the CPU-OPT header and the other to a chassis fan header. After connecting my chassis fans I still have one fan header to spare on my motherboard. I think it should work. This will allow me to take the pwm splitter out of the loop. Any drawbacks to this Idea?


bram had said previously that the splitter was recommended...the block led power wire is fine and the pump will probably run just fine that way however...the splitter is a good idea either way because if you add more fans there's the extra ports


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delpy8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> These older pumps are now being replaced with our MCP30 pumps that are used in our X kits. The SATA connector provides power, the fan connector provides PWM control and monitoring, and the 2-pin connector is for the LED in the reservoir of our X kits, so you won't use that. I hope this answers your questions.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks so much all installed and running perfect, I must say the pump runs very quiet
Click to expand...

Would like to hear if it stays the same after 6-8 months.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

Any news about H240-X distribution in Europe? It has been out of stock on HighFlow.nl for a while now. :/


----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> bram had said previously that the splitter was recommended...the block led power wire is fine and the pump will probably run just fine that way however...the splitter is a good idea either way because if you add more fans there's the extra ports


The splitter i got was not working at all. I got no reading and everything was running full speed when i connected the splitter to the cpu fan header. decided it was safer and more efficient to wire them all separately since my motherboard has 2 cpu fan headers and 3 chassis fan headers that were unused. so the pump went to sata power + cpu header fan directly and the fans went to a cpu-opt fan header and a chassis fan header each. All work very nicely with the bios control so the only thing the PWM splitter is doing right now is providing power to the LED. If i use one of the spare chassis fan headers for the same thing I can get rid of the PWM splitter from my case and breathe easier. I don't want to incur the cost of shipping the item all the way back to USA from India and would rather work without it.

UPDATE: I used one of the chassis fan control headers on my cm Stryker and set it to 100% to stop the flickering. The led powers up fine and I took out the pwm splitter completely.


----------



## mush332

Hi everyone. i just purchased the h240-x aand installed it on my i5 3570k and was wondering if my prime 95 results were good.
under 100% load for about 30 min the temps never passed 70 degrees Celsius. i was wondering if that was good and also how do i controll my fan speed and pump speed?
i ahve it hooked up with the PWM splitter just how the install guide showed me.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mush332*
> 
> Hi everyone. i just purchased the h240-x aand installed it on my i5 3570k and was wondering if my prime 95 results were good.
> under 100% load for about 30 min the temps never passed 70 degrees Celsius. i was wondering if that was good and also how do i controll my fan speed and pump speed?
> i ahve it hooked up with the PWM splitter just how the install guide showed me.


after having the pump connected to the pwm splitter and the splitter on the CPUFAN header, you control the fan speed either by:

A) Bios
B) Speedfan
C) Mobo Company Specific software(e.g Asus AI suite) if the company has software for it


----------



## Durtmagurt

H


----------



## Mega Man

i


----------



## kurei

J?


----------



## Danbeme32

O.....


----------



## jase78

E


----------



## LezOU

hello,

there's 1610 pages on this topic so please accept my apologies for not going through it.

Has anyone experience of using the H140-X for multiple GPU ?

I can't find the H220-X or H240-X so I had to order the H140-X.

I'd like to connect 3 HD7950 (and no CPU), I guess that as the pump is pretty damn powerfull, it whould work ..

Thoughts ?

Thank you


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> hello,
> 
> there's 1610 pages on this topic so please accept my apologies for not going through it.
> 
> Has anyone experience of using the H140-X for multiple GPU ?
> 
> I can't find the H220-X or H240-X so I had to order the H140-X.
> 
> I'd like to connect 3 HD7950 (and no CPU), I guess that as the pump is pretty damn powerfull, it whould work ..
> 
> Thoughts ?
> 
> Thank you


Yes, the pump should be able to handle that, but there is absolutely no way that the single fan radiator will handle the heat load from those three cards. You'll fry them pretty quickly unless you add at least another triple fan radiator.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the pump should be able to handle that, but there is absolutely no way that the single fan radiator will handle the heat load from those three cards. You'll fry them pretty quickly unless you add at least another triple fan radiator.


Thank you

I'm quite limited in space

I have 2x140 at the front (one for h140-x) and 1x120 at the back of the case


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> I'm quite limited in space
> 
> I have 2x140 at the front (one for h140-x) and 1x120 at the back of the case


You're going to need a bigger case then. Those cards produce quite a lot of heat and a single radiator is going to cook them. I'd be surprised if you can keep them under 100 Celsius at load.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You're going to need a bigger case then. Those cards produce quite a lot of heat and a single radiator is going to cook them. I'd be surprised if you can keep them under 100 Celsius at load.


thank you Bram









I have a couple of spare radiators, so I can probably daisy chain them

H140-X (front top) => rad1 (front bottom if it fits) => 3 GPUs => rad2 (back top) => H140-X

This way GPU gets cool liquid from the front, and the hot liquid goes through 1 rad before entering the H140-X ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> thank you Bram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a couple of spare radiators, so I can probably daisy chain them
> 
> H140-X (front top) => rad1 (front bottom if it fits) => 3 GPUs => rad2 (back top) => H140-X
> 
> This way GPU gets cool liquid from the front, and the hot liquid goes through 1 rad before entering the H140-X ?


The order of components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. Just go with the shortest distance between components when routing your tubing.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The order of components in the loop makes no difference in terms of cooling performance. Just go with the shortest distance between components when routing your tubing.


Good to know about the order








Less tubing = less effort for the pump to work I believe.

It's been years since I build a home made watercooling (prob 10...)

Thank you very much Bram.

I'll post pics when I get the HW (H140-x is coming from swiftec directly in the US to France so it's going to take a while) and everything is assembled)


----------



## kurei

I was curious as to whether folks at Swiftech have a recommended idle pump rpm for long life. I've heard a lot of stories of pumps on the h220 going bad. Granted that the pump on the 220x is the new and improved version but I was still curious as to whether there is a recommended curve for the pump. Since my pwm splitter wasn't working out of the box, I've used chassis and motherboard headers to control everything separately. I'm running linear curves as following
Pump idle - 1800 rpm , load - 2500 rpm
Fans idle - 1150 rpm, load - 1650 rpm

Are these reasonable curves to run or do I need to fiddle with them some. Maybe Brams can shed more light on the matter.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurei*
> 
> I was curious as to whether folks at Swiftech have a recommended idle pump rpm for long life. I've heard a lot of stories of pumps on the h220 going bad. Granted that the pump on the 220x is the new and improved version but I was still curious as to whether there is a recommended curve for the pump. Since my pwm splitter wasn't working out of the box, I've used chassis and motherboard headers to control everything separately. I'm running linear curves as following
> Pump idle - 1800 rpm , load - 2500 rpm
> Fans idle - 1150 rpm, load - 1650 rpm
> 
> Are these reasonable curves to run or do I need to fiddle with them some. Maybe Brams can shed more light on the matter.


These MCP30 pumps don't have the issues that the older pumps did that might require running the pump at a specific RPM setting to improve longevity. You should be able to run this pump at any speed you like for the life of the kit.


----------



## Xylonjay

I had a question that hopefully someone could answer. I recently picked up the CM Glacer 240L and had some questions regarding the setup of the fans and pump. What fan headers should I connect the pump to? Right now I have it connected to CPU1. The two radiator fans are connected to CPU2 and Chassis3. I would like to free up one of my fan headers and wondered if I could run my radiator fans off a splitter, is this a bad idea? Thanks!


----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> I had a question that hopefully someone could answer. I recently picked up the CM Glacer 240L and had some questions regarding the setup of the fans and pump. What fan headers should I connect the pump to? Right now I have it connected to CPU1. The two radiator fans are connected to CPU2 and Chassis3. I would like to free up one of my fan headers and wondered if I could run my radiator fans off a splitter, is this a bad idea? Thanks!


afaik the radiator fans on the 240L draw .2 to .3 amps on load so two of them running from a splitter should draw .6 amps on load. As long as your motherboard header is rated for 1 amp which it normally is , you should be fine using a splitter.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> I had a question that hopefully someone could answer. I recently picked up the CM Glacer 240L and had some questions regarding the setup of the fans and pump. What fan headers should I connect the pump to? Right now I have it connected to CPU1. The two radiator fans are connected to CPU2 and Chassis3. I would like to free up one of my fan headers and wondered if I could run my radiator fans off a splitter, is this a bad idea? Thanks!


I think that you may have to talk to CM rep about. when it comes to swiftech's products, they designed their fans to run solely off pwm and are not designed for voltage controlled use. As for CM fans, I don't think it was ever clarified if it was okay to run CM Jetflos(?) on voltage controlled headers. This only applies if hte header in question is a voltage controlled header(which in MOST situations, it is)


----------



## sav4

I ran jetflo 120 off voltage from mb and psu via adapter, have been fine for 6months

Edit @xylonjay be careful the jet flows do have a high start up current so make sure of the amps your m/b can handle.


----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I ran jetflo 120 off voltage from mb and psu via adapter, have been fine for 6months
> 
> Edit @xylonjay be careful the jet flows do have a high start up current so make sure of the amps your m/b can handle.


I've used an amp meter to measure Peak current output (startup current) for the Chassis fan headers on my Maximus VI hero and I got 1.4 amps for short duration. The fan header can in no way provide that current for an extended time (not even for a few minutes). I would recommend ensuring that steady state load current draw is under 0.8 amperes.


----------



## LezOU

Hi (again)

my order of the H140X was canceled by swiftech (as I live outside US).

So I'm now considering the H240X as:
- it'll fit in my case
- it's dual fan so I just have to add a 120mm rad+fan at the back of the case
- it's AIO (I really really really don't want to go through a full DIY kit or a kit with the pump on the CPU as I don't want/need to watercool my CPU)

Unfortunately it's pretty damn hard to find in Europe.... and Out of stock of Swiftech website :/

I found some on Amazon (from US), but I've contacted some EU reseller to check for availability...

or maybe I should consider the H2O-220 ?


----------



## xseta

Has anyone Front mounted a h240-x? Mines arriving soon and wouldn't mind some ideas


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xseta*
> 
> Has anyone Front mounted a h240-x? Mines arriving soon and wouldn't mind some ideas


Where did you get it ?

pretty please


----------



## xseta

From PCCaseGear, it's arriving on the 12th, but I'm getting one of the first to come in.


----------



## sav4

Me to ?


----------



## LezOU

Btw this is computer dedicated to distributed computing (boinc) so I use a program that limits GPU usage when temp reaches a defined threshold (80C is the limit I set).


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I think that you may have to talk to CM rep about. when it comes to swiftech's products, they designed their fans to run solely off pwm and are not designed for voltage controlled use. As for CM fans, I don't think it was ever clarified if it was okay to run CM Jetflos(?) on voltage controlled headers. This only applies if hte header in question is a voltage controlled header(which in MOST situations, it is)


Alright, thanks for the response!


----------



## Trojita

Might have already been answered, but when will the H240x be back in stock Bram?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trojita*
> 
> Might have already been answered, but when will the H240x be back in stock Bram?


Right now, I really don't know. It looks like it could be as early as next week or possibly the following week at the latest.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trojita*
> 
> Might have already been answered, but when will the H240x be back in stock Bram?


Don't know where you live but it's in stock on performance-pcs site


----------



## baconboys

Bram does Swiftech licence It's apogee water block to Thermaltake? The design looks identical.


----------



## baconboys

I'm running a140X and a 360 swifteck qp radiator to cool a 4790 K and two R9- 290X. Under gaming load the CPU is always under 60C and the GPU's run at 50 to 58C. I have my pump running on a pretty quiet profile but by the time the cpu hits 70C everything would be running at 100 per cent but it never gets there just gaming.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> Bram does Swiftech licence It's apogee water block to Thermaltake? The design looks identical.


It is an Apogee XL with the nameplate changed. While Tt doesn't advertise it, they don't deny it, either. They have stated as much.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

@BramSLI1 any word on when the mcp35x reservoirs will be back in stock...I decided my mcp50x needed a proper housing before I install it but now it's out of stock


----------



## nbrikha

Has anyone experimented with rigid tubing on the H240X?


----------



## cravinmild

I just picked up a H320 while at NCIX in Burnaby yesterday. I was just going in for two 140mm fans so I could replace two 120mm (yes 120mm) I modded to work P/P for the H110 rad but ...... idk what happened? I ended up leaving the store with a H320









Im not sure if its a good buy, it was an impulse buy with little knowledge of the unit prior to purchase. Having read some reviews im a bit nervous and have some buyers remorse honestly. I have 6 other red/black yates I purchased a few years back but never used. I plan on using these vs the three shipped fans, this will also allow me to reverse the flow as from what Ive read they premounted to exhaust into the case and not out. I also picked up a tube of MX4 as I was unaware that there was some included in the box. Which grease do you guys think would be better ...

I dont plan on installing anytime soon. I want to get some proper liquid to wash all my components down (dusty desert here)







I want to wash off all the caked on dirt which wont brush off while using a DataVac







( I know right, must be bad if the DataVac cant blow it off)

Anyways, cant wait to read the thread and get to know my product. Please if you could any input would be nice in regards to mounting and such.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I just picked up a H320 while at NCIX in Burnaby yesterday. I was just going in for two 140mm fans so I could replace two 120mm (yes 120mm) I modded to work P/P for the H110 rad but ...... idk what happened? I ended up leaving the store with a H320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if its a good buy, it was an impulse buy with little knowledge of the unit prior to purchase. Having read some reviews im a bit nervous and have some buyers remorse honestly. I have 6 other red/black yates I purchased a few years back but never used. I plan on using these vs the three shipped fans, this will also allow me to reverse the flow as from what Ive read they premounted to exhaust into the case and not out. I also picked up a tube of MX4 as I was unaware that there was some included in the box. Which grease do you guys think would be better ...
> 
> I dont plan on installing anytime soon. I want to get some proper liquid to wash all my components down (dusty desert here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to wash off all the caked on dirt which wont brush off while using a DataVac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I know right, must be bad if the DataVac cant blow it off)
> 
> Anyways, cant wait to read the thread and get to know my product. Please if you could any input would be nice in regards to mounting and such.


when it comes to the older units:

1. Orientation is not limited BUT more maintainance can be required for loops where the reservoir is not at the top of some portion of the loop. the reservoir acts like a air bubble catcher, so if its facing down or at the bottom of a loop, it doesnt serve its purpose

2. highly recommended to run the pump and fans off the splitter, connected only to the CPU FAN slot in general. this is due to the fact that all motherboards by design must have the CPU fan to be true pwm. different motherboards will vary the rest of the fan slots. This is because the swiftech products are designed specifically for PWM use and using voltage modulated sources can destroy the unit.

3. Gains in push pull are relatively minimal due to low FPI of the radiator(not that its not existent, just minimal when it comes to ∆ T of the core blocks.) But of course it still helps with case airflow


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I just picked up a H320 while at NCIX in Burnaby yesterday. I was just going in for two 140mm fans so I could replace two 120mm (yes 120mm) I modded to work P/P for the H110 rad but ...... idk what happened? I ended up leaving the store with a H320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if its a good buy, it was an impulse buy with little knowledge of the unit prior to purchase. Having read some reviews im a bit nervous and have some buyers remorse honestly. I have 6 other red/black yates I purchased a few years back but never used. I plan on using these vs the three shipped fans, this will also allow me to reverse the flow as from what Ive read they premounted to exhaust into the case and not out. I also picked up a tube of MX4 as I was unaware that there was some included in the box. Which grease do you guys think would be better ...
> 
> I dont plan on installing anytime soon. I want to get some proper liquid to wash all my components down (dusty desert here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to wash off all the caked on dirt which wont brush off while using a DataVac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I know right, must be bad if the DataVac cant blow it off)
> 
> Anyways, cant wait to read the thread and get to know my product. Please if you could any input would be nice in regards to mounting and such.
> 
> 
> 
> when it comes to the older units:
> 
> 1. Orientation is not limited BUT more maintainance can be required for loops where the reservoir is not at the top of some portion of the loop. the reservoir acts like a air bubble catcher, so if its facing down or at the bottom of a loop, it doesnt serve its purpose
> 
> 2. highly recommended to run the pump and fans off the splitter, connected only to the CPU FAN slot in general. this is due to the fact that all motherboards by design must have the CPU fan to be true pwm. different motherboards will vary the rest of the fan slots. This is because the swiftech products are designed specifically for PWM use and using voltage modulated sources can destroy the unit.
> 
> 3. Gains in push pull are relatively minimal due to low FPI of the radiator(not that its not existent, just minimal when it comes to ∆ T of the core blocks.) But of course it still helps with case airflow
Click to expand...

Good stuff ty









The rad will be in the top of my HAF932 but the longer rad means it will extend under the top molded plastic portion of the case. The fan holes still extend beyond what is visible to the eye and the plastic is also finned to allow hot are to be blown out but with slightly restricted flow. I knew this going in and i am ok with that. I will also be mounting all 6 of those R/B yates if for no other reason than it looks beast









I was hoping to run the pump straight off molex for constant 12v, no software involved, no accidents. This is how I have run all my aio units (bios option set ON to boot without cpu fan attached) and would like to continue if possible. I have two fan controllers installed now for a total of 11 controllable fans. I would like to continue using my fan controllers for rad fans. The included splitter has little value to me with this setup.

I wanted to test the pump to see if it is functional before storing the unit for later use. Can I molex it to the psu and start the pump or do i need the sata power? Not really able to google it currently


----------



## SCBuilder

I think my reservoir cracked swapping out the window yesterday







Brand new unit. I'm contemplating using some epoxy on the outside over the crack and hoping for the best.


----------



## Mega Man

just buy a new one they are cheap


----------



## SCBuilder

To me $150 is not something easily discarded. Thank you though.


----------



## Bootas




----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SCBuilder*
> 
> To me $150 is not something easily discarded. Thank you though.


I think he meant that you just get a new reservoir window cover and not a whole new h220/240 or whatever it is that you are running.


----------



## SCBuilder

Ah, sorry for the misunderstanding there. The window isn't cracked, but the reservoir is. I don't see any replacements for that, and they clearly don't want you doing it as the warranty is voided if you separate the res from the pump. I put some Loctite plastic epoxy over the crack though. We'll see what happens.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, the pump should be able to handle that, but there is absolutely no way that the single fan radiator will handle the heat load from those three cards. You'll fry them pretty quickly unless you add at least another triple fan radiator.


I've ordered a H240-X (should get it tomorrow or wednesday) + a 120mm Radiator and fan.

I'm considering replacing the H240-X stock fans with Corsair SP1140 Red fans (http://www.corsair.com/en/air-series-sp140-led-red-high-static-pressure-140mm-fan) for cosmetic reasons.

Swiftech vs Corsair SP140
Airflow range 35 ~ 90 CFM vs 49.49 CFM
Static pressure range 0.25 ~ 2.29 mmH20 vs 1.17 mmH20
Noise level range <8.3 ~ <28.8 dB/A vs 29.3 dBA
Speed 1800RPM vs 1440 RPM

But I think it's not a good idea given the difference in SP and CFM...

The plan is to use it for the AMD A6 CPU + 3 HD7950 GPU.... and to remove the CPU from the loop if the system can't cope (which is likely to happen)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> I'm running a140X and a 360 swifteck qp radiator to cool a 4790 K and two R9- 290X. Under gaming load the CPU is always under 60C and the GPU's run at 50 to 58C. I have my pump running on a pretty quiet profile but by the time the cpu hits 70C everything would be running at 100 per cent but it never gets there just gaming.


Thank you.
That's one less GPU and an additionnal 140mm fan compared to me planned setup









You have 500mm worth of rads and I have 360...

if I don't use the CPU block, I'll connect the PWM splitter to a fan switch I have in my case (Stop/Low/High positions)

I know I have a small case, but less space = better forced airflow, no ?

And I believe the H240-X will fit, as a standard 240mm rad does (this is a manufacturer picture, not my actual setup. )



Just read that:
rule of thumb when watercooling is 120mm per component + and additional 120

So with 360mm for 4 components.... I'm short by a lot








Maybe I could add another 120mm rad outside the case at the rear ?
Rad|fan+rad,
But I'd need a pretty powerful fan to get air sucked through one and pushed through the 2nd ?


----------



## nbrikha

Finally connected my Poseidon to my H240-X loop. I added a 120 rad on the front in push/pull with Noctuas on either side. Noctua Industrials on the top too. I think I'll put the original fans back on though...they're just too damn loud. For coolant I used distilled water and red auto coolant, mixed 90/10. Temps are great, but on two occasions I had a weird temp spike. I did AIDA64 benchmark on GPU and CPU and at the end of the CPU test, temps went up to 80 degrees and fans spinned up to full. Graphics card was in the 30s at the time. Then at idle messing around youtube, it spiked again in the same exact way. Then I played TERA for a few hours and nothing happened since them. Air bubbles? It hasn't happened again since then, but that was yesterday. I mainly wanted to show off but I also have a little worry I did something wrong.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> @BramSLI1 any word on when the mcp35x reservoirs will be back in stock...I decided my mcp50x needed a proper housing before I install it but now it's out of stock


These should be back in stock in about two to three weeks. They are in production right now at our factory.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> Finally connected my Poseidon to my H240-X loop. I added a 120 rad on the front in push/pull with Noctuas on either side. Noctua Industrials on the top too. I think I'll put the original fans back on though...they're just too damn loud. For coolant I used distilled water and red auto coolant, mixed 90/10. Temps are great, but on two occasions I had a weird temp spike. I did AIDA64 benchmark on GPU and CPU and at the end of the CPU test, temps went up to 80 degrees and fans spinned up to full. Graphics card was in the 30s at the time. Then at idle messing around youtube, it spiked again in the same exact way. Then I played TERA for a few hours and nothing happened since them. Air bubbles? It hasn't happened again since then, but that was yesterday. I mainly wanted to show off but I also have a little worry I did something wrong.


That looks really good, but it does sound like air bubbles to me. It can take quite some time and effort to completely bleed one of these kits once it's been expanded.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks really good, but it does sound like air bubbles to me. It can take quite some time and effort to completely bleed one of these kits once it's been expanded.


yeah anywhere from a few days to a few weeks...you can get probably 90 percent out during initial bleed but then you have the remaining that sometimes only comes out after some decent flow dislodges it and heating cooling cycles help too I think


----------



## SCBuilder

-Good news: the epoxy worked!
-Bad news: the Masterkleer 3/8 tubing is too loose on 3/8 barbs. So the res didn't leak, _everything_ else did.
-More good news: Amazon just started offering same day delivery!

At this point I'm considering a waterblock for the gpu which would be easier if I didn't end up with a MSI 970.


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks really good, but it does sound like air bubbles to me. It can take quite some time and effort to completely bleed one of these kits once it's been expanded.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah anywhere from a few days to a few weeks...you can get probably 90 percent out during initial bleed but then you have the remaining that sometimes only comes out after some decent flow dislodges it and heating cooling cycles help too I think


That being said I'll hold off on overclocking the CPU for a few days. Not scared about GPU since it has it's own fans and such. GPU is maxed out on GPUTweak overclock. Got about 10 more fps in Unigine Valley. Temps in the low 50s with GPU fans set to 30%. Playing TERA for a few hours left it at 49 degrees at max overclock. Boost clock was reaching 1532mhz. Pump is left at 100% speed and fans are blowing at 1000 rpm. This is exactly where I wanted to take my H240-X. It doesn't look as cool as some of the more custom water cooling loops out there...I still want to try my brass tubing build...but there was such little effort and pretty economical when compared to custom loops. Right now, the H240-X is my favorite piece in my system. My 980 went from 72 degrees in game at stock to 49 degrees in game WAY overclocked. Fun


----------



## cravinmild

Ok, leak testing my H320 and had a few questions.

I have hooked up the H320 exactly as shown in the instruction booklet. Pump is working, I could feel the pump running as well as hear flow. HWMonitor shows 1800rmp and the pump is almost silent short of putting my ear to it. If I remove the wire to the cpu fan header HWMonitor shows 0 rpm (obviously) but I can hear more flow in the pump. When I connect the pump with just sata power and no cpu fan header connected does this mean the pump is now getting max voltage and not controlled- will this be the noise lvl at full speed. I am ok with the noise, its not gargling just a louder flow sound.

Can I just not instal the splitter component and just run my pump to sata and the other wire to the cpu fan header forgoing the splitter all together? Seems the splitter is for fan control and by removing the splitter but hooking the pump up to the sata with the other wire to cpu fan header i am still using the method suggested but without the splitter .......... if any of that makes sense. I will use my own fan controllers to control fan speed.




Edit to ask

I heard these pumps are not the same one used on the first wave of H320 units but were changed to the same pumps used in the newer X versions. What is all this grip i hear of poor QQ, do I have to worry about a fail in 6 months.

It would seem I have a dead fan right out of the box







We have a Swiftech rep here is this thread do we not. Whats the chances of getting a fan shipped to me vs RMA the which NCIX will most likely want to do ... at my cost











What do you guys think of these fans .... I only have 5 though ... why did i only buy 5 ????


The two stock fans which do work seem to stop for a split second then start again. I can see them doing it while looking but the Loon Yate plugged into the splitter with the other three do not do this. The yate spins without those micropauses like the stock ones have.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Ok, leak testing my H320 and had a few questions.
> 
> I have hooked up the H320 exactly as shown in the instruction booklet. Pump is working, I could feel the pump running as well as hear flow. HWMonitor shows 1800rmp and the pump is almost silent short of putting my ear to it. If I remove the wire to the cpu fan header HWMonitor shows 0 rpm (obviously) but I can hear more flow in the pump. When I connect the pump with just sata power and no cpu fan header connected does this mean the pump is now getting max voltage and not controlled- will this be the noise lvl at full speed. I am ok with the noise, its not gargling just a louder flow sound.
> 
> Can I just not instal the splitter component and just run my pump to sata and the other wire to the cpu fan header forgoing the splitter all together? Seems the splitter is for fan control and by removing the splitter but hooking the pump up to the sata with the other wire to cpu fan header i am still using the method suggested but without the splitter .......... if any of that makes sense. I will use my own fan controllers to control fan speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit to ask
> 
> I heard these pumps are not the same one used on the first wave of H320 units but were changed to the same pumps used in the newer X versions. What is all this grip i hear of poor QQ, do I have to worry about a fail in 6 months.
> 
> It would seem I have a dead fan right out of the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have a Swiftech rep here is this thread do we not. Whats the chances of getting a fan shipped to me vs RMA the which NCIX will most likely want to do ... at my cost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think of these fans .... I only have 5 though ... why did i only buy 5 ????
> 
> 
> The two stock fans which do work seem to stop for a split second then start again. I can see them doing it while looking but the Loon Yate plugged into the splitter with the other three do not do this. The yate spins without those micropauses like the stock ones have.


If you bought this directly through NCIX then they'll have to replace the fan for you. The micropauses you're experiencing might be due to an issue with the PWM signal being fed to them. Try using them on the splitter without having the splitter connected to your CPU fan header. Also, check to make sure your CPU fan header is configured properly for PWM control and not voltage regulation.


----------



## cravinmild

Thank you for the quick response

I will check my bios and set it up as needed as well as your suggest for removing the cpu header lead on the splitter. I will contact ncix directly re the fan but not till I try playing with the plug again. Perhaps it's loose and I missed it and of course your suggestions.

What about the pump, is it the newer version?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Thank you for the quick response
> 
> I will check my bios and set it up as needed as well as your suggest for removing the cpu header lead on the splitter. I will contact ncix directly re the fan but not till I try playing with the plug again. Perhaps it's loose and I missed it and of course your suggestions.
> 
> What about the pump, is it the newer version?


I want to say that whent he 320 was released, it was already on the 2nd revision pump. the Most modern pump should have 3 cables sticking out of it. one for power(sata), a pwm plug and a fan led plug(that is unused). If you have this one, it is the latest revision(as its the one used in the 220x)


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Thank you for the quick response
> 
> I will check my bios and set it up as needed as well as your suggest for removing the cpu header lead on the splitter. I will contact ncix directly re the fan but not till I try playing with the plug again. Perhaps it's loose and I missed it and of course your suggestions.
> 
> What about the pump, is it the newer version?
> 
> 
> 
> I want to say that whent he 320 was released, it was already on the 2nd revision pump. the Most modern pump should have 3 cables sticking out of it. one for power(sata), a pwm plug and a fan led plug(that is unused). If you have this one, it is the latest revision(as its the one used in the 220x)
Click to expand...

Ok I will look again closer. What I did see was a plug which had a sata and cpu fan header all coming from the same plug which was also removable. I saw no other wire but I did not inspect the pump housing hard to see if there was an empty socket to plug a fan led into.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Ok I will look again closer. What I did see was a plug which had a sata and cpu fan header all coming from the same plug which was also removable. I saw no other wire but I did not inspect the pump housing hard to see if there was an empty socket to plug a fan led into.


yeah how it sounds like, it isnt the 220x pump(i woudnt expect so unless you got it off RMA) but sounds like the latest revision of the pump before the h220x was released, as it has a sata connector directly on the pump(original h220 pump only had 1 cable and it was 4 pin, this of course had the most problems)


----------



## TK421

Hi guys, would a Glacer 240L v2 (with 2x AP15 pull) perform better than a H105/110 GTX/100i GTX when used with the same fan configuration and LGA2011 CPU? The glacer is also expandable right?

One last thing. The Glacer 240L v2 pump can run to 3600rpm as opposed to swiftech 3000?


----------



## cravinmild

Ok good to know. Wifey wants her living room back so everything is put away now. i gave myself a few hours to complete this but I must have forgotten how much crap I shoved in this case. This will be a couple day project ... More if I want to mod a h110 to my gpu. That will require me possibly relocating my psu to the front top drive bays of the case

New parts are so exciting lol


----------



## Liranan

Thanks to ambient temperatures here being 30-40 sometimes, maybe even more, I am looking at buying an H220-X but I keep reading about pump failures.

Can you guys tell me how to tell the difference between the revision that was prone to failure and the one that is good?

Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Thanks to ambient temperatures here being 30-40 sometimes, maybe even more, I am looking at buying an H220-X but I keep reading about pump failures.
> 
> Can you guys tell me how to tell the difference between the revision that was prone to failure and the one that is good?
> 
> Thanks.


I'm not sure where you are reading about H220-X pump failures, but it certainly isn't here among the actual users. While the older H220 had known pump issues, the H220-X pump has been stellar as far as reliability from all reports.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not sure where you are reading about H220-X pump failures, but it certainly isn't here among the actual users. While the older H220 had known pump issues, the H220-X pump has been stellar as far as reliability from all reports.


There's a particular user on several forums, one who I haven't seen here, who's spreading this around.


----------



## LezOU

Well,

I received all my HW this morning and guess what:

The waterblocks foe the GPU don't fit
















I made a mistake when I check for compatibility..

My cards are SAPPHIRE HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 WITH BOOST
Ref: 11196-19

And the full cover waterblocks are for 11196-1*0*









Otherwise I installed the H240-F and the cpu block in my tiny Cooltek W2











I hope the pump never leaks... it right on the mobo power connector


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I received all my HW this morning and guess what:
> 
> The waterblocks foe the GPU don't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a mistake when I check for compatibility..
> 
> My cards are SAPPHIRE HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 WITH BOOST
> Ref: 11196-19
> 
> And the full cover waterblocks are for 11196-1*0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I installed the H240-F and the cpu block in my tiny Cooltek W2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the pump never leaks... it right on the mobo power connector


That looks pretty great. I think hoses and fitting or the reservoir would leak before the pump does. Cool setup, a lot of neat things you could do with that loop setup with GPU blocks. Can't wait for an update


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> That looks pretty great. I think hoses and fitting or the reservoir would leak before the pump does. Cool setup, a lot of neat things you could do with that loop setup with GPU blocks. Can't wait for an update


I think I should have intalled the CPU block the other way round so the wire would be on the right and I could loop/tuck it somewhere neater.

Anyway, everything is going to be removed when I'll have to add the 3 EK-Thermosphere - PLEXI and the EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel.

And tubing is going to be red









This is going to be tricky as the tank window is inside so I'll have to leave the H240-F outside while bleeding and then only put it back in.

I'm also thinking of setting up the front fan so they blow air from the case to the outside.
There's a vent+filter at the bottom of the case to get fresh air in.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a particular user on several forums, one who I haven't seen here, who's spreading this around.


And let me guess.....this user is advocating CLCs in the same breath? LOL


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And let me guess.....this user is advocating CLCs in the same breath? LOL


Actually no, he is advocating custom kits or something like the Raijintek Triton. That part I don't have an issue with but I have given up trying to convince him that the pumps are completely different even after I provided pics of the disassembled pumps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Actually no, he is advocating custom kits or something like the Raijintek Triton. That part I don't have an issue with but I have given up trying to convince him that the pumps are completely different even after I provided pics of the disassembled pumps.


Custom kits I could see....but the Triton/Cooler Master Eisberg? The open loop with the pump too weak to add components to? The same Eisberg/Triton that you can hear the pump from two rooms away? That one?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Custom kits I could see....but the Triton/Cooler Master Eisberg? The open loop with the pump too weak to add components to? The same Eisberg/Triton that you can hear the pump from two rooms away? That one?


I wouldn't know because Raijintek has been promising to send one for almost an year now









Is it based off the Alphacool Eisberg completely? Aquatuning and Alphacool do not advertise it as such.


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> I think I should have intalled the CPU block the other way round so the wire would be on the right and I could loop/tuck it somewhere neater.
> 
> Anyway, everything is going to be removed when I'll have to add the 3 EK-Thermosphere - PLEXI and the EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel.
> 
> And tubing is going to be red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be tricky as the tank window is inside so I'll have to leave the H240-F outside while bleeding and then only put it back in.
> 
> I'm also thinking of setting up the front fan so they blow air from the case to the outside.
> There's a vent+filter at the bottom of the case to get fresh air in.


I have all my fans blowing in. But I also have an extra 120mm rad. Lots of space for heat to dissipate and I don't have but one other fan blowing air in. Any circulation is better than none


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> I have all my fans blowing in. But I also have an extra 120mm rad. Lots of space for heat to dissipate and I don't have but one other fan blowing air in. Any circulation is better than none


I plan to add a 120mm rad on the rear fan, because the H240-X and this additional rad are not going to be too much for 1CPU and 3GPU.... but space (and aesthetics) is an issue.


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> I plan to add a 120mm rad on the rear fan, because the H240-X and this additional rad are not going to be too much for 1CPU and 3GPU.... but space (and aesthetics) is an issue.


From what I know about heat dissipation, you need another 240mm rad, not an additional 120. I know space is a factor, but that's gonna be a lot of heat on those rads. I have a 4790K to one GTX 980 on that exact same setup...and my 980 probably produces less heat than one of your AMDs. Maybe an external radiator?


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> From what I know about heat dissipation, you need another 240mm rad, not an additional 120. I know space is a factor, but that's gonna be a lot of heat on those rads. I have a 4790K to one GTX 980 on that exact same setup...and my 980 probably produces less heat than one of your AMDs. Maybe an external radiator?


I'll see how it goes first.

If it's struggling, I can add a 2nd 120mm outside the case at the back.

So i'll have rad|fan+rad.
And maybe change the current fan for a better one to cope with airflow restriction of the 2 radiators.

I have a GTX980 Gold in another computer and it's a lot quieter than my former HD7970... but only cooler by 5/7C.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> I'll see how it goes first.
> 
> If it's struggling, I can add a 2nd 120mm outside the case at the back.
> 
> So i'll have rad|fan+rad.
> And maybe change the current fan for a better one to cope with airflow restriction of the 2 radiators.
> 
> I have a GTX980 Gold in another computer and it's a lot quieter than my former HD7970... but only cooler by 5/7C.


I've seen people use standoffs and mount 360mm rad to the rear of the case but on yours that might block ports...one other option may be a rad enclosure on the top of the case if the back has port holes...but I'm thinking there isn't going to be enough rad space...if you did do the 120 fan 120 I would recommend a second fan either inside or farthest from the case if you don't have room...it's gonna be rough for one fan to perform with two 120 rads


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I've seen people use standoffs and mount 360mm rad to the rear of the case but on yours that might block ports...one other option may be a rad enclosure on the top of the case if the back has port holes...but I'm thinking there isn't going to be enough rad space...if you did do the 120 fan 120 I would recommend a second fan either inside or farthest from the case if you don't have room...it's gonna be rough for one fan to perform with two 120 rads


I can use 2 Corsair SP120
http://www.corsair.com/en/air-series-sp120-led-red-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan

They have good SP rating so they should be able to cope with 2 rads.... now I'll need to be creative with attachment as screws don't go through my rads









But hey, we're not there yet


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> I can use 2 Corsair SP120
> http://www.corsair.com/en/air-series-sp120-led-red-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan
> 
> They have good SP rating so they should be able to cope with 2 rads.... now I'll need to be creative with attachment as screws don't go through my rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hey, we're not there yet


must good rads have a plate to help prevent that..also I would recommend Allen head screws and a stubby Allen wrench for the sandwich else "you're gonna have a bad time" (kudos for those that get this one)...I have actually seen people cut one off on the l end to make life easier


----------



## LezOU

Who said they were good rads ?
















In fact I have *not* checked yet all the rad I have.
I know one is basic, I have another 2 to check.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I wouldn't know because Raijintek has been promising to send one for almost an year now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it based off the Alphacool Eisberg completely? Aquatuning and Alphacool do not advertise it as such.


I haven't opened one up, but I have seen numerous reports that it is the Alphacool DC/LT pump in there, and the fact that the specs happen to be identical.....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Who said they were good rads ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I have checked yet all the rad I have.
> I know one is basic, I have another 2 to check.


point taken..I would measure a few times just to be sure







...


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> point taken..I would measure a few times just to be sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, I just checked and they're crap.

But thinking of it, I have another solution.

My case is equipped with 2x120mm slot at the bottom.

Available hight is reduced, but as I'll be removing the large heatsink and fans from the GPU, a 240mm would fit.

Although it'd have to be fanless.

http://s50.photobucket.com/user/zou5376/media/Mobile Uploads/w2_wc.jpg.html

So I could have the H240-X radiator at the front (with fans), and another fanless 240 radiator at the bottom

a radiator is 30mm thick, I'll have between 30mm (current) and 60mm (distance from bottom to GPU PCB).

a radiator is 25mm so it's definitely won't fit, except if I can source some 120x120x15mm, then, it "might" work.... if the components on the GPU don't exceed 14mm...

*Now: will the H240-X pump support 2 240mm radiators and 4 waterblocks... ?*


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Well, I just checked and they're crap.
> 
> But thinking of it, I have another solution.
> 
> My case is equipped with 2x120mm slot at the bottom.
> 
> Available hight is reduced, but as I'll be removing the large heatsink and fans from the GPU, a 240mm would fit.
> 
> Although it'd have to be fanless.
> 
> http://s50.photobucket.com/user/zou5376/media/Mobile Uploads/w2_wc.jpg.html
> 
> So I could have the H240-X radiator at the front (with fans), and another fanless 240 radiator at the bottom
> 
> a radiator is 30mm thick, I'll have between 30mm (current) and 60mm (distance from bottom to GPU PCB).
> 
> a radiator is 25mm so it's definitely won't fit, except if I can source some 120x120x15mm, then, it "might" work.... if the components on the GPU don't exceed 14mm...
> 
> *Now: will the H240-X pump support 2 240mm radiators and 4 waterblocks... ?*


No, that's asking a bit too much from this pump. I would recommend adding another pump into that loop.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, that's asking a bit too much from this pump. I would recommend adding another pump into that loop.


yeah mines probably over the max with three blocks three rads and a second res..it handled it but it doesn't without 100 percent speed all.the time on all fans and pump...I haven't measured flow but it's not ideal I'm sure...also in the case of the rad on the bottom you could get a slim fans and mount them under the case...but once again finding a spot for a second pump will be interesting...


----------



## LezOU

Thank you BramSLI, I couldn't find the MCP30 specs to try and check.

Adding another pump is not really an option space wise, so maybe removing the ApogeeXL will be the solution.

Priority is cooling the GPU correctly

So if the pump becomes the limitation factor, then final setup will be
H240-X (minus Apogee XL)
1x120mm rad at the back
3x EK thermosphere + EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel

And that should be a nice setup.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Thank you BramSLI, I couldn't find the MCP30 specs to try and check.
> 
> Adding another pump is not really an option space wise, so maybe removing the ApogeeXL will be the solution.
> 
> Priority is cooling the GPU correctly
> 
> So if the pump becomes the limitation factor, then final setup will be
> H240-X (minus Apogee XL)
> 1x120mm rad at the back
> 3x EK thermosphere + EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Z77 Parallel
> 
> And that should be a nice setup.


The Apogee XL adds very little restriction. Your EK blocks are probably more restrictive. Will you be running them in parallel or series? Removing the Apogee XL won't really help your situation. You really do need to look at adding another pump to handle the amount of restriction from those components.


----------



## LezOU

Even with the parallèle bridge ?


If I chose to add another pump, wouldn't it need to have similar specifications (or close)?

A slower pump would impede the MCP30, and faster pump wouldn't be fully efficient ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415725/a-guide-to-water-cooling-multiple-gpus

(just thinking out loud here...)

2 other options:
1: is the H240-X pump upgradable ? (mcp35b/x or other?)

2: There may be enough space under the H240-X radiators (bottom-right of the pic posted earlier) for a small pump like the mcp355,


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Hi guys, would a Glacer 240L v2 (with 2x AP15 pull) perform better than a H105/110 GTX/100i GTX when used with the same fan configuration and LGA2011 CPU? The glacer is also expandable right?
> 
> One last thing. The Glacer 240L v2 pump can run to 3600rpm as opposed to swiftech 3000?


----------



## Twitchn

After reading about water cooling and researching parts for a few months I took the plunge and placed a order:

1.Swiftech H240-X CPU Liquid Cooling Kit

2.XSPC EX240 Copper Du al-Fan Rad

3.EK-FC970 G TX WF3 - N ickel full waterblock

4.XSPC Photo n 170 Tube Reservoir

5.Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting 90° Revolvable G1/4 X4

6Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting 45° Revolvable G1/4 X2.

7.Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting G1/4 X3

8.Enzotech D rain Plug G 1/4 Thre aded Cap - 3/8" Barb X2

9.EK-Vardar F4-120 (22 00rpm) Hig h Performa nce Liquid Cooling F an X2

10.Mayhems Pa stel Coola nt - 1 Lit er - Red X2

11.Primochill Polypropy lene "T" F itting 3/8 " - UV Col ors

12.PrimoFlex Advanced L RT 10ft Tu bing - 3/8 in. ID X 5 /8in. OD - Crystal C lear

I made a little drawing of what flow will be as this will go in my sig system:



I hope I got the right flow pattern.

I will update and put more pics up as soon as parts come in!!!


----------



## Durtmagurt

My h220x setup
What you guys think?


----------



## TK421

Does swiftech plan to release something like a H*120*x or something?


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> My h220x setup
> What you guys think?


Looks good but is it ok to mount the 220x that direction?


----------



## Durtmagurt

I know it was a pain in the ass to fill/bleed but everything is running great under load CPU 32°c gpu1 53°c gpu2 55°c that running valley on loop.


----------



## Durtmagurt

It appears to be okay going on the picture that comes with the 220x box.


----------



## Twitchn

Well this gives me an idea







I might do something like you did and put it in the front


----------



## Durtmagurt

Yea I cut a hole in my drive bay big enough for push pull to be mounted on it but having it like this I had to blow air through my fill port on top and force air high enough to reach the pump. Was not fun but well worth.


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durtmagurt*
> 
> Yea I cut a hole in my drive bay big enough for push pull to be mounted on it but having it like this I had to blow air through my fill port on top and force air high enough to reach the pump. Was not fun but well worth.


I think I will make the fill port on the 240x a drain port with a valve and stopper. You would think the pump being lower that the res would make it easier to fill with a external tube res.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Hi guys, would a Glacer 240L v2 (with 2x AP15 pull) perform better than a H105/110 GTX/100i GTX when used with the same fan configuration and LGA2011 CPU? The glacer is also expandable right?
> 
> One last thing. The Glacer 240L v2 pump can run to 3600rpm as opposed to swiftech 3000?


It will definitely outperform it if you don't use those Corsair fans....why are you looking to downgrade the fans?

Yes, it is expandable and has a 3600rpm pump.


----------



## SCBuilder

I seem to be hearing an air bubble right around the pump. I've tried pulsing the power on and off, and tipping the rig around but I haven't gotten the sound to stop or the bubble to move to the res. Any thoughts here? It is closed up at the moment and my 24 hours of leak test is almost over with no issues but I'd like to sort out the noise.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Hey everyone.

I currently have Corsair H100i GTX in my build ( since H240x was not in stock last week ) - but swiftech had it in stock today so I went ahead and purchased it.

I have a question regarding installation. Was it hard at all? or is it as easy as installing a H100i?

Thanks!


----------



## Durtmagurt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I think I will make the fill port on the 240x a drain port with a valve and stopper. You would think the pump being lower that the res would make it easier to fill with a external tube res.


If you mount the 220x like I did I think it will be a challenge but doable just the way the inlet sits on the rad and gravity keeping the liquid down. But hey you never know till you try.

Just wanted to say I love my h-220x best buy I've made..


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> I currently have Corsair H100i GTX in my build ( since H240x was not in stock last week ) - but swiftech had it in stock today so I went ahead and purchased it.
> 
> I have a question regarding installation. Was it hard at all? or is it as easy as installing a H100i?
> 
> Thanks!


For me it was really easy....If you have a case that doesn't have the opening on the back where the cpu is at, then it will be a bit of a pain..


----------



## sav4

Just got a shipped confirmation from pccasegear my h240x will soon be in my hands ya ?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> For me it was really easy....If you have a case that doesn't have the opening on the back where the cpu is at, then it will be a bit of a pain..


Ah, my case is corsair air 540 and it has opening in the back so it should be easy then.

As for the supplied thermal paste - is it good quality or should I use my mx-4?

Thanks.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Ah, my case is corsair air 540 and it has opening in the back so it should be easy then.
> 
> As for the supplied thermal paste - is it good quality or should I use my mx-4?
> 
> Thanks.


Any one would be ok.. I used arctic silver ceramique and it really made no difference in temps..


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Ah, my case is corsair air 540 and it has opening in the back so it should be easy then.
> 
> As for the supplied thermal paste - is it good quality or should I use my mx-4?
> 
> Thanks.


I was wondering the same thing and found this .
http://www.overclock.net/t/1536929/stock-thermal-paste-vs-gelid-extreme-on-a-h240x


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> After reading about water cooling and researching parts for a few months I took the plunge and placed a order:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I got the right flow pattern.
> 
> I will update and put more pics up as soon as parts come in!!!


Out of curiosity, why did you add another res and rad ?
It adds tubing and restriction.

Note that i'm not an expert, just building my setup (check previous pages or my posts)


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you add another res and rad ?
> It adds tubing and restriction.
> 
> Note that i'm not an expert, just building my setup (check previous pages or my posts)


I added another res for looks and another rad for more cooling, as from reading it seems that it takes 120rad+ 120rad for every component being cooled.
I still might add a Swiftech MCP50x to the loop also as to give alot more flow for future, but I do not understand how this pump will work with the 50x . Since both pumps run at different speeds I do not see how they will operate with each other.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I still might add a Swiftech MCP50x to the loop also as to give alot more flow for future, but I do not understand how this pump will work with the 50x . Since both pumps run at different speeds I do not see how they will operate with each other.


Bamsli recommended I add a pump to my setup too.
I hope he will reply to my post earlier in this thread to shed some light on compatibility.

I have 1CPU cooled now, but need to add my 3 GPU.

Stay tuned, hopefully he'll be around at some point









In the meantime, have you checked the following ?
There's a section about multiple pumps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415725/a-guide-to-water-cooling-multiple-gpus

The main thing is we don't have the specs of the MCP30 so it's difficult to find another identical (or not too different technically) pump.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/16140#post_24016936


----------



## sav4

Rule of thumb is 120 per component and a extra 120 per component if you want to oc .
From what I've read both those pumps will work together and at least u have a backup should one fail


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Rule of thumb is 120 per component and a extra 120 per component if you want to oc .
> From what I've read both those pumps will work together and at least u have a backup should one fail


I am still confused at how the 50x will work with the the 240x pump.
Won't the faster and more powerful flow of the 50x cause the 240x pump to eventually just break down from sheer overworking?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Sorry guys but I have a new set of question(s). Please bear with me.

1. I'm thinking of switching the tube(s) to either clear or white. What's the best way to drain the coolant?

2. If I chose clear tubing, are there any downsides if I used dyed coolant?

3. ' HydrX PM 2 Coolant ' is out of stock on their website. What brand of coolant do you recommend?

4. What brand of tubing do you guys recommend?

5. After re-filling the reservoir to max with coolant, Are there anything specific I need to do ( such as priming? ) or is that not necessary?

If it's necessary, what's the best way to prime the H240x?

Thank you!


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I am still confused at how the 50x will work with the the 240x pump.
> Won't the faster and more powerful flow of the 50x cause the 240x pump to eventually just break down from sheer overworking?


There are some guys in these threads using different pumps as long as there are components in between and the pumps army one after another

http://www.overclock.net/t/1556684/2-different-pumps-in-loop
And this one
http://www.overclock.net/t/1167701/can-i-use-different-pumps-in-the-same-loop


----------



## sav4

Otherwise you have 2 other options get another mc35 and a housing or if you want the performance of a mc50 they apparently fit in the h240x as the mcp35 is a detuned mcp50


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Otherwise you have 2 other options get another mc35 and a housing or if you want the performance of a mc50 they apparently fit in the h240x as the mcp35 is a detuned mcp50


Those were some great threads mate!!! I got my question answered here:

"Putting two pumps in a loop is fine and it makes no difference where they are placed. Putting them right next to each other is no different to having one half of the loop away. In fact having them both together, close to the res, is probably always the best option for keeping air out of pumps.

Centrifugal pumps just spin water fast. They don't really care what the flow rate is. The flow of a loop is determined by the total pump pressure created by the spinning water VS the total loop resistance. Where different components are placed does not affect anything at all.

Flow in the loop does not slow down after components. It is exactly the same along the entire loop. If you think about it for flow to be high at the pump and lower after several components would require water to be vanishing.

For these reasons a stronger pump can never overpower a weaker pump or anything like that. The pumps spin the water much faster than the water flows, especially at the flow rates possible in a loop. So a strong pump can never supply fluid to a weaker pump at rate faster than it is spinning or can output.
As an example, two pumps in a loop will provide the exact same flow rate if the first is at full speed and the second at min, or if the first at min and the second at full."


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> After reading about water cooling and researching parts for a few months I took the plunge and placed a order:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I got the right flow pattern.
> 
> I will update and put more pics up as soon as parts come in!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you add another res and rad ?
> It adds tubing and restriction.
> 
> Note that i'm not an expert, just building my setup (check previous pages or my posts)
Click to expand...

not worth noting or caring about ( the extra "restriction" ) cpu and gpu blocks are really all you need to care about when putting together a loop

not that i think you should put a extra res below a pump just a fyi,

round 3 blocks you want ( IMO ) to worry about another pump ( again either cpu or gpu )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Rule of thumb is 120 per component and a extra 120 per component if you want to oc .
> From what I've read both those pumps will work together and at least u have a backup should one fail


this is the min correct see below for pump infos
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Sorry guys but I have a new set of question(s). Please bear with me.
> 
> 1. I'm thinking of switching the tube(s) to either clear or white. What's the best way to drain the coolant?
> 
> 2. If I chose clear tubing, are there any downsides if I used dyed coolant?
> 
> 3. ' HydrX PM 2 Coolant ' is out of stock on their website. What brand of coolant do you recommend?
> 
> 4. What brand of tubing do you guys recommend?
> 
> 5. After re-filling the reservoir to max with coolant, Are there anything specific I need to do ( such as priming? ) or is that not necessary?
> 
> If it's necessary, what's the best way to prime the H240x?
> 
> Thank you!


NP

1 i have yet to find a great way tbh without a filling hole and a draining line

read this
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/

so ... yes to #2

3- distilled water and a biociode personally i dont like kill coils, but that is a personal thing i personally recomend PT Nuke or iandh deadwater

4 - major name brand if you want it to stay clear the longest, or homedepot if you dont care if it is cloudy

5 as long as it is full prime it, make sure the pump NEVER runs dry if it does shut off and fill some more

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I am still confused at how the 50x will work with the the 240x pump.
> Won't the faster and more powerful flow of the 50x cause the 240x pump to eventually just break down from sheer overworking?
> 
> 
> 
> There are some guys in these threads using different pumps as long as there are components in between and the pumps army one after another
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1556684/2-different-pumps-in-loop
> And this one
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1167701/can-i-use-different-pumps-in-the-same-loop
Click to expand...

martin from martinsliquid lab has stated you can use any pump with another pump it wont hurt anything


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It will definitely outperform it if you don't use those Corsair fans....why are you looking to downgrade the fans?
> 
> Yes, it is expandable and has a 3600rpm pump.


Don't like the noise signature of the SP fans, GTs are much easier on the ear.


----------



## sav4

@ twitchn thanks for the info dude ?


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> @ twitchn thanks for the info dude ?


No problem mate this community is awesome!!!!


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not worth noting or caring about ( the extra "restriction" ) cpu and gpu blocks are really all you need to care about when putting together a loop
> 
> not that i think you should put a extra res below a pump just a fyi,
> 
> round 3 blocks you want ( IMO ) to worry about another pump ( again either cpu or gpu )
> this is the min correct see below for pump infos
> NP
> 
> 1 i have yet to find a great way tbh without a filling hole and a draining line
> 
> read this
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
> 
> so ... yes to #2
> 
> 3- distilled water and a biociode personally i dont like kill coils, but that is a personal thing i personally recomend PT Nuke or iandh deadwater
> 
> 4 - major name brand if you want it to stay clear the longest, or homedepot if you dont care if it is cloudy
> 
> 5 as long as it is full prime it, make sure the pump NEVER runs dry if it does shut off and fill some more
> martin from martinsliquid lab has stated you can use any pump with another pump it wont hurt anything


Thank you for the info.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 i have yet to find a great way tbh without a filling hole and a draining line
> 
> read this
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
> 
> so ... yes to #2
> 
> 3- distilled water and a biociode personally i dont like kill coils, but that is a personal thing i personally recomend PT Nuke or iandh deadwater
> 
> 4 - major name brand if you want it to stay clear the longest, or homedepot if you dont care if it is cloudy
> 
> 5 as long as it is full prime it, make sure the pump NEVER runs dry if it does shut off and fill some more


Thanks for the answers. May I ask why you don't like kill coils?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Don't like the noise signature of the SP fans, GTs are much easier on the ear.


I misunderstood, when I saw "SP" I was thinking Corsair SP.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

The pumps run off of pwm signal...so it's a percentage and the run independently...it's not like in ski or crossfire where the sites have to be the same...do mcp30 would run somewhere around 3k at 100% and 50x would run around 3500 I think...you could run six pumps right after one another and as long as one doesn't run another dry you wouldn't ever have a problem...note to you guys if you do expand and put second pump/res I would recommend using the second pump only when filling...trust me when I say you don't want to fight keeping two pumps wet at the same time...and jump your psu to avoid issue if you have a leak


----------



## LezOU

After a few hours of thinking, I'm going to add a 5,25" water tank with integrated pump.

After all, it's on the official Cooltek W2 website:










Probably the XSPC H2O 420.

Pumps don't have to run off PWM, they can be powered using a 4pins molex connector


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> After a few hours of thinking, I'm going to add a 5,25" water tank with integrated pump.
> 
> After all, it's on the official Cooltek W2 website:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably the XSPC H2O 420.
> 
> Pumps don't have to run off PWM, they can be powered using a 4pins molex connector


those particular pumps run off of sata power and use for pin connector via pwm for speed management...I personally run mine flat out it's not loud anyway...connecting via molex (not possible on these pumps) would run at 100 percent all the time


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 i have yet to find a great way tbh without a filling hole and a draining line
> 
> read this
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
> 
> so ... yes to #2
> 
> 3- distilled water and a biociode personally i dont like kill coils, but that is a personal thing i personally recomend PT Nuke or iandh deadwater
> 
> 4 - major name brand if you want it to stay clear the longest, or homedepot if you dont care if it is cloudy
> 
> 5 as long as it is full prime it, make sure the pump NEVER runs dry if it does shut off and fill some more
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answers. May I ask why you don't like kill coils?
Click to expand...

I like complete solutions. And nickel can reach to silver. Not in every case but it can.

Check out a product disclaimer on Koolance Web page.


----------



## cravinmild

well not completely done yet but i did get my H320 installed. Temps are around 23c startup, 25-28c idle ..... not sure of load as im still working the graphics cooling. I do have a few pics but ill upload them when the job is done.

Thanks for the help btw, it helped a lot


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> After reading about water cooling and researching parts for a few months I took the plunge and placed a order:
> 
> 1.Swiftech H240-X CPU Liquid Cooling Kit
> 
> 2.XSPC EX240 Copper Du al-Fan Rad
> 
> 3.EK-FC970 G TX WF3 - N ickel full waterblock
> 
> 4.XSPC Photo n 170 Tube Reservoir
> 
> 5.Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting 90° Revolvable G1/4 X4
> 
> 6Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting 45° Revolvable G1/4 X2.
> 
> 7.Alphacool 16/10 Comp ression Fi tting G1/4 X3
> 
> 8.Enzotech D rain Plug G 1/4 Thre aded Cap - 3/8" Barb X2
> 
> 9.EK-Vardar F4-120 (22 00rpm) Hig h Performa nce Liquid Cooling F an X2
> 
> 10.Mayhems Pa stel Coola nt - 1 Lit er - Red X2
> 
> 11.Primochill Polypropy lene "T" F itting 3/8 " - UV Col ors
> 
> 12.PrimoFlex Advanced L RT 10ft Tu bing - 3/8 in. ID X 5 /8in. OD - Crystal C lear
> 
> I made a little drawing of what flow will be as this will go in my sig system:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I got the right flow pattern.
> 
> I will update and put more pics up as soon as parts come in!!!


That flow pattern is incorrect. The flow starts from the pump.


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That flow pattern is incorrect. The flow starts from the pump.


It is going from the pump to the front rad just not clear from my bad picture


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> It is going from the pump to the front rad just not clear from my bad picture


your picture shows the flow being opposite of how it really runs the fitting on the inside of the unit is the feed the one in the outside nearest fillport is the return so the flow will be actually counterclockwise


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, that's asking a bit too much from this pump. I would recommend adding another pump into that loop.


So just to have your final seal of approval









H240-X (inc the CPU waterblock)
X2O 420 Single Bayres/Pump link to specs
Magicool 240 G2 Slim Radiator +2x Phobya G-Silent 12
3x EK=Thermosphere + EK-FC Terminal triple 777 parallel

Thank you very much BramSLI1 and all for your comments and help !


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> So just to have your final seal of approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H240-X (inc the CPU waterblock)
> X2O 420 Single Bayres/Pump link to specs
> Magicool 240 G2 Slim Radiator +2x Phobya G-Silent 12
> 3x EK=Thermosphere + EK-FC Terminal triple 777 parallel
> 
> Thank you very much BramSLI1 and all for your comments and help !


Yes, you can do that. The only issue is that I'm not very confident in the reliability of that bay reservoir pump. Some time ago, before I worked for Swiftech, I used one of their pumps and it was noisy and didn't last very long. Just a word of caution. I hope their quality has improved since I last used any of their products.


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> your picture shows the flow being opposite of how it really runs the fitting on the inside of the unit is the feed the one in the outside nearest fillport is the return so the flow will be actually counterclockwise


I bought a 50x pump last night so I could be a bit more secure.







Would this be a better flow?


----------



## LezOU

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, you can do that. The only issue is that I'm not very confident in the reliability of that bay reservoir pump. Some time ago, before I worked for Swiftech, I used one of their pumps and it was noisy and didn't last very long. Just a word of caution. I hope their quality has improved since I last used any of their products.


Thank you !!!

beer's on me next time you come around my side of the pond


----------



## Miss Roxy

Hi again! I have another question. D:

( Sorry, I'm a total noob at watercooling )

Um... in my previous post, I asked whether or not priming was required ( For h240x ). Would something cheap like this PSU works? http://www.amazon.com/iMicro-IM400W-ATX12V-Power-Supply/dp/B002HREGRM/ref=sr_1_44?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1433958855&sr=1-44&keywords=power+supply and this jump start http://www.ebay.com/itm/251324032532?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or do you recommend something else? :x

Any opinion regarding this tubing? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0Q55MC?colid=2H9GYZO38S1CN&coliid=I2YBLI25VJISR2&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl or should I go for another brand?

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I bought a 50x pump last night so I could be a bit more secure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would this be a better flow?


That's the correct flow pattern and yes, that will work. Just make sure that there is coolant flowing through these pumps before you start them. The last thing you want to do is have a pump suck on air. They will overheat due to excess friction and burn out very quickly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Hi again! I have another question. D:
> 
> ( Sorry, I'm a total noob at watercooling )
> 
> Um... in my previous post, I asked whether or not priming was required ( For h240x ). Would something cheap like this PSU works? http://www.amazon.com/iMicro-IM400W-ATX12V-Power-Supply/dp/B002HREGRM/ref=sr_1_44?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1433958855&sr=1-44&keywords=power+supply and this jump start http://www.ebay.com/itm/251324032532?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Or do you recommend something else? :x
> 
> Any opinion regarding this tubing? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0Q55MC?colid=2H9GYZO38S1CN&coliid=I2YBLI25VJISR2&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl or should I go for another brand?
> 
> Thanks!


Priming is not required for one of these kits if you're using it right out of the box. If you're expanding it or modifying it, then yes, you will have to prime it. That power supply should work fine for doing that. That tubing should work fine as well.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Priming is not required for one of these kits if you're using it right out of the box. If you're expanding it or modifying it, then yes, you will have to prime it. That power supply should work fine for doing that. That tubing should work fine as well.


Yeah I'm planning on switching the tube to a clear one.

Thanks! =D


----------



## Twitchn

Ok after
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's the correct flow pattern and yes, that will work. Just make sure that there is coolant flowing through these pumps before you start them. The last thing you want to do is have a pump suck on air. They will overheat due to excess friction and burn out very quickly.


Good point! Would it be fine to use the 50x to fill the system then turn on the 240x pump once the system is filled and bled?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Would it be okay to use primochill pure performance ( clear ) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJOJC8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 in h240x or do you guys have better suggestion for a premix coolant?

( If i do use primochill coolant, how long will it last before I have to do maintenance? )

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> Ok after
> Good point! Would it be fine to use the 50x to fill the system then turn on the 240x pump once the system is filled and bled?


Yes, in fact, that's the best way to do this since you have the second reservoir already located in a position where it can gravity feed the 50X.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Are the h240x's in great demand? cause' it's OOS yet again in just a day, lol. ( or is it because swiftech does not manufacture that many at a time? )


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Are the h240x's in great demand? cause' it's OOS yet again in just a day, lol. ( or is it because swiftech does not manufacture that many at a time? )


There are plenty here:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/swiftech-h240-x-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

How are people finding noise quality of the pump & fans on these? The issue with AIO's and WC stuff is always the pump noise when doing google searches.

There's 2 reviews that kind of contradict each other in the decibel readings with minimum speeds. http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6795/swiftech-h220-x-all-in-one-cpu-cooler-review/index7.html and http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2

I currently have a NHD15 cooling my CPU and it is very quiet at idle & mid speeds, but i was thinking of water cooling a new GPU with a full cover block. But if it's going to increase noise quite a bit then i will just buy a card that comes with a custom air cooler, because i don't think i'd be happy at all otherwise







. Not really sure if it's worth doing that to be honest because the cost is quite high as well.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perfect_Chaos*
> 
> How are people finding noise quality of the pump & fans on these? The issue with AIO's and WC stuff is always the pump noise when doing google searches.
> 
> There's 2 reviews that kind of contradict each other in the decibel readings with minimum speeds. http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6795/swiftech-h220-x-all-in-one-cpu-cooler-review/index7.html and http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=2
> 
> I currently have a NHD15 cooling my CPU and it is very quiet at idle & mid speeds, but i was thinking of water cooling a new GPU with a full cover block. But if it's going to increase noise quite a bit then i will just buy a card that comes with a custom air cooler, because i don't think i'd be happy at all otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Not really sure if it's worth doing that to be honest because the cost is quite high as well.


there is no standard decibel system due to tests in distance, tools to record, and type of case they are using. when it comes to fans and acoustics in general, most decibel rating systems is very unreliable. they are usually only useful for making side by side comparisons given the same testing situation, and cannot really be cross referenced to another review.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Um... I have another question. D:

Could someone explain how the pump work on H240x? Does it automatically run at max RPM when I connect the pump to sata port...? or do I have to set it in BIOS?

Do I have to tinker around with the RPM setting? and if so, what RPM should it ideally run at? o_o


----------



## LezOU

The H240-X connectors are:

a-2 Fans 3 pins connectors
b-1 Pump 4 pins connector (control link)
c-1 pump SATA connector (power link)
d-1 cpu waterblock 3 pin connector

and 1 PWM splitter.
================================================================
If you use the PWM splitter:
b -> channel 1 of the PWM splitter
a -> any other channel of the PWN splitter

The splitter itself should be connected to your motherboard CPU_FAN connector and a SATA port to provide power to the 2 fans.
This way, the pump and fan are controlled by your BIOS and they're powered according to your CPU temp.

d should be connected to any system+fan connector of your mobo (just a LED power supply)
c is the power connector for the pump *(very important !)*
================================================================
If you don't use the porvided PWM splitter (like me)
b- is connected directly to your motherboard CPU_FAN connector to control the pump speed.
a -to either a SYSTEM_FAN connector or anything you want to use to control fan speed.
d- to either a SYSTEM_FAN connector or anything you want to power up the waterblock LED
c is the power connector for the pump *(very important !)*
================================================================
All the above is also explained ont his post and of course in the official guide


----------



## kurei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> The H240-X connectors are:
> 
> a-2 Fans 3 pins connectors
> b-1 Pump 4 pins connector (control link)
> c-1 pump SATA connector (power link)
> d-1 cpu waterblock 3 pin connector
> 
> and 1 PWM splitter.
> ================================================================
> If you use the PWM splitter:
> b -> channel 1 of the PWM splitter
> a -> any other channel of the PWN splitter
> 
> The splitter itself should be connected to your motherboard CPU_FAN connector and a SATA port to provide power to the 2 fans.
> This way, the pump and fan are controlled by your BIOS and they're powered according to your CPU temp.
> 
> d should be connected to any system+fan connector of your mobo (just a LED power supply)
> c is the power connector for the pump *(very important !)*
> ================================================================
> If you don't use the porvided PWM splitter (like me)
> b- is connected directly to your motherboard CPU_FAN connector to control the pump speed.
> a -to either a SYSTEM_FAN connector or anything you want to use to control fan speed.
> d- to either a SYSTEM_FAN connector or anything you want to power up the waterblock LED
> c is the power connector for the pump *(very important !)*
> ================================================================
> All the above is also explained ont his post and of course in the official guide


^This. The PWM splitter i got was DOA so i chucked it and connected it like this
b - CPU fan header
a1 & a2 - CHASSIS_FAN Headers on my motherboard
d - Fan control PWM header from my CM Storm Stryker Case and set it to 100%. If you don't the led on the waterblock flickers which can be a bit distracting.
c - One of the free SATA Power ports in my case.

After doing this I realized that this was actually a much better arrangement because it allows me to control all components of a H 220x separately.
I tried to use speedfan but Mobo wouldnt play nice with it and I ended up using ASUS AI suite 3.


----------



## Dry Bonez

This is why i love my H220X!! ugh,so freaking sexy man. Summer is here and let me tell you,my room temp gets EXTREMELY boiling hott and this thing STILL manages to keep it cool to a level that i am amazed. Anybody reading this is considering getting one,i say get it. Although i did notice these newer models have different tubing texture. I got mine when they first came out and i have a glossy looking tube. Is there something wrong with my tubing?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 
> 
> This is why i love my H220X!! ugh,so freaking sexy man. Summer is here and let me tell you,my room temp gets EXTREMELY boiling hott and this thing STILL manages to keep it cool to a level that i am amazed. Anybody reading this is considering getting one,i say get it. Although i did notice these newer models have different tubing texture. I got mine when they first came out and i have a glossy looking tube. Is there something wrong with my tubing?


Swiftech changed the tubing over to rubber as a preventative measure. Since the units are warrantied for three years without maintenance, this lessens the possibility of plasticizer leeching during this longer than normal lengths between maintenance.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech changed the tubing over to rubber as a preventative measure. Since the units are warrantied for three years without maintenance, this lessens the possibility of plasticizer leeching during this longer than normal lengths between maintenance.


Does the tubing change apply to CM glacer 240 *V2*?


----------



## bootleg4bandit

6/11/15

Swiftech's h220x are available on their site (for the moment)...seems like they sell out quite quickly.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kurei*
> 
> ^This. The PWM splitter i got was DOA so i chucked it and connected it like this
> b - CPU fan header
> a1 & a2 - CHASSIS_FAN Headers on my motherboard
> d - Fan control PWM header from my CM Storm Stryker Case and set it to 100%. If you don't the led on the waterblock flickers which can be a bit distracting.
> c - One of the free SATA Power ports in my case.
> 
> After doing this I realized that this was actually a much better arrangement because it allows me to control all components of a H 220x separately.
> I tried to use speedfan but Mobo wouldnt play nice with it and I ended up using ASUS AI suite 3.


I'm not using the PWM splitter because that adds wires in my small case.
The provided wires have the perfect length for my setup.


----------



## SCBuilder

My H240-X is looking good in its new home.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SCBuilder*
> 
> My H240-X is looking good in its new home.


I'd like to see more pictures of this. It looks great!


----------



## SCBuilder

I've got a build going in the Intel area. Thanks!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1556940/build-log-thermaltake-core-v21-water-air-cooled


----------



## yorfi86

Hi, im interested in the H240X, anyone knows if i can fits in a Nzxt s340. Thanks


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yorfi86*
> 
> Hi, im interested in the H240X, anyone knows if i can fits in a Nzxt s340. Thanks


It looks like it should fit in the front. You will need to purchase some 3/8 by 5/8 tubing though because the tubing on this kit won't be long enough to reach your CPU with the radiator mounted in the front of the case.


----------



## cravinmild

I got my H320 installed over the last few days. It took more time than I had expected but it looks good imo and im pretty happy with it. Somewhere along the Re&Re I lost the ability to control fan speed with one of my controllers. Everything spins but only at full speed, not taking it apart to fix it and its not controlling the H320 rad fans. I will buy another fan controller and just stuff it in the front of my case. The H320 rad took a hodgepodge of fans. Few yates, few corsair, one of the stock H320 fans which actually worked.


Temps are good, not a gigantic leap from my H110 but I hope the H320 shines at the higher voltages. I could see 80c on my H110 while benchmarking at 5.1ghz on the i7 2700K. I ran Valley last night for a quick test (stock cpu-lost my OC too) and my temps never exceeded 43c. I will try to put a 4.5-5ghz everyday OC on it. The proc is getting old and I dont mind so much if it were to ..... pass away. H320 rad fans were at 650-720rpm (rpm jumps around a bit on my other fan controller). I plan to keep the fans around 600 rpm until I start the over clock.


Not one peep from this pump. No gargling or rushing water sounds. I tried to set up bios for PWM but IDK if I got it. Google said that if a PWM device was plugged into my cpu header for this motherboard then it would default to PWM control. BIOS and HWmonitor show 1756rpm on the pump. Seems to be working....

This part was tricky. I had put the titan away for about a year. It was in pieces in my sock drawer







I have been doing this on my gpus for several years now with great success. Now that I have an extra CLC I figured it was time to blow the dust of this old dog and get it back into the pc. This time around it was a tad more tricky but after a half hour I was all done and installing the card. I was a tad afraid - the PC was started for the first time with both the H320 and the H110 modded to my gpu without testing each one individually. I was surprised both worked perfectly right away.

Stock gpu clocks saw my temps once reach 43c but it held at 40c from most the valley run. Two stock corsair 140mm fans included with the H110 at full speed (stupid fan controller)

No real build log







but here are a few quicky snaps I took of the finished job. Hope you like it


----------



## yorfi86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It looks like it should fit in the front. You will need to purchase some 3/8 by 5/8 tubing though because the tubing on this kit won't be long enough to reach your CPU with the radiator mounted in the front of the case.


thanks


----------



## Miss Roxy

I received my H240x today ( yay for living in socal ) and I noticed that there's a bunch of brown particles in the coolant. What is that thing? @[email protected]


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> I received my H240x today ( yay for living in socal ) and I noticed that there's a bunch of brown particles in the coolant. What is that thing? @[email protected]


Dye from the coolant has settled, Bryan instructed another user to "Please try starting up the pump to see if these small particles dissipate and dissolve back into the coolant."


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Dye from the coolant has settled, Bryan instructed another user to "Please try starting up the pump to see if these small particles dissipate and dissolve back into the coolant."


Oh I'll be switching out the coolant to something else since I'm going to be using a clear tubing... so I was just curious.

... But wait, there's dye in the coolant? It looks clear. @[email protected]


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Oh I'll be switching out the coolant to something else since I'm going to be using a clear tubing... so I was just curious.
> 
> ... But wait, there's dye in the coolant? It looks clear. @[email protected]


I thought it was clear but perhaps if poured out theres a bluish tint to it? I haven't drained mine yet..need to save a bit to order fittings/tubing/etc.

Check this post out or just peruse the other posts from the Swiftech forum to see similar posts regarding the brown stuff.

http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3196&sid=a5506d6a954943c14a88fa0370f1d273

Thats where I found the info I mentioned.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I thought it was clear but perhaps if poured out theres a bluish tint to it? I haven't drained mine yet..need to save a bit to order fittings/tubing/etc.
> 
> Check this post out or just peruse the other posts from the Swiftech forum to see similar posts regarding the brown stuff.
> 
> http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3196&sid=a5506d6a954943c14a88fa0370f1d273
> 
> Thats where I found the info I mentioned.


Thanks Dee! =D


----------



## Twitchn

Got all the stuff in for my build and had a little fun


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> Got all the stuff in for my build and had a little fun


That looks amazing! I do need to let you know though that we have experienced some issues with nanofluids being used with our kits. The reason appears to be due to the way the particles will clump together sometimes and then lodge themselves in the pump. If this occurs, we won't be responsible for any resulting damage because it would have been the result of an issue with a third party component. Just a word of caution.


----------



## Twitchn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks amazing! I do need to let you know though that we have experienced some issues with nanofluids being used with our kits. The reason appears to be due to the way the particles will clump together sometimes and then lodge themselves in the pump. If this occurs, we won't be responsible for any resulting damage because it would have been the result of an issue with a third party component. Just a word of caution.


I will watch the system a little closer now that I know this, thanks for the heads up.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitchn*
> 
> I will watch the system a little closer now that I know this, thanks for the heads up.


No problem. Also, this doesn't occur all the time either. We're still trying to identify why it occurs at all, but thus far it appears to be related to clumping of the coolant particles.


----------



## Cyn

Since the hardware rep is active here (which is pretty rad), I thought I'd ask this before I expand it. I have an H220-X, and am about to expand the loop from it's factory loop, to also include a 360 Rad & 1 GPU block. Will the pump on the H220-X be enough to pump the coolant throughout the loop, or should I consider an additional pump like Twitchn did?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyn*
> 
> Since the hardware rep is active here (which is pretty rad), I thought I'd ask this before I expand it. I have an H220-X, and am about to expand the loop from it's factory loop, to also include a 360 Rad & 1 GPU block. Will the pump on the H220-X be enough to pump the coolant throughout the loop, or should I consider an additional pump like Twitchn did?


No, you won't need a second pump to help with this loop configuration. If you need any further assistance don't hesitate to PM me.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Just finished fitting the H240-X into the top of my Bitfenix Prodigy mini-ITX case.
After spending hours bleeding the system and 8 hours leak testing, it seems fine..
I'll leak test for another 38 hours before reconnecting, benching and checking the temps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> Just finished fitting the H240-X into the top of my Bitfenix Prodigy mini-ITX case.
> After spending hours bleeding the system and 8 hours leak testing, it seems fine..
> I'll leak test for another 38 hours before reconnecting, benching and checking the temps.


I'd love to some pictures of it!


----------



## Tikiman

Wanted to say thanks to Bryan @ Swiftech for taking care of my original H-220 pump problem. The new X series pump is a great improvement over the original. My temps are actually lower across the board compared to the original pump when it was new. This level of service is why I will continue to be a Swiftech customer. Thanks again Bryan.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikiman*
> 
> Wanted to say thanks to Bryan @ Swiftech for taking care of my original H-220 pump problem. The new X series pump is a great improvement over the original. My temps are actually lower across the board compared to the original pump when it was new. This level of service is why I will continue to be a Swiftech customer. Thanks again Bryan.


I'm very glad to hear that you're pleased with our support. Please let me know if you need any further assistance.


----------



## jchambers2586

would like to upgrade to a H320. may just buy a 360 rad from swiftech and use my H220 pump.


----------



## sav4

Just wanted to ask before I start installing in my luxe those of you with a h240x what fan setup did u run with the h240x in the top exhausting in pull .
Rear and rear top exh.front 200 intake bottom 2 intake ?


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> Just finished fitting the H240-X into the top of my Bitfenix Prodigy mini-ITX case.
> After spending hours bleeding the system and 8 hours leak testing, it seems fine..
> I'll leak test for another 38 hours before reconnecting, benching and checking the temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd love to some pictures of it!


Yea sure.
I'll post a small gallery along with some before/after temps once I've plugged the PSU back in and tidied up the cables.


----------



## Dudewitbow

switched my gpu(and block ) from a 7970 with heatkiller x3(arguably one of the better universal blocks) to a r9-290 with an aquacomputer block. I love how after a number of times you have to drain and refill the loop, you have a rough idea of when your loop has enough water. I'm surprised I did not need to ever jump start my psu to get my 220 rolling(for reference, it got roughly 52c under a valley run stock)


----------



## sav4

Got my h240x installed must say very easy to mount now to see how much of a difference there is to my aircooler.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> Just finished fitting the H240-X into the top of my Bitfenix Prodigy mini-ITX case.
> After spending hours bleeding the system and 8 hours leak testing, it seems fine..
> I'll leak test for another 38 hours before reconnecting, benching and checking the temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'd love to some pictures of it!


I jumped the gun a little and plugged it all in because 18 hours with no leaks means it should be fine.
It seems to get about 10 degrees Celsius less with anything I throw at it as a worst case scenario, best case scenario it gets about 15-20 degrees Celsius less. It also idles at about 27-30 vs 34-38. That's compared to the stock WF3 cooler and an AIO Cooler Master Seidon 120v which had a noisy pump. Some benchmarks/games don't use the CPU much, that's why.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> 
> Got my h240x installed must say very easy to mount now to see how much of a difference there is to my aircooler.


So what are the differences my friend?


----------



## sav4

@dry bones
Only had a chance to do a quick test . X264 15deg diff tho I think it still has a little air in it as its improving the more I run it and 25deg lower in game .
I'll run some more tests when I get a chance.


----------



## FatBoyTyler

So I just now got my H220 Pump replacement due to my other one having the ground wire burnout. But I am still have hella issues with my new one. The new one is the Sata powered version which is cool and all, but what is the little 2 pin connector for? Also, anything above 1700 (25-30% speed) RPM and it sounds like the darn thing is going to take off and fly away, I'm talking super loud even louder than my 280x at 100% fan speeds. I can also hear what sounds like trickling water at all times. As far as I know there is no trapped air, but I can't be 100% certain. I've had nothing but issues with my H220 pumps for the last 2 years and while Swift Tech takes care of me, its getting super annoying and incredibly frustrating. Any advice on my new problems now?

For the time being its fine, other than the trickling water noise scares the pee out of me, but even at 20% (1500ish RPM) my 3570k at 4.2 rarely reaches 60 degrees under a heavy gaming load.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So I just now got my H220 Pump replacement due to my other one having the ground wire burnout. But I am still have hella issues with my new one. The new one is the Sata powered version which is cool and all, but what is the little 2 pin connector for? Also, anything above 1700 (25-30% speed) RPM and it sounds like the darn thing is going to take off and fly away, I'm talking super loud even louder than my 280x at 100% fan speeds. I can also hear what sounds like trickling water at all times. As far as I know there is no trapped air, but I can't be 100% certain. I've had nothing but issues with my H220 pumps for the last 2 years and while Swift Tech takes care of me, its getting super annoying and incredibly frustrating. Any advice on my new problems now?
> 
> For the time being its fine, other than the trickling water noise scares the pee out of me, but even at 20% (1500ish RPM) my 3570k at 4.2 rarely reaches 60 degrees under a heavy gaming load.


the 2 pin is the led connector i believe(as it was supposed to be for the h220x, but clearly the h220 itself doesn't have leds). as for the trickling, try doing the dish soap technique(add a drop of dish soap into the loop)

on a side note, can confirm a 290/290x can really dump heat into a loop. albeit i live in a relatively hot region and room as of the moment(as we approach summer in the northern hemisphere) water temps got to 75c on cpu and like 65c on gpu with only 360mm of radiator space(on a relatively heavier game). the heat difference between a 7970(what i used before in the same loop, different gpu block) and my current 290 is astounding =X. Do note that my cpu in general is a pretty bad clocker and likes alot of volts. already tuned down the clocks as of hte moment as i dont see a need to have a high CPU performance(especially with win10 looming in, and the cpu overhead for amd gpus on it being relatively better)


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the 2 pin is the led connector i believe(as it was supposed to be for the h220x, but clearly the h220 itself doesn't have leds). as for the trickling, try doing the dish soap technique(add a drop of dish soap into the loop)
> 
> on a side note, can confirm a 290/290x can really dump heat into a loop. albeit i live in a relatively hot region and room as of the moment(as we approach summer in the northern hemisphere) water temps got to 75c on cpu and like 65c on gpu with only 360mm of radiator space(on a relatively heavier game). the heat difference between a 7970(what i used before in the same loop, different gpu block) and my current 290 is astounding =X. Do note that my cpu in general is a pretty bad clocker and likes alot of volts. already tuned down the clocks as of hte moment as i dont see a need to have a high CPU performance(especially with win10 looming in, and the cpu overhead for amd gpus on it being relatively better)


Wow, added a drop and about 10 seconds later the water sound stopped. However, the pump noise is still there.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatBoyTyler*
> 
> So I just now got my H220 Pump replacement due to my other one having the ground wire burnout. But I am still have hella issues with my new one. The new one is the Sata powered version which is cool and all, but what is the little 2 pin connector for? Also, anything above 1700 (25-30% speed) RPM and it sounds like the darn thing is going to take off and fly away, I'm talking super loud even louder than my 280x at 100% fan speeds. I can also hear what sounds like trickling water at all times. As far as I know there is no trapped air, but I can't be 100% certain. I've had nothing but issues with my H220 pumps for the last 2 years and while Swift Tech takes care of me, its getting super annoying and incredibly frustrating. Any advice on my new problems now?
> 
> For the time being its fine, other than the trickling water noise scares the pee out of me, but even at 20% (1500ish RPM) my 3570k at 4.2 rarely reaches 60 degrees under a heavy gaming load.


The connector is to be connected to the CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard.. It will tell you the rpm of the pump plus it's the PWM too. Where you can control the rpm through the bios or the software where you can set the curve for your puml via PWM thru the motherboard


----------



## FatBoyTyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> The connector is to be connected to the CPU_Fan" connector of the motherboard.. It will tell you the rpm of the pump plus it's the PWM too. Where you can control the rpm through the bios or the software where you can set the curve for your puml via PWM thru the motherboard


I was referring the to the 2 Pin connector, not the PWM 4 Pin connector that connects to the PWM Splitter.


----------



## Mega Man

it is for the LED on the 220x i assume your pump has a 4 pin plug? afaik bram has stated the new pumps ( ie that you get back from warranty ) are the new pumps for the 220x


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is for the LED on the 220x i assume your pump has a 4 pin plug? afaik bram has stated the new pumps ( ie that you get back from warranty ) are the new pumps for the 220x


hey megaman,do you think an h220x or 240x will fit in a NZXT switch 810?


----------



## Mega Man

i dunno sorry no experience with nzxt cases. i know their rep i son OCN though and very friendly but i dont know how active

i only do CL now


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey megaman,do you think an h220x or 240x will fit in a NZXT switch 810?


The switch 810 is larger the h440 and that i can say fits. But hit up the nzxt people for sure. @xD3aDPooLx Could probably answer this.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey megaman,do you think an h220x or 240x will fit in a NZXT switch 810?


I have an 810 and I can confirm that either of these kits will fit without an issue.


----------



## NIK1

I was bleeding my H240x loop last night and a rag got caught in one of my Helix 140mm fans and broke off half of a fan blade.I took off the 2 helix fans and put on 2 Phanteks PH-F140XP pwm fans that run at 1070 rpm.They are very quiet but I think they do not do as well as the Helix fans which ran around 17-1800 rpm.Has anyone tried any other 140mm fans that work as good or better than the Helix 140.I was thinking of trying the EK-Vardar 140mm fans when they come out but who knowes when they will be available,any other suggestions appreciated..


----------



## Strider49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I was bleeding my H240x loop last night and a rag got caught in one of my Helix 140mm fans and broke off half of a fan blade.I took off the 2 helix fans and put on 2 Phanteks PH-F140XP pwm fans that run at 1070 rpm.They are very quiet but I think they do not do as well as the Helix fans which ran around 17-1800 rpm.Has anyone tried any other 140mm fans that work as good or better than the Helix 140.I was thinking of trying the EK-Vardar 140mm fans when they come out but who knowes when they will be available,any other suggestions appreciated..


What about some Noctuas NF-A14 PWM?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I was bleeding my H240x loop last night and a rag got caught in one of my Helix 140mm fans and broke off half of a fan blade.I took off the 2 helix fans and put on 2 Phanteks PH-F140XP pwm fans that run at 1070 rpm.They are very quiet but I think they do not do as well as the Helix fans which ran around 17-1800 rpm.Has anyone tried any other 140mm fans that work as good or better than the Helix 140.I was thinking of trying the EK-Vardar 140mm fans when they come out but who knowes when they will be available,any other suggestions appreciated..


I have used the Phanteks F140MP with good success on radiators. But the Swiftech fans are almost impossible to beat for the money.


----------



## NIK1

What are the rpm's of the Phanteks F140MP and the Noctua NF-A14 .The Phanteks PH-F140XP that I have are around 1070-1080 rpm according to my digital fan controller.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I was bleeding my H240x loop last night and a rag got caught in one of my Helix 140mm fans and broke off half of a fan blade.I took off the 2 helix fans and put on 2 Phanteks PH-F140XP pwm fans that run at 1070 rpm.They are very quiet but I think they do not do as well as the Helix fans which ran around 17-1800 rpm.Has anyone tried any other 140mm fans that work as good or better than the Helix 140.I was thinking of trying the EK-Vardar 140mm fans when they come out but who knowes when they will be available,any other suggestions appreciated..


I'm currently using 2x corsair AF140. SP140 are better for cooling radiatord


----------



## jchambers2586

How many radiators do I need for a 3570K and a 970 SLI setup.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> How many radiators do I need for a 3570K and a 970 SLI setup.


Are you overclocking CPU and gpu ?


----------



## jchambers2586

CPU yes GPU no. I lost the silicon lottery on the GPU don't liked to be overclocked past 50.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> CPU yes GPU no. I lost the silicon lottery on the GPU don't liked to be overclocked past 50.


generally its 1 120 per component and a additional 120 for oc on each component.
I would think 2 240mm rads would do tho if you have room a 240 and a 360 will keep it under control.


----------



## jchambers2586

I have a H220 already And I have a H320 radiator on its way. They are both going in the same case.


----------



## EarlZ

Im starting to notice that the LED on the block is loosing brightness but already expected that after I saw the LED's used good thing it can be easily replaced.


----------



## baconboys

I was just wondering if my mcp 50x can be mounted vertically instead of horizontally, it would be plumbed into a reservoir directly above it, the reason I'm asking is I found a very nice spot for it on the side of my case with a proper sized screw hole and I could make another. I can fit it the usual way but it would be a cleaner build on it's side.


----------



## sdmf74

ahh man my pump died yesterday (MCP50X) I know swiftech is great about handling RMA's but *does anyone know if they
offer advance RMA's?* I really wish they would release a dual pump top for this pump!!! I just about had a heart attack when my fans ramped up and my front base's cpu monitor read 90c and climbing fast.









Probably not gonna be easy draining the loop rads, res etc. without a pump


----------



## jchambers2586

can I take the top off the H220 pump and put it on the MCP50X pump I know it will void the warranty i am just wondering if it will work.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconboys*
> 
> I was just wondering if my mcp 50x can be mounted vertically instead of horizontally, it would be plumbed into a reservoir directly above it, the reason I'm asking is I found a very nice spot for it on the side of my case with a proper sized screw hole and I could make another. I can fit it the usual way but it would be a cleaner build on it's side.


Yes, you can mount the pump vertically. That shouldn't be a problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> ahh man my pump died yesterday (MCP50X) I know swiftech is great about handling RMA's but *does anyone know if they
> offer advance RMA's?* I really wish they would release a dual pump top for this pump!!! I just about had a heart attack when my fans ramped up and my front base's cpu monitor read 90c and climbing fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not gonna be easy draining the loop rads, res etc. without a pump


I already responded to your PM about this. We do offer advanced RMA's. Unfortunately we're out of stock on these pumps right now, so an advanced RMA isn't possible at this time. I'm sorry about that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchambers2586*
> 
> can I take the top off the H220 pump and put it on the MCP50X pump I know it will void the warranty i am just wondering if it will work.


Yes, the MCP50X can be installed on an H220. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

@BramSLI1 thanks for getting the reservoir back in stock so quickly you said a week and a half and it was more like 5 days







hats off you guys are becoming more efficient


----------



## elbeasto

I take it it does.


----------



## sav4

Quick question a sata cable from the psu that has multiple plugs on the same cable is it enough to run the hub and pump on a h240x ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Quick question a sata cable from the psu that has multiple plugs on the same cable is it enough to run the hub and pump on a h240x ?


yes, it would be very inefficient for any PSU maker to only have a single sata connector on a single cable.


----------



## sav4

The reason I asked was I could smell something after installing it and it smelt electrical tho it seems to be coming from one of the fans need to investigate it more it could be just the new part smell to


----------



## mfknjadagr8

To anyone considering the mcp50x and mcp35res...here's what mine looks like put together  the only thing I did encounter we the pin that goes in the bottom of the res and the hoe in the pump to was too short..it would just fall flush with the hole in the pump rather than stick up to stop the res from rotation...but a small piece of aluminum foil did the trick...the screen and foam are a nice edition and the res is made well..it's around a quarter inch thick and the acytel top is well done and the 8 "locking" positions are nice to allow flexibility while reducing the chance for leaks by not letting the res twist or tilt...hopefully tonight or tomorrow I'll install it...dreading draining the loop for the fifth time this year...I'll get more pictures if anyone is interested...for 29.99 it's a steal although it's not large (which is both good or bad depending)it is very solid once mounted...it would be nice if there was a way to move the positioning of the res rotation without uninstalling it but keeping it with less points to fail is a good thing too..


----------



## v1ral

I have a question, I have a hub that has different voltage *12v-5v*, can I use this to power up my pump and use the splitter solely for the fans?

Also is the pump loud at 12v, I know that it's best to run the pump at full, but how about at 7volts?

Thanks for your time guys..

I am finally going to see what this H220X is all about, it's enroute and I'm excited as heck!


----------



## Mega Man

only run it at 12v, it has pwm for a reason


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I have a question, I have a hub that has different voltage *12v-5v*, can I use this to power up my pump and use the splitter solely for the fans?
> 
> Also is the pump loud at 12v, I know that it's best to run the pump at full, but how about at 7volts?
> 
> Thanks for your time guys..
> 
> I am finally going to see what this H220X is all about, it's enroute and I'm excited as heck!


You can't under volt these pumps. It's just not possible. The fan connector coming off of the pump only responds to PWM control. Plugging this into a voltage regulated header will just tell the pump to run at full speed because it's powered through the SATA connector. There isn't a way to regulate these pumps with voltage.


----------



## Kutalion

Hows the European distribution going? Is it stuck on highflow.nl for a while? Their prices are criminal, over 200$ without shipping for 240-x


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Hows the European distribution going? Is it stuck on highflow.nl for a while? Their prices are criminal, over 200$ without shipping for 240-x


Coolerkit has these now as well. It does appear that their pricing though is about the same. We will be adding others though very soon.


----------



## t1337dude

Something is wrong with my H240-X, fan-connection issues with my Noctua fans aside. I'm idling at the desktop and my temperatures are 60C and keep raising. The fans are working, and I think the pump is working...so I can't figure out what's wrong.

EDIT: Left PC off for 10 minutes and all seems fine now. I never experienced anything like this before.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Something is wrong with my H240-X, fan-connection issues with my Noctua fans aside. I'm idling at the desktop and my temperatures are 60C and keep raising. The fans are working, and I think the pump is working...so I can't figure out what's wrong.
> 
> EDIT: Left PC off for 10 minutes and all seems fine now. I never experienced anything like this before.


if you have the older style with the plug in the bottom of the pump..check it for fitment sometimes it comes a little loose and pump will stop but led doesn't go off like a partial connection...you can also use something like hwinfo64 to check pump speed...should be between 1500 and 3000


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Something is wrong with my H240-X, fan-connection issues with my Noctua fans aside. I'm idling at the desktop and my temperatures are 60C and keep raising. The fans are working, and I think the pump is working...so I can't figure out what's wrong.
> 
> EDIT: Left PC off for 10 minutes and all seems fine now. I never experienced anything like this before.


Did you fix your other issue with the fans dieing ?


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Did you fix your other issue with the fans dieing ?


Yes and no - it randomly fixed itself after wiggling the wires. It could easily come back though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you have the older style with the plug in the bottom of the pump..check it for fitment sometimes it comes a little loose and pump will stop but led doesn't go off like a partial connection...you can also use something like hwinfo64 to check pump speed...should be between 1500 and 3000


Thanks - it's really difficult for me to check the connections to the underside of the pump because it's hidden inside my optical-drive bay (not a large case). Maybe a connection with my pump is loose. I can see my pump speed in Speedfan but I wasn't paying attention to that at the time. One thing I remember is turning my fans off, hearing a weird clicking noise inside my case, and then I had difficulty hearing my pump at all. Then I unplugged the PWM for the pump and I could hear it go to max. Then I plugged it back in and I could hear the pump running at a normal speed again.

It was interesting because at one point I turned my fans to 100% (which for these Noctua fans, is 3000 RPM, moving an insane amount of air) and for some reason my temperatures weren't really reducing. I'd see it struggle down to 44C, and then jump up to 63C, down to 45C, then up to 66C, etc. until the temperatures were 70C+. Nothing was going on with my PC either, I was just sitting at the desktop. It made me think that the only possibility was the liquid inside the H240X stopped moving, thus the weird temperatures.

I'm sure it'll be fine, unless a pattern starts to develop.


----------



## JCofer

Add me to the club!


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCofer*
> 
> Add me to the club!


I like those hoses. Where'd you get those?


----------



## JCofer

Thanks! They actually came with the cooler. I was looking at getting aftermarket ones, but after installing it, I thought they looked perfect already!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> I like those hoses. Where'd you get those?


it's the revised version...it includes neoprene hosing and no bleed screw as well as integrated wiring no more pesky plug in the pump


----------



## RedIron

Hey Guys,

After a couple of months with my H240-X I've hit my first bumb in the road. I have a 4790k @ 4.4 Ghz running a matlab simulation for a few days. I've been checking periodically and after coming home tonight after work found my Temps had gone from 40C to 100c!!! I turned it off ASAP, unplugged everything and opened up my case.

Other than the CPU, the only component that was really hot was ONE of the h240-x cables, the one that wraps around to the far side of the pump. (GPUs, ram, ssd, were barely warm).

I pulled out some room fans and pointed them at my case to cool it down. Then upon restart, got a error saying "CPU FAN ERROR" and went straight to bios and wouldn't let me get into windows. I could see the temperatures very quickly rising and am not sure what the issue is.

I saw the post above about something being loose, so I'll take a second look at it. All the fans are actually working on the PC and the h240-x radiator fans are pushing, I can feel air moving above them, so I'm thinking it is an issue with the pump.

Thoughts very welcome.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> After a couple of months with my H240-X I've hit my first bumb in the road. I have a 4790k @ 4.4 Ghz running a matlab simulation for a few days. I've been checking periodically and after coming home tonight after work found my Temps had gone from 40C to 100c!!! I turned it off ASAP, unplugged everything and opened up my case.
> 
> Other than the CPU, the only component that was really hot was ONE of the h240-x cables, the one that wraps around to the far side of the pump. (GPUs, ram, ssd, were barely warm).
> 
> I pulled out some room fans and pointed them at my case to cool it down. Then upon restart, got a error saying "CPU FAN ERROR" and went straight to bios and wouldn't let me get into windows. I could see the temperatures very quickly rising and am not sure what the issue is.
> 
> I saw the post above about something being loose, so I'll take a second look at it. All the fans are actually working on the PC and the h240-x radiator fans are pushing, I can feel air moving above them, so I'm thinking it is an issue with the pump.
> 
> Thoughts very welcome.


It does sound like the pump. Make sure the SATA cable is firmly plugged-in. You might also want to listen carefully and feel the hoses to see if the pump is running.

Alternatively, it could be that the waterblock is not properly seated. You might want to remove the block, clean and re-apply the TIM, and then replace the block with appropriate tension. I typically do this once every six months because the TIM tends to harden and my CPU temperature starts to rise by a few degrees.

For the temperatures you're talking about, either the block is not making full contact with the CPU, or the pump is dead or unpowered.


----------



## RedIron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> It does sound like the pump. Make sure the SATA cable is firmly plugged-in. You might also want to listen carefully and feel the hoses to see if the pump is running.
> 
> Alternatively, it could be that the waterblock is not properly seated. You might want to remove the block, clean and re-apply the TIM, and then replace the block with appropriate tension. I typically do this once every six months because the TIM tends to harden and my CPU temperature starts to rise by a few degrees.
> 
> For the temperatures you're talking about, either the block is not making full contact with the CPU, or the pump is dead or unpowered.


Thanks for the information - I removed the waterblock, re-applied the TIM... No changes. Pump seems dead, and all of the power cables are firmly in place. It seems I'm going to be making a warrantly call in the morning.


----------



## Miss Roxy

So I originally had corsair h100i gtx in my system and installing that particular AIO was a breeze...

But...

I don't know if I'm an idiot cause' installing swiftech h240x was hard as hell!

My troubles with h240x:

1. Installing the radiator was a *****. It was hard to line up the screw while holding onto the radiator and fans.

2. Mounting the waterblock was the worst. I attempted 4 times and did NOT succeed. The backplate kept falling off regardless whether or not I used the sticky pads.

If only I can return it... but unfortunately, I already replaced the original coolant and tubing to clear.

I guess the money I spent on 240x went to waste due to my incompetence...


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> So I originally had corsair h100i gtx in my system and installing that particular AIO was a breeze...
> 
> But...
> 
> I don't know if I'm an idiot cause' installing swiftech h240x was hard as hell!
> 
> My troubles with h240x:
> 
> 1. Installing the radiator was a *****. It was hard to line up the screw while holding onto the radiator and fans.
> 
> 2. Mounting the waterblock was the worst. I attempted 4 times and did NOT succeed. The backplate kept falling off regardless whether or not I used the sticky pads.
> 
> If only I can return it... but unfortunately, I already replaced the original coolant and tubing to clear.
> 
> I guess the money I spent on 240x went to waste due to my incompetence...


I'I layed my case on its side and held the block with one hand and the bracket with the other, you can also use a cushion to hold the backplate.
As for fans and rad do one fan at a time but put the screws in the fan prior so they locate on the rad.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Anything soft and static fee will work well...just press it against the backplate and lay the case down...then you don't need six hands just 4 lol...easiest way I've found to mount the h2xx is to purchase 8 more short screws for the fans...screw the fans to the unit then it's less hassle..also have someone hold it in place while you screw it in...I still install it with the long screws but it is a b.... Every time...


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it's the revised version...it includes neoprene hosing and no bleed screw as well as integrated wiring no more pesky plug in the pump


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCofer*
> 
> Thanks! They actually came with the cooler. I was looking at getting aftermarket ones, but after installing it, I thought they looked perfect already!


Is that an ROG badge on the cpu block?


----------



## v1ral

Thanks for the info.
I just installed my new H220x, went without a hitch however.
While plugging in the pump's SATA power I noticed the "L" part of the connector plastic was cracked, it shocked me more than anything. I don't know if I should RMA the thing or what ever but it's working as it should. Also, I hate to be ranting about this thing, warranty sticker out of the box has come loose on one end and looks like someone tried to peel the other end off, shocked me as well.
Is the Res suppose to cloudy/glittery out of the box?
Pulling the cooler out of the box and remember reading about how dirty things can be with first opening the box, I had that same experience with mine, which is weird, seems like it has been sitting in a warehouse for months with it out in the open.

But alas, the cooler works and surprisingly the fans are quiet as heck, I am satisfied with it, minus those qualms.

I expect to expand it in the near future.

I'll try and take a few pictures later of it installed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> So I originally had corsair h100i gtx in my system and installing that particular AIO was a breeze...
> 
> But...
> 
> I don't know if I'm an idiot cause' installing swiftech h240x was hard as hell!
> 
> My troubles with h240x:
> 
> 1. Installing the radiator was a *****. It was hard to line up the screw while holding onto the radiator and fans.
> 
> 2. Mounting the waterblock was the worst. I attempted 4 times and did NOT succeed. The backplate kept falling off regardless whether or not I used the sticky pads.
> 
> If only I can return it... but unfortunately, I already replaced the original coolant and tubing to clear.
> 
> I guess the money I spent on 240x went to waste due to my incompetence...


it is acctually easy when you learn i can do it in about 2 min

use a pillow or folded towel lay the mobo / case on the pillow to hold the backplate.

install as normal.

done


----------



## cravinmild

I layed the retaining plate on the back of the mobo then used some painters tape to hold it firmly. I screwed in the screws from the front side then installed the mobo. Layed the case on its back, removed the preinstalled screws id placed attached the pump then tightened it all up. I honestly could have left the original H110 back retention bracket on as its almost identical in looks but completely identical for hole spaces and screw threads.


----------



## Snyderman34

I'm having a noise coming from my H220 (not expanded). It almost sounds like a vibration coming from the pump, but trying to brace it doesn't help. I haven't unmounted it in over a year (screws still seem snug), and the noise just started a couple days ago. Any ideas?


----------



## Mnemo05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I'm having a noise coming from my H220 (not expanded). It almost sounds like a vibration coming from the pump, but trying to brace it doesn't help. I haven't unmounted it in over a year (screws still seem snug), and the noise just started a couple days ago. Any ideas?


The noise most likely is from the impeller, what revision of H220 are you using?

BTW, I have set my H220-X pump RPM to 1700RPM, if set anything over 2000RPM I start hearing the pump and it is annoying me(PC right side of my desk)

I guess my question is, given that my temps are perfectly acceptable(maxes out at around 50c while gaming) is running the pump at such speed be harmful in the long run?

Thanks!


----------



## Snyderman34

Swiftech sent me the newer impeller a while back.

You made me think of something though. I reinstalled Speedfan to look at the RPM, and the RPM is stuck at 3000. I can set it to software control (using Speedfan 4.51) and the fans will go up and down, but it still reads 3000 RPM. Could this be just a bug in Speedfan, or maybe my pump's running at 3000RPM and that's what is making the noise?


----------



## Mnemo05

I cant control mine via the PWM of my board, it just runs 3000RPM if I set it to default

I had to set my CPU fan headers to silent mode to get 1700RPM


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> I cant control mine via the PWM of my board, it just runs 3000RPM if I set it to default
> 
> I had to set my CPU fan headers to silent mode to get 1700RPM


I used a custom profile to sort mine out wouldn't work on the preset ones


----------



## Mnemo05

^finally found a custom setting on my uefi that suits my preferred sound profile for the pump, had to set my CPU fan header to 30% to achieve 1800RPM on the pump, although the LED on the block wont light up


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> ^finally found a custom setting on my uefi that suits my preferred sound profile for the pump, had to set my CPU fan header to 30% to achieve 1800RPM on the pump, although the LED on the block wont light up


It's not supposed to be on the same header as the splitter anyway that causes it to flash...unless you run it at 100%...


----------



## Snyderman34

I also just noticed that Speedfan 4.51 does not have the option for manual for PWN, just software controlled. The older versions of Speedfan had manual. Gonna try one of those and see if it lets me turn the pump down.


----------



## salokin

So what's the consensus for the pump / 2 fans being on the same splitter plugged into the CPU_FAN 4pin on the motherboard? The pump RPM is reported and I can't control the fans indepedent of the pump. Is that optimal? Or would I get better /similar performance (with better acoustics) If i ran the 2 fans on a separate PWM mobo header from the pump? Is it important for all to be at the same voltage, higher volt fan / lower volt pump, or higher volt pump / lower volt fan?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salokin*
> 
> So what's the consensus for the pump / 2 fans being on the same splitter plugged into the CPU_FAN 4pin on the motherboard? The pump RPM is reported and I can't control the fans indepedent of the pump. Is that optimal? Or would I get better /similar performance (with better acoustics) If i ran the 2 fans on a separate PWM mobo header from the pump? Is it important for all to be at the same voltage, higher volt fan / lower volt pump, or higher volt pump / lower volt fan?


1, Swiftech designed these units with a curve such that if the pump is working correctly, on average, the fans will always be louder than the pump. So you can if you want control the pwm fans separately, but its original design put the pwm levels relative to each other.

2. Why mention voltage? all pwm objects should always be running on 12v in this case. PWM != Voltage control, pwm controls by signal, voltage controls by changing the power delivery.


----------



## salokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 1, Swiftech designed these units with a curve such that if the pump is working correctly, on average, the fans will always be louder than the pump. So you can if you want control the pwm fans separately, but its original design put the pwm levels relative to each other.
> 
> 2. Why mention voltage? all pwm objects should always be running on 12v in this case. PWM != Voltage control, pwm controls by signal, voltage controls by changing the power delivery.


Yeah I misused the term voltage in this context. What I meant to say was fan RPM%, since the fan and motors operate at different RPM ranges. My original question was basically asking if fan/motor RPM should increase together when CPU load occurs (so all connected to same splitter), or if similar/better performance could be achieved (with better/similar acoustics) with, say, the motor set at a constant RPM value and the fans RPM increased/decreased (or vice versa).

But based on your first bullet, it seems like it's best to just leave them at low rpms under no load and then ramping up together under load?


----------



## elbeasto

Is it okay to plug the fans and pump into directly into the headers on the motherboard with the 240-X?

The provided fan splitter only allows monitoring of one header.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Is it okay to plug the puns and pump into directly into the headers on the motherboard with the 240-X?
> 
> The provided fan splitter only allows monitoring of one header.


for the pump, most likely yes because sata powers it and if you plugged it into a voltage modulated pin, itd just run at full speed 24/7

for the fans, only plug them into PWM capable headers. for most motherboards, the CPU FAN is the only pwm capable header, but there are a few exceptions for different boards.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> for the pump, most likely yes because sata powers it and if you plugged it into a voltage modulated pin, itd just run at full speed 24/7
> 
> for the fans, only plug them into PWM capable headers. for most motherboards, the CPU FAN is the only pwm capable header, but there are a few exceptions for different boards.


Thanks

& yeah I should have mentioned that I have a board with PWM headers.

But with the supplied PWM header board the idea is to run the pump and fans all @ 'PWM speeds' no? i.e. variable speeds based on temps.
Just so I know that I have to set them all to PWM in BIOS if going directly into the motherboard.


----------



## jumpman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> I'm having a noise coming from my H220 (not expanded). It almost sounds like a vibration coming from the pump, but trying to brace it doesn't help. I haven't unmounted it in over a year (screws still seem snug), and the noise just started a couple days ago. Any ideas?


I have the same problem the pump is making a buzzing noise and vibrating quite loudly especially at load. It's like a mini lawnmower.

I sent swiftech an email last thursday early morning and I still haven't gotten any response. How long does swiftech support usually take to respond? I would assume 48 hours to be the max, but I can never get a response within that time frame.


----------



## elbeasto

I registered at the Swiftech forum yesterday and still haven't got the verification email.

But does the 4 pin from the splitter have to go into a PWM header or does it require DC? I can set every header on my board to either PWM or DC.


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> & yeah I should have mentioned that I have a board with PWM headers.
> 
> But with the supplied PWM header board the idea is to run the pump and fans all @ 'PWM speeds' no? i.e. variable speeds based on temps.
> Just so I know that I have to set them all to PWM in BIOS if going directly into the motherboard.


The idea is to run the pump and fans all @ PWN speeds, yes. The pump was designed to be nearly inaudible in relation to the fans when they all running in relation to the CPU Fan Header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> I registered at the Swiftech forum yesterday and still haven't got the verification email.
> 
> But does the 4 pin from the splitter have to go into a PWM header or does it require DC? I can set every header on my board to either PWM or DC.


AFAIK, the recommendation for the 4 pin splitter is to be plugged into the PWM header for control purposes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> I have the same problem the pump is making a buzzing noise and vibrating quite loudly especially at load. It's like a mini lawnmower.
> 
> I sent swiftech an email last thursday early morning and I still haven't gotten any response. How long does swiftech support usually take to respond? I would assume 48 hours to be the max, but I can never get a response within that time frame.


I am not sure of their SLA but the couple times I have contacted Swiftech yielded me a result in under 48 hours. Posts in this thread worked just as well. I believe you should be hearing from Bram by tomorrow at the latest. Their level of support is one of the reasons I was comfortable in purchasing the H220. Have you tried the method in the first post for removing bubbles? That is a common cause of noise.

Directions for removing an air bubble -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMPORTANT SERVICE ANOUNCEMENT

"Here at Swiftech what we've been able to determine is that most of the noise that comes from the pump is due to an air bubble getting trapped in it. Here are the steps to remove this air bubble.

First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You'll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You'll also want your pump running while you're doing this.

Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.

If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don't end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.

These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour or more before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water."


----------



## Liranan

Hi all. Finally I've replaced my H70 with an H220-X and after installing it I've found that the thing runs really, really hot.

The CPU at stock 3.5GHz goes up to 63C, the pipes are hot, the radiator is hot and it's just not as good as I thought it would be.

I did extensive research before I bought this cooler but now I'm wondering whether I made the right choice because it seems to be another disappointment.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on?


----------



## diggiddi

Will the h220x fit in the front drive bays of the Silverstone Raven RV03


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Hi all. Finally I've replaced my H70 with an H220-X and after installing it I've found that the thing runs really, really hot.
> 
> The CPU at stock 3.5GHz goes up to 63C, the pipes are hot, the radiator is hot and it's just not as good as I thought it would be.
> 
> I did extensive research before I bought this cooler but now I'm wondering whether I made the right choice because it seems to be another disappointment.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what's going on?


Where'd u purchase it from?


----------



## cravinmild

That H70 is a pretty beast aio. Have the original H70 which performed almost a good as my H100/H110. Still I would have thought you would get better performance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Hi all. Finally I've replaced my H70 with an H220-X and after installing it I've found that the thing runs really, really hot.
> 
> The CPU at stock 3.5GHz goes up to 63C, the pipes are hot, the radiator is hot and it's just not as good as I thought it would be.
> 
> I did extensive research before I bought this cooler but now I'm wondering whether I made the right choice because it seems to be another disappointment.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what's going on?


your trying to compare silent fans against jet engines,

swap the stock 220x fans to the h70 fans and see what happens then


----------



## elbeasto

Just installed the H240-X and I can't believe how loud this thing is!!!

Loud high pitched noise, loud rattling/buzzing/vibration. All coming from the pump.

I've tried tilting the case and pinching the hoses but nothing works.
I'm going to have to take it out the noise is driving me nuts.

HWInfo reports the pump running at 1750 which seems too high IMO for PWM and 27c.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your trying to compare silent fans against jet engines,
> 
> swap the stock 220x fans to the h70 fans and see what happens then


So H220x fans are no bueno?


----------



## Mega Man

that is not what i said

i said the corsairs are louder and run much higher speed and static pressure
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Just installed the H240-X and I can't believe how loud this thing is!!!
> 
> Loud high pitched noise, loud rattling/buzzing/vibration. All coming from the pump.
> 
> I've tried tilting the case and pinching the hoses but nothing works.
> I'm going to have to take it out the noise is driving me nuts.
> 
> HWInfo reports the pump running at 1750 which seems too high IMO for PWM and 27c.


you say pwm but you dont say how much pwm signal


----------



## Liranan

After posting for help I realised what the problem is. At 4GHz with 1.425 the cores don't go over 55C, it's the socket that gets so hot. I've placed a 6CM fan over the north bridge and it's 8C cooler so now I need to put another fan over the VRM's to cool them down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> That H70 is a pretty beast aio. Have the original H70 which performed almost a good as my H100/H110. Still I would have thought you would get better performance.


There is no way you can compare the H220-X with the H70. The H70 is a single 12CM 3.5CM thick aluminium radiator that comes with jet engine fans. The pump is weak and the cold plate is awful. The H220-X cools considerably better while being quiet, I can't hear the fans at all.

But IBT is still failing even at stock but I blame IBT as some versions don't even run.

Edit: second fan on the VRM's has stabilised socket temperature at 61. Running Cinebench at 4.4 the cores go up to 65. I have a very high leak chip so it needs a lot of voltage to hit higher speed but that is just my eternal luck. Summer is super hot here and the AC needs freon adding to it because it's not efficient any longer so ambient temperatures are pretty high so I understand why the cores go so high.

The H70 would easily hit over 75 at these speeds even in Winter, which is why it desperately needed to be replaced.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is not what i said
> 
> i said the corsairs are louder and run much higher speed and static pressure
> you say pwm but you dont say how much pwm signal


I already put the Corsair H110 back in, I couldn't stand the noise from the Swiftech.
Corsair isn't great but it's WAY WAY quieter than the Swiftech.

I'm either going to have to isntall a real loop, an air cooler or put up with the Corsair.
If Swiftech send me a replacement I'll try it outside the case before installing.

So disappointed...


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> I already put the Corsair H110 back in, I couldn't stand the noise from the Swiftech.
> Corsair isn't great but it's WAY WAY quieter than the Swiftech.
> 
> I'm either going to have to isntall a real loop, an air cooler or put up with the Corsair.
> If Swiftech send me a replacement I'll try it outside the case before installing.
> 
> So disappointed...


That needs to be RMA'd. Regardless of the brand noise like that sounds like a defective pump.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> That needs to be RMA'd. Regardless of the brand noise like that sounds like a defective pump.


My thoughts as well.
I've seen videos on youtube and they seem very quiet, which is why I bought one.

Just bad luck I guess.

My CPU temps were quite low for the brief time I had it installed so yeah, I'd love to be able to run on of these things.


----------



## Chipicao

I think I may have an issue with my H220-X.
My PC started making a strange vibration noise which I managed to isolate to the H220-X pump by turning off everything else.

My first thought was maybe some air got stuck in it. I started rotating the system around in order to get all the air towards the reservoir, but the noise wouldn't go away.

After some more thinking I decided to check if all the screws were tightened properly. 3 of the screws were ok-ish, though I was able to tighten them for about half a turn without too much force.
The forth screw however was turning freely, as if it had no thread to grip on to.


I should mention I was very careful, gently turning each screw so I wouldn't break anything.

After a few turns the noise seemed to stop, but it still feels like the thread is worn out. It feels like one of those broken threads than you can still get a screw in but which is sure to give out if you pull on it.
So now I fear that after a while the screw will come loose and the noise will come back, or even worse.

Has anyone else experienced this? I assume it's not normal...

I'm thinking about replacing the pump, but I'm not sure if it will fix it.
Is that screw part of the pump assembly, or is it what's holding the pump to the rad/reservoir?

RMA-ing this unit is probably not an option for me, because I ordered it from Netherlands and shipping it back costs a lot.


----------



## Liranan

After a little tinkering I've got my 8320 at 4.5 with 1.43V and the temperature was at 65C, socket 61. I am so really pleased.

Really hope the pump doesn't start causing problems because I am really ecstatic right now. Now I need a new SSD and video card and I'll be set for another few years.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is not what i said
> 
> i said the corsairs are louder and run much higher speed and static pressure
> you say pwm but you dont say how much pwm signal


Judging from speed about 55%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> After a little tinkering I've got my 8320 at 4.5 with 1.43V and the temperature was at 65C, socket 61. I am so really pleased.
> 
> Really hope the pump doesn't start causing problems because I am really ecstatic right now. Now I need a new SSD and video card and I'll be set for another few years.


shouldn't be that high unless your ambient is very high..with ambient of 30c mine was hitting 60c at 4.6..1.48v


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Judging from speed about 55%
> shouldn't be that high unless your ambient is very high..with ambient of 30c mine was hitting 60c at 4.6..1.48v


My ambient temperature is very high. I won't dare to guess what my room is without air conditioning on as it's 35-41 outside. If I say I sweat buckets I'm lying.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> My ambient temperature is very high. I won't dare to guess what my room is without air conditioning on as it's 35-41 outside. If I say I sweat buckets I'm lying.


damn that's like 105f...nevermind carry on lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Just installed the H240-X and I can't believe how loud this thing is!!!
> 
> Loud high pitched noise, loud rattling/buzzing/vibration. All coming from the pump.
> 
> I've tried tilting the case and pinching the hoses but nothing works.
> I'm going to have to take it out the noise is driving me nuts.
> 
> HWInfo reports the pump running at 1750 which seems too high IMO for PWM and 27c.


Send me a PM about this and please tell me where you purchased this kit from.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipicao*
> 
> I think I may have an issue with my H220-X.
> My PC started making a strange vibration noise which I managed to isolate to the H220-X pump by turning off everything else.
> 
> My first thought was maybe some air got stuck in it. I started rotating the system around in order to get all the air towards the reservoir, but the noise wouldn't go away.
> 
> After some more thinking I decided to check if all the screws were tightened properly. 3 of the screws were ok-ish, though I was able to tighten them for about half a turn without too much force.
> The forth screw however was turning freely, as if it had no thread to grip on to.
> 
> 
> I should mention I was very careful, gently turning each screw so I wouldn't break anything.
> 
> After a few turns the noise seemed to stop, but it still feels like the thread is worn out. It feels like one of those broken threads than you can still get a screw in but which is sure to give out if you pull on it.
> So now I fear that after a while the screw will come loose and the noise will come back, or even worse.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? I assume it's not normal...
> 
> I'm thinking about replacing the pump, but I'm not sure if it will fix it.
> Is that screw part of the pump assembly, or is it what's holding the pump to the rad/reservoir?
> 
> RMA-ing this unit is probably not an option for me, because I ordered it from Netherlands and shipping it back costs a lot.


Replacing the pump isn't going to resolve this issue. The pump screws into the PPHR and that's what has apparently been damaged somehow. The PPHR (reservoir and pump housing) will need to be replaced in order to resolve this issue and that's not something that can be done by the end user. You will have to contact the reseller in the Netherlands to get this kit replaced.


----------



## duckyboy

Hi guys, new to pc building, well not that new,. This is my second build and I was wondering how i would mount the h220x onto a 2011v3 socket. So i replaced the screws but how far do i screw down the watercooler ? do I screw it until it stops ? I know i should go in a x pattern like 20% down then move on until i do all then 30%, then finish it off ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Hi guys, new to pc building, well not that new,. This is my second build and I was wondering how i would mount the h220x onto a 2011v3 socket. So i replaced the screws but how far do i screw down the watercooler ? do I screw it until it stops ? I know i should go in a x pattern like 20% down then move on until i do all then 30%, then finish it off ?


You want to screw it down until it either bottoms out or you can't screw it down any further. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## jumpman

How long do I have to wait for swiftech support to reply? It's been almost a week and nothing. Last time I had an issue, it took maybe 2-4 days between each reply, but not a week. It's getting worse and worse.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> How long do I have to wait for swiftech support to reply? It's been almost a week and nothing. Last time I had an issue, it took maybe 2-4 days between each reply, but not a week. It's getting worse and worse.


I'm sorry to hear about this. Please PM me about you issue so that I can assist you. We have been having issues with our Outlook exchange server lately and that could be the reason for the delay.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Hey guys,

I recently bought Swiftech H320 for the new rig i'm building and I need some help regarding this cooler. My processor is i7 5820K and i plan to overclock it to 4-4.5 GHz, which is why ended up buying NZXT Phantom 820 computer case and Swiftech H320, which people say will give good performance and will fit in this case without any problems.

Now I live in India and here getting hands on this is rather easy in comparison to some of my friends in US who say it's hard to find due to some restrictions or something. Anyways, my problem is that the thermal compound called Tim Mate-2 that comes by default has been either stolen or missing from the total list of contents and seller has also completely ignored me. I'm actually pretty let down by this behaviour because according to the instruction manual Tim Mate-2 gives the best performance:

Screwed.









So, it looks like I have no option but to buy some other aftermarket thermal compound and my main problem is that I already have some limited options since they're not easy to find here in my country.

List of thermal compounds that are available for me are:
-Arctic Silver 5
-Cooler Master IC essential E1
-Cooler Master IC essential E2
-Cooler Master IC Value V1 (Dirt cheap so most likely it's crap)
-Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond
-Arctic MX-4
-Deep Cool Z5
-Arctic Silver Ceramique 2

If all of them are crap then I can also buy something much better from newegg and have it shipped in my country from US and take a hit on my wallet further. Because I spend a good amount on computer chassis and CPU cooler, so I will not compromise on another crucial factor that affects the computer temps.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Kutalion

Arctic MX-4 is one of the best. I highly doubt Tim mate 2 is better.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Arctic MX-4 is one of the best. I highly doubt Tim mate 2 is better.


mx4 is good...I like the Antec diamond 7 as well but some don't...as5 is proven but it takes cure time and imo mx4 is the best choice of those you listed...easy to work with and performs well


----------



## Agnivanshi

Cheers for the reply man. But MX-4 is ridiculously priced in my country. What about Tuniq TX-2 or TX-4? They are in my budget.


----------



## zila

Tim Mate 2 is excellent and I highly recommend it but you can use any of the top of the line pastes, there is only a degree or two difference between them.


----------



## ban25

The TIM-Mate I originally applied actually dried up after a few months and needed to be replaced, so I applied IC Diamond 24 instead. It's been running well since then. Whatever you buy, it's probably a good idea to clean the block and reapply every 6 months or so.


----------



## zila

ban25 how long did you have the Tim Mate 2 on there? I'm in the process of cleaning my rig right now. I pulled my H220 off last night for the first time in about a year. The Tim Mate 2 is still creamy and had an excellent contact patch. Works great for me.

I'm sorry that yours didn't work out for you.


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> ban25 how long did you have the Tim Mate 2 on there? I'm in the process of cleaning my rig right now. I pulled my H220 off last night for the first time in about a year. The Tim Mate 2 is still creamy and had an excellent contact patch. Works great for me.
> 
> I'm sorry that yours didn't work out for you.


I got my H-240X in December and cleaned, re-applied, and re-seated the block in May, so ~5 months. After that, I saw a 5C drop in package temperature under load (PrimeGrid). I did some research at the time and found positive reviews for IC Diamond 24. I was also looking for something that wouldn't tarnish the block's finish, which can be the case for some of the higher performance metallic compounds.


----------



## zila

Thanks for the info. Good to know.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> I got my H-240X in December and cleaned, re-applied, and re-seated the block in May, so ~5 months. After that, I saw a 5C drop in package temperature under load (PrimeGrid). I did some research at the time and found positive reviews for IC Diamond 24. I was also looking for something that wouldn't tarnish the block's finish, which can be the case for some of the higher performance metallic compounds.


Im not concerned with the bottom so long as the performance is there


----------



## sav4

Hey guy I finally pulled the protective strip off my h240x reservoir and noticed aline going across the window like a moulding mark anyone else seen this ?
I'll post a pic when I get home


----------



## Agnivanshi

Last night I shot an email to the Swiftech distributors in India:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *me*
> Hi,
> 
> I bought a CPU cooler called Swiftech H320 from MD computers and in the package the thermal compound called Tim-mate 2 was missing or stolen as the box wasn't sealed.
> 
> I see that you guys are the Swiftech representatives in India, so I was wondering if you can help me find a decent thermal compound like Cooler Master Extreme Fusion X1 or Arctic MX4 so that i can use it instead.
> 
> I'm willing to pay for them btw. I'm not interested in Deepcool thermal pastes otherwise I would've bought them from your website.
> 
> Please let me know if you can help me with this.


And I got this email from them just an hour ago:

GREAT!







I didn't want to buy MX-4 for ridiculous 50 dollars.


----------



## Kutalion

50$ what on earth!? Its around 8$ in europe.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> 50$ what on earth!? Its around 8$ in europe.


Yeah talk about being ridiculous. Result of excessive custom duties and greedy sellers when importing items. Also it could be that the quantity may be more than normal, didn't read it carefully.

Anyways, I'm very happy to report that Swiftech representative here in India have dispatched a free tim-mate 2 thermal compound without asking for any additional charges. All i had to do was show my invoice to prove it was a recent purchase and a genuine user. Thanks Swiftech.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> 50$ what on earth!? Its around 8$ in europe.


Not all things are equal to the US/EU in price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> Last night I shot an email to the Swiftech distributors in India:
> And I got this email from them just an hour ago:
> 
> GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't want to buy MX-4 for ridiculous 50 dollars.


There is very little difference between thermal compounds. Even chocolate can serve as compound.


----------



## ZC4065

Guys, I'm looking at one of the blue replacement windows for the H220-X, but I can only find them on the Swiftech page and I live in the UK, so postage would be ridiculous. Is there anywhere I can get one? Thanks


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> There is very little difference between thermal compounds. Even chocolate can serve as compound.


From my personal experience, though I have only used air coolers never CLC until now, under overclock config and when put on load you can see some real difference in compounds. Where we can reduce temps by 10-15ºC.

On stock and normal usage, I agree, there's not that difference to pay more premium on costlier compounds.


----------



## mukumi

After weeks of debating with myself to cool my gtx 780 poseidon, I finally could grab a good deal on the H140-X.

I think i'm finally settled and the order has been placed. I got the full version with the CPU Waterblck. Does the Waterblock use standard fitting ? Can I reuse those on my asus card or should I order new ones? (this will be my first watercooling).


----------



## Hardstylerz

Hey everyone just installed the h240x a few days ago, everything's good gettiing really good temps with OC'ed 4690k. But on startup it makes really loud rattling noises. I've tried shaking radiator and tilting the case. This only occurs during startup. Sorry for the quality was only meant to capture the sound


----------



## Mnemo05

Check Swiftech's reply above..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mukumi*
> 
> After weeks of debating with myself to cool my gtx 780 poseidon, I finally could grab a good deal on the H140-X.
> 
> I think i'm finally settled and the order has been placed. I got the full version with the CPU Waterblck. Does the Waterblock use standard fitting ? Can I reuse those on my asus card or should I order new ones? (this will be my first watercooling).


Personally, I would not reuse the fittings, I would go with new. The tubing on the H140-X is 3/8"x5/8". You will likely get a much cleaner looking install using 90 degree fittings on the GPU.


----------



## bukojuice

After a year..its time to do some Cleaning.. thinking of a new orientation as well


----------



## mukumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally, I would not reuse the fittings, I would go with new. The tubing on the H140-X is 3/8"x5/8". You will likely get a much cleaner looking install using 90 degree fittings on the GPU.


Thanks, i'll order two of those 16/10 g14 90° fittings. Do i need a tube cutter or can I just unattach the feeting ? I wonder if I should also purchase some cooliant or is there a way to proceed carefully so that the one contained can still be used?


----------



## bukojuice

cleaning time..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mukumi*
> 
> After weeks of debating with myself to cool my gtx 780 poseidon, I finally could grab a good deal on the H140-X.
> 
> I think i'm finally settled and the order has been placed. I got the full version with the CPU Waterblck. Does the Waterblock use standard fitting ? Can I reuse those on my asus card or should I order new ones? (this will be my first watercooling).
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I would not reuse the fittings, I would go with new. The tubing on the H140-X is 3/8"x5/8". You will likely get a much cleaner looking install using 90 degree fittings on the GPU.
Click to expand...

fittings are perfectly fine to be reused if you dont like the look then replace them imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mukumi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally, I would not reuse the fittings, I would go with new. The tubing on the H140-X is 3/8"x5/8". You will likely get a much cleaner looking install using 90 degree fittings on the GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, i'll order two of those 16/10 g14 90° fittings. Do i need a tube cutter or can I just unattach the feeting ? I wonder if I should also purchase some cooliant or is there a way to proceed carefully so that the one contained can still be used?
Click to expand...

best tubing cutter i have found is a pvc cutter at home depot

dont get this kind ( i have this exact one for cutting pvc, its awesome for plumbing )
http://www.amazon.com/Rothenberger-ROCUT-52000-Plastic-Shears/dp/B000ZEHK5O

get this one
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23488-Scissor-Style-Plastic-Tubing/dp/B0019MLSLS/ref=lp_1232270011_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1436021280&sr=1-5

again you want the scissor type not the ratcheting type.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukojuice*
> 
> cleaning time..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


sigh i remember being able to clean mine in a couple hours !


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fittings are perfectly fine to be reused if you dont like the look then replace them imo
> best tubing cutter i have found is a pvc cutter at home depot
> 
> dont get this kind ( i have this exact one for cutting pvc, its awesome for plumbing )
> http://www.amazon.com/Rothenberger-ROCUT-52000-Plastic-Shears/dp/B000ZEHK5O
> 
> get this one
> http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23488-Scissor-Style-Plastic-Tubing/dp/B0019MLSLS/ref=lp_1232270011_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1436021280&sr=1-5
> 
> again you want the scissor type not the ratcheting type.
> sigh i remember being able to clean mine in a couple hours !


I used the ratcheting type on my tubing and it's done well but the scissor type would probably work better...

yeah I went from about an hour cleaning to about 3 hours now...not counting refill and rebleeding...speaking of which I need to get my plates made so I can tear down again for the last time for awhile...(maybe)


----------



## VeerK

Hey guys, I just bought an H240-X and was wondering if there was anything critical I should know about it beyond what is covered in the first few posts (1600 pages is too many to peruse through) :/

Planning on using it for my gpu only loop.


----------



## bukojuice

update..trying a new orientation..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> Hey guys, I just bought an H240-X and was wondering if there was anything critical I should know about it beyond what is covered in the first few posts (1600 pages is too many to peruse through) :/
> 
> Planning on using it for my gpu only loop.


learn watercooling basics

leaning toward a h140x/220x for my freenas build


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> From my personal experience, though I have only used air coolers never CLC until now, under overclock config and when put on load you can see some real difference in compounds. Where we can reduce temps by 10-15ºC.
> 
> On stock and normal usage, I agree, there's not that difference to pay more premium on costlier compounds.


I have three different compounds and I don't notice a difference between the three.

Was thinking of using chocolate and toothpaste for the fun of it but I'm lazy to take it all apart, will try them when I clean my PC next time.


----------



## sav4

Anyone come across this on their res window ?


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Anyone come across this on their res window ?


My res looks like this too, always wonder what we can do to clear it up.


----------



## sav4

I'm more referring to the line at the bottom tho the liquid is murky


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking at one of the blue replacement windows for the H220-X, but I can only find them on the Swiftech page and I live in the UK, so postage would be ridiculous. Is there anywhere I can get one? Thanks


I'm sorry about this, but so far these colored windows are only available directly from our online store. We're trying to get these distributed to our international resellers though. It's just going to take time.


----------



## AmishTurtle

When will they be back in stock???
I have been checking back for like 3 weeks and nothing!


----------



## mcnumpty23

hey i have been missing for a while

are the h220-x and h240-x not being sold in the usa anymore?

some one just told me they cant find either to buy in the usa?


----------



## AmishTurtle

I cant find them anywhere, there are some on eBay but they are extremely overpriced at around $200.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> I cant find them anywhere, there are some on eBay but they are extremely overpriced at around $200.


anything from swiftech to say why?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> hey i have been missing for a while
> 
> are the h220-x and h240-x not being sold in the usa anymore?
> 
> some one just told me they cant find either to buy in the usa?


We're still making them and they'll be back in stock in a couple of weeks. We're a small company after all.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're still making them and they'll be back in stock in a couple of weeks. We're a small company after all.


hey thanks bryan

i have been away for a long while

great to see you are still here and giving great fast support as always


----------



## tcrews

PPCS has them in stock


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcrews*
> 
> PPCS has them in stock


hey thanks that was fast as well +1 to you


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're still making them and they'll be back in stock in a couple of weeks. We're a small company after all.


Do you guys have a refill and hard tubing guide?


----------



## AmishTurtle

Thats for preorder...


----------



## tcrews

OK guys PPCS has the H220x in stock the H240X is now on back order sorry.


----------



## AmishTurtle

Bummer


----------



## AmishTurtle

How long do you think it will take until they will be back in-stock I really want one but if its a long time to wait I might go with something else.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> Do you guys have a refill and hard tubing guide?


I can send you a guide on how to refill the kit. Just PM me. We don't currently make hard-line fittings, so I don't have a hard-line tubing guide for you. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## AmishTurtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I can send you a guide on how to refill the kit. Just PM me. We don't currently make hard-line fittings, so I don't have a hard-line tubing guide for you. I'm sorry about that.


When do you think you guys will be back in stock?

Thanks,


----------



## t1337dude

So I'm curious about putting a waterblock on my Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti (when one releases) and integrating it into my H240-X setup. I have a few questions for anyone willing to answer.

1) Should I not bother with water cooling if my card has poor ASIC quality (<70%)? I'm worried the gains would be limited if the ASIC isn't great.

2) Should I buy an additional radiator (120mm) to stick onto the back of my case? I have a mid-tower PC, so my space options are limited. The only other option for a radiator is intake at front-bottom of my case (could possibly fit 140MM).

3) If I were to SLI my 980 Ti's, would it be ideal to have both an additional 120mm radiator in the rear exhaust spot, and a 140mm radiator in the front intake? Would the H240-X pump be able to support this?

4) If it's possible to integrate SLI 980 Ti's into my watercooling setup, would the gains be worthwhile? Or will ithe gains be bottlenecked in some way due to a limitation of the H240-X?

Thanks


----------



## duckyboy

Hii, im in the process of building my new rig now, and I cracked one of those plastic washers, is that okay ? how important are those things ?
is it a standard thing that I can buy at a hardware store?


----------



## RedIron

What's the best thermal paste to use with a H240-X?

I've done a bit of looking, and these two products are looking like some of the better choices based on reviews and Tom's Hardware guide. I'm not sure if there's any topics here where thermal pastes are compared.

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0039RY3MM/?tag=storagerealm02-20&creativeASIN=B0039RY3MM

vs

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002P5W4RU/?tag=storagerealm02-20&creativeASIN=B002P5W4RU


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Hii, im in the process of building my new rig now, and I cracked one of those plastic washers, is that okay ? how important are those things ?
> is it a standard thing that I can buy at a hardware store?


If you're talking about one of the plastic washers that goes on the mounting screws, you should have extras with the other sets of mounting hardware.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> What's the best thermal paste to use with a H240-X?
> 
> I've done a bit of looking, and these two products are looking like some of the better choices based on reviews and Tom's Hardware guide. I'm not sure if there's any topics here where thermal pastes are compared.
> 
> http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0039RY3MM/?tag=storagerealm02-20&creativeASIN=B0039RY3MM
> 
> vs
> 
> http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002P5W4RU/?tag=storagerealm02-20&creativeASIN=B002P5W4RU


Gelid is the way to go. It's the most price efficient, safer to work with, and easiest to clean.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If you're talking about one of the plastic washers that goes on the mounting screws, you should have extras with the other sets of mounting hardware.


oh thanks, I didn't realise those would fit with the 2011 screws


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> So I'm curious about putting a waterblock on my Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti (when one releases) and integrating it into my H240-X setup. I have a few questions for anyone willing to answer.
> 
> 1) Should I not bother with water cooling if my card has poor ASIC quality (<70%)? I'm worried the gains would be limited if the ASIC isn't great.
> 
> 2) Should I buy an additional radiator (120mm) to stick onto the back of my case? I have a mid-tower PC, so my space options are limited. The only other option for a radiator is intake at front-bottom of my case (could possibly fit 140MM).
> 
> 3) If I were to SLI my 980 Ti's, would it be ideal to have both an additional 120mm radiator in the rear exhaust spot, and a 140mm radiator in the front intake? Would the H240-X pump be able to support this?
> 
> 4) If it's possible to integrate SLI 980 Ti's into my watercooling setup, would the gains be worthwhile? Or will ithe gains be bottlenecked in some way due to a limitation of the H240-X?
> 
> Thanks


1) asic quality is quite in general slightly misleading. Sure, it insinuates that said chip may take up more power, but asic quality doesnt necessarily correlate to maximum potential clocks of a card, just more on how much voltage X can take, so its possible to get a card with a low asic but a high clock, it's just going to require more volts.

2) yes its recommended to get more radiator space, especially if overclocking the gpu is something you plan to do. the 980ti can really heat up under higher clocks(maxwell is relatively power efficient, but nothing can save a card from high amounts of cores on it). For instance, my slightly voltage consuming 3770k and 290 dumps a lot of heat in my loop (about 70c on heavy loads, 60-65 on more realistic use, 40 on idle, summer time) with only a 240mm x 29mm thick radiator and a 120mm x 34mm thick radiator. This problem didn't really exist with my 7970 when it was underwater(switched from a 7970(2048 stream processors) with only a universal WB to a 290(2560 stream processors) with a full wb(so heat from vram and vrm is now dumped into loop, as well as the heat from the back of my card because I specifically have an active cooling backplate) , its specifically cards with a high core count that will dump heat like no tomorrow.

3) cant say for sure myself

4) same as 3


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 1) asic quality is quite in general slightly misleading. Sure, it insinuates that said chip may take up more power, but asic quality doesnt necessarily correlate to maximum potential clocks of a card, just more on how much voltage X can take, so its possible to get a card with a low asic but a high clock, it's just going to require more volts.
> 
> 2) yes its recommended to get more radiator space, especially if overclocking the gpu is something you plan to do. the 980ti can really heat up under higher clocks(maxwell is relatively power efficient, but nothing can save a card from high amounts of cores on it). For instance, my slightly voltage consuming 3770k and 290 dumps a lot of heat in my loop (about 70c on heavy loads, 60-65 on more realistic use, 40 on idle, summer time) with only a 240mm x 29mm thick radiator and a 120mm x 34mm thick radiator. This problem didn't really exist with my 7970 when it was underwater(switched from a 7970(2048 stream processors) with only a universal WB to a 290(2560 stream processors) with a full wb(so heat from vram and vrm is now dumped into loop, as well as the heat from the back of my card because I specifically have an active cooling backplate) , its specifically cards with a high core count that will dump heat like no tomorrow.
> 
> 3) cant say for sure myself
> 
> 4) same as 3


Thanks







I guess my main concern at the moment is just figuring out if the pump is capable of supporting two additional radiators and waterblocks. Or perhaps it's wishful thinking for an AOI CPU cooler.

EDIT: A search reveals that people think I should be able to do this. All that's left is deciding what radiators I should buy, specifically.


----------



## madmeatballs

I've got a question for H240-x users what fans do you suggest I use for pulling?


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I've got a question for H240-x users what fans do you suggest I use for pulling?


The stock Helix fans lol.

Not sure why people are so content with switching out the fans? The Helix are very good fans, even the "legendary" Scythe GTs are only marginally better.


----------



## Bear304

I just finished my waterloop yesterday, where i'm using a Swiftech H220-X along with another 120mm radiator to cool the CPU and GPU.

But i have a question, what is the easiest way of getting the air out of the loop, i keep hearing some air bobbles go into the pump, i thought it would settle down, but it hasn't yet after 24 hours.

Could i have to much coolant in the system or do i just need to bleed it again? I figured someone in this thread would have had the same problem at some point









My water loop in my newly modded Antec P183


----------



## nbrikha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I just finished my waterloop yesterday, where i'm using a Swiftech H220-X along with another 120mm radiator to cool the CPU and GPU.
> 
> But i have a question, what is the easiest way of getting the air out of the loop, i keep hearing some air bobbles go into the pump, i thought it would settle down, but it hasn't yet after 24 hours.
> 
> Could i have to much coolant in the system or do i just need to bleed it again? I figured someone in this thread would have had the same problem at some point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My water loop in my newly modded Antec P183


I had turned mine to the side when I filled it. Ran the loop for a minute, then filled it again. I tried to physically maneuver the whole system to pull all air bubbles up then I filled it with more fluid. Even after a complete bleed, I had some air bubbles for a few days. Then it went away.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nbrikha*
> 
> I had turned mine to the side when I filled it. Ran the loop for a minute, then filled it again. I tried to physically maneuver the whole system to pull all air bubbles up then I filled it with more fluid. Even after a complete bleed, I had some air bubbles for a few days. Then it went away.


Hmm okay, will try it out if it doesn't go away









But i also had the idea of connecting a tube to the filport and have a shut-off valve that the other end to make it easier to filling and drain the loop.

I think you are right about me having to move the case around to get the air bobbles out, so i'll try to bleed the system again to tomorrow.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I've got a question for H240-x users what fans do you suggest I use for pulling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> The stock Helix fans lol.
> 
> Not sure why people are so content with switching out the fans? The Helix are very good fans, even the "legendary" Scythe GTs are only marginally better.


I absolutely second the recommendation on the Helix fans.

And I have no clue what is up with people having the need to change fans for the sake of changing fans without realizing what they already have. It has become an epidemic. "Different" does not always equal "Better".


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I absolutely second the recommendation on the Helix fans.
> 
> And I have no clue what is up with people having the need to change fans for the sake of changing fans without realizing what they already have. It has become an epidemic. "Different" does not always equal "Better".


Well, I gotta be honest I live in a hot country even small improvements help. What I mean with hot is 30-33c ambient.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Well, I gotta be honest I live in a hot country even small improvements help. What I mean with hot is 30-33c ambient.


it skirts the line of marginal improvement to the point that its possibly cheaper to buy an additional radiator completely if aiming for a $/temperature drop. When speaking about AIO's, the reason why the stock fan gets changed IMO is more on the acoustics performance, hence most mainstream AIO units have extremely loud fans when spinning at higher rpms to inflate its temperature performance in reviews. Swapping the fans will only give like 1-2c usually tops at maybe 15$ a fan, especially with the 240x where there is a distinct lack of good 140mm fans, your options are further more limited


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> it skirts the line of marginal improvement to the point that its possibly cheaper to buy an additional radiator completely if aiming for a $/temperature drop. When speaking about AIO's, the reason why the stock fan gets changed IMO is more on the acoustics performance, hence most mainstream AIO units have extremely loud fans when spinning at higher rpms to inflate its temperature performance in reviews. Swapping the fans will only give like 1-2c usually tops at maybe 15$ a fan, especially with the 240x where there is a distinct lack of good 140mm fans, your options are further more limited


I have to agree. Changing out the fans aren't going to give you very much in the way of a performance gain. You really would need to add more surface area in the way of radiator space, to improve your cooling performance in the way you're hoping to.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I've got a question for H240-x users what fans do you suggest I use for pulling?


Switched mine out with Noctua NF A14s 3000RPM editions and I really like it. Aside from weird PWM issues, which come and go (and might not necessarily be experienced by others), the fans have given me noticeably quieter performance from my H240-X. The Helix fans don't necessarily get loud, they simply don't hit high enough RPM's without having to turn up the pump considerably, and the pump becomes noticeable once you start turning up the % on the PWM at all.

Is it necessary? Probably not. But if you desire quiet performance and have money burning in your wallet, why not? I have 4 of them in my case, keeps balancing case air pressure very simple. I'm satisfied with switching them out, but the performance with the Helix fans is great (which is why this unit is so highly rated in the first place).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 1) asic quality is quite in general slightly misleading. Sure, it insinuates that said chip may take up more power, but asic quality doesnt necessarily correlate to maximum potential clocks of a card, just more on how much voltage X can take, so its possible to get a card with a low asic but a high clock, it's just going to require more volts.
> 
> 2) yes its recommended to get more radiator space, especially if overclocking the gpu is something you plan to do. the 980ti can really heat up under higher clocks(maxwell is relatively power efficient, but nothing can save a card from high amounts of cores on it). For instance, my slightly voltage consuming 3770k and 290 dumps a lot of heat in my loop (about 70c on heavy loads, 60-65 on more realistic use, 40 on idle, summer time) with only a 240mm x 29mm thick radiator and a 120mm x 34mm thick radiator. This problem didn't really exist with my 7970 when it was underwater(switched from a 7970(2048 stream processors) with only a universal WB to a 290(2560 stream processors) with a full wb(so heat from vram and vrm is now dumped into loop, as well as the heat from the back of my card because I specifically have an active cooling backplate) , its specifically cards with a high core count that will dump heat like no tomorrow.
> 
> 3) cant say for sure myself
> 
> 4) same as 3
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my main concern at the moment is just figuring out if the pump is capable of supporting two additional radiators and waterblocks. Or perhaps it's wishful thinking for an AOI CPU cooler.
> 
> EDIT: A search reveals that people think I should be able to do this. All that's left is deciding what radiators I should buy, specifically.
Click to expand...

just a fyi i have yet to see a pump that couldn't take a rad.

rads have near no restriction ( assuming you buy a new - name brand rad ) so until you start reaching obscene lengths of tubing yes you can easily add that rad, CPU/GPU blocks are the thing that you have to worry about adding too much restriction
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> I've got a question for H240-x users what fans do you suggest I use for pulling?
> 
> 
> 
> The stock Helix fans lol.
> 
> Not sure why people are so content with switching out the fans? The Helix are very good fans, even the "legendary" Scythe GTs are only marginally better.
Click to expand...

i could easily make a case against everything you just said about " legendary GTs"

my GTs blow any fan swiftech have out of the water, something like 11mm static pressure but mine are high speed.

dont get me wrong swiftech has some great fans.

unlike most companies swiftech actually gives a pq chart ( thanks bram and gabe !! )

while the helix fans are good your blanket statement is inadequate

what does the person want? silence? performance? a mixture of both ? aesthetics ? maybe they just dont want white blades ? without these facts ( what the person wants ) all else is meaningless.

my wife does keep the helix because she wants silence

i dont because i prefer performance


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Well, I gotta be honest I live in a hot country even small improvements help. What I mean with hot is 30-33c ambient.


I live in a hot country too, Malaysia in fact. 37-40c these days on any given afternoon. The Helix has been absolutely fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i could easily make a case against everything you just said about " legendary GTs"
> 
> my GTs blow any fan swiftech have out of the water, something like 11mm static pressure but mine are high speed.
> 
> dont get me wrong swiftech has some great fans.
> 
> unlike most companies swiftech actually gives a pq chart ( thanks bram and gabe !! )
> 
> while the helix fans are good your blanket statement is inadequate
> 
> *what does the person want? silence? performance? a mixture of both ? aesthetics ? maybe they just dont want white blades ? without these facts ( what the person wants ) all else is meaningless.*
> 
> my wife does keep the helix because she wants silence
> 
> i dont because i prefer performance


First, by BLOW ANY fan, you didn't bother state a metric figure difference. 11mm static pressure... sure, o... kay, so?

@bolded
Do we have to come into this thread and everytime someone asks a question, we have to reply by asking the same old preliminary "what are your preference? silence? performance? blah blah blah"? Isn't that the responsibility of the person asking the question?

Cool that you prefer performance, nothing wrong with that. I've had the Helix, the Phanteks MP, the GT and the so-overated NFF-12s, and the difference between them other than audible noise at a given RPM, they perform rather near to each other. It's a 1-3c delta and THAT heavily depends on the ambient temps.

Not saying there isn't a difference, but people need to stop with the "change yo' fans, get 10c lower temps!" thing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Not saying there isn't a difference, but people need to stop with the "change yo' fans, get 10c lower temps!" thing.


A thousand times yes....talk about a placebo effect.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We're still making them and they'll be back in stock in a couple of weeks. We're a small company after all.


Small company that makes great products. Said it several times now but I'm really happy with my H220-X.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have to agree. Changing out the fans aren't going to give you very much in the way of a performance gain. You really would need to add more surface area in the way of radiator space, to improve your cooling performance in the way you're hoping to.


So replacing the fans has very little effect on the cooling performance of the kit. Was going to replace the fans with faster spinning Zalman ones but now I can save myself the ear ache as you say it will have no effect anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A thousand times yes....talk about a placebo effect.


When you buy expensive fans you've got to feel something


----------



## VeerK

Does the Silver Bullet work with the H240x?


----------



## VPENG

I'd really like to buy a swiftech h240x but its not in stock anywhere, anyone have any idea when it will be in stock agian?


----------



## drop24

I have my H220X installed like the bottom image. The installation guide doesn't specify if this is ok or not. Anyone know if it's alright?


----------



## Mega Man

AFAIK it isn't ok. But I could be wrong. Unlike a ddc the pump has a pin that keeps the impeller from rubbing the housing


----------



## drop24

Hmm. I'll fire off an email to them. Or hopefully Bram sees this and knows.


----------



## VeerK

Has anyone tried to cover up the pump by placing something in front of it? I like the look of the res but it doesn't extend far enough down to cover the pump so I was looking for some ideas.


----------



## bukojuice

its all done








changed the orientation. i was now able to put the rear fan... adding a reservoir is the key to eliminate the grinding noise. running for almost 2yrs now. Very happy with the performance. Thanks to Bryan of Swiftech. kudos!


----------



## bluedevil

Well I think my CM Glacer 240L V2's pump just puked. Pulled it and put my CM 120M back on my 4790K. Gonna test it this weekend out of the case on the test bench. Gonna see if it was a bad SATA connection. I really don't want to go through another RMA.


----------



## NIK1

Are these Swiftech Apogee XL Extreme Performance Universal CPU Waterblock - Plexi (Intel / AMD) any better than the waterblock that comes stock with the H240x or is it just for looks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Are these Swiftech Apogee XL Extreme Performance Universal CPU Waterblock - Plexi (Intel / AMD) any better than the waterblock that comes stock with the H240x or is it just for looks.


It s the same block with a plexi top for a different look.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Does Swiftech have a guarantee on this watercooler about it being leaked free for the first 3 years? if you do not disassemble it ? On another computer forum, not sure If i can post it here but there's been some bad rep
on this cooler posted by users. I currently own one and nothing has been wrong with it except for my pwm reading which i ended up fixing by plugging the fan to the cpu fan header on the splitter and the pump to the CPU opt controller.
I guess I'm just a bit paranoid now after reading other users problems with the cooler.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Does Swiftech have a guarantee on this watercooler about it being leaked free for the first 3 years? if you do not disassemble it ? On another computer forum, not sure If i can post it here but there's been some bad rep
> on this cooler posted by users. I currently own one and nothing has been wrong with it except for my pwm reading which i ended up fixing by plugging the fan to the cpu fan header on the splitter and the pump to the CPU opt controller.
> I guess I'm just a bit paranoid now after reading other users problems with the cooler.


Yes, if you don't modify it, then it's guaranteed to be free from leaks for a period of 3 years. If you do modify it, the changes to the fittings won't be guaranteed to be free from leaking.


----------



## Jimbags

@BramSLI1
Could you please tell me the direction of the water flow on the original Swiftech H220? Or a diagram? Thanks


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> @BramSLI1
> Could you please tell me the direction of the water flow on the original Swiftech H220? Or a diagram? Thanks


Is the flow direction of the H220-X known?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Is the flow direction of the H220-X known?


Im pretty sure I saw it while googling the Original H220


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Im pretty sure I saw it while googling the Original H220


it goes from the backside of the pump out to the block and back in the return that's nearest the fillport...mounted in the top I guess that would make the flow counter clockwise


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Does Swiftech have a guarantee on this watercooler about it being leaked free for the first 3 years? if you do not disassemble it ? On another computer forum, not sure If i can post it here but there's been some bad rep
> on this cooler posted by users. I currently own one and nothing has been wrong with it except for my pwm reading which i ended up fixing by plugging the fan to the cpu fan header on the splitter and the pump to the CPU opt controller.
> I guess I'm just a bit paranoid now after reading other users problems with the cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, if you don't modify it, then it's guaranteed to be free from leaks for a period of 3 years. If you do modify it, the changes to the fittings won't be guaranteed to be free from leaking.
Click to expand...

I was just in a thread where aio coolers were being compared. Corsair was being credited having a warranty but I had to shut my mouth saying the same for Swiftech as I honestly didn't know. Thanks for the confirmation, I will pass that along in next time the topic comes up









How about coverage on damaged parts? Is there any allowances for this in swiftech's warranty?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I was just in a thread where aio coolers were being compared. Corsair was being credited having a warranty but I had to shut my mouth saying the same for Swiftech as I honestly didn't know. Thanks for the confirmation, I will pass that along in next time the topic comes up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about coverage on damaged parts? Is there any allowances for this in swiftech's warranty?


Find actual proof of anyone ever receiving a check from Corsair for this. We will be here waiting to see it.....provided that the internet actually still exists by the time you find it....

Besides, that is a very easy warranty to dish out. Chances of a leak in a sealed system that wasn't caused by mishandling is a million to one. They get the claim and dismiss it since "you tugged the tubing". I can't believe how naive people are with this stuff.


----------



## cravinmild

I guess I could go to the Corsair forums and ask a few mods to post a link or two of peeps getting happy endings. Honestly, idk if anyone ever has. Ive been in threads where users posted they are in the process of rma/coverage but ive never followed the thread to its conclusion. Im not saying your wrong but ya know ..... easier for me to ask you for proof of your statement via links to everyone who ever was denied.

Peeps are mostly stupid by nature, me included and ive ruined my fair share of stuff by not being educated as to how to use it (not reading instructions







) I can see a lot of denials of claims for stupidity.


----------



## Kokumotsu

I've had my 240x for a good while now but I hate that I can happily mount it in my r4. So I was thinking about getting a slimmer rad, new pump, maybe hard acrylic tunes with 90° fittings

Maybe I was looking at the wrong things but it was adding up to 300$

What would be a good alteration


----------



## mattlyall06

So, about a week or so ago my 240X started to do this.














bubbling in the window and also a bubbling noise which sounds like it's coming from the Radiator?


----------



## ssgtnubb

I'm starting to notice algae growth in my 220x after 3 months, time to start looking for some new fluid and now's a good time to think on new tubing as I've wanted to change the orientation a bit on my block within my case.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I'm starting to notice algae growth in my 220x after 3 months, time to start looking for some new fluid and now's a good time to think on new tubing as I've wanted to change the orientation a bit on my block within my case.


You have algae after 3 months did you change the coolant ?


----------



## MaLiXs

Anyone can tell me if the pump of an pretty old h220 should be sufficient with a gpu wb and an additional swiftech silent 240 mm radiator. Note that I'm using straight Barb fitting with clamp and anything's Else than flexible tuning

Envoyé de mon klte en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaLiXs*
> 
> Anyone can tell me if the pump of an pretty old h220 should be sufficient with a gpu wb and an additional swiftech silent 240 mm radiator. Note that I'm using straight Barb fitting with clamp and anything's Else than flexible tuning
> 
> Envoyé de mon klte en utilisant Tapatalk


Yes, the original h220 can handle cpu, gpu and the 2x 240mm radiators


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> You have algae after 3 months did you change the coolant ?


Nope, nothing.


----------



## GMcDougal

Im thinking about getting a 240x and have a few questions. Will it fit up top of a fractal r2 mini? How is the reliability of this unit and how are the temps when the fans are put in exhaust config instead of intake? I dont want hot air pumped back into my case so intake isnt really an option i want to do. Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I'm starting to notice algae growth in my 220x after 3 months, time to start looking for some new fluid and now's a good time to think on new tubing as I've wanted to change the orientation a bit on my block within my case.


I don't mean to be insulting, but are you sure it is algae and not plasticizer? Not that plasticizer would necessarily be better, but it would certainly make a lot more sense.


----------



## ssgtnubb

It's a very green color and there is buildup happening so I'm not sure, either way I've got to change the fluid at this point and will reroute the tubing to better fit my 540.


----------



## tcrews

Upgraded my loop and did some nice mods what ya all think?


----------



## ssgtnubb

Smexy for sure


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcrews*
> 
> 
> Upgraded my loop and did some nice mods what ya all think?


If that wouldn't void my warranty, I'd do it right now lol. What kind of paint did you use? Looks amazing


----------



## tcrews

Thank you  I used Rust-Oleum white spray paint bonds to both metal and plastic. Spray painted just about everything lol. I wanted to keep that swiftech sticker but it was just in bad shape.


----------



## rv8000

How is the noise on the pump for the H220X? Thinking about picking one up and then grabbing a block for my fury X and maby another 240 rad. Even though I rmad the first Fury X I had (which had awful pump whine), this card is far quieter, but the noise is at just the right frequency that my ears are ringing 24/7 and it's tiring/painful while sitting and reading/doing desktop work.


----------



## AmishTurtle

When will the SWIFTECH H240-X CPU LIQUID COOLING KIT be back in stock can find it anywhere.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Will the H240X offer much better cooling performance on a 4790K @4.7 GHz? Are these units a lot quitter than H100i/110i GT(X)?


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> I cant find them anywhere, there are some on eBay but they are extremely overpriced at around $200.


Ever looked at highflow in the Netherlands? They cost 180/190







Euros there.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcrews*
> 
> Upgraded my loop and did some nice mods what ya all think?


I think this looks awesome and was a great idea!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Will the H240X offer much better cooling performance on a 4790K @4.7 GHz? Are these units a lot quitter than H100i/110i GT(X)?


Like comparing a Ducati Superleggera and a tricycle.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcrews*
> 
> 
> Upgraded my loop and did some nice mods what ya all think?


I think that looks way better than the black color for that cooler. It looks really sharp. Good job.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Like comparing a Ducati Superleggera and a tricycle.


Understand thanks. And is the 240X much better than the 220X? Then again there is just 10 Euros between them.


----------



## tcrews

LOKI23NY and Zila thank you for the kind words


----------



## chartiet

word up @zila


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Understand thanks. And is the 240X much better than the 220X? Then again there is just 10 Euros between them.


On CPU only, just a couple of degrees difference but the H240-X will be quieter. If it fits in your case and you can get one, I think it's worth the extra ten.


----------



## tbone8ty

just got a 140mm rad to expand my h-220x. hopefully it will help with my top end temps on my FX-8350. gonna run push pull with some left over 140mm fans i have.
hopefully i can bleed all the air out when i setup the loop.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> just got a 140mm rad to expand my h-220x. hopefully it will help with my top end temps on my FX-8350. gonna run push pull with some left over 140mm fans i have.
> hopefully i can bleed all the air out when i setup the loop.
> 
> [/URL]


Please let us know how that goes. I've been considering making the same upgrade to my H240-X but I'm very intimidated by opening up the loop. I'm afraid of opening up a can of worms, if you know what I mean. But if things go well for you, that might ease my worries a bit.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> On CPU only, just a couple of degrees difference but the H240-X will be quieter. If it fits in your case and you can get one, I think it's worth the extra ten.


Quiet is important to me. Too bad I live in Netherlands and the prices are high here. Seems the Dutch shop keeps prices high because it is the only shop who sells them in Europe.


----------



## dikkiedirk

What are the advantages/disadvantages of the MCR140-X? Does it offer more flexibility? Would it allow me to add another 140 rad to place somewhere else in the case? Does it have the same pump as the H240X or H220X?


----------



## EarlZ

Will there ever be a H120X? the 140X is to large


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> What are the advantages/disadvantages of the MCR140-X? Does it offer more flexibility? Would it allow me to add another 140 rad to place somewhere else in the case? Does it have the same pump as the H240X or H220X?


It is the same pump and CPU block, just a smaller rad.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> What are the advantages/disadvantages of the MCR140-X? Does it offer more flexibility? Would it allow me to add another 140 rad to place somewhere else in the case? Does it have the same pump as the H240X or H220X?


Yes, it is the same pump. It's essentially designed to be used with GPU blocks since this is a rad/res/pump unit all in one. So you can add in any block(s), rads, fititngs, coolant etc and a loop is done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is the same pump and CPU block, just a smaller rad.


The MCR140-X Drive is just the rad/res/pump combo unit, you must be thinking of the H140-X.


----------



## JCofer

I'd have to say yes to this. I have not used both, just the h240-x, but before I chose I asked the same question that you are asking. I knew I wanted the all-copper Swiftech aio cooler in my TT V51, but was unsure as to which one I wanted.

My options were:, [email protected]$140 and [email protected]$150. So I just did the math, computing dollars per cm2 of cooling area--

Code:



Code:


The H220-x: $140/(12cmX24cm)=$140/(288cm2)=$.49 per cm2.

The H240-x: $150/(14cmX28cm)=$150/(392cm2)=$.38 per cm2.

And if that wasn't enough, I also compared the cooling area of the h240-x against an equally-thick 360 set up:

The H240-x is much closer to a triple-rad than a dual 120 @ 288cm2. 392cm2 vs 432cm2.

So, imo the h240-x is just better, and the extra $10 is easily justifiable. Provided your rig will support mounting it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The MCR140-X Drive is just the rad/res/pump combo unit, you must be thinking of the H140-X.


Yup, read that too quickly.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Will there ever be a H120X? the 140X is to large


Unfortunately not. We have no plans at this time to introduce a single 120mm fan radiator version of this kit. I'm sorry about that.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> How is the noise on the pump for the H220X? Thinking about picking one up and then grabbing a block for my fury X and maby another 240 rad. Even though I rmad the first Fury X I had (which had awful pump whine), this card is far quieter, but the noise is at just the right frequency that my ears are ringing 24/7 and it's tiring/painful while sitting and reading/doing desktop work.


The fans are louder than the pump and they're inaudible.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCofer*
> 
> I'd have to say yes to this. I have not used both, just the h240-x, but before I chose I asked the same question that you are asking. I knew I wanted the all-copper Swiftech aio cooler in my TT V51, but was unsure as to which one I wanted.
> 
> My options were:, [email protected]$140 and [email protected]$150. So I just did the math, computing dollars per cm2 of cooling area--
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> The H220-x: $140/(12cmX24cm)=$140/(288cm2)=$.49 per cm2.
> 
> The H240-x: $150/(14cmX28cm)=$150/(392cm2)=$.38 per cm2.
> 
> And if that wasn't enough, I also compared the cooling area of the h240-x against an equally-thick 360 set up:
> 
> The H240-x is much closer to a triple-rad than a dual 120 @ 288cm2. 392cm2 vs 432cm2.
> 
> So, imo the h240-x is just better, and the extra $10 is easily justifiable. Provided your rig will support mounting it.


The price difference between the H240 and H220 is about 30 USD here and it doesn't fit in the majority of cases, which is why i got the H220.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> The fans are louder than the pump and they're inaudible.


One of my helix fans squeaks


----------



## LezOU

Just to confirm:

on the H240-X, the pump is the output ?

So
H240-X pump -> CPU -> GPUx3 -> radiator -> autonomous pump -> H240-X rad

is fine ?

i setup my system today, but I have some issues....


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Please let us know how that goes. I've been considering making the same upgrade to my H240-X but I'm very intimidated by opening up the loop. I'm afraid of opening up a can of worms, if you know what I mean. But if things go well for you, that might ease my worries a bit.


I will! this is my first time to so we will see how it goes.
just waiting on some more parts.


----------



## tbone8ty

question for you guys...

which way is the correct way to mount this rad?

ports on bottom or ports on top?

how will this effect flow?





this is how it looks and how i want to set it up with push/pull fans.... also I modified my lian li lancool k62 case, cut out the side 5.25" drive bays so the 140mm rad would fit.













ive never done this before so any ideas or suggestions are welcome. thanks!


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I just finished my waterloop yesterday, where i'm using a Swiftech H220-X along with another 120mm radiator to cool the CPU and GPU.
> 
> But i have a question, what is the easiest way of getting the air out of the loop, i keep hearing some air bobbles go into the pump, i thought it would settle down, but it hasn't yet after 24 hours.
> 
> Could i have to much coolant in the system or do i just need to bleed it again? I figured someone in this thread would have had the same problem at some point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My water loop in my newly modded Antec P183


Is that Mayhem's Pastel in your loop?

What is the consensus on using stuff other than distilled water and/or Hydrix?


----------



## tbone8ty

^^^^

how did the EK Supremacy Evo waterblock do compared to the Swiftech Apogee XL waterblock? this is kind of the setup I'm going for. Did you get a nice temp drop?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Is that Mayhem's Pastel in your loop?
> 
> What is the consensus on using stuff other than distilled water and/or Hydrix?


Yes it is EK's white pastel concentrat the 250 ml which is mixed with 750 ml distilled water.

I think I heard Swiftech's hardware rep say something about it could effect the pump long-term, but I didn't know about that before after I had made my water loop.

But distilled water is the best choice for coolant, the pastel mixes is just for show.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> how did the EK Supremacy Evo waterblock do compared to the Swiftech Apogee XL waterblock? this is kind of the setup I'm going for. Did you get a nice temp drop?


I don't know first hand as I never use the Apogree XL, but some benchmarks show it as being one of the most restrictive cpu blocks when it comes to waterflow, and that the Supremacy Evo is 7-8*c more efficient.


----------



## bluedevil

Well my Glacer 240L RMA was just approved for RMA yesterday. Gotta ship out today. Hopefully I get it back in a few weeks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I don't know first hand as I never use the Apogree XL, but some benchmarks show it as being one of the most restrictive cpu blocks when it comes to waterflow, and that the Supremacy Evo is 7-8*c more efficient.


7-8 degrees? That is a _huge_ spread. Most of the reports I have seen have shown ~1-2 degrees in actual in loop testing.

I know the previous Apogees were incredibly restrictive, but I thought I had seen that the XL was a little high but essentially average. Can you share a link to the tests?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 7-8 degrees? That is a _huge_ spread. Most of the reports I have seen have shown ~1-2 degrees in actual in loop testing.
> 
> I know the previous Apogees were incredibly restrictive, but I thought I had seen that the XL was a little high but essentially average. Can you share a link to the tests?


Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014

The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
 








Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it


Thank you!


----------



## tbone8ty

yeah ive seen varying testing results, but one thing is more sure the EK Supremacy Evo is definitely alot less restrictive than the Swiftech Apogee XL and regardless that's good for some C's!

to bad you didn't test with swiftech Apogee XL first so you could tell us the difference


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> to bad you didn't test with swiftech Apogee XL first so you could tell us the difference


Yea i know, i thought about it, but ended up rushing to get my loop up and running, as down time is at a premium for me, plus as i where using a EK GPU block on my 970 G1 it just didn't make any sense to run a lesser cpu block when i already had a Supremacy Evo









But imo. the only thing the Swiftech Apogee XL has going for it is the LED lighting









But your right it could be very interesting to see a H220-X that has been upgraded with a Supremacy Evo vs. the original Apogee XL to see how much gain there could be.


----------



## LezOU

I noticed on my setup that I could feel the pressure by squeezing the tube before the apogee xl but not in the one after.

Since I have 3 gpu blocks and then another pump (and then I H240-x), i'm wondering if that impact cooling performance...


----------



## tcrews

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> yeah ive seen varying testing results, but one thing is more sure the EK Supremacy Evo is definitely alot less restrictive than the Swiftech Apogee XL and regardless that's good for some C's!
> 
> to bad you didn't test with swiftech Apogee XL first so you could tell us the difference


I have both blocks and will be testing them both in the next couple weeks or as time permits and will be happy to post results.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Yea i know, i thought about it, but ended up rushing to get my loop up and running, as down time is at a premium for me, plus as i where using a EK GPU block on my 970 G1 it just didn't make any sense to run a lesser cpu block when i already had a Supremacy Evo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But imo. the only thing the Swiftech Apogee XL has going for it is the LED lighting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But your right it could be very interesting to see a H220-X that has been upgraded with a Supremacy Evo vs. the original Apogee XL to see how much gain there could be.


What are you specs and Temps you are getting with this setup?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> What are you specs and Temps you are getting with this setup?


Well my setup is the H220-X 240mm rad + another 120mm rad, and a EK GTX 970 G1 block for GPU and a EK Supremacy Evo for the CPU.

The cpu is the I7 4790K OC'ed to 4,6 ghz and it stays under 70*c during a couple of hours of Prime95 stress testing, and the GTX 970 G1 is OC'ed to 1582 mhz it peaks at about 50*c.

And the water temp in the loop is about 35*C when the system is running a gaming load.

I don't know if i messed something up with the thermal paste on the cpu i think it went on to thick, but i'll know for sure when i drain the loop in a few months


----------



## TK421

Anyone know if the Glacer/swiftech pump can push through 3x120 rad, (2) 1x120 rad, reservoir, 1 gpu block and 1 cpu block?


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Well my setup is the H220-X 240mm rad + another 120mm rad, and a EK GTX 970 G1 block for GPU and a EK Supremacy Evo for the CPU.
> 
> The cpu is the I7 4790K OC'ed to 4,6 ghz and it stays under 70*c during a couple of hours of Prime95 stress testing, and the GTX 970 G1 is OC'ed to 1582 mhz it peaks at about 50*c.
> 
> And the water temp in the loop is about 35*C when the system is running a gaming load.
> 
> I don't know if i messed something up with the thermal paste on the cpu i think it went on to thick, but i'll know for sure when i drain the loop in a few months


sounds like its doing its job.

i wont be adding a gpu into my loop as of yet.

waiting on some tubing for the 140mm rad and of course an EK block









gotta tame my FX chips hungar for heat


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it


That EK block costs more than half the price of our kits (cheapest I've found is 80 USD), it better be good.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it


Instead of getting me an H240X I might get a MCR140-X, Supremacy EVO and maybe another 140 or 280 rad. Would that perform well?
Would the pump in the MCR140-X be up for that task?
What tubing do you recommend for this?
Can I just use distilled water as coolant or do I need some anti-algae additives?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Instead of getting me an H240X I might get a MCR140-X, Supremacy EVO and maybe another 140 or 280 rad. Would that perform well?
> Would the pump in the MCR140-X be up for that task?
> What tubing do you recommend for this?
> Can I just use distilled water as coolant or do I need some anti-algae additives?


If ít is the same pump as in the bigger versions that is in the smaller unit, then it is up for that task no problem









Another radiator doesn't really impact the performance much, as it is the cooling blocks are the most restrictive in a waterloop.

I would just go distilled water, or maybe get ones those premixed coolants that has all of the anti additives in it.

I would recommend 13/10 tubing from Primochill as it is the perfect size and is easy to work with


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Instead of getting me an H240X I might get a MCR140-X, Supremacy EVO and maybe another 140 or 280 rad. Would that perform well?
> Would the pump in the MCR140-X be up for that task?
> What tubing do you recommend for this?
> Can I just use distilled water as coolant or do I need some anti-algae additives?


The MCP30X in these kits is more than up to that task, and would be comfortable with a GPU added on top of that. Your performance with that setup should be excellent. I am personally of the mindset that I am inclined to believe the tests showing ~2 degree difference between the XL and EVO rather than the larger spread shown in the test above.

Running distilled alone with no biocide can be risky business. You will need at the very least a kill coil or Monsoon Silver Bullet. Nanofluids are advised against by Swiftech with these pumps, but HydrX, Mayhems X1 or XSPC concentrate would be a very small but important investment on your part.

I actually just switched from Monsoon DreamFlex to Primochill tubing. Personally, I thought that the DreamFlex was much easier to work with. All of the included fittings on the Swiftech pieces are 3/8"x5/8".


----------



## dikkiedirk

It is more or less a matter of pricing and availability. The H240X is sold here for 190 Euros and the MCR140-X for 100 Euros. Ican get the Supremacy EVO cheaper than the Apogee. I have to add in a radiator off course plus tubing, fittings fans and coolant. H240X is a bit more convenient but is hard to get at the moment.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> It is more or less a matter of pricing and availability. The H240X is sold here for 190 Euros and the MCR140-X for 100 Euros. Ican get the Supremacy EVO cheaper than the Apogee. I have to add in a radiator off course plus tubing, fittings fans and coolant. H240X is a bit more convenient but is hard to get at the moment.


The place i got mine a dutch shop called HighFlow has it in stock at 180 euros, i case you are looking to get it in Europe area









But the smaller H140-X + another radiator is a smart choice if you can make it work in your case


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> The place i got mine a dutch shop called HighFlow has it in stock at 180 euros, i case you are looking to get it in Europe area
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the smaller H140-X + another radiator is a smart choice if you can make it work in your case


Yes, I live in Netherlands. In fact they sell the H220X for 180 and the H240X for 190. Pretty much in my opinion.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Yes, I live in Netherlands. In fact they sell the H220X for 180 and the H240X for 190. Pretty much in my opinion.


Yeah they have the advantage of being the only shop in Europe to have the popular Swiftech's in stock, so they sell them at premium prices.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it


I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.


I had stated previously that I really didn't agree with these results. The HD vs. XL didn't jive, as Bryan pointed out. Also, the HD, XL and Raystorm were not consistent at all with other tests, including the ones we have conducted at HTL. I personally think that there has to be an inconsistency that is being overlooked somewhere in the testing methodology.


----------



## tbone8ty

So ports on rad up or down?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> So ports on rad up or down?


I prefer up in most cases so air doesn't get trapped in the top of the rad...


----------



## v1ral

Does anyone have pictures of the fill port with a 90 degree fitting to help with filling?
I've checked google and I can't seem to find any.
I plan on expanding my H220x soon and I am hoping filling it would be easy.
Also to add, with out having a 90 degree fitting now to test fit, what are the measurements/space I'll be working with going this route.
I have a Corsair 540 with a rather large GPU and I am going to have to place just the radiator inside with fans mounted outside, which should give me good enough space to add a fitting in the fill port*is the threads in the fill port in fact G1/4 inch thread*.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.


Something must be wrong here.
Other reviews, ie at HiTech Legion, show the Apogee XL having a better performance than the Supremacy, withing .5 degrees. Perhaps the Supremacy EVO might be better still, but withing 1 degree I think.

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40559-swiftech-apogee-xl-cpu-block-review?showall=&start=2


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.


I had a hard time believing it too, but i took as a valid result as i have seen countless of review saying the Apogee XL is a very restrictive cpu block, but cooling performance could come down to being bad thermal paste, but i don't know.

I where using all EK parts for my loop besides the H220-X combo unit, so i thought i would get a matching EK cpu block.

Hmm some of the reviewers could have been using the thermal paste that came with the blocks, as the Swiftech come with what was it, TinMate paste and the EK Supremacy comes with Gelid Extreme thermal paste thats one, if not the best thermal paste on the marked, so i think this could be the weak link, so it could have been set up against the EK who had an unfair advantage, but reviewers only test what is inside the box


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I had a hard time believing it too, but i took as a valid result as i have seen countless of review saying the Apogee XL is a very restrictive cpu block, but cooling performance could come down to being bad thermal paste, but i don't know.
> 
> I where using all EK parts for my loop besides the H220-X combo unit, so i thought i would get a matching EK cpu block.
> 
> Hmm some of the reviewers could have been using the thermal paste that came with the blocks, as the Swiftech come with what was it, TinMate paste and the EK Supremacy comes with Gelid Extreme thermal paste thats one, if not the best thermal paste on the marked, so i think this could be the weak link, so it could have been set up against the EK who had an unfair advantage, but reviewers only test what is inside the box


TIM in general shouldn't affect a bench alot. usually the only time there is a significant jump in TIM performance is usually when a certain substance is added into the mixture which can be slightly detrimental, for instance IC 7 includes diamonds (but since it includes diamonds, can scratch surfaces due to stregnth of diamond) and Coolaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra eats aluminum and leaves on a ridiculously strong seal that's hard to remove. And of course the extreme would be direct solder because its literal heat contact. The application is more likely the bad candidate over the actual tim itself. TIM in general should only be ±2 at most from each other if its not CLU/CLP, and that's like comparing the extreme ends.


----------



## t1337dude

I've isolated all my fan issues to the PWM control of my pump. It simply doesn't want to play along with any other signals. Swiftech is playing the semantics game and is saying my motherboard is incompatible with the pump.

The whole thing just seems really fishy. Feels like I've been baited and switched. If there are motherboards incompatible with the H240-X, shouldn't that be documented and published before people's money is swiftly taken? I feel like a guinea pig. My motherboard works perfectly with anything you plug into it - just not the pump. Common sense dictates the issue is the pump but they feel that it's much more likely that it's my motherboard's fault. You'd think if my motherboard was the problem - other devices would exhibit the same problem, yet the issue only arises with the pump plugged in.

"Oh, turns out our product isn't compatible with your motherboard? Too bad." - lovely customer service, resulting in 7+ months of headaches on my behalf. I have to go buy a new motherboard just to use the H240-X? How rich.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I've isolated all my fan issues to the PWM control of my pump. It simply doesn't want to play along with any other signals. Swiftech is playing the semantics game and is saying my motherboard is incompatible with the pump.
> 
> The whole thing just seems really fishy. Feels like I've been baited and switched. If there are motherboards incompatible with the H240-X, shouldn't that be documented and published before people's money is swiftly taken? I feel like a guinea pig. My motherboard works perfectly with anything you plug into it - just not the pump. Common sense dictates the issue is the pump but they feel that it's much more likely that it's my motherboard's fault. You'd think if my motherboard was the problem - other devices would exhibit the same problem, yet the issue only arises with the pump plugged in.
> 
> "Oh, turns out our product isn't compatible with your motherboard? Too bad." - lovely customer service, resulting in 7+ months of headaches on my behalf. I have to go buy a new motherboard just to use the H240-X? How rich.


Have you tired setting it up in the BIOS, it worked in my case









And yes the mobo can sometimes not figure out what device is pluged into it, but you should be able to configure a temp/RPM config which runs over DC power.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> TIM in general shouldn't affect a bench alot. usually the only time there is a significant jump in TIM performance is usually when a certain substance is added into the mixture which can be slightly detrimental, for instance IC 7 includes diamonds (but since it includes diamonds, can scratch surfaces due to stregnth of diamond) and Coolaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra eats aluminum and leaves on a ridiculously strong seal that's hard to remove. And of course the extreme would be direct solder because its literal heat contact. The application is more likely the bad candidate over the actual tim itself. TIM in general should only be ±2 at most from each other if its not CLU/CLP, and that's like comparing the extreme ends.


Indeed









But sometimes the blocks will have some garbage thermal paste included that simply is much less thermally conductive, which is what i meant in my post


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Have you tired setting it up in the BIOS, it worked in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes the mobo can sometimes can not figure out what device is pluged into it, but you should be able to configure a temp/RPM config which runs over DC power.


I've tried it. I've spent 30+ hours trouble shooting this issue. Nothing in the BIOS solves my issue









I've built my whole case and cooling setup around this H240-X...looks like I get the shaft.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I've tried it. I've spent 30+ hours trouble shooting this issue. Nothing in the BIOS solves my issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built my whole case and cooling setup around this pump...looks like I get the shaft.


Arh that sucks, it should never be so hard to set up

In the BIOS could you in there choose between AC and DC power for the pump ?

And which mobo are you using ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Arh that sucks, it should never be so hard to set up
> 
> In the BIOS could you in there choose between AC and DC power for the pump ?
> 
> And which mobo are you using ?


AC power to the pump? That certainly wouldn't end well......







Guessing you meant PWM signal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I've tried it. I've spent 30+ hours trouble shooting this issue. Nothing in the BIOS solves my issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built my whole case and cooling setup around this H240-X...looks like I get the shaft.


What MB is this? The only way I could see it being incompatible is if it doesn't have an actual PWM signal.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> AC power to the pump? That certainly wouldn't end well......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guessing you meant PWM signal.


Yea took that as a giving, but in order for my own mobo to controlled the pump i had to change the way the mobo controls the pump, but lol i'm no expect on how to setup pumps, but i got mine to work within 10 min and now it works just fine


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I've isolated all my fan issues to the PWM control of my pump. It simply doesn't want to play along with any other signals. Swiftech is playing the semantics game and is saying my motherboard is incompatible with the pump.
> 
> The whole thing just seems really fishy. Feels like I've been baited and switched. If there are motherboards incompatible with the H240-X, shouldn't that be documented and published before people's money is swiftly taken? I feel like a guinea pig. My motherboard works perfectly with anything you plug into it - just not the pump. Common sense dictates the issue is the pump but they feel that it's much more likely that it's my motherboard's fault. You'd think if my motherboard was the problem - other devices would exhibit the same problem, yet the issue only arises with the pump plugged in.
> 
> "Oh, turns out our product isn't compatible with your motherboard? Too bad." - lovely customer service, resulting in 7+ months of headaches on my behalf. I have to go buy a new motherboard just to use the H240-X? How rich.


We don't know that yet. That's just speculation at this point. Our engineer is looking into it and once I have your email address he'd like to contact you to discuss this further.


----------



## tbone8ty

getting ready just gotta measure tubes

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150714_231034_zpsyvafdq2l.jpg.html

oh and this came in









http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150716_113644_zpswvbhpuqf.jpg.html


----------



## TK421

Anyone know what is this revision for the CM Glacer?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Anyone know what is this revision for the CM Glacer?


Just a removable SATA/PWM cable is all.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just a removable SATA/PWM cable is all.


That's correct. The blue line around the connector is to distinguish it from the other pumps that we were producing at the time that also had this removable connector. The blue line indicates that this pump runs at 4500 RPMs rather than the standard 3000 RPMs of our other pumps.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I've isolated all my fan issues to the PWM control of my pump. It simply doesn't want to play along with any other signals. Swiftech is playing the semantics game and is saying my motherboard is incompatible with the pump.
> 
> The whole thing just seems really fishy. Feels like I've been baited and switched. If there are motherboards incompatible with the H240-X, shouldn't that be documented and published before people's money is swiftly taken? I feel like a guinea pig. My motherboard works perfectly with anything you plug into it - just not the pump. Common sense dictates the issue is the pump but they feel that it's much more likely that it's my motherboard's fault. You'd think if my motherboard was the problem - other devices would exhibit the same problem, yet the issue only arises with the pump plugged in.
> 
> "Oh, turns out our product isn't compatible with your motherboard? Too bad." - lovely customer service, resulting in 7+ months of headaches on my behalf. I have to go buy a new motherboard just to use the H240-X? How rich.


My mobo doesn't even care if I have anything connected to CPU fan header...wether it's a cpu fan, no fan, or the h240-x it just works

And the msi control center SW leaves me adjust the pump speed (although a 50% setting up pump is already at 3000rpm which seems to be the max)

(edited to remove the garbage, that'll teach me to post from my phone)

Sorry Bram,


----------



## hornedfrog86

I have had good service from Brian with my H220. It may take a while but I think it will get resolved.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> My mono doesn't even care if I have anything connected to CPU fan header...wether it's a cpu fan, fan, h24#-x p p nothin nothin nothin works
> 
> And the msi control center SW leaves me adjust the pump speed (although a 50% setting up pump is already at 3000rpm which seems to be the max)


Then that would be an issue with your motherboard. I would contact MSi about getting it RMA'd.


----------



## GMcDougal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> I have had good service from Brian with my H220. It may take a while but I think it will get resolved.


Every company has issues but its how you handle those issues and treat your customers that leaves an impression on your company. I like how Swiftech is involved on here and is helping customers with issues 1 on 1. Very nice stuff Swiftech


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Then that would be an issue with your motherboard. I would contact MSi about getting it RMA'd.


My apologies for my garbage post, I corrected it.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> My apologies for my garbage post, I corrected it.


No problem.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Then that would be an issue with your motherboard. I would contact MSi about getting it RMA'd.


Actually.....as insane as this sounds....I seem to recall one of the CPU headers on my MPower being VR only, regardless of the other being PWM.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.....as insane as this sounds....I seem to recall one of the CPU headers on my MPower being VR only, regardless of the other being PWM.


This was Brad answer to my post where I wrote the mobo was not working whatever was connected to the cpu fan header wheel I meant that it was working whatever was connected or not connected. (bloody autocorrect and lack of proof-reading)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> This was Brad answer to my post where I wrote the mobo was not working whatever was connected to the cpu fan header wheel I meant that it was working whatever was connected or not connected. (bloody autocorrect and lack of proof-reading)


The point being, if you had it connected to a VR header, it would operate at full speed since there would be no PWM signal. There would be no change when you disconnected it.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That's correct. The blue line around the connector is to distinguish it from the other pumps that we were producing at the time that also had this removable connector. The blue line indicates that this pump runs at 4500 RPMs rather than the standard 3000 RPMs of our other pumps.


So version 2 (4500) has faster pump speed compared to version 1 (3000)?

What's the flow rate of the 4500 pump?


----------



## tbone8ty

found this when i was dissembling my Apogee XL waterblock today









lots of little particles caught in the fins of the copper block. also you can see them floating around in the fluid. and the inside of the tubing is coated.













not sure if this is normal with the swiftech kits, but its not like it wasn't cooling, it was still doing its job. maybe temps were a touch higher...

just curious why there was so much crap in there for a fairly new AIO system from them.

swiftech please comment.

thanks


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> and the inside of the tubing is coated.
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if this is normal with the swiftech kits, but its not like it wasn't cooling, it was still doing its job. maybe temps were a touch higher...
> 
> just curious why there was so much crap in there for a fairly new AIO system from them.


We bet it's plasticizer issue.

It seems that your tubes are the old Shiny Black tubes, which had the plastcizer problem.

Swiftech replaced the Shiny Black Tubes to matte "rubber" tubes on their later revisions, which material has no plasticizer issue with them.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We bet it's plasticizer issue.
> 
> It seems that your tubes are the old Shiny Black tubes, which had the plastcizer problem.
> 
> Swiftech replaced the Shiny Black Tubes to matte "rubber" tubes on their later revisions, which material has no plasticizer issue with them.


oh okay yes it was the old shiny tubing.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We bet it's plasticizer issue.
> 
> It seems that your tubes are the old Shiny Black tubes, which had the plastcizer problem.
> 
> Swiftech replaced the Shiny Black Tubes to matte "rubber" tubes on their later revisions, which material has no plasticizer issue with them.


Does this issue include the CM Glacer 240V2? Or is the V2 unaffected?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Does this issue include the CM Glacer 240V2? Or is the V2 unaffected?


the change in tubing was a relatively recent change I think, so the glacer should still be using the glossy tubing. Only the latter half of the H220x240x stock should have came with rubber tubing. Plastisizer has been a topic discussed pretty thoroughly somewhere in this thread already. TL;DR its a common side effect of tubing as plastisizers give tubing and plastic the ability to bend better, but it can leech of the surface. The only way to effectively avoid the issue is to use specific kinds of tubing(hard acrylic/metal tubing doesnt use it as its bent by using heat, several types of tygon are plastisizer free as they naturally are pretty bendable, all other forms of tubing have some varying degree on how much the tubing with either fog up or leech plasticizer)


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the change in tubing was a relatively recent change I think, so the glacer should still be using the glossy tubing. Only the latter half of the H220x240x stock should have came with rubber tubing. Plastisizer has been a topic discussed pretty thoroughly somewhere in this thread already. TL;DR its a common side effect of tubing as plastisizers give tubing and plastic the ability to bend better, but it can leech of the surface. The only way to effectively avoid the issue is to use specific kinds of tubing(hard acrylic/metal tubing doesnt use it as its bent by using heat, several types of tygon are plastisizer free as they naturally are pretty bendable, all other forms of tubing have some varying degree on how much the tubing with either fog up or leech plasticizer)


ah damn

glacer 240v2 on local microcenter had glossy tubing :/


----------



## thetechguy21

Just added a new H220-X to my PS-07. Hopefully will be adding more components later.


----------



## ZC4065

Hey, just installed the new red window for my H220x after the old one cracked again, but now it won't stop leaking out of the window. I have tried redoing everything, the seal seems to be fine, it's screwed in properly. Anyone else had this issue?


----------



## NIK1

Anyone have any idea when Swiftech will have their new clear coolant available to buy.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetechguy21*
> 
> Just added a new H220-X to my PS-07. Hopefully will be adding more components later.


just putting it out there for another PS07 user, there's a heat difference somewhere between a 7970/280x and a 290. Average GPU/CPU temps will increase once it passes a threshold somewhere between there using 3x120mm of radiator space in the case (from maybe 55 load to close to 70 on CPU(gpu is still relatively low)). So just manage your GPU heat output. Given that your gpu is only using 2x6 pci-e, I would guess it produces less overall heat than a 7970, so you should be good assuming you add another 120mm radiator into the loop.


----------



## thetechguy21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> just putting it out there for another PS07 user, there's a heat difference somewhere between a 7970/280x and a 290. Average GPU/CPU temps will increase once it passes a threshold somewhere between there using 3x120mm of radiator space in the case (from maybe 55 load to close to 70 on CPU(gpu is still relatively low)). So just manage your GPU heat output. Given that your gpu is only using 2x6 pci-e, I would guess it produces less overall heat than a 7970, so you should be good assuming you add another 120mm radiator into the loop.


I will be adding a 120mm radiator soon and I will be adding new tubing and better looking fittings


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> found this when i was dissembling my Apogee XL waterblock today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots of little particles caught in the fins of the copper block. also you can see them floating around in the fluid. and the inside of the tubing is coated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if this is normal with the swiftech kits, but its not like it wasn't cooling, it was still doing its job. maybe temps were a touch higher...
> 
> just curious why there was so much crap in there for a fairly new AIO system from them.
> 
> swiftech please comment.
> 
> thanks


cleaned everything out, used new clear tubing and swiftech pre-mixed green fluid. temps are much better! now i just gotta get the bubbles out the bubbles the bubbles


----------



## bluedevil

So quick question, when I get my 240L back from RMA, thinking about going back to full watercooling. How much cooling would I need for a 5820k and SLId 970s?


----------



## GMcDougal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> cleaned everything out, used new clear tubing and swiftech pre-mixed green fluid. temps are much better! now i just gotta get the bubbles out the bubbles the bubbles


Those flakes almost looked like pieces of oxidized copper. It will be interesting to see what Swiftech says on here. Stuff like this has me on tbe fence of ordering a 240x.


----------



## tbone8ty

yeah i was definitely getting higher temps at full load.

its all clean now though and running much much better, cant imagine what the inside of the pump looks like.

i suppose i should have run hot water and vinegar in it to clean it out better.

a good test is to give the tube a flick with your finger....if you see stuff floating past the window then you know you have this problem.


----------



## tbone8ty

seems like they could revise the design a little bit with the extra space they have where the pump sites. there is some rad space behind it. maybe make the reservoir bigger and make it easier to bleed the air out when changing fluid and expanding it. or heck even mount the pump horizontal for a cleaner look.

overall a unique design. they just have had some quality issues in the beginning ( i was one of them with it leaking all over my 295x2 video card... bricking it.) hopefully everything is all ironed out by now.


----------



## EarlZ

Pretty common to see those dirt even on a brand new H220X.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> We don't know that yet. That's just speculation at this point. Our engineer is looking into it and once I have your email address he'd like to contact you to discuss this further.


Sorry for the slow reply, I've had a busy last few days. But in those last days I brought another PC over to my house and hooked up my splitter's PWM to the 2nd PC- the issue is absolutely identical. The fans work sporadically and then turn off all the same. Really doesn't leave any options as to what the issue could be at this point.


----------



## b4db0y

How loud is the pump noise on the H220X? I am going for a custom loop which is based off of this:


http://imgur.com/IOhlQ


I don't want to put in the effort if the pump noise is whiny and annoying though.

Thanks.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> How loud is the pump noise on the H220X? I am going for a custom loop which is based off of this:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/IOhlQ
> 
> 
> I don't want to put in the effort if the pump noise is whiny and annoying though.
> 
> Thanks.


At Low RPMs using the PWM function, I couldn't hear it and I'm pretty discerning with my rig right next to my face at ear level.


----------



## nhut

My reservoir has become kind of foggy with some build up - any ideas on what to do to clear it up? Using untouched stock coolant.

My 4790k is a burner, my temps top out around 85-90c under worst case stress test. Regular temps are fine, in the 60's most of the time when gaming.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nhut*
> 
> 
> 
> My reservoir has become kind of foggy with some build up - any ideas on what to do to clear it up? Using untouched stock coolant.
> 
> My 4790k is a burner, my temps top out around 85-90c under worst case stress test. Regular temps are fine, in the 60's most of the time when gaming.


What motherboard are you running? Did you check voltages on the CPU? Have updated the motherboards BIOS?


----------



## nhut

Running gigabyte z97x-ud3h-bk (black edition), voltages are a bit high for 4.6mhz, 1.32V. My chip isn't one of the good ones, isn't fully stable lower than this voltage.

Mobo bios is latest, F7.

Mostly concerned with why the window has so much deposit looking stuff on the inside.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nhut*
> 
> 
> 
> My reservoir has become kind of foggy with some build up - any ideas on what to do to clear it up? Using untouched stock coolant.
> 
> My 4790k is a burner, my temps top out around 85-90c under worst case stress test. Regular temps are fine, in the 60's most of the time when gaming.


see this.....

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_145948_zpsurwask4d.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_145952_zpskrrezxtc.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_165825_zpsqxqjq0lx.jpg.html

I would highly recommend cleaning your loop out.

if you have the old shiny tubing then you will have the plasticizers problem.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> see this.....
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_145948_zpsurwask4d.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_145952_zpskrrezxtc.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150717_165825_zpsqxqjq0lx.jpg.html
> 
> I would highly recommend cleaning your loop out.
> 
> if you have the old shiny tubing then you will have the plasticizers problem.


it looks like plasticizer to me...the more you heat that shiny tubing up (higher temp) the worse the plasticizer break down is...that's why swiftech revised it to be the neoprene based tubing...if you do have the neoprene based I'm at a loss


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it looks like plasticizer to me...the more you heat that shiny tubing up (higher temp) the worse the plasticizer break down is...that's why swiftech revised it to be the neoprene based tubing...if you do have the neoprene based I'm at a loss


yeah i changed my tubing out so im good now!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Does Swiftech have a guarantee on this watercooler about it being leaked free for the first 3 years? if you do not disassemble it ? On another computer forum, not sure If i can post it here but there's been some bad rep
> on this cooler posted by users. I currently own one and nothing has been wrong with it except for my pwm reading which i ended up fixing by plugging the fan to the cpu fan header on the splitter and the pump to the CPU opt controller.
> I guess I'm just a bit paranoid now after reading other users problems with the cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, if you don't modify it, then it's guaranteed to be free from leaks for a period of 3 years. If you do modify it, the changes to the fittings won't be guaranteed to be free from leaking.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was just in a thread where aio coolers were being compared. Corsair was being credited having a warranty but I had to shut my mouth saying the same for Swiftech as I honestly didn't know. Thanks for the confirmation, I will pass that along in next time the topic comes up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about coverage on damaged parts? Is there any allowances for this in swiftech's warranty?
Click to expand...

they have stated it is situation specific ( IE maybe )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Like comparing a Ducati Superleggera and a tricycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Understand thanks. And is the 240X much better than the 220X? Then again there is just 10 Euros between them.
Click to expand...

do you want 140mm fans or 120 mm fans ?


Spoiler: cpu block results !



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 7-8 degrees? That is a _huge_ spread. Most of the reports I have seen have shown ~1-2 degrees in actual in loop testing.
> 
> I know the previous Apogees were incredibly restrictive, but I thought I had seen that the XL was a little high but essentially average. Can you share a link to the tests?
> 
> 
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Sure thing, it shows the benchmarks in a CPU block round-up test from summer 2014, it is here on OCN, they tested alot of current waterblocks the same way to find out which did the best.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
> 
> The EK Supremacy EVO is the best waterblock you can buy, as it out performs every other block, the one that comes closest to it is the older Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look here, i bet alot of Apogee XL owner an't going to like it one bit, hints why i sold of the Apogee XL block i got with my H220-X before i had even used it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.
> 
> 
> 
> I had stated previously that I really didn't agree with these results. The HD vs. XL didn't jive, as Bryan pointed out. Also, the HD, XL and Raystorm were not consistent at all with other tests, including the ones we have conducted at HTL. I personally think that there has to be an inconsistency that is being overlooked somewhere in the testing methodology.
Click to expand...




tbh i dont trust ANY tests that use a CPU too many variables - use a heater, state how much heat was absorbed,

1 variable easily controlled

from what i see in that graph too they also dont mention the ambient temp, which will affect cpu temps-- again using a heater is far superior in this aspect
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> So ports on rad up or down?


really personal pref, IMO to the side is easiest to bleed -- it all comes out to bleeding either up or the side are the easiest but some of mine are down because of space issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I had a hard time believing it too, but i took as a valid result as i have seen countless of review saying the Apogee XL is a very restrictive cpu block, but cooling performance could come down to being bad thermal paste, but i don't know.
> 
> I where using all EK parts for my loop besides the H220-X combo unit, so i thought i would get a matching EK cpu block.
> 
> Hmm some of the reviewers could have been using the thermal paste that came with the blocks, as the Swiftech come with what was it, TinMate paste and the EK Supremacy comes with Gelid Extreme thermal paste thats one, if not the best thermal paste on the marked, so i think this could be the weak link, so it could have been set up against the EK who had an unfair advantage, but reviewers only test what is inside the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIM in general shouldn't affect a bench alot. usually the only time there is a significant jump in TIM performance is usually when a certain substance is added into the mixture which can be slightly detrimental, for instance IC 7 includes diamonds (but since it includes diamonds, can scratch surfaces due to stregnth of diamond) and Coolaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra eats aluminum and leaves on a ridiculously strong seal that's hard to remove. And of course the extreme would be direct solder because its literal heat contact. The application is more likely the bad candidate over the actual tim itself. TIM in general should only be ±2 at most from each other if its not CLU/CLP, and that's like comparing the extreme ends.
Click to expand...

do you or anyone one else have any proof of scratching, from the icdiamond?? i have yet to see proof, i did see some kid make pics of a scratch that does not imo look to be made from tim but the kid dragged his block across his IHS

i would also like to add they do NOT use diamonds, that would be silly and costly - they use synthetic diamond powder, i have been using it for quite awhile as has @KyadCK @Red1776 and several others, all without issue !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So quick question, when I get my 240L back from RMA, thinking about going back to full watercooling. How much cooling would I need for a 5820k and SLId 970s?


in addition i would recommend new tubing block for gpu and fittings to add in new tubing personally i would add an additional 120-240 of rad and also fittings for new rad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> cleaned everything out, used new clear tubing and swiftech pre-mixed green fluid. temps are much better! now i just gotta get the bubbles out the bubbles the bubbles
> 
> 
> 
> Those flakes almost looked like pieces of oxidized copper. It will be interesting to see what Swiftech says on here. Stuff like this has me on tbe fence of ordering a 240x.
Click to expand...

no it is plasticizer been an issue long before swiftech had h220s


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> no it is plasticizer been an issue long before swiftech had h220s


plasticizer with a side of algae?


----------



## Mega Man

you are mixing up the posts, the gentleman who says it is algae ( please note this is neither stating it is nor that it isnt, just stating what he said ! )was someone else who didnt post pics,

tbone8ty did however
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> found this when i was dissembling my Apogee XL waterblock today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lots of little particles caught in the fins of the copper block. also you can see them floating around in the fluid. and the inside of the tubing is coated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if this is normal with the swiftech kits, but its not like it wasn't cooling, it was still doing its job. maybe temps were a touch higher...
> 
> just curious why there was so much crap in there for a fairly new AIO system from them.
> 
> swiftech please comment.
> 
> thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Yeah mega I did sorry...so many with plasticizer and/or algae...it's an epidemic...







I'm kinda wondering what I'm going to find when I open my loop for cleaning again...temps are surely creeping up so I know it's time...

Also on the subject of diamond (nano as they like to call it) pastes im using Antec diamond 7 as we speak and through the four remount I've done even with accidentally sliding the block once when removing I see 0 scratches on my cpu or heatsink...I kind of like the thickness of the diamond pastes they don't seem to be as messy for clean up


----------



## tbone8ty

you could just get new tubing and an EK Supremacy Evo block and get 20C better cooling mauhahaha


----------



## KyadCK

@Mega Man

Actually, IC Diamond is made of mostly itty bitty synthetic diamond chips. While pretty diamonds that go on rings are expensive, industrial and synthetic diamonds are more than cheap enough to use in things like thermal paste as long as you use what amounts to normally useless filings like IC Diamond does, and diamond is an excellent thermal conductor.

A heatsink with a Diamond base would actually be more effective than a copper one from what I hear, but a starting block of that size and trying to machine one to specifications you'd want is problematic.

But ya, IC Diamond is totally 90%+ diamond or something like that. It's what makes it so good. It just happens to be scraps of very ugly fake diamonds.

EDIT: It's late. Misread. Whatever. No scratches from IC diamond, but stains from Liquid Ultra are a thing.

And yes, IC Diamond is life, the only paste I've used that is better is Liquid Ultra, and that stuff is a complete pain.


----------



## dikkiedirk

please delete.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> you could just get new tubing and an EK Supremacy Evo block and get 20C better cooling mauhahaha


You could build a custom loop with a MCR140-X to start with and add an extra rad, tubing, cpu block, fittings and coolant of your own choice.

.


----------



## Mnemo05

has anyone tried using am h140x on a GPU?

I was wondering whether it will be enough to cool down a 980Ti with a full block

I buddy of mine is letting go of his unit for practically half the price, I can keep the CPU block as a spare of even sell it even..

back to my question, will a 140mm rad enough for a GPU full block?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> has anyone tried using am h140x on a GPU?
> 
> I was wondering whether it will be enough to cool down a 980Ti with a full block
> 
> I buddy of mine is letting go of his unit for practically half the price, I can keep the CPU block as a spare of even sell it even..
> 
> back to my question, will a 140mm rad enough for a GPU full block?


More than enough I would say.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> has anyone tried using am h140x on a GPU?
> 
> I was wondering whether it will be enough to cool down a 980Ti with a full block
> 
> I buddy of mine is letting go of his unit for practically half the price, I can keep the CPU block as a spare of even sell it even..
> 
> back to my question, will a 140mm rad enough for a GPU full block?


A measly 120 on the EVGA Hybrid 980Ti and it cools it in the low 50s. A 140 + full wc block? Pssh, easy.


----------



## dikkiedirk

How do you guys drain these H140/220/240-Xs? Without making a mess if possible. Do you extend the fillport with a piece of tubing to create a fillport in a convenient place? What fittings or possibly valves are needed for this?

Swiftech 140 mm fans seem to be unavailable in the Netherlands. What are a good radiator-friendly alternative? Corsair SP series? Phanteks? Noctua? Silent if possible. Is fpi important?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> How do you guys drain these H140/220/240-Xs? Without making a mess if possible. Do you extend the fillport with a piece of tubing to create a fillport in a convenient place? What fittings or possibly valves are needed for this?
> 
> Swiftech 140 mm fans seem to be unavailable in the Netherlands. What are a good radiator-friendly alternative? Corsair SP series? Phanteks? Noctua? Silent if possible. Is fpi important?


I usually drain by removing the CPU block over a plastic jug. As far as filling, I usually prefill before installing. If the loop is extended I always add a res.

The Phanteks F140MP are an excellent radiator fan at a very fair price, it would be very hard to justify the price difference for the Noctuas. A lot of people swear by the Cougar Vortex HDB, I have never used them on a rad but can attest that they are very quiet and move a great amount of air.

The Corsair SP are awesome for replicating the sound of a beauty salon with all of its hair dryers going! Other than that....I see no use for them. Check out this video at 11:30 comparing the SP to the Helix -


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I usually drain by removing the CPU block over a plastic jug. As far as filling, I usually prefill before installing. If the loop is extended I always add a res.
> 
> The Phanteks F140MP are an excellent radiator fan at a very fair price, it would be very hard to justify the price difference for the Noctuas. A lot of people swear by the Cougar Vortex HDB, I have never used them on a rad but can attest that they are very quiet and move a great amount of air.
> 
> The Corsair SP are awesome for replicating the sound of a beauty salon with all of its hair dryers going! Other than that....I see no use for them. Check out this video at 11:30 comparing the SP to the Helix -


Which Noctuas do you mean, here in Holland the NF-A15 pwm and F140MP are close in price, within 1 Euro.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Which Noctuas do you mean, here in Holland the NF-A15 pwm and F140MP are close in price, within 1 Euro.


You would actually need to go to the NF-A14, which is the same fan with a square basket for 140mm mounting. In the US the Noctua is ~$10 more. They are very similar in performance and noise, though the F140MP has slightly higher static pressure - though not enough of a differential to really make a difference. Either one is an excellent choice.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> How do you guys drain these H140/220/240-Xs? Without making a mess if possible. Do you extend the fillport with a piece of tubing to create a fillport in a convenient place? What fittings or possibly valves are needed for this?
> 
> Swiftech 140 mm fans seem to be unavailable in the Netherlands. What are a good radiator-friendly alternative? Corsair SP series? Phanteks? Noctua? Silent if possible. Is fpi important?


I drain just like @ciarlatano does.

But for filling, since I'm using a Phanteks Luxe where the top vent can be popped off. So I just connected a funnel to a tube into the H240x, fill and then bleed.


----------



## LezOU

pix of my final setup:

H240-X pump -> cpu -> rad 120+fan (out) -> gpus -> rad 240 -> XSPX H2O 420 (res+pump) -> H240-x rad 240+fans (in)


----------



## mattlyall06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattlyall06*
> 
> So, about a week or so ago my 240X started to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bubbling in the window and also a bubbling noise which sounds like it's coming from the Radiator?


I'm assuming no one replied because this is a common problem with these units? Wish I would have known that before I purchased, probably would have went with something else. A shame, really, since it's an awesome cooler.


----------



## tbone8ty

Ek supremacy evo block is running great. Definitely decreased temps by alot after I cleaned everything out with new tubes and fluid.


----------



## bluedevil

So when I get my CM Glacer 240L back from RMA, adding an additional MCR120 in the loop, would that be enough to cool a 5820K and a 980Ti OC'd?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So when I get my CM Glacer 240L back from RMA, adding an additional MCR120 in the loop, would that be enough to cool a 5820K and a 980Ti OC'd?


if you want a temperature reference, my OG h220 radiator and a MCR120-QP cooling my delidded i7-3770k(Coolaboratory Liquid Pro on die, TIM Mate on Lid) and stock 290(aquacomputer + active cooling backplate, so basically taking in most of the heat off the card) gets the CPU at 70 top (~65 average) and gpu to 60-65 on heavier gaming load on a hot summer day.

for reference of what my loop is ran at, I run Push Pull(cause i have the excess fans to do so, and just enough room) on the rad intaking from the front of my case (2 Swiftech Helix and 2 Gelid PL)
the MCR120-QP in the back has a Corsair SP120 on it.

My pump is set to run at 40% at most loads, 55% on heavy loads near 70c(~2000 rpm on pump, Helix fans probably near 1400 rpm). Corsair SP is running at a fixed 1000 rpm in the back. Gelids are controlled by external fan controller(included with the fans), so i cant give an rpm reading on them, but its around 8 or 9v of power(voltage controlled for those fans)

Temps could be better of course, but I prefer to run my loop at lower RPMS as I value acoustics over temperatures. I also leave my 290 at relatively stock because I don't need to OC it for most games at only 1080p, its usually more than enough, but its heat output could give you an idea of what an OC 980ti can do.


----------



## Strider49

Hi,

I've just noticed that the H220-X is selling for 132€ on CoolerKit (against the ~180€ price tag on HighFlow), whereas the H240-X costs about 190€ on HighFlow and 201€ on CoolerKit. I was actually ready to pull the trigger on the H240-X for its better performance per noise ratio, but this big price gap between the two made me think twice. I'll use the kit to cool an i7 4770K only, but (I think) I would prefer to have 140mm fans only inside my case, an Enthoo Primo btw. What do you think? Should I go with the cheaper H220-X or the beefier H240-X? (Why is there such a big difference in price between the two anyway?!)

What about the TIM paste? Should I go grab a tube of Arctic MX-4 or I'm fine with the one that ships with the kit?

Btw, these units that are in stock should already have the revised neoprene based (matte) tubing, right? I tried to contact HighFlow about this via email a day ago, but they haven't answered yet.









Cheers


----------



## Dudewitbow

just my opinion, 2x140mm is a bit of a waste for CPU only overclocking, The gains of performance to cost would be extremely minimal unless you are doing work that is extremely CPU heavy and doing it for extended periods of time(e.g editing workstation)

but yeah in your situation its aesthetics of a 240mm radiator to cost ratio. If you value the aesthetics for the cost, go for it, its probably something for you to decide, but with such a price difference, the performance gains would be extremely marginal


----------



## tbone8ty

^Nice setup!

Here is mine. Just added an ek supremacy evo block and a 140mm rad


----------



## runelotus

^^ Nice Setup

Heres my First Expansion of My Swiftech H220x

Added EK XT120 Rad and Ek- Supremacy En-Acetal , universal GPU Block


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strider49*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I've just noticed that the H220-X is selling for 132€ on CoolerKit (against the ~180€ price tag on HighFlow), whereas the H240-X costs about 190€ on HighFlow and 201€ on CoolerKit. I was actually ready to pull the trigger on the H240-X for its better performance per noise ratio, but this big price gap between the two made me think twice. I'll use the kit to cool an i7 4770K only, but (I think) I would prefer to have 140mm fans only inside my case, an Enthoo Primo btw. What do you think? Should I go with the cheaper H220-X or the beefier H240-X? (Why is there such a big difference in price between the two anyway?!)
> 
> What about the TIM paste? Should I go grab a tube of Arctic MX-4 or I'm fine with the one that ships with the kit?
> 
> Btw, these units that are in stock should already have the revised neoprene based (matte) tubing, right? I tried to contact HighFlow about this via email a day ago, but they haven't answered yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


The H220-X is listed at Coolerkit Denmark for 1250 DKK which converts to 167 Euros. These units are way overpriced in Europe. I live in the Netherlands and am not too happy with Highflow. I buy as little as possible from them because they charge high shippingrates plus additional 3.4 % for Paypal. Service and warranty is not so great either. When I see the many mods going on for the H240X discussed here like different different tubing and CPU blocks I think I gonna start with a MCR140X drive and a EK Supremacy MX waterblock plus tubing, fittings fans and coolant of my liking. I probably go with brandless fittings, cause brandnames add only costs. Bitspower might look good but cost 3 to 4 times as much as brandless ones. I gonna add an additional 240 or 280 radiator too.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> The H220-X is listed at Coolerkit Denmark for 1250 DKK which converts to 267 Euros. These units are way overpriced in Europe. I live in the Netherlands and am not too happy with Highflow. I buy as little as possible from them because they charge high shippingrates plus additional 3.4 % for Paypal. Service and warranty is not so great either. When I see the many mods going on for the H240X discussed here like different different tubing and CPU blocks I think I gonna start with a MCR140X drive and a EK Supremacy MX waterblock plus tubing, fittings fans and coolant of my liking. I probably go with brandless fittings, cause brandnames add only costs. Bitspower might look good but cost 3 to 4 times as much as brandless ones. I gonna add an additional 240 or 280 radiator too.


I live in Denmark and had had ordered mine at Coolerkit, but they can't seem to keep the H220-X in stock, i waited 2 weeks before i got pissed and cancelled my ordered and paid the premium price at HighFlow, which is the only store in EU that seem to keep them in stock, so don't waste your time waiting for Coolerkit to get it in stock









I think a H140-X is a good with a good copper rad is a good combination

Going with brandless fittings you lose the quality control of the brand fittings, EK's own fittings are pretty good, i used those myself, and Bitspower's price on fittings is just crazy - but the choice is yours









___

@ Tbone8ty
That set up turned out pretty well, btw does mobo's VRM's really get that hot so it needs a dedicated fan, or is that just a by product of OC a 8 core AMD cpu above 4 ghz ?


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I live in Denmark and had had ordered mine at Coolerkit, but they can't seem to keep the H220-X in stock, i waited 2 weeks before i got pissed and cancelled my ordered and paid the premium price at HighFlow, which is the only store in EU that seem to keep them in stock, so don't waste your time waiting for Coolerkit to get it in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think a H140-X is a good with a good copper rad is a good combination
> 
> Going with brandless fittings you lose the quality control of the brand fittings, EK's own fittings are pretty good, i used those myself, and Bitspower's price on fittings is just crazy - but the choice is yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> @ Tbone8ty
> That set up turned out pretty well, btw does mobo's VRM's really get that hot so it needs a dedicated fan, or is that just a by product of OC a 8 core AMD cpu above 4 ghz ?


In fact I was talking about the MCR140-X, which is only the rad/res/pump combo without other bit and parts. Because some people modify tubing and CPU block anyway.

Regarding fittings I might go with the Alphacool version which offer good quality at a reasonable price.

Which tubing do you guys use BTW? Is Feser tubing and coolant any good?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattlyall06*
> 
> I'm assuming no one replied because this is a common problem with these units? Wish I would have known that before I purchased, probably would have went with something else. A shame, really, since it's an awesome cooler.


Please PM me about this. I'd like to assist you with resolving this issue.


----------



## LezOU

I used EK (visible) and alphacool (hidden) straight compression fittings and alphacool 90degres compression fittings.

I used masterkleer tubing.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> ___
> 
> @ Tbone8ty
> That set up turned out pretty well, btw does mobo's VRM's really get that hot so it needs a dedicated fan, or is that just a by product of OC a 8 core AMD cpu above 4 ghz ?


Thanks! It was alot of fun learning and experimenting.

Overall it dropped temps 15-20 degrees C max load running IBT avx. So I'd say it was a success!!!

Cooling the VRMs with fans is a must for FX chips overclocked past 4.4 ghz.

I'm adding an EK X3 reservoir soon to help wit bleeding and air bubbles. Maybe that will drop temps further.


----------



## Ragin Asian

Here's my loop. Really helped tame temps on my 8320.


----------



## Mnemo05

I was worried that a 140mm rad will not be able to handle the heat generated by the GPU, VRAM and VRMs as I plan on using a full water block to cool the whole card rather than just the GPU..

Thanks for the replies, will update accordingly


----------



## funfordcobra

Can this work or does the h220x HAVE to be mounted up top for gravity reasons? I can mount it the right way, it just will be below the GPUS on a bracket I will make.

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150718_003906.jpg.html


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Can this work or does the h220x HAVE to be mounted up top for gravity reasons? I can mount it the right way, it just will be below the GPUS on a bracket I will make.
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150718_003906.jpg.html


if done as pictured, I wouldn't see why it cant be done, just be sure that the loop is completely filled though as you dont want the air bubbles staying in your block some way. So when filling the loop, fill it while the case is on its side as its much easier to fill a loop when the reservoir you are filling it from is at the top of the loop in some way, so orient the case in such way that it happens.


----------



## funfordcobra

cool thanks.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Would it be beneficial to add the VRMs on my motherboard in the loop? The heatsinks on them have G1/4 connections.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Can this work or does the h220x HAVE to be mounted up top for gravity reasons? I can mount it the right way, it just will be below the GPUS on a bracket I will make.
> 
> http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/20150718_003906.jpg.html


That can be done, but most likely your top block will act like a reservoir and will trap air. Could wind up being a real pain to keep bled.

Why not lose the CLC? Then you can mount the H220-X up top and add a second 240mm where you are currently thinking of adding the H220-X. That way you have one clean loop. It will give you better performance and look worlds better.


----------



## funfordcobra

so something more like this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> so something more like this?


That would be much better. The only way that you can install these kits in the bottom is if you have the pump and reservoir under the radiator. That's going to make it difficult with the way you wanted to mount it in your previous configuration.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> so something more like this?


Exactly.


----------



## funfordcobra

thx guys. should I use 1/2 inner diameter soft tubing with g1/4 1/2 diameter barbs?


----------



## v1ral

As time goes by I notice the window on my H220X has gotten more murky or rather, when I flash a light into the area, there seems to be "stuff" inside. Is it advisable to drain and flush it now or would I go the extra mile and open the block up and see if there is "stuff" in it?

It's starting to concern me, this is the dirtiest I've ever seen a res ever, and I've had a custom loop before and it wasn't as bad as this.


----------



## vartok

Hey guys, i just installed a new H220X last night... was a bit of a pain, but still easer than the scythe Mugen 2 it was replacing. Before installing it, i replaced the stock fans with a pair of Corsair SP120 high preformance fans that i had. Acording to spec sheets, they have a higher CFM and higher static pressure. I installed in in my HAF 923 case on the top replacing the 240mm fan. Im running a FX8350 on an ASUS sabertooth 990FX board (stock speeds). I also used the thermal paste it came with because i couldnt find my tube of AS5.

On the mugen 2 with just one of the SP120 fans, funning prime, Load temps usualy are around 55c. Now with this, its loads up to 61c. Could it be the difference in thermal paste? because this should have walked all over the Mugen 2


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> Hey guys, i just installed a new H220X last night... was a bit of a pain, but still easer than the scythe Mugen 2 it was replacing. Before installing it, i replaced the stock fans with a pair of Corsair SP120 high preformance fans that i had. Acording to spec sheets, they have a higher CFM and higher static pressure. I installed in in my HAF 923 case on the top replacing the 240mm fan. Im running a FX8350 on an ASUS sabertooth 990FX board (stock speeds). I also used the thermal paste it came with because i couldnt find my tube of AS5.
> 
> On the mugen 2 with just one of the SP120 fans, funning prime, Load temps usualy are around 55c. Now with this, its loads up to 61c. Could it be the difference in thermal paste? because this should have walked all over the Mugen 2


I would use the stock swiftech helix fans they are better in my opinion. I have mine blowing into the rad from the top

Make sure water block is mounted evenly and tightened down well.

Play with the supplied fan header to make sure fans and pump ramp up when cpu is loaded. Pump is 3000 rpms at full load.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> I would use the stock swiftech helix fans they are better in my opinion. I have mine blowing into the rad from the top
> 
> Make sure water block is mounted evenly and tightened down well.
> 
> Play with the supplied fan header to make sure fans and pump ramp up when cpu is loaded. Pump is 3000 rpms at full load.


I have the fan control turned off on the motherboard for the time being, so everything runs full. I plugged the pump into the red caped header on the fan splitter, and according to the motherboard, it is running at 3000.

I might try pulling the block tonight and redoing the thermal paste just to make sure (if i can find my AS5)

The fans are pulling through the rad and out the top of the case. i get basically the same temps with or without the side panel, so i dont think its hot case air causing it


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> I have the fan control turned off on the motherboard for the time being, so everything runs full. I plugged the pump into the red caped header on the fan splitter, and according to the motherboard, it is running at 3000.
> 
> I might try pulling the block tonight and redoing the thermal paste just to make sure (if i can find my AS5)
> 
> The fans are pulling through the rad and out the top of the case. i get basically the same temps with or without the side panel, so i dont think its hot case air causing it


I would guess a remount is in order...check your spread when you take it off...thus will give you an idea if you used too much...to little it simply tightened it down unevenly...it's tedious but I do mine half a turn alternating corners...

1 | |4
3 | |2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> thx guys. should I use 1/2 inner diameter soft tubing with g1/4 1/2 diameter barbs?


Personal preference. I personally find 1/2"x3/4" tubing too heavy looking in the case, much prefer the look of 3/8"x5/8".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> Hey guys, i just installed a new H220X last night... was a bit of a pain, but still easer than the scythe Mugen 2 it was replacing. Before installing it, i replaced the stock fans with a pair of Corsair SP120 high preformance fans that i had. Acording to spec sheets, they have a higher CFM and higher static pressure. I installed in in my HAF 923 case on the top replacing the 240mm fan. Im running a FX8350 on an ASUS sabertooth 990FX board (stock speeds). I also used the thermal paste it came with because i couldnt find my tube of AS5.
> 
> On the mugen 2 with just one of the SP120 fans, funning prime, Load temps usualy are around 55c. Now with this, its loads up to 61c. Could it be the difference in thermal paste? because this should have walked all over the Mugen 2


I will be the second to tell you that the Helix are much better fans, IMO. But, yes, sounds like you have a seating and/or TIM issue.


----------



## vartok

oh. well if a reseat doesnt fix it, or if i have more heat issures, ill change the fans out. Like i said, i was just going off specs, ad the sp120s are supost to flow ~10CFM more air and have 1mmH2O higher pressure


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> oh. well if a reseat doesnt fix it, or if i have more heat issures, ill change the fans out. Like i said, i was just going off specs, ad the sp120s are supost to flow ~10CFM more air and have 1mmH2O higher pressure


Changing to the Helix won't net you any performance gains. They will net you approximately the same performance with half the noise. Despite what CLCs do, actual liquid cooling is not supposed to sound like a vacuum cleaner.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Changing to the Helix won't net you any performance gains. They will net you approximately the same performance with half the noise. Despite what CLCs do, actual liquid cooling is not supposed to sound like a vacuum cleaner.


heh, well the fans they replaced were some old scythe 110cfm like 3500rpm fans. I really not care much about noise, i usualy have an oscillating fan going in my room anyway, so the only time i hear my PC is when a bearing in a fan is going out. So if they wont net me lower temps, its not worth the hastle of changing them back around.


----------



## vartok

what do you guys think of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? I got to thinking... AS5 has been around forever... so there had to be something better.. thats what i came up with.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> what do you guys think of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? I got to thinking... AS5 has been around forever... so there had to be something better.. thats what i came up with.


It is great performing TIM, but very difficult to work with and almost impossible to remove. Noctua NT-H1, Arctic MX-4 or Gelid GC Extreme are all excellent compounds that won't kill your block and will provide good performance.


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is great performing TIM, but very difficult to work with and almost impossible to remove. Noctua NT-H1, Arctic MX-4 or Gelid GC Extreme are all excellent compounds that won't kill your block and will provide good performance.


I second artic cooling mx-4 or gelid extreme.

Just out of curiosity what color are your tubes? Shiny black or flat black?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> what do you guys think of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? I got to thinking... AS5 has been around forever... so there had to be something better.. thats what i came up with.


Due to the damage that it will do to your CPU block when removing it, the use of this TIM with our kits will void your warranty. Just something to keep in mind.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> As time goes by I notice the window on my H220X has gotten more murky or rather, when I flash a light into the area, there seems to be "stuff" inside. Is it advisable to drain and flush it now or would I go the extra mile and open the block up and see if there is "stuff" in it?
> 
> It's starting to concern me, this is the dirtiest I've ever seen a res ever, and I've had a custom loop before and it wasn't as bad as this.


Yes, you can flush it. Hot tap and a little dish soap will be all you'll need to use. Then just rinse it once with distilled before refilling it.


----------



## Sesameopen

Hey guys quick question. Will I be able to get decent temps if I add in 2 gpu blocks and 2 more radiators? Or will that be pushing it?


----------



## Kutalion

I think thats too much for this pump.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> I second artic cooling mx-4 or gelid extreme.
> 
> Just out of curiosity what color are your tubes? Shiny black or flat black?


flat black.

I redid the past last night. heres the pattern from when i pulled the block





temps did come down some, but its also cooler in my room last night.... heres the temps after running the high heat prime test for 40min


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sesameopen*
> 
> Hey guys quick question. Will I be able to get decent temps if I add in 2 gpu blocks and 2 more radiators? Or will that be pushing it?


Depending on the restriction of the GPU blocks you'll either be right at or over what these pumps are capable of. Radiators don't add very much restriction, but GPU blocks can. I would consider adding another pump to the loop just to be on the safe side.


----------



## tbone8ty

@vartok

Seat was a little off. Not bad though. Don't be afraid to torque the apogee xl water block down. Springs should almost be compressed fully.

I think your using a little to much paste.

And get some mx-4 or gelid extreme. It's much better than artic silver 5.

Also a fan on the vrm heatsinks will help!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> flat black.
> 
> I redid the past last night. heres the pattern from when i pulled the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps did come down some, but its also cooler in my room last night.... heres the temps after running the high heat prime test for 40min


41 degree core temps are outstanding. There is no issue here - what is making you think there is one?


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 41 degree core temps are outstanding. There is no issue here - what is making you think there is one?


If im not mistaken, the AMD FX chips individual core temps arnt actually read, theres an algorithm or something that guesses that.... unless im getting that backwards from the actual CPU temp... i know one of them is off. the 57c on the CPU was what i was going by, as thats the one i have displayed on my aida64 widget. It 61c with the first mount but i dont remember looking at the core temps. I took a screen of the aida program to give yall an idea of case temps and such.

as for the VRMs. i did have a artic spotcool pointed that them, but it died a few months ago and the place i got it from no longer carries it... and i havent really thought about it enough to snag one from newegg.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> If im not mistaken, the AMD FX chips individual core temps arnt actually read, theres an algorithm or something that guesses that.... unless im getting that backwards from the actual CPU temp... i know one of them is off. the 57c on the CPU was what i was going by, as thats the one i have displayed on my aida64 widget. It 61c with the first mount but i dont remember looking at the core temps. I took a screen of the aida program to give yall an idea of case temps and such.
> 
> as for the VRMs. i did have a artic spotcool pointed that them, but it died a few months ago and the place i got it from no longer carries it... and i havent really thought about it enough to snag one from newegg.


yes it is an algorithm rather than a physical sensor but over 40c it's pretty accurate..you will have cpu temp and socket temp (usually labeled package)


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yes it is an algorithm rather than a physical sensor but over 40c it's pretty accurate..you will have cpu temp and socket temp (usually labeled package)


what you see there are all the temps that i can pick up


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> what you see there are all the temps that i can pick up


hwinfo64 is free and can show you more


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> If im not mistaken, the AMD FX chips individual core temps arnt actually read, theres an algorithm or something that guesses that.... unless im getting that backwards from the actual CPU temp... i know one of them is off. the 57c on the CPU was what i was going by, as thats the one i have displayed on my aida64 widget. It 61c with the first mount but i dont remember looking at the core temps. I took a screen of the aida program to give yall an idea of case temps and such.
> 
> as for the VRMs. i did have a artic spotcool pointed that them, but it died a few months ago and the place i got it from no longer carries it... and i havent really thought about it enough to snag one from newegg.


That's right....I totally forgot that AMD core temp readings might as well read "your guess is as good as mine"....


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 41 degree core temps are outstanding. There is no issue here - what is making you think there is one?


oh yeah Vartok...

i thought u ment you were getting 57C on your core temps.

41C is great after testing 40 min of prime. the higher one is usually the onboard mobo temp and sometimes are off. at least my crosshair v formula one is not very accurate.

good luck!


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> oh yeah Vartok...
> 
> i thought u ment you were getting 57C on your core temps.
> 
> 41C is great after testing 40 min of prime. the higher one is usually the onboard mobo temp and sometimes are off. at least my crosshair v formula one is not very accurate.
> 
> good luck!


oh, i thought the cores were the inaccurate ones. I plan on playing with the overclock, so are those the ones i should be looking at?


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hwinfo64 is free and can show you more


i downloaded that... it does pick up the cpu and pacage temps.... but they were reading 12c at idle... my room aint that cold


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> i downloaded that... it does pick up the cpu and pacage temps.... but they were reading 12c at idle... my room aint that cold


yeah like someone said earlier the cpu uses an algorithm and its not accurate below like 35~40C

with proper cooling of vrms and cpu for FX chips the core(s) temp and mobo cpu temp should be within 10C of each other.


----------



## Mnemo05

what type of GPU waterblocks do you recommend to be used with these kits? I am concern about mixed metals on the loop. I am supposed to use copper or nickel?

thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> what type of GPU waterblocks do you recommend to be used with these kits? I am concern about mixed metals on the loop. I am supposed to use copper or nickel?
> 
> thanks!


Copper and nickel are both noble metals and have very limited galvanic reaction. This is why you see them used in higher end liquid cooling. You can use either with no issues.

And, yes, EK had a run of bad nickel plating on some parts that caused it to flake. So, before anyone tries to convince you otherwise, it was the result of the plating being done incorrectly, _not_ due to interaction with another metal.


----------



## Darkz0r

Hey guys,
My H220x is arriving in a few days and I'll be installing it on a CM Storm Stryker case, I have a few questions:

-Some people say I should bleed it, so should I add a drop of dish soap and run it full RPM for like 3 hours (or more/less)?
-I plan on using the 2x120mm fans @ front as intake, 1x140mm fan @ back as exhaust and top mounted h220x as intake. Or should I use back fan as intake and h220x as exhaust? Does it even matter much?

Thanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkz0r*
> 
> Hey guys,
> My H220x is arriving in a few days and I'll be installing it on a CM Storm Stryker case, I have a few questions:
> 
> -Some people say I should bleed it, so should I add a drop of dish soap and run it full RPM for like 3 hours (or more/less)?
> -I plan on using the 2x120mm fans @ front as intake, 1x140mm fan @ back as exhaust and top mounted h220x as intake. Or should I use back fan as intake and h220x as exhaust? Does it even matter much?
> 
> Thanks!


if you aren't opening the kit to expand you usually don't have to bleed anything...


----------



## Mnemo05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Copper and nickel are both noble metals and have very limited galvanic reaction. This is why you see them used in higher end liquid cooling. You can use either with no issues.
> 
> And, yes, EK had a run of bad nickel plating on some parts that caused it to flake. So, before anyone tries to convince you otherwise, it was the result of the plating being done incorrectly, _not_ due to interaction with another metal.


Now that in mind, seeing that the tubes of these rads are made of brass and the apogee cpu block is made of copper, would it still be safe to use a nickel plated GPU water block on this loop? will there be any corrison that will be triggered by the mixed metal in the loop?

thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> Now that in mind, seeing that the tubes of these rads are made of brass and the apogee cpu block is made of copper, would it still be safe to use a nickel plated GPU water block on this loop? will there be any corrison that will be triggered by the mixed metal in the loop?
> 
> thanks!


Brass is also noble. The issue you are thinking of is with aluminum.


----------



## Mnemo05

great stuff, I am new to all this custom loops.. I have been using AIO for the longest time and I feel that I should move bit by bit to custom cooling, ahaha!

Thanks for all the replies! ^_^

Now off to find the best block in terms of price/performance ratio.. I have seen a chinese branded(Bykski?) water block that sells for cheap.. they look like EK knock-offs, have seen several people using them and reported that they actually are good.. but I guess they will be the last on my list.. ahaha!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> great stuff, I am new to all this custom loops.. I have been using AIO for the longest time and I feel that I should move bit by bit to custom cooling, ahaha!
> 
> Thanks for all the replies! ^_^
> 
> Now off to find the best block in terms of price/performance ratio.. I have seen a chinese branded(Bykski?) water block that sells for cheap.. they look like EK knock-offs, have seen several people using them and reported that they actually are good.. but I guess they will be the last on my list.. ahaha!




just to bring martin's list again. The point in a loop is to keep the metals at roughly the same value. the larger the value, the faster the corrosion, Shows why aluminum Copper loops are unhealthy in long run. With most major water blocks and radiators will contain either or combinations of copper, brass, nickel(usually for plating) as well as silver. The only thing to watch out for are some companies do not prefer running silver along with nickel plated blocks, but it will probably vary. Usually silver or corrosion inhibitors are used to kill organisms in a loop, so in general if you want to minimize use of different metals in a loop, go with premade coolant/additives like PT Nuke over silver.

just be sure to not have anything aluminum in the loop (like don't go buy a cheap chinese aluminum radiator to add into your loop, that's basically asking for trouble)


----------



## Mnemo05

thanks alot for the list.. I found some good priced blocks at ppc, not sure though how much will they cost if shipped to singapore.. kinda hard to find local shops here that sells waterblocks at a reasonable price, this is singapore after all..


----------



## dansi

hi, anyone know if h140x can fit into drive bays of rv02e? i might want to use it for gpu cooling but rv02e not have a good place to mount 140mm rad.


----------



## Sesameopen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Depending on the restriction of the GPU blocks you'll either be right at or over what these pumps are capable of. Radiators don't add very much restriction, but GPU blocks can. I would consider adding another pump to the loop just to be on the safe side.


Thanks! So any pump will do? I looked online and found some decent $40 pumps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sesameopen*
> 
> Thanks! So any pump will do? I looked online and found some decent $40 pumps.


What $40 dollar pump are you talking about? I don't know of any that are decent for $40.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> What $40 dollar pump are you talking about? I don't know of any that are decent for $40.


You beat me to it.


----------



## Dudewitbow

you can get some relatively cheap pumps if imported from china

Example of pumps

Example of build log using said pump

Though of course, quality and noise is not something that is tested with products like these. So I can't vouch for anything, better to ask the users who actually have them.


----------



## passinos

Anyone one using a MCR140-X Drive on a 290x?


----------



## thelude

This looks oddly similar.....


----------



## VSG

It's a licensed part, no conspiracy there.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's a licensed part, no conspiracy there.


That is correct.


----------



## thelude

Ok. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's a licensed part, no conspiracy there.


Ok. Thanks.


----------



## dudesquirrel

My H220's pump stopped working again. The last time it was replaced pretty quickly by Swiftech, but I'm curious. Does anyone knew if I can just splice into the tube and add my own pump instead of replacing the one built into the block?


----------



## zila

Why not just replace it with the new MCP50X? That's what I'm gonna do eventually to both my H220 and CM 240L I don't think it would work very well trying to flow fluid through a dead pump.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudesquirrel*
> 
> My H220's pump stopped working again. The last time it was replaced pretty quickly by Swiftech, but I'm curious. Does anyone knew if I can just splice into the tube and add my own pump instead of replacing the one built into the block?


Get the mcp50x, i love that pump real good for its nature. I may even go ahead and say the best. Better than the mcp35x imho n runs cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is correct.


a little off topic here but do you guys make some sort of mount/bracket for the mcp50x?


----------



## RedIron

Hey Guys,

I got this http://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Thermal-Interface-Material/dp/B0039RY3MM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438042965&sr=1-1

thinking it was safe, but it's not to be used with aluminum. Looking at the specs again http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx#tab2 the waterblock is copper, so I'm good right?

Thanks.


----------



## jumpman

Has anyone experienced the H220 pump's PWM stop working? Just today it's suddenly running at full load all the time. I've checked my CPUFAN connectors with a PWM fan and it works. The splitter is working as well. I've plugged the pump directly into the motherboard and also the splitter, but it still runs 100% @3000rpm.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> what do you guys think of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? I got to thinking... AS5 has been around forever... so there had to be something better.. thats what i came up with.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Due to the damage that it will do to your CPU block when removing it, the use of this TIM with our kits will void your warranty. Just something to keep in mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I got this http://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Thermal-Interface-Material/dp/B0039RY3MM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438042965&sr=1-1
> 
> thinking it was safe, but it's not to be used with aluminum. Looking at the specs again http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx#tab2 the waterblock is copper, so I'm good right?
> 
> Thanks.


@*RedIron*

Kindly check BramSLi post above when ask with the same question.


----------



## Duke976

Deleted double post.


----------



## bluedevil

Well, I am out of the club......CM is sending me a Nepton 240M to replace my Glacer 240L.


----------



## dudesquirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Why not just replace it with the new MCP50X? That's what I'm gonna do eventually to both my H220 and CM 240L I don't think it would work very well trying to flow fluid through a dead pump.


How would I replace the pump myself then? Would I have to buy a new cpu block or could I use the one I already have from the H220? This is all still theoretical as I'm waiting for contact from customer support.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Has anyone experienced the H220 pump's PWM stop working? Just today it's suddenly running at full load all the time. I've checked my CPUFAN connectors with a PWM fan and it works. The splitter is working as well. I've plugged the pump directly into the motherboard and also the splitter, but it still runs 100% @3000rpm.


I was one person whose PWM capability was lost in the pump with my last RMA. There was actually 1 day where it worked fine, for like 30 minutes, but went at full speed afterwords. Basically as you described, PWM signal working by testing it with pwm capable device(the helix fans) Pump just not recieving the pwm changes but the rpm is still reported.


----------



## zila

It's quite simple really, Bram offered to walk me through it and I'm sure he would offer the same for you too.

I was done in less than ten minutes and that included a good cleaning. It's not difficult at all.


----------



## jumpman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I was one person whose PWM capability was lost in the pump with my last RMA. There was actually 1 day where it worked fine, for like 30 minutes, but went at full speed afterwords. Basically as you described, PWM signal working by testing it with pwm capable device(the helix fans) Pump just not recieving the pwm changes but the rpm is still reported.


Did you eventually get it fixed or RMA again?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Did you eventually get it fixed or RMA again?


RMA'd with phone conference self repair rather than sending the entire kit itself.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedIron*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I got this http://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Thermal-Interface-Material/dp/B0039RY3MM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438042965&sr=1-1
> 
> thinking it was safe, but it's not to be used with aluminum. Looking at the specs again http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx#tab2 the waterblock is copper, so I'm good right?
> 
> Thanks.


Should consider Gelid GC Extreme instead, it isn't too pricey and offers for the best thermal performance while being completely safe to apply and remove.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Should consider Gelid GC Extreme instead, it isn't too pricey and offers for the best thermal performance while being completely safe to apply and remove.


I totally agree with this. This is what I am using with my H220 and H140x.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpman*
> 
> Has anyone experienced the H220 pump's PWM stop working? Just today it's suddenly running at full load all the time. I've checked my CPUFAN connectors with a PWM fan and it works. The splitter is working as well. I've plugged the pump directly into the motherboard and also the splitter, but it still runs 100% @3000rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudesquirrel*
> 
> How would I replace the pump myself then? Would I have to buy a new cpu block or could I use the one I already have from the H220? This is all still theoretical as I'm waiting for contact from customer support.


Please PM me about these issues.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Hey guys,

I bought Swiftech H320 several weeks ago but my RAM and graphics card arrived today, so i was unable to assemble all my components together.

Tonight i did and it seems my Swiftech H320 is not running. Fans are running but the pump seems dead silent. Is this normal behaviour? Or did I **** up some power connections?

This is what i have done:
Connected the pump wire to the CPU fan

Gave sata power to both the cables from PSU.


3 white fans are working though:


Also there's a small 2 pin wire not connected to anything. What am i doing wrong here? Or is the pump DOA? Please help.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I bought Swiftech H320 several weeks ago but my RAM and graphics card arrived today, so i was unable to assemble all my components together.
> 
> Tonight i did and it seems my Swiftech H320 is not running. Fans are running but the pump seems dead silent. Is this normal behaviour? Or did I **** up some power connections?
> 
> This is what i have done:
> Connected the pump wire to the CPU fan
> 
> Gave sata power to both the cables from PSU.
> 
> 
> 3 white fans are working though:
> 
> 
> Also there's a small 2 pin wire not connected to anything. What am i doing wrong here? Or is the pump DOA? Please help.


What MB are you using?


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What MB are you using?


I'm using MSI X99A Gaming 7 motherboard. Also would the temps exceed 60ºC if CPU is under 100% load via Prime 95? Honestly i don't know whether pump is working or not.

Also i made some alteration in the PWM splitter. I moved the white ones first, so only fans are connected there and then i plugged the black 4 pin connecter of pump to CPU 1 FAN connection (left of CPU). The black 4 pin of PWM in CPU2 FAN connection (top right).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> I'm using MSI X99A Gaming 7 motherboard. Also would the temps exceed 60ºC if CPU is under 100% load via Prime 95? Honestly i don't know whether pump is working or not.
> 
> Also i made some alteration in the PWM splitter. I moved the white ones first, so only fans are connected there and then i plugged the black 4 pin connecter of pump to CPU 1 FAN connection (left of CPU). The black 4 pin of PWM in CPU2 FAN connection (top right).


Ok, first thing. Are you getting a speed reading on CPU_1? That would be the speed of the pump. If you are getting a reading, the pump is running. If you plug the PWM splitter into CPU_1, and the pump into channel 1 of the splitter (as it says to do in the manual), you will also be getting the speed reading of the pump.

If you are saying that you are running Prime95 and your PC isn't shutting down due to temps, the pump is working. If the pump was not working protection mode would kick in seconds after starting Prime95, and likely would not last too long even idling. In other words....if you are using the computer and your cores aren't burning up, yes the pump is working.

Would cores be above 60 degrees running P95 on an X99 CPU, the answer is 99% yes.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, first thing. Are you getting a speed reading on CPU_1? That would be the speed of the pump. If you are getting a reading, the pump is running. If you plug the PWM splitter into CPU_1, and the pump into channel 1 of the splitter (as it says to do in the manual), you will also be getting the speed reading of the pump.
> 
> If you are saying that you are running Prime95 and your PC isn't shutting down due to temps, the pump is working. If the pump was not working protection mode would kick in seconds after starting Prime95, and likely would not last too long even idling. In other words....if you are using the computer and your cores aren't burning up, yes the pump is working.
> 
> Would cores be above 60 degrees running P95 on an X99 CPU, the answer is 99% yes.


Ah okay, it seems the pump is indeed working. I unplugged the SATA power and was holding the tube and saw as if liquid stopped pumping in the tubes and then I inserted it back again to feel the liquid running again. The pump is actually very quiet, so that's why I thought it wasn't working. This is my first AIO water cooler.









Btw were my connections okay, as shown in the previous pictures?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> Ah okay, it seems the pump is indeed working. I unplugged the SATA power and was holding the tube and saw as if liquid stopped pumping in the tubes and then I inserted it back again to feel the liquid running again. The pump is actually very quiet, so that's why I thought it wasn't working. This is my first AIO water cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw were my connections okay, as shown in the previous pictures?


Your first wiring looked correct.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your first wiring looked correct.


Yeah I did it how it was shown in the manual as the pump was put in the CPU cooler one in PWM, by which we can know whether it's running or not etc. I just thought that maybe I did something wrong by misunderstanding something because English is not my native language.

I still have to figure some things since connections for other fans, power button etc need to be done in my NZXT Phantom 820 cabinet. Also have to figure out what to do with 140 mm fan on top and how to use it somehow with my triple fan rad of H320. I think I can adjust the fans on radiator below, so that rad fans blow air on the radiator from inside the cabinet and then the 140 case can on top further sucks it out of the case. Not sure if that's the right way to go or not.

Anyways thanks a lot for the help mate, I spent a lot of money and waited for my components for like 2 months since I couldn't find MSI GTX 980Ti 6G gaming OC edition card in my country. So was quite depressed thinking my CPU cooler is broke.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> Yeah I did it how it was shown in the manual as the pump was put in the CPU cooler one in PWM, by which we can know whether it's running or not etc. I just thought that maybe I did something wrong by misunderstanding something because English is not my native language.
> 
> I still have to figure some things since connections for other fans, power button etc need to be done in my NZXT Phantom 820 cabinet. Also have to figure out what to do with 140 mm fan on top and how to use it somehow with my triple fan rad of H320. I think I can adjust the fans on radiator below, so that rad fans blow air on the radiator from inside the cabinet and then the 140 case can on top further sucks it out of the case. Not sure if that's the right way to go or not.
> 
> Anyways thanks a lot for the help mate, I spent a lot of money and waited for my components for like 2 months since I couldn't find MSI GTX 980Ti 6G gaming OC edition card in my country. So was quite depressed thinking my CPU cooler is broke.


just for reference, you know when your pump isn't working when your CPU spikes to 80+c within like a minute. its usually clear as day


----------



## tbone8ty

where should i mount the res in the loop? ( its not connected up yet just in the there for reference)

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150724_211547_zpsetvmbxye.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150724_211558_zpsz77pyo08.jpg.html

i was thinking turning the 140mm rad so ports are on top, then adding res right before it goes back into the swiftech h220x?

any other tips/options?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> where should i mount the res in the loop? ( its not connected up yet just in the there for reference)
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150724_211547_zpsetvmbxye.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150724_211558_zpsz77pyo08.jpg.html
> 
> i was thinking turning the 140mm rad so ports are on top, then adding res right before it goes back into the swiftech h220x?
> 
> any other tips/options?


Having the rad with the ports up top will help with bleeding air out as the air pockets won't get trapped.


----------



## duckyboy

Hi everyone ! I was just wondering if anyone can tell me if it is okay to have my cpu block plugged in this way. the Tubes are criss crossed and I had to apply some force to get it to fit like that. Would it eventually rip out of my sockets? or is there suppose to be a bit of tension mounting it like this ?(tension from the tubes)

Like this was the only way I could get the symbol to be upright .


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Hi everyone ! I was just wondering if anyone can tell me if it is okay to have my cpu block plugged in this way. the Tubes are criss crossed and I had to apply some force to get it to fit like that. Would it eventually rip out of my sockets? or is there suppose to be a bit of tension mounting it like this ?(tension from the tubes)
> 
> Like this was the only way I could get the symbol to be upright .


I noticed a lot of people would install the CPU block and the tubes get crossed. I have no idea why, never bothered to say anything about it. But since you asked...

You *DO REALIZE* that you can remove the logo plate and just *FLIP IT* upside down, *RIGHT*?


----------



## duckyboy

That's true, But I like the look of this better. I was just wondering If this would be for the AIO ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> I noticed a lot of people would install the CPU block and the tubes get crossed. I have no idea why, never bothered to say anything about it. But since you asked...
> 
> You *DO REALIZE* that you can remove the logo plate and just *FLIP IT* upside down, *RIGHT*?


I installed mine crossed the first time on purpose so that in the small case I had the tubes took less space...now that it's front mounted in this larger case I'm not overly concerned with whether they are crossed or not


----------



## b4db0y

Hi guys, I need some advice on bleeding my loop. I expanded the kit with a GPU block and a RX240 V3 but I am having issues with the air bubbles in loop. I have my system on its back and I have the fill port connected to a line which I use to fill the liquid in to the radiator/pump/reservoir unit. My other loop which had a proper reservoir would bleed out the air overnight but this loop seems to still have a lot of air in there.

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Hi guys, I need some advice on bleeding my loop. I expanded the kit with a GPU block and a RX240 V3 but I am having issues with the air bubbles in loop. I have my system on its back and I have the fill port connected to a line which I use to fill the liquid in to the radiator/pump/reservoir unit. My other loop which had a proper reservoir would bleed out the air overnight but this loop seems to still have a lot of air in there.
> 
> Thanks


you may need to move it all different ways with the pump running because air that is truly trapped won't move without coaxing...leaving it in one position gives it no incentive to move...I always disconnect everything but psu and pump and rock the case side to side alway to its sideways limits a few times then on front and back the same way then bring it to the edge and go past 90 degreees to almost upside down on both sides then let it run a bit then tip off and repeat until there's no noticeable air bubbles...there still is usually a little air still left but that will work itself out within a week usually...it can be very frustrating bleeding h2xx kits without a secondary reservoir it just takes patience...the air needs to be coaxed into the fill tube to allow you to top it off easily it's even harder if you do it like I was at first and just use the fill port on the h220x with no fitting or tube for the air to enter...

Also I forgot to mention/remind you to plug the fill tube or make sure it's always upright so you don't spill...I didn't mention it because it seems obvious but decided you never know..


----------



## benbenkr

Yeah, it's an ass bleeding the H2xx. But it's definitely doable and not very difficult, patience is key.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Yeah, it's an ass bleeding the H2xx. But it's definitely doable and not very difficult, patience is key.


the hardest part I've found with any orientation is the last little air bubbles that go back into the return hose rather than the fillport...my god that's annoying...spend 20 minutes to fill in 1/4 ounce of fluid...but dont need that floating around getting into the pump or a block so you do what you must


----------



## vartok

few updates since my last temp post. Im now running windows 10 (doubt that makes any difference). Yesterday i got a shipment in from newegg. 16GB of g.skill sniper ram and a new antec 80mm spot cool fan. Installed them when i got home from class but i ws really too tired to use the gelid extreme that came in too. This morning on my way out the door i started prime and let it run. After 11hrs of prime, the CPU temp was 51c and the VRM temps were 49c and 54c (i have the fan pointed at the top of the VRM row, top section of the heat pipe)

I would have made a screen of the temps, but for some reason with prime running, i couldnt take one or open the start menu to use the snipping tool. seeing that temp after adding the fan, i may or may not be changing out thermal paste. depends on how overclocking goes.


----------



## Subayai

I'm baffled. I got a h220x to prolong my x58 (now with two busted capacitors!







) life with a xeon x5650. I put a light oc (180x22) and here are the results:










What has me confused are the minimums - my ambient temps are 26C, and I let it sit about 40 minutes un-overclocked and they barely budged. So I'm not sure if its a miracle worker, a bad paste job or two bad temperature sensors.


----------



## b4db0y

Still trying to bleed this loop :-( . I moved my case back/front/tilt/laid on both sides to get air moving. It's much improved there's not doubt about that but there's still air bubbles in the reservoir I can see. The weird thing is when I stop the pump the air goes through the the full port into my tube connected for bleeding but when I turn the pump on air bubbles get pulled through the bleed tube back into the reservoir.

Edit good thing is no leaks at all. Pretty much leak tested for 24 hours at this point lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Still trying to bleed this loop :-( . I moved my case back/front/tilt/laid on both sides to get air moving. It's much improved there's not doubt about that but there's still air bubbles in the reservoir I can see. The weird thing is when I stop the pump the air goes through the the full port into my tube connected for bleeding but when I turn the pump on air bubbles get pulled through the bleed tube back into the reservoir.
> 
> Edit good thing is no leaks at all. Pretty much leak tested for 24 hours at this point lol


the fill tube should be fairly full if not it will suck the air back in as soon as the pressure builds (almost immediately)..I would fill until about 1/3 off your fill tube is full and see what happens...


----------



## v1ral

Hello, since you guys are talking about filling and bleeding and such I have a few questions.
Is the fillport G1/4 thread? I plan on replacing all the fittings and integrate a fillport fitting to my case to fill the cooler.

Plan:
Replace ALL fittings with Swiftech Black compressions.
Pump/Radiator get a x2 90degree and x2 Compressions
Put a fitting on the fillport*if the thread is in fact g1/4 thread and attach a tube to it then have that run to a fillport fitting on the top of my Air 540.

With this plan I SHOULD have room to mount a 360 radiator with enough space to be able to fill the pump/res/Radiator, would this set-up be ideal for bleeding/filling?
I do not plan on getting a seperate Res, the extra few inches of tubing would act as a Res of sorts.

Thoughts?

Edit:
Forgot to add, with my lengthy GPU I have a handful of 360 Radiator options at my disposal but in the end I will get a Black Ice GTS*the newer ones*.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Hello, since you guys are talking about filling and bleeding and such I have a few questions.
> Is the fillport G1/4 thread? I plan on replacing all the fittings and integrate a fillport fitting to my case to fill the cooler.
> 
> Plan:
> Replace ALL fittings with Swiftech Black compressions.
> Pump/Radiator get a x2 90degree and x2 Compressions
> Put a fitting on the fillport*if the thread is in fact g1/4 thread and attach a tube to it then have that run to a fillport fitting on the top of my Air 540.
> 
> With this plan I SHOULD have room to mount a 360 radiator with enough space to be able to fill the pump/res/Radiator, would this set-up be ideal for bleeding/filling?
> I do not plan on getting a seperate Res, the extra few inches of tubing would act as a Res of sorts.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Edit:
> Forgot to add, with my lengthy GPU I have a handful of 360 Radiator options at my disposal but in the end I will get a Black Ice GTS*the newer ones*.


just be aware that black ice radiators tend to be extremely high FPI density, and is a requirement to run fans at higher rpms when using those radiators.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> just be aware that black ice radiators tend to be extremely high FPI density, and is a requirement to run fans at higher rpms when using those radiators.


So you think I'd need higher speed fans for a GTS radiator?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> So you think I'd need higher speed fans for a GTS radiator?


The Nemesis GTS is 16 fpi, not all that high, and it performs _exceptionally_ well with low rpm fans - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Nemesis GTS is 16 fpi, not all that high, and it performs _exceptionally_ well with low rpm fans - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


According to that chart it looks like the EK XE is the best all around performer.


----------



## b4db0y

So I bled my system for 36 hours and all the air bubbles cleared up and I thought that the air was out but once I setup my system and put wires in and turned it on I started hearing gurgling from the pump. I think have some air bubbles stuck in the pump :-/. Any advice? If I shut my computer down and turn it on the gurgling goes away but it eventually comes back in like 5 minutes.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> So I bled my system for 36 hours and all the air bubbles cleared up and I thought that the air was out but once I setup my system and put wires in and turned it on I started hearing gurgling from the pump. I think have some air bubbles stuck in the pump :-/. Any advice? If I shut my computer down and turn it on the gurgling goes away but it eventually comes back in like 5 minutes.


Like many has said, it's very difficult to bleed the H2xx kit entirely. Not within 24, heck... even 48 hours. If it's just a little bit of air (which I think it is in your loop), then just use your PC as normal. The air will settle out soon enough.

It took me like nearly a week+ of usage before there were no more air in the res. No problems with temps of course and since the pump isn't running dry, it isn't killing it either. Heck, I saw no temps improvement after the air settled out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> According to that chart it looks like the EK XE is the best all around performer.


Yes, but it is also a 60mm thick radiator, while the poster posing the question is looking at 30mm. I'm also kind of hesitant to jump on that bandwagon. EK's rads haven't been great in the past, and the XE's smaller sibling, the SE, isn't very good. Hopefully they are actually all they seem, because they are really nice looking pieces.


----------



## springs113

I'm currently running with a nemesis gtx 360, A/C ut60 360 and was thinking about purchasing another rad. After reading that whole review I think I'm leading to purchase that EK XE over my current rads. I've got a black and white theme going so I may end up going with the UT 60 but I think performance pcs got a white nemesis gtx.


----------



## b4db0y

Wow, now that the gurgling has stopped this pump is so quiet. My computer is dead silent even under load....I'm really surprised by this because my last pump was a DDC and that thing whined like crazy.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

yeah they arent too shabby


----------



## TomHan

Hello there, first post. I have an issue with h220-x, and it seems like the right place to look for advices.

I bought it 8 months ago and while not blown away by it I didnt have any problem with it, except for a rattling noise at high RPM, and from time to time even at medium RPM.

Now, 3 days ago I heard a new sound and though the reservoir broke and the liquid was leaking. Thankfully that wasnt the case but there was still that sound, like water swirling if it makes sense.

To be clear, right now, if I go above 60% RPM, I'll have 3 different noises, humming, rattling and swirling.
At 35-60% RPM, rattling and swirling can happen.
So far nothing has happened below 35% (almost perfectly silent).

After the swirling noise happened for the first time I checked the reservoir and noticed a lot of bubbles, and I dont remember seeing them when I installed my h220-x.

So, has my situation already been addressed in this thread ? I searched before posting but it is a massive thread so I could have missed it.
If not, do you think that noise spells bad things to come ? or what would you recommand in order to fix it ?

Thank you for your help.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomHan*
> 
> Hello there, first post. I have an issue with h220-x, and it seems like the right place to look for advices.
> 
> I bought it 8 months ago and while not blown away by it I didnt have any problem with it, except for a rattling noise at high RPM, and from time to time even at medium RPM.
> 
> Now, 3 days ago I heard a new sound and though the reservoir broke and the liquid was leaking. Thankfully that wasnt the case but there was still that sound, like water swirling if it makes sense.
> 
> To be clear, right now, if I go above 60% RPM, I'll have 3 different noises, humming, rattling and swirling.
> At 35-60% RPM, rattling and swirling can happen.
> So far nothing has happened below 35% (almost perfectly silent).
> 
> After the swirling noise happened for the first time I checked the reservoir and noticed a lot of bubbles, and I dont remember seeing them when I installed my h220-x.
> 
> So, has my situation already been addressed in this thread ? I searched before posting but it is a massive thread so I could have missed it.
> If not, do you think that noise spells bad things to come ? or what would you recommand in order to fix it ?
> 
> Thank you for your help.


It sounds like your fluid could use a top off. Just use some distilled water to completely fill the system.


----------



## TomHan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It sounds like your fluid could use a top off. Just use some distilled water to completely fill the system.


Thx for the answer. I'll give it a try even if the fluid level did not go below the 'MAX' mark on the reservoir.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It sounds like your fluid could use a top off. Just use some distilled water to completely fill the system.


if you top it off and it still has the "running water" sound you may have micro bubbles trapped in the pump... i think bram had posted a guide to removing air from the loop







imo you should fill it up until theres nothing but water.. 0 air inside...i do this to my secondary res as well...


----------



## v1ral

Can I plug my pump differently say full 12volts? I want to JUST monitor fan speeds or is it advisable to be plugged into the splitter?
When I expand i want to leave pump speeds at say 75-100% depending on noise at all times, ive read that its best to have it plugged into the splitter at all times.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Can I plug my pump differently say full 12volts? I want to JUST monitor fan speeds or is it advisable to be plugged into the splitter?
> When I expand i want to leave pump speeds at say 75-100% depending on noise at all times, ive read that its best to have it plugged into the splitter at all times.


Your pump should be plugged into constant 12V already. If you are somehow undervolting it in an attempt to control the speeds, it is not designed for that and will damage the pump.

If you only want to monitor fan speeds, not the pump speed, simply plug one of your fans into connection 1 of the PWM splitter instead of the pump. The splitter only gives speed feedback from connection 1.

When you expand, if you wish to have the pump at 100% constantly, simply unplug the PWM (4-pin fan) cable that is coming out of the pump. If the pump receives no PWM signal it will run at full speed.


----------



## v1ral

Can i run my pump seperately from the fan splitter to monitor JUST fan speeds, ill leave the pump at 12volts, or is it advisable to have it all plugged i to the splitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your pump should be plugged into constant 12V already. If you are somehow undervolting it in an attempt to control the speeds, it is not designed for that and will damage the pump.
> 
> If you only want to monitor fan speeds, not the pump speed, simply plug one of your fans into connection 1 of the PWM splitter instead of the pump. The splitter only gives speed feedback from connection 1.
> 
> When you expand, if you wish to have the pump at 100% constantly, simply unplug the PWM (4-pin fan) cable that is coming out of the pump. If the pump receives no PWM signal it will run at full speed.


So even though the pump is plugged into the red slot it would be running max RPMs, even though in the OS it fluctuates?
Which ever slot the plugged into it'll be running max RPMs??
So if i switch the plugs around, out a fan in the red slot and move the pump to a different slot, itll just monitor what ever is plugged into the red slot?

With that said, when using HWMonitor i see the rpms fluctuate from 12xx-3xxx RPMs while temps vary, which clearly isnt "fan" RPMs, i will try to put my 6 helix fans plugged 1-6 with the pump on 7 THEN with without the sensor wire plugged when i get home.

Thanks for the info +rep


----------



## TomHan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It sounds like your fluid could use a top off. Just use some distilled water to completely fill the system.


Quick update, I topped off the fluid and so far I have not experienced that water sound.
So far so good.

But, when I opened the reservoir I saw what looks like rust inside ;

and when I added some liquid, some deposit went to the surface :


Granted it is the first time that I look inside and I don't know what it is supposed to look like, that doesnt seem OK.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Can i run my pump seperately from the fan splitter to monitor JUST fan speeds, ill leave the pump at 12volts, or is it advisable to have it all plugged i to the splitter.
> So even though the pump is plugged into the red slot it would be running max RPMs, even though in the OS it fluctuates?
> Which ever slot the plugged into it'll be running max RPMs??
> So if i switch the plugs around, out a fan in the red slot and move the pump to a different slot, itll just monitor what ever is plugged into the red slot?
> 
> With that said, when using HWMonitor i see the rpms fluctuate from 12xx-3xxx RPMs while temps vary, which clearly isnt "fan" RPMs, i will try to put my 6 helix fans plugged 1-6 with the pump on 7 THEN with without the sensor wire plugged when i get home.
> 
> Thanks for the info +rep


You were never specific on which cooler you have. It differs between the older H220/240L, newer H220/240L and H220-X/H240-X.

If you have a model where the pump has a separate SATA or molex for power, simply unplug the PWM (4-pin fan) cable from the pump to the splitter and the pump will run at 100%. Obviously the power SATA/molex must stay connected.

If you have an older model that has ONLY the 4-pin fan connector for both power and PWM signal, you can purchase a 4-pin to SATA or molex adapter and plug the pump straight to your PSU. While plugging it into a fan header on your MB may be tempting, it is _not_ recommended.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You were never specific on which cooler you have. It differs between the older H220/240L, newer H220/240L and H220-X/H240-X.
> 
> If you have a model where the pump has a separate SATA or molex for power, simply unplug the PWM (4-pin fan) cable from the pump to the splitter and the pump will run at 100%. Obviously the power SATA/molex must stay connected.
> 
> If you have an older model that has ONLY the 4-pin fan connector for both power and PWM signal, you can purchase a 4-pin to SATA or molex adapter and plug the pump straight to your PSU. While plugging it into a fan header on your MB may be tempting, it is _not_ recommended.


Sorry..
I have an H220X with the pump plug attached to the pump, not the removable pump plug.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Sorry..
> I have an H220X with the pump plug attached to the pump, not the removable pump plug.


Ok, then simply unplug the PWM cable from the splitter and the pump will run at 100% continuously.


----------



## v1ral

Are there any videos/tutorials for upgrading the pump in the H220x?
Or is it only possible to ADD a pump?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomHan*
> 
> Quick update, I topped off the fluid and so far I have not experienced that water sound.
> So far so good.
> 
> But, when I opened the reservoir I saw what looks like rust inside ;
> 
> and when I added some liquid, some deposit went to the surface :
> 
> 
> Granted it is the first time that I look inside and I don't know what it is supposed to look like, that doesnt seem OK.


Copper doesn't rust. It will become tarnished over time though. This has no impact on performance. The small particles look like they could be from the small amount of dye that's used in the coolant. It looks yellow to brownish when it settles. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Are there any videos/tutorials for upgrading the pump in the H220x?
> Or is it only possible to ADD a pump?


I'm not aware of any videos. You can upgrade to an MCP50X using the housing in the H220-X, but unless you have an especially large loop there would be very little or no performance difference.


----------



## TomHan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Copper doesn't rust. It will become tarnished over time though. This has no impact on performance. The small particles look like they could be from the small amount of dye that's used in the coolant. It looks yellow to brownish when it settles. I hope this answers your questions.


Thank you for the explanations, I didnt know copper was also used inside the reservoir.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomHan*
> 
> Thank you for the explanations, I didnt know copper was also used inside the reservoir.


When you pull the fill port cap off, you're looking directly into the radiator which feeds into the reservoir.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomHan*


These two pictures might help some of those people who are having issues fully bleeding all of the air out. When I had some air trapped, I ended up having to hold the unit in the position shown in the pictures. Slightly adjusting the angle you are holding it will bring the air pocket to the fill port and you will just need to top it off. After topping off, I ran the unit briefly and then repeated the process just to make sure I had gotten it all.

This has worked both times I've filled my loop and got the job done quickly.


----------



## tbone8ty

finished my loop

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150804_201535_zps0cpyzaik.jpg.html


----------



## NIK1

Has any body ever tried Coollaboratory Liquid Coolant..Wonder if its ok to use in a 240x.

The innovation of coolant for the use in water coolings of High-End PC systems! If it was recently only possible with few transparent coolants to protect the own water cooling efficiently, offers Coollaboratory with the new coolant a genuine innovation.

coolantpro_1_01.jpg 57k .jpg file


Coollaboratory succeeded it with the new product to unite the different advantages on the market available coolants in one product. The Coolant ensures an uncompromising long-term protection against corrosion for all blocked components.

In contrast to other products not only when using copper and aluminum, but expressly also when using the mentioned and other metals in the mixing process. Like that it is no matter, whether the contact areas of the radiators are made of copper, aluminum, brass, nickel or steel, the corrosion protection is completely developed and extremely long-term stable within shortest time. The coolant can be used problem-free over at least 24 months in the water cooling, whereas particularly inserted and co-ordinate inhibitors provide a perfect protection.

Note: For a long-term use of the water cooling in connection with the Coollaboratory Liquid Coolant Pro is the use of PUR hoses misadvised. Due to its composition and high susceptibility, PUR hoses are not suitable opposite ethyl glycol and other chemicals. Recommendable are PE, PA, PTFE and PVC hoses, in particular can we recommend the hoses of the company innovatek OS GmbH (innovatek special hose - UV/PVC). These show also after very long service life no softening or dissolution features and are besides very flexibly applicable.

Coollaboratory Liquid Coolant Pro is available as finished mixture and concentrate. The finished mixture contains 1000ml and is sufficient on average for one or two fillings of internally blocked water cooling. The concentrate with a content of 100ml have to be mixed at a ratio of 1:9 with distilled water and produced so the same performance and long-term effect as the finished mixture with 1000ml.

Why is a corrosion protection needed?

The water in the cooling gets into contact with different metals like for example copper and aluminum. If different metals in presence of an electrolyte (water) touch themselves, due to the different positions of the metals in the electro-chemical electromotive series, it gets round to flowing electric current. It forms a galvanic element, which destroys the more base metal. The occurred corrosion leads by-and-by to deposits, which can block the water cooling system inclusive radiators and pump and in last consequence it can lead to its breakdown and to the damage of the cooling and the computer.

By the use of the Coollaboratory Liquid Coolant Pro this effect is prevented, as an extremely thin and durable protective layer is formed on the metals, which are in the cooling circuit. The electro-chemical corrosion is reduced within two hours by approx. 90% and within a day by more than 99%. After approximately two days no more measurable electro-chemical corrosion occurs and the water cooling is optimally protected.


----------



## narutoninjakid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your pump should be plugged into constant 12V already. If you are somehow undervolting it in an attempt to control the speeds, it is not designed for that and will damage the pump.
> 
> If you only want to monitor fan speeds, not the pump speed, simply plug one of your fans into connection 1 of the PWM splitter instead of the pump. The splitter only gives speed feedback from connection 1.
> 
> When you expand, if you wish to have the pump at 100% constantly, simply unplug the PWM (4-pin fan) cable that is coming out of the pump. If the pump receives no PWM signal it will run at full speed.


I have the newer model as well and I plugged in the pump into the PWM splitter. I previously had the H100i GTX and was told numerous time to not plug in pumps into the motherboard. Instead to plug them into your power supply. I already have a Molex to 4 pin splitter that I was using can I plug the pump into that to be on the safe side? Would rather have the pump run of the PSU than the motherboard. I would still plug the fans into the PWM splitter so I can control them via the motherboard. I also plugged in the 3 pin led into a chassis fan motherboard header on my motherboard and notice it pulses so I'm thinking the voltage is changing for it slightly so who knows if the voltage is changing on the cpu header as well. I have an ASUS X99 Deluxe/USB 3.1 motherboard by the way.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *narutoninjakid*
> 
> I have the newer model as well and I plugged in the pump into the PWM splitter. I previously had the H100i GTX and was told numerous time to not plug in pumps into the motherboard. Instead to plug them into your power supply. I already have a Molex to 4 pin splitter that I was using can I plug the pump into that to be on the safe side? Would rather have the pump run of the PSU than the motherboard. I would still plug the fans into the PWM splitter so I can control them via the motherboard. I also plugged in the 3 pin led into a chassis fan motherboard header on my motherboard and notice it pulses so I'm thinking the voltage is changing for it slightly so who knows if the voltage is changing on the cpu header as well. I have an ASUS X99 Deluxe/USB 3.1 motherboard by the way.


If you have an H220-X/240-X, the pump has a SATA connector that you connect directly to the PSU to power it. The 4-pin is only for the PWM signal and does not draw any power, so plugging it into the splitter is correct.

Your LED is pulsing due to being hooked to a header set for voltage regulation. On the X99 Deluxe you simply need to go into the BIOS and change that fan header to PWM mode, and that will provide a constant 12V to the LED. You could also simply use that molex splitter on the LED if you wanted to.

And, yeah, never plug an Asetek pump into your MB, always plug it into the PSU. I can't even begin to tell you how many comments I had to answer on that when I stated it in the installation video accompanying the HTL review of that unit. Those pumps have a bad tendency of spiking the draw on startup, which will kill your MB header. And when they go bad, they tend to dead short....which also kills your MB header. Your PSU is equipped to deal with those scenarios, your MB isn't.


----------



## narutoninjakid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you have an H220-X/240-X, the pump has a SATA connector that you connect directly to the PSU to power it. The 4-pin is only for the PWM signal and does not draw any power, so plugging it into the splitter is correct.
> 
> Your LED is pulsing due to being hooked to a header set for voltage regulation. On the X99 Deluxe you simply need to go into the BIOS and change that fan header to PWM mode, and that will provide a constant 12V to the LED. You could also simply use that molex splitter on the LED if you wanted to.
> 
> And, yeah, never plug an Asetek pump into your MB, always plug it into the PSU. I can't even begin to tell you how many comments I had to answer on that when I stated it in the installation video accompanying the HTL review of that unit. Those pumps have a bad tendency of spiking the draw on startup, which will kill your MB header. And when they go bad, they tend to dead short....which also kills your MB header. Your PSU is equipped to deal with those scenarios, your MB isn't.


Thanks that really helps. Not sure why corsair has a premium product and then uses Asetek for their pump. Will test out unplugging the device from the splitter and see how loud the system is. I assume that means I will be getting maximum cooling capacity? I'm wondering if there is software to control the voltage coming out of the header while the system is booted.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *narutoninjakid*
> 
> Thanks that really helps. Not sure why corsair has a premium product and then uses Asetek for their pump. Will test out unplugging the device from the splitter and see how loud the system is. I assume that means I will be getting maximum cooling capacity? I'm wondering if there is software to control the voltage coming out of the header while the system is booted.


due to asetek and coolit allowing for lower priced units to maximize margin on their behalf. Price is also a deterrent for some poeple. Some people dont buy the h220x simply due to its price.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *narutoninjakid*
> 
> Thanks that really helps. Not sure why corsair has a premium product and then uses Asetek for their pump. Will test out unplugging the device from the splitter and see how loud the system is. I assume that means I will be getting maximum cooling capacity? I'm wondering if there is software to control the voltage coming out of the header while the system is booted.


I have not seen this premium cooling product by Corsair.....premium _priced_ products from Corsair, sure......









Well....hate to be the bearer of bad news....but Corsair uses Asetek for the whole unit - pump, rad, block, tubes, etc. The only Corsair piece in the box is the fans (and isn't that vacuum cleaner-like tone a joy?).

In the current Corsair lineup the GTX models are made by Corsair, GT is made by CoolIt. So, it seriously becomes a choice of the lesser of two evils. Personally, if I wasn't doing a custom loop (or H220-X/240-X) I would be using air - and do in my second rig while ~15 CLCs sit in my closet. Top tier air cooling is far closer to a custom loop than any CLC. It would actually be difficult to find something _less_ like a custom loop than the current crop of CLCs....


----------



## Refugee47

Is there any guides online for changing the tubing and refilling coolant on the h220 x ? For it being one of the best coolers of its time there sure is a shortage of videos and guides on this thing . There's like 2 videos involving this cooler on YouTube.


----------



## dikkiedirk

What is the preferred position of a 280 rad in front of a case? Connectors up or down in the case? Should the fans be on the inside of the case or near the outside?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Refugee47*
> 
> Is there any guides online for changing the tubing and refilling coolant on the h220 x ? For it being one of the best coolers of its time there sure is a shortage of videos and guides on this thing . There's like 2 videos involving this cooler on YouTube.


Please PM me and I can assist you with this.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> What is the preferred position of a 280 rad in front of a case? Connectors up or down in the case? Should the fans be on the inside of the case or near the outside?


ports up if possible...as far as fans it's more of aesthetics there will be only a couple degree difference I in worst case scenario


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I have a huge problem with those results. It just isn't conceivable that our older Apogee HD would be able to outperform our XL. That's not consistent with any of our own results and I just don't see how that's possible. I'm not knocking the EVO, I'm just saying that those results just don't make a lot of sense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Something must be wrong here.
> Other reviews, ie at HiTech Legion, show the Apogee XL having a better performance than the Supremacy, withing .5 degrees. Perhaps the Supremacy EVO might be better still, but withing 1 degree I think.
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40559-swiftech-apogee-xl-cpu-block-review?showall=&start=2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> I had a hard time believing it too, but i took as a valid result as i have seen countless of review saying the Apogee XL is a very restrictive cpu block, but cooling performance could come down to being bad thermal paste, but i don't know.
> 
> I where using all EK parts for my loop besides the H220-X combo unit, so i thought i would get a matching EK cpu block.
> 
> Hmm some of the reviewers could have been using the thermal paste that came with the blocks, as the Swiftech come with what was it, TinMate paste and the EK Supremacy comes with Gelid Extreme thermal paste thats one, if not the best thermal paste on the marked, so i think this could be the weak link, so it could have been set up against the EK who had an unfair advantage, but reviewers only test what is inside the box


So, I can't go into too much detail until the article is published, but.....just finished benchmarking and on the H220-X, 4770K @ 4.6 GHz, the difference in five averaged mountings each was 1.4 degrees in favor of the EVO. However, and this is odd, the EVO also had higher max temps by ~3 degrees on every mounting before settling down. Definitely not worth spending any money on swapping them.


----------



## Streetdragon

hi
i have a "problem". I have a H240-X and i can see in the window some "flakes" in the water. Like glitter ore something. I think it isb ecause of the Shing ond pipes i have.
Now i wanna replace them in the future with some other and add a 140 rad.(the 240-X cant handle my 8350 @4,8Ghz)
I need a bit help to create a list of items i need to buy! Tubing etc! and i dont know if i need a reservoir... Need everything. Have only the 240-X! thx for help









edit. Forgot to say: I can hear some noise from the pump at 50%speed and higher! Maybe some air or just the tubing stuff. dont know

second edit: can someone link me some Videos of how i can clean the CPU-Block and the H240-x?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Having a similar issue, my liquid looks really cloudy.
Also between 2000 and 2300rpm my pump makes a rattle sound badly.
At full speed or 1700rpm and under there is no rattle. (full speed of course you can hear the pump hum, but it's much quieter than 2000 - 2300rpm)

Here's the pump noise:





http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20150807_191106_zpstxlsmfoe.jpg.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Having a similar issue, my liquid looks really cloudy.
> Also between 2000 and 2300rpm my pump makes a rattle sound badly.
> At full speed or 1700rpm and under there is no rattle. (full speed of course you can hear the pump hum, but it's much quieter than 2000 - 2300rpm)
> 
> Here's the pump noise:


How long has it been installed? That looks like the aeration typically associated with the bleeding process.

It was hard to tell anything as far as noise from that video, but what you are describing is usually a resonant frequency that the case transmits (my D5 does it at 2200-2500 in my current case, did it at 1800-2000 in my last case). Easiest way to check is to see if it still makes that noise if you detach it from the case.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How long has it been installed? That looks like the aeration typically associated with the bleeding process.
> 
> It was hard to tell anything as far as noise from that video, but what you are describing is usually a resonant frequency that the case transmits (my D5 does it at 2200-2500 in my current case, did it at 1800-2000 in my last case). Easiest way to check is to see if it still makes that noise if you detach it from the case.


It's been installed 4 hours so far.
Had the pump running at full speed to start with.

I've noticed the noise is getting worse, can hear it at lower RPM's now.
The case it's mounted in is a Enthoo Primo, has been good for noise until now, did have a H110 previously installed and that was dead silent.

I did just notice a 2cm wide air bubble at the top of the res, you have to look up above the max line.
I'll try taking it out and see if the noise is still there and if I can get rid of this air bubble.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Actually there is 2 decent sized air bubble in it.

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20150807_235456_zpsyyrtbw4x.jpg.html
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/schoolofmonkey2/media/20150807_235519_zpsdgpwbeow.jpg.html


----------



## EarlZ

You probably have more bubbles still trapped. Although Id expect for the price point there shouldnt be any or at least extremely minimal.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> You probably have more bubbles still trapped. Although Id expect for the price point there shouldnt be any or at least extremely minimal.


perhaps but at least it isn't a sealed unit that would have to be rma'd or void warranty to fix...(looking at you corsair)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> It's been installed 4 hours so far.
> Had the pump running at full speed to start with.
> 
> I've noticed the noise is getting worse, can hear it at lower RPM's now.
> The case it's mounted in is a Enthoo Primo, has been good for noise until now, did have a H110 previously installed and that was dead silent.
> 
> I did just notice a 2cm wide air bubble at the top of the res, you have to look up above the max line.
> I'll try taking it out and see if the noise is still there and if I can get rid of this air bubble.


You should expect the aeration that causes the cloudiness for the first day or so of usage. This is normal in any open loop.

My Primo had the same issue with the D5, no case is immune to it. You can isolate the unit with vibration dampers and it will help considerably. Your Corsair didn't do it since the pump wasn't mounted to the case, it was mounted to the MB....and, of course, because it doesn't move enough liquid to vibrate much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> You probably have more bubbles still trapped. Although Id expect for the price point there shouldnt be any or at least extremely minimal.


How does pricing affect the laws of physics that causes air to rise to the highest point of the loop during shipping? Is this a serious comment, or tongue in cheek?


----------



## Cyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Refugee47*
> 
> Is there any guides online for changing the tubing and refilling coolant on the h220 x ? For it being one of the best coolers of its time there sure is a shortage of videos and guides on this thing . There's like 2 videos involving this cooler on YouTube.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Please PM me and I can assist you with this.


If you have a guide on this, can I get one as well?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyn*
> 
> If you have a guide on this, can I get one as well?


Yes, please PM me and I'll send it to you.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My Primo had the same issue with the D5, no case is immune to it. You can isolate the unit with vibration dampers and it will help considerably. Your Corsair didn't do it since the pump wasn't mounted to the case, it was mounted to the MB....and, of course, because it doesn't move enough liquid to vibrate much.
> How does pricing affect the laws of physics that causes air to rise to the highest point of the loop during shipping? Is this a serious comment, or tongue in cheek?


Instead of mounting the H240-x to the case and the fans on the other side I'll put the fans in between and try that.
I'm using Noctua's so they have the rubber dampeners anyway.

Just got up so I'll do that today, was too late last night.

Shame a week worth of Googling and research turned up any indication of this though before buying.


----------



## v1ral

Quick question.
When you change fittings on the pump side, are 90° fittings used? Would they have have enough clearance?
Thanks!!


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Thanks to @ciarlatano for trying to help.
Pump made the biggest clunk, then I smelt a burning plastic smell, now nothing from the pump at all.

RMA/DOA time it seems, more postage costs yay.


----------



## dikkiedirk

I got me a MCR140-X drive and want to use it with an EK Supremacy MX. What is regarding cooling performance the best mount position for the CPU block? Normal or rotated 90 degrees CW or CCW?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I got me a MCR140-X drive and want to use it with an EK Supremacy MX. What is regarding cooling performance the best mount position for the CPU block? Normal or rotated 90 degrees CW or CCW?


Why would you not simply mount it the way that the manufacturer designed it to be mounted?

There is usually very little difference between proper and goofy mounts, typically only a degree or two at most.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Why would you not simply mount it the way that the manufacturer designed it to be mounted?
> 
> There is usually very little difference between proper and goofy mounts, typically only a degree or two at most.


I know, just nitpicking. But that's me







. Just wanted to know if there is a difference and what is the best.


----------



## Wam7

Any idea where the best place is to get a Swiftech H240-X in the U.K?


----------



## Jimbags

Going to add my GTX 770 to my H220 Loop. My cpu is a dellided i5 [email protected] 4.7Ghz-1.257V. Do you guys think the single 240mm rad will cope well enough?
TIA


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Going to add my GTX 770 to my H220 Loop. My cpu is a dellided i5 [email protected] 4.7Ghz-1.257V. Do you guys think the single 240mm rad will cope well enough?
> TIA


don't think your temps will be ideal...another 120 rad at least it's what I would suggest...General rule is at least 120 for each component then an extra 120


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Going to add my GTX 770 to my H220 Loop. My cpu is a dellided i5 [email protected] 4.7Ghz-1.257V. Do you guys think the single 240mm rad will cope well enough?
> TIA


An extra 140 would be ideal at low 50s or so. 240 if you want the temps under 50s.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> An extra 140 would be ideal at low 50s or so. 240 if you want the temps under 50s.


I totally agree that a 140mm would be the ideal choice. Being predictive of the temps without knowing all of the facts is a bit like throwing darts blindfolded, though.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quick question.
> When you change fittings on the pump side, are 90° fittings used? Would they have have enough clearance?
> Thanks!!


Any thoughts on this...
I am about to buy fittings and I don't want to buy extra fittings that I don't need to.
It seems that 90 degree fitting would be the proper fit with completely changing fitting set-up.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Any idea where the best place is to get a Swiftech H240-X in the U.K?


Don't think you will find it anywhere in Europe until October November 2015. Maybe ebay, but I doubt it.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Going to add my GTX 770 to my H220 Loop. My cpu is a dellided i5 [email protected] 4.7Ghz-1.257V. Do you guys think the single 240mm rad will cope well enough?
> TIA


when i used my 7970, the h220 240 rad and a 120 rad cooled down the gpu and processor with good temperatures. I doubt the 770 reaching higher temperatures compared to a 7970. THOUGH I was using a very non restrictive universal block, so YMMV if using a full cover.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Don't think you will find it anywhere in Europe until October November 2015. Maybe ebay, but I doubt it.


I've found somewhere in Holland that ships to the UK for a good price so if anybody else asks point them to http://www.highflow.nl.
Now I have to decide whether to get the H220X or H240X as there's not much difference in price. Reason I want to swap out the H100i is I want something a little quieter as well as cooler. The 220X seems to be a bit quieter (a couple dB in it) but the H240X seems to cool a couple degrees better.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've found somewhere in Holland that ships to the UK for a good price so if anybody else asks point them to http://www.highflow.nl.
> Now I have to decide whether to get the H220X or H240X as there's not much difference in price. Reason I want to swap out the H100i is I want something a little quieter as well as cooler. The 220X seems to be a bit quieter (a couple dB in it) but the H240X seems to cool a couple degrees better.


It's a _lot_ more than a couple of dB under load.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've found somewhere in Holland that ships to the UK for a good price so if anybody else asks point them to http://www.highflow.nl.
> Now I have to decide whether to get the H220X or H240X as there's not much difference in price. Reason I want to swap out the H100i is I want something a little quieter as well as cooler. The 220X seems to be a bit quieter (a couple dB in it) but the H240X seems to cool a couple degrees better.


I live in Netherlands and they have the h240X not stocked at the moment. I asked them and they told me October or November.

I ended up buying the MCR140-X from them and added fittings, tubing, 280 rad and CPU block to my liking. I wanted to swap CPU block and add a radiator anyhow.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's a _lot_ more than a couple of dB under load.


Cheers. According to these tests http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H240-X/7.html that's the amount, do you have any more empirical data to throw some more light on that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> I live in Netherlands and they have the h240X not stocked at the moment. I asked them and they told me October or November.
> 
> I ended up buying the MCR140-X from them and added fittings, tubing, 280 rad and CPU block to my liking. I wanted to swap CPU block and add a radiator anyhow.


OK I saw that though it does say normally stocked in 3-4 days. I guess not in this case. I will contact tomorrow to see if there is any update but I might be opting for the 220X if it is much quieter than the 240X at load. Though I'm a little surprised that 120mm fans are quieter than 140mm when both are at 1800rpm!?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Cheers. According to these tests http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H240-X/7.html that's the amount, do you have any more empirical data to throw some more light on that?


Well....there is this video at 9:36 - 




I have benched the H100i and H220-X together at least six times for HTL. The noise difference is far from minimal.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well....there is this video at 9:36 -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have benched the H100i and H220-X together at least six times for HTL. The noise difference is far from minimal.


Ah no, as I said my choice is between the 220x and 240x and it's a 2dB difference between them but the 240x cools 2 degrees more.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Ah no, as I said my choice is between the 220x and 240x and it's a 2dB difference between them but the 240x cools 2 degrees more.


Ah....my mistake. Your wording made me think that you were saying that the H220-X was a couple of dB quieter than the H100i (Reason I want to swap out the H100i is I want something a little quieter as well as cooler. The 220X seems to be a bit quieter (a couple dB in it) but the H240X seems to cool a couple degrees better.).


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Cheers. According to these tests http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H240-X/7.html that's the amount, do you have any more empirical data to throw some more light on that?
> OK I saw that though it does say normally stocked in 3-4 days. I guess not in this case. I will contact tomorrow to see if there is any update but I might be opting for the 220X if it is much quieter than the 240X at load. Though I'm a little surprised that 120mm fans are quieter than 140mm when both are at 1800rpm!?


They usually have them stocked, at least till 2 weeks ago. 2 weeks ago it already said 3-4 days, might 3-4 months in this case. I mailed them 2 weeks ago and was told then october november.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ah....my mistake. Your wording made me think that you were saying that the H220-X was a couple of dB quieter than the H100i (Reason I want to swap out the H100i is I want something a little quieter as well as cooler. The 220X seems to be a bit quieter (a couple dB in it) but the H240X seems to cool a couple degrees better.).


Yes, my wording would have misled you.








Any idea why the 240X is slightly louder than the 220X? If it was quieter I would have definitely gone for it but as it's not and there isn't much difference in temps then I might as well get the 220X (plus it's in stock). I don't plan on adding a GPU to the loop, plus the 220X might fit the HAF-X more easily.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Ah no, as I said my choice is between the 220x and 240x and it's a 2dB difference between them but the 240x cools 2 degrees more.


If you set both the 220x and 240x so they produce the same dB, the 240x will cool better, so if you have the space to accommodate the 240x, then the choice should be clear.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Yes, my wording would have misled you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea why the 240X is slightly louder than the 220X? If it was quieter I would have definitely gone for it but as it's not and there isn't much difference in temps then I might as well get the 220X (plus it's in stock). I don't plan on adding a GPU to the loop, plus the 220X might fit the HAF-X more easily.


The difference is very slight, only a couple of dB as you had said. Keep in mind that you need to factor in the radiator into the noise equation, and differences in fin shape and density will produce different sounds and levels of sound.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I totally agree that a 140mm would be the ideal choice. *Being predictive of the temps without knowing all of the facts is a bit like throwing darts blindfolded, though.*


Oh yes, yes, that's absolutely right.

Should have said I was basing the temps off of a 4670K + GTX780 I had before in a 240 + 240 setup.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I totally agree that a 140mm would be the ideal choice. Being predictive of the temps without knowing all of the facts is a bit like throwing darts blindfolded, though.


To paint a better picture ill be using the EK-FC770 GTX-GW Nickle+plexi waterblock on the gpu. Its in a Parvum S2.0 case with rad up top pulling air into the case. Also 2x 120mm fans pulling in cool air from front. Currently gaming my cpu sits around 50c, pump speed @45%. Stock rad fans @75%.. Gpu has been reaching 80c playing Shadows of Mordor, although somewhat cooler in others. Ambient temp is around 30 celsius. Oh gpu is Gainward phantom GTX 770.
Going to try single 240mm rad but will eventually grab another for yp front.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> If you set both the 220x and 240x so they produce the same dB, the 240x will cool better, so if you have the space to accommodate the 240x, then the choice should be clear.


From the tests I've seen I wouldn't quite agree with that, unless you have some empirical data. If you look here http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H240-X/6.html you will see that the 220x and 240x a couple times having the same load oc max temps. Both sets of fans have the same max RPM but if you check the Swiftech specifications the 140mm should be quieter at up to 28.8 dB/A compared to 33 dB/A of the 120mm on the h220X. Though all the actual tests I've seen show the h220X being quieter and sometimes equal in cooling performance to the h240x.


----------



## Methodical

I have the 220x. Can I plug the pump into my fan controller and control the pump myself? Are there any adverse affects doing this?

Also, I plan to add my 980Ti to the loop. Has anyone done this? If so, can you post a link or photo to your set up? I'd like to take a look at it. I have the HAF 932 case.

Thanks...Al


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I have the 220x. Can I plug the pump into my fan controller and control the pump myself? Are there any adverse affects doing this?
> 
> Also, I plan to add my 980Ti to the loop. Has anyone done this? If so, can you post a link or photo to your set up? I'd like to take a look at it. I have the HAF 932 case.
> 
> Thanks...Al


The only way that this would be possible is if your fan controller supports PWM control. Most don't though and only support voltage control. This won't work with this pump and it will just default to full speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I have the 220x. Can I plug the pump into my fan controller and control the pump myself? Are there any adverse affects doing this?
> 
> Also, I plan to add my 980Ti to the loop. Has anyone done this? If so, can you post a link or photo to your set up? I'd like to take a look at it. I have the HAF 932 case.
> 
> Thanks...Al


The pump speed is controlled by PWM, not voltage. Is your fan controller capable of putting out an actual PWM signal? Most aren't.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The only way that this would be possible is if your fan controller supports PWM control. Most don't though and only support voltage control. This won't work with this pump and it will just default to full speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump speed is controlled by PWM, not voltage. Is your fan controller capable of putting out an actual PWM signal? Most aren't.


Not sure, but it has standard 4 pin connectors; Lamptron FC5V2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Not sure, but it has standard 4 pin connectors; Lamptron FC5V2


No PWM there, all voltage control, and they are 3-pin, not 4-pin fan connectors.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No PWM there, all voltage control, and they are 3-pin, not 4-pin fan connectors.


Yep, I just check the manual. Question, i have 4 pin fans connected to the controller and can control the speed, what makes this pump different that i can't do the same?

Thanks...Al


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Yep, I just check the manual. Question, i have 4 pin fans connected to the controller and can control the speed, what makes this pump different that i can't do the same?
> 
> Thanks...Al


Fan speeds can always be controlled by varying the voltage with no harm, even of they are PWM equipped. The only "harm" one might encounter is higher startup speeds.

However, the Swiftech pump is designed to have a constant 12V input, with speed controlled by PWM signal. It is not deigned for, nor can it endure, variable voltage.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fan speeds can always be controlled by varying the voltage with no harm, even of they are PWM equipped. The only "harm" one might encounter is higher startup speeds.
> 
> However, the Swiftech pump is designed to have a constant 12V input, with speed controlled by PWM signal. It is not deigned for, nor can it endure, variable voltage.


Cool. Thanks for the insight


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Fan speeds can always be controlled by varying the voltage with no harm, even of they are PWM equipped. The only "harm" one might encounter is higher startup speeds.
> 
> However, the Swiftech pump is designed to have a constant 12V input, with speed controlled by PWM signal. It is not deigned for, nor can it endure, variable voltage.


what controller out there is pwm? Any of the aquaeros?


----------



## Jimbags

I must have a different version as mine goes to 3500rpm vs standard 3000rpm. It has a pwm plug for cpu_fan header, paired with a sata power cable for power.


----------



## Streetdragon

If i wanna replace the bad tubing form the H240-X i need to use 5/8 3/8 Tubing. In normal size it would be 16mm 9,6mm(10mm)
So http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/PrimoChill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-LRT-Schlauch-16-10mm-transparent-1m_986208.html

Would be a tubing that i could juse without problems?

Wanna build in this one : http://www.highflow.nl/radiatoren/1-x-120mm-120/black-ice-gt-xtreme-120.html

Would this fittings work? http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/10mm-3-8-id-5-8-od-bitspower-schroeffitting-paar-g1-4-2-stuks-matt-black.html

im open for suggestions^^


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> If i wanna replace the bad tubing form the H240-X i need to use 5/8 3/8 Tubing. In normal size it would be 16mm 9,6mm(10mm)
> So http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/PrimoChill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-LRT-Schlauch-16-10mm-transparent-1m_986208.html
> 
> Would be a tubing that i could juse without problems?
> 
> Wanna build in this one : http://www.highflow.nl/radiatoren/1-x-120mm-120/black-ice-gt-xtreme-120.html
> 
> Would this fittings work? http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/10mm-3-8-id-5-8-od-bitspower-schroeffitting-paar-g1-4-2-stuks-matt-black.html
> 
> im open for suggestions^^


yes to all the above advanced lrt fixed all the leeching issues...bitspower makes good fittings....but you can buy cheaper fittings that work just as well...use a tubing cutter or a very sharp blade when cutting tubing....always flush the crap out of new radiators when you get them to get out the leftover debris


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> what controller out there is pwm? Any of the aquaeros?


aquaero 6 has 4 pwm channels, is the best and the price reflects this. The 5(all versions) is similar but only has 1 pwm channel.

Corsair makes a link kit that is some type of pwm but I think they are still working out buggy software.

EK is about to drop something new soon that should compete with the aquaero.


----------



## v1ral

Alright I just changed my tubing and cpu block fittings, i refilled my loop and I got 2 pesky air bubbles driving me nuts.
Should I just use the pc like normal and just wait it out? Another thing, holy crap I have to reconnect pretty much everything to get the refilling process to get going, using the 24 pin jumper plug didn't work, so I just plug stuff in with a big risk of frying EVERYTHING!!
I filled it the best I could still have a slight girggling sound.

On a different note, why are the Swiftech fittings like a black chrome in color and not flat black? I've seen numerous websites that sale the fittings and they ALL look flat black, if I knew it would be that color I would of just bought some Alphacool or something.

So far my loop looks great can't wait to expand.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Alright I just changed my tubing and cpu block fittings, i refilled my loop and I got 2 pesky air bubbles driving me nuts.
> Should I just use the pc like normal and just wait it out? Another thing, holy crap I have to reconnect pretty much everything to get the refilling process to get going, using the 24 pin jumper plug didn't work, so I just plug stuff in with a big risk of frying EVERYTHING!!
> I filled it the best I could still have a slight girggling sound.
> 
> On a different note, why are the Swiftech fittings like a black chrome in color and not flat black? I've seen numerous websites that sale the fittings and they ALL look flat black, if I knew it would be that color I would of just bought some Alphacool or something.
> 
> So far my loop looks great can't wait to expand.


2 bubbles? Just use it man.

Are you sure you plug the pin correctly on your 24-pin cable? I know those adapters sometimes doesn't work because the silver pin doesn't actually make contact with the cable.


----------



## v1ral

I just took this now, thing sounds like an aquarium!


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> 
> I just took this now, thing sounds like an aquarium!


I had the same problem with mine.. Just get some distilled water and top it off at the filling hole..


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> 
> I just took this now, thing sounds like an aquarium!


Okay now that's definitely not "2" bubbles anymore. Yeah agree with @Danbeme32, just top off with more fluid. Ideally you will only see like a tiny bubble or so (which is aboslutely fine btw) even after topping up.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Okay now that's definitely "2" bubbles anymore. Yeah agree with @Danbeme32, just top off with more fluid. Ideally you will only see like a tiny bubble or so (which is aboslutely fine btw) even after topping up.


I have the origonal h220. Not having the res snd fill port as the highest point is the problem. To get the air out of mine I propped the rad at about 30 degrees and the res/fill port being the bighest ponit. Ran it at about 75% speed. All the air ended up at the top of the res, trapped away from the rest of the loop.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I have the origonal h220. Not having the res snd fill port as the highest point is the problem. To get the air out of mine I propped the rad at about 30 degrees and the res/fill port being the bighest ponit. Ran it at about 75% speed. All the air ended up at the top of the res, trapped away from the rest of the loop.


Honestly, I bled mine outside the case.
This is damn near impossible with hardline tubings of course, which would be my next project... so that's going to be a real pain in the rear.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Honestly, I bled mine outside the case.
> This is damn near impossible with hardline tubings of course, which would be my next project... so that's going to be a real pain in the rear.


I feel ya. But if your going hardline Im guessing no swiftech h220/h220x due to barbs.So proper res will help with that. I actually mounted my h220 (original) externally and packed the front of the open case higher it got rid of all the air in less than half hour.. But maybe its a design flaw in h220x. The inability to bleed correct?? No malice intended towards Swiftech.. I love you guys


----------



## bukojuice

Just want to share. H220 mod by Tantric (phils) swivel was converted


----------



## bukojuice




----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I feel ya. But if your going hardline Im guessing no swiftech h220/h220x due to barbs.So proper res will help with that. I actually mounted my h220 (original) externally and packed the front of the open case higher it got rid of all the air in less than half hour.. But maybe its a design flaw in h220x. The inability to bleed correct?? No malice intended towards Swiftech.. I love you guys


Hardline is entirely possible with H2xx. I have this - http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx

I can put any fitting I want on the pump outlet, in fact I'm using it already.
If you take a look at some of the pictures in this thread, there are quite a few users who are hardlining with the H2xx with no issues. No idea how hard it was for them to bleed it though. For example, [@Gavush] 's rig - http://www.overclock.net/g/i/2267256/rig-photos/sort/display_order/


----------



## Jimbags

Woah! I never knew this existed.. how do you convert the barbs on the original h220 block/pump? I got a heap of free solid copper tubing about 10mm ID. I can actually use it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Hardline is entirely possible with H2xx. I have this - http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
> 
> I can put any fitting I want on the pump outlet, in fact I'm using it already.
> If you take a look at some of the pictures in this thread, there are quite a few users who are hardlining with the H2xx with no issues. No idea how hard it was for them to bleed it though. For example, [@Gavush] 's rig - http://www.overclock.net/g/i/2267256/rig-photos/sort/display_order/


If you have the ability to run a fill line higher than the reservoir, it is actually very, very easy to bleed.


----------



## t1337dude

21 days and my RMA hasn't made its way from California to Washington. I wonder if there has been any complications.


----------



## thetechguy21

Just swapped the stock tubing to Primochill Advanced LRT UV Pearl Yellow. I also added the Swiftech G1/4 adapter for the pump and a tube to the filling port for easier bleeding, filling and draining.


----------



## Streetdragon

These little Socket screws for AMD Boards. wicj sort is it? M3 or what size so they have? Need to replace the short ones for longer ones and idont know wich one i need to buy. In Metric numbers please xD


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetechguy21*
> 
> Just swapped the stock tubing to Primochill Advanced LRT UV Pearl Yellow. I also added the Swiftech G1/4 adapter for the pump and a tube to the filling port for easier bleeding, filling and draining.


What cap or fillport did you use for the filport extension?


----------



## thetechguy21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> What cap or fillport did you use for the filport extension?


That is a Primochill Polypropylene Insert Plug 3/8, that I got from Performance-pcs


----------



## GETCARTER

I just installed a new Swiftech H220X onto my I7-4770K and noticed that my idle temperature is around 32/34 degrees, this seems very high to my compared to my air cooled noctua cooler that I had on it while would idle around 29.

I took a look and the pump is working, I did remove the plastic wrap from the unit before applying the thermal paste. I did remove it, clean the paste and reapply.

I am still getting the 33/34c temperature.

Also I ran two different tests:

BurnInTest which is passed with a 54max temperature.

OCCT I ran for 15 minutes and the max cpu temp was 72 degrees.

Ambient temperature in the room is around 25 degrees.

Any help would be great!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GETCARTER*
> 
> I just installed a new Swiftech H220X onto my I7-4770K and noticed that my idle temperature is around 32/34 degrees, this seems very high to my compared to my air cooled noctua cooler that I had on it while would idle around 29.
> 
> I took a look and the pump is working, I did remove the plastic wrap from the unit before applying the thermal paste. I did remove it, clean the paste and reapply.
> 
> I am still getting the 33/34c temperature.
> 
> Also I ran two different tests:
> 
> BurnInTest which is passed with a 54max temperature.
> 
> OCCT I ran for 15 minutes and the max cpu temp was 72 degrees.
> 
> Ambient temperature in the room is around 25 degrees.
> 
> Any help would be great!


Was your spread good and did you be sure to tighten in the x pattern small increments? Even pressure is important for both keeping air out and making it spread evenly


----------



## GETCARTER

Thanks for the reply, I believe the spread of the paste was good both times.

Also I did tighten them in the x pattern and tightened in increments to make sure it was seating even.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> 21 days and my RMA hasn't made its way from California to Washington. I wonder if there has been any complications.


PM me about this. I have a few of them that are finished and just waiting to be shipped out. Yours is probably one of those.


----------



## fruits

Hello gents!
Is there an official maintenance guide for the h240-x, by any chance?

Mine has been working like a charm for a while but I've recently noticed a bunch of green stuff floating in the reservoir which means I probably needs to change the coolant now and I don't really know where to start after googling this for a bit.


Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fruits*
> 
> Hello gents!
> Is there an official maintenance guide for the h240-x, by any chance?
> 
> Mine has been working like a charm for a while but I've recently noticed a bunch of green stuff floating in the reservoir which means I probably needs to change the coolant now and I don't really know where to start after googling this for a bit.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


PM me about this. I'll assist you with this issue.


----------



## Danbeme32

So yesterday I decided to add a gpu block to the loop. Been sitting around for a bit. I have the H220x. So I looked at the rpm seen I had an issue with it before. Long and behold the rpm is stuck again. I just got this back from rma a couple of months ago having the pump replaced.. Last time the rpm was stuck at the lowest setting at 1300 rpm. Now it is stuck at the highest at 2890 rpm.

Am like really.








Now I have to send it back and wait another 3-4 weeks.I did all the trouble shooting. removed from splitter and direct to cpu header no change. switch sata connecter no change..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> So yesterday I decided to add a gpu block to the loop. Been sitting around for a bit. I have the H220x. So I looked at the rpm seen I had an issue with it before. Long and behold the rpm is stuck again. I just got this back from rma a couple of months ago having the pump replaced.. Last time the rpm was stuck at the lowest setting at 1300 rpm. Now it is stuck at the highest at 2890 rpm.
> 
> Am like really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to send it back and wait another 3-4 weeks.I did all the trouble shooting. removed from splitter and direct to cpu header no change. switch sata connecter no change..


It sounds like the pump is not seeing a PWM signal. I noticed you have a Sabertooth Z87 - before you go through RMA, check your BIOS to make sure that your CPU header didn't go over to voltage regulation rather than PWM somehow (Sabertooth BIOS have a mind of their own....especially the Z87). If it is still set for PWM, try changing it to voltage then back to PWM. Would be a shame to have the unit gone for RMA if it is a sticky BIOS setting that the board is known for.

There was another sticky BIOS setting with the fans on that board that involved enabling and disabling "Allow Fan Stop", but I don't recall all of the details. I had quite the go around with fan header issues on that board.....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> So yesterday I decided to add a gpu block to the loop. Been sitting around for a bit. I have the H220x. So I looked at the rpm seen I had an issue with it before. Long and behold the rpm is stuck again. I just got this back from rma a couple of months ago having the pump replaced.. Last time the rpm was stuck at the lowest setting at 1300 rpm. Now it is stuck at the highest at 2890 rpm.
> 
> Am like really.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to send it back and wait another 3-4 weeks.I did all the trouble shooting. removed from splitter and direct to cpu header no change. switch sata connecter no change..


We've seen three of these PWM issues out of the nearly 10 thousand of these kits that we've sold thus far. For you to have the same issue twice points to it not being an issue with the kit at all.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It sounds like the pump is not seeing a PWM signal. I noticed you have a Sabertooth Z87 - before you go through RMA, check your BIOS to make sure that your CPU header didn't go over to voltage regulation rather than PWM somehow (Sabertooth BIOS have a mind of their own....especially the Z87). If it is still set for PWM, try changing it to voltage then back to PWM. Would be a shame to have the unit gone for RMA if it is a sticky BIOS setting that the board is known for.
> 
> There was another sticky BIOS setting with the fans on that board that involved enabling and disabling "Allow Fan Stop", but I don't recall all of the details. I had quite the go around with fan header issues on that board.....


Thanks for the help. Tried it but it didn't work. Once I get home I have a couple of PWM fans I'll try to see if the rpm changes.


----------



## Jimbags

Hey guys just after some advice on flow direction of the original H220. Eg inlet outlet. Adding gpu to the loop and would rather cpu get liquid from rad first then gpu.Heres a pic to help.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Hey guys just after some advice on flow direction of the original H220. Eg inlet outlet. Adding gpu to the loop and would rather cpu get liquid from rad first then gpu.Heres a pic to help.


Liquid temps throughout the entire loop equalize meaning it makes no difference what order the components are in. And if it does make a difference we are talking too small an amount to matter (0.05C or something). Route your tubing to best suite the looks


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Hey guys just after some advice on flow direction of the original H220. Eg inlet outlet. Adding gpu to the loop and would rather cpu get liquid from rad first then gpu.Heres a pic to help.


Loop order doesnt matter, just place reservoir before pump for optimal air pocket cleansing


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Loop order doesnt matter, just place reservoir before pump for optimal air pocket cleansing


I get what your saying. I want the rad/res before the pump so it primes easier. How can I tell which way the flow is going though?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I get what your saying. I want the rad/res before the pump so it primes easier. How can I tell which way the flow is going though?


I want to say that one of the sides actually labels the inlet, but I'm not100% sure


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I want to say that one of the sides actually labels the inlet, but I'm not100% sure


Yes, on one side of the pump and water block unit there is a label that says inlet.


----------



## Jimbags

Ok cool  Thanks heaps guys! Rep+


----------



## alus415

Hi all,

I'm new to liquid cooling and recently decided that my Noctua NH-D14 has to go , great temps but it's too massive . I also recently added the EVGA hybrid kit to my GPU and started to look for a CPU solution and after searching found out that the quietest solution might be the H220-X.

While looking in Swiftech website I found out that they also have a full gpu waterblock for the 980 ti and that it works with the H220-x , well here is my question and I'm coming here because I could not get a real answer just by looking in their website.

1. Is the H220-X enough for both CPU and GPU and maintain great temperatures or will I need to buy another rad/fans?

2. If anyone here knows what fittings do you need for the 980ti? reason I ask is because looking at what comes in the the Komodo gpu waterblock are just screws and guide , it even states fittings not included yet they show six different types of fittings that you can buy without really telling you which one(s) are for the 980 ti.

3. Lastly if I were to use the H220-X with the Komodo Waterblock I assume I need to purchase additional tubing? or is the loop setup something like this?

[ H220X RAD ]--out---in--[CPU]--out---in---[GPU]--out---back in to---[ H220X RAD]

Thanks for any clarification in this matter , I'm in my return window of my evga hybrid and need some advice so I can decide to keep it or return it and try the loop.

Thanks!

p.s. oh for reference my hybrid temps are 47-53c avg , any komodo 980ti owners what kind of temps are you getting ?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm new to liquid cooling and recently decided that my Noctua NH-D14 has to go , great temps but it's too massive . I also recently added the EVGA hybrid kit to my GPU and started to look for a CPU solution and after searching found out that the quietest solution might be the H220-X.
> 
> While looking in Swiftech website I found out that they also have a full gpu waterblock for the 980 ti and that it works with the H220-x , well here is my question and I'm coming here because I could not get a real answer just by looking in their website.
> 
> 1. Is the H220-X enough for both CPU and GPU and maintain great temperatures or will I need to buy another rad/fans?
> 
> 2. If anyone here knows what fittings do you need for the 980ti? reason I ask is because looking at what comes in the the Komodo gpu waterblock are just screws and guide , it even states fittings not included yet they show six different types of fittings that you can buy without really telling you which one(s) are for the 980 ti.
> 
> 3. Lastly if I were to use the H220-X with the Komodo Waterblock I assume I need to purchase additional tubing? or is the loop setup something like this?
> 
> [ H220X RAD ]--out---in--[CPU]--out---in---[GPU]--out---back in to---[ H220X RAD]
> 
> Thanks for any clarification in this matter , I'm in my return window of my evga hybrid and need some advice so I can decide to keep it or return it and try the loop.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> p.s. oh for reference my hybrid temps are 47-53c avg , any komodo 980ti owners what kind of temps are you getting ?


1. You will need more radiator space and fans with it

2. GPU kits usually only come with the block and a few screws. You need to get additional fittings. fittings in this case are either barb fittings or compression fittings with g1/4 to tube size. For stock H220X use, the fittings you want are for 3/8" x 5/8" (10 x 16mm) fittings. Whether you use barbs(requires a clamp as well) or compression fittings, 2 are required for an expansion.

3. Yes you will need tubing. refer to above for stock size. you can change tubing size only if you decide to change the rest of the fittings in the kit.


----------



## Jimbags

Work in progress need clamps, coolant and cable management but happy with first attempt so far..



Also whats with my coolant? Is it even coolant? Its not coloured and cloudy? Distilled water? Coildnt get a clear pic..@BramSLI1


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Work in progress need clamps, coolant and cable management but happy with first attempt so far..
> 
> 
> 
> Also whats with my coolant? Is it even coolant? Its not coloured and cloudy? Distilled water? Coildnt get a clear pic..@BramSLI1


That looks like plasticizer to me.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That looks like plasticizer to me.


I agree but why no coolant? I thought it was meant to have swiftech coolant?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I agree but why no coolant? I thought it was meant to have swiftech coolant?


That is our coolant. Our latest coolant is very near to clear. There is a small amount of dye in it, but for the most part it's pretty much clear.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That is our coolant. Our latest coolant is very near to clear. There is a small amount of dye in it, but for the most part it's pretty much clear.


Oh ok no worries. Thanks for the response  was a little worried haha all the reviews and how to's show green or blue. But it was working fine so all good.
Got my loop done for now, just using deminerilised water and with the single rad, GTX [email protected] and i5 [email protected] temps arent too bad.
Cpu max while gaming is 65c but sits around 60c mostly, and gpu sits on 58c. So decent temps for single 240mm rad.. also fans only in push and amient is around 28c


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Oh ok no worries. Thanks for the response  was a little worried haha all the reviews and how to's show green or blue. But it was working fine so all good.
> Got my loop done for now, just using deminerilised water and with the single rad, GTX [email protected] and i5 [email protected] temps arent too bad.
> Cpu max while gaming is 65c but sits around 60c mostly, and gpu sits on 58c. So decent temps for single 240mm rad.. also fans only in push and amient is around 28c


Are you using any biocide? If not you should be


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you using any biocide? If not you should be


Agreed;


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you using any biocide? If not you should be


No im not. Do I need to? Any recommendations?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> No im not. Do I need to? Any recommendations?


There's a few I know of. PT Nuke PHN, PT Nuke (Copper Solution), Mayhems Biocide Extreme, and Silver Killcoils (personally not a fan). I believe there are some "home remedies" too but I'm not knowledgable on that.

You definitely want some form of biocide or your loop will end up with some growth.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> There's a few I know of. PT Nuke PHN, PT Nuke (Copper Solution), Mayhems Biocide Extreme, and Silver Killcoils (personally not a fan). I believe there are some "home remedies" too but I'm not knowledgable on that.
> 
> You definitely want some form of biocide or your loop will end up with some growth.


Thanks heaps for the advice. Rep+


----------



## Jimbags

Did a unigine valley benchmark for 10 minutes and the gpu is about same temps as running shadow of modor but cpu only hits around 58c max. SoM must be fairly cpu intensive. Really suprised how well the single rad copes with both the cpu and gpu. 50% pump speed only push stock helix fans on rad. Great cooling on a budget!


----------



## Velathawen

Guys I'd like a little bit of help here - Had my H240x for 3 days (worked fine first two) and I came back to the comp idling at 85C today.

At the moment everything except the pump seems to be working as fans are spinning, the CPU block and res are both well lit. Other components (GPU, HDD, etc all functioning)

Installation:

Pump -> channel 1 on PWM splitter

2 Fans -> PWM splitter

Sata connection is secure, tried other cables and other PSU slots

PWM splitter -> CPU fan header, confirmed secure.

CPU block LED -> CPU fan alternate, confirmed secure.

I have both the PWM splitter and the pump SATA power hooked up to the same cord coming from the PSU. This couldn't be the problem could it?



When I first purchased the H240x earlier this month I noticed there were some things that looked like cardboard flakes in the res. I asked the rep at a local store and they insisted it was perfectly normal. Is something else at play here?

Hardware:

6700K
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
G.Skill 2x8 DDR4-3000 CL15
EVGA 1050W Supernova
Fractal Design R5


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Thanks heaps for the advice. Rep+


You could also go with a concentrate like XSPC EC6, Swiftech Hydrx, etc. This will also give you anti corossive in the fluid, as well as allow for a color choice if you so desire.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Guys I'd like a little bit of help here - Had my H240x for 3 days (worked fine first two) and I came back to the comp idling at 85C today.
> 
> At the moment everything except the pump seems to be working as fans are spinning, the CPU block and res are both well lit. Other components (GPU, HDD, etc all functioning)
> 
> Installation:
> 
> Pump -> channel 1 on PWM splitter
> 
> 2 Fans -> PWM splitter
> 
> Sata connection is secure, tried other cables and other PSU slots
> 
> PWM splitter -> CPU fan header, confirmed secure.
> 
> CPU block LED -> CPU fan alternate, confirmed secure.
> 
> I have both the PWM splitter and the pump SATA power hooked up to the same cord coming from the PSU. This couldn't be the problem could it?
> 
> 
> 
> When I first purchased the H240x earlier this month I noticed there were some things that looked like cardboard flakes in the res. I asked the rep at a local store and they insisted it was perfectly normal. Is something else at play here?
> 
> Hardware:
> 
> 6700K
> Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
> G.Skill 2x8 DDR4-3000 CL15
> EVGA 1050W Supernova
> Fractal Design R5


Are you getting a CPU fan error or do you receive an RPM reading for the pump at all?


----------



## Velathawen

I had a reading for the pump but now no longer get one. If I plug the Swiftech Helix fans into CHNL1 the readings and control pop up just fine, though admittedly I haven't played with it much since 80C in bios doesn't sit well with me.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> I had a reading for the pump but now no longer get one. If I plug the Swiftech Helix fans into CHNL1 the readings and control pop up just fine, though admittedly I haven't played with it much since 80C in bios doesn't sit well with me.


OK, then PM me about this and I'll assist you with warranty support. It sounds like the pump has failed.


----------



## paskowitz

I am considering doing a water cooling setup for my current rig. Relevant components: (Fractal Design Define R4, Asus Maximus VII Formula, 4790k, EVGA 980 ti Classified). I currently have my 4790K attached to an H100i but it isn't all that quiet or cool. I have seen both H240X and 220s in R4s (just with some modifications... which I already have a solution for). What I am not fine with is modifying for a pump and res mount (also cost is higher). This explains why I would want to go with Swiftech.

My main concerns are about radiator real estate (heat), noise and pump strength. Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components (CPU, GPU, Mobo)? Obviously, I got the R4 for silence so running fans at max is not an option (something my Classy on air often does). To keep noise down, I would not use the top mount. Would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough? Again, noise is important, so if the pump has to run at full blast and that is noisy... maybe adding an MCR140X is better?

I can currently go [email protected] on the CPU and 1500/[email protected] (for games, higher for benching) on the GPU... but the CPU is 80c (spikes), GPU 75c (+/-5c) and as a result it sometimes gets too loud. The same settings at ~60c with mild noise would be my ideal goal. Maybe push my GPU higher with more volts for benching. I would like to keep total cost around $300-350 USD if possible

Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop? I only ask because the 980 ti seems to be (at least in my experience) pretty temperature dependent when it comes to overclocking.


----------



## PacificNic

I hardly ever post on here, I am more of a lurker, but I have enough money now to explore cooling options that veer away from my air/heatsink setup. I want to go liquid. The problem I have is that I want to be able to expand the loop in future, which shouldn't be a problem, except that I don't really trust an AIO-driving pump to push water through the GPU block and 240mm rad that I want to add down the road. So I have a few options:

H220X - MCP30 *should* be good enough, but even so, I just don't like the idea that it came from an AIO. It's illogical, I know, but that's just what I think.
Glacer 240L - same kinda deal except a Rev.2 was launched; little to no information that I could find
XSPC kit - It's expensive BUT it is 100% expansion-ready, comes with a strong, reliable D5, and would probably be better in the long run
That being said, the XSPC kit costs around $100 more than the H220X and mounting the tube res/pump that I want would be an ordeal.

I'm just looking for opinions from experienced owners of this kind of gear. Any and all replies/help are appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PacificNic*
> 
> I hardly ever post on here, I am more of a lurker, but I have enough money now to explore cooling options that veer away from my air/heatsink setup. I want to go liquid. The problem I have is that I want to be able to expand the loop in future, which shouldn't be a problem, except that I don't really trust an AIO-driving pump to push water through the GPU block and 240mm rad that I want to add down the road. So I have a few options:
> 
> H220X - MCP30 *should* be good enough, but even so, I just don't like the idea that it came from an AIO. It's illogical, I know, but that's just what I think.
> Glacer 240L - same kinda deal except a Rev.2 was launched; little to no information that I could find
> XSPC kit - It's expensive BUT it is 100% expansion-ready, comes with a strong, reliable D5, and would probably be better in the long run
> That being said, the XSPC kit costs around $100 more than the H220X and mounting the tube res/pump that I want would be an ordeal.
> 
> I'm just looking for opinions from experienced owners of this kind of gear. Any and all replies/help are appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


You are underestimating the MCP30. While it is in an AiO, it has proven to be a stronger and more reliable pump than standalone pumps in entry level kits. It is very comfortable running a CPU, GPU and two rads with excellent performance, and it also happens to be very quiet. The H220-X is every bit as ready for expansion ad the XSPC kit if you are staying in a loop of the aforementioned size.

That said....there is no arguing that the D5 is a stronger pump, and the Photon is far easier to fill and bleed.

The price difference between the two can certainly be justified, and both are excellent pieces. You won't go wrong with either.


----------



## JustinSane

2 questions:
1. Where is the best place to order a H220X? Only places I know of are Amazon and directly from Swiftech. Amazon's stock ships from some weird stores I've never heard of. Kinda feel weird ordering from them.
2. Is Gelid GC-Extreme still the best to use with the H220X? Or if you have any other recommendations for paste, I could use some guidance.

Sorry if 1 has been asked before. I know 2 has been asked probably a million times.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> 2 questions:
> 1. Where is the best place to order a H220X? Only places I know of are Amazon and directly from Swiftech. Amazon's stock ships from some weird stores I've never heard of. Kinda feel weird ordering from them.
> 2. Is Gelid GC-Extreme still the best to use with the H220X? Or if you have any other recommendations for paste, I could use some guidance.
> 
> Sorry if 1 has been asked before. I know 2 has been asked probably a million times.


Most of the Amazon resellers are authorized Swiftech resellers. This includes Gigaparts, Aerocooler, and Sidewinder. It they have them in stock then it's safe to purchase from them. As for the best TIM, it's really just a matter of preference because all modern TiM's are within a few degrees of each other anyway.


----------



## AmishTurtle

Hello,

I have put in my h240x into my computer and realized that I put in the cpu block upside down. I know.... don't laugh. I was wondering if this will affect performance or temperatures.

Thanks,


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have put in my h240x into my computer and realized that I put in the cpu block upside down. I know.... don't laugh. I was wondering if this will affect performance or temperatures.
> 
> Thanks,


You can use the cpu block at any orientation and will still get the same result. Just remove the faceplate and put it the way u want it.


----------



## AmishTurtle

I am also getting semi disappointing temps. I had a Hyper 212 evo and I got about 33C IDLE and with the H240x I am getting around 31C IDLE with a i7 4770k. Is this normal.


----------



## tw33k

Forget idle temps. What are your temps under load I just changed a H100i for a H240-X and my temps are over 10c better!


----------



## AmishTurtle

Wow! 20C lower!!!!

Did not even think of that.

Also why does the Led keep fluctuating in brightness, anyway to change that???


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> Wow! 20C lower!!!!
> 
> Did not even think of that.
> 
> Also why does the Led keep fluctuating in brightness, anyway to change that???


the LED only fluctuates in brightness if whatever header its connected to keeps changing voltage. you need to either hardware or software wise change it so whatever the led is connected to, the voltage does not dim


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> I am also getting semi disappointing temps. I had a Hyper 212 evo and I got about 33C IDLE and with the H240x I am getting around 31C IDLE with a i7 4770k. Is this normal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Forget idle temps. What are your temps under load I just changed a H100i for a H240-X and my temps are over 10c better!


Agree 100%. Idle temps are mostly irrelevant. All that matters is temps when things get cookin! An H220/240X will absolutely destroy a 212 evo under load.


----------



## AmishTurtle

What software can I get to do this?


----------



## AmishTurtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> the LED only fluctuates in brightness if whatever header its connected to keeps changing voltage. you need to either hardware or software wise change it so whatever the led is connected to, the voltage does not dim


What kind of software?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmishTurtle*
> 
> What kind of software?


whatever software you would use to control fans. either it being speed fan or a propietary fan control service by your motherboard company. Alternatively, plugging it into the 8 way splitter should give it power as the splitter is not voltage controlled and is on 12v the whole time.


----------



## jcoleman4

if this thread is still alive, I just bought the H240X and i'm getting a weird buzzing/beeping sound that seems to originate from the CPU block. i'm fairly certain it coming from that because i unplugged all the fans in my system and i still heard it.
Can anyone confirm or deny this is a thing?


----------



## paskowitz

Shorting my post from last page...

I am considering doing a water cooling setup for my current rig. Relevant components: (Fractal Design *Define R4*, Asus *Maximus VII Formula*, *4790k*, EVGA *980 ti Classified*).

My main concerns are heat dissipation/noise and pump strength.
*Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components* (CPU, GPU, Mobo)? *Pump strong enough?*

If not, would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough? Maybe an MCR140X is better?

I would like to keep total cost around $300-350 USD if possible

Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop?


----------



## PacificNic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Shorting my post from last page...
> 
> I am considering doing a water cooling setup for my current rig. Relevant components: (Fractal Design *Define R4*, Asus *Maximus VII Formula*, *4790k*, EVGA *980 ti Classified*).
> 
> My main concerns are heat dissipation/noise and pump strength.
> *Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components* (CPU, GPU, Mobo)? *Pump strong enough?*
> 
> If not, would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough? Maybe an MCR140X is better?
> 
> I would like to keep total cost around $300-350 USD if possible
> 
> Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop?


I don't think you can fit an H240X in the R4 without some light modding, though I could be wrong.

What I would do is buy an XSPC 240 rad kit for about $250 and get some extra fittings for the motherboard and graphics card (maybe some extra tubing as well). You would obviously have to buy a GPU block as well which would cost $100-120 so that leaves you at around about $380. You can buy another radiator down the road.

If you wanted to go the Swiftech route, get the H220X and a GPU block (~$225). With the other $75-125 you could buy another radiator for the front along with tubing and fittings. You would probablt end up at a cost of close to $350 (before shipping).

I would not recommend using a single radiator for all components if you overclock heavily. That being said, the D5 pumps are much stronger so future expansion into multiple GPU setups would be non-issues. There is little benefit to having separate loops, as far as I understand, other than being able to regulate temps and fan speeds much more specifically. In the end, the same heat gets dissipated by the same number of rads.

I could be 100% wrong about that last part, but I do not think I am. I think JayzTwoCents has a video on that maybe.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Shorting my post from last page...
> 
> I am considering doing a water cooling setup for my current rig. Relevant components: (Fractal Design *Define R4*, Asus *Maximus VII Formula*, *4790k*, EVGA *980 ti Classified*).
> 
> My main concerns are heat dissipation/noise and pump strength.
> *Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components* (CPU, GPU, Mobo)? *Pump strong enough?*
> 
> If not, would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough? Maybe an MCR140X is better?
> 
> I would like to keep total cost around $300-350 USD if possible
> 
> Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop?


Quote:


> Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components


No. Rule of thumb minimum is 120 per part + 120mm. looking for a few pages back, I mention my loop temperatures with a 3770k and 290, which a overclocked high end Nvidia card can reach roughly the same temperature.
Quote:


> If not, would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough?


Pump is strong enough. temperature will be relative to ambient. I have high idle temps due to situation (only 3x 120mm radiator surface area in a tiny case) i idle at ~47c but load sits around 70c (as long as it isnt stock 290 cooler 95c. Do note this is summer temperatures, and is drastically different under ambient winter temps). If you plan to push that 980ti, you may want more radiator.
Quote:


> Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop?


No, not really. the only plus side if you dont plan on using quick disconnects is if they are in separate loops, if one pump breaks, its not like you have to replace both blocks to stock cooling. that's probably the only realistic advantage.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Separate loops might be good in some cases but if you have two pumps pushing the same loop and one fails you have second pump redundancy and less chance of damage to the components imo


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Separate loops might be good in some cases but if you have two pumps pushing the same loop and one fails you have second pump redundancy and less chance of damage to the components imo


WOULD that ACTUALLY work like that ? I'm kind of thinking of doing something maybe similar ... getting a H240-X along with an H140-X and an additional 120mm Rad to cool CPU and TWO X-fired R9-290X's GPU blocks, Komodo R9-LE's.

BUT I was more worried having TWO pumps pushing around the coolant might cause issues or problems with flows and make one fail prematurely somehow ?

Mock up of plan ...  ... in this case would a SINGLE CUSTOM LOOP be best ? or a separate CPU LOOP and separate GPU LOOP ?

Use the H140-X and 120mm Rad on the CPU Loop / and then the H240-X on the dual GPU Loop ??? *OR* put everything on a SINGLE complete Loop ???


----------



## Refugee47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Shorting my post from last page...
> 
> I am considering doing a water cooling setup for my current rig. Relevant components: (Fractal Design *Define R4*, Asus *Maximus VII Formula*, *4790k*, EVGA *980 ti Classified*).
> 
> My main concerns are heat dissipation/noise and pump strength.
> *Would a single 240 or 220 be enough radiator for all my components* (CPU, GPU, Mobo)? *Pump strong enough?*
> 
> If not, would an additional 140mm rad on the back be enough (in addition to the front 240 or 220)? If I went that route, would the single Swiftech pump be powerful enough? Maybe an MCR140X is better?
> 
> I would like to keep total cost around $300-350 USD if possible
> 
> Bonus question is there a benefit to keeping your GPU on a separate loop?


I have the h220 x as an intake in the front of a fractal R5 . Complete silence . Even with the pump and fans on max speed you'd have to put your head right up against the case to hear the fans . I think you'd be fine with just one 240 x . A 140 in the back and 220x in the front is more than enough . If I were you I'd first test things out with just the single 220 or 240x ( not sure if the 240 fits in the front of an R4 ) and see how things go . If your not happy with the temps you can make some changes .


----------



## Refugee47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PacificNic*
> 
> I hardly ever post on here, I am more of a lurker, but I have enough money now to explore cooling options that veer away from my air/heatsink setup. I want to go liquid. The problem I have is that I want to be able to expand the loop in future, which shouldn't be a problem, except that I don't really trust an AIO-driving pump to push water through the GPU block and 240mm rad that I want to add down the road. So I have a few options:
> 
> H220X - MCP30 *should* be good enough, but even so, I just don't like the idea that it came from an AIO. It's illogical, I know, but that's just what I think.
> Glacer 240L - same kinda deal except a Rev.2 was launched; little to no information that I could find
> XSPC kit - It's expensive BUT it is 100% expansion-ready, comes with a strong, reliable D5, and would probably be better in the long run
> That being said, the XSPC kit costs around $100 more than the H220X and mounting the tube res/pump that I want would be an ordeal.
> 
> I'm just looking for opinions from experienced owners of this kind of gear. Any and all replies/help are appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


Did you check out that new EK AIO expandable ? Its called the predator or phantom or something like that . EK did a temp comparison graph which compares it to 10 or so different AIO's but for some reason they didn't compare it to the swiftech . I doubt it's the "game changer" they claim it to be but it's something for you to consider .


----------



## Methodical

Note: for this discussion, lets assume there's no OC on either component, even though there is some OC.

I have the 220x and considering adding the 140mm radiator (@ the back) and fan so that I can include the 980 ti in the loop. Question. I'm correct in thinking that the overall temps from both components would drive the speed of the pump and fans with this setup - correct? Even so, will their be an imbalance of cooling between the CPU and GPU since both typically heat differently? Curious

I am debating between adding a 140mm radiator and fan at the back of my case and adding the 980 Ti to the loop or add the 140x and connect the 980 Ti by itself (hybrid if you will) because I may want to connect the fans to my fan controller (pump to CPU header) that way I am not depending on the system to drive the fans via my cpu fan settings. Just thinking out loud and like to get some feedback from those that have been doing this way longer than me.

Thanks...Al


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> if this thread is still alive, I just bought the H240X and i'm getting a weird buzzing/beeping sound that seems to originate from the CPU block. i'm fairly certain it coming from that because i unplugged all the fans in my system and i still heard it.
> Can anyone confirm or deny this is a thing?


Buzzing is a possibility and could be caused by many different things - the most likely being that the loop hasn't finished bleeding itself after install.

Beeping would be another matter. That isn't the H240-X, there is no annunciator of any kind to make a beeping sound.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> WOULD that ACTUALLY work like that ? I'm kind of thinking of doing something maybe similar ... getting a H240-X along with an H140-X and an additional 120mm Rad to cool CPU and TWO X-fired R9-290X's GPU blocks, Komodo R9-LE's.
> 
> BUT I was more worried having TWO pumps pushing around the coolant might cause issues or problems with flows and make one fail prematurely somehow ?
> 
> Mock up of plan ...  ... in this case would a SINGLE CUSTOM LOOP be best ? or a separate CPU LOOP and separate GPU LOOP ?
> 
> Use the H140-X and 120mm Rad on the CPU Loop / and then the H240-X on the dual GPU Loop ??? *OR* put everything on a SINGLE complete Loop ???


Having two pumps in the same loop doesn't cause any issues. There are lots of custom loops that use two pumps in series in the same loop for redundancy.


----------



## paskowitz

Awesome! Thank you to everyone who replied. Your responses were very helpful. Some guy on Overclock3D put an H240X in an R4 but it looks like it was a very tight fit. I'll just go with the H220 and rear 140mm rad. I don't want to do an installation twice.


----------



## PacificNic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Refugee47*
> 
> Did you check out that new EK AIO expandable ? Its called the predator or phantom or something like that . EK did a temp comparison graph which compares it to 10 or so different AIO's but for some reason they didn't compare it to the swiftech . I doubt it's the "game changer" they claim it to be but it's something for you to consider .


It would be fantastic if not for the price. $200 for a 240mm expandable AIO??? No thanks. I'll just spend the extra $50 and get a D5 plus more customizability or save $60 and get the H220X.

It's a halfway decent attempt, but halfway decent won't cut it.

Their pre-filled quick disconnect GPU blocks on the other hand, are a step in the right direction. The downside is, I just know you'll be stuck using their proprietary QDC fittings as opposed to mainstream Koolance ones. So a step in the right direction, but not quite a success unless they make those specific QDCs available for retail.


----------



## BramSLI1

I would like to inform everyone that I’m going to be leaving Swiftech shortly to pursue furthering my education. This means that there will be an opening with Swiftech for my position. If you live in the Long Beach, California or South LA area, please contact Gabe at [email protected] If you know anyone who lives in this area and has the necessary skills, then please inform them of this opportunity. It’s been a pleasure serving the community and our loyal customers. I wish you all the best.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

They have big shoes to fill you have done an amazing job here....good luck and don't be a stranger here


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would like to inform everyone that I'm going to be leaving Swiftech shortly to pursue furthering my education. This means that there will be an opening with Swiftech for my position. If you live in the Long Beach, California or South LA area, please contact Gabe at [email protected] If you know anyone who lives in this area and has the necessary skills, then please inform them of this opportunity. It's been a pleasure serving the community and our loyal customers. I wish you all the best.


While I don't live in California nor am I qualified to provide anywhere REMOTELY near the level of service you do I just wanted to say thanks for all the help you've provided to the community during your stay with Swiftech and OCN.

You sir are a genuinely good guy and I wish you the best in your future endeavors.


----------



## v1ral

What the heck, this is big news!!!
Wish you well Bram!!!
Thanks for all the help and priceless info!


----------



## fisher6

WIsh you all the best man, don't be a stranger here:thumb:


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I would like to inform everyone that I'm going to be leaving Swiftech shortly to pursue furthering my education. This means that there will be an opening with Swiftech for my position. If you live in the Long Beach, California or South LA area, please contact Gabe at [email protected] If you know anyone who lives in this area and has the necessary skills, then please inform them of this opportunity. It's been a pleasure serving the community and our loyal customers. I wish you all the best.


Good luck Bryan and thank you constantly helping everyone out in this thread and on this forum!


----------



## jcoleman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Buzzing is a possibility and could be caused by many different things - the most likely being that the loop hasn't finished bleeding itself after install.
> 
> Beeping would be another matter. That isn't the H240-X, there is no annunciator of any kind to make a beeping sound.


I was suggested to put a drop of liquid dish cleaner in the pump.
what do you mean by "Bleeding itself"

Thanks for your response!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> I was suggested to put a drop of liquid dish cleaner in the pump.
> what do you mean by "Bleeding itself"
> 
> Thanks for your response!


Bleeding refers to bleeding the air out of the loop. To do so, you need to be able to leave the fill port cap open and run the pump. What this will do is agitate the air bubbles and allow them to escape through the open fill port. Then just top off the coolant with distilled water once all of the air has been bled out.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Question does anyone know if a 140-x will be enough to cool the new i7 skylake cpu? Probably will swap the Helix fan to a noctua industrial fan. I bought a Fractal Design S awhile back for my future build i am planning on doing later on, and i was originally going to go with the Swiftech H240-x, but i've seen pictures where the rear fan won't fit or someone has said that it couldn't fit as the rad is long so i thought about the 140-x. Or would the 220-x with two industrials work just as fine?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Question does anyone know if a 140-x will be enough to cool the new i7 skylake cpu? Probably will swap the Helix fan to a noctua industrial fan. I bought a Fractal Design S awhile back for my future build i am planning on doing later on, and i was originally going to go with the Swiftech H240-x, but i've seen pictures where the rear fan won't fit or someone has said that it couldn't fit as the rad is long so i thought about the 140-x. Or would the 220-x with two industrials work just as fine?


I would go the h220x only minor price difference and gives you more room for overclocking.
With the fans the helix are really great fans so unless you already have some noctua fans I'd use the helix there won't be bigger all difference between the 2 .


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I would go the h220x only minor price difference and gives you more room for overclocking.
> With the fans the helix are really great fans so unless you already have some noctua fans I'd use the helix there won't be bigger all difference between the 2 .


So the 220-x would be enough cooling for the i7 skylake?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> So the 220-x would be enough cooling for the i7 skylake?


How far are you going to overclock ?
I'm using a h240x on a 4770k chip and it is doing a pretty good job the skylakes chips should be better at heat transfer than the hot 4770ks .


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> So the 220-x would be enough cooling for the i7 skylake?


Have seen the h220x cool cpu and gpu single handed with decent temps.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Have seen the h220x cool cpu and gpu single handed with decent temps.


My original H220 cools my i5 [email protected]+GTX [email protected] reaches max 60c, cpu hits 63c when pushing them both. Not bad considering ambient is 28c+ most of the time. If you have a decent ambient it could be alot better. :-D


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> How far are you going to overclock ?
> I'm using a h240x on a 4770k chip and it is doing a pretty good job the skylakes chips should be better at heat transfer than the hot 4770ks .


Probably not a lot or at all. But i would like to have the cooler regardless as it looks good inside cases and results for temps are good


----------



## ep45-ds3l

Just picked this up from the Mayfield Heights Microcenter (which also price matched the Swiftech website price) and sold my Raystorm 360 WC kit. Really liking the H240x so far


----------



## JustinSane

Just got mine and quick question while installing. There's this plastic film with cushions on it on the backplate. Am I supposed to take that off the backplate before I put it on?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> Just got mine and quick question while installing. There's this plastic film with cushions on it on the backplate. Am I supposed to take that off the backplate before I put it on?


No. That plastic will prevent short circuiting your motherboard.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> No. That plastic will prevent short circuiting your motherboard.


this.... The only plastic to be removed is that on the logo and window and the cpu block of course


----------



## JustinSane

I was having such a hard time installing this earlier. I had to take a break from it. I didn't know that the bracket had nubs that were supposed to poke through the motherboard. Now I'm having a hard time getting them all to poke through. They keep collapsing back into the ring. Any tips to get them to stay stuck out?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> I was having such a hard time installing this earlier. I had to take a break from it. I didn't know that the bracket had nubs that were supposed to poke through the motherboard. Now I'm having a hard time getting them all to poke through. They keep collapsing back into the ring. Any tips to get them to stay stuck out?


If i remember right someone here said they used small peices of double sided tape (not foam kind) to hold each corner in place after they pushed it through... some people had issues with them not coming through the holes in the boards due to board variances but i cannot remember which boards it was...i havent installed this on intel so this is just based on what ive read here but there are a lot of intel users here that have installed it im sure someone can shed more light on this


----------



## Dudewitbow

after having installed the back bracket quite a handful of times, tape definitely does help make it easier, but shouldn't be required. if the bracket still has the sticky foam pads attached to it, they for the most part should be sticky enough to stick onto the mobo(pretty well) if its brand new.


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

OK, I just got mine today ... swiftech had the H240-X back in stock on their website so I picked one up ... and I'm off on the path of water-cooling finally









Couple questions ...

- I know a lot of people have posted about issues with *plasticiser* ... my unit has I think the newer non-shiny style (more Neoprene like) hosing. So is this better and safe right ? Do I or don't I need to worry about replacing the hosing on the unit ? and as I'll add more to the Loop/system later on (2 x R9-LE Komodo's, an MCR140-X drive, an additional 120 radiator) I'll need more/additional hose anyway ... what is the suggested type to use ?

- I bought the optional RED Reservoir window replacement, HAS anyone risked doing this modification yet ? and how'd it go, any advice ?

- I also bought the G1/4 compatible replacement outlet port fitting, BUT ... IS it worth the expense of replacing all the fittings over ? or are the stock barb and clamp set-up that comes with the H240-X et all good enough not to need doing this ?

- Lastly, this is purely a aesthetics question, I have been thinking about making the hosing look like stainless steel braided lines w/ anodized fittings, similar look as engine hose's inside a pimped out muscle car .... using things like this   

Would anyone know of any issues or concerns that might be involved doing this ? I haven't seen any other rigs with this type of mod, so maybe there's a reason ?


----------



## t1337dude

Seems like the PWM functionality of my H-240X setup is finally about to go entirely. I can't even control the fan speed of the included Helix140's anymore (which used to be 100% reliable) - they just sit at 0% and will only once in awhile will operate at the specified RPM value. Pretty much stuck waiting on my RMA, which has been underway for over a month now and I still haven't seen as much as a tracking # for my replacement pump. My entire PC upgrade process has been on hold for the last month entirely due to it.

Would be nice to get things back on track


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Seems like the PWM functionality of my H-240X setup is finally about to go entirely. I can't even control the fan speed of the included Helix140's anymore (which used to be 100% reliable) - they just sit at 0% and will only once in awhile will operate at the specified RPM value. Pretty much stuck waiting on my RMA, which has been underway for over a month now and I still haven't seen as much as a tracking # for my replacement pump. My entire PC upgrade process has been on hold for the last month entirely due to it.
> 
> Would be nice to get things back on track


if the fans cannot be controlled seperate from the pump, its likely that's its not either, rather likely more of a problem of either the splitter or the 4 pin header on the motherboard


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> if the fans cannot be controlled seperate from the pump, its likely that's its not either, rather likely more of a problem of either the splitter or the 4 pin header on the motherboard


The fans only behave normally with my pump unplugged. The splitter doesn't need to be plugged into any PWM for this problem to occur, so the 4-pin it's connected to is irrelevant. Tested with 4 different splitters (2 different Swiftech brand ones, 1 Noctua splitter, 1 generic 8-way splitter), same behavior across all splitters. Switched my PSU out too. Took some time but I definitely isolated the issue to the pump. So if any one in the future is reading this post and is experiencing the same symptoms as me (fans stuck at minimum speed with pump in the PWM chain), odds are it's your pump. On the other hand, if my fans were running at 100% instead of 0%, then the issue would be that the my PWM signal doesn't have enough power for all the PWM devices on the chain. I wish my problem was that easy.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> The fans only behave normally with my pump unplugged. The splitter doesn't need to be plugged into any PWM for this problem to occur, so the 4-pin it's connected to is irrelevant. Tested with 4 different splitters (2 different Swiftech brand ones, 1 Noctua splitter, 1 generic 8-way splitter), same behavior across all splitters. Switched my PSU out too. Took some time but I definitely isolated the issue to the pump. So if any one in the future is reading this post and is experiencing the same symptoms as me (fans stuck at minimum speed with pump in the PWM chain), odds are it's your pump. On the other hand, if my fans were running at 100% instead of 0%, then the issue would be that the my PWM signal doesn't have enough power for all the PWM devices on the chain. I wish my problem was that easy.


I read the initial statement as if the fan was tested as the one giving the pwm from the splitter. when mentioning the fans, always test the fans separately to isolate if its only a pump problem. How you worded the original statement, it makes it sound like its a complete pwm problem and not a pump problem on its own in the following statment:
Quote:


> I can't even control the fan speed of the included Helix140's anymore (which used to be 100% reliable)


as it implies the fans are broken too, because it contextually does not mention it being tested separately, nor without pump connected.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I read the initial statement as if the fan was tested as the one giving the pwm from the splitter. when mentioning the fans, always test the fans separately to isolate if its only a pump problem. How you worded the original statement, it makes it sound like its a complete pwm problem and not a pump problem on its own in the following statment:
> as it implies the fans are broken too, because it contextually does not mention it being tested separately, nor without pump connected.


Apologies, my statement was in relation to my previous posts in this thread, so I didn't really include everything in my post, because it's a long story.

When I say that I can't control the fan speed of the included Helix 140's anymore - I mean that initially my Noctua fans stopped working with the H240-X first (but they work fine on their own independently), and in that scenario my Helix 140 fans were still working with the H240-X. So I've been using Helix 140's with my setup since then, but as of now they're behaving the same way my Noctua fans were. Of course, this only applies when the pump is attached.

On the upside of this, Helix 140 fans at 0% still have decent airflow. Noctua fans at 0% simply don't spin, which is a lot more problematic.


----------



## Mattb2e

So I refilled my H220 today, hoping that the air bubble/rushing water sound I hear when the pump is at anything higher than 50% would go away. Unfortunately, it has not changed at all. There were some particulates in the coolant that I emptied out, however I can't get the noise to go away.

I have tried everything I could think of, such as running the loop with the fill cap open, moving the pump around outside the case to dislodge air bubbles, shake the radiator to loosen trapped air, nothing has worked, and the rushing water or air bubble sound is still there and I can't get it to go away.

Any suggestions?


----------



## zila

Did you try hanging the pump real low under the rad to fill it and then slowly turning the pump from side to side? If there is air in there you should hear the gurgle and air come out thru the rad. You have to be patient cause this takes a while. It can take 24 hours or more to purge all that air out. Then turn on the power supply and let it run for a second or two and do it again. You should hear the bubbles traveling up thru the lines. You have to turn the pump on it's side to force the air bubbles out and up the lines. Also try a drop or two of dish washing soap in there.

If you hear a lot wooshing sounds don't let it run like that for long because if the pump is filled with air bubbles it could burn itself out. The liquid cools and lubes the pump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Did you try hanging the pump real low under the rad to fill it and then slowly turning the pump from side to side? If there is air in there you should hear the gurgle and air come out thru the rad. You have to be patient cause this takes a while. It can take 24 hours or more to purge all that air out. Then turn on the power supply and let it run for a second or two and do it again. You should hear the bubbles traveling up thru the lines. You have to turn the pump on it's side to force the air bubbles out and up the lines. Also try a drop or two of dish washing soap in there.
> 
> If you hear a lot wooshing sounds don't let it run like that for long because if the pump is filled with air bubbles it could burn itself out. The liquid cools and lubes the pump.


you can burn up a pump in a matter of seconds off it runs dry I would recommend always keeping it somewhat close to the four installation orientations while moving it around...I've never had an issue getting larger bubbles out this way the rough ones are the micro bubbles that almost sound like a secada....I always start by jumping the psu and filling trying to get a continuous fill without having to cycle the psu on and off...as that introduces air time to settle in places where the water will often flow around it instead of moving it out...but once it's full I replace the fill cap and simply let it run fit a couple minutes keeping an eye in it so no huge bubble runs the pump dry and top it off again...then I start to rock the case every which way...still keeping an eye out for large bubbles...the hardest part it's once it's almost 100 percent full and you have that last little bit that wants to run back into the return tube instead of the fill port...then let it run a couple of hours (up to 6)for leak test...then unjump the psu and plug the 24 pin and ready to rock....in subsequent days check the levels because you will always have small bubbles working out over time..up to a month or so in some cases


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Did you try hanging the pump real low under the rad to fill it and then slowly turning the pump from side to side? If there is air in there you should hear the gurgle and air come out thru the rad. You have to be patient cause this takes a while. It can take 24 hours or more to purge all that air out. Then turn on the power supply and let it run for a second or two and do it again. You should hear the bubbles traveling up thru the lines. You have to turn the pump on it's side to force the air bubbles out and up the lines. Also try a drop or two of dish washing soap in there.
> 
> If you hear a lot wooshing sounds don't let it run like that for long because if the pump is filled with air bubbles it could burn itself out. The liquid cools and lubes the pump.


I filled it with as low as the lines would let me. I did hear gurgling while filling, but havent heard a peep since then. The pump sounds like its leaking water when its run higher than 2000rpm, any higher than that and it gets progressively louder.

I have tried moving the pump every which way with it running, and with it off, and whatever air is in there will not come out. I have even tried squezzing the inlet and outlet tubes near the barbs to try to force the air out, again running and not running. The worst part is with black tubing, you cant see anything.

Im honestly about ready to just order an air cooler and call it a day.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I filled it with as low as the lines would let me. I did hear gurgling while filling, but havent heard a peep since then. The pump sounds like its leaking water when its run higher than 2000rpm, any higher than that and it gets progressively louder.
> 
> I have tried moving the pump every which way with it running, and with it off, and whatever air is in there will not come out. I have even tried squezzing the inlet and outlet tubes near the barbs to try to force the air out, again running and not running. The worst part is with black tubing, you cant see anything.
> 
> Im honestly about ready to just order an air cooler and call it a day.


that sound is usually micro bubbles trapped in the impeller area usually they are the worst to get out...what I do for those would depend on your orientation...but jump the psu and cycle it on until you hear the sound usually starts within a few seconds then tilt the case so the window/impeller is facing up then tap on the pump a bit and look for some small bubbles if they don't come out cycle back off and see if they come out of the impeller opening if so you gotta get those suckers to the fill port before you cycle back on or they easily get sucked back in...if they don't come out leave it running while holding the case window up and break out a bright flashlight and look into the impeller opening you will probably be able to see them unless they are stuck down inside...don't be frustrated and give up the performance is worth it and it gets easier the more times you do it....this is why most people add a permanent fill tube and a secondary res to help with bleeding...the first time I bleed mine it took probably 2 hours and lots of swearing...second time about an hour now I can do the majority of the bleed in 20 minutes or less


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that sound is usually micro bubbles trapped in the impeller area usually they are the worst to get out...what I do for those would depend on your orientation...but jump the psu and cycle it on until you hear the sound usually starts within a few seconds then tilt the case so the window/impeller is facing up then tap on the pump a bit and look for some small bubbles if they don't come out cycle back off and see if they come out of the impeller opening if so you gotta get those suckers to the fill port before you cycle back on or they easily get sucked back in...if they don't come out leave it running while holding the case window up and break out a bright flashlight and look into the impeller opening you will probably be able to see them unless they are stuck down inside...don't be frustrated and give up the performance is worth it and it gets easier the more times you do it....this is why most people add a permanent fill tube and a secondary res to help with bleeding...the first time I bleed mine it took probably 2 hours and lots of swearing...second time about an hour now I can do the majority of the bleed in 20 minutes or less


I am wayyyyy beyond cursing. If I have to take this thing out again, I'm going to be tossing off my second story balcony. Seriously, I have spent the better part of 4 hours trying to get the air out of this thing. I am a very patient person, but this is ridiculous.

I had it to the point where I heard no water rushing noise anymore, I had kept cycling the pump on and off with it as far out as it will go below the radiator. The noise was gone, so I went to reassembly the block onto my cpu, laid the case down, screwed in the block, turned the PC on, and there is the noise back again.

I can't win. The worse part of it all is this noise is the whole reason I emptied the loop and refilled it in the first place. I figured the level was low, and allowed air into the loop, creating the noise.

Who designs something that is meant to be expanded and user serviceable, yet neglects to offer something as simple as a bleed screw?


----------



## zila

Yeah, it's happened to me when I've been a little overzealous about shaking the pump and I wind up turning a couple of normal sized air bubbles into a ton of micro bubbles and then it's a real pain to get them out. How long has this pump been in service? You said you found particles in it before? Did you disassemble the pump and clean it all out? I do this every year with vinegar and distilled water and I no longer use coolant in my system. Distilled water only with a biocide. I have found that my system much cleaner for a longer time and I don't have air bubble problems any more.

Mine are no longer under warranty so I just maintain them myself. When the pumps finally die I will just replace them with the new MCP50X.

If it keeps making noise I'm afraid that maybe your pump has gone bad.

These really aren't that hard to bleed. The fill port is actually your bleed port as well. I always just hold the rad up high and let the pump hang low. What ever air is in there will just naturally go up into the rad and out the port.

If you're having this much trouble with it there is something else wrong.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yeah, it's happened to me when I've been a little overzealous about shaking the pump and I wind up turning a couple of normal sized air bubbles into a ton of micro bubbles and then it's a real pain to get them out. How long has this pump been in service? You said you found particles in it before? Did you disassemble the pump and clean it all out? I do this every year with vinegar and distilled water and I no longer use coolant in my system. Distilled water only with a biocide. I have found that my system much cleaner for a longer time and I don't have air bubble problems any more.
> 
> Mine are no longer under warranty so I just maintain them myself. When the pumps finally die I will just replace them with the new MCP50X.
> 
> If it keeps making noise I'm afraid that maybe your pump has gone bad.
> 
> These really aren't that hard to bleed. The fill port is actually your bleed port as well. I always just hold the rad up high and let the pump hang low. What ever air is in there will just naturally go up into the rad and out the port.
> 
> If you're having this much trouble with it there is something else wrong.


The kit was purchased in April of 2013. The particulates were very small white chunks, not sure what they are. I refilled with distilled and 2 drops of dead water.


----------



## zila

Sounds like you've got a little plasticizer in there. Did you try a drop or two of dish washing liquid in the loop? Run the loop out side of your rig with the pump down low and the fill port open for 24 hours filling as needed.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Sounds like you've got a little plasticizer in there. Did you try a drop or two of dish washing liquid in the loop? Run the loop out side of your rig with the pump down low and the fill port open for 24 hours filling as needed.


Dude are you serious? Dish soap? I just ended what seemed like a lifetime of torment with 2 drops of dish soap. Thank you so much, and I apologize that I didn't try it the first time you mentioned it, had I done that I wouldn't have been here complaining about the noise lol.

It's incredible how something as simple as dish soap can remove that noise, damn near instantaneously.


----------



## zila

I know. It can sometimes be very helpful. I use it all the time. Wait til you see how clean it leaves the insides of your tubes too. It will lube the pump and it is safe to use. Won't hurt the block or anything and it helps to release all of those air bubbles. When I do a yearly cleaning, I completely disassemble the loop and the pump and clean it with white vinegar and distilled water.

When I put it all back together after I know that most of the air bubbles are gone I will then put in a drop or two of dish soap and you can actually see the air bubbles travel up and out thru the rad. Then after a 24 hour run I will add my biocide and seal the system. Every year like clock work. My H220's are completely silent.

I hope your loop will be fine now.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I know. It can sometimes be very helpful. I use it all the time. Wait til you see how clean it leaves the insides of your tubes too. It will lube the pump and it is safe to use. Won't hurt the block or anything and it helps to release all of those air bubbles. When I do a yearly cleaning, I completely disassemble the loop and the pump and clean it with white vinegar and distilled water.
> 
> When I put it all back together after I know that most of the air bubbles are gone I will then put in a drop or two of dish soap and you can actually see the air bubbles travel up and out thru the rad. Then after a 24 hour run I will add my biocide and seal the system. Every year like clock work. My H220's are completely silent.
> 
> I hope your loop will be fine now.


I didn't clean the loop this go around, I however have been considering adding a GPU block at some point, and perhaps a second rad. If that happens, I will be adding a res. so the bleed process will be easier next time.

If I don't do this, I will take apart the loop next year and runs some vinegar through it, flush it with distilled and call it a day. Now that I have had plenty of practice removing the loop from case, it should be a breeze next go around lol.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Heh I didn't mention that because I thought you had tried it when he mentioned before sry







glad you got it sorted...Yeah I can mount mine in about 9 minutes cpu block and all note after about 15 remounts


----------



## zila

Oh yeah, once you've done this a couple times the dis-assembly and cleaning goes very quickly and if you keep the system clean there is very little cleaning to do. It just becomes a quick maintenance procedure to perform every year. That's why I have two of them. When one rig is down for maintenance the other one takes it's place.

Honestly, when I first got my H220 I wasn't very pleased with it. I just didn't have the proper understanding of it but then I learned how to keep it in tip top condition and it has turned out to be the very best cooler I have ever owned. So I bought a second one.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

If only it were that easy to not shatter acrylic when drilling near edges lol...I've now broken 3 attemps for my pump mount but the last two I tried that hole first...back to the drawing board...kind of sad it was gonna be very stealth the pump would have almost appeared to be floating at eye level I guess I'll have to go more traditional square and simple


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Oh yeah, once you've done this a couple times the dis-assembly and cleaning goes very quickly and if you keep the system clean there is very little cleaning to do. It just becomes a quick maintenance procedure to perform every year. That's why I have two of them. When one rig is down for maintenance the other one takes it's place.
> 
> Honestly, when I first got my H220 I wasn't very pleased with it. I just didn't have the proper understanding of it but then I learned how to keep it in tip top condition and it has turned out to be the very best cooler I have ever owned. So I bought a second one.


its one of those things where the first time you do it, it takes several hours, and after each consecutive time, the time it takes to disassemble, reassemble and fill loop shortens. The first time i disassembled my h220 loop took over 8 hours on addition to gpu block and fill. Filling takes a very short time for me now only because i know my own case methods in order how to refill loop. (having had to disassemble it probably 4 times now)


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I didn't clean the loop this go around, I however have been considering adding a GPU block at some point, and perhaps a second rad. If that happens, I will be adding a res. so the bleed process will be easier next time.
> 
> If I don't do this, I will take apart the loop next year and runs some vinegar through it, flush it with distilled and call it a day. Now that I have had plenty of practice removing the loop from case, it should be a breeze next go around lol.


Adding a reservoir probably won't do much good with these AIO coolers unless you somehow can manage to keep that reservoir above the original reservoir/pump combo. Else you'll just be facing the same issues. The only difference is it might be easier to fill, but that's hardly worth spending cash on. That means it would only work well with the AIO mounted in the front standing up using a bay reservoir above it.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Adding a reservoir probably won't do much good with these AIO coolers unless you somehow can manage to keep that reservoir above the original reservoir/pump combo. Else you'll just be facing the same issues. The only difference is it might be easier to fill, but that's hardly worth spending cash on. That means it would only work well with the AIO mounted in the front standing up using a bay reservoir above it.


Noted, I wanted to add the reservoir so that it is easier to see the fluid level, and add as needed, as well as be able to see the bubbles as they are purged. Sadly, I cannot fit a 240mm rad in the front of my case, otherwise I would be down like a car with 4 flat tires. At this point it's all a pipe dream, I suppose if I were to expand at any point, it would be in my best interest to just sell the H220, and make a custom loop again. Just not a RASA kit this time lol.

I started out my watercooling adventures with a Raystorm kit, the pump failed in a month. Thank goodness for thermal protection and throttling.


----------



## zila

Hey Matt, just go to clear tubing and then you'll be able to see what's going on in there.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Hey Matt, just go to clear tubing and then you'll be able to see what's going on in there.


This is probably the easiest way, but the issue with that is once I have bought new tubing, then I will want to buy other new WC parts. Tubing is a gateway purchase







.


----------



## zila

I understand.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand.


Now I have spent two days looking at parts. I picked out a GPU block, a 200mm rad, fittings and tubing. $241 after tax, see why replacing tubing is not cheap?









I haven't ordered anything yet, but I am certainly itching to......

Edit:

I contacted Modmymods about tubing that they sell via there online contact form. Not only did I get a very fast response, but the CEO/Founder was the one that responded to me, at 8PM! I am really looking forward to doing business with this company, they are obviously invested in the community, and want to provide a good service.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Noted, I wanted to add the reservoir so that it is easier to see the fluid level, and add as needed, as well as be able to see the bubbles as they are purged. Sadly, I cannot fit a 240mm rad in the front of my case, otherwise I would be down like a car with 4 flat tires. At this point it's all a pipe dream, I suppose if I were to expand at any point, it would be in my best interest to just sell the H220, and make a custom loop again. Just not a RASA kit this time lol.
> 
> I started out my watercooling adventures with a Raystorm kit, the pump failed in a month. Thank goodness for thermal protection and throttling.


Oh for some reason I had the impression your AIO was an H220-X, but is instead the old H220? If that's the case there should be no problem for you mounting a bay reservoir with the AIO mounted anywhere you please, as the reservoir would be above the pump in most situations anyway. Since the H220 doesn't have a reservoir the pump housing acts as one, just make sure the reservoir you add is above it.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Oh for some reason I had the impression your AIO was an H220-X, but is instead the old H220? If that's the case there should be no problem for you mounting a bay reservoir with the AIO mounted anywhere you please, as the reservoir would be above the pump in most situations anyway. Since the H220 doesn't have a reservoir the pump housing acts as one, just make sure the reservoir you add is above it.


Yeah, original H220, the reservoir is part of the radiator end tank. So then a bay reservoir wouldnt be a bad idea then.


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

I forget just WHERE I saw it ... but I remember seeing someone attached a 90 degree fitting and fill port on the end of their Swiftech and then had it poking up through the grate hole venting at the top of the case. Not the worst idea IF you have something like a Corsair case that has the magnetic dust cover over the grate holes that would hide this.









Something like this ... 

it's the ONLY real way I can see that your FILL TUBE for SURE is the highest point of the loop ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> I forget just WHERE I saw it ... but I remember seeing someone attached a 90 degree fitting and fill port on the end of their Swiftech and then had it poking up through the grate hole venting at the top of the case. Not the worst idea IF you have something like a Corsair case that has the magnetic dust cover over the grate holes that would hide this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this ...
> 
> it's the ONLY real way I can see that your FILL TUBE for SURE is the highest point of the loop ?


you can always attach a fitting to the fillport and a length of hose with a stop fitting


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Oh for some reason I had the impression your AIO was an H220-X, but is instead the old H220? If that's the case there should be no problem for you mounting a bay reservoir with the AIO mounted anywhere you please, as the reservoir would be above the pump in most situations anyway. Since the H220 doesn't have a reservoir the pump housing acts as one, just make sure the reservoir you add is above it.


The h220 res is built into the rad. I own one. Pump acting as res wouldnt really work?? I personall think the original h220 design is much better in principle. And going by this thread seem less buggy.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I personall think the original h220 design is much better in principle. And going by this thread seem less buggy.


You need to go back further in this thread. The original H220 was incredibly buggy when compared to the H220-X.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> The h220 res is built into the rad. I own one. Pump acting as res wouldnt really work?? I personall think the original h220 design is much better in principle. And going by this thread seem less buggy.


You are right of course. I somehow remembered the construction of the H220 wrong (I never owned one either). He would still have to mount the H220 in a vertical position for a reservoir to work well.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> You are right of course. I somehow remembered the construction of the H220 wrong (I never owned one either). He would still have to mount the H220 in a vertical position for a reservoir to work well.


H220 doesnt work best vertical. Horizontal like in my pic works best from my personal experience. Air gets trapped in the top of the res part better


----------



## Mattb2e

I have my radiator with the fill port facing up, it's not accessible with my current case unless I remove the radiator from the case. A front bay reservoir would be much easier to manage.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> I forget just WHERE I saw it ... but I remember seeing someone attached a 90 degree fitting and fill port on the end of their Swiftech and then had it poking up through the grate hole venting at the top of the case. Not the worst idea IF you have something like a Corsair case that has the magnetic dust cover over the grate holes that would hide this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this ...
> 
> it's the ONLY real way I can see that your FILL TUBE for SURE is the highest point of the loop ?


This is exactly what I planned to do with my case (932 HAF) whenever they get the water blocks back in stock for the 980 Ti.


----------



## smithydan

Guys, for the h140/220/240x do I need a res or the res on the swiftech bleeds out air good enough already?

Also, is the pump enough to handle a itself, a 360 45mm thick rad and one or two gpu blocks?

Thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Guys, for the h140/220/240x do I need a res or the res on the swiftech bleeds out air good enough already?
> 
> Also, is the pump enough to handle a itself, a 360 45mm thick rad and one or two gpu blocks?
> 
> Thanks.


The pump in these kits will be sufficient with the additions you're considering, but for two graphics cards you might want to consider adding in another pump. Adding another reservoir will also aid with bleeding. I hope this answers your questions.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> The pump in these kits will be sufficient with the additions you're considering, but for two graphics cards you might want to consider adding in another pump. Adding another reservoir will also aid with bleeding. I hope this answers your questions.


Thanks.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Are the Swiftech coolers compatible with socket LGA1151?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Are the Swiftech coolers compatible with socket LGA1151?


Socket 115X are fully supported by our kits. I hope this answers your question.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Socket 115X are fully supported by our kits. I hope this answers your question.


Thank you


----------



## j0ewhite

Anyone with a Corsair 450D and Dominator Platinum RAM on an ATX board? Does the H220-X fit?

I'm worried that the ram heatsink will be in the way. Thanks.


----------



## Yvese

Would the 220x be enough if I add a 980 ti to the loop? Or would I need to add another rad? This is assuming a 1450-1500 core OC.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Would the 220x be enough if I add a 980 ti to the loop? Or would I need to add another rad? This is assuming a 1450-1500 core OC.


I would say an additional 240mm if you are going to overclock...if not you may be limited by thermals..


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0ewhite*
> 
> Anyone with a Corsair 450D and Dominator Platinum RAM on an ATX board? Does the H220-X fit?
> 
> I'm worried that the ram heatsink will be in the way. Thanks.


Should be fine .... I have the 450D ... but not that RAM ... but the Swiftech unit really isn't in the way of the RAM as much as you have to worry where your 4/8 pin MoBo power connector sits on the board, That tends to be the biggest clearance concern.


----------



## thegreatgarp

Hey guys I recently purchased a H240X and plan to cool my 3770k and gtx 980 with it.
My 3770k is oc'd at 4.5ghz and my gtx 980 is still set at stock speeds.

It will be going into my NZXT S340. I have seen a guy do a similar setup


My question is that his fill port is blocked and he told me that to fill the loop he had to rotate his
system upside down and unscrew the rad, however is it possible to connect a tube to the fill port and have a
valve at the end of it? It wont necessary eliminate the process of flipping the case but it would help with unscrewing the rad.
Also is it possible to attach a reservoir using this AIO? If so how so? Theres only really 1 place I can mount a res but Im unsure how
the loop setup would be.

Sorry if im asking too much questions, this will be my first watercooling loop and this is also my first post on the forum.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Dhdiei5488

Hi

I have a H220, been using it for a while, but I would like to upgrade to some more serious watercooling;

I'm wondering if :

the H220 barbs could be used with hard line tubing ?
The H220 block could have the pump removed and let me use it as a simple cpu block ?
The H220 pump could be used externally ?
I don't have much money, but I'm considering hard line if it's cheap enough


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mihemine*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have a H220, been using it for a while, but I would like to upgrade to some more serious watercooling;
> 
> I'm wondering if :
> 
> the H220 barbs could be used with hard line tubing ?
> The H220 block could have the pump removed and let me use it as a simple cpu block ?
> The H220 pump could be used externally ?
> I don't have much money, but I'm considering hard line if it's cheap enough


[*] the H220 barbs could be used with hard line tubing ? *No, i believe you need to use a compression fittings for hard tubing*
[*] The H220 block could have the pump removed and let me use it as a simple cpu block ?*No, the CPU block and pump are integrated. It can be disassembled, but cannot be seperated and run like two seperate components.*
[*] The H220 pump could be used externally ? *No, see above.*


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> [*] the H220 barbs could be used with hard line tubing ? *No, i believe you need to use a compression fittings for hard tubing*
> [*] The H220 block could have the pump removed and let me use it as a simple cpu block ?*No, the CPU block and pump are integrated. It can be disassembled, but cannot be seperated and run like two seperate components.*
> [*] The H220 pump could be used externally ? *No, see above.*


Just to clarify one point -

The pump/block can be used separately as a pump only. It would remain in the housing, but there is no issue with doing that.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just to clarify one point -
> 
> The pump/block can be used separately as a pump only. It would remain in the housing, but there is no issue with doing that.


I suppose thia is correct, considering you could just have the block just hanging out.


----------



## LeMakisar

Hi everyone,

My H240X pump is really noisy, in a sense that it emits vibrations that goes through my case :s
It's clearly audible and it bothers me, not that my case is very quiet, but still
I guess this is normal, but I'd rather ask than wait for the pump to commit suicide ^^

I have a cosmos 2, any advice on vibrations reduction ? maybe some rubber pads along the radiator ?

I placed the case metal between the radiator and the fans, was it a bad idea ?









Also, I was wondering, pump lifespan should be better using smart fan, or putting it at 100% all the time ?
Noise at 100% is not that bad (in fact, it's almost quieter)

On the pros side, OMG have I gained more than 15° under OCCT from my old NH-D15 !!!! Sweet









thanks !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeMakisar*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> My H240X pump is really noisy, in a sense that it emits vibrations that goes through my case :s
> It's clearly audible and it bothers me, not that my case is very quiet, but still
> I guess this is normal, but I'd rather ask than wait for the pump to commit suicide ^^
> 
> I have a cosmos 2, any advice on vibrations reduction ? maybe some rubber pads along the radiator ?
> 
> I placed the case metal between the radiator and the fans, was it a bad idea ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I was wondering, pump lifespan should be better using smart fan, or putting it at 100% all the time ?
> Noise at 100% is not that bad (in fact, it's almost quieter)
> 
> On the pros side, OMG have I gained more than 15° under OCCT from my old NH-D15 !!!! Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks !


Does this happen at all pump speeds, or only in a specific range?

You could try a gasket to isolate the vibrations a bit, so you are not metal-to-metal - http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-280mm-radiator-gasket.html


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeMakisar*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> My H240X pump is really noisy, in a sense that it emits vibrations that goes through my case :s
> It's clearly audible and it bothers me, not that my case is very quiet, but still
> I guess this is normal, but I'd rather ask than wait for the pump to commit suicide ^^
> 
> I have a cosmos 2, any advice on vibrations reduction ? maybe some rubber pads along the radiator ?
> 
> I placed the case metal between the radiator and the fans, was it a bad idea ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I was wondering, pump lifespan should be better using smart fan, or putting it at 100% all the time ?
> Noise at 100% is not that bad (in fact, it's almost quieter)
> 
> On the pros side, OMG have I gained more than 15° under OCCT from my old NH-D15 !!!! Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks !


I've ran mine at 100 percent all it's life...aside from about four hours of testing to make sure it worked at all speeds...for over a year...I also have it running at its ragged edge of the pumps capabilities right now and it's never missed a beat...not that I would recommend pushing it that far...(3 rads two gpu full cover blocks cpu block and extra reservoir)


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegreatgarp*
> 
> Hey guys I recently purchased a H240X and plan to cool my 3770k and gtx 980 with it.
> My 3770k is oc'd at 4.5ghz and my gtx 980 is still set at stock speeds.
> 
> It will be going into my NZXT S340. I have seen a guy do a similar setup
> 
> 
> My question is that his fill port is blocked and he told me that to fill the loop he had to rotate his
> system upside down and unscrew the rad, however is it possible to connect a tube to the fill port and have a
> valve at the end of it? It wont necessary eliminate the process of flipping the case but it would help with unscrewing the rad.
> Also is it possible to attach a reservoir using this AIO? If so how so? Theres only really 1 place I can mount a res but Im unsure how
> the loop setup would be.
> 
> Sorry if im asking too much questions, this will be my first watercooling loop and this is also my first post on the forum.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You could flip it the other way and remove the bracket, or raise the h240x to give you more room to connect a tube to the fill port and make it both a drain and fill area, you should just have to turn the case on a side to fill.

I was talking to a friend about this but a visual is really good now we can see, can you link me to his post?


----------



## LeMakisar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Does this happen at all pump speeds, or only in a specific range?
> 
> You could try a gasket to isolate the vibrations a bit, so you are not metal-to-metal - http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-280mm-radiator-gasket.html


Oh, I didn't think of that you're right !
It's really at all speeds, but you can "feel" the vibrations more or less depending on the speed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I've ran mine at 100 percent all it's life...aside from about four hours of testing to make sure it worked at all speeds...for over a year...I also have it running at its ragged edge of the pumps capabilities right now and it's never missed a beat...not that I would recommend pushing it that far...(3 rads two gpu full cover blocks cpu block and extra reservoir)


In fact I'm "worried" that the pump changing speed all the time would wear out faster ... but really, I don't have a clue on such things


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeMakisar*
> 
> Oh, I didn't think of that you're right !
> It's really at all speeds, but you can "feel" the vibrations more or less depending on the speed
> In fact I'm "worried" that the pump changing speed all the time would wear out faster ... but really, I don't have a clue on such things


as far as I know it changing speeds won't wear it any faster...if anything the heat from running it flat out is probably more likely than changing speeds with temperature because it won't change like from 50 to 100 percent really fast..it's gradual as your temps rise....these pumps are designed to vary speed or run at a constant they also don't require heat sinks like some of the pumps do


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeMakisar*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> My H240X pump is really noisy, in a sense that it emits vibrations that goes through my case :s
> It's clearly audible and it bothers me, not that my case is very quiet, but still
> I guess this is normal, but I'd rather ask than wait for the pump to commit suicide ^^
> 
> I have a cosmos 2, any advice on vibrations reduction ? maybe some rubber pads along the radiator ?
> 
> I placed the case metal between the radiator and the fans, was it a bad idea ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I was wondering, pump lifespan should be better using smart fan, or putting it at 100% all the time ?
> Noise at 100% is not that bad (in fact, it's almost quieter)
> 
> On the pros side, OMG have I gained more than 15° under OCCT from my old NH-D15 !!!! Sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks !


I recommend running Speedfan to adjust the pump speed at lower temps, and setup a custom fan curve. I have mine running 10%, or about 1300rpm below 60c. This makes the pump and fans inaudible at no load situations. You shouldn't ever need to run your pump at 100%, at least with just a CPU loop at low loads.
The recommendation for a gasket is also another idea, or even rubber fan grommets. Good luck!


----------



## thegreatgarp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> You could flip it the other way and remove the bracket, or raise the h240x to give you more room to connect a tube to the fill port and make it both a drain and fill area, you should just have to turn the case on a side to fill.
> 
> I was talking to a friend about this but a visual is really good now we can see, can you link me to his post?




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3i9wrx/project_venom_nzxt_s340swiftech_h240x_build/

I was actually planning on doing so, but rather than raising the rad to fit a fitting i was planning to use a cutting tool and removing some of the bottom grill then using a acrylic black sheet to cover everything up. I will then connect a fitting + short length tube + mini valve on it and use it as a fill/bleed/drain port. Is this theoretically viable?


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> The H220-X is listed at Coolerkit Denmark for 1250 DKK which converts to 167 Euros. These units are way overpriced in Europe. I live in the Netherlands and am not too happy with Highflow. I buy as little as possible from them because they charge high shippingrates plus additional 3.4 % for Paypal. Service and warranty is not so great either. When I see the many mods going on for the H240X discussed here like different different tubing and CPU blocks I think I gonna start with a MCR140X drive and a EK Supremacy MX waterblock plus tubing, fittings fans and coolant of my liking. I probably go with brandless fittings, cause brandnames add only costs. Bitspower might look good but cost 3 to 4 times as much as brandless ones. I gonna add an additional 240 or 280 radiator too.


I agree. Definitely do not buy from Highflow. Their prices are exorbitant; it costs €196 to ship to the UK whereas it is only €156 inc postage from Coolerkit which took 4 day to arrive. The other point is that as of writing Highflow were still selling the ones with plastic shiny tubes which give the plasticizer issue but Coolerkit are selling the matt rubber tubing. Even if you live in Holland (right next to Highflow office) you will be better off and spend much less money getting it from Coolerkit in Denmark, nevermind anywhere else in Europe.

PS It's €139 now http://www.coolerkit.com/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html?key=01SW014&track=searchdbprodukter


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> I recommend running Speedfan to adjust the pump speed at lower temps, and setup a custom fan curve. I have mine running 10%, or about 1300rpm below 60c. This makes the pump and fans inaudible at no load situations. You shouldn't ever need to run your pump at 100%, at least with just a CPU loop at low loads.
> The recommendation for a gasket is also another idea, or even rubber fan grommets. Good luck!


I don't use speedfan but have it set up in the bios. Do you really set the pump to 10%? I have mine at 30% below 60C. 50% for anything higher. I've been wondering what's the max speed before anything higher would make little to no difference. This is with just the stock kit, nothing added.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> I don't use speedfan but have it set up in the bios. Do you really set the pump to 10%? I have mine at 30% below 60C. 50% for anything higher. I've been wondering what's the max speed before anything higher would make little to no difference. This is with just the stock kit, nothing added.


Yeah, i have it set to 10% because that is the lowest pump setting. When the temp increases to about 60c, i ramp it up.

The 10% isnt actually 10% pump speed. Its roughly equivalent to the lowest speed that the pump pwm controller will let you go, which in my case equates to about 1300rpm.

If i remember correctly 1300rpm is the minimum pump speed on a H220.


----------



## kgd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mihemine*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have a H220, been using it for a while, but I would like to upgrade to some more serious watercooling;
> 
> I'm wondering if :
> 
> the H220 barbs could be used with hard line tubing ?
> The H220 block could have the pump removed and let me use it as a simple cpu block ?
> The H220 pump could be used externally ?
> I don't have much money, but I'm considering hard line if it's cheap enough


Regarding the pump / volt mod see this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/380660/my-swiftech-h20-220-compact-kit-transformed


----------



## Dhdiei5488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgd1*
> 
> Regarding the pump / volt mod see this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/380660/my-swiftech-h20-220-compact-kit-transformed


Nice thanks
was looking for this kind of mod


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgd1*
> 
> Regarding the pump / volt mod see this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/380660/my-swiftech-h20-220-compact-kit-transformed


Isn't the pump/block on the h20-220 different than the H220?


----------



## Methodical

I ordered the Komodo water block and back plate for my 980 Ti. Anyone have any experience with these water blocks that can offer up some opinions?

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I ordered the Komodo water block and back plate for my 980 Ti. Anyone have any experience with these water blocks that can offer up some opinions?
> 
> Thanks


I don't have the 980 one but I own two komodo le blocks for my 290s and they do pretty good...if there's one area they aren't amazing at its vrm cooling but it's not high or anything just not as low as a few other blocks...but they do look slick...if you plan to use red (unless they've fixed it) I'd recommend finding a darker material to make a strip out of the red looks orange...but the blue and green as well as without a strip looks as expected


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I don't have the 980 one but I own two komodo le blocks for my 290s and they do pretty good...if there's one area they aren't amazing at its vrm cooling but it's not high or anything just not as low as a few other blocks...but they do look slick...if you plan to use red (unless they've fixed it) I'd recommend finding a darker material to make a strip out of the red looks orange...but the blue and green as well as without a strip looks as expected


Interesting, as even in swiftech's pic's the Komodo RED block looked too light a red almost orange as you said. IS there enough room to install TWO of the RED strips inside the block to double up on the REDness ?

As for the VRM's I know the xtremerigs review had the Komodo R9 LE as having poor performance at cooling the VRM's ... BUT it appeared they installed the unit maybe wrong ? as also their results seemed out of line with every other results published ? so ??? but I know someone maybe in this thread suggested installing different thicker Thermal Pads to the back plate to improve VRM temps even over Swiftech's published results, which seemed good, so again ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> Interesting, as even in swiftech's pic's the Komodo RED block looked too light a red almost orange as you said. IS there enough room to install TWO of the RED strips inside the block to double up on the REDness ?
> 
> As for the VRM's I know the xtremerigs review had the Komodo R9 LE as having poor performance at cooling the VRM's ... BUT it appeared they installed the unit maybe wrong ? as also their results seemed out of line with every other results published ? so ??? but I know someone maybe in this thread suggested installing different thicker Thermal Pads to the back plate to improve VRM temps even over Swiftech's published results, which seemed good, so again ?


you might could install a second strip but that may or may not help with the color...my vrm temps are fine with as much of an overclock as my cards will handle....it's not that it's poor performance it is just a few c more than some of the others...I'm not sure thicker pads will help as the block and backplate are machined so the thickness of pads should remain within their tolerances otherwise I'm not sure the contact will be the best other places but that's not to say there might not be better pads in that thickness that could be used...my temperatures are pretty much in line with swiftechs results but slightly higher due to my own fault (suffering from lack of flow due to my lazyness in not installing my second pump yet and I have a fan rigged to cool one half of my 280 rad because I broke the cable and haven't resoldered it yet)...


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I don't have the 980 one but I own two komodo le blocks for my 290s and they do pretty good...if there's one area they aren't amazing at its vrm cooling but it's not high or anything just not as low as a few other blocks...but they do look slick...if you plan to use red (unless they've fixed it) I'd recommend finding a darker material to make a strip out of the red looks orange...but the blue and green as well as without a strip looks as expected


Thanks for the response. I don't have the LE version as it seems they don't make them anymore, so the color thing won't be a concern. This is my 1st time going water, so just trying to get a feel for things. Btw, if you know of any water setup how tos, I'd appreciate any info.

Al


----------



## rfarmer

I have a question for all you Swiftech gurus, I am looking to buy a H240X and I am wondering if it will be enough when I add a gpu loop or should I also add an additional radiator. I have a i5 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and a MSI GTX 970, thinking about a mild OC on the graphics card. Comments and suggestions are most welcome.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a question for all you Swiftech gurus, I am looking to buy a H240X and I am wondering if it will be enough when I add a gpu loop or should I also add an additional radiator. I have a i5 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and a MSI GTX 970, thinking about a mild OC on the graphics card. Comments and suggestions are most welcome.


While a 280mm may seem a little short for this, it will work and should produce very acceptable temps. I have done testing with a 4770K @ 4.6 and GTX 780 on an H240-X, and results were similar to having top end air (or a 240mm CLC without the horrific noise) on the CPU with excellent temps on the GPU (never broke ~52C).

A second rad would net better temps, but you would start with just the H240-X and see how it goes, then add a rad if you feel it necessary.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgd1*
> 
> Regarding the pump / volt mod see this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/380660/my-swiftech-h20-220-compact-kit-transformed


The H20-220 is not an H220 kit. You can't use swap the pumps from these kits because they aren't compatible with one another.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> While a 280mm may seem a little short for this, it will work and should produce very acceptable temps. I have done testing with a 4770K @ 4.6 and GTX 780 on an H240-X, and results were similar to having top end air (or a 240mm CLC without the horrific noise) on the CPU with excellent temps on the GPU (never broke ~52C).
> 
> A second rad would net better temps, but you would start with just the H240-X and see how it goes, then add a rad if you feel it necessary.


I have a small case with only 330mm of space, I can fit a H220-X with an additional 140mm rad and fan on the rear, but not enough room for the H240-X and additional radiator. Just wondering which one I should go with.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a small case with only 330mm of space, I can fit a H220-X with an additional 140mm rad and fan on the rear, but not enough room for the H240-X and additional radiator. Just wondering which one I should go with.


generally speaking, you should go with the setup with the most radiator surface area. Therefore, the H220x and a 140mm radiator should provide better temps. The question is what sort of delta will you see between these two setups, and does that difference justify the cost in your opinion.?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> generally speaking, you should go with the setup with the most radiator surface area. Therefore, the H220x and a 140mm radiator should provide better temps. The question is what sort of delta will you see between these two setups, and does that difference justify the cost in your opinion.?


Thanks for the reply, think I will probably go with the H220-X and the additional 140mm rad, just to be on the safe side. Although saving money is always a good thing.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, think I will probably go with the H220-X and the additional 140mm rad, just to be on the safe side. Although saving money is always a good thing.


Agreed, i am in the same predicament, im torn between getting a gpu block and a 200mm rad, or just a gpu block and hoping for the best.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Agreed, i am in the same predicament, im torn between getting a gpu block and a 200mm rad, or just a gpu block and hoping for the best.


I am running a Corsair h105 at the moment and it actually works very well for my cpu cooling, 28C idle and 58C load. The problem is my gpu, it idles at 45C and can hit 80C during games. I actually upped the fan curve to 100% at 80C to try and keep the temps down, so now it is getting looud too. I really want to keep my temps on the gpu down. I have to admit if I could get 52C at load I would be happy.

Even if I go with the H220-X and the 140mm rad plus gpu block it is still a considerable savings over doing a complete custom loop, which is where I started when checking prices, I will save $100 using the Swiftech over individual parts.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am running a Corsair h105 at the moment and it actually works very well for my cpu cooling, 28C idle and 58C load. The problem is my gpu, it idles at 45C and can hit 80C during games. I actually upped the fan curve to 100% at 80C to try and keep the temps down, so now it is getting looud too. I really want to keep my temps on the gpu down. I have to admit if I could get 52C at load I would be happy.
> 
> Even if I go with the H220-X and the 140mm rad plus gpu block it is still a considerable savings over doing a complete custom loop, which is where I started when checking prices, I will save $100 using the Swiftech over individual parts.


This is true, and with the H220 i can do the same. I am not overclocking on either GPU or CPU, so i think the H220 would be sufficient, however, the extra 200mm rad would give me some extra headroom to overclock that i do not currently have. My GPU runs about 75c and my cpu is usually around 60-65c right now


----------



## Methodical

Hey everyone. I need some advice. I have the Swiftech 220x AIO, however, I have decided that I want go in another direction. I want to build a custom water loop. I know the 220x can be expanded, but I like the 5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump setup better, plus I can install the 360 radiator up top for more cooling area. I've been reviewing swiftech's drive bays reservoirs and pumps, but I don't know which to get because I am not sure of the quality of the products. I am new to this, so I have been reading and watching lots of "how to" videos, but there's so much to choose from. I figured you'll have been doing this for a long time and most likely have experience with different manufacturers products. Below is what I'd like to build. Also, I'd like to use PWMs where possible. I plan to use the 220x fans, cpu block and pwm splitter for the build. I'd appreciate any insight Note: I've already order the the Komodo gpu block and backplate, which should be here tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with Swiftech's 5-1/4 drive bad reservoir and pump combination? Which of there pump would be best for a cpu/gpu loop?

Case: HAF 932
GPU: 980 Ti

5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump (near top)
360 radiator at the top
140 radiator at the rear
120 radiator on the bottom (maybe, not sure yet)

https://www.swiftech.com/pumps.aspx

Thanks...Al


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hey everyone. I need some advice. I have the Swiftech 220x AIO, however, I have decided that I want go in another direction. I want to build a custom water loop. I know the 220x can be expanded, but I like the 5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump setup better, plus I can install the 360 radiator up top for more cooling area. I've been reviewing swiftech's drive bays reservoirs and pumps, but I don't know which to get because I am not sure of the quality of the products. I am new to this, so I have been reading and watching lots of "how to" videos, but there's so much to choose from. I figured you'll have been doing this for a long time and most likely have experience with different manufacturers products. Below is what I'd like to build. Also, I'd like to use PWMs where possible. I plan to use the 220x fans, cpu block and pwm splitter for the build. I'd appreciate any insight Note: I've already order the the Komodo gpu block and backplate, which should be here tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with Swiftech's 5-1/4 drive bad reservoir and pump combination? Which of there pump would be best for a cpu/gpu loop?
> 
> Case: HAF 932
> GPU: 980 Ti
> 
> 5 1/4 drive bay reservoir and pump (near top)
> 360 radiator at the top
> 140 radiator at the rear
> 120 radiator on the bottom (maybe, not sure yet)
> 
> https://www.swiftech.com/pumps.aspx
> 
> Thanks...Al


I believe you're asking about our Maelstrom V2 bay reservoir and pump unit. This is currently the only one that we carry. The older Maelstrom with either a single or dual MCP35X has been discontinued for some time now. I hope this helps narrow your search.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I believe you're asking about our Maelstrom V2 bay reservoir and pump unit. This is currently the only one that we carry. The older Maelstrom with either a single or dual MCP35X has been discontinued for some time now. I hope this helps narrow your search.


Yes that's the unit I am looking at. Question, what is the difference between the 35x and 50x pumps besides price? To be clear, you no longer build the reservoir with 35x pump - correct? So, this pump would have to be used with a different style reservoir?

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Yes that's the unit I am looking at. Question, what is the difference between the 35x and 50x pumps besides price? To be clear, you no longer build the reservoir with 35x pump - correct? So, this pump would have to be used with a different style reservoir?
> 
> Thanks


mcp50x has quite a bit more head pressure... meaning more flow...and if im not mistaken i think it has higher rpm range too?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> mcp50x has quite a bit more head pressure... meaning more flow...and if im not mistaken i think it has higher rpm range too?


Yes, that's correct. The 50X has a maximum RPM range of 4500.


----------



## Methodical

Thanks ^^I went with the reservoir pump combo and I got my gpu block and back plate today. The water loop build is coming to life.


----------



## d0mmie

I'm having a bit of an issue with micro bubbles in my loop consisting of an H240-X and a Titan X water block. Temperatures are excellent, getting about 55 degrees Celsius on CPU and 50-60 on GPU. The only problem is there's a slight rattle noise going on in the pump due to this. Not a huge deal as my chassis and fans seems to deafen the noise mostly. I just wonder if this is something that will go away with time. I have done every trick in the book to get the air out of my system, using dishwater soap and pushing the air out through the fill port.

Any advice or just wait and see what happens?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I'm having a bit of an issue with micro bubbles in my loop consisting of an H240-X and a Titan X water block. Temperatures are excellent, getting about 55 degrees Celsius on CPU and 50-60 on GPU. The only problem is there's a slight rattle noise going on in the pump due to this. Not a huge deal as my chassis and fans seems to deafen the noise mostly. I just wonder if this is something that will go away with time. I have done every trick in the book to get the air out of my system, using dishwater soap and pushing the air out through the fill port.
> 
> Any advice or just wait and see what happens?


This is simply some air noise that will dissipate and go away with time. If the noise becomes worse, or doesn't go away after about a week, please PM me and let me know.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is simply some air noise that will dissipate and go away with time. If the noise becomes worse, or doesn't go away after about a week, please PM me and let me know.


I've also noticed these micro bubbles eventually come together and push through the loop leaving just a little air bubble in the top of the res that you can't see when mounted horizontal unless you get at about 160 degree angle or tilt case/unit...but I'm anal about things so I force it to the port and keep it 100 percent full so I know if I'm evaporating or pulling in air from somewhere


----------



## Dango

Hey guys, I am the new guy who taking over from Bryan for Swiftech Support. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Hey guys, I am the new guy who taking over from Bryan for Swiftech Support. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


so is this effective starting now or will there be overlap?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> so is this effective starting now or will there be overlap?


Yes, there will be an overlap. I'll still be with the company until the 17th. Dango will still be using my email address after I'm gone though and I'll still be on OCN.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Yes, there will be an overlap. I'll still be with the company until the 17th. Dango will still be using my email address after I'm gone though and I'll still be on OCN.


Cool thanks good to know...what are you moving on to do?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Cool thanks good to know...what are you moving on to do?


iirc he wanted to move to germany to further his education (or something like that)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Cool thanks good to know...what are you moving on to do?


I'm leaving for Germany, finally, at the end of this month. I was accepted to the Univerity of Hohenheim to work on my masters degree in economics. My ultimate goal is to eventually go to work for the UN and help them devise better economic regulations that will benefit emerging markets.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm leaving for Germany, finally, at the end of this month. I was accepted to the Univerity of Hohenheim to work on my masters degree in economics. My ultimate goal is to eventually go to work for the UN and help them devise better economic regulations that will benefit emerging markets.


oh nice...lofty goal but a very focused one...best of luck to you and hopefully you can help us and other countries grow closer relations through this...the better and less problematic the regulations are the more likely someone is to go worldwide instead of exclusivity which limits potential


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm leaving for Germany, finally, at the end of this month. I was accepted to the Univerity of Hohenheim to work on my masters degree in economics. My ultimate goal is to eventually go to work for the UN and help them devise better economic regulations that will benefit emerging markets.


Wish you the best of luck


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Hey guys, I am the new guy who taking over from Bryan for Swiftech Support. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.


Welcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> so is this effective starting now or will there be overlap?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there will be an overlap. I'll still be with the company until the 17th. Dango will still be using my email address after I'm gone though and I'll still be on OCN.
Click to expand...

keep in touch old friend


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> oh nice...lofty goal but a very focused one...best of luck to you and hopefully you can help us and other countries grow closer relations through this...the better and less problematic the regulations are the more likely someone is to go worldwide instead of exclusivity which limits potential


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Wish you the best of luck


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Welcome
> keep in touch old friend


Thanks! I appreciate it and I will still be active on here for those that need advice and basic support. I'm an enthusiast and that isn't going to change.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is simply some air noise that will dissipate and go away with time. If the noise becomes worse, or doesn't go away after about a week, please PM me and let me know.


Thanks for the reply BramSLI1 and good luck with your studies in Germany.

The thing that is bothering me though, is I'm getting a sort of grinding noise even when the pump is at lowest rpm. I have to speed up my fans in order not to hear it. This is actually my second H240-X, the old one had some annoying problems as well, but the pump was silent as a whisper compared to this one. This new one actually causes a lot of resonance into the radiator, and I had to install a XSPC 3mm gasket on the radiator in order to dampen the vibrations into the chassis. If this problem persist would it be best to shoot a video of it and contact Bryan on the Swiftech forums?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Thanks for the reply BramSLI1 and good luck with your studies in Germany.
> 
> The thing that is bothering me though, is I'm getting a sort of grinding noise even when the pump is at lowest rpm. I have to speed up my fans in order not to hear it. This is actually my second H240-X, the old one had some annoying problems as well, but the pump was silent as a whisper compared to this one. This new one actually causes a lot of resonance into the radiator, and I had to install a XSPC 3mm gasket on the radiator in order to dampen the vibrations into the chassis. If this problem persist would it be best to shoot a video of it and contact Bryan on the Swiftech forums?


I'm Bryan on the Swiftech forums, so that will be taken over by Dango as well. He's now also taken over my emails here and so emailing me at Swiftech will be answered by him, until he gets his own email set up.

Have you tried adding a drop of dish soap to your coolant?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm Bryan on the Swiftech forums, so that will be taken over by Dango as well. He's now also taken over my emails here and so emailing me at Swiftech will be answered by him, until he gets his own email set up.
> 
> Have you tried adding a drop of dish soap to your coolant?


Yes dishwater soap was the first thing I added when I filled the loop. Sometimes if I press my thumb on the backside of the pump near the left bottom screw, the resonance goes away. It's not a sure thing though. Kinda like the wind blows.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Yes dishwater soap was the first thing I added when I filled the loop. Sometimes if I press my thumb on the backside of the pump near the left bottom screw, the resonance goes away. It's not a sure thing though. Kinda like the wind blows.


Then go ahead and send Dango an email about this with a video showing the noise you're getting. Just send it to [email protected]


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm leaving for Germany, finally, at the end of this month. I was accepted to the Univerity of Hohenheim to work on my masters degree in economics. My ultimate goal is to eventually go to work for the UN and help them devise better economic regulations that will benefit emerging markets.


I thought you were just going for the beer and curry wurst......


----------



## Imprezzion

I have been using my H320 since the release and i've pretty much only ceaned out the dust every 2 months from the rad and nothing more..

Now i am facing a bit of an issue. The last couple of months performance has taken a severe dive and the cooler lost over 20c of cooling temperatures in performance.

Is it a goood idea to replace the fluid? It's been in there since i bought it the week of the release and i have never opened the set before lol..

EDIT: Before someone asks, i did replace the thermal paste (Liquid Ultra) about 6 months ago. Temps where fine back then.
CPU is delidded but has the IHS (with fresh CLU as well 6 months ago) mounted as it won't POST with 4 DIMM's when running direct die (with stock H320 mount and slightly modded screws)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I have been using my H320 since the release and i've pretty much only ceaned out the dust every 2 months from the rad and nothing more..
> 
> Now i am facing a bit of an issue. The last couple of months performance has taken a severe dive and the cooler lost over 20c of cooling temperatures in performance.
> 
> Is it a goood idea to replace the fluid? It's been in there since i bought it the week of the release and i have never opened the set before lol..
> 
> EDIT: Before someone asks, i did replace the thermal paste (Liquid Ultra) about 6 months ago. Temps where fine back then.
> CPU is delidded but has the IHS (with fresh CLU as well 6 months ago) mounted as it won't POST with 4 DIMM's when running direct die (with stock H320 mount and slightly modded screws)


Replacing the fluid and a good flush sounds like a good idea. It would probably be a good time to give the block a cleaning, as well - pretty sure you can do that with the H320. You may well have gotten some plasticizer buildup.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegreatgarp*
> 
> Hey guys I recently purchased a H240X and plan to cool my 3770k and gtx 980 with it.
> My 3770k is oc'd at 4.5ghz and my gtx 980 is still set at stock speeds.
> 
> It will be going into my NZXT S340. I have seen a guy do a similar setup
> 
> 
> My question is that his fill port is blocked and he told me that to fill the loop he had to rotate his
> system upside down and unscrew the rad, however is it possible to connect a tube to the fill port and have a
> valve at the end of it? It wont necessary eliminate the process of flipping the case but it would help with unscrewing the rad.
> Also is it possible to attach a reservoir using this AIO? If so how so? Theres only really 1 place I can mount a res but Im unsure how
> the loop setup would be.
> 
> Sorry if im asking too much questions, this will be my first watercooling loop and this is also my first post on the forum.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Was thinking of doing something similar to this setup:

Swiftech H220-X
Swiftech MCR120QP
KOMODO-NV GTX TITAN X ECO


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Was thinking of doing something similar to this setup:
> 
> Swiftech H220-X
> Swiftech MCR120QP
> KOMODO-NV GTX TITAN X ECO


Can you give me more information about your setup? How do you plant to mount your H220-X and what case are you using?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Can you give me more information about your setup? How do you plant to mount your H220-X and what case are you using?


just like the pic in a CM Silencio 352.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> just like the pic in a CM Silencio 352.


In that case, you will need another reservoir to fill and bleed, since you mount the H220-X with the fill port at the bottom.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> In that case, you will need another reservoir to fill and bleed, since you mount the H220-X with the fill port at the bottom.


or just get a MCR120 with res.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> or just get a MCR120 with res.


Yes, just make sure you have room to access the fill port.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Yes, just make sure you have room to access the fill port.


there is a fitting on top?

http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp.aspx


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> there is a fitting on top?
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp.aspx


MCR140-X drive have fill port on top. I was thinking you are talking about this one.
Only drive unit have build in reservoir.


----------



## bluedevil

http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp.aspx

This one does, however it only has 3/8th fittings/barbs.


----------



## Bear304

My time with my H220-X have just about come to an end, as i have decided to upgrade to a full water cooling loop, but i must say the H220-X was an easy entry into watercooling









I will be replacing it with the new EK XRes 140 Revo D5 combo unit and a EK XE 360 radiator for my setup soon.


----------



## rfarmer

I'm glad to hear that, I just ordered a H220-X today for my first watercooling build. Also ordered an additional 120mm radiator and Swiftech Helix fan, Bitspower full cover block for my GTX 970. Hopefully all goes well and I get great temps.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I'm glad to hear that, I just ordered a H220-X today for my first watercooling build. Also ordered an additional 120mm radiator and Swiftech Helix fan, Bitspower full cover block for my GTX 970. Hopefully all goes well and I get great temps.


That's cool, i did the exact same thing with my own setup, but do yourself a huge favor and flush the new radiator you getting before you use it in the waterloop as there it tons of junk inside new radiators, i would use boiled water and clear vinegar 5 to 1 and shake the radiator realy good, repeat that 2-6 times and then flush it with water to clean out the vinegar, if you do that you'll save yourself a headache later on, as the H220-X is not that is to pull out and drain when it has been expanded.

With the H220-X and a 120 rad your GTX 970 would probably be around 45*c load, my own GTX 970 G1 is OC'ed to 1568 mhz and max's out at 51*c


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> That's cool, i did the exact same thing with my own setup, but do yourself a huge favor and flush the new radiator you getting before you use it in the waterloop as there it tons of junk inside new radiators, i would use boiled water and clear vinegar 5 to 1 and shake the radiator realy good, repeat that 2-6 times and then flush it with water to clean out the vinegar, if you do that you'll save yourself a headache later on, as the H220-X is not that is to pull out and drain when it has been expanded.
> 
> With the H220-X and a 120 rad your GTX 970 would probably be around 45*c load, my own GTX 970 G1 is OC'ed to 1568 mhz and max's out at 51*c


Thanks for the heads up on cleaning the radiator, and I am hoping for temps like that with my 970.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> My time with my H220-X have just about come to an end, as i have decided to upgrade to a full water cooling loop, but i must say the H220-X was an easy entry into watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be replacing it with the new EK XRes 140 Revo D5 combo unit and a EK XE 360 radiator for my setup soon.


I decided the same - only had my 220x a couple weeks. I decided to go in another direct - custom loop. I will use the 220x cpu block and maybe continue with the fans, not sure yet. I've decided to go with acrylic tubing - most likely Primochill and their connectors. I still have to decide on the radiator (looking to stay with Swiftech quiet radiator) and fans as I want a more quiet set up. I figured since I am not upgrading any of my components this would be a great time to do the loop.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I decided the same - only had my 220x a couple weeks. I decided to go in another direct - custom loop. I will use the 220x cpu block and maybe continue with the fans, not sure yet. I've decided to go with acrylic tubing - most likely Primochill and their connectors. I still have to decide on the radiator (looking to stay with Swiftech quiet radiator) and fans as I want a more quiet set up. I figured since I am not upgrading any of my components this would be a great time to do the loop.


Don't get acrylic get some PTEG tubing it is more friendly to work with.

BTW. You need to get the adapter for the pump outlet to be able to use G1/4 fittings, the one that's in the pump outlet is a barp fitting with a ID of 10mm, you can only get the adapter from Swiftech's online shop it's about 5 dollars.


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZaG*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Didn't want to start my own thread unless I absolutely had too.
> 
> I got the 240X for my sig rig however I have yet to install it. I am awaiting my Thermaltake Core X9 Case linked below:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133275
> 
> After further thought I would like to cool my GTX 980 STRIX in addition to my i7 4770k as well and had some questions on extra tubing fittings ect. needed to extend the loop to cool my GPU as well. Please be helpful as I am in the process of learning custom water-cooling and want things to go smoothly. I know EK has blocks for the STRIX, what version should I get meaning nickel acetyl ect. I have decided on getting a 360 rad seeing as how I have the space and can use it for future loops and expansions. Will the H240X be able to support the extensions I want to make to the loop? Links would help me the most for all required parts. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post pics when I'm done!


hi did you install the 240x into the x9? do you have any pictures


----------



## delpy8

anyone got a swiftech h320-220x etc fitted into a thermaltake x9 if so what were did you place it and do you have pictures?


----------



## m1nt

I just installed my H240-X and it's working great, my (stock right now) i7 4790k runs at 30C idle, 50C GTA V max. But the radiator fans run at 1800 RPM all the time - I forgot another sata power cable in my house and can't get it for a couple days. I had an extra fan cable splitter (2 3pin to 3 pin) though, so I plugged both of the 140mm radiator fans into the splitter, and then into the CPU1 header on my motherboard. The pump PWM cable is connected to the CPU2 header, the waterblock LED onto a systemfan header. I had one extra port from connecting my HDD and SSD for the pump sata (the sata cables that come with my PSU have 3 female ports per cable). But I couldn't connect the 8 way PWM controller that comes with the unit, since no power. Is this what would allow me to control the speed on the fans? I tried to use speedfan and the BIOS but nothing changed their speed. Is this because of the 3 pin fans vs. the 4 pin PWM cable from the splitter provided by Swiftech?

Thanks

edit: I think I answered my own question, that the 3 pin splitter for the radiator fans will make it always run at full speed. But the 8 way splitter from Swiftech should allow me to control the speed since it's a 4 pin PWM right?
Can I also plug in the case fans that come with the Define S in the 8 way splitter?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1nt*
> 
> I just installed my H240-X and it's working great, my (stock right now) i7 4790k runs at 30C idle, 50C GTA V max. But the radiator fans run at 1800 RPM all the time - I forgot another sata power cable in my house and can't get it for a couple days. I had an extra fan cable splitter (2 3pin to 3 pin) though, so I plugged both of the 140mm radiator fans into the splitter, and then into the CPU1 header on my motherboard. The pump PWM cable is connected to the CPU2 header, the waterblock LED onto a systemfan header. I had one extra port from connecting my HDD and SSD for the pump sata (the sata cables that come with my PSU have 3 female ports per cable). But I couldn't connect the 8 way PWM controller that comes with the unit, since no power. Is this what would allow me to control the speed on the fans? I tried to use speedfan and the BIOS but nothing changed their speed. Is this because of the 3 pin fans vs. the 4 pin PWM cable from the splitter provided by Swiftech?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> edit: I think I answered my own question, that the 3 pin splitter for the radiator fans will make it always run at full speed. But the 8 way splitter from Swiftech should allow me to control the speed since it's a 4 pin PWM right?
> Can I also plug in the case fans that come with the Define S in the 8 way splitter?


You can use any 4 pin fan hub or slitter to control PWM fans. Yes, the hub that come with H240-X can use with any PWM fans. I hope this answered your questions.


----------



## cmackethan

I just finished building this rig with a h220x in it!


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Don't get acrylic get some PTEG tubing it is more friendly to work with.
> 
> BTW. You need to get the adapter for the pump outlet to be able to use G1/4 fittings, the one that's in the pump outlet is a barp fitting with a ID of 10mm, you can only get the adapter from Swiftech's online shop it's about 5 dollars.


Thanks that's the tube I'm thinking of, I guess I used the wrong term. I'll stick with the generic term - hard or ridgid tube. Btw, I am not using the 220x pump, reservoir or radiator. That will be scrapped or sold rather, maybe. However, I did get the Swiftech 5-1/4 dual bay drive reservoir and pump though. I like that look.

http://www.primochill.com/product/primochilll-12in-rigid-petg-tube-36in-clear-12-pack/


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks that's the tube I'm thinking of, I guess I used the wrong term. I'll stick with the generic term - hard or ridgid tube. Btw, I am not using the 220x pump, reservoir or radiator. That will be scrapped or sold rather, maybe. However, I did get the Swiftech 5-1/4 dual bay drive reservoir and pump though. I like that look.
> 
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primochilll-12in-rigid-petg-tube-36in-clear-12-pack/


why not sell the h220x then and buy some other components....you could sell it buy the same block and have money towards something else...


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> why not sell the h220x then and buy some other components....you could sell it buy the same block and have money towards something else...


Too much time involved to recoup what little I'd make from the sell after paypal and Ebay fees (and shipping). With the net profits, I'd be able to buy exactly what I already have - cpu block and fans. If I could sell locally that may be a little bit better. If someone wants to buy the radiator, reservoir and pump, I'd probably sell it. It's just easier to use the CPU block: it's already there and installed. It's more my time for little gain that's the issue and then I'd have to order and wait for the other products - again time.

Thanks


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmackethan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished building this rig with a h220x in it!


Nice, how about a pic of the complete loop.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice, how about a pic of the complete loop.


Yeah I was wondering if its 2 240s cooling that.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Yeah I was wondering if its 2 240s cooling that.


given that the CPU leads to something under the GPU, its likely the user has 3 rads at least, size I wouldnt know. Unless its going to a bottom mounted reservoir/pump


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m1nt*
> 
> I just installed my H240-X and it's working great, my (stock right now) i7 4790k runs at 30C idle, 50C GTA V max. But the radiator fans run at 1800 RPM all the time - I forgot another sata power cable in my house and can't get it for a couple days. I had an extra fan cable splitter (2 3pin to 3 pin) though, so I plugged both of the 140mm radiator fans into the splitter, and then into the CPU1 header on my motherboard. The pump PWM cable is connected to the CPU2 header, the waterblock LED onto a systemfan header. I had one extra port from connecting my HDD and SSD for the pump sata (the sata cables that come with my PSU have 3 female ports per cable). But I couldn't connect the 8 way PWM controller that comes with the unit, since no power. Is this what would allow me to control the speed on the fans? I tried to use speedfan and the BIOS but nothing changed their speed. Is this because of the 3 pin fans vs. the 4 pin PWM cable from the splitter provided by Swiftech?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> edit: I think I answered my own question, that the 3 pin splitter for the radiator fans will make it always run at full speed. But the 8 way splitter from Swiftech should allow me to control the speed since it's a 4 pin PWM right?
> Can I also plug in the case fans that come with the Define S in the 8 way splitter?
> 
> 
> 
> You can use any 4 pin fan hub or slitter to control PWM fans. Yes, the hub that come with H240-X can use with any PWM fans. I hope this answered your questions.
Click to expand...

although true i wanted to put a "*" on it, some splitters needs additional work

aka the modmytoys pcbs need the rpm line cut,

the work great for some things unmodded but not all. like reporting RPMs ( which is why you cut the rpm line )


----------



## m1nt

Hi again, my H240-X was working great until now - this morning I turned on my computer and the 4790k was idling at 25C, and prime95 50C. When I came back from breakfast, it's now idling at 65C and with prime95 it goes up to over 90C. I also notice some pump noises (? sounds like loud hard drive sounds, but it's not the hard drive for sure). Just reseat it? or is something wrong. (I also had a critical kernel power BSOD last night, event ID = 41, might be related idk)

ps the radiator fans also don't feel hot at all... not the 70C like it is running now idle.
did anyone have trouble holding the backplate up while screwing the waterblock in?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1nt*
> 
> Hi again, my H240-X was working great until now - this morning I turned on my computer and the 4790k was idling at 25C, and prime95 50C. When I came back from breakfast, it's now idling at 65C and with prime95 it goes up to over 90C. I also notice some pump noises (? sounds like loud hard drive sounds, but it's not the hard drive for sure). Just reseat it? or is something wrong. (I also had a critical kernel power BSOD last night, event ID = 41, might be related idk)
> 
> ps the radiator fans also don't feel hot at all... not the 70C like it is running now idle.
> did anyone have trouble holding the backplate up while screwing the waterblock in?


Sounds like you've got a good amount of air left in your system. Typically when the pump makes a grinding or resonating sound it means there's air stuck in the loop. If an air bubble gets stuck at the most inconvenient place like inside the CPU block, your temps will suddenly rise. Try adding a few drops of dishwater soap into the loop. I bet you'll start seeing bubbles in the reservoir shortly after.


----------



## d0mmie

Alright so I've got this idea I haven't really considered before... To me the Achilles heel of the H140/220/240-X is the way the reservoir works. Not that it's a terrible solution, but it causes air bubbles to get pulled down through the system again due to the water flows back into it from the top and not the bottom. If some of you have followed lately you know I've been having issues with micro bubbles in my loop, and it's not an easy thing to get rid of. Oddly enough this doesn't seem to happen for me if I only have the CPU block on the AIO and nothing else. I guess it might just gets worse the more one expands such loop.

This is why adding another reservoir actually isn't such a bad idea, however it must be placed above the pump/reservoir combo, else it's just a wasted effort. The point is having a reservoir where the water flows in and out at the lowest point in the reservoir, so air can get pushed to the top. A tube or bay reservoir would be an excellent choice for this. I guess tube is easier, since it can be troublesome filling a bay reservoir when there's stiff tubing sitting behind and won't budge when you want to pull it out a bit. I guess it's the downside of using thick tubing like 16/10 mm. But in order to get the reservoir above the AIO, I'm thinking I might be better off placing the pump/reservoir facing downwards in a vertical position. According to the manual this can be done. Plus I could use the fill port as a drain port instead.

I'm also going to add an extra 140mm rad while I'm at it. I don't have room for more, since I want the top of the case to be sealed off due to noise levels in my Define R5 case.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icetray9000*
> 
> Hi everyone. I just got my H220-X and noticed that in the resorvoir it looks like there is some sawdust or other brownish looking particles in the coolant? Is this some other material floating in there and is this normal? I am afraid to run it and damage the pump?
> 
> I think it might be sawdust because the outside radiator seemed to be covered in this fine particle / saw dust like material?
> 
> Thanks for your help


Edit: looks like I accidentally replied to a really old post, sorry.

Looks like you got some older stock, the newer ones don't have the bleed screw as far a I know. They also are using a stronger annealed acrylic more resistant to cracking now

Someone from Swiftech's manufacturing facility in China posted on linustechtips forums that the bleed screw was a last minute addition, so some ended up with extra debris in there. However, they could still be using a bleed screw with the newer manufacturing revisions.

Personally i would drain/flush it to try and get it all out. Swiftech recommended Feser Base and Distilled water, claiming it was similar to the stock coolant they use but Distilled + PT Nuke PHN will work too. Make sure to fully flush all the old coolant out if you do a change. Another option would be to RMA the entire unit, but it could take some time as Bryan is leaving Swiftech this week and their shipping department is understaffed.

I would also closely monitor that window for any signs of cracking over the first month of usage, and be VERY gentle with that screw.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Looks like you got some older stock, the newer ones don't have the bleed screw as far a I know. They also are using a stronger annealed acrylic more resistant to cracking now
> 
> Someone from Swiftech's manufacturing facility in China posted on linustechtips forums that the bleed screw was a last minute addition, so some ended up with extra debris in there. Personally i would drain/flush it to try and get it all out. Swiftech recommended Feser Base and Distilled water, claiming it was similar to the stock coolant they use but Distilled + PT Nuke PHN will work too. Make sure to fully flush all the old coolant out if you do a change. Another option would be to RMA the entire unit, but it could take some time as Bryan is leaving Swiftech this week and their shipping department is understaffed.
> 
> I would also closely monitor that window for any signs of cracking, and be VERY gentle with that screw.


contact @Dango via pm about this in the past they have sent out kits to refill and clean the unit...I'm sure they would have no problem doing this...helps you too because an hour of your time or weeks of rma....I'll take the hour all day long...plus regarding the bleed screw I would not use it for bleeding...it's not really easier using it and it's prone to cracking even with the fragile screw which is not metal but a polymer


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> contact @Dango via pm about this in the past they have sent out kits to refill and clean the unit...I'm sure they would have no problem doing this...helps you to because an hour of your time or weeks of rma....I'll take the hour all day long


Agreed, however I had to RMA mine awhile back due to cracking but Swiftech support is great.

______________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________

Anyways, regarding above posts of selling entire unit to replace with custom parts - you can convert the H220(-X)/H240(-X) (Edit: reservoirs) *radiators* to standalone and use a MCP50x pump top on the MCP30
(MCP35* and Laing tops won't fit. Maybe acrylic ones with dremel work but O-Ring might be off. MCP50x top confirmed to fit MCP30 though)

The pump/reservoir combo separates from the rad with 4 screws. I ended up sealing the pump/res inlet hole with a copper plate and rubber washer/gasket and using the fill port as the outlet (must use fittings with low profile threading, such as the stock Swiftech elbow ones or the Lok-Seal compression fittings or it will screw down too deep and restrict flow). Pics below:

1mm copper heatsink shim. I drilled/tapped m3 threads on it since I had some long m3 screws in my spare parts box. I had to use a cone shaped gasket/washer to get a good seal (from a box of random washers from Harbor Freight & Tools)

Pic below of the final result after drilled/tapped and screwed in. It doesn't matter what size screws you use since they just passthrough the radiator anyways and are not in direct contact with any water and don't contain any threads.


And I also discovered with some careful custom screw work, you can BARELY fit the Swiftech G1/4" pump outlet accessory to the inlet side of the reservoir top if you use a thicker rubber O-Ring/gasket. I'm waiting on my MCP50x top to come in though to be rid of this reservoir top. Pic below of my temporary H240-X "standalone" pump separated from the radiator (The screws holding the G1/4" pump accessory barely make contact with the edges since the holes are wider on the inlet than the outlet. I had to find some shorter screws that matched the original threading):



Edit: Multiple edits above to fix typos and add additional info.


----------



## thegreatgarp

is it possible to remove the pump off the H-240X?


----------



## Velathawen

I'm wondering if anybody here has had any experience with doing a more involved loop in a Design R5 with the bigger HDD cage still installed. Most of the images and builds people do remove all the hard drive cages so they have plenty of room to install additional rads, pumps, and res. With my current installation I have the H240X installed up top and the rear exhaust barely fits a 120mm. I have it secured using 1 screw and a zip tie in opposite corners at the moment since the holes don't align with the case and I'm not sure this will allow me to install and additional rad like most people usually do.


----------



## mcnumpty23

good news for folks in the uk we finally can buy the h220x and h240x and apogee xl from a uk web site

though looks like theyre selling fast some of them are back to pre order when they were in stock yesterday

http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=swiftech


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> good news for folks in the uk we finally can buy the h220x and h240x and apogee xl from a uk web site
> 
> though looks like theyre selling fast some of them are back to pre order when they were in stock yesterday
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=swiftech


Can also get them from Coolerkit which ships in all of EU.

http://www.coolerkit.com/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Can also get them from Coolerkit which ships in all of EU.
> 
> http://www.coolerkit.com/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html


thanks for the link hadnt heard of that site and postage to the uk looks reasonable as well


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegreatgarp*
> 
> is it possible to remove the pump off the H-240X?


yes, see my post right above yours. the reservoir is attached to the pump though. it's a kind of custom pump top with reservoir combined but the entire thing is removable with two 4 screws (2 next to fill port and 2 below the reservoir. there's a rubber o-ring that mates the reservoir to the radiator). just don't unscrew the pump itself from it's top or you void the warranty.


----------



## DarthPeanut

New to the forum... temporary setup with an expanded H220X loop. More of a function over form thing right now so please excuse the ugly. I have since cleaned it up a bit... removed a section of hard drive cages and condensed to the lower. Fixed some wiring mess you can see also but I am in the process of deciding on a new case so it was not a massive concern.

Also still have not pulled the trigger on the Komodo water block for the 980ti but that might be coming soon as well.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> New to the forum... temporary setup with an expanded H220X loop. More of a function over form thing right now so please excuse the ugly. I have since cleaned it up a bit... removed a section of hard drive cages and condensed to the lower. Fixed some wiring mess you can see also but I am in the process of deciding on a new case so it was not a massive concern.
> 
> Also still have not pulled the trigger on the Komodo water block for the 980ti but that might be coming soon as well.
> 
> [...]


nice green there, though it's high maintenance for dyed coolant. what 90 degree fittings are those on the rear radiator?

also, coiled up network cable acts as an antenna for EMI, especially when near a power cable. might want to take that into consideration if you do any serious gaming. could cause a packet drop once in a blue moon just enough to screw you over. also stuffed leopards love to chew on cables when you're not looking.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthPeanut*
> 
> New to the forum... temporary setup with an expanded H220X loop. More of a function over form thing right now so please excuse the ugly. I have since cleaned it up a bit... removed a section of hard drive cages and condensed to the lower. Fixed some wiring mess you can see also but I am in the process of deciding on a new case so it was not a massive concern.
> 
> Also still have not pulled the trigger on the Komodo water block for the 980ti but that might be coming soon as well.


The tubing is so insane and "ghettomodded" in an era of "clean builds" that I had to +rep it for having the brass ones to make that work.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Thanks s74r1, learned something new about having that coiled cable near the PSU cable. Did not think about that to be honest but that makes sense that EMI could cause minor issues like that.

It is Swiftech PM coolant and will probably just do distilled and a kill coil on the next setup when I move cases. I will check and clean the block if needed when I do that. Just cannot decide corsair 540 cube, nzxt h440, or nzxt 450.

The rear rad is another Swiftech unit that was on sale cheap with integrated swivel 90 degree fittings. As I said pretty much just a functional build over anything else right now.

The porcelain Leopard is usually too busy watching the TV to chew on the cables...







.

Thanks ganzosrevenge for the compliment







and rep considering my less than show quality build. Plenty of radiator for the cpu @ 1.28v (bit on the safe side for voltage I know) and 46 multiplier. I have been a little further with the overclocks but no real point since I am just gaming mostly. I play some cpu intensive games but the FPS improvement was very very minimal and I wanted to stay under 1.3v for daily use.


----------



## aznguyen316

Bought a H240X, planning on expanding it to my R9 Fury Tri-X that I also bought a block for. First time into custom water cooling, so this should be fun. oh and I'm doing it a Phanteks Evolv ITX.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Bought a H240X, planning on expanding it to my R9 Fury Tri-X that I also bought a block for. First time into custom water cooling, so this should be fun. oh and I'm doing it a Phanteks Evolv ITX.


You may want to add another radiator. Then 240mm radiator just not enough for a CPU + Fury.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> You may want to add another radiator. Then 240mm radiator just not enough for a CPU + Fury.


Definitely, yes, I did not mention all the parts I purchased. I did buy a slim 120mm radiator to add into the loop, a few compression fittings, a QD3 to add to the bottom of the loop for draining in the future, and I hope I can use my stock sapphire fury backplate with the waterblock. Got that little $5 adapter as well for the pump. Quick question though, does the other tube leaving the radiator have a G1/4 fitting there already and only the pump needs it? If I wanted to have a matching compression fitting on that incoming line that is. Thanks.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Definitely, yes, I did not mention all the parts I purchased. I did buy a slim 120mm radiator to add into the loop, a few compression fittings, a QD3 to add to the bottom of the loop for draining in the future, and I hope I can use my stock sapphire fury backplate with the waterblock. Got that little $5 adapter as well for the pump. Quick question though, does the other tube leaving the radiator have a G1/4 fitting there already and only the pump needs it? If I wanted to have a matching compression fitting on that incoming line that is. Thanks.


A slim 120mm radiator is not enough for the Fury. In fact a slime 120mm have almost the same surface area as the Tri-X cooler. What you need is something like a 240mm X 30mm, or your temp will go up to 50+ degree under load.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> A slim 120mm radiator is not enough for the Fury. In fact a slime 120mm have almost the same surface area as the Tri-X cooler. What you need is something like a 240mm X 30mm, or your temp will go up to 50+ degree under load.


Thanks, 50-55C under load would be great to me, as it gets to 75C underload right now and it's already a little too thick for my case, so this is already a better solution for me.

Do you mind answering this question: Quick question though, does the other tube leaving the radiator have a G1/4 fitting there already and only the pump needs it? If I wanted to have a matching compression fitting on that incoming line that is. Thanks!


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Thanks, 50-55C under load would be great to me, as it gets to 75C underload right now and it's already a little too thick for my case, so this is already a better solution for me.
> 
> Do you mind answering this question: Quick question though, does the other tube leaving the radiator have a G1/4 fitting there already and only the pump needs it? If I wanted to have a matching compression fitting on that incoming line that is. Thanks!


All the fitting on the X kits are G1/4, except the one coming out from the pump, but we do have adapter for that on our website.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Bought a H240X, planning on expanding it to my R9 Fury Tri-X that I also bought a block for. First time into custom water cooling, so this should be fun. oh and I'm doing it a Phanteks Evolv ITX.


I also have a Evolv itx and just ordered a H220-X, 120mm radiator and a Bitspower block for my GTX 970. Will be looking forward to seeing your build.


----------



## bluedevil

So in terms of orientation, can I put a H220-X on its side with the Res facing up? I want to put one and a MCR220 in CM 120 Elite case as a WaterBox.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So in terms of orientation, can I put a H220-X on its side with the Res facing up? I want to put one and a MCR220 in CM 120 Elite case as a WaterBox.


Yes, you can put it on it side with the reservoir facing up. As you can see in the picture.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Yes, you can put it on it side with the reservoir facing up. As you can see in the picture.


Cool that helps a ton.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thanks for the link hadnt heard of that site and postage to the uk looks reasonable as well


It's good that we can finally get them in the UK and I've dealt with Scan for years but those prices seem a bit on the high side. ~£150 including postage for the H220-X when it cost me £115 inc ( ‎€158) 2 weeks ago to get it from Coolerkit and it arrived in 4 days.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> It's good that we can finally get them in the UK and I've dealt with Scan for years but those prices seem a bit on the high side. ~£150 including postage for the H220-X when it cost me £115 inc ( ‎€158) 2 weeks ago to get it from Coolerkit and it arrived in 4 days.


Ouch that is high, I just bought one here in the states for $140.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Thanks, 50-55C under load would be great to me, as it gets to 75C underload right now and it's already a little too thick for my case, so this is already a better solution for me.
> 
> Do you mind answering this question: Quick question though, does the other tube leaving the radiator have a G1/4 fitting there already and only the pump needs it? If I wanted to have a matching compression fitting on that incoming line that is. Thanks!


you definitely arent going to get 55c under load. i only have a 290 with 240 + 120mm and keep the 290 with power limit lower/stock/underclocked and it can get past 65 on lengthy load, along with the cpu. couldn't even imagine trying to cool down a fury x with the same setup. Was only able to get under 55 while using my previous 7970OC, so unless the gpu itself produces the same heat level of a 7970 or less, you definitely not going to get 55c unless the whole room is fairly cold.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you definitely arent going to get 55c under load. i only have a 290 with 240 + 120mm and keep the 290 with power limit lower/stock/underclocked and it can get past 65 on lengthy load, along with the cpu. couldn't even imagine trying to cool down a fury x with the same setup. Was only able to get under 55 while using my previous 7970OC, so unless the gpu itself produces the same heat level of a 7970 or less, you definitely not going to get 55c unless the whole room is fairly cold.


You are right. You can take a look my old rig at my signature. Its a 3770k with duol 290X reference and not overclock. I have 420mm X 30mm and 420mm X 55mm radiator to keep both card 50C under-load.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> you definitely arent going to get 55c under load. i only have a 290 with 240 + 120mm and keep the 290 with power limit lower/stock/underclocked and it can get past 65 on lengthy load, along with the cpu. couldn't even imagine trying to cool down a fury x with the same setup. Was only able to get under 55 while using my previous 7970OC, so unless the gpu itself produces the same heat level of a 7970 or less, you definitely not going to get 55c unless the whole room is fairly cold.


With a 290 and 290x sure this doesn't surprise me. Having owned both cards these things were tough to keep cool. From just my observation the fury runs much cooler than any 290(x) I've owned (had a tri-x, a vapor x and 295x2). Not to say you're wrong, but if 65C on lengthy load is as hot as you got then I would hope and expect to see lower. Even then, 65C wouldn't bother me in the slightest, I am not going water cooling purely for temps, but rather it is an interest of mine I want to fulfill as a hobby. I do appreciate the insight and glad I have some numbers to test against when I do get everything set up.


----------



## d0mmie

I'm cooling both an i7 5930K and a GTX 980 Ti (oc'ed to 1428 MHz at boost) with only an H240-X. My temps are usually between 50-65 degrees Celsius on both the GPU and CPU. Some games push the temps high, Dragon Age Inquisition comes to mind. But this game is also very demanding. Metal Gear Solid 5 it's only around 50 degrees Celsius. And all this the pump actually handles it very well. Not even going over 40% speed as it doesn't really do any difference at this point (I guess there's just not any real resistance in the loop yet).


----------



## ep45-ds3l

I'm contemplating picking up an EK Gigabyte G1 GTX 980ti block and running a 240 or 280mm rad along with the h240x. Thinking my temps should be decent. Currently running my 5820K at 4.4ghz 1.25 volts and bench the 980ti at 1530mhz/8ghz 1.23 volts, but usually run lower clocks at or under 1500mhz with less voltage depending on what game I'm currently playing.


----------



## j0ewhite

Hi guys. I just bought a H220-X and have not installed it.

According to the quick start guide, can I check what is the function of the 4-pin header on the pump and the CPU block?



I do not intend to use the PWM splitter.

The SATA power (from the pump) direct to PSU is to provide constant 12V to the pump, so is it running 100% always?
So what is the 4-pin header for?

As for the CPU block, the 4-pin header is for the LED lighting?

Thanks.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0ewhite*
> 
> Hi guys. I just bought a H220-X and have not installed it.
> 
> According to the quick start guide, can I check what is the function of the 4-pin header on the pump and the CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> I do not intend to use the PWM splitter.
> 
> The SATA power (from the pump) direct to PSU is to provide constant 12V to the pump, so is it running 100% always?
> So what is the 4-pin header for?
> 
> As for the CPU block, the 4-pin header is for the LED lighting?
> 
> Thanks.


The 4-pin header from the pump is to control the pump speed so make sure it is connected in the CPU fan controller. And the 4-pin from the cpu block is for the led lighting.


----------



## j0ewhite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> The 4-pin header from the pump is to control the pump speed so make sure it is connected in the CPU fan controller. And the 4-pin from the cpu block is for the led lighting.


Thanks!

This is new to me, as in the pump has a separate SATA power connector and a 4-pin header.

SATA power - to supply 12V
4-pin header - to control pump speed

Guess I can connect the pump's 4-pin to a CHA_FAN header on my mobo to control the speed then.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0ewhite*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> This is new to me, as in the pump has a separate SATA power connector and a 4-pin header.
> 
> SATA power - to supply 12V
> 4-pin header - to control pump speed
> 
> Guess I can connect the pump's 4-pin to a CHA_FAN header on my mobo to control the speed then.


Just make sure that your cha_fan header is PWM header.


----------



## j0ewhite

By the way, what do you guys recommend for rad fans setup for top mount?

1. Exhaust / PULL?
2. Intake / PUSH?

I have below existing fans in my case (450D):

1. 2x 140mm Front (intake)
2. 1x 120mm Bottom (intake)
3. 1x 120mm Rear (exhaust)


----------



## Dango

A connector does not means it has all the pins in. Like the 4 pin connector on the Apogee XL, it just have 2 cables, ground and 12V. The pump on the H220/240-X also, the SATA is to power the LED and pump, and 4 pin PWM connector have only PWM single cable and RPM readout cable to control the pump. I hope this make everything clear.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0ewhite*
> 
> By the way, what do you guys recommend for rad fans setup for top mount?
> 
> 1. Exhaust / PULL?
> 2. Intake / PUSH?
> 
> I have below existing fans in my case (450D):
> 
> 1. 2x 140mm Front (intake)
> 2. 1x 120mm Bottom (intake)
> 3. 1x 120mm Rear (exhaust)


Top radiator fan I always make them exhaust. I don't like to make easy for the dust to come in from the top. And most time I use them in push so I can see the LED on the fan through my side window. They don't make that much temperature different, only for the look and dust.


----------



## NFL

This might be a stupid question (I am full of them), but will the H220x fans fit under the roof of an Evolv ITX?

Edit: NVM, figured it out

Edit 2: Given the tight quarters between the roof and radiator and somewhat limited ventilation, would the stock Helix fans still work?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> It's good that we can finally get them in the UK and I've dealt with Scan for years but those prices seem a bit on the high side. ~£150 including postage for the H220-X when it cost me £115 inc ( ‎€158) 2 weeks ago to get it from Coolerkit and it arrived in 4 days.


yes its a bit high but as they are the only uk site i have seen selling them its kind of expected

will probably drop once they have sold a load


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Ouch that is high, I just bought one here in the states for $140.


prices in the usa for pc components are always cheaper than in the uk

if it wasnt for the postage and customs we in the uk would buy from the usa every time


----------



## mcnumpty23

so any chance of seeing a h220x tested against the new ek predator 220mm?

the ek rep on another thread is bigging it up how their product is better quality than swiftechs

even though their 220mm version is around £35 more and they only showed results against corsair stuff


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> so any chance of seeing a h220x tested against the new ek predator 220mm?
> 
> the ek rep on another thread is bigging it up how their product is better quality than swiftechs
> 
> even though their 220mm version is around £35 more and they only showed results against corsair stuff


try not to multi post. there is a multi quote button for a reason(as well as an edit button)

as for a review, its not really up to swiftech, their units have been up for awhile. If a reviewer could get on martins levels of kit reviews(e.g pump pressure, restriction graphs by pwm %) It would help. at this point if you want a direct comparison, you better hope someone reviewing the predator has a swiftech unit as they had their units out quite for awhile now.

as for objective viewing, I like that EK is trying to make a unit that's easy to install(including gpu installations down the line), I just think their price premium on the unit is absurdly high(60$* usd comparing the 240mm radiator models).

Given that the Predator does include compression fittings, the cost is being generated primarily due to that and EK's vardar F4 pricing relative to the Swiftech helix' pricing(as both cpu blocks have relative price levels similarish(Swiftechs cost more giving it potentially better value) and pumps are basically both 6w VDC) as well as a 14mm radiator thickness difference.

then you get to the more nominal comparisons, swiftech includes a 8 way pwm splitter as a separate accessory, EK integrates 4 pwm splitter interface onto the radiator.

I think the predator can do well, but there will be a few cavats, one is that it will run into the problem with the original h220 has, and that is the extended radiator/pump section is similar to the reservoir section of the h220 and that function limits a few cases for compatibility. Its 14mm thickness gain would also contribute to a few other case compatibility issues(for example, my case requires my 240mm radiator to be offset(using OG H220) and must be oriented with reservoir up. if I had a predator the pump would then be oriented pointing up, which is NOT ideal for pumps)


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> This might be a stupid question (I am full of them), but will the H220x fans fit under the roof of an Evolv ITX?
> 
> Edit: NVM, figured it out
> 
> Edit 2: Given the tight quarters between the roof and radiator and somewhat limited ventilation, would the stock Helix fans still work?


Under the roof, do you mean putting it above the radiator pull-out, thus having to remove the roof and keeping the fans/rad bracket stationary in there? It kind of looks like they could, I have an evolv ITX. With my H100i GTX I just had the fans and rad underneath the rad bracket to slide in and out. I'll be doing the same with the 240x. Are you wanting to save that 25mm of space to have the fans in the roof area and the rad on the bracket?


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> good news for folks in the uk we finally can buy the h220x and h240x and apogee xl from a uk web site
> 
> though looks like theyre selling fast some of them are back to pre order when they were in stock yesterday
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/search.aspx?q=swiftech


Highflow in the Netherlands has some stock too.

http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&type=extended&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=N&pcodes=Y&search_performed=Y&cid=0&q=swiftech+h&dispatch=products.search&x=0&y=0

Ships across Europe.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Highflow in the Netherlands has some stock too.
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/?subcats=Y&type=extended&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=N&pcodes=Y&search_performed=Y&cid=0&q=swiftech+h&dispatch=products.search&x=0&y=0
> 
> Ships across Europe.


Tho price on highflow is disgusting. For that kind of money you can buy a 360mm thick rad kit from Phobya.


----------



## Wam7

Brand new unused H220-X. Recommendations please, do I drain and flush out the 'sand' or use as is? The first one I had didn't have this.

PS. This should be newer stock as it has the matt rubber tubing not the shiny black one.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> 
> 
> Brand new unused H220-X. Recommendations please, do I drain and flush out the 'sand' or use as is? The first one I had didn't have this.
> 
> PS. This should be newer stock as it has the matt rubber tubing not the shiny black one.


That is normal according to BramSLI1, read post 10902 when someone ask him about the same question regarding those "sand"


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> That is normal according to BramSLI1, read post 10902 when someone ask him about the same question regarding those "sand"


swiftech has sent people coolant and such to clean that out and replace...contact @Dango via pm about this I wouldn't run it with that in it...it can get lodged in the block causing sub par performance..alternatively you could drain flush and then fill with distilled water and a few droid of biocide if you don't want to wait or don't want the hassle...even if it is harmless I wouldn't want anything but coolant going through my loop


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> 
> 
> Brand new unused H220-X. Recommendations please, do I drain and flush out the 'sand' or use as is? The first one I had didn't have this.
> 
> PS. This should be newer stock as it has the matt rubber tubing not the shiny black one.


It's normal, the "sand" are dye in the coolant settled. You can running the pump for a while and it should be dissolve in the coolant.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> It's normal, the "sand" are dye in the coolant settled. You can running the pump for a while and it should be dissolve in the coolant.


OK I will install and check a little while after.

Is this still the case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> radiators are washed after fabrication in an ulrasonic bath. then they are flushed again before Kit assembly with filtered water... then the kits are filled with filtered coolant. odds for contamination with foreign materials (dust etc..) are reduced to a an absolute minimum, but I learnt from experience that anything is possible. Nonetheless, we have not observed anything in the kits that we have inspected and shipped so far. I wouldn't bother refilling the kit.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> OK I will install and check a little while after.
> 
> Is this still the case?


Yes, we also double check the coolant and the pump in our warehouse in US.


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Under the roof, do you mean putting it above the radiator pull-out, thus having to remove the roof and keeping the fans/rad bracket stationary in there? It kind of looks like they could, I have an evolv ITX. With my H100i GTX I just had the fans and rad underneath the rad bracket to slide in and out. I'll be doing the same with the 240x. Are you wanting to save that 25mm of space to have the fans in the roof area and the rad on the bracket?


That's the idea, fans on one side of the bracket and the radiator on the other. Doing it for space reasons, and to push outside air through the radiator


----------



## Abovethelaw

Can anyone offer some possible explanations as to why I might see lower temps with H100i GTX than my H240-X? I've reseated the block on the CPU about 8 times at this point trying various thermal paste methods, and none have seen significantly different results. I tried a new H100i GTX, and it was around 3C cooler on average. Everything is set to the max speed (1750 fans, 3k pump).

Not impressed with the H240-X thus far.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abovethelaw*
> 
> Can anyone offer some possible explanations as to why I might see lower temps with H100i GTX than my H240-X? I've reseated the block on the CPU about 8 times at this point trying various thermal paste methods, and none have seen significantly different results. I tried a new H100i GTX, and it was around 3C cooler on average. Everything is set to the max speed (1750 fans, 3k pump).
> 
> Not impressed with the H240-X thus far.


Are the fans in use the same?


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Are the fans in use the same?


Yes, the ones that come with the set.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abovethelaw*
> 
> Yes, the ones that come with the set.


I mean between the h110i and 240x


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> I mean between the h110i and 240x


No, they're different sizes. The fans I used for each test are the ones that come with the set.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abovethelaw*
> 
> No, they're different sizes. The fans I used for each test are the ones that come with the set.


One of the possible reasons is because of fan choice. Helix fans have a relatively lower max rpm compared to the corsairs fan. This basically was a manufacturing choice. Swiftech prioritizes performance totnoise ratio.(so fans and pump give relatively similar db levels) Aios priortize performance at the cost of much higher noise


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> One of the possible reasons is because of fan choice. Helix fans have a relatively lower max rpm compared to the corsairs fan. This basically was a manufacturing choice. Swiftech prioritizes performance totnoise ratio.(so fans and pump give relatively similar db levels) Aios priortize performance at the cost of much higher noise


Every review I find comparing the two has the H240-X > 5C better than the H100i GTX with the fans that come with the set.

For example,


----------



## Mega Man

1 dont trust youtube.

2 dont trust youtube

ect

it is probably the fans but it could be alot of stuff , hard to trouble shoot with " one works better then the other "


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Tho price on highflow is disgusting. For that kind of money you can buy a 360mm thick rad kit from Phobya.


True, but seems "normal" in Europe. Prics at scan uk are rather high too.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> True, but seems "normal" in Europe. Prics at scan uk are rather high too.


No they are not normal when Coolerkit are selling it for €139 compared to €180 at Highflow. What happened to you that you are defending Highflow and advertising them? Have they kidnapped one of your family and are holding them hostage or do they have pictures of you in a compromising situation?







Your position on them seems to have changed;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> The H220-X is listed at Coolerkit Denmark for 1250 DKK which converts to 167 Euros. These units are way overpriced in Europe. I live in the Netherlands and am not too happy with Highflow. I buy as little as possible from them because they charge high shippingrates plus additional 3.4 % for Paypal. Service and warranty is not so great either....


By the way Coolerkit have never sold it for €167, it was actually €132 when you first wrote this. Even with you living in the same country as Highflow you could buy it from Coolerkit in Denmark and still have ~€30 left in your pocket.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> No they are not normal when Coolerkit are selling it for €139 compared to €180 at Highflow. What happened to you that you are defending Highflow and advertising them? Have they kidnapped one of your family and are holding them hostage or do they have pictures of you in a compromising situation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your position on them seems to have changed;
> By the way Coolerkit have never sold it for €167, it was actually €132 when you first wrote this. Even with you living in the same country as Highflow you could buy it from Coolerkit in Denmark and still have ~€30 left in your pocket.


Coolerkit

Now list the H-220X at 1400 DKK which is 187 Euros:

http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html?key=01SW014&track=searchdbprodukter

Incl. shipping its 1436DKK which equals to 192 Euros.

Do you get special reduction or buy excl. VAT?

And no I am not defending highflow it is just the European situation that there is just limited stock over here.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Coolerkit
> 
> Now list the H-220X at 1400 DKK which is 187 Euros:
> 
> http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html?key=01SW014&track=searchdbprodukter
> 
> Incl. shipping its 1436DKK which equals to 192 Euros.
> 
> Do you get special reduction or buy excl. VAT?
> 
> And no I am not defending highflow it is just the European situation that there is just limited stock over here.


Why are you converting when their site does Euro's and the Euro price is €139?
http://www.coolerkit.com/shop/swiftech-h220-x-watercooling-3471p.html

It cost me €156 including postage to the UK and it took 4 days. I get no special reduction or VAT exemption, this is the normal price to anybody who buys through their web page. Coolerkit also answer the phone when you call. I called Highflow 22 times on different occasions and they haven't answered once.


----------



## dikkiedirk

You are right, never saw the Euro sign. Strange they have such strange price strategy. Seems more expensive for Danish people than other Europeans. Too bad they still haven't the MCR140 listed. That;s the unit I got.

The H220-X might be a special offer. The H240-X is still way overpriced at over 200 Euros and not in stock.


----------



## rfarmer

Well that went pretty well, really impressed with the H220-X and adding another radiator and gpu block was pretty easy.

Used a Black Ice Pro 120mm rad and Bitspower VG-NGTX970MG Acrylic Top With Stainless Panel, got another Swiftech Helix 120mm fan for the other radiator. I'm going to let it burn in a bit before doing any bench marks, but lowered idle temps on my video card by 20C. Idle on my cpu is about the same as my Corsair h105, which I was expecting.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Well that went pretty well, really impressed with the H220-X and adding another radiator and gpu block was pretty easy.
> 
> Used a Black Ice Pro 120mm rad and Bitspower VG-NGTX970MG Acrylic Top With Stainless Panel, got another Swiftech Helix 120mm fan for the other radiator. I'm going to let it burn in a bit before doing any bench marks, but lowered idle temps on my video card by 20C. Idle on my cpu is about the same as my Corsair h105, which I was expecting.


Hey! Awesome job. I just did my Phanteks Evolv ITX this weekend with a 240x. Unfortunately bought a wrong fitting 120mm radiator, but I went ahead and did the build. I'm very happy with the result even without the extra radiator. Sapphire Fury, on load with valley after 2 hours was at 52C max. CPU gets warm though like 65C after 2 hours. Still very happy without the extra rad.

Here's a quick pic. Pump > CPU > Gpu > Quick disconnect > back to rad. I may still add that 120mm, but deciding where I can place it.



http://imgur.com/xo1qO02


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Hey! Awesome job. I just did my Phanteks Evolv ITX this weekend with a 240x. Unfortunately bought a wrong fitting 120mm radiator, but I went ahead and did the build. I'm very happy with the result even without the extra radiator. Sapphire Fury, on load with valley after 2 hours was at 52C max. CPU gets warm though like 65C after 2 hours. Still very happy without the extra rad.
> 
> Here's a quick pic. Pump > CPU > Gpu > Quick disconnect > back to rad. I may still add that 120mm, but deciding where I can place it.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xo1qO02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good aznguyen316, yeah that is the reason I went with the H220-X rather than the H240-X, didn't look like enough room for a rad. I did some benchmarks and game play earlier, max on the cpu was 50C and 44C on the 970. That is over 30C under what I was getting on air.









How are you liking that Fury?


----------



## SkyFred

Hey guys, I made my first step into watercooling by getting a H220-X unit !

In Europe, getting one of these at a reasonable price is actually tough but when I found it at 160€ on Amazon Marketplace I just jumped on the occasion









I started some kind of leak test, cause that's what I read on the forum. Got some tiny brown stuff in the reservoir right out of the box, but it disolved in the coolant when I started the pump.

Do I need to run the test over night like a custom loop ?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Hey guys, I made my first step into watercooling by getting a H220-X unit !
> 
> In Europe, getting one of these at a reasonable price is actually tough but when I found it at 160€ on Amazon Marketplace I just jumped on the occasion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started some kind of leak test, cause that's what I read on the forum. Got some tiny brown stuff in the reservoir right out of the box, but it disolved in the coolant when I started the pump.
> 
> Do I need to run the test over night like a custom loop ?


You don't need to run them over night. We have leak test them before ship to Europe. Just run them about 5-10 minutes to make sure they didn't get damage during shipping.


----------



## SkyFred

Thanks Dango









I'll post a picture as soon as I have the kit installed (waiting for the end of the Foldathon







)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Thanks Dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post a picture as soon as I have the kit installed (waiting for the end of the Foldathon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Think you are going to like it.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good aznguyen316, yeah that is the reason I went with the H220-X rather than the H240-X, didn't look like enough room for a rad. I did some benchmarks and game play earlier, max on the cpu was 50C and 44C on the 970. That is over 30C under what I was getting on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are you liking that Fury?


Love the Fury, it's even better after it has been unlocked and now under water =)


----------



## Velathawen

Nvm. Figured it out.


----------



## Tim Drake

Shame all of these are hard to obtain in the UK :/


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Shame all of these are hard to obtain in the UK :/


bit expensive but only uk site i have seen with them

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/swiftech-h220-x-cpu-hydro-cooler-kit-for-intel-and-amd-cpus-120mm-pwm-fan-g1-4-thread


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> bit expensive but only uk site i have seen with them
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/swiftech-h220-x-cpu-hydro-cooler-kit-for-intel-and-amd-cpus-120mm-pwm-fan-g1-4-thread


That certainly is expensive.. I think I would rather go for the EK Predator considering it's higher quality, less horror stories and more modular while looking nicer.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> bit expensive but only uk site i have seen with them
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/swiftech-h220-x-cpu-hydro-cooler-kit-for-intel-and-amd-cpus-120mm-pwm-fan-g1-4-thread


Europe is expensive yes.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Europe is expensive yes.


To answer your pre-edit, they don't ship to UK :/


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> That certainly is expensive.. I think I would rather go for the EK Predator considering it's higher quality, less horror stories and more modular while looking nicer.


True, but only the Predator 360 is easy expandable through Quick Disconnects but is 100 Euros incl. VAT more expensive. Don't know if that is an advantage though. The 240 is 60 Euros more expensive.

And there seems to be a compatibility problem between the Predator and certain X99 boards, don't know if it solved yet.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> True, but only the Predator 360 is easy expandable through Quick Disconnects but is 100 Euros incl. VAT more expensive. Don't know if that is an advantage though. The 240 is 60 Euros more expensive.
> 
> And there seems to be a compatibility problem between the Predator and certain X99 boards, don't know if it solved yet.


I just don't like he idea of maintenence or bleeding, chances of leaking etc

This is why I stick to AIOs


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I just don't like he idea of maintenence or bleeding, chances of leaking etc
> 
> This is why I stick to AIOs


Only the absence of leaking is important to me. Maintenance and filling, bleeding or topping off are not to difficult.


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> To answer your pre-edit, they don't ship to UK :/


Then highflow in Netherlands seems to be the only other source in Europe, they do ship to uk, but are also expensive. Coolerkit upped their prices anyway.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Then highflow in Netherlands seems to be the only other source in Europe, they do ship to uk, but are also expensive. Coolerkit upped their prices anyway.


Terrible pricing for everything besides the 240-X


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Terrible pricing for everything besides the 240-X


Agree, importing it from US is also expensive. Better to buy European manufactured stuff, like from EK. But you can also stay with more common available AIOs, like Corsair.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Agree, importing it from US is also expensive. Better to buy European manufactured stuff, like from EK. But *you can also stay with more common available AIOs, like Corsair.*


But that also negates any of the advantages of going to liquid cooling in the first place.


----------



## Velathawen

It really depends on whether you want to expand or not right? Another issue is whether distributors near you are willing to carry it, and what price they want to charge to offset the risk. I paid similar price for my 240X here in Hong Kong, wanted to get the expansion potential to add GPU loop in down the road. This gigabyte card is way too noisy with the triple fan.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> But that also negates any of the advantages of going to liquid cooling in the first place.


Lower temperatures?

Quieter system?

It doesn't negate all the advantages.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Lower temperatures?
> 
> Quieter system?
> 
> It doesn't negate all the advantages.


Yes, lower temps and quieter system are exactly what get negated. CLCs do retain the inflated cost/performance ratio of open loop cooling....but that is really the only commonality they have. Looking at the current crop of CLCs, you are better off saving your money (and eardrums) going to a top tier air cooler - same performance, less money, *FAR* less noise and better reliability. If you aren't going to the Swiftech (and possibly soon the EK - but we haven't seen confirmed tests) or open loop, why bother? For the privilege of paying more just something with tubes and an LED that has a noise _floor_ similar to the noise _ceiling_ of an NH-D15?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, lower temps and quieter system are exactly what get negated. CLCs do retain the inflated cost/performance ratio of open loop cooling....but that is really the only commonality they have. Looking at the current crop of CLCs, you are better off saving your money (and eardrums) going to a top tier air cooler - same performance, less money, *FAR* less noise and better reliability. If you aren't going to the Swiftech (and possibly soon the EK - but we haven't seen confirmed tests) or open loop, why bother? For the privilege of paying more just something with tubes and an LED that has a noise _floor_ similar to the noise _ceiling_ of an NH-D15?


How do those air coolers perform on a GPU compared to an AIO on a GPU?

Oh the AIO wins by miles?

That's right.

AIOs are much cheaper than custom loops and should be taken in a price to performance level not pure quality.

Like comparing £30 headphones to £90 headphones.


----------



## SkyFred

I found a shop in France who has them in stock, and they ship to UK (I checked for you)









http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Kit-WaterCooling-Complet-H220-X_12236.html

http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Kit-WaterCooling-Complet-H240-X_12237.html


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> I found a shop in France who has them in stock, and they ship to UK (I checked for you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Kit-WaterCooling-Complet-H220-X_12236.html
> 
> http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Kit-WaterCooling-Complet-H240-X_12237.html


Best prices I have seen so far.

Good find!


----------



## SkyFred

If you need any help with the language, feel free to ask


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> If you need any help with the language, feel free to ask


Appreciate it but Google Translate is great


----------



## d0mmie

*Sigh*

So I was having issues with resonance coming from the pump/reservoir housing... Well it did this. Notice the crack in the window (first image, bottom right) which is hidden behind the radiator. Already returned it to the dealer.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> How do those air coolers perform on a GPU compared to an AIO on a GPU?
> 
> Oh the AIO wins by miles?
> 
> That's right.
> 
> AIOs are much cheaper than custom loops and should be taken in a price to performance level not pure quality.
> 
> Like comparing £30 headphones to £90 headphones.


When did we start talking about GPUs? I must have missed that....though CLCs on a GPU? Yeah, not going to find that mess in my build.

On CPUs, the high price for mediocre performance from a CLC is exactly what I was referring to.....then add in the additional noise. I wouldn't compare a CLC to a custom loop directly - pretty sure I was clear on that point....since it was half of the whole point in the first place.


----------



## Mega Man

I agree
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> bit expensive but only uk site i have seen with them
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/swiftech-h220-x-cpu-hydro-cooler-kit-for-intel-and-amd-cpus-120mm-pwm-fan-g1-4-thread
> 
> 
> 
> That certainly is expensive.. I think I would rather go for the EK Predator considering it's higher quality, less horror stories and more modular while looking nicer.
Click to expand...

You have ANY proof it is higher quality? I would like to add swiftech already sold ( or may be continues to sell ) a kit like this I don't know the MN off the top of my head but I bought it when I first got into watercooling.

It works great

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, lower temps and quieter system are exactly what get negated. CLCs do retain the inflated cost/performance ratio of open loop cooling....but that is really the only commonality they have. Looking at the current crop of CLCs, you are better off saving your money (and eardrums) going to a top tier air cooler - same performance, less money, *FAR* less noise and better reliability. If you aren't going to the Swiftech (and possibly soon the EK - but we haven't seen confirmed tests) or open loop, why bother? For the privilege of paying more just something with tubes and an LED that has a noise _floor_ similar to the noise _ceiling_ of an NH-D15?
> 
> 
> 
> How do those air coolers perform on a GPU compared to an AIO on a GPU?
> 
> Oh the AIO wins by miles?
> 
> That's right.
> 
> AIOs are much cheaper than custom loops and should be taken in a price to performance level not pure quality.
> 
> Like comparing £30 headphones to £90 headphones.
Click to expand...

This made me laugh thanks. My core is 5c cooler on my gpu. My ram and vrms 50-100c hotter YAY!

Thanks. I'll keep my air cooler or go full water block


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> This made me laugh thanks. My core is 5c cooler on my gpu. My ram and vrms 50-100c hotter YAY!
> 
> Thanks. I'll keep my air cooler or go full water block


Glad to see I'm not the only one that got a chuckle. CLCs on a GPU are one of the most myopic things that one can do. The "but I got sinks for the VRM and RAM, and a Noctua fan with an adapter to blow on them, and changed the CLC to Noctua in push/pull to quiet it down, etc" is equally amusing since it typically winds up costing more than a full cover and MCR140-X.


----------



## SkyFred

I installed my H220-X this afternoon, so I'm officially applying for this group


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Glad to see I'm not the only one that got a chuckle. CLCs on a GPU are one of the most myopic things that one can do. The "but I got sinks for the VRM and RAM, and a Noctua fan with an adapter to blow on them, and changed the CLC to Noctua in push/pull to quiet it down, etc" is equally amusing since it typically winds up costing more than a full cover and MCR140-X.


I used to have a NZXT Kraken G10 on my GTX 970 and was a member of the G10 owners club and you are exactly correct about the lengths people go to cooling their gpu's with an AIO. I wasn't happy with the lack of decent cooling for my vrm, no problem with a full water block.

I have 3 of the Swiftech Helix fans and a 200mm Phanteks for intake, my computer is so quite I have to check to see if it is running. With a 240mm and 120mm AIO I used to have I never had that problem.


----------



## cravinmild

im trying to get a idea where my H320 matches up against the EK P. The only reviews i see are for the EK P. vs the 240-X and no talk regarding the H320 vs 240-X

So I guess im asking is the H320 better at cooling to the 240-X which would make it on par or better than the EK P.

thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> This made me laugh thanks. My core is 5c cooler on my gpu. My ram and vrms 50-100c hotter YAY!
> 
> Thanks. I'll keep my air cooler or go full water block
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see I'm not the only one that got a chuckle. CLCs on a GPU are one of the most myopic things that one can do. The "but I got sinks for the VRM and RAM, and a Noctua fan with an adapter to blow on them, and changed the CLC to Noctua in push/pull to quiet it down, etc" is equally amusing since it typically winds up costing more than a full cover and MCR140-X.
Click to expand...

You are forgetting the famous " oops my die cracked " or "it worked until I put a clc on it. .." then after that "I'll rma it"

( I hate when people brake it then expect to get an rma... warranty fraud anyone? )


----------



## sav4

Hi all I was wondering is there any coloured coolant that is compatible with the H240x that won't clog it up ?
Thinking of putting a clear gpu block on tho if there isn't any I'll go a different style
Thanks


----------



## bonami2

Hey guy just asking do car antifreeze is safe for those watercooler? Im not sure being a long time last time i read on those cooler


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You are forgetting the famous " oops my die cracked " or "it worked until I put a clc on it. .." then after that "I'll rma it"
> 
> ( I hate when people brake it then expect to get an rma... warranty fraud anyone? )


And, my personal favorite......"the GPU is at 53C, but it keeps throttling". Because, you know, VRM temps are meaningless when you have a CLC.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hi all I was wondering is there any coloured coolant that is compatible with the H240x that won't clog it up ?
> Thinking of putting a clear gpu block on tho if there isn't any I'll go a different style
> Thanks


I know that Swiftech had stated that Mayhems X1 was ok, and I _believe_ XSPC ECX and EC6 were stated as ok, also. The big statement was *never* to use any "nano-fluid".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Hey guy just asking do car antifreeze is safe for those watercooler? Im not sure being a long time last time i read on those cooler


Theoretically, yes....but why would you? With so many coolants made specifically for this application at low prices, why would you use something made for another application?


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And, my personal favorite......"the GPU is at 53C, but it keeps throttling". Because, you know, VRM temps are meaningless when you have a CLC.....


Yea that why you get a matrix.

To make it ugly with an aio







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know that Swiftech had stated that Mayhems X1 was ok, and I _believe_ XSPC ECX and EC6 were stated as ok, also. The big statement was *never* to use any "nano-fluid".
> Theoretically, yes....but why would you? With so many coolants made specifically for this application at low prices, why would you use something made for another application?


Well it made to cool radiator. And it 5 minute aways. While we need to order the stuff.

Distilled water + antifreeze could maybe make a colored liquid that wont damage the loop?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Yea that why you get a matrix.
> 
> To make it ugly with an aio
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it made to cool radiator. And it 5 minute aways. While we need to order the stuff.
> 
> Distilled water + antifreeze could maybe make a colored liquid that wont damage the loop?


anti freeze requires more maintenance and can gum up after a lot of hot cold cycles...have you ever looked inside your cars radiator...nasty stuff that's why you have to have them flushed every so often now imagine that in your little channels of your block...it will work and can but distilled water running without a biocide for a few weeks won't hurt it at all and won't have algae growth or deposits...and they make dyes for distilled water that are safe perhaps dango week chime in here...also the anti freeze won't improve cooling at all and some pumps don't handle it well either


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> anti freeze requires more maintenance and can gum up after a lot of hot cold cycles...have you ever looked inside your cars radiator...nasty stuff that's why you have to have them flushed every so often now imagine that in your little channels of your block...it will work and can but distilled water running without a biocide for a few weeks won't hurt it at all and won't have algae growth or deposits...and they make dyes for distilled water that are safe perhaps dango week chime in here...also the anti freeze won't improve cooling at all and some pumps don't handle it well either


Oh ok yea.

Well just gonna order the real stuff if i upgrade the loop and or refill it... If i get the h220x anyways.









Want more cooling than my h75 but im aint sure the h220x would be that better


----------



## arkansaswoman22

For those that have the cooler and have had it for awhile running as is, have you had to add any coolant yet?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> For those that have the cooler and have had it for awhile running as is, have you had to add any coolant yet?


If you had some air trapped in it that needed time to work itself out you could need more... and during normal use it does once and a while need some from evaporation... if it keeps happening after you add more distilled then you might want to check some other things such as clamp tightness and make sure there isnt any leaking...if you expanded this is much more common than if you ran it as is out of the box....if you top it off again and in a short time it needs more.. start looking for reasons








when i ran it for about six months without any expansion i needed to top off once and it was literally less than half an ounce... but i like to keep mine absolutely 100 percent full...

@BONAMI2 you will see an improvement from the h75 that is without a doubt...the h75 cant hold a candle to the h220x or the h240x plus later if you decide to expand you can easily handle two gpus... i have mine running with 220rad 240 rad 280 rad and two gpu blocks and its doing pretty decent... i wouldnt recommend running as much as i have without a second pump... which i have but ive been too lazy to install...it looks nice sitting on the desk though (mcp50x with the mcp25xres attached)... but the pump is handling it with acceptable temperatures... try that with any other aio and the pump wouldnt keep up...


----------



## bonami2

Hello i have a corsair h75 and im looking for an upgrade.

Anyone have experience or an idea of temp drop?

Looking at the h220x 200$ + tax the h240x is 260$ + tax.

Thank you


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Hello i have a corsair h75 and im looking for an upgrade.
> 
> Anyone have experience or an idea of temp drop?
> 
> Looking at the h220x 200$ + tax the h240x is 260$ + tax.
> 
> Thank you


What cpu? Is it overclocked? What are your temps now?


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> What cpu? Is it overclocked? What are your temps now?


4790k delided with clu

4.9 ghz 4.0 uncore

1.375v 1.4v in cpu z under load. 1.97 voltage input 2.0v under load in msi control center

Temp 60-78celsius gaming 80-95c stress test









Would like to push 5.0ghz maybe

Thank you


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> 4790k delided with clu
> 
> 4.9 ghz 4.0 uncore
> 
> 1.375v 1.4v in cpu z under load. 1.97 voltage input 2.0v under load in msi control center
> 
> Temp 60-78celsius gaming 80-95c stress test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to push 5.0ghz maybe
> 
> Thank you


I am running a 4690k at 4.5 GHz at 1.22v, so not near the voltage you are running. I have a H220-X with an additional 120mm radiator because I am also running a gpu block in the loop. Idle 28C, gaming 50C and 58C is the highest I have seen during stress tests. So I would guess you could probably get 70C max during stress, maybe better.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am running a 4690k at 4.5 GHz at 1.22v, so not near the voltage you are running. I have a H220-X with an additional 120mm radiator because I am also running a gpu block in the loop. Idle 28C, gaming 50C and 58C is the highest I have seen during stress tests. So I would guess you could probably get 70C max during stress, maybe better.


That seem great

Thank you for sharing


----------



## paskowitz

Whoops, wrong thread.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> If you had some air trapped in it that needed time to work itself out you could need more... and during normal use it does once and a while need some from evaporation... if it keeps happening after you add more distilled then you might want to check some other things such as clamp tightness and make sure there isnt any leaking...if you expanded this is much more common than if you ran it as is out of the box....if you top it off again and in a short time it needs more.. start looking for reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i ran it for about six months without any expansion i needed to top off once and it was literally less than half an ounce... but i like to keep mine absolutely 100 percent full...
> 
> @BONAMI2 you will see an improvement from the h75 that is without a doubt...the h75 cant hold a candle to the h220x or the h240x plus later if you decide to expand you can easily handle two gpus... i have mine running with 220rad 240 rad 280 rad and two gpu blocks and its doing pretty decent... i wouldnt recommend running as much as i have without a second pump... which i have but ive been too lazy to install...it looks nice sitting on the desk though (mcp50x with the mcp25xres attached)... but the pump is handling it with acceptable temperatures... try that with any other aio and the pump wouldnt keep up...


don't have the cooler but i appreciate your advice


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Glad to see I'm not the only one that got a chuckle. CLCs on a GPU are one of the most myopic things that one can do. The "but I got sinks for the VRM and RAM, and a Noctua fan with an adapter to blow on them, and changed the CLC to Noctua in push/pull to quiet it down, etc" is equally amusing since it typically winds up costing more than a full cover and MCR140-X.


I'm paying £11 for a bracket to put my H110 on my GPU while keeping everything intaxt besides heatsinks. It would be £70 to buy the h110 and bracket and guess how much my temps go down? Down to 35c-40c? Wow clearly a waste while spending nearly £200 for a loop.

No need to be ignorant about the way people spend their money.


----------



## s74r1

Anyone running direct-die with the Apogee XL? Need advice for mounting pressure/distance.

I know it's partially spring loaded, but the LGA115x screws stop going in at a certain point. Is this enough mount pressure for ~2mm lower difference or is some modding required? I don't think washers behind the backplate will work since the screws will stop once hitting the PCB anyways (which is about where the backplate meets the screws I think, so it won't make a difference). Only thing I can think of is removing the stopgap plastic rings in the mounting screws and adding a washer or two under each spring so it goes lower.

P.S. Yes I know the risks, I have a MSI Delid Die Guard I plan on using (after dremeling it down a bit to fit a Devil's Canyon chip). Currently have relidded/lapped IHS with CLU, but probably will use ICD with direct-die since i have a tube around and it fared well on direct-die tests (Gelid GC Ex might be better though, but I find ICD easier to work with, better at gap filling, and applying too much doesn't impact thermals usually. unfortunately it scratches a bit. CLU stains the Apogee XL's copper pretty deep even after lapping and if it budges at all from being bumped it could ruin the mount).


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm paying £11 for a bracket to put my H110 on my GPU while keeping everything intaxt besides heatsinks. It would be £70 to buy the h110 and bracket and guess how much my temps go down? Down to 35c-40c? Wow clearly a waste while spending nearly £200 for a loop.
> 
> No need to be ignorant about the way people spend their money.


The CLC coolers on the GPU's are a great alternative, i had a H75 on my old HD 7950, but don't think you can OC the card anywhere near as high as you can with a full-cover block + backplate, as you'll wear out the RAM chip's and the WRM's faster if you only cool the GPU die, and small heatsinks won't be able to complete against a full-cover block from say EK as those have water channels that cool the WRM's which is allowing you to push the cards OC harder.

Like on my GTX 970 G1 which runs at 1568 mhz on water, but on air it get unstable after 1500 mhz, (and as a bonus switching to a waterblock my cards WRM's coilwhrine have disappeared)


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> The CLC coolers on the GPU's are a great alternative, i had a H75 on my old HD 7950, but don't think you can OC the card anywhere near as high as you can with a full-cover block + backplate, as you'll wear out the RAM chip's and the WRM's faster if you only cool the GPU die, and small heatsinks won't be able to complete against a full-cover block from say EK as those have water channels that cool the WRM's which is allowing you to push the cards OC harder.
> 
> Like on my GTX 970 G1 which runs at 1568 mhz on water, but on air it get unstable after 1500 mhz, (and as a bonus switching to a waterblock my cards WRM's coilwhrine have disappeared)


offtopic: my 970g1 used to pull 1599 on air


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> offtopic: my 970g1 used to pull 1599 on air


Nice one, well could be my cards thermals pads on the WRM's didn't cover enough giving my card some unstability, but lol at 1599 mhz on with the Windforce that core must have been hot as hell









(btw did have my card OC'ed to 1590 mhz but then it started artifacting so backed it of to a stable everyday OC)


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Nice one, well could be my cards thermals pads on the WRM's didn't cover enough giving my card some unstability, but lol at 1599 mhz on with the Windforce that core must have been hot as hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (btw did have my card OC'ed to 1590 mhz but then it started artifacting so backed it of to a stable everyday OC)


I have 17w/mk thermal pad on the VRM and VRAM.

Core on NH-T1 thermal paste.


----------



## Imprezzion

Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..

This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..



Cleaned it completely with a soft brush and made it shine again









Also flushed the rad and pump with demineralized water (got it from the local autoparts shop) and refilled the unit with the same demineralized water + some biocide just to be sure lol.

After some proper bleeding of the air and refilling + leak testing I can safely say she's running very well again.

Some temp results on a quick heat test w/ Prime95 27.9 AVX running a 10GB RAM Blend with 2 minute intervals on the FFT's to make it run as much as possible scenario's to simulate different heat output. I know these settings for the OC are stable anyway so yeah











CPU is delidded with CLU on the IHS - Die. Block to IHS is done with Prolimatech PK-1. Rad has 6x 120mm Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM controlled fans on it with the Swiftech PWM splitter. Running at about 80-90% speed i'm guessing at these temps as they are set to 100% @ 80c.

Oh and before you ask, as this is a overclocking forum so people will always comment on the overclock, Yes, the CPU IS this bad of an overclocker.. It needs baseclock adjusting and a whopping 1.480v in the BIOS (Offset, +0.275) to even run anywhere close to 5Ghz with HT on. It can't do it on 50x100 at all. No matter what the voltages are. For 4.8 she needs 1.396v and for 4.6 she needs 1.276v. That's why I use it as a daily driver in this rig as it's absolutely no good for benching haha.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Write
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..
> 
> This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..


my that was a dirty block is that the only block in the loop? I've cleaned my h220x block 3 times now most I've seen is some black shavings from cutting the tubes I didn't realize I hadn't cleaned out...was that the original coolant¿ Looks like it broke down a bit...


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..
> 
> This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned it completely with a soft brush and made it shine again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also flushed the rad and pump with demineralized water (got it from the local autoparts shop) and refilled the unit with the same demineralized water + some biocide just to be sure lol.
> 
> After some proper bleeding of the air and refilling + leak testing I can safely say she's running very well again.
> 
> Some temp results on a quick heat test w/ Prime95 27.9 AVX running a 10GB RAM Blend with 2 minute intervals on the FFT's to make it run as much as possible scenario's to simulate different heat output. I know these settings for the OC are stable anyway so yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU is delidded with CLU on the IHS - Die. Block to IHS is done with Prolimatech PK-1. Rad has 6x 120mm Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM controlled fans on it with the Swiftech PWM splitter. Running at about 80-90% speed i'm guessing at these temps as they are set to 100% @ 80c.
> 
> Oh and before you ask, as this is a overclocking forum so people will always comment on the overclock, Yes, the CPU IS this bad of an overclocker.. It needs baseclock adjusting and a whopping 1.480v in the BIOS (Offset, +0.275) to even run anywhere close to 5Ghz with HT on. It can't do it on 50x100 at all. No matter what the voltages are. For 4.8 she needs 1.396v and for 4.6 she needs 1.276v. That's why I use it as a daily driver in this rig as it's absolutely no good for benching haha.


do you live by Santa? OMG those idle temps







My stock 2700k with a H320 has never seen idle that low ...........


----------



## Imprezzion

It only does that when booting Windows with Coretemp set to boot with Windows..

Actual idle temps are high 20's to low 30's with EIST on and high 30's to low 40's with EIST off. Ambient 20-21c.

And yeah, that was the only block in the loop for the last couple of months. Original coolant as well. I bought some extra HydrX PM 2.
I did at one point have a Koolance VID-NXTTN 780 block on it with a reference 780 but sold that pretty quickly again and that block was perfectly clean..

I honestly don't know what that stuff was, nor the yellow-ish flakes in it, but it works fine now









The GPU Idle temp is always 4c above ambient so..







It's cooled by a Accelero Hybrid II with custom housing and active aircooled VRM block. Does still have the stock rad and such for easy swapping graphics cards.

EDIT:

In-game temps for anyone who cares. (BF4 & WoT). GPU is running at about 58c constant even though it's getting half warm air from my CPU rad.


----------



## TK421

On newer revision of the swiftech kits, what is replaced from the parts list that would prevent the water inside from clogging up eventually?

I suppose this "fix" was not fast enough to be implemented to Glacer models from cooler master?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> On newer revision of the swiftech kits, what is replaced from the parts list that would prevent the water inside from clogging up eventually?
> 
> I suppose this "fix" was not fast enough to be implemented to Glacer models from cooler master?


The tubing was changed to a plasticizer-free variety.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The tubing was changed to a plasticizer-free variety.


So if I buy the CM glacer, changing the tubes to, let's say, primochill tube. The gunk problem will not happen?


----------



## Mega Man

So is it true cm lost the lawsuit with the patent troll?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So is it true cm lost the lawsuit with the patent troll?


Yes, but Asetek aren't trolling. It's in their right to sue, as CM probably ignored the patent as long they could.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So is it true cm lost the lawsuit with the patent troll?


Yes, had to pay substantial royalties - http://www.asetek.com/press-room/news/2014/asetek-announces-significant-victory-in-intellectual-property-lawsuit/


----------



## Mega Man

That sucks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So is it true cm lost the lawsuit with the patent troll?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but Asetek aren't trolling. It's in their right to sue, as CM probably ignored the patent as long they could.
Click to expand...

No it isn't. There is a thing called patent trolling. Asecrap should never of been given a patent for it in the first place ( pump on block ) as swiftech had had apogee drove out longer then asecrap had been in existence.

If you actually do research you will see asecrap patents basically say they own pc cooling. Water, aio and air.

It is the same as when apple sued over rectangle with rounded corners. Just because they did and won does not mean it is legal. I still can not believe we in the us have not delt with patent trolls.

Patent trolls do not help anyone and only raise the cost of products.


----------



## bluedevil

Got a question about adding a rad to the H220-X setup, namely the MCR-H220 and adding a full GPU block as compared to 2 EK 240 PE, EK DDC with res top?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Got a question about adding a rad to the H220-X setup, namely the MCR-H220 and adding a full GPU block as compared to 2 EK 240 PE, EK DDC with res top?


I can't speak about the EK but I have a H220-X with an additional 120mm rad and full gpu block and it does very well. I have a 4690K OCed to 4.5 GHz and it idles at 28C and max I have seen while stress testing is 60C. The gpu does even better I have a MSI GTX 970 and it idles at the same temp but max temps I have seen have been 50C.

I would imagine it would do even better with 2X240 rads.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Got a question about adding a rad to the H220-X setup, namely the MCR-H220 and adding a full GPU block as compared to 2 EK 240 PE, EK DDC with res top?


sorry but i dont understand the question


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry but i dont understand the question


lol whats better? Yeah....not in there...


----------



## Mega Man

personal pref, the 220 woul be just five but the ek will have less restriction


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> lol whats better? Yeah....not in there...


The EK loop will have more powerful cooling, but if you already have that Swiftech cooler then it's just a question of expanding it









And if it is the pump power you are thinking about then the pump in the H220-X is pretty strong and can easily power itself, cpu, gpu and a radiator, the only concern i would have is the tiny reservoir on the H220-X where the EK pump/res combo has a much bigger reservoir = more coolant to dissipate the heat.

btw. you could probably use the swiftech you have now and a expand it with the EK combo and the radiators you want and have a waterloop with dual pumps


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Got a question about adding a rad to the H220-X setup, namely the MCR-H220 and adding a full GPU block as compared to 2 EK 240 PE, EK DDC with res top?


Expanding the kit with the mcr 220 rad is a perfectly fine option and will give you acceptable temperatures the flow wont be hampered from the extra rad that much and will do well... the ek kit does have a pump and res which will add redundancy and more flow but probably will only save you a few degrees on load temperatures...redundancy is the biggest plus to buying the ek kit... but cost wise it wont net you any huge performance gains but it will be quite a bit easier to fill and bleed due to being able to just run the pump on the ek res and fill the loop that way... Its all in what you are willing to spend and whether you will add a second gpu with block or w/e later..if you dont care about redundancy or have the need for two cards etc the cheaper route will be the h220 rad as they are clearancing them i believe... i just picked one up a bit ago for like 35 or 40 bucks...in fact i have two gpus and two extra rads on mine...with acceptable temperatures... but thats pushing the pumps limits i believe as gpu blocks are more restrictive than radiators in general..the flow is still good fwiw... im not sure on the price difference but i bought a mcp50x and the mcp35 res (which works with the 50x) for around 85 dollars and the h220 rad was like 35 - 40 so 120 - 130 for it all i just having installed the pump and res yet... lazyness is the devils handywork









EDIT: looking around unless you are buying used you would spend quite a bit more on the ek setup.. as much as 70 dollars more... it really depends on what you are looking for... more information is needed


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> So you are thinking of expanding an h220x kit or are you thinking on making a loop with either setup...if you are thinking of expanding your current kit the h220x pump will handle that h220 rad and gpu block not even breaking a sweat with perfectlly fine temperatures.. if you bought the ek kit in this scenario you would have pump redundancy and more flow and possible get a slightly better cooling efficiency... if you are thinking on a setup with either of these without expanding an h220x kit or the like the ek kit is the clear winner as you still need a pump and res for the mcr h220 rad which will likely cost comparable and not cool quite as well...really need more information... its kinda lacking in your post even after the post below original


Just contemplating between equipment in a CM 120 Elite mITX case. Gonna do a radbox of sorts. Only have room for about 2 240s with fans and a tube res.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just contemplating between equipment in a CM 120 Elite mITX case. Gonna do a radbox of sorts. Only have room for about 2 240s with fans and a tube res.


gotcha i did a bunch of edits while you posted this as i misread apparently.. but given that information the only question is how much are you willing to spend...the ek setups will bit a bit pricier.. and will only give you a few degress better temperatures..mcp50x is a pretty beasty pump i think @geggeg did a good comparison between the mcp50 and mcp35 which would give you an idea of how much more head pressure and flow it has... also you can use any reservoir you want with a male to male fitting on either of the mcp pumps....im not saying not to get the ek kit but either way you go you will be getting much better performance.. it really does come down to cost in this case... and if the few degress difference matters to you... with that kind of rad space on one cpu and gpu the temp difference will be marginal at best....

heres his review... very well done
http://www.overclock.net/products/swiftech-mcp50x-pump/reviews/6876


----------



## DyndaS

Hi,

Anyone use 220X to cool CPU (i5 OC) + GPU (970)? What are your temps after long gaming with ~1000 rpm on fans or lower?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Anyone use 220X to cool CPU (i5 OC) + GPU (970)? What are your temps after long gaming with ~1000 rpm on fans or lower?


If you only use 240 rad in the H220-X i would say you are looking at a max temp 70*c for the CPU and 45-to 55*c for the GPU.

But you would get much better thermals if you added another radiator to the H220-X, a 120 radiator is enough to ensure you get good consistent temps


----------



## DyndaS

I have 4690k @ 4,5 Ghz @ 1,16V + gtx970.

Im using noctua D14 (500-600 rpm) and in the games temps are max 55-60*C. Maby i will add some day another 240 or 120mm, but for now i think that i will use standard 240. Just dont wanna have more on my CPU then that what i have now... and just much cooler GPU + silent PC


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I have 4690k @ 4,5 Ghz @ 1,16V + gtx970.
> 
> Im using noctua D14 (500-600 rpm) and in the games temps are max 55-60*C. Maby i will add some day another 240 or 120mm, but for now i think that i will use standard 240. Just dont wanna have more on my CPU then that what i have now... and just much cooler GPU + silent PC


You need to remember the pump isn't silent, the watercooling kits can't really match a low spinning fan and a huge CPU cooler for the quietness. I you want a quiet watercooling setup you need some big radiators, so you run your fans on minimum RPM. But the H220-X is a nice kit but you might want to expand it with a 240 + radiator if you want a silent build.









But the Noctua D14 is a beast of a cooler which gives most CLC's a hard time, but you could just buy the 140 mm version of the swiftech and then use it to only cool the GPU


----------



## DyndaS

Im thinkig about new EK Predator 240mm, its look better and maby pump will be quiter? 6W DDC.


----------



## Kutalion

Swiftech has a better quality and stronger pump. Also Predator is significantly more expencive, while performing the same as H220-x while having higher speed 2200rpm fans.


----------



## VSG

The pump does seem better on the H220-X but it is impossible to do a straight up comparison due to them using different tops and being part of a rad/res/pump assembly where the radiator flow restriction comes into play also. The block and fans on the Predator are better, but in the end it comes down to if a particular CPU die-IHS heat transfer is the bottleneck. In my tests the Predator 240 performed better thermally, but is also more expensive as has been pointed out. If you intend on expansion then consider the Predator 360 instead if it fits. If not, I would not sell the H220-X and buy the Predator (or vice versa).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Im thinkig about new EK Predator 240mm, its look better and maby pump will be quiter? 6W DDC.


Actually, the pump on the Predator is louder, and positioning of it makes it more audible outside of the case. From the results I have seen, the Predator also requires higher fan rpm for like performance due to the high fpi rad.


----------



## DyndaS

@geggeg

I can just have predator 240 for lower price and you know...









@ciarlatano

Why do you thik that predator pump is louder? That is 3,1 DDC 6W and they are telling us that becouse of their solution there is no viration transfer on the case. Radiator is Coolstream PE.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> @geggeg
> 
> I can just have predator 240 for lower price and you know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ciarlatano
> 
> Why do you thik that predator pump is louder? That is 3,1 DDC 6W and they are telling us that becouse of their solution there is no viration transfer on the case. Radiator is Coolstream PE.


Both pumps run at a 6w max. I dont think there's any review that tests the pumps directly. I think the only site that tests the units side by side reference is TPU's review which has the 220x wintin ±1 degree centigrade for the most part slightly leaning towards the swiftech unit(but its within variance so for the most part is similar) in cooling performance.

when comparing the noise level on the next page, the EK unit+Fans is only relatively more silent at under 50% load relative to the swiftech pump+helix fans(this is due to ranges, as at 25%, Helix fans spin at twice the rpm than vardar fans). At higher RPM, the decibel range of the Vardar fans skyrockets and produces 6 decibels more than the helix fans on the 220x.

Given that the fans on the swiftech unit is designed to be louder than the pump in the correct environment(by design), pulling off silence on the EK unit will be harder as you are forced to use stronger fans due to both the thicker radiator and denser fins due to its design.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> @geggeg
> 
> I can just have predator 240 for lower price and you know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ciarlatano
> 
> Why do you thik that predator pump is louder? That is 3,1 DDC 6W and they are telling us that becouse of their solution there is no viration transfer on the case. Radiator is Coolstream PE.


I don't know why. I can only say that when I tested them that the Predator was noticeably louder.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Both pumps run at a 6w max. I dont think there's any review that tests the pumps directly. I think the only site that tests the units side by side reference is TPU's review which has the 220x wintin ±1 degree centigrade for the most part slightly leaning towards the swiftech unit(but its within variance so for the most part is similar) in cooling performance.
> 
> when comparing the noise level on the next page, the EK unit+Fans is only relatively more silent at under 50% load relative to the swiftech pump+helix fans(this is due to ranges, as at 25%, Helix fans spin at twice the rpm than vardar fans). At higher RPM, the decibel range of the Vardar fans skyrockets and produces 6 decibels more than the helix fans on the 220x.
> 
> Given that the fans on the swiftech unit is designed to be louder than the pump in the correct environment(by design), pulling off silence on the EK unit will be harder as you are forced to use stronger fans due to both the thicker radiator and denser fins due to its design.


Very well said.


----------



## v1ral

Has anyone direct die mounted the apogee XL?


----------



## DyndaS

That TechPowerUp test is a little weird for me becouse i have noctua NH-D14 and below 500-600 rpm fan speed i cant hear it at all... so when i compare it to other noctua coolers there thats look like predator pump shoudnt be possible to hear at 25% speed.

Their background is noisy or what???

btw. sorry for my english but im trying !


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> That TechPowerUp test is a little weird for me becouse i have noctua NH-D14 and below 500-600 rpm fan speed i cant hear it at all... so when i compare it to other noctua coolers there thats look like predator pump shoudnt be possible to hear at 25% speed.
> 
> Their background is noisy or what???
> 
> btw. sorry for my english but im trying !


they likely test in an open environment which means your case probably deadens the sounds... the equipment they use is also more sensitive than your ears... but that said a lot of reviews seem odd these days with inconsistencies..


----------



## HagbardCeline

Anyone know how long the 240-X's stay out of stock? I feel like it's been at least a month.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> Anyone know how long the 240-X's stay out of stock? I feel like it's been at least a month.


What resellers have you been looking at. I bought one two weeks ago new, from performance-pcs, granted they only had one in stock, but it wasn't marked up. $150.


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah the H220-X is out of stock at performance pcs, but they have good stock of the H240-X.


----------



## v1ral

I have a weird question..
Has anyone had mounting issues with the Apogee XL not putting enough force for proper TIM spread? I believe after mounting the block a few times the clamping force has either got weaker or I'm just doing it wrong.

Another question..
Has anyone change the mounting mechanism with say and EK one? Would this be a good idea to do? I plan*hopefully it works* to get the backplate and other odds and ends to change the mounts to the EK, and if it works.. perhaps try their Naked Mount and go direct Die.

Thoughts?


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> What resellers have you been looking at. I bought one two weeks ago new, from performance-pcs, granted they only had one in stock, but it wasn't marked up. $150.


Yeah, the other retailers seemed to jack the price up too much, although with the shipping prices, it will probably all come out about the same, ha ha. The Swiftech is the one thing I've been waiting for to finally put the computer together, so I'm glad it's finally on its way. Performance PCs had some other accessories I've been wondering about a source for (sleeves and the like). Hopefully they don't disappoint.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I had no idea there was a club for Swiftech.
I have the H240-X and it is my first water cooler. I am about to add a XPSC water block set to my H-240X loop. I am adding some UV reactive tubing and coolant to the mix. I should be able to get the new parts ordered in a few days as I am currently getting everything together.

When I add this stuff in I also plan on meticulously cleaning the inside of my case as it has a bad case of DUST! I will also be attempting to seal off most of the open areas to create a more positive airflow to hopefully keep more dust out.... That will be a task for some areas. My system is in my sig. My case is a Phantom 820.

1. Any pointers before I add this new set to my loop?

2. Any pointers on the best way to help seal off the open areas to my system to help keep the dust out?

Thanks in advance!

Bruce


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I had no idea there was a club for Swiftech.
> I have the H240-X and it is my first water cooler. I am about to add a XPSC water block set to my H-240X loop. I am adding some UV reactive tubing and coolant to the mix. I should be able to get the new parts ordered in a few days as I am currently getting everything together.
> 
> When I add this stuff in I also plan on meticulously cleaning the inside of my case as it has a bad case of DUST! I will also be attempting to seal off most of the open areas to create a more positive airflow to hopefully keep more dust out.... That will be a task for some areas. My system is in my sig. My case is a Phantom 820.
> 
> 1. Any pointers before I add this new set to my loop?
> 
> 2. Any pointers on the best way to help seal off the open areas to my system to help keep the dust out?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Bruce


No you should not block off open areas. There is a better way to prevent most dust from entering your system, which is called 



. If you watch the video he explains quite well how it works, but it's really simple. Just make sure you have more air being pushed in than being sucked out, and make sure your intakes are filtered (else it's kinda pointless). This way the excess air in your case will try to escape through those tiny air vents all around your case, instead of sucking it in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I have a weird question..
> Has anyone had mounting issues with the Apogee XL not putting enough force for proper TIM spread? I believe after mounting the block a few times the clamping force has either got weaker or I'm just doing it wrong.
> 
> Another question..
> Has anyone change the mounting mechanism with say and EK one? Would this be a good idea to do? I plan*hopefully it works* to get the backplate and other odds and ends to change the mounts to the EK, and if it works.. perhaps try their Naked Mount and go direct Die.
> 
> Thoughts?


no i have not heard of that, i have been using swiftech products a long time.

IMO i wouldnt mix and match mounting like that but if you want to you can


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> No you should not block off open areas. There is a better way to prevent most dust from entering your system, which is called
> 
> 
> 
> . If you watch the video he explains quite well how it works, but it's really simple. Just make sure you have more air being pushed in than being sucked out, and make sure your intakes are filtered (else it's kinda pointless). This way the excess air in your case will try to escape through those tiny air vents all around your case, instead of sucking it in.


I know about the "case positive pressure" which is exactly why I need to close off some of those areas. I could have all my fans pointed in except for one and I would still not have "case positive pressure". I have room to add one more fan to my case in one of those open areas and that is at the bottom directly in front of my PSU, but even that will not give me positive pressure. This case has a lot of large open areas that affect that. I have already closed off a couple of them using black duct tape and it helped some. The areas I closed off so far are the unused optical drive bays and the unused ports in the back like for PCIe connectors and what not. I know I need to add a couple of filters in a few areas (primarily the side fan but I also still need to find a filter that will cover that area. BTW, thanks for reminding me about that. I need to head over to the filter specialists and see what they have available.


----------



## s74r1

I sincerely hope Swiftech has fixed this issue by now on units currently being produced.



This was after RMA from bleed screw crack some months back. I think newer units are using stronger acrylic? Still doesn't make sense to screw so close to the edges.

Kudos to Swiftech support for taking care of me though and nearly bending over backwards for additional favors.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I sincerely hope Swiftech has fixed this issue by now on units currently being produced.
> 
> 
> 
> This was after RMA from bleed screw crack some months back. I think newer units are using stronger acrylic? Still doesn't make sense to screw so close to the edges.
> 
> Kudos to Swiftech support for taking care of me though and nearly bending over backwards for additional favors.


you are looking at their only option barring complete redesign or making the part non replaceable...


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I sincerely hope Swiftech has fixed this issue by now on units currently being produced.
> 
> 
> 
> This was after RMA from bleed screw crack some months back. I think newer units are using stronger acrylic? Still doesn't make sense to screw so close to the edges.
> 
> Kudos to Swiftech support for taking care of me though and nearly bending over backwards for additional favors.


Please PM me, so we can solve this issue.


----------



## Despotes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> Yeah, the other retailers seemed to jack the price up too much, although with the shipping prices, it will probably all come out about the same, ha ha. The Swiftech is the one thing I've been waiting for to finally put the computer together, so I'm glad it's finally on its way. Performance PCs had some other accessories I've been wondering about a source for (sleeves and the like). Hopefully they don't disappoint.


Is performance-pcs a reputable reseller? I've read some poor reviews.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Is performance-pcs a reputable reseller? I've read some poor reviews.


I brought my H220x from there and have brought stuff in the pass. Never had a problem with them yet..


----------



## Tim Drake

Hey Dango, I only just found out that Swiftech have a rep on here!!

Where is the best place to buy your products in the UK because of the patent problems and will you guys ever be able to sell in the UK without importing?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Hey Dango, I only just found out that Swiftech have a rep on here!!
> 
> Where is the best place to buy your products in the UK because of the patent problems and will you guys ever be able to sell in the UK without importing?


BACATA is the re-seller in the Europe. Because we don't have office in the Europe, so everything have to import from the US.


----------



## Despotes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I brought my H220x from there and have brought stuff in the pass. Never had a problem with them yet..


I placed an order for the 240-X with them. I hope I get it. lol


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> I placed an order for the 240-X with them. I hope I get it. lol


I just did an order less than a month ago for several WC parts and everything shipped and arrived with no problem.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Is performance-pcs a reputable reseller? I've read some poor reviews.


Recently purchased three times from them in the past three weeks. They are across the state from me and are fast on their email responses as well as preparing orders and getting them shipped the same day. They refunded me shipping when I had two separate orders and asked them to combine the orders. I bought a radiator that didn't fit and I shipped it back and they refunded me in full for store credit or I had an option of original payment but I think like 20% less. I had one issue just last week they sent me the wrong tubing size, so I asked top have it refunded as well as the $2.99 rush shipping and they did that promptly, although I was disappointed they shipped the wrong tubes. Overall, very happy with them.

I bought my 240x from them and it was legit so no issues. Just keep in mind their very short return policy. 3 days! So check your stuff immediately and don't just wait around for other parts to arrive before opening and checking your items!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> Yeah, the other retailers seemed to jack the price up too much, although with the shipping prices, it will probably all come out about the same, ha ha. The Swiftech is the one thing I've been waiting for to finally put the computer together, so I'm glad it's finally on its way. Performance PCs had some other accessories I've been wondering about a source for (sleeves and the like). Hopefully they don't disappoint.
> 
> 
> 
> Is performance-pcs a reputable reseller? I've read some poor reviews.
Click to expand...

They have been my fave for 5 years


----------



## Despotes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*
> 
> Recently purchased three times from them in the past three weeks. They are across the state from me and are fast on their email responses as well as preparing orders and getting them shipped the same day. They refunded me shipping when I had two separate orders and asked them to combine the orders. I bought a radiator that didn't fit and I shipped it back and they refunded me in full for store credit or I had an option of original payment but I think like 20% less. I had one issue just last week they sent me the wrong tubing size, so I asked top have it refunded as well as the $2.99 rush shipping and they did that promptly, although I was disappointed they shipped the wrong tubes. Overall, very happy with them.
> 
> I bought my 240x from them and it was legit so no issues. Just keep in mind their very short return policy. 3 days! So check your stuff immediately and don't just wait around for other parts to arrive before opening and checking your items!


Excellent. I'll check for function the day I get it.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Is performance-pcs a reputable reseller? I've read some poor reviews.


In my experience, they've been one of the best. No issues from my end, very helpful from the help I got. They even made a one off offer for me last year to custom cut an acrylic plate for the CPU block, any design I want for a very low price.

So yeah, they're good IMO.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> I placed an order for the 240-X with them. I hope I get it. lol


i used to buy everything from frozencpu but with their recent issues im not sure i would ever buy there unless i had proof their issues were fixed.. performance pcs has always done right by me and i dont mind buying from them... never had any issues with anything from them so i would have to agree with mega here they are my new fave... i just wish they would fix their damned website.. its so slow and disorganized..


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used to buy everything from frozencpu but with their recent issues im not sure i would ever buy there unless i had proof their issues were fixed.. performance pcs has always done right by me and i dont mind buying from them... never had any issues with anything from them so i would have to agree with mega here they are my new fave... i just wish they would fix their damned website.. its so slow and disorganized..


I go to frozencpu, and navigate there site, and find what i need and order at PPCs when i get my list ready


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spacetoast31*
> 
> I go to frozencpu, and navigate there site, and find what i need and order at PPCs when i get my list ready


Yes PerformancePC's site is a bad mess to navigate, it is very surprising that they sell anything at all, as their site is a jungle of crap in no specific order !


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Yes PerformancePC's site is a bad mess to navigate, it is very surprising that they sell anything at all, as their site is a jungle of crap in no specific order !


At lest, its better than before. I remember when they just change the website, I order $1500 dollar worth of stuffs, about 100 parts. They called me 4 hours later that the card information didn't record when I place the order, and tell me to order again. I try to reorder, but the page take forever to load, take from 5-30 mins. And next day got another call and its the same issue. I reorder like 3-4 times. Finally the order go throw. Then I got another call, half of my order are out of stock...


----------



## Bear304

Owwhhh that sucks big time

I only used them a few times "when i really had to" and then their page was really slow and hard to navigate as they sell so much that it every part is competing for air time, they seriously need to buy a new page for their online shop, or another new watercooling PC online shop will push them out.

And if you compare their site to the European online shops then PerformancePcs is far behind them when it comes to ease of use, i'm glad i live to Europe and isn't force to use PerformancePcs since FrozenCPU's broke down, EU has many major watercooling shops


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Owwhhh that sucks big time
> 
> I only used them a few times "when i really had to" and then their page was really slow and hard to navigate as they sell so much that it every part is competing for air time, they seriously need to buy a new page for their online shop, or another new watercooling PC online shop will push them out.
> 
> And if you compare their site to the European online shops then PerformancePcs is far behind them when it comes to ease of use, i'm glad i live to Europe and isn't force to use PerformancePcs since FrozenCPU's broke down, EU has many major watercooling shops


yep we are screwed here in the us.... not much in the way of watercooling...performance pcs, amazon, swiftech and the b and m stores like frys and microcenter (which are nowhere close to me) im sure there may be a few more but nothing within nearly 200 miles of me here as far as walk in stores...


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yep we are screwed here in the us.... not much in the way of watercooling...performance pcs, amazon, swiftech and the b and m stores like frys and microcenter (which are nowhere close to me) im sure there may be a few more but nothing within nearly 200 miles of me here as far as walk in stores...


It's a golden opportunity for a new crew to sit up shop and out perform PerformancePcs, which shouldn't be that hard, the hardware makers would surely jump at the bid to get more shops in North America to sell more of their parts at, but i think someone might have noticed this or someone will pretty soon as FrozenCPU's is in the ice-age now.

But i just think it is crazy how untapped the watercooling marked in the USA is, yet watercooling remains very popular.

This just a few of the major shops we have in Europe:
Coolerkit, Overclockers, AquaTuning, CaseKing, HighFlow and then the hardware makers who have their own shops like EK etc. etc.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> It's a golden opportunity for a new crew to sit up shop and out perform PerformancePcs, which shouldn't be that hard, the hardware makers would surely jump at the bid to get more shops in North America to sell more of their parts at, but i think someone might have noticed this or someone will pretty soon as FrozenCPU's is in the ice-age now.
> 
> But i just think it is crazy how untapped the watercooling marked in the USA is, yet watercooling remains very popular.
> 
> This just a few of the major shops we have in Europe:
> Coolerkit, Overclockers, AquaTuning, CaseKing, HighFlow and then the hardware makers who have their own shops like EK etc. etc.


Watercooling stores have come and gone. Two examples being Jabtech and Petra's Techshop, there are probably more. The big ones we have now are Performance PCs and Sidewinder. ModMyMod's has risen from the ashes of FrozenCPU (personally I didn't like shopping there because the owner always seems a little crazy/too many screws loose and that appears to be true lol) and is still working out the kinks and growing their inventory. I wanted to buy a 2nd MCP50X from them but they don't carry them... yet.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> It's a golden opportunity for a new crew to sit up shop and out perform PerformancePcs, which shouldn't be that hard, the hardware makers would surely jump at the bid to get more shops in North America to sell more of their parts at, but i think someone might have noticed this or someone will pretty soon as FrozenCPU's is in the ice-age now.
> 
> But i just think it is crazy how untapped the watercooling marked in the USA is, yet watercooling remains very popular.
> 
> This just a few of the major shops we have in Europe:
> Coolerkit, Overclockers, AquaTuning, CaseKing, HighFlow and then the hardware makers who have their own shops like EK etc. etc.


I would love to do this but it takes quite a bit of capital startup it would take someone with great credit or a good solid 25k to not care if they lost out to try. frozen was a great site to order from it was well done and setup well and good people working there.. they just had a self destructive boss


----------



## Mega Man

25k try several hundred thousand. Ins rent. Pay for emp. Pay for yourself as it gets off the ground. It adds up really really quick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> I placed an order for the 240-X with them. I hope I get it. lol
> 
> 
> 
> i used to buy everything from frozencpu but with their recent issues im not sure i would ever buy there unless i had proof their issues were fixed.. performance pcs has always done right by me and i dont mind buying from them... never had any issues with anything from them so i would have to agree with mega here they are my new fave... i just wish they would fix their damned website.. its so slow and disorganized..
Click to expand...

I don't mind their Web site lol it took a while but once you figure out how to use it it is fine

Fcpu is currently dead again. The new crew just walked out according according to the Facebook post I saw they didn't get paid.

I saw the past here on ocn yesterday out the day before. But I didn't subscribe


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 25k try several hundred thousand. Ins rent. Pay for emp. Pay for yourself as it gets off the ground. It adds up really really quick.
> I don't mind their Web site lol it took a while but once you figure out how to use it it is fine
> 
> Fcpu is currently dead again. The new crew just walked out according according to the Facebook post I saw they didn't get paid.
> 
> I saw the past here on ocn yesterday out the day before. But I didn't subscribe


I wasn't saying 25k was all I'm saying it would cost that much to get product and set up a page...even if you did it from home as a start that's a minimum startup


----------



## Bear304

Wow my Swiftech H220-X nearly died today after had cleaned it out. I had cleaned it out as i would make it ready for resell, i had flushed it and dried it and then i put it on the floor on some towels, and then disaster struck, a big heavy EK 3 cm extension fitting rolled of the table and bunched of the floor and landed right smack on one of the radiators pipes and left a nasty dent in it, i leak tested it in a waterbath and it is luckily not punctured, but damn... freak accident !!


----------



## rfarmer

That really sucks when you were wanting to resell it.


----------



## Mega Man

is it me or does that look like AL ?!?

the fins look copper

and ;_; sorry to hear


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That really sucks when you were wanting to resell it.


Yes, but hopefully i can hid the damage and sell it abit lower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> is it me or does that look like AL ?!?
> 
> the fins look copper
> 
> and ;_; sorry to hear


Yes your right those pipes looks awfully close to aluminium, if they are aluminium then that would explain why my tubing turned pink in my last loop, if the radiator had mixed metals in it's constructive, but i really thought it used an all copper radiator, but lol guess not, thanks alot Swiftech for a cheap surprise...




If those pipes are in fact aluminium then i might as well throw it in the trash bin as it would be worthless, as it is only the pump that holds value then !!!

-

(On Swiftech's page they claim they the materials in the radiator in brass pipes and copper fins, the fins i buy but the pipes sure an't brass as brass is a lot darker) and (Pre-filled with non-toxic propylene glycol coolant mix)

So they more or less say, hey we made a product with mixed metals that will corrode if not used with they special glycol mix... It all seems very fishy to me

And this is the brass end tank


----------



## Mega Man

they didnt used to be i am waiting for swiftech to comment, i will say if they used al i will be very very disappointed !~ ( you may also of damaged a top coat of paint but not the bottom primer as well)


----------



## sav4

@ bear304 where did you buy it from ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Yes your right those pipes looks awfully close to aluminium, if they are aluminium then that would explain why my tubing turned pink in my last loop, if the radiator had mixed metals in it's constructive, but i really thought it used an all copper radiator, but lol guess not, thanks alot Swiftech for a cheap surprise...
> 
> If those pipes are in fact aluminium then i might as well throw it in the trash bin as it would be worthless, as it is only the pump that holds value then !!!
> 
> -
> 
> (On Swiftech's page they claim they the materials in the radiator in brass pipes and copper fins, the fins i buy but the pipes sure an't brass as brass is a lot darker) and (Pre-filled with non-toxic propylene glycol coolant mix)
> 
> So they more or less say, hey we made a product with mixed metals that will corrode if not used with they special glycol mix... It all seems very fishy to me
> 
> And this is the brass end tank


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they didnt used to be i am waiting for swiftech to comment, i will say if they used al i will be very very disappointed !~ ( you may also of damaged a top coat of paint but not the bottom primer as well)


If Swiftech had started using aluminum in the rads, I would think we would have heard people screaming about it already. Interested to hear Swiftech's response.

And the glycol mix isn't very "special". It is off the shelf, basic coolant. You can use any coolant in these that is not a nano-fluid.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they didnt used to be i am waiting for swiftech to comment, i will say if they used al i will be very very disappointed !~ ( you may also of damaged a top coat of paint but not the bottom primer as well)


Heh me too

Btw i later scratched at the pipe to see if it was the paint coat and no, the whole paint coat had flaked off.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> @ bear304 where did you buy it from ?


I bought mine at HighFlow in Europe - but that really shouldn't matter much









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If Swiftech had started using aluminum in the rads, I would think we would have heard people screaming about it already. Interested to hear Swiftech's response.
> 
> And the glycol mix isn't very "special". It is off the shelf, basic coolant. You can use any coolant in these that is not a nano-fluid.


Well glycol is used alot to prevent corrosion in the case of using mixed metals, but it also extends the time the loop can run problem free.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Could it be nickle plated copper?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Could it be nickle plated copper?


Definitely not.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Definitely not.


Interesting then...perhaps the cooling channels are copper with an aluminum jacket to help dissipate the heat?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Interesting then...perhaps the cooling channels are copper with an aluminum jacket to help dissipate the heat?


The cooling channels are listed as brass - not copper. I'm waiting for Swiftech's response.


----------



## Dango

Hey guys. For ALL our radiators, they are all made of brass with copper fins, no aluminum/aluminium used. I hope this make everything clear and you guys don't need to worry about issue with mix metal.


----------



## Mega Man

so why does this tube look like this ?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so why does this tube look like this ?


This is the color of the pre-applied soldering flux.


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> This is the color of the pre-applied soldering flux.


Okay, well that answer that


----------



## Dango

Here is a picutre of the radiator cut off. You can see the water channels are made of brass.


----------



## Bear304

Thats a nice picture of the internals









I had a go at fixing my H220-X, still have to do a leak test, but i think it is good as it is only a dent. So a blund knife and black maker and 5 min later it ended up looking pretty good


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Thats a nice picture of the internals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a go at fixing my H220-X, still have to do a leak test, but i think it is good as it is only a dent. So a blund knife and black maker and 5 min later it ended up looking pretty good


can see the dent but the fins look good


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah that doesn't look too bad.


----------



## HagbardCeline

Received my H240-X today. Should I be worried that the radiator has a couple dings? Nothing huge. Everything else seems intact.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> Received my H240-X today. Should I be worried that the radiator has a couple dings? Nothing huge. Everything else seems intact.


A few dings are common. The fins itself are very fragile. When I got my radiators, my rad was in a similar situation with like 2 adjacent bent fins


----------



## Bear304

I filled up my H220-X with some blue EK coolant i didn't want to use in my current water loop, but as it is blue it is perfect for leak testing









I have just hook it up with a single tube going from out to inlet, and filled it up to the top, and then let it sit out in the garage for the last hour and it hasn't leaked yet, so it seems it has survived the accident, but it may had a tiny lowered flow rate, but as it is water then it will flow around the dent tube.




I'll leave it leak testing for about 24 hours, and then i'll see if i can find a local buyer for it


----------



## HagbardCeline

Man, ran into a big snag trying to install the H240-X. The mounting holes on the Vengeance C70 are too big for the screws that came with the H240-X. The goofy thing is, that they're also too big for the screws that came with the C70! Quick trip to the hardware store solved it, but still annoying.

I have it half mounted now. Trying to get the holes to line up on the other half. This is where I wish I'd gotten a case with a nice easy mounting channel for top-mounted fans.


----------



## paskowitz

Just got my H240-X. I have no idea what google is talking about, saying it doesn't fit in the Fractal Design R4.... it definitely fits. Top mounting will be hard depending on your motherboard, but front mounting fits like a glove. You can't use the top or bottom mounts, but two of the middle ones line right up. I then used some industrial Velcro for the four corners and I don't see it moving anytime soon.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just got my H240-X. I have no idea what google is talking about, saying it doesn't fit in the Fractal Design R4.... it definitely fits. Top mounting will be hard depending on your motherboard, but front mounting fits like a glove. You can't use the top or bottom mounts, but two of the middle ones line right up. I then used some industrial Velcro for the four corners and I don't see it moving anytime soon.


when they say it doesnt fit they mean it doesnt mount fully without being "improvised" when most people say something fits they mean its mounted in the way it was intended and clears all obstacles... but yeah you can make alot of things fit where they dont fit stock if you dont mind getting creative :0


----------



## HagbardCeline

Yeah, I had to get new screws and wrestle with the thing, but I finally got six screws to install on my C70. Solved it by leaving off the rubber rings and cheating the whole thing over slightly. Phew. PC Part Picker had a big red exclamation point for the H240-X in this case.


----------



## mastahg

Been using swiftech products for quite some time now, started with them with the first batch that was made available of the h220 and I've stuck with them up till now thanks to their stellar customer service. I had a few issues with my h220 over the years that I had it and SW service was always great. I loved their fast cross shipping and prepaid return labels made it a breeze to swap out the defective unit and drop in the new one. Now I have a h240-x and have had nothing but problems with their customer service. I purchased the h240-x last year during december as one of the last stock available, it arrived with a defective led in the waterblock that would flicker and sometimes not even work at all. Flash forward to last month where I went to reseat the heatsink as I had noticed my temperatures had risen quite a bit and after taking a look at the window a crack had formed near the bleed screw allowing air to get inside and a ton of algae was in the system,so I snapped a picture of it and sent it over to [email protected] and they got back to me quickly and setup an rma. Since the units heatsink led was also defective I asked them to please look into this as well and they said they would. Forward to the 6th I received the unit back the window had been replaced with a green one as they were out of clear and the led in the waterblock was still dysfunctional and the condition of the waterblocks copper plate was terrible, looks like rolled around in some grease and it now has a nice big scratch on it that wasn't on it before. I sent pictures of the led still not working when its hooked up to power supply and now they want me to pay to ship the unit back to them because they failed to notice how it didn't light up at all. I asked if it would be possible to get a replacement waterblock sent to me and I could send the defective one back but they said that was not possible and that the only options I have are to send the unit back or take a replacement board and swap it my self which would require soldering a bunch of contacts. For kicks I also drained a bit of the fluid and it seems like they didn't even flush the unit properly as there was still tons of particulate in the fluid. I don't know how SW's CS could drop from 10/10 to 2/10 so quickly but I do know the amount of SW products I purchased have dropped to 0 if this is how they will be treated if and when they get sent out for repair.

Attaching a picture of the damage to the waterblock:


----------



## zila

@ Mastahg: Please keep us informed as to what if anything they do for you and how they take care of you. I was thinking about purchasing an H220X but I'm gonna wait it out now.


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> @ Mastahg: Please keep us informed as to what if anything they do for you and how they take care of you. I was thinking about purchasing an H220X but I'm gonna wait it out now.


A bad sample doesn't mean they all bad, mine worked flawlessly, but i have upgraded to a full custom loop, and now i might sell my H220X to a guy who has got a GTX 690 dual GPU monster card that needs watercooling









So if you are considering buying it then just buy it, it is a really great product, there is a good reason this thread is mostly positive owner feedback


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> Been using swiftech products for quite some time now, started with them with the first batch that was made available of the h220 and I've stuck with them up till now thanks to their stellar customer service. I had a few issues with my h220 over the years that I had it and SW service was always great. I loved their fast cross shipping and prepaid return labels made it a breeze to swap out the defective unit and drop in the new one. Now I have a h240-x and have had nothing but problems with their customer service. I purchased the h240-x last year during december as one of the last stock available, it arrived with a defective led in the waterblock that would flicker and sometimes not even work at all. Flash forward to last month where I went to reseat the heatsink as I had noticed my temperatures had risen quite a bit and after taking a look at the window a crack had formed near the bleed screw allowing air to get inside and a ton of algae was in the system,so I snapped a picture of it and sent it over to [email protected] and they got back to me quickly and setup an rma. Since the units heatsink led was also defective I asked them to please look into this as well and they said they would. Forward to the 6th I received the unit back the window had been replaced with a green one as they were out of clear and the led in the waterblock was still dysfunctional and the condition of the waterblocks copper plate was terrible, looks like rolled around in some grease and it now has a nice big scratch on it that wasn't on it before. I sent pictures of the led still not working when its hooked up to power supply and now they want me to pay to ship the unit back to them because they failed to notice how it didn't light up at all. I asked if it would be possible to get a replacement waterblock sent to me and I could send the defective one back but they said that was not possible and that the only options I have are to send the unit back or take a replacement board and swap it my self which would require soldering a bunch of contacts. For kicks I also drained a bit of the fluid and it seems like they didn't even flush the unit properly as there was still tons of particulate in the fluid. I don't know how SW's CS could drop from 10/10 to 2/10 so quickly but I do know the amount of SW products I purchased have dropped to 0 if this is how they will be treated if and when they get sent out for repair.
> 
> Attaching a picture of the damage to the waterblock:


The LED on the block, as other LEDs are not easy to fail and that is the nature of LED. They have much longer MTBF than the unit. I have test your LED on the waterblock for 4-6 hours and it never blink or dead during that time. I also send you an E-mail ask you, if there is any other information that can help me reproduce the issue. And your reply is just return to you. Last week, you E-mail me state that the LED does not work at all after you received. I talk with our engineer about this issue and he state if everything connect current the only reason that LED not working is the solder on the cable have been pull out. I give you the option to send back the unit or send you a LED replacement LED PCB so you can change yourself without pay any shipping cause. And I NEVER mention you need to solder anything which you never need to. You request to send you a block for replacement, which we cannot do for those unit. I E-mail you said "If you don't want send the whole unit back, you can just send the block back for repair. It cheaper to ship" and you never E-mail me back.

The "damage" on the block, as any other copper based blocks, is the copper oxidized with air and thermal past. It normal and no impact on the performance.

For ALL RMA units, we flush for more than 20 mins using industrial pump, then rinse off and drain, last refill with coolant and bleed out air bubbles. There is less to no chance for debris still left in the loop. Even if there still debris in side the loop, we will see it during bleed process and re-flush the unit until no debris in side the loop.


----------



## reechings

Hi all, I finally upgraded my ancient Yorkfield rig recently to a 6700k based system. I purchased a h220x to go with it as I had seen many good reviews about both its noise levels and performance. I wanted to see if anyone here could tell me if my temps sound normal. When running prime95 v28.7 on preset blend stress test with my vcore at 1.344 under load my temps are pushing 84 degrees on the hottest core with my fans and pump maxed out. I have a fractal arc midi with decent airflow. Thanks!


----------



## mastahg

There is a giant gash on the heatsinks waterblock now that wasn't there when I packed it up, its deep enough that if i run my thumbnail over it it gets caught by it. This is not oxidation this is physical damage. The unit was in absolute pristine condition when I shipped it to you with no thermal paste on it.

As for not mentioning solder how else do you expect me to replace the board? The power cord that supplies the board with power is first threaded through the hole and then soldered onto the board, I figured this much out when I took it apart after you suggested replacing just the board. And that's also when I found the problem looks like a poor soldering job left one of the power connections unconnected and was probably just barley touching it during your tests and during the shipping back it got knocked around. This problem is clearly evident if you had even taken 30 seconds to actually look at the board.

Heres a picture of the board and the unconnected power line.

http://i.imgur.com/jxRaveQ.jpg

Please explain how this board can be replaced without doing any soldering.

I shouldn't have to pay anymore shipping to ship you something you failed to take care of and exacerbated on the first trip as well.


----------



## Danbeme32

@ Dango, Am having an issue with my pump on my H220x, A couple of months ago I had to send my unit for RMA because of very low rpm. and it would not go up.. About a month ago I notice that the new pump got stuck at a high rpm around 2900-3000 and it will not go down. It was said that it could be my mother board. I did place it in another rig and it stay the same high rpm. Twice i was able to adjust the rpm but lately it just stays high.

I am planning on expanding the loop and add a gpu block that I have for my card. My concern will be that the pump goes bad after I connect my gpu block. Let me know what I could do..Thanks..



As you can see I lowered the rpm but it stay the same speed. I could hear the fans lowering speed tho..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reechings*
> 
> Hi all, I finally upgraded my ancient Yorkfield rig recently to a 6700k based system. I purchased a h220x to go with it as I had seen many good reviews about both its noise levels and performance. I wanted to see if anyone here could tell me if my temps sound normal. When running prime95 v28.7 on preset blend stress test with my vcore at 1.344 under load my temps are pushing 84 degrees on the hottest core with my fans and pump maxed out. I have a fractal arc midi with decent airflow. Thanks!


Be careful with prime95 as I have heard some bad things about it here lately. It is apparently gaining status as a cpu killer. From what I have heard one of the updates in the last two years does something to cpu's and can damage them to either fail horribly or damage them so they degrade much faster than they should. By gaining ground I mean that there are people reporting having problems with their cpus but the last time they ran prime95 it passed but now it doesn't.

When I first started OCing my current 4930k cpu I was able to hit 4.4 fine but after running prime95 it will not hit anything higher than 4.3ghz no matter my vcore. I run it 24/7 at 4.3ghz with no problems whatsoever so far. But I can't hit 4.4ghz no matter what I do.

Now for my question:

I have a H-240X in my system (which is in my sig). I will be adding to my loop here soon to cool the MB (also will be getting a replacement 4930k) with a XSPC Rampage 4 Black Waterblock Set. I have been told that the H-240X can easily handle the extra load. But I may also soon be water cooling my graphics card. Can the H-240X handle all that or should I look at getting another radiator/pump set up like the H-220?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Be careful with prime95 as I have heard some bad things about it here lately. It is apparently gaining status as a cpu killer. From what I have heard one of the updates in the last two years does something to cpu's and can damage them to either fail horribly or damage them so they degrade much faster than they should. By gaining ground I mean that there are people reporting having problems with their cpus but the last time they ran prime95 it passed but now it doesn't.
> 
> When I first started OCing my current 4930k cpu I was able to hit 4.4 fine but after running prime95 it will not hit anything higher than 4.3ghz no matter my vcore. I run it 24/7 at 4.3ghz with no problems whatsoever so far. But I can't hit 4.4ghz no matter what I do.
> 
> Now for my question:
> 
> I have a H-240X in my system (which is in my sig). I will be adding to my loop here soon to cool the MB (also will be getting a replacement 4930k) with a XSPC Rampage 4 Black Waterblock Set. I have been told that the H-240X can easily handle the extra load. But I may also soon be water cooling my graphics card. Can the H-240X handle all that or should I look at getting another radiator/pump set up like the H-220?


The pump will handle it, if you add a gpu to it I'd add a extra radiator for optimal temps on both .


----------



## paskowitz

I have a really stubborn bubble caught in the pump (H240-X). I have my entire loop outside of my case and have been twisting and turning and shaking it every which way. (so yes, I have read the OP). Any tips?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> The pump will handle it, if you add a gpu to it I'd add a extra radiator for optimal temps on both .


So I only a need a radiator and not another pump? That's awesome!

Any recommendations for the additional rad or just stick with SwiftTech?


----------



## sav4

Yer it's a pretty common question 2 pumps would give you a back up incase one failed but not needed .
Swiftech make good rads so do ek just pick a low restriction one , I go for the thinner rads so noise is kept to a min with fans .
Edit what case do you have ?


----------



## Mega Man

Swiftech rads are great for silence ( they are marked qp irrc ) but any you like is fine


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> @ Dango, Am having an issue with my pump on my H220x, A couple of months ago I had to send my unit for RMA because of very low rpm. and it would not go up.. About a month ago I notice that the new pump got stuck at a high rpm around 2900-3000 and it will not go down. It was said that it could be my mother board. I did place it in another rig and it stay the same high rpm. Twice i was able to adjust the rpm but lately it just stays high.
> 
> I am planning on expanding the loop and add a gpu block that I have for my card. My concern will be that the pump goes bad after I connect my gpu block. Let me know what I could do..Thanks..
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I lowered the rpm but it stay the same speed. I could hear the fans lowering speed tho..


A friend of mine had the exact same problem you're having. If you notice on screen it says fan power 0 = 1192 RPM, the rest it's set to max RPM. This was a bug with his BIOS and he had to reset the BIOS to factory default using a jumper (check your manual). Note that loading default values inside the BIOS will not fix this. It seems to be a conflict between the ASUS BIOS and AI Suite 3. He completely removed the software, reset the BIOS using the jumper method, set up a RPM curve within the BIOS and now it works. For the record I have the same motherboard and never had this issue with my H240-X.

Just saying this might not be a pump fail.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastahg*
> 
> There is a giant gash on the heatsinks waterblock now that wasn't there when I packed it up, its deep enough that if i run my thumbnail over it it gets caught by it. This is not oxidation this is physical damage. The unit was in absolute pristine condition when I shipped it to you with no thermal paste on it.
> 
> As for not mentioning solder how else do you expect me to replace the board? The power cord that supplies the board with power is first threaded through the hole and then soldered onto the board, I figured this much out when I took it apart after you suggested replacing just the board. And that's also when I found the problem looks like a poor soldering job left one of the power connections unconnected and was probably just barley touching it during your tests and during the shipping back it got knocked around. This problem is clearly evident if you had even taken 30 seconds to actually look at the board.
> 
> Heres a picture of the board and the unconnected power line.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/jxRaveQ.jpg
> 
> Please explain how this board can be replaced without doing any soldering.
> 
> I shouldn't have to pay anymore shipping to ship you something you failed to take care of and exacerbated on the first trip as well.


I believe he is saying he would send you a replacement assembly of board led and connector...I'm doubting they would send you bare board as they probably don't solder them in house...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> A friend of mine had the exact same problem you're having. If you notice on screen it says fan power 0 = 1192 RPM, the rest it's set to max RPM. This was a bug with his BIOS and he had to reset the BIOS to factory default using a jumper (check your manual). Note that loading default values inside the BIOS will not fix this. It seems to be a conflict between the ASUS BIOS and AI Suite 3. He completely removed the software, reset the BIOS using the jumper method, set up a RPM curve within the BIOS and now it works. For the record I have the same motherboard and never had this issue with my H240-X.
> 
> Just saying this might not be a pump fail.


ai suite had this problem on it's own with fans too...most people don't use it because of it's conflicts and buggyness...it's a great program if only it worked as intended ask the time and didn't conflict with overclocking programs and such...there have been a lot of issues blamed on hardware that was ai suite being crap...on my pc it kept telling me my core temp on cpu was 170c lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I have a really stubborn bubble caught in the pump (H240-X). I have my entire loop outside of my case and have been twisting and turning and shaking it every which way. (so yes, I have read the OP). Any tips?


did you try a drop of dish soap?...but be sure it isn't one with bleach


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Swiftech rads are great for silence ( they are marked qp irrc ) but any you like is fine


Cool. Since I have plenty of space at the bottom of my massive case I may just put it down there.
Wouldn't it be prudent to get another pump just for the GPU set up since there will be is so much travel space in my case?

For those that haven't looked in my sig I have a Phantom 820.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Cool. Since I have plenty of space at the bottom of my massive case I may just put it down there.
> Wouldn't it be prudent to get another pump just for the GPU set up since there will be is so much travel space in my case?
> 
> For those that haven't looked in my sig I have a Phantom 820.


Added restriction from long tubing runs is minimal. The single pump in the H220/240X will handle it fine.


----------



## s74r1

Warranty successfully voided









Radiator converted to standalone. Copper plate bolted onto the reservoir/pump hole with a piece of EPDM rubber tubing to seal it. Fillport being used as alternative port. Had to dremel down the pump/res mount to fit my build too. Pressure tested good, but for some reason there's been a piece of metal inside my rad for months I can't get out even with full blast faucet pressure.


MCP30 with reservoir top removed


Closeup of the original res top - good machining, clean exits on the flow chamber. yucky green stuff is from running distilled for awhile without any additives


And the complete conversion to a MCP50X sort of. I wonder what the differences are between the MCP30 and MCP50X? just lower power or cheaper construction materials? They're identical form factors and same impeller design as far as I can tell.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Warranty successfully voided
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the complete conversion to a MCP50X sort of. I wonder what the differences are between the MCP30 and MCP50X? just lower power or cheaper construction materials? They're identical form factors and same impeller design as far as I can tell.


iirc the difference is pump speed/power of the motor and slightly different top for better pressure...more junk in the trunk :0 Just to say i really like this... the ghetto thread would like this too


----------



## v1ral

Question.
I plan to expand my H220X with a Nemesis 360GTS L series radiator and after reading the Xtreme Radiator round up it's pretty restrictive.
Will the H220X pump handle it and a gpu block in the future?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Question.
> I plan to expand my H220X with a Nemesis 360GTS L series radiator and after reading the Xtreme Radiator round up it's pretty restrictive.
> Will the H220X pump handle it and a gpu block in the future?


easily...i have two gpus and three radiators running off of mine.. which is pushing it but it works fine


----------



## michael-ocn

Last week I got my h240x, spent some time overclocking a 5820k with it over the weekend. Its a very nice cooler. Keeps a 4.4GHz hexacore in the neighborhood of 70c.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Last week I got my h240x, spent some time overclocking a 5820k with it over the weekend. Its a very nice cooler. Keeps a 4.4GHz hexacore in the neighborhood of 70c.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


70 deg for 4.4 ghz? That seems kind of high.
I have a 4930k running at 4.3 ghz and my temps stay in the mid to low 30's. But I also have mine in a mostly closed off case so that may be why your are running so high.
Unless I am missing something about the 5820k.

Is it normal for that chip to run temps that high?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Last week I got my h240x, spent some time overclocking a 5820k with it over the weekend. Its a very nice cooler. Keeps a 4.4GHz hexacore in the neighborhood of 70c.


did you test your spread at all to check your mount...solid pressure then 1/4 turn alternating corners on mount...I always check my spread to ensure the amount I use is just right...I've found different tubes can have different consistency meaning more or less is needed for that perfect spread


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 70 deg for 4.4 ghz? That seems kind of high.
> I have a 4930k running at 4.3 ghz and my temps stay in the mid to low 30's. But I also have mine in a mostly closed off case so that may be why your are running so high.
> Unless I am missing something about the 5820k.
> 
> Is it normal for that chip to run temps that high?


Low 30's at full load on that CPU with a Swiftech AIO? I want to see that, screenshots or it didn't happen


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Low 30's at full load on that CPU with a Swiftech AIO? I want to see that, screenshots or it didn't happen


Antarctica air lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Low 30's at full load on that CPU with a Swiftech AIO? I want to see that, screenshots or it didn't happen


Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.

I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.
> 
> I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.


iirc mega mans build holds in the thirties under full load but he's got more rads than I have case lol...definitely not an aio


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.
> 
> I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.


Listed temps should always be assumed as full load, as it makes no sense to compare idle temps at all. My 5930K tops out at 45 degrees Celsius with Prime 95, stock speeds on my H240-X.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.
> 
> I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.


That's why i posted a screenshot to be clear, p95 running at fullload with temps ranging from 59 to 72 depending on whether you looking at the mobo cpu sensor vs core sensors or the package sensor. That was with the core voltage around 1.2v. I think it might be aida stable closer to 1.15v? I have to test some more. At the lower voltage temps are noticiably lower too. I haven't 'checked the spread yet, when I move it into the case this week, i'll unmount and remount.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Listed temps should always be assumed as full load, as it makes no sense to compare idle temps at all. My 5930K tops out at 45 degrees Celsius with Prime 95, stock speeds on my H240-X.


I think they should mention what load it is under for the temps they post.
I have run into a few posts that mention high temps like that but they are either under normal load or at idle, which isn't good. I have also seen posts where they have installed their water cooler and it is running high temps under normal load and thought it was normal. So I never assume that it is at full load unless they mention it. Maybe it is bad that I assume they are not under full load but it is better to be safe than sorry....

I don't run prime95 nor will I ever again until they get the issue with killing cpu's fixed. I believe it was prime95 that killed my cpu's ability to OC at a decent clock speed. I was running it to get a good stable high OC and after I think my third run it would not OC over 4.3 no matter what I did. I didn't think it was prime95 that did this at first until it was explained to me the issues with prime95 that some people have been having in the last two years.

Come to think of it the last few times I was rendering in 3d (which puts a full load on my CPU) my temps didn't go above the mid 50's. I may have to investigate that further.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's why i posted a screenshot to be clear, p95 running at fullload with temps ranging from 59 to 72 depending on whether you looking at the mobo cpu sensor vs core sensors or the package sensor. That was with the core voltage around 1.2v. I think it might be aida stable closer to 1.15v? I have to test some more. At the lower voltage temps are noticiably lower too. I haven't 'checked the spread yet, when I move it into the case this week, i'll unmount and remount.


My bad, I didn't look at the pics. I barely do because sometimes they are not as clear as yours are (or they are to small). My vcore is a little high at 1.36 but any lower and I loose stability. I am happy with the temps my CPU currently runs at. Once I get my replacement 4930k I will hopefully be able to hit a higher OC and we'll see what my temps are then.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I think they should mention what load it is under for the temps they post.
> I have run into a few posts that mention high temps like that but they are either under normal load or at idle, which isn't good. I have also seen posts where they have installed their water cooler and it is running high temps under normal load and thought it was normal. So I never assume that it is at full load unless they mention it. Maybe it is bad that I assume they are not under full load but it is better to be safe than sorry....
> 
> I don't run prime95 nor will I ever again until they get the issue with killing cpu's fixed. I believe it was prime95 that killed my cpu's ability to OC at a decent clock speed. I was running it to get a good stable high OC and after I think my third run it would not OC over 4.3 no matter what I did. I didn't think it was prime95 that did this at first until it was explained to me the issues with prime95 that some people have been having in the last two years.
> 
> Come to think of it the last few times I was rendering in 3d (which puts a full load on my CPU) my temps didn't go above the mid 50's. I may have to investigate that further.


Your right to be careful with p95. I don't run v28.7 with haswell. I was running p95 v27.9 in that screenshot, but even hat version still over does avx.Temps are 5 to 10c cooler running p95 v26.6 which i think predates the avx instruction set.

I'm not sure what to use for a stability litmus test anymore? With my old lynnfield system prime was great for that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> This is the color of the pre-applied soldering flux.


I was assuming that was what it was, good to know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Your right to be careful with p95. I don't run v28.7 with haswell. I was running p95 v27.9 in that screenshot, but even hat version still over does avx.Temps are 5 to 10c cooler running p95 v26.6 which i think predates the avx instruction set.
> 
> I'm not sure what to use for a stability litmus test anymore? With my old lynnfield system prime was great for that.


Aida64 and OCCT are my go-to stress programs, and are being used more and more in reviews.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was assuming that was what it was, good to know.
> Aida64 and OCCT are my go-to stress programs, and are being used more and more in reviews.


Same here. OCCT being my favorite as I like the interface and the saved screenshots.


----------



## Dango

For stress test on Haswell, you can use ASUS realbench. P95 without AVX is not harmful for the CPU. You can turn off AVX in the setting file. OCCT is too gentle like AIDA64 without AVX, and there is a lot of bugs with thermal sensor and voltage sensor.


----------



## Danbeme32

@Dango
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> A friend of mine had the exact same problem you're having. If you notice on screen it says fan power 0 = 1192 RPM, the rest it's set to max RPM. This was a bug with his BIOS and he had to reset the BIOS to factory default using a jumper (check your manual). Note that loading default values inside the BIOS will not fix this. It seems to be a conflict between the ASUS BIOS and AI Suite 3. He completely removed the software, reset the BIOS using the jumper method, set up a RPM curve within the BIOS and now it works. For the record I have the same motherboard and never had this issue with my H240-X.
> 
> Just saying this might not be a pump fail.


Thanks for the help but it still in high rpm.. I uninstalled the software and reset the bios but it is still the same.. I even put it it in another rig that has an asus pro mb. And that didn't work. I guest I have to rma this baby and put my loop in pause for now..


----------



## d0mmie

For the record I use Prime95 25.9 Build 4. Never had any issues with this one cooking CPU's.


----------



## michael-ocn

I've been using a mix of tools: x264 and x265 video encoding benches, aida (cpu+fpu+cache), realbench, p95 v279 (blend), and OCCT. Some of those use avx instructions but not to the extent that p95 v285 does. I think OCCT is tougher to pass than the others, my 5820k [email protected] oc does not pass that.


----------



## Danbeme32

Well I came home from work and found out the pump dead.. It not spinning what so ever.. I guess I just had to wait till this happens to finally say the pump is bad.. Now to go through the RMA [email protected]#t..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.
> 
> I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> iirc mega mans build holds in the thirties under full load but he's got more rads than I have case lol...definitely not an aio
Click to expand...

hahaha between 50s-60s depending how much i turn down my ac but my 3930k is @ 4.8/1.4v/2400 ram !~ besides i only have 5x480s for this rig

my 8350 iirc is ~ 62-64, myt other 8350 on a h220 is about the same but lower oc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not at full load, the OP didn't mention full load.
> 
> I hit between 62 to 65 deg at full load in my system, I don't think I have ever seen this system hit 70 deg. Though I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Listed temps should always be assumed as full load, as it makes no sense to compare idle temps at all. My 5930K tops out at 45 degrees Celsius with Prime 95, stock speeds on my H240-X.
Click to expand...

+1 on all accounts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I think they should mention what load it is under for the temps they post.
> I have run into a few posts that mention high temps like that but they are either under normal load or at idle, which isn't good. I have also seen posts where they have installed their water cooler and it is running high temps under normal load and thought it was normal. So I never assume that it is at full load unless they mention it. Maybe it is bad that I assume they are not under full load but it is better to be safe than sorry....
> 
> I don't run prime95 nor will I ever again until they get the issue with killing cpu's fixed. I believe it was prime95 that killed my cpu's ability to OC at a decent clock speed. I was running it to get a good stable high OC and after I think my third run it would not OC over 4.3 no matter what I did. I didn't think it was prime95 that did this at first until it was explained to me the issues with prime95 that some people have been having in the last two years.
> 
> Come to think of it the last few times I was rendering in 3d (which puts a full load on my CPU) my temps didn't go above the mid 50's. I may have to investigate that further.
> 
> 
> 
> Your right to be careful with p95. I don't run v28.7 with haswell. I was running p95 v27.9 in that screenshot, but even hat version still over does avx.Temps are 5 to 10c cooler running p95 v26.6 which i think predates the avx instruction set.
> 
> I'm not sure what to use for a stability litmus test anymore? With my old lynnfield system prime was great for that.
Click to expand...

personally if it dont pass prime i wont use the oc, yes even haswell even with avx/avx2.0, if oyur overheating then you need to back off, that is my opinion, other wise if you dont like that check the thread for your CPU. i also use a mix of p95, ibt/avx ( THIS IS NOT IBT-- the difference can be seen in gflops ) after which i convert at least one bluray to disk if i can pass that i am good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Well I came home from work and found out the pump dead.. It not spinning what so ever.. I guess I just had to wait till this happens to finally say the pump is bad.. Now to go through the RMA [email protected]#t..


not like it is that bad, i would rather do swiftech then most companies


----------



## Danbeme32

I know its not bad but its my second one in 5 months...So I be down for 3 weeks on that rig and its my folding rig too..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally if it dont pass prime i wont use the oc, yes even haswell even with avx/avx2.0, if oyur overheating then you need to back off, that is my opinion, other wise if you dont like that check the thread for your CPU. i also use a mix of p95, ibt/avx ( THIS IS NOT IBT-- the difference can be seen in gflops ) after which i convert at least one bluray to disk if i can pass that i am good.


First It has been explained to me why prime95 is not realistic.
Second I have talked to plenty of people that said their system can't stay stable after a half hour on prime95 yet they have their system OC'd and it runs fine playing high end games for lengthy periods of time and they never have a problem. One gentleman I talked to on Tom's forums has his CPU at full load quite often for lengthy periods of time and he has trouble passing prime95. I believe he told me he stopped using it years ago because it was unrealistic.

FYI my system never overheated on prime95, it got to about the mid 60's at best. No matter what stress test I run be it prime95, OCCT or some other the PC BSODS right after starting it at 4.4 ghz. I am very stable at 4.3ghz, I play plenty of newer games and put my CPU under full load quite often, though sometimes I do cringe in anticipation when rendering a pixel heavy scene and waiting for my PC to shut down....lol, but it never does.


----------



## michael-ocn

This is a good read on the topic of stress testing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stressing
> 
> 
> 
> _*NOTE: Do not stress on adaptive!*_
> 
> *Why are my temps so high? What's up with different core temps?*
> 
> Which test are you running on what setting? Double check with the chart down below. For example, Aida64 full suite is NOT the same as Aida64 FPU test only. IBT is hotter than Prime 27.9 but not hotter than Prime 28.3 on small. Prime 27.9 is cooler than Prime 28.3.
> Ensure you are not getting Vcore spikes due to adaptive voltage while stressing on synthetics.
> If your temp from one core is 10C+ hotter or cooler than some other core in a load that loads all CPU to 100%, it might be a thermal paste application error. Pea method, folks. 10C degree difference and lower is NORMAL on stress tests.
> Does your cooler just suck? Are you trying to apply Sandy Bridge voltages onto Haswell?
> It is hypothesized that some temperature variance between CPUs is normal because the way the gunk inside the CPU under the IHS is applied is spotty, better in some and worse than others. While this is NOT backed up by actual scientific testing, it makes sense and accounts for the temperature variance.
> Hyperthreading makes the CPU hotter. This means 4770k might run hotter than 4670k.
> 
> *'I must pass all stress tests!'*
> This kind of thinking might had merit in previous generation CPUs, but in Haswell at least, it is a load of bollocks. As you can see from my chart below, the range of temperatures vary wildy from test to test. We are talking about a 45C difference in temperatures. If I had stuck to Linpack or go home, I would be down from 4.6ghz to 4.1ghz. (This is backed up by testing.) This is insane. Linpack is so ridiculously hot, so completely out there, it's not worth counting. The mentality of passing all tests for the sake of stability is more irrational than you might presume at first glance. That kind of mentality means passing whatever test people happen to be able to make. If nobody made Linpack, then you would think your CPU is stable. If somebody made Linpack 2.0 that makes Linpack 1.0 look like child's play, then you might as well never overclock, because Linpack is throttling a few people at STOCK. Indeed, Linpack uses AVX2 which is a new instruction set, but so does x264, and that is one of the coldest benchmarks. Stressing AVX2 set doesn't nessesarily mean high temps and failing Linpack doesn't mean AVX2 instability. And how will you know when to stop stress testing under the original ideology? You can only estimate. Computers are built for using, not for stress testing. If you're running Linpack, and you're under the opinion that you must pass all possible tests, you need to update the math logic for Linpack and run it at MAX setting. That means using up all of your available ram for the largest problem size.
> 
> Run 2-3 different types of stressing programs, and then use your computer normally. If you crash, then it's not stable. What's stable for you might not be stable enough for me. Some people need 100% reliability because of their jobs. Some people can handle a Bsod once a week. NO, saying that you want to pass Linpack 'just in case you use your CPU to extreme limits' is complete hooey. Prime95 is already ridiculous. Linpack is ridiculous on top of ridiculous on top of unicorn blood powered by the core of the sun, worshipped by space aliens. What if there comes out a new normal application that uses as much CPU power as Linpack? Well, there is no hint of that happening, so this is just a 'what if'. Well, what if there comes out a new application that throttles you at stock? Then let's all downclock our CPUs! If you insist on passing every test just because, fine, just don't expect any half-decent overclock. If I hit 95C+ easily at 1.2v with D14, there is no way anybody can hit 1.25v+ with Linpack set to max even after delid and x60 Kraken. And guess what, the average voltage setting for the OC results chart is 1.3v, so what does this tell you? You'll be lucky to stay on 1.25v after delid and liquid cooling and having a stable setting because between Prime 28.3, which discovers stability issues like a god and Linpack at max which raises temps like a god, you will be severely hampered by the combination of both tests.
> 
> Don't give me that 'If you crash on anything, you're unstable, period' crap. Anything is decided by whatever program people decided to make. And if your definition of the word stable means not crashing in anything, ever, then I don't care about what you call stability. You will never know if something is stable by your own criteria because if you pass Prime for 500 hours, what's to say the 501th hour will be stable? That's right, you stop at some arbitrary time. I care about the computer not crashing often enough to annoy me. And that could be once a week, once a month, once a year, never, every 5 seconds. But as long as I'm fine with it, that's all that matters because it's MY CPU.
> 
> If you're ever Bsoding 'too much', all you have to do, if you are in the heat of the moment, is to lower the multiplier by one and BOOM, rock solid stability.
> ---
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was testing, the only stress test that Bsoded me was beta Prime.
> 
> Refer to the temperature chart! Different versions of the same test will have different temperatures. Most notably is Linpack (some versions don't have AVX2) and Prime (28.3 is considered hotter). Also note in Aida that the setting you pick changes your resulting temperature. XTU Bench is hotter than XTU Stress. XTU Bench temperature increases as ram speed increases. Expect up to a 10% temperature variance. Don't forget, the settings I ran for the chart is listed in the Excel picture just above.
> 
> You will not hit those temperatures under normal operation. If you hit 95C you might be fine outside of stress testing. It's very unlikely your games will seriously stress your CPU across multiple cores. The temperatures of x264 and chess tell you what temps you will see as a worst case scenario realistically.
> 
> *x264: The Cool Stresser*
> I highly recommend trying x264 encoding test if you are looking for a stressful nonsynthetic stress test. Nonsynthetic meaning temps will not be very high, being only a notch higher than normal 100% CPU load. Voltage will not increase dramatically like in Prime95 if you are using adaptive. But it'll still be very stressful, often causing crashes in an hour at most. For a peace of mind I recommend running x264 looped all night as you sleep once, and if it passes, it's stable. We have managed to produce a x264 version modified for stressing purposes instead of benchmarking purposes.
> 
> Angelotti made a nice post with his tweaked and optimized version of x264. It is a little more stressful than standard x264 and has a few small improvements over the original x264. (This version has the Loop.exe built into the application itself; no fiddling with different exes.) This is the recommended version of x264 to use by default.
> 
> Version 2.06
> 9/15/2015
> https://mega.nz/#!ywAFDQQQ!hEQCeRXDKpHoeRYEaspux3ZA9Smx6tp8h0leb7ZHdJo
> 
> For those who want the original x264 for some reason, below is a link. It also includes an early version of the loop functionality.
> http://www.2shared.com/file/yNZzmwrI/x264_Stability_Test.html
> 
> *x264 is the recommended and the default go-to stress test for this thread.* If you feel the need to use a hotter test that is your right but know that your overclock may be hampered by that choice. You could forego delidding in many cases simply by switching to x264. The default prescription for a stable CPU is a pass of overnight x264. Overnight means you set it to run when you start sleeping and if you wake up to a stable computer, you're good to go. That's a good idea because then x264 will not lag your computer while you're using it and you can easily go 8-12 hours without using the computer as you're asleep during that time.
> 
> *Chess: The Easy Stresser*
> One test easier to pass is chess. I recommend using Arena GUI and Stockfish engine. Both are free. This is the easiest test to pass out of all of my suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Prime95:*
> For some people, being unstable causes Prime95 to stop. This can come in the form of Prime95 outright crashing and closing entirely, or having a core or three simply stop working with an error noted. This means your overclock failed the test.
> 
> Prime Beta (version 28.5): ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v285.win64.zip
> Prime 27.9: ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v279.win64.zip
> 
> *Software Monitoring:*
> We recommend using HWinfo. HWInfo is the best if you want all the info in one place and you want tons of info. To measure and check your C-state settings you can only use HWMonitor or HWInfo. For me, the VCore is under my motherboard section, which may be confusing. It should be changing a lot. You need to use the latest version of the software! First check to see you have the latest version! *The guide assumes you use HWinfo.*
> 
> I do not recommend using CPUZ. It has always been sketchy with the Vcore reading but some people are saying some versions are fixed. I'd rather use HWinfo and get all of my temps, voltages, etc in one place with VID and Vcore and Uncore all shown without glitches.
> 
> Can't find VCCIN/Vrin on HWinfo? On Asus motherboards, try looking for VCOREREFIN.
> 
> *Battlefield 3:*
> This game is known for being easily unstable under an overclock. Some people consider this a better test of stability than even Linpack! For Battlefield 4, be careful because crashes may be due to immature drivers for GPU or software issues!
> 
> *Battlefield 4:*
> ...Is currently still unstable as a game. So in terms of stability testing, it's of limited use. But if you BSod, well, that's still probably CPU overclock, not a crashy game. If the game just crashes, blame the game.
> 
> *'Prime95 is not Certified for Haswell'*
> Right, another unsubstantiated rumor floating around. No software is ever certified with a CPU. There isn't a committee that goes around with official badges handing out official certification after a 10 step process, ok? There have been zero proven reports of CPU death due to Prime95. You can say, better safe than sorry, in which I reply with, don't even overclock then! Nothing is absolute, but the data has come in and it shows the scare being unsubstantiated. Look at the chart, there are piles of people who stress with Prime95. Half of the misconceptions stirred from a claim that Prime raised voltages way above what is normal. YES, if you run it on adaptive. But the same thing happens for every other synthetic, Prime isn't special in any way. It just so happens that Prime is often the first stress test people run, and if they don't know about adaptive stressing, they will freak out at the voltages before they know the full picture.
> 
> *Input Voltage and Uncore increasing temps: The Verdict*
> No significant or easily measurable increase in temps were present. The temperatures were within margin of error. Tested with Prime95 28.3 with HWinfo.
> 
> Test settings:
> 
> Default Setting:
> 
> 43/34
> 1.25/1.18
> 1.9v VrinA
> 
> Testing Uncore increase in temps:
> 43/31
> 1.25/1.28
> 1.9v Vrin
> 
> Testing Uncore + Input Voltage:
> 
> 43/34
> 1.25/1.28
> 2.15v
> 
> *Extra Note:*
> Haswell is still a new launch. That means programs associated with it will constantly get updates. Older versions of Prime are easier to pass than newer ones. Many programs have glitches. There are idiosyncrasies. The only way to iron out what's what is with your cooperation, and lots of communication.
> 
> *ProTips:*
> If you want to find out when your computer Bsoded for whatever reason, you can look at Windows/Minidump. It is time stamped.
> 
> You can find out how stable your setting is by running a stress test and seeing how long it takes to crash. I tested what VCCIN is optimal by running x264 runs, 1.85, 1.95, 2.05v, 2.15v VCCIN and I recorded how long it took to crash after five tests. This is how I figured out I needed 2.15v VCCIN.


----------



## gary66

Does anyone know any SFF (mATX max) size cases with a window that would fit a H220-X in an aesthetically pleasing location?

I fell in love with the Corsair Air 240 and then thought I could stick it vertically in the front but I figured out that my video card is a little bit too long to do that. I could fit it at the top of the case but there would be no room for fans. I will be adding another 240mm rad to the loop so I am contemplating just sticking the H220-x with no fans at the top then have the rad with fans on the front but I am not sure how well a passive setup would work.

The setup if I did it passively would be H220-x >CPU>GPU>front rad >H220-x so the "cooler" water would be returning to the H220-x.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> Does anyone know any SFF (mATX max) size cases with a window that would fit a H220-X in an aesthetically pleasing location?
> 
> I fell in love with the Corsair Air 240 and then thought I could stick it vertically in the front but I figured out that my video card is a little bit too long to do that. I could fit it at the top of the case but there would be no room for fans. I will be adding another 240mm rad to the loop so I am contemplating just sticking the H220-x with no fans at the top then have the rad with fans on the front but I am not sure how well a passive setup would work.
> 
> The setup if I did it passively would be H220-x >CPU>GPU>front rad >H220-x so the "cooler" water would be returning to the H220-x.


i think the phanteks evolv might work?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> Does anyone know any SFF (mATX max) size cases with a window that would fit a H220-X in an aesthetically pleasing location?
> 
> I fell in love with the Corsair Air 240 and then thought I could stick it vertically in the front but I figured out that my video card is a little bit too long to do that. I could fit it at the top of the case but there would be no room for fans. I will be adding another 240mm rad to the loop so I am contemplating just sticking the H220-x with no fans at the top then have the rad with fans on the front but I am not sure how well a passive setup would work.
> 
> The setup if I did it passively would be H220-x >CPU>GPU>front rad >H220-x so the "cooler" water would be returning to the H220-x.


Yeah the Phanteks Evolv mATX also gets my vote.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah the Phanteks Evolv mATX also gets my vote.


It looks promising but I have a external dimension limit that I forgot about and the Phanteks is a little bit too tall.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> It looks promising but I have a external dimension limit that I forgot about and the Phanteks is a little bit too tall.


http://www.raidmax.com/hyperion.html Raidmax Hyperion is an interesting case, has 240mm support in the front, top and side (dual Chamber). Plus it is only 14 1/2" or 368mm tall.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.raidmax.com/hyperion.html Raidmax Hyperion is an interesting case, has 240mm support in the front, top and side (dual Chamber). Plus it is only 14 1/2" or 368mm tall.


Ooo! That one looks nice! I'll check it out.


----------



## paskowitz

Cross post from 980 ti Owners Club:

Just got my 980ti under water. Please excuse my Moto X's potato camera.



First thing, don't ask why I had to tape my fan to my radiator... I don't want to talk about it. This is my first (and likely last) custom loop.









Loop: Swiftech H240-X > 980 ti Classy (TIM: CLU, Fujipoly 17W/mK) > Swiftech Apogee XL (Delid w/CLU, TIM: CLU) > Alphacool Nex. XT45 140mm

The Swiftech H240-X and AlphaCool Nex. XT45 140mm (46mm depth) is barely enough for a OC'd 4790K and Classy. In games like pCARS, which uses both CPU and GPU pretty heavily my CPU temps go into the low 60C's and my GPU temps are in the high 60C's. That being said, other games don't fair as badly. GTAV for example is high 50C's. Ambient is about 23C. Those temps are also 6 hour loops (AI drivers around endlessly). Fans set to a curve, pump at max. I would say the fans were at ~70% most of the time. When I stress only the CPU (XTU) or GPU (Unigen benchs) I get temps in the low to mid 50C's.

Clocks (stable in game) are ~1540/8100 w/73.9% ASIC. That is coming from ~1500/8000 on air. Not a huge improvement, but my system is quiet at full load and that was my main goal.

My biggest gripe is not being able to have my fans change based on the GPU temps. Some games are very GPU heavy, but CPU light. This makes it very hard to set an appropriate fan curve when you can only bind fan speed to CPU temp. If anyone has any solution to this issue, I am all ears!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Cross post from 980 ti Owners Club:
> 
> Just got my 980ti under water. Please excuse my Moto X's potato camera.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing, don't ask why I had to tape my fan to my radiator... I don't want to talk about it. This is my first (and likely last) custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop: Swiftech H240-X > 980 ti Classy (TIM: CLU, Fujipoly 17W/mK) > Swiftech Apogee XL (Delid w/CLU, TIM: CLU) > Alphacool Nex. XT45 140mm
> 
> The Swiftech H240-X and AlphaCool Nex. XT45 140mm (46mm depth) is barely enough for a OC'd 4790K and Classy. In games like pCARS, which uses both CPU and GPU pretty heavily my CPU temps go into the low 60C's and my GPU temps are in the high 60C's. That being said, other games don't fair as badly. GTAV for example is high 50C's. Ambient is about 23C. Those temps are also 6 hour loops (AI drivers around endlessly). Fans set to a curve, pump at max. I would say the fans were at ~70% most of the time. When I stress only the CPU (XTU) or GPU (Unigen benchs) I get temps in the low to mid 50C's.
> 
> Clocks (stable in game) are ~1540/8100 w/73.9% ASIC. That is coming from ~1500/8000 on air. Not a huge improvement, but my system is quiet at full load and that was my main goal.
> 
> My biggest gripe is not being able to have my fans change based on the GPU temps. Some games are very GPU heavy, but CPU light. This makes it very hard to set an appropriate fan curve when you can only bind fan speed to CPU temp. If anyone has any solution to this issue, I am all ears!


If your MB has a temp sensor input, you can control your fans based on _liquid temperature_ - which would be a combo of CPU and GPU and is really what should be monitored. You could also get a fan controller that allows for this.

I know some people have gotten SpeedFan (or similar) to work using GPU temp as the variable, but I would be no help there since I have never had need to attempt it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If your MB has a temp sensor input, you can control your fans based on _liquid temperature_ - which would be a combo of CPU and GPU and is really what should be monitored. You could also get a fan controller that allows for this.
> 
> I know some people have gotten SpeedFan (or similar) to work using GPU temp as the variable, but I would be no help there since I have never had need to attempt it.


What about something like the Corsair Link Commander Mini?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What about something like the Corsair Link Commander Mini?


I haven't used one. Theoretically it should work.....but Corsair Link software doesn't exactly have the best track record as far as actually working in practice, so who knows.


----------



## Dango

Asus new fan extension card also a good choice for control different fan zone in water cooling. It have 4 fan ports and 3 sensors. I am kind like it since my Aquaero 5 that I bought does not fit my moded case anymore....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Asus new fan extension card also a good choice for control different fan zone in water cooling. It have 4 fan ports and 3 sensors. I am kind like it since my Aquaero 5 that I bought does not fit my moded case anymore....


I was under the impression the card was only available with the X99 Deluxe. Did they finally make them available separately?


----------



## Dango

Then do come separable when they launch the X99 deluxe. I believe some Z170 also support that card. But I don't know witch, heven't really look in to it yet.


----------



## paskowitz

According to Asus the fan card from the X99 Deluxe is coming (not yet released).

The Corsair Link Commander Mini works in largely the same way. Unfortunately unlike the i series Corsair AIOs it does not read GPU temps off of the motherboard and relies on temp sensors (for GPU).

As far as I can tell, there is no fan controller/software combo that can read all temps (CPU, Mobo, HDD, GPU, etc) from the motherboard and assign individual PWM fan curves to those temps (outside of Corsair Link w/i series AIOs). IMO this is kind of baffling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> According to Asus the fan card from the X99 Deluxe is coming (not yet released).
> 
> The Corsair Link Commander Mini works in largely the same way. Unfortunately unlike the i series Corsair AIOs it does not read GPU temps off of the motherboard and relies on temp sensors (for GPU).
> 
> As far as I can tell, there is no fan controller/software combo that can read all temps (CPU, Mobo, HDD, GPU, etc) from the motherboard and assign individual PWM fan curves to those temps (outside of Corsair Link w/i series AIOs). IMO this is kind of baffling.


Which is why monitoring liquid temp is done. That is really the temp that matters - if you keep the liquid cool, the components stay cool.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What about something like the Corsair Link Commander Mini?


I hear it works well on Win7. I've only used it on Win8.1 and Win10, it has issues on both. But when it works properly it's nice. I've got water temp sensor hooked up to it and 2x Swiftech PWM splitters controlling 13 fans or so.


----------



## sav4

@paskowitz I think doyll had a way of controlling fan curves off gpu temps but can't find the post maybe pm him .
Edit found it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data#post_22319246


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> @paskowitz I think doyll had a way of controlling fan curves off gpu temps but can't find the post maybe pm him .
> Edit found it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data#post_22319246


This is awesome! Worth rep in my book!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally if it dont pass prime i wont use the oc, yes even haswell even with avx/avx2.0, if oyur overheating then you need to back off, that is my opinion, other wise if you dont like that check the thread for your CPU. i also use a mix of p95, ibt/avx ( THIS IS NOT IBT-- the difference can be seen in gflops ) after which i convert at least one bluray to disk if i can pass that i am good.
> 
> 
> 
> First It has been explained to me why prime95 is not realistic.
> Second I have talked to plenty of people that said their system can't stay stable after a half hour on prime95 yet they have their system OC'd and it runs fine playing high end games for lengthy periods of time and they never have a problem. One gentleman I talked to on Tom's forums has his CPU at full load quite often for lengthy periods of time and he has trouble passing prime95. I believe he told me he stopped using it years ago because it was unrealistic.
> 
> FYI my system never overheated on prime95, it got to about the mid 60's at best. No matter what stress test I run be it prime95, OCCT or some other the PC BSODS right after starting it at 4.4 ghz. I am very stable at 4.3ghz, I play plenty of newer games and put my CPU under full load quite often, though sometimes I do cringe in anticipation when rendering a pixel heavy scene and waiting for my PC to shut down....lol, but it never does.
Click to expand...

realistic isnt the issue. realistic DOES NOT make or break stability. you can look below for what i mean as i will go further into it

this will be the only time i post on this, as i know several people get their feelings hurt and try to make a food fight out of it. you can take it as you want. that is fine, some people dont care about stability which is their choice, but I dont recommend it

i wanted to also state that that i never said you had to do anything ( using a generic "you", not a finger pointing "you" ) so i highlighted my original text
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> This is a good read on the topic of stress testing.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stressing
> 
> 
> 
> _*NOTE: Do not stress on adaptive!*_
> 
> *Why are my temps so high? What's up with different core temps?*
> 
> Which test are you running on what setting? Double check with the chart down below. For example, Aida64 full suite is NOT the same as Aida64 FPU test only. IBT is hotter than Prime 27.9 but not hotter than Prime 28.3 on small. Prime 27.9 is cooler than Prime 28.3.
> Ensure you are not getting Vcore spikes due to adaptive voltage while stressing on synthetics.
> If your temp from one core is 10C+ hotter or cooler than some other core in a load that loads all CPU to 100%, it might be a thermal paste application error. Pea method, folks. 10C degree difference and lower is NORMAL on stress tests.
> Does your cooler just suck? Are you trying to apply Sandy Bridge voltages onto Haswell?
> It is hypothesized that some temperature variance between CPUs is normal because the way the gunk inside the CPU under the IHS is applied is spotty, better in some and worse than others. While this is NOT backed up by actual scientific testing, it makes sense and accounts for the temperature variance.
> Hyperthreading makes the CPU hotter. This means 4770k might run hotter than 4670k.
> 
> *'I must pass all stress tests!'*
> This kind of thinking might had merit in previous generation CPUs, but in Haswell at least, it is a load of bollocks. As you can see from my chart below, the range of temperatures vary wildy from test to test. We are talking about a 45C difference in temperatures. If I had stuck to Linpack or go home, I would be down from 4.6ghz to 4.1ghz. (This is backed up by testing.) This is insane. Linpack is so ridiculously hot, so completely out there, it's not worth counting. The mentality of passing all tests for the sake of stability is more irrational than you might presume at first glance. That kind of mentality means passing whatever test people happen to be able to make. If nobody made Linpack, then you would think your CPU is stable. If somebody made Linpack 2.0 that makes Linpack 1.0 look like child's play, then you might as well never overclock, because Linpack is throttling a few people at STOCK. Indeed, Linpack uses AVX2 which is a new instruction set, but so does x264, and that is one of the coldest benchmarks. Stressing AVX2 set doesn't nessesarily mean high temps and failing Linpack doesn't mean AVX2 instability. And how will you know when to stop stress testing under the original ideology? You can only estimate. Computers are built for using, not for stress testing. If you're running Linpack, and you're under the opinion that you must pass all possible tests, you need to update the math logic for Linpack and run it at MAX setting. That means using up all of your available ram for the largest problem size.
> 
> Run 2-3 different types of stressing programs, and then use your computer normally. If you crash, then it's not stable. What's stable for you might not be stable enough for me. Some people need 100% reliability because of their jobs. Some people can handle a Bsod once a week. NO, saying that you want to pass Linpack 'just in case you use your CPU to extreme limits' is complete hooey. Prime95 is already ridiculous. Linpack is ridiculous on top of ridiculous on top of unicorn blood powered by the core of the sun, worshipped by space aliens. What if there comes out a new normal application that uses as much CPU power as Linpack? Well, there is no hint of that happening, so this is just a 'what if'. Well, what if there comes out a new application that throttles you at stock? Then let's all downclock our CPUs! If you insist on passing every test just because, fine, just don't expect any half-decent overclock. If I hit 95C+ easily at 1.2v with D14, there is no way anybody can hit 1.25v+ with Linpack set to max even after delid and x60 Kraken. And guess what, the average voltage setting for the OC results chart is 1.3v, so what does this tell you? You'll be lucky to stay on 1.25v after delid and liquid cooling and having a stable setting because between Prime 28.3, which discovers stability issues like a god and Linpack at max which raises temps like a god, you will be severely hampered by the combination of both tests.
> 
> Don't give me that 'If you crash on anything, you're unstable, period' crap. Anything is decided by whatever program people decided to make. And if your definition of the word stable means not crashing in anything, ever, then I don't care about what you call stability. You will never know if something is stable by your own criteria because if you pass Prime for 500 hours, what's to say the 501th hour will be stable? That's right, you stop at some arbitrary time. I care about the computer not crashing often enough to annoy me. And that could be once a week, once a month, once a year, never, every 5 seconds. But as long as I'm fine with it, that's all that matters because it's MY CPU.
> 
> If you're ever Bsoding 'too much', all you have to do, if you are in the heat of the moment, is to lower the multiplier by one and BOOM, rock solid stability.
> ---
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was testing, the only stress test that Bsoded me was beta Prime.
> 
> Refer to the temperature chart! Different versions of the same test will have different temperatures. Most notably is Linpack (some versions don't have AVX2) and Prime (28.3 is considered hotter). Also note in Aida that the setting you pick changes your resulting temperature. XTU Bench is hotter than XTU Stress. XTU Bench temperature increases as ram speed increases. Expect up to a 10% temperature variance. Don't forget, the settings I ran for the chart is listed in the Excel picture just above.
> 
> You will not hit those temperatures under normal operation. If you hit 95C you might be fine outside of stress testing. It's very unlikely your games will seriously stress your CPU across multiple cores. The temperatures of x264 and chess tell you what temps you will see as a worst case scenario realistically.
> 
> *x264: The Cool Stresser*
> I highly recommend trying x264 encoding test if you are looking for a stressful nonsynthetic stress test. Nonsynthetic meaning temps will not be very high, being only a notch higher than normal 100% CPU load. Voltage will not increase dramatically like in Prime95 if you are using adaptive. But it'll still be very stressful, often causing crashes in an hour at most. For a peace of mind I recommend running x264 looped all night as you sleep once, and if it passes, it's stable. We have managed to produce a x264 version modified for stressing purposes instead of benchmarking purposes.
> 
> Angelotti made a nice post with his tweaked and optimized version of x264. It is a little more stressful than standard x264 and has a few small improvements over the original x264. (This version has the Loop.exe built into the application itself; no fiddling with different exes.) This is the recommended version of x264 to use by default.
> 
> Version 2.06
> 9/15/2015
> https://mega.nz/#!ywAFDQQQ!hEQCeRXDKpHoeRYEaspux3ZA9Smx6tp8h0leb7ZHdJo
> 
> For those who want the original x264 for some reason, below is a link. It also includes an early version of the loop functionality.
> http://www.2shared.com/file/yNZzmwrI/x264_Stability_Test.html
> 
> *x264 is the recommended and the default go-to stress test for this thread.* If you feel the need to use a hotter test that is your right but know that your overclock may be hampered by that choice. You could forego delidding in many cases simply by switching to x264. The default prescription for a stable CPU is a pass of overnight x264. Overnight means you set it to run when you start sleeping and if you wake up to a stable computer, you're good to go. That's a good idea because then x264 will not lag your computer while you're using it and you can easily go 8-12 hours without using the computer as you're asleep during that time.
> 
> *Chess: The Easy Stresser*
> One test easier to pass is chess. I recommend using Arena GUI and Stockfish engine. Both are free. This is the easiest test to pass out of all of my suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Prime95:*
> For some people, being unstable causes Prime95 to stop. This can come in the form of Prime95 outright crashing and closing entirely, or having a core or three simply stop working with an error noted. This means your overclock failed the test.
> 
> Prime Beta (version 28.5): ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v285.win64.zip
> Prime 27.9: ftp://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v279.win64.zip
> 
> *Software Monitoring:*
> We recommend using HWinfo. HWInfo is the best if you want all the info in one place and you want tons of info. To measure and check your C-state settings you can only use HWMonitor or HWInfo. For me, the VCore is under my motherboard section, which may be confusing. It should be changing a lot. You need to use the latest version of the software! First check to see you have the latest version! *The guide assumes you use HWinfo.*
> 
> I do not recommend using CPUZ. It has always been sketchy with the Vcore reading but some people are saying some versions are fixed. I'd rather use HWinfo and get all of my temps, voltages, etc in one place with VID and Vcore and Uncore all shown without glitches.
> 
> Can't find VCCIN/Vrin on HWinfo? On Asus motherboards, try looking for VCOREREFIN.
> 
> *Battlefield 3:*
> This game is known for being easily unstable under an overclock. Some people consider this a better test of stability than even Linpack! For Battlefield 4, be careful because crashes may be due to immature drivers for GPU or software issues!
> 
> *Battlefield 4:*
> ...Is currently still unstable as a game. So in terms of stability testing, it's of limited use. But if you BSod, well, that's still probably CPU overclock, not a crashy game. If the game just crashes, blame the game.
> 
> *'Prime95 is not Certified for Haswell'*
> Right, another unsubstantiated rumor floating around. No software is ever certified with a CPU. There isn't a committee that goes around with official badges handing out official certification after a 10 step process, ok? There have been zero proven reports of CPU death due to Prime95. You can say, better safe than sorry, in which I reply with, don't even overclock then! Nothing is absolute, but the data has come in and it shows the scare being unsubstantiated. Look at the chart, there are piles of people who stress with Prime95. Half of the misconceptions stirred from a claim that Prime raised voltages way above what is normal. YES, if you run it on adaptive. But the same thing happens for every other synthetic, Prime isn't special in any way. It just so happens that Prime is often the first stress test people run, and if they don't know about adaptive stressing, they will freak out at the voltages before they know the full picture.
> 
> *Input Voltage and Uncore increasing temps: The Verdict*
> No significant or easily measurable increase in temps were present. The temperatures were within margin of error. Tested with Prime95 28.3 with HWinfo.
> 
> Test settings:
> 
> Default Setting:
> 
> 43/34
> 1.25/1.18
> 1.9v VrinA
> 
> Testing Uncore increase in temps:
> 43/31
> 1.25/1.28
> 1.9v Vrin
> 
> Testing Uncore + Input Voltage:
> 
> 43/34
> 1.25/1.28
> 2.15v
> 
> *Extra Note:*
> Haswell is still a new launch. That means programs associated with it will constantly get updates. Older versions of Prime are easier to pass than newer ones. Many programs have glitches. There are idiosyncrasies. The only way to iron out what's what is with your cooperation, and lots of communication.
> 
> *ProTips:*
> If you want to find out when your computer Bsoded for whatever reason, you can look at Windows/Minidump. It is time stamped.
> 
> You can find out how stable your setting is by running a stress test and seeing how long it takes to crash. I tested what VCCIN is optimal by running x264 runs, 1.85, 1.95, 2.05v, 2.15v VCCIN and I recorded how long it took to crash after five tests. This is how I figured out I needed 2.15v VCCIN.
Click to expand...

while a entertaining read, again this means nothing, people can fool themselves into " realistic", and "unrealistic" but they really dont know what that means,

heat output- ok yes prime makes more heat, then most, people deal with- i render and encode, which means i do see prime and ibt/avx temps. and usage,-- however ironically i only do it for fun ( aka not my job, and i also got INTO it for stress testing my cpu ! this is off topic but fun imo )

as to addressing your statement ill leave this here and i will highlight the specific part i am talking about
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, _*many tiny irrecoverable errors*_, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Cross post from 980 ti Owners Club:
> 
> Just got my 980ti under water. Please excuse my Moto X's potato camera.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing, don't ask why I had to tape my fan to my radiator... I don't want to talk about it. This is my first (and likely last) custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop: Swiftech H240-X > 980 ti Classy (TIM: CLU, Fujipoly 17W/mK) > Swiftech Apogee XL (Delid w/CLU, TIM: CLU) > Alphacool Nex. XT45 140mm
> 
> The Swiftech H240-X and AlphaCool Nex. XT45 140mm (46mm depth) is barely enough for a OC'd 4790K and Classy. In games like pCARS, which uses both CPU and GPU pretty heavily my CPU temps go into the low 60C's and my GPU temps are in the high 60C's. That being said, other games don't fair as badly. GTAV for example is high 50C's. Ambient is about 23C. Those temps are also 6 hour loops (AI drivers around endlessly). Fans set to a curve, pump at max. I would say the fans were at ~70% most of the time. When I stress only the CPU (XTU) or GPU (Unigen benchs) I get temps in the low to mid 50C's.
> 
> Clocks (stable in game) are ~1540/8100 w/73.9% ASIC. That is coming from ~1500/8000 on air. Not a huge improvement, but my system is quiet at full load and that was my main goal.
> 
> My biggest gripe is not being able to have my fans change based on the GPU temps. Some games are very GPU heavy, but CPU light. This makes it very hard to set an appropriate fan curve when you can only bind fan speed to CPU temp. If anyone has any solution to this issue, I am all ears!
> 
> 
> 
> If your MB has a temp sensor input, you can control your fans based on _liquid temperature_ - which would be a combo of CPU and GPU and is really what should be monitored. You could also get a fan controller that allows for this.
> 
> I know some people have gotten SpeedFan (or similar) to work using GPU temp as the variable, but I would be no help there since I have never had need to attempt it.
Click to expand...

best way is usually considered to be air/water delta but few things can do this, i recommend an aquaero but they are pricy but not for everyone


----------



## NaXter24R

Hi everybody, any advice for some quieter fans for the h220? I'm using the stock Helix and they are great, but quite a bit too noisy when my pc is in idle. I have tried my spare NH-D14 and my pc was dead silent so i would like to have a similar noise leve with the h220 too. The pump is quiet now, it's brand new and doesn't has any issue at all so the main noise maker in my pc are those Helix. Right now i have both fans in PWM connected to a Y splitter to the CPU fan connector 2 so i can control them separately from the pump. Idle is 900/1000rpm and max 1900 but usually they won't pass 1300/1400rpm but i'm ok having more noise when the pc is doing somethin heavy. I have a 280x and while gaming it is the loudest thing in there, not that loud but still louder than my rad fans.
I've found 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM for 30 bucks (used) but i think they have less static pressure than mine. Also i'm considering the Vardar (F2 or F3) PWM but from some video they seems to have a background noise, like coil noise.

p.s. i have my rad on the top of my 450D and both fans are in pull (tried also in push but no difference in temps)


----------



## Madmaxneo

As I have posted before I have a SwiftTech H240-X cooling my CPU and it is mounted at the top of my case and I am about to add a MB waterblock set. I may also be adding my GPU to the loop and it was recommended that I add another radiator to the mix when adding the GPU.

I have recently read that it is best to have the water intake for the pump be above the pump for various reasons. I have also read that using a reservoir would be a good idea.

My questions are:

1. Should I get a reservoir?

2. Will the fact that my H240-X pump is at the top of my machine be a problem?

3. Coolants. I was told it was best I stick with just distilled water for now, but I am slightly worried about not adding the right stuff to keep it running for awhile.

I also really want to add some UV effects to my system but not a lot. I was thinking just UV tubing, but I need some good UV lighting.

4. Any suggestions on LED UV lights?

This is my first attempt at a custom loop so I want to get it right.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaXter24R*
> 
> Hi everybody, any advice for some quieter fans for the h220? I'm using the stock Helix and they are great, but quite a bit too noisy when my pc is in idle. I have tried my spare NH-D14 and my pc was dead silent so i would like to have a similar noise leve with the h220 too. The pump is quiet now, it's brand new and doesn't has any issue at all so the main noise maker in my pc are those Helix. Right now i have both fans in PWM connected to a Y splitter to the CPU fan connector 2 so i can control them separately from the pump. Idle is 900/1000rpm and max 1900 but usually they won't pass 1300/1400rpm but i'm ok having more noise when the pc is doing somethin heavy. I have a 280x and while gaming it is the loudest thing in there, not that loud but still louder than my rad fans.
> I've found 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM for 30 bucks (used) but i think they have less static pressure than mine. Also i'm considering the Vardar (F2 or F3) PWM but from some video they seems to have a background noise, like coil noise.
> 
> p.s. i have my rad on the top of my 450D and both fans are in pull (tried also in push but no difference in temps)


I have used the Phanteks F120MP with good success for this. They have a very low startup speed (500 rpm), so can operate very quietly at idle, but still have good flow and static at higher speeds.


----------



## NaXter24R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have used the Phanteks F120MP with good success for this. They have a very low startup speed (500 rpm), so can operate very quietly at idle, but still have good flow and static at higher speeds.


Thanks for the answer. How about temps? They seems to have quite less static pressure compared to Helix but i can't find anywhere some rpm to static pressure charts. The only drawback i can find right now is that they cost a lot. Here near 25€ each, so i'm still more into the Noctua (30€ for 2 fans).


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaXter24R*
> 
> so i'm still more into the Noctua (30€ for 2 fans).


Youcells prefer the silence over the performance?

Wecells did some eartest a while ago on this thread about 3 PWM fans (Gentle typhoon, Swiftech, Noctua) noises:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/7940#post_21299882

Wecells edited it's links today, so there are also the regular voltage controlled non-PWM Gentle typhoon GT 1450 as an option.


----------



## NaXter24R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> Youcells prefer the silence over the performance?
> 
> Wecells did some eartest a while ago on this thread about 3 PWM fans (Gentle typhoon, Swiftech, Noctua) noises:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/7940#post_21299882
> 
> Wecells edited it's links today, so there are also the regular voltage controlled non-PWM Gentle typhoon GT 1450 as an option.


I want performance of course and i'm ok with having a louder PC when squeezing my CPU, but i would like a silent machine in idle or basic operation. Also i want PWM and not voltage regulated fans so i can lower rpm a lot more.
Moreover, aren't Helix a rebadget Gentle Typhoon?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaXter24R*
> 
> I want performance of course and i'm ok with having a louder PC when squeezing my CPU, but i would like a silent machine in idle or basic operation. Also i want PWM and not voltage regulated fans so i can lower rpm a lot more.
> Moreover, aren't Helix a rebadget Gentle Typhoon?


No. Swiftech Helix fans has nothing to do with Nidec Gentle Typhoon fans.

So, if youcells really want the performance and the silence, then maybe you could get the GT 1850's from China?

They go from 700 RPM (0% PWM) to 1850 (RPM 100%) PWM.

At 0% PWM 700 RPM they are (almost) non audible.

Youcells could also send a message to Coolerguys, as last time wecells chatted with themcells, they considered of ordering a pack of GT 1850PWM fans from Nidec... more human organisms requesting them, makes the order more possible for Coolerguys.


----------



## SkyFred

Hey guys, I recently noticed that my H220-X pump is making an annoying rattling noise at low rpm, when the CPU is at idle. Is there any way to fix this ? Maybe setting up the PWM low limit somehow ?


----------



## NaXter24R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently noticed that my H220-X pump is making an annoying rattling noise at low rpm, when the CPU is at idle. Is there any way to fix this ? Maybe setting up the PWM low limit somehow ?


I don't want to scare you, but my h220 pump (it's different but i think that's the same problem) made the same noise. Something like "trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr", it doesn't make that much noise but it's there and when the pump starts revving higher it stops, am i right?
If so, i had to RMA it. From what i've read online it's something related to the impeller/bearings.
Before that tho, try to see if it's just some air bubbles trapped inside the loop. To be more comfortable, dismount the cooler and shake it a bit while it's running. It would be better if you could change pump rpm during that to help any air into the pump to go outside. Then, check if it needs some more water inside (distilled water is just fine) and add it.
To do that you'll need a PSU to connect the pump and something to change pump's rpm. I've done it using an old pc to connect the pump and change RPMs from there. If you don't have a spare PC you can use yours using temporarly the stock CPU cooler and connecting just the pump the the secondary fan header.

If nothing works, try to contact Swiftech and they'll probably help you. Both Ren and Bryan were great with me. I highly suggest you to do the "free the air" thing before, just because they will probably tell you to do the same thing.

Here is an example (not mine)


----------



## SkyFred

Thanks @NaXter24R ! +rep

I was so scared about having to RMA (a bit more difficult in Europe) that I made the air bubble check/shake (lol) and found out a few were stuck and running through the pump









I did it the ghetto way cause I don't have any spare parts right now (should get back my stock cooler just in case...) but it worked fine and I managed to move the air bubbles to the radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Thanks @NaXter24R ! +rep
> 
> I was so scared about having to RMA (a bit more difficult in Europe) that I made the air bubble check/shake (lol) and found out a few were stuck and running through the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did it the ghetto way cause I don't have any spare parts right now (should get back my stock cooler just in case...) but it worked fine and I managed to move the air bubbles to the radiator.


To prevent it from recurring, you should top off the loop with distilled water and give it a quick bleed. Position the case so the fill port faces up, fill to the top, run the system for several minutes and repeat a few times. The more liquid you have in the loop, the less air - this all but negates chances of this happening. Keep an eye on your res window as you will need to repeat as liquid evaporates naturally.


----------



## SkyFred

Thanks for your advice, I'm gonna get some distilled water with a little filling bottle !

Making my first steps into watercooling


----------



## NaXter24R

I'm in Europe too, i know that RMA is pretty hard here for Swiftech. In theory, they don't support directly customers here like they do in USA, but your reseller should. So, if you have any issue, just ask him to RMA it, and if he don't want to, then ask Swiftech that would probably contact them for a replacement.
My case was a bit different, my reseller has closed his store some month ago, so i had no assistance, but Swiftech (huge huge thanks to them) sent me a brand new pump with no extra cost. Really great company


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey guys whats up? Been a long time since i been here, just want to report my H220X is still going strong without any issues. I have also had it since launch last year witht the first batch i believe, seeing as i have the first set of tubes. Since it has been over a year now, should i replace TIM? also, i can see my radiator is dusty but cant seem to remove the fans, How do i go about cleaning this?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey guys whats up? Been a long time since i been here, just want to report my H220X is still going strong without any issues. I have also had it since launch last year witht the first batch i believe, seeing as i have the first set of tubes. Since it has been over a year now, should i replace TIM? also, i can see my radiator is dusty but cant seem to remove the fans, How do i go about cleaning this?


the fans come secured with short screws you have to have a small shaft screwdriver to fit through the fan hole...I always keep a dollar store set of precision screwdrivers for stuff like this and a good set for more important tasks.. Cleaning us best done with compressed air either in a can (expensive) or using an air compressor with an air chuck though be sure the compressor doesn't have moisture collected inside by draining any out with the drain plug then refilling...as for the tim if you aren't experiencing any higher temperatures aside from a few degrees from being cleaning I wouldn't worry about that tim is good until it starts to dry


----------



## michael-ocn

Wooohoooo, finally got my new pc into a case


----------



## d0mmie

Anyone got a clue as to where I can purchase the Swiftech MCR140-X Drive in Europe? I know of Highflow.nl, but they're just really too expensive for my taste.


----------



## SkyFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Anyone got a clue as to where I can purchase the Swiftech MCR140-X Drive in Europe? I know of Highflow.nl, but they're just really too expensive for my taste.


Here is the only french shop I found selling it, same price as highflow but maybe less shipping cost depending on where you are :


http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Radiateur-Pompe-MCR140-X-Drive_12734.html


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Here is the only french shop I found selling it, same price as highflow but maybe less shipping cost depending on where you are :
> 
> 
> http://www.docmicro.com/watercooling_kits_SwifTech-Radiateur-Pompe-MCR140-X-Drive_12734.html


Yeah I checked a ton of european webshops, only found Highflow. Decided to order it and just accept the cost.


----------



## casper5632

What would you guys say the best fans are for the H240x? I currently have Aerocool DS on the radiator, but I recently discovered that was a poor choice because they keep failing when I have them mounted horizontally. I would like to keep red LEDs if possible, but my main concern is good performance while being dead quiet at lower RPM.


----------



## rfarmer

New Swiftech white tubing and compression fittings, think it looks better.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> What would you guys say the best fans are for the H240x? I currently have Aerocool DS on the radiator, but I recently discovered that was a poor choice because they keep failing when I have them mounted horizontally. I would like to keep red LEDs if possible, but my main concern is good performance while being dead quiet at lower RPM.


I actually asked this same question to SwiftTech support as I was looking for some LED fans. Their obvious answer was the stock fans that come with the unit. But they explained that they can't recommend any other fan with confidence because they have not tested every type of fan out there. They also said that each part of the H240-X is picked/designed to help make the unit the most efficient.....


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> What would you guys say the best fans are for the H240x? I currently have Aerocool DS on the radiator, but I recently discovered that was a poor choice because they keep failing when I have them mounted horizontally. I would like to keep red LEDs if possible, but my main concern is good performance while being dead quiet at lower RPM.


I'm currently in a similar situation, most if not all of the decent radiator fans for horizontal mount that fit my color scheme (black/red) are pretty bad. 140mm has even less options than 120mm too. I'll probably be going with some Noctua NF-A14 PWM's and trying to hide them. I'm sick of fans dying. There's also the EK-Vardar fans which I hear are decent though but not as quiet at low RPM. The stock Helix fans are good for airflow/pressure but not very quiet. Would love to find something with good bearings and PWM in black or black/red.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently noticed that my H220-X pump is making an annoying rattling noise at low rpm, when the CPU is at idle. Is there any way to fix this ? Maybe setting up the PWM low limit somehow ?


I think this might be normal if you have a silent build, I've had two of these MCP30 pumps and had to test the entire range of PWM speed to see which RPMs it didn't vibrate/rattle at and set the fan speed profiles accordingly. It's especially noticeable in these units since you can't decouple the pump from the rad (without extensive modification) to isolate pump vibrations. Any air trapped of course will increase the noise but that should go away over time, but all pumps vibrate and/or rattle to some degree. I can't really say what speeds are quiet or loud as each pump is probably slightly different, but I have noticed it changes with loop restriction (adding or removing waterblocks or rads). Usually there's about 3-4 sweet spots in the PWM range.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey guys whats up? Been a long time since i been here, just want to report my H220X is still going strong without any issues. I have also had it since launch last year witht the first batch i believe, seeing as i have the first set of tubes. Since it has been over a year now, should i replace TIM? also, i can see my radiator is dusty but cant seem to remove the fans, How do i go about cleaning this?


Up to you on both accounts.

You can use a blower/compressed air to clean the rad or some water. Either work fine but all methods have their risks you need to look into. As for me I do both. During deep clean I wash them otherwise I use a shop vac to clean them.

I would like to add that my near release h220 (non x) is still going strong maint free!


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> What would you guys say the best fans are for the H240x? I currently have Aerocool DS on the radiator, but I recently discovered that was a poor choice because they keep failing when I have them mounted horizontally. I would like to keep red LEDs if possible, but my main concern is good performance while being dead quiet at lower RPM.


I use Noctua NF-A14 PWM and Industrial iPPC-2000 PWM version. Both fans are excellent. But you will need to run them using the Swiftech PWM hub to get that low RPM, some motherboards don't support that low duty cycle on fans.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I use Noctua NF-A14 PWM and Industrial iPPC-2000 PWM version. Both fans are excellent. But you will need to run them using the Swiftech PWM hub to get that low RPM, some motherboards don't support that low duty cycle on fans.


Have you directly compared the IPPC-2000's to the NF-A14 PWM's at low rpm (600-1000)? I've read the IPPC's have a louder motor sound, which is a real shame since they look a lot nicer.


----------



## Tim Drake

Where can I get a cheap 140XL in the UK?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Have you directly compared the IPPC-2000's to the NF-A14 PWM's at low rpm (600-1000)? I've read the IPPC's have a louder motor sound, which is a real shame since they look a lot nicer.


Not that I've heard. In comparison the brown/beige version is 300-1500 RPM and the black industrial version is 500-2000 RPM (450-2000 for the 120mm fan). However the Swiftech PWM hub allows them to go as low as 250 and 400. Both are quite inaudible at this low RPM. When gaming I run my fans at a max of 1000 RPM which has an acceptable noise level, considering you won't hear much of it anyway due to game sound/music.

Edit: The only downside of running these fans at such a low RPM, is that the buzz/hum coming from your Swiftech pump, will be audible and can be quite annoying. So it's just finding the right balance between RPM and noise at this point.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Have you directly compared the IPPC-2000's to the NF-A14 PWM's at low rpm (600-1000)? I've read the IPPC's have a louder motor sound, which is a real shame since they look a lot nicer.


I have used both on the same radiator, and the PPC are noticeably louder at lower rpm. I actually replaced the PPC with Redux due to this.


----------



## casper5632

I believe I got one of those splitters with the H240x I have but I was never able to get it to work, let alone give me lower RPMs than my motherboard. My main goal is to be as quiet or quieter than the Aerocool DS I have in my case at the moment, and if I get more performance out of the switch I will be happy to pump up my overclocks. If I end up getting the noctua I expect more performance from a quieter system just because of how critically acclaimed they are, and the price point.

This might also be a dumb question but what about lowering the RPM on the pump through the same method? Would that even be possible?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> New Swiftech white tubing and compression fittings, think it looks better.


Nice build, hows the temps? Thought about doing the same kind of loop in my Silencio 352 mATX case, a little worried about temps though.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> If I end up getting the noctua I expect more performance from a quieter system just because of how critically acclaimed they are, and the price point.


Then you are setting yourself up for disappointment for a couple of reasons. First, the Helix were designed with characteristics specifically advantageous to radiator use, while the Noctuas were not (though they do a more than adequate job). Second, the majority of the noise is generated by the air flowing through the radiator, not by the fan itself.

What you can expect when switching the Helix to the Noctua is a possible drop of a few dB in noise, with essentially no performance difference.


----------



## casper5632

Oh no I am using the Aerocool on the radiator as well. I was under the impression that stock fans were usually crap so I just got something that was quiet with a pretty LED in it. I might still have the stock fans, but if a noctua will improve performance and reduce volume compared to aerocool thats what I meant.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Nice build, hows the temps? Thought about doing the same kind of loop in my Silencio 352 mATX case, a little worried about temps though.....


Very good, I have a 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and highest temps I have seen while stress testing is 62C, usually mid to high 40's while gaming, my GTX 970 hits a max of 50C which is 30C lower than the air cooler. Both idle about 28C.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Very good, I have a 4690k OCed to 4.5 GHz and highest temps I have seen while stress testing is 62C, usually mid to high 40's while gaming, my GTX 970 hits a max of 50C which is 30C lower than the air cooler. Both idle about 28C.


What I am afraid about is my TDP of both my CPU and GPU. It would be a bit too much for 220 + 120 rads to handle, especially when overclocked.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> What I am afraid about is my TDP of both my CPU and GPU. It would be a bit too much for 220 + 120 rads to handle, especially when overclocked.


Yeah it is a shame the Silencio doesn't have 2X120mm fan mounts in the top, that way you could go with an additional 240mm rad.

oh and btw that is a nice clean Silencio you have there.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah it is a shame the Silencio doesn't have 2X120mm fan mounts in the top, that way you could go with an additional 240mm rad.
> 
> oh and btw that is a nice clean Silencio you have there.


I could do a fair amount of modding to accommodate one though....







...or just go forward with my "WaterBox" external rad box that houses 2 220s in the CM Elite 120 mITX case.....


----------



## deme

After 3-4 months of rattling, the pump of my H220-X died yesterday


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> After 3-4 months of rattling, the pump of my H220-X died yesterday


I am sorry to hear about this. Please PM me so I can help you solve this issue.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> What I am afraid about is my TDP of both my CPU and GPU. It would be a bit too much for 220 + 120 rads to handle, especially when overclocked.


My 4790K and 980 ti Classy OC'd almost overwhelm my H240-X and 140mm rad. Cyrsis 3 and pCARS both send temps into the 60c range and that is with an aggressive fan curve. With a 5820K...


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My 4790K and 980 ti Classy OC'd almost overwhelm my H240-X and 140mm rad. Cyrsis 3 and pCARS both send temps into the 60c range and that is with an aggressive fan curve. With a 5820K...


Yeah I am thinking of doing 2 thicker 220s in a radbox now...


----------



## Cavi

I'm looking at AIO solutions for a new build in a Node 804, and I don't want a Corsair model. I've had too many leaky pumps from Corsair. I was looking at the H220 but it seems to be discontinued? What are the alternatives now, did a model replace it? I was looking at Swiftech and Fractal Design's AIO, but the Swiftech seems to perform better all around.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi*
> 
> I'm looking at AIO solutions for a new build in a Node 804, and I don't want a Corsair model. I've had too many leaky pumps from Corsair. I was looking at the H220 but it seems to be discontinued? What are the alternatives now, did a model replace it? I was looking at Swiftech and Fractal Design's AIO, but the Swiftech seems to perform better all around.


The H220-X is the current model.


----------



## Avonosac

My h220 with an additional qp220 is just enough with an OC'd titan and my OC'd 3930k.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> My h220 with an additional qp220 is just enough with an OC'd titan and my OC'd 3930k.


I really should put a 220 in the front and 2 in the radbox. Either that or 2 240s in the radbox.


----------



## lukacsmw

I've had an H240X for a couple months now and have been happy with it. However, about a month ago, the window started to fog over. I haven't noticed a performance decrease, but its not very aesthetically pleasing. Anyone know how to remove it without having to drain the system? The Fog is on the inside of the glass.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukacsmw*
> 
> I've had an H240X for a couple months now and have been happy with it. However, about a month ago, the window started to fog over. I haven't noticed a performance decrease, but its not very aesthetically pleasing. Anyone know how to remove it without having to drain the system? The Fog is on the inside of the glass.


Please PM me so I can help you to solve this issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukacsmw*
> 
> I've had an H240X for a couple months now and have been happy with it. However, about a month ago, the window started to fog over. I haven't noticed a performance decrease, but its not very aesthetically pleasing. Anyone know how to remove it without having to drain the system? The Fog is on the inside of the glass.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What exactly causes that?

Could it be his fluid is running low?


----------



## Wam7

Is there any software that I can use to control the fan/pump speed? As I understand it, it is either fan or pump speed that I can control not both?

Is an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro able to control the PWM pump and fans?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Is there any software that I can use to control the fan/pump speed? As I understand it, it is either fan or pump speed that I can control not both?
> 
> Is an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro able to control the PWM pump and fans?


if you have two seperate pwm headers you can do this without anything extra simply control the pump from the cpu fan header and the fans from the other...(via bios out a program like speedfan) someone here posted on ocn posted a how to fit setting up speedfan...if you don't have two true pwm headers...the aquero has separate channels so yes should work fine...really any true pwm controller should work here


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you have two seperate pwm headers you can do this without anything extra simply control the pump from the cpu fan header and the fans from the other...(via bios out a program like speedfan) someone here posted on ocn posted a how to fit setting up speedfan...if you don't have two true pwm headers...the aquero has separate channels so yes should work fine...really any true pwm controller should work here


Ok, thanks for that. Swiftech seem to strongly advise against plugging the pump into your motherboard even if it is PWM (as mine is). I have used Speedfan for more years than I can to remember but I've never got it to control any fans plugged in, any chance you can point me to the post on how to set this up?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Ok, thanks for that. Swiftech seem to strongly advise against plugging the pump into your motherboard even if it is PWM (as mine is). I have used Speedfan for more years than I can to remember but I've never got it to control any fans plugged in, any chance you can point me to the post on how to set this up?


I couldn't seem to find the post I mentioned it's buried somewhere here but this link should help you and might be a good read on speedfan

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.silentpcreview.com/SpeedFan&sa=U&ved=0CCYQFjADahUKEwj40PvAqNbIAhWB1YAKHetFDqM&usg=AFQjCNEOcaDN_qvn4sLD1F_F1jhZjK_vQg


----------



## casper5632

After finally being able to test out my CPU with a H240x I finally got some real thermal results that seem a bit odd. I have the pump and fans running at the lowest, but yesterday I was playing Warhammer: End Times: Vermintide, and I noticed my CPU was hitting 70c at some points. Most games dont usually push it this hard, but it was only running around 60% usage. Should I try reseating the cooler, an RMA, or is this pretty standard temp?

CPU: 4790k Stock OC ( >1 Year old)
Mobo: Maximus Hero Vi
Cooler: H240x (>6 Months Old)


----------



## SkyFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> After finally being able to test out my CPU with a H240x I finally got some real thermal results that seem a bit odd. I have the pump and fans running at the lowest, but yesterday I was playing Warhammer: End Times: Vermintide, and I noticed my CPU was hitting 70c at some points. Most games dont usually push it this hard, but it was only running around 60% usage. Should I try reseating the cooler, an RMA, or is this pretty standard temp?
> 
> CPU: 4790k Stock OC ( >1 Year old)
> Mobo: Maximus Hero Vi
> Cooler: H240x (>6 Months Old)


These aren't normal temps, especially with your CPU on stock volts and H240X.
Are your pump and fans connected to PWM control ? If you run them with voltage control at the lowest speed you'll get hot temps for sure...


----------



## casper5632

I have them plugged into a 4 pin fan header, but it seems to be operating at the normal RPM. The lowest it will go down to is around 1200 RPM with my current configuration. The temps I have now are about the same as the temps I had using a Corsair H80. I upgraded to the H240 so I could run the system quieter, and potentially overclock in the future.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Ok, thanks for that. Swiftech seem to strongly advise against plugging the pump into your motherboard even if it is PWM (as mine is). I have used Speedfan for more years than I can to remember but I've never got it to control any fans plugged in, any chance you can point me to the post on how to set this up?


As long as the header is PWM mode, you should be fine. Otherwise, voltage control will overload and kill the control modal of any PWM unit.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> I have them plugged into a 4 pin fan header, but it seems to be operating at the normal RPM. The lowest it will go down to is around 1200 RPM with my current configuration. The temps I have now are about the same as the temps I had using a Corsair H80. I upgraded to the H240 so I could run the system quieter, and potentially overclock in the future.


Have you check the thermal past pain on the CPU and block to make sure you have a good contact. Make sure you pull off the protector on the block base.


----------



## casper5632

The PWM on the pump has a range of (0% = 1200RPM) - (1000% = 3000RPM) but my curve will only bring it to like 2000 MAX when the CPU is getting hot. I feel like I should be getting better cooling, but cant find where the problem is.

I haven't really checked to make sure it was good contact. I don't really know how to do that without removing the block, and that would kind of defeat the purpose since I would need to remount it anyways right? I could just remount it and hope that the temps go down though. Thermal paste I use is M7 something, definitely started with an M and I did research to make sure it was high quality, but it was a while ago and if there was thermal paste on the block I MIGHT have just installed it with the stock stuff. I assume if I didn't have the plastic piece off the block the temps would be a lot higher than they are now, but I am sure I removed it.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> The PWM on the pump has a range of (0% = 1200RPM) - (1000% = 3000RPM) but my curve will only bring it to like 2000 MAX when the CPU is getting hot. I feel like I should be getting better cooling, but cant find where the problem is.


How do you connect thepump?


----------



## casper5632

The power cable on the pump goes right to the PSU, and I have the 4 pin PWM cable going to the CPU header. Figured it was the only thing I cant see physically fail, so if it fails I want my system to give me a BIOS error message.

Its on the top of my case with nothing obstructing it, and it currently has the stock fans installed to exhaust. I also have x2 140mm fans intaking air from the front of the case. Case is clean as can be since I have it set to a positive pressure system with dust filters.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> The power cable on the pump goes right to the PSU, and I have the 4 pin PWM cable going to the CPU header. Figured it was the only thing I cant see physically fail, so if it fails I want my system to give me a BIOS error message.


that message will only happen on boot from the motherboard...unless you have a monitoring program that will alert you...the paste you use isn't really as important as the amount you use and the method you use for applying pressure and mounting ideally you want just enough to cover the ihs when you are fully tightened down without going over the edges...the best way is to have help to line it up exactly before you press down to make contact with the screws then tighten 1/4 to a half turn in an x pattern...if you don't do it this way you risk smashing the tim to one side our the other and/or introducing air bubbles...both of which can affect temperatures drastically...also one the initial pressure is put down to mount you don't want to let off the pressure until it's tightened down...this is probably one of the biggest issues I've seen with people mounting...some will even pull it off to look at the spread then put it back that's just wrong...I do this with a new chip the first time to make sure the spread and amount used is good for the mount BUT NEVER re use tim...always clean with highest percentage isopropyl alcohol you can find and lint free static free cloth...q tips with well for this...there are also tim cleaners sold but they are overpriced and ime alcohol does just as well you can also use alcohol Prep pads just be sure not use alcohol on the surface of the wiping item and don't pour on the ihs...it sold be common sense here but just covering the bases


----------



## casper5632

I'll probably remount the block when I get home today in that case. Hopefully that will reduce my temps quite a bit so I could potentially OC in the future. Any other things that could be causing this that you could think of?


----------



## diggiddi

Guys I'm sure its ben asked b4 but I cant read 1738 pages of posts to find out which fans are recommended for this rad
looking at Jet Flos and these Koolance fans 12025HBK

http://koolance.com/fan-120x25mm-108cfm


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that message will only happen on boot from the motherboard...unless you have a monitoring program that will alert you...the paste you use isn't really as important as the amount you use and the method you use for applying pressure and mounting ideally you want just enough to cover the ihs when you are fully tightened down without going over the edges...the best way is to have help to line it up exactly before you press down to make contact with the screws then tighten 1/4 to a half turn in an x pattern...if you don't do it this way you risk smashing the tim to one side our the other and/or introducing air bubbles...both of which can affect temperatures drastically...also one the initial pressure is put down to mount you don't want to let off the pressure until it's tightened down...this is probably one of the biggest issues I've seen with people mounting...some will even pull it off to look at the spread then put it back that's just wrong...I do this with a new chip the first time to make sure the spread and amount used is good for the mount BUT NEVER re use tim...always clean with highest percentage isopropyl alcohol you can find and lint free static free cloth...q tips with well for this...there are also tim cleaners sold but they are overpriced and ime alcohol does just as well you can also use alcohol Prep pads just be sure not use alcohol on the surface of the wiping item and don't pour on the ihs...it sold be common sense here but just covering the bases


coffee filters work well for cleaning old tim


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> As long as the header is PWM mode, you should be fine. Otherwise, voltage control will overload and kill the control modal of any PWM unit.


OK thanks for that. Should I overlook this in the first post?
Quote:


> NOTICE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you use the included PWM splitter to power your pump, by plugging the pump into channel one and hooking up both the molex/SATA plug and the PWM fan header, EVEN IF the only device you plan to modulate via PWM is the pump itself. More than just an accessory, the splitter is a fail-safe, guaranteeing that the pump always receives the necessary 12v, regardless of fan header settings, as anything less can and will, in an unknown amount of time, damage the pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Is there any software that I can use to control the fan/pump speed? As I understand it, it is either fan or pump speed that I can control not both?
> 
> Is an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro able to control the PWM pump and fans?


you can- it depends on the mobo, most mobos are ONLY pwm ( true pwm ) on the cpu/cpuopt headers and they are usually tied together the additional "pwm" headers are usually psudo pwm even the motherboard manuals do lie more often then not! th e only way you can tell is to plug in something like the pump and attempt to change the speed

the aquaero 6 most definitely can ( and i hope you get it, it is amazing ! )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you have two seperate pwm headers you can do this without anything extra simply control the pump from the cpu fan header and the fans from the other...(via bios out a program like speedfan) someone here posted on ocn posted a how to fit setting up speedfan...if you don't have two true pwm headers...the aquero has separate channels so yes should work fine...really any true pwm controller should work here
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, thanks for that. Swiftech seem to strongly advise against plugging the pump into your motherboard even if it is PWM (as mine is). I have used Speedfan for more years than I can to remember but I've never got it to control any fans plugged in, any chance you can point me to the post on how to set this up?
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> As long as the header is PWM mode, you should be fine. Otherwise, voltage control will overload and kill the control modal of any PWM unit.
> 
> 
> 
> OK thanks for that. Should I overlook this in the first post?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> NOTICE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you use the included PWM splitter to power your pump, by plugging the pump into channel one and hooking up both the molex/SATA plug and the PWM fan header, EVEN IF the only device you plan to modulate via PWM is the pump itself. More than just an accessory, the splitter is a fail-safe, guaranteeing that the pump always receives the necessary 12v, regardless of fan header settings, as anything less can and will, in an unknown amount of time, damage the pump.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...




that was for the original h220 before the pump design was changed it used to be that the power was through the 4 pin fan header, they since changed it to a sata ( EW imo, i much prefer fat 4 pin mate n lok ) 8so now it doesnt matter !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> The PWM on the pump has a range of (0% = 1200RPM) - (1000% = 3000RPM) but my curve will only bring it to like 2000 MAX when the CPU is getting hot. I feel like I should be getting better cooling, but cant find where the problem is.
> 
> I haven't really checked to make sure it was good contact. I don't really know how to do that without removing the block, and that would kind of defeat the purpose since I would need to remount it anyways right? I could just remount it and hope that the temps go down though. Thermal paste I use is M7 something, definitely started with an M and I did research to make sure it was high quality, but it was a while ago and if there was thermal paste on the block I MIGHT have just installed it with the stock stuff. I assume if I didn't have the plastic piece off the block the temps would be a lot higher than they are now, but I am sure I removed it.


pwm range can also be affected by having the pwm signal split,


----------



## casper5632

After getting home and remounting the block it looks like the old thermal paste was pretty well on there. I cleaned it and put new paste in and then played the game again and the temp MAX is still at 73c. I even played a mission with the pump at 2000 RPM and the fans at 1200 RPM and that only dropped the CPU temp by 5 degrees.


----------



## v1ral

Weird question...
Does mounting the Apogee XL matter if it's horizontal or vertical, I don't remember if it did or not. Say in correlation to how the cores are in the cpu, like some blocks on the market.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> After getting home and remounting the block it looks like the old thermal paste was pretty well on there. I cleaned it and put new paste in and then played the game again and the temp MAX is still at 73c. I even played a mission with the pump at 2000 RPM and the fans at 1200 RPM and that only dropped the CPU temp by 5 degrees.


A few things that may or may not work, but could help....

I may have missed this earlier but what CPU do you have and how long have you been using it?

Is your bios at stock (no OC or any other changes)? If not try resetting to defaults and check your temps then. Except put it in XMP if your RAM supports it.

Make sure none of your tubing is bent in your loop, as the tubing needs to be smooth with no kinks in it what soever.

Double check to ensure you have a full tank with no air bubbles.

In fact double check everything, from your pump connections to your PC connections, you just might run across something.

I am not sure how much RAM you have but if you have more than two strips try reducing it to just two strips (in the recommended spots) and see how that goes.


----------



## casper5632

4790k and it's all stock on there except the ram overclocked to 1866 from 1600. No idea what XMP is but I'll look into it. The tubing I'm the h240x would take a lot of force to bend, but I'll check tomorrow. I'm sure I could hear bubbles and that's all I could do to check for them. I did a full checkup when I reseated my water block as well.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> 4790k and it's all stock on there except the ram overclocked to 1866 from 1600. No idea what XMP is but I'll look into it. The tubing I'm the h240x would take a lot of force to bend, but I'll check tomorrow. I'm sure I could hear bubbles and that's all I could do to check for them. I did a full checkup when I reseated my water block as well.


What I meant by check for bubbles is look in the window of the reservoir on your H240-X. Apparently even a tiny amount of the small bubbles could affect performance.

XMP is a setting in the BIOS that automatically sets your RAM to it's rated specs. It is easy and very safe to use. If your RAM is rated at 1866mhz then XMP will set it automatically. Unless on that rare occasion your RAM is not XMP compatible. Before you turn on XMP default the bios first.


----------



## casper5632

Oh okay well the widow is clean I can't see even a single bubble, and I don't hear any gurgling while the pump is on at all. I can try clocking the ram down a little but I can't imagine that such a minor oc on g.skill ram would cause such dramatic changes in cpu temp. Can't test that out until tomorrow though


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> Oh okay well the widow is clean I can't see even a single bubble, and I don't hear any gurgling while the pump is on at all. I can try clocking the ram down a little but I can't imagine that such a minor oc on g.skill ram would cause such dramatic changes in cpu temp. Can't test that out until tomorrow though


it's possible you have a poorly timd ihs..Intel used an adhesive type tim from the die to the inside of the ihs..this could be part...once you have excluded everything else that's something to consider...did you have this with another cooler or was this a new build I forget


----------



## casper5632

CPU is older than the H240x by half a yearish, but I no longer have the old cooler. There was only a minor improvement in temps when I switched to this from the Corsair H80, but I was able to run the H240x at much lower RPM to keep the CPU cool. I could try and swap thermal paste, since the tube im using is a few years old at this point. I am using the line method for these installations by the way.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> CPU is older than the H240x by half a yearish, but I no longer have the old cooler. There was only a minor improvement in temps when I switched to this from the Corsair H80, *but I was able to run the H240x at much lower RPM to keep the CPU cool.* I could try and swap thermal paste, since the tube im using is a few years old at this point. I am using the line method for these installations by the way.


This is what should be expected. Your fan curves have not been configured for your specific build, you are using only a general default. The expectation that you will see a large drop in temps with the unit running at much lower rpm is unrealistic. Also, you don't seem to be using any standardized stress test to give you results....so it is impossible to really tell much of anything.

In short - set up your fan curves and the H240-X will make that H80 look like the toy it is.


----------



## casper5632

Oh no, I did perform the testing with everything at nearly 50% compared to what I normally keep it at the minimum. Going from the lowest setting to 50% I went from 73C to around 67c. If I pumped it up to 100% I expect it would be in the low 60c area, but that would be an incredible amount of noise just so I could overclock. I went crazy and got the biggest cooler I could possibly fit in my case so I could do moderate overclocking with low noise. At the moment I need to have the fans all the way up to 50% just to play End Times at CPU stock clock.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casper5632*
> 
> Oh no, I did perform the testing with everything at nearly 50% compared to what I normally keep it at the minimum. Going from the lowest setting to 50% I went from 73C to around 67c. If I pumped it up to 100% I expect it would be in the low 60c area, but that would be an incredible amount of noise just so I could overclock. I went crazy and got the biggest cooler I could possibly fit in my case so I could do moderate overclocking with low noise. At the moment I need to have the fans all the way up to 50% just to play End Times at CPU stock clock.


50 percent...this thing comes alive at around 75 percent...if you are worried about noise over performance you will need more rad space...this cooler should be quieter at full speed than the corsair was at 50 percent...I don't think your tents are horrible considering your fans aren't turning but around 750rpms at 50 percent...and pump is only around 1500 rpms at 50%...if you are expecting the world keeping it running it lower than 50 percent that isn't going to happen...given you aren't stretching this coolers legs at all I'm unsure how much you expected since these coolers run best from 60% and up...tbh any improvement over the h80 at this point should be considered a win since these coolers aren't designed to outperform at very low rpms....it honestly sounds like a combination of poor internal tim mixed with an unrealistic expectation of the cooler...for some reason I was under the impression you had this thing running full out and it wasn't performing...it all makes more sense note


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Weird question...
> Does mounting the Apogee XL matter if it's horizontal or vertical, I don't remember if it did or not. Say in correlation to how the cores are in the cpu, like some blocks on the market.


looking at the grid in the block itself I'm not sure this will matter much perhaps @Dango will chime in here


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> looking at the grid in the block itself I'm not sure this will matter much perhaps @Dango will chime in here


That is a really good question! I justtalk with our engineer about this, he told me that its all about contact between the IHS and the base-plate, orientation of the block does not make any different. The coolant in the block will always take away the heat regardless of its orientation, the only thing that change is the contact that every time you re-install the block. The better contact between block and IHS the better performance. And that contact area are different from bock to block and cpu to cpu.


----------



## Kutalion

In practice orientation does matter as numerous cpu block tests shown. Difference is 1-2 degrees tho. You have some good ones on ocn as well. If i recall well apogee xl does perform a bit better in goofy orientation.


----------



## VSG

It has a crosspin matrix in the cold plate, so orientation doesn't do as much as blocks with parallel microchannels in them.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It has a crosspin matrix in the cold plate, so orientation doesn't do as much as blocks with parallel microchannels in them.


Thanks for the response everyone..
This is what I thought, I remember some blocks required a certain orientation to be effective.


----------



## reset1101

Hi all,

The pump in my h100i is starting to make too much noise and Amazon offers me refund, so Im looking for a new cooler. And a H220x or h240x could be an option. Im a silence freak and I have some doubts:

- How noisy are pum and fans? Im specially worried about pump. Is it noisy? Do you have to adjust the speed to make it silent?
- Ive read that its not uncommon that the pump dies after some use. Is it a common problem or rather unusual?

Thanks a lot for your help


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> The pump in my h100i is starting to make too much noise and Amazon offers me refund, so Im looking for a new cooler. And a H220x or h240x could be an option. Im a silence freak and I have some doubts:
> 
> - How noisy are pum and fans? Im specially worried about pump. Is it noisy? Do you have to adjust the speed to make it silent?
> - Ive read that its not uncommon that the pump dies after some use. Is it a common problem or rather unusual?
> 
> Thanks a lot for your help


If silence is your concern, there is no comparison between these two. The Swiftech pump is noticeably quieter than any of the pumps ever used by Corsair. However, the huge difference is going to be in fan noise for like performance....or in greatly increased performance at like noise levels - depending on which way you care to look at it.

Since the Swiftech uses far better components all around, it doesn't require insane amounts of airflow like a Corsair. The Swiftech features a pump that that moves over 4x the liquid of a Corsair and a much better CPU block, and a far more efficient radiator design made from materials that dissipate far more heat than the aluminum your are used to. This allows the Swiftech to outperform the Corsair while still staying ~15-20 dB quieter.

As far as the pump, there were issues with the H220. That is *not* the pump that is in the H220-X or H240-X. The pump included in these has an outstanding track record and an incredibly low failure rate.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It has a crosspin matrix in the cold plate, so orientation doesn't do as much as blocks with parallel microchannels in them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Thanks for the response everyone..
> This is what I thought, I remember some blocks required a certain orientation to be effective.


Not exactly crosspin, I think. it's got rows of small fins in parallel. pin matrix reminds me of those old staggered grid pin waterblocks.

Apogee XL coldplate:


I never gave it much thought, my guestimate was heat rises so intake on inlet on bottom and outlet on top. Curious though about someone who said horizontal was performing better 

speaking of the XL, during cleaning I couldn't help but notice how small the entrance and exit ports are, they're about 1/4" ID with very shallow space below the screw threads. That's gotta restrict something if using different fittings (stock 45° and 90° fittings on these units have a similar size ID in the rotary). Though probably negligible once everything is added up. Not nearly as bad as those old water jet blocks (apogee GT i think?). Anyways It was bugging me so dremeled down and smoothed the flow entrance/exit paths. warranty successfully voided


----------



## bazookatooths

Has anyone done a guide on switching out the tubing and adding a GPU waterblock on the H220-X.

So far my parts list is the H220X

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
X1

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22421/ex-tub-2517/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBEDML.html?tl=g30c703s2263
X6

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24287/ex-liq-387/Mayhems_Aurora_2_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Tharsis_Red_.html?tl=g30c337s1809
X1

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25284/ex-tub-3406/Bitspower_Crystal_Link_Tube_12mm_OD_-_1000mm_3937_BP-NCCLT12AC-L1000.html?tl=g30c633s2057
X1

I have to do more research to find which waterblock will fit my XFX R9 390 I believe EK has some that will fit.

The question I had is how does this parts list look is everything compatible? Also another issue is with me having the AIO in the front the drain is pointing down. Should I shoot off a tube with a some kind of valve on it to FIll and Drain, or should I add another resivour? This will be my first watercooling experience, but I have been a craftsman for 10 years professionally and am sure I can handle the technical side of building it. Build in SIG.

Any help is appreciated, thank you.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> coffee filters work well for cleaning old tim


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If silence is your concern, there is no comparison between these two. The Swiftech pump is noticeably quieter than any of the pumps ever used by Corsair. However, the huge difference is going to be in fan noise for like performance....or in greatly increased performance at like noise levels - depending on which way you care to look at it.
> 
> Since the Swiftech uses far better components all around, it doesn't require insane amounts of airflow like a Corsair. The Swiftech features a pump that that moves over 4x the liquid of a Corsair and a much better CPU block, and a far more efficient radiator design made from materials that dissipate far more heat than the aluminum your are used to. This allows the Swiftech to outperform the Corsair while still staying ~15-20 dB quieter.
> 
> As far as the pump, there were issues with the H220. That is *not* the pump that is in the H220-X or H240-X. The pump included in these has an outstanding track record and an incredibly low failure rate.


I ordered the Cooler master clone of the h220 before I realized it was the rev1 not the rev2, how hoes the pump compare to the eisberg 240 rev2 pump?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> Has anyone done a guide on switching out the tubing and adding a GPU waterblock on the H220-X.
> 
> So far my parts list is the H220X
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
> X1
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22421/ex-tub-2517/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBEDML.html?tl=g30c703s2263
> X6
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24287/ex-liq-387/Mayhems_Aurora_2_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Tharsis_Red_.html?tl=g30c337s1809
> X1
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25284/ex-tub-3406/Bitspower_Crystal_Link_Tube_12mm_OD_-_1000mm_3937_BP-NCCLT12AC-L1000.html?tl=g30c633s2057
> X1
> 
> I have to do more research to find which waterblock will fit my XFX R9 390 I believe EK has some that will fit.
> 
> The question I had is how does this parts list look is everything compatible? Also another issue is with me having the AIO in the front the drain is pointing down. Should I shoot off a tube with a some kind of valve on it to FIll and Drain, or should I add another resivour? This will be my first watercooling experience, but I have been a craftsman for 10 years professionally and am sure I can handle the technical side of building it. Build in SIG.
> 
> Any help is appreciated, thank you.


I added a gpu block and rad to my H220-X all the fittings are G1/4 except the outlet on the pump, make sure and get the adapter if you want full hard tubing. http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## mcnumpty23

so finally got my hands on an h240x and installed it and expanded it--pretty happy with the results

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/Screenshot_2_zpsmlkd8edx.png.html

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/DSC_0130_zps3xmrz5cl.jpg.html

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/Screenshot_1_zpssqooe7n8.png.html


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I added a gpu block and rad to my H220-X all the fittings are G1/4 except the outlet on the pump, make sure and get the adapter if you want full hard tubing. http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


I'm really having no luck with finding a GPU block specially made for the 390 , which is really disapointing I may just end up swaping out fluid and tubes, or doing nothing at all.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> I ordered the Cooler master clone of the h220 before I realized it was the rev1 not the rev2, how hoes the pump compare to the eisberg 240 rev2 pump?


I still had Rev2 pump die on me. I would stick with the Swifty H220-X variant.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> I'm really having no luck with finding a GPU block specially made for the 390 , which is really disapointing I may just end up swaping out fluid and tubes, or doing nothing at all.


Have you looked at this http://www.ekwb.com/news/606/19/Existing-EK-Full-Cover-blocks-compatible-with-Radeon-Rx-300-series-GPUs/

They say R9 290 blocks should work. EK cooling configuration shows 4 XFX R9 390 cards.


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Have you looked at this http://www.ekwb.com/news/606/19/Existing-EK-Full-Cover-blocks-compatible-with-Radeon-Rx-300-series-GPUs/
> 
> They say R9 290 blocks should work. EK cooling configuration shows 4 XFX R9 390 cards.


Yes I checked it out my model is not up there, and the ones with the new inductors show only the universal ones which don't cool the VRMS. So I am at a bit of a loss what to do.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I still had Rev2 pump die on me. I would stick with the Swifty H220-X variant.


Yeah that's not an option right now, it is between the eisberg and this one +rep(virtual) for answering though
just realized you are ex staff


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Yeah that's not an option right now, it is between the eisberg and this one +rep(virtual) for answering though
> just realized you are ex staff


Still kinda am staff, I am on the OCN Overclock Labs Review team.







I have thought about going with the Rev 1 as well. This Nepton 240M they sent me from RMA is good and all, but doesn't give me anything in terms of upgrades.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Still kinda am staff, I am on the OCN Overclock Labs Review team.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have thought about going with the Rev 1 as well. This Nepton 240M they sent me from RMA is good and all, but doesn't give me anything in terms of upgrades.


I'll send it back soon as I get it or sell it on here if you are interested let me know


----------



## bl4ckdot

Hey guys,
I currently have the H220X and I'm looking to wc my 980 Ti Classy.
I need some informations about that. I'm more or less still a noob in WC and bought the H220X so I could learn and get an expansion. So there it is.
I saw this GPU block : https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel
My questions :
- is the H220X poweful enough for a 4790k at 4.6 / 1.2V and a 980 Ti Classy ?
- what do I need with the GPU block (tubing/adapter etc..)

Thanks a lot


----------



## Avonosac

I guess this is off topic.. but I'm seeing a different ST guy in the thread, is brian no longer with the company?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I guess this is off topic.. but I'm seeing a different ST guy in the thread, is brian no longer with the company?


Bryan left a month or so ago under good terms and circumstance.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Bryan left a month or so ago under good terms and circumstance.


Thanks, good to hear it was an amicable split.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl4ckdot*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I currently have the H220X and I'm looking to wc my 980 Ti Classy.
> I need some informations about that. I'm more or less still a noob in WC and bought the H220X so I could learn and get an expansion. So there it is.
> I saw this GPU block : https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc780-gtx-classy-acetal-nickel
> My questions :
> - is the H220X poweful enough for a 4790k at 4.6 / 1.2V and a 980 Ti Classy ?
> - what do I need with the GPU block (tubing/adapter etc..)
> 
> Thanks a lot


The H220-X will not be enough. I have the same CPU/GPU combo (4790k @4.8/1.3V & 980 Ti Classy 1500/8000/1.23V) with an H240-X and Alphacool XT45 140mm (double thick) rad and I consistently see temps in the 60c's when playing intense games (that is 280mm+140mm of radiator). At an absolute minimum you will want an additional quality 120mm rad. A 220mm (not "thin") would be best.

Other stuff you will need:
- Matching size tubing and fittings (3/8th or 1/2 are most common. Also, the thicker the tubing, the more of a pain in the ass it is to work with.)
- A quality thermal compound for the chip (I like Noctua NT-H1)
- Choose between distilled water and a biocide/anticorrosive or a pre-mixed solution (Only do clear. If you want color... get colored tubing).
- Thermal pads (see PDF on the EKWB link you posted. Higher W/mK = better heat transfer but you don't need to get the most expensive stuff. MAKE SURE you get enough and of the RIGHT SIZES)
- If you aren't using the EK backplate, you will need slightly longer screws to install the stock classified one. (Again, reference the EK PDF)
- Paper towels when you do a leak test (run pump independent of system for 24hrs... look for leaks)
- Quality high static pressure fans for your additional radiator

Stuff you should consider:
- A G/14 fill port water temp sensor is advisable
- A quick release system somewhere in your loop is always a good idea (I didn't do this and I regret it)
- Rubber washers for your contacts between the chassis and your radiators (prevents scratching and vibrations)
- 45 and 90 degree adapters fittings will help you get tubes facing the right way
- If you want, use some thermal pad and a heat spreader on the VRM
See top right of image:


Other points:
- Seriously, plan and check carefully. That tube you think may bend a certain way in your head may not be so cooperative in reality. That fan for your radiator may look like it will clear that fitting but in reality...







There is nothing worse than putting everything together and then finding out there is a clearance or length issue. Double check everything.
- Set aside a clean, static free, open workplace. Also give yourself no less than 3hrs for the construction and 24+ for the leak test.
- Search YouTube for how to get bubbles out of your loop. A SMALL drop of dish soap (no bleach) does wonders.

Picture of my loop:


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Bryan left a month or so ago under good terms and circumstance.


Yes, he originally planned on leaving a year earlier than this. He even announced this was the case but if I'm remembering correctly his housing plans in Europe/Germany fell through so he stuck around for another year. Great guy!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes, he originally planned on leaving a year earlier than this. He even announced this was the case but if I'm remembering correctly his housing plans in Europe/Germany fell through so he stuck around for another year. *Great guy!*


My sentiments as well, he usually went above and beyond for ST as far as support goes, spending a lot of his personal time working in this thread.

That is kinda why I was surprised when I saw his tag without the Hardware Rep. I haven't been following this thread very closely since the initial fix of the original h220, so while it was probably public info in the thread, 1742 pages is a lot to search through to find an answer.


----------



## bl4ckdot

@Paskowitz : Well that's what I feared







Thanks a lot for your very informative post


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> My sentiments as well, he usually went above and beyond for ST as far as support goes, spending a lot of his personal time working in this thread.
> 
> That is kinda why I was surprised when I saw his tag without the Hardware Rep. I haven't been following this thread very closely since the initial fix of the original h220, so while it was probably public info in the thread, 1742 pages is a lot to search through to find an answer.


I am the new rep for Swiftech. If you have any question about our product or general question about water cooling, feel free to ask.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> I am the new rep for Swiftech. If you have any question about our product or general question about water cooling, feel free to ask.


First off a big OCN welcome!
Could you send me a 240mm rad to review? Ill pair it with my H220 Ive already expanded to include my gtx 770


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> First off a big OCN welcome!
> Could you send me a 240mm rad to review? Ill pair it with my H220 Ive already expanded to include my gtx 770


E-mail me with your proposal at [email protected] I will give to our PR team too look in to it.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> E-mail me with your proposal at [email protected] I will give to our PR team too look in to it.


Wow cool, email sent and thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl4ckdot*
> 
> @Paskowitz : Well that's what I feared
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for your very informative post


although i agree mostly, "thin" or thick makes little difference, i am in love with fat rads, but in reality thickness does not matter as much as people think [email protected]

you are far better served going one fan bigger in size then increasing rad thickness [email protected] ( iirc martin proved this on martins liquid lab )

basic rule of thumb is 120 +(x)120

where x= number of cpu/gpus trying to cool !

unless you are me in which it is x(480) or x(360) because i can !


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> The pump in my h100i is starting to make too much noise and Amazon offers me refund, so Im looking for a new cooler. And a H220x or h240x could be an option. Im a silence freak and I have some doubts:
> 
> - How noisy are pum and fans? Im specially worried about pump. Is it noisy? Do you have to adjust the speed to make it silent?
> - Ive read that its not uncommon that the pump dies after some use. Is it a common problem or rather unusual?
> 
> Thanks a lot for your help


Get the H220-X it is quieter than the H240-X and cools nearly as good. I had the H100i and the H220-X is virtually silent by comparison. The H100i fan noise brings back memories of the old Delta high rpm fans I had on my Celeron 400a @ 600 in the late nineties! To get good performance out of an H100i you have to subject yourself to quite a bit of noise, even replacing the fans with Corsair SP120's.
I can barely hear the pump in the H220-X and that is with my ear up against the case and this is at idle when everything is relatively silent. Even at full load everything is still fairly quiet and way quieter than the H100i at load.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> I am the new rep for Swiftech. If you have any question about our product or general question about water cooling, feel free to ask.












I have no requirements for help, spent a lot of the early H220 release days helping Bryan calm the nerves of many other people in this thread with some of the early release H220 before the pump was fixed. Was just hoping everything was still OK.


----------



## Mega Man

I known him for several years as well sad to sees him go.


----------



## bazookatooths

Does anyone around here know if anyone manufactures Custom LED covers for the CPU BLOCK

I saw one on this aamazing build The Supercell by banginbanana and it just looks great.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/2r57jd/build_complete_the_supercell_matx_high_res/


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> Does anyone around here know if anyone manufactures Custom LED covers for the CPU BLOCK
> 
> I saw one on this aamazing build The Supercell by banginbanana and it just looks great.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/2r57jd/build_complete_the_supercell_matx_high_res/


3D Printing. Shouldn't be too difficult.


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 3D Printing. Shouldn't be too difficult.


Good idea!


----------



## Streetdragon

Littel question:
I wanna expand my WC. I know it can handle a GPU Block and a 120mm radiator. But can it to a 240 or even a 360 radiator?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Littel question:
> I wanna expand my WC. I know it can handle a GPU Block and a 120mm radiator. But can it to a 240 or even a 360 radiator?


Yes it can Ive seen lots of builds with an extra 240mm rad


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Littel question:
> I wanna expand my WC. I know it can handle a GPU Block and a 120mm radiator. But can it to a 240 or even a 360 radiator?


Radiators have very little restriction in your loop, far less than a CPU or GPU block. The difference in restriction and flow between a 120 and 360 (or even 480) is almost non-existent. The pump would have no issues with adding one or two rads, even larger ones.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Yes it can Ive seen lots of builds with an extra 240mm rad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Radiators have very little restriction in your loop, far less than a CPU or GPU block. The difference in restriction and flow between a 120 and 360 (or even 480) is almost non-existent. The pump would have no issues with adding one or two rads, even larger ones.


Ok Thx. Now waiting for Christmas and then i buy an Alphacool NexXxoS GPX - ATI R9 390 M01 and a 240 Radiator. Dont know wich one.. but i will see^^

Edit Alphacool NexXxoS GPX what are the right fittings for it? xD I wanna use this tubing: "3/8 ID - 5/8 OD" so i can expand the H240-X without problems.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Ok Thx. Now waiting for Christmas and then i buy an Alphacool NexXxoS GPX - ATI R9 390 M01 and a 240 Radiator. Dont know wich one.. but i will see^^
> 
> Edit Alphacool NexXxoS GPX what are the right fittings for it? xD I wanna use this tubing: "3/8 ID - 5/8 OD" so i can expand the H240-X without problems.


Most threads are the standard G1/4 these days. Also depends if your going barb or compression etc Just so you know I think swiftech sell interchangeable fittings for the h240x coolers? @Dango


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Littel question:
> I wanna expand my WC. I know it can handle a GPU Block and a 120mm radiator. But can it to a 240 or even a 360 radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators have very little restriction in your loop, far less than a CPU or GPU block. The difference in restriction and flow between a 120 and 360 (or even 480) is almost non-existent. The pump would have no issues with adding one or two rads, even larger ones.
Click to expand...

true with the exception of the original h220 rads, although they are fine they are far more restrictive then most rads


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> true with the exception of the original h220 rads, although they are fine they are far more restrictive then most rads


even so I have the h220x an h220 rad and a 280 rad two gpu blocks and temps are good but everything must be ran 100 percent


----------



## Mega Man

it is the gpu blocks. at 1-2 blocks i run 2 pumps, 3+ i run 4, granted i do overkill. but 1-2 blocks a good point is 1 piump and 3+ 2 at least.

also i dont run d5s ( although i may check them out in my tx10, i have exclusively ran ddcs, although if swiftech @Dango will ever release a dual pump top i will think about using the new swiftech pump )

please note by blocks i mean CPU or GPU, not memory or vrm, or others


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is the gpu blocks. at 1-2 blocks i run 2 pumps, 3+ i run 4, granted i do overkill. but 1-2 blocks a good point is 1 piump and 3+ 2 at least.
> 
> also i dont run d5s ( although i may check them out in my tx10, i have exclusively ran ddcs, although if swiftech @Dango will ever release a dual pump top i will think about using the new swiftech pump )
> 
> please note by blocks i mean CPU or GPU, not memory or vrm, or others


there is a 35 x 2 top which I think works on the 50 as well..http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35X2housing.aspx

Edit: doesnt say it will work on the 50x but perhaps @Dango can tell us if it would...since you can use the 50x as replacement for the 30 and 35x in the x variant units perhaps this would work

I've got a mcp50x that's been sitting here awhile I just haven't installed it


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there is a 35 x 2 top which I think works on the 50 as well..http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35X2housing.aspx
> 
> Edit: doesnt say it will work on the 50x but perhaps @Dango can tell us if it would...since you can use the 50x as replacement for the 30 and 35x in the x variant units perhaps this would work
> 
> I've got a mcp50x that's been sitting here awhile I just haven't installed it


No, the MCP35X2 top will not fit on MCP50X. They have different impeller design. I will talk with our manage team about dual MCP50X top.


----------



## Mega Man

Last I knew Gabe said no. I know I would buy them. I would love a prototype quad top......


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Last I knew Gabe said no. I know I would buy them. I would love a prototype quad top......


it does seem odd they have dual top for the 35 but not the top of the line...I'm guessing the 35x2 didn't sell very well?


----------



## bazookatooths

Welp put in my order for some clear tube, and colored coolant going to start off small and work my way up!


----------



## diggiddi

Can anyone help out with AMD mounting instructions first page doesn't seem to have any for Glacer 240l
Thx


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Can anyone help out with AMD mounting instructions first page doesn't seem to have any for Glacer 240l
> Thx






, it should help.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Can anyone help out with AMD mounting instructions first page doesn't seem to have any for Glacer 240l
> Thx


to add to the video take your mobo and put it on something anti static with a "cushion" i either use a pillow or folded towel. ( you can do this in your case too, lay the case down with the back of the mobo away from you with either a pillow or folded towel under it ) i would again like to note, these items are not anti static ! you need another anti static layer down

then mount it like you normally would. this is how you mount a swiftech block in 2 min or less - without backplate issues the same can be done to intels when needed !. you can apply pressure as long as you use a "stiff filler" and not a soft one that will compress


----------



## diggiddi

Thanks guys +rep to you both


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it should help.


Can the elbows on the pump be replaced with metal ones?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Can the elbows on the pump be replaced with metal ones?


Yes, there is an adapter to convert the pump fitting mount to G1/4. You can use this with any stander fittings you want.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Yes, there is an adapter to convert the pump fitting mount to G1/4. You can use this with any stander fittings you want.


Thanx once again +rep
What would be a better replacement
this
http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Dual-Swivel-Elbow-adapter-1.aspx

or this
http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Can the elbows on the pump be replaced with metal ones?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Yes, there is an adapter to convert the pump fitting mount to G1/4. You can use this with any stander fittings you want.


Dango - I believe the poster stated he has a Glacer 240L, I was under the impression that these adapters only work with the X series.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Dango - I believe the poster stated he has a Glacer 240L, I was under the impression that these adapters only work with the X series.


that he did about five posts up at the end...


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that he did about five posts up at the end...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Dango - I believe the poster stated he has a Glacer 240L, I was under the impression that these adapters only work with the X series.


That adapter will also work on H220/H320 unit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> That adapter will also work on H220/H320 unit.


nice I thought the elbows looked the same but didn't want to steer wrong if it was an oversight


----------



## bazookatooths

First modifications went well.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> First modifications went well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good.


----------



## InsideJob

Guys I recently noticed some sort of build up on the window of the reservoir on my H220X near the lights. It appears to be caused by the lights as the spots of buildup are only occuring below each LED. I don't think it'll be anything to worry about but I wanted to make sure. Here's some pictures.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Guys I recently noticed some sort of build up on the window of the reservoir on my H220X near the lights. It appears to be caused by the lights as the spots of buildup are only occuring below each LED. I don't think it'll be anything to worry about but I wanted to make sure. Here's some pictures.


do you have the old tubing (shiny black) or the new matte black? Or did you replace the tubing? If so with what...tbh it looks like plasticizer to me...


----------



## InsideJob

It's still completely stock. It's got the matte rubber tubing.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Guys I recently noticed some sort of build up on the window of the reservoir on my H220X near the lights. It appears to be caused by the lights as the spots of buildup are only occuring below each LED. I don't think it'll be anything to worry about but I wanted to make sure. Here's some pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It is hard to tell but it could also be sediment build up. Did you use tap water or distilled water?


----------



## InsideJob

It's whatever came in it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> It's whatever came in it.


highly unlikely us plasticizer then the new tubing should be free of that


----------



## bazookatooths

Hey all I've done my first changing of fluid, and I believe I have gotten all the major air bubbles out, by turning side to side, speeding up and down pump. Now I have moved to the micro bubble stage where they are accumilating on top of the reservoir, from what I have read that this is normal and will go away on its own in a couple weeks. My question is does the same thing apply to the H220X? Just wait it out , and all will be well or should I attempt to try to bleed them off, I have the AIO front mounted which makes the drain plug at the bottom, i'm afraid if I turn it a bit the fluid will drain out. I have tried turning the entire system upside and bleed it, but once I turn it back around they reappear magically. I'm guessing I should just wait it out?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> Hey all I've done my first changing of fluid, and I believe I have gotten all the major air bubbles out, by turning side to side, speeding up and down pump. Now I have moved to the micro bubble stage where they are accumilating on top of the reservoir, from what I have read that this is normal and will go away on its own in a couple weeks. My question is does the same thing apply to the H220X? Just wait it out , and all will be well or should I attempt to try to bleed them off, I have the AIO front mounted which makes the drain plug at the bottom, i'm afraid if I turn it a bit the fluid will drain out. I have tried turning the entire system upside and bleed it, but once I turn it back around they reappear magically. I'm guessing I should just wait it out?


what happens is they go into the return line and when you bring it back up right they come back out..they bubbles should combine to form one pocket eventually and you could top it off if you wanted...I like to keep mine as full as it can possibly get but that's a personal preference


----------



## benbenkr

Don't worry about micro bubbles. It's not an issue, mine took 3 weeks+ before everything went away. No difference in temps before and after, not even a degree lol.


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Don't worry about micro bubbles. It's not an issue, mine took 3 weeks+ before everything went away. No difference in temps before and after, not even a degree lol.


Ty for the clarity brother! I shall wait it out!


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Guys I recently noticed some sort of build up on the window of the reservoir on my H220X near the lights. It appears to be caused by the lights as the spots of buildup are only occuring below each LED. I don't think it'll be anything to worry about but I wanted to make sure. Here's some pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like some small bubbles clinging to the acrylic window, lighting just makes it more visible. Is the unit new, or been moved or had it's coolant changed recently?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> Hey all I've done my first changing of fluid, and I believe I have gotten all the major air bubbles out, by turning side to side, speeding up and down pump. Now I have moved to the micro bubble stage where they are accumilating on top of the reservoir, from what I have read that this is normal and will go away on its own in a couple weeks. My question is does the same thing apply to the H220X? Just wait it out , and all will be well or should I attempt to try to bleed them off, I have the AIO front mounted which makes the drain plug at the bottom, i'm afraid if I turn it a bit the fluid will drain out. I have tried turning the entire system upside and bleed it, but once I turn it back around they reappear magically. I'm guessing I should just wait it out?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've found these units are nearly impossible to 100% fully bleed once you open them, there will always be some air due to the gaps in the reservoir and radiator mounting. I've spent dozens of hours trying to bleed these (even using a small reservoir attached to the fillport), it's annoying as once you turn the pump off the air goes back into the radiator due to gravity on the other side of the U-flow channels. I think the only way to fully bleed would be using the bleed screw which is only on certain units. It shouldn't be an issue once everything settles down though, just keep topping it off as much as possible and tilt it slightly. I think the best mounting position is with fillport on top, tbh.


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Looks like some small bubbles clinging to the acrylic window, lighting just makes it more visible. Is the unit new, or been moved or had it's coolant changed recently?
> I've found these units are nearly impossible to 100% fully bleed once you open them, there will always be some air due to the gaps in the reservoir and radiator mounting. I've spent dozens of hours trying to bleed these (even using a small reservoir attached to the fillport), it's annoying as once you turn the pump off the air goes back into the radiator due to gravity on the other side of the U-flow channels. I think the only way to fully bleed would be using the bleed screw which is only on certain units. It shouldn't be an issue once everything settles down though, just keep topping it off as much as possible and tilt it slightly. I think the best mounting position is with fillport on top, tbh.


This is what I figured I cannot fully top it off at this direction and cannot mount up top in this case. I have spent about 6 hours trying to fill it all the way to top and then once I flip it to put in case always a gap in the resivour.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> This is what I figured I cannot fully top it off at this direction and cannot mount up top in this case. I have spent about 6 hours trying to fill it all the way to top and then once I flip it to put in case always a gap in the resivour.


you can fill it up fully but it takes patience...I've spent an hour before getting those last few small amounts in and that's after doing it probably 15 times


----------



## deme

I received yesterday my new H220-X (after I RMA'd the previous one due to pump rattling issues) from Coolerkit (thank you guys for your quick support







). Just to inform EU -possible- buyers, they have the new revision of the unit with the new rubber tubing / no screw on tank window / fixed power supply on pump. Let's hope this time the pump wont fail me.


----------



## Vlada011

That's nice to hear Swiftech is great but people in Europe long time couldn't find them.


----------



## Kutalion

After all the bad stuff you said about Swiftech H2x0-X in the local forums, you shouldnt visit this thread Vlado.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> I received yesterday my new H220-X (after I RMA'd the previous one due to pump rattling issues) from Coolerkit (thank you guys for your quick support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Just to inform EU -possible- buyers, they have the new revision of the unit with the new rubber tubing / no screw on tank window / fixed power supply on pump. Let's hope this time the pump wont fail me.


Did the previous one you had differ in all the ways you mention above?

I got my from CoolerKit as well. I'm very impressed with their customer service though it's a shame they put up the prices after I'd got mine.

My first H220-X was from HighFlow in Holland but I sent it back immediately and unused because it had the shiny plastic tubing. HighFlow tried to rip me off by giving me a partial refund in contravention of E.U. trading laws. A quick call to PayPal and they refunded the full amount.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> After all the bad stuff you said about Swiftech H2x0-X in the local forums, you shouldnt visit this thread Vlado.


Considering this forum is Canada/USA based we support free speech so he can come here all he wants, even if his views differ.


----------



## deme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Did the previous one you had differ in all the ways you mention above?
> 
> I got my from CoolerKit as well. I'm very impressed with their customer service though it's a shame they put up the prices after I'd got mine.
> 
> My first H220-X was from HighFlow in Holland but I sent it back immediately and unused because it had the shiny plastic tubing. HighFlow tried to rip me off by giving me a partial refund in contravention of E.U. trading laws. A quick call to PayPal and they refunded the full amount.


The fist unit I received was the old one with the old shiny tubing / sepearate power pump cable / screw on the window tank. I was lucky though when I bought it, it was with the old prices just like you. I agree, their customer service is top notch!
I do not have any personal experience with HighFlow but all I hear is complaints.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deme*
> 
> I received yesterday my new H220-X (after I RMA'd the previous one due to pump rattling issues) from Coolerkit (thank you guys for your quick support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Just to inform EU -possible- buyers, they have the new revision of the unit with the new rubber tubing / no screw on tank window / fixed power supply on pump. Let's hope this time the pump wont fail me.
> 
> 
> 
> Did the previous one you had differ in all the ways you mention above?
> 
> I got my from CoolerKit as well. I'm very impressed with their customer service though it's a shame they put up the prices after I'd got mine.
> 
> My first H220-X was from HighFlow in Holland but I sent it back immediately and unused because it had the shiny plastic tubing. HighFlow tried to rip me off by giving me a partial refund in contravention of E.U. trading laws. A quick call to PayPal and they refunded the full amount.
Click to expand...


----------



## hypespazm

my h240x is making a weird whinning noise. its not loud... just started yesterday, also it was making noise while it had no power at all from the psu, what can this be indicating and how can I get rid of the noise?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> my h240x is making a weird whinning noise. its not loud... just started yesterday, also it was making noise while it had no power at all from the psu, what can this be indicating and how can I get rid of the noise?


Are you saying it makes noise when power is disconnected? That would be odd and I think that is not the case. Could you please elaborate?

If that is the case then there may be something else making the noise.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are you saying it makes noise when power is disconnected? That would be odd and I think that is not the case. Could you please elaborate?
> 
> If that is the case then there may be something else making the noise.


I swear its the pump its like a static noise. its not that loud but it is definitely new...


----------



## Caos

Hi, h220x supports socket 2011-v3? because I want to change my z97 by 2011-v3. Thank you


----------



## Mega Man

It supports 2011 iirc so that would mean it supports all 2011 as they never changed the cooler mounts


----------



## ivoryg37

has there been any coolant confirmed for long usage that can replace the stock h220x fluid? I'm interested in adding a GPU to the loop but don't want to use the green HydroX fluid swiftech recommends to not clog the pump. I know EK pastel doesn't work well in this AIO but will the other EK fluids that are transparent work?


----------



## d0mmie

Yes the EK standard fluids work excellent (produced by Mayhems).


----------



## paskowitz

I use the EK-Ekoolant EVO clear premix in mine and it's all good.


----------



## v1ral

So Pastels for sure don't work?
I want to change to Mayhem's clear tubing since it's so cheap and put some pastel stuff in it.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> So Pastels for sure don't work?
> I want to change to Mayhem's clear tubing since it's so cheap and put some pastel stuff in it.


Swiftech doesn't recommend using pastels, as it seems it can clog up the pump. But I've seen plenty of pictures with people using it, and never read about anyone having issues with it. So you might be able to do it, however you probably would have to refresh and clean your system every 6 months to avoid problems. It's a gamble for sure.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> I swear its the pump its like a static noise. its not that loud but it is definitely new...


Check your PSU. The pump should not receive any power during power off.


----------



## Tim Drake

Should I get a Swiftech H220 for around £74 after Christmas?

I feel like it's a great mix between performance that I need and the ability to go custom loop when I so desire.

I am worried about the issues people complain about tho :/


----------



## Mega Man

<< still have my h220 from near release no problems !`


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> << still have my h220 from near release no problems !`


Same here. But I did have to take it apart after so long. I cleaned it thoroughly and filtered the coolant. There was some type of buildup that stopped the motor, but since cleaning, works flawless. No air bubbles either.


----------



## Tim Drake

How would I replace the tubes to clear ones with yellow liquid? What type of liquid should I get?

I'm still completely new to custom water cooling


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Should I get a Swiftech H220 for around £74 after Christmas?
> 
> I feel like it's a great mix between performance that I need and the ability to go custom loop when I so desire.
> 
> I am worried about the issues people complain about tho :/


It seems a good deal especially with the 220-X going for £150 at Scan. You should be prepared for the chance of plasticizer issues that may result in you having flush it out before the recommended period of 2 years for the 220-X.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> It seems a good deal especially with the 220-X going for £150 at Scan. You should be prepared for the chance of plasticizer issues that may result in you having flush it out before the recommended period of 2 years for the 220-X.


What does that mean?

And it is new but I have heard these kinds of water coolers will last much longer than CLC since you can perform maintenance. Is this true?


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> Same here. But I did have to take it apart after so long. I cleaned it thoroughly and filtered the coolant. There was some type of buildup that stopped the motor, but since cleaning, works flawless. No air bubbles either.


So did I. That PM2 coolant was a problem, it left a lot of residue behind and clogged the pump. I have since started using distilled water and a couple drops of dead water and it is crystal clear in the reservoir all the time. The H220 is an awesome cooler but it's even better now that it no longer has any particles in it anymore.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It supports 2011 iirc so that would mean it supports all 2011 as they never changed the cooler mounts


ok thanks


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> So did I. That PM2 coolant was a problem, it left a lot of residue behind and clogged the pump. I have since started using distilled water and a couple drops of dead water and it is crystal clear in the reservoir all the time. The H220 is an awesome cooler but it's even better now that it no longer has any particles in it anymore.


Yup, it's a great cooler, just had a bit if a rough start. (From what I've seen anyway).

About the residue, I figured it was plasticizer ? But it's no longer an issue for me anyway.


----------



## zila

You know, I thought it was plasticizer too and for all I know maybe it was. But after going to distilled water I no longer have any visible debris in the reservoir. I'm still using the same tubes that came with it. The only thing I've changed is that I no longer use any store bought coolants. I think maybe the PM2 was the problem all along.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> How would I replace the tubes to clear ones with yellow liquid? What type of liquid should I get?
> 
> I'm still completely new to custom water cooling


I also would like to know, except I'm going green.


----------



## diggiddi

Is anyone rocking these with 4 sticks of ram on the asus sabertooth 990fx ? The elbows are preventing me from using the first ram slot


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Is anyone rocking these with 4 sticks of ram on the asus sabertooth 990fx ? The elbows are preventing me from using the first ram slot


You may have to rotate it then..


----------



## Tim Drake

What size are the tubes and which Yellow liquid should I get? I'm looking to buy one used at Christmas and modify it to match my MPower build.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> What size are the tubes and which Yellow liquid should I get? I'm looking to buy one used at Christmas and modify it to match my MPower build.


3/8 x 5/8 tubing. You are better off getting yellow tubing and staying away from colored liquids. With colored liquids you always run the risk of tdye falling out of suspension, stained parts, build up, etc, etc, etc.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 3/8 x 5/8 tubing. You are better off getting yellow tubing and staying away from colored liquids. With colored liquids you always run the risk of tdye falling out of suspension, stained parts, build up, etc, etc, etc.


But.. But.. Doesn't clear tubing + colored liquid look a lot better?









EDIT: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/tubing?sPage=1&sPerPage=384

Looks like there's no yellow tubing anyway :/

EDIT 2: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-clear-watercooling-tubing-38-58-10-16mm-wc-114-mh.html

Would this work okay with the Swiftech H220?

And use this to fill it? : https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-x1-uv-yellow-green-premixed-watercooling-fluid-1l-wc-032-mh.html

Nvm, seems like I need to find a pastel yellow.

What's good to buy? As I have no bloody clue what i'm doing lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> But.. But.. Doesn't clear tubing + colored liquid look a lot better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/tubing?sPage=1&sPerPage=384
> 
> Looks like there's no yellow tubing anyway :/
> 
> EDIT 2: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-clear-watercooling-tubing-38-58-10-16mm-wc-114-mh.html
> 
> Would this work okay with the Swiftech H220?
> 
> And use this to fill it? : https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-x1-uv-yellow-green-premixed-watercooling-fluid-1l-wc-032-mh.html
> 
> Nvm, seems like I need to find a pastel yellow.
> 
> What's good to buy? As I have no bloody clue what i'm doing lol


http://www.primochill.com/product-category/primochill/tubing/flexible/advanced-lrt/?filtering=1&filter_color=2757&filter_size=2712


----------



## Tim Drake

Also, where could I get anti kink coil for my H110? Anybody here know?

I am un sure of tubing size


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Also, where could I get anti kink coil for my H110? Anybody here know?
> 
> I am un sure of tubing size


You are having a kinking issue with Asetek tubing? That's a new one on me..... You would be far better off trying to route the tubing better.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are having a kinking issue with Asetek tubing? That's a new one on me..... You would be far better off trying to route the tubing better.


No, I just think it looks really nice and might add some nice looks to my bland H110 tubing when I have Yellow tubing on a H220.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> You know, I thought it was plasticizer too and for all I know maybe it was. But after going to distilled water I no longer have any visible debris in the reservoir. I'm still using the same tubes that came with it. The only thing I've changed is that I no longer use any store bought coolants. I think maybe the PM2 was the problem all along.


Yeah, I'm not sure either. I was going by what I read about the tubing (shiny black ones), even the Swiftech reps have said it was plasticizer.

But if its the coolant too, well, I used coffee filters to filter the coolant a couple times, seems to do a good job. I am actually still re-using the same coolant. Don't know if that's good or bad, but has been fine thus far. I also top it off with distilled water.

Had the H220 since May of 2013. Have done full maintenance on it 2 times. First was the noise (air bubble) issue, next was when the pump stopped, was clogged up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> You know, I thought it was plasticizer too and for all I know maybe it was. But after going to distilled water I no longer have any visible debris in the reservoir. I'm still using the same tubes that came with it. The only thing I've changed is that I no longer use any store bought coolants. I think maybe the PM2 was the problem all along.


Interestingly enough, I had two bottles of PM2 (out of six on hand) that developed insane growths sitting in a dark cabinet in a ~70 degree room. Maybe PM2 was a big part of the problem all along.

At the same time, I had two builds using PM2 for ~14 months that were absolutely perfect when I did maintenance. The blocks all looked brand new, and not a hint of anything in the PM2 when I drained it.


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interestingly enough, I had two bottles of PM2 (out of six on hand) that developed insane growths sitting in a dark cabinet in a ~70 degree room. Maybe PM2 was a big part of the problem all along.
> 
> At the same time, I had two builds using PM2 for ~14 months that were absolutely perfect when I did maintenance. The blocks all looked brand new, and not a hint of anything in the PM2 when I drained it.


Strange, I had a similar experience with a couple of bottles of that stuff. I tossed it out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Strange, I had a similar experience with a couple of bottles of that stuff. I tossed it out.


I should note - the bottles with the issue came from FrozenCPU and did not have the same labels as the bottles I received directly from Swiftech. I had pointed this out to Bryan when I saw it. I should have kept the labels on the bad bottles and sent them over to him, they appeared to be done on an inkjet.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I should note - the bottles with the issue came from FrozenCPU and did not have the same labels as the bottles I received directly from Swiftech. I had pointed this out to Bryan when I saw it. I should have kept the labels on the bad bottles and sent them over to him, they appeared to be done on an inkjet.


Yeah "pm2"







probably their own distilled/dye job to save money...seeing where frozen ended up you never know...


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> You may have to rotate it then..


All the pics in the gallery with AMD chips seem to be using only 2sticks of RAM . Can someone else confirm thanks


----------



## bazookatooths

Okay so after a couple weeks of running the Mayhems Aurora red coolant the sparkles do adhere themselves to the tank reservoir wall making it look very cloudy. I'm trying to find a work around, if anyone has any info that can help, i've managed to clear it up a bit by rotating my pc. So if anyone has any work arounds please inform me.

Before



After


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry and im sure swift-tech will agree Aurora isn't supported in all in such systems.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry and im sure swift-tech will agree Aurora isn't supported in all in such systems.


they've stated it here before...the particles can build up in the pump and cause failure iirc...it may even void warranty...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bazookatooths*
> 
> Okay so after a couple weeks of running the Mayhems Aurora red coolant the sparkles do adhere themselves to the tank reservoir wall making it look very cloudy. I'm trying to find a work around, if anyone has any info that can help, i've managed to clear it up a bit by rotating my pc. So if anyone has any work arounds please inform me.


You put Aurora in an H220-X? Yikes......









I'm guessing you didn't click on the link that says "Please read our Aurora Wiki & Guide before purchasing", that leads to the page that starts with this:


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You put Aurora in an H220-X? Yikes......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing you didn't click on the link that says "Please read our Aurora Wiki & Guide before purchasing", that leads to the page that starts with this:


By using Aurora, the warranty on the unit will void. The coolant will clog the pump and the block overtime. And its almost impassible to clean it out of the loop.


----------



## duckyboy

Hi everybody, I just wanted to ask someone here if they know the answer or not but I do understand that provides a 3 year Warranty on all their AIOS and as someone that has had to go through them for their warranty, I can say that they probably have the best out there with their support staff too, but does anyone know what they cover in case of a leak? My buddy had his H220(older model) leak fluids in his entire rig but luckily his pc wasn't turned on, and after a week of drying and praying he powered it up and it seems to be working fine. My concern is if it were to leak while the rig is running, for sure it will cause some damage. I had my H220-x for almost a yearish but I'm just worried about it. My system is roughly around 3k Canadian and I don't think swiftech cover damages on my parts if it were to leak. or would they ?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Hi everybody, I just wanted to ask someone here if they know the answer or not but I do understand that provides a 3 year Warranty on all their AIOS and as someone that has had to go through them for their warranty, I can say that they probably have the best out there with their support staff too, but does anyone know what they cover in case of a leak? My buddy had his H220(older model) leak fluids in his entire rig but luckily his pc wasn't turned on, and after a week of drying and praying he powered it up and it seems to be working fine. My concern is if it were to leak while the rig is running, for sure it will cause some damage. I had my H220-x for almost a yearish but I'm just worried about it. My system is roughly around 3k Canadian and I don't think swiftech cover damages on my parts if it were to leak. or would they ?


I don't have an answer, but check your fittings every couple weeks or so and tighten any that have loosened. Front mounting your unit will reduce risk from the res/pump/rad from leaking and possibly damaging your GPU. If you do that, outside of an external force, there is very little risk of a leak happening.


----------



## bazookatooths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> By using Aurora, the warranty on the unit will void. The coolant will clog the pump and the block overtime. And its almost impassible to clean it out of the loop.


Thanks for the reply I was too excited about it and of course did no research, I must say though that fluid is absolutely gorgeous! I am going to order a cleaning kit and save that fluid for a future loop. Now I must decide to replace it with pastel red, or ice white! Thanks again.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Hi everybody, I just wanted to ask someone here if they know the answer or not but I do understand that provides a 3 year Warranty on all their AIOS and as someone that has had to go through them for their warranty, I can say that they probably have the best out there with their support staff too, but does anyone know what they cover in case of a leak? My buddy had his H220(older model) leak fluids in his entire rig but luckily his pc wasn't turned on, and after a week of drying and praying he powered it up and it seems to be working fine. My concern is if it were to leak while the rig is running, for sure it will cause some damage. I had my H220-x for almost a yearish but I'm just worried about it. My system is roughly around 3k Canadian and I don't think swiftech cover damages on my parts if it were to leak. or would they ?


They deal with this on a case by case basis. Most companies don't cover leaks though. Even corsair says they do But check out the stores around ocn. They usually don't pay 100% of damages.

Leaks do happen. But they are rare


----------



## Zensei

Just happened to me last Friday. I've just pasted in the emails to save time (with minor edits to remove identifying information) and guess this applies to both H220 and H240 AIOs from what I've read. Kind of long but gives you a better idea of what to expect if you have issues.

*My original email:*

I purchased the H240-X, order number XXXX, 11/12/14 for my new system build. Loved it but was a little concerned after reading about issues with the tubing. So I kept a close watch on the tubing and never had issues.

Yesterday, there was an unusual smell and I heard dripping inside my case. I popped off the top filter and saw fluid dripping from the plexiglass window of the H240-X (and when I looked closer I could see the crack - I've attached a picture). Fortunately, I caught it early and didn't get on any electrical/electronic components.

I've never touched or had to tighten any screws (such as the one in the plexiglass window) so I have to assume this is a product or manufacturing defect.

Anyway, I'm switching back to a high quality air cooler and am now an ex-Swiftech customer (and unfortunately out ~$160).

Please improve your QA for future customers.



*Reply from tech support:*

Hi,

I am sorry for the issue that you had with the kit. We aware the issue with the window crack, we have change the reservoir window's material and remove the bleed screw that use to be on the old unit. May I have a copy of original invoice, pump serial number (located behind the pump and start with MCP30) and your current shipping address. Once I have those information, I can start to issue you an RMA. I'm look forward to hearing from you.

*My reply:*

I'll forward you my original email for the unit and the address listed on it is still current. The pump serial is: MCP-2014-XXXXX. Instead of getting another/replacement unit, is it possible to get some of my money back.

*Reply from tech support:*

Your RMA number is XXXXXX. Please use this number for future reference and also put it on the box when you send this kit back to us. Please package the product in such a manner that it won't suffer damage during shipping. Be sure to protect the radiator so that the water block can't make contact with it during shipping. We aren't responsible for any damages that occur from shipping. Please clean off the thermal paste from your CPU block, and don't send back the fans, the accessories, or mounting hardware either. Also include a brief description of the issue that you've had with it. The address to ship it to is as follows:

Swiftech
151 W. Victoria Street,
Long Beach, CA,
90805

Once we receive your kit, and confirm that it's defective, we'll repair it, flush and refill it, and ship it back to you. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns regarding this process.

*My reply:*
Thanks for the information but not interested in having it repaired and put back into service (no longer trust the product). If I can't get any type of refund, I'm going to go ahead and trash it or offer online for someone who might want the parts.

Can I receive any type of refund?

I've already ordered a Noctua air cooler and am going to use that.

*Reply from tech support*
Hi again,

Unfortunately, we cannot offer any refund for unit that already been used.

*My reply:*
Used for 11 months but not able to any longer because of poor design or manufacturing, etc. Interesting, funny, and sad.

No reply back, as of yet.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zensei*
> 
> Just happened to me last Friday. I've just pasted in the emails to save time (with minor edits to remove identifying information) and guess this applies to both H220 and H240 AIOs from what I've read. Kind of long but gives you a better idea of what to expect if you have issues.
> 
> *My original email:*
> 
> I purchased the H240-X, order number XXXX, 11/12/14 for my new system build. Loved it but was a little concerned after reading about issues with the tubing. So I kept a close watch on the tubing and never had issues.
> 
> Yesterday, there was an unusual smell and I heard dripping inside my case. I popped off the top filter and saw fluid dripping from the plexiglass window of the H240-X (and when I looked closer I could see the crack - I've attached a picture). Fortunately, I caught it early and didn't get on any electrical/electronic components.
> 
> I've never touched or had to tighten any screws (such as the one in the plexiglass window) so I have to assume this is a product or manufacturing defect.
> 
> Anyway, I'm switching back to a high quality air cooler and am now an ex-Swiftech customer (and unfortunately out ~$160).
> 
> Please improve your QA for future customers.
> 
> 
> 
> *Reply from tech support:*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am sorry for the issue that you had with the kit. We aware the issue with the window crack, we have change the reservoir window's material and remove the bleed screw that use to be on the old unit. May I have a copy of original invoice, pump serial number (located behind the pump and start with MCP30) and your current shipping address. Once I have those information, I can start to issue you an RMA. I'm look forward to hearing from you.
> 
> *My reply:*
> 
> I'll forward you my original email for the unit and the address listed on it is still current. The pump serial is: MCP-2014-XXXXX. Instead of getting another/replacement unit, is it possible to get some of my money back.
> 
> *Reply from tech support:*
> 
> Your RMA number is XXXXXX. Please use this number for future reference and also put it on the box when you send this kit back to us. Please package the product in such a manner that it won't suffer damage during shipping. Be sure to protect the radiator so that the water block can't make contact with it during shipping. We aren't responsible for any damages that occur from shipping. Please clean off the thermal paste from your CPU block, and don't send back the fans, the accessories, or mounting hardware either. Also include a brief description of the issue that you've had with it. The address to ship it to is as follows:
> 
> Swiftech
> 151 W. Victoria Street,
> Long Beach, CA,
> 90805
> 
> Once we receive your kit, and confirm that it's defective, we'll repair it, flush and refill it, and ship it back to you. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns regarding this process.
> 
> *My reply:*
> Thanks for the information but not interested in having it repaired and put back into service (no longer trust the product). If I can't get any type of refund, I'm going to go ahead and trash it or offer online for someone who might want the parts.
> 
> Can I receive any type of refund?
> 
> I've already ordered a Noctua air cooler and am going to use that.
> 
> *Reply from tech support*
> Hi again,
> 
> Unfortunately, we cannot offer any refund for unit that already been used.
> 
> *My reply:*
> Used for 11 months but not able to any longer because of poor design or manufacturing, etc. Interesting, funny, and sad.
> 
> No reply back, as of yet.


you are aware that the with the window replaced this would not happen...if I were you I would accept the rma then sell the unit once it's returned if you don't trust it...I have the crack there as well and haven't yet replaced my window with the replacement they sent me as it doesn't leak and I haven't torn down my loop yet since...the new revisions don't have this issue as the bleed screw isn't present


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zensei*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just happened to me last Friday. I've just pasted in the emails to save time (with minor edits to remove identifying information) and guess this applies to both H220 and H240 AIOs from what I've read. Kind of long but gives you a better idea of what to expect if you have issues.
> 
> *My original email:*
> 
> I purchased the H240-X, order number XXXX, 11/12/14 for my new system build. Loved it but was a little concerned after reading about issues with the tubing. So I kept a close watch on the tubing and never had issues.
> 
> Yesterday, there was an unusual smell and I heard dripping inside my case. I popped off the top filter and saw fluid dripping from the plexiglass window of the H240-X (and when I looked closer I could see the crack - I've attached a picture). Fortunately, I caught it early and didn't get on any electrical/electronic components.
> 
> I've never touched or had to tighten any screws (such as the one in the plexiglass window) so I have to assume this is a product or manufacturing defect.
> 
> Anyway, I'm switching back to a high quality air cooler and am now an ex-Swiftech customer (and unfortunately out ~$160).
> 
> Please improve your QA for future customers.
> 
> 
> 
> *Reply from tech support:*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am sorry for the issue that you had with the kit. We aware the issue with the window crack, we have change the reservoir window's material and remove the bleed screw that use to be on the old unit. May I have a copy of original invoice, pump serial number (located behind the pump and start with MCP30) and your current shipping address. Once I have those information, I can start to issue you an RMA. I'm look forward to hearing from you.
> 
> *My reply:*
> 
> I'll forward you my original email for the unit and the address listed on it is still current. The pump serial is: MCP-2014-XXXXX. Instead of getting another/replacement unit, is it possible to get some of my money back.
> 
> *Reply from tech support:*
> 
> Your RMA number is XXXXXX. Please use this number for future reference and also put it on the box when you send this kit back to us. Please package the product in such a manner that it won't suffer damage during shipping. Be sure to protect the radiator so that the water block can't make contact with it during shipping. We aren't responsible for any damages that occur from shipping. Please clean off the thermal paste from your CPU block, and don't send back the fans, the accessories, or mounting hardware either. Also include a brief description of the issue that you've had with it. The address to ship it to is as follows:
> 
> Swiftech
> 151 W. Victoria Street,
> Long Beach, CA,
> 90805
> 
> Once we receive your kit, and confirm that it's defective, we'll repair it, flush and refill it, and ship it back to you. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns regarding this process.
> 
> *My reply:*
> Thanks for the information but not interested in having it repaired and put back into service (no longer trust the product). If I can't get any type of refund, I'm going to go ahead and trash it or offer online for someone who might want the parts.
> 
> Can I receive any type of refund?
> 
> I've already ordered a Noctua air cooler and am going to use that.
> 
> *Reply from tech support*
> Hi again,
> 
> Unfortunately, we cannot offer any refund for unit that already been used.
> 
> *My reply:*
> Used for 11 months but not able to any longer because of poor design or manufacturing, etc. Interesting, funny, and sad.
> 
> No reply back, as of yet.


You bought a product. Had a warranty Inc the manual that explains your warranty *in writing* . Then when something breaks you don't want them to honor the warranty, blame them for failure ( news flash stuff breaks ), tell them you will not buy their products any more, then complain when they don't give you money which is not in the specified warranty guarantee.

Yea I don't see how swiftech did anything wrong and going here to further try to pressure the company is pretty sad

*I do NOT represent swiftech in any way


----------



## Zensei

Thanks. I'm aware if I get the new, updated version it "probably" won't happen again but just don't want to take the chance. I'm considering myself lucky that it didn't leak everywhere and cause major issues with my computer. It's also obvious how the screw is the weak point but oh well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zensei*
> 
> Thanks. I'm aware if I get the new, updated version it "probably" won't happen again but just don't want to take the chance. I'm considering myself lucky that it didn't leak everywhere and cause major issues with my computer. It's also obvious how the screw is the weak point but oh well.


this was a design flaw,

which there was no way for any company to know about till they made it, found it had lots of issues, and then fixed,

all of which have already been taken care of by swiftech


----------



## Zensei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You bought a product. Had a warranty Inc the manual that explains your warranty *in writing* . Then when something breaks don't want them to honor the warranty, blame them for failure ( news flash stuff breaks ), tell them you will not buy their products any more, then complain when they don't give you money.
> 
> Yea I don't see how swiftech did anything wrong and going here to further try to pressure the company is pretty sad
> 
> *I do NOT represent swiftech in any way


Several points:

I posted this to inform others and am not trying to pressure the company to do anything (sad or otherwise). I've already given up on the product and am moving on and accepting the loss.
I hope for exceptional customer service and reward those who provide it but don't expect it.
Stuff breaks, yes I know, but when it's due to a design or manufacturing defect I hope companies stand behind their products.
The rep admits they know it's a design flaw but they don't even offer a prepaid shipping label.
If they knew it was a design flaw, they know who purchased the older versions and could have proactively contacted those customers and sent new replacement units (i.e., exceptional customer service and how to get customers for life).
Anyway, time is money and I'm not going to spend any more on this. Have a great one!

And: I do not represent swiftech in any way.

Edit: Sorry, my apologies. The last part was undeserved and juvenile (couldn't resist and it's the Internet after all, which still doesn't excuse it).


----------



## michael-ocn

Would it help if I polished my cpu block?



See that box in the middle of the block. It's (more) oxidized outside the area where the the opaque "peel me" sticker was placed on top of the clear plastic layer. Should I do anything about that and if so what tools/products/process would make sense?

Thnx


----------



## Mega Man

If you really want you could soak it in vinegar but it isn't needed. The polish does not help temps


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you really want you could soak it in vinegar but it isn't needed. The polish does not help temps


Ok, what about mildly abrasive polishing compounds does that help any?

Hmmm, I was just reading about lapping
https://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/air,/cooling/water/39
I think i have 3000 grit stuff somewhere in my garage?


----------



## Mega Man

None of that will help. Corrosion is visible but does not affect heat transfer. Lapping is a poor idea imo most blocks/heatsinks are either concave or convex ( i always forget which but either way it doesnt matter ) * slightly * either way they do that so that the hs mates better when pressure is applied lapping destroys that. some people like that. i dont and as most if not all manufactures do this they do this for a reason not to make us "lap" the hs,

why do you feel like there is a need to do this is a better question imo


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> None of that will help. Corrosion is visible but does not affect heat transfer. Lapping is a poor idea imo most blocks/heatsinks are either concave or convex ( i always forget which but either way it doesnt matter ) * slightly * either way they do that so that the hs mates better when pressure is applied lapping destroys that. some people like that. i dont and as most if not all manufactures do this they do this for a reason not to make us "lap" the hs,
> 
> why do you feel like there is a need to do this is a better question imo


Thnx for replying and good question.

I'm not sure if the temps i'm seeing are expected given the clock rate and voltage i'm using, they might be a little on the high side. So I was looking for things that might explain slightly higher than expected temps. A sloppy mounting job is my number one explanation, the discoloration on the block is another possible explanation, the tim that comes in the box is another possibility. How does it compare to gelid gc extreme or arctic mx4? I'm going to try a remount and I'm thinking about what else I could do while its off.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Thnx for replying and good question.
> 
> I'm not sure if the temps i'm seeing are expected given the clock rate and voltage i'm using, they might be a little on the high side. So I was looking for things that might explain slightly higher than expected temps. A sloppy mounting job is my number one explanation, the discoloration on the block is another possible explanation, the tim that comes in the box is another possibility. How does it compare to gelid gc extreme or arctic mx4? I'm going to try a remount and I'm thinking about what else I could do while its off.


This guy did a comparison.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1536929/stock-thermal-paste-vs-gelid-extreme-on-a-h240x#post_24018503


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> This guy did a comparison.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1536929/stock-thermal-paste-vs-gelid-extreme-on-a-h240x#post_24018503


Perfect... thnx! His comparisons are funny, only the first two are directly comparable to one another, the others all have more than one variable changing between them. Looks like gelid did a little better, about 2c.


----------



## Velathawen

Can you guys help me confirm if I am having the cracked glass issue that others have been reporting?





As you can see the first two are the original condition (clean glass, no crack) and the last one is what my h240x current looks like, I have used yellow to try to guide your eyes along the crack. It's on the res itself and not on the external screen.

Quite a bummer given my first unit's pump died within 3 days and this unit hasn't even reached 3 months of use yet. The good news is that the pump itself is working perfectly fine; temps are good and the pump itself is incredibly quiet still.

Thanks for the input as always!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Can you guys help me confirm if I am having the cracked glass issue that others have been reporting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the first two are the original condition (clean glass, no crack) and the last one is what my h240x current looks like, I have used yellow to try to guide your eyes along the crack. It's on the res itself and not on the external screen.
> 
> Quite a bummer given my first unit's pump died within 3 days and this unit hasn't even reached 3 months of use yet. The good news is that the pump itself is working perfectly fine; temps are good and the pump itself is incredibly quiet still.
> 
> Thanks for the input as always!


the cracked acrylic from the other posts is based on the bleed screw which your unit doesn't have...that said that could be a scratch or a crack but it's hard to tell with all the discoloration....definitely could use a proper flush and refill...I can't say that I've seen one crack that way in this thread yet....if you take a bright flashlight and hold it at steep angles you may be able to tell if it's a crack or simply a scratch with buildup in it as a crack you will be able to see the glare in the crack itself...it will be much brighter and you can see if it's surface or allway through


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> It's on the res itself and not on the external screen.


Did you take the picture through a case window? Not quite sure what you mean by 'external screen'. As had been stated the crack was normally related to the bleed screw that used to be in window but that design has now changed and you do not have the old one. Those circular patterns look reminiscent of fungal growths but I would find that surprising after 3 months.


----------



## Velathawen

Negatory!

All the pictures taken are with the side panel of my R5 removed and the camera right along the side of the H240-X.

I find it really odd that I happen to have the awesome luck of getting the only 2 dud units at this store though since all in all we went through 4 units from the same shop, 2 of them are in friend's computers and neither of them have any problems thus far. LIke I said in my initial post the unit itself still performs just it has this stuff on the side window + the hints of a crack starting to form.


----------



## Danbeme32

I had the same thing happen to me. A small crack on the bottom right hand corner and it had no bleed screw. I too had to send my unit back twice for fail pump..but shifted took care of it..I just got mine back like a week ago too..


----------



## Velathawen

I'm really hoping it's just a flush the loop thing, local distributors responsible for RMA are terrible and I really don't want to deal with them again.


----------



## paskowitz

Are their any good video/audio examples of what the H220/240-X pump sounds like normally? My phone mic is terrible, otherwise I would post a vid of mine. It doesn't sound violent, but it is pretty noticeable. Has anyone experimented with putty sound deadening foam around the pump? Bad/useless idea?


----------



## chrisaix

Hi, i recently purchased a h240x and after about 3 days of normal use the brown particles/dye inside the reservoir wont disappear. What could be the issue here? Should i have a replacement?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisaix*
> 
> Hi, i recently purchased a h240x and after about 3 days of normal use the brown particles/dye inside the reservoir wont disappear. What could be the issue here? Should i have a replacement?


Looks like algae maybe pm the rep in this thread or email swiftech about it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Are their any good video/audio examples of what the H220/240-X pump sounds like normally? My phone mic is terrible, otherwise I would post a vid of mine. It doesn't sound violent, but it is pretty noticeable. Has anyone experimented with putty sound deadening foam around the pump? Bad/useless idea?


Use your wireless headset mic. Mine rises up above background noise at full speed but at slower speeds I don't notice it.


----------



## reechings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Are their any good video/audio examples of what the H220/240-X pump sounds like normally? My phone mic is terrible, otherwise I would post a vid of mine. It doesn't sound violent, but it is pretty noticeable. Has anyone experimented with putty sound deadening foam around the pump? Bad/useless idea?


Are you using the water pump header on your motherboard? On my Asus VIII Hero, the pump was set to 100% no matter what CPU temp which made it noticeable until I changed the setting in the BIOS.


----------



## rfarmer

I have mine set on the pwm splitter, never notice it.


----------



## Dry Bonez

I personally love my H220X and just wanna say as an early purchaser(1st batch) ,i would recommend this and mine is still going as i bought it when it launched.

Also, why when doing benchmarks on cpus and stuff, this AIO cooler is never mentioned? I thought this was a top tier cooler? I would love to se benchmarks against others and see where we stand. I know there were graphs when this first released, but now on any new benchmark comparisons, this brand is not even a factor or anything. So how well does this stand next to others an a Noctua NH D15?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I personally love my H220X and just wanna say as an early purchaser(1st batch) ,i would recommend this and mine is still going as i bought it when it launched.
> 
> Also, why when doing benchmarks on cpus and stuff, this AIO cooler is never mentioned? I thought this was a top tier cooler? I would love to se benchmarks against others and see where we stand. I know there were graphs when this first released, but now on any new benchmark comparisons, this brand is not even a factor or anything. So how well does this stand next to others an a Noctua NH D15?


Good question. I have the H240X and it is awesome so far. I remember seeing comparisons with various other coolers when I first purchased it but not in the last few months or so. Why is that?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I personally love my H220X and just wanna say as an early purchaser(1st batch) ,i would recommend this and mine is still going as i bought it when it launched.
> 
> Also, why when doing benchmarks on cpus and stuff, this AIO cooler is never mentioned? I thought this was a top tier cooler? I would love to se benchmarks against others and see where we stand. I know there were graphs when this first released, but now on any new benchmark comparisons, this brand is not even a factor or anything. So how well does this stand next to others an a Noctua NH D15?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Good question. I have the H240X and it is awesome so far. I remember seeing comparisons with various other coolers when I first purchased it but not in the last few months or so. Why is that?


I included the H220-X and H240-X as comparison units in all AiO reviews at HTL. It would be kind of ridiculous not to, given that they are the best performing units on the market.

But....some sites do have advertising/sponsorship dollars to worry about....so, it just might not be in their best interest to point that out.


----------



## Velathawen

You'll notice a lot of reviews cherry pick models to compare against, have to maintain relationships if you want to keep getting units to review


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah I used to have a Corsair h105, which is a highly rated AIO, but compared to my H220-X, there is no comparison. The Swiftech is a much higher quality product. The ability to expand the loop is a huge bonus for Swiftech.


----------



## michael-ocn

If you want an AIO, its either a swiftech or a predator, and the swiftech trounces the predator on price.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> If you want an AIO, its either a swiftech or a predator, and the swiftech trounces the predator on price.


yes I like the predators design a lot better it's much more streamlined but imo the swiftech pump is stronger and the price difference is quite a lot...that said some people buy things fit different reasons...back in the day (15 years ago) I bought a ton of rca products...they never were the best if anything but they were acceptable...the selling point for me was they had a repair shop about 10 minutes from my house the first time I had a problem with a tv it was fixed within 24 hours...while swiftechs customer service nasty never have that kind of turn around understanding they are small but largely fair in their warranty and rma practices is a great selling point as well


----------



## chrisaix

Ive got my h240x replacement, ive got to say i was very pleased with their assistance and support. I have it previously setup up as an exhaust on the top of my h440 and now i decided setup it as an intake in the front, well it was not easy cause i have to setup my hard disk upside down ont the bottom cage and have to bend it a little to accomodate the radiator. And now my idle temps are around 28-31c and 48-50c and full load on stock 5820k, 4-7c improvement from my previous setup, my ambient is around 28-30, its very hot here in my country. And for the fan setup i push pull with the stock swiftech fans and sp140 for another push, as for the exhaust ive got 2 sp140 at the top and 1 sp140 at the back. Im very pleased with the temps and now its time for some overclocking.









Some pics


----------



## deehoC

Well I'm finally going to replace the tubing/fittings/coolant on my H240-X in preparation for adding a GPU into the loop sometime next month. In the meantime I was wondering if anyone could give me a bit of advice here regarding which type of fittings would be most beneficial for routing tubes cleanly.

The stock fittings on the kit swivel and are angled slightly so I'm guessing I should get 2 of these (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-45-g1-4-nickel-1) for the waterblock and 2 more for the pump or would these (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-2-45-g1-4-black-nickel) work better? It'll be top mounted in an Enthoo Luxe if that info helps at all.


----------



## mcnumpty23

heres my 240x expanded to the gpu and couple of extra reservoirs as I found filling up through the port on the end of the h240x to be a bit of a pain

also added a 240mm radiator

sorry for quality but only had phone and couldn't adjust the phone camera enough to cope wth the leds


----------



## v1ral

What fans are people upgrading to that are pwm?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> What fans are people upgrading to that are pwm?


Upgrading the fans is more difficult than you probably think. The Helix are excellent performers on rads. There are plenty of PWM fans out there that are lateral moves, but you will be hard pressed to find one that will make a performance difference at similar noise levels.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Upgrading the fans is more difficult than you probably think. The Helix are excellent performers on rads. There are plenty of PWM fans out there that are lateral moves, but you will be hard pressed to find one that will make a performance difference at similar noise levels.


And price to performance as well, I do agree.

I am rocking an Air 540 with a complete Helix fan change over, 5 120mm pwm and 1 140mm pwm, the noise isn't bad nor is the amount of air I feel, but I wonder what people use as an "upgrade".
I used to use High speed yate loon on 3-pin fan splitters plugged directly to my PSU they worked well, but at that time I didn't mind the noise. I still don't mind then noise.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> What fans are people upgrading to that are pwm?


Non for me as the supllied Helix fans are almost best in class. Plus due to the design of the H220-x you don't need high pressure fans for good performance.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am getting ready to add my first loop mod to my H-240X
Below is my shopping list. I would appreciate it if someone could look over it and ensure I have all the right parts. Feel free to make recommendations and changes (especially if what you recommend is cheaper). Thanks in advance.

XPSC Block I already have this.
Either blue UV tubing or the clear tubing
Hose cutter
Either this coolant or this one
Silver coil
Funnel
Compression fittings
I also need suggestions for angled fittings and was thinking about these or these

I believe I could save more money by just getting a 10' length of clear tubing but I want to see what you all suggest before I change anything on this list. I am going with black chrome for my fittings and blue for the added color of my build. There have been some good looking blue fittings that I was thinking of but I think I want more black chrome that anything. I am also thinking of going with distilled water and adding a UV additive.

You can see my system in my sig.

Let me know if I am missing anything.

Edit: If anyone thinks I should add a reservoir please make recommendations.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!


----------



## Madmaxneo

There seems to be no way to edit the above post so I have to add a new one. First please forgive the typos in my list above. Also note that I already have the XPSC block posted above.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There seems to be no way to edit the above post so I have to add a new one. First please forgive the typos in my list above. Also note that I already have the XPSC block posted above.


the edit button looks like a pencil...it's in the middle bottom of the post if you're on mobile...if your on pc it's bottom left


----------



## Death2Consoles

So I've been running my H240x since September of this year... No issues with it thus far BUT today when I was cleaning my case I noticed some funky white gunk wiggling around in my pump impeller.

Here's a video:




I purchased it from PerformancePCs.com but I'm not sure it's something I need to RMA it for. Who should I contact about trying to remedy the issue without voiding my warranty?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the edit button looks like a pencil...it's in the middle bottom of the post if you're on mobile...if your on pc it's bottom left


The pencil was not there earlier it was just the flag. Either way I am posting it again after this post because I know how it can get lost in all of the intervening posts.....


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am getting ready to add my first loop mod to my H-240X
Below is my shopping list. I would appreciate it if someone could look over it and ensure I have all the right parts. Feel free to make recommendations and changes (especially if what you recommend is cheaper). Thanks in advance.

XPSC Block I already have this.
Either blue UV tubing or the clear tubing
Hose cutter
Either this coolant or this one
Silver coil
Funnel
Compression fittings
I also need suggestions for angled fittings and was thinking about these or these

I believe I could save more money by just getting a 10' length of clear tubing but I want to see what you all suggest before I change anything on this list. I am going with black chrome for my fittings and blue for the added color of my build. There have been some good looking blue fittings that I was thinking of but I think I want more black chrome that anything. I am also thinking of going with distilled water and adding a UV additive.

You can see my system in my sig.

Let me know if I am missing anything.

Edit: If anyone thinks I should add a reservoir please make recommendations.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> What fans are people upgrading to that are pwm?


The helix fans are pretty good imho. I think the NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM might be an upgrade, a little more quiet.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The helix fans are pretty good imho. I think the NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM might be an upgrade, a little more quiet.


I ran that test a few months ago. Results were essentially a total wash in both performance and noise.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I ran that test a few months ago. Results were essentially a total wash in both performance and noise.


surprising given the 1500 vs 1700 top speeds?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I personally love my H220X and just wanna say as an early purchaser(1st batch) ,i would recommend this and mine is still going as i bought it when it launched.


I have the first H240x that was sold retail (technically not sold b/c they gifted it as a celebration of the unit going on sale) and mine's fine... though I don't leave my PC on when I'm not using it except for when I did some folding earlier in the year.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I have the first H240x that was sold retail (technically not sold b/c they gifted it as a celebration of the unit going on sale) and mine's fine... though I don't leave my PC on when I'm not using it except for when I did some folding earlier in the year.


I think mine was one of the first batches and it's still going strong..only issue I've had is the cracking bleed screw hole...I also leave my pc on only when I'm on it..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> What fans are people upgrading to that are pwm?
> 
> 
> 
> Upgrading the fans is more difficult than you probably think. The Helix are excellent performers on rads. There are plenty of PWM fans out there that are lateral moves, but you will be hard pressed to find one that will make a performance difference at similar noise levels.
Click to expand...

For silence I agree. Otherwise my ap30s are far better ( especially at 4250 rpm )

As to upgrades I would buy some pwm gentle typhoons
http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html?utm_source=Performance+PCs+Newsletter&utm_campaign=a9d4b5de05-Thanksgiving2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9db31080ae-a9d4b5de05-304138674&mc_cid=a9d4b5de05&mc_eid=169ee6a7ba

Not cheap but worth it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> For silence I agree. Otherwise my ap30s are far better ( especially at 4250 rpm )
> 
> As to upgrades I would buy some pwm gentle typhoons
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-550-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition-pwm.html?utm_source=Performance+PCs+Newsletter&utm_campaign=a9d4b5de05-Thanksgiving2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9db31080ae-a9d4b5de05-304138674&mc_cid=a9d4b5de05&mc_eid=169ee6a7ba
> 
> Not cheap but worth it


The GT are distinctly a better fan, but in this case it's $40+ to possibly gain a degree or two with a slightly better noise profile. Depends on what that is worth to you.


----------



## ilmio81

gentlemen greetings
I have a Swiftech H220 and since a bit of time it starts to make a noise so bad that I have to turn off your PC.
Reading around I learned that the problem of the pump is common and because of I can not find the invoice and can not remember whether or not the 3-year warranty have passed, I'd like to know if there is a way to know if the product warranty is still valid, thanks


----------



## Mx26

Hello,
So I've had my h220x(the old model with the bleeding screw) for two months now, very happy with the performance so far but I've been reading about the issues with the bleeding screw(mostly the cracked window) and I'm kinda worried because I bought it from a reseller here in mexico and RMA'ing it will be a bit of a hassle.

Is this a common issue with the old model units?
I'll end up with the cracked window/leak issue or there's some hope that this doesn't happen to me







?

Thanks.


----------



## ssgtnubb

It is more of an issue related to the temperature the unit got in transition because of temperature from Swiftech to the retailer, the colder the trip the more likely a crack could form in time. You can order a new cover directly from Swifttech, they are 5 bucks each http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mx26*
> 
> Hello,
> So I've had my h220x(the old model with the bleeding screw) for two months now, very happy with the performance so far but I've been reading about the issues with the bleeding screw(mostly the cracked window) and I'm kinda worried because I bought it from a reseller here in mexico and RMA'ing it will be a bit of a hassle.
> 
> Is this a common issue with the old model units?
> I'll end up with the cracked window/leak issue or there's some hope that this doesn't happen to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Thanks.


I had the same issue with mine. If you can e-mail them or call they might send you one for free as they did to me( they let me pick a color too) plus they included a funnel with a piece of tube with a barb fitting so that I can refill it again. Plus they send me a bottle of concentrated coolant..

So give it a try..


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilmio81*
> 
> gentlemen greetings
> I have a Swiftech H220 and since a bit of time it starts to make a noise so bad that I have to turn off your PC.
> Reading around I learned that the problem of the pump is common and because of I can not find the invoice and can not remember whether or not the 3-year warranty have passed, I'd like to know if there is a way to know if the product warranty is still valid, thanks


You should be more than OK on warranty then. The original H220 isn't quite 3 years old yet. I got mine back in April of 2013. It was one of the first shipments through Newegg.


----------



## ilmio81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> You should be more than OK on warranty then. The original H220 isn't quite 3 years old yet. I got mine back in April of 2013. It was one of the first shipments through Newegg.


thanks man


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> It is more of an issue related to the temperature the unit got in transition because of temperature from Swiftech to the retailer, the colder the trip the more likely a crack could form in time. You can order a new cover directly from Swifttech, they are 5 bucks each http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx


the cold did cause a lot of issue with expansion and contraction around that area...however the cold wasnt the only issue anytime you drill a hole in acrylic that thin you open it up for this issue to happen...also some of the crack people are getting are from the mounting area of the window...I'm thinking it's just the repeated expansion and contraction from heating and cooling cycles....it seems like the people who leave their pcs on all the time have less of a likelyhood for this...at least from the people I've seen post here...considering most people noticed the leak or crack when they "turned on" the pc....I did the same with mine...that said mine doesn't leak and if it did leak id be glad it wasn't on at the time


----------



## Mx26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> It is more of an issue related to the temperature the unit got in transition because of temperature from Swiftech to the retailer, the colder the trip the more likely a crack could form in time. You can order a new cover directly from Swifttech, they are 5 bucks each http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx


Thanks for the link, do they ship internationally? like i said my unit its still up and running withouth any issues so far but it will be cool to buy a red window to match my build









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I had the same issue with mine. If you can e-mail them or call they might send you one for free as they did to me( they let me pick a color too) plus they included a funnel with a piece of tube with a barb fitting so that I can refill it again. Plus they send me a bottle of concentrated coolant..
> 
> So give it a try..


My reservoir window it's still intact it's just that I'm a bit paranoid about it, but hopefully this doesn't happen to me.

Thanks everyone


----------



## benbenkr

Ok, flushing my H240x after about a year of usage. Damn is it a stubborn donkey to flush!
There's no way to fully clean the acrylic window without actually dismantling it and wiping it from inside.









Will get an extra pump + res because I'm not going to go through the trouble of filling the whole loop again with the fillport on the H240x.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benbenkr*
> 
> Ok, flushing my H240x after about a year of usage. Damn is it a stubborn donkey to flush!
> There's no way to fully clean the acrylic window without actually dismantling it and wiping it from inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will get an extra pump + res because I'm not going to go through the trouble of filling the whole loop again with the fillport on the H240x.


I'm years away from having to do this yet, but would just an extra res without an extra pump make refilling any easier?


----------



## LezOU

well, you'll have to make sure that your extra res is higher than the X240 fillport







(leaning the case over helps sometimes )


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> well, you'll have to make sure that your extra res is higher than the X240 fillport
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (leaning the case over helps sometimes )


Hmmm... when the time comes I'll just pull it from the case, drain and refill, then put it back in. I might have to do that 3 times total for the lifetime of the system... no big deal.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LezOU*
> 
> well, you'll have to make sure that your extra res is higher than the X240 fillport
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (leaning the case over helps sometimes )


it doesn't have to be higher than the fillport for filling but it helps with bleeding excess air...if you only run the pump connected to the res and nothing else and don't let it run low this elevates air entry and it will require less bleeding..if it's higher than the fillport it's better but it will still help tremendously even if it's lower...just so you don't have to fight the fillport and air there...if you aren't going to expand to gpu it's just as easy to pull the unit and refill..if it's expanded then extra res and pump helps a lot


----------



## Madmaxneo

Is there an adapter I need when adding to my H240X loop?
I will be adding the typical 3/8 inner diameter with 5/8 outer diameter tubing and a friend told me they heard there was a special adapter needed for the pump for the compression fittings when doing this...


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there an adapter I need when adding to my H240X loop?
> I will be adding the typical 3/8 inner diameter with 5/8 outer diameter tubing and a friend told me they heard there was a special adapter needed for the pump for the compression fittings when doing this...


If you will be using the same 3/8 x 5/8 size tubing as the stock unit uses you will be fine just adding compression fittings as is if I'm not mistaken.

It's only if you plan to deviate from 3/8 x 5/8 that you need to purchase this http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there an adapter I need when adding to my H240X loop?
> I will be adding the typical 3/8 inner diameter with 5/8 outer diameter tubing and a friend told me they heard there was a special adapter needed for the pump for the compression fittings when doing this...


If you are using compression fittings on the pump you will need the adapter listed above, if you use the fitting included with the H240-X you won't. The adapter turns the pump fitting into a standard G1/4.


----------



## SkyFred

Hey guys, bad news here : my H220-X started to leak yesterday after 2 months of use









I got back home yesterday night, and found a little puddle of coolant in the bottom of my case.
I immediately turned off my rig (which was folding), fortunately it didn't leaked on any component, the coolant dripped right before my GPU.

The H220-X is out of my case now, I switched back from 4.5GHz OC to stock CPU settings with the stock cooler.

I didn't and I won't have much time next week to investigate, but at first glance the leak came from the res, on the left edge of the acryclic window.
My window doesn't look cracked, the coolant seems to be leaking between the res body and the acrylic window.

I'll post a picture as soon as I get the time to take one, and maybe I'll run the unit on my retired corsair PSU to spot the leak point.

I sent a return request to the Amazon seller, we'll see what will happen next...


----------



## Tim Drake

Can anybody estimate how my temps will be with a H320 on my i5 4670k with ambient temps of around 12c?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Can anybody estimate how my temps will be with a H320 on my i5 4670k with ambient temps of around 12c?


Stock speeds or is it overclocked? Delidded?

I'd say about 60C with stock voltage but that's a guess because I don't run processors at stock voltage







This is assuming you're not running AVX instructions.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Stock speeds or is it overclocked? Delidded?
> 
> I'd say about 60C with stock voltage but that's a guess because I don't run processors at stock voltage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is assuming you're not running AVX instructions.


It will be delidded either shortly before or after I receive the H320 and it will probably be at around 1.3/1.35v at 4.6/4.7GHz


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Hey guys, bad news here : my H220-X started to leak yesterday after 2 months of use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got back home yesterday night, and found a little puddle of coolant in the bottom of my case.
> I immediately turned off my rig (which was folding), fortunately it didn't leaked on any component, the coolant dripped right before my GPU.
> 
> The H220-X is out of my case now, I switched back from 4.5GHz OC to stock CPU settings with the stock cooler.
> 
> I didn't and I won't have much time next week to investigate, but at first glance the leak came from the res, on the left edge of the acryclic window.
> My window doesn't look cracked, the coolant seems to be leaking between the res body and the acrylic window.
> 
> I'll post a picture as soon as I get the time to take one, and maybe I'll run the unit on my retired corsair PSU to spot the leak point.
> 
> I sent a return request to the Amazon seller, we'll see what will happen next...


Please contact me at [email protected] so I can help you to solve this issue.


----------



## pillowsack

Hey guys, I got a H220-X a week ago at microcenter.

I've read that the Apogee XL block is not that good at applying pressure to the CPU, which I've noticed. When my CPU gets a load it SPIKES really fast and the top temps can go 80+ even with just 4.2ghz at 1.2v. Something doesn't seem right....

I was wondering if anyone has advice for me? I thought maybe there is an after market retention set I could get, such as screws and a plate that go over it. Don't care that much for the lights, but I kinda do.

I have a Swiftech 320 radiator coming in the mail, a GPU block, and a reservoir. Wanna remount the CPU and get it right this time.

If anyone had a ghetto mod to recommend, please do. I was going to try bending the socket mount tabs on the water block up, so that it applies more down pressure. I lapped my CPU maybe less than a milimeter, just wanted it to show copper and be flat.

Thanks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pillowsack*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a H220-X a week ago at microcenter.
> 
> I've read that the Apogee XL block is not that good at applying pressure to the CPU, which I've noticed. When my CPU gets a load it SPIKES really fast and the top temps can go 80+ even with just 4.2ghz at 1.2v. Something doesn't seem right....
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has advice for me? I thought maybe there is an after market retention set I could get, such as screws and a plate that go over it. Don't care that much for the lights, but I kinda do.
> 
> I have a Swiftech 320 radiator coming in the mail, a GPU block, and a reservoir. Wanna remount the CPU and get it right this time.
> 
> If anyone had a ghetto mod to recommend, please do. I was going to try bending the socket mount tabs on the water block up, so that it applies more down pressure. I lapped my CPU maybe less than a milimeter, just wanted it to show copper and be flat.
> 
> Thanks


biggest thing with mount is that you apply pressure evenly....and you use the right amount of paste...the proper way for mounting is to attach the screws just barely then tighten half a turn or less alternating corners in an a pattern until tightened fully...this reduces chance of air bubbles or bad spread on tim...if there is a better backplate that would be preferred....I noticed the Intel mounting solution seemed kind of lax...the amd solution uses the motherboards default backplate which is pretty robust on most board


----------



## paskowitz

Quick question, is a faint amount of coolant smell normal? I don't see any leaks nor has my water level lowered... but I definitely smell coolant when I put my nose near my case. This a month after installation.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pillowsack*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a H220-X a week ago at microcenter.
> 
> I've read that the Apogee XL block is not that good at applying pressure to the CPU, which I've noticed. When my CPU gets a load it SPIKES really fast and the top temps can go 80+ even with just 4.2ghz at 1.2v. Something doesn't seem right....
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has advice for me? I thought maybe there is an after market retention set I could get, such as screws and a plate that go over it. Don't care that much for the lights, but I kinda do.
> 
> I have a Swiftech 320 radiator coming in the mail, a GPU block, and a reservoir. Wanna remount the CPU and get it right this time.
> 
> If anyone had a ghetto mod to recommend, please do. I was going to try bending the socket mount tabs on the water block up, so that it applies more down pressure. I lapped my CPU maybe less than a milimeter, just wanted it to show copper and be flat.
> 
> Thanks


actually most consider swiftech to have one of the best mounting solutions out. ( I can link to Martin stating this )as it allows for no over tightening and equal pressure every time


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick question, is a faint amount of coolant smell normal? I don't see any leaks nor has my water level lowered... but I definitely smell coolant when I put my nose near my case. This a month after installation.


Given that the coolant is essentially odorless, I would think you are smelling something else.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Given that the coolant is essentially odorless, I would think you are smelling something else.


I should have mentioned I am using EK premix ekcoolant which does have a smell. That being said, it could be residue from minor spillage on the radiators, which is now aerating.


----------



## Kokumotsu

i have a question about the H240x
im wanting to change out the tubing on it but i started thinking, is it possible to remove the pump from the H240x res and install it like a normally because im wanting to expand my loop and also making my rad and fans fit in my R4 (atm my fans are externally installed and it gets noisy) so i was just wanting to do ao complete upgrade to almost everything on it except the pump and cpu block. is it possible to remove it?
also what size would i need for tubing 3/8x5/8 if i read the specs correctly?


----------



## white owl

Any one used one of these with an EK naked kit?


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> actually most consider swiftech to have one of the best mounting solutions out. ( I can link to Martin stating this )as it allows for no over tightening and equal pressure every time


swiftech has the worst mounting for the AMD sockets. lol


----------



## tbone8ty

added a 290x to my loop









http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151205_141228_zpsgvzpcofb.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151205_141251_zpsernnyicn.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151206_175257_zps785xbafe.jpg.html

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151206_175309_zpsr1lcocyi.jpg.html

the swiftech h220x pump seems to handle it well! temps are solid.

i know my tube routing is probably not optimum, but my case is a little weird.

any tips welcome


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> added a 290x to my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151205_141228_zpsgvzpcofb.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151205_141251_zpsernnyicn.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151206_175257_zps785xbafe.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20151206_175309_zpsr1lcocyi.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> the swiftech h220x pump seems to handle it well! temps are solid.
> 
> i know my tube routing is probably not optimum, but my case is a little weird.
> 
> any tips welcome


Looks good, I added a gpu block and 120mm rad to my H220-X too. Works really good, my temps are great.That EK is a nice looking block. What fittings do you have on the gpu block?


----------



## tbone8ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, I added a gpu block and 120mm rad to my H220-X too. Works really good, my temps are great.That EK is a nice looking block. What fittings do you have on the gpu block?


the fittings that were on the h220x cpu water block









yeah i really didn't need to add the Res but it looked cool and i thought maybe it would help with bleeding the air out.


----------



## pillowsack

Added a reservoir and 3 x 120MM rad today. I went for the swift-tech 320XP radiator cause reviewers and tests say it's high flow. Would rather not have anything hurt this 6W pump.

Adding my 390 in to the loop soon, waiting on the block.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello guys









I have some question about those beast coolers

I'm thinking about buy one to cool my cpu + gpu ( 5820k + gtx 970 full rig in sig ) the H240X as I like 280m rad but my question about the pump capable to add another 240/140m rad to the loop ?

what is the best H240X for 150$ + 80$ (extra rad) + gpu block 80$ = 310$ Or my current H100i + another small AIO for the gpu ?

I know the full water block is much better than AIO on the gpu but my fear about the pump on the H240X

also when we extended those AIO we void the warranty ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some question about those beast coolers
> 
> I'm thinking about buy one to cool my cpu + gpu ( 5820k + gtx 970 full rig in sig ) the H240X as I like 280m rad but my question about the pump capable to add another 240/140m rad to the loop ?
> 
> what is the best H240X for 150$ + 80$ (extra rad) + gpu block 80$ = 310$ Or my current H100i + another small AIO for the gpu ?
> 
> I know the full water block is much better than AIO on the gpu but my fear about the pump on the H240X
> 
> also when we extended those AIO we void the warranty ?


The pump on the H240-X (and H220-X) has over 1gpm flow and over 2m of head pressure. This is more than enough for two added blocks and several added radiators. Blocks are the restrictive components in a loop, not rads. Adding one block and one rad will not even make the pump break a sweat.

There is no comparison between the H240-X with an additional rad and GPU block and using CLCs. Which is better is not even debatable.

Swiftech warranties the unit even if expanded, but there are some limitations that are laid out (i.e. no nano-fluids or Aurora) that are known to be damaging. As long as you keep it a straightforward expansion, there are no worries.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump on the H240-X (and H220-X) has over 1gpm flow and over 2m of head pressure. This is more than enough for two added blocks and several added radiators. Blocks are the restrictive components in a loop, not rads. Adding one block and one rad will not even make the pump break a sweat.
> 
> There is no comparison between the H240-X with an additional rad and GPU block and using CLCs. Which is better is not even debatable.
> 
> Swiftech warranties the unit even if expanded, but there are some limitations that are laid out (i.e. no nano-fluids or Aurora) that are known to be damaging. As long as you keep it a straightforward expansion, there are no worries.


Thanks + rep


----------



## Laithan

Hi all, looking for some advice on this issue.

I have an *H240-x* with just the CPU block (so this is a stock unit, hasn't been expanded). I use it just for my CPU and I have another loop for GPUs. It is only a little over a year old, maybe 1.5 years max. It has worked flawlessly until recently. I did recently work on my PC (on my other loop) but I didn't do anything with the H240-x nor did I remove the CPU block (coincidence?).

I started to notice temp spikes on the CPU when under load. I am talking about some significant spikes too sometimes like 5C-10C and they are sometimes causing me to have some unstability.

I decided to monitor this a bit more and I am definitely seeing temp spikes and they *are not corresponding to increased CPU load.* Sometimes it would jump up when exiting a game which I also thought was strange since it is closing everything I see no reason why my CPU would heat up at this point.

I then decided to monitor the CPU temps while @ idle. I left the PC with nothing open and just let it monitor the CPU temps. I am seeing CPU temp spikes even when @ idle (although they aren't as bad it).

Here is a screenshot *@ idle across my 4 cores showing temp spikes without CPU load*.
Green bar is CPU load red is temp.


*Could this be a sign the pump is failing? Thermal paste breakdown? Debris stuck in block?*

I thought it was *also* interesting that one of my cores didn't spike but the other 3 did.

I was thinking I could remove the block and re-apply Tuniq TX4 but I don't know why the paste would all of a sudden be an issue when it has been working just fine all this time (not like I just applied it).
Does Tuniq TX4 break down fast maybe? I wouldn't expect that soon but this is the first time I used it also...

I can also grab a screenshot when under load but I thought measuring @ idle might be the best way to demonstrate what is occurring. I am assuming others don't see this @ idle.

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Hi all, looking for some advice on this issue.
> 
> H240-x with just the CPU block (so this is a stock unit, hasn't been expanded). I use it just for my CPU and I have another loop for GPUs. It is only a little over a year old, maybe 1.5 years max. It has worked flawlessly until recently. I did recently work on my PC (on my other loop) but I didn't do anything with the H240-x nor did I remove the CPU block.
> 
> I started to notice temp spikes on the CPU when under load. I am talking about some significant spikes too sometimes like 5C-10C and they are sometimes causing me to have some unstability.
> 
> I decided to monitor this a bit more and I am definitely seeing temp spikes and they are not corresponding to increased CPU load. Sometimes it would jump up when exiting a game which I also thought was strange since it is closing everything I see no reason why my CPU would heat up at this point.
> 
> I then decided to monitor the CPU temps while @ idle. I left the PC with nothing open and just let it monitor the CPU temps. I am seeing CPU temp spikes even when @ idle (although they aren't as bad it).
> 
> Here is a screenshot @ idle across my 4 cores showing temp spikes without CPU load.
> Green bar is CPU load red is temp.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be a sign the pump is failing? Thermal paste breakdown? Debris stuck in block?
> 
> I thought it was also interesting that one of my cores didn't spike but the other 3 did.
> 
> I was thinking I could remove the block and re-apply Tuniq TX4 but I don't know why the paste would all of a sudden be an issue when it has been working just fine all this time (not like I just applied it).
> Does Tuniq TX4 break down fast maybe? I wouldn't expect that soon but this is the first time I used it also...
> 
> I can also grab a screenshot when under load but I thought measuring @ idle might be the best way to demonstrate what is occurring. I am assuming others don't see this @ idle.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!


First thing, there is no need for all the size changes. You may not always get responses like that.

I am no expert and just learning myself but the first thing that came to mind is:

What is your idle temp without the spikes?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some question about those beast coolers
> 
> I'm thinking about buy one to cool my cpu + gpu ( 5820k + gtx 970 full rig in sig ) the H240X as I like 280m rad but my question about the pump capable to add another 240/140m rad to the loop ?
> 
> what is the best H240X for 150$ + 80$ (extra rad) + gpu block 80$ = 310$ Or my current H100i + another small AIO for the gpu ?
> 
> I know the full water block is much better than AIO on the gpu but my fear about the pump on the H240X
> 
> also when we extended those AIO we void the warranty ?


I have a H220-X with an additional 120mm rad and gpu block, pump works without a problem. Temps are very good in my system, 30C lower on my gpu than air. Not sure which AIO you were thinking for your 970 but if you were thinking NZXT Kraken they don't work too well with the 970. GPU temps are very good but the Kraken has the fan on the right side of the gpu for vram cooling, the 970 has the vram on the left side of the gpu. I tried the Kraken route and ended up switching to the Swiftech.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laithan*
> 
> Hi all, looking for some advice on this issue.
> 
> I have an *H240-x* with just the CPU block (so this is a stock unit, hasn't been expanded). I use it just for my CPU and I have another loop for GPUs. It is only a little over a year old, maybe 1.5 years max. It has worked flawlessly until recently. I did recently work on my PC (on my other loop) but I didn't do anything with the H240-x nor did I remove the CPU block (coincidence?).
> 
> I started to notice temp spikes on the CPU when under load. I am talking about some significant spikes too sometimes like 5C-10C and they are sometimes causing me to have some unstability.
> 
> I decided to monitor this a bit more and I am definitely seeing temp spikes and they *are not corresponding to increased CPU load.* Sometimes it would jump up when exiting a game which I also thought was strange since it is closing everything I see no reason why my CPU would heat up at this point.
> 
> I then decided to monitor the CPU temps while @ idle. I left the PC with nothing open and just let it monitor the CPU temps. I am seeing CPU temp spikes even when @ idle (although they aren't as bad it).
> 
> Here is a screenshot *@ idle across my 4 cores showing temp spikes without CPU load*.
> Green bar is CPU load red is temp.
> 
> 
> *Could this be a sign the pump is failing? Thermal paste breakdown? Debris stuck in block?*
> 
> I thought it was *also* interesting that one of my cores didn't spike but the other 3 did.
> 
> I was thinking I could remove the block and re-apply Tuniq TX4 but I don't know why the paste would all of a sudden be an issue when it has been working just fine all this time (not like I just applied it).
> Does Tuniq TX4 break down fast maybe? I wouldn't expect that soon but this is the first time I used it also...
> 
> I can also grab a screenshot when under load but I thought measuring @ idle might be the best way to demonstrate what is occurring. I am assuming others don't see this @ idle.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!


The spike looks more like cause by the temperature sensor or the voltage control of your CPU. For any kind of cooler are design for cooling overall the CPU package, not just 1 or 3 cores. You may want check and monitor you OC setting and Vcore.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> The spike looks more like cause by the temperature sensor or the voltage control of your CPU. For any kind of cooler are design for cooling overall the CPU package, not just 1 or 3 cores. You may want check and monitor you OC setting and Vcore.


Looks normal to me. Remember if you have Balanced power plan and all power saving features enabled in BIOS that your CPU is constantly switching between different voltage and frequency states. Jumping to a higher clock and voltage will cause a temp spike even if it's only for 0.1 seconds.

Here is my 4790K on Balanced plan while typing this post (custom loop with Swiftech MCP50X + Jingway DP-600 pumps):



That's a jump from 31C to 49C, perfectly normal. Ambient is 25C and water temp is 27.5C.


----------



## Laithan

I'm going to have to dig into this deeper to figure out what is going on but agree it isn't the pump or block so will change threads. My CPU is an old quad before turbo.
Thanks for the replies!


----------



## Mega Man

The Swiftech Mounting System is the simply the ultimate 2011 mounting system out there by a long shot, prescribed pressure + 1 component easy mount!
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/i7-3930k-cpu-swiftech-apogee-hd/2/

The Apogee XT Revision 1 is a top end performance block, it has the best mounting system tested so far, and subjectively one of the best looking blocks as well. https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/05/16/i7-2600k-cpu-swiftech-apogee-xt-revision-2/3/

The mounting mechanism is a joy to use, all mounting systems should be this easy. No loose parts when mounting the block as compared to competitive kits that require upwards of 20 small washers/springs/loose parts to install.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/12/

i always laugh when people say " it is the worst "

i know you are going to say he talks about the intel mounting system.

swiftech has had the best for a long time. it takes me less then 2 min on average to fully mount a swiftech block, ( apogee or h220/220x ) so i ask, what are you doing wrong?

these examples go through all the blocks martin reviewed.


----------



## tbone8ty

the EK cpu block is the best type ive ever used. so simple and you can load it nice and flat. simple

swiftech h220x cpu block has horrible mounting design. i had to change mounting brackets which was a pain. it hits some of the VRM heatsinks on some mobos. i had to hold the rear mounting bracket in place. i shouldn't have to juggle the back plate while screwing the block in. the foam sticky things don't do shet.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> the EK cpu block is the best type ive ever used. so simple and you can load it nice and flat. simple
> 
> swiftech h220x cpu block has horrible mounting design. i had to change mounting brackets which was a pain. it hits some of the VRM heatsinks on some mobos. i had to hold the rear mounting bracket in place. i shouldn't have to juggle the back plate while screwing the block in. the foam sticky things don't do shet.


Have to agree the Supremacy is super easy to work with. And imo the Apogee is very ugly but beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## Mega Man

again, you shouldnt have to change anything, so what are you doing wrong ?

2 min

all it takes on a bad day


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again, you shouldnt have to change anything, so what are you doing wrong ?
> 
> 2 min
> 
> all it takes on a bad day


He's using AMD.

On Intel it is two minutes on a bad day, but on AMD it is _at least_ two minutes fifty seconds.


----------



## VSG

The mounting bracket on the Apogee XL (as part of the H220-X and others) comes with the mounting gear for Intel LGA 115x socket pre-installed and held in place by circlips. Going to another socket is a pain to be honest.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The mounting bracket on the Apogee XL (as part of the H220-X and others) comes with the mounting gear for Intel LGA 115x socket pre-installed and held in place by circlips. Going to another socket is a pain to be honest.


Hmmm...pop the clips out and put in four screws for AMD. I didn't find it to be a pain at all.


----------



## Mega Man

saame with me i have mounted well over 20 times on amds without issues ! ( swftech mounting, not the h220/220x specifically)


----------



## Tim Drake

I'm completely new to anything custom so how often do I need to refill the rad and how do I do it with no air bubbles?

Also what yellow mix should I buy as well as tubing for my H320? I live in the UK


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm completely new to anything custom so how often do I need to refill the rad and how do I do it with no air bubbles?
> 
> Also what yellow mix should I buy as well as tubing for my H320? I live in the UK


Swiftech pumps don't play well with nano-fluids, use of them will void your warranty. So, your best and safest bet for color is to use colored tubing. If you must have colored fluid, they have recommended Mayhems X1, and I know people have also recommended XSPC EC6/ECX.

As for the Mayhems, we are talking X1 *only*. Not Aurora, not Pastel.

Once the loop is open, you should monitor and refill 1-2 times per year.


----------



## ivoryg37

How durable are the fittings on the h220x? I recently struggle to remove some tubing off of one of the fittings. I was bending it and wiggling to get the tubing off. While doing this it sort of look like the barb was popping out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm completely new to anything custom so how often do I need to refill the rad and how do I do it with no air bubbles?
> 
> Also what yellow mix should I buy as well as tubing for my H320? I live in the UK


sorry for the delay, distilled water and a funnel, and w.e. tool needed to remobed thje fill port, should be either a wrench/flat head or a allen wrench


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech pumps don't play well with nano-fluids, use of them will void your warranty. So, your best and safest bet for color is to use colored tubing. If you must have colored fluid, they have recommended Mayhems X1, and I know people have also recommended XSPC EC6/ECX.
> 
> As for the Mayhems, we are talking X1 *only*. Not Aurora, not Pastel.
> 
> Once the loop is open, you should monitor and refill 1-2 times per year.


What about colored water or something?

Also if I did go for coloured fluid, what would be the effects? Would I have to clean it out more frequently?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry for the delay, distilled water and a funnel, and w.e. tool needed to remobed thje fill port, should be either a wrench/flat head or a allen wrench


Wat..


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> What about colored water or something?
> 
> Also if I did go for coloured fluid, what would be the effects? Would I have to clean it out more frequently?
> Wat..


Mayhems X1 is the easiest option because it includes all inhibitors and anti-corrosives built in. It looks sweet and Mayhems has the best support around in the liquid game. Just make sure you use a quality tubing that doesn't leach plasticizer. Mayhems own tubing or Primoflex Advanced LRT are highly recommended.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Mayhems X1 is the easiest option because it includes all inhibitors and anti-corrosives built in. It looks sweet and Mayhems has the best support around in the liquid game. Just make sure you use a quality tubing that doesn't leach plasticizer. Mayhems own tubing or Primoflex Advanced LRT are highly recommended.


And it will void the warranty, yes?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> And it will void the warranty, yes?


As stated previously - it is the colored fluid recommended by Swiftech. X1 will not void the warranty.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As stated previously - it is the colored fluid recommended by Swiftech. X1 will not void the warranty.


Awesome! Shame the x1 yellow isnt the exact yellow I wanted









Pastel looked so perfect :'(


----------



## M3TAl

Wonder what I'm going to do with this Pastel Extreme and two MCP50X's... Used to run original Pastel over a year ago with a Jingway pump and XSPC pump, no issues pump wise.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wonder what I'm going to do with this Pastel Extreme and two MCP50X's... Used to run original Pastel over a year ago with a Jingway pump and XSPC pump, no issues pump wise.


they never said you cant run it if you dont want warranty and dont mind dissasembling and cleaning out the deposits often... yeah its not worth it honestly







mcp50x is a great pump though and with two... now youre cooking with water...


----------



## M3TAl

Adding a second MCP50X because the Jingway is starting to make clicking noises. I prefer to run two just for redundancy and low noise (run both very low RPM).

Original Pastel never deposited anything in my loop, the nanoparticles are 40nm...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Adding a second MCP50X because the Jingway is starting to make clicking noises. I prefer to run two just for redundancy and low noise (run both very low RPM).
> 
> Original Pastel never deposited anything in my loop, the nanoparticles are 40nm...


I think I'm the exception in these forums with my practices...I run everything flat out 100 percent even if I know it could be ran lower with minimal impact...thus is probably why I don't have a fast car...I'd always be fixing things I broke running it like I stole it lol..I'm actually a conservative driver but the few times I've driven something with stump ive found myself speeding without realizing it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Original Pastel never deposited anything in my loop, the nanoparticles are 40nm...


I'm inclined to go with Swiftech's opinion on this. When the mfg particularly states not to using something due to it causing pump damage, that hold a little more weight than "it never did anything to my pump that isn't the one in question".


----------



## Russmaf

Hi everyone I am new to this forum and had a question with this cooler that I will be using at least one variant on my new build. I just purchased an enthoo luxe and wanted as much possible radiator space without putting a radiator in the front of the case. So I have come up with the idea of using the h140-x and then adding a 420mm radiator up top to cool an Intel 6600k with dual 980 or maybe wait for the new Pascal cards either way it will be an Sli setup. So my question I know the h140-x will fit in my case with no problems but what I am not sure of is if I get mobo that has a shroud like the Asus maximums or deluxe will this shroud interfere with the unit?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> Hi everyone I am new to this forum and had a question with this cooler that I will be using at least one variant on my new build. I just purchased an enthoo luxe and wanted as much possible radiator space without putting a radiator in the front of the case. So I have come up with the idea of using the h140-x and then adding a 420mm radiator up top to cool an Intel 6600k with dual 980 or maybe wait for the new Pascal cards either way it will be an Sli setup. So my question I know the h140-x will fit in my case with no problems but what I am not sure of is if I get mobo that has a shroud like the Asus maximums or deluxe will this shroud interfere with the unit?


It will not be an issue. You should check out the Enthoo owners thread. Our can get a lot of info there on that case.


----------



## Velathawen

Does anyone know where to get biocide like PTNuke in Asia? It cost $42 shipping for a $3.99 10mL bottle from Sidewinder and I'm not sure it's just due to the holiday rush *_*


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get biocide like PTNuke in Asia? It cost $42 shipping for a $3.99 10mL bottle from Sidewinder and I'm not sure it's just due to the holiday rush *_*


Not sure if you have Amazon in Asia but they sell PT Nuke there in the US.


----------



## Mattb2e

My H220 pump just failed while I was playing Planetside 2. Had I not been running afterburner with OSD on, I wouldn't have noticed my CPU was running at 105C. This is the second time this has happened to me (pump failure, only once with Swiftech). Sadly there is nothing I can do about it but bite the bullet and buy a new cooler, as it's out of warranty.

It was a good cooler while it lasted, sadly I was expecting to last a lot longer than it did.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> My H220 pump just failed while I was playing Planetside 2. Had I not been running afterburner with OSD on, I wouldn't have noticed my CPU was running at 105C. This is the second time this has happened to me (pump failure, only once with Swiftech). Sadly there is nothing I can do about it but bite the bullet and buy a new cooler, as it's out of warranty.
> 
> It was a good cooler while it lasted, sadly I was expecting to last a lot longer than it did.


If you have the time and want to try and fix it, I'm guessing it may just be clogged up. Mine stopped awhile back and after taking it apart, cleaning it out completely, back together, it works again. Assuming you have the original H220, I'd say that's the issue.

IMO, it's worth checking into anyway.


----------



## Mattb2e

Its worth a shot i suppose, couldn't hurt to try at least. Thanks for the info.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Its worth a shot i suppose, couldn't hurt to try at least. Thanks for the info.


yeah it's quite impossible to void a warranty you don't have...the pumps aren't that hard to take apart...just be sure to make note of all the parts and don't lose the washer


----------



## zila

And if it turns out the pump is dead, you could just upgrade the pump to the new MCP50X.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> And if it turns out the pump is dead, you could just upgrade the pump to the new MCP50X.


I disassembled the pump from the housing and plugged it in to see if it would rotate, but for some reason it would not. After rotating it by hand a few times, the impeller began spinning. Since then i have cleaned the loop and added fresh distilled and biocide. Really the only thing in the loop was flaky green stuff. Im not sure if it is algae, dye from the soap i used, dye from the original fluid, or something else. There was no slimy residue on the pump internals, and nothing noticeable in the tubing, but its hard to tell since it is black. Outside of that, the cooling fins werent super dirty, but i cleaned it up with some vinegar and a nylon brush anyway. Everything back together, it seems to be running fine at 100% duty cycle. Im afraid that it will fail when i install it back into my PC at a lower pump RPM.

What could have caused the impeller to sieze up randomly?


----------



## zila

When I took my H220 apart the first time I found a lot of crap in the pump from the coolant it came with. I didn't like that PM2 coolant. After cleaning out both of my H220s and going with distilled water and a biocide I have not had one problem with them. But I know the pumps will eventually wear out and at that time I will probably replace them with the new ones.

I use core temp and the core temp desktop gadget to watch my temps and also use core temp overheat protection. So, if the pump should quit and my processor temp should reach let's say 65°C, the rig will shut down automatically.

I think MSI Afterburner and HWINFO64 also have such options.

Maybe there was a build up of some sort around the impeller that stopped it? The dish washing soap acts as lubricant so I wouldn't worry about that.

Or the pump could just be tired.


----------



## Mattb2e

Here is a photo of the gunk I found in the loop.



I will look into the auto shutdown feature, that way I don't burn my chip up. In the meantime I have an H110I GT coming Wednesday just in case.


----------



## deehoC

Well after looking at my H240-X in its stock configuration for long enough I figured it was time for a change.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> Here is a photo of the gunk I found in the loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will look into the auto shutdown feature, that way I don't burn my chip up. In the meantime I have an H110I GT coming Wednesday just in case.


There was buildup in mine as well, I still have the old pics from the first time I took it apart. I'm not sure what the gunk was, like plasticizer or from the coolant itself. It has been working flawless since cleaning though.

This is how the coolant looked before filtering it out:



A couple more images of it before and after:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## zila

Mine looked like that too. I threw that garbage in the toilet and replaced it with distilled water and bio. There were bluish white stains all through the loop from that stuff and it clogged the pump. I don't use store bought coolants in these things.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Mine looked like that too. I threw that garbage in the toilet and replaced it with distilled water and bio. There were bluish white stains all through the loop from that stuff and it clogged the pump. I don't use store bought coolants in these things.


i used distilled without a biocide without issue but i strongly urge others to do so... i use onyx black tubing and the rig gets no sun... i also top the system to 100 percent with 0 air in it to prevent algae growth but for those who arent as meticulous or have clear or clearish colored tubing its a must.... but just because i do it doesnt make it correct







always use biocide with your distilled people


----------



## Nightz2k

The coolant, while I agree isn't the best, seems ok after filtering it out with coffee filters. I re-used it and topped it off with distilled. I have no biocide or anything like that, so I made due with what I had. I don't know if that's good or bad, but I will know next time I clean it out.

EDIT: Curious, if do need biocide anytime soon, what is recommended and would I need a silver coil or not ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> The coolant, while I agree isn't the best, seems ok after filtering it out with coffee filters. I re-used it and topped it off with distilled. I have no biocide or anything like that, so I made due with what I had. I don't know if that's good or bad, but I will know next time I clean it out.
> 
> EDIT: Curious, if do need biocide anytime soon, what is recommended and would I need a silver coil or not ?


the coolant you filtered contains a biocide agent in it already the small amount you topped up shouldnt matter







... silver coil acts sort of like a biocide in that it can kill bacteria... or make it harder for it to grow in the first place so not really needed i wouldnt say


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the coolant you filtered contains a biocide agent in it already the small amount you topped up shouldnt matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... silver coil acts sort of like a biocide in that it can kill bacteria... or make it harder for it to grow in the first place so not really needed i wouldnt say


Thank you for the info, just wanted to be sure of things.


----------



## d0mmie

I've got this pump rattle issue again with my H240-X. Some months ago I had this problem, however it did go away after a few days. Well almost to a certain degree. Now it seems to be back and with a vengeance!

This time however it won't go away. It's been two weeks and I've made sure all air is out of the system. It happens when the pump is running around 1200-1800 RPM. Above 1800 RPM is goes away, but at that speed the humm from the pump is just annoying listening to, so it's not a good solution to that problem.

At first I believed it to be microbubbles, but at this point I'm not so sure. Sounds more like there's some kind of resistance inside the pump housing, yet I never used anything but distilled water with corrosion inhibitor.

I recorded a video on the issue (turn up the volume, as it sounds much worse in real-life)






Merry Christmas btw


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've got this pump rattle issue again with my H240-X. Some months ago I had this problem, however it did go away after a few days. Well almost to a certain degree. Now it seems to be back and with a vengeance!
> 
> This time however it won't go away. It's been two weeks and I've made sure all air is out of the system. It happens when the pump is running around 1200-1800 RPM. Above 1800 RPM is goes away, but at that speed the humm from the pump is just annoying listening to, so it's not a good solution to that problem.
> 
> At first I believed it to be microbubbles, but at this point I'm not so sure. Sounds more like there's some kind of resistance inside the pump housing, yet I never used anything but distilled water with corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> I recorded a video on the issue (turn up the volume, as it sounds much worse in real-life)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas btw


That doesn't sound like air bubbles to me, however I am not very familiar with the 220/240x pump. Is the noise louder at higher pump speeds?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've got this pump rattle issue again with my H240-X. Some months ago I had this problem, however it did go away after a few days. Well almost to a certain degree. Now it seems to be back and with a vengeance!
> 
> This time however it won't go away. It's been two weeks and I've made sure all air is out of the system. It happens when the pump is running around 1200-1800 RPM. Above 1800 RPM is goes away, but at that speed the humm from the pump is just annoying listening to, so it's not a good solution to that problem.
> 
> At first I believed it to be microbubbles, but at this point I'm not so sure. Sounds more like there's some kind of resistance inside the pump housing, yet I never used anything but distilled water with corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> I recorded a video on the issue (turn up the volume, as it sounds much worse in real-life)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas btw


Please contact me at [email protected] so I can help you to solve this issue.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattb2e*
> 
> That doesn't sound like air bubbles to me, however I am not very familiar with the 220/240x pump. Is the noise louder at higher pump speeds?


The noise seems to almost go away from 1800+ RPM, but then again it might just be that the overall pump noise is louder, so I can't hear the rattle at this point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Please contact me at [email protected] so I can help you to solve this issue.


Thank you Dango, I'll contact you asap.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used distilled without a biocide without issue but i strongly urge others to do so... i use onyx black tubing and the rig gets no sun... i also top the system to 100 percent with 0 air in it to prevent algae growth but for those who arent as meticulous or have clear or clearish colored tubing its a must.... but just because i do it doesnt make it correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> always use biocide with your distilled people


I would actually recommend against this, as it seems the radiator has a high amount of flux or other gunk remaining (verified by a rattling piece of junk inside my rad I can't get out). I ran distilled+PT Nuke for a month and had signs of corrosion on some of my Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings I expanded it with. I'm currently using Mayhems XT-1 clear but the X1 is a viable option too if you're worried about toxicity. (EG vs PG).

Swiftech claims the default coolant is 20% PG, and judging by it's color it's probably just a regular antifreeze mixed in (like HydroX is zerex (EG based) with some additional dye/florescents).

IMO >10% PG or EG isn't necessary though. EK uses 10% in their coolants.

Byran mentioned previously that Fesser Base was extremely similar to what they use and suggested I use that. Now that Bryan is gone, Swiftech of course just recommends their own product, which we all know gunks up over time.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I would actually recommend against this, as it seems the radiator has a high amount of flux or other gunk remaining (verified by a rattling piece of junk inside my rad I can't get out). I ran distilled+PT Nuke for a month and had signs of corrosion on some of my Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings I expanded it with. I'm currently using Mayhems XT-1 clear but the X1 is a viable option too if you're worried about toxicity. (EG vs PG).
> 
> Swiftech claims the default coolant is 20% PG, and judging by it's color it's probably just a regular antifreeze mixed in (like HydroX is zerex (EG based) with some additional dye/florescents).
> 
> IMO >10% PG or EG isn't necessary though. EK uses 10% in their coolants.
> 
> Byran mentioned previously that Fesser Base was extremely similar to what they use and suggested I use that. Now that Bryan is gone, Swiftech of course just recommends their own product, which we all know gunks up over time.


everyone should properly clean their unit before refilling...treating it as a new rad one might buy...thus removing that as a problem...there won't be any leftovers if it's cleaned well prior to refill







plus my loop has been cleaned and refilled about 6 times now so no worries there...I'll actually be performing surgery soon to replace the window and I'll disassemble the unit at that point with pictures of course







...

I don't remember getting a lot of gunk out of mine I flushed it using hit water for awhile...then boiling water and vinegar then flushed with distilled afterwards...Also flux shouldn't cause corrosion on the fitting afaik...


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> everyone should properly clean their unit before refilling...treating it as a new rad one might buy...thus removing that as a problem...there won't be any leftovers if it's cleaned well prior to refill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus my loop has been cleaned and refilled about 6 times now so no worries there...I'll actually be performing surgery soon to replace the window and I'll disassemble the unit at that point with pictures of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I don't remember getting a lot of gunk out of mine I flushed it using hit water for awhile...then boiling water and vinegar then flushed with distilled afterwards...Also flux shouldn't cause corrosion on the fitting afaik...


I agree with you there. I added a new rad and block for my gpu in my loop. Didn't clean it out or prep it(as am a newbie with this) Everything turned green on me..







So I had to dismantle everything cleaned it out with hot water and vinegar Ran it in the loop for a couple of hour. Then ran some sysprep for a while. Then added distilled water with PT Nuke.. So for it going good.







I had to put in a stand because it would droop and the card would artifact badly. Now I can oc it to 1560 core..

Before:


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am getting ready to add a MB block set to my loop and the recent posts have left me a bit confused.
I have had my H-240X for less than a year.
My questions:
1. Do I need to clean it out before adding some new coolant?
2. If so what method/chemicals should I use to clean it?
3. Based on the advice of a friend on here I plan on using distilled water with some anti microbial silver. Do I really need to add anything that mix?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am getting ready to add a MB block set to my loop and the recent posts have left me a bit confused.
> I have had my H-240X for less than a year.
> My questions:
> 1. Do I need to clean it out before adding some new coolant?
> 2. If so what method/chemicals should I use to clean it?
> 3. Based on the advice of a friend on here I plan on using distilled water with some anti microbial silver. Do I really need to add anything that mix?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I would always flush it out really well in case there is anything left being from the soldering process...you can use hot water mixed with a little vinegar...our you can buy cleaners specifically for cleaning your loop..basically you just want to make sure there isn't any lose debris or residues left over...I assume by anti microbial silver you mean a kill coil made of silver? There are different views on this some say sure it's enough some say add something like pt nuke to it as well...imo it really depends on how often you plan to maintenance it...if you plan to do more than two times a year then I don't think it matters a whole lot...if you're looking for once a year or more than a year I would use the coil and drops....I always clean new components you never know what can be left behind from manufacturing processes...I've found plastic and solder in rads as well as paint flecks in water blocks and random shavings of copper in a different read so better to get it before it clogs something up or impede s the water flow affecting temps


----------



## 3teng

Hi guys, h240x user reporting in.









Heres my latest setup, didnt really think about the pressure and all stuff. But so far, im pleased with the temps im getting.









Feel free to share your thoughts.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3teng*
> 
> Hi guys, h240x user reporting in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres my latest setup, didnt really think about the pressure and all stuff. But so far, im pleased with the temps im getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel free to share your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good I like the custom paint, especially on the H240-X. How about the system specs?


----------



## 3teng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good I like the custom paint, especially on the H240-X. How about the system specs?


Thank you








Here's the specs









NZXT Source 530
ASrock Z97 Extreme4
I5-4690k,
G1 Gaming GTX970 SLI
Avexir Raiden Series Blue 16GB RAM
128gb SSD+500gb HDD+1tb HDD
Seasonic P-760 PSU

Cooling:
Swiftech H240x expanded loop.
Apogee XL CPU waterblock
EK-FC970 GTX WF3 Waterblock x2
EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
Nemesis-120GTS Radiator
Nemesis-240GTS Radiator
3x CM Jetflo 120mm
2x Swiftech Helix 140mm


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3teng*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NZXT Source 530
> ASrock Z97 Extreme4
> I5-4690k,
> G1 Gaming GTX970 SLI
> Avexir Raiden Series Blue 16GB RAM
> 128gb SSD+500gb HDD+1tb HDD
> Seasonic P-760 PSU
> 
> Cooling:
> Swiftech H240x expanded loop.
> Apogee XL CPU waterblock
> EK-FC970 GTX WF3 Waterblock x2
> EK-FC Terminal DUAL Serial 3-Slot
> Nemesis-120GTS Radiator
> Nemesis-240GTS Radiator
> 3x CM Jetflo 120mm
> 2x Swiftech Helix 140mm


Looks good how do you find the jetflo fans ?


----------



## 3teng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Looks good how do you find the jetflo fans ?


Thx. Its sold locally here, very easy to find in local pc store.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3teng*
> 
> Thx. Its sold locally here, very easy to find in local pc store.


I mean performance wise?


----------



## 3teng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I mean performance wise?


Oh my bad. Using the fans with its 1600rpm adapter, still it pushes air out quite well through the back and top radiators. Usual temps im getting below 50'c for gpus, and below 60'c for cpu.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used distilled without a biocide without issue but i strongly urge others to do so... i use onyx black tubing and the rig gets no sun... i also top the system to 100 percent with 0 air in it to prevent algae growth but for those who arent as meticulous or have clear or clearish colored tubing its a must.... but just because i do it doesnt make it correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> always use biocide with your distilled people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would actually recommend against this, as it seems the radiator has a high amount of flux or other gunk remaining (verified by a rattling piece of junk inside my rad I can't get out). I ran distilled+PT Nuke for a month and had signs of corrosion on some of my Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings I expanded it with. I'm currently using Mayhems XT-1 clear but the X1 is a viable option too if you're worried about toxicity. (EG vs PG).
> 
> Swiftech claims the default coolant is 20% PG, and judging by it's color it's probably just a regular antifreeze mixed in (like HydroX is zerex (EG based) with some additional dye/florescents).
> 
> IMO >10% PG or EG isn't necessary though. EK uses 10% in their coolants.
> 
> Byran mentioned previously that Fesser Base was extremely similar to what they use and suggested I use that. Now that Bryan is gone, Swiftech of course just recommends their own product, which we all know gunks up over time.
Click to expand...











corrosion? on brass? i would love seeing pics,

while brass can corrode, it is a surface corrosion that does not cause any issues , the only way i know for brass to corrode is galvanic corrosion or a few others, that you would have to be doing something excessively wrong to have happen


----------



## v1ral

Quick question...
What are you all using for QDCs?
Has anyone tried Alphacool's quick release fittings?


----------



## Swystix

Hi Everyone,

New H240 owner here and I had just one question regarding changing the coolant without voiding the warranty. I have searched online for a few days looking into the compatibility of coolants with the H240. I wasn't able to find anything definitive. I have the following parts to add in to the loop to change the look and feel to black and red to match my NZXT H440.

http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-primoflex-advanced-lrt-bloodshed-0b-78757.htm

http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105879.htm

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these products more specifically whether the coolant will void the warranty and if not should I flush the system with anything specific prior to making the change.

Thanks for your time,

Swys


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swystix*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> New H240 owner here and I had just one question regarding changing the coolant without voiding the warranty. I have searched online for a few days looking into the compatibility of coolants with the H240. I wasn't able to find anything definitive. I have the following parts to add in to the loop to change the look and feel to black and red to match my NZXT H440.
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-primoflex-advanced-lrt-bloodshed-0b-78757.htm
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105879.htm
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these products more specifically whether the coolant will void the warranty and if not should I flush the system with anything specific prior to making the change.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> 
> Swys


I am using the exact tubing and distilled water only with some biocide and it's working well.
The only thing that I don't like about dyes is it stains, I think all dyes stain no matter what, haven't used dyes since they still made "dye bombs" back in the day.
I would just get colored tubing and be done with it.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swystix*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> New H240 owner here and I had just one question regarding changing the coolant without voiding the warranty. I have searched online for a few days looking into the compatibility of coolants with the H240. I wasn't able to find anything definitive. I have the following parts to add in to the loop to change the look and feel to black and red to match my NZXT H440.
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-primoflex-advanced-lrt-bloodshed-0b-78757.htm
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105879.htm
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these products more specifically whether the coolant will void the warranty and if not should I flush the system with anything specific prior to making the change.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> 
> Swys


I am curious why you would get colored coolant when you would have red tubing?


----------



## Swystix

Only to change the colour in the pump window, is there another way?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swystix*
> 
> Only to change the colour in the pump window, is there another way?


These colored replacement windows: http://www.swiftech.com/pphr_windows.aspx


----------



## Madmaxneo

What biocide is recommended to use with distilled water in the H240-X?


----------



## Mega Man

it is all personal pref.

i prefer ptnuke ( blue one ) /iandh dead water

some use the clear ptnuke others kill coil, others a mixture, others mayhems.

i have has my loops for a long time and have had no need for anything but water and ptnuke/iandh deadwater works great !


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swystix*
> 
> Only to change the colour in the pump window, is there another way?


Yes they do coloured Windows for the h240 220x resivour. Or you could vinyl wrap or tint it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Yes they do coloured Windows for the h240 220x resivour. Or you could vinyl wrap or tint it


A colored Sharpee might work also....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> A colored Sharpee might work also....


Markers leave it blotchy.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Markers leave it blotchy.


True, Then it seems the cheapest alternative is colored transparent tape.....


----------



## rfarmer

http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx Or for $5 you could just buy a red window.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/PPHR_Windows.aspx Or for $5 you could just buy a red window.


Myabe I should have said cheap and easiest, meaning no need to take everything apart just to change a window color....lol


----------



## deehoC

Well after looking at my H240-X in its stock configuration I figured it was time for a change.

Got some EK Black nickel compression fittings and 45° adapters, EK UV Blue coolant and some of the new Mayhems ultra clear soft tubing and I'm quite happy with the result.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swystix*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> New H240 owner here and I had just one question regarding changing the coolant without voiding the warranty. I have searched online for a few days looking into the compatibility of coolants with the H240. I wasn't able to find anything definitive. I have the following parts to add in to the loop to change the look and feel to black and red to match my NZXT H440.
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-primoflex-advanced-lrt-bloodshed-0b-78757.htm
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/detail/ek-water-block-ek-ekoolant-evo-bd-105879.htm
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these products more specifically whether the coolant will void the warranty and if not should I flush the system with anything specific prior to making the change.
> 
> Thanks for your time,
> 
> Swys


I'd recommend flushing your H240-X quite thoroughly if you intend to use EKoolant Evo as I'm currently using the Blue version of it and the UV effect faded within a few days. I kept some spare fluid and left it in my system in a jar for a few days and it seems to maintain all of the UV glow/brightness so I would assume I didn't flush the rad as well as I should have.


----------



## v1ral

@deehoC
For the complete fitting swap you just needed one swiftech adapter?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> @deehoC
> For the complete fitting swap you just needed one swiftech adapter?


You need this adapter for the pump. http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx all other fittings are already G1/4.


----------



## FXformat

Just installed my H220x today, ran the system and let it cycle for a few hours, my pump is making a very loud humming noise. All the air bubbles are gone, it's just making humming noises...any thoughts?


----------



## Mega Man

i would bet there is some air still but i would recommend posting a video


----------



## d1One

Can anyone confirm if it is possible to use gard tubing with these IOA solutions?
Im thinking of getting the Cooler Master Glacer 240L, the reviews are great but I'm afraid it might be a bit outdated.

Please help out a water cooling newbie guys!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1One*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if it is possible to use gard tubing with these IOA solutions?
> Im thinking of getting the Cooler Master Glacer 240L, the reviews are great but I'm afraid it might be a bit outdated.
> 
> Please help out a water cooling newbie guys!


It would be a bit easier to do rigid tubing with the H220-X since all of the connectors except one are G1/4. The one that is not has an adapter available - http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## d1One

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It would be a bit easier to do rigid tubing with the H220-X since all of the connectors except one are G1/4. The one that is not has an adapter available - http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


Thanks so much for the reply and info.
After reading a bit more on the subject I think i will follow your advice.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1One*
> 
> Thanks so much for the reply and info.
> After reading a bit more on the subject I think i will follow your advice.


Another nice thing about the H220-X is you can easily expand the loop. I added an additional 120mm rad and gpu block to my loop. Works great.


----------



## d1One

Yeah thats one of the main reasons why i chose it.
Im planing on expanding soon but first i wanna get my feet wet and start small as this is my first water cooling adventure. Im planning on adding a reservoir and drain system soon and later another rad and GPU block.

I see you have 970 like me, has the water cooling loop allowed to have much of gain in performance?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1One*
> 
> Yeah thats one of the main reasons why i chose it.
> Im planing on expanding soon but first i wanna get my feet wet and start small as this is my first water cooling adventure. Im planning on adding a reservoir and drain system soon and later another rad and GPU block.
> 
> I see you have 970 like me, has the water cooling loop allowed to have much of gain in performance?


I have it on a modded bios at 1506 MHz core clock and 8000 MHz memory clock, very stable and seldom goes over 45C while gaming. No PerfCap Reasons, when on air I used to get thermal throttling.


----------



## vietrice89

Does anyone have the H240X Front mounted in a fractal design R5? Did it fit out of box? If not what modding was needed?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Does anyone have the H240X Front mounted in a fractal design R5? Did it fit out of box? If not what modding was needed?


I've had mine mounted in the front in a R5 for quite a while, and it does fit out of the box with one exception. You will have to drill out the 8 threads for the 140mm mount. If you don't it will be hell to mount because the screw has to go through two threads at once, and there's just not any tolerance. Also you should consider getting a 280mm anti-vibration gasket to place between the radiator and chassis, else you risk some nasty vibrations going into the chassis. XSPC makes some good ones and you might need some 35mm 6-32 UNC screws plus 8 metal discs (so you don't screw into the radiator).

The gasket is needed because the H240-X seems to cause more vibrations than normal when mounted vertical, either that or it's just the way the R5 chassis has been designed.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I've had mine mounted in the front in a R5 for quite a while, and it does fit out of the box with one exception. You will have to drill out the 8 threads for the 140mm mount. If you don't it will be hell to mount because the screw has to go through two threads at once, and there's just not any tolerance. Also you should consider getting a 280mm anti-vibration gasket to place between the radiator and chassis, else you risk some nasty vibrations going into the chassis. XSPC makes some good ones and you might need some 35mm 6-32 UNC screws plus 8 metal discs (so you don't screw into the radiator).
> 
> The gasket is needed because the H240-X seems to cause more vibrations than normal when mounted vertical, either that or it's just the way the R5 chassis has been designed.


Could you post of a picture of your set up? Also what do you mean by metal disk.
Thanks for the reply I'm going to order the h240x now knowing it's going to fit with minor adjustments


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Could you post of a picture of your set up? Also what do you mean by metal disk.
> Thanks for the reply I'm going to order the h240x now knowing it's going to fit with minor adjustments


he means washers I'm pretty sure


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> he means washers I'm pretty sure


Exactly








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Could you post of a picture of your set up? Also what do you mean by metal disk.
> Thanks for the reply I'm going to order the h240x now knowing it's going to fit with minor adjustments


Sorry I don't have any pictures with the H240-X in R5.


----------



## Velathawen

Looking for some input on how to plan my watercooling expansion to include overclocked 6700K + MSI Gaming 980Ti SLI:

- *What type of rad size do I need? I've been reading 120 per component + 1 as a rough rule.*

If my math hasn't failed completely I should be looking at 110W for CPU and 560W for SLI 980Tis bringing me to a total of 660W.
- *Case will be a Define R5 but I need to use the bigger 5 drive cage so I'm having trouble finding a way to fit anything meaningful.*

Mounting the drive cage up top limits me to 140mm front.
Bottom can only accommodate 140 rad since my PSU is 170mm long.
Might be able to squeeze in a 120 or 140 exhaust if I relocate the top mount further up front.
Wondering if there will be too much restriction with all these random small rads added to the loop
Link to Fractal's R5 rad support chart.

Link to Fractal's compatibility chart with more specific info


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Looking for some input on how to plan my watercooling expansion to include overclocked 6700K + MSI Gaming 980Ti SLI:
> 
> - *What type of rad size do I need? I've been reading 120 per component + 1 as a rough rule.*
> 
> If my math hasn't failed completely I should be looking at 110W for CPU and 560W for SLI 980Tis bringing me to a total of 660W.
> - *Case will be a Define R5 but I need to use the bigger 5 drive cage so I'm having trouble finding a way to fit anything meaningful.*
> 
> Mounting the drive cage up top limits me to 140mm front.
> Bottom can only accommodate 140 rad since my PSU is 170mm long.
> Might be able to squeeze in a 120 or 140 exhaust if I relocate the top mount further up front.
> Wondering if there will be too much restriction with all these random small rads added to the loop
> Link to Fractal's R5 rad support chart.
> 
> Link to Fractal's compatibility chart with more specific info


Truth is you should strongly consider moving to a single (or 2-3 for raid) high capacity drive setup. And if you have more than 6TB of data... maybe you should invest in an external NAS. I don't know your specific situation but... 5 drives is a bit much... especially if you want to watercool SLI cards in an mid tower case.

There really is no "good" option here. If you REALLY need the 5 drives, you can start with one of these in the 5.25 bay. That will net you three drive slots. After that, your only option is to jerry rig 2 more drive mounts on the floor next to the PSU or if you are lucky between the case and the side panels. This can be accomplished with some rubber padding, adhesive, and industrial strength velcro. I did this with my R4 and it worked out pretty well.

Don't forget there are 2.5 drive mounts on the backside, so you don't need to take up a 3.5 slot for those. If you aren't using RAID, then you should consider getting some external enclosures.


----------



## vietrice89

Best place to get a H240X in the US?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Best place to get a H240X in the US?


I bought my H220-X at performance pc, but they are showing out of stock on the 240-x. Swiftech's own site also shows out of stock. I did find this http://www.coolerguys.com/840556102700.html. Only place I saw it at a decent price.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Looking for some input on how to plan my watercooling expansion to include overclocked 6700K + MSI Gaming 980Ti SLI:
> 
> - *What type of rad size do I need? I've been reading 120 per component + 1 as a rough rule.*
> 
> If my math hasn't failed completely I should be looking at 110W for CPU and 560W for SLI 980Tis bringing me to a total of 660W.
> - *Case will be a Define R5 but I need to use the bigger 5 drive cage so I'm having trouble finding a way to fit anything meaningful.*
> 
> Mounting the drive cage up top limits me to 140mm front.
> Bottom can only accommodate 140 rad since my PSU is 170mm long.
> Might be able to squeeze in a 120 or 140 exhaust if I relocate the top mount further up front.
> Wondering if there will be too much restriction with all these random small rads added to the loop
> Link to Fractal's R5 rad support chart.
> 
> Link to Fractal's compatibility chart with more specific info


Just wanted to touch on this. It us 120 (fan) plus 120 (fan)x each component. Not 120w. Also if you have that many drives you may want to get a bigger case. Another option is to use an external rad.

You don't need to follow the "rule" but your temps will be high. The less rads you have the more hot the stuff will be


----------



## Banda

Finaly, I got a h240x.

Maybe in the future I will replace the tubes and fittings.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Banda*
> 
> Finaly, I got a h240x.
> 
> Maybe in the future I will replace the tubes and fittings.


Where did you purchase yours from?


----------



## Banda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Where did you purchase yours from?


I live in The Netherlands.

highflow.nl are selling them.


----------



## Velathawen

Thanks for the input guys, definitely going to look into shrinking the number of physical drives in the case.

On another note - I am currently seeing my H240x run at full speed (fan + pump) but the fan monitor is only showing 1200 RPM in Windows. Is this a problem with the PWM splitter itself or is it likely my CPU fan header has gone wonky?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys, definitely going to look into shrinking the number of physical drives in the case.
> 
> On another note - I am currently seeing my H240x run at full speed (fan + pump) but the fan monitor is only showing 1200 RPM in Windows. Is this a problem with the PWM splitter itself or is it likely my CPU fan header has gone wonky?


Pump speed on those is 1200 - 3000 rpm, do you have the pump plugged into the first connector on the splitter (the one marked in red)?

I have mine set at 75% and my pumps runs at 2300 rpm.


----------



## itsZiz

What is the best COOLANT/mixtures to use for my h240x?

I'm going to be replacing the window with a red one and need to replace the coolant with something that is clear. ( would use the swiftech hyrdx but its green)

From what I've read, distilled water plus PT nuke is the best? I cant use a kill coil since the reservoir is small.

PLUS I think there is some algee growing so I need to flush it. Whats the best method. just drain and refill with hot tap water and vinegar a few times and distilled water a few times?

Thanks for any help!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you're looking for once a year or more than a year I would use the coil and drops...


How can I add a coil to my h240x when the reservoir is so small?


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Pump speed on those is 1200 - 3000 rpm, do you have the pump plugged into the first connector on the splitter (the one marked in red)?
> 
> I have mine set at 75% and my pumps runs at 2300 rpm.


Everything is physically plugged in properly and configured properly - it was running fine the last few months.

The good news is that I managed to isolate the problem down to 1 of the Swiftech Helixes being stuck at max RPM regardless of where it was plugged into (swiftech pwm splitter or any of the mobo 3/4pins). Weird.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsZiz*
> 
> What is the best COOLANT/mixtures to use for my h240x?
> 
> I'm going to be replacing the window with a red one and need to replace the coolant with something that is clear. ( would use the swiftech hyrdx but its green)
> 
> From what I've read, distilled water plus PT nuke is the best? I cant use a kill coil since the reservoir is small.
> 
> PLUS I think there is some algee growing so I need to flush it. Whats the best method. just drain and refill with hot tap water and vinegar a few times and distilled water a few times?
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> How can I add a coil to my h240x when the reservoir is so small?


he was talking about expanding and adding these things in...one could be installed in a rad or a secondary res...they may make an inline one not sure...I've never used one but I hear they do a decent job


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Everything is physically plugged in properly and configured properly - it was running fine the last few months.
> 
> The good news is that I managed to isolate the problem down to 1 of the Swiftech Helixes being stuck at max RPM regardless of where it was plugged into (swiftech pwm splitter or any of the mobo 3/4pins). Weird.


That is weird, easier fix than the pump at least.


----------



## d0mmie

For your information, if your Swiftech H140/220/240-X unit only cools either CPU or CPU + 1 GPU, you do not need to run the pump at high speeds! Min. RPM (1200) is more than enough and you will not see a difference in temps. On top of that you'll have much less noise. In some situations you won't even be able to hear the pump (depending on your case). This is also very helpful if one uses Noctua or Corsair SP Quiet fans instead of the Helix fans.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> For your information, if your Swiftech H140/220/240-X unit only cools either CPU or CPU + 1 GPU, you do not need to run the pump at high speeds! Min. RPM (1200) is more than enough and you will not see a difference in temps. On top of that you'll have much less noise. In some situations you won't even be able to hear the pump (depending on your case). This is also very helpful if one uses Noctua or Corsair SP Quiet fans instead of the Helix fans.


I have a H240x with a extra 120mm rad cooling a oc'd 4790k and one video card a NVidia gtx 980 in my loop and I juice up the pump when gaming to 1800 rpm.It seems to cool better at that rpm range.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a H240x with a extra 120mm rad cooling a oc'd 4790k and one video card a NVidia gtx 980 in my loop and I juice up the pump when gaming to 1800 rpm.It seems to cool better at that rpm range.


I agree. I have a my CPU, GPU and a 140x45mm in my loop. The lowest RPM doesn't seem to be quite enough. I usually keep it around 1800-2000rpm for gaming. I'm going to try surrounding the pump in sound dampening foam to reduce the noise. Hopefully that helps a bit.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I agree. I have a my CPU, GPU and a 140x45mm in my loop. The lowest RPM doesn't seem to be quite enough. I usually keep it around 1800-2000rpm for gaming. I'm going to try surrounding the pump in sound dampening foam to reduce the noise. Hopefully that helps a bit.


Just curious, what do you keep your pump at when not gaming.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just curious, what do you keep your pump at when not gaming.


It depends, I have the pump RPM mapped to my water temp sensor. >30c = lowest speed (~1200rpm). 30-36c (1400-2000rpm). 36-40c (2000rpm-3000rpm).


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a H240x with a extra 120mm rad cooling a oc'd 4790k and one video card a NVidia gtx 980 in my loop and I juice up the pump when gaming to 1800 rpm.It seems to cool better at that rpm range.


In the end it really depends on the resistance in the loop. If you use EK blocks for both CPU and GPU with the Swiftech unit, 1200 RPM will be just fine. But if both blocks have high restriction, then yes there might be a difference.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> For your information, if your Swiftech H140/220/240-X unit only cools either CPU or CPU + 1 GPU, you do not need to run the pump at high speeds! Min. RPM (1200) is more than enough and you will not see a difference in temps. On top of that you'll have much less noise. In some situations you won't even be able to hear the pump (depending on your case). This is also very helpful if one uses Noctua or Corsair SP Quiet fans instead of the Helix fans.


yeah I on the other hand do...I have cpu two gpus and 3 rads total







it's the 3k life for me


----------



## VSG

Looks like some more Swiftech AIOs incoming: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index.html


----------



## rfarmer

Thanks for the heads up, I like the Prestige Series with the Noiseblocker fans and included compression fittings.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like some more Swiftech AIOs incoming: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index.html


Yes, good looking units. Clear CPU block, rounded res and Noiseblocker fans.

But.....those TT reviews are so horribly biased and full of misinformation. If you are going to give your big advertisers a little boost, don't make it so outlandish and obvious.


----------



## Dry Bonez

OMg makes me want to sell my H220x NS GET ONE OF THESE BAD BOYS.


----------



## Velathawen

Really tempted to shove my H240x off to my dad and replace with a 320, wonder when availability will hit Asia.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like some more Swiftech AIOs incoming: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index.html


Looks great even though it's probably not my style. Think I'll pass, have had enough issues with the two H240-X I owned. Time to move onto something more pro









EKWB is going to have some serious competition though, considering their price point for their AIO products which is just silly expensive compared to Swiftech products.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> EKWB is going to have some serious competition though, considering their price point for their AIO products which is just silly expensive compared to Swiftech products.


I'm really confused that this seems to be a prevailing thought.

The H220 and X series came out long before the Predator. They also performed slightly better in independent tests, are quieter and cost less.

So, essentially, EK did a Swiftech knockoff at a higher price that doesn't perform as well, is louder and costs more - yet everyone is acting like EK invented the wheel. If anything, it is Swiftech that is getting competition from EK, and that competition has been based on riding a brand name rather than on performance and value.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm really confused that this seems to be a prevailing thought.
> 
> The H220 and X series came out long before the Predator. They also performed slightly better in independent tests, are quieter and cost less.
> 
> So, essentially, EK did a Swiftech knockoff at a higher price that doesn't perform as well, is louder and costs more - yet everyone is acting like EK invented the wheel. If anything, it is Swiftech that is getting competition from EK, and that competition has been based on riding a brand name rather than on performance and value.


I think you're reading too much into what I said. I never made any statement that EK did better, is better, or did it first. Competition goes both ways.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I think you're reading too much into what I said. I never made any statement that EK did better, is better, or did it first. Competition goes both ways.


What I said is not limited to your particular statement - it is widespread. People seem to be acting like EK just invented the wheel, when in fact Swiftech beat them to market by two years and did it better.


----------



## v1ral

Great info on the new stuff!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like some more Swiftech AIOs incoming: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index.html


I like! I have my eye on the prestige series with the compression rotary fittings, the noise blocker fans, the tube reservoir, and the other extras. A 360 would fit perfectly in my case to replace my 240. I could then use the 240 to cool my GPU......


----------



## navit

Wonder when these will hit swiftech's sitefor sale?


----------



## d1One

They do look way better but i still dislike seeing the pump sticking out behind the res... its looks off.


----------



## itsZiz

So.. it looks like im selling my h240x and getting one of the new sweet beauties. Cant wait


----------



## paskowitz

Is the pump improved over the H240/220-X?


----------



## stephenm

hey guys

the product page will be up in a couple days, obviously been crazy busy here








updated our front page: http://www.swiftech.com/

here's a link to the official brochure: http://www.swiftech.org/FINAL_KS_AIO.pdf
and here's a highlight video: 




cheers,
Stephen


----------



## Tim Drake

Hey guys!

I bought a used H320 and the temps are insane! I was wondering how I can reduce pump noise as it seems to make a much louder noise at 35% or above but the fans are amazing.

Thanks


----------



## paskowitz

Outside of the different fans what accounts for the performance difference between the H240 X2 Prestige and the base H240 X2?


----------



## arkansaswoman22

I love the new design of the cooler, glad i decided to wait till summer to buy parts and stuff


----------



## itsZiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Outside of the different fans what accounts for the performance difference between the H240 X2 Prestige and the base H240 X2?


I think its just the fans. The only other change are the compression fittings.

The Eloop fans probably spin faster on the "low" setting


----------



## stephenm

only 2 differences between prestige and standard:

1. eLoop vs Helix fans
2. full metal rotary/compression vs barb/clamp fitings


----------



## navit

When these hit your product page, will they be for sell at that time or is there going to be a wait?


----------



## stephenm

they are being shipped to US resellers. They should be available from them next week.


----------



## navit

my bad , let restate, what I meant to say was to buy from the Swiftech site


----------



## ganzosrevenge

I just hope that I don't have to top off my loop every 3 to 4 weeks... no leaks, but if I dont it sounds like a diesel truck... I thought about an EK L240 kit, but in the Obsidian 350D it is too big by LESS than a millimeter... otherwise it'll be air-cooling for me.


----------



## navit

I have had my h220x since it first came out in 2014 and not once have I had to touch it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> the product page will be up in a couple days, obviously been crazy busy here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> updated our front page: http://www.swiftech.com/
> 
> here's a link to the official brochure: http://www.swiftech.org/FINAL_KS_AIO.pdf
> and here's a highlight video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers,
> Stephen


Only makes me drool even more. So many cool features....Hopefully I can get one of the prestige models by this summer.


----------



## sav4

Is there a comparison between the h240x and the version 2 prestige?
Is the block essentially the same with a different clear body ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenm*
> 
> only 2 differences between prestige and standard:
> 
> 1. eLoop vs Helix fans
> 2. full metal rotary/compression vs barb/clamp fitings


Hey Stephen, nice to finally talk to you directly. I used to mostly communicate with you via Bryan before. Anyway, I recall a mention of a high flow Apogee XL coldplate design in the making last year. Did that ever come to fruition? It would help out here with the Prestige AIOs.


----------



## Tim Drake

What should I have my fan curve on the H320 at to make it quiet but still perform well?



This is my current fan curve but it gets a bit loud lol


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Is there a comparison between the h240x and the version 2 prestige?
> Is the block essentially the same with a different clear body ?


some changes to the block and the radiator
no review of the H240 X2 yet


----------



## stephenm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey Stephen, nice to finally talk to you directly. I used to mostly communicate with you via Bryan before. Anyway, I recall a mention of a high flow Apogee XL coldplate design in the making last year. Did that ever come to fruition? It would help out here with the Prestige AIOs.


Hey!
we have a new high-end block that should be coming out in the next couple of months, we're showing it here at CES (no picture with me right now) but I'll take one if you haven't seen it yet (it's been fairly covered by media already, just unsure if they posted yet)


----------



## VSG

I haven't seen any pics of anything but the Prestige H320 X2 via Tweaktown, but I haven't had much time to search either. Any pics of products will always be appreciated here though!


----------



## Tim Drake

@stephenm

What is the best method to remove air bubbles / reduce pump noise?

I have a H320


----------



## v1ral

I watched the video, those little things shown while panning the camera towards the end, are those like dye bombs or something?

Also the new block, does it perform better than the XL or is it just an aesthetics change?

Why the fan change? Aren't the E-Loops gonna make weird noises mounted a certain way?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I watched the video, those little things shown while panning the camera towards the end, are those like dye bombs or something?
> 
> Also the new block, does it perform better than the XL or is it just an aesthetics change?
> 
> Why the fan change? Aren't the E-Loops gonna make weird noises mounted a certain way?


The new block is the Apogee XL2 rather than the Apogee XL, I couldn't find any info on it other than it is included with the new AIO's.


----------



## Velathawen

Is there any word on availability or shipping to Asia?


----------



## Jidonsu

Just my luck. I ordered an H220x from Performance PC a couple days ago. Fedex will deliver it on Saturday. I just shot them an email hoping they'll let me exchange it (plus the additional cost) for one of the Prestige models.


----------



## NFL

Just got an H100 for Christmas, but I really REALLY like those Prestige units...hmmmm, not sure what I'm going to do


----------



## v1ral

Edit.
Scratch that, they have cheaper shipping!!!

Any word on when PPCS will get the g/14 adapter fittings?

I checked the shipping and it costs a lot.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Edit.
> Scratch that, they have cheaper shipping!!!
> 
> Any word on when PPCS will get the g/14 adapter fittings?
> 
> I checked the shipping and it costs a lot.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-g1-4-compatible-replacement-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump.html

Says they have 2 in stock.


----------



## deehoC

Linus has some footage of the new Prestige line of coolers along with some added material of the new flagship block Stephen was talking about, it looks pretty interesting especially if it delivers the 6° temperature reduction mentioned in the video. I wonder if that would place it above competitors blocks in terms of performance or be pretty much right in line with them?

@stephenm Will all of the ports on the Prestige line be G 1/4" or will buyers still need to purchase the G 1/4" adapter for the outlet port like on the previous X series?

Speaking of that outlet port adapter is there any reason why it wasn't designed as a G 1/4" in the first place on the older units? I always thought it was rather curious that with the customization/expansion you guys added to the coolers you didn't standardize every port on the kits. There must be some reason but to a layman like myself I can't imagine what it is lol


----------



## ganzosrevenge

To someone at Swiftech

I'm having a problem with my H220-x, can you PM me about it. I'm not sure if it's simple evaporation and I have bad luck, or if something is starting to go properly wrong with my loop. I'm refilling the loop every 3 to 4 months (sometimes more often.) Towel tests have shown no leakage.

Jason


----------



## Russmaf

Just a simple question I know it's a brand new product but does anyone know if it's possible to move the reservoir and pump over to another side as I want to purchase the 320 model and will have fitment issues if pump and res can't be moved


----------



## VSG

Unlikely. The res/pump unit looks like it's using a similar O-ring based placement on the radiator as with the current H140/220/240-X units so they are fixed in place.


----------



## Thracks

I'm interested in buying the H240 X2 for my new build. Can anyone let me know what US e-tailers I should be keeping an eye on? Supposedly it'll be in-stock this upcoming week?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thracks*
> 
> I'm interested in buying the H240 X2 for my new build. Can anyone let me know what US e-tailers I should be keeping an eye on? Supposedly it'll be in-stock this upcoming week?


I would watch http://www.performance-pcs.com/ They sell the other Swiftech units.


----------



## NFL

I know that the Prestige units come with dyes; will they also come with a clever way of inserting said dyes or will you have to open up the resevior?


----------



## v1ral

Quick question.
I am wondering if it's possible to "convert" the h220x's pump as a stand alone pump and add the res for the mcp50x, filling and bleeding is starting to become a pain in the bum.
I just expanding my loop to include the Nemesis L Series 360mm radiator temps are great but bleeding the air was a chore.


----------



## Jidonsu

I plan to add an reservoir when I expand my loop to make bleeding, filling, and draining easier. Maybe you can add a g14 barb to the current fill port and add a hose topped with a fill cap to make the job easier.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I plan to add an reservoir when I expand my loop to make bleeding, filling, and draining easier. Maybe you can add a g14 barb to the current fill port and add a hose topped with a fill cap to make the job easier.


Though about that, but i dont have enough space.. i had a 90° fittjng tubing and a stop plug begore addting a 360 rad, space is limited.


----------



## Tim Drake

What are the exact stock fans on the Swiftech H320?

Is it these fans as I would like to do push / pull

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/three-fan-bundle-overclockers-uk-and-silverstone-120mm-fq121wc-watercooling-radiator-fan-bu-023-sv.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> What are the exact stock fans on the Swiftech H320?
> 
> Is it these fans as I would like to do push / pull
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/three-fan-bundle-overclockers-uk-and-silverstone-120mm-fq121wc-watercooling-radiator-fan-bu-023-sv.html


They are Swiftech Helix 120mm PWM fans.
http://www.swiftech.com/Helix120-PWM.aspx


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are Swiftech Helix 120mm PWM fans.
> http://www.swiftech.com/Helix120-PWM.aspx


Know anywhere I can get them in the UK?

Looking to go push / pull


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Know anywhere I can get them in the UK?
> 
> Looking to go push / pull


http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/axial-fans/14137/swiftech-helix-luefter-pwm-120x120x25mm?sPartner=googleshoppinguk&gclid=CjwKEAiAws20BRCs-P-ssLbSlg4SJABbVcDpnsIEyhKK5Zp2CN5Y95iFiujn_mXr0ZWeo_Idm7-qnhoCEjHw_wcB


----------



## navit

Looks like the new coolers are on the Swiftech site or at least the 220x2 version. I wonder if Swiftech will give OCN a discount like they did on the 220x versions when they came out?

https://www.swiftech.com/h220x2prestige.aspx


----------



## Revan654

Any word when the H240 X2 Prestige will go on sale? I can't find any site that has it up for Pre-Order/Sale yet. Want to grab it soon, since EK just recalled my AIO. Not sure if I would trust EK again even with reports that new version still has leaks.

--

One small Question are the fans install on the H240 X2 Prestige worth keeping on or would it be a better idea to get two Noctua fans?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any word when the H240 X2 Prestige will go on sale? I can't find any site that has it up for Pre-Order/Sale yet. Want to grab it soon, since EK just recalled my AIO. Not sure if I would trust EK again even with reports that new version still has leaks.
> 
> --
> 
> One small Question are the fans install on the H240 X2 Prestige worth keeping on or would it be a better idea to get two Noctua fans?


one person is hardly a cause for concern...ek is handling it pretty well... but i gotta say the new prestige versions of the 220x2 are looking nice...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any word when the H240 X2 Prestige will go on sale? I can't find any site that has it up for Pre-Order/Sale yet. Want to grab it soon, since EK just recalled my AIO. Not sure if I would trust EK again even with reports that new version still has leaks.
> 
> --
> 
> One small Question are the fans install on the H240 X2 Prestige worth keeping on or would it be a better idea to get two Noctua fans?


There is little, if any, performance difference between the Helix and Noctua NF-F12. Changing them out to a Noctua is a bit of a waste. GTs, Vardars, eLoops would be an upgrade.


----------



## deehoC

Well I found the answer to my previous question in a HiTechLegion video where they speak to Mr. Rouchon and he says outright that the entire thing is G 1/4" which is great news. Can't wait to see the finalized version of the Apogee SKF and how it performs!


----------



## navit

Swiftech now has stock for sell on their site of the 220-x2 in both versions for those who are interested


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Swiftech now has stock for sell o their site of the 220-x2 in both versions for those who are interested


I might grab later today. I thinking on going wait for the 240 version instead. Wonder when they will start to sell the 240?


----------



## Velathawen

Are there any comparisons out there between Fractal Venturi, Helix and NB Eloops?

Trying to decide between the prestige and regular line if I spring for a 320.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Are there any comparisons out there between Fractal Venturi, Helix and NB Eloops?
> 
> Trying to decide between the prestige and regular line if I spring for a 320.


Eloops are in a class of their own.







but they dont come cheap.

You got elooop helix comparison on thermalbench.com. As for fractal i put no stock in them. So far their fans were garbage.


----------



## Velathawen

Hah yeah, I was looking on Amazon and $30 bucks a pop certainly isn't cheap. Just wanted to see how they translate into a more real world setting since the TT review is much more open than a conventional mid-tower case.

Part of me is wondering if I should even bother upgrading at all. With my current 240x + another 280 rad I think I would be fine for 6700K + SLI 980Ti right? I'm thinking the extra 80mm of rad from 320+280 isn't going to make a night and day difference.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is little, if any, performance difference between the Helix and Noctua NF-F12. Changing them out to a Noctua is a bit of a waste. GTs, Vardars, eLoops would be an upgrade.


Prestige comes with enloops already if you go for that version.
Even going with GT or Vardar is not going to be a big difference over the Enloops or Helix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Eloops are in a class of their own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but they dont come cheap.
> 
> You got elooop helix comparison on thermalbench.com. As for fractal i put no stock in them. So far their fans were garbage.


That was there older fan, not the new Fractal Venturi. Those are a huge improvement.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is little, if any, performance difference between the Helix and Noctua NF-F12. Changing them out to a Noctua is a bit of a waste. GTs, Vardars, eLoops would be an upgrade.


I've run a H240-X unit with Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans and there's a huge difference in both noise levels and performance. The Noctua perform just as well as the Helix, but at a much lower RPM. In fact both Noctua NF-F12 and AF-14 fans do just as well as the Vardar fans. They're more expensive yes, but I'm confident they're also much more sturdy in the long run.


----------



## Revan654

One last question. Hows the build quality on Swiftect AIO? My AIO was just recalled. Not sure if I should jump ship and try Swiftech new AIO or hope for the best and get EK predator 240 version 1.1.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One last question. Hows the build quality on Swiftect AIO? My AIO was just recalled. Not sure if I should jump ship and try Swiftech new AIO or hope for the best and get EK predator 240 version 1.1.


I would honestly go for EKWB for a more reliable less hassle cooler, plus looks, however, if you get the chance to get the swiftech X2 that might be worth your gamble for something that looks better,
but as I see it EKWB is a better company that will honor their words and if they are at fault they will replace anything damaged by their coolers.
I had so much hassle with buying and rmaing everything with swiftech now, I just lost all hope and trust for them. Went through 5 H220s and 2 H220-x which is where I stopped monkeying around with them. Probably the worst QC on an AIO unit. I will admit though their customer support is not too bad though.
Would recommend to never jump the gun with them actually, if you really like the look of swiftechs new cooler wait for some guinea pigs to buy them first and get their 2nd or 3rd revision of it after they fix the issues from the first batch.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> I would honestly go for EKWB for a more reliable less hassle cooler, plus looks, however, if you get the chance to get the swiftech X2 that might be worth your gamble for something that looks better,
> but as I see it EKWB is a better company that will honor their words and if they are at fault they will replace anything damaged by their coolers.
> I had so much hassle with buying and rmaing everything with swiftech now, I just lost all hope and trust for them. Went through 5 H220s and 2 H220-x which is where I stopped monkeying around with them. Probably the worst QC on an AIO unit. I will admit though their customer support is not too bad though.
> Would recommend to never jump the gun with them actually, if you really like the look of swiftechs new cooler wait for some guinea pigs to buy them first and get their 2nd or 3rd revision of it after they fix the issues from the first batch.


I was more concerned that the leak not being fixed yet on EK predator. I love EK as a company, with the recent recall made me doubt if I should stick with their AIO or not.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One last question. Hows the build quality on Swiftect AIO? My AIO was just recalled. Not sure if I should jump ship and try Swiftech new AIO or hope for the best and get EK predator 240 version 1.1.


I presume you're talking about the EK Predator series) Don't get me wrong, Swiftech make excellent products and their customer service is excellent as well. But their first iteration of the H140/220/240-X series had some minor flaws, like a bleed screw that would leak, tubing that would release plasticizer, reservoir window that would crack in transit, and DDC pumps that would either fail or be very noisy at low RPMs. All these faults should have been corrected with the new X2 series though.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I presume you're talking about the EK Predator series) Don't get me wrong, Swiftech make excellent products and their customer service is excellent as well. But their first iteration of the H140/220/240-X series had some minor flaws, like a bleed screw that would leak, tubing that would release plasticizer, reservoir window that would crack in transit, and DDC pumps that would either fail or be very noisy at low RPMs. All these faults should have been corrected with the new X2 series though.


They had the older version with the bleed screw and tubing that got plasticizer but their newer versions after a while was plasticizer free and the bleed screw was removed. After the bleed screw was removed i assumed the reservoir window issue was fixed.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> They had the older version with the bleed screw and tubing that got plasticizer but their newer versions after a while was plasticizer free and the bleed screw was removed. After the bleed screw was removed i assumed the reservoir window issue was fixed.


I was reluctant enough to get the new version of the H220X, and I am with out a doubt confident that these new coolers are good.

The ONLY thing I don't like about the EKWB AIO's are the sizes, that extra MM on the end tanks are just too large. I too was excited about it but for my application, it wouldn't work.

I'm very satisfied with the Helix 120mm PWM fans, they are quiet for me, compared to High speed Yate Loons I used when I had a custom loop in my HAF 932 with lots of radiators 2 MCR320s and 1 MCR220 to be exact. Right now I have 5 120mm and 1 140mm Helix fans and they are great.


----------



## Phelan

This is a bit off-topic, but I haven't been on in quite a while, and thought I'd check in here. Almost 18,000 posts- holy cow.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was more concerned that the leak not being fixed yet on EK predator. I love EK as a company, with the recent recall made me doubt if I should stick with their AIO or not.


The leak is fixed, and ekwb is offering full refund and they will pay for any damages that the cooler could have caused to your other components


----------



## Wam7

I got my H220-X about 6 months ago, it's been great for the most part and relatively quiet, even under full load. During the past month it has now started to make what I can only describe as a quite loud running water/tap sound or bubbling water sound. Is there anyway to return it to the previous sound envelope or is this par for the course from now on in?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I got my H220-X about 6 months ago, it's been great for the most part and relatively quiet, even under full load. During the past month it has now started to make what I can only describe as a quite loud running water/tap sound or bubbling water sound. Is there anyway to return it to the previous sound envelope or is this par for the course from now on in?


you have air trapped...if you can get the air to the fill port you can simply top off the reservoir with distilled water...


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you have air trapped...if you can get the air to the fill port you can simply top off the reservoir with distilled water...


Many thanks for the explanation and solution, though you've taken away the excuse to get the X2 when they arrive on this side of the pond.


----------



## MR-e

Would anyone recommend the new H220 X2/Prestige? I can get a deal on a new H220 X right now, but was wondering if the X2 Prestige is worth the extra premium. Thanks!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Would anyone recommend the new H220 X2/Prestige? I can get a deal on a new H220 X right now, but was wondering if the X2 Prestige is worth the extra premium. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Would anyone recommend the new H220 X2/Prestige? I can get a deal on a new H220 X right now, but was wondering if the X2 Prestige is worth the extra premium. Thanks!


I sold my H220X to a buddy and went with the H220X prestige. in terms of performance, i have nooo idea what im getting into but im sure it cant be bad.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I sold my H220X to a buddy and went with the H220X prestige. in terms of performance, i have nooo idea what im getting into but im sure it cant be bad.


I would expect that you will see a _slight_ increase in performance with noticeably less fan noise. You are essentially looking at the same unit with different aesthetics and fans, with a minor change to the CPU block.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would expect that you will see a _slight_ increase in performance with noticeably less fan noise. You are essentially looking at the same unit with different aesthetics and fans, with a minor change to the CPU block.


sounds about right, but overall im happy about it. im always up for a new look in my case.


----------



## PacificNic

So a few months ago, I ordered my H220X. And I love it. At idle, my computer is dead silent. At 100% load, the pump is certainly audible but it's not bothersome in any way, in my opinion.

I recently caught a deal on some other parts on eBay and will be adding a MCP655-B with a Switech MicroRes and a Swiftech 240mm radiator. This will make refilling the system easier for me in my cramped R4 and will also grant me better peace of mind once I get my GPU block in.

I mention this because I think it's awesome that I can make those additions without needing to dish out for a CPU block, etc. as other people without expandable AIOs would. Anyone on the fence about water cooling should definitely take this product into serious consideration.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would expect that you will see a _slight_ increase in performance with noticeably less fan noise. You are essentially looking at the same unit with different aesthetics and fans, with a minor change to the CPU block.


Would you say the noise level just comes down the the eloop's compared to the helix fans? If so, that's a simple change. I actually prefer the black tubes and cpu block over the clear on the new x2 line. I would hate to have to change the tubes due to them "clouding" over.


----------



## d1One

Does anyone know if the pump on the new X2 series is movable or if its stuck permenantly behind the reservoir? If find it odd that it sticks out a bit.


----------



## ssgtnubb

At first I say its permanet but as with anything I'm sure its modable but you'll probably do damage and take a chance of killing it. In my opinion not worth it, if your wanting to move it you should just consider a full loop instead of a AIO unit.


----------



## PacificNic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1One*
> 
> Does anyone know if the pump on the new X2 series is movable or if its stuck permenantly behind the reservoir? If find it odd that it sticks out a bit.


It looks very similar to the H220X's pump mounting. I'd imagine that you can take it off, but not easily and not within warranty


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, how would you go abouts changing out the tubing for hard line? Do you need to buy that adapter from Swiftech directly? I just ordered a H220X


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, how would you go abouts changing out the tubing for hard line? Do you need to buy that adapter from Swiftech directly? I just ordered a H220X


All the fittings are G 1/4 except the outlet port on the pump. You can order the G 1/4 adapter from Swiftech or Performance PC if you are in the US. Other than that you just need hardline compression fittings and tubing.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> All the fittings are G 1/4 except the outlet port on the pump. You can order the G 1/4 adapter from Swiftech or Performance PC if you are in the US. Other than that you just need hardline compression fittings and tubing.


Thank you, looks like I got the last one from PPCs


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thank you, looks like I got the last one from PPCs


I ordered one this week, should be here next week and they had 2 left at that time. Glad you were able to get the last one.


----------



## deehoC

Thankfully we won't need that extra adapter with the new Prestige line. I still feel a little salty having to pay so much for shipping such a little item to Canada but I couldn't be happier with the product in the end so I guess it was worth it lol


----------



## PacificNic

So long as you use the same fitting on the pump outlet, even once you switch out tubing etc., you don't need the adapter right? It's way out of sight so I don't see the purpose in replacing it - unless you change tubing size or type. Or am I missing something?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PacificNic*
> 
> So long as you use the same fitting on the pump outlet, even once you switch out tubing etc., you don't need the adapter right? It's way out of sight so I don't see the purpose in replacing it - unless you change tubing size or type. Or am I missing something?


The adapter converts it to G 1/4, I'm not sure what it is before hand but it's not G 1/4. I haven't changed mine out yet but I think there is just a barb fitting on the pump outlet.


----------



## PacificNic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The adapter converts it to G 1/4, I'm not sure what it is before hand but it's not G 1/4. I haven't changed mine out yet but I think there is just a barb fitting on the pump outlet.


But assuming that the clamp is re-usable, you could just keep using that barb fitting and not worry about the adapter, right?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PacificNic*
> 
> But assuming that the clamp is re-usable, you could just keep using that barb fitting and not worry about the adapter, right?


The existing barb fitting is for 3/8 x 5/8 tubing so as long as you plan to use that size of tubing, you have no reason to order the adapter. It's only if you prefer to swap to a different tubing size. The clamp is reusable as they are tightened with a small screw.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PacificNic*
> 
> But assuming that the clamp is re-usable, you could just keep using that barb fitting and not worry about the adapter, right?


Yeah I am changing to compression fittings so need the adapter.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Can someone be kind enough to guide me in what i need to watercool my GPU?
Ok, I will receive my H220X-2 Prestige this week, so that will be my cooler, and i have a G1 gigabyte 980ti GPU
what necessary things do i need to get started? PMs are welcomed.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Can someone be kind enough to guide me in what i need to watercool my GPU?
> Ok, I will receive my H220X-2 Prestige this week, so that will be my cooler, and i have a G1 gigabyte 980ti GPU
> what necessary things do i need to get started? PMs are welcomed.


1 GPU block, 2 fittings(either compression or barb+clamp depending on preference), more tubing, your preferred coolant. Basically rule of thumb is every component needs its block, 2 fittings(in and out) and tubing. The exception is when you are doing special setups like multi gpu blocks or ram blocks


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 1 GPU block, 2 fittings(either compression or barb+clamp depending on preference), more tubing, your preferred coolant. Basically rule of thumb is every component needs its block, 2 fittings(in and out) and tubing. The exception is when you are doing special setups like multi gpu blocks or ram blocks


everything he said plus a extra 120 rad.. that was told to me when I added the gpu block.. To handle the heat better


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> 1 GPU block, 2 fittings(either compression or barb+clamp depending on preference), more tubing, your preferred coolant. Basically rule of thumb is every component needs its block, 2 fittings(in and out) and tubing. The exception is when you are doing special setups like multi gpu blocks or ram blocks


i dont wanna ask for too much, but can i get some links( PMs welcomed).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> everything he said plus a extra 120 rad.. that was told to me when I added the gpu block.. To handle the heat better


ok. so i have my rig in the sig, only thing missing is my new cooler to arrive by swiftech, so how would i add another radiator? I sound like a noob lol,


----------



## Danbeme32

Am a noob to depend on your case. I just got the stryker too.but I haven't set it up yet.. I got my rad on the rear of the case..


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Am a noob to depend on your case. I just got the stryker too.but I haven't set it up yet.. I got my rad on the rear of the case..


Thats pretty nice, i see you have a storm trooper case, nice! so how do you take off the tubing from the H220x?


----------



## Danbeme32

they have clamps with screws that you can loosing it up .. which h220x you getting old version or new one..


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> they have clamps with screws that you can loosing it up .. which h220x you getting old version or new one..


I sold the old one to a friend and im going with the h220x prestige......hey i was gonna ask, our case does NOT support 320mm rads right?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I sold the old one to a friend and im going with the h220x prestige......hey i was gonna ask, our case does NOT support 320mm rads right?


320 is to big for me.. the must I'll do is 240.. The h220x prestige has Lok Seal compression fittings so all you have to do is twist it off to take the tube out like the fittings you see in my rig..

I returned a H220x that I brought for another rig so I can get the h220x prestige


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> 320 is to big for me.. the must I'll do is 240.. The h220x prestige has Lok Seal compression fittings so all you have to do is twist it off to take the tube out like the fittings you see in my rig..
> 
> I returned a H220x that I brought for another rig so I can get the h220x prestige


Bice! Outta curiosity tho,why didnt you go with the 240x?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Bice! Outta curiosity tho,why didnt you go with the 240x?


the case that i have when I first brought the H220x could only fit two 120 fans. Now with stryker am going to get the 240x when they have it in stock


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> the case that i have when I first brought the H220x could only fit two 120 fans. Now with stryker am going to get the 240x when they have it in stock


Dang,makes me wanna get the H240x







making me feel regret for the H220X Prestige.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Dang,makes me wanna get the H240x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> making me feel regret for the H220X Prestige.


I has checking it out on Swiftech site. The H240 x should be in stock by the first week of Feb.. So am just going to wait..


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I has checking it out on Swiftech site. The H240 x should be in stock by the first week of Feb.. So am just going to wait..


yea same here,but i couldnt wait. I HATE using this stupid stock cooler on my 4790k!


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> yea same here,but i couldnt wait. I HATE using this stupid stock cooler on my 4790k!


once I switch over to water and added the block for the gpu it's so quiet.. I will not go back to air.. My second rig still uses fans. That is why I brought the stryker to switch it over to water..


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> once I switch over to water and added the block for the gpu it's so quiet.. I will not go back to air.. My second rig still uses fans. That is why I brought the stryker to switch it over to water..


Dude,you gotta help me. We have the same case and will have the same cooler. What gpu do you have? I have a 980ti G1 gigabyte


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Dude,you gotta help me. We have the same case and will have the same cooler. What gpu do you have? I have a 980ti G1 gigabyte


I got a Galaxy GeForce GTX 980 HOF. That is the one with the block on.. And I have a evga 980ti in the other rig.. Plus a asus gtx 980 matrix in it too. That is my folding rig..


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I got a Galaxy GeForce GTX 980 HOF. That is the one with the block on.. And I have a evga 980ti in the other rig.. Plus a asus gtx 980 matrix in it too. That is my folding rig..


wth is a "folding" rig? I just saw vidsof detaching the gpu, i understand that concept, but noone shows how to install the tubes to the gpu running from the cpu to the rad and all that good stuff. That is where i am lost.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wth is a "folding" rig? I just saw vidsof detaching the gpu, i understand that concept, but noone shows how to install the tubes to the gpu running from the cpu to the rad and all that good stuff. That is where i am lost.


Here is a good helper for me.. It has some videos and guides on water cooling. i had to do a lot of research before I expanded my loop..

http://www.overclock.net/t/913181/water-cooling-guide-for-noobs-always-updated


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Here is a good helper for me.. It has some videos and guides on water cooling. i had to do a lot of research before I expanded my loop..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/913181/water-cooling-guide-for-noobs-always-updated


Thats alot of reading lol. Thanks tho.But that doesnt help me much. Im going to loop with the h220x prestige. or i cant do that?


----------



## Jidonsu

https://folding.stanford.edu/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wth is a "folding" rig? I just saw vidsof detaching the gpu, i understand that concept, but noone shows how to install the tubes to the gpu running from the cpu to the rad and all that good stuff. That is where i am lost.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> https://folding.stanford.edu/


Not to sound mean because im truly not....But what is the tue purpose of this and who does this?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Thats alot of reading lol. Thanks tho.But that doesnt help me much. Im going to loop with the h220x prestige. or i cant do that?


Yes you can..the way I have mine is h22ox outlet of the pump > cpu block > rad> gpu > back to h220x. I had to add the tubing when I had everything in place to take the measurements .. its a processes that I learned a lot. Make sure to drain out the h220x I used distilled water with PT nuke. Swiftech uses their own coolant but I dont think they sale for refilling the loop.
But next time I clean my loop am going to use EKWB EVO Clear Premix..


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Not to sound mean because im truly not....But what is the tue purpose of this and who does this?


A lot of people do, apparently. Simply put, proteins do just about everything in your body. This is not a complete picture, but a protein's three dimensional structure dictates what it does. It affects how it carries out reactions in your body, and it affects how it interacts with other molecules. For example, sarin gas is a irreversible inhibitor that blocks the function of acetylcholinesterase, a crucial enzyme (which are proteins) in your nervous system. Disrupting that enzyme basically makes you spasm to death.

The problem is we don't fully understand how proteins fold and how it can go wrong. Life is amazing that way. Nature has all this **** figured out and does it without thinking twice, and we're just scratching the surface. To calculate the infinitely many conformations and determine the lowest energy state, thus normally the most stable, requires a ton of computing power. You can see how a distributed computing system like [email protected] can increase the computing power available to scientists. I assume it also allows them to allocate hard to get funding to other areas. They can farm out work that requires computing power, but they can't exactly farm out wet work.

Again, that's a pretty simple explanation. I'm sure there are tons of resources on the topic out there.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Not to sound mean because im truly not....But what is the tue purpose of this and who does this?


for me. when am not using my rig I fold to help scientists find a cure. it is like am donating my pc to help scientists calculate protein so it can help them find a cure. My dad just past away because of Alzheimer's.. So hopefully one day they can help some one with a cure.. Thats for me. Why I do it..


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Not to sound mean because im truly not....But what is the tue purpose of this and who does this?


its for a good cause purely(unless you're folding with EVGA, where EVGA will give you points for product discounts). It's pretty much the oppisite of cryptocurrency mining, which is for self benefit. [email protected] is for research for potential cures, utilizing peoples PC's to do complex computation rather than having a school invest in a super computer to do it. OCN houses many teams that [email protected] it has its own subforum.


----------



## MR-e

In terms of aesthetics, if I were to replace the rubber tubing with Acrylic, change the coolant to say EK clear coolant. Do you think the water would turn yellow over time? This is for a H220 X


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> In terms of aesthetics, if I were to replace the rubber tubing with Acrylic, change the coolant to say EK clear coolant. Do you think the water would turn yellow over time? This is for a H220 X


assuming you change all the fittings too(because you have to if you want to use acrylic), you would remove plasticizer growth, but discoloring would eventually be caused by bacterial growth(assuming you didn't use a form of anti-bacterial deterrent). Regardless, by the time the liquid discolors, you should have already replace the liquid


----------



## InsideJob

I just got my komodo r9 LE in today and should have the rest of the stuff to add my GPU to the H220-X next week. I can't remember and don't wanna look back, is it okay to use Mayhems pastel coolant with these units?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I just got my komodo r9 LE in today and should have the rest of the stuff to add my GPU to the H220-X next week. I can't remember and don't wanna look back, is it okay to use Mayhems pastel coolant with these units?


if I remember that and the aurora were both on the "void a warranty" list due to potential build up on the impeller and such... Btw if you were going for a red led look you might want to create a strip that is truly red unless they've fixed it the steps looked orange instead of red...the blue and green look as expected though (on the komodo block)


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> assuming you change all the fittings too(because you have to if you want to use acrylic), you would remove plasticizer growth, but discoloring would eventually be caused by bacterial growth(assuming you didn't use a form of anti-bacterial deterrent). Regardless, by the time the liquid discolors, you should have already replace the liquid


I would be changing out the entire tube + fittings to the acrylic or petg equivalent. I believe the ek clear is a rebranded mayhems x1 so it should contain corrosion inhibitors + anti bio properties. My concern would be whether the coolant would discolour within a few weeks as opposed to the yearly maintenance.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I would be changing out the entire tube + fittings to the acrylic or petg equivalent. I believe the ek clear is a rebranded mayhems x1 so it should contain corrosion inhibitors + anti bio properties. My concern would be whether the coolant would discolour within a few weeks as opposed to the yearly maintenance.


logically, it shouldn't. This of course assumes that all parts are clean and flushed out well.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Alright guys, i get my new swiftech h220X prestige tomorrow, does anyone want pics or info on it?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Alright guys, i get my new swiftech h220X prestige tomorrow, does anyone want pics or info on it?


I would like pics and your thoughts on build quality.


----------



## navit

Here are a couple of phone pics.
Build quality is great although tubing is stiff.
Ran Intel burn and highest temp on any core was
66c, lowest was 60 and idles in the 20's.
Pump is running @ 2100 rpm set to Manual in the bios
and with my case fans set to low it is very quiet.
Cpu temp by itself is 24c . Setup the RGB's on my reset button and there are lots to play with.
Would have thought the Dye would have been darker though.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of phone pics.
> Build quality is great although tubing is stiff.
> Ran Intel burn and highest temp on any core was
> 66c, lowest was 60 and idles in the 20's.
> Pump is running @ 2100 rpm set to Manual in the bios
> and with my case fans set to low it is very quiet.
> Cpu temp by itself is 24c


Looks good.
How are your temps compared to your previous cooler?


----------



## navit

about 3c lower







and I really just got it setup like 20 min ago so we will see if it gets any better as it runs.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> about 3c lower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I really just got it setup like 20 min ago so we will see if it gets any better as it runs.


Sweet


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of phone pics.
> Build quality is great although tubing is stiff.
> Ran Intel burn and highest temp on any core was
> 66c, lowest was 60 and idles in the 20's.
> Pump is running @ 2100 rpm set to Manual in the bios
> and with my case fans set to low it is very quiet.
> Cpu temp by itself is 24c . Setup the RGB's on my reset button and there are lots to play with.
> Would have thought the Dye would have been darker though.


Awesome,ill be building mine tomorrow in my storm stryker case,cant wait!


----------



## MR-e

Very nice, let us know if the tubing clouds or discolours over time!

You kinda stole dry bonez's thunder though, haha


----------



## Velathawen

Do the new units have the same drain system with the screw on the side? I'm trying to plan out how I will drain everything when I add an extra rad and card to the loop down the line.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Do the new units have the same drain system with the screw on the side? I'm trying to plan out how I will drain everything when I add an extra rad and card to the loop down the line.


yes, the units still have the G1/4 threaded fillport on the side


----------



## NIK1

On the H240 prestige it has 140mm NB-eLoop Fans. Does anyone think these work better than the swiftech helix 140mm fans. If so, I might get a couple for my H240x..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> On the H240 prestige it has 140mm NB-eLoop Fans. Does anyone think these work better than the swiftech helix 140mm fans. If so, I might get a couple for my H240x..


They are a little quieter. Performance may, or may not see a measurable gain depending on your system. In a perfect world, you would see a _slight_ performance increase.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are a little quieter. Performance may, or may not see a measurable gain depending on your system. In a perfect world, you would see a _slight_ performance increase.


I snagged up some helix fans for the rad I picked up...it's a 60mm rad but I think they will do ok as it's a phobya g changer 480 so it is pretty low restriction... Ppcs has them for 5.99 sleeved was ten bucks each..not bad


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I snagged up some helix fans for the rad I picked up...it's a 60mm rad but I think they will do ok as it's a phobya g changer 480 so it is pretty low restriction... Ppcs has them for 5.99 sleeved was ten bucks each..not bad


The Helix fans are really underrated. Very good fans overall, and an incredible bang for the buck.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Helix fans are really underrated. Very good fans overall, and an incredible bang for the buck.


I agree, I got helix fans in my pc and just added a nemesis L Series 360 to my H220x and it runs very well.


----------



## delpy8

The Helix fans are really underrated. Very good fans overall, and an incredible bang for the buck.[/quote]

I agree the helix fans work very well and are quiet


----------



## MR-e

Aren't the Helix based on the GT 1850 fans? I have a bunch of those left but no pwm


----------



## Kutalion

Gts are still way better. Best fans still. Much better bearing and motor.


----------



## kevindd992002

Do you guys have any ideas on my thread here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1588399/h220x-pump-replacement-process

Thanks.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Very nice, let us know if the tubing clouds or discolours over time!
> 
> You kinda stole dry bonez's thunder though, haha


lol Nah man. Its all good, we are here to support and give info. Its always good to have different configurations,i get mine today and will install by end of today with reports on how installation went and everything. My rig is in the sig if anyone wonders.









Question, i never done anything with DYE, do i have to put that? can i just install it without having to put in dye? and also, lets say i do install it without any dye, do i have to unmount it just to put in dye as well?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> lol Nah man. Its all good, we are here to support and give info. Its always good to have different configurations,i get mine today and will install by end of today with reports on how installation went and everything. My rig is in the sig if anyone wonders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question, i never done anything with DYE, do i have to put that? can i just install it without having to put in dye? and also, lets say i do install it without any dye, do i have to unmount it just to put in dye as well?


Before I installed I took off the fill cap and put the blue dye in, couldn't even get it all in there it was so full then put the cap right back on, no problems.








Word of advice, you can use your back plate from your 220x but you will need to use the little nuts that come on the new one, they act as standoffs.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of phone pics.
> Build quality is great although tubing is stiff.
> Ran Intel burn and highest temp on any core was
> 66c, lowest was 60 and idles in the 20's.
> Pump is running @ 2100 rpm set to Manual in the bios
> and with my case fans set to low it is very quiet.
> Cpu temp by itself is 24c . Setup the RGB's on my reset button and there are lots to play with.
> Would have thought the Dye would have been darker though.


Hows the tubing? From all the pictures tubing looks cheap compared to something like EK's Predator.


----------



## navit

Tubing and the dye are Mayhems, take what you can from that. I think they are fine and my Pics aren't the best


----------



## Tim Drake

Yesterday I discovered how flimsy copper fins are compared to aluminium D:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Tubing and the dye are Mayhems, take what you can from that. I think they are fine and my Pics aren't the best


Photos are fine. I think I'll stick with EK, It just seems better built.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Yesterday I discovered how flimsy copper fins are compared to aluminium D:


Mostly because of how thin they are, and that also means you can bend them back into place rather easily also. It won't be perfect looking, but it sure won't affect performance either.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Alright,got my H220X 2 Prestige installed in a CM Storm Stryker case. Decided not to fill any dye in but will later on down the road. Anyway, take a look.


----------



## Dry Bonez

I have had it installed for about 2 hours now and immediately OC'd my 4790k to 4.7 and does NOT go above 55c using MX 4 for anyone wondering. Installation was a bit weird because they dont tell you how to remove the screw from the back plate. I had to use a wrench and twist it, other than that,it was straight forward until i reached the block itself because of the tubing being so tight and this time(compared to regular H220X) they are a bit longer. I am satisfied with this unit. Although i cant figure out the LED switching using the reset switch, which i took out from my case and put it with no success. Performance wise there is little gain but i can assure you it is definately there.


----------



## kevindd992002

How much of a gain over the H220X?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How much of a gain over the H220X?


Well, in terms of sheer performance and temps, i would say more than 5 degrees for me. When i had the regular H220X with my 4790k @ 4.7,i would hover around 62-65 (call of duty..batman,etc).I am now no lower than 56. I am doing more testing as i type this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Well, in terms of sheer performance and temps, i would say more than 5 degrees for me. When i had the regular H220X with my 4790k @ 4.7,i would hover around 62-65 (call of duty..batman,etc).I am now no lower than 56. I am doing more testing as i type this.


That's definitely an improvement then. How did you get yours ahead of the release date?


----------



## jincuteguy

Where can you order
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Well, in terms of sheer performance and temps, i would say more than 5 degrees for me. When i had the regular H220X with my 4790k @ 4.7,i would hover around 62-65 (call of duty..batman,etc).I am now no lower than 56. I am doing more testing as i type this.


Usually a new cooler will always yield a bit better performance when you first installed it compare to the one you been using.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Gts are still way better. Best fans still. Much better bearing and motor.


Do you know where I can order those GTs fan anymore? thx.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's definitely an improvement then. How did you get yours ahead of the release date?


Yes, it is definately awesome. Now i just need to figure out how to do the LED thingy and put my GPU in the loop


----------



## Dry Bonez

This is me playing batman arkham knight( run butter smoothe for me), at Max settings. and when i say max,i mean MAX, everything turned on in highest settings with a 980TI @ 1440p resolution.

Oh and been playing around 30 mins now.
Also,i forgot to show now that i look at the pic, but the cpu voltage is at 1.267


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you know where I can order those GTs fan anymore? thx.


Europe highflow.nl in us/canada darkside.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Where can you order
> Usually a new cooler will always yield a bit better performance when you first installed it compare to the one you been using.


Of course. Combo of fresh TIM and the power of suggestion.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you know where I can order those GTs fan anymore? thx.


So you know, you wont see a noticeable difference from stock fans using GT.
As the rad on H220X is quite low already, there is little restriction of airflow.


----------



## MR-e

He may get improvements elsewhere, ie db levels. the 1850 GT's from Darkside can be pwm controlled down to 550 rpm. The helix go to 800 rpm as per spec sheets.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> He may get improvements elsewhere, ie db levels. the 1850 GT's from Darkside can be pwm controlled down to 550 rpm. The helix go to 800 rpm as per spec sheets.


Both being at 800rpm is no difference that you can hear.
Helix can go lower than 800 rpm. Had it down to 450rpm.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> This is me playing batman arkham knight( run butter smoothe for me), at Max settings. and when i say max,i mean MAX, everything turned on in highest settings with a 980TI @ 1440p resolution.
> 
> Oh and been playing around 30 mins now.
> Also,i forgot to show now that i look at the pic, but the cpu voltage is at 1.267


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> So you know, you wont see a noticeable difference from stock fans using GT.
> As the rad on H220X is quite low already, there is little restriction of airflow.


\

I dont have the H220X, i have the H240X, do they have the same Rad except the size? And what do you mean is quite low already? Like were you referrring to the FPI or u mean the thickness of the Rad is low?


----------



## Kutalion

Both thickness and fpi are low. But if you got 240x, go for eloop 140s, they are monterously good. But 29mm thick.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Both thickness and fpi are low. But if you got 240x, go for eloop 140s, they are monterously good. But 29mm thick.


You mean NoiseBlocker eloop fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I dont have the H220X, i have the H240X, do they have the same Rad except the size? And what do you mean is quite low already? Like were you referrring to the FPI or u mean the thickness of the Rad is low?


H220X, H240X and H320X all are the same rad all have 12fpi. Just different size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Both thickness and fpi are low. But if you got 240x, go for eloop 140s, they are monterously good. But 29mm thick.


They wont be cheap, looking at over $60. Are you going to notice a difference, maybe. But unlikely.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> \
> 
> I dont have the H220X, i have the H240X, do they have the same Rad except the size? And what do you mean is quite low already? Like were you referrring to the FPI or u mean the thickness of the Rad is low?


I didnt mention anything on the rad, that was some other user


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You mean NoiseBlocker eloop fans?


Indeed i do. Very good perf/noise ratio, id dare say best. Dont come cheap tho as junkie mentioned. But great build quality too.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Indeed i do. Very good perf/noise ratio, id dare say best. Dont come cheap tho as junkie mentioned. But great build quality too.


I thought Noctua fans are better for performance / noise ratio?


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I thought Noctua fans are better for performance / noise ratio?


Popular belief, they got nothing on eloops. A14s are ok tho in 140mm departament, but i find most noctua 120mm fans rather lacking in perf/noise compared to eloops, Gentle typhoons, Ek vardars, silverstone Fm121s etc. Dont have much experience with 14cm fans tho.


----------



## Velathawen

Do you guys reckon a 240X2 would fit in the mobo chamber of the node 804? Website list compatibility up to 140mm clearance but I just wanted to get a second opinion before pulling the trigger.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Do you guys reckon a 240X2 would fit in the mobo chamber of the node 804? Website list compatibility up to 140mm clearance but I just wanted to get a second opinion before pulling the trigger.


No will not fit. Main chamber top is 240mm rad and right chamber is 280mm rad on top.
140mm clearance is just for fans.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Do you guys reckon a 240X2 would fit in the mobo chamber of the node 804? Website list compatibility up to 140mm clearance but I just wanted to get a second opinion before pulling the trigger.


From looking at pics of the case it looks like your only limitations are the hard drive racks, If you relocate them it looks like you have all the room you will ever need.


----------



## Velathawen

I talked with my friend and I think we're doing H220X in the mobo chamber and another 280 down the road when he adds the GPU to the loop. He plans to use 1 SSD and 1 mechanical, so they should fit like in this picture. in the PSU chamber. We won't be able to use the velcro straps but he's running pretty light on hardware and planning to use a 850 G2 so it shouldn't be too bad.


----------



## Revan654

Has their been anymore reviews on the X2 series? I would be interesting to see how it compares to other AIO on the market currently.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Has their been anymore reviews on the X2 series? I would be interesting to see how it compares to other AIO on the market currently.


rewview for the H320x2 Prestige Here, but there are no side by side comparisons. just stock vs OC

Proclockers normal 220x2 review


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> rewview for the H320x2 Prestige Here, but there are no side by side comparisons. just stock vs OC
> 
> Proclockers normal 220x2 review


Would love how it would stack up to say EK Predator. I know it was just released, but their should be more then just two reviews.

btw, Hows the eloop fans compare to EK vardar fans(Cooling & Noise)?

Those reviews seem a bit iffy, Shouldn't the 320 out perform the 220?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Would love how it would stack up to say EK Predator. I know it was just released, but their should be more then just two reviews.
> 
> btw, Hows the eloop fans compare to EK vardar fans(Cooling & Noise)?
> 
> Those reviews seem a bit iffy, Shouldn't the 320 out perform the 220?


Well.....the H220-X had better performance and was quieter than the Predator 240 in every test done by a reputable independent. This one promises to be better, so.....

And it's a Pro Clockers review. I wouldn't put much weight to it.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well.....the H220-X had better performance and was quieter than the Predator 240 in every test done by a reputable independent. This one promises to be better, so.....


CAn you give me the link to the H220-X vs Predator 240 reputable independent review? Or what reviewer is it so i can look them up on google?

Also, I just don't get why the Swiftech H220-X has better performance than the EK Predator 240 when the EK Predator has better parts and quality?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> CAn you give me the link to the H220-X vs Predator 240 reputable independent review? Or what reviewer is it so i can look them up on google?
> 
> Also, I just don't get why the Swiftech H220-X has better performance than the EK Predator 240 when the EK Predator has better parts and quality?


I have no idea where you got this better parts and quality bit you keep harping on. The fact that the name EK is stamped on it does not make it better. The EK slim rads are pretty lousy (see the Extreme Rigs write ups), the MX block isn't great and the pump is less powerful. How does that add up to "better"? The fact that you bought the Predator also does not make it "better".

Frankly, you have been totally biased in all your posts on the matter. Not going to waste my time finding review links.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have no idea where you got this better parts and quality bit you keep harping on. The fact that the name EK is stamped on it does not make it better. The EK slim rads are pretty lousy (see the Extreme Rigs write ups), the MX block isn't great and the pump is less powerful. How does that add up to "better"? The fact that you bought the Predator also does not make it "better".
> 
> Frankly, you have been totally biased in all your posts on the matter. Not going to waste my time finding review links.


if I had to compare the two the predator looks much more streamlined but the swiftech has price performance win and a reservoir you can actually see the levels in


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have no idea where you got this better parts and quality bit you keep harping on. The fact that the name EK is stamped on it does not make it better. The EK slim rads are pretty lousy (see the Extreme Rigs write ups), the MX block isn't great and the pump is less powerful. How does that add up to "better"? The fact that you bought the Predator also does not make it "better".
> 
> Frankly, you have been totally biased in all your posts on the matter. Not going to waste my time finding review links.


I didn't buy the Predator dude, I am using the Swiftech H240-X in my pc for almost a year now. People on here said the EK Predator is better quality, I didn't say that, I was just rephrasing what ppl told me on here so that's why I thought EK Predator is better quality?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I didn't buy the Predator dude, I am using the Swiftech H240-X in my pc for almost a year now. People on here said the EK Predator is better quality, I didn't say that, I was just rephrasing what ppl told me on here so that's why I thought EK Predator is better quality?


Sorry, I thought the reply was to Revan. Danger of posting from my phone.

I'll find you a couple of review links when I get to a desktop.


----------



## Revan654

I'm in the boat where I can get a new AIO due to recall with EK. I have a choice of getting a new AIO from Swiftech or just allow EK to replace it. Either way I wouldn't be paying anything extra.

I want to go with the AIO that will give me the best temps, very quiet (Most likely be running it at around 1000 to 1200 RPM) and will last for a long while.

for example what should I expect using stock speed on i7 5960x with XMP enabled ram?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm in the boat where I can get a new AIO due to recall with EK. I have a choice of getting a new AIO from Swiftech or just allow EK to replace it. Either way I wouldn't be paying anything extra.
> 
> I want to go with the AIO that will give me the best temps, very quiet (Most likely be running it at around 1000 to 1200 RPM) and will last for a long while.
> 
> for example what should I expect using stock speed on i7 5960x with XMP enabled ram?


noise is relative to fan speed. According to TPU EK Vardar fans are only noise optimal at low fan pwm %. anything past 50%, swiftech Helix' are superior noise wise(due to lower max RPM). Given that, Prestige's noiseblocker fans are supposed to be quieter then the helix, its a given that at least at low %, noise blockers are more silent then both helix' and vardars, I don't know how noiseblockers sound at higher pitches, so I cant say what it will sound like at high rpms.


----------



## rfarmer

Decided to upgrade my H220-X loop.

Old setup


New setup


Replaced the 120mm radiator with a 240mm and the barb fittings on the 220 with Swiftech adapters and compression fittings. Also decided to go with distilled water and PTNuke.

Temps weren't bad before but I was hoping for a bit better, 60C for cpu during stress testing and 55C for the gpu on first setup. Temps have dropped 5C overall with the bigger radiator.

I also got 2 more Helix fans for the front radiator. I am very happy with the Helix, especially price wise.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Decided to upgrade my H220-X loop.
> 
> Old setup
> 
> 
> New setup
> 
> 
> Replaced the 120mm radiator with a 240mm and the barb fittings on the 220 with Swiftech adapters and compression fittings. Also decided to go with distilled water and PTNuke.
> 
> Temps weren't bad before but I was hoping for a bit better, 60C for cpu during stress testing and 55C for the gpu on first setup. Temps have dropped 5C overall with the bigger radiator.
> 
> I also got 2 more Helix fans for the front radiator. I am very happy with the Helix, especially price wise.


Nice man, did you have to flush everything with distilled water before you put in new distilled water and pt nuke? And is PT nuke enough or do you need other anti
****?

Also, did you get any better temps with the extra Rad added in?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice man, did you have to flush everything with distilled water before you put in new distilled water and pt nuke? And is PT nuke enough or do you need other anti ****?


I flushed everything with water and vinegar, and I am hoping PTNuke is enough.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I flushed everything with water and vinegar, and I am hoping PTNuke is enough.


YOu don't flush it with distilled water and vinegar? But did you mix vinegar with water and flush it? or you flush each separately?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> YOu don't flush it with distilled water and vinegar? But did you mix vinegar with water and flush it? or you flush each separately?


10% vinegar and 90% distilled water.


----------



## MR-e

Guys, when installing the H220x, do you screw down the CPU block all the way? Or just enough to feel tight?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys, when installing the H220x, do you screw down the CPU block all the way? Or just enough to feel tight?


Mine went all the way to the stops on all 4 screws. Seems to be tight enough.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Mine went all the way to the stops on all 4 screws. Seems to be tight enough.


Ok I'll try going all the way in, hope no #bendlake









Sure beats going in with just the tip, haha


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys, when installing the H220x, do you screw down the CPU block all the way? Or just enough to feel tight?


The Apogee XL has very distinct stop points on the screws. You tighten them until they stop an _do not use force after the stop point is reached_.

Check the install section -


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's definitely an improvement then. How did you get yours ahead of the release date?


sorry just saw this message,wasnt aware of it. I got tis cooler through the official site, although i was checking on it EVERY day since i was on a stock cooler and needed something in time for rise of tomb raider









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Where can you order
> Usually a new cooler will always yield a bit better performance when you first installed it compare to the one you been using.


Wait a minute, are you saying that over time i will get decreasing temps and performance? Can you please elaborate on this because maybe i am understanding wrong.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course. Combo of fresh TIM and the power of suggestion.


Do you think it will decrease over time?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Also, i will be adding much higher resolution pics for everyone of the H220X2 in my build. Still deciding ehether or not i should add in the dyes onto the loop idk yet.

One last question/concern, are the Eloop noiseblockers supposed to make alot of sound when in full speed? For some reason to me they are louder than the helix when both are on max.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> sorry just saw this message,wasnt aware of it. I got tis cooler through the official site, although i was checking on it EVERY day since i was on a stock cooler and needed something in time for rise of tomb raider
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a minute, are you saying that over time i will get decreasing temps and performance? Can you please elaborate on this because maybe i am understanding wrong.
> Do you think it will decrease over time?


It will decrease if you get gunk in your block, that would be about it. Otherwise it is purely that people _want_ to believe it is better, and that people rarely know how to (or have access to) consistent, controlled testing methods. So, the exact same results get skewed in the mind to becoming "3-5 degrees better".

It's a Fox Mulder thing......


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Yeah the biggest issue I've seen with that is people week test on two different days months apart when they change coolers and praise be thy name who gave them 4c lower temperatures....when really it was transition into fall or winter that's why I'm a fan of delta over ambient...


----------



## InsideJob

I upgraded my H220-X earlier this week. Added a komodo to the R9 290 and an additional 120mm rad. Going to have to drain and refill this week with my mayhems pastel green when I get the rest of the parts in.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Apogee XL has very distinct stop points on the screws. You tighten them until they stop an _do not use force after the stop point is reached_.
> 
> Check the install section -


Distinct stop is when the screw is all the way down.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Also, i will be adding much higher resolution pics for everyone of the H220X2 in my build. Still deciding ehether or not i should add in the dyes onto the loop idk yet.
> 
> One last question/concern, are the Eloop noiseblockers supposed to make alot of sound when in full speed? For some reason to me they are louder than the helix when both are on max.


If you don't care about color, I wouldn't dyes sometimes have the habit of junking up the tubing and block.

I believe eloops have a higher db at higher RPM's.

Quick question how are the temps on H220-x2? I not sure if I should go with EK 240 or grab H220-x2/H240-X2.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If you don't care about color, I wouldn't dyes sometimes have the habit of junking up the tubing and block.
> 
> I believe eloops have a higher db at higher RPM's.
> 
> Quick question how are the temps on H220-x2? I not sure if I should go with EK 240 or grab H220-x2/H240-X2.


Well dang,if its like that i wont put in dyes then









That explains the loudness then

New cooler or not, but i ALWAYS monitor temps and compared to my old H220X, the H220X2 is a much much better option. I personally see much better gains in performance. NOW my 4790k doesnt even reach 60.... Yes,granted its cold season(FL,USA) but still,i am happy with my purchase and thats what matters,right? Plus it looks sexy as all heck


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Well dang,if its like that i wont put in dyes then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That explains the loudness then
> 
> New cooler or not, but i ALWAYS monitor temps and compared to my old H220X, the H220X2 is a much much better option. I personally see much better gains in performance. NOW my 4790k doesnt even reach 60.... Yes,granted its cold season(FL,USA) but still,i am happy with my purchase and thats what matters,right? Plus it looks sexy as all heck


That is exactly what matters.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Well dang,if its like that i wont put in dyes then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That explains the loudness then
> 
> New cooler or not, but i ALWAYS monitor temps and compared to my old H220X, the H220X2 is a much much better option. I personally see much better gains in performance. NOW my 4790k doesnt even reach 60.... Yes,granted its cold season(FL,USA) but still,i am happy with my purchase and thats what matters,right? Plus it looks sexy as all heck


Are you sure that the H220X2 Prestige is better than your old H220-X? The only difference is the fans and that's it, i think everything else is pretty much the same?

Also, right now I'm using the H240-X atm for almost a year now. Do you guys think the pump that comes with it can handle another 360 Rad 60mm thick and 1 gpu block without problem? Im just not sure how strong / good is the pump that comes with the H240-X.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you sure that the H220X2 Prestige is better than your old H220-X? The only difference is the fans and that's it, i think everything else is pretty much the same?
> 
> Also, right now I'm using the H240-X atm for almost a year now. Do you guys think the pump that comes with it can handle another 360 Rad 60mm thick and 1 gpu block without problem? Im just not sure how strong / good is the pump that comes with the H240-X.


Apogee™ XL2 is the new cpu block being used.

I have a H220-X and have an additional 240mm rad and gpu block, pump handles it just fine.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Apogee™ XL2 is the new cpu block being used.
> 
> I have a H220-X and have an additional 240mm rad and gpu block, pump handles it just fine.


Nice man. Do you know what is the tube size that used in the H240-X? I'm assumed it's the same tube size with the H220-X?
So I can buy some clear tube and add a gpu block and a 360 Rad.

Also, you know that black barb fitting that comes with the H220-X / H240-X, can I replace them with compression fittings? I know the CPU Block takes G1/4, but I'm not
sure about the In / Out from the pump / Res unit combo on the H240-X?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you sure that the H220X2 Prestige is better than your old H220-X? The only difference is the fans and that's it, i think everything else is pretty much the same?
> 
> Also, right now I'm using the H240-X atm for almost a year now. Do you guys think the pump that comes with it can handle another 360 Rad 60mm thick and 1 gpu block without problem? Im just not sure how strong / good is the pump that comes with the H240-X.


Im positive, as i said before, i have had my H220X since launch(1st batch) with old tubing before they upgraded it. And my temps are NOTHING compared to when i had my H220X 1st gen. But i will not dispute/argue about a 1 degree difference, but to me, i cant speak for anyone else, i notice quite a big difference and i for one am happy with my purchase. I used to think the other H220x looked so sexy,but compared to this prestige? stands no chance in looks or performance(for me). I stress this because this is my personal experience, coming from someone who has had the H220X since august 2014 since launch.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice man. Do you know what is the tube size that used in the H240-X? I'm assumed it's the same tube size with the H220-X?
> So I can buy some clear tube and add a gpu block and a 360 Rad.
> 
> Also, you know that black barb fitting that comes with the H220-X / H240-X, can I replace them with compression fittings? I know the CPU Block takes G1/4, but I'm not
> sure about the In / Out from the pump / Res unit combo on the H240-X?


The stock tubing is 3/8 x 5/8. One port of the pump is G1/4, the other requires an adapter that Swiftech sells for ~$5. However, if you are staying with 3/8 x 5/8, you can leave the stock barb on the pump outlet since you can't see the fitting after installation.

And, yes, the pump is plenty powerful for 2-3 blocks and a few rads. Beyond 3 blocks an additional or stronger pump is advised.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The stock tubing is 3/8 x 5/8. One port of the pump is G1/4, the other requires an adapter that Swiftech sells for ~$5. However, if you are staying with 3/8 x 5/8, you can leave the stock barb on the pump outlet since you can't see the fitting after installation.
> 
> And, yes, the pump is plenty powerful for 2-3 blocks and a few rads. Beyond 3 blocks an additional or stronger pump is advised.


Yeah I went to the trouble and expense of replacing the pump outlet and installing compression fittings and it sits behind the pump and you can't see it at all. Oh well I guess I know it is there.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah I went to the trouble and expense of replacing the pump outlet and installing compression fittings and it sits behind the pump and you can't see it at all. Oh well I guess I know it is there.


So the pump OUtlet that I have to get the adapter. What about the pump Inlet? Is it G1/4?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So the pump OUtlet that I have to get the adapter. What about the pump Inlet? Is it G1/4?


Yes, it is G1/4.


----------



## MR-e

DAMN IT! Building my sig rig and I mounted the H220X to the front of my SilverStone PS07B, my video card is blocked by the pump by about 5 cm! I need a new case or EK Predator









Do you guys think a Node 804 + Trident Z memory will have clearance issues with the H220X mounted up top?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> DAMN IT! Building my sig rig and I mounted the H220X to the front of my SilverStone PS07B, my video card is blocked by the pump by about 5 cm! I need a new case or EK Predator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys think a Node 804 + Trident Z memory will have clearance issues with the H220X mounted up top?


did you install it as is or did you try to offset the radiator (by moving the center screws up one, so that only 2 of the screws are holding the radiator to the case)

edit: now looking in my case, its probably not going to happen haha. When I picked it out, I was very specific on knowing if I could fit the OG H220 in it, knowing that a 220x probably wouldn't fit.


----------



## v1ral

Is there a mod to dismantle the stock H220X pump and use it as a stand alone pump?

I don't know if I posted pictures but here are a few...


Expanded with a Nemesis L Series 360 Radiator...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> DAMN IT! Building my sig rig and I mounted the H220X to the front of my SilverStone PS07B, my video card is blocked by the pump by about 5 cm! I need a new case or EK Predator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys think a Node 804 + Trident Z memory will have clearance issues with the H220X mounted up top?


Doesn't turning the H220-X around (so that the pump is at the bottom) solve this?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Doesn't turning the H220-X around (so that the pump is at the bottom) solve this?


No, I tried that but the fill port causes the mounting holes not to line up


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Sorry, that does suck. Node 804 mounting is offset so you will have clearance.
Can look at the Phantekx Evolv mATX


----------



## InsideJob

Is there a way to get at the inside of the res window? Mines got a bit of build up I wouldnt mind cleaning off when it's empty.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Would you guys say that if the window of my H240-X is cloudy and not clear that maybe it is time to clean it out? My temps are still good but I am a little concerned.
If it needs cleaning then I may wait a few weeks because I am thinking about getting either the H320X2 Prestige or the H240X2 Prestige.

I am just about ready to attempt my first custom loop with my MB (Rampage IV Black Ed) added in with this XPSC Waterblock set. I may also in fact try to wait a little longer and get a back plate for my GTX 980 so I can also add that in.

If I were to add my 980 to the mix would the H320X2 Radiator be enough to keep it nice and cool or should I get another rad?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Would you guys say that if the window of my H240-X is cloudy and not clear that maybe it is time to clean it out? My temps are still good but I am a little concerned.
> If it needs cleaning then I may wait a few weeks because I am thinking about getting either the H320X2 Prestige or the H240X2 Prestige.
> 
> I am just about ready to attempt my first custom loop with my MB (Rampage IV Black Ed) added in with this XPSC Waterblock set. I may also in fact try to wait a little longer and get a back plate for my GTX 980 so I can also add that in.
> 
> If I were to add my 980 to the mix would the H320X2 Radiator be enough to keep it nice and cool or should I get another rad?


Quote:
If you are planning on getting another swiftech then it's ok to wait. That H320x should be enough for the 980. I added a 120 rad to my 980 add on with a h220x.. I


----------



## d1One

Anyone knows a website that sells the new prestige series in e Europe?
Switch's website is so outdated, omg, half of the international resellers websites don't even exist no more or barely have anything...


----------



## Velathawen

An alternative is to use a forwarding service of some sort - but you'll be in a pretty tough spot when it comes to shipping for warranty and what not if something happens.


----------



## InsideJob

Yay it's done!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Yay it's done!


Nice. Did you have to get that G1/4 Adapter from Swiftech for one of the port from the Pump? Cause I know one of the port is not G1/4


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice. Did you have to get that G1/4 Adapter from Swiftech for one of the port from the Pump? Cause I know one of the port is not G1/4


I just stuck with the same size tubing so I didn't have to get the adapter.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Sorry, that does suck. Node 804 mounting is offset so you will have clearance.
> Can look at the Phantekx Evolv mATX


I built the rig in the Node 804 and the clearance was 1mm between the rad and G.SKILL Trident Z ram. You have to make sure when mounting the rad to push it slightly towards the window for it to not touch the memory heatsinks. In the end, my pump was doa right out of the box and made a loud ticking noise regardless of pwm setting. Had to unmount and return the H220x. I'm not using a NH-D15S for the time being


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I just stuck with the same size tubing so I didn't have to get the adapter.


Nice man. So I'm looking at the D5 pump and I dont know which one to get, between the D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control knob) or the D5 PUmp PWM? Which one is better? and what is the difference? thx.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice man. So I'm looking at the D5 pump and I dont know which one to get, between the D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control knob) or the D5 PUmp PWM? Which one is better? and what is the difference? thx.


I'd personally get the Vario version , in the end it'll be easier to bleed. To be honest I hate not being able to control pump speeds don't get me wrong, pwm is a good thing, but it's better to control speed through a dial or a controller.

Still have a question about making the stock H220X pump a stand alone pump, is it possible?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does anyone know if the new Prestige units come pre-filled? I was wondering since they come with dyes they might come with needing to be filled.

If I do order one of the new Prestige units I would prefer to have it not filled as I will be adding in my MB to the loop.


----------



## ssgtnubb

They do come pre-filled.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I'd personally get the Vario version , in the end it'll be easier to bleed. To be honest I hate not being able to control pump speeds don't get me wrong, pwm is a good thing, but it's better to control speed through a dial or a controller.
> 
> Still have a question about making the stock H220X pump a stand alone pump, is it possible?


But can't you control the PWM one on your desktop? And you don't have to open up your case to do it?


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But can't you control the PWM one on your desktop? And you don't have to open up your case to do it?


Yes and I'm glad you said something on the subject. My reasoning is do you want your system to be on if you spring a leak?
Cause I believe if you don't have a "trigger" to turn on the pump, pwn cable, your pump would not turn on.. Perhaps with the proper jumper set up, but it's always best to have your system NOT powered up.

Again this is my opinion and I am not certain how precautious people are with setting up loops.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Yes and I'm glad you said something on the subject. My reasoning is do you want your system to be on if you spring a leak?
> Cause I believe if you don't have a "trigger" to turn on the pump, pwn cable, your pump would not turn on.. Perhaps with the proper jumper set up, but it's always best to have your system NOT powered up.
> 
> Again this is my opinion and I am not certain how precautious people are with setting up loops.


Well can't you turn on the D5 Pump PWM without turning on the system? Like just use a paper clip or something and turn on the PSU without hooking up the motherboard power cable?

Then after the loop runs for couple hours to check leak. Then if everything is fine, turn on the rest of your system and with the PWM D5 Pump, now you can control how fast it runs on your desktop? Rather than open up your PC case. And plus with PWM you can make a Speed Curve (graph) .

So in the end, isn't PWM pump is better than Vario pump ? Unless I'm missing something here?


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well can't you turn on the D5 Pump PWM without turning on the system? Like just use a paper clip or something and turn on the PSU without hooking up the motherboard power cable?
> 
> Then after the loop runs for couple hours to check leak. Then if everything is fine, turn on the rest of your system and with the PWM D5 Pump, now you can control how fast it runs on your desktop? Rather than open up your PC case. And plus with PWM you can make a Speed Curve (graph) .
> 
> So in the end, isn't PWM pump is better than Vario pump ? Unless I'm missing something here?


It all depends on how you look at it.

For me it'll be easier to precisely bleed my loop with a Vario type pump.

Doesn't the Vario just have one plug that needs to be connected?...


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well can't you turn on the D5 Pump PWM without turning on the system? Like just use a paper clip or something and turn on the PSU without hooking up the motherboard power cable?
> 
> Then after the loop runs for couple hours to check leak. Then if everything is fine, turn on the rest of your system and with the PWM D5 Pump, now you can control how fast it runs on your desktop? Rather than open up your PC case. And plus with PWM you can make a Speed Curve (graph) .
> 
> So in the end, isn't PWM pump is better than Vario pump ? Unless I'm missing something here?


Most people never touch the pump speed again once it's been set anyways. The loop is far more affected by fan speed over the radiator than it is by pump speed, assuming you already have a decent flow rate.

It would drive me nuts if I hear my pump or fans speed up whenever the CPU temps spike. If everything is set up to change speeds only through a change in the water temp, then that's fine.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Most people never touch the pump speed again once it's been set anyways. The loop is far more affected by fan speed over the radiator than it is by pump speed, assuming you already have a decent flow rate.
> 
> It would drive me nuts if I hear my pump or fans speed up whenever the CPU temps spike. If everything is set up to change speeds only through a change in the water temp, then that's fine.


Well can't you set the PWM Pump to stay constant at Max? or constant at a certain speed? PWM doesnt mean it goes up and down depend on the cpu temps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> It all depends on how you look at it.
> 
> For me it'll be easier to precisely bleed my loop with a Vario type pump.
> 
> Doesn't the Vario just have one plug that needs to be connected?...


So, your argument is that having one less wire to connect outweighs having easy and convenient control of pump speed? I can't say I agree with that or see even the remotest amount of logic to it.

BTW - PWM D5s run at 60% when powered with no PWM signal. - so right around 3000 rpm. This is fine for leak testing and bleeding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Most people never touch the pump speed again once it's been set anyways. The loop is far more affected by fan speed over the radiator than it is by pump speed, assuming you already have a decent flow rate.
> 
> It would drive me nuts if I hear my pump or fans speed up whenever the CPU temps spike. If everything is set up to change speeds only through a change in the water temp, then that's fine.


The pump speed can absolutely be set to react to water temp changes only, and tailored to your exact liking. That is why PWM pumps came out in the first place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well can't you set the PWM Pump to stay constant at Max? or constant at a certain speed? PWM doesnt mean it goes up and down depend on the cpu temps.


You could do that as well, if it is what you desire. That is the beauty of the PWM control, you can do pretty much whatever you want with it.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, your argument is that having one less wire to connect outweighs having easy and convenient control of pump speed? I can't say I agree with that or see even the remotest amount of logic to it.
> 
> BTW - PWM D5s run at 60% when powered with no PWM signal. - so right around 3000 rpm. This is fine for leak testing and bleeding.
> The pump speed can absolutely be set to react to water temp changes only, and tailored to your exact liking. That is why PWM pumps came out in the first place.
> You could do that as well, if it is what you desire. That is the beauty of the PWM control, you can do pretty much whatever you want with it.


It's all opinion, 60% speed might be too noisy for some people or what ever. The closest thing to pwm pump I have is my H220x , and as it stands I'd rather have a vario.

At this time I don't care about pwm or a dial controlling, I just want to be able to control noise, both do the same thing to an extent.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> It's all opinion, 60% speed might be too noisy for some people or what ever. The closest thing to pwm pump I have is my H220x , and as it stands I'd rather have a vario.
> 
> At this time I don't care about pwm or a dial controlling, I just want to be able to control noise, both do the same thing to an extent.


Your talking in circles and making absolutely no sense. First it is that the pump doesn't run fast enough during the leak test.....now it is that it runs too fast and makes too much noise during the leak test.

You can keep your vario and it's incredibly limited (by comparison) capabilities for noise and speed control, the rest of us will enjoy the silence at low liquid temps and speed up only when required. This whole conversation is off topic, regardless.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your talking in circles and making absolutely no sense. First it is that the pump doesn't run fast enough during the leak test.....now it is that it runs too fast and makes too much noise during the leak test.
> 
> You can keep your vario and it's incredibly limited (by comparison) capabilities for noise and speed control, the rest of us will enjoy the silence at low liquid temps and speed up only when required. This whole conversation is off topic, regardless.


lol..
Circles.. hmm...
I'll keep my Vario*which I don't have anymore*..
Also I am stating that people.. "People" have different thresholds of noise, and to some the lowest pwm speed poses some noise, when I had my Vario it was VERY quiet, even on setting 4 it was very quiet.

Heck before PWM was a thing, I didn't mind the noise of my high speed Yate Loons running at 12 volts FULL blast, but NOW in these new times, I don't regret those fans or pump choice the time,

It's your opinion which I am not saying that is bad at all, I am glad we have options on what direction to take pump wise.

So which ever the person who asked the question chooses, he/she won't have any issues with either option, heck he can choose the non-speed controlled pump, BUT I'd rather have a Vario. Like you would rather have the PWM version.

Talking about cirlces?.. Going water cooling is going in circles I don't want to get into a debate on which is better Air vs Water, trying to choose the best median is like going in circles, but everyone has their opinion.

All my opinion...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its actually quite a popular topic at the moment. There are several threads where people have PWM D5's and trying to bleed their loops. The D5 runs at 60% PWM but that translates to about 40% of max pressure and many find that inadequate to bleed air from a decent size loop. Also it can be effective to change pump speed while bleeding rather than just running at a fixed speed as it seems to move air pockets better.

With any PWM pump you are at the mercy of the quality of the PWM control implementation / software on the board. They can leave much to be desired with random PWM changes even though set not to. New gen enthusiast boards do at least finally have better systems and even some temp sensor inputs for water temps but you still have the typical pump stops, pump runs full speed, pump settles down to desired setting every time the system restarts or wakes from sleep.

A PWM D5 pump can be hotwired while the system is shutdown for filling etc by using a wire to connect the PWM line to 5V for full speed, ground for min speed or stop and no connection for mid speed. The Vario just offers tried and true never fail simplicity while giving away nothing in performance. The PWM in the D5 is something of a hack or afterthought as implemented by Laing so has compatibility issues with some devices and even some motherboards reportedly.

It is purely a preference choice unless you want to mount the pump in a hard to reach or inaccessible place like vertical pump/res units, in which case the PWM makes great sense. The best D5 is the USB version of the Vario where the speed dial is replaced with an electronic control.


----------



## Mega Man

Slight correction

Lang made the D5 NOT to Intel pwm spec. Acs D5 is currently the ONLY D5 to incorporate the "diva mod" internally although it isn't hard to do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I just stuck with the same size tubing so I didn't have to get the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice man. So I'm looking at the D5 pump and I dont know which one to get, between the D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control knob) or the D5 PUmp PWM? Which one is better? and what is the difference? thx.
Click to expand...

This is personal pref, and no one will be able to tell you which will work better for you, some like to change speeds others to leave then static
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice man. So I'm looking at the D5 pump and I dont know which one to get, between the D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control knob) or the D5 PUmp PWM? Which one is better? and what is the difference? thx.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd personally get the Vario version , in the end it'll be easier to bleed. To be honest I hate not being able to control pump speeds don't get me wrong, pwm is a good thing, but it's better to control speed through a dial or a controller.
> 
> Still have a question about making the stock H220X pump a stand alone pump, is it possible?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it depends on how much diy you want to do. As they don't sell pump tops separately
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But can't you control the PWM one on your desktop? And you don't have to open up your case to do it?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes and I'm glad you said something on the subject. My reasoning is do you want your system to be on if you spring a leak?
> Cause I believe if you don't have a "trigger" to turn on the pump, pwn cable, your pump would not turn on.. Perhaps with the proper jumper set up, but it's always best to have your system NOT powered up.
> 
> Again this is my opinion and I am not certain how precautious people are with setting up loops.
Click to expand...

No pwm only needs power, most run at 100%by default, the only exceptions I know of are the Lang stock d5s, you can diva mod then or temp run 5v to the pull up circuit if you want then to run at 100%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well can't you turn on the D5 Pump PWM without turning on the system? Like just use a paper clip or something and turn on the PSU without hooking up the motherboard power cable?
> 
> Then after the loop runs for couple hours to check leak. Then if everything is fine, turn on the rest of your system and with the PWM D5 Pump, now you can control how fast it runs on your desktop? Rather than open up your PC case. And plus with PWM you can make a Speed Curve (graph) .
> 
> So in the end, isn't PWM pump is better than Vario pump ? Unless I'm missing something here?
> 
> 
> 
> It all depends on how you look at it.
> 
> For me it'll be easier to precisely bleed my loop with a Vario type pump.
> 
> Doesn't the Vario just have one plug that needs to be connected?...
Click to expand...

Neither pump needs any connector besides the power ( fat 4 pin ) connected to run
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well can't you turn on the D5 Pump PWM without turning on the system? Like just use a paper clip or something and turn on the PSU without hooking up the motherboard power cable?
> 
> Then after the loop runs for couple hours to check leak. Then if everything is fine, turn on the rest of your system and with the PWM D5 Pump, now you can control how fast it runs on your desktop? Rather than open up your PC case. And plus with PWM you can make a Speed Curve (graph) .
> 
> So in the end, isn't PWM pump is better than Vario pump ? Unless I'm missing something here?
> 
> 
> 
> Most people never touch the pump speed again once it's been set anyways. The loop is far more affected by fan speed over the radiator than it is by pump speed, assuming you already have a decent flow rate.
> 
> It would drive me nuts if I hear my pump or fans speed up whenever the CPU temps spike. If everything is set up to change speeds only through a change in the water temp, then that's fine.
Click to expand...

First the pump just needs the psu turned on, as to your comment one word,

Aquaero

Expensive? Yes, worth every penny? Yes I won't build a pc without them


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its actually quite a popular topic at the moment. There are several threads where people have PWM D5's and trying to bleed their loops. The D5 runs at 60% PWM but that translates to about 40% of max pressure and many find that inadequate to bleed air from a decent size loop. Also it can be effective to change pump speed while bleeding rather than just running at a fixed speed as it seems to move air pockets better.
> 
> With any PWM pump you are at the mercy of the quality of the PWM control implementation / software on the board. They can leave much to be desired with random PWM changes even though set not to. New gen enthusiast boards do at least finally have better systems and even some temp sensor inputs for water temps but you still have the typical pump stops, pump runs full speed, pump settles down to desired setting every time the system restarts or wakes from sleep.
> 
> A PWM D5 pump can be hotwired while the system is shutdown for filling etc by using a wire to connect the PWM line to 5V for full speed, ground for min speed or stop and no connection for mid speed. The Vario just offers tried and true never fail simplicity while giving away nothing in performance. The PWM in the D5 is something of a hack or afterthought as implemented by Laing so has compatibility issues with some devices and even some motherboards reportedly.
> 
> It is purely a preference choice unless you want to mount the pump in a hard to reach or inaccessible place like vertical pump/res units, in which case the PWM makes great sense. The best D5 is the USB version of the Vario where the speed dial is replaced with an electronic control.


What do you mean D5 pump with USB connector and electronic control? And is it only from AquaComputer that selling them? thx.


----------



## Mega Man

he means this

but he is incorrect about "best, all the major pumps are good, but perfect/best? nope - it is personal pref.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he means this
> 
> but he is incorrect about "best, all the major pumps are good, but perfect/best? nope - it is personal pref.


the best pump is the one that never ceases to pump...


----------



## Scout255

I just recieved a h320 x2 prestige (returned the 320mm predator due to the recall), and no matter what I do the pump will not turn. I have changed power leads to the pump, run the pwm feed directly to my motherboard to bypass the splitter board, and reseated and reinstalled everything on the pwm splitter. All other functions (LEDs, radiator Fan speed control, etc.) Work fine but I can't get the pump to work and unfortunately there isn't a troubleshooting guide on swiftechs website.

I can see through the pump casing that the impellor isn't turning, my motherboard reports 0 rpm, and the bubbles in the liquid are not moving.

Is the pump just DOA? Or is there a switch or something simple somewhere I'm missing? Somewhat frustrating that a brand new unit that replaced a competing unit isn't working.... Ugh....


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scout255*
> 
> I just recieved a h320 x2 prestige (returned the 320mm predator due to the recall), and no matter what I do the pump will not turn. I have changed power leads to the pump, run the pwm feed directly to my motherboard to bypass the splitter board, and reseated and reinstalled everything on the pwm splitter. All other functions (LEDs, radiator Fan speed control, etc.) Work fine but I can't get the pump to work and unfortunately there isn't a troubleshooting guide on swiftechs website.
> 
> I can see through the pump casing that the impellor isn't turning, my motherboard reports 0 rpm, and the bubbles in the liquid are not moving.
> 
> Is the pump just DOA? Or is there a switch or something simple somewhere I'm missing? Somewhat frustrating that a brand new unit that replaced a competing unit isn't working.... Ugh....


No the pump should just come on, you have the sata connector to the pump connected?


----------



## Scout255

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> No the pump should just come on, you have the sata connector to the pump connected?


Yes, both sata leads are connected (splitter and the pump) and I've switched them to other known working leads with no dice unfortunately.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scout255*
> 
> Yes, both sata leads are connected (splitter and the pump) and I've switched them to other known working leads with no dice unfortunately.


Yeah that isn't sounding good, the pump should come on with just the sata power connected. Might have to rma.


----------



## Scout255

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah that isn't sounding good, the pump should come on with just the sata power connected. Might have to rma.


'Doh. Just my luck, so much for Swiftech to the rescue from the predator recall. Oy!

Thanks for your help though.


----------



## Velathawen

Had my first H240x pump die within 3 days as well, wish we could have this type of luck with the lottery right?


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering the H240x prestige NB-eLoop Fans are 500 to 1800 rpm.At the noiseblocker site it shows their 140mm B14-3 fan as 1400 rpm.Are the fans made for the H240x prestige special just for that unit since the swiftech specifications show pwm adjustable 500 ~ 1800 rpm.Just curious, I will get a 240x prestige when there out in feb for a new system I am building but those 1800 rpm noiseblocker fans I want to put on my old H240x.Where can I get a couple of these bad boys. Anyone know...


----------



## Scout255

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Had my first H240x pump die within 3 days as well, wish we could have this type of luck with the lottery right?


Indeed. I got ahold of Swiftech and it looks like the pump is likely dead (Doh!), but it looks like the RMA process should be smooth, fingers crossed.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scout255*
> 
> Indeed. I got ahold of Swiftech and it looks like the pump is likely dead (Doh!), but it looks like the RMA process should be smooth, fingers crossed.


Sorry to hear that, your luck has not been good. Hope the rma process is smooth.


----------



## LezOU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Hey guys, bad news here : my H220-X started to leak yesterday after 2 months of use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got back home yesterday night, and found a little puddle of coolant in the bottom of my case.
> I immediately turned off my rig (which was folding), fortunately it didn't leaked on any component, the coolant dripped right before my GPU.
> 
> The H220-X is out of my case now, I switched back from 4.5GHz OC to stock CPU settings with the stock cooler.
> 
> I didn't and I won't have much time next week to investigate, but at first glance the leak came from the res, on the left edge of the acryclic window.
> My window doesn't look cracked, the coolant seems to be leaking between the res body and the acrylic window.


hum, I may have to dismantle my setup to check then...

I have another res on my case and I have to top up fluid every couple of weeks, I've not been able to identify the source of the loss until now, but you give me an idea...


----------



## reptileexperts

Signing in. My Prestige 220 x2 just arrived at home. Starting a new water cooling loop from it once I change my case (Currently phantom NZXT Original w/ Window). Current chip is cooled with a h60 120mm corsair AIO. Works well, OC'd at 4.8ghz at the moment with 1.29v and temps stay around 70 C gaming, encoding things get too hot for comfort and I have to back off (pings the 100 mark). This should provide me with enough thermal headspace to find my voltage wall to break 5.0ghz. . . So here's to the new H220x 2 and breaking 5.0 on my devil's canyon stable.


----------



## rfarmer

For anyone in the US Newegg is carrying the new Swiftech AIOs. All I got to say is about time.


----------



## jincuteguy

So I heard a lot of ppl bought the new Swiftech X2 and had a lot of pump DOA (dead on arrival), is this true?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

I have question about the new AIO.. what is the difference between the H320 and H320 Prestige ? the price difference is 50$ ?

also is the Non Prestige enough for 5820k + single 980 Ti ?


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have question about the new AIO.. what is the difference between the H320 and H320 Prestige ? the price difference is 50$ ?
> 
> also is the Non Prestige enough for 5820k + single 980 Ti ?


The difference is the fittings and the fans with the fans being notably the largest upgrade. They replace the helix fans with noiseblocker enloops which give it lower noise at higher RPM. And potentially? better performance.

If you bought the fans alone to upgrade them later, they are about $30 each, so for the triple setup you're looking at $90 worth of fans.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> The difference is the fittings and the fans with the fans being notably the largest upgrade. They replace the helix fans with noiseblocker enloops which give it lower noise at higher RPM. And potentially? better performance.
> 
> If you bought the fans alone to upgrade them later, they are about $30 each, so for the triple setup you're looking at $90 worth of fans.


Are you sure the Noiseblocker fans are $30 each? I only the most expensive one on PerformancePC is $20, the rest are less than that?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So I heard a lot of ppl bought the new Swiftech X2 and had a lot of pump DOA (dead on arrival), is this true?


One would think that there would be people crying and screaming in this thread if that were true....and that hasn't happened. Where are you seeing these reports, in Corsair forums?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> One would think that there would be people crying and screaming in this thread if that were true....and that hasn't happened. Where are you seeing these reports, in Corsair forums?


From Newegg review and ppl on here.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you sure the Noiseblocker fans are $30 each? I only the most expensive one on PerformancePC is $20, the rest are less than that?


http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-B12-PS-120mmx25mm-Silent/dp/B008RO65UU $26.95 on Amazon.


----------



## Kutalion

Those fans are worth every penny. Performance on B14's is insane. I think its by far the best 140mm fan out there atm.
Also i doubt many Swiftech pumps arriving DoA, if anything swiftech pumps are most reliable imo.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> From Newegg review and ppl on here.


Don't see anything on newegg other than 1 person saying their led on the rev and cpu block died and another person said there was pump noise and nobody on here has reported anything so....


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Hello friends. I'm building a new system. I haven't installed an AIO before and the only one I've installed is a Hyper 212 EVO that apparently destroyed my motherboard.

Question is, I can get a 240-X locally for a cheap price. However, I can also get the 320-X Prestige on Amazon but I have to wait for like 2 weeks. Is it worth getting the 320-X Prestige? And is it easy to install?


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you sure the Noiseblocker fans are $30 each? I only the most expensive one on PerformancePC is $20, the rest are less than that?


Sorry, I'm mistaken they run roughly 27 a piece.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556104070.html#__utma=89875097.29964468.1454154152.1454154152.1454154152.1&__utmb=89875097.2.10.1454154152&__utmc=89875097&__utmx=-&__utmz=89875097.1454154152.1.1.utmgclid=CjwKEAiA27G1BRCEopST9M39gykSJADQyqAlxsJQmVuqpB4loVN6B9yVlgehK_4KY8zqfgYI_tP_LRoCSCTw_wcB|utmccn=(not%20set)|utmcmd=(not%20set)|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=47383406


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Hello friends. I'm building a new system. I haven't installed an AIO before and the only one I've installed is a Hyper 212 EVO that apparently destroyed my motherboard.
> 
> Question is, I can get a 240-X locally for a cheap price. However, I can also get the 320-X Prestige on Amazon but I have to wait for like 2 weeks. Is it worth getting the 320-X Prestige? And is it easy to install?


Lot depends on what you are wanting to cool. Cpu only or do you want to add a gpu? The 240-X works very well for cpu only cooling. Also do you have the mounts in your computer for mounting either radiator?

They are quite easy to install, just mount the radiator and the cpu block. Not difficult at all.


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Hello friends. I'm building a new system. I haven't installed an AIO before and the only one I've installed is a Hyper 212 EVO that apparently destroyed my motherboard.
> 
> Question is, I can get a 240-X locally for a cheap price. However, I can also get the 320-X Prestige on Amazon but I have to wait for like 2 weeks. Is it worth getting the 320-X Prestige? And is it easy to install?


320 > 240 if your case can fit it. And the fans on the prestige are worth it IMO.

It's not that bad of an install process as long as your case has the space to work with. My case has plenty of space, but the mounting for the radiator was, awkward. . . (Phantom Original, NZXT). Took me roughly 2 hours but that was because I needed to clean my PC, remove my old AIO cooler, run to the store and grab a new precision screwdriver set since the NB fans had too small of an opening for me to access the screws with my current computer tool kit


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> 320 > 240 if your case can fit it. And the fans on the prestige are worth it IMO.
> 
> It's not that bad of an install process as long as your case has the space to work with. My case has plenty of space, but the mounting for the radiator was, awkward. . . (Phantom Original, NZXT). Took me roughly 2 hours but that was because I needed to clean my PC, remove my old AIO cooler, run to the store and grab a new precision screwdriver set since the NB fans had too small of an opening for me to access the screws with my current computer tool kit


Thanks for the reply.

Actually, I haven't decided about the case yet. Although, I really want to get Phanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition(red). But I'm worried that I might not maximize the use since I'm not going to water cool. And I believe that case is best used for water cooling right?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Actually, I haven't decided about the case yet. Although, I really want to get Phanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition(red). But I'm worried that I might not maximize the use since I'm not going to water cool. And I believe that case is best used for water cooling right?


The Primo is a very large case with extensive watercooling support, unless you need that much room you might want to look into something smaller and cheaper.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Actually, I haven't decided about the case yet. Although, I really want to get Phanteks Enthoo Primo Special Edition(red). But I'm worried that I might not maximize the use since I'm not going to water cool. And I believe that case is best used for water cooling right?


These look pretty lost in the Primo (you would have empty res mounts, rad spaces, etc....it looks like a big empty box), but look right at home in the Luxe. The Primo is designed around using custom loops. The H240-X looks like it was designed to go in the Luxe, and the X2 would be even better looking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Primo is a very large case with extensive watercooling support, unless you need that much room you might want to look into something smaller and cheaper.


You beat me to it.


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Any recommended case? I really want something that can easily manage cables. I've worked with small cases before and they're so hard to manage. I'm a newbie at cables.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Primo is a very large case with extensive watercooling support, unless you need that much room you might want to look into something smaller and cheaper.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Any recommended case? I really want something that can easily manage cables. I've worked with small cases before and they're so hard to manage. I'm a newbie at cables.


The Enthoo Luxe.


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah I agree, the Luxe is a very nice case.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Enthoo Luxe.


the pro is a great option if you don't care about the led strip and don't need the head clearance that the larger top provides


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the pro is a great option if you don't care about the led strip and don't need the head clearance that the larger top provides


The jump from Primo to Pro is pretty severe. The Luxe maintains the Primo look and finish.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: How good is the new X2 series compared to EK Predator? I got my predator replacement today and unit was already leaking right out of the box. This is the second one, I don't trust EK at the moment with their AIO.

With Swiftech H-240X2 would I get similar or better temps compared to Predator 240? Hows the build quality compared to EK?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: How good is the new X2 series compared to EK Predator? I got my predator replacement today and unit was already leaking right out of the box. This is the second one, I don't trust EK at the moment with their AIO.
> 
> With Swiftech H-240X2 would I get similar or better temps compared to Predator 240? Hows the build quality compared to EK?


How many times do you intend on asking this here? And how many times do you intend on arguing with the answer you get? Keep your leaking EK that you insist is higher quality and troll the Corsair club.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: How good is the new X2 series compared to EK Predator? I got my predator replacement today and unit was already leaking right out of the box. This is the second one, I don't trust EK at the moment with their AIO.
> 
> With Swiftech H-240X2 would I get similar or better temps compared to Predator 240? Hows the build quality compared to EK?


The Swiftech H240X2 Prestige is better than the EK Predator 240, because the Swiftech Prestige has better fans (NoiseBlocker).


----------



## Caos

I just saw the version that came H220 x 2 and I am delighted by the design, I want to change my h220x


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: How good is the new X2 series compared to EK Predator? I got my predator replacement today and unit was already leaking right out of the box. This is the second one, I don't trust EK at the moment with their AIO.
> 
> With Swiftech H-240X2 would I get similar or better temps compared to Predator 240? Hows the build quality compared to EK?


not sure about the quality of the predator but tbh I bought a ek radiator recently and I'm not quite sure what all the hype is about...it honestly feels like a child toy compared to the social alphacool,phobya, and swiftech rad I have...the xtc 420 is the one I have even though it's not the newest I was unimpressed to say the least...the swiftech units are good stuff and I'm sure if the ek hasn't leaked twice you might say the same for it...swiftech upped the bar with this one (new block,better bleeding, and customizable colors etc)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> The Swiftech H240X2 Prestige is better than the EK Predator 240, because the Swiftech Prestige has better fans (NoiseBlocker).


I thought Vardar were on par with eloop fans?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I thought Vardar were on par with eloop fans?


Helix fans alone are objectively better than Vardar fans(in terms of relative silence, as Vardar has more characteristics of typical AIO fans where they have a higher Max speed to inflate temperature performance at higher PWM's)

(when I say objectively, It does what it needs to do, the helix' are 12$ and is tuned to fit the pump specification for noise, the vardar fans are tuned at 17 which brings it into the GT price range, which most will probably believe is objectively better.)

To clarify statement a bit more, I do think the Vardar fans are good, its just I personalyl think the ones included with the predator was a mismatch for what its being used for. They should have honestly paired it with a lower RPM varient, though was required because the design of the Predator was in the oppisite direction of Swiftech's design(swiftech's design was low FPI, low RPM design for its unit, whereas EK's approach was high FPI high RPM). Because of this, the EK has a pretty good pressure curve, at the cost that it progressively gets louder at the high RPMs.

on average, the FPI of typical radiators tend to be on the lower half, which puts the Vardar fans in a peculiar spot for high FPI radiators like black ice stealths


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Helix fans alone are objectively better than Vardar fans(in terms of relative silence, as Vardar has more characteristics of typical AIO fans where they have a higher Max speed to inflate temperature performance at higher PWM's)


Yup NoiseBlocker fans are much better than those Vadar fans. The only thing that EK make that is good is their Supremacy EVO cpu block (not their cheap MX version)

The only fans that are better than the NoiseBlocker fans are those Gentle Typhoon fans (now is branded under Darkside). GT fans are the king of 120mm fans for RAdiator, 2nd best are NoiseBlocker Eloop fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yup NoiseBlocker fans are much better than those Vadar fans. The only thing that EK make that is good is their Supremacy EVO cpu block (not their cheap MX version)


That isn't true. EK makes nice GPU blocks and the new Revo series tops and reservoirs are very nice. Their thicker rads are ok (if you don't mind the leak issues they have had with them







), but somehow their slim rad (that is used in the Predator) was actually _*the*_ lowest performing rad of 2015 Extreme Rigs testing and a number of other tests.

But, yes, the EVO is far and away their standout piece. EK is much more geared to the "I water cool for looks" crowd than the performance crowd.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That isn't true. EK makes nice GPU blocks and the new Revo series tops and reservoirs are very nice. Their thicker rads are ok (if you don't mind the leak issues they have had with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but somehow their slim rad (that is used in the Predator) was actually _*the*_ lowest performing rad of 2015 Extreme Rigs testing and a number of other tests.
> 
> But, yes, the EVO is far and away their standout piece. EK is much more geared to the "I water cool for looks" crowd than the performance crowd.


The Predators use the Coolstream PE core, not the SE.


----------



## Revan654

Ok, Just waiting for PPCs to get the H240-x2 Prestige in stock, Then I'll order. Hopefully it will fit in my Case-Labs S8S without any issues.

I can't say I'm a fan of EK rads. Since I had allot of trouble with them over the years.


----------



## reptileexperts

keep in mind, while I'm sure you've looked at the specs, the EK Predator 240 is 2 120mm fans, the H240 x2 Prestige will be 2 140mm.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> keep in mind, while I'm sure you've looked at the specs, the EK Predator 240 is 2 120mm fans, the H240 x2 Prestige will be 2 140mm.


I know, 140mm fans should be quieter, Since it doesn't need to run at higher RPM compared to 120mm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The Predators use the Coolstream PE core, not the SE.


Ok....so on par with an XSPC EX. Average at best.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok....so on par with an XSPC EX. Average at best.


More like the XSPC AX, seeing as how both share the same core.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> More like the XSPC AX, seeing as how both share the same core.


Get us a 140mm eloop test sir!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Get us a 140mm eloop test sir!


Happening as we speak. I have the B14-3 and B14-PS here, and they are really good. Unless you have high airflow restriction, and the Swiftech MCRQP rads aren't, they are one of the best retail options for 140mm fans. I am going to send them for further testing on a Longwin to get relative P-Q curves but I am very excited for the H240-X Prestige.


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Just purchased Swiftech 320 X2 Prestige from Amazon.

It will be used with the following:
i7-6700k
Maximus 8 Extreme
Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 3000
EVGA 980TI SC2
Enthoo Luxe
Samsung 950 PRO M.2 NVMe 512GB

Very excited. The last cooler I used was Intel's Stock Cooler on my last build(4790k). I'm also going to buy NZXT Hue+ for some lighting aesthetics.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Any recommended case? I really want something that can easily manage cables. I've worked with small cases before and they're so hard to manage. I'm a newbie at cables.


There is only one choice, caselabs, and before someone whines too expensive someone just bought a used one for 100


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Just purchased Swiftech 320 X2 Prestige from Amazon.
> 
> It will be used with the following:
> i7-6700k
> Maximus 8 Extreme
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 3000
> EVGA 980TI SC2
> Enthoo Luxe
> Samsung 950 PRO M.2 NVMe 512GB
> 
> Very excited. The last cooler I used was Intel's Stock Cooler on my last build(4790k). I'm also going to buy NZXT Hue+ for some lighting aesthetics.


Why did you buy from Amazon? Omg, the guy selling on Amazon is ripping you off dude. It's only $214 on Swiftech and Newegg website.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is only one choice, caselabs, and before someone whines too expensive someone just bought a used one for 100


A used one? Where? Ebay or Craiglist?


----------



## jasongenovaxx

I have $292 in giftcard left in Amazon. I figured that I might use that one instead.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why did you buy from Amazon? Omg, the guy selling on Amazon is ripping you off dude. It's only $214 on Swiftech and Newegg website.


No kidding, There is a H220X2 prestige on Amazon selling for $216 (that's $2 more than the H320X2 prestige on the Swifttech site! Even with prime shipping (which is usually the thing that hooks me) it is not worth it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is only one choice, caselabs, and before someone whines too expensive someone just bought a used one for 100
> 
> 
> 
> A used one? Where? Ebay or Craiglist?
Click to expand...

he found it local, but check cl ebay and ocn


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> More like the XSPC AX, seeing as how both share the same core.


Hate roving off topic again, but I was speaking strictly from a performance standpoint. They are essentially identical:


----------



## reptileexperts

amazon = tax for texas, and they are definitely price gouging on the h220x prestige / H320 x2 Prestige setups.

Performance-pcs has them for retail pricing from swiftech, no tax outside of Florida, and shipping is pretty much covered when you use the OCN code OCN55 for 5.5% off.

Shipping took 3 days to get it to me. I'd recommend ordering from them. My total was just north of 192 for the H220 x2 prestige shipped.

Side bar: I changed my profiles up a bit on it, since my silent profile was causing issues with temperature spikes and just seemed ridiculous (20% until 80 degrees, then jumps to 60% power). Now I have it at 20% till 50C then it jumps to 50% till 65C then 60% till 80C. This seems to provide me with the best results.

With my 120mm Radiator and Corsair AIO @ 1.225V 4.7ghz on my i7 4790k under a stress test in real bench max temperatures fell around 95 at its peak.

With the 240mm Radiator on my H220x2 Prestige, on the fan profile described above, with the same CPU settings, after running the same test max temperatures fall around 70C with the house being around 26C in both tests. When I push things to 4.9ghz @ 1.299V things max around 81 under encoding stress tests in handbrake. The corsair would tip at 100C and I'd have to back off at this point.

I am also running 2 less case fans (200mm x2 top exhaust replaced with the new radiator - and haven't replaced my back exhaust fan quite yet since I've ordered an eLoop to go there after using the ones on the new AIO).

Just my observations thus far.


----------



## Velathawen

Is the OCN code one time use or any order? It's going to be my first time ordering from them when I put my 980Ti under water as well, would be handy since shipping to HK is ~$70 for tubing, barbs, coolant. If it's one time just going to pull the trigger on everything at once. THanks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he found it local, but check cl ebay and ocn


problem with that is that areas like mine people only sell garbage pcs and parts...I think I might have found one or two decent deals...I bought a g5 mouse and that's sit ask I've found...a lot of low life's selling "gaming" and "top of the line" computers from 2005 as current


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> problem with that is that areas like mine people only sell garbage pcs and parts...I think I might have found one or two decent deals...I bought a g5 mouse and that's sit ask I've found...a lot of low life's selling "gaming" and "top of the line" computers from 2005 as current


My area is the same way, it amazes me what people think their old computer parts are worth. The guys with the old video cards seems to be the worst, I have seen nVidia GT 8800 for $100. I just laugh and shake my head.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Hate roving off topic again, but I was speaking strictly from a performance standpoint. They are essentially identical:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not in my tests. The AX and EK PE shared development as a result of collaboration and perform near identically, and tangibly better than the older, budget model XSPC EX. But yeah it's off topic like you said









Back to Swiftech now. I am curious to see if any owners of the new models have disassembled the CPU block for whatever reason. The original Apogee XL was pretty restrictive to liquid flow and didn't scale great with flow past 0.7-0.8 GPM (which kinda made the restriction a moot point if not expanded). They had been working on a higher flow baseplate for close to an year now with implementation planned in both the coolers and the standalone CPU block. I am curious about the improvements from a design standpoint, since the new coolers are supposed to have them already.


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Is the OCN code one time use or any order? It's going to be my first time ordering from them when I put my 980Ti under water as well, would be handy since shipping to HK is ~$70 for tubing, barbs, coolant. If it's one time just going to pull the trigger on everything at once. THanks!


It's not one time use as far as I can tell. You can use it with an official or guest account.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> amazon = tax for texas, and they are definitely price gouging on the h220x prestige / H320 x2 Prestige setups.
> 
> Performance-pcs has them for retail pricing from swiftech, no tax outside of Florida, and shipping is pretty much covered when you use the OCN code OCN55 for 5.5% off.
> 
> Shipping took 3 days to get it to me. I'd recommend ordering from them. My total was just north of 192 for the H220 x2 prestige shipped.
> 
> Side bar: I changed my profiles up a bit on it, since my silent profile was causing issues with temperature spikes and just seemed ridiculous (20% until 80 degrees, then jumps to 60% power). Now I have it at 20% till 50C then it jumps to 50% till 65C then 60% till 80C. This seems to provide me with the best results.
> 
> With my 120mm Radiator and Corsair AIO @ 1.225V 4.7ghz on my i7 4790k under a stress test in real bench max temperatures fell around 95 at its peak.
> 
> With the 240mm Radiator on my H220x2 Prestige, on the fan profile described above, with the same CPU settings, after running the same test max temperatures fall around 70C with the house being around 26C in both tests. When I push things to 4.9ghz @ 1.299V things max around 81 under encoding stress tests in handbrake. The corsair would tip at 100C and I'd have to back off at this point.
> 
> I am also running 2 less case fans (200mm x2 top exhaust replaced with the new radiator - and haven't replaced my back exhaust fan quite yet since I've ordered an eLoop to go there after using the ones on the new AIO).
> 
> Just my observations thus far.


What state are you in that it took 3days to ship from PerformancePCs?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not in my tests. The AX and EK PE shared development as a result of collaboration and perform near identically, and tangibly better than the older, budget model XSPC EX. But yeah it's off topic like you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to Swiftech now. I am curious to see if any owners of the new models have disassembled the CPU block for whatever reason. The original Apogee XL was pretty restrictive to liquid flow and didn't scale great with flow past 0.7-0.8 GPM (which kinda made the restriction a moot point if not expanded). They had been working on a higher flow baseplate for close to an year now with implementation planned in both the coolers and the standalone CPU block. I am curious about the improvements from a design standpoint, since the new coolers are supposed to have them already.


Well someone has to do a more detailed review other than just temperature


----------



## reptileexperts

TX. FedEx ground is pretty good about 2-3 day delivery times for me.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> TX. FedEx ground is pretty good about 2-3 day delivery times for me.


Damn really? Im in Cali here and I thought it would take 3 days to get to me from Florida.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Damn really? Im in Cali here and I thought it would take 3 days to get to me from Florida.


Took 5 days to Washington state.


----------



## NIK1

NCIX Canada has limited quantity of Swiftech H220 X2 Prestige for $279.98 CAD.10 dollars more than the exchange rate..


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone know where or when can we find the H320 X2 Prestige or H240 X2 Prestige in europe ? Cant wait to press that "buy" button








Last time I dealt with swiftech and H220 I got a bad pump, but it happens i understand, customer service was awesome, so I`m lookin to give them another shot.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Does anyone know where or when can we find the H320 X2 Prestige or H240 X2 Prestige in europe ? Cant wait to press that "buy" button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last time I dealt with swiftech and H220 I got a bad pump, but it happens i understand, customer service was awesome, so I`m lookin to give them another shot.


Good news! 240's are OTW to Europe now..


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Good news! 240's are OTW to Europe now..


And where are the 240's for US? still haven't seen them in stock and you guys are shipping them to Europe?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Happening as we speak. I have the B14-3 and B14-PS here, and they are really good. Unless you have high airflow restriction, and the Swiftech MCRQP rads aren't, they are one of the best retail options for 140mm fans. I am going to send them for further testing on a Longwin to get relative P-Q curves but I am very excited for the H240-X Prestige.


Guys, we published test reports on this..check the Prestige product page. these eloop are phenomenal at at low rpms. that's why I greenlighted them despite their price.. Honestly, I was in shock when Stephen presented me with the test results.

Now, for a guy who is not too picky about "a few degrees" here and there.. then the Helix do the job with superb value.. but if you want best thermal performance at low noise, and if money is no object, then these things are the way to go IMHO.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys, we published test reports on this..check the Prestige product page. these eloop are phenomenal at at low rpms. that's why I greenlighted them despite their price.. Honestly, I was in shock when Stephen presented me with the test results.
> 
> Now, for a guy who is not too picky about "a few degrees" here and there.. then the Helix do the job with superb value.. but if you want best thermal performance at low noise, and if money is no object, then these things are the way to go IMHO.


Just saw it, good stuff Gabe


----------



## Scout255

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scout255*
> 
> Indeed. I got ahold of Swiftech and it looks like the pump is likely dead (Doh!), but it looks like the RMA process should be smooth, fingers crossed.


Just wanted to give an update for anyone interested, Swiftech has done a great job handling the RMA and they shipped me a brand new H320 X2 Prestige with a return label to send the DOA one back to them. If I went through the vendor I bought it from I would've been out shipping money to send it back to them and probably about 2 weeks of computer usage for them to inspect the old unit and send out a new one, so i'm really glad they went this route. Unfortunately I don't have time to install it today, but I did plug it in and the pump spins just fine. Looks like I just got unlucky with my first one.

Hats off to Swiftech for the excellent customer service and response, it really turned a negative first experience into a positive one.

Can't wait to install it and give 'er a whirl!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scout255*
> 
> Just wanted to give an update for anyone interested, Swiftech has done a great job handling the RMA and they shipped me a brand new H320 X2 Prestige with a return label to send the DOA one back to them. If I went through the vendor I bought it from I would've been out shipping money to send it back to them and probably about 2 weeks of computer usage for them to inspect the old unit and send out a new one, so i'm really glad they went this route. Unfortunately I don't have time to install it today, but I did plug it in and the pump spins just fine. Looks like I just got unlucky with my first one.
> 
> Hats off to Swiftech for the excellent customer service and response, it really turned a negative first experience into a positive one.
> 
> Can't wait to install it and give 'er a whirl!


Good to hear, glad your luck has improved.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Happening as we speak. I have the B14-3 and B14-PS here, and they are really good. Unless you have high airflow restriction, and the Swiftech MCRQP rads aren't, they are one of the best retail options for 140mm fans. I am going to send them for further testing on a Longwin to get relative P-Q curves but I am very excited for the H240-X Prestige.
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, we published test reports on this..check the Prestige product page. these eloop are phenomenal at at low rpms. that's why I greenlighted them despite their price.. Honestly, I was in shock when Stephen presented me with the test results.
> 
> Now, for a guy who is not too picky about "a few degrees" here and there.. then the Helix do the job with superb value.. but if you want best thermal performance at low noise, and if money is no object, then these things are the way to go IMHO.
Click to expand...

please promise to sue the pants off of ace crap if they infringe on your patent ( saw the product page )


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please promise to sue the pants off of ace crap if they infringe on your patent ( saw the product page )


I second this...what's good for the goose is good for the gander...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I second this...what's good for the goose is good for the gander...


I would be all for a "Frankenstein" style mob with torches and pitchforks outside the Asetek headquarters to cheer on the attorneys. They deserve far worse than a simple law suit for the damage they have done to the cooling landscape and money they have bilked consumers out of.


----------



## Kutalion

+1 pitchfork here.


----------



## Wam7

Is this standard for the H220-X after 4 months?

Do I need to just top it up or flush and refill the whole system?

Can I only use distilled water and is deionised water a no-no?

PS. Anybody know a good source for distilled water in the UK? It used to be much easier to obtain (mum used to use it in her iron) but now it's like hens teeth.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Is this standard for the H220-X after 4 months?
> 
> Do I need to just top it up or flush and refill the whole system?
> 
> Can I only use distilled water and is deionised water a no-no?
> 
> PS. Anybody know a good source for distilled water in the UK? It used to be much easier to obtain (mum used to use it in her iron) but now it's like hens teeth.


That is anything but standard. You have an issue somewhere - either a very small leak, or an opening in the loop that is allowing evaporation.


----------



## evilgrin

i created a list at the swiftech website for the 240 x2, does it notify when product comes in?


----------



## Velathawen

If you are really desperate other sites like PCS already have it in stock.


----------



## d1One

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Good news! 240's are OTW to Europe now..


Any tips on what reseller websites will have units for sale in Europe?


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is anything but standard. You have an issue somewhere - either a very small leak, or an opening in the loop that is allowing evaporation.


It looks like you were right as the rust here looks anything but standard. Had to get my girlfriend with her better eyesight to give it a look over as I didn't notice it due to the tube being right up against it.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Welp, fans no longer spin, pump died too... when i hook up the fans individually, they work fine.

18 months.... if that counts for quality, I'm going back to a good air-cooler... there's a reason why VW Bugs are so damned reliable.

and if Swiftech's CS is on here, I want nothing from you. Keep building rubbish... which seems to be about all the company's good for with the failure rates seeming as they are.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Welp, fans no longer spin, pump died too... when i hook up the fans individually, they work fine.
> 
> 18 months.... if that counts for quality, I'm going back to a good air-cooler... there's a reason why VW Bugs are so damned reliable.
> 
> and if Swiftech's CS is on here, I want nothing from you. Keep building rubbish... which seems to be about all the company's good for with the failure rates seeming as they are.


did you hook the pump up individually to see if it runs by itself your splitter may have crapped out...as for failure rates all manufacturers have them and of the ones I've seen swiftechs is pretty low comparatively to say corsair...that said if failure was your largest concern you should have went big air from the start as failure can happen with any pump at any time...I bought an mcp50x to add to my loop and the first one I received had a bad connection on the pwm in line board...swiftech let me try to repair it before rma which was unsuccessful but try and find a company with as good of support after the purchase...I've gotten an o ring (my own stupidity for not removing it before rinsing the block) and a replacement window free of charge...I also did not have to pay to ship back the pump...but I understand your frustration...I too simply want things to work but imo the customer service is what made me not hesitate to buy two gpu blocks as well...all working well nearly two years later


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> did you hook the pump up individually to see if it runs by itself your splitter may have crapped out...as for failure rates all manufacturers have them and of the ones I've seen swiftechs is pretty low comparatively to say corsair...that said if failure was your largest concern you should have went big air from the start as failure can happen with any pump at any time...I bought an mcp50x to add to my loop and the first one I received had a bad connection on the pwm in line board...swiftech let me try to repair it before rma which was unsuccessful but try and find a company with as good of support after the purchase...I've gotten an o ring (my own stupidity for not removing it before rinsing the block) and a replacement window free of charge...I also did not have to pay to ship back the pump...but I understand your frustration...I too simply want things to work but imo the customer service is what made me not hesitate to buy two gpu blocks as well...all working well nearly two years later


Failure wasn't my largest concern, but now it is, and I'm going with a Noctua NH-U12S, with the 2 2000rpm IPPC fans I used on the H220x being rehomed.


----------



## Mega Man

i cant help but laugh. that is pretty funny, tbh though it sounds like ebkac, pumps and fans have NOTHING in common, and i HIGHLY doubt we are getting the full story,

for the fans * multiple * AND pump to die at the same time, the odds are extremely high

** please note the 2 "dead" fans that were "dead" on the h220/h220x w.e. are still functional !
* meanwhile in an unrelated RMA back at swiftech, the engineer finds what looks to be coke ( the drink ) in the blades of the fans and PCB of the pump *


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant help but laugh. that is pretty funny, tbh though it sounds like ebkac, pumps and fans have NOTHING in common, and i HIGHLY doubt we are getting the full story,
> 
> for the fans * multiple * AND pump to die at the same time, the odds are extremely high
> 
> ** please note the 2 "dead" fans that were "dead" on the h220/h220x w.e. are still functional !
> * meanwhile in an unrelated RMA back at swiftech, the engineer finds what looks to be coke ( the drink ) in the blades of the fans and PCB of the pump *


Yes, the chances of that happening border on zero. There obviously was something else that caused this, or is happening here.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

when i hook the fans up individually to the fan ports on the mobo, they work... when they are hooked to the splitter, don't work.

the amount of yellow stuff floating in the coolant also speaks volumes to QC at swiftech. I'm done with them.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> when i hook the fans up individually to the fan ports on the mobo, they work... when they are hooked to the splitter, don't work.
> 
> the amount of yellow stuff floating in the coolant also speaks volumes to QC at swiftech. I'm done with them.


You can get that with any loop. Guess you are new to watercooling. You can clean it, is what the whole custom loop is for watercooling.
Swiftech is great with support and can help you your issue. You got 18 months, which is good. Any tech product can fail anytime.
Have you checked the splitter you getting proper connection with molex/sata power.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can get that with any loop. Guess you are new to watercooling. You can clean it, is what the whole custom loop is for watercooling.
> Swiftech is great with support and can help you your issue. You got 18 months, which is good. Any tech product can fail anytime.
> Have you checked the splitter you getting proper connection with molex/sata power.


I'm not new to it, but what I am new to is accepting 18 months as good when a product is advertised as 3 years maintenance free. Don't advert what you can't do, plain and simple.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It is with any warranty. 1, 2 or even 5 years. Anything can happen during that time. Nothing is perfect in technology.
Maintenance free is there, but gives you option to fill yourself. That is what you are not seeing or understand.
I've had my H220 going for 2 year without issues. I've already drained, cleaned and filled. Which is part of watercooling.
If this is something you are not familiar with, stick with air cooling.

You said the fans work without the splitter. Did the pump work?
Yellow stuff float? Might be plasticiser.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is with any warranty. 1, 2 or even 5 years. Anything can happen during that time. Nothing is perfect in technology.
> Maintenance free is there, but gives you option to fill yourself. That is what you are not seeing or understand.
> I've had my H220 going for 2 year without issues. I've already drained, cleaned and filled. Which is part of watercooling.
> If this is something you are not familiar with, stick with air cooling.
> 
> You said the fans work without the splitter. Did the pump work?
> Yellow stuff float? Might be plasticiser.


I'm leaning towards bad splitter as he's never said yes or no to pump working on the cpu header...the yellow stuff iirc was seperation of the coolant in some of the units but I'm thinking those were the glossy tube models which were also changed due to white plasticizer issues...I don't know how long mine would have ran maintenance free as it was only ran maybe two weeks before it was expanded and torn down and has been done so probably 8 times since...from what I've gathered the coolant can separate if just sitting on a shelf for too long so far I've ran distilled only without biocide (not recommended) and so far no gunk in my loop other than some tube shavings I missed when I first expanded they gathered in the cpu block..didn't effect temperatures but could have...at least these units can easily be flushed and filled...I've seen people do this on other aio or clc but it's not easy and without a fillport they must be submerged to fill without getting air in and even then it's I hope and pray the pull doesn't have a bubble when it runs again...


----------



## Mega Man

All i hear is "waa, I don't like this" really sad, wonder what people would do with aios if they could sees inside lol


----------



## duckyboy

Thinking about giving Swiftech another chance in the cooling department(just going to wait until issues rise from their new AIO then buy the revised one). but can anyone answer this question-Will the dyes given build up junk and clog components of the cooler like other dyes or is this safe from that?

Have no experience with dyes, I just switch out the tubing with coloured tubing usually.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Thinking about giving Swiftech another chance in the cooling department(just going to wait until issues rise from their new AIO then buy the revised one). but can anyone answer this question-Will the dyes given build up junk and clog components of the cooler like other dyes or is this safe from that?
> 
> Have no experience with dyes, I just switch out the tubing with coloured tubing usually.


Both tubing and dye are made by Mayhem.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Both tubing and dye are made by Mayhem.


So for all of the Prestige models, do they all have G1/4 ports? or do I still need that G1/4 adapter for that Outlet port on the pump just like the old H240-X?


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So for all of the Prestige models, do they all have G1/4 ports? or do I still need that G1/4 adapter for that Outlet port on the pump just like the old H240-X?


All of the X2 kit come with G1/4 adapter pre-installed.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> All of the X2 kit come with G1/4 adapter pre-installed.


Oh I see, nice! Just wondering, why didn't you guys have a built in G1/4 port on the pump? Why make it to use the adapter?


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm leaning towards bad splitter as he's never said yes or no to pump working on the cpu header...the yellow stuff iirc was seperation of the coolant in some of the units but I'm thinking those were the glossy tube models which were also changed due to white plasticizer issues...I don't know how long mine would have ran maintenance free as it was only ran maybe two weeks before it was expanded and torn down and has been done so probably 8 times since...from what I've gathered the coolant can separate if just sitting on a shelf for too long so far I've ran distilled only without biocide (not recommended) and so far no gunk in my loop other than some tube shavings I missed when I first expanded they gathered in the cpu block..didn't effect temperatures but could have...at least these units can easily be flushed and filled...I've seen people do this on other aio or clc but it's not easy and without a fillport they must be submerged to fill without getting air in and even then it's I hope and pray the pull doesn't have a bubble when it runs again...


Pump is intermittent.

Shiny tube spec.

No expansion of loop.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> Pump is intermittent.
> 
> Shiny tube spec.
> 
> No expansion of loop.


From the faulty splitter that is not working could have power issues to cause intermittent pump problems.
Tubing can be changed and yes you can expand the loop.
You can add GPU block, another rad.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> From the faulty splitter that is not working could have power issues to cause intermittent pump problems.
> Tubing can be changed and yes you can expand the loop.
> You can add GPU block, another rad.


oh i know i can expand the loop . I'm just shocked at how quickly it all fell apart. (NB: I'm not new to loops, but i was shocked that an AIO loop, even though it's expandable, could die so fast)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> oh i know i can expand the loop . I'm just shocked at how quickly it all fell apart. (NB: I'm not new to loops, but i was shocked that an AIO loop, even though it's expandable, could die so fast)


Fast is being DoA or within a few days, not 18 months.
It is like you expected H220-X to fail by the way you talk.

Have you tested the pump itself without splitter? Not once have you even mentioned if it did?
There is step you can do yourself that could fix issues happening.

If you need another splitter, you can contact Swiftech and they can replace it.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Fast is being DoA or within a few days, not 18 months.
> It is like you expected H220-X to fail by the way you talk.
> 
> Have you tested the pump itself without splitter? Not once have you even mentioned if it did?
> There is step you can do yourself that could fix issues happening.
> 
> If you need another splitter, you can contact Swiftech and they can replace it.


I have a very conservative mindset. If something advertises 3 years maintenance free, and fails at 18 months, to me that's fast. Likewise, if something advertises 40 years, and it lasts 35 years, still fast. The pump is intermittent regardless of hookup. Either way, I'm done unless consensus on the X2 is that Swiftech has improved things substantially. I almost went EKWB but there are clearance issues with a 240mm rad up top and fans... by LESS THAN a millimeter.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I have a very conservative mindset. If something advertises 3 years maintenance free, and fails at 18 months, to me that's fast. Likewise, if something advertises 40 years, and it lasts 35 years, still fast. The pump is intermittent regardless of hookup. Either way, I'm done unless consensus on the X2 is that Swiftech has improved things substantially. I almost went EKWB but there are clearance issues with a 240mm rad up top and fans... by LESS THAN a millimettr.


I wouldn't quite put it "3 years maintenance free" as I read that you're expected to change the fluid after ~2years. It does come with a 3 year limited warranty so you should contact them about that. though I can't see your pump and fans failing at the same time which would point to the splitter, which is easy to replace.

Every now and again components fail, this is to be expected so I wouldn't complain too much when it happens. The issue is how the company treat you when these matters arise. My situation is a little more serious as there seems to be some kind of leak only after a few months which has potential dire ramifications for the rest of my system. I'm just in talks with Swiftech to find the best way to proceed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I almost went EKWB but there are clearance issues with a 240mm rad up top and fans... by LESS THAN a millimeter.


So, springing leaks in a couple of weeks is acceptable?


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Is there a guide on how to install H320 X2 Prestige? I've only installed Hyper 212 Evo in the past and it broke my CPU. I really want to be sure this time because I have very expensive parts.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Is there a guide on how to install H320 X2 Prestige? I've only installed Hyper 212 Evo in the past and it broke my CPU. I really want to be sure this time because I have very expensive parts.


Hyper 212 should not break anything, unless install was done incorrectly.

Look around for some videos and follow the instructions.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Is there a guide on how to install H320 X2 Prestige? I've only installed Hyper 212 Evo in the past and it broke my CPU. I really want to be sure this time because I have very expensive parts.


Same install process as the H220-X -


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Is there a guide on how to install H320 X2 Prestige? I've only installed Hyper 212 Evo in the past and it broke my CPU. I really want to be sure this time because I have very expensive parts.


the great thing about swiftech blocks is the CPU block is spring loaded, so you get the same pressure NO MATTER WHAT i dunno about the new intel with the thin pcbs ! but afaik none have been damaged, but that may/may not change.

they CAN NOT be overtightened unless you somehow use the wrong mounting kit, and i dunno how you could !


----------



## rfarmer

Yeah I don't see how you could over tighten with the Swiftech blocks. I was worried that mine wasn't tight enough since it is all the way to the stops, but works fine.


----------



## ganzosrevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, springing leaks in a couple of weeks is acceptable?


Nope, which is why I'm probably going big air.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Is there a guide on how to install H320 X2 Prestige? I've only installed Hyper 212 Evo in the past and it broke my CPU. I really want to be sure this time because I have very expensive parts.


The Hyper 212 Evo mounting screws are also spring loaded. I know they can be a real pain to install as installing it was one of the most difficult experiences I've ever had but I do not see how it broke your CPU.

How exactly did you break your CPU?


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The Hyper 212 Evo mounting screws are also spring loaded. I know they can be a real pain to install as installing it was one of the most difficult experiences I've ever had but I do not see how it broke your CPU.
> 
> How exactly did you break your CPU?


Oh. I actually meant my motherboard. I believe I screwed it in too hard. It was a Z97-A.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Oh. I actually meant my motherboard. I believe I screwed it in too hard. It was a Z97-A.


or you press way too hard having the wrong size screwdriver







ph2 is what it uses iirc...a ph1 is too small and if there's any binding at all skips out and rounds the head of the screw and the drive resulting in more pressure being needed to turn the screw...also I never care if they are spring loaded screws or not always tighten in small increments in x pattern....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Oh. I actually meant my motherboard. I believe I screwed it in too hard. It was a Z97-A.


That sucks. I always only tighten until I feel a strong resistance but not until it is really tight. It is a little hard to explain but I think that is just a little beyond finger tight. Knowing this comes from many years of working on cars and what not that have aluminum structures that if you over tighten you can easily strip out the holes. I did that once back in the 80's on the engine block of my 280zx when I was replacing the valve cover gasket. Luckily it was real easy to rethread the holes....

Also, a good practice is to use the "X" pattern like @mfknjadagr8 mentioned.


----------



## Mega Man

even review sites that do hundreds of mounts per year have damaged the new intel cpus with the thin pcbs it can happen even to experienced users


----------



## arnavvr

I'm interested in buying a H320X2, but I'm interested to know what the difference between the X and the X2


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> I'm interested in buying a H320X2, but I'm interested to know what the difference between the X and the X2


changes include changes to the reservoir design, and it should be using the latest revision of swiftech's CPU blocks.

Tubing is mayhems clear tubing. I think it should come with 3 mayhem dye colors compared to the rubber tubing that swiftech used before.

fans should be the same unless you buy the prestige version, which comes with noisebloacker e-loop fans and the g1/4 fitting on the pump(i think)


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> changes include changes to the reservoir design, and it should be using the latest revision of swiftech's CPU blocks.
> 
> Tubing is mayhems clear tubing. I think it should come with 3 mayhem dye colors compared to the rubber tubing that swiftech used before.
> 
> fans should be the same unless you buy the prestige version, which comes with noisebloacker e-loop fans and the g1/4 fitting on the pump(i think)


Is the Mayhem clear tubing better than the rubber tubing Swiftech used before?


----------



## arnavvr

So right now its between swiftech h320x2 prestige and EK predator 360. Thoughts?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> So right now its between swiftech h320x2 prestige and EK predator 360. Thoughts?


The EK has some issue on some case, due to the length.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`m goin for the EK, ETA for 320x2 prestige in europe is end of march, wich is pretty ridiculous waiting for it to ship for 2 months


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`m goin for the EK, ETA for 320x2 prestige in europe is end of march, wich is pretty ridiculous waiting for it to ship for 2 months


Be sure you have a case that can support the extra length of the EK 360.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Define R5 will be just fine dont have any HDD or opticals in it anyway


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> So right now its between swiftech h320x2 prestige and EK predator 360. Thoughts?


Other than the Swiftechs generally showing better performance and lower noise in independent tests? And the Predator being on it's second go around of leak issues? And the Swiftech being much easier to fill and bleed when you expand? And the Swiftech being much better looking in most people's eyes?

Hmmm....other than those small points.....


----------



## outofmyheadyo

But shipping takes 2 months, what are they using turtles or something, anyways custom loop is only 75€ more expensive so I`d rather go that route.


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows if the old Swiftech H240-X use Ethylene Glycol for the coolant? What about their new X2 / X2Prestige series? thx


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Anyone knows if the old Swiftech H240-X use Ethylene Glycol for the coolant? What about their new X2 / X2Prestige series? thx


neither use that for their coolant...it's a distilled base with biocides added...afaik


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> neither use that for their coolant...it's a distilled base with biocides added...afaik


According to Swiftech's page it is: Pre-filled with non-toxic propylene glycol coolant mix

I know I switched mine out to distilled water with biocide.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> According to Swiftech's page it is: Pre-filled with non-toxic propylene glycol coolant mix
> 
> I know I switched mine out to distilled water with biocide.


propylene is different than ethylene but thanks for that clarification....


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Define R5 will be just fine dont have any HDD or opticals in it anyway


You mean the S? Or do you already have the 5 and removed the hdd and optical bays


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> even review sites that do hundreds of mounts per year have damaged the new intel cpus with the thin pcbs it can happen even to experienced users


They are that thin? I have been thinking of upgrading to a newer system just to go with DDR4 but that worries me. I may just wait to ensure I have the extra money in case something like that happens.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Anyone knows if the old Swiftech H240-X use Ethylene Glycol for the coolant? What about their new X2 / X2Prestige series? thx


no one has for like ever, you can, but it is mainly built for cars, and has relatively poor thermal properties
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> even review sites that do hundreds of mounts per year have damaged the new intel cpus with the thin pcbs it can happen even to experienced users
> 
> 
> 
> They are that thin? I have been thinking of upgrading to a newer system just to go with DDR4 but that worries me. I may just wait to ensure I have the extra money in case something like that happens.
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded/0_100

you can looks for something like skylake damaged by heatsink or other searches like that as well


----------



## outofmyheadyo

delete


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> You mean the S? Or do you already have the 5 and removed the hdd and optical bays


You can actually fit the 3 drive cage up front with a 280 that's 



. It's the same thing I'm going with since I need my physical drives.

Define S puts the 3 drives in the back so you don't have to worry about thickness, so that might actually be a better option if you haven't pulled the trigger on a case yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Or buy a case labs, and then not worry about it!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

quick test, had to use the CPU 45s as fittings havent arrived yet

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160207_082052.jpg.html

just hoping the pump can cope with 2 of these GPX highly restrictive blocks.
The again, long as temps are under 73-80c will be happy and will be able to dial down the blower fan speed to max 30%


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> quick test, had to use the CPU 45s as fittings havent arrived yet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160207_082052.jpg.html
> 
> 
> just hoping the pump can cope with 2 of these GPX highly restrictive blocks.
> The again, long as temps are under 73-80c will be happy and will be able to dial down the blower fan speed to max 30%


Looks good, are you adding an additional radiator? I have the H220-X with 240mm rad and gpu block. My 970 never sees over 55C.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, are you adding an additional radiator? I have the H220-X with 240mm rad and gpu block. My 970 never sees over 55C.


nice to hear, better then 83c and being repeatedly bombarded with a jet taking off if i get 55c









a H240X will be cooling the 2 cards, cant squeeze a 120mm rad at the rear due to the CPU cooler having its second fan at the end due to ram clearance issues



second alphacool block has arrived


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> nice to hear, better then 83c and being repeatedly bombarded with a jet taking off if i get 55c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a H240X will be cooling the 2 cards, cant squeeze a 120mm rad at the rear due to the CPU cooler having its second fan at the end due to ram clearance issues
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> second alphacool block has arrived


OIC you are just cooling the 2 gpu's with the H240-X and not the cpu, should work just fine.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

thats the plan









major issue is the head pressure of the pump being able to handle two of the alphablocks being double the restrictiveness of rival gpu/cpu blocks .

Have seen pump swaps with the more powerful MCP50X, so may have to attempt that. Dont really want the pump at full 100%


----------



## orbitalwalsh

also noticed on this version there is no bleed screw, and is a dirty beast haha


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> also noticed on this version there is no bleed screw, and is a dirty beast haha


i believe in the newer revisions of those coolers they done away with the bleed screw


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> i believe in the newer revisions of those coolers they done away with the bleed screw


So why is it so dirty?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> thats the plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> major issue is the head pressure of the pump being able to handle two of the alphablocks being double the restrictiveness of rival gpu/cpu blocks .
> 
> Have seen pump swaps with the more powerful MCP50X, so may have to attempt that. Dont really want the pump at full 100%


you should be fine with around 70 percent speed... i run mine at 100 percent and i have it running through 2 swiftech blocks... a cpu block... and three rads... two reserviors... the flow isnt stellar but it keeps things at acceptable temperatures....these pumps tend to come alive at around 65 and up... i doubt youll have an issue here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> i believe in the newer revisions of those coolers they done away with the bleed screw


yes they did... if i were the owner of that cooler i would contact swiftech and have them send a refill kit and rinse and refill that sucker.. it looks like the seperation of the coolant...


----------



## Bruticis

Just curious if anyone has used the H320-X2 in Thermaltake Core X9? I'm a little concerned about the tubing length.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So why is it so dirty?


My 240x had a little if that sawdust look which was coolant separation. It broke down and disappeared after running it for half hour.
Just make sure it doesn't get worse or stay there as it will be algae growth and will need flushing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> thats the plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> major issue is the head pressure of the pump being able to handle two of the alphablocks being double the restrictiveness of rival gpu/cpu blocks .
> 
> Have seen pump swaps with the more powerful MCP50X, so may have to attempt that. Dont really want the pump at full 100%
> 
> 
> 
> you should be fine with around 70 percent speed... i run mine at 100 percent and i have it running through 2 swiftech blocks... a cpu block... and three rads... two reserviors... the flow isnt stellar but it keeps things at acceptable temperatures....these pumps tend to come alive at around 65 and up... i doubt youll have an issue here
Click to expand...

i keep telling people, dont worry about rads and res. they dont matter in picking out a pump, 99.9% of builds in terms of restriction.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you should be fine with around 70 percent speed... i run mine at 100 percent and i have it running through 2 swiftech blocks... a cpu block... and three rads... two reserviors... the flow isnt stellar but it keeps things at acceptable temperatures....these pumps tend to come alive at around 65 and up... i doubt youll have an issue here
> yes they did... if i were the owner of that cooler i would contact swiftech and have them send a refill kit and rinse and refill that sucker.. it looks like the seperation of the coolant...


luckily the tubing and fluid isnt going to be used, was just surprised by it. Just makes you wonder whats floating about in all AIO coolers. haha


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> luckily the tubing and fluid isnt going to be used, was just surprised by it. Just makes you wonder whats floating about in all AIO coolers. haha


especially the ones with no res....


----------



## dansi

Hi Swiftech,
Can the new X2 rad/pump be mounted in any 4 directions?
In X1, it was recommended to mount in only 3 possible directions, and i had to skip that because i use RV02E, and i must put the rad/pump on the bottom section.


----------



## djchup

My friend just received his H240 X2 Prestige (he doesn't post here). He sent me a pic, and his tubing and radiator had water droplets all over them when he opened the packaging. Obviously, there's a leak somewhere and I'm not there to help him troubleshoot it. I was just wondering if anyone here had heard of these shipping with a leak?

Here is one of the images he provided me, with water droplets visible on the radiator.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Hi Swiftech,
> Can the new X2 rad/pump be mounted in any 4 directions?
> In X1, it was recommended to mount in only 3 possible directions, and i had to skip that because i use RV02E, and i must put the rad/pump on the bottom section.


http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> My friend just received his H240 X2 Prestige (he doesn't post here). He sent me a pic, and his tubing and radiator had water droplets all over them when he opened the packaging. Obviously, there's a leak somewhere and I'm not there to help him troubleshoot it. I was just wondering if anyone here had heard of these shipping with a leak?
> 
> Here is one of the images he provided me, with water droplets visible on the radiator.


Get him to drop some of the Dye it ships with, and some tissue at the joins, easier to spot for himself and easy to add the dye aswell.
although would need to be fired up outside the case to check leak


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Get him to drop some of the Dye it ships with, and some tissue at the joins, easier to spot for himself and easy to add the dye aswell.
> although would need to be fired up outside the case to check leak


This is precisely what I instructed him to do.











I just figured I'd ask here in case this was a known issue that one of you was aware of.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

would help him identify the problem to the vendors/ swiftech , hopefully its just a lose fitting but if its worse he'll be able to show proof


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> would help him identify the problem to the vendors/ swiftech , hopefully its just a lose fitting but if its worse he'll be able to show proof


Will do. I'll also report back here to you guys when the problem is identified.


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


Oh dear, so the X2 is still limited to 3 directions?
I thought i saw Linus video it was mounted on the 4th direction?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Oh dear, so the X2 is still limited to 3 directions?
> I thought i saw Linus video it was mounted on the 4th direction?


Watching Linus videos has an affect very similar to eating lead paint. Try to avoid them in the same way.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Oh dear, so the X2 is still limited to 3 directions?
> I thought i saw Linus video it was mounted on the 4th direction?


Outside of inverse cases, which should have alternative mounting options, I don't see how this would be a problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dansi*
> 
> Oh dear, so the X2 is still limited to 3 directions?
> I thought i saw Linus video it was mounted on the 4th direction?


You watched a Linus video and can still think? You sir, have a much stronger stomach than I do.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You watched a Linus video and can still think? You sir, have a much stronger stomach than I do.


Linus has a review video of the X2? I thought he hasn't review them yet, he only has a video from CES 2016 just showing the X2 coolers and that's it.


----------



## djchup

Updating my previous post, I went over to my friends place to investigate his potentially leaky unit that he received today. With the pump running, there was indeed a leak that appeared to be somewhere around where the pump and reservoir are attached (It's possible there was a crack in the acrylic where I was unable to see it). It would've been impossible to find the exact location of the leak without doing more disassembly than it was worth doing (considering the product can just be RMA'd). I took a couple cell-phone pictures of where I saw water leaking (these pictures were taken after pump was running for around 2 minutes after I thoroughly dried everything with tissues and napkins), and told my friend to just start Newegg's RMA process.

A little ironic with water leaking out just below the 'QC Pass' sticker.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> Updating my previous post, I went over to my friends place to investigate his potentially leaky unit that he received today. With the pump running, there was indeed a leak that appeared to be somewhere around where the pump and reservoir are attached (It's possible there was a crack in the acrylic where I was unable to see it). It would've been impossible to find the exact location of the leak without doing more disassembly than it was worth doing (considering the product can just be RMA'd). I took a couple cell-phone pictures of where I saw water leaking (these pictures were taken after pump was running for around 2 minutes after I thoroughly dried everything with tissues and napkins), and told my friend to just start Newegg's RMA process.
> 
> A little ironic with water leaking out just below the 'QC Pass' sticker.


Tell your friend that he shouldn't be too surprised, Switch isn't exactly know for Quality in regards of their AIOS coming from someone who went through a **** ton of H220s and 3 H220Xs. Something to learn here is to never buy their products on release and wait for the 2nd maybe 3rd revision if they go that far.

Which is why plenty of people I know and myself gave up on their AIOS and went to EKWB, corsair for one, or decided to build a custom loop(if your intent was to expand) Which is an area where Swifttech is some what decent at, i.e. Radiators Pump some blocks.

There is a reason why Swiftechs AIO are so cheap, compared to a company like EKWB


----------



## dansi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Linus has a review video of the X2? I thought he hasn't review them yet, he only has a video from CES 2016 just showing the X2 coolers and that's it.


Yap is CES2016 one, where i saw a X2 mounted with the res on the mystical 4th horizontal direction.

Linus is in the clear here.


----------



## jincuteguy

Yea it's kinda suck that all these X2 coolers are out but no one review them yet besides that H320 - X2 Prestige review from Tweaktown.
We need to see how's the H240-X2 prestige perform and compare to the other coolers, EK 240 and as well as a real Custom Loop.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea it's kinda suck that all these X2 coolers are out but no one review them yet besides that H320 - X2 Prestige review from Tweaktown.
> We need to see how's the H240-X2 prestige perform and compare to the other coolers, EK 240 and as well as a real Custom Loop.


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/H220_X2_Prestige/

http://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/swiftech-h220-x2-cpu-liquid-cooler-review


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Tell your friend that he shouldn't be too surprised, Switch isn't exactly know for Quality in regards of their AIOS coming from someone who went through a **** ton of H220s and 3 H220Xs. Something to learn here is to never buy their products on release and wait for the 2nd maybe 3rd revision if they go that far.
> 
> Which is why plenty of people I know and myself gave up on their AIOS and went to EKWB, corsair for one, or decided to build a custom loop(if your intent was to expand) Which is an area where Swifttech is some what decent at, i.e. Radiators Pump some blocks.
> 
> There is a reason why Swiftechs AIO are so cheap, compared to a company like EKWB


Not to bag onto EK, but you know EK's predator had a recall and a reported leak right? It's normal for any company to have problems. Corsair has an 87 page thread on pump problems. Just don't be the guy to try anything that the first for many products that test the water (no pun intended)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Not to bag onto EK, but you know EK's predator had a recall and a reported leak right? It's normal for any company to have problems. Corsair has an 87 page thread on pump problems. Just don't be the guy to try anything that the first for many products that test the water (no pun intended)


the predators even the post recalled ones are having some pump issues too... im beginning to think its issues with the manufacturers they are buying the rubber seals from...both ek and swiftech have had some issues with this... don t get me started on corsair...im thinking the problems here are the outsourced parts that are failing...they are using what are generally considered quality parts but they are not getting the quality from said manufacturer as they used to...from porous o rings to pump failures...to say ek is doing so great is a fallacy... each company right now is having some issues... honestly i hope both of these two top tier companies swiftech and ek get things ironed out and get things rolling... nothing like good competition to drive innovation... as weve seen already with both companies... dont throw swiftech under the bus nor ek.... itll get fixed... both are handling things properly....


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Not to bag onto EK, but you know EK's predator had a recall and a reported leak right? It's normal for any company to have problems. Corsair has an 87 page thread on pump problems. Just don't be the guy to try anything that the first for many products that test the water (no pun intended)


Yeah the thing with EKWB is that they live up to their quality reputation, and had a complete recall for all 1.0 and offered the 1.1 as a replacement, refund, and would pay for any damage that their cooler may have caused. According to linus they said it was like 5-10% of units that had the leaking issue, but EK decides to recall all 1.0s(good on them) Swiftech on the other hand do not do any of that other than giving you solutions to fix or a new unit. no recalls or anything when they know their product is at fault.

and with my personal experience I can say that corsair H100 lasted way longer than my 4 brand new H220s(got one RMA after the other) . Since I had so many problems with the H220 swiftech hooked me up with the H220X(good for them) then sadly I got problems with the pump on that, then another one leaking from the bleed port. Which they said they would give me a new one, so now I've had like a good 6 returns, and BS from shipping to them and waiting.
I gave up, chucked the cooler out, Built myself a custom loop using all Swiftech parts except for fittings, cpu block, and Res (i7 3770k build which I use at the office now, lucky me=) ) then a Noctua d15 for my new x99 build at home. which I am considering to go custom again until I saw the H320X2 that caught my eye, but I held off to wait for swiftech to fix their **** again then buy a revised one, because I remember how sad their QC is in china factories. Why I don't go custom again? I'm lazy..

Will give an A + job to swiftech for their customer support, due to my situation and friends I would assume they get a lot of emails and complaints about their previous AIOS. Maybe the H320X2 will fix their rep?
I know Swiftech can make some great quality watercooling gear, I just don't understand why their all in ones are like the complete opposite of all their other products.


----------



## Mega Man

with that many issues i would have to place the ebkac sorry ;/ statistically possible, but highly unlikely


----------



## ganzosrevenge

I got my H220x out, and I'm going to go big-air. However...

the backplate for the H220x seems to be stuck to the motherboard. Short of taking a flathead screwdriver and crowbar-ing the backplate off, how do I remove it without damaging my mobo?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I got my H220x out, and I'm going to go big-air. However...
> 
> the backplate for the H220x seems to be stuck to the motherboard. Short of taking a flathead screwdriver and crowbar-ing the backplate off, how do I remove it without damaging my mobo?


The pins for the backplate do fit rather tightly. I haven't had to break out the tools for it, though.

Use a small screwdriver/awl/pen/something pointy and push the pins through from the front of the MB.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with that many issues i would have to place the ebkac sorry ;/ statistically possible, but highly unlikely


EBKAC ? Pretty sure the switch rep here can confirm, and they stated it was their unit at fault.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> EBKAC ? Pretty sure the switch rep here can confirm, and they stated it was their unit at fault.


What is EbKac? EKWaterblock? And who is Switch rep? You mean Swiftech rep?


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganzosrevenge*
> 
> I got my H220x out, and I'm going to go big-air. However...
> 
> the backplate for the H220x seems to be stuck to the motherboard. Short of taking a flathead screwdriver and crowbar-ing the backplate off, how do I remove it without damaging my mobo?


Did you use the included adhesive bits? If so you can try taking a hair dryer and heating the adhesive until it comes loose.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What is EbKac? EKWaterblock? And who is Switch rep? You mean Swiftech rep?


Error Between Keyboard And Chair, I believe.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Error Between Keyboard And Chair, I believe.


that's actually not what I thought....nice...ebkac for some reason I read it as ebcak which is a syrup to induce vomiting lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's actually not what I thought....nice...ebkac for some reason I read it as ebcak which is a syrup to induce vomiting lol


LOL that could also work!

*I have a couple questions for those that have the H320X2:*

How is it working so far?

What problems have you had to work through with it?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> LOL that could also work!
> 
> *I have a couple questions for those that have the H320X2:*
> 
> How is it working so far?
> 
> What problems have you had to work through with it?


Dont think anyone has any issue with these new Swiftech X2 coolers, only EK Predator are having a lot of issues .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Error Between Keyboard And Chair, I believe.


And speaking of ebkac......

We have these posts in the owner's club from users who post in it almost daily:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> *I have a couple questions for those that have the H320X2:*
> 
> How is it working so far?
> 
> What problems have you had to work through with it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dont think anyone has any issue with these new Swiftech X2 coolers, only EK Predator are having a lot of issues .


And this, posted at almost the same time in another thread by a CLC user:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> The new switftech series has QC issues, not much, but still an issue. Check the owners club.


And we wonder where the unfounded rap comes from......


----------



## Bruticis

I just received my new Swiftech H320 X2 and the instructions are a little sparse for a complete water noob like myself. There's some tiny air bubbles in the line so I assume I need to bleed it, so how exactly do I bleed it?







Secondly, should I decide to add the dye later, do I add the entire bottle? Feeling a little overwhelmed I might screw something up (despite the fact I've been building PCs for over 10 years). Any other tips I should I know or things to watch out for? Go kind on the water cooling noob, please!


----------



## Mega Man

you shouldnt have to worry about the air bubles

as to the dye my understanding is add as much till you get the color you want then stop


----------



## kevindd992002

Why won't you need to worry about air bubbles?


----------



## Scrimstar

is the difference between 240X2 and pretige version and 320X2 prestige big?

which is the quietest


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why won't you need to worry about air bubbles?


they will work themselves out of the system as it runs and should end up in your res ( you want some air in your res, it allows for thermal expansion )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> is the difference between 240X2 and pretige version and 320X2 prestige big?
> 
> which is the quietest


the 320 will be as there are more fans you can run them quieter


----------



## Scrimstar

i dont want to run them quieter, just performance/db

this reviews says theyre as loud as Corsair hydros
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they will work themselves out of the system as it runs and should end up in your res ( you want some air in your res, it allows for thermal expansion )


Ah ok. Does that mean that it's always recommended to leave a little bit of air bubble when bleeding any system? When I refill my H220X, how do I know when I'm already done bleeding it then?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> i dont want to run them quieter, just performance/db
> 
> this reviews says theyre as loud as Corsair hydros
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


this i cant help with sorry i personally just dont trust tweak town much there are only 2 or 3 guys i trust with watercooling reviews martin ( now retired ) and http://thermalbench.com/ run by one of our very own !!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they will work themselves out of the system as it runs and should end up in your res ( you want some air in your res, it allows for thermal expansion )
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok. Does that mean that it's always recommended to leave a little bit of air bubble when bleeding any system? When I refill my H220X, how do I know when I'm already done bleeding it then?
Click to expand...

i recommend it
with or without air when the water heats up it will expand, air can compress liquid cant, thus the air will "absorb" most of the pressure

either way pressure is on all the joints, generally with a system as small as a loop it doesnt matter, but i prefer to give myself as many "tricks of the trade as possible,

your water system in many/most of th eus, now it is required to install a expansion tank ( with a rubber liner like a balloon ) to take away this pressure i am talking about, large boiler systems have them ( many different types, some just like this air in res )

it is a personal choice, but that is what i recommend


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> is the difference between 240X2 and pretige version and 320X2 prestige big?
> 
> which is the quietest


As Mega Man said. I'll add radiator size and airflow specs.
H240 X2 radiator area is 392sq cm.
H320 X2 radiator area is 432sq cm.
But Prestige models also have different fans as well as different fittings. I doubt he fitting make any difference, but the fans do.
H240 X2 fans 90cfm & 2.29 mmH₂O 2 x 90 = 180cfm
Prestige are 123cfm & 2.35 mmH₂O 2 x 123 = 246cfm

H320 X2 fans 55cfm and 2.29 mmH₂O 3 x 55 = 165cfm
Prestige are 77cfm and 2.24 mmH₂O 3 x 77 = 231cfm


----------



## VSG

I am still curious about the 140mm eLoops on the new H240-X2 Prestige. They are rated at 1800 RPM which is way more than any of the retail 140mm eLoops and goes against what Blacknoise told me. The max airflow is less than even the B14-PS specs that is rated at 1200 RPM but the noise level is is line with the 1800 RPM number. I just put up my review of the B14-3 and B14-PS fans on the website that Megaman linked above and the lack of a higher speed option was one thing I would definitely have liked to see changed.


----------



## Mega Man

i dunno what you are talking about


----------



## VSG

There is something off with the listed specs in the H240-X2 Prestige essentially. The 140mm eLoops aren't 25mm thick, there is no 1800 RPM retail model, the static pressure listed is way more and the airflow listed is way less. Unless this is a completely custom design from Blacknoise, I think the numbers are off somewhere.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> i dont want to run them quieter, just performance/db
> 
> this reviews says theyre as loud as Corsair hydros
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7501/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


There is a solution to that - stop using Tweaktown as a reference when any of their advertisers/sponsors are involved. That circumstance produces decidedly different numbers than any reputable test you will find.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am still curious about the 140mm eLoops on the new H240-X2 Prestige. They are rated at 1800 RPM which is way more than any of the retail 140mm eLoops and goes against what Blacknoise told me. The max airflow is less than even the B14-PS specs that is rated at 1200 RPM but the noise level is is line with the 1800 RPM number. I just put up my review of the B14-3 and B14-PS fans on the website that Megaman linked above and the lack of a higher speed option was one thing I would definitely have liked to see changed.


Maybe they move more air though the radiator because of higher static pressure specification? While the unrestricted airflow specification is less, but static pressure spec is 1.08mm vs 2.24 mmH₂O. Just noticed the NB -eLoop Swiftech is using is spec'ed at 25mm thick while the NB eLoops spec sheet shows them all as 29mm. NB specs are m³/h while Swifech is using cfm.

We need to get you a couple to test.


----------



## Kutalion

He already has tested the 140mm eloops. I HIGHLY doubt there is a custom 25mm design for Swiftech, almost impossible due to the way they engineered the fans.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i recommend it
> with or without air when the water heats up it will expand, air can compress liquid cant, thus the air will "absorb" most of the pressure
> 
> either way pressure is on all the joints, generally with a system as small as a loop it doesnt matter, but i prefer to give myself as many "tricks of the trade as possible,
> 
> your water system in many/most of th eus, now it is required to install a expansion tank ( with a rubber liner like a balloon ) to take away this pressure i am talking about, large boiler systems have them ( many different types, some just like this air in res )
> 
> it is a personal choice, but that is what i recommend


What happens if you totally get rid of the air bubbles and the liquid expands? Too much pressure on all the joints that tends to increase possibility of leaks?

When refilling the H220X, how do I know when to stop? How do I know that I'm leaving enough air bubble as room for liquid expansion?


----------



## Mega Man

Your risk is almost zero, it really is personal pref, not like we are talking about a loop the size of a building. But yes it does increase pressure, again however not that much


----------



## MR-e

I originally bought a H220 X which came with a defective pump, decided to replace it by trying a r1.1 Predator. Unfortunately, the Vardar fans on it were too loud and the rad was too thick to close my case so properly so now I'm back in the Swiftech camp with the H320 X2. Will try to fit it tomorrow to test, hopefully no dud pump this time


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I originally bought a H220 X which came with a defective pump, decided to replace it by trying a r1.1 Predator. Unfortunately, the Vardar fans on it were too loud and the rad was too thick to close my case so properly so now I'm back in the Swiftech camp with the H320 X2. Will try to fit it tomorrow to test, hopefully no dud pump this time


So u returned the Predator?


----------



## Nephurus

Has anyone expanded the h2020 x2 for both cpu and gpu ? and if so got any pics?


----------



## alus415

Hi all,

Just installed my H220 X2 Prestige and I'm happy overall with the performance , now I'm hoping someone here can maybe tell me if there is any way to lower the fan speeds? I obviously used the PWM splitter which you connect to CPU-FAN1 and HWMonitor is telling me that FANIN0 is running at 1400rpm always. From a few reviews they all say "the cooler comes with a PWM hub so you can keep the fans in check" well I went into my BIOS and selected the silent profile and doesn't seem to do anything, on my Noctua cooler when I selected the quiet profile the RPM dropped from 1200 rpm to 800 rpm for example. So maybe I'm confused a bit, is anyone else fans always spinning at around 1400 rpm? if not how are you guys lowering it.

The second thing I'm not really happy about is actually my case, I have a Define R4 and this case is really not made for water cooling especially on top the H220 radiator is touching my motherboard , there is hardly any clearance on top and of course can't really move the radiator forward on top. So what cases are you guys using that you could recommend for this type of coolers like H100i, H220 + etc.

Thanks for any info/advice


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just installed my H220 X2 Prestige and I'm happy overall with the performance , now I'm hoping someone here can maybe tell me if there is any way to lower the fan speeds? I obviously used the PWM splitter which you connect to CPU-FAN1 and HWMonitor is telling me that FANIN0 is running at 1400rpm always. From a few reviews they all say "the cooler comes with a PWM hub so you can keep the fans in check" well I went into my BIOS and selected the silent profile and doesn't seem to do anything, on my Noctua cooler when I selected the quiet profile the RPM dropped from 1200 rpm to 800 rpm for example. So maybe I'm confused a bit, is anyone else fans always spinning at around 1400 rpm? if not how are you guys lowering it.
> 
> The second thing I'm not really happy about is actually my case, I have a Define R4 and this case is really not made for water cooling especially on top the H220 radiator is touching my motherboard , there is hardly any clearance on top and of course can't really move the radiator forward on top. So what cases are you guys using that you could recommend for this type of coolers like H100i, H220 + etc.
> 
> Thanks for any info/advice


Try connect the fan separately into motherboard, and pump pwm to another header (check if pump power consumption < 1amp)


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just installed my H220 X2 Prestige and I'm happy overall with the performance , now I'm hoping someone here can maybe tell me if there is any way to lower the fan speeds? I obviously used the PWM splitter which you connect to CPU-FAN1 and HWMonitor is telling me that FANIN0 is running at 1400rpm always. From a few reviews they all say "the cooler comes with a PWM hub so you can keep the fans in check" well I went into my BIOS and selected the silent profile and doesn't seem to do anything, on my Noctua cooler when I selected the quiet profile the RPM dropped from 1200 rpm to 800 rpm for example. So maybe I'm confused a bit, is anyone else fans always spinning at around 1400 rpm? if not how are you guys lowering it.
> 
> The second thing I'm not really happy about is actually my case, I have a Define R4 and this case is really not made for water cooling especially on top the H220 radiator is touching my motherboard , there is hardly any clearance on top and of course can't really move the radiator forward on top. So what cases are you guys using that you could recommend for this type of coolers like H100i, H220 + etc.
> 
> Thanks for any info/advice


Phanteks Enthoo luxe has heaps of radiator support especially if you're planning on expanding your loop. Depends on what you like the look of and size you want.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just installed my H220 X2 Prestige and I'm happy overall with the performance , now I'm hoping someone here can maybe tell me if there is any way to lower the fan speeds? I obviously used the PWM splitter which you connect to CPU-FAN1 and HWMonitor is telling me that FANIN0 is running at 1400rpm always. From a few reviews they all say "the cooler comes with a PWM hub so you can keep the fans in check" well I went into my BIOS and selected the silent profile and doesn't seem to do anything, on my Noctua cooler when I selected the quiet profile the RPM dropped from 1200 rpm to 800 rpm for example. So maybe I'm confused a bit, is anyone else fans always spinning at around 1400 rpm? if not how are you guys lowering it.
> 
> The second thing I'm not really happy about is actually my case, I have a Define R4 and this case is really not made for water cooling especially on top the H220 radiator is touching my motherboard , there is hardly any clearance on top and of course can't really move the radiator forward on top. So what cases are you guys using that you could recommend for this type of coolers like H100i, H220 + etc.
> 
> Thanks for any info/advice


Sounds like your CPU fan header might not supplying PWM signal or you have something plugged in wrong in cooling system.
Can you manually setup van curves with your motherboard? Motherboard manual should have instructions for this.

As for caes i agree with above, Phanteks are quite nice and reasonably priced too.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As Mega Man said. I'll add radiator size and airflow specs.
> H240 X2 radiator area is 392sq cm.
> H320 X2 radiator area is 432sq cm.
> But H320 X2models also have different fans as well as different fittings. I doubt he fitting make any difference, but the fans do.
> H240 X2 fans 90cfm & 2.29 mmH₂O 2 x 90 = 180cfm
> Prestige are 123cfm & 2.35 mmH₂O 2 x 123 = 246cfm
> 
> H320 X2 fans 55cfm and 2.29 mmH₂O 3 x 55 = 165cfm
> Prestige are 77cfm and 2.24 mmH₂O 3 x 77 = 231cfm


What DB/sound and performance difference should I be expecting between H320 X2 Prestige and normal H240 X2? I can fit both, OCing 5820k to 4.5GHz.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> What DB/sound and performance difference should I be expecting between H320 X2 Prestige and normal H240 X2? I can fit both, OCing 5820k to 4.5GHz.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The test chart you posted shows the performance difference.
Specifcations show a 4.6dB difference is fan noise, but that data is open air fan noise, not the combined noise of fan working on radiator. I have not had the privilege of testing these coolers so can only guess, but my guess is noise levels will be similar at same speed.

But that is misleading. Reason is the added cooling ability means the fans on Prestige should not have to spin as fast to maintain the the same CPU temperature and therefore should be quieter. I say should because without actually testing it is only an _ass_umption and _ass_umption can be wrong.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephurus*
> 
> Has anyone expanded the h2020 x2 for both cpu and gpu ? and if so got any pics?


Lots of pics here - http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Swiftech+h220-x+expansion


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just installed my H220 X2 Prestige and I'm happy overall with the performance , now I'm hoping someone here can maybe tell me if there is any way to lower the fan speeds? I obviously used the PWM splitter which you connect to CPU-FAN1 and HWMonitor is telling me that FANIN0 is running at 1400rpm always. From a few reviews they all say "the cooler comes with a PWM hub so you can keep the fans in check" well I went into my BIOS and selected the silent profile and doesn't seem to do anything, on my Noctua cooler when I selected the quiet profile the RPM dropped from 1200 rpm to 800 rpm for example. So maybe I'm confused a bit, is anyone else fans always spinning at around 1400 rpm? if not how are you guys lowering it.
> 
> The second thing I'm not really happy about is actually my case, I have a Define R4 and this case is really not made for water cooling especially on top the H220 radiator is touching my motherboard , there is hardly any clearance on top and of course can't really move the radiator forward on top. So what cases are you guys using that you could recommend for this type of coolers like H100i, H220 + etc.
> 
> Thanks for any info/advice


As already stated, it certainly appears that you are not getting a PWM signal to your components. It could be a bad PWM splitter, but is more likely a MB setting. If you tell us what MB you are using, someone can tell you how to fix it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Try connect the fan separately into motherboard, and pump pwm to another header (check if pump power consumption < 1amp)


Two things wrong with this - First, this isn't some CLC, the pump gets power from SATA, not the MB, so it draws nothing. It only takes PWM signal from the MB. Second, if the MB is set for VR rather than PWM, doing this gives the illusion that the PWM splitter is bad. The fan will change speeds due to voltage changes, but that will not work when he hooks all back up correctly to use PWM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As already stated, it certainly appears that you are not getting a PWM signal to your components. It could be a bad PWM splitter, but is more likely a MB setting. If you tell us what MB you are using, someone can tell you how to fix it.
> Two things wrong with this - First, this isn't some CLC, the pump gets power from SATA, not the MB, so it draws nothing. It only takes PWM signal from the MB. Second, if the MB is set for VR rather than PWM, doing this gives the illusion that the PWM splitter is bad. The fan will change speeds due to voltage changes, but that will not work when he hooks all back up correctly to use PWM.


Give that man a cigar!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As already stated, it certainly appears that you are not getting a PWM signal to your components. It could be a bad PWM splitter, but is more likely a MB setting. If you tell us what MB you are using, someone can tell you how to fix it.
> Two things wrong with this - First, this isn't some CLC, the pump gets power from SATA, not the MB, so it draws nothing. It only takes PWM signal from the MB. Second, if the MB is set for VR rather than PWM, doing this gives the illusion that the PWM splitter is bad. The fan will change speeds due to voltage changes, but that will not work when he hooks all back up correctly to use PWM.


also aren't some pwm devices prone to damage from being used on vr ports?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> also aren't some pwm devices prone to damage from being used on vr ports?


Yes, and the pump in the X and X2 series is a prime example. But, Swiftech didn't give you the option to make that mistake since the pump is powered directly from the PSU.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, and the pump in the X and X2 series is a prime example. But, Swiftech didn't give you the option to make that mistake since the pump is powered directly from the PSU.


true enough...there aren't many pumps that are powered solely from header anymore are there?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Lots of pics here - http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Swiftech+h220-x+expansion


He was asking about the X 2, not that many pics of that expanded.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> He was asking about the X 2, not that many pics of that expanded.


I would have imagined that he wanted pics of the expansion, not the shape of the res.....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> true enough...there aren't many pumps that are powered solely from header anymore are there?


That is still the norm for CLCs. You would have to be out of your mind to plug an Asetek pump into your MB.....


----------



## Nick-F

Just recently purchased the H240x unit , and WOW ! soooo much better than my corsair H110i GT , MUCH quieter , better looking and temps are almost 10 Deg C better . Only downside is the black tubing looks really naff , but I am changing that for clear tubing and pastel blue coolant .

idleandprimetemps.png 1906k .png file


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Just recently purchased the H240x unit , and WOW ! soooo much better than my corsair H110i GT , MUCH quieter , better looking and temps are almost 10 Deg C better . Only downside is the black tubing looks really naff , but I am changing that for clear tubing and pastel blue coolant .
> 
> idleandprimetemps.png 1906k .png file


enjoy ! and i am going to steal your quote to use in another thread !


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Just recently purchased the H240x unit , and WOW ! soooo much better than my corsair H110i GT , MUCH quieter , better looking and temps are almost 10 Deg C better . Only downside is the black tubing looks really naff , but I am changing that for clear tubing and pastel blue coolant .
> 
> idleandprimetemps.png 1906k .png file


See what we have been telling you (collective CLC using "you", not you specifically) all along?

I actually did the head to head review on those two units. The noise comparison still cracks me up.


----------



## Nick-F

That's no prob Mega Man , which thread ?


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1590547


----------



## FXformat

Here's my H220X with hard lines all around, the bend back to the res was a complete nightmare because of the nature of my case. In the end it was worth it, I like the way it sits now, i'm flushing the system out then will add Pastel Ice White coolant. The blue dye from the last build is stubborn, a few more cycles and it should clear up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Here's my H220X with hard lines all around, the bend back to the res was a complete nightmare because of the nature of my case. In the end it was worth it, I like the way it sits now, i'm flushing the system out then will add Pastel Ice White coolant. The blue dye from the last build is stubborn, a few more cycles and it should clear up.


That is a great looking build - one of the nicest I have seen using the H220-X.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So u returned the Predator?


Yes, I returned the predator cause my case wouldn't close properly as it's too wide.

Another question, do you guys know whether the Prestige eloops can be used in a Pull config without any drone?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Do they make a qdc for hardline? That would be the only way I would go hardline I think...I'm dreading possibly having to fill and drain my loop twice to test this problematic card...with hardline it'd be even worse without a proper drain setup


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Here's my H220X with hard lines all around, the bend back to the res was a complete nightmare because of the nature of my case. In the end it was worth it, I like the way it sits now, i'm flushing the system out then will add Pastel Ice White coolant. The blue dye from the last build is stubborn, a few more cycles and it should clear up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stunning!








Amazing what a "starter kit" can turn into!








You really did an outstanding job.








and







just because it is such a great job.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Just recently purchased the H240x unit , and WOW ! soooo much better than my corsair H110i GT , MUCH quieter , better looking and temps are almost 10 Deg C better . Only downside is the black tubing looks really naff , but I am changing that for clear tubing and pastel blue coolant .
> 
> idleandprimetemps.png 1906k .png file


I don't believe that the H240X is 10C better than the Corsair H110i GT, they should be the same or within 1-3c degree of each other.


----------



## MR-e

I have only the pump plugged in on a H320 X2, set fan header to pwm mode, save and exit bios, re-enter bios and set fan header to silent profile and it's still making this ruckus.

Can you guys tell me if this is normal?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Do they make a qdc for hardline? That would be the only way I would go hardline I think...I'm dreading possibly having to fill and drain my loop twice to test this problematic card...with hardline it'd be even worse without a proper drain setup


You can use them or just put in a real drain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Just recently purchased the H240x unit , and WOW ! soooo much better than my corsair H110i GT , MUCH quieter , better looking and temps are almost 10 Deg C better . Only downside is the black tubing looks really naff , but I am changing that for clear tubing and pastel blue coolant .
> 
> idleandprimetemps.png 1906k .png file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe that the H240X is 10C better than the Corsair H110i GT, they should be the same or within 1-3c degree of each other.
Click to expand...

o say it isn't so... there really are corsair fanbois I am shocked, I never would of believed there Are real fanbois, come, the corsair must be avenged !

now please go check most if not all real reviews, not biased ones


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I have only the pump plugged in on a H320 X2, set fan header to pwm mode, save and exit bios, re-enter bios and set fan header to silent profile and it's still making this ruckus.
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this is normal?


Can't really hear anything from your vid, but if it's making noises, try adding a tiny drop of dishwashing soap into it. It works, i had to do that earlier, it'll help push the bubbles out and will make the pump quiet down.


----------



## davevti

Hi there,

H220 owner here, I have been having issues of late with my unit, the dreaded noisy pump issue..

I have tried every tip/guide etc on reducing and clearing air inside the loop, from shaking/tilting/washing up liquid etc.but all of which made little to no difference.

Now recently after discovering that the warranty was out of date, I decided to take apart the pump unit to see if I could find anything that could be causing the problem. I found a few tiny pieces of plastic (which I put down to the manufacturing process) a build up of some kind of life and nothing else. At this point I decided to clean everything and put it back together, I used a nice video on YouTube by a polish gent who advises certain steps to take when rebuilding the unit and what not to do etc.
So I added some clear piping and proceeded to bleed the unit (several times) and once again there was little to no change









Today I decided to strip it down once again and do some testing, I flooded the impeller section, rotated by hand, topped it up and switched it on.. It made a little mess but there was no sound, ran completely silent... Great! I thought, adding the mid section and copper plate by hand it still made little to no noise. Awesome!... Now unfortunately the joy didn't last, somewhere between inserting the screws and the bleeding procedure brought back the same arrghh!!! noise!!!

And this is where I am.... Its currently sitting there, clicking away, leak testing and fingers crossed, bleeding itself. I'm gonna put it back in and warm it up and see if that helps - 4th time lucky?









Sorry for the long post but I thought if you guys don't know how to help... No one does...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can use them or just put in a real drain
> o say it isn't so... there really are corsair fanbois I am shocked, I never would of believed there Are real fanbois, come, the corsair must be avenged !
> 
> now please go check most if not all real reviews, not biased ones


Come on man, even I don't believe that 10 ºC drop is from just the cooler swap.


----------



## Mega Man

i disagree, if you are trying to stay within a lower profile ( sound wise ) it is perfectly believable, unless cosair finally started using less dense rads that i never knew about

esp with the jets they keep passing off as fans ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i disagree, if you are trying to stay within a lower profile ( sound wise ) it is perfectly believable, unless cosair finally started using less dense rads that i never knew about
> 
> esp with the jets they keep passing off as fans ?


Well now we are getting into specific circumstances, and guess games. But yeah, I can see that being a possibility.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Can't really hear anything from your vid, but if it's making noises, try adding a tiny drop of dishwashing soap into it. It works, i had to do that earlier, it'll help push the bubbles out and will make the pump quiet down.


This is odd, the sound is definitely there when I review the recording on my phone... it's like a ticking bad bearing sound when on the silent uefi profile. After cranking it up to max speed, it sounds like a normal loud pump. Lowest rpm I saw in bios has it hover around 1700, and maxing out at 2900 :S


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i cant help much either :/


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> This is odd, the sound is definitely there when I review the recording on my phone... it's like a ticking bad bearing sound when on the silent uefi profile. After cranking it up to max speed, it sounds like a normal loud pump. Lowest rpm I saw in bios has it hover around 1700, and maxing out at 2900 :S


I can hear a rattle noise in your video. Try moving the pump around above and below the rest of the cooler just in case it's an air bubble in there.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> This is odd, the sound is definitely there when I review the recording on my phone... it's like a ticking bad bearing sound when on the silent uefi profile. After cranking it up to max speed, it sounds like a normal loud pump. Lowest rpm I saw in bios has it hover around 1700, and maxing out at 2900 :S


One drop of dishwashing soap


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can hear a rattle noise in your video. Try moving the pump around above and below the rest of the cooler just in case it's an air bubble in there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> One drop of dishwashing soap


I pretty much 360'd the entire AIO for 10 mins shaking the air bubbles out and added 2 drops of dawn dish soap. Let it run for an hour at max rpm and went to bios to change profiles back to silent. Unfortunately, it still ticks at the same frequency as when I pulled it out of the box. This is my second H series which has this pump issue, albeit, the first one was much worse, the ticking didn't go away until 65% duty cycle. I'm going to return it tomorrow and try the Predator again, I'll see about filling down part of the case panel and or the screws to try and get it to fit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I pretty much 360'd the entire AIO for 10 mins shaking the air bubbles out and added 2 drops of dawn dish soap. Let it run for an hour at max rpm and went to bios to change profiles back to silent. Unfortunately, it still ticks at the same frequency as when I pulled it out of the box. This is my second H series which has this pump issue, albeit, the first one was much worse, the ticking didn't go away until 65% duty cycle. I'm going to return it tomorrow and try the Predator again, I'll see about filling down part of the case panel and or the screws to try and get it to fit.


For 2 times to happen is not right. Something is causing it.
How have you hooked up the H320X?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Here's my H220X with hard lines all around, the bend back to the res was a complete nightmare because of the nature of my case. In the end it was worth it, I like the way it sits now, i'm flushing the system out then will add Pastel Ice White coolant. The blue dye from the last build is stubborn, a few more cycles and it should clear up.


That's such a nice build. Cool case with the detached pci slots.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Here's my H220X with hard lines all around, the bend back to the res was a complete nightmare because of the nature of my case. In the end it was worth it, I like the way it sits now, i'm flushing the system out then will add Pastel Ice White coolant. The blue dye from the last build is stubborn, a few more cycles and it should clear up.


Nice man, did you have to buy that G1/4 adapter from Swiftech for the outlet port of the H220X pump? What hardline tubing size are u using and what fittings? thx.


----------



## FXformat

Thanks mate...yes you have to get the adapter from eBay. Tubing is standard 1/2" ID 5/8" OD. Fittings are primochill rigid compressions. Rotary 90 degree fittings are EK.

Pump is pretty powerful, and my cpu and gpu are well wishing operating temps during 4K gaming.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Thanks mate...yes you have to get the adapter from eBay. Tubing is standard 1/2" ID 5/8" OD. Fittings are primochill rigid compressions. Rotary 90 degree fittings are EK.
> 
> Pump is pretty powerful, and my cpu and gpu are well wishing operating temps during 4K gaming.


thx man, how did you fill up the loop? did u have to put the case sideway?


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I don't believe that the H240X is 10C better than the Corsair H110i GT, they should be the same or within 1-3c degree of each other.


Well , I can fully understand your scepticism, but I have no reason to make it up . I used same app to measure temps ( core temp ) . Running Prime 95 , my temps went from highest at 82 Deg C , down to 72 with swiftech . Perhaps my H110 was not performing as it should , but they are my numbers .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Well , I can fully understand your scepticism, but I have no reason to make it up . I used same app to measure temps ( core temp ) . Running Prime 95 , my temps went from highest at 82 Deg C , down to 72 with swiftech . Perhaps my H110 was not performing as it should , but they are my numbers .


Note 'perhaps' at all. Something is definitely not as it should be. 'Perhaps' if you had given some indication that 10c seems extreme the replies would not have been so 'skeptical'.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Well , I can fully understand your scepticism, but I have no reason to make it up . I used same app to measure temps ( core temp ) . Running Prime 95 , my temps went from highest at 82 Deg C , down to 72 with swiftech . Perhaps my H110 was not performing as it should , but they are my numbers .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Note 'perhaps' at all. Something is definitely not as it should be. 'Perhaps' if you had given some indication that 10c seems extreme the replies would not have been so 'skeptical'.


As someone who has tested the two a number of times, I'm not skeptical at all. There are a number of circumstances that this would be the norm - most notably keeping the H110i GT at a noise level tolerable enough to stay in the same room with.

What system are you running? CPU, MB, GPU, case?


----------



## Nick-F

i7 [email protected] 4.3 GHz ( 1.2 v ) Sabertooth , evga gtx 980 Ti hybrid , Corsair Air 540 , 2x120 intake front panel with hybrid rad at bottom , intake as well , swiftech at top exhausting , 140 at rear exhausting


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> i7 [email protected] 4.3 GHz ( 1.2 v ) Sabertooth , evga gtx 980 Ti hybrid , Corsair Air 540 , 2x120 intake front panel with hybrid rad at bottom , intake as well , swiftech at top exhausting , 140 at rear exhausting


A 10 degree difference in P95 with that setup is completely believable depending on how the H110i GT and your current fan curves are set. I was getting about a 7-8 degree difference at similar noise levels on a 4770K, and one would expect that would increase on an X99 which has better heat transfer.


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A 10 degree difference in P95 with that setup is completely believable depending on how the H110i GT and your current fan curves are set. I was getting about a 7-8 degree difference at similar noise levels on a 4770K, and one would expect that would increase on an X99 which has better heat transfer.


I have ALL fans running from the PWM header that came with the unit , my H110i GT I used the corsair link , tried so many different variations of fan settings , that's why I tried out the seiftech , sooo pleased I did . I am going to start customising this week .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As someone who has tested the two a number of times, I'm not skeptical at all. There are a number of circumstances that this would be the norm - most notably keeping the H110i GT at a noise level tolerable enough to stay in the same room with.
> 
> What system are you running? CPU, MB, GPU, case?


Sorry, should have said not as it should be if both are running a maximum capacity. You are correct, it is not just possible but probable at same or similar noise levels.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> I have ALL fans running from the PWM header that came with the unit , my H110i GT I used the corsair link , tried so many different variations of fan settings , that's why I tried out the seiftech , sooo pleased I did . I am going to start customising this week .


The beauty of a quality product with components that have ability to be changed and/or expanded upon.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> thx man, how did you fill up the loop? did u have to put the case sideway?


The case is very modular, to fill the loop i removed the side IO panel to get access to the fillport. I can also drain it by tilting the case over on a table and let it drain out.


----------



## doyll

Has anyone tested the new X2 Prestige NB eLoops pulling from radiator?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> For 2 times to happen is not right. Something is causing it.
> How have you hooked up the H320X?


First was the H240 X, which I purchased for a 6700K build. The pump on that was terrible so it was returned. Now on the X99 build, I went with the H320 X2 hoping to get a better pump - no good. I installed it out of the case by connecting the Pump Sata to my psu and the pump PWM connector directly to my mobo pwm header. Ran it 100% duty cycle for 10 mins to get the air bubbles out while shaking and twisting, turning like one of those bop-it toys back in the 90's. After that, I switched fan profiles to silent and that's where the ticking starts - Same routine for both H240 X and H 320 X2.

I tried everything from 2 drops of Dawn dish soap to the equivalent of strapping the thing onto a jack hammer to get air bubbles out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Has anyone tested the new X2 Prestige NB eLoops pulling from radiator?


doyll, I asked this a page back or so and haven't received a response either. I'm thinking of ordering an X2 Prestige and running it in Pull config, but I've read that eloops drone/buzz when used in Pull so I'm kind of worried... especially if the 3rd H unit comes with a bunk pump, that's definitely going to suck.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> The case is very modular, to fill the loop i removed the side IO panel to get access to the fillport. I can also drain it by tilting the case over on a table and let it drain out.


Oh nice I see. I didn't know there's another port on the side of the H240X.

Yea I can't fill my H240X like that cause my case is not like yours, it's NZXT 810 Switch. So I can't get access to the fill port unles I take the H240X out of the case.

Also, when you fill it, you have to put your case flat on the table right? You can't fill it with the case standing like that?


----------



## FXformat

You have to lie it flat on the table, you cannot fill it standing up because it'll spill out. If you're using soft tubing you can move it around and fill it before putting it back in, righ rigid lines you pretty much need to drill a hole where the fill port would be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Oh nice I see. I didn't know there's another port on the side of the H240X.
> 
> Yea I can't fill my H240X like that cause my case is not like yours, it's NZXT 810 Switch. So I can't get access to the fill port unles I take the H240X out of the case.
> 
> Also, when you fill it, you have to put your case flat on the table right? You can't fill it with the case standing like that?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> First was the H240 X, which I purchased for a 6700K build. The pump on that was terrible so it was returned. Now on the X99 build, I went with the H320 X2 hoping to get a better pump - no good. I installed it out of the case by connecting the Pump Sata to my psu and the pump PWM connector directly to my mobo pwm header. Ran it 100% duty cycle for 10 mins to get the air bubbles out while shaking and twisting, turning like one of those bop-it toys back in the 90's. After that, I switched fan profiles to silent and that's where the ticking starts - Same routine for both H240 X and H 320 X2.
> 
> I tried everything from 2 drops of Dawn dish soap to the equivalent of strapping the thing onto a jack hammer to get air bubbles out.
> doyll, I asked this a page back or so and haven't received a response either. I'm thinking of ordering an X2 Prestige and running it in Pull config, but I've read that eloops drone/buzz when used in Pull so I'm kind of worried... especially if the 3rd H unit comes with a bunk pump, that's definitely going to suck.


Have you tried one of these 'defective' units on a different psu and motherboard? Wouldn't be the first time the 'tick' was the result of one of them.









Thanks for the pull info. Seems no testing has been done or at lest not reported.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> First was the H240 X, which I purchased for a 6700K build. The pump on that was terrible so it was returned. Now on the X99 build, I went with the H320 X2 hoping to get a better pump - no good. I installed it out of the case by connecting the Pump Sata to my psu and the pump PWM connector directly to my mobo pwm header. *Ran it 100% duty cycle for 10 mins to get the air bubbles out* while shaking and twisting, turning like one of those bop-it toys back in the 90's. After that, I switched fan profiles to silent and that's where the ticking starts - Same routine for both H240 X and H 320 X2.
> 
> I tried everything from 2 drops of Dawn dish soap to the equivalent of strapping the thing onto a jack hammer to get air bubbles out.
> doyll, I asked this a page back or so and haven't received a response either. I'm thinking of ordering an X2 Prestige and running it in Pull config, but I've read that eloops drone/buzz when used in Pull so I'm kind of worried... especially if the 3rd H unit comes with a bunk pump, that's definitely going to suck.


Did you, by any chance, let either of these run for a couple of days to see if they needed to finish bleeding?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried one of these 'defective' units on a different psu and motherboard? Wouldn't be the first time the 'tick' was the result of one of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the pull info. Seems no testing has been done or at lest not reported.


I had an Asus Impact VIII, Gene VIII when I tested the H240 X with a Corsair AX650 PSU. After those still had a ticking issue, I switched over to an Asus X99M-WS and EVGA 850 P2 PSU. With the X99 config, I had already sent back the H240 X and purchased the current H320 X2. I wanted to use the AIO this time around for convenience sake with the built in pump+res. But after all these returns, I'm just going to go with custom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Did you, by any chance, let either of these run for a couple of days to see if they needed to finish bleeding?


I have not, the longest I bled the H320 X2 for was a total of 3 hours. At this point, I'm just going to return it and go custom. The 10 minute bleed was only the initial bleed after pulling it out of the box. After the ticking noise, I continued for 3 hours.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I had an Asus Impact VIII, Gene VIII when I tested the H240 X with a Corsair AX650 PSU. After those still had a ticking issue, I switched over to an Asus X99M-WS and EVGA 850 P2 PSU. With the X99 config, I had already sent back the H240 X and purchased the current H320 X2. I wanted to use the AIO this time around for convenience sake with the built in pump+res. But after all these returns, I'm just going to go with custom.
> I have not, the longest I bled the H320 X2 for was a total of 3 hours. At this point, I'm just going to return it and go custom. The 10 minute bleed was only the initial bleed after pulling it out of the box. After the ticking noise, I continued for 3 hours.


Most times these take a day or two to get all of the air bubbles out. Many have reported noisy pumps out of the box that subsides in 24-48 hours.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Most times these take a day or two to get all of the air bubbles out. Many have reported noisy pumps out of the box that subsides in 24-48 hours.


Thank you, that's good to know for future references.







At this point, I've already dropped off the H320 X2 so there's no turning back now unless I pull a Fast and Furious UPS truck heist.


----------



## ghostrider85

Just waiting for an sli fitting


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Just waiting for an sli fitting


Is that the Prestige version? Or regular?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Is that the Prestige version? Or regular?


Just the regular, i got some bitspower fittings.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Just waiting for an sli fitting


Nice, build! By the way, have you test the unit yet? We have some issue with the old version of the splitter that you had, the solder join was too weak and may easy come off, cause ALED not working correctly and/or pump not working. We have update to rev2 splitter, so all current units should have rev 2 in the box.
More information and instruction on how to get rev2 splitter on this page: http://www.swiftech.com/technicalbulletin2-9-16.aspx


----------



## alus415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Try connect the fan separately into motherboard, and pump pwm to another header (check if pump power consumption < 1amp)


I checked everything and all the cables are connected to the the splitter according to the instructions. You are suggesting i connect the fans to the sys_fan and the pump to the cpu_fan ?

But also for reference what is everyone's fan rpm for this unit ? Again mine are always at 1600 rpm. H220 X2 Prestige


----------



## jincuteguy

Does the H320 - X2 (not Prestige ) come with the G1/4 adapter built in for the pump outport? I know the Prestige does, just not sure about the non-Prestige.
And I know the original X series does not and people have to buy the G1/4 adapter from Swiftech.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Does the H320 - X2 (not Prestige ) come with the G1/4 adapter built in for the pump outport? I know the Prestige does, just not sure about the non-Prestige.
> And I know the original X series does not and people have to buy the G1/4 adapter from Swiftech.


All the X2 models have G1/4 threads for every port. No adapter needed with X2!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> All the X2 models have G1/4 threads for every port. No adapter needed with X2!


U sure? I thought they still use the Adapter but it's pre-installed?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> U sure? I thought they still use the Adapter but it's pre-installed?


Oops, yes the pump port still uses the adapter, but it's pre-installed for the X2 regular and X2 Prestige.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Oops, yes the pump port still uses the adapter, but it's pre-installed for the X2 regular and X2 Prestige.


U're 100% sure about the X2 regular right? Cause I dont wanna buy the H320 X2 regular then have to order the adapter


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Nice, build! By the way, have you test the unit yet? We have some issue with the old version of the splitter that you had, the solder join was too weak and may easy come off, cause ALED not working correctly and/or pump not working. We have update to rev2 splitter, so all current units should have rev 2 in the box.
> More information and instruction on how to get rev2 splitter on this page: http://www.swiftech.com/technicalbulletin2-9-16.aspx


Yeah, i tested it right out of the box if it has some faults, it is working fine, pump and leds. How do i check if i have the new revision? I just got mine from amazon last week.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Does the H320 - X2 (not Prestige ) come with the G1/4 adapter built in for the pump outport? I know the Prestige does, just not sure about the non-Prestige.
> And I know the original X series does not and people have to buy the G1/4 adapter from Swiftech.


The non prestige one came with a 90 degree swivel adapter which is a PLASTIC.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Yeah, i tested it right out of the box if it has some faults, it is working fine, pump and leds. How do i check if i have the new revision? I just got mine from amazon last week.


Look at the link in his post. The revised splitter has a raised center section between the headers.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> U're 100% sure about the X2 regular right? Cause I dont wanna buy the H320 X2 regular then have to order the adapter


I had the H320 X2 as of this morning so I'm 100% confident you'll have the adapter too, hehe


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I had the H320 X2 as of this morning so I'm 100% confident you'll have the adapter too, hehe


But if you were to add like let say another Radiator or a GPU block, how do you fill the loop up? Cuase the fill port is on the side of the H320, and not at the top?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But if you were to add like let say another Radiator or a GPU block, how do you fill the loop up? Cuase the fill port is on the side of the H320, and not at the top?


You tilt your case, or look at the pics i posted above.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> You tilt your case, or look at the pics i posted above.


OH I see that you have to use extra fittings







Cause I know after you filled it up, you can't close the port (cause water will spill out) unless you used extra fittings with a stop plugs like that







thx


----------



## mfknjadagr8

one thing im wondering with these new units... why didnt they go with the mcp50x pump instead of the 35 again am i missing something? that wouldve made more sense to me in a "top tier" product


----------



## VSG

The MCP50X is overkill for the AIO, and will only be louder at higher RPMs. Even if expanding, the MCP30 can handle 1-2 GPU blocks and rads. Targeted more at guys wanting to begin watercooling, having a super loud pump isn't the greatest idea.

I would actually like to see the MCP30 sold alongside the MCP50X myself. $55-60 price point would be nice. A dual top and a plexi top would be even better


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The MCP50X is overkill for the AIO, and will only be louder at higher RPMs. Even if expanding, the MCP30 can handle 1-2 GPU blocks and rads. Targeted more at guys wanting to begin watercooling, having a super loud pump isn't the greatest idea.
> 
> I would actually like to see the MCP30 sold alongside the MCP50X myself. $55-60 price point would be nice. A dual top and a plexi top would be even better


i see your point.. and it makes sense... im just thinking from a performance standpoint... but to be fair im one of those people who takes performance over noise and looks... but i understand the other side i just rarely think in those terms :0


----------



## arnavvr

Would you guys say it's worth the $40 more for the H320X2 Prestige over the H320X2?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> Would you guys say it's worth the $40 more for the H320X2 Prestige over the H320X2?


If money is not a issue and you want quiet performance not that the helix are loud then yes .you also get some nice fittings.
http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/PERF-DRIVE-X2-PRESTIGE.PNG
Edit predictive spell errors


----------



## jincuteguy

So if you didn't hook up the PWM cable for the pump, only the power cable, would the pump run at the maximum speed?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So if you didn't hook up the PWM cable for the pump, only the power cable, would the pump run at the maximum speed?


Yes it should


----------



## ghostrider85

Only downside to this is the fill port being on the side, worst is its on the lower portion


----------



## Bruticis

Quick question for the total noob. I just finished installing my H320 X2 Prestige and everything seems to be fine. If I have everything hooked up to the splitter (which in turn is hooked to the cpu fan slot) , what's the proper method to control the fan and pump speeds?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruticis*
> 
> Quick question for the total noob. I just finished installing my H320 X2 Prestige and everything seems to be fine. If I have everything hooked up to the splitter (which in turn is hooked to the cpu fan slot) , what's the proper method to control the fan and pump speeds?


What mobo do you have? I can control the pump speed and fan through my BIOS...


----------



## Bruticis

I've got an Asus Maximus VII Formula. What slot do the fans show up in the bios with everything connected to just the CPU fan slot? I was afraid I was going to have to dial everything up/down at one time without individual control if I used the splitter.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruticis*
> 
> I've got an Asus Maximus VII Formula. What slot do the fans show up in the bios with everything connected to just the CPU fan slot? I was afraid I was going to have to dial everything up/down at one time without individual control if I used the splitter.


if you hooked up everything to the Splitter, then the splitter hooked up to the cpu fan header, then u will control all the fans that hooked up to the splitter. So yes all the fans on the s plitter will be control all at once, not individually.


----------



## Velathawen

Custom is where we're all inevitably going to end up anyways, no harm in embracing the inevitable


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Custom is where we're all inevitably going to end up anyways, no harm in embracing the inevitable


Yeah I have to agree with you, Swiftech was for my first WC build to get my feet wet.









My next build will be a custom loop.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know where I can get a couple of the NB-eLoop 140mm fans like the ones on the H240 X2 Prestige.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get a couple of the NB-eLoop 140mm fans like the ones on the H240 X2 Prestige.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/ and amazon


----------



## NIK1

This one at Performance pcs Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS Bionic fan-Model: ITR-B14-PS shows 1200 rpm.Is not the ones on the H240 X2 Prestige PWM adjustable 500 ~ 1800 RPM .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> This one at Performance pcs Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS Bionic fan-Model: ITR-B14-PS shows 1200 rpm.Is not the ones on the H240 X2 Prestige PWM adjustable 500 ~ 1800 RPM .


It has been noted several times that the specs on the Swiftech site don't align with anything Noiseblocker does in 140mm, even down to the fan dimensions. Either it is a custom fan made specifically for Swiftech (unlikely, but possible), or the specs on Swiftech's site have an error (more likely).


----------



## NIK1

So the fans are probably 1200 rpm max.Mabey someone with a H240 X2 Prestige will post what the max rpm's on those fans are.


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows a review site or anyone on here that compare a real custom loop VS these Swiftech AIO i.e H220-X, H240-X, H220-X2/Prestige, H240-X2/Prestige, H320-X2/Prestige ? I just want to see a comprison between a real custom loop vs these. thx


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Anyone knows a review site or anyone on here that compare a real custom loop VS these Swiftech AIO i.e H220-X, H240-X, H220-X2/Prestige, H240-X2/Prestige, H320-X2/Prestige ? I just want to see a comprison between a real custom loop vs these. thx


Define a real custom loop, which is different from these. There are hundreds of different options for custom loops, out of which some assembled together will constitute these very coolers in terms of flow and thermal performance.


----------



## ghostrider85

So, my swiftech 980 ti backplates are shorting out my GPUs, cards runs fine without it, it doesn't boot with the backplates on, i tried calling swiftech's number but no one is answering


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Define a real custom loop, which is different from these. There are hundreds of different options for custom loops, out of which some assembled together will constitute these very coolers in terms of flow and thermal performance.


A custom loop with the same Radiator size? Ek cpu block, D5 pump, 240mm Radiator


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> So, my swiftech 980 ti backplates are shorting out my GPUs, cards runs fine without it, it doesn't boot with the backplates on, i tried calling swiftech's number but no one is answering


Do you have plastic washers between the PCB and the backplate screws?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> A custom loop with the same Radiator size? Ek cpu block, D5 pump, 240mm Radiator


If you are going to go with your own parts without a budget in mind, it will be better. I did test out an example high end custom loop using a Supremacy Evo, D5 pump, HWLabs Nemesis GTX and EK Vardar fans at the same speeds as the EK Predator 240 and it was 3-4 C better on average at relatively high heat loads (5960x on a custom XTU profile). It will be similar to the H220-X also, but I don't know about the newer ones. Is the money worth it? That's up to you.


----------



## ghostrider85

No, there are no plastic washers that came with it, nor was mentioned in the manual.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do you have plastic washers between the PCB and the backplate screws?
> If you are going to go with your own parts without a budget in mind, it will be better. I did test out an example high end custom loop using a Supremacy Evo, D5 pump, HWLabs Nemesis GTX and EK Vardar fans at the same speeds as the EK Predator 240 and it was 3-4 C better on average at relatively high heat loads (5960x on a custom XTU profile). It will be similar to the H220-X also, but I don't know about the newer ones. Is the money worth it? That's up to you.


Yea prob not worth it, unless I go for more than 1 Radiator for the Custom loop.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea prob not worth it, unless I go for more than 1 Radiator for the Custom loop.


I would agree, this is why I like what Swiftech, EK, Alphacool etc are doing here.


----------



## ghostrider85

I think i figured out where the backplate is shorting the gpu, i put a tape on it and it worked, i just hope there is no permanent damage.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> No, there are no plastic washers that came with it, nor was mentioned in the manual.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I think i figured out where the backplate is shorting the gpu, i put a tape on it and it worked, i just hope there is no permanent damage.


Let us know, and pics would be fantastic if possible. I am sure Swiftech would like to know what happened as well.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Let us know, and pics would be fantastic if possible. I am sure Swiftech would like to know what happened as well.


I dunno about the 980 blocks but there is a disclaimer in the 290 blocks which stated to check the length of the cap ends that stick through the back end of the pcb and trim accordingly... 1mm or less was the spec


----------



## ghostrider85

Two corners where the 3 thermal pads meets, i used electrical tape, you can see the indentation


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I dunno about the 980 blocks but there is a disclaimer in the 290 blocks which stated to check the length of the cap ends that stick through the back end of the pcb and trim accordingly... 1mm or less was the spec


There is nothing to trim on the 980 ti backplate, its all metal


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> There is nothing to trim on the 980 ti backplate, its all metal


not on the backplate...on the pcb of the card the cap traces come through at the solder points and were too long on some cards causing shorting issues with the backplate


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> There is nothing to trim on the 980 ti backplate, its all metal


Is your 980 Ti reference? I have a GM200 in my hand and there is nothing that tall enough to touch the backplate in that area. Also, all the resister in that area are shorter than the memory itself plus the thermal pad. I would like to see the back of the PCB and a side view so we may able to change the design to support that card.


----------



## Mega Man

sometimes that happens, it isnt on their 980 ti install guide but you ALWAYS want to check for shorts, on all their old guide they always said to cut pins ( KEY WORD pins, not smd components ! ) like the pcie power connectors as needed with side cutters- if they short out to the backplate ) now that said if they now boot and didnt before you probably are ok,

quality psus will stop this from happening, my rig i built all the psu cables, and still after checking 12 million times i managed to swap 12 v and ground on my 8 pin pcies--- it didnt boot, and everything is 100% functional to this day !

if they are pins ( like from the back of the pcie connector ) you can just snip them with side cutters if smd well nothing should be touching but what you did is ok,


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Is your 980 Ti reference? I have a GM200 in my hand and there is nothing that tall enough to touch the backplate in that area. Also, all the resister in that area are shorter than the memory itself plus the thermal pad. I would like to see the back of the PCB and a side view so we may able to change the design to support that card.


Yes, mine are reference cards, evga gtx 980 ti sc with reference blower type coolers. As you can see on the pics i posted above, there are some indentations on the electrical tape i that i installed, i am 100 percent sure that it is the backplate that causing issues, i took it off and reinstalled several times.


----------



## Dango

Ok, I just found what is the issue there. The block and back plate was original design for GM200-400(Titan X) which have memory in the back of the PCB. The 980 Ti was come after we design the block. Since two card share the same PCB design, the block + backplate should work on both. Most of the time yes. However, since the 980 ti doesn't have memory module in the back plus the tolerance on the backplate, in worst case scenario, the 3 resistor may contact with back plate(rarely happen..). The CES demo use 980 ti with that block and have no issue with the back plate.

Here is the solution:
1, Do not pill off the protector on the back plate thermal pad. This way it will give 0.1 mm so resistor won't contact with the back plate.
2, Use the protector on the thermal pad, move it to where resistor contact with the back plate to prevent short.
3, Add 1 mm washers to all the back plate stand off.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Ok, I just found what is the issue there. The block and back plate was original design for GM200-400(Titan X) which have memory in the back of the PCB. The 980 Ti was come after we design the block. Since two card share the same PCB design, the block + backplate should work on both. Most of the time yes. However, since the 980 ti doesn't have memory module in the back plus the tolerance on the backplate, in worst case scenario, the 3 resistor may contact with back plate(rarely happen..). The CES demo use 980 ti with that block and have no issue with the back plate.
> 
> Here is the solution:
> 1, Do not pill off the protector on the back plate thermal pad. This way it will give 0.1 mm so resistor won't contact the back plate.
> 2, Use the protector on the thermal pad, move it where resistor contact with the back plate to prevent short.
> 3, Add a 1 mm washer to all the back plate stand off.


What protector? And what washer size should i get? I mean the diameter in and out.


----------



## Dango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> What protector? And what washer size should i get? I mean the diameter in and out.


The protector is the blue-ish one on the memory thermal pad. For the washer 0.1" ID X.18"OD would work.(C3 washer?)


----------



## ghostrider85

Bad pic but here it is alive and kicking!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Bad pic but here it is alive and kicking!


Very nice man







But how did you fill the loop? The fill port is hidden inside the case.

Also, I see that you're using the 810 Switch case, but where did you get that thing at the bottom that cover up the PSU and the whole bottom? I have the 810 switch case too, but I dont think there's a cover like that?thx


----------



## ghostrider85

It's an h440 case. I attached a 90 degree fitting on the fillport so i have the fillport on top of the case. See my previous pics here just a couple of pages back.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> It's an h440 case. I attached a 90 degree fitting on the fillport so i have the fillport on top of the case. See my previous pics here just a couple of pages back.


OH i see, i thought that was someone else







Btw, what is that fitting that u have right after the red tubing and the stop plug? (for the fill port)


----------



## michael-ocn

I think i may have found a small problem with my h240x?

I've had it since october or november of last year, not the new prestige model. Never cracked it open, just plugged it in and have been happily running it since. Works great. Recently i started noticing an irregular noise when the pump speed gets going. I hadn't heard this sound before. I listened closely and don't believe it's coming from the pump itself. I can hear the pump's regular ticking which is not at all loud and is very regular. This new sounds is louder and irregular. A much slower irregular frequency than the pump rotation.

I think its coming from water/air interactions at the top of the res, gurgling noises i guess you could call this theory. I think there's more air in the loop now than when I first set it up a few months ago. I don't remember seeing any air at the top of the res at all at first, now i certainly can see air jostling around as the water starts flowing faster. Seems like the loop shouldn't be losing water / gaining air that quickly so i started looking around for leaks. I don't see any leaks, but I have noticed what i think is a small crack in the lower-right corner of the res window. It "feels" like a crack when i lightly move a small metal flathead screwdriver across it. Also it looks like the interior of the res is getting a greenish tint to it, algae i would suppose.

Some questions:

How frequently should i need to top-off the loop? Is topping off every few months expected due to evaporation?

How long would you expect it to take algae to establish itself in the factory sealed loop?

Could evaporation thru a small crack explain what I'm seeing and hearing?

Thnx


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think i may have found a small problem with my h240x?
> 
> I've had it since october or november of last year, not the new prestige model. Never cracked it open, just plugged it in and have been happily running it since. Works great. Recently i started noticing an irregular noise when the pump speed gets going. I hadn't heard this sound before. I listened closely and don't believe it's coming from the pump itself. I can hear the pump's regular ticking which is not at all loud and is very regular. This new sounds is louder and irregular. A much slower irregular frequency than the pump rotation.
> 
> I think its coming from water/air interactions at the top of the res, gurgling noises i guess you could call this theory. I think there's more air in the loop now than when I first set it up a few months ago. I don't remember seeing any air at the top of the res at all at first, now i certainly can see air jostling around as the water starts flowing faster. Seems like the loop shouldn't be losing water / gaining air that quickly so i started looking around for leaks. I don't see any leaks, but I have noticed what i think is a small crack in the lower-right corner of the res window. It "feels" like a crack when i lightly move a small metal flathead screwdriver across it. Also it looks like the interior of the res is getting a greenish tint to it, algae i would suppose.
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> How frequently should i need to top-off the loop? Is topping off every few months expected due to evaporation?
> 
> How long would you expect it to take algae to establish itself in the factory sealed loop?
> 
> Could evaporation thru a small crack explain what I'm seeing and hearing?
> 
> Thnx


How low is your level?
Algae should not be present if it is still sealed from factory , think it's 3 years.
No sign of coolant residue around the suspected crack ?
Post some pictures of it .


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> How low is your level?
> Algae should not be present if it is still sealed from factory , think it's 3 years.
> No sign of coolant residue around the suspected crack ?
> Post some pictures of it .


At slow idle speeds, i can see air right at the very top of the res window. When the pump is going harder, an obvious tongue of air dips down lower. It flirts with going under the top track. Sometimes small bubbles peel off the tongue and dance around.

No signs of residue that i can see.

I'll try to take some pics, maybe shoot a vid, and upload later.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think i may have found a small problem with my h240x?
> 
> I've had it since october or november of last year, not the new prestige model. Never cracked it open, just plugged it in and have been happily running it since. Works great. Recently i started noticing an irregular noise when the pump speed gets going. I hadn't heard this sound before. I listened closely and don't believe it's coming from the pump itself. I can hear the pump's regular ticking which is not at all loud and is very regular. This new sounds is louder and irregular. A much slower irregular frequency than the pump rotation.
> 
> I think its coming from water/air interactions at the top of the res, gurgling noises i guess you could call this theory. I think there's more air in the loop now than when I first set it up a few months ago. I don't remember seeing any air at the top of the res at all at first, now i certainly can see air jostling around as the water starts flowing faster. Seems like the loop shouldn't be losing water / gaining air that quickly so i started looking around for leaks. I don't see any leaks, but I have noticed what i think is a small crack in the lower-right corner of the res window. It "feels" like a crack when i lightly move a small metal flathead screwdriver across it. Also it looks like the interior of the res is getting a greenish tint to it, algae i would suppose.
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> How frequently should i need to top-off the loop? Is topping off every few months expected due to evaporation?
> 
> How long would you expect it to take algae to establish itself in the factory sealed loop?
> 
> Could evaporation thru a small crack explain what I'm seeing and hearing?
> 
> Thnx


You should call Swiftech they will send you another window to replace it. I had a small crack too and the coolant would leak through the crack and I had to top it off every two weeks. And it happen to some units where algae was found. So you might have to clean it out.. You see through the res the build up..


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> You should call Swiftech they will send you another window to replace it. I had a small crack too and the coolant would leak through the crack and I had to top it off every two weeks. And it happen to some units where algae was found. So you might have to clean it out.. You see through the res the build up..


Ok... thnx. Sounds like i'm on the right track as to what the problem is then. Yes, i can see a greenish fuzz on the plastic tracks. I'll get in touch with swiftech. I'll try pm'ing one of the reps here first i guess.

How difficult was it to replace the window and did you also replace the coolant? Did you get good instructions?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> OH i see, i thought that was someone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, what is that fitting that u have right after the red tubing and the stop plug? (for the fill port)


Can't recall the exact name but search for BITSPOWER CASE TOP, its actually two fittings, that CASE TOP and a regular compression fitting


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ok... thnx. Sounds like i'm on the right track as to what the problem is then. Yes, i can see a greenish fuzz on the plastic tracks. I'll get in touch with swiftech. I'll try pm'ing one of the reps here first i guess.
> 
> How difficult was it to replace the window and did you also replace the coolant? Did you get good instructions?


Its pretty easy to do. Not that hard.. I replaced the coolant too. But filling it to the top could be a little pain the rear and to get the bubbles out..


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Its pretty easy to do. Not that hard.. I replaced the coolant too. But filling it to the top could be a little pain the rear and to get the bubbles out..


I agree, i just built my first custom loop and filling up was a major pain, you got to tilt your case in all directions to get the bubbles out.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Its pretty easy to do. Not that hard.. I replaced the coolant too. But filling it to the top could be a little pain the rear and to get the bubbles out..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I agree, i just built my first custom loop and filling up was a major pain, you got to tilt your case in all directions to get the bubbles out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> How low is your level?
> Algae should not be present if it is still sealed from factory , think it's 3 years.
> No sign of coolant residue around the suspected crack ?
> Post some pictures of it .


Ok, thnx guys. I pm'd Dango, hopefully i'll hear back from him soon.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I agree, i just built my first custom loop and filling up was a major pain, you got to tilt your case in all directions to get the bubbles out.


Yea filling these Swiftech AIO coolers are really hard due to how the Reservoir is attached to the Rad. This is why I don't want to expand my H240-X yet due to the pain in the ass filling.
On the other hand, a custom loop with a separate Cylinder Reservoir is really easy to fill.


----------



## Mega Man

you can make this thing.... a fill port, they are pretty awesome


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can make this thing.... a fill port, they are pretty awesome


I did, and it's still pain in the rear, turn on the pump and it will almost empty the reservoir, you can't fill it up while the pump is running because the water won't just go in, turn the pump off and the water will all get dumped in the reservoir again, should have put that fill port on top


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I did, and it's still pain in the rear, turn on the pump and it will almost empty the reservoir, you can't fill it up while the pump is running because the water won't just go in, turn the pump off and the water will all get dumped in the reservoir again, should have put that fill port on top


Its more like off on off on off on off on till you can fill it and get the bubbles out.. It took me close to 2 hrs. to get those baby out..









and use on of these..


----------



## Mega Man

People always do things the hard way.

I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People always do things the hard way.
> 
> I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically


What exactly is "qdc"?


----------



## Mega Man

quick disconnect


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People always do things the hard way.
> 
> I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically


Nice tip actually, thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

np.

if i told you how long it took me to figure that out, yes i was one of the "people" that do things the hard way,

actually ITdiva has a great tip, fill your loop with an external tank ( large capacity ) and external pump.

now most average people dont need this , but for me, i love it,

several of my loops already take about 2 gal of water as it is....

scared what will happen when i go geothermal.... ( waiting till i redo my lawn ) although i think what i will do is bring it into my house in loop "a"

in loops 1, 2, 3, ect will have heat exchangers and be 100% isolated ! but that is another story in and of itself


----------



## d0mmie

I wonder if Swiftech will sell that wonderful new version of their PWM fan hub with the built-in LED control anytime soon... Me wants!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> I wonder if Swiftech will sell that wonderful new version of their PWM fan hub with the built-in LED control anytime soon... Me wants!


There's a new fan hub?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np.
> 
> if i told you how long it took me to figure that out, yes i was one of the "people" that do things the hard way,
> 
> actually ITdiva has a great tip, fill your loop with an external tank ( large capacity ) and external pump.
> 
> now most average people dont need this , but for me, i love it,
> 
> several of my loops already take about 2 gal of water as it is....
> 
> scared what will happen when i go geothermal.... ( waiting till i redo my lawn ) although i think what i will do is bring it into my house in loop "a"
> 
> in loops 1, 2, 3, ect will have heat exchangers and be 100% isolated ! but that is another story in and of itself


What do you mean by using a large Reservoir and external pump? So like attach a Large tank reservoir with pump to the Fill port?


----------



## Mega Man

yes,

most people dont need that ( as i said 2 of my loops take almost 2 ga each )

but using a spare res IMO everyone should as stated in post http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/18300_100#post_24903524


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People always do things the hard way.
> 
> I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically


Ok, so you need...
- small res tank with top that can be opened
- tubing
- qdcM + qdcF
- ?more tubing, or does the qdcF go right on fillport?
- h240x fillport
When your done filling, do you remove the qdc from the fillport and put the plug back in or to you leave the qdc there and rely on it to remain closed during regular use?

Lacking all those parts, would this work?
- tilt the case on end
- open the now upward facing fillport
- slip the end of a narrow funnel into the h240x res
- fill thru the funnel
Drat, i don't have a way to power the pump without turning the whole system on? Seems like you'd want to cycle the pump off/on during the filling process?

Would you please make a parts list for the qdc setup for aio people like me that would have a hard time piecing it together otherwise on their own? Thnx in advance.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People always do things the hard way.
> 
> I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically


Wait, with that setup, wouldn't that put pressure in your loop considering that the h220x or x2 doesn't have bleed port? Where would the air go while you are pumping water into the fill port?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> People always do things the hard way.
> 
> I recommend qdcs for a reason put a qdc on the fill port and then connect a tank ( I use a spare res without the top) and in the bottom of the res run a prove of tubing (soft) to the other qdc .. when your done you disconnect the qdc, no worries about spills ect as they close off automatically
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, so you need...
> - small res tank with top that can be opened
> - tubing
> - qdcM + qdcF
> 
> 1:
> 
> - ?more tubing, or does the qdcF go right on fillport?
> - h240x fillport
> 
> 2
> 
> When your done filling, do you remove the qdc from the fillport and put the plug back in or to you leave the qdc there and rely on it to remain closed during regular use?
> 
> 3
> 
> Lacking all those parts, would this work?
> - tilt the case on end
> - open the now upward facing fillport
> - slip the end of a narrow funnel into the h240x res
> - fill thru the funnel
> 
> 4
> 
> Drat, i don't have a way to power the pump without turning the whole system on? Seems like you'd want to cycle the pump off/on during the filling process?
> 
> 5
> 
> Would you please make a parts list for the qdc setup for aio people like me that would have a hard time piecing it together otherwise on their own? Thnx in advance.
Click to expand...

numbered the main questions in your quote ~

1 depends on the qdc, but yes it can go right on the fillport, you can also use angled fittings where needed ( 90deg /45deg fittings )
2 personal pref, i prefer to leave it IF i can if you are terribly scared they also make ball valves i have never had one leak , i have had them fail but only when disconnecting, and it usually isnt that bad/
3you def. can i would prefer to use this if i have to ( i have 2 and love them to quickly top off my system ( top off not fill )
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fill-port/4576/spritzflasche-500ml-pe-ld ( i have the aquacomputer one that comes with the fillport )
4 this one is easy, pull the 24 pin, 8 pin and any pcie connectors jump the 24 pin ( ps on to ground ( the only green wire to black wire, if your psu wires are all black google a 24 pin pinout and you can find it ) , when you power on your system fans and pumps and hdds will come on, quick fix and no damage to pc
5 i can but i will be using one site for links, in china and no access to google

1 qdc set ( male and female ) i prefer swiftech due to flexibility with ends
2 Tubing ( basic soft/w.e size, i prefer 3/4-1/2 )
3 fittings compression/barb/clamps as needed
4 basic res ( cheap one @! , however i like a large one personally )
5 misc fittings to adapt to your needs (90s ect)
6 a power supply jumper if needed

hope this helps


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> There's a new fan hub?


Yeah they showcased it in one of their presentation videos from.. CES 2016 I think? Instead of 8 x PWM it has 4 x PWM and two (or was it three?) connectors for LED strips, plus you can connect your reset button cable onto it, and control the lights with the reset button. Freaking genius!


----------



## ghostrider85

Better pic.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> numbered the main questions in your quote ~
> 
> 1 depends on the qdc, but yes it can go right on the fillport, you can also use angled fittings where needed ( 90deg /45deg fittings )
> 2 personal pref, i prefer to leave it IF i can if you are terribly scared they also make ball valves i have never had one leak , i have had them fail but only when disconnecting, and it usually isnt that bad/
> 3you def. can i would prefer to use this if i have to ( i have 2 and love them to quickly top off my system ( top off not fill )
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fill-port/4576/spritzflasche-500ml-pe-ld ( i have the aquacomputer one that comes with the fillport )
> 4 this one is easy, pull the 24 pin, 8 pin and any pcie connectors jump the 24 pin ( ps on to ground ( the only green wire to black wire, if your psu wires are all black google a 24 pin pinout and you can find it ) , when you power on your system fans and pumps and hdds will come on, quick fix and no damage to pc
> 5 i can but i will be using one site for links, in china and no access to google
> 
> 1 qdc set ( male and female ) i prefer swiftech due to flexibility with ends
> 2 Tubing ( basic soft/w.e size, i prefer 3/4-1/2 )
> 3 fittings compression/barb/clamps as needed
> 4 basic res ( cheap one @! , however i like a large one personally )
> 5 misc fittings to adapt to your needs (90s ect)
> 6 a power supply jumper if needed
> 
> hope this helps


Thnx, that does help somewhat. But the devil is in the details, all these places where you just 'misc this or that as needed' are the most mysterious parts.

This is too funny to not mention, i did a google image search for "basic tube res", this is what came up









https://www.google.com/search?q=basic+tube+res&espv=2&biw=1442&bih=1011&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwipkMDJw__KAhUY5GMKHUhZDQQQsAQIHQ


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> numbered the main questions in your quote ~
> 
> 1 depends on the qdc, but yes it can go right on the fillport, you can also use angled fittings where needed ( 90deg /45deg fittings )
> 2 personal pref, i prefer to leave it IF i can if you are terribly scared they also make ball valves i have never had one leak , i have had them fail but only when disconnecting, and it usually isnt that bad/
> 3you def. can i would prefer to use this if i have to ( i have 2 and love them to quickly top off my system ( top off not fill )
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fill-port/4576/spritzflasche-500ml-pe-ld ( i have the aquacomputer one that comes with the fillport )
> 4 this one is easy, pull the 24 pin, 8 pin and any pcie connectors jump the 24 pin ( ps on to ground ( the only green wire to black wire, if your psu wires are all black google a 24 pin pinout and you can find it ) , when you power on your system fans and pumps and hdds will come on, quick fix and no damage to pc
> 5 i can but i will be using one site for links, in china and no access to google
> 
> 1 qdc set ( male and female ) i prefer swiftech due to flexibility with ends
> 2 Tubing ( basic soft/w.e size, i prefer 3/4-1/2 )
> 3 fittings compression/barb/clamps as needed
> 4 basic res ( cheap one @! , however i like a large one personally )
> 5 misc fittings to adapt to your needs (90s ect)
> 6 a power supply jumper if needed
> 
> hope this helps


This helps me a lot. But, do have a pic or is there a video somewhere that shows this kind of setup? Before I attempt something like this I would like to know what it is supposed to look like....lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> numbered the main questions in your quote ~
> 
> 1 depends on the qdc, but yes it can go right on the fillport, you can also use angled fittings where needed ( 90deg /45deg fittings )
> 2 personal pref, i prefer to leave it IF i can if you are terribly scared they also make ball valves i have never had one leak , i have had them fail but only when disconnecting, and it usually isnt that bad/
> 3you def. can i would prefer to use this if i have to ( i have 2 and love them to quickly top off my system ( top off not fill )
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fill-port/4576/spritzflasche-500ml-pe-ld ( i have the aquacomputer one that comes with the fillport )
> 4 this one is easy, pull the 24 pin, 8 pin and any pcie connectors jump the 24 pin ( ps on to ground ( the only green wire to black wire, if your psu wires are all black google a 24 pin pinout and you can find it ) , when you power on your system fans and pumps and hdds will come on, quick fix and no damage to pc
> 5 i can but i will be using one site for links, in china and no access to google
> 
> 1 qdc set ( male and female ) i prefer swiftech due to flexibility with ends
> 2 Tubing ( basic soft/w.e size, i prefer 3/4-1/2 )
> 3 fittings compression/barb/clamps as needed
> 4 basic res ( cheap one @! , however i like a large one personally )
> 5 misc fittings to adapt to your needs (90s ect)
> 6 a power supply jumper if needed
> 
> hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> Thnx, that does help somewhat. But the devil is in the details, all these places where you just 'misc this or that as needed' are the most mysterious parts.
> 
> This is too funny to not mention, i did a google image search for "basic tube res", this is what came up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=basic+tube+res&espv=2&biw=1442&bih=1011&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwipkMDJw__KAhUY5GMKHUhZDQQQsAQIHQ
Click to expand...

i cant atm i am in china and cant use google ( they block google )

fittings- just need compression or barb/clamp fittings one for the qdc and one for the botom of the res

misc fittings - random fittings YOU need for your situation, i cant help here if you dont like your fill port coming out of the side, you need to use a 45 or 90 or 2 or 3 to get it to where you want it, this is personal and will vary case by case, set up by set up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> numbered the main questions in your quote ~
> 
> 1 depends on the qdc, but yes it can go right on the fillport, you can also use angled fittings where needed ( 90deg /45deg fittings )
> 2 personal pref, i prefer to leave it IF i can if you are terribly scared they also make ball valves i have never had one leak , i have had them fail but only when disconnecting, and it usually isnt that bad/
> 3you def. can i would prefer to use this if i have to ( i have 2 and love them to quickly top off my system ( top off not fill )
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fill-port/4576/spritzflasche-500ml-pe-ld ( i have the aquacomputer one that comes with the fillport )
> 4 this one is easy, pull the 24 pin, 8 pin and any pcie connectors jump the 24 pin ( ps on to ground ( the only green wire to black wire, if your psu wires are all black google a 24 pin pinout and you can find it ) , when you power on your system fans and pumps and hdds will come on, quick fix and no damage to pc
> 5 i can but i will be using one site for links, in china and no access to google
> 
> 1 qdc set ( male and female ) i prefer swiftech due to flexibility with ends
> 2 Tubing ( basic soft/w.e size, i prefer 3/4-1/2 )
> 3 fittings compression/barb/clamps as needed
> 4 basic res ( cheap one @! , however i like a large one personally )
> 5 misc fittings to adapt to your needs (90s ect)
> 6 a power supply jumper if needed
> 
> hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> This helps me a lot. But, do have a pic or is there a video somewhere that shows this kind of setup? Before I attempt something like this I would like to know what it is supposed to look like....lol.
Click to expand...

as stated above i am in china and dont have access to that sorry going home today though, so maybe i can tomorrow


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant atm i am in china and cant use google ( they block google )
> 
> fittings- just need compression or barb/clamp fittings one for the qdc and one for the botom of the res
> 
> misc fittings - random fittings YOU need for your situation, i cant help here if you dont like your fill port coming out of the side, you need to use a 45 or 90 or 2 or 3 to get it to where you want it, this is personal and will vary case by case, set up by set up
> as stated above i am in china and dont have access to that sorry going home today though, so maybe i can tomorrow


NP.... I can wait


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant atm i am in china and cant use google ( they block google )
> 
> fittings- just need compression or barb/clamp fittings one for the qdc and one for the botom of the res
> 
> misc fittings - random fittings YOU need for your situation, i cant help here if you dont like your fill port coming out of the side, you need to use a 45 or 90 or 2 or 3 to get it to where you want it, this is personal and will vary case by case, set up by set up
> as stated above i am in china and dont have access to that sorry going home today though, so maybe i can tomorrow


I get it now. I've never really looked closely at barb/clamp vs compression fittings or different id/od tubing and various fittings and connectors. You watch charlie brown, the adult's talking (wa waah wa waa wahh waahh)? That's been my perception of discussion about nitty-gritty custom loop componentry.

Anyway, I spent some time looking at these things on swiftech's site and at performancepcs so i'm less uninformed than before. I'm a barb and clamp kinda guy. Maybe i could get away with just a qdc'able filltube. Connect the tube and stuff a funnel in the top of it for filling, disconnect when done. Is there really a need for a res on the end of the tube?


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> My friend just received his H240 X2 Prestige (he doesn't post here). He sent me a pic, and his tubing and radiator had water droplets all over them when he opened the packaging. Obviously, there's a leak somewhere and I'm not there to help him troubleshoot it. I was just wondering if anyone here had heard of these shipping with a leak?
> 
> Here is one of the images he provided me, with water droplets visible on the radiator.


I received my Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige from Newegg today and upon opening the box, the plastic around the cooler was wet so there's clearly a leak somewhere. I haven't bothered to troubleshoot to find the source of the leak, already put in a RMA request for a refund since Newegg doesn't seem to have any in stock right now for a replacement.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> How low is your level?
> Algae should not be present if it is still sealed from factory , think it's 3 years.
> No sign of coolant residue around the suspected crack ?
> Post some pictures of it .


Here's a pic. The crack is in the lower-right corner of the window. The flash on the camera really reflects off it. You can't see it as glaringly in normal lighting.



The greenish tinge is starting to look like the greenish tinge in this pic from another unit, also with cracks, i found on the swiftech forum.


----------



## sav4

Definitely looks like a crack.
If you have to replace the window anyway might as well flush it or are you going to rma it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Here's a pic. The crack is in the lower-right corner of the window. The flash on the camera really reflects off it. You can't see it as glaringly in normal lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> The greenish tinge is starting to look like the greenish tinge in this pic from another unit, also with cracks, i found on the swiftech forum.


the window design wasn't the best small holes near the edges of the acrylic...it did sit nice but vibrations...over tightening or under tightening...expansion and contraction...all can wear on the edges of the holes....also I'm thinking a bunch of o rings in a lot if products are being sourced from the same place...as eks offerings had some sealing issues and now the x2s are as well...I find that to be an odd coincidence...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Definitely looks like a crack.
> If you have to replace the window anyway might as well flush it or are you going to rma it?


I'm gonna ask swiftech support what i can do about it? I pm'd Dango but haven't heard back yet. I'll email their [email protected] addr too.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm gonna ask swiftech support what i can do about it? I pm'd Dango but haven't heard back yet. I'll email their [email protected] addr too.


I emailed Ren Sheng at swiftech.. They are going to send me a new window too. They wanted me to send the unit back and that takes three week in all to get back..This would of been the 3rd time for rma.. The first two were pump problems..


----------



## ghostrider85

I am still having issues with my gpu waterblocks even though i put electrical tapes on the back plate, i was going to put some washers but i ripped the pcie slot off the motherboard, damn swiftech, i already destroyed two motherboards because of your crappy back plates.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I am still having issues with my gpu waterblocks even though i put electrical tapes on the back plate, i was going to put some washers *but i ripped the pcie slot off the motherboard*, damn swiftech, i already destroyed two motherboards because of your crappy back plates.


How the heck are you doing this


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I am still having issues with my gpu waterblocks even though i put electrical tapes on the back plate, i was going to put some washers but i ripped the pcie slot off the motherboard, damn swiftech, i already destroyed two motherboards because of your crappy back plates.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> How the heck are you doing this


I don't want to sound mean....but I have used a number of Swiftechs blocks for the last couple of nVidia gens. I am using an NV-LE in my own rig. I have not had a single issue, nor have I seen any reports of issues like the one you are having. I have certainly not sen *any* issue that would cause one to rip a PCIe slot off the MB. From looking at this situation from the surface, it would seem that you are being a bit of a "bull in a china shop" with your parts and install. Take your time, use care and always double check everything you do.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't want to sound mean....but I have used a number of Swiftechs blocks for the last couple of nVidia gens. I am using an NV-LE in my own rig. I have not had a single issue, nor have I seen any reports of issues like the one you are having. I have certainly not sen *any* issue that would cause one to rip a PCIe slot off the MB. From looking at this situation from the surface, it would seem that you are being a bit of a "bull in a china shop" with your parts and install. Take your time, use care and always double check everything you do.


You not having an issue doesn't mean anything, i installed my blocks the way it should be but the components of the pcb are touching the backplate, that is swiftech's fault not mine. Yeah i yanked the gpus out of frustration and pulled the pcie slot, that is definitely my fault, but you know how long i've been troubleshooting this rig and how many times i've assembled, disassembled, drained, refilled, and everything? My rig should have done and running weeks ago if not for the crappy backplates.

Sorry for being a whiny brat but i'm just so frustrated right now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> You not having an issue doesn't mean anything, i installed my blocks the way it should be but the components of the pcb are touching the backplate, that is swiftech's fault not mine. Yeah i yanked the gpus out of frustration and pulled the pcie slot, that is definitely my fault, but you know how long i've been troubleshooting this rig and how many times i've assembled, disassembled, drained, refilled, and everything? My rig should have done and running weeks ago if not for the crappy backplates.
> 
> Sorry for being a whiny brat but i'm just so frustrated right now.


frustration has cost me a lot of money over the years learning patience had literally saved me thousands of dollars......going Brody on the parts won't help anything it just adds to the frustration...now if you do get the backplate figured out you have damaged motherboard and possibly damaged traces or pcb on the card too...that anger on a 150 dollar block could cost you 1k...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I emailed Ren Sheng at swiftech.. They are going to send me a new window too. They wanted me to send the unit back and that takes three week in all to get back..This would of been the 3rd time for rma.. The first two were pump problems..


Yup, I'm trading emails with him about that too. I have some questions about the refill coolant color.


----------



## Nephurus

Anyone have any pics of there
Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige and expanded it further? need ideas here.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> You not having an issue doesn't mean anything, i installed my blocks the way it should be but the components of the pcb are touching the backplate, that is swiftech's fault not mine. Yeah i yanked the gpus out of frustration and pulled the pcie slot, that is definitely my fault, but you know how long i've been troubleshooting this rig and how many times i've assembled, disassembled, drained, refilled, and everything? My rig should have done and running weeks ago if not for the crappy backplates.
> 
> Sorry for being a whiny brat but i'm just so frustrated right now.


You place all the blame on Swiftech. But honestly, all the 'blame' is squarely on you. Is it not at least equally as possible your GPU company installed components on their PCB that stick out farther than others causign them to touch the backplate? Why is it not your fault for not checking this clearance when you were installing?

I can understand your frustration. Years of experience using aftermarket products on everything from performance cars and off-road vehicles to computers has taught me to always double check everything involved and hope that all possible problems can be seen and resolved. Even then there are still things that can be wrong. Swiftech did the best they could trying to make a product to fit onto products made by other companies. I'm sure it fits many, but obviously not all of these 'other companies' have the same components and clearances .. including yours.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Just got my 220x prestige in last night, arrived from performance pcs in great condition, no leaks. What I did notice, and i'll take a pic tonight, was one of the tubes has extreme yellowing already happening on the tube, almost looks like it was an end piece of the tuding durning manufacturing that wasn't up to snuff.


----------



## Bruticis

I'm embarrassed to say I had a hell of a time mounting my water block (H320 X2 Prestige) to my CPU/mobo (LGA1150 socket). The mounting system is quite simple but I had to keep adjusting the 4 screws in the slots as they kept wiggling out of place, which moved the block all over the face of the CPU and probably created a lot of air gaps in the thermal paste. Any tips on getting it to line up better or keeping the screws in place in the slots while I align them with the mounts?


----------



## ssgtnubb

What I did was stack a stack of books just high enough for my system to weight down the back of my motherboard and the backplate to force it against the board while I screwed it down.


----------



## Bruticis

I didn't really have an issue with the bracket attached to the motherboard moving, I used the tape and it seemed to work fine. My problem was the screws on the waterblock itself sliding around in the adjustable slots moving out of place which in turn caused me to have to shift the block around on top of the cpu.
These guys were my problem:


----------



## jincuteguy

Yea I had the same problem as you too installing my H240-X to the motherboard.

This is for socket 2011.

I wished they would use the mounting system from the EK Supremacy EVO cpu block, where you have 4 long screws installed into the board, then put the block on, then use 4 big Nuts to tighten them.

Doing it this way, when you put the block down onto the 4 long screws, it doesnt move anywhere. Or you can just use 1 hand to hold it down, and use the other hand to screw down the 4 nuts.

EK Predator was using the same mounting system too, then they changed it to their Supremacy EVO mounting system with the Revision 1.1


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant atm i am in china and cant use google ( they block google )
> 
> fittings- just need compression or barb/clamp fittings one for the qdc and one for the botom of the res
> 
> misc fittings - random fittings YOU need for your situation, i cant help here if you dont like your fill port coming out of the side, you need to use a 45 or 90 or 2 or 3 to get it to where you want it, this is personal and will vary case by case, set up by set up
> as stated above i am in china and dont have access to that sorry going home today though, so maybe i can tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> I get it now. I've never really looked closely at barb/clamp vs compression fittings or different id/od tubing and various fittings and connectors. You watch charlie brown, the adult's talking (wa waah wa waa wahh waahh)? That's been my perception of discussion about nitty-gritty custom loop componentry.
> 
> Anyway, I spent some time looking at these things on swiftech's site and at performancepcs so i'm less uninformed than before. I'm a barb and clamp kinda guy. Maybe i could get away with just a qdc'able filltube. Connect the tube and stuff a funnel in the top of it for filling, disconnect when done. Is there really a need for a res on the end of the tube?
Click to expand...

w.e. works for you, all i can say i i prefer the res, because it gives me extra water that the pump can fill with vs the minor amount in a funnel, but there is no wrong way here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant atm i am in china and cant use google ( they block google )
> 
> fittings- just need compression or barb/clamp fittings one for the qdc and one for the botom of the res
> 
> misc fittings - random fittings YOU need for your situation, i cant help here if you dont like your fill port coming out of the side, you need to use a 45 or 90 or 2 or 3 to get it to where you want it, this is personal and will vary case by case, set up by set up
> as stated above i am in china and dont have access to that sorry going home today though, so maybe i can tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> NP.... I can wait
Click to expand...

i am looking but i am kinda busy bear with me .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruticis*
> 
> I'm embarrassed to say I had a hell of a time mounting my water block (H320 X2 Prestige) to my CPU/mobo (LGA1150 socket). The mounting system is quite simple but I had to keep adjusting the 4 screws in the slots as they kept wiggling out of place, which moved the block all over the face of the CPU and probably created a lot of air gaps in the thermal paste. Any tips on getting it to line up better or keeping the screws in place in the slots while I align them with the mounts?


i understand, but side to side is NEVER an issue it is when it pulls from the cpu .

that is what causes air bubbles !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruticis*
> 
> I didn't really have an issue with the bracket attached to the motherboard moving, I used the tape and it seemed to work fine. My problem was the screws on the waterblock itself sliding around in the adjustable slots moving out of place which in turn caused me to have to shift the block around on top of the cpu.
> These guys were my problem:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I agree with @Mega Man. The block sliding side to side really isn't an issue. The block being pulled off and then remounted without smoothing out the paste that can cause air bubbles.


----------



## jincuteguy

So im receiving the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste today, should I reinstalled my H240-X and try out the paste?








I'm scared to take out the H240-X cause it's really hard to install with the mounting system (slide to slide







)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So im receiving the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste today, should I reinstalled my H240-X and try out the paste?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm scared to take out the H240-X cause it's really hard to install with the mounting system (slide to slide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


If you are scared, and are satisfied with the temps as they are now then don't do it. When you are comfortable and want to do a regular maintenance, swapping it out with this will give you a decent drop in core temps. Just be sure to spread it out using the applicator before installing the block back on.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you are scared, and are satisfied with the temps as they are now then don't do it. When you are comfortable and want to do a regular maintenance, swapping it out with this will give you a decent drop in core temps. Just be sure to spread it out using the applicator before installing the block back on.


Isn't it better with just a dot of the paste in the center? I thought spreading out the paste is bad since as soon as you put the block on, it will create air gap? Or am i missing something here? thx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you are scared, and are satisfied with the temps as they are now then don't do it. When you are comfortable and want to do a regular maintenance, swapping it out with this will give you a decent drop in core temps. Just be sure to spread it out using the applicator before installing the block back on.


Have you tested the Kryonaut? I am curious about it, but have a lot of reservations. Most tests show it as _maybe_ a slight bit better than GC Extreme/NT-H1/MX-4/etc, and some show it as markedly better. Until I hear it from someone I know is doing reputable evaluations, such as yourself, I am very skeptical of it being more than simply a new buzz word.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Isn't it better with just a dot of the paste in the center? I thought spreading out the paste is bad since as soon as you put the block on, it will create air gap? Or am i missing something here? thx


Kryonaut has very specific application instructions.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tested the Kryonaut? I am curious about it, but have a lot of reservations. Most tests show it as _maybe_ a slight bit better than GC Extreme/NT-H1/MX-4/etc, and some show it as markedly better. Until I hear it from someone I know is doing reputable evaluations, such as yourself, I am very skeptical of it being more than simply a new buzz word.
> Kryonaut has very specific application instructions.


Yea well I will let you know if it's any better once I get it installed later.


----------



## Nick-F

just thought I would share a picture of my first attempt at customising my rig , first pic is before , next are what I have managed so

WP_20160214_20_00_14_Pro.jpg 1553k .jpg file


WP_20160219_19_41_18_Pro.jpg 1513k .jpg file


WP_20160219_19_47_22_Rich.jpg 840k .jpg file
 far


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Isn't it better with just a dot of the paste in the center? I thought spreading out the paste is bad since as soon as you put the block on, it will create air gap? Or am i missing something here? thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea well I will let you know if it's any better once I get it installed later.


I was posing that question to VSG. I was informing _you_ that you need to follow the Kryonaut application instructions, as they are very specific.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was posing that question to VSG. I was informing _you_ that you need to follow the Kryonaut application instructions, as they are very specific.


Well in the Kryonaut instruction it said there are 2 methods to apply the paste:

A) use the spreader to spread out the paste
B) Either use the Dot or X method and let the cooler spread the paste

That's what it said in the piece of paper instruction that comes with the paste.

And I just installed the paste btw using the Spread method with the included Spreader.
My system is running righ tnow that's why I can post here









Idle temps so far seem to be 5C degree lower. will check the Stress test load temp later.

Btw, the paste I was using before this was the Shin Etsu X something i forgot, the one that a lot of ppl were raving about it back then.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tested the Kryonaut? I am curious about it, but have a lot of reservations. Most tests show it as _maybe_ a slight bit better than GC Extreme/NT-H1/MX-4/etc, and some show it as markedly better. Until I hear it from someone I know is doing reputable evaluations, such as yourself, I am very skeptical of it being more than simply a new buzz word.
> Kryonaut has very specific application instructions.


I have, yeah. Need to write it up now but it's within error margins of GC Extreme. Nothing like the 4-5 ºC some people claimed. The only way I can see some people getting multiple ºC of improvement over GC Extreme is if their GC Extreme did not spread out well, which isn't the easiest thing if one has not warmed up the TIM or has applied appropriate pressure. The Kryonaut has the advantage of the applicator that helps out. Retail GC Extreme comes with a plastic spreader also, but not the OEM branded tubes.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have, yeah. Need to write it up now but it's within error margins of GC Extreme. Nothing like the 4-5 ºC some people claimed. The only way I can see some people getting multiple ºC of improvement over GC Extreme is if their GC Extreme did not spread out well, which isn't the easiest thing if one has not warmed up the TIM or has applied appropriate pressure. The Kryonaut has the advantage of the applicator that helps out. Retail GC Extreme comes with a plastic spreader also, but not the OEM branded tubes.


That's what I figured - no reason for me to buy it. I have a ton of GC and NT-H1 on hand.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That's what I figured - no reason for me to buy it. I have a ton of GC and NT-H1 on hand.


No idea about NT-H1 personally but yeah- no reason to buy it if you have GC


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> just thought I would share a picture of my first attempt at customising my rig , first pic is before , next are what I have managed so
> 
> WP_20160214_20_00_14_Pro.jpg 1553k .jpg file
> 
> 
> WP_20160219_19_41_18_Pro.jpg 1513k .jpg file
> 
> 
> WP_20160219_19_47_22_Rich.jpg 840k .jpg file
> far


nice and congrats !! just a fyi you are using the paperclip ! use the little picture icon the one to the right of that icon !


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> just thought I would share a picture of my first attempt at customising my rig , first pic is before , next are what I have managed so
> 
> WP_20160214_20_00_14_Pro.jpg 1553k .jpg file
> 
> 
> WP_20160219_19_41_18_Pro.jpg 1513k .jpg file
> 
> 
> WP_20160219_19_47_22_Rich.jpg 840k .jpg file
> far


Where did you get that GPU BAckplate in blue color and acrylic?


----------



## Nick-F

Bought a standard backplate from evga and painted !


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice and congrats !! just a fyi you are using the paperclip ! use the little picture icon the one to the right of that icon !


Thanks for that ?


----------



## jincuteguy

So right now Im using H240-X (not X2) for about a year now. I want to go custom and was looking at the XSPC Raystorm Pro D5 Photon kit, $300 on PerformancePCs.
Do you guys think it will give me better performance over the H240-X? Or maybe just a few degree cooler and not worth the price? thx


----------



## Mega Man

If all is the same not Better temps if the rad is a 360 or w.e you may get slightly better temps

It is a good kit but Tbh I would recommend just expanding what you have


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If all is the same not Better temps if the rad is a 360 or w.e you may get slightly better temps
> 
> It is a good kit but Tbh I would recommend just expanding what you have


this...the swiftech block is better...the pump can easily handle more rad space...so the only real limitation is space in the case...for the price of that kit (which has two items you have comparable or better of with the h240x (pump cpu block) you could get a really nice supplemental rad and all the fittings/fans and possibly a res too and still have a little leftover...and more rad space is never a bad thing...


----------



## VSG

The pump and block are better in that kit actually, but not enough to justify buying it when he has the H240-X already. I would also recommend just expanding, and maybe adding in a pump if need be.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If all is the same not Better temps if the rad is a 360 or w.e you may get slightly better temps
> 
> It is a good kit but Tbh I would recommend just expanding what you have


What if I get 2 x 360mm Rad? or 480m and 360m rad?

The reason why I dont like expanding the Swiftech kit is because of how the Reservoir and pump are attached to the Radiator and it's really hard to Fill the system. It's not hard to fill if it's just the H240-X by itself, but once I expand it to include another Rad + Gpu, it's almost impossible to Fill the loop unless I take it out of the case and fill the whole loop at 1 whole piece, then put that whole loop back in the case?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What if I get 2 x 360mm Rad? or 480m and 360m rad?
> 
> The reason why I dont like expanding the Swiftech kit is because of how the Reservoir and pump are attached to the Radiator and it's really hard to Fill the system. It's not hard to fill if it's just the H240-X by itself, but once I expand it to include another Rad + Gpu, it's almost impossible to Fill the loop unless I take it out of the case and fill the whole loop at 1 whole piece, then put that whole loop back in the case?


You can always attach a fill line to your fill port on the Swiftech. That'll make filling easier. Just cap off the line with something like this so you can leave it attached to the reservoir.

https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-barbed-stop-plug-fillport-fitting-3-8-id-black-tf3j-2.html


----------



## Scrimstar

one can still mount 240x2/320x2 with this mobo backplate, right?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> You can always attach a fill line to your fill port on the Swiftech. That'll make filling easier. Just cap off the line with something like this so you can leave it attached to the reservoir.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-barbed-stop-plug-fillport-fitting-3-8-id-black-tf3j-2.html


heck yea, i want something like that on about a 5" tube


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> You can always attach a fill line to your fill port on the Swiftech. That'll make filling easier. Just cap off the line with something like this so you can leave it attached to the reservoir.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-barbed-stop-plug-fillport-fitting-3-8-id-black-tf3j-2.html


Does anyone have any images of this in a system and maybe also one of a drain port?


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Where did you get that GPU BAckplate in blue color and acrylic?


Made some small mods , removed HDD labels to create a cleaner look , and put anti kink coils on GPU cooler tubing

WP_20160220_11_54_30_Pro.jpg 1562k .jpg file


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The pump and block are better in that kit actually, but not enough to justify buying it when he has the H240-X already. I would also recommend just expanding, and maybe adding in a pump if need be.


You say tomato.....

I actually got slightly better temps with the Apogee XL than I did with the Raystorm in my tests. Mind you, we are talking about 1C across the average of three tests..... I would say they are essentially equivalent.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You say tomato.....
> 
> I actually got slightly better temps with the Apogee XL than I did with the Raystorm in my tests. Mind you, we are talking about 1C across the average of three tests..... I would say they are essentially equivalent.


I thought he was talking about the new Raystorm Pro block in that kit, and this block has big improvements every which way over the older Raystorm.

Although that did get me curious since I wasn't aware that the Raystorm Pro was included in kits already. Checked online and couldn't find it in any kit. I guess the kit he was looking at is something else then since there isn't a "XSPC Raystorm Pro D5 Photon kit", and likely has either the acetal Raystorm or the copper top Raystorm (again different from the Raystorm Pro).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I thought he was talking about the new Raystorm Pro block in that kit, and this block has big improvements every which way over the older Raystorm.
> 
> Although that did get me curious since I wasn't aware that the Raystorm Pro was included in kits already. Checked online and couldn't find it in any kit. I guess the kit he was looking at is something else then since there isn't a "XSPC Raystorm Pro D5 Photon kit", and likely has either the acetal Raystorm or the copper top Raystorm (again different from the Raystorm Pro).


It is my understanding that the Pro block only comes with the twin D5 kit at present, and that is how the XSPC site shows it. No Photon/Pro kit listed at PPC or on XSPC site.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It is my understanding that the Pro block only comes with the twin D5 kit at present, and that is how the XSPC site shows it. No Photon/Pro kit listed at PPC or on XSPC site.


Yup, so I think he made a mistake and so did I assuming it was named right.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, so I think he made a mistake and so did I assuming it was named right.


They do have the Raystorm Pro. If you go to Performance PCs and search for XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon RX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit
http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-d5-photon-rx360-v3-watercooling-kit.html

They will have the options for you to choose the Raystorm Pro cpu block (only $17 more over the Original Raystorm), and along other options like LED color etc...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> They do have the Raystorm Pro. If you go to Performance PCs and search for XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon RX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-xspc-raystorm-d5-photon-rx360-v3-watercooling-kit.html
> 
> They will have the options for you to choose the Raystorm Pro cpu block (only $17 more over the Original Raystorm), and along other options like LED color etc...


Ah I see that. It's likely a PPCs custom option then, but yeah the original comments hold true still. You can add in a cylinder res and pump if expanding the H240-X to make the process easier. Unless you have a buyer for it already, it would make more financial sense to expand this in my opinion. Totally your call in the end!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah I see that. It's likely a PPCs custom option then, but yeah the original comments hold true still. You can add in a cylinder res and pump if expanding the H240-X to make the process easier. Unless you have a buyer for it already, it would make more financial sense to expand this in my opinion. Totally your call in the end!


Do ppl actually buy these Swiftech H240-X used? I'm kinda surprised.

Also, adding a pump + cylinder res would prob cost me around $160 ($80 D5 + $80 pump top and Res) and adding a 360 Rad would add another $99-120 (either HardwareLabs SR2 360 or AquaComputer Airplex Radical 2 360m)

So total will be around $280 ($300 with taxes + shipping). Might as well just get another cpu block like EK Supremacy EVO and get rid of the H240-X









And I haven't add in the cost of GT fans + fittings


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do ppl actually buy these Swiftech H240-X used? I'm kinda surprised.
> 
> Also, adding a pump + cylinder res would prob cost me around $160 ($80 D5 + $80 pump top and Res) and adding a 360 Rad would add another $99-120 (either HardwareLabs SR2 360 or AquaComputer Airplex Radical 2 360m)
> 
> So total will be around $280 ($300 with taxes + shipping). Might as well just get another cpu block like EK Supremacy EVO and get rid of the H240-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I haven't add in the cost of GT fans + fittings


I went through the same argument when I was about to buy the Swiftech. I knew I was going to expand it down the line and likely spend nearly as much, so I said screw it and just build a custom loop, which I finished last week.


----------



## ronaldoz

Yesterday I ordered a H240X2 in EU, but it's out of stock over there. This is also on the official Swiftech website. Do you guys know more about this and how long it should take before they could deliver? And what is your experience with the H240X2? I'l use it for my i7 4790K in a H440 case. I've read the topic, but don't see much about the new X2 series.


----------



## michael-ocn

Hi,

I have questions about flushing and refilling a loop with some algae starting to grow in it. What's the best way to handle that? I think I want to get the algae completely out before refilling.

- drain it
- flush it with distilled water + something to kill and dissolve algae
- fill it with new clean coolant

Is that about right? What concoction of stuff should i flush it out with? Also should I do anything special with the cpu block to clean it out?

Thnx

Edit: As a side note. Wouldn't a loop void of light also be void of algae? We have case windows and res windows and often lights in both the case and res. I would rather have neither window. I'd much rather have neither window than the algae i do have. You might be asking why i have windows if i don't want them. Good luck purchasing a nice case and cooler without windows.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have questions about flushing and refilling a loop with some algae starting to grow in it. What's the best way to handle that? I think I want to get the algae completely out before refilling.
> 
> - drain it
> - flush it with distilled water + something to kill and dissolve algae
> - fill it with new clean coolant
> 
> Is that about right? What concoction of stuff should i flush it out with? Also should I do anything special with the cpu block to clean it out?
> 
> Thnx
> 
> Edit: As a side note. Wouldn't a loop void of light also be void of algae? We have case windows and res windows and often lights in both the case and res. I would rather have neither window. I'd much rather have neither window than the algae i do have. You might be asking why i have windows if i don't want them. Good luck purchasing a nice case and cooler without windows.


That sums it up. That "something" is typically Mayhems Blitz. You will probably want to give the interior of your blocks a cleaning with a soft toothbrush, also.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That sums it up. That "something" is typically Mayhems Blitz. You will probably want to give the interior of your blocks a cleaning with a soft toothbrush, also.


the primochill stuff works ok too...I always clean my blocks with an old toothbrush and wooden toothpick if anything is lodged good...be sure to remove all o rings before cleaning don't be like me and lose one down the drain.....


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> some algae starting to grow in it


We're just wondering is your H240X the early patch kit, that had shiny black tubes with it?

If the tubes are shiny black, then the "algae" could also be plasticizer from the tubes.


----------



## ghostrider85

First custom loop done!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> First custom loop done!


What is that Rear fan that u got there?


----------



## ghostrider85

That is swiftech helix.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That sums it up. That "something" is typically Mayhems Blitz. You will probably want to give the interior of your blocks a cleaning with a soft toothbrush, also.


Mayhems Blitz Part 1 looks breaking bad kind of scary, Part 2 looks more like my cup of tea








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the primochill stuff works ok too...I always clean my blocks with an old toothbrush and wooden toothpick if anything is lodged good...be sure to remove all o rings before cleaning don't be like me and lose one down the drain.....


Primochill SysPrep, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We're just wondering is your H240X the early patch kit, that had shiny black tubes with it?
> 
> If the tubes are shiny black, then the "algae" could also be plasticizer from the tubes.


The tubes are flat black, pics in the spoiler of tubes and greenishness.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I think after i flush, clean, and refill the loop I'll unplug the lights in the reservoir and cover that window with some single ply black cardboard to keep light out and prevent algae growth. I like the form follows function design principal and it makes no sense to me to light it up. Dango offered to send some green HydrxPM concentrate along with the new res window but I balked at that due to the green color. Now i'm thinking differently. I'd like whatever is most effective in terms of preventing corrosion and organic growth. To he** with cosmetics, maintance free function is what I'm looking for.

What kind of coolant/additive has the best properties like that and is the longest lasting? Chemicals don't bother me terribly, I'm not going to drink it. Is the orig HydrxPM good stuff given my criteria?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Part 1 looks breaking bad kind of scary, Part 2 looks more like my cup of tea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primochill SysPrep, right?
> The tubes are flat black, pics in the spoiler of tubes and greenishness.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think after i flush, clean, and refill the loop I'll unplug the lights in the reservoir and cover that window with some single ply black cardboard to keep light out and prevent algae growth. I like the form follows function design principal and it makes no sense to me to light it up. Dango offered to send some green HydrxPM concentrate along with the new res window but I balked at that due to the green color. Now i'm thinking differently. I'd like whatever is most effective in terms of preventing corrosion and organic growth. To he** with cosmetics, maintance free function is what I'm looking for.
> 
> What kind of coolant/additive has the best properties like that and is the longest lasting? Chemicals don't bother me terribly, I'm not going to drink it. Is the orig HydrxPM good stuff given my criteria?


Yeah sysprep....you can use distilled and a biocide if you wanted to


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Yeah sysprep....you can use distilled and a biocide if you wanted to


What about corrosion inhibitors like liquid utopia and hydrx-pm claim to contain? Unless there's compelling reason not to, I think i'll take Dango up on the hydrx-pm concentrate. It sounds like it has the properties i'm looking for. Everything being equal, I guess I'd rather have the blue hydrx-pm 2 simply for the blue color that better matches my system, but if one is better at inhibiting badness or is longer lasting the the other... that definitely trumps color.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> What about corrosion inhibitors like liquid utopia and hydrx-pm claim to contain? Unless there's compelling reason not to, I think i'll take Dango up on the hydrx-pm concentrate. It sounds like it has the properties i'm looking for. Everything being equal, I guess I'd rather have the blue hydrx-pm 2 simply for the blue color that better matches my system, but if one is better at inhibiting badness or is longer lasting the the other... that definitely trumps color.


most of them inhibit bacteria growth and prevent corrosion of mixing metals which you shouldn't have a problem with anyhow...I haven't read anything bad about the hydrx...


----------



## Mega Man

It is your loop, do what makes you feel best

However imo corrosion inhibitors are a waste of money and ( this is not an opinion but a fact ) will inhibit thermal transfer


----------



## Tim Drake

Hey, if someone could PM me the response as trying to find a response in here is near impossible for me.

I want to watercool 2011-3 and was wondering if the H320 needs the backplate or not for Socket 2011-3


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Hey, if someone could PM me the response as trying to find a response in here is near impossible for me.
> 
> I want to watercool 2011-3 and was wondering if the H320 needs the backplate or not for Socket 2011-3


nope, no backplate required


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> nope, no backplate required


Wow, that was fast. Thanks!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Hey, if someone could PM me the response as trying to find a response in here is near impossible for me.
> 
> I want to watercool 2011-3 and was wondering if the H320 needs the backplate or not for Socket 2011-3


This review states that you mount the 320 to the existing 2011 mounting holes. http://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/swiftech-h220-x2-cpu-liquid-cooler-review The included backplate is only for 115X.


----------



## VSG

I think he's talking about the original H320 though? Either way it should be fine.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> This review states that you mount the 320 to the existing 2011 mounting holes. http://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/swiftech-h220-x2-cpu-liquid-cooler-review The included backplate is only for 115X.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think he's talking about the original H320 though? Either way it should be fine.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## michael-ocn

If i use small magnets to hold a piece of cardboard in place over an h240x res window, will that mess anything up? i wouldn't expect it to, but mixed metal blah blah makes me wonder?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^


oops sorry about that, all the hype about the release of the H320 X2 I assumed (and you know what happens when you assume) you meant the X2.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need some help with getting all the "correct" parts for expanding my water cooling loop.
I have tubing that has 3/8 inner diameter and 5/8 outer diameter, would I use these angled compression fittings with a 1/2" inner diameter and a 5/8" outer diameter? Or would I need these similar fittings with 3/8" ID and 1/2"OD?

I already have a set of regular XPSC compression fittings that are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD and they seem to fit the tubing just fine but I have not been able to find an angled set of compression fittings with the same size specifications. I need angled compression fittings for a better fit in some areas.


----------



## ghostrider85

if you have 3/8 5/8 tube, then you have to use 3/8 5/8 fittings, and so on.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need some help with getting all the "correct" parts for expanding my water cooling loop.
> I have tubing that has 3/8 inner diameter and 5/8 outer diameter, would I use these angled compression fittings with a 1/2" inner diameter and a 5/8" outer diameter? Or would I need these similar fittings with 3/8" ID and 1/2"OD?
> 
> I already have a set of regular XPSC compression fittings that are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD and they seem to fit the tubing just fine but I have not been able to find an angled set of compression fittings with the same size specifications. I need angled compression fittings for a better fit in some areas.


Angled adapter fittings don't have compression or barbs on them. What they are just adapters. They will either have a male end and a female end, or two female ends. Here are some examples.

https://modmymods.com/fittings/angled-adapters-fittings.html


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need some help with getting all the "correct" parts for expanding my water cooling loop.
> I have tubing that has 3/8 inner diameter and 5/8 outer diameter, would I use these angled compression fittings with a 1/2" inner diameter and a 5/8" outer diameter? Or would I need these similar fittings with 3/8" ID and 1/2"OD?
> 
> I already have a set of regular XPSC compression fittings that are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD and they seem to fit the tubing just fine but I have not been able to find an angled set of compression fittings with the same size specifications. I need angled compression fittings for a better fit in some areas.


If you can't find angled fittings in the right size you can just get angled adapters and regular compression fittings. Like these. http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-45-swivel-elbow-lok-seal-adapter-black.html


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> nope, no backplate required


Even though the included screws are 2011, can they still be used for 2011-3? Or do I have to ask Swiftech for 2011-3 mounting


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Even though the included screws are 2011, can they still be used for 2011-3? Or do I have to ask Swiftech for 2011-3 mounting


it's the same thing.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Angled adapter fittings don't have compression or barbs on them. What they are just adapters. They will either have a male end and a female end, or two female ends. Here are some examples.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/fittings/angled-adapters-fittings.html


Check out the links I gave in my question. They are angled compression fittings.....


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> it's the same thing.


Just making sure since it's technically a different socket, thanks.


----------



## ghostrider85

pulled out a pcie slot off the mobo while trying to reinstall a gpu.




*before the incident:*



*after the incident:*


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> If you can't find angled fittings in the right size you can just get angled adapters and regular compression fittings. Like these. http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-45-swivel-elbow-lok-seal-adapter-black.html


'
I am trying to keep the cost somewhat low.

I am assuming that neither of the angled compression fittings I listed will work. The angled compression fittings are far and few between but can provide about a 50% cost saving.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Check out the links I gave in my question. They are angled compression fittings.....


Well snap. Haha.

You can save some money by buying Barrow fittings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191202657481

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191202622495

They have them in other colors, and they'll work with the XPSC fittings you already have. I just did an entire build using Barrow fittings. Not a single one leaked, and that's twelve compressions, five 45 degrees, and four 90s. I got them all from Aliexpress.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Well snap. Haha.
> 
> You can save some money by buying Barrow fittings.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191202657481
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191202622495
> 
> They have them in other colors, and they'll work with the XPSC fittings you already have. I just did an entire build using Barrow fittings. Not a single one leaked, and that's twelve compressions, five 45 degrees, and four 90s. I got them all from Aliexpress.


They look awesome and for a great price. Consequently I would have to purchase more of the APSC fittings I already have (a set of 4). When I add to my loop I will be changing out all the fittings currently in my system (stock H220-X).

I have looked and am not able to find any of the angled ones in other colors, in particular black (or black chrome).

Also, do these fittings swivel?


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> pulled out a pcie slot off the mobo while trying to reinstall a gpu.
> 
> .....
> 
> *before the incident:*
> 
> 
> 
> *after the incident:*


That is a X220X2 / X240X2 right? It is looking great! Are you using the original pump? Could this original pump handle 2 GPU's as well or did you add something to your loop?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am going to go with the XPSC fitting adapters. They come in the same exact color of their compression fittings and they are $1 cheaper than the Barrow fittings that @Jidonsu recommended. I need 8 total fittings for this loop but I am not sure how many 90 deg and 45 deg I will need in that total.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

so began the fill and leak test last night/ 5am this morning

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160223_072252.jpg.html
http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20160223_072036.jpg.html

no leaks so far. And does need a top up again, havent really noticed a massive hit with the flow of having two GPX visually but I know there is and you can hear a quieter flow of water.

Really wish the X2 was out when i got this , mind it was £100 so bargain. Massively let down by the res window with the blood red liquid, guessing it would of looked miles better with the new version.
Maybe if i do this build again I will use the new version if i can source it out. Also hard line tubing.
Pump is a soft hum running at full wack, not sure if this is due to having 2 GPX blocks killing the flow but was expecting some sound!


----------



## michael-ocn

I'll be cleaning and refilling my un-expanded h240x. About how much fluid does it take to fill it up? 1 liter, 0.5 liters, 333ml? I'm looking for a ballpark figure.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'll be cleaning and refilling my un-expanded h240x. About how much fluid does it take to fill it up? 1 liter, 0.5 liters, 333ml? I'm looking for a ballpark figure.


I vaguely remember using about 250-275ml last time I refilled mine but I could be remembering wrong.


----------



## t1337dude

Will the H140-X fit into the Corsair 250D? Is this probably the best cooling option I have available given the space? I won't use Corsair coolers anymore after my previous experience with their H80i.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Will the H140-X fit into the Corsair 250D? Is this probably the best cooling option I have available given the space? I won't use Corsair coolers anymore after my previous experience with their H80i.


I don't believe so, but it appears the H220-X (or X2) would fit on the side.

After you use one of these, you won't use Corsair anymore due to performance, noise and build quality differences.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't believe so, but it appears the H220-X (or X2) would fit on the side.
> 
> After you use one of these, you won't use Corsair anymore due to performance, noise and build quality differences.


I have an H240-X in my Corsair 450D now so I already considered the H220-X, but I've heard mixed opinions on how it fits... so I would need some assistance.

I heard it might not work with RAM with large heat spreaders or mobo's with large heatsinks. Do you think it could fit with this RAM and mobo? I'll also ask in the Corsair 250D club to see if they can help. I'm afraid to order everything and find out it doesn't fit and be stuck without a heatsink.

Anyone also know if the reservoir on the X2 is smaller than the regular model?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I have an H240-X in my Corsair 450D now so I already considered the H220-X, but I've heard mixed opinions on how it fits... so I would need some assistance.
> 
> I heard it might not work with RAM with large heat spreaders or mobo's with large heatsinks. Do you think it could fit with this RAM and mobo? I'll also ask in the Corsair 250D club to see if they can help. I'm afraid to order everything and find out it doesn't fit and be stuck without a heatsink.
> 
> Anyone also know if the reservoir on the X2 is smaller than the regular model?


Can't really help you there. I have never installed components in a 250D or evaluated fit at more than an eyeballing.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can't really help you there. I have never installed components in a 250D or evaluated fit at more than an eyeballing.


Thanks. I'm just going to go for it (the H220-X2). I noticed some people complaining about issues with their 250D had something to do with the pump orientation, and from what I've read in reviews the X2 doesn't have orientation issues that the previous models had.

Just to be safe I opted for some low-profile 16Gb DDR4 3000 memory because it was on a Shell-shocker Newegg deal. I hope it's not handicapped in any way by being low-profile. As for the motherboard...I'll just have to hope for the best. They all seem to be roughly similar in the clearance they offer so I really won't know until I try.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Thanks. I'm just going to go for it (the H220-X2). I noticed some people complaining about issues with their 250D had something to do with the pump orientation, and from what I've read in reviews the X2 doesn't have orientation issues that the previous models had.
> 
> Just to be safe I opted for some low-profile 16Gb DDR4 3000 memory because it was on a Shell-shocker Newegg deal. I hope it's not handicapped in any way by being low-profile. As for the motherboard...I'll just have to hope for the best. They all seem to be roughly similar in the clearance they offer so I really won't know until I try.


LOL....."low profile" in today's world simply means "functional, rather than ornamental, heat spreaders". The only handicap will be looks.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Will the H140-X fit into the Corsair 250D? Is this probably the best cooling option I have available given the space? I won't use Corsair coolers anymore after my previous experience with their H80i.


I found this pic, apparently the H220-X will fit.



Here is a link to the build on pcpartpicker https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KLYrxr


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I found this pic, apparently the H220-X will fit.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the build on pcpartpicker https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KLYrxr


Thanks - that looks like the money shot I was looking for. Quite impressed by what he has going on with that rig.

I wonder how the H220-X2 will compare to the H240-X in my desktop in terms of cooling performance. I'm blown away that I'm about to deck out my home theater PC with cooling that competes with my desktop


----------



## doyll

Interesting


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Interesting


Anything in particular you are referring to?


----------



## Velathawen

Wouldn't thermals be pretty terrible even with faster fan/pump speeds on such low surface area?


----------



## reptileexperts

question:

Do pastels from mayhem still void the warranty on the new model 220x2 etc. ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> question:
> 
> Do pastels from mayhem still void the warranty on the new model 220x2 etc. ?


I would imagine so. The X2 still uses the same pump, which is the cause of the issue.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would imagine so. The X2 still uses the same pump, which is the cause of the issue.


impeller design if I remember correctly it collects the particles and eventually the pump has trouble turning leading to death


----------



## reptileexperts

oh well, guess I'll finally throw the dyes in that were included.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would imagine so. The X2 still uses the same pump, which is the cause of the issue.


I thought the same thing initially but check out this interview with Gabe Rouchon. I think either he's unaware of Pastel causing issues with the pump or perhaps they've tested it again and something minor has changed internally to make it more compatible? Not sure I'd wanna be the guinea pig to find out the hard way if I had bought Pastel for myself...

http://www.computerpoweruser.com/article/19637/qa-with-gabriel-rouchon-updated-with-photos-from-ces

If you don't wanna read the whole thing the excerpt I'm referring to is this bit below:

Q: Can you talk about the coloring dyes you ship with the coolers? GR: We ship the kits with three coloring dye bottles: red, blue, and green. Of course, there is a multitude of other choices, like nanoparticle-based coolants such as Mayhem Pastels . . . and we intend to add optional dyes and coolants to our offerings.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I thought the same thing initially but check out this interview with Gabe Rouchon. I think either he's unaware of Pastel causing issues with the pump or perhaps they've tested it again and something minor has changed internally to make it more compatible? Not sure I'd wanna be the guinea pig to find out the hard way if I had bought Pastel for myself...
> 
> http://www.computerpoweruser.com/article/19637/qa-with-gabriel-rouchon-updated-with-photos-from-ces
> 
> If you don't wanna read the whole thing the excerpt I'm referring to is this bit below:
> 
> Q: Can you talk about the coloring dyes you ship with the coolers? GR: We ship the kits with three coloring dye bottles: red, blue, and green. Of course, there is a multitude of other choices, like nanoparticle-based coolants such as Mayhem Pastels . . . and we intend to add optional dyes and coolants to our offerings.


well ..would be nice to knew this for sure..also anyone could use it now BUT warranty would be void on the h220x,h240x, and h220


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> I thought the same thing initially but check out this interview with Gabe Rouchon. I think either he's unaware of Pastel causing issues with the pump or perhaps they've tested it again and something minor has changed internally to make it more compatible? Not sure I'd wanna be the guinea pig to find out the hard way if I had bought Pastel for myself...
> 
> http://www.computerpoweruser.com/article/19637/qa-with-gabriel-rouchon-updated-with-photos-from-ces
> 
> If you don't wanna read the whole thing the excerpt I'm referring to is this bit below:
> 
> Q: Can you talk about the coloring dyes you ship with the coolers? GR: We ship the kits with three coloring dye bottles: red, blue, and green. Of course, there is a multitude of other choices, like nanoparticle-based coolants such as Mayhem Pastels . . . and we intend to add optional dyes and coolants to our offerings.


That is an interesting quote.


----------



## ronaldoz

Sorry if this is not the right place to post this.. Also I am new with replacing a cooler / watercooling and my english is really bad, as you might have noticed.

Today I installed the H240X2 in my H440 case, and it seems to work fine. For me it's the first time doing such a thing and I'm not sure if it's all fine now. I just put maybe 0,3g -0,5g TM2 thermal compound on the CPU before connecting the CPU waterblock. I didn't spread it, it was just a 'blob'. Did I do it right or wrong there?

The tempratures are fine tho:


However, I don't see any light / glow in the pump and watertubes, and not sure if the pump is functional, how could I check this? The little bubbles in the water are not moving.. All connectors are in the splitter. The splitter is connected to SATA (splitter from PSU > both Sata's are connected to this) and cpufan1 (motherboard).


----------



## duckyboy

Your pump is fine with idle temperatures. what's your ambient temperature ? Try a stress test and see what temperatures you get. Something like asus real bench or prime 95


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Sorry if this is not the right place to post this.. Also I am new with replacing a cooler / watercooling and my english is really bad, as you might have noticed.
> 
> Today I installed the H240X2 in my H440 case, and it seems to work fine. For me it's the first time doing such a thing and I'm not sure if it's all fine now. I just put maybe 0,3g -0,5g TM2 thermal compound on the CPU before connecting the CPU waterblock. I didn't spread it, it was just a 'blob'. Did I do it right or wrong there?
> 
> The tempratures are fine tho:
> 
> 
> However, I don't see any light / glow in the pump and watertubes, and not sure if the pump is functional, how could I check this? The little bubbles in the water are not moving.. All connectors are in the splitter. The splitter is connected to SATA (splitter from PSU > both Sata's are connected to this) and cpufan1 (motherboard).


Also theres no led on the pump, your reservoir led is glowing and same with your water block


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Your pump is fine with idle temperatures. what's your ambient temperature ? Try a stress test and see what temperatures you get. Something like asus real bench or prime 95


At the moment I'm running Prime 26.6 and the tempratures are lower then with my Phanteks PH-TC12DX. Around 10-20C I could test longer off course.. but at least this is lower then with the aircooler.. I've not delid my 4790K. The ambient temperature is 19C. The case is open at the moment (no top, front and sides). The max tempratures remain as shown:


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have noticed that some compression fittings are in metric as opposed to SAE.

I was wonder if a compression fitting with 10mm ID and a 16mm OD will work with tubing that has a 3/8" ID and a 5/8" OD.

When I convert to decimal the numbers are pretty close and it seems like they will work fine. Bu,t II know how critical exact measurements can be when working with watercooling so I'd like another more informed opinion than mine on this please.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have noticed that some compression fittings are in metric as opposed to SAE.
> 
> I was wonder if a compression fitting with 10mm ID and a 16mm OD will work with tubing that has a 3/8" ID and a 5/8" OD.
> 
> When I convert to decimal the numbers are pretty close and it seems like they will work fine. Bu,t II know how critical exact measurements can be when working with watercooling so I'd like another more informed opinion than mine on this please.


Yes - 3/8" x 5/8" tubing is the same as 10/16mm tubing.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> At the moment I'm running Prime 26.6 and the tempratures are lower then with my Phanteks PH-TC12DX. Around 10-20C I could test longer off course.. but at least this is lower then with the aircooler.. I've not delid my 4790K. The ambient temperature is 19C. The case is open at the moment (no top, front and sides). The max tempratures remain as shown:


That doesn't look bad. What's your voltage?


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> That doesn't look bad. What's your voltage?


The Voltage is kinda low I guess, 1,19V.
This happen with Prime 27.7


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes - 3/8" x 5/8" tubing is the same as 10/16mm tubing.


Awesome! I also got the same answer back from performancepcs.com. I was surprised how quickly they answered.

I know someone answered this here before but I haven't been able to find it in the thread so far;

*What additive does everyone recommend for keeping the fluid free from algae and other build up?*
FYI, I will be using distilled water and no dye in this build. I will also probably be adding the antimicrobial silver strip I have.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> The Voltage is kinda low I guess, 1,19V.
> This happen with Prime 27.7


I'm thinking you may have used a little too much paste...if you take the cpu block off you can see the spread and be sure if your spread and amount...a small amount in the center is all you need...a 1g tube should be around six applications or more...also ensure you tighten the block in an x pattern in small increments (1/4 turn to 1/2 turn each) and do not lift it once its pressed down...you want your spread to just cover the cpu and be very thin as tim (thermal interface material(paste)) is only there to fill the small imperfections in the two mated surfaces...if you see the paste off the cpu edges or having thick spots you've likely used too much...


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm thinking you may have used a little too much paste...if you take the cpu block off you can see the spread and be sure if your spread and amount...a small amount in the center is all you need...a 1g tube should be around six applications or more...also ensure you tighten the block in an x pattern in small increments (1/4 turn to 1/2 turn each) and do not lift it once its pressed down...you want your spread to just cover the cpu and be very thin as tim (thermal interface material(paste)) is only there to fill the small imperfections in the two mated surfaces...if you see the paste off the cpu edges or having thick spots you've likely used too much...


Allright thanks! I found it kinda hard to tighten the block. I tried to first connect one side a bit, then another, and so on. Because of this, I moved the waterblock, it was not at one place (really hard to do that) Should I clean the CPU and waterblock and put new paste on it? I'm fine with that off course.









But first the pump 'issue' should be fixed I guess. There is no ledlight and much movement in the water..


----------



## Jidonsu

If you're at 1.19V under 100% load, that's probably a tad high, but it's totally safe.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> If you're at 1.19V under 100% load, that's probably a tad high, but it's totally safe.


You're sure 1.19v is high? i"m running my 5820K at 1.27


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You're sure 1.19v is high? i"m running my 5820K at 1.27


I meant that his temps are bit high with only 1.19V.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> The Voltage is kinda low I guess, 1,19V.
> This happen with Prime 27.7


I'd stay away from prime 28.7, its just death for haswell.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Awesome! I also got the same answer back from performancepcs.com. I was surprised how quickly they answered.
> 
> I know someone answered this here before but I haven't been able to find it in the thread so far;
> 
> *What additive does everyone recommend for keeping the fluid free from algae and other build up?*
> FYI, I will be using distilled water and no dye in this build. I will also probably be adding the antimicrobial silver strip I have.


I think you might get a lot of different answers to that







I'm getting some concentrate from swiftech for mine. If all you want is a biocide, i think PT Nuke seems to be the most recommended thing, there's two different formulations though, i don't know which one everyone likes so much.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> If you're at 1.19V under 100% load, that's probably a tad high, but it's totally safe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'd stay away from prime 28.7, its just death for haswell.


Thanks both. I connecthed pump to systemfan2 and I noticed it's at 3000 rpm. The 2 x 140mm fans can run at 1800 rpm max. I guess this is all fine. So the 2 'problems' I got is:

[*] A bit too much thermal compound (paste) > also: not delid cpu.
[*] No light in the watertube / pump.

I'm fine for now, tomorrow I will fix the paste, and hope to find a solution for the ledlight. The 3 pin is connected to the splitter, so that is not the issue I guess. Maybe I am wrong about the ledlight tho. And should the watertube and pump not be lightened.

A little update, it's around 10C lower, but with +0,9V on the CPU:
With Phanteks PH-TC12DX White @ 4,6Ghz en 1,18V

With Swiftech H240X2 @ 4,8Ghz en 1,27V


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think you might get a lot of different answers to that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting some concentrate from swiftech for mine. If all you want is a biocide, i think PT Nuke seems to be the most recommended thing, there's two different formulations though, i don't know which one everyone likes so much.


Thanks! It seems PT nuke is hard to find as the only place that has it is Amazon and it isn't even available in Prime. I also noticed there are two kinds, PHN and Cu. I will assume I should get the PHN because I am going solely with distilled water. Is that correct?

I my tubing is blue UV and I have some UV LEDs standing by. Depending on how good it looks I may at sometime in the future add some blue UV dye at that point I would probably have to get the PT Nuke Cu.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! It seems PT nuke is hard to find as the only place that has it is Amazon and it isn't even available in Prime. I also noticed there are two kinds, PHN and Cu. I will assume I should get the PHN because I am going solely with distilled water. Is that correct?
> 
> I my tubing is blue UV and I have some UV LEDs standing by. Depending on how good it looks I may at sometime in the future add some blue UV dye at that point I would probably have to get the PT Nuke Cu.


You can get it at sidewinders too, http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/coolantdyes.html
Probably other shops too, http://www.overclock.net/t/7848/stores-to-buy-watercooling-gear

> Is that correct?

I don't really know. This is why i'm getting some concentrate from swiftech and calling it a day







I have to replace the window on my 240x, it's an all-in-one because i'm an all-in-one kinda n00b. I'm going to clean it out with primochill sysprep and then refill it with the concentrate mixed with distilled water i get from a local drugstore. And then hopefully not open it up again for 3 years or so.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks! It seems PT nuke is hard to find as the only place that has it is Amazon and it isn't even available in Prime. I also noticed there are two kinds, PHN and Cu. I will assume I should get the PHN because I am going solely with distilled water. Is that correct?
> 
> I my tubing is blue UV and I have some UV LEDs standing by. Depending on how good it looks I may at sometime in the future add some blue UV dye at that point I would probably have to get the PT Nuke Cu.


Do yourself a favor.....there is all this "you must use distilled! and add this! and add that!"...do you know what you wind up with? You wind up with an improperly mixed bottle of XSPC/Mayhems/etc concentrate, and a bottle of distilled water. Just buy a bottle of reputable concentrate to mix with your distilled. It will have biocide, anti-corrosive and ant-scaling all already in there in the proper amounts.


----------



## Velathawen

Have to agree, it's a few bucks more and takes all the brainwork out. Just mix with the instructed ratio to distilled and you're good to go.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Have to agree, it's a few bucks more and takes all the brainwork out. Just mix with the instructed ratio to distilled and you're good to go.


The PT Nuke is a cleaner that you use to clean out the loop before filling it with whatever you want to fill it with.

But, being that I am new to the whole custom water loop I had no idea there was something like this concentrate stuff. I actually thought the concentrate was a dye mixed with the other stuff.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The PT Nuke is a cleaner that you use to clean out the loop before filling it with whatever you want to fill it with.
> 
> But, being that I am new to the whole custom water loop I had no idea there was something like this concentrate stuff. I actually thought the concentrate was a dye mixed with the other stuff.....


No.....PT Nuke is a biocide additive that is used in your coolant. Perhaps you are thinking of Mayhems Blitz, which is a cleaning agent?

This being a good example of why simply using a concentrate is a good idea. Concentrates don't necessarily contain dyes. I use XSPC ECX, clear, no dyes.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No.....PT Nuke is a biocide additive that is used in your coolant. Perhaps you are thinking of Mayhems Blitz, which is a cleaning agent?
> 
> This being a good example of why simply using a concentrate is a good idea. Concentrates don't necessarily contain dyes. I use XSPC ECX, clear, no dyes.


Your exactly right, my apologies. I got the things I was researching all jumbled together....lol


----------



## ronaldoz

The Swiftech's website specification says the waterblock for the H240X2 is copper. But it looks like chrome / aluminium. Is it copper really? I think using Coollaboratory Liquid Pro is a bad idea.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> The Swiftech's website specification says the waterblock for the H240X2 is copper. But it looks like chrome / aluminium. Is it copper really? I think using Coollaboratory Liquid Pro is a bad idea.


It's chrome plated copper. Using CLP over the IHS is a bad idea regardless.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's chrome plated copper. Using CLP over the IHS is a bad idea regardless.


most people lap down to copper then use cl yeah?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> most people lap down to copper then use cl yeah?


Most people use CLU at most, and even so mostly between the die and IHS after delidding. If your die to IHS heat transfer isn't great, CLP/CLU between the IHS and the cold plate won't do much good.

Assuming you are aware of all the risks, then yes lapping down to copper is going to help.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Most people use CLU at most, and even so mostly between the die and IHS after delidding. If your die to IHS heat transfer isn't great, CLP/CLU between the IHS and the cold plate won't do much good.
> 
> Assuming you are aware of all the risks, then yes lapping down to copper is going to help.


Hm, allright, but the heat transfer between die / ISH should be good after delidding? Why could it not be good? Sorry if this is not about the Swiftech watercooling sets tho, but it's nice to know what thermal compound will perform great and will suit the Swiftech's waterblock.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Hm, allright, but the heat transfer between die / ISH should be good after delidding? Why could it not be good? Sorry if this is not about the Swiftech watercooling sets tho, but it's nice to know what thermal compound will perform great and will suit the Swiftech's waterblock.


Delidding, replacing the stock Intel TIM with something better, and relidding will make the heat transfer between die and IHS better. Here is where people add Coolaboraty Pro Ultra generally, and not between the IHS and the block. But it is your decision. Before doing so, know that lapping the cold plate will probably void your warranty as it is.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> most people lap down to copper then use cl yeah?


I lapped my 240-X and used CLU on the IHS/cold plate and would not recommend it. Maybe with the new chrome plating not lapping may be safe (who knows)... but IMO it is better to just use traditional paste for the IHS to CPU block. 5-7c difference at most.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I didn't take pictures but be advised... I put CLU on my die and IHS and a layer of CLU definitely mechanically bonded (IE soaked into the metal) to my IHS and Swiftech copper block. And this is only after 3-4 months. I got it off the IHS, but could not completely clean the CPU block. Can't comment on temps since I introduced other variables into my loop.


Also, to clarify, since scuffed up the cold plate, it soaked into those surfaces. It wasn't just a little bit that soaked in, it was a lot and noticeably discolored. Not this bad, but close. If I am not mistaken, this will slightly reduce the cooling potential of the unit.

Again, not worth it.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Hm, allright, but the heat transfer between die / ISH should be good after delidding? Why could it not be good? Sorry if this is not about the Swiftech watercooling sets tho, but it's nice to know what thermal compound will perform great and will suit the Swiftech's waterblock.


I'm 90% certain Swiftech's TIM is Arctic MX-2, it's around the same performance of AS5. It's a proven durable and easy to apply paste. you likely won't notice much temp difference using other pastes between IHS and waterblock. The thermal bottleneck is mostly between die and IHS. Buying an expensive TIM and getting a bad spread on IHS could actually perform worse.

also, RE: CLU on IHS/Waterblock - I too tried it and it left silvery spots on the block even after lapping it. Not sure about the long-term effects of this but I wouldn't recommend it. Not sure about the new chrome plated ones, but I know nickel is resistant to CLU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> *What additive does everyone recommend for keeping the fluid free from algae and other build up?*
> FYI, I will be using distilled water and no dye in this build. I will also probably be adding the antimicrobial silver strip I have.


I would definitely recommend at least something with corrosion resistance. I experienced some corrosion adding Swiftech Lok-Seal (chrome plated) fittings to my H240-X with distilled+PT Nuke PHN. Personally I'm now using Mayhems XT-1 with de-ionized water after replacing/modifying much of my H240-X, but any of the mayhems clear premixes or concentrates should work well. Sure there might be a few degrees difference in temps over pure distilled or de-ionized and a biocide, but I don't think it's worth the risk of corrosion. The dyed versions would likely need more frequent coolant maintenance.

This was a Lok-Seal (chrome plated) barb after running for a few months with no corrosion additive (all brass and copper, and a few of these Lok-Seal fittings). resulted in a difficult to remove white residue, took much scrubbing/scraping to clean it. (general consensus was corrosion not plasticizer since I was using the swiftech norprene tubing).


I'd imagine the new chrome plated Apogee block might exhibit the same symptoms after prolonged use without any anti-corrosive additives. YMMV though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I'm 90% certain Swiftech's TIM is Arctic MX-2, it's around the same performance of AS5. It's a proven durable and easy to apply paste. you likely won't notice much temp difference using other pastes between IHS and waterblock. The thermal bottleneck is mostly between die and IHS. Buying an expensive TIM and getting a bad spread on IHS could actually perform worse.
> 
> also, RE: CLU on IHS/Waterblock - I too tried it and it left silvery spots on the block even after lapping it. Not sure about the long-term effects of this but I wouldn't recommend it. Not sure about the new chrome plated ones, but I know nickel is resistant to CLU.
> I would definitely recommend at least something with corrosion resistance. I experienced some corrosion adding Swiftech Lok-Seal (chrome plated) fittings to my H240-X with distilled+PT Nuke PHN. Personally I'm now using Mayhems XT-1 with de-ionized water after replacing/modifying much of my H240-X, but any of the mayhems clear premixes or concentrates should work well. Sure there might be a few degrees difference in temps over pure distilled or de-ionized and a biocide, but I don't think it's worth the risk of corrosion. The dyed versions would likely need more frequent coolant maintenance.
> 
> This was a Lok-Seal (chrome plated) barb after running for a few months with no corrosion additive (all brass and copper, and a few of these Lok-Seal fittings). resulted in a difficult to remove white residue, took much scrubbing/scraping to clean it. (general consensus was corrosion not plasticizer since I was using the swiftech norprene tubing).
> 
> 
> I'd imagine the new chrome plated Apogee block might exhibit the same symptoms after prolonged use without any anti-corrosive additives. YMMV though.


that looks almost what tap water would look like after running for that long


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that looks almost what tap water would look like after running for that long


was flushed several times with distilled, only component added at that time was an extra swiftech radiator (brass) which was thoroughly flushed with vinegar and distilled, and two Lok-Seal fittings. I'm not sure what type of chrome plating Swiftech uses, but chromium is even further from copper/brass on the metallurgy anodic index table than nickel plating is - so I would assume it's slightly more prone to corrosion, but still nowhere near as bad as mixing aluminum in a loop. However, if you add silver there's a pretty far range between chromium and silver - and EK recently has been recommending to not mix silver with nickel (which is not quite as far on the index table as chromium).

Edit: Although If Swiftech is using the more expensive nickel-chromium alloy type plating then it should be negligible, as they're about the same on the anodic index table - but my above post with Lok-Seal plated corrosion suggests otherwise, unless there was another factor involved.


----------



## jincuteguy

Can you delid a 5820k cpu?


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Can you delid a 5820k cpu?


That is a soldered CPU, so you cannot delid it the same way as Ivy-Bridge, Haswell, and Devil's Canyon chips are done.

You'll need a heat gun to melt the solder before being able to remove the attached integrated heat spreader. Quite a lot more involved but can be done, as was done with previous CPUs before Intel started using TIM.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I'm 90% certain Swiftech's TIM is Arctic MX-2, it's around the same performance of AS5. It's a proven durable and easy to apply paste. you likely won't notice much temp difference using other pastes between IHS and waterblock. The thermal bottleneck is mostly between die and IHS. Buying an expensive TIM and getting a bad spread on IHS could actually perform worse.
> 
> also, RE: CLU on IHS/Waterblock - I too tried it and it left silvery spots on the block even after lapping it. Not sure about the long-term effects of this but I wouldn't recommend it. Not sure about the new chrome plated ones, but I know nickel is resistant to CLU.
> ....


Allright, I'll get 'normal' paste to use between IHS and waterblock. Later on, I could maybe lap it, and put Liquid Ultra on there. I will do some research to know what is a good thermal paste for the waterblock + IHS.

Edit: Ordered Liquid Ultra + Gelid GC-Extreme.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Allright, I'll get 'normal' paste to use between IHS and waterblock. Later on, I could maybe lap it, and put Liquid Ultra on there. I will do some research to know what is a good thermal paste for the waterblock + IHS.
> 
> Edit: Ordered Liquid Ultra + Gelid GC-Extreme.


Not sure about Swiftech's policy now, but [email protected] once told me using CLU on waterblock would void warranty. Gelid GC-E is good stuff, but a bit thick. Should still work well. Also I noticed the Apogee XL block is ever so slightly convex, so I'm unsure the best spread method or paste if you only lap the CPU IHS. I know this is a Swiftech thread and I personally love the aesthetics of the Apogee but to be honest if you're really requiring better CPU temps, an EK block would net more gains. However, even the best water cooled systems struggle to keep a delidded/CLU'd haswell under control with AVX2 workloads. I think there just isn't enough silicon die space to disperse the immense amount of heat (which also explains why the core closer to iGPU is usually colder).

I lapped both my CPU and block, but saw more temp differences in paste applications than anything. Also, I believe increasing mounting pressure by adding a washer under each spring may be effective for delidded CPU's since our CPU's sit aproximately 0.54mm lower, if I recall correctly.

pics before/after. can't find the one where I lapped it again but still couldn't get all the silver color off the block.





also just cause I love this shot, my apogee with PPC's custom ROG plate (and red tape underneath to reduce the orange)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Not sure about Swiftech's policy now, but [email protected] once told me using CLU on waterblock would void warranty. Gelid GC-E is good stuff, but a bit thick. Should still work well. Also I noticed the Apogee XL block is ever so slightly convex, so I'm unsure the best spread method or paste if you only lap the CPU IHS. I know this is a Swiftech thread and I personally love the aesthetics of the Apogee but to be honest if you're really requiring better CPU temps, an EK block would net more gains. However, even the best water cooled systems struggle to keep a delidded/CLU'd haswell under control with AVX2 workloads. I think there just isn't enough silicon die space to disperse the immense amount of heat (which also explains why the core closer to iGPU is usually colder).
> 
> I lapped both my CPU and block, but saw more temp differences in paste applications than anything. Also, I believe increasing mounting pressure by adding a washer under each spring may be effective for delidded CPU's since our CPU's sit aproximately 0.54mm lower, if I recall correctly.
> 
> pics before/after. can't find the one where I lapped it again but still couldn't get all the silver color off the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also just cause I love this shot, my apogee with PPC's custom ROG plate (and red tape underneath to reduce the orange)


from what I've been reading the new version of swiftech block that comes with the x2 is snagging things right now...and nearly every heatsink will be thus way because most ihs are the opposite I'm thinking it was concave and convex though


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> from what I've been reading the new version of swiftech block that comes with the x2 is snagging things right now...and nearly every heatsink will be thus way because most ihs are the opposite I'm thinking it was concave and convex though


What do you mean by "snagging"?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What do you mean by "snagging"?


that actually was a typo...supposed to be smacking


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that actually was a typo...supposed to be smacking


Then I assume by smacking you mean kicking tail?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Then I assume by smacking you mean kicking tail?


yeah cpu block looks to be around 4c lower than most...but I haven't tested it myself


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah cpu block looks to be around 4c lower than most...but I haven't tested it myself


Where are you seeing this?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where are you seeing this?


someone posted a review of the h220x2 bit back showing a decent drop in temperatures and they attributed it to the new block design and fans


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> someone posted a review of the h220x2 bit back showing a decent drop in temperatures and they attributed it to the new block design and fans


They can attribute it to whatever they please, but using a CPU cooler's performance to say the block is better than others is a huge stretch. No one has bothered to test the block by itself so far.


----------



## s74r1

From the looks of the new block, I doubt it's thermal dissipation has changed much since they didn't change the coldplate. higher flow rate though an Apogee XL hasn't been shown to improve temps to any significant degree. Other block designs have special inlet designs which focus the coolant on the hot spots of the coldplate and CPU cores. Testing has also shown positioning the Apogee XL sideways improves performance, so there is definitely room to improve the coldplate and inlet/outlet design.

I did notice the inlet/outlet of the Apogee XL was rather narrow though and I did some dremel modifications of my own to widen it a bit - but I assume Swiftech just did something similar with the new X2 top they're using. Curious though they're still using the same pump outlet which is just as narrow (about 1/4" ID I think) but the impeller chamber is more designed for pressure anyways so it's not any larger than that to begin with. The old POM clamp-style angled fittings were narrow too but in this case I don't believe flow rate is an issue.

The fixed reservoir/radiator design and better fans are probably the best improvement of the new units, though I don't have one to test or compare. I'm also curious how the new clear tubing holds up to the old norprene tubing and if plasticizer will once again be a problem.

Edit: I'd also imagine the new units a ton easier to bleed. the old design was nearly impossible to get all the air out without a bleed screw (which had to be removed in future revisions due to increased chance of cracking)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> From the looks of the new block, I doubt it's thermal dissipation has changed much since they didn't change the coldplate. higher flow rate though an Apogee XL hasn't been shown to improve temps to any significant degree. Other block designs have special inlet designs which focus the coolant on the hot spots of the coldplate and CPU cores. Testing has also shown positioning the Apogee XL sideways improves performance, so there is definitely room to improve the coldplate and inlet/outlet design.
> 
> I did notice the inlet/outlet of the Apogee XL was rather narrow though and I did some dremel modifications of my own to widen it a bit - but I assume Swiftech just did something similar with the new X2 top they're using. Curious though they're still using the same pump outlet which is just as narrow (about 1/4" ID I think) but the impeller chamber is more designed for pressure anyways so it's not any larger than that to begin with. The old POM clamp-style angled fittings were narrow too but in this case I don't believe flow rate is an issue.
> 
> The fixed reservoir/radiator design and better fans are probably the best improvement of the new units, though I don't have one to test or compare. I'm also curious how the new clear tubing holds up to the old norprene tubing and if plasticizer will once again be a problem.


I thought they did change something about the coldplate something about more and smaller fins? Maybe i'm mis-remembering that?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I thought they did change something about the coldplate something about more and smaller fins? Maybe i'm mis-remembering that?


Odd, Swiftech told me there was no change in the "base plate" which I assume they meant the coldplate I was asking about. I can't find any detailed pictures but it certainly looks the same besides being chrome plated.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They can attribute it to whatever they please, but using a CPU cooler's performance to say the block is better than others is a huge stretch. No one has bothered to test the block by itself so far.


true enough but it would be nice if that were the case...I'd like to see it tested soon along side eks offerings and the original...since those seem to be the larger contenders...I'd make the jump if it did in fact help 4c on load that would put it fighting for 1


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am still seriously thinking about getting the H320-X2 prestige. Right now it is between that and selling my 980 to get a 980 Ti. The price would end up being about the same after I sell my 980.

In the meantime I need advice on a good way to hook up a quick fill and a quick drain port for the loop I am building. I am trying to keep the price down but I want something that works easily enough.
Would you guys recommend quick connect fittings or is a cheaper way?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Odd, Swiftech told me there was no change in the "base plate" which I assume they meant the coldplate I was asking about. I can't find any detailed pictures but it certainly looks the same besides being chrome plated.


I probably got it wrong then.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Odd, Swiftech told me there was no change in the "base plate" which I assume they meant the coldplate I was asking about. I can't find any detailed pictures but it certainly looks the same besides being chrome plated.


There's no change , it's their New Block that has smaller fins, but they haven't released it yet.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have looked on the Swiftech site and found the HydrX coolant. But green would not go well with my clear UV blue tubing. So I went for the HydX PM 2 coolant which would be perfect because it is blue, but it's not in stock. I emailed them to see when it would be back but no response so far.

In lieu of that what is a good alternative to the HydrX PM 2 mix that will not clog my loop or void my warranty?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have looked on the Swiftech site and found the HydrX coolant. But green would not go well with my clear UV blue tubing. So I went for the HydX PM 2 coolant which would be perfect because it is blue, but it's not in stock. I emailed them to see when it would be back but no response so far.
> 
> In lieu of that what is a good alternative to the HydrX PM 2 mix that will not clog my loop or void my warranty?


Hydrx PM2 was discontinued - it will not be back in stock. Grab a bottle of XSPC ECX UV clear concentrate and a bottle of distilled water.


----------



## fusionxmikeyp

Hopefully someone can help me with a question I have, I am really new to water cooling. I bought the H220 X2 and I am adding a GPU block and an additional 240 rad, my question would be loop order?

I was thinking from the H220 X2 to the other 240 rad then cpu, gpu back to the H220 X2, there are two connections on the H220 so which one would go to the other 240 rad?

I was thinking the fittings close to the pump would where the coolant returns to the reservoir?

I know it's a silly question but I would rather be safe then sorry, THANK YOU in advance for any help given!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fusionxmikeyp*
> 
> Hopefully someone can help me with a question I have, I am really new to water cooling. I bought the H220 X2 and I am adding a GPU block and an additional 240 rad, my question would be loop order?
> 
> I was thinking from the H220 X2 to the other 240 rad then cpu, gpu back to the H220 X2, there are two connections on the H220 so which one would go to the other 240 rad?
> 
> I was thinking the fittings close to the pump would where the coolant returns to the reservoir?
> 
> I know it's a silly question but I would rather be safe then sorry, THANK YOU in advance for any help given!


The best order is the one that looks cleanest in the case. Liquid temp stabilizes through the loop and is not affected by loop order.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fusionxmikeyp*
> 
> Hopefully someone can help me with a question I have, I am really new to water cooling. I bought the H220 X2 and I am adding a GPU block and an additional 240 rad, my question would be loop order?
> 
> I was thinking from the H220 X2 to the other 240 rad then cpu, gpu back to the H220 X2, there are two connections on the H220 so which one would go to the other 240 rad?
> 
> I was thinking the fittings close to the pump would where the coolant returns to the reservoir?
> 
> I know it's a silly question but I would rather be safe then sorry, THANK YOU in advance for any help given!


I have a H220-X with gpu block and additional 240mm rad. I went Pump outlet >cpu>240mm rad>gpu>back to main unit. Seems to work fine.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Hydrx PM2 was discontinued - it will not be back in stock. Grab a bottle of XSPC ECX UV clear concentrate and a bottle of distilled water.


The sight does not mention they discontinued it. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have looked on the Swiftech site and found the HydrX coolant. But green would not go well with my clear UV blue tubing. So I went for the HydX PM 2 coolant which would be perfect because it is blue, but it's not in stock. I emailed them to see when it would be back but no response so far.
> 
> In lieu of that what is a good alternative to the HydrX PM 2 mix that will not clog my loop or void my warranty?


personally I'd recommend mayhems if you want a dyed coolant. possibly EK's blue coolant might be decent too. be aware though that dyed coolants do eventually break down and require more frequent maintenance. there's also the difference between PG and EG based coolants, PG (propylene glycol) is used in the majority of coolants nowadays due to environmental regulations but it's not as durable as EG (ethylene glycol). you can still find pure EG in mayhems XT-1 concentrate (or one of their standard X1 coolants if you prefer PG-based environmental friendly non-toxic coolant) and mix it with one of their dyes. there's premixes too. mayhems is generally the only recommended dye I've seen around here unless newer stuff has surfaced. also stay away from ice dragon coolant it's just hype.

and correct me if I'm wrong but I believe EK is now using mayhems dyes?

I won't get into the differences between dyes and nano-particles, as that's a complicated subject... but also be aware of dye staining or particles which can clog.

also regarding HydX if you read the spec sheets it's just xerex antifreeze, along with their own dyes. It's been proven to require frequent maintenance to prevent clogging. and yes the PM2 was discontinued, I believe it's similar to the stuff they were originally using in the H220/H240 but likely just a PG-based antifreeze. [email protected] told me they used a 20%/80% mix ratio. This is a bit excessive though, most are 5%-10% (I use 8% XT-1 with de-ion water) but it also depends how pure the original concentrate is (or if it was diluted).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> personally I'd recommend mayhems if you want a dyed coolant. possibly EK's blue coolant might be decent too. be aware though that dyed coolants do eventually break down and require more frequent maintenance. there's also the difference between PG and EG based coolants, PG (propylene glycol) is used in the majority of coolants nowadays due to environmental regulations but it's not as durable as EG (ethylene glycol). you can still find pure EG in mayhems XT-1 concentrate (or one of their standard X1 coolants if you prefer PG-based environmental friendly non-toxic coolant) and mix it with one of their dyes. there's premixes too. mayhems is generally the only recommended dye I've seen around here unless newer stuff has surfaced. also stay away from ice dragon coolant it's just hype.
> 
> and correct me if I'm wrong but I believe EK is now using mayhems dyes?
> 
> I won't get into the differences between dyes and nano-particles, as that's a complicated subject... but also be aware of dye staining or particles which can clog.
> 
> also regarding HydX if you read the spec sheets it's just xerex antifreeze, along with their own dyes. It's been proven to require frequent maintenance to prevent clogging. and yes the PM2 was discontinued, I believe it's similar to the stuff they were originally using in the H220/H240 but likely just a PG-based antifreeze. [email protected] told me they used a 20%/80% mix ratio. This is a bit excessive though, most are 5%-10% (I use 8% XT-1 with de-ion water) but it also depends how pure the original concentrate is (or if it was diluted).


Thanks very much for the info!
I'd prefer to get a non dye type (which is primarily why I choose the UV tubing) and the more endurable concentrate additive. I had the X1 PG Mayhems coolant on my wishlist at Performance PC's but recently removed it because it was a dye also.

I'd prefer to get a non dye type (which is primarily why I choose the UV tubing) and the more endurable concentrate additive. I just found this Mayhems and will be ordering it today sometime.
Is that what I need?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks very much for the info!
> I'd prefer to get a non dye type (which is primarily why I choose the UV tubing) and the more endurable concentrate additive. I had the X1 PG Mayhems coolant on my wishlist at Performance PC's but recently removed it because it was a dye also.
> 
> I'd prefer to get a non dye type (which is primarily why I choose the UV tubing) and the more endurable concentrate additive. I just found this Mayhems and will be ordering it today sometime.
> Is that what I need?


Yeah that's what I use with their Ultra Pure H2O though it would work with distilled or cheaper de-ionized water. make sure to flush everything thoroughly first, since I'm OCD I ran my system a few times with the cheaper DimasTech® UltraPure Water but flushing with distilled would work too.

I've been going about 6 months now still clear reservoir and no evidence of corrosion or microbes anywhere. you can mix anywhere from 5%-20% probably but anything over 10%-15% would increase temps and increase load on pump. 5% is likely sufficient if just using brass/copper, but I'd go a little higher if you have other metals like chrome, nickel, or silver in the loop too (like maybe 75ml/1000ml)

Edit: TIP: always buy more than you think you need. also if using the XT-1 use gloves, as it's kinda toxic. X1 is non-toxic. and regarding the marketing material, the XT-1 has the same anti-scaling, anti-corrosive, and biological inhibitor properties the X1 has. EG is just more durable at the expense of toxicity. reason why the X1 is more common is because of environmental regulations, same reason most car antifreezes have switched to PG...

Edit2: the clear XT-1 in a clean loop with good water should last years, according to my research. (though of course the manufacturer recommends 1year to sell more, or to account for dirty systems)

Edit3: I know most recommend distilled+PT Nuke, but IMO it's not worth the risk just for a few degrees difference. especially if you're going for longevity. add another radiator or upgrade fans if you need more cooling.



Edit4: also, my previous experience modifying my H240-X with just distilled and PT Nuke resulted in this on a Swiftech Lok-Seal fitting after just a few months (all swiftech parts, just copper, brass, and two of their chrome-plated Lok-Seal fittings):


----------



## fusionxmikeyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The best order is the one that looks cleanest in the case. Liquid temp stabilizes through the loop and is not affected by loop order.


Great, Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Yeah that's what I use with their Ultra Pure H2O though it would work with distilled or cheaper de-ionized water. make sure to flush everything thoroughly first, since I'm OCD I ran my system a few times with the cheaper DimasTech® UltraPure Water
> 
> I've been going about 6 months now still clear reservoir and no evidence of corrosion or microbes anywhere. you can mix anywhere from 5%-20% probably but anything over 10% would likely increase temps too much and increase load on pump. 5% is likely sufficient if just using brass/copper, but I'd go a little higher if you have other metals like chrome, nickel, or silver in the loop too.
> 
> Edit: TIP: always buy more than you think you need. also if using the XT-1 use gloves, as it's kinda toxic. X1 is non-toxic. and regarding the marketing material, the XT-1 has the same anti-scaling and biological inhibitor properties the X1 has. EG is just more durable at the expense of toxicity.


Cool thanks! I will be using the primochill sysprep pretreat to clean out my loop.

I will going through the process of possibly filling, draining and refilling my loop a second time. I have temporary Xeon 2670 for my 4930k while it goes in for the intel tuning plan for replacement. I may or may not hook up my complete waterloop with this Xeon chip .... I still have to go through the process of adding in the LED UV lights (I have 4 of the razor led sets and 3 individual UV leds for placement in the darker areas for more even lighting). I also need to research the K2 paste I need to use for my XPSC water block set on my RIVBE MB. At least that is the paste I was told I would need for this waterblock set and thermal pads....


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Cool thanks! I will be using the primochill sysprep pretreat to clean out my loop.
> 
> I will going through the process of possibly filling, draining and refilling my loop a second time. I have temporary Xeon 2670 for my 4930k while it goes in for the intel tuning plan for replacement. I may or may not hook up my complete waterloop with this Xeon chip .... I still have to go through the process of adding in the LED UV lights (I have 4 of the razor led sets and 3 individual UV leds for placement in the darker areas for more even lighting). I also need to research the K2 paste I need to use for my XPSC water block set on my RIVBE MB. At least that is the paste I was told I would need for this waterblock set and thermal pads....


I would avoid anything primochill personally, but I haven't read much on that particular kit other than Mayhems arguments that they copied their cleaning kit. also most of those cleaning kits are just acids. vinegar is an acid and usually sufficient, but with any acids be careful not to leave it in the components too long, they will eat copper and brass. There was some threads awhile back about cleaning kits causing XSPC radiators to leak, but this was likely due to structural weak points they "patch up" after manufacturing. copper and brass tarnish but it hasn't shown any affect on temperatures. the reason you see blue or green fluid coming out after cleaning is due to the acids stripping away a very thin layer of the oxidated/tarnished metal. The most important part though is to dissolve any remaining tin or flux from radiators, and any particles that may remain. (I had many black particles come out of my Black Ice Nemesis L Xtreme). and if flushing from a previous coolant, flush many times with just water (be it distilled or de-ionized, or whatever. I usually flush from cheapest to most expensive but I'm OCD about cleanliness)

also, my post you quoted I edited quite a few times since then with more info.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I would avoid anything primochill personally, but I haven't read much on that particular kit other than Mayhems arguments that they copied their cleaning kit. also most of those cleaning kits are just acids. vinegar is an acid and usually sufficient, but with any acids be careful not to leave it in the components too long, they will eat copper and brass. There was some threads awhile back about cleaning kits causing XSPC radiators to leak, but this was likely due to structural weak points they "patch up" after manufacturing. copper and brass tarnish but it hasn't shown any affect on temperatures. the reason you see blue or green fluid coming out after cleaning is due to the acids stripping away a very thin layer of the oxidated/tarnished metal. The most important part though is to dissolve any remaining tin or flux from radiators, and any particles that may remain. (I had many black particles come out of my Black Ice Nemesis L Xtreme). and if flushing from a previous coolant, flush many times with just water (be it distilled or de-ionized, or whatever. I usually flush from cheapest to most expensive but I'm OCD about cleanliness)
> 
> also, my post you quoted I edited quite a few times since then with more info.


Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....

I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.

I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....
> 
> I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.
> 
> I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.


I could be mixing up brands here, I'm probably thinking of Feser. your kit is probably fine, don't take my opinions as fact - I've just always used vinegar when flushing radiators and scrubbing blocks, there's some guides on xtremesystems i believe. usually 20%-50% mix ratio of distilled white vinegar with hot (NOT boiling) water. shake it, tilt it, etc, repeat until satisfied and flush with water to get the vinegar and anything else out. I've never flushed an entire assembled system before, it's best to disassemble and clean individually usually. for tubing a coat hanger and piece of an old shirt works well if re-using the tubing. Edit: but since we're talking about an AIO, I suppose it kinda has to be mostly flushed as one unless you disassemble it. also your tubing shouldn't be dirty unless it's been running for a long time. Edit2: also, *don't use acids like vinegar on acrylic*.

I can't really answer your second question other than to suggest some T-fittings with a valve or cap. the fillport should be at the tallest part of the loop and drainport at the bottom-most part of the loop. be aware the more fittings you add the more chance something can fail or leak too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....
> 
> I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.
> 
> I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.


There is nothing wrong with Primochill - most see it as the best tubing available that is not clear.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I could be mixing up brands here, I'm probably thinking of Feser. your kit is probably fine, don't take my opinions as fact - I've just always used vinegar when flushing radiators and scrubbing blocks, there's some guides on xtremesystems i believe. usually 20%-50% mix ratio with hot (NOT boiling) water. shake it, tilt it, etc, repeat until satisfied and flush with water to get the vinegar and anything else out. I've never flushed an entire assembled system before, it's best to disassemble and clean individually usually. for tubing a coat hanger and piece of an old shirt works well if re-using the tubing. Edit: but since we're talking about an AIO, I suppose it kinda has to be mostly flushed as one unless you disassemble it. Edit2: also, *don't use acids like vinegar on acrylic*.
> 
> I can't really answer your second question other than to suggest some T-fittings with a valve or cap. the fillport should be at the tallest part of the loop and drainport at the bottom-most part of the loop. be aware the more fittings you add the more chance something can fail or leak too.


I understand about removing the system to clean and flush. but I will be adding the inline drain and fill ports just for when the system gets low of I just want to change the fluid. I am hoping I will not have to clean and flush for quite awhile in comparison to just filling it every so often.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....
> 
> I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.
> 
> I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.


I''ve got some sys prep coming my way too. I ordered the stuff for the same reason i got a coolant concentrate instead of trying to do a custom coolant mix with with ptnuke + antifreeze. I wouldn't know what to mix up myself that wouldn't damage stuff in the loop. I hoping it will kill any living organisms in the loop too. I'll be using the sys prep to clean and then a clear coolant concentrate provided by switftech to refill. Dango said its the same stuff that their aio kits are filled with.

Is putting a filter inline somewhere while running the cleaner thru the loop a good idea? To pick up any particles that the sys prep lifts? I have some sponge filter material i could wedge it into the res or into the line returning to the res.

[wonderful, maximally aggressive anti-ad-blocker policy now in force]


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I''ve got some sys prep coming my way too. I ordered the stuff for the same reason i got a coolant concentrate instead of trying to do a custom coolant mix with with ptnuke + antifreeze. I wouldn't know what to mix up myself that wouldn't damage stuff in the loop. I hoping it will kill any living organisms in the loop too. I'll be using the sys prep to clean and then a clear coolant concentrate provided by switftech to refill. Dango said its the same stuff that their aio kits are filled with.
> 
> Is putting a filter inline somewhere while running the cleaner thru the loop a good idea? To pick up any particles that the sys prep lifts? I have some sponge filter material i could wedge it into the res or into the line returning to the res.
> 
> [wonderful, maximally aggressive anti-ad-blocker policy now in force]


I would not recommend putting any kind of filter in your system as that will more than likely reduce the pressure produced by the pump and probably reduce the pump life at that. I believe it is a recommended practice to keep the line as free from any kind of obstruction as possible including inline flow meters.

Yeah I dislike the fact that they put the aggressive ads in here now. If they get to aggressive then I will simply have to forgot using this site. Putting them on the side is fine but when they start doing pop ups in the middle of the screen blocking whatever I was reading and/or forcing me to click to close the ad is when I will draw the line. I think at that point the go to for stuff like this will have to be Tom's Hardware unless there is another good OC site out there.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I would not recommend putting any kind of filter in your system as that will more than likely reduce the pressure produced by the pump and probably reduce the pump life at that. I believe it is a recommended practice to keep the line as free from any kind of obstruction as possible including inline flow meters.
> 
> Yeah I dislike the fact that they put the aggressive ads in here now. If they get to aggressive then I will simply have to forgot using this site. Putting them on the side is fine but when they start doing pop ups in the middle of the screen blocking whatever I was reading and/or forcing me to click to close the ad is when I will draw the line. I think at that point the go to for stuff like this will have to be Tom's Hardware unless there is another good OC site out there.


I didn't mean to leave the filter there for normal use, just for the sys prep cleaning process.

I avoided using ad blocker for the longest time... but too many auto-playing video adds and obnoxious flash adds that cover the entire page and some pages so overburdened with adds the the page hardly functions... too many experiences like that on the web finally pushed me to install the ad-blocker.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I didn't mean to leave the filter there for normal use, just for the sys prep cleaning process.
> 
> I avoided using ad blocker for the longest time... but too many auto-playing video adds and obnoxious flash adds that cover the entire page and some pages so overburdened with adds the the page hardly functions... too many experiences like that on the web finally pushed me to install the ad-blocker.


I am not so sure the filter would help any plus there is the possibility of it leaving some residue behind.

I've had ad blocker installed since I heard about it like 2 years ago. I understand the need for companies to advertise but all they are is annoying when you don't have the money to even think about half the stuff that pops up in those ads....


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am not so sure the filter would help any plus there is the possibility of it leaving some residue behind.
> 
> I've had ad blocker installed since I heard about it like 2 years ago. I understand the need for companies to advertise but all they are is annoying when you don't have the money to even think about half the stuff that pops up in those ads....


When I drain the existing liquid, i'll strain it thru a coffee filter to get an idea of what is in there, then i'll think about the inline filter while sys prepping.

There's a video add playing in the bottom left of my page now. Health Food Myths: Eating Late. I'm going to report it as "inappropriate" on the basis of ANY video add being inappropriate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> When I drain the existing liquid, i'll strain it thru a coffee filter to get an idea of what is in there, then i'll think about the inline filter while sys prepping.
> 
> There's a video add playing in the bottom left of my page now. Health Food Myths: Eating Late. I'm going to report it as "inappropriate" on the basis of ANY video add being inappropriate.


I don't think your pump is going to be very happy about the idea of a very restrictive filter. There is probably a pretty good reason that these aren't a part that is available....


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't think your pump is going to be very happy about the idea of a very restrictive filter. There is probably a pretty good reason that these aren't a part that is available....


Ok, but to be fair, I didn't say very restrictive and there are filters available as parts.



The idea behind these parts is to protect the pump from ingesting something that could cause it damage.


----------



## michael-ocn

And OT: i've had the first experience i can remember with a completely unresponsive overclock.net page, thanx to a crappy poorly implemented ad (i think it was the video ad but it's hard to tell given the number of ads).

I'd rather pay a modest fee than be stuck with crappy ads destroying the site.


----------



## Laithan

EDIT: I found the missing screws! yay!


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> When I drain the existing liquid, i'll strain it thru a coffee filter to get an idea of what is in there, then i'll think about the inline filter while sys prepping.
> 
> There's a video add playing in the bottom left of my page now. Health Food Myths: Eating Late. I'm going to report it as "inappropriate" on the basis of ANY video add being inappropriate.


temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fusionxmikeyp*
> 
> Hopefully someone can help me with a question I have, I am really new to water cooling. I bought the H220 X2 and I am adding a GPU block and an additional 240 rad, my question would be loop order?
> 
> I was thinking from the H220 X2 to the other 240 rad then cpu, gpu back to the H220 X2, there are two connections on the H220 so which one would go to the other 240 rad?
> 
> I was thinking the fittings close to the pump would where the coolant returns to the reservoir?
> 
> I know it's a silly question but I would rather be safe then sorry, THANK YOU in advance for any help given!
> 
> 
> 
> The best order is the one that looks cleanest in the case. Liquid temp stabilizes through the loop and is not affected by loop order.
Click to expand...

This is true but I would like to add the only exception is ( does not effect h220* ) is to make sure res is before pump and I mean directly,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I would avoid anything primochill personally, but I haven't read much on that particular kit other than Mayhems arguments that they copied their cleaning kit. also most of those cleaning kits are just acids. vinegar is an acid and usually sufficient, but with any acids be careful not to leave it in the components too long, they will eat copper and brass. There was some threads awhile back about cleaning kits causing XSPC radiators to leak, but this was likely due to structural weak points they "patch up" after manufacturing. copper and brass tarnish but it hasn't shown any affect on temperatures. the reason you see blue or green fluid coming out after cleaning is due to the acids stripping away a very thin layer of the oxidated/tarnished metal. The most important part though is to dissolve any remaining tin or flux from radiators, and any particles that may remain. (I had many black particles come out of my Black Ice Nemesis L Xtreme). and if flushing from a previous coolant, flush many times with just water (be it distilled or de-ionized, or whatever. I usually flush from cheapest to most expensive but I'm OCD about cleanliness)
> 
> also, my post you quoted I edited quite a few times since then with more info.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....
> 
> I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.
> 
> I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.
Click to expand...

5% is plenty and Tbh even that isn't needed, hot water works fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I''ve got some sys prep coming my way too. I ordered the stuff for the same reason i got a coolant concentrate instead of trying to do a custom coolant mix with with ptnuke + antifreeze. I wouldn't know what to mix up myself that wouldn't damage stuff in the loop. I hoping it will kill any living organisms in the loop too. I'll be using the sys prep to clean and then a clear coolant concentrate provided by switftech to refill. Dango said its the same stuff that their aio kits are filled with.
> 
> Is putting a filter inline somewhere while running the cleaner thru the loop a good idea? To pick up any particles that the sys prep lifts? I have some sponge filter material i could wedge it into the res or into the line returning to the res.
> 
> [wonderful, maximally aggressive anti-ad-blocker policy now in force]
> 
> 
> 
> I would not recommend putting any kind of filter in your system as that will more than likely reduce the pressure produced by the pump and probably reduce the pump life at that. I believe it is a recommended practice to keep the line as free from any kind of obstruction as possible including inline flow meters.
> 
> Yeah I dislike the fact that they put the aggressive ads in here now. If they get to aggressive then I will simply have to forgot using this site. Putting them on the side is fine but when they start doing pop ups in the middle of the screen blocking whatever I was reading and/or forcing me to click to close the ad is when I will draw the line. I think at that point the go to for stuff like this will have to be Tom's Hardware unless there is another good OC site out there.
Click to expand...

This really isn't the case, filters are fine

Everything in your loop all add restriction. The big thing about restrictions is to make sure your loop has enough flow pumps/fans/motors are DESIGNED to have some restriction and it DOES NOT hurt them in any way (this is not addressing extremes like 100% restrictions just normal situations )


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, *restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps*.


Thnx for that tip!


----------



## ronaldoz

Because the tubes of the 240X2 are resting on my graphic card, I would like to cut the watertubes. Should I remove the radiator and waterblock to do this? And put some kinda water back in it?


----------



## michael-ocn

OT: Anybody here with an nvidia gpu? We could use your help in the single gpu category of this nvidia vs amd benching competition.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1586140/3d-fanboy-competition-2016-nvidia-vs-amd
And if you have an amd gpu... nevermind.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Because the tubes of the 240X2 are resting on my graphic card, I would like to cut the watertubes. Should I remove the radiator and waterblock to do this? And put some kinda water back in it?


Unless you want coolant leaking all over, I would definitely suggest removing the unit (and buying many rolls of paper towels). You'll likely need to top up the coolant a bit afterwards. distilled or de-ionized water should be fine unless you end up loosing more than about half the coolant, IMO. If you feel the need to replace it with another coolant, don't mix different coolant types - you should flush out the existing coolant first and completely replace it, as some coolants don't play nice together. also be careful not to run the pump dry if you find that you lost too much coolant, this will quickly wear it out (you'd have to keep adding more water or coolant and cycle the pump on/off to prime and bleed it if it gets very low.)

Also, a tip for disassembling a filled system; get some gloves and as soon as you remove the first tube - plug one or both of the ends with your thumb(s). It will reduce coolant leakage. Even better if you can wedge a plug in there quickly. Be aware of gravity too, to reduce leaking. The radiator/reservoir will likely want to push the coolant in one direction. Try not to introduce any additional dirt/dust/debris as well.

Edit: I have done this procedure with a system still installed, but it still makes a mess. If you don't intend to remove it, then place paper towels, plates, and/or bowls everywhere you can. Be careful not to cut too short or put too much pressure on the fittings with sharp bends - this can dislodge tubing from fittings in some cases, and it also strains the rotary seals on the fittings (and with all rotary fittings, rotate it as little as possible to prolong it's lifespan).


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Unless you want coolant leaking all over, I would definitely suggest removing the unit (and buying many rolls of paper towels). You'll likely need to top up the coolant a bit. distilled or de-ionized water should be fine.
> 
> Also, a tip for disassembling a filled system; get some gloves and as soon as you remove the first tube - plug one or both of the ends with your thumb(s). It will reduce coolant leakage. Even better if you can wedge a plug in there quickly. Be aware of gravity too, to reduce leaking. The radiator/reservoir will likely want to push the coolant in one direction.
> 
> Edit: I have done this procedure with a system still installed, but it still makes a mess. If you don't intend to remove it, then place paper towels, plates, and/or bowls everywhere you can.


Allright, great, thanks. I'll remove the whole unit and will need some water you mentioned. So after removing the first tube, should I take of my thumbs and leak all water into the sink? Should the resevoir be filled at the same place as dye could be put in? Could it be filled, without pumping meanwhile, just fill 100%? Then place it back into the case?

Something about the dye: could I put the (included) Mayhem dye in there after replacing the watertubes are done? There was some kinda discussion over here, about dye.. durability / potential 'damage' Too me that is too much technical informations at the moment. Before starting all this, I would like to order some new fittings too. Because of this, I got some time to gather more information.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, *restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps*.
> 
> 
> 
> Thnx for that tip!
Click to expand...

?

it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump

the rest of the components do not matter,

i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )

again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one

i like it for looks ( the one i linked )


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?
> 
> it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump
> 
> the rest of the components do not matter,
> 
> i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )
> 
> again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one
> 
> i like it for looks ( the one i linked )


That filter does look nice. I'm not going for a permanent installation, just something for very temporary use during a cleaning cycle. I've got various bits of aquatic foam filter on hand like this...

https://www.google.com/search?q=fluval+blue+foam&biw=1473&bih=1268&tbm=isch&imgil=Yv_h6d1KLYty1M%253A%253BMwZVnq1hV5ydZM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.fluvalaquatics.com%25252Fca%25252Fproduct%25252FA236-106206-filter-bio-foam%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Yv_h6d1KLYty1M%253A%252CMwZVnq1hV5ydZM%252C_&usg=__K-XaFEa16gyeGaKihgTkwqaP1cc%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiKyMO2q5zLAhUO8mMKHVXwD0MQyjcIKQ&ei=VOTTVorOOI7kjwPV4L-YBA#imgrc=_

If it's looks straightforward enough, i'll try to put something in the line for the 12 hour cleaner run. I'll have a better idea of what's practical when i take it apart enough to replace the window. If it's not real easy, i'll skip it.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Allright, great, thanks. I'll remove the whole unit and will need some water you mentioned. So after removing the first tube, should I take of my thumbs and leak all water into the sink? Should the resevoir be filled at the same place as dye could be put in? Could it be filled, without pumping meanwhile, just fill 100%? Then place it back into the case?
> 
> Something about the dye: could I put the (included) Mayhem dye in there after replacing the watertubes are done? There was some kinda discussion over here, about dye.. durability / potential 'damage' Too me that is too much technical informations at the moment. Before starting all this, I would like to order some new fittings too. Because of this, I got some time to gather more information.


well, I would try and preserve as much original coolant as you can unless you're intending on disassembling the entire thing, draining, and replacing with a coolant of some sort.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?
> 
> it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump
> 
> the rest of the components do not matter,


agreed res>pump always, but I was talking about a second spare reservoir I had laying around which i re-purposed with a filter sponge so my loop temporarily had two reservoirs. merely an example, the same could be done with any in-line filter. sorry for any confusion or misinformation this may have caused anyone. and I also agree I wouldn't run a filter full-time, but it can be useful initially when the loop is new or had it's coolant changed/flushed recently.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?
> 
> it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump
> 
> the rest of the components do not matter,
> 
> i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )
> 
> again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one
> 
> i like it for looks ( the one i linked )


Pumps push better than they pull, simple as that. But for an inline filter in a system for cleaning makes little difference if it is before or after the pump unless is is a very restrictive filter, like a automotive oil filter.

Someone comments that loop order doesn't make any difference. Will it may only be a few degrees, it does make a difference. Coolant temp after radiator is lower than before. If it is not the radiator is not doing what it is supposed to do. And the cooler the coolant in the component block is the more heat it can draw from component. Fact is most loops keep components at a low enough temp the difference between radiator intake and exhaust isn't enough to be concerned about. 40c or 45c make little difference, even 40c to 50c isn't a mote.


----------



## t1337dude

Does anyone know if I can fit the H220 X2 onto an ASRock X99E-ITX? I hear it might need something particular for the mounting but I'm not quite sure what that would be. If so...I think I might go with another 5820k in my HTPC (just like my desktop) instead of a 6600K or 6700K.


----------



## Imprezzion

How long can I run the H320 on pure distilled water? I use the standard battery refill water from the local car shop and wondering how long it can run without refreshing the fluid.

The stock fluid that was in it started to break down after like 2 years and temps went up fast.
I had to clean everything because there was plasticizer and other gunk built up all over the CPU blocks channels and in the pump too.

Everythings clean now and temps are back to normal with the distilled water but as it isn't demineralized it's not free of calcium and such..


----------



## orbitalwalsh

All running , and can barely hear any sound from the Pump when leak testing, really thought I would hear some but none running at full wack.
Not sure if this is due to two extremely restrictive GPX blocks but they are cooling extremely well and Helix fans do a bang up job, running at 60% speed via CAM for CPU temp of 50c with 40% for idle 25c temp. Took a bit of testing with fan speeds to supply a good airflow to CPU, not heat up to much and remain quite. GPUs remain at 40c max when 100% but with a low CPU usage which is perfect.




really wish I knew about the X2 sooner or even that it was released sooner in EU/UK


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can fit the H220 X2 onto an ASRock X99E-ITX? I hear it might need something particular for the mounting but I'm not quite sure what that would be. If so...I think I might go with another 5820k in my HTPC (just like my desktop) instead of a 6600K or 6700K.


The Asrock X99E-iTX uses a narrow server style 2011 v3 block. You need something like this for mounting a waterblock. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/mounting-plate-supremacy-lga-2011-narrow-ilm

I was unable to find a mounting kit from Swiftech, in fact any other waterblock other than the EK.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> How long can I run the H320 on pure distilled water? I use the standard battery refill water from the local car shop and wondering how long it can run without refreshing the fluid.
> 
> The stock fluid that was in it started to break down after like 2 years and temps went up fast.
> I had to clean everything because there was plasticizer and other gunk built up all over the CPU blocks channels and in the pump too.
> 
> Everythings clean now and temps are back to normal with the distilled water but as it isn't demineralized it's not free of calcium and such..


you'll get 10 different answers on that one, but.. most common is at least add a couple drops of PT Nuke for biocide. personally I had run distilled+biocide for awhile but I had added another radiator and introduced chrome plated fittings to the loop so I began to see corrosion. if the water you're using is distilled it shouldn't have much (any?) minerals in it, but I'm not sure. depends on the distillation process. you can get calcium and other deposit buildup if it isn't pure enough. personally I haven't seen any breakdown of mayhems XT-1 concentrate - but I use de-ionized water with it (which is also distilled/demineralized). concentrates won't help if your main water source is bad though.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> How long can I run the H320 on pure distilled water? I use the standard battery refill water from the local car shop and wondering how long it can run without refreshing the fluid.
> 
> The stock fluid that was in it started to break down after like 2 years and temps went up fast.
> I had to clean everything because there was plasticizer and other gunk built up all over the CPU blocks channels and in the pump too.
> 
> Everythings clean now and temps are back to normal with the distilled water but as it isn't demineralized it's not free of calcium and such..


How did you clean the cpu block and the pump? Did you have to open them up? Or you just flush them with distilled water and Vinegar?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?
> 
> it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump
> 
> the rest of the components do not matter,
> 
> i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )
> 
> again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one
> 
> i like it for looks ( the one i linked )
> 
> 
> 
> Pumps push better than they pull, simple as that. But for an inline filter in a system for cleaning makes little difference if it is before or after the pump unless is is a very restrictive filter, like a automotive oil filter.
> 
> Someone comments that loop order doesn't make any difference. Will it may only be a few degrees, it does make a difference. Coolant temp after radiator is lower than before. If it is not the radiator is not doing what it is supposed to do. And the cooler the coolant in the component block is the more heat it can draw from component. Fact is most loops keep components at a low enough temp the difference between radiator intake and exhaust isn't enough to be concerned about. 40c or 45c make little difference, even 40c to 50c isn't a mote.
Click to expand...

Here is no push or pull, it is a loop. If you are pumping from "a" to "b" it is a bit different but generally people still want to filter the water.

It does not matter where you put it. Note loop order doesn't really help, iirc Martin tested it but I could be wrong, if you would like I can look for the article when I get home

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> How long can I run the H320 on pure distilled water? I use the standard battery refill water from the local car shop and wondering how long it can run without refreshing the fluid.
> 
> The stock fluid that was in it started to break down after like 2 years and temps went up fast.
> I had to clean everything because there was plasticizer and other gunk built up all over the CPU blocks channels and in the pump too.
> 
> Everythings clean now and temps are back to normal with the distilled water but as it isn't demineralized it's not free of calcium and such..
> 
> 
> 
> you'll get 10 different answers on that one, but.. most common is at least add a couple drops of PT Nuke for biocide. personally I had run distilled+biocide for awhile but I had added another radiator and introduced chrome plated fittings to the loop so I began to see corrosion. if the water you're using is distilled it shouldn't have much (any?) minerals in it, but I'm not sure. depends on the distillation process. you can get calcium and other deposit buildup if it isn't pure enough. personally I haven't seen any breakdown of mayhems XT-1 concentrate - but I use de-ionized water with it (which is also distilled/demineralized). concentrates won't help if your main water source is bad though.
Click to expand...

As stated above the big issue is bacteria growth, you need some forms of biocides. You can push at least 2 years, moat like to drain and refill at least 1 per year, some do 2 years. Personal pref


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Here is no push or pull, it is a loop. If you are pumping from "a" to "b" it is a bit different but generally people still want to filter the water.
> 
> It does not matter where you put it. Note loop order doesn't really help, iirc Martin tested it but I could be wrong, if you would like I can look for the article when I get home


While a loop has less resistance than pumping over long distances, there is still resistance. A good example of loops with pump 'pushing' is the cooling systems on engines.


----------



## ghostrider85

Is this a crack? Near the top led inside the res. NEVERMIND, JUST A REFLECTION.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> All running , and can barely hear any sound from the Pump when leak testing, really thought I would hear some but none running at full wack.
> Not sure if this is due to two extremely restrictive GPX blocks but they are cooling extremely well and Helix fans do a bang up job, running at 60% speed via CAM for CPU temp of 50c with 40% for idle 25c temp. Took a bit of testing with fan speeds to supply a good airflow to CPU, not heat up to much and remain quite. GPUs remain at 40c max when 100% but with a low CPU usage which is perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really wish I knew about the X2 sooner or even that it was released sooner in EU/UK


Where did you manage to find it in EU/UK ? I`ve been lookin around and I cant find one for the life of me, one shop has it listed but stock is supposed to arrive end of march, can you lead me in the right direction, the shop has 240 x2/prestige in stock, but im interested in the 320x2


----------



## reptileexperts

Short video showing the prestige edition connectors and showing the new block. No colors have been added, and the pump is set on red. This is the h220 x2 prestige edition.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Here is no push or pull, it is a loop. If you are pumping from "a" to "b" it is a bit different but generally people still want to filter the water.
> 
> It does not matter where you put it. Note loop order doesn't really help, iirc Martin tested it but I could be wrong, if you would like I can look for the article when I get home
> 
> 
> 
> While a loop has less resistance than pumping over long distances, there is still resistance. A good example of loops with pump 'pushing' is the cooling systems on engines.
Click to expand...

ok, ill make it simple.

Please show me in EACH of these simple illustration of a loop EXACTLY where "push" becomes pull, then, so i am not said to be setting you up, when done explain how the fluid arriving at that point looses its velocity going forward ( being pushed ) and is magically "pulled"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









as to loop order there is an abundant of contrary evidence

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?225485-Test-Report-Loop-Order-does-it-make-a-difference

http://www.overclockers.com/beginners-guide-water-cooling/

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?119699-The-Beginners-Watercooling-FAQ

IIRC @Martinm210 did mention it, but i cant find it ( loop order makes no difference, with the exception of res before pump )


----------



## michael-ocn

Do these pumps run fast enough for cavitation to become an issue?


----------



## Mega Man

i have never seen it being an issue on these pumps.


----------



## Nitemare3219

Purchased a H320 X2 Prestige from Newegg... should be here this week. Read about a month and a half back in this thread, a lot of good info, but not a lot of info on the new units.

Previously used (and currently using, but returning it) Corsair CLC's, namely an H100i for a 4770K, but just upgraded my system to a 5390K and decided I wanted a better, bigger cooler. Grabbed a H110i GT while I was at it. My CPU is at 4.5GHz at slightly under 1.3V, but my block LEDs are flickering, and I just discovered these AIO's, so I'm going to return the 110i and use the better option. Some reviews I saw showed the two were inline performance wise, but with the 110i GT being much louder. I still believe that might only be the case with smaller CPU's and/or lower OC's - the Swiftech should be capable of cooling much better.

Anyway, I'm pretty excited as this is a closer step to a custom loop - something I've always wanted to do, but never had the guts to do it. My two TITAN X's are using EVGA's CLC and they work "great" coming from an air cooler - max temps are about 48 degrees at 1.5GHz. I'm plenty happy with the CLC's on the GPU's, so my plan is to keep the Swiftech sealed out of the box... we'll see if I stick with it, but if I do, I am praying/hoping that the product page claims of "requires no maintenance during its 3 year warranty period" and taken even a step further, "The large coolant reserve prolongs operations without maintenance well beyond the 3 year product warranty."

How accurate are those claims? I don't even want to put dye in the loop if I can help it. I have zero desire to really foray into a full custom loop given what I am working with right now, so keeping this kit working at 100% is my concern. Many posts recommend cleaning the loop and refilling within 2 years - if this is true, why is Swiftech basically guaranteeing their kits well beyond this? If it does get gunked up within the warranty period, do they expect me to clean it with some kit they send me? I certainly hope not... that's the entire reason I originally went with a CLC - maintenance free.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare3219*
> 
> Purchased a H320 X2 Prestige from Newegg... should be here this week. Read about a month and a half back in this thread, a lot of good info, but not a lot of info on the new units.
> 
> Previously used (and currently using, but returning it) Corsair CLC's, namely an H100i for a 4770K, but just upgraded my system to a 5390K and decided I wanted a better, bigger cooler. Grabbed a H110i GT while I was at it. My CPU is at 4.5GHz at slightly under 1.3V, but my block LEDs are flickering, and I just discovered these AIO's, so I'm going to return the 110i and use the better option. Some reviews I saw showed the two were inline performance wise, but with the 110i GT being much louder. I still believe that might only be the case with smaller CPU's and/or lower OC's - *the Swiftech should be capable of cooling much better*.
> 
> Anyway, I'm pretty excited as this is a closer step to a custom loop - something I've always wanted to do, but never had the guts to do it. My two TITAN X's are using EVGA's CLC and they work "great" coming from an air cooler - max temps are about 48 degrees at 1.5GHz. I'm plenty happy with the CLC's on the GPU's, so my plan is to keep the Swiftech sealed out of the box... we'll see if I stick with it, but if I do, I am praying/hoping that the product page claims of "requires no maintenance during its 3 year warranty period" and taken even a step further, "The large coolant reserve prolongs operations without maintenance well beyond the 3 year product warranty."
> 
> How accurate are those claims? I don't even want to put dye in the loop if I can help it. I have zero desire to really foray into a full custom loop given what I am working with right now, so keeping this kit working at 100% is my concern. Many posts recommend cleaning the loop and refilling within 2 years - if this is true, why is Swiftech basically guaranteeing their kits well beyond this? If it does get gunked up within the warranty period, *do they expect me to clean it with some kit they send me*? I certainly hope not... that's the entire reason I originally went with a CLC - maintenance free.


Absolutely, especially a 320, that's a lot of radiator space. You should be able to keep it on the quiet side since you're only cooling a single device.

About maintenance free operation... I'm expecting a repair kit to remedy a cracked reservoir window on an older unit with the boxy res. It was my preference to go that route rather than send it in for repair or ask to swap it out. They are turn key systems you just plug in and use like a CLC, but they also are maintainable and tinkerable and fixable. My PC is a hobby so being able to work on it is a feature for me. I'm looking forward to dabbling in flushing and refilling the thing.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Where did you manage to find it in EU/UK ? I`ve been lookin around and I cant find one for the life of me, one shop has it listed but stock is supposed to arrive end of march, can you lead me in the right direction, the shop has 240 x2/prestige in stock, but im interested in the 320x2


http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h240x2-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html?sl=EN

hope this helps

http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h320x2-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


----------



## outofmyheadyo

That's the store I was talkin about







no 320 x2 stock


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How did you clean the cpu block and the pump? Did you have to open them up? Or you just flush them with distilled water and Vinegar?


I had to open up the CPU block. It was full of green gunk and the cooling channels got completely clogged up.

Pic of the block after opening it:


I saw 100c+ load temps and terrible noise.

My own fault, i mean, i never maintained it to begin with.. Just bolted it in, thought about adding a universal GPU block to the loop, decided against it as I change GPU like every 1-2 months..







and left it like that for 2 years..

But yeah, I couldn't really get anything better on such short notice to use as liquid so i chose to just use the battery filling water (which IS demineralized btw, i thought it was only distilled) and replace it later with proper fluid.

I kind of want to replace the hoses with clear ones and use a colored fluid (blue) but yeah, if i can keep running with just demiwater for a while longer.. why not. Money doesn't grow on trees here


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I had to open up the CPU block. It was full of green gunk and the cooling channels got completely clogged up.
> 
> Pic of the block after opening it:
> 
> 
> I saw 100c+ load temps and terrible noise.
> 
> My own fault, i mean, i never maintained it to begin with.. Just bolted it in, thought about adding a universal GPU block to the loop, decided against it as I change GPU like every 1-2 months..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and left it like that for 2 years..
> 
> But yeah, I couldn't really get anything better on such short notice to use as liquid so i chose to just use the battery filling water (which IS demineralized btw, i thought it was only distilled) and replace it later with proper fluid.
> 
> I kind of want to replace the hoses with clear ones and use a colored fluid (blue) but yeah, if i can keep running with just demiwater for a while longer.. why not. Money doesn't grow on trees here


that is nasty hahah....what did you clean up the block with? Just Vinegar and distilled water? or did u buy what?


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> that is nasty hahah....how long u been using it before u clean it up?


Roughly 2 years.
3770K delidded @ 4.95Ghz 1.448v at 60-65c game load and 75-80c full stress.
It ran PWM with the pump idling at 40% and going up to 100% above 55c so under any game load pretty much.
Benched it quite hard as well from time to time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, ill make it simple.
> 
> Please show me in EACH of these simple illustration of a loop EXACTLY where "push" becomes pull, then, so i am not said to be setting you up, when done explain how the fluid arriving at that point looses its velocity going forward ( being pushed ) and is magically "pulled"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as to loop order there is an abundant of contrary evidence
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?225485-Test-Report-Loop-Order-does-it-make-a-difference
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/beginners-guide-water-cooling/
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?119699-The-Beginners-Watercooling-FAQ
> 
> IIRC @Martinm210 did mention it, but i cant find it ( loop order makes no difference, with the exception of res before pump )


It only take a single word "Friction"
Friction creates 'resistance'.
There is more pressure at pump discharge than at pump intake, and the greater the friction loss of the loop, the greater the difference will be.

This is not rocket science. Every water cooled engine I know of pumps water into and through the engine .. from radiator to engine, not from engine to radiator. Do you know of any engines that pull to circulate coolant through their loops?

As for 'contrary evidence', 'contrary' is the key word.
Flowing water has friction between itself and the surface it is flowing in/over. Turns in direction increase this friction and resistance. All of these things increase the difference in pressure between intake and output sides of pump in a loop. These are indisputable facts.

If you don't understand these simple things, there is no reason to have any farther discussion about them.


----------



## delpy8

Hi guys,

Does anyone know if the swiftech h320 will fit an AM3+AMD FX 8350 cpu with supplied brackets etc


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, ill make it simple.
> 
> Please show me in EACH of these simple illustration of a loop EXACTLY where "push" becomes pull, then, so i am not said to be setting you up, when done explain how the fluid arriving at that point looses its velocity going forward ( being pushed ) and is magically "pulled"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as to loop order there is an abundant of contrary evidence
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?225485-Test-Report-Loop-Order-does-it-make-a-difference
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/beginners-guide-water-cooling/
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?119699-The-Beginners-Watercooling-FAQ
> 
> IIRC @Martinm210 did mention it, but i cant find it ( loop order makes no difference, with the exception of res before pump )
> 
> 
> 
> It only take a single word "Friction"
> Friction creates 'resistance'.
> There is more pressure at pump discharge than at pump intake, and the greater the friction loss of the loop, the greater the difference will be.
> 
> This is not rocket science. Every water cooled engine I know of pumps water into and through the engine .. from radiator to engine, not from engine to radiator. Do you know of any engines that pull to circulate coolant through their loops?
> 
> As for 'contrary evidence', 'contrary' is the key word.
> Flowing water has friction between itself and the surface it is flowing in/over. Turns in direction increase this friction and resistance. All of these things increase the difference in pressure between intake and output sides of pump in a loop. These are indisputable facts.
> 
> If you don't understand these simple things, there is no reason to have any farther discussion about them.
Click to expand...

So, you are refusing to show where " push " becomes "pull" I work with sky rise building boiler and chiller loops, I understand friction

But I also understand there is no "push" no "pull" it's a loop, there is flow. Period,

I have not even added in LARGE RESERVOIRS which more negate your "push" "pull" theory as there is a large (generally) tube res directly before the pump with several inches of air, most (not all) people have the res vertical with the intake on top, discharge on bottom the water from intake is then " pushed " into the res, although the vacuum ( most don't use a pressure equalizing valve ) does help to " pull " it, most however call this flow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So, you are refusing to show where " push " becomes "pull" I work with sky rise building boiler and chiller loops, I understand friction
> 
> But I also understand there is no "push" no "pull" it's a loop, there is flow. Period,
> 
> .


Only if there is no friction involved.
I'll not reply on this again. Have a good day.


----------



## ronaldoz

You all got these watercooling sets, but what cases are you using and do you like it or not? I'm having the H440, but the airflow / cooling is not that great. I'm thinking about getting another case. Most doesn't really have a window that will show the resevoir. I think that looks cool. For example cases I find nice are Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX and the Corsair Graphite 760T. Both got a big window.


----------



## Mega Man

Case labs


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> You all got these watercooling sets, but what cases are you using and do you like it or not? I'm having the H440, but the airflow / cooling is not that great. I'm thinking about getting another case. Most doesn't really have a window that will show the resevoir. I think that looks cool. For example cases I find nice are Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX and the Corsair Graphite 760T. Both got a big window.


I have an Evolv-iTX and I am a big fan of Phanteks cases, but the Evolv ATX is not a great case for cooling. It looks great, but it has some serious restrictions on airflow. Most notably the front intake and top exhaust.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Case labs


Those are looking great and solid! Epensive tho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have an Evolv-iTX and I am a big fan of Phanteks cases, but the Evolv ATX is not a great case for cooling. It looks great, but it has some serious restrictions on airflow. Most notably the front intake and top exhaust.


Yes, I was thinking about that. So actually the airflow is not great. My current case got the same issue. Most cases I see, got closed front and top, at least the one with big windows in them. Maybe the Corsair Graphite 760T will be fine then..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Those are looking great and solid! Epensive tho.
> Yes, I was thinking about that. So actually the airflow is not great. My current case got the same issue. Most cases I see, got closed front and top, at least the one with big windows in them. Maybe the Corsair Graphite 760T will be fine then..


If you are going that route, the Phanteks Pro M is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX with less airflow restriction - much better design and build than a 760T. Or, you could go bigger with the Enthoo Luxe or Pro. The 760T (or any Corsair case) doesn't come close to them.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you are going that route, the Phanteks Pro M is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX with less airflow restriction - much better design and build than a 760T. Or, you could go bigger with the Enthoo Luxe or Pro. The 760T (or any Corsair case) doesn't come close to them.


Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.


The Pro M supports 280mm on top with no issue.

Of course the 760T is the most expensive - you need to pay sailboat tariff. Corsair cases are typically 30-50% higher than comparable models. Simple rule of thumb, if a Corsair case is selling for $150, you can likely get a much nicer case for $99.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Pro M supports 280mm on top with no issue.
> 
> Of course the 760T is the most expensive - you need to pay sailboat tariff. Corsair cases are typically 30-50% higher than comparable models. Simple rule of thumb, if a Corsair case is selling for $150, you can likely get a much nicer case for $99.


Thanks! I guess the Pro M is the best option for me. Also: I don't need much space, just space for a big graphic card and 280mm radiator and some extra space for watercooling expansion (for cooling the GPU). This Pro M version got a bigger window I guess:


----------



## jincuteguy

So what do i need to clean and flush my H240-X? Ppl dont recommend vinegar cause of acrylic plastic part in the loop? Then what do i clean them with? Thx


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So what do i need to clean and flush my H240-X? Ppl dont recommend vinegar cause of acrylic plastic part in the loop? Then what do i clean them with? Thx


depends on dirty your loop is. if you're just changing coolant and it hasn't been running that long, running distilled through it a few times should be sufficient otherwise I guess look for some sort of loop cleaning kit which is safe for Acrylic. Personally I dislike those full-loop flush kits. they can never equal a full disassembly and cleaning. I also don't believe the full-loop cleaning kits are aggressive enough on radiators. it also cycles gunk around which could get trapped in tiny areas (unless you filter it). sorry, just voicing my personal opinions here - I've never used a full loop cleaning kit, and from what I've read; most of them are just marketing BS and don't do very much.

Edit: it may, however, help clean out any residual old coolant or flux/tin that may have been left in the radiator still. (my H240-X radiator was extremely dirty, and I can hear a piece of metal rattle around when I tilt it, but I no longer use it since I replaced every part except the Apogee XL over time and much cost).

if you're experienced in water cooling and intend on doing a full manual cleaning, the reservoir/pump can be removed with 2 screws near the fillport and a few under the reservoir, IIRC. I didn't need to break any warranty seals when doing this, as the pump was still attached to the reservoir. be careful of the O-Ring inbetween reservoir and radiator. after that, you can do the usual hot water/vinegar cleaning method for radiators, or a cleaning kit. the waterblock can be disassembled with screws on the bottom, but be careful of the large O-Ring on the outermost edge, and the small O-Ring that sits on top of the fins in the middle. you can then scrub with a toothbrush and some diluted vinegar or other acidic cleaner. careful not to strip the screws when reassembling the waterblock. the tubing can be cleaned with the old coathanger and wet cloth method if there's a noticeable buildup of stuff inside.

Edit2: Also, I definitely don't recommend this, but... it is possible to use these radiators as a standalone with separate pump and reservoir (the pump in these units will work with a MCP50x top, as they're nearly identical except for max rpm. you'll of course void any and all warranties if you can even obtain a MCP50x top to use on the MCP30). I had to plug the reservoir intake and converted the fillport to the inlet. eventually I replaced it though since it was far too dirty and had debris stuck in it I couldn't get out.


optionally the reservoir holding metal can be removed with a dremel if your case is a tight fit:

warranty definitely voided


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> depends on dirty your loop is. if you're just changing coolant and it hasn't been running that long, running distilled through it a few times should be sufficient otherwise I guess look for some sort of loop cleaning kit which is safe for Acrylic. Personally I dislike those full-loop flush kits. they can never equal a full disassembly and cleaning. I also don't believe the full-loop cleaning kits are aggressive enough on radiators. it also cycles gunk around which could get trapped in tiny areas (unless you filter it). sorry, just voicing my personal opinions here - I've never used a full loop cleaning kit, and from what I've read; most of them are just marketing BS and don't do very much.
> 
> Edit: it may, however, help clean out any residual old coolant or flux/tin that may have been left in the radiator still. (my H240-X radiator was extremely dirty, and I can hear a piece of metal rattle around when I tilt it, but I no longer use it since I replaced every part except the Apogee XL over time and much cost).
> 
> if you're experienced in water cooling and intend on doing a full manual cleaning, the reservoir/pump can be removed with 2 screws near the fillport and a few under the reservoir, IIRC. I didn't need to break any warranty seals when doing this, as the pump was still attached to the reservoir. be careful of the O-Ring inbetween reservoir and radiator. after that, you can do the usual hot water/vinegar cleaning method for radiators, or a cleaning kit. the waterblock can be disassembled with screws on the bottom, but be careful of the large O-Ring on the outermost edge, and the small O-Ring that sits on top of the fins in the middle. you can then scrub with a toothbrush and some diluted vinegar or other acidic cleaner. careful not to strip the screws when reassembling the waterblock. the tubing can be cleaned with the old coathanger and wet cloth method if there's a noticeable buildup of stuff inside.
> 
> Edit2: Also, I definitely don't recommend this, but... it is possible to use these radiators as a standalone with separate pump and reservoir (the pump in these units will work with a MCP50x top, as they're nearly identical except for max rpm. you'll of course void any and all warranties if you can even obtain a MCP50x top to use on the MCP30). I had to plug the reservoir intake and converted the fillport to the inlet. eventually I replaced it though since it was far too dirty and had debris stuck in it I couldn't get out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> optionally the reservoir holding metal can be removed with a dremel if your case is a tight fit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> warranty definitely voided


I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?


I have a spare psu from and a 10+ year old pc that i'll be using to run the pump outside of the case. It doesn't have sata cables coming out of it, but i have a molex to sata power adapter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?


Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/

Or simply pick up a PSU jump plug since every liquid cooling user should have one, as you will need it for filling, bleeding and leak testing - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Yes, I was thinking about that. So actually the airflow is not great. My current case got the same issue. Most cases I see, got closed front and top, at least the one with big windows in them. Maybe the Corsair Graphite 760T will be fine then..


On the evolvATX, if you prop the bottom of front panel open a little, airflow thru the front is not an issue. Also spacers can be added to the mounting hardware to give the front a little more breathing room. Still, I think the 760t probably has better airflow of the two, but i really like the looks of the evolv.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/
> 
> Or simply pick up a *PSU jump plug* since every liquid cooling user should have one, as you will need it for filling, bleeding and leak testing - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper


You probably have one at home somewhere, another name for it is "paperclip"


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/
> 
> Or simply pick up a PSU jump plug - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper


Easy enough! My PSU came with a jump plug and I also have a decent spare PSU (in another unused for now PC (my old core 2 quad)) that will handle the job just fine. I could easily just run a tube between the outlet and inlet port...

Though come to think of it I will be also running some of the primochill sys prep through the system to make sure it is clean.

On that note I need a good idea on what to use for the fill and drain ports. For the fill port I am thinking of using a little bit of tubing and a simple cut off valve that doesn't take up to much space. Any suggestions?

For the drain valve I will need what I think is called an inline t-connection that I can place at the lowest connection. Come to think of it, even then I will have to pull it out of the case to twist and turn to drain it completely... I just can't seem to find an easy way to do all of this!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Easy enough! My PSU came with a jump plug and I also have a decent spare PSU (in another unused for now PC (my old core 2 quad)) that will handle the job just fine. I could easily just run a tube between the outlet and inlet port...
> 
> Though come to think of it I will be also running some of the primochill sys prep through the system to make sure it is clean.
> 
> On that note I need a good idea on what to use for the fill and drain ports. For the fill port I am thinking of using a little bit of tubing and a simple cut off valve that doesn't take up to much space. Any suggestions?
> 
> For the drain valve I will need what I think is called an inline t-connection that I can place at the lowest connection. Come to think of it, even then I will have to pull it out of the case to twist and turn to drain it completely... I just can't seem to find an easy way to do all of this!


I'm definitely removing mine from the case to work on it. I might even install a spare cooler till i'm done. For draining and filling I'll be using a funnel a short tube and a barb fitting. I'll attach the barb fitting + short tube to the fill port of the rad and drain fill thru that.


----------



## DarthPeanut

Anyone tried an H320x2 in a NZXT H440 or H450 case yet?

I currently have a Corsair 600T but also have a NZXT H450 (same chassis as the H440) and I am migrating my setup into it for better radiator/ water cooling support.

I have an H220x expanded with another 220 rad from Swiftech but I am considering the H320x2 expanded with the 220 rad for my setup in the new NZXT case. Have yet to see these in that case when I search though so I just am curious.

It will be cooling my i5 4690k @ 4.7ghz and a 980ti.


----------



## Mega Man

a few minor additions
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?
> 
> 
> 
> Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/
> 
> Or simply pick up a PSU jump plug since every liquid cooling user should have one, as you will need it for filling, bleeding and leak testing - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper
Click to expand...

while you can do this and as mentioned paperclips works very well !

i advise against using a psu inside your pc.

while you CAN, can does not make it a good idea ! if you do the above * and i have * you still have power to your SSDs and fans ( also for long term leak tests recommend at least 1 fan on to remove any heat buildup in your loop ) which can be devastating ! even more so then loosing a mobo/cpu, data is not replaceable ! so if you do the above make sure your psu is ABOVE your rads / other water things in your loop and remove all other plugs ( with exception of 1 fan ) ! just my








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/
> 
> Or simply pick up a PSU jump plug - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper
> 
> 
> 
> Easy enough! My PSU came with a jump plug and I also have a decent spare PSU (in another unused for now PC (my old core 2 quad)) that will handle the job just fine. I could easily just run a tube between the outlet and inlet port...
> 
> Though come to think of it I will be also running some of the primochill sys prep through the system to make sure it is clean.
> 
> On that note I need a good idea on what to use for the fill and drain ports. For the fill port I am thinking of using a little bit of tubing and a simple cut off valve that doesn't take up to much space. Any suggestions?
> 
> For the drain valve I will need what I think is called an inline t-connection that I can place at the lowest connection. Come to think of it, even then I will have to pull it out of the case to twist and turn to drain it completely... I just can't seem to find an easy way to do all of this!
Click to expand...

you can use alot ! if you have a multi port rads you can position them at the top / bottom of the loop, you can easily use them to fill/drain but you dont have to use a tee port, you can use many kinds of ports, just get a few extra plugs, " q " "t" "x" ect !


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> On that note I need a good idea on what to use for the fill and drain ports. For the fill port I am thinking of using a little bit of tubing and a simple cut off valve that doesn't take up to much space. Any suggestions?
> 
> For the drain valve I will need what I think is called an inline t-connection that I can place at the lowest connection. Come to think of it, even then I will have to pull it out of the case to twist and turn to drain it completely... I just can't seem to find an easy way to do all of this!


Even with a drainport it'll be difficult to fully drain, I've noticed gravity works against us on the H240-X radiators. and in general with custom loops you usually need multiple valves to let air into various places to displace the coolant, but for doing partial flushes it could be useful. just remember every fitting you add is another potential point of failure (and leak).

As for fillport, there's a large selection, any tubing with a plug or barb+plug should work - but be aware of the narrow thread depth on the H240-X fillport, most fittings will obstruct coolant flow if permanently installed there. Koolance fittings seem to have a narrower thread depth I noticed (4mm vs 5mm i believe), and their quality seems to have improved drastically compared to the garbage they used to sell. I've had decent luck using these Swivel Angled Barb's (though you'll need an appropriately sized clamp, they come with 1/2") and also these Swiveling Angle Fitting's. They are very low profile and seem comparable to the EK and Bitspower fittings I use too. they haven't leaked even with much abuse, only downside is the paint scratches easily. Alternatively, I noticed Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings screw down a bit shallower too due to the thick O-Ring. They could also work on the fillport. Not sure about their angled fittings though.

Edit: and to elaborate a bit more; what I meant by a large selection - there's drain/fill ports designed to be screwed into a case, and then just standalone ones which just plug a tube basically. they range anywhere from cheap POM/plastic barb type to metal ones. then there's also valve-style ones but I don't have any experience using them - but I often see them on other rigs, usually strategically placed in-line for air displacement to aid the filling/draining/bleeding process. On my custom loop I'm using a Bitspower Sealing Plug - 3/8" - Black Matte Finish on my pump's alternate intake port as a drainport, but it could be used with a T fitting or T-block of some sort. It's basically a 3/8" barb with a female G1/4 at the other end with a low profile bitspower plug (tubing clamp not included). there's definitely cheaper options though.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Even with a drainport it'll be difficult to fully drain, I've noticed gravity works against us on the H240-X radiators. and in general with custom loops you usually need multiple valves to let air into various places to displace the coolant, but for doing partial flushes it could be useful. just remember every fitting you add is another potential point of failure (and leak).
> 
> As for fillport, there's a large selection, any tubing with a plug or barb+plug should work - but be aware of the narrow thread depth on the H240-X fillport, most fittings will obstruct coolant flow if permanently installed there. Koolance fittings seem to have a narrower thread depth I noticed (4mm vs 5mm i believe), and their quality seems to have improved drastically compared to the garbage they used to sell. I've had decent luck using these Swivel Angled Barb's (though you'll need an appropriately sized clamp, they come with 1/2") and also these Swiveling Angle Fitting's. They are very low profile and seem comparable to the EK and Bitspower fittings I use too. they haven't leaked even with much abuse, only downside is the paint scratches easily. Alternatively, I noticed Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings screw down a bit shallower too due to the thick O-Ring. They could also work on the fillport. Not sure about their angled fittings though.
> 
> Edit: and to elaborate a bit more; what I meant by a large selection - there's drain/fill ports designed to be screwed into a case, and then just standalone ones which just plug a tube basically. they range anywhere from cheap POM/plastic barb type to metal ones. then there's also valve-style ones but I don't have any experience using them - but I often see them on other rigs, usually strategically placed in-line for air displacement to aid the filling/draining/bleeding process. On my custom loop I'm using a Bitspower Sealing Plug - 3/8" - Black Matte Finish on my pump's alternate intake port as a drainport, but it could be used with a T fitting or T-block of some sort. It's basically a 3/8" barb with a female G1/4 at the other end with a low profile bitspower plug (tubing clamp not included). there's definitely cheaper options though.


I have (or will soon have) the fittings to go into this loop. I ordered the phobya angled compression fittings (4 of the 90 deg and 4 of the 45 deg) plus I have 4 XPSC compression fittings. So fittings is not the issue. What I need now is a decent fill/drain plug. Or do you just recommend the Bitspower sealing plug? I was thinking more along the lines of a valve that I could open and close but I am not sure that will work well.
From what I am gathering is there is no straight forward way. Right now I am thinking of the best way to do these without making it any more cluttered or messy in the case. I'd prefer something that was more aesthetically pleasing and not just a valve hanging off on the highest and lowest parts of the loop.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Could anyone from swiftech explain what`s going on with the nonexistant stock in european stores, with the "new" x2 coolers ? They have been out for a while now, and still no stock, limited production capacities, and europe being the place that gets whatever is left from US ?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Could anyone from swiftech explain what`s going on with the nonexistant stock in european stores, with the "new" x2 coolers ? They have been out for a while now, and still no stock, limited production capacities, and europe being the place that gets whatever is left from US ?


Swiftech don't even have them in stock on their own webstore. I think they stopped getting more cause the sales are started to go slower now.


----------



## missalaire

I hope they're working on fixing what's wrong with their initial batch of new coolers. I received a leaking H240 X2 Prestige from Newegg and there seem to be a lot of complaints in general with these new coolers regarding leaks or pump failure.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Swiftech don't even have them in stock on their own webstore. I think they stopped getting more cause the sales are started to go slower now.


Actually.....they don't have them because sales are greater than production capabilities.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.....they don't have them because sales are greater than production capabilities.


this you guys are thinking swiftech is a large company like corsair I'm not 100 percent sure if their size but I'd bet it's less than 50....


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Could anyone from swiftech explain what`s going on with the nonexistant stock in european stores, with the "new" x2 coolers ? They have been out for a while now, and still no stock, limited production capacities, and europe being the place that gets whatever is left from US ?


Highflow.nl got them in stock now..
http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h240x2-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


----------



## v1ral

I may havr a stupid question but here it goes.
Can i put a T fitting to act as a little res?
Something similar to how we use it wiyh a stand alone out with out a dedicated res, ive used this method whrn i first started a loop with a D5 pump a few years back.
Air gets trapped in the res no matter what i do, i can use a 90° fitting at the fill port like i did before expandjng my h220x, but my 360mm radiator is quite close.
This is my set up atm.

I was thinking about putting my fans in the outside of my case to give the port room, but id have to figure a way to filter it from dust e.g buy extra crap.

Is this even worth doing JUST to make it easier to bleed and fill?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I may havr a stupid question but here it goes.
> Can i put a T fitting to act as a little res?
> Something similar to how we use it wiyh a stand alone out with out a dedicated res, ive used this method whrn i first started a loop with a D5 pump a few years back.
> Air gets trapped in the res no matter what i do, i can use a 90° fitting at the fill port like i did before expandjng my h220x, but my 360mm radiator is quite close.
> This is my set up atm.
> 
> I was thinking about putting my fans in the outside of my case to give the port room, but id have to figure a way to filter it from dust e.g buy extra crap.
> 
> Is this even worth doing JUST to make it easier to bleed and fill?


they sell dust filters that fit on fans


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Highflow.nl got them in stock now..
> http://www.highflow.nl/watercooling-sets/cpu-sets/swiftech-h240x2-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


They had 240x2 stock for a while now, but I am not interested in x2, I want the triple.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> They had 240x2 stock for a while now, but I am not interested in x2, I want the triple.


Do you mean the H320X2? I don't think there is a X3 yet? 2 Weeks ago, the H240X2 was not in stock, but after ordening it was on stock after 3 days.


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *missalaire*
> 
> I hope they're working on fixing what's wrong with their initial batch of new coolers. I received a leaking H240 X2 Prestige from Newegg and there seem to be a lot of complaints in general with these new coolers regarding leaks or pump failure.


Where are all the complaints? I have had no issues with my first batch H220x2 prestige edition . . . ordered through performance-pcs when they first came in stock.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> Where are all the complaints? I have had no issues with my first batch H220x2 prestige edition . . . ordered through performance-pcs when they first came in stock.


There are a few NewEgg reviews that site shipping damage, "it doesn't fit in my case" and mostly EBKAM....but what would you expect from NewEgg? They aren't a liquid cooling vendor. The reviews all essentially read as "I have never used liquid cooling and don't know how it works" ("there were bubbles in it when I got it".....wow, shocker). If there were actual issues, odds are good you would have heard them here first.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Do you mean the H320X2? I don't think there is a X3 yet? 2 Weeks ago, the H240X2 was not in stock, but after ordening it was on stock after 3 days.


I believe he is talking about the 320-X2 and it's triple fans. where the 240-X2 has dual fans.


----------



## bmt22033

I think the answer is yes but can anyone just confirm for me that the H240 X2 should fit in a Phanteks Evolv ATX? Thanks!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I think the answer is yes but can anyone just confirm for me that the H240 X2 should fit in a Phanteks Evolv ATX? Thanks!


Yes, very nicely, I have an h240x in mine, x2 is the same size afaik.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yes, very nicely, I have an h240x in mine, x2 is the same size afaik.


Exactly the same as far as mounting in the Evolv ATX.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all I need some help in getting the last few parts for my waterloop.

First off I will be using my H240-X for this loop (still debating on the 320-X2 Prestige).
The last things I need are ideas for fill and drain ports. I need some kind of shut off valve that I can connect (via short piece of hose) to the fill pot and I need some kind of t-connector with a shut off valve for the drain at the bottom of the loop. I have been looking and I can't seem to find what I am looking for.
At first I was thinking of this Darkside shutoff valve at the top but it seems bulky and may add be a little heavy for the top. Note that I would be using a funnel with this valve.

Anyhow I need suggestions on what to use. I'd like to keep the cost down as much as possible but I do have a little money to spend, so not so low as to suffer in quality or be to bulky.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Regarding the LED control on the new units, has anyone found a switch that can plug in or something to that effect on the controller so we don't have push the button on the splitter. I am going to look more at the NZXT Hue + and see if that will somehow work.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Regarding the LED control on the new units, has anyone found a switch that can plug in or something to that effect on the controller so we don't have push the button on the splitter. I am going to look more at the NZXT Hue + and see if that will somehow work.


you can use the readily available reset switch of you PC case, or any momentary switch will do, there is a hookup on the hub for plugging switches.


----------



## t1337dude

Based on what I've been reading about some people's experience with the H220 X2, I'm a little afraid. Seems like many people are running into issues with their splitter. I know I would probably be fine with an H220 X but I'm not quite sure if the weird orientation in the Corsair 250D case would cause problems (like someone had issues with a bubble getting trapped in their pump?).


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> you can use the readily available reset switch of you PC case, or any momentary switch will do, there is a hookup on the hub for plugging switches.


That's a great idea, honestly didn't think on that lol

Rep inbound.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Based on what I've been reading about some people's experience with the H220 X2, I'm a little afraid. Seems like many people are running into issues with their splitter. I know I would probably be fine with an H220 X but I'm not quite sure if the weird orientation in the Corsair 250D case would cause problems (like someone had issues with a bubble getting trapped in their pump?).


Yeah they have a recall with the splitter due to weak solders but they already revised it, if you buy now you will most likely get the one with revised splitter, but if you do get the old splitter they will replace it at no cost.

TLDR: don't worry about the splitter, swiftech got your back.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dango*
> 
> Nice, build! By the way, have you test the unit yet? We have some issue with the old version of the splitter that you had, the solder join was too weak and may easy come off, cause ALED not working correctly and/or pump not working. We have update to rev2 splitter, so all current units should have rev 2 in the box.
> More information and instruction on how to get rev2 splitter on this page: http://www.swiftech.com/technicalbulletin2-9-16.aspx


Quoted for the revision 2 splitter


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> Where are all the complaints? I have had no issues with my first batch H220x2 prestige edition . . . ordered through performance-pcs when they first came in stock.


Mostly Newegg, I read through them and most of the bad reviews seem to be regarding leaks and bad pumps or something being DOA. I know someone else here in this thread besides myself had commented about getting a leaking unit also.


----------



## sankohuy

Hello everyone. I'm new to water cooling and I have a few question in needing you guys' expertise. I have H220X2 PRESTIGE that I just bought. However I would like to replace the flexible tubing that it came with with a hard tubing. I don't know where to start. Anyone know what size tubing I need and any new fittings I need to buy? What are the size of the fittings? Basically, anyone know what do I need to swap in the hard tubes? Thanks. BTW, sorry for my poor English.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> Quoted for the revision 2 splitter


Thanks







Put my worries to rest.

Is there anything downgraded about the X2 (like the fittings) or is it all an upgrade from the old X model?


----------



## ronaldoz

Does anyone got pictures how this sets look like in a 540 Air White? The case is a bit 'small, but got a nice / big window.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Mines in silver 540, I'll take a pic tonight, fits in wonderfully.


----------



## Nephurus

Ordered the 2220 x2 pres from the egg, hope i dont get screwed .


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephurus*
> 
> Ordered the 2220 x2 pres from the egg, hope i dont get screwed .


What you mean screwed? somethng wrong with these new Swiftech X2 or somoething?


----------



## Nephurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What you mean screwed? somethng wrong with these new Swiftech X2 or somoething?


A few reviews of doa's and such . me being overly paranoid really .


----------



## Scrimstar

will a 320x2 Prestige or 240x2 Prestige perform better at 40db? Swiftechs benches say they perform the same.

240x2 has more static pressure, specs are louder, but only 10 cfm less

http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab3
http://www.swiftech.com/h240x2prestige.aspx#tab3


----------



## Kutalion

As i have both 140mm and 120mm eloops, i can tell you 140mm are louder because they are much stronger and push very good amount of air.

So i'd say 320 would be more silent. Especially if you keep fans up to 1200RPM where eloops are really really quiet.


----------



## ronaldoz

Mine H240X2 is leaking a bit. It must be the resevoir I guess. There are some waterdrops at the bottom of my case, and the pump is above the GPU already. Because of this, it could only be a 'little' leak at the far side of radiator / resevoir or the watertube at the backside. That is also a part were it feels more hot. Yesterday I've sent a mail to the Swiftech support.


----------



## mcnumpty23

5 months and my h240-x pump has just stopped running an hour ago

whats the RMA procedure if you replaced the stock tubing? and stock fluid?

do you have to put the original tubing back on? assuming i can even find that

and hope its not bacata still dealing with uk replacements they were awful when my old h320 went wrong--it was only bryan who kept me sane

throughout all that carry on


----------



## Madmaxneo

So in all of this and my dilema with adding my MB to my loop I am deciding to go with a separate rad and pump for my MB. I am thinking of upgrading my CPU to the H320-X2 Prestige and using my current H240-X for the MB part. I have two questions on this.
1. Would it be better to go with the H240-X2 since it is only for the CPU? Currently with my H240-X I get up in the high 50's when pushing this chip according to Real Temp.
2. I have been hearing problems/issues with the new X2 line with leaks and what not, should I wait?


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> will a 320x2 Prestige or 240x2 Prestige perform better at 40db? Swiftechs benches say they perform the same.
> 
> 240x2 has more static pressure, specs are louder, but only 10 cfm less
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab3
> http://www.swiftech.com/h240x2prestige.aspx#tab3


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> As i have both 140mm and 120mm eloops, i can tell you 140mm are louder because they are much stronger and push very good amount of air.
> 
> So i'd say 320 would be more silent. Especially if you keep fans up to 1200RPM where eloops are really really quiet.


cool, i'm gonna get a phantek ethnoo luxe so it should fit easily. $15 is totally worth more quiet and and another fan


----------



## TheCowTamer

Hello guys. First off I own a swiftech h240-x. Been doing very well cooling my 4790k at 4.9ghz at 1.35v, running intel burn test highest I've seen is 79 C. I am thinking about expanding it to include my XFX 390x. I'm wondering if I should add a 140mm rad or a 360mm. My case is a Corsair air 540. Also how would the flow rate and head pressure handle an additional rad and Gpu block. Thanks guys just looking for some insight.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCowTamer*
> 
> Hello guys. First off I own a swiftech h240-x. Been doing very well cooling my 4790k at 4.9ghz at 1.35v, running intel burn test highest I've seen is 79 C. I am thinking about expanding it to include my XFX 390x. I'm wondering if I should add a 140mm rad or a 360mm. My case is a Corsair air 540. Also how would the flow rate and head pressure handle an additional rad and Gpu block. Thanks guys just looking for some insight.


You already have a decent OC on your cpu and AMD cards are known for running warm. I would recommend at least a 240mm or 360mm radiator. The included pump can handle the addition with no problem.


----------



## TheCowTamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You already have a decent OC on your cpu and AMD cards are known for running warm. I would recommend at least a 240mm or 360mm radiator. The included pump can handle the addition with no problem.


Thats what I figured. I was hoping to be able to leave the front just as intake and have rads on my exhaust but I will just have to such it up and throw a 360 up in the front. Thanks for your opinion.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCowTamer*
> 
> Thats what I figured. I was hoping to be able to leave the front just as intake and have rads on my exhaust but I will just have to such it up and throw a 360 up in the front. Thanks for your opinion.


I have a H220-X on a 4690k and GTX 970, I started with an additional 120mm radiator at the back as exhaust. I switched to a 240mm radiator at the front as intake. I lowered my load temps on both cpu and gpu by 5C.


----------



## TheCowTamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a H220-X on a 4690k and GTX 970, I started with an additional 120mm radiator at the back as exhaust. I switched to a 240mm radiator at the front as intake. I lowered my load temps on both cpu and gpu by 5C.


The only reason I was thinking that 3 140mm rad would be enough was because 3 140mm rads have a surface area of 58,800mm and 4 120mm rads have a surface area of 57,600mm so in theory as long as the rads are the same thickness, the 140s should have the edge by a slight amount, Idk if this is the correct or not.


----------



## Bruticis

I'm just wondering if the direction I mounted my radiator for my H320 X2 Prestige is going to cause any issues down the line. The tubing is forced in a slightly unnatural direction and I don't know if over time this will cause extra stress on any of the joints or fittings.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> 5 months and my h240-x pump has just stopped running an hour ago
> 
> whats the RMA procedure if you replaced the stock tubing? and stock fluid?
> 
> do you have to put the original tubing back on? assuming i can even find that
> 
> and hope its not bacata still dealing with uk replacements they were awful when my old h320 went wrong--it was only bryan who kept me sane
> 
> throughout all that carry on


You don't need to send the whole loop in. (at least I've never had to for OG h220). I would assume that if its a pump malfunction, the steps is basically to drain and go through the RMA process. With the X units, pump repair is a matter of just replacing the pump. You send in your broken one(or they just send you a working one) and go through their process of learning how to remove the pump from the unit and replacing it(its pretty easy, easier IMO then putting on the cpu block.)


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> You don't need to send the whole loop in. (at least I've never had to for OG h220). I would assume that if its a pump malfunction, the steps is basically to drain and go through the RMA process. With the X units, pump repair is a matter of just replacing the pump. You send in your broken one(or they just send you a working one) and go through their process of learning how to remove the pump from the unit and replacing it(its pretty easy, easier IMO then putting on the cpu block.)


hope its that simple --with my h320 and bacata it was horrendous it must have taken over 2 months in the end up and it was only with bryans help i finally got it replaced he was the only good point in the whole affair---though i think hes left now which is a shame as he was an outstanding asset to the company


----------



## ronaldoz

Just check my H240X2 again, and the water resevoir is leaking a bit. So I guess I have to send it back for RMA.

Update:
Highflow tells Swiftech doesn't allow any sells of the H240X2 Prestige product, due the problem I got got as well. But it's not a well known issue for the normal edition.
Quote:


> "One of our untrained workers over-tightened the two screws that hold the reservoir to the radiator, causing the brass inserts in the reservoir to crack the acrylic due to excessive stress to the insert. This crack occurs over time, and is also very difficult to see as it is small, and mostly hidden behind the radiator metal shield that holds the reservoir, reason why these were not be detected in QC."


----------



## mcnumpty23

ok so this is weird

i thought my pump had stopped as temperatures especially the gpu went right up--but bios is reporting pump rpms

so tonight took the side off my case and this is what i see in my reservoir?

any ideas whats occuring?

obviously looks like i will have to drain it all down and flush it out but wondered if any one knew what causes this?

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/DSC_0185_zpssajje9ih.jpg.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> ok so this is weird
> 
> i thought my pump had stopped as temperatures especially the gpu went right up--but bios is reporting pump rpms
> 
> so tonight took the side off my case and this is what i see in my reservoir?
> 
> any ideas whats occuring?
> 
> obviously looks like i will have to drain it all down and flush it out but wondered if any one knew what causes this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/DSC_0185_zpssajje9ih.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's weird. But looks like fish eggs! Did you happen to use a tiny drop of dish soap in your loop?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's weird. But looks like fish eggs! Did you happen to use a tiny drop of dish soap in your loop?


there shouldn't be that kind of air space if the top is the return...something isn't right here...how long did you run it? Did you bleed it properly? With it setup that way your res should always be full...or very close to it...give us a shot of the whole loop please


----------



## ghostrider85

that's kinda scary


----------



## michael-ocn

Beware the creature from the (reddish) black lagoon! Did you put more than a drop of dish soap in


----------



## v1ral

I have a question for the people to switched to hard line tubing on the H220X.

1. When using the adapter fitting for the H220X and without using an 90/45 degree fitting how tight of a bend were you able to acheive?
2. On the g1/4 threaded side of the unit, again without using an angled fitting how tight were the bends you were able to make, was it 90 degree bend or?

I am trying to figure out how I should go about changing to hardline PETG tubing and I am concerned about the two ports on the unit.


This is my Rig at the moment with soft tubing.
Thoughts and suggestions?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's weird. But looks like fish eggs! Did you happen to use a tiny drop of dish soap in your loop?


only 1 drop--but that was weeks ago--i know fairy lasts longer lol but not that long


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there shouldn't be that kind of air space if the top is the return...something isn't right here...how long did you run it? Did you bleed it properly? With it setup that way your res should always be full...or very close to it...give us a shot of the whole loop please


it was full up i siphoned a bit out before taking that shot as couldnt tell how fast it was returning to the reservoir with it full up

will get pic of the whole loop shortly


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there shouldn't be that kind of air space if the top is the return...something isn't right here...how long did you run it? Did you bleed it properly? With it setup that way your res should always be full...or very close to it...give us a shot of the whole loop please


heres loop sorry for bad quality only a phone photo--this is from when i put it all together

the tubing leaving the bottom of the reservoir and going right goes to my back up mcp355 pump which is basically doing all the work if i turn that off the flow drops to tiny amount--flow is clock wise so top of res is intake return--should say it was working fine for a couple of months before this happened

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/Screenshot_2_zpsmlkd8edx.png.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> heres loop sorry for bad quality only a phone photo--this is from when i put it all together
> 
> the tubing leaving the bottom of the reservoir and going right goes to my back up mcp355 pump which is basically doing all the work if i turn that off the flow drops to tiny amount--flow is clock wise so top of res is intake return--should say it was working fine for a couple of months before this happened


I am totally clueless as to what is going on here. Are you trying to feed the H220-X pump intake from the top of the reservoir?


----------



## Mega Man

Looks that way


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Looks that way


I'm baffled......so the second pump is pumping into the res? If that is the case, I'm surprised it's flowing any liquid at all.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am totally clueless as to what is going on here. Are you trying to feed the H220-X pump intake from the top of the reservoir?


no i wasnt-i intended to move the coolant in a clock wise direction

are you saying i have the pump intake and outlet the wrong way round?


----------



## delpy8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> ok so this is weird
> 
> i thought my pump had stopped as temperatures especially the gpu went right up--but bios is reporting pump rpms
> 
> so tonight took the side off my case and this is what i see in my reservoir?
> 
> any ideas whats occuring?
> 
> obviously looks like i will have to drain it all down and flush it out but wondered if any one knew what causes this?
> 
> http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/DSC_0185_zpssajje9ih.jpg.html


The bottom picture looks like bubble wrap EEK I would get that system flushed right out ASAP with no soap


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> no i wasnt-i intended to move the coolant in a clock wise direction
> 
> are you saying i have the pump intake and outlet the wrong way round?


I don't know.....because I have no idea what loop order you are trying to run with this. By simply looking at it, I can't find anything close to s sensible order.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@mcnumpty23 From what you have mentioned I understand that your loop is going clockwise. The only thing I can say at this point is to drain and refill the loop and see how it goes. Are you using a straight dye or is it a concentrate mixture? I have been told of various issues people have with using dyes but I have not seen anything like this. I am staying away from dyes and such for now.
Regardless that looks like a combination of dish soap and air in your loop. I am now curious to see what the fluid looks like when you drain it.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm baffled......so the second pump is pumping into the res? If that is the case, I'm surprised it's flowing any liquid at all.


no the second pump is pumping into the radiator on the bottom

then out the radiator into the res on the left

out the res on the left to the gpu

out the gpu to the cpu

out the cpu to the h240-x

out the h240-x to the top of the res on the right

out the bottom of res on right to second pump


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @mcnumpty23 From what you have mentioned I understand that your loop is going clockwise. The only thing I can say at this point is to drain and refill the loop and see how it goes. Are you using a straight dye or is it a concentrate mixture? I have been told of various issues people have with using dyes but I have not seen anything like this. I am staying away from dyes and such for now.
> Regardless that looks like a combination of dish soap and air in your loop. I am now curious to see what the fluid looks like when you drain it.


it was clear with mayhems deep red concentrate added


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> it was clear with mayhems deep red concentrate added


Mayhems is quoted as the best out there. It is still strange.

It would be awesome if you can get some pics of the fluid after you drain it.


----------



## mcnumpty23

heres the flow--the only way the flow could be wrong is if i got the intake and outlet wrong at the h240-x

the second pump is to the right out of sight

and the intake to the bottom rad isnt visible its where the arrow is so the red pipe from bottom rad to left res is the out from that rad

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/flow_zpsuqroh9zr.png.html


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Mayhems is quoted as the best out there. It is still strange.
> 
> It would be awesome if you can get some pics of the fluid after you drain it.


yeah can do once i drain it all

just getting confused now all these people saying my flow cant work


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> yeah can do once i drain it all
> 
> just getting confused now all these people saying my flow cant work


Now that I see it, it can "work", but you are effectively only using the second pump, and having that pumping into a res in the middle of components likely isn't helping your flow. You are kind of shooting yourself in the foot with three reservoirs, and two of them breaking the one and only rule of loop order - which is that the res always comes directly before the pump.

But, the big question is what is causing the aeration in your loop. Given the bubbles, it would appear that the H220-X pump is churning air as well as liquid, but I am sure you would notice if the liquid level of the H220-X reservoir is low. That would be the most likely scenario....but if that res isn't low, I am totally at a loss.


----------



## mcnumpty23

i can do a bit of re-routing

the h240-x res is full

but the big question is have i got the inlet and outlet on the h240-x pump the wrong way round?

that might cause bubbles if its sending fluid the opposite way from the second pump as would be turbulence where the flows met

the second pump is running faster as its just molex no speed control whereas the h240-x is set to minimum

so could it be i have in/out the wrong way on the h240-x pump but because the second pump is more powerful the coolant is still going in a clockwise direction?

which would be why its still cooling and i can see coolant entering the res on the right below the h240-x


----------



## blackend

HI

After shipping my swiftech H320X2 from USA to UAE

See





after hearing a lot bad review from newegg and it happened to me


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> i can do a bit of re-routing
> 
> the h240-x res is full
> 
> but the big question is have i got the inlet and outlet on the h240-x pump the wrong way round?


The outlet fitting is physically located on the pump, while the inlet fitting is connected to the radiator.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The outlet fitting is physically located on the pump, while the inlet fitting is connected to the radiator.


DOH--- think i have them the wrong way round


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> DOH--- think i have them the wrong way round


well there you go...your pumps are working against each other that's why you are getting the bubbles tbh you are lucky you didn't dry lock one of them....if you hadn't had it full enough you would have done this very easily when you turned the second pump on







the out of the x should be going to the top of the cylinder res and then pulled through to compcomplete your clockwise route


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm hoping to receive an h240x res window from swiftech this week, mine has a crack in it and is slowly losing water. I've been putting off toping it off and waiting to just fix it, but I'm not sure i can put that off much longer. The air buldge is getting pretty big...

Couple weeks ago:


Yesterday:


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm hoping to receive an h240x res window from swiftech this week, mine has a crack in it and is slowly losing water. I've been putting off toping it off and waiting to just fix it, but I'm not sure i can put that off much longer. The air buldge is getting pretty big...
> 
> Couple weeks ago:
> 
> 
> Yesterday:


whatever you do keep the res full...I've been doing this for awhile now and its time to replace mine too...if you run the pump dry it will die a horrible death


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> HI
> 
> After shipping my swiftech H320X2 from USA to UAE
> 
> See
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after hearing a lot bad review from newegg and it happened to me


If it's just a broken fitting then you can easily replace that.


----------



## mcnumpty23

thanks for the help earlier folks will read back and give rep

swapped in/out around now and flow has increased

though didnt cure the bubbles--guess a full drain and flush is in order--though not tonight

almost sure its the red dye though dont know why it would cause that--but when i turn on now can clearly see streaks of darker red as if dye settled some where and turning on moves it


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> thanks for the help earlier folks will read back and give rep
> 
> swapped in/out around now and flow has increased
> 
> though didnt cure the bubbles--guess a full drain and flush is in order--though not tonight
> 
> almost sure its the red dye though dont know why it would cause that--but when i turn on now can clearly see streaks of darker red as if dye settled some where and turning on moves it


The bubbles should clear themselves up, give it a day.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> HI
> 
> After shipping my swiftech H320X2 from USA to UAE
> 
> See
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after hearing a lot bad review from newegg and it happened to me


That sucks sorry


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> HI
> 
> After shipping my swiftech H320X2 from USA to UAE
> 
> See
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after hearing a lot bad review from newegg and it happened to me


Yep that just confirmed it with me, not gonna buy the regular model, prestige only for this guy!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackend*
> 
> HI
> 
> After shipping my swiftech H320X2 from USA to UAE
> after hearing a lot bad review from newegg and it happened to me


it takes a lot if force to break of those fittings while connected to a hose and block too...how badly damaged was the box?


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it takes a lot if force to break of those fittings while connected to a hose and block too...how badly damaged was the box?


To mw it looks like it broke due to the water freezing


----------



## jincuteguy

So the 2 x 140mm Helix fans of my H240-X that I bought about a year ago just died. I already tried all of the connectors on my motherboard. Does anyone know where and how do I claim the warranty with Swiftech to get the fan replacements? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So the 2 x 140mm Helix fans of my H240-X that I bought about a year ago just died. I already tried all of the connectors on my motherboard. Does anyone know where and how do I claim the warranty with Swiftech to get the fan replacements? Any help would be appreciated.


Support links are right on the swiftech.com site.....


----------



## Scrimstar

Shouldn't a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe fit a h320x2 Prestige on top? This guy said it didn't, and I wonder if anyone else has experience

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R26DRO2XE4GJ8I?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R17T7XZMPN5DKK?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl

heres a video with 360 loop on top


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Support links are right on the swiftech.com site.....


Yea but I still have to email them, they don't have anything to claim the warranty like a form or something. I either have to call them up or email them.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea but I still have to email them, they don't have anything to claim the warranty like a form or something. I either have to call them up or email them.


Pm @Dango so he can help you with your problem. He is swiftech's rep here. Hope that helps


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Pm @Dango so he can help you with your problem. He is swiftech's rep here. Hope that helps


Thx man, I just sent him a PM


----------



## dVeLoPe

anyone got picture of Rampage V Extreme in a Corsair AIR 540 with the H240-X????


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am getting ready to flush my loop and change out the tubing for some blue UV tubing, I figured during that process I could change out the window of my H240-H.

Does anyone have any last minute pointers or warnings before I do this especially in conjunction with replacing the window?


----------



## jincuteguy

So what do u guys think I should go for? A 420m Rad /w 140m fans or a 360m Rad /w 120m fans? I know that 120m fans have higher static pressure compare to 140m fans.
That is why imconfused whether to use a 420m Rad or 360m Rad.

And also, what is the best 140m fan with high static pressure now on the market? Or are 140m fans still lacking in static pressure compare to 120m fans? thx.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So the 2 x 140mm Helix fans of my H240-X that I bought about a year ago just died. I already tried all of the connectors on my motherboard. Does anyone know where and how do I claim the warranty with Swiftech to get the fan replacements? Any help would be appreciated.


Obviously email them and get them to send you an rma number -_-


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Shouldn't a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe fit a h320x2 Prestige on top? This guy said it didn't, and I wonder if anyone else has experience
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R26DRO2XE4GJ8I?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R17T7XZMPN5DKK?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
> 
> heres a video with 360 loop on top


It will fit-_- , you can fit 60mm rad in the luxe .if you wanted too, he might mean you might not be able to see the complete reservoir due to the window and shell


----------



## t1337dude

Losing my patience quickly with the mounting system on the H220 X2. The backplate will not come free from the waterblock. Spent an hour on the first step of the instructions and it just isn't working out. Seems like the nuts on the waterblock are way too loose and the washers on the backplate are too tight and won't come off. Why couldn't they just include the backplate in a separate baggy or something? My fingers are nearly bleeding attempting to get this apart.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Losing my patience quickly with the mounting system on the H220 X2. The backplate will not come free from the waterblock. Spent an hour on the first step of the instructions and it just isn't working out. Seems like the nuts on the waterblock are way too loose and the washers on the backplate are too tight and won't come off. Why couldn't they just include the backplate in a separate baggy or something? My fingers are nearly bleeding attempting to get this apart.


Yea the mounting system from these Swiftech AIo is really pain to install, I wished they would use the mounting system like the EK Sup EVO block, where you have 4 stands screw down to the 4 socket holes, then 4 big thumb nuts to screw on top.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea the mounting system from these Swiftech AIo is really pain to install, I wished they would use the mounting system like the EK Sup EVO block, where you have 4 stands screw down to the 4 socket holes, then 4 big thumb nuts to screw on top.


Never had the pleasure of working with EK unfortunately. Had to borrow dad's tool kit because what I have is only really basic screwdrivers. Anyways, I used pliers to hold the nuts that were stuck to the backplate in place while I unscrewed it from the waterblock. So all is well now.

Unfortunately I wasn't aware I needed to install the backplate into my ITX build before installing the mobo. So far this build has been a lot of trial and error. Working in a very tight space too. Wasn't sure if the H220 X2 was going to fit for a moment









Also - I noticed the fans are screwed into the H220 X2 in a weird way? How the heck do I unscrew the fans from the radiator?


----------



## Madmaxneo

It seems Swiftech is not the easiest to work with. For those that remember I am working on adding to my loop but I decided to go with separate loops for all the components. Well today I started with my H240-X. For one I needed to clean it out and I am adding some UV tubing and a better cooling fluid. I also wanted to change out the clear window on the AIO. If it wasn't for the fact that I was changing out the window I would not in any way have been able to install the Swiftech adapter for 1/4" fittings. The instructions actually tell you to insert the screw driver at an angle then straighten it out and the screw driver shaft will bend slightly.... That was not working out real well so I decided on just using the fitting that came with the unit. Luckily I was also replacing the window and removing the pump unit made installing the adapter so much easier. I noticed something when I removed the AIO from my PC, there were two pretty large air bubbles in the system. after putting the unit back together with the new tubing and my first time filling it was interesting. After going through the process of filling and moving the unit around a few times I noticed a medium bubble still in the system. I added a little bit of water though it didn't seem like even half enough but I have not seen any bubbles.

Right now I have the AIO partially installed but not connected to the cpu and I have power only going to the AIO just to run it for a few hours to check for leaks, not to mention I am also running sysprep in the loop. I know it says to run the system for 12 hrs but I don't want to be without my PC for that long, so I hope 4 will do. My tablet just doesn't cut it for all that I need to do.

I also still have to install the UV LED's so it might be a little longer than 4 hrs. Surprisingly there are no leaks so far.


----------



## jincuteguy

Ok nvm, the guy just contacted me through email.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It seems Swiftech is not the easiest to work with. For those that remember I am working on adding to my loop but I decided to go with separate loops for all the components. Well today I started with my H240-X. For one I needed to clean it out and I am adding some UV tubing and a better cooling fluid. I also wanted to change out the clear window on the AIO. If it wasn't for the fact that I was changing out the window I would not in any way have been able to install the Swiftech adapter for 1/4" fittings. The instructions actually tell you to insert the screw driver at an angle then straighten it out and the screw driver shaft will bend slightly.... That was not working out real well so I decided on just using the fitting that came with the unit. Luckily I was also replacing the window and removing the pump unit made installing the adapter so much easier. I noticed something when I removed the AIO from my PC, there were two pretty large air bubbles in the system. after putting the unit back together with the new tubing and my first time filling it was interesting. After going through the process of filling and moving the unit around a few times I noticed a medium bubble still in the system. I added a little bit of water though it didn't seem like even half enough but I have not seen any bubbles.
> 
> Right now I have the AIO partially installed but not connected to the cpu and I have power only going to the AIO just to run it for a few hours to check for leaks, not to mention I am also running sysprep in the loop. I know it says to run the system for 12 hrs but I don't want to be without my PC for that long, so I hope 4 will do. My tablet just doesn't cut it for all that I need to do.
> 
> I also still have to install the UV LED's so it might be a little longer than 4 hrs. Surprisingly there are no leaks so far.


Did the sysprep clean much stuff out or was is pretty clean to start with? Are you happy with the results on yours?

I'm still waiting for my replacement window, but they tell me it should have shipped either yesterday or will ship out today. I'm going to have to top it off with distilled water this weekend since the water level has gotten too low to wait any longer. But next week or weekend i'll be repairing, flushing w sysprep, and refilling.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Did the sysprep clean much stuff out or was is pretty clean to start with? Are you happy with the results on yours?
> 
> I'm still waiting for my replacement window, but they tell me it should have shipped either yesterday or will ship out today. I'm going to have to top it off with distilled water this weekend since the water level has gotten too low to wait any longer. But next week or weekend i'll be repairing, flushing w sysprep, and refilling.


I haven't had the H240-X for long but it did seem kind a bit cloudy and there were some minor debris in the cleaning solution.
The bad thing is after flushing with sysprep then adding my regular fluid the loop started to get suds in it. So I drained and refilled and cleaned out all the tubing like two or three times. I had to had my concentrate mix twice. My system seems to be running about 6 to 8 deg cooler on normal use. Right now my average core temp is about 30 deg C. FYI, I have my CPU OC'd to 4.3 ghz. I did the Intel Burn test and my core temps never got over 67 deg C.
I still have these micro bubbles in my loop and they do not seem to be moving much.

The thing that annoyed me the most in doing this was the way the fill/Drain port sits. It is not perfect alignment with the reservoir as it sits 50% off center. I think if it would have been centered it would have been easier to drain and fill......
FYI, this is the first time I have done this so I have nothing to compare it to.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I haven't had the H240-X for long but it did seem kind a bit cloudy and there were some minor debris in the cleaning solution.
> The bad thing is after flushing with sysprep then adding my regular fluid the loop started to get suds in it. So I drained and refilled and cleaned out all the tubing like two or three times. I had to had my concentrate mix twice. My system seems to be running about 6 to 8 deg cooler on normal use. Right now my average core temp is about 30 deg C. FYI, I have my CPU OC'd to 4.3 ghz. I did the Intel Burn test and my core temps never got over 67 deg C.
> I still have these micro bubbles in my loop and they do not seem to be moving much.
> 
> The thing that annoyed me the most in doing this was the way the fill/Drain port sits. It is not perfect alignment with the reservoir as it sits 50% off center. I think if it would have been centered it would have been easier to drain and fill......
> FYI, this is the first time I have done this so I have nothing to compare it to.


OK,so I need flush the prep out with distilled water before refilling. Nice that u have such lower temps, did u expand the loop?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> OK,so I need flush the prep out with distilled water before refilling. Nice that u have such lower temps, did u expand the loop?


Well the sysprep directions says that all you need to do is drain the sysprep and you can add your coolant. They say flushing after running sysprep is not needed but I did not feel comfortable with what was going on in the loop.
I didn't expand the loop as I plan on keeping 3 different loops between the CPU, MB, and my GPU. That will make it easier for maintenance amongst other things.


----------



## t1337dude

Does anyone know what sort of specific screw-driver I need to buy to unscrew the fans from the H220 X2? They're obviously require a Phillips but I can't find any that has a shaft thin enough to fit through the fan's screw holes. Looked at a dozen ones I have and they're all too thick to fit through :\ Tried looking around for something that specifically has a thin shaft and I'm not seeing anything.

Edit: Nevermind, ordering a kit like this. I guess they made it extra hard to switch out the fans on the X2 so people are incentivized to buy the Prestige edition?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Does anyone know what sort of specific screw-driver I need to buy to unscrew the fans from the H220 X2? They're obviously require a Phillips but I can't find any that has a shaft thin enough to fit through the fan's screw holes. Looked at a dozen ones I have and they're all too thick to fit through :\ Tried looking around for something that specifically has a thin shaft and I'm not seeing anything.
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, ordering a kit like this. I guess they made it extra hard to switch out the fans on the X2 so people are incentivized to buy the Prestige edition?


That is pretty typical fan mounting procedure. A simple precision screwdriver kit is pretty much essential if you are going to be working on your rig, really a necessary $10 investment - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is pretty typical fan mounting procedure. A simple precision screwdriver kit is pretty much essential if you are going to be working on your rig, really a necessary $10 investment - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/


Certainly wasn't necessary with the H240-X or any other fans that I've ever used or seen before. Seems more like a tool-kit that I'd be buying specifically for the Swiftech H240 X2 and then I'm never going to find a use for it again


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is pretty typical fan mounting procedure. A simple precision screwdriver kit is pretty much essential if you are going to be working on your rig, really a necessary $10 investment - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Certainly wasn't necessary with the H240-X or any other fans that I've ever used or seen before. Seems more like a tool-kit that I'd be buying specifically for the Swiftech H240 X2 and then I'm never going to find a use for it again


I agree that a precision screw driver set is essential when working on your PC.

On that note; I have been looking for a precision screw driver set that has magnetic tips. I purchased one from Amazon a few months back but the magnetism is not that strong, it barely holds even the tiniest screws. I have one with changeable bits but the shaft and connector is to thick for what I need it for, so yeah I need a thin shaft precision screw driver set with magnetic tips.....


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I agree that a precision screw driver set is essential when working on your PC.


Won't argue with you, it just hasn't been my experience. Worked in PC's for 13 years and haven't needed one til just now. Just curious - what else specifically have you ever needed a thin shaft precision screw driver set for?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is pretty typical fan mounting procedure. A simple precision screwdriver kit is pretty much essential if you are going to be working on your rig, really a necessary $10 investment - http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/


What's the diff between a Precision Screw Driver and a regular Screw Driver?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What's the diff between a Precision Screw Driver and a regular Screw Driver?


regular screwdrivers are usually designed with open construction in mind(e.g hinges, and exterior parts). Precision screwdrivers are better suited for smaller devices that uses screws as they tend to hide the screw deep from plain view (e.g pc parts like graphics cards, and other plastic devices like controllers, handhelds).

Depending on the situation, the shaft size of the screwdriver will not allow something to be screwed in/out due tot he actual screwdriver being too big for the intended use.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Won't argue with you, it just hasn't been my experience. Worked in PC's for 13 years and haven't needed one til just now. Just curious - what else specifically have you ever needed a thin shaft precision screw driver set for?


Thin shaft screw drivers make it easier to get into tight spaces to get to tiny screws. I have run into situations like you have with the fan and I bring to mind my recent dilemma with adding the 1/4" fitting adapter to the H240- X. A precision screwdriver isn't always needed but it does help.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well the sysprep directions says that all you need to do is drain the sysprep and you can add your coolant. They say flushing after running sysprep is not needed but I did not feel comfortable with what was going on in the loop.
> I didn't expand the loop as I plan on keeping 3 different loops between the CPU, MB, and my GPU. That will make it easier for maintenance amongst other things.


Right, i'm going to flush it out real good, fill it with pure water, run the pump for a while, drain, repeat a few times... then put the coolant in.

I pulled things apart enough to top it off since it'll be another week or so before i can do all that and I noticed some signs of the leakage. See the discolored gunkish looking screw on the right, there was some whiteish evaporated liquid residue underneath that on the floor of the case.



The screw head over there looks like it may be stripped. I wonder if that's why i've got a crack in the window, somebody was wrestling with it to get that screw down? I might be in for some unanticipated fun replacing it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Right, i'm going to flush it out real good, fill it with pure water, run the pump for a while, drain, repeat a few times... then put the coolant in.
> 
> I pulled things apart enough to top it off since it'll be another week or so before i can do all that and I noticed some signs of the leakage. See the discolored gunkish looking screw on the right, there was some whiteish evaporated liquid residue underneath that on the floor of the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screw head over there looks like it may be stripped. I wonder if that's why i've got a crack in the window, somebody was wrestling with it to get that screw down? I might be in for some unanticipated fun replacing it.


Good luck with all that....
As far as the leak goes, did it come from the factory brand new that way or has someone else worked on it in the past?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Good luck with all that....
> As far as the leak goes, did it come from the factory brand new that way or has someone else worked on it in the past?


Thnx.
It came like that from a reseller, performanc-pcs .i got it in the mail last october and have treated it carefully ever since. It's been next to my desk for months now (after spending a few days in my guest bedroom). I've been watching the water level drop for the last couple weeks, but just today noticed that screw and the whiteish residue underneath it. Here it is enjoying a cushy life on a comfy comforter in the days after i first received it...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Thnx.
> It came like that from a reseller, performanc-pcs .i got it in the mail last october and have treated it carefully ever since. It's been next to my desk for months now (after spending a few days in my guest bedroom). I've been watching the water level drop for the last couple weeks, but just today noticed that screw and the whiteish residue underneath it. Here it is enjoying a cushy life on a comfy comforter in the days after i first received it...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's getting lazy. It wants that comfy comforter back....lol


----------



## reptileexperts

Moved my rig into an Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. My swiftech was tricky to work in this case. (H220x2 prestige). I was unable to mount it on the top without hurting aesthetics too much, and mounting it with the res in front on the far right made the lines have issues with the GPUs. So I mounted it with the res facing the back and the pump facing the front and it seems to work quite well. Great thermals overall and makes the build look fantastic


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved my rig into an Enthoo Pro M Acrylic. My swiftech was tricky to work in this case. (H220x2 prestige). I was unable to mount it on the top without hurting aesthetics too much, and mounting it with the res in front on the far right made the lines have issues with the GPUs. So I mounted it with the res facing the back and the pump facing the front and it seems to work quite well. Great thermals overall and makes the build look fantastic


Long as it works, and that is a fantastic looking case.


----------



## Madmaxneo

As some here may recall I recently set out to do some changes to my H-240-X loop. This was my first time doing this. AlsoI have been having an issue with my loop. At first I was getting some great temps but then they started slowly climbing and reached a point where they were in the low 40's during idle. So I examined my loop.
The clear UV tubing had turned greenish and was not looking well. I took everything apart and flushed the system out again. I replaced the tubing and flushed it out again (Used a full gallon of distilled water flushing it out). After dealing with some problems from my goofs the system is running fine again but my temps are in the mid 30's and the cooling is not as efficient as it was. I did an intel burn test just to see how hot it would get and I hit the low 70's during the test where before I changed everything it was in the low 60's. I am going to reapply the thermal paste again to see if that helps. I had been trying different methods of applying the thermal paste and the last time I did it I felt like I was using to little, but the time before I apparently used to much.

Is there a chance the H240-X has lost some cooling efficiency in the process of all this?

What do you all think?


----------



## dVeLoPe

can anyone confirm if the 240x fits in a corsair air 540 without having to redrill the damn fan holes


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> can anyone confirm if the 240x fits in a corsair air 540 without having to redrill the damn fan holes


Can confirm it does


----------



## dVeLoPe

sorry i forgot to mention i meant as a front mount not top mount


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> As some here may recall I recently set out to do some changes to my H-240-X loop. This was my first time doing this. AlsoI have been having an issue with my loop. At first I was getting some great temps but then they started slowly climbing and reached a point where they were in the low 40's during idle. So I examined my loop.
> The clear UV tubing had turned greenish and was not looking well. I took everything apart and flushed the system out again. I replaced the tubing and flushed it out again (Used a full gallon of distilled water flushing it out). After dealing with some problems from my goofs the system is running fine again but my temps are in the mid 30's and the cooling is not as efficient as it was. I did an intel burn test just to see how hot it would get and I hit the low 70's during the test where before I changed everything it was in the low 60's. I am going to reapply the thermal paste again to see if that helps. I had been trying different methods of applying the thermal paste and the last time I did it I felt like I was using to little, but the time before I apparently used to much.
> 
> Is there a chance the H240-X has lost some cooling efficiency in the process of all this?
> 
> What do you all think?


Bump


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> sorry i forgot to mention i meant as a front mount not top mount


Yup that's what I'm saying. Easier to front mount


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Bump


You were saying that the tubing looked greenish, was there anything in the liquid when you drained? It is possible that you have some plasticizer buildup on the cold plate. That would be the only thing that could cause a loss in cooling. You may want to open the block and give it a good cleaning.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You were saying that the tubing looked greenish, was there anything in the liquid when you drained? It is possible that you have some plasticizer buildup on the cold plate. That would be the only thing that could cause a loss in cooling. You may want to open the block and give it a good cleaning.


I did. I originally rinsed with hot water then with distilled water. Then I flushed it for a few hours with sysprep. The odd thing is I have since flushed and filled it again (and replaced the tubing) and it is staying clear this time. The only thing is now it just does not seem to be as efficient as it was.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did. I originally rinsed with hot water then with distilled water. Then I flushed it for a few hours with sysprep. The odd thing is I have since flushed and filled it again (and replaced the tubing) and it is staying clear this time. The only thing is now it just does not seem to be as efficient as it was.


I am saying to actually remove the cold plate and clean it with a brush. Did you do that, or simply flush it? Flushing it will not get plasticizer out of the channels very well.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I did not know you could remove the cold plate nor that it had to be cleaned manually. This is the very first time I am hearing of this. I have heard about cleaning the tubing with pope cleaners and flushing the system out real well. I did use sysprep in the system which the directions state is all you need to do.
Now the system seems to be pretty clear. But like I said the only issue now is the efficiency seems to have gone down a little.
Oddly enough I adjusted my fan curve and ran the intel burn test again. The temps would jump between 55 to 65 on average every few seconds. When it would hit 65 the fans would go into high speed and within seconds it would drop to about 55, then a few seconds later it would go back up to 65. You could hear the fans go up and down constantly.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I did not know you could remove the cold plate nor that it had to be cleaned manually. This is the very first time I am hearing of this. I have heard about cleaning the tubing with pope cleaners and flushing the system out real well. I did use sysprep in the system which the directions state is all you need to do.
> Now the system seems to be pretty clear. But like I said the only issue now is the efficiency seems to have gone down a little.
> Oddly enough I adjusted my fan curve and ran the intel burn test again. The temps would jump between 55 to 65 on average every few seconds. When it would hit 65 the fans would go into high speed and within seconds it would drop to about 55, then a few seconds later it would go back up to 65. You could hear the fans go up and down constantly.


The plate removes with the 8 surround screws. Just be careful to tighten the screws evenly, and don't try to overtighten, and be sure the O-ring is in place when you put it back together:


Your fan curve certainly sounds like it needs some tweaking. Fan speed up and slow down should be a smooth transition.


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The plate removes with the 8 surround screws. Just be careful to tighten the screws evenly, and don't try to overtighten, and be sure the O-ring is in place when you put it back together:
> 
> 
> Your fan curve certainly sounds like it needs some tweaking. Fan speed up and slow down should be a smooth transition.


Just to add regarding the screws removal. 2 of the screws in that blocks are shorter than the rest so make sure to remember where exactly you took it from. As you dont want to have a leaking waterblock.

I found that out when i cleaned my H140x about the shorter screws. Hope that helps


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Just to add regarding the screws removal. 2 of the screws in that blocks are shorter than the rest so make sure to remember where exactly you took it from. As you dont want to have a leaking waterblock.
> 
> I found that out when i cleaned my H140x about the shorter screws. Hope that helps


Thanks I will keep that in mind if I need to change it out again anytime soon or in the future. For now it seems to be running smooth and efficient. If the loop starts to turn colors I will again tear it down and do that. But it is all a big hassle and very time consuming.


----------



## t1337dude

So I've got my H220 X2 hooked up in my PC and I realized I haven't seen any lights. Are they off by default and won't turn on until I press the button on the splitter? It's sort of hidden under a tidied nest of wires in my case so it's at the point where it's easier to ask than press it my self


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> So I've got my H220 X2 hooked up in my PC and I realized I haven't seen any lights. Are they off by default and won't turn on until I press the button on the splitter? It's sort of hidden under a tidied nest of wires in my case so it's at the point where it's easier to ask than press it my self


It should be lit by default but you can turn it off. Either you did not connect the 2 pin cables to the fan splitter where the light headers are, or your splitter is faulty. Anyway you can plug your reset button to the fan splitter and you can control the lights using the reset button.

Do you have the version 1 of the fan splitter? If you have the flat topped splitter then you have the faulty version 1, they already have the version 2 which fixed the issues.


----------



## ronaldoz

I just installed my H240x2. My first was leaking a bit water. After using this one for 3 hours, the pump died. I don't really want to believe it. Man o man. Also temps were 99C for a while.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> It should be lit by default but you can turn it off. Either you did not connect the 2 pin cables to the fan splitter where the light headers are, or your splitter is faulty. Anyway you can plug your reset button to the fan splitter and you can control the lights using the reset button.
> 
> Do you have the version 1 of the fan splitter? If you have the flat topped splitter then you have the faulty version 1, they already have the version 2 which fixed the issues.


I have the 2 fans plugged into the fan splitter, the pump, and a SATA power cable. By 2-pin cable are you referring to the pump's PWM wire or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I have the 2 fans plugged into the fan splitter, the pump, and a SATA power cable. By 2-pin cable are you referring to the pump's PWM wire or is there something I'm missing?


The 2-pin from the cpu block, and the 2-pin from the pump. There are 3 cables coming from the pump, one for power, one for pwm control, and one for the lights.


----------



## ronaldoz

On the waterblock there is a cable for the led. On the pump there is Sata / pumpcontrol / ledconnector as well. These ledconnectors got not 4, but 3 pins on the 'splitter'. This 'splitter' is powered by Sata as well.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> I just installed my H240x2. My first was leaking a bit water. After using this one for 3 hours, the pump died. I don't really want to believe it. Man o man. Also temps were 99C for a while.


Don't be surprised, that's Switch quality for ya. Wait for a Revision 2 and buy that, hopefully they fix their ****


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Don't be surprised, that's Switch quality for ya. Wait for a Revision 2 and buy that, hopefully they fix their ****


Yes, I hope they could fix it, but now I gotta go into the RMA process again. It feels like a shame. It's just new and stopped. I hope the temperature did not damage tue CPU.


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Yes, I hope they could fix it, but now I gotta go into the RMA process again. It feels like a shame. It's just new and stopped. I hope the temperature did not damage tue CPU.


If possible return it for a refund, use a stock cooler and wait for swiftech to release a second revision, it's a trend with swiftech AIOS . Usually the second time it's a hit . Or buy their products individually and custom build one


----------



## dVeLoPe

water cooling gods i have a questions

i own a h240-x and a classified 980ti with a 5820k and plans on sli

if i add a resivour, 320 rad, tubing fittings etc what else is needed plus a GPU block to redo my loop and add more potential?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> water cooling gods i have a questions
> 
> i own a h240-x and a classified 980ti with a 5820k and plans on sli
> 
> if i add a resivour, 320 rad, tubing fittings etc what else is needed plus a GPU block to redo my loop and add more potential?


you will need more coolant distilled will work fine as long as you save the coolant already in the unit as it has growth inhibitors....you will also need two gpu blocks if you go sli...If you don't plan to overclock or very mildly that should be enough to handle those without incident...I can't see your rig right now on mobile but if you're case can handle larger rad that would be the time...especially if you want to overclock everything....you shouldn't need anything else barring that...the pump will handle that fine so no worries there...depending on your case a always recommend a 90 degree fitting on the bottom card to help clear psus when you sli or cfx...I don't have one and it puts a lot of pressure on that joint to avoid the psu...I would also get a psu jump plug or fashion one from a paperclip or a small piece of wire for filling/bleeding/leak testing...be sure you get a plasticizer free tubing it will save you headache down the road they make a bunch of them primochill advanced lrt is probably the cheapest but there is neoprene and other rubber tubings as well...also I totally 100 percent recommend compression fittings over barbs...they look nicer and if installed properly they are more reliable this us why plumbing has moved to mostly compression as well...no chance of a clip falling...sure they can back off but once tightened they have to back off a lot they usually don't leak even when you remove the collar while it's running...I tested this just to see for giggles...I have barbs on my h220x and the h220 rad I have and I've had to tighten the clamps a couple of times never had to with compression fittings

Honestly selection of block and rad and proper mounting are the keys to best performance....


----------



## duckyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> water cooling gods i have a questions
> 
> i own a h240-x and a classified 980ti with a 5820k and plans on sli
> 
> if i add a resivour, 320 rad, tubing fittings etc what else is needed plus a GPU block to redo my loop and add more potential?


How long have you had the H240x? Would suggest you get stronger/ more reliable pump. Their AIOS are upgradeable but quality is complete trash. how much do you care about looks ? because you could get MCP655 or EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM to use in conjuction with mcp30. Switch AIO pumps die a lot.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> How long have you had the H240x? Would suggest you get stronger/ more reliable pump. Their AIOS are upgradeable but quality is complete trash. how much do you care about looks ? because you could get MCP655 or EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM to use in conjuction with mcp30. Switch AIO pumps die a lot.


The Mcp655 is much better than Mcp30 in the H240-x?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> How long have you had the H240x? Would suggest you get stronger/ more reliable pump. Their AIOS are upgradeable but quality is complete trash. how much do you care about looks ? because you could get MCP655 or EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM to use in conjuction with mcp30. Switch AIO pumps die a lot.


dude seriously if all you have to say is negative why are you here? I've ran mine from first run with one issue which was resolved in two days...the pump currently runs two gpus cpu and four radiators with an extra res....you realize the pump and block and even the radiator are all swiftechs regular products with the radiator being modified for pump and mini res...stop spreading misinformation please...have there been some issues lately with seals sure...is every unit affected surely not...step down off the soap box and read a little bit...the h220x got a bad rap at first guys how many units were rma'd? 5% according to brians numbers that means lets even go so far as to say done people just threw them out...another 4% on the high side..that's pretty low percentages...how bad has corsair been in the past id be willing to bet the numbers are higher


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> dude seriously if all you have to say is negative why are you here?


This.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> dude seriously if all you have to say is negative why are you here? I've ran mine from first run with one issue which was resolved in two days...the pump currently runs two gpus cpu and four radiators with an extra res....you realize the pump and block and even the radiator are all swiftechs regular products with the radiator being modified for pump and mini res...stop spreading misinformation please...have there been some issues lately with seals sure...is every unit affected surely not...step down off the soap box and read a little bit...the h220x got a bad rap at first guys how many units were rma'd? 5% according to brians numbers that means lets even go so far as to say done people just threw them out...another 4% on the high side..that's pretty low percentages...how bad has corsair been in the past id be willing to bet the numbers are higher


Here here! I agree 100%. Swiftech has been nothing but awesome in my experience. Since this was my first time attempting water cooling and I knew I would want to expand in due time the obvious choice was Swiftech, especially for the price. I have had no problems with my H240-X except for the ones I created when I changed out my loop and they are all good now. In fact I have to say that my system is back to being really efficient again. and running in the high 20's and low 30's. I have had quite a few people on here tell me, as well as read several reviews, that the the pump in my unit could handle multiple GP{U's and the cpu flawlessly (though I would need at least one more rad).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckyboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> water cooling gods i have a questions
> 
> i own a h240-x and a classified 980ti with a 5820k and plans on sli
> 
> if i add a resivour, 320 rad, tubing fittings etc what else is needed plus a GPU block to redo my loop and add more potential?
> 
> 
> 
> How long have you had the H240x? Would suggest you get stronger/ more reliable pump. Their AIOS are upgradeable but quality is complete trash. how much do you care about looks ? because you could get MCP655 or EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM to use in conjuction with mcp30. Switch AIO pumps die a lot.
Click to expand...











Yep, such trash that I have a completely stock never touched h220 (original mind you) running perfectly in one of my pcs.... yep utter trash...

Imo most of the problems are ebkac but there are several non user problems


----------



## michael-ocn

Is it ok to run the h240x pump on 7v for about 12 hours?

I'm going to clean mine out with sysprep when i replace it's busted res window. That involves running it thru the system for a while. I can run it at full speed or put a resistor in line to drop the voltage down a little. I'm just not sure how happy the pump will be with less that 12v, could the lower voltage damage the pwm controller or should it be ok?

Thnx.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I second the question above from @michael-ocn. But I also ask; Can I run my system normally (daily usage) with sysprep in it for the 12hrs it takes to clean the system?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Is it ok to run the h240x pump on 7v for about 12 hours?
> 
> I'm going to clean mine out with sysprep when i replace it's busted res window. That involves running it thru the system for a while. I can run it at full speed or put a resistor in line to drop the voltage down a little. I'm just not sure how happy the pump will be with less that 12v, could the lower voltage damage the pwm controller or should it be ok?
> 
> Thnx.


No. It isn't ok to undervolt the pump at any time. Swiftech has stated that the pump is not designed to be undervolted, and doing so can cause damage.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No. It isn't ok to undervolt the pump at any time. Swiftech has stated that the pump is not designed to be undervolted, and doing so can cause damage.


Thnx for replying, guess i'll run it at fullspeed then. It would be nice to have a pwm control signal generator with a dial to control the duty cycle, but i don't have anything like that on hand.

And now for another stupid question







Since i'm taking it out to do some work on it, is it worth taking the cpu block apart to get at the grooves in there with vinegar and a toothbrush? I've been using the cooler since last october and it works fine, but I'm wondering if there could be some bits of junk clogging up some of the water channels and if cleaning it real good might improve performance?


----------



## Mega Man

tooth brush wont get in the micro channels, compressed air or other pressure works well, i had to use nitogen @ 500psi to clean out my blocks ( regular cpui blocks ) but imo not worth taking it apart for that


----------



## RnRollie

less than 6 months... it would be exceptional if it actually needed a cleanout ... unless you had some mishap resulting in debris or you experimented with different dyes/mixtures

then again, it doesn't hurt to check... if no cleanout is needed, just re-assemble


----------



## dVeLoPe

i kno it has been asked before but i need NEW 2016 answers to thisi question

INTAKE OR EXHAUST???? have 2x swiftech helix fans currently INTAKING from the top of my case with only 1x exhaust fan i believe this is the cause for my crappy temps


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i kno it has been asked before but i need NEW 2016 answers to thisi question
> 
> INTAKE OR EXHAUST???? have 2x swiftech helix fans currently INTAKING from the top of my case with only 1x exhaust fan i believe this is the cause for my crappy temps


Your summer2015 rig with the nice nzxt case? That should be a pretty good setup, cool air feeding the rad. positive pressure in the case. Do you have other case fans on the front or bottom? What temps are crappy, cpu temps?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i kno it has been asked before but i need NEW 2016 answers to thisi question
> 
> INTAKE OR EXHAUST???? have 2x swiftech helix fans currently INTAKING from the top of my case with only 1x exhaust fan i believe this is the cause for my crappy temps


I am no expert but I will offer some insight.
Basic science tells us that heat rises so to "effectively" vent that heat out of any enclosed object you need to have out going ventilation at the top of the enclosed object. If you try and push the heat downward then it more than likely create pockets of hot air in some areas.
So I would say yes that is probably the cause of at least some of your crappy temps. If you are water cooling then I would think this would add to the amount of heat at the top....


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am no expert but I will offer some insight.
> Basic science tells us that heat rises so to "effectively" vent that heat out of any enclosed object you need to have out going ventilation at the top of the enclosed object. If you try and push the heat downward then it more than likely create pockets of hot air in some areas.
> So I would say yes that is probably the cause of at least some of your crappy temps. If you are water cooling then I would think this would add to the amount of heat at the top....


Its true that warm air rises, but the force of warm air passively rising is negligible compared to the kind of force active cooling fans apply.

Here's a possible explanation. There are mounting positions for 3x 120s in the roof. The h240x does not cover all the open space. If there is positive pressure in the case, warm air will be forced up and out thru the open space in the roof (the 980ti in there has some serious air warming power). Some of that warm air (maybe most) will be getting drawn back in by the h240x. Recycling warm air and warming it more and more.

Did you seal off the open spaces in the roof?


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i kno it has been asked before but i need NEW 2016 answers to thisi question
> 
> INTAKE OR EXHAUST???? have 2x swiftech helix fans currently INTAKING from the top of my case with only 1x exhaust fan i believe this is the cause for my crappy temps


In my previous case (phantom NZXT) I had my swiftech running as an exhaust. Temps at the lowest on the hottest core ran 29-31, 26 on coldest core. On average and maxed at 61. New case, put it in the front of the case and set the fans to intake fresh air and now my hottest core low is 25 and my coldest core 20 with an ambient in the house @ 20 C both times.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> In my previous case (phantom NZXT) I had my swiftech running as an exhaust. Temps at the lowest on the hottest core ran 29-31, 26 on coldest core. On average and maxed at 61. New case, put it in the front of the case and set the fans to intake fresh air and now my hottest core low is 25 and my coldest core 20 with an ambient in the house @ 20 C both times.


But you're not blowing warm into the case from the rad, correct? I understand your point. If you are using your rad as an intake and if the ambient temp in the space around the PC is cool then it could help keep the rad cooler thereby keeping the PC cooler. But that may not be the case with the OP.
I know the ambient temps in the room where my computer is does not help, which is why it is better for me to have my top fans as exhaust. Consequently, putting the rad for your CPU in the front of the case with the fans as intake is probably a much better idea any day that putting it on top intake or outtake.

I really think his problem is the fact that he is using his rad as intake and it is blowing warm air down into the case.


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But you're not blowing warm into the case from the rad, correct? I understand your point. If you are using your rad as an intake and if the ambient temp in the space around the PC is cool then it could help keep the rad cooler thereby keeping the PC cooler. But that may not be the case with the OP.
> I know the ambient temps in the room where my computer is does not help, which is why it is better for me to have my top fans as exhaust. Consequently, putting the rad for your CPU in the front of the case with the fans as intake is probably a much better idea any day that putting it on top intake or outtake.
> 
> I really think his problem is the fact that he is using his rad as intake and it is blowing warm air down into the case.


Right. This was just based on my experience with the question at hand.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reptileexperts*
> 
> Right. This was just based on my experience with the question at hand.


I may use your idea one day and move my rad to the front and blow air into the case. I believe I will get better temps then.


----------



## reptileexperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I may use your idea one day and move my rad to the front and blow air into the case. I believe I will get better temps then.


I did. Now that my lowest temps match my ambient temps, I'm happy. And 54 under encoding is nothing to snicker at using 4.6ghz


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> i kno it has been asked before but i need NEW 2016 answers to thisi question
> 
> INTAKE OR EXHAUST???? have 2x swiftech helix fans currently INTAKING from the top of my case with only 1x exhaust fan i believe this is the cause for my crappy temps
> 
> 
> 
> I am no expert but I will offer some insight.
> Basic science tells us that heat rises so to "effectively" vent that heat out of any enclosed object you need to have out going ventilation at the top of the enclosed object. If you try and push the heat downward then it more than likely create pockets of hot air in some areas.
> So I would say yes that is probably the cause of at least some of your crappy temps. If you are water cooling then I would think this would add to the amount of heat at the top....
Click to expand...

first heat DOES NOT rise, hot air does, but only because hot air is less dense then cold air.
that is key, it isnt the heat that causes the air to "rise" it is the less dense part,

but more over this is easily defeated by a fan
unless you are running a 100% passive system, in a pc hot air DOES NOT rise, it goes where i want it to via the fan !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am no expert but I will offer some insight.
> Basic science tells us that heat rises so to "effectively" vent that heat out of any enclosed object you need to have out going ventilation at the top of the enclosed object. If you try and push the heat downward then it more than likely create pockets of hot air in some areas.
> So I would say yes that is probably the cause of at least some of your crappy temps. If you are water cooling then I would think this would add to the amount of heat at the top....
> 
> 
> 
> Its true that warm *air* rises, _but the force of warm air passively rising is negligible compared to the kind of force active cooling fans apply._
> 
> Here's a possible explanation. There are mounting positions for 3x 120s in the roof. The h240x does not cover all the open space. If there is positive pressure in the case, warm air will be forced up and out thru the open space in the roof (the 980ti in there has some serious air warming power). Some of that warm air (maybe most) will be getting drawn back in by the h240x. Recycling warm air and warming it more and more.
> 
> Did you seal off the open spaces in the roof?
Click to expand...

very very important


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first heat DOES NOT rise, hot air does, but only because hot air is less dense then cold air.
> that is key, it isnt the heat that causes the air to "rise" it is the less dense part,
> 
> but more over this is easily defeated by a fan
> unless you are running a 100% passive system, in a pc hot air DOES NOT rise, it goes where i want it to via the fan !


I understand that it is the air to rises, it is just a term and there is nothing wrong with using "heat rises", or "warm air rises". My niece used to correct me and my mom when we would cough and say it went down the wrong pipe, I know how it works......it is just a term that I use and many other people use, much like "sweat like a pig".
That is all true, but I base my response on a house. There are some houses built with a large fan in the attic, my cousin and her family used to live in one (they may still). During the summer months they would turn that fan on and it would keep the house very cool despite the heat outside. At one point they had to have service done to the fan, whomever it was that worked on it either installed it backwards or reversed the polarity (not sure what or how this happened but the fan blew air in). This was done in the cooler months (not winter) and the house would get very warm. If not unbearably so. They had it corrected and their house was cool again. They live in Richmond, Virginia. When they had first moved into the house they didn't use the fan (I think it was the switch that was broke) they used fans and window AC's. The fans didn't work real good and it was kind of expensive having an AC in each room (they didn't want central air). I believe someone talked them into getting the fan fixed and they were surprised at how well it worked. They could have the windows open without fans in them and it would stay cool. I remember the first time I came to visit after they got the fan working. I noticed how cool the house was and the windows were open, I remarked that shouldn't they close the windows with the AC on (as I thought they finally upgraded to central air).....lol...


----------



## dVeLoPe

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853031&ignorebbr=1

what does everyone think about this???

yes i know its not related but it is aswell

i am gonna run 2x pascal cards under water when they come out and currently own a h240x

i could purchase that case for 250 to use the 360 for cpu and 240x for gpus alone

consdering buying a new case ANYWAY so this is lke a win win i believe??

if i can mount the h240x in the front and route tubing thru to gpus this would be the way i would go

as i dont think the 240x can cool my 5820k that isnt in use yet based on my i5-760 temps plus gpus


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853031&ignorebbr=1
> as i dont think the 240x can cool my 5820k that isnt in use yet based on my i5-760 temps plus gpus


A 240x can definitely keep a 5820k reasonably cool. Thats exactly what i got mine doing.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I understand that it is the air to rises, it is just a term and there is nothing wrong with using "heat rises", or "warm air rises". My niece used to correct me and my mom when we would cough and say it went down the wrong pipe, I know how it works......it is just a term that I use and many other people use, much like "sweat like a pig".
> That is all true, but I base my response on a house. There are some houses built with a large fan in the attic, my cousin and her family used to live in one (they may still). During the summer months they would turn that fan on and it would keep the house very cool despite the heat outside. At one point they had to have service done to the fan, whomever it was that worked on it either installed it backwards or reversed the polarity (not sure what or how this happened but the fan blew air in). This was done in the cooler months (not winter) and the house would get very warm. If not unbearably so. They had it corrected and their house was cool again. They live in Richmond, Virginia. When they had first moved into the house they didn't use the fan (I think it was the switch that was broke) they used fans and window AC's. The fans didn't work real good and it was kind of expensive having an AC in each room (they didn't want central air). I believe someone talked them into getting the fan fixed and they were surprised at how well it worked. They could have the windows open without fans in them and it would stay cool. I remember the first time I came to visit after they got the fan working. I noticed how cool the house was and the windows were open, I remarked that shouldn't they close the windows with the AC on (as I thought they finally upgraded to central air).....lol...


Here's a thought exercise... imagine a cup of hot tea, very hot nearly 90c. You can see steam rising off it. Now imagine 6 inches above the cup, a 140mm fan pointed down, spinning at 1000 rpm. What happens to the steam?

A pc case is a little different than a house...

There's usually a giant "window" with a giant fan in it at the very top on the backside of the house. And giant windows on the front of the house too, with fans fans blowing air in. And I mean really GIANT, these windows take up 1/3 or 1/4 the side of the house, sometimes there are two or three of these MONSTER windows with MONSTER fans on the front taking up most of the wall of the house. And inside this house, there are no interior walls or solid doors, there may be a couple areas with some clutter, but a breeze can still run thru even the most cluttered areas. Generally theres a solid front to back wall of air flowing across the case. Warm air does not get trapped on the 2nd story ceiling like it does in a house with few open windows and lots of interior walls.

It's more like a carport with no front or back wall. Does heat get trapped on the ceiling of a carport?


----------



## michael-ocn

My h240x window repair kit finally showed up

- new clear window
- clear coolant concentrate (about 2 ounces or 60 mls)
- a short fill/drain tube, 3" long on a 1/4" fitting
- small funnel
- and a bonus item, a small tube of tim mate

I'll finally be able to fix it this weekend.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> It's more like a carport with no front or back wall. Does heat get trapped on the ceiling of a carport?


The point was not in the similarities of a house to a PC but the fact that cooling is more efficient when the ""hot air" is allowed to follow it's natural path which is essentially up. Yes you can move the warmer air around all you want but in my experience you will get cooler temps if your top fans are blowing out rather than blowing in. Sometimes it may only be by a few degrees but the temps should be better.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The point was not in the similarities of a house to a PC but the fact that cooling is more efficient when the ""hot air" is allowed to follow it's natural path which is essentially up. Yes you can move the warmer air around all you want but in my experience you will get cooler temps if your top fans are blowing out rather than blowing in. Sometimes it may only be by a few degrees but the temps should be better.


For whatever is being cooled by the radiator specifically, air temp at rad intake trumps whether its going up or down thru the rad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first heat DOES NOT rise, hot air does, but only because hot air is less dense then cold air.
> that is key, it isnt the heat that causes the air to "rise" it is the less dense part,
> 
> but more over this is easily defeated by a fan
> unless you are running a 100% passive system, in a pc hot air DOES NOT rise, it goes where i want it to via the fan !
> 
> 
> 
> I understand that it is the air to rises, it is just a term and there is nothing wrong with using "heat rises", or "warm air rises". My niece used to correct me and my mom when we would cough and say it went down the wrong pipe, I know how it works......it is just a term that I use and many other people use, much like "sweat like a pig".
> That is all true, but I base my response on a house. There are some houses built with a large fan in the attic, my cousin and her family used to live in one (they may still). During the summer months they would turn that fan on and it would keep the house very cool despite the heat outside. At one point they had to have service done to the fan, whomever it was that worked on it either installed it backwards or reversed the polarity (not sure what or how this happened but the fan blew air in). This was done in the cooler months (not winter) and the house would get very warm. If not unbearably so. They had it corrected and their house was cool again. They live in Richmond, Virginia. When they had first moved into the house they didn't use the fan (I think it was the switch that was broke) they used fans and window AC's. The fans didn't work real good and it was kind of expensive having an AC in each room (they didn't want central air). I believe someone talked them into getting the fan fixed and they were surprised at how well it worked. They could have the windows open without fans in them and it would stay cool. I remember the first time I came to visit after they got the fan working. I noticed how cool the house was and the windows were open, I remarked that shouldn't they close the windows with the AC on (as I thought they finally upgraded to central air).....lol...
Click to expand...

wow. i am sorry but this is completely wrong
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> It's more like a carport with no front or back wall. Does heat get trapped on the ceiling of a carport?
> 
> 
> 
> The point was not in the similarities of a house to a PC but the fact that cooling is more efficient when the ""hot air" is allowed to follow it's natural path which is essentially up. Yes you can move the warmer air around all you want but in my experience you will get cooler temps if your top fans are blowing out rather than blowing in. Sometimes it may only be by a few degrees but the temps should be better.
Click to expand...

as is this.

your house being hot with heat in the attic has nothing to do with heat rising, nor when you add a fan in the attic FORCING air out ( not rising ) making the house feel cool

your attic is hot due to a dark roof and a LACK of insulation on the exterior walls, most attics the insulation is on the "floor" of the ceiling below, this means the sun heats the dark roof there by heating the attic. when the air is static, your house starts to absorb the heat , when you install an attic fan the heat is removed and you have less heat load, there by making it cooler in the house,

bottom line, more heat load more heat
less heat load less heat, has nothing to do with "cooling is more efficient when the ""hot air" is allowed to follow it's natural path which is essentially up" it only has to do with LOWERING heat loads i d c where the heat is, as long as it isnt in your house,

same with a pc case, does not matter where the heat is, as long as it isnt in the pc case


----------



## RnRollie

sigh

hot air rises....

yes, but a passing bumblebee actually displaces more air as the natural thermal convection currents
The only thing a bumblebee would think when flying through your case is "hmm its dark inhere" before being chopped to pieces by a fan
A little mosquito might think,, "ooh, thermal lift, nice".. but if you have running fans it would probably think "frack, turbulence" before being chopped to pieces by a fan

And all this insectile massacre is assuming that the very little volume of air in a case is actually "hot" enough to have a mesurable rising / lifting effect.

Talk to air ballooning nutjobs.. ask them how much hot air you need to lift something, and how hot it needs to be









As soon as you introduce fans / forced airflow into a case, then "hot air rises" is irrelevant. Which does not mean you cannot have "hot pockets", but these are msot of the time not the result of "hot air rises", but the result of having poor airflow or "throughflow" in the first place..

BTW: i love the analogy, but comparing an Attic-Fan cooled house with a PC can make it more difficult to convey what you are trying to explain


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> For whatever is being cooled by the radiator specifically, air temp at rad intake trumps whether its going up or down thru the rad.


Yes.....but you also need to consider the rest of your system. I see people running rads as intake all the time, and meanwhile have an air cooled 290X/980 Ti and can't figure out why the GPU fans are running so high, and why the GPU VRM is burning up. Cooling needs to be a holistic approach. You need to follow the plan that is best for *all* of your components, not one singular component. Gaining two degrees on your CPU at the expense of ten degrees on your GPU/VRM/etc is flat out idiotic. Not to mention the fact that if you actually take the time to get your build's airflow correct, you will se essentially no performance difference between intake and exhaust on the CPU (though you certainly will on your other components).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> sigh
> 
> hot air rises....
> 
> yes, but a passing bumblebee actually displaces more air as the natural thermal convection currents
> The only thing a bumblebee would think when flying through your case is "hmm its dark inhere" before being chopped to pieces by a fan
> A little mosquito might think,, "ooh, thermal lift, nice".. but if you have running fans it would probably think "frack, turbulence" before being chopped to pieces by a fan
> 
> And all this insectile massacre is assuming that the very little volume of air in a case is actually "hot" enough to have a mesurable rising / lifting effect.
> 
> Talk to air ballooning nutjobs.. ask them how much hot air you need to lift something, and how hot it needs to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as you introduce fans / forced airflow into a case, then "hot air rises" is irrelevant. Which does not mean you cannot have "hot pockets", but these are msot of the time not the result of "hot air rises", but the result of having poor airflow or "throughflow" in the first place..
> 
> BTW: i love the analogy, but comparing an Attic-Fan cooled house with a PC can make it more difficult to convey what you are trying to explain


You're right. Great explanation. Maybe it was a bad comparison but it was something I could relate and the only thing I I could come up with at the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes.....but you also need to consider the rest of your system. I see people running rads as intake all the time, and meanwhile have an air cooled 290X/980 Ti and can't figure out why the GPU fans are running so high, and why the GPU VRM is burning up. Cooling needs to be a holistic approach. You need to follow the plan that is best for *all* of your components, not one singular component. Gaining two degrees on your CPU at the expense of ten degrees on your GPU/VRM/etc is flat out idiotic. Not to mention the fact that if you actually take the time to get your build's airflow correct, you will se essentially no performance difference between intake and exhaust on the CPU (though you certainly will on your other components).


I never really thought of it that way. It makes sense but I have no experience with that.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> sigh
> 
> hot air rises....
> 
> yes, but a passing bumblebee actually displaces more air as the natural thermal convection currents
> The only thing a bumblebee would think when flying through your case is "hmm its dark inhere" before being chopped to pieces by a fan
> A little mosquito might think,, "ooh, thermal lift, nice".. but if you have running fans it would probably think "frack, turbulence" before being chopped to pieces by a fan
> 
> And all this *insectile massacre* is assuming that the very little volume of air in a case is actually "hot" enough to have a mesurable rising / lifting effect.
> 
> Talk to air ballooning nutjobs.. ask them how much hot air you need to lift something, and how hot it needs to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as you introduce fans / forced airflow into a case, then "hot air rises" is irrelevant. Which does not mean you cannot have "hot pockets", but these are msot of the time not the result of "hot air rises", but the result of having poor airflow or "throughflow" in the first place..
> 
> BTW: i love the analogy, but comparing an Attic-Fan cooled house with a PC can make it more difficult to convey what you are trying to explain


lol, awesome explanation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes.....but you also need to consider the rest of your system. I see people running rads as intake all the time, and meanwhile have an air cooled 290X/980 Ti and can't figure out why the GPU fans are running so high, and why the GPU VRM is burning up. Cooling needs to be a holistic approach. You need to follow the plan that is best for *all* of your components, not one singular component. Gaining two degrees on your CPU at the expense of ten degrees on your GPU/VRM/etc is flat out idiotic. Not to mention the fact that if you actually take the time to get your build's airflow correct, you will se essentially no performance difference between intake and exhaust on the CPU (though you certainly will on your other components).


Yup, that's why i was careful to say "for whatever is being cooled by the radiator specifically" and also why i have a case that provides excellent front-to-back airflow.


----------



## bmt22033

I ordered an H240 X2 Prestige from Performance PCs about 8 or 9 days ago and finally had time today to work on my new build. Unfortunately, as it turns out, I apparently have a small leak somewhere near the reservoir. I called Swiftech and they said "send us your receipt and we'll see about exchanging it". I sent them the receipt but I wish I had thought to ask how long it would take to get a replacement. Now I have all of my other components but no CPU cooler. In the meantime, the clock is ticking on my return window should anything else turn out to be DOA or broken in some way. I could return the Swiftech to Performance PCs but they'll charge me a 20% restocking fee (or so says their website). I also saw a fair number of posts on the Swiftech forums from people reporting issues with the new X2 coolers. I realize that only the people having problems are likely to post and there could be lots of people using them with no problems whatsoever but now I'm a little concerned that maybe I should've gone with something else? Has anyone ever gotten something exchanged directly with Swiftech? If so, how long did it take?


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmt22033*
> 
> I ordered an H240 X2 Prestige from Performance PCs about 8 or 9 days ago and finally had time today to work on my new build. Unfortunately, as it turns out, I apparently have a small leak somewhere near the reservoir. I called Swiftech and they said "send us your receipt and we'll see about exchanging it". I sent them the receipt but I wish I had thought to ask how long it would take to get a replacement. Now I have all of my other components but no CPU cooler. In the meantime, the clock is ticking on my return window should anything else turn out to be DOA or broken in some way. I could return the Swiftech to Performance PCs but they'll charge me a 20% restocking fee (or so says their website). I also saw a fair number of posts on the Swiftech forums from people reporting issues with the new X2 coolers. I realize that only the people having problems are likely to post and there could be lots of people using them with no problems whatsoever but now I'm a little concerned that maybe I should've gone with something else? Has anyone ever gotten something exchanged directly with Swiftech? If so, how long did it take?


Why would Performance PC not give you a new set? I got my third set in 1 month. But that's a bit bad luck. The first time I had a leak, at the same place you got. It happen more with the Prestige edition and I've heard it's not allowed to sell them at the moment, because of the leaking problems (not because the resevoir is bad, but the montage was too tight) The next time my pump was broken in 3 hours. The third set is doing fine. I'm not sure why you want to change the product directly at Swiftech. I think they like you to contact the reseller, for changing your set. But they could tell you, validate your RMA to your reseller. So they exange it. Over here I got the new RMA sets the next day after they recieved my retour. I'm not sure if this is helping you, but this is my experience. I did not like my money back, because the set is cooling really well and it look's great too in my opinion.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am in the process of cleaning out some tubing because it started to turn green. I have used vinegar and water with the pipe cleaners I ordered and no matter what I do I can't get all of the discoloration out. I have also tried scrubbing them with dish soap and though that worked a little better than the vinegar and water the tubing is still slightly tinted.
Could it be the tubing?
I am using the Danger Dan UV blue tubing with 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD.
If you think it could be the tubing do you have any recommendations for clear blue UV tubing?


----------



## Mega Man

soft tubing WILL change color

it is leaching plasisizer and discoloring ( naturally ) as well, there is not much you can do to stop, slow or repel it


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am in the process of cleaning out some tubing because it started to turn green. I have used vinegar and water with the pipe cleaners I ordered and no matter what I do I can't get all of the discoloration out. I have also tried scrubbing them with dish soap and though that worked a little better than the vinegar and water the tubing is still slightly tinted.
> Could it be the tubing?
> I am using the Danger Dan UV blue tubing with 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD.
> If you think it could be the tubing do you have any recommendations for clear blue UV tubing?


You are better off changing the tubes.. I had to do that to mine..I did the vinegar thing too ran it for 24 hrs. to clean out my unit but still had to change it..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> soft tubing WILL change color
> 
> it is leaching plasisizer and discoloring ( naturally ) as well, there is not much you can do to stop, slow or repel it


I didn't realize that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> You are better off changing the tubes.. I had to do that to mine..I did the vinegar thing too ran it for 24 hrs. to clean out my unit but still had to change it..


Yeah I was thinking that. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't the brand.

Thanks guys!


----------



## Mega Man

i need to backtrack, keep it outta the sun will help to slow the discoloration


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need to backtrack, keep it outta the sun will help to slow the discoloration


No sun near the tubing... not even on the PC. Window is about 10 ft away behind the chair and it has dark brown full length curtains. When I do have the window open in the warmer months the sunlight really does not hit the PC as the window points south.


----------



## hypespazm

Recently in an attempt to clean my loop I accidentally removed the entire void warranty sticker







not only that but im not gettting the best performance atleast not what i was used too any suggestions on boosting the performance on this cooler?
I have the h240x
maybe I need a better fan controller? or ramp up the revs on the pump and the fans?
maybe i should switch out the mineral water again?
not sure anything would help i have a 3930K @4.6ghz 1.415v and its getting about 70C on load.. I am also using that MX-4 thermal paste....
my case is an phanteks entho luxe I have 2 140mm noctuas pulling in 3 140mm's fans pulling out

I honestly dont know what to do but before when i first got the pump i would about around the 55C on load.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> You are better off changing the tubes.. I had to do that to mine..I did the vinegar thing too ran it for 24 hrs. to clean out my unit but still had to change it..


Always. I have never re-used tubing when changing fluid. Very, very small investment to try to help safeguard your loop from plasticizer.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Always. I have never re-used tubing when changing fluid. Very, very small investment to try to help safeguard your loop from plasticizer.


Will you remove the entire set before doing this and how much time do you spend to change them? I would like to shorten 1 tube a bit. Not that I need it badly, but in the end I still like to. And also put blue dye in there.

Will you still get warranty if you recplace watertubes, or change the waterresevoir with that kit for example?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Will you remove the entire set before doing this and how much time do you spend to change them? I would like to shorten 1 tube a bit. Not that I need it badly, but in the end I still like to. And also put blue dye in there.
> 
> Will you still get warranty if you recplace watertubes, or change the waterresevoir with that kit for example?


On a Swiftech H series, yes I would remove the entire thing. Install only takes a few minutes, why risk playing with liquid inside of the case?

As far as time, obviously the first time takes longer. Once you have done it a few times it is really quick. I can do it from start to finish in under an hour including run time and a couple of top offs outside of the case.


----------



## ronaldoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> On a Swiftech H series, yes I would remove the entire thing. Install only takes a few minutes, why risk playing with liquid inside of the case?
> 
> As far as time, obviously the first time takes longer. Once you have done it a few times it is really quick. I can do it from start to finish in under an hour including run time and a couple of top offs outside of the case.


Thanks, that doesn't sound bad. I think getting the water out, and getting it in correctly is the hardest part. Is that your experience as well?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldoz*
> 
> Thanks, that doesn't sound bad. I think getting the water out, and getting it in correctly is the hardest part. Is that your experience as well?


I wouldn't call any of it a hard part. Draining is very easy. The fill does require powering it up outside of the case, but I don't consider that hard. Bleeding it can be an annoyance sometimes, but only because of the repetition.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> Recently in an attempt to clean my loop I accidentally removed the entire void warranty sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not only that but im not gettting the best performance atleast not what i was used too any suggestions on boosting the performance on this cooler?
> I have the h240x
> maybe I need a better fan controller? or ramp up the revs on the pump and the fans?
> maybe i should switch out the mineral water again?
> not sure anything would help i have a 3930K @4.6ghz 1.415v and its getting about 70C on load.. I am also using that MX-4 thermal paste....
> my case is an phanteks entho luxe I have 2 140mm noctuas pulling in 3 140mm's fans pulling out
> 
> I honestly dont know what to do but before when i first got the pump i would about around the 55C on load.


What did you do to remove the void warranty sticker?

Also, I hope you're not actually using mineral water. You should be using distilled water and there is a distinct difference between the two. The primary difference is that distilled water has just about no minerals in it whatsoever. Minerals in the water could cause a build up and clog or damage your loop. At the very least it will decrease performance over time.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What did you do to remove the void warranty sticker?
> 
> Also, I hope you're not actually using mineral water. You should be using distilled water and there is a distinct difference between the two. The primary difference is that distilled water has just about no minerals in it whatsoever. Minerals in the water could cause a build up and clog or damage your loop. At the very least it will decrease performance over time.


lol sorry i did mean distilled. and i was cleaning it out and pulled it, and then realized after i did i voided the warranty.. something pretty stupid i did without thinking


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> lol sorry i did mean distilled. and i was cleaning it out and pulled it, and then realized after i did i voided the warranty.. something pretty stupid i did without thinking


Eh, I have done similar things in the past. No biggie, unless you actually start to have a problem and have to scrape and scrounge to get a new unit.

If everything is the same and the only thing that changed was you cleaning out your loop then you may have done something else inadvertently. First thing is make sure all the fins for the radiator are not bent up or smashed in and nothing is blocking the air flow through the rad.

Is your CPU OC'd? If so your numbers are about right under load, they could maybe be a little less but that seems about right. I could be wrong as I am not familiar with the 3930k.

What are your temps at idle compared to what they were before?


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Eh, I have done similar things in the past. No biggie, unless you actually start to have a problem and have to scrape and scrounge to get a new unit.
> 
> If everything is the same and the only thing that changed was you cleaning out your loop then you may have done something else inadvertently. First thing is make sure all the fins for the radiator are not bent up or smashed in and nothing is blocking the air flow through the rad.
> 
> Is your CPU OC'd? If so your numbers are about right under load, they could maybe be a little less but that seems about right. I could be wrong as I am not familiar with the 3930k.
> 
> What are your temps at idle compared to what they were before?


right now I idle at arounf 45-50C underload I hit about 70C I have about 1.410 @4.6ghz

this happened when i closed the loop from when i had it expanded with the graphics card and another radiator.. but even before expanding the temperatures were better. nothing is damaged atm. to be honest.. i like the all in one.. and being that i am on x79 i cant really get another cooler without sacrificing my first pci e lane. ]

soo i guess if i take the overclock off and temps drop significantly i just wont be able to run the over clock at all unless i get another cooler


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> right now I idle at arounf 45-50C underload I hit about 70C I have about 1.410 @4.6ghz
> 
> this happened when i closed the loop from when i had it expanded with the graphics card and another radiator.. but even before expanding the temperatures were better. nothing is damaged atm. to be honest.. i like the all in one.. and being that i am on x79 i cant really get another cooler without sacrificing my first pci e lane. ]
> 
> soo i guess if i take the overclock off and temps drop significantly i just wont be able to run the over clock at all unless i get another cooler


I may be wrong but your idle temps seem a little high.
You could try lowering your OC till it is stable with a vcore at or below 1.4v. Then see what your idle temps look like.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I may be wrong but your idle temps seem a little high.
> You could try lowering your OC till it is stable with a vcore at or below 1.4v. Then see what your idle temps look like.


Idle temps are as pertinent to cooler performance as the user's favorite Pop Tart flavor. Way too many variables in fan curves and CPUs, and they can all be adjusted for. Load temps are the only telling factor.


----------



## michael-ocn

Ok... I'm up and running with my backup cooler, time to try to replace the window in the 240x and clean it up some.

edit: wow, what sadist designed the rubber gasket to seal the res window


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Idle temps are as pertinent to cooler performance as the user's favorite Pop Tart flavor. Way too many variables in fan curves and CPUs, and they can all be adjusted for. Load temps are the only telling factor.


yeah now after i took my OC off my temps are around 35C to 40C on idle its weird since i have 6 cores that register temp... still a bit warmer than i expected though. not completely bad


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ok... I'm up and running with my backup cooler, time to try to replace the window in the 240x and clean it up some.
> 
> edit: wow, what sadist designed the rubber gasket to seal the res window


Haha, I hear you. Read on:
I just tore my loop apart and took the cooling plate apart to clean that and I could not get all of the discoloration out. I should have taken a pic and seen what you all said along with Swiftech. I also removed my window and cleaned inside of there. While re-installing the window is where I ran into a couple of potential problems. First the gasket in no way wanted to agree with me putting it back in. I could get it to stay in place until I picked up the window and one corner or another would pop out. I must have fought with that thing for 20 mins to get it to stay, I think I was successful. Only time will tell. Then while installing the screws I cracked the edge just a little, it is outside of the gasket so it should be safe but I also may have inadvertently stripped the threads out because the screw never seemed to get tight. So I ran the pump for about two hours outside the case with no leaks. While I was installing it I noticed this bubble in my loop that seemed as big as end bone on my thumb. I was like you have got to be kidding me. So took the loop out and again bled it. I must have done that like three times before finally just installing it. I could not get rid of that bubble no matter what I did. I have not had this problem before so I just put it in like that. So far so good. The pump is silent and temps are about 5 deg above average for idle. I did the intel burn test and they seem a little high (high 50's to low 70's). But they were like that at first the last time I flushed my loop. If the temps do not go down (and I have no leaks) I will redo the thermal paste on the CPU. I had a little trouble putting that one. I got careless and put a little to much and had to spread it with a plastic card. So that may be the issue with the temps. Only time will tell.


----------



## hypespazm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Haha, I hear you. Read on:
> I just tore my loop apart and took the cooling plate apart to clean that and I could not get all of the discoloration out. I should have taken a pic and seen what you all said along with Swiftech. I also removed my window and cleaned inside of there. While re-installing the window is where I ran into a couple of potential problems. First the gasket in no way wanted to agree with me putting it back in. I could get it to stay in place until I picked up the window and one corner or another would pop out. I must have fought with that thing for 20 mins to get it to stay, I think I was successful. Only time will tell. Then while installing the screws I cracked the edge just a little, it is outside of the gasket so it should be safe but I also may have inadvertently stripped the threads out because the screw never seemed to get tight. So I ran the pump for about two hours outside the case with no leaks. While I was installing it I noticed this bubble in my loop that seemed as big as end bone on my thumb. I was like you have got to be kidding me. So took the loop out and again bled it. I must have done that like three times before finally just installing it. I could not get rid of that bubble no matter what I did. I have not had this problem before so I just put it in like that. So far so good. The pump is silent and temps are about 5 deg above average for idle. I did the intel burn test and they seem a little high (high 50's to low 70's). But they were like that at first the last time I flushed my loop. If the temps do not go down (and I have no leaks) I will redo the thermal paste on the CPU. I had a little trouble putting that one. I got careless and put a little to much and had to spread it with a plastic card. So that may be the issue with the temps. Only time will tell.


I see i am not the only one with these issues after cleaning the pump lol I might be investing in an aircooler this time around


----------



## michael-ocn

omg... filling this thing incredibly annoyingly slow, a teaspoon at a time, how it doesn't go into the res and instead sits in the fill tube seems to violate the laws of physics... more signs of the sadist aio designer!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> omg... filling this thing incredibly annoyingly slow, a teaspoon at a time, how it doesn't go into the res and instead sits in the fill tube seems to violate the laws of physics... more signs of the sadist aio designer!


I discovered that the best way to fill it is to cycle the pump on and off a few seconds at a time. Within moments of turning it off air bubbles will pop out and the water level will go down a little. If you leave the pump running the water level stays the same. I let it run one time for like 30 mins and nothing happened until I turned it off and the water level went down a little.

Yeah probably a sadist!


----------



## michael-ocn

Ok, i have a really stupid question?

Is the orientation of the copper plate compared to the block housing the proper orientation or should the plate be rotated by 90 degrees?



Also, that I can't find information about that on swiftech's website very frustrating.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> omg... filling this thing incredibly annoyingly slow, a teaspoon at a time, how it doesn't go into the res and instead sits in the fill tube seems to violate the laws of physics... more signs of the sadist aio designer!


I like my H240-X... but this is the one thing that is going to prevent me from buying an AIO ever again. Filling the H240-X is a huge PIA. Especially if you don't build fill and drain ports into your loop. The pump also doesn't have the punch of a D5.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ok, i have a really stupid question?
> 
> Is the orientation of the copper plate compared to the block housing the proper orientation or should the plate be rotated by 90 degrees?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, that I can't find information about that on swiftech's website very frustrating.


Doesn't really matter. See the review in my sig of the H220-X which has it tested out also.


----------



## arnavvr

W00t! Just got a H320 for $96 Shipped!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Doesn't really matter. See the review in my sig of the H220-X which has it tested out also.


Quote:


> Don't worry too much about the copper plate, a few scrubs later it was looking much better. I do point out here to check carefully for any remainders from the cloth/fabric used to clean as the pin-matrix will latch on and retain small pieces. Best to flush under running water to be sure. I will cover the CPU block in more detail in another thread soon but due to the pin-matrix layout, *you can interchange the inlet and outlet freely while also not having to worry about the CPU block orientation* (already tested, so this is backed by actual data too).


Interesting but I'm a skeptic. When shipped from the factory, do you know which orientation they have?

edit: i''m not asking about which way to mount the block on the cpu, i'm asking about the orientation of the copper plate itself on its block.


----------



## michael-ocn

I put the new window on and cleaned the cpu block, its cycling sysprep thru the loop for now. I hope the sysprep can eliminate that slime? The were far more cracks in the old window than i had realized!

Ah... the pump runs nice and quiet now that the air is bled out.


----------



## dVeLoPe

DO NOT FLAME ME PLEASE k thx

which will COOL a 5820K BY ITSELF BETTER

H240-X

or

DEEPCOOL 360

i own a h240x and am considering using it for a second loop for 2x gfx cards

and buying a deepcool 360 to cool the cpu alone instead of ''having to go custom now''

i can run 360 and let 240x sit around tll my blocks and other stuff come in running cards on air
then use 240x for 2x pascals and 360 deepcool for cpu

or can SOPMEONE BUILD ME A CUSTOM SETUP USING MY H240X for 99$ (thats what the deepcool will cost me)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> You are better off changing the tubes.. I had to do that to mine..I did the vinegar thing too ran it for 24 hrs. to clean out my unit but still had to change it..
> 
> 
> 
> Always. I have never re-used tubing when changing fluid. Very, very small investment to try to help safeguard your loop from plasticizer.
Click to expand...

really you don't have to, it is just for looks. Once plasticizers leaches out. it is gone so new tubing will have more plasticizers then old tubing


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm going to ask this question again because it might not have been real clear what I was asking before. I'm wondering what the proper orientation is for the copper plate vs the block housing. Which of the two pics below is correct? Notice the wide channels on the copper plate and how they align to the channels on the housing, the alignment is different in the two pics.

TopPic


BottomPic


Which has it right?

Thnx


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm going to ask this question again because it might not have been real clear what I was asking before. I'm wondering what the proper orientation is for the copper plate vs the block housing. Which if the two pics below is correct? Notice the wide channels on the copper plate and how they align to the channels on the housing, the alignment is different in the two pics.
> 
> TopPic
> 
> 
> BottomPic


Its going to be the top pic..The way the water flow from side to the other it easier no restriction..I took mine a part and thats the way it came out..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm going to ask this question again because it might not have been real clear what I was asking before. I'm wondering what the proper orientation is for the copper plate vs the block housing. Which of the two pics below is correct? Notice the wide channels on the copper plate and how they align to the channels on the housing, the alignment is different in the two pics.
> 
> TopPic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BottomPic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which has it right?
> 
> Thnx


The bottom pic
You just have to make sure the two valleys on the sides are lined up.....


----------



## michael-ocn

hmmm, ok, i have three different answers
- doesnt matter
- top pic
- bottom pic
wunderbar

madmaxneo, you said your temps were somewhat higher after having cleaned it... could having mixed that up when putting it back together be why?


----------



## michael-ocn

I think i got tie breaking answer, Bottom Pic!

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/09/02/swiftech-apogee-xl-performance-pcs-customized-rog-edition-review/





plus, i found photo evidence of that my block was actually assembled per the "bottom pic" orientation, you can see the grid pattern in the slime consistent with that orientation...



swifttech website is a mess for getting information like this, not to mention that 75% of the images are broken,
and 100% of the pdf links are broken... http://www.swiftech.com/Installation-Guides.aspx


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think i got tie breaking answer, Bottom Pic!
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/09/02/swiftech-apogee-xl-performance-pcs-customized-rog-edition-review/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus, i found photo evidence of that my block was actually assembled per the "bottom pic" orientation, you can see the grid pattern in the slime consistent with that orientation...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> swifttech website is a mess for getting information like this, not to mention that 75% of the images are broken,
> and 100% of the pdf links are broken... http://www.swiftech.com/Installation-Guides.aspx


Yeah that is how mine was put together when I pulled it apart the other day. The water is supposed to flow through the fins and not around them, at least that is the way it was designed.
I noticed that a lot of their links are broken and their PDF links do not work at all. I also had trouble even finding a PDF link for my unit. Their website is a mess. My temps are good. It seems that whenever I take apart my loop and flush/clean it the temps are a little high at first. After a day or so they go back to normal. Though after looking at those picks above I think my temps could be a little better. When I first disassembled the cold plate I noticed a good portion of the fins were not spaced apart correctly and in fact many of them were touching. I didn't really think about it at the time but if all my fins were aligned like in the pics I would probably get even better temps......

I wonder if I should contact Swiftech on this.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah that is how mine was put together when I pulled it apart the other day. The water is supposed to flow through the fins and not around them, at least that is the way it was designed.
> I noticed that a lot of their links are broken and their PDF links do not work at all. I also had trouble even finding a PDF link for my unit. Their website is a mess. My temps are good. It seems that whenever I take apart my loop and flush/clean it the temps are a little high at first. After a day or so they go back to normal. Though after looking at those picks above I think my temps could be a little better. When I first disassembled the cold plate I noticed a good portion of the fins were not spaced apart correctly and in fact many of them were touching. I didn't really think about it at the time but if all my fins were aligned like in the pics I would probably get even better temps......
> 
> I wonder if I should contact Swiftech on this.


fwiw, here's what mine looks like


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> fwiw, here's what mine looks like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks uniform compared to what mine looks like.


----------



## arnavvr

Is it hard to fill up a H320 Rev. 1?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> Is it hard to fill up a H320 Rev. 1?


having done my h220 several times, one you learn how to do it, its easy.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> having done my h220 several times, one you learn how to do it, its easy.


Never really easy, it is still a pain in the rear and a slow process......


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> Is it hard to fill up a H320 Rev. 1?


I'm sure its not 'hard' but some patience is probably required. That's what its like with the 240x. Once you get the knack of it its easy enough. I'm working in bleeding mine right now after having flushed it out a few times. Bleeding it takes some patience to let more and more air gather in the small res so you can replace it with liquid. It's well worth the silent running once your done though.


----------



## michael-ocn

My 240x is back in business with a new water tight res window and a cleaned up block. I was dreaming temps would be dramatically improved, but they're not, more or less the same, maybe a degree or two cooler? There are some tiny micro bubbles stuck to the res window, i hope this go away after a couple days. I think i went a little heavy on the coolant mix which might be why i've got those micro bubbles. I've unplugged the LEDs in the res to discourage stuff from growing in there. Windows and lights, the cosmetic things are not for me really.



Hooray, they're lessening


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'm going to ask this question again because it might not have been real clear what I was asking before. I'm wondering what the proper orientation is for the copper plate vs the block housing. Which of the two pics below is correct? Notice the wide channels on the copper plate and how they align to the channels on the housing, the alignment is different in the two pics.
> 
> TopPic
> 
> 
> BottomPic
> 
> 
> Which has it right?
> 
> Thnx


bottom pic


----------



## mfknjadagr8

After tearing down my loop I thought I would share what :'(block and broken res window are like after over a year with just distilled no biocide...


Spoiler: pictures






[\spoiler]


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> DO NOT FLAME ME PLEASE k thx
> 
> which will COOL a 5820K BY ITSELF BETTER
> 
> H240-X
> 
> or
> 
> DEEPCOOL 360
> 
> i own a h240x and am considering using it for a second loop for 2x gfx cards
> 
> and buying a deepcool 360 to cool the cpu alone instead of ''having to go custom now''
> 
> i can run 360 and let 240x sit around tll my blocks and other stuff come in running cards on air
> then use 240x for 2x pascals and 360 deepcool for cpu
> 
> or can SOPMEONE BUILD ME A CUSTOM SETUP USING MY H240X for 99$ (thats what the deepcool will cost me)


for me it doesnt make sense to put a 360 rad on a CPU, while ONLY a 240 on TWO GPUs... it should be the other way around... there is not commonly used CPU in the world that justifies a 360 Rad... the number of "hot" GPUs however...









With a 360 for TWO GPU's, at least you stand a chance to keeping them under control

as for building a CUSTOM loop which includes TWO Waterblocks (Full Cover or Universal), fittings, hose, Radiator, (optional pump)....



sorry about that


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> After tearing down my loop I thought I would share what :'(block and broken res window are like after over a year with just distilled no biocide...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [\spoiler]


That is just distilled water, nothing added? If so wow.


----------



## ciarlatano

Error in post....just ignore.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> After tearing down my loop I thought I would share what :'(block and broken res window are like after over a year with just distilled no biocide...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [\spoiler]


just some patina... thats actually quite good

you sure you used distilled and not de-ionised? A grayish patina is more consistent with de-ionised


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> DO NOT FLAME ME PLEASE k thx
> 
> which will COOL a 5820K BY ITSELF BETTER
> 
> H240-X
> 
> or
> 
> DEEPCOOL 360
> 
> i own a h240x and am considering using it for a second loop for 2x gfx cards
> 
> and buying a deepcool 360 to cool the cpu alone instead of ''having to go custom now''
> 
> i can run 360 and let 240x sit around tll my blocks and other stuff come in running cards on air
> then use 240x for 2x pascals and 360 deepcool for cpu
> 
> or can SOPMEONE BUILD ME A CUSTOM SETUP USING MY H240X for 99$ (thats what the deepcool will cost me)


I can recommend a bevy of coolers for less than $99 that will outperform the DeepCool 360. Does that count?

And why would you possibly use the DeepCool and let the H240-X sit around....when you can simply use the 240-X and expand the loop when you get the parts? It makes no sense at all.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> After tearing down my loop I thought I would share what :'(block and broken res window are like after over a year with just distilled no biocide...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [\spoiler]


Looks great!

I'm surprised at that after seeing the greenish brown slime all over mine after less than six months with the factory coolant. I hope I've killed everything in there now. Mine's looking a lot nicer now, not greenish (and the bubbles are all gone now too). But I think there might be organic dead stuff debris detaching from tube walling and cycling in the loop that could eventually clog the waterblock micro-channels. I didn't swab the rubber tubing out or blitz the rad. I have enough sysprep and coolant on hand to do half a dozen more cleaning+refillings, any degradation in performance or return of green slime and i'll have to try again.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> After tearing down my loop I thought I would share what :'(block and broken res window are like after over a year with just distilled no biocide...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [\spoiler]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> I'm surprised at that after seeing the greenish brown slime all over mine after less than six months with the factory coolant. I hope I've killed everything in there now. Mine's looking a lot nicer now, not greenish (and the bubbles are all gone now too). But I think there might be organic dead stuff debris detaching from tube walling and cycling in the loop that could eventually clog the waterblock micro-channels. I didn't swab the rubber tubing out or blitz the rad. I have enough sysprep and coolant on hand to do half a dozen more cleaning+refillings, any degradation in performance or return of green slime and i'll have to try again.
Click to expand...

A pinch of Citric Acid or.. some automotive coolant (10%) will kill it all

... unless itis a crossbreed with MRSA, and in that case we are all doomed... not even Rick Grimes or Chuck Norris will be able to save mankind in that case.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> A pinch of Citric Acid or.. some automotive coolant (10%) will kill it all
> 
> ... unless itis a crossbreed with MRSA, and in that case we are all doomed... not even Rick Grimes or Chuck Norris will be able to save mankind in that case.


Actually, the greenish'ness is much reduced but still there a little, i wish i had done a better job of wiping the bay down when it was all open. I think i was expecting the sysprep stuff to magically scour it all sparkling clean.



Citric acid as in lemon juice? How much and can i just leave that in the loop?


----------



## RnRollie

Well it IS an ACID after all, so not too much, and yes you can leave it inthere if you want

Normally, its about a flat tea/coffeespoon for 1 LITER of water... so, if your loop is less... less Citric Acid - rule of 3 applies

And NO it is not the same as Lemon Juice







The lemon juice they sell in those green lemon shaped plastic "bottles" does have other stuff in it also.

No, you get Citric Acid POWDER .. (probably on the same shelve as Baking Soda in the supermarket) ... probably gonna cost you like $2 for a pound or a kilo... and you add a pinch of it into your loop

The rest you can use in your coffee maker.. or throw in the toilet bowl ... it works just as well as the 'specialised' commercial products... but a lot cheaper









Cuttlery... use coffee or teaspoon.. whatever is the smallest


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Well it IS an ACID after all, so not too much, and yes you can leave it inthere if you want
> 
> Normally, its about a flat tea/coffeespoon for 1 LITER of water... so, if your loop is less... less Citric Acid - rule of 3 applies
> 
> And NO it is not the same as Lemon Juice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lemon juice they sell in those green lemon shaped plastic "bottles" does have other stuff in it also.
> 
> No, you get Citric Acid POWDER .. (probably on the same shelve as Baking Soda in the supermarket) ... probably gonna cost you like $2 for a pound or a kilo... and you add a pinch of it into your loop
> 
> The rest you can use in your coffee maker.. or throw in the toilet bowl ... it works just as well as the 'specialised' commercial products... but a lot cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cuttlery... use coffee or teaspoon.. whatever is the smallest


Ah, it's a descaler too. Thnx. I'll keep this in mind for next time, I expect there'll be a next time, some boiling water may be involved next time too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ah, it's a descaler too. Thnx. I'll keep this in mind for next time, I expect there'll be a next time, some boiling water may be involved next time too.


Yes.

This is why I get so baffled about people not simply springing the $10 for a good coolant concentrate. Biocide, anti-corrosive and anti-scaling all premeasured for you. People run distilled water like it is some strange badge of honor, and spend $20 trying to formulate what is already done in the concentrates.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> This is why I get so baffled about people not simply springing the $10 for a good coolant concentrate. Biocide, anti-corrosive and anti-scaling all premeasured for you. People run distilled water like it is some strange badge of honor, and spend $20 trying to formulate what is already done in the concentrates.


I have to clean mine up again after 3 month the last time I cleaned mine for green stuff all over. I did the vinegar thing for 24 hours then the system pep for 12 hrs. then distilled water with pt nuke and still it turning green. I brought coolant concentrate this time around. Hopefully it will stop turning green on me..









I just got my replacement window in the mail so this weekend i will be cleaning it out again. I do have a 120 rad and a block for my gpu on the loop.
I want to put clear tubing but until I don't get the green out I have to stick to black tubing..


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Never really easy, it is still a pain in the rear and a slow process......


my original time on refilling a loop took me several hours. now if I want to top something off, it takes a few minutes for me. If its replacing the liquid entirely, maybe like half an hour at most. If someone doesn't have the time to spend half an hour on something, custom water cooling probably isn't the way to go.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> just some patina... thats actually quite good
> 
> you sure you used distilled and not de-ionised? A grayish patina is more consistent with de-ionised


yep distilled only nothing else...unfortunately I'm not even close to being done with the transplant...need washers for the rad screws and I'm gong to have to get creative with the tubing lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> my original time on refilling a loop took me several hours. now if I want to top something off, it takes a few minutes for me. If its replacing the liquid entirely, maybe like half an hour at most. If someone doesn't have the time to spend half an hour on something, custom water cooling probably isn't the way to go.


A half hour is just refilling the loop. It takes a bit of time to do that on the H240-X. Plus with my system I have to pull it out and remove the case fan guard on top.
At the fastest it will take more than 30 minutes to do mine here, probably double that at the very minimum.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> This is why I get so baffled about people not simply springing the $10 for a good coolant concentrate. Biocide, anti-corrosive and anti-scaling all premeasured for you. People run distilled water like it is some strange badge of honor, and spend $20 trying to formulate what is already done in the concentrates.


Not long ago, I was looking around for what coolant to use and skimmed many threads on the topic. The way i remember it is, lots of threads start with a "which coolant" question, and then there's a chorus of respondents saying "all you need is distilled water and a kill-a-coil or pt-nuke".

I've turned the lights off in my loop and have covered the res window now too (but i need to get a better cover). That outa make it a little more difficult for algae to grow in there


----------



## Imprezzion

Aaaaaaaand my pump is dead again on my H320.. Had this unit since dec. 2013 because it was already a RMA unit since the first one had a dead pump as well.

I had temperature and noise issues as well with this unit before and i opened it all up to check what the deal was (it was unopened at that time, stock swiftech fluids still in it) and it looked like this.



I have no clue what it is but it was there.. So i cleaned the block with a toothbrush, flushed the pump and rad with just basic demineralized water.

Refilled the loop with basic demiwater and a drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme, bled the air out of it and leaktested for a good 30 minutes with the res on the highest point.

Worked perfectly fine for a few months and was quiet and cool as ever.

This week the noise started again and CPU temps went up ~10c average compared to what it should be so logically i removed it from my rig again and opened it up.

Exactly the same buildup of crud was in the block again and it was inside the pump as well..
I thought it was the swiftech fluid depositing crud at first but this was with clean demiwater and biocide.. The fluid itself was perfectly clear and clean wierdly enough..

So, same treatment, cleaned it, filled it, leaktest and bled it however the pump noise wouldn't stop..

I decided to just build it into my rig again and let it run for a good 3 hours on full PWM speed with the res as highest point in the loop..
Only got worse..

There's no air in it, res is topped up perfectly, no bubbles to be seen either but the pump is making a hella noise and inside the block it makes a very loud "water gurgling / flowing" sound like someone left the kitchen sink on..

Even on minimal speed (20% PWM) it still makes the terrible "running water" noise albeit a lot quiter and slower (more like a dripping sound).

Soooo.. ripped it all apart *again* and repeated the whole refill, bleed and let it run for a few hours scenario..
No improvement whatsoever..

Strangely enough the temperatures are incredibly good and it keeps my 3770K on 4.5Ghz 1.280v at ~65c in Linpack AVX on 20% PWM with fans on 20% as well..
Will also do just fine with my "24/7"OC of 4.95Ghz on 1.448v doing about 75c at 100% PWM just like it always used to do.

Problem is just that the noise is unbearable.. It's *so* loud i can hear it through my Steelseries Siberia even tho my PC is over 1 meter away under my desk..

Your never going to convince me that it's normal and that the pump is going to survive long running like this lol..

I already mailed the Swiftech rep BramSLI1 from OCN who helped me last time with setting up my RMA but just wanted to share this experience and wanted to see what you guys think is wrong with my unit..

Personally i think it's the O-ring in the center of the block / pump that's leaking.. The ring was looking kind of rough honestly... Could that be it? If so I might be able to fix it myself but..


----------



## michael-ocn

my money's on plasticizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Aaaaaaaand my pump is dead again on my H320.. Had this unit since dec. 2013 because it was already a RMA unit since the first one had a dead pump as well.
> 
> I had temperature and noise issues as well with this unit before and i opened it all up to check what the deal was (it was unopened at that time, stock swiftech fluids still in it) and it looked like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I have no clue what it is but it was there*.. So i cleaned the block with a toothbrush, flushed the pump and rad with just basic demineralized water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Refilled the loop with basic demiwater and a drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme, bled the air out of it and leaktested for a good 30 minutes with the res on the highest point.
> 
> Worked perfectly fine for a few months and was quiet and cool as ever.
> 
> This week the noise started again and CPU temps went up ~10c average compared to what it should be so logically i removed it from my rig again and opened it up.
> 
> Exactly the same buildup of crud was in the block again and it was inside the pump as well..
> I thought it was the swiftech fluid depositing crud at first but this was with clean demiwater and biocide.. The fluid itself was perfectly clear and clean wierdly enough..
> 
> So, same treatment, cleaned it, filled it, leaktest and bled it however the pump noise wouldn't stop..
> 
> I decided to just build it into my rig again and let it run for a good 3 hours on full PWM speed with the res as highest point in the loop..
> Only got worse..
> 
> There's no air in it, res is topped up perfectly, no bubbles to be seen either but the pump is making a hella noise and inside the block it makes a very loud "water gurgling / flowing" sound like someone left the kitchen sink on..
> 
> Even on minimal speed (20% PWM) it still makes the terrible "running water" noise albeit a lot quiter and slower (more like a dripping sound).
> 
> Soooo.. ripped it all apart *again* and repeated the whole refill, bleed and let it run for a few hours scenario..
> No improvement whatsoever..
> 
> Strangely enough the temperatures are incredibly good and it keeps my 3770K on 4.5Ghz 1.280v at ~65c in Linpack AVX on 20% PWM with fans on 20% as well..
> Will also do just fine with my "24/7"OC of 4.95Ghz on 1.448v doing about 75c at 100% PWM just like it always used to do.
> 
> Problem is just that the noise is unbearable.. It's *so* loud i can hear it through my Steelseries Siberia even tho my PC is over 1 meter away under my desk..
> 
> Your never going to convince me that it's normal and that the pump is going to survive long running like this lol..
> 
> I already mailed the Swiftech rep BramSLI1 from OCN who helped me last time with setting up my RMA but just wanted to share this experience and wanted to see what you guys think is wrong with my unit..
> 
> Personally i think it's the O-ring in the center of the block / pump that's leaking.. The ring was looking kind of rough honestly... Could that be it? If so I might be able to fix it myself but.
> 
> 
> .


----------



## Imprezzion

That's what a few of you said as well the first time i rebuild it and showed that pic but where is it coming from...

I mean, the fluids been replaced fully by clean demiwater with a drop of biocide.. There's no plasticizer in there anymore unless it's coming from the tubing itself..

If that's the case, and they do RMA me another unit, i'll straight up swap the tubing and fluid myself for clear tubing with blue dyed fluid..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Aaaaaaaand my pump is dead again on my H320.. Had this unit since dec. 2013 because it was already a RMA unit since the first one had a dead pump as well. ......


The tubing....change the tubing. EK ZMT would be best for preventing this from ever happening again. Mod My Toys Dreamflex and Primochill Advanced LRT are better choices than what comes stock, also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> my money's on plasticizer


Do you want to let that ride, or will you be cashing in your winnings now?


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> That's what a few of you said as well the first time i rebuild it and showed that pic but where is it coming from...
> 
> I mean, the fluids been replaced fully by clean demiwater with a drop of biocide.. There's no plasticizer in there anymore unless it's coming from the tubing itself..
> 
> If that's the case, and they do RMA me another unit, i'll straight up swap the tubing and fluid myself for clear tubing with blue dyed fluid..


Had experienced that nasty gunk before in my old H220. I replaced the tubing with advance primochill and all problems went away. As a matter of fact, i just did an annual cleaning last week for that unit and they were surprisingly clean.

Also, the new Swiftech rep is @Dango as Bryan went to pursue his studies. Hope that helps.


----------



## Imprezzion

Thanks mate, i'll re-send my mail i wrote to Bryan to him as well in a PM.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The tubing....change the tubing. EK ZMT would be best for preventing this from ever happening again. Mod My Toys Dreamflex and Primochill Advanced LRT are better choices than what comes stock, also.
> Do you want to let that ride, or will you be cashing in your winnings now?


Isn't that a general rule of thumb, to change your tubing out when you clean and flush the system at least once a year or so?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Isn't that a general rule of thumb, to change your tubing out when you clean and flush the system at least once a year or so?


you can but if you buy good tubing that's plasticizer free you won't have the issue and the only reason to replace tubing would be preference or if a piece develops a thin spot or is twisted at a near kinked angle and that can make it more brittle....some people do it for peace of mind but I've had my loop for over two years and never replaced a single piece of tubing other than the initial replacement of the stock tubing....no issues no thin spots no failures.... That said I changed fluid and configuration five times the first year and this year I've kept the same setup...but I plan to maintenance every six months and I generally every few weeks check the connections and the seals on everything under full stress full speed conditions to be sure nothing is leaking when it all expands


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you can but if you buy good tubing that's plasticizer free you won't have the issue and the only reason to replace tubing would be preference or if a piece develops a thin spot or is twisted at a near kinked angle and that can make it more brittle....some people do it for peace of mind but I've had my loop for over two years and never replaced a single piece of tubing other than the initial replacement of the stock tubing....no issues no thin spots no failures.... That said I changed fluid and configuration five times the first year and this year I've kept the same setup...but I plan to maintenance every six months and I generally every few weeks check the connections and the seals on everything under full stress full speed conditions to be sure nothing is leaking when it all expands


What brands of tubing are plasticizer free? I have some Danger Dan's UV tubing and I do not remember if it was or not.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What brands of tubing are plasticizer free? I have some Danger Dan's UV tubing and I do not remember if it was or not.


Rubber (like EK ZMT), and http://www.performance-pcs.com/plasticizer-free-tubing


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Rubber (like EK ZMT), and http://www.performance-pcs.com/plasticizer-free-tubing


All of it is clear and no UV... hmmm I may get some anyway for the next time I flush and clean my loop


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> All of it is clear and no UV... hmmm I may get some anyway for the next time I flush and clean my loop


I have never seen plasticizer free UV tubing, and not aware of any existing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have never seen plasticizer free UV tubing, and not aware of any existing.


I want wasn't aware he was using uv tubing oops...at any rate if I went with uv tubing I would definitely clean the loop more often than once a year but I dont think I would replace the tubing still because if it all is going to leech it's throwing money away unless it discolors or stops reacting....

I will say I've had the advanced lrt from primochill dunno if they make it in uv but in the last two years I've only had a little plasticizer on the fittings and some of the small crevices of the blocks and not at each teardown and nothing that would clog or effect temperatures...maybe a teaspoon size altogether in six or seven teardowns...and by that I mean if a teaspoon was 2d not like a filled up one


----------



## michael-ocn

How can i tell which kind of tubing my h240x has? Seems like they've swapped around what kind of tubing is used a few times now, i see both pvc and epdm listed on swiftechs site for different aio models. I bought mine last sept/octr and it has flat black tubing.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> How can i tell which kind of tubing my h240x has? Seems like they've swapped around what kind of tubing is used a few times now, i see both pvc and epdm listed on swiftechs site for different aio models. I bought mine last sept/octr and it has flat black tubing.


The one I brought from swiftech is the black ones (5/8x3/8) Its suppose to be the one they use in the H2**x model..But any good brand would do. I got the clear and the black one.. Am hoping to get rid of the green stuff in my loop so I can use the clear one..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> How can i tell which kind of tubing my h240x has? Seems like they've swapped around what kind of tubing is used a few times now, i see both pvc and epdm listed on swiftechs site for different aio models. I bought mine last sept/octr and it has flat black tubing.


Flat black is plasticizer free. The shiny black is the tubing that had an issue.


----------



## mcnumpty23

got a small leak from my h240-x

somewhere at the left hand end of the reservoir near the bottom

any one else had that and managed to fix it with out having to go through all the rma process?


----------



## gdubc

The shiny black tubing was absolute crap. I changed mine out with zmt before installing and the tubes and even the barbs had a plasticizer coating. This was a new, out of the box unit that had never been run before.


----------



## arnavvr

I lost some of the mounting hardware on my h320, can I buy it anywhere?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arnavvr*
> 
> I lost some of the mounting hardware on my h320, can I buy it anywhere?


Yes, from Swiftech. http://www.swiftech.com/mountinghardware.aspx


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does anyone know where I can a new cold plate? I queried Swiftech support and they have not replied about getting the cold plate separate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can a new cold plate? I queried Swiftech support and they have not replied about getting the cold plate separate.


You will likely have to purchase the whole block. Given that the cost difference would be extremely minimal, and that they are assembled overseas, I would very much doubt that they sell the cold plate individually as a part.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You will likely have to purchase the whole block. Given that the cost difference would be extremely minimal, and that they are assembled overseas, I would very much doubt that they sell the cold plate individually as a part.


I hope not. I queried them for possible warranty coverage and they asked for a pic. Since it is all connected up and in my system I didn't want to tear it down again. So I asked if I could purchase one separately, and so far no response.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I hope not. I queried them for possible warranty coverage and they asked for a pic. Since it is all connected up and in my system I didn't want to tear it down again. So I asked if I could purchase one separately, and so far no response.


what did you do to the cold plate?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> what did you do to the cold plate?


Nothing. When I was cleaning the loop out I noticed that many of the fins on the cold plate are not evenly spaced apart with many of them touching. Them touching will reduce flow through them and may be why the cooling efficiency has dropped a little recently, My temps at idle are a few degress lower since I cleaned out the loop but the temps have been rising faster when under load. They used to progress higher more slowly and cap off at a lower temp.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nothing. When I was cleaning the loop out I noticed that many of the fins on the cold plate are not evenly spaced apart with many of them touching. Them touching will reduce flow through them and may be why the cooling efficiency has dropped a little recently, My temps at idle are a few degress lower since I cleaned out the loop but the temps have been rising faster when under load. They used to progress higher more slowly and cap off at a lower temp.


Here is the thing - they didn't get bent or change during use, so this would not be the cause of a performance change. They are in the same condition (regarding position) that they were in when you purchased the unit, so flow rate has not changed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Here is the thing - they didn't get bent or change during use, so this would not be the cause of a performance change. They are in the same condition (regarding position) that they were in when you purchased the unit, so flow rate has not changed.


Well the residue on them may have more to do with the flow than anything. I did my best cleaning them off with a vinegar/water mix and then with soap and water. Though I got it pretty clean there was still some staining and there may be some clogging in between the fins that I can't see (nor clean off) due to the fins touching. FYI I also ran the sysprep in the loop for a little more than 24hrs.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well the residue on them may have more to do with the flow than anything. I did my best cleaning them off with a vinegar/water mix and then with soap and water. Though I got it pretty clean there was still some staining and there may be some clogging in between the fins that I can't see (nor clean off) due to the fins touching. FYI I also ran the sysprep in the loop for a little more than 24hrs.


I blasted the fins with a some compressed air to push whatever junk might have been in there out. The staining doesn't really matter. But coldplate orientation might, due to asymmetrical fin irregularities, flow in one direction might be better than flow in the other direction? If you reassembled with the plate rotated 180 degrees, that could (maybe) possibly explain the difference in performance you're seeing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Ah, it's a descaler too. Thnx. I'll keep this in mind for next time, I expect there'll be a next time, some boiling water may be involved next time too.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> This is why I get so baffled about people not simply springing the $10 for a good coolant concentrate. Biocide, anti-corrosive and anti-scaling all premeasured for you. People run distilled water like it is some strange badge of honor, and spend $20 trying to formulate what is already done in the concentrates.
Click to expand...

Huh? I'll ask you the same why waste 10 or 20 spend 5 on one bottle of pt nuke/iandh dead water that will last year's and 1$ on a bottle of distilled.

(Or 2 bottles per loop on my case )

Works better.

De -* anything not needed, cleaner, not needed, anti corrosive if needed in today's world of water cooling you are doing something wrong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> my original time on refilling a loop took me several hours. now if I want to top something off, it takes a few minutes for me. If its replacing the liquid entirely, maybe like half an hour at most. If someone doesn't have the time to spend half an hour on something, custom water cooling probably isn't the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> A half hour is just refilling the loop. It takes a bit of time to do that on the H240-X. Plus with my system I have to pull it out and remove the case fan guard on top.
> At the fastest it will take more than 30 minutes to do mine here, probably double that at the very minimum.
Click to expand...

Ha ha I'll trade you, mine takes a week, and several months to quiet down...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The tubing....change the tubing. EK ZMT would be best for preventing this from ever happening again. Mod My Toys Dreamflex and Primochill Advanced LRT are better choices than what comes stock, also.
> Do you want to let that ride, or will you be cashing in your winnings now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that a general rule of thumb, to change your tubing out when you clean and flush the system at least once a year or so?
Click to expand...

No you can, but not need, mostly done for looks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I blasted the fins with a some compressed air to push whatever junk might have been in there out. The staining doesn't really matter. But coldplate orientation might, due to asymmetrical fin irregularities, flow in one direction might be better than flow in the other direction? If you reassembled with the plate rotated 180 degrees, that could (maybe) possibly explain the difference in performance you're seeing.


Nope, I made sure it went back the exact same way I took it off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Huh? I'll ask you the same why waste 10 or 20 spend 5 on one bottle of pt nuke/iandh dead water that will last year's and 1$ on a bottle of distilled.
> 
> (Or 2 bottles per loop on my case )
> 
> Works better.
> 
> De -* anything not needed, cleaner, not needed, anti corrosive if needed in today's world of water cooling you are doing something wrong
> Ha ha I'll trade you, mine takes a week, and several months to quiet down...


How big is your loop?

That would suck for me here, all that time without my baby,,,


----------



## AsterFenix

The pump in the original H-240X is failing for me. Heard really weird noise going from the pump. Can I swap it out? How about can I add a pump to the loop and turn off the pump of the H240-X?


----------



## AsterFenix

Double post. SOrry


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsterFenix*
> 
> The pump in the original H-240X is failing for me. Heard really weird noise going from the pump. Can I swap it out? How about can I add a pump to the loop and turn off the pump of the H240-X?


yes you could add a pump and turn off the h240-x pump

have tested this using a mcp355 pump i have as back up wasnt really any difference in temperatures from just using the h240-x pump

except the mcp355 ran at full speed all the time


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsterFenix*
> 
> The pump in the original H-240X is failing for me. Heard really weird noise going from the pump. Can I swap it out? How about can I add a pump to the loop and turn off the pump of the H240-X?


Yes, the MCP50X will bolt right into the existing housing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I blasted the fins with a some compressed air to push whatever junk might have been in there out. The staining doesn't really matter. But coldplate orientation might, due to asymmetrical fin irregularities, flow in one direction might be better than flow in the other direction? If you reassembled with the plate rotated 180 degrees, that could (maybe) possibly explain the difference in performance you're seeing.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, I made sure it went back the exact same way I took it off.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Huh? I'll ask you the same why waste 10 or 20 spend 5 on one bottle of pt nuke/iandh dead water that will last year's and 1$ on a bottle of distilled.
> 
> (Or 2 bottles per loop on my case )
> 
> Works better.
> 
> De -* anything not needed, cleaner, not needed, anti corrosive if needed in today's world of water cooling you are doing something wrong
> Ha ha I'll trade you, mine takes a week, and several months to quiet down...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How big is your loop?
> 
> That would suck for me here, all that time without my baby,,,
Click to expand...

*that* loop is 5 480s ( 3 monstas, 1 ut60 and 1 xt30 ) and a 400mm res

another one is 5 360s ( all monstas ) and another 400 mm res

all are quad gpu, cpu, mobos under water

wait till i get my tx10 running dual loops ---- 7+ 480 monstas *each* loop ! ( or so ) i so cant wait !


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *that* loop is 5 480s ( 3 monstas, 1 ut60 and 1 xt30 ) and a 400mm res
> 
> another one is 5 360s ( all monstas ) and another 400 mm res
> 
> all are quad gpu, cpu, mobos under water
> 
> wait till i get my tx10 running dual loops ---- 7+ 480 monstas *each* loop ! ( or so ) i so cant wait !


But why so much? Does it make any difference for performance or is it just because you can?


----------



## Mega Man

because one is a m8 +ped, one th10 and the dual loops that will be ( already have the case ) is a tx10 and i will be getting ~ 3 ped for it.

do i need it.... no, do i want it, yes !

overkill is epic !

other news

my h220 was giving me issues so i took it down for maint, did a full acrylic build with it,

was fun !


----------



## michael-ocn

I started an experiment today. I set a small jar of liquid in well lit bay window. The jar is full of the left over concentrate+distilled that I used for my recent refill. It sat in open air for a while, but now the lid is on. I'm curious to see if anything starts growing in there or not. I give it till the end of the summer to see.


----------



## AsterFenix

Did anyone try disassembly the h-240X to remove the reservoir? It's a hell to bleed with that reservoir. And any reservoir placed under it seems to never be able to bleed due to air being trapped on the top reservoir in the H-240X.


----------



## wes1099

Are there any pump tops that work with the MCP30 pump in the H220-x? I need a pump for a chilled water cooled build but I can't have a radiator, and I don't want to spend $80 on a pump if I don't have to.


----------



## VSG

Only the MCP50X top, and you can only buy it with the pump itself for now.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Yes, i have and it is a pain in the arse. I found that when filling the loop it is easier to do it out side the system and leave the funnel in. Once I get to a certain point I will cycle power to the unit several times, when it shuts off some air jumps to the fill port and I add a little water if necessary. It is a slow and tedious process but it works.

*Update on my loop*
The tubing is turning green again already. Temps are great but that clear tubing turning green is not good, At this point I am not sure what it could be. I am wondering now if that is either from the biocide I am using or possibly from the cooper on the cooling plate.

Is it safe to use a little silver in the h240-X with biocide?


----------



## Balsagna

So I got my h320 x2 prestige yesterday... well, supposed to be prestige.......

Performance pcs shipped the non prestige edition and I paid for it. Like, the packing slip has all these initials with people saying they picked it out, verified its right, etc etc.

Clearly they didn't even bother reading box where it says "prestige" on it. That's a $70 difference I just paid for, and I don't want to ship it back or wait another week of down time on my pc. Yet I'm going to so annoyed that I'm using something I didn't want.

Unless they ship me and pay for return shipping after the I get new (correct product)


----------



## Mega Man

I don't think it is their problem *if* you open it, because you are in a rush. They made 1 mistake, they should pay shipping to and from. But they should not take a used product back

if you talk to them they will take care of it I am sure


----------



## Balsagna

Of course it was opened, no used. I pulled it out of the box to notice the helix fans... not the eloop.

Put it back in box. Buthe still, to ship it off to them, wait for it to get there, then send me the correct product is going to take another 2 weeks basically.

They will do standard ground shipping, aka 5 days to get to them from where I'm at. Then another 5 days back.


----------



## Balsagna

Also. It wasn't 1 mistake, it was 3 people making same mistake of not reading a box.

Says it in the signature they signed


----------



## Mega Man

OK, I will elaborate by opened I mean used, not "opening the box" as to three signatures sorry but people make mistakes, sounds to me like whining


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OK, I will elaborate by opened I mean used, not "opening the box" as to three signatures sorry but people make mistakes, sounds to me like whining


If the company takes care of it, then I am okay. But the customer shouldn't be the one who has to deal with incompetence like that by waiting 2 weeks, after already 3 weeks from another company.

Of course I'm aggravated. I freelance Web Development, this down time has cost me a lot of time, and in the thousands of $ already, because a couple companies can't get their crap together. And a company had 3 different employees verifying a customer's order, 3 different times and still can't do it right.

Damn right I'm going whine about that. Lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> If the company takes care of it, then I am okay. But the customer shouldn't be the one who has to deal with incompetence like that by waiting 2 weeks, after already 3 weeks from another company.
> 
> Of course I'm aggravated. I freelance Web Development, this down time has cost me a lot of time, and in the thousands of $ already, because a couple companies can't get their crap together. And a company had 3 different employees verifying a customer's order, 3 different times and still can't do it right.
> 
> Damn right I'm going whine about that. Lol


Seems wiith you it's absolutes with problems being someone else's fault. If your business is so important and makes so much Some of us call people who do no wrong and blame others 'professional victims'


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Seems wiith you it's absolutes with problems being someone else's fault. If your business is so important and makes so much Some of us call people who do no wrong and blame others 'professional victims'


That makes no sense what so ever. Over the course of a month, I've had nothing but issues out of my workstation after I upgraded it where it ran without an issue for over 4 straight years. Not one, not a single day of down time outside of power outtages.

Upgrade, get a leaked raijintek. Sure, they took care of it and can't be happier, outside of the part where it takes them 2 weeks now and I'm still without replacement parts.

And performance pcs. Who has 3 employees, who can't read a piece of paper, or a box. Aka a label.

No, this has nothing to do with personal, or professional victims. This is incompetence by performance pcs staff.

Just because in a freelancer, doesn't mean I have a Ferrari. You miss the fact that we have deadlines we have to meet, our own customers we have to please. And this down time, is costing them, which costs me. Freelance income isn't as steady. One month you might make 10000$, but that's it for 4 months.

Dealing with you, you just seem to never dig deeper than the surface


----------



## mcnumpty23

so still got a small leak from my h240-x

any one know whats likely the cause?

funnily its worse when the pc is off

leaking or collecting at the point of the yellow arrow


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Dealing with you, you just seem to never dig deeper than the surface


At least what you call my 'surface' has a backup in case of problems, has good air cooling, but a CLC would not lower temps much if any at all.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> If the company takes care of it, then I am okay. But the customer shouldn't be the one who has to deal with incompetence like that by waiting 2 weeks, after already 3 weeks from another company.
> 
> Of course I'm aggravated. I freelance Web Development, this down time has cost me a lot of time, and in the thousands of $ already, because a couple companies can't get their crap together. And a company had 3 different employees verifying a customer's order, 3 different times and still can't do it right.
> 
> Damn right I'm going whine about that. Lol


You have every right to! I'd be upset at this point also and seeing as how it was supposedly checked 3 times each by a different person that makes it all the more upsetting. Sounds to me like they really only just sign the sheet without even looking it over. Then again if they actually did that for every shipment then it would probably really slow the shipping process down. Again, I agree with you but so far my experience with their customer service is nothing but great. No company is so good as to never have a problem with any products or shipping. Some people never experience any problems with a company but some others do all the time.

Though I think they should ship you the replacement unit while the incorrect one is being shipped back to them. That is what Amazon has done for me in the past as an example.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> so still got a small leak from my h240-x
> 
> any one know whats likely the cause?
> 
> funnily its worse when the pc is off
> 
> leaking or collecting at the point of the yellow arrow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There is a good chance the seal around the window is leaking. It could also be the seal around the fill port though it is on the other end of the tank. I would pull the unit out and cycle it on and off to see if you can get a better idea of where the leak is actually coming from.


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Only the MCP50X top, and you can only buy it with the pump itself for now.


Yeah that is all I could come up with after googling around. I will probably just buy one of those Topsflo TDC pumps that you just reviewed on your site. They are relatively cheap and don't seem too bad.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ok, I am not sure if this is bad or what. In certain light the tubing looks greenish, but in others it does not.
Here are some pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









If you notice in one pic they have a blueish tint to them and that is because I have the LED's under my desk on white and as bright as they can get.
In the other two pics I am shinning a flashlight on the tubing at two different angles. In those two pics you can clearly see a green tint.

The thing to note is that these are blue UV tubing. Also note that I am using the Mayhems XT-1 clear biocide. So far temps are normal.

So do you think I need to clean and flush my loop out a third time and maybe put some of the purse silver in the loop?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Yeah that is all I could come up with after googling around. I will probably just buy one of those Topsflo TDC pumps that you just reviewed on your site. They are relatively cheap and don't seem too bad.


Sounds good. I would love to know how it works for you, and also about the long term reliability.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At last what you call my 'surface' and a backup in case of problems, has good air cooling, and a CLC would not lower temps much if any at all.


I'm sorry that you're still butt hurt how I can logically make a valid purchase of a CLC 4 years ago from not even an aio, but a full loop for that matter.

Also, your air cooling would be rubbish even to a CLC, depending on what area of the world you live in. Just saying, I am stationed in san antonio, Texas. It's pretty hot here.... and I did the whole air cooling temporarily while changing builds

Yeah, didn't work out in 100+degree temps

Also, sorry buddy, but my processor over clocked higher with lower voltage practically same cpu (2600k vs 2700k), thus the temps were better to achieve what I wanted. Even in comparison to the full loop, especially when I was teaching a target of 70c.

Now if you want to get into that sound argument, both setups were nearly inaudible at around 1200 to 1500 rpm, with only 1c difference in temps. Holy cow, you must have a huge vendetta against CLCs, cause people actually have use for them that air cant handle, and doesn't warrant a full loop to cover.

But here we are: in a thread about a product not even related to anything you or I mention, outside of how ppcs, can't read lol


----------



## wes1099

Anyone know why my clear tubing has turned yellow?


----------



## Mega Man

it happens, your tubing will never stay the same color unless you get rubber tubing


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry that you're still butt hurt how I can logically make a valid purchase of a CLC 4 years ago from not even an aio, but a full loop for that matter.
> 
> Also, your air cooling would be rubbish even to a CLC, depending on what area of the world you live in. Just saying, I am stationed in san antonio, Texas. It's pretty hot here.... and I did the whole air cooling temporarily while changing builds
> 
> Yeah, didn't work out in 100+degree temps
> 
> Also, sorry buddy, but my processor over clocked higher with lower voltage practically same cpu (2600k vs 2700k), thus the temps were better to achieve what I wanted. Even in comparison to the full loop, especially when I was teaching a target of 70c.
> 
> Now if you want to get into that sound argument, both setups were nearly inaudible at around 1200 to 1500 rpm, with only 1c difference in temps. Holy cow, you must have a huge vendetta against CLCs, cause people actually have use for them that air cant handle, and doesn't warrant a full loop to cover.
> 
> 
> But here we are: in a thread about a product not even related to anything you or I mention, outside of how ppcs, can't read lol


So stop cluttering the thread.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There is a good chance the seal around the window is leaking. It could also be the seal around the fill port though it is on the other end of the tank. I would pull the unit out and cycle it on and off to see if you can get a better idea of where the leak is actually coming from.


hey thanks for the reply

i have a clear view of the fill port definitely not leaking there

dont fancy taking the whole loop apart and going through RMA

guess if theres a seal around the reservoir window i will have to get creative with some instant gasket


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> hey thanks for the reply
> 
> i have a clear view of the fill port definitely not leaking there
> 
> dont fancy taking the whole loop apart and going through RMA
> 
> guess if theres a seal around the reservoir window i will have to get creative with some instant gasket


If not the fill port exactly then possibly where the reservoir and pump connect to the rad. It is directly behind the fill port and the front edge of the window. You can't see this until you remove the unit from your system.
If it is the window that is leaking then it could be cracked and it would be better just to replace the window than try and put some instant gasket around it. You still have to take the unit apart to apply the instant gasket so why not just replace the window entirely? That is if that is the case. FYI, replacement windows only cost $5.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> hey thanks for the reply
> 
> i have a clear view of the fill port definitely not leaking there
> 
> dont fancy taking the whole loop apart and going through RMA
> 
> guess if theres a seal around the reservoir window i will have to get creative with some instant gasket


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If not the fill port exactly then possibly where the reservoir and pump connect to the rad. It is directly behind the fill port and the front edge of the window. You can't see this until you remove the unit from your system.
> If it is the window that is leaking then it could be cracked and it would be better just to replace the window than try and put some instant gasket around it. You still have to take the unit apart to apply the instant gasket so why not just replace the window entirely? That is if that is the case. FYI, replacement windows only cost $5.


I would guess its the res window leaking too. Mine was cracked up and leaky as a result, but even without being cracked, there could be a problem with the intricately shaped gasket in there. I think you're going to have to pull it out and detach the pump/res assembly from the rad to take a closer look. I replaced my cracked up window about a week ago, it's pretty easy to do, installing the gasket is the trickiest part, and then refilling with liquid and bleeding the air out is a little time consuming.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> If not the fill port exactly then possibly where the reservoir and pump connect to the rad. It is directly behind the fill port and the front edge of the window. You can't see this until you remove the unit from your system.
> If it is the window that is leaking then it could be cracked and it would be better just to replace the window than try and put some instant gasket around it. You still have to take the unit apart to apply the instant gasket so why not just replace the window entirely? That is if that is the case. FYI, replacement windows only cost $5.


trying to get a replacement window or any other part in the uk is going to prove next to impossible,

i have had terrible issues in the past with bacata in france who are likely the only place i could get replacement parts from assuming swiftech authorised it--since bryan left swiftech this thread seems to see far less swiftech rep support than when he was here--he went above and beyond his job to help people

even with the help of the wonderful bryan who sadly is no longer with swiftech it took 3 months from bacata receiving my faulty h320 to me getting a replacement


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I would guess its the res window leaking too. Mine was cracked up and leaky as a result, but even without being cracked, there could be a problem with the intricately shaped gasket in there. I think you're going to have to pull it out and detach the pump/res assembly from the rad to take a closer look. I replaced my cracked up window about a week ago, it's pretty easy to do, installing the gasket is the trickiest part, and then refilling with liquid and bleeding the air out is a little time consuming.


was it cracked where it would be visible looking at the window?

got plenty space in my pc case so can get a clear look at the window and the fillport

just anything behind that or around the pump area i would need to pull it out to look

edited--and refilling and bleeding is no problem as added a reservoir to allow doing that--as i really dislike the

position of the fillport


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So stop cluttering the thread.


My post was actually on topic, in relation to h320 x2.

What about your surface scratching posts?

Anyways... performance pcs acknowledged the screw ups and is over nighting correct product today, as I ship theirs back.

So, glad they took care of that.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> *was it cracked where it would be visible looking at the window?*
> 
> got plenty space in my pc case so can get a clear look at the window and the fillport
> 
> just anything behind that or around the pump area i would need to pull it out to look
> 
> edited--and refilling and bleeding is no problem as added a reservoir to allow doing that--as i really dislike the
> 
> position of the fillport


Partially. There was one crack that was visible with the res mounted in the rad-frame, but there were more cracks that were obscured from view. The big crack on the bottom right that spans the gasket was visible, I didn't know about the others until taking it apart, including the big one in the top left that also spans the gasket.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> trying to get a replacement window or any other part in the uk is going to prove next to impossible,
> 
> i have had terrible issues in the past with bacata in france who are likely the only place i could get replacement parts from assuming swiftech authorised it--since bryan left swiftech this thread seems to see far less swiftech rep support than when he was here--he went above and beyond his job to help people
> 
> even with the help of the wonderful bryan who sadly is no longer with swiftech it took 3 months from bacata receiving my faulty h320 to me getting a replacement


Maybe try emailing swiftech support directly? If you cant get them to send you parts directly, i bet you somebody here would be willing to act as an intermediary (hint).


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Partially. There was one crack that was visible with the res mounted in the rad-frame, but there were more cracks that were obscured from view. The big crack on the bottom right that spans the gasket was visible, I didn't know about the others until taking it apart, including the big one in the top left that also spans the gasket.
> 
> 
> Maybe try emailing swiftech support directly? If you cant get them to send you parts directly, i bet you somebody here would be willing to act as an intermediary (hint).


yeah might try emailing them directly

even going through a helpful intermediary in the usa and picking the cheapest postage option--assuming theres no import charge as well--its around $21 or £15 for the replacement window

see no reason i should have to pay to replace a faulty part

had contact with scan.co.uk where i bought it and big thumbs up to them--no contact the manufacturer its their responsibility from scan--straight up we sold it to you we will fix you up--sadly though they dont have any in stock and have no idea how soon they will get any so cant replace it--but within 5 minutes of live chat they offered a full refund

great job scan.co.uk --but that would mean my whole system down for around a week while i return it to them and order a pump/radiator/cpu block and wait for that to arrive

i would much rather repair the h240-x which should have me up and running the same day

as its only a very small leak (at the moment any way) i havent had to shut down so far


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> My post was actually on topic, in relation to h320 x2.
> 
> What about your surface scratching posts?
> 
> Anyways... performance pcs acknowledged the screw ups and is over nighting correct product today, as I ship theirs back.
> 
> So, glad they took care of that.


always keep a backup even if it's a cheap air cooler...if your business is/was that important that should've been a consideration....good to see they are taking care of you though and hopefully it works well for you...ppcs February works with you pretty well...swiftechs customer service has always been stellar and it's what convinced me to buy swiftech blocks for my gpus instead of another brand...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> yeah might try emailing them directly
> 
> even going through a helpful intermediary in the usa and picking the cheapest postage option--assuming theres no import charge as well--its around $21 or £15 for the replacement window
> 
> *see no reason i should have to pay to replace a faulty part
> *
> had contact with scan.co.uk where i bought it and big thumbs up to them--no contact the manufacturer its their responsibility from scan--straight up we sold it to you we will fix you up--sadly though they dont have any in stock and have no idea how soon they will get any so cant replace it--but within 5 minutes of live chat they offered a full refund
> 
> great job scan.co.uk --but that would mean my whole system down for around a week while i return it to them and order a pump/radiator/cpu block and wait for that to arrive
> 
> i would much rather repair the h240-x which should have me up and running the same day
> 
> as its only a very small leak (at the moment any way) i havent had to shut down so far


They sent me a window and a little repair kit at no charge: the window, a 3" filltube, mini funnel, small bottle of clear coolant concentrate, small tube of tim-mate, and instructions. Worked out great.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> They sent me a window and a little repair kit at no charge: the window, a 3" filltube, mini funnel, small bottle of clear coolant concentrate, small tube of tim-mate, and instructions. Worked out great.


that was good of them

though get the feeling i will get referred to bacata and they will probably want the whole unit rather than just send out a window dont think they do individual parts

quoted from swiftech website

"Swiftech does not sell direct to consumers outside of the United States. Accordingly, Swiftech does not provide direct-to-consumer warranty support outside of the United States."


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> My post was actually on topic, in relation to h320 x2.
> 
> What about your surface scratching posts?
> 
> Anyways... performance pcs acknowledged the screw ups and is over nighting correct product today, as I ship theirs back.
> 
> So, glad they took care of that.


Like I said before;
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So stop cluttering the thread.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like I said before;


I'm not cluttering when I was on topic, quit replying, quoting. You're not serving any other than my humor.. We have a saying in the military, shut up and color.

Try it sometime








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> always keep a backup even if it's a cheap air cooler...if your business is/was that important that should've been a consideration....good to see they are taking care of you though and hopefully it works well for you...ppcs February works with you pretty well...swiftechs customer service has always been stellar and it's what convinced me to buy swiftech blocks for my gpus instead of another brand...


Backup would of been no good unless I have a whole setup. The old cooler (expandable aio) leaked and fried the motherboard and dual 980 ti.

Ppcs took care of the shipping issues. 1 day delivery, discount on next item and then a shirt! Now I just need the other company to quit being incompetent and we would be up again


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I'm not cluttering when I was on topic, quit replying, quoting. You're not serving any other than my humor.. We have a saying in the military, shut up and color.
> 
> Try it sometime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backup would of been no good unless I have a whole setup. The old cooler (expandable aio) leaked and fried the motherboard and dual 980 ti.
> 
> Ppcs took care of the shipping issues. 1 day delivery, discount on next item and then a shirt! Now I just need the other company to quit being incompetent and we would be up again


ouch...it took it all? That's rough I can see why you are upset more now...(I assume you meant the cooler before the swiftech) I think if I had a computer that was required for work it would definitely be on air...I wouldn't risk having an issue like what you had...I don't do anything mission critical on my setup...That said if I had a leak it would be all she wrote for at least six months..if it took the main components like that...this us why I check my pc every chance I get to make sure everything running smooth with no leaks....I run it hard stressing and let it heat up then check for leaks while it's stressing...so far I've caught one mishap where a fitting had backed off a turn and a half but no leaking so can't complain


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I'm not cluttering when I was on topic, quit replying, quoting. You're not serving any other than my humor.. We have a saying in the military, shut up and color.
> 
> Try it sometime


Ditto


----------



## Imprezzion

This is getting quite curious..

A week ago or something I posted about my pump being broken again and the block being filled with plasticizer crud.

I wanted to RMA my unit and sent a message to Dango, the swiftech hardware rep on OCN.
Also sent a message directly to Bacata's service email since they're the EU RMA center for Swiftech.

Both my messages are getting completely ignored however.. No reply in a week from the rep on here while he's been online plenty of times ( according to his profile) and Bacata also doesn't reply at all..

I'll contact my original reseller for a RMA even tho the 2 year reseller warranty has passed.. The 3 year factory warranty hasn't so.. Maybe they will help me..


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> This is getting quite curious..
> 
> A week ago or something I posted about my pump being broken again and the block being filled with plasticizer crud.
> 
> I wanted to RMA my unit and sent a message to Dango, the swiftech hardware rep on OCN.
> Also sent a message directly to Bacata's service email since they're the EU RMA center for Swiftech.
> 
> Both my messages are getting completely ignored however.. No reply in a week from the rep on here while he's been online plenty of times ( according to his profile) and Bacata also doesn't reply at all..
> 
> I'll contact my original reseller for a RMA even tho the 2 year reseller warranty has passed.. The 3 year factory warranty hasn't so.. Maybe they will help me..


from bacata that doesnt surprise me when i had a problem before they just totally ignored me for weeks then tried to tell me they had already posted the unit yet when it finally arrived 3 months after them receiving my unit the postage mark was 5 days after they told me it had been sent

and that was with bryan from swiftech also chasing them up


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> This is getting quite curious..
> 
> A week ago or something I posted about my pump being broken again and the block being filled with plasticizer crud.
> 
> I wanted to RMA my unit and sent a message to Dango, the swiftech hardware rep on OCN.
> Also sent a message directly to Bacata's service email since they're the EU RMA center for Swiftech.
> 
> Both my messages are getting completely ignored however.. No reply in a week from the rep on here while he's been online plenty of times ( according to his profile) and Bacata also doesn't reply at all..
> 
> I'll contact my original reseller for a RMA even tho the 2 year reseller warranty has passed.. The 3 year factory warranty hasn't so.. Maybe they will help me..


User's here got spoiled by Bryan's responsiveness to PMs. While that was good for the user, the fact is that OCN is not Swiftech's listed customer service contact. All of the ways to contact them correctly for customer service are listed here - http://www.swiftech.com/contact-us.aspx


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> User's here got spoiled by Bryan's responsiveness to PMs. While that was good for the user, the fact is that OCN is not Swiftech's listed customer service contact. All of the ways to contact them correctly for customer service are listed here - http://www.swiftech.com/contact-us.aspx


yes thats true--bryan went far beyond what he actually had to do--which was great for the reputation of swiftech i may add

but i have been where the poster is now with bacata just point blank refusing to answer emails

even though i put read receipts on them so knew they had been received and opened

so what do you do when the official customer service contact blanks you?

in the end i left a very negative post on swiftech facebook page--which to their credit they didnt remove its still there today

but that finally seemed to get the job done


----------



## Imprezzion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> User's here got spoiled by Bryan's responsiveness to PMs. While that was good for the user, the fact is that OCN is not Swiftech's listed customer service contact. All of the ways to contact them correctly for customer service are listed here - http://www.swiftech.com/contact-us.aspx


My first RMA was dealt with by Bryan as wel and it was amazingly well handled indeed.

Bacata ignoring me this time doesn't really suprise me either but yeah..

I sent a mail directly to [email protected] now even tho that's not the EU center to see if they can help me speed up the process a bit.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> My first RMA was dealt with by Bryan as wel and it was amazingly well handled indeed.
> 
> Bacata ignoring me this time doesn't really suprise me either but yeah..
> 
> I sent a mail directly to [email protected] now even tho that's not the EU center to see if they can help me speed up the process a bit.


Sometimes emailing the company directly can get better results, but not always.

The doc from Mazimum PC used to tackle cases like poor responsiveness back in the day but I have not seen him do anything of the like in more recent issues. You could try querying him to see if he would research the issue, it is a long shot though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> This is getting quite curious..
> 
> A week ago or something I posted about my pump being broken again and the block being filled with plasticizer crud.
> 
> I wanted to RMA my unit and sent a message to Dango, the swiftech hardware rep on OCN.
> Also sent a message directly to Bacata's service email since they're the EU RMA center for Swiftech.
> 
> Both my messages are getting completely ignored however.. No reply in a week from the rep on here while he's been online plenty of times ( according to his profile) and Bacata also doesn't reply at all..
> 
> I'll contact my original reseller for a RMA even tho the 2 year reseller warranty has passed.. The 3 year factory warranty hasn't so.. Maybe they will help me..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> User's here got spoiled by Bryan's responsiveness to PMs. While that was good for the user, the fact is that OCN is not Swiftech's listed customer service contact. All of the ways to contact them correctly for customer service are listed here - http://www.swiftech.com/contact-us.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> My first RMA was dealt with by Bryan as wel and it was amazingly well handled indeed.
> 
> Bacata ignoring me this time doesn't really suprise me either but yeah..
> 
> I sent a mail directly to [email protected] now even tho that's not the EU center to see if they can help me speed up the process a bit.
Click to expand...

the new rep may not check inboxes, i know they probably get swamped quick :/


----------



## Balsagna

I redact my ppcs statement. They shipped the wrong part back with usps 1 day, and is shipping the correct product via ups ground.

Looks like I will be without the complete build until next tuesday.

If I knew theyes were going to do this, I would have ordered from amazon with a refund. Cheaper and quicker, but I wanted that dragon editon mod to the plate on the block.

Lessons learned.

I let them know that if they are going to be in such a hurry to get a product back, they should give same honor in return, especially after they were the ones who screwed up. I'm tempted to just do a return package to them and just buy from another vendor.


----------



## Mega Man

and people wonder why more companies dont do this ... i hate people who take advantage of companies


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and people wonder why more companies dont do this ... i hate people who take advantage of companies


What am I doing wrong? Its one thing if one person made the mistake when picking it out and shipping it. There was 4 individuals didn't pass quality controll when shipping it out. It was even "modded" so the person got it out of the and would have noticed. If he checked the slip.

They are already price gouge a bit on shipping. The box weighs under 8.5 pounds, but they charge for 13. That's actually a decent upgrade in price there.

I'm being logical here. They gave me the assumption to hurry to ship it back to them (done within 45 min of them giving me the label to return it to them) with impression that they were going to usps 1 day back to actually fix what happened.

Decide to ship one more day out, ups ground 5 days they aren't in a hurry to fix a mistake. They, wanted the part back quick, so they can resale it and keep flow going.

Literally, I could have said refund. Here's your part, ordered elsewhere and be up and running tomorrow. Why would I not do that, knowing the situation? False impressions.

Again, learned my lesson. I won't deal with their returns. Maybe not even shop there anymore. I've shopped plenty at frozen and other sites. Haven't had an issue with them. Use a "well known" company, that gouges on shipping by a percent and can't get qc under wraps with a support group saying "we are soooo sorry. Let's get you taken care of with 1 day shipping to us, 5 days to you"

Yes. I'm mad. Hope you can tell


----------



## michael-ocn

I agree, that is pretty crummy to insinuate they'll use hurry it up shipping all around, but then only use it for the returned item and not the replacement item. Deception does not deserve customer loyalty.


----------



## Balsagna

Agreed. It's not like I have a vendetta with everyone. Just raijintek replacement and performance pcs. The staff is nice on both endsx and while I'm gettign taken care of, it's being done in either a don't care, get over it, or let's not make sense with an April 18th delivery date (raijintek) just to save 10$


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Partially. There was one crack that was visible with the res mounted in the rad-frame, but there were more cracks that were obscured from view. The big crack on the bottom right that spans the gasket was visible, I didn't know about the others until taking it apart, including the big one in the top left that also spans the gasket.
> 
> 
> Maybe try emailing swiftech support directly? If you cant get them to send you parts directly, i bet you somebody here would be willing to act as an intermediary (hint).


hey guess what?

same as yours crack that wasnt visible until dismantled it--started from one of the screw holes and crossed to the outside of the gasket/rubber --this looks like a design flaw to me looks like the slightest over tightening of those little screws during assembly would cause micro fractures that steadily get worse over time from the pump vibration

and the thing had leaked onto my backup mcp355 wiring just in the wrong place and its kaput now

just re-assembled everything and used instant gasket in the end up as cant get a new window in the uk

guess will find out tomorrow if the instant gasket worked or not

and sorry forgot to give you rep for your help will sort that

edited--heres where mine was--very similar to yours and only just crossed the gasket/rubber which guess explains why it was a very slow leak

only had my phone handy but image quality shouldnt be too bad

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/crack_zpsvg5hpqjq.jpg.html


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> hey guess what?
> 
> same as yours crack that wasnt visible until dismantled it--started from one of the screw holes and crossed to the outside of the gasket/rubber --*this looks like a design flaw to me* looks like the slightest over tightening of those little screws during assembly would cause micro fractures that steadily get worse over time from the pump vibration
> 
> and the thing had leaked onto my backup mcp355 wiring just in the wrong place and its kaput now
> 
> just re-assembled everything and used instant gasket in the end up as cant get a new window in the uk
> 
> guess will find out tomorrow if the instant gasket worked or not
> 
> and sorry forgot to give you rep for your help will sort that


Yup, the acrylic material used is too brittle. I'd rather a more robust plastic, non-transparent like derlin if need be, with a much small transparent water level sighting window permanently cemented into the piece. Or maybe there are more robust transparent plastics.

I hope it holds for you.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yup, the acrylic material used is too brittle. I'd rather a more robust plastic, non-transparent like derlin if need be, with a much small transparent water level sighting window permanently cemented into the piece. Or maybe there are more robust transparent plastics.
> 
> I hope it holds for you.


thanks so do i --did your rep

saw a swiftech rep on here 10 minutes ago but no comment from them about this

just joined the swiftech forums will post there and see if any chance of getting a new window sent out

got no hope with the fact it leaked on my back up pumps wiring in just the wrong place--no doubt you wont be covered for that in the small print

lucky it was an older mcp355 and nothing too expensive


----------



## doyll

It would not be at all surprising if this plastic window cracking is the result of manufacturer not making these coolers to Swiftech's original specifications.

Maybe some of you know this, but it is common practice for manufacturers (especially in the far east) to makea contract to build to certain specifications, then use cheaper/lower cost components/materials than original is made of .. cheaper plastic, lower quality bearings, less pure metal, etc.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It would not be at all surprising if this plastic window cracking is the result of manufacturer not making these coolers to Swiftech's original specifications.
> 
> Maybe some of you know this, but it is common practice for manufacturers (especially in the far east) to makea contract to build to certain specifications, then use cheaper/lower cost components/materials than original is made of .. cheaper plastic, lower quality bearings, less pure metal, etc.


never occurred to me to be honest

though that would mean replacement windows would be made of the same stuff?

still waiting a reply in the swiftech forum


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> never occurred to me to be honest
> 
> though that would mean replacement windows would be made of the same stuff?
> 
> still waiting a reply in the swiftech forum


Usually once the company (not manufacturer) finds out their product has be 'compromised' but manufacturer they replace with better quality component. How soon good replacements are available varies. It depends on how quickly the source of the problem is determined. Sometimes there are several possible reasons for the problem which means it may take a couple tries to isolate the actual problem.

For example, this window problem could be a glue composition reacting with plasitc, bad plastic, improper assembly, technique, metal frame it mount into not flat, etc.

Obviously I don't know exactly what the problem is or what is best way to resolve it. I'm only trying to explain how this sort of thing can happen to even the best companies. This is because few if any companies make all their own products in their own factories. Even those that do manufacture some of their product still have to buy supplies and components from others.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Usually once the company (not manufacturer) finds out their product has be 'compromised' but manufacturer they replace with better quality component. How soon good replacements are available varies. It depends on how quickly the source of the problem is determined. Sometimes there are several possible reasons for the problem which means it may take a couple tries to isolate the actual problem.
> 
> For example, this window problem could be a glue composition reacting with plasitc, bad plastic, improper assembly, technique, metal frame it mount into not flat, etc.
> 
> Obviously I don't know exactly what the problem is or what is best way to resolve it. I'm only trying to explain how this sort of thing can happen to even the best companies. This is because few if any companies make all their own products in their own factories. Even those that do manufacture some of their product still have to buy supplies and components from others.


yes that makes sense

having dismantled it and had a look

my gut feeling is either the plastic/acrylic is too brittle or some of the screws are being over tightened or a combination of both

i believe the screwdrivers used will have a torque setting but if thats slightly out it could be enough

the actual window is of a decent thickness so cant see the thickness being an issue


----------



## mcnumpty23

have re-assembled it all any way and so far my instant gasket looks to be ok--i rearranged my loop order at the same time as well

though not going to fully do the last cable tidying and put the side on for a while until confident its going to be fine or get a replacement window some how

replaced the mcp355 back up pump it leaked on with an ek revo--lovely unit but why they didnt sleeve those wires i dont know

i also added a radiator on top so if the h240-x does leak i should be able to bypass it with a lot less time and effort

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/revo_zpsxswgu4rf.jpg.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need to see what you all think on this, bad pics to follow.
About 4 or 5 weeks ago I had to clean and flush my H240-X loop because it got real cloudy in the window. I also changed out the window to a different color and put in clear UV tubing.
After getting everything done I installed it into my system and everything seemed to run fine, for at least a few days. Within in less than a week my tubing had turned green. So that weekend I went and tore my System apart again. only this time I took the cold plate apart (I noticed some of the fins were not aligned and some were touching) and scrubbed that both with vinegar and water and then soap and water. But there was still this discolored part on the copper cold plate. But it all seemed to run ok in my system. About a week ago I started noticing a slight discoloration in my tubing again (I posted it here). Just yesterday it had got so bad that I had to disassemble the loop again. This time I did everything I could to clean that cold plate up, I scrubbed it with soap and water, I used brasso on it and even ran a dremel tool over it trying to get it nice and shiny and get that discoloration in the copper out. Well I got it nice and shiny but some of that discoloration persists.I think the discoloration on the cold plate is actually corrosion and I am thinking that green tinting in the tubing is from corrosion on the copper, which was also associated with the fluid getting cloudy which was the cause/need to clean out the loop in the first place. Here a couple pics, please tell me what you think.
First a couple pics of the tubing after I removed it:



Now a horrible and blurry pic of the cold plate after cleaning it. I for some reason was unable to get a good clear pic of this. But it is much better than the one I took before I cleaned it!


Does anyone think that could be from corrosion on the cold plate or something else? I am also using the Mayhems XT-1 biocide and I am not sure if that has ever caused any problems.

Also this time I straightened out the fins on the cold plate using a razor.... and my temps are just a few degrees better than they were before.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need to see what you all think on this, bad pics to follow.
> About 4 or 5 weeks ago I had to clean and flush my H240-X loop because it got real cloudy in the window. I also changed out the window to a different color and put in clear UV tubing.
> After getting everything done I installed it into my system and everything seemed to run fine, for at least a few days. Within in less than a week my tubing had turned green. So that weekend I went and tore my System apart again. only this time I took the cold plate apart (I noticed some of the fins were not aligned and some were touching) and scrubbed that both with vinegar and water and then soap and water. But there was still this discolored part on the copper cold plate. But it all seemed to run ok in my system. About a week ago I started noticing a slight discoloration in my tubing again (I posted it here). Just yesterday it had got so bad that I had to disassemble the loop again. This time I did everything I could to clean that cold plate up, I scrubbed it with soap and water, I used brasso on it and even ran a dremel tool over it trying to get it nice and shiny and get that discoloration in the copper out. Well I got it nice and shiny but some of that discoloration persists.I think the discoloration on the cold plate is actually corrosion and I am thinking that green tinting in the tubing is from corrosion on the copper, which was also associated with the fluid getting cloudy which was the cause/need to clean out the loop in the first place. Here a couple pics, please tell me what you think.
> First a couple pics of the tubing after I removed it:
> 
> 
> 
> Now a horrible and blurry pic of the cold plate after cleaning it. I for some reason was unable to get a good clear pic of this. But it is much better than the one I took before I cleaned it!
> 
> 
> Does anyone think that could be from corrosion on the cold plate or something else? I am also using the Mayhems XT-1 biocide and I am not sure if that has ever caused any problems.
> 
> Also this time I straightened out the fins on the cold plate using a razor.... and my temps are just a few degrees better than they were before.


dont know if thats just the way the camera picked it up but that looks kind of mustard yellow to me

totally different colour from what i would expect from copper

dont know if thats just the way the camera picked it up but that looks kind of mustard yellow to me

totally different colour from what i would expect from copper[quote name="Madmaxneo" url="/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-

Now a horrible and blurry pic of the cold plate after cleaning it. I for some reason was unable to get a good clear pic of this. But it is much better than the one I took before I cleaned it!


Does anyone think that could be from corrosion on the cold plate or something else? I am also using the Mayhems XT-1 biocide and I am not sure if that has ever caused any problems.

Also this time I straightened out the fins on the cold plate using a razor.... and my temps are just a few degrees better than they were before.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I need to see what you all think on this, bad pics to follow.
> About 4 or 5 weeks ago I had to clean and flush my H240-X loop because it got real cloudy in the window. I also changed out the window to a different color and put in clear UV tubing.
> After getting everything done I installed it into my system and everything seemed to run fine, for at least a few days. Within in less than a week my tubing had turned green. So that weekend I went and tore my System apart again. only this time I took the cold plate apart (I noticed some of the fins were not aligned and some were touching) and scrubbed that both with vinegar and water and then soap and water. But there was still this discolored part on the copper cold plate. But it all seemed to run ok in my system. About a week ago I started noticing a slight discoloration in my tubing again (I posted it here). Just yesterday it had got so bad that I had to disassemble the loop again. This time I did everything I could to clean that cold plate up, I scrubbed it with soap and water, I used brasso on it and even ran a dremel tool over it trying to get it nice and shiny and get that discoloration in the copper out. Well I got it nice and shiny but some of that discoloration persists.I think the discoloration on the cold plate is actually corrosion and I am thinking that green tinting in the tubing is from corrosion on the copper, which was also associated with the fluid getting cloudy which was the cause/need to clean out the loop in the first place. Here a couple pics, please tell me what you think.
> First a couple pics of the tubing after I removed it:
> 
> 
> 
> Now a horrible and blurry pic of the cold plate after cleaning it. I for some reason was unable to get a good clear pic of this. But it is much better than the one I took before I cleaned it!
> 
> 
> Does anyone think that could be from corrosion on the cold plate or something else? I am also using the Mayhems XT-1 biocide and I am not sure if that has ever caused any problems.
> 
> Also this time I straightened out the fins on the cold plate using a razor.... and my temps are just a few degrees better than they were before.


that looks mustard coloured to me not the verdigris you associate with copper corrosion or oxidation

edit--sorry not sure why it double quoted there


----------



## mcnumpty23

why not test it by leaving some of your coolant and the biocide in a small piece of your tubing outside the pc altogether

just cork up the ends of the tubing and see what happens in the same time period

if it changes colour then its nothing to do with the loop its the tubing or the coolant


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> why not test it by leaving some of your coolant and the biocide in a small piece of your tubing outside the pc altogether
> 
> just cork up the ends of the tubing and see what happens in the same time period
> 
> if it changes colour then its nothing to do with the loop its the tubing or the coolant


Agreed. Exactly what I was going to suggest. I would very much doubt the block, rad or pump is causing this.


----------



## mcnumpty23

finding a few people used tygon tubing with mayhems stuff that turned green

you dont happen to be using tygon tubing ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> finding a few people used tygon tubing with mayhems stuff that turned green
> 
> you dont happen to be using tygon tubing ?


No I am using Danger Dans Clear UV Blue.

I will test out that idea of corking two end of a tube with some of the XT-1 added to the distilled water. For now though I will just put straight distilled water in my loop.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> No I am using Danger Dans Clear UV Blue.
> 
> I will test out that idea of corking two end of a tube with some of the XT-1 added to the distilled water. For now though I will just put straight distilled water in my loop.


I seem to recall some complaints about Danger Den clear tubing clouding up badly. Something to consider is the age of the tubing - not in that tubing doesn't keep, but that there have been quite a few advances since the Danger Den tubing was produced some years ago. It has really only been the last couple of years that mfg have really started addressing pasticizer and clouding issues directly related to computer cooling.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I seem to recall some complaints about Danger Den clear tubing clouding up badly. Something to consider is the age of the tubing - not in that tubing doesn't keep, but that there have been quite a few advances since the Danger Den tubing was produced some years ago. It has really only been the last couple of years that mfg have really started addressing pasticizer and clouding issues directly related to computer cooling.


Thanks. I am looking into order some straight clear plasticizer free tubing. I prefer the UV blue but it does not come in the plasticizer free stuff.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks. I am looking into order some straight clear plasticizer free tubing. I prefer the UV blue but it does not come in the plasticizer free stuff.


Primochill makes UV Blue in their Advanced LRT line. Not plasticizer free, but it has a great rep for not leeching. http://www.primochill.com/product-category/primochill/tubing/flexible/advanced-lrt/?filtering=1&filter_color=2750


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Primochill makes UV Blue in their Advanced LRT line. Not plasticizer free, but it has a great rep for not leeching. http://www.primochill.com/product-category/primochill/tubing/flexible/advanced-lrt/?filtering=1&filter_color=2750


I liked that so much that I went to order some. But as soon as I enter my email address to complete an order the "Place Order" button gets greyed out and does not work. I filled out all the required fields and it just doesn't work.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I liked that so much that I went to order some. But as soon as I enter my email address to complete an order the "Place Order" button gets greyed out and does not work. I filled out all the required fields and it just doesn't work.


PPC has it in stock - http://www.performance-pcs.com/pvc-soft-tubing/shopby/brand--primochill/color--uv-blue/tube-size--3-8-x-5-8-10mm-x-16mm/?


----------



## mcnumpty23

thats actually primochill lrt in my picture on previous page though obviously in a different colour than uv blue lol

i really like it--its the only tubing i have ever used-- and the colours actually better than my photo shows as my case leds overexposed my phone

camera a bit


----------



## flynna3162581

can any one tell me will the h220x prestige fit into the phanteks evolv itx and is it fully customisable ?? (fittings and or acrylic tubing)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> can any one tell me will the h220x prestige fit into the phanteks evolv itx and is it fully customisable ?? (fittings and or acrylic tubing)


I don't have the Prestige, but I have a H220-X in a Evolv-iTX with an additional 240mm radiator and gpu block.

One thing I would mention before you decide on acrylic tubing is the fill port is on the right side of the reservoir and would be difficult to fill with the loop in place. The Evolv has a slide out radiator bracket and if you use soft tubing you can slide the bracket out part way and access the fill port without having to remove any components.


----------



## Mega Man

yes it is customizable, the prestige comes with compression fittings installed

they are standard g1/4 ports however


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> can any one tell me will the h220x prestige fit into the phanteks evolv itx and is it fully customisable ?? (fittings and or acrylic tubing)


Already answered above. Other option for filler access would be to run an extension to it.


----------



## flynna3162581

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes it is customizable, the prestige comes with compression fittings installed
> 
> they are standard g1/4 ports however


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I don't have the Prestige, but I have a H220-X in a Evolv-iTX with an additional 240mm radiator and gpu block.
> 
> One thing I would mention before you decide on acrylic tubing is the fill port is on the right side of the reservoir and would be difficult to fill with the loop in place. The Evolv has a slide out radiator bracket and if you use soft tubing you can slide the bracket out part way and access the fill port without having to remove any components.


cheers guys i want a custom loop but without all or most of the hassle and the h220 seems the most viable way


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> PPC has it in stock - http://www.performance-pcs.com/pvc-soft-tubing/shopby/brand--primochill/color--uv-blue/tube-size--3-8-x-5-8-10mm-x-16mm/?


Thanks for that! I have it in my cart ready for order along with some UV red anti kink coils. Those I am not purchasing for the anti kink but for the UV red effect. I think that combined with the UV brilliant blue may look pretty cool, if it doesn't I can simply take them out. I can order other colors also though they would not look as good with the other red LEDs coming off the MB and the sound card. I am so tired of seeing red inside a case. It seems that the only real colors internal components come in are red and black. I have heard people complain about to much blue in cases but I really only see that maybe 10% of the time compared to the red.

*I need some more suggestions:* Recently I was talking about air flow and positive pressure in my case. I did notice that I for some reason had my rear fan bowing in and the only exhaust were my two top rad fans. So I changed the orientation of my rear fan, My temps are about 5 degrees cooler with that combined with the cleaning I did with my loop and using the Grizzly kryonaut on my CPU, at least so far. But it feels like I have neutral airflow pressure in my case as there seems to be no air being pushed in or out on the open vents on my case. So right now the only place I have room for fans are in the two open drive bays which consequently is a dead air area. So I was thinking of getting one of those drive bay fan sets but I am not sure which is good to get. *Any recommendations?*

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks for that! I have it in my cart ready for order along with some UV red anti kink coils. Those I am not purchasing for the anti kink but for the UV red effect. I think that combined with the UV brilliant blue may look pretty cool, if it doesn't I can simply take them out. I can order other colors also though they would not look as good with the other red LEDs coming off the MB and the sound card. I am so tired of seeing red inside a case. It seems that the only real colors internal components come in are red and black. I have heard people complain about to much blue in cases but I really only see that maybe 10% of the time compared to the red.
> 
> *I need some more suggestions:* Recently I was talking about air flow and positive pressure in my case. I did notice that I for some reason had my rear fan bowing in and the only exhaust were my two top rad fans. So I changed the orientation of my rear fan, My temps are about 5 degrees cooler with that combined with the cleaning I did with my loop and using the Grizzly kryonaut on my CPU, at least so far. But it feels like I have neutral airflow pressure in my case as there seems to be no air being pushed in or out on the open vents on my case. So right now the only place I have room for fans are in the two open drive bays which consequently is a dead air area. So I was thinking of getting one of those drive bay fan sets but I am not sure which is good to get. *Any recommendations?*
> 
> Thanks in advance!


most of those things come with small fans on them they are more aimed at cooling your hard drives than improving case air flow

and small fans tend to be a bit noisy as they have to do along the lines of 3000rpm+ to have much effect

at least the last time i used one that was the case


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> most of those things come with small fans on them they are more aimed at cooling your hard drives than improving case air flow
> 
> and small fans tend to be a bit noisy as they have to do along the lines of 3000rpm+ to have much effect
> 
> at least the last time i used one that was the case


That's what I figured but was hoping for better. Right now I am not sure what to do to improve airfolw pressure in my case. I could try and block off more of the open ventilation in the case but I am not sure how much that will help at this point.


----------



## flynna3162581

im not sure which way to go in my itx case .... full blown (or try full blown custom cooling or ditch my h100i gtx out for a h220x prestige and buy a gpu block and try go acrylic fittings


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That's what I figured but was hoping for better. Right now I am not sure what to do to improve airfolw pressure in my case. I could try and block off more of the open ventilation in the case but I am not sure how much that will help at this point.


What case, nzxt phanton 820? That case has quite a few mounting positions, including the internal 'pivot' on the drive cage. which mounts are you using in which direction? I'm pretty sure you can get that case setup to flow air decently. I like to setup rads as intake whenever possible since the air outside the case is always cooler than the air inside the case. I'd probably try something like this...

front 200 - intake (can you mount other size fans in this position, I'd rather 2x 140s here).
top - h240 intake (reminder sealed off)
side 200 - exhaust (or maybe empty)
rear 140 - exhaust
pivot 120/140 - setup to channel air from the front intake to the gpu cooler intake area
bottom 2x 120 - sealed off

I'd remove the unused pcie slot covers too so warm air can more easily escape out the back.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> What case, nzxt phanton 820? That case has quite a few mounting positions, including the internal 'pivot' on the drive cage. which mounts are you using in which direction? I'm pretty sure you can get that case setup to flow air decently. I like to setup rads as intake whenever possible since the air outside the case is always cooler than the air inside the case. I'd probably try something like this...
> 
> front 200 - intake (can you mount other size fans in this position, I'd rather 2x 140s here).
> top - h240 intake (reminder sealed off)
> side 200 - exhaust (or maybe empty)
> rear 140 - exhaust
> pivot 120/140 - setup to channel air from the front intake to the gpu cooler intake area
> bottom 2x 120 - sealed off
> 
> I'd remove the unused pcie slot covers too so warm air can more easily escape out the back.


My setup:
Front 200 - intake (no mounting for anything less than 200mm).
Top - h240-X exhaust (reminder not sealed off but have dust filters around there, am thinking of ideas to seal off the area)
Side 200 - intake (blows on the GPU)
Rear 140 - exhaust
Pivot 140 - (angled to channel air from the front intake towards the rear and top)
Bottom 2x 140 - intake

I have it set so all the air flow is towards the top and rear which makes for a more direct airflow.
I also have the rear PCIe covers taped off so no air flows through there, but even with that I still have neutral airflow. I did have the front drive bay ports sealed off but have since opened them up when I tried the Grid+ V2 fan controller(which consequently is apparently going in for an RMA). Sealing off those drive bays may help with more positive airflow but probably not by much.
I have been thinking of ideas to seal off the area around the side door fan. But it may be more simple just to get the full window door for this case and cut out the area for the side fan.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> My setup:
> Front 200 - intake (no mounting for anything less than 200mm).
> Top - h240-X exhaust (reminder not sealed off but have dust filters around there, am thinking of ideas to seal off the area)
> Side 200 - intake (blows on the GPU)
> Rear 140 - exhaust
> Pivot 140 - (angled to channel air from the front intake towards the rear and top)
> Bottom 2x 140 - intake
> 
> I have it set so all the air flow is towards the top and rear which makes for a more direct airflow.
> I also have the rear PCIe covers taped off so no air flows through there, but even with that I still have neutral airflow. I did have the front drive bay ports sealed off but have since opened them up when I tried the Grid+ V2 fan controller(which consequently is apparently going in for an RMA). Sealing off those drive bays may help with more positive airflow but probably not by much.
> I have been thinking of ideas to seal off the area around the side door fan. But it may be more simple just to get the full window door for this case and cut out the area for the side fan.


Please take this as constructive criticism. I think you're blowing warm gpu exhaust up and out thru h240x. You've closed off the pcie slot covers and are pushing towards the gpu from 3 sides (side, bottom, front). The only place for 300W worth of heat to go is up into the intake zone of the h240x. I think the side fans is probably fighting the gpu cooler, it's slowing air flow thru the gpu heat sink by putting air pressure on the sinks exhaust.

I think you could do a lot better. Here's what I had in mind when outlining what fans i'd put where in your case. Consider the top and bottom as two different zones: cpu/mobo on top, gpu on bottom.

For the bottom, what I think you want is predominantly a strong front to back airflow on the lower half of the case. You want that strong airflow to provide good cool air where the gpu cooler picks it up. You don't want gpu heat to rise up into the cpu/mobo zone, you want it to be pushed out back pcie slots or the side.

For the top, provided you're intaking fresh cool air thru the top rad the cpu will get cooled, so it's ok if the air in this area isn't super fresh cool air,, the vrms and memory can get by with less fresh air so long as the air is moving. With the top rad pushing air gently down and the rear drawing it out, that airflow should be sufficient to keep the mobo components happy.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Please take this as constructive criticism. I think you're blowing warm gpu exhaust up and out thru h240x. You've closed off the pcie slot covers and are pushing towards the gpu from 3 sides (side, bottom, front). The only place for 300W worth of heat to go is up into the intake zone of the h240x. I think the side fans is probably fighting the gpu cooler, it's slowing air flow thru the gpu heat sink by putting air pressure on the sinks exhaust.
> 
> I think you could do a lot better. Here's what I had in mind when outlining what fans i'd put where in your case. Consider the top and bottom as two different zones: cpu/mobo on top, gpu on bottom.
> 
> For the bottom, what I think you want is predominantly a strong back to front airflow on the lower half of the case. You want that strong airflow to provide good cool air where the gpu cooler picks it up. You don't want gpu heat to rise up into the cpu/mobo zone, you want it to be pushed out back pcie slots or the side.
> 
> For the top, provided you're intaking fresh cool air thru the top rad the cpu will get cooled, so it's ok if the air in this area isn't super fresh cool air,, the vrms and memory can get by with less fresh air so long as the air is moving. With the top rad pushing air gently down and the rear drawing it out, that airflow should be sufficient to keep the mobo components happy.


That makes sense. The only issue I see is the side fan going against the GPU fans as they push up into the GPU and the side door tries to pull air out.
I have my side fan connected up to one of the optional fan ports on the MB with the associated temp sensor on the GPU, so that fan only goes up with the GPU temp. Though to be honest on that I am not entirely sure where to place the thermal sensor, as of right now I have it sitting in between the two GPU fans in between the heat sink fins.
That side fan blows air both above and below the GPU so it kind of works out for airflow. Since I set the side fan to work with the GPU temps they have not gone above 65 deg even under load. It takes a lot longer to go above that when running the 3DMark benchmarks.

My CPU temps are really good right now with temps staying within 3 degrees of 30 deg C at idle.


----------



## sav4

@ madmaxneo what are your load temps ? have read through this
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/300#post_24987997


----------



## sav4

And this one heaps of good info in there on fan placement .
http://www.overclock.net/t/1394467/ocn-daves-air-cooling-guide/2280#post_24976378


----------



## michael-ocn

I made a window shade for my h240x to keep the light out, so it's nice and algaecidally dark











Those little magnets holding it in place are incredibly powerful!


----------



## t1337dude

So...I don't think the LED's work on my X220 X2 waterblock. I have it plugged into the PWM splitter and have tried swapping it the different available 3-pin slots, but no colors. Anything I might be doing wrong or might this be a common issue?


----------



## flynna3162581

does the h220 fit full size fans as on pictrues it dont show the back ....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flynna3162581*
> 
> does the h220 fit full size fans as on pictrues it dont show the back ....


I'm not sure what you are asking. The H220 fits standard size 120mm fans and comes with two 120 x 25mm fans (which is full size the last time I checked) and the mounting hardware for 25mm thick fans. If you want to go to 38mm thick fans, you will need to get the appropriate screws.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> So...I don't think the LED's work on my X220 X2 waterblock. I have it plugged into the PWM splitter and have tried swapping it the different available 3-pin slots, but no colors. Anything I might be doing wrong or might this be a common issue?


is there a little button on it to cycle through colours?

if so it may have the ability to turn off the leds as well as change colours?


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> is there a little button on it to cycle through colours?
> 
> if so it may have the ability to turn off the leds as well as change colours?


Yea, pressed it, no luck. The other LED's seem to work fine.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Yea, pressed it, no luck. The other LED's seem to work fine.


havent had the chance to get my hands on the new h220-x2 /240-x2

but on my h240-x the cpu block has its own led cable

if i plug that to a pwm header that isnt set above a certain % it wont light up

is the cpu block the same--ie it has a cable coming out of it?


----------



## Balsagna

Got my kit all up and running. As i guessed it, marginal performance gains. The fans at full speed are louder than my other 3 thermaltake fans (by a lot). Running around the safe zone of 1200 to 1000 rpm is close to inaudible.... same as my thermaltake riing fans. Air flow is about same as well. So i dont exactly see the hyoe of thr nb eloop fans.

Its a quality product, the pwm splitter is garbage though. Getting it replaced as the solder on it was faulty and it doesnt work... so i have everything plugged directly to motherboard till thats shipped to me.

Upgrade from a clc? Yes. Noise wise? Not really, temp wise. By about 4 or 5c. For 2x the price and some change. Again, i speak without biasm here for my experience only. I dont talk products up, usually just the opposite to keep reality in check and dont need to justify talking up a product to justify a purchase that works.

I do have better temps, and its better built, but some members make it sound like it was going to be night and day difference, and its not at all. For me anyways


----------



## bluedevil

Has anyone mounted H220 x2 in the roof a CM MasterCase Pro 5? Also a H320 x2 in the front? I have a few ideas.









Edit. Found a roof pic.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> havent had the chance to get my hands on the new h220-x2 /240-x2
> 
> but on my h240-x the cpu block has its own led cable
> 
> if i plug that to a pwm header that isnt set above a certain % it wont light up
> 
> is the cpu block the same--ie it has a cable coming out of it?


It's the same as the H240-X pretty much, except there are designated spots on the splitter now the waterblock's LED to be plugged into. The main difference is that the LED on my H240-X worked, and this doesn't









It's kind of lame. I was really hoping I could get a uniform red glow through-out my case... But I guess it's not worth the dozen hours of headache taking it out, shipping it back, and reinstalling because an LED doesn't work...seems like a lose-lose situation.


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> It's the same as the H240-X pretty much, except there are designated spots on the splitter now the waterblock's LED to be plugged into. The main difference is that the LED on my H240-X worked, and this doesn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's kind of lame. I was really hoping I could get a uniform red glow through-out my case... But I guess it's not worth the dozen hours of headache taking it out, shipping it back, and reinstalling because an LED doesn't work...seems like a lose-lose situation.


i connected the block led to a fan header on my motherboard not the splitter--i made sure the header was set to 100% as at first it wouldnt light up then i realised the header was at 20% in the bios

if you have a spare fan header and the led connectors the same as the h240-x dont see why you cant do the same


----------



## Balsagna

Either these eloops are seated wrong, or theyre just very loud....

1 fan at 1200 rpm is louder than 3 thermaltake riing fans. The sound is annoying, not like a windy pushing a lot of air, but like an obstructed fan.

Running 3 or them at 2000 rpm is hitting over 60db (according to phone app 3ft away), which is louder than dyam 980 ti at full speed.

I wonder if the screws mouted to case from top to the fans is causing vibration and sound. Ideas? Or are they jus this loud.

Under 1000 and i dont hear anything, then again. That was like that for my old clc.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Either these eloops are seated wrong, or theyre just very loud....
> 
> 1 fan at 1200 rpm is louder than 3 thermaltake riing fans. The sound is annoying, not like a windy pushing a lot of air, but like an obstructed fan.
> 
> Running 3 or them at 2000 rpm is hitting over 60db (according to phone app 3ft away), which is louder than dyam 980 ti at full speed.
> 
> I wonder if the screws mouted to case from top to the fans is causing vibration and sound. Ideas? Or are they jus this loud.
> 
> Under 1000 and i dont hear anything, then again. That was like that for my old clc.


I remember something about the eLoops making noise when mounted on a rad in push... or maybe it was pull... i can't remember which orientation? If that's what it is, a small shroud to put some distance between the fan blades and the rad should help.

http://pc.mmgn.com/Forums/PC-Hardware/Fan-Shrouds

edit: pull is the problematic orientation
http://www.overclock.net/t/1449360/nb-eloops-noise-when-in-a-pull-or-push-pull-configuration


----------



## Balsagna

It's just stock mounted on the H320 X2 prestige kit. I'll take this off the case to see what it does. without it not mounted to anything. But I can't even run Prime 95 on the PWM settings without it being louder than anything in my house, including the children lol


----------



## michael-ocn

The linked thread mentioned washers coming with the eloop's accessory kit that could be used to create a small gap too. That was from years ago, maybe they've changed the design to avoid the pull noise problem.

Do you have your fans in push or pull?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Either these eloops are seated wrong, or theyre just very loud....
> 
> 1 fan at 1200 rpm is louder than 3 thermaltake riing fans. The sound is annoying, not like a windy pushing a lot of air, but like an obstructed fan.
> 
> Running 3 or them at 2000 rpm is hitting over 60db (according to phone app 3ft away), which is louder than dyam 980 ti at full speed.
> 
> I wonder if the screws mouted to case from top to the fans is causing vibration and sound. Ideas? Or are they jus this loud.
> 
> Under 1000 and i dont hear anything, then again. That was like that for my old clc.


If it's a high FPI radiator, that kind of noise is normal as the fans are struggling to push air through at the speed of the blades. However if it's a low FPI rad then something else seems wrong.
High FPI radiators generally need low flow, high pressure fans and vice-versa for low FPI.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> If it's a high FPI radiator, that kind of noise is normal as the fans are struggling to push air through at the speed of the blades. However if it's a low FPI rad then something else seems wrong.
> High FPI radiators generally need low flow, high pressure fans and vice-versa for low FPI.


I think fin density is in the low teens, but don't hold me to that.


----------



## Balsagna

Moving it away from the case seems to help quite a bit. It's setup in pull. It's pulling air from outside the case by default and pulling it through the radiator into the case

I have a TT X31 Core case. I'm not a fan of it, but I got it for 50% off... couldn't complain. I just detached it from case just to see if the annoying sound went away, and it did. They're still louder than my TT Riing fans though. I don't see any included washers for the fan, and they also don't come with very good screws to mount them. The screws are a little larger than normal and are basically going to cut through the sides of the mounting areas of the case.

Oh well there. Waiting for Swiftech to supply me with another PWM controller. What I'll probably also do is set the fans to switch around, should help a bit, I'd think. Or as another member stated, use something to create a little distance.


----------



## Ironsmack

If your eLoops are pulling through the rad - that's the reason why they're loud/annoying buzzing sound.

Either flip them over and push through the rad or add a gasket or a fan shroud that is 7mm+ thicker to avoid that buzzing sound due to the fan design.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Moving it away from the case seems to help quite a bit. It's setup in pull. It's pulling air from outside the case by default and pulling it through the radiator into the case


You are confused. You are mixing up intake/exhaust with push/pull. You are currently setup with the fans in push, being used as an intake.

Intake/exhaust should be self-explanatory. Are you using the fans to exhaust air from the case, or intake air from the outside.

Push has the fans mounted so that the exhaust side of the fan is against the radiator, so it is pushing air through the radiator. Pull has the intake side of the fans mounted against the radiator, so it is pulling air through the radiator.


----------



## Balsagna

Setup as intake, sorry i typed from phone and articulated that wrong.


----------



## RnRollie

maybe this will help


----------



## Balsagna

Well its setup in push, so what would be the sound problem then? Or the fix anyways?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Well its setup in push, so what would be the sound problem then? Or the fix anyways?


Just so I am understanding correctly....you question is "why are three 80 CFM 120mm fans loud at full speed when blowing through a radiator?".


----------



## Balsagna

Not understanding correctly.

1 fan alone at HALF speed is still louder than anything in my entire house, for real. I remember something about these Riing fans being trash, but they're pushing as much air at inaudible levels at 1200 RPM, just saying lol.

I need to get a gasket, shroud, flip them or dispose of them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> No. Why why is 1 e-loop fan running at 1200 RPM Louder Than 3 riing fans.
> 
> I can't even run the pwm settings comfortably when benching...


There is obviously something wrong of that is actually the case. I can't find any head-to-head comparisons on those fans (which is pretty much to be expected - like trying to find a head to head comparison of a Honda Accord and a Mercedes S-Class), but the eLoops should be extremely quiet at low speeds. Are you getting mechanical noise, or is it air related? Possibly caused by the top grill on the case?


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is obviously something wrong of that is actually the case. I can't find any head-to-head comparisons on those fans (which is pretty much to be expected - like trying to find a head to head comparison of a Honda Accord and a Mercedes S-Class), but the eLoops should be extremely quiet at low speeds. Are you getting mechanical noise, or is it air related? Possibly caused by the top grill on the case?


Below 800 RPM they are inaudible, but that's moot. I can't realy think of a fan that's audible so low. That said, I think there is an underlying issue, but I'm not sure what it is. It does seem that keeping the fans away from the top of the case does help, but only marginal.

I'm not sure what it is, I'll investigate it more


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think fin density is in the low teens, but don't hold me to that.


anything above 10 could be considered high, but it kinda depends on the particular structure and fin thickness/material.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Moving it away from the case seems to help quite a bit. It's setup in pull. It's pulling air from outside the case by default and pulling it through the radiator into the case
> 
> I have a TT X31 Core case. I'm not a fan of it, but I got it for 50% off... couldn't complain. I just detached it from case just to see if the annoying sound went away, and it did. They're still louder than my TT Riing fans though. I don't see any included washers for the fan, and they also don't come with very good screws to mount them. The screws are a little larger than normal and are basically going to cut through the sides of the mounting areas of the case.
> 
> Oh well there. Waiting for Swiftech to supply me with another PWM controller. What I'll probably also do is set the fans to switch around, should help a bit, I'd think. Or as another member stated, use something to create a little distance.


Oh, if the vents on the case are the cheapo drilled-grid kind then that would definitely add to it, you'll want large spacers or to remove/cut the vents and replace them with actual fan grilles.


----------



## mcnumpty23

the review i saw for that case shows this as the top?

if its that not really surprised theres noise from the fans its not ideal for a rad and fans

or have i got the wrong x31?

http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/mcnumpty23/media/x31_zps3sgl3bzn.png.html


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is obviously something wrong of that is actually the case. I can't find any head-to-head comparisons on those fans (which is pretty much to be expected - like trying to find a head to head comparison of a Honda Accord and a Mercedes S-Class), but the eLoops should be extremely quiet at low speeds. Are you getting mechanical noise, or is it air related? Possibly caused by the top grill on the case?


Ill give you this info tomorrow. Tested those among others. In bed on phone so cba getting up








What i can say is that eloops are almost inaudible up to 1200rpm in a case.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Hi, I'm interested in buying the H320X2, after all the bs I had with the original h220, I'm at first reluctant since I saw all the posts you guys had. I currently have a H220X and its been perfect but it's not as pretty as the H320X2. Sooooooo How is this new cooler holding up over time now ? any big issues leaking in blocks ? or The dyes in the water? I really i wanna set this up with a red dye, but I'm worried about the gunk that can build up. Also is there an issue with Tubings coloring ? I saw some posts with people having dirty looking tubes ? or yellowing .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> Hi, I'm interested in buying the H320X2, after all the bs I had with the original h220, I'm at first reluctant since I saw all the posts you guys had. I currently have a H220X and its been perfect but it's not as pretty as the H320X2. Sooooooo How is this new cooler holding up over time now ? any big issues leaking in blocks ? or The dyes in the water? I really i wanna set this up with a red dye, but I'm worried about the gunk that can build up. Also is there an issue with Tubings coloring ? I saw some posts with people having dirty looking tubes ? or yellowing .


I do not yet own the 320-X2 nor any of the X2 units. I do have a 240-X though. I can tell you this. It seems that if you put any dye in your loop to color the water it will need to be changed and cleaned more often. That is the same for any water loop system regardless of brand. My tubing started to turn green but that was not from the Swiftech parts. I believe it was a combination of older tubing and the Mayhems XT-1 biocide, which comes highly recommended. Last week I did a complete flush and clean of all the parts including a scrub down of the cold plate. I only used straight distilled water in the loop with no biocide whatsoever and now about a week later the loop is still clear and my temps are staying between 28 deg C to 34 deg C at idle. Running the Intel burn test my cores stayed in the low 50's with occasional jumps to the low 60's. One core (Core2) out of 6 never went above 55 deg C. Not sure why but that core has always been a lower temp than all the other cores (I am thinking delidding will make them all uniform). I recently got some PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in Brilliant UV Blue. I also got some bright UV red anti kink coils. I got them for the UV red coil look against the UV blue tubing and not for the anti kink.

As far as issues with leaking and bad or broken parts, I believe they have corrected all the issues they had with the actual manufacturing process. At least I hope so as I am thinking about getting the 320-X2 prestige for my cpu. and using the 240-X to cool the MB. That is if I can figure out a way to mount the unit in the front of my Phantom 820 case. It is good advice to not purchase a new product until at least they make a few corrections or a few months go by without any real repetitive issues. I myself am currently debating on spending the money to get one of the new pascal GPUs nvidia is coming out with in the next couple of months or so. I may not have the funds for it after that...lol...


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I do not yet own the 320-X2 nor any of the X2 units. I do have a 240-X though. I can tell you this. It seems that if you put any dye in your loop to color the water it will need to be changed and cleaned more often. That is the same for any water loop system regardless of brand. My tubing started to turn green but that was not from the Swiftech parts. I believe it was a combination of older tubing and the Mayhems XT-1 biocide, which comes highly recommended. Last week I did a complete flush and clean of all the parts including a scrub down of the cold plate. I only used straight distilled water in the loop with no biocide whatsoever and now about a week later the loop is still clear and my temps are staying between 28 deg C to 34 deg C at idle. Running the Intel burn test my cores stayed in the low 50's with occasional jumps to the low 60's. One core (Core2) out of 6 never went above 55 deg C. Not sure why but that core has always been a lower temp than all the other cores (I am thinking delidding will make them all uniform). I recently got some PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in Brilliant UV Blue. I also got some bright UV red anti kink coils. I got them for the UV red coil look against the UV blue tubing and not for the anti kink.
> 
> As far as issues with leaking and bad or broken parts, I believe they have corrected all the issues they had with the actual manufacturing process. At least I hope so as I am thinking about getting the 320-X2 prestige for my cpu. and using the 240-X to cool the MB. That is if I can figure out a way to mount the unit in the front of my Phantom 820 case. It is good advice to not purchase a new product until at least they make a few corrections or a few months go by without any real repetitive issues. I myself am currently debating on spending the money to get one of the new pascal GPUs nvidia is coming out with in the next couple of months or so. I may not have the funds for it after that...lol...


yeah exactly what I was thinking, Really wanted to get some new pascal gpus but I already invested into 2 980 tis Strixs now

I really don't know how you can drain and fill up an AIO, if you have some tips or videos i would love to see it, I wouldnt mind cleaning the 320x2 every now and then for the sake of red water lol. But i'm probably never going to crack open a block, seems too risky for me


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> yeah exactly what I was thinking, Really wanted to get some new pascal gpus but I already invested into 2 980 tis Strixs now
> 
> I really don't know how you can drain and fill up an AIO, if you have some tips or videos i would love to see it, I wouldnt mind cleaning the 320x2 every now and then for the sake of red water lol. But i'm probably never going to crack open a block, seems too risky for me


That is the benefit of the Swiftech AIO's. They are actually expandable as in just like any other cooling loop that is not an AIO. Swiftech does not use parts you can't take apart. They are essentially easy to disassemble. But if you were going to do that then I would definitely suggest watching plenty of youtube videos and doing plenty of research. But in all honesty I did not find it that hard to do, and I didn't really watch any videos. But that is me. I learn much better by doing myself than watching or reading and I am technically inclined. I could not find any videos just yet but I will look again tomorrow (please remind me). But in the meantime someone else on here may point you in the right direction of good instruction videos.

OTH if you wanted a waterloop that you don't want to have to change or clean that much I would suggest an AIO with solid color tubing as no light can help reduce the growth of algae and what not. But back to the loop you change and adjust, learning how to do that and being able to change things around to your liking is a huge reward in itself.


----------



## pocholo01

Hi everyone,

I need your help on my build. This is my first.

This is the plan



Problem is the fill port is located at the bottom. I can use it as a drain port but i don't think it could drain all the fluid.

How or What can i do to have a fill port on top and have a drain port on the bottom?

My ideas is to put a t block on tube to the cpu close to the pump as a drain port.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I need your help on my build. This is my first.
> 
> This is the plan
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is the fill port is located at the bottom. I can use it as a drain port but i don't think it could drain all the fluid.
> 
> How or What can i do to have a fill port on top and have a drain port on the bottom?
> 
> My ideas is to put a t block on tube to the cpu close to the pump as a drain port.


My best recommendation would be not to put any extra fill or drain ports in because these units are a real pain to drain and fill. In my limited experience you have to twist and turn the unit to get all the coolant out. I would also recommend ensuring the fill port is at the top of your build. Otherwise you would need to turn the whole case over to fill the unit.

I also honestly think it would run better with the pump and reservoir were at the top instead of the bottom, but that is just me.

But if you still plan to go about this in the way you want to I would recommend installing a longer tube with the drain port so it hangs lower than the MB and not directly over any other components.


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> My best recommendation would be not to put any extra fill or drain ports in because these units are a real pain to drain and fill. In my limited experience you have to twist and turn the unit to get all the coolant out. I would also recommend ensuring the fill port is at the top of your build. Otherwise you would need to turn the whole case over to fill the unit.
> 
> I also honestly think it would run better with the pump and reservoir were at the top instead of the bottom, but that is just me.
> 
> But if you still plan to go about this in the way you want to I would recommend installing a longer tube with the drain port so it hangs lower than the MB and not directly over any other components.


After what you said i just realize i could orient it upward.. ill do that. That will fix the fiil port issue.. but how do i drain it in the future?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> After what you said i just realize i could orient it upward.. ill do that. That will fix the fiil port issue.. but how do i drain it in the future?


The best way is to remove the unit and drain it out over a sink or something. That way you can twist and turn the unit so you drain everything.

But it is possible to install a drain port at the lowest point, which would require you installing longer tubing. I do not actually recommend that as removing the unit and draining it that way is safer and you have a better chance of completely draining the unit.


----------



## mcnumpty23

unless you expand it to the gpu i agree you are better just taking the whole thing out if you need to drain it


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> unless you expand it to the gpu i agree you are better just taking the whole thing out if you need to drain it


Yes im adding a gpu block.. any ideas on how to setup a drain?


----------



## mcnumpty23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Yes im adding a gpu block.. any ideas on how to setup a drain?


could add a t-piece at the lowest point with a ball valve on it

so when you need to drain you just attach a piece of tubing with a standard g 1/4 male then open the ball valve

thats what i have done--though my set up is different i take it you have a silverstone case since you are putting it vertically

other than that could put quick disconnects on the tubing so you could isolate and remove parts of the loop to drain them


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcnumpty23*
> 
> could add a t-piece at the lowest point with a ball valve on it
> 
> so when you need to drain you just attach a piece of tubing with a standard g 1/4 male then open the ball valve
> 
> thats what i have done--though my set up is different i take it you have a silverstone case since you are putting it vertically
> 
> other than that could put quick disconnects on the tubing so you could isolate and remove parts of the loop to drain them


Yes im using a rv03.. now the h220x is just in the drive bay.. with no mounts.. just suspended.. i want to move it at the back so that ill have less heat ang less dust in the case.. and add a gpublock.. but im concern about the maintenance thats why i want a fill port and drain port..i possible i like it outside of the case for ease of access.. maybe in the future ill add another radiator at the bottom. Madmaxneo suggested ill orient the fill port on top.. so now i think this all your suggestions? pls refer to the picture


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Yes im using a rv03.. now the h220x is just in the drive bay.. with no mounts.. just suspended.. i want to move it at the back so that ill have less heat ang less dust in the case.. and add a gpublock.. but im concern about the maintenance thats why i want a fill port and drain port..i possible i like it outside of the case for ease of access.. maybe in the future ill add another radiator at the bottom. Madmaxneo suggested ill orient the fill port on top.. so now i think this all your suggestions? pls refer to the picture
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Please note that I have never done this but I asked the same question a while back. It is possible to add a drain port but that would be something you would have to figure out for yourself as every setup is different. I also asked for examples and no one had any to show me. You would have to figure out the best position by trial and error though I think the actual drain port would be best served at the very bottom.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Yes im using a rv03.. now the h220x is just in the drive bay.. with no mounts.. just suspended.. i want to move it at the back so that ill have less heat ang less dust in the case.. and add a gpublock.. but im concern about the maintenance thats why i want a fill port and drain port..i possible i like it outside of the case for ease of access.. maybe in the future ill add another radiator at the bottom. Madmaxneo suggested ill orient the fill port on top.. so now i think this all your suggestions? pls refer to the picture


Would it make sense to put quick disconnects between the gpu block and the h220x?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Would it make sense to put quick disconnects between the gpu block and the h220x?


Yes you could use quick connects it would be much easier to change out or remove the video card when you needed to do that.


----------



## duckyboy

Hi, I just want to post this and whoever can see this and answer this for me based on their experience with the H320X2 Prestige or any X2 lineup if the tubes discolour quickly or turn yellow or green?

I have never flushed an AIO like swiftechs and I don't know where to begin. it seems a lot harder than a customer water cooled built rig. Which I have experience in, reason why I want to move to prebuilt for my main rig is that I am getting lazy flushing builds out and every 3 months and changing tubing every 9 months, plus the concentration mix and dyes gets expensive.

Really want to know if its maintenance free for 3 years that switch advertises it as while using the included dyes.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@duckyboy Sorry I have no experience with those particular units but I will say I believe 3 years is really stretching it for any AIO. I would recommend flushing and cleaning at least once a year for any unit.

*My issue:*
It seems the clear tubing I installed may be the culprit in it turing green. Just over a week ago I installed another set of clear tubing without any XT-1 to see if it was that. I just noticed it last night. I do have some of the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in brilliant UV blue but I am not so sure I would be able to see the tubing turning a different color, just in case it is not the tubing.

*So what do you all think,* should I order a small amount of clear but good tubing just to be safe or should I just go ahead and install the PrimoFlex tubing I have?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @duckyboy Sorry I have no experience with those particular units but I will say I believe 3 years is really stretching it for any AIO. I would recommend flushing and cleaning at least once a year for any unit.
> 
> *My issue:*
> It seems the clear tubing I installed may be the culprit in it turing green. Just over a week ago I installed another set of clear tubing without any XT-1 to see if it was that. I just noticed it last night. I do have some of the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in brilliant UV blue but I am not so sure I would be able to see the tubing turning a different color, just in case it is not the tubing.
> 
> *So what do you all think,* should I order a small amount of clear but good tubing just to be safe or should I just go ahead and install the PrimoFlex tubing I have?


If you were having a fluid issue, you would see it in the res. Use the Primochill.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is obviously something wrong of that is actually the case. I can't find any head-to-head comparisons on those fans (which is pretty much to be expected - like trying to find a head to head comparison of a Honda Accord and a Mercedes S-Class), but the eLoops should be extremely quiet at low speeds. Are you getting mechanical noise, or is it air related? Possibly caused by the top grill on the case?


I kinda forgot to reply to this. The test was conducted on a 240mm custom loop with 15fpi thin rad, D5 pump etc. When the full article is ready with a clip of audio testing ill post everything together








Even the 1500 RPM eloop isnt as loud as Riing fan, and it cools better. I prefer the 1200 RPM versions of eloops tbh, dead silent.





I can fully recommend the prestige version over regular ones due to awesometastic fans.


----------



## bluedevil

Well I just got my H220-X original from ssgtnubb. Thinking I am gonna try and nab another for a cool project I am working for my YT channel.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you were having a fluid issue, you would see it in the res. Use the Primochill.


Yeah but the res has a blue window in it.
I am actually concerned it is the cold plate because when I had scrubbed and scrubbed it I could not get the darkened discoloration completely out.
I know copper turns green for various reasons (oxidation?) and it turns green with plenty of buildup from moisture. So my question is can residue from the copper cause the tubing to turn green?


----------



## prava

How good is the H220 by todays standards? I could get one new for 100€ and, at that price, I think it is a good deal.

Thoughts?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> How good is the H220 by todays standards? I could get one new for 100€ and, at that price, I think it is a good deal.
> 
> Thoughts?


Not too bad a price. How much is an updated version for you though? If its worth the extra would be something to consider.

If you get an h220 make sure to change that shiny black tubing before you fire it up. It's sure to be gummed up with plasticizer by now.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not too bad a price. How much is an updated version for you though? If its worth the extra would be something to consider.
> 
> If you get an h220 make sure to change that shiny black tubing before you fire it up. It's sure to be gummed up with plasticizer by now.


The h220-x costs around 145€... but I just don't like how it looks. Last thing I want is to tear anything apart once I buy it. I'm planning to sell some watercooling components I have simply for peace of mind... and having to dismantle an AIO just as soon as I get it isn't "peace of mind" for me.

BTW, did they ever sold the revision? I read around here that if the tubing is glossy its bad, but if is matte then its neoprene based and thus has no plasticier.

Or is that only for h220-X versions?


----------



## delpy8

guys anyone got a link to a video or images so I can get an understanding of how to fit the swiftech h320 to an amd3 mobo

Thanks


----------



## b4db0y

I have the H220X and there are air bubbles stuck in the reservoir...The problem is the fill port screw got stripped (Seriously this screw is the cheapest thing in the world) and I can't open it to get the air out. Anyone have any advice? Whenever my pump speeds up I get a gargling noise now.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I have the H220X and there are air bubbles stuck in the reservoir...The problem is the fill port screw got stripped (Seriously this screw is the cheapest thing in the world) and I can't open it to get the air out. Anyone have any advice? Whenever my pump speeds up I get a gargling noise now.


Ouch, that's not good, being unable to open/close the fill port is a big problem. Have you looked into getting a new fill port plug? Maybe another idea is to add a 2nd res elsewhere in the loop and fill/drain thru it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I have the H220X and there are air bubbles stuck in the reservoir...The problem is the fill port screw got stripped (Seriously this screw is the cheapest thing in the world) and I can't open it to get the air out. Anyone have any advice? Whenever my pump speeds up I get a gargling noise now.


Are you trying to use the bleed screw as a fill port? The fill port is a G1/4, pretty hard to strip that.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I have the H220X and there are air bubbles stuck in the reservoir...The problem is the fill port screw got stripped (Seriously this screw is the cheapest thing in the world) and I can't open it to get the air out. Anyone have any advice? Whenever my pump speeds up I get a gargling noise now.


I second what @ciarlatano said. It is hard to strip the fill screw. You could use a penny or a dime to unscrew it but I have found it is not needed. I discovered that it is easier to unscrew and tighten by hand. So far no leaks from that area.

Update: I changed out the clear UB blue Danger Dan tubing for the Primo Brilliant UV tubing) and it does look better, though I have yet to install the UV lights. I did notice that the blue window to the reservoir seemed a little cloudy. I will keep an eye on the tubing and what not to see if it starts to get cloudy. If it does I will contact Swiftech support and see what they can do. The primary reason I have changed out the tubing is because the reservoir window got all cloudy and murky looking. I have flushed the system out with distilled water and vinegar, then used a whole gallon of distilled water to rinse it out again. I have also run sysprep in the unit twice now with the second time being over 24hrs. So if my tubing still turns colors and/or becomes cloudy I am thinking this can be a warranty thing.


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you trying to use the bleed screw as a fill port? The fill port is a G1/4, pretty hard to strip that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I second what @ciarlatano said. It is hard to strip the fill screw. You could use a penny or a dime to unscrew it but I have found it is not needed. I discovered that it is easier to unscrew and tighten by hand. So far no leaks from that area.
> 
> Update: I changed out the clear UB blue Danger Dan tubing for the Primo Brilliant UV tubing) and it does look better, though I have yet to install the UV lights. I did notice that the blue window to the reservoir seemed a little cloudy. I will keep an eye on the tubing and what not to see if it starts to get cloudy. If it does I will contact Swiftech support and see what they can do. The primary reason I have changed out the tubing is because the reservoir window got all cloudy and murky looking. I have flushed the system out with distilled water and vinegar, then used a whole gallon of distilled water to rinse it out again. I have also run sysprep in the unit twice now with the second time being over 24hrs. So if my tubing still turns colors and/or becomes cloudy I am thinking this can be a warranty thing.


There is no bleed screw. Just a full port and it is indeed stripped. It's on there way too tight.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> There is no bleed screw. Just a full port and it is indeed stripped. It's on there way too tight.


Take a pair of pliers, grip the edges of the screw, and gently turn the screw counter clockwise


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Take a pair of pliers, grip the edges of the screw, and gently turn the screw counter clockwise


I will try it again tonight but when I tried that last night it would grind the sides of the screw.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I will try it again tonight but when I tried that last night it would grind the sides of the screw.


It sounds like the screw has been over tightened.
How old is the unit and is it still under warranty?
They may cover it through the warranty but probably only if the screw was like that from the factory and you have never removed it.


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It sounds like the screw has been over tightened.
> How old is the unit and is it still under warranty?
> They may cover it through the warranty but probably only if the screw was like that from the factory and you have never removed it.


I opened it 6 months ago because I was having a similar problem with the air bubbles. It's an old unit that's out of warranty I think I will try and open it one more time but if I can't I will pick up a MCP655 with a reservoir on it and add it to my loop and turn the MCP30 off. The gargling essentially makes my computer unusable for gaming because in idle/light work load the pump is slow enough that the bubbles don't move.


----------



## Caos

Hi, I'm wanting to buy the h220x2 prestige, there is a problem with this model or works well as h220x? Thank you


----------



## TheEnergy

Hey guys just ordered the H320 x2 prestige:
http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab1

Can anyone tell me once you put in the dye, can you *change the dyes later on* with the swiftech?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I have the H220X and there are air bubbles stuck in the reservoir...The problem is the fill port screw got stripped (Seriously this screw is the cheapest thing in the world) and I can't open it to get the air out. Anyone have any advice? Whenever my pump speeds up I get a gargling noise now.


You could try a bit like this with a spanner
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2915-Impact-Screwdriver-8-Piece/dp/B000NQ4OX0
Or multi or vice grips if it's to far gone just have a backup plug to go in .


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Hey guys just ordered the H320 x2 prestige:
> http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab1
> 
> Can anyone tell me once you put in the dye, can you *change the dyes later on* with the swiftech?


You'd have to drain it completely, flush it, and add in new coolant.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all, I am looking to purchase a large amount of thermal grease. I was going to go with the Grizzly Kyronaut but the lowest cost I can find is $30 for the 11.1 grams on Amazon. So I did some research and found this Gelid GC extreme on performancePCS.com. Is that the right Gelid to get or is this GC2 extreme better? Others on here highly recommend the Gelid and was wondering which one is better.

Also does anyone know where I can get the Blue replacement window for the H240-X without paying more in shipping than the cost of the window? I need to replace this window before the crack I created starts to leak.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey all, I am looking to purchase a large amount of thermal grease. I was going to go with the Grizzly Kyronaut but the lowest cost I can find is $30 for the 11.1 grams on Amazon. So I did some research and found this Gelid GC extreme on performancePCS.com. Is that the right Gelid to get or is this GC2 extreme better? Others on here highly recommend the Gelid and was wondering which one is better.
> 
> Also does anyone know where I can get the Blue replacement window for the H240-X without paying more in shipping than the cost of the window? I need to replace this window before the crack I created starts to leak.


The reviews I have read the GC extreme has slightly better temps. It is what I am using and I am very happy with it.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> You'd have to drain it completely, flush it, and add in new coolant.


Is that difficult at all or does it require any special tools?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Is that difficult at all or does it require any special tools?


It's not really that hard to do but can be a little overwhelming the first time you do it. You only need a small phillips or (crosstip) screw driver (the right size helps) and maybe a dime for the fill port. Other than that knowing your way around the innards of your PC is a must.


----------



## JAM3S121

Really like the new x2 models but those led's on the radiators are atrociously What a shame


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Really like the new x2 models but those led's on the radiators are atrociously What a shame


so don't plug them in?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> I opened it 6 months ago because I was having a similar problem with the air bubbles. It's an old unit that's out of warranty I think I will try and open it one more time but if I can't I will pick up a MCP655 with a reservoir on it and add it to my loop and turn the MCP30 off. The gargling essentially makes my computer unusable for gaming because in idle/light work load the pump is slow enough that the bubbles don't move.


Oh, so it's not stripped, its just over tightened? Vice grips FTW!


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Really like the new x2 models but those led's on the radiators are atrociously What a shame


whats wrong with the LEDs?


----------



## Mega Man

He does not like them


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Really like the new x2 models but those led's on the radiators are atrociously What a shame


Those LEDs are one of the reasons I like the prestige models.


----------



## JAM3S121

I havent seen a good picture or video of them yet after some research it wouldn't look bad if the leds actually had a full/diffused look. I know you can turn them off but there then looks like something is missing with that big strip not lighting up.

Anyone have good pictures of what the leds look like powered up on the radiator?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I havent seen a good picture or video of them yet after some research it wouldn't look bad if the leds actually had a full/diffused look. I know you can turn them off but there then looks like something is missing with that big strip not lighting up.
> 
> Anyone have good pictures of what the leds look like powered up on the radiator?






 is a youtube video showing the entire new line with the LEDs lit up. IMHO the blue looks the best...


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is a youtube video showing the entire new line with the LEDs lit up. IMHO the blue looks the best...


Dat SKF CPU block...


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> You could try a bit like this with a spanner
> http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2915-Impact-Screwdriver-8-Piece/dp/B000NQ4OX0
> Or multi or vice grips if it's to far gone just have a backup plug to go in .


use epoxy, stick something to it and use it as leverage..


----------



## Scrimstar

Is there a TIM better than the TIM Mate 2? I heard Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal was supposed to be the best? I have a $15 budget for thermal paste


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Is there a TIM better than the TIM Mate 2? I heard Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal was supposed to be the best? I have a $15 budget for thermal paste


GC-Extreme is a better paste, i just reseated my gpu cooler and cpu block with it, a few degrees better. The now gpu tops out at 67/68 where before it would be pressing into the 70s. On the cpu, i decided i had enough new thermal headroom to increase the multiplier from 4.4 to 4.5. Temps at 4.5 with gelid are comparable with what they were at 4.4 with tim-mate.

It is stickier stuff than tim-mate, i haven't had to clean the gc-extreme off yet, i expect tim-mate is easier for that.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Is there a TIM better than the TIM Mate 2? I heard Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal was supposed to be the best? I have a $15 budget for thermal paste


Thermal Grizzly(varients) is relatively new and supposedly really good. It's just a bit pricey


----------



## ciarlatano

TIM Mate 2 is pretty lousy paste. Gelid GC Extreme, Noctua NT-H1, Arctic MX-4 are all excellent at a reasonable cost.


----------



## Scrimstar

the default stuff that comes with it is the TIM Mate 2 right

I am probably gonna get the Gelid GC Extreme 3.5g or Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut Kryonaut 1g, maybe mx4


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> the default stuff that comes with it is the TIM Mate 2 right
> 
> I am probably gonna get the Gelid GC Extreme 3.5g or Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut Kryonaut 1g, maybe mx4


Yes. Any of those should be an upgrade.

I've read that grizzly kryonaut yields the best results but can be very difficult to apply. Getting the screws started with the swiftech mounting system can tricky which can affect the TIM application. TIM-mate is really easy to apply and I think MX4 is super easy too. I'm happy the GC Extreme in terms of thermal performance and ease of application. I give it a warm water bath (put the tube in a ziploc bag) and it goes on easy enough using the 'rice grain' kind of technique. If you believe all the on reviews, gc-extreme outperforms mx4 by a smidge.


----------



## Cavanta

Hi guys!

Just finished my project with the h240x
I really like it but i is a real pain in the ass if you want to drain and flush the whole system...
I delidded my 4770k a while ago and that time i used MX4 on the block and the cpu die.
In the beginning it worked perfectly but after about 4 months the load temps went trough the roof(85 degrees+ benching on stock)
I saw some topics of the MX4 degrading or someting over time, any of you have experience with this?
This time im using the GC extreme and it cools a little bit better then the MX4 when i applied it.
I am now on 4.2 at 1.182 on the Vcore and it is staying below the 70 degrees on Prime95.
Sorry for the potato photo... My S7 arrives in about 2 weeks from now!









http://s157.photobucket.com/user/to...9-412c-b5be-fed9c2e86afe_zpstftvkvju.jpg.html

Did any of you changed the tubing to hard acryllic on the h2--x?
And after a year or so my stock fans from swiftech already are dying...
But still, i am loving the H240X every day!
Nice forum here guys! If you have recommendations or questions i am glad to answer them!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavanta*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Just finished my project with the h240x
> I really like it but i is a real pain in the ass if you want to drain and flush the whole system...
> I delidded my 4770k a while ago and that time i used MX4 on the block and the cpu die.
> In the beginning it worked perfectly but after about 4 months the load temps went trough the roof(85 degrees+ benching on stock)
> I saw some topics of the MX4 degrading or someting over time, any of you have experience with this?
> This time im using the GC extreme and it cools a little bit better then the MX4 when i applied it.
> I am now on 4.2 at 1.182 on the Vcore and it is staying below the 70 degrees on Prime95.
> Sorry for the potato photo... My S7 arrives in about 2 weeks from now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s157.photobucket.com/user/to...9-412c-b5be-fed9c2e86afe_zpstftvkvju.jpg.html
> 
> Did any of you changed the tubing to hard acryllic on the h2--x?
> And after a year or so my stock fans from swiftech already are dying...
> But still, i am loving the H240X every day!
> Nice forum here guys! If you have recommendations or questions i am glad to answer them!


the only time I've seen mx4 not perform is if it's overheated like crazy over long period of time unless you got an old tube....contact @Dango/swiftech they will get you sorted


----------



## Cavanta

The MX4 was not overheated like crazy, and when i applied it for the first time the tube was brand new.
It worked fine for the first few months but after that the load temps went up like crazy. at that time i was only playing some BF4 a couple times a week.
I got the adapter for the pump outlet imported from swiftech, works excelent but almost impossible to get it on with normal tools.
They recommend bending a small screw driver...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavanta*
> 
> The MX4 was not overheated like crazy, and when i applied it for the first time the tube was brand new.
> It worked fine for the first few months but after that the load temps went up like crazy. at that time i was only playing some BF4 a couple times a week.
> I got the adapter for the pump outlet imported from swiftech, works excelent but almost impossible to get it on with normal tools.
> They recommend bending a small screw driver...


When installing that adapter I highly recommend taking the pump off the radiator. It is so much easier and you do not have to try and bend the screw driver, or even attempt to


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> When installing that adapter I highly recommend taking the pump off the radiator. It is so much easier and you do not have to try and bend the screw driver, or even attempt to


Yeah I totally agree, that is how I did it and it is so much easier. Just watch for the O ring that is at the end of the pump.


----------



## Caos

hello, a year ago I changed my h220x liquid, it is necessary to change it? thanks

This liquid serves me?

http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-LIQ-702BU-B-LIQ-702-Coolant-High-Performance/dp/B004WSBQTU/ref=pd_cp_147_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=19RC2A6R18XW0VKB5FJ5

or

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Computer-Cooling-Coolant-CL-W114-OS00BU-/dp/B01AZC354A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460937489&sr=8-1&keywords=liquid+coolant


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, a year ago I changed my h220x liquid, it is necessary to change it? thanks
> 
> This liquid serves me?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-LIQ-702BU-B-LIQ-702-Coolant-High-Performance/dp/B004WSBQTU/ref=pd_cp_147_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=19RC2A6R18XW0VKB5FJ5
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Computer-Cooling-Coolant-CL-W114-OS00BU-/dp/B01AZC354A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460937489&sr=8-1&keywords=liquid+coolant


I honestly recommend using straight distilled water and then maybe adding in some good premix concentrate, I only use distilled and the XT-1.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I honestly recommend using straight distilled water and then maybe adding in some good premix concentrate, I only use distilled and the XT-1.


I am getting ready to do a new Skylake build with a custom loop and was going to get some of the XT-1, how do you like it? Any problems with clogging?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I honestly recommend using straight distilled water and then maybe adding in some good premix concentrate, I only use distilled and the XT-1.


thanks for the reply .. would this product?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-uv-blue.html#Features

or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-clear-coolant-concentrate-150ml.html

thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Coolant is a personal choice, some like it, others don't, I can tell you from my experience I use either pt nuke or iandh deadwater (you will most likely only need 1 or 2 DROPS )and distilled. It works great and I only change it every 1-3 years


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Coolant is a personal choice, some like it, others don't, I can tell you from my experience I use either pt nuke or iandh deadwater (you will most likely only need 1 or 2 DROPS )and distilled. It works great and I only change it every 1-3 years


apology, but it refers to the XT1? I do not know much of refrigerants.


----------



## Mega Man

I don't know anything about it, but I can tell you pick up the one you like. It is your rig and not ours, coolant is highly subjective on what is good or not. If you like it and it gives you the color you want, then enjoy it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know anything about it, but I can tell you pick up the one you like. It is your rig and not ours, coolant is highly subjective on what is good or not. If you like it and it gives you the color you want, then enjoy it


I agree. I only just started using the XT-1 but everything I read on it makes it be the one I want to use.
I do not recommend using anything with a dye in it. From what I have read even the best dyes have a tendency to clog your loop over time which means you would have to clean it out more often.

FYI, I have also been using this Primochill sysprep to clean out my loop. But that is also a preference. That one little bottle will make a full gallon which you can store for years. I have that gallon jug sitting in the closet just waiting for the next time I need to use it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

What do you all think about using a H120-X with the Kraken G10 shroud to cool my gpu? I would probably put the H120-X as the back fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What do you all think about using a H120-X with the Kraken G10 shroud to cool my gpu? I would probably put the H120-X as the back fan.


First, that it's not a very sensible idea....

Second, when did they announce an H120-X?

Adding a radiator and GPU block to your existing would be a far cleaner way to go about it, and would offer better performance especially for the VRM and VRAM.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> First, that it's not a very sensible idea....
> 
> Second, when did they announce an H120-X?
> 
> Adding a radiator and GPU block to your existing would be a far cleaner way to go about it, and would offer better performance especially for the VRM and VRAM.


Ha typo, the H140-X.

From what I have seen the GPU block is not needed. The SC ACX 2.0 has a great midplate for working with the Kraken G10.
I also am trying to wait for the 1080's coming out soon. So I do not want to waste the money on a GPU block. If I happen to get a 1080 hybrid with a water block already on it then I am only out $30 for the G10.\

EDIT: I am also trying to keep all my components separate for easier maintenance. I do not want to put the GPU in with the CPU loop, and may even have a separate loop for the MB if I ever get around to planning that.


----------



## seblura

Can someone confirm og decline that swiftech h220 CPU block fits on ASUS vil imapct? Ive seen a buildlog where it didnt and i saw a pic om Google where it did :S
Cause im in a dilemma of buying one for my compact itx build...

Cheers


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seblura*
> 
> Can someone confirm og decline that swiftech h220 CPU block fits on ASUS vil imapct? Ive seen a buildlog where it didnt and i saw a pic om Google where it did :S
> Cause im in a dilemma of buying one for my compact itx build...
> 
> Cheers


It is possible that anyone on here has not had or know of anyone with a build with that MB and AIO.
It is probably doable but not without a mod of some sort. My recommendation is to try and locate the forum that pic on google was attached to and see what they did to get it to fit.
Good luck though!


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seblura*
> 
> Can someone confirm og decline that swiftech h220 CPU block fits on ASUS vil imapct? Ive seen a buildlog where it didnt and i saw a pic om Google where it did :S
> Cause im in a dilemma of buying one for my compact itx build...
> 
> Cheers


I had the maximus VI impact and it fits, don't think they changed the layout of the VII impact so it should be fine.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Is there a TIM better than the TIM Mate 2? I heard Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal was supposed to be the best? I have a $15 budget for thermal paste


http://www.overclock.net/t/1536929/stock-thermal-paste-vs-gelid-extreme-on-a-h240x#post_24018503


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What do you all think about using a H120-X with the Kraken G10 shroud to cool my gpu? I would probably put the H120-X as the back fan.






 i think this one is better


----------



## seblura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It is possible that anyone on here has not had or know of anyone with a build with that MB and AIO.
> It is probably doable but not without a mod of some sort. My recommendation is to try and locate the forum that pic on google was attached to and see what they did to get it to fit.
> Good luck though!


I've asked the forum, tho its years ago...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> I had the maximus VI impact and it fits, don't think they changed the layout of the VII impact so it should be fine.


Ye i thought so too, it dosent seems like its been changed...

Here are those pic i told about:



Here it dont fit, it hit the daughterboard...



here it sees that the guy removed the daughterboard for it too fit :S


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seblura*
> 
> I've asked the forum, tho its years ago...
> Ye i thought so too, it dosent seems like its been changed...
> 
> Here are those pic i told about:
> 
> 
> 
> Here it dont fit, it hit the daughterboard...
> 
> 
> 
> here it sees that the guy removed the daughterboard for it too fit :S


Sorry , I was thinking about the h220X, from your picture it looks like it will not fit. Looks like he remove the heatsink from the the Vrm daughter board as well, it runs hot so I don't think removing the heatsink is recommended.


----------



## seblura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> Sorry , I was thinking about the h220X, from your picture it looks like it will not fit. Looks like he remove the heatsink from the the Vrm daughter board as well, it runs hot so I don't think removing the heatsink is recommended.


Ye exactly that was my thoughts aswell, i dont feel comfortable removing the heatsink tho...
Damn it


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think this one is better


To big, it will not fit in the back of the caae. Besides you can't change the tubing without voiding the warranty on the corsair.
Swiftech is much better than those anyway.....


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have decided against the H140-X because I now think it would better fit at the bottom. I am thinking the back is better reserved for cooling the MB which may end up being the H140-X then.

Either way I am thinking I would need a good set up for GPU cooling and since it is at the bottom of the case I would not be able to use any of the AIOs. After looking through the Swiftech site I realized I need some help with this.

If there is a set that has all I need minus the tubing and fittings then I would be good to go. But as of yet I have not been able to find anything like that. I have room at the bottom for a dual 120mm rad setup in a pull configuration.
One thing My limit is about $100. To much higher and it is cutting into my budget on saving up for the next gen cards.

FYI I would use this with the Kraken G10.


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Hi everyone. I just installed my H320 X2 Prestige on my i7-4790k stock.

I'm running 32C on idle and 40-42C when playing League of Legends. Are they good numbers? Also, can someone teach me how to apply the coolant? I don't want to open the thing in the side and then water will just come out.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Hi everyone. I just installed my H320 X2 Prestige on my i7-4790k stock.
> 
> I'm running 32C on idle and 40-42C when playing League of Legends. Are they good numbers? Also, can someone teach me how to apply the coolant? I don't want to open the thing in the side and then water will just come out.


It really is not that hard but you have to actually remove the loop from your system and then drain it over a sink or something of the like. Once you have the system out and over a sink all you need to do is unscrew the fill port screw and hold it pointing down towards the sink. You will have to twist and turn the block and the rad around to get all the coolant out of the system. Refilling it is a little more difficult but my only experience is with the H240-x and I do not know how the fill port is associated with the rest of the unit. On the H240-x you had to patient because the fill port and the port to the radiator are not lined up so it made filling it a slower process.
What I can do is recommend getting a threaded funnel that will fit in the fill port. You can look on performancepcs.com for such a thing.


----------



## Mega Man

drain valve !

also i have said funnel and i prefer this ( just offering you guys more options )

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/reservoir-accessories/fillport/7678/aquacomputer-fillport-mit-entlueftungsleitung-und-befuellflasche

i am sure you can find the bottle separate, but i d k where i love them so much i have 2


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasongenovaxx*
> 
> Hi everyone. I just installed my H320 X2 Prestige on my i7-4790k stock.
> 
> I'm running 32C on idle and 40-42C when playing League of Legends. Are they good numbers? Also, can someone teach me how to apply the coolant? I don't want to open the thing in the side and then water will just come out.


Since there isn't a separate res to make filling the loop easier, it's best to put the cooler out of the case to drain and refill it. Realistically, i think that's the only option. It takes quite a lot of fiddling to get it filled.

Oh, but maybe you don't want to drain and fill, you just want to put some dye in, is that right? Depending on how accessible the fillport is within your case, you might be able to do that without removing, but... if it were me... i'd remove the unit from the case to add the color. Do you have to drain the fluid, mix it with the colorm and then refill with the colored water or can you just suck a little water out, pour some color in, and let it mix while it runs.

You do need a way to power the pump when you're refilling. Do you have an old atx power supply to use for that?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Since there isn't a separate res to make filling the loop easier, it's best to put the cooler out of the case to drain and refill it. Realistically, i think that's the only option. It takes quite a lot of fiddling to get it filled.
> 
> Oh, but maybe you don't want to drain and fill, you just want to put some dye in, is that right? Depending on how accessible the fillport is within your case, you might be able to do that without removing, but... if it were me... i'd remove the unit from the case to add the color. Do you have to drain the fluid, mix it with the colorm and then refill with the colored water or can you just suck a little water out, pour some color in, and let it mix while it runs.
> 
> You do need a way to power the pump when you're refilling. Do you have an old atx power supply to use for that?


No real need to fill it using another PSU. I just connect it to the one in my case. I of course unplug the PSU from the MB and use the testing/shorting plug that came with my PSU. If he does not have a test plug then he can short it out using the paper clip method (instructions are on youtube). I have it sitting on the outside my case with the fillport pointing towards the ceiling. I then fill it till it is full and cycle it on and off each time it gets full. It only needs to be on for a second and as soon as you cycle it off bubbles come up out of the unit. It is real easy. I think I have it down now where I can do it from taking it out, drain and fill, to reinstalling it all in about 40 mins or so.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

After a couple of months now, has anyone seen noticeable color change in the fluid when using the dyes? or if performance has dropped from and gunk or build up in the new X2 line ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Does Swiftech have a pump that comes with a reservoir? I am not looking at one of the AIOs as it needs to be a custom loop. This loop will go at the bottom of my case for cooling the GPU and the AIOs can't be bottom mounted.

If not Swiftech does anyone else produce a pump/reservoir combo unit for custom loops?


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does Swiftech have a pump that comes with a reservoir? I am not looking at one of the AIOs as it needs to be a custom loop. This loop will go at the bottom of my case for cooling the GPU and the AIOs can't be bottom mounted.
> 
> If not Swiftech does anyone else produce a pump/reservoir combo unit for custom loops?


EKWB makes some really nice pump/res combos and it makes things a lot easier, or you could try XSPC, but I'm not familiar with them...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Does Swiftech have a pump that comes with a reservoir? I am not looking at one of the AIOs as it needs to be a custom loop. This loop will go at the bottom of my case for cooling the GPU and the AIOs can't be bottom mounted.
> 
> If not Swiftech does anyone else produce a pump/reservoir combo unit for custom loops?


The MCP50X has an easy to assemble matching res. The XSPC Ion would also be worth a look.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The MCP50X has an easy to assemble matching res. The XSPC Ion would also be worth a look.


I have been looking at the MCPX50 and the dual bay reservoir that you can get together. I have combined those with the 140mm rad and a 140mm helix fan. Though I am not sure the helix fan will provide the best performance. The cost is almost $200 which just about twice the limit I self imposed. I wish there were less expensive alternatives.

It would be real awesome if either the MCR140-X Drive or one of the 220/240 AIOs could be placed at the bottom of the case, that would make things so much more simple.

The XSPC Ion pump/res combo is a pretty good idea but how good is that pump?

EDIT: I just discovered the MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series have the option to include a reservoir. That is a step in the right direction but they are currently out of stock, figures....lol.


----------



## jasongenovaxx

Hey guys. How can I reduce the noise from my H320 X2?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have been looking at the MCPX50 and the dual bay reservoir that you can get together. I have combined those with the 140mm rad and a 140mm helix fan. Though I am not sure the helix fan will provide the best performance. The cost is almost $200 which just about twice the limit I self imposed. I wish there were less expensive alternatives.
> 
> It would be real awesome if either the MCR140-X Drive or one of the 220/240 AIOs could be placed at the bottom of the case, that would make things so much more simple.
> 
> The XSPC Ion pump/res combo is a pretty good idea but how good is that pump?
> 
> EDIT: I just discovered the MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series have the option to include a reservoir. That is a step in the right direction but they are currently out of stock, figures....lol.


I was actually referring to the cylinder reservoir from Swiftech.

The Ion will work very well for a 1 or 2 block loop.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

I know everyone here told me to just drain and fill , but what if tubing gets discoloured and I need to change that. Would that not void the warranty ? or is Swiftech allowing us to fill, drain, and replace tubing while keeping warranty?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was actually referring to the cylinder reservoir from Swiftech.
> 
> The Ion will work very well for a 1 or 2 block loop.


I didn't see a cylinder reservoir, I will look again.
Is the performance on the ION good? I may get that as it is a much cheaper alternative. I can get a swiftech rad for about $40, all I will need then is the gpu block, the Kraken G10, and a good fan. I might also have to get a pwm splitter.

Where can one get one of those new noise blocker fans that are so awesome?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> I know everyone here told me to just drain and fill , but what if tubing gets discoloured and I need to change that. Would that not void the warranty ? or is Swiftech allowing us to fill, drain, and replace tubing while keeping warranty?


That's the benefit of getting a Swiftech AIO, it can be drained and filled, and the tubing changed out all without voiding the warranty.
Essentially the Swiftech AIOs are prebuilt custom loops.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I didn't see a cylinder reservoir, I will look again.
> Is the performance on the ION good? I may get that as it is a much cheaper alternative. I can get a swiftech rad for about $40, all I will need then is the gpu block, the Kraken G10, and a good fan. I might also have to get a pwm splitter.


I was referring to this one, which also works directly with the MCP50X - http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx

The Ion is a good little pump/res combo, and is much more suited to what you are doing. The MCP50X is way overkill for a single block, or even two. The Ion flows 420 lph and has head pressure of 2M, so roughly the equivalent of the pump in your H220-X and more than enough for what you are doing.

I still have no clue what the G10 is for in this.....


----------



## Mega Man

You can put the 140x in the bottom of your case. You may have to get creative with the mounting is all


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can put the 140x in the bottom of your case. You may have to get creative with the mounting is all


Swiftech strongly advises against mounting it pump side up. I would think if you used an additional res located higher it may be ok, provided you bleed it prior to mounting it.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I didn't see a cylinder reservoir, I will look again.
> Is the performance on the ION good? I may get that as it is a much cheaper alternative. I can get a swiftech rad for about $40, all I will need then is the gpu block, the Kraken G10, and a good fan. I might also have to get a pwm splitter.


I am curious about the Kraken also, if you are getting a gpu block you don't need the Kraken. If you get the Kraken you should use one of the CLC on their compatible list.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea..or get creative modding it...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am curious about the Kraken also, if you are getting a gpu block you don't need the Kraken. If you get the Kraken you should use one of the CLC on their compatible list.


Or, you should simply get a GPU block and try to block CLCs on GPUs and the existence of the Kraken G10 from your memory.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or, you should simply get a GPU block and try to block CLCs on GPUs and the existence of the Kraken G10 from your memory.


rofl







Yeah I tried the Kraken with a CLC and switched to a full loop and gpu block. Full loop works much better.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can put the 140x in the bottom of your case. You may have to get creative with the mounting is all


Are you talking about putting another res higher like @ciarlatano mentioned or something else? Could you please elaborate a little more?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am curious about the Kraken also, if you are getting a gpu block you don't need the Kraken. If you get the Kraken you should use one of the CLC on their compatible list.


I will have to look at their compatible list. I am starting to think a single gpu block would be about the same price.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are you talking about putting another res higher like @ciarlatano mentioned or something else? Could you please elaborate a little more?
> I will have to look at their compatible list. I am starting to think a single gpu block would be about the same price.


The Kraken G10 is made specifically to mount an Asetek CLC to a GPU. That is why we are all curious as to what possible plan you have for it. It won't work with a full cover or universal block.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or, you should simply get a GPU block and try to block CLCs on GPUs and the existence of the Kraken G10 from your memory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rofl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I tried the Kraken with a CLC and switched to a full loop and gpu block. Full loop works much better.
Click to expand...

fixed it for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can put the 140x in the bottom of your case. You may have to get creative with the mounting is all
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about putting another res higher like @ciarlatano mentioned or something else? Could you please elaborate a little more?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am curious about the Kraken also, if you are getting a gpu block you don't need the Kraken. If you get the Kraken you should use one of the CLC on their compatible list.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I will have to look at their compatible list. I am starting to think a single gpu block would be about the same price.
Click to expand...

mod it.

make it work, either via stacking shrouds, all thread , making a bracket w.e. works


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Kraken G10 is made specifically to mount an Asetek CLC to a GPU. That is why we are all curious as to what possible plan you have for it. It won't work with a full cover or universal block.


But other coolers will work. The H105 will work (Mr Dark has two on his) and I have been told just about any other generic block will work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed it for you
> mod it.
> 
> make it work, either via stacking shrouds, all thread , making a bracket w.e. works


I am starting to see a ******* build....lol....So basically you think I should still keep it at the bottom but mount it in the normal orientation with finding a way to have it raised up so it will work.....hmmmmm


----------



## Mega Man

******* never..... overclock it

i have seen plenty of great mods that LOOK professional but if i told them all what to do.... not so much


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But other coolers will work. The H105 will work (Mr Dark has two on his) and I have been told just about any other generic block will work.
> 
> I am starting to see a ******* build....lol....So basically you think I should still keep it at the bottom but mount it in the normal orientation with finding a way to have it raised up so it will work.....hmmmmm


Ummmm....the H105 is an Asetek CLC. I would wager that these other "generic blocks" you mention are also Asetek CLCs, and not blocks in the first place.

If you are buying a block for your GPU, it will not need (or fit correctly with) the Kraken G10. If you are planning on buying a CLC....then you can't use the pump, block, res and rad you are looking at (and, of course, don't value your VRM, hearing or the look of your build).

Perhaps you should lay out _all_ of the parts you are planning on buying here. Something is obviously not right with your plan.


----------



## Caos

hello, on Tuesday I get the prestige h220x2, before installing any advice? Thank you


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ummmm....the H105 is an Asetek CLC. I would wager that these other "generic blocks" you mention are also Asetek CLCs, and not blocks in the first place.
> 
> If you are buying a block for your GPU, it will not need (or fit correctly with) the Kraken G10. If you are planning on buying a CLC....then you can't use the pump, block, res and rad you are looking at (and, of course, don't value your VRM, hearing or the look of your build).
> 
> Perhaps you should lay out _all_ of the parts you are planning on buying here. Something is obviously not right with your plan.


Well that is the thing, I do not have all the parts I need. Right now I see that it will cost me about $100 total for the block that is going on the GPU and the Kraken G10. For that amount I can get a full waterblock for my GPU. The only thing I have set in place right now are the XPSC Ion reservoir/pump combo and the rad from Swiftech. Other than that I am thinking of getting an actual GPU block for the GPU off ebay.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well that is the thing, I do not have all the parts I need. Right now I see that it will cost me about $100 total for the block that is going on the GPU and the Kraken G10. For that amount I can get a full waterblock for my GPU. The only thing I have set in place right now are the XPSC Ion reservoir/pump combo and the rad from Swiftech. Other than that I am thinking of getting an actual GPU block for the GPU off ebay.


It seems you are having a lot of confusion regarding GPU blocks as a whole, and the existence of the Kraken G10 is further convoluting it.

You are saying that it would cost you ~$100 for the block and the G10. However.....there are no blocks made to work with the G10. There are a bunch of universal GPU only (not full cover) blocks on the market, but none of them will fit with the G10 without some mod work - and even then most, if not all, of them wouldn't work.

But....you also referred to the H105 as a "GPU block" at one point.....and it isn't. It is a CLC made for a CPU that the Kraken G10 can ghetto rig onto a graphics card. Shiny paint or not, the G10 is still nothing more than a ghetto rig, and one that leaves the VRM screaming for mercy at that. This type of setup can't be used with an additional or different pump, rad, res, etc. It is nothing more than a CLC (*closed* loop cooler).

And, yes, you can pick up a full cover block from a name brand (EK, Swiftech, HeatKiller, XSPC) for only a few dollars more and have proper cooling.

There is no place for the Kraken G10 in a loop with an external pump, reservoir and radiator. There is no place for a Kraken G10 to be used with a GPU block, period. Hence everyone's curiosity on what you possible had planned for the G10.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It seems you are having a lot of confusion regarding GPU blocks as a whole, and the existence of the Kraken G10 is further convoluting it.
> 
> You are saying that it would cost you ~$100 for the block and the G10. However.....there are no blocks made to work with the G10. There are a bunch of universal GPU only (not full cover) blocks on the market, but none of them will fit with the G10 without some mod work - and even then most, if not all, of them wouldn't work.
> 
> But....you also referred to the H105 as a "GPU block" at one point.....and it isn't. It is a CLC made for a CPU that the Kraken G10 can ghetto rig onto a graphics card. Shiny paint or not, the G10 is still nothing more than a ghetto rig, and one that leaves the VRM screaming for mercy at that. This type of setup can't be used with an additional or different pump, rad, res, etc. It is nothing more than a CLC (*closed* loop cooler).
> 
> And, yes, you can pick up a full cover block from a name brand (EK, Swiftech, HeatKiller, XSPC) for only a few dollars more and have proper cooling.
> 
> There is no place for the Kraken G10 in a loop with an external pump, reservoir and radiator. There is no place for a Kraken G10 to be used with a GPU block, period. Hence everyone's curiosity on what you possible had planned for the G10.


Thanks for writing that, I totally agree and was getting confused at exactly what Madmaxneo was trying to get at.

Thing I really don't understand is Madmaxneo has a H240-X, just add a reservoir and gpu block to your existing system. That would be more cost effective and better performing. That is what I did to my H220-X and it works great.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It seems you are having a lot of confusion regarding GPU blocks as a whole, and the existence of the Kraken G10 is further convoluting it.
> 
> You are saying that it would cost you ~$100 for the block and the G10. However.....there are no blocks made to work with the G10. There are a bunch of universal GPU only (not full cover) blocks on the market, but none of them will fit with the G10 without some mod work - and even then most, if not all, of them wouldn't work.
> 
> But....you also referred to the H105 as a "GPU block" at one point.....and it isn't. It is a CLC made for a CPU that the Kraken G10 can ghetto rig onto a graphics card. Shiny paint or not, the G10 is still nothing more than a ghetto rig, and one that leaves the VRM screaming for mercy at that. This type of setup can't be used with an additional or different pump, rad, res, etc. It is nothing more than a CLC (*closed* loop cooler).
> 
> And, yes, you can pick up a full cover block from a name brand (EK, Swiftech, HeatKiller, XSPC) for only a few dollars more and have proper cooling.
> 
> There is no place for the Kraken G10 in a loop with an external pump, reservoir and radiator. There is no place for a Kraken G10 to be used with a GPU block, period. Hence everyone's curiosity on what you possible had planned for the G10.


First of all the 105 is on the list of compatible coolers that will work with the G10, Second of all here is the post of Mr Dark using two of them one on each GPU (though they are 780's)
I have searched and found that a lot of different blocks will work with the G10, and they are simple to install. But besides that I have basically given up on the idea of using a G10 anyway. With the cost of a block and the G10 I could just as easily get a block for my GPU. Wait I have mentioned that here a page or two back.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Thanks for writing that, I totally agree and was getting confused at exactly what Madmaxneo was trying to get at.
> 
> Thing I really don't understand is Madmaxneo has a H240-X, just add a reservoir and gpu block to your existing system. That would be more cost effective and better performing. That is what I did to my H220-X and it works great.


Really? I have posted this like 4 or 5 times already, but: I want everything on separate loops so as to make it much more simple when performing maintenance on the loops. If I am going to change out my GPU I do not want to have to take out the entire loop! There are so many other reasons to do it this way. One huge advantage is much better temps. If you read the post in the link above Mr Dark goes to comment on his temps under load, which are awesome.
I also just discovered that EKWB has some AIO's where you can change the tubing and fittings out, plus you can mount them on the bottom of the case, which is what I am looking for.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> First of all the 105 is on the list of compatible coolers that will work with the G10, Second of all here is the post of Mr Dark using two of them one on each GPU (though they are 780's)
> I have searched and found that a lot of different blocks will work with the G10, and they are simple to install. But besides that I have basically given up on the idea of using a G10 anyway. With the cost of a block and the G10 I could just as easily get a block for my GPU. Wait I have mentioned that here a page or two back.......
> Really? I have posted this like 4 or 5 times already, but: I want everything on separate loops so as to make it much more simple when performing maintenance on the loops. If I am going to change out my GPU I do not want to have to take out the entire loop! There are so many other reasons to do it this way. One huge advantage is much better temps. If you read the post in the link above Mr Dark goes to comment on his temps under load, which are awesome.
> I also just discovered that EKWB has some AIO's where you can change the tubing and fittings out, plus you can mount them on the bottom of the case, which is what I am looking for.


Ugh.......THEY AREN'T GPU *BLOCKS*. That is what I am trying to tell you. They are CLCS ghetto rigged to a GP . Mr Dark has two ghetto rigged video cards, plain and simple. Mr Dark is a world behind what you are trying to do. You are looking at a bad example that is not representative of what you want to do.

Essentially, you are in the Ferrari showroom....and you are listening to some kid with a Civic who is saying "I put yellow stickers on to make it faster!!!!!".


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ugh.......THEY AREN'T GPU *BLOCKS*. That is what I am trying to tell you. They are CLCS ghetto rigged to a GP . Mr Dark has two ghetto rigged video cards, plain and simple. Mr Dark is a world behind what you are trying to do. You are looking at a bad example that is not representative of what you want to do.


Actually it is an example of what I am trying to do, it is almost exactly what I am trying to do but with a setup where I can change the tubing and all out easily.

Edit: Let me reiterate something.... I am not going to be using the G10 anymore. As it is no more or less cost effective than getting a full gpu waterblock.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Actually it is an example of what I am trying to do, it is almost exactly what I am trying to do but with a setup where I can change the tubing and all out easily.


But you *can't* do that with CLCs, and the Kraken G10 is Asetek CLC specific.........

You are setting up an open loop for your GPU. You are doing something far, far more advanced than this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It seems you are having a lot of confusion regarding GPU blocks as a whole, and the existence of the Kraken G10 is further convoluting it.
> 
> You are saying that it would cost you ~$100 for the block and the G10. However.....there are no blocks made to work with the G10. There are a bunch of universal GPU only (not full cover) blocks on the market, but none of them will fit with the G10 without some mod work - and even then most, if not all, of them wouldn't work.
> 
> But....you also referred to the H105 as a "GPU block" at one point.....and it isn't. It is a CLC made for a CPU that the Kraken G10 can ghetto rig onto a graphics card. Shiny paint or not, the G10 is still nothing more than a ghetto rig, and one that leaves the VRM screaming for mercy at that. This type of setup can't be used with an additional or different pump, rad, res, etc. It is nothing more than a CLC (*closed* loop cooler).
> 
> And, yes, you can pick up a full cover block from a name brand (EK, Swiftech, HeatKiller, XSPC) for only a few dollars more and have proper cooling.
> 
> There is no place for the Kraken G10 in a loop with an external pump, reservoir and radiator. There is no place for a Kraken G10 to be used with a GPU block, period. Hence everyone's curiosity on what you possible had planned for the G10.
> 
> 
> 
> First of all the 105 is on the list of compatible coolers that will work with the G10, Second of all here is the post of Mr Dark using two of them one on each GPU (though they are 780's)
> I have searched and found that a lot of different blocks will work with the G10, and they are simple to install. But besides that I have basically given up on the idea of using a G10 anyway. With the cost of a block and the G10 I could just as easily get a block for my GPU. Wait I have mentioned that here a page or two back.......
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Thanks for writing that, I totally agree and was getting confused at exactly what Madmaxneo was trying to get at.
> 
> Thing I really don't understand is Madmaxneo has a H240-X, just add a reservoir and gpu block to your existing system. That would be more cost effective and better performing. That is what I did to my H220-X and it works great.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Really? I have posted this like 4 or 5 times already, but: I want everything on separate loops so as to make it much more simple when performing maintenance on the loops. If I am going to change out my GPU I do not want to have to take out the entire loop! There are so many other reasons to do it this way. One huge advantage is much better temps. If you read the post in the link above Mr Dark goes to comment on his temps under load, which are awesome.
> I also just discovered that EKWB has some AIO's where you can change the tubing and fittings out, plus you can mount them on the bottom of the case, which is what I am looking for.
Click to expand...

we need to have a chat,

1 dual loops DO NOT have ANY benefits, more work, more stuff that can fail
2 they offer NO lower temps, if they do offer lower temps, you are doing something wrong

feel free to direct whoever told you that you get better temps in here, i will tell him the same.

3 as stated CLCs offer very poor performance.

you are not including any form of heatsink and adhesive for the vrms. so the vrms of your card will bake and you will either throttle horribly or blow your vrms


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> we need to have a chat,
> 
> 1 dual loops DO NOT have ANY benefits, more work, more stuff that can fail
> 2 they offer NO lower temps, if they do offer lower temps, you are doing something wrong
> 
> feel free to direct whoever told you that you get better temps in here, i will tell him the same.
> 
> 3 as stated CLCs offer very poor performance.
> 
> you are not including any form of heatsink and adhesive for the vrms. so the vrms of your card will bake and you will either throttle horribly or blow your vrms


1. Yes they do. Less to take out if I need to work on something particular to one part of the loop. I see that as an advantage. Putting everything in one loop means that you have that much more to remove just to flush the loop.
2. What kind of temps are you getting on your GPU(s) at full load? For example (the most recent): The aforementioned individual gets no higher than 41 deg C on his GPU's at full load (at least that is what he claims) and his GPU's are OC'd. I have heard of others with a big rad for one GPU with the same results.
What do you mean I am not including any form of heatsink for the VRMs? I guess you have not really been reading my posts..........


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> we need to have a chat,
> 
> 1 dual loops DO NOT have ANY benefits, more work, more stuff that can fail
> 2 they offer NO lower temps, if they do offer lower temps, you are doing something wrong
> 
> feel free to direct whoever told you that you get better temps in here, i will tell him the same.
> 
> 3 as stated CLCs offer very poor performance.
> 
> you are not including any form of heatsink and adhesive for the vrms. so the vrms of your card will bake and you will either throttle horribly or blow your vrms
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Yes they do. Less to take out if I need to work on something particular to one part of the loop. I see that as an advantage. Putting everything in one loop means that you have that much more to remove just to flush the loop.
> 2. What kind of temps are you getting on your GPU(s) at full load? For example (the most recent): The aforementioned individual gets no higher than 41 deg C on his GPU's at full load (at least that is what he claims) and his GPU's are OC'd. I have heard of others with a big rad for one GPU with the same results.
> What do you mean I am not including any form of heatsink for the VRMs? I guess you have not really been reading my posts..........
Click to expand...

1 they make ball valves and qdcs for a reason. imo the new gen takes flushing to far too much extent, i do all flushing outside of my case. why do it inside at all,

you only need to use water, why use other mumbo jumbo ? guess what we did before it ( the cleaning solution was out ? )
2he has a nvidia, you can not compare my temps with his, but i only get to 45c if i am doing suicide runs 1.6v via ab on 290s and 1.45+ ( bios editing) on 7970s

Franky the " time saved " with dual loops is really none. dual loops have a reason, aesthetics

i DID read you posts, you kept stating how the CLC was cheaper.

it isnt that is why either
1 you dont want the added stuff with water, ( that is fine ) which it sounds like to me

2 you accept it is not as super easy to work on

3 dont use hard line, super easy to move stuffs


----------



## jincuteguy

Just like how I predicted, Swiftech doesn't get anymore of these X2 and X2 prestige anymore, especially the H320 X2 Prestige, it's been out of stock .


----------



## Mega Man

huh, i

you know they are a small company ? shortages are always to be expected.... when i waited for fittings... hoho that was fun

as to oos, newegg has 90% of the models


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh, i
> 
> you know they are a small company ? shortages are always to be expected.... when i waited for fittings... hoho that was fun
> 
> as to oos, newegg has 90% of the models


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0AJ3Z74358&cm_re=swiftech_h320-_-35-108-219-_-Product

$320+? lol

Newegg are all sold out man


----------



## Mega Man

your right, i didnt check price, but they have the 220s


----------



## missalaire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Just like how I predicted, Swiftech doesn't get anymore of these X2 and X2 prestige anymore, especially the H320 X2 Prestige, it's been out of stock .


There were QC issues with some of them leaking so I'd hope they are being more careful with the next batch. I'd rather them take longer to get the next batch out and sort out those issues than get them out earlier.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 they make ball valves and qdcs for a reason. imo the new gen takes flushing to far too much extent, i do all flushing outside of my case. why do it inside at all,
> 
> you only need to use water, why use other mumbo jumbo ? guess what we did before it ( the cleaning solution was out ? )
> 2he has a nvidia, you can not compare my temps with his, but i only get to 45c if i am doing suicide runs 1.6v via ab on 290s and 1.45+ ( bios editing) on 7970s
> 
> Franky the " time saved " with dual loops is really none. dual loops have a reason, aesthetics
> 
> i DID read you posts, you kept stating how the CLC was cheaper.
> 
> it isnt that is why either
> 1 you dont want the added stuff with water, ( that is fine ) which it sounds like to me
> 
> 2 you accept it is not as super easy to work on
> 
> 3 dont use hard line, super easy to move stuffs


You're a little confusing.

As far as what I am going to use to cool the GPU, I stated that I will be going with a regular GPU block so anything else is not even important anymore.

BTW I am also going with nVidia.

Who said anything about what coolant I am going to use? Consequently I use distilled water but sometimes add some Mayhems XT-1.

I also remove my entire loop to flush my system and after what I went through with the old Danger Dan tubing I do not in any way want to have to go through that again with having anything else in a loop other than one component.... Every weekend for like a 6 weeks I was flushing and refilling and changing the tubing trying to figure out why my tubing was turning green. I finally ordered some much better tubing and the Danger Dan stuff was apparently the problem.
I was thinking of trying hardline out sometime in the future but probably not on this build. Right now it is a mess inside with all the wiring from all the fans and 4 drives and so much more..... I really need to redo all the wiring as it is starting to spill out from behind the MB....lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 they make ball valves and qdcs for a reason. imo the new gen takes flushing to far too much extent, i do all flushing outside of my case. why do it inside at all,
> 
> you only need to use water, why use other mumbo jumbo ? guess what we did before it ( the cleaning solution was out ? )
> 2he has a nvidia, you can not compare my temps with his, but i only get to 45c if i am doing suicide runs 1.6v via ab on 290s and 1.45+ ( bios editing) on 7970s
> 
> Franky the " time saved " with dual loops is really none. dual loops have a reason, aesthetics
> 
> i DID read you posts, you kept stating how the CLC was cheaper.
> 
> it isnt that is why either
> 1 you dont want the added stuff with water, ( that is fine ) which it sounds like to me
> 
> 2 you accept it is not as super easy to work on
> 
> 3 dont use hard line, super easy to move stuffs
> 
> 
> 
> You're a little confusing.
> 
> As far as what I am going to use to cool the GPU, I stated that I will be going with a regular GPU block so anything else is not even important anymore.
> 
> BTW I am also going with nVidia.
> 
> Who said anything about what coolant I am going to use? Consequently I use distilled water but sometimes add some Mayhems XT-1.
> 
> I also remove my entire loop to flush my system and after what I went through with the old Danger Dan tubing I do not in any way want to have to go through that again with having anything else in a loop other than one component.... Every weekend for like a 6 weeks I was flushing and refilling and changing the tubing trying to figure out why my tubing was turning green. I finally ordered some much better tubing and the Danger Dan stuff was apparently the problem.
> I was thinking of trying hardline out sometime in the future but probably not on this build. Right now it is a mess inside with all the wiring from all the fans and 4 drives and so much more..... I really need to redo all the wiring as it is starting to spill out from behind the MB....lol.
Click to expand...

sorry i can see that being more confusing, let me edit it a bit - sorry was dealing with my daughter at the time the underlined is what i changed, i hope it helps. other things like bold and colors are just for emphasis

1 they make ball valves and qdcs for a reason. this addresses having to empty your loop every single time

imo the new gen takes flushing to far too much extent, i do all flushing outside of my case. why do it inside at all, you dont need to flush your loop as much as i have seen you, tubing will turn colors, even your new tubing !

you only need to use water when you flush, why use other mumbo jumbo ( additives and what not ) ? guess what we did before itcame out { meaning the additives } ( the cleaning solution was out ? )
2 this was in response to " what are your gpu temps he has a nvidia, you can not compare my temps with his, but i only get to 45c if i am doing *suicide runs* this is important 1.6v via ab on 290s and 1.45+ ( bios editing) on 7970s if you are running water, and your gpu temps are not in the 30s you frankly are doing something wrong, now that said there are other reasons you can go higher. *IE you want silence IE a relaxed fan profile* GPUs are excessively easy to cool, "wanting cooler temps for your gpus " ( i am paraphrasing ) is a excessively poor reason to do 2 loops as is " less maint" esp when ( you will find i am right ) you will go, well my pc is down, why not do the maint on my cpu loop as well

Franky the " time saved " with dual loops is really none. *dual loops have a reason, aesthetics*

i DID read you posts, you kept stating how the CLC was cheaper.

it isnt that is why either this part was excessively hard to under stand, my fault and i am sorry this was my opinion. it comes from my observations of you/your posts

1 you dont want the added stuff IE maint/ hassle with water, ( *that is fine* ) which it sounds like to me just to emphasize water cooling is a hobby if you are not willing/dont want /dont have time to give it special attention, dont do it

2 you either need to accept it is not as super easy to work on or move on

3 also if you watercool, and want the flexibility dont use hard line, super easy to move stuffs when you use soft tubing. that said you can leave excess tubing in esp on oyur gpus that will make them super easy to remove feel free to use a CLC , they do save space, but in the end they will still ( even on gpus ) be not as good as "big air"


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Just like how I predicted, Swiftech doesn't get anymore of these X2 and X2 prestige anymore, especially the H320 X2 Prestige, it's been out of stock .


I ordered my h320 x2 prestige from a site called gigaparts just 1 week ago


----------



## TheEnergy

For the h320 x2 owners out there; is the dye supposed to be super pale/clear colored? I expected a dark blue but this is what I got?




I used probably *90%* of the UV blue dye, I couldn't use anymore because the radiator/resovoir was overfilling.

Any input? Figured it would be dark blue like the stock pictures showed:


----------



## HarryNotPotter

How would i go about changing the Fittings on the H320x2? i picked one up along side some primoflex 3/8 x 1/2 tubing and fittings (And it's the regular h320x2 non prestige


----------



## seblura

Anyone who got a swiftech h220 who dosent use it anymore







?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HarryNotPotter*
> 
> How would i go about changing the Fittings on the H320x2? i picked one up along side some primoflex 3/8 x 1/2 tubing and fittings (And it's the regular h320x2 non prestige


They are standard G1/4.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HarryNotPotter*
> 
> How would i go about changing the Fittings on the H320x2? i picked one up along side some primoflex 3/8 x 1/2 tubing and fittings (And it's the regular h320x2 non prestige


i believe they are just normal screw in fittings, they just have barbs instead of compression . at the base, with the tubing remobed, you should see where you can put a wrench


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For the h320 x2 owners out there; is the dye supposed to be super pale/clear colored? I expected a dark blue but this is what I got?


That is what is to be expected. If you want it darker, grab another bottle of the dye from Mayhems. Just keep in mind that the tubes will always be much lighter than the reservoir.

And removing a little fluid prior to putting the dye in will keep it from overflowing, and you put back in what is needed. Kind of common sense.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i believe they are just normal screw in fittings, they just have barbs instead of compression . at the base, with the tubing remobed, you should see where you can put a wrench


Yes, they are normal screw in. Nothing unusual about them.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is what is to be expected. If you want it darker, grab another bottle of the dye from Mayhems. Just keep in mind that the tubes will always be much lighter than the reservoir.
> 
> And removing a little fluid prior to putting the dye in will keep it from overflowing, and you put back in what is needed. Kind of common sense.


Thank you. I never had clear tubes/put in dye so had no idea what to expect. I think I must have looked at too many images of water cooling setups online that use colored tubing or pastel dyes because I expected a thick, dark, and non-transparent blue.

Do you know if I can power down the PC maybe, and try to put a little more blue dye thats remaining in the bottle in possibly? I said earlier it was overflowing, but I don't know if cycling on the PC /pump maybe have moved air bubbles /created more space for more fluid?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## bluedevil

Thinking about nabbing a H240X2, but no place has the Prestige in stock. Anyone upgrade the stock H240X2 to compression fittings or go hard line tubing? Also would like to add 2 GPU blocks and a MCR320XP to the loop as well. Any issues with that? From what I gather, it looks totally capable.









Thanks in advance!


----------



## Agnivanshi

Hey guys,

I have Swiftech H320 and i just noticed that my pump is making some humming reactor type noise which wasn't present earlier. I bought this last year around July. Any ideas how to get rid of it or is the pump broke?

Don't think my temps are affected by this.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agnivanshi*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have Swiftech H320 and i just noticed that my pump is making some humming reactor type noise which wasn't present earlier. I bought this last year around July. Any ideas how to get rid of it or is the pump broke?
> 
> Don't think my temps are affected by this.


Probably a little low on fluid due to evaporation. Top it off with distilled water and you should be good.


----------



## Agnivanshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Probably a little low on fluid due to evaporation. Top it off with distilled water and you should be good.


Yeah i live in India and the climate here is brutal so it's possible. Any guide or video instructions from where i can learn and do it myself?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For the h320 x2 owners out there; is the dye supposed to be super pale/clear colored? I expected a dark blue but this is what I got?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used probably *90%* of the UV blue dye, I couldn't use anymore because the radiator/resovoir was overfilling.
> 
> Any input? Figured it would be dark blue like the stock pictures showed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Honestly that pic has been photo shopped. I have noticed a difference in some of the pics Swiftech posts and actual reviews from end users on youtube.

One thing to note that when filling your radiator you need to leave some space for the water to expand for when it warms up, not much just a little. This is based on advice from others. I have noticed that when refilling my loop and leaving a few minor bubbles in that those bubbles disappear within a day or two. So be careful when adding dye or additives and what not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HarryNotPotter*
> 
> How would i go about changing the Fittings on the H320x2? i picked one up along side some primoflex 3/8 x 1/2 tubing and fittings (And it's the regular h320x2 non prestige


It is just like using or installing any other custom loop. If this will be your first time doing anything like that then they unscrew in a normal fashion, counter-clockwise to unscrew, like anything else. You might need to use some rubber coated pliers or something of the like. You may scratch up the surface of the fitting if you use regular pliers.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> For the h320 x2 owners out there; is the dye supposed to be super pale/clear colored? I expected a dark blue but this is what I got?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used probably *90%* of the UV blue dye, I couldn't use anymore because the radiator/resovoir was overfilling.
> 
> Any input? Figured it would be dark blue like the stock pictures showed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey, those case fans are black? Did your EVOLV come with those case fans or did you them swap out? Mine have a black fan housing with white blades/hub.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So what could watercoolers do with a personal Air Conditioner?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hey, those case fans are black? Did your EVOLV come with those case fans or did you them swap out? Mine have a black fan housing with white blades/hub.


Galaxy silver comes with black, others probably could have been updated though.


----------



## ufokillerz

i have a pair of h320 prestige, one with the green dye and one with the red dye. They are both very clear, but the color is visible. The color is not dark like the pictures.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I ordered my h320 x2 prestige from a site called gigaparts just 1 week ago


And how much did you pay?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So what could watercoolers do with a personal Air Conditioner?


that is not a real ac, that is just a evaporative cooler ( AKA a swamp cooler. )

you can tell because it "humidifies"

real air conditioners DEhumidify as a natural part of making cold air, but that is a part of how it "conditions" the air for us to feel more comfortable

you can have air conditioners that add a humidifier of various sorts ( IE see either Liebert crack units or lennox humiditrol { the commercial units can also humidify although i have yet to see it work... in CO } units, both attempt to control humidity if programed to )


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is not a real ac, that is just a evaporative cooler ( AKA a swamp cooler. )
> 
> you can tell because it "humidifies"
> 
> real air conditioners DEhumidify as a natural part of making cold air, but that is a part of how it "conditions" the air for us to feel more comfortable
> 
> you can have air conditioners that add a humidifier of various sorts ( IE see either Liebert crack units or lennox humiditrol { the commercial units can also humidify although i have yet to see it work... in CO } units, both attempt to control humidity if programed to )


Yeah I noticed that it was not a real AC. But what if you could have one that small? I wonder what ways modders like those on here would come up with to use it on their system?

I had an idea and was wondering if it would help with temps any and if there were ever any concepts or products like it?
My idea was to take a custom waterloop and in addition to having a water block an air cooler would be on top. Basically it would take the water cooling part of the cold plate but the top part of it would be replaced with a fin tower with a fan attached to it. I wonder if anyone has every tried building something like that.

My room was up to 83 deg today. We tried the central AC and it apparently needs to be recharged. My GPU got up to 41 deg under normal operation and the cpu was also running around the mid 30's.

EDIT: for that matter why not put a small rad and fan over the CPU to go with the loop.....


----------



## Mega Man

https://news.samsung.com/global/what-the-new-samsung-mini-rotary-compressor-means

they make them but useless. you deal with condensation at anything below ambient ( dewpoint really )

as to a "hybrid cpu cooler" it would be pointless, you can not get the cooling down to the bottom of a block.

as to and "ac" system, look into phase change and chillers ( PC chillers / aquarium chillers not building chillers )

yes they have / are being done

IMO no reason to use a "small" compressor, it will cost the same as a phase change by the time you are done

also fyi if your ac "needs to be recharged" it need a leak check, home acs dont ever "need" to be recharged if everything is functioning properly cars are a bit of a different story as they have rubber hoses. it can seep out of the rubber but not the copper

check your filter, you would be amazed at how often it is the problem


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://news.samsung.com/global/what-the-new-samsung-mini-rotary-compressor-means
> 
> 
> 
> they make them but useless. you deal with condensation at anything below ambient ( dewpoint really )
> 
> as to a "hybrid cpu cooler" it would be pointless, you can not get the cooling down to the bottom of a block.
> 
> as to and "ac" system, look into phase change and chillers ( PC chillers / aquarium chillers not building chillers )
> 
> yes they have / are being done
> 
> IMO no reason to use a "small" compressor, it will cost the same as a phase change by the time you are done
> 
> also fyi if your ac "needs to be recharged" it need a leak check, home acs dont ever "need" to be recharged if everything is functioning properly cars are a bit of a different story as they have rubber hoses. it can seep out of the rubber but not the copper
> 
> check your filter, you would be amazed at how often it is the problem


We already know what the problem is. It is central AC and the evaporator coils need to be replaced. Recharging it only costs $80 but replacing the evap coils costs something like $450. I believe that was their quoted cost. I checked the competitors in the area last year and their prices were higher.
I know how to take care of the residence. So I don't need advice in that area. I was simply relating how warm it got today in the house.

You said "as to a "hybrid cpu cooler" it would be pointless, you can not get the cooling down to the bottom of a block."
So I ask why not?
It would work the same as a water block because it would still be a water block on the bottom but the top part of the plate would still be metal and have a cooling tower on top with pipes that would lead down to the cooling plate. I would like to see something like this in action and to see if it would improve temps or not. Basically if it was another rad it would be adding a second rad to the loop but with the second rad having direct contact to the cold plate. Even if it was an air cooler there is a possibility that it would improve temps some. If I had the equipment I would try to build something like this and try it out on my old core 2 quad system.


----------



## Mega Man

1
i am a service tech for ac, i was trying to give you free professional advice, evap coils CAN fail but RARELY do, you probably have a leak. someone is probably taking you for a ride, if your EVAP coil did fail, you think breathing in r22/410a is good for you or your family ?

2
there is TOO MUCH copper for any " hybrid " to work, you do realize in all modern HS the tubing has some form of refrigerant in it dont you ? and they take said tubes and put it as close to the ihs as possible

also water is far to efficient as a thermal conductor, that is why water works so well.

you want to waste you money feel free. frankly i am done with the attitude


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> https://news.samsung.com/global/what-the-new-samsung-mini-rotary-compressor-means
> 
> they make them but useless. you deal with condensation at anything below ambient ( dewpoint really )
> 
> as to a "hybrid cpu cooler" it would be pointless, you can not get the cooling down to the bottom of a block.
> 
> as to and "ac" system, look into phase change and chillers ( PC chillers / aquarium chillers not building chillers )
> 
> yes they have / are being done
> 
> IMO no reason to use a "small" compressor, it will cost the same as a phase change by the time you are done
> 
> also fyi if your ac "needs to be recharged" it need a leak check, home acs dont ever "need" to be recharged if everything is functioning properly cars are a bit of a different story as they have rubber hoses. it can seep out of the rubber but not the copper
> 
> check your filter, you would be amazed at how often it is the problem


The mini compressors are cute







Not a terribly practical idea, but you could have a custom water loop and instead of a traditional radiator, run the hot water thru a heat exchanger with a mini ac loop on the other side. Definitely wouldn't be a sound optimized setup.


----------



## Mega Man

Shh he knows more then everyone and most of those small ones are useless in terms of today's pcs


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> i am a service tech for ac, i was trying to give you free professional advice, evap coils CAN fail but RARELY do, you probably have a leak. someone is probably taking you for a ride, if your EVAP coil did fail, you think breathing in r22/410a is good for you or your family ?
> 
> 2
> there is TOO MUCH copper for any " hybrid " to work, you do realize in all modern HS the tubing has some form of refrigerant in it dont you ? and they take said tubes and put it as close to the ihs as possible
> 
> also water is far to efficient as a thermal conductor, that is why water works so well.
> 
> you want to waste you money feel free. frankly i am done with the attitude


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> i am a service tech for ac, i was trying to give you free professional advice, evap coils CAN fail but RARELY do, you probably have a leak. someone is probably taking you for a ride, if your EVAP coil did fail, you think breathing in r22/410a is good for you or your family ?
> 
> 2
> there is TOO MUCH copper for any " hybrid " to work, you do realize in all modern HS the tubing has some form of refrigerant in it dont you ? and they take said tubes and put it as close to the ihs as possible
> 
> also water is far to efficient as a thermal conductor, that is why water works so well.
> 
> you want to waste you money feel free. frankly i am done with the attitude


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Shh he knows more then everyone and most of those small ones are useless in terms of today's pcs


I am sorry but you are the one with the attitude. I was commenting on ideas I have and you believe this and this will not work because I really do not think you understand what I am saying.. I also never said I would actually do this thing but I think it would be fun to see what the results are. Maybe I will try it one day maybe not, I probably will not have the time. I commented on what is going on in my home and you started making comments about what I should do. I did not ask for your advice in that area nor do I want it.

If there is anyone here that thinks they know everything it is you. Would you please get off of your high horse?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The mini compressors are cute
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a terribly practical idea, but you could have a custom water loop and instead of a traditional radiator, run the hot water thru a heat exchanger with a mini ac loop on the other side. Definitely wouldn't be a sound optimized setup.


Haha "cute".... I like that... Yeah most of that stuff is not practical. I can only imagine what the sound would be like. I know of quite a few others that have basically hooked up one of those "portable" AC units on wheels to their PC's and wow did they look messed up...lol. Basically they used tube ducting to force the AC air directly into their PC. I can only imagine what the heat was like outside of that because they had no ducting leading outside of the room.... I know those things put off some heat because one command I was at used those a lot.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> i am a service tech for ac, i was trying to give you free professional advice, evap coils CAN fail but RARELY do, you probably have a leak. someone is probably taking you for a ride, if your EVAP coil did fail, you think breathing in r22/410a is good for you or your family ?
> 
> 2
> there is TOO MUCH copper for any " hybrid " to work, you do realize in all modern HS the tubing has some form of refrigerant in it dont you ? and they take said tubes and put it as close to the ihs as possible
> 
> also water is far to efficient as a thermal conductor, that is why water works so well.
> 
> you want to waste you money feel free. frankly i am done with the attitude
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> i am a service tech for ac, i was trying to give you free professional advice, evap coils CAN fail but RARELY do, you probably have a leak. someone is probably taking you for a ride, if your EVAP coil did fail, you think breathing in r22/410a is good for you or your family ?
> 
> 2
> there is TOO MUCH copper for any " hybrid " to work, you do realize in all modern HS the tubing has some form of refrigerant in it dont you ? and they take said tubes and put it as close to the ihs as possible
> 
> also water is far to efficient as a thermal conductor, that is why water works so well.
> 
> you want to waste you money feel free. frankly i am done with the attitude
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Shh he knows more then everyone and most of those small ones are useless in terms of today's pcs
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am sorry but you are the one with the attitude. I was commenting on ideas I have and you believe this and this will not work because I really do not think you understand what I am saying.. I also never said I would actually do this thing but I think it would be fun to see what the results are. Maybe I will try it one day maybe not, I probably will not have the time. I commented on what is going on in my home and you started making comments about what I should do. I did not ask for your advice in that area nor do I want it.
> 
> If there is anyone here that thinks they know everything it is you. Would you please get off of your high horse?
Click to expand...

Right. I am the one arguing with any and all advice *anyone* is giving even though we all are parroting the same thing. Oh well done wasting my time.

Please go back and listen to youtube, they are obviously right


----------



## doyll

Evaporation coolers work very well in low humidity climates. But if air is not very low humidity they just increase the humidity and you end up with humid heat .. which feels much hotter than dry heat. A swamp cooler in dry climate does not had condensation problems, but I would still be very careful with one around electronics. The problem with those little swamp coolers being used in a room is they are self-defeating. They increase humidity in the room, meaning room reaches a humidity level that will no longer evaporated water from the swamp coolers mats resulting in no lowering of temps .. muggy heat is the result.

Mega Man's advice is spot on.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I mentioned yesterday how it was up to 82 deg (probably more at some point) in my room yesterday. I got up at 1 am last night and opened some more windows because it was not getting any cooler. When I got up at 630 today. It was cold. Less than 70 deg! First thing I noticed was my gpu temps were about 30 deg and my cpu temps were about 20 deg.....lol.
FYI, the humidity here is pretty low. In fact during the winter it is way below what is considered to be healthy, but that is this area. I run a humidifier and it barely gets up to a low 20%. Today though the humidity is in the high 50's.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am sorry but you are the one with the attitude. I was commenting on ideas I have and you believe this and this will not work because I really do not think you understand what I am saying.. I also never said I would actually do this thing but I think it would be fun to see what the results are. Maybe I will try it one day maybe not, I probably will not have the time. I commented on what is going on in my home and you started making comments about what I should do. I did not ask for your advice in that area nor do I want it.
> 
> If there is anyone here that thinks they know everything it is you. Would you please get off of your high horse?


here's the beauty of it...there's a block feature if you don't like someone's posts...mega is blunt and will give opinions without provocation but a large percentage of the time it's great advice..personally I think you both had some tude going but it doesn't make what he said invalid....the reason the hybrid cooler hasn't been done is because it was tried before but did not decrease temperatures enough to be viable as a marketable solution...the other issue is the tubing would be required to enter into the sides of the block making the cold plate too thick to thermally transfer the heat more efficiently than the water block already does...interesting would be to have an air cooler with internal tubes and a block plate exactly like a water block to the component with a single pass design in and out the top of the dual tower cooler...that might actually work...then the air cooler/block would act as a radiator as well...but it probably wouldn't work any better than adding an 120mm rad to an existing loop


----------



## ciarlatano

Any chance there can be discussion of Swiftech AiO coolers in this thread? It has been dragged in every direction but that one.

Mini air conditioners, CLCs on GPUs, refrigerant leaks.....not exactly on topic.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> here's the beauty of it...there's a block feature if you don't like someone's posts...mega is blunt and will give opinions without provocation but a large percentage of the time it's great advice..personally I think you both had some tude going but it doesn't make what he said invalid....the reason the hybrid cooler hasn't been done is because it was tried before but did not decrease temperatures enough to be viable as a marketable solution...the other issue is the tubing would be required to enter into the sides of the block making the cold plate too thick to thermally transfer the heat more efficiently than the water block already does...interesting would be to have an air cooler with internal tubes and a block plate exactly like a water block to the component with a single pass design in and out the top of the dual tower cooler...that might actually work...then the air cooler/block would act as a radiator as well...but it probably wouldn't work any better than adding an 120mm rad to an existing loop


So it has been tried before....interesting. Is there a site or thread on this? I figured the block would be to big to be any kind of effective but I was wondering how it might all work together. I am a tinkerer and I like to tinker with things and see if they will work better or worse. I have not really messed with anything like that since the early 80's when I connected an old TV to my stereo system to get 4 speaker sound....lol. I was surprised at how well it worked. With my recent (last two years) in tinkering with my CPU and overclocking I think I may have struck a tinkering nerve...lol.
I am not really sure even adding an air cooler above the cold plate would be very effective either but you never know. I said as much about it not working any better than an additional rad and probably not as good. It would be an interesting project to take on just to see what the results would be. Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to manufacture the parts to do something like this.....I would need a specially designed cold plate that I could actually mount an air cooler on top of that would not interfere with the tubing.........


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So it has been tried before....interesting. Is there a site or thread on this? I figured the block would be to big to be any kind of effective but I was wondering how it might all work together. I am a tinkerer and I like to tinker with things and see if they will work better or worse. I have not really messed with anything like that since the early 80's when I connected an old TV to my stereo system to get 4 speaker sound....lol. I was surprised at how well it worked. With my recent (last two years) in tinkering with my CPU and overclocking I think I may have struck a tinkering nerve...lol.
> I am not really sure even adding an air cooler above the cold plate would be very effective either but you never know. I said as much about it not working any better than an additional rad and probably not as good. It would be an interesting project to take on just to see what the results would be. Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to manufacture the parts to do something like this.....I would need a specially designed cold plate that I could actually mount an air cooler on top of that would not interfere with the tubing.........


last of topic for me but here's an example done similarly to what I said

https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/hybrid-cooling-review/70443


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> last of topic for me but here's an example done similarly to what I said
> 
> https://forum.teksyndicate.com/t/hybrid-cooling-review/70443


Awesome! Their is also this old thread here on OCN.

Consequently That is a little different that what I imagined though it would work better. I am seeing something like an EVO 212 but with the new Apogee block Swiftech has and maybe a little redesign on the piping. I think slightly larger pipes would work better also. It is not very practical but even if it did work and improve temps some you could get the same or better temps with two rads. Though it would be something those with limited rad space would consider.

I wonder if Swiftech has an R&D division where they experiment with different ideas. If so I wonder what they have tried and what is being tested right now? It isn't important.

Right now I am interested in getting that new Apogee XL2 block and seeing if it will get better performance than the Apogee XL I have now, which is the standard one that came with my H240-X


----------



## n64ADL

have you guys had any leaks with this unit, been debating about this unit or the EK 360 predator?? i've heard numerous complaints about this companies liquid cooling products.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Awesome! Their is also this old thread here on OCN.
> 
> Consequently That is a little different that what I imagined though it would work better. I am seeing something like an EVO 212 but with the new Apogee block Swiftech has and maybe a little redesign on the piping. I think slightly larger pipes would work better also. It is not very practical but even if it did work and improve temps some you could get the same or better temps with two rads. Though it would be something those with limited rad space would consider.
> 
> I wonder if Swiftech has an R&D division where they experiment with different ideas. If so I wonder what they have tried and what is being tested right now? It isn't important.
> 
> Right now I am interested in getting that new Apogee XL2 block and seeing if it will get better performance than the Apogee XL I have now, which is the standard one that came with my H240-X


there's a question I've been wondering myself...the new block is supposed to be better but I haven't seen someone use both on the same kit for comparison


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> have you guys had any leaks with this unit, been debating about this unit or the EK 360 predator?? i've heard numerous complaints about this companies liquid cooling products.


You mean the Predator that was recalled because they all leaked?

How does Swiftech get this bad rep for what is 90% user error, while EK gets a complete pass after releasing two revs with huge leak issues....and an entire rad line that sprung leaks due to poor mfg?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mean the Predator that was recalled because they all leaked?
> 
> How does Swiftech get this bad rep for what is 90% user error, while EK gets a complete pass after releasing two revs with huge leak issues....and an entire rad line that sprung leaks due to poor mfg?


well to be fair we've seen a few leaks here...I'm thinking other less educated forums and yahoo questions probably fuel a lot of this...ek had some issues...but I will say they did right by those willing to work with them even replacing expensive setups that were lost as a result....


----------



## n64ADL

ohhh...............


----------



## n64ADL

would you recommend swiftech over EK???


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> ohhh...............


you're looking at about a 3 percent failure/leak amount meaning 3 out of every hundred or 30 out of every 1000...not horrible by any means


----------



## n64ADL

can you replace the tubes for longer ones??? thinking about putting this on the bottom of my phanteks luxe case?


----------



## n64ADL

for the swifttech H240X*


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> can you replace the tubes for longer ones??? thinking about putting this on the bottom of my phanteks luxe case?


Of course. It is open loop and uses all G1/4 fittings, with 3/8" x 5/8' tubing out of the box. However, you can not mount it pump/res facing up. So, you could mount it in the top or front f a Luxe, but not the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> would you recommend swiftech over EK???


Well.....the Swiftechs offer better performance, lower noise, lower price, better looks and have a far more reliable track record....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> for the swifttech H240X*


Also, the Luxe does not accommodate a 280mm rad in teh bottom without a little modification. It is made for a 240mm.


----------



## ufokillerz

i had a leaky ek predator 360.
i have 2x h320 x2 prestige that doesn't leak
and have a h240x that does not leak


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course. It is open loop and uses all G1/4 fittings, with 3/8" x 5/8' tubing out of the box. However, you can not mount it pump/res facing up. So, you could mount it in the top or front f a Luxe, but not the bottom.
> Well.....the Swiftechs offer better performance, lower noise, lower price, better looks and have a far more reliable track record....
> Also, the Luxe does not accommodate a 280mm rad in teh bottom without a little modification. It is made for a 240mm.


I barely fit a 280 in the bottom of my pro (alphacool st30 280)but it's largely dependant on the psu size and thickness of the rad if the psu had been any longer or the rad any thicker it never would have worked...it was quite lucky on a lot of things...so yeah still definitely a no you don't want that hassle...either way the shroud isnt usable at that point... 240 and thicker will do just as well and alleviate the space issues and better 120mm fans too


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> there's a question I've been wondering myself...the new block is supposed to be better but I haven't seen someone use both on the same kit for comparison


As far as I can tell the Apogee XL2 is not yet available for sale by itself. You can only get it in one of their AIOs.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ufokillerz*
> 
> i had a leaky ek predator 360.
> i have 2x h320 x2 prestige that doesn't leak
> and have a h240x that does not leak


yea but you can't really get a H320 X2 Prestige now anymore, they're pretty much sold out everywhere or jacked up the price. And seems like Swiftech doesn't get anymore of them in stock. I think they're pretty much done with selling them. They always do that with every AIO they released. Like sell a lot in the beginning and then stop getting them. so pretty much you have to buy them when they released, or you won't get them at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> yea but you can't really get a H320 X2 Prestige now anymore, they're pretty much sold out everywhere or jacked up the price. And seems like Swiftech doesn't get anymore of them in stock. I think they're pretty much done with selling them. They always do that with every AIO they released. Like sell a lot in the beginning and then stop getting them. so pretty much you have to buy them when they released, or you won't get them at all.


What is with you and this Swiftech "stops getting them" fantasy? They don't "stop getting" anything. They are a manufacturer. A *small* manufacturer who makes a highly desirable product. Demand is higher than what they are able to produce. There is also shipping and customs to deal with, which both can be unpredictable. They have new resellers to stock, so allotments to each might be smaller. Gigaparts currently has the whole line in stock. PPCs has every piece in stock excepting the 320 Prestige which they are taking pre-orders on because they have a confirmed shipment coming in.

I have never seen someone with such an incredible lack of understanding of the basics of manufacturing and selling, that instead needs to make up some storyline about the product in their head and even give it a falsified history.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What is with you and this Swiftech "stops getting them" fantasy? They don't "stop getting" anything. They are a manufacturer. A *small* manufacturer who makes a highly desirable product. Demand is higher than what they are able to produce. There is also shipping and customs to deal with, which both can be unpredictable. They have new resellers to stock, so allotments to each might be smaller. Gigaparts currently has the whole line in stock. PPCs has every piece in stock excepting the 320 Prestige which they are taking pre-orders on because they have a confirmed shipment coming in.
> 
> I have never seen someone with such an incredible lack of understanding of the basics of manufacturing and selling, that instead needs to make up some storyline about the product in their head and even give it a falsified history.


Sorry but PPCs doesnt' have them in stock, H240 X2 Prestige is Out Of Stock, along with H320.
Gigaparts are selling them in a marked up price, $290 for H320 Prestige? what a rip off.

Im telling the truth bro, you prob haven't checked anything on their website or other resellers Like Newegg, amazon...
And I'm not talking to you , why did you argue with me for nothing? I don't deal with stuff like that, sorry bro.

Im telling ppl here so that they know if they're looking for a Swiftech AIO as of right now because it's realy hard to get one.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Im telling the truth bro, you prob haven't checked anything on their website or other resellers Like Newegg, amazon...


I understand that they are out of stock on their own site....because they *supply their vendors first*. PPCs and the like will *get the first stock*. They are liquid cooling specialty sellers. Mainstream big box sites are not Swiftech's main vendors.

You really don't get how any of this works.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I understand that they are out of stock on their own site....because they *supply their vendors first*. PPCs and the like will *get the first stock*. They are liquid cooling specialty sellers. Mainstream big box sites are not Swiftech's main vendors.
> 
> You really don't get how any of this works.


Did you even read what I said?
Sorry but PPCs doesnt' have them in stock, H240 X2 Prestige is Out Of Stock, along with H320.
Gigaparts are selling them in a marked up price, $290 for H320 Prestige? what a rip off.

It's really hard to get a H320 prestige right now. Gigaparts is ripping ppl off, $290 for H320 prestige compare to the original price is $215.
You're telling me I dont understand how this works? I think you're the one that don't get it bro.


----------



## Caos

I arrived today, trying to see if there are leaks, is beautiful, incredible building, I come from a h220x


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> I arrived today, trying to see if there are leaks, is beautiful, incredible building, I come from a h220x


Is this 240X2 Prestige? and where did you order from?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Is this 240X2 Prestige? and where did you order from?


Must not be. According to you the entire line has been discontinued.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Is this 240X2 Prestige? and where did you order from?


It is the h220x2 prestige, and buy from Newegg


----------



## jincuteguy

Yea Newegg still has the H220 prestige, but 240 prestige and H320 prestige are sold out.


----------



## n64ADL

i think i'll go with the Swiftech H220 X2 that would fit pretty well in my case, microcenter doesnt have the other one available. i got over $100 in microcenter gift cards. how long should i stress test the cpu cooler to check for leaking?? how many extra gpus can i add to this loop with this model, considering liquid cooling gpus later on with polaris??


----------



## Mega Man

They *shouldn't* leak and are tested prior to shopping, some brave souls just throw them in others 2 hours. Others overnight or a week. Do what you feel confidante with.

2 hours is the least time I would recommend.

If it was going into my rig with around 10k of equip, I would leak test a ton.

Of it was going into a right with 100 worth of gear, less time (2 hours)


----------



## n64ADL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They *shouldn't* leak and are tested prior to shopping, some brave souls just throw them in others 2 hours. Others overnight or a week. Do what you feel confidante with.
> 
> 2 hours is the least time I would recommend.
> 
> If it was going into my rig with around 10k of equip, I would leak test a ton.
> 
> Of it was going into a right with 100 worth of gear, less time (2 hours)


my equipment is close to over 1.5K, so yeah i'll be cautious. thanks for the two hour reference i'll be sure to do that.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> would you recommend swiftech over EK???


haha.. u ask this question in the swiftech thread


----------



## NFL

Would I be able an H220x2 (or 240x2) in the front of a Define S Nano and still be able to fit an average size GPU?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hey, those case fans are black? Did your EVOLV come with those case fans or did you them swap out? Mine have a black fan housing with white blades/hub.


Those are the stock black fans mate, and its the Evolv ATX in galaxy silver (just ordered it from newegg 1-2weeks ago)


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> And how much did you pay?


regular price sir, so it was about 200$ or so for the prestige version, as you noticed, it was OOS on newegg and everywhere else.

The only other cooler i considered was the EK Predator 360, but choose the swiftech because I had the 220 before and knew swiftech was quality. I also wanted colored tubing.

I will say now though, I may have considered the EK predator more because I don't know if I like all the LED colors to be honest.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> regular price sir, so it was about 200$ or so for the prestige version, as you noticed, it was OOS on newegg and everywhere else.
> 
> The only other cooler i considered was the EK Predator 360, but choose the swiftech because I had the 220 before and knew swiftech was quality. I also wanted colored tubing.
> 
> I will say now though, I may have considered the EK predator more because I don't know if I like all the LED colors to be honest.


I'm kinda glad i got the previous model for the black tubing and non-transparent block housing and boxy res. I've put a cover over the res window and unplugged the lights in there. I'd rather have more time between servicing than lights, and keeping it dark should help prevent algae and may even help the coolant's chemical composition stay as it should for longer.

Having said that, the tube res setup does look quite nice, how it magnifies the pump intake is pretty cool.


----------



## Caos

Hello.. already mounted


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello.. already mounted
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!

Do you or anyone know which version of the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans come with the unit? I was thinking of getting a couple of those for my H240-X but there are at least 5 different types on ebay that I have looked at so far. The ones I have looked at so far are series B12-1, B12-2, B12-4, B14-PS, B14-3, and a regular Bionic.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Do you or anyone know which version of the Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans come with the unit? I was thinking of getting a couple of those for my H240-X but there are at least 5 different types on ebay that I have looked at so far. The ones I have looked at so far are series B12-1, B12-2, B12-4, B14-PS, B14-3, and a regular Bionic.


There is no retail version of the fan included with the H240-X2. The B14-PS is PWM, but only 1200 rpm.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is no retail version of the fan included with the H240-X2. The B14-PS is PWM, but only 1200 rpm.


But they are included with the prestige units.
I am asking because Swiftech has commented that the noiseblocker fans included with the Prestige units perform better than the original Helix (?) fans on their rads.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But they are included with the prestige units.
> I am asking because Swiftech has commented that the noiseblocker fans included with the Prestige units perform better than the original Helix (?) fans on their rads.


The only way to get that particular fan at the present time is included with the kit. There is no individual retail version available separately.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello.. already mounted


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello.. already mounted


Wow, we almost have the same outter look to our build (dominators with h320 x2 and windforce? what case is that?)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The only way to get that particular fan at the present time is included with the kit. There is no individual retail version available separately.


It figures as the same goes with that Apogee XL2 block that I would love to get my hands on.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Wow, we almost have the same outter look to our build (dominators with h320 x2 and windforce? what case is that?)


your build is very nice too. xtreme gtx 980 ti and the case is a 780t


----------



## ghostrider85

anyone know how to clean up the tube res in this AIO? mine is gunked up with mayhems x1 coolant, can the tube res be detatched or something? i wonder if i can just buy another tube res? or just the radiator assembly? not the whole package


----------



## Mega Man

which one do you have, i assume the newest model ? h220x2 ?


----------



## ufokillerz

misread- please ignore


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> which one do you have, i assume the newest model ? h220x2 ?


Yes, the newest version, h240x2


----------



## Mega Man

i dunno on that one sorry wait for swiftech to respond or another user :/


----------



## Nick-F

. Put some EKoolant pastel blue into my new H240 X2 prestige , lovin the look .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> anyone know how to clean up the tube res in this AIO? mine is gunked up with mayhems x1 coolant, can the tube res be detatched or something? i wonder if i can just buy another tube res? or just the radiator assembly? not the whole package


It should still be under warranty. If you have not already I would contact Swiftech support and see what they say about it.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It should still be under warranty. If you have not already I would contact Swiftech support and see what they say about it.


I don't think that this should be covered under warranty as i used another coolant


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It should still be under warranty. If you have not already I would contact Swiftech support and see what they say about it.


Damage caused by another manufacturer's coolant is not covered under warranty.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> I don't think that this should be covered under warranty as i used another coolant


I didn't realize that


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> anyone know how to clean up the tube res in this AIO? mine is gunked up with mayhems x1 coolant, can the tube res be detatched or something? i wonder if i can just buy another tube res? or just the radiator assembly? not the whole package


As ciarlatano said, it is not a Swiftech warranty problem, but if it was mine I would contact Swiftech and ask what they would suggest.

I wonder how many of these color additive problems are the result of too high a concentrate ratio of additive to coolant or of mixing incomparable additives?


----------



## ciarlatano

I don't want to sound mean.....but I just don't get it when I see this in builds, and we see it all the time here:


You go through the trouble of draining and refilling, and don't take the extra few minutes to cut the tubing to fit the build.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't want to sound mean.....but I just don't get it when I see this in builds, and we see it all the time here:
> 
> 
> You go through the trouble of draining and refilling, and don't take the extra few minutes to cut the tubing to fit the build.


I didn't cut mine because I had plans for expansion and didn't know if I would need the lengths for another area









Another good reason not to is the extra length can allow you to get hands or other items in that working area for say installation of a vrm fan....you would've lost your head if you seen the first time I expanded I had about 16 extra inches of tubing from gpu to the swiftech unit because I was going to need to split it when the next rad cane in and didn't want to come up short


----------



## ciarlatano

NM.....


----------



## rfarmer

I have a slide out radiator bracket, leaving extra length on tubing allows me to slide it out and access the fill port without having to remove anything.


----------



## Nick-F

As mfk says I was not sure on positioning , as i was thinking about maybe mounting in the front ,this is the same length as original , and also longer tubing like this means MORE surface area being cooled . I also prefer the longer more shallow curve , it helps break up all the straight lines . But thanks for posting , I am always willing to listen to other peoples point of view .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I have a slide out radiator bracket, leaving extra length on tubing allows me to slide it out and access the fill port without having to remove anything.


What case? I of course assume the case came with the slide out bracket, but if not what product? You have any pics to share? Even product links would help....


----------



## rfarmer

Phanteks Evolv itx, it's my Sig rig


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> As mfk says I was not sure on positioning , as i was thinking about maybe mounting in the front ,this is the same length as original , and also longer tubing like this means MORE surface area being cooled . I also prefer the longer more shallow curve , it helps break up all the straight lines . But thanks for posting , I am always willing to listen to other peoples point of view .


well first...longer tubing will not affect your temperatures...unless you had such a long run the pump couldn't provide enough pressure then it could hurt temperatures....the temperature will equalize in the loop regardless of length of tubing...only rad space, pump speed/volume, fan speed/pressure, restrictions, and block choices/block mounting will affect temps by a noticeable margin...but that said when I first installed my h220x I left the tubing long to allow easier removal of the then air cooled graphics card...but yeah once I've decided the loop isn't changing for awhile all of mine will be tight but two years and counting and I keep changing things


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> As mfk says I was not sure on positioning , as i was thinking about maybe mounting in the front ,this is the same length as original , and also longer tubing like this means MORE surface area being cooled . I also prefer the longer more shallow curve , it helps break up all the straight lines . But thanks for posting , I am always willing to listen to other peoples point of view .


Sorry, I didn't mean to single you out - it is a very common thing I see here and is just baffling to me. And as @mfknjadagr8 pointed out, the longer tubing isn't helping the performance. The amount of liquid required to do what you are suggesting is far, far more than a normal loop would hold.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What case? I of course assume the case came with the slide out bracket, but if not what product? You have any pics to share? Even product links would help....


All of the Phanteks Evolv series use this. Check their website for pics.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sorry, I didn't mean to single you out - it is a very common thing I see here and is just baffling to me. And as @mfknjadagr8 pointed out, the longer tubing isn't helping the performance. The amount of liquid required to do what you are suggesting is far, far more than a normal loop would hold.
> All of the Phanteks Evolv series use this. Check their website for pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They are nice cases and not to expensive.
I am actually looking to upgrade my Phantom 820 case, but only as long as it is not expensive. I am primarily looking for more space on the back side of the MB and it looks like the ENTHOO LUXE does that. But it is bigger in all aspects than my Phantom 820 which may not be that big of deal here in the next couple of months. Right now my computers sits under my desk and it barely fits. I may be moving into a much larger room soon so size may not be a big deal. I know they are full tower cases but that is what I require for a few reasons. One is my eatx MB. Others are the rad space and for my other mods/upgrades.

I wonder if Swiftech will ever come out with an AIO that you can mount in the bottom of the case without have to mod it......


----------



## Nick-F

Ni prob , but I disagree. about temps . I agree it will not make a significant difference , but , if your tubing is in a strong airflow as mine is , then it must make a difference . But I do agree that shorter tubing can be a better look .


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> anyone know how to clean up the tube res in this AIO? mine is gunked up with mayhems x1 coolant, can the tube res be detatched or something? i wonder if i can just buy another tube res? or just the radiator assembly? not the whole package


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> They are nice cases and not to expensive.
> I am actually looking to upgrade my Phantom 820 case, but only as long as it is not expensive. I am primarily looking for more space on the back side of the MB and it looks like the ENTHOO LUXE does that*. But it is bigger in all aspects* than my Phantom 820 which may not be that big of deal here in the next couple of months. Right now my computers sits under my desk and it barely fits. I may be moving into a much larger room soon so size may not be a big deal. I know they are full tower cases but that is what I require for a few reasons. One is my eatx MB. Others are the rad space and for my other mods/upgrades.
> 
> I wonder if Swiftech will ever come out with an AIO that you can mount in the bottom of the case without have to mod it......


Enthoo Luxe is much smaller than Phantom 820.
Phantom 820 = 235 mm (W) x 650mm (H) x 612mm (D)
Enthoo Luxe = 235 mm(W) x 560 mm (H) x 550 mm (D)
My math is the same width, shorter by 90 mm with 52mm less depth.

The Enthoo Primo is 15mm wider, but height is the same and depth is 12mm less; 250mm x 650mm x 600mm (WxHxD)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Ni prob , but I disagree. about temps . I agree it will not make a significant difference , but , if your tubing is in a strong airflow as mine is , then it must make a difference . But I do agree that shorter tubing can be a better look .


Sorry, but you are wrong. The amount of heat radiated from tubing is almost none.
Like less difference then your hot breath makes in the temperature of your house.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enthoo Luxe is much smaller than Phantom 820.
> Phantom 820 = 235 mm (W) x 650mm (H) x 612mm (D)
> Enthoo Luxe = 235 mm(W) x 560 mm (H) x 550 mm (D)
> That is the same width x 90 mm less height x 52mm less depth.


That is weird, I must have been looking at another one of their cases then. I had even pulled out the measuring tape to compare sizes and I liked the fact that it had more depth behind the MB. Then again I was reading a review on it and they may have had the conversion to inches all wrong.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is weird, I must have been looking at another one of their cases then. I had even pulled out the measuring tape to compare sizes and I liked the fact that it had more depth behind the MB. Then again I was reading a review on it and they may have had the conversion to inches all wrong.


I think you were dreaming, because the Enthoo Primo is the biggest in Phanteks line.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you were dreaming, because the Enthoo Primo is the biggest in Phanteks line.


Not dreaming, but it is more like I said in the last part of my post you quoted.


----------



## Nick-F

A somewhat spurious analogy, but at least slightly humorous.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> A somewhat spurious analogy, but at least slightly humorous.


LOL, less so than your claim.

I have used tubing to radiate heat / cold in some houses and garages. But we are talking 400-1000 feet of it in concrete floors (depends on floor size and heat/cool needed). Similar feet under 3-4 feet of dirt circulating water in a heat pump heat heating / cooling system. Definitely many times the length and surface area of tubing in a computer case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> A somewhat spurious analogy, but at least slightly humorous.


I'm really not quite sure how to put this gently.....you are simply completely wrong about this, as has been proven in numerous tests. While your theory holds true on a far, far, far (really, really far - so far that @doyll's breathe in a household analogy mat actually be more factual than your supposition) larger scale, the two extra ounces of liquid in your loopy tubes isn't making any difference.


----------



## Nick-F

It's not the extra fluid , it's the fact that tubes are in cool airflow that makes a difference , a very small one , but it DOES make a difference . You run a hairdryer on the tubing , you watch the difference .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> As mfk says I was not sure on positioning , as i was thinking about maybe mounting in the front ,this is the same length as original , and also longer tubing like this means MORE surface area being cooled . I also prefer the longer more shallow curve , it helps break up all the straight lines . But thanks for posting , I am always willing to listen to other peoples point of view .
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I didn't mean to single you out - it is a very common thing I see here and is just baffling to me. And as @mfknjadagr8 pointed out, the longer tubing isn't helping the performance. The amount of liquid required to do what you are suggesting is far, far more than a normal loop would hold.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What case? I of course assume the case came with the slide out bracket, but if not what product? You have any pics to share? Even product links would help....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All of the Phanteks Evolv series use this. Check their website for pics.
Click to expand...

that is pretty cool !
but unfortunately no the tubing ( or any rubber ) wont make a difference
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> It's not the extra fluid , it's the fact that tubes are in cool airflow that makes a difference , a very small one , but it DOES make a difference . You run a hairdryer on the tubing , you watch the difference .


now this is just silly, you are comparing gas engines to apples here

basic truths about heat transfer.

all material have a temperature certain resistance. basically in laymen terms the ( in this case ) water has to be x temp WARMER then then stuff ( in this case ) pvc before it will transfer heat ,your water loop shouldnt be that much warmer .... where as a hair dryer ..... yea, well past,

the farther over you are the more heat it will release / absorb pvc can be used for radiant heat, because well they compensate for the poor thermal performance with a lot of surface area AND the extreme difference in temps !

if your loop is getting hot enough to make a difference above .01deg. then you are doing it wrong,

now an all copper build may have a slightly better temps difference, but even then not likely more then .1deg ( assuming a normal sized loop )

there is simply not enough surface area to make such a difference in water moving at this speed .....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is pretty cool !
> but unfortunately no the tubing ( or any rubber ) wont make a difference
> now this is just silly, you are comparing gas engines to apples here
> 
> basic truths about heat transfer.
> 
> all material have a temperature certain resistance. basically in laymen terms the ( in this case ) water has to be x temp WARMER then then stuff ( in this case ) pvc before it will transfer heat ,your water loop shouldnt be that much warmer .... where as a hair dryer ..... yea, well past,
> 
> the farther over you are the more heat it will release / absorb pvc can be used for radiant heat, because well they compensate for the poor thermal performance with a lot of surface area AND the extreme difference in temps !
> 
> if your loop is getting hot enough to make a difference above .01deg. then you are doing it wrong,
> 
> now an all copper build may have a slightly better temps difference, but even then not likely more then .1deg ( assuming a normal sized loop )
> 
> there is simply not enough surface area to make such a difference in water moving at this speed .....


Wait....are we still allowed to use science and facts rather than blind supposition in the water cooling forums?









I'm hoping you didn't go through the trouble of typing up the actual explanation only to have it fall on deaf ears....just because some kid in another thread said that he lengthened his tubes and his CPU temps dropped 20 degrees....and for some reason, there were people that believed it.....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wait....are we still allowed to use science and facts rather than blind supposition in the water cooling forums?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping you didn't go through the trouble of typing up the actual explanation only to have it fall on deaf ears....just because some kid in another thread said that he lengthened his tubes and his CPU temps dropped 20 degrees....and for some reason, there were people that believed it.....


I put an alphacool sticker on my case and my temps dropped 5c on every component which allowed me to gain another 30 fps at 4k resolution on all new AAA games...it also allowed me to convert my 290 into a 980ti which lowered my tdp so I can now run 6.0ghz on my 8320 with a 300 watt power supply....

I call it the ricer boy mentality...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I put an alphacool sticker on my case and my temps dropped 5c on every component which allowed me to gain another 30 fps at 4k resolution on all new AAA games...it also allowed me to convert my 290 into a 980ti which lowered my tdp so I can now run 6.0ghz on my 8320 with a 300 watt power supply....
> 
> I call it the ricer boy mentality...


Pssshhhh.....that's nothing. I won't even tell you what happened when I put Noctua and HWLabs metal badges on my case. Eleventy billion fps in BF4, and my CPU temp dropped so far below freezing, the die shattered.

Ricer boy, CLC user....same thing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> that is pretty cool !
> but unfortunately no the tubing ( or any rubber ) wont make a difference
> now this is just silly, you are comparing gas engines to apples here
> 
> basic truths about heat transfer.
> 
> all material have a temperature certain resistance. basically in laymen terms the ( in this case ) water has to be x temp WARMER then then stuff ( in this case ) pvc before it will transfer heat ,your water loop shouldnt be that much warmer .... where as a hair dryer ..... yea, well past,
> 
> the farther over you are the more heat it will release / absorb pvc can be used for radiant heat, because well they compensate for the poor thermal performance with a lot of surface area AND the extreme difference in temps !
> 
> if your loop is getting hot enough to make a difference above .01deg. then you are doing it wrong,
> 
> 
> 
> now an all copper build may have a slightly better temps difference, but even then not likely more then .1deg ( assuming a normal sized loop )
> 
> there is simply not enough surface area to make such a difference in water moving at this speed .....


Isn't it more the much greater heat transfer ability of copper versus plastic combined with fact copper tubing is rather thin walled, especially compared to plastic or hose of same size? That rubber or plastic tubing are borderline insulators compared to copper tubing? While copper tubing is smaller OD, I would still think their respective surface areas are relatively similar.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Isn't it more the much greater heat transfer ability of copper versus plastic combined with fact copper tubing is rather thin walled, especially compared to plastic or hose of same size? That rubber or plastic tubing are borderline insulators compared to copper tubing? While copper tubing is smaller OD, I would still think their respective surface areas are relatively similar.


What?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is pretty cool !
> but unfortunately no the tubing ( or any rubber ) wont make a difference
> now this is just silly, you are comparing gas engines to apples here
> 
> basic truths about heat transfer.
> all material have a temperature certain resistance. basically in laymen terms the ( in this case ) water has to be x temp WARMER then then stuff ( in this case ) pvc before it will transfer heat ,your water loop shouldnt be that much warmer .... where as a hair dryer ..... yea, well past,
> 
> the farther over you are the more heat it will release / absorb pvc can be used for radiant heat, because well they compensate for the poor thermal performance with a lot of surface area AND the extreme difference in temps !
> 
> if your loop is getting hot enough to make a difference above .01deg. then you are doing it wrong,
> now an all copper build may have a slightly better temps difference, but even then not likely more then .1deg ( assuming a normal sized loop )
> there is simply not enough surface area to make such a difference in water moving at this speed .....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wait....are we still allowed to use science and facts rather than blind supposition in the water cooling forums?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping you didn't go through the trouble of typing up the actual explanation only to have it fall on deaf ears....just because some kid in another thread said that he lengthened his tubes and his CPU temps dropped 20 degrees....and for some reason, there were people that believed it.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I put an alphacool sticker on my case and my temps dropped 5c on every component which allowed me to gain another 30 fps at 4k resolution on all new AAA games...it also allowed me to convert my 290 into a 980ti which lowered my tdp so I can now run 6.0ghz on my 8320 with a 300 watt power supply....
> 
> I call it the ricer boy mentality...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Pssshhhh.....that's nothing. I won't even tell you what happened when I put Noctua and HWLabs metal badges on my case. Eleventy billion fps in BF4, and my CPU temp dropped so far below freezing, the die shattered.
> 
> Ricer boy, CLC user....same thing.


This is hilarious and well said @Mega Man! But I think what he is trying to say is along the lines of "if your tubing is long enough and you have some very cold air blowing on it then you will see cooler temps". I can understand his reasoning in this but he would need something like AC cold to have that effect.....

If his tubing is only a few inches longer than what it should be then I think the effect would be just the opposite, but a very minimal effect at that. I believe the ambient temp in the PC case is usually warmer than the coolant in the tubing. But that is only a partially educated assumption, I am no expert in this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> that is pretty cool !
> but unfortunately no the tubing ( or any rubber ) wont make a difference
> now this is just silly, you are comparing gas engines to apples here
> 
> basic truths about heat transfer.
> 
> all material have a temperature certain resistance. basically in laymen terms the ( in this case ) water has to be x temp WARMER then then stuff ( in this case ) pvc before it will transfer heat ,your water loop shouldnt be that much warmer .... where as a hair dryer ..... yea, well past,
> 
> the farther over you are the more heat it will release / absorb pvc can be used for radiant heat, because well they compensate for the poor thermal performance with a lot of surface area AND the extreme difference in temps !
> 
> if your loop is getting hot enough to make a difference above .01deg. then you are doing it wrong,
> 
> 
> 
> now an all copper build may have a slightly better temps difference, but even then not likely more then .1deg ( assuming a normal sized loop )
> 
> there is simply not enough surface area to make such a difference in water moving at this speed .....
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't it more the much greater heat transfer ability of copper versus plastic combined with fact copper tubing is rather thin walled, especially compared to plastic or hose of same size? That rubber or plastic tubing are borderline insulators compared to copper tubing? While copper tubing is smaller OD, I would still think their respective surface areas are relatively similar.
Click to expand...

not really basically the water moves far to fast ( even with thin walls ) to really lose any heat even a heat gun would be useless with fans on it . now if the tubing has alot of surface area maybe , but... yea it doesn't

not all copper is thin walled

now that said.

i have an idea for a CL case, i wanna make a 100% passive gaming build ( it will happen.... one day ) i wanna run CU all over inside and weld it to the body of the CL .... but i would be using 100+ feet of copper, not 10


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not really basically the water moves far to fast ( even with thin walls ) to really lose any heat even a heat gun would be useless with fans on it . now if the tubing has alot of surface area maybe , but... yea it doesn't
> 
> not all copper is thin walled
> 
> now that said.
> 
> i have an idea for a CL case, i wanna make a 100% passive gaming build ( it will happen.... one day ) i wanna run CU all over inside and weld it to the body of the CL .... but i would be using 100+ feet of copper, not 10


so you want a case to essentially be a large heatsink, time to bring back that weird copper foam idea


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not really basically the water moves far to fast ( even with thin walls ) to really lose any heat even a heat gun would be useless with fans on it . now if the tubing has alot of surface area maybe , but... yea it doesn't
> 
> not all copper is thin walled
> 
> now that said.
> 
> i have an idea for a CL case, i wanna make a 100% passive gaming build ( it will happen.... one day ) i wanna run CU all over inside and weld it to the body of the CL .... but i would be using 100+ feet of copper, not 10


Indeed there is thick wall copper pipe, but the copper tubing used for forming into place is thinner than plastic tubing used in similar applications, and standard rigid copper used in house plumbing is thinner. The heat transfer is a combination of surface area on both inside and outside. surface area (the more water contact on inside as well as air contact on outside). This is why radiator cores use flat tubes versus round tubes (at least the good ones) .. to give a higher % of flow in contact wit inside surface of tube, and also to streamline the airflow through the fins past the tubes. Obviously copper is commonly used as best radiator core and fin material, followed by aluminum. Also obvious is the absence of plastics in radiator core and fin construction. Obviously the reason is the differences in respective thermal properties. And I haven't even mentioned finish and how it effects heat transfer (like the difference between a polished surface and a dull un-polished finish.

And while you know these thing, it is also obvious tha many reading this thread have little or no idea of how heat transfer works.


----------



## Dry Bonez

heyy people, Can you guys help me by telling me what i need to begin my 980ti waterblock installation. If you guys look at my sig, my rig is on there but i will post my specs:

Case: CMStorm Stryker
i7 4790k w/ Swifftech H220X Prestige (top mounted)
Seasonic 760X Gold PSU
Gigabyte G1 Windforce 980ti

I am tired of cranking up my card and having it loud as a freaking jet taking off. So i am asking you guys what are the stuff i need to complete this. I am aware i need a waterblock, i want to say radiator but im not sure, i dont know what else, thats why im here asking. thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> heyy people, Can you guys help me by telling me what i need to begin my 980ti waterblock installation. If you guys look at my sig, my rig is on there but i will post my specs:
> 
> Case: CMStorm Stryker
> i7 4790k w/ Swifftech H220X Prestige (top mounted)
> Seasonic 760X Gold PSU
> Gigabyte G1 Windforce 980ti
> 
> I am tired of cranking up my card and having it loud as a freaking jet taking off. So i am asking you guys what are the stuff i need to complete this. I am aware i need a waterblock, i want to say radiator but im not sure, i dont know what else, thats why im here asking. thanks


Yes, another radiator, preferably a 240mm. You also need the block, 4 fittings, the tubing and coolant.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, another radiator, preferably a 240mm. You also need the block, 4 fittings, the tubing and coolant.


Thats not very descriptive for my liking, but can you be kind enough and link me the stuff i would need? I dont know what im looking for in terms of "fitting" and "tubing", im sure it cant be that difficult to install but i just would like to know what i would need. also, you say i need ANOTHER radiator. Where in the world would i install that in my case????


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Thats not very descriptive for my liking, but can you be kind enough and link me the stuff i would need? I dont know what im looking for in terms of "fitting" and "tubing", im sure it cant be that difficult to install but i just would like to know what i would need. also, you say i need ANOTHER radiator. Where in the world would i install that in my case????


You'll need a gpu block, something like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-gpu/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-wf3-acetal-nickel.html
Swiftech uses chrome 3/8 X 5/8 compression fittings, you will need 4: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8540-x-8541-lok-seal-compression-fitting-chrome.html
They also sell chrome angled adapters.
They use 3/8 X 5/8 clear tubing, you can get something like this, or change colors or brands completely: http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-3-8-x-5-8-10-16mm-tubing.html
There isn't anywhere in your case to mount a 240mm radiator but you could mount a 140mm at the rear: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-radiator-mcr140-quiet-power-series-140mm-radiator.html
You can use your existing rear fan or replace it: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-helix-140mm-9-blade-z-bearing-pwm-fan.html

That is the basics of what you will need, you can pick whatever brands you like.



This is how I had mine set up with a rear 120mm radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Thats not very descriptive for my liking, but can you be kind enough and link me the stuff i would need? I dont know what im looking for in terms of "fitting" and "tubing", im sure it cant be that difficult to install but i just would like to know what i would need. also, you say i need ANOTHER radiator. Where in the world would i install that in my case????


You really need to move your rig into a more liquid cooling friendly case. Just sayin'.....


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> Where in the world would i install that in my case????


At your case manufacturer product page there are liquid cooling positions and radiator models described. http://gaming.coolermaster.com/en/products/cases/stryker/


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You'll need a gpu block, something like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-gpu/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-wf3-acetal-nickel.html
> Swiftech uses chrome 3/8 X 5/8 compression fittings, you will need 4: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8540-x-8541-lok-seal-compression-fitting-chrome.html
> They also sell chrome angled adapters.
> They use 3/8 X 5/8 clear tubing, you can get something like this, or change colors or brands completely: http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-3-8-x-5-8-10-16mm-tubing.html
> There isn't anywhere in your case to mount a 240mm radiator but you could mount a 140mm at the rear: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-radiator-mcr140-quiet-power-series-140mm-radiator.html
> You can use your existing rear fan or replace it: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-helix-140mm-9-blade-z-bearing-pwm-fan.html
> 
> That is the basics of what you will need, you can pick whatever brands you like.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how I had mine set up with a rear 120mm radiator.


WOW, THANK for the info. i will be placing my order some time today. For the tubing, 1 set would be suffice,right? The installation part is what is going to kill me, i would have to remove one of the tubes from the H220x cooler and put it onto the gpu right?And would i need to bleed it? i tried seeing videos but people only show how to pre the waterblock onto card but no showing of the mounting and stuff.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You really need to move your rig into a more liquid cooling friendly case. Just sayin'.....


Like which ones? i might consider some my friend, thanks for the info.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> At your case manufacturer product page there are liquid cooling positions and radiator models described. http://gaming.coolermaster.com/en/products/cases/stryker/


ahhh man, thanks for the sweet info dude.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> WOW, THANK for the info. i will be placing my order some time today. For the tubing, 1 set would be suffice,right? The installation part is what is going to kill me, i would have to remove one of the tubes from the H220x cooler and put it onto the gpu right?And would i need to bleed it? i tried seeing videos but people only show how to pre the waterblock onto card but no showing of the mounting and stuff.
> Like which ones? i might consider some my friend, thanks for the info.
> ahhh man, thanks for the sweet info dude.


They sell the tubing by the foot so you are going to have to determine how much you will need, if you are adding another radiator and where it is located. Tubing is cheap so better too much.
I found the best thing to do with the H220-X is take it out of the case and drain it out of the fill hole. Use a clean container and you can reuse the coolant, just add distilled water to it.
Once you assemble the loop you will need to fill and leak test it, you need to look up how to use a jumper on your psu to run the pump while filling. It is not very difficult, just a bit time consuming.

If you are not using that lower drive bay you would be better off adding a 240mm radiator to the bottom, 980ti can produce a fair amount of heat. I didn't realize you could mount one there, nice link We of Us.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Like which ones? i might consider some my friend, thanks for the info.


Phanteks Pro M, Pro, Luxe
Fractal Define S or R5
NZXT H440

Those would be my best recommendations


----------



## TheEnergy

Does anyone know if Swiftech handles the returns on all its h320 x2 prestige etc... water coolers? I bought one from here:
http://www.gigaparts.com/

But my LEDs aren't working properly and I want to return it, should I contact the website or swiftech?


----------



## Nick-F

Not sure of retail law in U.S. , but in UK the retailer is responsible if the goods are not working as described .


----------



## ufokillerz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Does anyone know if Swiftech handles the returns on all its h320 x2 prestige etc... water coolers? I bought one from here:
> http://www.gigaparts.com/
> 
> But my LEDs aren't working properly and I want to return it, should I contact the website or swiftech?


retailer if it was recently purchased. swiftech for warranty work though.

if recent, retailer should pay for shipping etc. but if its warranty work, swiftech will probably have you pay shipping.


----------



## doyll

Having done warranty replacement many time in both USA and UK the company has always paid return postage with no problems once I pointed out that was what I wanted and/or that was the law.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Like which ones? i might consider some my friend, thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Pro M, Pro, Luxe
> Fractal Define S or R5
> NZXT H440
> 
> Those would be my best recommendations
Click to expand...

Caselabs onry


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Caselabs onry


Saying that is like saying "Bentley only".

While Caselabs are great cases they are extremely expensive .. just like Bentleys.
Phanteks, Fractal Design, etc. are almost as good and at prices us normal people can afford .. like BMW, Lexus and Mercedes ..Audi, etc. too..


----------



## Mega Man

Psst I am a normal people. I saved for what I have. You can too. I know poe college students who choose to eat Ramen to have a nice pc....

Also have you seen the bullet series?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Psst I am a normal people. I saved for what I have. You can too. I know poe college students who choose to eat Ramen to have a nice pc....
> 
> Also have you seen the bullet series?


I've never seen a Bentley with a
Ramen eater in it.








Mabye it becaue of tinted windows.









I've only see a couple of teasers about the Bullet series. Looks like it might be interesting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Psst I am a normal people. I saved for what I have. You can too. I know poe college students who choose to eat Ramen to have a nice pc....
> 
> Also have you seen the bullet series?


What if you simply don't like the looks or size of Caselabs cases? Looks are subjective, this does not make one an imbecile. Or simply think that spending $500 for a case for $500 worth of components is overkill?

While I agree that Caselabs may be the very best available, it is not an all or nothing.


----------



## thetechguy21

Rigid tubing and case upgrade in progress.


----------



## TheEnergy

Hey guys, it's my first time ever draining/refilling a 320 x2 prestige. I'm going to follow the tips in this video per swiftech: 



 I'm changing the dye so I need to drain/refill.

1) what coolant/fluid is used on the H320 x2 prestige so I can purchase the same one?

2) can I use the power supply jumpstart connector that came with my EVGA G2 850 Supernova even though I am using cableMod individual sleevedcables now? (same PSU though)
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR
https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-e-series-g2-p2-cable-kit-black-red/

3) When attaching the PWM splitter to the h320 x2 (btw, which is the pump cable on the h320 x2?) , pwm splitter should be attached to the motherboard correct?

4) The PWM splitter should be attached to CPU_Fan on mobo, but everything else should be disconnected correct (i.e. usb 2.0, audio header, front panel/case LED/hdd led/PW reset, case fans) from motherboard correct? and obviously the power supply should be attached to the wall at this point? (after the jumpstart connector has been attached)


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Hey guys, it's my first time ever draining/refilling a 320 x2 prestige. I'm going to follow the tips in this video per swiftech:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm changing the dye so I need to drain/refill.
> 
> 1) what coolant/fluid is used on the H320 x2 prestige so I can purchase the same one?
> 
> 2) can I use the power supply jumpstart connector that came with my EVGA G2 850 Supernova even though I am using cableMod individual sleevedcables now? (same PSU though)
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR
> https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-e-series-g2-p2-cable-kit-black-red/
> 
> 3) When attaching the PWM splitter to the h320 x2 (btw, which is the pump cable on the h320 x2?) , pwm splitter should be attached to the motherboard correct?
> 
> 4) The PWM splitter should be attached to CPU_Fan on mobo, but everything else should be disconnected correct (i.e. usb 2.0, audio header, front panel/case LED/hdd led/PW reset, case fans) from motherboard correct? and obviously the power supply should be attached to the wall at this point? (after the jumpstart connector has been attached)


Can't comment on the die but the jumper for the EVGA psu will work, I used it for mine. The fan splitter connections won't matter for filling, all you need plugged in is the sata power connector for the pump. With the jumper on that will power the pump.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Hey guys, it's my first time ever draining/refilling a 320 x2 prestige. I'm going to follow the tips in this video per swiftech:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm changing the dye so I need to drain/refill.
> 
> 1) what coolant/fluid is used on the H320 x2 prestige so I can purchase the same one?
> 
> 2) can I use the power supply jumpstart connector that came with my EVGA G2 850 Supernova even though I am using cableMod individual sleevedcables now? (same PSU though)
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR
> https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-e-series-g2-p2-cable-kit-black-red/
> 
> 3) When attaching the PWM splitter to the h320 x2 (btw, which is the pump cable on the h320 x2?) , pwm splitter should be attached to the motherboard correct?
> 
> 4) The PWM splitter should be attached to CPU_Fan on mobo, but everything else should be disconnected correct (i.e. usb 2.0, audio header, front panel/case LED/hdd led/PW reset, case fans) from motherboard correct? and obviously the power supply should be attached to the wall at this point? (after the jumpstart connector has been attached)


I honestly would not recommend using any dyes but that is just me.

1. Straight distilled water is simply the best option. Some prefer to add some biocide or premixed stuff. I occasionally use Mayhems XT-1 with distilled water.
2. Yes you can. I use the same with my EVGA PSU. You can only use that connector when the PSU is not connected to the MB, so it will not power up the MB.
3. If you are asking where you connect the PWM splitter to then that connects to where you would normally connect the CPU fan/cooler to.
4. Everything can be connected as normal, except for the MB power. Which you will be using the jumper connector on. You do not want to apply power to the MB without the CPU cooler being attached to the CPU, there could be some bad results if you do that.....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Psst I am a normal people. I saved for what I have. You can too. I know poe college students who choose to eat Ramen to have a nice pc....
> 
> Also have you seen the bullet series?
> 
> 
> 
> What if you simply don't like the looks or size of Caselabs cases? Looks are subjective, this does not make one an imbecile. Or simply think that spending $500 for a case for $500 worth of components is overkill?
> 
> While I agree that Caselabs may be the very best available, it is not an all or nothing.
Click to expand...

no one said it was,

i said "ONRY" which if you cant tell is a joke.... well.... sorry ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one said it was,
> 
> i said "ONRY" which if you cant tell is a joke.... well.... sorry ?


should've been better if cl was based in an Asian country...


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I honestly would not recommend using any dyes but that is just me.
> 
> 1. Straight distilled water is simply the best option. Some prefer to add some biocide or premixed stuff. I occasionally use Mayhems XT-1 with distilled water.
> 2. Yes you can. I use the same with my EVGA PSU. You can only use that connector when the PSU is not connected to the MB, so it will not power up the MB.
> 3. If you are asking where you connect the PWM splitter to then that connects to where you would normally connect the CPU fan/cooler to.
> 4. Everything can be connected as normal, except for the MB power. Which you will be using the jumper connector on. You do not want to apply power to the MB without the CPU cooler being attached to the CPU, there could be some bad results if you do that.....


Why no dyes though?







the tubes are clear and clear tubes look ugly to me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Why no dyes though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the tubes are clear and clear tubes look ugly to me


Because adding dye is adding something with no functional purpose that can collect on waterblcok veins and block water flow and cooling. While this does not happen every time, it does happen fairly often. Why take the chance?

Myself, I believe in KISS The simpler it is the better. Distilled water sometimes needs a protector / inhibitor. It depends on what metals are in the system and how pure the water is. Pure water can leach particles from the system it is in. While this is not pure 'corrosion' it can weaken the sysem, like radiator core or the thin vanes in water blocks. Same applies to bio-inhibitors to keep anything from 'growing' in the coolant. In my opinion both are good things to add But be very careful of what product you use. I think there is more 'snake water' advertising than honest product information out there.









I haven't used water cooling i several years, so not up to date on what are good products, but others here will be along to help.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Why no dyes though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the tubes are clear and clear tubes look ugly to me


Dyes fall out of suspension, they stain your parts, some void the warranty on your pump. If you don't like the color of the tubing.....change the tubing to a color you like - that is kind of simple.

I absolutely don't agree with using nothing but straight distilled water, you need some type of biocode and preferably an anti-corrosive/scaling as well. There is no way to safely use silver in this loop without adding a component. Spring the $10 for a bottle of clear XSPC ECx or Mayhems X-1 concentrate to add to the distilled. If you *must* dye the coolant, no pastels, no Aurora, no nano-fluids - Swiftech's own techs have stated this is an absolute no go for this pump.

You have some very experienced liquid coolers to help you out in this thread, as well as the Swiftech rep at times - take advantage of it. You also have people who have been liquid cooling a very short time and are here looking for answers....but are still inclined to give answers even though they are still looking for those very same answers, themselves. Unfortunately, you will have to weed that out.

On another note, your points 3 & 4 - the PWM should not be connected during filling and bleeding, the pump will run at near full speed with no PWM signal, which is what you want. And if you are filling, bleeding and leak testing in the case *NONE* of your components should be powered. The *only* PSU connection should be to the pump, while you use the MB connector to toggle the PSU on and off with the jumper.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Dyes fall out of suspension, they stain your parts, some void the warranty on your pump. If you don't like the color of the tubing.....change the tubing to a color you like - that is kind of simple.
> 
> I absolutely don't agree with using nothing but straight distilled water, you need some type of biocode and preferably an anti-corrosive/scaling as well. There is no way to safely use silver in this loop without adding a component. Spring the $10 for a bottle of clear XSPC ECx or Mayhems X-1 concentrate to add to the distilled. If you *must* dye the coolant, no pastels, no Aurora, no nano-fluids - Swiftech's own techs have stated this is an absolute no go for this pump.
> 
> You have some very experienced liquid coolers to help you out in this thread, as well as the Swiftech rep at times - take advantage of it. You also have people who have been liquid cooling a very short time and are here looking for answers....but are still inclined to give answers even though they are still looking for those very same answers, themselves. Unfortunately, you will have to weed that out.
> 
> On another note, your points 3 & 4 - the PWM should not be connected during filling and bleeding, the pump will run at near full speed with no PWM signal, which is what you want. And if you are filling, bleeding and leak testing in the case *NONE* of your components should be powered. The *only* PSU connection should be to the pump, while you use the MB connector to toggle the PSU on and off with the jumper.


thank you. so does this mean I should have a SATA cable from my PSU connected to the SATA connector coming from the pump (to power the pump)? I think the 3pin coming off the cpu block is for the cpu LED, and I think the 4pin and 3pin coming off the pump/res are for LEDs and (i'm not sure what the 4pin is for) and the sata is obviously to power the pump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> thank you. so does this mean I should have a SATA cable from my PSU connected to the SATA connector coming from the pump (to power the pump)? I think the 3pin coming off the cpu block is for the cpu LED, and I think the 4pin and 3pin coming off the pump/res are for LEDs and (i'm not sure what the 4pin is for) and the sata is obviously to power the pump.


4 pin coming of the pump shouldn't be connected while filling...just the sata to power the pump and the jumper is all you need connected to the psu...this will allow your psu to power the pump and nothing else in case there is a leak nothing will be savagely murdered by electricity...the four pin from the pump is the pwm wire that controls the speed of the pump during use... I use the power switch on the psu to "cycle the pump" because you don't want the pump to run out of liquid EVER..if the res runs lpw before you can get more fluid in cycle the pump off and get more in before you cycle it back on


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Why no dyes though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the tubes are clear and clear tubes look ugly to me


It looks like some of the others have replied to this. Note that the dyes included with your 320 are covered under the Swiftech warranty but there is no definite way to tell if it will or will not build up residue in your system (or how long it will take). It really depends on how often you want to flush and clean your system out. If you are one (like many) that want to just leave it be for as long as possible then your best bet is to use straight distilled with some biocide of one type or another, and if you get biocide then research before you buy. As noted there are a lot of "snake oils" out there....lol.

Also as far as @ciarlatano said also leave the PWM connection from the pump disconnected, I had forgotten about that.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 4 pin coming of the pump shouldn't be connected while filling...just the sata to power the pump and the jumper is all you need connected to the psu...this will allow your psu to power the pump and nothing else in case there is a leak nothing will be savagely murdered by electricity...the four pin from the pump is the pwm wire that controls the speed of the pump during use... I use the power switch on the psu to "cycle the pump" because you don't want the pump to run out of liquid EVER..if the res runs lpw before you can get more fluid in cycle the pump off and get more in before you cycle it back on


THank you so much. Do you know what coolant/fluid is used stock on the h320 x2 prestige so I can replicate it?

I watched the swiftech video, but it was older, and Bryan was using a h220 iirc and he was also adding a watercooled GPU to the loop, so there was added info unecessary to me.

This is actually my first time like doing this, draining the cooler and refilling it. Usually i just attach AIO's and just power them on; is there any way I could mess this up? i don't want any bubbles in there or to mess up what is working perfectly now.

Also, got your warning on pastels dyes and such, would you recommend any red dye better than Mayhems UV dye (what comes with the h320 x2)? thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> THank you so much. Do you know what coolant/fluid is used stock on the h320 x2 prestige so I can replicate it?
> 
> I watched the swiftech video, but it was older, and Bryan was using a h220 iirc and he was also adding a watercooled GPU to the loop, so there was added info unecessary to me.
> 
> This is actually my first time like doing this, draining the cooler and refilling it. Usually i just attach AIO's and just power them on; is there any way I could mess this up? i don't want any bubbles in there or to mess up what is working perfectly now.
> 
> Also, got your warning on pastels dyes and such, would you recommend any red dye better than Mayhems UV dye (what comes with the h320 x2)? thanks!


The coolant used in the X2 series is not available for retail sale yet (and may never be). Make your life simple and buy the XSPC or Mayhems X-1 concentrate. It contains everything your loop needs in terms of biocide/anti-scaling/anti-corrossive and is pre-measured, only costs ~$10 and you simply add it to a liter of distilled water. What more could you possibly ask for?

Is there any way you can mess this up? Of course there is. But, as long as you research it and get the total plan together it would be pretty hard to mess it up. It is much easier to fill outside of the case. Stand it fill port up, fill and then move the entire assembly, tubes and block around keeping the res at the highest point. Repeat until you can't get any more coolant in. Keep the unit drain up and power it up for a couple of seconds and the coolant level will drop. Add coolant and repeat until full. Run the unit for 12 hours, checking and adding coolant as needed. Install in the case.

A better red dye than Mayhems? Yes, red Primochill tubing. If you MUST use dye......Mayhems X-1 is the best for the Swiftechs.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> thank you. so does this mean I should have a SATA cable from my PSU connected to the SATA connector coming from the pump (to power the pump)? I think the 3pin coming off the cpu block is for the cpu LED, and I think the 4pin and 3pin coming off the pump/res are for LEDs and (i'm not sure what the 4pin is for) and the sata is obviously to power the pump.


All you need is the sata connector. The 4pin coming off the pump/res is to route the RPM signal back to the mobo for monitoring. An old spare (or new cheapo) psu can make easier to refill outside of the case. I did mine next to a sink and used a powerstrip to toggle the psu on/off while filling.

I think the concentrates are well worth it, shipping costs for premixed (mostly water) liquids is prohibitively high. Performance pcs is a good retailer for this stuff in the us.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-concentrate-100ml.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-100ml.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-ecx-ultra-concentrate-coolant-clear.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=90&q=coolant+concentrate


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The coolant used in the X2 series is not available for retail sale yet (and may never be). Make your life simple and buy the XSPC or Mayhems X-1 concentrate. It contains everything your loop needs in terms of biocide/anti-scaling/anti-corrossive and is pre-measured, only costs ~$10 and you simply add it to a liter of distilled water. What more could you possibly ask for?
> 
> Is there any way you can mess this up? Of course there is. But, as long as you research it and get the total plan together it would be pretty hard to mess it up. It is much easier to fill outside of the case. Stand it fill port up, fill and then move the entire assembly, tubes and block around keeping the res at the highest point. Repeat until you can't get any more coolant in. Keep the unit drain up and power it up for a couple of seconds and the coolant level will drop. Add coolant and repeat until full. Run the unit for 12 hours, checking and adding coolant as needed. Install in the case.
> 
> A better red dye than Mayhems? Yes, red Primochill tubing. If you MUST use dye......Mayhems X-1 is the best for the Swiftechs.


You guys are the best I'm looking at the Mayhem coolant now to add to distilled water:
http://www.amazon.com/Mayhems-Coolant-Concentrate-Blood-250ml/dp/B00AXVZ876

Is there a reason the coolant is a color too? I thought the dye was the main colored component that is added to the loop. Does this mean if you use colored coolant you don't need to add dye?

thank ya


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> You guys are the best I'm looking at the Mayhem coolant now to add to distilled water:
> http://www.amazon.com/Mayhems-Coolant-Concentrate-Blood-250ml/dp/B00AXVZ876
> 
> Is there a reason the coolant is a color too? I thought the dye was the main colored component that is added to the loop. Does this mean if you use colored coolant you don't need to add dye?
> 
> thank ya


I think the reason is some people want colored water







Looks like you just add the colored coolant concentrate and you're set.

This vid is plain red and not the blood red that you're looking at.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> You guys are the best I'm looking at the Mayhem coolant now to add to distilled water:
> http://www.amazon.com/Mayhems-Coolant-Concentrate-Blood-250ml/dp/B00AXVZ876
> 
> Is there a reason the coolant is a color too? I thought the dye was the main colored component that is added to the loop. Does this mean if you use colored coolant you don't need to add dye?
> 
> thank ya


I forgot to mention in my last post, as much as it should be common sense, keep the plug in when you are not in the act of filling.....

If you buy colored concentrate, the dye is already in it. You will not need to add more dye.

Amazon isn't always the best place to shop for WaCo parts. You would likely be better served by Performance PCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-blood-red.html , http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html).

If you go with Mayhems you are going to spend a bit more, simply because their concentrates are for 2L of coolant, whereas XSPC is for 1L. Also, so you are not disappointed, Mayhems "Blood Red" typically comes out more like "Blood Pink".


----------



## Scrimstar

6850x will fit the same as 5930k? or do you need a new bracket


----------



## bluedevil

Took apart my H220-x last night...thinking of putting in my EK Supremacy CPU block, 2 VT CryoVenom R9 290s (EK FC Blocks) and a MCR320XP in my "Classified Demon" build. Thoughts?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Took apart my H220-x last night...thinking of putting in my EK Supremacy CPU block, 2 VT CryoVenom R9 290s (EK FC Blocks) and a MCR320XP in my "Classified Demon" build. Thoughts?


It will work. I have three thoughts:

1. If you have a Supremacy MX, not a Supremacy EVO, the Apogee XL is a little better.
2. The MCP30 will handle it, but will be pretty near it's limits.
3. Adding a reservoir would make your life a lot easier when you are filling/bleeding


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It will work. I have three thoughts:
> 
> 1. If you have a Supremacy MX, not a Supremacy EVO, the Apogee XL is a little better.
> 2. The MCP30 will handle it, but will be pretty near it's limits.
> 3. Adding a reservoir would make your life a lot easier when you are filling/bleeding


1. Evo
2. My concerns as well.
3. Yep I thought about doing a tube res/pump combo instead.

More or less batting some ideas around.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> 1. Evo
> 2. My concerns as well.
> 3. Yep I thought about doing a tube res/pump combo instead.
> 
> More or less batting some ideas around.


if you do the tube res combo it will be more than enough flow and you have that redundancy if one of the pumps fails....


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Took apart my H220-x last night...thinking of putting in my EK Supremacy CPU block, 2 VT CryoVenom R9 290s (EK FC Blocks) and a MCR320XP in my "Classified Demon" build. Thoughts?


I like the clamps that come with the h220x, but i don't see those clamps available independently on swiftechs website. Anybody know where you can get more clamps like that?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I like the clamps that come with the h220x, but i don't see those clamps available independently on swiftechs website. Anybody know where you can get more clamps like that?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/hose-clamps Bunch of them there.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I forgot to mention in my last post, as much as it should be common sense, keep the plug in when you are not in the act of filling.....
> 
> If you buy colored concentrate, the dye is already in it. You will not need to add more dye.
> 
> Amazon isn't always the best place to shop for WaCo parts. You would likely be better served by Performance PCs (http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-blood-red.html , http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/mayhems-x1-uv-blood-red-concentrate-250ml.html).
> 
> If you go with Mayhems you are going to spend a bit more, simply because their concentrates are for 2L of coolant, whereas XSPC is for 1L. Also, so you are not disappointed, Mayhems "Blood Red" typically comes out more like "Blood Pink".


So all you are adding to the pump/resoirvoir (i.e. h320 x2) is just the coolant + distilled water? Can this be any distilled water from the grocery store or do I need to order it from frozencpu/performance pcs?

Also, I noticed the distilled water/deionized water comes in 32oz=1liter. With coolant added, is this the perfect amount for the set, or will I need less or more? (I don't want to run out midway of filling the pump and find out I don't have enough fluid)

Sorry I know these are severe n00b questions. Also, I currently have my H320 x2 default atm, which just a bit of blue dye added. There is no more room for liquid. I want to make it purple (I need to add red?), could I spill out a little of the liquid so I can have more room to add purple dye in the mean time? Do CPU coolers become less efficient when you start removing water from the loop to get more dye in or whatever?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> So all you are adding to the pump/resoirvoir (i.e. h320 x2) is just the coolant + distilled water? Can this be any distilled water from the grocery store or do I need to order it from frozencpu/performance pcs?
> 
> Also, I noticed the distilled water/deionized water comes in 32oz=1liter. With coolant added, is this the perfect amount for the set, or will I need less or more? (I don't want to run out midway of filling the pump and find out I don't have enough fluid)
> 
> Sorry I know these are severe n00b questions. Also, I currently have my H320 x2 default atm, which just a bit of blue dye added. There is no more room for liquid. I want to make it purple (I need to add red?), could I spill out a little of the liquid so I can have more room to add purple dye in the mean time? Do CPU coolers become less efficient when you start removing water from the loop to get more dye in or whatever?


Distilled water from the grocery or drug store is good.

The h240x takes about 250ml (1 cup) to fill. I mixed up 2 cups worth of water with coolant and have one cup left over. I've got that unused cup of treated water sitting in a window getting bright sunlight, I'm waiting to see how long till algae arrives in there. I still have enough concentrate to mix up 6 more cups.

I think the tube-res on the newer x2 version has higher capacity than the boxy res from the first gen? I'm certain 1 liter would be more than enough and probably 500ml is more than enough (but 250ml would not).

Of course you can drain some liquid in order to add some dye. I don't know about dyes specifically, but i think the anti-corrosive additives hurt cooling performance a little (but i think its very little).


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hose-clamps Bunch of them there.


Thnx, they've got a real good selection.

I'd be nice if swiftech sold the constituent components separately for repairs and expansion. So far I know the clamps and the clear coolant concentrate that comes in the unit are not available separately.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I like the clamps that come with the h220x, but i don't see those clamps available independently on swiftechs website. Anybody know where you can get more clamps like that?


Have you asked Swiftech customer service about them?


----------



## thetechguy21

Mostly Finished


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetechguy21*
> 
> Mostly Finished
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean, but is that mustard yellow?....lol


----------



## thetechguy21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nice and clean, but is that mustard yellow?....lol


Yes, Mustard yellow from Paracord Planet that I purchased from Amazon.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ok, that is an interesting choice.... But what prompted that color?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetechguy21*
> 
> Yes, Mustard yellow from Paracord Planet that I purchased from Amazon.


Yellow and black looks awesome,reminds me of jayz2cents "skunworkz" PC!


----------



## thetechguy21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Yellow and black looks awesome,reminds me of jayz2cents "skunworkz" PC!


It is a very good combination of colors, with good contrast.


----------



## xNinja83x

So how do you actually bleed the air out of this thing?Just got this H140-x today and it sounds like a fish tank.Tried the suggested method but can't get the giant air bubble to go out the filler hole. it goes to the top of the window but not all the way up and out the hole....starting to get annoyed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNinja83x*
> 
> So how do you actually bleed the air out of this thing?Just got this H140-x today and it sounds like a fish tank.Tried the suggested method but can't get the giant air bubble to go out the filler hole. it goes to the top of the window but not all the way up and out the hole....starting to get annoyed.


Reminder I have a H240-X and I am not sure how this will work with the new line. I have mine sitting just out side my case with the fill port pointing towards the ceiling, the SATA power connected, and the jumper for the PSU installed. I also have a small funnel attached. I cycle my unit on for a second then off, after a few seconds bubbles pop up while it is off. I do this a few times and when the water is low enough in the hole I may add some. But you should leave at least some leeway for the water to expand.... This works for me every time!


----------



## xNinja83x

thanks for the reply, I was finally able to let the bubbles out and add water but everytime I start it there is a new big bubble. It's outside my case and elevated. seems like I have made zero progress.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNinja83x*
> 
> thanks for the reply, I was finally able to let the bubbles out and add water but everytime I start it there is a new big bubble. It's outside my case and elevated. seems like I have made zero progress.


It is ok to have some bubbles cause remember it expands.


----------



## xNinja83x

i have from what I can tell only a couple small bubbles left but that wretched noise is still there....not sure if I should just put my air cooler back on or not...can't stand that fish tank bubbling sound.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNinja83x*
> 
> i have from what I can tell only a couple small bubbles left but that wretched noise is still there....not sure if I should just put my air cooler back on or not...can't stand that fish tank bubbling sound.


It takes a couple of days to fully bleed. You set yourself back a little by opening the loop.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNinja83x*
> 
> i have from what I can tell only a couple small bubbles left but that wretched noise is still there....not sure if I should just put my air cooler back on or not...can't stand that fish tank bubbling sound.


that is from micro bubbles in the pumps impeller...best way I've found is to run it with it window facing about 45 degrees upward and cycle the pump...when it cycles off give the case or the unit a shake to try and dislodge those bubbles...one once they come out you have to work them to the fillport and try and top it off..if you take a flashlight while the unit I'd running you can see the bubbles you need to get out circling the impeller...best of luck if you get frustrated leave it be for a bit and come back later...some have said a drop of dawn helps but nothing with bleach...


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you do the tube res combo it will be more than enough flow and you have that redundancy if one of the pumps fails....


what about just replacing it with MCP50X?


----------



## xNinja83x

That did the trick. Very frustrating but now it doesn't make that nasty noise haha.


----------



## Caos

hello, I gave me this coolant, it is good to place the h220x2 prestige?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-coolant-bottle-700ml-fluorescent-blue.html


----------



## TheEnergy

Hi guys, so I actually purchased a 980Ti Classified and installed that today. I also attempted to change the dye color of my H320 x2 Prestige:








I have the LEDs on the H320 X2 to *White* at the moment. I didn't like how Purple looked, or Red actually. _Do you guys have any opinions/advice_ as to what color I should go with on my cooler and/or other components so the build kind of matches better?

I feel like my motherboard being blue atm (X99 Extreme4 Asrock) is *out of place*. And the Red accent on the 980Ti Classified makes me think red could work?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> what about just replacing it with MCP50X?


it will increase the flow but without adding a second pump to the loop there is no redundancy...but you could use the mcp35x res fit either pump if you chose to buy one


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, I gave me this coolant, it is good to place the h220x2 prestige?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-coolant-bottle-700ml-fluorescent-blue.html


Why not just go with clear and get colored tubing?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNinja83x*
> 
> That did the trick. Very frustrating but now it doesn't make that nasty noise haha.


Yup, it's definitely worth the effort to get the air out


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Why not just go with clear and get colored tubing?


hello, if that would be a good option too, this liquid is present .. then do not use it?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, if that would be a good option too, this liquid is present .. then do not use it?


Yes you would not use the coolant.

One question, have you changed out or replaced tubing before?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yes you would not use the coolant.
> 
> One question, have you changed out or replaced tubing before?


if the tube and change my previous h220x, for a transparent Primochill, with the prestige is different?

which refrigerant then I use?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> hello, if that would be a good option too, this liquid is present .. then do not use it?


If you already have the blue Koolance Liquid, you certainly can use that in the h220x2.

Have you already purchased it and received the Koolance liquid?

Using it in the clear tubing that comes with the unit would be a lot easier, faster, and less expensive than getting new colored tubing. If you don't like the results, you can choose to get new colored tubing and clear coolant later.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> If you already have the blue Koolance Liquid, you certainly can use that in the h220x2.
> 
> Have you already purchased it and received the Koolance liquid?
> 
> Using it in the clear tubing that comes with the unit would be a lot easier, faster, and less expensive than getting new colored tubing. If you don't like the results, you can choose to get new colored tubing and clear coolant later.


Hi. if I have the liquid Koolance me, then I can put in the h220x2?

one more question, this liquid would help me for future change?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-uv-blue.html


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi. if I have the liquid Koolance me, then I can put in the h220x2?


Yes, you certainly can.
Quote:


> one more question, this liquid would help me for future change?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-uv-blue.html


I think any of the premixed liquids from a reputable company are fine to use. It's mostly a matter of what color you like.

Except don't use the opaque "pastel" colors (the colors that you can't see thru), they contain very small particles that can damage the pump in the h220x2.

In the future, you can save some money by buying a concentrate and mixing it yourself with distilled water. Shipping is much less expensive for a small 100ml bottle of concentrate compared to a 1l bottle of premixed liquid. Mayhem's concentrates are a good choice.


----------



## TheEnergy

I'm still trying to figure out what Swiftech lighting/tubing color looks best in my build. I will buy a *new mobo* because the blue doesn't fit & need to *change the tubing color* (_its purple atm_) but:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*(white LED)*



*(red LED)*



*(purple LED)*





I was just thinking about going with a *white Fractal Define R5* case (The Phanteks is too big/heavy IMO) and swapping out the mobo for a *MSI SLI PLUS x99* (color matching). _yellow, blue, and all the other LEDs colors looked ugly/didn't match imo_


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> if the tube and change my previous h220x, for a transparent Primochill, with the prestige is different?
> 
> which refrigerant then I use?


No it is not different, just as long as you get the same size tubing. It is not refrigerant, but you can use distilled water with the additive of your choice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi. if I have the liquid Koolance me, then I can put in the h220x2?
> 
> one more question, this liquid would help me for future change?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-uv-blue.html


That will work and I believe Mayhems is one of the products that Swiftech recommends. But that does not have a biocide in it, unless I am reading the description wrong.
All you really need is distilled water and maybe a biocide. Any other additives you add to it will require you to do maintenance on your loop more often.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out what Swiftech lighting/tubing color looks best in my build. I will buy a *new mobo* because the blue doesn't fit & need to *change the tubing color* (_its purple atm_) but:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *(white LED)*
> 
> 
> 
> *(red LED)*
> 
> 
> 
> *(purple LED)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just thinking about going with a *white Fractal Define R5* case (The Phanteks is too big/heavy IMO) and swapping out the mobo for a *MSI SLI PLUS x99* (color matching). _yellow, blue, and all the other LEDs colors looked ugly/didn't match imo_


Blue would look better, partially because you have a blue heatsink for the MB....

Is the door windowed? If so you should post pics of the colors with the door on. You can also use the "spoiler" option so the post is not so large.....


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> No it is not different, just as long as you get the same size tubing. It is not refrigerant, but you can use distilled water with the additive of your choice.
> That will work and I believe Mayhems is one of the products that Swiftech recommends. But that does not have a biocide in it, unless I am reading the description wrong.
> All you really need is distilled water and maybe a biocide. Any other additives you add to it will require you to do maintenance on your loop more often.


Most of the premixed liquids and concentrates do have biocidal properties. Mayhem's X1 does according this...
https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-x1-coolant/

I don't know why you say that additives require more maintenance? They prohibit corrosion and biological growth. I thought preventing those things extended how long it can go w/o maintenance.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Most of the premixed liquids and concentrates do have biocidal properties. Mayhem's X1 does according this...
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-x1-coolant/
> 
> I don't know why you say that additives require more maintenance? They prohibit corrosion and biological growth. I thought preventing those things extended how long it can go w/o maintenance.


Apologies, I was thinking more along the lines of dyes. I should have mentioned that....lol.

What I read on the Mayhems X1 did not mention any biocide in and there was a list of things people usually purchase with it and a biocide was included.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Blue would look better, partially because you have a blue heatsink for the MB....
> 
> Is the door windowed? If so you should post pics of the colors with the door on. You can also use the "spoiler" option so the post is not so large.....


Added the spoiler edit. Well, I'm going to sell/buy a new motherboard because the blue doesn't go with any other parts in the case. The _dominators are silver/white, Swiftech can be any color basically, and the GTX980Ti is red/white LED_ so I'm leaning on *Red* tubing/LED on swiftech in a white *Fractal R5* define unless someone can advise me on a better ATX midtower (maybe mATX) or motherboard. Leaning on *MSI SLI x99 atm.*


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Added the spoiler edit. Well, I'm going to sell/buy a new motherboard because the blue doesn't go with any other parts in the case. The _dominators are silver/white, Swiftech can be any color basically, and the GTX980Ti is red/white LED_ so I'm leaning on *Red* tubing/LED on swiftech in a white *Fractal R5* define unless someone can advise me on a better ATX midtower (maybe mATX) or motherboard. Leaning on *MSI SLI x99 atm.*


That'll look good all together. I am trying to stay away from red myself because it seems everyone wants (or has) red.

As far as the mid tower goes... good luck getting advice as it all really comes down to preference.
I use a full tower myself as it gives much more room to work on things and add stuff as time goes on.
I have a Phantom 820 and it has RGB lighting in the case. The tubing for my H240-X is brilliant UV blue with red UV anti kink coils (don't need the anti kink but the effect is awesome). I wired some UV LEDs on the inside of the side panel and it really lights up the UV parts. I also installed a RF switch for the UV lights. I realized that the UV set up I have so far really looks nice no matter what color I change the case LEDs to. I am still planning on adding some more UV LEDs and adding some effects with UV paint. When I get finished I will post pics. Consequently the UV lights make all the other colors inside the case seem brighter like the VGA cables for my GPU. I will also be adding water cooling to my GPU and that will also have the same tubing and anti kink coils....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wired some UV LEDs on the inside of the side panel and it really lights up the UV parts.


Which UV LEDs are you using? I tried a couple and they had no UV effect at all. I know the Phobya were said to work well, but they weren't available anywhere when I was looking.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I purchased these off of Amazon. The ones that are "specificall" designed for use in a PC are way over priced. That set I posted you can easily cut at certain points. The weather coating helps to diffuse the light enough so it spreads evenly.

Below is a pic of the inside of the door after I put the lights in but before I put the door back. FYI, I also plan on taking out the grills and cutting some more of the door out and adding either glass or clear acrylic panels to show off the inside of my case more.

Never mind on the pic. It will not let me upload any pics. They fail at the last second for some reason. I tried both png and jpeg formats at less that 1k in size.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I purchased these off of Amazon. The ones that are "specificall" designed for use in a PC are way over priced. That set I posted you can easily cut at certain points. The weather coating helps to diffuse the light enough so it spreads evenly.
> 
> Below is a pic of the inside of the door after I put the lights in but before I put the door back. FYI, I also plan on taking out the grills and cutting some more of the door out and adding either glass or clear acrylic panels to show off the inside of my case more.
> 
> Never mind on the pic. It will not let me upload any pics. They fail at the last second for some reason. I tried both png and jpeg formats at less that 1k in size.


Thanks. I actually needed 3mm and 5mm individual LEDs. I have pretty much gotten away from the UV, build is now all black and white. Might play with it again one day, though. I will give those a try if I do.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Thanks. I actually needed 3mm and 5mm individual LEDs. I have pretty much gotten away from the UV, build is now all black and white. Might play with it again one day, though. I will give those a try if I do.


FYI you can also get RGB and single color LED's on there for about the same price if not a little cheaper. One strip of 300 lights (or even 150 is way more than enough to light up any PC.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Yes, you certainly can.
> I think any of the premixed liquids from a reputable company are fine to use. It's mostly a matter of what color you like.
> 
> Except don't use the opaque "pastel" colors (the colors that you can't see thru), they contain very small particles that can damage the pump in the h220x2.
> 
> In the future, you can save some money by buying a concentrate and mixing it yourself with distilled water. Shipping is much less expensive for a small 100ml bottle of concentrate compared to a 1l bottle of premixed liquid. Mayhem's concentrates are a good choice.


Thanks for the recommendation,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blue-concentrate-100ml.html

with this concentrate more distilled water and would be fine? I do not need anymore? biocide?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-uv-blue-concentrate-100ml.html
> 
> with this concentrate more distilled water and would be fine? I do not need anymore? biocide?


You'd be all set with just that for a few refills. When you get a premixed coolant or concentrate, you generally should avoid adding other additives because you might be adding something that will chemically react in a bad way with something in the premix.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> 6850x will fit the same as 5930k? or do you need a new bracket


Also will a 320x2 fit a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, or should I get the Enthoo Luxe


----------



## Kutalion

It will fit easy








Mounting should be same, so no worries.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Also will a 320x2 fit a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, or should I get the Enthoo Luxe


https://pcpartpicker.com/b/QHCypg This build log has a H320-X in a Evolv ATX.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Also will a 320x2 fit a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, or should I get the Enthoo Luxe


This does not sound good lol. You can mount on top and front right? Which is better.

I am also getting 6800k soon, maybe 5930k

CPU cooler: Swiftech h320 X2 prestige Review 0/5

Edit 04/18/16: A mere ten days after reconsidering how harshly I originally reviewed this unit, one of the fittings sprang a leak. The fitting in question was where the liquid returned to the pump, behind the rez. Lucky for me the only thing under it was my hard drive. For a product of this price this is simply unacceptable.

Edit 4/8/16: Adding a point to my original review. While I still want to point out how much of a pain this was to get in the case; the ability of this to keep my CPU cool is the best I've ever seen, even during prolonged gaming sessions I've yet to see any core break 40C

So where to begin with this one. It looks good and does its job admirably and the ability to add things to the loop is amazing. But the setup and partial pre-assembly is both nonsensical and a royal pain on the consumer end. The block has LGA2011 mounts; with adapters and a back plate pre-installed and boy were these a pain in the *** to remove (ended up have to find a wrench to get two of them off). The block itself has spring loaded screws which can be slide back and forth to be used with different CPU mounts. Great right? Hell no, these things slide far too easily, to the point where I had an issue keeping them in place while trying to screw them in and given how ungodly stiff the springs are I was afraid of damaging my mobo from the force of getting these things in.

The fans on the unit come installed in a push configuration and given that the pump hangs off the other side this means the unit would have to be used as intake in the default configuration, for some this will be fine but I need the unit to be used as exhaust. Removing the fans was easily one of the worst experiences I've had computer building, they had clearly been massively over tightened by a machine or something. One screw was even striped to **** out the box. Though I know I can't blame swiftech for that, that can happen with any companies products. But if it wasn't for some helpful Google searching on how to remove striped screws without drilling them out I likely would have had to return the unit as there was no way I was about to use this thing as an unfiltered intake. Tlr good unit, straight outta hell assembly.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> This does not sound good lol. You can mount on top and front right? Which is better.
> 
> I am also getting 6800k soon, maybe 5930k
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU cooler: Swiftech h320 X2 prestige Review 0/5
> 
> Edit 04/18/16: A mere ten days after reconsidering how harshly I originally reviewed this unit, one of the fittings sprang a leak. The fitting in question was where the liquid returned to the pump, behind the rez. Lucky for me the only thing under it was my hard drive. For a product of this price this is simply unacceptable.
> 
> Edit 4/8/16: Adding a point to my original review. While I still want to point out how much of a pain this was to get in the case; the ability of this to keep my CPU cool is the best I've ever seen, even during prolonged gaming sessions I've yet to see any core break 40C
> 
> So where to begin with this one. It looks good and does its job admirably and the ability to add things to the loop is amazing. But the setup and partial pre-assembly is both nonsensical and a royal pain on the consumer end. The block has LGA2011 mounts; with adapters and a back plate pre-installed and boy were these a pain in the *** to remove (ended up have to find a wrench to get two of them off). The block itself has spring loaded screws which can be slide back and forth to be used with different CPU mounts. Great right? Hell no, these things slide far too easily, to the point where I had an issue keeping them in place while trying to screw them in and given how ungodly stiff the springs are I was afraid of damaging my mobo from the force of getting these things in.
> 
> The fans on the unit come installed in a push configuration and given that the pump hangs off the other side this means the unit would have to be used as intake in the default configuration, for some this will be fine but I need the unit to be used as exhaust. Removing the fans was easily one of the worst experiences I've had computer building, they had clearly been massively over tightened by a machine or something. One screw was even striped to **** out the box. Though I know I can't blame swiftech for that, that can happen with any companies products. But if it wasn't for some helpful Google searching on how to remove striped screws without drilling them out I likely would have had to return the unit as there was no way I was about to use this thing as an unfiltered intake. Tlr good unit, straight outta hell assembly
> 
> 
> .


Due to the tightness in the top panel, I don't think a 360 is the best choice for an evolv.

The 360 fits up top in the evolvATX, however airflow thru the top panel is very restricted. The 360 fills the mounting bracket in the roof so any air flowing thru the rad must also flow thru the top panel. There are only the narrow slit's on on the top panel bezel and small vents at the front/back of the panel.

I have a 280 rad in the roof of mine setup as "intake". The rad is mounted towards the back of the case leaving a gap towards the front. Hardly any air enters the case thru the top panel, almost all if it comes in thru the front panel and then is sucked up into the roof, and then forced down thru the rad, and finally out the back of the case.


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> You'd be all set with just that for a few refills. When you get a premixed coolant or concentrate, you generally should avoid adding other additives because you might be adding something that will chemically react in a bad way with something in the premix.


ok thans man..


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Due to the tightness in the top panel, I don't think a 360 is the best choice for an evolv.
> 
> The 360 fits up top in the evolvATX, however airflow thru the top panel is very restricted. The 360 fills the mounting bracket in the roof so any air flowing thru the rad must also flow thru the top panel. There are only the narrow slit's on on the top panel bezel and small vents at the front/back of the panel.
> 
> I have a 280 rad in the roof of mine setup as "intake". The rad is mounted towards the back of the case leaving a gap towards the front. Hardly any air enters the case thru the top panel, almost all if it comes in thru the front panel and then is sucked up into the roof, and then forced down thru the rad, and finally out the back of the case.


is air intake gonna affect cooling performance? what if I get better front fans, or even mount in the front? I already have the 320x2 and gskill tridentZ ram

anyone who has a similar set up can tell me how it performs


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Due to the tightness in the top panel, I don't think a 360 is the best choice for an evolv.
> 
> The 360 fits up top in the evolvATX, however airflow thru the top panel is very restricted. The 360 fills the mounting bracket in the roof so any air flowing thru the rad must also flow thru the top panel. There are only the narrow slit's on on the top panel bezel and small vents at the front/back of the panel.
> 
> I have a 280 rad in the roof of mine setup as "intake". The rad is mounted towards the back of the case leaving a gap towards the front. Hardly any air enters the case thru the top panel, almost all if it comes in thru the front panel and then is sucked up into the roof, and then forced down thru the rad, and finally out the back of the case.


Didn't you space your front panel out some? Top can be raised about 6mm simply by removing it's mounting screws, un-clipping it and letting it set on the clips. Very easy way to add about twice the airflow vent area.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Due to the tightness in the top panel, I don't think a 360 is the best choice for an evolv.
> 
> The 360 fits up top in the evolvATX, however airflow thru the top panel is very restricted. The 360 fills the mounting bracket in the roof so any air flowing thru the rad must also flow thru the top panel. There are only the narrow slit's on on the top panel bezel and small vents at the front/back of the panel.
> 
> I have a 280 rad in the roof of mine setup as "intake". The rad is mounted towards the back of the case leaving a gap towards the front. Hardly any air enters the case thru the top panel, almost all if it comes in thru the front panel and then is sucked up into the roof, and then forced down thru the rad, and finally out the back of the case.


Actually.......the 360 works better than the 280mm in the Evolv ATX out of the box. The 360 essentially isolates itself intake to exhaust, while the open space around the 280mm causes excessive recirculation of air to the radiator. If you isolate the 280mm intake to exhaust it isn't an issue.

Also, using the top 360mm as exhaust, the restrictiveness of the top is way overblown.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.......the 360 works better than the 280mm in the Evolv ATX out of the box. The 360 essentially isolates itself intake to exhaust, while the open space around the 280mm causes excessive recirculation of air to the radiator. If you isolate the 280mm intake to exhaust it isn't an issue.
> 
> Also, using the top 360mm as exhaust, *the restrictiveness of the top is way overblown*.


Is that what happens if you take the top's mounting screws out? It is 'overblown'?


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.......the 360 works better than the 280mm in the Evolv ATX out of the box. The 360 essentially isolates itself intake to exhaust, while the open space around the 280mm causes excessive recirculation of air to the radiator. If you isolate the 280mm intake to exhaust it isn't an issue.
> 
> Also, using the top 360mm as exhaust, the restrictiveness of the top is way overblown.


How would you suggest isolating a 280mm (by this I assume you mean the H240 X2)? I'd like to get the H320 but it seems way out of my price-range (can't buy it anywhere in Aus and would have to order from overseas adding an extra $50~ postage).

I was also going to ask re: the H240 X2 how the LED lighting works, does it just illuminate the reservoir or also the tubing? I'd assume just reservoir but some of the videos make it look as if the tubing has been illuminated too. Furthermore is it highly recommended to buy the Prestige over the base version? The better fans sound promising but not sure there's much more too it for the extra ~$70.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> How would you suggest isolating a 280mm (by this I assume you mean the H240 X2)? I'd like to get the H320 but it seems way out of my price-range (can't buy it anywhere in Aus and would have to order from overseas adding an extra $50~ postage).
> 
> I was also going to ask re: the H240 X2 how the LED lighting works, does it just illuminate the reservoir or also the tubing? I'd assume just reservoir but some of the videos make it look as if the tubing has been illuminated too. Furthermore is it highly recommended to buy the Prestige over the base version? The better fans sound promising but not sure there's much more too it for the extra ~$70.


I was in the same boat when I was buying my h240x . Found it cheaper to go directly off swiftech site until pccasegear stocked them.
I'd enquire with pccasegear see if they are getting them as they have the 220and 240x2
Edit
What are you going to be cooling could only?
The helix are very good fans and quiet when set up well. I can't comment on the eloops never used them.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Didn't you space your front panel out some? Top can be raised about 6mm simply by removing it's mounting screws, un-clipping it and letting it set on the clips. Very easy way to add about twice the airflow vent area.


When i have the front panel on, i always leave the bottom propped open a little, but more recently i've just been running it with the front panel completely removed, has a kinda cool naked industrial look. It is a little louder but also a bit cooler running that way.


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> I was in the same boat when I was buying my h240x . Found it cheaper to go directly off swiftech site until pccasegear stocked them.
> I'd enquire with pccasegear see if they are getting them as they have the 220and 240x2
> Edit
> *What are you going to be cooling could only?*
> The helix are very good fans and quiet when set up well. I can't comment on the eloops never used them.


Not really sure exactly what your'e asking re-bolded but just CPU for starters, would like to add GPU to loop at some point but won't initially (probably a year down the track/whenever I first service the loop).

Last I checked the Swiftech site has the H320s out of stock too anyway which is probably leading to them being so hard to find atm.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> How would you suggest isolating a 280mm (by this I assume you mean the H240 X2)? I'd like to get the H320 but it seems way out of my price-range (can't buy it anywhere in Aus and would have to order from overseas adding an extra $50~ postage).
> 
> I was also going to ask re: the H240 X2 how the LED lighting works, does it just illuminate the reservoir or also the tubing? I'd assume just reservoir but some of the videos make it look as if the tubing has been illuminated too. Furthermore is it highly recommended to buy the Prestige over the base version? The better fans sound promising but not sure there's much more too it for the extra ~$70.


Isolation is simple - take some cardboard, plastic, etc (the material is inconsequential as long as it doesn't allow air through) and cover the open areas in the radiator mount. I've used the 3M dampening material with good results - http://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Isolation is simple - take some cardboard, plastic, etc (the material is inconsequential as long as it doesn't allow air through) and cover the open areas in the radiator mount. I've used the 3M dampening material with good results - http://www.amazon.com/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU


Awesome, have you actually tested temps to make sure this works as expected? Don't want to do this just to end up hindering my system


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> How would you suggest isolating a 280mm (by this I assume you mean the H240 X2)? I'd like to get the H320 but it seems way out of my price-range (can't buy it anywhere in Aus and would have to order from overseas adding an extra $50~ postage).
> 
> I was also going to ask re: the H240 X2 how the LED lighting works, does it just illuminate the reservoir or also the tubing? I'd assume just reservoir but some of the videos make it look as if the tubing has been illuminated too. Furthermore is it highly recommended to buy the Prestige over the base version? The better fans sound promising but not sure there's much more too it for the extra ~$70.


I twisty tie single ply cardboard pieces to the mounting bracket to close off areas i want closed off. As mentioned before, i don't completely seal the top from the bottom, i leave a 2 inch gap at the front so cool air can be drawn up into the roof and pushed back down thru the rad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Awesome, have you actually tested temps to make sure this works as expected? Don't want to do this just to end up hindering my system


I'm guessing you don't know who ciarlatano is.







His testing and reviews are some of the most respected around. If he doesn't know it's true it is not said .. so if he says it, you can believe it.


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm guessing you don't know who ciarlatano is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His testing and reviews are some of the most respected around. If he doesn't know it's true it is not said .. so if he says it, you can believe it.


Nah mate I'm completely new to the forum, haven't cared so much for build quality in the past (only really done budget builds) so most of this is new to me. Cheers for the heads up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Awesome, have you actually tested temps to make sure this works as expected? Don't want to do this just to end up hindering my system


Of course....hence the mention of the material used. I am not going to attach numbers to it since builds differ. However, transplanting a system from a Luxe using two 240mm was giving higher temps with all components and fans the same. With the restrictive top and open area it was a pretty easy guess what was going on - the rad exhaust was taking the path of least resistance, which led right back to the rad's intake. Sealing it up brought temps back to where I expected them to be and had seen them in the Luxe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm guessing you don't know who ciarlatano is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His testing and reviews are some of the most respected around. If he doesn't know it's true it is not said .. so if he says it, you can believe it.


Eh...I don't know about the "respected" part. But, if I haven't tested it, I do point out that I am working with a supposition.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Nah mate I'm completely new to the forum, haven't cared so much for build quality in the past (only really done budget builds) so most of this is new to me. Cheers for the heads up.


Always better to question what peeps say. There are way too many who make rash statements as fact with no knowledge what-so-ever. Many have identity ten tea symptoms.







Good rule of thumb is anyone who makes many solid 'yes' or 'no' kinds of statement ("it's black or white, no gray range") are often smoke screens rather than truth.







Ciarlatano may not have a H220 X2, but he did have the H220 X and tested it rather extensively over an extended period .. if my memory is still any good .. and that is open to debate. Just ask my wife.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ciarlatano may not have a H220 X2, but he did have the H220 X and tested it rather extensively over an extended period .. if my memory is still any good .. and that is open to debate. Just ask my wife.


And an H240-X....and an H220....and a Glacer 240L....and the kit with the Apogee X-Drive.....


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.......the 360 works better than the 280mm in the Evolv ATX out of the box. The 360 essentially isolates itself intake to exhaust, while the open space around the 280mm causes excessive recirculation of air to the radiator. If you isolate the 280mm intake to exhaust it isn't an issue.
> 
> Also, using the top 360mm as exhaust, the restrictiveness of the top is way overblown.


So there won't be a significant difference in performance between a luxe and evolv atx with h320x2?


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course....hence the mention of the material used. I am not going to attach numbers to it since builds differ. However, transplanting a system from a Luxe using two 240mm was giving higher temps with all components and fans the same. With the restrictive top and open area it was a pretty easy guess what was going on - the rad exhaust was taking the path of least resistance, which led right back to the rad's intake. Sealing it up brought temps back to where I expected them to be and had seen them in the Luxe.
> Eh...I don't know about the "respected" part. But, if I haven't tested it, I do point out that I am working with a supposition.


Okay that's simple enough.. Do you think I'm better off with 3x 120mm or 2x140mm fans in the front?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Okay that's simple enough.. Do you think I'm better off with 3x 120mm or 2x140mm fans in the front?


It depends on the fans and whether you are using mechanical drives. Ideally, you would like slightly more total CFM from the intake fans into the main chamber than the total CFM of the exhausting rad fans. If you are going with the H240-X2 with the Helix, the included F140SP fans will do a great job, especially if you raise them to the upper mounting position.

I tried 4-5 different combinations of Noctua, Phanteks, and Silverstones, both dual 140mm and triple 120mm. The included F140SP were the best of them in that application.


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends on the fans and whether you are using mechanical drives. Ideally, you would like slightly more total CFM from the intake fans into the main chamber than the total CFM of the exhausting rad fans. If you are going with the H240-X2 with the Helix, the included F140SP fans will do a great job, especially if you raise them to the upper mounting position.
> 
> I tried 4-5 different combinations of Noctua, Phanteks, and Silverstones, both dual 140mm and triple 120mm. The included F140SP were the best of them in that application.


Will probably get the H240 X2 Prestige which comes iwth the Noiseblocker fans I think? I was planning on getting the Antec TwoCool 140mm fans for the other placements (2x front 1x rear) based on the noise/temp ratings in the other thread but could easily go with the Phantek's. I'd happily get more Noiseblocker's but they're pretty much impossible to get in Australia afaik and too expensive to import, I just don't want the Noctua's as they're so damn ugly


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Will probably get the H240 X2 Prestige which comes iwth the Noiseblocker fans I think? I was planning on getting the Antec TwoCool 140mm fans for the other placements (2x front 1x rear) based on the noise/temp ratings in the other thread but could easily go with the Phantek's. I'd happily get more Noiseblocker's but they're pretty much impossible to get in Australia afaik and too expensive to import, I just don't want the Noctua's as they're so damn ugly


The Antec would distinctly be a downgrade from the included fans in this application. You could change fans for the sake of changing fans (which seems to be something that users feel obligated to do, for some reason), but you would be hard pressed to find a fan at any cost that will outperform the included Phanteks fans (that many make their obligatory switch to when using other cases......







)in the front of the Evolv ATX.

"Different" does not always mean "better".


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Antec would distinctly be a downgrade from the included fans in this application. You could change fans for the sake of changing fans (which seems to be something that users feel obligated to do, for some reason), but you would be hard pressed to find a fan at any cost that will outperform the included Phanteks fans (that many make their obligatory switch to when using other cases......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )in the front of the Evolv ATX.
> 
> "Different" does not always mean "better".


lol, you know what I hadn't even looked into what fans came on the case assuming them to be bad







Cheers for saving me a few $$


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> lol, you know what I hadn't even looked into what fans came on the case assuming them to be bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for saving me a few $$


I am in the Phantek owners club and the F140SP are constantly recommended by people who own them, seem to be a very good fan at the price.


----------



## Wam7

I've setup a 240-X on a Asus RIVBE. How can I monitor the fan speeds and pump speeds? I tried speed fan but it's only showing hard drive temps and no fans. The SATA splitter is plugged into the motherboard CPU fan header and the lead from the block is plugged into the CPU Opt fan header.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've setup a 240-X on a Asus RIVBE. How can I monitor the fan speeds and pump speeds? I tried speed fan but it's only showing hard drive temps and no fans. The SATA splitter is plugged into the motherboard CPU fan header and the lead from the block is plugged into the CPU Opt fan header.


You can use ASUS FanXpert software (part of the Asus AI Suite), it lets you see each and every fan you have connected. You would need to connect each fan onto a separate header on the mobo. The one the pump is connected to will display it as a fan as well, but you can read the readings as pump rpm.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cennis*
> 
> You can use ASUS FanXpert software (part of the Asus AI Suite), it lets you see each and every fan you have connected. You would need to connect each fan onto a separate header on the mobo. The one the pump is connected to will display it as a fan as well, but you can read the readings as pump rpm.


So that means plugging the pump fan header into the motherboard instead of the supplied splitter. Is that OK as I understand the pump needs a constant 12V?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> So that means plugging the pump fan header into the motherboard instead of the supplied splitter. Is that OK as I understand the pump needs a constant 12V?


The pump draws power from the SATA cable, unless you are using the original H220. In that case there are adapters to connect power to the PSU while using the header for PWM only.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've setup a 240-X on a Asus RIVBE. How can I monitor the fan speeds and pump speeds? I tried speed fan but it's only showing hard drive temps and no fans. The SATA splitter is plugged into the motherboard CPU fan header and the lead from the block is plugged into the CPU Opt fan header.


You can only monitor the speed of one of the fans plugged into the splitter. Sounds like you have two fans and the pump plugged into the splitter, is that right? The lead from the block just powers the LED in the block, putting that on CPU_OPT, a precious monitor-able pwm capable fan header, is not a good use of such a limited resource.

I'd suggest putting the pump on the CPU header and putting both fans on the splitter and connecting the splitter to CPU_OPT. This way you can monitor the speed of one fan and the pump. (Note, the pump will still be powered via it's sata connector but the pwm control and rpm tach signals will be hooked up the the CPU header.)

All kinds of monitoring software can show rpm of devices on those headers: Aida, HWiNFO64, and HwMonitor. Personally, i like aida for its excellent OSD. I'd suggest not using AiSuite for basic monitoring, it's bloated and way overkill for that.


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Couple more random questions regarding the H240 X2/whatever.

So it comes pre-sealed, but is it worth actually taking it apart and cleaning it on arrival? I've read a lot about new rads needing cleaning etc so is it worth doing this?

Furthermore slightly off-topic from Swiftech but I've also seen a lot of people saying stay away from dyes, what about coolants such as Mayhem Pastel? Do they stain parts and do other nasty things that the dyes might?

Cheers for all the help btw guys, airflow/water-cooling are certainly very fascinating topics to learn about


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Couple more random questions regarding the H240 X2/whatever.
> 
> So it comes pre-sealed, but is it worth actually taking it apart and cleaning it on arrival? I've read a lot about new rads needing cleaning etc so is it worth doing this?
> 
> Furthermore slightly off-topic from Swiftech but I've also seen a lot of people saying stay away from dyes, what about coolants such as Mayhem Pastel? Do they stain parts and do other nasty things that the dyes might?
> 
> Cheers for all the help btw guys, airflow/water-cooling are certainly very fascinating topics to learn about


No need to take it apart. The rad is cleaned prior to it being filled.

Mayhems Pastel *is* dye. Actually the nastiest one as far as staining (except for Aurora, which isn't for regular use). You definitely want to stay away from pastels.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No need to take it apart. The rad is cleaned prior to it being filled.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel *is* dye. Actually the nastiest one as far as staining (except for Aurora, which isn't for regular use). You definitely want to stay away from pastels.


The non-white ones have dye. The white pastel is the natural color of the nanoparticle aggregates.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Couple more random questions regarding the H240 X2/whatever.
> 
> So it comes pre-sealed, but is it worth actually taking it apart and cleaning it on arrival? I've read a lot about new rads needing cleaning etc so is it worth doing this?
> 
> Furthermore slightly off-topic from Swiftech but I've also seen a lot of people saying stay away from dyes, what about coolants such as Mayhem Pastel? Do they stain parts and do other nasty things that the dyes might?
> 
> Cheers for all the help btw guys, airflow/water-cooling are certainly very fascinating topics to learn about


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No need to take it apart. The rad is cleaned prior to it being filled.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel *is* dye. Actually the nastiest one as far as staining (except for Aurora, which isn't for regular use). You definitely want to stay away from pastels.


To add to that if you don't understand. It seems all dyes stain, no matter how good they are but the pastels are the worse. The real concern here is not so much staining as it is build up. All dyes/pastels add something to the mix which has minerals in it. Over time those minerals will build up and interrupt your flow. That will require more than normal maintenance to keep your loop running at top notch. This is why it is recommended to use only distilled water and a biocide when refilling your loop.

One last thing that is also a question for the more informed (like @ciarlatano). I was told a while back that using straight distilled water without any additives will not cause your loop to rust out. Some people prefer straight distilled water with a regular drain and refill at least once or twice a year, I have heard they have no problems with rust or bacteria build up. Is this true?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The non-white ones have dye. The white pastel is the natural color of the nanoparticle aggregates.


You mean those same nanoparticles that Swiftech states damages their pumps and voids your warranty? Lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> To add to that if you don't understand. It seems all dyes stain, no matter how good they are but the pastels are the worse. The real concern here is not so much staining as it is build up. All dyes/pastels add something to the mix which has minerals in it. Over time those minerals will build up and interrupt your flow. That will require more than normal maintenance to keep your loop running at top notch. This is why it is recommended to use only distilled water and a biocide when refilling your loop.
> 
> One last thing that is also a question for the more informed (like @ciarlatano). I was told a while back that using straight distilled water without any additives will not cause your loop to rust out. Some people prefer straight distilled water with a regular drain and refill at least once or twice a year, I have heard they have no problems with rust or bacteria build up. Is this true?


As far as the straight distilled.....
I....
Just....
Dont....
Get it....

I am responsible for what are essentially the same types of loops that cool and heat office complexes. If one of my contractors suggested removing the brocade and anti-scaling from a loop, I would cancel their contract on the spo .


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mean those same nanoparticles that Swiftech states damages their pumps and voids your warranty? Lol


Yup, those very ones









To be fair, those as they arrive out of the product box are fine with these pumps. But one user/component error and.. not anymore.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As far as the straight distilled.....
> I....
> Just....
> Dont....
> Get it....
> 
> I am responsible for what are essentially the same types of loops that cool and heat office complexes. If one of my contractors suggested removing the brocade and anti-scaling from a loop, I would cancel their contract on the spo .


Exactly!








Distilled water is great as a base, but it does not stop bacterial and corrosion problems, so these additives are needed to stabilize the solution.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Killua Zoldyck*
> 
> Couple more random questions regarding the H240 X2/whatever.
> 
> So it comes pre-sealed, but is it worth actually taking it apart and cleaning it on arrival? I've read a lot about new rads needing cleaning etc so is it worth doing this?
> 
> Furthermore slightly off-topic from Swiftech but I've also seen a lot of people saying stay away from dyes, what about coolants such as Mayhem Pastel? Do they stain parts and do other nasty things that the dyes might?
> 
> Cheers for all the help btw guys, airflow/water-cooling are certainly very fascinating topics to learn about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No need to take it apart. The rad is cleaned prior to it being filled.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel *is* dye. Actually the nastiest one as far as staining (except for Aurora, which isn't for regular use). You definitely want to stay away from pastels.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To add to that if you don't understand. It seems all dyes stain, no matter how good they are but the pastels are the worse. The real concern here is not so much staining as it is build up. All dyes/pastels add something to the mix which has minerals in it. Over time those minerals will build up and interrupt your flow. That will require more than normal maintenance to keep your loop running at top notch. This is why it is recommended to use only distilled water and a biocide when refilling your loop.
> 
> One last thing that is also a question for the more informed (like @ciarlatano). I was told a while back that using straight distilled water without any additives will not cause your loop to rust out. Some people prefer straight distilled water with a regular drain and refill at least once or twice a year, I have heard they have no problems with rust or bacteria build up. Is this true?
Click to expand...

you need a biocide

anti-corrosive is subjective, ( and is coming back into "style" as preferred )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> To add to that if you don't understand. It seems all dyes stain, no matter how good they are but the pastels are the worse. The real concern here is not so much staining as it is build up. All dyes/pastels add something to the mix which has minerals in it. Over time those minerals will build up and interrupt your flow. That will require more than normal maintenance to keep your loop running at top notch. This is why it is recommended to use only distilled water and a biocide when refilling your loop.
> 
> One last thing that is also a question for the more informed (like @ciarlatano). I was told a while back that using straight distilled water without any additives will not cause your loop to rust out. Some people prefer straight distilled water with a regular drain and refill at least once or twice a year, I have heard they have no problems with rust or bacteria build up. Is this true?
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the straight distilled.....
> I....
> Just....
> Dont....
> Get it....
> 
> I am responsible for what are essentially the same types of loops that cool and heat office complexes. If one of my contractors suggested removing the brocade and anti-scaling from a loop, I would cancel their contract on the spo .
Click to expand...

you can not directly compare the two although there are several similarities,
1 use of tap water that may / may not be exposed to atmosphere depending on your system
2 many many many more mixed metals then we have in most of our loops !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As far as the straight distilled.....
> I....
> Just....
> Dont....
> Get it....
> 
> I am responsible for what are essentially the same types of loops that cool and heat office complexes. If one of my contractors suggested removing the brocade and anti-scaling from a loop, I would cancel their contract on the spo .
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Distilled water is great as a base, but it does not stop bacterial and corrosion problems, so these additives are needed to stabilize the solution.
Click to expand...

again anti-corrosives are subjective, and generally personal preference.

imo ( key there is MY OPINION ) and/or I ( and most ) will replace it before anything fails.

the single weakest link in your loop are the rubber gaskets and again these will generally outlive the item they are in


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you need a biocide
> 
> anti-corrosive is subjective, ( and is coming back into "style" as preferred )
> you can not directly compare the two although there are several similarities,
> 1 use of tap water that may / may not be exposed to atmosphere depending on your system
> 2 many many many more mixed metals then we have in most of our loops !
> again anti-corrosives are subjective, and generally personal preference.
> 
> imo ( key there is MY OPINION ) and/or I ( and most ) will replace it before anything fails.
> 
> the single weakest link in your loop are the rubber gaskets and again these will generally outlive the item they are in


While the comparison is not exact, I was making a point. Concentrates are cheap, plentiful and easy to use - PH Nuke or the like, also, but with more margin for error. There is no excuse for not doing it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you need a biocide
> 
> anti-corrosive is subjective, ( and is coming back into "style" as preferred )
> you can not directly compare the two although there are several similarities,
> 1 use of tap water that may / may not be exposed to atmosphere depending on your system
> 2 many many many more mixed metals then we have in most of our loops !
> again anti-corrosives are subjective, and generally personal preference.
> 
> imo ( key there is MY OPINION ) and/or I ( and most ) will replace it before anything fails.
> 
> the single weakest link in your loop are the rubber gaskets and again these will generally outlive the item they are in


The fin plate in waterblocks are very thin and close together. It does not take much corrosion to eat them out or bacteria to block water flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> While the comparison is not exact, I was making a point. Concentrates are cheap, plentiful and easy to use - PH Nuke or the like, also, but with more margin for error. There is no excuse for not doing it.


What ciarlatano said.









Biocide and corrosion inhibitors are essential to loop health. While I haven't studied up on what all in include in these concentrates, I would suspect there is some kind of lubricant in them as well .. for the pump. I know it is in most automotive coolants.


----------



## Mega Man

and yet many have been using them without issue without anti corrosives

look at martin from martins liquid lab, and i ( and many others, look at the watercooling section of this forum )

how many years have you used straight pt nuke and distilled ? i have since 2012, and my original pc is still running the original components without issue ....

sorry but we will not ever agree on this issue-and that is ok, there is no right or wrong answer

and sorry if you can not add a proper amount of pt nuke or iandh deadwater you really should not be doing watercooling


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and yet many have been using them without issue without anti corrosives
> 
> look at martin from martins liquid lab, and i ( and many others, look at the watercooling section of this forum )
> 
> how many years have you used straight pt nuke and distilled ? i have since 2012, and my original pc is still running the original components without issue ....
> 
> sorry but we will not ever agree on this issue-and that is ok, there is no right or wrong answer
> 
> and sorry if you can not add a proper amount of pt nuke or iandh deadwater you really should not be doing watercooling


Ah, you see, you mention the PT Nuke. I had mentioned that earlier. The issue is with just running straight distilled. While it will work most of the time with absolutely no issue, a trapeze artist also makes most of his transfers - should he stop using a net? I just feel with the extra protection so readily available, it should be used.

And, in case you haven't noticed, there are far more users moving to liquid for the first time. With that has come a huge influx of really, really bad advice in the forums. So, in many cases the "proper amount" of PT Nuke is related entirely wrong. Every time I peruse the water cooling section here these days I feel like the old lady in the Progressive commercial talking about social networking....I just keep saying "that's not how this works...that's not how any of this works.....".


----------



## Mega Man

well, like i said no right or wrong answer just a counter point.
as to how much to use if they cant read the bottle.... i cant help them !

i am a firm believer in you are responsible and you need to be responsible to do your own legwork


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well, like i said no right or wrong answer just a counter point.
> as to how much to use if they cant read the bottle.... i cant help them !
> 
> i am a firm believer in you are responsible and you need to be responsible to do your own legwork


Indeed!








So much 'snake oil' out there with many identity ten tea users not understanding what snake oil is or not following instructions on good productsl leads to way too many unnecessary problems.

I'm curious, is it possible biocide ingredients also function as corrosion inhibitors?


----------



## Mega Man

afaik no

we know what they are iandh deadwater/ptnuke is Copper sulfate

ptnuke phn = Benzalkonium chloride


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> afaik no
> 
> we know what they are iandh deadwater/ptnuke is Copper sulfate
> 
> ptnuke phn = Benzalkonium chloride


I asked because pure water draws particles from around ti to balance it's lack of same. In a closed loop I would expect this to not take long and do little damage. But in automatic car washes we found the pure water used for spot free final rinse literally disoved the insides of piping and spray nozzles creating premature pipe and nozzle failures. Once changed to plastic piping and nozzles (sometimes stainless nozzles) it was no longer a problem.


----------



## michael-ocn

I use a concentrate product because i trust that the manufacture has actually done some homework and testing and has come up with reasonable formulation.

If i were to roll my own with ptnuke and maybe some kind of corrosion inhibitor and water softener... well.. which ptnuke (there are at least two) and how much of that and how much is a "splash" of what kind of anti-freeze and how much of what brand of dishsoap works well as a softener? And will that concoction in the ratios i mixed up have any ill affects? Gee, idk?

Concentrate, boom done.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I use a concentrate product because i trust that the manufacture has actually done some homework and testing and has come up with reasonable formulation.
> 
> If i were to roll my own with ptnuke and maybe some kind of corrosion inhibitor and water softener... well.. which ptnuke (there are at least two) and how much of that and how much is a "splash" of what kind of anti-freeze and how much of what brand of dishsoap works well as a softener? And will that concoction in the ratios i mixed up have any ill affects? Gee, idk?
> 
> Concentrate, boom done.


Exactly.

And you don't need to weed through the "my cousin's neighbor's dog walker's boyfriend added bloody mary mix as a biocide and dropped his temps eleventy billion degrees!!!!".


----------



## n64ADL

whats the difference between the 240 x 2 and the 240 x2 prestige???


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> whats the difference between the 240 x 2 and the 240 x2 prestige???


Eloops instead of helix fans


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> whats the difference between the 240 x 2 and the 240 x2 prestige???


The Prestige has compression fittings and NoiseBlocker e-loop fans rather than the Swiftech Helix fans.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The fin plate in waterblocks are very thin and close together. It does not take much corrosion to eat them out or bacteria to block water flow.
> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biocide and corrosion inhibitors are essential to loop health. While I haven't studied up on what all in include in these concentrates, I would suspect there is some kind of lubricant in them as well .. for the pump. I know it is in most automotive coolants.


The difference between PC watercooling and a car is that most people put regular tap water in their radiator, which has a tendency to rust out because of that. Hence the reason for the rust inhibitors. In recent years I have never known anyone to develop rust in their loop if they are using distilled water. I do remember many years ago when people were using regular tap water that rust was a big problem. But you will notice when your loop develops rust as it does turn the water a different color.

Funny story (slightly related): I had a 96 grand am that had dexcool in it. In 1999 or 2000 I took it into the "Firestone" to have have something done to the car. They came back and told me I need to have the water flushed and refilled because it was really rusted out. I said ok because it was not that expensive and I had the money. When they were done I noticed the water light was on. I told them about it and they said it was because of the new antifreeze and it will go out in a few hours. A day later the light was still on. I popped the hood to inspect it and noticed the sticker that said to only use Dex cool and it dawned one me that dex cool is orange, meaning it looked rusty. I took it back and raised hell with them. Not only did they replace the fluid with fresh dex cool but I also got my money back for the drain and flush. Less than a minute after starting the car the light went out and I never had another problem with the coolant again. I drove that car until 2005. I learned at that time to never take any car to Firestone again. They had also previously screwed up changing the tires on the car. They kept forgetting the lug nut caps and also broke a few of the bolts because they over tightened the lug nuts a few times. At the time they tried convincing me it was not their fault. Unfortunately for them I knew better. The bad thing was while I was on a cruise my ex had to take the car in to either get new tires or have them rotated. When I got home from the cruise I noticed that one of the lug nut bolts were completely broken off along with a few caps being missing. I knew then that she had taken the car to Firestone... I easily replaced the bolt myself.
Even in the area where I live now Firestone has a bad reputation, how in the world do they stay open?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and yet many have been using them without issue without anti corrosives
> 
> look at martin from martins liquid lab, and i ( and many others, look at the watercooling section of this forum )
> 
> how many years have you used straight pt nuke and distilled ? i have since 2012, and my original pc is still running the original components without issue ....
> 
> sorry but we will not ever agree on this issue-and that is ok, there is no right or wrong answer
> 
> and sorry if you can not add a proper amount of pt nuke or iandh deadwater you really should not be doing watercooling


Great example!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The difference between PC watercooling and a car is that most people put regular tap water in their radiator, which has a tendency to rust out because of that. Hence the reason for the rust inhibitors. In recent years I have never known anyone to develop rust in their loop if they are using distilled water. I do remember many years ago when people were using regular tap water that rust was a big problem. But you will notice when your loop develops rust as it does turn the water a different color.


What many people do and what they should be doing are quite often not the same .








The real difference between a car cooling system and PC cooling system is the amount of heat involved and of course the pressure in car cooling systems. Bacteria is not much of a problem in a system reaching 100c.








I always use distilled water with automotive coolant .. have been doing for more the 30 years. Reason is it was what coolant manufacturers recommended. It more than doubles the working life of the coolant. Caterpillar, Volvo and many other recommend using distilled water with coolant.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What many people do and what they should be doing are quite often not the same .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real difference between a car cooling system and PC cooling system is the amount of heat involved and of course the pressure in car cooling systems. Bacteria is not much of a problem in a system reaching 100c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always use distilled water with automotive coolant .. have been doing for more the 30 years. Reason is it was what coolant manufacturers recommended. It more than doubles the working life of the coolant. Caterpillar, Volvo and many other recommend using distilled water with coolant.


Yeah that all makes perfect sense. It also probably helps with extending the engine life also.
I was mainly focusing on rust as even today plenty of cars suffer from rust in the cooling system. You know I never thought of it, but how many gallons of water does a typical car take?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The difference between PC watercooling and a car is that most people put regular tap water in their radiator, which has a tendency to rust out because of that. Hence the reason for the rust inhibitors. In recent years I have never known anyone to develop rust in their loop if they are using distilled water. I do remember many years ago when people were using regular tap water that rust was a big problem. But you will notice when your loop develops rust as it does turn the water a different color.
> 
> Funny story (slightly related): I had a 96 grand am that had dexcool in it. In 1999 or 2000 I took it into the "Firestone" to have have something done to the car. They came back and told me I need to have the water flushed and refilled because it was really rusted out. I said ok because it was not that expensive and I had the money. When they were done I noticed the water light was on. I told them about it and they said it was because of the new antifreeze and it will go out in a few hours. A day later the light was still on. I popped the hood to inspect it and noticed the sticker that said to only use Dex cool and it dawned one me that dex cool is orange, meaning it looked rusty. I took it back and raised hell with them. Not only did they replace the fluid with fresh dex cool but I also got my money back for the drain and flush. Less than a minute after starting the car the light went out and I never had another problem with the coolant again. I drove that car until 2005. I learned at that time to never take any car to Firestone again. They had also previously screwed up changing the tires on the car. They kept forgetting the lug nut caps and also broke a few of the bolts because they over tightened the lug nuts a few times. At the time they tried convincing me it was not their fault. Unfortunately for them I knew better. The bad thing was while I was on a cruise my ex had to take the car in to either get new tires or have them rotated. When I got home from the cruise I noticed that one of the lug nut bolts were completely broken off along with a few caps being missing. I knew then that she had taken the car to Firestone... I easily replaced the bolt myself.
> Even in the area where I live now Firestone has a bad reputation, how in the world do they stay open?
> Great example!


I've had bad luck with firestone too. I used to buy tires there and one time i let them to an re-alignment servicing. That was a mistake. One the first attempt, there was a funny rattling noise. Brought it back and it took some convincing before they finally decided to even take a closer look. Ooops, something wasn't tighened like ti should have been. A little while after, the car when out-of alignment very very seriously. Tire squealingly out of alignment around simple turns. No harsh driving involved, just regular tooling around on regular roads I've driven for years. They redid it again and at least the tire squealing stopped, but it pulled slightly one way or another. Finally took it to a real shop and they straightened it out proper and my sports coupe was right again.

Foolish of me to have trusted a shop that primarily sells tires to do an alignment.

Nobody i know uses tap in an automotive radiator? Always distilled mixed with an anti-freeze/corrosive (ethylene glycol).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I use a concentrate product because i trust that the manufacture has actually done some homework and testing and has come up with reasonable formulation.
> 
> If i were to roll my own with ptnuke and maybe some kind of corrosion inhibitor and water softener... well.. which ptnuke (there are at least two) and how much of that and how much is a "splash" of what kind of anti-freeze and how much of what brand of dishsoap works well as a softener? And will that concoction in the ratios i mixed up have any ill affects? Gee, idk?
> 
> Concentrate, boom done.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> And you don't need to weed through the "my cousin's neighbor's dog walker's boyfriend added bloody mary mix as a biocide and dropped his temps eleventy billion degrees!!!!".
Click to expand...

you are making a false argument

the homework has already been done
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/02/distilled-water-is-the-king-of-water-cooling/
Quote:


> I couldn't believe it, after two years the system only needed topping off of the reservoirs due to evaporation, but the water remained perfectly clear and there wasn't any notable deposition of materials. At last, a sustainable solution.
> 
> However, I should note that this loop was all bare copper/brass/plastic blocks, there were not any nickel plated products other than the plated brass barb fittings.





source

RIP DD :/


their web site is still up ;/ COME BACK Q!QQQQ


----------



## michael-ocn

martin is awesome, i really appreciate his analysis and experimentation

having no clue what all metals are in my aio or what mixed metals may be present in it at some point in the future... i'm sticking to my guns on having chosen a clear concentrate with biocidal and anti-corrisive properties, its the right choice for me... years ago martin suggested hydrx, green ethylene glycol, for use in mixed metals scenarios, i'd rather not have the green.


----------



## Mega Man

that is fine i already said there isnt a right answer .

for the record your rad is a normal rad brass copper and i am sure some SS and the solder

the problem i have is pushing one or the other on them

you dont have to guess, the history has been done, and there are directions on the bottle

if you dont use an anti corrosive your loop wont dissolve before your eyes or even in a few years ( 3+ years without issue usually closer to 5 as by then you change cases and change rads --- not always ! )
if you choose to - great ! it will negatively impact your thermal transfer
( see above links )

i can tell you i run straight water ( and idanh deadwater/ptnuke ) and average a 2-3deg water to air temp delta ---- with LOW rpm fans ( I E i am running them at low rpm ) and only 1 rad with fans on ( of 5 )

max temp my cpu has seen is 63 ( i encode movies ) with that ( this pc 3930k @ 4.8 1.415v 2400 ram and 4 gpus ( 2x295x2)


----------



## Frank08

Hey everyone quick question, I got a h240-x and for the first few days everything was working fine, but now it seems that the pump only wants to run at max speed. I was able to control it before with my motherboard, but now it doesn't respond to the PWM curve. I tried switching fan headers but that didn't help. Any ideas? (btw I can control my fans fine with the fan headers)


----------



## Mega Man

i would make sure your cpu header is set to pwm in bios

fyi MOST motherboards ONLY pwm headers are the cpu/cpuopt headers .


----------



## doyll

To me running without anti-corrosive is kinda like someone who is alergic to bees not having an EpiPen handy. The chance of needing to use it are very slim, but if it is needed the result is life over death.

Using the additive hurts nothing but stops electrolysis and scaling in the off chance there is a metal in the system that would cause it to happen.

The argument should not be if it should be used, but which products to use.









It only takes a slight change in metal composition in components used to cause electrolysis / corrosion / scaling to occur. Why take the chance?


----------



## Mega Man

How many links do I need to show it DOES NOT happen. Look above.
And it has been proven that anything besides water hurts thermal transfer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> How many links do I need to show it DOES NOT happen. Look above.
> And it has been proven that anything besides water hurts thermal transfer.


Your opinion is being countered by many others with similar knowledge and experience. Therefore it seems rather apparent you may not be as correct as you are claiming to be. I remember an sprinkler irrigation engineer who had designed and installed over 100 systems with no electrolysis issues. Then one only a year old started leaking, progressively worse and worse. Guess what, electrolysis was eating up the pipes. After that he always included electrolysis control into his designs.
Moral of that story is better safe than sorry.


----------



## Mega Man

again, comparing apples to apes you continue to try to obfuscate by comparing anything BUT pcs with pcs. you can not make a clear cut comparison

you seem to think i am alone on this topic, but mart of martins liquid lab, bneg and most of the "big" names in watercooling agree, you can even search ON OCN to see proofs, my th10 has been run on just that since i got it, without issue or harm yet you continue to PUSH this ludicrous stuff, which is WRONG

if people want to use it GREAT but it should be explained it is a PREFERENCE not a REQUIREMENT, NOTHING bad will happen

most pc users DO NOT use any metals in our loops that will cause us issues in the lifetime of the equipment. there is still al rads, blocks and other things around, and in those loops YES use it.

but copper WILL NOT corrode copper

otherwise if you want to use it, then use it. that is fine. even if YOU feel better using it, no one, not even i will say not to

but dont try *snake oil tactics to scare people* ( which you are, just look at your "horrible" stories about leaks.... in everything but a pc)

last no, it is not being countered by many SOME people use anti-corrosive, some dont just because people are silent does not mean they dont exist the fact you have to make up these things shows to me how weak your argument is. search the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread for many such examples or (eh there are too many threads to bother feel free to look )


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> again, comparing apples to apes you continue to try to obfuscate by comparing anything BUT pcs with pcs. you can not make a clear cut comparison
> 
> you seem to think i am alone on this topic, but mart of martins liquid lab, bneg and most of the "big" names in watercooling agree, you can even search ON OCN to see proofs, my th10 has been run on just that since i got it, without issue or harm yet you continue to PUSH this ludicrous stuff, which is WRONG
> 
> if people want to use it GREAT but it should be explained it is a PREFERENCE not a REQUIREMENT, NOTHING bad will happen
> 
> most pc users DO NOT use any metals in our loops that will cause us issues in the lifetime of the equipment. there is still al rads, blocks and other things around, and in those loops YES use it.
> 
> but copper WILL NOT corrode copper
> 
> otherwise if you want to use it, then use it. that is fine. even if YOU feel better using it, no one, not even i will say not to
> 
> 
> 
> but dont try *snake oil tactics to scare people* ( which you are, just look at your "horrible" stories about leaks.... in everything but a pc)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> last no, it is not being countered by many SOME people use anti-corrosive, some dont just because people are silent does not mean they dont exist the fact you have to make up these things shows to me how weak your argument is. search the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread for many such examples or


Sometimes you are just too much!








Here are examples of what I'm saying can happen.


https://pinoytekkie.wordpress.com/tag/business/


http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working/0_20

Another thread with similar problem
http://www.overclock.net/t/1586170/cpu-block-corrosion-pictures-included/0_20

I'm saying it takes is just the right combination of different metals for a coolant system to cause corrosion. Be it 1:1000, 1:100,000, or 1:10,000,000 chance, to me it['s just not worth the risk.
I'm going to continue suggesting the use inhibitors so that is cannot happen.


----------



## Mega Man

So again user error...
I saw a funny sign that I think applies here









(Not directed at you but at these "wonderful" pics)
The first link seems to be dead? But judging by the looks of the block had nothing to do with corrosion and more to do with flaking of nickel due to the issue ek had at that time (I could be wrong on the timeline, but it was a manufacturing defect) that has since been corrected?

Again the second one seems to be flaking of fittings.

And third one is also flaking.

Flaking, 99% of the time has little to nothing to do with corrosion. But poor prep prior to the flaking process and or (speaking of nickel) too thin a coat.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> Hey everyone quick question, I got a h240-x and for the first few days everything was working fine, but now it seems that the pump only wants to run at max speed. I was able to control it before with my motherboard, but now it doesn't respond to the PWM curve. I tried switching fan headers but that didn't help. Any ideas? (btw I can control my fans fine with the fan headers)


Without knowing what MB you have, it is impossible to say much here. If it is the P8P67 Pro in your sig, the *ONLY* header that can control it is the CPU header (since it is the only PWM header on the board).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


This is great. But.....you know my feelings on the approach of many users, so it may not apply as much as it should....

And you two (@doyll & @Mega Man) need to agree to disagree on this. Lots of valid points on two _successful_ approaches. There is no right or wrong on this one, just preference.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So again user error...
> I saw a funny sign that I think applies here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not directed at you but at these "wonderful" pics)
> The first link seems to be dead? But judging by the looks of the block had nothing to do with corrosion and more to do with flaking of nickel due to the issue ek had at that time (I could be wrong on the timeline, but it was a manufacturing defect) that has since been corrected?
> 
> Again the second one seems to be flaking of fittings.
> 
> And third one is also flaking.
> 
> Flaking, 99% of the time has little to nothing to do with corrosion. But poor prep prior to the flaking process and or (speaking of nickel) too thin a coat.


I like it!








Strange, the like works fine for me.
https://pinoytekkie.wordpress.com/tag/business/
Open and scroll down to 7th topic.

What ciarlatano said. We are both making correct statements, just differing opinions.


----------



## rfarmer

About 6 months ago while expanding my loop with an additional radiator I decided on a new coolant mixture. After reading comments in here I decided on distilled water and ptnuke. All parts were rinsed out with a mixture of distilled water and 10% vinegar before hand. Instructions on the bottle said to add 1 to 2 drop of ptnuke for each liter of water, I added 4 drops and used less than 2 liters.

Within one month the water in my loop started turning green, algae everywhere.

I completely disassembled the loop and thoroughly cleaned all parts including cpu block, pump, reservoir and gpu block. I than used a mixture of distilled water and Mayhems XT-1 concentrate. 4 months later and still crystal clear.

Distilled and ptnuke may work for some, but I will never use it again.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your opinion is being countered by many others with similar knowledge and experience. Therefore it seems rather apparent you may not be as correct as you are claiming to be. I remember an sprinkler irrigation engineer who had designed and installed over 100 systems with no electrolysis issues. Then one only a year old started leaking, progressively worse and worse. Guess what, electrolysis was eating up the pipes. After that he always included electrolysis control into his designs.
> Moral of that story is better safe than sorry.


The difference is a sprinkler system uses tap water and not distilled water. That is a big difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> About 6 months ago while expanding my loop with an additional radiator I decided on a new coolant mixture. After reading comments in here I decided on distilled water and ptnuke. All parts with rinsed out with a mixture of distilled water and 10% vinegar before hand. Instructions on the bottle said to add 1 to 2 drop of ptnuke for each liter of water, I added 4 drops and used less than 2 liters.
> 
> Within one month the water in my loop started turning green, algae everywhere.
> 
> I completely disassembled the loop and thoroughly cleaned all parts including cpu block, pump, reservoir and gpu block. I than used a mixture of distilled water and Mayhems XT-1 concentrate. 4 months later and still crystal clear.
> 
> Distilled and ptnuke may work for some, but I will never use it again.


Yeah I am using the Mayhems XT-1 with distilled and nothing else and so far so good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> About 6 months ago while expanding my loop with an additional radiator I decided on a new coolant mixture. After reading comments in here I decided on distilled water and ptnuke. All parts were rinsed out with a mixture of distilled water and 10% vinegar before hand. Instructions on the bottle said to add 1 to 2 drop of ptnuke for each liter of water, I added 4 drops and used less than 2 liters.
> 
> Within one month the water in my loop started turning green, algae everywhere.
> 
> I completely disassembled the loop and thoroughly cleaned all parts including cpu block, pump, reservoir and gpu block. I than used a mixture of distilled water and Mayhems XT-1 concentrate. 4 months later and still crystal clear.
> 
> Distilled and ptnuke may work for some, but I will never use it again.


Something is seriously wrong. While as I have said that is fine I would like to talk about why?

1 how did you know it was algae ( just curious )
2 did rinse out your loop with tap or distilled?
3 after rinsing did you let them dry?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Something is seriously wrong. While as I have said that is fine I would like to talk about why?
> 
> 1 how did you know it was algae ( just curious )
> 2 did rinse out your loop with tap or distilled?
> 3 after rinsing did you let them dry?


I had to wait an additional month before I got the Mayhems and had time to take apart the loop, there was algae forming on all the internal parts.

I rinsed it out with distilled and 10% white vinegar, it was not that long after rinsing that I filled the loop so was probably not completely dry.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The difference is a sprinkler system uses tap water and not distilled water. That is a big difference.


No these springlerw were using mostly very pure well water water.








These were all big comercial farming system. Mostly pivit systems. Those big dots you see on the ground when you fly commercial.









But you are correct, it was not distilled but your distilled water takes ions out of system to balance itself, and then it is a conductor, just like tap water.

But the purer the distilled water is the more ions it sucks out of it's environment to balance itself. In a cooling loop that is not usually a problem. But in a flow system like car was spot-free rinse it can means pipes are corroded (eaten) away at a much accelerated rate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 did rinse out your loop with tap or distilled?
> 3 after rinsing did you let them dry?


A dry loop? You must be kidding!
It is virtually impossible to dry out the inside of a radiator!
Would require fabricating a Hepa-filtered air system blowing through radiator for at least a day or two .. hardly practical.


----------



## Mega Man

Your right... time would never let it dry out









Also I never said it had to dry.

I don't dry them. But I asked because it may be an issue with cross contamination.


----------



## Frank08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Without knowing what MB you have, it is impossible to say much here. If it is the P8P67 Pro in your sig, the *ONLY* header that can control it is the CPU header (since it is the only PWM header on the board).


Oh I need to update my rig, my motherboard is MSI Z170 M5, has like 3-4 pwm fan headers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would make sure your cpu header is set to pwm in bios
> 
> fyi MOST motherboards ONLY pwm headers are the cpu/cpuopt headers .


I'll check to see if there's pwm setting, but I don't remember seeing one. It's weird that it would work fine and then all of a sudden the pump wouldn't let me control it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your right... time would never let it dry out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I never said it had to dry.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by Mega Man
> after rinsing did you let them dry?


Most English speaking people would understand the above statement would assume by asking if it was allowed to dry, you think it should be dry.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> Oh I need to update my rig, my motherboard is MSI Z170 M5, has like 3-4 pwm fan headers.
> I'll check to see if there's pwm setting, but I don't remember seeing one. It's weird that it would work fine and then all of a sudden the pump wouldn't let me control it.


The only PWM headers on that board are the CPU headers. The rest are voltage controlled with a dead 4th pin. See the diagram in your manual:



If you accidentally switched the header to DC (or not so "Smart Fan" decided to do it), you would lose control of the pump. You would also be at risk of damaging the pump - it was designed to see 12V at all times, and Swiftech has stated that undervolting can cause damage.

The is a rudimentary overview of fan control on page 67 of your manual, but says nothing about selectable PWM/DC on the CPU headers. I seem to recall you could on the MPower, but I don't have that board any longer to check in BIOS for you.


----------



## Frank08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The only PWM headers on that board are the CPU headers. The rest are voltage controlled with a dead 4th pin. See the diagram in your manual:
> 
> 
> 
> If you accidentally switched the header to DC (or not so "Smart Fan" decided to do it), you would lose control of the pump. You would also be at risk of damaging the pump - it was designed to see 12V at all times, and Swiftech has stated that undervolting can cause damage.
> 
> The is a rudimentary overview of fan control on page 67 of your manual, but says nothing about selectable PWM/DC on the CPU headers. I seem to recall you could on the MPower, but I don't have that board any longer to check in BIOS for you.


Ah did not know that, thanks a lot! Well my pump is plugged in to CPUFAN2 header, but it still runs at max. I noticed there's a BIOS update for my board, I don't know if that will help, but I'll flash it and hopefully that fixes it.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> Ah did not know that, thanks a lot! Well my pump is plugged in to CPUFAN2 header, but it still runs at max. I noticed there's a BIOS update for my board, I don't know if that will help, but I'll flash it and hopefully that fixes it.


I had the same problem with my H220x.. I tried everything.. That the end I had to RMA it and they replaced the pump ... second time after pump was replaced it went to min.. But so far its been ok and my system is on 24/7..


----------



## Frank08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I had the same problem with my H220x.. I tried everything.. That the end I had to RMA it and they replaced the pump ... second time after pump was replaced it went to min.. But so far its been ok and my system is on 24/7..


That's probably what I'm gonna have to do. Do you guys now if swiftech honors the warranty even if you're not the original owner?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> That's probably what I'm gonna have to do. Do you guys now if swiftech honors the warranty even if you're not the original owner?


you would need a copy of original invoice for you to rma the unit..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Something is seriously wrong. While as I have said that is fine I would like to talk about why?
> 
> 1 how did you know it was algae ( just curious )
> 2 did rinse out your loop with tap or distilled?
> 3 after rinsing did you let them dry?
> 
> 
> 
> I had to wait an additional month before I got the Mayhems and had time to take apart the loop, there was algae forming on all the internal parts.
> 
> I rinsed it out with distilled and 10% white vinegar, it was not that long after rinsing that I filled the loop so was probably not completely dry.
Click to expand...

Hmm that really sucks

I don't have a good answer but I can tell you that is not normal

:/

The only thing I can see online is too much vinegar can accelerate growth of stuffs (ie to much vinegar residue)

Imo people try to add too much steps

I believe in k.i.s.s. (keep it simple stupid)

Some swear by vinegar. Others ketchup I prefer good old water. Maybe soap if needed but I rinse the heck out of it

I usually just attach a hose to my hot water heater and just blast the snot outta w.e.

This comes with some risk as it may be too much pressure but I never had an issue ( talking blocks and rads I just hand wash fittings )

Now I just want to clarify not saying you did anything wrong or right just sharing my experience and opinion there is no right answers and something else you can try.

Brief history most people use vinegar/ketchup as they feel they need something to clean vs just water and or so the acid cleans the copper to shiny. Shiny copper does not help not hinder your temps. But some prefer to see it

At least you got it working now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> That's probably what I'm gonna have to do. Do you guys now if swiftech honors the warranty even if you're not the original owner?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frank08*
> 
> Ah did not know that, thanks a lot! Well my pump is plugged in to CPUFAN2 header, but it still runs at max. I noticed there's a BIOS update for my board, I don't know if that will help, but I'll flash it and hopefully that fixes it.


Don't know about MSI, but some motherboard fan headers need to be manually set to PWM in bios.
It is also not uncommon for CPU FAN 2 to not be PWM while CPU FAN 1 is, so might be worth trying both headers.
Also look at speed control setting and see what the PWM / TEMP / rpm curve is set at.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Has anyone on here used their Swiftech AIO? in a push pull configuration? Will a push/pull configuration work with the AIOs as one would only be able to use a total of 3 fans so only half the AIO would be in push/pull.

If someone here has tried this; what fans did you use and did you see an improvement in temps?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Has anyone on here used their Swiftech AIO? in a push pull configuration? Will a push/pull configuration work with the AIOs as one would only be able to use a total of 3 fans so only half the AIO would be in push/pull.
> 
> If someone here has tried this; what fans did you use and did you see an improvement in temps?


It's a slim low fpi rad. The only "gain" will be the noise of another fan.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's a slim low fpi rad. The only "gain" will be the noise of another fan.


Thanks. I had seen some result of other units in a push/pull config and their temps improved between 5 to 10 degrees plus. I did not think it would work with the Swiftech AIOs.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks. I had seen some result of other units in a push/pull config and their temps improved between 5 to 10 degrees plus. I did not think it would work with the Swiftech AIOs.


More than negligible improvements would only occur on thicker and/or higher fpi radiators. 99% of the 5-10 degree improvements people report are _highly_ exaggerated. See below, you will notice the only large improvements are on thicker rads:


----------



## doyll

Fan used has more effect then push/pull. A good push (or pull) will give better performance than many push/pull do .. and with less noise.


----------



## Mega Man

the big push for push pull is looks

the second big push is being able to LOWER your fan speed. ( some rads with excessive FPI it may help in, but not many )


----------



## doyll

What@Mega Man









I'll only add:

Running 2x of same fans increases sound level by 3 dB Adding a 3rd fan adds another 1.76 dB, adding a 4th adds another 1.25 dB. This means a 2 fan radiator going to push/pull increases sound level by 3 dB.
Push/pull allows lower fan speed because while lower fan speed is lower pressure, the stacking gives them more pressure, and we all know that fans with higher pressure move more air when faced with airflow resistance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What@Mega Man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll only add:
> 
> Running 2x of same fans increases sound level by 3 dB Adding a 3rd fan adds another 1.76 dB, adding a 4th adds another 1.25 dB. This means a 2 fan radiator going to push/pull increases sound level by 3 dB.
> Push/pull allows lower fan speed because while lower fan speed is lower pressure, the stacking gives them more pressure, and we all know that fans with higher pressure move more air when faced with airflow resistance.


not completely true.

1 crappy fans --or high speed fans, or having to keep fans higher speed to keep "your" thermal zone

great example ( not of crappy fans ) but 3k noctunas say you have to run them @ 1500 rpm to keep your thermal zone.

but with 2 ( hypothetically ) you can keep them @ 800rpm which is BOTH in your thermal envelope and in your noise envelope

i have 40 ap30s, in my rig all pwm modded.



1 fan @ full vs all @ 1500 vs all @ 800 vs some @ 800

loudest to quietest. again in my sound envelope which will differ from person to person


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *i have 40 ap30s, in my rig all pwm modded.*


That's about 2 feet by 3 feet square of fan surface area, if you had a big window, you could use the array as a big window fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not completely true.
> 
> 1 crappy fans --or high speed fans, or having to keep fans higher speed to keep "your" thermal zone
> 
> great example ( not of crappy fans ) but 3k noctunas say you have to run them @ 1500 rpm to keep your thermal zone.
> 
> but with 2 ( hypothetically ) you can keep them @ 800rpm which is BOTH in your thermal envelope and in your noise envelope
> 
> i have 40 ap30s, in my rig all pwm modded.
> 
> 
> 
> 1 fan @ full vs all @ 1500 vs all @ 800 vs some @ 800
> 
> loudest to quietest. again in my sound envelope which will differ from person to person


I thought about elaborating farther about fan speed /flow to sound level of stacked vs single, but figured it would become too complicaed.









After the first 15 or 20 fans, more fans don't make much of an increase in sound level .. less than 2dB increase from 20 fans to 30 fans.


----------



## Caos

received the Mayhems X1, I mix with one liter of distilled water? with a liter already filled the h220x2 prestige?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> received the Mayhems X1, I mix with one liter of distilled water? with a liter already filled the h220x2 prestige?


No, the H220 X2 Prestige will not take a full liter of fluids, not even half that. Filling a radiator is a slow process and it is up to you to judge when it is full.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What`s the verdict, is H320x2 prestige worth the 60 euro price premium over the H320x2 regular peasant edition ? ( both should have compression fittings if im not wrong on that one )
It`s so hard to decide between the H320x2 prestige vs H320x2 vs EK predator 360 vs custom loop, loosing my mind here. I dont know if im to blame or what`s up, but I cant really find a decent review or even someones own testing wich one to go for, just cooling 6700K and single 1080 once they are out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> What`s the verdict, is H320x2 prestige worth the 60 euro price premium over the H320x2 regular peasant edition ? ( both should have compression fittings if im not wrong on that one )
> It`s so hard to decide between the H320x2 prestige vs H320x2 vs EK predator 360 vs custom loop, loosing my mind here. I dont know if im to blame or what`s up, but I cant really find a decent review or even someones own testing wich one to go for, just cooling 6700K and single 1080 once they are out.


Are eLoops and compression fittings worth 60 to you? That is the difference.

The Swiftechs have outperformed the Predators in siliar sizes in every test I have seen by a small margin, and have been far quieter doing it. The Swiftechs also have a stronger pump in case of expansion, and are significantly easier to fill and bleed.

"Peasant Edition"? As opposed to "The Mighty Hill People Edition"? Thy eLoopeth and fittings of compression seek the vial of tundra......


----------



## outofmyheadyo

But lets say we compare the H320x2 prestige to a custom loop, custom loop wich costs 120€ more than the swiftech, will I actually SEE better temperatures and HEAR less noise ? Or Im just supposed to be happy over the fact that I have a easily expandable and better piece of kit in general in my system, that I can use for years?
I`ll add a picture of the said custom loop. Noise levels are also very important.
And most people say that it`s a chore to maintain the loop add this and that, drain it for whenever you add a new piece, but that sounds awfully interesting for me, I have a feeling that custom is the way I should go and that 120€ doesnt really matter that much. But again I have no idea how much better performance I get out of the custom.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> But lets say we compare the H320x2 prestige to a custom loop, custom loop wich costs 120€ more than the swiftech, will I actually SEE better temperatures and HEAR less noise ? Or Im just supposed to be happy over the fact that I have a easily expandable and better piece of kit in general in my system, that I can use for years?
> I`ll add a picture of the said custom loop. Noise levels are also very important.
> And most people say that it`s a chore to maintain the loop add this and that, drain it for whenever you add a new piece, but that sounds awfully interesting for me, I have a feeling that custom is the way I should go and that 120€ doesnt really matter that much. But again I have no idea how much better performance I get out of the custom.


The H320-X2 is a pre-assembled collection of custom loop components. The only piece that is at all stunted from the retail versions is the pump, which is still more powerful than many offered in kits and plenty to do three blocks. Will you see or hear a difference? Possibly, but not very much.

BTW - there are other manufacturers making individual components other than EK. I use a lot of their stuff, myself, but they are certainly not the end-all be-all.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a question that it would be nice to have a Swiftech rep chime in on.

Does anyone know if there are any plans to offer a more configurable AIO that can be mounted on the bottom of the case?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H320-X2 is a pre-assembled collection of custom loop components. The only piece that is at all stunted from the retail versions is the pump, which is still more powerful than many offered in kits and plenty to do three blocks. Will you see or hear a difference? Possibly, but not very much.
> 
> BTW - there are other manufacturers making individual components other than EK. I use a lot of their stuff, myself, but they are certainly not the end-all be-all.


Yes I am aware that there are plenty of other companies making all sorts of watercooling gear, but as this would be my first loop and I have mostly seen EK stuff I am not all to sure wich other ones to go for if shopping in www.highflow.nl. And thats the problem I have no idea if going custom is worth it or not, and I have been thinkin about it for weeks now, still dont know, wich one would you go for, the swiftech or the EK custom loop, D5 alone should make it worth it, no ? Also I personally cant really stand how swiftech looks









Sorry for the offtopic, but its kind of on topic since swiftech is a semifinalist.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Yes I am aware that there are plenty of other companies making all sorts of watercooling gear, but as this would be my first loop and I have mostly seen EK stuff I am not all to sure wich other ones to go for if shopping in www.highflow.nl. And thats the problem I have no idea if going custom is worth it or not, and I have been thinkin about it for weeks now, still dont know, wich one would you go for, the swiftech or the EK custom loop, D5 alone should make it worth it, no ? Also I personally cant really stand how swiftech looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the offtopic, but its kind of on topic since swiftech is a semifinalist.


Obviously, your choices are much more limited with Highflow as your only source, so an all EK loop isn't a bad direction.

As far as the loop vs the H320-X2, it really boils down to "is a couple of degrees worth 120 to you?', because that is what you are looking at. If you don't like the looks of the Swiftech, then are the looks worth 120 to you? The D5 vs MCP30 is a total non-factor unless you are planning on ending up with a much larger loop.


----------



## Tim Drake

Anybody know what size the tubing is for the original H320?

Thinking of expanding it


----------



## springs113

3/8in 5/8outer if i recall correctly


----------



## luziiu

Alright, now that Highflow has opened again (and offers free shipping until Friday







) I ordered some sleeving stuff from them to see how shipping etc goes.
If everything works out well, I'll probably order a H220x2 there as recommended by ciarlatano. Now, this is my first experience with watercooling and I'd love to have the liquid/tube color look like this:


Could you guys please let me know what's the best and newbie-friendly way to achieve this with the H220x2 and what components I need additionally? Thanks a lot!

As for the fans, I'll probably just put on a pair of NF-F12 industrialPPC PWMs. Should both work at lower and slightly higher RPM than the stock Helix fans (which I've never heard of).


----------



## Mega Man

ever since bram left swiftech has all but disappeared .... sucks


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ever since bram left swiftech has all but disappeared .... sucks


agreed...I wonder if @Dango is still the rep here


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ever since bram left swiftech has all but disappeared .... sucks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> agreed...I wonder if @Dango is still the rep here


Yeah it would be nice for them to chime in once in awhile to answer some question and what not.

I think it would be an awesome idea if they came out with an AIO that could be mounted on the bottom of a case. But so far they seem stuck on the design they have that basically has two mounting positions........


----------



## Mega Man

no, asecrap patent trolled their way into that ...

and you can easily do it. mod it or go full custom . ek has a "slim kit " that would work as well


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah it would be nice for them to chime in once in awhile to answer some question and what not.
> 
> I think it would be an awesome idea if they came out with an AIO that could be mounted on the bottom of a case. But so far they seem stuck on the design they have that basically has two mounting positions........


I don't want to sound mean, but you need to start another thread on how to cool your GPU if you aren't going to use a Swiftech. It is totally off topic here and has already consumed numerous pages in this thread.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't want to sound mean, but you need to start another thread on how to cool your GPU if you aren't going to use a Swiftech. It is totally off topic here and has already consumed numerous pages in this thread.


I'll 2nd that motion.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't want to sound mean, but you need to start another thread on how to cool your GPU if you aren't going to use a Swiftech. It is totally off topic here and has already consumed numerous pages in this thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'll 2nd that motion.


I don't want to sound mean either but that question was about the Swiftech AIO's. Isn't that what this thread is about? When I posted that question I was not even thinking of my GPU I was thinking of the limits these units have in regards to positioning. So please read the question and understand it is not always based on your interpretation.

You can't mount any of the Swiftech AIO's on the bottom unless you do some heavy modding like lengthy screws and to me that is not practical.

Edit: I already know how to cool my GPU and what I am going to use.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, asecrap patent trolled their way into that ...
> 
> and you can easily do it. mod it or go full custom . ek has a "slim kit " that would work as well


Yeah I have seen those but I so prefer Swiftech.

The AIO's in this thread have a much greater value than any other fully custom kit including the stuff in Swiftech's line up. After going through the process of looking for a viable cooling solution for my GPU amongst other things it dawned on me as to why does Swiftech limit the possibilities with their AIO's? I know of a few people that chose another AIO simply because of that fact. I know these AIO's are designed primarily for the CPU but they can be used to cool other parts just as easily.

Consequently one of my recent ideas was to go with the H320- X2 Prestige and use quick disconnects for all my connections. But that did not seem very viable.

The primary reason (other than the performance value) I prefer the Swiftech AIO's is the reservoirs do not have to be mounted separately and do not really take up that much space. All the added tubing and parts needed to have a fully custom loop with the reservoir seems to make it all that much more difficult to maintain. But that is just my opinion. I know and understand that others prefer different ways but that is not me.
I see that watercooling has come a long long way in the last 10 years and I can only hope to see even better improvements over the next few years. It would be nice to see a Swiftech AIO series that is mountable in the bottom of a PC case (without mods).


----------



## outofmyheadyo

You can replace swiftech h320x2 barbed fittings with compression ones right, are they G1/4?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> You can replace swiftech h320x2 barbed fittings with compression ones right, are they G1/4?


Yes.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks for all the info ciarlatano, decided to go for the Swiftech H320x2 regular version, should be arriving in a few days, afterall if it doesnt live up to my expectations I can always go for the customloop later, and resell the kit for what I bought it for 200€ including shipping seems like a good deal, and compared to what corsair&nzxt have the audacity to ask for theirs 140€ for the 115i and 125€ for the 110i and even the kraken x61 is 125€, swiftech should be miles ahead of all of them.
Two years ago I bought the original H220 wich ended up having a bad pump, but swiftech really handled it well, got my money back, lets hope I have better luck with this one.


----------



## Streetdragon

i didnt wanted to fill this thread with the same question:
Can someone look over my build-ideas?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1600797/expand-h240x-question-about-parts


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i didnt wanted to fill this thread with the same question:
> Can someone look over my build-ideas?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1600797/expand-h240x-question-about-parts


I have not heard of either the fittings or the pure water you have on that list. You do not need another reservoir as long as you continue to use the H240 reservoir. Otherwise it all looks good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i didnt wanted to fill this thread with the same question:
> Can someone look over my build-ideas?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1600797/expand-h240x-question-about-parts


Answered in your thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have not heard of either the fittings or the pure water you have on that list. You do not need another reservoir as long as you continue to use the H240 reservoir. Otherwise it all looks good.


They aren't common in the US. If you look at his thread (and answer there), he needs suggestions that can be purchased from Highflow.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thanks for all the info ciarlatano, decided to go for the Swiftech H320x2 regular version, should be arriving in a few days, afterall if it doesnt live up to my expectations I can always go for the customloop later, and resell the kit for what I bought it for 200€ including shipping seems like a good deal, and compared to what corsair&nzxt have the audacity to ask for theirs 140€ for the 115i and 125€ for the 110i and even the kraken x61 is 125€, swiftech should be miles ahead of all of them.
> Two years ago I bought the original H220 wich ended up having a bad pump, but swiftech really handled it well, got my money back, lets hope I have better luck with this one.


Or you can use the H320-X2 as the base for a custom loop. It works well.


----------



## n64ADL

are there many places that sell the H320-X2???


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n64ADL*
> 
> are there many places that sell the H320-X2???


Here are the 4 primary places I order stuff from.
PerformancePCS
Amazon
Ebay
Newegg
I listed them in order of cost. If you have Amazon Prime then shipping is free and fast (and cheapest after shipping costs for performance PCS is added) in most places (I use it all the time). It seems Newegg is a little over priced....lol.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Here are the 4 primary places I order stuff from.
> PerformancePCS
> Amazon
> Ebay
> Newegg
> I listed them in order of cost. If you have Amazon Prime then shipping is free and fast (and cheapest after shipping costs for performance PCS is added) in most places (I use it all the time). It seems Newegg is a little over priced....lol.


I used to buy all my compter parts from Newegg, I have built entire systems exclusively from Newegg. I am in the process of a new build atm and I only got 2 parts from Newegg. I got most of it from Performance PC and Ebay..


----------



## jincuteguy

So where can one buy the H320 X2 Prestige version right now?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would revealing where you live be to much to ask for right now im pretty sure it's planet earth.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would revealing where you live be to much to ask for right now im pretty sure it's planet earth.


No, it's not too much to ask, but at least you asked for it. Im in San Diego, CA, USA.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So where can one buy the H320 X2 Prestige version right now?


Please see the links I posted right above your post....


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Please see the links I posted right above your post....


All of them are sold out, except Ebay, should I trust buying from Ebay?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> All of them are sold out, except Ebay, should I trust buying from Ebay?


I am seeing six left in stock at Amazon. Ebay is fine just make sure you check the seller's rating.
I prefer Amazon since I am in the states, I get most of everything I order in 2 days or less. Without the shipping costs it usually ends up being cheaper than anywhere else, not always but usually.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am seeing six left in stock at Amazon. Ebay is fine just make sure you check the seller's rating.
> I prefer Amazon since I am in the states, I get most of everything I order in 2 days or less. Without the shipping costs it usually ends up being cheaper than anywhere else, not always but usually.


6stock on amazon is not H320 man, that's H220 X2 Prestige.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> 6stock on amazon is not H320 man, that's H220 X2 Prestige.


You asked for the Prestige unit.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So where can one buy the H320 X2 Prestige version right now?


Consequently there are 8 of the non Prestige 320 units in stock on Amazon right now.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You asked for the Prestige unit.......
> Consequently there are 8 of the non Prestige 320 units in stock on Amazon right now.


Dude, I said I was looking for H320 X2 Prestige, did u even read? I didn't say I want the H220 x2 Prestige

You provided the wrong information on amazon, they have NO H320 X2 Prestige.


----------



## NaXter24R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dude, I said I was looking for H320 X2 Prestige, did u even read? I didn't say I want the H220 x2 Prestige
> 
> You provided the wrong information on amazon, they have NO H320 X2 Prestige.


I saw something on ebay the other day, they are both in US, more than that, i can't help you. Maybe there is something here in Europe but put tax and shipment into the equation and that's not good anymore.
If you want, you can contact swiftech on their forum and ask when they will send new products to resellers.
Right now they are a bit overpriced since Swiftech is out of stock.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaXter24R*
> 
> I saw something on ebay the other day, they are both in US, more than that, i can't help you. Maybe there is something here in Europe but put tax and shipment into the equation and that's not good anymore.
> If you want, you can contact swiftech on their forum and ask when they will send new products to resellers.
> Right now they are a bit overpriced since Swiftech is out of stock.


Yea I dont think Swiftech will get anymore stock for themselves, they been out of stock for a while now. They only get stock for their Resellers and that's it, dont think they will be selling anymore on their own website.


----------



## NaXter24R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea I dont think Swiftech will get anymore stock for themselves, they been out of stock for a while now. They only get stock for their Resellers and that's it, dont think they will be selling anymore on their own website.


Try to ask them, sometimes they know where it's available








Moreover, you're in US if i'm right, so should be easier than my side. US or Canada maybe, still better than find something in all Europe


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dude, I said I was looking for H320 X2 Prestige, did u even read? I didn't say I want the H220 x2 Prestige
> 
> You provided the wrong information on amazon, they have NO H320 X2 Prestige.


Oh wow, haha. I didn't even notice. I searched for the 320 prestige and that is what came up. What gets me is it is the same price as the 320X2 Prestige unit. To think I almost ordered that.

Swiftech had some on their site a few weeks or so ago, as I thought about ordering one. I am not going to use it just yet and do not want to start the warranty until I will actually be using the unit.


----------



## n64ADL

how much more performance from the 240xl prestige vs 320xl 2 prestige???


----------



## n64ADL

does anyone know a good tutorial about how to add a gpu to the h320 x2 liquid cooling system loop?? thought about adding a 140 radiator to loop it around back to the radiator.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone have any experience switching up the fittings on h320x2 do I have room to just use normal compression fittings or do I need angled ones like 45 or 90 degrees, I want to add a GPU to the loop and thought I'll just swap out all the fittings to EK.


----------



## Mega Man

it is personal pref. you can use any fittings you like !

all should be g1/4 fittings


----------



## Madmaxneo

Anyone know anything about this supposed Apogee SKF block that is next up for Swiftech?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> would be nice if swiftech were here
> 
> i miss @BramSLI1 he was active !
> 
> it looks flow optimized however ( the big channels next to the fins )


----------



## Killua Zoldyck

Looking at picking up a secondhand 980Ti/Titan X atm and will be using a a H240 x2 Prestige, if I add the GPU to the loop will it hold up okay?


----------



## Streetdragon

On the h240x. Where goes the water in and out? Comes it out where the tube is conectet to the pump or at the radiator


----------



## Streetdragon

Bump


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> On the h240x. Where goes the water in and out? Comes it out where the tube is conectet to the pump or at the radiator


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*


Bless you thx! I searched now 4 hours for an answer


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> On the h240x. Where goes the water in and out? Comes it out where the tube is conectet to the pump or at the radiator


Never mind. It was posted already. It was odd because when I responded it showed your "bump" post was the last post with no other pages to follow.


----------



## Madmaxneo

extra post


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would ya leaktest your h320x2 before installation, or would u just pop it in and hope for the best?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would ya leaktest your h320x2 before installation, or would u just pop it in and hope for the best?


Imo you should always leak test...unplug the far ends of the psu, leaving only the pump power sata plugged in and jump the psu manually or buy a jump plug then power on the psu and leak test for awhile...you don't want to risk your components for a few hours time...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> On the h240x. Where goes the water in and out? Comes it out where the tube is conectet to the pump or at the radiator


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Would ya leaktest your h320x2 before installation, or would u just pop it in and hope for the best?


I'd install it into the system as normal and lay paper towels down directly below the unit and connections to ensure there are no leaks. I personally do not have the space to leave something out of my system and running like that. My workbench is my floor next to my PC, either that or the dinning room table. The dinning room table is really not that feasible because it is the dinning table......


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Plugged it in without PWM, I figure that pump was runnin at full rpm, and the noise was pretty horrifying, Im gonna leave it on for tonight to leaktest, if everythings good, ill fire it up in the morning, hoping regulatging the pump will bring down the noise to acceptable levels.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Plugged it in without PWM, I figure that pump was runnin at full rpm, and the noise was pretty horrifying, Im gonna leave it on for tonight to leaktest, if everythings good, ill fire it up in the morning, hoping regulatging the pump will bring down the noise to acceptable levels.


"Horrifying"? There may be something wrong with the fans or something may be stuck in them. Check to make sure there is nothing in between the fans and the rad....


----------



## outofmyheadyo

the fans werent even plugged in, it was just the pump


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Plugged it in without PWM, I figure that pump was runnin at full rpm, and the noise was pretty horrifying, Im gonna leave it on for tonight to leaktest, if everythings good, ill fire it up in the morning, hoping regulatging the pump will bring down the noise to acceptable levels.


The Swiftech pumps (like most pumps) are always noisy until the system bleeds. Usually takes 2-3 days into the usage.


----------



## Nick-F

my new build with the Swiftech h240 X2 Prestige , with nan extra 120mm XSPC radiator and water block on my GPU

WP_20160526_20_40_51_Pro.jpg 3989k .jpg file


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech pumps (like most pumps) are always noisy until the system bleeds. Usually takes 2-3 days into the usage.


I have not run into the problem yet even with as many times as I have changed out the tubing (figured out it was really old tubing). At first it made a noise but then I started doing the PSU cycle on and off method and it is as quiet as it can get within a few minutes.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have not run into the problem yet even with as many times as I have changed out the tubing (figured out it was really old tubing). At first it made a noise but then I started doing the PSU cycle on and off method and it is as quiet as it can get within a few minutes.


if you expand the loop you will notice it often takes longer to bleed and is not as easy as filling the unit shaking a bit and refilling the empty space....even so micro bubbles can be annoying and take a few days to collect into one bubble outside of the pump which quiets things down...as long as there's no grinding and it sounds like running water is likely just air trapped

@outofmyheadyo

The reason you jump the psu rather than leaving everything powered (this includes the 24 pin to the mobo) is so that if there is a leaky it won't usually kill any components as long as you let them dry before you power them on...I personally haven't had a leak either but I've seen disasters happen when people assume nothings going to leak then bam 4k worth of video cards and mobo cpu is done for


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you expand the loop you will notice it often takes longer to bleed and is not as easy as filling the unit shaking a bit and refilling the empty space....even so micro bubbles can be annoying and take a few days to collect into one bubble outside of the pump which quiets things down...as long as there's no grinding and it sounds like running water is likely just air trapped
> 
> @outofmyheadyo
> 
> The reason you jump the psu rather than leaving everything powered (this includes the 24 pin to the mobo) is so that if there is a leaky it won't usually kill any components as long as you let them dry before you power them on...I personally haven't had a leak either but I've seen disasters happen when people assume nothings going to leak then bam 4k worth of video cards and mobo cpu is done for


I don't shake the pump at all, not since my first time. I have my AIO sitting out side the case with the fill port open and a funnel connected, Once it is full I cycle the psu on for a second then off and bubbles get released. I do this a few times and it is good to go. I tried letting it just run with the power on but after 20 minutes and the water level barely moving I gave up and went with the psu on/off cycle.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> my new build with the Swiftech h240 X2 Prestige , with nan extra 120mm XSPC radiator and water block on my GPU
> 
> WP_20160526_20_40_51_Pro.jpg 3989k .jpg file


That is a nice clean looking build, the Swiftech unit looks right at home in there.


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That is a nice clean looking build, the Swiftech unit looks right at home in there.


Thanks , it was a bit of a squeeze , bottom Rad was thicker than I had allowed for , DOH !


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I don't shake the pump at all, not since my first time. I have my AIO sitting out side the case with the fill port open and a funnel connected, Once it is full I cycle the psu on for a second then off and bubbles get released. I do this a few times and it is good to go. I tried letting it just run with the power on but after 20 minutes and the water level barely moving I gave up and went with the psu on/off cycle.


That works best for me too , I also move PC onto different sides as well .


----------



## Nick-F

I forgot to add that I have some Chrome acrylic panel , so I am going to cut a bit out to sit over bare sound card below gpu .


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> On the h240x. Where goes the water in and out? Comes it out where the tube is conectet to the pump or at the radiator


Comes out the Pump, the water is sucked into the middle of pump from the res, it spins and propels the water out from the center and out of the pump housing. It goes around the loop and into the Rad.

edit: oops, already answered many times


----------



## outofmyheadyo

fixed


----------



## Streetdragon

I finised extending my loop:

After i opend the H240x... it was a mess. The CPU-Block was full of green flakes. No wonder, that my temps were higher as to the beginn of the unit.
The tubes were green inside too(were the old tubes of the first units).
Flushed the H240-x some times. I dont know if i got everything out of it.

Now i wantet to let the pump run on the CPU-Fan pin on the mobo and the splitter+fans on another.
But the fans are spinning at full speed all the time and i cant control them. Not in the BIos or with Speedfan.
Had the first fan on the splitter where the speed get controled,read and the other in the other connections. ->Full speed
Now is the pump where the speed get controled and the fans + pump get controlled. Dont know why.

I wanna split them!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> *un*fixed


HA !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I finised extending my loop:
> 
> After i opend the H240x... it was a mess. The CPU-Block was full of green flakes. No wonder, that my temps were higher as to the beginn of the unit.
> The tubes were green inside too(were the old tubes of the first units).
> Flushed the H240-x some times. I dont know if i got everything out of it.
> 
> Now i wantet to let the pump run on the CPU-Fan pin on the mobo and the splitter+fans on another.
> But the fans are spinning at full speed all the time and i cant control them. Not in the BIos or with Speedfan.
> Had the first fan on the splitter where the speed get controled,read and the other in the other connections. ->Full speed
> Now is the pump where the speed get controled and the fans + pump get controlled. Dont know why.
> 
> I wanna split them!


most motherboards only have 1 real PWM header the CPU header, which is then split into the cpu opt header.

even if other headers are 4 pin they usually are NOT pwn ! they are what i call pseudo pwm, basically they run 5v on the pwm leg ( to run the fan at 100% then voltage control the fan.

many brands of mobos even lie in the instructions about this ! but not all do

my 990fxa ud7 is one of a hand full of boards that acctually have 2 separate REAL pwm headers ( and no cpu opt header :/ )


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What is the best software to use to control PWM curves of the fans and the pump on the H320x2, I have used speedfan in the past, but for some reason it doesn`t work with my current motherboard ( ASUS Z170-A) and the software that asus pushes with their boards is pretty crap.
And I cannot use the pump and the fans on the rad while they run on AUTO because they make way to much noise. is there any other utilities that work well controlling the fans with software, I`d just like to set a static speed, or ramp it up a little when it`s under load, but full speed is unusable.


----------



## Nick-F

I know it gets bad press , but I use ASUS AI suite fan control, I don't have any problems , and in quiet mode you would not know it was even on .


----------



## outofmyheadyo

that`s strange, after you said, you have used it and liked it, I tried reinstalling, and it had more options then I had in it previously, it even checked out the max rpm-s of the fans and I could regulate them seperately, it even knew what`s the max and min ranges on it, it turns out it might actually be usable


----------



## Nick-F

You can also set which temperature sensor the fan uses to control it's speed


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I finised extending my loop:
> 
> After i opend the H240x... it was a mess. The CPU-Block was full of green flakes. No wonder, that my temps were higher as to the beginn of the unit.
> The tubes were green inside too(were the old tubes of the first units).
> Flushed the H240-x some times. I dont know if i got everything out of it.
> 
> Now i wantet to let the pump run on the CPU-Fan pin on the mobo and the splitter+fans on another.
> But the fans are spinning at full speed all the time and i cant control them. Not in the BIos or with Speedfan.
> Had the first fan on the splitter where the speed get controled,read and the other in the other connections. ->Full speed
> Now is the pump where the speed get controled and the fans + pump get controlled. Dont know why.
> 
> I wanna split them!


Simple enough. Your MB only has PWM on the CPU and CPU_OPT headers, one of these will need to be used for the pump.

Get a simple Y connector for your fans and connect them to another header. Since the other headers are not actually PWM, you can not use a PWM splitter on them, you need a simple Y cable.

Do that, and you will have individual control over pump and fan speed.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Simple enough. Your MB only has PWM on the CPU and CPU_OPT headers, one of these will need to be used for the pump.
> 
> Get a simple Y connector for your fans and connect them to another header. Since the other headers are not actually PWM, you can not use a PWM splitter on them, you need a simple Y cable.
> 
> Do that, and you will have individual control over pump and fan speed.


So it is no problem to conect 7-8fans on a single header with Y-Cables?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> So it is no problem to conect 7-8fans on a single header with Y-Cables?


That would be too high a power draw on a single header, you should look into something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> So it is no problem to conect 7-8fans on a single header with Y-Cables?


No, that will be too much for a MB header. I assumed you were only referring to the fans on the Swiftech. You will need a separate fan controller for that many fans, or will need to use multiple MB headers with two fans on each..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That would be too high a power draw on a single header, you should look into something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001


That won't work - the problem here is lack of a PWM signal. What you are suggesting requires a PWM signal, and only replicates the Swiftech splitter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> So it is no problem to conect 7-8fans on a single header with Y-Cables?


ciarlatano said 'Y' connector. 'Y' connectors have 1 fan plug and 2 fan sockets. That is 2 fans on a single header.

How you can turn a 2 fan 'Y' splitter into 7-8 fans defies logic.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ciarlatano said 'Y' connector. 'Y' connectors have 1 fan plug and 2 fan sockets. That is 2 fans on a single header.
> 
> How you can turn a 2 fan 'Y' splitter into 7-8 fans defies logic.


... not your day hm?

Put a splitter on a splitter
YYY
YY
Y
Like this.
Maybe someone a good idea for a fan control?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> ... not your day hm?
> 
> Put a splitter on a splitter
> YYY
> YY
> Y
> Like this.
> Maybe someone a good idea for a fan control?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-4-Channel-3-Pin-3pin-PCI-Cooling-Fan-Speed-Controller-Support-Turn-OFF-Fan-/171904985525?hash=item280655e9b5:g:AAoAAOSwwbdWM3AF

I got one of those for my ncase m1, 4 channel pci fan controller. It is actually a nice heavy duty unit with nice cable sleeving. Considering the price and being from China.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> ... not your day hm?
> 
> Put a splitter on a splitter
> YYY
> YY
> Y
> Like this.
> Maybe someone a good idea for a fan control?


May not be my day, but shooting you down is easier catching hungry fish out of a barrel.








That is still only a maximum of 7 fans, and a Rube Goldberg way just asking for problems.

Besides, ciarlatano posted
Quote:


> Get a simple Y connector


Not 6 of them. When I learned English, 'a' was singular, not 2, 3, 5 .. just 1 (one).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-4-Channel-3-Pin-3pin-PCI-Cooling-Fan-Speed-Controller-Support-Turn-OFF-Fan-/171904985525?hash=item280655e9b5:g:AAoAAOSwwbdWM3AF
> 
> I got one of those for my ncase m1, 4 channel pci fan controller. It is actually a nice heavy duty unit with nice cable sleeving. Considering the price and being from China.


How many fans can you control with that? I ask only because it only shows one connector in the pic...

I use the GRID V2+, or will be using that once I get to installing it. The first unit I had did not work so they sent me a replacement and I hope this unit works. I currently use the AI Suite and it works great except I have one partially dead MB connector, it works but there is only one fan speed which I believe is max for the fan. I got an RMA for my MB but I do not want to be without my primary PC for that long as I await for the the MB to fixed/replaced. Once I get the GRID installed and running all will be good again. I will probably use that with all my fans minus my H240-X unit which I will leave on the MB.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> How many fans can you control with that? I ask only because it only shows one connector in the pic...
> 
> I use the GRID V2+, or will be using that once I get to installing it. The first unit I had did not work so they sent me a replacement and I hope this unit works. I currently use the AI Suite and it works great except I have one partially dead MB connector, it works but there is only one fan speed which I believe is max for the fan. I got an RMA for my MB but I do not want to be without my primary PC for that long as I await for the the MB to fixed/replaced. Once I get the GRID installed and running all will be good again. I will probably use that with all my fans minus my H240-X unit which I will leave on the MB.


Four fans, molex powered.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> So it is no problem to conect 7-8fans on a single header with Y-Cables?
> 
> 
> 
> No, that will be too much for a MB header. I assumed you were only referring to the fans on the Swiftech. You will need a separate fan controller for that many fans, or will need to use multiple MB headers with two fans on each..
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> That would be too high a power draw on a single header, you should look into something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That won't work - the problem here is lack of a PWM signal. What you are suggesting requires a PWM signal, and only replicates the Swiftech splitter.
Click to expand...

not completely true

if they are PWM fans and they use a splitter ( like the swiftech splitter ) that has a separate power source he will be fine with 8 fans - even 10


----------



## Streetdragon

With the splitter i cant control the speed

Can i controll the pump with http://www.aquatuning.de/luftkuehlung/steuergeraete/15449/phobya-tpc-4x-fan-or-pump-controller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25?c=415 ?

If yes, my plan would be but the pump on the coltroller.
All Radiatorfans + Socket on a other channel with http://www.aquatuning.de/kabel/luefterkabel-und-adapter/19194/phobya-y-kabel-4pin-pwm-auf-9x-4pin-pwm-60cm-schwarz
And for the HDD-Bay -> Gpu (4 Fans) on the third channel with http://www.aquatuning.de/kabel/luefterkabel-und-adapter/19193/phobya-y-kabel-4pin-pwm-auf-6x-4pin-pwm-60cm-schwarz


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not completely true
> 
> if they are PWM fans and they use a splitter ( like the swiftech splitter ) that has a separate power source he will be fine with 8 fans - even 10


But....he has no PWM signal to control the Swiftech splitter. That is the issue in the first place. So, yes, he could run eight fans, but they would be at full rpm at all times.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Can i controll the pump with http://www.aquatuning.de/luftkuehlung/steuergeraete/15449/phobya-tpc-4x-fan-or-pump-controller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25?c=415 ?


No, youcells can't control the Swiftech PWM pumps with voltage controller like that Phobya controller, they need PWM signal to change speed.

If youcells need a separate controller to control PWM devices, then the only option might be the Aquacomputer Aquaero controllers: http://www.aquatuning.de/luftkuehlung/steuergeraete/16059/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-usb-fan-controller-grafik-lcd-touch-bedienung-ir-fernbedienung


----------



## rfarmer

Well I did a new build in a NCase M1 and no way to use my H220-X so I had to take a different approach. I did use a Swiftech Apogee Drive II cpu block/pump combo and it works quite well.



So thanks for all the tips and advice on using the Swiftech AIOs but mine is sold on the 2nd and probably won't have another.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I havent taken apart my system yet but, all the threads should be G1/4 on the H320x2 right ? I have a chance to swap all the fittings to 13/19 compressions since I`ll get them and the tubing for cheap but im not all to sure if all the fittings will match, meaning all the threads are G1.4 and I can just replace all the default ones with compressions.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I havent taken apart my system yet but, all the threads should be G1/4 on the H320x2 right ? I have a chance to swap all the fittings to 13/19 compressions since I`ll get them and the tubing for cheap but im not all to sure if all the fittings will match, meaning all the threads are G1.4 and I can just replace all the default ones with compressions.


Yes the X2 are completely G1/4.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Okay thankyou


----------



## Qwerty1zer

Got my H140-X 3 months ago, I'm loving it so far! (Complete sarcasm)

Contacted Swiftech support 5 days ago, still haven't heard from them and if what I hear from other people is true then they probably wont give 2 ****s.
I don't even want an RMA repair for this garbage at this point.

I'm hoping NCIX Canada will exchange this for me (For an X2) even know the 14day exchange period is overdue, but come on 3 months and it looks like this? REALLY?!


----------



## Mega Man

Perfect time for @dango Iirc his name to pop in...


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qwerty1zer*
> 
> Got my H140-X 3 months ago, I'm loving it so far! (Complete sarcasm)
> 
> Contacted Swiftech support 5 days ago, still haven't heard from them and if what I hear from other people is true then they probably wont give 2 ****s.
> I don't even want an RMA repair for this garbage at this point.
> 
> I'm hoping NCIX Canada will exchange this for me (For an X2) even know the 14day exchange period is overdue, but come on 3 months and it looks like this? REALLY?!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My guess is the res window is cracked. Mine had cracks and a slow leak too, leaving white residue below and a foul looking around the edges. It's all fixed up now after replacing the window, flushing, and refilling. Swiftech sent me a kit with coolant concentrate, a new window, a short fill tube, and some tim. I flushed it with sysprep before refilling. It wasn't hard to do, but took a little time.


----------



## doyll

Getting any kind of response from manufacturers in the next 10 days is going to be iffy. Computex 2016 is happening and most of the techs and reps are that the show.


----------



## tongerks

Hi i need your help, do i really need 320 rads for my i5 6600k? because now im using deepcool gammaxx 300 and my temps are really low on 4.2ghz ranging 35-70c only when playing dota 2 and shadow of mordor..

the price of h240x2 and h320x2 are 700 philippine peso only not that much. so im torn with this. im using fractal arc mini r2 and planning to change it to evolv mATX.


----------



## Mega Man

Rule of thumb is 120+(120×a) where "a" is the number of cpus/gpus cooled

So 1 cpu
120+(120×1) =240


----------



## tongerks

are you replying to my question?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi i need your help, do i really need 320 rads for my i5 6600k? because now im using deepcool gammaxx 300 and my temps are really low on 4.2ghz ranging 35-70c only when playing dota 2 and shadow of mordor..
> 
> the price of h240x2 and h320x2 are 700 philippine peso only not that much. so im torn with this. im using fractal arc mini r2 and planning to change it to evolv mATX.


If you are only cooling your cpu the H220-X2 would be more then enough.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi i need your help, do i really need 320 rads for my i5 6600k? because now im using deepcool gammaxx 300 and my temps are really low on 4.2ghz ranging 35-70c only when playing dota 2 and shadow of mordor..
> 
> the price of h240x2 and h320x2 are 700 philippine peso only not that much. so im torn with this. im using fractal arc mini r2 and planning to change it to evolv mATX.


Of course not. As already stated by @Mega Man and @rfarmer, a 240mm (H220-X2) is very sufficient for CPU only. I personally prefer the H240-X2 simply because of the tonal quality.

Whatever forum/reader/etc told you that you need a 360mm for maindtream Intel CPU only has no idea what they are talking about in regards to liquid cooling. You would be wise to ignore "advice" coming from that source.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Of course not. As already stated by @Mega Man and @rfarmer, a 240mm (H220-X2) is very sufficient for CPU only. I personally prefer the H240-X2 simply because of the tonal quality.
> 
> Whatever forum/reader/etc told you that you need a 360mm for maindtream Intel CPU only has no idea what they are talking about in regards to liquid cooling. You would be wise to ignore "advice" coming from that source.


So true, in fact I had the original h220 cooling my gtx780 and 4770k @4.5 ghz with ease. Granted the gpu was a lot cooler than what my 290s are doing but still it was still 2 components that should be generating a decent amount of heat and the h220 did not disappoint. My gpu never passed 62 degrees and my 4770 never passed 65 during about an hour long run of valley benchmark.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How is it possible thatek compressions dont fit the h320x2 cpu block? Isnt g1/4 supposed to be universal? It wont turn down all the way...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How is it possible thatek compressions dont fit the h320x2 cpu block? Isnt g1/4 supposed to be universal? It wont turn down all the way...


G1/4 is a thread size, it has nothing to do with depth.

I know that the the threading was cut shallow on the Apogee XL in the acetal. If you back out a little, then tighten a little more and keep repeating you will get it seated.


----------



## MadGoat

Have a rattle problem again folks. Happens at anything below 2100 RPM (which is where the computer idles).

Sounds like the impeller is rattling on the shaft?

I recently drained and refiled the system. using just distilled water with a kill coil. Started this immediately after I reinstalled. (didn't do this however when the pump was out of the case, but also was running full speed)

Any thoughts, past experiences, help would be greatly appreciated.





Added a couple drops of soap to see if that would help.



No go
(Excuse the typing in the background)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How is it possible thatek compressions dont fit the h320x2 cpu block? Isnt g1/4 supposed to be universal? It wont turn down all the way...
> 
> 
> 
> G1/4 is a thread size, it has nothing to do with depth.
> 
> I know that the the threading was cut shallow on the Apogee XL in the acetal. If you back out a little, then tighten a little more and keep repeating you will get it seated.
Click to expand...

much better to buy a spacer. you can crack it if you are not careful !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> are you replying to my question?


yes


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Watercool, it will be great temperatures and silence they said, but there is no silence nor are there great temps ? No idea what im doing wrong, swiftech h320x2 + EKFC @ 980ti, 15 min realbench test temps got to 83degrees as u can see, set the pump to 1500rpm but its still audible, the swiftech helix fans are in the CPU_OPT header via the swiftech controller board, and working at the same speed i set the pump to for some reason, so about 50% no idea why I cant regulate CPU_OPT and CPU (pump) seperately in asus AISUITE.




Fans are pulling air out from the top of the case, coolant is distilled water, CPU is just 1.3v
This is my first loop, and as it turns out I dont know what im doing, I thought I did but quess not ?
Perhaps I have made a grave mistake with the order of things, but I thought it`s not important?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Watercool, it will be great temperatures and silence they said, but there is no silence nor are there great temps ? No idea what im doing wrong, swiftech h320x2 + EKFC @ 980ti, 15 min realbench test temps got to 83degrees as u can see, set the pump to 1500rpm but its still audible, the swiftech helix fans are in the CPU_OPT header via the swiftech controller board, and working at the same speed i set the pump to so about 50% no idea why I cant regulate CPU_OPT and CPU (pump) seperately in asus AISUITE.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans are pulling air out from the top of the case, coolant is distilled water, CPU is just 1.3v
> This is my first loop, and as it turns out I dont know what im doing, I thought I did but quess not ?
> Perhaps I have made a grave mistake with the order of things, but I thoughts its not important.


The CPU_Fan and CPU_OPT are shared or link. The pump should be connected to the swiftech splitter.
Suggest you ran a 2nd rad in the front to help. Pump noise can last a few days once all the air bubbles are gone.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

But still those temps are ridiculous, I got better temps with air.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

This is with everything at max rpm ( casefans+radfans+pump) and I cant stant being in the same room when everything is fullspeed, air offered better temps and less noise, whats the issue here ?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What is the GPU temp?
Are you going into the GPU first then CPU, that would increase your CPU temps.
Also make sure cpu block is firmly installed and remove plastic cover under cpu block.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yes im going into the gpu first, and ofc I removed the plastic from it, gpu was at 55c while playing overwatch at 1500mhz.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

The 360 rad is not enough?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It does vary on components used in the loop. Too get the most efficient cooling a single 360 might not be enough, if you are using higher end parts with OC.
Adding a 2nd rad in front will help maintain a lower temps overall. A 280 in front would be a nice addition.

I would go into the CPU first, instead of GPU. The warmer coolant coming from GPU is going into CPU, which will raise your CPU temps.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

But if i go cpu first the gpu will be way too hot, I thought its gonna be like 40gpu and 50 cpu but this is ridiculous.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Watercooling is just snap I get these temps. You need to try different variation too see what suits your needs. It is trial and error.
Also your ambient temps can affect watercooling.

GPU can handle the temps much better than CPU.
You want the GPU going into the Res and rad into CPU.

Here is an idea on a loop, GPU going in the res.


----------



## tongerks

thanks a lot guys, im going to h240x2







and will try to change the fittings to compression's


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> But if i go cpu first the gpu will be way too hot, I thought its gonna be like 40gpu and 50 cpu but this is ridiculous.


Oh, so you thought that a single 360 on a highly OC'd 6700K and 980 Ti would turn the TIM to solder on the 6700K, and make the 980 Ti dissipate the same amount of heat as a stock 980. Got it.

You are undersized on the rad to get those types of temps with these particular components. The OC'd 980 Ti dumps a ton of heat into the loop.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I quess I overestimated the coolingcapacity of the unit, I mean it works nicely and isnt loud I just dont like the temps. Do you think a 280 infront a thicker one would improve the temps significantly? And I should order some clu and delid the cpu aswell.
I thought I might of done something terribly wrong but if an expert like u thinks temps like these are to be expected.
Thought process was it's just 1 cpu ang gpu.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I quess I overestimated the coolingcapacity of the unit, I mean it works nicely and isnt loud I just dont like the temps. Do you think a 280 infront a thicker one would improve the temps significantly? And I should order some clu and delid the cpu aswell.
> I thought I might of done something terribly wrong but if an expert like u thinks temps like these are to be expected.
> Thought process was it's just 1 cpu ang gpu.


Actually, you are underestimating the heat output of your components, and just how bad the TIM is on your CPU. It's hard to think of an OC'd GTX 980 Ti as just one GPU in this case. While they aren't as bad as a 290X, they are serious heat producers. Then throw in the OC on the CPU....

While the temps you are getting are fine, they could be lower, and adding a rad will help in your case. You may *never* get those particular components at those clocks down to 40 and 50C respectively with *any* loop, but more rad is going to help. Something like an HWL 280 GTS in the front would certainly make a nice difference.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Well, first off the component order in your loop doesn't matter all that much. The water is circulating fast enough that the whole loop heats up and there aren't massive differences in the water temp between say the cpu and gpu so changing cpu or gpu first isn't going to solve your problem.

Secondly, a 360 rad has the ability to dissipate roughly 250watts with fans at 1800rpm and maintain an acceptable deltaT (the difference between water temp and the ambient temp). Your system requires 450watts or more of cooling ability so your loop most likely has a dT of greater than 20C which means its under powered. There are estimator spreadsheets somewhere on this site (one of the water cooling forums) that help you plan a loop that has enough radiator to handle the components in the system, check them out and you won't have to guess at what you need.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Ha! Found them...here's a link, good read and the spreadsheets are at the end of the first post.

radiator-size-estimator


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks alot for help guys, I think my best bet is to find a 280 to fit infront of my case, dont have room for much else, can probably go pretty thick there lots of room.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thanks alot for help guys, I think my best bet is to find a 280 to fit infront of my case, dont have room for much else, can probably go pretty thick there lots of room.


I am also a fan of Hardware Labs, you can get a Black Ice Nemesis 280GTX Dual-Core Xtreme which is 47mm thick paired with some good fans in push/pull should work well.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I am also a fan of Hardware Labs, you can get a Black Ice Nemesis 280GTX Dual-Core Xtreme which is 47mm thick paired with some good fans in push/pull should work well.


Best 280mm on the market. But....it is *54mm thick*. The 47mm is just the core measurement.









Fire it up with some F140SP, Vardar or eLoops and all should be good.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Best 280mm on the market. But....it is *54mm thick*. The 47mm is just the core measurement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fire it up with some F140SP, Vardar or eLoops and all should be good.


I stand corrected sir.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

damn that`s expensive for a 280, you would think it would cost less since its smaller, but no, wich 280 would you go for from the www.highflow.nl page ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> damn that`s expensive for a 280, you would think it would cost less since its smaller, but no, wich 280 would you go for from the www.highflow.nl page ?


I am very partial to HWL for a number of reasons, and would go with the 280 GTS were it my rig and I needed to save a few dollars. The Alphacool XT45 or EK CE 280mm are good choices for less, also.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Good choice, you'll essentially double your radiator surface area with that one. Water cooling is a never-ending rabbit hole, a little planning goes a long way. As good as these AIO kits are getting I've taken my loop out and just using a Corsair 240 AIO on my 4790k (lapped and delidded) CPU and my Swiftech H240 on the Titan X. Works wonderfully, quiet and tons of OC room with temps pretty much the same as when I had a full loop.

I'm not familiar with the 6700k but those temps do seem high even if your dT is up there...maybe try re-mounting just in case? If you're ordering stuff anyway pick up the arctic silver cleaning kit to prep cpu and waterblock, use good TIM (my preference is Gelid but EK, AS, etc are pretty comparable) and carefully re-mount the CPU block.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I usually use isopropyl alcohol to clean my cpu and blocks before mounting so I quess im good there, originally I was thinking about the EK CE280 but its out of stock in the places I usually order from, and as you mentioned the XT45 or 280 GTS I looked over those aswell, and by no means is radiator thickness the only measure of performance, but I have a feeling that the XT45 being almost 1.5cm thicker will perform better, no ?
And about the reapplication of CPU tim, I ran out of tube, so I cant really take it all apart and put it back together right now , or is using the same tube twice acceptable ?


----------



## SynchroSCP

No, don't re-use the TIM...always good to have some TIM on hand, just got some GELID extreme from Amazon for $10 if I remember correctly. Isopropyl is fine as long as its the 90% stuff, the 70% or worse from the grocery store isn't nearly as good and can leave residue. Also don't use paper towels either when cleaning, coffee filters work well and less likely to leave bits. Thats what works well for me anyway, sometimes a mount just doesn't go well for whatever reason and has to be reset. You had one core that seems slightly higher than the others as well, could be the TIM inside the cpu which is not uncommon and a much tougher fix if you're really going to get everything as low as possible.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I have never thought reusing tim, I mean i ran out of tubing to make another run differently so im stuck with the one I have for now, using noctua NT-H1 tim btw.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I usually use isopropyl alcohol to clean my cpu and blocks before mounting so I quess im good there, originally I was thinking about the EK CE280 but its out of stock in the places I usually order from, and as you mentioned the XT45 or 280 GTS I looked over those aswell, and by no means is radiator thickness the only measure of performance, but I have a feeling that the XT45 being almost 1.5cm thicker will perform better, no ?
> And about the reapplication of CPU tim, I ran out of tube, so I cant really take it all apart and put it back together right now , or is using the same tube twice acceptable ?


Wait....are you asking if you can use a tube of TIM twice to do a second application? As in, you applied TIM, put the top on the tube, and then want to use TIM from that tube again? The answer to that is yes.

Or are you asking if you can re-use TIM that has been already used on a component? That answer is no.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I was trying to explain why I cant reapply the TIM, that`s because i dont have any tube left to take the loop apart and use fresh tubing

tube= tubing


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I was trying to explain why I cant reapply the TIM, that`s because i dont have any tube left to take the loop apart and use fresh tubing
> 
> tube= tubing


Got it. But.....didn't you just fill this a couple of days ago? No reason to replace tubing that new. And I would highly, highly doubt that changing the TIM would have any affect on your temps. The temps you are getting are normal for the components involved. I was going to ask why people always say "check your TIM" when it clearly has nothing to do with the issue, then I answered my own question....


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yes the tubing is only a few days old, but I didnt know if you can reuse it because the rings leave some grooves on the tube, but I quess it`s all good, I`ll keep an eye out for a used rad perhhaps I can find a good deal, and if I`m gonna add some new fans going with vardars should be a good idea, dont really think the helix ones are that great.
Or maybe the F140SP you mentioned.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Sorry, misunderstood as well. Yep, as long as the tubing is in good shape it can be re-used.

I've got a 30mm alphacool 240 I'm not using, you're welcome to it if you'd like. What size tubing are you using? I've got bunches of fittings as well and maybe could hook you up.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

That would be awesome but the problem is I live in northern europe so getting it here would cost alot, thats nice of you to offer tho, and for some reason when I play the division, or doom, the GPU temps tend to stay in the 45c range wich is not that bad, I am using some strange tubing because I got a bunch of fittings for cheap it`s 13/19mm tubing 1/2" - 3/4".
Also I think the main problem is the bad TIM under the CPU ihs, since, CPU temps seem to jump around alot from 50 to 59 in 1 second and such jumps wich I havent seen before.

And I dont know if it has anything to do with GPU temps but 144hz 1440p monitor might heat up the card more than a 60hz be it 1080p or 1440p unless you dont use vsync.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I would recheck the mounting on the CPU to be sure you are getting good contact.
You might need to change the orientation of cpu block so hoses are left/right. It can be sometimes the CPU could be concave, convex or flat. Same with CPU block.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Even the fillport is hot and so are all the fittings, it must really be lack of radiator space to cool all that down, water must be getting pretty toasty.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Yeah, thats got to be the issue. The loop is still removing heat from the components but can't get rid of enough heat to cool properly so the water temp rises which transfers to the parts connected like the fillport.


----------



## bluedevil

Kinda a crude pic but I kinda like this little H220-X I picked up used here on OCN....hooked it up to one of my VisionTek R9 290 CyroVenoms.


----------



## Streetdragon

are that the old tubing that start to flake the water with tha plastik-thing? Replace for clear one!^^


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> are that the old tubing that start to flake the water with tha plastik-thing? Replace for clear one!^^


The unit pictured is using the plasticizer free tubing. In terms of maintenance, it is far better than the clear.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The unit pictured is using the plasticizer free tubing. In terms of maintenance, it is far better than the clear.


I picked it up for a side project I am gonna do soon...


----------



## Gdourado

Just out of curiosity, how does the pump on an H220-X or X2 compare to a XSPC D5?

Cheers!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how does the pump on an H220-X or X2 compare to a XSPC D5?
> 
> Cheers!


It is closest to a D5 Vario on Setting 3, if you are familiar with this context.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how does the pump on an H220-X or X2 compare to a XSPC D5?
> 
> Cheers!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is closest to a D5 Vario on Setting 3, if you are familiar with this context.


I would say more like a D5 PWM capped at ~2500 rpm, since XSPC uses a PWM D5









The point being, the Swiftech pump moves approximately 1gpm with 2.2m of head pressure. The D5 is capable of moving twice the amount of liquid with twice the amount of pressure at it's maximum. In a smaller loop (up to 3 blocks), the difference would be negligible, if anything at all. As the loop size increases, the D5 would become advantageous.


----------



## VSG

XSPC has D5 Varios also I thought? Either way, that should suffice


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So I managed to get an alphacool XT45 280mm on the cheap to help my temperatures, but before I go and redo the loop, in what order would you reccomend doing things ?
Right now it`s from the pump to the gpu and onwards, or is it largely irrelevant, because the water heats up eventually as someone said. The 280 will go infront of the case









Also a question about the coolant, atm I am running just pure distilled water with no additives, the only thing they have in stock at the store next door is
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/water-additives/ready-to-use/10545/phobya-zuperzero-clear-1000ml
Is that okay or would you just run distilled water with no additives ?


----------



## MadGoat

Somehow I think I need a new rotor/impeller? It is off balance and making all this terrible rattling. Is it possible to get another one of those?


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I managed to get an alphacool XT45 280mm on the cheap to help my temperatures, but before I go and redo the loop, in what order would you reccomend doing things ?
> Right now it`s from the pump to the gpu and onwards, or is it largely irrelevant, because the water heats up eventually as someone said. The 280 will go infront of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a question about the coolant, atm I am running just pure distilled water with no additives, the only thing they have in stock at the store next door is
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/water-additives/ready-to-use/10545/phobya-zuperzero-clear-1000ml
> Is that okay or would you just run distilled water with no additives ?


My loop goes H240-X->CPU->Radiator->GPU-> and back to H240-X
but h240->radiator->cpu->Gpu is ok too. not so much differenz

i would say, take some ready to go mixes. but im just lazy^^


----------



## jincuteguy

Does Swiftech have anything new for Computex this time? anyone knows?


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I managed to get an alphacool XT45 280mm on the cheap to help my temperatures, but before I go and redo the loop, in what order would you reccomend doing things ?
> Right now it`s from the pump to the gpu and onwards, or is it largely irrelevant, because the water heats up eventually as someone said. The 280 will go infront of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a question about the coolant, atm I am running just pure distilled water with no additives, the only thing they have in stock at the store next door is
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/water-additives/ready-to-use/10545/phobya-zuperzero-clear-1000ml
> Is that okay or would you just run distilled water with no additives ?


The order of components doesn't matter all that much, looks like going H240 -> CPU -> GPU -> Rad would be pretty simple in your loop.

You definitely want some biocide and a corrosion inhibitor in the water, I'm a big fan of Mayhems and their clear X1 would work well but there are many other good choices.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So having installed the Alphacool XT45 280 infront of the case, and still using the 140mm fractal casefans that came with it ( these are just what I had and probably close to useless for watercooling radiators), the temps improved somewhat on the CPU, I delided the CPU, applied CLU under the IHS and on between IHS and waterblock aswell. Went CPU-GPU-RAD-RAD from GPU-CPU-RAD.
Dont really know how much of the temperature difference was delidding and how much was the new rad. Dont really know where to go from here. Dont really feel spending any more money on this, since the temps I was hoping to get are out of reach.
GPU temps stay in late 40s and sometimes a few degrees over 50 when playing overwatch @ 1505 on the GPU.

And here is another question, I know that when you are using fans on radiators in PUSH they should be static pressure optimised fans, how about pull, does it matter aswell, or I can use any old fan without much of a temperature difference?
I was thinking maybe I should replace all the fans aswell, I know noctua is good, but I dont feel like paying the premium for them. Heard alot of good things about phanteks fans, perhaps 3x F120SP/MP and 3x F140SP/MP not sure wich ones to go for when I want silence and performance combined, not even sure if the performance I get from switching up the fans would be worth it.

H320X2 original:





H320X2 + Alphacool XT45 280 + delid + CLU:





Ran out of tubing there, so it will have to do, eventho it`s pretty ugly


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So having installed the Alphacool XT45 280......
> 
> And here is another question, I know that when you are using fans on radiators in PUSH they should be static pressure optimised fans, how about pull, does it matter aswell, or I can use any old fan without much of a temperature difference?
> I was thinking maybe I should replace all the fans aswell, I know noctua is good, but I dont feel like paying the premium for them. Heard alot of good things about phangeks fans, perhaps 3x F120SP/MP and 3x F140SP/MP not sure wich ones to go for when I want silence and performance combined, not even sure if the performance I get from switching up the fans would be worth it.


While static pressure and vacuum are not always proportionate....

You want the F120MP and F140MP for use on rads in either push or pull.

And, yes, those fans included with your Fractal case are _really_ poor performers on rads.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`ve used gentle typhoon AP-15 before years ago, and I really liked them, but unfortunately they go for a premium just about as much as the noctuas.
So what fans would you go for personally, vardars or MP from phanteks ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> And here is another question, I know that when you are using fans on radiators in PUSH they should be static pressure optimised fans, how about pull, does it matter aswell, or I can use any old fan without much of a temperature difference?
> I was thinking maybe I should replace all the fans aswell, I know noctua is good, but I dont feel like paying the premium for them. Heard alot of good things about phanteks fans, perhaps 3x F120SP/MP and 3x F140SP/MP not sure wich ones to go for when I want silence and performance combined, not even sure if the performance I get from switching up the fans would be worth it.
> :


Instead of thinking of it as static pressure rating, think of it as the maximum difference in pressure between the intake and exhaust sides of fan when fan stops flowing air. This is whay most fans can pull as well as they can push.

Don't forget that for fans to work their best on a radiator there needs to be a good seal between fan and radiator, because any air leaking between fan and radiator is lost airflow that should be flowing through the radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`ve used gentle typhoon AP-15 before years ago, and I really liked them, but unfortunately they go for a premium just about as much as the noctuas.
> So what fans would you go for personally, vardars or MP from phanteks ?


Hard to say. I haven't used the Vardars since the initial run, and that run had it's share of issues - which have have been corrected. I'm currently using 3 F120MP and two F140MP and am very happy with them, so not really thinking about getting more Vardars to compare.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks for sharing, I'll probably go for the phanteks ones aswell, they are also cheaper.


----------



## Streetdragon

What about the SP120 fans?


----------



## VSG

Don't bother unless you get a really good deal.


----------



## Streetdragon

i thought they are the best fans for a radiator^^


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Corsair would like you to think that, as with all of their products I quess


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i thought they are the best fans for a radiator^^


Not really. They are mostly replacing their fan series with ML Pro/LED, SP LED RGB and HD LED RGB fans anyway.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Corsair would like you to think that, as with all of their products I quess


can be^^ all tests and other forums said the same.... i have a radiator with 3 installed... so i have to buy the last one too for pushpull

now i know it better xD


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i thought they are the best fans for a radiator^^


Only if they are the only fans you can get. They are mediocre at best, and even that is being generous.


----------



## Streetdragon

do you have a cheap high performce fans to replace the SP120? im feeling myself a bit stupid now. Thought they are top of top.... so expensive-.-


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> do you have a cheap high performce fans to replace the SP120? im feeling myself a bit stupid now. Thought they are top of top.... so expensive-.-


If you already have bought them and are content with them, let it be. It's not worth spending more to replace all your fans if you weren't aware of any issues before you saw this thread


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I know it`s really hard to answer, but currently I have 3x helix 120mm fans on my 360 and 3x fractal GP14 fans on 280 and rear intake, those 3x F120MP + 3x F140MP will cost me like 100€ if im gonna get 2 degrees from it im not gonna bother.


----------



## s74r1

regarding push vs pull and static pressure;

some fans are better optimized for pushing rather than pulling (most Noctua for example I've heard don't handle restrictive intake too well). I don't have any hard data to back this up, however, but I'm sure there's tests around somewhere. If it's both push+pull I don't think it really matters much what type of pull fans you use.

I'd also recommend against cheap sleeve bearing or fancy-named bearing fans (enlobal, twister, UFB, etc) - I got tired of replacing noisy fans every 6-10 months. Horizontal orientation is the hardest on bearings too, but I've seen many cheaper fans become noisy even in vertical position.

I don't know what bearings the stock Helix fans use but one of mine came bad out of the box with leaking oil, and they don't seem to have well balanced blades either (which will put further strain on the bearing if it's wobbling).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I know it`s really hard to answer, but currently I have 3x helix 120mm fans on my 360 and 3x fractal GP14 fans on 280 and rear intake, those 3x F120MP + 3x F140MP will cost me like 100€ if im gonna get 2 degrees from it im not gonna bother.


The fans of larger concern are the two 140mm on the rad, the Helix do an adequate job on the H320. I would change those out and leave the others alone. That should net you a few degrees - not ten, a _few_, as in ~3-5.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Okay thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> regarding push vs pull and static pressure;
> 
> some fans are better optimized for pushing rather than pulling (most Noctua for example I've heard don't handle restrictive intake too well). I don't have any hard data to back this up, however, but I'm sure there's tests around somewhere. If it's both push+pull I don't think it really matters much what type of pull fans you use.


Yes, Nocs push better than pull, especially open blade designs. Cyclops has done extensive push/pull testing. Push scores slightly better .. making me wonder is something about his test procedure may be giving push a slight advantage .. but that's a guess.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks/0_20

Martin has done lots of fan tests too
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

@geggeg only does push testing at Thermalbench.









Please keep in mind a +/-1c margin of error is to be expected in most testing. This means 2c total difference before we can say for sure there is a difference in most testing. Extreme accuracy is +/-0.5c .. 1c total difference.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> regarding push vs pull and static pressure;
> 
> some fans are better optimized for pushing rather than pulling (most Noctua for example I've heard don't handle restrictive intake too well). I don't have any hard data to back this up, however, but I'm sure there's tests around somewhere. If it's both push+pull I don't think it really matters much what type of pull fans you use.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Nocs push better than pull, especially open blade designs. Cyclops has done extensive push/pull testing. Push scores slightly better .. making me wonder is something about his test procedure may be giving push a slight advantage .. but that's a guess.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks/0_20
> 
> Martin has done lots of fan tests too
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> 
> @geggeg only does push testing at Thermalbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please keep in mind a +/-1c margin of error is to be expected in most testing. This means 2c total difference before we can say for sure there is a difference in most testing. Extreme accuracy is +/-0.5c .. 1c total difference.
Click to expand...

good info, +rep

One thing I got out of that is that pull appears to have a slightly louder noise profile too - which makes sense since the intake is obstructed and messes with the airflow pattern that most fans are designed for. however it appears minor but it could make noise more audible to human ears as apposed to just a dB meter.

Also, as I've previously stated about horizontal vs vertical positioning - running fans upside down pushing up is especially rough on most bearings (a bit rougher than pushing down). the exception to this would probably be ball bearings, SSO/SSO2 bearings and *REAL* FDB bearings (many fakes, bad clones, and alternate out there). Edit: I'm sure there's other decent bearings too, just none I'm aware of in my limited experience.


----------



## SynchroSCP

I have cougar PWM's and am extremely happy with them, use them in pull and they perform really well. The only thing I hear with them is the air moving, no mech sound at all. Bit ugly with the orange silencer pads but those can be removed / replaced.

I'm a bit perplexed about what is going on with your system...added rad and delidded and your temps went up a bit. Looks like there's still air in your loop, is it bled thoroughly? Is your CPU OC'd and if so can you post a screenshot of GPU-Z while stress testing? What controller are you using for the fans and pump and what type of profile have you set up?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Emm my temps didnt go up they went down quite abit, during load its 1.312v on the cpu @ 4600 mhz, im using fixed rpm mode @ 1700rpm on the pump fans are hooked up to swifechs control board to, dont really want to go higher rpm on the pumps or fans because I dont really want to hear em.
I must say tho whenever Im gonna buy a new pc or make a new loop, it`s gonna be custom, bleeding and filling this swiftech is proper aids


----------



## SynchroSCP

My bad, looked like in the pics you posted the max temps were about 2 degrees higher, must have misunderstood. Glad its heading in the right direction.

Check out these fans, I use them and am extremely happy with them. Quiet and move a ton of air through the rads. Cougar Vortex PWM


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I already have some 2x F140MP in the mail, have to go pick em up


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I already have some 2x F140MP in the mail, have to go pick em up


You made the right choice for your application. The Cougars don't cope with the restrictive front intakes on the R5 well.


----------



## lukacsmw

I have an H320X2 Prestige. I've wired up an aftermarket swtich to control it outside my case, which works okay. Except I now have a corsair link module that can control RGB LED strips. I believe the standard corsair strips are 4 pin. Anyone figure out a way to access the RGB LEDs on the H320X2 (by pass the splitter module) so I can control them with my corsair commander-mini?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukacsmw*
> 
> I have an H320X2 Prestige. I've wired up an aftermarket swtich to control it outside my case, which works okay. Except I now have a corsair link module that can control RGB LED strips. I believe the standard corsair strips are 4 pin. Anyone figure out a way to access the RGB LEDs on the H320X2 (by pass the splitter module) so I can control them with my corsair commander-mini?


When the Prestige units came out Swiftech stated that you can use an external controller on the LEDs Though I have heard many people complain I have yet to see someone figure it out or even see it explained. Very few of the reviews mentions this is possible but I have yet to find any that explain how to do this.


----------



## Gdourado

Is the H240-X a good option to cool a 5960X?
And is it noticiable better than a Noctua NH-D15?

Cheers!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Is the H240-X a good option to cool a 5960X?
> And is it noticiable better than a Noctua NH-D15?
> 
> Cheers!


It depends on your OC. Stock or with a small OC, the performance difference will be negligible and the H240-X2 will be somewhat louder than the D15. The more you up the voltage and OC, the more performance increase you would see with the Swiftech - it will always be somewhat louder, but is capable of dissipating more heat.


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends on your OC. Stock or with a small OC, the performance difference will be negligible and the H240-X2 will be somewhat louder than the D15. The more you up the voltage and OC, the more performance increase you would see with the Swiftech - it will always be somewhat louder, but is capable of dissipating more heat.


If I inted to go for more than 1.2v, will the H240-X make a big difference?


----------



## Madmaxneo

So who here has some good advice on airflow for a phantom 820 case with a full window side panel? I changed out my old side panel with the fan for the full window side panel and my temps went up 5 degrees and between 10 to 12 degrees hotter during an intel burning test run.

I may refresh the thermal paste on my H240-X and see if that helps some but I may be getting a 320 Prestige soon if they become available at a good price......


----------



## MadGoat

So,

My H220 has rocked steady since 2013 and has finally given it up. The impeller "bushing" had worn to the point that it rattled on the spindle between the ceramic bearings and started making contact with the pump housing. After many emails with Swiftech inquiring about purchasing a replacement impeller, my only option is to buy a MCP50x pump and fit it on the H220 housing. (For $80) This has served me well, however wish Swiftech would consider selling parts for their equipment. Aside from it all, Swiftech customer service is TOP NOTCH and cannot say enough good things about how they treat their customers.

As it stands, I am in the market for a new water cooling solution.

(Sad to see the H220 go, it is a great cooler)

~MG~


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> So,
> 
> My H220 has rocked steady since 2013 and has finally given it up. The impeller "bushing" had worn to the point that it rattled on the spindle between the ceramic bearings and started making contact with the pump housing. After many emails with Swiftech inquiring about purchasing a replacement impeller, my only option is to buy a MCP50x pump and fit it on the H220 housing. (For $80) This has served me well, however wish Swiftech would consider selling parts for their equipment. Aside from it all, Swiftech customer service is TOP NOTCH and cannot say enough good things about how they treat their customers.
> 
> As it stands, I am in the market for a new water cooling solution.
> 
> (Sad to see the H220 go, it is a great cooler)
> 
> ~MG~


I see you are in the US, I have a H220-X that I recently retired. Still works great, I just went to an extremely small case and it doesn't fit. It has been thoroughly cleaned. If you are interested in a used one shoot me a pm.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So who here has some good advice on airflow for a phantom 820 case with a full window side panel? I changed out my old side panel with the fan for the full window side panel and my temps went up 5 degrees and between 10 to 12 degrees hotter during an intel burning test run.
> 
> I may refresh the thermal paste on my H240-X and see if that helps some but I may be getting a 320 Prestige soon if they become available at a good price......


With the phantom 820, how you set up the fans in the case will determine your airflow?
The 200mm fan is crap and you are stuck with it always as no other option.
You need to remove both HDD cages and add 2x140mm on the bottom intake. As a side note, I hated working on that case. Terrible cooling for a high price.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So who here has some good advice on airflow for a phantom 820 case with a full window side panel? I changed out my old side panel with the fan for the full window side panel and my temps went up 5 degrees and between 10 to 12 degrees hotter during an intel burning test run.
> 
> I may refresh the thermal paste on my H240-X and see if that helps some but I may be getting a 320 Prestige soon if they become available at a good price......


Sorry, but 820 was designed to look nice, not flow air. It's sad that most companies concentrate on looks and/or traditional design first and actual. airflow somewhere on down their priority list instead of starting with airflow and building looks to complement it.

As Sp33d Junki3 said, 200mm fans are not the best, but there are a few 180mm that do seem to be okay. Thermalbench (geggeg) has tested some.
http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/18/silverstone-fm181-180mm-fan/3/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the phantom 820, how you set up the fans in the case will determine your airflow?
> The 200mm fan is crap and you are stuck with it always as no other option.
> You need to remove both HDD cages and add 2x140mm on the bottom intake. As a side note, I hated working on that case. Terrible cooling for a high price.


I have two courgar vortex fanson the bottom and I disabled the most forward one with no ill effect on my temps whatsoever. If I remove the upper HDD cage where will I put my 4 drives at? I am not using the stock 200mm fan in the front, but I do not remember what it is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but 820 was designed to look nice, not flow air. It's sad that most companies concentrate on looks and/or traditional design first and actual. airflow somewhere on down their priority list instead of starting with airflow and building looks to complement it.
> 
> As Sp33d Junki3 said, 200mm fans are not the best, but there are a few 180mm that do seem to be okay. Thermalbench (geggeg) has tested some.
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/18/silverstone-fm181-180mm-fan/3/


Will a 180 mm fan fit in the front of this case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have two courgar vortex fanson the bottom and I disabled the most forward one with no ill effect on my temps whatsoever. If I remove the upper HDD cage where will I put my 4 drives at? I am not using the stock 200mm fan in the front, but I do not remember what it is.
> Will a 180 mm fan fit in the front of this case?


I don't know what the mount spacing is of case or what the different mount spacings are on 180 & 200mm fans.
What is the center to center mounting hole spacing of your fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You need to remove both HDD cages and add 2x140mm on the bottom intake. As a side note, I hated working on that case. Terrible cooling for a high price.


I have two courgar vortex fanson the bottom and I disabled the most forward one with no ill effect on my temps whatsoever. If I remove the upper HDD cage where will I put my 4 drives at? I am not using the stock 200mm fan in the front, but I do not remember what it is. [/quote]
How many HDD or SSD is it?
If the top drive cage is not removed, changing the front fan will do little. As it is filled and blocking all slots. The HDD cage can mount another fan in front that can be angled.
Mounting inside the ODD bay another fan, wont get much intake, but will help circulate airflow or but in there the HDD drives, as you can get mounting kits for them.


----------



## stephen427

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> 
> . Put some EKoolant pastel blue into my new H240 X2 prestige , lovin the look .


Hey. I just ordered the same cooler im just wondering how much dye did you add? Im thinking about doing same thing but in red as the liquid that comes included is somewhat transparant not the way i'd like it. The bottle you're describing has 250ml. I did some research 250ml you can mix with 750ml water.

Does anyone know this or how much to add? to an already prefilled cooler like this.

Im coming from a year old corsair H105. I dont really care if it doesn't last long im only getting this for the looks. Without the hassle of custom watercooling.


----------



## Nick-F

I took original liquid out and put pastel blue in , those dyes they give you stain everything .


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> Hey. I just ordered the same cooler im just wondering how much dye did you add? Im thinking about doing same thing but in red as the liquid that comes included is somewhat transparant not the way i'd like it. The bottle you're describing has 250ml. I did some research 250ml you can mix with 750ml water.
> 
> Does anyone know this or how much to add? to an already prefilled cooler like this.
> 
> Im coming from a year old corsair H105. I dont really care if it doesn't last long im only getting this for the looks. Without the hassle of custom watercooling.


sry that was a rushed post , I was trying not too die in game lol .

As you can see I have customised mine . It is very easy . just got some EKoolant pastel blue concentrate and some distilled water , and changed the tubing for EK Primochill . I put the original liquid into my old H240x when I sold it . I have not noticed any huge difference in temp , just looks better


----------



## stephen427

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> sry that was a rushed post , I was trying not too die in game lol .
> 
> As you can see I have customised mine . It is very easy . just got some EKoolant pastel blue concentrate and some distilled water , and changed the tubing for EK Primochill . I put the original liquid into my old H240x when I sold it . I have not noticed any huge difference in temp , just looks better


That looks really awesome dude! Great work. You inspire me to do a loop to new gpu one day.

I guess in my case I wont need distilled water for now. I'll just add the dye ti'll it looks like the red that I want it to be.

I mean the orginal liquid is already distilled water so theres no need for me to add more of that right.


----------



## Nick-F

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> That looks really awesome dude! Great work. You inspire me to do a loop to new gpu one day.
> 
> I guess in my case I wont need distilled water for now. I'll just add the dye ti'll it looks like the red that I want it to be.
> 
> I mean the orginal liquid is already distilled water so theres no need for me to add more of that right.


Yes I think it is more than just distilled water , it has the required additives ( anti corrosion , anti algae etc ) .
I do recommend either EKoolant liquid or Mayhems , if you decide to go pastel ( they even do UV reactive liquids ) .
Thanks for the compliment , most kind of you


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I have two courgar vortex fanson the bottom and I disabled the most forward one with no ill effect on my temps whatsoever. If I remove the upper HDD cage where will I put my 4 drives at? I am not using the stock 200mm fan in the front, but I do not remember what it is.
> How many HDD or SSD is it?
> If the top drive cage is not removed, changing the front fan will do little. As it is filled and blocking all slots. The HDD cage can mount another fan in front that can be angled.
> Mounting inside the ODD bay another fan, wont get much intake, but will help circulate airflow or but in there the HDD drives, as you can get mounting kits for them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have two SSDs, two HDDs, a blu ray drive, and the Asus OC panel is occupying one external drive bay, which leaves two external drive bays open. I was thinking of mounting one or two 80mm fans in the remaining drive bays to help with air circulation but am not sure if that will help any.
As I mentioned (at least I think I did) I have a 140mm fan in that angled slot directly in front of the drive bays.

My other options are to add a slim 120mm fan behind the cpu after cutting out the hole in the door panel and/or cutting out a hole in the full window and adding a fan to that. I would rather not have to cut a hole in the full window because it looks really good as it is now and I don't want to spoil the view....lol.


----------



## stephen427

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Yes I think it is more than just distilled water , it has the required additives ( anti corrosion , anti algae etc ) .
> I do recommend either EKoolant liquid or Mayhems , if you decide to go pastel ( they even do UV reactive liquids ) .
> Thanks for the compliment , most kind of you


Sorry for asking again I'm really new to this whole water thing. I did order Ekoolant thought so you're saying that I need to drain it first? And use distilled water with my dye. Or can I just use the Ekoolant with the existing liquid in there beceuse that would be easier..

Nevermind I'm stupid like you said it already has anti corrosive / anti algae in there most likely so I'll just add my dye to it. I'll likely be changing it anyway within a year when 1080ti comes out. Can't wait to do same as you! It looks so good man.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I was hoping the pump would quiet down when the loop has been runnin for a week but I can still constantly hear it eventho its running 1500 rpm hell even at the lowest 1200 its audible, is that normal? Dont think there is any air bubbles, but I quess it`s to be expected that it cant be totally inaudible.


----------



## paskowitz

Quick question, would a H240X pump be able to push through a CPU, GPU, mobo VRM and and a Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Slim rad (280mm)? Right now I don't have the VRMs in the loop and am running a 140mm rad. Would the VRM and extra 140mm of rad be pushing the limit?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick question, would a H240X pump be able to push through a CPU, GPU, mobo VRM and and a Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Slim rad (280mm)? Right now I don't have the VRMs in the loop and am running a 140mm rad. Would the VRM and extra 140mm of rad be pushing the limit?


Not a problem at all. You really aren't adding anything restrictive.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So having switched from 2x random fractal 140mm casefan to 2x F140MP on my 280rad, temps stayed exactly the same, not a single degree better, 40€ well spent


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So having switched from 2x random fractal 140mm casefan to 2x F140MP on my 280rad, temps stayed exactly the same, not a single degree better, 40€ well spent


That's odd. As initially stated, the difference wouldn't be dramatic, but there should be at least a couple of degrees difference. Have you set up the fan curves?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

There is no curve, it stays right where I can barely hear it and that`s 1500rpm, anything higher is of no use since I dont want to hear it.
But since I have all the h320x2 fans and casefans plugged to cpu and cpu_opt they all run off the percentage of the pump-s rpm wich is set to 1500


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> There is no curve, it stays right where I can barely hear it and that`s 1500rpm, anything higher is of no use since I dont want to hear it.
> But since I have all the h320x2 fans and casefans plugged to cpu and cpu_opt they all run off the percentage of the pump-s rpm wich is set to 1500


Ah, so, basically you are replacing limited airflow with the same limited airflow. Where you would see the difference is in higher rpm. Using the same amount of airflow through a rad won't change the performance regardless of what fan is producing the airflow. The pump being at it's minimum isn't helping your cause, either.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I tried them full speed, no thanks, way way to loud for my taste.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I tried them full speed, no thanks, way way to loud for my taste.


No one said to use them at full speed. There are places between "all" and "nothing". Those places can be set up to meet the demands of the system in the way that suits you best.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I fail to see how fan curve would help me, over a fixed RPM of wich is the maximum noise level I can tolerate? ( wich is barely audible )


----------



## Scrimstar

Will this fit and help in the H320x2

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/


----------



## Nick-F

I would say you do not need it if you have good quality coolant ( Mayhems , EKollant , etc )


----------



## Scrimstar

I kinda want to get a pearl pastel, they look so awesome

3.25mm is smaller than the hole right? silver coil looks kinda big to be 3.25mm wide


----------



## Nick-F

yes 3.25 mm is only about 1/8th of an inch .  As you can see I agree with you about the Pastel coolant , mine is the EK Ekoolant pastel blue .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Will this fit and help in the H320x2
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/


You would only need a coil if you are running straight distilled water.

Pearl pastel? If you are talking about Aurora, I would suggest you read the Aurora Wiki. It is made for show use a day or two at a time.


----------



## Scrimstar

I would probably have to empty the propylene glycol coolant mix, and clean all of it right; if I wanted to use pastel concentrate. (don't know how to clean it)

I don't know what is a good mix. I want something that is white (maybe teal), and won't need much maintenance.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-uv-white.html#Specifications


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> I would probably have to empty the propylene glycol coolant mix, and clean all of it right; if I wanted to use pastel concentrate. (don't know how to clean it)
> 
> I don't know what is a good mix. I want something that is white (maybe teal), and won't need much maintenance.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-uv-white.html#Specifications


low maintenence and dyes are two words that are not synonymous....dyes break down over heating and cooling cycles and clog things up...they must be maintained more often than say distilled with colored tubing....also be careful of the dyes you use as swiftechs warranty doesn't cover certain ones


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> I don't know what is a good mix. I want something that is white (maybe teal), and won't need much maintenance.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-uv-white.html#Specifications


Liquid cooling is not a great hobby for doing things without doing any research. Simply reading the web you linked tells you that you are getting 12 mo max out of it. Pastels have the highest maintenance of the coolants, and dyes in general are far higher maintenance than clears. Also, as @mfknjadagr8 pointed out, Swiftech will not warranty anything if you put pastel in it - draining it before you send it in won't help if you think you can fool them, since the pastel will stain the components.


----------



## Nick-F

Get the EK Koolant concentrate and some distilled water ( NOT DE-IONISED WATER ) the coolant will have instructions on what mix you will need . Pastel liquids don't have dyes in them , the Nano particles are coloured . Mayhems make a very good cleaning fluid kit , but as your unit is reasonably new , just make a mix of 20% vinegar to 80% water . Run this in your loop for about 2 hrs ,then flush this out with plain water . Then fill with your coloured pastel mix And do the usual 8 hr leak test run .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick-F*
> 
> Get the EK Koolant concentrate and some distilled water ( NOT DE-IONISED WATER ) the coolant will have instructions on what mix you will need . Pastel liquids don't have dyes in them , the Nano particles are coloured . Mayhems make a very good cleaning fluid kit , but as your unit is reasonably new , just make a mix of 20% vinegar to 80% water . Run this in your loop for about 2 hrs ,then flush this out with plain water . Then fill with your coloured pastel mix And do the usual 8 hr leak test run .


You left out the last part of the instructions: Void your warranty by using a coolant Swiftech *specifically* named as incompatible with the pump.


----------



## Scrimstar

sorry to say, but i dont wanna do any custom dyes; sounds too headache inducing and tedious... im a bit too much of a beginner to try

would the mayhem dyes that came with it also increase maintenance?? my unit is still brandnew uninstalled


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> sorry to say, but i dont wanna do any custom dyes; sounds too headache inducing and tedious... im a bit too much of a beginner to try
> 
> would the mayhem dyes that came with it also increase maintenance?? my unit is still brandnew uninstalled


Not to sound mean, but if 30 minutes a year to do maintenance is an issue, you are probably better off with an air cooler.


----------



## Scrimstar

too bad i already have it

air coolers need just as that much replacing paste anyways.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> too bad i already have it
> 
> air coolers need just as that much replacing paste anyways.


Then there is your answer. Just don't do anything silly like putting in dyes that are stated as being incompatible, or running maple syrup as a coolant and all will be fine.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not to sound mean, but if 30 minutes a year to do maintenance is an issue, you are probably better off with an air cooler.


I at least do that much without using pastels or dyes , so I would think pastels and dyes require more than that. I do not want to use pastels or dyes because they do increase maintenance and they have a bad reputation of reducing the life of the loop they are in.


----------



## doyll

I have a question for all you Swiftech gurus, do all Hxxx X2 series have LED switch on the fan power hub, or is it only the Prestige models?
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2807132/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL

Quick Installation Guide say nothing about it only being Prestige models, but someone wiht prestige is saying it is only prestige.
http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have a question for all you Swiftech gurus, do all Hxxx X2 series have LED switch on the fan power hub, or is it only the Prestige models?
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2807132/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
> 
> Quick Installation Guide say nothing about it only being Prestige models, but someone wiht prestige is saying it is only prestige.
> http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/Quick%20Installation%20Guide%20Hxx2%20series.pdf


All X2 models comes with the new splitter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> All X2 models comes with the new splitter.


Thanks!








That was what I believed, but wanted to be sure.


----------



## santanag23

Hello everyone. I've been searching everywhere and can't seem to get an answer. Does anybody know if the h220-x2 presige would fit in a corsair 250d? Thank you in advance!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *santanag23*
> 
> Hello everyone. I've been searching everywhere and can't seem to get an answer. Does anybody know if the h220-x2 presige would fit in a corsair 250d? Thank you in advance!


I know the original H220 fits, that will vary on the mobo used.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1466042/corsair-obsidian-250d-club/2350_50#post_24210822


----------



## Comp4k

Blegh, after 1 year my H240-X pump has died









Onto my 3rd RMA now...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I know the original H220 fits, that will vary on the mobo used.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1466042/corsair-obsidian-250d-club/2350_50#post_24210822


To clarify, it is "H220 X", not "H220"
While I know you know this, someone else may not.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Blegh, after 1 year my H240-X pump has died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Onto my 3rd RMA now...


Sounds like your luck is about as good as getting struck by lighting while being bitten by a shark.








That or your have tornado funnels hovering over you at all times .. I suppose thee is always the chance you are doing something wrong.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So having switched from 2x random fractal 140mm casefan to 2x F140MP on my 280rad, temps stayed exactly the same, not a single degree better, 40€ well spent


And this is why I don't recommend 140 fans. There is few on the market worth anything for water cooling and imo the 120s out blow them out of the water. If you insist on 140s get 120 to 140 adapters. Also if you are going to insist on such low speeds you will want more then the minimum amount of rad.....


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To clarify, it is "H220 X", not "H220"
> While I know you know this, someone else may not.


Thank ks that was a typo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And this is why I don't recommend 140 fans. There is few on the market worth anything for water cooling and imo the 120s out blow them out of the water. If you insist on 140s get 120 to 140 adapters. Also if you are going to insist on such low speeds you will want more then the minimum amount of rad.....


You need to read next several posts below the post of outofmyheadyo you replied to.
He replaced 140mm fans with 140mm fans that perform the same at 1500rpm, so of course there is no improvement.

You are out of this world thinking 120mm fan on adapters to 140mm radiator will out perform 140mm fans of same design. If this was even remotely true 140mm radiators and air coolers and case vents and case fans would not be replacing older designed 120mm systems.

While there have been a few reports showing 120mm fans giving better temps on 140mm radiators, they do not do a true 'A' to 'B' fan comparison.

What they do is have a 140mm mounted tight against radiator compared to a 120mm fan spaced off of radiator.

Other testing has shown that mounting a fan tight against a radiator versus mounting it on a shroud spacing it way from radiator improves performance.

What you are doing is comparing the juice squeezed from large oranges to the just squeezed from small oranges with some lemon juice added and saying the juice from the large oranges is sweeter .. when both oranges give the same sweetness, it's the lemon that is changing things.









But you are correct about more radiator area to compensate for lower air speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to read next several posts below the post of outofmyheadyo you replied to.
> He replaced 140mm fans with 140mm fans that perform the same at 1500rpm, so of course there is no improvement.
> 
> You are out of this world thinking 120mm fan on adapters to 140mm radiator will out perform 140mm fans of same design. If this was even remotely true 140mm radiators and air coolers and case vents and case fans would not be replacing older designed 120mm systems.
> 
> While there have been a few reports showing 120mm fans giving better temps on 140mm radiators, they do not do a true 'A' to 'B' fan comparison.
> 
> What they do is have a 140mm mounted tight against radiator compared to a 120mm fan spaced off of radiator.
> 
> Other testing has shown that mounting a fan tight against a radiator versus mounting it on a shroud spacing it way from radiator improves performance.
> 
> What you are doing is comparing the juice squeezed from large oranges to the just squeezed from small oranges with some lemon juice added and saying the juice from the large oranges is sweeter .. when both oranges give the same sweetness, it's the lemon that is changing things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you are correct about more radiator area to compensate for lower air speed.


You misread - he is running the _pump_ at 1500 rpm, the fans far lower - I hate to assume, but I would imagine they are ~800 rpm (or lower) given the scenario he has described. Hard to make huge temp differences with fans you keep locked at minimum rpm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You misread - he is running the _pump_ at 1500 rpm, the fans far lower - I hate to assume, but I would imagine they are ~800 rpm (or lower) given the scenario he has described. Hard to make huge temp differences with fans you keep locked at minimum rpm.


My bad. I was going off of Mega Man's claims of 120mm outblowing 140mm fans.









Maybe120mm fan are better somewhere in the twilight zone of altered reality.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like your luck is about as good as getting struck by lighting while being bitten by a shark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That or your have tornado funnels hovering over you at all times .. I suppose thee is always the chance you are doing something wrong.


Tornados as in Nightwatch dark vortex's?


----------



## Comp4k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like your luck is about as good as getting struck by lighting while being bitten by a shark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That or your have tornado funnels hovering over you at all times .. I suppose thee is always the chance you are doing something wrong.


Well, it stopped working all of a sudden =/ I'm glad I was at my desk and shut it down in time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Well, it stopped working all of a sudden =/ I'm glad I was at my desk and shut it down in time.


Indeed!
Normally the system will self-throttle and shut itself off it it get too warm.

But with your luck ...
Well .. If you were standing on a beach 10 meters from the water and there were whales or sharks about and someone wanted to bet you were safe I would be inclined to bet you were not.

Have you thought of getting a job in a casino? The employ people who's luck is so bad that when they set down along side of a player on a winning streak the player's streak ends. They call them 'coolers'.








Honest! I'm as serious as a heat attack!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What would you reccomend adding to this, to make it easier to fill/bleed/drain ? Right now I was using the fillport on the swiftech rad, but it`s a proper nightmare.

I was thinking about adding a 90° adapter and Ball valve + plug, to make the angle more approachable and handy to close/open to the fillport on the swiftech.
But perhaps it`s better to add a Y splitter+ball valve+plug to the intake of the front rad since it`s the lowest part of the loop.


----------



## NIK1

Has anyone compared the performance of the H240x and the H240x prestige. My H240x is around a year old, and working good ,just wondering if I should upgrade if there is a big boost in cooling over the standard 240x...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone compared the performance of the H240x and the H240x prestige. My H240x is around a year old, and working good ,just wondering if I should upgrade if there is a big boost in cooling over the standard 240x...


Performance is similar and not one you can notice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone compared the performance of the H240x and the H240x prestige. My H240x is around a year old, and working good ,just wondering if I should upgrade if there is a big boost in cooling over the standard 240x...


I'm assuming you have the original H240 X. H240 X2 is as already said, basically the same cooler with basically the same performance.

Standard, using barb fittings and Swiftech® Helix™ fans, or
Prestige, using Swiftech® Lok Seal™ black chrome compression fittings and Noiseblocker™ NB-eLoop fans.

They claim "A fully redesigned patent-pending radiator/reservoir/pump combo featuring a large clear acrylic reservoir of tubular shape, and showing the inner workings of the system's powerful pump." but my gut feeling is the 'redesign' is more the reservoir than anything else .. because it is the only thing they comment on as being different.
Radiator & pump on X are MCR-X20 Drive series of radiators and X2 has some minor improvements.
Waterblock on X is Apogee XL and X2 has newer Apogee™ XL2. But base plate is the same, they only changed the housing in-let and out-let port to "improve the restriction".
So like we are saying, mostly cosmetic changes except for Noiseblocker NB-eLoop fans on Prestige model.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Has anyone compared the performance of the H240x and the H240x prestige. My H240x is around a year old, and working good ,just wondering if I should upgrade if there is a big boost in cooling over the standard 240x...


The only performance difference would be due to the fans. So, no, not a big boost. Maybe a few degrees under the heaviest extended loads with the fans at full speed. Essentially nothing in normal operation, but the eLoops might be a touch quieter.


----------



## paskowitz

I asked Swiftech and they said it was A-OK, but I figured I would double check here. Can I use the two BOTTOM ports on the H240X as the in/out of my loop, closing off the top port (above the pump, res side)? I wouldn't assume this would create a problem, but I don't know how the internals of the H240X are laid out.


----------



## Mega Man

If u understand you correctly you mean you don't want to use the fill port

That is fine and intended
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You misread - he is running the _pump_ at 1500 rpm, the fans far lower - I hate to assume, but I would imagine they are ~800 rpm (or lower) given the scenario he has described. Hard to make huge temp differences with fans you keep locked at minimum rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> My bad. I was going off of Mega Man's claims of 120mm outblowing 140mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe120mm fan are better somewhere in the twilight zone of altered reality.
Click to expand...

Hi.
I would like to introduce you to my friends.










And if that isn't enough










Please feel free to come talk to me when you have a 140 that can touch these. The closest you have is the vardars.

Also to note I was including NOISE in my "out blowing" not just performance

I am correct. Not just in rad sizing

120s are far more evolved then 140s esp concerning decent rad fans ( pq curves and noise patterns )


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If u understand you correctly you mean you don't want to use the fill port
> 
> That is fine and intended
> Hi.
> I would like to introduce you to my friends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if that isn't enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please feel free to come talk to me when you have a 140 that can touch these. The closest you have is the vardars.
> 
> Also to note I was including NOISE in my "out blowing" not just performance
> 
> I am correct. Not just in rad sizing
> 
> 120s are far more evolved then 140s esp concerning decent rad fans ( pq curves and noise patterns )


What are the 'specs' of your little buddies?


----------



## Mega Man

Look them up. Gts are probably the easiest fan to find then on. But again gts have a distinct sound profile that most people prefer over a normal fan.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The only performance difference would be due to the fans. So, no, not a big boost. Maybe a few degrees under the heaviest extended loads with the fans at full speed. Essentially nothing in normal operation, but the eLoops might be a touch quieter.


Where can I get a pair of those Noiseblocker- NB-eLoop fans that is on the 240 prestige. Does swiftech sell them. Also,what is the rpm's compared to the 240 mm Helix fans.


----------



## navit

Does anyone here own a corsair 600 c case? If so how did you place your rad? I am having trouble fitting my video card due to the pump. Has anybody put one of these units, H220-X2 Prestige, on the bottom of a case?
My sig will tell you what I own.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Look them up. Gts are probably the easiest fan to find then on. But again gts have a distinct sound profile that most people prefer over a normal fan.


So because you like GTs you go 'fanboy fanatic' and claim they are better than any 140mm fan.








I like GTs too, but I'm not a 'fanboy fanatic' so I'm not going to cliam they are better than anything else.


----------



## Mega Man

... show me a review that says different. It isn't fanboi it is fact, and has been for far too long. The reasons gts are so amazing is they were purposely designed. Which takes an extreme amount of r and d

Most are not willing to do this. Nidec did. That is what made gts get to the sought after level they are at.

But nidec makes motors for corporations (ie rebrand/or large orders ) so they did the research


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Does anyone here own a corsair 600 c case? If so how did you place your rad? I am having trouble fitting my video card due to the pump. Has anybody put one of these units, H220-X2 Prestige, on the bottom of a case?
> My sig will tell you what I own.


Just got the 600c? Have you tried move the GPU to another slot?
Can also rotate H220-X2 so the pump is lower, but you wont see the res at all.
Bottom mounting is possible, but wont recommend it.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Just got the 600c? Have you tried move the GPU to another slot?
> Can also rotate H220-X2 so the pump is lower, but you wont see the res at all.
> Bottom mounting is possible, but wont recommend it.


I moved the the gpu to the top slot and it is almost touching the top, as in I cant even see the fans anymore. Cant be good for long term and it Barley fit there.
I measured for everything but that stupid GPU before I got the case, got everything in and wired up then went for the gpu and was like &%#[email protected]#$$%


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Being that close to the top with little no no airflow will starve the GPU, you will see higher temps, with your GPU. As it is not blower type.
The Air540 is a better case if cooling is important. If you plan to expand the loop to include the GPU 600C is ok.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Being that close to the top with little no no airflow will starve the GPU, you will see higher temps, with your GPU. As it is not blower type.
> The Air540 is a better case if cooling is important. If you plan to expand the loop to include the GPU 600C is ok.


Yea I agree with you there, The 540 is a great case for cooling but it was a little loud and I needed a change. The 600c is a lot less noisy with the same fans.
Not sure What I am going to do, the Lightning is 11.5 inches and I only have 11 max to work with. If I could mount on the bottom all would be fine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... show me a review that says different. It isn't fanboi it is fact, and has been for far too long. The reasons gts are so amazing is they were purposely designed. Which takes an extreme amount of r and d
> 
> Most are not willing to do this. Nidec did. That is what made gts get to the sought after level they are at.
> 
> But nidec makes motors for corporations (ie rebrand/or large orders ) so they did the research


You make the claim GT is better than any 140mm fan. That lays the burden of proof on you mate.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If u understand you correctly you mean you don't want to use the fill port
> 
> That is fine and intended
> Hi.
> I would like to introduce you to my friends.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if that isn't enough
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please feel free to come talk to me when you have a 140 that can touch these. The closest you have is the vardars.
> Also to note I was including NOISE in my "out blowing" not just performance
> I am correct. Not just in rad sizing
> 120s are far more evolved then 140s esp concerning decent rad fans ( pq curves and noise patterns )


What fans are those?


----------



## Mega Man

Nidec gentle typhoons they come in black to 5


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nidec gentle typhoons they come in black to 5


What is "black to 5"?

Also I found a couple different versions, a 1850 and a 2150 RPM. Which one do you have?


----------



## Mega Man

i have several

the 5 is from FFS ( fat finger syndrome aka a typo )


----------



## paskowitz

Can I use the two BOTTOM ports on the H240X as the in/out of my loop, closing off the top port (above the pump, res side)?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Can I use the two BOTTOM ports on the H240X as the in/out of my loop, closing off the top port (above the pump, res side)?


not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the fillport being used as an alternate output. if this is what you mean, I can dig up my post somewhere.

Edit: If you mean just plugging the pump outlet and leaving the reservoir/pump attached, yes this may also be possible but again will ruin the function of the product. the pump will not be able to be used, nor will the reservoir function as intended.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the fillport being used as an alternate output. if this is what you mean, I can dig up my post somewhere.
> 
> Edit: If you mean just plugging the pump outlet and leaving the reservoir/pump attached, yes this may also be possible but again will ruin the function of the product. the pump will not be able to be used, nor will the reservoir function as intended.


Ok, that is what I assumed. I don't know why Swiftech told me this would work (with no *). Thanks for the reply.

Would I be able to use the drain port (bottom) in conjunction with the pump/res port (remaining port is closed off)?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Can I use the two BOTTOM ports on the H240X as the in/out of my loop, closing off the top port (above the pump, res side)?


not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the fillport being used as an alternate output. if this is what you mean, I can dig up my post somewhere.
> 
> Edit: If you mean just plugging the pump outlet and leaving the reservoir/pump attached, yes this may also be possible but again will ruin the function of the product. the pump will not be able to be used, nor will the reservoir function as intended.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, that is what I assumed. I don't know why Swiftech told me this would work (with no *). Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Would I be able to use the drain port (bottom) in conjunction with the pump/res port (remaining port is closed off)?
Click to expand...

"bottom" is relative to your mounting position. there's an outlet on the pump/res and a inlet on the "bottom" of the other side of it (edit: the metal part of the radiator that hangs down on the same side as the pump/res. you can see there's a slight separation in the metal to direct coolant into one side of the radiator from there). that part must be used since coolant flows into the radiator in a U shape from that inlet part. closing off that and using the fillport as an inlet WOULD work, but coolant wouldn't flow through the radiator at all - just pretty much directly to the reservoir/pump. not recommended since the coolant wouldn't get cooled.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the
> "bottom" is relative to your mounting position. there's an outlet on the pump/res and a inlet on the "bottom" of the other side of it (edit: the metal part of the radiator that hangs down on the same side as the pump/res. you can see there's a slight separation in the metal to direct coolant into one side of the radiator from there). that part must be used since coolant flows into the radiator in a U shape from that inlet part. closing off that and using the fillport as an inlet WOULD work, but coolant wouldn't flow through the radiator at all - just pretty much directly to the reservoir/pump. not recommended since the coolant wouldn't get cooled.


Thank for the reply again. Well... that kinda sucks. IMO "works" is "works as the product was originally intended", but I get what you are saying. That third port only works (my definition) as a drain port. Oh well, guess I will have to do a slightly odd tubing run.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> not quite sure what you mean but if you mean completely ruining your warranty and the intended function of the product, I have a post somewhere here with the reservoir/pump removed, hole plugged, and the
> "bottom" is relative to your mounting position. there's an outlet on the pump/res and a inlet on the "bottom" of the other side of it (edit: the metal part of the radiator that hangs down on the same side as the pump/res. you can see there's a slight separation in the metal to direct coolant into one side of the radiator from there). that part must be used since coolant flows into the radiator in a U shape from that inlet part. closing off that and using the fillport as an inlet WOULD work, but coolant wouldn't flow through the radiator at all - just pretty much directly to the reservoir/pump. not recommended since the coolant wouldn't get cooled.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank for the reply again. Well... that kinda sucks. IMO "works" is "works as the product was originally intended", but I get what you are saying. That third port only works (my definition) as a drain port. Oh well, guess I will have to do a slightly odd tubing run.
Click to expand...

If you need a low profile tight 90 degree turn, these work very well in my experience (and low thread depth since the H240X is also low thread depth ports) Koolance Nozzle Single, Black G 1/4" Swivel Angled Barb [For ID: 10mm (3/8")]



Edit: You'd need a 5/8" clamp though or some zip ties since this comes with 1/2" clamp. The stock H240X tubing gets a VERY tight fit on these barbs though so you can even go clampless.

Edit2: You could also do a 60-degree angled fitting+barb too if you need a steeper than 45 degree turn. There's some decent enzotech combined angled barbs, and a plethora of regular angled fittings to screw a barb into.

Edit3: Also, I have a bunch of spare stock H240X 45 degree fittings and a couple 90 degree (with swiftech clamps) I could put up for sale if anyone needs some extra stock fittings. Swiftech doesn't seem to sell them separately.


----------



## Streetdragon

little question. i wanna install a reservoir with a pump in front of my H240x. I dont wanna use the pump in the h240x. Just want it more individually.(reservoir with pump ->H240-X)
Soo if i refill my loop through the tube reservoir, can i get problems with traped air in the H240x?
And can i use Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra - red in the h240-x?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> little question. i wanna install a reservoir with a pump in front of my H240x. I dont wanna use the pump in the h240x. Just want it more individually.(reservoir with pump ->H240-X)
> Soo if i refill my loop through the tube reservoir, can i get problems with traped air in the H240x?
> And can i use Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra - red in the h240-x?


why wouldnt you want to use the pump in the h240-x? Adding a second would allow redundancy...for filling i would only use the one attatched to the res...and only power it and no other components...there is no surefure way to not get air in the loop without a sophisticated setup there will always be bleeding unless you use qdcs and fill each component seperately...which is a pain too...its just yhe way it is once you break a loop you get to bleed agai. Just like any other closed liquid system...brakes are a great example


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> why wouldnt you want to use the pump in the h240-x? Adding a second would allow redundancy...for filling i would only use the one attatched to the res...and only power it and no other components...there is no surefure way to not get air in the loop without a sophisticated setup there will always be bleeding unless you use qdcs and fill each component seperately...which is a pain too...its just yhe way it is once you break a loop you get to bleed agai. Just like any other closed liquid system...brakes are a great example


Soooo just drill a hole in the top of my case, put a tube though it and conect it to the fillport of the 240x? Maybe with a quick fitting. Sounds not bad too...

But the fluit is ok to use or?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Soooo just drill a hole in the top of my case, put a tube though it and conect it to the fillport of the 240x? Maybe with a quick fitting. Sounds not bad too...
> 
> But the fluit is ok to use or?


you wouldnt need to drill any holes...you can fill through the secondary res and pump you just cant have the swiftech pump powered at the same time until you have the loop full because a dry pump is a dead pump...you only run the pump you are filling from then you can use both once the loop is full


----------



## paskowitz

My entire line of questioning has just been made irrelevant since I found an even better tube run than what I had originally planned.


----------



## confed

Well, this is not fun. I had to rma my first H220 back in August of 2013 due to pump failure. And now the pump appears to have died on this unit. Going to have to check it out in the morning by jumping the power supply and seeing if connecting only the pump gets me anywhere. I am browsing from a tablet right now, I know that Bram left, is there a different rep on OCN to contact about issues?


----------



## navit

Well I made a decision and mounted my H220x2 at the bottom of my new 600c and I think all is well.
here are a couple of crappy IPhone pics of the new build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Well I made a decision and mounted my H220x2 at the bottom of my new 600c and I think all is well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> here are a couple of crappy IPhone pics of the new build.











The saying "Dumber than a stick." comes to mind.















The only position Swiftech says not to install them in and you do it anyway.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Well I made a decision and mounted my H220x2 at the bottom of my new 600c and I think all is well.
> here are a couple of crappy IPhone pics of the new build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I thought the Swiftech AIOs could not be mounted on the bottom like that due to the way the pump is mounted. I have heard it will eventually fail when mounted at that angle.....


----------



## navit

Yep I hear ya. however you are showing a H220x not the H220x2 there is just a slight difference. The H220x2 diagram does not have the big X in red.
Thanks for sharing your stick


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I thought the Swiftech AIOs could not be mounted on the bottom like that due to the way the pump is mounted. I have heard it will eventually fail when mounted at that angle.....


To be honest I am a little worried, I posted in the Swiftech forum but never got any answers from swiftech


----------



## VSG

http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx#tab5

That bottom orientation is NOT to be used, it not being present in the radiator orientations listed is basically the same as saying don't use it.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx#tab5
> 
> That bottom orientation is NOT to be used, it not being present in the radiator orientations listed is basically the same as saying don't use it.


I am not disagreeing you but I had to try something as it wasn't working in any other way, but for this moment it is working just fine, just don't know for how long.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> To be honest I am a little worried, I posted in the Swiftech forum but never got any answers from swiftech


So the instructions that came with the X2 does not show the correct mounting positions?

I just loaded up the "Quick Installation Guide" for your H220-X2 and though it does not say "not to" mount it like you did at the bottom it does show "correct" mounting positions and upside down like that is not pictured.... I would not mount it that way.


----------



## navit

Kind of sucks It can be Mounted in every way but this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yep I hear ya. however you are showing a H220x not the H220x2 there is just a slight difference. The H220x2 diagram does not have the big X in red.
> Thanks for sharing your stick


And it does not show it as a legitimate way of mounting it either.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Kind of sucks It can be Mounted in every way but this.


Not really. It's just life.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Kind of sucks It can be Mounted in every way but this.


That's too bad because the bottom looks like best place for it otherwise. I don't know which I'd try first on the front, intake or exhaust?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Well I made a decision and mounted my H220x2 at the bottom of my new 600c and I think all is well.
> here are a couple of crappy IPhone pics of the new build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, but H220-X2 on bottom problems will arise to be unknown and could end up costing you more later as you have to replace the H220-X2.
Also the rear fan remove it as it is doing nothing to exhaust heat and seal vent holes. This is from the bottom intake fan so close. All you do is pull the intake air out.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's too bad because the bottom looks like best place for it otherwise. I don't know which I'd try first on the front, intake or exhaust?


Intake, cold air in is always better. I would be worried about mounting upside down, those pumps don't like running with no water and are designed to feed from the res downward.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Intake, cold air in is always better. I would be worried about mounting upside down, those pumps don't like running with no water and are designed to feed from the res downward.


Thats definitely best for the cpu. But cooling the gpu is critical for a gaming rig, typically the gpu has to work a lot harder, and run a lot hotter, than the cpu. Feeding the gpu fresh cool air might be more important than feeding the cpu.

edit: Here's an idea. Remove the pci slot covers and mount a 120 or 140mm fan on the exterior of the case as intake, pushing cool air thru those open slot covers right to the gpu. Both rear fans are intake and with the rad mounted on the front as exhaust. Not sure what to do with the bottom fan mounts, maybe seal them up, might not be needed?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yep I hear ya. however you are showing a H220x not the H220x2 there is just a slight difference. The H220x2 diagram does not have the big X in red.
> Thanks for sharing your stick


Nice snarky comment. Too bad Swiftech's mounting guide wasn't in agreement with your stick (whatever that means....)









Talk about "open mouth, insert foot".....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Kind of sucks It can be Mounted in every way but this.


i would make some legs for the screws and flip it over with the pump facing the correct way...unless this makes the tubes too short
you might lose a little cooling capacity but it wont kill your pump


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Looks good, but H220-X2 on bottom problems will arise to be unknown and could end up costing you more later as you have to replace the H220-X2.
> Also the rear fan remove it as it is doing nothing to exhaust heat and seal vent holes. This is from the bottom intake fan so close. All you do is pull the intake air out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> That's too bad because the bottom looks like best place for it otherwise. I don't know which I'd try first on the front, intake or exhaust?


the fans on the rad and the one beside it are all pulling cool air(intake). Also the two front are intake and the 140 at the rear is exhaust.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Thats definitely best for the cpu. But cooling the gpu is critical for a gaming rig, typically the gpu has to work a lot harder, and run a lot hotter, than the cpu. Feeding the gpu fresh cool air might be more important than feeding the cpu.
> 
> edit: Here's an idea. Remove the pci slot covers and mount a 120 or 140mm fan on the exterior of the case as intake, pushing cool air thru those open slot covers right to the gpu. Both rear fans are intake and with the rad mounted on the front as exhaust. Not sure what to do with the bottom fan mounts, maybe seal them up, might not be needed?


The whole point of all this was when I had it mounted on the front the pump was preventing my gpu from fitting. I had to fit it in the top pci slot and it was starving it for air and it really didn't fit well there with the Rad hoses jammed up on a very hot back plate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nice snarky comment. Too bad Swiftech's mounting guide wasn't in agreement with your stick (whatever that means....)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talk about "open mouth, insert foot".....


Life will go on, thanks for you input on this matter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> The whole point of all this was when I had it mounted on the front the pump was preventing my gpu from fitting. I had to fit it in the top pci slot and it was starving it for air and it really didn't fit well there with the Rad hoses jammed up on a very hot back plate.


Looking at the pics, it appears there would be plenty of room to mount it in the front with the pump on the bottom. You can always cut the tubes to fit your build.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looking at the pics, it appears there would be plenty of room to mount it in the front with the pump on the bottom. You can always cut the tubes to fit your build.


Thought about that and may end up with it that way. just don't want to lose the look of being able to see the res.
Part of all this is the looks of everything together.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Thought about that and may end up with it that way. just don't want to lose the look of being able to see the res.
> Part of all this is the looks of everything together.


Seems too much of a hassle lately. Looks are good if you want, maybe take back the case and get a different one where you can mount either front or top. This way you leave out the problems.
New tubing is going to be needed to allow proper front fitting if the res is showing in front. Can you take photos showing the GPU in different spots with H220-X2 in front.

Reason I mention to remove rear fan and to cover is the bottom fan is just blowing out the rear. This is what I noticed with the 600c build I did.
Rear fan is not exhausting much of the heat, just mostly from the bottom fan.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Thought about that and may end up with it that way. just don't want to lose the look of being able to see the res.
> Part of all this is the looks of everything together.


Idk, to have your cake and eat it too... options seem to be to either get a new case or get a new cooler, standalone rad + tube res/pump assembly, or maybe a nice big air cooler


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Idk, to have your cake and eat it too... options seem to be to either get a new case or get a new cooler, standalone rad + tube res/pump assembly, or maybe a nice big air cooler


Issues I found with 600C is limited options for a build. This is the closest I saw that we were looking at for the 600C build we did, but scraped it and went with air only.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Idk, to have your cake and eat it too... options seem to be to either get a new case or get a new cooler, standalone rad + tube res/pump assembly, or maybe a nice big air cooler


LOL - I was going to say "An Evolv ATX TG would have made this really easy.......and would have been a lot better built".


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL - I was going to say "An Evolv ATX TG would have made this really easy.......and would have been a lot better built".


To be fair though, the problem is with the h220 not being able to run in the desired orientation. The 600c looks like a nice smallish midsize case.

Is it possible for the pump on the h220x2 be rotated 180 degrees? Pull the pump from the res, rotate 180, then reattach to the res? That would put the pump in the orientation it has when running top-mounted.


----------



## rfarmer

The radiator can be installed horizontally or vertically - right side up or upside down in both configurations: in other words, horizontally with the pump/reservoir facing down (top of the case), horizontally with the pump/reservoir facing up (bottom of the case - * see important note below), vertically with the pump/reservoir at top (back of the case), vertically with the pump/reservoir at bottom (front of the case), or it can also be installed on the side.

* Important note: when installed horizontally with the pump/reservoir facing up, the amount of space available for air trap is reduced, therefore necessitating to keep the reservoir always full of coolant, particularly at high pump speed, in order to avoid entrainment of air into the pump. Because of this limitation, the 3 year no-maintenance representation stated above cannot be ascertained in such configuration.

That is from the installation notes on performance pc for the H220-X2 I think you would probably be alright mounting it upside down but you need to make sure and keep the reservoir full all the time.


----------



## NerdDreamz

Hey everyone, first time water cooler and I'm getting an H240x2. Most places say fill with distilled water. I plan to add a Mayhem pastel and expand with a EK waterblock for the EVGA 1080. Should I wait to replace the liquid that the h240 comes with? Does it matter?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerdDreamz*
> 
> Hey everyone, first time water cooler and I'm getting an H240x2. Most places say fill with distilled water. I plan to add a Mayhem pastel and expand with a EK waterblock for the EVGA 1080. Should I wait to replace the liquid that the h240 comes with? Does it matter?


I'm not sure I fully understand your question, and you seem to be confused on a couple of things.

First, if you are going pastel (which Swiftech strongly recommends against) you will need to buy the concentrate to mix with distilled water (or you can simply buy it pre-mixed, but the cost and shipping is ridiculous). Adding pastel to the coolant that is in the unit when you buy it is not advisable.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerdDreamz*
> 
> Hey everyone, first time water cooler and I'm getting an H240x2. Most places say fill with distilled water. I plan to add a Mayhem pastel and expand with a EK waterblock for the EVGA 1080. Should I wait to replace the liquid that the h240 comes with? Does it matter?


What @ciarlatano said. Plus if you are a first time water cooler I would stick with what is in the H240-X2 for now. If you wanted some color just add what comes with the kit. When you expand to add your graphics card you will still need to add some distilled water.

FYI, pastels are not recommended by most people especially for beginners. Adding a pastel mix to a loop will require you to do more maintenance than normally required. I recommend you get some experience with water cooling before you venture into the pastel category.


----------



## Tim Drake

Do you guys think I'd be able to run two 360mm radiators (one the stock radiator) and a GPU block on the original H320? Or is the pump not powerful enough?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Do you guys think I'd be able to run two 360mm radiators (one the stock radiator) and a GPU block on the original H320? Or is the pump not powerful enough?


You absolutely can.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You absolutely can.


Are you sure it would? A friend said this " Harry Nowland:
Yes 2 rads on that power is just not going to happen. You impede the flow rate and create hot plates instead"

Do you have any proof or anything of it being fine?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Are you sure it would? A friend said this " Harry Nowland:
> Yes 2 rads on that power is just not going to happen. You impede the flow rate and create hot plates instead"
> 
> Do you have any proof or anything of it being fine?


That has over 2m of head pressure. Read through this thread, you will find many users who have done that and more.


----------



## NerdDreamz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not sure I fully understand your question, and you seem to be confused on a couple of things.
> 
> First, if you are going pastel (which Swiftech strongly recommends against) you will need to buy the concentrate to mix with distilled water (or you can simply buy it pre-mixed, but the cost and shipping is ridiculous). Adding pastel to the coolant that is in the unit when you buy it is not advisable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What @ciarlatano said. Plus if you are a first time water cooler I would stick with what is in the H240-X2 for now. If you wanted some color just add what comes with the kit. When you expand to add your graphics card you will still need to add some distilled water.
> 
> FYI, pastels are not recommended by most people especially for beginners. Adding a pastel mix to a loop will require you to do more maintenance than normally required. I recommend you get some experience with water cooling before you venture into the pastel category.


To clarify, I was saying many people would recommend using distilled water and a silver coil (or pt nuke/other biocide) when filling a loop. Obviously, I don't NEED to do this with the H240x2, but I was trying to ask if I SHOULD replace the original coolant? (Is it beneficial maintenance or otherwise?) Also, was asking if I could use the original coolant with a pastel mix (to which you said no).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Are you sure it would? A friend said this " Harry Nowland:
> Yes 2 rads on that power is just not going to happen. You impede the flow rate and create hot plates instead"
> 
> Do you have any proof or anything of it being fine?


Yes it can be done. There are many users on here who have done so.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerdDreamz*
> 
> To clarify, I was saying many people would recommend using distilled water and a silver coil (or pt nuke/other biocide) when filling a loop. Obviously, I don't NEED to do this with the H240x2, but I was trying to ask if I SHOULD replace the original coolant? (Is it beneficial maintenance or otherwise?) Also, was asking if I could use the original coolant with a pastel mix (to which you said no).


Got it. I am not going to dredge up the whole distilled + coil vs. a concentrate again, way too prickly of a subject here. It is for you to decide if you want to use distilled + coil (Monsoon Silver Bullet is a much more convenient route than a coil, btw), or have the added benefits of properly measured biocide, anti-scaling and anti-corrosion that would be included in a concentrate like Mayhems X1, EK or XSPC ECx.









There is no need to replace the original coolant for 2-3 years according to Swiftech *if* you leave the loop sealed. If you open the loop, you will need to replace it ~yearly (pastels are more frequent). If you are adding a GPU and are thinking about going colored, that is a good time to do it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Are you sure it would? A friend said this " Harry Nowland:
> Yes 2 rads on that power is just not going to happen. You impede the flow rate and create hot plates instead"
> 
> Do you have any proof or anything of it being fine?


There is lots of videos showing original H220/H240/H320 with other rads+GPU/CPU blocks. Even Swiftech own build did this.
Many here has done the same without issues.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is lots of videos showing original H220/H240/H320 with other rads+GPU/CPU blocks. Even Swiftech own build did this.
> Many here has done the same without issues.


Okay, might add another rad then


----------



## confed

Does anyone know about how much coolant should fit into the H220?

I cleaned the fans and radiator this past weekend and I've done this multiple times without issue. This time, the cooling properties have disappeared. I decided to drain the coolant and refill. I noticed a large amount of small particles/sediment that was in the coolant. I'm not sure if that has caused issues to the pump or if it has created a clog somewhere in the system.

Outside of removing all tubing, is there a way to clean this and remove the sediment completely? This unit was sent to me after a pump failure in August of 2013. Swiftech's OCN forum member was quick to respond and helpful but I know he left some time ago. Any advice would be appreciated. The response from Swiftech was to prime the pump and refill which was a short response and so far hasn't worked. Thanks for reading this long, badly formatted post.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Does anyone know about how much coolant should fit into the H220?
> 
> I cleaned the fans and radiator this past weekend and I've done this multiple times without issue. This time, the cooling properties have disappeared. I decided to drain the coolant and refill. I noticed a large amount of small particles/sediment that was in the coolant. I'm not sure if that has caused issues to the pump or if it has created a clog somewhere in the system.
> 
> Outside of removing all tubing, is there a way to clean this and remove the sediment completely? This unit was sent to me after a pump failure in August of 2013. Swiftech's OCN forum member was quick to respond and helpful but I know he left some time ago. Any advice would be appreciated. The response from Swiftech was to prime the pump and refill which was a short response and so far hasn't worked. Thanks for reading this long, badly formatted post.


I think its about a cup, ~8ozs or 250ml.

Sediment doesn't sound good? I'd want to clean that out too. Maybe your working with a really old unit that came with tubing loaded with plasticizer that could foul the water?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think its about a cup, ~8ozs or 250ml.
> 
> Sediment doesn't sound good? I'd want to clean that out too. Maybe your working with a really old unit that came with tubing loaded with plasticizer that could foul the water?


I believe all of the H220 used that tubing. Also, the HydrX PM2 had a small amount of dye that often fell out of suspension leaving a brown sediment.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Are you sure it would? A friend said this " Harry Nowland:
> Yes 2 rads on that power is just not going to happen. You impede the flow rate and create hot plates instead"
> 
> Do you have any proof or anything of it being fine?
> 
> 
> 
> That has over 2m of head pressure. Read through this thread, you will find many users who have done that and more.
Click to expand...

as usual he is correct in this matter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerdDreamz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm not sure I fully understand your question, and you seem to be confused on a couple of things.
> 
> First, if you are going pastel (which Swiftech strongly recommends against) you will need to buy the concentrate to mix with distilled water (or you can simply buy it pre-mixed, but the cost and shipping is ridiculous). Adding pastel to the coolant that is in the unit when you buy it is not advisable.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What @ciarlatano said. Plus if you are a first time water cooler I would stick with what is in the H240-X2 for now. If you wanted some color just add what comes with the kit. When you expand to add your graphics card you will still need to add some distilled water.
> 
> FYI, pastels are not recommended by most people especially for beginners. Adding a pastel mix to a loop will require you to do more maintenance than normally required. I recommend you get some experience with water cooling before you venture into the pastel category.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To clarify, I was saying many people would recommend using distilled water and a silver coil (or pt nuke/other biocide) when filling a loop. Obviously, I don't NEED to do this with the H240x2, but I was trying to ask if I SHOULD replace the original coolant? (Is it beneficial maintenance or otherwise?) Also, was asking if I could use the original coolant with a pastel mix (to which you said no).
Click to expand...

totally a personal choice, either will work, and provide well for your needs, you need to decide, generally speaking
distilled and biocide is cheaper -
premixed or concentrate addins are more expensive

read up and decide whats best for you !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NerdDreamz*
> 
> To clarify, I was saying many people would recommend using distilled water and a silver coil (or pt nuke/other biocide) when filling a loop. Obviously, I don't NEED to do this with the H240x2, but I was trying to ask if I SHOULD replace the original coolant? (Is it beneficial maintenance or otherwise?) Also, was asking if I could use the original coolant with a pastel mix (to which you said no).
> 
> 
> 
> Got it. I am not going to dredge up the whole distilled + coil vs. a concentrate again, way too prickly of a subject here. It is for you to decide if you want to use distilled + coil (Monsoon Silver Bullet is a much more convenient route than a coil, btw), _*or have the added benefits of properly measured biocide, anti-scaling and anti-corrosion that would be included in a concentrate*_ like Mayhems X1, EK or XSPC ECx.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no need to replace the original coolant for 2-3 years according to Swiftech *if* you leave the loop sealed. If you open the loop, you will need to replace it ~yearly (pastels are more frequent). If you are adding a GPU and are thinking about going colored, that is a good time to do it.
Click to expand...

you already did you can very easily measure proper biocide the rest is not needed in MOST average or common loops - you will know if you have an abnormal loop - and yet you inferred that it is hard and trying to do so. ( anti scaling is a new one, and NOT needed unless you use water with scale aka not distilled water .... OR run an open loop - not meaning custom water loop but a loop that is physically open to atmosphere - see cooling tower ) nor is anti corrosion needed. but recently people have decided to run it/advertise it , that is fine- but still a personal choice


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think its about a cup, ~8ozs or 250ml.
> 
> Sediment doesn't sound good? I'd want to clean that out too. Maybe your working with a really old unit that came with tubing loaded with plasticizer that could foul the water?


Well, I finally got this thing running again. At this time, it is only running on distilled water so I am going to pick up some of Swiftech's coolant by the end of the weekend. Looks like I would only need to add about half of the concentrate or pick up the premixed coolant and just flush the loop again.

I appreciate those who replied and weighed in. After many days and lots of tinkering, the pump is running back at normal speeds with a negligible difference in performance. I was mostly worried because it seems my old Seasonic 750 was dying and it shorted/fried part of the Sata connector on the Swiftech splitter. New power supply, new splitter, and lots of trial & error got me back up and running.

Overall, I am content with Swiftech's responses through email but I definitely miss the responses I received in the past, with other reps. I am not going to let this experience completely sour me on the company but I will keep it in mind should another issue arise.


----------



## paskowitz

Just got my replacement Apogee XL from Swiftech... it was very dirty.

...
and that was like the 10th qtip.

Clean your hardware people.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just got my replacement Apogee XL from Swiftech... it was very dirty.
> 
> ...
> and that was like the 10th qtip.
> 
> Clean your hardware people.


That looks like normal oxidation to me. That's what happens with bare copper is exposed to the air, espeically if air is not extremely dry. Most people call that tarnish.


I will gladly accept a little tarnish instead of it being plated which lowers heat transfer, .. not to mention the plating flaking off problems.


----------



## Pegasus

So I just picked up a H240X2 and I've been left wondering why on earth they send these things with the CPU block preattached to the backplate?

I spent about 4 hours trying to unscrew the block from the backplate but one screw was just completely jammed no matter what I did and I only had one pair of pliers on hand so there was nothing I could do about it, same thing with the motherboard standoffs being attached to the backplate, it all created a lot of unneccesary hassle that simply wouldn't have existed if it had come with the parts separate as they should be.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> So I just picked up a H240X2 and I've been left wondering why on earth they send these things with the CPU block preattached to the backplate?
> 
> I spent about 4 hours trying to unscrew the block from the backplate but one screw was just completely jammed no matter what I did and I only had one pair of pliers on hand so there was nothing I could do about it, same thing with the motherboard standoffs being attached to the backplate, it all created a lot of unneccesary hassle that simply wouldn't have existed if it had come with the parts separate as they should be.


Even if the screw is tight, there is never a need for pliers, let alone two pairs. The backplate itself will hold the nut in place while you unscrew the fastener, you simply need to put the nut back in place if the pressure fit pops off. You are not the first person I have seen say something similar, but the "hassle" you mention is non-existent if you simply look at the parts for a moment rather than reach straight for a hammer pair of pliers.

Swiftech should probably add something to the manual about this.


----------



## Pegasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Even if the screw is tight, there is never a need for pliers, let alone two pairs. The backplate itself will hold the nut in place while you unscrew the fastener, you simply need to put the nut back in place if the pressure fit pops off. You are not the first person I have seen say something similar, but the "hassle" you mention is non-existent if you simply look at the parts for a moment rather than reach straight for a hammer pair of pliers.
> 
> Swiftech should probably add something to the manual about this.


I agree with you about the nut and I did my best to put it back in place but it still turned with the screw so I tried holding the nut with a pair of pliers while I turned the screw and no matter what I tried it just wouldn't move, in this case that particular screw was over tightened like crazy, even with two pairs of pliers I could barely turn it! The other 3 screws came out with no pliers or anything.

And how are you supposed to remove the stand offs without pliers? Honestly I don't get why they send it preassembled like this, it just seems like it causes issues for no reason, it's a real shame because the mounting hardware seems very easy to install so it's given me a bad initial impression unnecessarily.


----------



## bluedevil

Need a help here guys, which rigid fittings would be a good fit on the H240-X2? Looking at doing that on my Sponsored DOOM build.


----------



## Pegasus

So after installing this I've noticed that the back of the reservior is leaking, I'm not having a good experience with this product at all.

I emailed the place of purchase about it who told me to contact swiftech even though the swiftech site says if you're outside of America you need to contact the reseller directly for an RMA... do we have a swiftech rep on this forum I can contact about this because quite frankly I'm pretty annoyed after shelling out so much money just to be messed around like this.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> So after installing this I've noticed that the back of the reservior is leaking, I'm not having a good experience with this product at all.
> 
> I emailed the place of purchase about it who told me to contact swiftech even though the swiftech site says if you're outside of America you need to contact the reseller directly for an RMA... do we have a swiftech rep on this forum I can contact about this because quite frankly I'm pretty annoyed after shelling out so much money just to be messed around like this.


The Swiftech rep drops by here once in a blue moon. You are far better off emailing directly to [email protected] or using the Swiftech forums (http://forums.swiftech.com/). Obviously the email is the preferred route since that is exactly what Swiftech says to do in these cases.

Kind of odd that it would have a leak there. Can you post a pic? Someone here may have had a similar issue, or the leak may not be exactly what you are thinking, and there may be an easy fix.


----------



## Avant Garde

Any of you had a problem with leaking with H240-X2? I've came across some reports of leaked units... This guy was received a leaked unit TWICE!


----------



## Pegasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Swiftech rep drops by here once in a blue moon. You are far better off emailing directly to [email protected] or using the Swiftech forums (http://forums.swiftech.com/). Obviously the email is the preferred route since that is exactly what Swiftech says to do in these cases.
> 
> Kind of odd that it would have a leak there. Can you post a pic? Someone here may have had a similar issue, or the leak may not be exactly what you are thinking, and there may be an easy fix.


I had a look at the swiftech forums and no one seems to be replying there so I emailed that Swiftech email you posted, I might just call them tomorrow though to speed things up.

The thing is when I first opened the product there were a few drops of water on it but I didn't think anything of it. Whenever I touch the back of the reservoir with a tissue the tissue gets wet so it's definitely a leak. I had a corsair H50 running for 7 years with no issues which cost a third of what this cost so to have this leaking out of the box is seriously disappointing.

It's also annoying because I had to import this from the Netherlands so to send it back there and receive a replacement is going to take ages, hopefully I can get the RMA approved by Swiftech tomorrow, I'll let you all know how things go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Any of you had a problem with leaking with H240-X2? I've came across some reports of leaked units... This guy was received a leaked unit TWICE!


Yes, mine was leaking out of the box without any use which is mind blowing when these products are supposedly leak tested before being shipped out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> I had a look at the swiftech forums and no one seems to be replying there so I emailed that Swiftech email you posted, I might just call them tomorrow though to speed things up.
> 
> The thing is when I first opened the product there were a few drops of water on it but I didn't think anything of it. Whenever I touch the back of the reservoir with a tissue the tissue gets wet so it's definitely a leak. I had a corsair H50 running for 7 years with no issues which cost a third of what this cost so to have this leaking out of the box is seriously disappointing.
> 
> It's also annoying because I had to import this from the Netherlands so to send it back there and receive a replacement is going to take ages, hopefully I can get the RMA approved by Swiftech tomorrow, I'll let you all know how things go.
> Yes, mine was leaking out of the box without any use which is mind blowing when _these products are supposedly leak tested before being shipped out._


Yes, they are. Unfortunately, couriers aren't exactly gentle with their shipments. The couple of leaks I have seen were likely the result of them being tossed around like basketballs. The fault is not so much the unit as the packaging, and they do need to step that up.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> I had a look at the swiftech forums and no one seems to be replying there so I emailed that Swiftech email you posted, I might just call them tomorrow though to speed things up.
> 
> The thing is when I first opened the product there were a few drops of water on it but I didn't think anything of it. Whenever I touch the back of the reservoir with a tissue the tissue gets wet so it's definitely a leak. I had a corsair H50 running for 7 years with no issues which cost a third of what this cost so to have this leaking out of the box is seriously disappointing.
> 
> It's also annoying because I had to import this from the Netherlands so to send it back there and receive a replacement is going to take ages, hopefully I can get the RMA approved by Swiftech tomorrow, I'll let you all know how things go.
> Yes, mine was leaking out of the box without any use which is mind blowing when these products are supposedly leak tested before being shipped out.


Tomorrow is a holiday here in the states. It is July 4th and a holiday because it is my birthday and I am that important....lol....j/k. Though it is my birthday I think just about everyone knows why it is a holiday, and no it is not because of fighting off an alien invasion.

Good luck with Swiftech support outside of calling them. I emailed (and posted on their forums) them months ago about the 320 X2 prestige and there have been no responses at all. I did try calling them at one point but I kept getting some kind of messaging service.


----------



## Pegasus

So one of the motherboard stand offs didn't want to come out no matter what and ended up scratching and killing my motherboard. Honestly this is ridiculous, what a horrible experience, I've been building computers for a long time and never experienced such a terrible product before.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> So one of the motherboard stand offs didn't want to come out no matter what and ended up scratching and killing my motherboard. Honestly this is ridiculous, what a horrible experience, I've been building computers for a long time and never experienced such a terrible product before.


jebus, how tight did you screw it into the backplate?


----------



## Pegasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> jebus, how tight did you screw it into the backplate?


I barely screwed it in tbh I used my bare finger tips to do it. The whole thing was faulty from the beginning, I couldn't even remove the block from the backplate when it first arrived.


----------



## skmanu

Just sharing my experience with the H240X: I love it!

Added 1x280 and 1x140. It keeps my [email protected]/1.29v below in the 75C zone for the hottest core!


----------



## skmanu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Okay, might add another rad then


Running an extra 280 and an extra 140, with a Raijintek universal gpu block on a 780ti. No flow issue at all: Both cpu gpu oc'ed on full load, 80c max for thz cpu and high 30's for the gpu. About to add a second 780ti+block.


----------



## klyzon

wanted to love my h220 x2 very much. excellent performance, good looks with the reservoir etc.

however, i have extremely bad experience with this product. Firstly, the small screws that holds the fans are short ones, extremely tough to unscrew without a super thin screwdriver.
I used it for a month and it started leaking.. It isn't a small leak, it leaked all over my motherboard and my 980ti.. I even took extra care to not have any tension on the pipes and handled the unit carefully as i know that there are virtually no support from swiftech's forums.

upon removal of the cooler, the back plate was jam shut of my motherboard, i didn't even remove the adhesive pads behind for use...

sigh..


----------



## v1ral

Is Mayhems Pastel coolant good to use with the h220x?
I plan on going PETG and I want some color and there isn't any colored PETG tube that I can find.


----------



## Jimbags

I have the original H220 sitting in the cupboard. It uses the MCP50X pump. Does anyone have a spare pump top i could buy to use with mine? Its just such a nice small powerful pump, would be perfect for my htpc build. Cant seem to find stock pump top anywhere for sale though. Maybe someo e could 3d print it for me?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I have the original H220 sitting in the cupboard. It uses the MCP50X pump. Does anyone have a spare pump top i could buy to use with mine? Its just such a nice small powerful pump, would be perfect for my htpc build. Cant seem to find stock pump top anywhere for sale though. Maybe someo e could 3d print it for me?


h220 uses the mcp30 i think...iirc the 30 and 35x use the same top...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> h220 uses the mcp30 i think...iirc the 30 and 35x use the same top...


Yes, it is an early version MCP30 in the H220. However, it does not use the same top as the MCP35X - they are not compatible. The MCP30 and MCP50X use the same top. If Swiftech sent a replacement pump to him, they may have sent an MCP50X (which they were known to do), so he _could_ have an H220 with an MCP50X.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I have the original H220 sitting in the cupboard. It uses the MCP50X pump. Does anyone have a spare pump top i could buy to use with mine? Its just such a nice small powerful pump, would be perfect for my htpc build. Cant seem to find stock pump top anywhere for sale though. Maybe someo e could 3d print it for me?


Check out the Shapeways website. You can make your own project and submit it to them and they will print it. There is also the possibility that someone there has the template for the cover of the pump already. If not there are plenty of people that may be able to help you out..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, it is an early version MCP30 in the H220. However, it does not use the same top as the MCP35X - they are not compatible. The MCP30 and MCP50X use the same top. If Swiftech sent a replacement pump to him, they may have sent an MCP50X (which they were known to do), so he _could_ have an H220 with an MCP50X.


edit: nevermind...i think its odd they dont sell the mcp50x top...does the 35x top work? It doesnt look like it would...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> edit: nevermind...i think its odd they dont sell the mcp50x top...does the 35x top work? It doesnt look like it would...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, it is an early version MCP30 in the H220. However, it does not use the same top as the MCP35X - they are not compatible. The MCP30 and MCP50X use the same top. If Swiftech sent a replacement pump to him, they may have sent an MCP50X (which they were known to do), so he _could_ have an H220 with an MCP50X.


----------



## Jimbags

Im pretty sure ive got the MCP50X.Ive opened it up and it looks same as online pics anyway. They dont sell top seperate as the mxp50x has small easily lost washers, so swiftech couldnt offer warranty once pump was opened :-/ Anyone got a broken mcp30 or mcp50x i could buy? Just for the top. Hardest bit about 3d printing is getting measurements. Thanks for the help guys


----------



## klyzon

am thinking of modifying my damaged h220 x2.

would like for some advice.

Was thinking of adding a reservoir, another radiator and a gpu block.

Wonder if the pump on the h220 x2 would be strong enough to handle the extra resistance. Would also like to change the default fittings into compression fittings, most likely going to hardline it too.

Any one with similar mods/setup care to share any information?


----------



## skmanu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> am thinking of modifying my damaged h220 x2.
> 
> would like for some advice.
> 
> Was thinking of adding a reservoir, another radiator and a gpu block.
> 
> Wonder if the pump on the h220 x2 would be strong enough to handle the extra resistance. Would also like to change the default fittings into compression fittings, most likely going to hardline it too.
> 
> Any one with similar mods/setup care to share any information?


yes more than strong enougj


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skmanu*
> 
> yes more than strong enougj


if i hardline the loop, how would i go about filling the loop if my h220 x2 is top mount. Would i have to tilt the whole rig or can i replace the screwcap with a fitting?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> if i hardline the loop, how would i go about filling the loop if my h220 x2 is top mount. Would i have to tilt the whole rig or can i replace the screwcap with a fitting?


You can replace the cap with a fitting and a fill line.


----------



## skmanu

It standard 1/4,


----------



## klyzon

anyone manage to modify their h220 x2 into a full custom loop? Am in need of some help with planning etc


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> anyone manage to modify their h220 x2 into a full custom loop? Am in need of some help with planning etc


Many have. What type of help do you need?


----------



## klyzon

ok i'm using a enthoo evolv glass case.

am thinking of adding another radiator and a reservoir on top of my h220 x2.

I would think the ideal position to mount the h220 x2 would be top mount, pump to CPU/VRM to GPU



would this work?


----------



## vaoqeRG

Im very interested in the Swiftech coolers but upon looking on Amazon I am seeing many reports of leaks:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H240-X2-CPU-Watercooling-Kit/dp/B01AOF4KGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468332127&sr=8-1&keywords=swiftech+h240

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiftech-H240-X2-PRESTIGE-Intel-Watercooling/dp/B01AOFQW5M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468332127&sr=8-2&keywords=swiftech+h240

Anyone from the UK who bought from Amazon here? Please share your experience!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> ok i'm using a enthoo evolv glass case.
> 
> am thinking of adding another radiator and a reservoir on top of my h220 x2.
> 
> I would think the ideal position to mount the h220 x2 would be top mount, pump to CPU/VRM to GPU
> 
> 
> 
> would this work?


Ideally, you would want to flip the front rad to have the ports at the bottom in that scenario. That will allow the tube res to act as, well.....a tube res. The way you have it now, with the liquid attempting to pump up through the res, can cause a number of issues - increased restriction, liquid setting oddly and leaving the top res empty at startup, etc. Flip the front rad, and use the bottom reservoir ports only. You can add a T for your drain line.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ideally, you would want to flip the front rad to have the ports at the bottom in that scenario. That will allow the tube res to act as, well.....a tube res. The way you have it now, with the liquid attempting to pump up through the res, can cause a number of issues - increased restriction, liquid setting oddly and leaving the top res empty at startup, etc. Flip the front rad, and use the bottom reservoir ports only. You can add a T for your drain line.


so I don't connect the radiator to the h220 x2? Only connect it to the tube reservoir? Sorry am new to this


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> so I don't connect the radiator to the h220 x2? Only connect it to the tube reservoir? Sorry am new to this


Like this -


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Like this -


awesome! thanks alot!


----------



## t1337dude

I think my H220 X2 is acting a little funky. Since I got it, it's been relatively silent. But in the last few days, the pump has gotten a bit noisy sounding. I can hear it from across the other side of the living room with the fans turned all the way down. It doesn't have that clicky sound that I've previously experienced with air bubbles. It's sort of just like a loud, dull hum emitting from the pump. When I put my ear next to it, it has a bit of a grinding sound to it. It almost sounds like I have the pump turned up to 100, even though it's only at 0%. But when I turn it from 0% to 100%, the difference isn't as much as I remember it being.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I think my H220 X2 is acting a little funky. Since I got it, it's been relatively silent. But in the last few days, the pump has gotten a bit noisy sounding. I can hear it from across the other side of the living room with the fans turned all the way down. It doesn't have that clicky sound that I've previously experienced with air bubbles. It's sort of just like a loud, dull hum emitting from the pump. When I put my ear next to it, it has a bit of a grinding sound to it. It almost sounds like I have the pump turned up to 100, even though it's only at 0%. But when I turn it from 0% to 100%, the difference isn't as much as I remember it being.


Have you tried topping it off? They start making sounds similar to what you describing when the fluid gets a little low.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Have you tried topping it off? They start making sounds similar to what you describing when the fluid gets a little low.


Thank you sir, I will give that a shot. I'm also going to try unplugging the RPM connection to the pump and let it sit on max overnight. If all else fails I'll try to get a decent recording of what I'm experiencing. When I stick my ear right next to it, the grinding noise seems fairly...aggressive sounding? Like perhaps there is an air bubble. I'll try a few things and report back. I wish the problem was perhaps a bit more obvious because while the increase in noise is noticeable, it's not a night and day difference where I'll instantly be able to tell the problem was fixed.

I guess while I'm here - one more question - is it untypical for the LED's to change color on their own after reboot? For example, sometimes when I reboot, the red LED inside of my reservoir changes to green, while the other LED's remain red. I can't help but wonder if my whole LED system is broken because I've never been able to get the LED's on the transparent CPU block to light up.

Edit: Actually, the more I listen, it sounds a bit "grindy" even sitting across the room.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Thank you sir, I will give that a shot. I'm also going to try unplugging the RPM connection to the pump and let it sit on max overnight. If all else fails I'll try to get a decent recording of what I'm experiencing. When I stick my ear right next to it, the grinding noise seems fairly...aggressive sounding? Like perhaps there is an air bubble. I'll try a few things and report back. I wish the problem was perhaps a bit more obvious because while the increase in noise is noticeable, it's not a night and day difference where I'll instantly be able to tell the problem was fixed.
> 
> I guess while I'm here - one more question - is it untypical for the LED's to change color on their own after reboot? For example, sometimes when I reboot, the red LED inside of my reservoir changes to green, while the other LED's remain red. I can't help but wonder if my whole LED system is broken because I've never been able to get the LED's on the transparent CPU block to light up.
> 
> Edit: Actually, the more I listen, it sounds a bit "grindy" even sitting across the room.


Break out the distilled water and let us know how you make out.

I have no clue on the LEDs, btw. Really didn't play with them while I had the X2 up and running.


----------



## paskowitz

Welp, the threads on my replacement Apogee XL stripped again (same thing happened to my original). At first I tightened the fittings normally (hand tight but nothing crazy). I immediate saw it was leaking and I could hear the air hissing out. So I re-tightened the fitting and made sure it was screwed in evenly. I did tighten it more this time but, again, by hand (no tools/leverage). Still leaked and the threads are stripped. Now fittings won't set evenly. I am debating getting some Locktitie 425 or just ditching the block and getting something with metal threads... because this is maddening. While I am willing to admit I "did something wrong" I don't believe I was being overly aggressive or doing anything "a reasonable person" wouldn't do.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Could be soft acetyle or crossthreaded maybe? Did it thread in smoothly?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Welp, the threads on my replacement Apogee XL stripped again (same thing happened to my original). At first I tightened the fittings normally (hand tight but nothing crazy). I immediate saw it was leaking and I could hear the air hissing out. So I re-tightened the fitting and made sure it was screwed in evenly. I did tighten it more this time but, again, by hand (no tools/leverage). Still leaked and the threads are stripped. Now fittings won't set evenly. I am debating getting some Locktitie 425 or just ditching the block and getting something with metal threads... because this is maddening. While I am willing to admit I "did something wrong" I don't believe I was being overly aggressive or doing anything "a reasonable person" wouldn't do.


I had issues with one of my XL not being threaded deeply enough for some fittings. This caused the fitting to sit too high to properly compress the o-ring. Could this be what you are experiencing?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I had issues with one of my XL not being threaded deeply enough for some fittings. This caused the fitting to sit too high to properly compress the o-ring. Could this be what you are experiencing?


This is exactly what I am experiencing. I read that Elmer's glue works as a thread sealer so I'm trying that on my current leak test.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is exactly what I am experiencing. I read that Elmer's glue works as a thread sealer so I'm trying that on my current leak test.


Ok, so the threads aren't stripped, it is simply that you can not screw the fitting in tight enough. Is that correct?

There are three schools of thought on this. The first one recommended by Bryan (after he saw what I did and had a heart attack) escapes me....... The second one is to use a thicker o-ring with the same inner diameter. What I did was use a fitting no o-ring to deepen the thread - tighten the fitting, back it out, tighten, back out and repeat. Since the top is acetal it will go a little deeper each time, it takes some time and patience.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, so the threads aren't stripped, it is simply that you can not screw the fitting in tight enough. Is that correct?
> 
> There are three schools of thought on this. The first one recommended by Bryan (after he saw what I did and had a heart attack) escapes me....... The second one is to use a thicker o-ring with the same inner diameter. What I did was use a fitting no o-ring to deepen the thread - tighten the fitting, back it out, tighten, back out and repeat. Since the top is acetal it will go a little deeper each time, it takes some time and patience.


My threads are stripping, but I managed to get the fitting in. The leak was likely due to the o ring not sealing like you said. I ended up apllying some Elmer's glue and resetting the fitting. This combo passed my leak test. With that said I will be keeping an eye on it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> My threads are stripping, but I managed to get the fitting in. The leak was likely due to the o ring not sealing like you said. I ended up apllying some Elmer's glue and resetting the fitting. This combo passed my leak test. With that said I will be keeping an eye on it.


i would double the o ring before i used glue...but if you're threads are stripped double o ring might not have helped


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

is it leaking from your block? I just RMA my unit since the pump failed and got a new one today. I feel like tightening the fittings more but not sure if I would somehow crack the block. I'm thinking I just hand tight them.

Good news tho is that if you add the dyes given it won't void the warranty.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> is it leaking from your block? I just RMA my unit since the pump failed and got a new one today. I feel like tightening the fittings more but not sure if I would somehow crack the block. I'm thinking I just hand tight them.
> 
> Good news tho is that if you add the dyes given it won't void the warranty.


I would just be very steady/careful when screwing in the fittings. Try to come at it from a vertical angle and be sure they are straight. I think what might have caused my problem is I was off to one side and that caused the threads to not line up, even though the fitting turned. All is good now luckily. Although this would have been a good excuse to upgrade to a Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

wow that watercooler heatkiller IV pro is a very nice looking block and thanks for that heads up


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> wow that watercooler heatkiller IV pro is a very nice looking block and thanks for that heads up


It's also pretty much the best thermally performing CPU block out there. I mean like damn... https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18664500

Lol damn you autocorrect.


----------



## TheChankWhoGank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It's also pretty much the best thermally performing CPU blockblut there. I mean like damn... https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18664500


damn, good performance too. That block is actually really good looking, pretty tempted now....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It's also pretty much the best thermally performing CPU block out there. I mean like damn... https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18664500
> 
> Lol damn you autocorrect.


Most tests show it around a degree better than the EVO, two better than the XL. There is something very wrong with the XL results in that review.


----------



## rfarmer

They make some really nice looking GPU blocks too, I am hoping they have one out for the 1080/1070 when I get my new card.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Most tests show it around a degree better than the EVO, two better than the XL. There is something very wrong with the XL results in that review.


Nope, I stand by it. Did it multiple times too, and others reported the XL being similarly worse (see Extremerigs, or even Moonman's tests here).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nope, I stand by it. Did it multiple times too, and others reported the XL being similarly worse (see Extremerigs, or even Moonman's tests here).


Interesting. I tested two samples each of the XL, EVO and Raystorm on a 4770K. All within 2 degrees. Maybe just not enough heat for it, combined with the lousy Haskell heat transfer.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Interesting. I tested two samples each of the XL, EVO and Raystorm on a 4770K. All within 2 degrees. Maybe just not enough heat for it, combined with the lousy Haskell heat transfer.


I find any cooling tests not done on soldered cpus totally random, erratic and ultimately of no use. The variable thickness of glue will make the same cpu block cool 5-10C worse/better on another sample easily, so wont be that usefull even for the bulk of ppl that own mainstream intel of last 3 gens.

Pure cooling capability can be better tested through HEDT + sandybridge mainstream cpus.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It's also pretty much the best thermally performing CPU block out there. I mean like damn... https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18664500
> 
> Lol damn you autocorrect.


Since it is so hard to get a hold of the new block by Swiftech I may have to go with that one.

Unfortunately the all copper one seems to be eluding me for purchase. Are the Acetal or Acrylic ones just as good?


----------



## VSG

Yes


----------



## GraveDigger7878

I will be taking my system apart soon for maintenance. I have a H240x based loop that has been running for 1 year and 7 months with thousands of hours of run time. I will try and take some pictures if anyone is interested. I have been extremely pleased so far with all my swiftech products.


----------



## ivoryg37

I have a h220x, I drained the loop and ran distilled through it for 24 hour then proceeded to change tubing to XSPC flx tubing and XSPC clear coolant. It's been about 4-6 month and the coolant turned bluish. Is there any reason the coolant would turn blue? Is it algae or something


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I will be taking my system apart soon for maintenance. I have a H240x based loop that has been running for 1 year and 7 months with thousands of hours of run time. I will try and take some pictures if anyone is interested. I have been extremely pleased so far with all my swiftech products.


sure, i'd apprecieate pics, so i have some idea of what to expect when i get around to doing a year or so from now


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have a h220x, I drained the loop and ran distilled through it for 24 hour then proceeded to change tubing to XSPC flx tubing and XSPC clear coolant. It's been about 4-6 month and the coolant turned bluish. Is there any reason the coolant would turn blue? Is it algae or something


Not algae. XSPC clear always turns light blue after several months. Nothing to worry about. I had it happen to me a few times and am going to give the clear Mayhems a go with my next maintenance.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not algae. XSPC clear always turns light blue after several months. Nothing to worry about. I had it happen to me a few times and am going to give the clear Mayhems a go with my next maintenance.


algae would be green...and slimy if it had gotten to the point it colored the water


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> algae would be green...and slimy if it had gotten to the point it colored the water


Exactly. Many "clear" coolants turn slightly blue over time. I would imagine that it is due to the inclusion of copper sulfate as a biocide - that is a supposition, as it sems very, very obvious. Anyone who has ever maintained a pond has seen it.


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks for the quick response! I end up flushing the radiator and changing tubing to primochill advance lrt and changing the coolant to mayhem clear. Hopefully the mayhem clear doesn't turn blue


----------



## wes1099

Does anyone have tips for filling the h220x? I have been trying for hours to get an air bubble out of the reservoir but it is really stuck in there and I can't get it to move to the fill port.


Spoiler: Warning: Extraordinarily Large Image


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wes1099*
> 
> Does anyone have tips for filling the h220x? I have been trying for hours to get an air bubble out of the reservoir but it is really stuck in there and I can't get it to move to the fill port.


I always used a wash bottle (https://www.amazon.com/ACM-Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical/dp/B00WTHLR2M/). You can then put the nozzle down into the reservoir area and put the fluid into the bubble area, which will force the bubble up to the fill port. It was an awful time trying to get rid of that last bubble without it.


----------



## GraveDigger7878

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I always used a wash bottle (https://www.amazon.com/ACM-Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical/dp/B00WTHLR2M/). You can then put the nozzle down into the reservoir area and put the fluid into the bubble area, which will force the bubble up to the fill port. It was an awful time trying to get rid of that last bubble without it.


I can attest, that method works perfectly


----------



## wes1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I always used a wash bottle (https://www.amazon.com/ACM-Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical/dp/B00WTHLR2M/). You can then put the nozzle down into the reservoir area and put the fluid into the bubble area, which will force the bubble up to the fill port. It was an awful time trying to get rid of that last bubble without it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveDigger7878*
> 
> I can attest, that method works perfectly


Sounds good. I will get one of those and try it sometime later.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I always used a wash bottle (https://www.amazon.com/ACM-Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical/dp/B00WTHLR2M/). You can then put the nozzle down into the reservoir area and put the fluid into the bubble area, which will force the bubble up to the fill port. It was an awful time trying to get rid of that last bubble without it.


i used a syringe with a curved tip for the last little bit but now that ive replaced my window with the bleed screw...ill be getting one of these if the other pump wont force that bubble through to my res


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i used a syringe with a curved tip for the last little bit but now that ive replaced my window with the bleed screw...ill be getting one of these if the other pump wont force that bubble through to my res


As I have said before I only use a funnel and cycle the power on and off and it works great so far. I turn the power to the pump on and it runs, but when I shut it off air jumps to the fill hole. I leave a little distilled in the funnel as I am doing this but this method works great so far.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> As I have said before I only use a funnel and cycle the power on and off and it works great so far. I turn the power to the pump on and it runs, but when I shut it off air jumps to the fill hole. I leave a little distilled in the funnel as I am doing this but this method works great so far.


i fill my loop up 100 percent...i dont leave air gaps at the top of my secondary res...i like to be able to look at the res and ensure i havent lost any water anywhere...the only problem with cycling like that is it can introduce mocro bubbles into the impeller...but without help this is imo the best way as well...im going to try when filling this time to have a continuous pour and not have to cycle...hoping this allows air to fill blocks/rads uniformly and make bleeding easier...we will see...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i fill my loop up 100 percent...i dont leave air gaps at the top of my secondary res...i like to be able to look at the res and ensure i havent lost any water anywhere...the only problem with cycling like that is it can introduce mocro bubbles into the impeller...but without help this is imo the best way as well...im going to try when filling this time to have a continuous pour and not have to cycle...hoping this allows air to fill blocks/rads uniformly and make bleeding easier...we will see...


There are no micro bubbles in my loop. After I believe the loop is full I seal the unit and turn it upside down and every which way to make sure. It has worked great so far. But I do not have a second res, I just use my 240X with my CPU. When I get a 1080Ti I want one with a water block. I will have that on a separate loop. Not sure yet what I am going to use in this second loop as it can't be one of the Swictech AIOs because it will be mounted on the bottom of the case.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There are no micro bubbles in my loop. After I believe the loop is full I seal the unit and turn it upside down and every which way to make sure. It has worked great so far. But I do not have a second res, I just use my 240X with my CPU. When I get a 1080Ti I want one with a water block. I will have that on a separate loop. Not sure yet what I am going to use in this second loop as it can't be one of the Swictech AIOs because it will be mounted on the bottom of the case.


things change when you have more rads and blocks and fittings...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> things change when you have more rads and blocks and fittings...


Yeah so I figured, which is why I am planning on a separate loop for my GPU(s). I want to also cool the MB but I really do not see how it would make any kind of difference since my 4930k is limited to 4.3 ghz max OC and I run that perfectly fine with the set up I have now. Consequently I am unable to run 4.4 ghz for more than a few minutes and I get a BSOD.
If I do end up using the intel tuning plan to replace my cpu and the replacement works better, I may then cool the MB and will probably combine that in the loop with the CPU but with quick disconnects.

Though at that point I would probably need a second res to make filling and draining easier.


----------



## Pegasus

So I've now got a brand new H240x2 prestige which I'm more than happy with but I'm already thinking of expanding it. When it comes to watercooling I've only used AIO's before but from what I understand my prestige model has quick disconnects so adding in a GPU block and radiator should be really simple? The only thing is I can't find a guide on how to disconnect the tube from the waterblock so I was wondering if I could get some advice on here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> So I've now got a brand new H240x2 prestige which I'm more than happy with but I'm already thinking of expanding it. When it comes to watercooling I've only used AIO's before but from what I understand my prestige model has quick disconnects so adding in a GPU block and radiator should be really simple? The only thing is I can't find a guide on how to disconnect the tube from the waterblock so I was wondering if I could get some advice on here.


There are no quick disconnects on the Prestige models, they are compression fittings. Adding a block and a rad is a pretty simple process, and you will need the following:

4 - 3/8 x 5/8" compression fittings
GPU Block for your specific GPU
Radiator
3/8 x 5/8" tubing - preferably Primochill Advanced LRT
Coolant - 1 liter should be sufficient
Additional reservoir - completely optional, but they are the look that most people like, and in many cases make filling and bleeding easier - can you list out your setup with the location of the H240?
A Tattoo artists wash bottle like this (not kidding here, makes filling much, much easier) - https://www.amazon.com/DCDEAL-Condiment-Cleaning-Transparent-Container/dp/B010Q2815W/

I will look around and see if I can find a decent guide to expanding, or perhaps some one here has already written one up. I know that @Madmaxneo changes his setup and drains and refills about every two hours (or it least it seems that often







), so he can likely give you some good pointers on much of this.


----------



## confed

Did Swiftech take down the videos on their site? They had videos that showed how to flush and expand your AIO units.

EDIT: I was wrong, they only have a video for the original H220 on their website. It leads to Rouchon's Youtube channel. As you have different fittings and other pieces, it could not be followed 100%. Anyway, here it is


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> So I've now got a brand new H240x2 prestige which I'm more than happy with but I'm already thinking of expanding it. When it comes to watercooling I've only used AIO's before but from what I understand my prestige model has quick disconnects so adding in a GPU block and radiator should be really simple? The only thing is I can't find a guide on how to disconnect the tube from the waterblock so I was wondering if I could get some advice on here.


What @ciarlatano said. For coolant you can just use distilled water and a simple additive like the Mayhems XT-1 that I use. Others will have more suggestions. If you need links then ask and someone will post some for you, You may get a lot of opinions on the different parts and coolant. Since you are a beginner like I was not to long ago I would make it as simple as possible then work your way up. It is not that hard to add or change your loop, but patience is important. Take your time and do it right. Before you actually start ask questions on here. If you have a second PC or another way of posting here you can do so while you are working on your loop. Answers may not come quick though. But they will come.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are no quick disconnects on the Prestige models, they are compression fittings. Adding a block and a rad is a pretty simple process, and you will need the following:
> 
> 4 - 3/8 x 5/8" compression fittings
> GPU Block for your specific GPU
> Radiator
> 3/8 x 5/8" tubing - preferably Primochill Advanced LRT
> Coolant - 1 liter should be sufficient
> Additional reservoir - completely optional, but they are the look that most people like, and in many cases make filling and bleeding easier - can you list out your setup with the location of the H240?
> A Tattoo artists wash bottle like this (not kidding here, makes filling much, much easier) - https://www.amazon.com/DCDEAL-Condiment-Cleaning-Transparent-Container/dp/B010Q2815W/
> 
> I will look around and see if I can find a decent guide to expanding, or perhaps some one here has already written one up. I know that @Madmaxneo changes his setup and drains and refills about every two hours (or it least it seems that often
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so he can likely give you some good pointers on much of this.


LOL, yeah that was a few months ago. All is well now and working great and I have not touched my loop since. Switching to the Primochill advanced LRT tubing was probably my best move so far. That and adding a single 80mm fan to the bottom two external drive bays of my Phantom 820, it literally dropped my core temps like 3 degrees at idle.


----------



## shamus20

for anyone who wants to know the h220x2 does fit in the inwin 805
i do have a question about the dyes that it comes with, i want to use the green dye to match the cpu cooler and gpu. has anyone done this on the x2? is there any tips?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> 
> 
> for anyone who wants to know the h220x2 does fit in the inwin 805
> i do have a question about the dyes that it comes with, i want to use the green dye to match the cpu cooler and gpu. has anyone done this on the x2? is there any tips?


i would hope so it looks like you could fit a 480 in there


----------



## Pegasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are no quick disconnects on the Prestige models, they are compression fittings. Adding a block and a rad is a pretty simple process, and you will need the following:
> 
> 4 - 3/8 x 5/8" compression fittings
> GPU Block for your specific GPU
> Radiator
> 3/8 x 5/8" tubing - preferably Primochill Advanced LRT
> Coolant - 1 liter should be sufficient
> Additional reservoir - completely optional, but they are the look that most people like, and in many cases make filling and bleeding easier - can you list out your setup with the location of the H240?
> A Tattoo artists wash bottle like this (not kidding here, makes filling much, much easier) - https://www.amazon.com/DCDEAL-Condiment-Cleaning-Transparent-Container/dp/B010Q2815W/
> 
> I will look around and see if I can find a decent guide to expanding, or perhaps some one here has already written one up. I know that @Madmaxneo changes his setup and drains and refills about every two hours (or it least it seems that often
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so he can likely give you some good pointers on much of this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Did Swiftech take down the videos on their site? They had videos that showed how to flush and expand your AIO units.
> 
> EDIT: I was wrong, they only have a video for the original H220 on their website. It leads to Rouchon's Youtube channel. As you have different fittings and other pieces, it could not be followed 100%. Anyway, here it is


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> What @ciarlatano said. For coolant you can just use distilled water and a simple additive like the Mayhems XT-1 that I use. Others will have more suggestions. If you need links then ask and someone will post some for you, You may get a lot of opinions on the different parts and coolant. Since you are a beginner like I was not to long ago I would make it as simple as possible then work your way up. It is not that hard to add or change your loop, but patience is important. Take your time and do it right. Before you actually start ask questions on here. If you have a second PC or another way of posting here you can do so while you are working on your loop. Answers may not come quick though. But they will come.
> LOL, yeah that was a few months ago. All is well now and working great and I have not touched my loop since. Switching to the Primochill advanced LRT tubing was probably my best move so far. That and adding a single 80mm fan to the bottom two external drive bays of my Phantom 820, it literally dropped my core temps like 3 degrees at idle.


Thanks for the helpful posts.

I saw that video but it's for an older model so I wasn't quite sure how you get the fittings off on this cooler. I thought all the Lok seal fittings were quick disconnect, it's a shame they don't have quick disconnect model AIO's, I liked that about the EK Predator coolers but I don't like the aesthetic of those coolers at all personally.

Multi reservoir sounds good but I'd have to figure out where to put the second one. For my configuration I have a corsair 750d with the h240 mounted at the top.

For coolant I saw mayhem do premixed coloured coolants, are these not as good as simply using distilled water with dye?

The list of components and fittings you've written out is really helpful but to be honest I'm nervous about having a go at this without a good guide for this specific cooler so if someone could help me find one I might have a go at expanding. I'm really up for it because some GPU blocks look beautiful, like the new one swiftech have just brought out for the GTX 1070.

Honestly I've been building computers since I was 10 years old but liquid cooling is something I've never gotten involved with other than AIO's but I kind of want to learn and get involved with it more so any help you guys could offer would be amazing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> Thanks for the helpful posts.
> 
> I saw that video but it's for an older model so I wasn't quite sure how you get the fittings off on this cooler. I thought all the Lok seal fittings were quick disconnect, it's a shame they don't have quick disconnect model AIO's, I liked that about the EK Predator coolers but I don't like the aesthetic of those coolers at all personally.


Meh, QDs are a potential leak point, and typically don't save much when it comes time to fill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> Multi reservoir sounds good but I'd have to figure out where to put the second one. For my configuration I have a corsair 750d with the h240 mounted at the top.
> 
> For coolant I saw mayhem do premixed coloured coolants, are these not as good as simply using distilled water with dye?


Use the premix, or the concentrate+distilled. Same thing after it's mixed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pegasus*
> 
> The list of components and fittings you've written out is really helpful but to be honest I'm nervous about having a go at this without a good guide for this specific cooler so if someone could help me find one I might have a go at expanding. I'm really up for it because some GPU blocks look beautiful, like the new one swiftech have just brought out for the GTX 1070.
> 
> Honestly I've been building computers since I was 10 years old but liquid cooling is something I've never gotten involved with other than AIO's but I kind of want to learn and get involved with it more so any help you guys could offer would be amazing.


I'll keep looking for a guide. But, I will say this, it is very understandable to be nervous about it, but patience and common sense make it very simple. When you're done you will probably find yourself saying "wait, that's all there is to it??????".


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheChankWhoGank*
> 
> wow that watercooler heatkiller IV pro is a very nice looking block and thanks for that heads up


Just double checking, is there an air bleed screw on H240X models that don't have a bleed screw directly on the res? If yes, where?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just double checking, is there an air bleed screw on H240X models that don't have a bleed screw directly on the res? If yes, where?


No, bleeding is done with the fill port.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

Hi, I don't want to seem like a complete noob but I am 13 years old and I want to expand into liquid cooling my computer. I have been mowing lawns all spring/summer/fall for almost 3 years now and last year I built my first gaming computer with the X99 ASUS SABERTOOTH and INTEL I7 5820k, with a ASUS 980TI 3 fan cooler. Now that I have saved up around $500 extra dollars I would Like to start watercooling but I feel like it's a bit scary and risky. Can somebody help guide me into building a full water cooling Computer. the rest of my money I am putting for schooling in t he future so 500 is all i have. I was thinking about getting H220X2 and getting a water block from Video Card. What other parts would I need? and how DO i fill the H220X2, i watched videos and it said to fill a reservoir then turn on the pump if the pump is underneath the water but on this cooling kit it shows the pump to the side. Is there a trick to put more water in the cooler? and How would I put a silver coil into the cooler?

Thanks to anyone that can help me, I'm sorry If i might be taking too much time from everybody here.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just double checking, is there an air bleed screw on H240X models that don't have a bleed screw directly on the res? If yes, where?


the bleed screw was removed from the windows last year as was said its all done through the fillport now...to be fair the bleed screw never worked as intended anyway...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> Hi, I don't want to seem like a complete noob but I am 13 years old and I want to expand into liquid cooling my computer. I have been mowing lawns all spring/summer/fall for almost 3 years now and last year I built my first gaming computer with the X99 ASUS SABERTOOTH and INTEL I7 5820k, with a ASUS 980TI 3 fan cooler. Now that I have saved up around $500 extra dollars I would Like to start watercooling but I feel like it's a bit scary and risky. Can somebody help guide me into building a full water cooling Computer. the rest of my money I am putting for schooling in t he future so 500 is all i have. I was thinking about getting H220X2 and getting a water block from Video Card. What other parts would I need? and how DO i fill the H220X2, i watched videos and it said to fill a reservoir then turn on the pump if the pump is underneath the water but on this cooling kit it shows the pump to the side. Is there a trick to put more water in the cooler? and How would I put a silver coil into the cooler?
> 
> Thanks to anyone that can help me, I'm sorry If i might be taking too much time from everybody here.


You should get plenty of help here. Big question I have is what case are you using? Knowing that will help with recommendations on components and the easiest way to set up for filling.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You should get plenty of help here. Big question I have is what case are you using? Knowing that will help with recommendations on components and the easiest way to set up for filling.


uhm this is kinda embarrassing but I don't know what my case is exactly now... can't remember but its Phanteks Enthoo something, its the one with lights


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> uhm this is kinda embarrassing but I don't know what my case is exactly now... can't remember but its Phanteks Enthoo something, its the one with lights


Most Phanteks cases are Enthoo, and several have lights. Take a look here http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Series.html

Good thing is that Phanteks are very water cooling friendly.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Most Phanteks cases are Enthoo, and several have lights. Take a look here http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Series.html
> 
> Good thing is that Phanteks are very water cooling friendly.


oh thanks for helping me out! It's the black Enthoo Luxe


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> Hi, I don't want to seem like a complete noob but I am 13 years old and I want to expand into liquid cooling my computer. I have been mowing lawns all spring/summer/fall for almost 3 years now and last year I built my first gaming computer with the X99 ASUS SABERTOOTH and INTEL I7 5820k, with a ASUS 980TI 3 fan cooler. Now that I have saved up around $500 extra dollars I would Like to start watercooling but I feel like it's a bit scary and risky. Can somebody help guide me into building a full water cooling Computer. the rest of my money I am putting for schooling in t he future so 500 is all i have. I was thinking about getting H220X2 and getting a water block from Video Card. What other parts would I need? and how DO i fill the H220X2, i watched videos and it said to fill a reservoir then turn on the pump if the pump is underneath the water but on this cooling kit it shows the pump to the side. Is there a trick to put more water in the cooler? and How would I put a silver coil into the cooler?
> 
> Thanks to anyone that can help me, I'm sorry If i might be taking too much time from everybody here.


Ok what I would is get the H320 X2 you can fit a 360 rad at the top of the Luxe and the 5820k produce quiet a bit of heat especially if it is OCed. If you go with the H220-X2 I would suggest an additional radiator. The Swiftech are easy to expand, you will need some additional tubing 3/8 X 5/8 and if you want to change colors or type you can do that now. You will need additional fittings, if you are getting the Prestige I would get matching compression fittings. Same as tubing 3/8ID X 5/8OD. If non Prestige you can just get 3/8 barbs and clamps, all up to you.

As far as filling goes they come pre filled, since you are expanding you will need to empty the reservoir. Just empty in a clean container and reuse. When it comes time to fill you will need to reuse the original coolant and add some distilled water. The fill port is on the right side, when I did mine I just laid my case on the side so the port was at the top. You will need to jump your PSU so you can run the pump without booting the computer, just fill reservoir, run pump, repeat. You might need to move the case around to get any trapped air out.

Water cooling is not nearly as scary as it looks, just plan ahead and take your time. You also want to leak test for 24 hours to be on the safe side.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> oh thanks for helping me out! It's the black Enthoo Luxe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Ok what I would is get the H320 X2 you can fit a 360 rad at the top of the Luxe and the 5820k produce quiet a bit of heat especially if it is OCed. If you go with the H220-X2 I would suggest an additional radiator. The Swiftech are easy to expand, you will need some additional tubing 3/8 X 5/8 and if you want to change colors or type you can do that now. You will need additional fittings, if you are getting the Prestige I would get matching compression fittings. Same as tubing 3/8ID X 5/8OD. If non Prestige you can just get 3/8 barbs and clamps, all up to you.
> 
> As far as filling goes they come pre filled, since you are expanding you will need to empty the reservoir. Just empty in a clean container and reuse. When it comes time to fill you will need to reuse the original coolant and add some distilled water. The fill port is on the right side, when I did mine I just laid my case on the side so the port was at the top. You will need to jump your PSU so you can run the pump without booting the computer, just fill reservoir, run pump, repeat. You might need to move the case around to get any trapped air out.
> 
> Water cooling is not nearly as scary as it looks, just plan ahead and take your time. You also want to leak test for 24 hours to be on the safe side.


All solid advice, but let me add to it and make a tweak. First the tweak - yes, you can fit a 320 in the Luxe, but the res gets hidden (there goes your really cool looks) and filling will be more difficult. The H240-X2 Prestige, on the other hand, fits like a glove and has nearly the same cooling capacity. With this, you will have compression fittings already installed to make expansion a little easier, and you will have enough room at the front to run a fill line that will be easily accessible and will stay hidden when not in use. Having a fill line will make your world far easier when filling and topping off in the case. The reservoir will be completely visible and will look great.

You _can_ reuse the original coolant and add some distilled. Personally, I have always changed out the coolant and tubes when expanding, but that is a personal choice.

You asked about a kill coil, and the answer here is "don't use one". Use pre-mix or concentrate+distilled that will have biocide in it, as well as anti-corrosives and anti-scaling.

Adding a drain would also make your life easier for maintenance.

So, your shopping list would be as follows:


I don't believe I missed anything other than a bottle of distilled water that you can pick up at the local supermarket for ~$2. I may have, and someone will be sure to jump in and point it out.

The third compression fitting will attach to the fill port with a piece of hose to the valve. You can pop the top grill off the Luxe to raise it above he unit to fill, and you would turn the case upside down and use it as a drain during maintenance. It would get tucked away up front when not in use.

I hope that helped.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> All solid advice, but let me add to it and make a tweak. First the tweak - yes, you can fit a 320 in the Luxe, but the res gets hidden (there goes your really cool looks) and filling will be more difficult. The H240-X2 Prestige, on the other hand, fits like a glove and has nearly the same cooling capacity. With this, you will have compression fittings already installed to make expansion a little easier, and you will have enough room at the front to run a fill line that will be easily accessible and will stay hidden when not in use. Having a fill line will make your world far easier when filling and topping off in the case. The reservoir will be completely visible and will look great.
> 
> You _can_ reuse the original coolant and add some distilled. Personally, I have always changed out the coolant and tubes when expanding, but that is a personal choice.
> 
> You asked about a kill coil, and the answer here is "don't use one". Use pre-mix or concentrate+distilled that will have biocide in it, as well as anti-corrosives and anti-scaling.
> 
> Adding a drain would also make your life easier for maintenance.
> 
> So, your shopping list would be as follows:
> 
> 
> I don't believe I missed anything other than a bottle of distilled water that you can pick up at the local supermarket for ~$2. I may have, and someone will be sure to jump in and point it out.
> 
> The third compression fitting will attach to the fill port with a piece of hose to the valve. You can pop the top grill off the Luxe to raise it above he unit to fill, and you would turn the case upside down and use it as a drain during maintenance. It would get tucked away up front when not in use.
> 
> I hope that helped.


Nice one ciarlatano, I didn't realize that the reservoir would be hidden. All within his budget too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Nice one ciarlatano, I didn't realize that the reservoir would be hidden. All within his budget too.


I should have also mentioned that fitting, tubing and coolant colors can all be changed to user preference. And *NO* pastels in the Swiftechs......unless you like replacing the pump and having stained components.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

I would like to thank everyone for the help and rfarmer for making a list for me to buy, but i have one question. how Would i go about draining and refilling the the kit with everything else installed, I was googling and notice I need some sort of quick disconnect plus a drain valve on the bottom of the pump, how would I configure this with the pump being on the res since there is a line going down to the cpu and gpu?
I'm anxious but I can't wait to start this project.

I am very grateful to everybody that has given me such good advice, and I'm sorry for being the biggest noob here!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> I would like to thank everyone for the help and rfarmer for making a list for me to buy, but i have one question. how Would i go about draining and refilling the the kit with everything else installed, I was googling and notice I need some sort of quick disconnect plus a drain valve on the bottom of the pump, how would I configure this with the pump being on the res since there is a line going down to the cpu and gpu?
> I'm anxious but I can't wait to start this project.
> 
> I am very grateful to everybody that has given me such good advice, and I'm sorry for being the biggest noob here!


Read my post with the shopping list again. I explained the basic concept there. You will use the fill as the drain also. No need for quick disconnects.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> I would like to thank everyone for the help and rfarmer for making a list for me to buy, but i have one question. how Would i go about draining and refilling the the kit with everything else installed, I was googling and notice I need some sort of quick disconnect plus a drain valve on the bottom of the pump, how would I configure this with the pump being on the res since there is a line going down to the cpu and gpu?
> I'm anxious but I can't wait to start this project.
> 
> I am very grateful to everybody that has given me such good advice, and I'm sorry for being the biggest noob here!


Thanks for the credit but it was actually ciarlatano that made up the parts list.


----------



## Caos

HELLO I have a h220x2 prestige, now I want to change my corsair 780t by Enthoo Pro M Phanteks acrylic window. my question is if it goes well the h220x2 in phantek? someone already settled in the case? thanks

I want to install on top


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> HELLO I have a h220x2 prestige, now I want to change my corsair 780t by Enthoo Pro M Phanteks acrylic window. my question is if it goes well the h220x2 in phantek? someone already settled in the case? thanks
> 
> I want to install on top


It fits with no issue, and looks great in the Pro M Acrylic.


----------



## shadow85

Don't know if this has been answered. But I have a H240-X currently connected to my i7-5930K only, and I want to grab 2x GTX 1080s soon.

Can I expand the H240-X and add waterblocks to the 1080s and connect it to the H240-X?

Im willing to add more radiators, I have a Corsair Obsidian 800D case.

If this is possible, will it be difficult. I am a water noob, never done expansion/custom builds, only AIO. And also will the H240-X pump be sufficient for this setup?

Thank you if anyone can answer.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Don't know if this has been answered. But I have a H240-X currently connected to my i7-5930K only, and I want to grab 2x GTX 1080s soon.
> 
> Can I expand the H240-X and add waterblocks to the 1080s and connect it to the H240-X?
> 
> Im willing to add more radiators, I have a Corsair Obsidian 800D case.
> 
> If this is possible, will it be difficult. I am a water noob, never done expansion/custom builds, only AIO. And also will the H240-X pump be sufficient for this setup?
> 
> Thank you if anyone can answer.


The pump was designed to accommodate the addition of two blocks plus radiator, so you are covered there. You will need an additional radiator when adding the two GPU, preferably a 280mm or 360mm to keep temps low with at lower noise levels.


----------



## bluedevil

Gotta say, this little pump in the H240-X2 Prestige of mine, is a workhorse.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump was designed to accommodate the addition of two blocks plus radiator, so you are covered there. You will need an additional radiator when adding the two GPU, preferably a 280mm or 360mm to keep temps low with at lower noise levels.


Anywhere I can find guides on how to do this (prefrably videos)? I don't have a clue about expanding the H240-X.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Anyone else surprised at how fast the tube's on the prestige are turning hazy, I've had mine a few months from the factory without dye and the tubes are very hard to see through now. My rez is crystal clear, just the tubes have changed.

As far as new tube's, what's the best clear flex tubes a person could buy?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Anyone else surprised at how fast the tube's on the prestige are turning hazy, I've had mine a few months from the factory without dye and the tubes are very hard to see through now. My rez is crystal clear, just the tubes have changed.
> 
> As far as new tube's, what's the best clear flex tubes a person could buy?


No one who has used clear tubing flexible tubing will be surprised. It is common.


----------



## ssgtnubb

I know, I'm thinking of sleeving my tubing, I've seen a few on here do that and I think it looks pretty slick.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I know, I'm thinking of sleeving my tubing, I've seen a few on here do that and I think it looks pretty slick.


Why not change out to colored tubing? It's a great excuse to cut the tubing to proper length for your build to make it look cleaner.


----------



## ssgtnubb

True, never thought on that. My case is a two-toned Caselabs S8S, gunmetal on the outside, white on the inside. My board is completely black, having a nice white tube would pop against the black.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I know, I'm thinking of sleeving my tubing, I've seen a few on here do that and I think it looks pretty slick.


I would agree...


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would agree...


Is that yours? Beautiful build, got to admit I like the sleeved tubing.


----------



## Streetdragon

i think the pump in the h240x starts to get problems with 2x 240 Radiator + 2xwaterblock +itself or?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i think the pump in the h240x starts to get problems with 2x 240 Radiator + 2xwaterblock +itself or?


It shouldn't. That will be about the limit, but that setup should be no issue. The pump was designed with that in mind, with over 1 gpm flow and 2m of head pressure.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It shouldn't. That will be about the limit, but that setup should be no issue. The pump was designed with that in mind, with over 1 gpm flow and 2m of head pressure.


I literally have no issue with the pump in CLASSIFIED DEMON, which has 3 radiators and 3 blocks. Handles it no sweat.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Is that yours? Beautiful build, got to admit I like the sleeved tubing.


Yup. It also stiffens up soft tubing and gives it more of a hard tubing look. Only disadvantage is you have to buy fittings that have a smaller ID or bigger OD than your tubing (or vis versa for tubing... same difference lol). Not a huge deal but something to be aware of. I have not tried it with hard tubing so I'm not sure if that would be different.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I literally have no issue with the pump in CLASSIFIED DEMON, which has 3 radiators and 3 blocks. Handles it no sweat.


i second that...i ran mine with three rads and three blocks also...it did well but a second pump made me feel better...and improved flow a lot


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i second that...i ran mine with three rads and three blocks also...it did well but a second pump made me feel better...and improved flow a lot


If I was to redo the build, I would have ran a H240-X2 Prestige (Hard-lined) CPU loop, then a H320-X2 Prestige (Hard-lined) GPU loop. What I am finding is that my 6700K is getting a little warmer due to the Fury X's heat dump.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> If I was to redo the build, I would have ran a H240-X2 Prestige (Hard-lined) CPU loop, then a H320-X2 Prestige (Hard-lined) GPU loop. What I am finding is that my 6700K is getting a little warmer due to the Fury X's heat dump.


yeah i have dual 290s without them cpu sits around 40 with them it's more like 55c...well it was before it better be better this time with a 480 and a 420 both 45+mm thick


----------



## Mark the Bold

So my H220x AIO pump just died. Noticed my $300 CPU was a nice balmy 95C.









Got this thing two years ago, so what do you guys think? Is 2 years a good run for this? Should I replace the pump itself or go with another brand of AIO.

This thing cooled like nobodies business, but my 5 year old H50 is still running 24/7 so I am tempted to go back to Corsair.

Any thoughts / recommendations on my situation? I'm reading the reviews and all modern 240mm AIO seem to perform pretty similar so I am looking for a reliable AIO solution that will last more than 2 years.

Appreciate the advice.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So my H220x AIO pump just died. Noticed my $300 CPU was a nice balmy 95C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got this thing two years ago, so what do you guys think? Is 2 years a good run for this? Should I replace the pump itself or go with another brand of AIO.
> 
> This thing cooled like nobodies business, but my 5 year old H50 is still running 24/7 so I am tempted to go back to Corsair.
> 
> Any thoughts / recommendations on my situation? I'm reading the reviews and all modern 240mm AIO seem to perform pretty similar so I am looking for a reliable AIO solution that will last more than 2 years.
> 
> Appreciate the advice.


I hope I was of some assistance. I'm sorry that I'm not with the company anymore and not doing custom water cooling either.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*
> 
> So my H220x AIO pump just died. Noticed my $300 CPU was a nice balmy 95C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got this thing two years ago, so what do you guys think? Is 2 years a good run for this? Should I replace the pump itself or go with another brand of AIO.
> 
> This thing cooled like nobodies business, but my 5 year old H50 is still running 24/7 so I am tempted to go back to Corsair.
> 
> Any thoughts / recommendations on my situation? I'm reading the reviews and all modern 240mm AIO seem to perform pretty similar so I am looking for a reliable AIO solution that will last more than 2 years.
> 
> Appreciate the advice.


At two years old it is still under warranty, so simply RMA it. The fact that you have a singular Corsair that has had a long life does _not_ mean they are more reliable as a whole, especially the current units that have completely different (read "cheaper", "less reliable", etc) pumps than the H50. If you dig around, you will find that Corsair (and all of the CLCs) have a higher RMA rate than the Swiftechs.

As far as "all modern 240mm AIO seem to perform pretty similar", that is far from true. While a Corsair H100i V2GTX (or whatever they are calling it these days) may only be a few degrees behind when you look at the temp charts, it is also running nearly 20 dB louder to do it. At similar noise levels they are not comparable.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I hope I was of some assistance. I'm sorry that I'm not with the company anymore and not doing custom water cooling either.


we miss you bram...the other rep isnt on here anymore...doesnt look good...hope your endeavors went well so far


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> we miss you bram...the other rep isnt on here anymore...doesnt look good...hope your endeavors went well so far


Not really. My funding for Germany was cut and they substantially raised the amount of money you need on-hand to study there. I'm back in California and currently working for the postal service in San Clemente. I do have an interview next week for an IT position though in Irvine. I'm really hoping to get it because I hate delivering mail. The hours are long and the pay really doesn't cover it. I'm in Lake Forest now, so the commute isn't too bad. Irvine would be much better though. My new system is finished and I'll be posting it to my profile as soon as I finish overclocking it. It's still an AMD based system, just with an FX 8350 and an EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified I got from New Egg when they were on a crazy sale.


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry to hear Bram.

Hope you are well, and get the job.


----------



## zila

Wish the best for you Bram. You are missed.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry to hear Bram.
> 
> Hope you are well, and get the job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Wish the best for you Bram. You are missed.


Thanks guys! I appreciate it.


----------



## shadow85

Is anybody able to make a list of everything I need to expand my H240-X to include a GTX 1080.

Like a shopping list similar to the previous page. I am nub with water cooling. Have no idea what all these names are, barbs, compression fittings etc.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Is anybody able to make a list of everything I need to expand my H240-X to include a GTX 1080.
> 
> Like a shopping list similar to the previous page. I am nub with water cooling. Have no idea what all these names are, barbs, compression fittings etc.


Sure. If you are simply adding the 1080 with nothing else, it is the same list minus the Swiftech and change to the EK 1080 Strix block. If you give us all of your system specs and budget, we can look at it more in depth.


----------



## shadow85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sure. If you are simply adding the 1080 with nothing else, it is the same list minus the Swiftech and change to the EK 1080 Strix block. If you give us all of your system specs and budget, we can look at it more in depth.


Many thanks for the reply.

My system specs
EVGA SuperNova P2 1000W
i7-5930K w/ Swiftech H240-X
X99s-Gaming 7
4x4GB HyperX DDR4 2400MHz

And Corsair 900D case.

ATM I have 2x EVGA GTX 980 Ti Hybrids, but plan on swapping them out for 2x GTX 1080s and adding them both to the H240-X AIO loop. I don't have a set budget, but I don't plan on some krazy overclocking, so I don't need the most expensive parts, just parts that are reliable and adequat to kool a i7-5930K @ 4.2 GHz and 2x GTX 1080s @ ~1900-2000 boost (hopefully).

Or would it be cheaper for me to just get 2x MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk Xs and not worrying about expanding the loop? Lol


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

okay I appreciate the help from the people who helped me out earlier, but now I have another big noob question. I bought the parts that +ciarlatano (not sure if this is how I tag someone)
but I also bought primochill Red Tubes because I researched that dyes stain blocks and the clear tubes get green color(gross). My parts are coming in on monday and I also purchased 2 more fittings and this Y connector and a drain valve.

Can I use the liquid from the H240X2 and add more dilluted water to it ?
Also I saw youtube videos of people putting tubes onto the waterblock when it's installed in the case. Would the force to get the tubes on be too much ? Im worried of the force cracking my cpu or motherboard.
PS I'm getting my daddy and older brother to help me with this big project.

Thank you to everybody for helping a noob like me +)


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> okay I appreciate the help from the people who helped me out earlier, but now I have another big noob question. I bought the parts that +ciarlatano (not sure if this is how I tag someone)
> but I also bought primochill Red Tubes because I researched that dyes stain blocks and the clear tubes get green color(gross). My parts are coming in on monday and I also purchased 2 more fittings and this Y connector and a drain valve.
> 
> Can I use the liquid from the H240X2 and add more dilluted water to it ?
> Also I saw youtube videos of people putting tubes onto the waterblock when it's installed in the case. Would the force to get the tubes on be too much ? Im worried of the force cracking my cpu or motherboard.
> PS I'm getting my daddy and older brother to help me with this big project.
> 
> Thank you to everybody for helping a noob like me +)


You'll want to get new coolant. I wouldn't recommend trying to reuse coolant. I also recommend flushing out your radiators before you put everything back together and refill it. The pressure on the block and motherboard when installing the tubing shouldn't be a problem. It shouldn't take much pressure to install the tubing anyway. I hope this is helpful.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> okay I appreciate the help from the people who helped me out earlier, but now I have another big noob question. I bought the parts that +ciarlatano (not sure if this is how I tag someone)
> but I also bought primochill Red Tubes because I researched that dyes stain blocks and the clear tubes get green color(gross). My parts are coming in on monday and I also purchased 2 more fittings and this Y connector and a drain valve.
> 
> Can I use the liquid from the H240X2 and add more dilluted water to it ?
> Also I saw youtube videos of people putting tubes onto the waterblock when it's installed in the case. Would the force to get the tubes on be too much ? Im worried of the force cracking my cpu or motherboard.
> PS I'm getting my daddy and older brother to help me with this big project.
> 
> Thank you to everybody for helping a noob like me +)


Colored tubing is a far better way to go than dyes.









If you got everything on the list, there was Mayhems X1 concentrate on there, and you will just need to mix it with distilled water. That is your coolant - don't reuse the old.

There was a drain valve on the parts list, and I am not sure what you are planning for the Y connector. Your Luxe makes the fill and drain process incredibly easy with a simple line off the fill port. Try not to overcomplicate your loop.

And listen to everything @BramSLI1 has to say on the matter, he knows more than any poster here on the subject of Swiftech components.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not really. My funding for Germany was cut and they substantially raised the amount of money you need on-hand to study there. I'm back in California and currently working for the postal service in San Clemente. I do have an interview next week for an IT position though in Irvine. I'm really hoping to get it because I hate delivering mail. The hours are long and the pay really doesn't cover it. I'm in Lake Forest now, so the commute isn't too bad. Irvine would be much better though. My new system is finished and I'll be posting it to my profile as soon as I finish overclocking it. It's still an AMD based system, just with an FX 8350 and an EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified I got from New Egg when they were on a crazy sale.


Good to see you back in here bram .
Sorry to hear about your endeavours, things will work out good things happen to good people stay positive.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> okay I appreciate the help from the people who helped me out earlier, but now I have another big noob question. I bought the parts that +ciarlatano (not sure if this is how I tag someone)
> but I also bought primochill Red Tubes because I researched that dyes stain blocks and the clear tubes get green color(gross). My parts are coming in on monday and I also purchased 2 more fittings and this Y connector and a drain valve.
> 
> Can I use the liquid from the H240X2 and add more dilluted water to it ?
> Also I saw youtube videos of people putting tubes onto the waterblock when it's installed in the case. Would the force to get the tubes on be too much ? Im worried of the force cracking my cpu or motherboard.
> PS I'm getting my daddy and older brother to help me with this big project.
> 
> Thank you to everybody for helping a noob like me +)
> 
> 
> 
> Colored tubing is a far better way to go than dyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you got everything on the list, there was Mayhems X1 concentrate on there, and you will just need to mix it with distilled water. That is your coolant - don't reuse the old.
> 
> There was a drain valve on the parts list, and I am not sure what you are planning for the Y connector. Your Luxe makes the fill and drain process incredibly easy with a simple line off the fill port. Try not to overcomplicate your loop.
> 
> And listen to everything @BramSLI1 has to say on the matter, he knows more than any poster here on the subject of Swiftech components.
Click to expand...

both have positives and negatives

neither are better or worse. and like everything right tool for the right job. on top of that- they also both have their maintenance flaws.

by far dyes cause more maint. but is that is ok with "you" then enjoy !


----------



## shadow85

Can I add a new custom pump/reservoir combo aswell as some extra rads to my H240-X loop?


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

Hi again, I'm starting to feel a bit embarrassed now asking so many questions but how tight do I screw in the fittings? Because my hand tight is way different to my dads hand tight screwing them in. I know I shouldn't use tools but I'm worried about stripping ? (If that's the correct term) the water block and radiotor and pump.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> Hi again, I'm starting to feel a bit embarrassed now asking so many questions but how tight do I screw in the fittings? Because my hand tight is way different to my dads hand tight screwing them in. I know I shouldn't use tools but I'm worried about stripping ? (If that's the correct term) the water block and radiotor and pump.


In my experience you tighten the fittings until they stop. There is an obvious point as to when they will not turn anymore.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

ok im back again.... to the person with that sleeved tubing, where did you buy those ? they look very stealthy !


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *13yearOldPCBLDR*
> 
> ok im back again.... to the person with that sleeved tubing, where did you buy those ? they look very stealthy !


That's me. I got it from Performance PC's.

I really like the color. They call if carbon fiber, but it is more of a silver or gun metal with a bit of black thrown in. It picks up light really well. The sleeving is easy enough to find but the pre sleeved extensions are basically out of stock everywhere since Primochill doesn't make this color anymore.



I would also note that it will probably look a little better with black tubing (I have clear). Also, but more than you think you need as it is a bit of a PIA to get the sleeving to be just the right length so it sits just inside the edge of the compression fitting. Finally, when you cut the sleeving, be sure to the ends with a lighter so they don't fray.


----------



## d0mmie

Hey guys it's been a while.

Has anyone here done a H220-X loop with an i7 5820K/5930K/5960X or close to that? I'm curious about gaming/stress temperatures, not necessarily overclocked. I tried searching but got no hits on this, so sorry if this has been brought up before.


----------



## Streetdragon

My 5820k 1,25V/4,25Ghz went while gaming to max 53°. With a H240-X (liquid metal TIM/Dustfilter) so all in all you should see the same temps or even better. Had the old crap tubes, so i already had some gunk in the cooler.

With the loop i have now i have the same temps, but more to cool.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Hey guys it's been a while.
> 
> Has anyone here done a H220-X loop with an i7 5820K/5930K/5960X or close to that? I'm curious about gaming/stress temperatures, not necessarily overclocked. I tried searching but got no hits on this, so sorry if this has been brought up before.


If your not overclocking, it won't come close to breaking a sweat. I've got an h240x on a 5820k @4.4ghz 1.23v (cache is 4.1ghz 1.1v) and mostly see temps between 45 and 55 while gaming, depending on the game i might see spikes up into the low 60s. This is with pretty warm summer time ambient temps.


----------



## d0mmie

Thank you for the answers, but for some reason I completely forgot to mention: A loop consisting of CPU + GTX 1070/1080 without any extra radiators.

I'm very curious about the performance I could get out of that, since I used to run a H240-X with a 780 Ti in a loop which did fairly well (GPU hit about 60C with an i7 5820K). But considering the TDP of the new Pascal series is quite a bit lower, I wonder what the temps would be. The reason is simple as I don't want to add more radiators or anything else to the loop to keep it manageable.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Thank you for the answers, but for some reason I completely forgot to mention: A loop consisting of CPU + GTX 1070/1080 without any extra radiators.
> 
> I'm very curious about the performance I could get out of that, since I used to run a H240-X with a 780 Ti in a loop which did fairly well (GPU hit about 60C with an i7 5820K). But considering the TDP of the new Pascal series is quite a bit lower, I wonder what the temps would be. The reason is simple as I don't want to add more radiators or anything else to the loop to keep it manageable.


I just went from a GTX 970 to a GTX 1070, the 970 hit mid 50's while gaming where as the 1070 max is 42C. These Pascal run nice and cool.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I just went from a GTX 970 to a GTX 1070, the 970 hit mid 50's while gaming where as the 1070 max is 42C. These Pascal run nice and cool.


That's pretty impressive


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> That's pretty impressive


Yeah I was amazed, during my first Firestrike run it was only hitting 38C, I am like that has got to be wrong. Only after extended gaming did it hit 42C. Lowered the max on my CPU from 52C to 48C also.


----------



## blarf

Quick question:
I'm building a system based on a 6700k, Gigabyte z170 gaming 7 in a Phantek enthoo evolv ATX.
Which swiftech model (AIO) would you recommend?
I do plan on overclocking the CPU. I do also plan on putting (maybe) the gtx 1080 under water.

Thank you in advance for your help


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Quick question:
> I'm building a system based on a 6700k, Gigabyte z170 gaming 7 in a Phantek enthoo evolv ATX.
> Which AIO would you recommend?
> I do plan on overclocking the CPU. I do also plan on putting (maybe) the gtx 1080 under water.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help


since you asked on the swiftech thread, i guess i'd recommend a swiftech cooler









i'm no pro, but here's my $0.02

i have that case, the 240x fits great up top. i think it might be enough to handle a 6700 + 1080, but if not, adding a 140 rad would definitely do it (assuming non-insane overclocks)

a 320 up top could work too, but airflow thru the roof can be an issue, there are more options for how to arrange airflow with a 240 up there

so i'd recommend a 240 up top and then (maybe) adding a 140 in the back or lower front when looping the gpu in


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> since you asked on the swiftech thread, i guess i'd recommend a swiftech cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm no pro, but here's my $0.02
> 
> i have that case, the 240x fits great up top. i think it might be enough to handle a 6700 + 1080, but if not, adding a 140 rad would definitely do it (assuming non-insane overclocks)
> 
> a 320 up top could work too, but airflow thru the roof can be an issue, there are more options for how to arrange airflow with a 240 up there
> 
> so i'd recommend a 240 up top and then (maybe) adding a 140 in the back or lower front when looping the gpu in


Yeah sorry.....I meant which swiftest ago


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Quick question:
> I'm building a system based on a 6700k, Gigabyte z170 gaming 7 in a Phantek enthoo evolv ATX.
> Which swiftech model (AIO) would you recommend?
> I do plan on overclocking the CPU. I do also plan on putting (maybe) the gtx 1080 under water.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help


Both the H240-X2 and H320-X2 will fit up top, and both should be capable of handling those components at stock speeds without issue. If you are looking for big OC, you may need to add a second radiator, which the Evolv ATX has plenty of room for.


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Both the H240-X2 and H320-X2 will fit up top, and both should be capable of handling those components at stock speeds without issue. If you are looking for big OC, you may need to add a second radiator, which the Evolv ATX has plenty of room for.


Thank you.
Despite the obvious rad size difference and fan diff., Any other differences between the 2 AIO? I mean is one quieter than the other? Is one cooling better than the other?
I would be looking at purchasing the prestige one (if i can find it), If not prestige, what fans would you recommend for reach?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Thank you.
> Despite the obvious rad size difference and fan diff., Any other differences between the 2 AIO? I mean is one quieter than the other? Is one cooling better than the other?
> I would be looking at purchasing the prestige one (if i can find it), If not prestige, what fans would you recommend for reach?


The 320 has a slightly larger overall surface area, so slightly better ability to dissipate higher heat loads. It is the better choice in a two component system. If you can't find the Prestige, GTS, Vardar, eLoop, Phanteks F120MP are all excellent fans for the application.

The Evolv ATX also has a restrictive top that works much better if you fill the openings to isolate the front and back of the rad. This prevents warm air from recirculating. @doyll did a nice graphic on it. I will post when I get to a computer.


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 320 has a slightly larger overall surface area, so slightly better ability to dissipate higher heat loads. It is the better choice in a two component system. If you can't find the Prestige, GTS, Vardar, eLoop, Phanteks F120MP are all excellent fans for the application.
> 
> The Evolv ATX also has a restrictive top that works much better if you fill the openings to isolate the front and back of the rad. This prevents warm air from recirculating. @doyll did a nice graphic on it. I will post when I get to a computer.


I found the graph from Doyll....Thank you.

Well now I just gotta decided which size.....

Thanks a lot for your help


----------



## XlordB

h240x awesome cooler.. ****ty res window.. ive had 2 res windows.. both developed a crack in them.. fking useless need another replacement murder to get now.


----------



## 13yearOldPCBLDR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> h240x awesome cooler.. ****ty res window.. ive had 2 res windows.. both developed a crack in them.. fking useless need another replacement murder to get now.


I feel your pain ! I got the H320X2 and when it came in from shipping it was leaking and a quarter of the water in the res was GONE!
I got an RMA and the second one came in a disaster the box was ruined too the tube plopped off [email protected]!

i ended up returning everything i bought. will stick with the noctua NH D15 for now and maybe save to buy some parts individually from EKWB or AlphaCOOL

was so excited to do my first water cooling build but now i just don't feel like trusting swiftech due to my experience!!! im so unlucky


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> h240x awesome cooler.. ****ty res window.. ive had 2 res windows.. both developed a crack in them.. fking useless need another replacement murder to get now.


That has happened for me three times as well with my H240-X. I told the seller back then that the unit must have a defect, since the glass was extremely tight fit with the radiator frame. So when the pump starts hitting those high RPM's, there's no place for the vibrations to transfer into, other than directly into the glass. They wouldn't listen, but I'm confident I was right. It's such a shame because all that wasted effort setting up your loop and then getting that issue several times. It can be costly if one isn't careful, hence I made sure I'm insured for water damage in my PC.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> h240x awesome cooler.. ****ty res window.. ive had 2 res windows.. both developed a crack in them.. fking useless need another replacement murder to get now.


I feel you. I was ready to replace it for the third time and this time the screw that holds the reservoir broke off.



Sent swiftech an e-mail last Monday about what happened and I should be getting one today. Was suppose to be here last Friday but things happen..


----------



## XlordB

ive had no reply from swiftech about this issue..


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> ive had no reply from swiftech about this issue..


Try this e-mail. he got back to me very quick
Mackenzy Tea- [email protected]


----------



## XlordB

thanks ill try that


----------



## Mega Man

:/ after Bram imo swiftest is going down hill badly sucks tbh


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> :/ after Bram imo swiftest is going down hill badly sucks tbh


So it seems. There may be some kind of internal struggle going on which could cause the company to completely fail.


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 320 has a slightly larger overall surface area, so slightly better ability to dissipate higher heat loads. It is the better choice in a two component system. If you can't find the Prestige, GTS, Vardar, eLoop, Phanteks F120MP are all excellent fans for the application.
> 
> The Evolv ATX also has a restrictive top that works much better if you fill the openings to isolate the front and back of the rad. This prevents warm air from recirculating. @doyll did a nice graphic on it. I will post when I get to a computer.


Alright i just purchased a noctua nh-d15 in the meantime until I can decide what water cooling solution i want. The more i read about it and the more I think I'm gonna go custom loop....


----------



## Mega Man

"do et"- welcome to the addiction


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> "do et"- welcome to the addiction


I will, I just need to read more about it


----------



## klyzon

just a heads up for people thinking of the h220 x2

this is a post i made on my local forums

some of you might know of my issues with my h220 x2 leaking onto my gpu previously. So I went through the whole process of rma ing the h220x2 and got a replacement last Friday. I also got a new gpu, a 1080 to replace my few months old 980ti which was water damaged. I got it even thought tech dynamic is gonna replace my 980ti.

Was watching Youtube just now when my monitor suddenly went black. I tried rebooting my com and saw through my side window the new h220x2 leaked again!

I immediately switched off my com and took out my gpu. When I unplugged it a pool of coolant dripped out of my 1080.

It is beyond salvage now... I have both 980ti and 1080 both water damaged. Ffs.





red coolant was the first h220 x2 i got, the other 2 pictures are from the second h220 x2


----------



## d0mmie

Word of advice: Get a proper insurance deal in case of water damage.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Word of advice: Get a proper insurance deal in case of water damage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Word of advice: Get a proper insurance deal in case of water damage.


pretty sure no one covers water damage in their warranty


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> pretty sure no one covers water damage in their warranty


I'm not talking about warranty! I'm talking about your home insurance. You can get additions for your insurance so it covers specifically water damage in electronics, i.e. short circuits.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> pretty sure no one covers water damage in their warranty


In most countries consumer protection laws say any damage as a result of defective product is the responsibility of defective product company and/or their retailers.


----------



## Mega Man

Please note i am not blaming you, just curious.

Did you leak check the unit when you got it (the new unit from rma) and how long?
That really sucks and I am sorry: (


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please note i am not blaming you, just curious.
> 
> Did you leak check the unit when you got it (the new unit from rma) and how long?
> That really sucks and I am sorry: (


didn't do a very complete leak check. Just checked visually, installed, ran it for a couple of hours and proceed to close up my case and use it as per normal.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klyzon*
> 
> didn't do a very complete leak check. Just checked visually, installed, ran it for a couple of hours and proceed to close up my case and use it as per normal.


i dont leak test outside the case but i do jump the psu and leak test after install (granted i have a full loop based off the h220x originally) then after a few hours leak free i fire everything up leaving towels in place and stress test the components for a few hours to ensure heat isnt going to cause o ring failure or the like (while watching closely)...but twice man thats horrible...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i dont leak test outside the case but i do jump the psu and leak test after install (granted i have a full loop based off the h220x originally) then after a few hours leak free i fire everything up leaving towels in place and stress test the components for a few hours to ensure heat isnt going to cause o ring failure or the like (while watching closely)...but twice man thats horrible...


Exactly what I do.

Kind of odd that we have three reports of leaking blocks in a 1990 page thread. One was caused by the user changing to a fitting with a deeper thread and not tightening enough. The other two are from the same user. Coincidence of incredible proportions, or a piece of information that is missing?


----------



## d0mmie

I always install my AIO in the front of the case if possible. Since there's usually no electronics there, in case of water damage it will only hit the case floor. But I see the way the H320 X2 is designed it would be perfect as well, since the reservoir wouldn't be sitting above any major components.


----------



## klyzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Exactly what I do.
> 
> Kind of odd that we have three reports of leaking blocks in a 1990 page thread. One was caused by the user changing to a fitting with a deeper thread and not tightening enough. The other two are from the same user. Coincidence of incredible proportions, or a piece of information that is missing?


i would like to say that i'm quite certain there's nothing wrong with my installation process, i blame it simply on bad luck i guess


----------



## Danbeme32

Swiftech support seems to be getting better. I call last week on Monday about my res screws broke while I was trying to take it off. And yesterday got a new one.





But when I took the pump out to replace with the new reservoir I saw these.



I have used distilled water with PT nuke..Twice. and it still turns the water green. This time I brought bottle of primochill and see how that works. Why not try it.








The gpu block was really bad too..


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I have used distilled water with PT nuke..Twice. and it still turns the water green. This time I brought bottle of primochill and see how that works. Why not try it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gpu block was really bad too..


I've always used EK Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L) and I've never seen any discoloration with this. It's actually Mayhems who makes it for EK.


----------



## XlordB

update -- Yay i got a reply from mac and hes sending me a new res window and some coolant..

now heres something i would like to know. to be honest im pretty hopeless at filling this unit because i havent invested in a fill tube, i would really like to put a permanent fill tube on the fill port which i can just take a cap off now and again to fill it up. can somone tell me what i need size wise and maybe link me to the parts i need?? i live in scotland so id prefer to try sourse them from uk places thanks in advance







!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> update -- Yay i got a reply from mac and hes sending me a new res window and some coolant..
> 
> now heres something i would like to know. to be honest im pretty hopeless at filling this unit because i havent invested in a fill tube, i would really like to put a permanent fill tube on the fill port which i can just take a cap off now and again to fill it up. can somone tell me what i need size wise and maybe link me to the parts i need?? i live in scotland so id prefer to try sourse them from uk places thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


What case are you using, and where do you have the unit installed? Seems like an odd question, but it changes the most logical way to do it.


----------



## XlordB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclist*
> 
> You want the air trapped in the res, so you can bleed it. But you need coolant to displace that air. As i said, I found it easier to add a line onto the fill port, then the loop will pull fluid from that line as you open the bleed screw. Just hold the line higher than the res and let gravity do the work. (Keep the line full of fluid) You will need to cap the fill line afterwards some how. Thats how I beat the air bubble beast, there might be other ways, but this worked great for me.


Hiya i know this is a kind of oldish topic but.. could you find the time to possible list a few of the items and sizes i need to actually put a fill tube on the h240-x? im not sure what to buy and how to maybe cap the tube off ? Thanks in advance


----------



## XlordB

The case i am using is a an nzxt phantom the cooler will go up top.theres tons of room where the bays are for a tube.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> The case i am using is a an nzxt phantom the cooler will go up top.theres tons of room where the bays are for a tube.


Great. The important thing is to keep the tube elevated above the radiator if possible. That should be no problem in a Phantom. You could do it as simply as getting two 3/8" x 5/8" fittings, a foot of 3/8 x 5/8 tubing and a simple valve like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-2-way-ball-valve-g1-4-chrome.html. Just get a G1/4 plug as a safeguard to prevent any possible drips when you aren't using it. Pull it out to fill or drain, then tuck it away up in the top of the Phantom when you aren't using it.

And a wash bottle will make your life much easier for filling - http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/phobya-filling-bottle-500ml-pe-ld.html


----------



## XlordB

thanks bud ill look into those items


----------



## XlordB

Which fitting from http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/search?sSearch=swiftech this list do i need to fit onto the actual fill port?? its confusing as ive never used fittings before.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> Which fitting from http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/search?sSearch=swiftech this list do i need to fit onto the actual fill port?? its confusing as ive never used fittings before.


2 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/compression-fittings/1611mm/14156/swiftech-16/11-5/8-x-3/8-anschraubtuelle-lok-seal-g1/4-black

1 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/ball-valves/19018/koolance-ablasshahn-g1/4

1 meter of any of these (more than you need, but it seems to be the smallest length they sell) - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/?p=2&o=20&n=12&f=447%7C471

And a wash bottle. I didn't see one on the site, Amazon will have them. You will go a little crazy trying to fill without one.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Swiftech support seems to be getting better. I call last week on Monday about my res screws broke while I was trying to take it off. And yesterday got a new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But when I took the pump out to replace with the new reservoir I saw these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used distilled water with PT nuke..Twice. and it still turns the water green. This time I brought bottle of primochill and see how that works. Why not try it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gpu block was really bad too..


I had the exact same problem with distilled water and PT Nuke, I switched to Mayhems XT-1 Clear and haven't had a problem.


----------



## XlordB

yep they do a wash bottle on that site thats how i found it lol -...edit - for some strange reason i cant find it again lol oh well







.


----------



## XlordB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 2 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/compression-fittings/1611mm/14156/swiftech-16/11-5/8-x-3/8-anschraubtuelle-lok-seal-g1/4-black
> 
> 1 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/ball-valves/19018/koolance-ablasshahn-g1/4
> 
> 1 meter of any of these (more than you need, but it seems to be the smallest length they sell) - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/?p=2&o=20&n=12&f=447%7C471
> 
> And a wash bottle. I didn't see one on the site, Amazon will have them. You will go a little crazy trying to fill without one.


would I be able to use http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/19933/alphacool-hf-verlaengerung-g1/4-auf-g1/4-20mm-deep-black instead of that g14 drain thing and just put a cap on it? because they are out of stock with the other thing you put up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> would I be able to use http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/19933/alphacool-hf-verlaengerung-g1/4-auf-g1/4-20mm-deep-black instead of that g14 drain thing and just put a cap on it? because they are out of stock with the other thing you put up.


No, that is an extension. You could do a valve like this - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/ball-valves/20260/alphacool-2-wege-kugelhahn-g1/4-black-nickel

With an end plug when not in use - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/seal-und-caps/20668/alphacool-eiszapfen-verschlussschraube-g1/4-deep-black


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> update -- Yay i got a reply from mac and hes sending me a new res window and some coolant..
> 
> now heres something i would like to know. to be honest im pretty hopeless at filling this unit because i havent invested in a fill tube, i would really like to put a permanent fill tube on the fill port which i can just take a cap off now and again to fill it up. can somone tell me what i need size wise and maybe link me to the parts i need?? i live in scotland so id prefer to try sourse them from uk places thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


any , size is not a big concern for fill ports i make them the biggest i can but that is cause i want them to fill quick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Swiftech support seems to be getting better. I call last week on Monday about my res screws broke while I was trying to take it off. And yesterday got a new one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But when I took the pump out to replace with the new reservoir I saw these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used distilled water with PT nuke..Twice. and it still turns the water green. This time I brought bottle of primochill and see how that works. Why not try it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gpu block was really bad too..
> 
> 
> 
> I had the exact same problem with distilled water and PT Nuke, I switched to Mayhems XT-1 Clear and haven't had a problem.
Click to expand...

i find posts like this funny, i been using it in well over 5 systems with some as long as 3 years no changing coolants without any build up...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> yep they do a wash bottle on that site thats how i found it lol -...edit - for some strange reason i cant find it again lol oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


aquacomputer makes one, they also sell it with their fill port
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 2 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/compression-fittings/1611mm/14156/swiftech-16/11-5/8-x-3/8-anschraubtuelle-lok-seal-g1/4-black
> 
> 1 of these - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/ball-valves/19018/koolance-ablasshahn-g1/4
> 
> 1 meter of any of these (more than you need, but it seems to be the smallest length they sell) - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/tubing/tubes/?p=2&o=20&n=12&f=447%7C471
> 
> And a wash bottle. I didn't see one on the site, Amazon will have them. You will go a little crazy trying to fill without one.
> 
> 
> 
> would I be able to use http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/19933/alphacool-hf-verlaengerung-g1/4-auf-g1/4-20mm-deep-black instead of that g14 drain thing and just put a cap on it? because they are out of stock with the other thing you put up.
Click to expand...

you can, just put a end cap on it, ( i use a 45deg fitting on one of my builds for fill tube )


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ive been trying to figure out how so many people are getting residues in their loops like that...i can only surmise its die to clearish tubing and excess sunlight or washing with tap water and not fully flushing or something with the additives....ive been running the same tubing and rads for almost two years and zero deposits on just distilled with zero additives..i have primochill advanced lrt in black so perhaps this helps as light only see the water in the res wi dow or the second res...i dunno...so many have this green and white (plasticizer probably) build ups...my blocks were even clean when i tore down last time...


----------



## v1ral

I Swiftech still gonna sell the adapter fittings?
I've been watching PPCS and Swiftech's website and it's been a while "out of stock"...


----------



## confed

I apologize in advance for formatting as I'm on my phone. My computer has become unusable and after flushing the unit over 10x, every time getting sediment, i decided to dismantle the block on my H220x and find the culprit. Can you fine, fellow members help me understand if this is worth replacing and if so, the best method to clean this? Otherwise i may just pick up the corsair H100i v2 which is available at my local Microcenter for $100. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Streetdragon

Clean the block with a toothbrush and change the tube. Flush the Rad with hot water(not boiling) a few times. Like 10 times. Had the same problem


----------



## michael-ocn

I think that may be plasticizer from the tubing?

I'd take it apart and clean up the block and rad real good and put it back together with new tubing, something like ek zmt and mahem's x1 coolant.

A compressor can blast the gunk out cold plate's fin array or a toothbrush and hot running water. Soaking the plate in vinegar will brighten it up. A 10% vinegar and hot water solution can clean out the rad, fill it, shake it around and let it soak for a few minutes (5 or 10), then flush it out with hot water.

I used primochill sysprep on my fully assembed h240x after noticing biological growth, i let that stuff cycle thru for 12 or 24 hours then flushed with distilled, but if you clean up the components disassembled you shouldn't need to do that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> I apologize in advance for formatting as I'm on my phone. My computer has become unusable and after flushing the unit over 10x, every time getting sediment, i decided to dismantle the block on my H220x and find the culprit. Can you fine, fellow members help me understand if this is worth replacing and if so, the best method to clean this? Otherwise i may just pick up the corsair H100i v2 which is available at my local Microcenter for $100. Thanks for your help!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I think that may be plasticizer from the tubing?
> 
> I'd take it apart and clean up the block and rad real good and put it back together with new tubing, something like ek zmt and mahem's x1 coolant.
> 
> A compressor can blast the gunk out cold plate's fin array or a toothbrush and hot running water. Soaking the plate in vinegar will brighten it up. A 10% vinegar and hot water solution can clean out the rad, fill it, shake it around and let it soak for a few minutes (5 or 10), then flush it out with hot water.
> 
> I used primochill sysprep on my fully assembed h240x after noticing biological growth, i let that stuff cycle thru for 12 or 24 hours then flushed with distilled, but if you clean up the components disassembled you shouldn't need to do that.


Great advice, Michael. That is distinctly platicizer, which was a common issue with that tubing.

@confed, listen to this, and change the tubing. Much cheaper than making a *huge* step down to a CLC, and doesn't require purchasing additional ear protection like the H100i V2GTXWHATEVERTHEYCALLTHATPOSTHESEDAYS would require.


----------



## confed

Thank you for the help! I'm at Microcenter buying tubing, orange coolant, and will follow the above here. I appreciate the fast responses!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Great advice, Michael. That is distinctly platicizer, which was a common issue with that tubing.
> 
> @confed, listen to this, and change the tubing. Much cheaper than making a *huge* step down to a CLC, and doesn't require purchasing additional ear protection like the H100i V2GTXWHATEVERTHEYCALLTHATPOSTHESEDAYS would require.


thats plasticizer and the coolant breaking down they changed coolants after they discovered thos and so far havent seen it from the units with the new coolant


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> thats plasticizer and the coolant breaking down they changed coolants after they discovered thos and so far havent seen it from the units with the new coolant


It was actually the tubing change that stopped it. The coolant change was only made due to the supplier of PM2 no longer being able to produce it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It was actually the tubing change that stopped it. The coolant change was only made due to the supplier of PM2 no longer being able to produce it.


ok i stand corrected i thought i had read bram say the coolant had been breaking down and leaving blue sediment...


----------



## confed

Thank you to the helpful advice from @michael-ocn, @ciarlatano, and @Streetdragon I am seeing great performance and it looks a lot better. Granted, you all may not be big Flyers fans but the orange fits in nice. Plenty of tubing left and I still have an extra radiator in case I get the urge to put the 1080 under water.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Thank you to the helpful advice from @michael-ocn, @ciarlatano, and @Streetdragon I am seeing great performance and it looks a lot better. Granted, you all may not be big Flyers fans but the orange fits in nice. Plenty of tubing left and I still have an extra radiator in case I get the urge to put the 1080 under water.


Glad to here you got it cleaned up and working like it should again, looks great


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Thank you to the helpful advice from @michael-ocn, @ciarlatano, and @Streetdragon I am seeing great performance and it looks a lot better. Granted, you all may not be big Flyers fans but the orange fits in nice. Plenty of tubing left and I still have an extra radiator in case I get the urge to put the 1080 under water.


That is the first Philly themed PC I have seen. Nice!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Thank you to the helpful advice from @michael-ocn, @ciarlatano, and @Streetdragon I am seeing great performance and it looks a lot better. Granted, you all may not be big Flyers fans but the orange fits in nice. Plenty of tubing left and I still have an extra radiator in case I get the urge to put the 1080 under water.


Glad it all worked out well.

They still have hockey in the US? lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *confed*
> 
> Thank you to the helpful advice from @michael-ocn, @ciarlatano, and @Streetdragon I am seeing great performance and it looks a lot better. Granted, you all may not be big Flyers fans but the orange fits in nice. Plenty of tubing left and I still have an extra radiator in case I get the urge to put the 1080 under water.


Awesome set up!
Go Flyers!! I am originally from just across the Delaware river in Jersey, so I am a Philly fan.


----------



## XlordB

I have a stupid question here. can somone please elaborate if the fill port of the h240x is g1/4?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> I have a stupid question here. can somone please elaborate if the fill port of the h240x is g1/4?


it is...it is...but any fitting has to be shallow threads


----------



## XlordB

http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschraubtuellen/1611mm/7625/16/11mm-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-kompakt-silber-nickel?c=11123 will these do?


----------



## XlordB

Reason im asking is because these are what aquatuning is sending me in place of other fittings which are out of stock


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/anschluesse/anschraubtuellen/1611mm/7625/16/11mm-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-kompakt-silber-nickel?c=11123 will these do?


Those are fine. I believe as long they aren't more than 5mm long in the thread, they are usable.


----------



## XlordB

haha kl ended up with these eventually though http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/compression-fittings/1610mm/20680/alphacool-eiszapfen-16/10mm-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-chrome?c=10986

its only for filling the h240x anyway nothing special. just a permanent fill tube because sick of bubbles inside the unit think those bubbles were what caused my res screen to crack TWICE! rma parts already on way so this is why im setting it up with atube so i can get those damn bubbles out which might help quiet down the pump a little too.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> haha kl ended up with these eventually though http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/fittings/compression-fittings/1610mm/20680/alphacool-eiszapfen-16/10mm-anschraubtuelle-g1/4-chrome?c=10986
> 
> its only for filling the h240x anyway nothing special. just a permanent fill tube because sick of bubbles inside the unit think those bubbles were what caused my res screen to crack TWICE! rma parts already on way so this is why im setting it up with atube so i can get those damn bubbles out which might help quiet down the pump a little too.


Hehe bubbles cracking acrylic, that's a first









I've had the exact same issue with the H240-X. The cause? I'm pretty confident it's caused (in my unit and some others) due to the window sitting too tight in the radiator frame, meaning there's no gap between it. So imagine resonance caused by the pump which transfers into the glass. It was actually really bad with my last unit, I had to put a 3mm gasket between the case frame and the AIO, and even that didn't prevent the glass from cracking a 3rd time.

Right now I have an H220-X waiting to get fitted with a new reservoir window made out of poly carbonate. It's not so beautiful as acrylic, however it's soft so it cannot crack.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Hehe bubbles cracking acrylic, that's a first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had the exact same issue with the H240-X. The cause? I'm pretty confident it's caused (in my unit and some others) due to the window sitting too tight in the radiator frame, meaning there's no gap between it. So imagine resonance caused by the pump which transfers into the glass. It was actually really bad with my last unit, I had to put a 3mm gasket between the case frame and the AIO, and even that didn't prevent the glass from cracking a 3rd time.
> 
> Right now I have an H220-X waiting to get fitted with a new reservoir window made out of poly carbonate. It's not so beautiful as acrylic, however it's soft so it cannot crack.


hey, where'd you get the polycarbonate pane?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> hey, where'd you get the polycarbonate pane?


It's the "Old Wizard" up north who's making it for me (read: my dad lol)


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> It's the "Old Wizard" up north who's making it for me (read: my dad lol)


ur dad's a wizard, cool









i replaced mine once, hope to not have to ever do it again, but if i do, something less likely to crack would be great. the appearance does not matter to me at all, i cover the window up anyway to keep light (and green growth) out.


----------



## XlordB

nice . i think if there was some other material i could use to replicate the actual h240x window and make screw holes in and then attach that probably would help.. what i meant with the bubbles though was that with bubbles in the res the pump seems to vibrate more.. causing the window to crack.. i have noticed that when you have it turned on out the case and try holding the whole unit a certain way the pump goes Silent unfortunatley i cant remember which way makes that happen.. lol to be honest its a real pain in the arse having to replace a res window every other few months even if there is a 3 year warranty with it its still ridiculous. I mean these units are supposed to be top of the class for aios. Be nice if there was some transparent thin rubber sheeting could use to place behind the window my res gets no algae due to hydrex in my distilled water


----------



## Streetdragon

Maybe it cracks, because there is to much air in it. Air expands if it get warm. More pressure ->little cracks->big cracks


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Maybe it cracks, because there is to much air in it. Air expands if it get warm. More pressure ->little cracks->big cracks


No that simply can't be. Water will always fill more in volume than air, so having a bit of air in the reservoir is actually good compared to having none.


----------



## XlordB

its definitley some kind of pressure causing it.. for example that last crack wasnt fully right through the window it was still like half a mil solid at the inside but soon as i touched one of the pipes it cracked right through


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> its definitley some kind of pressure causing it.. for example that last crack wasnt fully right through the window it was still like half a mil solid at the inside but soon as i touched one of the pipes it cracked right through


Might have tightened the screws too much. It really doesn't take a lot for the acrylic to crack under pressure. Make sure always to screw in a cross pattern. Also using a multi screw driver tool could help with preventing over tightening the screws, but not all tools have the functionality (so I can't really point to a specific one).


----------



## XlordB

yes could be a good idea.. I wish there were oring 1mm thick that matched the screw diameters so you could use them as little washers


----------



## bluedevil

Made up my test bench!!


----------



## XlordB

nice. keep an eye on that res window though


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlordB*
> 
> nice. keep an eye on that res window though


I already took it apart and inspected/cleaned it. All is good.


----------



## XlordB

good stuff.. but I just mean keep an eye on it over time as for some strange reason they are prone to cracking lol







kudos to that testbench looks awesome.


----------



## KillerBee33

Hello,
H320 X2 Prestige on backorder , coming at the end of the month.
this is the idea for now without second radiator . Guys have any suggestions?


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Hello,
> H320 X2 Prestige on backorder , coming at the end of the month.
> this is the idea for now without second radiator . Guys have any suggestions?


>1<


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> >1<


Other than # 1fitting, anything else i should be considering ?


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Other than # 1fitting, anything else i should be considering ?


You can use 1,2,3. everythign will work great. No differents in flow. Only optical. So its realy up to you how you wanna do the 90°.

I like the first option the most and cleanest.(Only bending would be cleaner)


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> You can use 1,2,3. everythign will work great. No differents in flow. Only optical. So its realy up to you how you wanna do the 90°.
> 
> I like the first option the most and cleanest.(Only bending would be cleaner)


Let's just say 6700 @ 4,8 @ 1,4V and a single TitanXP . You think a second Radiator will make more sense or a single 320 is fine? Also , yes i am considering just bent that CPU to GPU tube without elbow connector








EDIT: Thinkin' of getting this and just Dremel space for the second 6Pin power connector. Looked up EK blocks , ehh with backplate ,tax and delivery about the same price.
http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Let's just say 6700 @ 4,8 @ 1,4V and a single TitanXP . You think a second Radiator will make more sense or a single 320 is fine? Also , yes i am considering just bent that CPU to GPU tube without elbow connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Thinkin' of getting this and just Dremel space for the second 6Pin power connector. Looked up EK blocks , ehh with backplate ,tax and delivery about the same price.
> http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx


I would add a bit more Rad-space if you wanna clock the GPU. With higher fanspeeds it should be ok too.

With the GPUblock..dont know xD


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> I would add a bit more Rad-space if you wanna clock the GPU. With higher fanspeeds it should be ok too.
> 
> With the GPUblock..dont know xD


Ill try as is and see if it'll be worth getting a second Radiator


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Hello,
> H320 X2 Prestige on backorder , coming at the end of the month.
> this is the idea for now without second radiator . Guys have any suggestions?


If you are using soft tubing (which I assume you are with the Swiftech fittings), that is going to be flopping around. You would be better off getting a 45 for the GPU, or two 60 degree (one for the GPU and one for the CPU block). That would be a much cleaner look.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you are using soft tubing (which I assume you are with the Swiftech fittings), that is going to be flopping around. You would be better off getting a 45 for the GPU, or two 60 degree (one for the GPU and one for the CPU block). That would be a much cleaner look.


What do you mean 45 or 60? Fittings Angle?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> What do you mean 45 or 60? Fittings Angle?


Yes, angled fittings.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, angled fittings.


Well, that scratch is a rough idea , just wanted a cleaner look than bent tubes , make it look solid , but i'm sure thing will change when i have that thing on hand


----------



## KillerBee33

Hey , question, other than the nickel fittings and better fans , is H320 much different from Prestige model? Prestige is on backorder and will cost almost 300$ when home but a H320 i can pick up in the store today for only 179$


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Hey , question, other than the nickel fittings and better fans , is H320 much different from Prestige model? Prestige is on backorder and will cost almost 300$ when home but a H320 i can pick up in the store today for only 179$


The fittings and fans are the only differences.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The fittings and fans are the only differences.


Don't forget the... Prestige.

I will show myself out now.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't forget the... Prestige.
> 
> I will show myself out now.


C'mon now , i'm trying to make a decision here


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The fittings and fans are the only differences.


$5 fittings aside







any idea where i can get similar fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> $5 fittings aside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea where i can get similar fans?


From any eLoop retailer. They are Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> $5 fittings aside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea where i can get similar fans?


Use the stock fans first and see how you like them. That radiator doesn't scale with air flow, and is not very restrictive to air flow either. As such, ~1200-1500 RPM fans will work nicely without being too loud.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Use the stock fans first and see how you like them. That radiator doesn't scale with air flow, and is not very restrictive to air flow either. As such, ~1200-1500 RPM fans will work nicely without being too loud.


Got 6 120mm Thermaltake riings on sale a wile back, have'em installed now. You think that'll do?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Got 6 120mm Thermaltake riings on sale a wile back, have'em installed now. You think that'll do?


Yes, they will


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, they will


Thank you Sir. Also i've aske b4 , just to get a second opinion, would that simple enough setup do fine on it's own for the 6700+TitanXP or will i need a second Radiator for a particular reason
?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Thank you Sir. Also i've aske b4 , just to get a second opinion, would that simple enough setup do fine on it's own for the 6700+TitanXP or will i need a second Radiator for a particular reason
> ?


I am not familiar with the heat load of the Titan X Pascal tbh, so assuming it is a ~250 W unit then it should be ok. Most 6700K CPUs run fairly cool, and the die to IHS bottleneck will be there no matter what. If you are expanding the AIO, make future expansion and draining easier by incorporating fill and drain ports. The pump can handle quick disconnects as well.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not familiar with the heat load of the Titan X Pascal tbh, so assuming it is a ~250 W unit then it should be ok. Most 6700K CPUs run fairly cool, and the die to IHS bottleneck will be there no matter what. If you are expanding the AIO, make future expansion and draining easier by incorporating fill and drain ports. The pump can handle quick disconnects as well.


Humm it's good you mentioned bottleneck , Titan runs much better with 6700 @ stock and when i say better its this
6700 @ 4,6 http://www.3dmark.com/spy/307763
6700 @ Stock Untouched http://www.3dmark.com/spy/373279


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Humm it's good you mentioned bottleneck , Titan runs much better with 6700 @ stock and when i say better its this
> 6700 @ 4,6 http://www.3dmark.com/spy/307763
> 6700 @ Stock Untouched http://www.3dmark.com/spy/373279


I was talking about the heat transfer bottleneck in cooling the CPU due to the poor quality thermal paste Intel used between the die and the integrated heat spreader, but yes that is also a factor


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was talking about the heat transfer bottleneck in cooling the CPU due to the poor quality thermal paste Intel used between the die and the integrated heat spreader, but yes that is also a factor


Ah. No really familiar with any of that


----------



## KillerBee33

Okey! Order Canceled /Order Submitted. In Store pickup any time


----------



## KillerBee33

Got one piece of the puzzle










100$ cheaper than Prestige would've been in a month








UPDATE : All on the way


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> From any eLoop retailer. They are Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P.


'
What about for the H240 X2?
I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min

I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> '
> What about for the H240 X2?
> I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min
> 
> I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


Good find dude







added 3 120's 1500RPMs


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> '
> What about for the H240 X2?
> I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min
> 
> I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


I'm using 2 of these on a 240mm radiator http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/4779/noiseblocker-nb-multiframe-m12-s3hs-120x120x25mm?c=6624
Work very well and noise is minimal even at 100%. I hear the eloop are very good.


----------



## KillerBee33

Need a suggestion...can i mix these two for further coloring?
1-http://thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00000786
2-http://www.microcenter.com/product/449337/250_ml_Coolant_Concentrate_Pastel_White
And Mayhems Green Dye later .
Thanks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Need a suggestion...can i mix these two for further coloring?
> 1-http://thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00000786
> 2-http://www.microcenter.com/product/449337/250_ml_Coolant_Concentrate_Pastel_White
> And Mayhems Green Dye later .
> Thanks


Honestly, I would not mix all those products together. They all have some sort of dye in them and will only add to the level of maintenance required and may not mix well at all. I also believe that using the Thermaltake and EK stuff will void your warranty but I am not entirely sure as I think the only stuff Swiftech allows is the Mayhems stuff. Pastels outside of what Swiftech recommends will void your warranty also.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Honestly, I would not mix all those products together. They all have some sort of dye in them and will only add to the level of maintenance required and may not mix well at all. I also believe that using the Thermaltake and EK stuff will void your warranty but I am not entirely sure as I think the only stuff Swiftech allows is the Mayhems stuff. Pastels outside of what Swiftech recommends will void your warranty also.


Thnx for the info , will use distilled water then , after all that Concentrate includes everything you need to add to distilled water.


----------



## KillerBee33

Can you guys help decide on air flow of this idea ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Can you guys help decide on air flow of this idea ?


The airflow is correct, but the res needs to be on the bottom.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The airflow is correct, but the res needs to be on the bottom.


Thnx , but why Res on bottom though ?
This is H320 X2 , if i flip it than i wont be able to fill, color or drain it


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Thnx , but why Res on bottom though ?
> This is H320 X2 , if i flip it than i wont be able to fill, color or drain it


If you mount it like that it will be backwards with the res facing the back of your case and the pump in front.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> If you mount it like that it will be backwards with the res facing the back of your case and the pump in front.


Heh , thats the idea ! It's hidden in H440 not visible at all








But main question is, would it blow HOT air thru its radiator? Got EVGAs Hybrid kit on the GPU now in Push Exhaust and it blows out pretty hot air.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Heh , thats the idea ! It's hidden in H440 not visible at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But main question is, would it blow HOT air thru its radiator? Got EVGAs Hybrid kit on the GPU now in Push Exhaust and it blows out pretty hot air.


If you are not including the gpu in the loop you could use a H240 or a H220 and mount it in the roof exhausting. It you mount one in the front as intake it will heat up the air in the case.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> If you are not including the gpu in the loop you could use a H240 or a H220 and mount it in the roof exhausting. It you mount one in the front as intake it will heat up the air in the case.


GPU is in the loop


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> GPU is in the loop


Ok thought you were going to use the EVGA Hybrid, if it were me I would mount the H320 X2 in the roof. You do get cooler air to the radiator using intake but it will heat up the case, either way with good air flow you should be ok.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Ok thought you were going to use the EVGA Hybrid, if it were me I would mount the H320 X2 in the roof. You do get cooler air to the radiator using intake but it will heat up the case, either way with good air flow you should be ok.


Well that was my question actually , there will not be a second radiator or EVGAs kit just as simple as i have on that chicken scratch








Should i reverse the H320s fans as Pull exhaust in my case?
Also dont want it to be okey







want it actually Perform , Got a nice Clockin GPU and my 6700 can easy do 4.9 @ 1.42V


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Well that was my question actually , there will not be a second radiator or EVGAs kit just as simple as i have on that chicken scratch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should i reverse the H320s fans as Pull exhaust in my case?
> Also dont want it to be okey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> want it actually Perform , Got a nice Clockin GPU and my 6700 can easy do 4.9 @ 1.42V


Personally I would mount the H320 X in the roof with the fans as exhaust. Make sure you have 3 good intake fans. This will keep the motherboard and drives cool and give good airflow for the H320. Nice thing about Skylake and Pascal is their reduced power usage and heat production. I have a OCed 6600k and a GTX 1070 running off a single 240mm radiator. My max temps are 42C on the gpu and 48C on the cpu. I think the H320 X should perform very well with your setup.

If you are not happy with the cooling you can always add an additional radiator to the front of the case.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Personally I would mount the H320 X in the roof with the fans as exhaust. Make sure you have 3 good intake fans. This will keep the motherboard and drives cool and give good airflow for the H320. Nice thing about Skylake and Pascal is their reduced power usage and heat production. I have a OCed 6600k and a GTX 1070 running off a single 240mm radiator. My max temps are 42C on the gpu and 48C on the cpu. I think the H320 X should perform very well with your setup.
> 
> If you are not happy with the cooling you can always add an additional radiator to the front of the case.


Was gonna keep those factory fans but i do have bunch of 1500RPM Thermaltake Riings .
Also Mounting it on top will be harder to mantain and if something ever leaks it's on the empty side with nothing expensive around.
Will try stock fans then Thermaltakes as Pull Exsaust if not will have to get these befor expanding the loop with a second Rad.
http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/14176/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-bionic-luefter-120x120x25mm


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Was gonna keep those factory fans but i do have bunch of 1500RPM Thermaltake Riings .
> Also Mounting it on top will be harder to mantain and if something ever leaks it's on the empty side with nothing expensive around.


Actually that is not a bad idea, if the Swiftech is going to leak anywhere it will probably be from the reservoir, but hopefully not at all. Mounting in the front should work fine, just make sure you have good exhaust. You will actually get slightly better temps on cpu and gpu intaking cool air. But higher temps in the case. Should not be too bad though.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Actually that is not a bad idea, if the Swiftech is going to leak anywhere it will probably be from the reservoir, but hopefully not at all. Mounting in the front should work fine, just make sure you have good exhaust. You will actually get slightly better temps on cpu and gpu intaking cool air. But higher temps in the case. Should not be too bad though.


Thanx for your input








be back tomorrow , heh gotta get up @ 5am to pay for this mess


----------



## KillerBee33

Ok, so this is what i'll try first , if for some reason it wont work i can add another 220 thinker radiator , basically H320 to CPU ,CPU to 220 rad. , 220 rad. to GPU and GPU back to 220 , have the 220 in Push Exhaust


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Ok, so this is what i'll try first , if for some reason it wont work i can add another 220 thinker radiator , basically H320 to CPU ,CPU to 220 rad. , 220 rad. to GPU and GPU back to 220 , have the 220 in Push Exhaust


Am I getting this wrong or do you really intend on pulling air out the front of the case through the H320-X2?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Am I getting this wrong or do you really intend on pulling air out the front of the case through the H320-X2?


Yes thats right.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Ok, so this is what i'll try first , if for some reason it wont work i can add another 220 thinker radiator , basically H320 to CPU ,CPU to 220 rad. , 220 rad. to GPU and GPU back to 220 , have the 220 in Push Exhaust


The H440 is already an air starved case, and you have absolutely no cool air going to the rad, this is not going to work well. Run the H320 fans as intakes. And leave those Riing fans in the closet, the Swiftech Helix fans are better performers on this radiator. Also, if you are going to leave the res on top, see if you can put a fill/drain line on that you can keep higher than the res allowing for a higher fill. This way any evaporation will give you a great margin of error before the pump starts sucking in air.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Am I getting this wrong or do you really intend on pulling air out the front of the case through the H320-X2?


I'm afraid you are getting it correct.....


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H440 is already an air starved case, and you have absolutely no cool air going to the rad, this is not going to work well. Run the H320 fans as intakes. And leave those Riing fans in the closet, the Swiftech Helix fans are better performers on this radiator. Also, if you are going to leave the res on top, see if you can put a fill/drain line on that you can keep higher than the res allowing for a higher fill. This way any evaporation will give you a great margin of error before the pump starts sucking in air.
> I'm afraid you are getting it correct.....


Wouldn't that bring HOT air into the case? i mean a single 120 just from the GPU pushes steaming hot now and now i'm adding a CPU to the mix.
I'm not dismissing suggestions , just trying to understand







Also in this position changing fan directions shouldn't be a problem, so i can try both ways.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Wouldn't that bring HOT air into the case? i mean a single 120 just from the GPU pushes steaming hot now and now i'm adding a CPU to the mix.
> I'm not dismissing suggestions , just trying to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in this position changing fan directions shouldn't be a problem, so i can try both ways.


Actually, yes it would. Personally, I am almost never for using a rad as intake, but this is an exception. With your setup, you are definitely forced to choose the lesser of two evils. The correct thing to do is put the rad on top as has been suggested, but since you do not want to do that.....

The setup you are showing has no intake. Literally _no_ intake. The only way for cool are to get to the rad will by having it suck in through leaks in the case. You are also creating a vacuum, so your are actually greatly increasing resistance to your fans, so your fans will actually flow less air while moving at the same speed. Air will also choose the path of least resistance, and that path will not be through your radiator, it will be out the top and back. You need air*flow*. Air needs to move as effortlessly as possible, and your setup is doing exactly the opposite.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, yes it would. Personally, I am almost never for using a rad as intake, but this is an exception. With your setup, you are definitely forced to choose the lesser of two evils. The correct thing to do is put the rad on top as has been suggested, but since you do not want to do that.....
> 
> The setup you are showing has no intake. Literally _no_ intake. The only way for cool are to get to the rad will by having it suck in through leaks in the case. You are also creating a vacuum, so your are actually greatly increasing resistance to your fans, so your fans will actually flow less air while moving at the same speed. Air will also choose the path of least resistance, and that path will not be through your radiator, it will be out the top and back. You need air*flow*. Air needs to move as effortlessly as possible, and your setup is doing exactly the opposite.


I see what you sayin' , what if i have top fans as intake or 140mm Side fan as intake? Mounting H320 on top will give me a headache when fillin it i' assume in this small h440.Also if i mount the 320 on top , shhould i use it as pull/exhaust ?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Wouldn't that bring HOT air into the case? i mean a single 120 just from the GPU pushes steaming hot now and now i'm adding a CPU to the mix.
> I'm not dismissing suggestions , just trying to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in this position changing fan directions shouldn't be a problem, so i can try both ways.


Circulating hot air inside a case means nothing. What's important is to have a steady airflow and positive pressure to prevent major dust intake (does require your intake fans to be filtered). So flip around both your front and back fans to intake air, and make sure they're filtered. The way you have it setup right now is negative air pressure, and that will not serve you well, trust me.

Edit:

Here's a good video with a bit of demonstation:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Circulating hot air inside a case means nothing. What's important is to have a steady airflow and positive pressure to prevent major dust intake (does require your intake fans to be filtered). So flip around both your front and back fans to intake air, and make sure they're filtered. The way you have it setup right now is negative air pressure, and that will not serve you well, trust me.


You mean this?


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> You mean this?


If your top intake is filtered, then yes that could work, but still it's more effective the way I described by intaking air from front, back, sides, and exhausting in the top

Edit: Didn't notice first that you're doing intake from the top, hence why my first comment on it might not make too much sense to you


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> If your top intake is filtered, then yes that could work, but still it's more effective the way I described by intaking air from front, back, sides, and exhausting in the top
> 
> Edit: Didn't notice first that you're doing intake from the top, hence why my first comment on it might not make too much sense to you


Heh i just flipped the top







originally it was this

Feels like having 320 as intake only works for the Radiator to get fresh air but what comes out (HOT)of it will work against everything else.
You think this will work better?

I can get this filter on top if the H320 set as pull/exhaust and top fans as intake


----------



## KillerBee33

Looked around on the H440 Owners Page , most have same setup Air or Water loop








Thank you guys for the info , seems this is what i'm gonna do for now


----------



## d0mmie

Dude... Hot air inside your case means nothing as long you have a good airflow. You worry way too much about this









Edit: To prove a point:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Dude... Hot air inside your case means nothing as long you have a good airflow. You worry way too much about this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: To prove a point:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tnx. If it doesn't work ill get a second 240 rad for the top and call it a day








Adding another rad. should be quick and easy with everything positioned as is got enough Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing w, will only need 2 extra compression fittings and one elbow








What sux is bcz of the holidays i might not get everything by the end of this week.


----------



## Imprezzion

I got a few questions for you guys.

1. I own a gen 1 H320 with a over 2 year old ex-RMA pump which had some gasket issues and some spun screws on the cold plate so i didn't use the unit at all. Mind you, the pump itself is just fine!

So, now i bought a cheap secondhand (disassembled) H220 which had a much newer pump/block combo which has a very very bad rattle. I only bought it for the rad, tubing, pump housing and gaskets.

Now, question is, this unit has different wiring to my old one. Mine has only PWM 4 pin. This newer one has SATA, PWM and some small 2 pin affair.

What's the difference? And is there like, a difference in cold place design as well? I can switch them if there's an advantage?

2. I'm using both the H320 and H220 rad now in the loop with only CPU.
This means i can run super low fanspeeds for good temps however, since i'm using the PWM only pump it's running low RPM as well.
Does it hurt the pump to run a 360+240 rad on like, 20% PWM idle and 40-50% PWM load? It's only doing ~1500rpm idle now. It is super quiet and temps are amazing (25-30c idle, 65-70c prime95 AVX small FFT @ 4.8ghz 1.384v) but still.. I'm slightly worried about the low RPM.

3. What do i need to add to demineralized water to make it suitable for the long run? I'm just using straight demineralized water in the loop now since i was still testing but things are pretty final now or at least nearing final stage.


----------



## jase78

What's up guys . I've had a 240x for a year and a half now and no problems other than the low clicking noise from the pump but it's not real loud in my h440 case. I have a strix 1080 and am wanting to add a block to it. What all will I need besides a block and radiator[am thinking 240 rad]?

I know I will need anot adapter/fitting for the swiftech unit to change out tubes.

What else? If someone would be willing to help me put together a parts list I would really appreciate it . I'm wanting to keep the cost down As much as possible. Thanks in advanced .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> What's up guys . I've had a 240x for a year and a half now and no problems other than the low clicking noise from the pump but it's not real loud in my h440 case. I have a strix 1080 and am wanting to add a block to it. What all will I need besides a block and radiator[am thinking 240 rad]?
> 
> I know I will need anot adapter/fitting for the swiftech unit to change out tubes.
> 
> What else? If someone would be willing to help me put together a parts list I would really appreciate it . I'm wanting to keep the cost down As much as possible. Thanks in advanced .


You don't need any adapter for the H240-X. You will need the following:

1080 Strix block (I believe EK may be the only choice here)
240mm radiator (I'm preferential to HWL rads, but XSPC, EK, Alphacool make nice rads also. Just don't get an EK SE, they are horrible performers)
2 fans (GTs, eLoops, Vardars, F120MP)
4 - 3/8 x 5/8" fittings (Monsoon, Swiftech, Bitspower, EK, XSPC all make top quality fittings. Pick the one you like the looks of)
3/8 x 5/8" tubing (Primochill Advanced LRT, PPC's Dreamflex)
Coolant of choice (Mayhems X-1 is recommended by Swiftech....)
Wash bottle (for filling - best $5 you will ever spend)

Now, you *can* change the fittings on the block if you like, as well as one on the pump (the one that requires the adapter to change it can't be seen....so, it's pretty pointless changing it). This will be purely aesthetic, won't make anything easier or perform better.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imprezzion*
> 
> I got a few questions for you guys.
> 
> 1. I own a gen 1 H320 with a over 2 year old ex-RMA pump which had some gasket issues and some spun screws on the cold plate so i didn't use the unit at all. Mind you, the pump itself is just fine!
> 
> So, now i bought a cheap secondhand (disassembled) H220 which had a much newer pump/block combo which has a very very bad rattle. I only bought it for the rad, tubing, pump housing and gaskets.
> 
> Now, question is, this unit has different wiring to my old one. Mine has only PWM 4 pin. This newer one has SATA, PWM and some small 2 pin affair.
> 
> What's the difference? And is there like, a difference in cold place design as well? I can switch them if there's an advantage?
> 
> 2. I'm using both the H320 and H220 rad now in the loop with only CPU.
> This means i can run super low fanspeeds for good temps however, since i'm using the PWM only pump it's running low RPM as well.
> Does it hurt the pump to run a 360+240 rad on like, 20% PWM idle and 40-50% PWM load? It's only doing ~1500rpm idle now. It is super quiet and temps are amazing (25-30c idle, 65-70c prime95 AVX small FFT @ 4.8ghz 1.384v) but still.. I'm slightly worried about the low RPM.
> 
> 3. What do i need to add to demineralized water to make it suitable for the long run? I'm just using straight demineralized water in the loop now since i was still testing but things are pretty final now or at least nearing final stage.


No, that won't be a problem. If your temps are good then the pump is able to push enough flow through the rads at that speed. The pump gets the same voltage regardless of speed because it's a PWM device. I hope this answers your question.

I would consider adding a silver coil or an algae inhibitor like PT Nuke to keep growth out, but other than that you're fine.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@ciarlatano You mentioned that the Swiftech AIOs that use the 120mm noise blocker fans are the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P. But I'd like to know if you know which ones they use for the AIO's that use the 140mm fans?
I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
Would I get better cooling the higher rpm limit though with more noise or what?
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min

I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @ciarlatano You mentioned that the Swiftech AIOs that use the 120mm noise blocker fans are the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P. But I'd like to know if you know which ones they use for the AIO's that use the 140mm fans?
> I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
> Would I get better cooling the higher rpm limit though with more noise or what?
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min
> 
> I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


The 140mm eLoop on the Prestige is not available separately. Not even as a part from Swiftech. They are made specifically for the cooler.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @ciarlatano You mentioned that the Swiftech AIOs that use the 120mm noise blocker fans are the Noiseblocker eLoop B12-P. But I'd like to know if you know which ones they use for the AIO's that use the 140mm fans?
> I am looking to upgrade the fans on my H-240X and was thinking of the noiseblocker fans but which of these would work best?
> Would I get better cooling the higher rpm limit though with more noise or what?
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-1 Bionic fan 600U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2 Bionic fan 900U/min
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-3 Bionic fan 1500U/min
> 
> I am also thinking of the Heatkiller IV Pro since the Apogee XL 2 is unavailable for purchase outside of the new units.


2000 RPM is what Swiftech uses for the 120mm
https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblock%E2%80%8Ber-NB-eLoop-B-12-P-Bionic-2000rpm/dp/B00IYF9QIA/ref=lp_7597168011_1_9?srs=7597168011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473524093&sr=8-9

You can also check by Swiftech reported Aiflow and the Manufacturer Specs
http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/14176/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-bionic-luefter-120x120x25mm


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 140mm eLoop on the Prestige is not available separately. Not even as a part from Swiftech. They are made specifically for the cooler.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 2000 RPM is what Swiftech uses for the 120mm
> https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblock%E2%80%8Ber-NB-eLoop-B-12-P-Bionic-2000rpm/dp/B00IYF9QIA/ref=lp_7597168011_1_9?srs=7597168011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473524093&sr=8-9
> 
> You can also check by Swiftech reported Aiflow and the Manufacturer Specs
> http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/14176/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-bionic-luefter-120x120x25mm


So there is absolutely no way to get a pair of the 140mm fans for my H240X?

Is it at least possible to get a pair of fans that would give similar performance?

Swiftech is really starting to loose my support. Why would they make products that you can't purchase any other way than in an AIO?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 2000 RPM is what Swiftech uses for the 120mm
> https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblock%E2%80%8Ber-NB-eLoop-B-12-P-Bionic-2000rpm/dp/B00IYF9QIA/ref=lp_7597168011_1_9?srs=7597168011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473524093&sr=8-9


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So there is absolutely no way to get a pair of the 140mm fans for my H240X?
> 
> Is it at least possible to get a pair of fans that would give similar performance?
> 
> Swiftech is really starting to loose my support. Why would they make products that you can't purchase any other way than in an AIO?


1500RMPs
These should perform better than Swiftechs
http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/19876/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b14-3-bionic-luefter-1500u/min-140x140x29mm


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 1500RMPs
> These should perform better than Swiftechs
> http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/19876/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b14-3-bionic-luefter-1500u/min-140x140x29mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks!
FYI, I recently installed the W10 anniversary ed and after it installed I had to reset some things in my system Other than having to redo some registry patches for my sound card I noticed my temps were quite high like in the 50's for idle.
I checked my AI suite and the anniversary update had somehow reset all my fan curves to something horrible...lol. It had all my fans at 0% for 35 degress celcius! I reset my optimal fan curves but I am still running about 5 degrees warmer at idle then I was before the anniversary update. I was running like high 20's for idle.
I am also using the Grid+ V2 to control a few other fans in my case to include a small 80mm fan that I put in the remaining drive bays and it amazingly reduced my original temps by 3 to 5 degrees.
But a few days before I even upgraded to the W10 anniversary my grid unit stopped showing up in the CAM software, though it still works. So I am thinking that the anniversary update also screwed with those fan settings which is reason for my now higher temps. I was talking with NZXT tech support but they have not replied in a week so I put in an RMA for that unit. Consequently I had the same exact problem with the first Grid+ V2 on install and they were quick to send me a replacement.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 1500RMPs
> These should perform better than Swiftechs
> http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/19876/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b14-3-bionic-luefter-1500u/min-140x140x29mm


Why would you think that a 1500rpm eLoop would perform better than an 1800rpm eLoop? That is obviously not correct.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Why would you think that a 1500rpm eLoop would perform better than an 1800rpm eLoop? That is obviously not correct.


Just judging by Reported Air Flow. Also he asked Similar or Close to Swiftechs Fan performance


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Just judging by Reported Air Flow. Also he asked Similar or Close to Swiftechs Fan performance


They are 20 cfm lower in flow, and have a full third less static pressure. Maybe you are thinking that m3/h and CFM are the same thing since the link you gave shows airflow in m3/h?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thanks!
> FYI, I recently installed the W10 anniversary ed and after it installed I had to reset some things in my system Other than having to redo some registry patches for my sound card I noticed my temps were quite high like in the 50's for idle.
> I checked my AI suite and the anniversary update had somehow reset all my fan curves to something horrible...lol. It had all my fans at 0% for 35 degress celcius! I reset my optimal fan curves but I am still running about 5 degrees warmer at idle then I was before the anniversary update. I was running like high 20's for idle.
> I am also using the Grid+ V2 to control a few other fans in my case to include a small 80mm fan that I put in the remaining drive bays and it amazingly reduced my original temps by 3 to 5 degrees.
> But a few days before I even upgraded to the W10 anniversary my grid unit stopped showing up in the CAM software, though it still works. So I am thinking that the anniversary update also screwed with those fan settings which is reason for my now higher temps. I was talking with NZXT tech support but they have not replied in a week so I put in an RMA for that unit. Consequently I had the same exact problem with the first Grid+ V2 on install and they were quick to send me a replacement.


Had ""thought i had"" a single issue with AU , which was in 3DMark , TimeSpy diactivated after update , but everything runs without a glitch








Downloaded W10 ISO from MS and did a clean install btw. CAM never gave me any issues but i never Updated it thru its Update system , Uninstall it first then install new build.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Had ""thought i had"" a single issue with AU , which was in 3DMark , TimeSpy diactivated after update , but everything runs without a glitch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Downloaded W10 ISO from MS and did a clean install btw. CAM never gave me any issues but i never Updated it thru its Update system , Uninstall it first then install new build.


The issue isn't CAM and windows 10 anniversary. That happened before I did the update as I said.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are 20 cfm lower in flow, and have a full third less static pressure. Maybe you are thinking that m3/h and CFM are the same thing since the link you gave shows airflow in m3/h?


Sure , i might've overstated that * living my errors behind . Question was to get Similar product on the marked and 1500 RPM NB made will give him exactly that and i doubt you will see major difference in performance


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The issue isn't CAM and windows 10 anniversary. That happened before I did the update as I said.


So GRID defected?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Sure , i might've overstated that * living my errors behind . Question was to get Similar product on the marked and 1500 RPM NB made will give him exactly that and i doubt you will see major difference in performance


Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> So GRID defected?


That is what I am thinking, but it may have been caused by a defective IU01 USB hub. Not sure yet as I am awaiting a response on the RMA requests.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.


I did not see that. PWM is sort of a good thing to have for CPU fans.....


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.


None PWM? you mean they can only run 100% all the time?


----------



## KillerBee33

My loop ingredients are getting here one by one , next weekend i'll be putting it all together








Got these two to mix for now
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002797
https://mayhems.co.uk/dyes/standard-dyes/uv-green-10ml/
And if that don't work out than this is highly recommended by a fellow
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35IHEXR76RHMZ
And this block is coming tomorrow








http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx


----------



## charles4691

Hi everybody ! Listen,I have a Cooler Master Glacer 240 L and need to find out the size of the hoses on it. I want to say they are 3/8/ in and 5/8 outer.Does anyone know for sure ?
thank you for any info


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charles4691*
> 
> Hi everybody ! Listen,I have a Cooler Master Glacer 240 L and need to find out the size of the hoses on it. I want to say they are 3/8/ in and 5/8 outer.Does anyone know for sure ?
> thank you for any info


3/8" x 5/8" is correct.


----------



## charles4691

Thanks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> My loop ingredients are getting here one by one , next weekend i'll be putting it all together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got these two to mix for now
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002797
> https://mayhems.co.uk/dyes/standard-dyes/uv-green-10ml/
> And if that don't work out than this is highly recommended by a fellow
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35IHEXR76RHMZ
> And this block is coming tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx


So you are planning on mixing all those into one loop!?
If that is your intention I see bad things coming of this.

I do not know of anyone that would recommend doing that and in fact I have never heard of anyone doing that.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So you are planning on mixing all those into one loop!?
> If that is your intention I see bad things coming of this.
> 
> I do not know of anyone that would recommend doing that and in fact I have never heard of anyone doing that.


How so?




Thermaltake is your regular White Pastel Coolant and Mayhems Green UV DYE , well , it's a DYE


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> None PWM? you mean they can only run 100% all the time?
Click to expand...

Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> My loop ingredients are getting here one by one , next weekend i'll be putting it all together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got these two to mix for now
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002797
> https://mayhems.co.uk/dyes/standard-dyes/uv-green-10ml/
> And if that don't work out than this is highly recommended by a fellow
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35IHEXR76RHMZ
> And this block is coming tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> So you are planning on mixing all those into one loop!?
> If that is your intention I see bad things coming of this.
> 
> I do not know of anyone that would recommend doing that and in fact I have never heard of anyone doing that.
Click to expand...

If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
> If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.


The 1500 NB 140mm are 3pins , and @Madmaxneo is using NZXTs GRID+ which is controlled thru their soft








Semantics ...still comes down to the same point . Wont see any difference in performance .
BTW gonna try the Swiftech factory fans first and if they dont work out will get the NB 120s @ 2000 rpm


----------



## KillerBee33

DELETE


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
> If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.


The only reason it may not work is if i dont get that nice nVidia Green with Mayhems UV Green dye , some say it may come out Yellowish, got Mayhems Emerald Green to add and see and if that dont give me what i want , flush it and fill with the second Pre Mixed Green UV Coolant


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 140mm eLoop on the Prestige is not available separately. Not even as a part from Swiftech. They are made specifically for the cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 2000 RPM is what Swiftech uses for the 120mm
> https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblock%E2%80%8Ber-NB-eLoop-B-12-P-Bionic-2000rpm/dp/B00IYF9QIA/ref=lp_7597168011_1_9?srs=7597168011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473524093&sr=8-9
> 
> You can also check by Swiftech reported Aiflow and the Manufacturer Specs
> http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/14176/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-bionic-luefter-120x120x25mm
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So there is absolutely no way to get a pair of the 140mm fans for my H240X?
> 
> Is it at least possible to get a pair of fans that would give similar performance?
> 
> Swiftech is really starting to loose my support. Why would they make products that you can't purchase any other way than in an AIO?
Click to expand...

Huh? Unless swiftech forced then not to sell via contact, Which I doubt. How is another company not selling these fans swiftech fault.

For me the sudden drop in customer service (bram set the bar excessively high ) is turning me off

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> None PWM? you mean they can only run 100% all the time?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> My loop ingredients are getting here one by one , next weekend i'll be putting it all together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got these two to mix for now
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002797
> https://mayhems.co.uk/dyes/standard-dyes/uv-green-10ml/
> And if that don't work out than this is highly recommended by a fellow
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35IHEXR76RHMZ
> And this block is coming tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So you are planning on mixing all those into one loop!?
> If that is your intention I see bad things coming of this.
> 
> I do not know of anyone that would recommend doing that and in fact I have never heard of anyone doing that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.
Click to expand...

Umm 2 pin and 3 pin are voltage control you just can't read the rpm if the 2 pin


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 140mm eLoop on the Prestige is not available separately. Not even as a part from Swiftech. They are made specifically for the cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> 2000 RPM is what Swiftech uses for the 120mm
> https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblock%E2%80%8Ber-NB-eLoop-B-12-P-Bionic-2000rpm/dp/B00IYF9QIA/ref=lp_7597168011_1_9?srs=7597168011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473524093&sr=8-9
> 
> You can also check by Swiftech reported Aiflow and the Manufacturer Specs
> http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/axial-fans/14176/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-bionic-luefter-120x120x25mm
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So there is absolutely no way to get a pair of the 140mm fans for my H240X?
> 
> Is it at least possible to get a pair of fans that would give similar performance?
> 
> Swiftech is really starting to loose my support. Why would they make products that you can't purchase any other way than in an AIO?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Huh? Unless swiftech forced then not to sell via contact, Which I doubt. How is another company not selling these fans swiftech fault.
> 
> For me the sudden drop in customer service (bram set the bar excessively high ) is turning me off
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not too much performance difference, and none at lower rpm, but they are also not PWM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> None PWM? you mean they can only run 100% all the time?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> My loop ingredients are getting here one by one , next weekend i'll be putting it all together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got these two to mix for now
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002797
> https://mayhems.co.uk/dyes/standard-dyes/uv-green-10ml/
> And if that don't work out than this is highly recommended by a fellow
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A35IHEXR76RHMZ
> And this block is coming tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So you are planning on mixing all those into one loop!?
> If that is your intention I see bad things coming of this.
> 
> I do not know of anyone that would recommend doing that and in fact I have never heard of anyone doing that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Umm 2 pin and 3 pin are voltage control you just can't read the rpm if the 2 pin
Click to expand...

OK. I simplified the point, which is to say, if it's at least a 3-pin DC fan, you can "read and control" which was my point to begin with.

I understand the difference between a DC fan with 2 pins and one with 3, and what PWM offers, what a fan controller offers, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> OK. I simplified the point, which is to say, if it's at least a 3-pin DC fan, you can "read and control" which was my point to begin with.
> *snip*


What you are saying now is not at ll the same as you originally said.

Your below statement is not 'simplified'. It is false.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Those aren't mutually exclusive. 2 pins is 100% all the time, 3 pins is DC, which is controllable by software, and obviously 4 pins is PWM.
> If you look the user is talking about mixing a dye with a coolant *and if that doesn't work*...then.. It's an if/then.


Your post is false information.
Mega Man corrected you and posted accurate information.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What you are saying now is not at ll the same as you originally said.
> 
> Your below statement is not 'simplified'. It is false.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your post is false information.
> Mega Man corrected you and posted accurate information.


So what's a PWM Fan and it's benefits?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> So what's a PWM Fan and it's benefits?


http://bfy.tw/7eeM


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> http://bfy.tw/7eeM


Thanx for the GOOGLE link, that's exactly why we all here


----------



## jase78

I was considering expanding my 240x loop to my 1080. However, I have someone willing to come off a 220x for $60 bux. How do you think a 220x would do by itself with a 1080? Figured I would just keep cpu and gpu seperate for now . And put the 220x in the front of my h440 case and leave the cpu in the top.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I was considering expanding my 240x loop to my 1080. However, I have someone willing to come off a 220x for $60 bux. How do you think a 220x would do by itself with a 1080? Figured I would just keep cpu and gpu seperate for now . And put the 220x in the front of my h440 case and leave the cpu in the top.


I think it would do very well, Pascal run very cool. I went from a 970 to a 1070, the 970 was low to mid 50C under load and the 1070 is 42C under load. Only hits 38C running stress tests.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> I was considering expanding my 240x loop to my 1080. However, I have someone willing to come off a 220x for $60 bux. How do you think a 220x would do by itself with a 1080? Figured I would just keep cpu and gpu seperate for now . And put the 220x in the front of my h440 case and leave the cpu in the top.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I think it would do very well, Pascal run very cool. I went from a 970 to a 1070, the 970 was low to mid 50C under load and the 1070 is 42C under load. Only hits 38C running stress tests.


Yup, an H220-X can cool a 1080 with no issues at all. Won't come close to pushing it.


----------



## Mark the Bold

I just added a 780 TI to my H220 that uses the MCP35x pump. No problem at all. My CPU is at 4.4Ghz and my graphics card is at stock. Running Intels XTU CPU Stress Test + Furmark concurrently has the temp top out at 62 C (CPU) and 60 C (GPU) for both at 10 minutes load in warm Southern California weather. Your 1080 puts out even less heat than my card, so you should be golden.

I did swap the fluid from the stock Swiftech coolant to distilled + killcoil. Flow was NOTICEABLY better and I noticed considerable gunk in my CPU block from the stock coolant. I am also using Gentle Typhoons running at contact 1450 rpm as well. I am certain the PVM swiftech fans will do even better when kicked into high gear, but not needed for my rig.

EDIT: Just running Furmark alone is a joke. Never above 40C over 10 minutes.


----------



## KillerBee33

Does anyone have any experience with Swiftechs GPU waterblocks?
Just received KOMODO NV-LE GTX1080 VGA Waterblock and plate for the chip is about half of it's size

Went against all odds


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with Swiftechs GPU waterblocks?
> Just received KOMODO NV-LE GTX1080 VGA Waterblock and plate for the chip is about half of it's size
> 
> Went against all odds


That is how it should be. I ran the Titan NV-LE for a couple of years. They are fantastic looking blocks.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is how it should be. I ran the Titan NV-LE for a couple of years. They are fantastic looking blocks.


Looking good , YES! How about Performance? Also what did you use and how did you apply TP?
I got Gelid Ex layin around , gonna try for both cpu and gpu .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Looking good , YES! How about Performance? Also what did you use and how did you apply TP?
> I got Gelid Ex layin around , gonna try for both cpu and gpu .


Performance was exactly what you would expect from a top tier block. Don't recall if I used GC Extreme or NT-H1.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Performance was exactly what you would expect from a top tier block. Don't recall if I used GC Extreme or NT-H1.


Hoping for the best ,Dremeling that block to fit TitanXP . Most of the things are here , waiting for Mayhems GreenUV DYE and Phobyas UV LED


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with Swiftechs GPU waterblocks?
> Just received KOMODO NV-LE GTX1080 VGA Waterblock and plate for the chip is about half of it's size
> 
> Went against all odds


I have two in "CLASSIFIED DEMON".


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I have two in "CLASSIFIED DEMON".


Cool, how are they performing on AMD?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Cool, how are they performing on AMD?


Quite good. Both GPUs idle around 32C and 35C. Loads about 66C with the hot Fury Xs.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Quite good. Both GPUs idle around 32C and 35C. Loads about 66C with the hot Fury Xs.


Gonna have to get my own thermal pad , can you suggest a brand? need 0.5 for the gpu.
Not sure about AMD but thats hot by nvidia standarts , my TXP idles @ 24 with EVGAs Hybrid kit and 55 load


----------



## KillerBee33

Need opinion if this is a good product
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23NVCSO4PYH3S


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Gonna have to get my own thermal pad , can you suggest a brand? need 0.5 for the gpu.
> Not sure about AMD but thats hot by nvidia standarts , my TXP idles @ 24 with EVGAs Hybrid kit and 55 load


Well...when you look at how much wattage is dissipated you will change your mind....169 watts more to consider. So for the extra 11C, yeah, plus its older architecture than the Titan XP, so the Titan XP has that on its side. However, price is also something to consider.

Personally, I would love to have one single powerful GPU like the TItan XP. Much less power consumption, less mGPU issues, and TONS less heat output.



https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/Titan_X_Pascal/22.html


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Well...when you look at how much wattage is dissipated you will change your mind....169 watts more to consider. So for the extra 11C, yeah, plus its older architecture than the Titan XP, so the Titan XP has that on its side. However, price is also something to consider.
> 
> Personally, I would love to have one single powerful GPU like the TItan XP. Much less power consumption, less mGPU issues, and TONS less heat output.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/Titan_X_Pascal/22.html


Well, still waiting for that BIOS tool







hopefully we'll be able to get around that miserable 263W limit








My 980 was set to 350 limit and ran @ 1583MHz , haven't seen anything over 60 degrees under Hybrid kit.
I'm not expecting a miracle with the Titan and my setup but would lik to have it under 50


----------



## v1ral

what is up with the H220X adapter fitting being out of stock everywhere?
This is what is holding me back from going hardline tubing!


----------



## KillerBee33

Just wanted to post the results of trying to fit Swiftechs KOMODO 1080 Block onto Titan X Pascal.
Did a little mod to fit extra 6PIN power connector but will still requite to mod C110 copper part of the block to fir L32 part which i'm not going thru


----------



## KillerBee33

H320 Prestige are back in STOCK
http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> H320 Prestige are back in STOCK
> http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx


Yeah I see that and I am most definitely tempted.
Getting the new CPU block and fans will run me about $150, whereas the 320 prestige is just $70 more. But I would have to wait two weeks to get, hopefully they will still be in stock if I decide to get one.


----------



## KillerBee33

Went ahead and modded that piece on a copper plate to fit the L32 . Will post results later.

Need a suggestion on what RPM to run the pump?


----------



## v1ral

Anyone know when the G1/4 adapter fitting for the H220x be available?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Anyone know when the G1/4 adapter fitting for the H220x be available?


Micro Center has'em


----------



## v1ral

Which Micro center?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Which Micro center?


http://www.microcenter.com/product/391566/Lok-Seal_15mm_G1-4_Male_to_Female_Fitting_Adapter_Black


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/391566/Lok-Seal_15mm_G1-4_Male_to_Female_Fitting_Adapter_Black


that is totally not what hes looking for....hes looking for the adapter that changes the x variant to g 1/4

Edit: this http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that is totally not what hes looking for....hes looking for the adapter that changes the x variant to g 1/4
> 
> Edit: this http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


Shoul've been more clear








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25826/ex-tub-3466/Swiftech_G14_Thread_MCP30_Pump_Replacement_Outlet_Port_Fitting_G14-OP.html?tl=c101s1332b33


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Shoul've been more clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25826/ex-tub-3466/Swiftech_G14_Thread_MCP30_Pump_Replacement_Outlet_Port_Fitting_G14-OP.html?tl=c101s1332b33


There's no way Swiftech is sending anything to FCPU (who don't have stock btw).


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's no way Swiftech is sending anything to FCPU (who don't have stock btw).


OK you two are throwing bricks for trying to help?
BTW i searched Micro Center boxes where they keep Fittings and have a lot more than posted on the website it wont hurt to try.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> OK you two are throwing bricks for trying to help?
> BTW i searched Micro Center boxes where they keep Fittings and have a lot more than posted on the website it wont hurt to try.


I was trying to prevent that guy from wasting his money sending it to a dead shop with a bad rep.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was trying to prevent that guy from wasting his money sending it to a dead shop with a bad rep.


Just got 2 Phobya UV lights,2 Bitspower 90 degree rotary and Alphacool 240 Radiator from them with no issues.
And 2 Mayhems Dyes Green and UV Green.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Just got 2 Phobya UV lights,2 Bitspower 90 degree rotary and Alphacool 240 Radiator from them with no issues.
> And 2 Mayhems Dyes Green and UV Green.


What you got was old stock they still had, I know for a fact that those companies aren't supporting FCPU anymore. That part you linked is not in stock meaning Swiftech needs to send it to them, and I really doubt they will.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What you got was old stock they still had, I know for a fact that those companies aren't supporting FCPU anymore. That part you linked is not in stock meaning Swiftech needs to send it to them, and I really doubt they will.


Fine , this should be v1ral's choice to check it out . It may or may not be out there but $6 is not a big deal to loose if he really needs it.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*


By the way Modded KOMODO Block for the Titan , fits fine but performance isn't great







will add copper to with some thermal glue for Extra VRMs that aren't covered , and if that doesn't work may have to go with EK. Also adding a 240 rad in PUSH bcz. it feels like a single 320 isn't enough for the both CPU and GPU


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> By the way Modded KOMODO Block for the Titan , fits fine but performance isn't great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will add copper to with some thermal glue for Extra VRMs that aren't covered , and if that doesn't work may have to go with EK. Also adding a 240 rad in PUSH bcz. it feels like a single 320 isn't enough for the both CPU and GPU


Cool! Got pics?

The Swiftech GTX 1080 Komodo LE I have here is great on the core, but not so on the VRMs. This is with good contact on the GTX 1080 reference PCB, that is.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Cool! Got pics?
> 
> The Swiftech GTX 1080 Komodo LE I have here is great on the core, but not so on the VRMs. This is with good contact on the GTX 1080 reference PCB, that is.


What are your temp. On the 1080 runing TimeSpy?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> What are your temp. On the 1080 runing TimeSpy?


Well, another block killed that so I am waiting on a new 1080 to arrive to test everything again. I haven't run TimeSpy yet.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, another block killed that so I am waiting on a new 1080 to arrive to test everything again. I haven't run TimeSpy yet.


A block killed your 1080?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> A block killed your 1080?


Bad O-ring + lots of mounts, it comes with the territory of GPU block/cooler testing and reviews. Could be my fault in not checking the O-rings properly each time but either way, nothing to worry about for customers doing one mount and leak tests.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Bad O-ring + lots of mounts, it comes with the territory of GPU block/cooler testing and reviews. Could be my fault in not checking the O-rings properly each time but either way, nothing to worry about for customers doing one mount and leak tests.


Humm i really wanted a bit more complicated line up but ended up with most simple thing knowing it'll be flushed , basically this was a First Time and a test







new to this.

Few tweaks Small cut in acrylic and small piece of copper to fit L32 on the pcb

Didnt take an image from the copper part , it's not pretty but about 7X7 MM and 1.5 MM deep


----------



## v1ral

Sorry guys!!
I meant to say the adapter fittings as mfknjadagr8 posted.

So is there a reason why even Swiftech don't carry it anymore, I messaged PPCS and they said something like if they don't sale them then they prolly won't carry them anymore *or along the lines of that*.

This fitting is the only bump I am having to going hardline tubing and I was hoping maybe someone in the "know" might have answers.

Thanks for the help nonetheless.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Sorry guys!!
> I meant to say the adapter fittings as mfknjadagr8 posted.
> 
> So is there a reason why even Swiftech don't carry it anymore, I messaged PPCS and they said something like if they don't sale them then they prolly won't carry them anymore *or along the lines of that*.
> 
> This fitting is the only bump I am having to going hardline tubing and I was hoping maybe someone in the "know" might have answers.
> 
> Thanks for the help nonetheless.


you could try the one from frozen cpu but at this point its a gamble...but its cheap so not a big hit if it doesnt get recieved....some have said they got items fine since the meltdown but i might try if the item was hard to find and that cheap


----------



## Caos

h220x prestige in a thermaltake core x31.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> h220x prestige in a thermaltake core x31.


What CPU , Clock , Voltage and Temperatures?


----------



## dVeLoPe

so after a year or two in use on my p55 setup the cooler was giving me terrible performance

after i unmounted my h240-x to use on my new x99 build i noticed after cleaning off the thermal paste with artic clean 2 step cleaner

it was nice and goldish copper looking very minty... now a few days later it is all discolored like yellowish and blackish all on the copper????

is this normal? will it affect cooling?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byc7izbp2uFpam8tUzFIZGpfUVBfNDM4QWZNNHYtQVh6Y0NB/view?usp=sharing

^ a pic of minty looking

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byc7izbp2uFpdUFJZ0ZudEJMOVZManZHUm91MFFWYl9uRGxn/view?usp=sharing

^ a pic of what it looks like now... please give me some advice as i cant afford for my brand new 5820k to get stained IHS after mounting the cooler on it!!!!


----------



## VSG

Gmail links to pictures don't work.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> so after a year or two in use on my p55 setup the cooler was giving me terrible performance
> 
> after i unmounted my h240-x to use on my new x99 build i noticed after cleaning off the thermal paste with artic clean 2 step cleaner
> 
> it was nice and goldish copper looking very minty... now a few days later it is all discolored like yellowish and blackish all on the copper????
> 
> is this normal? will it affect cooling?
> 
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=a7569a63c2&view=att&th=15753eb87caf540f&attid=0.1&disp=safe&realattid=1546210987481235456-local0&zw
> 
> ^ a pic of minty looking
> 
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=a7569a63c2&view=att&th=15753a2086cbf2c6&attid=0.1&disp=safe&realattid=1546205917820747776-local0&zw]
> 
> ^ a pic of what it looks like now... please give me some advice as i cant afford for my brand new 5820k to get stained IHS after mounting the cooler on it!!!!


Yeah you should just post the pics directly. But put them in a "spoiler" .....


----------



## dVeLoPe

edited with upload to my google drive and got a ''shareable link''

please let me know thanks!


----------



## VSG

That's just oxidized copper, mine is looking even worse now. Just brush it with ketchup or mild vinegar while being careful to not get it on anything else, and it will wash off.

Edit: Copper base plate on Apogee XL vs chrome plated copper base plate on Apogee XL2, prime example of why I prefer well plated nickel/chrome any day:


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's just oxidized copper, mine is looking even worse now. Just brush it with ketchup or mild vinegar while being careful to not get it on anything else, and it will wash off.
> 
> Edit: Copper base plate on Apogee XL vs chrome plated copper base plate on Apogee XL2, prime example of why I prefer well plated nickel/chrome any day:


Holy [email protected] I'm about to install one of these https://modmymods.com/alphacool-16-10-compression-fitting-90-revolvable-g1-4-deep-black.html and it's copper base inside , don't have anything similar in this built , should i use it or look for something else?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Holy [email protected] I'm about to install one of these https://modmymods.com/alphacool-16-10-compression-fitting-90-revolvable-g1-4-deep-black.html and it's copper base inside , don't have anything similar in this built , should i use it or look for something else?


Those fittings are brass, not pure copper. The paint will keep them from tarnishing so it's not the same thing. The oxidation is just from the copper base being exposed to air for months, no real performance deficit.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those fittings are brass, not pure copper. The paint will keep them from tarnishing so it's not the same thing. The oxidation is just from the copper base being exposed to air for months, no real performance deficit.


Thank you. Got worried when first saw inside , got bunch of Swiftech and Bitspower fittings and all of those are also painted In and Out.


----------



## dVeLoPe

does that copper one looking all stained afftect what the cpu ihs at al

unfortunately for me it happened within 2 days


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> does that copper one looking all stained afftect what the cpu ihs at al
> 
> unfortunately for me it happened within 2 days


No, it is just oxidation and the IHS will not be affected.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Sorry guys!!
> I meant to say the adapter fittings as mfknjadagr8 posted.
> 
> So is there a reason why even Swiftech don't carry it anymore, I messaged PPCS and they said something like if they don't sale them then they prolly won't carry them anymore *or along the lines of that*.
> 
> This fitting is the only bump I am having to going hardline tubing and I was hoping maybe someone in the "know" might have answers.
> 
> Thanks for the help nonetheless.


If you mean the adapter.. PPCS do have them..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-g1-4-compatible-replacement-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump.html


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> If you mean the adapter.. PPCS do have them..
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-g1-4-compatible-replacement-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump.html


Thanks for the follow up, I messaged PPCS about this and they recently put it back up, they said it wasn't showing up for some reason.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> does that copper one looking all stained afftect what the cpu ihs at al
> 
> unfortunately for me it happened within 2 days


If it is extreme it lowers the heat transfer ability, but the difference is miniscule .. like 0.001c difference if extremely oxidized. What starts out new and shiny becomes aged and tarnished (what you have) and can eventually becomes extreme with a blue/green patina.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Thanks for the follow up, I messaged PPCS about this and they recently put it back up, they said it wasn't showing up for some reason.


ok kool.. I was looking to replace some fitting and I saw it.. I brought mine a while back and it is still in the bag..


----------



## KillerBee33

Hey , does anyone know where i can get a small LED strip like Swiftech Komodo block has?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a slight conundrum here. I need to decide on one of two things.

I want to replace the cpu cooler on my SwiftTech H240-X witha heatkiller Pro IV (Acetal Clean). In this order I also have a new blue window because the current blue window I have is cracked. But I also think I stripped the hole out where the window is cracked on my H240-X (it is not leaking yet and it has been at least 3 months now). If I did that then I would have to order another AIO unit or somehow get the reservoir replaced on this one. This one would cost me a total of about $88 with the other parts I need from Performance PCs. That is if my H240-X does not leak with that possibly stripped thread....

Or I could just go with the H32o-X2 prestige unit just in case. This would cost me a total of about $270 because I would still have to order the other items I need from performancePCS. $27 of that order is both shipping costs.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have a slight conundrum here. I need to decide on one of two things.
> 
> I want to replace the cpu cooler on my SwiftTech H240-X witha heatkiller Pro IV (Acetal Clean). In this order I also have a new blue window because the current blue window I have is cracked. But I also think I stripped the hole out where the window is cracked on my H240-X (it is not leaking yet and it has been at least 3 months now). If I did that then I would have to order another AIO unit or somehow get the reservoir replaced on this one. This one would cost me a total of about $88 with the other parts I need from Performance PCs. That is if my H240-X does not leak with that possibly stripped thread....
> 
> Or I could just go with the H32o-X2 prestige unit just in case. This would cost me a total of about $270 because I would still have to order the other items I need from performancePCS. $27 of that order is both shipping costs.


Hopefully this can help you decide on the H320 X2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Hopefully this can help you decide on the H320 X2


The performance difference on a CPU only loop between an H240-X and H320-X2 is almost nonexistent, and even less when the H240-X is sporting a Heatkiller Pro IV. I'm sure that @Madmaxneo is aware of that.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The performance difference on a CPU only loop between an H240-X and H320-X2 is almost nonexistent, and even less when the H240-X is sporting a Heatkiller Pro IV. I'm sure that @Madmaxneo is aware of that.


Will be returning to GPU+CPU this weekend , also added a 240 30MM Rad in pull for the top. Will post results


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Hopefully this can help you decide on the H320 X2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is tempting but it is so expensive.
I am also no sure I would even use the LEDs on the unit. I primarily want the prestige unit for the fans and the new apogee block. I would be changing out the fittings and tubing to match my current fittings and the UV tubing I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The performance difference on a CPU only loop between an H240-X and H320-X2 is almost nonexistent, and even less when the H240-X is sporting a Heatkiller Pro IV. I'm sure that @Madmaxneo is aware of that.


I am very aware. The Heatkiller Pro has better shown better results in tests than the new apogee block. But right now my system has gone up about 5 degrees and tends to get higher temps overall for normal daily operations. When running stress tests and cpu intensive tasks the unit still performs awesomely though. On the intel burn test I do not get any higher than say 63 deg cel with the temps staying in the mid 50's for the majority of the test.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is tempting but it is so expensive.
> I am also no sure I would even use the LEDs on the unit. I primarily want the prestige unit for the fans and the new apogee block. I would be changing out the fittings and tubing to match my current fittings and the UV tubing I have.
> I am very aware. The Heatkiller Pro has better shown better results in tests than the new apogee block. But right now my system has gone up about 5 degrees and tends to get higher temps overall for normal daily operations. When running stress tests and cpu intensive tasks the unit still performs awesomely though. On the intel burn test I do not get any higher than say 63 deg cel with the temps staying in the mid 50's for the majority of the test.


Yeah , i was thinking of those Noiseblocker Fans but they not worth the money if buying without the Swiftech Prestige unit.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Plus there is no guarantee that my possibly stripped threads will not leak this time. So the conundrum....

Go with the cheaper route with the Heatkiller Pro IV but take the risk of my unit leaking.

Or go the much more expensive route and get the 320 prestige unit.......

I wonder: Has anyone ever tried rethreading threads as small as the ones on the AIO's? I wonder if they even make rethreading kits that small....


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Plus there is no guarantee that my possibly stripped threads will not leak this time. So the conundrum....
> 
> Go with the cheaper route with the Heatkiller Pro IV but take the risk of my unit leaking.
> 
> Or go the much more expensive route and get the 320 prestige unit.......
> 
> I wonder: Has anyone ever tried rethreading threads as small as the ones on the AIO's? I wonder if they even make rethreading kits that small....


All and all I'm still a bit disappointed with the H320 , starting from 1900RPM it has this high pitch humming noise.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Plus there is no guarantee that my possibly stripped threads will not leak this time. So the conundrum....
> 
> Go with the cheaper route with the Heatkiller Pro IV but take the risk of my unit leaking.
> 
> Or go the much more expensive route and get the 320 prestige unit.......
> 
> I wonder: Has anyone ever tried rethreading threads as small as the ones on the AIO's? I wonder if they even make rethreading kits that small....


If it is just one stripped screw you should be ok.. I have two and it didn't leak.. But if it does and you still under warranty they will send you another res to replace the bad one.. One screw broke on mine and Swiftech send me a new one with no problem..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> All and all I'm still a bit disappointed with the H320 , starting from 1900RPM it has this high pitch humming noise.


Nice to know but you are the first I have heard that from.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> If it is just one stripped screw you should be ok.. I have two and it didn't leak.. But if it does and you still under warranty they will send you another res to replace the bad one.. One screw broke on mine and Swiftech send me a new one with no problem..


That is also nice to know. I think I am still under warranty as my unit is less than a year old.

Can anyone possibly recommend a set of fans that may perform better than the Helix fans that came with my H240-X?


----------



## KillerBee33

H320X2+240 30MM radiator CPU+GPU loop , 6700K @ 4.6 @ 1.34V


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> H320X2+240 30MM radiator CPU+GPU loop , 6700K @ 4.6 @ 1.34V
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice color scheme! I am not familiar with that specific 3dmark test so I can't comment on the scores. But your temps are awesome!


----------



## rfarmer

Time Spy is a really demanding test, let's just say my GTX 1070 doesn't score that high.









Nice score and build.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Time Spy is a really demanding test, let's just say my GTX 1070 doesn't score that high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice score and build.


I wouldn't expect it to as his video card is a Titan X pascal.........


----------



## v1ral

Question for any Reps..
When is that new Apogee block being released?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Good luck getting a rep to respond its sad but hes been awol for some time....


----------



## BramSLI1

Let me see if I can get Gabe to respond on that. I'll message him and let him know people are curious about the release of the next Apogee water block


----------



## t1337dude

So...my H240-X is acting up again, now with the RMA pump replacement. Before, my issue is that my fans were turning off (to 0%) on occasion, but over time it increased from over time to all the time. That issue was resolved with an RMA pump replacement many months ago. Now it seems like my issue is the opposite - my fans are now occasionally turning up to 100% for a couple seconds, and it seems to be happening more often as time goes on. Before it happened once a week, then once a day, and now today it has happened 3 times. I guess the RPM signal is having problems?

I really hope I don't have to RMA again!


----------



## s74r1

Sorry Swiftech but I have to say this:

I vaguely follow this thread from time to time but for those on the fence I see recently about upgrading/sidegrading to these Swiftech AIO's I would personally recommend against it based on my experiences with the H240-X which had to be RMA'd 3 times (with 2-3 weeks downtime each time). Once for pump, twice for reservoir cracks. Eventually I requested a MCP50X top for the MCP30 and slowly replaced every part until nothing of the original unit was left (except the tubing).

Can't speak for the newer ones with the round looking reservoir but if what I'm hearing about stripped screws and such is correct, it doesn't seem like build quality improved much...?

As far as pump noise, it may be hit or miss or the way people have it mounted but with no decoupling between pump and radiator it's prone to amplifying any pump noise. I found my pump to have a few sweet spots on RPM speed where it was quiet but not silent. personally I prefer D5's now rather than DDC style pumps like this. I find that all DDC style usually have some sort of rattling sound even with decoupling and noise dampening. D5 isn't perfect either just high pitch whine and low hum which Is inaudible with enough vibration and noise dampening material.

Better off in the long run biting the bullet on price for real parts IMO, or some kits that include quality parts.

That said, I do give props to Swiftech for two things regarding these units:

The ones with Norprene tubing (the X's not prestige I think) is some of the best tubing I've ever used and I still use it in my custom loop. It's got the perfect pliability, durability, and good ID/OD. I can't seem to find any tubing with similar specs but the wall is thinner than the overspecced thick walled PrimoFlex, EK ZMT, and Tygon tubing which come in at around 9.5mm x 15.9mm. it may be true 10mm ID but not entirely sure about OD. It's loose on some compression cuffs but others are fine and can screw down all the way with a tight enough fit without having to use vice grips lol.
From what I understand, Swiftech worked with Mayhems for their coolant that ships in the newer Swiftech AIOs (probably the prestige or any of the units with clear tubing and optional dyes). The coolant is as of now unreleased still, confirmed to be called "XT1 Plus", designed for long term durability
Regarding tubing: Unfortunately they hopped on the bling bandwagon now with clear tubing and dyes (I learned my lesson with dyed coolants many years ago).

But it's sad to see Swiftech fall so far, especially now with Brian gone their great support seems MIA? Swiftech were real innovators who helped shape PC water cooling many years ago and I still cherish many of their older products. I'll save my Corsair rant for another thread but they too cut corners on too many products for cost. I really don't know what market Swiftech is targeting anymore but I have a hard time trusting their reliability (with the exception of rebranded ones such as the MCP655 and such) or performance (seriously guys, time to bring the Apogee XL into this decade not just put a shinny new coat of paint or plating on it. Even Koolance is doing better nowadays, years ago was a MUCH different story.).

Sorry if this offends anyone, this is just my opinion, don't take it as gospel. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but leave flaming to PMs please, as I don't wish to disrupt this thread. I also don't wish to slander Swiftech's name in any way and hope this does not come across as doing so. I just wish Swiftech would step up their game.

Edit: BTW anyone looking to re-use the radiators, this is how I rigged it up. 1mm or thicker copper GPU shim drilled/tapped to M3 screw threads>cut some tubing or use a large rubber washer>screw copper plate to reservoir port to seal it using the existing holes that were used to screw into the reservoir with aprox 20mm or longer screws. (bolts+nuts could work too instead of drilling/tapping m3). Then just use the fillport, but I recommend fittings with low thread depth. The stock Swiftech fittings are good, but a little restrictive (I have many sitting around collecting dust now unfortunately)

Pictures:

plate with washer sealing the empty hole left by removing the reservoir, and fitting on the fillport instead.

radiator with the extra metal sawed off, not necessary but I didn't like the space it was taking up

cone washer which I felt worked the best

CPU/GPU shim asortment from the bay


The washer on bottom was a cone shaped one which seemed to give the best seal since 1mm copper is a bit too thin to clamp tight enough on a large flat washer with just 2 screws/bolts, but I have done both successfully. Gave up on re-using pieces of tubing however, but I still beleive it can be done.

Don't know if this is breaking the ToS posting this, I think posting the store name does so I'll attach a picture of the $1.99 box the washer came in, you can do a google images search for where it's from. Disclaimer: I'm not trying to advertise/buy/sell/trade here.


Edit2: Additionally, I'll add some pictures of my MCP30->MCP50X conversion (still lower RPM than a real MCP50x though) and additionally one of my cracked reservoirs.


----------



## Madmaxneo

So far my H240-X has been performing very well despite all it has been through with me.
I have already replaced the original black tubing with some Primochill Advanced LRT Brilliant Blue UV.
I will be replacing the block probably this weekend with a Heatkiller IV pro Clean Acrylic as long as it arrives in the mail by then. I also have a cracked res window (because of accidentally overtightening one of the screws. I will also be replacing that this weekend and hope it does not leak this time. I plan on drilling a small hole in the new block and putting the Swiftech LED in it. Then again I have some single UV LED's I could use instead...... Decisions.

I may upgrade to the 320-X2 prestige unit in the next few months I am not sure yet.

All in all I am happy with my H240-X but I do understand the gripes people have. Swifttech's customer service is almost non-existent these days.


----------



## zila

That's a real shame. After Bram left it seems everything went to hell. Now I won't touch anything Swiftech.


----------



## Danbeme32

When I had a situation with the screws breaking where I had to remove the res to replace the window. All I did was e-mailed them and they got back to me quickly. After I send them proof of purchase, I had a choice of sending the unit back to them and wait 3 weeks or they could send the part to me.. I show them pics of what happened and then in a week I got my part in the mail..

So must likely now you have to e-mail them about the problem.. So far that worked out for me..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> When I had a situation with the screws breaking where I had to remove the res to replace the window. All I did was e-mailed them and they got back to me quickly. After I send them proof of purchase, I had a choice of sending the unit back to them and wait 3 weeks or they could send the part to me.. I show them pics of what happened and then in a week I got my part in the mail..
> 
> So must likely now you have to e-mail them about the problem.. So far that worked out for me..


i know this time last year they had an active rep and great customer service...from what ive seen lately the rep is missing and the service isnt as fast as it was....theyve been good to me in the past i just hope its still the same...the customer service is what swayed me to buying swiftech waterblocks for my gpus and several fittings...they replaced my mcp50x and even allowed me to try and fix the issue to remedy the problem without rma...and a h220x res window...and a replacement o ring for the center of the cpu block...the last issue was entirely my own stupidity lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i know this time last year they had an active rep and great customer service...from what ive seen lately the rep is missing and the service isnt as fast as it was....theyve been good to me in the past i just hope its still the same...the customer service is what swayed me to buying swiftech waterblocks for my gpus and several fittings...they replaced my mcp50x and even allowed me to try and fix the issue to remedy the problem without rma...and a h220x res window...and a replacement o ring for the center of the cpu block...the last issue was entirely my own stupidity lol


Bryan was a great rep for Swiftech, and provided a lot of goodwill for the company. Since he has left, customer service has been pretty much the same _*when contact instructions provided by Swiftech are followed*_. The big issue I have seen is people who refuse to follow the contact instructions, and think that it is the duty of the manufacturer to scour every thread of every forum on the internet and answer any questions or handle any issues that are posted. 90% of the "customer service issues" I see on OCN are purely the fault of the user (unless they are dealing with ASUS.....that is a seriously bad CS group), and the user refusing to follow RMA procedures.

Having a rep active in forum threads is nice, but absolutely not a duty of the mfg.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Bryan was a great rep for Swiftech, and provided a lot of goodwill for the company. Since he has left, customer service has been pretty much the same _*when contact instructions provided by Swiftech are followed*_. The big issue I have seen is people who refuse to follow the contact instructions, and think that it is the duty of the manufacturer to scour every thread of every forum on the internet and answer any questions or handle any issues that are posted. 90% of the "customer service issues" I see on OCN are purely the fault of the user (unless they are dealing with ASUS.....that is a seriously bad CS group), and the user refusing to follow RMA procedures.
> 
> Having a rep active in forum threads is nice, but absolutely not a duty of the mfg.


Emailed to support last night about a buzzing/homing noise starting from 1900RPM , will post how quickly they respond if any.
EDIT: Quick response from Swiftech , simply check for instructed signs , confirm and replacement will be sent


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Emailed to support last night about a buzzing/homing noise starting from 1900RPM , will post how quickly they respond if any.
> EDIT: Quick response from Swiftech , simply check for instructed signs , confirm and replacement will be sent


great to hear...im going to be purchasing a few more items from them soon...i hope they continue the trend...i was impressed with how prompt and respectful they were of the situation when i had an issue and also the fact they were very clear with what i needed to do each time...some companies say email us this then you do and you get no further instructions unless you put them in a torture chamber and extract it then your ticket gets closed and marked as resolved lol...


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> great to hear...im going to be purchasing a few more items from them soon...i hope they continue the trend...i was impressed with how prompt and respectful they were of the situation when i had an issue and also the fact they were very clear with what i needed to do each time...some companies say email us this then you do and you get no further instructions unless you put them in a torture chamber and extract it then your ticket gets closed and marked as resolved lol...


Yeap, persons name is Mackenzy , simply instructed to check/confirm and my options are : Ship the whole unit out to fix or Wait for new Pump replacement and do it yourself








EDIT: Replacement PUMP shipped. I hope everyone will have same experience with Swiftechs Support


----------



## nhidog

Question, can the h240 x2 be mounted at the bottom of the case? I read that the Predator AIO cannot, is this true for all AIO with resevoir?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i know this time last year they had an active rep and great customer service...from what ive seen lately the rep is missing and the service isnt as fast as it was....theyve been good to me in the past i just hope its still the same...the customer service is what swayed me to buying swiftech waterblocks for my gpus and several fittings...they replaced my mcp50x and even allowed me to try and fix the issue to remedy the problem without rma...and a h220x res window...and a replacement o ring for the center of the cpu block...the last issue was entirely my own stupidity lol
> 
> 
> 
> Bryan was a great rep for Swiftech, and provided a lot of goodwill for the company. Since he has left, customer service has been pretty much the same _*when contact instructions provided by Swiftech are followed*_. The big issue I have seen is people who refuse to follow the contact instructions, and think that it is the duty of the manufacturer to scour every thread of every forum on the internet and answer any questions or handle any issues that are posted. 90% of the "customer service issues" I see on OCN are purely the fault of the user (unless they are dealing with ASUS.....that is a seriously bad CS group), and the user refusing to follow RMA procedures.
> 
> Having a rep active in forum threads is nice, but absolutely not a duty of the mfg.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Bryan was a great rep for Swiftech, and provided a lot of goodwill for the company. Since he has left, customer service has been pretty much the same _*when contact instructions provided by Swiftech are followed*_. The big issue I have seen is people who refuse to follow the contact instructions, and think that it is the duty of the manufacturer to scour every thread of every forum on the internet and answer any questions or handle any issues that are posted. 90% of the "customer service issues" I see on OCN are purely the fault of the user (unless they are dealing with ASUS.....that is a seriously bad CS group), and the user refusing to follow RMA procedures.
> 
> Having a rep active in forum threads is nice, but absolutely not a duty of the mfg.
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed to support last night about a buzzing/homing noise starting from 1900RPM , will post how quickly they respond if any.
> EDIT: Quick response from Swiftech , simply check for instructed signs , confirm and replacement will be sent
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> When I had a situation with the screws breaking where I had to remove the res to replace the window. All I did was e-mailed them and they got back to me quickly. After I send them proof of purchase, I had a choice of sending the unit back to them and wait 3 weeks or they could send the part to me.. I show them pics of what happened and then in a week I got my part in the mail..
> 
> So must likely now you have to e-mail them about the problem.. So far that worked out for me..
> 
> 
> 
> i know this time last year they had an active rep and great customer service...from what ive seen lately the rep is missing and the service isnt as fast as it was....theyve been good to me in the past i just hope its still the same...the customer service is what swayed me to buying swiftech waterblocks for my gpus and several fittings...they replaced my mcp50x and even allowed me to try and fix the issue to remedy the problem without rma...and a h220x res window...and a replacement o ring for the center of the cpu block...the last issue was entirely my own stupidity lol
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> great to hear...im going to be purchasing a few more items from them soon...i hope they continue the trend...i was impressed with how prompt and respectful they were of the situation when i had an issue and also the fact they were very clear with what i needed to do each time...some companies say email us this then you do and you get no further instructions unless you put them in a torture chamber and extract it then your ticket gets closed and marked as resolved lol...
> 
> 
> 
> Yeap, persons name is Mackenzy , simply instructed to check/confirm and my options are : Ship the whole unit out to fix or Wait for new Pump replacement and do it yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Replacement PUMP shipped. I hope everyone will have same experience with Swiftechs Support
Click to expand...

@ciarlatano & @KillerBee33 Agreed, it was a bonus that they had a forum presence (and they are not obliged to) and that support should be judged from using their proper support channels, but I was not only talking about the loss of Bryan/Bram or the lack of a forum presence; I had some bad experiences with his replacement CS rep (who seems to have been replaced again).

@mfknjadagr8 Mackenzy (their second replacement rep, not the above mentioned one) did respond to email quickly last time I had an issue. I too requested a replacement O-Ring set for the Apogee XL since they were getting worn out due to cleaning and they obliged which was nice, but odd they don't sell them separately. I still don't like their self-tapping screws though, easy to strip or crossthread.

@KillerBee33
RE: pump replacement: Interesting, previously I was only given the option to send the entire unit back for pump replacement. I'm glad things have improved a bit there.
RE: Res window: Yeah that is much easier to fix now that they offer res windows as separate products, but they overtighten them from the factory last I checked... and they're far too thin IMO. Don't know about the new round/oval versions in the prestige edition, maybe better quality finally.

Anyways, I'll edit my long post/rant a bit but felt I should share my experiences. I believe these units have been through SEVERAL revisions, I had the original H240-X without bleed screw.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> @ciarlatano & @KillerBee33 Agreed, it was a bonus that they had a forum presence (and they are not obliged to) and that support should be judged from using their proper support channels, but I was not only talking about the loss of Bryan/Bram or the lack of a forum presence; I had some bad experiences with his replacement CS rep (who seems to have been replaced again).
> 
> @mfknjadagr8 Mackenzy (their second replacement rep, not the above mentioned one) did respond to email quickly last time I had an issue. I too requested a replacement O-Ring set for the Apogee XL since they were getting worn out due to cleaning and they obliged which was nice, but odd they don't sell them separately. I still don't like their self-tapping screws though, easy to strip or crossthread.
> 
> @KillerBee33
> RE: pump replacement: Interesting, previously I was only given the option to send the entire unit back for pump replacement. I'm glad things have improved a bit there.
> RE: Res window: Yeah that is much easier to fix now that they offer res windows as separate products, but they overtighten them from the factory last I checked... and they're far too thin IMO. Don't know about the new round/oval versions in the prestige edition, maybe better quality finally.
> 
> Anyways, I'll edit my long post/rant a bit but felt I should share my experiences. I believe these units have been through SEVERAL revisions, I had the original H240-X without bleed screw.


original had the bleed screw that's where mine cracked...the window without bleed screw was the second revision i believe with the first being from shiny crap tubing to neoprene based iirc...then they also integrated the pump and 4 pin pwm connector into the unit instead of having a connector...not sure of other changes


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nhidog*
> 
> Question, can the h240 x2 be mounted at the bottom of the case? I read that the Predator AIO cannot, is this true for all AIO with resevoir?


The correct answer is....it should not be, unless you are going to be adding an additional reservoir. Bottom mounting with the res facing up runs a risk of either the pump getting air bound or the loop using your CPU block as a reservoir.


----------



## v1ral

Update on release date or where to purchase the new Apogee block?


----------



## t1337dude

Somehow it appears my H240-X has run through its coolant in a year. Wild guess but I think it has something to do with my PC occasionally overheating in standby (maybe burning up coolant? Not sure. Anyways, I had no idea i was so low. My temperatures seem fine at the moment but my cooler basically sounds like a waterfall and the reservoir line on it is very low. Can I use distilled water in a pinch? I'm not sure if I have any extra coolant laying around.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Somehow it appears my H240-X has run through its coolant in a year. Wild guess but I think it has something to do with my PC occasionally overheating in standby (maybe burning up coolant? Not sure. Anyways, I had no idea i was so low. My temperatures seem fine at the moment but my cooler basically sounds like a waterfall and the reservoir line on it is very low. Can I use distilled water in a pinch? I'm not sure if I have any extra coolant laying around.


yes you can use distilled...also i would check the window and connections for small leaks...sometimes it doesnt drip but it weeps out and evaporates


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Somehow it appears my H240-X has run through its coolant in a year. Wild guess but I think it has something to do with my PC occasionally overheating in standby (maybe burning up coolant? Not sure. Anyways, I had no idea i was so low. My temperatures seem fine at the moment but my cooler basically sounds like a waterfall and the reservoir line on it is very low. Can I use distilled water in a pinch? I'm not sure if I have any extra coolant laying around.


Topping off with distilled is exactly what is recommended by Swiftech. They advise against mixing coolants, and the coolant used in these is not available separately. You could also drain, flush and refill with the coolant of your choice.


----------



## KillerBee33

About to ship out Second Pump from H320 X2 , first had Loud mosquito noise and this new one has that plus a Tractor noise on top









First pump is missing one of these magnetic pins and second has 2 out of 3 pushed In much further ,
Any one has any suggestions before i contact Swiftech?


----------



## NIK1

Just wondering how much better the NB-eLoop fans on the H240 X2 Prestige perform compared to the Helix 140 mm fans.Also,just out of curiosity, why did swiftech put these fans on instead of the Helix 140's. If they do work better where can I get a pair for my H240x that are the same rpm and cfm like on the Prestige. Any info appreciated..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just wondering how much better the NB-eLoop fans on the H240 X2 Prestige perform compared to the Helix 140 mm fans.Also,just out of curiosity, why did swiftech put these fans on instead of the Helix 140's. If they do work better where can I get a pair for my H240x that are the same rpm and cfm like on the Prestige. Any info appreciated..


A little better performance, but the big aspect is that they are quieter and have a nicer sound profile. The fan Swiftech uses in the kit is not available separately. NB only makes a 1200rpm with PWM.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A little better performance, but the big aspect is that they are quieter and have a nicer sound profile. The fan Swiftech uses in the kit is not available separately. NB only makes a 1200rpm with PWM.


But does NB make a non PWM fan with the same characteristics?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But does NB make a non PWM fan with the same characteristics?


The NB fan is 1200rpm, the Swiftech 1800rpm. Other than that they are identical.


----------



## t1337dude

I guess I have a leak. Huge leak spot on my GPU (thank god for the back plate). I see where it looks like it may have leaked out of one of the tubes, where it's connected to the pump.

Is there anything I can do or a recommended procedure to pinpoint the leak and possibly stop it? Or is this something I should expect to RMA?

Just disappointed because I was expecting to use the PC to play BF1. This leak stuff came out of nowhere.

Opened my PC up, here's a picture:


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I guess I have a leak. Huge leak spot on my GPU (thank god for the back plate). I see where it looks like it may have leaked out of one of the tubes, where it's connected to the pump.
> 
> Is there anything I can do or a recommended procedure to pinpoint the leak and possibly stop it? Or is this something I should expect to RMA?
> 
> Just disappointed because I was expecting to use the PC to play BF1. This leak stuff came out of nowhere.
> 
> Opened my PC up, here's a picture:


I would RMA it. I looks like the O-Ring is leaking


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I guess I have a leak. Huge leak spot on my GPU (thank god for the back plate). I see where it looks like it may have leaked out of one of the tubes, where it's connected to the pump.
> 
> Is there anything I can do or a recommended procedure to pinpoint the leak and possibly stop it? Or is this something I should expect to RMA?
> 
> Just disappointed because I was expecting to use the PC to play BF1. This leak stuff came out of nowhere.
> 
> Opened my PC up, here's a picture:


Shoot a e-mail to Mackenzy Tea ([email protected]) and explain your trouble. He might be able to send you the part. Because if you send it back for fixing it takes around 3 weeks to get it back. I e-mailed Mac send him a pic of the trouble got my RMA and he send the part in one week..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I guess I have a leak. Huge leak spot on my GPU (thank god for the back plate). I see where it looks like it may have leaked out of one of the tubes, where it's connected to the pump.
> 
> Is there anything I can do or a recommended procedure to pinpoint the leak and possibly stop it? Or is this something I should expect to RMA?
> 
> Just disappointed because I was expecting to use the PC to play BF1. This leak stuff came out of nowhere.
> 
> Opened my PC up, here's a picture:


If you don't want to be without it, just get a new fitting. It's standard G1/4. I personally wouldn't RMA the whole unit for a fitting when you can get a better one for a few dollars.


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> First pump is missing one of these magnetic pins and second has 2 out of 3 pushed In much further


We guess that those are impeller magnet stabilizing weight pins. There could be different amount of those and in different places to try to stabilize the impeller to not wobble around the axle?

If someone has actual information about our guess, then please confirm this.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I guess I have a leak. Huge leak spot on my GPU (thank god for the back plate). I see where it looks like it may have leaked out of one of the tubes, where it's connected to the pump.
> 
> Is there anything I can do or a recommended procedure to pinpoint the leak and possibly stop it? Or is this something I should expect to RMA?
> 
> Just disappointed because I was expecting to use the PC to play BF1. This leak stuff came out of nowhere.
> 
> Opened my PC up, here's a picture:


I always had some concerns and suspicions of unreliability about that particular fitting since it's a 90° fitting and receives a lot of stress in most installs. Mine has much more wigglyness (is that a word?) in the rotary part of it than any of the 45° fittings. My guess is the rotary seal inside got loose and leaky (have you moved it a lot and/or had a lot of tube bending stress on it?).

In Swiftech's defense, all rotary seals can go bad if mistreated though but the fittings on the non-prestige ones feel a little on the cheap side the clamps are great though. I replaced mine awhile ago when I converted to custom, have about six 45°, a 90°, and a G1/4 pump adapter from the X series AIOs sitting in my junk/spare parts drawer.


----------



## ciarlatano

@Madmaxneo!!!! Your dream has finally come true!!!!!!!

http://www.overclock3d.net/news/cases_cooling/swiftech_launches_their_apogee_xl2_cpu_cooler/1

But you got the Heatkiller IV already, didn't you?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> @Madmaxneo!!!! Your dream has finally come true!!!!!!!
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/news/cases_cooling/swiftech_launches_their_apogee_xl2_cpu_cooler/1
> 
> But you got the Heatkiller IV already, didn't you?


Yes I did. So far the performance seems the same as with the old Apogee block that came with my H240-X.

It would have been nice to know Swiftech was doing this now as they released this a little to late.

I am still thinking of getting a 320 prestige unit. Not sure as it all depends on the job situation in the next two months.

EDIT: In that article you posted there is mention of Swifttechs Iris RGB LED controller that is used to control the LEDs on the units. I have looked and can't seem to find this Iris RGB LED controller., does anyone have any idea on this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> About to ship out Second Pump from H320 X2 , first had Loud mosquito noise and this new one has that plus a Tractor noise on top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First pump is missing one of these magnetic pins and second has 2 out of 3 pushed In much further ,
> Any one has any suggestions before i contact Swiftech?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *We of Us*
> 
> We guess that those are impeller magnet stabilizing weight pins. There could be different amount of those and in different places to try to stabilize the impeller to not wobble around the axle?
> 
> If someone has actual information about our guess, then please confirm this.


If memory serves me correctly, that's exactly what those are. That's why they'll look different from one impeller to the next.


----------



## t1337dude

Hey! Thanks for the quick replies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you don't want to be without it, just get a new fitting. It's standard G1/4. I personally wouldn't RMA the whole unit for a fitting when you can get a better one for a few dollars.


Good guess - I don't want to be without it.

I put my stress about the situation aside, counted my blessings (that no damage was done to my 1080), re-filled the reservoir with distilled water, and taped densely folded paper towel of of Bounty along where the leak was dripping. Ended up still enjoying myself a night of Battlefield 1. The leak seems minor - my PC has been on for several hours and the reservoir seems roughly at the same level.

Have a recommendation on what fitting I should specifically order?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I always had some concerns and suspicions of unreliability about that particular fitting since it's a 90° fitting and receives a lot of stress in most installs. Mine has much more wigglyness (is that a word?) in the rotary part of it than any of the 45° fittings. My guess is the rotary seal inside got loose and leaky (have you moved it a lot and/or had a lot of tube bending stress on it?).
> 
> In Swiftech's defense, all rotary seals can go bad if mistreated though but the fittings on the non-prestige ones feel a little on the cheap side the clamps are great though. I replaced mine awhile ago when I converted to custom, have about six 45°, a 90°, and a G1/4 pump adapter from the X series AIOs sitting in my junk/spare parts drawer.


My H240-X has been maneuvered in and out of my PC a dozen times for various troubleshooting reasons, and it's just a Corsair 450D (mid-tower) so the unit is undoubtedly a bit of a squeeze. I honestly don't think I've been rough with the unit or put excess amount of stress on the tubing connections. But who am I to say? The way that the whole thing is put together, it appears to me there's always a little bit of stress on the tubing because it's not a straight connection, but curved and snugly attached to fittings. Considering that taking it in or out of my PC has always been a bit of a squeeze, I'd say the tubing has been subject to perhaps more than the usual amount of stress from the typical user - but I'm never aggressive with hardware and never "forced" the tubing into any iffy positions to make it work.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> If memory serves me correctly, that's exactly what those are. That's why they'll look different from one impeller to the next.


Than I'm not sure what the problem is...I don't see anything wrong with any of the 2 Pumps but that noise is unbearable , so frigging Loud i can hear it all over the house when it gets to 2100RPM
The first factory pump had high pitch and new pump added loud tractor engine to it...Took it apart twice to see if anything loose or out of place and nothing seems to be.
Performance is good but that [email protected] noise


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> EDIT: In that article you posted there is mention of Swifttechs Iris RGB LED controller that is used to control the LEDs on the units. I have looked and can't seem to find this Iris RGB LED controller., does anyone have any idea on this?


It has two 3 pin hubs for LED and a small button changing Colors
H320 got LED in the block and on the side of the reservoir

QuickInstallationGuideHxx2series.zip 970k .zip file



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> It has two 3 pin hubs for LED and a small button changing Colors
> H320 got LED in the block and on the side of the reservoir
> 
> QuickInstallationGuideHxx2series.zip 970k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


oh ok, I thought they had finally come out with an actual controller unit, silly me.
This is what was relayed to me by someone on Tom's Hardware: "I plugged the reset button on my case into the two vertical prongs on the swiftech fan hub (as opposed to the motherboard). This allows me to control the LEDs on the swiftech cooler through the reset button on the case." That is more like what I would want to control the LED's, but I would also want some kind of brightness control.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> oh ok, I thought they had finally come out with an actual controller unit, silly me.
> This is what was relayed to me by someone on Tom's Hardware: "I plugged the reset button on my case into the two vertical prongs on the swiftech fan hub (as opposed to the motherboard). This allows me to control the LEDs on the swiftech cooler through the reset button on the case." That is more like what I would want to control the LED's, but I would also want some kind of brightness control.


LOOK Again








3 Brightness Settings.Also , it is a Controller , controlled manually in BIOS . Pump+Fans


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






First Click changes Color ,second and third click changes this colors Brightness, fourth click will change color and so on


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Than I'm not sure what the problem is...I don't see anything wrong with any of the 2 Pumps but that noise is unbearable , so frigging Loud i can hear it all over the house when it gets to 2100RPM
> The first factory pump had high pitch and new pump added loud tractor engine to it...Took it apart twice to see if anything loose or out of place and nothing seems to be.
> Performance is good but that [email protected] noise


Are you certain you bled the unit properly? The only other thing that would cause noise like that would be an off-balance impeller or impeller imperfection. To get two in a row is quite strange. One other thing you can try is to add a drop of dish soap to your coolant. It aids with bleeding and help reduce the noise produced by trapped air.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Are you certain you bled the unit properly? The only other thing that would cause noise like that would be an off-balance impeller or impeller imperfection. To get two in a row is quite strange. One other thing you can try is to add a drop of dish soap to your coolant. It aids with bleeding and help reduce the noise produced by trapped air.


Talked to Swiftech trying to figure out what I might be doing wrong , not a clue. Using this for Coolant so i doubt soap will do any good/bad at this point.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I took both Pumps apart and reinstalled them twice and results are absolutely the same on both.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Talked to Swiftech trying to figure out what I might be doing wrong , not a clue. Using this for Coolant so i doubt soap will do any good/bad at this point.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> I took both Pumps apart and reinstalled them twice and results are absolutely the same on both.


I'm not familiar with that coolant. I hope you're able to get this situation resolved.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that coolant. I hope you're able to get this situation resolved.


Mackenzy is shipping new Pump today , i will ship those two back so they might check if it's me or the pumps.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Mackenzy is shipping new Pump today , i will ship those two back so they might check if it's me or the pumps.


Sounds good.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Sounds good.


The only thing i can think of is the Position of the Unit and if it's that i might have to deal with this noise until new Build. Gonna try and check this time , will have my machine on the side so the unit is on top.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> The only thing i can think of is the Position of the Unit and if it's that i might have to deal with this noise until new Build. Gonna try and check this time , will have my machine on the side so the unit is on top.


You do need to orient the unit so that the pump is under the radiator. If you don't, any air in the unit will get trapped in the pump and make it noisy.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You do need to orient the unit so that the pump is under the radiator. If you don't, any air in the unit will get trapped in the pump and make it noisy.


Wouldn't AIR in Pump be a temporary thing? i mean when filling up i have the Unit standing up and a foot long tube which i fill almost to the top so there's is no time for the pump to run dry.
Right now i get few small bubbles at the top of reservoir when at full speed and thats about an inch away from the pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Wouldn't AIR in Pump be a temporary thing? i mean when filling up i have the Unit standing up and a foot long tube which i fill almost to the top so there's is no time for the pump to run dry.
> Right now i get few small bubbles at the top of reservoir when at full speed and thats about an inch away from the pump.


Not if the unit is installed with the pump above the radiator. The reservoir being housed in the radiator is meant to trap air. In that position any air will simply end up getting stuck in the pump instead of in the reservoir as they're meant to.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Not if the unit is installed with the pump above the radiator. The reservoir being housed in the radiator is meant to trap air. In that position any air will simply end up getting stuck in the pump instead of in the reservoir as they're meant to.


Not sure what you mean by "Pump on Top of Radiator"
This is basically what it is now aside from another rad installed on top


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by "Pump on Top of Radiator"
> This is basically what it is now aside from another rad installed on top
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That should be fine. I thought you had it installed on the bottom of your case with the pump above the radiator. Oriented in the front of the case like that should be fine.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> That should be fine. I thought you had it installed on the bottom of your case with the pump above the radiator. Oriented in the front of the case like that should be fine.


Uhumm , everything seems to be up to standards , another thing , maybe my motherboard isn't feeding enough power or voltage , not sure what else it might be but yes 2 In the Row is quite odd


----------



## s74r1

Not trying to be negative here but, considering Swiftech produces a nearly identical model pump at higher RPM - the MCP50X (the same top even fits), perhaps these MCP30's are ones that didn't quite make the cut for the higher rpm models due to slight manufacturing flaws? chip makers often bin chips to improve yields, so I could see this being a possibility and maybe the reason for added pump noise. I could be wrong though, I haven't opened up the pump further than just changing tops.

Edit: Or if the internals are different (which they probably are to limit the RPM) maybe the rotor part they bin at the factory and if it's too far out of spec for a MCP50X they'll stick it in a MCP30?

Edit: Also, there's zero pump decoupling in AIOs like this so the radiator and chassis will amplify everything. Could try decoupling the rad+res+pump from the chassis with some kind of vibration dampening kit though. There's also usually a sweet spot on RPM for most pumps for noise which varies from pump to pump. Once I find that sweet spot I usually just leave it at that speed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Not trying to be negative here but, considering Swiftech produces a nearly identical model pump at higher RPM - the MCP50X (the same top even fits), perhaps these MCP30's are ones that didn't quite make the cut for the higher rpm models due to slight manufacturing flaws? chip makers often bin chips to improve yields, so I could see this being a possibility and maybe the reason for added pump noise. I could be wrong though, I haven't opened up the pump further than just changing tops.
> 
> Edit: Or if the internals are different (which they probably are to limit the RPM) maybe the rotor part they bin at the factory and if it's too far out of spec for a MCP50X they'll stick it in a MCP30?
> 
> Edit: Also, there's zero pump decoupling in AIOs like this so the radiator and chassis will amplify everything. Could try decoupling the rad+res+pump from the chassis with some kind of vibration dampening kit though. There's also usually a sweet spot on RPM for most pumps for noise which varies from pump to pump. Once I find that sweet spot I usually just leave it at that speed.


the impeller is different iirc from past postings on this...they improved several aspects from the mcp35x to the mcp50x...the mcp30 is what was in the aios iirc and its simply a lower rpm version of the 35x if im wrong here im sure ciar will chime in


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Not trying to be negative here but, considering Swiftech produces a nearly identical model pump at higher RPM - the MCP50X (the same top even fits), perhaps these MCP30's are ones that didn't quite make the cut for the higher rpm models due to slight manufacturing flaws? chip makers often bin chips to improve yields, so I could see this being a possibility and maybe the reason for added pump noise. I could be wrong though, I haven't opened up the pump further than just changing tops.
> 
> Edit: Or if the internals are different (which they probably are to limit the RPM) maybe the rotor part they bin at the factory and if it's too far out of spec for a MCP50X they'll stick it in a MCP30?
> 
> Edit: Also, there's zero pump decoupling in AIOs like this so the radiator and chassis will amplify everything. Could try decoupling the rad+res+pump from the chassis with some kind of vibration dampening kit though. There's also usually a sweet spot on RPM for most pumps for noise which varies from pump to pump. Once I find that sweet spot I usually just leave it at that speed.
> 
> 
> 
> the impeller is different iirc from past postings on this...they improved several aspects from the mcp35x to the mcp50x...the mcp30 is what was in the aios iirc and its simply a lower rpm version of the 35x if im wrong here im sure ciar will chime in
Click to expand...

the mcp35x tops are incompatible with the mcp30's in these, only the mcp50x tops fit, so these are lower rpm versions of the mcp50x.

Here's my MCP30 with a MCP50X top



I believe the mcp35x was just a laing ddc with a better top. not entirely sure though. but it's conceivable if the MCP30 was derived from the MCP50X's then they _could_ be just lower binned models, that's just my suspicion anyhow.

Edit: actually the MCP35x added PWM support as well as the improved pump top. that still doesn't really mean it's not still a laing ddc though, there's D5's with PWM IC's in them too. MCP350X top is entirely different and isn't interchangeable with laing ddc's form factor/shape.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I believe the mcp35x was just a laing ddc with a better top. not entirely sure though. but it's conceivable if the MCP30 was derived from the MCP50X's then they _could_ be just lower binned models, that's just my suspicion anyhow.
> 
> Edit: actually the MCP35x added PWM support as well as the improved pump top. that still doesn't really mean it's not still a laing ddc though, there's D5's with PWM IC's in them too. MCP350X top is entirely different and isn't interchangeable with laing ddc's form factor/shape.


Yes, the MCP35X is a Laing DDC with PWM, different top and a couple of tweaks. That is a well known bit of info that is likely right on the Swiftech site.

The MCP30 and MCP50X are designed and manufactured by Swiftech. They are intentionally different and are specifically manufactured, it is not a binning process.


----------



## alphaomega0

Hi guys
i was planning on getting the h320 x2 prestige. after a few pages with people having issues now i am a bit hesitant to get it. right now it would be to replace the h100 on a 2700k sandy but eventually i would make the switch to kaby lake. what are your thoughts,should i get the x320? would this also be able to support next generation of cpu sockets? also a bit worried about coolant leaking, like some people seem to have.

lastly, would this fit into a termaltake lvl 10 gt? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192
thanks for any input


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphaomega0*
> 
> Hi guys
> i was planning on getting the h320 x2 prestige. after a few pages with people having issues now i am a bit hesitant to get it. right now it would be to replace the h100 on a 2700k sandy but eventually i would make the switch to kaby lake. what are your thoughts,should i get the x320? would this also be able to support next generation of cpu sockets? also a bit worried about coolant leaking, like some people seem to have.
> 
> lastly, would this fit into a termaltake lvl 10 gt? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192
> thanks for any input


I believe that they have worked out all the kinks in this unit. I think this would be a great upgrade from a H100i. I have never heard of a kaby lake so no thoughts there...
As far as it fitting in that case, I don't really think so. I believe that case can only fit up to a 280mm rad (maybe not even that) so you might be better off with the H240-X2 prestige instead.
Edit: I just read in their description that a 240mm rad is the max size, so a H240-X2 prestige is your best bet.


----------



## rfarmer

Kaby Lake is the next generation of Intel processors after Skylake and will continue using 1151 socket motherboards, so all coolers that support 115X socket should work.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Didn't know that.... I am surprised they've been sticking with socket 1151 for so long.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe that they have worked out all the kinks in this unit. I think this would be a great upgrade from a H100i. I have never heard of a kaby lake so no thoughts there...
> As far as it fitting in that case, I don't really think so. I believe that case can only fit up to a 280mm rad (maybe not even that) so you might be better off with the H240-X2 prestige instead.
> Edit: I just read in their description that a 240mm rad is the max size, so a H240-X2 prestige is your best bet.


The H2*2*0-X2 is the 240mm.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H2*2*0-X2 is the 240mm.


(Opps!)
Yeah, what he said....lol


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphaomega0*
> 
> Hi guys
> i was planning on getting the h320 x2 prestige. after a few pages with people having issues now i am a bit hesitant to get it. right now it would be to replace the h100 on a 2700k sandy but eventually i would make the switch to kaby lake. what are your thoughts,should i get the x320? would this also be able to support next generation of cpu sockets? also a bit worried about coolant leaking, like some people seem to have.
> 
> lastly, would this fit into a termaltake lvl 10 gt? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133192
> thanks for any input


most of the issues were with the older units. consider me a beta tester lol. prestige units use real fittings (Swiftech Lok-Seal compression fittings & rotaries), a better reservoir (oval shaped from what I see, instead of square with weak plexi), and good coolant (some specially developed stuff by Mayhems for long-term usage). I'm not sure if they're still using the cheaper pump though or if they fixed the issues with it if they are still. if issues are fixed, they're great units to start with and you can always expand later (though the Apogee XL block is still outdated, Swiftech is probably waiting for the next socket to finalize a new block but I assume they'll sell a mounting kit for newer CPU sockets). either way it'll still perform a lot better than any CLC.

On a side note, the H240-X piqued my interest in water cooling again after going air/clc for years. I've spent so much on custom loops lately after I got tired of all the H240-X issues.

Edit: I can't officially confirm whether the prestige units still have issues or not since I don't own one, but it appears they improved them a lot since the originals (which had plasticizer issues and other failures, then the X's which they switched to rubber tubing but were plagued with pump failures/noise and cracking reservoir windows due to thin plexi with screws over-tightened)


----------



## alphaomega0

thanks for the reply, i kinda knew the max was 240, but was hopping there was a way to fit this. is it possible to mount this on the outside,? wanted to eventually get a block for my 1080 and i think the 220 wouldn't cut it. i also heavily oc my system so i want to have the biggest possible rad in there. btw how often do you need to top up the coolent in these things? and should i buy extra when a get a unit?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphaomega0*
> 
> thanks for the reply, i kinda knew the max was 240, but was hopping there was a way to fit this. is it possible to mount this on the outside,? wanted to eventually get a block for my 1080 and i think the 220 wouldn't cut it. i also heavily oc my system so i want to have the biggest possible rad in there. btw how often do you need to top up the coolent in these things? and should i buy extra when a get a unit?


H320 and H240 have almost identical performance . H320 in my case does the job keeping 6700K @ 4.6 @ 1.44V under 70 and TitanXP under 55
i do have an extra 220 radiator mounted on top in push position . You can try and mount whichever unit you go with outside the case and on it's sides. Also leaks known to be on old units. New units reservoirs are a solid piece.


----------



## alphaomega0

which case are you using? think i am going to get this case
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002939 what do you guys think?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphaomega0*
> 
> which case are you using? think i am going to get this case
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002939 what do you guys think?


That is a real nice case but not for me as I do not like open air cases.
I currently use a Phantom 820 which is an awesome case. But may go with a cube style case for my next build.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that coolant. I hope you're able to get this situation resolved.


Weeks later and 3 Pumps later







it was a Faulty PWM controller , i kind of felt like Pump wasn't at fault here. Connected pump straight to the mobo and rumbling tractor noise is gone , can barely hear it even @ 3000 RPM , now i'm not sure if that controller also messed with the FANS but they now have a very loud mosquito noise anywhere after 1000 RPM so i went ahead and just ordered 3 of these








http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-pwm-fan-800-2000-rpm.html
By the way Swiftech Support is awesome !


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillerBee33*
> 
> Weeks later and 3 Pumps later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it was a Faulty PWM controller , i kind of felt like Pump wasn't at fault here. Connected pump straight to the mobo and rumbling tractor noise is gone , can barely hear it even @ 3000 RPM , now i'm not sure if that controller also messed with the FANS but they now have a very loud mosquito noise anywhere after 1000 RPM so i went ahead and just ordered 3 of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-b12-p-120mm-x-25mm-ultra-silent-bionic-blade-pwm-fan-800-2000-rpm.html
> By the way Swiftech Support is awesome !


i hope this fans convert the smell of a fart in a ocean-fresh breeze for this price^^

And that a pwm controller can kill a pump or a fan.. wow. didnt know that


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i hope this fans convert the smell of a fart in a ocean-fresh breeze for this price^^
> 
> And that a pwm controller can kill a pump or a fan.. wow. didnt know that


It didn't kill the pump just sent wrong Power/Voltage thru .But it might've burned the fans a bit.


----------



## Caos

Hello, today after 5 or 6 months old, had a leak in the cpu block, do not know how it happened. drip a little about my gtx 1080 strix, I could dry where I can buy a new cpu block for my H220 x2 and as clean inside?





cpu block doubt this can change the color to be blue? or is just red?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl2-performance-water-block-ppcs-custom-rog-edition-model.html


----------



## EarlZ

I had my H220X about a month after it came out or so and to my surprise the coolant is now murky green and a lot has evaporated, I kinda expected it to be maintenance free for the first 3years or maybe I expected too much ?

I had a very tiny of airpocket when I got the cooler but now its very huge, I am not im a position yet to make any cleaning but will this be safe to operate in the next 3-6 months ?

14915012_10154751008809954_131917486_n.jpg 85k .jpg file


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hello, today after 5 or 6 months old, had a leak in the cpu block, do not know how it happened. drip a little about my gtx 1080 strix, I could dry where I can buy a new cpu block for my H220 x2 and as clean inside?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpu block doubt this can change the color to be blue? or is just red?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-apogee-xl2-performance-water-block-ppcs-custom-rog-edition-model.html


That appears to be a leak from the fitting connection, not from the block. If so, you likely just need a new o-ring. Can you point out exactly where the leak is coming from?


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That appears to be a leak from the fitting connection, not from the block. If so, you likely just need a new o-ring. Can you point out exactly where the leak is coming from?


Hi. I checked the leak, and comes from the block. the back of the chrome portion

would have warranty? I can do RMA?

UPDATE: I fast RMA, Swiftech behaved wonderfully. Excellent

a doubt. as I can clean inside the reservoir?


----------



## Streetdragon

warm water and lemon juice. maybe vinegar and warm water.

And a lot of shaking^^


----------



## ydrogios

Service sucks.I try to contact them to send them my broken H220 and no one answer my emails.So i still have it in my closet and broken


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ydrogios*
> 
> Service sucks.I try to contact them to send them my broken H220 and no one answer my emails.So i still have it in my closet and broken


http://www.swiftech.com/techsupport.aspx

Post in their forums, there's a link to them on top the site I posted above.

Try calling the number in the link posted above.

Try e-mailing them again. Check your spam folder to see if they responded and maybe it was filtered by your email client.


----------



## confed

Customer service has definitely seen a big drop here since Bram left the company. Took me around a week to speak to a representative and come to an amicable resolution through conventional email means.

And by amicable resolution, I mean I took the advice here, tore down the unit, cleaned it, and replaced the tubing and fluid. Haha.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ydrogios*
> 
> Service sucks.I try to contact them to send them my broken H220 and no one answer my emails.So i still have it in my closet and broken


E-mail this guy Mackenzy Tea .. He will get back to you quickly.. But hopefully he still there..


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> E-mail this guy Mackenzy Tea .. He will get back to you quickly.. But hopefully he still there..


Yes. Mackenzy Tia helped me with my cpu block, rma super fast. Contact


----------



## VSG

Him*

He's a helpful guy, I can vouch. Probably overburdened though.


----------



## Caos

Block leak, swiftech send me a replacement. But my question is, I have to screw to the maximum when I put it by the cpu?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Block leak, swiftech send me a replacement. But my question is, I have to screw to the maximum when I put it by the cpu?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not exactly sure what you are asking. But you are supposed to have all four screws at least hand tight all the way down.


----------



## solarin006

So I bought a H320 X2 Prestige and have ran into some problems. I hooked it up to a psu, leak checked it and it seemed to be fine. Put it in a case and mounted it, and with the hoses being so long and putting pressure on the 45 degree swivels on the block, the swivels started to leak. Not drops, but you could feel fluid weeping out of them.

No big deal, went to microcenter and bought a couple of bitspower 45 degree fittings and they don't fit the threaded holes on the block. Attempted to force it and chipped the acrylic threads on the top of the block (my fault). So I ordered a new apogee XL2 and the replacement has the same issue. The G 1/4 threads machined in the acrylic block seem to fit swiftech's included fittings but are cut just a bit too tight to fit others. Bought a 1/4-19 BSPP tap off of mcmaster.com, recut the threads, installed the new fittings, and now I'm leak checking again. I also ended up having to use the original (apogee xl2) base and the new top because the new base seems to have a pretty significant convex curve to it.

I can't say that I'm super impressed with the level of QC from swiftech's products recently. I have a H240X in another machine that I've had absolutely no issues with, and figured their new products would be more of the same.


----------



## Zillerella

Anyone that might be able to ID what this green stuff is building up inside my H220X. It is one if the earlier models almost 2 years old. Also the walls around the green walls also are switching color to brown/green ish?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Anyone that might be able to ID what this green stuff is building up inside my H220X. It is one if the earlier models almost 2 years old. Also the walls around the green walls also are switching color to brown/green ish?


That looks like the start of the issue that they were having in the initial run that was caused by plasticizer from the tubing. If you contact Swiftech customer service I believe they will provide the upgraded tubing at no charge, or at a very minimal cost. Drain it, flush it and refill it with Mayhems X1 or similar when you get the new tubing and the problem should be taken care of.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Anyone that might be able to ID what this green stuff is building up inside my H220X. It is one if the earlier models almost 2 years old. Also the walls around the green walls also are switching color to brown/green ish?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It could also be algae build up after all this time.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It could also be algae build up after all this time.


Could be. In which case the aforementioned change the tubing, flush it and use new coolant still applies.

You could also run Mayhems Blitz Pt 2 to be safe. The stuff does wonders.


----------



## Zillerella

Newer tried that before, but I will give it a shot and contact Swiftech. thanks.

If I do this which coolant to get? And what is the Mayhems Blitz Pt 2?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Newer tried that before, but I will give it a shot and contact Swiftech. thanks.
> 
> If I do this which coolant to get? And what is the Mayhems Blitz Pt 2?


Get Mayhems X1 coolant, either premixed or concentrate to add to distilled. It is tried and true, and recommended by Swiftech.

Blitz Pt 2 is a cleaner that you run for 24 hours in your loop, then drain and flush twice before refilling. It will clean your block, rad and res of anything hanging on. It gets rid of that browning you are noticing very well.


----------



## Zillerella

http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/faerdigblandet-365c1.html

Do they have the Mayhems x1 coolant? They have some buy I dont know if it's the X1.

And if I can't get the tubing from Swiftech, is it then just easier to buy a new unit? and which one then?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/faerdigblandet-365c1.html
> 
> Do they have the Mayhems x1 coolant? They have some buy I dont know if it's the X1.
> 
> And if I can't get the tubing from Swiftech, is it then just easier to buy a new unit? and which one then?


I see you can purchase clear tubing from Swiftech but I do not see the Mayhems X1. You can get both the tubing and the Mayhems X1 from Amazon, ebay, Newegg, Performance PCs, etc, etc. But, assuming you are new to this, when you purchase tubing you will need a tube cutter also.

If you need help with this just ask and someone in here (more qualified than I am) should answer and give you some pointers. I can help but I usually do not check here often enough to provide quick feedback.


----------



## pocholo01

Finally found a gpu block..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Finally found a gpu block..


Make sure you get some heatsinks on the VRM.


----------



## pocholo01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Make sure you get some heatsinks on the VRM.


okay.. just checked a online store.. they have the following

thermal adhesive tape
thermal pad
thermal plaster

which is best?


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> Finally found a gpu block..


What GPU block did you get?


----------



## tbone8ty

my swiftech lasted well up until now. the plastic head of the screw fell off. and air is entering. and leaking alot.

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/DSC_0330_zpswoo5nvi9.jpg.html

anybody know the thread size?


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbone8ty*
> 
> my swiftech lasted well up until now. the plastic head of the screw fell off. and air is entering. and leaking alot.
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/DSC_0330_zpswoo5nvi9.jpg.html
> 
> anybody know the thread size?


E-mail Swiftech. They will send you another window without the screw hole in it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> E-mail Swiftech. They will send you another window without the screw hole in it.


this if you use a metal screw it will cause the window acrylic to crack and really leak...even the poly screw causes this sometimes...i ised a small rubber stopper for a few months but its not easy to find one that fits i found one by chance in a mixed bin so im not sure what its actual size was


----------



## tbone8ty

What was the purpose of the little screw anyways?


----------



## Danbeme32

It was suppose to help with topping off the water or taking out the air bubbles while refilling it but the window would crack for so many people. so they redesigned it without the hole..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> It was suppose to help with topping off the water or taking out the air bubbles while refilling it but the window would crack for so many people. so they redesigned it without the hole..


yeah it was a failure at its intended purpose...i feel as though it actually hindered the bleeding process....


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah it was a failure at its intended purpose...i feel as though it actually hindered the bleeding process....


Have you tried sealing it with scilicone from the outside?
That might help atleast until you get a new window...


----------



## confed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/faerdigblandet-365c1.html
> 
> Do they have the Mayhems x1 coolant? They have some buy I dont know if it's the X1.
> 
> And if I can't get the tubing from Swiftech, is it then just easier to buy a new unit? and which one then?


I used the Mayhems Pastel Orange Concentrate. Looks like the site you linked has it pre-mixed. I had issues with my H220 and posted here not too long ago. Grabbed the Mayhems Pastel Orange, some Primochill clear tubing in the right size, cleaned out the loop and flushed it multiple times with distilled water, cut the tubing to my desired size and installed everything together. Felt good to break it down and put it back together since I never did that before. You can search my name in this thread to see the posts and responses I received previously. I would recommend cleaning and upgrading your current system, rather than buying a new one. The coolant and tubing was around $30 and if I messed up, I would then just buy a new unit. $30 is a good initial investment to see if you can follow directions and learn something new!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pocholo01*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally found a gpu block..


What GPU and CPU are you running? Are either overclocked? Looks you should have some more rad space if you are running GPU and CPU off of the 240mm. The tubing could be shortened as well. I think if you clean up that cable management it will look amazing. Good job so far.


----------



## Jj333 33

Hey so I'm building a new skylake rig, and I decided to go with the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige. When I received the unit I noticed that the packaging inside the box was a little wet. I visually inspected all the the fittings and reservoir and such and didn't see anything wrong with them. I also checked to make sure all the fittings were tight by just my fingers, and one of the fittings was slightly loose, and by slightly loose I mean when I turned it with my fingers it only turned about 1/16 of a turn. I then proceeded to plug it in and short the psu to run the swiftech unit by itself. I ran it for about 1.5 hours checking on it and all the fittings etc. every 10 minutes and didn't find any leaks. Is it safe to hook everything all up and start up my new rig, or is there a chance that there could be a leak somewhere? I couldn't see any leaks, but I'm a bit paranoid of ruining my brand new gear.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jj333 33*
> 
> Hey so I'm building a new skylake rig, and I decided to go with the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige. When I received the unit I noticed that the packaging inside the box was a little wet. I visually inspected all the the fittings and reservoir and such and didn't see anything wrong with them. I also checked to make sure all the fittings were tight by just my fingers, and one of the fittings was slightly loose, and by slightly loose I mean when I turned it with my fingers it only turned about 1/16 of a turn. I then proceeded to plug it in and short the psu to run the swiftech unit by itself. I ran it for about 1.5 hours checking on it and all the fittings etc. every 10 minutes and didn't find any leaks. Is it safe to hook everything all up and start up my new rig, or is there a chance that there could be a leak somewhere? I couldn't see any leaks, but I'm a bit paranoid of ruining my brand new gear.


. It is hard to say at this point. I would definitely run it for a few more hours at least, plus I would put some paper towels under it in the PC so any leaks will have a much less of a chance or damaging anything important.


----------



## sav4

Hey all I need to check my level in my h240x and was thinking of draining it while I was there is ek evo clear ok or is mayhem x1 prefered I will be going premixed?
Stores I have available
https://www.ple.com.au/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryId=683

https://www.pccasegear.com/category/207_160_301/cooling/water-cooling/coolants-additives

Also what tim are you guys using I was going to get some gc extreme but none available. I was thinking grizzly hydronaut or noctua nt-h1

Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Hey all I need to check my level in my h240x and was thinking of draining it while I was there is ek evo clear ok or is mayhem x1 prefered I will be going premixed?
> Stores I have available
> https://www.ple.com.au/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryId=683
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/category/207_160_301/cooling/water-cooling/coolants-additives
> 
> Also what tim are you guys using I was going to get some gc extreme but none available. I was thinking grizzly hydronaut or noctua nt-h1
> 
> Thanks


Guess what.....EK EVO is simply Mayhems X1 in a different bottle and priced higher to give EK some profit.

Personal preference, but I like NT-H1 better than the Hydronaut. I find it much easier to get an even spread with, and performance difference is very minimal.


----------



## csemoses

Hey folks, i've read a few times that this unit (H220-x2) should not be mounted vertically (ie. standing up in the front of a case)

Why is that?

Noted that Linus tech tips stated that they mounted it like that i noted no difference in performance.

A reliability issue perhaps?


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csemoses*
> 
> Hey folks, i've read a few times that this unit (H220-x2) should not be mounted vertically (ie. standing up in the front of a case)
> 
> Why is that?
> 
> Noted that Linus tech tips stated that they mounted it like that i noted no difference in performance.
> 
> A reliability issue perhaps?


H320 X2 mounted in front of the case standing up and as Intake for over 5 months with no issues in a GPU+CPU Loop. Plus if it leaks it wont be anywhere near expensive hardware


----------



## csemoses

... if it leaks at the rad/res... lol....

thanks man.


----------



## KillerBee33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csemoses*
> 
> ... if it leaks at the rad/res... lol....
> 
> thanks man.


Pump or Reservoir .... if those leak , there are no components around , just a bottom of the case.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Guess what.....EK EVO is simply Mayhems X1 in a different bottle and priced higher to give EK some profit.
> 
> Personal preference, but I like NT-H1 better than the Hydronaut. I find it much easier to get an even spread with, and performance difference is very minimal.


Thank you for the info very interesting about the coolants .


----------



## VSG

I don't think EK Ekoolant Evo is Mayhems X1 actually. The EK Pastel coolants are based off Mayhems Pastel and Mayhems dyes.


----------



## Zillerella

Took apart my H220-X to clean it and it defo needed that. So much green stuff (corrsosion?) was build up inside it.

Waiting for new tubing and coolant.

Using my Noctua NH-U12S and it got better temps than the AIO :O


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Took apart my H220-X to clean it and it defo needed that. So much green stuff (corrsosion?) was build up inside it.
> 
> Waiting for new tubing and coolant.
> 
> Using my Noctua NH-U12S and it got better temps than the AIO :O


It's probably just die pigments collecting. They were all over the fins on my H220 block as well, but it's nothing a brand new toothbrush can't handle. If there's discoloration, you may have to use acid or vinegar and salt to try to fix it.

On another note, the ceramic shaft bearing base broke inside the pump -- probably a bit too much pressure from the toothbrush cleaning. The shaft now won't stay in place, so the pump is gone for good. However, I just removed the impeller completely and use it as a block. Seems to be cooling my X5470 at 4.44GHz fairly well, where my Hyper 212 Evo was unable to handle any load above 4.2GHz.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> It's probably just die pigments collecting. They were all over the fins on my H220 block as well, but it's nothing a brand new toothbrush can't handle. If there's discoloration, you may have to use acid or vinegar and salt to try to fix it.


You are probally right, but fully cleaned now and ready to go as soon as I get some replacement parts.


----------



## t1337dude

Reporting a quick incident with my H-220 X2 AIO that I've had for roughly a year. My GF was using my PC while I was at work yesterday and told it was running slow all day. I took a peak and saw that my CPU temps have been sitting at 100 Celcius (likely all day). Opened up the PC and saw that the pump wasn't doing anything. Literally, I tap the pump with my finger twice, and it starts running again. Since that incident yesterday, it's been okay.

Is my pump beginning to fail? This would be my 2nd Swiftech AIO with a pump that failed in under 1 year of use. I'm glad the pump isn't dead YET, but it really eats at me knowing that my CPU was sitting at dangerous temperatures all day. Undoubtedly it has had its lifetime and capabilities impacted by such thermal abuse.


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Reporting a quick incident with my H-220 X2 AIO that I've had for roughly a year. My GF was using my PC while I was at work yesterday and told it was running slow all day. I took a peak and saw that my CPU temps have been sitting at 100 Celcius (likely all day). Opened up the PC and saw that the pump wasn't doing anything. Literally, I tap the pump with my finger twice, and it starts running again. Since that incident yesterday, it's been okay.
> 
> Is my pump beginning to fail? This would be my 2nd Swiftech AIO with a pump that failed in under 1 year of use. I'm glad the pump isn't dead YET, but it really eats at me knowing that my CPU was sitting at dangerous temperatures all day. Undoubtedly it has had its lifetime and capabilities impacted by such thermal abuse.


That is indeed a half-dead pump and regardless of anything, _remove that cooler immediately!_ having the CPU reach that high for an extended period of time would have potentially destroyed the coolant and possibly the pump housing, if it hasn't stopped working completely or started leaking it will quite likely do either very soon.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> Reporting a quick incident with my H-220 X2 AIO that I've had for roughly a year. My GF was using my PC while I was at work yesterday and told it was running slow all day. I took a peak and saw that my CPU temps have been sitting at 100 Celcius (likely all day). Opened up the PC and saw that the pump wasn't doing anything. Literally, I tap the pump with my finger twice, and it starts running again. Since that incident yesterday, it's been okay.
> 
> Is my pump beginning to fail? This would be my 2nd Swiftech AIO with a pump that failed in under 1 year of use. I'm glad the pump isn't dead YET, but it really eats at me knowing that my CPU was sitting at dangerous temperatures all day. Undoubtedly it has had its lifetime and capabilities impacted by such thermal abuse.


A major flaw of the pumpblock is that the pump only operates up to 60C and it's sitting directly on top of a heat source, which can operate up to 100C. Under heavy compiling or benching loads, my H220 would repeatedly stall as well. In a custom loop, the pump will never reach 60C due to it being away from a major heat source and ambient water temps are not normally very high above ambient.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul17041993*
> 
> That is indeed a half-dead pump and regardless of anything, _remove that cooler immediately!_ having the CPU reach that high for an extended period of time would have potentially destroyed the coolant and possibly the pump housing, if it hasn't stopped working completely or started leaking it will quite likely do either very soon.


That's interesting. When my pump failed last time with my H-240 X on my other rig, I don't recall anyone making any concern that my entire cooler would need to be replaced. I repeatedly noted that my unit was operating at dangerous temperatures for my pump sporadically stopped working, and that this issue persisted for quite some time. All they did was offer to replace my pump. Quite some time after replacing my pump (and I posted about it in this thread the day before the launch of BF1), my H-240 X started leaking (and all over my GPU). Nothing was damaged, but I did wrap the leak in paper towels, and after adjusting the positioning of the tubing a bit, it appears the leaking had stopped. I'm still using that H-240 X and haven't replaced the parts in question (and still have it wrapped up), seems to be doing okay at the moment.

So I'm still using my H-220 X2. It would be extra bad if it started leaking though because in this M-ITX build, my mobo is laying flat and the H-220 X2 is directly above it. I can't just take it out. I really need to use this PC, and have no other heatsinks on hand.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> A major flaw of the pumpblock is that the pump only operates up to 60C and it's sitting directly on top of a heat source, which can operate up to 100C. Under heavy compiling or benching loads, my H220 would repeatedly stall as well. In a custom loop, the pump will never reach 60C due to it being away from a major heat source and ambient water temps are not normally very high above ambient.


The pumps in the newer AIOs are on the reservoir by the radiator, not on the CPU block.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The pumps in the newer AIOs are on the reservoir by the radiator, not on the CPU block.


Thanks. Missed the X2 qualifier. However, do you think the pump sitting on top of the CPU is the primary reason the original H220 was notorious for stalling?


----------



## Paul17041993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> That's interesting. When my pump failed last time with my H-240 X on my other rig, I don't recall anyone making any concern that my entire cooler would need to be replaced. I repeatedly noted that my unit was operating at dangerous temperatures for my pump sporadically stopped working, and that this issue persisted for quite some time. All they did was offer to replace my pump. Quite some time after replacing my pump (and I posted about it in this thread the day before the launch of BF1), my H-240 X started leaking (and all over my GPU). Nothing was damaged, but I did wrap the leak in paper towels, and after adjusting the positioning of the tubing a bit, it appears the leaking had stopped. I'm still using that H-240 X and haven't replaced the parts in question (and still have it wrapped up), seems to be doing okay at the moment.
> 
> So I'm still using my H-220 X2. It would be extra bad if it started leaking though because in this M-ITX build, my mobo is laying flat and the H-220 X2 is directly above it. I can't just take it out. I really need to use this PC, and have no other heatsinks on hand.


You don't have the stock cooler floating around? and actually the unit itself may be fine but I would be draining the loop, disassembling and assessing the CPU block for warp and gunk and replacing that pump. If a block is allowed to exceed 65C it can potentially warp or crack (depending on the materials) as well as get gunked up from overheated coolant (depending on what you use), additionally the excess internal pressure can damage seals, fitting connections and hosing so I'd also make sure each seal and connection is still intact.

Where did the H-240 leak though? could simply be a loose fitting that needs a little extra turn with a claw wrench.


----------



## kril89

So i've had a H240-X for about 2 years now and judging by what i've seen its prob. time to clean the thing out and put some new fluid in it. Well I figured I might at well expand my loop and do some hard tubing while i'm at it. But since i'm finally getting around to expanding I went to look for the G1/4 adapter to run different fittings it seems to be out of stock everywhere. So am I out of luck here and need to go Full Custom or could I just upgrade the pump to the 50x which doesn't need the adapter.

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
This is what i'm talking about


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> Thanks. Missed the X2 qualifier. However, do you think the pump sitting on top of the CPU is the primary reason the original H220 was notorious for stalling?


Oh definitely, the first ones used a Laing DDC which ran hot as it is. This is one of the reasons why CLC pumps are low power/low heat to dissipate.


----------



## MadGoat

My H220 did the same thing for awhile. First the magnet of the impeller cracked and was causing imbalance and at times would stop until I tapped it. Swiftech worked with me to send out a improved impeller (the one they now ues in the mcp50x) and that had been working for 2 years. Just the other day however the pump was not moving and after taking it apart saw that the magnet on this impeller cracked as well. This time it cracked on 2 sides (essentially in half) which allow the magnet to separate from the impeller spindle and magnetically stick to the pump winding walls. (thereby seizing the pump).

The housing and block are fine, just need a new impeller. Siftech however will not sell just an impeller, and since I am now out of warranty my only option was to purchase a mcp50x pump. I plan to attach the pump to the block to keep the full h220 design. This H220 has done well as it was one of the first to ship (was pre-ordered directly from swiftech) and has been in use daily since purchase. It had done well enough that I'm not too upset that I now need to by a $70 replacement part for it.

I would rather by a impeller and some new ceramic bearings instead for half as much, but I suppose that is not a business swiftech would like to entertain.

I have been in and out of my h220 in all possible ways, expanded, cleaned, flushed, replaced parts... it is built well. I'm sure your block and rest of your system is fine. You more than likely just need an impeller like myself. Your option at this point is to replace the pump with a mcp50x, flush, refill and be on your way.

Note to swiftech if you're reading: It would be great if you sold pump parts (no warranty). Us enthusiasts would love you that much more!!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh definitely, the first ones used a Laing DDC which ran hot as it is. This is one of the reasons why CLC pumps are low power/low heat to dissipate.


This is incorrect. The first H220 used the in house swiftech developed pump. The impeller was latter upgraded with extra air pass through for better purging and a much better magnet on the spindle, however the pump is pretty much the same design you see in the MCP50x today.

As such these pumps run MUCH cooler that Laing pumps in the mcp35 series and are not effected as much by heat.

Overall the MCP50x is a much better pump.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> This is incorrect. The first H220 used the in house swiftech developed pump. The impeller was latter upgraded with extra air pass through for better purging and a much better magnet on the spindle, however the pump is pretty much the same design you see in the MCP50x today.
> 
> As such these pumps run MUCH cooler that Laing pumps in the mcp35 series and are not effected as much by heat.
> 
> Overall the MCP50x is a much better pump.


I had one of the first H220s, they used a DDC and subsequent H220/H320 units then switched over to the MCP30 from what I believe.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had one of the first H220s, they used a DDC and subsequent H220/H320 units then switched over to the MCP30 from what I believe.


I would have to look back at my notes.....but I recall the H220 using the Swiftech designed pump from the start. It was a huge reason they were able to make the H220 competitively priced.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would have to look back at my notes.....but I recall the H220 using the Swiftech designed pump from the start. It was a huge reason they were able to make the H220 competitively priced.


Huh.. Perhaps I was mistaken after all. What caused that higher than average RMA rate then?


----------



## We of Us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What caused that higher than average RMA rate then?


Lot of noise from trapped air behind the impeller... one small air hole on impeller.

Burned power cables... cables soldered directly to the glued pcb.

Wecells remember those to be a major case at the first batches?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Huh.. Perhaps I was mistaken after all. What caused that higher than average RMA rate then?


I know they upped the minimum speed on the pump as it was causing issues, and made an impeller change. I don't recall exactly what the change was.


----------



## MadGoat

Slapped a MCP50x on my h220, and I'll tell ya what... this thing runs MUCH better than it ever has. Very impressed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Slapped a MCP50x on my h220, and I'll tell ya what... this thing runs MUCH better than it ever has. Very impressed.


Will the MCP50X fit/work on the H240-X?


----------



## Duke976

Yes it will fit. I have changed the pump of my H140X to the MCP50X. Temp on my cpu got a little better.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Slapped a MCP50x on my h220, and I'll tell ya what... this thing runs MUCH better than it ever has. Very impressed.


Will the MCP50X fit/work on the H240-X?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Yes it will fit. I have changed the pump of my H140X to the MCP50X. Temp on my cpu got a little better.


Awesome.
I may go for that instead of going for the 320 X2 Prestige!


----------



## dainfamous

How would the H140X work with an overclocked 2500k 4.5Ghz @1.35V? How often do these units need to be serviced?

TIA.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> How would the H140X work with an overclocked 2500k 4.5Ghz @1.35V? How often do these units need to be serviced?
> 
> TIA.


It would work very, very well.

Recommended maintenance is at 3 years, then yearly after. I've always simply done a drain and refill yearly.


----------



## FoamyV

Hi guys, i have a 3 year old 4790k and h220 aio cooler, recently i've noticed higher temps ( i think) and would like some advice.

Running a game of Overwatch at stock (4.4ghz 1.233v) the temps go as high as 78, prime 26.6 takes it close to 90 after 15 minutes. I've reseated the cooler and changed the paste twice (arctic mx-4), topped up with a minimum amount of distilled water and aired the system ( no sound coming from the pump aside from it running).

I have a 1080 running near it and the case is an Enthoo Evolv ATX. 4 vents in push pull and i've tried putting the radiator both horizontally and vertically.

Don't really know if the temps are normal or something wrong with the cooler, any help is much appreciated.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a 3 year old 4790k and h220 aio cooler, recently i've noticed higher temps ( i think) and would like some advice.
> 
> Running a game of Overwatch at stock (4.4ghz 1.233v) the temps go as high as 78, prime 26.6 takes it close to 90 after 15 minutes. I've reseated the cooler and changed the paste twice (arctic mx-4), topped up with a minimum amount of distilled water and aired the system ( no sound coming from the pump aside from it running).
> 
> I have a 1080 running near it and the case is an Enthoo Evolv ATX. 4 vents in push pull and i've tried putting the radiator both horizontally and vertically.
> 
> Don't really know if the temps are normal or something wrong with the cooler, any help is much appreciated.


Have you done the recommended 3 year maintenance? Drain, flush and refill?


----------



## FoamyV

Nope, didn't know there is a 3 year maintenance plan







any recommended tutorials on how to do that?


----------



## asus3571

if its that high trust me the pump went bad i will never buy another swiftech aio as they bragged about how the h220 pump was done in house and it was great knowing they weren't befor a yr even past they refused to replace the unit unless proof of purchase was provided why? it hadnt even been out a year at the point mine broke trust me if out of the blue your temps jump that high its their crappy pump failures


----------



## FoamyV

I personally was pretty content with the product, i mean it did it's job for 3 years and it's still doing it even though with higher temps. It was my first aio as well









LE: have an ek predator 360 in storage waiting for the ryzen build, how's that compared to the swiftech counterparts?


----------



## damomoly

Anyone have an AMD mount kit they want to give away for the older H220/Glacer? I actually have 95% of what I need but I am missing one of the 4 screws. Was going to mount on an AM3+ board when I noticed the missing screw.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Nope, didn't know there is a 3 year maintenance plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any recommended tutorials on how to do that?


The basics are here - 



 . The video is actually meant for GPU expansion, but it shows how to drain and fill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> if its that high trust me the pump went bad i will never buy another swiftech aio as they bragged about how the h220 pump was done in house and it was great knowing they weren't befor a yr even past they refused to replace the unit unless proof of purchase was provided why? it hadnt even been out a year at the point mine broke trust me if out of the blue your temps jump that high its their crappy pump failures


Seriously? That's not a pump failure. If the pump failed the temp would keep rising while even idling. Don't spread misinformation because you may have had a bad experience (can't be sure you actually did have since you obviously have no idea what a pump failure actually does).


----------



## asus3571

completely false the temp will only go so high as the the cpu will throttle down to keep temps managed so it doesn't catch fire happened to me with a 2700k temps went to over 80c and speed went to 800mhz go to any micro center and they will tell you swiftech royally screwed customers on that cooler and they still got h220x's on the shelves they cant sell a cpu is only allowed to get so hot period my temp stayed where it was and even with a non working cooler pc never shut down


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The basics are here -
> 
> 
> 
> . The video is actually meant for GPU expansion, but it shows how to drain and fill.


Thank you, can i rinse the cooler circuit with distilled water? also is the Thermaltake Opaque Coolant 1000 Blue good as a coolant replacement? I see it's the only one i could find around me at about 38$.

LE: found EC6 Coolant Clear (premix 1000ml) at half the price, which one would you guys recommend?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Thank you, can i rinse the cooler circuit with distilled water? also is the Thermaltake Opaque Coolant 1000 Blue good as a coolant replacement? I see it's the only one i could find around me at about 38$.
> 
> LE: found EC6 Coolant Clear (premix 1000ml) at half the price, which one would you guys recommend?


Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 coolant. If that is not available, clear EC6 is fine. Opaque fluids are not recommended, and can cause damage.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 coolant. If that is not available, clear EC6 is fine. Opaque fluids are not recommended, and can cause damage.


Managed to find Mayhems in the end, it'll get here in about 2 days. Hope the performance improves otherwise what should i be looking at? What are the telltale signs the pump is failing? Also, the radiator doesn't seem to be getting hot at all, just lukewarm, in either stress tests.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Managed to find Mayhems in the end, it'll get here in about 2 days. Hope the performance improves otherwise what should i be looking at? What are the telltale signs the pump is failing? Also, the radiator doesn't seem to be getting hot at all, just lukewarm, in either stress tests.


The radiator really shouldn't be getting hot, just warm.

The easiest way to tell if the pump is failing is by the rpm readout. Is it making any odd noises? Odd noises are usually the first indicator.


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The radiator really shouldn't be getting hot, just warm.
> 
> The easiest way to tell if the pump is failing is by the rpm readout. Is it making any odd noises? Odd noises are usually the first indicator.


Ok, stopped every fan aside from 2 on the radiator to hear clearly, the pump has an audible hum when cpu idle (similar to this one but a bit quieter 




During a realbench stress test the humming seems to go away and as soon as it gets into < 40 C territorythe noise stars again. Any ideas?

LE: temps go up to 90 during the realbench test ( ~10 minutes)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Ok, stopped every fan aside from 2 on the radiator to hear clearly, the pump has an audible hum when cpu idle (similar to this one but a bit quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> During a realbench stress test the humming seems to go away and as soon as it gets into < 40 C territorythe noise stars again. Any ideas?
> 
> LE: temps go up to 90 during the realbench test ( ~10 minutes)


What are you getting as far as rpm readings?


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What are you getting as far as rpm readings?


HWMonitor shows 1830-3100 rpm on the cpu fan reading. Is that what are you referring to?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> HWMonitor shows 1830-3100 rpm on the cpu fan reading. Is that what are you referring to?


It depends.....is your pump plugged into the CPU fan header?


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends.....is your pump plugged into the CPU fan header?


Yup


----------



## FoamyV

Mayhems got here and i made the change, nothing that much different unfortunately. 85C after a 15 minute run of realbench, better than before but not by much. The replace water did have some deposits and after changing the pump does seem a little bit quieter.

I noticed the "IN" hose doesn't get warm while the hose on the other side is pretty warm, does that mean anything? Any help is much appreciated.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Mayhems got here and i made the change, nothing that much different unfortunately. 85C after a 15 minute run of realbench, better than before but not by much. The replace water did have some deposits and after changing the pump does seem a little bit quieter.
> 
> I noticed the "IN" hose doesn't get warm while the hose on the other side is pretty warm, does that mean anything? Any help is much appreciated.


The input tube should be cooler than the out. The input brings liquid in from the rad where it has been cooled. It should not be a tremendous difference.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Mayhems got here and i made the change, nothing that much different unfortunately. 85C after a 15 minute run of realbench, better than before but not by much. The replace water did have some deposits and after changing the pump does seem a little bit quieter.
> 
> I noticed the "IN" hose doesn't get warm while the hose on the other side is pretty warm, does that mean anything? Any help is much appreciated.


have you disassembled the CPU-block/cooler? maybe the fins are blocked with gunk....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> completely false the temp will only go so high as the the cpu will throttle down to keep temps managed so it doesn't catch fire happened to me with a 2700k temps went to over 80c and speed went to 800mhz go to any micro center and they will tell you swiftech royally screwed customers on that cooler and they still got h220x's on the shelves they cant sell a cpu is only allowed to get so hot period my temp stayed where it was and even with a non working cooler pc never shut down


First, microcenter is populated by idiots trying to make a commission, that are frankly the biggest idiots I have ever met. Not all but the major majority.

Second, throttling will only help so much.

Third I am not saying you did not have a pump failure.

Nor that you did


----------



## vividshock

How do I remove the fill port screw without stripping this? I could absolutely not find anything that can help with this simple task...


----------



## FoamyV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> have you disassembled the CPU-block/cooler? maybe the fins are blocked with gunk....


Nope i haven't, is it a hard thing to do? what's the risk of having a leak afterwards? i could probably just order a noctua n15 if the risk is too high and have better temps


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> 
> 
> How do I remove the fill port screw without stripping this? I could absolutely not find anything that can help with this simple task...


fillport is in the end...to the right in your picture you turn it to the left it shouldnt be really tight its about the size of a dime


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoamyV*
> 
> Nope i haven't, is it a hard thing to do? what's the risk of having a leak afterwards? i could probably just order a noctua n15 if the risk is too high and have better temps


Its pretty easy. I had to do it three times and still no leaks. Just me careful when you are screwing back the screws. It hasnt happen to me but heard when trying to tighten it back to tight you could strip the threads..


----------



## vividshock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> fillport is in the end...to the right in your picture you turn it to the left it shouldnt be really tight its about the size of a dime


It's super tight. Found it I can use a dime to better grip it, but it's super tight.Am I missing something else?

Edit: It's so tight my go to power drill will not unscrew.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> It's super tight. Found it I can use a dime to better grip it, but it's super tight.Am I missing something else?
> 
> Edit: It's so tight my go to power drill will not unscrew.


That is odd. I do remember my first time unscrewing the fill port it was a little tight but I used a large screw driver and was able to get it off. I can now usually unscrew it with either my fingers or using a coin, but I usually only hand tighten it back on.


----------



## Duke976

Quote: Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo* 

Will the MCP50X fit/work on the H240-X?
Awesome.
I may go for that instead of going for the 320 X2 Prestige!



Also replaced the default Swiftech waterblock with Watercool Heatkiller IV Acetal for better cooling.


Full Body shot.


This set-up is being powered by the H140x via MCP50X.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Here is the picture of when I replaced the default pump of the H140x
> 
> 
> 
> Also replaced the default Swiftech waterblock with Watercool Heatkiller IV Acetal for better cooling.
> 
> 
> Full Body shot.
> 
> 
> This set-up is being powered by the H140x via MCP50X.


mcp50x suprised me most pumps ive had its easy to keep adding to the reservoir and keep filling without cycling a second after but the 50 at full tilt emptys my res (100mm) in about .75 seconds....or faster i couldn't get a continuous pour...also trying to bleed the loop with a 220x and MCP50X was still a pain getting all the air out of the h220x wasnt fun but the 50x pump prevents you from having to deal with the "dead spots" where air collects and the mcp30 just can't dislodge them...the mcp50x smashes through


----------



## Duke976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> mcp50x suprised me most pumps ive had its easy to keep adding to the reservoir and keep filling without cycling a second after but the 50 at full tilt emptys my res (100mm) in about .75 seconds....or faster i couldn't get a continuous pour...also trying to bleed the loop with a 220x and MCP50X was still a pain getting all the air out of the h220x wasnt fun but the 50x pump prevents you from having to deal with the "dead spots" where air collects and the mcp30 just can't dislodge them...the mcp50x smashes through


Indeed i was surpise to see how powerful this small pump in action.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Here is the picture of when I replaced the default pump of the H140x
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also replaced the default Swiftech waterblock with Watercool Heatkiller IV Acetal for better cooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full Body shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This set-up is being powered by the H140x via MCP50X.


Thanks for the info and pics.
I also switched to the Heatkiller IV pro acetal. My temps did not improve at, they stayed the same they were with the swiftech apogee block I had that came with my H240x.
Nice looking system there!


----------



## Duke976

Thank you, i love the way the heatkiller look and the fact that i got it for $50 from amazon because of the delivery screw up made it even better


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duke976*
> 
> Thank you, i love the way the heatkiller look and the fact that i got it for $50 from amazon because of the delivery screw up made it even better


Yeah I agree, the Heatkiller IV does look much better. I have been thinking of adding a couple of LEDs (maybe UV, as I have a couple of those laying around).
Consequently you can get LED holes already drilled in if you order directly from watercool.
I got my heatkiller IV pro for like $65 I think from performance PCs....


----------



## Laucien

Could anyone tell me how long the stock tubing on the "H320-X2 Prestige" is? I want to fit one inside a Corsair Obsidian 750D. It supports radiators this size at the top but want to be sure the tubing will reach from the CPU socket all the way to the right side where the external drive bays should be (and where the reservoir/pump side will have to go).

Thanks!.


----------



## leifj75

Just wanted to share my setup 2 swifteck 360mm X20 with built in pumps,Apogee XL cpu block,Aquacomputer gpu water block and backplate


----------



## leifj75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leifj75*
> 
> Just wanted to share my setup 2 swifteck 360mm X20 with built in pumps,Apogee XL cpu block,Aquacomputer gpu water block and backplate


Oh yea slightly custom case


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leifj75*
> 
> Oh yea slightly custom case


yeah that thing IS fallout 4


----------



## III-Method-III

Apologies if this is the wrong thread. I coulnt find a swiftech x2 thread.

Im thinking of using watercooling for the first time and kind folks over on the cases forums have suggested Swiftech as a great compromise between a custom loop and a CLC AIO.

Im planning a new build in a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempwred Glass. Primarily because it will be easier (space wise) for a water cooling noob like me.

Im thinking of getting the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestiege.

Q1: im looking for a quiet solution, so assimed a bigger rad with the fans running slower would give me quieter cooling than say a 2x120mm or 2x140mm solution?

Q2: i plan initially to cool only my cpu (which will be an overclocked i7 6850). When im feeling brave i want to extend the loop to my gfx card (1080). Will the H320 X2 prestiege cool both?

Q3: i plan to have the rad in the roof of the luxe, pushing hot air out the top. Bad idea? Should it be at the front?

Cheers
Meth


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Apologies if this is the wrong thread. I coulnt find a swiftech x2 thread.
> 
> Im thinking of using watercooling for the first time and kind folks over on the cases forums have suggested Swiftech as a great compromise between a custom loop and a CLC AIO.
> 
> Im planning a new build in a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempwred Glass. Primarily because it will be easier (space wise) for a water cooling noob like me.
> 
> Im thinking of getting the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestiege.
> 
> Q1: im looking for a quiet solution, so assimed a bigger rad with the fans running slower would give me quieter cooling than say a 2x120mm or 2x140mm solution?
> 
> Q2: i plan initially to cool only my cpu (which will be an overclocked i7 6850). When im feeling brave i want to extend the loop to my gfx card (1080). Will the H320 X2 prestiege cool both?
> 
> Q3: i plan to have the rad in the roof of the luxe, pushing hot air out the top. Bad idea? Should it be at the front?
> 
> Cheers
> Meth


http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/18240

If you check that you will see he installed a H320 X2 Prestige in a Luxe, Luxe will support the 420mm version (3 X 140mm). You won't be able to use the optical drive bays though. The Prestige will easily handle a GPU added to the loop. The roof is the optimal place to install the Prestige, exhausting out the roof.


----------



## JRS017

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah that thing IS fallout 4


Haha


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Apologies if this is the wrong thread. I coulnt find a swiftech x2 thread.
> 
> Im thinking of using watercooling for the first time and kind folks over on the cases forums have suggested Swiftech as a great compromise between a custom loop and a CLC AIO.
> 
> Im planning a new build in a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempwred Glass. Primarily because it will be easier (space wise) for a water cooling noob like me.
> 
> Im thinking of getting the Swiftech H320 X2 Prestiege.
> 
> Q1: im looking for a quiet solution, so assimed a bigger rad with the fans running slower would give me quieter cooling than say a 2x120mm or 2x140mm solution?
> 
> Q2: i plan initially to cool only my cpu (which will be an overclocked i7 6850). When im feeling brave i want to extend the loop to my gfx card (1080). Will the H320 X2 prestiege cool both?
> 
> Q3: i plan to have the rad in the roof of the luxe, pushing hot air out the top. Bad idea? Should it be at the front?
> 
> Cheers
> Meth


You are in the right thread.









I've done a number of Luxe builds using Swiftech H series. While the H320-X2 will fit, the H240-X2 is a better choice for a number of reasons. The first being the way it fits, which is "perfectly". While you can cram the H320 in there, the reservoir sits in the hard drive bays and only a small portion of it is seen, while the H240-X2 looks like it was made to be in the space, fills the top and has the res nicely displayed (see the link provided by @rfarmer that shows an H240-X2 in a Luxe). Also, when you expand, the H240-X2 leaves you with the room to do a 140mm rad in the rear if you want to keep things simple, while it is more difficult with the H320-X2.

A1: While your thought is generally correct, you are missing a little vital information. A 2x140mm and 3x120mm rad are very similar in size (39,200 sq mm vs 43,200 sq mm) with only a 10% difference. Then you have the fact that two 140mm fans will move more air with less noise than comparable three 120mm fans. So, in most cases the H240-X2 is quieter at the same performance level.

A2: Either the H240-X2 or H320-X2 will be able to handle CPU+GPU with good (not great) temps, it would obviously benefit from an additional rad. The 1080 being very efficient is a big help here. In other words - yes, you can do it, and the temps will be good, but don't expect your CPU to be 50C in prolonged stress situations, and it will likely not be as quiet as you were hoping since the fans will need to spin faster to help dissipate the heat.

A3: Top exhaust always. You have an air cooled GPU and other components that need cool air. Mounting it in the front is going to leave you with no cool air intake. You need to think of the computer as a whole in terms of cooling, and not base your cooling around a single component while the others suffer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/18240
> 
> If you check that you will see he installed a H320 X2 Prestige in a Luxe, Luxe will support the 420mm version (3 X 140mm). You won't be able to use the optical drive bays though. The Prestige will easily handle a GPU added to the loop. The roof is the optimal place to install the Prestige, exhausting out the roof.


That is an H240-X2, not a 320-X2


----------



## os2wiz

I have not hear anything from Swiftech about availability of a AM4 socket compatible bracket for the soon-to-be-released AMD Ryzen motherboards. They will be hard launching the end of February. Has anyone heard anything?


----------



## III-Method-III

Thanks guys for the detailed answers. You have persuaded me to star with cooling my cpu on the H240 X2. Cheers.

Some more questions if i may?:

Q4: Given i want my case to have +ve air pressure (most seem to agree its beneficial) and the luxe build will have 3 x 140 exhausting, do i need more than the 2 x 140s at the front and the 140 at the bottom front to create +ve pressure?

Q5:if i do want to expand to gpu, you are recommending an extra 140 rad? Presumably i just need block, fan,rad more coolant? I can still run the whole loop off the swiftech pump?

Q6: can you recommend me a 140 rad, fan, tube, block etc in order to extend to gpu?

Q7: what would your flow order be?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Thanks guys for the detailed answers. You have persuaded me to star with cooling my cpu on the H240 X2. Cheers.
> 
> Some more questions if i may?:
> 
> Q4: Given i want my case to have +ve air pressure (most seem to agree its beneficial) and the luxe build will have 3 x 140 exhausting, do i need more than the 2 x 140s at the front and the 140 at the bottom front to create +ve pressure?
> 
> Q5:if i do want to expand to gpu, you are recommending an extra 140 rad? Presumably i just need block, fan,rad more coolant? I can still run the whole loop off the swiftech pump?
> 
> Q6: can you recommend me a 140 rad, fan, tube, block etc in order to extend to gpu?
> 
> Q7: what would your flow order be?


A4: There are a couple of ways to go about this. First. I am going to assume that you are adding a 140mm Phanteks F140SP or MP to the bottom and *not* changing out the stock fans to something that will perform the same at the very best. If that is the case, you can simply run the six fans off the hub in the case. The F140SP having higher CFM at like speeds than the Helix fans included with the Swiftech will give you naturally positive pressure, more when you factor in the resistance of the rad. You could also put your intake and exhaust on different curves that run in tandem with the intakes always spinning slightly faster than the exhaust. You can also fix the rear exhaust to a very low speed - I keep mine around 425 rpm in a similar scenario.

A5: Actually....I would recommend a 240mm on the bottom, more cooling and cleaner look. But either way, you will need rad, block, coolant and fittings. The Swiftech pump is more than capable of this. If you want a little bling and want to make filling and bleeding a lot easier, you can add a reservoir.

A6: With all of the new products coming out, that is a question better asked when you are ready to actually do it. Also, exactly which 1080 you have makes a difference when choosing a block. You need one specific to your card. But.....if you have a 1080 with a reference board, the Phanteks block plugs right into the Luxe's lighting circuit and looks pretty incredible. It also performs as well as an EK or Swiftech, but it is a touch more restrictive.

A7: Order makes no difference excepting that if you have an external res, it must feed the pump directly. Otherwise, your order is determined by the most orderly way to route the tubing. It makes no difference in performance.


----------



## III-Method-III

Sorry for not responding to your answers a few days ago Ciarlatano, ive been feeling pretty under the weather. Better now though. So thankyou again for your kind responses, which lead to a few more questions (clarifications really)

Q8: In some of your earlier replies you indicated that a H240 swiftech in the top will give reasonable temps when running both CPU and GPU
cooling from the same rad. Later you go on to suggest (presumably if I want better temps on both) I add another rad. You mentioned that the 1080 is pretty efficient and this gave me the impression that i would be able to perhaps cool the gpu on a H140 rad on the back of the luxe. However you went on to suggest a separate 240 in the bottom. Is that not overkill for the 1080 given you earlier said a 240 could cool both a CPU and GPU?

Q9: I understand your advice regards where to mount the top rad and which direction the fans should go. So if i _were_ to put another 240 in the floor of the case, and following your earlier advice, this one should also pull air in from the front intakes and exhaust it downwards through the case at the floor? (so as not to overheat my case?). Are downward firing rads a good plan? do i need to make sure there is a lot of space below the case? (i ask because i have deep carpets lol)

Q10: You mentioned i could (for bling) add a external res if i had two rads (1 swiftech and 1 homegrown) and it would greatly aid with draining and re-filling the system. i get that once installed maintenance will need to happen at some point. But if i added the external res, im now coming to question the value of the swiftech in the first place as im effectively making its res meaningless which means im just using its pump. Im not a huge fan of the swiftechs 'look'...so i guess im asking that if i may go for a 2 rad cooling solution, should i just go custom? given the 2nd rad etc will be build by me anyhow?

Yours still confused lol!
Meth


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *III-Method-III*
> 
> Sorry for not responding to your answers a few days ago Ciarlatano, ive been feeling pretty under the weather. Better now though. So thankyou again for your kind responses, which lead to a few more questions (clarifications really)
> 
> Q8: In some of your earlier replies you indicated that a H240 swiftech in the top will give reasonable temps when running both CPU and GPU
> cooling from the same rad. Later you go on to suggest (presumably if I want better temps on both) I add another rad. You mentioned that the 1080 is pretty efficient and this gave me the impression that i would be able to perhaps cool the gpu on a H140 rad on the back of the luxe. However you went on to suggest a separate 240 in the bottom. Is that not overkill for the 1080 given you earlier said a 240 could cool both a CPU and GPU?
> 
> Q9: I understand your advice regards where to mount the top rad and which direction the fans should go. So if i _were_ to put another 240 in the floor of the case, and following your earlier advice, this one should also pull air in from the front intakes and exhaust it downwards through the case at the floor? (so as not to overheat my case?). Are downward firing rads a good plan? do i need to make sure there is a lot of space below the case? (i ask because i have deep carpets lol)
> 
> Q10: You mentioned i could (for bling) add a external res if i had two rads (1 swiftech and 1 homegrown) and it would greatly aid with draining and re-filling the system. i get that once installed maintenance will need to happen at some point. But if i added the external res, im now coming to question the value of the swiftech in the first place as im effectively making its res meaningless which means im just using its pump. Im not a huge fan of the swiftechs 'look'...so i guess im asking that if i may go for a 2 rad cooling solution, should i just go custom? given the 2nd rad etc will be build by me anyhow?
> 
> Yours still confused lol!
> Meth


A8: A 140mm would be sufficient, but looks a little crowded when mounted in the rear. You could also do the 140mm on the floor just to keep things a little cleaner looking. It was really all about aesthetics.

A9: Since the GPU will be liquid cooled at that point, and you will be getting decent intake from the two 140mm in the front, you can run it as intake if you like.

A10: If you don't like the Swiftech look....then perhaps you should be looking at something like an XSPC kit right off the bat. The Photon D5 is one of the (if not absolutely THE) nicest looking pieces you can put into any build, their CPU block is excellent, rads are good and their pricing is right.


----------



## Sn4k3

Hi guys, I'm currently looking into buying an H240X2 and since I have read so much about defective units leaking out of the box and cheaply made pwm controllers I wanted to ask you whether this holds true even today or has quality been improved with newer units?


----------



## navit

I believe as with any product its hit and miss really. I myself have zero issues with mine from day one.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sn4k3*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm currently looking into buying an H240X2 and since I have read so much about defective units leaking out of the box and cheaply made pwm controllers I wanted to ask you whether this holds true even today or has quality been improved with newer units?


I have had over a dozen Swiftech units over the last few of years. Not a single problem with any of them, and all running to this day. The units leaking out of the box were all from a single mfg run, and the issue was addressed. A change was also made to the PWM splitter - which was never cheaply made.


----------



## asus3571

well a pump not doing anything is a classic sympton of pump failure and the mc i go to the guys know i know what im doing so they dont even try to upsell me


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus3571*
> 
> well a pump not doing anything is a classic sympton of pump failure and the mc i go to the guys know i know what im doing so they dont even try to upsell me


I have an H240X and it works great! No issues other than what I caused but were easily fixed. I even have a stripped screw on the res window and it still has not leaked, even after taking out the window several times for when I was checking to inside of the pump for residue.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have an H240X and it works great! No issues other than what I caused but were easily fixed. I even have a stripped screw on the res window and it still has not leaked, even after taking out the window several times for when I was checking to inside of the pump for residue.


my h220x is one of the first runs and is still going strong even though its first two years the pump was being bombarded worth too many rads and blocks it kept rocking and now it has the mcp50x helping it... ive replaced the window and one o ring which i myself lost while cleaning...no other issues and customer service wasnt the fastest but they did everything right


----------



## BeerCan

Just got a H220 X2 (not the premium one)
I am glad to say it was not leaking out of the box. I have it running by itself right now to test for leaks during operation. So far so good.

1 question I have. Should I just go ahead and change the fans now or are they ok? I have plenty of fans on hand from be quiet, noctua etc, that I have gathered over the years. So no extra expense really.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerCan*
> 
> Just got a H220 X2 (not the premium one)
> I am glad to say it was not leaking out of the box. I have it running by itself right now to test for leaks during operation. So far so good.
> 
> 1 question I have. Should I just go ahead and change the fans now or are they ok? I have plenty of fans on hand from be quiet, noctua etc, that I have gathered over the years. So no extra expense really.


That would depend on what fans you have on hand. if you have eLoops, GTs, F120MP or Vardars on hand, go for it. BQ's excepting the SW3 are terrible performers on rads, Noctuas are no improvement over the Helix but have a slightly nicer sound profile.


----------



## BeerCan

these are the be quiets I have silent wing 3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JMEBC3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the reply


----------



## BeerCan

Just wanted to report that this H220 X2 is working great. I have my 4790k at 4.9ghz and the cooler is keeping my cpu below 75 degrees at full load. Really it is high 60's low 70's with avx tasks 24/7


----------



## war4peace

Hello everyone.

I am not a Swiftech owner yet, hence my question here.
I have a 4690K at 4.2 GHz which kind of fails the silicon lottery (4.4 is the maximum frequency it would run at with no voltage increase but it crashes once in a blue moon) but that's not the main point. The main point is I'm a quiet PC obsessed person and I am hesitant about moving to watercooling because it might increase the noise with minimal benefit.

Currently my 4690K is cooled by a noctua NH-D14 witzh ULNA cables attached to both fans. With the fans at maximum, the CPU cooler noise is very low. At minimum the fans don't spin at all until the CPU goes over 50 degrees Celsius, which never happens while browsing or idle.

My PC is built in a Fractal Design Define S case, there are three vents at front: one is the fan the case came with and the other two fans are Scythe Gentle Typhoon 800 RPM. Same as above, while computer is idle the fans are stopped, while I am gaming or doing heavy load (rendering and video processing) the fans are set to max. The CPU temperature is around 70 degrees while processing video, so i'm considering switching to a Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige or its non-Prestige counterpart. What I would first like to do is replace the fans with the low-RPM Scythe Gentle Typhoons (yes I have three of them) but I don't think they would cool enough. I would mount the radiator to the front of the case (I have my reasons to not open the Modu-Vent holes at the top of the case just yet) - so my questions are:

1. Would the Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans manage to blow enough so that my CPU would stay at around 60 degrees while on load?
2. Would the tubing be long enough to accommodate the radiator mounted on the front of the case?
3. Should I save the 12 pounds or so by going for the non-Prestige version?
4. If I add another 140mm radiator at the back of the case and connect it to the Swiftech loop (with, of course, the addition of coolong liquid and tubing), also adding a low-RPM fan to it (that slot already has a default Define S fan there), would this make sense? And would the pump handle the extra load?
5. Finally: what's your experience with noise levels at minimum pump speed and fans off? Does it handle idle loads on your CPU? Or is fan spinning a must?

One thing to note is that I never turn off my PC - so it really has to be quiet when idle. Right now, the noisiest thing at idle are the AAM-enabled 5400 2 TB HDDs and the clicks of my mouse while browsing


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I am not a Swiftech owner yet, hence my question here.
> I have a 4690K at 4.2 GHz which kind of fails the silicon lottery (4.4 is the maximum frequency it would run at with no voltage increase but it crashes once in a blue moon) but that's not the main point. The main point is I'm a quiet PC obsessed person and I am hesitant about moving to watercooling because it might increase the noise with minimal benefit.


There are a couple of things here that will make me say "stick with air". First, if you are obsessed with quiet, this is not going to be the right move. Even at it's lowest speeds it is going to be louder than what you currently have at full speed. It is just the nature of the beast. You will have pump noise, added noise from air flowing through the rad, and the rad mounted to the exterior of the case with nothing to buffer the sound in any way.

Second, the 4690K has a TIM issue between the chip and the IHS. While coolers like the Swiftech can make a difference on CPUs with soldered IHS, the inefficiency of the TIM is the weak link and makes the difference minimal, especially at lower noise settings.

As much as I am a huge advocate of the Swiftechs, you just aren't going to get better than what you have for your given needs. I have done numerous tests and it always comes up the same - nothing beats air in terms of noise/performance on a CPU that uses TIM.


----------



## BeerCan

I am a big fan of quiet pc's myself. The swiftech is certainly louder than my cpu I have on air. It's not super loud but I for sure use my quiet computer for general computer use and the watercooled one is in another room


----------



## war4peace

Thank you.
FYI the rad is going to be inside the case. But I understand what you're saying


----------



## spddmn24

How would a swiftech h320 x2 compare to a corsair h110i on a delided 7700k at 5.2ghz ~1.4v? It pulls around 110 watts according to hwinfo. The reviews have both coolers right on top of each other, but I'm not sure how hard they are pushing their "overclocked" chips. I'm currently running my fans around 1300-1500rpm max to keep noise down, and if there was a substantial drop in temp with the swiftech it might be worth the switch. I know the swiftech is a vastly superior product, just not sure if its worth the $$ to switch.


----------



## mistax

So i currently have a H220-x and was looking to upgrade to Zen in addition to possibly a new graphics card. I was thinking if i should just expand the loop with an H140-x and then pick up a gpublock for the new setup or keep my H220-x for the current setup and build out a loop for the new build.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone,wow its been some time i havsnt been on this thread. So i am a 1st adopter of the previous and current H220x2 prestige,its been a year since i have had it now and has been cooling my 4790k @4.8 below 70c. I am currently awaiting my 7700k to arrive so i disassemble my pc to prepare for it and also clean my case, aaaaand i ran into 2 issues and need advice or help.
1: i detached the cooler itself but the bracket on the mobo will NOT come off and i need some kind of tiny pliers due to my mobo z87 asus deluxe,having capacitors right in the way of it and cannot proceed to remove them.
2: i have noticed the tubes. Are not crystal clear anymore, instead they are some kind of dirtyish looking color, should i take advantage on cleaning that? And if so how would i go about that?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone,wow its been some time i havsnt been on this thread. So i am a 1st adopter of the previous and current H220x2 prestige,its been a year since i have had it now and has been cooling my 4790k @4.8 below 70c. I am currently awaiting my 7700k to arrive so i disassemble my pc to prepare for it and also clean my case, aaaaand i ran into 2 issues and need advice or help.
> 1: i detached the cooler itself but the bracket on the mobo will NOT come off and i need some kind of tiny pliers due to my mobo z87 asus deluxe,having capacitors right in the way of it and cannot proceed to remove them.
> 2: i have noticed the tubes. Are not crystal clear anymore, instead they are some kind of dirtyish looking color, should i take advantage on cleaning that? And if so how would i go about that?


1. Not sure exactly what you mean the bracket will not come off. But before you do anything with pliers make sure you have all the screws removed and make sure any locking mechanisms are released. If it is simply stuck for whatever reason I would be very cautious and take it slowly. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
2. I would recommend replacing the tubes. The residue inside the tubing may be staining or it may be plasitcizer residue, neither of which can be cleaned off.
You can try running some of the primochill sysprep in your waterloop for a day or two to see if that helps but I seriously doubt it.
The steps I would recommend are:
a. Drain your waterloop and remover all the parts.
b. disassemble the loop including the waterblock and the res housing. Take everything apart you can without voiding the warranty.
c. Scrub everything clean using a solution of vinegar (for cleaning) and distilled water.
d. Replace old tubing with new tubing (many others can recomment various good tubing).
e. Reinstall the loop into your system and run primochill sysprep in it for at least a day but no more than 48hrs. It will run fine and perform well.
f. Drain your loop and flush it out with distilled water.
g. Reinstall the loop into your system and fill with your choice of appropriate fluid.

I hope this helps.

Bruce


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone,wow its been some time i havsnt been on this thread. So i am a 1st adopter of the previous and current H220x2 prestige,its been a year since i have had it now and has been cooling my 4790k @4.8 below 70c. I am currently awaiting my 7700k to arrive so i disassemble my pc to prepare for it and also clean my case, aaaaand i ran into 2 issues and need advice or help.
> 1: i detached the cooler itself but the bracket on the mobo will NOT come off and i need some kind of tiny pliers due to my mobo z87 asus deluxe,having capacitors right in the way of it and cannot proceed to remove them.
> 2: i have noticed the tubes. Are not crystal clear anymore, instead they are some kind of dirtyish looking color, should i take advantage on cleaning that? And if so how would i go about that?


The cpu bracket on the back of the motherboard has 2 sided tape on it so it will stay in place when you are installing the block. When I remove mine I used a small regular screwdriver to carefully pry it away.

If you have a Xacto knife you ought to be able to fit it between the bracket and the motherboard and cut the tape.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/18240
> 
> If you check that you will see he installed a H320 X2 Prestige in a Luxe, Luxe will support the 420mm version (3 X 140mm). You won't be able to use the optical drive bays though. The Prestige will easily handle a GPU added to the loop. The roof is the optimal place to install the Prestige, exhausting out the roof.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/18240
> 
> If you check that you will see he installed a H320 X2 Prestige in a Luxe, Luxe will support the 420mm version (3 X 140mm). You won't be able to use the optical drive bays though. The Prestige will easily handle a GPU added to the loop. The roof is the optimal place to install the Prestige, exhausting out the roof.


I presently have an aging Swiftech H320. I am upgrading to AMD Ryzen in a new case. My concern is that I have read several complaints of people who have bought the H320 x2 Prestige AIO kit of pump failures within a short time of purchase, sometimes with associated leaks. Is this happening more than it should. In my books a failure rate above one in a thousand is too much. Is there a quality control or design issue? I know there were plenty of pump issues in past models.


----------



## aylan1196

hi all I've been lurking in this thread ☝
For so long I own 320x2 on 6950x oc to 4.4 and 1.34 volt max temp mid 50s and another unit 220x2 I moded only for titan x pascal with Swiftech waterblock max temps mid 40s oc 200+ on core and 500+ on memory
Here are some pics





All this in phantek evolve case


----------



## Shaqalac

I'm building a new mini-ITX build with the Lian Li PC-O5S.

My initial plan was to acquire the Swiftech H220 X2 Prestige, however, after some research I found that the two components isn't a very good match.
Can anyone here confirm or prove it wrong? I really like they idea of having clear tubing to be showed off through the glass side panel on the case. This is also the reason why I'm hesitating to buy the H220 X as it _doesn't_ have clear tubing.


----------



## kevindd992002

Would the H220-X handle a 2600K CPU and a GTX 1080 in a single loop fairly well?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Would the H220-X handle a 2600K CPU and a GTX 1080 in a single loop fairly well?


Given that both have low heat output, it would probably do better than you would anticipate. The temps won't be awe inspiring, but the GPU will certainly be better than with factory air, provided you use a good quality block, of course.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Given that both have low heat output, it would probably do better than you would anticipate. The temps won't be awe inspiring, but the GPU will certainly be better than with factory air, provided you use a good quality block, of course.


Thanks. Would the GPU waterblocks (not full waterblock) from EK do any good though? I'm planning on not going with a full waterblock to "survive" few GPU generations.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. Would the GPU waterblocks (not full waterblock) from EK do any good though? I'm planning on not going with a full waterblock to "survive" few GPU generations.


I haven't used one, but I would expect they would work well. You will need to figure out some VRM cooling, however.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't used one, but I would expect they would work well. You will need to figure out some VRM cooling, however.


You're right. And even though I pick a board that already has a heatsink strapped onto the VRM area, I still need to find a way to direct air to that area. It seems to be more of a headache along the way. The thing is, if I go with a full waterblock I can only last one GPU generation which is a bummer.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> You're right. And even though I pick a board that already has a heatsink strapped onto the VRM area, I still need to find a way to direct air to that area. It seems to be more of a headache along the way. The thing is, if I go with a full waterblock I can only last one GPU generation which is a bummer.


https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V40R5697&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-HI+-+Fan+Controls-_-9SIA85V40R5697&gclid=CjwKEAiAoOvEBRDD25uyu9Lg9ycSJAD0cnByGKmAjx-DXEFQoZvherMwV6d_fqY0b45sIk9cUhKkXRoCcb7w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can go with something like that, which should do a good job of cooling the VRM.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey all, i have never had any other cooler other than these recent coolers,which are the h220x original and the the new prestige which is what i have now..but i have 2 questions:
1: why dont they EVER put these in benchmark comparisons?? Everytime i see comparisons on other sites and on youtube, these coolers are never mentioned.
2: be honest on this one, comparing this cooler to the thermaltake riing 240 rgb water 3.0, how does it compare to that? I hear pretty amazing things about that cooler


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey all, i have never had any other cooler other than these recent coolers,which are the h220x original and the the new prestige which is what i have now..but i have 2 questions:
> 1: why dont they EVER put these in benchmark comparisons?? Everytime i see comparisons on other sites and on youtube, these coolers are never mentioned.
> 2: be honest on this one, comparing this cooler to the thermaltake riing 240 rgb water 3.0, how does it compare to that? I hear pretty amazing things about that cooler


1. I used them in all applicable comparisons at HTL when the site was still up.

2. The Riing 240 is just another 240mm Asetek, it just has light up fans on it. Same as an H100i GTX, Kraken X52, etc. Nothing amazing about it.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey all, i have never had any other cooler other than these recent coolers,which are the h220x original and the the new prestige which is what i have now..but i have 2 questions:
> 1: why dont they EVER put these in benchmark comparisons?? Everytime i see comparisons on other sites and on youtube, these coolers are never mentioned.
> 2: be honest on this one, comparing this cooler to the thermaltake riing 240 rgb water 3.0, how does it compare to that? I hear pretty amazing things about that cooler


They arent on there much because swiftech doesnt really sponsor out that often.

It performs probably the best on the market, the tt water kit is good, but trust me. Its on a different level than those clcs


----------



## Shaqalac

I'm looking to buy a H220-X but I've done some additional research and now I'm doubting.

There seems to be quite a lot of people complaining about the quality and especially the noise level of the unit.
Are these just a few incidences or it there something about it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaqalac*
> 
> I'm looking to buy a H220-X but I've done some additional research and now I'm doubting.
> 
> There seems to be quite a lot of people complaining about the quality and especially the noise level of the unit.
> Are these just a few incidences or it there something about it?


There are probably one hundred happy users in this thread for every one with an issue. As far as noise, it is far quieter than any CLC on the market, and that is by a wide margin - both pump and necessary fan noise. And does so with far better performance to go along with all of the other advantages.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaqalac*
> 
> I'm looking to buy a H220-X but I've done some additional research and now I'm doubting.
> 
> There seems to be quite a lot of people complaining about the quality and especially the noise level of the unit.
> Are these just a few incidences or it there something about it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are probably one hundred happy users in this thread for every one with an issue. As far as noise, it is far quieter than any CLC on the market, and that is by a wide margin - both pump and necessary fan noise. And does so with far better performance to go along with all of the other advantages.


I totally agree. I have been using my H220-X for a year and a half now. I have had no problems with leaking, excessive pump noise or pump failure. I previously had a Corsair h100 and I can tell you it was incredibly louder than the Swiftech. The fan noise on the Swiftech is very reasonable and the pump is not excessively loud either.


----------



## Balsagna

Same, i had a corsair h100 as well, and my pc is dead silent.

However, you do have to be careful with the fan setup on some cases, such as mine. If it gets over 25% fan speed, its the loudest thing in the room. Its not really the kits fault, but i think the fan does have a draw back. This is only on the prestige fans, not thr non prestige version


----------



## Shaqalac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are probably one hundred happy users in this thread for every one with an issue. As far as noise, it is far quieter than any CLC on the market, and that is by a wide margin - both pump and necessary fan noise. And does so with far better performance to go along with all of the other advantages.


That is very reassuring to hear. Do you know how Swiftech handles warranty across the pond, without issues?
I'm planning to water cool the Lian Li PC-O5S and the H220 X seems like the optimal unit to do so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I totally agree. I have been using my H220-X for a year and a half now. I have had no problems with leaking, excessive pump noise or pump failure. I previously had a Corsair h100 and I can tell you it was incredibly louder than the Swiftech. The fan noise on the Swiftech is very reasonable and the pump is not excessively loud either.


Again, very assuring to hear. I was really concerned reading about people who had a lot of problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Same, i had a corsair h100 as well, and my pc is dead silent.
> 
> However, you do have to be careful with the fan setup on some cases, such as mine. If it gets over 25% fan speed, its the loudest thing in the room. Its not really the kits fault, but i think the fan does have a draw back. This is only on the prestige fans, not thr non prestige version


I'm planning on swapping out the fans with a pair of GentleTyphoons.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> They arent on there much because swiftech doesnt really sponsor out that often.
> 
> It performs probably the best on the market, the tt water kit is good, but trust me. Its on a different level than those clcs


Elaborate please. Are you referring to the thermaltake or these swiftechs on being on another level? So are u praising th tt cooler than?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Elaborate please. Are you referring to the thermaltake or these swiftechs on being on another level? So are u praising th tt cooler than?


No, he is saying that the Swiftech is on another level.

How can the Tt, which is just the off the shelf Asetek with LED fans, be on another level?


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Elaborate please. Are you referring to the thermaltake or these swiftechs on being on another level? So are u praising th tt cooler than?


The build quality of the Swiftech is way superior to that of an Asetek cooler such as the Water 3.0. The radiator isn't as solid, the construction isn't as solid etc.

The Swiftech cooler uses all of their own hardware. The pump, the radiator, the block etc. A swiftech all in one is as close to a full custom water loop as you can get. The only reason an actual water loop that's custom is better is because you're using different hardware. Swiftech might not have the VERY best block or the VERY best radiator, but all of its components are still solid and night and day difference than a CLC such as the one you mentioned.

I had a Water 3.0 that was put into my friend's system and I was like man I want to use that thing! Then I discovered the Swiftech H320X2 Prestige and noticed what I was missing.

Most of the reviews are biased that you see, they said the H100GTX performed better than a Swiftech H320, that was complete utter BS that I've ever heard.

However, this doesn't have its faults or things I'd nit-pick.. I'll only do that if you want me to ;P


----------



## igloo77055

Hey guys finally came across this after wanting to expand my Glacer 240L Aio.
I bought a deepcool captain 240 Aio in white, but felt like I was wasting my money for something that isn't really an upgrade, therefore I'll be returning it and expanding the Glacer instead.
There's a lot of info here to go through so searching has been a pain lol.

All I want to do is expand the loop to a bigger radiator I had this guy in mind to keep in line with my white build:
XSPC EX360 Radiator, 120mm x 3, Triple Fan, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015BOEM0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7i4OybS066M4K

Since I'm replacing the rad I guess I'll also need a reservoir too?
I had this guy in mind for that:
XSPC Ion Reservoir, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEECH0X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gv4OybD5GKP0K

Apart from tubing and fittings is there anything else I need?
Also I'm running Thermaltake riing fans with the white LEDs but I feel they aren't performing the best, does anyone have any other white alternatives?

Thanks!


----------



## jcoleman4

http://www.swiftech.com/GTZ-UHD-1156-BP.aspx

Will this work with my H240X 1151 chipset Skylake CPU?


----------



## jcoleman4

Any tutorials or videos on how to drain the H240x?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/GTZ-UHD-1156-BP.aspx
> 
> Will this work with my H240X 1151 chipset Skylake CPU?


No. Are you just missing the backplate? Also.....contacting Swiftech customer service would provide you with definitive answers rather than asking people here to speculate what will work.


----------



## jcoleman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No. Are you just missing the backplate? Also.....contacting Swiftech customer service would provide you with definitive answers rather than asking people here to speculate what will work.


Thanks I'll contact them!


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/GTZ-UHD-1156-BP.aspx
> 
> Will this work with my H240X 1151 chipset Skylake CPU?


All the 115* sockets use the same mounting pattern. 1150, 1151, 1155 and 1156. I am using a Swiftech Apogee Drive II that says 1155/1156 and it works just fine on my 1151 motherboard.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> Any tutorials or videos on how to drain the H240x?


Draining is easy, pull the plug and tilt it over, jiggle it around, you're done.

Filling, on the other-hand, takes some patience.

Tools that can help
- short fill tube that you can screw into the fill/drain port
- a small funnel
- a syringe (minus the needle)
- an external psu

It takes a little more than a cup of liquid, not much.

Start with the funnel (or filltube or funnel in the filltube), full the res with liquid and move the unit around to try to get the water to go thru the loop. The filltube likes to backup, so go slow. You'll have to move it around, and cycle the pump on/off briefly to get the liquid to flow out of the res and thru the loop. When there's more room in the res, fill some more. Keep doing this until is mostly full. That doesn't take all that long.

Getting all the air out is where the patience is needed. Air in the loop will cause noise, either gurgling or noise from air getting trapped around the impeller. This is where the syringe comes into play. You can run it with the pump on and drip liquid in slowly as air bubbles come up and out. Air eventually will get trapped in the res. It can be tricky to encourage the air in there to exit via the open drain/fill port. Turning on/off the pump helps. It takes time for all of the air to gather in the res and come out. As you get closer to being done, you're adding less and less water and waiting longer and longer for more air to bubble up and out.

it's not hard, but it is time consuming and sometimes frustrating because the fillport is not directly above the res, it's not a straight shot you can expect to spill some water... you'll see.


----------



## michael-ocn

dup, ooops


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Draining is easy, pull the plug and tilt it over, jiggle it around, you're done.
> 
> Filling, on the other-hand, takes some patience.
> 
> Tools that can help
> - short fill tube that you can screw into the fill/drain port
> - a small funnel
> - a syringe (minus the needle)
> - an external psu
> 
> It takes a little more than a cup of liquid, not much.
> 
> Start with the funnel (or filltube or funnel in the filltube), full the res with liquid and move the unit around to try to get the water to go thru the loop. The filltube likes to backup, so go slow. You'll have to move it around, and cycle the pump on/off briefly to get the liquid to flow out of the res and thru the loop. When there's more room in the res, fill some more. Keep doing this until is mostly full. That doesn't take all that long.
> 
> Getting all the air out is where the patience is needed. Air in the loop will cause noise, either gurgling or noise from air getting trapped around the impeller. This is where the syringe comes into play. You can run it with the pump on and drip liquid in slowly as air bubbles come up and out. Air eventually will get trapped in the res. It can be tricky to encourage the air in there to exit via the open drain/fill port. Turning on/off the pump helps. It takes time for all of the air to gather in the res and come out. As you get closer to being done, you're adding less and less water and waiting longer and longer for more air to bubble up and out.
> 
> it's not hard, but it is time consuming and sometimes frustrating because the fillport is not directly above the res, it's not a straight shot you can expect to spill some water... you'll see.


Should there be any air gap for exspansion when filling or cram as must as I can in ?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Should there be any air gap for exspansion when filling or cram as must as I can in ?


I put is as much as I can, you won't be able to fill it completely, and that will be enough for expansion. The reason to fill it as muchas you can is to avoid noise. You'll see when you get into it.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I put is as much as I can, you won't be able to fill it completely, and that will be enough for expansion. The reason to fill it as muchas you can is to avoid noise. You'll see when you get into it.


Thank you need to do this while I have no kids to interrupt me


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Thank you need to do this while I have no kids to interrupt me


You can stop working on it and come back to it. Here's another verbal description of the process I got from swiftech support. I had forgotten something important, don't let the pump run dry when cycling it on/off.
Quote:


> Start the pump up without having it connected to the motherboard. Do a Google search for how to jump start a PC power supply to find out how to do this. Then just connect your pump to a SATA power connector after you've added as much coolant as you can. You'll need to quickly shut it off though once all the coolant drains down into the loop and empties the reservoir. You don't want to have the pump suck on air.
> 
> Continue doing this until you can no longer get any coolant into it without it spilling out of the tubing that you have on the fill-port. At this point you'll need to start gently rocking the unit while the pump is running to get all of the air to move into the tubing on the fill-port. Continue adding coolant until you no longer have air going into the tubing. This will indicate that you've finished the bleeding process.
> 
> At this point take some paper towels and place them around the fitting in the fill-port. Then begin unscrewing this fitting. The paper towels will soak up the remaining coolant and then you just put the cap back on and stand your case back up. At this point you'll complete the rest of your installation.


I found it a lot more finicky to really top it off compared to that description which is why I use the syringe at the end. Also while it may be possible to do this with the cooler in the case, I'd strongly recommend taking it out to do this.


----------



## mistax

Is swiftech selling any AM4 bracket? Goona keep my H220x and transition it over to a new ryzen build. Additionally is it worth expanding this loop? Currently have this and a Hydro Titan X


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Is swiftech selling any AM4 bracket? Goona keep my H220x and transition it over to a new ryzen build. Additionally is it worth expanding this loop? Currently have this and a Hydro Titan X


I emailed them about a week ago to see if they had plans for an AM4 bracket for the Apogee Drive II. They responded that they were releasing one in about a month, I would guess the same time frame on the H220-X.


----------



## kevindd992002

I'm a noob in watercooling and I figured that I want to expand my H220-X to include my GPU in the loop. What components do I need to buy?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm a noob in watercooling and I figured that I want to expand my H220-X to include my GPU in the loop. What components do I need to buy?


Not a lot. You need the GPU block, some additional tubing (the included tubing is 3/8 X 5/8) and some 3/8 fittings for the GPU block. If you don't use compression fittings you will need some clamps for the tubing.

Additionally you could also add another radiator. I see you have a 2600K and a GTX 1070, I can tell you that the 1070's run very cool under water and I am cooling an OCed 6600K and a GTX 1070 with a single 240mm radiator and the temps are very good. Would really depend on now high the OC, if any, is on your 2600K.

Depending on how long you have been using your H220-X you might want to go ahead and flush it and get some new fluid. I use Mayhems X1 clear concentrate in mine and have had really good results.


----------



## EarlZ

Is the H220X compatible with the CPU sockets for AMD's Ryzen cpu ?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is the H220X compatible with the CPU sockets for AMD's Ryzen cpu ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I emailed them about a week ago to see if they had plans for an AM4 bracket for the Apogee Drive II. They responded that they were releasing one in about a month, I would guess the same time frame on the H220-X.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not a lot. You need the GPU block, some additional tubing (the included tubing is 3/8 X 5/8) and some 3/8 fittings for the GPU block. If you don't use compression fittings you will need some clamps for the tubing.
> 
> Additionally you could also add another radiator. I see you have a 2600K and a GTX 1070, I can tell you that the 1070's run very cool under water and I am cooling an OCed 6600K and a GTX 1070 with a single 240mm radiator and the temps are very good. Would really depend on now high the OC, if any, is on your 2600K.
> 
> Depending on how long you have been using your H220-X you might want to go ahead and flush it and get some new fluid. I use Mayhems X1 clear concentrate in mine and have had really good results.


That's what I thought. Can I use compression fittings only on the GPU block and keep the stock barb fitting on the CPU block and pump/reservoir?

I don't have any more room in my case for an additional radiator but would it help a lot in temps just for a 4.5GHz OC'd 2600K and a GTX 1080 (I'll be upgrading my 1070 soon)?

Yeah, for sure I will flush and refill the loop with new fluid along the process. Does it really have to be a liquid mixture there? I though distilled water plus some anti-corrosive "stuff" is enough? Or is this question one of those forever ongoing "debates"?

How will I know how long of a tubing should I be getting? Also what does this do?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's what I thought. Can I use compression fittings only on the GPU block and keep the stock barb fitting on the CPU block and pump/reservoir?
> 
> I don't have any more room in my case for an additional radiator but would it help a lot in temps just for a 4.5GHz OC'd 2600K and a GTX 1080 (I'll be upgrading my 1070 soon)?
> 
> Yeah, for sure I will flush and refill the loop with new fluid along the process. Does it really have to be a liquid mixture there? I though distilled water plus some anti-corrosive "stuff" is enough? Or is this question one of those forever ongoing "debates"?
> 
> How will I know how long of a tubing should I be getting? Also what does this do?


The Swiftech fitting is if you want to add compression fittings to the H220-X itself, all the fittings are G1/4 except for the pump outlet and you need that adapter, you can keep the original fittings on the H220-X.

The different liquids are an ongoing debate. I tried distilled water with just PT Nuke and got algae growth. Others it seems to work fine with. Many have recommended the Mayhems X1 and I agree with them.

If you can't add an additional radiator go with a H240-X if your case will support a 280mm radiator. If not the H220-X will work well, but you won't have super low temps.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ...
> Yeah, for sure I will flush and refill the loop with new fluid along the process. Does it really have to be a liquid mixture there? I though distilled water plus some anti-corrosive "stuff" is enough? Or is this question one of those forever ongoing "debates"?
> ...


Isn't that what something like mayhems x1 is, some "stuff" with biocidal and anti-corrosive properties that you add to distilled water? I guess if you live someplace where you can't purchase something like that, you'd have to look to alternatives. But if you can pick up a bottle of concentrate, seems like the obvious answer.


----------



## Dry Bonez

i just finished swappin my rig since i upgraded to a gigabyte z270 gaming 7 mobo with a 7700k cpu, and i noticed now that my H220X2 prestige makes some weird continuous clicking sound. I came to the conclusion because i was trying to pinpoint where the clicking is coming from until i go into the bios and reduce the speed to "silent" and it goes away. But when i set it to auto or full speed it makes the sound. Any ideas what this can be? Also have another concern, maybe i would post this in the mobo section, but this mobo has no fan controller software. unlike my old asus where i controlled the fan speed of my cooler from there. How can i go about this? I should mention my case fans are controlled via my bitfenix fan controller


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i just finished swappin my rig since i upgraded to a gigabyte z270 gaming 7 mobo with a 7700k cpu, and i noticed now that my H220X2 prestige makes some weird continuous clicking sound. I came to the conclusion because i was trying to pinpoint where the clicking is coming from until i go into the bios and reduce the speed to "silent" and it goes away. But when i set it to auto or full speed it makes the sound. Any ideas what this can be? Also have another concern, maybe i would post this in the mobo section, but this mobo has no fan controller software. unlike my old asus where i controlled the fan speed of my cooler from there. How can i go about this? I should mention my case fans are controlled via my bitfenix fan controller


The clicking could be caused by air in the system, if there is any, you can try to bleed it out and see if that resolves the clicking noises.

Looks like your mobo has quite a lot of fan headers.

1 x CPU fan header
1 x water cooling CPU fan header
4 x system fan headers
2 x system fan/water cooling pump headers

And the BIOS has comprehensive fan control functions, see the "Smart Fan" section?

http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z270x-gaming7_e.pdf

> How can i go about this?

Plug in custom fan curves as you see fit in the bios.


----------



## RnRollie

Clicking also tends to come from PWM moters (like fans & pumps) that are just not sitting in the right spot. A bit like an inversed "sweet spot".
Just like some fans emit a woo-woo-woo sound at certain RPM

For a lot of motors this clicking occurs "near stall speed" when they get only a 30% speed PWM instruction. The solution is almost always to change the "minimum speed " 10 points up, thus 40% iso 30%
But if you have very fine control, you can increment "min speed" with 5 or maybe even 2 points.. for example set to 33%

Of course you still have to check for airlocks in the pump/loop and if possible separate the fans & pumps controls


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The clicking could be caused by air in the system, if there is any, you can try to bleed it out and see if that resolves the clicking noises.
> 
> Looks like your mobo has quite a lot of fan headers.
> 
> 1 x CPU fan header
> 1 x water cooling CPU fan header
> 4 x system fan headers
> 2 x system fan/water cooling pump headers
> 
> And the BIOS has comprehensive fan control functions, see the "Smart Fan" section?
> 
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z270x-gaming7_e.pdf
> 
> > How can i go about this?
> 
> Plug in custom fan curves as you see fit in the bios.


Then how is it possible that it goes away when i set the fans on "silent"? also, bleeding i have NEVER done and kinda nervous/scared to. i understand that removing the liquid is easy, but its a pain and very time consuming to put back together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Clicking also tends to come from PWM moters (like fans & pumps) that are just not sitting in the right spot. A bit like an inversed "sweet spot".
> Just like some fans emit a woo-woo-woo sound at certain RPM
> 
> For a lot of motors this clicking occurs "near stall speed" when they get only a 30% speed PWM instruction. The solution is almost always to change the "minimum speed " 10 points up, thus 40% iso 30%
> But if you have very fine control, you can increment "min speed" with 5 or maybe even 2 points.. for example set to 33%
> 
> Of course you still have to check for airlocks in the pump/loop and if possible separate the fans & pumps controls


Then how is it possible that it goes away when i set the fans on "silent"? That makes no sense, but then again im no expert. also, i have no clue what you said about motors and percentage lol. i apologise for not grasping it.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Then how is it possible that it goes away when i set the fans on "silent"? also, bleeding i have NEVER done and kinda nervous/scared to. i understand that removing the liquid is easy, but its a pain and very time consuming to put back together.
> Then how is it possible that it goes away when i set the fans on "silent"? That makes no sense, but then again im no expert. also, i have no clue what you said about motors and percentage lol. i apologise for not grasping it.


Bleeding just means "add a little water to replace the tiny bit that has evaporated over the years". In doing so, air is "bled" out, and a few drops of distilled water is put in to replace it. Not at all scary.

Do you know how fans resonate at particular frequencies and not others, a slight change in speed up or down can stop the resonance. Clicking is not resonating, but the affinity of pwm based clicking for a particular narrow speed band is similar to the frequency sensitivity of resonance. A small change either way maybe could affect the clicking. About percentage, the speed at which a pwm fan runs is usually controlled in terms of a percentage of the maximum speed its capable of. When you look in the bios, at the fan speed curves, 100 is max and 0 is off, 50% is halfway between.

Good luck


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The Swiftech fitting is if you want to add compression fittings to the H220-X itself, all the fittings are G1/4 except for the pump outlet and you need that adapter, you can keep the original fittings on the H220-X.
> 
> The different liquids are an ongoing debate. I tried distilled water with just PT Nuke and got algae growth. Others it seems to work fine with. Many have recommended the Mayhems X1 and I agree with them.
> 
> If you can't add an additional radiator go with a H240-X if your case will support a 280mm radiator. If not the H220-X will work well, but you won't have super low temps.


Ok. Will I be able to get tubings that are similar to the H220-X (the later version wherein the tubes were replaced from being glossy to a matter finish because of some issues that I couldn't remember)?

Can you give me a ballpark figure regarding the temp difference if I go with a H240-X compared to just using my current H220-X?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Isn't that what something like mayhems x1 is, some "stuff" with biocidal and anti-corrosive properties that you add to distilled water? I guess if you live someplace where you can't purchase something like that, you'd have to look to alternatives. But if you can pick up a bottle of concentrate, seems like the obvious answer.


Yeah, I live in the Philippines and I just searched for the Mayhems X1 and I don't see any. All I see are XSPC, Swiftech, and EK coolants.

Wait, are you saying that the Mayhems X1, being a concentrate, is diluted with distilled water to act as the main coolant/liquid for the whole loop? And wouldn't using distilled water plus some biocidal and anti-corrosive materials be a lot cheaper than using a concentrate? I hope these are valid questions for a noob like me.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. Will I be able to get tubings that are similar to the H220-X (the later version wherein the tubes were replaced from being glossy to a matter finish because of some issues that I couldn't remember)?
> 
> Can you give me a ballpark figure regarding the temp difference if I go with a H240-X compared to just using my current H220-X?
> Yeah, I live in the Philippines and I just searched for the Mayhems X1 and I don't see any. All I see are XSPC, Swiftech, and EK coolants.
> 
> Wait, are you saying that the Mayhems X1, being a concentrate, is diluted with distilled water to act as the main coolant/liquid for the whole loop? And wouldn't using distilled water plus some biocidal and anti-corrosive materials be a lot cheaper than using a concentrate? I hope these are valid questions for a noob like me.


XSPC and EK concentrates are pretty much the same as Mayhems, the swiftech coolant is probably their green hydrx concentrate which is a little different kind of formulation, older, i think it's more akin to automotive coolants than the others (personally i'd rather clear than green).

People like the concentrates because it keeps the shipping costs down. You get a small bottle (100ml) and then mix it with 1L of distilled water.

> some biocidal and anti-corrosive materials

The question is what materials and how much per liter of water and where do I get them? That's why I just get a concentrate, makes it easy for me. I can get something like this delivered to my home for about $10 which isn't too expensive. If its cost prohibitive for you, i guess you should look at alternatives (but i don't know what basic additives to add and such).

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-concentrate-100ml
http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/ecx-ultra-concentrate-coolant-clear1
http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM.aspx


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> XSPC and EK concentrates are pretty much the same as Mayhems, the swiftech coolant is probably their green hydrx concentrate which is a little different kind of formulation, older, i think it's more akin to automotive coolants than the others (personally i'd rather clear than green).
> 
> People like the concentrates because it keeps the shipping costs down. You get a small bottle (100ml) and then mix it with 1L of distilled water.
> 
> > some biocidal and anti-corrosive materials
> 
> The question is what materials and how much per liter of water and where do I get them? That's why I just get a concentrate, makes it easy for me. I can get something like this delivered to my home for about $10 which isn't too expensive. If its cost prohibitive for you, i guess you should look at alternatives (but i don't know what basic additives to add and such).
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-concentrate-100ml
> http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/ecx-ultra-concentrate-coolant-clear1
> http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM.aspx


Well said. I get it for the same reason, cheaper to just get the single bottle.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> You can stop working on it and come back to it. Here's another verbal description of the process I got from swiftech support. I had forgotten something important, don't let the pump run dry when cycling it on/off.
> 
> I found it a lot more finicky to really top it off compared to that description which is why I use the syringe at the end. Also while it may be possible to do this with the cooler in the case, I'd strongly recommend taking it out to do this.


I got it done was only a top up but still painful . Took about 60-70 ml couldn't get any more in, still had a small air bubble in but nothing I did would bring it to the fill port


----------



## bluedevil

So I was looking at planning my loop for Project: BLUEDEVIL and I noticed these....just scratches? or possible cracks?

https://ibb.co/f4hawF

https://ibb.co/dAG2bF


----------



## paskowitz

Looks likes scratches.

Out of curiosity what would a second hand H240X with just the rad and pump be worth (no fans or Apogee)?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So I was looking at planning my loop for Project: BLUEDEVIL and I noticed these....just scratches? or possible cracks?
> 
> https://ibb.co/f4hawF
> 
> https://ibb.co/dAG2bF


They appear to have no depth and are just scratches. But it is really hard to conclude from a photo.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They appear to have no depth and are just scratches. But it is really hard to conclude from a photo.


Might be, I took it apart and put some distilled water in.

https://ibb.co/eiFjqa
https://ibb.co/irwqVa


----------



## bluedevil

It is cracked.....dang....


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> XSPC and EK concentrates are pretty much the same as Mayhems, the swiftech coolant is probably their green hydrx concentrate which is a little different kind of formulation, older, i think it's more akin to automotive coolants than the others (personally i'd rather clear than green).
> 
> People like the concentrates because it keeps the shipping costs down. You get a small bottle (100ml) and then mix it with 1L of distilled water.
> 
> > some biocidal and anti-corrosive materials
> 
> The question is what materials and how much per liter of water and where do I get them? That's why I just get a concentrate, makes it easy for me. I can get something like this delivered to my home for about $10 which isn't too expensive. If its cost prohibitive for you, i guess you should look at alternatives (but i don't know what basic additives to add and such).
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-concentrate-100ml
> http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/ecx-ultra-concentrate-coolant-clear1
> http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM.aspx


Got it. Regarding compression fittings, are there any recommendations on these? Or would going genrally all EK be a good decision?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. Regarding compression fittings, are there any recommendations on these? Or would going genrally all EK be a good decision?


sry, i can't help you with that, my experience with water cooling is pretty limited, i have a swiftech aio that i've maintained, i've never built a custom loop myself


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. Regarding compression fittings, are there any recommendations on these? Or would going genrally all EK be a good decision?


Personally......I really dislike the EK fittings when compared to Bitspower, Swiftech or XSPC. They are good looking, but they come with o-rings that are smaller than typical, and have a tendency of backing out, the compression ring is cut slightly larger to accomodate their ZMT tubing which makes the hold on standard tubing not as secure and they have no slot cut in to tighten the fitting. I was really disappointed when I bought a couple of them.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Personally......I really dislike the EK fittings when compared to Bitspower, Swiftech or XSPC. They are good looking, but they come with o-rings that are smaller than typical, and have a tendency of backing out, the compression ring is cut slightly larger to accomodate their ZMT tubing which makes the hold on standard tubing not as secure and they have no slot cut in to tighten the fitting. I was really disappointed when I bought a couple of them.


Thanks for the heads up. But from what I'm reading, they make good GPU waterblocks, right?

Oh and how about tubing, which brand is preferred? And when expanding my AIO, should I be replacing the stock tubing as well to make everything as uniform as possible?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. But from what I'm reading, they make good GPU waterblocks, right?
> 
> Oh and how about tubing, which brand is preferred? And when expanding my AIO, should I be replacing the stock tubing as well to make everything as uniform as possible?


If you want flat black tubing, I think EK-ZMT tubing could be a good pick.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. But from what I'm reading, they make good GPU waterblocks, right?
> 
> Oh and how about tubing, which brand is preferred? And when expanding my AIO, should I be replacing the stock tubing as well to make everything as uniform as possible?


Yes, they do. EK makes excellent blocks. It is what they are known for, and what the company has always done. But, that doesn't make their fittings good.









As far as tubing, Primochill Advanced LRT is a popular and solid choice. I have also used PPC's Dreamflex in many builds with great results, and actually prefer it. For no maintenance, Tygon A-60-G (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864) is similar to EK ZMT, but the Tygon is sized better and works easily with compression fittings. ZMT is slightly oversized and can be a PITA to work with.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, they do. EK makes excellent blocks. It is what they are known for, and what the company has always done. But, that doesn't make their fittings good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as tubing, Primochill Advanced LRT is a popular and solid choice. I have also used PPC's Dreamflex in many builds with great results, and actually prefer it. For no maintenance, Tygon A-60-G (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864) is similar to EK ZMT, but the Tygon is sized better and works easily with compression fittings. ZMT is slightly oversized and can be a PITA to work with.


Between the Primochill, PPC, and Tygon, do you prefer the PPC most? How does XSPC tubes fair among the rest?

Is it generally recommended to use the same tubing along the whole loop? Or can I re-use the stock tubes of the H220X and just add more?

Are there compression fittings that can swivels like the stock barbed fittings of the H220X?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Between the Primochill, PPC, and Tygon, do you prefer the PPC most? How does XSPC tubes fair among the rest?
> 
> Is it generally recommended to use the same tubing along the whole loop? Or can I re-use the stock tubes of the H220X and just add more?
> 
> Are there compression fittings that can swivels like the stock barbed fittings of the H220X?


You can either get compression fittings with built in angled adapters, or separate fittings and adapters. I am using Swiftech compression fittings and 90 degree adapters in my build. They work well, look good and I haven't had any problems with leaks.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-dual-rotary-90-degree-compression-fitting-id-3-8-od-5-21.html
Compression fitting with built in adapter.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-x-lok-seal-compression-fitting-black-13123.html
Swiftech compression fitting.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-90-swivel-elbow-lok-seal-adapter-black.html
90 degree adapter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Between the Primochill, PPC, and Tygon, do you prefer the PPC most? How does XSPC tubes fair among the rest?
> 
> Is it generally recommended to use the same tubing along the whole loop? Or can I re-use the stock tubes of the H220X and just add more?
> 
> Are there compression fittings that can swivels like the stock barbed fittings of the H220X?


I like the Dreamflex as it makes tighter bends than the Primochill, and I have never run into any issues with plasticizer. However, I use the Tygon, but keep in mind that it is flat black, which matches my build but may not match yours.

Yes, use all new tubing.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I like the Dreamflex as it makes tighter bends than the Primochill, and I have never run into any issues with plasticizer. However, I use the Tygon, but keep in mind that it is flat black, which matches my build but may not match yours.
> 
> Yes, use all new tubing.


Does flat black mean matte? Well, the stock plasticizer-free tubings of my H200X are matte black.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Does flat black mean matte? Well, the stock plasticizer-free tubings of my H200X are matte black.


Yes, matte.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is the H220X compatible with the CPU sockets for AMD's Ryzen cpu ?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I emailed them about a week ago to see if they had plans for an AM4 bracket for the Apogee Drive II. They responded that they were releasing one in about a month, I would guess the same time frame on the H220-X.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So that means we purchase it separately ?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So that means we purchase it separately ?


I would guess future releases will have the included bracket, anyone with an existing unit would need to get it separately. There is a contact link on Swiftech's site, you might contact them and ask.


----------



## mistax

So how easy is it to clean out and refill the H220x? I've had it since Dec 2014 and I'm upgrading to ryzen next week so i would like to clean/refill if possible to remove the gurgling noise.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> So how easy is it to clean out and refill the H220x? I've had it since Dec 2014 and I'm upgrading to ryzen next week so i would like to clean/refill if possible to remove the gurgling noise.


You could probably just top it off to get rid of the gurgling. As for flushing and refilling, it's not hard but it can be a little time consuming.

There was a question about this in the thread not long ago, there's some discussion about how to do starting here...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/20340#post_25852059


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> You could probably just top it off to get rid of the gurgling. As for flushing and refilling, it's not hard but it can be a little time consuming.
> 
> There was a question about this in the thread not long ago, there's some discussion about how to do starting here...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-h220x-h240x-h140x-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/20340#post_25852059


How do you do the refilling process when you slap in a GPU waterblock in the loop? Do you do it while the H220-X and all waterblocks are installed already? Or do you do it outside the case?


----------



## michael-ocn

@kevindd992002 sorry i can't help u with that, i'm just an aio user so i don't know about expanding it into a custom loop.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do you do the refilling process when you slap in a GPU waterblock in the loop? Do you do it while the H220-X and all waterblocks are installed already? Or do you do it outside the case?


You can do it either way, but the fill port must be the highest point in the loop and facing up. So, if the H220-X is top mounted, the case will need to be laid on it's back (rear i/o down, front of case up) to fill. Or....you can add a fill line to the fill port that you can locate higher and cap off after filling. I have always added the line to the fill port as I find it easier than filling outside the case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can do it either way, but the fill port must be the highest point in the loop and facing up. So, if the H220-X is top mounted, the case will need to be laid on it's back (rear i/o down, front of case up) to fill. Or....you can add a fill line to the fill port that you can locate higher and cap off after filling. I have always added the line to the fill port as I find it easier than filling outside the case.


That's what I thought. I was about to refill my H220-X a few months back but was caught up with work so I didn't push through. Here's what I have now:



I already have the fill line, a funnel, and a wash bottle. How do you exactly use the fill line? Should I just screw it in the fill port and make sure that the tube is vertical while I'm filling it so that gravity will work? When do I stop filling?

Also, when you connect the pump to the PSU and disconnect the PSU from the motherboard, shouldn't you disconnect all 12V lines from all devices such as HDD's, fans, etc?


----------



## bvsbutthd101

I see swiftech is releasing the AM4 brackets for H220x and so on. Is there any plan to release anything for the OG H220?


----------



## jcoleman4

i have am H240X i was thinking of putting a silver coil in the reservoir to help fend off some of the germs and bacteria build up. Opinions?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> i have am H240X i was thinking of putting a silver coil in the reservoir to help fend off some of the germs and bacteria build up. Opinions?


Not needed with the coolant used, and the H240-X res is not a particularly good place for one with it's proximity to the pump.


----------



## jcoleman4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not needed with the coolant used, and the H240-X res is not a particularly good place for one with it's proximity to the pump.


outside of the HydrX coolant sold by swiftech what is a good alternative (that will prevent Bacteria/Algae buildup) and where to by?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcoleman4*
> 
> outside of the HydrX coolant sold by swiftech what is a good alternative (that will prevent Bacteria/Algae buildup) and where to by?


I've been using Mayhems XT-1 clear for over a year now. Works really well and my loop is still nice and clean.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-clear-coolant-concentrate-150ml.html

If you are in the US you can get it at Performance PC.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's what I thought. I was about to refill my H220-X a few months back but was caught up with work so I didn't push through. Here's what I have now:
> 
> 
> 
> I already have the fill line, a funnel, and a wash bottle. How do you exactly use the fill line? Should I just screw it in the fill port and make sure that the tube is vertical while I'm filling it so that gravity will work? When do I stop filling?
> 
> Also, when you connect the pump to the PSU and disconnect the PSU from the motherboard, shouldn't you disconnect all 12V lines from all devices such as HDD's, fans, etc?


@ciarlatano

In case you missed this?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I've been using Mayhems XT-1 clear for over a year now. Works really well and my loop is still nice and clean.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-clear-coolant-concentrate-150ml.html
> 
> If you are in the US you can get it at Performance PC.


@jcoleman4

Mayhems X1 might be a good option too,
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-100ml.html

I think XT1 is designed to handle really low temperatures without freezing, -50c, which i guess is useful in extreme cases but overkill in most. I think its a more toxic than the original X1. I'm not really sure which has better heat transfer characteristics?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. Regarding compression fittings, are there any recommendations on these? Or would going genrally all EK be a good decision?
> 
> 
> 
> Personally......I really dislike the EK fittings when compared to Bitspower, Swiftech or XSPC. They are good looking, but they come with o-rings that are smaller than typical, and have a tendency of backing out, the compression ring is cut slightly larger to accomodate their ZMT tubing which makes the hold on standard tubing not as secure and they have no slot cut in to tighten the fitting. I was really disappointed when I bought a couple of them.
Click to expand...

i have to state XSPC has really, really, really amazed me in terms of fittings.

esp from titan rig you can buy 4 packs ....... epicly cheap... i totally thought they would be crap for the price, but i am about to place my 3rd order....... amazing, simply amazing


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have to state XSPC has really, really, really amazed me in terms of fittings.
> 
> esp from titan rig you can buy 4 packs ....... epicly cheap... i totally thought they would be crap for the price, but i am about to place my 3rd order....... amazing, simply amazing


I feel exactly the same. I actually only grabbed my first ones because I needed a couple of fittings for a review of an XSPC block, and wanted consistency for the photos. But....they were really nice, and I have used them in a number of builds since.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have to state XSPC has really, really, really amazed me in terms of fittings.
> 
> esp from titan rig you can buy 4 packs ....... epicly cheap... i totally thought they would be crap for the price, but i am about to place my 3rd order....... amazing, simply amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I feel exactly the same. I actually only grabbed my first ones because I needed a couple of fittings for a review of an XSPC block, and wanted consistency for the photos. But....they were really nice, and I have used them in a number of builds since.


I also agree that the XPSC fittings are a great purchase. I did some searches, asked many questions and most people did not even have an opinion on them and in fact recommended the higher cost ones. I took a gamble anyway and got some XPSC compression fittings (both angled and straight) and I could not have been happier.


----------



## Scrimstar

Is the Swifttech 240/320 X2 Prestige still the best AIO for $200-250?

I might get Ryzen also, I heard Corsair's brackets were compatible, idk about others.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Is the Swifttech 240/320 X2 Prestige still the best AIO for $200-250?
> 
> I might get Ryzen also, I heard Corsair's brackets were compatible, idk about others.


Not sure if they are included with the kits yet but you can get AM4 brackets for the Swiftech now. http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-socket-am4-mounting-kit.html


----------



## jam71

Hello, these brackets are also compatible with swiftec H220?


----------



## thebanik

I have a h320 kit from a few years ago but no mounting. Is there Any compatible mounting available for normal Intel socket??


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebanik*
> 
> I have a h320 kit from a few years ago but no mounting. Is there Any compatible mounting available for normal Intel socket??


Yes, mounts are available from Swiftech.


----------



## thebanik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, mounts are available from Swiftech.


Not for this kit specifically, would you be kind enough to link as well, if you know if some other mount is compatible


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebanik*
> 
> Not for this kit specifically, would you be kind enough to link as well, if you know if some other mount is compatible


I just got a mount for an H220 from Swiftech. Customer service told you they are not available?


----------



## Krizmos

I recently found a used Galcer 240L V2 in almost new condition for a great price, but it is missing the power cabe that plugs into the pump. I've been searching but I have been unable to find a replacement cable. Anyone know where I might be able to get one? Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krizmos*
> 
> I recently found a used Galcer 240L V2 in almost new condition for a great price, but it is missing the power cabe that plugs into the pump. I've been searching but I have been unable to find a replacement cable. Anyone know where I might be able to get one? Thanks.


Call Swiftech customer service.


----------



## kevindd992002

Are there already instances that the stock coolant inside an H220X produced gunk inside the CPU block? If so, what does that entail?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are there already instances that the stock coolant inside an H220X produced gunk inside the CPU block? If so, what does that entail?


In the older H220 and H240 models with the shiny tubing there were plasticizer (aka gunk) issues. It was not caused by the coolant, but by the tubing.


----------



## kevindd992002

I see. So this did not affect the H220X? I remember the initial release of the H220X having shiny tubing and was changed to the matte version as well.

Oh and the Primoflex Advanced LRT does not have any plasticizers, do they?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. So this did not affect the H220X? I remember the initial release of the H220X having shiny tubing and was changed to the matte version as well.
> 
> Oh and the Primoflex Advanced LRT does not have any plasticizers, do they?


It affects the H220-X with shiny tubing, as well.

Advanced LRT has plasticizer, but the formula is less susceptible to leeching than most.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It affects the H220-X with shiny tubing, as well.
> 
> Advanced LRT has plasticizer, but the formula is less susceptible to leeching than most.


Ok. I have a friend that had the H240X with Matte tubing and when he disassembled the CPU block there was significant amount of algae there (not plasticizer). So what could've caused this then?

With that being said regarding the Primoflex, is it safe to say that it's better to stay away from it? Will all shiny tubings have plasticizers on them?

And by the way, what did you exactly mean by "no maintenance tubing", when you recommended the Tygon A-60-G to me?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. I have a friend that had the H240X with Matte tubing and when he disassembled the CPU block there was significant amount of algae there (not plasticizer). So what could've caused this then?
> 
> With that being said regarding the Primoflex, is it safe to say that it's better to stay away from it? Will all shiny tubings have plasticizers on them?
> 
> And by the way, what did you exactly mean by "no maintenance tubing", when you recommended the Tygon A-60-G to me?


Yes, all of the shiny tubing has plasticizer. The Tygon i recommended does not, so it will last you for years without needed to be replaced.


----------



## jase78

Do you guys think a 240x would be a good solution for 1080ti with ek block? Am considering just getting another 240x removing the cpu block adding to the 1080ti and mounting it in the front of my h440 case rather than adding the gpu to my other 240x that's at the top of the case .


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Do you guys think a 240x would be a good solution for 1080ti with ek block? Am considering just getting another 240x removing the cpu block adding to the 1080ti and mounting it in the front of my h440 case rather than adding the gpu to my other 240x that's at the top of the case .


You could. Personally, I would simply add the GPU and a second rad to your existing H240-X.


----------



## jase78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could. Personally, I would simply add the GPU and a second rad to your existing H240-X.


Can ypu recomend a rad /fans for the front of h440? Also what all else would I need ;just a couple fittings , some tubing and fluid?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Can ypu recomend a rad /fans for the front of h440? Also what all else would I need ;just a couple fittings , some tubing and fluid?


I'm partial to HWL rads as they deliver the best in terms of noise/performance and are incredibly well made. A 280 GTS would be my first choice, if it fits, if not a 240 GTS. As far as 140mm fans, eLoops, Phanteks F140MP, EK Vardars would be far and away my first choices.

You would also be better off using the H240-X in the front with pump side down, new rad up top and adding a reservoir to make filling and bleeding easier.

So, yes, tubing, fittings (two per added component) and fluid (Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1).


----------



## Despotes

How much better are the Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige and 320 X2 Prestige over my Swiftech H240-X? I've read a lot of user reviews indicating a problem with leakage. Is this an ongoing issue or has it been resolved? I'd like to upgrade, but not if QC has gone downhill.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> How much better are the Swiftech H240 X2 Prestige and 320 X2 Prestige over my Swiftech H240-X? I've read a lot of user reviews indicating a problem with leakage. Is this an ongoing issue or has it been resolved? I'd like to upgrade, but not if QC has gone downhill.


The H240 X2 and H320 X2 have similar performance.
240mm radiator has 14 x 28 =392 sq cm flow area
360mm radiator has 12 x 36 = 432 sq cm flow area.
The Prestige has better fans .. that and nicer looking compression fittings rather than barb fittings.

Please define "a lot of user reviews indicating a problem with leakage." My understanding is the 'leaking problems' were mostly with 1st releases and have been resolved, but of course there will be a problem every so often. It's water cooling and sometimes there are leaks. I don't have access to any data of issue numbers versus sales numbers for Swiftech, but my educated guess problems are much less than with other brands of AIOs and CLCs being sold.


----------



## Despotes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The H240 X2 and H320 X2 have similar performance.
> 240mm radiator has 14 x 28 =392 sq cm flow area
> 360mm radiator has 12 x 36 = 432 sq cm flow area.
> The Prestige has better fans .. that and nicer looking compression fittings rather than barb fittings.
> 
> Please define "a lot of user reviews indicating a problem with leakage." My understanding is the 'leaking problems' were mostly with 1st releases and have been resolved, but of course there will be a problem every so often. It's water cooling and sometimes there are leaks. I don't have access to any data of issue numbers versus sales numbers for Swiftech, but my educated guess problems are much less than with other brands of AIOs and CLCs being sold.


Leaky reviews

Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H240-X2-Prestige-Cooling/dp/B01AOFQW5M

Newegg https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108221


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Leaky reviews
> 
> Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H240-X2-Prestige-Cooling/dp/B01AOFQW5M
> 
> Newegg https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108221


You need to find some newer reviews. There are very few on both sites and they are old.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Despotes*
> 
> Leaky reviews
> 
> Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H240-X2-Prestige-Cooling/dp/B01AOFQW5M
> 
> Newegg https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108221


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You need to find some newer reviews. There are very few on both sites and they are old.


There are some newer reviews that complain about leaky units. But there are also plenty of people that have never had a problem with their units and for some reason there are not that many reviews that indicate so. I have an older 240-X and it is an awesome unit. When I purchased my H240-X I also found loads of bad reviews for one reason or another (primarily leaky units) but I did it any way primarily because I did my research and found many great personal opinions about the units. I believe that many of the leaky unit complaints are possibly from user error when installing or trying to mess with the unit, though there are a few who did have issues.

It is your decision on to purchase or not, but if you do and you get a good unit (more than likely) you will not be disappointed.

If you do get one please do these units a favor and post a review........

EDIT: Before you buy make sure the unit is one of the newer ones so you do not end up with one of the first run leaky models.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You need to find some newer reviews. There are very few on both sites and they are old.


Out of however many Amazon.com sold there are only 8 reviews, 5 of which are leaks and 2 are leaks in shipping box. I can understand your doubts, but you are basing your decision on only a very few reviews with no idea how many total sales there were .. A dissatisfied customer will write a complaint / review while satisfied customers usually write nothing, so results are disproportionate to actual number sold and in use. Newegg 'reviews' are same kind as Amazon .. no way of knowing what the actually represent. Too bad Amazon and Newegg don't include total number of units sold along with their reviews.









This thread is a good representation of Swidtech AIO users. Read through these 20421 posts and see how many are members who had a leak.


----------



## ciarlatano

Also, it may sound a little snarky, but how can you trust reviews on an open loop that are on Amazon or NewEgg? No one who does open loop buys from there. I would expect a lot of user error in those reviews, while the typical buyer from PPC would simply say "oh, that fitting loosened a little in shipping....let me give it an eighth of a turn".


----------



## Nitemare3219

Just noticed this thread... but maybe you guys should take a look at this. Pretty disappointing if my coolant is already bad.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1626136/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-after-1-year-coolant-going-bad


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitemare3219*
> 
> Just noticed this thread... but maybe you guys should take a look at this. Pretty disappointing if my coolant is already bad.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1626136/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-after-1-year-coolant-going-bad


That is pretty typical discoloration for any loop after a year, especially one that uses tubing with plasticizer. Swiftech had changed to plasticizer free tubing, but the kids want RGB LEDs and dye, so....... Your coolant isn't "bad". If you start seeing things floating in it, it needs to be flushed and refilled. Swiftech uses Mayhems coolant, so you can't say that you aren't getting a top notch coolant included.

Bottom line - it's liquid cooling. These things happen. If you aren't prepared to deal with what is normal for liquid cooling....then you shouldn't be liquid cooling.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.








Water cooling is not only much more expensive than air coolers. but also requires more time and effort to maintain than air coolers do.


----------



## III-Method-III

^this

I have never liquid cooled a damned thing, but prior to possibly doing so, I have been reading and scouring this (and many other) thread avidly and listening to both sides of the under water argument. Every time Im about to make the decision to put the rig Im about to buy under water I read a post by Doyll who talks sense and makes me realise i could achieve the same, much more cheaply and with almost no risk through air cooling.

Those who choose to put their rigs under water do so because:
a) they understand fully the risks & rewards
b) know its it a LOT more work than air both to install and maintain in good working order. CLC AIO are much less work (why they are popular), but also perform less well than a custom loop - and once broken, you throw them away basically. Unless you buy a brand that allows expansion and/or changing the coolant etc.
c) Water cooling looks cool. I hate the huge air cooling blocks that sit over moder motherboards these days. Water looks so much cleaner....but it comes at a price!
d) Top end custom loops are capable of out cooling a top end air cooler - but you will pay large sums of money for those bragging rights. Unless you are overclocking to the utter limit, give yourself a little pause and ask "why am I doing this" before committing to water cooling


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There are some newer reviews that complain about leaky units. But there are also plenty of people that have never had a problem with their units and for some reason there are not that many reviews that indicate so. I have an older 240-X and it is an awesome unit. When I purchased my H240-X I also found loads of bad reviews for one reason or another (primarily leaky units) but I did it any way primarily because I did my research and found many great personal opinions about the units. I believe that many of the leaky unit complaints are possibly from user error when installing or trying to mess with the unit, though there are a few who did have issues.
> 
> It is your decision on to purchase or not, but if you do and you get a good unit (more than likely) you will not be disappointed.
> 
> If you do get one please do these units a favor and post a review........
> 
> EDIT: Before you buy make sure the unit is one of the newer ones so you do not end up with one of the first run leaky models.


How would one go about deciding whether or not the unit we got is of the troubled first run?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> How would one go about deciding whether or not the unit we got is of the troubled first run?


The first run is long gone. Order from Performance PCs and you can be absolutely sure that you are getting the latest production, and that you are buying from an authorized dealer that will stand behind it.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The first run is long gone. Order from Performance PCs and you can be absolutely sure that you are getting the latest production, and that you are buying from an authorized dealer that will stand behind it.


I'm buying mine tmrw from microcenter


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I'm buying mine tmrw from microcenter


Microcenter has all new stock of these units and they're good with returns if it's damaged or defective.
No worries.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I'm buying mine tmrw from microcenter


Microcenter wasn't a dealer when the first run was produced. So, no worries there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Microcenter has all new stock of these units and they're good with returns if it's damaged or defective.
> No worries.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Microcenter wasn't a dealer when the first run was produced. So, no worries there.


But microcenter has been known to get their hands on old stock and they have had the tendency to try and push items for sales so they can clear their stock.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> But microcenter has been known to get their hands on old stock and they have had the tendency to try and push items for sales so they can clear their stock.


Yes, but how do they get old stock that was completely sold out to other vendors? And that there was a waiting list to buy? In short....they don't. The bulk of the first run went to PPC, with NewEgg and an couple of Amazon dealers getting a small portion. And....that was a year ago.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, but how do they get old stock that was completely sold out to other vendors? And that there was a waiting list to buy? In short....they don't. The bulk of the first run went to PPC, with NewEgg and an couple of Amazon dealers getting a small portion. And....that was a year ago.


I was going off of Microcenter's rep. I wouldn't know who got what and what quantities much less if there are any left in stock anywhere.
I don't trust Microcenter as their prices are never competitive with other sources and I have been to their store, which is 90 minutes away. I felt it was a wasted trip. While I was there I noticed (another customer pointed them out) some products that had issues and they were still trying to sell them.


----------



## OdinValk

Leaving the store! Hope this beast fits my case


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was going off of Microcenter's rep. I wouldn't know who got what and what quantities much less if there are any left in stock anywhere.
> I don't trust Microcenter as their prices are never competitive with other sources and I have been to their store, which is 90 minutes away. I felt it was a wasted trip. While I was there I noticed (another customer pointed them out) some products that had issues and they were still trying to sell them.


Be Microcenter that I go to here in Houston has pretty competitive prices as their price on this was about $10 cheaper than everywhere else and I've never had an issue with their customer service I'm hoping I will never have cause to have issue with their customer service that being said is there any definitive Way by looking at the box or the product to tell whether or not I had been sold ascertain version of said product


----------



## Beagle Box

Not that I could find. Maybe a way to search s/n?


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Not that I could find. Maybe a way to search s/n?


That's kind of what I was thinking if there was a list of model numbers or serial numbers somewhere that would show me which one I have or some physical thing on the loop itself


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> That's kind of what I was thinking if there was a list of model numbers or serial numbers somewhere that would show me which one I have or some physical thing on the loop itself


You can tell if you have a very early model by the controller unit.

http://forums.swiftech.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3541&sid=e18b2197144fc240d6f41483a6b350eb


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> You can tell if you have a very early model by the controller unit.
> 
> http://forums.swiftech.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3541&sid=e18b2197144fc240d6f41483a6b350eb


My controller is like revision 2, raised in the middle. So that's good right?


----------



## Beagle Box

Better than being the first type. If you have no leaks and don't see any cracks in the reservoir body or at the pump outlet fitting, I think you're good to go.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Better than being the first type. If you have no leaks and don't see any cracks in the reservoir body or at the pump outlet fitting, I think you're good to go.


I'm going to hook it up and run it for a few hours to get any flux or cheap that's in it, then empty and rinse, then fill with coolant and run. Also will check for leaks as I'm doing all this. Part of the reason I bought this was to ease into custom "open" loop systems, I figured this is fairly cheap $149, and will help get a hands on learning experience before I eventually build a totally custom open loop


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I'm going to hook it up and run it for a few hours to get any flux or cheap that's in it, then empty and rinse, then fill with coolant and run. Also will check for leaks as I'm doing all this. Part of the reason I bought this was to ease into custom "open" loop systems, I figured this is fairly cheap $149, and will help get a hands on learning experience before I eventually build a totally custom open loop


Yeah. I bought mine to eventually expand it. I move this box around a lot and liked the all-in-one reservoir/pump setup. I have a Black Ice NEMESIS 240 that I'll eventually install (in anticipation of a GPU waterblock). One thing at a time....

BTW:
When you're doing your cleansing runs, make sure the system is completely filled and it's NOT sitting with the pump output pointing up (fans down) . Look at the --ORIENTATIONS-- diagram on the Quick Installation Guide to get this part right or the pump will cavitate, overheat and die an early death.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Yeah. I bought mine to eventually expand it. I move this box around a lot and liked the all-in-one reservoir/pump setup. I have a Black Ice NEMESIS 240 that I'll eventually install (in anticipation of a GPU waterblock). One thing at a time....
> 
> BTW:
> When you're doing your cleansing runs, make sure the system is completely filled and it's NOT sitting with the pump output pointing up (fans down) . Look at the --ORIENTATIONS-- diagram on the Quick Installation Guide to get this part right or the pump will cavitate, overheat and die an early death.


I am going to have it sitting next to my PC (obviously since it needs power from it) and will do my best to prop it up on something to keep it oriented correctly, I am actually about to shut down my PC and start plugging things in, can I plug the 4-pin into any of my mobos 4-pin?


----------



## OdinValk

Also, I have an AMD cpu at the moment, do I need the original cpu mounting back plate that came with my motherboard?


----------



## Beagle Box

I think you need the top bracket, but the under-board bracket is replaced? Dunno. I'm Intel and the AMD side brackets were missing from my kit.


----------



## OdinValk

All I see in the box are the side brackets, and according to the diagram, they just screw into the motherboard. So I am wondering if I indeed need that rear bracket.. I have it, so thats not an issue I just don't know for sure if it needs it


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I am going to have it sitting next to my PC (obviously since it needs power from it) and will do my best to prop it up on something to keep it oriented correctly, I am actually about to shut down my PC and start plugging things in, can I plug the 4-pin into any of my mobos 4-pin?


You don't need the 4 pin plugged in for testing, that is PWM for pump speed. You just need the SATA power plugged in. It will run at full speed without the 4 pin.


----------



## OdinValk

lol I cannot find a SINGLE video or write up on installing this cooler to an AMD board, and whether or not I need that original motherboard back side bracket. I'm almost positive I DO, I guess I'll find out tmrw when I get ready to install this thing


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You don't need the 4 pin plugged in for testing, that is PWM for pump speed. You just need the SATA power plugged in. It will run at full speed without the 4 pin.


Ok. So that's the answer. I thought the PWM controlled the fans. Wasn't sure if it controlled the pump speed as well.


----------



## OdinValk

Far as I can tell, we're up and running!, there are no visible bubbles to signal that the pump is running, but I think I can feel the vibration. Unless that's the fans


----------



## OdinValk

So Beagle's 20hrs of test running seems excessive, or is that a generally good amount of time to let it run the first run through with stock water to try and cleanse the loop of any crap?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> So Beagle's 20hrs of test running seems excessive, or is that a generally good amount of time to let it run the first run through with stock water to try and cleanse the loop of any crap?


Some people swear by and it is extra safe to run it that long. But I have never run it even close to that long. I will usually run a test for about 30 mins to see if anything is leaking and have never had an issue with leaks. Maybe I am just lucky or blessed. But if you are a first timer I would run a leak test for an hour or two at the minimum just to be safe.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Some people swear by and it is extra safe to run it that long. But I have never run it even close to that long. I will usually run a test for about 30 mins to see if anything is leaking and have never had an issue with leaks. Maybe I am just lucky or blessed. But if you are a first timer I would run a leak test for an hour or two at the minimum just to be safe.


I have been running it now for........(checks to see when I posted that I had started it) 2hrs and 15min


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I have been running it now for........(checks to see when I posted that I had started it) 2hrs and 15min


I'd say run for as long as it takes for you to feel comfortable.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'd say run for as long as it takes for you to feel comfortable.


I'm good with it now, but it's 1am so I may just let it run all night and mess with draining and rinsing tmrw. Plus I have to find a way to measure my hydrx and water solution


----------



## Caos

Hi. I want to change the liquid of my h220x2 prestige, after draining, as clean inside?


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Hi. I want to change the liquid of my h220x2 prestige, after draining, as clean inside?


That is essentially what we've been discussing, I bought mine yesterday, and have been testing, going to be emptying the stock liquid and refilling with new coolant today


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> That is essentially what we've been discussing, I bought mine yesterday, and have been testing, going to be emptying the stock liquid and refilling with new coolant today


Thank you for responding, my liquid is 7 months, still looks very good, but I want to change .. I have to rinse with distilled water?


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Thank you for responding, my liquid is 7 months, still looks very good, but I want to change .. I have to rinse with distilled water?


I would suggest either using distilled water or boiling some tap water it distilled water will have less additives and minerals and such in it that could end up coagulating and getting stuck in your block or pump and then once you are done with that add whatever coolant you're going to use if you end up using distilled water for your coolant you should add a biocide like iodine or something pre-made and sold on a Shelf at the computer store


----------



## Caos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I would suggest either using distilled water or boiling some tap water it distilled water will have less additives and minerals and such in it that could end up coagulating and getting stuck in your block or pump and then once you are done with that add whatever coolant you're going to use if you end up using distilled water for your coolant you should add a biocide like iodine or something pre-made and sold on a Shelf at the computer store


Ok thank you very much, I have the mayhent x1 UV blue .. already diluted in distilled water.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caos*
> 
> Ok thank you very much, I have the mayhent x1 UV blue .. already diluted in distilled water.


Mayhems is an excellent fluid and contains the biocide and anti-scaling needed that distilled does not have. And *NEVER* use tap water, boiled or not. It is full of chlorine, minerals and other nasty stuff for your loop. If you happen to have your own distillery around, sure.....but......


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Mayhems is an excellent fluid and contains the biocide and anti-scaling needed that distilled does not have. And *NEVER* use tap water, boiled or not. It is full of chlorine, minerals and other nasty stuff for your loop. If you happen to have your own distillery around, sure.....but......


The hydrx stuff I have, it's a biocide, is it a descaler? Mayhem isn't available, other than the 3 dyes that came with the kit


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said. Never use tap water. Always used biocide and anti-scaling in the ratio in instructions .. don't use too much! |t's usually easier to just get a bottle of Mayhems.

While boiling kills many thing that are alive in in water, it does not distill it at all. Distilled water is condensed steam. I live in a rather humid enviroment and use a de-humidifier in on room. I 'distill' about a liter a month out of the room's air each month.


----------



## OdinValk

What should I use as a descaler? Something I can get from cvs or Wal-Mart, also should I use iodine in addition to hydrx?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> The hydrx stuff I have, it's a biocide, is it a descaler? Mayhem isn't available, other than the 3 dyes that came with the kit


The kt came with Mayhems in it....which is why I am baffled as to why you are changing it.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The kt came with Mayhems in it....which is why I am baffled as to why you are changing it.


I'm not sure if it is or not, it says swiftech not mayhem, but that died isn't dark enough for me


----------



## Caos

Then rinse with distilled water?


----------



## OdinValk

I never said that I personally was going to use tap water for rinsing, I have seen other post and write-ups where people have used tap water for rensing. I am very new to open loop water cooling but not to worry I'm NOT going to use tap water for anything.

I have been driving all over town trying to find one of those wash bottles with the pointed nozzle to no avail I ended up at Academy and got a sports bottle that's exactly one liter to mix my coolant in and we'll have to improvise to get it into the radiator luckily the hole on the side of the radiator is pretty big maybe, 1/2 or 3/4in. So what I bought should be perfect. The three little guys that came with my kit say Swift Tech on them so I am not sure if they are the Mayhem Brand dye that people talk about coming with these kits, either way they are not dark enough for my taste if I do use them I'm still going to put the coolant that I bought yesterday in with distilled water, though I'm not sure that the hydrx coolant and those dyes are compatible or if there is anything I should worry about.


----------



## OdinValk

Sorry if my hand writing isn't legible. But IT BEGINS


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Sorry if my hand writing isn't legible. But IT BEGINS
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good luck.









I started water cooling with a Swiftech H220-X, ended up expanding it with an additional radiator and GPU block. Had really good luck with it.

I am on my second loop now and once you get addicted to water cooling it is hard to go back. Expensive but the results are worth it.


----------



## OdinValk

Thanks for the memories (and temps) old friend, you out performed or were at least on par with the aio coolers I've tried. Time to put you to rest for now.


----------



## OdinValk

Finsihed..... finally


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Finsihed..... finally
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good in there, hope you have good luck with it.


----------



## OdinValk

Thanks bud. I love it so far, though ofc just like all things posted on reddit, someone has to be an a$$... This UV coolant is more of a biocide/corrosion inhibitor and is meant to mixed with 1L of water. will it leave gunk and stuff in my loop?


----------



## Danbeme32

Will I finally hooked up my H240 X2 Prestige in my rig..I really like the look..I still got much work to do. Planning to add a 240 rad at the bottom in white and at the rear a 140mm rad when I get the block for gpu..

The question I have is which 140mm fan is good to replace the Noiseblocker. When overclocking and the fan hits high speed they are noisy. I have a h220 x in my other rig with two 120mm rads and replaced the fans with the DarkSide Gentle Typhoon and they are quiet even in full speed..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Thanks bud. I love it so far, though ofc just like all things posted on reddit, someone has to be an a$$... This UV coolant is more of a biocide/corrosion inhibitor and is meant to mixed with 1L of water. will it leave gunk and stuff in my loop?


I thought you had said that you bought a 1L sports bottle and distilled to mix your coolant in? Did you buy Hydrx PM (pre-mixed in 16 oz. bottle - http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM.aspx), or Hydrx concentrate in the little bottle that is to be mixed with distilled (http://www.swiftech.com/hydrxcoolant.aspx)?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> Will I finally hooked up my H240 X2 Prestige in my rig..I really like the look..I still got much work to do. Planning to add a 240 rad at the bottom in white and at the rear a 140mm rad when I get the block for gpu..
> 
> The question I have is which 140mm fan is good to replace the Noiseblocker. When overclocking and the fan hits high speed they are noisy. I have a h220 x in my other rig with two 120mm rads and replaced the fans with the DarkSide Gentle Typhoon and they are quiet even in full speed..


If you already know for a fact that you prefer the sound of the GTs, you should stick with them. The eLoops are not actually louder than the GTs in terms of dB measurement in most tests, but many are more sensitive to the tonality of them.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you already know for a fact that you prefer the sound of the GTs, you should stick with them. The eLoops are not actually louder than the GTs in terms of dB measurement in most tests, but many are more sensitive to the tonality of them.


its easy to find them GTs 120mm but I dont think they make GTs 140mm. So am looking for a good 140mm that is less nosier then the Noiseblocker


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> its easy to find them GTs 120mm but I dont think they make GTs 140mm. So am looking for a good 140mm that is less nosier then the Noiseblocker


Sorry, my mistake, the H2_40_-X2 didn't register in my brain







. Yes, 140mm choices are slimmer. I recently used the new be quiet! Silent Wings 3 on a Nemesis 280 GTS and was very impressed. Excellent air movement, and the sound profile was definitely better than the eLoop, Vardar or Phanteks F140MP. I was using the F140MP prior, as I found them far better in terms of sound than the eLoop or Vardar with no sacrifice in performance.

Nice info on the Silent Wings can be found here - http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I thought you had said that you bought a 1L sports bottle and distilled to mix your coolant in? Did you buy Hydrx PM (pre-mixed in 16 oz. bottle - http://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-PM.aspx), or Hydrx concentrate in the little bottle that is to be mixed with distilled (http://www.swiftech.com/hydrxcoolant.aspx)?


It was the little bottle, it said to mix it with distilled water


----------



## OdinValk

Come to think of it, I may have diluted it lol, I think it said 1 bottle per .5L


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Come to think of it, I may have diluted it lol, I think it said 1 bottle per .5L


Did you dump the bottle in a liter? Or the whole thing in the res? Did I not tell you to go easy on that stuff? I don't think the system holds more than half a liter. How much HydrX do you have left? I used 1/3 bottle in the stock setup. I'm hard at work expanding mine and will have ~double the capacity, so I'll use the other 2/3 bottle in that.

If you're at double the suggested amount, of HydrX, you've lost cooling efficiency. Not sure about gunking up the system. You can always use a syringe and suck some out and replace with distilled H2O if you think that's needed.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Did you dump the bottle in a liter? Or the whole thing in the res? Did I not tell you to go easy on that stuff? I don't think the system holds more than half a liter. How much HydrX do you have left? I used 1/3 bottle in the stock setup. I'm hard at work expanding mine and will have ~double the capacity, so I'll use the other 2/3 bottle in that.
> 
> If you're at double the suggested amount, of HydrX, you've lost cooling efficiency. Not sure about gunking up the system. You can always use a syringe and suck some out and replace with distilled H2O if you think that's needed.


I put the whole bottle in one liter of water. If it calls for half a liter, then I'm not over recommended amount of hydrx. I actually diluted it too much, and as far as efficiency I'm seeing temps 8-10° power than with the air and even compared to AiO coolers. If I SHOULD change the fluid I will but since it's very diluted hydrx idk if it will be an issue


----------



## Beagle Box

Less is better unless algae develops.


----------



## jase78

Anyone got any pics or examples/suggestions how i shoukd run loop on 240x with gpu in loop? Am in a h440 case and ordered a 280 rad with soft tubing. This will be first time trying this finally . Also not sure if i should leave tje 240x up top or move it to the front and remove hard drive bays and put 280 rad up top..


----------



## liquidfluidity

Just installed the 140x in my Xigmatek Aquila cooling my x58 Xeon W3690 @4.13Ghz. At full bore, it does no better than the Ultima 90 that I had previously installed. I had higher hopes as I know that this chip has way more juice left in it. While benching, I have 1 core hitting 78*C. That's just too much in my opinion.

Do you guys think that it's just because of the limited amount of water circulating too fast? Basically, is this rad too small for my expectations? Everything is always warm to the touch. Heck, it even idles a few degrees higher....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidfluidity*
> 
> Just installed the 140x in my Xigmatek Aquila cooling my x58 Xeon W3690 @4.13Ghz. At full bore, it does no better than the Ultima 90 that I had previously installed. I had higher hopes as I know that this chip has way more juice left in it. While benching, I have 1 core hitting 78*C. That's just too much in my opinion.
> 
> Do you guys think that it's just because of the limited amount of water circulating too fast? Basically, is this rad too small for my expectations? Everything is always warm to the touch. Heck, it even idles a few degrees higher....


I would have gone with a larger rad, possibly the H240-X2.

*For everyone and anyone who will answer:*
Speaking of the H140-X, would that be powerful enough to keep a GTX 1070 card nice and cool?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I would have gone with a larger rad, possibly the H240-X2.
> 
> *For everyone and anyone who will answer:*
> Speaking of the H140-X, would that be powerful enough to keep a GTX 1070 card nice and cool?


The 1070's are a nice, cool running cards. I have a 240mm radiator cooling a 6600k and a 1070 and it never gets over 42C, only 38C when running benchmarks. So I would think a H140-X should be able to cool one without a problem.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> The 1070's are a nice, cool running cards. I have a 240mm radiator cooling a 6600k and a 1070 and it never gets over 42C, only 38C when running benchmarks. So I would think a H140-X should be able to cool one without a problem.


Awesome, thanks for the advice!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I would have gone with a larger rad, possibly the H240-X2.
> 
> *For everyone and anyone who will answer:*
> Speaking of the H140-X, would that be powerful enough to keep a GTX 1070 card nice and cool?


H140X has plenty to keep a 1070 really cool, provided you buy a proper block for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidfluidity*
> 
> Just installed the 140x in my Xigmatek Aquila cooling my x58 Xeon W3690 @4.13Ghz. At full bore, it does no better than the Ultima 90 that I had previously installed. I had higher hopes as I know that this chip has way more juice left in it. While benching, I have 1 core hitting 78*C. That's just too much in my opinion.
> 
> Do you guys think that it's just because of the limited amount of water circulating too fast? Basically, is this rad too small for my expectations? Everything is always warm to the touch. Heck, it even idles a few degrees higher....


It it's not outperforming an Ultima 90, something is wrong. Could be a bad seating on the block, bad airflow to the rad, etc. Forget idle numbers entirely unless they are totally wonky, it is the light load and more that you need to be concerned with. Can you give a rundown on your system specs w/fan placement and orientation so we can try to track down the issue?


----------



## kevindd992002

How about an H220X for an i7-2600K plus 1080Ti, is it enough?


----------



## liquidfluidity

Yeah, my cooling suffered a lot when I installed the 140x. 2 x 120's had to be removed which were my main sources of air flow out of the case. Input is a 200mm on the front. Now the 140x i doing all of the work out. The Aquila mounts the board flat and there was a direct path of air flow from the front to the Ultima-90 directly to a 120mm on the back. I think I'm going to see if I can fit another 2 x 120mm or a 2 x 140mm on the top and move the 140x to the back. Things got real cramped as soon as I moved the 140x in. It's pump should easily be able to control the heat in my case plus a bit more of an overclock on my chip....I hope.

My Case - http://www.xigmatek.com/product_detail.php?item=92


----------



## Cyn

Currently, I am using my H220-X on an Z97 build. I'm upgrading shortly to X99, but I don't know where my other mounting brackets are. Are you able to buy mounting brackets for the 2011-3 socket?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> H140X has plenty to keep a 1070 really cool, provided you buy a proper block for it.


You think the Heatkiller by watercool is a proper block?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You think the Heatkiller by watercool is a proper block?


The Heatkiller was on my short list when picking blocks, I ended up going with an Aquacomputer because the Heatkiller back plates were unavailable when I ordered mine. They make some really nice blocks though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You think the Heatkiller by watercool is a proper block?


Of course. Great blocks.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How about an H220X for an i7-2600K plus 1080Ti, is it enough?


Bump!


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Bump!


Borderline. Definitely not if you plan any overclocking. You'd need additional rad space. I'd go with the larger H240X2 either way.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Borderline. Definitely not if you plan any overclocking. You'd need additional rad space. I'd go with the larger H240X2 either way.


How much difference should I experience between mine and the H240X2?


----------



## Beagle Box

If you already have the H220, then don't worry about it. Hook it up and see if it provides adequate cooling. The good thing about the Swiftech is that if you find it's not cooling enough to meet your needs, you can easily add another rad to the loop if you have the space.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> If you already have the H220, then don't worry about it. Hook it up and see if it provides adequate cooling. The good thing about the Swiftech is that if you find it's not cooling enough to meet your needs, you can easily add another rad to the loop if you have the space.


That's the thing, I just don't have any space left, lol. I guess I'd have to upgrade my case eventually. Will the pump suffice if you add another, say, 280mm rad?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's the thing, I just don't have any space left, lol. I guess I'd have to upgrade my case eventually. Will the pump suffice if you add another, say, 280mm rad?


The pump will suffice with two more rads in addition to the GPU.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump will suffice with two more rads in addition to the GPU.


Gotcha! Will adding a 120mm rad improve anything? I still have space in my rear fan slot. Or would it be just waste and better to upgrade my case?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Gotcha! Will adding a 120mm rad improve anything? I still have space in my rear fan slot. Or would it be just waste and better to upgrade my case?


When I first got my H220-X I had it expanded with a GPU block and a 120mm radiator cooling a 4690K and a GTX 970 both OCed and it did very well cooling them. I thought I might get even better cooling by adding a 240mm to the front as intake and removing the 120mm radiator. The temps were the same. I think it was having the hot air intake from the front rad increasing the temps on the H220-X. So I think the combination of the H220-X and the 120mm radiator should be good unless you want to get a new case.

Adding an additional 120mm gives you 360mm of radiator which should be plenty.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> When I first got my H220-X I had it expanded with a GPU block and a 120mm radiator cooling a 4690K and a GTX 970 both OCed and it did very well cooling them. I thought I might get even better cooling by adding a 240mm to the front as intake and removing the 120mm radiator. The temps were the same. I think it was having the hot air intake from the front rad increasing the temps on the H220-X. So I think the combination of the H220-X and the 120mm radiator should be good unless you want to get a new case.
> 
> Adding an additional 120mm gives you 360mm of radiator which should be plenty.


That's a relief then! Thanks. Any good 120mm rads out there that you recommend?

Also, how do I get it setup if my 240mm rad is in the top of the case and the 120mm on the rear fan slot? Currently, the 240mm rad's fans are set in pull configuration to direct air out of the case.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That's a relief then! Thanks. Any good 120mm rads out there that you recommend?
> 
> Also, how do I get it setup if my 240mm rad is in the top of the case and the 120mm on the rear fan slot? Currently, the 240mm rad's fans are set in pull configuration to direct air out of the case.




That is how I had mine set up. I used the Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-120gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-black-carbon-radiator.html#Details

Really nice radiators.


----------



## kevindd992002

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> 
> 
> That is how I had mine set up. I used the Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-120gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-black-carbon-radiator.html#Details
> 
> Really nice radiators.


Thanks. You set it up that way so that hot air won't be blown into the system, right?

I guess I'll create another thread for 120mm rad recommendations but how does that rad become "low profile"? Any disadvantage of using low profiles?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. You set it up that way so that hot air won't be blown into the system, right?
> 
> I guess I'll create another thread for 120mm rad recommendations but how does that rad become "low profile"? Any disadvantage of using low profiles?


Yeah I had both radiators exhausting out of the case. I had size restrictions with that case fitting the H220-X plus radiator and fan couldn't use a radiator over 30mm thick, seemed to work just fine.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah I had both radiators exhausting out of the case. I had size restrictions with that case fitting the H220-X plus radiator and fan couldn't use a radiator over 30mm thick, seemed to work just fine.


I see. Would using a normal profile rad be better then?



The picture above is not that clear but that was a pic of my system when I still had two GPU's. The 120mm rad there is the one from the Arctic Cooling Hybrid Cooler GPU AIO. Do you think I would have size restrictions also when I buy a new rad? I wouldn't think so.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Would using a normal profile rad be better then?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture above is not that clear but that was a pic of my system when I still had two GPU's. The 120mm rad there is the one from the Arctic Cooling Hybrid Cooler GPU AIO. Do you think I would have size restrictions also when I buy a new rad? I wouldn't think so.


Yeah looks like yours mounts far enough below the Swiftech to go about as thick as you want. I would probably go with a 45mm thick one if I had the room.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah looks like yours mounts far enough below the Swiftech to go about as thick as you want. I would probably go with a 45mm thick one if I had the room.


Ok, I'll see what I can find out. Thanks!


----------



## mnemo_05

Has anyone used an h220x on a Fractal Design Core 500?

I know the there us a 100mm limit of the Core 500 but I reckon using an SFX PSU will circumvent that limitation.

Any photos you guys can share? Thanks!


----------



## kevindd992002

@rfarmer

Would it also make sense to, in addition to installing a 120mm rad in the rear fan slot, install another 140mm in the bottom fan slot?

Also, is the peformance of 1x360mm rad more or less similar to that of a combination of 1x240mm in series with 1x120mm?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @rfarmer
> 
> Would it also make sense to, in addition to installing a 120mm rad in the rear fan slot, install another 140mm in the bottom fan slot?
> 
> Also, is the peformance of 1x360mm rad more or less similar to that of a combination of 1x240mm in series with 1x120mm?


Yeah the performance of a 240+120mm should be very similar to a 360mm rad.

As far as the additional radiator goes I think I would try the 120mm first and see if you have acceptable temps. More components will be a bigger pain to connect and you also have a greater chance of leaking.


----------



## shamus20

^ in corsair 350D


^ in inwin 805

short review of swiftech h220x and x2
so i bought the swiftech h220x a couple years ago after a couple months the water caused the lexan reservoir to crack after a rma to ncix i couldnt get another one.

a year later i got my current h220x2. the cooler is brilliant it even survived the mild winter without cracking. but about a year after purchase the pump started making sounds. as far as i am aware of there is no replacement for this component but cooling wise it far surpasses the h100i in cooling potential, even after replacing the stock fans with noctua industrial 2000rpm. on big gripe about swiftech aio's they are hard to find after initial release. even big box stores makes it hard to find.

on a side note, anyone know if the hydrx-pm is a good option for coolant? it is the only one i can find locally.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> 
> 
> ^ in corsair 350D
> 
> 
> ^ in inwin 805
> 
> short review of swiftech h220x and x2
> so i bought the swiftech h220x a couple years ago after a couple months the water caused the lexan reservoir to crack after a rma to ncix i couldnt get another one.
> 
> a year later i got my current h220x2. the cooler is brilliant it even survived the mild winter without cracking. but about a year after purchase the pump started making sounds. as far as i am aware of there is no replacement for this component but cooling wise it far surpasses the h100i in cooling potential, even after replacing the stock fans with noctua industrial 2000rpm. on big gripe about swiftech aio's they are hard to find after initial release. even big box stores makes it hard to find.
> 
> on a side note, anyone know if the hydrx-pm is a good option for coolant? it is the only one i can find locally.


I'm using hydrx pm, it works great. I bought the unmixed stuff, and accidentally used too much water, but it's bright as hell and the cooling efficiency is unmatched


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Yeah the performance of a 240+120mm should be very similar to a 360mm rad.
> 
> As far as the additional radiator goes I think I would try the 120mm first and see if you have acceptable temps. More components will be a bigger pain to connect and you also have a greater chance of leaking.


Change of plans







I decided to upgrade my case to a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX so there's that. I have more room to work with. Do you still suggest I start to add only a 120mm rad when I have the room to add a bigger one? And where do you think I should mount the H220X, in the top or front?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Change of plans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to upgrade my case to a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX so there's that. I have more room to work with. Do you still suggest I start to add only a 120mm rad when I have the room to add a bigger one? And where do you think I should mount the H220X, in the top or front?


Evolv is a beautiful case but there are some airflow restrictions you have to take into account. First I would mount the H220-X in the top, if in the front it is either backwards or upside down which Swiftech doesn't recommend. The top has a slide out radiator bracket which makes it easier to fill the reservoir, the problem with the top is the restricted airflow. The Swiftech aren't too bad because they don't use really high rpm fans. What happens is that the air is not able to exit through the top so it pushes back down around the radiator and gets fed back into the radiator heated which increases temps. What Evolv owners are doing is blocking off the open areas around the radiator, most use either cardboard or tape. Like I said the Swiftech don't do too bad but the EK Predator with the higher speed fans gets really bad performance if you don't block off the open areas.

If you haven't ordered yet you might look at the Pro M, not as good looking of a case but the cooling is better and interior layout is almost identical.

Edit: You can also go with a 140mm radiator in the back with the Phanteks.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Evolv is a beautiful case but there are some airflow restrictions you have to take into account. First I would mount the H220-X in the top, if in the front it is either backwards or upside down which Swiftech doesn't recommend. The top has a slide out radiator bracket which makes it easier to fill the reservoir, the problem with the top is the restricted airflow. The Swiftech aren't too bad because they don't use really high rpm fans. What happens is that the air is not able to exit through the top so it pushes back down around the radiator and gets fed back into the radiator heated which increases temps. What Evolv owners are doing is blocking off the open areas around the radiator, most use either cardboard or tape. Like I said the Swiftech don't do too bad but the EK Predator with the higher speed fans gets really bad performance if you don't block off the open areas.
> 
> If you haven't ordered yet you might look at the Pro M, not as good looking of a case but the cooling is better and interior layout is almost identical.
> 
> Edit: You can also go with a 140mm radiator in the back with the Phanteks.


That was mainly my concern with the Evolv ATX. Fortunately though, @ciarlatano and @doyll both have had experience with this case and pretty much helped me decide on it. Here's my thread about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case/0_10

You're right about blocking off the unused space for that case. And regarding the H220X, if you check its manual on the website, Swiftech actually allows it to be mounted on the front just not on the bottom where it will stay upside down. With that in mind, do you still think I should mount it on the top because of the radiator bracket alone?

Would it be overkill, if say, I put another 240mm in the loop?


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> That was mainly my concern with the Evolv ATX. Fortunately though, @ciarlatano and @doyll both have had experience with this case and pretty much helped me decide on it. Here's my thread about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case/0_10
> 
> You're right about blocking off the unused space for that case. And regarding the H220X, if you check its manual on the website, Swiftech actually allows it to be mounted on the front just not on the bottom where it will stay upside down. With that in mind, do you still think I should mount it on the top because of the radiator bracket alone?
> 
> Would it be overkill, if say, I put another 240mm in the loop?


another option is the inwin 303. the amount is space is amazing in that case. if you are using a matx it has room for 2 360mm rads and one 120mm.
for cheaper than the enthoo. its 99 CAD atm


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> another option is the inwin 303. the amount is space is amazing in that case. if you are using a matx it has room for 2 360mm rads and one 120mm.
> for cheaper than the enthoo. its 99 CAD atm


Here's my thread on the topic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case/0_10 and they don't recommend the inWin 303 there. The Swiftech H220X won't fit at the top as well.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Here's my thread on the topic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627438/best-bang-for-the-buck-mid-tower-atx-case/0_10 and they don't recommend the inWin 303 there. The Swiftech H220X won't fit at the top as well.


the in win 303 is a fairly new case, but i will be happy to test the compatibility in a week when i help my buddy upgrade his computer, but from the space available at the top it will easily fit. it fits 360mm rads and the mounting holes should not be problem. i will post again when i get a chance to test the setup on his computer. i forgot to mention that not everyone has had experience with all cases, just because the enthoo has had a huge following doesn't mean that you should limit yourself to others suggestions, take a look at builds and see if it fits your aesthetic. thats how i built my corsair 350d and inwin 805 systems, even my corsair 400c (server build) was designed with that in mind


this is the case in question though. with a core 2 quad setup inside


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> the in win 303 is a fairly new case, but i will be happy to test the compatibility in a week when i help my buddy upgrade his computer, but from the space available at the top it will easily fit. it fits 360mm rads and the mounting holes should not be problem. i will post again when i get a chance to test the setup on his computer. i forgot to mention that not everyone has had experience with all cases, just because the enthoo has had a huge following doesn't mean that you should limit yourself to others suggestions, take a look at builds and see if it fits your aesthetic. thats how i built my corsair 350d and inwin 805 systems, even my corsair 400c (server build) was designed with that in mind
> 
> 
> this is the case in question though. with a core 2 quad setup inside


Great! Thanks.

Yeah, I'm actually open to suggestions. It's just that I love the looks of the Evolv. I also like the InWin 303 but I don't like the fact that the rad on top is mounted sideways blowing into the other side. Where does the hot air escape from there? I also don't know if I like the PSU being on top of the case. It just feels weird to me given that most cases now have it at the bottom.

EDIT:

When do I use QDC's in a loop? Are they recommended? I heard they are very restrictive.

And how do you mount the H220X in front?


----------



## AudioGod

Hi all, for anybody wondering if the H320 x2 can handle a 1080 ti along with a 7700k with them both maxed out overclock wise then I can confirm 100% that it's not a problem at all.
I was going to make a custom loop because everybody online from what I researched was saying It couldn't be done on a 360 rad and that the loop wouldn't be able to handle it and get too hot the second I pushed anysort of overclock but I thought I've got everything I need right here so I took the plunge and gave it a go anyway and oh my gosh it works better then I could of imagined.
The CPU is @5.1ghz and the 1080 ti is +150 on the core and +500 on the memory and the CPU isn't going above 69c under full load and the gpu is maxing out at 45c.
I hope anybody that wanted to do the same and fit a 1080ti to the h320 x2 gets to read my post and it puts there mind at ease because I promise you the H320 x2 can more then handle it. I'm over the moon.


----------



## kevindd992002

How do you guys (what orientation) mount your H220X in front of a case assuming I'll be adding a reservoir?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do you guys (what orientation) mount your H220X in front of a case assuming I'll be adding a reservoir?


I'm not sure the H220X can be mounted in that position. I may be wrong though, maybe it can't be mounted in the rear of the case.....


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I'm not sure the H220X can be mounted in that position. I may be wrong though, maybe it can't be mounted in the rear of the case.....


It is possible as it can be mounted vertically. There's this way or this but I don't know which is the more preferred one assuming I'll be adding a res. I miss Brian from Swiftech


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> It is possible as it can be mounted vertically. There's this way or this but I don't know which is the more preferred one assuming I'll be adding a res. I miss Brian from Swiftech


Yeah he has been offline for awhile now. At least with him here we could get answers.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> It is possible as it can be mounted vertically. There's this way or this but I don't know which is the more preferred one assuming I'll be adding a res. I miss Brian from Swiftech


http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx#tab4 If you look at that the only orientation you can't mount it in is upside down.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah he has been offline for awhile now. At least with him here we could get answers.


Yeah, he abandoned the thread as soon as he resigned from Swiftech.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx#tab4 If you look at that the only orientation you can't mount it in is upside down.


Right, I know that pic. But I'm sure there would be a preferred way (between the two pics I've linked) to go about when considering tube routing with an additional res, no?

For radiators mounted vertically, does it matter if the tubing is up top or in the bottom? I remember reading something about keeping air bubbles trapped in the rad or something.


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How do you guys (what orientation) mount your H220X in front of a case assuming I'll be adding a reservoir?


Depends on where you want the air bubble to form and how you plan to burp it out.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, he abandoned the thread as soon as he resigned from Swiftech.
> 
> Right, I know that pic. But I'm sure there would be a preferred way (between the two pics I've linked) to go about when considering tube routing with an additional res, no?
> 
> For radiators mounted vertically, does it matter if the tubing is up top or in the bottom? I remember reading something about keeping air bubbles trapped in the rad or something.


I don't know for sure but my guess is mount it the way in the second pic and have the res above it, that way gravity will feed the water to the pump.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Depends on where you want the air bubble to form and how you plan to burp it out.


I'm a noob in watercooling so I apologize. I may need a guiding hand here. My setup will contain ultimately these components:

H220X (pump+res combo, rad, CPU waterblock)

GPU waterblock

Additional Black Ice 280 GTS radiator

Reservoir (not sure which one to use, yet)

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case

So with those in mind, @ciarlatano suggested mount the H220X rad in front, the 280mm in at the top, and add an additional reservoir to make filling and bleeding easier. But then comes my initial question of what orientation is best if I mount the H220X in the front?


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm a noob in watercooling so I apologize. I may need a guiding hand here. My setup will contain ultimately these components:
> 
> H220X (pump+res combo, rad, CPU waterblock)
> GPU waterblock
> Additional Black Ice 280 GTS radiator
> Reservoir (not sure which one to use, yet)
> Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case
> 
> So with those in mind, @ciarlatano suggested mount the H220X rad in front, the 280mm in at the top, and add an additional reservoir to make filling and bleeding easier. But then comes my initial question of what orientation is best if I mount the H220X in the front?


No apology needed, but you need to get used to doing some of the thinking on your project.

Consider that if you flip the Swiftech so that the hose connections are nearer the bottom of your case, a bubble will form in the Swiftech rad farthest away from the hose ports. You'll have to flip the case to remove that bubble. You have to ask yourself if you can find a way to flip it without creating another, perhaps larger bubble somewhere else in your system depending on which additional res you acquire and where you install it. You need to think it out. Maybe draw a diagram or find a similar build and consider how you'll go about filling, emptying, cleaning and burping. You're not going to know exactly how it's going to go together until you have your parts sitting on the table in front of you.

I have a Swiftech H220x2 and an additional Nemesis 240 GTX rad. My current setup is simple and requires me to pull my sd card reader from my front panel to access my res. I'm cool with that. There are many right ways to do this. Every setup has its positives and negatives and it's really up to you to decide which is best for you.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> No apology needed, but you need to get used to doing some of the thinking on your project.
> 
> Consider that if you flip the Swiftech so that the hose connections are nearer the bottom of your case, a bubble will form in the Swiftech rad farthest away from the hose ports. You'll have to flip the case to remove that bubble. You have to ask yourself if you can find a way to flip it without creating another, perhaps larger bubble somewhere else in your system depending on which additional res you acquire and where you install it. You need to think it out. Maybe draw a diagram or find a similar build and consider how you'll go about filling, emptying, cleaning and burping. You're not going to know exactly how it's going to go together until you have your parts sitting on the table in front of you.
> 
> I have a Swiftech H220x2 and an additional Nemesis 240 GTX rad. My current setup is simple and requires me to pull my sd card reader from my front panel to access my res. I'm cool with that. There are many right ways to do this. Every setup has its positives and negatives and it's really up to you to decide which is best for you.


I will as long as I know the basics already. For now, I'm still learning which is why I ask many questions on top of my own research of course.

From what you said about air bubbles forming in the Swiftech rad farthest away from the hose ports, is this why generally rads are vertically oriented in such a way that the hoses are in the top because air bubbles naturally go up?


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Great! Thanks.
> 
> Yeah, I'm actually open to suggestions. It's just that I love the looks of the Evolv. I also like the InWin 303 but I don't like the fact that the rad on top is mounted sideways blowing into the other side. Where does the hot air escape from there? I also don't know if I like the PSU being on top of the case. It just feels weird to me given that most cases now have it at the bottom.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> When do I use QDC's in a loop? Are they recommended? I heard they are very restrictive.
> 
> And how do you mount the H220X in front?


i usually prefer to setup my cases with positive pressure in mind, that has given me the best experience accross the computer i have built and have built for others. so in that orientation.

top fans from left to right.
exhaust (gpu exhaust), intake, intake
bottom
intake, intake, intake
back
exhaust

this way the exhaust can escape from both the psu and the back fan.
as for having the psu up higher it feels weird but the layout of the case makes it really easy to hide cables and mess. the area at the top is just for intake or exhaust so you can always mount a couple drives up there cleaning up any possible mess. initially i did agree with the thought that having a psu at the top was not normal (by todays standards) but after building my server and other computers that generally just sit and look pretty the idea grew on me. my current desk setup has the power cord sticking out over the monitor due to limited space, so i stare at the cable when i am looking at it. having the power cable at the bottom makes sense if it is living on a desk, but if you are placing the computer on the ground you will likely appreciate having the capability to plug it in higher.

let me apologize for having broken thoughts in this post i am a little distracted by studying at the moment.

as for the last question.... it depends on orientation. for my case i had to mount the reservoir facing the side panel of the case, at first i didn't like it but over time i actually prefer not having the leds on the front lighting up the room. looks way better lighting up the wall.







in the end the light leak from the leds into the reservoir was more than enough to give me all the colour i really needed or even wanted.


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> ...
> From what you said about air bubbles forming in the Swiftech rad farthest away from the hose ports, is this why generally rads are vertically oriented in such a way that the hoses are in the top because air bubbles naturally go up?


Yes. Air will collect in any high pocket and you'll need to work it out of the system. If your hose connections are on the bottom of your rad, you'll need to invert your case to move that air. It usually means tipping your box around at different angles until the bubbles move out and collect into one big bubble at a drain port or in the res.


----------



## bluedevil

Hey if anyone wants to check out Project BLUEDEVIL, which has a H240X2 at it's heart....

https://ibb.co/ifLaQk

http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey if anyone wants to check out Project BLUEDEVIL, which has a H240X2 at it's heart....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://ibb.co/ifLaQk
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil


That looks like a good way to set it up, nice looking build.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Yes. Air will collect in any high pocket and you'll need to work it out of the system. If your hose connections are on the bottom of your rad, you'll need to invert your case to move that air. It usually means tipping your box around at different angles until the bubbles move out and collect into one big bubble at a drain port or in the res.


If I put it the other way (res/pump combo and hoses on top) and add another res, won't that be a problem because the stock res/pump combo would tend to be a little bit higher (or the same height) as the new res?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey if anyone wants to check out Project BLUEDEVIL, which has a H240X2 at it's heart....
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1622198/sponsored-project-bluedevil


How did it go with the bleeding process for your system? Did any air bubble get stuck in the top portion of the H240X2 rad as explained above?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I will as long as I know the basics already. For now, I'm still learning which is why I ask many questions on top of my own research of course.
> 
> From what you said about air bubbles forming in the Swiftech rad farthest away from the hose ports, is this why generally rads are vertically oriented in such a way that the hoses are in the top because air bubbles naturally go up?


Run the pump at full speed for 24 hours and the problem will cease to exist. It's that simple. Don't overthink it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Run the pump at full speed for 24 hours and the problem will cease to exist. It's that simple. Don't overthink it.


Ok. So are you saying both vertical orientations are fine and doesn't make any difference? When you add another res to the loop, will that be the one and only point of loop filling and bleeding?


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Run the pump at full speed for 24 hours and the problem will cease to exist. It's that simple. Don't overthink it.


Just recently had a huge bubble in my secondary rad that was undiscovered until I flipped my case for another reason. It's an extra thick, front/back rad. Maybe that made a difference... I guess it's whatever your experience has been and whether it matters to you.

That's good placement in the BLUEDEVIL case. I'm assuming the PSU cover is easily removed, allowing plenty of room below to service the res.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> Just recently had a huge bubble in my secondary rad that was undiscovered until I flipped my case for another reason. It's an extra thick, front/back rad. Maybe that made a difference... I guess it's whatever your experience has been and whether it matters to you.
> 
> That's good placement in the BLUEDEVIL case. I'm assuming the PSU cover is easily removed, allowing plenty of room below to service the res.


I actually did a drain system as well...I will post a video later.


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I actually did a drain system as well...I will post a video later.


Snap a quick photo and give Kevin and the rest of us an idea how you worked it out.


----------



## bluedevil

I will when I get home from work....Got the video on my phone...


----------



## bluedevil

Here ya go guys. Sorry for the poor quality....not used to filming with my Pixel yet...













https://ibb.co/hgGco5
https://ibb.co/m4Oe1Q
https://ibb.co/kCuV85
https://ibb.co/iXNHo5


----------



## Beagle Box

Thanks for the pix. That looks convenient.


----------



## kevindd992002

Smooth! When you drain your system, will all liquid come out of that port easily? Or do you still need to shake it up?

And where do you fill the loop?


----------



## kevindd992002

@ciarlatano

This is the route that I'm thinking, let me know if it works:

Additional res out -> H220X in (front-mounted with ports in the bottom) -> H220X out -> 280mm rad in (top-mounted, not sure if ports should be in the left or right side) -> 280mm rad out -> CPU block in -> CPU block out -> GPU block in -> GPU block out -> Additional res in (return)

Would that work?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @ciarlatano
> 
> This is the route that I'm thinking, let me know if it works:
> 
> Additional res out -> H220X in (front-mounted with ports in the bottom) -> H220X out -> 280mm rad in (top-mounted, not sure if ports should be in the left or right side) -> 280mm rad out -> CPU block in -> CPU block out -> GPU block in -> GPU block out -> Additional res in (return)
> 
> Would that work?


That works. Ports toward the front of the case would likely be easier.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That works. Ports toward the front of the case would likely be easier.


Are you referring to the ports of the top 280mm rad? If so, would you prefer mounting the rad in the top left and top center 140mm fan slots OR top center and top right 140mm fan slots?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you referring to the ports of the top 280mm rad? If so, would you prefer mounting the rad in the top left and top center 140mm fan slots OR top center and top right 140mm fan slots?


I was referring to the 280mm rad ports. I would say that the rear two slots would most likely be the easiest to work with. You need to test fit when you have your components.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I was referring to the 280mm rad ports. I would say that the rear two slots would most likely be the easiest to work with. You need to test fit when you have your components.


Got it. For the res, would I still need to use a fill line that would connect to its top port and do the filling while the top of the line is the highest in the loop? Is this fill line something that's temporary only?

How about ball valves for draining?


----------



## bluedevil




----------



## jase78

would like some thoughts /opinions on this placement for my 240x in my h440. my 1080ti block will be here Friday and i am using additional 280 rad at the top and removing the hard drive bays to accomidate the 240x. I plan on having a piece of hose and connector to fill/bleed the unit but am unsure of what i will shove in the other end of the hose to plug it back up once finished but im sure i can find something at a hardware store.


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> 
> 
> would like some thoughts /opinions on this placement for my 240x in my h440. my 1080ti block will be here Friday and i am using additional 280 rad at the top and removing the hard drive bays to accomidate the 240x. I plan on having a piece of hose and connector to fill/bleed the unit but am unsure of what i will shove in the other end of the hose to plug it back up once finished but im sure i can find something at a hardware store.


If you're going to leave the fill/drain hose on the res install a compression fitting on the end of your fill hose->ball valve-> the cap that you took off your fill tank.


----------



## xGeNeSisx

Anyone have experience mounting the 240x Prestige in a Fractal R5? I currently have a Corsair H105 mounted there, and a friend wants a 240mm rad and I have been thinking of upgrading so I've been looking at the Swiftech. The cooler would be for the CPU for now, I currently have an H55 with Kraken G10 cooling my 1070. The Swiftech would be great as I could add a GPU block down the line as the H55 is performing very well at the moment.

I'd prefer to keep the top panels on for noise dampening, but if it is quiet enough I wouldn't be against taking them off and placing it on top. I know the tubing isn't very long. I know I could replace it, I just wanted to have a setup to learn more about custom loops. I think that the 240x Prestige would be best for my situation rather than an H220/360.

I am also not against going with other options. The Alphacool expandable rads don't allow as much room for expansion as the H240x, from what I have seen. Also not against going ahead and making a loop from a Kit, I've looked at the XSPC, EK, and Raystorm kits. If it is a better value than the H240x in regards to priceerformance then I am interested. I've only used Corsair rads due to convenience, but I always wanted to get a true watercooling setup.

Any help appreciated, thanks guys!


----------



## kevindd992002

Has anyone already tried mounting an H220X in front of the Evolv ATX? If so, can you guys post some pictures of it?

Also, if I were to use a Black Ice GTS 280 up top together with the H220X on front, what is the best reservoir I can use? Is it mountable on the case itself?


----------



## Cyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyn*
> 
> Currently, I am using my H220-X on an Z97 build. I'm upgrading shortly to X99, but I don't know where my other mounting brackets are. Are you able to buy mounting brackets for the 2011-3 socket or do they use the same bracketing system?


Apologize for the self bump, just wanted to see if anybody happens to know this, whether they be from users or from Swiftech.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyn*
> 
> Apologize for the self bump, just wanted to see if anybody happens to know this, whether they be from users or from Swiftech.


According to their website you use the 4 Spring loaded screws & washers, 2011 has it's own backplate.


----------



## OdinValk

Send an e-mail to swiftech, they reply pretty quickly to questions. Or if you have facebook they have a page and will answer there too


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Has anyone already tried mounting an H220X in front of the Evolv ATX? If so, can you guys post some pictures of it?
> 
> Also, if I were to use a Black Ice GTS 280 up top together with the H220X on front, what is the best reservoir I can use? Is it mountable on the case itself?


BUMP on this question too?


----------



## liquidfluidity

This is kind of a general water cooling question but will be based around the 140-x. Since I have a 140-x and it's not sufficient to cool my whole system, I have decided to add a 200mm in the front of my case - Xigmatek Aquila. My question is this - when adding this radiator, will I benefit from going to 1/2" id tubing from the stock 3/8" tubing since I will be running this much more water. Kind of a volume vs pressure question. I am overclocking a w3690 on a AR3 Gene. Once I installed the 140-x, my fan situation became an issue and I had to remove them because of the space that the 140-x took up. It's now my only ventilation going out of the case and it cannot keep up - thus the addition of the 200mm. Once I start the modded install, I am going to hopefully remove the disc drive cage which will allow me to move the 140-x over and I will be able to add back another fan or two.... Anyway, since I have this all apart, will I gain anything by going to the larger fittings and tubing?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidfluidity*
> 
> This is kind of a general water cooling question but will be based around the 140-x. Since I have a 140-x and it's not sufficient to cool my whole system, I have decided to add a 200mm in the front of my case - Xigmatek Aquila. My question is this - when adding this radiator, will I benefit from going to 1/2" id tubing from the stock 3/8" tubing since I will be running this much more water. Kind of a volume vs pressure question. I am overclocking a w3690 on a AR3 Gene. Once I installed the 140-x, my fan situation became an issue and I had to remove them because of the space that the 140-x took up. It's now my only ventilation going out of the case and it cannot keep up - thus the addition of the 200mm. Once I start the modded install, I am going to hopefully remove the disc drive cage which will allow me to move the 140-x over and I will be able to add back another fan or two.... Anyway, since I have this all apart, will I gain anything by going to the larger fittings and tubing?


Yes adding an extra rad will help some. 1/2" over 3/8" tubing will not make any real difference in cooling performance though continuing to use 3/8" will probably give you better pressure.
If you using the NZXT phantom listed in your sig I would highly recommend getting a H240X2 (or even the 340) as that should fit in the top of your case just fine and it will definitely give you much more cooling capacity.


----------



## liquidfluidity

Thanks for replying. I also updated my sig rig... Haven't had that one for a while, Lol

So, no on the Phantom. I now have the little rocket listed. I'm having cooling issues and that's why I'm adding the rad. Mayve my first post will make a little more sense now that you see I'm running matx. My chip has another 3-400mhz to easily squeeze out. Trying to get my cooling squared away first.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Has anyone already tried mounting an H220X in front of the Evolv ATX? If so, can you guys post some pictures of it?
> 
> Also, if I were to use a Black Ice GTS 280 up top together with the H220X on front, what is the best reservoir I can use? Is it mountable on the case itself?


Anybody please?


----------



## mnemo_05

so my rig just arrived and I am on the process of assembling this beautiful beast.. using a 7700K, what temps should I expect when I use it with my H200-X2?

I will OC to atleast 4.7Ghz with an little voltage adjustment as possible. Thanks!


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> so my rig just arrived and I am on the process of assembling this beautiful beast.. using a 7700K, what temps should I expect when I use it with my H200-X2?
> 
> I will OC to atleast 4.7Ghz with an little voltage adjustment as possible. Thanks!


H_220_x2...

I have the H220x2 and ran an i7-7700 for a bit.

At 4.7 and above, idle temps will hit between 29-32C depending on how aggressive you are with your BIOS, pump and fan settings. Stock [Auto] Motherboard settings are often high for VCore and that can raise heat levels. You shouldn't see much above 80C at 4.7 unless bench testing the CPU, in which case, you'll be at and over 80C much of the time. If you plan to go over 4.85GHz, you'll want to add more cooling for benching or heavy computational work, but average use and gaming should be ok. From my experience, the i7-7700 is a warm chip at all speeds and can get damn hot over 4.8GHz. Runs Windows like a demon, though, and the interface speed is easy to get used to.

XTU can give you a good idea of what to expect from moderate all-around work. XTU settings are _never_ optimal for any one purpose, but can serve to help you zero in on your PC's sweet spots for performance/stability. Once you're done with XTU, be sure to disable/manual its engine in Services. It likes to set itself to autostart like 3Dmark's Futuremark.

Just my experience. YMMV


----------



## mnemo_05

^Thanks!

I am considering delidding my 7700k but for now I will keep it as it is. Still not done putting my rig together, squeezing a h220-x2 and a h75 in a fractal core 500 is no joke. And the hard to manage cables of my corsair 600w sfx is not helping either lmao!

Here she is, trying to bleed out before installation, I dont see any point using the free dye, my case do not have any window anyway. Unless I pull out the dremel, hmm.. maybe next time.


Any fan controller recommendation? Im torn whether I go with a Lamptron FC series or the NZXT Grid+ V2. I need to control at least 5 fans(3 x 120 GTs and 2 x 92mm slim noctuas)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> ^Thanks!
> 
> I am considering delidding my 7700k but for now I will keep it as it is. Still not done putting my rig together, squeezing a h220-x2 and a h75 in a fractal core 500 is no joke. And the hard to manage cables of my corsair 600w sfx is not helping either lmao!
> 
> Here she is, trying to bleed out before installation, I dont see any point using the free dye, my case do not have any window anyway. Unless I pull out the dremel, hmm.. maybe next time.
> 
> 
> Any fan controller recommendation? Im torn whether I go with a Lamptron FC series or the NZXT Grid+ V2. I need to control at least 5 fans(3 x 120 GTs and 2 x 92mm slim noctuas)


Why not get rid of the H75 and buy a GPU block? Simplifies your install, improves performance and lowers noise. What you are doing is a bit like having two tons of gravel to move, putting 500 pounds in a dump truck capable of three tons, and trying to load the rest in the back of a 1974 Ford Pinto that won't fit in the loading area along with the truck. It really makes no sense.


----------



## mnemo_05

^not a fan of gpu blocks and custom loops, too much work. from assemby to leak test to filling up and maintenance too. or maybe im just lazy or scared to do it, lmao


















well they do fit nicely


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> ^not a fan of gpu blocks and custom loops, too much work. from assemby to leak test to filling up and maintenance too. or maybe im just lazy or scared to do it, lmao
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well they do fit nicely


The building and the too much work stages are the most exciting stages of the whole custom watercooling idea


----------



## v1ral

Is that block out on the market yet?


----------



## jase78

Ok finnaly got ek block for my 1080ti and built my loop. I went ahead and put the 240x vertically in the front and a second rad up top . So far have been running loop off and on for about 10 12 hours with no leaks .

Biggest question now is how to bleed out the air . I have a tube in the fillport sitting open at the top. Will running it nonstop eventually remove tje air. Ive tried tipping the case different ways but still have a ton of air .any advice ?

Heres a vid of what i mean .


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Ok finnaly got ek block for my 1080ti and built my loop. I went ahead and put the 240x vertically in the front and a second rad up top . So far have been running loop off and on for about 10 12 hours with no leaks .
> 
> Biggest question now is how to bleed out the air . I have a tube in the fillport sitting open at the top. Will running it nonstop eventually remove tje air. Ive tried tipping the case different ways but still have a ton of air .any advice ?
> 
> Heres a vid of what i mean .


You could use dishwasher soap (use the clear type without perfume). Add in a few drops and then fill up more water. Also use a funnel should make it a bit easier to fill up with water. Then let the pump run and start tilting your case from side to side. It's really not hard to get the air out of a H220/240-X, just needs a little patience and practice.


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Ok finnaly got ek block for my 1080ti and built my loop. I went ahead and put the 240x vertically in the front and a second rad up top . So far have been running loop off and on for about 10 12 hours with no leaks .
> 
> Biggest question now is how to bleed out the air . I have a tube in the fillport sitting open at the top. Will running it nonstop eventually remove tje air. Ive tried tipping the case different ways but still have a ton of air .any advice ?
> 
> Heres a vid of what i mean .


You're not going to burp a Swifttech without replacing trapped air with fluid. Due to the way the pump sits, the Swiftech isn't really designed to accommodate a half-filled res. Any large bubble left in the res will travel back thru the system when you tip it. The more fluid in the system, the easier it will be to burp any big bubbles out of it ( especially that second rad).

Replace your fill hose with the rad cap. Work the box around until a big bubble appears in the res. Replace that bubble with fluid. Repeat until you can't create sloshing sounds in either res.


----------



## jase78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beagle Box*
> 
> You're not going to burp a Swifttech without replacing trapped air with fluid. Due to the way the pump sits, the Swiftech isn't really designed to accommodate a half-filled res. Any large bubble left in the res will travel back thru the system when you tip it. The more fluid in the system, the easier it will be to burp any big bubbles out of it ( especially that second rad).
> 
> Replace your fill hose with the rad cap. Work the box around until a big bubble appears in the res. Replace that bubble with fluid. Repeat until you can't create sloshing sounds in either res.


Thankyou ! That worked precisely how you described . Still have a tiny bit left to get out but the pump is now quiet as can be!


----------



## Beagle Box

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jase78*
> 
> Thankyou ! That worked precisely how you described . Still have a tiny bit left to get out but the pump is now quiet as can be!


Victory!
Keep an eye on that bubble. It may still grow over the next couple of days. It's not a problem unless it grows large enough to move into the upper rad or can get sucked into the pump.

Glad to help.


----------



## shadow85

Hey guys,

I have had my H240-X in use since November 2014 and it has been running solidly since, still no issues at all. Has kept my OC'd i7-5930K @ 4.2 to 55-61 degC max.

Do I need to do any sort of maintenance on it by now? Like drain/refill, or clean or anything etc.?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have had my H240-X in use since November 2014 and it has been running solidly since, still no issues at all. Has kept my OC'd i7-5930K @ 4.2 to 55-61 degC max.
> 
> Do I need to do any sort of maintenance on it by now? Like drain/refill, or clean or anything etc.?


As long as your water level on your reservoir is good and you do not see any growth, you should be fine. Most AIO are guaranteed to run for 5yrs without needing maintenance though Swiftech only carry 3yrs warranty.


----------



## shadow85

Ok kool. Yea, no growth so far. And water level is high when the pump is turned off. But when in action I can see water level running around half way.

But still my temps are 61 degC on full load @ 4.2GHz. Not sure if that is good or not.


----------



## shadow85

Is there much performance difference between the H240-X and the H320 X2 or Prestige?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> Is there much performance difference between the H240-X and the H320 X2 or Prestige?


The larger the radiator the more optimal the cooling performance, though you will not see that much of a difference if any with just the CPU in the loop. The 320X2 Prestige comes with the newer Apogee waterblock and has better "reportred" performance that the Apogee block that comes with the H240-X. If you are just cooling your CPU the H240-X will do just fine, in fact it will do just fine with a GPU in the mix. But the newer X2 Prestige units have much nicer looking components (along with RGB lighting), so it all depends on your budget and the look you want in your system. That being said you can easily change out the tubing and fittings to whatever you prefer (that fits) in all the Swiftech AIOs (From the H140X to the H320 X2 Prestige).


----------



## shadow85

Yeah I just have the CPU in the loop atm. I was thinking about adding 2x GPUs but then I cbf adding all the extra waterblocks, tubes, radiators etc to cool 2 GPUs on water.

Since I only do mild overclocking I just bought 2x STRIX GPUs and that is enough cooling with 2050 boost and +100mem, 75-80 °C on max on hot days.

I don't really want to upgrade to a 320 X2 then face potential issues I never have with my current H240-X.


----------



## jprovido

hi! Does the H240x2 fit my NZXT s340? I have two 1080 FE's so my gpus are not that long. thanks! dealing with a faulty pump on my corsair h115i right now. I was looking for a worthy step up and found this swiftech cooler. TIA everyone


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am about to order the H140-X to cool my gpu. While I await delivery I hope can someone answer a question for me.

I have never had a watercooled gpu before and was wondering how I would hook up this unit to my board. Can I go without using the PWM splitter and connect it to the MB and/or the viedeo card itself? I am not sure if the video card has the right kind of headers for such a thing.....


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am about to order the H140-X to cool my gpu. While I await delivery I hope can someone answer a question for me.
> 
> I have never had a watercooled gpu before and was wondering how I would hook up this unit to my board. Can I go without using the PWM splitter and connect it to the MB and/or the viedeo card itself? I am not sure if the video card has the right kind of headers for such a thing.....


Not sure which GPU you have but if you have the small 4pin header on the card you can use one of these. http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-fan-adaptor/

I used one for a time on my MSI GTX 970 when I was using a NZXT Kraken cooler and it works very well at controlling PWM fans. If the H140-X comes with a fan splitter like the H220-X you could use this to control the PWM signal.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not sure which GPU you have but if you have the small 4pin header on the card you can use one of these. http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-fan-adaptor/
> 
> I used one for a time on my MSI GTX 970 when I was using a NZXT Kraken cooler and it works very well at controlling PWM fans. If the H140-X comes with a fan splitter like the H220-X you could use this to control the PWM signal.


Yeah I think I will need one of those.
Actually Swiftech has a specific splitter, but it is for use with the PWM spitter.......
Good Lord shipping from Swiftech is expensive for here in the states!

I'll message them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Not sure which GPU you have but if you have the small 4pin header on the card you can use one of these. http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-fan-adaptor/
> 
> I used one for a time on my MSI GTX 970 when I was using a NZXT Kraken cooler and it works very well at controlling PWM fans. If the H140-X comes with a fan splitter like the H220-X you could use this to control the PWM signal.


@Madmaxneo - this is the best way to go. But, as pointed out, make sure you use the PWM splitter and don't try powering the pump off the GPU header. This will also allow you to use Afterburner or the like to set up custom fan curves.

The other option would be a liquid temp sensor if your MB has a monitor for it, but that would get a lot more complex.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> @Madmaxneo - this is the best way to go. But, as pointed out, make sure you use the PWM splitter and don't try powering the pump off the GPU header. This will also allow you to use Afterburner or the like to set up custom fan curves.
> 
> The other option would be a liquid temp sensor if your MB has a monitor for it, but that would get a lot more complex.


So I will need to use the PWM splitter no matter what.... that really sucks because that splitter is just going to sit out in the open in clear view through the case window. That is if I can find a spot to put it, possibly right on top of the psu. I might be able to put it right below the rear fan (where the H140-X will go) if I can figure out how to mount it over the tube port hole. If you haven't checked out my PC in my sig I have a Phantom 820.

My MB has three unused temp sensor connections that coincide with 3 optional fan connections. None of which are being used. Is there a possibility I could use one of those with the pump and set up a custom fan curve. Would I then use a 4 pin splitter cable to connect the two fans directly to the card?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So I will need to use the PWM splitter no matter what.... that really sucks because that splitter is just going to sit out in the open in clear view through the case window. That is if I can find a spot to put it, possibly right on top of the psu. I might be able to put it right below the rear fan (where the H140-X will go) if I can figure out how to mount it over the tube port hole. If you haven't checked out my PC in my sig I have a Phantom 820.
> 
> My MB has three unused temp sensor connections that coincide with 3 optional fan connections. None of which are being used. Is there a possibility I could use one of those with the pump and set up a custom fan curve. Would I then use a 4 pin splitter cable to connect the two fans directly to the card?


You could use the motherboard headers. Use Speedfan and set up a curve using the GPU temps.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> You could use the motherboard headers. Use Speedfan and set up a curve using the GPU temps.


Yeah, I have speedfan though I have not used it in awhile because most of my fans are run through my Grid+ unit.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yeah, I have speedfan though I have not used it in awhile because most of my fans are run through my Grid+ unit.


Yeah if you don't want to use the PWN fan splitter it is the only way I can think of that will use the GPU temps to adjust the curve, I know my motherboard will only do CPU or motherboard temps.


----------



## mnemo_05

@Madmaxneo

I am using a Grid+ V2 for all my fans which includes the rad for my H75 that cools my GPU. This is the best set up I can find as it allows me to choose between the CPU and GPU temps for the fan curve on individual fans.








those Noctua Slim 92mm fans are also hooked up to the Grid+ V2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So I will need to use the PWM splitter no matter what.... that really sucks because that splitter is just going to sit out in the open in clear view through the case window. That is if I can find a spot to put it, possibly right on top of the psu. I might be able to put it right below the rear fan (where the H140-X will go) if I can figure out how to mount it over the tube port hole. If you haven't checked out my PC in my sig I have a Phantom 820.
> 
> My MB has three unused temp sensor connections that coincide with 3 optional fan connections. None of which are being used. Is there a possibility I could use one of those with the pump and set up a custom fan curve. Would I then use a 4 pin splitter cable to connect the two fans directly to the card?


You can use one of the simple PWM cable splitters (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35Y-000R-00001). This would allow you to control the pump by PWM while still getting power from the PSU without being large. You can use this in conjunction with the Gelid GPU adapter to have the pump and fan use that PWM signal. I'm not a fan of plugging the pump into the MB for power, and Swiftech tells you not to do it - the pump can draw too much.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You can use one of the simple PWM cable splitters (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35Y-000R-00001). This would allow you to control the pump by PWM while still getting power from the PSU without being large. You can use this in conjunction with the Gelid GPU adapter to have the pump and fan use that PWM signal. I'm not a fan of plugging the pump into the MB for power, and Swiftech tells you not to do it - the pump can draw too much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> @Madmaxneo
> 
> I am using a Grid+ V2 for all my fans which includes the rad for my H75 that cools my GPU. This is the best set up I can find as it allows me to choose between the CPU and GPU temps for the fan curve on individual fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those Noctua Slim 92mm fans are also hooked up to the Grid+ V2


I would need to use the two remaining ports on my Grid+ V2 unit to do this. I am somewhat hesitant on doing this. Can the Grid+ V2 handle the power draw of the pump for this? Of course I would still be connecting the unit via the SATA power connection.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I would need to use the two remaining ports on my Grid+ V2 unit to do this. I am somewhat hesitant on doing this. Can the Grid+ V2 handle the power draw of the pump for this? Of course I would still be connecting the unit via the SATA power connection.


It shouldn't, like you say the power to the pump is coming from a SATA connector the PWM is just for speed control.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I would need to use the two remaining ports on my Grid+ V2 unit to do this. I am somewhat hesitant on doing this. Can the Grid+ V2 handle the power draw of the pump for this? Of course I would still be connecting the unit via the SATA power connection.


The Grid+ V2 doesn't appear to have PWM. If that is the case, it can't control the pump at all. I still think your are best off splitting the PWM signal from the GPU for the fan and pump.


----------



## mnemo_05

The Grid+ V2 do not have PWM function. It adjusts the voltage of the individual fan header depending on the fan curve you set for them.

You should be able to control the pump, you just have to set the right curve you want. Personally if I am to use am AIO aside from Swiftech, I always run the pump at full just as what I did with the H75 cooling my 980 Ti

Just be sure to stay below 30W for everything you connect to it. Remember to consider the power draw when you are starting off the fan and pump, they will pull more power compared to when they are running.

As for example, a Nidec GT will pull 4.3W when starting up but only a little above 1W at full RPM.


----------



## JPDueholm

I have an old H320... Does it support socket 1151?

I was considering upgrading my system, but I like my old cooler.


----------



## mnemo_05

sockets 1150 1151 1155 1156 have the same mounting holes for coolers


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> *The Grid+ V2 do not have PWM function.* It adjusts the voltage of the individual fan header depending on the fan curve you set for them.
> 
> *You should be able to control the pump, you just have to set the right curve you want.* Personally if I am to use am AIO aside from Swiftech, I always run the pump at full just as what I did with the H75 cooling my 980 Ti
> 
> Just be sure to stay below 30W for everything you connect to it. Remember to consider the power draw when you are starting off the fan and pump, they will pull more power compared to when they are running.
> 
> As for example, a Nidec GT will pull 4.3W when starting up but only a little above 1W at full RPM.


The Swiftech pump is made to have a constant 12V with speed control by PWM. It is not voltage controlled. Attempting to run it at less than 12V will damage the pump. Swiftech has stated this over and over again, and we have seen it happen many times. *When you try to use components in a way they were not intended or designed for, they break.*


----------



## VSG

Listen to ^this guy, he's had more experience with Swiftech components than most of us combined.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Grid+ V2 doesn't appear to have PWM. If that is the case, it can't control the pump at all. I still think your are best off splitting the PWM signal from the GPU for the fan and pump.


I wasn't sure the mini 4pin connector on the GPU could handle the pump much less the pump and the fan. If this will work then all is perfect. But does the EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 control the fans through pwm signal or voltage? I assume it is through PWM signal (as I feel you know what you are talking about) but it is better to ask than not to......


----------



## mnemo_05

is that so? time to change my settings then lmao

you learn something new everyday


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wasn't sure the mini 4pin connector on the GPU could handle the pump much less the pump and the fan. If this will work then all is perfect. But does the EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 control the fans through pwm signal or voltage? I assume it is through PWM signal (as I feel you know what you are talking about) but it is better to ask than not to......


To my knowledge, the EVGA 1070 has a PWM header. I am not 100% sure on that, though. I was going to suggest trying the EVGA forums, but I see you beat me to it. You can also call their tech support and get an immediate answer.

Do not try to power the pump from the header. I wouldn't even power the fan from the header. That is why I recommended the second cable PWM splitter. You can then use the PWM signal from the GPU, while drawing power directly from the PSU.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> To my knowledge, the EVGA 1070 has a PWM header. I am not 100% sure on that, though. I was going to suggest trying the EVGA forums, but I see you beat me to it. You can also call their tech support and get an immediate answer.
> 
> Do not try to power the pump from the header. I wouldn't even power the fan from the header. That is why I recommended the second cable PWM splitter. You can then use the PWM signal from the GPU, while drawing power directly from the PSU.


I got a response from EVGA and they say it is a mini header. They also sent me a link to the manual for their Hybrid cooler to help me with the connections but they also recommend contacting Swiftech support on connecting the pump (the fan can connect to the GPU). I have emailed Swiftech twice and still no response. I also posted a message on their forums and no one has responded yet as far as I know. If I do not hear anything I will probably just connect the pumps PWM header to the MB and see how that goes. Of course I will still use the SATA power connection to power the pump. Though I do not think I will be connecting the unit LED.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I got a response from EVGA and they say it is a mini header. They also sent me a link to the manual for their Hybrid cooler to help me with the connections but they also recommend contacting Swiftech support on connecting the pump (the fan can connect to the GPU). I have emailed Swiftech twice and still no response. I also posted a message on their forums and no one has responded yet as far as I know. If I do not hear anything I will probably just connect the pumps PWM header to the MB and see how that goes. Of course I will still use the SATA power connection to power the pump. Though I do not think I will be connecting the unit LED.


How many wires are on the Swiftech PWM? Is it two or four? I have totally forgotten and don't have one handy to look.if it is only two, it doesn't draw power, only PWM signal in which case you have no worries connecting to the GPU header.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> How many wires are on the Swiftech PWM? Is it two or four? I have totally forgotten and don't have one handy to look.if it is only two, it doesn't draw power, only PWM signal in which case you have no worries connecting to the GPU header.


Good observation! There are only two wires on the pump PWM and 4 on the fan. So this will work just fine!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Leak testing now. I realized a few things putting this together so far:
I forgot to get the special adapters for the swiftech AIO so I could use the fittings I already have. I had to use the "O" clamp type they already have on the unit. So far they work good. You can't see them so I'll probably just leave them be.
I need another SATA power cable. I had to take the one off the OC panel for my board. I haven't really used it in awhile so not a big deal right now.
The backplate from V1Tech uses magnets to attach to the graphics card and the screws that came with the Heatkiller waterblock are not magnetic... so I gotta figure something out.......
The annoying white LED light on the swiftech AIO is powered by SATA so it remains on for now.

I "suck again" at cable management!

The SATA connection for pump is only for PWM signals, so there are only two connections. The Noctua PWM splitter cables I got have only one full PWM connection (all 4 pins) and the other one is only 3 pins but it's missing one of the two that the pump PWM cable has.....

So it looks like I have to connect it to the MB for now.

Edit:
Update!
I got it all up and running and decided to run some tests. I first ran Heaven and it ran hot from what I have heard. I hit a high of 51 deg. Then when I closed the program down the lowest it went was like 42 deg. So I decided to play with the fan curve some. As I was doing that I noticed that no matter how high I set the fan curve the fan did not get any louder. So I investigated. The reason for the fan not getting any louder was because it was not running at all. Either I messed up the wire to the adapter and there is no signal or both the pump and the fan was to much for the board. So I connected both to the MB.

I ran both Heaven and Valley and it hit a high of about 41 deg. That is with the fan and pump at idle speeds the whole time, I am assuming because they are connected to the MB and not the card. I am getting ready to run Firestrike and will post again.
Edit 2: I ran both Heaven and Valley in extreme. But then I plugged only the fan into the card and it worked. So I ran both programs again and then Firestrike. So far my temps hit no higher than about 41 deg on the card. The pump is still connected to the MB though.....


----------



## Luckbad

I've been toying with the idea of going full water after many years of not doing so.

I currently have an NZXT Kraken x61 for my CPU and it works great, but I want to get my 1080 Ti under water (non-SLI). I'll likely end up grabbing EKWB blocks for an EVGA FTW3 since Swiftech only makes the FE blocks.

I'm trying to decide on what I should get. My priorities are:

1) Quiet - This is paramount
2) Cooling - I overclock and want to keep temperatures low, especially for the GPU since they throttle at a bunch of different points now
3) Effort - Hoping not to have to spend days working on this in the first go
4) Price - I'll get whatever's good

I'm trying to decide on a bunch of things:

a) Should I run two loops? One for CPU and One for GPU. I get 1 or 2 graphics cards a year and there is generally a ~2 year gap between CPUs, so it would be nice to keep them separate.
b) Should I ditch the Kraken or keep it? It works great for the CPU. Maybe I should dip my toe in the water (yeah, intended) and start with a GPU-only loop.

I'm currently assuming the answers are to run two loops and keep the Kraken for now since it works.

I have a Fractal R5 case that I plant to continue using. It's currently loaded with Cougar fans and a nice controller to keep the computer nearly silent when idle.

Some options I'm considering if I stick with the idea of keeping the Kraken and running a dedicated loop for my GPU:

I) H240 X2 Prestige in the front of the case. Pack up the CPU block and connect it to the GPU instead.
II) H140-X as a rear exhaust connected to the GPU instead of CPU.
III) H140-X in the rear still plus a secondary 120mm radiator just above it. My Kraken is as far forward as it can go, so there's a 140mm spot behind it still (that I doubt can handle a 140mm rad, but I might be able to get a 120mm one in there).
IV) Independent pump, reservoir, and radiator instead of the integrated stuff. All of my hard drive and optical drive cages are gone so I have plenty of room for it. I could do a dual bay reservoir and move my Kraken back a bit to make room or find a spot for one of those tubes (easiest on top of the MCP35X or MCP50X?)

Anyway, I'm probably leaving something out and will happily provide more info.

Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!

Fractal R5 water cooling compatibility:

Front - 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators of all thicknesses (requires removal of drive bays) [drive bays already removed]
Top - 420, 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators. (A thickness limitation of 55mm for both radiator + fan applies on 420, 280 and 140 mm radiators) (420 and 360 mm radiators require removal of the ODD bay) [ODD bay is already removed]
Bottom - 120 or 240 mm radiator (Use of radiators in the bottom position limits the PSU length to 165 mm) [My PSU is too big for a 240mm on the bottom]
Rear - 120 or 140 mm radiator

Kraken currently occupying the top toward the front of the case.


----------



## ben805

Has anybody added a 2nd radiator to the H220/240/320 loop? what's the outcome if any improvement to be had?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben805*
> 
> Has anybody added a 2nd radiator to the H220/240/320 loop? what's the outcome if any improvement to be had?


I added a 240mm radiator to my H220-X, wasn't a huge improvement about 5 - 7C for me.


----------



## ben805

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I added a 240mm radiator to my H220-X, wasn't a huge improvement about 5 - 7C for me.


Dang...i was hoping 10C drop LOL Do you have additional heat load like GPU being added to it after adding the 2nd radiator to the loop?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben805*
> 
> Dang...i was hoping 10C drop LOL Do you have additional heat load like GPU being added to it after adding the 2nd radiator to the loop?


No the GPU was already added. The second rad I added was used as intake at the front and the top rad was exhaust. I think the hot air coming into the case from the front rad was hurting. If I had been able to run both rads as exhaust with a good supply of cool intake air I think I would have gotten much better results.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I added a 240mm radiator to my H220-X, wasn't a huge improvement about 5 - 7C for me.


5-7C difference in liquid temp? CPU temp? GPU temp?


----------



## ben805

My 5820K generate a lot of heat during OCCT(older version 4.4.2 ) stress test at 4.5Ghz @1.35v, the H240x2 with Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm fans at max speed managed to keep the load temperature in the high 80s with 21C ambient. I'm debating if adding an extra radiator is going to make big enough improvement to justify the time and cost, i was hoping for a linear gain, with an additional of a single140mm to reduce ~10C on CPU underload. Would adding a 2nd bigger radiator like 280 or 360mm able to keep underload further down to 60s?


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 5-7C difference in liquid temp? CPU temp? GPU temp?


CPU temps.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> I've been toying with the idea of going full water after many years of not doing so.
> 
> I currently have an NZXT Kraken x61 for my CPU and it works great, but I want to get my 1080 Ti under water (non-SLI). I'll likely end up grabbing EKWB blocks for an EVGA FTW3 since Swiftech only makes the FE blocks.
> 
> I'm trying to decide on what I should get. My priorities are:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Quiet - This is paramount
> 2) Cooling - I overclock and want to keep temperatures low, especially for the GPU since they throttle at a bunch of different points now
> 3) Effort - Hoping not to have to spend days working on this in the first go
> 4) Price - I'll get whatever's good
> 
> I'm trying to decide on a bunch of things:
> 
> a) Should I run two loops? One for CPU and One for GPU. I get 1 or 2 graphics cards a year and there is generally a ~2 year gap between CPUs, so it would be nice to keep them separate.
> b) Should I ditch the Kraken or keep it? It works great for the CPU. Maybe I should dip my toe in the water (yeah, intended) and start with a GPU-only loop.
> 
> I'm currently assuming the answers are to run two loops and keep the Kraken for now since it works.
> 
> I have a Fractal R5 case that I plant to continue using. It's currently loaded with Cougar fans and a nice controller to keep the computer nearly silent when idle.
> 
> Some options I'm considering if I stick with the idea of keeping the Kraken and running a dedicated loop for my GPU:
> 
> I) H240 X2 Prestige in the front of the case. Pack up the CPU block and connect it to the GPU instead.
> II) H140-X as a rear exhaust connected to the GPU instead of CPU.
> III) H140-X in the rear still plus a secondary 120mm radiator just above it. My Kraken is as far forward as it can go, so there's a 140mm spot behind it still (that I doubt can handle a 140mm rad, but I might be able to get a 120mm one in there).
> IV) Independent pump, reservoir, and radiator instead of the integrated stuff. All of my hard drive and optical drive cages are gone so I have plenty of room for it. I could do a dual bay reservoir and move my Kraken back a bit to make room or find a spot for one of those tubes (easiest on top of the MCP35X or MCP50X?)
> 
> Anyway, I'm probably leaving something out and will happily provide more info.
> 
> Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> Fractal R5 water cooling compatibility:
> 
> Front - 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators of all thicknesses (requires removal of drive bays) [drive bays already removed]
> Top - 420, 360, 280, 240, 140 and 120 mm radiators. (A thickness limitation of 55mm for both radiator + fan applies on 420, 280 and 140 mm radiators) (420 and 360 mm radiators require removal of the ODD bay) [ODD bay is already removed]
> Bottom - 120 or 240 mm radiator (Use of radiators in the bottom position limits the PSU length to 165 mm) [My PSU is too big for a 240mm on the bottom]
> Rear - 120 or 140 mm radiator
> 
> Kraken currently occupying the top toward the front of the case.


I still consider myself a noob at this but I just recently added a H140-X as a separate loop just for my GPU. Before I make my recommendations note that you will have to get a new waterblock everytime you get a new GPU as waterblocks are not universal. That is unless you get the same reference model each time.
Since you change out GPUs so frequently I would recommend one of two options.
The first is to obviously get a H140-x and mount it at the back of you case like I did and then directly the your GPU(s). The second option is to use only a single AIO and install quick disconnects to your GPU so that you can easily change them out as often as you need to. But I think you would be better suited if you were to purchase a Swiftech H320-X2 to use with both your CPU and GPU(s) as it can handle all that from what I have read on here and in other forums.

Here are a couple of pics of my system with a H240-X in the top and a H140-X in the rear of the case connected to my GPU. Note that I put the fan for the H140-X on the outside of the case and disabled the LED light.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I have both my Hue+ unit running (one pic it's cycled on blue and the other it's on red) along with the UV lights I installed. Note the tubing and the coils around the CPU tubing both remain essentially the same color between the pics, this is the effect from the UV lights on the UV reactive tubing and coils.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I still consider myself a noob at this but I just recently added a H140-X as a separate loop just for my GPU. Before I make my recommendations note that you will have to get a new waterblock everytime you get a new GPU as waterblocks are not universal. That is unless you get the same reference model each time.
> Since you change out GPUs so frequently I would recommend one of two options.
> The first is to obviously get a H140-x and mount it at the back of you case like I did and then directly the your GPU(s). The second option is to use only a single AIO and install quick disconnects to your GPU so that you can easily change them out as often as you need to. But I think you would be better suited if you were to purchase a Swiftech H320-X2 to use with both your CPU and GPU(s) as it can handle all that from what I have read on here and in other forums.
> 
> Here are a couple of pics of my system with a H240-X in the top and a H140-X in the rear of the case connected to my GPU. Note that I put the fan for the H140-X on the outside of the case and disabled the LED light.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have both my Hue+ unit running (one pic it's cycled on blue and the other it's on red) along with the UV lights I installed. Note the tubing and the coils around the CPU tubing both remain essentially the same color between the pics, this is the effect from the UV lights on the UV reactive tubing and coils.


Looks good, how is the H140-X working our for you?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> Looks good, how is the H140-X working our for you?


Thanks! It is working great, as expected.
I still have some work to do in this case to clean it up some. I have some cable management to handle (I just had to wait for some extension cables to come in) and I plan on covering the outside of the case with some carbon fiber patterned vinyl. I also plan on using some vinyl inside the case but am unsure of what colors to use. I am going for a Dark Knight look so some of the carbon fiber stuff and maybe some dark blues and grays.....
I also have some mirrored vinyl but am not sure if it would look right in this case.

I do want to add some UV reactive coils around the GPU tubing but not sure which color. I was thinking green since I have an nvidia card but that might clash with the rest of the theme.
What do you people think?


----------



## kfxsti

I know this has probably been asked.. but say I want to get rid of the rad and res on my prestige . And add a res with the pump that came with the prestige .. how do I go about doing this? I would love to use this extra 360 rad I have laying here instead of the 240 that all this is attached to. Lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I know this has probably been asked.. but say I want to get rid of the rad and res on my prestige . And add a res with the pump that came with the prestige .. how do I go about doing this? I would love to use this extra 360 rad I have laying here instead of the 240 that all this is attached to. Lol


Definitely a question for Swiftech customer service. I would imagine that you could order an MCP50X pump top from them, and that should take care of it.


----------



## mnemo_05

why get a prestige for its pump? better sell it off and then get a pump/res combo that suits your need

im still torn whether to get a block for my 980ti and add it to my h220x2 loop plus an additional 120 rad, is it still worth it at this point? cooling my 980ti at the moment with a g10+h75 combo


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> why get a prestige for its pump? better sell it off and then get a pump/res combo that suits your need
> 
> im still torn whether to get a block for my 980ti and add it to my h220x2 loop plus an additional 120 rad, is it still worth it at this point? cooling my 980ti at the moment with a g10+h75 combo


I didn't buy it for the pump. Have had it for a little while now and want to try new things


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> im still torn whether to get a block for my 980ti and add it to my h220x2 loop plus an additional 120 rad, is it still worth it at this point? cooling my 980ti at the moment with a g10+h75 combo


Is it worth it? Well.....you would get to see why people who use actual blocks find the CLC ghetto rig to be a downgrade from air. And your ears would thank you. And your VRM will love you for it. And your case will look a lot better. And....and....I could go on all day. But, if you are planning to replace the 980Ti in the near future, wait until you get the new card so you aren't spending money on a short term block.


----------



## Xaeos

I recently set about installing my Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige and have run into a snag or two - perhaps someone here has some advice. If I am correct, there are two ways to mount the radiator (top mount). One is where you use the short, countersunk head screws to screw from the top of the case or other mounting location into the "top holes" on the fans (because there are already screws in the lower holes which are securing the fans to the radiator itself - this is how it came out of the box), right? The other is to unscrew the fans from the radiator, and then place the fans on top of the case mount, and the radiator below, using the long screws to secure all three parts together Fan > Case/Mount Point > Radiator , correct? I'm fairly certain I need to use the latter option as my mounting bracket doesn't fit the small countersunk screws used in the first method as they are too wide to fit.

Thus, this necessitates unscrewing the Noiseblocker fans from the radiator itself and that is my first issue - they seem to be screwed in so tightly that I don't have a screwdriver that will both fit in the space and work. How did anyone else unscrew the NB fans that are installed on their X2 by default? So far it seems that any larger screwdrivers I could use to get more torque are too wide to fit through the open top hole of the fan that is above the screw. Likewise, some of the smaller ones I have that do fit don't have the torque to adjust it. The only other thing I can think of is some sort of 90 degree angle attachment, but I don't have one currently that is narrow enough to fit between the two fan mountings. So anyone else that had to decouple the NB fans from the X2 rad, what sort of tool did you use and if possible, what size was it? In case I have to buy something new.

Next, with regards to the tubing and the included dye.... If I am correct, the Swiftech X2 Prestige series don't use regular PVC but instead are using Mayhems Ultra Clear plasticizer-free tubing. Does this mean that it isn't likely to get gunked up and/or even stained by the included Mayhems dyes? Years ago I recall how using dye was considered verboten in a system with soft tubing, especially one that wasn't to be cleaned/drained frequently, as it would result in stained tube or gunk/degradation. My initial thought was to use my X2 Prestige without any dye for this reason, but since we have so many users here, thought I'd ask - Did you use the dye and if so how has your system held up with regards to the aforementioned issues? What color dye did you choose? Did anyone mix them? Did you use the matching lighting color or did using a different one create another effect?

Lastly, mounting the CPU block - in my case, on a X99 Socket 2011-3 board r. Does it matter if the block is positioned so that the inlet/outlet are positioned "vertically" versus "horizontally"? I have some Prolimatech PK-3 thermal interface material I was planning on using (though I have considered grabbing some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) and I was wondering which application style worked best for the X2's CPU block and a Socket 2011-3 , 8-core processor? Since unlike many CLC and AIOs, the X2 doesn't come with TIM pre-applied to the block, I'll need to manually apply it to the CPU. Should I use the traditional "blob of TIM the size of a pea, BB or something similar" method on the CPU heatspreader, then lowering the CPU block down upon it? This seems to be indicated by the Swiftech manual, but I wanted to ensure I wasn't missing anything .

Thanks!


----------



## navit

I can answer the dye question. I have had mine since the day they came out and I used the blue dye. I have had zero issues with build up of any gunk in the tube.
As far as mixing dyes I have considered this by adding a drop or two of the red to darken the blue. I find it a little light in the tubes on its own but I also have blue led strips so that helps.
I would post a pic but I am on my work computer. Word to the wise if your going to mix dyes brush up on your color theory. Once its in there its in there so understand how colors react with each other to create other colors.


----------



## OdinValk

Within the last 30min noticed a ticking and or clicking noise coming from my H220x2. As the cooler is less than 6 months old, this is rather alarming. Any ideas what it might be? It's not ran 24hrs a day, during the week just a few hours and maybe 12-16hrs on weekends.


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Within the last 30min noticed a ticking and or clicking noise coming from my H220x2. As the cooler is less than 6 months old, this is rather alarming. Any ideas what it might be? It's not ran 24hrs a day, during the week just a few hours and maybe 12-16hrs on weekends.


You need to first determine whether it's a fan or the pump. I would disconnect the fans first. If it still clicks try changing the pump speed to see if that helps.


----------



## v1ral

Any etailers sellimg the g1/4 adapter fitting?
Also any word on the swiftech water block that was announced with the X2?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Any etailers sellimg the g1/4 adapter fitting?
> Also any word on the swiftech water block that was announced with the X2?


I second this!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Any etailers sellimg the g1/4 adapter fitting?
> Also any word on the swiftech water block that was announced with the X2?


Sounds like a question for Swiftech customer support.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Any etailers sellimg the g1/4 adapter fitting?
> Also any word on the swiftech water block that was announced with the X2?


I think I have an extra one. I'll look for it when I get an change...


----------



## Aussie Alex

What happens when the pump in my H240X reaches its end of life?
Can it be replaced?
Will I be able to remove the pump and use the old radiator as a stand alone radiator?
Just curious...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> What happens when the pump in my H240X reaches its end of life?
> Can it be replaced?
> Will I be able to remove the pump and use the old radiator as a stand alone radiator?
> Just curious...


Yes it an be replaced with the same pump found on the Swiftech website, and I think also the MCP50X. I believe you can only use the Swiftech pumps because of specific designs....


----------



## OdinValk

I just noticed something on my H220x2. In the center of my CPU block there is a light under the Swiftech emblem, its currently orange. Is there any significance to that? or is it always that color?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I just noticed something on my H220x2. In the center of my CPU block there is a light under the Swiftech emblem, its currently orange. Is there any significance to that? or is it always that color?


nothing but bling really







you can change the colour by pressing that little switch on the fan hub AFAIK. I never really used the LEDs on my h220x2 as my case do not have any window =)


----------



## OdinValk

Yea, I knew i could change the color. I really don't like the LEDs they put in it... so I normally keep them turned off, I had just never seen the orange light and was curious.


----------



## Xaeos

I've recently set up a Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige to cool my octa-core X99 build based on the Asus ROG Rampage V Edition 10. These Asus ROG boards have lots of onboard fan connectors including a CPU Fan, CPU Optional, and Water Pump connector. Some of these can be visible on the diagram here - https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-V-EDITION-10/overview/ - if you press the "Advanced Fan Controls" icon in the "OC Zone" section of the page.

The instructions for the H320 X2 Prestige mentions connecting its main connector (which has it seems, 2 wires ) should be connected to the CPU Fan header, yet I wonder...would it work to connect it to the Water Pump instead? Swiftech obviously can't count on every user having a mobo with a specific Water Pump header, so it makes sense for it to be CPU Fan, given that everyone has one of those. The Asus page notes the Water Pump header to be for "Full control of PWM or DC water pumps, perfect for both custom and self-contained cooling setups." so it seems a good idea, but I just thought I'd ask here if it was okay to basically connect it there or if there was a specific reason to use CPU Fan instead. Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaeos*
> 
> I've recently set up a Swiftech H320-X2 Prestige to cool my octa-core X99 build based on the Asus ROG Rampage V Edition 10. These Asus ROG boards have lots of onboard fan connectors including a CPU Fan, CPU Optional, and Water Pump connector. Some of these can be visible on the diagram here - https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-RAMPAGE-V-EDITION-10/overview/ - if you press the "Advanced Fan Controls" icon in the "OC Zone" section of the page.
> 
> The instructions for the H320 X2 Prestige mentions connecting its main connector (which has it seems, 2 wires ) should be connected to the CPU Fan header, yet I wonder...would it work to connect it to the Water Pump instead? Swiftech obviously can't count on every user having a mobo with a specific Water Pump header, so it makes sense for it to be CPU Fan, given that everyone has one of those. The Asus page notes the Water Pump header to be for "Full control of PWM or DC water pumps, perfect for both custom and self-contained cooling setups." so it seems a good idea, but I just thought I'd ask here if it was okay to basically connect it there or if there was a specific reason to use CPU Fan instead. Thanks!


As long as you have a PWM signal that is easily configurable, the label doesn't matter.


----------



## Xaeos

All right. That shouldn't be much of an issue - all of these are 4-pin PWM/DC auto detecting headers on the RVE10. Some do have different parameters (ie one is a high amperage header capable of handling up to 3A of fans, CPU_Fan header is 1A max which I think is the standard for most of the other headers etc), so I just wanted to be sure that it would not be an issue.

I was hoping I could run into someone who had run their Swiftech AIO off a secondary header like this and ended up leaving the CPU_Fan blank, so I could confirm that the mobo wouldn't freak out because there was ostensibly no CPU fan as far as it knew... but I suppose that would be a better question for someone familiar with the motherboard.

Thanks!

Of course any other input and experiences are welcome.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaeos*
> 
> All right. That shouldn't be much of an issue - all of these are 4-pin PWM/DC auto detecting headers on the RVE10. Some do have different parameters (ie one is a high amperage header capable of handling up to 3A of fans, CPU_Fan header is 1A max which I think is the standard for most of the other headers etc), so I just wanted to be sure that it would not be an issue.
> 
> I was hoping I could run into someone who had run their Swiftech AIO off a secondary header like this and ended up leaving the CPU_Fan blank, so I could confirm that the mobo wouldn't freak out because there was ostensibly no CPU fan as far as it knew... but I suppose that would be a better question for someone familiar with the motherboard.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Of course any other input and experiences are welcome.


My situation is a bit different than yours but this is what I have done.
I have a RIVBE and am using both a H240-X (CPU) and a H140-X (GPU). The H240-X runs exactly as the Swiftech wants it to through their special header. The H140-X fan is connected to the GPU and the pump 4pin header is connected to the MB. It all runs good as is and my GPU temps stay below 45 deg no matter what I throw at it.


----------



## PuppyLover

Hi I have a question about this cooler. is this thing actually reliable? I've been browsing this group and it seems like a lot of people have problems with this cooler. Does tubing actually cloud up and turn yellow within a month? or perhaps these things are user errors? and whats the likely hood of the unit leaking?
I 'm using a noctua cooler with asus x99 motherboard Sabertooth with a 5820k. this cooler should be compatible right ?


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuppyLover*
> 
> Hi I have a question about this cooler. is this thing actually reliable? I've been browsing this group and it seems like a lot of people have problems with this cooler. Does tubing actually cloud up and turn yellow within a month? or perhaps these things are user errors? and whats the likely hood of the unit leaking?
> I 'm using a noctua cooler with asus x99 motherboard Sabertooth with a 5820k. this cooler should be compatible right ?


I have been using the H220x since 2014 and never had a problem. The new kits use the same pump as my kit so I can tell you it very durable. All soft tubing will discolor over time. Whether the new kits discolor quickly I don' know. I replaced all the hoses with LRT Advanced.
Yes it is compatible.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuppyLover*
> 
> Hi I have a question about this cooler. is this thing actually reliable? I've been browsing this group and it seems like a lot of people have problems with this cooler. Does tubing actually cloud up and turn yellow within a month? or perhaps these things are user errors? and whats the likely hood of the unit leaking?
> I 'm using a noctua cooler with asus x99 motherboard Sabertooth with a 5820k. this cooler should be compatible right ?


I am not sure which "cooler" you are asking about but any of the watercoolers that are mentioned here will be compatible with your x99 MB as long as you get the correct mounting hardware.
I have both a H140-X and a H240-X and both are very reliable AIO's. I have changed the tubing out to something more inline with my build (UV reactive brilliant blue) on both units. The H240-X is cooling my CPU and the H140-X is cooling my GPU.


----------



## PuppyLover

Hmm, Do I have to worry about fittings and water leaking? it seems like this issue was pretty old, they prolly updated this by now... I was talkimg about the H220x2 btw. It's a pretty cooler but I've been told swiftech quality is iffy compared to corsair. I'm honestly pretty new to this stuff so Sorry if I sound like a dumbo lool.
How hard is it to change the tubing? and refilling this? Wouldn't it be hard to get the water down to the block without having to turn on the pump and risk destroying the pump ? My options are the H220X2, 320X2 or the NZXT offering X62


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuppyLover*
> 
> Hi I have a question about this cooler. is this thing actually reliable? I've been browsing this group and it seems like a lot of people have problems with this cooler. Does tubing actually cloud up and turn yellow within a month? or perhaps these things are user errors? and whats the likely hood of the unit leaking?
> I 'm using a noctua cooler with asus x99 motherboard Sabertooth with a 5820k. this cooler should be compatible right ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuppyLover*
> 
> Hmm, Do I have to worry about fittings and water leaking? it seems like this issue was pretty old, they prolly updated this by now... I was talkimg about the H220x2 btw. It's a pretty cooler but I've been told swiftech quality is iffy compared to corsair. I'm honestly pretty new to this stuff so Sorry if I sound like a dumbo lool.
> How hard is it to change the tubing? and refilling this? Wouldn't it be hard to get the water down to the block without having to turn on the pump and risk destroying the pump ? My options are the H220X2, 320X2 or the NZXT offering X62


Swiftech AIO are very reliable, I believe the most reliable being made today. But keep in mind water cooling is much more complicated than air cooling and the more parts (both moving and stationary), the more there are thing that potentially might go wrong. Therefore even the most dependable water cooling system is gong to have more issues than quality air coolers do.

Keep in mind that most computer people do not use forums, and those that do post on forums like this one often only do it because they are having a problem .. or when researching a product. Our group is a very small percentage of computer users, and of course people will post up with problems but usually do not when all is well.


----------



## rjeftw

A handful of questions, I have been considering going with custom watercooling setup for my Ryzen 1700 + 1080Ti. Would the 240X/320X handle both of these with reasonable temps or would I be better off adding in another radiator help? Maybe a crossflow 240/280 or 360 depending on what setup I started with. Would mounting these vertically be an issue that's another 320X vs. 240X question as well.

Can't really think of anything else off the top of my head, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Wam7

Happy Swiftech H240-X (and H220-X) owner here. They both have the space to run with 3 fans instead of the normal 2. Has anybody tried using a 3rd fan and did they notice anything in the way of a temperature difference?


----------



## Streetdragon

i tried with my 240-x 3 140mmfans.
the temp dropt was MAYBE 1-2C° but that could be in the margin of error.

cahnging the stock 140 fans with better one would be better


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> A handful of questions, I have been considering going with custom watercooling setup for my Ryzen 1700 + 1080Ti. Would the 240X/320X handle both of these with reasonable temps or would I be better off adding in another radiator help? Maybe a crossflow 240/280 or 360 depending on what setup I started with. Would mounting these vertically be an issue that's another 320X vs. 240X question as well.
> 
> Can't really think of anything else off the top of my head, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!


If you're not looking for sick overclocks then the 320X would do just fine. You could always add another rad in later if you wanted to!


----------



## FastEddieNYC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Happy Swiftech H240-X (and H220-X) owner here. They both have the space to run with 3 fans instead of the normal 2. Has anybody tried using a 3rd fan and did they notice anything in the way of a temperature difference?


It depends how much heat load you have. With a 4 core(88tdp) 1~2C but with higher loads you can see larger increase because the temp delta is higher between the ambient and water temp.


----------



## rjeftw

So adding a radiator in would be more ideal? I'm not sure if my case would do the 320x and my 1080ti... Might have to research that. Is the pump on these strong enough for a full loop adding in another radiator and gpu block? Would I need another res?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> If you're not looking for sick overclocks then the 320X would do just fine. You could always add another rad in later if you wanted to!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> If you're not looking for sick overclocks then the 320X would do just fine. You could always add another rad in later if you wanted to!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> So adding a radiator in would be more ideal? I'm not sure if my case would do the 320x and my 1080ti... Might have to research that. Is the pump on these strong enough for a full loop adding in another radiator and gpu block? Would I need another res?


The pump was designed specifically to be able to work efficiently with an added GPU block and rad, no worries there. Do you *need* another res? Well, no.....but it would make filling and bleeding a whole lot easier.


----------



## mnemo_05

im expanding my h220-x2 on my next gpu for sure. i dont see the point adding my 980ti to my loop at this stage. unless of course i find a really good deal on a waterblock


----------



## rjeftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The pump was designed specifically to be able to work efficiently with an added GPU block and rad, no worries there. Do you *need* another res? Well, no.....but it would make filling and bleeding a whole lot easier.


Good to know... Only thing that bums me out is GPU block costs lol.


----------



## doyll

Not only GPU waterblock cost, but the fact they are usually only compatible with a few specific GPUs .. often only one GPU.


----------



## rjeftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not only GPU waterblock cost, but the fact they are usually only compatible with a few specific GPUs .. often only one GPU.


I guess its not the worst. 980Ti lasted me about 2 years. Moved to 1080Ti. Hoping to do the same with this one.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> Good to know... Only thing that bums me out is GPU block costs lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not only GPU waterblock cost, but the fact they are usually only compatible with a few specific GPUs .. often only one GPU.


Yeah, exactly. $100 give or take $25 is a chunk to spend on something that gets replaced potentially every couple years. I typically keep a GPU for 3-5 years but even still. If I got a block for a GPU, I'd have to do it right when I bought the card to make it worth it. Like Ciantarlo said, the pump is quite powerful, so it can run multiple blocks and rads without much problem. Also, you could add another res, but with a good fill line / port you wouldn't really need to.









I've been toying with the idea of getting back into custom water, making my own simple loop with a Swiftech Apogee Drive II and a HardwareLabs 360GTS, no res. I'd use a T-fitting and create a fill line for filling / bleeding / draining. In-so-far I'm looking at about $400 including shipping... it's something I'm considering, especially if I can find a scratch & dent HWLabs rad for a great price







I might throw an Alphacool GPU block on my Fury. We'll see, we'll see.


----------



## Mega Man

Why, they are cheap


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why, they are cheap


To whom are you asking this question?


----------



## Mega Man

You, why go through all that. You can price together a nice loop for less then that, and you dont have to use alphacool


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You, why go through all that. You can price together a nice loop for less then that, and you dont have to use alphacool


The Alphacool GPU block is just an idea, since it costs extra I most likely won't do it. Especially since my Fury is an older card, even though it's new to me, it isn't worth putting under water. The NITRO+ cooler on it is pretty great already.

My focus on this loop would be minimal components, hence the pump / cpu block combo and a rad. Other than that, it's some fittings and that's it. Just an idea I'm toying with, I have a Le Grand Macho which is fantastic so I'm not *needing* better cooling. Just wondering how simple and powerful a loop I can make, experimentation really. What would you do for a simple, cost-effective loop?


----------



## SDBolts619

Went looking at the Swiftech site - totally different setups than my original H220. Can the new radiators be bottom mounted the way my H220 is?



On a side note - decided since I was changing out my video card this weekend to check the coolant level (one downside to being bottom mounted - you can't open up the radiator without taking it out of the machine and holding it up - I was pretty amazed to find that after a couple of years with no service, the system was only down about 20ml of coolant!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You, why go through all that. You can price together a nice loop for less then that, and you dont have to use alphacool
> 
> 
> 
> The Alphacool GPU block is just an idea, since it costs extra I most likely won't do it. Especially since my Fury is an older card, even though it's new to me, it isn't worth putting under water. The NITRO+ cooler on it is pretty great already.
> 
> My focus on this loop would be minimal components, hence the pump / cpu block combo and a rad. Other than that, it's some fittings and that's it. Just an idea I'm toying with, I have a Le Grand Macho which is fantastic so I'm not *needing* better cooling. Just wondering how simple and powerful a loop I can make, experimentation really. What would you do for a simple, cost-effective loop?
Click to expand...

i would look at a normal loop. far far cheaper IMO/IME

as to the alphacool thing check this out and decide if it is worth buying from them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Went looking at the Swiftech site - totally different setups than my original H220. Can the new radiators be bottom mounted the way my H220 is?
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note - decided since I was changing out my video card this weekend to check the coolant level (one downside to being bottom mounted - you can't open up the radiator without taking it out of the machine and holding it up - I was pretty amazed to find that after a couple of years with no service, the system was only down about 20ml of coolant!


congrats ! once bled you really dont add much, usually.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would look at a normal loop. far far cheaper IMO/IME
> 
> as to the alphacool thing check this out and decide if it is worth buying from them
> congrats ! once bled you really dont add much, usually.


Yeah, I know I could make a cheaper loop using different components but the main point of this loop is to make a space-efficient, easy to maintain loop. Also, the list I've put together has changed some, so all in all cost is now about $330, including shipping. I was able to knock quite a bit off by choosing a rad that would allow me to use fans I already own







The ultra-budget loop I just threw together at performance-pcs was about $175 all said and done. Certainly a considerable price difference, but not enough for me to re-think it. Also, this is just conjecture right now. If I went back to water right now, my wife would probably kill me. So I'll wait for a bit, bide my time.

I know Alphacool's quality leaves a lot to be desired, but they also have the only block that will work with the Sapphire R9 Fury NITRO+ that I can find. But like I said, I won't even bother getting a block for that card... the cooler it has is pretty fantastic. I'd most likely get a water block for the next GPU I get instead, which would allow me to be much more picky!


----------



## v1ral

Is there a rep that goes one here still?
I ask because, i am trying to source the g1/4 adapter for the H220X to go hard line tubing. I contacted PPCS they said swiftech EOL the adapters. I think its a dumb move, people are still rocking the H220X.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Is there a rep that goes one here still?
> I ask because, i am trying to source the g1/4 adapter for the H220X to go hard line tubing. I contacted PPCS they said swiftech EOL the adapters. I think its a dumb move, people are still rocking the H220X.


Wouldn't be easier to contact Swiftech directly than to post in a forum?


----------



## v1ral

I suppose..
How long would it take to get a response?
I'll get in touch with them.
Thanks


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I suppose..
> How long would it take to get a response?
> I'll get in touch with them.
> Thanks


I contacted them about AM4 brackets before they were released and got a response within 2 days.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfarmer*
> 
> I contacted them about AM4 brackets before they were released and got a response within 2 days.


One could also get crazy and call them and have an answer in a couple of minutes.

T. (562)-821-5924
F. (562)-821-5927

Toll Free (continental US only):
1-888-85SWIFT (1-888-857-9438)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Is there a rep that goes one here still?
> I ask because, i am trying to source the g1/4 adapter for the H220X to go hard line tubing. I contacted PPCS they said swiftech EOL the adapters. I think its a dumb move, people are still rocking the H220X.


@kats


----------



## Blackops_2

So i don't guess there is anyway to get an AM4 bracket for the Glacer 240L?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So i don't guess there is anyway to get an AM4 bracket for the Glacer 240L?


This should work.









http://www.swiftech.com/AM4MountingKit.aspx


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> This should work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/AM4MountingKit.aspx


Thankyou sir!


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Is there a rep that goes one here still?
> I ask because, i am trying to source the g1/4 adapter for the H220X to go hard line tubing. I contacted PPCS they said swiftech EOL the adapters. I think its a dumb move, people are still rocking the H220X.


You're not wrong.
I've been looking for an adaptor for ages now and am on the verge of flogging this thing on eBay and never buying Swiftech again.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> You're not wrong.
> I've been looking for an adaptor for ages now and am on the verge of flogging this thing on eBay and never buying Swiftech again.


https://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/pompen/laing-swiftech/accessories-10/swiftech-mcp30-g1-4-adapter-g1-4-op.html?sl=en

This is the only place I could find it listed as in stock.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Is there a rep that goes one here still?
> I ask because, i am trying to source the g1/4 adapter for the H220X to go hard line tubing. I contacted PPCS they said swiftech EOL the adapters. I think its a dumb move, people are still rocking the H220X.
> 
> 
> 
> You're not wrong.
> I've been looking for an adaptor for ages now and am on the verge of flogging this thing on eBay and never buying Swiftech again.
Click to expand...

@kats


----------



## kats

We are coming out with new "hardline" fittings/adapters/etc.. I'll let you guys know as soon as we have them available! Thx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kats*
> 
> We are coming out with new "hardline" fittings/adapters/etc.. I'll let you guys know as soon as we have them available! Thx


But is the H220X G1/4 adapter available anywhere? That is the question at hand.


----------



## kats

It is discontinued..


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kats*
> 
> We are coming out with new "hardline" fittings/adapters/etc.. I'll let you guys know as soon as we have them available! Thx


???


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> ???


Would these work with the H220X?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Would these work with the H220X?


If you have the coveted adapter. Lol otherwise no.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have one adapter on my H240X but I need one for my H140X because that one is more directly visible through the side window. I thought they were just out of stock. I hope they re-release them here sometime soon.....


----------



## dikkiedirk

a friend likes to reinstall his MCR 140 into a Carbide 540. He had added an EK Supremacy to the MCR 140 originally but now he likes to add an Alphacool 240 rad to the loop and mount this rad in the front of the case.
My questions are:
What is the preferred mounting position of the MCR 140, vertically in the back of the case or horizontally in the top of the case?

Should the 240 rad be mounted with connections in the top or in the bottom of the case?

What is the inlet and outlet of the MCR 140, the connector on the reservoir or on the radiator?

Where should the 240 rad be connected in the loop?


----------



## v1ral

Damn I really don't want to sell my unit just to implement hardline tubing configs. The stock pump is very good, radiator is very good, heck the HELIX fans are good as well.. my Air 540 is has a slew of Helix fans in it.
Hope they start making them again...*fitting adpters


----------



## lapper13

Newbie here; is it really worth replacing my h115i with an h240 x2 prestige? Thought I had a good cooler until I found this forum. You guys hate those corsair jawns.

What I've learned from perusing the 20,000+ posts here: Copper rad is better than aluminum at dissipating heat, swiftech has a better pump than corsair and the swiftech system is able to be modified.

Just want to make sure it's worth the effort, because I have no damn idea what I'm doing over here.
Did most of you notice a drastic drop in temps when you switched over to a swiftech?

Here's my build for reference:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/xwgwrH

Want the biggest one I can fit in my case and it looks like the h240 is the biggest one that will fit.

Is top exhaust better than front intake? Opinions appear to vary on that point.

Thanks so much for all the info on this site. It's been a great education for me so far.


----------



## navit

I am thinking top because of your case. It looks like your rad sits below that shroud unless it can be raised up above ,it wound not effect temps as much as look better. Based off the temps you should I do think you will see better load temps running 5.0 or at least I do.


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Damn I really don't want to sell my unit just to implement hardline tubing configs. The stock pump is very good, radiator is very good, heck the HELIX fans are good as well.. my Air 540 is has a slew of Helix fans in it.
> Hope they start making them again...*fitting adpters


I do have like 2 that I haven't used. I just have to look for it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Newbie here; is it really worth replacing my h115i with an h240 x2 prestige? Thought I had a good cooler until I found this forum. You guys hate those corsair jawns.
> 
> What I've learned from perusing the 20,000+ posts here: Copper rad is better than aluminum at dissipating heat, swiftech has a better pump than corsair and the swiftech system is able to be modified.
> 
> Just want to make sure it's worth the effort, because I have no damn idea what I'm doing over here.
> Did most of you notice a drastic drop in temps when you switched over to a swiftech?
> 
> Here's my build for reference:
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/xwgwrH
> 
> Want the biggest one I can fit in my case and it looks like the h240 is the biggest one that will fit.
> 
> Is top exhaust better than front intake? Opinions appear to vary on that point.
> 
> Thanks so much for all the info on this site. It's been a great education for me so far.


Yes I do think it would be worth it to go with the H240-X Prestige. You will probably see slightly better temps of between 2 to 5 deg better, if you were able to and went with the H360 you would see even better temps. On that note I would recommend getting a different case. I have the Phantom 820 and it has loads of room and plenty of space to add the H360.


----------



## shamus20

so after running my h220x2 for just over a year it looks like i might have to drain the loop. does anyone have any experience with replacing the fluid in h220x2? any suggestions?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yes I do think it would be worth it to go with the H240-X Prestige. You will probably see slightly better temps of between 2 to 5 deg better, if you were able to and went with the H360 you would see even better temps. On that note I would recommend getting a different case. I have the Phantom 820 and it has loads of room and plenty of space to add the H360.


The 360 fits in the Evolv ATX with No problem.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 360 fits in the Evolv ATX with No problem.


@lapper13
Well there you go.
Still, I believe the Phantom 820 has better airflow. Although it is an EATX case so it's pretty big.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 360 fits in the Evolv ATX with No problem.


You mean the h320 right? Wanna make sure I don't but the wrong one.
Swiftech site lists the 320 at 375mm.
Phanteks lists top water cooling on enthoo atx tempered glass case "up to 360."
Specs infer the 320 won't fit, but if ciarlatano says it fits, I'm not gonna argue the point


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> You mean the h320 right? Wanna make sure I don't but the wrong one.
> Swiftech site lists the 320 at 375mm.
> Phanteks lists top water cooling on enthoo atx tempered glass case "up to 360."
> Specs infer the 320 won't fit, but if ciarlatano says it fits, I'm not gonna argue the point


Yeah, the 320...sorry for the confusion. He seems to know what he is talking about. You can probably find videos on fitting 360mm rads in that case if you want to see how they did it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> You mean the h320 right? Wanna make sure I don't but the wrong one.
> Swiftech site lists the 320 at 375mm.
> Phanteks lists top water cooling on enthoo atx tempered glass case "up to 360."
> Specs infer the 320 won't fit, but if ciarlatano says it fits, I'm not gonna argue the point


Yes, I was referring to the H320....or any 360mm rad.


----------



## lapper13

Cool, thanks so much.
Now, if I could only buy one.
H320's are out of stock, boooooo.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Cool, thanks so much.
> Now, if I could only buy one.
> H320's are out of stock, boooooo.


They are in stock at PPCs - http://www.performance-pcs.com/aio-all-in-one/swiftech-h320-x2-triple-120mm-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are in stock at PPCs - http://www.performance-pcs.com/aio-all-in-one/swiftech-h320-x2-triple-120mm-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html


Thanks, but they're out of the 320 prestige also.
From what I've researched, prestige has better fans and compression fittings vs barbed fittings. Lemme know if ya find a 320 prestige.

Am I correct in thinking the larger rad would be better at cooling than the smaller one? That's why I'm stuck on the h320, for the increased rad size and prestige for better fans and fittings.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Thanks, but they're out of the 320 prestige also.
> From what I've researched, prestige has better fans and compression fittings vs barbed fittings. Lemme know if ya find a 320 prestige.
> 
> Am I correct in thinking the larger rad would be better at cooling than the smaller one? That's why I'm stuck on the h320, for the increased rad size and prestige for better fans and fittings.


The 360mm rad is only 10% larger than the 280mm rad (43,200 vs. 39,200 sq mm). In CPU only loops, there is typically no performance difference in normal usage. But, the Evolv ATX top does tend to produce better results with a 360 since it is much easier to isolate.


----------



## lapper13

So the swiftech 320 is back ordered everywhere and I need a better cooling solution than my current h115i AIO, so I'm thinking about building a custom loop.
Given this is my first PC build, am I taking on too much by attempting a custom loop?
It would be CPU only.
Would a custom loop with a 360 mm radiator provide better cooling than the swiftech AIO?
If not, maybe I just wait for their AIO to become available...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> So the swiftech 320 is back ordered everywhere and I need a better cooling solution than my current h115i AIO, so I'm thinking about building a custom loop.
> Given this is my first PC build, am I taking on too much by attempting a custom loop?
> It would be CPU only.
> Would a custom loop with a 360 mm radiator provide better cooling than the swiftech AIO?
> If not, maybe I just wait for their AIO to become available...


It depends on what components you used in the loop. The Swiftech is comprised of custom loop components, so you could build something similar, or something a bit better.

I have an Evolv ATX, myself, and use a single HWL 360GTS for CPU and GPU. Temps are markedly better than using the Swiftech, but cost was also a lot higher.


----------



## Xaeos

I'm using a Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige on my Intel 5960X / X99 platform build and it so far has been a dream! With an overclock to 4.5ghz (turbo) across all cores at 1.3000v, the temps stay comfortably low using fully loaded non-AVX stress tests, and even maxing it out with harshest AVX loads will only occasionally get a core to around 85+, but never to a point of throttling.

I was wondering if anyone knew if Swiftech was going to make a X2 Prestige capable CPU block designed for Threadripper? I'm thinking of building a Threadripper kit next and if I'm correct even the current GPU block isn't quite big enough for optimal cooling.of TR4 socket processors. Depending if the TR setup will be my main rig (with my X99 relegated to server duties) or vice versa, I was thinking of swapping my X2 Prestige unit over if a CPU block was in the works. I wonder though how easy/safe it would be to swap out the blocks - I've not worked on a "real" liquid cooling system for years so I'm not sure about what kind of draining, bleeding etc.. and other maintenance would be necessary, or if a swap could be done without needing to add more fluid, bleed the line of air etc...


----------



## OdinValk

The XL2 block might actually be big enough to cover the IHS of TR4 pretty well actually. its actually bigger than my Ryzen chip. Since the block is square and not circular like those awful asetek coolers.


----------



## Kelwing

Question about the CM Glacial 240L. I've had one for some time and seem to be having a heat issue now. Seems to have started in last few days. Gaming it is going up to 99c. Checked water level and it is fine. I am seeing rpm speeds for the pump and can here it spinning.

Is there a good way to verify it is moving water? Using the stock Intel air cooler for now.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelwing*
> 
> Question about the CM Glacial 240L. I've had one for some time and seem to be having a heat issue now. Seems to have started in last few days. Gaming it is going up to 99c. Checked water level and it is fine. I am seeing rpm speeds for the pump and can here it spinning.
> 
> Is there a good way to verify it is moving water? Using the stock Intel air cooler for now.


how old is the water that is in it? When is the last time it was cleaned? It's possible that the pump is clogged, OR more likely, the microfins on the waterblock are clogged and thus not cooling as efficiently. I'm not familiar with the Glacial 240L, I will check it out further, but if it is a loop that can be taken apart I would start with draining the water and trying to flush the radiator and the water block.

EDIT: upon further inspection of what exactly that cooler is, It is a AiO water cooler and those after years of use tend to gunk up and stop working. Either the pump fails because its clogged, or the block gets gunked and stops cooling. I doubt you can take it apart, but if its past its warranty time, theres no harm in trying to take it apart and clean it if you don't want to replace it with something that is more accessible


----------



## Kelwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> how old is the water that is in it? When is the last time it was cleaned? It's possible that the pump is clogged, OR more likely, the microfins on the waterblock are clogged and thus not cooling as efficiently. I'm not familiar with the Glacial 240L, I will check it out further, but if it is a loop that can be taken apart I would start with draining the water and trying to flush the radiator and the water block.
> 
> EDIT: upon further inspection of what exactly that cooler is, It is a AiO water cooler and those after years of use tend to gunk up and stop working. Either the pump fails because its clogged, or the block gets gunked and stops cooling. I doubt you can take it apart, but if its past its warranty time, theres no harm in trying to take it apart and clean it if you don't want to replace it with something that is more accessible


I had to search and had it since 11/2013. Can't believe my current build is that old. Anyways I'll tear down pump and see what it looks like inside. Has worked great until this week.

Edit: Just drained water out and the crude that came out. I think I know the problem. Needs cleaned and flushed bad.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelwing*
> 
> I had to search and had it since 11/2013. Can't believe my current build is that old. Anyways I'll tear down pump and see what it looks like inside. Has worked great until this week.
> 
> Edit: Just drained water out and the crude that came out. I think I know the problem. Needs cleaned and flushed bad.


Yeah the problem with those all-in-one coolers is that they are supposed to be maintenance-free but the problem is no type of hydro cooler can possibly be totally maintenance-free but I'm glad the problem was found and that is usually the problem with those types of coolers they build up crap overtime and it clogs the micro fins on the Block and also the pump be careful when taking apart the pump so you don't destroy it in such a way that it cannot be put back together and use again also make sure that you leak tested once you get everything put back together to ensure that it will not leak water


----------



## OdinValk

Any of you guys with the coolers that have the XL2 block the clear acrylic one that comes on the x-series coolers have any of y'all taking them apart to clean? How easy was it I'm thinking the next time I pull mine out which might be soon to change the fluid I'm going to open up the block and clean it


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Any of you guys with the coolers that have the XL2 block the clear acrylic one that comes on the x-series coolers have any of y'all taking them apart to clean? How easy was it I'm thinking the next time I pull mine out which might be soon to change the fluid I'm going to open up the block and clean it


I have the block as I had a h220 prestige, and I have been using the block with my current loop. Have gotten rid of the prestige minus the block.
I will be re building my loop today and adding more components and have planned on taking the xl2 apart and cleaning it. I can snap you some pics of it being taken apart if you would like .


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I have the block as I had a h220 prestige, and I have been using the block with my current loop. Have gotten rid of the prestige minus the block.
> I will be re building my loop today and adding more components and have planned on taking the xl2 apart and cleaning it. I can snap you some pics of it being taken apart if you would like .


That would be great! Thanks. I've never taken one totally apart before, am curious to what all pieces it will have


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> That would be great! Thanks. I've never taken one totally apart before, am curious to what all pieces it will have


I took mine apart before and it isn't difficult, just make sure to correctly reinstall your O rings.


----------



## Kelwing

Ok took apart my 240L. Soaked the rad and tubing in Preston radiator flush. Let it sit for 4 hours then rinsed out with hot water. Tore down pump and it was clean inside. Rinsed water thru it and it seemed to clean out nicely. Soaked copper plate in the Preston also then scrubbed rinsed.

I drag race so we can't use anti freeze in race motors. So having used Redline Water Wetter with distilled water in my race engines. I mixed up a quart for my AIO. 1oz Redline with 31oz water. Ended up only needing 8oz to fill AIO. Put another 8oz in a container for another time. Rest into my truck. Everything back into computer and running like new again. Currently idle temp about 2-3* cooler than before.

Edit - Idle now at 32*c and load while gaming last few hours a peak of 55*c and generally sitting at 44-47*c. Pump set at max and is quiet. Fans set to ramp up to 100% at 60*c


----------



## narutoninjakid

Looking to get the new Corsair HD 120 fans. I have a 1st gen Swiftech H240X. Can I install 120mm Fans on the H240X in a Corsair 570X Case ? Downgrading from a large 750d case. If the 120mm fans wont work on the 240x I may need to buy another cpu cooler. Let me know. Thank you.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *narutoninjakid*
> 
> Looking to get the new Corsair HD 120 fans. I have a 1st gen Swiftech H240X. Can I install 120mm Fans on the H240X in a Corsair 570X Case ? Downgrading from a large 750d case. If the 120mm fans wont work on the 240x I may need to buy another cpu cooler. Let me know. Thank you.


So...you would ditch a top of the line 280mm liquid cooling solution in order to use marginal 120mm fans.......


----------



## narutoninjakid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So...you would ditch a top of the line 280mm liquid cooling solution in order to use marginal 120mm fans.......


If I had to yeah. I also have some growth in the H240X ( Bought it in 2015) so was looking at cleaning it up for the new build. If I could not get the 120mm fans on it i would just hop to a newer 220 instead.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelwing*
> 
> I had to search and had it since 11/2013. Can't believe my current build is that old. Anyways I'll tear down pump and see what it looks like inside. Has worked great until this week.
> 
> Edit: Just drained water out and the crude that came out. I think I know the problem. Needs cleaned and flushed bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelwing*
> 
> Ok took apart my 240L. Soaked the rad and tubing in Preston radiator flush. Let it sit for 4 hours then rinsed out with hot water. Tore down pump and it was clean inside. Rinsed water thru it and it seemed to clean out nicely. Soaked copper plate in the Preston also then scrubbed rinsed.
> 
> I drag race so we can't use anti freeze in race motors. So having used Redline Water Wetter with distilled water in my race engines. I mixed up a quart for my AIO. 1oz Redline with 31oz water. Ended up only needing 8oz to fill AIO. Put another 8oz in a container for another time. Rest into my truck. Everything back into computer and running like new again. Currently idle temp about 2-3* cooler than before.
> 
> Edit - Idle now at 32*c and load while gaming last few hours a peak of 55*c and generally sitting at 44-47*c. Pump set at max and is quiet. Fans set to ramp up to 100% at 60*c


Looks like we have the same issue, I was overheating and shutting down, first I thought it was the PSU tripping ocp and had it RMA'd. My glacer had a ton of gunk in it blocking the fins. Flushed it with Hot h2O and vinegar solution let it sit oer'night, flushed it some mo' with distilled. Currently soaking block in warm water and vinegar. Plan to expand the system with another 240 rad from my previous AIO(aphacool) so I got some compression fiitings and some mayhems xt-1 nuke from performance pcs. Looks like i'll need about 500ml to fill both rads with with 50ml of that being the nuke soln


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Looks like we have the same issue, I was overheating and shutting down, first I thought it was the PSU tripping ocp and had it RMA'd. My glacer had a ton of gunk in it blocking the fins. Flushed it with Hot h2O and vinegar solution let it sit oer'night, flushed it some mo' with distilled. Currently soaking block in warm water and vinegar. Plan to expand the system with another 240 rad from my previous AIO(aphacool) so I got some compression fiitings and some mayhems xt-1 nuke from performance pcs. Looks like i'll need about 500ml to fill both rads with with 50ml of that being the nuke soln


Make sure you are going to use tubing that is compatible with XT-1 Nuke:


----------



## diggiddi

Yep using Mayhems Soft tubing


----------



## dikkiedirk

Where is the bleed screw on the H140-X? Is it longer there because I can't find it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Where is the bleed screw on the H140-X? Is it longer there because I can't find it.


they removed it because it can strip and it caused cracking issues in the acrylic window


----------



## dikkiedirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> they removed it because it can strip and it caused cracking issues in the acrylic window


Thanks. What is the best way to top off when filling and to get rid of air bubbles?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dikkiedirk*
> 
> Thanks. What is the best way to top off when filling and to get rid of air bubbles?


I always do it with the fill port facing up, and use a wash bottle to get into the res and fill while it is running. Only way i have found to get it completely full.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I always do it with the fill portbfacing up, and use a wash bottle to get into the res and fill while it is running. Only way i have found to get it completely full.


this I Use a medical syringe like for irrigation of holes where teeth have been removed but wash bottle would be better honestly because it can fill and top off....


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It depends on what components you used in the loop. The Swiftech is comprised of custom loop components, so you could build something similar, or something a bit better.
> 
> I have an Evolv ATX, myself, and use a single HWL 360GTS for CPU and GPU. Temps are markedly better than using the Swiftech, but cost was also a lot higher.


Do you have a 140mm exhaust fan in the back of your case? Planning out a 360mm rad for the top of my case, but wondering if there's enough clearance with the rear case exhaust fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Do you have a 140mm exhaust fan in the back of your case? Planning out a 360mm rad for the top of my case, but wondering if there's enough clearance with the rear case exhaust fan.


There is room for it. However, I have tried it as intake, exhaust and off....and off gives the best results for both temps and dust.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is room for it. However, I have tried it as intake, exhaust and off....and off gives the best results for both temps and dust.


Which is why experimentation is always a good idea to optimize case airflow.


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is room for it. However, I have tried it as intake, exhaust and off....and off gives the best results for both temps and dust.


Off?!? Wow, I didn't expect that answer. Cooling a case is as complicated as figuring out my wife's mood...

Another fan question: better to have 2, 140mm intakes in front or 3, 120mm intakes? Currently have 2, 140 intakes that came with case. Wondering if I should buy 3 120mm's for better air flow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Off?!? Wow, I didn't expect that answer. Cooling a case is as complicated as figuring out my wife's mood...
> 
> Another fan question: better to have 2, 140mm intakes in front or 3, 120mm intakes? Currently have 2, 140 intakes that came with case. Wondering if I should buy 3 120mm's for better air flow.


Sometimes worse than figuring out wife's moods.









I use 2x 140s rather than 3x 120s. While both move about the same air if they are of similar design, the 2x 140s usually make less noise. But that said I have seen systems that had better overall airflow with 3x 120s than with 2 x 140s because 120x360mm intake flow area can cool things tip and bottom the 140x280mm flow area might not.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapper13*
> 
> Off?!? Wow, I didn't expect that answer. Cooling a case is as complicated as figuring out my wife's mood...
> 
> Another fan question: better to have 2, 140mm intakes in front or 3, 120mm intakes? Currently have 2, 140 intakes that came with case. Wondering if I should buy 3 120mm's for better air flow.


With it as exhaust, I wind up with a ton of dust in the case. With it as intake, it simply pulls the rad exhaust right back in and feeds the rad warmer air (measured ~4C warmer at the rear intake of the rad). Off gives the same performance as exhaust and no dust issues.

My case came with actual F140SP, not the new hybrid fan. I tried three Noctua 120mm up front, and that didn't work out well - more noise and less airflow. I went back to the F140MP and added an Arctic 80mm for the HDD.


----------



## clarifiante

this is sold out everywhere, does anyone have word on when or if they'll restock? i'm in spain


----------



## kfxsti

Has anyone taken the pump off the H220 prestige and added
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056LRJD4/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pd_rd_wg=SgapE&pd_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pd_rd_w=69NbY&pd_rd_i=B0056LRJD4
To it ? If so did you need a top or does this mount to the pump itself?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Has anyone taken the pump off the H220 prestige and added
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056LRJD4/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pd_rd_wg=SgapE&pd_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pd_rd_w=69NbY&pd_rd_i=B0056LRJD4
> To it ? If so did you need a top or does this mount to the pump itself?


It would require a top.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It would require a top.


Anyone in particular you recommend?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Anyone in particular you recommend?


Swiftech only makes one top for that pump, and I am Not Sure it is available separately.


----------



## VSG

Unfortunately it is not available separately. Let's see if @kats can do something about it though.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech only makes one top for that pump, and I am Not Sure it is available separately.


After doing some research Xspc and Bitspower makes a top for it. Saweeet


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> After doing some research Xspc and Bitspower makes a top for it. Saweeet


Actually.....they don't. The pump in the H220 series are Swiftech pumps, not Laing DDC pumps, and they are not interchangeable. Swiftech is the only one making a top for it.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.....they don't. The pump in the H220 series are Swiftech pumps, not Laing DDC pumps, and they are not interchangeable. Swiftech is the only one making a top for it.


The pump being used is a mcp30 within the H220 Prestige and I have looked around and infact this came about.


I also reached out and got confirmation from others. I.may mess with to see. I haven't decided yet.


----------



## VSG

Please link to the products from Bitspower and XSPC you are talking about.


----------



## kfxsti

Getting kids washed and ready for school tomorrow. I'll.link them in a few. But a mcp50x top will fit as well.


----------



## kfxsti

He was right I was confusing the mcp35x for the mcp30. But I do have an idea.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> He was right I was confusing the mcp35x for the mcp30. But I do have an idea.


That's what I was trying to tell you......


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Has anyone taken the pump off the H220 prestige and added
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056LRJD4/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pd_rd_wg=SgapE&pd_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_r=ZVBM3Q62NM4ZX672PJPE&pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pd_rd_w=69NbY&pd_rd_i=B0056LRJD4
> To it ? If so did you need a top or does this mount to the pump itself?


As the description indicates it is "Compatible with Swiftech MCP35X and MCP50X pumps" and "Attaches Directly to the Pump Saving Space". Thereby you would either need one of the tops that someone else mentioned or use a Swiftech MCP35X or a MCP50X pump. You can try searching for yourself for a top. I'd try Performance PCs if I were you.


----------



## diggiddi

Anyone having fitment issues on a crosshair formula z with the glacer 240l?
It seems the heatsink on the VRM closest to the graphics card is too big??
Its in the way of the mounting bracket. As such I cant seem to mount it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Yeah the problem with those all-in-one coolers is that they are supposed to be maintenance-free but the problem is no type of hydro cooler can possibly be totally maintenance-free but I'm glad the problem was found and that is usually the problem with those types of coolers they build up crap overtime and it clogs the micro fins on the Block and also the pump be careful when taking apart the pump so you don't destroy it in such a way that it cannot be put back together and use again also make sure that you leak tested once you get everything put back together to ensure that it will not leak water


While CLC have no provision for maintenance, Swiftech is an AIO, not a CLC.
For Hxxx X2 Swiftech says
_"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed, the H320 X2 Prestige CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its 3 year warranty period. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."_

The previous Hxxx X series says
_"As shipped from our factory and installed as directed (*), the H240-X CPU cooler requires no maintenance during its 3 year warranty period; a system refill is recommend at the end of 3 years. Under extreme ambient conditions, the system may need more frequent refills. If upgraded by the user, the interval of time between refills will depend on how users implement their customized loop."_

Original Hxxx said
"Coolant: your liquid cooling system has been factory prefilled with Swiftech's corrosion and algae inhibitor and will require no refills depending on environmental conditions (ambient temperature in particular), for up to 3 years."


----------



## lapper13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> this is sold out everywhere, does anyone have word on when or if they'll restock? i'm in spain


I emailed swiftech a few weeks ago about availability of the h320 prestige. According to their rep, they should be available tomorrow.


----------



## Stemer1990

Hi, does someone know can h240 x or x2 fit in Phantom 410
thank you


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stemer1990*
> 
> Hi, does someone know can h240 x or x2 fit in Phantom 410
> thank you


I'm sorry I wasn't able to help you when you PM'd me. I'm not the rep for Swiftech anymore. Don't forget to mention that you're also using the new Asus Hero board as well. There might be issues fitting the block on that board.


----------



## dvyjns

I'm still using the original H320 in the image above on an Intel Core i5-2500k processor. I'm planning to upgrade to a Ryzen 5 1600 soon. Since this CPU cooler is still performing quite well I was wondering if the AM4 adaptor kit that Swiftech released will work with this model?

The compatibility list says it supports H320 X2 AIO cooling kit but the model I have is not X2 so I'm unsure if this kit will work or not. Has anyone tried?


----------



## Gavush

I'm running the first H240-X that was sold by Swiftech... I received this complimentary from Swittech for having ordered the first one when they became available. It's been in use since October 2014.. after a brief period of folding early on I now shut my computer down when I'm not using it. Not sure how many hours are on it... anywho, one of the 140mm fans has quit and I need to source replacements. I'd like white LEDs but it's not mandatory. PWM is. I have to tear down my loop to change out the fans and any thickness change in the fan would mean I need to re-plumb the system b/c of the acrylic tubing.. these days I'd more-so like something high quality and quiet over flashy and high performance. My rig only gets "hot" when gaming (still playing BF4) and even then I only noticed the fan was dead b/c my CPU got up to 54c so it's not like cooling capacity is an issue. Any suggestions?

.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I'm running the first H240-X that was sold by Swiftech... I received this complimentary from Swittech for having ordered the first one when they became available. It's been in use since October 2014.. after a brief period of folding early on I now shut my computer down when I'm not using it. Not sure how many hours are on it... anywho, one of the 140mm fans has quit and I need to source replacements. I'd like white LEDs but it's not mandatory. PWM is. I have to tear down my loop to change out the fans and any thickness change in the fan would mean I need to re-plumb the system b/c of the acrylic tubing.. these days I'd more-so like something high quality and quiet over flashy and high performance. My rig only gets "hot" when gaming (still playing BF4) and even then I only noticed the fan was dead b/c my CPU got up to 54c so it's not like cooling capacity is an issue. Any suggestions?
> 
> .


The Phanteks F140MP would fit the bill. You could also go with 140mm Vardars, but many (myself included) find the tonality a little irritating. The 140mm eLoops are 29mm thick, so they wouldn't work out.


----------



## PontiacGTX

the glacer 240L has AM4 brackets?


----------



## sav4

So giving the pc a clean out today and was wondering Has anyone noticed the H240x pump Having a weird smell almost like a burning type smell?. Unit is about 18month old and it seems to be there only sometimes.
But it's quite strong at the pump.
It has sata cable connected and pwm to the hub


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> So giving the pc a clean out today and was wondering Has anyone noticed the H240x pump Having a weird smell almost like a burning type smell?. Unit is about 18month old and it seems to be there only sometimes.
> But it's quite strong at the pump.
> It has sata cable connected and pwm to the hub


Is it a melting plastic kind of burn smell, or something else? What does the burn smell remind you of?


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Is it a melting plastic kind of burn smell, or something else? What does the burn smell remind you of?


Electrical component failure.
Temps noise etc all appear ok


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Electrical component failure.
> Temps noise etc all appear ok


So like melting plastic or the rubber coating on wiring?

Some things to check out:

Check everything really closely to see if you have something up against a component that gets hot there might be a wire somewhere that has melted some.

If you are OCing you might be overheating your MB components like the North and'or the South Bridge. So you might want to try and offset voltage or even reducing your OC. If you're not OCing then disregard.

It could be your PSU also. I have had an issue like that in the past with an older PC and my PSU eventually died.

These are just ideas and things that I would have done to troubleshoot the cause. Good luck and keep us appraised of the situation.


----------



## PontiacGTX

So then Cooler master has Bracket for the Glacer 240L on AM4?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> So then Cooler master has Bracket for the Glacer 240L on AM4?


That seems like a question for Swiftech customer service, not an internet forum.


----------



## diggiddi

Does Glacer 240l have in and out ports? I ask because I expanded mine without taking note and the pump is running but,
when I connect to PC the system starts but not able to enter bios


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Does Glacer 240l have in and out ports? I ask because I expanded mine without taking note and the pump is running but,
> when I connect to PC the system starts but not able to enter bios


Yes, it does, but thatbwould in no way be related to you not being able to get into BIOS.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, it does, but thatbwould in no way be related to you not being able to get into BIOS.


I thought so but I am stumped as to why I can't get it to start, just throwing everything at it see if something helps


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> I thought so but I am stumped as to why I can't get it to start, just throwing everything at it see if something helps


What changes did you make when you expanded the loop? And what exactly happens when you hit the power button?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Does Glacer 240l have in and out ports? I ask because I expanded mine without taking note and the pump is running but,
> when I connect to PC the system starts but not able to enter bios


You might have disconnected something when connecting the unit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What changes did you make when you expanded the loop? And what exactly happens when you hit the power button?


Unless like said above, you made some other changes.


----------



## diggiddi

I cant figure out what happened before but I decided to try putting it back together and its working now on my FX 8350/sabertooth
I really need it to cool the 9590 so I'll try that cpu next


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So like melting plastic or the rubber coating on wiring?
> 
> Some things to check out:
> 
> Check everything really closely to see if you have something up against a component that gets hot there might be a wire somewhere that has melted some.
> 
> If you are OCing you might be overheating your MB components like the North and'or the South Bridge. So you might want to try and offset voltage or even reducing your OC. If you're not OCing then disregard.
> 
> It could be your PSU also. I have had an issue like that in the past with an older PC and my PSU eventually died.
> 
> These are just ideas and things that I would have done to troubleshoot the cause. Good luck and keep us appraised of the situation.


I was overclocking but it's been back to stock for a while. Checked wiring etc all looks good. Will put a air cooler back in and see if the smell is still there and give the unit a good checkover while it's out.
I did consider psu but voltages in hwinfo look okay.
Thanks for the advice


----------



## Heuchler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> So giving the pc a clean out today and was wondering Has anyone noticed the H240x pump Having a weird smell almost like a burning type smell?. Unit is about 18month old and it seems to be there only sometimes.
> But it's quite strong at the pump.
> It has sata cable connected and pwm to the hub


I got my H240-X back from the initial batch that had plastic from them drilling a hole and not flushing it out. The unit I got back from my RMA last year was low on coolant and the coolant was dirty after a month
So I contacted them and they told me just to replace the coolant. Three of four weeks later I notice a burned electrical smell coming from the H240-X. Coolant was low again. So the refurbished unit has a slow leak. Contact them again about getting an RMA and they asked for a Picture or Video. At that point I just put it back in the box and went back to my air cooler.

I will try tomorrow for a third time to get an RMA for this unit.


----------



## v1ral

Best way to clean the H220x?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Best way to clean the H220x?


Same as any other loop.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@kats I have a Swiftech H240-X and both of my fans have died. I am currently using tempory fans but I'd like to know if it is possible to get you guys to send me two new fans. It has been awhile since I got this unit and I am not sure if I could locate a receipt because I am not even sure if I bought off of you guys, Amazon, or some other site. But it has been about a year and a half now.

*For Anyone*
On that note, if Swiftech can't replace these fans are there better fans that I can purchase somewhere or should I just stick with the original?


----------



## kats

Hey there - can you shoot me over an email? [email protected] - I'll check on what we can do for you! Thx


----------



## diggiddi

Guys does the glacer come with separate AMD screws, or does it use the Intel 115X screws


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Guys does the glacer come with separate AMD screws, or does it use the Intel 115X screws


Different screws for AMD.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Different screws for AMD.


Ty repped up


----------



## Danbeme32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @kats I have a Swiftech H240-X and both of my fans have died. I am currently using tempory fans but I'd like to know if it is possible to get you guys to send me two new fans. It has been awhile since I got this unit and I am not sure if I could locate a receipt because I am not even sure if I bought off of you guys, Amazon, or some other site. But it has been about a year and a half now.
> 
> *For Anyone*
> On that note, if Swiftech can't replace these fans are there better fans that I can purchase somewhere or should I just stick with the original?


I replaced mine with the DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan .. Is as quiet as the original.. I tried other brands but at high speeds, they made to much noise for me..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I replaced mine with the DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan .. Is as quiet as the original.. I tried other brands but at high speeds, they made to much noise for me..


For that I could just purchase the originals again. I have a H240-X which use the Helix 140mm PWM fans. They are also pretty inexpensive at around $14 on average.

But no need to do that as Swiftech is helping me out and replacing the two fans thanks to @kats


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danbeme32*
> 
> I replaced mine with the DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan .. Is as quiet as the original.. I tried other brands but at high speeds, they made to much noise for me..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> For that I could just purchase the originals again. I have a H240-X which use the Helix 140mm PWM fans. They are also pretty inexpensive at around $14 on average.
> 
> But no need to do that as Swiftech is helping me out and replacing the two fans thanks to @kats


And there is that little matter about 140mm GTs not existing......


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> For that I could just purchase the originals again. I have a H240-X which use the Helix 140mm PWM fans. They are also pretty inexpensive at around $14 on average.
> 
> But no need to do that as Swiftech is helping me out and replacing the two fans thanks to @kats


Danbeme32 was only trying to be helpful, but instead of being nice you jump down his throat.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Danbeme32 was only trying to be helpful, but instead of being nice you jump down his throat.


Sorry, but I didn't jump down his throat. I simply told him I could purchase the original fans instead of something that's equal to them.
But you on the other hand got involved with something you misunderstood. Maybe instead of being a prick you could be helpful next time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Sorry, but I didn't jump down his throat. I simply told him I could purchase the original fans instead of something that's equal to them.
> But you on the other hand got involved with something you misunderstood. Maybe instead of being a prick you could be helpful next time.


So now you resort to calling names?
Which happens to be a violation of OCN rules of conduct.








Seems I might have hit a guilt nerve. You could have replied to Danbeme32 saying something like "GTs are 120mm fans and I need 140mm fans" .. or just said Swiftech is giving you new fans. GTs are better fans than Swiftech Helix, but as your cooler is 280mm it doesn't matter.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So now you resort to calling names?
> Which happens to be a violation of OCN rules of conduct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems I might have hit a guilt nerve. You could have replied to Danbeme32 saying something like "GTs are 120mm fans and I need 140mm fans" .. or just said Swiftech is giving you new fans. GTs are better fans than Swiftech Helix, but as your cooler is 280mm it doesn't matter.


I call it as I see it. Stop trying to justify your misunderstanding of what I said. But you probably can't admit you were wrong so I don't expect anything in that regard. I'm not sure where you get off in trying to antagonize this, just lay off because you were wrong.
I didn't even think of the size of the fans he was recommending. I based my reply to him on him saying the GTs were "just" as good as the Helix fans. I've also had one GT fan and I didn't see any difference in performance with other similar fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I call it as I see it. Stop trying to justify your misunderstanding of what I said. But you probably can't admit you were wrong so I don't expect anything in that regard. I'm not sure where you get off in trying to antagonize this, just lay off because you were wrong.
> I didn't even think of the size of the fans he was recommending. I based my reply to him on him saying the GTs were "just" as good as the Helix fans. I've also had one GT fan and I didn't see any difference in performance with other similar fans.


You called me down because I called it as I saw it. Stop trying to justify your misunderstanding of what I said. But you don't seem able to admvit you were also wrong calling me names, but I don't think you will apologize to me, so why should I to you?
GTs are better then Helix fans, but true, it doesn't matter because they are wrong size. What similar fans do you find as good as GTs?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You called me down because I called it as I saw it. Stop trying to justify your misunderstanding of what I said. But you don't seem able to admvit you were also wrong calling me names, but I don't think you will apologize to me, so why should I to you?
> GTs are better then Helix fans, but true, it doesn't matter because they are wrong size. What similar fans do you find as good as GTs?


I didn't misunderstand what you said. You called me out for supposedly jumping down someone's throat when in no way did I do that. You misunderstood me. Which I really do not see how you did that, but then again you may be one of those people who constantly makes up what you think someone means all the time.
I called it as I saw it, you were being a prick for trying to say I jumped down someone's throat when I did not.

As far as what fans I was using at the time I found to be just as good as the GTs? I have no idea, for all I know those fans may still be in my system as I don't remember if I changed them out. The GT I had may have died because I don't even have that fan anymore. Then again maybe I switched it out for a 140mm fan. I don't even have any 120mm fans except for this low profile Vortex 12, which is still in it's packaging...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I didn't misunderstand what you said. You called me out for supposedly jumping down someone's throat when in no way did I do that. You misunderstood me. Which I really do not see how you did that, but then again you may be one of those people who constantly makes up what you think someone means all the time.
> I called it as I saw it, you were being a prick for trying to say I jumped down someone's throat when I did not.
> 
> As far as what fans I was using at the time I found to be just as good as the GTs? I have no idea, for all I know those fans may still be in my system as I don't remember if I changed them out. The GT I had may have died because I don't even have that fan anymore. Then again maybe I switched it out for a 140mm fan. I don't even have any 120mm fans except for this low profile Vortex 12, which is still in it's packaging...


If I misunderstood your original post your subsequent replies have only supported my understanding of the attitude I felt you projected in your original post. Even your reply about what fans you had used is very abrupt and can easily be interpreted as being impolite and rude.
Hopefully you can step back and re-read how your abrupt posts be been interpreted as I did .. and how your subsequent posts are definitely rude and over the top. .. and all support my understanding of your post to Danbeme32.

To recap, maybe I misinterpreted your post to Danbeme32, but I have not misinterpreted your replies extremely rude replies to me.

That is how others and myself reading these posts see them.


----------



## SavantStrike

Is there anywhere I can go to get the adapter fitting swiftech made for the x series pumpd. My 140X didn't come with the fitting and I'm interested in modifying it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can go to get the adapter fitting swiftech made for the x series pumpd. My 140X didn't come with the fitting and I'm interested in modifying it.


Unfortunately it is discontinued. You can still modify using the original fitting with 3/8 * 5/8 tubing.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If I misunderstood your original post your subsequent replies have only supported my understanding of the attitude I felt you projected in your original post. Even your reply about what fans you had used is very abrupt and can easily be interpreted as being impolite and rude.
> Hopefully you can step back and re-read how your abrupt posts be been interpreted as I did .. and how your subsequent posts are definitely rude and over the top. .. and all support my understanding of your post to Danbeme32.
> 
> To recap, maybe I misinterpreted your post to Danbeme32, but I have not misinterpreted your replies extremely rude replies to me.
> 
> That is how others and myself reading these posts see them.


Yes, of course my replies to you were rude as they were meant to be. I was simply returning the same attitude you first presented towards me and have continued to present. I am defending myself yet you continue to extrude the same attitude from the beginning of this conversation. I'm not worried about your opinion of me. I am not quick to judge others on something I may have misinterpreted like you have done here.
You can continue to justify your stance all you want but I could really care less. The truth is you jumped down my throat and are attempting to antagonize me. I have replied in kind to your posts so maybe you should go back and reread your posts, but this time see it from a misunderstood point of view. Then maybe you will understand.
This forum is not the place to cry and complain about something you misunderstood. If you have an issue take it up with a moderator.
Leave it or report it, if you persist to rant over something you misunderstood I will report it. This forum is not for you to start an argument or antagonize people. It is time to carry on and forget about it, it's time to be mature and just drop it.

Now back to the regularly scheduled forum topics


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can go to get the adapter fitting swiftech made for the x series pumpd. My 140X didn't come with the fitting and I'm interested in modifying it.


What ciarlatano says below. But you may get lucky and find one on ebay or Amazon. I did see one a while back on Amazon but it was about double the normal price. I also need another one of these. If you happen to find another one somewhere and they have more left please mention it here because, if I remember correctly, there was at least one other person on this thread that was also looking for one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Unfortunately it is discontinued. You can still modify using the original fitting with 3/8 * 5/8 tubing.


----------



## SavantStrike

It looks like I may need to swap the pump for an mcp50x then lol.

I'm looking seriously at the 320 with a GPU added to the loop. Have any of you here used this configuration and if so was it competitive to a normal 360mm loop? The 320 makes some aspects of this really convenient.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Yes, of course my replies to you were rude as they were meant to be. I was simply returning the same attitude you first presented towards me and have continued to present. I am defending myself yet you continue to extrude the same attitude from the beginning of this conversation. I'm not worried about your opinion of me. I am not quick to judge others on something I may have misinterpreted like you have done here.
> You can continue to justify your stance all you want but I could really care less. The truth is you jumped down my throat and are attempting to antagonize me. I have replied in kind to your posts so maybe you should go back and reread your posts, but this time see it from a misunderstood point of view. Then maybe you will understand.
> This forum is not the place to cry and complain about something you misunderstood. If you have an issue take it up with a moderator.
> Leave it or report it, if you persist to rant over something you misunderstood I will report it. This forum is not for you to start an argument or antagonize people. It is time to carry on and forget about it, it's time to be mature and just drop it.
> 
> Now back to the regularly scheduled forum topics


While I many have misinterpreted your intent to Danbeme32, my post to you was not rude.
All of yours to me have been.
You could have made it clear I misinterpreted without being rude and calling name.
My attitude toward you has not been rude.
Yest I jumped on you in defense of Danbeme32.
You on the other hand became rude calling names and making insinuations.
If you were at least partially what I interpreted your to be from what you posted to Danbeme32, you have clearly proven that you are in your repeated rude posting to me.









I'm saying it again; I have repeatedly said I may have misinterpreted your post to Danbeme32, and you have continued to be rude which backs my assumption of your intent in post to Danbeme32 way more then it backs your claim of not intending to sound rude.

You tell me to leave it or report it.

You can leave it or report it. I don't care. While I have not backed down and may have misinterpreted your post to Danbeme32, I have not broken any OCN rules of conduct other than maybe sticking up for Danbeme32 .. and you clearly have.

I won't continue this if you do not reply.

Now back to the regularly scheduled forum topics


----------



## ciarlatano

Ok, how about we all drop it and talk about Swiftech now?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, how about we all drop it and talk about Swiftech now?


Way ahead of you on this a few posts ago...lol.

I was just wondering if you or anyone else knows if Swiftech has any plans to release a X2 version of the H140-X?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Way ahead of you on this a few posts ago...lol.
> 
> I was just wondering if you or anyone else knows if Swiftech has any plans to release a X2 version of the H140-X?


I haven't heard of any plans on it. Kind of a shame. That H140-X bare rad/pump is a great setup for GPUs - just buy a block and a couple of fittings and you have full cover liquid cooling at a very reasonable price, only slightly more than the farce of putting an AiO on your GPU.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't heard of any plans on it. Kind of a shame. That H140-X bare rad/pump is a great setup for GPUs - just buy a block and a couple of fittings and you have full cover liquid cooling at a very reasonable price, only slightly more than the farce of putting an AiO on your GPU.


That's exactly what I did! For my GTX 1070 I paired the H140-X with a heatkiller IV block and I paid less than $160 combined total. I'd have to go back and check as the total may be less than that.

Since then my GPU temps are amazing. It normally doesn't go above 42 deg except with Mass Effect Andromeda where it reaches about 52 deg max.


----------



## v1ral

Has anyone tried the Primochill VUE in there H220X?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Has anyone tried the Primochill VUE in there H220X?


Swiftech has stated that fluids with particles will damage the MCP30 pump.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech has stated that fluids with particles will damage the MCP30 pump.


That is true, however Vue is not a nano fluid as far as I''ve understood


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> That is true, however Vue is not a nano fluid as far as I''ve understood


If it is not a nanofluid, it is a micro fluid since we are visibly seeing moving things still. But without an MSDS, we can't tell so I can't recommend anyone using it till then.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If it is not a nanofluid, it is a micro fluid since we are visibly seeing moving things still. But without an MSDS, we can't tell so I can't recommend anyone using it till then.


Exactly. There are solids no matter what ridiculous name the marketing sheets give them.

And, personally, I'm waiting for the "oops.....I guess this stuff does break down" videos.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Swiftech has stated that fluids with particles will damage the MCP30 pump.


Right, as I've seen with the Dragon Ice and Mayhem's Ice White fluids. These particle based fluids will cause damage to the pump over time.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right, as I've seen with the Dragon Ice and Mayhem's Ice White fluids. These particle based fluids will cause damage to the pump over time.


Are there any pumps out there that can handle these fluids easily and without damaging the pumps? My guess is no, at least for something that does a good job in keeping the system cool.

My question would be is why do these companies keep making fluids that can ruin pumps like this?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Are there any pumps out there that can handle these fluids easily and without damaging the pumps? My guess is no, at least for something that does a good job in keeping the system cool.
> 
> My question would be is why do these companies keep making fluids that can ruin pumps like this?


No, not really. Over time they will wear out due to the way these fluids move through the pumps. That's my understanding at least. Will some last longer than others? Sure, but I think it's still a matter of time until they're worn out by the nano particles. It's a good point to also remember that a pump has moving parts and is thus also prone to failure like any mechanism. It's why you should always make sure you use approved fluids with your parts and conduct regular maintenance.


----------



## Gabkicks

it looks like the pump has maybe died for my h220x :-( i have had it for over 2 yrs now. Anyone know if they will replace or do i have to buy a new one?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> it looks like the pump has maybe died for my h220x :-( i have had it for over 2 yrs now. Anyone know if they will replace or do i have to buy a new one?


Have you contacted customer service?


----------



## EarlZ

I cant seem to open the fill port no matter how hard I try, I've already deformed the grove anyone got other tips that can help out?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I cant seem to open the fill port no matter how hard I try, I've already deformed the grove anyone got other tips that can help out?


Maybe try using vice grips? If I remember correctly the cap is knurled to assist with removal.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Maybe try using vice grips? If I remember correctly the cap is knurled to assist with removal.


@EarlZ If you use vice grips don't make them to tight. I use a penny to get my fill ports open, but only if it is too tight because normally I can open and close them with only my fingers.
I do remember having to use a screwdriver H240-X to get it open the first time because they it was so tight. My H 140-X was much easier but then again I took it apart when I first got it to use for my GPU.


----------



## EarlZ

I only used a flad head screw driver, ill try a vice grip see it helps


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I cant seem to open the fill port no matter how hard I try, I've already deformed the grove anyone got other tips that can help out?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe try using vice grips? If I remember correctly the cap is knurled to assist with removal.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Maybe try using vice grips? If I remember correctly the cap is knurled to assist with removal.
> 
> 
> 
> @EarlZ If you use vice grips don't make them to tight. I use a penny to get my fill ports open, but only if it is too tight because normally I can open and close them with only my fingers.
> I do remember having to use a screwdriver H240-X to get it open the first time because they it was so tight. My H 140-X was much easier but then again I took it apart when I first got it to use for my GPU.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this tip i was able to open it with zero effort! lol now time to research on how to effectively clean the radiator, cpu block and pump.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thanks for this tip i was able to open it with zero effort! lol now time to research on how to effectively clean the radiator, cpu block and pump.


Glad to hear that it worked.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thanks for this tip i was able to open it with zero effort! lol now time to research on how to effectively clean the radiator, cpu block and pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear that it worked.
Click to expand...

Any tips or heads up you can give me before I drain the unit and start cleaning it ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Any tips or heads up you can give me before I drain the unit and start cleaning it ?


My advice is to treat this as you would a custom loop. That is essentially what it is and the maintenance is the same. There are many good videos on YouTube that show how to properly drain and clean out a loop. The only difference is that this is a smaller unit and thus easier to take it out and put it back in. If you have any questions about this, just ask.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Any tips or heads up you can give me before I drain the unit and start cleaning it ?
> 
> 
> 
> My advice is to treat this as you would a custom loop. That is essentially what it is and the maintenance is the same. There are many good videos on YouTube that show how to properly drain and clean out a loop. The only difference is that this is a smaller unit and thus easier to take it out and put it back in. If you have any questions about this, just ask.
Click to expand...

Managed to drain it and take apart the block and when I took out the rez an o-ring popup off so I was not able to see the orientation it was installed, this o-ring has a bigger and smaller side, does the smaller side mate with the rez or the radiator?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Managed to drain it and take apart the block and when I took out the rez an o-ring popup off so I was not able to see the orientation it was installed, this o-ring has a bigger and smaller side, does the smaller side mate with the rez or the radiator?


It's been a while since I took one apart and I honestly don't remember. I would suggest calling their technical support line tomorrow morning. I think Kat monitors this forum as well and hopefully she can get you some support.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Managed to drain it and take apart the block and when I took out the rez an o-ring popup off so I was not able to see the orientation it was installed, this o-ring has a bigger and smaller side, does the smaller side mate with the rez or the radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> It's been a while since I took one apart and I honestly don't remember. I would suggest calling their technical support line tomorrow morning. I think Kat monitors this forum as well and hopefully she can get you some support.
Click to expand...

Whats her forum user name so I can shoot her a PM, Im 99.99% certain that the smaller side of the O-Ring mates on the res as it perfectly fits and if I turn it the other way around it will just fall off but I gotta make sure. My H220X sure has a lot of greenish like particles stuck every where and some copper color stains on the pump/block. I cant think of an effective way to clean the radiator though..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Whats her forum user name so I can shoot her a PM, Im 99.99% certain that the smaller side of the O-Ring mates on the res as it perfectly fits and if I turn it the other way around it will just fall off but I gotta make sure. My H220X sure has a lot of greenish like particles stuck every where and some copper color stains on the pump/block. I cant think of an effective way to clean the radiator though..


There are several ways to get as much of that crap out of your rad. I've used the Primochill Sys Prep to great effect in the past, I run it for about 48 hrs each time I use it. You can also try flushing it with a water and white vinegar mix. I am not sure if you can run white vinegar through your pump without damaging it, I'd leave that up to the experts on here to answer...lol


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Whats her forum user name so I can shoot her a PM, Im 99.99% certain that the smaller side of the O-Ring mates on the res as it perfectly fits and if I turn it the other way around it will just fall off but I gotta make sure. My H220X sure has a lot of greenish like particles stuck every where and some copper color stains on the pump/block. I cant think of an effective way to clean the radiator though..


Her user name is just kats . She posted about 3 or 4 pages back if you want to take a look. I'm guessing that you're right about the orientation as well. I would still check with her to be sure. Sorry I wasn't able to be of more assistance.


----------



## EarlZ

Is it okay to soak the CPU block overnight with vinegar?


----------



## Streetdragon

i would not do it over night. maybe one hour and then brush the fins with a toothbrush or so


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is it okay to soak the CPU block overnight with vinegar?


Actually, that should be fine so long as it's just the copper that you're soaking overnight. This is a solid copper block. Just rinse it with distilled water before putting it back together.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Is it okay to soak the CPU block overnight with vinegar?


What @BramSLI1 said, but rinse it thoroughly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Actually, that should be fine so long as it's just the copper that you're soaking overnight. This is a solid copper block. Just rinse it with distilled water before putting it back together.


----------



## EarlZ

Managed to finish cleaning and reassembling it back the other day and just running it outside of the case to check for leaks, I've also managed to possibly remove all of the air bubbles by tapping different parts of the radiator, and softly pinching the tubes and I would see bubbles exit from the pump every time I power off the unit until eventually the pump was silent, bleed port on the rez was the MVP as it allowed me to use a syringe and have air leave the rez easily, its as full as it can be or should I leave a little amount of space inside for the water when it gets warm ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Managed to finish cleaning and reassembling it back the other day and just running it outside of the case to check for leaks, I've also managed to possibly remove all of the air bubbles by tapping different parts of the radiator, and softly pinching the tubes and I would see bubbles exit from the pump every time I power off the unit until eventually the pump was silent, bleed port on the rez was the MVP as it allowed me to use a syringe and have air leave the rez easily, its as full as it can be or should I leave a little amount of space inside for the water when it gets warm ?


You should be fine though some recommend leaving a little air. I haven't had an issue yet with leaks and I have done filled it without any air and also with a little to many bubbles with barely a difference in temps. BTW, I have found you will get the same results if you just cycle your unit off and on without pinching or tapping.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Managed to finish cleaning and reassembling it back the other day and just running it outside of the case to check for leaks, I've also managed to possibly remove all of the air bubbles by tapping different parts of the radiator, and softly pinching the tubes and I would see bubbles exit from the pump every time I power off the unit until eventually the pump was silent, bleed port on the rez was the MVP as it allowed me to use a syringe and have air leave the rez easily, its as full as it can be or should I leave a little amount of space inside for the water when it gets warm ?


No, that should be fine. Permeation will set in eventually anyway. I'm glad to hear that it went smoothly.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> You should be fine though some recommend leaving a little air. I haven't had an issue yet with leaks and I have done filled it without any air and also with a little to many bubbles with barely a difference in temps. BTW, I have found you will get the same results if you just cycle your unit off and on without pinching or tapping.


uhhhggg i would never leave any air even the smallest amount makes pulling a small bubble into the pump more likely...one small bubble and you get the "running water" effect when it gets stuck in the impellar area...drives me insane really fast lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> uhhhggg i would never leave any air even the smallest amount makes pulling a small bubble into the pump more likely...one small bubble and you get the "running water" effect when it gets stuck in the impellar area...drives me insane really fast lol


Wow you must sit right next to your PC...lol. Mine is on the floor and I barely ever hear a thing from it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow you must sit right next to your PC...lol. Mine is on the floor and I barely ever hear a thing from it.


i do but certain noises bother me so much more than others i run my fans at 100 percent at all times but that running water sound grates on my nerves...Its odd another sound that drives me nuts is coil whine... I've thrown away psus before because they had it lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i do but certain noises bother me so much more than others i run my fans at 100 percent at all times but that running water sound grates on my nerves...Its odd another sound that drives me nuts is coil whine... I've thrown away psus before because they had it lol


I've never had coil whine in my system. I barely ever hear my fans and only when they are at 100%, and that hasn't happened in a real long time. I don't think I have ever heard my Swiftech Helix fans as they tend to be whisper quiet.
Then again I also have a air purifier running next to my desk to keep the dust down some, that can be noisy when I have it up all the way but even at low settings it drowns out other minor noises.


----------



## d3v0

Ordered a Swiftech H320 X2 to replace my aged H50. Can I join the club


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I've never had coil whine in my system. I barely ever hear my fans and only when they are at 100%, and that hasn't happened in a real long time. I don't think I have ever heard my Swiftech Helix fans as they tend to be whisper quiet.
> Then again I also have a air purifier running next to my desk to keep the dust down some, that can be noisy when I have it up all the way but even at low settings it drowns out other minor noises.


i have 6 helix 120s fans and 8 phanteks 140sp's blowing through rads so it can get loud especially if they get dusty


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i have 6 helix 120s fans and 8 phanteks 140sp's blowing through rads so it can get loud especially if they get dusty


Do you use dust filters? I use them and those combined with my air purifier does a decent job of keeping the dust out of my machine.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Do you use dust filters? I use them and those combined with my air purifier does a decent job of keeping the dust out of my machine.


i have them yes but my issue with that right now is my back panel is not on due to needing two 90 degree fittings i havent had time to tear the loop down and put in yet so the dust filters dont do so well when the air isnt directed through them....six month old baby and new job working 12s overnight i havent had a day to devote to it yet


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i have them yes but my issue with that right now is my back panel is not on due to needing two 90 degree fittings i havent had time to tear the loop down and put in yet so the dust filters dont do so well when the air isnt directed through them....six month old baby and new job working 12s overnight i havent had a day to devote to it yet


Yeah life does get in the way of our hobby...lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Ordered a Swiftech H320 X2 to replace my aged H50. Can I join the club


Of course. Welcome aboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow you must sit right next to your PC...lol. Mine is on the floor and I barely ever hear a thing from it.


Oh....the running water sound is infuriating when the fill is low and you have constant air in the pump.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Managed to finish cleaning and reassembling it back the other day and just running it outside of the case to check for leaks, I've also managed to possibly remove all of the air bubbles by tapping different parts of the radiator, and softly pinching the tubes and I would see bubbles exit from the pump every time I power off the unit until eventually the pump was silent, bleed port on the rez was the MVP as it allowed me to use a syringe and have air leave the rez easily, its as full as it can be or should I leave a little amount of space inside for the water when it gets warm ?
> 
> 
> 
> No, that should be fine. Permeation will set in eventually anyway. I'm glad to hear that it went smoothly.
Click to expand...

Im facing another issue now, its not giving me any better temps than the U12S, its actually 1-2c worse off. I've remounted a total of 3 times, water is flowing and the tubes are getting slightly warm. The copper cold plate does not have that brand new shine anymore and has some discolorations, would that affect performance ?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Im facing another issue now, its not giving me any better temps than the U12S, its actually 1-2c worse off. I've remounted a total of 3 times, water is flowing and the tubes are getting slightly warm. The copper cold plate does not have that brand new shine anymore and has some discolorations, would that affect performance ?


No, the discoloration is normal and doesn't have any impact on cooling performance. It's possible that you still have some air in the block or somewhere that's hindering your cooling performance. Let it continue to run for a bit and monitor it.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Im facing another issue now, its not giving me any better temps than the U12S, its actually 1-2c worse off. I've remounted a total of 3 times, water is flowing and the tubes are getting slightly warm. The copper cold plate does not have that brand new shine anymore and has some discolorations, would that affect performance ?
> 
> 
> 
> No, the discoloration is normal and doesn't have any impact on cooling performance. It's possible that you still have some air in the block or somewhere that's hindering your cooling performance. Let it continue to run for a bit and monitor it.
Click to expand...

I used a syringe to saturate water on the fins before closing it up but yeah its possible though I expected it to be free of any air pockets since doing the 24hrs leak test at full pump speed. I installed the U12S again as I had to double check I recorded the correct temps. I'll just run it outside of the case for now then maybe reinstall it a few days after.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I used a syringe to saturate water on the fins before closing it up but yeah its possible though I expected it to be free of any air pockets since doing the 24hrs leak test at full pump speed. I installed the U12S again as I had to double check I recorded the correct temps. I'll just run it outside of the case for now then maybe reinstall it a few days after.


did you replace any tubing.. I've had little shavings from tube ends when ive cut get in the block fins and once i got a shaving in there from putting a tube back on a fitting at an odd angle... if you can't get temps down could be something simple like that


----------



## d3v0

My H320 X2 arrives today. With it being delivered via mail and the weather being so frigid - about 6F - are there any steps you would recommend I take before installing? Specifically, should I drain/refill the reservoir or just allow it to gradually return to room temperature while I prepare my PC for installation? Thanks! I am extremely unfamiliar with how to work a water cooling system, since I have only owned an H50 so far. If I need to get more fill for it, is it distilled water, or something else?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> My H320 X2 arrives today. With it being delivered via mail and the weather being so frigid - about 6F - are there any steps you would recommend I take before installing? Specifically, should I drain/refill the reservoir or just allow it to gradually return to room temperature while I prepare my PC for installation? Thanks! I am extremely unfamiliar with how to work a water cooling system, since I have only owned an H50 so far. If I need to get more fill for it, is it distilled water, or something else?


Let it warm up and settle into room temp for a day. You can top off with distilled, but that won't be necessary unless something went very wrong.


----------



## d3v0

Awesome, thank you for the advice. +1!


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> My H320 X2 arrives today. With it being delivered via mail and the weather being so frigid - about 6F - are there any steps you would recommend I take before installing? Specifically, should I drain/refill the reservoir or just allow it to gradually return to room temperature while I prepare my PC for installation? Thanks! I am extremely unfamiliar with how to work a water cooling system, since I have only owned an H50 so far. If I need to get more fill for it, is it distilled water, or something else?


Hi,
Enjoy natures cooled liquid a lot of people do it intentionally


----------



## d3v0

Anyone wanna hazard a guess how much the H320 X2 will improve my temps? Currently, one of my cores is hitting 97c on my 3700K, which is at 1.21v @4.4ghz.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'd guess 3 times better than a H50 seeing the rad is 3 times larger and quality wise more than that between the two


----------



## candy_van

Are they discontinuing the newer models as well or just all OOS?
Was looking at a H220 X2 to replace my old H100i but no such luck on it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Anyone wanna hazard a guess how much the H320 X2 will improve my temps? Currently, one of my cores is hitting 97c on my 3700K, which is at 1.21v @4.4ghz.


Wow that is high.
Depending on your ambient temps and then a little on the airflow through the case your temps should be really awesome afterwards. My rooms ambient temp is approximately 25 deg cel (75 deg F) and my cores are averaged at 27 deg cel (no load basic web browsing), but it never goes above 65 deg even on the most demanding stress tests or benchmarks. I currently have my 4930k OC'd to 4.2ghz but it was at 4.4ghz with no real temp difference. But I also only have the H240-X (not the X2) for my CPU. Your temps should be a little better than mine if at the very least comparable.


----------



## rfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Are they discontinuing the newer models as well or just all OOS?
> Was looking at a H220 X2 to replace my old H100i but no such luck on it.


Probably low stock, Performance PC has both of the H220 X2 in stock.


----------



## d3v0

Answer in the difference between H50 and H320 X2 - only about 13 degrees celcius! Could be because its currently mounted as intake and I need to swap the helix fans out for exhaust.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Answer in the difference between H50 and H320 X2 - only about 13 degrees celcius! Could be because its currently mounted as intake and I need to swap the helix fans out for exhaust.


Ok so what are your idle temps and stress test temps?


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Ok so what are your idle temps and stress test temps?




Load temps are with P95 blend for 5-6 minutes. Case open.

Is there a possible bios setting thats causing 3 cores to be super hot, and one cool? I mean, looking at this, the 64c load time is what I expected to see, across all cores.

The temps prior were 97c, so on some cores, its barely an improvement. the block is on super solid - except that hand screwing in the screws for the back plate didnt feel great, so i made double sure they really locked in. fans are at 100%.

Edit: what is the best way to control the fan speed? I set it to "manual - maximum speed 75%" in the bios, but it still spins up at eleventy billion RPM And makes a ton of noise. I have the splitter all hooked up correctly, but both pump and fans are tied to PWM, I feel like I am at the mercy of the motherboard unless I disable the fan speed and just sit listening to loudness.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Answer in the difference between H50 and H320 X2 - only about 13 degrees celcius! Could be because its currently mounted as intake and I need to swap the helix fans out for exhaust.


Intake or exhaust should make almost no difference if your case airflow is setup correctly. 2-3C at most.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> 
> 
> Load temps are with P95 blend for 5-6 minutes. Case open.
> 
> Is there a possible bios setting thats causing 3 cores to be super hot, and one cool? I mean, looking at this, the 64c load time is what I expected to see, across all cores.
> 
> The temps prior were 97c, so on some cores, its barely an improvement. the block is on super solid - except that hand screwing in the screws for the back plate didnt feel great, so i made double sure they really locked in. fans are at 100%.
> 
> Edit: what is the best way to control the fan speed? I set it to "manual - maximum speed 75%" in the bios, but it still spins up at eleventy billion RPM And makes a ton of noise. I have the splitter all hooked up correctly, but both pump and fans are tied to PWM, I feel like I am at the mercy of the motherboard unless I disable the fan speed and just sit listening to loudness.


What MB are you using? And what fan header on said MB are you using? It sound like you are not getting an actual PWM signal to the hub.

Also.....what version of P95 are you using? If you are using later than 26.6, try 26.6 and see how your temps are. Or, better yet, run a stress test that is a bit more indicative of real world loads like AIDA64, OCCT or IBT. You have an issue somewhere, but it needs to get narrowed down. 4.4/1.21V should be nowhere near those temps on that CPU.

While there could be a BIOS setting that is lagging one core, it is unlikely. Bad TIM on the IHS is the more likely culprit and was not uncommon on the 3770K. Again....without knowing what MB, can't help you there.


----------



## d3v0

It's the Asus p8z68v-Pro Gen3 in my sig! I think you're right and not that it's a botched delid. I'm going to send it back.

Re: control - the splitter is plugged into CPU_fan header.

Chasing this issue led me to tighten down the screws and it broke one of the thumbscrews that goes into the backplate. Anyone know where to get one fast?



http://imgur.com/7L09j


----------



## shamus20

has anyone tried to install the h220x2 on a x299 motherboard?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> has anyone tried to install the h220x2 on a x299 motherboard?


From what I've read it appears that the mounting system for X99 is the same as X299. If you still have the 2011 socket mounting brackets for the H220x2 then it should work with the new x299 motherboards.


----------



## sav4

Quick question my H240x pump needs replacing and was wondering since the loop will be open. When do hoses need replacing? Unit is about 2-2.5 years old.
Thank you
I have a option of primo chill ltr clear, mayhems ultra clear or ek zmt Black in original size ?


----------



## sav4

@EarlZ did you find any good videos on the flushing?


----------



## shadow85

I have had my Swiftech H-240X cooling my CPU since Novemeber 2014. It is 3 years now and it is still going strong, no sign of weakness. Still cools the CPU efficently as day 1, still doesn't make loud noises, no pump noises, nothing at all to show any sign of dying. And I haven't done any maintenance to it, change water or anything lol

I am actually quiet impressed. I was thinking that it should be dying soon after 3 yrs of constant use, but nope, still going strong.

Maybe I will wait till it dies if it ever does than buy another Swiftech or should I upgrade now?

Definitly going to get another Swiftech cooler when the time comes!


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I have had my Swiftech H-240X cooling my CPU since Novemeber 2014. It is 3 years now and it is still going strong, no sign of weakness. Still cools the CPU efficently as day 1, still doesn't make loud noises, no pump noises, nothing at all to show any sign of dying. And I haven't done any maintenance to it, change water or anything lol
> 
> I am actually quiet impressed. I was thinking that it should be dying soon after 3 yrs of constant use, but nope, still going strong.
> 
> Maybe I will wait till it dies if it ever does than buy another Swiftech or should I upgrade now?
> 
> Definitly going to get another Swiftech cooler when the time comes!


Yeah mine is still working but the pump stinks of burning electrical , and I have a new pump here so going to replace it before it cause damage.


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> @EarlZ did you find any good videos on the flushing?


i flushed my system about 3 weeks ago. it is really easy, if you have an extra power supply use that to refill the pump. i used swiftech hydrx-pm for the fluid. draining the system was really easy just remove the metal stopper at the top of the reservoir and tip upside down. move it around a bit to make sure you get out as much water as possible. then try to grab a small funnel (i didnt have one) and fill it up with some tap water, you will have to fill to the top of the reservoir and turn the power supply on till the water level drops to about where the pump intake is (make sure to put the stopper in before turning out, 2 turns worked for me) basically when the system is full of water run it for a little bit 5-6 minutes then dump, rinse and repeat this. it took me about 3 fills to get the colour out. then i dumped the system and put in the hydrx-pm. sorry if this seems fragmented i haven't woken up yet.
check out this video i used this as a basis for my attempt: 



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> From what I've read it appears that the mounting system for X99 is the same as X299. If you still have the 2011 socket mounting brackets for the H220x2 then it should work with the new x299 motherboards.


ok i should still have the lga 2011 bracket in with my bag of screws. looking forward to the upgrade from i7 4790k to i7 7800x.


----------



## sav4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> i flushed my system about 3 weeks ago. it is really easy, if you have an extra power supply use that to refill the pump. i used swiftech hydrx-pm for the fluid. draining the system was really easy just remove the metal stopper at the top of the reservoir and tip upside down. move it around a bit to make sure you get out as much water as possible. then try to grab a small funnel (i didnt have one) and fill it up with some tap water, you will have to fill to the top of the reservoir and turn the power supply on till the water level drops to about where the pump intake is (make sure to put the stopper in before turning out, 2 turns worked for me) basically when the system is full of water run it for a little bit 5-6 minutes then dump, rinse and repeat this. it took me about 3 fills to get the colour out. then i dumped the system and put in the hydrx-pm. sorry if this seems fragmented i haven't woken up yet.
> check out this video i used this as a basis for my attempt:
> 
> 
> 
> ok i should still have the lga 2011 bracket in with my bag of screws. looking forward to the upgrade from i7 4790k to i7 7800x.


Thanks shamus20 much appreciated


----------



## shamus20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sav4*
> 
> Thanks shamus20 much appreciated


happy to help, i couldnt find any videos or any information on how to do it so hopefully this will help anyone tune up their loop. my temps dropped about 10c on both idle and load. i would take a picture but the system i have is temporary till the 7800x arrives (current specs: i5 and gigabyte z170 gaming 5)


----------



## Snyderman34

Quick question: Would the H320 X2 work mounted vertically with the pump and res at the bottom? I have a Corsair Air 540 and I think it would be perfect (would be adding the GPU into it), but I don't know if it would affect the pump having it set that way (would it possibly starve the pump, etc)?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Quick question: Would the H320 X2 work mounted vertically with the pump and res at the bottom? I have a Corsair Air 540 and I think it would be perfect (would be adding the GPU into it), but I don't know if it would affect the pump having it set that way (would it possibly starve the pump, etc)?


This is directly from Swiftech's site. http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab5 . If you look at the image to the far left you can see that the configuration you're considering will be fine.


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> This is directly from Swiftech's site. http://www.swiftech.com/h320x2prestige.aspx#tab5 . If you look at the image to the far left you can see that the configuration you're considering will be fine.


Oh, bomb. Thank you!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Oh, bomb. Thank you!


You're welcome and for some reason the image I was looking at was flipped. It's the image on the right that shows your suggested configuration will work.


----------



## d3v0

Just dropping in to say that I dropped temps by 50 degrees celcius by using my H320X2 instead of my Corsair H50.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Just dropping in to say that I dropped temps by 50 degrees celcius by using my H320X2 instead of my Corsair H50.


Then H50 must have been dead. Seems with H50 your CPU must have been idled at about 80c..


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Then H50 must have been dead. Seems with H50 your CPU must have been idled at about 80c..


At 1.20v (4.4ghz), my 3770K hit 98c on its hottest core during Aida64 and Prime 95 Blend. Same overclock, H320 X2, it hits 48c.

Currently testing it at 4.6ghz 1.31v and its hitting 62c. Feelsogoodman


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep too bad all Swiftech items have been removed from the market in the U.S. I might of tried the 320
All MicroCenter had locally was a very small 240 so I passed back when it was in stock.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Yep too bad all Swiftech items have been removed from the market in the U.S. I might of tried the 320
> All MicroCenter had locally was a very small 240 so I passed back when it was in stock.


I found mine on ebay. it was brand new. $135.

I busted a screw, emailed Swiftech, and they had tracking for a replacement set of hardware goodies within 10 minutes. unbelievable customer service. Would love to see more in stock.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice deal I don't normally buy on eBay but that one would be a good one to go for









Now it just looks like another custom loop for my x99 soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> At 1.20v (4.4ghz), my 3770K hit 98c on its hottest core during Aida64 and Prime 95 Blend. Same overclock, H320 X2, it hits 48c.
> 
> Currently testing it at 4.6ghz 1.31v and its hitting 62c. Feelsogoodman


So almost throttling. Too hot for me.


----------



## d3v0

I was getting 4-6% throttling in Aida64 (not with general usage of course). But it had to run the fans at 100% to stay even that "cool(!)"


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Yep too bad all Swiftech items have been removed from the market in the U.S.


That never happened..... Swiftech and PPC are almost out of stock, but that does not mean they are removed from the US market. It could mean importation issues, freight issues, or, since it's right before CES, that they halted production to gear up for a new line to be introduced at CES. The last one is the running trend, btw.....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That never happened..... Swiftech and PPC are almost out of stock, but that does not mean they are removed from the US market. It could mean importation issues, freight issues, or, since it's right before CES, that they halted production to gear up for a new line to be introduced at CES. The last one is the running trend, btw.....


Not sure how Swiftech would have importation issues here in the US. The company is located in California.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not sure how Swiftech would have importation issues here in the US. The company is located in California.


Their parts manufacturing facility is in China.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Not sure how Swiftech would have importation issues here in the US. The company is located in California.


If memory serves me correctly, there was a patent issue with the original H220 kit. It had something to do with the pump being integrated into the water block. That's why all of the subsequent versions featured a pump integrated into the reservoir/radiator. This issue prevented the original H220 from being sold in the US. Again, if my memory serves me correctly. This all took place while I was working for the company.


----------



## shamus20

if i remember correctly the original h220x had a issue with cracking in cold conditions, this happened to mine. i wish i could find a pump in canada, my current (h220x2) is making a nasty racket.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That never happened..... Swiftech and PPC are almost out of stock, but that does not mean they are removed from the US market. It could mean importation issues, freight issues, or, since it's right before CES, that they halted production to gear up for a new line to be introduced at CES. The last one is the running trend, btw.....


Hi,
I was thinking if this is their website (not all that sure it is) that it's ghost town since 2014 no press releases








http://www.swiftech.com/pressreleases.aspx


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> I was thinking if this is their website (not all that sure it is) that it's ghost town since 2014 no press releases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/pressreleases.aspx


So, you are saying that the X2 and Prestige series never actually happened? And that they never released the Heirloom block or TR4 or Komodo blocks for current GPUs?









They just don't maintain the news section of their site any longer. Recent news is on the front page and then bumps to individual product pages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamus20*
> 
> if i remember correctly the original h220x had a issue with cracking in cold conditions, this happened to mine. i wish i could find a pump in canada, my current (h220x2) is making a nasty racket.


This will bolt right in - http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx .


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, you are saying that the X2 and Prestige series never actually happened? And that they never released the Heirloom block or TR4 or Komodo blocks for current GPUs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They just don't maintain the news section of their site any longer. Recent news is on the front page and then bumps to individual product pages.
> This will bolt right in - http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx .


I have a H240-X and I believe it has the MCP35X and the MCP50X will also bolt right in on this one also.

So I ask this; Will a stronger pump make for more efficient cooling?
Mine is still running smoothly and I only ask in curiosity and just in case my pump starts to go anytime soon and I can't afford a H320X2 like I want....


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I have a H240-X and I believe it has the MCP35X and the MCP50X will also bolt right in on this one also.
> 
> So I ask this; Will a stronger pump make for more efficient cooling?
> Mine is still running smoothly and I only ask in curiosity and just in case my pump starts to go anytime soon and I can't afford a H320X2 like I want....


No, all of the x series kits use the MCP50X pumps. Going with a stronger pump will only improve your cooling performance if the pump you're currently running is too weak to handle the restriction in your loop.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, all of the x series kits use the MCP50X pumps. Going with a stronger pump will only improve your cooling performance if the pump you're currently running is too weak to handle the restriction in your loop.


Cool, thanks for the correction. At least now I know that the MCP50X is the right pump for my AIO!


----------



## MonarchX

As someone who never used WC before and always stuck to air cooling, what should I know when/if moving to Swiftech H220/240/320, etc. coolers? I saw too many negative reviews about leakage and how it killed their videocards, etc. I would really like to prevent this!!!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> As someone who never used WC before and always stuck to air cooling, what should I know when/if moving to Swiftech H220/240/320, etc. coolers? I saw too many negative reviews about leakage and how it killed their videocards, etc. I would really like to prevent this!!!


There are 2000 pages here, and not a single report of a leak like that. What does that tell you?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> As someone who never used WC before and always stuck to air cooling, what should I know when/if moving to Swiftech H220/240/320, etc. coolers? I saw too many negative reviews about leakage and how it killed their videocards, etc. I would really like to prevent this!!!


There are a few precautions you need to take to ensure your AIO does not leak.
First and foremost is to run the AIO outside of your build for so long to see if it leaks or not. I do it for a few hours and have had no issues. But some recommend a day or two, it is entirely up to you.

When you first get the unit I would check all the hose connections to make sure they are all snug and secure, but don't tighten them so much that they overtighten and you strip the threads.

There are probably loads of videos on youtube that help with checking your AIO to make sure it is all nice and snug. Hopefully someone on here can chime in and post something more useful... I would but I am feeling not so well as my body tries to fight off this flu. All is good though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are 2000 pages here, and not a single report of a leak like that. What does that tell you?


There are a few reports here and there of leaks. But I believe many of them are caused by mishandling and improper mounting of the unit.


----------



## EMUracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> No, all of the x series kits use the MCP50X pumps. Going with a stronger pump will only improve your cooling performance if the pump you're currently running is too weak to handle the restriction in your loop.


Pretty sure that the Swiftech AIOs all use the MCP30 pump, a lower powered model of the MCP50X. MCP50X is about 4500rpm, MCP30 is 3000rpm.

They are based on the same design, but do not have the same power output. If you replace the AIO pump with an MCP50X, it is an upgrade in power. Not that the AIO needs it unless expanded considerably. This is the only pump that you can use to upgrade the Swiftech AIO units.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMUracing*
> 
> Pretty sure that the Swiftech AIOs all use the MCP30 pump, a lower powered model of the MCP50X. MCP50X is about 4500rpm, MCP30 is 3000rpm.
> 
> They are based on the same design, but do not have the same power output. If you replace the AIO pump with an MCP50X, it is an upgrade in power. Not that the AIO needs it unless expanded considerably. This is the only pump that you can use to upgrade the Swiftech AIO units.


You know, now that you mention it, I think you're right. The MCP50X was the stand-alone version with more performance. Thanks for reminding me and setting me straight.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> You know, now that you mention it, I think you're right. The MCP50X was the stand-alone version with more performance. Thanks for reminding me and setting me straight.


this is correct the 50x is quite a bit better i have both in my loop and the 50x appears to clear my res within .5 seconds at full speed whereas the 30 takes nearly 1.5 to clear it...i know thats not scientific but it does speak to how much better the flow is in the same loop...


----------



## jincuteguy

HI guys, does anyone know where I can purchase the H320-X2 Prestige? Been looking around and couldn't find any in stock????


----------



## Despotes

jincuteguy said:


> HI guys, does anyone know where I can purchase the H320-X2 Prestige? Been looking around and couldn't find any in stock????


Was wondering the same a month ago. Then decided to do a custom.


----------



## jincuteguy

Despotes said:


> Was wondering the same a month ago. Then decided to do a custom.


But custom is more expensive? Like $400+ for hard line


----------



## Despotes

jincuteguy said:


> But custom is more expensive? Like $400+ for hard line


I went the soft tubing route. Hard tubing looks to be more expensive with tools and everything, but looks much better.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I'd like to go hard tubing but I would probably go through a few feet of it before I got it right...lol
For those that do hard tubing what tools would I need and what tubing is recommended? I much prefer UV reactive tubing but do they have that in hard tubing?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Has anyone on here done hardline tubing with a Swiftech AIO?


----------



## Salman8506

Hey guys, Planning on buying swiftech h320 which is 3years old, Want to know if pump used on it is good and will it run for 24x7 usage ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Salman8506 said:


> Hey guys, Planning on buying swiftech h320 which is 3years old, Want to know if pump used on it is good and will it run for 24x7 usage ?


They made a couple of changes along the way on this pump, as the initial iteration ran into some issues caused by allowing the pump to run at speeds that were too low. I had a couple of the H220s that ran for several years 24/7 with no issue, one being a first rev, the other a later rev. So, hard to say. It's a good pump, and is the same used in the X and X2 series, but the implementation seemed to have taken some work top get right.


----------



## doyll

Salman8506 said:


> Hey guys, Planning on buying swiftech h320 which is 3years old, Want to know if pump used on it is good and will it run for 24x7 usage ?


I think the pump can be replaced with MCP50X pump by removing the adapter plate, which voids new pump warranty. Or you could just remove impeller from old pump and add the MCP50X into loop. 

Also, here's link to thread of user who installed actual replacement pump.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1588399-h220x-pump-replacement-process.html


----------



## Salman8506

I guess the h320 has the pump over the cpu block so it should not be easy to replace..If its replaceable i should be able to do it, I might add my 1080 to the loop at a later date.


----------



## ciarlatano

Salman8506 said:


> I guess the h320 has the pump over the cpu block so it should not be easy to replace..If its replaceable i should be able to do it, I might add my 1080 to the loop at a later date.


Actually, it is very easy. Also, I do not believe it voids the warranty on the new pump. That would be a question for Swiftech.


----------



## Salman8506

Actually i am utterly confused, i have the noctua nh-d14 right now. in aida64 load test it does 77c max on hottest core and averages between 65c-68c on load and its running at 4.6ghz with 1.21v. I can buy the old h320 or get a new h100i for same price. Any suggestions welcome. Should i hold onto my current one and replace the cooler only when i build a new system or get this old h320 or a new h110i


----------



## ciarlatano

Salman8506 said:


> Actually i am utterly confused, i have the noctua nh-d14 right now. in aida64 load test it does 77c max on hottest core and averages between 65c-68c on load and its running at 4.6ghz with 1.21v. I can buy the old h320 or get a new h100i for same price. Any suggestions welcome. Should i hold onto my current one and replace the cooler only when i build a new system or get this old h320 or a new h110i


Moving from a D14 to an H100i (or any other CLC) is really a pointless move. You wind up with essentially the same performance with far more noise, which I would gather is not the result you are looking for. While the H320 will be a bit louder than the D14, it will also offer appreciable performance gains, and will be nowhere near as loud as the 100i at like performance. Also, the H320 would allow for expansion in the future should you decide to go that way. So, the H100i nets you nothing but more noise, while the H320 has upsides. However, your temps aren't out of line, and you may benefit from simply tweaking your airflow in your case without needing to change the cooler.


----------



## doyll

Salman8506 said:


> Actually i am utterly confused, i have the noctua nh-d14 right now. in aida64 load test it does 77c max on hottest core and averages between 65c-68c on load and its running at 4.6ghz with 1.21v. I can buy the old h320 or get a new h100i for same price. Any suggestions welcome. Should i hold onto my current one and replace the cooler only when i build a new system or get this old h320 or a new h110i


What ciarlatano said .. I first miss-read H110i as H100i too.  
Changing from a good air cooler to a CLC is a big step backwards in so many ways, nigher noise levels, no better performance, way more chance of failures, way more expensive.

Why change? 65-68c are good temps and NH-D14 is still one of the best air coolers available, especially if you changed fans to something like TY-147A for a couple degrees lower temps .. or even TY-143 extreme fans which are just as quiet or quieter then what you now have below 1300rpm and will give about 8c better temps at 2500rpm .. but are quite loud at that speed .. about the same noise level as H110 .. and I'm betting NH-D14 with TY-143 fans will actually give lower temps. Of course you will need to improve case airflow to match the demands of TY-143s' 130cfm use at full speed .. so in the end you would need at least 4 new fans for about $60 .. or just use nice all the time quiet TY-147A fans on cooler and ve done with it. 

Here is link to guide to improving case airflow and getting the coolest air to cooler.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/246-...ing-airflow-cooler-fan-data.html#post22319249


----------



## Salman8506

Alright...i will tweak my setup first and see what kind of performance difference i can get.


----------



## doyll

Salman8506 said:


> Alright...i will tweak my setup first and see what kind of performance difference i can get.


Monitoring temperature of airflow into cooler is key to fnding out if case is flowing the cool air to cooler it needs. Sure, CPU temps kinda give an idea of how case is flowing air, but without actually knowing what the air temp is going into cooler versus room we really can't be sure cooler is getting near room temp air. A remote sensor thermometer like shown in guid e I gave you link to is not expensive so instead of guessing we know what the airflow temp is where senor is placed.


----------



## Salman8506

I do have a thermo sensor in place to check air temps going towards my gpu i will move it upwards to check temps of air going into the cpu cooler, I have a haf 932 and have 4 delta's blowing air out the side door as it points outside the window so the room does not heat up when i work. I stay in india so ambients are a bit on higher side, currently they are between 26-31c. in summers it goes upto 34-38 depending on the time of day. I avoid gaming during summers due to the temp rise. I am hoping to drop the temps by 8-10c per core with a reseat since i think i have applied too much tim. Will keep you guys updated


----------



## forgotten95

I don't know whether this topic living or not but i have question about pump speed. I'm using 220x2 prestige and is pump speed always 3000 rpm? And how to know cpu fan's speed? Because of using fan hub, if i know correct, i see pump rpm on hwmonitor and not the fans. Also mine cpurpm does not get lower than 1500 rpm and maximum 2200 rpm. Can't i control pump rpm and fans rpm differently? As an example, 3000k(max) rpm for pump and 800 rpm for fans (relative to temperatures).Using with 4930k v1.4 @4.4ghz
Screenshot of hwmonitor: https://imgur.com/a/uBVgL


----------



## ciarlatano

forgotten95 said:


> I don't know whether this topic living or not but i have question about pump speed. I'm using 220x2 prestige and is pump speed always 3000 rpm? And how to know cpu fan's speed? Because of using fan hub, if i know correct, i see pump rpm on hwmonitor and not the fans. Also mine cpurpm does not get lower than 1500 rpm and maximum 2200 rpm. Can't i control pump rpm and fans rpm differently? As an example, 3000k(max) rpm for pump and 800 rpm for fans (relative to temperatures).Using with 4930k v1.4 @4.4ghz
> Screenshot of hwmonitor: https://imgur.com/a/uBVgL


You can absolutely control the pump and fans on separate curves if you like. Simply plug your pump PWM cable into the CPU header directly, and use a different header for the fans. This will also allow you to have monitoring of the speeds of both.


----------



## BramSLI1

forgotten95 said:


> I don't know whether this topic living or not but i have question about pump speed. I'm using 220x2 prestige and is pump speed always 3000 rpm? And how to know cpu fan's speed? Because of using fan hub, if i know correct, i see pump rpm on hwmonitor and not the fans. Also mine cpurpm does not get lower than 1500 rpm and maximum 2200 rpm. Can't i control pump rpm and fans rpm differently? As an example, 3000k(max) rpm for pump and 800 rpm for fans (relative to temperatures).Using with 4930k v1.4 @4.4ghz
> Screenshot of hwmonitor: https://imgur.com/a/uBVgL


If you're using the included splitter you can't control the pump and fans separately. They'll simply let you control them as a percentage of the pump's speed as that is the primary connection on the PWM fan hub. To get individual control over your fans you'll need to connect them to your motherboard headers or a separate fan controller.


----------



## forgotten95

Thank you both of you for your answers, i guess i'll try it in near future.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Has anyone heard when they are going to drop the X3 series, I'm seeing some info on their site but nothing to much?


----------



## Unknownm

Okay i never thought I would have to post here. 

Current Cooler is swiftech h320 (original) had it over 3 years and just today idle temps went from 32c to 38-40c. It doesn't sound like the pump is going maybe I need to reinstall new fluid, would old fluid cause 5-10c increase?

Although yesterday it snowed and today it was 5-10c hotter. Not sure if that can cause this but still really weird


----------



## Madmaxneo

Unknownm said:


> Okay i never thought I would have to post here.
> 
> Current Cooler is swiftech h320 (original) had it over 3 years and just today idle temps went from 32c to 38-40c. It doesn't sound like the pump is going maybe I need to reinstall new fluid, would old fluid cause 5-10c increase?


Could be a few things.
Aside from it possibly being the ambient temps and ensuring your case is dust free, you should check to make sure all 3 of the fans are running ok and check your fluid level. Then I would check the thermal paste on the CPU. If all that checks out ok I'd flush, clean, then refill the radiator and res. You should do that last part anyway as the loop is due for regular maintenance, I think a general rule of thumb is about 2 years to clean and refill the loop though some do it every few months. 

FYI, I had an issue a few months ago on my H240-X back where my temps jumped like 10 to 15 degs higher, it was because one of my 2 fans died.


----------



## doyll

Unknownm said:


> Okay i never thought I would have to post here.
> 
> Current Cooler is swiftech h320 (original) had it over 3 years and just today idle temps went from 32c to 38-40c. It doesn't sound like the pump is going maybe I need to reinstall new fluid, would old fluid cause 5-10c increase?
> 
> Although yesterday it snowed and today it was 5-10c hotter. Not sure if that can cause this but still really weird


When was last time you topped up coolant, cleaned dust out of fins and fans? It might be a combination of things, inclucing the difference in temps yesterday and today.


----------



## Unknownm

Madmaxneo said:


> Could be a few things.
> Aside from it possibly being the ambient temps and ensuring your case is dust free, you should check to make sure all 3 of the fans are running ok and check your fluid level. Then I would check the thermal paste on the CPU. If all that checks out ok I'd flush, clean, then refill the radiator and res. You should do that last part anyway as the loop is due for regular maintenance, I think a general rule of thumb is about 2 years to clean and refill the loop though some do it every few months.
> 
> FYI, I had an issue a few months ago on my H240-X back where my temps jumped like 10 to 15 degs higher, it was because one of my 2 fans died.





doyll said:


> When was last time you topped up coolant, cleaned dust out of fins and fans? It might be a combination of things, inclucing the difference in temps yesterday and today.


Coolant has never been changed. I clean everything 6 months and I just pulled it out 1 month ago so it's clean.

Also got a Air compressor (x-mas gift) and been up keeping my dust so I don't think it's a collection of dust


----------



## Unknownm

So I re-applied fresh Liquid metal on Both die , IHS & Top IHS + H320 Waterblock and the results are the same

Fans taken out and plugged into motherboard to monitor all confirmed running the same speed. Pump does provide speed read outs (2 of them) Comparing old hwinfo to now and both confirm same speed (1,8xxxrpm / 2,8xxrpm).

Although its about 10c hotter (even in 0c ambient temp) could this be a coolant issue?


----------



## ciarlatano

Unknownm said:


> So I re-applied fresh Liquid metal on Both die , IHS & Top IHS + H320 Waterblock and the results are the same
> 
> Fans taken out and plugged into motherboard to monitor all confirmed running the same speed. Pump does provide speed read outs (2 of them) Comparing old hwinfo to now and both confirm same speed (1,8xxxrpm / 2,8xxrpm).
> 
> Although its about 10c hotter (even in 0c ambient temp) could this be a coolant issue?


The original H series was made to run for ~3 years before the first fluid change under ideal conditions. They did have some issues with plasticizer, unfortunately, that caused some issues. It could well be that your coolant is low, or that your coolant is breaking down, or that you have plasticizer leeching to the block. You are due for a coolant and tubing change, and I would suggest a flush with Mayhems Blitz Pt 2 for good measure. However, if you have a bad case of plasticizer leeching, you may well have to clean the inside of the block to get things back to normal.


----------



## Unknownm

ciarlatano said:


> The original H series was made to run for ~3 years before the first fluid change under ideal conditions. They did have some issues with plasticizer, unfortunately, that caused some issues. It could well be that your coolant is low, or that your coolant is breaking down, or that you have plasticizer leeching to the block. You are due for a coolant and tubing change, and I would suggest a flush with Mayhems Blitz Pt 2 for good measure. However, if you have a bad case of plasticizer leeching, you may well have to clean the inside of the block to get things back to normal.


Yeah it's been about 3 years. On and off with prime95 test (out through the 3 years) so 20-30c to 60-80c never been changed or taken apart. 

Can someone link to me a guide to clean inside of the block, flush out the loop & coolant replacement?


----------



## confed

Unknownm said:


> Yeah it's been about 3 years. On and off with prime95 test (out through the 3 years) so 20-30c to 60-80c never been changed or taken apart.
> 
> Can someone link to me a guide to clean inside of the block, flush out the loop & coolant replacement?


I did this about a year and a half ago for my original h220. When contacting Swiftech about the sediment buildup, I was directed to http://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx for cleaning/refilling the loop. Man, the gunk inside was bad and a direct cause to the higher temps. Removing the AIO and disassembling is pretty straight forward. Since I was going to flush it and add new coolant, I went ahead and bought new tubing. The old/original tubing did cause issues with buildup so I went with Primochill clear tubing. Added the orange dye to the coolant and it's been running well ever since.


----------



## Unknownm

confed said:


> I did this about a year and a half ago for my original h220. When contacting Swiftech about the sediment buildup, I was directed to http://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx for cleaning/refilling the loop. Man, the gunk inside was bad and a direct cause to the higher temps. Removing the AIO and disassembling is pretty straight forward. Since I was going to flush it and add new coolant, I went ahead and bought new tubing. The old/original tubing did cause issues with buildup so I went with Primochill clear tubing. Added the orange dye to the coolant and it's been running well ever since.


Man I wish I could buy everyone that's helped me a shot or glass of wine or one cold one.

Could you provide the correct tubing size or a guide with correct information and information on how to order in British Columbia Canada, Would one find it eBay? 

how people recommend thermal silver paste for a replacement and heavy/advanced users recommend liquid metal. Whats the liquid metal version of coolant that will work with my system to gain even better temps. I wouldn't want to burn out the motor faster so please take that into the factor. 

Also what's the liquid metal version for tubing aka less build up over stock tubing? 

Thanks I'm a Virgin when it comes to watercoolimg which is why I bought AIO and knew back in late 2014 that this day would come to haunt me. 



Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

What do we think will be the best AIO this year for noise/performance? Upcoming Swiftech x3 series or Eisbaer Extreme? Would be nice if they could get the pumps quieter. Or maybe not possible due to the way they're mounted, don't know.


----------



## ciarlatano

Perfect_Chaos said:


> What do we think will be the best AIO this year for noise/performance? Upcoming Swiftech x3 series or Eisbaer Extreme? Would be nice if they could get the pumps quieter. Or maybe not possible due to the way they're mounted, don't know.


Unless Swiftech decides to take a big step backwards......


----------



## doyll

Unknownm said:


> Yeah it's been about 3 years. On and off with prime95 test (out through the 3 years) so 20-30c to 60-80c never been changed or taken apart.
> 
> Can someone link to me a guide to clean inside of the block, flush out the loop & coolant replacement?


As already stated, definitely time to drain, flush, change hose, flush again, then refill with good coolant.

Here is link to Swiftech recommendations for cleaning. If you have low cost distilled water available, flush system with it a couple of times after cleaning, and of course use it with additive.
https://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx



Perfect_Chaos said:


> What do we think will be the best AIO this year for noise/performance? Upcoming Swiftech x3 series or Eisbaer Extreme? Would be nice if they could get the pumps quieter. Or maybe not possible due to the way they're mounted, don't know.


Like carlatano said, Swiftech is the best by far. Swiftech ump is much better pump with up to 660 liter per hour flow and 2.8 meter lift compared to Alphacool Eisbaer pump rated at 100 liter per hour and 0.6 meter lift. 

Here is a list I've compiled of AIO & CLC pump specsifications. If anyone has any other data not in list, please let me know and I'll add it.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/246-...better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data-8.html


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

doyll said:


> Like carlatano said, Swiftech is the best by far. Swiftech ump is much better pump with up to 660 liter per hour flow and 2.8 meter lift compared to Alphacool Eisbaer pump rated at 100 liter per hour and 0.6 meter lift.
> 
> Here is a list I've compiled of AIO & CLC pump specsifications. If anyone has any other data not in list, please let me know and I'll add it.
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/246-...better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data-8.html


The Eisbaer Extreme will use a D5 pump though, so for me it will come down to which is quietest but also worth it performance wise


----------



## doyll

Unknownm said:


> Man I wish I could buy everyone that's helped me a shot or glass of wine or one cold one.
> 
> Could you provide the correct tubing size or a guide with correct information and information on how to order in British Columbia Canada, Would one find it eBay?
> 
> how people recommend thermal silver paste for a replacement and heavy/advanced users recommend liquid metal. Whats the liquid metal version of coolant that will work with my system to gain even better temps. I wouldn't want to burn out the motor faster so please take that into the factor.
> 
> Also what's the liquid metal version for tubing aka less build up over stock tubing?
> 
> Thanks I'm a Virgin when it comes to watercoolimg which is why I bought AIO and knew back in late 2014 that this day would come to haunt me.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk





Perfect_Chaos said:


> The Eisbaer Extreme will use a D5 pump though, so for me it will come down to which is quietest but also worth it performance wise


Time will tell, but with a projected release date of 3rd quarter 2018 my guess is we will be lucky to see these available before Black Friday if even this year .. so not likely to be a 2018 cooler. 

Swiftech has been refining their AIO for several years now, and Aisbaer line to date is quite different, so I don't expect Alphacool be coming up with something much if any better with their first real attempt. Making a radiator with D5 pump attached (I think that's the plan??) is something new, so hard to tell what it's noise / vibration characteristics will be. 

I have be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm and really like it, but I've heard it is quieter design than other Aisbaer variants. 

Definitely looking forward to seeing what they come up with. :thumb:


----------



## ciarlatano

Perfect_Chaos said:


> The Eisbaer Extreme will use a D5 pump though, so for me it will come down to which is quietest but also worth it performance wise


Where is your source on that? The Eisbaer Extreme shown at CES didn't use a D5, it was little more than a standard Eisbaer with the pump moved to the rad to make room for more LEDs. There certainly isn't room for a D5 in this:


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

ciarlatano said:


> Where is your source on that? The Eisbaer Extreme shown at CES didn't use a D5, it was little more than a standard Eisbaer with the pump moved to the rad to make room for more LEDs. There certainly isn't room for a D5 in this


It's what they said in a direct reply to my email at least 

"Regarding the Eisbaer Extreme it will use an integrated D5 pump."


----------



## doyll

Perfect_Chaos said:


> It's what they said in a direct reply to my email at least
> 
> "Regarding the Eisbaer Extreme it will use an integrated D5 pump."


I think ciarlatano was asking for a link to where you read that. 

Here you go ciarlatano, a few lines below second image:
_"Die Teileliste der Eisbaer Extreme kann sich dabei sehen lassen: Das aktuelle Spitzenmodell Eisblock XPX (Test) übernimmt die CPU-Kühlung, ein Vollkupfer-Radiator der NexXxoS-ST30-Reihe den Wärmetransfer an die Umgebung und eine Laing D5 sorgt für den nötigen Durchfluss. Zur Belüftung des Radiators greift Alphacool auf Silent Wings von be quiet! zurück. Ummantelt werden Pumpe, Reservoir, Radiator und Lüfter von einem schwarzen Aluminium-Rahmen, was zu einer Tiefe von 6,4 cm führt. In engen Gehäusen muss zudem auf die erlaubte Länge geachtet werden – durch Reservoir und Pumpe wächst die Eisbaer Extreme 280 auf 38,6 cm Länge; die Eisbaer Extreme 240 kommt auf 34 cm."_​
Google translate:
_"The parts list of the Eisbaer Extreme can be proud of : the current top model Eisblock XPX (Test) takes over the CPU cooling, a full copper radiator of the NexXxoS-ST30 series the heat transfer to the environment and a Laing D5 provides the necessary flow. To ventilate the radiator Alphacool uses Silent Wings from be quiet! back. The pump, reservoir, radiator and fan are surrounded by a black aluminum frame, resulting in a depth of 6.4 cm. In tight housings must also be paid to the permitted length - by reservoir and pump grows the Eisbaer Extreme 280 to 38.6 cm in length; the Eisbaer Extreme 240 comes to 34 cm."
_​https://www.computerbase.de/2018-01/alphacool-eisbaer-extreme-kompaktwasserkuehlung/

But I do wonder about the use of D5 pump too. An AIO with NexXxoS-ST30 series copper radiator with built in D5 pump and reservoir, Silent Wings fans, XPS block and D5 pump for approx 230 euro for 240mm and 250 euro for 280mm sound too good to be true, and we all know what that means.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> I think ciarlatano was asking for a link to where you read that.
> 
> Here you go ciarlatano, a few lines below second image:
> _"Die Teileliste der Eisbaer Extreme kann sich dabei sehen lassen: Das aktuelle Spitzenmodell Eisblock XPX (Test) übernimmt die CPU-Kühlung, ein Vollkupfer-Radiator der NexXxoS-ST30-Reihe den Wärmetransfer an die Umgebung und eine Laing D5 sorgt für den nötigen Durchfluss. Zur Belüftung des Radiators greift Alphacool auf Silent Wings von be quiet! zurück. Ummantelt werden Pumpe, Reservoir, Radiator und Lüfter von einem schwarzen Aluminium-Rahmen, was zu einer Tiefe von 6,4 cm führt. In engen Gehäusen muss zudem auf die erlaubte Länge geachtet werden – durch Reservoir und Pumpe wächst die Eisbaer Extreme 280 auf 38,6 cm Länge; die Eisbaer Extreme 240 kommt auf 34 cm."_​
> Google translate:
> _"The parts list of the Eisbaer Extreme can be proud of : the current top model Eisblock XPX (Test) takes over the CPU cooling, a full copper radiator of the NexXxoS-ST30 series the heat transfer to the environment and a Laing D5 provides the necessary flow. To ventilate the radiator Alphacool uses Silent Wings from be quiet! back. The pump, reservoir, radiator and fan are surrounded by a black aluminum frame, resulting in a depth of 6.4 cm. In tight housings must also be paid to the permitted length - by reservoir and pump grows the Eisbaer Extreme 280 to 38.6 cm in length; the Eisbaer Extreme 240 comes to 34 cm."
> _​https://www.computerbase.de/2018-01/alphacool-eisbaer-extreme-kompaktwasserkuehlung/
> 
> But I do wonder about the use of D5 pump too. An AIO with NexXxoS-ST30 series copper radiator with built in D5 pump and reservoir, Silent Wings fans, XPS block and D5 pump for approx 230 euro for 240mm and 250 euro for 280mm sound too good to be true, and we all know what that means.


Thanks. I'll believe it when I see it. Why would Alphacool be using an actual Laing D5, when they are manufacturing their own cheap knockoff of a D5? That makes no sense.

And knowing AC, even if they do use those parts, they will find a way to have it be really disappointing.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

I do have to wonder why some of these Swiftech coolers come with eloop fans though, in pull right? eloop fans create a bit of an annoying noise in pull. I think it goes away completely in push though.


----------



## ciarlatano

Perfect_Chaos said:


> I do have to wonder why some of these Swiftech coolers come with eloop fans though, in pull right? eloop fans create a bit of an annoying noise in pull. I think it goes away completely in push though.


They are in push.


----------



## Perfect_Chaos

ciarlatano said:


> They are in push.


No good for the top of the case though :/ though if using a 360 i suppose 2 of them can be mounted underneath in push.

Anyone have a timeframe for these coolers?


----------



## Unknownm

well it's gonna take some time to order the coolant.

Question: Can I remove the waterblock and clean the junk on the heatsink without loosing the liquid? wanna be able to use it still


----------



## BramSLI1

Unknownm said:


> well it's gonna take some time to order the coolant.
> 
> Question: Can I remove the waterblock and clean the junk on the heatsink without loosing the liquid? wanna be able to use it still


No, not really. I've done this many times myself as I used to be Swiftech's customer support and RMA rep. You're going to lose some coolant when you open the block up. My suggestion would be to replace the coolant anyway if you're going to do that.


----------



## v1ral

Does anyone know if I can get replacement o-rings for my Apogee XL? My o-rings expanded and can't get them to fit properly.


----------



## ciarlatano

v1ral said:


> Does anyone know if I can get replacement o-rings for my Apogee XL? My o-rings expanded and can't get them to fit properly.


Yes.Contact Swiftech customer support.


----------



## papant7

Hi guys I am planning on buying a Thermaltake tower 900 and will expand temporarily my H240x2 into this. I plan on using hard tubing. Has anyone tried doing it? Also if I put another reservoir on the front will the pump still be adequate? Plan B is to dual loop and have the 2nd res be for the GPU and keep the H240x2 for the CPU (will eventually upgrade to a monoblock as well) and just change the tube to hard line. Last but not the least is it possible to combine flexi and hardline? If yes I plan to use the builtin flexi for connecting the rad to the front as hard tubes are quite expensive here by $5 per cut and they wont be seen anyway.


----------



## shamus20

i am sorry to say, but after issues with my swiftech h220x2 (incredibly loud pump) and lack of support from swiftech when it came to ordering a replacement or even getting a warranty have given up on getting this thing working. here is the last 3 iterations of my system before i took it out. one is the i7-4790k, then 17-7800x, and newest one was when i upgraded to a gtx 1080 ti


----------



## ciarlatano

shamus20 said:


> i am sorry to say, but after issues with my swiftech h220x2 (incredibly loud pump) and lack of support from swiftech when it came to ordering a replacement or even getting a warranty have given up on getting this thing working. here is the last 3 iterations of my system before i took it out. one is the i7-4790k, then 17-7800x, and newest one was when i upgraded to a gtx 1080 ti


That is really terrible to hear. I have had two Swiftech warranty issues, but they go pretty far back to the first run of H220s so things have obviously changed over there. Both took one quick phone call for the RMA, and both were processed with same or next day turn around time. I believe I paid shipping on one of them, since my claim was total user error on my part, and there was no issue with the unit.
@kats - what is going on over there?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I messaged swiftech never got a response lol so that pretty much sums up support in a nut shell = none


----------



## shamus20

ciarlatano said:


> shamus20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> i am sorry to say, but after issues with my swiftech h220x2 (incredibly loud pump) and lack of support from swiftech when it came to ordering a replacement or even getting a warranty have given up on getting this thing working. here is the last 3 iterations of my system before i took it out. one is the i7-4790k, then 17-7800x, and newest one was when i upgraded to a gtx 1080 ti
> 
> 
> 
> That is really terrible to hear. I have had two Swiftech warranty issues, but they go pretty far back to the first run of H220s so things have obviously changed over there. Both took one quick phone call for the RMA, and both were processed with same or next day turn around time. I believe I paid shipping on one of them, since my claim was total user error on my part, and there was no issue with the unit.
> 
> @kats - what is going on over there?
Click to expand...

This is the second issue I have had with swiftech, the first was a leaky reservoir on the h220x and I thought this one would be different. First one got resolved quickly but this time he told me to add some dishsoap and get back to him, But as i had said there was no reply from swiftech. But since it has been causing me to stay up at night (still to cold at night to turn PC off, and I can't hear almost any audio unless the volume is at least half. I decided to try the new ekwb a240g. And it's awesome, a little hotter in the cpu department but I love it.


----------



## mechavore884

hmmm when i got my pump replaced H220 it was relatively painless, but seeing what @shamus20 is going through almost makes me reluctant to work with them again.


----------



## shamus20

mechavore884 said:


> hmmm when i got my pump replaced H220 it was relatively painless, but seeing what @shamus20 is going through almost makes me reluctant to work with them again.


 as bad as my experience has been, I still believe in developing your own opinion of a company through experience. The first time my h220x cracked they were quick for a return that's why I bought the x2. Sadly this time my experience was not as great.


----------



## SeriousTom

I was wondering if anyone has any information on Drive X3 Edge.
Swiftech website has information about it but it's not in their store.
Has anyone heard about when there might be a release date ?


----------



## LazarusIV

SeriousTom said:


> I was wondering if anyone has any information on Drive X3 Edge.
> Swiftech website has information about it but it's not in their store.
> Has anyone heard about when there might be a release date ?


Dude, I came here to ask the same question... the website looks great and the product looks really good and seems compelling... @kats around anywhere?

Edit: Silly new website makes adding stuff to your post a giant PITA


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all I have experienced an increase in idle/low use temps. normally the temps sit between high 20's low 30's but now they are between the mid 30's to high 30's. I first thought I might need to reapply some TIM or my water level was low. When I opened my case I could hear the H140-X that is cooling my GPU but my H240-X (which is close to 2 years older) was almost completely silent. I first thought maybe my pump failed. But when I ran the Intel Burn test my max temps were lower than what they would normally be as I hit a high of 61 deg where normally that would be about 65 deg. So I went from the standard Intel Burn test to the next one up. I stopped the test and restarted it so I could check the box to keep a log. I went to get some water to drink and when I came back my system was recovering from a bsod. My system is in my sig, but my OC is set to 4.2 ghz though I could easily run it at 4.4ghz with no issues. I ran it at 4.4ghz for about 7 months until last summer when I dropped it to 4.2ghz to reduce my temps some, I never put it back to 4.4ghz. 

The bsod issue is not why I am here but if anyone has any ideas please let me know. FYI my system passes all other tests (stress, benchmarks, memtest, etc) just fine.

What could cause my idle and low use temps to go up between 7 to 10 degrees but my max temps seem normal if not lower? Could this possible be an issue with the pump?







LazarusIV said:


> Dude, I came here to ask the same question... the website looks great and the product looks really good and seems compelling... @kats around anywhere?
> 
> Edit: Silly new website makes adding stuff to your post a giant PITA


I agree. I have been to their new site and it looks way better than what it did. But there is no real info on the X3 drive.

I also agree that getting used to OCN's new system is definitely a PITA!


----------



## ciarlatano

Have you checked your CPU usage during idle? What you are describing is often caused by an increase in idle CPU usage caused by Windows or a program, and not by a cooler issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> Have you checked your CPU usage during idle? What you are describing is often caused by an increase in idle CPU usage caused by Windows or a program, and not by a cooler issue.


CPU usage is normal. When at idle it stays at about 1% to 4%, like it is now. Temps are in the mid 30's which is slightly better than being in the high 30's like it was a few days ago. The ambient temps in the room have been a bit chilly lately, but today it is slightly warmer, probably about 4 degs warmer. 
Hmmm, I did just notice something. My clock speeds are adjusting much better with the system usage. Before it would stick at my minimal OC of 4.2ghz most of the time but now I see it dropping down to 1.2ghz quite. I wonder if it has something to do with a recent windows update....


----------



## diggiddi

I have a glacer 240l with an alphacool 240 rad cooling my cpu, would it be a good idea to add another, say 45mm 240 or 360 rad and a gpu block?


----------



## ciarlatano

diggiddi said:


> I have a glacer 240l with an alphacool 240 rad cooling my cpu, would it be a good idea to add another, say 45mm 240 or 360 rad and a gpu block?


If your goal is to liquid cool your GPU, then, yes, it is a good idea. 

My only concern would be the age of the 240L and the longevity issues we have seen with all but the last rev of the unit. But, no pump lasts forever, and I am sure you realize this. I'm not saying the addition will make the situation worse, just that the 240L is getting up in age.


----------



## diggiddi

Thx, I was thinking of adding another pump into the fray but not decided yet, maybe one of those xspc ion pump reservoir combos cos of size and space constraints


----------



## Unknownm

Hey guys so now I got my second job rolling out it's time to buy everything to flush out my AIO 

2 gallons of distilled water (1ga for flushing, 1ga for mixing)
1 bottle of this

After flushing the system = 1/2 ga of distilled water + Swiftech HydrX mixed together?


Thanks


----------



## Shadowarez

Was wondering if I can use that descaler they use on kuerig to clean a H240X. It's got floaters.


----------



## ciarlatano

Unknownm said:


> Hey guys so now I got my second job rolling out it's time to buy everything to flush out my AIO
> 
> 2 gallons of distilled water (1ga for flushing, 1ga for mixing)
> 1 bottle of this
> 
> After flushing the system = 1/2 ga of distilled water + Swiftech HydrX mixed together?
> 
> 
> Thanks





Shadowarez said:


> Was wondering if I can use that descaler they use on kuerig to clean a H240X. It's got floaters.


I would recommend Mayhems Blitz Part 2 to both of you, far more effective than just distilled or just a descaler. If you do want to use a descaler, simple citric acid is ~1/10 the cost of the Kuerig branded descaler and is the same thing.
@Unknownm - see this page for mixing instructions - http://www.swiftech.com/hydrxcoolant.aspx


----------



## nado4ilhas

hey guys how is better Swiftech h240 x2 is or swiftech h220x with Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm is good too?
I have one h220x and i look for one better...


----------



## nado4ilhas

Hey guys, I have one h220x, this screew kit mount work in LGA 1150 motheboards or i have buy another kit? 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-A...143547&hash=item3a798fb7aa:g:~IcAAMXQOQdRGvVk


----------



## doyll

nado4ilhas said:


> hey guys how is better Swiftech h240 x2 is or swiftech h220x with Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm is good too?
> I have one h220x and i look for one better...


Obviously the H240 X2 with it's 280mm radiator and 2x 140mm fans has more cooling area so cools better than H220X or H220 X2 with 240mm radiator and 2x 120mm fans. H220 has 288 cu cm versus H240 having 392 cu cm with both being 28mm thick. H240 has 36% more cooling area.


----------



## jincuteguy

So is Swiftech coming out with a new cooler soon?


----------



## doyll

jincuteguy said:


> So is Swiftech coming out with a new cooler soon?


X2 is what is current system 
http://site.swiftech.com/drivexkits/#aio​X3 is coming soon. 
http://site.swiftech.com/drivexkits/#x3​


----------



## LazarusIV

doyll said:


> X2 is what is current system
> http://site.swiftech.com/drivexkits/#aio​X3 is coming soon.
> http://site.swiftech.com/drivexkits/#x3​


Confirmed, new units in the next couple of months. Stand by to stand by!


----------



## Shadowarez

*Thank you*

Ciarlatan thanks for the tip I'll grab that and do some serious cleaning of my H240x.


----------



## shadow85

sav4 said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *shadow85*
> 
> I have had my Swiftech H-240X cooling my CPU since Novemeber 2014. It is 3 years now and it is still going strong, no sign of weakness. Still cools the CPU efficently as day 1, still doesn't make loud noises, no pump noises, nothing at all to show any sign of dying. And I haven't done any maintenance to it, change water or anything lol
> 
> I am actually quiet impressed. I was thinking that it should be dying soon after 3 yrs of constant use, but nope, still going strong.
> 
> Maybe I will wait till it dies if it ever does than buy another Swiftech or should I upgrade now?
> 
> Definitly going to get another Swiftech cooler when the time comes!
> 
> Yeah mine is still working but the pump stinks of burning electrical , and I have a new pump here so going to replace it before it cause damage.


Is it difficult to replace the pump? I have never done that before and wondering if I should too?

Or I may just purchase another AIO swiftech?


----------



## shadow85

My H240-X is still running strong

I am reaching 72c on the hottest core after a few hours of gaming with 5930K @ 4.5GHz @ 1.337v

Is this a good result or should my temps be lower?

I haven't run a pure bench/stressing app, only games so far. I fear a stress test will show close too or higher than 80c.


----------



## confed

shadow85 said:


> My H240-X is still running strong
> 
> I am reaching 72c on the hottest core after a few hours of gaming with 5930K @ 4.5GHz @ 1.337v
> 
> Is this a good result or should my temps be lower?
> 
> I haven't run a pure bench/stressing app, only games so far. I fear a stress test will show close too or higher than 80c.


When is the last time you cleaned it? Seems like it should be cooler under gaming conditions. Is the 5930k delidded?


----------



## Madmaxneo

shadow85 said:


> My H240-X is still running strong
> 
> I am reaching 72c on the hottest core after a few hours of gaming with 5930K @ 4.5GHz @ 1.337v
> 
> Is this a good result or should my temps be lower?
> 
> I haven't run a pure bench/stressing app, only games so far. I fear a stress test will show close too or higher than 80c.


That does seem a bit high IMO. What game(s) are you running to get low 70's on? 

I'd run a stress test and see how high your temps get just to see.


----------



## ciarlatano

confed said:


> When is the last time you cleaned it? Seems like it should be cooler under gaming conditions. Is the 5930k delidded?





Madmaxneo said:


> That does seem a bit high IMO. What game(s) are you running to get low 70's on?
> 
> I'd run a stress test and see how high your temps get just to see.


Wouldn't be high at all if, for example, it was installed in the top of a 750D with the fans set to run at low speeds. Actually, those temps would be admirable under that circumstance. I'm curious to see what the actual circumstance is.


----------



## Gabkicks

ciarlatano said:


> Quote: Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> it looks like the pump has maybe died for my h220x :-( i have had it for over 2 yrs now. Anyone know if they will replace or do i have to buy a new one?
> 
> 
> Have you contacted customer service?


sorry i thought i replied. it turned out my loop; especially the cpu block was clogged BAAADLY with what i assume is algae. After clearing everything and using fresh fluid, it seems to be running ok. I'd never opened my 220x before.


----------



## nado4ilhas

I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?

1-which fluid is recommended?
2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


----------



## KillerBee33

nado4ilhas said:


> I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?
> 
> 1-which fluid is recommended?
> 2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


Using this for almost 2 years without drain https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QDSH8K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CPU+GPU Loop.


----------



## Madmaxneo

nado4ilhas said:


> I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?
> 
> 1-which fluid is recommended?
> 2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


In my experience the block that comes with the H220-X is just as good if not better than any other block out there. In the comparisons I've read your block beat out the EK supremacy on every test. I purchased a Heatkiller IV pro block and my temps were exactly the same as my Swiftech block and the Heatkiller IV pro tends to get better temps than the other top name brands out there.

Yes it is easy to drain and flush your Swiftech unit. You have to remove it and open the drain plug over your sink. I would also suggest taking the tubes off and replacing them with other tubing and taking the block apart and cleaning that really well.

EDIT: I also recommend running a cleaning solution in the loop for a day after all of the above. Plus I do in no way recommend anything other than distilled water and some good cleaning additives. Using any fluid that has coloring or anything else in it can reduce the life of your pump and clog the system more easily.


----------



## ciarlatano

nado4ilhas said:


> I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?
> 
> 1-which fluid is recommended?
> 2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


1. Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 specifically for the X series in a number of publications. They also state that any fluid with nano particles is likely to cause pump damage.
2. Of course you can switch the CPU block. This is open loop, not a CLC. The Supremacy EVO should drop temps by a couple of degrees under load, but it is an older design likely seeing it's last days. Heatkiller and the XSPC Raystorm Pro are newer and more effective blocks.

If you are doing a fluid change, you should really do a flush with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 if you want to be thorough. You should also take the opportunity to change out the tubing and cut it to proper lengths for your build.


----------



## ciarlatano

nado4ilhas said:


> I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?
> 
> 1-which fluid is recommended?
> 2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


1. Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 specifically for the X series in a number of publications. They also state that any fluid with nano particles is likely to cause pump damage.
2. Of course you can switch the CPU block. This is open loop, not a CLC. The Supremacy EVO should drop temps by a couple of degrees under load, but it is an older design likely seeing it's last days. Heatkiller and the XSPC Raystorm Pro are newer and more effective blocks.

If you are doing a fluid change, you should really do a flush with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 if you want to be thorough. You should also take the opportunity to change out the tubing and cut it to proper lengths for your build.


----------



## ciarlatano

nado4ilhas said:


> I have a h220x, I think the pump is in trouble because it is heating up a lot at Full load when I overclock, is it easy to change the liquid?
> 
> 1-which fluid is recommended?
> 2- Is possible i change the waterblock by an ek supremacy? Does it improve more performance?


1. Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 specifically for the X series in a number of publications. They also state that any fluid with nano particles is likely to cause pump damage.
2. Of course you can switch the CPU block. This is open loop, not a CLC. The Supremacy EVO should drop temps by a couple of degrees under load, but it is an older design likely seeing it's last days. Heatkiller and the XSPC Raystorm Pro are newer and more effective blocks.

If you are doing a fluid change, you should really do a flush with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 if you want to be thorough. You should also take the opportunity to change out the tubing and cut it to proper lengths for your build.


----------



## nado4ilhas

ciarlatano said:


> 1. Swiftech recommends Mayhems X1 specifically for the X series in a number of publications. They also state that any fluid with nano particles is likely to cause pump damage.
> 2. Of course you can switch the CPU block. This is open loop, not a CLC. The Supremacy EVO should drop temps by a couple of degrees under load, but it is an older design likely seeing it's last days. Heatkiller and the XSPC Raystorm Pro are newer and more effective blocks.
> 
> If you are doing a fluid change, you should really do a flush with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 if you want to be thorough. You should also take the opportunity to change out the tubing and cut it to proper lengths for your build.




I would like to change tubes, what fittings do I need to buy for work with this tube?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm

I need this adapter to work in tube 5/8" x 3/8 or dont need it ?
http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


----------



## ciarlatano

nado4ilhas said:


> I would like to change tubes, what fittings do I need to buy for work with this tube?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm
> 
> I need this adapter to work in tube 5/8" x 3/8 or dont need it ?
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


Duraclear turns yellow *very* quickly. If you are dead set on clear, you may want to do some research on a better option. I'm not a fan of clear tubing, so I really haven't used enough to recommend one, but I can tell you that Duraclear and XSPC do not stay clear.

You don't _need_ any fittings to change tubing, the included fittings are for 10/16mm (3/8 x 5/8) tubing. Nor do you _need_ the adapter. However, if you want to change fittings for aesthetics, choose a good 10/16 compression fitting from Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech, Barrow or Monsoon (if you like the look). You will need two for the CPU block and one for the rad/pump. The connection on the pump where the adapter would fit can not be changes, as the adapter is long discontinued, and is also not visible. Since you can't see it, not much point in changing it anyway.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Duraclear turns yellow *very* quickly. If you are dead set on clear, you may want to do some research on a better option. I'm not a fan of clear tubing, so I really haven't used enough to recommend one, but I can tell you that Duraclear and XSPC do not stay clear.
> 
> You don't _need_ any fittings to change tubing, the included fittings are for 10/16mm (3/8 x 5/8) tubing. Nor do you _need_ the adapter. However, if you want to change fittings for aesthetics, choose a good 10/16 compression fitting from Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech, Barrow or Monsoon (if you like the look). You will need two for the CPU block and one for the rad/pump. The connection on the pump where the adapter would fit can not be changes, as the adapter is long discontinued, and is also not visible. Since you can't see it, not much point in changing it anyway.


Why not just get these ? http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing-1.aspx
Again, it's been 2 years no change of color here.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Why not just get these ? http://www.swiftech.com/TruFlextubing-1.aspx
> Again, it's been 2 years no change of color here.


I've seen a number of people recommend the Mayhems over the Duraclear, so add you to the list.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> Duraclear turns yellow *very* quickly. If you are dead set on clear, you may want to do some research on a better option. I'm not a fan of clear tubing, so I really haven't used enough to recommend one, but I can tell you that Duraclear and XSPC do not stay clear.
> 
> You don't _need_ any fittings to change tubing, the included fittings are for 10/16mm (3/8 x 5/8) tubing. Nor do you _need_ the adapter. However, if you want to change fittings for aesthetics, choose a good 10/16 compression fitting from Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech, Barrow or Monsoon (if you like the look). You will need two for the CPU block and one for the rad/pump. The connection on the pump where the adapter would fit can not be changes, as the adapter is long discontinued, and is also not visible. Since you can't see it, not much point in changing it anyway.


What he said ^^


nado4ilhas said:


> I would like to change tubes, what fittings do I need to buy for work with this tube?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm
> 
> I need this adapter to work in tube 5/8" x 3/8 or dont need it ?
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx


But there is good clear tubing out there that will stay clear longer but I personally do not know clear tubing. I've used the Primoflex advanced LRT tubing brilliant UV blue (I use UV lights) in my loops for about 2 1/2 years now with no issues in discoloration or clogging. I recommend asking around about the best tubing which is how I discovered the Primoflex. 
For fittings I use these NZXT compression fittings along with some revolvable angled compression fittings that I do not know the manufacturer of. They were inexpensive and have the same black chrome finish as the XPSC ones in the link, they may be the Phobya (not sure as they are not labeled). They look like these and these.


----------



## KillerBee33

If he's changing CPU block and using Vinyl/PVC Tubing there's really no need for elbow fittings, just use Swiftechs http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx They not really BLACK but kind of DARK NIKEL color


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> If he's changing CPU block and using Vinyl/PVC Tubing there's really no need for elbow fittings, just use Swiftechs http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx They not really BLACK but kind of DARK NIKEL color


I use elbow fittings because it causes less bend in the tubing which gives a better less cluttered look. I also have a section of tubing that is less than 3 inches so the angled (elbow) fittings help a lot. I started with simple straight fittings but with the angled (elbow) fittings it makes it much easier to set things in and around the tubing much easier.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> I use elbow fittings because it causes less bend in the tubing which gives a better less cluttered look. I also have a section of tubing that is less than 3 inches so the angled (elbow) fittings help a lot. I started with simple straight fittings but with the angled (elbow) fittings it makes it much easier to set things in and around the tubing much easier.


Heh, I wanted to do that for a clean look but that would cost me a lot in fittings  well at least for what I had in mind...


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> If he's changing CPU block and using Vinyl/PVC Tubing there's really no need for elbow fittings, just use Swiftechs http://www.swiftech.com/3-8x5-8inch-LokSeal-Compression-fitting.aspx They not really BLACK but kind of DARK NIKEL color


I still don't get why he's changing the CPU block. Going to the Supremacy EVO essentially nets absolutely nothing in regular use. 1-2 degrees in benchmarks, but what does that matter in your daily use?
@Madmaxneo - you have the HeatKiller, which is a measurable better block than the Supremacy EVO, did that even make a noticable difference?

And before anyone starts with the "why are you hating on EK" bunk, I would like to point out that I'm currently using a Supremacy EVO, and that it replaced an Apogee XL2 in my rig (I broke the mount and had the EK block on hand, only reason for the change), so I do know that there is incredibly minimal difference from experience.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> I still don't get why he's changing the CPU block. Going to the Supremacy EVO essentially nets absolutely nothing in regular use. 1-2 degrees in benchmarks, but what does that matter in your daily use?
> 
> @Madmaxneo - you have the HeatKiller, which is a measurable better block than the Supremacy EVO, did that even make a noticable difference?
> 
> And before anyone starts with the "why are you hating on EK" bunk, I would like to point out that I'm currently using a Supremacy EVO, and that it replaced an Apogee XL2 in my rig (I broke the mount and had the EK block on hand, only reason for the change), so I do know that there is incredibly minimal difference from experience.


My Apogee XL2 isn't doing that great of a job here...gets my [email protected] to mid 70's in benches.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> My Apogee XL2 isn't doing that great of a job here...gets my [email protected] to mid 70's in benches.


Why would you think this is only the block to blame? And would a 1-2 degree drop in benches with no other noticeable improvement really be an enticement for you to change it? Of course it wouldn't.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Why would you think this is only the block to blame? And would a 1-2 degree drop in benches with no other noticeable improvement really be an enticement for you to change it? Of course it wouldn't.


I'm not saying im changing it , just that its not great. Might've been better if it was a CPU only but im not wasting time to find out


----------



## confed

KillerBee33 said:


> I'm not saying im changing it , just that its not great. Might've been better if it was a CPU only but im not wasting time to find out


Is your 6700k delidded?


----------



## KillerBee33

confed said:


> Is your 6700k delidded?


It's not.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> I still don't get why he's changing the CPU block. Going to the Supremacy EVO essentially nets absolutely nothing in regular use. 1-2 degrees in benchmarks, but what does that matter in your daily use?
> 
> @Madmaxneo - you have the HeatKiller, which is a measurable better block than the Supremacy EVO, did that even make a noticable difference?
> 
> And before anyone starts with the "why are you hating on EK" bunk, I would like to point out that I'm currently using a Supremacy EVO, and that it replaced an Apogee XL2 in my rig (I broke the mount and had the EK block on hand, only reason for the change), so I do know that there is incredibly minimal difference from experience.


At low temps there is no difference whatsoever. Under max load I hit about 3 to 4 degrees lesser than with the original Swiftech block. My max temp usually run in the low 60's. My max temps are in the low 60's if I use either a 4.4ghz OC or a 4.0ghz OC (it's currently set to 4.2ghz).


----------



## KillerBee33

Can someone suggest/recommend proper H320x2 pump speed/RPM for a CPU/GPU loop with an extra 240 radiator...cant seem to manage it still.


----------



## spin5000

Just want to say I'm using the original Swiftech H320 in push/pull config (original fans). It's the updated version with the later, more reliable pump and, I think, 1 more cable attached to it (this is the easiest way to tell if you have the later units). I've had it for years now and it's working amazing and has been for years.

I moved off the Intel HEDT line and onto the "mainstream" line without the soldered CPUs and therefore crappy temps and yet I can barely crack 70 degrees on more than 3 cores on an i7-8700K @ 1.335 volts @ 5.1 GHz during 10 runs of Realbench x.264 video decoding and wPrime. I bet my gaming temps probably don't even crack 60 or 65 degrees but not sure (will do Battlefield 4 64-player multiplayer tests later this week).

I'm also running the cooler as an exhaust or else it would be even cooler by, I'm guessing, 1-3 degrees. I love this cooler!

http://www.gdm.or.jp/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/16/h320_1024x768i.jpg
http://www.gdm.or.jp/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/16/h320_1024x768b.jpg
(not mine, random pic online)


----------



## LazarusIV

^ Very nice, the longevity of some of these units is pretty amazing, especially considering the price of them!

I, personally, cannot wait for the third generation this coming month... I'm holding out hope they review extremely well! Worse comes to worse, I can Frankenstein my own unit together off of Performance-PCs without too much of a price hit.

In a perfect world, they would release an H340 Unit I can put in the top of my FD Define S


----------



## gamefoo21

I ran a Glacer 240L, but the pump started to make noise after two years. Drained it's loop to find lots of nasty gunk inside, and the tubing was coated in white calcification. The plate was acting as a filter it seems.

So I picked up an Apogee Drive II, not realizing it's an MCP35x with no possible way to mount a MCP50x... Bah!

There are certainly things about the Drive II, that are nicer than the H220/G240L pump module. One thing that bothers me is the extra heat dumping of the Laing pump vs the Swiftech designed 50x, and the PWM response range. Oh and to me the MCP30x(my name for the boosted 240L pump version) has a much nicer sound to it than the MCP35x.

I almost bought another... Then I went crazy and started building a custom loop. lol

I wish I would have replaced the coolant before but ya know how you end up putting stuff off when it says lifetime.


----------



## Scrimstar

Where are sources for 3rd gen AIO?


----------



## ciarlatano

Scrimstar said:


> Where are sources for 3rd gen AIO?


http://performance-pcs.com will likely get the first shipments. That has been the Swiftech MO. Interested to see if they continue to sell through big box stores after the debacle of bad reviews due to user error.


----------



## mnemo_05

is there anywhere that sells that top part of the Apogee™ XL2?

found out today that my CPU block has a crack, was wondering where the drop of water i found a few months ago came from.

https://imgur.com/a/gIMluvf


----------



## fireedo

replaced my 4 months old Corsair H115i with Swiftech H240 X2 because I feel Corsair H115i doesnt give me a good performance cooling for my OC'ed 8086K at 5.2 Ghz with 1.385v, and the result is good, I can get 5-6c cooler with swiftech H240 also more silent then Corsair H115i while stress test.
While gaming (Battlefield 1) also more significant temperature performance, my max temp never exceed 72c, when using Corsair H115i I can get max temp around 83-84c, thats 10-12c delta, All tested with same room temp/ambient temp without A/C (around 28c) and same hardware setup.
so really happy here 
sorry I cant attach here, dont know why, so here my rig picture
https://imgur.com/VqxleNo


----------



## Xaeos

Hey guys. I'm currently dealing with a few issues with my Swiftech H320 X2 Prestige. I've been running it a little over a year, cooling my 5960X (overclocked to 4.5ghz turbo all cores @1.3000v and 4.0ghz max cache auto voltage). Initially everything worked great and gave excellent temps, but in the last couple of months things started to go wrong, notably CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT BSODs when gaming (some titles seem more frequent than others). I noticed that my temps too had apparently gotten much worse, so I started looking for the reason. 

There is a confirmed very slow leak present right at the connection to the pump itself (hard plastic, not the soft tubing nor fitting) which has resulting in a lower volume of fluid in the res, but no visible air bubbles in the line. However, after reading others' experiences, this may not be the culprit (though it still needs to be fixed). My X2's tubing seems to be unusually cloudy and after reading of "gunk" buildup in their blocks, I wonder if this could be the main underlying issue? I didn't really think that this would be an issue given that Swiftech's X2 kits use Mayhems tubing which is supposed to be plasticizer free and the fluid includes a biocide; certainly nothing to have to worry about in only a year of use! 

If anyone would like more detail check out this thread - https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...tech-h320x2-prestige-not-cooling-right-2.html - It has some others discussing their issues with gunk in their blocks (no leaks however), as well as my report of what's going on in more detail including a couple of photos. There's even some discussion of Haswell-E overclocking and I really didn't think my OC was anything insane at the time (it seemed my Swiftech X2 was cooling everything suitably for a very long time), but if anyone has a Haswell-E chip especially a 5960X on their X2 please feel free to weight in. 

I've contacted Swiftech and my unit is going to have to be sent in for RMA, but given the downtime involved I'm a bit concerned I'll have to purchase something else for the interim and/or a replacement, so I'm trying to look into other options. Seems like the only alternatives in "custom-grade ready to go AIO" space are the Swiftech X3 (assuming they're available?) and the EK Phoenix MLC; I wonder how they compare? Overall I've been happy with Swiftech until this happened, but i'm a bit concerned that if the tubing (or something else in the loop?) is giving off some sort of gunk that can clog up a block, the X3 line may have have similar issues? After all this talk of tubing causing issues, I am wondering if my next build might be using borosilicate glass tubing instead! Anyone with insight I welcome your comments, thank you!


----------



## ssgtnubb

You know I wonder if we are ever going to here about the Drive X3 units, this is getting pretty disappointing.


----------



## ciarlatano

ssgtnubb said:


> You know I wonder if we are ever going to here about the Drive X3 units, this is getting pretty disappointing.


The same was said with the three gens that preceeded it. It takes them some time to get products out. Their manufacturing facility is small, and they make all of the major components in house.


----------



## ssgtnubb

I know, just stinks seeing their website for over 6 months now with them presenting it, just wish there was a timeline it could drop.


----------



## Vlada011

Swiftech launch some amazing new Pump/Res combo name Maelstrom D5 series.
I didn't like their CPU coolers, radiators, but this look amazing, only they should change mounting bracket to be compatible with 120mm fan installation place.

Maelstrom D5 X50 model is coolest of all, smallest model.
Inside is their famous D5 PWM pump.


http://site.swiftech.com/maelstrom/


----------



## white owl

Vlada011 said:


> Swiftech launch some amazing new Pump/Res combo name Maelstrom D5 series.
> I didn't like their CPU coolers, radiators, but this look amazing, only they should change mounting bracket to be compatible with 120mm fan installation place.
> 
> Maelstrom D5 X50 model is coolest of all, smallest model.
> Inside is their famous D5 PWM pump.
> 
> 
> http://site.swiftech.com/maelstrom/


I'm not big on water cooling but that really is a great looking res.


----------



## Vlada011

white owl said:


> I'm not big on water cooling but that really is a great looking res.


Mine is nicer EKWB XRES D5 Revo Glass. But Swiftech Maelstrom D5 is nicer than non Glass version.
And I could install RGB on my reservoir. Over RGB Plug Barrow.


----------



## Blackops_2

So i just expanded my Glacier 240L, disassembled the block and pump to clean it. I've been trying to bleed the thing for 24 hours but it seems nearly impossible to do. Granted i have it mounted with the reservoir spout facing down as it wont fit in the nano s with it up. But i've taken the rad out and have it mounted higher have shaken it to death with it open, can't seem to get the bubble out of the pump which is still making that sort of stutter starting up noise when it gets going.

Any recommendations? Does it just absolutely have to be mounted with the spout up?


----------



## ciarlatano

Blackops_2 said:


> So i just expanded my Glacier 240L, disassembled the block and pump to clean it. I've been trying to bleed the thing for 24 hours but it seems nearly impossible to do. Granted i have it mounted with the reservoir spout facing down as it wont fit in the nano s with it up. But i've taken the rad out and have it mounted higher have shaken it to death with it open, can't seem to get the bubble out of the pump which is still making that sort of stutter starting up noise when it gets going.
> 
> Any recommendations? Does it just absolutely have to be mounted with the spout up?


I had fits bleeding the first gen units. The only way I ever found that was fairly painless was to lay the rad near the side of a table, with the pump/block hanging off the side. Then fill, run it for a bit, and intermittently turn off and restart the pump, filling while it ran. The other option is to add a small external res.




Vlada011 said:


> Mine is nicer EKWB XRES D5 Revo Glass.


Oh.....that is incredibly subjective. Also, you don't need to troll threads with "mine is nicer" posts, that is really bad forum etiquette.


----------



## Blackops_2

ciarlatano said:


> I had fits bleeding the first gen units. The only way I ever found that was fairly painless was to lay the rad near the side of a table, with the pump/block hanging off the side. Then fill, run it for a bit, and intermittently turn off and restart the pump, filling while it ran. The other option is to add a small external res.


I've got it completely filled unfortunately at the moment might just have to take it all out and empty it again. Thought it died on me for a minute as it went completely silent at one point turning it on, no vibration, nothing. As far as i could tell it was not on, though maybe it was completely bled. I'm surprised it's still working honestly all the gunk that was in that rad and pump. I'm going to try shaking it and tilting it once more tonight after work and if that doesn't work i'm going to take it out and empty it then do exactly that. Probably should've incorporated a res though even then this bubble is stubborn as hell to move out of the pump. 

What about the res orientation can it be down?


----------



## ciarlatano

Res down is not ideal, but works fine provided the unit is full of fluid. I have run a couple this way with no issues, but I was vigilant about topping them off.


----------



## Blackops_2

ciarlatano said:


> Res down is not ideal, but works fine provided the unit is full of fluid. I have run a couple this way with no issues, but I was vigilant about topping them off.


Yeah i didn't figure it was i just couldn't get it to fit the other way as the rad is hitting the memory. I think i'm just going to take it out and try and refill/bleed it and top it off then seal so it should be done.


----------



## Blackops_2

I cant bleed the thing. I think my easiest rout is going to be just adding a res. Think i can effectively bleed it that way?


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> Oh.....that is incredibly subjective. Also, you don't need to troll threads with "mine is nicer" posts, that is really bad forum etiquette.


Agreed, very bad forum etiquette


----------



## ciarlatano

Blackops_2 said:


> I cant bleed the thing. I think my easiest rout is going to be just adding a res. Think i can effectively bleed it that way?


Where is it mounted in the case? With a res, bleeding should be a lot easier provided the res is physically higher than the pump.


----------



## Blackops_2

ciarlatano said:


> Where is it mounted in the case? With a res, bleeding should be a lot easier provided the res is physically higher than the pump.


Rad is up top, CPU block below, then GPU block below it. The res would probably be a tad higher or equal to the block/pump. There isn't much verticality in the nano s to really go much above the pump since it's on the block.


----------



## ciarlatano

Blackops_2 said:


> Rad is up top, CPU block below, then GPU block below it. The res would probably be a tad higher or equal to the block/pump. There isn't much verticality in the nano s to really go much above the pump since it's on the block.


As long as you can keep the res water line higher than the block, even by a mm, you should have little trouble.

Just throwing it out there - you could also look at something like an XSPC ION pump/res combo. Cost isn't much more than a small res, it's tiny, and would solve your issue along with helping out your flow. Just a thought that occurred to me.


----------



## Blackops_2

ciarlatano said:


> As long as you can keep the res water line higher than the block, even by a mm, you should have little trouble.
> 
> Just throwing it out there - you could also look at something like an XSPC ION pump/res combo. Cost isn't much more than a small res, it's tiny, and would solve your issue along with helping out your flow. Just a thought that occurred to me.


I've been thinking about that also. Just bypassing the 240L pump and getting a pump/res combo. Then it kind of makes me want to use the summit block, the D5, and other rad i have laying around and do a complete loop. Though i was saving those parts for my next rig. I'll have to take some measurements tonight but i think getting a pump/res combo is going to be it. Might cost me 50 more but it beats trying to bleed this pump.


----------



## ciarlatano

Blackops_2 said:


> I've been thinking about that also. Just bypassing the 240L pump and getting a pump/res combo. Then it kind of makes me want to use the summit block, the D5, and other rad i have laying around and do a complete loop. Though i was saving those parts for my next rig. I'll have to take some measurements tonight but i think getting a pump/res combo is going to be it. Might cost me 50 more but it beats trying to bleed this pump.


Right. I was actually thinking of using the ION in addition to the 240L pump, but going larger certainly works as well.


----------



## Wam7

*What did Swiftech send me?*

When my Swiftech H220-X developed a fault Swiftech kindly sent me a new radiator and pump. They also include a small bottle of something like biocide or concentrated radiator fluid. I'm just about to refill my H220-X and trying to gauge the ratio to mix it with distilled water. Any ideas exactly what is in the small bottle?


----------



## ciarlatano

Wam7 said:


> When my Swiftech H220-X developed a fault Swiftech kindly sent me a new radiator and pump. They also include a small bottle of something like biocide or concentrated radiator fluid. I'm just about to refill my H220-X and trying to gauge the ratio to mix it with distilled water. Any ideas exactly what is in the small bottle?


I would shoot an email to their tech support on that one. I would guess that it is a pre-measured concentrate meant to to go in the loop, then fill the loop with distilled water. But...do you really want to fill your loop with a guess? Only Swiftech can tell you with any certainty, unless someone here has received the same and contacted Swiftech for instructions.


----------



## LazarusIV

Oh my goodness, people, when are the Drive X3 units coming out??? I really want to see them!


----------



## Vlada011

LazarusIV said:


> Oh my goodness, people, when are the Drive X3 units coming out??? I really want to see them!


Why you don't buy small Maelstrome X50, radiator and some CPU block you like and build own loop.


----------



## Duke976

LazarusIV said:


> Oh my goodness, people, when are the Drive X3 units coming out??? I really want to see them!


It looks like Swiftech is starting to sell the DriveX3 AIO from their website. Available in 240 and 360.

http://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx


----------



## ssgtnubb

What.. the... hell... is... that...


----------



## ciarlatano

ssgtnubb said:


> What.. the... hell... is... that...


That is Swiftech realizing that a lot of current users are more drawn to the lights than the performance..... They already had the performance, and they weren't the biggest AiO out there. May as well add the lights....


----------



## Vlada011

I don't know, price is on side of Swiftech Drive X3.
But Maelstrom D5 X50 installed on 280mm radiator and 6x compression fittings + tube and CPU block of choice is more powerfull and look cooler and you could change shape of loop easier.

67$ 360mm radiator
25$ 6x fittings or 8 for GPU later
145$ Maelstrom D5 X50
50-80$ CPU block

I think everyone have 3 fans at home for first moment.


----------



## Wam7

ciarlatano said:


> I would shoot an email to their tech support on that one. I would guess that it is a pre-measured concentrate meant to to go in the loop, then fill the loop with distilled water. But...do you really want to fill your loop with a guess? Only Swiftech can tell you with any certainty, unless someone here has received the same and contacted Swiftech for instructions.


Thanks, your guess was exactly correct. It was proving hard to get a reply from Swiftech but they eventually confirmed that. It was good when they had a rep here in this thread.


----------



## chrisjames61

Duke976 said:


> It looks like Swiftech is starting to sell the DriveX3 AIO from their website. Available in 240 and 360.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx


Just another leak machine. I have never seen a product on Newegg with worse reviews by verified owners than a Swiftech AIO. Before people slam the Newegg comments I want to state a AIO leaking is pretty cut and dried. Not much to argue about.


----------



## doyll

chrisjames61 said:


> Just another leak machine. I have never seen a product on Newegg with worse reviews by verified owners than a Swiftech AIO. Before people slam the Newegg comments I want to state a AIO leaking is pretty cut and dried. Not much to argue about.


Pretty harsh words and claims with no supporting links. :thumbsdow


When I searched Newegg.com for 'Swiftech H140', Swiftech H240', and Swiftech |H280' there is only one review for H140 with a score of 4 out of 5 points .. and no leaks. 

Maybe you can either supply supporting links to or edit your post to reflect the evidence.


----------



## ciarlatano

chrisjames61 said:


> Just another leak machine. I have never seen a product on Newegg with worse reviews by verified owners than a Swiftech AIO. Before people slam the Newegg comments I want to state a AIO leaking is pretty cut and dried. Not much to argue about.


21000 posts in this thread, must be about all the leaks. Weird the problem only happened on a big box site, and not on sites where experienced liquid coolers shop. Sites like PPC and OCN must be censoring the leak issue. :doh:


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Pretty harsh words and claims with no supporting links. :thumbsdow
> 
> 
> When I searched Newegg.com for 'Swiftech H140', Swiftech H240', and Swiftech |H280' there is only one review for H140 with a score of 4 out of 5 points .. and no leaks.
> 
> Maybe you can either supply supporting links to or edit your post to reflect the evidence.


There were a few NewEgg reviews where people thought they were getting a CLC and freaked if a fitting needed to get snugged. It's a problem when shipping something with connected tubes and screw in fittings, enough jostling can back out the fitting a tiny bit. Those who know liquid cooling simply turn the fitting a quarter turn.....CLC users get confused and cry that it's broken.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Duke976 said:


> It looks like Swiftech is starting to sell the DriveX3 AIO from their website. Available in 240 and 360.
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx


Those are sweet looking! 

I may look into the 360 soon but I wonder if they are ever going to produce a single fan unit like the X120 I have?


----------



## M3TAl

Is there still a Swiftech rep on the forums? I know BramSLI1 went to Germany a few years back (hope he's doing well). Emailed Swiftech on Sunday, never got any response.


----------



## Shortcut99

Is a H240 X3 good enough for a 8700K @ 5.1 at 1.380 volts and a EVGA 1080it FWT3 or should I wait to see if they come out with a H280 X3. I can not sit the 360 in my case. Thanks for any help


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> Is a H240 X3 good enough for a 8700K @ 5.1 at 1.380 volts and a EVGA 1080it FWT3 or should I wait to see if they come out with a H280 X3. I can not sit the 360 in my case. Thanks for any help


You would be very hard pressed to cool these two components with a 240 or 280mm rad alone. Your fan speeds would need to be much higher than would likely be tolerable. If you could add a second rad, that would definitely be the way to go.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> You would be very hard pressed to cool these two components with a 240 or 280mm rad alone. Your fan speeds would need to be much higher than would likely be tolerable. If you could add a second rad, that would definitely be the way to go.


Wouldn't even the 360 be pushing it? I haven't kept up with radiator tech now that I'm mostly air cooled but isn't 240 each about right?


----------



## Shortcut99

I'm using a Noctua NH-D14S now and the 8700k is De-lided running in the low to mid 80's using Prime small. I can run 5.0ghz at 1.340 volts. I want to try liquid cooling see if I can get temps down some what. I was going to get the Corsair H115I Pro until I came across Swiftect and Newegg has the H240 X3 and H360 X3 in stock. The only way I could run a 360 would have to be outside the case. My case is a 6-7 year old Thermatake can"t remember the model number but the 4 hard drives slide in from the side and just push a button and they pull out with out opening the case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> I'm using a Noctua NH-D14S now and the 8700k is De-lided running in the low to mid 80's using Prime small. I can run 5.0ghz at 1.340 volts. I want to try liquid cooling see if I can get temps down some what. I was going to get the Corsair H115I Pro until I came across Swiftect and Newegg has the H240 X3 and H360 X3 in stock. The only way I could run a 360 would have to be outside the case. My case is a 6-7 year old Thermatake can"t remember the model number but the 4 hard drives slide in from the side and just push a button and they pull out with out opening the case.


Are you trying to cool the CPU and GPU, or only the CPU? I assumed from your first post you were intending on having both the CPU and GPU in the loop. If it is CPU only, the H240-X3 will do a good job, but the H280-X3 would be quieter as the added rad space would allow the fans to run at a slower speed for similar results.


----------



## gamefoo21

The 240, will do it if! Assuming it's 400-500W at full load.

You are in a temperature controlled room? AC in the summer type of deal.

You are willing to accept coolant temp delta's pushing 20'C over ambient.

You may need to upgrade the fans to push/pull and accept that at load they'll be around 1500-2000RPM.

An option you have have for keeping stuff internal, is to see if you have the room to mount the 360 to to the side panel and modify the window to allow you to mount to it and opening it up. It would be better to spin the fans around and have them draw through the radiator and into the case.


----------



## ciarlatano

gamefoo21 said:


> The 240, will do it if! Assuming it's 400-500W at full load.
> 
> You are in a temperature controlled room? AC in the summer type of deal.
> 
> You are willing to accept coolant temp delta's pushing 20'C over ambient.
> 
> You may need to upgrade the fans to push/pull and accept that at load they'll be around 1500-2000RPM.
> 
> An option you have have for keeping stuff internal, is to see if you have the room to mount the 360 to to the side panel and modify the window to allow you to mount to it and opening it up. It would be better to spin the fans around and have them draw through the radiator and into the case.


First....push/pull is not really an option on these as the pump prevents it, so three fans is the limit. Swiftech did not change this as the rad is lower fpi and only 30mm thick, so push/pull offers little or no advantage.

The rest....well....it seems unclear if we are only talking CPU or CPU/GPU.


----------



## gamefoo21

That's true, I was just looking at the pictures, and the res/pump do restrict that area. Guess packaging concerns do things like that. So fan upgrade possibly.

Yeah, I was going off the 400-500W being for both CPU and GPU, since the 1080ti does about 250W, and the 8 series i7 can push it too.


----------



## Shortcut99

First just the CPU and later when I get a new case add GPU and add another radiator. I called them today to see if they are planing a H280 X3 and I was told the person with that info will be back sometime Tuesday or may be Wednesday and they will contact me by E-mail. When I find out about the 280 I'll let you know. I like the 280 being quieter.


----------



## gamefoo21

A 240 will easily handle the CPU alone.


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> First just the CPU and later when I get a new case add GPU and add another radiator. I called them today to see if they are planing a H280 X3 and I was told the person with that info will be back sometime Tuesday or may be Wednesday and they will contact me by E-mail. When I find out about the 280 I'll let you know. I like the 280 being quieter.


280 would be a little quieter because it has more radiator area. More area means more cooling ability so air can move slower and give same amount of cooling as 240, so lower fan speeds making less noise.


----------



## Shortcut99

Well that did not work out well. 2 E-mails and a phone call and still no reply in 4 days makes me start to wonder what kind of customer service there will be if I purchase their product and I have a warranty problem.
I have a couple of simple questions first are they coming out with a H280 X3. Next the say no need to service the unit for 3 years question is that 3 years being on 24/7? Next how long if the unit is used only a few hours a day. My heavy use is DCS and X Plane 11. 

If I get no response form Swiftect what other expandable AIO's would you recommend. My Noutca NH-D14S is working OK for now I just wanted to try liquid.


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> Well that did not work out well. 2 E-mails and a phone call and still no reply in 4 days makes me start to wonder what kind of customer service there will be if I purchase their product and I have a problem.
> I have a couple of simple questions first are they coming out with a H280 X3. Next the say no need to service the unit for 3 years question is that 3 years being on 24/7? Next how long if the unit is used only a few hours a day. My heavy use is DCS and X Plane 11.
> 
> If I get no response form Swiftect what other expandable AIO's would you recommend. My Noutca NH-D14S is working OK for now I just wanted to try liquid.


I would 'service' by at least checking coolant level and condition every few months. I suspect a change would be in order in about 18 months of relatively hard use, maybe a little longer. Going too long can result in corrosion and other damage that could cost hundreds to replace, while changing sooner only cost $10-20 at most for cleaner and new coolant. 

Honestly, a well setup air cooled rig is all you need. Going liquid cooling more than triples your cost. You have a very good air cooler that a couple of new fans will improve by at least 5c at a cost of about $40. Good AIO is $140. Just a decent full cover GPU waterblock is another $150 plus fittings and hose for another $50-70 .. and of course radiator cooling area w/ fans is another $130 added to an existing loop not designed to cool both CPU and GPU ( at least 360mm and ideally 480m total radiator area .. 4x120mm). Your NH-D14 is a very good cooler, even better if you put new better fans on it and made sure your case airflow is supplying it and GPU cooler with cool air that is not getting pre-heated. A good aftermarket GPU air cooler if even needed is about $55 for Arctic Accellero including fans or $65 for Rajintek Morpheus II needing fans so add another $25-35 for really good fans. I've had good results lowering temps and noise on several GPUs just removing stock shroud & fans and replacing them with 90mm or 120mm 25mm thick fans attached with zip-ties. Google it to find different examples. I'm not running the total expense either way, but even if you need a couple good case fans they are only another $30 for top tier air cooling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> Well that did not work out well. 2 E-mails and a phone call and still no reply in 4 days makes me start to wonder what kind of customer service there will be if I purchase their product and I have a warranty problem.
> I have a couple of simple questions first are they coming out with a H280 X3. Next the say no need to service the unit for 3 years question is that 3 years being on 24/7? Next how long if the unit is used only a few hours a day. My heavy use is DCS and X Plane 11.
> 
> If I get no response form Swiftect what other expandable AIO's would you recommend. My Noutca NH-D14S is working OK for now I just wanted to try liquid.


Odd that a phone call got you nowhere. I have called them a number of times and always got a prompt response by phone.

As for the three years, I have seen a number go three years with no issues, but I would not count on that. If you go to liquid cooling, you need to expect some maintenance (or to throw away units if you are talking about CLCs). Changing the fluid yearly is 15-20 minutes out of your year and will prevent issues.


----------



## Shortcut99

When I called in the beginning of the week I did talk to some one but they they never got back to me. Just called again and talkes to someone they said they someone would call be back waiting to see what happens.



Thanks for the info on the maintenance that will be no problem, I guess the best would be to use distilled water with mabe some Petra's Tech PT Nuke Cu and a drop or two of liquid iodine.
*
*


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> When I called in the beginning of the week I did talk to some one but they they never got back to me. Just called again and talkes to someone they said they someone would call be back waiting to see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info on the maintenance that will be no problem, I guess the best would be to use distilled water with mabe some Petra's Tech PT Nuke Cu and a drop or two of liquid iodine.
> *
> *


Swiftech recommends Mayhem's X1, and with good reason. Proper biocide and corrosion inhibitors, and is pretty much foolproof to mix up.


----------



## Shortcut99

Call back 3rd time finally spoke to some one found out the only person that knows if there will be a X280 X3 and if so whatthe time line might be will not be back for another week, so the search goes on.


Thanks for the fluid info. The way it's going I just might stay with my Noutca NH-D14S and back down the 8700K to 5.0ghz at 1.35 volts.


----------



## EMUracing

Shortcut99 said:


> Call back 3rd time finally spoke to some one found out the only person that knows if there will be a X280 X3 and if so whatthe time line might be will not be back for another week, so the search goes on.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the fluid info. The way it's going I just might stay with my Noutca NH-D14S and back down the 8700K to 5.0ghz at 1.35 volts.


Swiftech is a very small business, and only one person makes the decisions from what I understand. The other people answering the phone probably have multiple roles to play in the company as well.

My opinion would be that if you are going to need maximum uptime with the system, with minimal maintenance, to stick with air. If you want to play around, and would be OK with an occasional drain/clean/fill once every 12-18 months, and are willing to risk the possible dangers associated with the increased points of failure possible with a water loop (pump failure, leak) and have the ability to troubleshoot and expand the system, then it is OK to go water.

It sounds like you would need at least 4x120mm surface area on the radiator. 6x120 if you want it relatively silent. If you are doing a lot of load for long periods of time, you will want as much surface area as you can have. A 240 will suffice for low loads and light gaming, but the fan speed will be high and water delta temps will be high as well. Put heavy load on it and the temps will run away. Pumps dont like higher water temps, so the higher the water temp, the greater the risk of failure.

All 4 of my systems at home are water cooled. Every system that I build for people is air cooled. I cannot take the chance that they will not do the maintenance, and run into an issue then come back unhappy because the system is not operating properly. One of my systems uses a Swiftech H220 radiator, and a DriveII pump/CPU block. Basically, I made an AIO with an upgraded pump. The power of my pump is basically the same as the unit that Swiftech uses in their AIO. Performance is excellent, however, the pump noise is noticeable, so keep that in mind.

If you are evaluating value, with the Swiftech unit you are more or less getting custom loop performance at a fraction of the cost. With that said, the D14 is in a similar performance bracket, so it really is not an upgrade for the CPU, only the GPU. For the money you would spend on the bling factor of liquid, you could easily upgrade all of your case fans, cooler fans, and get the best aircooler for the GPU which would give you much less risk of failure. For a gaming system, I love to get wet. For a work system, dry is safer which gets my vote. If you have backup systems in case you need to take this one down to solve an issue, and just want to play with water a bit, then go ahead. But if this is the only system you are relying on, keep it dry.


----------



## doyll

Seems Swiftech is letting their having a good product go to their head and are forgetting how important having good customer support is. When they had a rep monitoring forums their sales improved dramatically not just because it's a good product, but we know we could get support if we had any problems. At least that's what it looks like .. hope I'm wrong.


----------



## ciarlatano

EMUracing said:


> Swiftech is a very small business, and only one person makes the decisions from what I understand. The other people answering the phone probably have multiple roles to play in the company as well.
> 
> My opinion would be that if you are going to need maximum uptime with the system, with minimal maintenance, to stick with air. If you want to play around, and would be OK with an occasional drain/clean/fill once every 12-18 months, and are willing to risk the possible dangers associated with the increased points of failure possible with a water loop (pump failure, leak) and have the ability to troubleshoot and expand the system, then it is OK to go water.
> 
> It sounds like you would need at least 4x120mm surface area on the radiator. 6x120 if you want it relatively silent. If you are doing a lot of load for long periods of time, you will want as much surface area as you can have. A 240 will suffice for low loads and light gaming, but the fan speed will be high and water delta temps will be high as well. Put heavy load on it and the temps will run away. Pumps dont like higher water temps, so the higher the water temp, the greater the risk of failure.
> 
> All 4 of my systems at home are water cooled. Every system that I build for people is air cooled. I cannot take the chance that they will not do the maintenance, and run into an issue then come back unhappy because the system is not operating properly. One of my systems uses a Swiftech H220 radiator, and a DriveII pump/CPU block. Basically, I made an AIO with an upgraded pump. The power of my pump is basically the same as the unit that Swiftech uses in their AIO. Performance is excellent, however, the pump noise is noticeable, so keep that in mind.
> 
> If you are evaluating value, with the Swiftech unit you are more or less getting custom loop performance at a fraction of the cost. With that said, the D14 is in a similar performance bracket, so it really is not an upgrade for the CPU, only the GPU. For the money you would spend on the bling factor of liquid, you could easily upgrade all of your case fans, cooler fans, and get the best aircooler for the GPU which would give you much less risk of failure. For a gaming system, I love to get wet. For a work system, dry is safer which gets my vote. If you have backup systems in case you need to take this one down to solve an issue, and just want to play with water a bit, then go ahead. But if this is the only system you are relying on, keep it dry.


You make some good points, all being very important, especially regarding reliability. But.....your Drive II is not the same pump as the MCP30/50X, and the new pump is significantly quieter. Also, you are grossly overstating the amount of rad needed. The H240-X3 would have no issues quietly cooling the CPU only loop in question.


----------



## Shortcut99

My case is The ATX type the top vent will easily take a 280mm radiator. A 360mm will also fit bit the fan at the front of the case will not be in the vented area. What I'M thinking of trying is getting the H360 X3 and installing it in the top of the case and only connecting the 2 fans in the vented area. With just 2 fans operating I'm thinking it should perform pretty close to the H220 X3. 

How do you think that would work. When I change my case I"ll get one that will take a 360mm radiator.


This is a hobby for me the system is for home use and flight sims. That's why I de-lidded my 3 month old 8700k that dropped temps over 10C I'll be keeping my Noctua NH-D14s


----------



## EMUracing

ciarlatano said:


> You make some good points, all being very important, especially regarding reliability. But.....your Drive II is not the same pump as the MCP30/50X, and the new pump is significantly quieter. Also, you are grossly overstating the amount of rad needed. The H240-X3 would have no issues quietly cooling the CPU only loop in question.


CPU only, a 240 would do comfortably, but not the 1080ti included, which was the wattage data that I was looking at when calculating rad space.

Let's say 150w for a fully overclocked CPU, and 250w for GPU. That's about 400w. Your average radiator will dissipate 100w/120mm fan at 1200rpm. So, 4x120mm would cover that loop with 10c delta. If he wants silence, then that would be under 1000rpm fan speed, would need more radiator space. So, 6x120mm would be the ideal choice. Should be able to run 1000rpm fan speed at full load without noise.

If there is space in the case, it never hurts to run extra rad space. When I design systems for myself, I always spec the radiator wattage on 750rpm data, which allows me to know that I never need to ramp up the fan speed over 1000rpm even in higher ambient temps.

The pump that I have is an alphacool ddc which operates at similar rpm to the swiftech AIO units at 12v, but has a heatsink to keep the pump cooler. It is not a 35x which operates at 18w, I think its 9w if i remember correctly. I was not aware that the swiftech 30/50 style pump has lower noise at similar rpm to the ddc. In purchasing a refurbished h220 radiator with fans, pump and driveII block for around the same price as the h240x, I was able to keep the pump on the CPU which helped with clearance in the ITX system it is installed in. I don't think that I could have installed the h240x1/2/3 in my case, let alone push/pull.

Edit: sorry for confusion, h240x is 2x140mm fans, h220x is 120mm fans. So, h240x is more or less equivalent to a 360 radiator, so capable of roughly 300w at 1200rpm. I dislike the naming system used as it leads to confusion with the standard sizing of radiators.



Shortcut99 said:


> My case is The ATX type the top vent will easily take a 280mm radiator. A 360mm will also fit bit the fan at the front of the case will not be in the vented area. What I'M thinking of trying is getting the H360 X3 and installing it in the top of the case and only connecting the 2 fans in the vented area. With just 2 fans operating I'm thinking it should perform pretty close to the H220 X3.
> 
> How do you think that would work. When I change my case I"ll get one that will take a 360mm radiator.
> 
> 
> This is a hobby for me the system is for home use and flight sims. That's why I de-lidded my 3 month old 8700k that dropped temps over 10C I'll be keeping my Noctua NH-D14s


If you plan to expand the unit, I would focus more on having the expanded radiator be the larger one. The 2x140mm setup might be easier to install a larger expanded radiator. I would recommend looking at cases first before making a purchase, decide which you would move to and the space available for radiators. Then you can try to figure out where each would go. Remember that the swiftech units have limited orientations, and the reservoir/pump clearance could become a concern.


----------



## ciarlatano

EMUracing;27581370
Edit: sorry for confusion said:


> With the X3 series, they have gone to more conventional naming. The H240-X3 is now a 2 x 120mm fans, with the H280-X3 slated to be 2 x 140mm. The naming scheme of the first three series (H220, H220-X and H220-X2) was not intuitive. It was ridiculous.


----------



## EMUracing

ciarlatano said:


> With the X3 series, they have gone to more conventional naming. The H240-X3 is now a 2 x 120mm fans, with the H280-X3 slated to be 2 x 140mm. The naming scheme of the first three series (H220, H220-X and H220-X2) was not intuitive. It was ridiculous.


Thanks for clarifying. I understand their reasoning for the old naming system now, number of fans represented in first digit, then size of those fans in the 2nd and 3rd. It is just so confusing when the water cooling market refer to radiator sizes in millimeters.

To me, 2x120 or 2x140 makes the most sense to know the amount of fans and the size of those fans. Sometimes labeled as 120.2 or 140.2. This makes more sense then 220/320 or 240 which can be misinterpreted with the standardized naming system in mm.


----------



## Shortcut99

I finally decided to go for it and got the Swiftech H360 Drive X3

When I opened the box I was really impressed with the quality of this unit. I connected it and ran it outside the case for 24 hours to check for any leaks or problems there were none. I was surprised while running outside the case how quite it was. The LED lighting works great and the CPU block looks really well built and looks good, come October we will be able to use Asus Aura to control the LED lighting.

The installation was very simple and everything I needed was in the box. I wanted to install in it on the front of my Thermaltake View 71 case but the tubing is a too short the case is under my desk and the top of it is only 2-3 inches from the desk, that 71 case is huge. If i decide at a later date I can open up the H360 X3 and make the tubing long as I need, can’t do that with a sealed AIO. I'm all ready thinking of adding a xspc photon 270 reservoir just to fill some of the space in the case when I move it to the front.

I replace my Noctua HN-U14S with H360 and the noise level is so close to the Noctua I can’t tell the difference even when running Prime 95. It also lowered my temps on my delidded 8700k @ 5.1ghz and 1.370 volts about 8-9 degrees C while running Prime 95, 70-71C. Now to get to 5.2ghz.

The cooler comes with everything I needed to get it installed the packaging is very good and they include a hand written factory check sheet with list of items they check including a pressure tested to 15 PSI so no leaks. 

I'M Very Happy with my purchase


----------



## Madmaxneo

Shortcut99 said:


> I finally decided to go for it and got the Swiftech H360 Drive X3
> 
> When I opened the box I was really impressed with the quality of this unit. I connected it and ran it outside the case for 24 hours to check for any leaks or problems there were none. I was surprised while running outside the case how quite it was. The LED lighting works great and the CPU block looks really well built and looks good, come October we will be able to use Asus Aura to control the LED lighting.
> 
> The installation was very simple and everything I needed was in the box. I wanted to install in it on the front of my Thermaltake View 71 case but the tubing is a too short the case is under my desk and the top of it is only 2-3 inches from the desk, that 71 case is huge. If i decide at a later date I can open up the H360 X3 and make the tubing long as I need, can’t do that with a sealed AIO. I'm all ready thinking of adding a xspc photon 270 reservoir just to fill some of the space in the case when I move it to the front.
> 
> I replace my Noctua HN-D14S with H360 and the noise level is so close to the Noctua I can’t tell the difference even when running Prime 95. It also lowered my temps on my delidded 8700k @ 5.1ghz and 1.370 volts about 8-9 degrees C while running Prime 95, 70-71C. Now to get to 5.2ghz.
> 
> The cooler comes with everything I needed to get it installed the packaging is very good and they include a hand written factory check sheet with list of items they check including a pressure tested to 15 PSI so no leaks.
> 
> I'M Very Happy with my purchase


I want to get one. But I am in a conundrum right now. I am saving up to get a new MB, RAM, and CPU. I am currently running off of a Rampage IV Black ed on a 4930k. Although this system still does pretty great in anything I play or do it has an issue where the screens go black for no apparent reason and I have to reset the system. I have tried all kinds of solutions but nothing works. So I really need to focus on getting the new parts before the new AIO. Knowing my luck they will be really hard to come by when I do have the chance to purchase them.....


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> I finally decided to go for it and got the Swiftech H360 Drive X3
> 
> When I opened the box I was really impressed with the quality of this unit. I connected it and ran it outside the case for 24 hours to check for any leaks or problems there were none. I was surprised while running outside the case how quite it was. The LED lighting works great and the CPU block looks really well built and looks good, come October we will be able to use Asus Aura to control the LED lighting.
> 
> The installation was very simple and everything I needed was in the box. I wanted to install in it on the front of my Thermaltake View 71 case but the tubing is a too short the case is under my desk and the top of it is only 2-3 inches from the desk, that 71 case is huge. If i decide at a later date I can open up the H360 X3 and make the tubing long as I need, can’t do that with a sealed AIO. I'm all ready thinking of adding a xspc photon 270 reservoir just to fill some of the space in the case when I move it to the front.
> 
> I replace my Noctua HN-D14S with H360 and the noise level is so close to the Noctua I can’t tell the difference even when running Prime 95. It also lowered my temps on my delidded 8700k @ 5.1ghz and 1.370 volts about 8-9 degrees C while running Prime 95, 70-71C. Now to get to 5.2ghz.
> 
> The cooler comes with everything I needed to get it installed the packaging is very good and they include a hand written factory check sheet with list of items they check including a pressure tested to 15 PSI so no leaks.
> 
> I'M Very Happy with my purchase


Thank you for posting your results of H360 X3 and how it compares to your NH-D15S (I assume because there is no D14S). Always good to get user test results and data, especially when data is accurate. 

Your 8-9c temp improvement is is more than I would expect, but my expectation is based on cooler intake air temp only being 2-3c above room. I'm guessing the difference is air temp going to your D15S was being warmed inside of case a few degrees more .. like 5-8c warmer than room and that is 3-5c of your 8-9c improvement .. leaving us with H360 cooling 3-6c better than D15S. When air cooling the air into cooler is almost always 2-3c above room when stress testing both CPU and GPU. My own are 0-3c with HTPC being warmest, but it's knowledge and time. Any air cooled system having air temp into cooler/s 2-3c above room when stress testing as very good. 5-8c is very common and not too bad at all. Warmer than that case airflow needs to be improved.


----------



## Shortcut99

I Goofed it's a Noctua HN-*U*14S not the HN-D14S I put the D in instead of the *U* I suck at typing. Prior to switching I was at 77-79 C on the same test.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> I Goofed it's a Noctua HN-*U*14S not the HN-D14S I put the D in instead of the *U* I suck at typing. Prior to switching I was at 77-79 on the same test.


Thanks for sharing your impressions. Happy to hear Swiftech is staying on point.


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> I Goofed it's a Noctua HN-*U*14S not the HN-D14S I put the D in instead of the *U* I suck at typing. Prior to switching I was at 77-79 on the same test.


Didn't even thing of NH-U14S as D14S. Way more peeps have D15/D15S than U14S. NH-U14S is a very good cooler only a couple degrees warmer than NH-D15/D15S. Sounds like yo had good case airflow before changing, and H360 X3 does cool significantly better. :thumb:


----------



## Shortcut99

It did not take long Newegg is out of stock on the h360 X3 and H240 X3. One bad review on Newegg on the H240 X3 but from with what I see on my H360 I do not believe the review. The H360 has 3 5 star reviews.


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> It did not take long Newegg is out of stock on the h360 X3 and H240 X3. One bad review on Newegg on the H240 X3 but from with what I see on my H360 I do not believe the review. The H360 has 3 5 star reviews.


Hard to say what the problem is with the H240 X3, but I notice Swiftech has replied to consumer. That's a good sign.


----------



## Shortcut99

I have E-mailed them a couple of times just before I made my decision Corsair or Swiftech and they were very helpful. The check sheet that comes with the cooler are hand checked checks for -

Radiator Assembly Fastener Check
Water Block Fastener Check
Clamps Fastener Check
15 PSI Leak Test
Pump On/Off Flow Circulation
Radiator assembly visual inspection
Waterblock Visual Inspections
Plus 4 other Package Content Inspections

Seems they are very concerned about quality and if someone did not do his job I'd be pissed especially on a new product. 

It would have been helpful if the reviewer would have gave more info about his problem. also wonder why when you check Verified Owner none show up.


----------



## doyll

Shortcut99 said:


> I have E-mailed them a couple of times just before I made my decision Corsair or Swiftech and they were very helpful. The check sheet that comes with the cooler are hand checked checks for -
> 
> Radiator Assembly Fastener Check
> Water Block Fastener Check
> Clamps Fastener Check
> 15 PSI Leak Test
> Pump On/Off Flow Circulation
> Radiator assembly visual inspection
> Waterblock Visual Inspections
> Plus 4 other Package Content Inspections
> 
> Seems they are very concerned about quality and if someone did not do his job I'd be pissed especially on a new product.
> 
> It would have been helpful if the reviewer would have gave more info about his problem. also wonder why when you check Verified Owner none show up.


All very true. 

The difference between Swiftech and Corsair (most made by Asetek) is day and night .. Swiftech quality is real while Asetek depend on marketing hype not quality product. Corsair advertising is bases on hype convincing consumer their product is best, not on actual facts consumer can verify.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shortcut99 said:


> It did not take long Newegg is out of stock on the h360 X3 and H240 X3. One bad review on Newegg on the H240 X3 but from with what I see on my H360 I do not believe the review. The H360 has 3 5 star reviews.


NewEgg reviews of open loop products are ridiculous. All of the Swiftech reviews read as "Waaaaaahhhhhh! I don't know how to use this! Waaaaaahhhhhh!!!! It's a terrible product because I don't know how it works! Waaaaaahhhhhh!!!!! I only know how to work a CLC! Waaaaaahhhhhh!!!!!".


----------



## mons7er

Can anyone recommend a good case that will fit an H360X3, and also allows reasonable airflow? 

I was looking at the Cooler Master H500 and the Fractal Meshify C but I have concerns about fitment.


----------



## ciarlatano

mons7er said:


> Can anyone recommend a good case that will fit an H360X3, and also allows reasonable airflow?
> 
> I was looking at the Cooler Master H500 and the Fractal Meshify C but I have concerns about fitment.


The Phanteks Pro M would be a far better choice than either of those, and it fits easily. The H500 is terribly built, and it would only fit in the front of the Meshify C with the res down. You may or may not have to lengthen the tubing for it to work in the Meshify C due to that, I'm not sure.


----------



## Shortcut99

I'm using a Thermaltake View 71 TG at Newegg they have been running on again off again 30.00 rebate for the past few weeks 114.99 with rebate. For that price it's a real good case plenty of room and looks good.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone know where I can get 2 res/pump tops for the X2 series? Broke 2 cleaning them the other day. Doh!!!


----------



## Shortcut99

E-mail Swiftech and I'm sure they will help you.


----------



## v1ral

Will those RGB fans be sold separately?


----------



## Shortcut99

I asked if they were going to have 140mm fans to mach the 120 fans and they said not at this time and the 120's are not listed on there site. I wish they were because they are nice and quite and look good.


----------



## xxxlun4icexxx

Hi all!

I know that it's not the exact model, but I figured some swiftech experts would be familiar with their tech.

Long story short I purchased one of swiftech's Drive X3 360 AIO coolers. It works great except for the RGB. None of the lights are synced up basically (the pump lights up 2 different colors and 1 light on 1 of the fans is fixed as well. It's really strange). Anyway, due to this and the fact I'm having no luck with their customer service, I decided to buy a raystorm pro cpu block to replace swiftech's. It looks cool and matches the system. This eliminates the RGB problem and gives me some experience with draining/refilling/bleeding a liquid system.

Anyway, I ordered some compression fittings, the block, and a psu jumper adapter. 

Just had a few questions as I dive into this project. 

#1. The raystorm block is directional. It has an icon for which port on the block is the inlet. Do you know what tube on the swiftech AIOs is the correct tube that would go into it? For the Drive X3, one tube goes to the pump/reservoir, the other goes into the radiator. 

#2. As far as draining the system and refilling, I just want to use the same fluid. Can I basically just pour it out via the drain port on the side, and once I'm done putting connecting the tubes to new block, just put the same fluid right back in via filler bottle? Do I need to be running the pump while I pour the liquid in, or do I just pour it back in and I'm good to go? Do I need to do any bleeding, flushing tubes, etc.? Is there an easy way to bleed these AIOs?

#3. If I do need to run the pump outside the system, is the only thing I need plugged into the psu is a sata power connector? For instance, the AIO cooler has a bunch of 3 pin connectors and then the sata power one. would I just plug the sata one in and turn on the psu (with the psu jumper cable plugged in)?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you very much!


----------



## EMUracing

1. The tube attached to the pump goes to in on CPU block.

2. Using same coolant is ok, just use distilled water to make up for the coolant that is missing.

You will need to bleed. Fill until the reservoir is full, then run the pump, turn off and continue filling. Once all of the bubbles are gone, then you can seal it up. I added a barb and a few inches of tubing to the fill port which makes it easier to fill.

Once "full" seal, run the pump while you rotate the radiator and move the block around. It's much easier to bleed before installing to a system.

3. Sata power alone will run pump at 100%, which is what you want when bleeding.

I filled an h240x last week, which is basically the same process.


----------



## xxxlun4icexxx

EMUracing said:


> 1. The tube attached to the pump goes to in on CPU block.
> 
> 2. Using same coolant is ok, just use distilled water to make up for the coolant that is missing.
> 
> You will need to bleed. Fill until the reservoir is full, then run the pump, turn off and continue filling. Once all of the bubbles are gone, then you can seal it up. I added a barb and a few inches of tubing to the fill port which makes it easier to fill.
> 
> Once "full" seal, run the pump while you rotate the radiator and move the block around. It's much easier to bleed before installing to a system.
> 
> 3. Sata power alone will run pump at 100%, which is what you want when bleeding.
> 
> I filled an h240x last week, which is basically the same process.


Thanks! That clears about a lot.

When I add the fluid, run, rinse/repeat do I leave the reservoir cap off for this process? Or do I put it back on each time I run the pump? It's on the side, so if I am gonna run it with it off I guess I'd just tip it on its side?

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

xxxlun4icexxx said:


> Thanks! That clears about a lot.
> 
> When I add the fluid, run, rinse/repeat do I leave the reservoir cap off for this process? Or do I put it back on each time I run the pump? It's on the side, so if I am gonna run it with it off I guess I'd just tip it on its side?
> 
> Thanks!


I have always done it with the cap off to get the bleeding done more effectively, and top off the fill while it is running.


----------



## Scrimstar

H360X3 Drive X3 does not list x299 /lga 2066 as supported, but I have seen i9 reviews.. Is there a special bracket or backplate? Or should I just use lga2011 instructions.

Will there be a prestige version, since there is a prestige SKF ;p


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ok so as some of the old heads may know I've been running two komodo r9 le blocks for quite some years now and it appears that both of them have acrylic cracks in the same spot however one is leaking and the other is not.... they had this from the time I purchased but they didnt leak so I never RMAd them....they look like micro cracks but I'm thinking it's the fitment to the actual screw thru rubber grommet that is leaking....is there anyway to seal this as swiftech doesnt carry the parts anymore for these blocks or I could not find them....I'll post pictures in a moment.... so the cracks radiate from the center of this screw out about 1/4 inch and creates a slow small drip from directly behind this spot down..... the non leaking card the cracks are around 1/8th of an inch from center.....I've switched the position of the card to secondary spot to prevent leaking into the other card.... I should've taken pictures when I had it out but I had hoped it was the seal that was causing it but after cleaning and verifying everything was in the proper place it still leaks after refill so I'm looking for options that dont require a 100 dollar block replacement


----------



## mons7er

Is it possible to mount additional fans on the 'underside' of the H360X3?

I mean other than the three that are on "top" in the configurations you see in most pictures.


----------



## ciarlatano

mons7er said:


> Is it possible to mount additional fans on the 'underside' of the H360X3?
> 
> I mean other than the three that are on "top" in the configurations you see in most pictures.


It appears they abandoned the underside mounting holes as only one fan would fit, and as shown in numerous tests there is no performance advantage to push/pull on that rad design.


----------



## Madmaxneo

mons7er said:


> Is it possible to mount additional fans on the 'underside' of the H360X3?
> 
> I mean other than the three that are on "top" in the configurations you see in most pictures.





ciarlatano said:


> It appears they abandoned the underside mounting holes as only one fan would fit, and as shown in numerous tests there is no performance advantage to push/pull on that rad design.


There are many people who would claim otherwise. From what I understand you have to use different fans that when in a single push or pull design would perform less than the stock fans but supposedly perform better when in a push/pull configuration. I personally don't think it is worth the effort for what little gain people claim to achieve.


----------



## mons7er

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> There are many people who would claim otherwise. From what I understand you have to use different fans that when in a single push or pull design would perform less than the stock fans but supposedly perform better when in a push/pull configuration. I personally don't think it is worth the effort for what little gain people claim to achieve.


People "claim" a lot of things that are nothing more than placebo effect. The Xtreme rigs tests show how small the gain is on rads like this - https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## dVeLoPe

well today was a sad day my H240-X pump is no longer functional and I have reverted to a 212+ for now.

How can I fix this? I have a spare pump that Swiftech sent me when I complained mine was making noise..

But unfortunately I recently moved and I have no idea where it is so I am considering buying another pump.

WHAT EXACTLY do I need to make a custom loop with my H240-X parts?


----------



## diggiddi

Swiftech apogee pump


----------



## ciarlatano

dVeLoPe said:


> well today was a sad day my H240-X pump is no longer functional and I have reverted to a 212+ for now.
> 
> How can I fix this? I have a spare pump that Swiftech sent me when I complained mine was making noise..
> 
> But unfortunately I recently moved and I have no idea where it is so I am considering buying another pump.
> 
> WHAT EXACTLY do I need to make a custom loop with my H240-X parts?


There are a lot of different answers to this question depending on exactly what you are looking to do.

If you want to keep in really simple, grab an XSPC ION (or another simple pump res combo), simply add it right in line, and don't power the existing Swiftech pump. You would simply need the pump/res combo and two 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings (or 3/8" barbs if for some reason you prefer barbs). You would also want to do a fluid change, so add a bottle of Mayhems X1 clear and a gallon of distilled water to the shopping list. Were it me....I would also change out the tubing and make some nice, neat runs.

You could also simply add a pump in line, provided you mount it below the res of the X (so, a pump and two fittings, plus coolant and optional tubing). But, it can be a real bear to fill and bleed without an external res. The easiest way would be to add a tube to the fill port on the Swiftech and fill through there holding it above the unit - this adds a fitting and a stop fitting.

Unfortunately, Swiftech no longer makes the adapter to remove the pump from the X, so it has to stay mounted.


----------



## dVeLoPe

http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx

is this what your talking about?? how can I confirm it's not the cable that runs to the pump that is faulty?

I have a ''replacement pump'' that Swiftech sent me but I have not confirmed if it works or even how to check that.

I would like to leave the possibility to add in 1/2 high end video cards in the future and cool the best cpu of next gen.


----------



## ciarlatano

dVeLoPe said:


> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
> 
> is this what your talking about?? how can I confirm it's not the cable that runs to the pump that is faulty?
> 
> I have a ''replacement pump'' that Swiftech sent me but I have not confirmed if it works or even how to check that.
> 
> I would like to leave the possibility to add in 1/2 high end video cards in the future and cool the best cpu of next gen.


If you have the replacement pump, the way to check it is to install it. The MCP-30 is capable of powering a build with 2 blocks and multiple rads with no issue, but going to three blocks (CPU + 2 GPU) is really pushing it to it's limit. If that is your end goal, you may be best off going to a D5 pump/res combo now and building off of that.


----------



## dVeLoPe

Is their a gasket I have to replace when swapping the pump out?

https://www.aerocooler.com/swiftech...-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump/

they have the fitting here which makes me more intrigued on a custom loop as I remember I have an extra 240mm rad/pump/microres


----------



## Vlada011

Hello Swiftech owners...
Searching for best variant of Laing D5 I constantly found recommendation of Swiftech MCP655 or MCP655 PWM.
Why is she different than other Laing D5 variants as EK Lowara or Watercool WCP D5 and is it MCP655 PWM same or they talk specific about old Non PWM Model.

Even in Maelstrom review remind that inside is reliable MCP655, but why is she different.
I ask because I need backup pump and probably non PWM version, 
my is loud and after I buy new one I need to RMA my to EKWB D5 G2 PWM.

I probably should look for this version MCP655 non PWM with Speed Controller.
I think this is Original bottom as on Laing D5.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Vlada011 said:


> Hello Swiftech owners...
> Searching for best variant of Laing D5 I constantly found recommendation of Swiftech MCP655 or MCP655 PWM.
> Why is she different than other Laing D5 variants as EK Lowara or Watercool WCP D5 and is it MCP655 PWM same or they talk specific about old Non PWM Model.
> 
> Even in Maelstrom review remind that inside is reliable MCP655, but why is she different.
> I ask because I need backup pump and probably non PWM version,
> my is loud and after I buy new one I need to RMA my to EKWB D5 G2 PWM.
> 
> I probably should look for this version MCP655 non PWM with Speed Controller.
> I think this is Original bottom as on Laing D5.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html


The only difference on _*any*_ of the D5 pumps would be the PWM circuit on the PWM versions, and the top if it is changed to a 3rd party design. The pump will be _*absolutely identical*_. They are all the same spec as the Laing D5. Xylem bought Laing and the D5 design and produces the same exact pump in several locations worldwide. This search for different D5 pumps you have been on is nothing short of a wild goose chase.


----------



## Vlada011

I know Xylem bought Laing, and Lowara produce with them.
But why market so much insist on Swiftech version, so much that their Maelstrom are out of stock in most stores and I can bet D5 version play big role inside.
Only if other manufacturer used license to produce and maybe Swiftech had their Laing made with sticker.
Coca-Cola in Europe is not same as Coca-Cola in USA. In every country I taste is little difference, but its Coca-Cola.

Where can I find that Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control non PWM for normal price as other D5?
I have exactly money for Nemesis GTX360 and D5 Pump with Speed Controller.

Maybe is and D5 Next original Laing, but with a lot of changes.
CM Quick keyboard have same PCB board as Filco. But it's not Filco and it's far from Filco.


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/Swiftech_H360X3_Drive_X3_AIO/6.html


Seems like the H360X3 is held back by the 6W pump and Helix fans


----------



## smithydan

Guys, would you need an extra res or the one on the drive x3 is enough?

Full loop btw.


----------



## ciarlatano

smithydan said:


> Guys, would you need an extra res or the one on the drive x3 is enough?
> 
> Full loop btw.


What are you looking to do? I have always preferred an additional res when expanding simply for the ease of filling and bleeding.


----------



## smithydan

ciarlatano said:


> What are you looking to do? I have always preferred an additional res when expanding simply for the ease of filling and bleeding.


A normal loop, only thing to be add would be a gpu block.

So you are saying one is not needed but would help.


----------



## Beagle Box

smithydan said:


> A normal loop, only thing to be add would be a gpu block.
> 
> So you are saying one is not needed but would help.


No extra res needed.


----------



## ciarlatano

smithydan said:


> A normal loop, only thing to be add would be a gpu block.
> 
> So you are saying one is not needed but would help.


That is exactly what I was trying to say. Filling the X series in place ranges from being kind of a pain to nearly impossible depending on placement. And the fill even with an external res will vary quite a bit depending on how you are physically constructing the loop.

With the unit mounted vertically and the pump down, it is really easy with an added res. If you are mounting horizontally on top, a length of tube connected to the fill port helps immensely if you are not using an added res....and may still be your best bet for the initial fill even with an added res. This is why I asked what you are planning to do. If you give a bit more detail you will get more information for the particular setup you want to end up with.


----------



## akromatic

Hey guys, is there any way to trick the LEDs in the apogee SKF prestige to use aura sync or other means of lighting control other then iris?

if not is there any way to remove the LED strip from the block?


----------



## Scrimstar

Is the 360X3 comparable to the normal H320X2 or the Prestige H320X2? 

I already have the X3 set up with my i9, didn't want to bother reinstalling my Prestige. Used good TIM, not sure if I can make temps better, unless I switch to the Prestige or delid. Don't think fans would be much of a difference. Too lazy for a real WC set up

And do I have to worry about the fittings on the X3 every few months? I should check on the milk dye every year or so right.. Not sure if there is anything else to check, acrylic cracks? 

btw lga2066 works with lga2011 instructions for X3

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/Swiftech_H360X3_Drive_X3_AIO/6.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Scrimstar said:


> Is the 360X3 comparable to the normal H320X2 or the Prestige H320X2?
> 
> I already have the X3 set up with my i9, didn't want to bother reinstalling my Prestige. Used good TIM, not sure if I can make temps better, unless I switch to the Prestige or delid. Don't think fans would be much of a difference. Too lazy for a real WC set up
> 
> And do I have to worry about the fittings on the X3 every few months? I should check on the milk dye every year or so right.. Not sure if there is anything else to check, acrylic cracks?
> 
> btw lga2066 works with lga2011 instructions for X3
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/Swiftech_H360X3_Drive_X3_AIO/6.html


The only difference in the two and Prestige X2 is the fans in terms of performance. The me should be essentially identical in terms of performance, and differences would be fan caused.


----------



## mak1skav

What was the difference in the "Prestige" models that made them to have better performance in min. fan speeds? They just use better fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

mak1skav said:


> What was the difference in the "Prestige" models that made them to have better performance in min. fan speeds? They just use better fans?


The Prestige used eLoops, while the standard models use Swiftech Helix fans. The eLoops have much higher static pressure and airflow at lower speeds. The Helix really struggle in that regard.


----------



## Caffinator

i ended up purchasing a EVGA CLC280. the Swiftch looks nice, though.


----------



## shadow85

I have a Swiftech H-240X cooling 1 cpu at the moment. Does anybody know if I can connect a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce RTX 2080 Ti graphics card to it?
How difficult would it be. Cheers.

https://www.pccasegear.com/products...geforce-rtx-2080-ti-extreme-waterforce-wb-11g


----------



## ciarlatano

shadow85 said:


> I have a Swiftech H-240X cooling 1 cpu at the moment. Does anybody know if I can connect a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce RTX 2080 Ti graphics card to it?
> How difficult would it be. Cheers.
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products...geforce-rtx-2080-ti-extreme-waterforce-wb-11g


Of course, but you would really need another rad, also.


----------



## shadow85

ciarlatano said:


> shadow85 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Swiftech H-240X cooling 1 cpu at the moment. Does anybody know if I can connect a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce RTX 2080 Ti graphics card to it?
> How difficult would it be. Cheers.
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products...geforce-rtx-2080-ti-extreme-waterforce-wb-11g
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, but you would really need another rad, also.
Click to expand...

Kool, is anyone able to tell me the parts I would need to do it and would it be difficult for a noob lol?


----------



## Unknownm

Posted awhile back about replacing the water. Just wanted to make sure this is correct kind of distilled water. I already bought the mixture! 

First time replacing anything regarding watercooling so making sure









Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

Unknownm said:


> Posted awhile back about replacing the water. Just wanted to make sure this is correct kind of distilled water. I already bought the mixture!
> 
> First time replacing anything regarding watercooling so making sure


That is the correct water. :thumb:


----------



## doyll

shadow85 said:


> I have a Swiftech H-240X cooling 1 cpu at the moment. Does anybody know if I can connect a Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce RTX 2080 Ti graphics card to it?
> How difficult would it be. Cheers.
> 
> https://www.pccasegear.com/products...geforce-rtx-2080-ti-extreme-waterforce-wb-11g


 I was going to let someone with more knowledge answer you but as no-one has I will. I see no reason you couldn't add this GPU w/ waterblock to your loop, but I would suggest adding another 280mm or at least a 240mm radiator as well. While a single 280mm rad can probably cool both CPU and GPU it would be working hard (so making more noise) and quite possibly run hotter than you want.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> I was going to let someone with more knowledge answer you but as no-one has I will. I see no reason you couldn't add this GPU w/ waterblock to your loop, but I would suggest adding another 280mm or at least a 240mm radiator as well. While a single 280mm rad can probably cool both CPU and GPU it would be working hard (so making more noise) and quite possibly run hotter than you want.


Actually...as I pointed out when I responded to him (  ), he's going to need another rad for CPU+GPU. The 2080Ti is a monster as far as heat, it's like a throwback to the GTX 480. Adding a 240 or 280 will get the job done.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Actually...as I pointed out when I responded to him (  ), he's going to need another rad for CPU+GPU. The 2080Ti is a monster as far as heat, it's like a throwback to the GTX 480. Adding a 240 or 280 will get the job done.


Sorry, missed your post.


----------



## Madmaxneo

When I got my 1070 a while back I ended up getting a H140 to cool it and it does an amazing job. Much easier for maintenance when needing to do maintenance. A few weeks ago I needed to add a little fluid to my H140 and this weekend I am thinking about flushing my H240-X primarily because I have to check the TIM on the CPU. That will take me no longer than 20mins to remove and put the system back, flushing the system will take about 24 hrs (as recommended by the stuff I am using). If I had all that in a loop with my GPU it would take much longer to break down and redo everything.....


----------



## Kouri

Planning on picking up an H240 X3 as the base for a custom loop, expanding with a GPU block, 280 rad, and 140 rad.

Has anyone taken a look at the pump top in the X3 units? I'm curious if it's still possible to replace the AIO pump with an MCP50X like you could with the previous models. Probably going to be a bunch of 90° bends in this setup that I figure the stock pump will struggle with.


----------



## ciarlatano

Kouri said:


> Planning on picking up an H240 X3 as the base for a custom loop, expanding with a GPU block, 280 rad, and 140 rad.
> 
> Has anyone taken a look at the pump top in the X3 units? I'm curious if it's still possible to replace the AIO pump with an MCP50X like you could with the previous models. Probably going to be a bunch of 90° bends in this setup that I figure the stock pump will struggle with.


To my knowledge there has been absolutely no change to the top. Either way, the 30 and 50X are physically identical, so it will be direct replacement.


----------



## SDBolts619

Blast from the past. Largely finished upgrading my system last night from a 3770k to a 9900k. But I kept my original H220 since the newer units don't allow for a bottom mount solution. I removed, drained, flushed and refilled the system and was really happily surprised that there was no gunk at all inside despite it being 3 years or so since it was opened.

Not final pics, but here's a couple from late in the build:


----------



## Madmaxneo

SDBolts619 said:


> Blast from the past. Largely finished upgrading my system last night from a 3770k to a 9900k. But I kept my original H220 since the newer units don't allow for a bottom mount solution. I removed, drained, flushed and refilled the system and was really happily surprised that there was no gunk at all inside despite it being 3 years or so since it was opened.
> 
> Not final pics, but here's a couple from late in the build:


Nice! I've cleaned out my H240 X like three times now and except for the one time I was using less than good tubing it's been pretty clean! 

Did you do the board position mod yourself or is that a case I've simply never heard of?


----------



## SDBolts619

Madmaxneo said:


> Nice! I've cleaned out my H240 X like three times now and except for the one time I was using less than good tubing it's been pretty clean!
> 
> Did you do the board position mod yourself or is that a case I've simply never heard of?


It's a  Silverstone Raven RV02  - the motherboard is rotated 90 degrees, so the 'back panel' is on top. This means that the video card hangs vertically, which means any heat from it rises out of the case rather than up to the processor. I've always though the design was one of the best cooling airflow designs out there.


----------



## Madmaxneo

SDBolts619 said:


> It's a  Silverstone Raven RV02  - the motherboard is rotated 90 degrees, so the 'back panel' is on top. This means that the video card hangs vertically, which means any heat from it rises out of the case rather than up to the processor. I've always though the design was one of the best cooling airflow designs out there.


Yeah, I actually looked at your sig and realized the case was in there. I have been thinking about my next build (though it may be way off) and how I might go with the best cooling option I can get. Right now both my CPU and GPU are cooled by Swiftech AIOs but I'd like to get better in case thermals. I didn't really look into the rotated MBs much because I figured they were just a fad but when I looked up your MB I discovered they can actually provide a better cooling environment.....


----------



## Prebocraft

I have had the Swiftech H240X since mid 2015 on an intel 6600K OC @ 4.7. This last summer, I noticed that there was debris in the chamber behind the viewing window. I reviewed cleaning instructions via Swiftech's website and followed all of the instructions fully. I bought new coolant from Swiftech and used it in the more concentrated fashion. Hard to believe but I now have stuff growing in the chamber again. I just installed an EVGA CLC 280 which has a 5 year warranty. When gathering the leftovers to throw out, I came across the remaining coolant that was still in the original bottle. Unbelievably, there was crap growing in that too. I suspect that their coolant is total crap. I have now just recently thrown out everything swiftech. Quite disappointed.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Prebocraft said:


> I have had the Swiftech H240X since mid 2015 on an intel 6600K OC @ 4.7. This last summer, I noticed that there was debris in the chamber behind the viewing window. I reviewed cleaning instructions via Swiftech's website and followed all of the instructions fully. I bought new coolant from Swiftech and used it in the more concentrated fashion. Hard to believe but I now have stuff growing in the chamber again. I just installed an EVGA CLC 280 which has a 5 year warranty. When gathering the leftovers to throw out, I came across the remaining coolant that was still in the original bottle. Unbelievably, there was crap growing in that too. I suspect that their coolant is total crap. I have now just recently thrown out everything swiftech. Quite disappointed.


Sorry to hear that. 

When I first got into watercooling my rig I didn't want to go all out (nor did I have the money to do so) for a full custom loop and that's when I found Swiftech. It came highly recommended for beginners and for those that do not want the pain of maintaining a full custom loop. In my research just about everyone I talked to recommended replacing any coolant (no matter the brand) with something much better. I do not remember all the reasons people gave but I do remember the one that was mentioned the most and that was bacteria as most AIO coolants back then did not have a biocide in them. A few highly recommended Mayhems XT-1 and it is what I still use in my loop. About 3 years ago I had an issue with green gunk build up in my loop, I went through the normal cleaning procedures but that green gunk returned. It was explained to me that if it was bacteria in my loop then normal cleaning methods will not work and I would have to get a really good flush for my loop. That's when I discovered Sysprep and to be honest it really does a great job in cleaning out everything in the loop. But lo and behold the green gunk returned, but I soon discovered that whatever the buildup was, it was coming from the tubing I was using. It was recommended I use the PrimoFlex tubing. I ordered the Primoflex brilliant Blue UV, installed it and ran the Sysprep again, and my loop has remained crystal clear since then............and it still is (I had to take a closer look just in case...LOL). 

If you didn't know just about everyone I have talked to recommends flushing your system at least once a year if not more. I also believe that the older Swiftech coolant did not have any biocide in it (not sure about their newer stuff). Swiftech is still my #1 choice for an AIO (I currently have two swiftech AIOs in my system, look in my system info). They've not done me wrong so far and both the H240X and the H140 are doing a great job so far!


----------



## v1ral

Any info on the RGB fans that come with the X3 coolers? 
I plan on switching cases and I want to know if anyone has any pictures of the 240 X3 mounted in the PC-011 Dynamic cases? 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Madmaxneo

I recently had an issue with a bad sata cable to my games drive which was causing my system to freeze up like within 5 mins in playing a game. In the process of fixing that I decided to organize the chaotic mess of wires behind the MB. In the process of doing that I discovered the black wire in the adapter wire for the GPU fan connection (goes to the H140 fan) was slowly pushing it's way out. I reseated that and it all seems ok, but then I noticed something else. The res on my H140 is a bit low. This will be the second time in the last 8 months or so that I've had to top that one off, but I have never had to top off my H240-X res ever (other than the occasional flush and refill).

I checked and see no stains for slow leaks. Well at least the GPU res is much easier to refill (can do it in system while it is running if I so choose) than the CPU res (have to take out the entire AIO loop to do that...lol).

Is this common with the older H140's?


----------



## AlphaC

Drive x3 240 review is up 

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/Swiftech_H240X3_Drive_AIO/6.html


----------



## doyll

AlphaC said:


> Drive x3 240 review is up
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Swiftech/Swiftech_H240X3_Drive_AIO/6.html


Interesting review. I didn't notice any fan speed to temp data so kinda hard to know what noise levels to temps at stress load might be.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Interesting review. I didn't notice any fan speed to temp data so kinda hard to know what noise levels to temps at stress load might be.


Which was the same big omission in their review of the 360. Also, from the results we are seeing it seems that these new Helix RGB fans aren't doing the kit any favors. I'm interested to see what it looks like when teh Prestige models get released provided they retain the eLoops (or something similar in terms of performance).


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Which was the same big omission in their review of the 360. Also, from the results we are seeing it seems that these new Helix RGB fans aren't doing the kit any favors. I'm interested to see what it looks like when teh Prestige models get released provided they retain the eLoops (or something similar in terms of performance).


I'm withholding any opinion of fans until we see more data about fan speed to cooling. Above test shows new 240 cooler only 0-2c warmer than older, so maybe if fans are slowed down to compete with other 240 rads they would not be loud. Hard to tell.


----------



## Freiya

SDBolts619 said:


> Blast from the past. Largely finished upgrading my system last night from a 3770k to a 9900k. But I kept my original H220 since the newer units don't allow for a bottom mount solution. I removed, drained, flushed and refilled the system and was really happily surprised that there was no gunk at all inside despite it being 3 years or so since it was opened.
> 
> Not final pics, but here's a couple from late in the build:



Hey, what kind of temps do you get with the h220 and the i9900k? 

Are any of you using one of these things to cool a 2080ti + 8th or 9th gen intel. I'm thinking about buying the h360 x3 to cool a 9700k or 9900k and eventually adding my 2080 ti to it down the line but I'm trying to figure out if it's actually worth investing in this or if i'm just better off getting something super cheap now and spending a lil more later on a better liquid cooling setup. I want to be able to overclock both cpu and gpu. Does the swiftech actually compare to a custom loop at all?


----------



## ciarlatano

Freiya said:


> Hey, what kind of temps do you get with the h220 and the i9900k?
> 
> Are any of you using one of these things to cool a 2080ti + 8th or 9th gen intel. I'm thinking about buying the h360 x3 to cool a 9700k or 9900k and eventually adding my 2080 ti to it down the line but I'm trying to figure out if it's actually worth investing in this or if i'm just better off getting something super cheap now and spending a lil more later on a better liquid cooling setup. I want to be able to overclock both cpu and gpu. Does the swiftech actually compare to a custom loop at all?


A 9900K + 2080Ti is going to be tough to run off _any_ single 360mm rad when you start overclocking, a second rad would definitely be suggested when you add the 2080Ti. However, the H360 X3 does make a decent starting point. The components are essentially the equivalent of the EK S360 Kit if you want to look at it in those terms, and would have no issue supporting the GPU and additional rad.


----------



## Freiya

ciarlatano said:


> A 9900K + 2080Ti is going to be tough to run off _any_ single 360mm rad when you start overclocking, a second rad would definitely be suggested when you add the 2080Ti. However, the H360 X3 does make a decent starting point. The components are essentially the equivalent of the EK S360 Kit if you want to look at it in those terms, and would have no issue supporting the GPU and additional rad.


Thanks for the input. Adding an additional rad shouldn't be a problem if I already need to expand the loop to include gpu block. 

would anyone happen to know if the h360 x3 can fit in the Lian li 011 air/dynamic. I'm assuming it can and I've pretty much settled on the case for my build but can't hurt to be sure.


----------



## ciarlatano

Freiya said:


> Thanks for the input. Adding an additional rad shouldn't be a problem if I already need to expand the loop to include gpu block.
> 
> would anyone happen to know if the h360 x3 can fit in the Lian li 011 air/dynamic. I'm assuming it can and I've pretty much settled on the case for my build but can't hurt to be sure.


It should fit on top or the side (with res down) with plenty of room to spare, it's smaller than a number of rads that are confirmed to fit. Just keep in mind that the fans on the X3 are top mounted on the unit due to the res and pump being on the bottom of the rad.


----------



## Freiya

ciarlatano said:


> It should fit on top or the side (with res down) with plenty of room to spare, it's smaller than a number of rads that are confirmed to fit. Just keep in mind that the fans on the X3 are top mounted on the unit due to the res and pump being on the bottom of the rad.




Thanks for the help brother.


----------



## NIK1

Is Swiftech going to come out with a X3 model Liquid Cooler AIO that will have 140mm fans on it.I have a older H240x with 140's on it and is a lot quieter than the older Swiftech H220x I had before..


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone know where I can still get a H220-x G1/4 adapter anywhere? It seems not possible to get it anymore since this item is discontinued. I don't have the original fittings no more so I can't seem to use this AIO anymore


----------



## ciarlatano

ivoryg37 said:


> Does anyone know where I can still get a H220-x G1/4 adapter anywhere? It seems not possible to get it anymore since this item is discontinued. I don't have the original fittings no more so I can't seem to use this AIO anymore


Unfortunately, I haven't seen anyone be able to source one in a year or so. Did you lose the original barb fitting? I believe you can get them pretty easily through Swiftech customer service.


----------



## bluedevil

ivoryg37 said:


> Does anyone know where I can still get a H220-x G1/4 adapter anywhere? It seems not possible to get it anymore since this item is discontinued. I don't have the original fittings no more so I can't seem to use this AIO anymore


Welp, this is what you need. 
http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx

Found it here. Don't know the seller at all...
https://www.aerocooler.com/swiftech...-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump/

Ya know, maybe someone could 3D print you one? Just a thought. 

Let me dig around today, I have a few busted X2 res's that I think I might be able to salvage the fitting off of. I will PM you when I do get it.


----------



## ciarlatano

bluedevil said:


> Welp, this is what you need.
> http://www.swiftech.com/G1/4-ADAPTER.aspx
> 
> Found it here. Don't know the seller at all...
> https://www.aerocooler.com/swiftech...-outlet-port-fitting-for-mcp30-built-in-pump/
> 
> Ya know, maybe someone could 3D print you one? Just a thought.
> 
> Let me dig around today, I have a few busted X2 res's that I think I might be able to salvage the fitting off of. I will PM you when I do get it.


It's out of stock at Aerocooler if you try to add it to the cart.


----------



## bluedevil

ciarlatano said:


> It's out of stock at Aerocooler if you try to add it to the cart.


Found one for ya.  Shoot me a PM with your address and I should be able to get it out to ya on Monday. 

It broke right off the res....lmao.


----------



## ciarlatano

bluedevil said:


> Found one for ya.  Shoot me a PM with your address and I should be able to get it out to ya on Monday.
> 
> It broke right off the res....lmao.


I don't need one, @ivoryg37 needs one.


----------



## bluedevil

ciarlatano said:


> bluedevil said:
> 
> 
> 
> Found one for ya. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Shoot me a PM with your address and I should be able to get it out to ya on Monday. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> It broke right off the res....lmao.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't need one, @ivoryg37 needs one. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

My bad. Lol


----------



## ivoryg37

ciarlatano said:


> Unfortunately, I haven't seen anyone be able to source one in a year or so. Did you lose the original barb fitting? I believe you can get them pretty easily through Swiftech customer service.


Well, I still have the original barb fitting but one of them is leaking probably due to my own fault. Trying to use primochill tubing which was extremely tight even with heating the tubing so I had to try to wiggle the tubing on which I guess bend the fitting enough to leak somewhere inside the o-ring


----------



## Unknownm

Bought my H320 from NCIX Burnaby late 2014

4 years of ownership its about time to replace the liquid. Also because 1 year ago temps got high had to lower the overclock

Never changed liquid AIO before but through some guides and help of posts I FINALLY change it


Its not hard as I was thinking, copper block had good amount of black junk that helped raise those temps one year ago.



Last picture is with high voltage (applied year old overclock again) now sitting strong at 84c prime95 avx 4k









Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

Unknownm said:


> Bought my H320 from NCIX Burnaby late 2014
> 
> 4 years of ownership its about time to replace the liquid. Also because 1 year ago temps got high had to lower the overclock
> 
> Never changed liquid AIO before but through some guides and help of posts I FINALLY change it
> 
> 
> Its not hard as I was thinking, copper block had good amount of black junk that helped raise those temps one year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Last picture is with high voltage (applied year old overclock again) now sitting strong at 84c prime95 avx 4k
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


That black residue may either be plasticizer or oxidized metal residue (rust) from somewhere in your loop. Did you by chance run some sysprep (or something to clean it) through your loop before putting it all back together and filling it with the coolant?


----------



## Unknownm

Madmaxneo said:


> That black residue may either be plasticizer or oxidized metal residue (rust) from somewhere in your loop. Did you by chance run some sysprep (or something to clean it) through your loop before putting it all back together and filling it with the coolant?


emptied. Filled with distilled water, drain, refill, drain.

Added mixture than distilled, ran for 2 hours while tapping everywhere and topped up at the end

Scrape off that black junk with flat head and thin needle to get inbetween

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## vicyo

I have been wondering for a while, but has swiftech ever made DIY kits based on their drive systems like this one, or is it something the seller put together?
https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H28...07JG9YGDG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


----------



## Madmaxneo

vicyo said:


> I have been wondering for a while, but has swiftech ever made DIY kits based on their drive systems like this one, or is it something the seller put together?
> https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H28...07JG9YGDG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


That is a Swiftech AIO. 

All the Swiftech AIOs are essentially DIY kits and they've been making them for *at least* 5 or 6 years now (probably longer). I have had my H240-X in my machine for about 3 years and it runs fine. 
Look on the cooling kits section of the Swiftech site here.


----------



## vicyo

Madmaxneo said:


> That is a Swiftech AIO.
> 
> All the Swiftech AIOs are essentially DIY kits and they've been making them for *at least* 5 or 6 years now (probably longer). I have had my H240-X in my machine for about 3 years and it runs fine.
> Look on the cooling kits section of the Swiftech site here.


Wait, so all drive kits come fully disassembled? All reviews and photos that i found showed it came pre-filled.

Not to mention that the rad/reservoir/pump unit from mine looks completely different from the ones I've seen before (swiftech homepage doesn't really help too lol)


----------



## ciarlatano

vicyo said:


> I have been wondering for a while, but has swiftech ever made DIY kits based on their drive systems like this one, or is it something the seller put together?
> https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-H28...07JG9YGDG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


They did, but it was very brief and UTR.


----------



## BobBagels

hello hello,
I need to ask a question.

I have an original H240. The one with the bleeder screw going through the plastic window. (that has been long changed, screw removed, window replaced)
Its still running, keeps my 5930K (with a mild oc) nice and cool to this day.

However I see green in there. Now I know I can clean it out (which I will do) . But I am kinda thinking about getting a new one altogether and keeping what I have now for either something else or just as a spare.

Ive been thinking about the H360.
http://www.swiftech.com/drive-x3-aio.aspx
Which I am sure will fit in my case. (Phanteks Entho Primo)

My question is, considering I am already using a Swiftech CPU block would I have to change the back plate? Or would the new block line up & work with the old back plate ?


----------



## Unknownm

I have to say goodbye to my original H320 that had it's liquid replaced after 4 years about 2 months ago

I upgraded to 2600X and the H320 doesn't fit AM4. 

Now I'm selling it, thank you swiftech for making a awesome product


----------



## Madmaxneo

Unknownm said:


> I have to say goodbye to my original H320 that had it's liquid replaced after 4 years about 2 months ago
> 
> I upgraded to 2600X and the H320 doesn't fit AM4.
> 
> Now I'm selling it, thank you swiftech for making a awesome product


I wonder, can that rad be fitted with the pump from a H240-X? If so how much are you selling it for cause I may be interested.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> I wonder, can that rad be fitted with the pump from a H240-X? If so how much are you selling it for cause I may be interested.


Not easily. It doesn't have the res, which is what the pump mounts to. It is essentially a standard rad with an extra fill port.


----------



## Imprezzion

Unknownm said:


> Bought my H320 from NCIX Burnaby late 2014
> 
> 4 years of ownership its about time to replace the liquid. Also because 1 year ago temps got high had to lower the overclock
> 
> Never changed liquid AIO before but through some guides and help of posts I FINALLY change it
> 
> 
> Its not hard as I was thinking, copper block had good amount of black junk that helped raise those temps one year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Last picture is with high voltage (applied year old overclock again) now sitting strong at 84c prime95 avx 4k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


My old H320 from around the same period is also still running strong.

I had the same residu on my copper as well last time I cleaned it. I cleaned the plate with a toothbrush hehe. Works really well.

Only problem is, I overtightened a screw on the block and it stripped in the pump plastic. Had to replace it with a similar self-tapping screw with coarser thread. It's not leaking but it's a bit of a shame I did that 😞.

Not using it in my main rig but in a server running Minecraft private world and a TS3 server now. Only cooling a 4.5Ghz 2600K now and it never goes above 55c.


----------



## NIK1

I have a question for Swiftech owners..Is it OK to use Cool Labs Liquid Ultra Liquid Metal on a Swiftech H220X WaterBlock I have.I am going to delid the CPU anyway and wonder if its safe to put a tad on the waterblock too..I have heard great results from others who have tried this but not sure if they used Swiftech..Would like to ask here first to be certain.


----------



## zila

Unknownm said:


> I have to say goodbye to my original H320 that had it's liquid replaced after 4 years about 2 months ago
> 
> I upgraded to 2600X and the H320 doesn't fit AM4.
> 
> Now I'm selling it, thank you swiftech for making a awesome product


I'm using my Glacer 240L on my 2700X. I just had to get the Swiftech AM4 bracket for it. I have one for my Swiftech H220 too. The coolers work fine and all I needed was the brackets to use them on the newer chips. I wish they still made these.


----------



## Unknownm

zila said:


> I'm using my Glacer 240L on my 2700X. I just had to get the Swiftech AM4 bracket for it. I have one for my Swiftech H220 too. The coolers work fine and all I needed was the brackets to use them on the newer chips. I wish they still made these.


Yeah I figured theres some type adapter.

But really for what. My 2600X will hit 4.2ghz with 1.375v closer to 1.4v but currently 4.1ghz 1.3v

Attaching h320 just to gain 100mhz and whole 0.1v extra is not worth it.


However it was a great AIO it will be missed

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## MadGoat

Still rocking my H220 (with a MCP50X pump). Obviously a little modded but still love this cooler.


----------



## zila

MadGoat said:


> Still rocking my H220 (with a MCP50X pump). Obviously a little modded but still love this cooler.



Love the way it looks. Nice job.


----------



## ubbernewb

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-D...rentrq:b63025ec16c0a9cadb83a08afff72984|iid:1 how does that do on 3900x?


----------



## Heuchler

Apogee SKF-LT block seems like it might do better than other blocks that have in- and out-let at the center of the block.
Microchannels orientation could be a big factor with two CCDs (as in 3900X and 3950X).
Much bigger temperature spikes from my R5 1600 to R5 3600 using my H240-X.


----------



## doyll

ubbernewb said:


> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swiftech-D...rentrq:b63025ec16c0a9cadb83a08afff72984|iid:1 how does that do on 3900x?


Drive X3 Triple direct from Swiftech for $164.95 instead of $259.00 on e-bay.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Drive X3 Triple direct from Swiftech for $164.95 instead of $259.00 on e-bay.


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1731912-will-cool-amd-3900x-good.html#post28097628


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1731912-will-cool-amd-3900x-good.html#post28097628


----------



## ubbernewb

swiftech x3 aio is this what i use to mount on am4? the bag they are on shows intell but seems to be only thing to screw to it on top? second pic doesnt say which mount its for?


----------



## ubbernewb

also my old water kit is still in so to fill what should i plug it into? my old kit is using cpu fan can i just use any other header to run it so i can fill it?


----------



## ubbernewb

is this using stock amd backplate? this video doesnt show attaching anything to back of board?


----------



## Heuchler

ubbernewb said:


> swiftech x3 aio is this what i use to mount on am4? the bag they are on shows intell but seems to be only thing to screw to it on top? second pic doesnt say which mount its for?



Second bag should be AMD mount. 


Swiftech AP-XL-AMD4-BKT AMD Socket AM4 Mounting Hardware










Swiftech AMD-TR4-02 for Socket SP3 and TR4 and previous AM4 AM3 and AM2


----------



## ubbernewb

Heuchler said:


> Second bag should be AMD mount.
> 
> 
> Swiftech AP-XL-AMD4-BKT AMD Socket AM4 Mounting Hardware
> View attachment 292324
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech AMD-TR4-02 for Socket SP3 and TR4 and previous AM4 AM3 and AM2
> View attachment 292326


 all i have for mounts is the bottom pic, pic says tr4 does that work on am4?


----------



## ubbernewb

just double and triple checked thats only 1 i have not the other will it work on am4 or do i need to call swiftech? for other mount set?


----------



## Madmaxneo

ubbernewb said:


> also my old water kit is still in so to fill what should i plug it into? my old kit is using cpu fan can i just use any other header to run it so i can fill it?


I am not sure exactly what you are asking but normally you remove the unit from your PC to fill it. It's a lot easier that way. It also makes it a bit easier to remove the block from the CPU but leave all the tubing intact.

But (and there's always one of those), I always have difficulty filling it all the way without any bubbles unless I do the following:
1. Turn the power off at the PSU and remove the AIO from the PC.
2. Drain and fill the unit with the appropriate fluid.
3. Sit the unit outside your PC with the tubing still in tact.
4. Disconnect the power to the motherboard. If you don't do this then the PC will attempt to start and will fault due to not having anything to cool the CPU.
5. Connect the power header for your Swiftech AIO.
6. Ensure the unit is standing up so that the fill port is pointing upwards and open it.
7. Cycle the PSU on with the PSU switch let it run for a couple seconds then turn it off. Some bubble should release out the top.
8. Fill it (should only be a few drops at a time.
9. Repeat steps 7 & 8 as needed until the unit is mostly full. It is good to leave a tiny bit of space for expansion when and if the water gets warm.
10. Once you have it filled enough close it up and turn the power on and let it run for an hour. this is to check for leaks. If there are no leaks reconnect everything back into your PC.
11. Run your PC but CHECK FOR LEAKS often over the next day or so. In fact it may be a good idea to set some paper towels below the unit to see any minor leaks that may be happening. 

Remember to fix all leaks no matter how minor right away!


----------



## Heuchler

ubbernewb said:


> just double and triple checked thats only 1 i have not the other will it work on am4 or do i need to call swiftech? for other mount set?


Looks like the correct screws are pre-installed on the AMD bracket (only need to change them if you are going Threadripper). Just undo the four screws on top of you motherboard. keep the motherboards backplate.

Adjust the screws on the AMD bracket to match the motherboard holes. Screw everything back together in an x pattern (hopefully you put the CPU and TIM in at some point). Some motherboard makers glue their backplate to the board.

if not, temporarily secure it tape, cardboard box, old copy of computer shopper or double side tape for something more permanent. worst case ask somebody to hold for you.


----------



## ubbernewb

Madmaxneo is was saying i have a waterkit allready installed but am removing it to install the x3, also does it come totaly full? i thought the tubes were colored white but nope it the fluid it seems like it at least has some so, wondering if need to top it up or its probably full


----------



## ubbernewb

i talked to tech at swiftech he said it should be FULL


----------



## Herp123

Does anyone have any luck with the G1/4 adapter for the H220X?
Seems to be more rare than a unicorn..


----------



## ciarlatano

Herp123 said:


> Does anyone have any luck with the G1/4 adapter for the H220X?
> Seems to be more rare than a unicorn..


It's been discontinued for several years. A lot of asks in this thread, but I haven't seen anyone actually finding one. If you stay with 3/8" ID tubing, they are really unnecessary.


----------



## Herp123

ciarlatano said:


> It's been discontinued for several years. A lot of asks in this thread, but I haven't seen anyone actually finding one. If you stay with 3/8" ID tubing, they are really unnecessary.


Oh I see.. That's really a shame, was planning to use rigid tubing. I might end up with ZMT tubing


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Has anyone got much experience with the x3? Seems like the 3 fan would be a neat way to cool my cpu and gpu. Does the pump have enough power to keep the flow up through a CPU, gpu stock combo unit and maybe another rad?

Rig: Ryzen 3600 + HTC 1080ti all in a Corsair Air 740


----------



## ciarlatano

Mr.N00bLaR said:


> Has anyone got much experience with the x3? Seems like the 3 fan would be a neat way to cool my cpu and gpu. Does the pump have enough power to keep the flow up through a CPU, gpu stock combo unit and maybe another rad?
> 
> Rig: Ryzen 3600 + HTC 1080ti all in a Corsair Air 740


It was designed with the expansion to a GPU and additional rad in mind. This is exactly what it was intended for and it does it very well. Adding a third rad is typically not an issue, either, but adding a third block would be pushing it.


----------



## v1ral

I have an odd question hopefully someone can chime in.
So the SATA power cable on both the splitter and the pump melted/Shorted, I don't like SATA powered cables only for drives anyways.... 
I want to convert those cables to 4 pin molex, I see that PPCS sales Swiftech's splitter in the older Molex type, but my question is the pump side. I see the wire has a solid black wire and the other has a white/gray broken line, my question is which one is negative and which one is positive?

I am trying NOT to bin my H220X or get the newer cooler!
Thanks for your time!


----------



## ciarlatano

v1ral said:


> I have an odd question hopefully someone can chime in.
> So the SATA power cable on both the splitter and the pump melted/Shorted, I don't like SATA powered cables only for drives anyways....
> I want to convert those cables to 4 pin molex, I see that PPCS sales Swiftech's splitter in the older Molex type, but my question is the pump side. I see the wire has a solid black wire and the other has a white/gray broken line, my question is which one is negative and which one is positive?
> 
> I am trying NOT to bin my H220X or get the newer cooler!
> Thanks for your time!


It should be identifiable by location.


----------



## Justinator

I just bought an X3 H360, I know it's not listed for this club but can I get in anyway? 

Also, I've seen some criticism of the noise and cooling performance of the included IRIS Helix fans. I have some EK Vardar 120 ER EVO RGBs around that look to be about 30% better for airflow and static pressure. Do you think it's worth changing them, or will the Helixes be enough as is?


----------



## ciarlatano

Justinator said:


> I just bought an X3 H360, I know it's not listed for this club but can I get in anyway?
> 
> Also, I've seen some criticism of the noise and cooling performance of the included IRIS Helix fans. I have some EK Vardar 120 ER EVO RGBs around that look to be about 30% better for airflow and static pressure. Do you think it's worth changing them, or will the Helixes be enough as is?


if you have the Vardars, use them. The Helix are the weak link in the X3. Their low to mid Ron performance is pretty dreadful.


----------



## ciarlatano

@chrisjames61

See attached


----------



## chrisjames61

ciarlatano said:


> @chrisjames61
> 
> See attached


Thanks! It was 50/50 that I got it right and with dumb luck I did just that!


----------



## KillerBee33

Mr.N00bLaR said:


> Has anyone got much experience with the x3? Seems like the 3 fan would be a neat way to cool my cpu and gpu. Does the pump have enough power to keep the flow up through a CPU, gpu stock combo unit and maybe another rad?
> 
> Rig: Ryzen 3600 + HTC 1080ti all in a Corsair Air 740


Got an old H320X2 Prestige on a loop with 6700K @ 4.6/1,320V and a Titan XP, well, "HAD" ...it finally started to leak after 4 years so i just ordered X3. It did the job well!


----------



## chrisjames61

KillerBee33 said:


> Got an old H320X2 Prestige on a loop with 6700K @ 4.6/1,320V and a Titan XP, well, "HAD" ...it finally started to leak after 4 years so i just ordered X3. It did the job well!


Probably would have been very easy to identify the leak and fix it.


----------



## KillerBee33

chrisjames61 said:


> Probably would have been very easy to identify the leak and fix it.


It was the the nut inside the reservoir (where it connects with the pump) which got cracked and i wasnt gonna glue anything that already started cracking.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have been waiting on my H-240X to start leaking since the last time (2 or 3 years ago) I changed the window it cracked and one of the screws are stripped out. Been running in my machine with no issues so far. I have changed the fluid out a few times since installing it though. I really really want to get one of the X3's (probably the 360) but it is not in my budget right now...lol.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> I have been waiting on my H-240X to start leaking since the last time (2 or 3 years ago) I changed the window it cracked and one of the screws are stripped out. Been running in my machine with no issues so far. I have changed the fluid out a few times since installing it though. I really really want to get one of the X3's (probably the 360) but it is not in my budget right now...lol.


Mine did good for 4 years and back in 2016 their Customer Support was great, so i decided to stick with swiftech for the time bein'. The 360X3 by what i see has no difference from X2, i used old fans Noise Blocker and kept the cpu block from X2.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Mine did good for 4 years and back in 2016 their Customer Support was great, so i decided to stick with swiftech for the time bein'. The 360X3 by what i see has no difference from X2, i used old fans Noise Blocker and kept the cpu block from X2.


I'm sure there were people from back then who say the customer service was crap at that time...lol. 

I upgraded my old X block to a Heatkiller IV Pro and I still use the fans that came with the H 240-X unit (both have been replaced once). Are there a better fans I can use than the ones that came with the H240-X? 
I also have an H140 that cools my GPU with a Heatkiller IV pro block. But that one is only maybe 2 years old.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> I'm sure there were people from back then who say the customer service was crap at that time...lol.
> 
> I upgraded my old X block to a Heatkiller IV Pro and I still use the fans that came with the H 240-X unit (both have been replaced once). Are there a better fans I can use than the ones that came with the H240-X?


I still have the unused H320X2 fans plus these new ones from X3. Gonna run my NB-eLoop Series 120 until they burn out. Not sure about the performance, havent tried other fans in 4 years


----------



## KillerBee33

I think i've asked this before but can someone suggest idle RPM for 360X3 pump, i got CPU+GPU loop and added a 240 rad. on top. In order "pump to CPU-Top radiator-GPU-Main radiator"


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> I'm sure there were people from back then who say the customer service was crap at that time...lol.
> 
> I upgraded my old X block to a Heatkiller IV Pro and I still use the fans that came with the H 240-X unit (both have been replaced once). Are there a better fans I can use than the ones that came with the H240-X?
> I also have an H140 that cools my GPU with a Heatkiller IV pro block. But that one is only maybe 2 years old.


There are a great number of fans better than the 120mm Helix that were included with the H240-X. The Swiftech fans were always the weak link in the package, which is why the Prestige units came with eLoops that improved performance. An inexpensive option would be something like the Phanteks F120MP which has significantly better performance and can be found for ~$12-14 each. Or you could go into best of the best territory with the be quiet Silent Wings 3.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> There are a great number of fans better than the 120mm Helix that were included with the H240-X. The Swiftech fans were always the weak link in the package, which is why the Prestige units came with eLoops that improved performance. An inexpensive option would be something like the Phanteks F120MP which has significantly better performance and can be found for ~$12-14 each. Or you could go into best of the best territory with the be quiet Silent Wings 3.


The H240-X was 2 140mm fans. I am not even sure there are mounting holes for 120 mm fans. 

Are there better 140mm fans for this than the Helix fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> The H240-X was 2 140mm fans. I am not even sure there are mounting holes for 120 mm fans.
> 
> Are there better 140mm fans for this than the Helix fans?


Sorry, totally forgot about the old naming scheme for a second. The same holds true for 140mm fans, with the same recommendations in 140mm size - the Phanteks F140MP and Silent Wings 3.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> Sorry, totally forgot about the old naming scheme for a second. The same holds true for 140mm fans, with the same recommendations in 140mm size - the Phanteks F140MP and Silent Wings 3.


Cool, thanks. I already had those up in Amazon. I may order two of them then maybe one for the H120, or is that an H140?....LOL I really need to look at it...

EDIT: Yeah, that old naming scheme was hard to understand for a lot of people, I think that's why they changed it to a more standard naming scheme...lol.


----------



## feedbackq

Does anyone know how the warranty works? I recently was gifted with a new X2 with a receipt but its not under my name.


----------



## KillerBee33

Anyone have experience with XSPC EC6 High Performance Premix Coolant, 1000 mL, Green UV? I cant find Nanoxia CF No.1 UV Green that i've been using for the past 4 years.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Anyone have experience with XSPC EC6 High Performance Premix Coolant, 1000 mL, Green UV? I cant find Nanoxia CF No.1 UV Green that i've been using for the past 4 years.


I used it once and had bacterial growth after 4 months. Try a switch to Mayhems fluids, most who use them will never go back to anything else.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> I used it once and had bacterial growth after 4 months. Try a switch to Mayhems fluids, most who use them will never go back to anything else.


I'm between two producs
1-http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/ec6-coolant-uv-green
2-https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-solid-neon-green-premix-1000-ml
EC6 is CLEAR and specs are exactly the same as Nanoxia which did a great job for a long time, EK is SOLID and call me crazy but i've been watching Jay a lot and he's never happy with EK's liquids.
BTW this is Nanoxia after 4 years of abuse without flush and this image just drained "not flushed"


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> I'm between two producs
> 1-http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/ec6-coolant-opaque-uv-green
> 2-https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-solid-neon-green-premix-1000-ml
> EC6 is CLEAR and specs are exactly the same as Nanoxia which did a great job for a long time, EK is SOLID and call me crazy but i've been watching Jay a lot and he's never happy with EK's liquids.
> BTW this is Nanoxia after 4 years of abuse without flush and this image just drained "not flushed"


Then go with the EC6. Neither you or Jay is crazy, EK fluids are garbage. Plenty of issues with them reported on this site.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Anyone have experience with XSPC EC6 High Performance Premix Coolant, 1000 mL, Green UV? I cant find Nanoxia CF No.1 UV Green that i've been using for the past 4 years.





ciarlatano said:


> I used it once and had bacterial growth after 4 months. Try a switch to Mayhems fluids, most who use them will never go back to anything else.


I second this. I switched to Mayhems about 4 years ago with the XT-1 and I am still using the same bottle. I changed out my rad fans and decided to flush my system just last night and I thought I would see some kind of build up after about 2 + years, but the fluid was crystal clear.


----------



## KillerBee33

Thanx. I'm gonna give the XSPC EC6 a shot.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Thanx. I'm gonna give the XSPC EC6 a shot.


That seems logical.....both people who respond to you tell you to use Mayhems, with one telling you of a bad experience with the EC6 so you choose EC6. :doh:

@skupples, any thoughts on this?


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> That seems logical.....both people who respond to you tell you to use Mayhems, with one telling you of a bad experience with the EC6 so you choose EC6. :doh:
> 
> @skupples, any thoughts on this?


LOL!!! I don't know dude, something about Mayhems just does not sit right with me.


----------



## Shawnb99

KillerBee33 said:


> LOL!!! I don't know dude, something about Mayhems just does not sit right with me.




It’s the best fluid period


----------



## KillerBee33

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s the best fluid period


Well, I'm conviced !!! ????


----------



## Shawnb99

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, I'm conviced !!! ????



Great! Glad to hear it 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spin5000

Still using the original H320 (in push/pull) that Swiftech unfortunately had to stop selling due to some patent crap a while back. The cooler is a beast and amazing still do this day like, I don't know, around 5-7 years later or something. It cooled overclocked/overvolted 4930Ks, a 5930K, an 8700K and now a 9700K like a beast. It laughs at the 9700K at 5.2 GHz in the 1.35v - 1.38v area (as long as not using crazy AVX, lol). I have the slightly updated revision of the original H320 which included an upgraded/revised pump (if I remember correctly, the revised version can be distinguished with 3 cables instead of 2 coming out of the pump/block or something like that). Anyways, I just want to say the Swiftech H320 is amazing and going strong as hell still to this day and with modern, overclocked/overvolted processors. Easily the best cooler I've owned in my life.


----------



## toolmaker03

KillerBee33 said:


> LOL!!! I don't know dude, something about Mayhems just does not sit right with me.


 personally I would not use any of the stuff mentioned. swiftech makes a good coolant, and koolance 702 clear is a good coolant. I use a 20% prestone (green) antifreeze, with a 80% distilled water mix. I have been using this for over 20 years now and I have never had a issues with it.


----------



## toolmaker03

spin5000 said:


> Still using the original H320 (in push/pull) that Swiftech unfortunately had to stop selling due to some patent crap a while back. The cooler is a beast and amazing still do this day like, I don't know, around 5-7 years later or something. It cooled overclocked/overvolted 4930Ks, a 5930K, an 8700K and now a 9700K like a beast. It laughs at the 9700K at 5.2 GHz in the 1.35v - 1.38v area (as long as not using crazy AVX, lol). I have the slightly updated revision of the original H320 which included an upgraded/revised pump (if I remember correctly, the revised version can be distinguished with 3 cables instead of 2 coming out of the pump/block or something like that). Anyways, I just want to say the Swiftech H320 is amazing and going strong as hell still to this day and with modern, overclocked/overvolted processors. Easily the best cooler I've owned in my life.



for what ever reason swiftech has made some really good kits in the past. I personally own two H2O quite power systems, these systems are over 20 years old today, and I still use the PC cases that came with the kit. thank you swiftech, for building products that last.


----------



## Justinator

I've got the X3 H360 with a CPU unit only. What pump speed would be best for heat dissipation?


----------



## KillerBee33

Justinator said:


> I've got the X3 H360 with a CPU unit only. What pump speed would be best for heat dissipation?


I got a CPU+GPU loop of a 360X3 pump runs @1800-1900 on idle and set to run 100% "APROX. 3000RPM" @ 65 degrees.


----------



## TMatzelle60

With the H360 X3 can I use my noise blocker fans instead of there's and just have the cpu showing its RGB and use there controller/splitter to control the color of the cpu block


----------



## ciarlatano

Justinator said:


> I've got the X3 H360 with a CPU unit only. What pump speed would be best for heat dissipation?


The only way to figure that out is by testing your specific build. There is no magic number, as it will vary greatly from build to build.

Set the pump and fans at full speed and heatsoak the loop using a consistent stress test. Once stabilized, back down the speed of the pump by 250 rpm and wait ten minutes. Repeat this until you see a temperature rise. Once you see a temp rise, raise the speed of the pump by 250 rpm. This will set you at your minimum speed without any loss of performance.




TMatzelle60 said:


> With the H360 X3 can I use my noise blocker fans instead of there's and just have the cpu showing its RGB and use there controller/splitter to control the color of the cpu block


Yes.


----------



## Justinator

KillerBee33 said:


> I got a CPU+GPU loop of a 360X3 pump runs @1800-1900 on idle and set to run 100% "APROX. 3000RPM" @ 65 degrees.


Fantastic, that gives me a great point of comparison, ta



ciarlatano said:


> The only way to figure that out is by testing your specific build. There is no magic number, as it will vary greatly from build to build.
> 
> Set the pump and fans at full speed and heatsoak the loop using a consistent stress test. Once stabilized, back down the speed of the pump by 250 rpm and wait ten minutes. Repeat this until you see a temperature rise. Once you see a temp rise, raise the speed of the pump by 250 rpm. This will set you at your minimum speed without any loss of performance.


I understand, having a method to solve for pump speed will allow me to optimize that. Much appreciated


----------



## Hokies83

Hmm h360 x3 + 2 additional 360 rads + Lian li front distro + cpu and 1 gpu block?


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Hmm h360 x3 + 2 additional 360 rads + Lian li front distro + cpu and 1 gpu block?


2nd radiator will just take up space in my opinion, but what do i know i aded a single 240 as exhaust and saw no difference


----------



## Hokies83

KillerBee33 said:


> Hokies83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm h360 x3 + 2 additional 360 rads + Lian li front distro + cpu and 1 gpu block?
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd radiator will just take up space in my opinion, but what do i know i aded a single 240 as exhaust and saw no difference
Click to expand...

Fans on low + looks 😉

011 dynamic has 3 360 rad mount locations, want to use them, the h100i although good cannot maintain silent operation with an OC with a cpu demanding title. I want dead silence lol

I’m also selling the swift tech block and using the Corsair XC7 block, only reason I got the H360 is to help me hide stuff. I want the only visible thing to be lines running to the cpu,


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Fans on low + looks 😉


I guess if you go for a Color Theme and paint them, not sure how the 3000RPM pump will handle all that. Post it when it works out.


----------



## Hokies83

KillerBee33 said:


> Hokies83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fans on low + looks 😉
> 
> 
> 
> I guess if you go for a Color Theme and paint them, not sure how the 3000RPM pump will handle all that. Post it when it works out.
Click to expand...

Swiftech says it’s ok.


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Swiftech says it’s ok.


mINE RUNS @ 1800 TO 1900 rpm all the way to 50C and it is silent, even @ 3000RPM it is still a slight buzz. Good luck and post this here when its done


----------



## Hokies83

KillerBee33 said:


> Hokies83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech says itâ€™️s ok.
> 
> 
> 
> mINE RUNS @ 1800 TO 1900 rpm all the way to 50C and it is silent, even @ 3000RPM it is still a slight buzz. Good luck and post this here when its done
Click to expand...


Ah I’m a bit of an extremist,
This is me atm
https://youtu.be/iZgaiXOkojg

https://youtu.be/lqLeoq6f3Nk

And this is my previous build pic linked.


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Ah I’m a bit of an extremist,
> This is me atm
> https://youtu.be/iZgaiXOkojg
> 
> https://youtu.be/lqLeoq6f3Nk
> 
> And this is my previous build pic linked.


Heh , i built mines for the looks when it was a center of the livingroom , now its sitting silently in the corner


----------



## Hokies83

KillerBee33 said:


> Hokies83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah Iâ€™️m a bit of an extremist,
> This is me atm
> https://youtu.be/iZgaiXOkojg
> 
> https://youtu.be/lqLeoq6f3Nk
> 
> And this is my previous build pic linked.
> 
> 
> 
> Heh , i built mines for the looks when it was a center of the livingroom , now its sitting silently in the corner /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

I just do it cause I like to get free stuff lol


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> I just do it cause I like to get free stuff lol


Free is great but if it's PC related free...i don't even have time to change 4 year old liquid


----------



## Hokies83

Cost of fittings is ridiculous, think goodness for barrow, bitspower have lost their minds. But jeez takes a month to get barrow fittings


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Cost of fittings is ridiculous, think goodness for barrow, bitspower have lost their minds. But jeez takes a month to get barrow fittings


I got few elbows from bitspower and the rest orered from swiftech.


----------



## Hokies83

KillerBee33 said:


> Hokies83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cost of fittings is ridiculous, think goodness for barrow, bitspower have lost their minds. But jeez takes a month to get barrow fittings
> 
> 
> 
> I got few elbows from bitspower and the rest orered from swiftech.
Click to expand...

Yea I need like 4 90s for the front res so everything gets some fluid. But that can wait, I’m not doing the front res until RTX 3xxx cause I can’t bring myself to remove the cooler on the Aorus rtx 2080 super


----------



## KillerBee33

Hokies83 said:


> Yea I need like 4 90s for the front res so everything gets some fluid. But that can wait, I’m not doing the front res until RTX 3xxx cause I can’t bring myself to remove the cooler on the Aorus rtx 2080 super


Well, the cost and time replacing my old TXP for any of the RTX cards is useless for me now. I do no work on it it's just an entertainment unit and only 3 main games Borderlands 3, NFS Heat and Forza, all run at the highest settings w/o issues. I'll be looking into upgrade sometime at the end of this 2020 year after new nvidia release and the war between intel & amd settles


----------



## Hokies83

Mounted to n back side of Lian Li dynamic gonna run it in threw the removable HHD bay in the back... bad pic and raw atm
Got the alphacool XT45 mounted inside as well


----------



## ntuason

Does anyone know if the H360X3 Drive X3s pump is powerful enough to handle 2 360mm rads and a Watercooled 2080Ti?


----------



## Hokies83

ntuason said:


> Does anyone know if the H360X3 Drive X3s pump is powerful enough to handle 2 360mm rads and a Watercooled 2080Ti?


Swiftech says yes.


----------



## ciarlatano

ntuason said:


> Does anyone know if the H360X3 Drive X3s pump is powerful enough to handle 2 360mm rads and a Watercooled 2080Ti?


Absolutely. That is exactly what it was designed for,


----------



## ntuason

Hokies83 said:


> Swiftech says yes.





ciarlatano said:


> Absolutely. That is exactly what it was designed for,


Awesome great to hear I bought the H360X3 instead of the EK-MLC Phoenix 360, though I bet they'd be similar in performance?


----------



## ciarlatano

ntuason said:


> Awesome great to hear I bought the H360X3 instead of the EK-MLC Phoenix 360, though I bet they'd be similar in performance?


The Swiftech has a better pump, and is easier to refill and expand. Performance is similar, but the stock Swiftech fans really hinder it.


----------



## ntuason

ciarlatano said:


> The Swiftech has a better pump, and is easier to refill and expand. Performance is similar, but the stock Swiftech fans really hinder it.


Ya I’m using the stock fans right now and they don’t seem to push a lot of air through the rad. I’m trying to research which fans to go with but there’s an overwhelming selection LOL.

Would you be able to recommend something that’s good for radiators?

Thank you


----------



## Hokies83

I’m doing 3 360s rads myself the h360 + 2 more, with that much rad you can get away with avg fans,
I kept the stocks on the h360 and using Corsair hd120s on one 360 and LL120s on another,
I’ll audibly adjust them till I can’t hear them, then leave them there lol


----------



## ciarlatano

ntuason said:


> Ya I’m using the stock fans right now and they don’t seem to push a lot of air through the rad. I’m trying to research which fans to go with but there’s an overwhelming selection LOL.
> 
> Would you be able to recommend something that’s good for radiators?
> 
> Thank you


A lot of that is going to depend on whether or not you find the RGB a necessity. If so.....the only decent RGB fan I am aware of is the Corsair ML120. If you don't need RGB, the Noctua NF-A12X25 is the vest of the best, be quiet Silent Wings 3 being another top choice. If you are looking for something a little more budget friendly (I think....I know pricing in Canada is really wonky), there is the Phanteks F120MP or Arctic P12. And....keep in mind that you can go with any of these fans with no RGB and add Phanteks Halo frames for the best of all worlds.


----------



## ntuason

Hokies83 said:


> I’m doing 3 360s rads myself the h360 + 2 more, with that much rad you can get away with avg fans,
> I kept the stocks on the h360 and using Corsair hd120s on one 360 and LL120s on another,
> I’ll audibly adjust them till I can’t hear them, then leave them there lol


That's insane. Did you see a big improvement when adding a third rad or did you start with 3 from the from the get-go?



ciarlatano said:


> A lot of that is going to depend on whether or not you find the RGB a necessity. If so.....the only decent RGB fan I am aware of is the Corsair ML120. If you don't need RGB, the Noctua NF-A12X25 is the vest of the best, be quiet Silent Wings 3 being another top choice. If you are looking for something a little more budget friendly (I think....I know pricing in Canada is really wonky), there is the Phanteks F120MP or Arctic P12. And....keep in mind that you can go with any of these fans with no RGB and add Phanteks Halo frames for the best of all worlds.


I don't really care for RGB since its going to be in a ''push'' configuration on the H360X3 and wont see it. I really want those Noctua NF-A12X25 but at $40 for one in Canada LOL! I'll have to settle for the P12. 
I have my H360X3 on top pushing air into the case and the other 360 rad pushing air in also, I'll probably push/pull the other rad to compensate for the poor performance of the helix 120 iris. 

Thanks for the assistance. +Rep


----------



## doyll

ntuason said:


> That's insane. Did you see a big improvement when adding a third rad or did you start with 3 from the from the get-go?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really care for RGB since its going to be in a ''push'' configuration on the H360X3 and wont see it. I really want those Noctua NF-A12X25 but at $40 for one in Canada LOL! I'll have to settle for the P12.
> I have my H360X3 on top pushing air into the case and the other 360 rad pushing air in also, I'll probably push/pull the other rad to compensate for the poor performance of the helix 120 iris.
> 
> Thanks for the assistance. +Rep


Just a caution, if you have 6x 120mm vents and fans pushing air into case through radiators you also need similar 6x 120mm vents letting that 6x of air out of case. If case only has 3x 120mm vents for exhaust then the 6x 120mm intakes can only move as much air into the case as the 3x exhaust vents can let out. A case can only flow as much air in as it can flow out .. whichever is smaller (intake vs exhaust area) limits the maximum case airflow. There can't be more air going into the case than is coming out of it .. simple physics.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Just a caution, if you have 6x 120mm vents and fans pushing air into case through radiators you also need similar 6x 120mm vents letting that 6x of air out of case. If case only has 3x 120mm vents for exhaust then the 6x 120mm intakes can only move as much air into the case as the 3x exhaust vents can let out. A case can only flow as much air in as it can flow out .. whichever is smaller (intake vs exhaust area) limits the maximum case airflow. There can't be more air going into the case than is coming out of it .. simple physics.


What if he has six 120mm fans as intakes going through rads with the fans spinning at 750rpm....while having three 120mm exhaust which are mostly unimpeded running at 2500 rpm? 

Mind you, I do agree with you that there should be actual airflow for the case rather than everything just blowing air in. And your simple physics are simply correct.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> What if he has six 120mm fans as intakes going through rads with the fans spinning at 750rpm....while having three 120mm exhaust which are mostly unimpeded running at 2500 rpm?
> 
> Mind you, I do agree with you that there should be actual airflow for the case rather than everything just blowing air in. And your simple physics are simply correct.


So you suggest running exhausts 2x or 3x fans at 4x or 8x higher noise levels than 6x intake fans on radiator? Wouldn't it make more sense to have one 360mm rad as intake and one as exhaust?

But seriously, isn't ntuason using a Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case with four 3x 120mm vent sets, one in bottom and two on right side near front and one in top, plus 2x 80mm vents in back over motherboard I/O. He should be fine with just the 6x good intake/radiator fans as intake, although I would consider using them as exhaust and keep case air temp lower so all components that are not under waterblocks have optimal cooling. :thumb:


----------



## TK421

ntuason said:


> Does anyone know if the H360X3 Drive X3s pump is powerful enough to handle 2 360mm rads and a Watercooled 2080Ti?





Hokies83 said:


> Swiftech says yes.





ciarlatano said:


> Absolutely. That is exactly what it was designed for,





ntuason said:


> Awesome great to hear I bought the H360X3 instead of the EK-MLC Phoenix 360, though I bet they'd be similar in performance?





Some concern on this too. 



I want to build a custom loop but unsure if I should keep anything from my DriveX3, rather than just buy a new pump/res+360 rad to go along with it. Or maybe I should just swap the waterblock for an Optimus AM4 one.














ciarlatano said:


> The Swiftech has a better pump, and is easier to refill and expand. Performance is similar, but the stock Swiftech fans really hinder it.





ntuason said:


> Ya I’m using the stock fans right now and they don’t seem to push a lot of air through the rad. I’m trying to research which fans to go with but there’s an overwhelming selection LOL.
> 
> Would you be able to recommend something that’s good for radiators?
> 
> Thank you



I swapped the swiftech fan for Gentle Typhoon 2150s and drop temp around 6-8c on full load.



X99 5820K 4.5G, ~220-240w.


I found out those Helix stuff are just really cheap chinese fans that everyone is rebranding and selling.


----------



## Hokies83

Just waiting on my QDC to get here.
Looks clean to me 🙂

3 360’rads so I can run all fans at minimum speed, that’s the only reason.


----------



## Hokies83

10c temp drop vs h100i platinum,


----------



## v1ral

Itx case that can fit a H220X?


----------



## ntuason

Does anyone know exactly how strong the pump is in the Swiftech H360X3 Drive X3 compared to D5 or DDC? Is the Drive X3 like a quarter the strength of tese standalone pumps?

I ask because I expanded to two 360mm rads, a 200mm reservoir and in the future planning to water cool the GPU and add in another 360 rad. How do I figure out if I’m reaching the headroom or surpassing the capabilities of Drive X3 pump?

Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

ntuason said:


> Does anyone know exactly how strong the pump is in the Swiftech H360X3 Drive X3 compared to D5 or DDC? Is the Drive X3 like a quarter the strength of tese standalone pumps?
> 
> I ask because I expanded to two 360mm rads, a 200mm reservoir and in the future planning to water cool the GPU and add in another 360 rad. How do I figure out if I’m reaching the headroom or surpassing the capabilities of Drive X3 pump?
> 
> Thanks


I had the exact specs, but can't find them. I do recall the head pressure being ~2.2m, and flow rate being over 1gpm. Essentially the pump was designed to comfortably handle two blocks and two rads. Anything beyond that you need to slook at adding an additional pump, or simply replacing the stock pump with the MCP50X (which is a direct replacement). The MCP50X has similar performance to an MCP35X DDC (https://thermalbench.com/2015/01/05/swiftech-mcp50x-pump/4/), but is quieter and does not have the DDC's heat issues.


----------



## ntuason

That MCP50X sounds interesting thank you! 
Just out of curiosity, if I were to purchase a reservoir + pump (D5) combo and add it to my loop, would I run into trouble mixing H360X3 weaker pump with the D5? 
Wouldn’t the weaker H360X3 pump struggle to keep up with the D5?

+Rep.


----------



## ciarlatano

ntuason said:


> That MCP50X sounds interesting thank you!
> Just out of curiosity, if I were to purchase a reservoir + pump (D5) combo and add it to my loop, would I run into trouble mixing H360X3 weaker pump with the D5?
> Wouldn’t the weaker H360X3 pump struggle to keep up with the D5?
> 
> +Rep.


You can run two pumps that are not alike with no issues.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I have a mcp50x and the h220x (which uses the mcp35x) in the same loop for years now with zero issues...I have a 480 monster and a 420 ek le rad and the 220x with two video cards blocked and have never had a flow issue even running the mcp50x solo they are very good pumps


----------



## ciarlatano

mfknjadagr8 said:


> I have a mcp50x and the h220x (which uses the mcp35x) in the same loop for years now with zero issues...I have a 480 monster and a 420 ek le rad and the 220x with two video cards blocked and have never had a flow issue even running the mcp50x solo they are very good pumps


Agreed, they are excellent pumps. But, the H220X uses and MCP30, which is an MCP50X based pump. The MCP35X is a Laing DDC based pump, and is not compatible (in terms of direct replacement) with the MCP50X or MCP30


----------



## mfknjadagr8

ciarlatano said:


> mfknjadagr8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a mcp50x and the h220x (which uses the mcp35x) in the same loop for years now with zero issues...I have a 480 monster and a 420 ek le rad and the 220x with two video cards blocked and have never had a flow issue even running the mcp50x solo they are very good pumps
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, they are excellent pumps. But, the H220X uses and MCP30, which is an MCP50X based pump. The MCP35X is a Laing DDC based pump, and is not compatible (in terms of direct replacement) with the MCP50X or MCP30
Click to expand...

The swiftech rep that sent me an email about six years ago must've accidentally told me the wrong pump then when I asked thanks for the clarification....iirc the max speed of the mcp30 is slightly lower than the mcp50x but has shown zero effects in my loop but I also have a pretty non restrictive loop not sure that that would matter but I've only had two loops so far and both I chose non restrictive blocks and fairly non restrictive rads.....

If I showed pictures of my loop right now youde have me banned from ocn it's way overdue a cleaning...I just dont have the time working 7 days a week and having a 2 year old...


----------



## Wam7

I picked up my H220-X from a Dutch company and at the time I think there was at least another place in the E.U. that sold them. I'm thinking of getting the H360 X3 but it seems like previous issues and increased competition has made them near impossible to find at any outlets. Does anybody know of anywhere this side of the pond that sells them? There used to be a Swiftech rep in here, I don't suppose there still is?


----------



## Veii

Can somebody tell me any ETA for when the H240X are gonna be back in stock
Im looking for an ITX build in a tiny Node S + for a 3900X+Asus Impact
Sadly even performance-pc has them out of stock ~ maybe you guys know another e-tailer ?
Location US, this time

@v1ral the Fractal Design Node S , can fit that 240X for example , the 220X shouldn't be different


----------



## ciarlatano

Veii said:


> Can somebody tell me any ETA for when the H240X are gonna be back in stock


http://site.swiftech.com/support/

Also, PPC shows low stock, not out of stock - https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...te-kits/swiftech-240-drive-x3-aio-h240x3.html


----------



## Veii

ciarlatano said:


> http://site.swiftech.com/support/
> 
> Also, PPC shows low stock, not out of stock - https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...te-kits/swiftech-240-drive-x3-aio-h240x3.html


I've contacted them
Yes it changed now ~ thank you for doublechecking :thumb:
Wouldn't else bother to ask, if anything was in stock 
Close to all copper CLC options where gone, no alphacool LT solo for own CLC designs 
And didn't find any slim formfactor block/pump combos - nor rad-pump combos of the shelf 
~ all where out of stock on 5 etailers so far


----------



## Madmaxneo

It seems my temps are starting to climb up again as the days start to get warmer. Not sure but they seem a bit higher than last year. 
Right now with about 10% cpu usage I am seeing temps in the low to mid 40's, where they used to be in the low 30's. My temps don't usually start creeping up like this until the summer when higher temps in the 80's and 90's hit. Those temps don't seem that bad because I do have my cpu OC'd at 4.2 ghz. 
I replaced my thermal paste like 3 months ago with a system flush and refill because my temps seemed a bit high for the winter. Not sure if I should reapply the paste or look into getting a larger AIO (I use the 240-X with a heatkiller IV pro block on my cpu only) but I do not have the money for one right now. Though it could be my pump is starting to slow down. 

I will run a bench or stress test and report back with the temp results in a few. 

I am looking for suggestions on what I can do to hopefully improve my temps. I prefer the cheapest route possible because I am currently trying to save some money to upgrade my system.

Edit: I ran OCCT for about 20 mins and my CPU temps peaked at 70, and it has never gotten that high before on the same test. It usually goes no higher than about 63.

Edit 2: I ran Time Spy and it acted weird. My cpu never went above 27% usage and my GPU never went over 2% yet the GPU temp ran up to 54 deg. Which is high, but then when I ran Firestrike and the GPU hit 100% but it never went over 42 deg. The GPU is cooled by a H140 with a heatkiller IV pro block.


----------



## mush332

Hey been a while. So I just ordered new cpu and mobo and made the switch to the amd ryzen 9 3900x. I currently run a i7-7700k. My question is can I take my sons spare parts from his after market fan and use it to mount my h240 on my new cpu? Or would I have to buy a new cooler entirely?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I finally broke down and ordered the H360 Drive X3 AIO. It will be a few weeks till I start ordering and putting together my new system but I figured I would test this out on my ageing but OC'd 4930k cpu and see how it does.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Can anyone tell me which port is the inlet or outlet port on the H240-X? I've been searching and can't find anything on this. I know there is a graphic buried somewhere deep in this thread but have been unable to locate it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> Can anyone tell me which port is the inlet or outlet port on the H240-X? I've been searching and can't find anything on this. I know there is a graphic buried somewhere deep in this thread but have been unable to locate it.


Out is on the left in the pic below. The outlet is actually on the pump, while the inlet is on the rad.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> Out is on the left in the pic below. The outlet is actually on the pump, while the inlet is on the rad.


That's what I figured but didn't want to guess. 

If I am putting my GPU and CPU in the same loop should I loop it so the flow goes from the 240-X to the CPU to the GPU then back to the H240, or should it go the other way around I assume to the CPU first but then I thought that the CPU gets hotter than the GPU and I don't want the GPU temps to go up to high, but if I go with the GPU first will whatever minimal heat that puts out increase the temps of the cpu?

I am putting my GPU and CPU in the same loop under my H240-x temporarily. In my old case I had a H140 for my GPU and the 240-x for my CPU. Unfortunately this new case can't fit a 140mm fan, much less a 140mm rad in the back pf the case. I also don't have enough tubing to run it from the front of the case so it has to be mounted in the top. Right now I am running sysprep just through the GPU because I noticed some residue in the GPU waterblock.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> That's what I figured but didn't want to guess.
> 
> If I am putting my GPU and CPU in the same loop should I loop it so the flow goes from the 240-X to the CPU to the GPU then back to the H240, or should it go the other way around I assume to the CPU first but then I thought that the CPU gets hotter than the GPU and I don't want the GPU temps to go up to high, but if I go with the GPU first will whatever minimal heat that puts out increase the temps of the cpu?
> 
> I am putting my GPU and CPU in the same loop under my H240-x temporarily. In my old case I had a H140 for my GPU and the 240-x for my CPU. Unfortunately this new case can't fit a 140mm fan, much less a 140mm rad in the back pf the case. I also don't have enough tubing to run it from the front of the case so it has to be mounted in the top. Right now I am running sysprep just through the GPU because I noticed some residue in the GPU waterblock.


The order won't matter. Liquid temp will only have a 1-2C difference at any points in the loop. Route it however it is easier.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> The order won't matter. Liquid temp will only have a 1-2C difference at any points in the loop. Route it however it is easier.


:specool:


----------



## Madmaxneo

What do you guys recommend if I go to a full custom loop from my old AIO set up?

I've only used the configurable AIOs from Swiftech and had a separate loop for my GPU (H140) and my CPU (H240-X). I had my H140 on the back fan mount and the H240-X in the top. Unfortunately this new case (Lian Li Cool 2) only has mounting option for 120 mm fans in the back of the case, so I had to combine my GPU and CPU into one loop with the H240-X, of which it handles just fine. I need more cooling power (AMD build) and was looking at the H360-X3 for the front of the case but the rad mount in the front will not accept the H360-X3 with the res mounted on the rad, plus you can't mount a 360 rad in the top of the case.

So I am looking to get a 360 rad (maybe fans also) along with the res and pump. I'd prefer it to be as easy to maintain as possible (which is why I had only gone the Swiftech AIOs prior to this) with something like the pump mounted on top of the res or something similar. I have two of the really good Phanteks fans for the rad so I would need to get another one if I stay with them. 

Show me what you all recommend even though I prefer to see stuff that is in stock.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> What do you guys recommend if I go to a full custom loop from my old AIO set up?
> 
> I've only used the configurable AIOs from Swiftech and had a separate loop for my GPU (H140) and my CPU (H240-X). I had my H140 on the back fan mount and the H240-X in the top. Unfortunately this new case (Lian Li Cool 2) only has mounting option for 120 mm fans in the back of the case, so I had to combine my GPU and CPU into one loop with the H240-X, of which it handles just fine. I need more cooling power (AMD build) and was looking at the H360-X3 for the front of the case but the rad mount in the front will not accept the H360-X3 with the res mounted on the rad, plus you can't mount a 360 rad in the top of the case.
> 
> So I am looking to get a 360 rad (maybe fans also) along with the res and pump. I'd prefer it to be as easy to maintain as possible (which is why I had only gone the Swiftech AIOs prior to this) with something like the pump mounted on top of the res or something similar. I have two of the really good Phanteks fans for the rad so I would need to get another one if I stay with them.
> 
> Show me what you all recommend even though I prefer to see stuff that is in stock.


If you don't want to go crazy, why not just add a 240mm or 360mm rad to the existing loop you made with the H240-X? Normally, I would recommend an HWL GTS, but they are very restrictive for a rad and might be a little taxing on the H240-X pump. But an Alphacool ST30 or XSPC EX or TX would do a nice job for you.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> If you don't want to go crazy, why not just add a 240mm or 360mm rad to the existing loop you made with the H240-X? Normally, I would recommend an HWL GTS, but they are very restrictive for a rad and might be a little taxing on the H240-X pump. But an Alphacool ST30 or XSPC EX or TX would do a nice job for you.


One of the things I need is an easy way to drain and fill the loops as needed without having to tilt the case to much. As it is now when it comes time to drain this loop now I will have to lean the whole case on it's side over a bucket or something like it. I'd rather not have to do that every time I have to drain and refill. Once I get this new tubing in along with whatever new rad system I will have to take out my GPU and disassemble the block to clean it real good, after that I am going to run sys prep in the loop of which I will have to drain again then refill after about 24 hrs.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> What do you guys recommend if I go to a full custom loop from my old AIO set up?
> 
> I've only used the configurable AIOs from Swiftech and had a separate loop for my GPU (H140) and my CPU (H240-X). I had my H140 on the back fan mount and the H240-X in the top. Unfortunately this new case (Lian Li Cool 2) only has mounting option for 120 mm fans in the back of the case, so I had to combine my GPU and CPU into one loop with the H240-X, of which it handles just fine. I need more cooling power (AMD build) and was looking at the H360-X3 for the front of the case but the rad mount in the front will not accept the H360-X3 with the res mounted on the rad, plus you can't mount a 360 rad in the top of the case.
> 
> So I am looking to get a 360 rad (maybe fans also) along with the res and pump. I'd prefer it to be as easy to maintain as possible (which is why I had only gone the Swiftech AIOs prior to this) with something like the pump mounted on top of the res or something similar. I have two of the really good Phanteks fans for the rad so I would need to get another one if I stay with them.
> 
> Show me what you all recommend even though I prefer to see stuff that is in stock.


Had this since 2016 , quite happy with it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Had this since 2016 , quite happy with it.


That's nice! How do you drain it?

Unfortunately for me a Swiftech AIO will not fit in the front rad mount due to the way it's designed, the built in res will get in the way. Well there may be a way to get it to fit but the H240-X will not fit with an H360 in the front. So when I am able to figure then get the parts I need I will be removing the H240-X and leave that out.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> That's nice! How do you drain it?
> 
> Unfortunately for me a Swiftech AIO will not fit in the front rad mount due to the way it's designed, the built in res will get in the way. Well there may be a way to get it to fit but the H240-X will not fit with an H360 in the front. So when I am able to figure then get the parts I need I will be removing the H240-X and leave that out.


Flip the case upside down, screw in fitting with a tube at the bottom of GPU, flip it back and open fill port on the H360.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Flip the case upside down, screw in fitting with a tube at the bottom of GPU, flip it back and open fill port on the H360.


Yeah, that seems a bit much. There's got to be an easier way.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah, that seems a bit much. There's got to be an easier way.


I doubt there are many choices when it comes to custom loop draining. I can probably stick a drain valve at the bottom of GPU and keep it there but i dont mind doing it the way i do.


----------



## ntuason

I added a 200mm res with a top fill/bottom drain port which makes it so much easier to fill and drain.


----------



## KillerBee33

ntuason said:


> I added a 200mm res with a top fill/bottom drain port which makes it so much easier to fill and drain.


I honestly don't see how much easier than this it can get...


----------



## Madmaxneo

ntuason said:


> I added a 200mm res with a top fill/bottom drain port which makes it so much easier to fill and drain.


That may be my best option. What rad did you get?


----------



## Trybcio86

I have a question, can you buy a top pump for the swiftech h220x pump? my system is hard to vent.
https://i.imgur.com/cMeGmd5.jpg


----------



## ciarlatano

Trybcio86 said:


> I have a question, can you buy a top pump for the swiftech h220x pump? my system is hard to vent.
> https://i.imgur.com/cMeGmd5.jpg


Not sure what you mean by a "top pump".


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am impressed with Swiftech.

I just came from an i7 4930k on a Rampage IV black ed MB in a Phantom 820 case to a Ryzen 3900x on a Gigabyte Aorus Elite Wifi in a Lian Li LanCool 2 case. I originally had my CPU cooled by a H240-X and a Heatkiller IV pro block and my GPU cooled by a H140 and a Heatkiller IV pro block. When I started this build I had planned on using the same cooling arrangement but I could not fit the H140 as the exhaust fan (the LanCool 2 only fits a 120mm fan in the back of the case), so I combined them into one loop with my H240-x. It did really well as my GPU idle temps only went up maybe 3 degs and the Ryzen chip was apparently running average temps. I still was not satisfied with the Ryzen temps so I ordered another RAD for the loop and the MCP50X pump to replace the MCP30X on my H240-X. After I install everything and get it up and running I noticed my GPU temps have dropped significantly than they were before. Now my idle GPU temps are 27 deg which is lower than it has ever been and my benchmark/stress tests temps do not go above 48 deg so far. My CPU temps have also dropped significantly but it is a bit hard to tell with the temps spikes that are common with Ryzen chips. On average I believe I am seeing about a 10 deg drop in average temps on my CPU with a definite drop of 10 degs on the low temp end of about 35 deg. When benching it hasn't gone above 60 degs so far which is awesome but I need to do a good stress test on it now. 

Note that originally I thought about installing a H360 in the front of this case. I discovered it wouldn't work because although it would fit a 360 deg rad it will not fit the H360 (no matter the version) because of the res being on the rad itself, and there just isn't enough clearance on the rad mount for the rad/fans/res combined.


----------



## Trybcio86

ciarlatano said:


> Not sure what you mean by a "top pump".


top cover


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a slight issue I need help with. As mentioned above I replaced my MCP30X with the MCP50X on my H240-X. Unfortunately the MCP50X does not come with the wire harness for the res LED included on the H240-X. I am thinking I can wire into the wiring harness but I am not entirely sure what the voltage is and which is the positive wire. A swiftech rep said it may be 5v like the Iris ones are but he wasn't entirely sure. 
If it was 12v that would be awesome cause I am wiring in some UV lights right now and I could rewire it into that harness easily, if not then I have to make a different harness for the different power required.


Anyone here ever rewire that light? Either way, anyone know what voltage that light requires and maybe which wire is which on the unit?


----------



## MadGoat

Ha! Bringing back some nostalgia. I'm still rocking my OG H220. It has seen many motherboards and procs in it's life. Now cooling the 5950x with ease.


----------



## 66racer

MadGoat said:


> Ha! Bringing back some nostalgia. I'm still rocking my OG H220. It has seen many motherboards and procs in it's life. Now cooling the 5950x with ease.
> View attachment 2513073


Lucky, I loved my H220 and while it is still working, the liquid metal pro I used fused itself to the 2700k it is attached to. That said, it works and I power the system up a handful of times a year and there is no overheating even with the original 4.8ghz OC on it. That build is basically a time capsule now which is kinda cool I guess.


----------



## MadGoat

66racer said:


> Lucky, I loved my H220 and while it is still working, the liquid metal pro I used fused itself to the 2700k it is attached to. That said, it works and I power the system up a handful of times a year and there is no overheating even with the original 4.8ghz OC on it. That build is basically a time capsule now which is kinda cool I guess.


Haha! I did that once... Think it was a Phenom 2 1100t I believe. I had to work the proc off with a razor blade. Lol! I lapped the CPU and the H220 and they both came out alive 🤣.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MadGoat said:


> Ha! Bringing back some nostalgia. I'm still rocking my OG H220. It has seen many motherboards and procs in it's life. Now cooling the 5950x with ease.


Awesome and very glad to see that an old H220 is still rocking. I am still rocking my H240X that I upgraded the pump to the best it could fit and added a 240mm rad to help cool my 3900X and my old GTX 1070 GPU. It def keeps my GPU frosty with it never going higher than the low 50's (no matter the stress I put on it) but the CPU still hits higher temps than my old socket 4930k did OC'd at 4.4ghz, even though I haven't even tried to OC my 3900X yet....lol. At idle my 3900X hits from about 39 deg C to 48 deg C, where my old 4930K would sit about the mid to low 30 at idle.... They both would hit about the low 60's when benching. 
Note that when I had the H240X on my 4930K it had the original pump and the CPU was the only thing in the loop.


----------



## MadGoat

Madmaxneo said:


> Awesome and very glad to see that an old H220 is still rocking. I am still rocking my H240X that I upgraded the pump to the best it could fit and added a 240mm rad to help cool my 3900X and my old GTX 1070 GPU. It def keeps my GPU frosty with it never going higher than the low 50's (no matter the stress I put on it) but the CPU still hits higher temps than my old socket 4930k did OC'd at 4.4ghz, even though I haven't even tried to OC my 3900X yet....lol. At idle my 3900X hits from about 39 deg C to 48 deg C, where my old 4930K would sit about the mid to low 30 at idle.... They both would hit about the low 60's when benching.
> Note that when I had the H240X on my 4930K it had the original pump and the CPU was the only thing in the loop.


Another still in operation, that's awesome. Yeah, I think it's a mcp50 pump that fits? My impeller magnet split in half a few years back and I replaced the h220's guts with an upgraded pump as well. Added a small res and replaced the hoses. Think I've cleaned the loop maybe thee times? It's a unit of a cooler. Still feel too young to say it, but they don't make 'em like they used to.


----------



## Madmaxneo

MadGoat said:


> Another still in operation, that's awesome. Yeah, I think it's a mcp50 pump that fits? My impeller magnet split in half a few years back and I replaced the h220's guts with an upgraded pump as well. Added a small res and replaced the hoses. Think I've cleaned the loop maybe thee times? It's a unit of a cooler. Still feel too young to say it, but they don't make 'em like they used to.


I have heard the newer units are more efficient and there are less bad units as opposed to when we got ours. I remember a lot of people complaining about leaks and many insisting I do 24hr leaks checks just incase, but I have never run a leak check for more than an hour and I have never had any leaks. I've changed out my loop several times over the years to include different tubing and fluid and everything runs great still to this day. Note that when I switched to the MCP50 (I think you're correct) that I had to void the warranty on the pump but I feel confident I will get my money's worth out of it. 
I have been eyeing the Swiftech D5 Pump and res for an upgrade, but if I do that I will want to go with a couple of 320mm rads and to do that I need a bigger case...lol. The 
Lian Li O11DXL-X O11 Dynamic XL ROG is what I want along with a distro plate (but not the one that only fits a ddc pump)...lol.


----------



## MadGoat

Well I can attest to the longevity. I know the mcp50 pump has been running in mine for over 5 years now, problem free


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I'm still running my h220x as a redundancy pump just in case my mcp50x were to fail both pumping as strong as day one despite my poor loop keeping habits lol

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## diggiddi

MadGoat said:


> Ha! Bringing back some nostalgia. I'm still rocking my OG H220. It has seen many motherboards and procs in it's life. Now cooling the 5950x with ease.
> View attachment 2513073


So I can use my Glacer 240l on my 5900x then


----------



## Madmaxneo

diggiddi said:


> So I can use my Glacer 240l on my 5900x then


I have no idea. Is the Glacer 240l even a Swiftech product?


----------



## diggiddi

Madmaxneo said:


> I have no idea. Is the Glacer 240l even a Swiftech product?


Its a spinoff the Swiftech H220?have look at the Thread title, They have the same mounting brackets


----------



## Madmaxneo

diggiddi said:


> Its a spinoff the Swiftech H220?have look at the Thread title, They have the same mounting brackets


Oh yeah, duh...lol.
How old is the Glacer 240l?


----------



## MadGoat

diggiddi said:


> So I can use my Glacer 240l on my 5900x then


For sure! Working a treat on mine. (Just have to get the AM4 bracket from swiftech if you don't already)


----------



## diggiddi

Madmaxneo said:


> Oh yeah, duh...lol.
> How old is the Glacer 240l?


I think I got mine in 2016


----------



## KillerBee33

Hey. Can anyone help with getting a replacement pump for H360X3?


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Hey. Can anyone help with getting a replacement pump for H360X3?


Have you looked on the Swiftech homepage for replacement parts? They MCP50X is an upgrade to the one in the unit now and it will fit. They have them in stock on Swiftech.


----------



## doyll

What *Madmaxneo* suggested is probably best way to go.


----------



## MadGoat

For sure, the mcp50x is in most cases a decent upgrade for the pump in the h series swiftech aio. I've been running a mcp50x for years now in my hacked up og h220.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> Have you looked on the Swiftech homepage for replacement parts? They MCP50X is an upgrade to the one in the unit now and it will fit. They have them in stock on Swiftech.


Thank you. So, just unscrew this top part and swap it i guess?


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Thank you. So, just unscrew this top part and swap i
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> t i guess?
> View attachment 2523734


Yes, but be very careful when taking it apart. There is a little plastic o ring thing on the inside that has to go around the impeller. 
TBH it may be best to join the Discord and ask Howard on there, he will set you straight.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> Yes, but be very careful when taking it apart. There is a little plastic o ring thing on the inside that has to go around the impeller.
> TBH it may be best to join the Discord and ask Howard on there, he will set you straight.


Thanx.I've swapped 2 of those pumps on my 320X2 but it's been a while since. It's not the rubber ring i worry about, it's the acrylic part cracking on the unit while tightening.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Thanx.I've swapped 2 of those pumps on my 320X2 but it's been a while since. It's not the rubber ring i worry about, it's the acrylic part cracking on the unit while tightening.


Then you should be all set!


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> Then you should be all set!


Yeah, ordered MCP50X and Mayhems Ultra Clear Tube. EK Tube i have now are not as good. Just need to figure out how to deep clean and flush the loop.


----------



## Madmaxneo

KillerBee33 said:


> Yeah, ordered MCP50X and Mayhems Ultra Clear Tube. EK Tube i have now are not as good. Just need to figure out how to deep clean and flush the loop.


I use the Mayhems Mod Water to clean my loop. It does a pretty good job.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> I use the Mayhems Mod Water to clean my loop. It does a pretty good job.


Yeap, was looking into that today. Got any tips on how to use it?


----------



## MadGoat

I have always used white vinegar. Fill up the rad, let it sit for an hour or two, then flush with water and compressed air. Works great to knock the crud out. (Same for water blocks). Have had the same radiators in use for over seven years now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> I use the Mayhems Mod Water to clean my loop. It does a pretty good job.





KillerBee33 said:


> Yeap, was looking into that today. Got any tips on how to use it?


ModWater is sold by ModMyMods and is a coolant, not a cleaner. It uses Mayhems X1 or XT1 Nuke as it's base, I forget which.

Mayhems Blitz products are for cleaning loops.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> ModWater is sold by ModMyMods and is a coolant, not a cleaner. It uses Mayhems X1 or XT1 Nuke as it's base, I forget which.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz products are for cleaning loops.


That's what i need. My loop is weird and i just don't have the energy to strip and wash every part. I want to drain it then use some kind of a cleaner to run through for few hours, use distilled water at the end and be done with


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> I have always used white vinegar. Fill up the rad, let it sit for an hour or two, then flush with water and compressed air. Works great to knock the crud out. (Same for water blocks). Have had the same radiators in use for over seven years now.


I've heard people use Vinegar to clean their loops. Have any specific measurements? Water with vinegar mix, how long to run it and so on? Any help appreciated. I've had bad luck cleaning it last two times since Swiftech decided to use some kind of white mix in H360X3 unlike previous X2 which was clear.


----------



## MadGoat

Honestly, I wouldn't just run it in the loop. The vinegar will knock off chucks of crud that will inevitably lodge themselves in various places. It works in vehicles well because there is enough flow and heat to pulverize the buildup to then be drained and rinsed, not so much with computer loops. 

It will clean and sterilize better than anything else, but I would for sure disassemble the loop to do so. 60psi air really helps to blow the crap out after the vinegar dislodges it though. 

I run only distilled with a silver coil. Longest I've gone on a fill was 3 years. Was still crystal clear. (Blocks and rad had some corrosion however. A tad bit of water wetter could help with that)


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Honestly, I wouldn't just run it in the loop. The vinegar will knock off chucks of crud that will inevitably lodge themselves in various places. It works in vehicles well because there is enough flow and heat to pulverize the buildup to then be drained and rinsed, not so much with computer loops.
> 
> It will clean and sterilize better than anything else, but I would for sure disassemble the loop to do so. 60psi air really helps to blow the crap out after the vinegar dislodges it though.
> 
> I run only distilled with a silver coil. Longest I've gone on a fill was 3 years. Was still crystal clear. (Blocks and rad had some corrosion however. A tad bit of water wetter could help with that)


4.5 YEARS after. Not flushed , just drained. Too bad I can't find this product anywhere for years now... CF No.1 UV PC Coolant Pro Series


----------



## KillerBee33

Also looking into this,








PrimoChill System Reboot - Cooling Loop Treatment


Primochill System Reboot was created to address the need to prepare/clean existing cooling loops AND be able to clean out old dyes that may have leached onto components during previous usage. Similar to Sysprep this flush style solution will cleanse out any debris/residue leaving your water...




www.primochill.com


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Also looking into this,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PrimoChill System Reboot - Cooling Loop Treatment
> 
> 
> Primochill System Reboot was created to address the need to prepare/clean existing cooling loops AND be able to clean out old dyes that may have leached onto components during previous usage. Similar to Sysprep this flush style solution will cleanse out any debris/residue leaving your water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.primochill.com


Just get some Mayhems Blitz Pt 2 and use as directed.


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> 4.5 YEARS after. Not flushed , just drained
> View attachment 2523880


Not bad at all!


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Just get some Mayhems Blitz Pt 2 and use as directed.


Yeah, looked into that but it got me confused with 2 parts. First can only be used to flush the radiators and not sure but is this what you're talking about-->Blitz BASIC Cleaning System (Part 2) - DazMode


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Not bad at all!


Yeah... Got EK's Cryofuel and EK's soft tubing and not quite as happy as i was with Nanoxia+Mayhems Ultra Clear Tube


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Yeah, looked into that but it got me confused with 2 parts. First can only be used to flush the radiators and not sure but is this what you're talking about-->Blitz BASIC Cleaning System (Part 2) - DazMode


That is the one.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> That is the one.


Thank you. Found it on PCS Mayhems Blitz Kit Basic Cleaning System
So just drain then add this mix for 24 hours, drain, flush with distilled water for few hours then fill up with what i want?


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Thank you. Found it on PCS Mayhems Blitz Kit Basic Cleaning System
> So just drain then add this mix for 24 hours, drain, flush with distilled water for few hours then fill up with what i want?


With any cleaner you should flush 2-3 times. Otherwise you are correct.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> With any cleaner you should flush 2-3 times. Otherwise you are correct.


One more thing. I ordered a new pump and I'll be changing every tube from EK to Mayhem. Should I clean and flush the loop with current setup of do it when new tubes are installed? I tried flushing H360X3 twice, when i got it and few months later when i was swapping motherboard. That white crap Swiftech used in it is still there somehow, i can still see residue on the reservoir.


----------



## KillerBee33

Dang. With pump off and few programs running


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> One more thing. I ordered a new pump and I'll be changing every tube from EK to Mayhem. Should I clean and flush the loop with current setup of do it when new tubes are installed? I tried flushing H360X3 twice, when i got it and few months later when i was swapping motherboard. That white crap Swiftech used in it is still there somehow, i can still see residue on the reservoir.


I would do it with the new tubes since they will need to be cleaned anyway.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> I would do it with the new tubes since they will need to be cleaned anyway.


Gotta get me a lot of distilled gallons. Gonna drain it, flush it few times then install new tubes and deep clean it with part 2.Thanx again.👍


----------



## KillerBee33

Ouch. Not to badmouth EK but here it is.
Over 4 years with Nanoxia CF1


----------



## KillerBee33

Little over 1 year with EK CryoFuel


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Little over 1 year with EK CryoFuel
> View attachment 2525099


Cryofuel is terrible stuff. So many reports of issues here and across the web.


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Little over 1 year with EK CryoFuel
> View attachment 2525099


No Bueno! After a year?! Wow. Gimme distilled water and some biocide over that! Have they heard of corrosion inhibiters?


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> No Bueno! After a year?! Wow. Gimme distilled water and some biocide over that! Have they heard of corrosion inhibiters?


Well, what was supposed to be a simple pump swap, turned out to be a full blownclean up


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, what was supposed to be a simple pump swap, turned out to be a full blownclean up


Haha! Isn't that always the case? "Oh this will be simple..." haha, nope! 

Is that green goo corrosion or growth?


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Haha! Isn't that always the case? "Oh this will be simple..." haha, nope!
> 
> Is that green goo corrosion or growth?


Looked like some kind of goo* buildup.


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Looked like some kind of goo* buildup.


Beware of the goo! 

Right on, well I hope you're up and running in no time.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Beware of the goo!
> 
> Right on, well I hope you're up and running in no time.


Scary part coming up...Filling it with Britz and running for a day.


----------



## KillerBee33

KillerBee33 said:


> Scary part coming up...Filling it with Britz and running for a day.


Wow, this Blitz stuff sure is foamy


----------



## KillerBee33

KillerBee33 said:


> Wow, this Blitz stuff sure is foamy


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, what was supposed to be a simple pump swap, turned out to be a full blownclean up





MadGoat said:


> Haha! Isn't that always the case? "Oh this will be simple..." haha, nope!
> 
> Is that green goo corrosion or growth?


Ah, the infamous Cryofuel gunk. @Shawnb99 has some great pics of that.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Ah, the infamous Cryofuel gunk. @Shawnb99 has some great pics of that.


Should i put the 24 pin back and continue using it? Nevermind, just did that. Ciarlatano you said you've used Blitz part 2 right, i had some kind of goo floating at first and i don't see much of it anymore. Is it dissolving somehow?


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Should i put the 24 pin back and continue using it? Nevermind, just did that. Ciarlatano you said you've used Blitz part 2 right, i had some kind of goo floating at first and i don't see much of it anymore. Is it dissolving somehow?


I've never had goo of any kind. It does foam initially, and the foaming dies down.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> I've never had goo of any kind. It does foam initially, and the foaming dies down.


Gotta be honest here but i don't think all the crap i had came from Cryofuel alone. Some of that may have been leftovers from Swiftechs white fluid that came with H360X2. I didn't fully flush the whole thing before refilling it


----------



## KillerBee33

KillerBee33 said:


> Gotta be honest here but i don't think all the crap i had came from Cryofuel alone. Some of that may have been leftovers from Swiftechs white fluid that came with H360X2. I didn't fully flush the whole thing before refilling it


When it started and 3 hours later. I really hope it works as good as it looks


----------



## KillerBee33

Can someone suggest speeds for the MCP50X inside H360X2 CPU+GPU loop?
Had my factory pump running @ around 1800RPM before 50*°, and now MCP50 runs @ 2200RPM on same settings.*


----------



## MadGoat

This is where I have mine setup. it's quiet until it heats up, but the fans are louder at that point than the pump.

Edit: Just realized that it doesn't show temps. That's a steady ramp 40c @ 25% to 80c @ 100%. This channel is running my pwm controller and all my case fans are on the same profile.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> View attachment 2525159
> 
> 
> This is where I have mine setup. it's quiet until it heats up, but the fans are louder at that point than the pump.
> 
> Edit: Just realized that it doesn't show temps. That's a steady ramp 40c @ 25% to 80c @ 100%. This channel is running my pwm controller and all my case fans are on the same profile.


This is where mine was sitting with a factory pump so i left it as is


----------



## KillerBee33

What's weird is my motherboard reports 4700+ RPM @ full speed


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> What's weird is my motherboard reports 4700+ RPM @ full speed
> View attachment 2525184


Yeah, I think between 4700 - 4800 is the max range for the mcp50x. I've had the 50x installed for so long I don't remember the stock pump noise, but I do remember realizing that it was louder. (Also that it flows quite a bit more however).

As for speeds, My proc Idles around 36-40c with minimum flow (PWM limit here of 25%) so I set my curve to begin there. So most of the time the pump is inaudible running around 1200rpm. Furthermore I set the time delay on temp increase to 3 seconds with a ramp speed of 4 seconds so it's not an immediate speed increase. Rig is virtually silent during desktop use but does ramp up under gaming. But I should expect that for a 250w CPU and a 350w GPU. Honestly still a nice humm though.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Yeah, I think between 4700 - 4800 is the max range for the mcp50x. I've had the 50x installed for so long I don't remember the stock pump noise, but I do remember realizing that it was louder. (Also that it flows quite a bit more however).
> 
> As for speeds, My proc Idles around 36-40c with minimum flow (PWM limit here of 25%) so I set my curve to begin there. So most of the time the pump is inaudible running around 1200rpm. Furthermore I set the time delay on temp increase to 3 seconds with a ramp speed of 4 seconds so it's not an immediate speed increase. Rig is virtually silent during desktop use but does ramp up under gaming. But I should expect that for a 250w CPU and a 350w GPU. Honestly still a nice humm though.


LMMO, I'm considering keeping this Blitz mix as my coolant 😅 "idling"


----------



## MadGoat

Nice and chilly!


----------



## KillerBee33

Well, drained it and this is the first D.Water flush. Looks exactly like the Blitz did at first


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, drained it and this is the first D.Water flush. Looks exactly like the Blitz did at first


Are you sure your mix was right and you didn't use too much Blitz?


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Are you sure your mix was right and you didn't use too much Blitz?


25ml over 975ml water. I used the lil cup that came with the kit and made a mix of 10ml over 475ml. If anything i used too little .


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Nice and chilly!


Yeah, i might've got a bad chip. Idling is great but running AIDA64 StressTEst throws it in mid 90's. Playing Borderlands 3 for hours @1440@120 max settings and DX12 my Titan is doing better than great but the 10900k Stock is still dipping into mid 70's


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Yeah, i might've got a bad chip. Idling is great but running AIDA64 StressTEst throws it in mid 90's. Playing Borderlands 3 for hours @1440@120 max settings and DX12 my Titan is doing better than great but the 10900k Stock is still dipping into mid 70's


Well, still better than my 5950x. She likes to hang around 80c on load. 🙄


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Well, still better than my 5950x. She likes to hang around 80c on load. 🙄


At what point it starts throttling? Mine according to AIDA64 @ 95+ which is why i think i got a bad chip.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> ModWater is sold by ModMyMods and is a coolant, not a cleaner. It uses Mayhems X1 or XT1 Nuke as it's base, I forget which.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz products are for cleaning loops.


Oops, sorry about that. Not sure what I was thinking when I posted that...lol. I normally use sysprep to clean my system out and usually run it for a a day.


----------



## KillerBee33

Madmaxneo said:


> Oops, sorry about that. Not sure what I was thinking when I posted that...lol. I normally use sysprep to clean my system out and usually run it for a a day.


Blitz did a good job here. UV Green so bright my phone can't really capture the real color.


----------



## KillerBee33

This is through a tinted glass


----------



## KillerBee33

I know it's unrelated here but did anyone else jump on the 11th* Train today? Was scheduled to be released on the 5th but i got the option today.
10- I scored 26 077 in Fire Strike
11- I scored 25 950 in Fire Strike


----------



## MadGoat

Been running dev for awhile. Performance seems to be a bit better in dev than beta.


----------



## KillerBee33

I had it for about 3 months in dual boot just to see the progress but today Upgrade showed up in 10 update. It does feel smoother atleast playing Borderlands 3. But I can't wait till we get some tools to remove some of the crap like Teams and Widgets.
PS. If anyone interested turning Widgets off...


----------



## KillerBee33

Can someone suggest a better chassis plz. I've tried everything with this 7YO H440 but i think it's time, this is the only way to keep things reasonably cool.









I got a way to get Phanteks Evolve X Silver for under 100$ but I'm not sure it'll be much of a difference.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Can someone suggest a better chassis plz. I've tried everything with this 7YO H440 but i think it's time, this is the only way to keep things reasonably cool.
> 
> 
> I got a way to get Phanteks Evolve X Silver for under 100$ but I'm not sure it'll be much of a difference.


The Evolv X is worlds better than the H440 in terms of airflow....and everything else, really. For under $100, go for it.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> The Evolv X is worlds better than the H440 in terms of airflow....and everything else, really. For under $100, go for it.


Yeah, I've been looking into that case for a while. But honestly right now I'm drooling over Enthoo 719 it's just a bit pricey with extra accessories I'll have to get with it.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> The Evolv X is worlds better than the H440 in terms of airflow....and everything else, really. For under $100, go for it.


So the guy still has it, hopefully I'll manage to drive to Jersey next week or so. I need an opinion on something as well, you think i should keep the current position of things or try Swiftech on top as exhaust with "pull" and add a 360 for the front as intake in the "new" Evolve X?
Current Setup in H440:


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> So the guy still has it, hopefully I'll manage to drive to Jersey next week or so. I need an opinion on something as well, you think i should keep the current position of things or try Swiftech on top as exhaust with "pull" and add a 360 for the front as intake in the "new" Evolve X?
> Current Setup in H440:
> View attachment 2526664


Honestly, I like the way you have it setup now. I couldn't think of anything I'd do different with the loop myself. Fan wise, I've always used pull and push/pull when I can. (Quieter and lower rpms)

Added: If I were to add a new case to the thinking however, I'd probably be looking for something that I could mount the 240 on the bottom and pull fresh air with instead.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Honestly, I like the way you have it setup now. I couldn't think of anything I'd do different with the loop myself. Fan wise, I've always used pull and push/pull when I can. (Quieter and lower rpms)


Well, the Swiftech unit can only do push or pull, i can "craft" something up  to have at least 2 more fans to have 2 push-3 pull but that might be pointless. The only other thing i can do is get a 360-30 or 40mm radiator and have it in front or up top. As far as i remember adding a 240 rad on top "what i have now" did not change a thing 😅


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> So the guy still has it, hopefully I'll manage to drive to Jersey next week or so. I need an opinion on something as well, you think i should keep the current position of things or try Swiftech on top as exhaust with "pull" and add a 360 for the front as intake in the "new" Evolve X?
> Current Setup in H440:


I agree with @MadGoat , that looks like the optimal setup. BUT, I would try the top rad as intake and exhaust to see if you get some gains one way or the other.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> I agree with @MadGoat , that looks like the optimal setup. BUT, I would try the top rad as intake and exhaust to see if you get some gains one way or the other.


Trying that may be possible but a top "lets say 360" as intake what should the Swiftech in the front run as?
...If both 360's are intakes then i only have a single 140 as exhaus at the back*...


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Trying that may be possible but a top "lets say 360" as intake what should the Swiftech in the front run as?
> ...If both 360's are intakes then i only have a single 140 as exhaus at the back*...


The top and front as intakes would be find with the single 140 exhaust in the Evolv X. Plenty of open mesh in the back to help exhaust. but, as I said, trying it both ways is the only way to really know which would be more beneficial. Also, the Evolv series really like their open spaces blocked up, like the open area you will have in the top mount with a 240mm up there. There is quite a bit about it in the Phanteks case club thread. It made a huge difference in mine.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> The top and front as intakes would be find with the single 140 exhaust in the Evolv X. Plenty of open mesh in the back to help exhaust. but, as I said, trying it both ways is the only way to really know which would be more beneficial. Also, the Evolv series really like their open spaces blocked up, like the open area you will have in the top mount with a 240mm up there. There is quite a bit about it in the Phanteks case club thread. It made a huge difference in mine.


Is that what you have now, Evolve X?


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> Honestly, I like the way you have it setup now. I couldn't think of anything I'd do different with the loop myself. Fan wise, I've always used pull and push/pull when I can. (Quieter and lower rpms)
> 
> Added: If I were to add a new case to the thinking however, I'd probably be looking for something that I could mount the 240 on the bottom and pull fresh air with instead.


The "new" case I'm thinking of is a Phanteks Evolve X which has similar layout of mine and by the looks of it i might not even fit the 360 on top with Swiftech in the front so the whole setup may be staying as is. That's where my dilemma is, it's only 100$ but is it worth the time


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> The "new" case I'm thinking of is a Phanteks Evolve X which has similar layout of mine and by the looks of it i might not even fit the 360 on top with Swiftech in the front so the whole setup may be staying as is. That's where my dilemma is, it's only 100$ but is it worth the time


how about going with something like this?:








Amazon.com: Phanteks (PH-ES620PTG-DBK01) Enthoo Pro 2 Full Tower – High-Performance Fabric mesh, Tempered Glass, Dual System/PSU Support, Massive Storage, Digital-RGB Lighting, Black : Everything Else


Amazon.com: Phanteks (PH-ES620PTG-DBK01) Enthoo Pro 2 Full Tower – High-Performance Fabric mesh, Tempered Glass, Dual System/PSU Support, Massive Storage, Digital-RGB Lighting, Black : Everything Else



www.amazon.com





240 intake on bottom, 360 intake in front, exhaust top and back...

I know how hard it is to case shop, I just cant give up my RV02.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> how about going with something like this?:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Phanteks (PH-ES620PTG-DBK01) Enthoo Pro 2 Full Tower – High-Performance Fabric mesh, Tempered Glass, Dual System/PSU Support, Massive Storage, Digital-RGB Lighting, Black : Everything Else
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Phanteks (PH-ES620PTG-DBK01) Enthoo Pro 2 Full Tower – High-Performance Fabric mesh, Tempered Glass, Dual System/PSU Support, Massive Storage, Digital-RGB Lighting, Black : Everything Else
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240 intake on bottom, 360 intake in front, exhaust top and back...
> 
> I know how hard it is to case shop, I just cant give up my RV02.
> View attachment 2526679


Yeah, Enthoo Pro is cool but my choice would still be Enthoo719. The issue is the cost. 200+ case plus atleast another 360 rad atleast 100 and more fans. Just not in my budget right now.


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Yeah, Enthoo Pro is cool but my choice would still be Enthoo719. The issue is the cost. 200+ case plus atleast another 360 rad atleast 100 and more fans. Just not in my budget right now.


I gotcha. Yeah, hard to justify a side grade sometimes.


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> I gotcha. Yeah, hard to justify a side grade sometimes.


Exactly. If I were to get the Enthoo719 I want two extra 360s, twisted hardline and a bunch of other crap with it. Knowing myself I won't just stop with getting that case.


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Exactly. If I were to get the Enthoo719 I want two extra 360s, twisted hardline and a bunch of other crap with it. Knowing myself I won't just stop with getting that case.



I (and I'm sure most) can completely relate!


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> The top and front as intakes would be find with the single 140 exhaust in the Evolv X. Plenty of open mesh in the back to help exhaust. but, as I said, trying it both ways is the only way to really know which would be more beneficial. Also, the Evolv series really like their open spaces blocked up, like the open area you will have in the top mount with a 240mm up there. There is quite a bit about it in the Phanteks case club thread. It made a huge difference in mine.


There's not much there about Evolve X or I'm missing something. Is this it?








[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners


Case Owner's Club █████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████ Phanteks Replacement Case Fan Specifications █████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████ Phanteks Eclipse P400 and P400S




www.overclock.net


----------



## ciarlatano

MadGoat said:


> I gotcha. Yeah, hard to justify a side grade sometimes.


Are you inferring H440 to Evolv X is a sidegrade? Because that is certainly not the case.



KillerBee33 said:


> There's not much there about Evolve X or I'm missing something. Is this it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners
> 
> 
> Case Owner's Club █████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████ Phanteks Replacement Case Fan Specifications █████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████████ Phanteks Eclipse P400 and P400S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


I will see if I can find it. I know that @doyll actually has some graphics showing what to do.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Are you inferring H440 to Evolv X is a sidegrade? Because that is certainly not the case.


More like, "getting a new case is not the end of draining your savings" At least in Evolve X the possibilities are limited compared to Enthoo719
PS: I looked into Evolve X and stuffing a 360 on top of Swiftech is possible but draining and filling "as hard as it is now" will be close to impossible.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> More like, "getting a new case is not the end of draining your savings" At least in Evolve X the possibilities are limited compared to Enthoo719


It's liquid cooling, there is never an end to draining our savings.  

My only point was that the Evolv X is a huge step up from the H440, not a mere sidegrade. For under $100, it's a good investment, IMO. The 719 or Pro2 definitely offer more options, but also would cost you a lot more.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> It's liquid cooling, there is never an end to draining our savings.
> 
> My only point was that the Evolv X is a huge step up from the H440, not a mere sidegrade. For under $100, it's a good investment, IMO. The 719 or Pro2 definitely offer more options, but also would cost you a lot more.


Hehe, that's exactly what we were talking about. But even with Evolve X it's not gonna end with $100. I can already see what I'll be doing to it, like vertical gpu kit, most likely painting the front and top panels and at some point making a much bigger opening on top for better airflow.
I can probably reuse my H440 2.5 ssd brackets in Evolve.


----------



## spin5000

I'm still rocking the original Swiftech H320 - the updated/revised model (noticeable by the extra cable on the pump) - in push/pull. Will there be any update so I can use it with Alder Lake / LGA1700?


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> It's liquid cooling, there is never an end to draining our savings.
> 
> My only point was that the Evolv X is a huge step up from the H440, not a mere sidegrade. For under $100, it's a good investment, IMO. The 719 or Pro2 definitely offer more options, but also would cost you a lot more.


Well, finally got a friend to drive my behind to NJ but I'll have to at least pay toll for Verrazano and Gothals bridge so it'll cost me around 150$ for the Evolve X. Not sure if it's worth to get it or add another 70$ and get the Enthoo 719. Also, just got a Phanteks C350i block, let's see if that fixes my CPU temperatures.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, finally got a friend to drive my behind to NJ but I'll have to at least pay toll for Verrazano and Gothals bridge so it'll cost me around 150$ for the Evolve X. Not sure if it's worth to get it or add another 70$ and get the Enthoo 719. Also, just got a Phanteks C350i block, let's see if that fixes my CPU temperatures.


Yeah, that added cash makes it less attractive. What about a Pro 2?

Also interested to see the change with the new block. I've used several Phanteks GPU blocks, but haven't used the CPU block yet.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Yeah, that added cash makes it less attractive. What about a Pro 2?
> 
> Also interested to see the change with the new block. I've used several Phanteks GPU blocks, but haven't used the CPU block yet.


I just like the 719 design and i really hate the front Mesh on any case
I honestly held on to H440 Razer for it's looks this whole time


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Also interested to see the change with the new block. I've used several Phanteks GPU blocks, but haven't used the CPU block yet.


Well, it sure looks pretty but I'm not seeing much of a difference. Will do more tests but so far it's about 4-5 degree difference.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Well, it sure looks pretty but I'm not seeing much of a difference. Will do more tests but so far it's about 4-5 degree difference.


4-5 degrees is rather significant in the measurement of CPU blocks. Glad things are improving.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> 4-5 degrees is rather significant in the measurement of CPU blocks. Glad things are improving.


Not sure if it's something I'm doing wrong or this chip really is bad. Flow is very good, pump can run up to 4700RPM, even the GPU runs relatively cool


----------



## KillerBee33

Humm, i might see the difference here. Just ran CB-R20 with an OC i was not able to run before 51/48 ring, 1325V, IO1.1V-SA1.05V-LLC-6, [email protected] 1.45V







Found a small issue, not sure how much of performance i'm loosing but unless i drain everything again and flip the block there isn't anything else i can do.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> 4-5 degrees is rather significant in the measurement of CPU blocks. Glad things are improving.


What do you think:? Evolvex+Black Ice 360Slim+PH-CBR-PR22+Arctic BioniX P120ARGB+Kryonat Extreme (Delivered Total; $350)
Silly question, is there a benefit of having 360 30 or 40mm on top as exhaust with only 2 fans in push?


----------



## KillerBee33

Got one.Dang!!! The quality of this thing is absolutely amazing


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Got one.Dang!!! The quality of this thing is absolutely amazing
> View attachment 2531034


So, it finally happened. Glad that worked out and that you are impressed. I did tell you it was a big step up from the H440.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> So, it finally happened. Glad that worked out and that you are impressed. I did tell you it was a big step up from the H440.


Yeah, i did get it for under 100$ with tax and shipping came out even $130 but it's worth it. I'm seriously happy with this thing. Got a bunch of crap coming tomorrow too and had an unexpected purchase today













The "benefit" of soft tubing 😅


----------



## KillerBee33

Most things are moved in, just waiting for Alphacool Block and the work will continue.

I was worried the HL 360GTS wont fit on top with those 30MM fans but it looks like it wont be an issue at all.


----------



## KillerBee33

Almost had a heart attack today. Reset MSI Bios and the pump stopped working, unplugged/plugged power/mb hub and nothing. Tapped on the pump and it powered on


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So thinking of grabbing a H240X3 to stick on my GPU, gonna be pricey because I have to buy it direct from Swiftech and ship it to Aus but I'll do it if it works well.

Few questions:

Any issues with leaks and or failed pumps?
Are the fittings on the res / pump standard G1/4"? The specs say so but every review hasn't said anything.
The big one, how hard is it to refill, bleed etc?

I have already got a Barrow DARIDP-30 which does a good job and is surprisingly well built and it's keeping my 6900XT cool but the thing is a sod to bleed (pump res block is badly designed) if it isn't completely full and a small amount of air is left (obviously one want's to leave a small air amount for thermal expansion) it gets stuck in the pump and drives you nutty if it's in a vertical set up (ask me how I know). I'm going to keep the Barrow one and swap it to a CPU cooler because any air left in it doesn't seem to get stuck when mounted horizontal so it's quite.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> So thinking of grabbing a H240X3 to stick on my GPU, gonna be pricey because I have to buy it direct from Swiftech and ship it to Aus but I'll do it if it works well.
> 
> Few questions:
> 
> Any issues with leaks and or failed pumps?
> Are the fittings on the res / pump standard G1/4"? The specs say so but every review hasn't said anything.
> The big one, how hard is it to refill, bleed etc?
> 
> I have already got a Barrow DARIDP-30 which does a good job and is surprisingly well built and it's keeping my 6900XT cool but the thing is a sod to bleed (pump res block is badly designed) if it isn't completely full and a small amount of air is left (obviously one want's to leave a small air amount for thermal expansion) it gets stuck in the pump and drives you nutty if it's in a vertical set up (ask me how I know). I'm going to keep the Barrow one and swap it to a CPU cooler because any air left in it doesn't seem to get stuck when mounted horizontal so it's quite.


Have my 360X3 running a CPU-GPU loop since 2016 (had the 320X2 for the first 4 years) it's not a 6900XT but a hot card nonetheless, TitanXP. Keeps them both relatively cool. Maintenance is a bit tricky but over the years I've managed, lots of case tilting involved. Fittings I'm using are 1/4 3/8 5/8 with Mayhems Ultra Clear. Tried EKs clear tubing but that did not work out well.
Edit: If it's only for GPU then it will be much easier to drain if you're willing to take both out of the case. Filling it is an easy part ...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Cool thanks.

Yeah it'll only be a GPU loop, done the whole custom loop thing and while it worked and looked good filling and draining was more of hassle than I was willing to put up with so custom AIO's is what I'm going for now, makes life much easier.


----------



## KillerBee33

Anyone knows where i can custom order acrylic logos? I'd like to cover the pump with a Swiftech logo


----------



## MadGoat

KillerBee33 said:


> Anyone knows where i can custom order acrylic logos? I'd like to cover the pump with a Swiftech logo
> View attachment 2531884


I've thought about doing this many times myself. If you figure something, let us know! (Maybe 3d print something?)


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> I've thought about doing this many times myself. If you figure something, let us know! (Maybe 3d print something?)


Apparently my brother got a 3d printer but he only has black plastic and needs a 3d model -FILE i guess. I really wanted a UV reactive just like my Nvidia fan grill but i guess black would do fine, i may have some UV Green paint somewhere








Found few sites, upload your design in proper (.OBJ) and they'll make it for you, not expensive


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Finally got my H240 X3 yesterday. Shipping was slow and US / Aus customs had a poke around. Arrived fine at least.

I can see cleaning will be a bit of a pain, the white dye crap is gunked up. I've got the Mayhems cleaning kit so I'll be using that. Just waiting on fittings now before I start cleaning, ripping apart and attaching it to my GPU block.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Finally got my H240 X3 yesterday. Shipping was slow and US / Aus customs had a poke around. Arrived fine at least.
> 
> I can see cleaning will be a bit of a pain, the white dye crap is gunked up. I've got the Mayhems cleaning kit so I'll be using that. Just waiting on fittings now before I start cleaning, ripping apart and attaching it to my GPU block.


Use PART II. Make sure you flush it good, that White mix they got in it is a disaster.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

KillerBee33 said:


> Use PART II. Make sure you flush it good, that White mix they got in it is a disaster.


Tbh it looks like off milk  lol. Also smells kinda like acrylic paint which is really weird.

Yeah I'll use part 2. I did talk to Mayhems before I bought the kit and they said both parts could be used with my current radiator which has an integrated pump with no issue as long as it's just the rad, not tubes. Figured the same is true with this.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got around to draining this thing today. Took about 4 flushes before I felt it was clean enough to do the Blitz kit part 2 on it, didn't make it up as strong as I probably should've but it'll do. Did 300ml water and 6ml cleaner. That damn dye though. I'll say it's good if you want white but a pain in the ass to clean and it really does smell like acrylic paint.

Still have yet to pull fittings and things off and play around but I'll do that once it's all cleaned and PH neutral. So far though I'm liking it, filling is quick and easy, bleeding could be a bit of a hassle but we'll see when I've got straight water in it.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Got around to draining this thing today. Took about 4 flushes before I felt it was clean enough to do the Blitz kit part 2 on it, didn't make it up as strong as I probably should've but it'll do. Did 300ml water and 6ml cleaner. That damn dye though. I'll say it's good if you want white but a pain in the ass to clean and it really does smell like acrylic paint.
> 
> Still have yet to pull fittings and things off and play around but I'll do that once it's all cleaned and PH neutral. So far though I'm liking it, filling is quick and easy, bleeding could be a bit of a hassle but we'll see when I've got straight water in it.


Uhumm...told ya, if you willing to take both GPU and the KIT out, draining will be simple. But if you do this like me...well, imagine bending and flipping this for about an hour.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

KillerBee33 said:


> Uhumm...told ya, if you willing to take both GPU and the KIT out the, draining will be simple. But if you do this like me...well, imagine bending and flipping this for about an hour.


Yeah I'm doing it as an AIO so I don't have to lift and shake the whole case. Been there, done that, it ain't fun lol.

Thought I had the loop clean because it looked clear but the PH wasn't neutral. I removed the CPU block (thanks Swiftech for stripping a hose clamp screw completely btw), put my fittings on and did a small tube loop though the rad to test for leaks and so I use less water getting getting the cleaning stuff out and a neutral PH. Filled it and there's still so much dye in there so I guess another run of the Mayhems cleaning stuff again .


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Yeah I'm doing it as an AIO so I don't have to lift and shake the whole case. Been there, done that, it ain't fun lol.
> 
> Thought I had the loop clean because it looked clear but the PH wasn't neutral. I removed the CPU block (thanks Swiftech for stripping a hose clamp screw completely btw), put my fittings on and did a small tube loop though the rad to test for leaks and so I use less water getting getting the cleaning stuff out and a neutral PH. Filled it and there's still so much dye in there so I guess another run of the Mayhems cleaning stuff again .


I used Part 2 for about 30 hours until it was as clear as water with not even micro bubbles, then distilled water for about 12 hours.
Left is the beginning-Right is 30 hours in. Both Part 2


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

KillerBee33 said:


> I used Part 2 for about 30 hours until it was as clear as water with not even micro bubbles, then distilled water for about 12 hours.


I did part 2 for 24h then a few quick flushes, running the pump for 5 - 10 mins between them. Seems to work fine normally but I've never used dyes before. Used a pretty dilute mix the first time and this time I filled the rad with water but only put in 1ml of part 2, might add another 1 - 1.5ml. I'm cautious of adding to much lol.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> I did part 2 for 24h then a few quick flushes, running the pump for 5 - 10 mins between them. Seems to work fine normally but I've never used dyes before. Used a pretty dilute mix the first time and this time I filled the rad with water but only put in 1ml of part 2, might add another 1 - 1.5ml. I'm cautious of adding to much lol.


Good luck.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Finally got around to installing this today. Still had some issues filling it but got there in the end, probably could do with a touch more water but I'm not to worried.

I do have a question, can the pump be dropped to 2500RPM through PWM without much of an issue? Noticing the hum from it at 3000RPM, it's not to bad, but I'd rather shut it up if I can, I like a quiet rig.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Finally got around to installing this today. Still had some issues filling it but got there in the end, probably could do with a touch more water but I'm not to worried.
> 
> I do have a question, can the pump be dropped to 2500RPM through PWM without much of an issue? Noticing the hum from it at 3000RPM, it's not to bad, but I'd rather shut it up if I can, I like a quiet rig.


Alphacool block. What GPU? Got mine for Gigabyte 3080ti GOC but still thinking of selling it all or keeping it.
About the pump...I run mine @ 15000+RPM in idle. Keep in mind this is a 360 and CPU only for now.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

KillerBee33 said:


> Alphacool block. What GPU? Got mine for Gigabyte 3080ti GOC but still thinking of selling it all or keeping it.
> About the pump...I run mine @ 15000+RPM in idle. Keep in mind this is a 360 and CPU only for now.
> View attachment 2543783


Reference 6900XT, was a toss up between Alphacool and Bykski. Alphacool won because of the included backplate that actually contacts the card.

Ah cool thanks. I'll probably drop it to 2500RPM and leave it, my rooms hot so static speed is better.


----------



## KillerBee33

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Reference 6900XT, was a toss up between Alphacool and Bykski. Alphacool won because of the included backplate that actually contacts the card.
> 
> Ah cool thanks. I'll probably drop it to 2500RPM and leave it, my rooms hot so static speed is better.


Hey. Did you switch the fittings on the unit, IN and OUT?>


----------



## KillerBee33

All these run of a Swiftech H360X3 🤘


----------



## KillerBee33

MadGoat said:


> I've thought about doing this many times myself. If you figure something, let us know! (Maybe 3d print something?)


Got one from ETSY. UV Green. Shinobi3Dp | Etsy


----------



## spin5000

Are there any people here still running the original H220 / H320? My Swiftech H320 is still working absolutely perfectly. I purchased it I think between 2012 and 2014. I had a kind of common issue with the pump on the original unit but then Swiftech replaced the AIO with an updated revision of the H320 which, I believe, came with an improved pump. If I remember correctly, you could tell the revised version apart from the original due to a thin, short cable coming out of the new revision's water block / pump that didn't exist on the original's.

Shortly after receiving the new revision under warranty replacement, I thought I had another pump issue, this time with that of the new revision's. Swiftech then sent me a replacement pump with instructions on how to replace it along with a tiny bottle of clear liquid to mix in. It turns out that there actually was no issue and I'm still rocking that original (revised unit's) pump 8-10 years later without an issue!

This is a PC I use often for gaming and often leave on 24/7 with the pump running 1200 RPM at idle. It also works fairly hard because the pump and fans (6 of the stock Swiftech Helix fans in push/pull) have an aggressive CPU temp curve so they're often running at 100% - 3000 RPM for the pump, 1800 RPM for the fans - during loads. The loads are fairly heavy due to overclocked & hot CPUs like the 11900KF, 10900K, 9700KF, 6850K, 5930K, 4930K. On top of all that, I also got forgetful about changing the water out and it's been more than 3 years now since my last empty/fill job, maybe even more than 5 years. The unit seems to be working as good as new - literally - after 8-10 years and even with that in mind, I still have a brand new pump for when/if the current one eventually goes.

Is this AIO going to last me 15+ years? Is this common or a "freak" unit in terms of it's reliability & longevity?


----------



## MadGoat

spin5000 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Are there any people here still running the original H220 / H320? My Swiftech H320 is still working absolutely perfectly. I purchased it I think between 2012 and 2014. I had a kind of common issue with the pump on the original unit but then Swiftech replaced the AIO with an updated revision of the H320 which, I believe, came with an improved pump. If I remember correctly, you could tell the revised version apart from the original due to a thin, short cable coming out of the new revision's water block / pump that didn't exist on the original's.
> 
> Shortly after receiving the new revision under warranty replacement, I thought I had another pump issue, this time with that of the new revision's. Swiftech then sent me a replacement pump with instructions on how to replace it along with a tiny bottle of clear liquid to mix in. It turns out that there actually was no issue and I'm still rocking that original (revised unit's) pump 8-10 years later without an issue!
> 
> This is a PC I use often for gaming and often leave on 24/7 with the pump running 1200 RPM at idle. It also works fairly hard because the pump and fans (6 of the stock Swiftech Helix fans in push/pull) have an aggressive CPU temp curve so they're often running at 100% - 3000 RPM for the pump, 1800 RPM for the fans - during loads. The loads are fairly heavy due to overclocked & hot CPUs like the 11900KF, 10900K, 9700KF, 6850K, 5930K, 4930K. On top of all that, I also got forgetful about changing the water out and it's been more than 3 years now since my last empty/fill job, maybe even more than 5 years. The unit seems to be working as good as new - literally - after 8-10 years and even with that in mind, I still have a brand new pump for when/if the current one eventually goes.
> 
> Is this AIO going to last me 15+ years? Is this common or a "freak" unit in terms of it's reliability & longevity?


Not a freak unit. Once they ironed out the bugs these units are rock solid, as well as the X2's. (even after AseTek patent trolled them) I'm still running my OG H220. It's pretty much a custom loop now but the pump / coldplate and radiator are still going strong. (Fans are long gone however) If your pump ever lets the smoke out, grab an mcp50x and keep'er movin'.


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> Are there any people here still running the original H220 / H320? My Swiftech H320 is still working absolutely perfectly. I purchased it I think between 2012 and 2014. I had a kind of common issue with the pump on the original unit but then Swiftech replaced the AIO with an updated revision of the H320 which, I believe, came with an improved pump. If I remember correctly, you could tell the revised version apart from the original due to a thin, short cable coming out of the new revision's water block / pump that didn't exist on the original's.
> 
> Shortly after receiving the new revision under warranty replacement, I thought I had another pump issue, this time with that of the new revision's. Swiftech then sent me a replacement pump with instructions on how to replace it along with a tiny bottle of clear liquid to mix in. It turns out that there actually was no issue and I'm still rocking that original (revised unit's) pump 8-10 years later without an issue!
> 
> This is a PC I use often for gaming and often leave on 24/7 with the pump running 1200 RPM at idle. It also works fairly hard because the pump and fans (6 of the stock Swiftech Helix fans in push/pull) have an aggressive CPU temp curve so they're often running at 100% - 3000 RPM for the pump, 1800 RPM for the fans - during loads. The loads are fairly heavy due to overclocked & hot CPUs like the 11900KF, 10900K, 9700KF, 6850K, 5930K, 4930K. On top of all that, I also got forgetful about changing the water out and it's been more than 3 years now since my last empty/fill job, maybe even more than 5 years. The unit seems to be working as good as new - literally - after 8-10 years and even with that in mind, I still have a brand new pump for when/if the current one eventually goes.
> 
> Is this AIO going to last me 15+ years? Is this common or a "freak" unit in terms of it's reliability & longevity?


Not a freak. As @MadGoat said, many are still going strong without an issue following the fix. The replacement unit I got was passed to a friend and is still going strong to this day with yearly liquid changes.



MadGoat said:


> Not a freak unit. Once they ironed out the bugs these units are rock solid, as well as the X2's. (even after AseTek patent trolled them) I'm still running my OG H220. It's pretty much a custom loop now but the pump / coldplate and radiator are still going strong. (Fans are long gone however) If your pump ever lets the smoke out, grab an mcp50x and keep'er movin'.


The patent troll was incredibly ironic given that Swiftech had the Apogee Drive out first but never patented the "concept".


----------



## spin5000

Does anyone have any advice on maintenance of an original style Swiftech H320 AIO? We're supposed to empty and re-fill these every few years, correct?

I received a little bottle (probably 50 - 100mL or so) of clear coolant from Swiftech like 6 or 7 years ago when they sent me a replacement pump to install. I never ended up needing to install it. They said to mix the clear coolant with half a gallon of distilled water. Should I open the fill-port and just empty the AIO and refill with the distilled water + coolant or just distilled water?

Also, when I was having issues with some pump noise many years ago. It was suspected air. I was told directly by Bryan at Swiftech to add 2 - 3 drops of dish soap. Bryan explained the following:
"The soap helps lower the surface tension and acts as a surfactant so it makes it harder for bubbles to form. This won’t have any adverse effects on the performance of this kit either. This is an old water cooling trick that has worked quite well at removing the air from these pumps and getting them to quiet down."

So, do I add all 3? 0.5 gallons of distilled water, the tiny bottle of clear stuff, and the when it's all in the AIO, add 2-3 drops of dish soap?


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> Does anyone have any advice on maintenance of an original style Swiftech H320 AIO? We're supposed to empty and re-fill these every few years, correct?
> 
> I received a little bottle (probably 50 - 100mL or so) of clear coolant from Swiftech like 6 or 7 years ago when they sent me a replacement pump to install. I never ended up needing to install it. They said to mix the clear coolant with half a gallon of distilled water. Should I open the fill-port and just empty the AIO and refill with the distilled water + coolant or just distilled water?
> 
> Also, when I was having issues with some pump noise many years ago. It was suspected air. I was told directly by Bryan at Swiftech to add 2 - 3 drops of dish soap. Bryan explained the following:
> "The soap helps lower the surface tension and acts as a surfactant so it makes it harder for bubbles to form. This won’t have any adverse effects on the performance of this kit either. This is an old water cooling trick that has worked quite well at removing the air from these pumps and getting them to quiet down."
> 
> So, do I add all 3? 0.5 gallons of distilled water, the tiny bottle of clear stuff, and the when it's all in the AIO, add 2-3 drops of dish soap?


I use Mayhems Blitz Part2 to flush mine and ModWater refill.
I also take the block apart and clean it in the sink same with the radiator.
And change the tubes. Get Mayhems ultra clear from Swiftech, they are still dirt cheap and best quality I've tried so far.
1- Mayhems Blitz Basic | Part 2 (MBKS)
2- ModMyMods.com
3- Ultra Clear Tubing by Mayhems - Rouchon Industries Inc., dba Swiftech - PC Liquid Cooling Systems CPU Cooler VGA Water Block Heatsink Pump Radiator Heat Exchanger Kit


----------



## spin5000

The Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 is always 2-5 degrees hotter than the original Swiftech H320 - depending on which CPU core.

I tested both AIOs in a top-exhaust setup with 6x Arctic P12 fans in push/pull as well as 3x Phanteks T30 in pull. I tested at 1000, 1400, 1800 RPM plus 2400 and 3000 for the Phanteks fans. The Swiftech is always cooler - beyond margin of error - than the Arctic on all 8 cores. The first time I mounted the Arctic, it was 4- 9 degrees hotter than the Swiftech. I then re-pasted and re-mounted and got the original improvements I listed which still lag behind the Swiftech.

I thought the Arctic being 8 or so years newer + 16 FPI instead of 13 + 38 mm thick instead of 28 would easily beat the Swiftech - not just at least tie the Swiftech but actually beat it; boy was I wrong. I never thought the Swiftch's pump + copper rad would _even more_ than make up for the Arctic's denser + thicker rad. Either that or the Swiftech's cold plate is way better or I just suck at mounting the Arctic. Either way, I'm very shocked.

Lesson of the day. The only AIOs I'll consider from now on are ones with "proper" pumps - let's say minimum of 200 L/hr (0.88 gal/min) or 300 L/hr (1.32 gal/min) or something around there - and copper rads. I don't care what the reviews say, I don't care what the "TechTubers" say. There's no way the Swiftech falls behind so many AIOs in other reviews. Even Gamers Nexus, which I trust and like a lot, has the Swiftech behind the Arcitc and the EK AIOs (and probably others).



KillerBee33 said:


> I use Mayhems Blitz Part2 to flush mine and ModWater refill.
> I also take the block apart and clean it in the sink same with the radiator.
> And change the tubes. Get Mayhems ultra clear from Swiftech, they are still dirt cheap and best quality I've tried so far.
> 1- Mayhems Blitz Basic | Part 2 (MBKS)
> 2- ModMyMods.com
> 3- Ultra Clear Tubing by Mayhems - Rouchon Industries Inc., dba Swiftech - PC Liquid Cooling Systems CPU Cooler VGA Water Block Heatsink Pump Radiator Heat Exchanger Kit


I forgot to thank you for this info. Thanks!


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> The Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 is always 2-5 degrees hotter than the original Swiftech H320 - depending on which CPU core.
> 
> I tested both AIOs in a top-exhaust setup with 6x Arctic P12 fans in push/pull as well as 3x Phanteks T30 in pull. I tested at 1000, 1400, 1800 RPM plus 2400 and 3000 for the Phanteks fans. The Swiftech is always cooler - beyond margin of error - than the Arctic on all 8 cores. The first time I mounted the Arctic, it was 4- 9 degrees hotter than the Swiftech. I then re-pasted and re-mounted and got the original improvements I listed which still lag behind the Swiftech.
> 
> I thought the Arctic being 8 or so years newer + 16 FPI instead of 13 + 38 mm thick instead of 28 would easily beat the Swiftech - not just at least tie the Swiftech but actually beat it; boy was I wrong. I never thought the Swiftch's pump + copper rad would _even more_ than make up for the Arctic's denser + thicker rad. Either that or the Swiftech's cold plate is way better or I just suck at mounting the Arctic. Either way, I'm very shocked.
> 
> Lesson of the day. The only AIOs I'll consider from now on are ones with "proper" pumps - let's say minimum of 200 L/hr (0.88 gal/min) or 300 L/hr (1.32 gal/min) or something around there - and copper rads. I don't care what the reviews say, I don't care what the "TechTubers" say. There's no way the Swiftech falls behind so many AIOs in other reviews. Even Gamers Nexus, which I trust and like a lot, has the Swiftech behind the Arcitc and the EK AIOs (and probably others).
> 
> 
> I forgot to thank you for this info. Thanks!


Enjoy. BTW, I replaced the crappy IN and OUT plastic fittings on the unit with 90degree 3/8-5/8 Bitspower fittings and my pump is not a 35X, I bought MCP50X from Swiftech a while ago.


----------



## spin5000

KillerBee33 said:


> Enjoy. BTW, I replaced the crappy IN and OUT plastic fittings on the unit with 90degree 3/8-5/8 Bitspower fittings and my pump is not a 35X, I bought MCP50X from Swiftech a while ago.


I wish I could enjoy the Swiftech still. The only reason I bought another AIO is because I moved to a Z690. Swiftech H320 isn't compatible with LGA 1700


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> I wish I could enjoy the Swiftech still. The only reason I bought another AIO is because I moved to a Z690. Swiftech H320 isn't compatible with LGA 1700


Heh, I also don't use Original APOGEE block, replaced that with Phanteks C350i. I got extra 360 radiator and a GPU in my loop, all running of the Swiftech unit.


----------



## vf-

spin5000 said:


> The Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 is always 2-5 degrees hotter than the original Swiftech H320 - depending on which CPU core.
> 
> I tested both AIOs in a top-exhaust setup with 6x Arctic P12 fans in push/pull as well as 3x Phanteks T30 in pull. I tested at 1000, 1400, 1800 RPM plus 2400 and 3000 for the Phanteks fans. The Swiftech is always cooler - beyond margin of error - than the Arctic on all 8 cores. The first time I mounted the Arctic, it was 4- 9 degrees hotter than the Swiftech. I then re-pasted and re-mounted and got the original improvements I listed which still lag behind the Swiftech.
> 
> I thought the Arctic being 8 or so years newer + 16 FPI instead of 13 + 38 mm thick instead of 28 would easily beat the Swiftech - not just at least tie the Swiftech but actually beat it; boy was I wrong. I never thought the Swiftch's pump + copper rad would _even more_ than make up for the Arctic's denser + thicker rad. Either that or the Swiftech's cold plate is way better or I just suck at mounting the Arctic. Either way, I'm very shocked.
> 
> Lesson of the day. The only AIOs I'll consider from now on are ones with "proper" pumps - let's say minimum of 200 L/hr (0.88 gal/min) or 300 L/hr (1.32 gal/min) or something around there - and copper rads. I don't care what the reviews say, I don't care what the "TechTubers" say. There's no way the Swiftech falls behind so many AIOs in other reviews. Even Gamers Nexus, which I trust and like a lot, has the Swiftech behind the Arcitc and the EK AIOs (and probably others).
> 
> 
> I forgot to thank you for this info. Thanks!


What? AIOs can pump 200 - 300L/h? I've never heard anyone say that. Most has pumps 1400 - 2800rpm.


----------



## spin5000

vf- said:


> What? AIOs can pump 200 - 300L/h? I've never heard anyone say that. Most has pumps 1400 - 2800rpm.


It's not just about RPMs though. Swiftech's goes to 3000 RPM and apparently it's in the 200 - 300 L/hr range. Another is the Alphacool Eisbaer Extreme. Not the more common models which have a 75 L/hr pump, just the "Extreme" model as far as I'm aware. They spec it as follows: 2100 rpm 120l/h | 2. 2700 rpm 140l/h | 3. 3330 rpm 280l/h | 4. 3950 rpm 320l/h | 5. 4350 rpm 340l/h.

Can't just go by RPM but having said that, some of the Fractal AIOs have max pump speeds of over 4000 RPM so I wonder if their flow rates are at least in the 200 - 300 L/hr range.


----------



## vf-

How are the noise levels or whine from them?


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> The Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 is always 2-5 degrees hotter than the original Swiftech H320 - depending on which CPU core.
> 
> I tested both AIOs in a top-exhaust setup with 6x Arctic P12 fans in push/pull as well as 3x Phanteks T30 in pull. I tested at 1000, 1400, 1800 RPM plus 2400 and 3000 for the Phanteks fans. The Swiftech is always cooler - beyond margin of error - than the Arctic on all 8 cores. The first time I mounted the Arctic, it was 4- 9 degrees hotter than the Swiftech. I then re-pasted and re-mounted and got the original improvements I listed which still lag behind the Swiftech.
> 
> I thought the Arctic being 8 or so years newer + 16 FPI instead of 13 + 38 mm thick instead of 28 would easily beat the Swiftech - not just at least tie the Swiftech but actually beat it; boy was I wrong. I never thought the Swiftch's pump + copper rad would _even more_ than make up for the Arctic's denser + thicker rad. Either that or the Swiftech's cold plate is way better or I just suck at mounting the Arctic. Either way, I'm very shocked.
> 
> Lesson of the day. The only AIOs I'll consider from now on are ones with "proper" pumps - let's say minimum of 200 L/hr (0.88 gal/min) or 300 L/hr (1.32 gal/min) or something around there - and copper rads. I don't care what the reviews say, I don't care what the "TechTubers" say. There's no way the Swiftech falls behind so many AIOs in other reviews. Even Gamers Nexus, which I trust and like a lot, has the Swiftech behind the Arcitc and the EK AIOs (and probably others).
> 
> 
> I forgot to thank you for this info. Thanks!


As you recall, I pointed out in another thread that you were fixated on rad fpi and thickness rather than materials and actual performance. This is exactly what I was referring to. Granted, a portion of the gain is likely due to the Swiftech having better flow rate - how much better, nobody knows since CLC mfg won't publish flow rates.

Unfortunately, I was one of those "tech tubers" at one time when the site I was writing for insisted on YT vids to go with written reviews. I can assure you that the Swiftech mopped the floor with the CLCs that were around at the time when I tested it. Given that advances in CLCs hasn't been much, I had no doubt that would still hold true. BTW - my review was published with accurate test results and resulted in a lot of backlash for the site from certain CLC vendors no longer wanting us to review their products. The big exception was Cooler Master, who immediately shipped me a Nepton to review with comparisons to the Asetek/CoolIt/Silverstone units that were around at the time. They knew what they had in comparison, and it's a shame that the patent trolling buried that series.


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> It's not just about RPMs though. Swiftech's goes to 3000 RPM and apparently it's in the 200 - 300 L/hr range. Another is the Alphacool Eisbaer Extreme. Not the more common models which have a 75 L/hr pump, just the "Extreme" model as far as I'm aware. They spec it as follows: 2100 rpm 120l/h | 2. 2700 rpm 140l/h | 3. 3330 rpm 280l/h | 4. 3950 rpm 320l/h | 5. 4350 rpm 340l/h.
> 
> Can't just go by RPM but having said that, some of the Fractal AIOs have max pump speeds of over 4000 RPM so I wonder if their flow rates are at least in the 200 - 300 L/hr range.


Actually.....the Swiftech tops out at 660 l/hr. The head pressure being up at 2.8mm is helping substantially, as well.











vf- said:


> How are the noise levels or whine from them?


The Swiftech pumps are very quiet. It's a shame Thermalbench is down, VSG had a great noise graph of the pump on there. It's similar to a D5 at like speeds.


----------



## spin5000

ciarlatano said:


> As you recall, I pointed out in another thread that you were fixated on rad fpi and thickness rather than materials and actual performance. This is exactly what I was referring to. Granted, a portion of the gain is likely due to the Swiftech having better flow rate - how much better, nobody knows since CLC mfg won't publish flow rates.
> 
> Unfortunately, I was one of those "tech tubers" at one time when the site I was writing for insisted on YT vids to go with written reviews. I can assure you that the Swiftech mopped the floor with the CLCs that were around at the time when I tested it. Given that advances in CLCs hasn't been much, I had no doubt that would still hold true. BTW - my review was published with accurate test results and resulted in a lot of backlash for the site from certain CLC vendors no longer wanting us to review their products. The big exception was Cooler Master, who immediately shipped me a Nepton to review with comparisons to the Asetek/CoolIt/Silverstone units that were around at the time. They knew what they had in comparison, and it's a shame that the patent trolling buried that series.


+1
Mad respect to Swiftech and mad disrespect to Asetek (for their patent trolling).

I didn't know how spoiled I was with the Swiftech AIO. I knew at the time of release like 8 years ago that it was pretty much the be-all, end-all AIO on the marketplace but then that market exploded with so many products and what I thought would have been major advancements over the past 10-ish years. I would have never of expected the Swiftech to even tie the supposed "best" AIO on the market today (Arctic Freezer), let alone beat it yet that's exactly what happened.

I'm only keeping the ALF II 360 temporarily so I can use my LGA 1700 (12900KS and then maybe 13700K / 13900K) for now. As soon as the EK block / pump / res combo comes out - EK said very late 2022 or very early 2023 - I'm moving over to that and creating my own custom "AIO" with the Phanteks T30s (currently on the ALF) and the HWLabs Nemesis GTR. Or, I'll use a Swiftech Apogee Drive II if I can find one. I don't want to go with the Barrows because I don't think it has a long warranty and I also can't find enough long-term reviews.


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> As soon as the EK block / pump / res combo comes out - EK said very late 2022 or very early 2023 - I'm moving over to that and creating my own custom "AIO".


Not to badmouth EK but join this FB Page to see all the horrors people post especially with newer products.








EK Water Blocks International Fan Page | Facebook


‏‎Please read before posting. This is a special group by and for EK fans! Don't hesitate to show what you did with your EK items :) Got problems with an EK product? Please open an RMA ticket at...




www.facebook.com




Edit: Not sure why the link came out like this but it should take you to the Group Page


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> +1
> Mad respect to Swiftech and mad disrespect to Asetek (for their patent trolling).
> 
> I didn't know how spoiled I was with the Swiftech AIO. I knew at the time of release like 8 years ago that it was pretty much the be-all, end-all AIO on the marketplace but then that market exploded with so many products and what I thought would have been major advancements over the past 10-ish years. I would have never of expected the Swiftech to even tie the supposed "best" AIO on the market today (Arctic Freezer), let alone beat it yet that's exactly what happened.
> 
> I'm only keeping the ALF II 360 temporarily so I can use my LGA 1700 (12900KS and then maybe 13700K / 13900K) for now. As soon as the EK block / pump / res combo comes out - EK said very late 2022 or very early 2023 - I'm moving over to that and creating my own custom "AIO" with the Phanteks T30s (currently on the ALF) and the HWLabs Nemesis GTR. Or, I'll use a Swiftech Apogee Drive II if I can find one. I don't want to go with the Barrows because I don't think it has a long warranty and I also can't find enough long-term reviews.


Don't bother looking for an Apogee Drive II, it's not worth it. What you have now in the H320 is an upgrade to that unit. It was innovative at the time, but the block itself isn't very good by today's standards.



KillerBee33 said:


> Not to badmouth EK but join this FB Page to see all the horrors people post especially with newer products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Water Blocks International Fan Page | Facebook
> 
> 
> ‏‎Please read before posting. This is a special group by and for EK fans! Don't hesitate to show what you did with your EK items :) Got problems with an EK product? Please open an RMA ticket at...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.facebook.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Not sure why the link came out like this but it should take you to the Group Page


That would be my concern, also. EK's shortcuts in design, lack of QC and penny pinching in mfg has made for some really flawed attempts in the AiO space.


----------



## spin5000

ciarlatano said:


> Don't bother looking for an Apogee Drive II, it's not worth it. What you have now in the H320 is an upgrade to that unit. It was innovative at the time, but the block itself isn't very good by today's standards.
> 
> 
> 
> That would be my concern, also. EK's shortcuts in design, lack of QC and penny pinching in mfg has made for some really flawed attempts in the AiO space.


I'm such an idiot! If I already have a Swiftech H320, and if it's made to be expandable, then can't I just disconnect the H320 block / pump from the Swifech rad and hook it up to my HWLabs Nemesis GTR rad and be done with it?!!! Simple as that????!!!

The Swiftech block and pump is every thing I need: Copper, very high flowing (compared to most other block / pump combos), extremely long lasting & reliable, and it even has the same type of tubing I would be purchasing anyway: Tygon industrial A-60-G (Norprene).


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> I'm such an idiot! If I already have a Swiftech H320, and if it's made to be expandable, then can't I just disconnect the H320 block / pump from the Swifech rad and hook it up to my HWLabs Nemesis GTR rad and be done with it?!!! Simple as that????!!!
> 
> The Swiftech block and pump is every thing I need: Copper, very high flowing (compared to most other block / pump combos), extremely long lasting & reliable, and it even has the same type of tubing I would be purchasing anyway: Tygon industrial A-60-G (Norprene).


not clear...Are you asking if you can extend Swiftech unit to a CPU+GPU loop like this?


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> I'm such an idiot! If I already have a Swiftech H320, and if it's made to be expandable, then can't I just disconnect the H320 block / pump from the Swifech rad and hook it up to my HWLabs Nemesis GTR rad and be done with it?!!! Simple as that????!!!
> 
> The Swiftech block and pump is every thing I need: Copper, very high flowing (compared to most other block / pump combos), extremely long lasting & reliable, and it even has the same type of tubing I would be purchasing anyway: Tygon industrial A-60-G (Norprene).


You absolutely could. But I was under the impression that there is no LGA 1700 mount available. Also, if you were going to do that, maybe think about replacing the pump with an MCP50X (I _think _you can do that withe the original....it's been so long since I've worked on one) just because the pump really is getting up there in age.


----------



## spin5000

ciarlatano said:


> You absolutely could. But I was under the impression that there is no LGA 1700 mount available. Also, if you were going to do that, maybe think about replacing the pump with an MCP50X (I _think _you can do that withe the original....it's been so long since I've worked on one) just because the pump really is getting up there in age.


Ya, I indeed am an idiot. I forgot about the LGA 1700 part. That's the whole reason why I couldn't use the original H320 anymore in the first place, lol. I got excited and totally forgot about the whole LGA 1700 thing.


----------



## spin5000

Can someone please tell me if the original Swiftech H220 / H320 works with AMD AM4 CPUs?

Checking the manual doesn't work because AM4 was not out yet at the time so it wouldn't be written in the manual whether it works or not just like how Intel Rocket Lake's socket is not written in the manual yet it's 100% compatible...


----------



## ciarlatano

spin5000 said:


> Can someone please tell me if the original Swiftech H220 / H320 works with AMD AM4 CPUs?
> 
> Checking the manual doesn't work because AM4 was not out yet at the time so it wouldn't be written in the manual whether it works or not just like how Intel Rocket Lake's socket is not written in the manual yet it's 100% compatible...


That would depend on your definition of "works with". The H220/320 would have no issue with cooling an AM4, but you would have to devise your own mounting kit. To my knowledge a kit was never made for this, and none is shown on the Swiftech site currently.


----------



## KillerBee33

spin5000 said:


> Can someone please tell me if the original Swiftech H220 / H320 works with AMD AM4 CPUs?
> 
> Checking the manual doesn't work because AM4 was not out yet at the time so it wouldn't be written in the manual whether it works or not just like how Intel Rocket Lake's socket is not written in the manual yet it's 100% compatible...


Get any AMD block you like, drain the Unit, swap out the blocks, refill and enjoy.


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> Get any AMD block you like, drain the Unit, swap out the blocks, refill and enjoy.


Not quite that simple. It's the original H220 with the pump built into the block, not the X like you have. You could conceivably add a block, though. Use the block/pump simply as a pump.


----------



## KillerBee33

ciarlatano said:


> Not quite that simple. It's the original H220 with the pump built into the block, not the X like you have. You could conceivably add a block, though. Use the block/pump simply as a pump.


Oh. My bad. I only had two units from Swiftech-- H320 X2 and Drive X3 over 8 years.


----------



## KillerBee33

"Need advice" 1 or 2 or ?


----------



## KillerBee33

KillerBee33 said:


> "Need advice" 1 or 2 or ?


GPU is vertical atm, and will stay that way


----------



## ciarlatano

KillerBee33 said:


> "Need advice" 1 or 2 or ?
> View attachment 2580141


If you go with #1 and face the drain to the back of the case or side, you would be able to lay the case on it's back and it would drain easily. #2 would be a royal pain to drain.


----------

